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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/19827-8.txt b/19827-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..69c465c --- /dev/null +++ b/19827-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9229 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 13, No. 80, +June, 1864, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 13, No. 80, June, 1864 + +Author: Various + +Release Date: November 16, 2006 [EBook #19827] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY *** + + + + +Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Josephine Paolucci and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by Cornell University Digital Collections). + + + + + + + + + + + +THE + +ATLANTIC MONTHLY. + +A MAGAZINE OF LITERATURE, ART, AND POLITICS. + +VOL. XIII.--JUNE, 1864.--NO. LXXX. + +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by TICKNOR +AND FIELDS, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the +District of Massachusetts. + + + + +Transcriber's Note: Minor typos have been corrected. Footnotes have been +moved to the end of the article. + + + + +A TALK ABOUT GUIDES. + + +Talk about guides! Let Independence, Self-Conceit, and Go-ahead +undervalue them, if they will; but I, Sola Foemina, (for that is the +name I go by,) of Ignorance, (the place I hail from,) casting up my +unbalanced accounts, (with a view to settling,) find a large credit due +to this class of individuals, which (though I have not the means to +meet) I have no intention to repudiate. + +Now and then, to be sure, I, S. F., have been reminded in my journeyings +of poor dear E., whose lively spirit was so chafed by the exactions made +upon his purse and his temper at the hands of this imperturbable race, +that at last he turned, like a stag at bay, and vented all his wrath in +the face of a startled old woman by the abrupt and emphatic query, +"What'll you take to clear out?" + +Still, dogmatic and prosing as they sometimes proved, my experience on +the whole was favorable; and from the motherly old portress of the +English church at Honeybourne, who fed me with bread and butter under +her cottage-roof, and sent me away laden with garden-flowers and a +blessing, to faithful Michel, who held me over the blue fissures of the +glaciers that I might get a glimpse of their secret waterfalls, who +gathered violets for me on the margin of the icy sea, and, when I had +carelessly dropped them by the way, treasured up the faded things to +restore them to me at nightfall,--from the aged woman, with her "Good +bye till we meet in heaven," to the rough mountaineer, with his hearty +hand-pressure and God-speed at parting, I would not willingly lose one +link out of the chain of such fast friends which stretched along my way. + +There is Warwick Castle,--a written history, no doubt, to scholars, a +mine of wealth to antiquaries and architects; but how incomplete would +my associations be with the spot, were you banished from the picture, my +sturdy friend, fit type of the female retainers of the household of the +King-Maker, who, stationed within the ivied approach to the castle, +presided at the brazen porridge-pot, once holding food enough to satisfy +ten score of men, now empty, save for the volume of sound which stuns +the ear when you strike it with your ponderous iron bar! Can I ever +forget the scene of laughter and riot, when you installed me within the +capacious vessel, dubbed me "Countess Guy, of the Porridge-Pot," and, +the rest of my party having been induced to accept the hospitalities of +the place, and mount my triumphal car, declared your intention to light +a fire beneath and have the finest stew in all England? The castle is a +stern place, perhaps; but how can I ever think it grim, with such a +jolly old flatterer as you stationed at its portal? + +And here, in my blundering way, I have stumbled on the secret spring of +my whole subject; so I may as well make a merit of confession, and +acknowledge frankly that the trap in which these wary guides entangled +my affections was generally neither more nor less than a net of silken +flattery. Your good guide, your dear guide, your pet guide, whom +Neighbor So-and-so, going abroad, must look up immediately on his +arrival, this invaluable creature, depend upon it, is an arrant +flatterer. He does not go out of his way for you; he does not tell it +you to your face; but, somehow or other, (if he knows his vocation,) he +makes you believe, that, of all the travellers he ever escorted, (and he +has been a travellers' escort from his infancy,) you are the first, the +only one, in whose behalf duty became a privilege. + +Do you suppose I put faith in Michel, when, on my second Alpine +excursion, this companion of the previous day's peril placed himself in +close proximity to my mule, took the bridle with an air of satisfaction, +and whispered with an insinuating smile, "I go with _you_ to-day; see, +there is another guide for Mademoiselle"? He was mistaken. It was my +young friend whom he was, on this occasion, destined to escort over the +mountain. He was as devoted to her as if she had been the apple of his +eye. Whether I followed next in the file, brought up the rear, or was +dashed over the precipice, I doubt if he looked behind him to discover. +Was I fool enough, then, to trust his professions? I acknowledge the +weakness. I was but a novice, he a practised courtier in the guise of a +mountaineer. To make a clean breast of it, I even suspect that his +self-gratulatory whisper is still ringing in my ear, for I find that +Mademoiselle and I are rivals in our devotion to Michel. + +And Ann Harris, of Honeybourne, widow, portress of the ancient +village-church, surrounded by villagers' graves, approached by four +foot-paths over four stiles, perfect model of all the churches in all +the novels of English literature,--was it partiality for me, ancient +matron, or an eye to a silver sixpence, which made you, and makes you +still, the heroine of my day of romance? At any rate, I shall never +cease to invoke a blessing on that immaculate railway-company which +decoyed me from London into the heart of England, and, with a coolness +unexampled in the new districts of Iowa, dropped me at the sweetest nook +under the sun, there to wait three hours for the train which should have +taken me at once to Stratford,--three golden hours, in which I might +bask like a bee in a Honeybourne beyond my hopes. + +Not that my Honeybourne was precisely the spot where the railway-train +left me standing deserted and alone,--alone save for a Stratford +furniture-dealer, who, unceremoniously set down in the midst of his new +stock of tables and chairs, and with nothing else in sight but a +platform, a shed, and me, looked at the last-mentioned object for +sympathy, while he cursed the departing train and swore the usual oath +of vengeance, namely, that he would never travel that road again. + +_He_ got red with passion and cursed the road; _I_ stared round me and +kept cool. Was I more philosophical than he? No, but there was this +difference: he was bent on business, I on pleasure; he was in a hurry, I +could afford to wait. + +Three hours,--and only a platform, a shed, and an infuriated +furniture-dealer to keep me company! This was the Honeybourne station, +but not Honeybourne. I found a railway-official hard by, had my baggage +stowed in the shed, crossed the platform, looked at my watch to make +sure of the time, then struck out into the open country. Through shady +lanes, over stiles, across the fields, on I went, in the direction +pointed out to me by two laborers whom I met at starting. The sweet +white may smiled at me from the hedges; the great sober eyes of the +cattle at pasture reflected my sense of contentment; the nonchalant +English sheep showed no signs of disturbance at my approach (unlike the +American species, which invariably take to their heels); the children +set to watch them lifted their heads from the long grass and looked +lazily after me, never doubting my right to tread the well-worn +foot-path with which every green field beguiled me on. I came out in the +vegetable-garden of a rustic cottage, one of some dozen thatched-roofed +dwellings, which, with the church and simple parsonage, constituted +sweet Honeybourne. "Oh that it were the bourne from which no traveller +returns!" was the thought of my heart, as, with a dreamy sense of +longings fulfilled, I wandered through the miniature village, across it, +around it, beyond it, and back to it again, as a bee saturated with +sweets floats round the hive. + +And now to my queen-bee, Ann Harris, aforesaid! + +"All the way from Lunnon! Alone, and such a distance! Bless my heart!" +cried the primitive Ann, with hands and eyes uplifted. "Come in and rest +you, and have something to eat! I have bread and butter, sweet and good, +and will boil the kettle and make you a cup of tea, if you say so." + +I had already made the circuit of the church, strolled among the ancient +gravestones, crossed the moss-covered bridge, threaded the paths beneath +the hawthorn, had a vision of boundless beauty, drunk in the silence, +and dreamed out my dream of solitude, independence, and the joy of being +no one but myself knew where. Could I do better than accept this +invitation to enter the humble cottage, with the prospect of an +admittance also to an old woman's heart? Did I win the latter? or did I +only fancy it? Did the motherly creature believe me lost? or was her +astonishment only feigned? Was she really, despite her poverty, ready to +share her last crust with a stranger? or was the benignant glance which +gave me in my loneliness the sense of adoption merely an eye to +self-interest? + +Dear old soul! One of us, at least, was simple-hearted and true,--either +she in her innocent professions, or I in my silly credulity. I have +faith that it was she. At all events, I do so cherish the memory of her +kindness, that, so far from treasuring the notion of the silver +sixpence, I hereby pledge myself, that, if ever the reminiscence I am +penning should be worth half as much to me in gold as it is in memory, I +will send Ann Harris at least one shining guinea, as a token how +willingly I would go shares with her in something. + +And the guinea would not come amiss, for Ann was poor; her clay-floored +cottage boasted only its exquisite neatness, her furniture was of the +humblest, her dress the cheapest. She was too old for hard work; her +duties at the little church were light,--the profits, I fear, were +lighter; for that visitors to the remote sanctuary were rare her +reception of me was sufficient proof. As she guided me through the +church, I asked her if it was well attended. She shook her head sadly, +and, pointing in the direction of a neighboring village, answered,-- + +"Most of 'em go to chapel, yonder,--the more's the pity." + +She told me that she had no provision for the coming winter, and feared +she must go to the Union. (It was not our own, then prosperous and +unbroken, Union, to which she dreaded emigrating.) She merely meant the +work-house; and as she spoke, her face wore a shadow that still clouds +my recollections of Honeybourne. I do not know if her fears were +realized,--if her cottage is forsaken,--if she dwells among paupers, or +sleeps in the village church-yard; but I cannot think of her as lonely +or poor or dead. Her saintly face told of blessed communion; I know that +she was rich in faith and hope; and were I assured that her spirit had +left the flesh, I should only picture her to myself standing erect at +heaven's doorway, welcoming strangers with the same serenity with which +she said to me at parting,--"I shall meet you _there_." + +She offered me a farewell gift of flowers from her garden. It was a +beautiful cottage-garden, and many of the flowers were brilliant and +even rare, giving proof of careful, if not scientific culture. Still I +hesitated. My hands were full of sweet may, red campion, and other +native field-blossoms, which had introduced themselves to me +anonymously. They were the children of the green sod which I had been +treading so lightly on my way to the village; and, in the quiet of my +ramble, they had seemed to me like whispers from Him who made them, and +with whom I had never felt so utterly alone. I could not bear to see +them displaced by Ann's garden-belles, tempting as the latter would have +been at any other moment. She saw my indifference to her offer. I knew +she saw it working in my face. I attempted to apologize for my +preference, but she did not understand me; so I blurted out my thought, +awkwardly enough, saying,-- + +"Yours are beautiful; but God made these, you know,--and--and--I like +them best." + +She looked down upon me gravely, pityingly, smiling, too, with a +tenderness which was neither grave nor pitying. I have seen +long-visioned people look with just that expression at the eyes of the +short-sighted, on the latter's confessing their inability to detect an +object at no great distance. + +"_He made them all_," she said; and her words were an ascription of +praise. + +They come to me often now. They bid me look farther and see more. They +tell me how _mine_ and _thine_ have no place in this world of _His_. +False distinctions shrink away from the light of the old woman's clearer +faith; I see how the ablest workers are but instruments in higher +hands,--how science, culture, inspiration itself, are but gifts to be +laid on His altar. + +I need scarcely say that I at once found room for Ann's flowers in my +hand, as for her lesson in my heart. Some of the former are pressed and +laid away as a sacred memento, and something of the latter is treasured +up among good seed sown by the way-side. + +I would gladly have lingered longer in this little nook, into which I +seemed to have been drifted by chance; but my time was up,--I had a mile +or two to walk over the fields in the direction of the railway,--my +friends were to meet me at Stratford. Should I miss the train this time, +my philosophy might fail me as signally as that of the above-mentioned +furniture-dealer failed him. + +A few hours after I bade my old friend farewell, I was at my +destination. Millions have shared my experiences at the tomb of the +great poet. Everybody is familiar with William Shakspeare and +Stratford-on-Avon, but I hug the thought that nobody but I knows +anything about Ann Harris and Honeybourne. + + * * * * * + +I have dwelt upon an occasion in which the humble office of a guide +resulted in companionship, friendship, instruction. A brief sojourn in +Alpine regions has furnished me with a similar reminiscence. + +We were setting forth for a day's ride across the Tête-Noire. Our party +consisted of five, and we had two guides. Our baggage, which was for the +most part light, was strapped on the backs of the mules behind the +riders. One article, however, a square box of considerable proportions, +proved refractory, and, veering from side to side, refused to maintain +the even balance which, owing to the rough nature of the bridle-path, +was essential to the safety of both mule and rider. We were obliged to +halt again and again, that the box might be restrapped, always with +doubtful success. Each time that we drew up in line for this purpose we +were overtaken by a Swiss youth, who had perceived our dilemma, and who +hoped, by following us up closely, to make a job out of it. There was +but a limited knowledge of French among us, (the language in which the +youth spoke,) still, by aid of his vehement gestures, he made us +understand that he was ready, for a consideration, to accompany us on +our toilsome journey, and carry the box on his back. + +"Eight francs, Monsieur,--I will do it for eight francs!" But the box +was righted, his services seemed superfluous, and we moved on, +regardless of his beseeching looks. + +A fresh delay soon ensued, the boy came panting up, and this time it was +"Seven francs,"--nay, as we rode away from him, he frantically shouted, +"Six!" His prospects seemed hopeless, but destiny and perseverance were +on his side,--the box gave another alarming lurch,--the heated and +almost discouraged youth made one last appeal,-- + +"Four francs, Monsieur! I will do it for four francs!" and the day was +his. + +He was not a regular guide, appointed by Government and furnished with a +certificate, as is the law of the Alpine district for all who serve in +this responsible capacity. We had engaged him simply as a porter. Still, +the docile youth had no sooner strapped the box on his back than, seeing +that I was the only lady unprovided with an attendant, he drew my mule's +bridle through his arm, and quietly took me in charge. + +No matter how charming a travelling-party you belong to, the moment they +are all mounted and climbing a mountain, single file, you feel yourself +a unit in creation. Everybody has turned his back upon you, and you have +turned your back upon everybody. You are a solitary traveller. Are you +aghast at your own situation on the steep slope of a mule's back, with a +precipice above your head and your feet dangling over a gulf below? +There is no help for it. Imagine yourself a sack of meal, if you can, +and expect as little sympathy as would be accorded to that article. Are +you moved to a keen sense of the ridiculous, as a curve in the road +discloses the figures of your elongated party, unused to riding, and +rendered the more grotesque by their mountain-equipment? A laugh +unshared is no laugh at all, so you may as well smother it at once. Does +the scenery through which you are passing awaken emotions of sublimity? +It would be sacrilege to shout out your sentiments to the occupant of +the next mule in such tones as a watchman would employ to cry, "Fire!" +No,--if you are essentially a social creature, there is nothing for it +but to bottle up your sensibilities and await the opportunity for an +explosion when you reach your inn. + +Something like this result occurred, I remember, on the evening of that +very day, when Mademoiselle, who, under the charge of Michel, led the +van, met me at the hotel at Martigny, at which place she had of course +arrived a little in advance. We were not usually more demonstrative in +our manners than is customary among New-England women, but the moment I +could alight we rushed into each other's embrace, regardless of a crowd +of astonished porters and guides, mutually insisting, by way of apology, +that it seemed as if we had not met for a year. + +Having dwelt upon this peculiar isolation experienced by the Alpine +traveller, it may be conjectured, that, when the boy, Auguste, drew my +bridle through his arm, I felt very much as Robinson Crusoe did when he +was joined by his man Friday. Auguste and I soon became friends. He was +a large, round-faced, mild-eyed youth, who, the instant the excitement +of securing his employment was past, subsided into a soft, even pace +like that of a dog. Now and then, too, he looked up at the mule and me, +precisely as a dog, accompanying his master, looks up to see if all is +right. + +I did not talk to him at first. His mere presence was satisfaction +enough. After a while we grew more sociable. He spoke a French _patois_. +So did I. His was peculiar to the province,--mine wholly original,--but +both answered the purpose of communication, and so were satisfactory. +He had the essential characteristic of his profession,--he was one of +the oily-tongued tribe, simple as he seemed, and I the willing victim; +for I am confident that I straightened in my saddle, and talked more +glibly than ever in the language peculiar to myself, on the strength of +his _naïve_ surprise at learning the place of my nativity, and his +polite exclamation, "_De l'Amèrique! O! j'avais cru que vous étiez de +Paris_!" + +The conversation you hold with your guide has this advantage,--you can +suspend it at will. There are miles of travel, in crossing the +Tête-Noire, when, if your most sympathizing friend walked beside you, +the thought of both hearts would be, "Let all the earth keep silence!" +and in the absence of such unspoken sympathy, the next best thing is the +innocent gravity of an attendant hired for so many francs a day, and not +presuming to speak unless spoken to. + +But when these sublimer passages are passed, when the path skirts the +edge of the valley, when the giant mountains have retired a little and +you slacken the tense cord of emotion which for a while has held you +spell-bound, it is a relief to loosen the tongue also, and reassure +yourself with the sound of the human voice. Thus Auguste and I had +frequent dialogues. He told me something of his past life, which I do +not remember very well. I think its chief incident was his having been +drafted for the army, and having served his term. Of his future, +however, he spoke with an earnestness which has left its impression on +my mind. He said that the next winter he meant to go to Paris and seek a +service; and his perseverance in wringing employment out of us inclines +me to think that he fulfilled his intention. Savoy, to which province he +belonged, had just been annexed to France. A party of guides from +Chamouni had the day before succeeded, with difficulty, in planting the +imperial flag on the summit of Mont Blanc. Was it this which had +awakened the ambition of the young Savoyard to share the spoils of the +empire of which he had so suddenly become a member? Perhaps (I never +thought of it before, but perhaps) he was already seeking means for his +journey to the capital. Perhaps the price of his hard-won service was to +be the nucleus of his savings. Have I, then, aided your purpose, +Auguste? helped to transform you from a simple mountain-lad to a mere +link in a chain of street-sweepers, an artful official of a third-rate +billiard-saloon, or a roystering cab-driver with his perpetual entreaty +for an extra fee in the form of "_Quelque chose à boire_"? My mind +shrinks from the possibility, for I cannot bear to think of him as other +than he then seemed,--a child of Nature and of the truth. + +In the course of our day's journey we drew near a little village. I had +been chatting with Auguste and felt in a loquacious mood, but paused as +I found myself passing through the village,--in other words, sneaking +round the corner of one shabby hut, and straight through the farm-yard +of the next, and close by the windows of a third,--the three, and a few +other stray buildings, constituting the hamlet. As it seemed an +impertinence to follow such an intrusive, inquisitive little road at +all, we could, of course, do no less than maintain a dumb propriety in +the presence of the children and kitchen-utensils, but, as we left them +behind and struck across an open field, my eye fell on one of those +way-side shrines common in all Roman-Catholic districts. It was a +miniature arch of plastered or whitewashed stone, and contained, as +nearly as I could judge from the glimpse I had in passing, two coarse +dolls, intended to represent the Virgin and Child. + +"What is that, Auguste?" I asked, with feigned ignorance. + +"A place of worship," he answered; "the people come there to pray." + +"But what do they come _there_ for?" I continued. + +"_God is there_," he answered, with emphasis, pointing at the same time +to the gayly dressed puppets. + +"No, He is not," I replied. + +He turned round and looked at me defiantly. His mild face became that +of a fanatic, and I actually quailed beneath his angry eye, as he +retorted,-- + +"He _is_ there." + +My mistake flashed upon me, too, at the instant, and I hastened to +explain myself in the simplest manner my poor French would allow, +saying,-- + +_"Oui, Auguste, Il est là, c'est vrai; mais Il est là aussi!"_--and I +pointed to the snow-capped mountains on my right,--_"et là!"_--and I +waved my hand towards the deeply shadowed heights on the opposite side +of the valley. + +He caught my meaning as by an inspiration. His fierce frown melted +instantly into an intelligent smile. + +_"Il est partout!"_ exclaimed the youth, with enthusiasm, his childlike, +eager eyes seeking a response in mine. + +I nodded in affirmation of the truth. It was enough. Catholic and +Protestant had met on common ground,--we understood each other,--we were +reconciled. + +Has he carried his large faith with him into the great metropolis? and +have I kept mine unshaken in spite of the storm that is raging in my +native land? Armed in his simplicity only, he has gone to meet the gusts +of temptation; and I have lived to see the Republic, which I believed +inviolable as Mother Earth herself, tremble and totter, as one after +another of her rotten pillars has fallen away. God grant that we may +both, in this day of our peril, be able, as then, to realize that "_Il +est partout_"! + +During my short Alpine journey I held the office of paymaster for our +party, my election being due not so much to proficiency in the queer +dialect above alluded to as to courage in the use of it. It is always a +pleasant office to disburse the funds, but was never more so than when, +late at night, Michel and Auguste came to the hotel at Martigny to +receive the reward of their day's toil. Michel had his full dues in +money, and plenty of praise to boot; Auguste, evidently much to his +surprise, a trifle more than his minimum price. Each of them then +grasped my hand in his horny palm,--an unexpected salutation, but not a +harsh one, for each hand had a heart in it, or I believed it had, which +was all the same to me. They made the customary promise not to forget +me, but credulity must stop somewhere, and at this point I must confess +my easy faith gave out, and left me skeptical. + + * * * * * + +I have given the preference in order of narrative, as well as in memory, +to guides who proved competent, willing, and true, who, if they seasoned +the intercourse between us with a little encouragement to my +self-esteem, had nothing in them obsequious or timeserving, and who set +me a wholesome example of clear convictions and firmness in the +maintenance of right. But not only are the virtues of the race whom I +have chosen for a theme subjects of congratulation; even the +uncertainties and misfits of these frequently rusty keys to the past +excite a mirth that lightens the toil with which one rummages through +the corridors of time. It would be treason to tell the name of that +antique university-chapel where a certain wooden-headed verger was +betrayed into the absurdest error; it would be personal to give the name +of the waggish friend who made him his innocent butt; but the facts and +the joke claim no disguise. + +The solemn British beadle had been rehearsing the history of numerous +sarcophagi and monuments, dwelling with mingled pathos and indignation +upon the injuries which the chapel, its railings, and its statues had +sustained at the hands of that arch-destroyer and his soldiery who, in +their zeal for the new Commonwealth, trampled brutally upon the records +of past grandeur and royalty. + +"He stabled his 'osses 'ere! yes, 'ere,--in this wery chapel! ugh!" was +the wrathful exclamation of our guide; and as he pointed towards the +tablets without corners and the effigies lacking noses or feet, there +was a low muttering in his throat and a look at us intended to excite +sympathetic ire on our part. + +One only of our party responded to the look. + +"Let me see,--Cromwell was a terrible Catholic, wasn't he?" gravely +inquired our fellow-traveller, as if in this way, and this way only, +could the sacrilege be accounted for,--one blue eye, as he spoke, full +of sage earnestness, the other twinkling with fun. + +The stolid face of our guide now became a study. He had no instructions +for such an emergency as this. The question had made war with his poor +wits. For a moment they staggered, felt themselves defeated, and were +about to surrender. But, resolute Briton that he was, the old man soon +rallied his forces. True servant both of Church and State, he saw that +there was no consistent course for him but to consign the enemy of +royalty and the contemner of sacred monuments to the abominable Scarlet +Lady. He gave one appealing look at his interrogator, but the side of +the face turned towards him was immovable. It gave no positive +discouragement to an affirmative reply; it even feigned ignorance. +Seeking enlightenment, and taking heart of faith, the verger assented in +the words, "Y-e-e-e-s,--I be-e-e-lieve so!" Then, his courage rising as +he felt himself committed to the fact, he continued, with emphasis and a +dictatorial nodding of the head, "Yes,--yes, he _was_." + +Many and laughable are the instances of such perplexity and mistake +among the aged pieces of mechanism who have for years been sounding the +same tune to generations of unquestioning ears, and who, not having an +extra note in their gamut, can by no means bear to be played upon by +strange hands. Age has its exemptions and immunities, however; might +makes right, and one who has long been a dictator comes to be deemed an +infallible authority. So they whine on, and are oftener believed than +otherwise. As they constitute a class, and those whom I have to do with +are chiefly the exceptions, I will forbear to dwell on stereotyped +specimens, and turn to one so unlike the generality of her tribe, so +utterly lawless, so completely at variance with all her surroundings, +that I must beg leave to introduce her precisely as she introduced +herself. + + * * * * * + +There is an old place in England (there may be many such, but I know +there is one) which is consecrated to imagination, romance, and memory. +Abandoned by its owners as a residence, it is nevertheless maintained in +sufficient repair to prevent its walls from crumbling or its beauty of +outline from being marred, and stands forth a living epic, written in +stone and oak, and meriting a place among the classics of the land. + +The favorite of tourists, artists, and antiquaries, it can well dispense +with anything like an accurate description from a traveller who went +thither, not to study, but to muse; so, putting in a plea, beforehand, +for possible failures in observation and memory, I propose to myself +nothing more than a re-indulgence of the reverie which took possession +of me on my visit to Haddon Hall. + +We had spent the middle hours of the day at Chatsworth, that palace and +museum of modern art, and, with senses bewildered and eyes dazzled by +the magnificence of a ducal residence unparalleled, perhaps, in the +world for its wealth and culture, we had set off, in the latter part of +the afternoon, to view its antipodes. The circumstances and the hour +were not inappropriate. Sated with the most perfect display of luxury +and taste which the present age can boast, and somewhat weary with the +toil of sight-seeing, a six-mile drive, the gradual decline of the +summer day, the shadows gathering over the landscape, all acted as a +gentle narcotic, and were a fit preparative for our approach to that +old, deserted homestead, the first glimpse of which set my fancy +roaming, and carried me away into a world of dreams. + +Hitherto I had been the contented occupant of an old yellow coach, and +had been satisfied with the pace of two jaded post-horses. But, as I +crossed the drawbridge and climbed the steep hill which led to the +principal gateway, I found myself mounted on rapid wings, and whirling +through the centuries. Not that I was rushing on in advance of the age. +No,--the wings flapped backwards, they careered disdainfully over and +beyond the region of reality; as we flew, the present became merged in +the past, the actual gave place to the ideal. + +I am approaching a feudal fortress. The deep moat, the turreted walls, +the old gray towers, the lattice of my lady's bower, the sentry pacing +the battlements, the warder stationed at the gate, the severe exterior +of the grim pile, the smoking hospitality that reigns within,--I +recognize them all. Much that I have taken on faith from my childhood +has already been realized since I touched English shores,--why not this? +I climb the steep slope leading to the principal entrance, and knock at +the gate. Hark! is not that the sound of an answering horn? Is not that +distant rattling the clash of armor on the stones? Do I not hear the +voice of the stout baron mustering his retainers to bid me welcome? If +so, they are a long time about it,--for I have knocked once, twice, +three times, and there is no admittance. It is a severe process, too; +for, though the original gate, which may have been an iron portcullis +for aught I know, has given place to rough boards, the latter are not +particularly tender of my knuckles, and, though romance is romance, pain +is a fact. So I fold my airy wings for the present, and look about me +for a big stone to pound with. It is of no use. The old castle is deaf +and dumb. It neither hears nor answers. I creep along the edge of a +steep bank, pry round a corner of the building, gaze up at the high +Gothic windows, but see nothing like a practicable approach, and turn +back, discouraged. We take counsel together, I and my party, and at +length condescend to the belief that our best hope of obtaining an +entrance lies in a modern farm-house, at the foot of the eminence on +which the fortress stands. The farm-house is beyond the hail of our +voices, but our coachman, who is stationed there with his post-chaise, a +witness of our embarrassment, makes an encouraging sign. That the +farm-house bears some relation to the manor-house is suggested also by +the fact that its garden boasts a yew-tree cut into the form of a +peacock, and the book of heraldry says that the crest of the noble Earls +of Rutland, who occupied the hall for centuries, includes, among its +other belongings, "a peacock, in pride, proper." + +At last, just as our impatience had reached the verge of indignation, a +little figure emerged from the shadow of the farm-house, and sauntered +towards us. She was a pretty child, a true daughter of the Saxon race, +fair-haired, blue-eyed, and sunny-complexioned. She was the pink of +neatness, too, and it was evident that the time we had spent in waiting +had been passed by her at her toilet, for the folds were still fresh in +her snowy apron, and her golden hair glistened smoothly within the bars +of a net,--that unfailing net, sure emblem of British female +nationality. Her dainty little hat was trimmed with white ribbons, which +streamed behind her in the breeze, and, altogether, she was as complete +a picture as one would wish to see of youth, health, and +self-complacency. + +The nonchalance with which she approached us was a thing I have never +seen equalled. The independence of American children is proverbial; but +democratic institutions never produced anything more saucily +self-reliant than this little Briton. Without looking at us, or deigning +any apology for the great gate,--which, it seems, is a mere barricade, +not made to be opened,--she unlocked a side-postern, a rude door, +consisting of two or three rough boards, and made a motion for us to +enter. As we trod the time-worn pavement of the outer court, and gained +an open quadrangle round which various apartments were grouped, +imagination once more took possession of me, and I found myself peopling +the place with its original inmates. + +"Oh, how old and story-like!" I exclaimed to my companions. "Can you not +imagine knights on horseback prancing over these stones, and alighting +at the great hall-door beyond?" + +"Horses never came up here!" was the interruption which my suggestion +met from our practical little guide. "Horses couldn't climb those +stairs," she added, somewhat scornfully; and I then observed that I had +unconsciously ascended a rough, angular stairway, passable only to +foot-passengers. + +Knights on foot, then, my fancy at once substituted; and as the child, +now commencing her duties as show-woman, pointed out the servants' +offices, it was no difficult matter to picture the baron's retainers +lazily grouped around the stone walls of the low cells, for such the +apartments were, polishing their master's armor, or bousing over jugs of +ale, while handsome pages loitered about the court-yard, waiting the +summons of their lord, or the sound of their lady's silver whistle. +Fancy was an indispensable attendant in making the circuit of the +apartments, which surrounded at least three sides of this outer +quadrangle. Without her aid, they were simply remarkable for their +similarity, their vacancy, their unfitness for any modern purpose save +that of sheep-pens or lumber-rooms. Destitute of windows, so that the +sun and air found admittance only through the doorway, without +fireplaces, boarded floors, or plastered walls, they presented simply so +many square feet of space walled in by stone and mortar. But Fancy had +the power to enliven, furnish, people them. She suggested that their +very number was an indication of sociability, excitement, noise, and +mirth. Here, as in all feudal dwellings, the vast disproportion between +the space allotted to the dependents and that reserved for the lord of +the manor pointed to the time when each castle was a walled city, each +baronial hall the home of a crowd of petty retainers. In that long-ago, +what multitudes of voices had stirred the silence of the court-yard! The +bare walls of the apartments then were hung with breast-plate, spear, +and cross-bow,--trophies of war and the chase furnished decorations +suited to the taste of the occupants, and the hides of slaughtered +beasts carpeted the cold floor. Stirring tales of love and warfare +gathered little knots of listeners; wandering minstrels sought +hospitality, and repaid it in songs and rhymes; the beef and the bowl +went round; my lord's jester made his privileged way into every circle +in turn, and cracked his jokes at everybody's expense; and pretty Bess, +my lady's maid, peeped in at the open door, just in time to join in the +laugh against her lover. + +But Fancy only whispered, and another little attendant, whose name was +Fact, spoke out, and interrupted her. + +"Would you like to see the family-plate?" asked our guide, with the air +of one who felt she had really nothing worth showing, but was bound to +fulfil her task; and, entering one of the stone-walled apartments, she +pointed out a few enormous pewter platters, much dimmed by time and +neglect, leaning against the wall. + +What visions of Christmas feasts and wassails these relics might have +awakened in me, had I been left to gaze on them undisturbed, it is +impossible to say; but my mind was not permitted to follow its own bent. + +"There's nicer ones down at the house, all brightened up," said the +child, with simplicity, and looking disdain at the heirlooms she was +displaying. + +The estimate put by the little girl upon the comparative value of old +pewter dishes was suggestive. Whether the farm-house had robbed the +castle, or the castle the farm-house, became at once an open question, +and romance died in doubt. + +There could be no doubt, however, as to the genuineness of the rude old +dining-hall to which we were conducted next. The clumsy oaken table +still occupied the raised end of the apartment, where the baron feasted +his principal guests. The carved and panelled gallery whence his +minstrels cheered the banquet still stood firm on its massive pillars, +and the great stags'-antlers which surmounted it told of his skill as a +sportsman. What giant logs might once have burned in the wide +fireplaces, what sounds of revelry have gone up to the bare rafters! Our +guide's tongue went glibly as she pointed out these familiar objects, +and in the kitchen, buttery, and wine-vault, which were situated +conveniently near to the dining-hall, she seemed equally at home. It was +easy to recognize in the great stone chimneys, with their heavy hooks +and cross-bars, symptoms of banquets for which bullocks were roasted +whole and sheep and calves slain by the dozen; but we needed her +practised lips to suggest the uses of the huge stone chopping-blocks, +the deeply sunk troughs, the narrow gutters that crossed the stone +pavement, all illustrative of the primitive days when butcher and cook +wrought simultaneously, and this contracted cellar served at once for +slaughter-house and kitchen. Her little airy figure was in strange +contrast with these gloomy passages, these stones that had reeked with +blood and smoke. She glided before us into the mysterious depths of the +storehouse and ale-vault, as the new moon glides among damp, black +clouds; as she directed our attention to the oaken cupboards for bread +and cheese, the stone benches that once supported long rows of casks, +the little wicket in the doorway, through which the butler doled out +provisions to a waiting crowd of poor, she might well have been likened +to a freshly trimmed lamp, lighting up the dark, mysterious past. + +Freshly trimmed she unquestionably was, and by careful hands, but not a +voluntary light; for, the moment her explanations were finished, or our +curiosity satisfied, she sank into an indifference of speech and +attitude which proved her distaste to a place and a task utterly foreign +to her nature. Evidently, the hall which we had come so far to see, and +were so eager to explore, was at once the most familiar object of her +life and her most utter aversion. She had been drilled into a mechanical +knowledge of its history, but the place itself was to her what an old +grammar or spelling-book is to the unwilling pupil,--a thing to be +learned by rote, to be abused, contemned, escaped from. As we finished +our exploration of the lower floor, she probably breathed a sigh of +relief, feeling that the first chapter of her task was concluded. + +But a second and more difficult was yet to follow,--for we now ascended +a staircase of uncemented blocks of stone, crossed a passage, and found +ourselves in a long gallery or hall, the finest and best-preserved room +in the castle, the state-apartment and ball-room of the lords of the +manor. Our admiration at once broke forth in words of surprise and +delight. The architecture of this room was of much more recent date than +that portion of the building which we had already visited. It was +Elizabethan in its style, and one of the finest specimens of the period. +It was floored and wainscoted with oak; its frieze richly carved and +adorned with boars' heads, thistles, and roses; its ceiling, also of +oak, beautifully panelled and ornamented. There was a great square +recess in the middle of the gallery, and along one side of it a row of +bow-windows, through whose diamond panes a fine view was afforded of the +quaint old garden and balconies below. Here, doubtless, knights and +dames of the olden time had danced, coquetted, quarrelled, and been +reconciled. Within those deep embrasures courtiers in ruffs and plumes +had sued for ladies' favors, and plotted deep intrigues of state. What +stories these walls could tell, had they but tongues to speak! What +dreams did their very silence conjure up! + +Led by a more erratic spirit than that even of our child-guide, I am +afraid I lent an inattentive ear to her accurate statement of the +length, breadth, and height of the gallery in which we stood, the +precise date of its erection, the noble owners of the various +coats-of-arms carved above the doorway; for I remember only that she +seemed confident and well-informed, and recited her lesson faithfully +so long as she was suffered to follow the beaten track. How impossible +it was to extract anything beyond that from her we soon had proof. + +She ushered us next into my lord's parlor, which nearly adjoined the +gallery. This room was hung with arras, retained a few articles of +ancient furniture, had one or two pictures hanging on its walls, and +presented, altogether, a more habitable look than any other portion of +the castle. Our little maid had got on well with her description of this +room, had pointed out the portrait of Prince Arthur, once a resident at +the hall, had introduced that of Will Somers, my lord's jester, as +glibly as if Will were a playmate of her own, had deciphered for us the +excellent moral precept carved in old English beneath the royal arms, +"Drede God and honour the King," and was proceeding rapidly with an +array of measurements and dates, when I unluckily interrupted her,--I +think it was to ask some question about the tapestry. She looked at me +reproachfully, indignantly,--just as a child reciting the +multiplication-table before the School-Committee would look, if tripped +up between the numbers, or as a boy, taken advantage of in play, might +cry, "No fair!" She did not condescend to answer me, perhaps she could +not, but paused a moment, reflected, went deliberately back in her +recital, repeated the last few dates and phrases by way of gaining an +impetus, and then went on without faltering to the end of her prescribed +narration. + +Poor child! She had my sympathy, and has still. What a grudge she must +owe us tourists, even the tamest and most submissive of us, for whom she +is thus compelled to tax her unwilling memory! + +But if her spirits were damped, her good-humor threatened, it was for a +minute only. Upon completing our rapid survey of my lord's parlor, and +looking round for the guide who should conduct us farther, she had +become invisible. So we moved on without her, and commenced exploring a +narrow passage with a certain sense of bewilderment at its loneliness, +and the doubt whither it might lead, when, suddenly, we were startled by +a merry laugh, which seemed to ring through the air directly above our +heads. Was it a mocking spirit that haunted the place? or one of the old +figures on the tapestry, started into life? We looked up, and there, on +a rough platform of pine boards, projecting from the wall, stood our +Fenella. She was leaning over the shoulder of an artist-boy, who, seated +at his easel, was copying one of the Gorgon-heads that stood out on the +faded tapestry. She had dismissed us wholly from her thoughts, and, +giving play to her native fun and coquetry, was taunting the youth with +the slowness of his labors and the little progress he had made since she +last inspected his work. No wonder that she laughed at the taste of the +boy or his employer. Graver heads than hers might question the motive +which had set the painter such a model. Imagination suggested that some +elfin godmother must have prescribed the task as a condition of her +future favor. At all events, the malicious sprite now acting as overseer +felt a sense of triumph in this captive boy, perched against the wall, +and condemned, like herself, to reproduce the past and bring out in +fresh colors the staring eyes and mummied cheeks which would otherwise +soon be lost to memory. She certainly made the most of her opportunity +to taunt and tease him, for there was time for a laugh and a word of +raillery only, to which he seemed too shamefaced to respond, before she +was at our side again, gravely announcing, "My lady's chamber!"--and as +we looked around the apartment, whose furniture and decorations imparted +to it a superior air of neatness and refinement to that observable +elsewhere, she pointed out to us a private doorway, conducting to a +flight of steps, and affording an exit by which "my lady" had easy +access to the court-yard, and thence to the chapel where she performed +her devotions. + +"And what are the rooms opposite?" we asked, pointing to a long row of +windows on the second floor, on the opposite side of the quadrangle to +that of which we had now completed the inspection. + +"Those rooms are never shown," was the mysterious answer. + +"But you will show them to _us_" (spoken coaxingly). + +She shook her head, and sealed her lips, with an expression of +determination. + +"What is in them?" + +"Oh, nothing in particular." + +"Then we might see them." + +No encouragement, but, on the contrary, a resolute negative. + +A bribe was held out,--for, by this time, the child's air of mystery and +reserve had suggested a closet like that of Bluebeard, a chamber of +torture, or, at least, the proofs of some family-secret. + +We might as well have offered a two-shilling bribe to the Iron Duke +himself. The miniature castle-keeper was so firm and so non-committal +that she disarmed us of all our ingenuity, defeated all our tactics, and +we gave up the point. I have since learned that this quarter of the +mansion consists of a labyrinth of rooms, shut up because devoid of +interest, and containing only some old lumber. To have conducted us +through them would have been to disobey orders, and, worse still, +establish a precedent, from which the child might well shrink. It would +have doubled her arduous round of duty. It was policy, no less than +loyalty, which had inspired her. + +So, too, when we came to inspect the chapel. She mounted an old oak +chest in the rear of the little sanctuary, just beneath the solitary +window, whose quaint patterns in stained glass pointed to centuries long +past. Seated comfortably on this elevation, she rehearsed the history +and described the architecture of the most primitive place of worship I +ever saw,--or, if she left her post to point out some minuter detail, +she returned to it as jealously as a watch-dog to some spot which he is +specially appointed to guard. When our curiosity was otherwise +satisfied,--when we had even ascended to the rude confessional, which +was a mere excavation in the soft stone of the wall,--when we had put +our hands in the hollow, not unlike a swallow's nest in a mud-bank, once +the receptacle for holy water,--when we had descended the stony pathway, +for it was so worn as scarcely to merit the name of staircase,--when, +standing once more on the chapel-pavement, with minds excited by the +thought of those monkish days when priestcraft ruled the land,--our eyes +naturally fell on the old oak chest. What further revelation might not +this disclose! What sacred relics, what curious church-plate, what +vellum manuscript, might not be hidden beneath this heavy lid! Would she +rise and let us see? + +No,--she maintained her seat and her reserve with as much rigidity as on +the former occasion. Unconvinced by this experience, our imaginations +still ran riot. They shadowed forth every possible beauty and horror +which such a giant chest might contain. The story even of "The Bride of +the Mistletoe-Bough" might be verified, if we could but get a peep. At +last we prevailed. The child was persuaded to dismount, we lifted the +cover, and the chest was empty,--literally empty. + +Once more the plain fact of the present had swept away the cobwebs of +the past, the real had banished the ideal. While the child of to-day +sought only a comfortable rest from weariness, we had been seeking +myths. She looked on as indignant as a dethroned queen. We turned away a +little mortified, and a good deal disappointed. + +But the Fenella of the castle was not so very tired, after all. True, +she was tired of the old manor-house, tired of us, tired of her own dull +routine of duty; but there was a well-spring of freshness in her yet. +She moved languidly, to be sure, as she now led the way to the tower, +the only portion of the castle yet unvisited. Following her, we +ascended, first, to a bare upper room, a sort of anteroom, from which +the ascent to the tower commenced. It presented a solid inclosure of +stone, except on the western side, where it was dimly lighted through +one or two slits in the masonry. Turning my eyes in this direction, I +saw our little guide leaning against the stone framework of one of these +chinks in the wall. The beams of western sunlight came slanting in at +precisely the angle of her figure as she leaned back in infantile +repose; her white ribbons, her snowy apron, her golden hair caught and +held the sunshine, and the ray of light which relieved the gloom of the +gray old vault seemed to emanate from the child. + +One of our party addressed some question to her regarding the probable +design of the empty room in which we stood; but there was no +answer,--not even a responsive glance. Her eyes were fixed upon the +stone roof. She looked spell-bound. Before we could follow the direction +of her steady gaze, we were startled by the flapping of wings overhead, +and, still more, by the sudden rushing forward of the child with a loud +cry of "Shoo! shoo!" and with her hands stretched eagerly into the air. +Our presence had disturbed a swallow, which had found its way in through +one of the slits, and, perhaps, built a nest in some crevice of the +wall. The girl's languor was instantaneously dispelled by the discovery +and the excitement of pursuit. Here, now, was congenial sport. Hopeless +as was the attempt to catch the bird, the joy of frightening it was +sure; and our guide sprang wildly from side to side of the building, +uttering exciting exclamations, and making vain passes at the little +creature, which flew round high above her head, now and then settling in +some secure "coigne of vantage." In these intervals we endeavored to +catch the attention of the mischievous fowler, but her task had ended +with this tower-room, she had done with us, she had found an unexpected +source of sport, and was not to be deterred from an enjoyment which she +probably thought well-earned. With one eye following the least motion of +the bird, she informed us, at last, in reply to repeated inquiries, that +there was nothing to be told about the room we were in,--that it merely +led to the tower,--we could go up into the tower, if we wished. + +She must go with us and show us the way. + +"No," was the cool reply. She never went into the tower; she never went +any farther than this. + +Glancing at the dilapidated state of the stairs leading to the +successive stones of the tower, we were almost tempted to believe that +her instinct of self-preservation had reached its climax here,--that we +might break our necks, if we liked,--she preferred not to run the risk. +Resolved to satisfy our suspicions, we pressed the point, and, after +many inquiries and waiting a considerable time upon the motions of the +child and her new plaything, we got the brief and somewhat scornful +explanation,-- + +"What if some other party should come while I was away?" + +"We part here, then?" + +She nodded in assent, received the fee for her services without +acknowledgment, and saw us depart on our breakneck expedition with an +indifference equalled only by the nonchalance with which she had +admitted us on our arrival. The moment our backs were turned, she +resumed her play. + +After exploring the successive stories of the tower in safety, we +descended by way of the anteroom, but the bird and its pursuer had both +of them flown. We passed through a door she had previously pointed out, +and gained the garden as surreptitiously as did Dorothy Vernon, of old, +when, according to the tradition, she escaped through this same doorway +on the night of her sister's nuptials, and eloped with her lover, Mr. +(afterwards Sir John) Manners, who had long been haunting the +neighboring forest as an outlaw. We strolled through the ancient garden, +all ivied and moss-grown, admired the stone balustrade, which, +time-stained and mouldy, is still the student's favorite bit of +architecture, and at last made our way back to the farm-house,--I am +sure I do not remember how, for we were as deficient in a guide as on +our first attempt at entrance. Whether another party arrived while we +were in the tower, and were engrossing her attention,--whether she was +engaged in the more agreeable office of coquetting with the young +artist, or was still chasing the swallow from room to room of the +manor-house, I do not know. We saw her no more. She had barely +condescended to let us in, and now left us to find our way out as we +could. + +She cared nothing at all for us. All the interest we had manifested in +her (and it was considerable) had failed to awaken any emotion. We were +a stereotyped feature of the old hall; and the old hall, though she had +sprung from its root, and her life had been nourished by its strength, +was no part of herself,--was her antipathy. Still I never think of the +mansion, with all the romantic associations which cluster around it, but +the image of this child comes to break my reverie, as she did on the day +when it was first indulged. + +So we go to visit some royal oak, and bring away, as a memento, the +daisy which blooms at its foot; so we stand, as the reward of toil and +fatigue, upon an Alpine glacier, and the trophy and pledge of our visit +are the forget-me-not that grew on its margin. Thus youth and beauty +ever press on the footsteps of old age, and youth and beauty bear away +the palm. + +My faith in legendary lore is confirmed, when I call to mind the Gothic +fortress, with its strong defences against the enemy, its rude +suggestions of centuries of hospitality, its tower-lattices, whence +generation after generation of high-born maids waved signals to knightly +lovers, its stairways, worn slippery with the tread of heavy-mailed +warriors, its chapel-vault, where chivalrous lord and noble dame have +turned to dust. But there is a faith more precious than the faith in old +song and legend; and the golden-haired child, who flourishes so fresh +and fair amidst all this ruin and decay, stands forth to my mind as an +emblem of that power which renovates earth and defies time. Had she been +a pattern child, had her instructors (whoever they were) succeeded in +moulding her into a mere machine, she might not so vividly have roused +my interest; but there was something in her saucy independence, her +wayward freaks, her coquettish airs, her fiery chase after the swallow, +which--breaking in, as they did, upon the docility with which she +otherwise went through her round of duty--revivified the desolation of +the old hall with a sudden outburst of humanity. Everywhere else the +fountain of life seemed to have died out, but here it gushed forth a +living stream. + +We gaze down the centuries and see in them ignorance, error, warning, +and ruin at last. What hope for the race, then, if this were all? But it +is not all. The child's foot treading lightly over the graves is the +type of the _time-is_ triumphing over the _time-was_. Full of faults and +imperfections, she is still the daughter of Hope and Opportunity. She +has the past for her teacher, and the door of knowledge, repentance, and +faith stands open before her. Thus childhood is the rainbow of God's +providence, and the brightest feature of His covenant with men. + +Silence, desolation, and decay have set their seal upon old Haddon Hall, +but chance has set a child over them all, and the lesson her simple +presence teaches is worth more to me than all the Idyls of the King. + +And thus it is that I treasure up the memory of her among my catalogue +of guides; and so she did more for me than she promised, when she +undertook to lend me her light through the old Hall. + +If there are any who can live without thus borrowing, then let them +disparage guides. For the rest, the best guide is Humility. We have all +so many dark paths to tread from the cradle to the grave, that we need +to lay hold on all the helps we can. Groping blindly down the avenues +of Time, who is there that does not long to grasp some friendly hand, or +follow in the track of some traveller familiar with the way? + +For me, Experience is a staff on which I am glad to lean, Simplicity is +an unfailing leader where Learning might go astray. Trust is a lamp that +burns through the darkest night; and sometimes, when strong men are weak +and wise men foolish, strength and wisdom are given unto babes, and he +whom the counsels of the elders cannot save may walk the narrowest path +in safety with his hand in the hand of a little child. + +God grant me guides, then, to my journey's end! God guide us all, +whether we will or no! guide the nations, and make for them a way +through the dust, the turmoil, and the strife which Time has heaped in +their path, to the freshness and promise of the new birth! guide each +poor yearning soul through the darkness and doubt that overshadow it, as +it journeys on to the clear light of immortal day! + + + + +THE KALIF OF BALDACCA. + + + Into the city of Kambalu, + By the road that leadeth to Ispahan, + At the head of his dusty caravan, + Laden with treasure from realms afar, + Baldacca and Kelat and Kandahar, + Rode the great captain Alaù. + + The Khan from his palace-window gazed: + He saw in the thronging street beneath, + In the light of the setting sun, that blazed + Through the clouds of dust by the caravan raised, + The flash of harness and jewelled sheath, + And the shining scimitars of the guard, + And the weary camels that bared their teeth, + As they passed and passed through the gates unbarred + Into the shade of the palace-yard. + + Thus into the city of Kambalu + Rode the great captain Alaù; + And he stood before the Khan, and said,-- + "The enemies of my lord are dead; + All the Kalifs of all the West + Bow and obey his least behest; + The plains are dark with the mulberry-trees, + The weavers are busy in Samarcand, + The miners are sifting the golden sand, + The divers are plunging for pearls in the seas, + And peace and plenty are in the land. + + "Only Baldacca's Kalif alone + Rose in rebellion against thy throne: + His treasures are at thy palace-door, + With the swords and the shawls and the jewels he wore; + His body is dust o'er the Desert blown. + + "A mile outside of Baldacca's gate + I left my forces to lie in wait, + Concealed by forests and hillocks of sand, + And forward dashed with a handful of men + To lure the old tiger from his den + Into the ambush I had planned. + Ere we reached the town the alarm was spread, + For we heard the sound of gongs from within; + With clash of cymbals and warlike din + The gates swung wide; we turned and fled, + And the garrison sallied forth and pursued, + With the gray old Kalif at their head, + And above them the banner of Mahomed: + Thus we snared them all, and the town was subdued. + + "As in at the gate we rode, behold, + A tower that was called the Tower of Gold! + For there the Kalif had hidden his wealth, + Heaped and hoarded and piled on high, + Like sacks of wheat in a granary; + And there the old miser crept by stealth + To feel of the gold that gave him health, + To gaze and gloat with his hungry eye + On jewels that gleamed like a glow-worm's spark, + Or the eyes of a panther in the dark. + + "I said to the Kalif,--'Thou art old, + Thou hast no need of so much gold. + Thou shouldst not have heaped and hidden it here, + Till the breath of battle was hot and near, + But have sown through the land these useless hoards + To spring into shining blades of swords, + And keep thine honor sweet and clear. + These grains of gold are not grains of wheat; + These bars of silver thou canst not eat; + These jewels and pearls and precious stones + Cannot cure the aches in thy bones, + Nor keep the feet of Death one hour + From climbing the stairways of thy tower!' + + "Then into this dungeon I locked the drone, + And left him to feed there all alone + In the honey-cells of his golden hive: + Never a prayer, nor a cry, nor a groan + Was heard from those massive walls of stone, + Nor again was the Kalif seen alive! + + "When at last we unlocked the door, + We found him dead upon the floor; + The rings had dropped from his withered hands, + His teeth were like bones in the Desert sands; + Still clutching his treasures he had died; + And as he lay there, he appeared + A statue of gold with a silver beard, + His arms outstretched as if crucified." + + This is the story, strange and true, + That the great captain Alaù + Told to his brother the Tartar Khan, + When he rode that day into Kambalu + By the road that leadeth to Ispahan. + + + + +LIFE ON THE SEA ISLANDS. + + +PART II. + +A few days before Christmas, we were delighted at receiving a beautiful +Christmas Hymn from Whittier, written by request, especially for our +children. They learned it very easily, and enjoyed singing it. We showed +them the writer's picture, and told them he was a very good friend of +theirs, who felt the deepest interest in them, and had written this hymn +expressly for them to sing,--which made them very proud and happy. Early +Christmas morning, we were wakened by the people knocking at the doors +and windows, and shouting, "Merry Christmas!" After distributing some +little presents among them, we went to the church, which had been +decorated with holly, pine, cassena, mistletoe, and the hanging moss, +and had a very Christmas-like look. The children of our school assembled +there, and we gave them the nice, comfortable clothing, and the +picture-books, which had been kindly sent by some Philadelphia ladies. +There were at least a hundred and fifty children present. It was very +pleasant to see their happy, expectant little faces. To them, it was a +wonderful Christmas-Day,--such as they had never dreamed of before. +There was cheerful sunshine without, lighting up the beautiful +moss-drapery of the oaks, and looking in joyously through the open +windows; and there were bright faces and glad hearts within. The long, +dark night of the Past, with all its sorrows and its fears, was +forgotten; and for the Future,--the eyes of these freed children see no +clouds in it. It is full of sunlight, they think, and they trust in it, +perfectly. + +After the distribution of the gifts, the children were addressed by some +of the gentlemen present. They then sang Whittier's Hymn, the "John +Brown" song, and several of their own hymns, among them a very singular +one, commencing,-- + + "I wonder where my mudder gone; + Sing, O graveyard! + Graveyard ought to know me; + Ring, Jerusalem! + Grass grow in de graveyard; + Sing, O graveyard! + Graveyard ought to know me; + Ring, Jerusalem!" + +They improvise many more words as they sing. It is one of the strangest, +most mournful things I ever heard. It is impossible to give any idea of +the deep pathos of the refrain,-- + + "Sing, O graveyard!" + +In this, and many other hymns, the words seem to have but little +meaning; but the tones,--a whole lifetime of despairing sadness is +concentrated in them. They sing, also, "Jehovyah, Hallelujah," which we +like particularly:-- + + "De foxes hab holes, + An' de birdies hab nes', + But de Son ob Man he hab not where + To lay de weary head. + + CHORUS. + + "Jehovyah, Hallelujah! De Lord He will purvide! + Jehovyah, Hallelujah! De Lord He will purvide!" + +They repeat the words many times. "De foxes hab holes," and the +succeeding lines, are sung in the most touching, mournful tones; and +then the chorus--"Jehovyah, Hallelujah"--swells forth triumphantly, in +glad contrast. + +Christmas night, the children came in and had several grand shouts. They +were too happy to keep still. + +"Oh, Miss, all I want to do is to sing and shout!" said our little pet, +Amaretta. And sing and shout she did, to her heart's content. + +She read nicely, and was very fond of books. The tiniest children are +delighted to get a book in their hands. Many of them already know their +letters. The parents are eager to have them learn. They sometimes said +to me,-- + +"Do, Miss, let de chil'en learn eberyting dey can. _We_ nebber hab no +chance to learn nuttin', but we wants de chil'en to learn." + +They are willing to make many sacrifices that their children may attend +school. One old woman, who had a large family of children and +grandchildren, came regularly to school in the winter, and took her seat +among the little ones. She was at least sixty years old. Another +woman--who had one of the best faces I ever saw--came daily, and brought +her baby in her arms. It happened to be one of the best babies in the +world, a perfect little "model of deportment," and allowed its mother to +pursue her studies without interruption. + +While taking charge of the store, one day, one of the men who came in +told me a story which interested me much. He was a carpenter, living on +this island, and just before the capture of Port Royal had been taken by +his master to the mainland,--"the Main," as the people call it,--to +assist in building some houses which were to shelter the families of the +Rebels in case the "Yankees" should come. The master afterward sent him +back to the island, providing him with a pass, to bring away a boat and +some of the people. On his arrival he found that the Union troops were +in possession, and determined to remain here with his family instead of +returning to his master. Some of his fellow-servants, who had been left +on "the Main," hearing that the Federal troops had come, resolved to +make their escape to the islands. They found a boat of their master's, +out of which a piece six feet square had been cut. In the night they +went to the boat, which had been sunk in a creek near the house, +measured the hole, and, after several nights' work in the woods, made a +piece large enough to fit in. They then mended and sank it again, as +they had found it. The next night five of them embarked. They had a +perilous journey, often passing quite near the enemy's boats. They +travelled at night, and in the day ran close up to the shore out of +sight. Sometimes they could hear the hounds, which had been sent in +pursuit of them, baying in the woods. Their provisions gave out, and +they were nearly exhausted. At last they succeeded in passing all the +enemy's boats, and reached one of our gun-boats in safety. They were +taken on board and kindly cared for, and then sent to this island, where +their families, who had no hope of ever seeing them again, welcomed them +with great rejoicing. + +We were also told the story of two girls, one about ten, the other +fifteen, who, having been taken by their master up into the country, on +the mainland, at the time of the capture of the islands, determined to +try to escape to their parents, who had been left on this island. They +stole away at night, and travelled through woods and swamps for two +days, without eating. Sometimes their strength gave out, and they would +sink down, thinking they could go no farther; but they had brave little +hearts, and got up again and struggled on, till at last they reached +Port-Royal Ferry, in a state of utter exhaustion. They were seen there +by a boat-load of people who were also making their escape. The boat was +too full to take them in; but the people, on reaching this island, told +the children's father of their whereabouts, and he immediately took a +boat, and hastened to the ferry. The poor little creatures were almost +wild with joy when they saw him. When they were brought to their mother, +she fell down "jes' as if she was dead,"--so our informant expressed +it,--overpowered with joy on beholding the "lost who were found." + + * * * * * + +New-Year's-Day--Emancipation-Day--was a glorious one to us. The morning +was quite cold, the coldest we had experienced; but we were determined +to go to the celebration at Camp Saxton,--the camp of the First Regiment +South-Carolina Volunteers,--whither the General and Colonel Higginson +had bidden us, on this, "the greatest day in the nation's history." We +enjoyed perfectly the exciting scene on board the Flora. There was an +eager, wondering crowd of the freed people in their holiday-attire, with +the gayest of head-handkerchiefs, the whitest of aprons, and the +happiest of faces. The band was playing, the flags streaming, everybody +talking merrily and feeling strangely happy. The sun shone brightly, the +very waves seemed to partake of the universal gayety, and danced and +sparkled more joyously than ever before. Long before we reached Camp +Saxton we could see the beautiful grove, and the ruins of the old +Huguenot fort near it. Some companies of the First Regiment were drawn +up in line under the trees, near the landing, to receive us. A fine, +soldierly-looking set of men; their brilliant dress against the trees +(they were then wearing red pantaloons) invested them with a +semi-barbaric splendor. It was my good fortune to find among the +officers an old friend,--and what it was to meet a friend from the +North, in our isolated Southern life, no one can imagine who has not +experienced the pleasure. Letters were an unspeakable luxury,--we +hungered for them, we could never get enough; but to meet old +friends,--that was "too much, too much," as the people here say, when +they are very much in earnest. Our friend took us over the camp, and +showed us all the arrangements. Everything looked clean and comfortable, +much neater, we were told, than in most of the white camps. An officer +told us that he had never seen a regiment in which the men were so +honest. "In many other camps," said he, "the colonel and the rest of us +would find it necessary to place a guard before our tents. We never do +it here. They are left entirely unguarded. Yet nothing has ever been +touched." We were glad to know that. It is a remarkable fact, when we +consider that these men have all their lives been _slaves_; and we know +what the teachings of Slavery are. + +The celebration took place in the beautiful grove of live-oaks adjoining +the camp. It was the largest grove we had seen. I wish it were possible +to describe fitly the scene which met our eyes as we sat upon the stand, +and looked down on the crowd before us. There were the black soldiers in +their blue coats and scarlet pantaloons, the officers of this and other +regiments in their handsome uniforms, and crowds of lookers-on,--men, +women, and children, of every complexion, grouped in various attitudes +under the moss-hung trees. The faces of all wore a happy, interested +look. The exercises commenced with a prayer by the chaplain of the +regiment. An ode, written for the occasion by Professor Zachos, was read +by him, and then sung. Colonel Higginson then introduced Dr. Brisbane, +who read the President's Proclamation, which was enthusiastically +cheered. Rev. Mr. French presented to the Colonel two very elegant +flags, a gift to the regiment from the Church of the Puritans, +accompanying them by an appropriate and enthusiastic speech. At its +conclusion, before Colonel Higginson could reply, and while he still +stood holding the flags in his hand, some of the colored people, of +their own accord, commenced singing, "My Country, 'tis of thee." It was +a touching and beautiful incident, and sent a thrill through all our +hearts. The Colonel was deeply moved by it. He said that that reply was +far more effective than any speech he could make. But he did make one of +those stirring speeches which are "half battles." All hearts swelled +with emotion as we listened to his glorious words,--"stirring the soul +like the sound of a trumpet." + +His soldiers are warmly attached to him, and he evidently feels towards +them all as if they were his children. The people speak of him as "the +officer who never leaves his regiment for pleasure," but devotes +himself, with all his rich gifts of mind and heart, to their interests. +It is not strange that his judicious kindness, ready sympathy, and rare +fascination of manner should attach them to him strongly. He is one's +ideal of an officer. There is in him much of the grand, knightly spirit +of the olden time,--scorn of all that is mean and ignoble, pity for the +weak, chivalrous devotion to the cause of the oppressed. + +General Saxton spoke also, and was received with great enthusiasm. +Throughout the morning, repeated cheers were given for him by the +regiment, and joined in heartily by all the people. They know him to be +one of the best and noblest men in the world. His Proclamation for +Emancipation-Day we thought, if possible, even more beautiful than the +Thanksgiving Proclamation. + +At the close of Colonel Higginson's speech he presented the flags to the +color-bearers, Sergeant Rivers and Sergeant Sutton, with an earnest +charge, to which they made appropriate replies. We were particularly +pleased with Robert Sutton, who is a man of great natural intelligence, +and whose remarks were simple, eloquent, and forcible. + +Mrs. Gage also uttered some earnest words; and then the regiment sang +"John Brown" with much spirit. After the meeting we saw the +dress-parade, a brilliant and beautiful sight. An officer told us that +the men went through the drill remarkably well,--that the ease and +rapidity with which they learned the movements were wonderful. To us it +seemed strange as a miracle,--this black regiment, the first mustered +into the service of the United States, doing itself honor in the sight +of the officers of other regiments, many of whom, doubtless, "came to +scoff." The men afterwards had a great feast, ten oxen having been +roasted whole for their especial benefit. + +We went to the landing, intending to take the next boat for Beaufort; +but finding it very much crowded, waited for another. It was the +softest, loveliest moonlight; we seated ourselves on the ruined wall of +the old fort; and when the boat had got a short distance from the shore +the band in it commenced playing "Sweet Home." The moonlight on the +water, the perfect stillness around, the wildness and solitude of the +ruins, all seemed to give new pathos to that ever dear and beautiful old +song. It came very near to all of us,--strangers in that strange +Southern land. After a while we retired to one of the tents,--for the +night-air, as usual, grew dangerously damp,--and, sitting around the +bright wood-fire, enjoyed the brilliant and entertaining conversation. +Very unwilling were we to go home; for, besides the attractive society, +we knew that the soldiers were to have grand shouts and a general +jubilee that night. But the Flora was coming, and we were obliged to say +a reluctant farewell to Camp Saxton and the hospitable dwellers therein, +and hasten to the landing. We promenaded the deck of the steamer, sang +patriotic songs, and agreed that moonlight and water had never looked so +beautiful as on that night. At Beaufort we took the row-boat for St. +Helena; and the boatmen, as they rowed, sang some of their sweetest, +wildest hymns. It was a fitting close to such a day. Our hearts were +filled with an exceeding great gladness; for, although the Government +had left much undone, we knew that Freedom was surely born in our land +that day. It seemed too glorious a good to realize,--this beginning of +the great work we had so longed and prayed for. + + * * * * * + +L. and I had one day an interesting visit to a plantation about six +miles from ours. The house is beautifully situated in the midst of noble +pine-trees, on the banks of a large creek. The place was owned by a very +wealthy Rebel family, and is one of the pleasantest and healthiest on +the island. The vicinity of the pines makes it quite healthy. There were +a hundred and fifty people on it,--one hundred of whom had come from +Edisto Island at the time of its evacuation by our troops. There were +not houses enough to accommodate them, and they had to take shelter in +barns, out-houses, or any other place they could find. They afterwards +built rude dwellings for themselves, which did not, however, afford them +much protection in bad weather. The superintendent told us that they +were well-behaved and industrious. One old woman interested us greatly. +Her name was Daphne; she was probably more than a hundred years old; had +had fifty grandchildren, sixty-five great-grandchildren, and three +great-great-grandchildren. Entirely blind, she yet seemed very cheerful +and happy. She told us that she was brought with her parents from Africa +at the time of the Revolution. A bright, happy old face was hers, and +she retained her faculties remarkably well. Fifteen of the people had +escaped from the mainland in the previous spring. They were pursued, and +one of them was overtaken by his master in the swamps. A fierce grapple +ensued,--the master on horseback, the man on foot. The former drew a +pistol and shot his slave through the arm, shattering it dreadfully. +Still, the heroic man fought desperately, and at last succeeded in +unhorsing his master, and beating him until he was senseless. He then +made his escape, and joined the rest of the party. + +One of the most interesting sights we saw was a baptism among the +people. On one Sunday there were a hundred and fifty baptized in the +creek near the church. They looked very picturesque in their white +aprons and bright frocks and handkerchiefs. As they marched in +procession down to the river's edge, and during the ceremony, the +spectators, with whom the banks were crowded, sang glad, triumphant +songs. The freed people on this island are all Baptists. + +We were much disappointed in the Southern climate. We found it much +colder than we had expected,--quite cold enough for as thick winter +clothing as one would wear at the North. The houses, heated only by open +fires, were never comfortably warm. In the floor of our sitting-room +there was a large crack through which we could see the ground beneath; +and through this and the crevices of the numerous doors and windows the +wind came chillingly. The church in which we taught school was +particularly damp and cold. There was no chimney, and we could have no +fire at all. Near the close of the winter a stove came for us, but it +could not be made to draw; we were nearly suffocated with smoke, and +gave it up in despair. We got so thoroughly chilled and benumbed within, +that for several days we had school out-of-doors, where it was much +warmer. Our school-room was a pleasant one,--for ceiling the blue sky +above, for walls the grand old oaks with their beautiful +moss-drapery,--but the dampness of the ground made it unsafe for us to +continue the experiment. + +At a later period, during a few days' visit to some friends living on +the Milne Plantation, then the head-quarters of the First +South-Carolina, which was on picket-duty at Port-Royal Ferry, we had an +opportunity of seeing something of Port-Royal Island. We had pleasant +rides through the pine barrens. Indeed, riding on horseback was our +chief recreation at the South, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. The +"Secesh" horses, though small, poor, and mean-looking, when compared +with ours, are generally excellent for the saddle, well-trained and very +easy. I remember particularly one ride that we had while on Port-Royal +Island. We visited the Barnwell Plantation, one of the finest places on +the island. It is situated on Broad River. The grounds are extensive, +and are filled with magnificent live-oaks, magnolias, and other trees. +We saw one noble old oak, said to be the largest on these islands. Some +of the branches have been cut off, but the remaining ones cover an area +of more than a hundred feet in circumference. We rode to a point whence +the Rebels on the opposite side of the river are sometimes to be seen. +But they were not visible that day; and we were disappointed in our +long-cherished hope of seeing a "real live Rebel." On leaving the +plantation, we rode through a long avenue of oaks,--the moss-hung +branches forming a perfect arch over our heads,--and then for miles +through the pine barrens. There was an Italian softness in the April +air. Only a low, faint murmur--hardly "the slow song of the sea"--could +be heard among the pines. The ground was thickly carpeted with ferns of +a vivid green. We found large violets, purple and white, and azaleas of +a deeper pink and heavier fragrance than ours. It was leaving Paradise, +to emerge from the beautiful woods upon the public road,--the shell-road +which runs from Beaufort to the Ferry. Then we entered a by-way leading +to the plantation, where we found the Cherokee rose in all its glory. +The hedges were white with it; it canopied the trees, and hung from +their branches its long sprays of snowy blossoms and dark, shining +leaves, forming perfect arches, and bowers which seemed fitting places +for fairies to dwell in. How it gladdened our eyes and hearts! It was as +if all the dark shadows that have so long hung over this Southern land +had flitted away, and, in this garment of purest white, it shone forth +transfigured, beautified, forevermore. + +On returning to the house, we were met by the exciting news that the +Rebels were bringing up pontoon-bridges, and were expected to attempt +crossing over near the Ferry, which was only two or three miles from us. +Couriers came in every few moments with various reports. A +superintendent whose plantation was very near the Ferry had been +watching through his glass the movements on the opposite side, and +reported that the Rebels were gathering in large force, and evidently +preparing for some kind of demonstration. A messenger was despatched to +Beaufort for reinforcements, and for some time we were in a state of +expectancy, not entirely without excitement, but entirely without fear. +The officers evidently enjoyed the prospect of a fight. One of them +assured me that I should have the pleasure of seeing a Rebel shell +during the afternoon. It was proposed that the women should be sent into +Beaufort in an ambulance; against which ignoble treatment we indignantly +protested, and declared our intention of remaining at our post, if the +Colonel would consent; and finally, to our great joy, the best of +colonels did consent that we should remain, as he considered it quite +safe for us to do so. Soon a light battery arrived, and during the +evening a brisk firing was kept up. We could hear the explosion of the +shells. It was quite like being in the war; and as the firing was +principally on our side, and the enemy was getting the worst of it, we +rather enjoyed it. For a little while the Colonel read to us, in his +spirited way, some of the stirring "Lays of the Old Cavaliers." It was +just the time to appreciate them thoroughly, and he was of all men the +fittest person to read them. But soon came a courier, "in hot haste," to +make report of the doings without, and the reading was at an end. In the +midst of the firing, Mrs. D. and I went to bed, and slept soundly until +morning. We learned afterward that the Rebels had not intended to cross +over, but were attempting to take the guns off one of our boats, which +they had sunk a few days previous. The timely arrival of the battery +from Beaufort prevented them from accomplishing their purpose. + + * * * * * + +In April we left Oaklands, which had always been considered a +particularly unhealthy place during the summer, and came to "Seaside," a +plantation on another and healthier part of the island. The place +contains nearly a hundred people. The house is large and comparatively +comfortable. Notwithstanding the name, we have not even a distant +glimpse of the sea, although we can sometimes hear its roar. At low tide +there is not a drop of water to be seen,--only dreary stretches of +marsh-land, reminding us of the sad outlook of Mariana in the Moated +Grange,-- + + "The level waste and rounding gray." + +But at night we have generally a good sea-breeze, and during the hottest +weather the air is purer and more invigorating than in many parts of the +island. + +On this, as on several other large plantations, there is a +"Praise-House," which is the special property of the people. Even in the +old days of Slavery, they were allowed to hold meetings here; and they +still keep up the custom. They assemble on several nights of the week, +and on Sunday afternoons. First, they hold what is called the +"Praise-Meeting," which consists of singing, praying, and preaching. We +have heard some of the old negro preachers make prayers that were really +beautiful and touching. In these meetings they sing only the +church-hymns which the Northern ministers have taught them, and which +are far less suited to their voices than their own. At the close of the +Praise-Meeting they all shake hands with each other in the most solemn +manner. Afterward, as a kind of appendix, they have a grand "shout," +during which they sing their own hymns. Maurice, an old blind man, leads +the singing. He has a remarkable voice, and sings with the greatest +enthusiasm. The first shout that we witnessed in the Praise-House +impressed us very much. The large, gloomy room, with its blackened +walls,--the wild, whirling dance of the shouters,--the crowd of dark, +eager faces gathered around,--the figure of the old blind man, whose +excitement could hardly be controlled, and whose attitude and gestures +while singing were very fine,--and over all, the red glare of the +burning pine-knot, which shed a circle of light around it, but only +seemed to deepen and darken the shadows in the other parts of the +room,--these all formed a wild, strange, and deeply impressive picture, +not soon to be forgotten. + +Maurice's especial favorite is one of the grandest hymns that we have +yet heard:-- + + "De tallest tree in Paradise + De Christian calls de Tree ob Life, + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem. + + CHORUS. + + "Blow, Gabriel! trumpet, blow louder, louder! + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem! + + "Paul and Silas jail-bound + Sing God's praise both night and day, + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem. + + CHORUS. + + "Blow, Gabriel! trumpet, blow louder, louder! + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem!" + +The chorus has a glad, triumphal sound, and in singing it the voice of +old Maurice rings out in wonderfully clear, trumpet-like tones. His +blindness was caused by a blow on the head from a loaded whip. He was +struck by his master in a fit of anger. "I feel great distress when I +become blind," said Maurice; "but den I went to seek de Lord; and eber +since I know I see in de next world, I always hab great satisfaction." +We are told that the master was not a "hard man" except when in a +passion, and then he seems to have been very cruel. + +One of the women on the place, Old Bess, bears on her limbs many marks +of the whip. Some of the scars are three and four inches long. She was +used principally as a house-servant. She says, "Ebery time I lay de +table I put cow-skin on one end, an' I git beatin' and thumpin' all de +time. Hab all kinds o' work to do, and sich a gang [of children] to look +after! One person couldn't git along wid so much work, so it go wrong, +and den I git beatin'." + +But the cruelty of Bess's master sinks into insignificance, when +compared with the far-famed wickedness of another slave-holder, known +all over the island as "Old Joe Eddings." There seem to have been no +bounds to his cruelty and licentiousness; and the people tell tales of +him which make one shudder. We were once asking some questions about him +of an old, half-witted woman, a former slave of his. The look of horror +and loathing which overspread her face was perfectly indescribable, as, +with upraised hands, she exclaimed, "What! Old Joe Eddings? Lord, +Missus, he second to none in de world but de Debil!" She had, indeed, +good cause to detest him; for, some years before, her daughter, a young +black girl, maddened by his persecutions, had thrown herself into the +creek and been drowned, after having been severely beaten for refusing +to degrade herself. Outraged, despised, and black, she yet preferred +death to dishonor. But these are things too heart-sickening to dwell +upon. God alone knows how many hundreds of plantations, all over the +South, might furnish a similar record. + + * * * * * + +Early in June, before the summer heat had become unendurable, we made a +pleasant excursion to Edisto Island. We left St. Helena village in the +morning, dined on one of the gun-boats stationed near our island, and in +the afternoon proceeded to Edisto in two row-boats. There were six of +us, besides an officer and the boats' crews, who were armed with guns +and cutlasses. There was no actual danger; but as we were going into the +enemy's country, we thought it wisest to guard against surprises. After +a delightful row, we reached the island near sunset, landing at a place +called Eddingsville, which was a favorite summer resort with the +aristocracy of Edisto. It has a fine beach several miles in length. +Along the beach there is a row of houses, which must once have been very +desirable dwellings, but have now a desolate, dismantled look. The +sailors explored the beach for some distance, and returned, reporting +"all quiet, and nobody to be seen"; so we walked on, feeling quite safe, +stopping here and there to gather the beautiful tiny shells which were +buried deep in the sands. + +We took supper in a room of one of the deserted houses, using for seats +some old bureau-drawers turned edgewise. Afterward we sat on the piazza, +watching the lightning playing from a low, black cloud over a sky +flushed with sunset, and listening to the merry songs of the sailors who +occupied the next house. They had built a large fire, the cheerful glow +of which shone through the windows, and we could see them dancing, +evidently in great glee. Later, we had another walk on the beach, in the +lovely moonlight. It was very quiet then. The deep stillness was broken +only by the low, musical murmur of the waves. The moon shone bright and +clear over the deserted houses and gardens, and gave them a still wilder +and more desolate look. + +We went within-doors for the night very unwillingly. Having, of course, +no beds, we made ourselves as comfortable as we could on the floor, with +boat-cushions, blankets, and shawls. No fear of Rebels disturbed us. +There was but one road by which they could get to us, and on that a +watch was kept, and in case of their approach, we knew we should have +ample time to get to the boats and make our escape. So, despite the +mosquitoes, we had a sound night's sleep. + +The next morning we took the boats again, and followed the course of the +most winding of little creeks. In and out, in and out, the boats went. +Sometimes it seemed as if we were going into the very heart of the +woods; and through the deep silence we half expected to hear the sound +of a Rebel rifle. The banks were overhung with a thick tangle of shrubs +and bushes, which threatened to catch our boats, as we passed close +beneath their branches. In some places the stream was so narrow that we +ran aground, and then the men had to get out, and drag and pull with all +their might before we could be got clear again. After a row full of +excitement and pleasure, we reached our place of destination,--the +Eddings Plantation, whither some of the freedmen had preceded us in +their search for corn. It must once have been a beautiful place. The +grounds were laid out with great taste, and filled with fine trees, +among which we noticed particularly the oleander, laden with deep +rose-hued and deliciously fragrant flowers, and the magnolia, with its +wonderful, large blossoms, which shone dazzlingly white among the dark +leaves. We explored the house,--after it had first been examined by our +guard, to see that no foes lurked there,--but found nothing but heaps of +rubbish, an old bedstead, and a bathing-tub, of which we afterward made +good use. When we returned to the shore, we found that the tide had gone +out, and between us and the boats lay a tract of marsh-land, which it +would have been impossible to cross without a wetting. The gentlemen +determined on wading. But what were we to do? In this dilemma somebody +suggested the bathing-tub, a suggestion which was eagerly seized upon. +We were placed in it, one at a time, borne aloft in triumph on the +shoulders of four stout sailors, and safely deposited in the boat. But, +through a mistake, the tub was not sent back for two of the ladies, and +they were brought over on the crossed hands of two of the sailors, in +the "carry-a-lady-to-London" style. Again we rowed through the windings +of the creek, then out into the open sea, among the white, exhilarating +breakers,--reached the gun-boat, dined again with its hospitable +officers, and then returned to our island, which we reached after +nightfall, feeling thoroughly tired, but well pleased with our +excursion. + +From what we saw of Edisto, however, we did not like it better than our +own island,--except, of course, the beach; but we are told that farther +in the interior it is much more beautiful. The freed people, who left it +at the time of its evacuation, think it the loveliest place in the +world, and long to return. When we were going, Miss T.--the much-loved +and untiring friend and physician of the people--asked some whom we met +if we should give their love to Edisto. "Oh, yes, yes, Miss!" they said. +"Ah, Edisto a beautiful city!" And when we came back, they inquired, +eagerly,--"How you like Edisto? How Edisto stan'?" Only the fear of +again falling into the hands of the "Secesh" prevents them from +returning to their much-loved home. + + * * * * * + +As the summer advanced, the heat became intense. We found it almost +overpowering, driving to school near the middle of the day, as we were +obliged to do. I gave up riding, and mounted a sulky, such as a single +gentleman drives in at the North. It was exceedingly high, and I found +it no small task to mount up into it. Its already very comical +appearance was enhanced by the addition of a cover of black India-rubber +cloth, with which a friend kindly provided me. Thus adorned, it looked +like the skeleton of some strange creature surmounted by a huge bonnet, +and afforded endless amusement to the soldiers we chanced to meet, who +hailed its appearance with shouts of laughter, and cries of "Here comes +the Calithumpian!" This unique vehicle, with several others on our +island, kindred, but not quite equal to it, would create a decided +sensation in the streets of a Northern city. + +No description of life on these islands would be complete without a word +concerning the fleas. They appeared at the opening of spring, and kept +constantly "risin'," as the people said, until they reached a height the +possibility of which we had never conceived. We had heard and read of +fleas. We had never _realized_ them before. Words utterly fail to +describe the tortures we endured for months from these horrible little +tyrants. Remembering our sufferings "through weary day and weary +_night_," we warn everybody not gifted with extraordinary powers of +endurance to beware of a summer on the Sea Islands. + +Notwithstanding the heat, we determined to celebrate the Fourth of July +as worthily as we could. The freed people and the children of the +different schools assembled in the grove near the Baptist Church. The +flag was hung across the road, between two magnificent live-oaks, and +the children, being grouped under it, sang "The Star-Spangled Banner" +with much spirit. Our good General could not come, but addresses were +made by Mr. P.,--the noble-hearted founder of the movement for the +benefit of the people here, and from first to last their stanch and +much-loved friend,--by Mr. L., a young colored minister, and others. +Then the people sang some of their own hymns; and the woods resounded +with the grand notes of "Roll, Jordan, roll." They all afterward partook +of refreshments, consisting of molasses and water,--a very great luxury +to them,--and hardtack. + +Among the visitors present was the noble young Colonel Shaw, whose +regiment was then stationed on the island. We had met him a few nights +before, when he came to our house to witness one of the people's shouts. +We looked upon him with the deepest interest. There was something in his +face finer, more exquisite, than one often sees in a man's face, yet it +was full of courage and decision. The rare and singular charm of his +manner drew all hearts to him. He was deeply interested in the singing +and appearance of the people. A few days afterwards we saw his regiment +on dress-parade, and admired its remarkably fine and manly appearance. +After taking supper with the Colonel we sat outside the tent, while some +of his men entertained us with excellent singing. Every moment we became +more and more charmed with him. How full of life and hope and lofty +aspirations he was that night! How eagerly he expressed his wish that +they might soon be ordered to Charleston! "I do hope they will give _us_ +a chance," he said. It was the desire of his soul that his men should do +themselves honor,--that they should prove themselves to an unbelieving +world as brave soldiers as though their skins were white. And for +himself, he was like the Chevalier of old, "without reproach or fear." +After we had mounted our horses and rode away, we seemed still to feel +the kind clasp of his hand,--to hear the pleasant, genial tones of his +voice, as he bade us good-bye, and hoped that we might meet again. We +never saw him afterward. In two short weeks came the terrible massacre +at Fort Wagner, and the beautiful head of the young hero and martyr was +laid low in the dust. Never shall we forget the heart-sickness with +which we heard of his death. We could not realize it at first,--we, who +had seen him so lately in all the strength and glory of his young +manhood. For days we clung to a vain hope; then it fell away from us, +and we knew that he was gone. We knew that he died gloriously, but still +it seemed very hard. Our hearts bled for the mother whom he so +loved,--for the young wife, left desolate. And then we said, as we say +now,--"God comfort them! He only can." During a few of the sad days +which followed the attack on Fort Wagner, I was in one of the hospitals +of Beaufort, occupied with the wounded soldiers of the Fifty-Fourth +Massachusetts. The first morning was spent in mending the bullet-holes +and rents in their clothing. What a story they told! Some of the jackets +of the poor fellows were literally cut in pieces. It was pleasant to see +the brave, cheerful spirit among them. Some of them were severely +wounded, but they uttered no complaint; and in the letters which they +dictated to their absent friends there was no word of regret, but the +same cheerful tone throughout. They expressed an eager desire to get +well, that they might "go at it again." Their attachment to their young +colonel was beautiful to see. They felt his death deeply. One and all +united in the warmest and most enthusiastic praise of him. He was, +indeed, exactly the person to inspire the most loyal devotion in the +hearts of his men. And with everything to live for, he had given up his +life for them. Heaven's best gifts had been showered upon him, but for +them he had laid them all down. I think they truly appreciated the +greatness of the sacrifice. May they ever prove worthy of such a leader! +Already, they, and the regiments of freedmen here, as well, have shown +that true manhood has no limitations of color. + + * * * * * + +Daily the long-oppressed people of these islands are demonstrating their +capacity for improvement in learning and labor. What they have +accomplished in one short year exceeds our utmost expectations. Still +the sky is dark; but through the darkness we can discern a brighter +future. We cannot but feel that the day of final and entire deliverance, +so long and often so hopelessly prayed for, has at length begun to dawn +upon this much-enduring race. An old freedman said to me one day, "De +Lord make me suffer long time, Miss. 'Peared like we nebber was gwine to +git troo. But now we's free. He bring us all out right at las'." In +their darkest hours they have clung to Him, and we know He will not +forsake them. + + "The poor among men shall rejoice, + For the terrible one is brought to nought." + +While writing these pages I am once more nearing Port Royal. The +Fortunate Isles of Freedom are before me. I shall again tread the +flower-skirted wood-paths of St. Helena, and the sombre pines and +bearded oaks shall whisper in the sea-wind their grave welcome. I shall +dwell again among "mine own people." I shall gather my scholars about +me, and see smiles of greeting break over their dusk faces. My heart +sings a song of thanksgiving, at the thought that even I am permitted to +do something for a long-abused race, and aid in promoting a higher, +holier, and happier life on the Sea Islands. + + + + +A FAST-DAY AT FOXDEN. + + +I. + +Colonel Elijah Prowley, like all good and true genealogists, held the +mother-country in tender reverence. For, if there be any truth in the +well-known _mot_ which calls Paris the Paradise of virtuous Yankees, it +is limited to a few city-bucks of mongrel caste. England must be the +Promised Land for the genuine representative of the Puritan. Whatever we +may have felt about her lately,--and I confess there have been times +when the declaration of the Fee-Faw-Fum giant of nursery-romance seemed +to be of a moral and praiseworthy character,--there is no doubt, that, +in the year of grace of which I write, and in the regards of many +ratherish-scholarly gentlemen of our country-towns, the British Islands +were the nearest terrestrial correspondences to the Islands of the +Blest. About the massive Past Colonel Prowley never ceased to thrust his +epistolary tendrils. Was not Great Britain a genealogical hunting-ground +where game of rarest plumage might be started? Was not a +family-connection with Sir Walter Raleigh (whose name should be written +_Praleigh_, a common corruption of "Prowley" in the sixteenth century) +susceptible of the clearest proof? There were, in fact, few +distinguished Englishmen of the present day, who, if a provoking +ancestor or two could be unearthed, might not be shown to have the +Prowley fluid in their veins. To many of these eminent personages the +head of the American branch of the family had written, and with several +he had succeeded in establishing a correspondence. Old sermons, moral +obituaries of public characters, celebrations of centennial +anniversaries, and heavy reading of like description, constantly left +the Foxden Post-Office addressed to the British Museum. The printed +formulas of acknowledgment which arrived in return were preserved as the +rarest treasures. + +And in fulness of time all this corresponding and presenting produced a +glorious result. Elijah Prowley, of Foxden, was chosen an Honorary +Member of the Royal Society of British Sextons,--an association than +which there is none more mouldy in the whole world. Certainly, this was +glory enough for any Western genealogist,--yet Fortune had a higher +gratification to bestow. For, in His Worship, the Most Primordial, the +High Senior Governour and Primitive Patriarch of all Sextons, Colonel +Prowley soon discovered a relative of his own. Sir Joseph Barley, a +rubicund old knight, and the Most Primordial in question, after an +elaborate investigation and counter-investigation, a jockeying of the +wits of very old women, and a raid into divers registers, scrolls, +schedules, archives, and the like,--Sir Joseph Barley, I say, turned out +to be _a long-lost cousin_. "Barley," it appeared, had anciently been +written "Parley," and "Praley," and even "Proley." Having arrived at +this point, Sir Joseph conjectured that his ancestor Proley might have +dropped a _w_ out of his name, and the Colonel conjectured that his +progenitor, the Puritan, might have put one into his. Now it did not +matter which was right, for, as was convincingly underscored in one of +my letters from Foxden, "_upon either hypothesis_, the relationship of +the Barleys of Old England to the Prowleys of New England was positively +established." + +And so Sir Joseph Barley was dead! + +Although shocked, when the fact of his demise was abruptly announced in +the familiar chirography of my old friend, I was unable to prevent a +certain sense of the grotesque from mingling with the idea. A portrait +in pastel, which hung over the chimney-piece in the Colonel's study, had +given me a thorough acquaintance with the outward Sir Joseph. That +brief, but bulky figure, clad in official robes as High Senior +Governour, that weighty seal of the Sextons which dangled from the fob, +those impressive spectacles with the glasses cut in parallelograms, +above all, that full-blown face blandly contemplating our American +rudeness like a smiling Phoebus from British skies,--how could all +these things, which had so individualized the natural body of Sir Joseph +Barley, be dispensed with in its spiritual counterpart? No answer to +such question,--only the grim facts, that one brother more had "gone +over to the majority," and that the living minority got on very +comfortably without him. Comfortably? Ay, truly; for in the very letter +that brought the news I was begged to spend the approaching Fast-Day in +Foxden, just as if nothing had happened. The season, so I was assured, +was unusually advanced, and already the flavor of spring was perceptible +in the air; moreover, the different congregations in town were to unite +in services at the Orthodox Church, and, by extraordinary favor, one of +the Colonel's Boston correspondents, no less a man than the +distinguished Dr. Burge, was to preach the sermon. + +A noble specimen of our New-England clergy was this Dr. Burge. He held +the old creed-formulas through which Wilson and Mather declared their +faith, yet warmed them into ruddy life by whatever fire the last +transcendental Prometheus or Comte-devoted scientist filched from aërial +or material heaven. A good diner-out, a good visitor among the poor. His +parishioners supplied him with a wood-fire, a saddle-horse, and, it was +maliciously said, a boxing-master; and he, on his part,--so ran the idle +rumor of the street,--covenanted never to call upon them for cod-liver +oil, Bourbon whiskey, or a tour to Europe. In his majestic presence +there was a total impression sanative to body and soul. The full powers +of manner and tone, of pause and emphasis, were at his command. He would +rise in a shingled meeting-house as effective as choir, organ, and +sacerdotal vestments in full cathedral-service. I was glad to learn that +this stalwart servant of the Word would be at Foxden. He had formerly +been well acquainted with the Reverend Charles Clifton, late pastor of a +church in that place. He might deal wisely with the evil intelligence, +or, possibly, the infatuated egotism, which controlled that unfortunate +man. Dr. Burge would possess his soul in calmness in presence of the +singular epidemic which was then running through Foxden, as it had +previously run through, and run out of, other river-towns. + +And now it has come in my way to speak of that strange murmuring of +phantoms and their attendant seers, psychometers, and dactylomancers, +which in these latter days has revived among us. And what I may have to +say about what is called Spiritualism will reflect actual observations. +I do not forget that to the advocacy of the "New Dispensation" are +devoted many men of earnestness and a few of ability. It is possible +that the facts they build upon may render mine exceptional and +unimportant. What is here set down is but a trifling contribution to +that mass of human testimony and human opinion from which the truth must +be finally elicited. + +Mr. Stellato had been celestially commissioned to Barnum the spirits in +their Foxden exhibitions. Two years previously this gentleman was to be +seen at the head of a fanatical and tumultuary offshoot from a cause the +most humane and noble. He had done whatever his slender abilities +permitted to bring into discredit large-hearted and devoted men and +women whom history will honorably remember as New-England Reformers. But +to lead anything on a large scale, without a continual winding-up by his +companion, the fibrous Mrs. Romulus, was beyond the crassitude of +Stellato's pursy nature. Now it had come to pass that this acidulated +lady, essaying fresh flurries of progression, discovering higher +passional affinities and new duties of demolition, proving that in +Church and State every brick was loose and every timber rotten, +testifying ever to the existence of a certain harmonial mortar by which +the rubbish of a demolished civilization could be rebuilt into +unexceptionable forms,--it happened that this woman, having towered for +one proud moment at the very apex of her mission, slipped suddenly into +the Romish communion, and was no more seen of men. Stellato, perceiving +that the peculiar machinery be had been taught to manage was now out of +repair and impracticable, looked about for some new invention whereby to +gain a livelihood from the credulity of his neighbors. "The spirits," +then at the height of their profit and renown, were adapted to his +purpose. A blank and vacant mind was freely offered to any power of +earth or air which would condescend to enter and possess it. And so Mr. +Stellato, with his three parts knavery and two parts delusion, became a +popular and successful ghost-monger. + +The parsonage had been closed since Charles Clifton terminated his +connection with the parish two years before. The newest lights of the +Liberal persuasion, fledglings from divinity-schools, youths of every +possible variety of creed and no creed, had by turns occupied the vacant +pulpit. The Gospel vibrated at all points between the interpretations of +Calvin and Strauss. The congregation grew more and more critical, and +could agree upon no candidate for settlement. They demanded the +respectability of belief with the showy talents of skepticism,--an +impossible combination, at least for a parish which offered only eight +hundred dollars and a decrepit house. At length Colonel Prowley took a +pew in the Orthodox Church;--it was a temporary arrangement, he said, to +be terminated whenever a settled minister should be provided for the +First Parish. + +The Reverend Charles Clifton seldom left the rooms which he had taken in +a farmer's family on the outskirts of the town. We have seen how this +man had once believed that Providence had called him to an exceptional +and brilliant destiny. The total renouncement of what once glowed as a +mission requires a sturdy nature and plenty of active work. Clifton +possessed an exceeding susceptibility of nervous organization; he was +full of subtile intimations of what was passing in the minds of other +men, and at times seemed to have a strange power of controlling them. +The deep passion for metaphysical knowledge, which in his youth had been +kindled, was stilled, but never overcome. Wifeless, childless, he was +put under no bonds to struggle with the world. He knew the coldness of +the church in which he had been ordained to minister,--the hard and +dreary lives of those whom he had undertaken to illumine. But he made +the fatal mistake--inexcusable, it would seem, in a man of his liberal +nurture--of supposing that this world's evil was owing to the absence of +right opinion, and not of right feeling. It is to be feared that it was +not principle, but only a paroxysm of cowardice, which caused Clifton to +bury Vannelle's legacy in the Mather Safe. At all events, the minister +found himself unable to dismiss a certain thin and impalpable fantasy +which lingered behind that ponderous speculation of an all-embracing +philosophy. For the past two years he had fitfully sought, or rather +persuaded himself that he sought, some clue through the sad labyrinth of +his fate. He had indulged in the most morbid conditions of his physical +organism; there was neither steadiness in his purpose nor firmness in +his action. He yearned for that proximity to hidden things, which, if +not forbidden to all men, yet is dangerous to most men. At length he +succeeded in freeing his soul from the weight of conscious intellectual +life which had become too heavy for it to bear. And while the Foxden +people were wondering about the occupation of a late pastor in one of +their churches, and inquiring of each other whether he would again speak +before them, their gossiping solicitude was suddenly set at rest. +Printed show-bills were posted about the streets: "Grand Festival of +Spiritualists at the Town Hall." "The Reverend Charles Clifton will +speak"--a line of largest type gloated upon the scandal--"IN A +TRANCE-STATE." + +"I really ought to apologize," said Colonel Prowley, upon opening the +hall-door for my admittance, on the afternoon of the second Wednesday in +April, and this after repeated summons had been sounded by the brazen +knocker,--"I ought to apologize for keeping you here so long; but there +has been so much knocking about the house of late, and our cook and +housemaid having turned out to be such excellent mediums, taking just as +much interest in their circle down-stairs as we do in ours in the +parlor, and then Mrs. Colfodder being so positive that it was either Sir +Joseph Barley or Roger Williams,--though I am sure neither of them ever +knocked half so satisfactorily before, and besides"---- + +"My dear Sir," interrupted I, "no excuse is necessary. I have +seen enough of 'the spirits' to know how they put aside all +conventionalities. I should have accompanied Dr. Burge to the hotel, had +I anticipated disturbing the circle which, I infer, is at present in +session." + +"You would have grieved me very much by doing so," rejoined the kind old +gentleman. "Dr. Burge dines with me to-morrow, and I confess--not yet +calling myself a convert to these miracles which are now vouchsafed in +Foxden--it would not be amiss to rid my premises of the amiable +magicians congregated in my parlor before a minister were invited to +enter. But a layman, as I take it, might witness these thaumaturgical +matters without scandal,--nay, perchance you may help me to that +wholesome credence in their reality which my celestial visitants so +unceasingly demand." + +Colonel Prowley was in the state of mind not unusual to many +well-meaning, unoccupied people, when this modern necromancy was thrust +upon them by those pecuniarily or socially interested in its advocacy. +The upheaval to the air of that dark inward nature which is ever working +in us,--the startling proof of that loudly proclaimed, faintly realized +truth, that this mind, so pervading every fibre of the body, is yet +separate in its essence,--the novel gratification of the petty vanities +and petty questionings which beset undecided men,--what wonder that +persons not accustomed to sound analysis of evidence should be beguiled +by these subtilest adaptations to their conditions, and hold dalliance +with the feeble shades that imposture or enthusiasm vended about the +towns? Historical personages--a nerveless mimicry of the conventional +stage-representation of them--stalked the Colonel's parlor. Departed +friends, Indians _à discrétion_, local celebrities, Deacon Golly, who in +the year '90 took the ten first shares in the Wrexford Turnpike, the +very Pelatiah Brimble from whom "Brimble's Corner" had taken its name, +the identical Timson forever immortal in "Timson's Common,"--these +defunct worthies were audibly, visibly, or tangibly present, pecking at +great subjects in ghostly feebleness, swimming in Tupperic dilutions of +cheapest wisdom, and finally inducing in their patrons strange +derangements of mind and body. + +The circle, which was very select, consisted of three highly susceptible +ladies and Stellato as medium-in-chief. Miss Turligood, a sort of +Oroveso to the Druidical chorus, was a muscular spinster, fierce and +forty, sporting steel spectacles, a frizette of the most scrupulous +honesty, and a towering comb which formed what the landscape-gardeners +call "an object" in the distance. Next this commanding lady, with fat +hands sprawled upon the table, sat Mrs. Colfodder, widow, according to +the flesh, of a respectable Foxden grocer. By later spiritual +communications, however, it appeared that matters stood very +differently; for no sooner had the departed Colfodder looked about him a +little in the world to come than he proceeded to contract marriage with +Queen Elizabeth of England, thereby leaving his mortal relict quite free +to receive the addresses of the late Lord Byron, whose proposals were of +the most honorable as well as amatory character. Miss Branly, by far the +most pleasing of the lady-patronesses, was a fragile, stove-dried +mantua-maker,--and, truly, it seemed something like poetic justice to +recompense her depressed existence with the satisfactions of a material +heaven full of marryings and givings in marriage. + +"Will Sir Joseph tip for us again?" inquired Miss Turligood, with her +eyes fixed upon a crack in the mahogany table. "Will he? Will he not? +Will he?" + +Sir Joseph vouchsafed no answer. + +"Hark! wasn't that a rap?" cried Stellato, in a husky whisper. + +Here every one pricked an ear towards the table. + +"Doctor Franklin, is that you?" + +"The Doctor promised to be present to give a scientific and +philosophical view of these communications," parenthesized the +interrogator. + +"Doctor Franklin, is that _you_?" + +A faint creaking is audible. + +"Byron's sign, as I'm a living woman!" ejaculated the Widow Colfodder. + +"Her spiritual partner and guardian-angel," explained Miss +Turligood,--and this for my satisfaction as the last-comer. + +Direct examination by the widow:-- + +"Have you brought your patent lyre here to-night?" + +For the enlightenment of the company:-- + +"He played the lyre so beautiful on earth, that when he got to the +spheres a committee gave him a golden one, with all the modern +improvements." + +Question concerning the lyre repeated. A mysterious rubbing interpreted +as an affirmative reply. + +"Have you brought Pocahontas with you? (she 'most always comes with +him)--and if so, can she kiss me to-night?" + +The table is exceedingly doubtful. + +"Could she kiss Colonel Prowley, or even pull his hair a little?" + +No certainty of either. + +"Can she kiss Miss Turligood?" + +The table is satisfied that it couldn't be done. + +"Let me try her," urged Stellato, with the confidence of an expert; then +in seductive tones,-- + +"Couldn't Pocahontas kiss Miss Branly, if all the lights were put out?" + +Pocahontas thought it highly probable that she could. + +Here some interesting badgering. Miss Branly declined being kissed in +the dark. Miss Turligood thought it would be very satisfactory, if she +would, and couldn't see why any one should object to it. She (Miss +Turligood) would willingly be kissed in the dark, or in the light, in +furtherance of scientific investigation. + +Stellato suggested a compromise. + +"Might not the kissing be done through a medium?" + +At first the table thought it couldn't, but afterwards relented, and +thought it might. + +"Would Pocahontas appoint that medium?" + +She would. + +"Should the alphabet be called?" + +It should not. + +"Would the table tip towards the medium indicated?" + +It could not be done. + +"Should somebody call over the names of all mediums present, and would +the table tip at the right one?" + +Ah, that was it! + +"I suppose you and I have no share in this Gift Enterprise," whispered +Colonel Prowley. + +"Order! order!" shouted Miss Turligood, glancing in our direction with +great severity. "This general conversation cannot be permitted. We are +about to have a most interesting manifestation.--Pocahontas, do you wish +me to call over the names?" + +Pocahontas did not object. + +"Very well, then, you will tip when I come to the name of the medium +through whom you consent to kiss Miss Sarah Branly?" + +Pocahontas certainly would. + +"Is it Mrs. Colfodder?" + +No reply. + +"Is it I, Eugenia Turligood?" + +No, it certainly was not. + +"Well, then, I suppose it must be Mr. Stellato!" + +Here the table was violently convulsed, as if somebody were pulling it +very hard upon Mr. Stellato's side, and somebody else holding it with +rigid firmness upon the other. + +"_Is_ it Mr. Stellato?" + +Convulsion repeated. + +"I don't think you stopped long enough at Mrs. Colfodder's name," +interposed Miss Branly. "I am sure the table was going to move, if you +had given it time." + +"Nothing easier than to try again," responded Miss Turligood. "Is it +Mrs. Colfodder?" + +This time the table fairly sprang into the lap of the lady indicated. + +And so that worthy widow arose and saluted--or rather Pocahontas, +through her mediumship, arose and saluted--Miss Sarah Branly. And the +skeptic will please take notice that this extraordinary manifestation is +neither enlarged nor magnified, but that it actually happened precisely +as is here set down. + +After this, Mr. Stellato, being put under inspiration, delivered a +discursive homily upon the "New Dispensation" which was at present +vouchsafed to the citizens of Foxden. He testified to the great relief +of getting clear of the "Old Theology,"--meaning thereby such +interpretations of Scripture as are held by the mass of our New-England +churches. Moreover, he would announce his personal satisfaction in +having, under spiritual guidance, eradicated every vestige of belief in +hell,--a circumstance upon which, it is needless to say, that a +gentleman of his profession might be honestly congratulated. With a +view, as I could not help thinking, to my peculiar necessities, Stellato +finally enlarged upon what he termed "the principle of the thing," or, +as he otherwise phrased it, "a scientific explanation of the way the +spirits worked mediums,"--"_sperrets_" and "_meejums_" according to +celestial pronunciation, but I am loath to disturb the carnal +orthography. This philosophical exposition, drawled forth in +interminable sentences, was a dark doctrine to the uninitiated. There +was a good deal about "Essences," which, at times, seemed to relate to +the perfumery vended in the fancy-department of apothecaries' shops, and +then again to some obscure matters of "Zones," "Interiors," "Magnetic +Relations," and the like. The central revelation, if I remember rightly, +had to do with a sort of putty, by which, according to the Stellato +cosmogony, Chaos had been stuck together into a Universe. This adhesive +composition was known as "Detached Vitalized Electricity." And having +got upon this sounding title, which conveyed no meaning whatever to the +"undeveloped" understanding, Stellato was profuse in windy talk. This +Detached Vitalized Electricity, spread out over space, connected the +parts of all systems; it appeared at that very instant in the form of +"power" about Miss Turligood's head; in short, it diluted all stray bits +of modern rhetoric, all exploded feats of ancient magic, into the +thinnest of spiritual gruel, which was to supersede the strong meat upon +which the Puritan walked before his Maker. + +Somebody summoned the eminent Twynintuft. Like every spirit that was +ever called for, this ex-elocutionist happened to be within a few +seconds' flight of the circle, and had nothing in the world to do but to +swoop down and tip as long as the company could possibly endure him. + +The following information was elicited by affirmative or negative +replies to the interrogatories of those present:-- + +The spirit communicating was Twynintuft, grandfather to Mrs. Widesworth. +Was unable to give his Christian name. Thought Mrs. Colfodder's lungs in +a healthy condition. Could not undertake to move the table when no hands +were upon it. If the room were made totally dark, would attempt that +curious experiment. Was unable to give the maiden name of his earthly +wife. Thought Mr. Stellato was a healing-medium of great power. Had been +something of a Root-Doctor when in the body, and would gladly prescribe +through that gentleman for the cure of all diseases. Considered mineral +medicines destructive to the vital principle. Doctor Dastick, being a +drug-doctor, would not be recognized by any medical association in the +spheres. Would give any information about the fixed stars. The +inhabitants of the Milky Way telegraphed to each other by means of the +Detached Vitalized Electricity. Also, they bottled up the same to cure +humors. Would privately impart their recipe to Mr. Stellato. It could +not be afforded upon this earth at less than three dollars a bottle. +Would, however, authorize an exception in favor of clergymen, when they +gave certificates of cures. _The spirits did not recognize +Fast-Day_,--it was a remnant of the Old Mythological Religion. Demanded +further investigation, and promised greater marvels in future. + +Here Miss Turligood became violently convulsed, and, having slapped the +table some forty times or more, seized a pencil and began to write:-- + + "DEAR PROWLEY,--Surrounded by a bank of + silver-tunicked attendants, I hover near you. The atmosphere is + redolent of costly herbs, which, with the well-known rotary + motion of the earth, impart density and spacefulness to our + spheral persons: this is the philosophy of our presence. Many + shining friends, supported upon fluted pillars, are with you + this evening. These grieve at your lack of faith, and flap + gold-bespattered wings in unison. Spherically yours, + + "SIR JOSEPH BARLEY." + +"Why does he sign himself _Sir_?" inquired Colonel Prowley, rather taken +aback at the sudden termination of this exquisite composition. + +It was evidently an oversight, for the medium's hand erased the +offending title. + +"When did Sir Joseph die?" I ventured to ask. + +"That I cannot tell you," replied his late correspondent. "I have heard +nothing from him for several months. When he last wrote, he was +suffering under a severe influenza which must have terminated fatally. +But why not ask _him_ the question?" + +"That is just my purpose.--Sir Joseph Barley, can you give me the date +of your death?" + +"It is hard for spirits to give numbers," said Mr. Stellato. + +"It is sometimes done by tips," quoth Miss Turligood. + +I pressed the demand, and, after much cajoling and counting, a certain +day of March was fixed upon. + +"Can you give me the place?" + +I was instructed to call over the names of such foreign cities as I +might remember, and assured that Sir Joseph would tip at the right one. + +It turned out to be "London." + +"And now, Sir Joseph, could you oblige me with the name of the physician +who attended your last sickness?" + +But no sooner had I propounded this final query than Mr. Stellato +declared his consciousness of a skeptical influence in the company which +would go far to impede other manifestations. Where people were not +harmonial, he explained, the Detached Vitalized Electricity being unable +to unite with the Imponderable Magnetic Fluid given off by mediums, +satisfactory results could not be obtained. + +"But we have at least obtained this satisfaction," said I, addressing +Colonel Prowley: "Sir Joseph has committed himself about the day and +place of his decease. You must soon hear from some member of his family. +If these particulars have been correctly given, there will be, at least, +the beginning of evidence upon which to establish his identity." + +Mrs. Colfodder was so shocked with the perversity of unbelief which she +detected in this harmless remark, that, nudging Miss Branly, she +solemnly arose and moved to break up the circle for the night. And as it +was already past nine o'clock, no violent objection was made to the +proposition. + +"The circle will meet in this place to-morrow morning at eight o'clock, +for the pursuance of further investigations," proclaimed Miss Turligood, +in sonorous accents. + +"Fast-Day, Madam," mildly suggested Colonel Prowley. + +"The spirits do not recognize Fast-Day. Tomorrow at eight o'clock. In +this place. Let every medium be punctual. It is to be _hoped_ that the +_conditions_ will _then_ be _favorable_!" + +This latter aspiration, with its feminine redundancy of emphasis, was +cast in my direction, as Miss Turligood swept haughtily from the room. + +Her final exit, however, was neither curt nor in any way effective. For +it was no easy matter to gather up the bags, parcels, shawls, and other +devices which the good lady had brought with her and scattered about the +entry. One India-rubber shoe in particular eluded our search, till I was +ready to admit the supposition that the spirits had carried it off, as +entirely reasonable and satisfactory. A good-natured Irishman, servant +to Miss Turligood, who had come with a lantern to see her home, at +length discovered this missing bit of apparel upon Miss Branly's +foot,--that medium, as it appeared, having in a fit of abstraction +appropriated three. Finally the lantern glimmered down the gravel-walk, +and Mr. Stellato, with a lady upon each arm, was persuaded to follow it. +It was waking from a nightmare to get rid of them. + +"Over at last!" exclaimed Miss Prowley, when we returned to the +drawing-room. She had been sitting in silence in an obscure corner, and +I had scarcely realized her presence. "Over at last! and of all +fatiguing and unprofitable employments that the folly of man ever +devised, this trifling with spirits is certainly the chief." + +"Nay, my dear," urged the brother, in his placid way, "these good people +who have fastened themselves upon us seem so anxious to continue the +investigation that I cannot find it in my heart to refuse them. I _did_ +wish, to be sure, that we might have our Fast-Day in quiet; but Miss +Turligood, who knows much more about the matter than we do, thinks the +spirits would not like it, if we did, and so--although we will absent +ourselves from the sitting long enough to go to church--we must really +make the best of it, and receive the circle." + +"You speak like a believer, Colonel Prowley," I said. + +"No, not quite that," replied the old gentleman,--"yet, truly, I +sometimes hardly know why I am not. The knockings alone are quite +inexplicable; and when it comes to a fiery hand ringing the dinner-bell, +which Stellato can show in the dark----Besides, there are the +communications from distinguished characters, many of them so very +important and interesting. To be sure, my poor cousin Barley did not do +himself justice this evening, though some of his ideas were very +poetical; but, really, the other night, when he told us how much the +Royal Sextons were thought of in the spheres, and repeated that very +high compliment which Thomas Herne paid to my family-history, it all +seemed so marvellous, and yet so natural, that I could not help +subscribing pretty handsomely to the cause." + +"And one of the privileges that your subscription has gone to purchase I +am yet to enjoy. Dr. Burge wished me to visit, in his company, your +former pastor, Mr. Clifton,--and we must look for him, as I see, at the +Spiritualists' Festival in the Town Hall." + +"Sad! sad!" cried Colonel Prowley, thoughtfully chewing upon my remark. +"It is an abiding shame for a minister of the gospel to meddle with +these things, except, possibly, in the way of exorcism. Truly, a deep +humiliation has fallen upon the town." + +And the chagrin of this respected gentleman was wholly sincere. The +Puritanical distinction between clergy and laity had scarcely faded in +his mind. The pastor of the First Church had belonged to a cherished +class,--a class whose moral and intellectual consequence must be +maintained by avoidance of all dangerous inquiries, common interests, +and secular amusements. A minister attending a Jenny-Lind +Charity-Concert in a play-house, or leading armed men in the most sacred +cause for which human blood might be shed,--what offences would these +have been to this titular Colonel of Foxden, who had won his honors by a +six-months' finery and dining as aide-de-camp to some forgotten +Governor! + +"I fear I shall not be back before you wish to close the house." + +"Never mind, you remember the old arrangement: door-key under the +scraper,--light burning in the drawing-room." + +With hearty thanks I went forth to keep my appointment with Dr. Burge. + + +II. + +The narrative here takes us to a portion of the shadowy perturbation +which any who have turned these pages as a fictitious rendering of the +grotesque in experience will do well to omit. Only a mortifying, though +perchance salutary, sense of human infirmity comes from beholding one +set over the people as intercessor and counsellor struggling in the +meshes of that snare which the Enemy had spread for the undisciplined +and wandering multitude. No, not even struggling now. That Clifton had +fought through solitary days against the wretched enervation which +invited him, I had reason to know. But he had dared to tamper with the +normal functions of mind and body, to try fantastic tricks with that +mysterious agent through which the healthy will commands the organism. +And when the mental disorder, mocked at and preached against in happier +years, at length ran through Foxden, the morbid condition of his system +was powerless to resist the contagion. + +And let us not overlook the fact that in these manifestations there was +to be found a palpable reality, a positive marvel, well calculated to +lay hold of a skeptic like Clifton. His early associations with the +Transcendentalists had undermined his faith in all popular presentations +of Christianity. But his peculiarly emotional nature could never dwell +in that haziness of opinion upon august subjects in which sounder men +among the brethren made out to live cheerfully and to work vigorously. +While Clifton madly sought a position of intelligence and satisfaction +beyond the reach of humanity, the necessary abstraction enlarged and +stimulated his reasoning powers. But the penalty was to be paid. For +with terrible recoil from its tension his mind contracted to far less +than normal limits. Then came a listless vacuity, a tawdry dreaminess. +And this poor minister, who flattered himself that he had outgrown every +graceful and touching form with which human affection or human infirmity +had clothed the Christian idea, stumbled amid the rubbish of an effete +heathenism, with its Sibylline contortions and tripod-responses, which +the best minds of Pagan civilization found no difficulty in pronouncing +a delusion and a lie. + +I knew Dr. Burge for one of those most useful instructors who will +patiently examine with the intellect what the instinct teaches them to +condemn. He seldom helped the doctrine he assailed by denying it such +facts as were true and such attractions as were real. He had cheerfully +accepted whatever reproach came to him from frequenting circles in the +attempt to see the mystery from the believers' point of view. I was not +surprised at finding him upon one of the back benches in the Town Hall. + +"Nothing noteworthy," he said, as I joined him. "Only women have +spoken,--the excited nervous system careering without restraint,--no +spirits yet." + +"They pretend inspiration, I suppose." + +"Oh, yes; and it is not surprising that semi-educated people, ignorant +of analogous phenomena, should take the _omne ignotum pro magnifico_." + +"Yet you are said to be a believer in the possession which the mediums +claim?" + +"Certainly," replied Dr. Burge, "and to just this extent:--I do not +doubt the possibility of intercourse between man and the lower grades of +immaterial life, and I am willing to adopt this hypothesis to explain +any occurrence where the facts demand it. That, in rare cases, such may +be the most simple and natural supposition, I readily admit. The +ordinary performances, however, may be accounted for without calling in +god or demon to untie the knot." + +I remarked that Mr. Clifton was not to be seen upon the platform. + +"He is kept out of the way until the last,--in the Selectmen's Room, as +I am told, and alone." + +"I fear all appeal would now be in vain; yet, Sir, I would not have you +spare an effort to awaken him to the peril of his course." + +"Let us go to him, then," assented Dr. Burge. + +Upon common occasions, the Selectmen's Room failed to suggest any +exceptional character in its occupants. It was a narrow, ill-lighted, +unventilated apartment, bitter with the after-taste of taxes, +prophetically flavorous of taxes yet to be. Stove-accommodation beyond +the criticism of the most fastidious salamander, a liberal sprinkling of +sand with a view to the ruminant necessities of the town-patricians, two +or three stiff armchairs with straws protruding from their well-worn +cushions, intolerant benches for unofficial occupancy,--altogether a +gloomy aggregate result of the diverse ideals of social well-being to be +found among the inhabitants of Foxden. But now I recognized a new +element in this familiar chamber; a strange contagion hung about the +walls; a something which imparted delicate edge to the nervous system +was perceptible in the dry heat of the air. Near an oracular table, +which bore evidence of recent manipulation, stood the Reverend Charles +Clifton: others had evidently been with him before our entrance; he was +now alone. An oil-lamp sputtered feebly in the corner. The stove-devil +glared at us through his one glazed eye, and puffed out his mephitic +welcome as I shut the door. + +"Clifton, my old friend!" exclaimed Dr. Burge. + +The person addressed raised his head, half closed his eyes, as one who +endeavors to fix objects which are flitting before him. It seemed +necessary to withdraw his inward gaze from some delicious dazzlement of +dream-land. At last he spoke slowly and with effort. + +"Burge, you here?--and one of us?" + +"Heaven forbid!" cried my companion. "I but look upon these things for +my own warning, and in the way of my duty as teacher to those who might +be disposed to tamper with unknown powers, within or without." + +"Say, rather, to melt the iron links which gyve soul to body," said +Clifton, in constrained articulation, through which a moaning undertone +seemed ever trying to be heard. "Say, rather, to produce a finer +exaltation than wine, opium, or hashish,--for it is most sweet to +subject the animal organism to the control of spirit-wills." + +"A grateful doctrine to those who dare to substitute a morbid +receptivity for an active endeavor!" + +"It is to soothe the sense-powers, so that others may use them to give +us intimations far beyond their common capacity." + +"'_I_ keep under my body and bring it into subjection,'" quoted Dr. +Burge, emphasizing the personal pronoun. "The Apostle declares that his +own immortal individuality alone controls his members,--and why? 'lest, +when I have preached unto others, I myself should become a castaway.'" + +The Doctor delivered the last sentence with rich cathedral-emphasis, and +with the full unction of priestly authority. + +Clifton, or whatever vague and dusky power controlled him, cowered at +the rebuke. The nervous energy with which he had experimented, or which +he had left passive for the experiments of others, seemed withdrawn from +his frame. + +Dr. Burge perceived his advantage, and continued:-- + +"I speak to you, my fallen brother, as I cannot speak to the foolish +people who grope in this miasma of delusion. Silly women, yielding to +the natural vanity of their sex, may mistake hysterics for inspiration. +Vacillating and vacant men may seek a new sensation by encouraging a +revival of the demoniacal epidemics of heathendom. But you, who have +been a preacher of the gospel, though, as I must now more than ever +believe, after a devitalized and perverted method,--you, to leave the +honest work of a dweller upon earth, to chatter of immensity, to weaken +the brain that it may no longer separate the true from the +false!--believe me, Clifton, you have been bought by the shallowest +promises which the King of Evil ever exchanged for a sacred and +inviolable soul." + +"You have spoken according to your business," replied Mr. Clifton, +impatiently. "You, who begin by assuming the impossibility of +spirit-intercourse since Bible times, with what candor can you examine +the facts we build upon?" + +"I make no such assumption," was the rejoinder. "Has it not been +foretold that 'in the latter times some shall depart from the faith, +giving heed to seducing spirits and doctrines of devils'? Have we not +aforetime been vexed with them in this very New England? For I almost +justify Mather's words, when he stigmatizes the necromancy of his day as +'a terrible Plague of Evil Angels,' or, in still plainer speech, as 'a +prodigious descent of devils upon divers places near the centre of this +Province.' And how better can we characterize this confused and +distracting babblement which gives no good gift to man?" + +"It has given him this," exclaimed Clifton, advancing towards Dr. Burge, +and seeming for a few moments to resume his old personality,--"it has +given him the knowledge of a life to come! You think it, preach it, +believe it,--but you do not _know_ it. A susceptibility to impressions +from the inmost characters of men has been mine through life. It has +been given me to perceive what facts and feelings most deeply adhered in +the mental consciousness. And I tell you, Burge, ministers both of your +communion and of mine repeat the old words of sublimest assurance, sway +congregations with descriptions bright or lurid of future worlds, yet +behind all this glowing speech and blatant confidence there has +lurked,--oh, will you deny it?--there has lurked a grovelling doubt of +man's immortality." + +"I will not deny it," said Dr. Burge, with slow solemnity. "Sinners that +we are, how can we ask that faith be at no moment confused by the +thousand cries of infidelity which our profession requires us to answer? +Let my soul be chilled by transient shades of skepticism, rather than +dote in a blind and puerile credulity! If I am not at all times equally +penetrated by the great fact of man's conscious immortality, it is +because of my undesert. A way to _know_ of the doctrine has been +revealed: it is by doing the will of the Father: who of us has fulfilled +the condition? But I can meet you on lower ground, and declare, that, +according to our human observation, it is not well for man to _know_ the +destiny of his being in all its details until the trials and victories +of life have taught him to turn such knowledge to elevating use. It is +the deplorable sinfulness of our nature which seeks to obtain without +deserving, to possess the end and despise the appointed means." + +Some reply would doubtless have been made to these pertinent +considerations, had not the confused tramp of a committee been heard at +the door. The professors of the "New Dispensation" had come to conduct +the Reverend Charles Clifton to their platform. The distinguished +convert shuddered, as if affected by some incorporeal presence, and +suffered himself to be led away. + +"I can do nothing more," murmured Dr. Burge; "and why should I stay to +hear diluted rhetoric, or inflated commonplace, from lips which, however +unworthily, once proclaimed the simplicity of the gospel?" + +"Because it is not well to prejudge what may offer some possible variety +in this credence," I ventured to suggest. + +"You are right; we will stay." + +A murmur of applause followed the appearance of Clifton upon the +platform,--yet it was only a murmur; for the flock, long pastured upon +delicate delusions, received as matter of course whatever shepherding +chance offered. Did not the face of the medium wear an expression of +earthly disappointment at this slender recognition? Could it be that +there was needed the hot-house heat of a carnal "success" to favor this +exquisite flowering of the spirit? Can we suppose that this whole matter +was no other than some Yankee patent to avoid the awful solitude in +which each human soul must enter into relations with the unseen? + +Slowly and in dreamy heaviness the discourse began. The inspirational +claims seemed to lie in the manifest improbability of a man of Clifton's +cultivation being so dull and diffuse in a natural condition. Yet, as +the message wore on, it cannot be denied that a strange influence was at +work. The words followed each other with greater fluency and in richer +abundance. The meaning, to be sure, was still vague enough; and whenever +some commonplace truth or plausibility protruded from the general +washiness, it was seized upon and beaten and stretched to the last +degree of tenuity. Phrases upon phrases of gorgeous dreaminess. A +soothing delight,--yet such delight as only the bodily senses demanded. +A joyful deliverance from the bondage of intellectual life. Hints that +our human consciousness of sin was a vain delusion from which the +"developed" man was happily delivered. "Come up here," said the +preacher, in substance, "and escape from this moral accountability which +sits so heavily upon you. Here is a sensuous paradise, sweet and +debilitating, offering varied delights to the eclecticism of personal +taste. All angular and harsh things may be dissolved in copious floods +of words, and washed into a ravishing, enervating Universe." + +An hour--two hours--passed. The air was thick and poisonous. Attention +had been strained to the utmost. Other things were to be noted by those +accustomed to regard mental disorder from a physiological point of view. + +And now, by some abnormal mode of cerebral activity, the trance-speaker +won strange sympathies from his auditors. Certain faculties in Clifton +had reached an expansion not permitted to the healthy man. A plastic +power came from him and took the impress of other minds. Old experiences +groped out of forgotten corners and haunted the discourse. At one time +it seemed as if all that was potential in the culture of the medium or +his audience might be stimulated into specious blossom. Phenomena were +exhibited which transcended the conscious powers of the human +soul,--nay, which testified of its latent ability to work without +organic conditions. Our unemployed brain-organs, as Hamilton and others +have clearly proved, are always employing themselves. And from this +self-employment--or was it demon-employment?--there swept through the +consciousness a vague delirium of excitement. In all that assembly a +single pulse beat feverish measures. The climax was reached. Without was +the soft spring night veiling the scarcely touched range of knowledge +and beauty offered to the healthy energies of man; within were dazed +wanderers in a region of morbid emotion, seeking to intensify the colors +of Nature, willing to waste precious vitality in conjurations of the +dead. + +The wretched thraldom was over,--and what had it left? + +An exquisite sensitiveness of the nerves of sense, imagination exalted, +memory goaded, reason and judgment overthrown. + + +III. + +In his Fast-Day sermon Dr. Burge delivered himself of much weighty +testimony against those thaumaturgical incantations of heathenism which +had been revived among us. With his splendor of clerical pause and +emphasis he read the denunciations against a sinful nation to which the +prophet Isaiah has affixed the awful words,--"Saith the Lord, the Lord +of Hosts." + +"And they shall fight every one against his brother, and every one +against his neighbor, city against city, and kingdom against kingdom." + +Here the preacher's dark eyes left the sacred volume, and seemed to gaze +upon some coming struggle in which the sins of the people would meet a +bloody retribution. Then, referring to the page, he pronounced with +bitterness of holy indignation the prophetic curse which was that day +fulfilled in our cherished New England. + +"And they shall seek to the idols, and to the charmers, and to them that +have familiar spirits, and to the wizards." + +The sermon made no more visible impression upon the sinful portion of +the congregation than homilies against novel and pleasant indulgences +are wont to do. + +"The Apostle was right, after all," said Colonel Prowley, quoting the +text upon the meeting-house steps; "we _should_ 'try the spirits.'" + +"No objection to that," said the post-master; "but here's Dr. Burge +tells us to keep out of their way, and call them all humbugs, without +trying them at all." + +The gentleman referred to joined our party upon the meeting-house +green, and accompanied us home. + +As we entered the house, our ears were saluted by a sort of scuffling +noise, with an accompaniment of broken English. Miss Turligood, highly +charged with the Detached Vitalized Electricity, or some stimulant of +equal potency, ran to meet us in the entry, to enjoin silence and a +passive state of mind before entering the parlor. The manifestations +during service had been most wonderful. Twynintuft had lifted the table +to the ceiling, with Mr. Stellato clinging to the legs. Mrs. Colfodder +had had her back-hair taken down, and the housemaid was certain that +somebody tried to kiss her. + +We made for the parlor with all convenient speed. Notwithstanding the +solemn adjurations of Dr. Burge, we entertained guilty hopes of seeing +some of the marvels which had become such positive drugs in our absence. +But to _see_ anything was, for a long time, out of the question; for the +spirits had insisted upon having the shutters closed, and shawls pinned +up before the cracks in the same, ere they would favor mortals with an +exhibition. Finally, dim outlines revealed themselves through the +obscurity. We made out a female figure (it was the cook, so Miss Prowley +whispered) who was haranguing the assembly at the rate of a word every +thirty seconds, or thereabouts. + +_Cook as Twynintuft:_--"I am Mister Twynintuft. I set lots by you all. I +left my bright spirit-home to come here to-day. The squashes was musty +afore they was brought into the house. No blame to the cook. Them +pickled termarterses couldn't keep into spring, and so I tell you now. +The spheres is a dry place, and everythin' is most a-beautiful here." + +_Betty, the housemaid, loquitur._--(She appears in the character of +Red-Jacket, a popular personation upon these occasions,--it being very +easy to talk _Indian_ by the simple recipe of transposing the nominative +and objective cases of the personal pronoun.) "Me don't like what you +say, old Twyney! I's name's Red-Jacket. Pale-face give fire-water to I. +The squashes was good enough till cook left 'em out in the rain. Me have +hunting-ground in fifth sphere. When me puts up tomatoes in the +spirit-world, me rosins 'em when they bile. Great influence comes from I +to-day; also, much development." + +"Dr. Burge," whispered I, "you claim to have devoted some time to the +examination of these delusions; but I will venture to say you have never +witnessed anything so humiliating as this!" + +"My dear Sir," murmured the Doctor in return, "the remark shows you to +be a novice indeed. Why, I have listened to hours of no better drivel +than this, fathered, not upon Indians and unknown elocutionists, but +upon some of the wisest and most saintly spirits whose mortal teachings +ever blessed mankind." + +"Do you think these people voluntary impostors?" + +"No; it would be nearer the truth to say that they are voluntary victims +of a mental epidemic like that which developed itself in the St. Vitus's +dance of the Middle Ages. The subjects of that disease went through the +same spasms, convulsions, and painful racking of the limbs which +accompany such cases of this personation as are not designed deceptions. +Even those accidentally present, when the effects of the ancient +contagion were exhibited, became infected and were irresistibly impelled +to join in the extravagance. Look at Miss Turligood and Mr. Stellato, +and see if the parallel is not supported." + +The individuals named were seen to be twisting themselves up and making +an awkward sort of obeisance to the housemaid, who (still as Red-Jacket) +thus delivered herself:-- + +"Me goin' to dancey war-dance. Great Spirit sends lots more Indians come +dancey too." + +A cry of acquiescence,--perchance intended for a ghostly war-whoop,--and +the beloved of my Lord Byron broke into a savage polka. + +Stellato seized a paper-knife, and proceeded to scalp a chair with +merciless ferocity. + +Those unfortunate ladies, Miss Branly and Miss Turligood, were unable to +resist the infection, and so sprang among the party, whirled about, and +exhibited absurdities painful and unnecessary to relate. + +"By the Muse of my ancestor the Poet!" exclaimed Colonel Prowley, +indignantly, "I will no longer endure this clumsy travesty of that +choric saltation with which Apollo was said to inspire his Pythian +virgins. Dr. Burge, you will oblige me by pulling down that shawl! +Sister, you will please to open the shutters of the south window!" + +The requests were instantly complied with. The wholesome sunlight burst +into the room, and checked, as if by magic, the unseemly mumming of +these deluded convulsionaries. Mrs. Colfodder sank down exhausted upon +the sofa. Betty ceased to be Red-Jacket. Mr. Stellato gave up his +scalping-knife, flopped feebly upon a chair, and again became a +transparent jelly-fish of philosophy and water. It was harder to bring +Miss Turligood to herself, by reason of the singular intractability of +the squaw who had taken possession of the premises, and was only to be +dislodged by much tediousness of argument and adjuration. At length, +however, even this was accomplished. The Indians sulked off into space, +and their terrestrial mediums once more prepared to collect about the +table. + +"Why, bless me! past one, I declare!" said Miss Turligood, consulting +her watch. "How spirits do make the time pass! A brief adjournment for +dinner will now take place. The circle will meet for renewed +investigation this afternoon at three o'clock. Every member will be +punctual. Remember, in this place, at three o'clock." + +"Stay," said Miss Prowley, in a gentle, but at the same time decided +tone; "it will not be convenient to us to receive this party again. The +presence of friends from the city, who are in Foxden only for the day, +renders a meeting this afternoon out of the question. And having once +broken up our regular sittings, it will not be worth while to resume +them,--at least, here." + +"But, Madam, Madam, you forget that the spirits have positively +commanded us to hold sittings in your parlor three times a day till +further notice!" gasped Miss Turligood, in extreme astonishment. + +"I do not recognize the authority of the spirits. They have no right to +dictate the uses of my parlor." + +Here was a confession indeed on the part of Miss Prowley. _Not recognize +the authority of the spirits!_ Miss Turligood fairly staggered, when she +heard the impious announcement. The smooth sciolist Stellato rallied his +weak wits and uttered a cry of wonder at such flagitious heresy. The +future Lady Byron, taking as a deliberate insult any doubts of the +identity and authority of her posthumous spouse, threw up her arms in +horror, and trotted out of the house. + +Finally, we got rid of them all,--_how_, I don't exactly remember, and +if I did, it would not concern the reader to know. We delivered Miss +Turligood over to her Irishman, (who had brought a carryall with him +this time,) and charged him never to drive her back; Betty and the cook +were restored to the kitchen; Stellato and Miss Branly disappeared, no +one could say where. + +"And now," exclaimed Colonel Prowley, with a sigh of relief, "let us +forget this nonsense, and go to dinner,--for the spirits have given me +an appetite, if nothing else." + +"Then you intend to follow what I understand to be the teaching of your +invisible visitors," remarked Dr. Burge, pleasantly. + +"How so?" + +"You do not recognize Fast-Day." + +"Ha! ha!" laughed the Colonel; "I doubt if the ghosts were quite +unreasonable about that." + +"Nay, brother, you should tell our good minister that we have but a cold +collation, and that prepared on the previous day, as is our custom on +the Sabbath," urged Miss Prowley, with the dignity of an exact and +consistent housekeeper. + +"It is as well we have," was the reply; "for those precious Indians, +although wise in medicine, knew little enough about cookery. They would +have made sorry work, had it been necessary to give a culinary direction +to the inspirations of our damsels below-stairs." + +"And yet, after all," resumed our host, meditatively, and after a +moment's pause, "it seems scarcely right to make a jest of this matter; +for, although the manifestations of to-day have been ridiculous +enough,--yet--really--when I think of some of those instructive +observations of poor Sir Joseph Barley"---- + +The remark was never concluded, for a sudden rattling and whoaing and +bumping of baggage was heard. The interruption came from before the +front-door. The "Railroad-Omnibus" had driven up to the house. + +"It is, doubtless, my good friend Professor Owlsdarck," said Colonel +Prowley,--courteously rebuking an exclamation of astonishment from his +sister, who had gone to the window;--"to be sure, we did not expect him +to-day, but he is ever a most welcome guest." + +"But it is _not_ Professor Owlsdarck!" cried the sister, in shrillest +tones of feminine amazement. "That portly figure to which the pencil of +the artist has done such feeble justice! the spectacles with the square +glasses! the enormous seal of the Sextons!--it can be but one man!" + +"What! you don't mean"---- + +"Yes, but I _do_ mean! Come and see for yourself!" + +"A ghost in an omnibus! Why, sister, sister, the +Detached--what-you-may-call-it has got into your head,--or, heavens! can +it be that our unbelief is punished with this frightful manifestation?" + +"It is Sir Joseph Barley himself!" ejaculated Miss Prowley. + +"Surrounded by his bank of silver-tunicked attendants?" gasped the +Colonel, in desperate interrogation. + +"No, no, nothing of the kind," said Dr. Burge, assuringly; "he has not +brought even a footman." + +And it _was_ Sir Joseph Barley,--in the flesh,--and in a good deal of +it, too;--Sir Joseph Barley, full to overflowing with talk and +compliments. He had long planned a journey to America, and a surprise to +his Fellow-Sexton in Foxden. The trip had been necessarily postponed +from week to week, and then from month to month. Always expecting to +leave by the next steamer, he had never thought it worth while to write. +Had been on shore exactly nine hours, was delighted with the country, +and had already written the first chapter of a book about it. Was, +nevertheless, surprised to see none of the native Red Men upon the wharf +when the Canada arrived. Should have thought the spectacle would have +been both novel and imposing to them. After dinner, would, with +permission, go into the forests about Foxden, and visit this singular +people in their national wigwams. + +How picture the delight of hospitable Colonel Prowley, when, volubly +delivering these and other sentiments, the High Priest and Potentate +over all Sextondom entered the parlor and made himself comfortable in a +rocking-chair? + +There is no need to dwell upon the matronly bustle of Miss Prowley, who, +utterly ignoring the proper ordinances of the day, proceeded to send to +the hotel for a beefsteak and a bottle of British Stout which could be +warranted of genuine importation. + +"And stop, stop, sister!" whispered the Colonel, pursuing her to the +door; "the idea seems absurd, to be sure, but still don't you think it +barely possible, that, if Betty ran down to the river and caught a few +of those snapping-turtles sunning themselves upon the old log, we might +boil them into something which would faintly remind Sir Joseph of the +Lord Mayor's soup?" + +This proposition being dismissed as impracticable,--first, by reason of +the notorious unwillingness of the turtles to be caught, and, waiving +that objection, because of the length of time it would take to achieve +any passable imitation of the aldermanic dainty,--I was moved to an +_aside_-declaration to the effect that my slight observation of the +tastes of British tourists in the Federal States led to the suggestion +of _oysters_ as delicacies not wholly unlikely to find favor with their +eminent guest. + +An explosion of impulsive gratitude responded to the hint. There was a +new "saloon" just opened in Main Street,--Betty should stop there and +leave a generous order. + +Well! it was some time before we were summoned to our amended dinner; +but, when we did get it, it was a dinner worth waiting for. + +Sir Joseph Barley--Heaven bless him!--knew nothing of that smattering of +Cosmos into which we hungry New-Englanders are wont to thrust our wits. +He bluntly declared that he had never heard of Detached Vitalized +Electricity, Woman's Rights, or Harmonial Development; also, he was +delightfully confident that--he, Sir Joseph Barley, British subject, +_not_ having heard of them--they could not, by any possibility, be worth +hearing about. Moreover, he had not read a word of Carlyle, and +positively did not know of the existence of any English poet called +Browning. Dr. Burge, he thoughtfully suggested, had probably mistaken +the name; it was Byron, or possibly Bulwer, about whom he wished to +inquire. The former of these personages was a British Peer, and a writer +of some celebrity; he was, however, no longer living, having never +recovered from a fever he took at a place called Missolonghi, in +Greece;--the latter had written a book entitled "Pelham," once popular, +but now thought inferior to a series of romances known in Great Britain +as the "Waverley Novels"; these were the work of one Scott, a native of +Edinburgh, whom George IV. honored with a baronetcy,--a splendid +recompense for his great literary industry. + +This, and much other information, adapted to our rude plantation in the +New-England wilderness, did Sir Joseph patronizingly impart. And it was +good to meet a man with a sense of corporeal identity so honest and +satisfactory. A cynic might have said that his mind moved in rather +narrow limits. But then within those limits he was so ruddy and jubilant +that I could not but remember something Shakspeare says about the ease +of being bounded in a nutshell and yet counting one's self king of +infinite space,--were it not for bad dreams. These "bad dreams" had +never retarded the British digestion of Sir Joseph Barley. No American +citizen could, by any possibility, be so shut in measureless content. It +is only a very few of our well-to-do women of the Mrs. Widesworth +class--ladies inclining to knitting and corpulency in the afternoon of +life--who possess the like faculty of warming society with the blaze of +an ecstatic egotism. Well, there are moments--why not confess it? for is +not man body as well as soul?--when it is a relief to get away from our +mystics, system-mongers, and peerers into the future, and claim a +brotherhood after the flesh with your average Briton, who looks out of +his comfortable present only to look into his comfortable past. Yet let +this estate be temporary; for it is well to return to our thin diet, +and, instead of jolly after-dinner talk, repeat the high and aspiring +phrases of certain New-Englanders who lead the generous thought and life +of a continent. Phrases! Yes, but how many nebulous ideas, think you, +would it take to stuff out their hollowness? Nay, my objecting friend, +if the ideas are not wholly clear, nor immediately practicable, they are +seldom shallow, and never mean. If the wisdom of our true seers +sometimes seems poured out in thin dilution, it nevertheless soon +hardens to a thousand shining crystals upon men of worldly enterprise +and grasp. And why this digression? I think its suggestion lay in the +fact that Sir Joseph, being the type of the ordinary Englishman, held +and imparted a fine sunniness of temper, and a perfectly balanced +serenity,--good gifts, which, so far as my experience goes, are +possessed in full measure by only one or two exceptional Americans, and +these men of high and acknowledged genius. + +"I don't understand it, upon my honor," cried our visitor, after we had +endeavored to explain to him his own spiritual intrusion on the previous +evening. "I have heard of Doctor Pordage and the Dragon, and of the +Drummer of Tedworth; but when you tell a sane British subject that his +apparition comes before him, and takes, as it were, the froth off his +welcome"---- + +"No, no, my dear friend," interrupted Colonel Prowley, "you must know +that nothing could do that! As to the obituary I had written, it may do +for some other time,--for, indeed, my felicity in such compositions has +been highly commended, and this by mundane authorities of no common +weight." + +"Let us change the subject," said Sir Joseph, dryly; "I have no wish to +test your powers in that direction; and so long as I don't give up the +ghost, I suppose you must." + +"I would only say this," observed the Colonel,--"that in your book upon +America I hope you will not fail to declare, that, in folly, deception, +and unmitigated humbug, our Foxden spirits exceed all others ever seen +or heard." + +"Sir Joseph Barley would be a foolish chronicler to commit himself to +any such statement," said Dr. Burge, who seemed to feel it his duty to +speak the moral _tag_ to our little Fast-Day interlude. "I cannot allow +that these Foxden manifestations are one whit more silly or equivocal +than many I have seen elsewhere. This shamming the ghost of somebody +still alive is no uncommon deception: several cases of the sort have +come under my recent observation. And it is well that they sometimes +occur; for they must cause reflection in all who are not victims of a +mental disorder which seems to confound the reasoning powers of +man,--causing its subjects to accept as teachers phantoms of their +morbid imaginations, or deceiving intelligences from without. To all, I +say, but such as these, an imposition of the sort here noticed must send +reflections of our total inability to identify any pretended spirit +merely because he flatters our vanity, or talks what may seem _to us_ +good morality or sound sense." + +Dr. Burge had laid aside his knife and fork, and had launched bravely +forth upon his theme. Sir Joseph moved uneasily. Things were getting +serious. Our host happily interposed,-- + +"Very true, Doctor, all very true;--yet there is one piece of wisdom +regulating the spiritual practice which now seems worth considering." + +"And what is that, pray?" + +"They do not recognize Fast-Day." + +"Well, well," said Dr. Burge, taking the hint with the utmost +good-humor, "perhaps they were not altogether wrong there; and so I will +trouble Miss Prowley for a bit more of the steak, and----No, thank you, +no beer for me; I am a water-drinker of twenty years' standing." + +"The toast I am about to propose," observed Colonel Prowley, "may, with +exceeding propriety, be drunk in water,--that is, whenever +milk-and-water is not to be had:-- + +_"Our spiritual demagogues, much weaker than our political ones, may +they not be as much worse!"_ + +"And there is one other sentiment," said good Dr. Burge, brimming over +with an honest hilarity,--"a toast which I should be willing to drink in +pretty strong--coffee." + +"I have not forgotten that," exclaimed our host, proffering a hearty +shake of the hand to the High Senior Governour and Primitive Patriarch +of All Sextons,-- + +_"Health and a long life to Sir Joseph Barley!"_ + + + + +PROSPICE. + + + Fear death?--to feel the fog in my throat, + The mist in my face, + When the snows begin, and the blasts denote + I am nearing the place, + The power of the night, the press of the storm, + The post of the foe; + Where he stands, the Arch Fear in a visible form, + Yet the strong man must go: + For the journey is done and the summit attained, + And the barriers fall, + Though a battle's to fight ere the guerdon be gained, + The reward of it all. + I was ever a fighter, so--one fight more, + The best and the last! + I would hate that Death bandaged my eyes, and forbore, + And bade me creep past. + No! let me taste the whole of it, fare like my peers + The heroes of old, + Bear the brunt, in a minute pay glad life's arrears + Of pain, darkness, and cold. + For sudden the worst turns the best to the brave, + The black minute's at end, + And the elements' rage, the fiend-voices that rave, + Shall dwindle, shall blend, + Shall change, shall become first a peace, then a joy, + Then a light, then thy breast, + O thou soul of my soul! I shall clasp thee again, + And with God be the rest! + + + + +WASHINGTON IRVING. + + +We have, at last, a full story of the life of Mr. Irving. It is from the +hand of a near relative, who has brought to the task an almost filial +reverence, with a modest reserve of language, and a delicacy of +treatment, which, while they disarm criticism, would of themselves +suffice to attest the kinship of the writer with the distinguished +subject of his biography. It is a quiet and tranquil picture that he has +given us, of a serene and tranquil life. As we have turned it over +delightedly, chapter after chapter, and volume upon volume, we have +wished at times that the coy biographer had been endowed with a spice of +garrulity or of egotism; for, say what we will, these qualities +contribute largely to the interest with which we follow the story of a +life about whose incidents and development the public has greed of +knowledge. + +If Boswell had invariably governed his biographic record by the +instincts of a gentleman, we should have possessed far less wealth of +gossip by which to judge of the manhood and the familiar surroundings +of the great lexicographer. And we can readily imagine that a +conscientious man, in setting about the task of writing the life of a +favorite author, would ask himself, over and over, how much should be +yielded to the eager curiosity of the public, and how much a refined +courtesy of feeling should keep in reserve. There are men, indeed, whose +history, by whomsoever recorded, would suggest no such questioning,--men +who have elbowed their way through life, bent upon some single aim, with +a grand and coarse disregard of all the heart-burnings they may have +caused, and all the idols they may have brushed down. Washington Irving +was by no means such a man; he was kind-hearted to the last degree; and +yet, remembering as we do that sly look of humor which lurked always in +the corner of his eye, we cannot believe but that in his freer moments +he has pricked through many a bag of bombast, and made dashing onslaught +upon noisy literary pretension. Of all this, however, we find nothing in +the volumes before us,--nothing in his own books. Always, in his contact +with the world, he is genial; the face of every friend is beautiful to +him; every acquaintance is at the least comely; in rollicking Tom Moore +he sees (what all of us cannot see) a big heart,--in Espartero a bold, +frank, honest soldier,--in every fair young girl a charmer,--and in +almost every woman a fair young girl. + +In all these respects the biography of Mr. Pierre Irving is in fitting +accord with what we had known and believed of his eminent kinsman. And +we are delighted at being confirmed in the belief. We yield all measure +of respect for the grace, the purity, the dignity, which Washington +Irving has added to our literature; and yet we honor still more that +true American heart which beams through all his writings, and throughout +this record of his life. The rare kindliness of the man so hallows and +sublimes his memory that we half forget his artistic power, his purity +of touch, his keenness of observation, his delightful and abounding +humor. + +There are no storms in this life of his: it is, as we have said, a quiet +picture of a career that is full of honor indeed, full of triumphs, but +full of serenity. Here is no Don Quixote searching for enemies with whom +to do battle,--no John Knox thwacking terribly upon all heretical pates, +and sweating with his obstinacy, as much as with the vigor of his blows; +but the kindly gentleman, giving tone and beauty to the common sentiment +of us all, piquing our wonder by his adroitness, kindling our smiles by +his arch sallies, winning our admiration by his thousand graces, and our +respect by his honesty and truth. + +In 1797, Washington Irving, a roguish lad of fifteen, living in William +Street, in New York, and not a little rebellious against the severe +orthodoxy of his father,--who was a deacon of the Presbyterian +Church,--sometimes slipped out from his chamber, after evening prayers, +for an hour or two at the theatre; he attended school, where he stole +the reading of such books as "Robinson Crusoe," and "Sinbad the Sailor"; +and he wrote compositions for such of his fellows as would make good his +tasks in mathematics. This was a study which he never loved, and to the +last he abjured all stringency of method. The writer of this paper +remembers on one occasion asking him what system he pursued in massing +his notes for the "Life of Washington." "Don't ask me for system," said +he; "I never had any. If you want to know what a man can do by +arrangement, talk with B----; his whole mind is pigeon-holed." + +At sixteen we find him in a lawyer's office; he does not, like some of +his brothers, enjoy the advantages (if there be any) of a collegiate +education. But he loves law as little as he loves mathematics. Feeble +health gives occasion for frequent absences and journeyings; and it is +plain to see that he loves a voyage up the Hudson, and adventurous +travel through the wilds of Northern New York, better than he loves +Judge Livingston, or the books of his law-patron, Mr. Hoffman. He has a +scribbling mood upon him at this early day, too, and contributes to the +New-York "Morning Chronicle" certain letters of Jonathan Oldstyle, which +are remarked for their pleasant humor. At the age of twenty-one (1804) +continued ill-health suggests a sea-voyage. He leaves law and his jolly +companions,--Brevoort, Kemble, Paulding, and the rest,--and sails for +Bordeaux. He wanders through Southern Europe delightedly,--meets +Washington Allston at Rome, and is half tempted to turn painter,--sees +Humboldt, De Staël, Cooke, Siddons; and while all England is jubilant +over Nelson's victory, and all England mourning over Nelson's death, he +sails, in 1806, for home. + +Arrived in New York a sound man, he goes through a process of cramming +for admission to the bar, and is presently instated--attorney-at-law. +But at the very time of his examination he is concocting with James +Paulding the project of "Salmagundi," which presently enlivens and +perplexes people with the vagaries of Launcelot Langstaff. A little +after, he plans and commences the Knickerbocker History. + +But meantime an interesting episode of his life is developing, which by +its unfortunate issue is to give a certain color to all after-expression +of his sentiment. While in the family of Mr. Hoffman, as law-student, he +has conceived a strong attachment for his daughter; in certain +memoranda, marked "private," which come under the eyes of the biographer +only after Mr. Irving's death, he says,--"I idolized her. I felt at +times rebuked by her superior delicacy and purity, and as if I was a +coarse, unworthy being in comparison.... I saw her fade rapidly away, +beautiful, and more beautiful, and more angelical to the very last.... I +was by her when she died.... I was the last one she looked upon." The +memorandum from which this extract is taken had been originally written, +it appeared, for the eye of an intimate lady-friend abroad, to whom we +shall have occasion to refer. + +In 1809, at the age of twenty-six, is published his "History of New +York." There were a few punctilious Dutch families who were offended at +its sallies; but cultivated people generally welcomed its fun, its +spirit, its quiet satire, with heartiness and applause. + +Shortly after he entered into a commercial partnership with his +brothers, Peter and Ebenezer, of whom one was established in England, +the other in New York. In the War of 1812 we find him acting as military +aid to Governor Tompkins; and in 1815 he embarks again for Europe. He +passes many years in England, in the course of which time the commercial +firm, of which he is a member goes into bankruptcy. Upon this, he is of +course thrown adrift. But through the influence of his friends at home +he is offered the position of Chief Clerk of the Navy Department, with a +salary of twenty-four hundred dollars a year. This, however, after some +misgivings, he declines. He does not like the idea of being cramped by +official routine of duty. He will try what he can do with his pen. And +for months after making this decision (we have heard it with unction +from his own lips) he can do nothing. His friend Allston is going back +to America; Leslie is making a reputation; and he, a bankrupt, and +having wantonly thrown up the chance for a lucrative position at home, +is suddenly bereft of all capacity for literary work; he makes trial; +but it is in vain. The "Sketch-Book" is floating in his thought; but he +cannot commit its graces to paper. + +The months roll on; something must be done; the secretaryship at home is +abandoned; he must try again; he does try; he sends off "Sketch-Book No. +I." to America. We know what came of it: success, delight. Number upon +number followed. There was an early republication, under the author's +auspices, in London. He was fêted: it was so odd that an American should +write with such control of language, with such a play of fancy, with +such pathetic grace. There was a kind of social _furor_ to meet and to +see the man who, notwithstanding his Transatlantic birth, had conquered +all the witchery of British speech, who knew its possible delicacies of +expression, and who graced it with a humor that reminded of Goldsmith. + +No American author had ever dreamed of such ovation before: an ovation +not due to any incisive thought, not due to any novelty of his +subject-matter,--but due to the fact that a man born overseas had +suddenly appeared among British writers, who could lay hold upon their +own resources of sentiment, and inwrap it in language which charmed them +by its grace and provoked them by its purity. + +Mr. Murray entered upon the publication of the "Sketch-Book" in 1820, +Mr. Irving being at that time thirty-seven years of age. Of his pleasant +intimacy with Sir Walter Scott, of his junketings in Paris, of his +meeting with Tom Moore, of his unfortunate enlistment in a +steamboat-enterprise upon the Seine, there is full and most lively +account in the "Life and Letters" before us. "Bracebridge Hall," +despatched from Paris in 1822, is received with the same favor which had +attended the publication of the "Sketch-Book"; and the pecuniary returns +are so liberal that he can lie upon his oars for a while, and (what +pleases him more) can effectually aid his brother Peter, who was a party +to the unfortunate steamboat-scheme. + +After this comes a merry whirl through Europe. The Rhine, Heidelberg, +Munich, Vienna, we visit again in his sparkling letters, dated forty odd +years ago. His reputation, and the good offices of French and English +friends, open an easy path for him; everywhere he finds hospitality and +acquaintances, and everywhere, by that frank, genial manner of his, he +transmutes even chance acquaintances into confidential friends. The +winter of 1822-3 is passed in the delightful city of Dresden. He meets +with a warm welcome at the little Saxon court; he has the _entrée_ of a +pleasant English household, where he becomes fairly domesticated. Mrs. +Foster, its accomplished mistress, is a lady of fortune, who has two +"lovely daughters." Mr. Irving, in concert with two or three +gentlemen-friends, organizes certain home-theatricals, in which the +Misses Foster engage with ready zeal and a charming grace. There are +Italian readings, and country-excursions, to all of which Mr. Irving is +a delighted party. He hardly knows how to tear himself away from scenes +so enchanting. To Miss Foster he writes, on the occasion of a little +foray into Bohemia,--"I am almost wishing myself back already. I ought +to be off like your bird, but I feel I shall not be able to keep clear +of the cage." Mrs. Foster, with a womanly curiosity, is eager to know +how a man so susceptible as Mr. Irving, and so domestically inclined, +should have reached the mature age of forty as a bachelor. Mr. Irving +amiably gratifies her curiosity by detailing to her the story of his +early and unfortunate attachment, in the shape of the memorandum to +which we have already alluded. He closes this confidential disclosure by +saying,--"You wonder why I am not married. I have shown you why I was +not long since.... My time has now gone by; and I have growing claims +upon my thoughts, and upon my means, slender and precarious as they are. +I feel as if I had already a family to think and provide for." + +We have dwelt upon this little episode, not because it has any essential +importance in itself, but because it has been the subject of a most +unseemly interpolation in the British reprint of the biography. Mr. +Bentley, "Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty," was, it appears, the +purchaser, at a small sum, of the advance-sheets of the book; but, in +order to secure English copyright, he conceived the idea of introducing +extraneous matter of British origin. In prosecution of this design, he +found as _collaborateurs_ the two Misses Foster above alluded to, who +are now wives of clergymen of the Church of England. Mrs. Fuller, the +elder of the sisters, and the special favorite of the author, gives upon +the whole a modest and pleasant account of their association with Mr. +Irving, and closes with a few lines which, she says, he wrote in her +scrap-book in 1832. "He declared it was impossible for him to be less in +a writing-mood." And thereupon follow the well-known lines entitled +"Echo and Silence." They certainly do not prove very much for the +writing-mood of Mr. Irving,--whatever they may prove for Sir Egerton +Brydges. The contribution of the younger sister, Mrs. Flora Dawson, is +in a somewhat exaggerated and melodramatic vein, in the course of which +she takes occasion to expend a great deal of pity upon "poor Irving," +who is made to appear in the character of a rejected suitor for the hand +of her sister. It is true that the testimony of Mr. Irving's biographer, +and of his private papers, is largely against this absurdly romantic +construction; but, although it had been perfectly authentic, it is +almost incredible that a lady of delicacy should make such blazon of the +affair, for the sake of securing a copyright to "Her Majesty's Publisher +in Ordinary." We are sorry that Mrs. Dawson has not made a better +_début_ in literature. As for Mr. Bentley, we can characterize his +conduct in the matter only by the word--disgraceful. In the whole +history of griping literary piracies (of which Americans must bear their +share) we can recall no one which shows so bad a taste, and so bad a +faith, as this of Mr. Bentley, the "Publisher in Ordinary to Her +Majesty." + +In the year 1824 we find Mr. Irving at work in Paris chambers upon the +"Tales of a Traveller"; then follow three or four joyous and workful +years in Spain, between Madrid, Seville, and the Alhambra. We have all +tasted the fruit of that pleasant sojourn; "Columbus" is on every +library-shelf; and we remember a certain dog's-eared copy of the +"Conquest of Granada" which once upon a time set all the boys of a +certain school agog with a martial furor. How we shook our javelins at +some bewildered cow blundering into the play-ground! What piratical +forays we made upon the neighbors' orchards, after the manner of the +brave old Muley Aben Hassan! And as for the Alhambra, the tinkle of the +water in the marble basins of its court is lingering on our ears even +yet. + +In Spain, as elsewhere, Mr. Irving makes a circle of friends about him +whom it is hard to leave; but it must be. Accusing comrades at home say +he has deserted his country; he turns his face Westward at last, and, +full of honors, sails for New York once more, in the year 1832, at the +ripe age of forty-nine. There never was a warmer welcome given to a +returning citizen. A feast is made for him, at which all the magnates of +the city of Manhattan assist; and the author's sensibility is so touched +that he can make only stammering acknowledgments,--at which the cheers +and the plaudits are heartier than ever. + +After this comes the opening of that idyllic life at Sunnyside,--the +building of the gables, the gilding of the weather-cocks, the planting +of the ivies. "Astoria" and "Bonneville" and the "Tour on the Prairies" +keep his hand active and his brain in play. Near and dear relatives +relieve his bachelor home of all loneliness. Nine years or more have +passed after his return, when he is surprised--and not a little +shocked--by his appointment, at the instance of Mr. Webster, as Minister +to Madrid. + +He cannot resist the memories of the Alhambra, of Seville, of the +Guadalquivir. Many pleasant associations are revived in England, in +France, and not a few in the now revolutionary Spain. But it is plain to +see that the official visit is not so enjoyable as the old untrammelled +life in the Peninsula. No matter how light the duties, routine is a +harness that galls him. We can almost hear his cheer of thanksgiving as +he breaks away from it, and comes once more to his cherished home of +Sunnyside. He is not an old man yet, though he counts well into the +sixties. He contrives new additions to his cottage; he dashes off the +charming "Life of Goldsmith" at a heat. His older books come pouring +from the press, and are met with the cordial welcome of new ones. + +His brothers, to whom he had been so fondly knit, are all gone save one; +Brevoort is gone; Kemble is just above him, at his forge, under the lee +of the Highlands. The river by quiet Tarrytown is strung up and down +with new "gentlemen's places." + +He puts himself resolutely at work upon the "Life of Washington." +Frequently recurring illness, and a little shakiness in his step, warn +him that his time is nearly up. He knows it. There is only one more task +to make good. We hear of him at Mount Vernon, at Arlington, at Saratoga. +Volume by volume the work comes forward. The public welcome it,--for +they love the author, and they love the subject. Three volumes,--four +volumes; and there are rumors that the old gentleman is failing. But +whoever finds admission to that delightful home of Sunnyside meets the +old smile, the old cheer. Seventy years have shaken the frame, but have +not shaken the heartiness of the man. The jest leaps from his eye before +his lip can clothe it, as it did twenty years before. There is a +friendly pat for his little terrier, and a friendly word for his +gardener, as in the old days. + +The fifth volume is in progress; but there is a cough that distresses +him sorely. He pushes on, however, through his task. The step is growing +feebler and the cough more annoying. It is the year 1859, and the +seventy-seventh of his age, when, upon a certain November evening, with +one little sharp cry of pain, he falls upon his chamber-floor--dead. + + * * * * * + +There are men whose works we admire, but for whose lives we care +nothing. Mr. Irving was not one of them. There is such a manly +heartiness in him that we crave close contact: we cannot know him too +well. Surely, this sympathy of readers, spontaneous, inevitable, will +keep his name always green. There may come greater purists,--though they +must con the language well; writers of more dramatic power we have now, +possibly a quainter humor,--but one more tender, that puts us in such +immediate sympathy with the author, hardly in our day, or in any day, +shall we see again. + +It is plain enough that Mr. Irving depended largely on his +friendships,--that, unconsciously, his courage for meeting and +conquering whatever of difficulty lay in his path was fed very much by +the encouraging words of those he loved and respected. His were no +brawny shoulders to push their way, no matter what points were galled by +contact,--no self-asserting, irresistible press of purpose, which is +careless of opinion. Throughout, we see in his kindly nature a longing +for sympathy: if from those intellectually strong, so much the better; +if from dear friends, better yet; if from casual acquaintances, still it +is good and serviceable to him, and helps him to keep his poise. + +He is a man, too, who clearly shuns controversy, who does not like to +take blows or to give blows, and whose intellectual life and development +find shape and color from this dread of the combative. Not that he is +without a quiet power and exercise of satire,--not that follies which +strike his attention do not get a thrust from his fine rapier; but they +are such follies, for the most part, as everybody condemns. By reason of +this quality in him, he avoids strongly controverted points in history; +or, if his course lies over them, he gives a fairly adjusted average of +opinion; he is not in mood for trenchant assertions of this or that +belief. This same quality, again, makes him shun political life. He has +a horror of its wordy wars, its flood of objurgation. Not that he is +without opinions, calmly formed, and firmly held; but the entertainment +of kindred belief he does not make the measure of his friendships. His +character counted on the side of all charity, of forbearance, against +harsh judgments; it was largely and Christianly catholic, as well in +things political as literary. He never made haste to condemn. + +There is a rashness in criminating this retirement from every-day +political conflicts which is, to say the least, very short-sighted. +Extreme radicalism spurns the comparative inactivity, and says, "Lo, a +sluggard!" Extreme conservatism spurns it, and says, "Lo, a coward!" It +is only too true that cowards and sluggards both may take shelter under +a shield of indifference; but it is equally true that any reasonably +acute mind, if only charitably disposed, can readily distinguish between +an inactivity which springs from craven or sluggish propensity, and that +other which belongs to constitutional temperament, and which, while +passing calm and dispassionate judgment upon excesses of opinion of +either party, contributes insensibly to moderate the violence of both. + +But whatever may have been Mr. Irving's reluctance to ally himself +intimately with political affairs, and to assume advocacy of special +measures, it is certain that he never failed in open-hearted, outspoken +utterance for the cause of virtue, of human liberty, and of his country. +There were vulgar assailants, indeed, who alleged at one time that he +had thoroughly denationalized himself by his long absences. The charge +he always regarded as an affront, and met with scorn. There are those so +grossly constituted as to measure a man's love of his own country by the +sneers he flings at the country of others. It was not in Mr. Irving's +nature to sneer at even an enemy; it was not his way of making conquest. +He recognized fully the advantages of a foreign life (at his date) in +following up that career of belles-lettres study which he had marked out +for himself. The free _entrée_ of European libraries and galleries, and +familiar association with a class of cultivated men of leisure, (in +countries where such a class exists,) offered opportunity for refining +his taste, for enlarging his stock of available material, and for +stimulating his mental activity, of which he was not slow to perceive +the value, and of which he has given ample account. + +There is much that is interesting in the Life before us in regard to Mr. +Irving's habit of work. He was, like most men of extreme sensitiveness, +moody; at times his mind seemed all aglow; he wrote, on such occasions, +with extraordinary rapidity, and with that cheery appreciation of his +labor which to any author is an immense stimulant. But following upon +these happy humors came seasons of wearisome depression; the stale +manuscript of yesterday lost its charm; the fancy refused to be lighted; +he has not the heart to hammer at the business with dull, lifeless +blows, and flings down his pen in despair. There are successive months +during which this mood hangs upon him like an incubus; then it passes +suddenly, like a cloud, and the air (as at Seville) wooes him to his +charmingest fancies. + +We do not propose a critical estimate of the books of Mr. Irving. We +have neither space nor present temper for this. The world has indorsed +his great popularity with the heart, as much as with the brain. There +are those who have objected that the last subject of his labor--the +"Life of Washington"--was little suited to his imaginative tone of mind, +and should have been worked up with a larger and more philosophic grasp +of thought. It may well be that at some future time we shall have a more +profound estimate of the relations which our great Leader held to his +cause and to his time; but, however profound and just such a work may +be, we feel quite safe in predicting that it will never supplant the +graceful labor of Mr. Irving in the hearts of the American people. +Precisely what was wanted Mr. Irving has given: such charming, faithful, +truthful picture of the great hero of our Revolution as should carry +knowledge of him, of the battles he fought, of his large, self-denying, +unswerving patriotism, of the purity of his life, into every household. +No man could have done this work better; nor do we think any other will +ever do it as well. + +And there is his "Sketch-Book,"--in blue and gold, in green and gold, in +red and gold;--in what colors, and in what language, does it not appear? +Yet the themes are of the simplest: a broken heart; a rural funeral; a +Christmas among the hollies; an hour in the Abbey of Westminster: what +is there new, or to care greatly for, in these things? Yet he touched +them, and all the world are touched by them. Your critic says there is +no serious insight, no deep probing; a pretty wind blows over,--that is +all. + +Yes, that is all; but how many are there who can set such sweet currents +of wind aflow? + +Only a bruised daisy, only a wounded hare, only Halloween,--and Burns, +with all his fresh, healthy, hearty manhood, and only a peasant's pen, +touches them in such way that his touch is making the nerves of men and +women vibrate, where-ever our Saxon speech is uttered. + +There is many a light thing that we cherish,--with which we will not +easily part. That souvenir of some dear, dead one we do not value by its +weight in gold; that sweet story of the Vicar we do not measure by its +breadth of logic. And no American, no matter how late born he may be, +but, if he wander in the Catskills, shall hear the rumble of the Dutch +revellers at their bowling in the gorges of the mountains,--not one but +shall read, and reading shall love, the story of Rip Van Winkle. + +It was only a quiet old gentleman of six-and-seventy who was buried +awhile ago from his home upon the Hudson: yet the village-shops were all +closed; the streets, the houses, the station, were hung in black; +thousands from the city thirty miles away thronged the high-road leading +to the little church where prayers were to be said. + +How shall we explain this? The author is dead, indeed, whose writings +were admired by all; but there is something worthier to be said than +this:--At the little church lay the body of the man whom all men loved. + + + + +THE RIM. + + +PART II. + +Affairs went smoothly and noiselessly on for some three months. Mr. St. +George had received the congratulations of the neighborhood, who, +perceiving that Éloise still remained at The Rim, presumed all was +satisfactory; and Éloise refused herself to all, the better by reason of +her term of mourning. The slaves on the estate no longer infected others +with the result of bad government; their association with the +Blue-Bluffs people, a notoriously bad set, as well they might be, was +broken up; they felt, though the reins hung freely and the burden was +light, that there was a strong hand behind them that knew how to pull +them up or put them in the dust, and they learned so much respect and +even love for that hand as never to presume on the fact that it would +not perhaps choose to exert its full power; work was well done; there +was no further trespassing on other precincts; the world was in perfect +order, so far as St. George's administration of it extended. He was, +moreover, a man of distinction; serving, young as he was, four terms in +Congress from a distant district, he was already spoken of again as the +candidate of the immediate vicinity; his advice was sought in a hundred +matters about which he knew nothing at all,--and always given, in spite +of the last-mentioned circumstance; he had a careless, easy way of +taking the life out of a man's mouth, so to speak, and disposing of it +for that man's advantage as he himself pleased, so that the man felt +under an infinite obligation; he had, too, an air with him of such +superiority over the ills of life, such undoubted kingliness, that every +one succumbed and rested gladly on so firm a precedent. Mr. St. George +in this brief time had accepted much hospitality, had won a thousand +friends, and by Christmas had made himself, through his genial strength +to-day and his sardonic sarcasm to-morrow, as thoroughly the autocrat of +all the region as ever Mr. Erne had been. For all that men want is a +master; give them somebody that will lead, and glad enough are they to +follow. But Mr. Erne's supremacy had merely been a matter of birth and +of kindly feeling; Mr. St. George's was, first, because he choose to +have it, and secondly, because nobody was able to refuse it. Marlboro's +masterliness was quite another thing, affected no clusters of men, and +was felt only by those whom he owned, body and soul. + +In the mean time, the family seldom saw Mr. St. George, and when they +did, he was so stately that they would have been quite willing to shut +their eyes. They forgot, however, that, when you insist on being +yourself an iceberg, you really cool the air about you. Once, indeed, or +twice, there had been brief, but notable exceptions in his conduct. + +A period of heavy rains had just elapsed, and Éloise, weary of +confinement, had gone on the first clear day strolling round the place, +as secure as in a drawing-room, since there was not one of her father's +people but adored her. + +"You are going out, Miss Changarnier?" Mr. St. George had remarked at +the door; and, on being answered, he had added in a soliloquy, as if not +deigning a second address for a second rebuff,--"It will be quite +impossible to go far, for the freshet has swollen the brooks into +rivers." + +Éloise, however, took no notice of the information, and went on her way, +strolled farther than she had intended, and forded a brook because Mr. +St. George had said she could not. Then she sat down under a branching +tree that dropped its leaves about her and into the brook, and began to +read the "Romaunt of the Rose": at least, I fancy that was the book she +had. While she remained, the brook swirling ever louder between the +pauses, the sunset ran red in the sky and warned her to hasten home. But +she disregarded the warning till purple shadows fell softly on the page, +and stars and moon stole out to peer above her shoulder and see what it +was that so entranced the maiden. Rising hurriedly, she moved away; and +only when she had crossed two or three of the stepping-stones did she +perceive, on looking down, that, while she had been reading, the water +had risen above the next ones with a depth that the failing light +forbade her to see. Standing there, and bending dizzily forward to guess +the strength of the dark stream now so loudly and rapidly rushing by, +there came a noise like a bursting water-spout; suddenly her waist was +seized, and she was swept back to the shore. The next instant, with a +seething sound, a great uprooted oak tore along the very spot on which +she had stood. + +"Seeking danger for the pleasure of escape?" said a cool voice in her +ear, as her feet were planted on dry land. "A little excitement spices +our still life so well!" + +"Mr. St. George! how dare you?" cried Éloise, freeing herself. + +"What would you have had me do? Should I have stood here, letting I dare +not wait upon I would, like the cat i' the adage, while the oak caught +and rushed you off to sea? Too big a broomstick for such a little +witch!" + +"You should not have been here at all, Sir!" + +"There shall be thanks in all the churches, next Sunday, that I was." + +"At least, Sir, I can spare further aid." + +"Play Undine and the Knight on the island? It wouldn't be at all +safe,--it wouldn't be proper, you know," said Mr. St. George, raising +his eyebrows. "The dam that shuts up the irrigating waters broke an hour +ago," added he, in the tone of another person. "I sent servants to find +you, in every direction, and happened this way myself." + +Éloise was a little sobered. + +"I am much obliged to you, Sir," she said. + +"So it seems," he replied, dryly. "I shall be forced to offend you +again," he continued, "as further delay will render the stream entirely +impassable." + +And before she could utter a syllable of deprecation, she had swung a +brief moment in the air, and was upon the other side, up which Mr. St. +George, in his high seven-league boots, clambered so soon as he had set +her down. Instead of venturing any new display of indignation, as St. +George expected, Éloise walked on with him quietly a moment, and then, +looking up, said,-- + +"You are very kind, and I am very ungracious." + +Mr. St. George did not deny her assertion, only he glanced down at her +from his height a second with an inexplicable expression, and +immediately after the house became visible bowed low and left her. + +"There's been such a tantrum, Miss," said the quadroon Hazel, combing +out Éloise's hair that night, "and Massa St. George's horse waited two +mortal hours to take him to Blue Bluffs. You ought to have heard him +swear! He galloped off at last like mad." + +And as Éloise gave no response, unless the cloud on her face spoke for +her in the glass, the familiar girl added,-- + +"Not at you, Miss, not swearing at you,--oh, no, indeed!--but at all of +us, to think we'd let you go alone." + +"Mr. St. George is too solicitous. That will do, Hazel. Have you spoken +to your master about buying Vane?" + +"Laws, Miss, I never feels as if he was any master of mine, leastwise +excep' one can't help minding him. 'S different from ole Massa,--we +minded ole Massa for lub,--but I dunno if it's the music, when Massa St. +George speaks, that makes you do what he says, when you just don't mean +to,--as if you couldn't help it, and didn't want to help it?" suggested +Hazel. + +"Mr. St. George," said Éloise, "is very good to his people; they ought +to wish to obey him." + +"Yes, Miss. On'y he a'n't no business _here_." + +"Don't let me hear you speak so again, Hazel," said Éloise, facing the +suddenly cringing girl. "Now you can go." + +But Hazel lingered still, over one and another odd trifle, and at length +glancing up from where she stooped, with a scarlet on her young tawny +cheek, she added, in a low voice,-- + +"You'll speak to Massa St. George now for me, won't you, Miss?" + +"What? About Vane? You would do better yourself. Yes." + +Two or three days passed away after this little promise to Hazel, before +Éloise, at first forgetting it, and then dreading it, could gather +courage to proceed in the negotiations for the handmaiden's suit. She +was vaguely aware that she was the last person in the world whose past +conduct harmonized with the asking of favors, and she silently offered +slight propitiatory sacrifices. Yet she did this so haughtily, in order +still not to compromise her own dignity, that they would quite as well +have answered the purpose of belligerent signals. + +It was one afternoon that Éloise sat at the drawing-room window, having +recently finished her day's work, and letting herself linger now in a +place which she very rarely so much as passed through. She sat erect, +just then,--her head thrown far back, and the eyelids cast down along +the pale face. Mr. St. George came into the room noiselessly, and laid +down his riding-whip and gloves. Then he paused, struck by her +appearance, and admired her motionless attitude for several minutes. + +"One sits for Mnemosyne," he said then. + +Éloise lifted her eyes, and a ghost of color flitted along her cheek. +Here was a fortunate moment; the deity of it unbent and smiled. Her +heart beat in her throat between the words of her thought; yet she +recalled, for support, all the romances she had read, and their eloquent +portraitures of love, and, remembering that just as Rebecca loved +Ivanhoe, as Paolo loved Francesca, so Hazel and Vane loved each other, +"I must! I must!" she kept saying chokingly to herself. Mr. St. George +had taken up a book. How should she dare disturb him? At last a +hesitating voice came sliding towards him,-- + +"Mr. St. George"---- + +"I beg your pardon,--did you speak?" he asked, closing his book. + +"Mr. St. George, I want to ask you a favor," replied Éloise. + +She rose, and unconsciously with such an air that he saw her effort, +then came and sat on a lower seat directly before him. + +"When papa, when my dear father was living," said she, "I had a maid, +who was always mine, who grew up with me, being only a little younger, +and I became attached to her"---- + +And before Éloise knew it she was lightly playing with Mr. St. George's +riding-whip,--that being one of her warm traits just out of Nature, the +appropriation of everything about her. + +"And you have her no longer? That shall be attended to." + +"Oh, yes, Sir, she waits on me still; that isn't it. She is only +seventeen, she has been an atom wayward,--just, you know, as I might +have been"---- + +Mr. St. George smiled so perceptibly that Éloise added, throwing back +her head again,-- + +"Just as I _am_, Sir! But she has behaved very nicely for +several----Why, this is Mrs. Arles's whip! the one her husband gave her. +I knew it by the ivory vine-stem twining the ebony; and there are her +initials in the lovely gold chasing. I used to want it to play with, +when I was a little girl,--and she wouldn't let me have it, of course. +Pretty initials!" + +"Yes," said Mr. St. George, coldly. + +Éloise put it down. And then she stared at him forgetfully, and, +unthinkingly, with great disappointed eyes. Thereat Mr. St. George +laughed. + +"Don't Russian women present the knout to their bridegrooms?" asked +Éloise then, mischievously. + +But before he could have replied, she resumed,-- + +"Well, Sir, Hazel is very pretty"---- + +"It is Hazel, then? Would you like her to be made more distinctly yours, +Miss Éloise?" + +"Oh, dear, no, Sir, thank you. That isn't it at all. Hazel is in love." + +"Indeed!" + +"She is in love with Vane, a boy of Mr. Marlboro's: you may have seen +him; he is here a good deal,--by stealth: and they want to be married. +But Mr. Marlboro' is their terror, he may put an end to everything, and +they are afraid, and--and--could you buy Vane, Mr. St. George?" + +"I could, Miss Changarnier." + +"And you will, then?" cried Éloise, springing up. + +"If Mr. Marlboro' will sell him." + +"Won't he?" + +"It is a pride of the Marlboro's that there never was a hand sold off +the place." + +"Oh, I had forgotten. They would tell too shocking stories." + +"Not here. Not unless they were sold off the Cuban plantation, where the +vicious ones are transported." + +"But perhaps he would give him to you." + +"Miss Éloise, he would give him to _you_." + +"Me? I have never seen him." + +"That is of no consequence. He has seen you." + +"I wonder where. Do you really suppose that Mr. Marlboro' would give +Vane to me?" + +"Miss Éloise, I will see what I can do about it first." + +"How kind you are! Thank you!" + +And Éloise was about to go. + +"One moment, if you please," said the other. + +And Mr. St. George remained in meditation. When he spoke, it was not in +too assured a tone. + +"I am quite aware," said he, "that you consider me in the light of an +enemy. Perhaps it is a magnanimity that would be pleasant to you, should +you in turn grant that enemy a favor." + +"I should like to be able to serve you, Sir." + +"Well, then,--I spoke very unwisely a few moments since,--promise me +now, that, if Hazel and Vane do not marry till Doomsday, you will not +ask Marlboro' for the gift. It places you, an unprotected girl, too much +under the weather with such a man as Marlboro'. You promise me?" + +And he rose opposite her, smiling and gazing. + +"A whole promise is rash," said Éloise, laughing. "Half a one I give +you." + +"It is for yourself," said Mr. St. George, grimly; and he turned +abruptly away, because he knew he lied, and was afraid lest she would +know it too. + +It was two or three weeks after this, that Mr. St. George, returning one +chilly night from some journey, found Mrs. Arles asleep in her chair, a +fire upon the hearth, and Éloise sitting on the floor before it with her +box and brushes, essaying to catch the shifting play of color opposite +her, and paint there one of the great cloven tongues of fire that went +soaring up the chimney. + +"In pursuit of an _ignis-fatuus_?" asked he, stooping over her an +instant, and suddenly snatching himself erect, as she looked up with a +certain sweetness in her smile, and pushed back the drooping tress, +that, streaming along the temple and lying in one large curve upon the +cheek, sometimes fell too low for order, though never for grace. + +"And all in vain," she said, laughingly. "I've worked an hour, I can get +the violet edges, I can get the changing bend,--but there 'a no lustre, +no flicker,--I can't find out the secret of painting flame." + +"It is a secret you found out long ago!" muttered Mr. St. George, +unintelligibly, and strode out, banging the door behind him. + +And Éloise, astonished and dismayed, abruptly put up her pencils, and +went to bed. + +So that, when Mr. St. George returned a half-hour afterward for a +cheerful fireside-season over nuts and wine, there was nobody there but +Mrs. Arles, who picked herself up out of her nap, and went placidly on +with her tatting and contrivances. + +Two stragglers on the ice-fields of the polar seas would have met each +other with less frozen chill than St. George and Éloise did on the +succeeding morning. And in that chill a long period elapsed, during +which Mr. St. George attended to his affairs, and Éloise silently cast +up her accounts. + + * * * * * + +One morning in the spring, after the last of the soft and balmy winter, +Mr. St. George said to Mrs. Arles, at breakfast,-- + +"A dozen rooms, or more, can be ready by Wednesday? There will be guests +at noon, for several weeks. That is the list. I rely on Miss +Changarnier's assistance." And he handed her a paper, and went out. + +"It will be useless for you to keep your room now," said Mrs. Arles to +Éloise, on Wednesday morning. "It isn't like Mr. St. George's bachelor +parties with Marlboro' and Montgomery and Mavoisie, when I like to see +you keep to yourself as you do. These are all old friends." + +"I shall still have my work to do," said Éloise; and she went into the +cabinet and sharpened her pens with a _vim_. + +It would doubtless have relieved Mr. St. George of much annoyance and +perplexity, if Éloise would have assumed her old place in welcoming the +guests; but that was not set down in her part, and Éloise rightly felt +that it would be a preposterous thing for her to do. And though, when +she heard their voices in the hall, she longed just to open the door and +give one glance at Laura Murray sweeping by, or draw Lottie Humphreys in +through the crack and indulge in one quick squeeze, she heroically bent +herself upon the debit and credit beneath her eye, and tried to forget +all about it,--succeeding only in remembering who had lived and who had +died since the last time that hall had rung with their voices. + +It was past noon when Éloise, having finished her task, and having +remained for a long time with her arms upon the desk and her hands upon +her eyes, suddenly glanced up and saw a gentleman entering the cabinet, +where no gentleman but one was ever allowed to enter. He was in search +of a book; and scanning the shelves, his eye fell on her. + +He hesitated for a single atom of time, then stepped rapidly forward, +and said,-- + +"Miss Changarnier, I am quite sure." + +"Allow me," said quickly another voice at his shoulder, "to present to +Miss Changarnier Mr. Marlboro'." For Mr. St. George had entered just in +time. + +Mr. Marlboro' was a slight man, hardly to be called tall. He wore black, +of course, the coat fastened on the breast and letting out just a +glimpse of ruffled linen and glancing jewel below, while the lofty brow, +set in its fair curling hair, and the peaked beard curling and waving +about the throat, gave him the appearance of a Vandyck stepped from the +frame. He had the further peculiarity of eyes, dark hazel eyes, that +would have glowed like fever, if they were not perpetually wrapped in +dream. There was a certain air of careful breeding about him, different +from Earl St. George Erne's high-bred bearing, inasmuch as he insisted +upon his pedigree and St. George forgot his. Too fiery a Southerner to +seek the advantages of Northern colleges, he had educated himself in +England, and had contracted while at Oxford the habit of eating opium. +Returning home at his majority, and remaining long enough to establish +his own ideas, which were peculiarly despotic, upon his +property,--through many subsequent travels, tasting in each an +experience of all the folly and madness the great capitals of the world +afford, through all his life, indeed, this habit was the only thing +Marlboro' had not mastered. One other thing, albeit, there was, of which +Marlboro' was the slave, and that was the Marlboro' temper. + +Éloise returned his salutation cordially, and with a certain naughty +pleasure, since Mr. St. George was looking on, and since that person, +constituting himself her grim guardian, had in a manner warned her of +the other. Then she displayed her pretty little ink-stained hands, and +ran away. + +Mr. Marlboro' looked after her, and then turned to survey St. George. + +"Who would not be the Abélard to such an Éloise?" he said. + +There was no answer. St. George was filling a pipe, and whistling the +while a melancholy old tune. + +"I'll tell you what, St. George"---- + +Here he paused, and thrummed on the book in time to the tune. + +"You were about to impart some information?" + +"Has your little nun taken the black veil?" + +"It is no nun of my shriving." + +"Are you King Ahasuerus himself, to have lived so long in the house with +Miss Changarnier, may I ask, and to have thrown no handkerchief?" + +"There is some confusion in your rhetoric. But it is not I who am +tyrant,--it is she who stands for that;--I am only Mordecai the Jew +sitting in the king's gate. As so many Jews do to-day," muttered St. +George,--"ay, and on their thrones, too. I am afraid we are neither of +us very well up in our Biblical history. She is the Grand +Unapproachable." + +"_Tant mieux._ My way is all the clearer." + +"Your way to what?" + +"To the altar!" + +"Yes, you should have married long ago, Marlboro'," said Mr. St. George, +the pipe being lighted, the face looming out of azure wreaths, and the +heels taking an altitude. + +"I came home," said Marlboro', "to marry Éloise Changarnier." + +"That is exactly what I intend to do myself." + +"You!" + +Mr. Marlboro's eyes glistened like a topaz in the sun; but just then a +new guest arriving demanded Mr. St. George's attention. + +Meantime Éloise had found a feminine conclave assembled in her room, all +having prepared their own toilets, and ready to inspect the preparation +of hers; and as the work proceeded, Lottie Humphreys added herself to +the group, in grand _tenue_, and pushed Hazel aside, that she might bind +up Éloise's already braided hair, and indulge herself in the interim +with sundry fervent ejaculations. + +"Isn't he splendid?" whispered Lottie, while Laura compared bracelets +with Emma Houghton. "Oh, there, isn't he splendid? It's like the king +coming down from his throne, when he speaks to you; it puts my heart in +a flutter. How do you dare ask him to pass the butter? Now just tell +_me_. Are you engaged to him? Tell me truly, only shake your head, yes +or no. No? I don't believe a word you say. Mean to be? Then, I +declare----Suppose now, only just suppose, suppose he'd look at me?" + +"Oh, what a silly little goose you are, Lottie Humphreys! And you've put +geraniums in my hair, when I meant to wear those beautiful blue +poison-bells!" + +"I never saw any one so dark as you are wear so much blue." + +"But it's becoming to me, isn't it?" said Éloise, turning with her +smile, as radiant for Lottie as for Marlboro'. + +"St. George," said Marlboro', with a beaming face bent over his +shoulder, as he took Éloise out to dinner, "my intention was the +earlier; it will succeed!" + +"As being the eldest born and heir to the succession. Does the good +general expose his campaign?" + +"There we are quits. It is precisely as a good general that I exposed +it." + +"But did the Levites unveil the sacred ark?" said Mr. St. George, +severely. + +"We are talking freemasonry, Miss Changarnier," said Marlboro', and they +moved on. + + * * * * * + +Whether she would or not, Éloise found herself in exactly the same +position in the house as before her adopted father's death,--partly +because almost all the company, being old friends, recognized no +difference, partly because Mr. St. George silently chose it should be +so. She soon forgot herself entirely in the pleasure of it, and was +unconsciously, even towards Mr. St. George, so sweet and genial, so +blithe and bewitching, that his scanning glance would suddenly have to +fall, since an expression, he felt, entered it that he dared not have +her see. There was always a certain disarray about the costume of +Éloise; one tress of her hair was always drooping too low, or one thrust +back behind the beautiful temple and tiny ear, or a bracelet was half +undone, or a mantle dropping off,--trifles that only gave one the desire +to help her; she constantly wore, too, a scarf or shawl, or something of +the kind, and the drapery lent her a kind of tender womanliness, which +only such things do; then, too, she garnished her hair with flowers +always half falling away, somewhat faded with the warmth, and emitting +strong, rich fragrances in dying. When she laughed, and the brilliant +little teeth sparkled a contrast with the dark smooth skin, when she +thought, and her eyes glowed like tear-washed stars, Mr. St. George was +wont to turn abruptly away from the vision, unwilling to be so +controlled. But of that Éloise never dreamed. + +As for Marlboro', on the other hand, he was the moth in the candle. Of +Mr. Marlboro's devotion Éloise was quite aware,--and whereas, playing +with it the least bit in the world, she had at first enjoyed it, it grew +to irk her sadly; she used to beg her friends, in all manner of pretty +ways, to take him off her hands, and would resort from her own rooms to +theirs, assisting at their awful rites, and endeavoring to get them up +as charmingly as possible, that they might lure away her trouble. It was +in vain that Marlboro' tried to reopen the subject of their mute warfare +with St. George. St. George would not condescend, neither would he sully +Éloise's name by bandying it about with another lover. If Marlboro' +begged him to toss up for chances, St. George answered that he never +threw up a chance; when he went further and offered to stake success or +loss, St. George told him he had cast his last die; when he would have +spoken her name to him directly, St. George withered him with flamy +eyes, and let his manner become too rigid for one to dare more with him. +But the ladies had already caught the spirit of the thing, and made +little situations of it among themselves. Then when St. George became +impregnable to his attacks, Marlboro' pulled his blonde moustache +savagely, and grew sullen, and fortunately Éloise did not try to dispel +the cloud. Nevertheless, Marlboro' fancied that he perceived victory +hovering nearer to St. George than himself, and a rivalry begun in +good-humor was likely to take a different cast. In his pique, Marlboro' +bade his host farewell, and returned to Blue Bluffs; but it was idle +riding, for every day found him again at The Rim, like the old riddle,-- + + "All saddled, all bridled, all fit for a fight," + +and constant as the magnet to its poles. + +It was still the steps of Éloise that Marlboro' haunted. Yesterday, he +brought songs to teach her, and among them the chant to which long ago +they had once listened together in the old Norman cathedral; to-morrow, +he would show her a singular deposit on the beach, of rare silvery +shells underflushed with rose, kept there over a tide for her eyes; +to-day, he treated her to politics condensed into a single phrase whose +essence told all his philosophy:--"The great error in government," he +said, "is also inversely the great want in marriage: in government, +individuality should be supreme; in marriage, lost. In government, this +error is a triple-headed monster: centralization, consolidation, union." + +Mr. St. George heard him, and paused a moment before them, one evening, +as Marlboro' thus harangued Éloise. + +"Consolidation? Centralization?" said he. "The very things we all +oppose." + +"Nullification is a good solvent." + +"A ghost that is laid. There's a redder phantom than that on the +horizon, man!" + +"What are you talking about, politics or marriage?" + +"God forbid that I should soil a lady's ears with the first!" said Mr. +St. George, bowing to Éloise; "and as to the last,--I'll none of it!" + +And after Mr. Marlboro' had gone that night, as Éloise was about to +ascend to her own rooms, Mr. St. George came along again, and, lightly +taking the candle, held up the tiny flame before her face. + +"What has that _contrabandista_ been saying to you?" demanded Mr. St. +George. + +Éloise looked ignorantly up. + +"Gilding hell? Do not believe him! Never believe anything any one says, +when you know he is in love with you! Slavery is a curse! a curse that +we inherit for the sins of those drunken Cavaliers, our forefathers! Let +us make the best of it!" + +"Ah, Mr. St. George," said she, gayly, "this from you, for whom the +disciples claim Calhoun's mantle? For what, then, do you contend?" + +"For the right of being a free man myself! for the right of enduring +the dictation of no man in Maine or Louisiana! for the right to do as I +have the mind!" exclaimed Mr. St. George, in a ponderous and suppressed +under-voice that rang through her head half-way up-stairs. + +Long before, Mr. St. George had very courteously begged Éloise to take a +vacation during the stay of their friends, but she had so peremptorily +and utterly refused to do so that it ended by his spending the long +morning with her in the cabinet, either over certain neglected arrears, +or while she wrote letters under his royal dictation, and Hazel sewed a +laborious seam between them, as always. Here, at length, after +sufficient tantalization by its means, Marlboro' venturously intruded +himself every day. Too familiar for interruption, he took another seat, +and watched her swift hand's graceful progress. If her pen delayed, she +found another awaiting her,--her posture wearied, a footstool was rolled +towards her feet,--her side cramped, behold, a cushion,--she looked for +fresh paper, it fell before her: all somewhat slavish service, and which +Hazel could have rendered as well. Used to slaves, would she have +preferred a master? Whether Miss Changarnier relished these abject +kindnesses better than Mr. St. George's imperious exactions was +precisely the thing that puzzled the two gentlemen. + +Meanwhile, during all this gay season, if Éloise had thought of once +looking about her, which she never did, she would have seen, that, in +whatever group she was, there, too, was Mr. St. George,--that, if they +rode three abreast down the great park-avenues, though she laughed with +Evan Murray, it was to Mr. St. George's horse that her bridle was +secured,--and that, when she sang, it was St. George who jested and +smiled and lightly talked the while,--not that her music was not sweet, +but that its spell was too strong for him to endure beneath his mask. +Yet Éloise drew no deductions; if at first she noticed that it was he +who laid the shawl on her shoulders, if she remembered, that, when he +fastened her dropping bracelet, biting his lip and looking down, he held +the wrist an instant with a clasp that left its whitened pressure there, +she remembered, too, that he never spoke to her, were it avoidable, that +he failed in small politenesses of the footstool or the fan, and that, +if once he had looked at her in an instant's intentness of singular +expression, and let a smile well up and flood his eyes and lips and +face, in a heart-beat it had faded, and he was standing with folded arms +and looking sternly away beyond her, while she caught herself still +sitting there and bending forward and smiling up at him like a flower +beneath the sun;--to atone for her remissness, she was frowning and cool +and curt to Earl St. George for days. + + * * * * * + +It was about this time, that, one night, when Hazel passed the tea, +Éloise's eye, wandering a moment, suddenly woke from a little apathy and +observed that there was no widow's cap on Mrs. Arles's hair, that it had +refined away through various shades of lace till at last even the +delicate cobweb on the back of the head was gone and the glossy locks +lay bare, that the sables had become simply black gauze over a steely +shine of silk, that the little Andalusian foot lay relieved on a white +embroidered cushion, that its owner was glancing up and smiling at a +gentleman who bent above her, and that that gentleman was Mr. St. +George. When this change had taken place, and whether it had been abrupt +or gradual, her careless eye could not tell; and, forgetting her own +part momentarily in order to take in the whole of the drama in which +they were all acting, Éloise spilled her tea and made some work for +Hazel. As the girl rectified her mishap, it flashed on Éloise that she +had done nothing more about her suit; she noticed, too, how pale Hazel +was, and how subdued and still in all her movements; she remembered that +probably Vane had found it impossible to see her and to elude his +ever-present master; and she thereupon availed herself of his first +disengaged moment to stand at Mr. St. George's side, and ask him if he +had ever thought again of a request she had once made him. + +"I was thinking of it at this moment," he replied, looking at her with +something like sunshine suffusing the brown depth of his eyes; "but the +truth is, I am not on such terms with Marlboro' that I may demand a +favor." + +"Then _I_ shall." + +"On your peril!" he cried, with hasty rigor. + +But Éloise escaped, trailing one end of her scarf behind, looking back +at him, laughing, and shaking her threatening fan as he stepped after +her. And then Mr. St. George resumed his haughty silence. + +Éloise went down the hall after Hazel. She found her in the empty +dining-room, having just set down the salver; the last light, that, +stealing in, illumined all the paintings of clusters of fruit and +bunches of flowers upon the white panelling, had yet a little ray to +spare for the girl where she crouched with her sobs, her apron flung +above her head; and when Éloise laid her hand gently on her shoulder, +she sprang as if one had struck her. + +"Oh, Miss 'Loise! Miss 'Loise! I'm in such trouble!" she gasped. + +It did not take long for the little story to find the air. Vane and +Hazel, secure of Éloise's efforts, had married. It was one of the +immutable Blue Bluffs laws that they had broken: there were no marriages +allowed off the place there. Vane was expiating his offence no one knew +where, and there were even rumors that he had already been sent away to +the Cuban plantation of the Marlboro's, whither all refractory slaves +were wont to journey. + +Éloise went slowly back to the drawing-room, then out upon the piazza, +and with her went that bending grace that accompanied her least motion, +and always reminded you of a flower swaying on its stem. Mr. Marlboro' +leaned there, listening to Miss Murray's singing within. Éloise went and +took her place beside him, while his face brightened. He had been eating +opium again, and his eyes were full of dreams. From where they stood +upon the piazza they could see the creek winding, a strip of silvery +redness, along the coast, and far in the distance where it met the sea, +a film upon the sky, rose the dim castellated height of Blue Bluffs, +like an azure mist. + +"There is something there that I want," said Éloise, archly, looking at +the Bluffs. + +"There? you shall not wish twice." + +Then Hazel approaching, as by signal, offered Mr. Marlboro' a cup, which +he declined without gesture or glance, while there gleamed in her eye a +subtle look that told how easy it would have been to brew poison for +this man who had such an ungodly power over her fate. + +"That is my little maid," said Éloise. "I have lent her to Mrs. Arles +awhile, though. Is she not pretty,--Hazel?" + +"That is Hazel, then? A very witch-hazel!" + +"Yes." + +"And you want Vane?" + +"Yes, Mr. Marlboro'." + +"I did not know she was your maid. But the offence of Vane, if +overlooked, would be a breach of discipline entailing too hazardous +effects. Authority should never relax. What creeps through the iron +fingers once can creep again. The gentle dews distilling through the +pores of the granite congeal in the first frost and rend the rock. I +would have difficulty, Miss Éloise, in pardoning such an offence to you, +yourself. Ah, yes, that would be impossible, by Heaven!" + +Éloise laughed in her charming way, and said,-- + +"But, Mr. Marlboro', would it not be an admirable lesson to your people, +if Vane were sold?" + +"A lesson to teach them all to go and do likewise, eh, Marlboro'?" said +St. George, passing, with Miss Humphreys on his arm. + +"I have never sold, I never sell, a slave," replied Marlboro', in his +placid tone; but St. George was out of hearing. "Yet, Miss +Éloise,--if--if you will accept him"---- + +"Mr. Marlboro'! Indeed? Truly indeed? How happy you make me!" + +"And you can make me as happy,--happier, by the infinity of heaven over +earth!" + +"But ought I to accept such a gift?" asked Éloise, oblivious of his last +speech. "But can I?--may I?"--as St. George's warning stole into her +memory. + +"Most certainly you can! most certainly you shall! he is yours!" And +before Éloise could pour forth one of her multitudinous thanks, he had +moved away. + +Marlboro's, however, was not that noble nature that spurns to beg at the +moment when it grants. Directly, he had wheeled about, and with an eager +air was again beside her. + +"And, Éloise," he said, "if in response I might have one smile, one +hope"---- + +Thoughtlessly enough, Éloise turned her smiling face upon him, and gave +him her hand. + +"And you give it to me at last, this hand, to crown my life!" he +said,--for to his excited brain the trifling deed seemed the weighty +event, and when he looked up Éloise still was smiling. Only for a +second, though, for her processes of thought were not instantaneous, +while to him it was one of Mahomet's moments holding an eternity, and +she smiled while she was thinking, thinking simply of her little +handmaiden's pleasure. She tried to release her hand. But Mr. Marlboro' +did not know that his grasp upon it was that of a vice, for under an +artificial stimulus every action is as intense as the fired fancy +itself. And as she found it impossible to free it without visible +violence, other thoughts visited Éloise. Why should she not give it to +him? Who else cared for it? What object had her lonely life? Speak +sweetly as they might, what one of her old gallants forgot her loss of +wealth? Here was a man to make happy, here was a heart to rest upon, +here was a slave of his own passions to set free. Why should she +continue to live with Mr. St. George for her haughty master, when here +was this man at her feet? Why, but that suddenly the conviction smote +her that she loved the one and despised the other, that she adored the +master and despised the slave? And she snatched away her hand. + +Just then Mr. St. George was coming down the piazza again, on his +promenade, his head bent low as he spoke to the clinging little lady on +his arm. Passing Éloise, as he raised his face, their eyes met. She was +doing, he thought, the very thing that he had disadvised, and, as if to +warn her afresh, he looked long, a derisive smile curling his proud lip. +That was enough. "He knows it!" exclaimed Éloise to herself. "He +believes it! He thinks I love him! He never shall be sure of it!" And +turning once more, her face hung down and away, she laid her hand in +Marlboro's, without a word or a glance. He bent low over it in the +shadow, pressing it with his fervent lips, murmuring, "Mine! mine at +last! my own!" And St. George saw the whole. + +Just then a little sail crept in sight from where they stood, winding +down the creek at the foot of the lawn. + +"Oh, how delightful to be on the water to-night!" cried Laura Murray. + +"You have but to command," said Mr. St. George, with a certain gayety +that seemed struck out like sparks against the flinty fact of the late +occurrence,--and half the party trooped down the turf to the shore. The +boats were afloat and laden before one knew it. Mr. Marlboro' and Éloise +were just one instant too late. Laura Murray shook a triumphant +handkerchief at them, and St. George feathered his oar, pausing a moment +as if he would return, and then gave a great sweep and his boat fairly +leaped over the water. + +Mr. Marlboro' did not hesitate. There was the sail they had first seen, +now on the point of being lowered beneath the alder-bushes by the young +hunters who had sought shore for the night. Gold slipped from one hand +to another, a word, a name, and a promise. Éloise was on board, +expecting Mrs. Arles and Mrs. Houghton to follow. Marlboro' sprang upon +the end, and drew in the rope behind him, waving the other ladies a +farewell; the sails were stretched again, the rudder shipped, and wing +and wing they went skimming down the channel, past the little fleet of +wherries, ploughing the shallow current into foam and spray on their +wild career. + +"Marlboro' is mad!" said St. George, with a whitening cheek. + +Marlboro', standing up, one arm about the mast, and catching the slant +beam of the late-rising moon on his face, that shone awfully rapt and +intent, saluted them with an ironical cheer, and dashed on. Éloise held +the tiller for the moment, still pulsating with her late emotions, not +above a trifling play of vanity, welcoming the exhilaration of a race, +where she might half forget her trouble, and pleased with a vague +anticipation of some intervention that might recall the word which even +in these five dragging moments had already begun to corrode and eat into +her heart like a rusting fetter. The oarsmen in the wherries bent their +muscles to the strife, the boats danced over the tiny crests, the ladies +sang their breeziest sea-songs to cheer them at the work. The sail-boat +rounded a curve and was almost out of sight. + +"Oars never caught sails yet," muttered St. George, and he put his boat +to the shore. "There, Murray, try your lazy mettle, and take my oar. As +for me, I'm off,"--and he sprang upon the bank, sending the boat +spinning off into the current again from his foot. In ten minutes a +horseman went galloping by on the high-road skirting the shore, with a +pace like that of the Spectre of the Storm. + +"Now, Mr. Marlboro'," said Éloise, "shall we not turn back, victorious?" + +"Turn?" said Marlboro', shaking loose another fold of the linen. "I +never turn! Look your last on the tiny tribe,--we shall see them no +more!" + +Éloise sprang to her feet. He caught her hand and replaced her; his face +was so white that it shone, there was a wild glitter in his eye, and the +smile that brooded over her had something in it absolutely terrific. + +"We have gone far enough," said Éloise, resolutely. "I wish to rejoin my +friends." + +"You are with me!" said Marlboro', proudly. + +She was afraid to say another word, for to oppose him now in his +exultant rage might only work the mood to frenzy. The creek had widened +almost to a river,--the sea was close at hand, with its great tumbling +surf. She looked at the horizon and the hill for help, but none came; +destruction was before them, and on they flew. + +Marlboro' stood now, and steadied the tiller with his foot. + +"This is motion!" said he. "We fly upon the wings of the wind! The +viewless wind comes roaring out of the black region of the East, it +fills the high heaven, it roars on to the uttermost undulation of the +atmosphere, and we are a part of it! We are only a mote upon its breath, +a dust-atom driven before it, Éloise,--and yet one great happiness is +greater than it, drowns it in a vaster flood of viewless power, can +whisper to it calm!" + +How should Éloise contradict him? With such rude awakening, he might +only snatch her in his arms and plunge down to death. Perhaps he half +divined the fear. + +"Yes, Éloise," he said. "They are both here, life and death, at our +beck! I can take you to my heart, one instant the tides divide, then +they close above us, and you are mine for ever and ever and +only,--sealed mine beneath all this crystal sphere of the waters! We +hear the gentle lapping of the ripples on the shore, we hear the tones +of evening-bells swim out and melt above us, we hear the oar shake off +its shower of tinkling drops,--up the jewel-strewn deeps of heaven the +planets hang out their golden lamps to light our slumbers! Heart to +heart and lip to lip, we are at rest, we are at peace, nothing comes +between us, our souls have the eternities in which to mingle!" + +He saw Éloise shudder, and turned from his dream, blazing full upon her. +"Life, then, is best!" he cried. "But life together and alone, life +where we count out its throbs in some far purple island of the main, +prolonged who knows how far?--love shall make for us perpetual youth, +there shall no gloom enter our Eden, perfect solitude and perfect bliss! +Alone, we two in our pride and our joy can defy the powers of any other +heaven, we shall become gods ourselves! Up helm and away! Life is best!" + + + + +THE NEVA. + + + I walk, as in a dream, + Beside the sweeping stream, + Wrapped in the summer midnight's amber haze: + Serene the temples stand, + And sleep, on either hand, + The palace-fronts along the granite quays. + + Where golden domes, remote, + Above the sea-mist float, + The river-arms, dividing, hurry forth; + And Peter's fortress-spire, + A slender lance of fire, + Still sparkles back the splendor of the North. + + The pillared angel soars + Above the silent shores; + Dark from his rock the horseman hangs in air; + And down the watery line + The exiled Sphinxes pine + For Karnak's morning in the mellow glare. + + I hear, amid the hush, + The restless current's rush, + The Neva murmuring through his crystal zone: + A voice portentous, deep, + To charm a monarch's sleep + With dreams of power resistless as his own. + + Strong from the stormy Lake, + Pure from the springs that break + In Valdaï vales the forest's mossy floor, + Greener than beryl-stone + From fir woods vast and lone, + In one full stream the braided currents pour. + + "Build up your granite piles + Around my trembling isles," + I hear the River's scornful Genius say: + "Raise for eternal time + Your palaces sublime, + And flash your golden turrets in the day! + + "But in my waters cold + A mystery I hold,-- + Of empires and of dynasties the fate: + I bend my haughty will, + Unchanged, unconquered still, + And smile to note your triumph: mine can wait. + + "Your fetters I allow, + As a strong man may bow + His sportive neck to meet a child's command, + And curb the conscious power + That in one awful hour + Could whelm your halls and temples where they stand. + + "When infant Rurik first + His Norseland mother nursed, + My willing flood the future chieftain bore: + To Alexander's fame + I lent my ancient name, + What time my waves ran red with Pagan gore. + + "Then Peter came. I laughed + To feel his little craft + Borne on my bosom round the marshy isles: + His daring dream to aid, + My chafing floods I laid, + And saw my shores transfixed with arrowy piles. + + "I wait the far-off day + When other dreams shall sway + The House of Empire builded by my side,-- + Dreams that already soar + From yonder palace-door, + And cast their wavering colors on my tide,-- + + "Dreams where white temples rise + Below the purple skies, + By waters blue, which winter never frets,-- + Where trees of dusky green + From terraced gardens lean, + And shoot on high the reedy minarets. + + "Shadows of mountain-peaks + Vex my unshadowed creeks; + Dark woods o'erhang my silvery birchen bowers; + And islands, bald and high, + Break my clear round of sky, + And ghostly odors blow from distant flowers. + + "Then, ere the cold winds chase + These visions from my face, + I see the starry phantom of a crown, + Beside whose blazing gold + This cheating pomp is cold, + A moment hover, as the veil drops down. + + "Build on! That day shall see + My streams forever free. + Swift as the wind, and silent as the snow, + The frost shall split each wall: + Your domes shall crack and fall: + My bolts of ice shall strike your barriers low!" + + On palace, temple, spire, + The morn's descending fire + In thousand sparkles o'er the city fell: + Life's rising murmur drowned + The Neva where he wound + Between his isles: he keeps his secret well. + + + + +ROBSON. + + +In the whole of London there is not a dirtier, narrower, and more +disreputable thoroughfare than Wych Street. It runs from that lowest +part of Drury Lane where Nell Gwyn once had her lodgings, and stood at +her door in very primitive costume to see the milkmaids go a-Maying, and +parallel to Holywell Street and the Strand, into the church-yard of St. +Clements Danes. No good, it was long supposed, could ever come out of +Wych Street. The place had borne an evil name for centuries. Up a +horrible little court branching northward from it good old George +Cruikshank once showed me the house where Jack Sheppard, the robber and +prison-breaker, served his apprenticeship to Mr. Wood, the carpenter; +and on a beam in the loft of this house Jack is said to have carved his +name. When the pavement of the Strand is under repair, Wych Street +becomes, perforce, the principal channel of communication between the +east and the west end; and Theodore Hook used to say that he never +passed through Wych Street in a hackney-coach without being blocked up +by a hearse and a coal-wagon in the van, and a mud-cart and the Lord +Mayor's carriage in the rear. Wych Street is among the highways we +English are ashamed to show to foreigners. We have threatened to pull it +down bodily, any time these two hundred years, and a portion of the +southern side, on which the old Lyons Inn abutted, has indeed been +razed, preparatory to the erection of a grand metropolitan hotel on the +American system; but the funds appear not to be forthcoming; the scheme +languishes; and, on the other side of the street, another legal +hostelry, New Inn, still flourishes in weedy dampness, immovable in the +strength of vested interests. Many more years must, I am afraid, elapse +before we get rid of Wych Street. It is full of quaint old Tudor houses, +with tall gables, carved porches, and lattice-casements; but the +picturesque appearance of these tenements compensates but ill for their +being mainly dens of vice and depravity, inhabited by the vilest +offscourings of the enormous city. Next to _Napoli senza sole_, Wych +Street, Drury Lane, is, morally and physically, about the shadiest +street I know. + +In Wych Street stands, nevertheless, an oasis in the midst of a desert, +a pretty and commodious little theatre, called the Olympic. The +entertainments here provided have earned, for brilliance and elegance, +so well-deserved a repute, that the Olympic Theatre has become one of +the most favorite resorts of the British aristocracy. The Brahminical +classes appear oblivious of the yellow streak of caste, when they come +hither. On four or five nights in every week during the season, Drury +Lane is rendered well-nigh impassable by splendid equipages which have +conveyed dukes and marquises and members of Parliament to the Olympic. +Frequently, but prior to the lamented death of Prince Albert, you might +observe, if you passed through Wych Street in the forenoon, a little +platform, covered with faded red cloth, and shaded by a dingy, striped +awning, extending from one of the entrance-doors of the Olympic to the +edge of the sidewalk. The initiated became at once aware that Her Most +Gracious Majesty intended to visit the Olympic Theatre that very +evening. The Queen of England goes to theatres no more; but the Prince +of Wales and his pretty young wife, the stout, good-tempered Duke of +Cambridge, and his sister, the bonny Princess Mary, are still constant +visitors to Wych Street. So gorgeous is often the assemblage in this +murkiest of streets, that you are reminded of the days when the French +_noblesse_, in all the pride of hoops and hair-powder, deigned to flock +to the lowly wine-shop of Ramponneau. + +My business, however, is less with the Olympic Theatre, as it at present +exists, than with its immediate predecessor. About fifteen years ago, +there stood in Wych Street a queer, low-browed little building with a +rough wooden portico before it,--not unlike such a portico as I have +recently seen in front of a dilapidated inn at Culpepper, Virginia,--and +with little blinking windows, very much resembling the port-holes of a +man-of-war. According to tradition, the place had, indeed, a kind of +naval origin. Old King George III., who, when he was not mad, or +meddling with politics, was really a good-natured kind of man, once made +Philip Astley, the riding-master, and proprietor of the circus in South +Lambeth, a present of a dismantled seventy-four gun-ship captured from +the French. With these timbers, some lath and plaster, a few bricks, and +a little money, Astley ran up a theatre dedicated to the performance of +interludes and _burlettas_,--that is, of pieces in which the dialogue +was not spoken, but sung, in order to avoid interference with the +patent-rights of Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In our days, this edifice +was known as the Olympic. When I knew this theatre first, it had fallen +into a state of seemingly hopeless decadence. Nobody succeeded there. To +lease the Olympic Theatre was to court bankruptcy and invite collapse. +The charming Vestris had been its tenant for a while. There Liston and +Wrench had delighted the town with their most excellent fooling. There +many of Planche's most sparkling burlesques had been produced. There a +perfect boudoir of a green-room had been fitted up by Bartolozzi's +beautiful and witty daughter; and there Hook and Jerrold, Haynes Bayley +and A' Beckett had uttered their wittiest sayings. But the destiny of +the Olympic was indomitable. There was nae luck about the house; and +Eliza Vestris went bankrupt at last. Management after management tried +its fortunes in the doomed little house, but without success. Desperate +adventurers seized upon it as a last resource, or chose it as a place +wherein to consummate their ruin. The Olympic was contiguous to the +Insolvent Debtors' Court, in Portugal Street, and from the paint-pots of +the Olympic scene-room to the whitewash of the commercial tribunal there +was but one step. + +It must have been in 1848 that the famous comedian, William Farren, +having realized a handsome fortune as an actor, essayed to lose a +considerable portion of his wealth by becoming a manager. He succeeded +in the last-named enterprise quite as completely as he had done in the +other: I mean, that he lost a large sum of money in the Olympic Theatre. +He played all kinds of pieces: among others, he gave the public two very +humorous burlesques, founded on Shakspeare's plays of "Macbeth" and "The +Merchant of Venice." The authors were two clever young Oxford men: Frank +Talfourd, the son of the poet-Judge,--father and son are, alas! both +dead,--and William Hale, the son of the well-known Archdeacon and Master +of the Charter-House. Shakspearian burlesques were no novelty to the +town. We had had enough and to spare of them. W. J. Hammond, the +original _Sam Weller_ in the dramatized version of "Pickwick," had made +people laugh in "Macbeth Travestie" and "Othello according to Act of +Parliament." The Olympic burlesques were slightly funnier, and not +nearly so coarse as their forerunners; but they were still of no +striking salience. Poorly mounted, feebly played,--save in one +particular,--they drew but thin houses. Gradually, however, you began to +hear at clubs and in critical coteries--at the Albion and the Garrick +and the Café de l'Europe, at Evans's and at Kilpack's, at the Réunion in +Maiden Lane and at Rules's oyster-room, where poor Albert Smith used to +reign supreme--rumors about a new actor. The new man was playing +_Macbeth_ and _Shylock_ in Talfourd and Hale's parodies. He was a little +stunted fellow, not very well-favored, not very young. Nobody--among the +bodies who were anybody--had ever heard of him before. Whence he came, +or what he was, none knew; but everybody came at last to care. For this +little stunted creature, with his hoarse voice and nervous gestures and +grotesque delivery, his snarls, his leers, his hunchings of the +shoulders, his contortions of the limbs, his gleaming of the eyes, and +his grindings of the teeth, was a genius. He became town-talk. He +speedily grew famous. He has been an English, I might almost say a +European, I might almost say a worldwide celebrity ever since; and his +name was FREDERICK ROBSON. + +Eventually it was known, when the town grew inquisitive, and the critics +were compelled to ferret out his antecedents, that the new actor had +already attained middle age,--that he had been vegetating for years in +that obscurest and most miserable of all dramatic positions, the low +comedian of a country-theatre,--that he had come timidly to London and +accepted at a low salary the post of buffoon at a half-theatre +half-saloon in the City Road, called indifferently the "Grecian" and the +"Eagle," where he had danced and tumbled, and sung comic songs, and +delivered the dismal waggeries set down for him, without any marked +success, and almost without notice. He was a quiet, unassuming little +man, this Robson, seemingly without vanity and without ambition. He had +a wife and family to maintain, and drew his twenty-five or thirty +shillings weekly with perfect patience and resignation. + +A weary period, however, elapsed between his appearance at the Olympic +and his realization of financial success. The critics and the +connoisseurs talked about him a long time before the public could be +persuaded to go and see him, or the manager to raise his salary. That +doomed house with the wooden portico was in the way. At last the +wretched remnant of the French seventy-four caught fire and was burned +to the ground. Its ill-luck was consistent to the last. A poor actor, +named Bender, had engaged the Olympic for a benefit. He was to pay +twenty pounds for the use of the house. He had just sold nineteen +pounds' worth of tickets, and trusted to the casual receipts at the door +for his profits. At a few minutes before six o'clock, having to play in +the first piece, he proceeded to the theatre, and entered his +dressing-room. By half-past six the whole house was in a blaze. Bender, +half undressed, had only time to save himself; and his coat, with the +nineteen pounds in the pocket, fell a prey to the flames. After this, +will you tell me that there is not such a thing as ill-luck? + +The Olympic arose "like a phoenix from its ashes." To use language +less poetical, a wealthy tradesman--a cheesemonger, I think--found the +capital to build up a new theatre. The second edifice was elegant, and +almost splendid; but in the commencement it seemed fated to undergo as +evil fortune as its precursor. I cannot exactly remember whether it was +in the old or the new Olympic--but I think it was in the new one--that +the notorious Walter Watts ran a brief and sumptuous career as manager. +He produced many pieces, some of them his own, in a most luxurious +manner. He was a man about town, a _viveur_, a dandy; and it turned out +one morning that Walter Watts had been, all along, a clerk in the Globe +Insurance Office, at a salary of a hundred and fifty pounds a year; and +that he had swindled his employers out of enormous sums of money. He was +tried, nominally for stealing "a piece of paper, value one penny," being +a check which he had abstracted; but it was understood that his +defalcations were little short of ninety thousand pounds sterling. Watts +was convicted, and sentenced to ten years' transportation. The poor +wretch was not of the heroically villanous mould in which the dashing +criminals who came after him, Robson and Redpath, were cast. He was +troubled with a conscience. He had drunk himself into delirium tremens; +and starting from his pallet one night in a remorseful frenzy, he hanged +himself in the jail. + +It was during the management of Alfred Wigan at the New Olympic that +Frederick Robson began to be heard of again. An old, and not a very +clever farce, by one of the Brothers Mayhew, entitled "The Wandering +Minstrel," had been revived. In this farce, Robson was engaged to play +the part of _Jem Baggs_, an itinerant vocalist and flageolet-player, +who, in tattered attire, roams about from town to town, making the air +hideous with his performances. The part was a paltry one, and Robson, +who had been engaged mainly at the instance of the manager's wife, a +very shrewd and appreciative lady, who persisted in declaring that the +ex-low-comedian of the Grecian had "something in him," eked it out by +singing an absurd ditty called "Vilikins and his Dinah." The words and +the air of "Vilikins" were, if not literally as old as the hills, +considerably older than the age of Queen Elizabeth. The story told in +the ballad, of a father's cruelty, a daughter's anguish, a sweetheart's +despair, and the ultimate suicide of both the lovers, is, albeit couched +in uncouth and grotesque language, as pathetic as the tragedy of "Romeo +and Juliet." Robson gave every stanza a nonsensical refrain of "Right +tooral lol looral, right tooral lol lay." At times, when his audience +was convulsed with merriment, he would come to a halt, and gravely +observe, "This is not a comic song"; but London, was soon unanimous that +such exquisite comicality had not been heard for many a long year. +"Vilikins and his Dinah" created a _furore_. My countrymen are always +going mad about something; and Englishmen and Englishwomen all agreed to +go crazy about "Vilikins." "Right tooral lol looral" was on every lip. +Robson's portrait as _Jem Baggs_ was in every shop-window. A newspaper +began an editorial with the first line in "Vilikins,"-- + + "It's of a liquor-merchant who in London did dwell." + +A Judge of Assize absolutely fined the High Sheriff of a county one +hundred pounds for the mingled contempt shown in neglecting to provide +him with an escort of javelin-men and introducing the irrepressible +"Right tooral lol looral" into a speech delivered at the opening of +circuit. Nor was the song all that was wonderful in _Jem Baggs_. His +"make-up" was superb. The comic genius of Robson asserted itself in an +inimitable lagging gait, an unequalled snivel, a coat and pantaloons +every patch on and every rent in which were artistic, and a hat +inconceivably battered, crunched, and bulged out of normal, and into +preternatural shape. + +New triumphs awaited him. In the burlesque of "The Yellow Dwarf," he +showed a mastery of the grotesque which approached the terrible. Years +before, in _Macbeth_, he had personated a red-headed, fire-eating, +whiskey-drinking Scotchman,--and in _Shylock_, a servile, fawning, +obsequious, yet, when emergency arose, a passionate and vindictive Jew. +In the _Yellow Dwarf_ he was the jaundiced embodiment of a spirit of +Oriental evil: crafty, malevolent, greedy, insatiate,--full of mockery, +mimicry, lubricity, and spite,--an Afrit, a Djinn, a Ghoul, a spawn of +Sheitan. How that monstrous orange-tawny head grinned and wagged! How +those flaps of ears were projected forwards, like unto those of a dog! +How balefully those atrabilious eyes glistened! You laughed, and yet you +shuddered. He spoke in mere doggerel and slang. He sang trumpery songs +to negro melodies. He danced the Lancashire clog-hornpipe; he rattled +out puns and conundrums; yet did he contrive to infuse into all this +mummery and buffoonery, into this salmagundi of the incongruous and the +_outré_, an unmistakably tragic element,--an element of depth and +strength and passion, and almost of sublimity. The mountebank became +inspired. The Jack Pudding suddenly drew the _cothurnus_ over his clogs. +You were awe-stricken by the intensity, the vehemence, he threw into the +mean balderdash of the burlesque-monger. These qualities were even more +apparent in his subsequent personation of _Medea_, in Robert Brough's +parody of the Franco-Italian tragedy. The love, the hate, the scorn, of +the abandoned wife of _Jason_, the diabolic loathing in which she holds +_Creüsa_, the tigerish affection with which she regards the children +whom she is afterwards to slay,--all these were portrayed by Robson, +through the medium, be it always remembered, of doggerel and slang, with +astonishing force and vigor. The original _Medea_, the great Ristori +herself, came to see Robson, and was delighted with and amazed at him. +She scarcely understood two words of English, but the actor's genius +struck her home through the bull's-hide target of an unknown tongue. +_"Uomo straordinario!"_ she went away saying. + +I have anticipated the order of his successes, but at this distance of +time and places I can keep no chronological count of them. Robson has +always alternated the serio-comic burlesque with pure farce, and after +_Jem Baggs_ his brightest hits have been in the deaf ostler in "Boots at +the Swan" and the discharged criminal in "Retained for the Defence." In +the burlesque of "Masaniello," he had an opportunity--which some thought +would prove a magnificent one to him--of showing the grotesque side of +insanity; but, for some reason or other, the part seemed distasteful to +him. It may have been repugnant to his eminently sensitive spirit to +exhibit the ludicrous aspect of the most dreadful of human infirmities. +_A peste, fame, bello, et dementia libera nos, Domine!_ Perhaps the +piece itself was weak. At all events, "Masaniello" had but a brief run. +A drunken man, a jealous man, a deaf man, a fool, a vagabond, a demon, a +tyrant, Robson could marvellously depict: in the crazy Neapolitan +fisherman he either failed or was unwilling to excel. I had been for a +long period extremely solicitous to see Robson undertake the part of +_Sir Giles Overreach_ in "A New Way to pay Old Debts." You know that +_Sir Giles_, after the discovery of the obliterated deed, goes stark +staring mad. I should have wished to see him assume Edmund Kean's own +character in the real play itself; but Robson was nervous of venturing +on a purely "legitimate" _rôle_. I was half persuaded to write a +burlesque on "A New Way to pay Old Debts," and Robson had promised to do +his very best with _Sir Giles_; but a feeling, half of laziness, and +half of reverence for the fine old drama, came over me, and I never got +farther than the first scene. + +By this time some of the foremost dramatists in London thought they +could discern in Robson latent characteristics of a nature far more +elevated than those which his previous performances had brought into +play. It was decided by those who had a right to render an authoritative +verdict, that he would shine best in that which we call the "domestic +drama." Here it was thought his broad fun, rustic waggery, and curious +mastery of provincial dialect might admirably contrast with the +melodramatic intensity, and the homely, but touching pathos of which in +so eminent a degree he was the master. Hence the dramas, written +expressly and deliberately to his measure and capacity, of "Daddy +Hardacre," "The Porter's Knot," and "The Chimney-Corner." When I say +written, I mean, of course, translated. Our foremost dramatists have not +yet ceased to borrow from the French; but, like the gypsies, they so +skilfully mutilate the children they have stolen, that the theft becomes +almost impossible to detect. Not one person in five hundred, for +instance, would discover at first sight that a play so apparently +English in conception and structure as the "Ticket-of-Leave Man" is, in +reality, a translation from the French. + +The success achieved by Robson in the dramas I have named was extended, +and was genuine. In _Daddy Hardacre_, a skilful adaptation of the usurer +in Balzac's "Eugénie Grandet," he was tremendous. It made me more than +ever wishful to see him in the griping, ruthless _Overreach_, foiled at +last in his wicked ambition and driven to frenzy by the destruction of +the document by which he thought to satisfy his lust of gain. Molière's +_Avare_ I thought he would have acted wonderfully; Ben Jonson's +_Volpone_, in "The Fox," he would surely have understood, and powerfully +rendered. In the devoted father of "The Porter's Knot" he was likewise +most excellent: quiet, unaffected, unobtrusive, never forcing sentiment +upon you, never obtaining tears by false pretences, but throughout +solid, sterling, natural, admirable. I came at last, however, to the +conviction, that, marked as was the distinction gained by this good +actor in parts such as these, and as the lighthouse-keeper--the +character originally sustained in private by Charles Dickens--in Wilkie +Collins's play, domestic drama was not his _forte_; or, rather, that it +was not his _fortissimo_. In fantastic burlesque, in the comic-terrible, +he was unrivalled and inimitable. In the domestic drama he could hardly +be surpassed, but he might be approached. Webster, Emery, Addison, could +play _Daddy Hardacre_, or the father in "The Porter's Knot"; but none +but himself could at once awe and convulse in _Medea_ and _the Yellow +Dwarf_. These domestic dramas interested, however, as much by their +subject as by the excellence of his acting. Moreover, the public are apt +sometimes to grow weary of burlesques,--their eternal grimacing and +word-torturing and negro-singing and dancing. Themes for parody become +exhausted, and, without long surcease, would not bear repetition. You +may grow puns, like tobacco, until the soil is utterly worn out. The +burlesque-writers, too, exhibited signs of weariness and feebleness. +Planché retired into the Heralds' College. The cleverest of the Broughs +died. His surviving brother was stupid. Talfourd went to the law before +he found an early grave. Hale went to India. The younger generation were +scarcely fit to write pantomimes, and it was not always Christmas. +Besides, Robson had become a manager, and thought, perhaps, that +weightier parts became him. In copartnership with Mr. Emden, he had +succeeded Alfred Wigan as lessee of the Olympic, and there I hope he has +realized a fortune. But whenever his brief vacations occurred, and +actor-like he proceeded to turn them into gold by devoting to +performances in country-theatres those days and nights which should +properly have been given to rest and peace, he proved faithful to his +old loves, and _Jem Baggs_ and _Boots at the Swan_, _Medea_ and _the +Yellow Dwarf_, continued to be his favorite parts. + +The popularity attained in England by this most remarkable of modern +actors has never, since the public were first aware of his qualities, +decreased. Robson is always sure to draw. The nights of his playing, or +of his non-playing, at the Olympic, are as sure a gauge of the receipts +as the rising and falling of the mercury in the thermometer are of the +variations of the temperature. A month's absence of Robson from London +always brought about an alarming depletion in the Olympic treasury. +Unhappily, these absences have of late years become more frequent, and +more and more prolonged. The health of the great tragi-comedian has +gradually failed him. I have been for a long period without news from +him; but I much fear that the heyday of his health and strength is past. +The errors which made Edmund Kean, in the prime of life, a shattered +wreck, cannot be brought home to Frederick Robson. Rumors, the wildest +and the wickedest, have been circulated about him, as about every other +public man; but, to the best of my knowledge and belief, they are wholly +destitute of foundation. _Don Basilio_, in Beaumarchais's play, might +have added some very pregnant advice to his memorable counsel, +"_Calomniez, calomniez, il en résultera toujours quelque chose_." He +should have taught the world--if the world wants teaching--_how_ to +calumniate. The following recipe will be found, I think, infallible. If +your enemy be a man of studious and retired habits, hint that he has +gone mad; if you see him alone at a theatre or at church, report that he +is separated from his wife; _and in any case, declare that he drinks_. +He can't disprove it. If he drinks water out-of-doors, he may drink like +a fish at home. If he walks straight on the street, he may reel in the +parlor. + +Thus, scores of times, the gossip-mongers of English provincial +papers--the legion of "our own correspondents," who are a nuisance and a +curse to reputable society, wherever that society is to be found--have +attributed the vacillating health and the intermittent retirements from +the stage of the great actor to an over-fondness for brandy-and-water. +The sorrowful secret of all this is, I apprehend, that poor Robson has +for years been overworking himself,--and that latterly prosperity has +laid as heavy a tax upon his time and energy as necessity imposed upon +them when he was young. Dame Fortune, whether she smile, or whether she +frown, never ceases to be a despot. Over Dives and over Lazarus she +equally tyrannizes. In wealth and in poverty does she exact the pound of +flesh or the pound of soul. There are seasons in a man's life when +Fortune with a radiant savageness cries out to him, "Confound you! you +_shall_ make fifty thousand a year"; and she drives him onward to the +goal quite as remorselessly as ever slave-owner drove negro into a +rice-ground. The whip that is made of golden wire hurts quite as much, I +opine, as the cowhide. And when, at last, the fortunate man cries out, +"I am rich, I have enough, _Sat me lusistis, ludite nunc alios_, I will +work and fret myself no more, I will retire on my dividends, and sit me +down under my own fig-tree,"--Fortune dismisses him with a sneer: +"Retire, if you like!" cries the implacable, "but take hypochondria and +_ennui_, take gout and the palsy, with you." + +I should be infinitely rejoiced to hear, when I go back, that Robson is +once more a hale and valid man. It is the tritest of platitudes to say +that he could ill be spared by the English stage. We never _can_ spare a +good actor. As well can we spare a good book or a good picture. But +there would be much cause for gratulation, if Robson were spared, ere +his powers definitively decline, to visit the United States. The +American people ought to see Robson. They have had our tragedians, good, +bad, and indifferent. They have filled the pockets of William Macready +and of Charles Kean with dollars. They have heard our men-singers and +our women-singers,--the birds that can sing, and the birds that can't +sing, but _will_ sing. The most notable of our drolls, Buckstone and +Keeley, have been here, and have received a cordial welcome. But Robson +has hitherto been lacking on this side the Atlantic. That he would be +thoroughly appreciated by the theatrical public of America I cannot for +one instant doubt. It is given to England to produce eccentrics, but for +other nations to understand them better than the English do. The Germans +are better critics of the satire of Hogarth, the French of the humor of +Sterne, and the Americans of the philosophy of Shakspeare, than we to +whose country those illustrious belong. In Boston, in New York, in +Philadelphia, crowded and enthusiastic audiences would, I venture to +foretell, hang on the utterances of Robson, and expound to their own +entire satisfaction his most eloquent by-play, his subtlest gestures. It +would be idle, in the endeavor to give him something like a palpable +aspect to people who have never seen him, to compare him with other +great actors yet extant, or who have gone before. In his bursts of +passion, in his vehement soliloquies, in the soul-harrowing force of his +simulated invective, he is said to resemble Edmund Kean; but how are you +to judge of an actor who in his comic moments certainly approaches the +image we have formed to ourselves of Munden and Dowton, of Bannister and +Suett? To say that he is a Genius, and the Prince of Eccentrics, is +perhaps the only way to cut the Gordian knot of criticism in his +instance. + +Let me add, in conclusion, that Robson, off the stage, is one of the +mildest, modestest, most unassuming of men. Painfully nervous he always +was. I remember, a dozen years since, and when I was personally +unacquainted with him, writing in some London newspaper a eulogistic +criticism on one of his performances. I learned from friends that he had +read the article, and had expressed himself as deeply grateful to me for +it. I just knew him by sight; but for months afterwards, if I met him in +the street, he used to blush crimson, and made as sudden a retreat round +the nearest corner as was possible. He said afterwards that he hadn't +the courage to thank me. I brought him to bay at last, and came to know +him very well; and then I discovered how the nervousness, the +bashfulness, the _mauvaise honte_, which made him so shy and retiring in +private, stood him in wonderful stead on the stage. The nervous man +became the fretful and capricious tyrant of mock tragedy; the bashful +man warmed at the foot-lights with passion and power. The manner which +in society was a drawback and a defect became in the pursuit of his art +a charm and an excellence. What new parts may be created for Robson, and +how he will acquit himself in them, I cannot presume to prophesy; but it +is certain that he has already done enough to win for himself in the +temple of dramatic fame a niche all the more to be envied, as its form +and pattern must be, like its occupant, unprecedented and original. + + + + +THE PARALLEL ROADS OF GLEN ROY, IN SCOTLAND. + + +There are phenomena in Nature which give the clue to so many of its +mysteries that their correct interpretation leads at once to the +broadest generalizations and to the rapid advance of science in new +directions. The explanation of one very local and limited problem may +clear up many collateral ones, since its solution includes the answer to +a whole set of kindred inquiries. The "parallel roads" of Glen Roy offer +such a problem. For half a century they have been the subject of patient +investigation and the boldest speculation. To them natural philosophers +have returned again and again to test their theories, and until they are +fully understood no steady or permanent advance can be made in the +various views which they have suggested to different observers. The +theory of the formation of lakes by barriers, presented by McCulloch and +Sir T. Lauder-Dick, that of continental upheavals and subsidences, +advocated by Sir Charles Lyell and Charles Darwin, that of inundations +by great floods, maintained by Professor H. D. Rogers and Sir George +Mackenzie, that of glacial action, brought forward by myself, have been +duly discussed with reference to this difficult case; all have found +their advocates, all have met with warm opposition, and the matter still +remains a mooted point; but the one of all these theories which shall +stand the test of time and repeated examination and be eventually +accepted will explain many a problem besides the one it was meant to +solve, and lead to farther progress in other directions. + +I propose here to reconsider the facts of the case, and to present anew +my own explanation of them, now more than twenty years old, but which I +have never had an opportunity of publishing in detail under a popular +form, though it appeared in the scientific journals of the day. + +Before considering, however, the phenomena of Glen Roy, or the special +glacial areas scattered over Scotland and the other British Isles, let +us see what general evidence we have that glaciers ever existed at all +in that realm. The reader will pardon me, if, at the risk of repetition, +I sum up here the indications which, from our knowledge of glaciers as +they at present exist, must be admitted, wherever they are found, as +proof of their former existence. Such a summary may serve also as a +guide to those who would look for glacial traces where they have not +hitherto been sought. + +In the first place, we have to consider the singular abrasion of the +surfaces over which the glacier has moved, quite unlike that produced by +the action of water. We have seen that such surfaces, wherever the +glacier-marks have not been erased by some subsequent action, have +several unfailing characteristics: they are highly polished, and they +are also marked with scratches or fine _striæ_, with grooves and deeper +furrows. Where best preserved, the smooth surfaces are shining; they +have a lustre like stone or marble artificially polished by the combined +friction and pressure of some harder material than itself until all its +inequalities have been completely levelled and its surface has become +glossy. Any marble mantel-piece may serve as an example of this kind of +glacier-worn surface. + +The levelling and abrading action of water on rock has an entirely +different character. Tides or currents driven powerfully and constantly +against a rocky shore, and bringing with them hard materials, may +produce blunt, smooth surfaces, such as the repeated blows of a hammer +on stone would cause; but they never bring it to a high polish, because, +the grinding materials not being held steadily down, in firm, permanent +contact with the rocky surfaces against which they move, as is the case +with the glacier, but, on the contrary, dashed to and fro, they strike +and rebound, making a succession of blows, but never a continuous, +uninterrupted pressure and friction. The same is true of all the marks +made on rocky shores against which loose materials are driven by +water-currents. They are separate, disconnected, fragmentary; whereas +the lines drawn by the hard materials set in the glacier, whether light +and fine or strong and deep, are continuous, often unbroken for long +distances, and rectilinear. Indeed, we have seen[A] that we have beneath +every glacier a complete apparatus adapted to all the results described +above. In the softer fragments ground to the finest powder under the +incumbent mass we have a polishing paste; in the hard materials set in +that paste, whether pebbles, or angular rocky fragments of different +sizes, or grains of sand, we have the various graving instruments by +which the finer or coarser lines are drawn. Not only are these lines +frequently uninterrupted for a distance of many yards, but they are also +parallel, except when some change takes place in the thickness of the +ice, which may slightly modify the trend of the mass, or where lines in +a variety of directions are produced by the intermittent action of +separate glaciers running successively at different angles over the same +surfaces. The deeper grooves sometimes present a succession of short +staccato touches, just as when one presses the finger vertically along +some surface where the resistance is sufficient to interrupt the action +without actually stopping it,--a kind of grating motion, showing how +firmly the instrument which produced it must have been held in the +moving mass. No currents or sudden freshets carrying hard materials with +them, even moving along straight paths down hill-sides or +mountain-slopes, have ever been known to draw any such lines. They could +be made only by some instrument held fast as in a vice by the moving +power. Something of the kind is occasionally produced by the drag of a +wheel grating over rocks covered with loose materials. + +It has been said that grounded ice or icebergs floating along a rocky +shore might produce similar marks; but they will chiefly be at the level +of high-water mark, and, if grounded, they will trend in various +directions, owing to the rocking or rotating movement of the iceberg. It +has also been urged, that, without admitting any general glacier-period, +icebergs and floating ice from more northern latitudes might account for +the extensive transportation of the loose materials scattered in a +continuous sheet over a large portion of the globe. There can be no +doubt that an immense amount of _débris_ of all sorts is carried to +great distances by floating ice; where their presence is due to this +cause, however, they are everywhere stranded along the shore or dropped +to the sea-bottom. Large boulders are frequently left by the ice along +the New-England coast, and we shall trace them hereafter among the +sand-dunes of Cape Cod. But before it can be admitted that the +drift-phenomena, and the polished and engraved surfaces with which they +are everywhere intimately associated, are owing to floating ice or +icebergs, it must be shown that all these appearances have been produced +by some agency moving from the sea-board towards the land, and extending +up to the very summits of the mountains, or else that all the countries +exhibiting glacial phenomena have been sunk below the ocean to the +greatest height at which glacier-marks are found, and have since +gradually emerged to their present level. Now, though geologists are +lavish of immersions when something is to be accounted for which they +cannot otherwise explain, and a fresh baptism of old Mother Earth is +made to wash away many obstacles to scientific theories, yet the common +sense of the world will hardly admit the latter assumption without +positive proof, and all the evidence of the kind we have, at the period +under consideration, indicates only a comparatively slight change of +relative level between sea and land within a narrow belt along the +shores; and even this is shown to be posterior, not anterior, to the +glacial phenomena. As to the supposition that the motion proceeded from +the sea towards the land, all the facts are against it, since the whole +trend of these phenomena is from inland centres toward the shore, +instead of being from the coast upward. + +Certainly, no one familiar with the facts could suppose that floating +ice or icebergs had abraded, polished, and furrowed the bottom of narrow +valleys as we find them worn, polished, and grooved by glaciers. And it +must be remembered that this is a theory founded not upon hypothesis, +but upon the closest comparison. I have not become acquainted with these +marks in regions where glaciers no longer exist, and made a theory to +explain their presence. I have, on the contrary, studied them where they +are in process of formation. I have seen the glacier engrave its lines, +plough its grooves and furrows in the solid rock, and polish the +surfaces over which it moved, and was familiar with all this when I +found afterwards appearances corresponding exactly to those which I had +investigated in the home of the present glaciers. I could therefore say, +and I think with some reason, that "this also is the work of the glacier +acting in ancient times as it now acts in Switzerland." + +There is another character of glacial action distinguishing it from any +abrasions caused by water, even if freighted with a large amount of +loose materials. On any surface over which water flows we shall find +that the softer materials have yielded first and most completely. Hard +dikes will be left standing out, while softer rocks around them are worn +away,--furrows will be eaten into more deeply,--fissures will be +widened,--clay-slates will be wasted,--while hard sandstone or limestone +and granite will show greater resistance. Not so with surfaces over +which the levelling plough of the glacier has passed. Wherever softer +and harder rocks alternate, they are brought to one outline; where dikes +intersect softer rock, they are cut to one level with it; where rents or +fissures traverse the rock, they do not seem to have been widened or +scooped out more deeply, but their edges are simply abraded on one line +with the adjoining surfaces. Whatever be the inequality in the hardness +of the materials of which the rock consists, even in the case of +pudding-stone, the surface is abraded so evenly as to leave the +impression that a rigid rasp has moved over all the undulations of the +land, advancing in one and the same direction and levelling all before +it. + +Among the inequalities of the glacier-worn surfaces which deserve +especial notice, are the so-called "_roches moutonnées_." They are +knolls of a peculiar appearance, frequent in the Alps, and first noticed +by the illustrious De Saussure, who designated them by that name, +because, where they are numerous and seen from a distance, they resemble +the rounded backs of a flock of sheep resting on the ground. These +knolls are the result of the prolonged abrasion of masses of rocks +separated by deep indentations wide enough to be filled up by large +glaciers, overtopping the summits of the intervening prominences, and +passing over them like a river, or like tide-currents flowing over a +submerged ledge of rock. It is evident that water rushing over such +sunken hills or ledges, adapting itself readily to all the inequalities +over which it flows, and forming eddies against the obstacles in its +course, will scoop out tortuous furrows upon the bottom, and hollow out +rounded cavities against the walls, acting especially along preëxisting +fissures and upon the softer parts of the rock,--while the glacier, +moving as a solid mass, and carrying on its under side its gigantic file +set in a fine paste, will in course of time abrade uniformly the angles +against which it strikes, equalize the depressions between the prominent +masses, and round them off until they present those smooth bulging +knolls known as the "_roches moutonnées_" in the Alps, and so +characteristic everywhere of glacier-action. A comparison of any +tide-worn hummock with such a glacier-worn mound will convince the +observer that its smooth and evenly rounded surface was never produced +by water. + +Besides their peculiar form, the _roches moutonnées_ present all the +characteristic features of glacier-action in their polished surfaces +accompanied with the straight lines, grooves, and furrows above +described. But there are two circumstances connected with these knolls +deserving special notice. They frequently present the glacial marks only +on one side, while the opposite side has all the irregularities and +roughness of a hill-slope not acted upon by ice. It is evident that the +polished side was the one turned towards the advancing glacier, the side +against which the ice pressed in its onward movement,--while it passed +over the other side, the lee side as we may call it, without coming in +immediate contact with it, bridging the depression, and touching bottom +again a little farther on. As an additional evidence of this fact, we +frequently find on the lee side of such knolls accumulations of the +loose materials which the glacier carries with it. It is only, however, +when the knolls are quite high, and abrupt enough to allow any rigid +substance to bridge over the space in its descent from the summit to the +surface below, that we find these conditions; when the knolls are low +and slope gently downward in every direction, they present the +characteristic glacier-surfaces equally on all sides. This circumstance +should be borne in mind by all who investigate the traces of +glacier-action; for this inequality in the surfaces presented by the +opposite sides of any obstacle in the path of the ice is often an +important means of determining the direction of its motion. + +The other characteristic peculiarity of these _roches moutonnées_ +consists in the direction of the glacier-scratches, which ascend the +slope to its summit in a direct line on one side, while they deviate to +the right and left on the other sides of the knoll, more or less +obliquely according to its steepness. Occasionally, large boulders may +be found perched on the very summit of such prominences. Their position +is inexplicable by the supposition of currents as the cause of their +transportation. Any current strong enough to carry a boulder to such a +height would of course sweep it on with it. This phenomenon finds, +however, an easy explanation in the glacial theory. The thickness of +such a sheet of ice is of course less above such a hill or mound than +over the lower levels adjoining it. Not only will the ice melt, +therefore, more readily at this spot, but, as ice is transparent to +heat, the summit of the prominence will become warmed by the rays of the +sun, and will itself facilitate the melting of the ice above it. On the +breaking up of the ice, therefore, such a spot will be the first to +yield, and allow the boulders carried on the back of the glacier to fall +into the hollow thus formed, where they will rest upon the projecting +rock left uncovered. This is no theoretical explanation; there are such +cases in Switzerland, where holes in the ice are formed immediately +above the summit of hills or prominences over which the glacier passes, +and into which it drops its burdens. Of course, where the ice is +constantly renewed over such a spot by the onward progress of the +glacier, these materials may be carried off again; but if we suppose +such a case to occur at the breaking up of the glacier-period, when the +ice was disappearing forever from such a spot, it is easy to account for +the poising of these large boulders on prominent peaks or ledges. + +The appearances about the _roches moutonnées_, especially the straight +scratches and grooves on the side up which the ice ascended, have led to +a mistaken view of the mode in which large boulders are transported by +ice. It has been supposed, by those who, while they accepted the glacial +theory, were not wholly conversant with the mode of action of glaciers, +that, in passing through the bottom of a valley, for instance, the +glacier would take up large boulders, and, carrying them along with it, +would push them up such a slope and deposit them on its summit. It is +true that large boulders may sometimes be found in front of glaciers +among the materials of their terminal moraines, and may, upon any +advance of the glacier, be pushed forward by it. But I know of no +example of erratic boulders being carried to considerable distances and +raised from lower to higher levels by this means. All the angular +boulders perched upon prominent rocks must have fallen upon the surface +of the glacier in the upper part of its course, where rocky ledges rise +above its surface and send down their broken fragments. The surface of +any boulder carried under the ice, or pushed along for any distance at +its terminus, would show the friction and pressure to which it had been +subjected. In this connection it should be remembered that in the case +of large glaciers low hills form no obstacle to their onward progress, +especially when the glacier is thick enough to cover them completely, +and even to rise far above them. The _roches moutonnées_ about the +Grimsel show that hills many hundred feet high have been passed over by +the great glacier of the Aar, when it descended as far as Meyringen, +without having seemingly influenced its onward progress. + +But in enumerating the evidences of glacier-action, we have to remember +not only the effects produced upon the surface of the ground by the ice +itself, but also the deposits it has left behind it. The loose materials +scattered over the face of the earth may point as distinctly to the +source of their distribution as does the character of the rocky surfaces +on which they rest indicate the different causes of abrasion. In +characteristic localities the loose materials deposited by glaciers may +readily be recognized at first sight, and distinguished from water-worn +pebbles; nor is it difficult to distinguish both from loose materials +resulting from the decomposition of rocks on the spot,--the latter +always agreeing with the rocks on which they rest, while the +decomposition to which they owe their separation from the solid rock is +often still going on. Such _débris_ are found everywhere about +disintegrating rocks, and they constantly mingle with the loose +fragments brought from a distance by various agencies. They are found +upon and among the glacier-worn pebbles, especially where the latter +have themselves been disturbed since their accumulation. They are also +found among water-worn pebbles, wherever the rocky beds of our rivers or +the rocky bluffs of our sea-shores crumble down. In investigating the +character of loose materials transported from greater or less distances, +either by the agency of glaciers or by water-currents, it is important +at the very outset to discriminate between these deposits of older date +and the local accessions mingling with them. + +Occasionally we may have also to distinguish between all these deposits +and the _débris_ brought down by land-slides, or by sudden freshets +transporting to a distance a vast amount of loose materials which are +neither ice-worn nor water-worn. At Rossberg, for instance, in the +Canton of Schwitz, the land-slide which buried the village of Goldau +under a terrific avalanche, and filled a part of the Lake of Lauertz, +spread an immense number of huge boulders across the valley, some of +which even rolled up the opposite side to a considerable height. Many of +these boulders might easily be mistaken for erratic boulders, were not +the aggregate of these loose materials traceable to the hills from which +they descended. In this case water had no part in loosening or bringing +down this mass of fragments. They simply rolled from the declivity, and +stopped when they had exhausted the momentum imparted to them by their +weight. In the case of the _débâcle_ of Bagnes, above Martigny, in a +valley leading to the St. Bernard, the circumstances were very +different. A glacier, advancing beyond its usual limits and rising +against the opposite mountain-slope, dammed up the waters of the torrent +and caused a lake to be formed. The obstruction gave way in the course +of time, and the waters of the lake rushed out, carrying along with +them huge boulders and a mass of loose materials of all sorts, and +scattering them over the plain below. Such an accumulation of _débris_ +differs from the pebbles and loose fragments found in river-beds. The +comparatively short distance over which they are carried, and the +suddenness of the transportation, allow no time for the abrasion which +produces the smooth surfaces of water-worn pebbles or the polished and +scratched surfaces of glacier-worn ones. In the latter case, we have +seen that the pebbles, being so set in the ice as to expose only one +side, may be only partially polished, while others, more loosely held +and turning in their sockets, may receive the same high polish on every +side. In such a case the lines will intersect one another, in +consequence of the different position in which the stone has been held +at different times. No such appearances exist in the water-worn pebbles: +their blunt surfaces, smoothed and rounded uniformly by the action of +the water in which they have been rolled or tossed about, present +everywhere the same aspect. + +The correlation between these different loose materials and the position +in which they are found helps us also to detect their origin. The loose +materials bearing glacier-marks are always found resting upon surfaces +which have been worn, abraded, and engraved in the same manner, while +the water-worn pebbles are everywhere found resting upon rocks the +abrasion of which may be traced to water. It is true that in some +localities, as, for instance, in the gravel-pit of Mount Auburn, near +Cambridge, large masses of glacier-worn pebbles alternate with +beach-shingle; but it is easy to show that there was here a glacier +advancing into the sea, crowding its front moraine and the materials +carried under it over and into the shingle washed up by the waves upon +the beach. Not infrequently, also, river-pebbles may be found among +glacial materials. This is especially the case where, after the +disappearance of large glaciers, rivers have occupied their beds. +Examples of this kind may be seen in all the valleys of the Alps. + +But, besides the special character of the individual fragments, the true +origin of any accumulation of glacier-_débris_, commonly called drift, +may be detected by the total absence of stratification, so essential a +feature in all water-deposits. This absence of stratification throughout +its mass is, after all, the great and important characteristic of the +drift; and though I have alluded to it before, I reiterate it here, as +that which distinguishes it from all like accumulations under water. I +may be pardoned for dwelling upon this point, because the great +controversy among geologists respecting the nature and origin of the +sheet of loose materials scattered over a great part of the globe turns +upon it. The _débris_ of which the drift consists are thrown together +pell-mell, without any arrangement according to size or weight, larger +and smaller fragments being mixed so indiscriminately that the heaviest +materials may be on the very summit of the mass, and the lightest at the +bottom in immediate contact with the underlying rock, or the larger +pieces may stand at any level in the mass of finer ones. Impalpable +powder, coarse sand, rounded, polished, and scratched fragments of every +size are mixed together in a homogeneous paste, in which the larger +materials are imbedded, to use a homely, but expressive comparison, like +raisins and currants in a pudding. The adhesive paste holding all these +fragments together is, no doubt, the result of the friction to which the +whole was subjected under the glacier, and which has worked some of the +softer materials into a kind of cement. + +The mode of aggregation of water-worn materials is very different. +Examine the shingle along our beaches: we find it so distributed as to +show that the fading tide-wave has carried the lighter materials farther +than the heavier ones, and the successive deposits exhibit an imperfect +cross-stratification resulting from changes in the height of the tide +and the direction of the wind. Moreover, in any materials collected +under water we find the heavier ones at the bottom, the lighter on the +top. It is true that large angular boulders may occasionally be found +resting upon beach-shingle, but their presence in such a connection is +easily explained. They may have been dropped there by floating icebergs, +or have fallen from crumbling drift-cliffs. + +I should add, in speaking of drift-materials, that, while we find the +large angular boulders resting above them, we occasionally find boulders +of unusual size mingled with them; but, when this is the case, such +massive fragments are more or less rounded, polished, and marked in the +same way as the smaller pebbles, or as the surfaces over which the +glacier has passed. This is important to remember, because, when we +examine the drift in countries where the ice, during the glacier-period, +overtopped nearly all the mountains, so that few fragments could fall +from them upon its surface, we find scarcely any angular boulders, while +the drift is interspersed with larger fragments of this character, +carried under the ice, instead of on its back. Another distinction +between water-worn deposits and drift consists in the fact that the +former are washed clean, while the latter always retains the mud +gathered during its journey and spread throughout its mass. + +In summing up the glacial evidences, I must not omit the moraines, +though I have described them so fully in a previous article that I need +not do more than allude to them here; but any argument for the glacial +theory which did not include these characteristic walls erected by +glaciers would be most imperfect. We need hardly discuss the theory of +currents with reference to the formation of terminal moraines, extending +across the valleys from side to side. Any current powerful enough to +bring the boulders and _débris_ of all sorts of which these walls are +composed to the places where they are found would certainly not build +them up with such regularity, but would sweep them away or scatter them +along the bottom of the valley. That this is actually the case is seen +in the lower course of the valley of the Rhone, where there are no +transverse moraines, while they are frequent and undisturbed in the +upper part of the valley. This is no doubt owing to the fact, that, when +the main glacier had already retreated considerably up the valley, the +lateral glaciers from the chains of the Combin and the Diablerets still +reached the valley of the Rhone at a lower point, and barred the outlet +of the waters from the glaciers above. A lake was thus formed, which, +when the lower glaciers retreated up the lateral valleys, swept away all +the lower transverse moraines, and formed the flat bottom of Martigny. +In this case, the moraines were totally obliterated; but there are many +other instances in which the materials have been only broken up and +scattered over a wider surface by currents. In such remodelled moraines, +the glacier-mud has, of course, been more or less washed away. We have +here a blending of the action of water with that of the glacier; and, +indeed, how could it be otherwise, when the colossal glaciers of past +ages gradually disappeared or retreated to the mountain-heights? The +wasting ice must have occasioned immense freshets, the action of which +we shall trace hereafter, when examining the formation of our +drift-ponds, of our river-beds and estuaries, as well as the +river-terraces standing far above the present water-level. + +And now, if it be asked how much of this evidence for the former +existence of glaciers is to be found in Great Britain, I answer, that +there is not a valley in Switzerland where all these traces are found in +greater perfection than in the valleys of the Scotch Highlands, or of +the mountains of Ireland and Wales, or of the lake-region in England. +Not a link is wanting to the chain. Polished surfaces, traversed by +striæ, grooves, and furrows, with a sheet of drift resting immediately +upon them, extend throughout the realm,--the _roches moutonnées_ +raise their rounded backs from the ground there as in +Switzerland,--transverse moraines bar their valleys and lateral ones +border them, and the boulders from the hill-sides are scattered over the +plains as thickly as between the Alps and the Jura, and are here and +there perched upon the summits of isolated hills. This being the case, +let us examine a little more closely the local phenomena connected with +the ancient extension of glaciers in this region, and especially the +parallel roads of Glen Roy. + +[Illustration: + + G. R. Glen Roy. + M. Moeldhu Hill. + S. Spean River. + G. S. Glen Spean. + L. Loch Laggan. + T. Loch Treig. + G. Glen Gloy. + L. O. Loch Lochy. + A. Loch Arkeig. + E. Loch Eil. + N. Ben Nevis. + 1,2,3. The three parallel roads.] + +Among the Grampian Hills, a little to the northeast of Ben Nevis, lies +the valley of Glen Roy, a winding valley trending in a northeasterly +direction, and some ten miles in length. Across the mouth of this +valley, at right angles with it, runs the valley of Glen Spean, trending +from east to west, Glen Roy thus opening directly at its southern +extremity into Glen Spean. Around the walls of the Glen Roy valley run +three terraces, one above the other, at different heights, like so many +roads artificially cut in the sides of the valley, and indeed they go by +the name of the "parallel roads." These three terraces, though in a less +perfect state of preservation, are repeated for a short distance at +exactly the same levels on the southern wall of the valley of Glen +Spean, just opposite the opening of the Glen Roy valley; that is, they +make the whole circuit of Glen Roy, stop abruptly, on both sides, at its +southern extremity, and reappear again on the opposite wall of Glen +Spean. I should add, however, that all three do not come to this sudden +termination; for the lowest of these terraces turns eastward into the +valley of Glen Spean, following the whole curve of the eastern half of +the valley, while, of the two upper terraces, there is no trace +whatever, nor is there any indication that either of the three ever +existed in the western half of the valley. When I first visited the +region, these phenomena had already been the subject of earnest +discussion among English geologists. The commonly accepted explanation +of the facts was that these terraces marked ancient sea-levels at a time +when the ocean penetrated much farther into the interior, and Glen Roy +and the adjoining valleys were as many fiords or estuaries. And though +the present elevation of the locality made such an interpretation +improbable at first sight, the first or highest of the terraces being +eleven hundred and forty-four feet above the present sea-level, the +second eighty-two feet below the first, and the third and lowest two +hundred and twelve feet below the second, or eight hundred odd feet +above the level of the sea, it was thought that the oscillations of the +land, its alternate subsidences and upheavals, proved by the modern +results of geology to have been so great and so frequent, might account +even for so remarkable a change. There are, however, other objections to +this theory not so easily explained away. There are no traces of organic +life upon these terraces. If they were ancient sea-beaches, we should +expect to find upon them the remains of marine animals, shells, +crustacea, and the like. All the explanations given to lessen the +significance of this absence of organic remains are futile. Again, why +should the lower terrace alone be continued into the eastern end of the +valley of Glen Spean, while there are no terraces at all in its western +part, since both must have been as fully open to the sea as Glen Roy +valley itself? This seemed the more inexplicable since all the terraces +exist on the valley-wall opposite the outlet of Glen Roy, showing that +this sheet of water, wherever it came from, filled the valley itself and +the space between it and the southern wall of Glen Spean, but failed to +spread, on either side of that space, into the eastern and western +extension of Glen Spean. It is evident, that, at the time the water +filled Glen Roy, some obstruction blocked the valley of Glen Spean, both +to the east and west, leaving, however, that space in the centre free +into which Glen Roy opens, while, by the time the water had sunk to the +level of the lowest terrace, one of these barriers, that to the east, +must have been removed, for the lowest terrace, as I have said, is +continuous throughout the eastern part of Glen Spean.[B] + +Prepossessed as I was with the idea of glacial agency in times anterior +to ours, these phenomena appeared to me under a new aspect. I found the +bottom of Glen Spean so worn by glacial action as to leave no doubt in +my mind that it must have been the bed of a great glacier, and Dr. +Buckland fully concurred with me in this impression. Indeed, the face of +the country throughout that region presents not only the glacier-marks +in great perfection, but other evidences of the ancient presence of +glaciers. There are moraines at the lower end of Glen Spean, remodelled, +it is true, by the action of currents, but still retaining enough of +their ancient character to be easily recognized; and some of the finest +examples of the _roches moutonnées_ I have seen in Scotland are to be +found at the entrance of the valley of Loch Treig, a lateral valley +opening into Glen Spean on its southern side, and, as we shall see +hereafter, intimately connected with the history of the parallel roads +of Glen Roy. These _roches moutonnées_ may very fairly be compared with +those of the Grimsel, and exhibit all the characteristic features of the +Alpine ones. One of them, lying on the western side of the valley where +it opens into Glen Spean, is crossed by a trap-dike. The general surface +of the hill, consisting of rather soft mica, has been slightly worn down +by atmospheric agencies, so that the dike stands out some three-quarters +of an inch above it. On the dike, however, the glacier-marks extend for +its whole length in great perfection, while they have entirely +disappeared from the surrounding surfaces, so as to leave the dike thus +standing out in full relief. This is an instructive case, showing how +little disintegration has gone on since the drift-period. All the +currents that have swept over it, all the rains that have beaten upon +it, have not worn away one inch from the original surface of the hill. I +have observed many other _roches moutonnées_ in Scotland, especially +about the neighborhood of Loch Awe, Loch Fyne, and Loch Etive. In fact, +they may be found in almost all the glens of Scotland, in the +lake-region of England, and in the valleys of Wales and Ireland. + +Following the glacial indications wherever we could find them in the +country about Glen Roy, it became evident to me that the whole western +range of the Grampian Hills had once been a great centre of glaciers, +that they had come down toward Glen Spean through all the valleys on the +mountain-slopes to the north and south of it, so that this valley had +become, as it were, the great drainage-bed for the masses of ice thus +poured into it laterally, and moving down the valley from east to west +as one immense glacier. It is natural to suppose, that, at the +breaking-up of the great sheet of ice which, if my view of the case is +correct, must have covered the whole country at this time, the ice would +yield more readily in a valley like that of Glen Roy, lying open to the +south and receiving the full force of the sun, than in those on the +opposite side of Glen Spean, opening to the north. At all events, it is +evident that at some time posterior to this universal glacial period, +when the ice began to retreat, Glen Roy became the basin of a glacial +lake such as we now find in the Alps of Switzerland, where occasionally +a closed valley becomes a trough, as it were, into which the water from +the surrounding hills is drained. In such a lake no animals are found, +such as exist in any other sheet of fresh water, and this would account +for the absence of any organic remains on the terraces of Glen Roy. But +at first sight it seemed that this theory was open in one respect to the +same objection as the other. What prevented this sheet of water from +spreading east and west in Glen Spean? If it not only filled Glen Roy, +but extended to the southern side of Glen Spean immediately opposite +the opening of Glen Roy, what prevented it from filling the whole of +that valley also? In endeavoring to answer this question, I found the +solution of the mystery. + +The bed of Glen Spean, through its whole extent from east to west, is +marked, as I have said, by glacial action, in rectilinear scratches and +furrows. This westward track of the main glacier is crossed transversely +near the centre of the valley by two other glacier-tracks cutting it at +right angles. Upon tracing these cross-tracks carefully, I became +satisfied, that, after the surrounding ice had begun to yield, after the +masses of ice which descended from the northern and southern slopes of +the mountains into Glen Spean had begun to retreat, and to form local +limited glaciers, two of those lateral glaciers, one coming down from +Ben Nevis on the southwest, the other from Loch Treig on the southeast, +extended farther than the others and stretched across Glen Spean.[C] +These two glaciers for a long time formed barriers across the western +and eastern extension of this valley, damming back the waters which +filled Glen Roy and the central part of Glen Spean. + +Evidently the glacier descending from Loch Treig was the first to yield, +for, by the time the Glen Roy lake had sunk to the level of the lowest +terrace, the entrance to the eastern extension of the valley must have +been free, otherwise the water could not have spread throughout that +basin as we find it did; but it would seem that by the time the western +barrier, or the glacier from Ben Nevis, was removed, the sheet of water +was too far reduced to have left permanent marks of its outflow into the +Great Glen, except by disturbing and remodelling the large moraines of +the older Glen Spean glacier. There are faint indications of other +terraces in Glen Roy, even at a higher level than the uppermost parallel +road, owing their origin probably to the short duration of a higher +level of the glacier-lake, when the great general glacier had not yet +been lowered to a more permanent level determined by a limited +circumscription within the walls of the valleys. There are other +terraces in neighboring valleys at still different levels,--in Glen +Gloy, for instance, where the one horizontal road was no doubt formed in +consequence of the damming of the valley by a glacier from Loch Arkeig. +Mr. Darwin has seen another in Glen Kinfillen, which I would explain by +the presence of a glacier in the Great Glen, the marks of which are +particularly distinct about the eastern end of Glen Garry. + +The evidence of the ancient presence of glaciers is no less striking in +other parts of the Scotch Highlands. Between the southeastern range of +the Grampian Hills, in Forfarshire and Perthshire, and the opposite +ridge of Sidlaw Hills, stretches the broad valley of Strathmore. At the +time when Glen Spean received the masses of ice from the slopes of the +western Grampian range, the glaciers descended from the valleys on the +southern slope of the southeastern range and from those on the northern +slope of Sidlaw Hills into the capacious bed of the valley which divides +them. The glacial phenomena of this region present a striking +resemblance in their general relations to those of the Alps and the +Jura. The Grampian range on the northern side of Strathmore valley +occupies the same position in reference to that of the Sidlaw Hills +opposite, as does the range of the Alps to that of the Jura, while the +intervening valley may be compared to the plain of Switzerland. As from +the Bernese Oberland and from the valleys of the Reuss and Limmath +gigantic glaciers came down and stretched across the plain of +Switzerland to the Jura, scattering their erratic boulders over its +summit and upon its slopes at the time of their greater extension, and, +as they withdrew into the higher Alpine valleys, leaving them along +their retreating track at the foot of the Jura and over the whole plain, +so did the glaciers from Glen Prossen and parallel valleys on the +Grampian Mountains extend across the valley of Strathmore, dropping +their boulders not only on the slopes and along the base of the Sidlaw +Hills, but scattering them in their retreat throughout the valley, until +they were themselves reduced to isolated glaciers in the higher valleys. +At the same time other glaciers came down from the heights of +Schihallion on the west, and, descending through the valley of the Tay, +joined the great masses of ice in the valley of Strathmore, thus +combining with the eastern ice-field, just as the glacier from Mont +Blanc and the valley of the Rhone formerly combined in the western part +of Switzerland with those of the Bernese Oberland. The relations are +identical, though the geographical position is reversed,--the higher +range, or the Grampian Hills, lying to the north in Scotland, and the +lower one, or the Sidlaw Hills, to the south, while in Switzerland, on +the contrary, the higher range lies to the south and the lower to the +north. I have alluded especially to Glen Prossen because the glacial +marks in that valley are remarkably distinct, the whole bed of the +valley being scratched, polished, and furrowed by the great rasp which +has moved over it, while the concentric moraines at its lower extremity +are very striking. But these signs, so perfectly preserved in Glen +Prossen, recur with greater or less intensity in all the corresponding +valleys, leaving no doubt that the same phenomena existed over the whole +region. + +Among the localities of Scotland where the indications of glacial action +are most marked is the region about Stirling. Near Stirling Castle the +polished surfaces of the rocks with their distinct grooves and scratches +show us the path followed by the ice as it moved down in a northeasterly +direction toward the Frith of Forth from the mountains on the northwest. +To the west of Edinburgh, also, there is a broad glacier-track, showing +that here also the ice was ploughing its way eastward to find an outlet +on the shore. + +The western slope of the great Scotch range is no less remarkable for +its glacier-traces. The heads of Loch Long, Loch Fyne, Loch Awe, and +Loch Leven everywhere show upon their margins the most distinct glacial +polish and furrows, while from the trend of these marks and the +distribution of the moraines, especially about Ben Cruachan, it is +obvious that in this part of the country the glaciers moved westward and +southward. About Aberdeen, on the contrary, they moved eastward, while +in the vicinity of Elgin they advanced toward the north. + +It thus appears that the whole range of the Grampians formed a great +centre for the distribution of glaciers, and that a colossal ice-field +spread itself over the whole country, extending in every direction +toward the lower lands and the sea-shore. As the glaciers which now +descend through all the valleys of the Alps, along their northern as +well as their southern slopes, and in their eastern as well as their +western prolongation, though limited, in our days, within the +valley-walls, nevertheless once covered the plain of Switzerland and +that of Northern Italy, so did the ice-fields of the Grampians during +the greatest extension of the Scotch glaciers spread over the whole +country. They also were, in course of time, reduced to local glaciers, +circumscribed within the higher valleys of the more mountainous parts of +the country, until they totally disappeared, as those of Switzerland +would also have done, had it not been for the greater elevation of that +country above the level of the sea. Scotland nowhere rises above the +present level of perpetual snow, while in Switzerland the whole Alpine +range has an altitude favorable to the preservation of glaciers. In the +range of the Jura, however, which had at one time its local glaciers +also, but which nowhere now rises above the line of perpetual snow, they +have disappeared as completely as in the Grampian Hills. + +It would lead me too far, were I to give here a special account of all +the investigations I made in 1840 upon the distribution of glaciers in +Great Britain. I will therefore only point out a few of the more +distinct areas of distribution. The region surrounding Ben Wyvis formed +such a centre of dispersion from which glaciers radiated, and we have +another in the Pentland Hills about Edinburgh. In Northumberland, the +Cheviot Hills present a glacial centre of the same kind, and in the +Westmoreland Hills we have still another. In the last-named locality, +the glacial tracks can be followed in various directions, some of them +descending toward the northwest from the heights of Helvellyn, others +moving southward toward Ambleside. In Wales the same kind of glacial +distribution has been observed; but, as Professor Ramsay has treated +this subject in full, I would refer my readers to his masterly work for +a further account of the ancient Welch glaciers. In Ireland I had also +opportunities of making extensive local investigations of glacial +action. I observed the centres of distribution in the neighborhood of +Belfast, in the County of Wicklow, and in Cavan. + +But nowhere are these phenomena more striking than in Fermanagh County +about the neighborhood of Enniskillen, and more especially in the +immediate vicinity of Florence Court, the seat of the Earl of +Enniskillen. On the northern slope of Ben Calcagh are five valleys lying +parallel with each other and opening into the valley of Loch Nilly, +which runs from east to west at the base of the mountain. A road now +passes through this valley, and, where it crosses the mouth of either of +the five valleys rising towards the mountain-slope, it cuts alternately +through the two horns of a crescent-shaped wall which bars the lower end +of every one of them. These crescent-shaped mounds are so many terminal +moraines, built up by the five glaciers formerly descending through +these lateral valleys into the valley of Loch Nilly. They bore the same +relation to each other as the glaciers de Tour and d'Argentière, the +Glacier des Bois with the Mer de Glace, the Glacier des Bossons and the +Glacier de Taconet, now bear to each other in the valley of Chamouni; +and were it not for the smaller dimensions of the whole, any one +familiar with the tracks of ancient glaciers might easily fancy himself +crossing the ancient moraines at the foot of the northern slope of the +range of Mont Blanc, through which the Arve has cut its channel, the +valley of Chamouni standing in the same relation to Mont Blanc as the +valley of Loch Nilly does to Ben Calcagh. + +I have dwelt thus at length on the glaciers of Great Britain because +they have been the subject of my personal investigations. But the Scotch +Highlands and the mountains of Wales and Ireland are but a few of the +many centres of glacial distribution in Europe. From the Scandinavian +Alps glaciers descended also to the shores of the Northern Ocean and the +Baltic Sea. There is not a fiord of the Norway shore that does not bear +upon its sides the tracks of the great masses of ice which once forced +their way through it, and thus found an outlet into the sea, as in +Scotland. Indeed, under the water, as far as it is possible to follow +them through the transparent medium, I have noticed in Great Britain and +in the United States the same traces of glacial action as higher up, so +that these ancient glaciers must have extended not only to the +sea-shore, but into the ocean, as they do now in Greenland. Nor is this +all. Scandinavian boulders, scattered upon English soil and over the +plains of Northern Germany, tell us that not only the Baltic Sea, but +the German Ocean also, was bridged across by ice, on which these masses +of rock were transported. In short, over the whole of Northern Europe, +from the Arctic Ocean to the northern borders of its southern +promontories, we find all the usual indications of glacial action, +showing that a continuous sheet of ice once spread over nearly the whole +continent, while from all the mountain-ranges descended those more +limited glacial tracks terminating frequently in transverse moraines +across the valleys, showing, that, as the general ice-sheet broke up and +contracted into local glaciers, every cluster or chain of hills became a +centre of glacial dispersion, such as the Alps are now, such as the +Jura, the Highlands of Scotland, the mountains of Wales and Ireland, the +Alps of Scandinavia, the Hartz, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and many +others have been in ancient times. + + * * * * * + +In the next article we shall consider the glacial phenomena as they +exist in America. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] See January No., p. 61. + +[B] Having enumerated the characteristic features of the glacial +phenomena in the preceding pages, I throw into this note some +explanation which may render my views of the parallel roads more +intelligible, not to interrupt again the exposition with details. It +would be desirable, however, that the reader should first make himself +thoroughly familiar with the localities concerned, before proceeding any +farther. I would therefore state here, that, in the wood-cut opposite, +G. R. indicates the valley of Glen Roy, with the three parallel roads +marked 1, 2, 3. Glen Spean is designated by G. S., and the river flowing +at its bottom by S. Loch Laggan, out of which the River Spean rises, is +marked L. G. indicates Glen Gloy, a little valley to the northwest of +Glen Roy, with a single terrace. Loch Treig is designated by T., Loch +Lochy by L. O., Loch Arkeig by A., and Moeldhu Hill by M., while E. +indicates Loch Eil. The Great Glen of Scotland, through which the +Caledonian Canal runs, extends in the direction of L. O. and E. The +position of Ben Nevis is designated by N. The dotted area between N. and +M. marks the place occupied by the great glacier of Ben Nevis, when it +extended as far as Moeldhu; while the close continuous lines in front of +Loch Treig indicate the direction of the glacial scratches left across +Glen Spean by the glacier of Loch Treig, when it extended as far as the +eastern termination of the two upper terraces. It ought to be +remembered, in this connection, that the bottom of the valley of the +Spean, as well as that of Glen Roy, is occupied by loose materials, +partly drift, that is, materials acted upon by glaciers, and partly +decomposed fragments of rocks brought down by the torrents, greatly +impeding the observation of the polished surfaces. The river-bed is cut +through this deposit, and here and there through the underlying rock. +Besides the parallel roads, there are also peculiar accumulations of +loose materials in Glen Roy and Glen Spean, more particularly connected +with the lowest terrace, which Mr. Darwin and Professor Jamieson have +shown to be little deltas formed during the existence of the lake of +Glen Roy at the bottom of the gullies intersecting the shelves of the +upper roads. The outlet for the water at the period during which the +second terrace was formed, not known when I visited Glen Roy, has been +discovered by Mr. Milne-Holme, and also observed by Professor Jamieson. +During the formation of the upper terrace, the waters escaped through +the westernmost tributary of the River Spey, in the direction of the +northeast corner of the wood-cut, and during that of the lowest terrace, +at the eastern end of Loch Laggan, also through the valley of the Spey. +The state of preservation of the parallel roads is such as to prove that +no disturbance of any importance can have taken place in the country +since they were formed. Far from believing, therefore, that these +remarkable shelves are ancient sea-beaches, I am prepared to maintain, +that, had the area occupied by them been submerged only for a few days, +under an ocean rising and falling for several feet with every tide, no +vestige would have been left of their former existence. + +[C] The wood-cut on p. 730 is a reproduction of the little map +accompanying a paper of mine upon "The Glacial Theory and its Recent +Progress," printed in the "Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal" for +October, 1842. I might have greatly improved the topography, and +represented more accurately the details of the phenomenon, by availing +myself of the much larger and very minute map recently published by +Professor Thomas F. Jamieson, of Aberdeen; but I thought it advisable to +leave my first sketch as I presented it twenty-two years ago, in order +to show that Sir Charles Lyell is mistaken in ascribing (see "Antiquity +of Man," pp. 260, 261) the discovery of the glacier of Loch Treig to +Professor Jamieson. A comparison of his statements with mine will show +that the solution of the problem offered by him is identical with that +proposed by me, as he himself candidly admits ("Quarterly Journal of the +Geological Society" for August, 1863, p. 239). I have only one fault to +find with his observations, and, as I have never revisited the locality +since, this remark may satisfy him that my examination of its features +was not so hurried as he supposes. Professor Jamieson confounds the +effects of two distinct glaciers moving in different valleys as the +action of one and the same glacier. In my paper, it is true, I made no +allusion to the great glacier of Glen Spean, the existence of which I +had recognized along the river from Loch Laggan nearly to the Caledonian +Canal. I publish my observations upon this great central glacier for the +first time in the present article, having omitted them in my +contributions upon this subject to the scientific periodicals of the day +simply because I thought best not to complicate my exposition of the +facts concerning the parallel roads by considerations foreign to their +origin, convinced as I was, from the manner in which the glacial theory +was then received, that they would not be understood, and still less +admitted. But now that all the geologists of Great Britain seem to have +given their adhesion to it, I may be permitted to state that I already +knew then, what Professor Jamieson has overlooked in his latest paper, +that a separate glacier had occupied the valley of the Spean _prior_ to +the formation of the parallel roads, and that at that time the glacier +of Loch Treig was only a lateral tributary of the same, just as the +glacier of the Thierberg is a tributary of the glacier of the Aar. It +was not until the Glen Spean glacier had retreated to the hills east of +Loch Laggan that the glacier of Loch Treig could form a barrier across +Glen Spean, and thus dam the waters in Glen Roy which produced the +parallel roads. The marks left by the great Glen Spean glacier in the +valley are mistaken by Professor Jamieson for indications, that, in its +greatest extension, the glacier of Loch Treig not only advanced across +Glen Spean, but divided into two branches, one moving westward down Glen +Spean, the other eastward up Glen Spean, as far as Loch Laggan. Any one +sufficiently familiar with existing glaciers to compare their action +with the phenomena referred to above will at once see the impossibility +of such a course for any glacier coming down from Loch Treig. At the +time the Grampians had become a separate centre of glacial action a +great glacier must have moved down, towards the Caledonian Canal, +through Glen Spean, receiving as tributaries lateral glaciers not only +from Loch Treig and Glen Roy, but also from all the other minor lateral +valleys emptying into Glen Spean, the largest of which must have come +from the range of Ben Nevis,--just as the great glacier of the valley of +the Rhone once received as tributaries all the glaciers coming down into +that valley from the southern slope of the Bernese Oberland, and from +the northern slope of the Valesian Alps, and at one time also from the +eastern slopes of the range of Mont Blanc. And when the large glacier +occupying the lower, and therefore warmer, level gradually disappeared +and retreated far away to levels where it could maintain itself against +the effect of a returning milder climate, the opening spring of our era, +as we may call it, the lateral glaciers, arising from the nearer high +grounds, could extend across the valleys, but not before. + + + + +UNDER THE CLIFF. + + + "Still ailing, Wind? Wilt be appeased or no? + Which needs the other's office, thou or I? + Dost want to be disburthened of a woe, + And can, in truth, my voice untie + Its links, and let it go? + + "Art thou a dumb, wronged thing that would be righted, + Intrusting thus thy cause to me? Forbear! + No tongue can mend such pleadings; faith, requited + With falsehood,--love, at last aware + Of scorn,--hopes, early blighted,-- + + "We have them; but I know not any tone + So fit as thine to falter forth a sorrow: + Dost think men would go mad without a moan, + If they knew any way to borrow + A pathos like thy own? + + "Which sigh wouldst mock, of all the sighs? The one + So long escaping from lips starved and blue, + That lasts while on her pallet-bed the nun + Stretches her length; her foot comes through + The straw she shivers on,-- + + "You had not thought she was so tall; and spent, + Her shrunk lids open; her lean fingers shut + Close, close; their sharp and livid nails indent + The clammy palm; then all is mute: + That way, the spirit went. + + "Or wouldst thou rather that I understand + Thy will to help me?--like the dog I found + Once, pacing sad this solitary strand, + Who would not take my food, poor hound, + But whined and licked my hand." + + * * * * * + + All this, and more, comes from some young man's pride + Of power to see, in failure and mistake, + Relinquishment, disgrace, on every side, + Merely examples for his sake, + Helps to his path untried: + + Instances he must--simply recognize? + Oh, more than so!--must, with a learner's zeal, + Make doubly prominent, twice emphasize, + By added touches that reveal + The god in babe's disguise. + + Oh, he knows what defeat means, and the rest, + Himself the undefeated that shall be! + Failure, disgrace, he flings them you to test,-- + His triumph in eternity + Too plainly manifest! + + Whence judge if he learn forthwith what the wind + Means in its moaning,--by the happy, prompt, + Instinctive way of youth, I mean,--for kind + Calm years, exacting their accompt + Of pain, mature the mind: + + And some midsummer morning, at the lull + Just about daybreak, as he looks across + A sparkling foreign country, wonderful + To the sea's edge for gloom and gloss + Next minute must annul,-- + + Then, when the wind begins among the vines, + So low, so low, what shall it mean but this? + "Here is the change beginning, here the lines + Circumscribe beauty, set to bliss + The limit time assigns." + + Nothing can be as it has been before; + Better, so call it, only not the same. + To draw one beauty into our hearts' core, + And keep it changeless! such our claim; + So answered,--Never more! + + Simple? Why, this is the old woe o' the world, + Tune to whose rise and fall we live and die. + Rise through it, then! Rejoice that man is hurled + From change to change unceasingly, + His soul's wings never furled! + + That's a new question; still remains the fact, + Nothing endures: the wind moans, saying so; + We moan in acquiescence: there's life's pact, + Perhaps probation,--do _I_ know? + God does: endure His act! + + Only, for man, how bitter not to grave + On his soul's hands' palms one fair, good, wise thing + Just as he grasped it! For himself, death's wave; + While time first washes--ah, the sting!-- + O'er all he'd sink to save. + + + + +SEVEN WEEKS IN THE GREAT YO-SEMITE. + + +It is as hard to leave San Francisco as to get there. To a traveller +paying his first visit it has the interest of a new planet. It ignores +the meteorological laws which govern the rest of the world. There is no +snow there. There are no summer showers. The tailor recognizes no +aphelion or perihelion in his custom: the thin woollen suit which his +patron had made in April is comfortably worn until April again. The only +change of stockings there is from wet to dry, or from soiled to clean. +Save that in so-called winter frequent rainfalls alternate with spotless +intervals of amber weather, and that _soi-disant_ summer is one entire +amber mass, its unbroken divine days concrete in it, there is no +inequality on which to forbid the banns between May and December. In San +Francisco there is no work for the scene-shifter of Nature: the wealth +of that great dramatist, the year, resulting in the same manner as the +poverty of dabblers in private theatricals,--a single flat doing service +for the entire play. Thus, save for the purpose of notes-of-hand, the +Almanac of San Francisco might replace its mutable months and seasons +with one great kindly, constant, sumptuous All The Year Round. + +Out of this benignant sameness what glorious fruits are produced! Fruit +enough metaphorical: for the scientific man or artist who cannot make +hay while such a sun shines from April to November must be a slothful +laborer indeed. But fruit also literal: for what joy of vegetation is +lacking to the man who every month in the year can look through his +study-window on a green lawn, and have strawberries and cream for his +breakfast,--who can sit down to this royal fruit, and at the same time +to apricots, peaches, nectarines, blackberries, raspberries, melons, +figs both yellow and purple, early apples, and grapes of three kinds? + +Another delightful fact of San Francisco is the Occidental Hotel. Its +comfort is like that of a royal home. There is nothing inn-ish about it. +Remembering the chief hotels of many places, I am constrained to say +that I have never, even in New York, seen its equal for elegance of +appointment, attentiveness of servants, or excellence of _cuisine_. +Having come to this extreme of civilization from the extreme of +barbarism, we found that it actually needed an exertion to leap from the +lap of luxury, after a fortnight's pleasaunce, and take to the woods +again in flannel and corduroys. + +But far more seductive than the beautiful bay, the heavenly climate, the +paradisiacal fruits, and the royal hotel of San Francisco, were the old +friends whom we found, and the new ones we made there. With but one +exception, (and that an express-company, not a man,) we were received by +all our San-Francisco acquaintance in a kind and helpful manner, with a +welcome and a cheer as delightful to ourselves as it was honorable to +them. Need I say whose brotherly hands were among the very first +outstretched to us, in whose happy home we found our sweetest rest, by +whose radiant face and golden speech we were most lovingly detained +evening after evening and far into the night? A few days ago when we +read that dreadful message, "_Starr King is dead_," the lightning that +carried it seemed to end in our hearts. We withered under it; California +had lost its soul for us; at noon or in dreams that balmy land would +nevermore be the paradise it once was to us. The last hand that pressed +our own, when we sailed for the Isthmus on our way home, was the same +that had been first to give us our California welcome. Just before the +lines were cast off, Starr King stood at the door of our state-room, and +said,-- + +"I could not bear to have you go away without one more good-bye. Here +are the _cartes-de-visite_ I promised. They look hard-worked, but they +look like me. Good bye! God bless you! I hope to make a visit to the +East next summer, and then we will get together somewhere by the sea. +Good bye!" + +He went down the ladder. When the steamer glided off, his bright face +sent benedictions after us as far as we could see; and then, for the +last time on earth, that great, that good, that beloved man faded from +our sight,--but, oh! never from our hearts, either in the here or the +hereafter. "We shall see him, but not now." We shall be together with +him "in the summer, by the sea"; but that summer shall have other glory +than the sun to lighten it, and the sea shall be of crystal. + +King was to have joined us in our Yo-Semite trip. We little knew that we +were losing, for this world, our last opportunity of close daily +intercourse with his sweet spirit, though we were grievously +disappointed when he told us, on the eve of our setting out, that work +for the nation must detain him in San Francisco, after all. + +If report was true, we were going to the original site of the Garden of +Eden,--into a region which out-Bendemered Bendemere, out-valleyed the +valley of Rasselas, surpassed the Alps in its waterfalls, and the +Himmal'yeh in its precipices. As for the two former subjects of +comparison, we never met any tourist who could adjust the question from +his own experience; but the superiority of the Yo-Semite to the Alpine +cataracts was a matter put beyond doubt by repeated judgments, and a +couple of English officers who had explored the wildest Himmal'yeh +scenery told Starr King that there was no precipice in Asia to be +compared for height or grandeur with Tu-toch-anula and Tis-sa-ack. + +We were going into the vale whose giant domes and battlements had months +before thrown their photographic shadow through Watkins's camera across +the mysterious wide continent, causing exclamations of awe at Goupil's +window, and ecstasy in Dr. Holmes's study. At Goupil's counter and in +Starr King's drawing-room we had gazed on them by the hour already,--I, +let me confess it, half a Thomas-a-Didymus to Nature, unwilling to +believe the utmost true of her till I could put my finger in her very +prints. Now we were going to test her reported largess for ourselves. + +No Saratoga affair, this! A total lack of tall trunks, frills, and +curling-kids. Driven by the oestrum of a Yo-Semite pilgrimage, the +San-Francisco belle forsakes (the Western vernacular is "goes back on") +her back-hair, abandons her capillary "waterfalls" for those of the +Sierra, and, like John Phoenix's old lady who had her whole osseous +system removed by the patent tooth-puller, departs, leaving her +"skeleton" behind her. The bachelor who cares to see unhooped womanhood +once more before he dies should go to the Yo-Semite. The scene was three +or four times presented to us during our seven weeks' camp +there,--though the trip is one which might well cost a feeble woman her +life. + +Our male preparations were of the most pioneer description. One wintry +day since my return I was riding in a train on the New-York Central, +when an undaunted herdsman, returning Westward, flushed with the sale of +beeves, accosted me with the question,--"Friend, yeou've travelled +consid'able, and believe in the religion of Natur', don't ye?" "Why so?" +I responded. "_Them boots_," replied my new acquaintance, pointing at a +pair with high knee-caps, like those our party wore to the Yo-Semite. +Otherwise, we took the oldest clothes we had,--and it is not difficult +to find that variety in the trunk of a recent overland stager. We were +armed with Ballard rifles, shot-guns, and Colt's revolvers which had +come with us across the continent; our ammunition we got in San +Francisco, together with all such commissariat-luxuries as were worth +transportation: our necessaries we left to be purchased at that +jumping-off place of civilization, Mariposa, whence we were to start our +pack-mules into the wilderness. Let me recommend tourists like +ourselves to include in the former catalogue plenty of canned fruits, +sardines, and apple-butter,--in the latter, a jug of sirup for the +inevitable camp slapjacks. No woodsman, as will presently appear in our +narrative, can tell when a slapjack may be the last plank between him +and starvation; and to this plank how powerfully sirup enables him to +stick! + +The only portion of our outfit which would have pleased an exquisite +(and he must be rather of the Count-Devereux than the Foppington-Flutter +school) was our horseflesh. That greatest of luxuries, a really good +saddle-animal, is readily and reasonably attainable in California. +Everybody rides there; if you wish to create a sensation with your +horsemanship in the streets of San Francisco, you must ride ill, not +well: everybody does this last. Even since the horse-railroad has begun +to clutter Montgomery Street (the San-Franciscan Boulevards) with its +cars, it is a daily matter to see capitalists and statesmen charging +through that thoroughfare on a gallop, which, if repeated in Broadway by +Henry G. Stebbins, would cost him his reputation on 'Change and his seat +in the next Congress. The nation of beggars-on-horseback which first +colonized California has left behind it many traditions unworthy of +conservation, and multitudinous fleas not at all traditional, but even +less keepworthy; but all honor be to the Spaniards, Greasers, and +Mixed-Breeds for having rooted the noble idea of horsemanship so firmly +in the country that even street-railroads cannot uproot it, and that +Americans who never sat even so little as an Atlantic-State's pony, on +coming here presently take to the saddle with all their hearts. In most +of the smaller Californian towns, a very serviceable half- or +quarter-breed saddle-horse is to be had for forty dollars,--the "breed" +portion of his blood being drawn from an Eastern stallion, the remaining +fraction being native or Mustang stock. This animal, if need be, will +live on road-side croppings nearly as well as a mule,--travel all day +long on an easy "lope," never offering to stop till fatigue makes him +fall,--and, if you let him, will take you through _chaparrals_, and up +and down precipices at whose bare suggestion an Eastern horse would +break his legs. Our party, seeking rather more ambitious mounts, +supplied itself, after a tour through the San-Francisco stables, with +saddle-animals at an average of seventy dollars apiece. This, payable in +gold, then amounted to one hundred dollars in notes; but the New-York +market could not have furnished us with such horses for one hundred and +fifty dollars. + +It may seem as if, like most cavalcades, we should never get started, +but I must linger a moment to do justice to our accoutrements. If there +be a more perfect saddle than the Californian, I would ride bare-back a +good way to get it. Anything more unlike the slippery little pad on +which we of the East amble about parks and suburban roads cannot be +imagined. It is not for a day, but for all time, and for those who spend +nearly the latter in it. Its wooden skeleton is as scientifically fitted +to the rider's form as an old "_incroyable's_" pair of pantaloons. There +is no such thing as getting tired in or of it. Rising to the lower +lumbar vertebrae behind, and in front terminating gracefully in a +broad-topped pommel, it enables one to lean back in descending, forward +in climbing, the great ridges on the path of California travel,--thus +affording capital relief both to one's self and one's horse, and +bringing in both from a fifty-miles' march comparatively unjaded. + +The stirrups of this saddle are broad hickory hoops, shaped nearly like +an Omega upside-down (U)[Transcriber's note: upside down Omega], left +unpolished so as to afford the most unshakable footing, covered with a +half-shoe of the stoutest leather, which renders it impossible for the +toe to slip through or the ankle to foul under any circumstances. +Attached to the straps from which these swing is a wide and neatly +ornamented stirrup-leather, which effectually prevents the grazing of +the rider's leg. The surcingle, or, _Californicè_, the _cinch_, is a +broad strip of hair-cloth with a padded ring at either end through which +you reeve and fasten with a half-hitch stout straps sewed to other rings +under the saddle-flaps. This arrangement is not only far securer than +our Eastern buckle, but enables you to graduate the tightness of your +girth much more delicately, and make a far snugger fit. + +The only particular in which I could not commend and adopt the native +practice was the Mexican bit. It is a dreadful instrument of torture, +putting immense leverage in the rider's hands, and enabling him at will +to tear the mouth of his horse to pieces; indeed, the horse on which it +is used is guided entirely by pressure on the opposite side of the neck +from that in which one seeks to turn him. Our Eastern way of drawing his +head around would so lift the bit as to drive him frantic. There are +very few horses of any breed, even the Mustang, that _never_ stumble; +and as I prefer lifting my horse to letting him break his knees or neck, +I want a bridle I can pull upon without tearing his mouth. So, in spite +of its handsome appearance and the very manageable single white cord +into which its two reins are braided, I eschewed the Mexican head-gear, +and took the ordinary Eastern snaffle and curb. Immense spurs completed +our accoutrement,--whips being here unknown. + +I may as well make a word-map of our route before going farther. +Pilgrims to the Yo-Semite ship themselves and their horses from San +Francisco by steamer to Stockton. This town is on the San Joaquin, the +most northerly of a series of rivers fed directly from the Sierra Nevada +water-shed, and here through the middle portion of the State,--a series, +indeed, continued through much of the still lower Pacific coast to the +Isthmus of Nicaragua. The Sacramento drains quite a different region, +that of the broad plains between the Sierra and Coast ranges, occupying +the northern portion of the State,--resembling in its physical features, +much more than any of the Pacific streams beside, the large isolated +trunks which drain the east slope of the Alleghanies. The Colorado is +almost the only other large river created from many tributaries, which +debouches between the Columbia and the Isthmus,--and that rises east of +the mathematical axis of the Rocky Mountains. The Yo-Semite valley is +one of the cradles through which the short Sierra-draining rivers reach +the ocean; its threading stream is the Merced; and if on any good +United-States Survey-map you will please to follow that river back to +the mountains, when your finger-nail touches the Sierra it will be (or +would, were the maps somewhat correcter) in the Great Yo-Semite. You +will then see that our course led us across three streams, after leaving +the San Joaquin at Stockton _en route_ for Mariposa,--the Stanislaus, +the Tuolomne, and the Main Merced. The distance from Stockton to +Mariposa is about one hundred miles, a small part of the way between +fenced ranches, a much greater part on wide, open, rolling plains, +somewhat like those of Nebraska, embraced between the two great ranges +of the State. Here and there you find an isolated herdsman or a small +settlement dropped down in this not unfruitful waste, and thrice you +come to a hybrid town, with a Spanish _plaza_, and Yankee notions sold +around it. We went the distance leisurely, consuming four days to +Mariposa, for we stopped here and there to sketch, "peep, and botanize"; +besides, we were dragging with us a Jersey wagon, bought second-hand in +Stockton, in which we carried our heavier outfit till we should get our +extra pack-beasts at Mariposa, and to which we had harnessed for their +first time an implacable white mule with an incapable white horse, to +neither of which each other's society or their own new trade was +congenial. + +I shall not linger here as we did there. To an ornithologist the whole +road is interesting,--especially to one making a specialty of owls. The +only game within easy reach is the dove and the California +ground-squirrel,--a big fellow, much like our Northeastern gray, +barring the former's subterranean habits. On the plains threaded by the +road the pasture is good, save in the extremest drought of summer, when +the great herds which usually feed at large on and between the +river-bottoms are driven to the rich green grass in the high valleys of +the Sierra,--or ought to be: many cattle died along the San Joaquin last +summer for want of this care. Occasionally the road winds through the +refreshing shadow of a grove of live-oaks, standing far from any water +on a sandy knoll. But the most magnificent trees of the oak family that +I ever beheld were growing on the banks of the Tuolomne River, where we +forded it at Roberts's Ferry. They were not merely in dimension superior +to the finest white-oaks of the East, but surpassed in beauty every +tradition of their genus. Their vast gnarled branches followed as +exquisite curves as belong to any elm on a New-England meadow, and wept +at the extremities like those of that else matchless tree,--possessing, +moreover, a sumptuous affluence of leafage, an arboreal _embonpoint_, +unknown to their graceful sister of our lowlands. Be sure that we +lingered long among their shadows with book and pencil, and look for a +desirable acquaintance with new Dryads when they grow into the life of +color from our artists' hands. + +At Princeton, a thriving suburb of Mariposa, we completed our cavalcade +of pack-animals, transferred our wagon-load to their backs, (the average +mule-pack weighs from two hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds,) +roped it there in the most approved _muletero_-fashion, and started into +the wilderness. + +Let us call the roll. Beside Bierstadt and the two other gentlemen who +with myself had formed the original overland-party, we numbered two +young artists of great merit now sojourning for a short time in +California, Williams, an old Roman, and Perry, an ancient Düsseldorf +friend,--also a highly scientific metallurgist and physicist generally, +Dr. John Hewston of San Francisco. + +To serve the party we secured a man and a boy. Regarding the former, +perhaps the more truthful assertion would be that he secured us; for, as +will shortly appear, though we bought his services, he sold us in +return. We picked him up in a San-Francisco employment-office, after +looking all over the city for a respectable groom and camp-cook, and +finding that in a scarce-labor country like California even fifty gold +dollars per month, with keep and expenses, were no sufficient bait for +the catch we wanted. He was a meagre, wiry fellow, with sandy hair, +serviceable-looking hands, and no end to self-recommendations; but then +it was impossible to ask after him at his "last place," that having been +General Johnston's camp during Buchanan's forcible-feeble occupation of +Utah. As he said he had been a teamster, and knew that soup-meat went +into cold water, we rushed blindly into an engagement with him, +marriage-service fashion, and took him for better or worse. The thing +which I think finally "fired our Northern hearts" and clinched the +matter was his assertion of nephewship to the Secession Governor Vance, +whose name he bore, combined with unswerving personal loyalty. Lest by +some future D'Israeli this be written down among the traditional +greennesses of learned men, let me say that he was our _pis-aller_,--we +finding ourselves within two hours of the Stockton boat, with nobody to +help pack our mules or care for them and the horses. + +The boy we obtained near Mariposa. He was an independent squire to the +man of whom we got the extra animals, and accompanied them as a sort of +trustee and _prochein amy_ to an orphan family of mules. At fifteen +years and in jackets, he was one of the keenest speculators in fire-arms +I ever saw; could swap horses or play poker with anybody; and, take him +for all in all, in the Eastern States, at least, I shall never look upon +his like again. + +Thus manned, and leading, turn-about, four or five pack-beasts by as +many tow-lines, we struck up into the well-wooded Sierra foot-hills, +commencing our climb at the very outset from Mariposa. The whole +distance to the Valley was fifty miles. For twelve of these we pursued a +road in some degree practicable to carts, and leading to one of those +inevitable steam saw-mills with which a Yankee always cuts his first +swath into the tall grass of Barbarism. Passing the saw-mill in the very +act of astonishing the wilderness with a dinner-whistle, we struck a +trail and fell into single file. Thenceforward our way was almost a +continuous alternation of descent and climb over outlying ridges of the +Sierra. Our raw-recruited mules, and the elementary condition of our +intellects in the science of professional packing, spun out this portion +of our journey to three days,--though allowance is to be made for the +fact of our stopping at noon of the second day and not resuming our +trail till the morning of the third. This interim we spent in visiting +the Big Trees, which are situated four or five miles off the Yo-Semite +track. + +"Clark's," where tourists stop for this purpose, is just half-way +between Mariposa and the great Valley. "Clark" himself is one of the +best-informed men, one of the very best guides, I ever met in the +Californian or any other wilderness. He is a fine-looking, stalwart old +grizzly-hunter and miner of the '49 days, wears a noble full beard hued +like his favorite game, but no head-covering of any kind since he +recovered from a fever which left his head intolerant of even a slouch. +He lives among folk, near Mariposa, in the winter, and in summer +occupies a hermitage built by himself in one of the loveliest lofty +valleys of the Sierra. Here he gives travellers a surprise by the nicest +poached eggs and rashers of bacon, home-made bread and wild-strawberry +sweetmeats, which they will find in the State. + +Before reaching Clark's we had been astonished at the dimensions of the +ordinary pines and firs, our trail for miles at a time running through +forests where trees one hundred and fifty feet high were very common and +trees of two hundred feet by no means rare, while some of the very +largest must have considerably surpassed the latter measurement. + +But these were in their turn dwarfed by the Big Trees proper, as +thoroughly as themselves would have dwarfed a common Green-Mountain +forest. I find no one on this side the continent who believes the +literal truth which travellers tell about these marvellous giants. +People sometimes think they do, but that is only because they fail to +realize the proposition. They have no concrete idea of how the asserted +proportions look. Tell a carpenter, or any other man at home with the +look of dimensions, what you have seen in the Mariposa-County groves, +and his eye grows incredulous in a moment. I freely confess, that, +though I always thought I _had_ believed travellers in their recitals on +this subject, when I saw the trees I found I had bargained to credit no +such story as that, and for a moment felt half-reproachful towards the +friends who had cheated me of my faith under a misapprehension. + +Take the dry statistics of the matter. Out of one hundred and thirty-two +trees which have been measured, not one underruns twenty-eight feet in +circumference; five range between thirty-two and thirty-six feet; +fifty-eight between forty and fifty feet; thirty-four between fifty and +sixty; fourteen between sixty and seventy; thirteen between seventy and +eighty; two between eighty and ninety; two between ninety and one +hundred; two are just one hundred; and one is one hundred and two. This +last, before the storms truncated it, had a height of four hundred feet. +I found a rough ladder laid against its trunk,--for it is +prostrate,--and climbed upon its side by that and steps cut in the bark. +I mounted the swell of the trunk to the butt and there made the +measurement which ascertained its diameter as thirty-four feet,--its +circumference one hundred and two feet _plus_ a fraction. Of course the +thickness of its bark is various, but I cut off some of it to a foot in +depth and there was evidently plenty more below that. + +To make some rough attempt at a conception of what these figures amount +to, suppose the tree fallen at the gable of an ordinary two-story house. +You propose to cross by a plank laid from your roof to the upper side of +the tree. That plank would perceptibly slope _up_ from your roof-peak. +Through another tree, lying prostrate also, and hollow from end to end, +our whole cavalcade charged at the full trot for a distance of one +hundred and fifty feet. The entire length of this tree before truncation +had been about three hundred and fifty feet. In the hollow bases of +trees still standing we easily sheltered ourselves and horses. We tried +throwing to the top of some of them with ludicrous unsuccess, and +finally came to the monarch of them all, a glorious monster not included +in the above table of dimensions, as most of those measured are still +living, and all have the bark upon them still, while _the_ tree is to +some extent barked and charred. When it stood erect in its live +wrappings, it measured forty feet in diameter,--over one hundred and +twenty in circumference! Estimates, grounded on the well-known principle +of yearly cortical increase, indisputably throw back the birth of these +largest giants as far as 1200 B. C. Thus their tender saplings +were running up just as the gates of Troy were tumbling down, and some +of them had fulfilled the lifetime of the late Hartford Charter-Oak when +Solomon called his master-masons to refreshment from the building of the +Temple. We cannot realize time-images as we can those of space by a +reference to dimensions within experience, so that the age of these +marvellous trees still remains to me an incomprehensible fact, though +with my mind's eye I continue to see how mountain-massy they look, and +how dwarfed is the man who leans against them. We lingered among them +half a day, the artists making color-studies of the most picturesque, +the rest of us _izing_ away at something scientific,--Botany, +Entomology, or Statistics. In Geology and Mineralogy there is nothing to +do here or in the Valley,--the formation all being typical Sierra-Nevada +granite, with no specimens to keep or problems to solve. Of course our +artists neither made nor expected to make anything like a realizing +picture of the groves. The marvellous of size does not go into gilt +frames. You paint a Big Tree, and it only looks like a common tree in a +cramped coffin. To be sure, you can put a live figure against the butt +for comparison; but, unless you take a canvas of the size of Haydon's, +your picture is quite as likely to resemble Homunculus against an +average timber-tree as a large man against _Sequoia gigantea_. What our +artists did do was to get a capital transcript of the Big Trees' +color,--a beautifully bright cinnamon-brown, which gives peculiar gayety +to the forest, "making sunshine in the shady place"; also, their typical +figure, which is a very lofty, straight, and branchless trunk, crowned +almost at the summit by a mass of colossal gnarled boughs, slender plumy +fronds, delicate thin leaves, and smooth cones scarce larger than a +plover's egg. Perhaps the best idea of their figure may be obtained by +fancying an Italian stone-pine grown out of recollection. + +Between all the ridges we had hitherto crossed, silvery streams leaped +down intensely cold through the granite chasms,--all of them fed from +the snow-peaks, and charmingly picturesque,--most of them good +trout-brooks, had we possessed time to try a throw; and now, on leaving +Clark's, we crossed the largest of these, a fork of the Merced which +flows through his valley. For twelve miles farther a series of +tremendous climbs tasked us and our beasts to the utmost, but brought us +quite _apropos_ at dinner-time to a lovely green meadow walled in on one +side by near snow-peaks. A small brook running through it speedily +furnished us with frogs enough for an _entrée_. Between two and three in +the afternoon we set out upon the last stage of our pilgrimage. We were +now nearly on a plane with the top of the mighty precipices which wall +the Yo-Semite Valley, and for two hours longer found the trail easy, +save where it crossed the bogs of summit-level springs. + +Immediately after leaving the meadow where we dined we plunged again +into the thick forest, where every now and then some splendid grouse or +the beautiful plume-crowned California quail went whirring away from +before our horses. Here and there a broad grizzly "sign" intersected our +trail. The tall purple deer-weed, a magnificent scarlet flower of name +unknown to me, and another blossom like the laburnum, endlessly varied +in its shades of roseate, blue, or the compromised tints, made the +hill-sides gorgeous beyond human gardening. All these were scentless; +but one other flower, much rarer, made fragrance enough for all. This +was the "Lady Washington," and much resembled a snowy day-lily with an +odor of tuberoses. Our dense leafy surrounding hid from us the fact of +our approach to the Valley's tremendous battlement, till our trail +turned at a sharp angle and we stood on "Inspiration Point." + +That name had appeared pedantic, but we found it only the spontaneous +expression of our own feelings on the spot. We did not so much seem to +be seeing from that crag of vision a new scene on the old familiar globe +as a new heaven and a new earth into which the creative spirit had just +been breathed. I hesitate now, as I did then, at the attempt to give my +vision utterance. Never were words so beggared for an abridged +translation of any Scripture of Nature. + +We stood on the verge of a precipice more than three thousand feet in +height,--a sheer granite wall, whose terrible perpendicular distance +baffled all visual computation. Its foot was hidden among hazy green +_spiculæ_--they might be tender spears of grass catching the slant sun +on upheld aprons of cobweb, or giant pines whose tops that sun first +gilt before he made gold of all the Valley. + +There faced us another wall like our own. How far off it might be we +could only guess. When Nature's lightning hits a man fair and square, it +splits his yardstick. On recovering from this stroke, mathematicians +have ascertained the width of the Valley to vary between half a mile and +five miles. Where we stood the width is about two. + +I said a wall like our own; but as yet we could not know that certainly, +for of our own we saw nothing. Our eyes seemed spell-bound to the +tremendous precipice which stood smiling, not frowning at us, in all the +serene radiance of a snow-white granite Boodh,--broadly burning, rather +than glistening, in the white-hot splendors of the setting sun. From +that sun, clear back to the first _avant-courier_ trace of purple +twilight flushing the eastern sky-rim--yes, as if it were the very +butment of the eternally blue Californian heaven--ran that wall, always +sheer as the plummet, without a visible break through which squirrel +might climb or sparrow fly,--so broad that it was just faint-lined like +the paper on which I write by the loftiest waterfall in the world,--so +lofty that its very breadth could not dwarf it, while the mighty pines +and Douglas firs which grew all along its edge seemed like mere cilia on +the granite lid of the Great Valley's upgazing eye. In the first +astonishment of the view, we took the whole battlement at a sweep, and +seemed to see an unbroken sky-line; but as ecstasy gave way to +examination, we discovered how greatly some portions of the precipice +surpassed our immediate _vis-à-vis_ in height. + +First, a little east of our off-look, there projected boldly into the +Valley from the dominant line of the base a square stupendous tower that +might have been hewn by the diamond adzes of the Genii for a second +Babel-experiment, in expectance of the wrath of Allah. Here and there +the tools had left a faint scratch, only deep as the width of Broadway +and a bagatelle of five hundred feet in length; but that detracted no +more from the unblemished four-square contour of the entire mass than a +pin-mark from the symmetry of a door-post. A city might have been built +on its grand flat top. And, oh! the gorgeous masses of light and shadow +which the falling sun cast on it,--the shadows like great waves, the +lights like their spumy tops and flying mist,--thrown up from the +heaving breast of a golden sea! In California at this season the dome of +heaven is cloudless; but I still dream of what must be done for the +bringing-out of Tu-toch-anula's coronation-day majesties by the broken +winter sky of fleece and fire. The height of his precipice is nearly +four thousand feet perpendicular; his name is supposed to be that of the +Valley's tutelar deity. He also rejoices in a Spanish _alias_,--some +Mission Indian having attempted to translate by "_El Capitan_" the idea +of divine authority implied in Tu-toch-anula. + +Far up the Valley to the eastward there rose far above the rest of the +sky-line, and nearly five thousand feet above the Valley, a hemisphere +of granite, capping the sheer wall, without an apparent tree or shrub to +hide its vast proportions. This we immediately recognized as the famous +To-coy-æ, better known through Watkins's photographs as the Great North +Dome. I am ignorant of the meaning of the former name, but the latter is +certainly appropriate. Between Tu-toch-anula and the Dome, the wall rose +here and there into great pinnacles and towers, but its sky-line is far +more regular than that of the southern side, where we were standing. + +We drew close to the edge of the precipice and looked along over our own +wall up the Valley. Its contour was a rough curve from our stand-point +to a station opposite the North Dome, where the Valley dwindles to its +least width, so that all the intermediate crests and pinnacles which +topped the perpendicular wall stood within our vision like the teeth of +a saw, clear and sharp-cut against the blue sky. There is the same +plumb-line uprightness in these mighty precipices as in those of the +opposite side; but their front is much more broken by bold promontories, +and their tabular tops, instead of lying horizontal, slope up at an +angle of forty-five degrees or more from the spot where we were +standing, and make a succession of oblique prism-sections whose upper +edges are between three and four thousand feet in height. But the glory +of this southern wall comes at the termination of our view opposite the +North Dome. Here the precipice rises to the height of nearly one sheer +mile with a parabolic sky-line, and its posterior surface is as +elegantly rounded as an acorn-cup. From this contour results a naked +semi-cone of polished granite, whose face would cover one of our smaller +Eastern counties, though its exquisite proportions make it seem a thing +to hold in the hollow of the hand. A small pine-covered _glacis_ of +detritus lies at its foot, but every yard above that is bare of all life +save the palæozoic memories which have wrinkled the granite Colossus +from the earliest seethings of the fire-time. I never could call a +Yo-Semite crag _inorganic_, as I used to speak of everything not +strictly animal or vegetal. In the presence of the Great South Dome that +utterance became blasphemous. Not living was it? Who knew but the +_débris_ at its foot was merely the cast-off sweat and _exuviæ_ of a +stone life's great work-day? Who knew but the vital changes which were +going on within its gritty cellular tissue were only imperceptible to us +because silent and vastly secular? What was he who stood up before +Tis-sa-ack and said, "Thou art dead rock!" save a momentary sojourner in +the bosom of a cyclic period whose clock his race had never yet lived +long enough to hear strike? What, too, if Tis-sa-ack himself were but +one of the atoms in a grand organism where we could see only by monads +at a time,--if he and the sun and the sea were but cells or organs of +some one small being in the fenceless _vivarium_ of the Universe? Let +not the ephemeron that lights on a baby's hand generalize too rashly +upon the non-growing of organisms! As we thought on these things, we +bared our heads to the barer forehead of Tis-sa-ack. + +I have spoken of the Great South Dome in the masculine gender, but the +native tradition makes it feminine. Nowhere is there a more beautiful +Indian legend than that of Tis-sa-ack. I will condense it into a few +short sentences from the long report of an old Yo-Semite brave. +Tis-sa-ack was the tutelar goddess of the Valley, as Tu-toch-anula was +its fostering god,--the former a radiant maiden, the latter an +ever-young immortal,-- + + "amorous as the month of May." + +Becoming desperately fascinated with his fair colleague, Tu-toch-anula +spent in her arms all the divine long days of the California summer, +kissing, dallying, and lingering, until the Valley-tribes began to +starve for lack of the crops which his supervision should have ripened, +and a deputation of venerable men came from the dying people to +prostrate themselves at the foot of Tis-sa-ack. Full of anguish at her +nation's woes, she rose from her lover's arms, and cried for succor to +the Great Spirit. Then, with a terrible noise of thunder, the mighty +cone split from heaven to earth,--its frontal half falling down to dam +the snow-waters back into a lake, whence to this day the beautiful +Valley-stream takes one of its loveliest branches,--its other segment +remaining erect till this present, to be the Great South Dome under the +_in-memoriam_ title of Tis-sa-ack. But the divine maiden who died to +save her people appeared on earth no more, and in his agony +Tu-toch-anula carved her image on the face of the mile-high wall, as he +had carved his own on the surface of El Capitan,--where a lively faith +and good glasses may make out the effigies unto this day. + +Sometimes these Indian traditions, being translated according to the +doctrine of correspondences, are of great use to the scientific man,--in +the present instance, as embalming with sweet spices a geological fact, +and the reason of a water-course which else might become obscured by +time. You may lose a rough fact because everybody is handling it and +passing it around with the sense of a liberty to present it next in his +own way; but a fact with its facets cut--otherwise a poem--is +unchangeable, imperditable. Seeing it has been manufactured once, nobody +tries to make it over again. The fact is regarded subject to liberal +translation; poems circulate virgin and _verbatim_. In some future +article I may recur to this topic with reference to the Columbia River, +and the capital light afforded to delvers in its wondrous trap-rock by +the lantern of Indian legend. + +Let us leave the walls of the Valley to speak of the Valley itself, as +seen from this great altitude. There lies a sweep of emerald grass +turned to chrysoprase by the slant-beamed sun,--chrysoprase beautiful +enough to have been the tenth foundation-stone of John's apocalyptic +heaven. Broad and fair just beneath us, it narrows to a little strait of +green between the butments that uplift the giant domes. Far to the +westward, widening more and more, it opens into the bosom of great +mountain-ranges,--into a field of perfect light, misty by its own +excess,--into an unspeakable suffusion of glory created from the +phoenix-pile of the dying sun. Here it lies almost as treeless as some +rich old clover-mead; yonder, its luxuriant smooth grasses give way to a +dense wood of cedars, oaks, and pines. Not a living creature, either man +or beast, breaks the visible silence of this inmost paradise; but for +ourselves, standing at the precipice, petrified, as it were, rock on +rock, the great world might well be running back in stone-and-grassy +dreams to the hour when God had given him as yet but two daughters, the +crag and the clover. We were breaking into the sacred closet of Nature's +self-examination. What if, on considering herself, she should of a +sudden, and us-ward unawares, determine to begin the throes of a new +cycle,--spout up remorseful lavas from her long-hardened conscience, and +hurl us all skyward in a hot concrete with her unbosomed sins? Earth +below was as motionless as the ancient heavens above, save for the +shining serpent of the Merced, which silently to our ears threaded the +middle of the grass, and twinkled his burnished back in the sunset +wherever for a space he gilded out of the shadow of woods. + +To behold this Promised Land proved quite a different thing from +possessing it. Only the _silleros_ of the Andes, our mules, horses, and +selves, can understand how much like a nightmare of endless roof-walking +was the descent down the face of the precipice. A painful and most +circuitous dug-way, where our animals had constantly to stop, lest their +impetus should tumble them headlong, all the way past steeps where the +mere thought of a side-fall was terror, brought us in the twilight to a +green meadow, ringed by woods, on the banks of the Merced. + +Here we pitched our first Yo-Semite camp,--calling it "Camp Rosalie," +after a dear absent friend of mine and Bierstadt's. Removing our packs +and saddles, we dismissed their weary bearers to the deep green meadow, +with no farther qualification to their license than might be found in +ropes seventy feet long fastened to deep-driven pickets. We soon got +together dead wood and pitchy boughs enough to kindle a roaring +fire,--made a kitchen-table by wedging logs between the trunks of a +three-forked tree, and thatching these with smaller sticks,--selected a +cedar-canopied piece of flat sward near the fire for our bed-room, and +as high up as we could reach despoiled our fragrant _baldacchini_ for +the mattresses. I need not praise to any woodsman the quality of a sleep +on evergreen-strewings. + +During our whole stay in the Valley, most of us made it our practice to +rise with the dawn, and, immediately after a bath in the ice-cold +Merced, take a breakfast which might sometimes fail in the +game-department, but was an invariable success, considered as slapjacks +and coffee. Then the loyal nephew of the Secesh governor and the +testamentary guardian of the orphan mules brought our horses up from +picket; then the artists with their camp-stools and color-boxes, the +sages with their goggles, nets, botany-boxes, and bug-holders, the +gentlemen of elegant leisure with their naked eyes and a fish-rod or a +gun, all rode away whither they listed, firing back Parthian shots of +injunction about the dumpling in the grouse-fricassee. + +Sitting in their divine workshop, by a little after sunrise our artists +began labor in that only method which can ever make a true painter or a +living landscape, _color_-studies on the spot; and though I am not here +to speak of their results, I will assert that during their seven weeks' +camp in the Valley they learned more and gained greater material for +future triumphs than they had gotten in all their lives before at the +feet of the greatest masters. Meanwhile the other two vaguely divided +orders of gentlemen and sages were sight-seeing, whipping the covert or +the pool with various success for our next day's dinner, or hunting +specimens of all kinds,--_Agassizing_, so to speak. + +I cannot praise the Merced to that vulgar, yet extensive, class of +sportsmen with whom fishing means nothing but catching fish,--to that +select minority of _illuminati_ who go trouting for intellectual +culture, because they cannot hear Booth or a _Sonata_ of +Beethoven's,--who write rhapsodies of much fire and many pages on the +divine superiority of the curve of an hyperbola over that of a parabola +in the cast of a fly,--who call three little troutlings "_a splendid +day's sport, me boy_!" because those rash and ill-advised infants have +been deceived by a feather-bug which never would have been of any use to +them, instead of a real worm which would. We, who can make prettier +curves and deceive larger game in a dancing-party at home, did not go to +the Yo-Semite for that kind of sport. When I found that the best bait or +fly caught only half a dozen trout in an afternoon,--and those the dull, +black, California kind, with lined sides, but no spots,--I gave over +bothering the unambitious burghers of the flood with invitations to a +rise in life, and took to the meadows with a butterfly-net. + +My experience teaches that no sage (or gentleman) should chase the +butterfly on horseback. You are liable to put your net over your horse's +head instead of the butterfly. The butterfly keeps rather ahead of the +horse. You may throw your horse when you mean to throw the net. The idea +is a romantic one; it carries you back to the days of chivalry, when +court-butterflies _were_ said to have been netted from the saddle,--but +it carries you nowhere else in particular, unless perhaps into a small +branch of the Merced, where you don't want to go. Then, too, if you slip +down and leave your horse standing while you steal on a giant _Papilio_ +which is sucking the deer-weed in _such_ a sweet spot for a cast, your +horse (perhaps he has heard of the French general who said, "Asses and +_savans_ to the centre!") may discover that he also is a sage, and +retire to botanize while you are butterflying,--a contingency which +entails your wading the Merced after him five several times, and finally +going back to camp in wet disgust to procure another horse and a lariat. +An experience faintly hinted at in the above suggestions soon convinced +me that the great arm of the service in butterfly-warfare is infantry. +After I had turned myself into a modest Retiarius, I had no end to +success. Mariposa County is rightly named. The honey of its groves and +meadows is sucked by some of the largest, the most magnificent, and most +widely varied butterflies in the world. + +At noon those of us who came back to camp had a substantial dinner out +of our abundant stores, reinforced occasionally with grouse, quail, or +pigeons, contributed by the sportsmen. The artists mostly dined _à la +fourchette_, in their workshop,--something in a pail being carried out +to them at noon by our Infant Phenomenon. He was a skeleton of thinness, +and an incredibly gaunt mustang was the one which invariably carried the +lunch; so we used to call the boy, when we saw him coming, "Death on the +Pail-Horse." At evening, when the artists returned, half an hour was +passed in a "private view" of their day's studies; then came another +dinner, called a supper; then the tea-kettle was emptied into a pan, and +brush-washing with talk and pipes led the rest of the genial way to +bed-time. + +In his charming "Peculiar," Epes Sargent has given us an episode called +the "Story of Estelle." It is the greatest of compliments to him that I +could get thoroughly interested in her lover, when he bore the name of +one of the most audacious and _picaresque_ mortals I ever knew,--our +hired man, who sold us--our----But hear my episode: it is + + +THE STORY OF VANCE. + +Vance. The cognomen of the loyal nephew with the Secesh uncle. I will be +brief. Our stores began to fail. One morning we equipped Vance with a +horse, a pack-mule to lead behind him, a list of purchases, and eighty +golden dollars, bidding him good-speed on the trail to Mariposa. He was +to return laden with all the modern equivalents for corn, wine, and oil, +on the fifth or sixth day from his departure. Seven days glided by, and +the material for more slapjacks with them. We grew perilously nigh our +bag-bottoms. + +One morning I determined to save the party from starvation, and with a +fresh supply of the currency set out for Mariposa. At Clark's I learned +that our man had camped there about noon on the day he left us, turned +his horse and mule loose, instead of picketing them, and spent the rest +of the sunlight in a _siesta_. When he arose, his animals were +undiscoverable. He accordingly borrowed Clark's only horse to go in +search of them, and the generous hermit had not seen him since. + +Carrying these pleasant bits of intelligence, I resumed my way toward +the settlements. Coming by the steam saw-mill, I recognized Vance's +steed grazing by the way-side, threw my lariat over his head, and led +him in triumph to Mariposa. There I arrived at eight in the evening of +the day I left the Valley,--having performed fifty miles of the hardest +mountain-trail that was ever travelled in a little less than twelve +hours, making allowance for our halt and noon-feed at Clark's. If ever a +California horse was tried, it was mine on that occasion; and he came +into Mariposa on the full gallop, scarcely wet, and not galled or jaded +in the least. + +Here I found our mule, whose obstinate memory had carried him home to +his old stable,--also the remaining events in Vance's brief, but +brilliant career. That ornament of the Utah and Yo-Semite expeditions +had entered Mariposa on Clark's horse,--lost our eighty golden dollars +at a single session of bluff,--departed gayly for Coulterville, where he +sold Clark's horse at auction for forty dollars, including saddle and +bridle, and immediately at another game of bluff lost the entire +purchase-money to the happy buyer, (Clark got his horse again on proving +title,)--and finally vanished for parts unknown, with nothing in his +pocket but buttons, or in his memory but villanies. Nowhere out of +California or Old Spain can there exist such a modern survivor of the +days of Gil Blas! + +Too happy in the recovery of Clark's and our own animals to waste time +in hue-and-cry, I loaded my two reclaimed pack-beasts with all that our +commissariat needed,--nooned at Clark's, on my way back, the third day +after leaving the Valley for Mariposa, and that same night was among my +rejoicing comrades at the head of the Great Yo-Semite. That afternoon +they had come to the bottom of the flour-bag, after living for three +days on unleavened slapjacks without either butter or sirup. I have seen +people who professed to relish the Jewish Passover-bread; but, after +such an experience as our party's, I venture to say they would have +regarded it worthy of a place among the other abolished types of the +Mosaic dispensation. As for me and the mule, we felt our hearts swell +within us as if we had come to raise the siege of Leyden. In that same +enthusiasm shared our artists, _savans_, and gentlemen, embracing the +shaggy neck of the mule as he had been a brother what time they realized +that his panniers were full. Can any one wonder at my early words, "A +slapjack may be the last plank between the woodsman and starvation"? + +Just before I started after supplies our party moved its camp to a +position five miles up the Valley beyond Camp Rosalie, in a beautiful +grove of oaks and cedars, close upon the most sinuous part of the Merced +margin, with rich pasture for our animals immediately across the stream, +and the loftiest cataract in the world roaring over the bleak precipice +opposite. This is the Yo-Semite Fall proper, or, in the Indian, +"Cho-looke." By the most recent geological surveys this fall is credited +with the astounding height of twenty-eight hundred feet. At an early +period the entire mass of water must have plunged that distance without +break. At this day a single ledge of slant projection changes the +headlong flood from cataract to rapids for about four hundred feet; but +the unbroken upper fall is fifteen hundred feet, and the lower thirteen +hundred. In the spring and early summer no more magnificent sight can be +imagined than the tourist obtains from a stand-point right in the midst +of the spray, driven, as by a wind blowing thirty miles an hour, from +the thundering basin of the lower fall. At all seasons Cho-looke is the +grandest mountain-waterfall in the known world. + +While I am speaking of waterfalls, let me not omit "Po-ho-nó," or "The +Bridal Veil," which was passed on the southern side in our way to the +second and about a mile above the first camp. As Tis-sa-ack was a good, +so is Po-ho-nó an evil spirit of the Indian mythology. This tradition is +scientifically accounted for in the fact that many Indians have been +carried over the fall by the tremendous current both of wind and water +forever rushing down a _cañon_ through which the stream breaks from its +feeding-lake twelve or fifteen miles before it falls. The savage lowers +his voice to a whisper and crouches trembling past Po-ho-nó; while the +very utterance of the name is so dreaded by him that the discoverers of +the Valley obtained it with great difficulty. This fall drops on a heap +of giant boulders in one unbroken sheet of a thousand feet +perpendicular, thus being the next in height among all the +Valley-cataracts to the Yo-Semite itself, and having a width of fifty +feet. Its name of "The Bridal Veil" is one of the few successes in +fantastic nomenclature; for, to one viewing it in profile, its snowy +sheet, broken into the filmy silver lace of spray and falling quite free +of the brow of the precipice, might well seem the veil worn by the earth +at her granite wedding,--no commemorator of any fifty-years' bagatelle +like the golden one, but crowning the one-millionth anniversary of her +nuptials. + +On either side of Po-ho-nó the sky-line of the precipice is +magnificently varied. The fall itself cuts a deep gorge into the crown +of the battlement. On the southwest border of the fall stands a nobly +bold, but nameless rock, three thousand feet in height. Near by is +Sentinel Rock, a solitary truncate pinnacle, towering to thirty-three +hundred feet. A little farther are "Eleachas," or "The Three Brothers," +flush with the front-surface of the precipice, but their upper posterior +bounding-planes tilted in three tiers, which reach a height of +thirty-four hundred and fifty feet. + +One of the loveliest places in the Valley is the shore of Lake +Ah-wi-yah,--a crystal pond of several acres in extent, fed by the north +fork of the Valley-stream, and lying right at the mouth of the narrow +strait between the North and South Domes. By this tranquil water we +pitched our third camp, and when the rising sun began to shine through +the mighty cleft before us, the play of color and _chiaroscuro_ on its +rugged walls was something for which an artist apt to oversleep himself +might well have sat up all the night. No such precaution was needed by +ourselves. Painters, sages, and gentlemen at large, all turned out by +dawn; for the studies were grander, the grouse and quail plentier, and +the butterflies more gorgeous than we found in any other portion of the +Valley. After passing the great cleft eastward, I found the river more +enchanting at every step. I was obliged to penetrate in this direction +entirely on foot,--clambering between squared blocks of granite +dislodged from the wall beneath the North Dome, any one of which might +have been excavated into a commodious church, and discovering, for the +pains cost by a reconnoissance of five miles, some of the loveliest +shady stretches of singing water and some of the finest minor waterfalls +in our American scenery. + +Our last camp was pitched among the crags and forests behind the South +Dome,--where the Middle Fork descends through two successive waterfalls, +which, in apparent breadth and volume, far surpass Cho-looke, while the +loftiest is nearly as high as Po-ho-nó. About three miles west of the +Domes, the south wall of the Valley is interrupted by a deep _cañon_ +leading in a nearly southeast direction. Through this _cañon_ comes the +Middle Fork, and along its banks lies our course to the great +"Pi-wi-ack" (senselessly Englished as "Vernal") and the Nevada Falls. +For three miles from our camp opposite the Yo-Semite Fall the _cañon_ is +threaded by a trail practicable for horses. At its termination we +dismounted, sent back our animals, and, strapping their loads upon our +own shoulders, struck nearly eastward by a path only less rugged than +the trackless crags around us. In some places we were compelled to +squeeze sideways through a narrow crevice in the rocks, at imminent +danger to our burden of blankets and camp-kettles; in others we became +quadrupedal, scrambling up acclivities with which the bald main +precipice had made but slight compromise. But for our light marching +order,--our only dress being knee-boots, hunting-shirt, and +trowsers,--it would have been next to impossible to reach our goal at +all. + +But none of us regretted pouring sweat or strained sinews, when, at the +end of our last terrible climb, we stood upon the oozy sod which is +brightened into eternal emerald by the spray of Pi-wi-ack. Far below our +slippery standing steeply sloped the walls of the ragged chasm down +which the snowy river charges roaring after its first headlong plunge; +an eternal rainbow flung its shimmering arch across the mighty caldron +at the base of the fall; and straight before us in one unbroken leap +came down Pi-wi-ack from a granite shelf nearly four hundred feet in +height and sixty feet in perfectly horizontal width. Some enterprising +speculator, who has since ceased to take the original seventy-five +cents' toll, a few years ago built a substantial set of rude ladders +against the perpendicular wall over which Pi-wi-ack rushes. We found it +still standing, and climbed the dizzy height in a shower of spray, so +close to the edge of the fall that we could almost wet our hands in its +rim. Once at the top, we found that Nature had been as accommodating to +the sight-seer as man himself; for the ledge we landed on was a perfect +breastwork, built from the receding precipices on either side of the +_cañon_ to the very crown of the cataract. The weakest nerves need not +have trembled, when once within the parapet, on the smooth, flat +rampart, and looking down into the tremendous boiling chasm whence we +had just climbed. + +Above Pi-wi-ack the river runs for a mile at the bottom of a granite +cradle, sloping upward from it on each side at an angle of about +forty-five degrees, in great tabular masses slippery as ice, without a +crevice in them for thirty yards at a stretch where even the scraggiest +_manzanita_ may catch hold and grow. This tilted formation, broken here +and there by spots of scanty alluvium and stunted pines, continues +upward till it intersects the posterior cone of the South Dome on one +side and a colossal castellated precipice on the other,--creating thus +the very typical landscape of sublime desolation. The shining barrenness +of these rocks, and the utter nakedness of that vast glittering dome +which hollows the heavens beyond them, cannot be conveyed by any +metaphor to a reader knowing only the wood-crowned slopes of the +Alleghany chain. + +Climbing between the stunted pines and giant blocks along the stream's +immediate margin,--getting glimpses here and there of the snowy fretwork +of churned water which laced the higher rocks, and the black whirls +which spun in the deep pits of the roaring bed beneath us,--we came at +last to the base of "Yo-wi-ye," or Nevada Fall. + +This is the most voluminous, and next to Pi-wi-ack, perhaps, the most +beautiful of the Yo-Semite cataracts. Its beauty is partly owing to the +surrounding rugged grandeur which contrasts it, partly to its great +height (eight hundred feet) and surpassing volume, but mainly to its +exquisite and unusual shape. It falls from a precipice the highest +portion of whose face is as smoothly perpendicular as the wall overleapt +by Pi-wi-ack; but invisibly beneath its snowy flood a ledge slants +sideways from the cliff about a hundred feet below the crown of the +fall, and at an angle of about thirty degrees from the plumb-line. Over +this ledge the water is deflected upon one side and spread like a +half-open fan to the width of nearly two hundred feet. + +At the base of Yo-wi-ye we seem standing in a _cul-de-sac_ of Nature's +grandest labyrinth. Look where we will, impregnable battlements hem us +in. We gaze at the sky from the bottom of a savage granite _barathrum_, +whence there is no escape but return through the chinks and over the +crags of an Old-World convulsion. We are at the end of the stupendous +series of Yo-Semite _effects_; eight hundred feet above us, could we +climb there, we should find the silent causes of power. There lie the +broad, still pools that hold the reserved affluence of the snow-peaks; +thence might we see, glittering like diamond lances in the sun, the +eternal snow-peaks themselves. But these would still be as far above us +as we stood below Yo-wi-ye on the lowest valley-bottom whence we came. +Even from Inspiration Point, where our trail first struck the +battlement, we could see far beyond the Valley to the rising sun, +towering mightily above Tis-sa-ack herself, the everlasting +snow-forehead of Castle Rock, his crown's serrated edge cutting the sky +at the topmost height of the Sierra. We had spoken of reaching him,--of +holding converse with the King of all the Giants. This whole weary way +have we toiled since then,--and we know better now. Have we endured all +these pains only to learn still deeper Life's saddest lesson,--"Climb +forever, and there is still an Inaccessible"? + +Wetting our faces with the melted treasure of Nature's topmost +treasure-house, Yo-wi-ye answers us ere we turn back from the +Yo-Semite's last precipice toward the haunts of men:-- + +"Ye who cannot go to the Highest, lo, the Highest comes down to you!" + + + + +HOUSE AND HOME PAPERS. + +BY CHRISTOPHER CROWFIELD. + + +VI. + +"My dear Chris," said my wife, "isn't it time to be writing the next +'House and Home Paper'?" + +I was lying back in my study-chair, with my heels luxuriously propped on +an ottoman, reading for the two-hundredth time Hawthorne's "Mosses from +an Old Manse," or his "Twice-Told Tales," I forget which,--I only know +that these books constitute my cloud-land, where I love to sail away in +dreamy quietude, forgetting the war, the price of coal and flour, the +rates of exchange, and the rise and fall of gold. What do all these +things matter, as seen from those enchanted gardens in Padua where the +weird Rappaccini tends his enchanted plants, and his gorgeous daughter +fills us with the light and magic of her presence, and saddens us with +the shadowy allegoric mystery of her preternatural destiny? But my wife +represents the positive forces of time, place, and number in our family, +and, having also a chronological head, she knows the day of the month, +and therefore gently reminded me that by inevitable dates the time drew +near for preparing my--which is it now, May or June number? + +"Well, my dear, you are right," I said, as by an exertion I came +head-uppermost, and laid down the fascinating volume. "Let me see, what +was I to write about?" + +"Why, you remember you were to answer that letter from the lady who does +her own work." + +"Enough!" said I, seizing the pen with alacrity; "you have hit the exact +phrase:-- + +"'The _lady_ who _does her own work_.'" + + * * * * * + +America is the only country where such a title is possible,--the only +country where there is a class of women who may be described as _ladies_ +who do their own work. By a lady we mean a woman of education, +cultivation, and refinement, of liberal tastes and ideas, who, without +any very material additions or changes, would be recognized as a lady in +any circle of the Old World or the New. + +What I have said is, that the existence of such a class is a fact +peculiar to American society, a clear, plain result of the new +principles involved in the doctrine of universal equality. + +When the colonists first came to this country, of however mixed +ingredients their ranks might have been composed, and however imbued +with the spirit of feudal and aristocratic ideas, the discipline of the +wilderness soon brought them to a democratic level; the gentleman felled +the wood for his log-cabin side by side with the ploughman, and thews +and sinews rose in the market. "A man was deemed honorable in proportion +as he lifted his hand upon the high trees of the forest." So in the +interior domestic circle. Mistress and maid, living in a log-cabin +together, became companions, and sometimes the maid, as the more +accomplished and stronger, took precedence of the mistress. It became +natural and unavoidable that children should begin to work as early as +they were capable of it. The result was a generation of intelligent +people brought up to labor from necessity, but turning on the problem of +labor the acuteness of a disciplined brain. The mistress, outdone in +sinews and muscles by her maid, kept her superiority by skill and +contrivance. If she could not lift a pail of water, she could invent +methods which made lifting the pail unnecessary,--if she could not take +a hundred steps without weariness, she could make twenty answer the +purpose of a hundred. + +Slavery, it is true, was to some extent introduced into New England, but +it never suited the genius of the people, never struck deep root, or +spread so as to choke the good seed of self-helpfulness. Many were +opposed to it from conscientious principle,--many from far-sighted +thrift, and from a love of thoroughness and well-doing which despised +the rude, unskilled work of barbarians. People, having once felt the +thorough neatness and beauty of execution which came of free, educated, +and thoughtful labor, could not tolerate the clumsiness of slavery. Thus +it came to pass that for many years the rural population of New England, +as a general rule, did their own work, both out doors and in. If there +were a black man or black woman or bound girl, they were emphatically +only the _helps_, following humbly the steps of master and mistress, and +used by them as instruments of lightening certain portions of their +toil. The master and mistress with their children were the head workers. + +Great merriment has been excited in the Old Country, because years ago +the first English travellers found that the class of persons by them +denominated servants were in America denominated _help_ or helpers. But +the term was the very best exponent of the state of society. There were +few servants, in the European sense of the word; there was a society of +educated workers, where all were practically equal, and where, if there +was a deficiency in one family and an excess in another, a _helper_, not +a servant, was hired. Mrs. Browne, who has six sons and no daughters, +enters into agreement with Mrs. Jones, who has six daughters and no +sons. She borrows a daughter, and pays her good wages to help in her +domestic toil, and sends a son to help the labors of Mr. Jones. These +two young people go into the families in which they are to be employed +in all respects as equals and companions, and so the work of the +community is equalized. Hence arose, and for many years continued, a +state of society more nearly solving than any other ever did the problem +of combining the highest culture of the mind with the highest culture of +the muscles and the physical faculties. + +Then were to be seen families of daughters, handsome, strong females, +rising each day to their in-door work with cheerful alertness,--one to +sweep the room, another to make the fire, while a third prepared the +breakfast for the father and brothers who were going out to manly labor; +and they chatted meanwhile of books, studies, embroidery, discussed the +last new poem, or some historical topic started by graver reading, or +perhaps a rural ball that was to come off the next week. They spun with +the book tied to the distaff; they wove; they did all manner of fine +needle-work; they made lace, painted flowers, and, in short, in the +boundless consciousness of activity, invention, and perfect health, set +themselves to any work they had ever read or thought of. A bride in +those days was married with sheets and table-cloths of her own weaving, +with counterpanes and toilet-covers wrought in divers embroidery by her +own and her sisters' hands. The amount of fancy-work done in our days by +girls who have nothing else to do will not equal what was done by these, +who performed besides, among them, the whole work of the family. + +For many years these habits of life characterized the majority of our +rural towns. They still exist among a class respectable in numbers and +position, though perhaps not as happy in perfect self-satisfaction and a +conviction of the dignity and desirableness of its lot as in former +days. Human nature is above all things--lazy. Every one confesses in the +abstract that exertion which brings out all the powers of body and mind +is the best thing for us all; but practically most people do all they +can to get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than +circumstances drive him to do. Even I would not write this article, were +not the publication-day hard on my heels. I should read Hawthorne and +Emerson and Holmes, and dream in my arm-chair, and project in the clouds +those lovely unwritten stories that curl and veer and change like +mist-wreaths in the sun. So, also, however dignified, however +invigorating, however really desirable are habits of life involving +daily physical toil, there is a constant evil demon at every one's +elbow, seducing him to evade it, or to bear its weight with sullen, +discontented murmurs. + +I will venture to say that there are at least, to speak very moderately, +a hundred houses where these humble lines will be read and discussed, +where there are no servants except the ladies of the household. I will +venture to say, also, that these households, many of them, are not +inferior in the air of cultivation and refined elegance to many which +are conducted by the ministration of domestics. I will venture to +assert, furthermore, that these same ladies who live thus find quite as +much time for reading, letter-writing, drawing, embroidery, and +fancy-work, as the women of families otherwise arranged. I am quite +certain that they would be found on an average to be in the enjoyment of +better health, and more of that sense of capability and vitality which +gives one confidence in one's ability to look into life and meet it with +cheerful courage, than three-quarters of the women who keep +servants,--and that on the whole their domestic establishment is +regulated more exactly to their mind, their food prepared and served +more to their taste. And yet, with all this, I will _not_ venture to +assert that they are satisfied with this way of living, and that they +would not change it forthwith, if they could. They have a secret feeling +all the while that they are being abused, that they are working harder +than they ought to, and that women who live in their houses like +boarders, who have only to speak and it is done, are the truly enviable +ones. One after another of their associates, as opportunity offers and +means increase, desert the ranks, and commit their domestic affairs to +the hands of hired servants. Self-respect takes the alarm. Is it +altogether genteel to live as we do? To be sure, we are accustomed to +it; we have it all systematized and arranged; the work of our own hands +suits us better than any we can hire; in fact, when we do hire, we are +discontented and uncomfortable,--for who will do for us what we will do +for ourselves? But when we have company! there's the rub, to get out all +our best things and put them back,--to cook the meals and wash the +dishes ingloriously,--and to make all appear as if we didn't do it, and +had servants like other people. + +There, after all, is the rub. A want of hardy self-belief and +self-respect,--an unwillingness to face with dignity the actual facts +and necessities of our situation in life,--this, after all, is the worst +and most dangerous feature of the case. It is the same sort of pride +which makes Smilax think he must hire a waiter in white gloves, and get +up a circuitous dinner-party on English principles, to entertain a +friend from England. Because the friend in England lives in such and +such a style, he must make believe for a day that he lives so too, when +in fact it is a whirlwind in his domestic establishment equal to a +removal or a fire, and threatens the total extinction of Mrs. Smilax. +Now there are two principles of hospitality that people are very apt to +overlook. One is, that their guests like to be made at home, and treated +with confidence; and another is, that people are always interested in +the details of a way of life that is new to them. The Englishman comes +to America as weary of his old, easy, family-coach life as you can be of +yours; he wants to see something new under the sun,--something American; +and forthwith we all bestir ourselves to give him something as near as +we can fancy exactly like what he is already tired of. So city-people +come to the country, not to sit in the best parlor, and to see the +nearest imitation of city-life, but to lie on the hay-mow, to swing in +the barn, to form intimacy with the pigs, chickens, and ducks, and to +eat baked potatoes exactly on the critical moment when they are done, +from the oven of the cooking-stove,--and we remark, _en passant_, that +nobody has ever truly eaten a baked potato, unless he has seized it at +that precise and fortunate moment. + +I fancy you now, my friends, whom I have in my eye. You are three happy +women together. You are all so well that you know not how it feels to be +sick. You are used to early rising, and would not lie in bed, if you +could. Long years of practice have made you familiar with the shortest, +neatest, most expeditious method of doing every household office, so +that really for the greater part of the time in your house there seems +to a looker-on to be nothing to do. You rise in the morning and despatch +your husband, father, and brothers to the farm or wood-lot; you go +sociably about chatting with each other, while you skim the milk, make +the butter, turn the cheeses. The forenoon is long; it's ten to one that +all the so-called morning work is over, and you have leisure for an +hour's sewing or reading before it is time to start the +dinner-preparations. By two o'clock your house-work is done, and you +have the long afternoon for books, needle-work, or drawing,--for perhaps +there is among you one with a gift at her pencil. Perhaps one of you +reads aloud while the others sew, and you manage in that way to keep up +with a great deal of reading. I see on your book-shelves Prescott, +Macaulay, Irving, besides the lighter fry of poems and novels, and, if I +mistake not, the friendly covers of the "Atlantic." When you have +company, you invite Mrs. Smith or Brown or Jones to tea; you have no +trouble; they come early, with their knitting or sewing; your particular +crony sits with you by your polished stove while you watch the baking of +those light biscuits and tea-rusks for which you are so famous, and Mrs. +Somebody-else chats with your sister, who is spreading the table with +your best china in the best room. When tea is over, there is plenty of +volunteering to help you wash your pretty India teacups, and get them +back into the cupboard. There is no special fatigue or exertion in all +this, though you have taken down the best things and put them back, +because you have done all without anxiety or effort, among those who +would do precisely the same, if you were their visitors. + +But now comes down pretty Mrs. Simmons and her pretty daughter to spend +a week with you, and forthwith you are troubled. Your youngest, Fanny, +visited them in New York last fall, and tells you of their cook and +chambermaid, and the servant in white gloves that waits on table. You +say in your soul, "What shall we do? they never can be contented to live +as we do; how shall we manage?" And now you long for servants. + +This is the very time that you should know that Mrs. Simmons is tired to +death of her fine establishment, and weighed down with the task of +keeping the peace among her servants. She is a quiet soul, dearly loving +her ease, and hating strife; and yet last week she had five quarrels to +settle between her invaluable cook and the other members of her staff, +because invaluable cook, on the strength of knowing how to get up +state-dinners and to manage all sorts of mysteries which her mistress +knows nothing about, asserts the usual right of spoiled favorites to +insult all her neighbors with impunity, and rule with a rod of iron over +the whole house. Anything that is not in the least like her own home and +ways of living will be a blessed relief and change to Mrs. Simmons. Your +clean, quiet house, your delicate cookery, your cheerful morning tasks, +if you will let her follow you about, and sit and talk with you while +you are at your work, will all seem a pleasant contrast to her own life. +Of course, if it came to the case of offering to change lots in life, +she would not do it; but very likely she _thinks_ she would, and sighs +over and pities herself, and thinks sentimentally how fortunate you are, +how snugly and securely you live, and wishes she were as untrammelled +and independent as you. And she is more than half right; for, with her +helpless habits, her utter ignorance of the simplest facts concerning +the reciprocal relations of milk, eggs, butter, saleratus, soda, and +yeast, she is completely the victim and slave of the person she pretends +to rule. + +Only imagine some of the frequent scenes and rehearsals in her family. +After many trials, she at last engages a seamstress who promises to +prove a perfect treasure,--neat, dapper, nimble, skilful, and spirited. +The very soul of Mrs. Simmons rejoices in heaven. Illusive bliss! The +new-comer proves to be no favorite with Madam Cook, and the domestic +fates evolve the catastrophe, as follows. First, low murmur of distant +thunder in the kitchen; then a day or two of sulky silence, in which the +atmosphere seems heavy with an approaching storm. At last comes the +climax. The parlor-door flies open during breakfast. Enter seamstress, +in tears, followed by Mrs. Cook with a face swollen and red with wrath, +who tersely introduces the subject-matter of the drama in a voice +trembling with rage. + +"Would you be plased, Ma'am, to suit yersilf with another cook? Me week +will be up next Tuesday, and I want to be going." + +"Why, Bridget, what's the matter?" + +"Matter enough, Ma'am! I niver could live with them Cork girls in a +house, nor I won't; them as likes the Cork girls is welcome for all me; +but it's not for the likes of me to live with them, and she been in the +kitchen a-upsettin' of me gravies with her flat-irons and things." + +Here bursts in the seamstress with a whirlwind of denial, and the +altercation wages fast and furious, and poor, little, delicate Mrs. +Simmons stands like a kitten in a thunder-storm in the midst of a +regular Irish row. + +Cook, of course, is sure of her victory. She knows that a great dinner +is to come off Wednesday, and that her mistress has not the smallest +idea how to manage it, and that, therefore, whatever happens, she must +be conciliated. + +Swelling with secret indignation at the tyrant, poor Mrs. Simmons +dismisses her seamstress with longing looks. She suited her mistress +exactly, but she didn't suit cook! + +Now, if Mrs. Simmons had been brought up in early life with the +experience that _you_ have, she would be mistress in her own house. She +would quietly say to Madam Cook, "If my family-arrangements do not suit +you, you can leave. I can see to the dinner myself." And she _could_ do +it. Her well-trained muscles would not break down under a little extra +work; her skill, adroitness, and perfect familiarity with everything +that is to be done would enable her at once to make cooks of any bright +girls of good capacity who might still be in her establishment; and, +above all, she would feel herself mistress in her own house. This is +what would come of an experience in doing her own work as you do. She +who can at once put her own trained hand to the machine in any spot +where a hand is needed never comes to be the slave of a coarse, vulgar +Irish-woman. + +So, also, in forming a judgment of what is to be expected of servants in +a given time, and what ought to be expected of a given amount of +provisions, poor Mrs. Simmons is absolutely at sea. If even for one six +months in her life she had been a practical cook, and had really had the +charge of the larder, she would not now be haunted, as she constantly +is, by an indefinite apprehension of an immense wastefulness, perhaps of +the disappearance of provisions through secret channels of relationship +and favoritism. She certainly could not be made to believe in the +absolute necessity of so many pounds of sugar, quarts of milk, and +dozens of eggs, not to mention spices and wine, as are daily required +for the accomplishment of Madam Cook's purposes. But though now she does +suspect and apprehend, she cannot speak with certainty. She cannot say, +"_I_ have made these things. I know exactly what they require. I have +done this and that myself, and know it can be done, and done well, in a +certain time." It is said that women who have been accustomed to doing +their own work become hard mistresses. They are certainly more sure of +the ground they stand on,--they are less open to imposition,--they can +speak and act in their own houses more as those "having authority," and +therefore are less afraid to exact what is justly their due, and less +willing to endure impertinence and unfaithfulness. Their general error +lies in expecting that any servant ever will do as well for them as they +will do for themselves, and that an untrained, undisciplined human being +ever _can_ do house-work, or any other work, with the neatness and +perfection that a person of trained intelligence can. It has been +remarked in our armies that the men of cultivation, though bred in +delicate and refined spheres, can bear up under the hardships of +camp-life better and longer than rough laborers. The reason is, that an +educated mind knows how to use and save its body, to work it and spare +it, as an uneducated mind cannot; and so the college-bred youth brings +himself safely through fatigues which kill the unreflective laborer. +Cultivated, intelligent women, who are brought up to do the work of +their own families, are labor-saving institutions. They make the head +save the wear of the muscles. By forethought, contrivance, system, and +arrangement, they lessen the amount to be done, and do it with less +expense of time and strength than others. The old New-England motto, +_Get your work done up in the forenoon_, applied to an amount of work +which would keep a common Irish servant toiling from daylight to sunset. + +A lady living in one of our obscure New-England towns, where there were +no servants to be hired, at last by sending to a distant city succeeded +in procuring a raw Irish maid-of-all-work, a creature of immense bone +and muscle, but of heavy, unawakened brain. In one fortnight she +established such a reign of Chaos and old Night in the kitchen and +through the house, that her mistress, a delicate woman, incumbered with +the care of young children, began seriously to think that she made more +work each day than she performed, and dismissed her. What was now to be +done? Fortunately, the daughter of a neighboring farmer was going to be +married in six months, and wanted a little ready money for her +_trousseau_. The lady was informed that Miss So-and-so would come to +her, not as a servant, but as hired "help." She was fain to accept any +help with gladness. Forthwith came into the family-circle a tall, +well-dressed young person, grave, unobtrusive, self-respecting, yet not +in the least presuming, who sat at the family-table and observed all its +decorums with the modest self-possession of a lady. The new-comer took a +survey of the labors of a family of ten members, including four or five +young children, and, looking, seemed at once to throw them into system, +matured her plans, arranged her hours of washing, ironing, baking, +cleaning, rose early, moved deftly, and in a single day the slatternly +and littered kitchen assumed that neat, orderly appearance that so often +strikes one in New-England farm-houses. The work seemed to be all gone. +Everything was nicely washed, brightened, put in place, and stayed in +place; the floors, when cleaned, remained clean; the work was always +done, and not doing; and every afternoon the young lady sat neatly +dressed in her own apartment, either quietly writing letters to her +betrothed, or sewing on her bridal outfit. Such is the result of +employing those who have been brought up to do their own work. That +tall, fine-looking girl, for aught we know, may yet be mistress of a +fine house on Fifth Avenue; and if she is, she will, we fear, prove +rather an exacting mistress to Irish Biddy and Bridget; but _she_ will +never be threatened by her cook and chambermaid, after the first one or +two have tried the experiment. + + * * * * * + +Having written thus far on my article, I laid it aside till evening, +when, as usual, I was saluted by the inquiry, "Has papa been writing +anything to-day?" and then followed loud petitions to hear it; and so I +read as far, reader, as you have. + +"Well, papa," said Jennie, "what are you meaning to make out there? Do +you really think it would be best for us all to try to go back to that +old style of living you describe? After all, you have shown only the +dark side of an establishment with servants, and the bright side of the +other way of living. Mamma does not have such trouble with her servants; +matters have always gone smoothly in our family; and if we are not such +wonderful girls as those you describe, yet we may make pretty good +housekeepers on the modern system, after all." + +"You don't know all the troubles your mamma has had in your day," said +my wife. "I have often, in the course of my family-history, seen the day +when I have heartily wished for the strength and ability to manage my +household matters as my grandmother of notable memory managed hers. But +I fear that those remarkable women of the olden times are like the +ancient painted glass,--the art of making them is lost; my mother was +less than her mother, and I am less than my mother." + +"And Marianne and I come out entirely at the little end of the horn," +said Jennie, laughing; "yet I wash the breakfast-cups and dust the +parlors, and have always fancied myself a notable housekeeper." + +"It is just as I told you," I said. "Human nature is always the same. +Nobody ever is or does more than circumstances force him to be and do. +Those remarkable women of old were made by circumstances. There were, +comparatively speaking, no servants to be had, and so children were +trained to habits of industry and mechanical adroitness from the cradle, +and every household process was reduced to the very minimum of labor. +Every step required in a process was counted, every movement calculated; +and she who took ten steps, when one would do, lost her reputation for +'faculty.' Certainly such an early drill was of use in developing the +health and the bodily powers, as well as in giving precision to the +practical mental faculties. All household economies were arranged with +equal niceness in those thoughtful minds. A trained housekeeper knew +just how many sticks of hickory of a certain size were required to heat +her oven, and how many of each different kind of wood. She knew by a +sort of intuition just what kinds of food would yield the most palatable +nutriment with the least outlay of accessories in cooking. She knew to a +minute the time when each article must go into and be withdrawn from her +oven; and if she could only lie in her chamber and direct, she could +guide an intelligent child through the processes with mathematical +certainty. It is impossible, however, that anything but early training +and long experience can produce these results, and it is earnestly to be +wished that the grandmothers of New England had only written down their +experiences for our children; they would have been a mine of maxims and +traditions, better than any other traditions of the elders which we know +of." + +"One thing I know," said Marianne,--"and that is, I wish I had been +brought up so, and knew all that I should, and had all the strength and +adroitness that those women had. I should not dread to begin +housekeeping, as I now do. I should feel myself independent. I should +feel that I knew how to direct my servants, and what it was reasonable +and proper to expect of them; and then, as you say, I shouldn't be +dependent on all their whims and caprices of temper. I dread those +household storms, of all things." + +Silently pondering these anxieties of the young expectant housekeeper, I +resumed my pen, and concluded my paper as follows. + + * * * * * + +In this country, our democratic institutions have removed the +superincumbent pressure which in the Old World confines the servants to +a regular orbit. They come here feeling that this is somehow a land of +liberty, and with very dim and confused notions of what liberty is. They +are for the most part the raw, untrained Irish peasantry, and the wonder +is, that, with all the unreasoning heats and prejudices of the Celtic +blood, all the necessary ignorance and rawness, there should be the +measure of comfort and success there is in our domestic arrangements. +But, so long as things are so, there will be constant changes and +interruptions in every domestic establishment, and constantly recurring +interregnums when the mistress must put her own hand to the work, +whether the hand be a trained or an untrained one. As matters now are, +the young housekeeper takes life at the hardest. She has very little +strength,--no experience to teach her how to save her strength. She +knows nothing experimentally of the simplest processes necessary to keep +her family comfortably fed and clothed; and she has a way of looking at +all these things which makes them particularly hard and distasteful to +her. She does not escape being obliged to do house-work at intervals, +but she does it in a weak, blundering, confused way, that makes it twice +as hard and disagreeable as it need be. + +Now what I have to say is, that, if every young woman learned to do +house-work and cultivated her practical faculties in early life, she +would, in the first place, be much more likely to keep her servants, +and, in the second place, if she lost them temporarily, would avoid all +that wear and tear of the nervous system which comes from constant +ill-success in those departments on which family health and temper +mainly depend. This is one of the peculiarities of our American life +which require a peculiar training. Why not face it sensibly? + +The second thing I have to say is, that our land is now full of +motorpathic institutions to which women are sent at great expense to +have hired operators stretch and exercise their inactive muscles. They +lie for hours to have their feet twigged, their arms flexed, and all the +different muscles of the body worked for them, because they are so +flaccid and torpid that the powers of life do not go on. Would it not be +quite as cheerful and less expensive a process, if young girls from +early life developed the muscles in sweeping, dusting, ironing, rubbing +furniture, and all the multiplied domestic processes which our +grandmothers knew of? A woman who did all these, and diversified the +intervals with spinning on the great and little wheel, never came to +need the gymnastics of Dio Lewis or of the Swedish motorpathist, which +really are a necessity now. Does it not seem poor economy to pay +servants for letting our muscles grow feeble, and then to pay operators +to exercise them for us? I will venture to say that our grandmothers in +a week went over every movement that any gymnast has invented, and went +over them to some productive purpose too. + +Lastly, my paper will not have been in vain, if those ladies who have +learned and practise the invaluable accomplishment of doing their own +work will know their own happiness and dignity, and properly value their +great acquisition, even though it may have been forced upon them by +circumstances. + + + + +SHAKSPEARE. + +APRIL 23, 1864. + + + "Who claims our Shakspeare from that realm unknown, + Beyond the storm-vexed islands of the deep, + Where Genoa's deckless caravels were blown? + Her twofold Saint's-day let our England keep; + Shall warring aliens share her holy task?" + The Old-World echoes ask. + + O land of Shakspeare! ours with all thy past, + Till these last years that make the sea so wide, + Think not the jar of battle's trumpet-blast + Has dulled our aching sense to joyous pride + In every noble word thy sons bequeathed + The air our fathers breathed! + + War-wasted, haggard, panting from the strife, + We turn to other days and far-off lands, + Live o'er in dreams the Poet's faded life, + Come with fresh lilies in our fevered hands + To wreathe his bust, and scatter purple flowers,-- + Not his the need, but ours! + + We call those poets who are first to mark + Through earth's dull mist the coming of the dawn,-- + Who see in twilight's gloom the first pale spark, + While others only note that day is gone; + For him the Lord of light the curtain rent + That veils the firmament. + + The greatest for its greatness is half known, + Stretching beyond our narrow quadrant-lines,-- + As in that world of Nature all outgrown + Where Calaveras lifts his awful pines, + And cast from Mariposa's mountain-wall + Nevada's cataracts fall. + + Yet heaven's remotest orb is partly ours, + Throbbing its radiance like a beating heart; + In the wide compass of angelic powers + The instinct of the blindworm has its part; + So in God's kingliest creature we behold + The flower our buds infold. + + With no vain praise we mock the stone-carved name + Stamped once on dust that moved with pulse and breath, + As thinking to enlarge that amplest fame + Whose undimmed glories gild the night of death: + We praise not star or sun; in these we see + Thee, Father, only Thee! + + Thy gifts are beauty, wisdom, power, and love: + We read, we reverence on this human soul,-- + Earth's clearest mirror of the light above,-- + Plain as the record on Thy prophet's scroll, + When o'er his page the effluent splendors poured, + Thine own, "Thus saith the Lord!" + + This player was a prophet from on high, + Thine own elected. Statesman, poet, sage, + For him Thy sovereign pleasure passed them by,-- + Sidney's fair youth, and Raleigh's ripened age, + Spenser's chaste soul, and his imperial mind + Who taught and shamed mankind. + + Therefore we bid our hearts' _Te Deum_ rise, + Nor fear to make Thy worship less divine, + And hear the shouted choral shake the skies, + Counting all glory, power, and wisdom Thine,-- + For Thy great gift Thy greater name adore, + And praise Thee evermore! + + In this dread hour of Nature's utmost need, + Thanks for these unstained drops of freshening dew! + Oh, while our martyrs fall, our heroes bleed, + Keep us to every sweet remembrance true, + Till from this blood-red sunset springs new-born + Our Nation's second morn! + + + + +HOW TO USE VICTORY. + + +The policy of the nation, since the war began, has been eminently the +Anglo-Saxon policy. That is to say, we have not adapted our actions to +any preconceived theory, nor to any central idea. From the President +downward, every one has done as well as he could in every single day, +doubtful, and perhaps indifferent, as to what he should do the next day. +This is the method dear to the Anglo-Saxon mind. The English writers +acknowledge this; they call it the "practical system," and make an +especial boast that it is the method of their theology, their +philosophy, their physical science, their manufactures, and their trade. +In the language of philosophy, it directs us "to do the duty that comes +next us"; in a figure drawn from the card-table, it bids us "follow our +hand." The only branch of the Keltic race which adopts it expresses it +in the warlike direction, "When you see a head, hit it." + +We have no objection to make to this so-called practical system in the +present case, if it only be broadly and generously adopted. If it reduce +us to a war of posts, to hand-to-mouth finance, and to that wretched +bureau-administration which thinks the day's work is done when the day's +letters have been opened, docketed, and answered, it becomes, it is +true, a very unpractical system, and soon reduces a great state to be a +very little one. But if the men who direct any country will, in good +faith, enlarge their view every day, from their impressions of yesterday +to the new realities of to-day,--if they will rise at once to the new +demands of to-day, and meet those demands under the new light of +to-day,--all the better is it, undoubtedly, if they are not hampered by +traditionary theories, if they are even indifferent as to the +consistency of their record, and are, thus, as able as they are willing +to work out God's present will with all their power. For it must be that +the present light of noonday will guide us better at noonday than any +prophecies which we could make at midnight or at dawn. + +The country, at this moment, demands this broad and generous use of its +great present advantages. In three years of sacrifice we have won +extraordinary victories. We have driven back the beach-line of rebellion +so that its territory is now two islands, both together of not half the +size of the continent which it boasted when it began. We have seen such +demonstrations of loyalty and the love of liberty that we dare say that +this is to be one free nation, as we never dared say it before the war +began. We are on the edge, as we firmly believe, of yet greater +victories, both in the field and in the conscience of the nation. The +especial demand, then, made on our statesmen, and on that intelligent +people which, as it appears, leads the statesmen, instead of being led +by them, is, "How shall we use our victories?" We have no longer the +right to say that the difficult questions will settle themselves. We +must not say that Providence will take care of them. We must not say +that we are trying experiments. The time for all this has gone by. We +have won victories. We are going to win more. We must show we know how +to use them. + +As our armies advance, for instance, very considerable regions of +territory come, for the time, under the military government of the +United States. If we painted a map of the country, giving to the Loyal +States each its individual chosen color, and to the Rebel States their +favorite Red or Black, we should find that the latter were surrounded by +a strip of that circumambient and eternal Blue which indicates the love +and the strength of the National Government. The strip is here broad, +and there narrow. It is broad in Tennessee, Arkansas, and Louisiana. It +stretches up in a narrow line along the Sea Islands and the Atlantic +coast. What do we mean to do with this strip, while it is in the special +charge of the nation? Do we mean to leave it to the chapter of +accidents, as we have done? A few charitable organizations have kept the +Sea Islands along, so that they are a range of flourishing plantations, +as they used to be. A masterly inactivity, on the other hand, leaves the +northern counties of Virginia, this summer, within the very sight of the +Capitol, to be the desert and disgrace which they were when they were +the scenes of actual war. A handful of banditti rides through them when +it chooses, and even insults the communications of our largest army. The +people of that State are permitted to point at this desolation, and to +say that such are the consequences of Federal victories. For another +instance, take the "Four-Million question." These four million negroes, +from whose position the war has sprung, are now almost all set free, in +law. A very large number of them--possibly a quarter part of them--are +free in fact. One hundred and thirty thousand of them are in the +national army. With regard to these men the question is not, "What are +you going to do with them when the war is done?" but, "What will you do +with them to-day and to-morrow?" Your duty is to use victory in the +moment of victory. You are not to wait for its last ramification before +you lead in peace and plenty, which ought to follow close in its first +footsteps. + +To an observing and sensitive nation it seems as if all these questions, +and many others like them, were not yet fully regarded. Yet they are now +the questions of the hour, because they are a part of the great central +question, "How will you break down the armed power of the Rebel States?" +To maintain the conquered belt between us and our "wayward sisters" as a +land of plenty, and not as a desert,--to establish on system the blacks +whose masters desert them, or who take refuge within our lines,--and +also to maintain in that border-strip a resident peasantry, armed and +loyal,--these are not matters of sentiment, which may be postponed to a +more convenient season, but they are essential to the stiff, steady, and +successful prosecution of our campaigns. It is not, therefore, simply +for charity Boards of Education to discuss such subjects. It is for the +Government to determine its policy, and for the people, who make that +Government, to compel it so to determine. The Government may not shake +off questions of confiscated lands, pay of negro troops, superintendence +of fugitives, and the like, as if they were the unimportant details of a +halcyon future. Because this is the moment of impending victory, because +that victory should be used on the instant, the Government is bound to +attend to such provisions now. It is said, that, when General McClellan +landed below Yorktown, now two years ago, the Washington Post-Office had +made the complete arrangements for resuming the mail-service to +Richmond. Undoubtedly the Post-Office Department was right in such +foresight. At the present moment, it is equally right for the Government +to be prepared for the immediate use of the victories for which, as we +write, we are all hoping. + +The experiments which we have had to try, in the care and treatment of +liberated blacks, have been tried under very different conditions. When +the masters on the Sea Islands escaped from their slaves, leaving but +one white man behind them, in the midst of fifteen thousand negroes, +those negroes were, in general, in their old familiar homes. They had, +indeed, trusted themselves to the tender mercies of the "Yankees" +because they would not abandon home. The islands on which they lived +were easily protected, and, thanks to the generous foresight of those +who early had the charge of them, a body of humane and intelligent +superintendents soon appeared, to watch over all their interests. In the +District of Columbia, on the other hand, the blacks whom the war first +liberated had themselves fled from their masters. They found themselves +in cities where every condition of life was different from their old +home. It was hardly to be expected that in one of these cases the +results should be as cheerful or as favorable as in the other. Nor was +it to be supposed that the policy to be pursued, in two such cases, +should be in outward form the same. + +But the country has, on the whole, in the various different conditions +of these questions, had the advantage of great administrative ability. +General Butler, General Banks, and General Saxton are three men who may +well be satisfied with their military record, if it shall bear the test +of time as well as their administrative successes in this department bid +fair to do. We can be reconciled, in a measure, to gross failure and +want of system in other places, when we observe the successes which have +been wrought out for the blacks, in different ways, under the policy of +these three statesmen. For we believe that in that policy the principles +are to be found by which the Government ought at once to direct all its +policy in the use of its victories. We believe those principles are most +adequately stated in General Butler's General Order No. 46, issued at +Fort Monroe on the fifth of December last. For General Banks has had his +hands tied, from the beginning, by the unfortunate exemption from the +Emancipation Proclamation of the first two districts in Louisiana. +Considering the difficulties by which he was thus entangled, we have +never seen but he used to the best his opportunities. General Saxton's +island-district has been so small, and in a measure so peculiar, that it +may be urged that the result learned there would not be applicable on +the mainland, on a large scale. But General Butler has had all the +negroes of the sea-board of Virginia and North Carolina to look after. +He has given us a census of them,--and we have already official returns +of their _status_. There seems no reason why what has been done there +may not be done anywhere. + +In General Butler's department, there were, in the beginning of April, +sixty-eight thousand eight hundred and forty-seven negroes. Of these, +eight thousand three hundred and forty-four were soldiers, who had +voluntarily enlisted into the service of the United States. These men +enlisted with no bounty but what the General so well named as the "great +boon awarded to each of them, the result of the war,--Freedom for +himself and his race forever." They enlisted, knowing that at that time +the Government promised them but ten dollars a month. In view of these +facts, we consider the proportion of soldiers, nearly one in eight, +extraordinary,--though we are aware that the number includes many who +had not lived in those counties, who came into our lines with the +purpose of enlisting. These simple figures involve the first feature of +the true policy in the "Four-Million question." The war offers the +negroes this priceless bounty. Let them fight for it. Let us enlist +them, to the last man we can persuade to serve. + +"If you do that," says Brazen-Face, "you have left on your hands a horde +of starving imbeciles, women, and orphans, to support, from whom you +have cruelly separated their able-bodied men." No, Brazen-Face, we have +no such thing. In the month of March the Government had to supply +rations in the district we have named to only seven thousand eight +hundred and fifty persons who were members of the families of these +soldiers,--the cost being about one dollar a month for each of them. Now +the State of Massachusetts, dear Brazen-Face, supplies "State-aid" to +the families of its soldiers; and for this support, in this very city of +yours, it pays on the average five times as much in proportion as the +United States has to pay for the families of these colored soldiers. +Nay, you may even take all the persons relieved by Government in General +Butler's district,--the number is sixteen thousand seven hundred and +sixteen,--count them all as the families of soldiers, which not one-half +of them are, and the whole support which they all receive from +Government is not half as much as the families of the same number of +soldiers are costing the State of Massachusetts. So much for the expense +of this system. There is no money-bounty, and the "family-aid" is but +one-fifth of that we pay in the case of our own brothers. The figures in +General Saxton's district are as gratifying. We have not the Louisiana +statistics at hand. And we have not learned that anybody has attempted +any statistics in the District of Columbia, or on the Mississippi River. +But this illustration, in two districts where the enlistment of colored +troops has been pushed to the very edge of its development, is enough to +make out another point in the policy of victory, which is, that the +colored soldier is the cheapest soldier whom we have in our lines, +though we pay him, as of course we should do, full pay. + +How is this cheapness of administration gained? The answer is in the +second great principle which belongs to the policy of using our +victories. Change the homes of the people as little as possible. The +families of negroes in the Virginia district are put upon separate farms +as far as possible,--on land, and for crops, as nearly as possible, the +same as they were used to. These people are conservative. They are fond +of home. They are used to work; and they can take care of themselves. +Every inducement is given them, therefore, to establish themselves. +Farms of eight or ten acres each from abandoned property are allotted +them. Where the Government employs any of them, it employs them only at +the same rate as the soldier is paid,--so that, if the negro can earn +more than that, he does so, and is urged, as well as permitted to do +so. He is not bound to the soil, except by merely temporary agreement. +What follows is that he uses the gift of freedom to his own best +advantage. "Political freedom," says the philosophical General, "rightly +defined, is liberty to work." The negroes in his command show that they +understand the definition. And this is the reason why, as we have +explained, the "family-relief" costs but one-fifth what it does here in +Boston. + +"But," says Grunnio, at this point, "how will you protect your ten-acre +farms from invidious neighbors, from wandering guerrillas?" We will +advise them, dear grumbler, to protect themselves. That is one of the +responsibilities which freemen have to take as the price of freedom. In +the department of Norfolk, where seventeen thousand blacks are +supporting themselves on scattered farms, we believe not a pig has been +stolen nor a fence broken down on their little plantations by semi-loyal +neighbors, who had, perhaps, none too much sympathy, at the first, with +their prosperity. These amiable neighbors were taught, from the first, +that the rights of the colored farmers were just the same as their own, +and that they would be very apt to retaliate in kind for injuries. Of +such a system one result is that no guerrilla-warfare has yet been known +in the counties of Virginia where such a peasantry is establishing +itself. It is near our posts, it is true,--not nearer, however, than +some of the regions where Mosby has won his laurels. We believe that +this system deserves to be pressed much farther. We can see that the +farmers on such farms may have to be supplied in part with arms for +their defence. They may have to be taught to use them. Without providing +depots of supplies for an enemy, however, we believe there might be a +regular system of establishing the negro in his own home, on or near the +plantation where he was born, which would give us from the beginning the +advantages of a settled country, instead of a desert in the regions in +the rear of our lines. + +These three suggestions are enough to determine a general policy which +shall give us, in all instances, the immediate use of our victories. Let +us enlist all the able-bodied men we can from the negroes. Let us +establish the rest as near their old homes as we can,--not in +poor-houses or phalansteries, but on their own farms. Let us appoint for +each proper district a small staff of officers sufficient to see that +their rights are respected by their neighbors, and that they have means +to defend themselves against reckless or unorganized aggression. There +seems to be no need of sending them as fugitives to our rear. There +seems to be no need of leaving the country we pass a desert. There seems +to be no need of waiting a year or two before we find for them their +places. God has found for them their places. Let them stay where they +were born. We have made them freemen. Let them understand that they must +maintain their freedom. + +More simply stated, such a policy amounts merely to this: "Treat them as +you would treat white people." + +"What would you do with the blacks?" said a Commission of Inquiry to an +intelligent jurist who had made some very brilliant decisions at New +Orleans. + +"I would not do anything with them," was his very happy and suggestive +reply. + +He would let them alone. If we could free ourselves of the notion that +we must huddle them together, or that we must carry them to some strange +land,--in short, that they have no rights of home and fireside,--we +should find that we had a much smaller problem to deal with. Keep them +where you find them, unless they will go on and fight with you. Whether +they go or stay, let them understand that they are your friends and you +are theirs, and that they must defend themselves, if they expect you to +defend them. + +The education and the civilization will follow. "The church and the +school," as John Adams says, "belong with the town and the militia." The +statistics of General Butler's department begin to show that a larger +proportion of blacks are at school there than of whites. As we write +these words, we receive General Banks's Order No. 38, issued March 22, +providing for a board of education, and a tax upon property to establish +schools for black and for white children. We have no fears that such +results will be slow, if the enfranchised peasantry, one million or four +million, have the right to work on their own land, or to accept the +highest wage that offers,--if they find they are not arbitrarily removed +from their old homes,--and if the protection of those homes is, in the +first instance, intrusted to themselves. + +These are the first-fruits of freedom for them. For us they are the +legitimate use of victory. It only remains that we shall mildly, but +firmly, instruct all officers of the Government that it is time for some +policy to be adopted which shall involve such uses of victory. The +country will be encouraged, the moment it sees that the freedmen are +finding their proper places in the new civilization. The country expects +its rulers not to wait for chapters of accidents or for volunteer boards +to work out such policy, but themselves to provide the system of +administration, and the intelligent men who shall promptly and skilfully +avail themselves of every victory. + + + + +REVIEWS AND LITERARY NOTICES. + + +_History of the Romans under the Empire._ By CHARLES MERIVALE, +B. D., late Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. From the Fourth +London Edition. With a Copious Analytical Index. New York: D. Appleton & +Co. 8vo. Vols. I. & II. + +People of the last century had a very easy time with their Roman +history, and any gentleman could pick up enough of it "in course of his +morning's reading" to answer the demands of a lifetime. Men read and +believed. They had no more doubt of the existence of Romulus and Remus +than of the existence of Fairfax and Cromwell. As to the story of those +dropped children being nursed by a she-wolf, had it not been established +that wolves did sometimes suckle humanity's young? and why should it be +supposed that no lupine nursery had ever existed at the foot of the +Palatine Hill? After swallowing the wolf-story, everything else was +easy; and the history of the Roman Kings was as gravely received as the +history of the Roman Emperors. The Brutus who upset the Tarquins was as +much an historical character as the Brutus who assassinated Cæsar and +killed himself. Tullia had lived and sinned, just like Messallina. The +Horatii were of flesh and blood, like the Triumvirs. So was it with +regard to the Empire. The same short work that was made with Regal Rome +and the early Republican period was applied to the Imperial age. Julius +Cæsar was the destroyer of Roman liberty, and Pompeius was the unlucky +champion of his country's constitution. With few exceptions, the +Emperors were the greatest moral monsters that ever had lived and +reigned. It is true that two or three critical writers had so handled +historical subjects as to create some doubts as to the exact correctness +of the popular view of Roman history; but those doubts were monopolized +by a few scholars, and by no means tended to shake the faith which even +the educated classes had in the vulgar view of the actions of the mighty +conquering race of antiquity. + +But all has been changed. For half a century, learned men have been +busily employed in pulling down the edifice of Roman history, until they +have unsettled everybody's faith in that history. No one now pretends, +seriously, to believe anything that is told of the Romans farther back +than the time of Pyrrhus. Clouds and darkness rest over the earlier +centuries, and defy penetration. What Sir Thomas Browne says of Egypt is +not inapplicable to early Rome. History mumbleth something to the +inquirer, "but what it is he heareth not." Not even the story of Curtius +now finds believers. He must have been a contractor, who made an +enormous fortune at the time of the secession of the plebs, and ruined +himself by the operation. So far as relates to early Roman history, want +of faith is very natural; for what documents have we to go upon in +making up an opinion concerning it? None to speak of. But it is strange, +at the first thought, that there should be any difficulty in making up a +judgment concerning the history of the last century or two of the +Republic, and of the Imperial period. Of those times much that was then +written still survives, and many of the works that were familiar to the +Romans are even more familiar to the moderns. Yet there is a wide +difference of sentiment as to the character of the Roman Revolution, and +the objects and the actions of the eminent men who figured in that +Revolution are yet in dispute; and the contention is almost as fierce, +at times, as it was in the days of Pharsalia and Philippi. There are +Pompeians and Cæsarians now, as there were nineteen centuries ago, only +that the pen with them is indeed mightier than the sword. Cæsar's case +has been reviewed, and the current of opinion is now setting strongly in +his favor. Instead of being looked upon as a mere vulgar usurper, who +differed from other usurpers only in having a greater stage, and talents +proportioned to that stage, he is held up as the man of his times, and +as the only man who could fulfil the demands of the crisis that existed +after the death of Sulla. According to Mr. Merivale, who is a very +moderate Cæsarian, Cæsar was "the true captain and lawgiver and prophet +of the age" in which he lived. When such an assertion can be made by an +English gentleman of well-balanced mind, we may form some idea of the +intensity of that Cæsarism which prevails in fiercer minds, and which is +intended to have an effect on contemporary rule. For the controversy +which exists relative to the merits of Romans "dead, and turned to +clay," is not merely critical and scholastic, but is enlivened by its +direct bearing upon living men and contending parties. Cæsarism means +Napoleonism. The Bonaparte family is the Julian family of to-day. +Napoleon I. stood for the great Julius, and Napoleon III. is the modern +(and very Gallic) Cæsar Augustus, the avenger of his ill-used uncle, and +the crusher of the Junii and the Crassi, and all the rest of the +aristocrats, who overthrew him, and caused his early death. It is not +necessary to point out the utter absurdity of this attempt to justify +modern despotism by referring to the action of men who lived and acted +in the greatest of ancient revolutions; and those men who admire Julius +Cæsar, but who are not disposed to see in his conduct a justification of +the conduct of living men, object to the French Imperial view of his +career. Mommsen, whose admiration of Cæsar is as ardent as his knowledge +of Roman history is great, speaks with well-deserved scorn of the +efforts that are made to defend contemporary usurpation by +misrepresentation of the history of antiquity. One of his remarks is +curious, read in connection with that history which daily appears in our +journals. Writing before our civil war began, he declared, that, if ever +the slaveholding aristocracy of the Southern States of America should +bring matters to such a pass as their counterparts in the Rome of Sulla, +Cæsarism would be pronounced legitimate there also by the spirit of +history,--an observation that derived new interest from the report that +General Lee was to be made Dictator of the Confederacy, and Mr. Davis +allowed to go into that retirement which is so much admired and so +little sought by all politicians. Mommsen, after the remark above +quoted, proceeds to say, that, whenever Cæsarism "appears under other +social conditions, it is at once a usurpation and a caricature. History, +however, will not consent to curtail the honor due to the true Cæsar, +because her decision, in the presence of false Cæsars, may give occasion +to simplicity to play the fool and to villany to play the rogue. She, +too, is a Bible, and if she can as little prevent herself from being +misunderstood by the fool and quoted by the Devil, she ought as little +to be prejudiced by either." Strong words, but very natural as coming +from a learned German who finds his own theory turned to account by the +supporters of a house which Germany once helped to overthrow, and which +she would gladly aid in overthrowing again. Perhaps Dr. Mommsen will +soon have an opportunity to speak more at length of French Cæsarism, for +the first two volumes of Napoleon III.'s "Life of Julius Cæsar" are +announced as nearly ready for publication, and their appearance cannot +fail to be the signal for a battle royal, as few scholars, we presume, +will be content to take historical law from an Emperor. The modern +master of forty legions will not be as fortunate as Hadrian in finding +philosophers disinclined to question his authority in letters; and he +may fare even worse at their hands than he fared at those of Mr. +Kinglake. The republic of letters is not to be mastered by a _coup +d'état_. + +The opponents of Cæsarism have not been silent, and it would be neither +uninteresting nor unprofitable, did time permit, to show how well they +have disposed of most of the arguments of their foes. The question is +not the old one, whether the party of Cæsar or that of Pompeius was the +better one, for at bottom the two were very much the same, the struggle +being for supremacy over the whole Roman dominion; and it is certain +that there would have been no essential change of political procedure, +had the decision at Pharsalia been reversed. On that field Cæsar was the +nominal champion of the liberal faction, and Pompeius was the nominal +champion of the _optimates_. Had Cæsar lost the day, the plebeian +Pompeian house would have furnished an imperial line, instead of that +line proceeding from the patrician Julii. Pompeius would have been as +little inclined to abandon the fruits of his victory to the aristocrats +as Cæsar showed himself to set up the rule of the Forum-populace, to +whose support he owed so much. It was to free himself from the weight of +his equals that Pompeius selected the East for the seat of war, when +there were so many strong military reasons why he should have proceeded +to the West, to Romanized Spain, where he had veteran legions that might +under his lead have been found the equals of Cæsar's small, but most +efficient army. He wished to get out of the Republican atmosphere, and +into a country where "the one-man power" was the recognized idea of +rule. He acted as a politician, not as a soldier, when he sailed from +Brundisium to the East, and the nobility were not blind to the fact, and +were not long in getting their revenge; for it was through their +political influence that Pompeius was forced to deliver battle at +Pharsalia, when there were strong military reasons for refusing to +fight. That they were involved in their chief's fall was only in +accordance with the usual course of things, there being nothing to equal +the besotted blindness of faction, as our current history but too +clearly proves. + +As between Cæsar and Pompeius, therefore, it is natural and just that +modern liberals should sympathize with the former, and contemplate his +triumph with pleasure, as he was by far the abler and better man, and +did not stain his success by bloodshed and plunder, things which the +Pompeians had promised themselves on a scale that would have astonished +Marius and Sulla, and which the Triumvirs never thought of equalling. +But when we are asked to behold as the result of the Roman Revolution +the deliverance of the provincials, and that as of purpose on the part +of the victor, we are inclined, in return, to ask of the Cæsarians +whether they think mankind are such fools as not to be able to read and +to understand the Imperial history. That Cæsar's success was beneficial +to Rome's subjects we do not dispute; but that the change he effected +was of the sweeping character claimed for it, or that Cæsar ever thought +of being the reformer that his admirers declare him to have been, are +things yet to be proved. The change that came from the substitution of +the Imperial polity for the Republican was the result of circumstances, +and it was of slow growth. Imperialism was an Octavian, not a Julian +creation, as any reader will be able to understand who goes through the +closing chapters of Mr. Merivale's third volume. The first Cæsar's +imperial career was too short, and too full of hard military work, to +admit of much being done by him of a political character; nor would it +have been possible for him, had he been a much younger man, and had he +lived for years, to accomplish what was effected by Augustus. The +terrible crisis that followed his death, and which lasted until the +decision of "the world's debate" at Actium gave a master to the Roman +world, prepared the way for the work that was done by his grand-nephew +and adopted son. The severe discipline which the Romans went through +between the day of Munda and that of Actium made them more acquiescent +in despotism than they would have been found, if Julius Cæsar's mild +sway had been continued through that interval. It has been said that the +Triumvirate converted Cæsar's sword into daggers, and the expression is +by no means too strong, as the world has never witnessed such another +reign of terror as followed from the union of Octavius, Antonius, and +Lepidus. If that union was formed for the purpose of reconciling men to +despotic rule, it must be allowed the merit that belongs to a perfect +invention. Without it the Roman Empire might never have had an +existence. + +Mr. Merivale's work may be considered as forming the text-book of +moderate Cæsarism. An Englishman, he cannot be an advocate of despotism; +but he sees that the time had come for a change, and that under Cæsar's +direction the change could be better made than under that of Pompeius or +his party. This is something very different from blind advocacy of +Cæsarism; and we can follow him through his clear and vigorous narrative +of the events of the Revolution with general acquiescence in his views. +His first and second volumes, which are immediately under consideration, +may be said to form the history of the career of Cæsar, and to present +the best account of that career which has been published in our +language. Introductory matter apart, his book opens with the appearance +of the first Emperor on the political stage, and the second volume +closes at the date of his assassination. His various political actions, +his achievements in Gaul and Britain, his marvellous exploits in Italy, +Spain, Macedonia, Greece, and Africa in the Civil War, and the character +of his legislation, are here told and set forth in a manner that comes +very near to perfection. There is a vividness in the narrative, and a +bringing-out of individual portraits, that make the work read like a +history of contemporary events. Nor does the author's just admiration of +Cæsar's extraordinary intellect and wonderful deeds cause him to be +unjust to the eminent men on the other side, though as a rule he deals +severely with those Romans whom the world admires, when treating of the +effects of their conduct. It has been objected to his history, that he +speaks with freedom of Cicero's conduct on many occasions, but we think +that he has not exceeded the bounds of just criticism when considering +the course of the Roman orator; and in his third volume, when summing up +his character, he employs the most generous and lofty language in +speaking of him. "After all the severe judgments we are compelled to +pass on his conduct," he says, "we must acknowledge that there remains a +residue of what is amiable in his character and noble in his teaching +beyond all ancient example. Cicero lived and died in faith. He has made +converts to the belief in virtue, and had disciples in the wisdom of +love. There have been dark periods in the history of man, when the +feeble ray of religious instruction paled before the torch of his +generous philanthropy. The praise which the great critic pronounced upon +his excellence in oratory may be justly extended to the qualities of his +heart; and even in our enlightened days it may be held no mean advance +in virtue to venerate the master of Roman philosophy." An intelligent +admirer of the most illustrious victim of the Triumvirate will consider +these words something far better than anything that can be found in +Middleton's "lying legend in honor of St. Tully." It may be observed +that admiration of Cicero and sympathy with the Roman aristocratical +party mostly go together; and yet the Roman aristocracy disliked Cicero, +and their writers treated him harshly, while he received kind treatment +from writers on the other side. Livy, whom Augustus himself called the +_Pompeian_, says of Cicero that "he bore none of his calamities as a man +should, except his death"; and "Lucan denounces his perverse impolicy." +Mr. Merivale, in a note, observes that it can hardly be accidental that +Tacitus, in his historical works, never mentions him, and adds, "The +most glowing tribute to Cicero's merits is the well-known passage in +Juvenal, and this is written in the spirit of a Marian, or +anti-oligarch." Velleius, who is generally spoken of as a sort of +literary flunky of the Cæsars, warmly panegyrizes Cicero. Had the +Pompeians triumphed, Cicero would not have found Italy the safe place +that it was to him under Cæsar's rule. He would have fared as badly at +their hands as he did at those of the Clodian rabble, and Pompeius might +have been to him what Antonius became after Cæsar's death. + +The portrait which Mr. Merivale has drawn of Cato does not meet with the +approval of those persons who admire old Roman virtue, of which Cato +was the impersonation; but they would find it difficult to show that he +has done that stubborn Stoic any injustice. Cato modelled himself on his +great-grandfather, Cato the Censor, a mean fellow, who sold his old +slaves in order that they might not become a charge upon him; but, as +our author remarks, the character of the Censor had been simple and true +to Nature, while that of his descendant was a system of elaborate, +though unconscious affectations. Cato behaved as absurdly as an American +would behave who should attempt to imitate his great-grandfather, the +old gentleman having died a loyal subject of George II. He was an honest +man, according to the Roman standard of honesty, which allowed a great +margin for the worst villany, provided it were done for the public good, +or what was supposed to be the public good. Like some politicians of our +time, he thought, that, when he had made it appear that a certain course +would be in accordance with ancient precedent, it should be +adopted,--making no allowance for the thousand disturbing causes which +the practical politician knows must be found on any path that may be +selected. Of all the men whose conduct brought about the Civil War, he +was the most virtuous, and he had the sagacity to oppose a resort to +arms; though how he succeeded in reconciling his aversion to war with +his support of a policy that led directly to its existence is one of the +mysteries of those days. The Pompeians found him a bore, and, had they +been victorious, would have saved him the trouble of killing himself, by +cutting off his head. Cato was one of the very few persons for whom +Cæsar felt a strong dislike; but he would not have harmed him, had he +got his own consent to live. From Cato he had experienced no such insult +as he had met with from M. Marcellus, and Marcellus received permission +to return to Rome; but Cato was of an unmalleable nature, and preferred, +to an ignoble silence in Italy, the noble silence of the grave. He died +"after the high Roman fashion." Suicide might be called the natural +death of a Roman leader of that age, and nothing but the violence of +enemies could dispute the title with it. Cato, Brutus, Cassius, +Antonius, and others fell by their own hands, or by the hands of persons +who acted by their orders. Cæsar, Pompeius, Cicero, and Crassus were +murdered. Nothing serves more to show how much Augustus differed from +most Romans of his century than the fact that he died in his bed at +extreme old age. + +That Mr. Merivale's Cæsarism does not prevent him from doing justice to +the opponents of Cæsar is proved by his portrait of Q. Lutatius Catulus, +the best leader of the _optimates_, and whom he pronounces to have been +the most moderate and disinterested of all the great men of his +day,--"indeed," he adds, "there is perhaps no character in the history +of the Commonwealth which commanded more general esteem, or obtained +more blameless distinction in political life." Yet Catulus was one of +those men with whom Cæsar came earliest in collision, each as the +representative of his party on vital points of difference. Our +historian's estimate of the life, labors, purposes, and character of +Pompeius is singularly correct, when we consider the temptation that he +has to underrate the man with whom Cæsar has stood in direct opposition +for nineteen centuries. There are few more emphatic passages in the +historical literature of our language than the account which is given in +Vol. II. ch. 18, of the last days and death of Pompeius, and which is +followed by a most judicious summing-up of his history and position as a +Roman leader. The historian's mind appears to be strongly affected by +the fate of the Pompeian house, as much so as was the imagination of the +Romans, which it seems to have haunted. This is in part due, we presume, +to the free use which he has made of Lucan's "Pharsalia," a work of +great value to those who would understand how the grand contest for +supremacy was viewed by the beaten party in after times. That poem is +the funeral wail of the Roman aristocracy, and it embodies the ideas and +traditions of the vanquished as they existed far down into the Imperial +age. It testifies to the original vitality of the aristocratical +faction, when we find a youthful contemporary of Nero dedicating his +genius to its service more than a century after the contest had been +decided on the battlefield. Whether Lucan was a patriot, or a selfish, +but disappointed courtier, we may feel certain that he never could have +written in the Pompeian spirit, if that spirit was not still dominant +in the minds of a large number of those men and women who formed the +most cultivated portion of Roman society. To a critical historian, such +as Mr. Merivale is, his poem must be very useful, though it would be +dangerous authority in unskilful hands. + +The leading merit of this history is that it supplies a want, and +supplies it effectually. Opening about sixty years before the beginning +of the Christian era, it terminates with the death of M. Aurelius +Antoninus, the point where Gibbon's work begins. We still need a work +beginning with the close of the Second Punic War and ending with the +death of Sulla, to connect Merivale with Arnold; but Mr. George Long is +about to supply the want, at least in part. The first two volumes, as we +have said, end at the date of Cæsar's death. The third and fourth +embrace the long period in which Augustus was the principal character, +and when the Roman Empire was formed. The fifth and sixth cover the +reigns of Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, Nero, Galba, Otho, and +Vitellius, and a portion of the reign of Vespasian. The seventh and last +volume is devoted to the first Flavian house,--Vespasian, Titus, and +Domitian,--and to those "five good Emperors"--Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, +and the Antonines--whose reigns are renowned in the history of monarchy +for their excellence. The materials of the work are, for the most part, +ample, and they have been well employed by the historian, a man of +extensive scholarship and of critical sagacity. Whether we subscribe to +his opinions or not, there can be no doubt of his having presented a +brilliant picture of the civilized world during about two and a half +eventful centuries. His is the only readable work that we have which +affords a continuous narrative of the history of Rome from the +appearance of Cæsar to the appearance of Commodus. Had it no other claim +upon us, this alone would justify us in recommending it to the closest +attention of all who desire to become acquainted with the facts that +make up the sum of Roman Imperial history. But it has other claims to +the consideration of readers. It makes Roman Imperial history thoroughly +intelligible, because events are philosophically treated, and their +bearing upon each other is rendered clear. It is written with vivacity, +force, and elegance. The style is the style of a gentleman, and the +sentiments are those of a Christian scholar. There is not a paragraph in +it which we could wish to see omitted, or essentially changed. It has +won for its author a place in the list of first-rate English historians, +and he is to be ranked with Macaulay, Grote, Hallam, Froude, Kinglake, +and others of those great writers who have done so much to illustrate +the English name and to advance the cause of humanity. Being familiar +with the work from the time that the first and second volumes were +published in England, in 1850, we have always desired that it should be +placed before the American reading public, confident that here its high +merits would secure for it a great and deserved popularity; and it is +with a sense of personal gratification that we have seen its publication +begun in New York, in a form that pleases the eye and gratifies good +taste. + + +_Church Pastorals_: Hymns and Tunes for Public and Social Worship. +Collected and Arranged by NEHEMIAH ADAMS, D. D. Boston: Ticknor +& Fields. + +The Rev. Dr. Bushnell, in August, 1852, delivered an address upon +"Religious Music" before the Beethoven Society of Yale College at the +opening of their new organ. In the peroration of this address, after +remarking upon the great assistance which Christian feeling receives in +the praise of God from "things without life giving sound," he goes on to +say,--"Let me suggest, also, in this connection, the very great +importance of the cultivation of religious music. Every family should be +trained in it; every Sunday or common school should have it as one of +its exercises. The Moravians have it as a kind of ordinance of grace for +the children: not without reason; for the powers of feeling and +imagination, and the sense of spiritual realities, are developed as much +by a training of childhood in religious music as by any other means. We +complain that choirs and organs take the music to themselves in our +churches, and that nothing is left to the people but to hear their +undistinguishable piping, which no one else can join or follow or +interpret. This must always be the complaint, till the congregations +themselves have exercise enough in singing to make the performance +theirs. As soon as they are able to throw in masses of sound that are +not barbarous, but Christian, and have a right enjoyment of their +feeling in it, they will have the tunes and the style of the exercise in +their own way,--not before.... The more sorrowful is it, that, in our +present defect of culture, there are so many voices which are more +incapable of the right distinctions of sound than things without life, +and which, when they attempt to sing, contribute more to the feeling of +woe than of praise." + +These words are as true to-day as when they were uttered twelve years +ago. Congregations which do not desire, or cannot afford, to resign the +musical portion of their service to professional singers, have something +more to do than to complain that the music is bad, or that they do not +like paid vocalists to troll out psalmody for them. They must go to work +and make their own music,--real music; for in these days unharmonious +sounds are almost as much out of place in the worship of God as an +uncatholic spirit and an heretical doctrine. The truth of this principle +many societies admit, and some, like the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher's, have +already put it into practice; the majority, however, wait for help to +free themselves from the customs which have kept them listeners when +they should be creators of vocal praise. The great obstacle to +congregational singing has been that the range of tunes already familiar +was very limited, while the providing a whole society with the +paraphernalia of music-books involved great expense to small purpose, +since a large portion of the tunes contained in these books are +unavailable for such use, being prepared with a view to the wants of +thoroughly trained singers; besides which, the reference to two books, +one for the words and the other for the music, is to many persons +perplexing, and to all inconvenient. + +"Church Pastorals" is an attempt to overcome this obstacle, and to +extend that help which is wanted. Other attempts have been made before, +but we regard this as the most successful, and consider that Dr. Adams +has prepared the best hymn-and-tune-book that has yet been issued, as we +propose briefly to illustrate by a recapitulation of his plan and his +manner of executing it. + +The hymns, which are nine hundred and eighty-eight in number, are +selected from the great mass of hymn-writers; although Watts and the +Wesleys furnish the foundation, and the materials of the superstructure +are largely drawn from Doddridge, Cowper, Toplady, Montgomery, and +others of kindred spirit, yet many beautiful things have been added from +the later religious poetry, which are no less fervid in feeling, while +less pronounced in doctrinal expression. These hymns are arranged in +judicious general divisions, which are again analytically separated into +special topics placed in logical sequence. After the hymns follow +thirty-eight doxologies, the editor having added to the short list of +common ones others which are fine enough to become standard at once. + +But it is less as a hymn- than as a tune-book that "Church Pastorals" +merits the notice of societies and individuals who are truly interested +in religious music, and we pass at once to our remarks upon this portion +of the work. The compiler, although holding himself personally +responsible for every selection, has availed himself of the advice and +assistance of persons professionally eminent in sacred music, one of +whom placed at his disposal a library which is unique in this country, +containing works of which few Americans have owned or seen duplicates, +such as rare "Choral-Bücher" of German cathedrals, and curious +collections of English ecclesiastical compositions, a partial list of +which is included in the volume, for the benefit of those who are +curious in such matters, or wish to know how far Dr. Adams's researches +have led him. To ascertain how many new melodies of the purest +devotional character have been derived from these rich sources a careful +examination is necessary, as also to comprehend with what skill the +harmony has been preserved or adapted, in order to secure the two +desirable results,--absolute freshness and beauty of treatment, and +practicability for ordinary use; but a casual inspection will give +sufficient indication of the spirit in which the work was undertaken, +and of the faithfulness with which it has been completed. + +While originality has been properly sought, the old, familiar elements +have not been neglected, and those simple songs which were upon the lips +of our parents and grandparents, and are yet dear to us from association +and intrinsic worth, are set in among the newer strains. The first +lines only are given of such as need merely to be recalled to the memory +of any who ever sing; but of others, equally prized, but less likely to +be remembered, the full score is given. + +The doxologies are for the most part set to noble chorals of such +strong, straightforward character that they cannot fail to become +friends and intimates at once. In them, as in all the tunes, the compass +of ordinary voices has been considered; and although nothing has been +left undone which could give beauty to melody or scholarly variousness +to harmony, the whole has been brought within the range of all singers. + +A novel and peculiar feature of the book is its "Stanzas to be sung +_impromptu_." Occasions often arise at social meetings or special +services, when it becomes desirable to sing a portion, or even the +whole, of some homely, hearty hymn, but, while "the spirit moves," the +opportunity is lost in the search for the words or the fit air, or in an +attempt to "set the tune." To meet this want, Dr. Adams has brought +together a variety of such stanzas, suited to all times and places, and, +coupled with each, the first line of a familiar melody, that the +propitious moment may be enjoyed and improved. + +It will of course be understood that the tune appointed for each hymn is +printed directly above it, all four parts being given at length, the two +trebles printed in a not unusual way upon one staff, the tenor and bass +having each separate lines. Therefore no difficulty in singing the hymns +can be felt even by the inexperienced, especially as one stanza is +printed with the notes to show the exact adaptation. + +In fine, "Church Pastorals" is a work worthy of an extended circulation +and capable of great usefulness. It can serve every purpose of public +worship, for it embraces all services of the Sabbath congregation or the +week-day gathering, and it touches upon all thoughts and feelings of +religious assemblies; it is not above the tastes and abilities of an +earnest congregation, nor beneath the notice and use of the independent +choir. More than this, it has a particular value for the home and the +fireside. Every household knows some quiet hour when the family-voices +seek to join in the happy harmony of some unpretending hymn, and when +the only limit to such grateful music is the failure of memory or the +meagreness of the library, which furnishes only the hymns, or, giving +the tunes, supplies only a part of the words,--for few families possess +both sorts of books in plenty for their convenient use. This volume +offers all,--the hymn, solemn, hopeful, sad, or jubilant, and united to +it a tune, perhaps remembered from recollection's earliest days, perhaps +unknown and untried, but suiting well the spirit of the words, and ready +at an instant's desire to express the sentiment or emotion that rises +for utterance. If "Church Pastorals" had no other merit, this alone +would make it worth possessing by all who love and ever practise sacred +music. + +A thorough and elaborate index includes in one ingenious list all +references, whether to hymns, tunes, or metres; and the inaccuracies +which will creep into even as handsome typography as this are +unimportant, and rectified as quickly as observed. The size is +convenient, and the shape comely. + + +_Illustrations of Progress_: A Series of Discussions by HERBERT +SPENCER. With a Notice of Spencer's "New System of Philosophy." New +York: D. Appleton & Co. + +Mr. Herbert Spencer is already a power in the world. Yet it is not the +vulgar apprehension of power which is associated with notoriety that we +claim for him. He holds no position of civil authority, neither +do his works compete with Miss Braddon's poorest novel in the +circulating-libraries. But he has already influenced the silent life of +a few thinking men whose belief marks the point to which the +civilization of the age must struggle to rise. In America, we may even +now confess our obligations to the writings of Mr. Spencer, for here +sooner than elsewhere the mass feel as utility what a few recognize as +truth. The reader acquainted with the admirable papers upon Education, +which have been republished and extensively circulated in this country, +has recognized their author's fresh and vigorous spirit, his power of +separating the essential from the accidental, as well as his success in +grasping the main features of a subject divested of frivolous and +subordinate details. That he possesses a thinking faculty of rare +comprehensiveness, as well as acuteness, will be allowed by all who will +study his other works now in course of republication in New York. + +Mr. Spencer is at present engaged in an heroic attempt to construct a +sufficing system of philosophy, which shall include Biology, Psychology, +Sociology, and Morality. The great interest to mankind of the discussion +proposed, as well as Mr. Spencer's claims to be intrusted with it, are +set forth with singular clearness and felicity in the essay which +introduces the present volume. Whatever success the latest discoveries +in science render possible to solid intellectual force assisted by the +keenest instruments of logic will doubtless be attained. As far as the +frontiers of knowledge where the intellect may go, there is no living +man whose guidance may more safely be trusted. Mr. Spencer represents +the scientific spirit of the age. He makes note of all that comes within +the range of sensuous experience, and declares whatever may be derived +therefrom by a careful induction. As a philosopher he does not go +farther. Yet beyond this the heart of humanity must ever penetrate. Let +it be true, as it doubtless is, that, when the understanding by process +of logic seeks to demonstrate the Cause of All, it finds a barren +abstraction destitute of personality. It is no less true that God +reveals Himself to the human feeling without intermediate agency. For +the religious _sentiment_ Mr. Spencer finds an indestructible +foundation. While maintaining that man can grasp and know only the +finite, he yet holds that science does not fill the whole region of +mental activity. Man may realize in consciousness what he may not grasp +in thought. + +Of the other doctrines of Mr. Spencer we attempt no exposition. His +attitude towards theology is to us more satisfactory than that of any +recent thinker of the first class. But whatever his conclusions, every +true man will respect and encourage that rectitude of mind which follows +the issues of its reasoning at any cost. It was not the philosopher in +his brain, but the fool _in his heart_, who said, "There is no God." It +is of little matter what inappropriate name narrow people may have +chosen for Mr. Spencer. Here is a conscientious investigator who finds +duty everywhere, who labors to give men truths which shall elevate and +reform their lives; but he believes that the hope of humanity was +potentially shut in an egg, and never in an ark. And there is the +"reader upon the sofa,"--church-member he may be,--who tosses aside +"Vanity Fair" with the reflection that a gossiping of London snobs is +human life, and that the best thing to be done is to pay pew-rates and +lie still and gird at it. Which of these two, think you, is the modern +representative of King David's "fool"? + +We would not be charged with the superfluity of commending to scholars +the writings of Mr. Spencer. They have long ago found them out. It is to +the mass of working men and women who make time for a solid book or two +in the course of the year that we submit their claims. While those who +have the leisure and training to realize Mr. Spencer's system as a +developed unity must necessarily be few, no reader of tolerable +intelligence can fail to find much of interest and suggestion in its +several parts. With a common allowance for the abstruse nature of the +subjects of which he treats, Mr. Spencer may be called a _popular_ +writer. His philosophical terminology will not be found troublesome in +those of his writings which will first attract the reader. The "Social +Statics," the "Essays," and the treatise on "Education" are very +clearly, as well as most gracefully, written. And after these have been +mastered, most readers will not be repelled by the less easy reading of +the "Principles of Psychology," and the "New System of Philosophy." All +these works are rich in materials for forming intelligent opinions, even +where we are unable to agree with those put forward by the author. Much +may be learnt from them in departments in which our common educational +system is very deficient. The active citizen may derive from them +accurate, systematized information concerning his highest duties to +society, and the principles on which they are based. He may gain clearer +notions of the value and bearing of evidence, and be better able to +distinguish between facts and inferences. He may find common things +suggestive of wiser thought--nay, we will venture to say, of truer +emotion--than before. For Mr. Spencer is not of that school of +"philosophy" which teaches the hopelessness of human effort, and, by +implication, the abandonment of moral dignity. From profound +generalizations upon society, he rises to make the duty of the +individual most solemn and imperative. Above all, he has this best +prerogative of really great thinkers,--he is able to change sentiments +to convictions. + +If we have not particularized the claims of the single volume whose +title is at the head of our notice, it is because all that Mr. Spencer +has written moves towards one end and is equally worthy of attention. +The essays here given are selected from two series, the first published +in 1857, the second in 1863. The present arrangement has been chosen by +the author as more suitable to develop the general purpose which governs +his work. While the doctrine of Evolution is more or less illustrated in +each of these papers, the variety of subjects discussed must touch at +some point the taste and pursuit of any reader. From "Manners and +Fashion" to "The Nebular Hypothesis" is a sweep bold enough to include +most prominent topics with which we are concerned. Indeed, we can recall +no modern volume of the same size which so thoroughly credits its author +with that faculty of looking about him which Pope thought it was man's +business to exercise. There are the current phrases, "seeing life," and +"knowing the world," which generally used to signify groping in the +dirtiest corners of the one and fattening lazily upon the other; but if +it were possible to rescue such expressions from their vulgar +associations, we think that a candid reader would apply the best +conceptions they suggested to the writer of the discussions here +collected. The world as it is to-day is seen by Mr. Spencer as by few +living men. The sciences, which taken singly too often seem only good to +expel the false, have been summoned together to declare the true. Not +Nature alone, but Humanity, which is greater than Nature, must be +interrogated for answers that shall satisfy the ripest reason of the +age. By the rare gifts of comparison which turn to account his wide +observations, Mr. Spencer has already established principles which, +however compelled for a time to compromise with prejudices and vested +interests, will become the recognized basis of an improved society. + +Our only interest in recommending this author to our countrymen comes +from the conviction that he is peculiarly capable of impressing for good +the present condition of our national character. By giving us fuller +realizations of liberty and justice his writings will tend to increase +our self-reliance in the great emergency of civilization to which we +have been summoned. "Our Progressive Independence," so brilliantly +illustrated by Dr. Holmes, emancipating us from foreign fine-writing, +leaves us free to welcome the true manhood and mature wisdom of Europe. +In the time of our old prosperity, amusing a leisure evening over +Kingsley or Ruskin, we were tempted to exclaim, with Sir Peter Teazle, +"There's nothing half so noble as a man of sentiment!" But in these +latter days we have seen "Mr. Gradgrind" step from Dickens's wretched +caricature to bring his "facts" to the great cause of humanity, while +"Joseph Surface" reserved his "sentiments" for the bloody business by +which Slavery sought to subject all things to herself. We have seen the +belles-lettres literature of England more deeply disgraced than when it +smirked before the harlots of the second Charles, or chanted a +blasphemous benediction over George IV. But the thought and science of +the Old World it is still our privilege to recognize. And it can hardly +be necessary to say that the sympathies of Mr. Spencer, like those of +Mill and Cochin, have been with the government and loyal people of the +United States. And so we take especial pleasure in mentioning that a +considerable interest in the American copyright of his writings has been +secured to the author, and also, despite the facilities of reading-clubs +and circulating-libraries, that they are emphatically _books to own_. + + +_Poems._ By FREDERICK GODDARD TUCKERMAN. Boston: Ticknor and +Fields. + +These poems show by internal evidence that they are the productions of a +man of refined organization and delicate sensibility to beauty, who has +lived much in solitude and tasted of the cup of sorrow. Of decided +originality in intellectual construction it cannot be said that they +give emphatic proof: the poet, as Schiller has said, is the child of his +age, and Mr. Tuckerman's poetry not unfrequently shows that he has been +a diligent student of those masters in his art who have best caught and +reproduced the spirit of the times in which we dwell. It has one quality +to a high degree,--and that is, a minute knowledge of the peculiarities +of the natural world as it appears in New England. In his long woodland +walks, he has kept open an eye of observation as practised as that of +the naturalist. The trees, the shrubs, the flowers of New England are +known to him as they are to few. He is tempted to draw too largely upon +this source of interest: in other words, there is too much of +description in his volume. Life is hardly long enough for such elaborate +painting. We may admire the skill of the delineation, but we cannot +pause sufficiently before the canvas to do full justice to the painter. +Those poems in which Mr. Tuckerman expresses the emotions of bereavement +and sorrow are those which have the highest merit in point of thought +and expression. They are full of tenderness and sensibility; but the +poet should bear in mind that strings which vibrate such music should be +sparingly struck. + +It may be somewhat paradoxical to say so, but it appears to us that the +poetry of Mr. Tuckerman would be improved, if it had more of prose in +it. It does not address itself to common emotions and every-day +sympathies. His flour is bolted too fine. One must almost be a poet +himself to enter into full communion with him. In intellectual +productions the refining process should not be carried too far: beyond a +certain point, what is gained in delicacy is lost in manliness and +power. + + +_Possibilities of Creation; or, What the World might have been._ A Book +of Fancies. London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. + +The author describes his work as a treatise of the Bridgewater class. We +should rather describe it as a _reductio ad absurdum_ in Natural +Philosophy. A great deal of humor, ingenuity, and information are +brought into play to turn the world upside-down, for the very laudable +purpose of demonstrating that it is better to be right side up,--a +method of demonstration curious and interesting enough, if comprised in +a single essay, but rather long-drawn-out, when spread over four hundred +pages. Suppose, for instance, is the writer's mode of argument, a +malicious demon let loose, with power to set the earth topsy-turvy, on +condition of keeping it still an earth. With what exultation does he +bestride the Himalayas to watch the convulsions which he causes! How +does he kick his heels against the mountain-flanks, in ecstasy at seeing +men bleached and blistered with the chlorine or nauseated with the +sulphuretted hydrogen which he has substituted for our wholesome and +pleasant air! Or what should we do, if potato-roots had happened to be +moistened with gin instead of water? What if men, instead of standing +god-like erect, had been great balls of flesh, rolling along the ground +as best they could,--if Young's poetical figure had been a practical +truth, and this globe were the Bedlam of the universe,--if the fixity of +Nature had been shattered, and we sat down at our feasts to find the +soup bitter as strychnine, the wine changed into vinegar, and mild ale +fiery as vitriol? What if wrinkles and gray hairs came in the twinkling +of an eye,--if children were born with matured minds,--if no one were +capable of anger,--and men started at the same point to arrive at the +same conclusions? In short,-- + + "If all the world was apple-pie, + And all the sea was ink, + And all the trees were bread and cheese, + What should we have for drink?" + +To all which startling inquiries we are fain to say, that, if Merrie +England sits under her present squally skies in such a frame of bliss +that she must have recourse to her imagination, when she wishes to +contemplate a nice little _imbroglio_, she must be awarded the palm for +being what Mark Tapley would call "jolly under creditable +circumstances." For ourselves, we frankly confess that we find quite +trouble enough in steering among the realities of creation, without +caring to venture far out among its possibilities. + + + + +RECENT AMERICAN PUBLICATIONS + +RECEIVED BY THE EDITORS OF THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY. + + +Cudjo's Cave. By J. T. Trowbridge, Author of "Neighbor Jackwood," etc. +Boston. J. E. Tilton & Co. 12mo. pp. 504. $1.50. + +Sadlier's Catholic Almanac and Ordo for the Year of our Lord 1864. With +Full Returns of the Various Dioceses in the United States and British +North America. And a List of the Archbishops, Bishops, and Priests in +Ireland. New York. D. & J. Sadlier & Co. 12mo. paper. pp. 330. 50 cts. + +The Natural History of Secession; or, Despotism and Democracy at +Necessary, Eternal, Exterminating War. By Thomas Shepard Goodwin, A. M. +New York. John Bradburn. 12mo. pp. 328. $1.25. + +Squadron Tactics under Steam. [By Authority of the Navy Department.] By +Foxhall A. Parker, Commander United States Navy. 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A Selection of Poetry. In Four Parts. By Mrs. +C. M. Kirkland. Second Series. Parts Third and Fourth. New York. Charles +Scribner. 16mo. pp. 360. $1.25. + +England's Liability for Indemnity: Remarks on the Letter of +"Historicus," dated November 4th, 1863; printed in the London "Times," +November 7th; and reprinted in the "Boston Daily Advertiser," November +25th. By Charles G. Loring. Boston. W. V. Spencer. 8vo. paper. pp. +viii., 46. 25 cts. + +Satan's Devices and the Believer's Victory. By Rev. William L. Parsons, +A. M. Boston. Gould & Lincoln. 12mo. pp. 312. $1.25. + +Hints to Riflemen. By H. W. S. Cleveland. New York. D. Appleton & Co. +12mo. pp. 260. $1.25. + +Illustrations of Universal Progress; A Series of Discussions. By Herbert +Spencer, Author of "The Principles of Psychology," etc. With a Notice of +Spencer's "New System of Philosophy." New York. D. Appleton & Co. 12mo. +pp. xxxi., 446. $1.75. + +The National Almanac and Annual Record for the Year 1864. Philadelphia. +G. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 13, No. 80, June, 1864 + +Author: Various + +Release Date: November 16, 2006 [EBook #19827] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY *** + + + + +Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Josephine Paolucci and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by Cornell University Digital Collections). + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<h4>THE</h4> + +<h1>ATLANTIC MONTHLY.</h1> + +<h2>A MAGAZINE OF LITERATURE, ART, AND POLITICS.</h2> + +<h3>VOL. XIII.—JUNE, 1864.—NO. LXXX.</h3> + +<p>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by <span class="smcap">Ticknor +and Fields</span>, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the +District of Massachusetts.</p> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> +<p> +<a href="#A_TALK_ABOUT_GUIDES"><b>A TALK ABOUT GUIDES.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_KALIF_OF_BALDACCA"><b>THE KALIF OF BALDACCA.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#LIFE_ON_THE_SEA_ISLANDS"><b>LIFE ON THE SEA ISLANDS.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#A_FAST-DAY_AT_FOXDEN"><b>A FAST-DAY AT FOXDEN.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#PROSPICE"><b>PROSPICE.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#WASHINGTON_IRVING"><b>WASHINGTON IRVING.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_RIM"><b>THE RIM.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_NEVA"><b>THE NEVA.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#ROBSON"><b>ROBSON.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_PARALLEL_ROADS_OF_GLEN_ROY_IN_SCOTLAND"><b>THE PARALLEL ROADS OF GLEN ROY, IN SCOTLAND.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#UNDER_THE_CLIFF"><b>UNDER THE CLIFF.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#SEVEN_WEEKS_IN_THE_GREAT_YO-SEMITE"><b>SEVEN WEEKS IN THE GREAT YO-SEMITE.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#HOUSE_AND_HOME_PAPERS"><b>HOUSE AND HOME PAPERS.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#SHAKSPEARE"><b>SHAKSPEARE.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#HOW_TO_USE_VICTORY"><b>HOW TO USE VICTORY.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#REVIEWS_AND_LITERARY_NOTICES"><b>REVIEWS AND LITERARY NOTICES.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#RECENT_AMERICAN_PUBLICATIONS"><b>RECENT AMERICAN PUBLICATIONS</b></a><br /> +</p> +<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p>Transcriber's note: Minor typos have been corrected. Footnotes have been +moved to the end of the article. Table of contents have been generated for the HTML version.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_TALK_ABOUT_GUIDES" id="A_TALK_ABOUT_GUIDES"></a>A TALK ABOUT GUIDES.</h2> + + +<p>Talk about guides! Let Independence, Self-Conceit, and Go-ahead +undervalue them, if they will; but I, Sola Fœmina, (for that is the +name I go by,) of Ignorance, (the place I hail from,) casting up my +unbalanced accounts, (with a view to settling,) find a large credit due +to this class of individuals, which (though I have not the means to +meet) I have no intention to repudiate.</p> + +<p>Now and then, to be sure, I, S. F., have been reminded in my journeyings +of poor dear E., whose lively spirit was so chafed by the exactions made +upon his purse and his temper at the hands of this imperturbable race, +that at last he turned, like a stag at bay, and vented all his wrath in +the face of a startled old woman by the abrupt and emphatic query, +"What'll you take to clear out?"</p> + +<p>Still, dogmatic and prosing as they sometimes proved, my experience on +the whole was favorable; and from the motherly old portress of the +English church at Honeybourne, who fed me with bread and butter under +her cottage-roof, and sent me away laden with garden-flowers and a +blessing, to faithful Michel, who held me over the blue fissures of the +glaciers that I might get a glimpse of their secret waterfalls, who +gathered violets for me on the margin of the icy sea, and, when I had +carelessly dropped them by the way, treasured up the faded things to +restore them to me at nightfall,—from the aged woman, with her "Good +bye till we meet in heaven," to the rough mountaineer, with his hearty +hand-pressure and God-speed at parting, I would not willingly lose one +link out of the chain of such fast friends which stretched along my way.</p> + +<p>There is Warwick Castle,—a written history, no doubt, to scholars, a +mine of wealth to antiquaries and architects; but how incomplete would +my associations be with the spot, were you banished from the picture, my +sturdy friend, fit type of the female retainers of the household of the +King-Maker, who, stationed within the ivied approach to the castle, +presided at the brazen porridge-pot, once holding food enough to satisfy +ten score of men, now empty, save for the volume of sound which stuns +the ear when you strike it with your ponderous iron bar! Can I ever +forget the scene of laughter and riot, when you installed me within the +capacious vessel, dubbed me "Countess Guy, of the Porridge-Pot," and, +the rest of my party having been induced to accept the hospitalities of +the place, and mount my triumphal car, declared your intention to light +a fire beneath and have the finest stew in all England? The castle is a +stern place, perhaps; but how can I ever think it grim, with such a +jolly old flatterer as you stationed at its portal?</p> + +<p>And here, in my blundering way, I have stumbled on the secret spring of +my whole subject; so I may as well make a merit of confession, and +acknowledge frankly that the trap in which these wary guides entangled +my affections was generally neither more nor less than a net of silken +flattery. Your good guide, your dear guide, your pet guide, whom +Neighbor So-and-so, going abroad, must look up immediately on his +arrival, this invaluable creature, depend upon it, is an arrant +flatterer. He does not go out of his way for you; he does not tell it +you to your face; but, somehow or other, (if he knows his vocation,) he +makes you believe, that, of all the travellers he ever escorted, (and he +has been a travellers' escort from his infancy,) you are the first, the +only one, in whose behalf duty became a privilege.</p> + +<p>Do you suppose I put faith in Michel, when, on my second Alpine +excursion, this companion of the previous day's peril placed himself in +close proximity to my mule, took the bridle with an air of satisfaction, +and whispered with an insinuating smile, "I go with <i>you</i> to-day; see, +there is another guide for Mademoiselle"? He was mistaken. It was my +young friend whom he was, on this occasion, destined to escort over the +mountain. He was as devoted to her as if she had been the apple of his +eye. Whether I followed next in the file, brought up the rear, or was +dashed over the precipice, I doubt if he looked behind him to discover. +Was I fool enough, then, to trust his professions? I acknowledge the +weakness. I was but a novice, he a practised courtier in the guise of a +mountaineer. To make a clean breast of it, I even suspect that his +self-gratulatory whisper is still ringing in my ear, for I find that +Mademoiselle and I are rivals in our devotion to Michel.</p> + +<p>And Ann Harris, of Honeybourne, widow, portress of the ancient +village-church, surrounded by villagers' graves, approached by four +foot-paths over four stiles, perfect model of all the churches in all +the novels of English literature,—was it partiality for me, ancient +matron, or an eye to a silver sixpence, which made you, and makes you +still, the heroine of my day of romance? At any rate, I shall never +cease to invoke a blessing on that immaculate railway-company which +decoyed me from London into the heart of England, and, with a coolness +unexampled in the new districts of Iowa, dropped me at the sweetest nook +under the sun, there to wait three hours for the train which should have +taken me at once to Stratford,—three golden hours, in which I might +bask like a bee in a Honeybourne beyond my hopes.</p> + +<p>Not that my Honeybourne was precisely the spot where the railway-train +left me standing deserted and alone,—alone save for a Stratford +furniture-dealer, who, unceremoniously set down in the midst of his new +stock of tables and chairs, and with nothing else in sight but a +platform, a shed, and me, looked at the last-mentioned object for +sympathy, while he cursed the departing train and swore the usual oath +of vengeance, namely, that he would never travel that road again.</p> + +<p><i>He</i> got red with passion and cursed the road; <i>I</i> stared round me and +kept cool. Was I more philosophical than he? No, but there was this +difference: he was bent on business, I on pleasure; he was in a hurry, I +could afford to wait.</p> + +<p>Three hours,—and only a platform, a shed, and an infuriated +furniture-dealer to keep me company! This was the Honeybourne station, +but not Honeybourne. I found a railway-official hard by, had my baggage +stowed in the shed, crossed the platform, looked at my watch to make +sure of the time, then struck out into the open country. Through shady +lanes, over stiles, across the fields, on I went, in the direction +pointed out to me by two laborers whom I met at starting. The sweet +white may smiled at me from the hedges; the great sober eyes of the +cattle at pasture reflected my sense of contentment; the nonchalant +English sheep showed no signs of disturbance at my approach (unlike the +American species, which invariably take to their heels); the children +set to watch them lifted their heads from the long grass and looked +lazily after me, never doubting my right to tread the well-worn +foot-path with which every green field beguiled me on. I came out in the +vegetable-garden of a rustic cottage, one of some dozen thatched-roofed +dwellings, which, with the church and simple parsonage, constituted +sweet Honeybourne. "Oh that it were the bourne from which no traveller +returns!" was the thought of my heart, as, with a dreamy sense of +longings fulfilled, I wandered through the miniature village, across it, +around it, beyond it, and back to it again, as a bee saturated with +sweets floats round the hive.</p> + +<p>And now to my queen-bee, Ann Harris, aforesaid!</p> + +<p>"All the way from Lunnon! Alone, and such a distance! Bless my heart!" +cried the primitive Ann, with hands and eyes uplifted. "Come in and rest +you, and have something to eat! I have bread and butter, sweet and good, +and will boil the kettle and make you a cup of tea, if you say so."</p> + +<p>I had already made the circuit of the church, strolled among the ancient +gravestones, crossed the moss-covered bridge, threaded the paths beneath +the hawthorn, had a vision of boundless beauty, drunk in the silence, +and dreamed out my dream of solitude, independence, and the joy of being +no one but myself knew where. Could I do better than accept this +invitation to enter the humble cottage, with the prospect of an +admittance also to an old woman's heart? Did I win the latter? or did I +only fancy it? Did the motherly creature believe me lost? or was her +astonishment only feigned? Was she really, despite her poverty, ready to +share her last crust with a stranger? or was the benignant glance which +gave me in my loneliness the sense of adoption merely an eye to +self-interest?</p> + +<p>Dear old soul! One of us, at least, was simple-hearted and true,—either +she in her innocent professions, or I in my silly credulity. I have +faith that it was she. At all events, I do so cherish the memory of her +kindness, that, so far from treasuring the notion of the silver +sixpence, I hereby pledge myself, that, if ever the reminiscence I am +penning should be worth half as much to me in gold as it is in memory, I +will send Ann Harris at least one shining guinea, as a token how +willingly I would go shares with her in something.</p> + +<p>And the guinea would not come amiss, for Ann was poor; her clay-floored +cottage boasted only its exquisite neatness, her furniture was of the +humblest, her dress the cheapest. She was too old for hard work; her +duties at the little church were light,—the profits, I fear, were +lighter; for that visitors to the remote sanctuary were rare her +reception of me was sufficient proof. As she guided me through the +church, I asked her if it was well attended. She shook her head sadly, +and, pointing in the direction of a neighboring village, answered,—</p> + +<p>"Most of 'em go to chapel, yonder,—the more's the pity."</p> + +<p>She told me that she had no provision for the coming winter, and feared +she must go to the Union. (It was not our own, then prosperous and +unbroken, Union, to which she dreaded emigrating.) She merely meant the +work-house; and as she spoke, her face wore a shadow that still clouds +my recollections of Honeybourne. I do not know if her fears were +realized,—if her cottage is forsaken,—if she dwells among paupers, or +sleeps in the village church-yard; but I cannot think of her as lonely +or poor or dead. Her saintly face told of blessed communion; I know that +she was rich in faith and hope; and were I assured that her spirit had +left the flesh, I should only picture her to myself standing erect at +heaven's doorway, welcoming strangers with the same serenity with which +she said to me at parting,—"I shall meet you <i>there</i>."</p> + +<p>She offered me a farewell gift of flowers from her garden. It was a +beautiful cottage-garden, and many of the flowers were brilliant and +even rare, giving proof of careful, if not scientific culture. Still I +hesitated. My hands were full of sweet may, red campion, and other +native field-blossoms, which had introduced themselves to me +anonymously. They were the children of the green sod which I had been +treading so lightly on my way to the village; and, in the quiet of my +ramble, they had seemed to me like whispers from Him who made them, and +with whom I had never felt so utterly alone. I could not bear to see +them displaced by Ann's garden-belles, tempting as the latter would have +been at any other moment. She saw my indifference to her offer. I knew +she saw it working in my face. I attempted to apologize for my +preference, but she did not understand me; so I blurted out my thought, +awkwardly enough, saying,—</p> + +<p>"Yours are beautiful; but God made these, you know,—and—and—I like +them best."</p> + +<p>She looked down upon me gravely, pityingly, smiling, too, with a +tenderness which was neither grave nor pitying. I have seen +long-visioned people look with just that expression at the eyes of the +short-sighted, on the latter's confessing their inability to detect an +object at no great distance.</p> + +<p>"<i>He made them all</i>," she said; and her words were an ascription of +praise.</p> + +<p>They come to me often now. They bid me look farther and see more. They +tell me how <i>mine</i> and <i>thine</i> have no place in this world of <i>His</i>. +False distinctions shrink away from the light of the old woman's clearer +faith; I see how the ablest workers are but instruments in higher +hands,—how science, culture, inspiration itself, are but gifts to be +laid on His altar.</p> + +<p>I need scarcely say that I at once found room for Ann's flowers in my +hand, as for her lesson in my heart. Some of the former are pressed and +laid away as a sacred memento, and something of the latter is treasured +up among good seed sown by the way-side.</p> + +<p>I would gladly have lingered longer in this little nook, into which I +seemed to have been drifted by chance; but my time was up,—I had a mile +or two to walk over the fields in the direction of the railway,—my +friends were to meet me at Stratford. Should I miss the train this time, +my philosophy might fail me as signally as that of the above-mentioned +furniture-dealer failed him.</p> + +<p>A few hours after I bade my old friend farewell, I was at my +destination. Millions have shared my experiences at the tomb of the +great poet. Everybody is familiar with William Shakspeare and +Stratford-on-Avon, but I hug the thought that nobody but I knows +anything about Ann Harris and Honeybourne.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>I have dwelt upon an occasion in which the humble office of a guide +resulted in companionship, friendship, instruction. A brief sojourn in +Alpine regions has furnished me with a similar reminiscence.</p> + +<p>We were setting forth for a day's ride across the Tête-Noire. Our party +consisted of five, and we had two guides. Our baggage, which was for the +most part light, was strapped on the backs of the mules behind the +riders. One article, however, a square box of considerable proportions, +proved refractory, and, veering from side to side, refused to maintain +the even balance which, owing to the rough nature of the bridle-path, +was essential to the safety of both mule and rider. We were obliged to +halt again and again, that the box might be restrapped, always with +doubtful success. Each time that we drew up in line for this purpose we +were overtaken by a Swiss youth, who had perceived our dilemma, and who +hoped, by following us up closely, to make a job out of it. There was +but a limited knowledge of French among us, (the language in which the +youth spoke,) still, by aid of his vehement gestures, he made us +understand that he was ready, for a consideration, to accompany us on +our toilsome journey, and carry the box on his back.</p> + +<p>"Eight francs, Monsieur,—I will do it for eight francs!" But the box +was righted, his services seemed superfluous, and we moved on, +regardless of his beseeching looks.</p> + +<p>A fresh delay soon ensued, the boy came panting up, and this time it was +"Seven francs,"—nay, as we rode away from him, he frantically shouted, +"Six!" His prospects seemed hopeless, but destiny and perseverance were +on his side,—the box gave another alarming lurch,—the heated and +almost discouraged youth made one last appeal,—</p> + +<p>"Four francs, Monsieur! I will do it for four francs!" and the day was +his.</p> + +<p>He was not a regular guide, appointed by Government and furnished with a +certificate, as is the law of the Alpine district for all who serve in +this responsible capacity. We had engaged him simply as a porter. Still, +the docile youth had no sooner strapped the box on his back than, seeing +that I was the only lady unprovided with an attendant, he drew my mule's +bridle through his arm, and quietly took me in charge.</p> + +<p>No matter how charming a travelling-party you belong to, the moment they +are all mounted and climbing a mountain, single file, you feel yourself +a unit in creation. Everybody has turned his back upon you, and you have +turned your back upon everybody. You are a solitary traveller. Are you +aghast at your own situation on the steep slope of a mule's back, with a +precipice above your head and your feet dangling over a gulf below? +There is no help for it. Imagine yourself a sack of meal, if you can, +and expect as little sympathy as would be accorded to that article. Are +you moved to a keen sense of the ridiculous, as a curve in the road +discloses the figures of your elongated party, unused to riding, and +rendered the more grotesque by their mountain-equipment? A laugh +unshared is no laugh at all, so you may as well smother it at once. Does +the scenery through which you are passing awaken emotions of sublimity? +It would be sacrilege to shout out your sentiments to the occupant of +the next mule in such tones as a watchman would employ to cry, "Fire!" +No,—if you are essentially a social creature, there is nothing for it +but to bottle up your sensibilities and await the opportunity for an +explosion when you reach your inn.</p> + +<p>Something like this result occurred, I remember, on the evening of that +very day, when Mademoiselle, who, under the charge of Michel, led the +van, met me at the hotel at Martigny, at which place she had of course +arrived a little in advance. We were not usually more demonstrative in +our manners than is customary among New-England women, but the moment I +could alight we rushed into each other's embrace, regardless of a crowd +of astonished porters and guides, mutually insisting, by way of apology, +that it seemed as if we had not met for a year.</p> + +<p>Having dwelt upon this peculiar isolation experienced by the Alpine +traveller, it may be conjectured, that, when the boy, Auguste, drew my +bridle through his arm, I felt very much as Robinson Crusoe did when he +was joined by his man Friday. Auguste and I soon became friends. He was +a large, round-faced, mild-eyed youth, who, the instant the excitement +of securing his employment was past, subsided into a soft, even pace +like that of a dog. Now and then, too, he looked up at the mule and me, +precisely as a dog, accompanying his master, looks up to see if all is +right.</p> + +<p>I did not talk to him at first. His mere presence was satisfaction +enough. After a while we grew more sociable. He spoke a French <i>patois</i>. +So did I. His was peculiar to the province,—mine wholly original,—but +both answered the purpose of communication, and so were satisfactory. +He had the essential characteristic of his profession,—he was one of +the oily-tongued tribe, simple as he seemed, and I the willing victim; +for I am confident that I straightened in my saddle, and talked more +glibly than ever in the language peculiar to myself, on the strength of +his <i>naïve</i> surprise at learning the place of my nativity, and his +polite exclamation, "<i>De l'Amèrique! O! j'avais cru que vous étiez de +Paris</i>!"</p> + +<p>The conversation you hold with your guide has this advantage,—you can +suspend it at will. There are miles of travel, in crossing the +Tête-Noire, when, if your most sympathizing friend walked beside you, +the thought of both hearts would be, "Let all the earth keep silence!" +and in the absence of such unspoken sympathy, the next best thing is the +innocent gravity of an attendant hired for so many francs a day, and not +presuming to speak unless spoken to.</p> + +<p>But when these sublimer passages are passed, when the path skirts the +edge of the valley, when the giant mountains have retired a little and +you slacken the tense cord of emotion which for a while has held you +spell-bound, it is a relief to loosen the tongue also, and reassure +yourself with the sound of the human voice. Thus Auguste and I had +frequent dialogues. He told me something of his past life, which I do +not remember very well. I think its chief incident was his having been +drafted for the army, and having served his term. Of his future, +however, he spoke with an earnestness which has left its impression on +my mind. He said that the next winter he meant to go to Paris and seek a +service; and his perseverance in wringing employment out of us inclines +me to think that he fulfilled his intention. Savoy, to which province he +belonged, had just been annexed to France. A party of guides from +Chamouni had the day before succeeded, with difficulty, in planting the +imperial flag on the summit of Mont Blanc. Was it this which had +awakened the ambition of the young Savoyard to share the spoils of the +empire of which he had so suddenly become a member? Perhaps (I never +thought of it before, but perhaps) he was already seeking means for his +journey to the capital. Perhaps the price of his hard-won service was to +be the nucleus of his savings. Have I, then, aided your purpose, +Auguste? helped to transform you from a simple mountain-lad to a mere +link in a chain of street-sweepers, an artful official of a third-rate +billiard-saloon, or a roystering cab-driver with his perpetual entreaty +for an extra fee in the form of "<i>Quelque chose à boire</i>"? My mind +shrinks from the possibility, for I cannot bear to think of him as other +than he then seemed,—a child of Nature and of the truth.</p> + +<p>In the course of our day's journey we drew near a little village. I had +been chatting with Auguste and felt in a loquacious mood, but paused as +I found myself passing through the village,—in other words, sneaking +round the corner of one shabby hut, and straight through the farm-yard +of the next, and close by the windows of a third,—the three, and a few +other stray buildings, constituting the hamlet. As it seemed an +impertinence to follow such an intrusive, inquisitive little road at +all, we could, of course, do no less than maintain a dumb propriety in +the presence of the children and kitchen-utensils, but, as we left them +behind and struck across an open field, my eye fell on one of those +way-side shrines common in all Roman-Catholic districts. It was a +miniature arch of plastered or whitewashed stone, and contained, as +nearly as I could judge from the glimpse I had in passing, two coarse +dolls, intended to represent the Virgin and Child.</p> + +<p>"What is that, Auguste?" I asked, with feigned ignorance.</p> + +<p>"A place of worship," he answered; "the people come there to pray."</p> + +<p>"But what do they come <i>there</i> for?" I continued.</p> + +<p>"<i>God is there</i>," he answered, with emphasis, pointing at the same time +to the gayly dressed puppets.</p> + +<p>"No, He is not," I replied.</p> + +<p>He turned round and looked at me defiantly. His mild face became that +of a fanatic, and I actually quailed beneath his angry eye, as he +retorted,—</p> + +<p>"He <i>is</i> there."</p> + +<p>My mistake flashed upon me, too, at the instant, and I hastened to +explain myself in the simplest manner my poor French would allow, +saying,—</p> + +<p><i>"Oui, Auguste, Il est là, c'est vrai; mais Il est là aussi!"</i>—and I +pointed to the snow-capped mountains on my right,—<i>"et là!"</i>—and I +waved my hand towards the deeply shadowed heights on the opposite side +of the valley.</p> + +<p>He caught my meaning as by an inspiration. His fierce frown melted +instantly into an intelligent smile.</p> + +<p><i>"Il est partout!"</i> exclaimed the youth, with enthusiasm, his childlike, +eager eyes seeking a response in mine.</p> + +<p>I nodded in affirmation of the truth. It was enough. Catholic and +Protestant had met on common ground,—we understood each other,—we were +reconciled.</p> + +<p>Has he carried his large faith with him into the great metropolis? and +have I kept mine unshaken in spite of the storm that is raging in my +native land? Armed in his simplicity only, he has gone to meet the gusts +of temptation; and I have lived to see the Republic, which I believed +inviolable as Mother Earth herself, tremble and totter, as one after +another of her rotten pillars has fallen away. God grant that we may +both, in this day of our peril, be able, as then, to realize that "<i>Il +est partout</i>"!</p> + +<p>During my short Alpine journey I held the office of paymaster for our +party, my election being due not so much to proficiency in the queer +dialect above alluded to as to courage in the use of it. It is always a +pleasant office to disburse the funds, but was never more so than when, +late at night, Michel and Auguste came to the hotel at Martigny to +receive the reward of their day's toil. Michel had his full dues in +money, and plenty of praise to boot; Auguste, evidently much to his +surprise, a trifle more than his minimum price. Each of them then +grasped my hand in his horny palm,—an unexpected salutation, but not a +harsh one, for each hand had a heart in it, or I believed it had, which +was all the same to me. They made the customary promise not to forget +me, but credulity must stop somewhere, and at this point I must confess +my easy faith gave out, and left me skeptical.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>I have given the preference in order of narrative, as well as in memory, +to guides who proved competent, willing, and true, who, if they seasoned +the intercourse between us with a little encouragement to my +self-esteem, had nothing in them obsequious or timeserving, and who set +me a wholesome example of clear convictions and firmness in the +maintenance of right. But not only are the virtues of the race whom I +have chosen for a theme subjects of congratulation; even the +uncertainties and misfits of these frequently rusty keys to the past +excite a mirth that lightens the toil with which one rummages through +the corridors of time. It would be treason to tell the name of that +antique university-chapel where a certain wooden-headed verger was +betrayed into the absurdest error; it would be personal to give the name +of the waggish friend who made him his innocent butt; but the facts and +the joke claim no disguise.</p> + +<p>The solemn British beadle had been rehearsing the history of numerous +sarcophagi and monuments, dwelling with mingled pathos and indignation +upon the injuries which the chapel, its railings, and its statues had +sustained at the hands of that arch-destroyer and his soldiery who, in +their zeal for the new Commonwealth, trampled brutally upon the records +of past grandeur and royalty.</p> + +<p>"He stabled his 'osses 'ere! yes, 'ere,—in this wery chapel! ugh!" was +the wrathful exclamation of our guide; and as he pointed towards the +tablets without corners and the effigies lacking noses or feet, there +was a low muttering in his throat and a look at us intended to excite +sympathetic ire on our part.</p> + +<p>One only of our party responded to the look.</p> + +<p>"Let me see,—Cromwell was a terrible Catholic, wasn't he?" gravely +inquired our fellow-traveller, as if in this way, and this way only, +could the sacrilege be accounted for,—one blue eye, as he spoke, full +of sage earnestness, the other twinkling with fun.</p> + +<p>The stolid face of our guide now became a study. He had no instructions +for such an emergency as this. The question had made war with his poor +wits. For a moment they staggered, felt themselves defeated, and were +about to surrender. But, resolute Briton that he was, the old man soon +rallied his forces. True servant both of Church and State, he saw that +there was no consistent course for him but to consign the enemy of +royalty and the contemner of sacred monuments to the abominable Scarlet +Lady. He gave one appealing look at his interrogator, but the side of +the face turned towards him was immovable. It gave no positive +discouragement to an affirmative reply; it even feigned ignorance. +Seeking enlightenment, and taking heart of faith, the verger assented in +the words, "Y-e-e-e-s,—I be-e-e-lieve so!" Then, his courage rising as +he felt himself committed to the fact, he continued, with emphasis and a +dictatorial nodding of the head, "Yes,—yes, he <i>was</i>."</p> + +<p>Many and laughable are the instances of such perplexity and mistake +among the aged pieces of mechanism who have for years been sounding the +same tune to generations of unquestioning ears, and who, not having an +extra note in their gamut, can by no means bear to be played upon by +strange hands. Age has its exemptions and immunities, however; might +makes right, and one who has long been a dictator comes to be deemed an +infallible authority. So they whine on, and are oftener believed than +otherwise. As they constitute a class, and those whom I have to do with +are chiefly the exceptions, I will forbear to dwell on stereotyped +specimens, and turn to one so unlike the generality of her tribe, so +utterly lawless, so completely at variance with all her surroundings, +that I must beg leave to introduce her precisely as she introduced +herself.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>There is an old place in England (there may be many such, but I know +there is one) which is consecrated to imagination, romance, and memory. +Abandoned by its owners as a residence, it is nevertheless maintained in +sufficient repair to prevent its walls from crumbling or its beauty of +outline from being marred, and stands forth a living epic, written in +stone and oak, and meriting a place among the classics of the land.</p> + +<p>The favorite of tourists, artists, and antiquaries, it can well dispense +with anything like an accurate description from a traveller who went +thither, not to study, but to muse; so, putting in a plea, beforehand, +for possible failures in observation and memory, I propose to myself +nothing more than a re-indulgence of the reverie which took possession +of me on my visit to Haddon Hall.</p> + +<p>We had spent the middle hours of the day at Chatsworth, that palace and +museum of modern art, and, with senses bewildered and eyes dazzled by +the magnificence of a ducal residence unparalleled, perhaps, in the +world for its wealth and culture, we had set off, in the latter part of +the afternoon, to view its antipodes. The circumstances and the hour +were not inappropriate. Sated with the most perfect display of luxury +and taste which the present age can boast, and somewhat weary with the +toil of sight-seeing, a six-mile drive, the gradual decline of the +summer day, the shadows gathering over the landscape, all acted as a +gentle narcotic, and were a fit preparative for our approach to that +old, deserted homestead, the first glimpse of which set my fancy +roaming, and carried me away into a world of dreams.</p> + +<p>Hitherto I had been the contented occupant of an old yellow coach, and +had been satisfied with the pace of two jaded post-horses. But, as I +crossed the drawbridge and climbed the steep hill which led to the +principal gateway, I found myself mounted on rapid wings, and whirling +through the centuries. Not that I was rushing on in advance of the age. +No,—the wings flapped backwards, they careered disdainfully over and +beyond the region of reality; as we flew, the present became merged in +the past, the actual gave place to the ideal.</p> + +<p>I am approaching a feudal fortress. The deep moat, the turreted walls, +the old gray towers, the lattice of my lady's bower, the sentry pacing +the battlements, the warder stationed at the gate, the severe exterior +of the grim pile, the smoking hospitality that reigns within,—I +recognize them all. Much that I have taken on faith from my childhood +has already been realized since I touched English shores,—why not this? +I climb the steep slope leading to the principal entrance, and knock at +the gate. Hark! is not that the sound of an answering horn? Is not that +distant rattling the clash of armor on the stones? Do I not hear the +voice of the stout baron mustering his retainers to bid me welcome? If +so, they are a long time about it,—for I have knocked once, twice, +three times, and there is no admittance. It is a severe process, too; +for, though the original gate, which may have been an iron portcullis +for aught I know, has given place to rough boards, the latter are not +particularly tender of my knuckles, and, though romance is romance, pain +is a fact. So I fold my airy wings for the present, and look about me +for a big stone to pound with. It is of no use. The old castle is deaf +and dumb. It neither hears nor answers. I creep along the edge of a +steep bank, pry round a corner of the building, gaze up at the high +Gothic windows, but see nothing like a practicable approach, and turn +back, discouraged. We take counsel together, I and my party, and at +length condescend to the belief that our best hope of obtaining an +entrance lies in a modern farm-house, at the foot of the eminence on +which the fortress stands. The farm-house is beyond the hail of our +voices, but our coachman, who is stationed there with his post-chaise, a +witness of our embarrassment, makes an encouraging sign. That the +farm-house bears some relation to the manor-house is suggested also by +the fact that its garden boasts a yew-tree cut into the form of a +peacock, and the book of heraldry says that the crest of the noble Earls +of Rutland, who occupied the hall for centuries, includes, among its +other belongings, "a peacock, in pride, proper."</p> + +<p>At last, just as our impatience had reached the verge of indignation, a +little figure emerged from the shadow of the farm-house, and sauntered +towards us. She was a pretty child, a true daughter of the Saxon race, +fair-haired, blue-eyed, and sunny-complexioned. She was the pink of +neatness, too, and it was evident that the time we had spent in waiting +had been passed by her at her toilet, for the folds were still fresh in +her snowy apron, and her golden hair glistened smoothly within the bars +of a net,—that unfailing net, sure emblem of British female +nationality. Her dainty little hat was trimmed with white ribbons, which +streamed behind her in the breeze, and, altogether, she was as complete +a picture as one would wish to see of youth, health, and +self-complacency.</p> + +<p>The nonchalance with which she approached us was a thing I have never +seen equalled. The independence of American children is proverbial; but +democratic institutions never produced anything more saucily +self-reliant than this little Briton. Without looking at us, or deigning +any apology for the great gate,—which, it seems, is a mere barricade, +not made to be opened,—she unlocked a side-postern, a rude door, +consisting of two or three rough boards, and made a motion for us to +enter. As we trod the time-worn pavement of the outer court, and gained +an open quadrangle round which various apartments were grouped, +imagination once more took possession of me, and I found myself peopling +the place with its original inmates.</p> + +<p>"Oh, how old and story-like!" I exclaimed to my companions. "Can you not +imagine knights on horseback prancing over these stones, and alighting +at the great hall-door beyond?"</p> + +<p>"Horses never came up here!" was the interruption which my suggestion +met from our practical little guide. "Horses couldn't climb those +stairs," she added, somewhat scornfully; and I then observed that I had +unconsciously ascended a rough, angular stairway, passable only to +foot-passengers.</p> + +<p>Knights on foot, then, my fancy at once substituted; and as the child, +now commencing her duties as show-woman, pointed out the servants' +offices, it was no difficult matter to picture the baron's retainers +lazily grouped around the stone walls of the low cells, for such the +apartments were, polishing their master's armor, or bousing over jugs of +ale, while handsome pages loitered about the court-yard, waiting the +summons of their lord, or the sound of their lady's silver whistle. +Fancy was an indispensable attendant in making the circuit of the +apartments, which surrounded at least three sides of this outer +quadrangle. Without her aid, they were simply remarkable for their +similarity, their vacancy, their unfitness for any modern purpose save +that of sheep-pens or lumber-rooms. Destitute of windows, so that the +sun and air found admittance only through the doorway, without +fireplaces, boarded floors, or plastered walls, they presented simply so +many square feet of space walled in by stone and mortar. But Fancy had +the power to enliven, furnish, people them. She suggested that their +very number was an indication of sociability, excitement, noise, and +mirth. Here, as in all feudal dwellings, the vast disproportion between +the space allotted to the dependents and that reserved for the lord of +the manor pointed to the time when each castle was a walled city, each +baronial hall the home of a crowd of petty retainers. In that long-ago, +what multitudes of voices had stirred the silence of the court-yard! The +bare walls of the apartments then were hung with breast-plate, spear, +and cross-bow,—trophies of war and the chase furnished decorations +suited to the taste of the occupants, and the hides of slaughtered +beasts carpeted the cold floor. Stirring tales of love and warfare +gathered little knots of listeners; wandering minstrels sought +hospitality, and repaid it in songs and rhymes; the beef and the bowl +went round; my lord's jester made his privileged way into every circle +in turn, and cracked his jokes at everybody's expense; and pretty Bess, +my lady's maid, peeped in at the open door, just in time to join in the +laugh against her lover.</p> + +<p>But Fancy only whispered, and another little attendant, whose name was +Fact, spoke out, and interrupted her.</p> + +<p>"Would you like to see the family-plate?" asked our guide, with the air +of one who felt she had really nothing worth showing, but was bound to +fulfil her task; and, entering one of the stone-walled apartments, she +pointed out a few enormous pewter platters, much dimmed by time and +neglect, leaning against the wall.</p> + +<p>What visions of Christmas feasts and wassails these relics might have +awakened in me, had I been left to gaze on them undisturbed, it is +impossible to say; but my mind was not permitted to follow its own bent.</p> + +<p>"There's nicer ones down at the house, all brightened up," said the +child, with simplicity, and looking disdain at the heirlooms she was +displaying.</p> + +<p>The estimate put by the little girl upon the comparative value of old +pewter dishes was suggestive. Whether the farm-house had robbed the +castle, or the castle the farm-house, became at once an open question, +and romance died in doubt.</p> + +<p>There could be no doubt, however, as to the genuineness of the rude old +dining-hall to which we were conducted next. The clumsy oaken table +still occupied the raised end of the apartment, where the baron feasted +his principal guests. The carved and panelled gallery whence his +minstrels cheered the banquet still stood firm on its massive pillars, +and the great stags'-antlers which surmounted it told of his skill as a +sportsman. What giant logs might once have burned in the wide +fireplaces, what sounds of revelry have gone up to the bare rafters! Our +guide's tongue went glibly as she pointed out these familiar objects, +and in the kitchen, buttery, and wine-vault, which were situated +conveniently near to the dining-hall, she seemed equally at home. It was +easy to recognize in the great stone chimneys, with their heavy hooks +and cross-bars, symptoms of banquets for which bullocks were roasted +whole and sheep and calves slain by the dozen; but we needed her +practised lips to suggest the uses of the huge stone chopping-blocks, +the deeply sunk troughs, the narrow gutters that crossed the stone +pavement, all illustrative of the primitive days when butcher and cook +wrought simultaneously, and this contracted cellar served at once for +slaughter-house and kitchen. Her little airy figure was in strange +contrast with these gloomy passages, these stones that had reeked with +blood and smoke. She glided before us into the mysterious depths of the +storehouse and ale-vault, as the new moon glides among damp, black +clouds; as she directed our attention to the oaken cupboards for bread +and cheese, the stone benches that once supported long rows of casks, +the little wicket in the doorway, through which the butler doled out +provisions to a waiting crowd of poor, she might well have been likened +to a freshly trimmed lamp, lighting up the dark, mysterious past.</p> + +<p>Freshly trimmed she unquestionably was, and by careful hands, but not a +voluntary light; for, the moment her explanations were finished, or our +curiosity satisfied, she sank into an indifference of speech and +attitude which proved her distaste to a place and a task utterly foreign +to her nature. Evidently, the hall which we had come so far to see, and +were so eager to explore, was at once the most familiar object of her +life and her most utter aversion. She had been drilled into a mechanical +knowledge of its history, but the place itself was to her what an old +grammar or spelling-book is to the unwilling pupil,—a thing to be +learned by rote, to be abused, contemned, escaped from. As we finished +our exploration of the lower floor, she probably breathed a sigh of +relief, feeling that the first chapter of her task was concluded.</p> + +<p>But a second and more difficult was yet to follow,—for we now ascended +a staircase of uncemented blocks of stone, crossed a passage, and found +ourselves in a long gallery or hall, the finest and best-preserved room +in the castle, the state-apartment and ball-room of the lords of the +manor. Our admiration at once broke forth in words of surprise and +delight. The architecture of this room was of much more recent date than +that portion of the building which we had already visited. It was +Elizabethan in its style, and one of the finest specimens of the period. +It was floored and wainscoted with oak; its frieze richly carved and +adorned with boars' heads, thistles, and roses; its ceiling, also of +oak, beautifully panelled and ornamented. There was a great square +recess in the middle of the gallery, and along one side of it a row of +bow-windows, through whose diamond panes a fine view was afforded of the +quaint old garden and balconies below. Here, doubtless, knights and +dames of the olden time had danced, coquetted, quarrelled, and been +reconciled. Within those deep embrasures courtiers in ruffs and plumes +had sued for ladies' favors, and plotted deep intrigues of state. What +stories these walls could tell, had they but tongues to speak! What +dreams did their very silence conjure up!</p> + +<p>Led by a more erratic spirit than that even of our child-guide, I am +afraid I lent an inattentive ear to her accurate statement of the +length, breadth, and height of the gallery in which we stood, the +precise date of its erection, the noble owners of the various +coats-of-arms carved above the doorway; for I remember only that she +seemed confident and well-informed, and recited her lesson faithfully +so long as she was suffered to follow the beaten track. How impossible +it was to extract anything beyond that from her we soon had proof.</p> + +<p>She ushered us next into my lord's parlor, which nearly adjoined the +gallery. This room was hung with arras, retained a few articles of +ancient furniture, had one or two pictures hanging on its walls, and +presented, altogether, a more habitable look than any other portion of +the castle. Our little maid had got on well with her description of this +room, had pointed out the portrait of Prince Arthur, once a resident at +the hall, had introduced that of Will Somers, my lord's jester, as +glibly as if Will were a playmate of her own, had deciphered for us the +excellent moral precept carved in old English beneath the royal arms, +"Drede God and honour the King," and was proceeding rapidly with an +array of measurements and dates, when I unluckily interrupted her,—I +think it was to ask some question about the tapestry. She looked at me +reproachfully, indignantly,—just as a child reciting the +multiplication-table before the School-Committee would look, if tripped +up between the numbers, or as a boy, taken advantage of in play, might +cry, "No fair!" She did not condescend to answer me, perhaps she could +not, but paused a moment, reflected, went deliberately back in her +recital, repeated the last few dates and phrases by way of gaining an +impetus, and then went on without faltering to the end of her prescribed +narration.</p> + +<p>Poor child! She had my sympathy, and has still. What a grudge she must +owe us tourists, even the tamest and most submissive of us, for whom she +is thus compelled to tax her unwilling memory!</p> + +<p>But if her spirits were damped, her good-humor threatened, it was for a +minute only. Upon completing our rapid survey of my lord's parlor, and +looking round for the guide who should conduct us farther, she had +become invisible. So we moved on without her, and commenced exploring a +narrow passage with a certain sense of bewilderment at its loneliness, +and the doubt whither it might lead, when, suddenly, we were startled by +a merry laugh, which seemed to ring through the air directly above our +heads. Was it a mocking spirit that haunted the place? or one of the old +figures on the tapestry, started into life? We looked up, and there, on +a rough platform of pine boards, projecting from the wall, stood our +Fenella. She was leaning over the shoulder of an artist-boy, who, seated +at his easel, was copying one of the Gorgon-heads that stood out on the +faded tapestry. She had dismissed us wholly from her thoughts, and, +giving play to her native fun and coquetry, was taunting the youth with +the slowness of his labors and the little progress he had made since she +last inspected his work. No wonder that she laughed at the taste of the +boy or his employer. Graver heads than hers might question the motive +which had set the painter such a model. Imagination suggested that some +elfin godmother must have prescribed the task as a condition of her +future favor. At all events, the malicious sprite now acting as overseer +felt a sense of triumph in this captive boy, perched against the wall, +and condemned, like herself, to reproduce the past and bring out in +fresh colors the staring eyes and mummied cheeks which would otherwise +soon be lost to memory. She certainly made the most of her opportunity +to taunt and tease him, for there was time for a laugh and a word of +raillery only, to which he seemed too shamefaced to respond, before she +was at our side again, gravely announcing, "My lady's chamber!"—and as +we looked around the apartment, whose furniture and decorations imparted +to it a superior air of neatness and refinement to that observable +elsewhere, she pointed out to us a private doorway, conducting to a +flight of steps, and affording an exit by which "my lady" had easy +access to the court-yard, and thence to the chapel where she performed +her devotions.</p> + +<p>"And what are the rooms opposite?" we asked, pointing to a long row of +windows on the second floor, on the opposite side of the quadrangle to +that of which we had now completed the inspection.</p> + +<p>"Those rooms are never shown," was the mysterious answer.</p> + +<p>"But you will show them to <i>us</i>" (spoken coaxingly).</p> + +<p>She shook her head, and sealed her lips, with an expression of +determination.</p> + +<p>"What is in them?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, nothing in particular."</p> + +<p>"Then we might see them."</p> + +<p>No encouragement, but, on the contrary, a resolute negative.</p> + +<p>A bribe was held out,—for, by this time, the child's air of mystery and +reserve had suggested a closet like that of Bluebeard, a chamber of +torture, or, at least, the proofs of some family-secret.</p> + +<p>We might as well have offered a two-shilling bribe to the Iron Duke +himself. The miniature castle-keeper was so firm and so non-committal +that she disarmed us of all our ingenuity, defeated all our tactics, and +we gave up the point. I have since learned that this quarter of the +mansion consists of a labyrinth of rooms, shut up because devoid of +interest, and containing only some old lumber. To have conducted us +through them would have been to disobey orders, and, worse still, +establish a precedent, from which the child might well shrink. It would +have doubled her arduous round of duty. It was policy, no less than +loyalty, which had inspired her.</p> + +<p>So, too, when we came to inspect the chapel. She mounted an old oak +chest in the rear of the little sanctuary, just beneath the solitary +window, whose quaint patterns in stained glass pointed to centuries long +past. Seated comfortably on this elevation, she rehearsed the history +and described the architecture of the most primitive place of worship I +ever saw,—or, if she left her post to point out some minuter detail, +she returned to it as jealously as a watch-dog to some spot which he is +specially appointed to guard. When our curiosity was otherwise +satisfied,—when we had even ascended to the rude confessional, which +was a mere excavation in the soft stone of the wall,—when we had put +our hands in the hollow, not unlike a swallow's nest in a mud-bank, once +the receptacle for holy water,—when we had descended the stony pathway, +for it was so worn as scarcely to merit the name of staircase,—when, +standing once more on the chapel-pavement, with minds excited by the +thought of those monkish days when priestcraft ruled the land,—our eyes +naturally fell on the old oak chest. What further revelation might not +this disclose! What sacred relics, what curious church-plate, what +vellum manuscript, might not be hidden beneath this heavy lid! Would she +rise and let us see?</p> + +<p>No,—she maintained her seat and her reserve with as much rigidity as on +the former occasion. Unconvinced by this experience, our imaginations +still ran riot. They shadowed forth every possible beauty and horror +which such a giant chest might contain. The story even of "The Bride of +the Mistletoe-Bough" might be verified, if we could but get a peep. At +last we prevailed. The child was persuaded to dismount, we lifted the +cover, and the chest was empty,—literally empty.</p> + +<p>Once more the plain fact of the present had swept away the cobwebs of +the past, the real had banished the ideal. While the child of to-day +sought only a comfortable rest from weariness, we had been seeking +myths. She looked on as indignant as a dethroned queen. We turned away a +little mortified, and a good deal disappointed.</p> + +<p>But the Fenella of the castle was not so very tired, after all. True, +she was tired of the old manor-house, tired of us, tired of her own dull +routine of duty; but there was a well-spring of freshness in her yet. +She moved languidly, to be sure, as she now led the way to the tower, +the only portion of the castle yet unvisited. Following her, we +ascended, first, to a bare upper room, a sort of anteroom, from which +the ascent to the tower commenced. It presented a solid inclosure of +stone, except on the western side, where it was dimly lighted through +one or two slits in the masonry. Turning my eyes in this direction, I +saw our little guide leaning against the stone framework of one of these +chinks in the wall. The beams of western sunlight came slanting in at +precisely the angle of her figure as she leaned back in infantile +repose; her white ribbons, her snowy apron, her golden hair caught and +held the sunshine, and the ray of light which relieved the gloom of the +gray old vault seemed to emanate from the child.</p> + +<p>One of our party addressed some question to her regarding the probable +design of the empty room in which we stood; but there was no +answer,—not even a responsive glance. Her eyes were fixed upon the +stone roof. She looked spell-bound. Before we could follow the direction +of her steady gaze, we were startled by the flapping of wings overhead, +and, still more, by the sudden rushing forward of the child with a loud +cry of "Shoo! shoo!" and with her hands stretched eagerly into the air. +Our presence had disturbed a swallow, which had found its way in through +one of the slits, and, perhaps, built a nest in some crevice of the +wall. The girl's languor was instantaneously dispelled by the discovery +and the excitement of pursuit. Here, now, was congenial sport. Hopeless +as was the attempt to catch the bird, the joy of frightening it was +sure; and our guide sprang wildly from side to side of the building, +uttering exciting exclamations, and making vain passes at the little +creature, which flew round high above her head, now and then settling in +some secure "coigne of vantage." In these intervals we endeavored to +catch the attention of the mischievous fowler, but her task had ended +with this tower-room, she had done with us, she had found an unexpected +source of sport, and was not to be deterred from an enjoyment which she +probably thought well-earned. With one eye following the least motion of +the bird, she informed us, at last, in reply to repeated inquiries, that +there was nothing to be told about the room we were in,—that it merely +led to the tower,—we could go up into the tower, if we wished.</p> + +<p>She must go with us and show us the way.</p> + +<p>"No," was the cool reply. She never went into the tower; she never went +any farther than this.</p> + +<p>Glancing at the dilapidated state of the stairs leading to the +successive stones of the tower, we were almost tempted to believe that +her instinct of self-preservation had reached its climax here,—that we +might break our necks, if we liked,—she preferred not to run the risk. +Resolved to satisfy our suspicions, we pressed the point, and, after +many inquiries and waiting a considerable time upon the motions of the +child and her new plaything, we got the brief and somewhat scornful +explanation,—</p> + +<p>"What if some other party should come while I was away?"</p> + +<p>"We part here, then?"</p> + +<p>She nodded in assent, received the fee for her services without +acknowledgment, and saw us depart on our breakneck expedition with an +indifference equalled only by the nonchalance with which she had +admitted us on our arrival. The moment our backs were turned, she +resumed her play.</p> + +<p>After exploring the successive stories of the tower in safety, we +descended by way of the anteroom, but the bird and its pursuer had both +of them flown. We passed through a door she had previously pointed out, +and gained the garden as surreptitiously as did Dorothy Vernon, of old, +when, according to the tradition, she escaped through this same doorway +on the night of her sister's nuptials, and eloped with her lover, Mr. +(afterwards Sir John) Manners, who had long been haunting the +neighboring forest as an outlaw. We strolled through the ancient garden, +all ivied and moss-grown, admired the stone balustrade, which, +time-stained and mouldy, is still the student's favorite bit of +architecture, and at last made our way back to the farm-house,—I am +sure I do not remember how, for we were as deficient in a guide as on +our first attempt at entrance. Whether another party arrived while we +were in the tower, and were engrossing her attention,—whether she was +engaged in the more agreeable office of coquetting with the young +artist, or was still chasing the swallow from room to room of the +manor-house, I do not know. We saw her no more. She had barely +condescended to let us in, and now left us to find our way out as we +could.</p> + +<p>She cared nothing at all for us. All the interest we had manifested in +her (and it was considerable) had failed to awaken any emotion. We were +a stereotyped feature of the old hall; and the old hall, though she had +sprung from its root, and her life had been nourished by its strength, +was no part of herself,—was her antipathy. Still I never think of the +mansion, with all the romantic associations which cluster around it, but +the image of this child comes to break my reverie, as she did on the day +when it was first indulged.</p> + +<p>So we go to visit some royal oak, and bring away, as a memento, the +daisy which blooms at its foot; so we stand, as the reward of toil and +fatigue, upon an Alpine glacier, and the trophy and pledge of our visit +are the forget-me-not that grew on its margin. Thus youth and beauty +ever press on the footsteps of old age, and youth and beauty bear away +the palm.</p> + +<p>My faith in legendary lore is confirmed, when I call to mind the Gothic +fortress, with its strong defences against the enemy, its rude +suggestions of centuries of hospitality, its tower-lattices, whence +generation after generation of high-born maids waved signals to knightly +lovers, its stairways, worn slippery with the tread of heavy-mailed +warriors, its chapel-vault, where chivalrous lord and noble dame have +turned to dust. But there is a faith more precious than the faith in old +song and legend; and the golden-haired child, who flourishes so fresh +and fair amidst all this ruin and decay, stands forth to my mind as an +emblem of that power which renovates earth and defies time. Had she been +a pattern child, had her instructors (whoever they were) succeeded in +moulding her into a mere machine, she might not so vividly have roused +my interest; but there was something in her saucy independence, her +wayward freaks, her coquettish airs, her fiery chase after the swallow, +which—breaking in, as they did, upon the docility with which she +otherwise went through her round of duty—revivified the desolation of +the old hall with a sudden outburst of humanity. Everywhere else the +fountain of life seemed to have died out, but here it gushed forth a +living stream.</p> + +<p>We gaze down the centuries and see in them ignorance, error, warning, +and ruin at last. What hope for the race, then, if this were all? But it +is not all. The child's foot treading lightly over the graves is the +type of the <i>time-is</i> triumphing over the <i>time-was</i>. Full of faults and +imperfections, she is still the daughter of Hope and Opportunity. She +has the past for her teacher, and the door of knowledge, repentance, and +faith stands open before her. Thus childhood is the rainbow of God's +providence, and the brightest feature of His covenant with men.</p> + +<p>Silence, desolation, and decay have set their seal upon old Haddon Hall, +but chance has set a child over them all, and the lesson her simple +presence teaches is worth more to me than all the Idyls of the King.</p> + +<p>And thus it is that I treasure up the memory of her among my catalogue +of guides; and so she did more for me than she promised, when she +undertook to lend me her light through the old Hall.</p> + +<p>If there are any who can live without thus borrowing, then let them +disparage guides. For the rest, the best guide is Humility. We have all +so many dark paths to tread from the cradle to the grave, that we need +to lay hold on all the helps we can. Groping blindly down the avenues +of Time, who is there that does not long to grasp some friendly hand, or +follow in the track of some traveller familiar with the way?</p> + +<p>For me, Experience is a staff on which I am glad to lean, Simplicity is +an unfailing leader where Learning might go astray. Trust is a lamp that +burns through the darkest night; and sometimes, when strong men are weak +and wise men foolish, strength and wisdom are given unto babes, and he +whom the counsels of the elders cannot save may walk the narrowest path +in safety with his hand in the hand of a little child.</p> + +<p>God grant me guides, then, to my journey's end! God guide us all, +whether we will or no! guide the nations, and make for them a way +through the dust, the turmoil, and the strife which Time has heaped in +their path, to the freshness and promise of the new birth! guide each +poor yearning soul through the darkness and doubt that overshadow it, as +it journeys on to the clear light of immortal day!</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="THE_KALIF_OF_BALDACCA" id="THE_KALIF_OF_BALDACCA"></a>THE KALIF OF BALDACCA.</h2> + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Into the city of Kambalu,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By the road that leadeth to Ispahan,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At the head of his dusty caravan,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Laden with treasure from realms afar,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Baldacca and Kelat and Kandahar,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Rode the great captain Alaù.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The Khan from his palace-window gazed:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He saw in the thronging street beneath,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In the light of the setting sun, that blazed<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Through the clouds of dust by the caravan raised,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The flash of harness and jewelled sheath,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the shining scimitars of the guard,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the weary camels that bared their teeth,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As they passed and passed through the gates unbarred<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Into the shade of the palace-yard.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Thus into the city of Kambalu<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Rode the great captain Alaù;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And he stood before the Khan, and said,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"The enemies of my lord are dead;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All the Kalifs of all the West<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bow and obey his least behest;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The plains are dark with the mulberry-trees,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The weavers are busy in Samarcand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The miners are sifting the golden sand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The divers are plunging for pearls in the seas,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And peace and plenty are in the land.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Only Baldacca's Kalif alone<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Rose in rebellion against thy throne:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His treasures are at thy palace-door,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With the swords and the shawls and the jewels he wore;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His body is dust o'er the Desert blown.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"A mile outside of Baldacca's gate<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I left my forces to lie in wait,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Concealed by forests and hillocks of sand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And forward dashed with a handful of men<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To lure the old tiger from his den<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Into the ambush I had planned.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ere we reached the town the alarm was spread,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For we heard the sound of gongs from within;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With clash of cymbals and warlike din<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The gates swung wide; we turned and fled,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the garrison sallied forth and pursued,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With the gray old Kalif at their head,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And above them the banner of Mahomed:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thus we snared them all, and the town was subdued.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"As in at the gate we rode, behold,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A tower that was called the Tower of Gold!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For there the Kalif had hidden his wealth,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Heaped and hoarded and piled on high,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Like sacks of wheat in a granary;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And there the old miser crept by stealth<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To feel of the gold that gave him health,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To gaze and gloat with his hungry eye<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On jewels that gleamed like a glow-worm's spark,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or the eyes of a panther in the dark.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"I said to the Kalif,—'Thou art old,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thou hast no need of so much gold.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thou shouldst not have heaped and hidden it here,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Till the breath of battle was hot and near,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But have sown through the land these useless hoards<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To spring into shining blades of swords,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And keep thine honor sweet and clear.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">These grains of gold are not grains of wheat;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">These bars of silver thou canst not eat;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">These jewels and pearls and precious stones<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Cannot cure the aches in thy bones,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor keep the feet of Death one hour<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From climbing the stairways of thy tower!'<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Then into this dungeon I locked the drone,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And left him to feed there all alone<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In the honey-cells of his golden hive:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Never a prayer, nor a cry, nor a groan<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Was heard from those massive walls of stone,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor again was the Kalif seen alive!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"When at last we unlocked the door,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">We found him dead upon the floor;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The rings had dropped from his withered hands,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His teeth were like bones in the Desert sands;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Still clutching his treasures he had died;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And as he lay there, he appeared<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A statue of gold with a silver beard,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His arms outstretched as if crucified."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">This is the story, strange and true,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That the great captain Alaù<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Told to his brother the Tartar Khan,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When he rode that day into Kambalu<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By the road that leadeth to Ispahan.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIFE_ON_THE_SEA_ISLANDS" id="LIFE_ON_THE_SEA_ISLANDS"></a>LIFE ON THE SEA ISLANDS.</h2> + + +<h3>PART II.</h3> + +<p>A few days before Christmas, we were delighted at receiving a beautiful +Christmas Hymn from Whittier, written by request, especially for our +children. They learned it very easily, and enjoyed singing it. We showed +them the writer's picture, and told them he was a very good friend of +theirs, who felt the deepest interest in them, and had written this hymn +expressly for them to sing,—which made them very proud and happy. Early +Christmas morning, we were wakened by the people knocking at the doors +and windows, and shouting, "Merry Christmas!" After distributing some +little presents among them, we went to the church, which had been +decorated with holly, pine, cassena, mistletoe, and the hanging moss, +and had a very Christmas-like look. The children of our school assembled +there, and we gave them the nice, comfortable clothing, and the +picture-books, which had been kindly sent by some Philadelphia ladies. +There were at least a hundred and fifty children present. It was very +pleasant to see their happy, expectant little faces. To them, it was a +wonderful Christmas-Day,—such as they had never dreamed of before. +There was cheerful sunshine without, lighting up the beautiful +moss-drapery of the oaks, and looking in joyously through the open +windows; and there were bright faces and glad hearts within. The long, +dark night of the Past, with all its sorrows and its fears, was +forgotten; and for the Future,—the eyes of these freed children see no +clouds in it. It is full of sunlight, they think, and they trust in it, +perfectly.</p> + +<p>After the distribution of the gifts, the children were addressed by some +of the gentlemen present. They then sang Whittier's Hymn, the "John +Brown" song, and several of their own hymns, among them a very singular +one, commencing,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"I wonder where my mudder gone;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Sing, O graveyard!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Graveyard ought to know me;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Ring, Jerusalem!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Grass grow in de graveyard;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Sing, O graveyard!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Graveyard ought to know me;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Ring, Jerusalem!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>They improvise many more words as they sing. It is one of the strangest, +most mournful things I ever heard. It is impossible to give any idea of +the deep pathos of the refrain,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Sing, O graveyard!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>In this, and many other hymns, the words seem to have but little +meaning; but the tones,—a whole lifetime of despairing sadness is +concentrated in them. They sing, also, "Jehovyah, Hallelujah," which we +like particularly:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"De foxes hab holes,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">An' de birdies hab nes',<br /></span> +<span class="i2">But de Son ob Man he hab not where<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To lay de weary head.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i8"><span class="smcap">Chorus.</span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Jehovyah, Hallelujah! De Lord He will purvide!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Jehovyah, Hallelujah! De Lord He will purvide!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>They repeat the words many times. "De foxes hab holes," and the +succeeding lines, are sung in the most touching, mournful tones; and +then the chorus—"Jehovyah, Hallelujah"—swells forth triumphantly, in +glad contrast.</p> + +<p>Christmas night, the children came in and had several grand shouts. They +were too happy to keep still.</p> + +<p>"Oh, Miss, all I want to do is to sing and shout!" said our little pet, +Amaretta. And sing and shout she did, to her heart's content.</p> + +<p>She read nicely, and was very fond of books. The tiniest children are +delighted to get a book in their hands. Many of them already know their +letters. The parents are eager to have them learn. They sometimes said +to me,—</p> + +<p>"Do, Miss, let de chil'en learn eberyting dey can. <i>We</i> nebber hab no +chance to learn nuttin', but we wants de chil'en to learn."</p> + +<p>They are willing to make many sacrifices that their children may attend +school. One old woman, who had a large family of children and +grandchildren, came regularly to school in the winter, and took her seat +among the little ones. She was at least sixty years old. Another +woman—who had one of the best faces I ever saw—came daily, and brought +her baby in her arms. It happened to be one of the best babies in the +world, a perfect little "model of deportment," and allowed its mother to +pursue her studies without interruption.</p> + +<p>While taking charge of the store, one day, one of the men who came in +told me a story which interested me much. He was a carpenter, living on +this island, and just before the capture of Port Royal had been taken by +his master to the mainland,—"the Main," as the people call it,—to +assist in building some houses which were to shelter the families of the +Rebels in case the "Yankees" should come. The master afterward sent him +back to the island, providing him with a pass, to bring away a boat and +some of the people. On his arrival he found that the Union troops were +in possession, and determined to remain here with his family instead of +returning to his master. Some of his fellow-servants, who had been left +on "the Main," hearing that the Federal troops had come, resolved to +make their escape to the islands. They found a boat of their master's, +out of which a piece six feet square had been cut. In the night they +went to the boat, which had been sunk in a creek near the house, +measured the hole, and, after several nights' work in the woods, made a +piece large enough to fit in. They then mended and sank it again, as +they had found it. The next night five of them embarked. They had a +perilous journey, often passing quite near the enemy's boats. They +travelled at night, and in the day ran close up to the shore out of +sight. Sometimes they could hear the hounds, which had been sent in +pursuit of them, baying in the woods. Their provisions gave out, and +they were nearly exhausted. At last they succeeded in passing all the +enemy's boats, and reached one of our gun-boats in safety. They were +taken on board and kindly cared for, and then sent to this island, where +their families, who had no hope of ever seeing them again, welcomed them +with great rejoicing.</p> + +<p>We were also told the story of two girls, one about ten, the other +fifteen, who, having been taken by their master up into the country, on +the mainland, at the time of the capture of the islands, determined to +try to escape to their parents, who had been left on this island. They +stole away at night, and travelled through woods and swamps for two +days, without eating. Sometimes their strength gave out, and they would +sink down, thinking they could go no farther; but they had brave little +hearts, and got up again and struggled on, till at last they reached +Port-Royal Ferry, in a state of utter exhaustion. They were seen there +by a boat-load of people who were also making their escape. The boat was +too full to take them in; but the people, on reaching this island, told +the children's father of their whereabouts, and he immediately took a +boat, and hastened to the ferry. The poor little creatures were almost +wild with joy when they saw him. When they were brought to their mother, +she fell down "jes' as if she was dead,"—so our informant expressed +it,—overpowered with joy on beholding the "lost who were found."</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>New-Year's-Day—Emancipation-Day—was a glorious one to us. The morning +was quite cold, the coldest we had experienced; but we were determined +to go to the celebration at Camp Saxton,—the camp of the First Regiment +South-Carolina Volunteers,—whither the General and Colonel Higginson +had bidden us, on this, "the greatest day in the nation's history." We +enjoyed perfectly the exciting scene on board the Flora. There was an +eager, wondering crowd of the freed people in their holiday-attire, with +the gayest of head-handkerchiefs, the whitest of aprons, and the +happiest of faces. The band was playing, the flags streaming, everybody +talking merrily and feeling strangely happy. The sun shone brightly, the +very waves seemed to partake of the universal gayety, and danced and +sparkled more joyously than ever before. Long before we reached Camp +Saxton we could see the beautiful grove, and the ruins of the old +Huguenot fort near it. Some companies of the First Regiment were drawn +up in line under the trees, near the landing, to receive us. A fine, +soldierly-looking set of men; their brilliant dress against the trees +(they were then wearing red pantaloons) invested them with a +semi-barbaric splendor. It was my good fortune to find among the +officers an old friend,—and what it was to meet a friend from the +North, in our isolated Southern life, no one can imagine who has not +experienced the pleasure. Letters were an unspeakable luxury,—we +hungered for them, we could never get enough; but to meet old +friends,—that was "too much, too much," as the people here say, when +they are very much in earnest. Our friend took us over the camp, and +showed us all the arrangements. Everything looked clean and comfortable, +much neater, we were told, than in most of the white camps. An officer +told us that he had never seen a regiment in which the men were so +honest. "In many other camps," said he, "the colonel and the rest of us +would find it necessary to place a guard before our tents. We never do +it here. They are left entirely unguarded. Yet nothing has ever been +touched." We were glad to know that. It is a remarkable fact, when we +consider that these men have all their lives been <i>slaves</i>; and we know +what the teachings of Slavery are.</p> + +<p>The celebration took place in the beautiful grove of live-oaks adjoining +the camp. It was the largest grove we had seen. I wish it were possible +to describe fitly the scene which met our eyes as we sat upon the stand, +and looked down on the crowd before us. There were the black soldiers in +their blue coats and scarlet pantaloons, the officers of this and other +regiments in their handsome uniforms, and crowds of lookers-on,—men, +women, and children, of every complexion, grouped in various attitudes +under the moss-hung trees. The faces of all wore a happy, interested +look. The exercises commenced with a prayer by the chaplain of the +regiment. An ode, written for the occasion by Professor Zachos, was read +by him, and then sung. Colonel Higginson then introduced Dr. Brisbane, +who read the President's Proclamation, which was enthusiastically +cheered. Rev. Mr. French presented to the Colonel two very elegant +flags, a gift to the regiment from the Church of the Puritans, +accompanying them by an appropriate and enthusiastic speech. At its +conclusion, before Colonel Higginson could reply, and while he still +stood holding the flags in his hand, some of the colored people, of +their own accord, commenced singing, "My Country, 'tis of thee." It was +a touching and beautiful incident, and sent a thrill through all our +hearts. The Colonel was deeply moved by it. He said that that reply was +far more effective than any speech he could make. But he did make one of +those stirring speeches which are "half battles." All hearts swelled +with emotion as we listened to his glorious words,—"stirring the soul +like the sound of a trumpet."</p> + +<p>His soldiers are warmly attached to him, and he evidently feels towards +them all as if they were his children. The people speak of him as "the +officer who never leaves his regiment for pleasure," but devotes +himself, with all his rich gifts of mind and heart, to their interests. +It is not strange that his judicious kindness, ready sympathy, and rare +fascination of manner should attach them to him strongly. He is one's +ideal of an officer. There is in him much of the grand, knightly spirit +of the olden time,—scorn of all that is mean and ignoble, pity for the +weak, chivalrous devotion to the cause of the oppressed.</p> + +<p>General Saxton spoke also, and was received with great enthusiasm. +Throughout the morning, repeated cheers were given for him by the +regiment, and joined in heartily by all the people. They know him to be +one of the best and noblest men in the world. His Proclamation for +Emancipation-Day we thought, if possible, even more beautiful than the +Thanksgiving Proclamation.</p> + +<p>At the close of Colonel Higginson's speech he presented the flags to the +color-bearers, Sergeant Rivers and Sergeant Sutton, with an earnest +charge, to which they made appropriate replies. We were particularly +pleased with Robert Sutton, who is a man of great natural intelligence, +and whose remarks were simple, eloquent, and forcible.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Gage also uttered some earnest words; and then the regiment sang +"John Brown" with much spirit. After the meeting we saw the +dress-parade, a brilliant and beautiful sight. An officer told us that +the men went through the drill remarkably well,—that the ease and +rapidity with which they learned the movements were wonderful. To us it +seemed strange as a miracle,—this black regiment, the first mustered +into the service of the United States, doing itself honor in the sight +of the officers of other regiments, many of whom, doubtless, "came to +scoff." The men afterwards had a great feast, ten oxen having been +roasted whole for their especial benefit.</p> + +<p>We went to the landing, intending to take the next boat for Beaufort; +but finding it very much crowded, waited for another. It was the +softest, loveliest moonlight; we seated ourselves on the ruined wall of +the old fort; and when the boat had got a short distance from the shore +the band in it commenced playing "Sweet Home." The moonlight on the +water, the perfect stillness around, the wildness and solitude of the +ruins, all seemed to give new pathos to that ever dear and beautiful old +song. It came very near to all of us,—strangers in that strange +Southern land. After a while we retired to one of the tents,—for the +night-air, as usual, grew dangerously damp,—and, sitting around the +bright wood-fire, enjoyed the brilliant and entertaining conversation. +Very unwilling were we to go home; for, besides the attractive society, +we knew that the soldiers were to have grand shouts and a general +jubilee that night. But the Flora was coming, and we were obliged to say +a reluctant farewell to Camp Saxton and the hospitable dwellers therein, +and hasten to the landing. We promenaded the deck of the steamer, sang +patriotic songs, and agreed that moonlight and water had never looked so +beautiful as on that night. At Beaufort we took the row-boat for St. +Helena; and the boatmen, as they rowed, sang some of their sweetest, +wildest hymns. It was a fitting close to such a day. Our hearts were +filled with an exceeding great gladness; for, although the Government +had left much undone, we knew that Freedom was surely born in our land +that day. It seemed too glorious a good to realize,—this beginning of +the great work we had so longed and prayed for.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>L. and I had one day an interesting visit to a plantation about six +miles from ours. The house is beautifully situated in the midst of noble +pine-trees, on the banks of a large creek. The place was owned by a very +wealthy Rebel family, and is one of the pleasantest and healthiest on +the island. The vicinity of the pines makes it quite healthy. There were +a hundred and fifty people on it,—one hundred of whom had come from +Edisto Island at the time of its evacuation by our troops. There were +not houses enough to accommodate them, and they had to take shelter in +barns, out-houses, or any other place they could find. They afterwards +built rude dwellings for themselves, which did not, however, afford them +much protection in bad weather. The superintendent told us that they +were well-behaved and industrious. One old woman interested us greatly. +Her name was Daphne; she was probably more than a hundred years old; had +had fifty grandchildren, sixty-five great-grandchildren, and three +great-great-grandchildren. Entirely blind, she yet seemed very cheerful +and happy. She told us that she was brought with her parents from Africa +at the time of the Revolution. A bright, happy old face was hers, and +she retained her faculties remarkably well. Fifteen of the people had +escaped from the mainland in the previous spring. They were pursued, and +one of them was overtaken by his master in the swamps. A fierce grapple +ensued,—the master on horseback, the man on foot. The former drew a +pistol and shot his slave through the arm, shattering it dreadfully. +Still, the heroic man fought desperately, and at last succeeded in +unhorsing his master, and beating him until he was senseless. He then +made his escape, and joined the rest of the party.</p> + +<p>One of the most interesting sights we saw was a baptism among the +people. On one Sunday there were a hundred and fifty baptized in the +creek near the church. They looked very picturesque in their white +aprons and bright frocks and handkerchiefs. As they marched in +procession down to the river's edge, and during the ceremony, the +spectators, with whom the banks were crowded, sang glad, triumphant +songs. The freed people on this island are all Baptists.</p> + +<p>We were much disappointed in the Southern climate. We found it much +colder than we had expected,—quite cold enough for as thick winter +clothing as one would wear at the North. The houses, heated only by open +fires, were never comfortably warm. In the floor of our sitting-room +there was a large crack through which we could see the ground beneath; +and through this and the crevices of the numerous doors and windows the +wind came chillingly. The church in which we taught school was +particularly damp and cold. There was no chimney, and we could have no +fire at all. Near the close of the winter a stove came for us, but it +could not be made to draw; we were nearly suffocated with smoke, and +gave it up in despair. We got so thoroughly chilled and benumbed within, +that for several days we had school out-of-doors, where it was much +warmer. Our school-room was a pleasant one,—for ceiling the blue sky +above, for walls the grand old oaks with their beautiful +moss-drapery,—but the dampness of the ground made it unsafe for us to +continue the experiment.</p> + +<p>At a later period, during a few days' visit to some friends living on +the Milne Plantation, then the head-quarters of the First +South-Carolina, which was on picket-duty at Port-Royal Ferry, we had an +opportunity of seeing something of Port-Royal Island. We had pleasant +rides through the pine barrens. Indeed, riding on horseback was our +chief recreation at the South, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. The +"Secesh" horses, though small, poor, and mean-looking, when compared +with ours, are generally excellent for the saddle, well-trained and very +easy. I remember particularly one ride that we had while on Port-Royal +Island. We visited the Barnwell Plantation, one of the finest places on +the island. It is situated on Broad River. The grounds are extensive, +and are filled with magnificent live-oaks, magnolias, and other trees. +We saw one noble old oak, said to be the largest on these islands. Some +of the branches have been cut off, but the remaining ones cover an area +of more than a hundred feet in circumference. We rode to a point whence +the Rebels on the opposite side of the river are sometimes to be seen. +But they were not visible that day; and we were disappointed in our +long-cherished hope of seeing a "real live Rebel." On leaving the +plantation, we rode through a long avenue of oaks,—the moss-hung +branches forming a perfect arch over our heads,—and then for miles +through the pine barrens. There was an Italian softness in the April +air. Only a low, faint murmur—hardly "the slow song of the sea"—could +be heard among the pines. The ground was thickly carpeted with ferns of +a vivid green. We found large violets, purple and white, and azaleas of +a deeper pink and heavier fragrance than ours. It was leaving Paradise, +to emerge from the beautiful woods upon the public road,—the shell-road +which runs from Beaufort to the Ferry. Then we entered a by-way leading +to the plantation, where we found the Cherokee rose in all its glory. +The hedges were white with it; it canopied the trees, and hung from +their branches its long sprays of snowy blossoms and dark, shining +leaves, forming perfect arches, and bowers which seemed fitting places +for fairies to dwell in. How it gladdened our eyes and hearts! It was as +if all the dark shadows that have so long hung over this Southern land +had flitted away, and, in this garment of purest white, it shone forth +transfigured, beautified, forevermore.</p> + +<p>On returning to the house, we were met by the exciting news that the +Rebels were bringing up pontoon-bridges, and were expected to attempt +crossing over near the Ferry, which was only two or three miles from us. +Couriers came in every few moments with various reports. A +superintendent whose plantation was very near the Ferry had been +watching through his glass the movements on the opposite side, and +reported that the Rebels were gathering in large force, and evidently +preparing for some kind of demonstration. A messenger was despatched to +Beaufort for reinforcements, and for some time we were in a state of +expectancy, not entirely without excitement, but entirely without fear. +The officers evidently enjoyed the prospect of a fight. One of them +assured me that I should have the pleasure of seeing a Rebel shell +during the afternoon. It was proposed that the women should be sent into +Beaufort in an ambulance; against which ignoble treatment we indignantly +protested, and declared our intention of remaining at our post, if the +Colonel would consent; and finally, to our great joy, the best of +colonels did consent that we should remain, as he considered it quite +safe for us to do so. Soon a light battery arrived, and during the +evening a brisk firing was kept up. We could hear the explosion of the +shells. It was quite like being in the war; and as the firing was +principally on our side, and the enemy was getting the worst of it, we +rather enjoyed it. For a little while the Colonel read to us, in his +spirited way, some of the stirring "Lays of the Old Cavaliers." It was +just the time to appreciate them thoroughly, and he was of all men the +fittest person to read them. But soon came a courier, "in hot haste," to +make report of the doings without, and the reading was at an end. In the +midst of the firing, Mrs. D. and I went to bed, and slept soundly until +morning. We learned afterward that the Rebels had not intended to cross +over, but were attempting to take the guns off one of our boats, which +they had sunk a few days previous. The timely arrival of the battery +from Beaufort prevented them from accomplishing their purpose.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>In April we left Oaklands, which had always been considered a +particularly unhealthy place during the summer, and came to "Seaside," a +plantation on another and healthier part of the island. The place +contains nearly a hundred people. The house is large and comparatively +comfortable. Notwithstanding the name, we have not even a distant +glimpse of the sea, although we can sometimes hear its roar. At low tide +there is not a drop of water to be seen,—only dreary stretches of +marsh-land, reminding us of the sad outlook of Mariana in the Moated +Grange,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The level waste and rounding gray."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>But at night we have generally a good sea-breeze, and during the hottest +weather the air is purer and more invigorating than in many parts of the +island.</p> + +<p>On this, as on several other large plantations, there is a +"Praise-House," which is the special property of the people. Even in the +old days of Slavery, they were allowed to hold meetings here; and they +still keep up the custom. They assemble on several nights of the week, +and on Sunday afternoons. First, they hold what is called the +"Praise-Meeting," which consists of singing, praying, and preaching. We +have heard some of the old negro preachers make prayers that were really +beautiful and touching. In these meetings they sing only the +church-hymns which the Northern ministers have taught them, and which +are far less suited to their voices than their own. At the close of the +Praise-Meeting they all shake hands with each other in the most solemn +manner. Afterward, as a kind of appendix, they have a grand "shout," +during which they sing their own hymns. Maurice, an old blind man, leads +the singing. He has a remarkable voice, and sings with the greatest +enthusiasm. The first shout that we witnessed in the Praise-House +impressed us very much. The large, gloomy room, with its blackened +walls,—the wild, whirling dance of the shouters,—the crowd of dark, +eager faces gathered around,—the figure of the old blind man, whose +excitement could hardly be controlled, and whose attitude and gestures +while singing were very fine,—and over all, the red glare of the +burning pine-knot, which shed a circle of light around it, but only +seemed to deepen and darken the shadows in the other parts of the +room,—these all formed a wild, strange, and deeply impressive picture, +not soon to be forgotten.</p> + +<p>Maurice's especial favorite is one of the grandest hymns that we have +yet heard:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"De tallest tree in Paradise<br /></span> +<span class="i2">De Christian calls de Tree ob Life,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To my New Jerusalem.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i15"><span class="smcap">Chorus.</span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Blow, Gabriel! trumpet, blow louder, louder!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To my New Jerusalem!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i2">"Paul and Silas jail-bound<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Sing God's praise both night and day,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To my New Jerusalem.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i15"><span class="smcap">Chorus.</span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Blow, Gabriel! trumpet, blow louder, louder!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To my New Jerusalem!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The chorus has a glad, triumphal sound, and in singing it the voice of +old Maurice rings out in wonderfully clear, trumpet-like tones. His +blindness was caused by a blow on the head from a loaded whip. He was +struck by his master in a fit of anger. "I feel great distress when I +become blind," said Maurice; "but den I went to seek de Lord; and eber +since I know I see in de next world, I always hab great satisfaction." +We are told that the master was not a "hard man" except when in a +passion, and then he seems to have been very cruel.</p> + +<p>One of the women on the place, Old Bess, bears on her limbs many marks +of the whip. Some of the scars are three and four inches long. She was +used principally as a house-servant. She says, "Ebery time I lay de +table I put cow-skin on one end, an' I git beatin' and thumpin' all de +time. Hab all kinds o' work to do, and sich a gang [of children] to look +after! One person couldn't git along wid so much work, so it go wrong, +and den I git beatin'."</p> + +<p>But the cruelty of Bess's master sinks into insignificance, when +compared with the far-famed wickedness of another slave-holder, known +all over the island as "Old Joe Eddings." There seem to have been no +bounds to his cruelty and licentiousness; and the people tell tales of +him which make one shudder. We were once asking some questions about him +of an old, half-witted woman, a former slave of his. The look of horror +and loathing which overspread her face was perfectly indescribable, as, +with upraised hands, she exclaimed, "What! Old Joe Eddings? Lord, +Missus, he second to none in de world but de Debil!" She had, indeed, +good cause to detest him; for, some years before, her daughter, a young +black girl, maddened by his persecutions, had thrown herself into the +creek and been drowned, after having been severely beaten for refusing +to degrade herself. Outraged, despised, and black, she yet preferred +death to dishonor. But these are things too heart-sickening to dwell +upon. God alone knows how many hundreds of plantations, all over the +South, might furnish a similar record.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Early in June, before the summer heat had become unendurable, we made a +pleasant excursion to Edisto Island. We left St. Helena village in the +morning, dined on one of the gun-boats stationed near our island, and in +the afternoon proceeded to Edisto in two row-boats. There were six of +us, besides an officer and the boats' crews, who were armed with guns +and cutlasses. There was no actual danger; but as we were going into the +enemy's country, we thought it wisest to guard against surprises. After +a delightful row, we reached the island near sunset, landing at a place +called Eddingsville, which was a favorite summer resort with the +aristocracy of Edisto. It has a fine beach several miles in length. +Along the beach there is a row of houses, which must once have been very +desirable dwellings, but have now a desolate, dismantled look. The +sailors explored the beach for some distance, and returned, reporting +"all quiet, and nobody to be seen"; so we walked on, feeling quite safe, +stopping here and there to gather the beautiful tiny shells which were +buried deep in the sands.</p> + +<p>We took supper in a room of one of the deserted houses, using for seats +some old bureau-drawers turned edgewise. Afterward we sat on the piazza, +watching the lightning playing from a low, black cloud over a sky +flushed with sunset, and listening to the merry songs of the sailors who +occupied the next house. They had built a large fire, the cheerful glow +of which shone through the windows, and we could see them dancing, +evidently in great glee. Later, we had another walk on the beach, in the +lovely moonlight. It was very quiet then. The deep stillness was broken +only by the low, musical murmur of the waves. The moon shone bright and +clear over the deserted houses and gardens, and gave them a still wilder +and more desolate look.</p> + +<p>We went within-doors for the night very unwillingly. Having, of course, +no beds, we made ourselves as comfortable as we could on the floor, with +boat-cushions, blankets, and shawls. No fear of Rebels disturbed us. +There was but one road by which they could get to us, and on that a +watch was kept, and in case of their approach, we knew we should have +ample time to get to the boats and make our escape. So, despite the +mosquitoes, we had a sound night's sleep.</p> + +<p>The next morning we took the boats again, and followed the course of the +most winding of little creeks. In and out, in and out, the boats went. +Sometimes it seemed as if we were going into the very heart of the +woods; and through the deep silence we half expected to hear the sound +of a Rebel rifle. The banks were overhung with a thick tangle of shrubs +and bushes, which threatened to catch our boats, as we passed close +beneath their branches. In some places the stream was so narrow that we +ran aground, and then the men had to get out, and drag and pull with all +their might before we could be got clear again. After a row full of +excitement and pleasure, we reached our place of destination,—the +Eddings Plantation, whither some of the freedmen had preceded us in +their search for corn. It must once have been a beautiful place. The +grounds were laid out with great taste, and filled with fine trees, +among which we noticed particularly the oleander, laden with deep +rose-hued and deliciously fragrant flowers, and the magnolia, with its +wonderful, large blossoms, which shone dazzlingly white among the dark +leaves. We explored the house,—after it had first been examined by our +guard, to see that no foes lurked there,—but found nothing but heaps of +rubbish, an old bedstead, and a bathing-tub, of which we afterward made +good use. When we returned to the shore, we found that the tide had gone +out, and between us and the boats lay a tract of marsh-land, which it +would have been impossible to cross without a wetting. The gentlemen +determined on wading. But what were we to do? In this dilemma somebody +suggested the bathing-tub, a suggestion which was eagerly seized upon. +We were placed in it, one at a time, borne aloft in triumph on the +shoulders of four stout sailors, and safely deposited in the boat. But, +through a mistake, the tub was not sent back for two of the ladies, and +they were brought over on the crossed hands of two of the sailors, in +the "carry-a-lady-to-London" style. Again we rowed through the windings +of the creek, then out into the open sea, among the white, exhilarating +breakers,—reached the gun-boat, dined again with its hospitable +officers, and then returned to our island, which we reached after +nightfall, feeling thoroughly tired, but well pleased with our +excursion.</p> + +<p>From what we saw of Edisto, however, we did not like it better than our +own island,—except, of course, the beach; but we are told that farther +in the interior it is much more beautiful. The freed people, who left it +at the time of its evacuation, think it the loveliest place in the +world, and long to return. When we were going, Miss T.—the much-loved +and untiring friend and physician of the people—asked some whom we met +if we should give their love to Edisto. "Oh, yes, yes, Miss!" they said. +"Ah, Edisto a beautiful city!" And when we came back, they inquired, +eagerly,—"How you like Edisto? How Edisto stan'?" Only the fear of +again falling into the hands of the "Secesh" prevents them from +returning to their much-loved home.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>As the summer advanced, the heat became intense. We found it almost +overpowering, driving to school near the middle of the day, as we were +obliged to do. I gave up riding, and mounted a sulky, such as a single +gentleman drives in at the North. It was exceedingly high, and I found +it no small task to mount up into it. Its already very comical +appearance was enhanced by the addition of a cover of black India-rubber +cloth, with which a friend kindly provided me. Thus adorned, it looked +like the skeleton of some strange creature surmounted by a huge bonnet, +and afforded endless amusement to the soldiers we chanced to meet, who +hailed its appearance with shouts of laughter, and cries of "Here comes +the Calithumpian!" This unique vehicle, with several others on our +island, kindred, but not quite equal to it, would create a decided +sensation in the streets of a Northern city.</p> + +<p>No description of life on these islands would be complete without a word +concerning the fleas. They appeared at the opening of spring, and kept +constantly "risin'," as the people said, until they reached a height the +possibility of which we had never conceived. We had heard and read of +fleas. We had never <i>realized</i> them before. Words utterly fail to +describe the tortures we endured for months from these horrible little +tyrants. Remembering our sufferings "through weary day and weary +<i>night</i>," we warn everybody not gifted with extraordinary powers of +endurance to beware of a summer on the Sea Islands.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the heat, we determined to celebrate the Fourth of July +as worthily as we could. The freed people and the children of the +different schools assembled in the grove near the Baptist Church. The +flag was hung across the road, between two magnificent live-oaks, and +the children, being grouped under it, sang "The Star-Spangled Banner" +with much spirit. Our good General could not come, but addresses were +made by Mr. P.,—the noble-hearted founder of the movement for the +benefit of the people here, and from first to last their stanch and +much-loved friend,—by Mr. L., a young colored minister, and others. +Then the people sang some of their own hymns; and the woods resounded +with the grand notes of "Roll, Jordan, roll." They all afterward partook +of refreshments, consisting of molasses and water,—a very great luxury +to them,—and hardtack.</p> + +<p>Among the visitors present was the noble young Colonel Shaw, whose +regiment was then stationed on the island. We had met him a few nights +before, when he came to our house to witness one of the people's shouts. +We looked upon him with the deepest interest. There was something in his +face finer, more exquisite, than one often sees in a man's face, yet it +was full of courage and decision. The rare and singular charm of his +manner drew all hearts to him. He was deeply interested in the singing +and appearance of the people. A few days afterwards we saw his regiment +on dress-parade, and admired its remarkably fine and manly appearance. +After taking supper with the Colonel we sat outside the tent, while some +of his men entertained us with excellent singing. Every moment we became +more and more charmed with him. How full of life and hope and lofty +aspirations he was that night! How eagerly he expressed his wish that +they might soon be ordered to Charleston! "I do hope they will give <i>us</i> +a chance," he said. It was the desire of his soul that his men should do +themselves honor,—that they should prove themselves to an unbelieving +world as brave soldiers as though their skins were white. And for +himself, he was like the Chevalier of old, "without reproach or fear." +After we had mounted our horses and rode away, we seemed still to feel +the kind clasp of his hand,—to hear the pleasant, genial tones of his +voice, as he bade us good-bye, and hoped that we might meet again. We +never saw him afterward. In two short weeks came the terrible massacre +at Fort Wagner, and the beautiful head of the young hero and martyr was +laid low in the dust. Never shall we forget the heart-sickness with +which we heard of his death. We could not realize it at first,—we, who +had seen him so lately in all the strength and glory of his young +manhood. For days we clung to a vain hope; then it fell away from us, +and we knew that he was gone. We knew that he died gloriously, but still +it seemed very hard. Our hearts bled for the mother whom he so +loved,—for the young wife, left desolate. And then we said, as we say +now,—"God comfort them! He only can." During a few of the sad days +which followed the attack on Fort Wagner, I was in one of the hospitals +of Beaufort, occupied with the wounded soldiers of the Fifty-Fourth +Massachusetts. The first morning was spent in mending the bullet-holes +and rents in their clothing. What a story they told! Some of the jackets +of the poor fellows were literally cut in pieces. It was pleasant to see +the brave, cheerful spirit among them. Some of them were severely +wounded, but they uttered no complaint; and in the letters which they +dictated to their absent friends there was no word of regret, but the +same cheerful tone throughout. They expressed an eager desire to get +well, that they might "go at it again." Their attachment to their young +colonel was beautiful to see. They felt his death deeply. One and all +united in the warmest and most enthusiastic praise of him. He was, +indeed, exactly the person to inspire the most loyal devotion in the +hearts of his men. And with everything to live for, he had given up his +life for them. Heaven's best gifts had been showered upon him, but for +them he had laid them all down. I think they truly appreciated the +greatness of the sacrifice. May they ever prove worthy of such a leader! +Already, they, and the regiments of freedmen here, as well, have shown +that true manhood has no limitations of color.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Daily the long-oppressed people of these islands are demonstrating their +capacity for improvement in learning and labor. What they have +accomplished in one short year exceeds our utmost expectations. Still +the sky is dark; but through the darkness we can discern a brighter +future. We cannot but feel that the day of final and entire deliverance, +so long and often so hopelessly prayed for, has at length begun to dawn +upon this much-enduring race. An old freedman said to me one day, "De +Lord make me suffer long time, Miss. 'Peared like we nebber was gwine to +git troo. But now we's free. He bring us all out right at las'." In +their darkest hours they have clung to Him, and we know He will not +forsake them.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The poor among men shall rejoice,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For the terrible one is brought to nought."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>While writing these pages I am once more nearing Port Royal. The +Fortunate Isles of Freedom are before me. I shall again tread the +flower-skirted wood-paths of St. Helena, and the sombre pines and +bearded oaks shall whisper in the sea-wind their grave welcome. I shall +dwell again among "mine own people." I shall gather my scholars about +me, and see smiles of greeting break over their dusk faces. My heart +sings a song of thanksgiving, at the thought that even I am permitted to +do something for a long-abused race, and aid in promoting a higher, +holier, and happier life on the Sea Islands.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_FAST-DAY_AT_FOXDEN" id="A_FAST-DAY_AT_FOXDEN"></a>A FAST-DAY AT FOXDEN.</h2> + + +<h3>I.</h3> + +<p>Colonel Elijah Prowley, like all good and true genealogists, held the +mother-country in tender reverence. For, if there be any truth in the +well-known <i>mot</i> which calls Paris the Paradise of virtuous Yankees, it +is limited to a few city-bucks of mongrel caste. England must be the +Promised Land for the genuine representative of the Puritan. Whatever we +may have felt about her lately,—and I confess there have been times +when the declaration of the Fee-Faw-Fum giant of nursery-romance seemed +to be of a moral and praiseworthy character,—there is no doubt, that, +in the year of grace of which I write, and in the regards of many +ratherish-scholarly gentlemen of our country-towns, the British Islands +were the nearest terrestrial correspondences to the Islands of the +Blest. About the massive Past Colonel Prowley never ceased to thrust his +epistolary tendrils. Was not Great Britain a genealogical hunting-ground +where game of rarest plumage might be started? Was not a +family-connection with Sir Walter Raleigh (whose name should be written +<i>Praleigh</i>, a common corruption of "Prowley" in the sixteenth century) +susceptible of the clearest proof? There were, in fact, few +distinguished Englishmen of the present day, who, if a provoking +ancestor or two could be unearthed, might not be shown to have the +Prowley fluid in their veins. To many of these eminent personages the +head of the American branch of the family had written, and with several +he had succeeded in establishing a correspondence. Old sermons, moral +obituaries of public characters, celebrations of centennial +anniversaries, and heavy reading of like description, constantly left +the Foxden Post-Office addressed to the British Museum. The printed +formulas of acknowledgment which arrived in return were preserved as the +rarest treasures.</p> + +<p>And in fulness of time all this corresponding and presenting produced a +glorious result. Elijah Prowley, of Foxden, was chosen an Honorary +Member of the Royal Society of British Sextons,—an association than +which there is none more mouldy in the whole world. Certainly, this was +glory enough for any Western genealogist,—yet Fortune had a higher +gratification to bestow. For, in His Worship, the Most Primordial, the +High Senior Governour and Primitive Patriarch of all Sextons, Colonel +Prowley soon discovered a relative of his own. Sir Joseph Barley, a +rubicund old knight, and the Most Primordial in question, after an +elaborate investigation and counter-investigation, a jockeying of the +wits of very old women, and a raid into divers registers, scrolls, +schedules, archives, and the like,—Sir Joseph Barley, I say, turned out +to be <i>a long-lost cousin</i>. "Barley," it appeared, had anciently been +written "Parley," and "Praley," and even "Proley." Having arrived at +this point, Sir Joseph conjectured that his ancestor Proley might have +dropped a <i>w</i> out of his name, and the Colonel conjectured that his +progenitor, the Puritan, might have put one into his. Now it did not +matter which was right, for, as was convincingly underscored in one of +my letters from Foxden, "<i>upon either hypothesis</i>, the relationship of +the Barleys of Old England to the Prowleys of New England was positively +established."</p> + +<p>And so Sir Joseph Barley was dead!</p> + +<p>Although shocked, when the fact of his demise was abruptly announced in +the familiar chirography of my old friend, I was unable to prevent a +certain sense of the grotesque from mingling with the idea. A portrait +in pastel, which hung over the chimney-piece in the Colonel's study, had +given me a thorough acquaintance with the outward Sir Joseph. That +brief, but bulky figure, clad in official robes as High Senior +Governour, that weighty seal of the Sextons which dangled from the fob, +those impressive spectacles with the glasses cut in parallelograms, +above all, that full-blown face blandly contemplating our American +rudeness like a smiling Phœbus from British skies,—how could all +these things, which had so individualized the natural body of Sir Joseph +Barley, be dispensed with in its spiritual counterpart? No answer to +such question,—only the grim facts, that one brother more had "gone +over to the majority," and that the living minority got on very +comfortably without him. Comfortably? Ay, truly; for in the very letter +that brought the news I was begged to spend the approaching Fast-Day in +Foxden, just as if nothing had happened. The season, so I was assured, +was unusually advanced, and already the flavor of spring was perceptible +in the air; moreover, the different congregations in town were to unite +in services at the Orthodox Church, and, by extraordinary favor, one of +the Colonel's Boston correspondents, no less a man than the +distinguished Dr. Burge, was to preach the sermon.</p> + +<p>A noble specimen of our New-England clergy was this Dr. Burge. He held +the old creed-formulas through which Wilson and Mather declared their +faith, yet warmed them into ruddy life by whatever fire the last +transcendental Prometheus or Comte-devoted scientist filched from aërial +or material heaven. A good diner-out, a good visitor among the poor. His +parishioners supplied him with a wood-fire, a saddle-horse, and, it was +maliciously said, a boxing-master; and he, on his part,—so ran the idle +rumor of the street,—covenanted never to call upon them for cod-liver +oil, Bourbon whiskey, or a tour to Europe. In his majestic presence +there was a total impression sanative to body and soul. The full powers +of manner and tone, of pause and emphasis, were at his command. He would +rise in a shingled meeting-house as effective as choir, organ, and +sacerdotal vestments in full cathedral-service. I was glad to learn that +this stalwart servant of the Word would be at Foxden. He had formerly +been well acquainted with the Reverend Charles Clifton, late pastor of a +church in that place. He might deal wisely with the evil intelligence, +or, possibly, the infatuated egotism, which controlled that unfortunate +man. Dr. Burge would possess his soul in calmness in presence of the +singular epidemic which was then running through Foxden, as it had +previously run through, and run out of, other river-towns.</p> + +<p>And now it has come in my way to speak of that strange murmuring of +phantoms and their attendant seers, psychometers, and dactylomancers, +which in these latter days has revived among us. And what I may have to +say about what is called Spiritualism will reflect actual observations. +I do not forget that to the advocacy of the "New Dispensation" are +devoted many men of earnestness and a few of ability. It is possible +that the facts they build upon may render mine exceptional and +unimportant. What is here set down is but a trifling contribution to +that mass of human testimony and human opinion from which the truth must +be finally elicited.</p> + +<p>Mr. Stellato had been celestially commissioned to Barnum the spirits in +their Foxden exhibitions. Two years previously this gentleman was to be +seen at the head of a fanatical and tumultuary offshoot from a cause the +most humane and noble. He had done whatever his slender abilities +permitted to bring into discredit large-hearted and devoted men and +women whom history will honorably remember as New-England Reformers. But +to lead anything on a large scale, without a continual winding-up by his +companion, the fibrous Mrs. Romulus, was beyond the crassitude of +Stellato's pursy nature. Now it had come to pass that this acidulated +lady, essaying fresh flurries of progression, discovering higher +passional affinities and new duties of demolition, proving that in +Church and State every brick was loose and every timber rotten, +testifying ever to the existence of a certain harmonial mortar by which +the rubbish of a demolished civilization could be rebuilt into +unexceptionable forms,—it happened that this woman, having towered for +one proud moment at the very apex of her mission, slipped suddenly into +the Romish communion, and was no more seen of men. Stellato, perceiving +that the peculiar machinery be had been taught to manage was now out of +repair and impracticable, looked about for some new invention whereby to +gain a livelihood from the credulity of his neighbors. "The spirits," +then at the height of their profit and renown, were adapted to his +purpose. A blank and vacant mind was freely offered to any power of +earth or air which would condescend to enter and possess it. And so Mr. +Stellato, with his three parts knavery and two parts delusion, became a +popular and successful ghost-monger.</p> + +<p>The parsonage had been closed since Charles Clifton terminated his +connection with the parish two years before. The newest lights of the +Liberal persuasion, fledglings from divinity-schools, youths of every +possible variety of creed and no creed, had by turns occupied the vacant +pulpit. The Gospel vibrated at all points between the interpretations of +Calvin and Strauss. The congregation grew more and more critical, and +could agree upon no candidate for settlement. They demanded the +respectability of belief with the showy talents of skepticism,—an +impossible combination, at least for a parish which offered only eight +hundred dollars and a decrepit house. At length Colonel Prowley took a +pew in the Orthodox Church;—it was a temporary arrangement, he said, to +be terminated whenever a settled minister should be provided for the +First Parish.</p> + +<p>The Reverend Charles Clifton seldom left the rooms which he had taken in +a farmer's family on the outskirts of the town. We have seen how this +man had once believed that Providence had called him to an exceptional +and brilliant destiny. The total renouncement of what once glowed as a +mission requires a sturdy nature and plenty of active work. Clifton +possessed an exceeding susceptibility of nervous organization; he was +full of subtile intimations of what was passing in the minds of other +men, and at times seemed to have a strange power of controlling them. +The deep passion for metaphysical knowledge, which in his youth had been +kindled, was stilled, but never overcome. Wifeless, childless, he was +put under no bonds to struggle with the world. He knew the coldness of +the church in which he had been ordained to minister,—the hard and +dreary lives of those whom he had undertaken to illumine. But he made +the fatal mistake—inexcusable, it would seem, in a man of his liberal +nurture—of supposing that this world's evil was owing to the absence of +right opinion, and not of right feeling. It is to be feared that it was +not principle, but only a paroxysm of cowardice, which caused Clifton to +bury Vannelle's legacy in the Mather Safe. At all events, the minister +found himself unable to dismiss a certain thin and impalpable fantasy +which lingered behind that ponderous speculation of an all-embracing +philosophy. For the past two years he had fitfully sought, or rather +persuaded himself that he sought, some clue through the sad labyrinth of +his fate. He had indulged in the most morbid conditions of his physical +organism; there was neither steadiness in his purpose nor firmness in +his action. He yearned for that proximity to hidden things, which, if +not forbidden to all men, yet is dangerous to most men. At length he +succeeded in freeing his soul from the weight of conscious intellectual +life which had become too heavy for it to bear. And while the Foxden +people were wondering about the occupation of a late pastor in one of +their churches, and inquiring of each other whether he would again speak +before them, their gossiping solicitude was suddenly set at rest. +Printed show-bills were posted about the streets: "Grand Festival of +Spiritualists at the Town Hall." "The Reverend Charles Clifton will +speak"—a line of largest type gloated upon the scandal—"IN A +TRANCE-STATE."</p> + +<p>"I really ought to apologize," said Colonel Prowley, upon opening the +hall-door for my admittance, on the afternoon of the second Wednesday in +April, and this after repeated summons had been sounded by the brazen +knocker,—"I ought to apologize for keeping you here so long; but there +has been so much knocking about the house of late, and our cook and +housemaid having turned out to be such excellent mediums, taking just as +much interest in their circle down-stairs as we do in ours in the +parlor, and then Mrs. Colfodder being so positive that it was either Sir +Joseph Barley or Roger Williams,—though I am sure neither of them ever +knocked half so satisfactorily before, and besides"——</p> + +<p>"My dear Sir," interrupted I, "no excuse is necessary. I have +seen enough of 'the spirits' to know how they put aside all +conventionalities. I should have accompanied Dr. Burge to the hotel, had +I anticipated disturbing the circle which, I infer, is at present in +session."</p> + +<p>"You would have grieved me very much by doing so," rejoined the kind old +gentleman. "Dr. Burge dines with me to-morrow, and I confess—not yet +calling myself a convert to these miracles which are now vouchsafed in +Foxden—it would not be amiss to rid my premises of the amiable +magicians congregated in my parlor before a minister were invited to +enter. But a layman, as I take it, might witness these thaumaturgical +matters without scandal,—nay, perchance you may help me to that +wholesome credence in their reality which my celestial visitants so +unceasingly demand."</p> + +<p>Colonel Prowley was in the state of mind not unusual to many +well-meaning, unoccupied people, when this modern necromancy was thrust +upon them by those pecuniarily or socially interested in its advocacy. +The upheaval to the air of that dark inward nature which is ever working +in us,—the startling proof of that loudly proclaimed, faintly realized +truth, that this mind, so pervading every fibre of the body, is yet +separate in its essence,—the novel gratification of the petty vanities +and petty questionings which beset undecided men,—what wonder that +persons not accustomed to sound analysis of evidence should be beguiled +by these subtilest adaptations to their conditions, and hold dalliance +with the feeble shades that imposture or enthusiasm vended about the +towns? Historical personages—a nerveless mimicry of the conventional +stage-representation of them—stalked the Colonel's parlor. Departed +friends, Indians <i>à discrétion</i>, local celebrities, Deacon Golly, who in +the year '90 took the ten first shares in the Wrexford Turnpike, the +very Pelatiah Brimble from whom "Brimble's Corner" had taken its name, +the identical Timson forever immortal in "Timson's Common,"—these +defunct worthies were audibly, visibly, or tangibly present, pecking at +great subjects in ghostly feebleness, swimming in Tupperic dilutions of +cheapest wisdom, and finally inducing in their patrons strange +derangements of mind and body.</p> + +<p>The circle, which was very select, consisted of three highly susceptible +ladies and Stellato as medium-in-chief. Miss Turligood, a sort of +Oroveso to the Druidical chorus, was a muscular spinster, fierce and +forty, sporting steel spectacles, a frizette of the most scrupulous +honesty, and a towering comb which formed what the landscape-gardeners +call "an object" in the distance. Next this commanding lady, with fat +hands sprawled upon the table, sat Mrs. Colfodder, widow, according to +the flesh, of a respectable Foxden grocer. By later spiritual +communications, however, it appeared that matters stood very +differently; for no sooner had the departed Colfodder looked about him a +little in the world to come than he proceeded to contract marriage with +Queen Elizabeth of England, thereby leaving his mortal relict quite free +to receive the addresses of the late Lord Byron, whose proposals were of +the most honorable as well as amatory character. Miss Branly, by far the +most pleasing of the lady-patronesses, was a fragile, stove-dried +mantua-maker,—and, truly, it seemed something like poetic justice to +recompense her depressed existence with the satisfactions of a material +heaven full of marryings and givings in marriage.</p> + +<p>"Will Sir Joseph tip for us again?" inquired Miss Turligood, with her +eyes fixed upon a crack in the mahogany table. "Will he? Will he not? +Will he?"</p> + +<p>Sir Joseph vouchsafed no answer.</p> + +<p>"Hark! wasn't that a rap?" cried Stellato, in a husky whisper.</p> + +<p>Here every one pricked an ear towards the table.</p> + +<p>"Doctor Franklin, is that you?"</p> + +<p>"The Doctor promised to be present to give a scientific and +philosophical view of these communications," parenthesized the +interrogator.</p> + +<p>"Doctor Franklin, is that <i>you</i>?"</p> + +<p>A faint creaking is audible.</p> + +<p>"Byron's sign, as I'm a living woman!" ejaculated the Widow Colfodder.</p> + +<p>"Her spiritual partner and guardian-angel," explained Miss +Turligood,—and this for my satisfaction as the last-comer.</p> + +<p>Direct examination by the widow:—</p> + +<p>"Have you brought your patent lyre here to-night?"</p> + +<p>For the enlightenment of the company:—</p> + +<p>"He played the lyre so beautiful on earth, that when he got to the +spheres a committee gave him a golden one, with all the modern +improvements."</p> + +<p>Question concerning the lyre repeated. A mysterious rubbing interpreted +as an affirmative reply.</p> + +<p>"Have you brought Pocahontas with you? (she 'most always comes with +him)—and if so, can she kiss me to-night?"</p> + +<p>The table is exceedingly doubtful.</p> + +<p>"Could she kiss Colonel Prowley, or even pull his hair a little?"</p> + +<p>No certainty of either.</p> + +<p>"Can she kiss Miss Turligood?"</p> + +<p>The table is satisfied that it couldn't be done.</p> + +<p>"Let me try her," urged Stellato, with the confidence of an expert; then +in seductive tones,—</p> + +<p>"Couldn't Pocahontas kiss Miss Branly, if all the lights were put out?"</p> + +<p>Pocahontas thought it highly probable that she could.</p> + +<p>Here some interesting badgering. Miss Branly declined being kissed in +the dark. Miss Turligood thought it would be very satisfactory, if she +would, and couldn't see why any one should object to it. She (Miss +Turligood) would willingly be kissed in the dark, or in the light, in +furtherance of scientific investigation.</p> + +<p>Stellato suggested a compromise.</p> + +<p>"Might not the kissing be done through a medium?"</p> + +<p>At first the table thought it couldn't, but afterwards relented, and +thought it might.</p> + +<p>"Would Pocahontas appoint that medium?"</p> + +<p>She would.</p> + +<p>"Should the alphabet be called?"</p> + +<p>It should not.</p> + +<p>"Would the table tip towards the medium indicated?"</p> + +<p>It could not be done.</p> + +<p>"Should somebody call over the names of all mediums present, and would +the table tip at the right one?"</p> + +<p>Ah, that was it!</p> + +<p>"I suppose you and I have no share in this Gift Enterprise," whispered +Colonel Prowley.</p> + +<p>"Order! order!" shouted Miss Turligood, glancing in our direction with +great severity. "This general conversation cannot be permitted. We are +about to have a most interesting manifestation.—Pocahontas, do you wish +me to call over the names?"</p> + +<p>Pocahontas did not object.</p> + +<p>"Very well, then, you will tip when I come to the name of the medium +through whom you consent to kiss Miss Sarah Branly?"</p> + +<p>Pocahontas certainly would.</p> + +<p>"Is it Mrs. Colfodder?"</p> + +<p>No reply.</p> + +<p>"Is it I, Eugenia Turligood?"</p> + +<p>No, it certainly was not.</p> + +<p>"Well, then, I suppose it must be Mr. Stellato!"</p> + +<p>Here the table was violently convulsed, as if somebody were pulling it +very hard upon Mr. Stellato's side, and somebody else holding it with +rigid firmness upon the other.</p> + +<p>"<i>Is</i> it Mr. Stellato?"</p> + +<p>Convulsion repeated.</p> + +<p>"I don't think you stopped long enough at Mrs. Colfodder's name," +interposed Miss Branly. "I am sure the table was going to move, if you +had given it time."</p> + +<p>"Nothing easier than to try again," responded Miss Turligood. "Is it +Mrs. Colfodder?"</p> + +<p>This time the table fairly sprang into the lap of the lady indicated.</p> + +<p>And so that worthy widow arose and saluted—or rather Pocahontas, +through her mediumship, arose and saluted—Miss Sarah Branly. And the +skeptic will please take notice that this extraordinary manifestation is +neither enlarged nor magnified, but that it actually happened precisely +as is here set down.</p> + +<p>After this, Mr. Stellato, being put under inspiration, delivered a +discursive homily upon the "New Dispensation" which was at present +vouchsafed to the citizens of Foxden. He testified to the great relief +of getting clear of the "Old Theology,"—meaning thereby such +interpretations of Scripture as are held by the mass of our New-England +churches. Moreover, he would announce his personal satisfaction in +having, under spiritual guidance, eradicated every vestige of belief in +hell,—a circumstance upon which, it is needless to say, that a +gentleman of his profession might be honestly congratulated. With a +view, as I could not help thinking, to my peculiar necessities, Stellato +finally enlarged upon what he termed "the principle of the thing," or, +as he otherwise phrased it, "a scientific explanation of the way the +spirits worked mediums,"—"<i>sperrets</i>" and "<i>meejums</i>" according to +celestial pronunciation, but I am loath to disturb the carnal +orthography. This philosophical exposition, drawled forth in +interminable sentences, was a dark doctrine to the uninitiated. There +was a good deal about "Essences," which, at times, seemed to relate to +the perfumery vended in the fancy-department of apothecaries' shops, and +then again to some obscure matters of "Zones," "Interiors," "Magnetic +Relations," and the like. The central revelation, if I remember rightly, +had to do with a sort of putty, by which, according to the Stellato +cosmogony, Chaos had been stuck together into a Universe. This adhesive +composition was known as "Detached Vitalized Electricity." And having +got upon this sounding title, which conveyed no meaning whatever to the +"undeveloped" understanding, Stellato was profuse in windy talk. This +Detached Vitalized Electricity, spread out over space, connected the +parts of all systems; it appeared at that very instant in the form of +"power" about Miss Turligood's head; in short, it diluted all stray bits +of modern rhetoric, all exploded feats of ancient magic, into the +thinnest of spiritual gruel, which was to supersede the strong meat upon +which the Puritan walked before his Maker.</p> + +<p>Somebody summoned the eminent Twynintuft. Like every spirit that was +ever called for, this ex-elocutionist happened to be within a few +seconds' flight of the circle, and had nothing in the world to do but to +swoop down and tip as long as the company could possibly endure him.</p> + +<p>The following information was elicited by affirmative or negative +replies to the interrogatories of those present:—</p> + +<p>The spirit communicating was Twynintuft, grandfather to Mrs. Widesworth. +Was unable to give his Christian name. Thought Mrs. Colfodder's lungs in +a healthy condition. Could not undertake to move the table when no hands +were upon it. If the room were made totally dark, would attempt that +curious experiment. Was unable to give the maiden name of his earthly +wife. Thought Mr. Stellato was a healing-medium of great power. Had been +something of a Root-Doctor when in the body, and would gladly prescribe +through that gentleman for the cure of all diseases. Considered mineral +medicines destructive to the vital principle. Doctor Dastick, being a +drug-doctor, would not be recognized by any medical association in the +spheres. Would give any information about the fixed stars. The +inhabitants of the Milky Way telegraphed to each other by means of the +Detached Vitalized Electricity. Also, they bottled up the same to cure +humors. Would privately impart their recipe to Mr. Stellato. It could +not be afforded upon this earth at less than three dollars a bottle. +Would, however, authorize an exception in favor of clergymen, when they +gave certificates of cures. <i>The spirits did not recognize +Fast-Day</i>,—it was a remnant of the Old Mythological Religion. Demanded +further investigation, and promised greater marvels in future.</p> + +<p>Here Miss Turligood became violently convulsed, and, having slapped the +table some forty times or more, seized a pencil and began to write:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"<span class="smcap">Dear Prowley</span>,—Surrounded by a bank of +silver-tunicked attendants, I hover near you. The atmosphere is +redolent of costly herbs, which, with the well-known rotary +motion of the earth, impart density and spacefulness to our +spheral persons: this is the philosophy of our presence. Many +shining friends, supported upon fluted pillars, are with you +this evening. These grieve at your lack of faith, and flap +gold-bespattered wings in unison. Spherically yours,</p> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">Sir Joseph Barley</span>."</p></div> + +<p>"Why does he sign himself <i>Sir</i>?" inquired Colonel Prowley, rather taken +aback at the sudden termination of this exquisite composition.</p> + +<p>It was evidently an oversight, for the medium's hand erased the +offending title.</p> + +<p>"When did Sir Joseph die?" I ventured to ask.</p> + +<p>"That I cannot tell you," replied his late correspondent. "I have heard +nothing from him for several months. When he last wrote, he was +suffering under a severe influenza which must have terminated fatally. +But why not ask <i>him</i> the question?"</p> + +<p>"That is just my purpose.—Sir Joseph Barley, can you give me the date +of your death?"</p> + +<p>"It is hard for spirits to give numbers," said Mr. Stellato.</p> + +<p>"It is sometimes done by tips," quoth Miss Turligood.</p> + +<p>I pressed the demand, and, after much cajoling and counting, a certain +day of March was fixed upon.</p> + +<p>"Can you give me the place?"</p> + +<p>I was instructed to call over the names of such foreign cities as I +might remember, and assured that Sir Joseph would tip at the right one.</p> + +<p>It turned out to be "London."</p> + +<p>"And now, Sir Joseph, could you oblige me with the name of the physician +who attended your last sickness?"</p> + +<p>But no sooner had I propounded this final query than Mr. Stellato +declared his consciousness of a skeptical influence in the company which +would go far to impede other manifestations. Where people were not +harmonial, he explained, the Detached Vitalized Electricity being unable +to unite with the Imponderable Magnetic Fluid given off by mediums, +satisfactory results could not be obtained.</p> + +<p>"But we have at least obtained this satisfaction," said I, addressing +Colonel Prowley: "Sir Joseph has committed himself about the day and +place of his decease. You must soon hear from some member of his family. +If these particulars have been correctly given, there will be, at least, +the beginning of evidence upon which to establish his identity."</p> + +<p>Mrs. Colfodder was so shocked with the perversity of unbelief which she +detected in this harmless remark, that, nudging Miss Branly, she +solemnly arose and moved to break up the circle for the night. And as it +was already past nine o'clock, no violent objection was made to the +proposition.</p> + +<p>"The circle will meet in this place to-morrow morning at eight o'clock, +for the pursuance of further investigations," proclaimed Miss Turligood, +in sonorous accents.</p> + +<p>"Fast-Day, Madam," mildly suggested Colonel Prowley.</p> + +<p>"The spirits do not recognize Fast-Day. Tomorrow at eight o'clock. In +this place. Let every medium be punctual. It is to be <i>hoped</i> that the +<i>conditions</i> will <i>then</i> be <i>favorable</i>!"</p> + +<p>This latter aspiration, with its feminine redundancy of emphasis, was +cast in my direction, as Miss Turligood swept haughtily from the room.</p> + +<p>Her final exit, however, was neither curt nor in any way effective. For +it was no easy matter to gather up the bags, parcels, shawls, and other +devices which the good lady had brought with her and scattered about the +entry. One India-rubber shoe in particular eluded our search, till I was +ready to admit the supposition that the spirits had carried it off, as +entirely reasonable and satisfactory. A good-natured Irishman, servant +to Miss Turligood, who had come with a lantern to see her home, at +length discovered this missing bit of apparel upon Miss Branly's +foot,—that medium, as it appeared, having in a fit of abstraction +appropriated three. Finally the lantern glimmered down the gravel-walk, +and Mr. Stellato, with a lady upon each arm, was persuaded to follow it. +It was waking from a nightmare to get rid of them.</p> + +<p>"Over at last!" exclaimed Miss Prowley, when we returned to the +drawing-room. She had been sitting in silence in an obscure corner, and +I had scarcely realized her presence. "Over at last! and of all +fatiguing and unprofitable employments that the folly of man ever +devised, this trifling with spirits is certainly the chief."</p> + +<p>"Nay, my dear," urged the brother, in his placid way, "these good people +who have fastened themselves upon us seem so anxious to continue the +investigation that I cannot find it in my heart to refuse them. I <i>did</i> +wish, to be sure, that we might have our Fast-Day in quiet; but Miss +Turligood, who knows much more about the matter than we do, thinks the +spirits would not like it, if we did, and so—although we will absent +ourselves from the sitting long enough to go to church—we must really +make the best of it, and receive the circle."</p> + +<p>"You speak like a believer, Colonel Prowley," I said.</p> + +<p>"No, not quite that," replied the old gentleman,—"yet, truly, I +sometimes hardly know why I am not. The knockings alone are quite +inexplicable; and when it comes to a fiery hand ringing the dinner-bell, +which Stellato can show in the dark——Besides, there are the +communications from distinguished characters, many of them so very +important and interesting. To be sure, my poor cousin Barley did not do +himself justice this evening, though some of his ideas were very +poetical; but, really, the other night, when he told us how much the +Royal Sextons were thought of in the spheres, and repeated that very +high compliment which Thomas Herne paid to my family-history, it all +seemed so marvellous, and yet so natural, that I could not help +subscribing pretty handsomely to the cause."</p> + +<p>"And one of the privileges that your subscription has gone to purchase I +am yet to enjoy. Dr. Burge wished me to visit, in his company, your +former pastor, Mr. Clifton,—and we must look for him, as I see, at the +Spiritualists' Festival in the Town Hall."</p> + +<p>"Sad! sad!" cried Colonel Prowley, thoughtfully chewing upon my remark. +"It is an abiding shame for a minister of the gospel to meddle with +these things, except, possibly, in the way of exorcism. Truly, a deep +humiliation has fallen upon the town."</p> + +<p>And the chagrin of this respected gentleman was wholly sincere. The +Puritanical distinction between clergy and laity had scarcely faded in +his mind. The pastor of the First Church had belonged to a cherished +class,—a class whose moral and intellectual consequence must be +maintained by avoidance of all dangerous inquiries, common interests, +and secular amusements. A minister attending a Jenny-Lind +Charity-Concert in a play-house, or leading armed men in the most sacred +cause for which human blood might be shed,—what offences would these +have been to this titular Colonel of Foxden, who had won his honors by a +six-months' finery and dining as aide-de-camp to some forgotten +Governor!</p> + +<p>"I fear I shall not be back before you wish to close the house."</p> + +<p>"Never mind, you remember the old arrangement: door-key under the +scraper,—light burning in the drawing-room."</p> + +<p>With hearty thanks I went forth to keep my appointment with Dr. Burge.</p> + + +<h3>II.</h3> + +<p>The narrative here takes us to a portion of the shadowy perturbation +which any who have turned these pages as a fictitious rendering of the +grotesque in experience will do well to omit. Only a mortifying, though +perchance salutary, sense of human infirmity comes from beholding one +set over the people as intercessor and counsellor struggling in the +meshes of that snare which the Enemy had spread for the undisciplined +and wandering multitude. No, not even struggling now. That Clifton had +fought through solitary days against the wretched enervation which +invited him, I had reason to know. But he had dared to tamper with the +normal functions of mind and body, to try fantastic tricks with that +mysterious agent through which the healthy will commands the organism. +And when the mental disorder, mocked at and preached against in happier +years, at length ran through Foxden, the morbid condition of his system +was powerless to resist the contagion.</p> + +<p>And let us not overlook the fact that in these manifestations there was +to be found a palpable reality, a positive marvel, well calculated to +lay hold of a skeptic like Clifton. His early associations with the +Transcendentalists had undermined his faith in all popular presentations +of Christianity. But his peculiarly emotional nature could never dwell +in that haziness of opinion upon august subjects in which sounder men +among the brethren made out to live cheerfully and to work vigorously. +While Clifton madly sought a position of intelligence and satisfaction +beyond the reach of humanity, the necessary abstraction enlarged and +stimulated his reasoning powers. But the penalty was to be paid. For +with terrible recoil from its tension his mind contracted to far less +than normal limits. Then came a listless vacuity, a tawdry dreaminess. +And this poor minister, who flattered himself that he had outgrown every +graceful and touching form with which human affection or human infirmity +had clothed the Christian idea, stumbled amid the rubbish of an effete +heathenism, with its Sibylline contortions and tripod-responses, which +the best minds of Pagan civilization found no difficulty in pronouncing +a delusion and a lie.</p> + +<p>I knew Dr. Burge for one of those most useful instructors who will +patiently examine with the intellect what the instinct teaches them to +condemn. He seldom helped the doctrine he assailed by denying it such +facts as were true and such attractions as were real. He had cheerfully +accepted whatever reproach came to him from frequenting circles in the +attempt to see the mystery from the believers' point of view. I was not +surprised at finding him upon one of the back benches in the Town Hall.</p> + +<p>"Nothing noteworthy," he said, as I joined him. "Only women have +spoken,—the excited nervous system careering without restraint,—no +spirits yet."</p> + +<p>"They pretend inspiration, I suppose."</p> + +<p>"Oh, yes; and it is not surprising that semi-educated people, ignorant +of analogous phenomena, should take the <i>omne ignotum pro magnifico</i>."</p> + +<p>"Yet you are said to be a believer in the possession which the mediums +claim?"</p> + +<p>"Certainly," replied Dr. Burge, "and to just this extent:—I do not +doubt the possibility of intercourse between man and the lower grades of +immaterial life, and I am willing to adopt this hypothesis to explain +any occurrence where the facts demand it. That, in rare cases, such may +be the most simple and natural supposition, I readily admit. The +ordinary performances, however, may be accounted for without calling in +god or demon to untie the knot."</p> + +<p>I remarked that Mr. Clifton was not to be seen upon the platform.</p> + +<p>"He is kept out of the way until the last,—in the Selectmen's Room, as +I am told, and alone."</p> + +<p>"I fear all appeal would now be in vain; yet, Sir, I would not have you +spare an effort to awaken him to the peril of his course."</p> + +<p>"Let us go to him, then," assented Dr. Burge.</p> + +<p>Upon common occasions, the Selectmen's Room failed to suggest any +exceptional character in its occupants. It was a narrow, ill-lighted, +unventilated apartment, bitter with the after-taste of taxes, +prophetically flavorous of taxes yet to be. Stove-accommodation beyond +the criticism of the most fastidious salamander, a liberal sprinkling of +sand with a view to the ruminant necessities of the town-patricians, two +or three stiff armchairs with straws protruding from their well-worn +cushions, intolerant benches for unofficial occupancy,—altogether a +gloomy aggregate result of the diverse ideals of social well-being to be +found among the inhabitants of Foxden. But now I recognized a new +element in this familiar chamber; a strange contagion hung about the +walls; a something which imparted delicate edge to the nervous system +was perceptible in the dry heat of the air. Near an oracular table, +which bore evidence of recent manipulation, stood the Reverend Charles +Clifton: others had evidently been with him before our entrance; he was +now alone. An oil-lamp sputtered feebly in the corner. The stove-devil +glared at us through his one glazed eye, and puffed out his mephitic +welcome as I shut the door.</p> + +<p>"Clifton, my old friend!" exclaimed Dr. Burge.</p> + +<p>The person addressed raised his head, half closed his eyes, as one who +endeavors to fix objects which are flitting before him. It seemed +necessary to withdraw his inward gaze from some delicious dazzlement of +dream-land. At last he spoke slowly and with effort.</p> + +<p>"Burge, you here?—and one of us?"</p> + +<p>"Heaven forbid!" cried my companion. "I but look upon these things for +my own warning, and in the way of my duty as teacher to those who might +be disposed to tamper with unknown powers, within or without."</p> + +<p>"Say, rather, to melt the iron links which gyve soul to body," said +Clifton, in constrained articulation, through which a moaning undertone +seemed ever trying to be heard. "Say, rather, to produce a finer +exaltation than wine, opium, or hashish,—for it is most sweet to +subject the animal organism to the control of spirit-wills."</p> + +<p>"A grateful doctrine to those who dare to substitute a morbid +receptivity for an active endeavor!"</p> + +<p>"It is to soothe the sense-powers, so that others may use them to give +us intimations far beyond their common capacity."</p> + +<p>"'<i>I</i> keep under my body and bring it into subjection,'" quoted Dr. +Burge, emphasizing the personal pronoun. "The Apostle declares that his +own immortal individuality alone controls his members,—and why? 'lest, +when I have preached unto others, I myself should become a castaway.'"</p> + +<p>The Doctor delivered the last sentence with rich cathedral-emphasis, and +with the full unction of priestly authority.</p> + +<p>Clifton, or whatever vague and dusky power controlled him, cowered at +the rebuke. The nervous energy with which he had experimented, or which +he had left passive for the experiments of others, seemed withdrawn from +his frame.</p> + +<p>Dr. Burge perceived his advantage, and continued:—</p> + +<p>"I speak to you, my fallen brother, as I cannot speak to the foolish +people who grope in this miasma of delusion. Silly women, yielding to +the natural vanity of their sex, may mistake hysterics for inspiration. +Vacillating and vacant men may seek a new sensation by encouraging a +revival of the demoniacal epidemics of heathendom. But you, who have +been a preacher of the gospel, though, as I must now more than ever +believe, after a devitalized and perverted method,—you, to leave the +honest work of a dweller upon earth, to chatter of immensity, to weaken +the brain that it may no longer separate the true from the +false!—believe me, Clifton, you have been bought by the shallowest +promises which the King of Evil ever exchanged for a sacred and +inviolable soul."</p> + +<p>"You have spoken according to your business," replied Mr. Clifton, +impatiently. "You, who begin by assuming the impossibility of +spirit-intercourse since Bible times, with what candor can you examine +the facts we build upon?"</p> + +<p>"I make no such assumption," was the rejoinder. "Has it not been +foretold that 'in the latter times some shall depart from the faith, +giving heed to seducing spirits and doctrines of devils'? Have we not +aforetime been vexed with them in this very New England? For I almost +justify Mather's words, when he stigmatizes the necromancy of his day as +'a terrible Plague of Evil Angels,' or, in still plainer speech, as 'a +prodigious descent of devils upon divers places near the centre of this +Province.' And how better can we characterize this confused and +distracting babblement which gives no good gift to man?"</p> + +<p>"It has given him this," exclaimed Clifton, advancing towards Dr. Burge, +and seeming for a few moments to resume his old personality,—"it has +given him the knowledge of a life to come! You think it, preach it, +believe it,—but you do not <i>know</i> it. A susceptibility to impressions +from the inmost characters of men has been mine through life. It has +been given me to perceive what facts and feelings most deeply adhered in +the mental consciousness. And I tell you, Burge, ministers both of your +communion and of mine repeat the old words of sublimest assurance, sway +congregations with descriptions bright or lurid of future worlds, yet +behind all this glowing speech and blatant confidence there has +lurked,—oh, will you deny it?—there has lurked a grovelling doubt of +man's immortality."</p> + +<p>"I will not deny it," said Dr. Burge, with slow solemnity. "Sinners that +we are, how can we ask that faith be at no moment confused by the +thousand cries of infidelity which our profession requires us to answer? +Let my soul be chilled by transient shades of skepticism, rather than +dote in a blind and puerile credulity! If I am not at all times equally +penetrated by the great fact of man's conscious immortality, it is +because of my undesert. A way to <i>know</i> of the doctrine has been +revealed: it is by doing the will of the Father: who of us has fulfilled +the condition? But I can meet you on lower ground, and declare, that, +according to our human observation, it is not well for man to <i>know</i> the +destiny of his being in all its details until the trials and victories +of life have taught him to turn such knowledge to elevating use. It is +the deplorable sinfulness of our nature which seeks to obtain without +deserving, to possess the end and despise the appointed means."</p> + +<p>Some reply would doubtless have been made to these pertinent +considerations, had not the confused tramp of a committee been heard at +the door. The professors of the "New Dispensation" had come to conduct +the Reverend Charles Clifton to their platform. The distinguished +convert shuddered, as if affected by some incorporeal presence, and +suffered himself to be led away.</p> + +<p>"I can do nothing more," murmured Dr. Burge; "and why should I stay to +hear diluted rhetoric, or inflated commonplace, from lips which, however +unworthily, once proclaimed the simplicity of the gospel?"</p> + +<p>"Because it is not well to prejudge what may offer some possible variety +in this credence," I ventured to suggest.</p> + +<p>"You are right; we will stay."</p> + +<p>A murmur of applause followed the appearance of Clifton upon the +platform,—yet it was only a murmur; for the flock, long pastured upon +delicate delusions, received as matter of course whatever shepherding +chance offered. Did not the face of the medium wear an expression of +earthly disappointment at this slender recognition? Could it be that +there was needed the hot-house heat of a carnal "success" to favor this +exquisite flowering of the spirit? Can we suppose that this whole matter +was no other than some Yankee patent to avoid the awful solitude in +which each human soul must enter into relations with the unseen?</p> + +<p>Slowly and in dreamy heaviness the discourse began. The inspirational +claims seemed to lie in the manifest improbability of a man of Clifton's +cultivation being so dull and diffuse in a natural condition. Yet, as +the message wore on, it cannot be denied that a strange influence was at +work. The words followed each other with greater fluency and in richer +abundance. The meaning, to be sure, was still vague enough; and whenever +some commonplace truth or plausibility protruded from the general +washiness, it was seized upon and beaten and stretched to the last +degree of tenuity. Phrases upon phrases of gorgeous dreaminess. A +soothing delight,—yet such delight as only the bodily senses demanded. +A joyful deliverance from the bondage of intellectual life. Hints that +our human consciousness of sin was a vain delusion from which the +"developed" man was happily delivered. "Come up here," said the +preacher, in substance, "and escape from this moral accountability which +sits so heavily upon you. Here is a sensuous paradise, sweet and +debilitating, offering varied delights to the eclecticism of personal +taste. All angular and harsh things may be dissolved in copious floods +of words, and washed into a ravishing, enervating Universe."</p> + +<p>An hour—two hours—passed. The air was thick and poisonous. Attention +had been strained to the utmost. Other things were to be noted by those +accustomed to regard mental disorder from a physiological point of view.</p> + +<p>And now, by some abnormal mode of cerebral activity, the trance-speaker +won strange sympathies from his auditors. Certain faculties in Clifton +had reached an expansion not permitted to the healthy man. A plastic +power came from him and took the impress of other minds. Old experiences +groped out of forgotten corners and haunted the discourse. At one time +it seemed as if all that was potential in the culture of the medium or +his audience might be stimulated into specious blossom. Phenomena were +exhibited which transcended the conscious powers of the human +soul,—nay, which testified of its latent ability to work without +organic conditions. Our unemployed brain-organs, as Hamilton and others +have clearly proved, are always employing themselves. And from this +self-employment—or was it demon-employment?—there swept through the +consciousness a vague delirium of excitement. In all that assembly a +single pulse beat feverish measures. The climax was reached. Without was +the soft spring night veiling the scarcely touched range of knowledge +and beauty offered to the healthy energies of man; within were dazed +wanderers in a region of morbid emotion, seeking to intensify the colors +of Nature, willing to waste precious vitality in conjurations of the +dead.</p> + +<p>The wretched thraldom was over,—and what had it left?</p> + +<p>An exquisite sensitiveness of the nerves of sense, imagination exalted, +memory goaded, reason and judgment overthrown.</p> + + +<h3>III.</h3> + +<p>In his Fast-Day sermon Dr. Burge delivered himself of much weighty +testimony against those thaumaturgical incantations of heathenism which +had been revived among us. With his splendor of clerical pause and +emphasis he read the denunciations against a sinful nation to which the +prophet Isaiah has affixed the awful words,—"Saith the Lord, the Lord +of Hosts."</p> + +<p>"And they shall fight every one against his brother, and every one +against his neighbor, city against city, and kingdom against kingdom."</p> + +<p>Here the preacher's dark eyes left the sacred volume, and seemed to gaze +upon some coming struggle in which the sins of the people would meet a +bloody retribution. Then, referring to the page, he pronounced with +bitterness of holy indignation the prophetic curse which was that day +fulfilled in our cherished New England.</p> + +<p>"And they shall seek to the idols, and to the charmers, and to them that +have familiar spirits, and to the wizards."</p> + +<p>The sermon made no more visible impression upon the sinful portion of +the congregation than homilies against novel and pleasant indulgences +are wont to do.</p> + +<p>"The Apostle was right, after all," said Colonel Prowley, quoting the +text upon the meeting-house steps; "we <i>should</i> 'try the spirits.'"</p> + +<p>"No objection to that," said the post-master; "but here's Dr. Burge +tells us to keep out of their way, and call them all humbugs, without +trying them at all."</p> + +<p>The gentleman referred to joined our party upon the meeting-house +green, and accompanied us home.</p> + +<p>As we entered the house, our ears were saluted by a sort of scuffling +noise, with an accompaniment of broken English. Miss Turligood, highly +charged with the Detached Vitalized Electricity, or some stimulant of +equal potency, ran to meet us in the entry, to enjoin silence and a +passive state of mind before entering the parlor. The manifestations +during service had been most wonderful. Twynintuft had lifted the table +to the ceiling, with Mr. Stellato clinging to the legs. Mrs. Colfodder +had had her back-hair taken down, and the housemaid was certain that +somebody tried to kiss her.</p> + +<p>We made for the parlor with all convenient speed. Notwithstanding the +solemn adjurations of Dr. Burge, we entertained guilty hopes of seeing +some of the marvels which had become such positive drugs in our absence. +But to <i>see</i> anything was, for a long time, out of the question; for the +spirits had insisted upon having the shutters closed, and shawls pinned +up before the cracks in the same, ere they would favor mortals with an +exhibition. Finally, dim outlines revealed themselves through the +obscurity. We made out a female figure (it was the cook, so Miss Prowley +whispered) who was haranguing the assembly at the rate of a word every +thirty seconds, or thereabouts.</p> + +<p><i>Cook as Twynintuft:</i>—"I am Mister Twynintuft. I set lots by you all. I +left my bright spirit-home to come here to-day. The squashes was musty +afore they was brought into the house. No blame to the cook. Them +pickled termarterses couldn't keep into spring, and so I tell you now. +The spheres is a dry place, and everythin' is most a-beautiful here."</p> + +<p><i>Betty, the housemaid, loquitur.</i>—(She appears in the character of +Red-Jacket, a popular personation upon these occasions,—it being very +easy to talk <i>Indian</i> by the simple recipe of transposing the nominative +and objective cases of the personal pronoun.) "Me don't like what you +say, old Twyney! I's name's Red-Jacket. Pale-face give fire-water to I. +The squashes was good enough till cook left 'em out in the rain. Me have +hunting-ground in fifth sphere. When me puts up tomatoes in the +spirit-world, me rosins 'em when they bile. Great influence comes from I +to-day; also, much development."</p> + +<p>"Dr. Burge," whispered I, "you claim to have devoted some time to the +examination of these delusions; but I will venture to say you have never +witnessed anything so humiliating as this!"</p> + +<p>"My dear Sir," murmured the Doctor in return, "the remark shows you to +be a novice indeed. Why, I have listened to hours of no better drivel +than this, fathered, not upon Indians and unknown elocutionists, but +upon some of the wisest and most saintly spirits whose mortal teachings +ever blessed mankind."</p> + +<p>"Do you think these people voluntary impostors?"</p> + +<p>"No; it would be nearer the truth to say that they are voluntary victims +of a mental epidemic like that which developed itself in the St. Vitus's +dance of the Middle Ages. The subjects of that disease went through the +same spasms, convulsions, and painful racking of the limbs which +accompany such cases of this personation as are not designed deceptions. +Even those accidentally present, when the effects of the ancient +contagion were exhibited, became infected and were irresistibly impelled +to join in the extravagance. Look at Miss Turligood and Mr. Stellato, +and see if the parallel is not supported."</p> + +<p>The individuals named were seen to be twisting themselves up and making +an awkward sort of obeisance to the housemaid, who (still as Red-Jacket) +thus delivered herself:—</p> + +<p>"Me goin' to dancey war-dance. Great Spirit sends lots more Indians come +dancey too."</p> + +<p>A cry of acquiescence,—perchance intended for a ghostly war-whoop,—and +the beloved of my Lord Byron broke into a savage polka.</p> + +<p>Stellato seized a paper-knife, and proceeded to scalp a chair with +merciless ferocity.</p> + +<p>Those unfortunate ladies, Miss Branly and Miss Turligood, were unable to +resist the infection, and so sprang among the party, whirled about, and +exhibited absurdities painful and unnecessary to relate.</p> + +<p>"By the Muse of my ancestor the Poet!" exclaimed Colonel Prowley, +indignantly, "I will no longer endure this clumsy travesty of that +choric saltation with which Apollo was said to inspire his Pythian +virgins. Dr. Burge, you will oblige me by pulling down that shawl! +Sister, you will please to open the shutters of the south window!"</p> + +<p>The requests were instantly complied with. The wholesome sunlight burst +into the room, and checked, as if by magic, the unseemly mumming of +these deluded convulsionaries. Mrs. Colfodder sank down exhausted upon +the sofa. Betty ceased to be Red-Jacket. Mr. Stellato gave up his +scalping-knife, flopped feebly upon a chair, and again became a +transparent jelly-fish of philosophy and water. It was harder to bring +Miss Turligood to herself, by reason of the singular intractability of +the squaw who had taken possession of the premises, and was only to be +dislodged by much tediousness of argument and adjuration. At length, +however, even this was accomplished. The Indians sulked off into space, +and their terrestrial mediums once more prepared to collect about the +table.</p> + +<p>"Why, bless me! past one, I declare!" said Miss Turligood, consulting +her watch. "How spirits do make the time pass! A brief adjournment for +dinner will now take place. The circle will meet for renewed +investigation this afternoon at three o'clock. Every member will be +punctual. Remember, in this place, at three o'clock."</p> + +<p>"Stay," said Miss Prowley, in a gentle, but at the same time decided +tone; "it will not be convenient to us to receive this party again. The +presence of friends from the city, who are in Foxden only for the day, +renders a meeting this afternoon out of the question. And having once +broken up our regular sittings, it will not be worth while to resume +them,—at least, here."</p> + +<p>"But, Madam, Madam, you forget that the spirits have positively +commanded us to hold sittings in your parlor three times a day till +further notice!" gasped Miss Turligood, in extreme astonishment.</p> + +<p>"I do not recognize the authority of the spirits. They have no right to +dictate the uses of my parlor."</p> + +<p>Here was a confession indeed on the part of Miss Prowley. <i>Not recognize +the authority of the spirits!</i> Miss Turligood fairly staggered, when she +heard the impious announcement. The smooth sciolist Stellato rallied his +weak wits and uttered a cry of wonder at such flagitious heresy. The +future Lady Byron, taking as a deliberate insult any doubts of the +identity and authority of her posthumous spouse, threw up her arms in +horror, and trotted out of the house.</p> + +<p>Finally, we got rid of them all,—<i>how</i>, I don't exactly remember, and +if I did, it would not concern the reader to know. We delivered Miss +Turligood over to her Irishman, (who had brought a carryall with him +this time,) and charged him never to drive her back; Betty and the cook +were restored to the kitchen; Stellato and Miss Branly disappeared, no +one could say where.</p> + +<p>"And now," exclaimed Colonel Prowley, with a sigh of relief, "let us +forget this nonsense, and go to dinner,—for the spirits have given me +an appetite, if nothing else."</p> + +<p>"Then you intend to follow what I understand to be the teaching of your +invisible visitors," remarked Dr. Burge, pleasantly.</p> + +<p>"How so?"</p> + +<p>"You do not recognize Fast-Day."</p> + +<p>"Ha! ha!" laughed the Colonel; "I doubt if the ghosts were quite +unreasonable about that."</p> + +<p>"Nay, brother, you should tell our good minister that we have but a cold +collation, and that prepared on the previous day, as is our custom on +the Sabbath," urged Miss Prowley, with the dignity of an exact and +consistent housekeeper.</p> + +<p>"It is as well we have," was the reply; "for those precious Indians, +although wise in medicine, knew little enough about cookery. They would +have made sorry work, had it been necessary to give a culinary direction +to the inspirations of our damsels below-stairs."</p> + +<p>"And yet, after all," resumed our host, meditatively, and after a +moment's pause, "it seems scarcely right to make a jest of this matter; +for, although the manifestations of to-day have been ridiculous +enough,—yet—really—when I think of some of those instructive +observations of poor Sir Joseph Barley"——</p> + +<p>The remark was never concluded, for a sudden rattling and whoaing and +bumping of baggage was heard. The interruption came from before the +front-door. The "Railroad-Omnibus" had driven up to the house.</p> + +<p>"It is, doubtless, my good friend Professor Owlsdarck," said Colonel +Prowley,—courteously rebuking an exclamation of astonishment from his +sister, who had gone to the window;—"to be sure, we did not expect him +to-day, but he is ever a most welcome guest."</p> + +<p>"But it is <i>not</i> Professor Owlsdarck!" cried the sister, in shrillest +tones of feminine amazement. "That portly figure to which the pencil of +the artist has done such feeble justice! the spectacles with the square +glasses! the enormous seal of the Sextons!—it can be but one man!"</p> + +<p>"What! you don't mean"——</p> + +<p>"Yes, but I <i>do</i> mean! Come and see for yourself!"</p> + +<p>"A ghost in an omnibus! Why, sister, sister, the +Detached—what-you-may-call-it has got into your head,—or, heavens! can +it be that our unbelief is punished with this frightful manifestation?"</p> + +<p>"It is Sir Joseph Barley himself!" ejaculated Miss Prowley.</p> + +<p>"Surrounded by his bank of silver-tunicked attendants?" gasped the +Colonel, in desperate interrogation.</p> + +<p>"No, no, nothing of the kind," said Dr. Burge, assuringly; "he has not +brought even a footman."</p> + +<p>And it <i>was</i> Sir Joseph Barley,—in the flesh,—and in a good deal of +it, too;—Sir Joseph Barley, full to overflowing with talk and +compliments. He had long planned a journey to America, and a surprise to +his Fellow-Sexton in Foxden. The trip had been necessarily postponed +from week to week, and then from month to month. Always expecting to +leave by the next steamer, he had never thought it worth while to write. +Had been on shore exactly nine hours, was delighted with the country, +and had already written the first chapter of a book about it. Was, +nevertheless, surprised to see none of the native Red Men upon the wharf +when the Canada arrived. Should have thought the spectacle would have +been both novel and imposing to them. After dinner, would, with +permission, go into the forests about Foxden, and visit this singular +people in their national wigwams.</p> + +<p>How picture the delight of hospitable Colonel Prowley, when, volubly +delivering these and other sentiments, the High Priest and Potentate +over all Sextondom entered the parlor and made himself comfortable in a +rocking-chair?</p> + +<p>There is no need to dwell upon the matronly bustle of Miss Prowley, who, +utterly ignoring the proper ordinances of the day, proceeded to send to +the hotel for a beefsteak and a bottle of British Stout which could be +warranted of genuine importation.</p> + +<p>"And stop, stop, sister!" whispered the Colonel, pursuing her to the +door; "the idea seems absurd, to be sure, but still don't you think it +barely possible, that, if Betty ran down to the river and caught a few +of those snapping-turtles sunning themselves upon the old log, we might +boil them into something which would faintly remind Sir Joseph of the +Lord Mayor's soup?"</p> + +<p>This proposition being dismissed as impracticable,—first, by reason of +the notorious unwillingness of the turtles to be caught, and, waiving +that objection, because of the length of time it would take to achieve +any passable imitation of the aldermanic dainty,—I was moved to an +<i>aside</i>-declaration to the effect that my slight observation of the +tastes of British tourists in the Federal States led to the suggestion +of <i>oysters</i> as delicacies not wholly unlikely to find favor with their +eminent guest.</p> + +<p>An explosion of impulsive gratitude responded to the hint. There was a +new "saloon" just opened in Main Street,—Betty should stop there and +leave a generous order.</p> + +<p>Well! it was some time before we were summoned to our amended dinner; +but, when we did get it, it was a dinner worth waiting for.</p> + +<p>Sir Joseph Barley—Heaven bless him!—knew nothing of that smattering of +Cosmos into which we hungry New-Englanders are wont to thrust our wits. +He bluntly declared that he had never heard of Detached Vitalized +Electricity, Woman's Rights, or Harmonial Development; also, he was +delightfully confident that—he, Sir Joseph Barley, British subject, +<i>not</i> having heard of them—they could not, by any possibility, be worth +hearing about. Moreover, he had not read a word of Carlyle, and +positively did not know of the existence of any English poet called +Browning. Dr. Burge, he thoughtfully suggested, had probably mistaken +the name; it was Byron, or possibly Bulwer, about whom he wished to +inquire. The former of these personages was a British Peer, and a writer +of some celebrity; he was, however, no longer living, having never +recovered from a fever he took at a place called Missolonghi, in +Greece;—the latter had written a book entitled "Pelham," once popular, +but now thought inferior to a series of romances known in Great Britain +as the "Waverley Novels"; these were the work of one Scott, a native of +Edinburgh, whom George IV. honored with a baronetcy,—a splendid +recompense for his great literary industry.</p> + +<p>This, and much other information, adapted to our rude plantation in the +New-England wilderness, did Sir Joseph patronizingly impart. And it was +good to meet a man with a sense of corporeal identity so honest and +satisfactory. A cynic might have said that his mind moved in rather +narrow limits. But then within those limits he was so ruddy and jubilant +that I could not but remember something Shakspeare says about the ease +of being bounded in a nutshell and yet counting one's self king of +infinite space,—were it not for bad dreams. These "bad dreams" had +never retarded the British digestion of Sir Joseph Barley. No American +citizen could, by any possibility, be so shut in measureless content. It +is only a very few of our well-to-do women of the Mrs. Widesworth +class—ladies inclining to knitting and corpulency in the afternoon of +life—who possess the like faculty of warming society with the blaze of +an ecstatic egotism. Well, there are moments—why not confess it? for is +not man body as well as soul?—when it is a relief to get away from our +mystics, system-mongers, and peerers into the future, and claim a +brotherhood after the flesh with your average Briton, who looks out of +his comfortable present only to look into his comfortable past. Yet let +this estate be temporary; for it is well to return to our thin diet, +and, instead of jolly after-dinner talk, repeat the high and aspiring +phrases of certain New-Englanders who lead the generous thought and life +of a continent. Phrases! Yes, but how many nebulous ideas, think you, +would it take to stuff out their hollowness? Nay, my objecting friend, +if the ideas are not wholly clear, nor immediately practicable, they are +seldom shallow, and never mean. If the wisdom of our true seers +sometimes seems poured out in thin dilution, it nevertheless soon +hardens to a thousand shining crystals upon men of worldly enterprise +and grasp. And why this digression? I think its suggestion lay in the +fact that Sir Joseph, being the type of the ordinary Englishman, held +and imparted a fine sunniness of temper, and a perfectly balanced +serenity,—good gifts, which, so far as my experience goes, are +possessed in full measure by only one or two exceptional Americans, and +these men of high and acknowledged genius.</p> + +<p>"I don't understand it, upon my honor," cried our visitor, after we had +endeavored to explain to him his own spiritual intrusion on the previous +evening. "I have heard of Doctor Pordage and the Dragon, and of the +Drummer of Tedworth; but when you tell a sane British subject that his +apparition comes before him, and takes, as it were, the froth off his +welcome"——</p> + +<p>"No, no, my dear friend," interrupted Colonel Prowley, "you must know +that nothing could do that! As to the obituary I had written, it may do +for some other time,—for, indeed, my felicity in such compositions has +been highly commended, and this by mundane authorities of no common +weight."</p> + +<p>"Let us change the subject," said Sir Joseph, dryly; "I have no wish to +test your powers in that direction; and so long as I don't give up the +ghost, I suppose you must."</p> + +<p>"I would only say this," observed the Colonel,—"that in your book upon +America I hope you will not fail to declare, that, in folly, deception, +and unmitigated humbug, our Foxden spirits exceed all others ever seen +or heard."</p> + +<p>"Sir Joseph Barley would be a foolish chronicler to commit himself to +any such statement," said Dr. Burge, who seemed to feel it his duty to +speak the moral <i>tag</i> to our little Fast-Day interlude. "I cannot allow +that these Foxden manifestations are one whit more silly or equivocal +than many I have seen elsewhere. This shamming the ghost of somebody +still alive is no uncommon deception: several cases of the sort have +come under my recent observation. And it is well that they sometimes +occur; for they must cause reflection in all who are not victims of a +mental disorder which seems to confound the reasoning powers of +man,—causing its subjects to accept as teachers phantoms of their +morbid imaginations, or deceiving intelligences from without. To all, I +say, but such as these, an imposition of the sort here noticed must send +reflections of our total inability to identify any pretended spirit +merely because he flatters our vanity, or talks what may seem <i>to us</i> +good morality or sound sense."</p> + +<p>Dr. Burge had laid aside his knife and fork, and had launched bravely +forth upon his theme. Sir Joseph moved uneasily. Things were getting +serious. Our host happily interposed,—</p> + +<p>"Very true, Doctor, all very true;—yet there is one piece of wisdom +regulating the spiritual practice which now seems worth considering."</p> + +<p>"And what is that, pray?"</p> + +<p>"They do not recognize Fast-Day."</p> + +<p>"Well, well," said Dr. Burge, taking the hint with the utmost +good-humor, "perhaps they were not altogether wrong there; and so I will +trouble Miss Prowley for a bit more of the steak, and——No, thank you, +no beer for me; I am a water-drinker of twenty years' standing."</p> + +<p>"The toast I am about to propose," observed Colonel Prowley, "may, with +exceeding propriety, be drunk in water,—that is, whenever +milk-and-water is not to be had:—</p> + +<p><i>"Our spiritual demagogues, much weaker than our political ones, may +they not be as much worse!"</i></p> + +<p>"And there is one other sentiment," said good Dr. Burge, brimming over +with an honest hilarity,—"a toast which I should be willing to drink in +pretty strong—coffee."</p> + +<p>"I have not forgotten that," exclaimed our host, proffering a hearty +shake of the hand to the High Senior Governour and Primitive Patriarch +of All Sextons,—</p> + +<p><i>"Health and a long life to Sir Joseph Barley!"</i></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PROSPICE" id="PROSPICE"></a>PROSPICE.</h2> + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Fear death?—to feel the fog in my throat,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The mist in my face,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the snows begin, and the blasts denote<br /></span> +<span class="i2">I am nearing the place,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The power of the night, the press of the storm,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The post of the foe;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where he stands, the Arch Fear in a visible form,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Yet the strong man must go:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For the journey is done and the summit attained,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And the barriers fall,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though a battle's to fight ere the guerdon be gained,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The reward of it all.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I was ever a fighter, so—one fight more,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The best and the last!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I would hate that Death bandaged my eyes, and forbore,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And bade me creep past.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No! let me taste the whole of it, fare like my peers<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The heroes of old,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bear the brunt, in a minute pay glad life's arrears<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Of pain, darkness, and cold.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For sudden the worst turns the best to the brave,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The black minute's at end,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the elements' rage, the fiend-voices that rave,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Shall dwindle, shall blend,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Shall change, shall become first a peace, then a joy,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Then a light, then thy breast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">O thou soul of my soul! I shall clasp thee again,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And with God be the rest!<br /></span> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="WASHINGTON_IRVING" id="WASHINGTON_IRVING"></a>WASHINGTON IRVING.</h2> + + +<p>We have, at last, a full story of the life of Mr. Irving. It is from the +hand of a near relative, who has brought to the task an almost filial +reverence, with a modest reserve of language, and a delicacy of +treatment, which, while they disarm criticism, would of themselves +suffice to attest the kinship of the writer with the distinguished +subject of his biography. It is a quiet and tranquil picture that he has +given us, of a serene and tranquil life. As we have turned it over +delightedly, chapter after chapter, and volume upon volume, we have +wished at times that the coy biographer had been endowed with a spice of +garrulity or of egotism; for, say what we will, these qualities +contribute largely to the interest with which we follow the story of a +life about whose incidents and development the public has greed of +knowledge.</p> + +<p>If Boswell had invariably governed his biographic record by the +instincts of a gentleman, we should have possessed far less wealth of +gossip by which to judge of the manhood and the familiar surroundings +of the great lexicographer. And we can readily imagine that a +conscientious man, in setting about the task of writing the life of a +favorite author, would ask himself, over and over, how much should be +yielded to the eager curiosity of the public, and how much a refined +courtesy of feeling should keep in reserve. There are men, indeed, whose +history, by whomsoever recorded, would suggest no such questioning,—men +who have elbowed their way through life, bent upon some single aim, with +a grand and coarse disregard of all the heart-burnings they may have +caused, and all the idols they may have brushed down. Washington Irving +was by no means such a man; he was kind-hearted to the last degree; and +yet, remembering as we do that sly look of humor which lurked always in +the corner of his eye, we cannot believe but that in his freer moments +he has pricked through many a bag of bombast, and made dashing onslaught +upon noisy literary pretension. Of all this, however, we find nothing in +the volumes before us,—nothing in his own books. Always, in his contact +with the world, he is genial; the face of every friend is beautiful to +him; every acquaintance is at the least comely; in rollicking Tom Moore +he sees (what all of us cannot see) a big heart,—in Espartero a bold, +frank, honest soldier,—in every fair young girl a charmer,—and in +almost every woman a fair young girl.</p> + +<p>In all these respects the biography of Mr. Pierre Irving is in fitting +accord with what we had known and believed of his eminent kinsman. And +we are delighted at being confirmed in the belief. We yield all measure +of respect for the grace, the purity, the dignity, which Washington +Irving has added to our literature; and yet we honor still more that +true American heart which beams through all his writings, and throughout +this record of his life. The rare kindliness of the man so hallows and +sublimes his memory that we half forget his artistic power, his purity +of touch, his keenness of observation, his delightful and abounding +humor.</p> + +<p>There are no storms in this life of his: it is, as we have said, a quiet +picture of a career that is full of honor indeed, full of triumphs, but +full of serenity. Here is no Don Quixote searching for enemies with whom +to do battle,—no John Knox thwacking terribly upon all heretical pates, +and sweating with his obstinacy, as much as with the vigor of his blows; +but the kindly gentleman, giving tone and beauty to the common sentiment +of us all, piquing our wonder by his adroitness, kindling our smiles by +his arch sallies, winning our admiration by his thousand graces, and our +respect by his honesty and truth.</p> + +<p>In 1797, Washington Irving, a roguish lad of fifteen, living in William +Street, in New York, and not a little rebellious against the severe +orthodoxy of his father,—who was a deacon of the Presbyterian +Church,—sometimes slipped out from his chamber, after evening prayers, +for an hour or two at the theatre; he attended school, where he stole +the reading of such books as "Robinson Crusoe," and "Sinbad the Sailor"; +and he wrote compositions for such of his fellows as would make good his +tasks in mathematics. This was a study which he never loved, and to the +last he abjured all stringency of method. The writer of this paper +remembers on one occasion asking him what system he pursued in massing +his notes for the "Life of Washington." "Don't ask me for system," said +he; "I never had any. If you want to know what a man can do by +arrangement, talk with B——; his whole mind is pigeon-holed."</p> + +<p>At sixteen we find him in a lawyer's office; he does not, like some of +his brothers, enjoy the advantages (if there be any) of a collegiate +education. But he loves law as little as he loves mathematics. Feeble +health gives occasion for frequent absences and journeyings; and it is +plain to see that he loves a voyage up the Hudson, and adventurous +travel through the wilds of Northern New York, better than he loves +Judge Livingston, or the books of his law-patron, Mr. Hoffman. He has a +scribbling mood upon him at this early day, too, and contributes to the +New-York "Morning Chronicle" certain letters of Jonathan Oldstyle, which +are remarked for their pleasant humor. At the age of twenty-one (1804) +continued ill-health suggests a sea-voyage. He leaves law and his jolly +companions,—Brevoort, Kemble, Paulding, and the rest,—and sails for +Bordeaux. He wanders through Southern Europe delightedly,—meets +Washington Allston at Rome, and is half tempted to turn painter,—sees +Humboldt, De Staël, Cooke, Siddons; and while all England is jubilant +over Nelson's victory, and all England mourning over Nelson's death, he +sails, in 1806, for home.</p> + +<p>Arrived in New York a sound man, he goes through a process of cramming +for admission to the bar, and is presently instated—attorney-at-law. +But at the very time of his examination he is concocting with James +Paulding the project of "Salmagundi," which presently enlivens and +perplexes people with the vagaries of Launcelot Langstaff. A little +after, he plans and commences the Knickerbocker History.</p> + +<p>But meantime an interesting episode of his life is developing, which by +its unfortunate issue is to give a certain color to all after-expression +of his sentiment. While in the family of Mr. Hoffman, as law-student, he +has conceived a strong attachment for his daughter; in certain +memoranda, marked "private," which come under the eyes of the biographer +only after Mr. Irving's death, he says,—"I idolized her. I felt at +times rebuked by her superior delicacy and purity, and as if I was a +coarse, unworthy being in comparison.... I saw her fade rapidly away, +beautiful, and more beautiful, and more angelical to the very last.... I +was by her when she died.... I was the last one she looked upon." The +memorandum from which this extract is taken had been originally written, +it appeared, for the eye of an intimate lady-friend abroad, to whom we +shall have occasion to refer.</p> + +<p>In 1809, at the age of twenty-six, is published his "History of New +York." There were a few punctilious Dutch families who were offended at +its sallies; but cultivated people generally welcomed its fun, its +spirit, its quiet satire, with heartiness and applause.</p> + +<p>Shortly after he entered into a commercial partnership with his +brothers, Peter and Ebenezer, of whom one was established in England, +the other in New York. In the War of 1812 we find him acting as military +aid to Governor Tompkins; and in 1815 he embarks again for Europe. He +passes many years in England, in the course of which time the commercial +firm, of which he is a member goes into bankruptcy. Upon this, he is of +course thrown adrift. But through the influence of his friends at home +he is offered the position of Chief Clerk of the Navy Department, with a +salary of twenty-four hundred dollars a year. This, however, after some +misgivings, he declines. He does not like the idea of being cramped by +official routine of duty. He will try what he can do with his pen. And +for months after making this decision (we have heard it with unction +from his own lips) he can do nothing. His friend Allston is going back +to America; Leslie is making a reputation; and he, a bankrupt, and +having wantonly thrown up the chance for a lucrative position at home, +is suddenly bereft of all capacity for literary work; he makes trial; +but it is in vain. The "Sketch-Book" is floating in his thought; but he +cannot commit its graces to paper.</p> + +<p>The months roll on; something must be done; the secretaryship at home is +abandoned; he must try again; he does try; he sends off "Sketch-Book No. +I." to America. We know what came of it: success, delight. Number upon +number followed. There was an early republication, under the author's +auspices, in London. He was fêted: it was so odd that an American should +write with such control of language, with such a play of fancy, with +such pathetic grace. There was a kind of social <i>furor</i> to meet and to +see the man who, notwithstanding his Transatlantic birth, had conquered +all the witchery of British speech, who knew its possible delicacies of +expression, and who graced it with a humor that reminded of Goldsmith.</p> + +<p>No American author had ever dreamed of such ovation before: an ovation +not due to any incisive thought, not due to any novelty of his +subject-matter,—but due to the fact that a man born overseas had +suddenly appeared among British writers, who could lay hold upon their +own resources of sentiment, and inwrap it in language which charmed them +by its grace and provoked them by its purity.</p> + +<p>Mr. Murray entered upon the publication of the "Sketch-Book" in 1820, +Mr. Irving being at that time thirty-seven years of age. Of his pleasant +intimacy with Sir Walter Scott, of his junketings in Paris, of his +meeting with Tom Moore, of his unfortunate enlistment in a +steamboat-enterprise upon the Seine, there is full and most lively +account in the "Life and Letters" before us. "Bracebridge Hall," +despatched from Paris in 1822, is received with the same favor which had +attended the publication of the "Sketch-Book"; and the pecuniary returns +are so liberal that he can lie upon his oars for a while, and (what +pleases him more) can effectually aid his brother Peter, who was a party +to the unfortunate steamboat-scheme.</p> + +<p>After this comes a merry whirl through Europe. The Rhine, Heidelberg, +Munich, Vienna, we visit again in his sparkling letters, dated forty odd +years ago. His reputation, and the good offices of French and English +friends, open an easy path for him; everywhere he finds hospitality and +acquaintances, and everywhere, by that frank, genial manner of his, he +transmutes even chance acquaintances into confidential friends. The +winter of 1822-3 is passed in the delightful city of Dresden. He meets +with a warm welcome at the little Saxon court; he has the <i>entrée</i> of a +pleasant English household, where he becomes fairly domesticated. Mrs. +Foster, its accomplished mistress, is a lady of fortune, who has two +"lovely daughters." Mr. Irving, in concert with two or three +gentlemen-friends, organizes certain home-theatricals, in which the +Misses Foster engage with ready zeal and a charming grace. There are +Italian readings, and country-excursions, to all of which Mr. Irving is +a delighted party. He hardly knows how to tear himself away from scenes +so enchanting. To Miss Foster he writes, on the occasion of a little +foray into Bohemia,—"I am almost wishing myself back already. I ought +to be off like your bird, but I feel I shall not be able to keep clear +of the cage." Mrs. Foster, with a womanly curiosity, is eager to know +how a man so susceptible as Mr. Irving, and so domestically inclined, +should have reached the mature age of forty as a bachelor. Mr. Irving +amiably gratifies her curiosity by detailing to her the story of his +early and unfortunate attachment, in the shape of the memorandum to +which we have already alluded. He closes this confidential disclosure by +saying,—"You wonder why I am not married. I have shown you why I was +not long since.... My time has now gone by; and I have growing claims +upon my thoughts, and upon my means, slender and precarious as they are. +I feel as if I had already a family to think and provide for."</p> + +<p>We have dwelt upon this little episode, not because it has any essential +importance in itself, but because it has been the subject of a most +unseemly interpolation in the British reprint of the biography. Mr. +Bentley, "Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty," was, it appears, the +purchaser, at a small sum, of the advance-sheets of the book; but, in +order to secure English copyright, he conceived the idea of introducing +extraneous matter of British origin. In prosecution of this design, he +found as <i>collaborateurs</i> the two Misses Foster above alluded to, who +are now wives of clergymen of the Church of England. Mrs. Fuller, the +elder of the sisters, and the special favorite of the author, gives upon +the whole a modest and pleasant account of their association with Mr. +Irving, and closes with a few lines which, she says, he wrote in her +scrap-book in 1832. "He declared it was impossible for him to be less in +a writing-mood." And thereupon follow the well-known lines entitled +"Echo and Silence." They certainly do not prove very much for the +writing-mood of Mr. Irving,—whatever they may prove for Sir Egerton +Brydges. The contribution of the younger sister, Mrs. Flora Dawson, is +in a somewhat exaggerated and melodramatic vein, in the course of which +she takes occasion to expend a great deal of pity upon "poor Irving," +who is made to appear in the character of a rejected suitor for the hand +of her sister. It is true that the testimony of Mr. Irving's biographer, +and of his private papers, is largely against this absurdly romantic +construction; but, although it had been perfectly authentic, it is +almost incredible that a lady of delicacy should make such blazon of the +affair, for the sake of securing a copyright to "Her Majesty's Publisher +in Ordinary." We are sorry that Mrs. Dawson has not made a better +<i>début</i> in literature. As for Mr. Bentley, we can characterize his +conduct in the matter only by the word—disgraceful. In the whole +history of griping literary piracies (of which Americans must bear their +share) we can recall no one which shows so bad a taste, and so bad a +faith, as this of Mr. Bentley, the "Publisher in Ordinary to Her +Majesty."</p> + +<p>In the year 1824 we find Mr. Irving at work in Paris chambers upon the +"Tales of a Traveller"; then follow three or four joyous and workful +years in Spain, between Madrid, Seville, and the Alhambra. We have all +tasted the fruit of that pleasant sojourn; "Columbus" is on every +library-shelf; and we remember a certain dog's-eared copy of the +"Conquest of Granada" which once upon a time set all the boys of a +certain school agog with a martial furor. How we shook our javelins at +some bewildered cow blundering into the play-ground! What piratical +forays we made upon the neighbors' orchards, after the manner of the +brave old Muley Aben Hassan! And as for the Alhambra, the tinkle of the +water in the marble basins of its court is lingering on our ears even +yet.</p> + +<p>In Spain, as elsewhere, Mr. Irving makes a circle of friends about him +whom it is hard to leave; but it must be. Accusing comrades at home say +he has deserted his country; he turns his face Westward at last, and, +full of honors, sails for New York once more, in the year 1832, at the +ripe age of forty-nine. There never was a warmer welcome given to a +returning citizen. A feast is made for him, at which all the magnates of +the city of Manhattan assist; and the author's sensibility is so touched +that he can make only stammering acknowledgments,—at which the cheers +and the plaudits are heartier than ever.</p> + +<p>After this comes the opening of that idyllic life at Sunnyside,—the +building of the gables, the gilding of the weather-cocks, the planting +of the ivies. "Astoria" and "Bonneville" and the "Tour on the Prairies" +keep his hand active and his brain in play. Near and dear relatives +relieve his bachelor home of all loneliness. Nine years or more have +passed after his return, when he is surprised—and not a little +shocked—by his appointment, at the instance of Mr. Webster, as Minister +to Madrid.</p> + +<p>He cannot resist the memories of the Alhambra, of Seville, of the +Guadalquivir. Many pleasant associations are revived in England, in +France, and not a few in the now revolutionary Spain. But it is plain to +see that the official visit is not so enjoyable as the old untrammelled +life in the Peninsula. No matter how light the duties, routine is a +harness that galls him. We can almost hear his cheer of thanksgiving as +he breaks away from it, and comes once more to his cherished home of +Sunnyside. He is not an old man yet, though he counts well into the +sixties. He contrives new additions to his cottage; he dashes off the +charming "Life of Goldsmith" at a heat. His older books come pouring +from the press, and are met with the cordial welcome of new ones.</p> + +<p>His brothers, to whom he had been so fondly knit, are all gone save one; +Brevoort is gone; Kemble is just above him, at his forge, under the lee +of the Highlands. The river by quiet Tarrytown is strung up and down +with new "gentlemen's places."</p> + +<p>He puts himself resolutely at work upon the "Life of Washington." +Frequently recurring illness, and a little shakiness in his step, warn +him that his time is nearly up. He knows it. There is only one more task +to make good. We hear of him at Mount Vernon, at Arlington, at Saratoga. +Volume by volume the work comes forward. The public welcome it,—for +they love the author, and they love the subject. Three volumes,—four +volumes; and there are rumors that the old gentleman is failing. But +whoever finds admission to that delightful home of Sunnyside meets the +old smile, the old cheer. Seventy years have shaken the frame, but have +not shaken the heartiness of the man. The jest leaps from his eye before +his lip can clothe it, as it did twenty years before. There is a +friendly pat for his little terrier, and a friendly word for his +gardener, as in the old days.</p> + +<p>The fifth volume is in progress; but there is a cough that distresses +him sorely. He pushes on, however, through his task. The step is growing +feebler and the cough more annoying. It is the year 1859, and the +seventy-seventh of his age, when, upon a certain November evening, with +one little sharp cry of pain, he falls upon his chamber-floor—dead.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>There are men whose works we admire, but for whose lives we care +nothing. Mr. Irving was not one of them. There is such a manly +heartiness in him that we crave close contact: we cannot know him too +well. Surely, this sympathy of readers, spontaneous, inevitable, will +keep his name always green. There may come greater purists,—though they +must con the language well; writers of more dramatic power we have now, +possibly a quainter humor,—but one more tender, that puts us in such +immediate sympathy with the author, hardly in our day, or in any day, +shall we see again.</p> + +<p>It is plain enough that Mr. Irving depended largely on his +friendships,—that, unconsciously, his courage for meeting and +conquering whatever of difficulty lay in his path was fed very much by +the encouraging words of those he loved and respected. His were no +brawny shoulders to push their way, no matter what points were galled by +contact,—no self-asserting, irresistible press of purpose, which is +careless of opinion. Throughout, we see in his kindly nature a longing +for sympathy: if from those intellectually strong, so much the better; +if from dear friends, better yet; if from casual acquaintances, still it +is good and serviceable to him, and helps him to keep his poise.</p> + +<p>He is a man, too, who clearly shuns controversy, who does not like to +take blows or to give blows, and whose intellectual life and development +find shape and color from this dread of the combative. Not that he is +without a quiet power and exercise of satire,—not that follies which +strike his attention do not get a thrust from his fine rapier; but they +are such follies, for the most part, as everybody condemns. By reason of +this quality in him, he avoids strongly controverted points in history; +or, if his course lies over them, he gives a fairly adjusted average of +opinion; he is not in mood for trenchant assertions of this or that +belief. This same quality, again, makes him shun political life. He has +a horror of its wordy wars, its flood of objurgation. Not that he is +without opinions, calmly formed, and firmly held; but the entertainment +of kindred belief he does not make the measure of his friendships. His +character counted on the side of all charity, of forbearance, against +harsh judgments; it was largely and Christianly catholic, as well in +things political as literary. He never made haste to condemn.</p> + +<p>There is a rashness in criminating this retirement from every-day +political conflicts which is, to say the least, very short-sighted. +Extreme radicalism spurns the comparative inactivity, and says, "Lo, a +sluggard!" Extreme conservatism spurns it, and says, "Lo, a coward!" It +is only too true that cowards and sluggards both may take shelter under +a shield of indifference; but it is equally true that any reasonably +acute mind, if only charitably disposed, can readily distinguish between +an inactivity which springs from craven or sluggish propensity, and that +other which belongs to constitutional temperament, and which, while +passing calm and dispassionate judgment upon excesses of opinion of +either party, contributes insensibly to moderate the violence of both.</p> + +<p>But whatever may have been Mr. Irving's reluctance to ally himself +intimately with political affairs, and to assume advocacy of special +measures, it is certain that he never failed in open-hearted, outspoken +utterance for the cause of virtue, of human liberty, and of his country. +There were vulgar assailants, indeed, who alleged at one time that he +had thoroughly denationalized himself by his long absences. The charge +he always regarded as an affront, and met with scorn. There are those so +grossly constituted as to measure a man's love of his own country by the +sneers he flings at the country of others. It was not in Mr. Irving's +nature to sneer at even an enemy; it was not his way of making conquest. +He recognized fully the advantages of a foreign life (at his date) in +following up that career of belles-lettres study which he had marked out +for himself. The free <i>entrée</i> of European libraries and galleries, and +familiar association with a class of cultivated men of leisure, (in +countries where such a class exists,) offered opportunity for refining +his taste, for enlarging his stock of available material, and for +stimulating his mental activity, of which he was not slow to perceive +the value, and of which he has given ample account.</p> + +<p>There is much that is interesting in the Life before us in regard to Mr. +Irving's habit of work. He was, like most men of extreme sensitiveness, +moody; at times his mind seemed all aglow; he wrote, on such occasions, +with extraordinary rapidity, and with that cheery appreciation of his +labor which to any author is an immense stimulant. But following upon +these happy humors came seasons of wearisome depression; the stale +manuscript of yesterday lost its charm; the fancy refused to be lighted; +he has not the heart to hammer at the business with dull, lifeless +blows, and flings down his pen in despair. There are successive months +during which this mood hangs upon him like an incubus; then it passes +suddenly, like a cloud, and the air (as at Seville) wooes him to his +charmingest fancies.</p> + +<p>We do not propose a critical estimate of the books of Mr. Irving. We +have neither space nor present temper for this. The world has indorsed +his great popularity with the heart, as much as with the brain. There +are those who have objected that the last subject of his labor—the +"Life of Washington"—was little suited to his imaginative tone of mind, +and should have been worked up with a larger and more philosophic grasp +of thought. It may well be that at some future time we shall have a more +profound estimate of the relations which our great Leader held to his +cause and to his time; but, however profound and just such a work may +be, we feel quite safe in predicting that it will never supplant the +graceful labor of Mr. Irving in the hearts of the American people. +Precisely what was wanted Mr. Irving has given: such charming, faithful, +truthful picture of the great hero of our Revolution as should carry +knowledge of him, of the battles he fought, of his large, self-denying, +unswerving patriotism, of the purity of his life, into every household. +No man could have done this work better; nor do we think any other will +ever do it as well.</p> + +<p>And there is his "Sketch-Book,"—in blue and gold, in green and gold, in +red and gold;—in what colors, and in what language, does it not appear? +Yet the themes are of the simplest: a broken heart; a rural funeral; a +Christmas among the hollies; an hour in the Abbey of Westminster: what +is there new, or to care greatly for, in these things? Yet he touched +them, and all the world are touched by them. Your critic says there is +no serious insight, no deep probing; a pretty wind blows over,—that is +all.</p> + +<p>Yes, that is all; but how many are there who can set such sweet currents +of wind aflow?</p> + +<p>Only a bruised daisy, only a wounded hare, only Halloween,—and Burns, +with all his fresh, healthy, hearty manhood, and only a peasant's pen, +touches them in such way that his touch is making the nerves of men and +women vibrate, where-ever our Saxon speech is uttered.</p> + +<p>There is many a light thing that we cherish,—with which we will not +easily part. That souvenir of some dear, dead one we do not value by its +weight in gold; that sweet story of the Vicar we do not measure by its +breadth of logic. And no American, no matter how late born he may be, +but, if he wander in the Catskills, shall hear the rumble of the Dutch +revellers at their bowling in the gorges of the mountains,—not one but +shall read, and reading shall love, the story of Rip Van Winkle.</p> + +<p>It was only a quiet old gentleman of six-and-seventy who was buried +awhile ago from his home upon the Hudson: yet the village-shops were all +closed; the streets, the houses, the station, were hung in black; +thousands from the city thirty miles away thronged the high-road leading +to the little church where prayers were to be said.</p> + +<p>How shall we explain this? The author is dead, indeed, whose writings +were admired by all; but there is something worthier to be said than +this:—At the little church lay the body of the man whom all men loved.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="THE_RIM" id="THE_RIM"></a>THE RIM.</h2> + + +<h3>PART II.</h3> + +<p>Affairs went smoothly and noiselessly on for some three months. Mr. St. +George had received the congratulations of the neighborhood, who, +perceiving that Éloise still remained at The Rim, presumed all was +satisfactory; and Éloise refused herself to all, the better by reason of +her term of mourning. The slaves on the estate no longer infected others +with the result of bad government; their association with the +Blue-Bluffs people, a notoriously bad set, as well they might be, was +broken up; they felt, though the reins hung freely and the burden was +light, that there was a strong hand behind them that knew how to pull +them up or put them in the dust, and they learned so much respect and +even love for that hand as never to presume on the fact that it would +not perhaps choose to exert its full power; work was well done; there +was no further trespassing on other precincts; the world was in perfect +order, so far as St. George's administration of it extended. He was, +moreover, a man of distinction; serving, young as he was, four terms in +Congress from a distant district, he was already spoken of again as the +candidate of the immediate vicinity; his advice was sought in a hundred +matters about which he knew nothing at all,—and always given, in spite +of the last-mentioned circumstance; he had a careless, easy way of +taking the life out of a man's mouth, so to speak, and disposing of it +for that man's advantage as he himself pleased, so that the man felt +under an infinite obligation; he had, too, an air with him of such +superiority over the ills of life, such undoubted kingliness, that every +one succumbed and rested gladly on so firm a precedent. Mr. St. George +in this brief time had accepted much hospitality, had won a thousand +friends, and by Christmas had made himself, through his genial strength +to-day and his sardonic sarcasm to-morrow, as thoroughly the autocrat of +all the region as ever Mr. Erne had been. For all that men want is a +master; give them somebody that will lead, and glad enough are they to +follow. But Mr. Erne's supremacy had merely been a matter of birth and +of kindly feeling; Mr. St. George's was, first, because he choose to +have it, and secondly, because nobody was able to refuse it. Marlboro's +masterliness was quite another thing, affected no clusters of men, and +was felt only by those whom he owned, body and soul.</p> + +<p>In the mean time, the family seldom saw Mr. St. George, and when they +did, he was so stately that they would have been quite willing to shut +their eyes. They forgot, however, that, when you insist on being +yourself an iceberg, you really cool the air about you. Once, indeed, or +twice, there had been brief, but notable exceptions in his conduct.</p> + +<p>A period of heavy rains had just elapsed, and Éloise, weary of +confinement, had gone on the first clear day strolling round the place, +as secure as in a drawing-room, since there was not one of her father's +people but adored her.</p> + +<p>"You are going out, Miss Changarnier?" Mr. St. George had remarked at +the door; and, on being answered, he had added in a soliloquy, as if not +deigning a second address for a second rebuff,—"It will be quite +impossible to go far, for the freshet has swollen the brooks into +rivers."</p> + +<p>Éloise, however, took no notice of the information, and went on her way, +strolled farther than she had intended, and forded a brook because Mr. +St. George had said she could not. Then she sat down under a branching +tree that dropped its leaves about her and into the brook, and began to +read the "Romaunt of the Rose": at least, I fancy that was the book she +had. While she remained, the brook swirling ever louder between the +pauses, the sunset ran red in the sky and warned her to hasten home. But +she disregarded the warning till purple shadows fell softly on the page, +and stars and moon stole out to peer above her shoulder and see what it +was that so entranced the maiden. Rising hurriedly, she moved away; and +only when she had crossed two or three of the stepping-stones did she +perceive, on looking down, that, while she had been reading, the water +had risen above the next ones with a depth that the failing light +forbade her to see. Standing there, and bending dizzily forward to guess +the strength of the dark stream now so loudly and rapidly rushing by, +there came a noise like a bursting water-spout; suddenly her waist was +seized, and she was swept back to the shore. The next instant, with a +seething sound, a great uprooted oak tore along the very spot on which +she had stood.</p> + +<p>"Seeking danger for the pleasure of escape?" said a cool voice in her +ear, as her feet were planted on dry land. "A little excitement spices +our still life so well!"</p> + +<p>"Mr. St. George! how dare you?" cried Éloise, freeing herself.</p> + +<p>"What would you have had me do? Should I have stood here, letting I dare +not wait upon I would, like the cat i' the adage, while the oak caught +and rushed you off to sea? Too big a broomstick for such a little +witch!"</p> + +<p>"You should not have been here at all, Sir!"</p> + +<p>"There shall be thanks in all the churches, next Sunday, that I was."</p> + +<p>"At least, Sir, I can spare further aid."</p> + +<p>"Play Undine and the Knight on the island? It wouldn't be at all +safe,—it wouldn't be proper, you know," said Mr. St. George, raising +his eyebrows. "The dam that shuts up the irrigating waters broke an hour +ago," added he, in the tone of another person. "I sent servants to find +you, in every direction, and happened this way myself."</p> + +<p>Éloise was a little sobered.</p> + +<p>"I am much obliged to you, Sir," she said.</p> + +<p>"So it seems," he replied, dryly. "I shall be forced to offend you +again," he continued, "as further delay will render the stream entirely +impassable."</p> + +<p>And before she could utter a syllable of deprecation, she had swung a +brief moment in the air, and was upon the other side, up which Mr. St. +George, in his high seven-league boots, clambered so soon as he had set +her down. Instead of venturing any new display of indignation, as St. +George expected, Éloise walked on with him quietly a moment, and then, +looking up, said,—</p> + +<p>"You are very kind, and I am very ungracious."</p> + +<p>Mr. St. George did not deny her assertion, only he glanced down at her +from his height a second with an inexplicable expression, and +immediately after the house became visible bowed low and left her.</p> + +<p>"There's been such a tantrum, Miss," said the quadroon Hazel, combing +out Éloise's hair that night, "and Massa St. George's horse waited two +mortal hours to take him to Blue Bluffs. You ought to have heard him +swear! He galloped off at last like mad."</p> + +<p>And as Éloise gave no response, unless the cloud on her face spoke for +her in the glass, the familiar girl added,—</p> + +<p>"Not at you, Miss, not swearing at you,—oh, no, indeed!—but at all of +us, to think we'd let you go alone."</p> + +<p>"Mr. St. George is too solicitous. That will do, Hazel. Have you spoken +to your master about buying Vane?"</p> + +<p>"Laws, Miss, I never feels as if he was any master of mine, leastwise +excep' one can't help minding him. 'S different from ole Massa,—we +minded ole Massa for lub,—but I dunno if it's the music, when Massa St. +George speaks, that makes you do what he says, when you just don't mean +to,—as if you couldn't help it, and didn't want to help it?" suggested +Hazel.</p> + +<p>"Mr. St. George," said Éloise, "is very good to his people; they ought +to wish to obey him."</p> + +<p>"Yes, Miss. On'y he a'n't no business <i>here</i>."</p> + +<p>"Don't let me hear you speak so again, Hazel," said Éloise, facing the +suddenly cringing girl. "Now you can go."</p> + +<p>But Hazel lingered still, over one and another odd trifle, and at length +glancing up from where she stooped, with a scarlet on her young tawny +cheek, she added, in a low voice,—</p> + +<p>"You'll speak to Massa St. George now for me, won't you, Miss?"</p> + +<p>"What? About Vane? You would do better yourself. Yes."</p> + +<p>Two or three days passed away after this little promise to Hazel, before +Éloise, at first forgetting it, and then dreading it, could gather +courage to proceed in the negotiations for the handmaiden's suit. She +was vaguely aware that she was the last person in the world whose past +conduct harmonized with the asking of favors, and she silently offered +slight propitiatory sacrifices. Yet she did this so haughtily, in order +still not to compromise her own dignity, that they would quite as well +have answered the purpose of belligerent signals.</p> + +<p>It was one afternoon that Éloise sat at the drawing-room window, having +recently finished her day's work, and letting herself linger now in a +place which she very rarely so much as passed through. She sat erect, +just then,—her head thrown far back, and the eyelids cast down along +the pale face. Mr. St. George came into the room noiselessly, and laid +down his riding-whip and gloves. Then he paused, struck by her +appearance, and admired her motionless attitude for several minutes.</p> + +<p>"One sits for Mnemosyne," he said then.</p> + +<p>Éloise lifted her eyes, and a ghost of color flitted along her cheek. +Here was a fortunate moment; the deity of it unbent and smiled. Her +heart beat in her throat between the words of her thought; yet she +recalled, for support, all the romances she had read, and their eloquent +portraitures of love, and, remembering that just as Rebecca loved +Ivanhoe, as Paolo loved Francesca, so Hazel and Vane loved each other, +"I must! I must!" she kept saying chokingly to herself. Mr. St. George +had taken up a book. How should she dare disturb him? At last a +hesitating voice came sliding towards him,—</p> + +<p>"Mr. St. George"——</p> + +<p>"I beg your pardon,—did you speak?" he asked, closing his book.</p> + +<p>"Mr. St. George, I want to ask you a favor," replied Éloise.</p> + +<p>She rose, and unconsciously with such an air that he saw her effort, +then came and sat on a lower seat directly before him.</p> + +<p>"When papa, when my dear father was living," said she, "I had a maid, +who was always mine, who grew up with me, being only a little younger, +and I became attached to her"——</p> + +<p>And before Éloise knew it she was lightly playing with Mr. St. George's +riding-whip,—that being one of her warm traits just out of Nature, the +appropriation of everything about her.</p> + +<p>"And you have her no longer? That shall be attended to."</p> + +<p>"Oh, yes, Sir, she waits on me still; that isn't it. She is only +seventeen, she has been an atom wayward,—just, you know, as I might +have been"——</p> + +<p>Mr. St. George smiled so perceptibly that Éloise added, throwing back +her head again,—</p> + +<p>"Just as I <i>am</i>, Sir! But she has behaved very nicely for +several——Why, this is Mrs. Arles's whip! the one her husband gave her. +I knew it by the ivory vine-stem twining the ebony; and there are her +initials in the lovely gold chasing. I used to want it to play with, +when I was a little girl,—and she wouldn't let me have it, of course. +Pretty initials!"</p> + +<p>"Yes," said Mr. St. George, coldly.</p> + +<p>Éloise put it down. And then she stared at him forgetfully, and, +unthinkingly, with great disappointed eyes. Thereat Mr. St. George +laughed.</p> + +<p>"Don't Russian women present the knout to their bridegrooms?" asked +Éloise then, mischievously.</p> + +<p>But before he could have replied, she resumed,—</p> + +<p>"Well, Sir, Hazel is very pretty"——</p> + +<p>"It is Hazel, then? Would you like her to be made more distinctly yours, +Miss Éloise?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, dear, no, Sir, thank you. That isn't it at all. Hazel is in love."</p> + +<p>"Indeed!"</p> + +<p>"She is in love with Vane, a boy of Mr. Marlboro's: you may have seen +him; he is here a good deal,—by stealth: and they want to be married. +But Mr. Marlboro' is their terror, he may put an end to everything, and +they are afraid, and—and—could you buy Vane, Mr. St. George?"</p> + +<p>"I could, Miss Changarnier."</p> + +<p>"And you will, then?" cried Éloise, springing up.</p> + +<p>"If Mr. Marlboro' will sell him."</p> + +<p>"Won't he?"</p> + +<p>"It is a pride of the Marlboro's that there never was a hand sold off +the place."</p> + +<p>"Oh, I had forgotten. They would tell too shocking stories."</p> + +<p>"Not here. Not unless they were sold off the Cuban plantation, where the +vicious ones are transported."</p> + +<p>"But perhaps he would give him to you."</p> + +<p>"Miss Éloise, he would give him to <i>you</i>."</p> + +<p>"Me? I have never seen him."</p> + +<p>"That is of no consequence. He has seen you."</p> + +<p>"I wonder where. Do you really suppose that Mr. Marlboro' would give +Vane to me?"</p> + +<p>"Miss Éloise, I will see what I can do about it first."</p> + +<p>"How kind you are! Thank you!"</p> + +<p>And Éloise was about to go.</p> + +<p>"One moment, if you please," said the other.</p> + +<p>And Mr. St. George remained in meditation. When he spoke, it was not in +too assured a tone.</p> + +<p>"I am quite aware," said he, "that you consider me in the light of an +enemy. Perhaps it is a magnanimity that would be pleasant to you, should +you in turn grant that enemy a favor."</p> + +<p>"I should like to be able to serve you, Sir."</p> + +<p>"Well, then,—I spoke very unwisely a few moments since,—promise me +now, that, if Hazel and Vane do not marry till Doomsday, you will not +ask Marlboro' for the gift. It places you, an unprotected girl, too much +under the weather with such a man as Marlboro'. You promise me?"</p> + +<p>And he rose opposite her, smiling and gazing.</p> + +<p>"A whole promise is rash," said Éloise, laughing. "Half a one I give +you."</p> + +<p>"It is for yourself," said Mr. St. George, grimly; and he turned +abruptly away, because he knew he lied, and was afraid lest she would +know it too.</p> + +<p>It was two or three weeks after this, that Mr. St. George, returning one +chilly night from some journey, found Mrs. Arles asleep in her chair, a +fire upon the hearth, and Éloise sitting on the floor before it with her +box and brushes, essaying to catch the shifting play of color opposite +her, and paint there one of the great cloven tongues of fire that went +soaring up the chimney.</p> + +<p>"In pursuit of an <i>ignis-fatuus</i>?" asked he, stooping over her an +instant, and suddenly snatching himself erect, as she looked up with a +certain sweetness in her smile, and pushed back the drooping tress, +that, streaming along the temple and lying in one large curve upon the +cheek, sometimes fell too low for order, though never for grace.</p> + +<p>"And all in vain," she said, laughingly. "I've worked an hour, I can get +the violet edges, I can get the changing bend,—but there 'a no lustre, +no flicker,—I can't find out the secret of painting flame."</p> + +<p>"It is a secret you found out long ago!" muttered Mr. St. George, +unintelligibly, and strode out, banging the door behind him.</p> + +<p>And Éloise, astonished and dismayed, abruptly put up her pencils, and +went to bed.</p> + +<p>So that, when Mr. St. George returned a half-hour afterward for a +cheerful fireside-season over nuts and wine, there was nobody there but +Mrs. Arles, who picked herself up out of her nap, and went placidly on +with her tatting and contrivances.</p> + +<p>Two stragglers on the ice-fields of the polar seas would have met each +other with less frozen chill than St. George and Éloise did on the +succeeding morning. And in that chill a long period elapsed, during +which Mr. St. George attended to his affairs, and Éloise silently cast +up her accounts.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>One morning in the spring, after the last of the soft and balmy winter, +Mr. St. George said to Mrs. Arles, at breakfast,—</p> + +<p>"A dozen rooms, or more, can be ready by Wednesday? There will be guests +at noon, for several weeks. That is the list. I rely on Miss +Changarnier's assistance." And he handed her a paper, and went out.</p> + +<p>"It will be useless for you to keep your room now," said Mrs. Arles to +Éloise, on Wednesday morning. "It isn't like Mr. St. George's bachelor +parties with Marlboro' and Montgomery and Mavoisie, when I like to see +you keep to yourself as you do. These are all old friends."</p> + +<p>"I shall still have my work to do," said Éloise; and she went into the +cabinet and sharpened her pens with a <i>vim</i>.</p> + +<p>It would doubtless have relieved Mr. St. George of much annoyance and +perplexity, if Éloise would have assumed her old place in welcoming the +guests; but that was not set down in her part, and Éloise rightly felt +that it would be a preposterous thing for her to do. And though, when +she heard their voices in the hall, she longed just to open the door and +give one glance at Laura Murray sweeping by, or draw Lottie Humphreys in +through the crack and indulge in one quick squeeze, she heroically bent +herself upon the debit and credit beneath her eye, and tried to forget +all about it,—succeeding only in remembering who had lived and who had +died since the last time that hall had rung with their voices.</p> + +<p>It was past noon when Éloise, having finished her task, and having +remained for a long time with her arms upon the desk and her hands upon +her eyes, suddenly glanced up and saw a gentleman entering the cabinet, +where no gentleman but one was ever allowed to enter. He was in search +of a book; and scanning the shelves, his eye fell on her.</p> + +<p>He hesitated for a single atom of time, then stepped rapidly forward, +and said,—</p> + +<p>"Miss Changarnier, I am quite sure."</p> + +<p>"Allow me," said quickly another voice at his shoulder, "to present to +Miss Changarnier Mr. Marlboro'." For Mr. St. George had entered just in +time.</p> + +<p>Mr. Marlboro' was a slight man, hardly to be called tall. He wore black, +of course, the coat fastened on the breast and letting out just a +glimpse of ruffled linen and glancing jewel below, while the lofty brow, +set in its fair curling hair, and the peaked beard curling and waving +about the throat, gave him the appearance of a Vandyck stepped from the +frame. He had the further peculiarity of eyes, dark hazel eyes, that +would have glowed like fever, if they were not perpetually wrapped in +dream. There was a certain air of careful breeding about him, different +from Earl St. George Erne's high-bred bearing, inasmuch as he insisted +upon his pedigree and St. George forgot his. Too fiery a Southerner to +seek the advantages of Northern colleges, he had educated himself in +England, and had contracted while at Oxford the habit of eating opium. +Returning home at his majority, and remaining long enough to establish +his own ideas, which were peculiarly despotic, upon his +property,—through many subsequent travels, tasting in each an +experience of all the folly and madness the great capitals of the world +afford, through all his life, indeed, this habit was the only thing +Marlboro' had not mastered. One other thing, albeit, there was, of which +Marlboro' was the slave, and that was the Marlboro' temper.</p> + +<p>Éloise returned his salutation cordially, and with a certain naughty +pleasure, since Mr. St. George was looking on, and since that person, +constituting himself her grim guardian, had in a manner warned her of +the other. Then she displayed her pretty little ink-stained hands, and +ran away.</p> + +<p>Mr. Marlboro' looked after her, and then turned to survey St. George.</p> + +<p>"Who would not be the Abélard to such an Éloise?" he said.</p> + +<p>There was no answer. St. George was filling a pipe, and whistling the +while a melancholy old tune.</p> + +<p>"I'll tell you what, St. George"——</p> + +<p>Here he paused, and thrummed on the book in time to the tune.</p> + +<p>"You were about to impart some information?"</p> + +<p>"Has your little nun taken the black veil?"</p> + +<p>"It is no nun of my shriving."</p> + +<p>"Are you King Ahasuerus himself, to have lived so long in the house with +Miss Changarnier, may I ask, and to have thrown no handkerchief?"</p> + +<p>"There is some confusion in your rhetoric. But it is not I who am +tyrant,—it is she who stands for that;—I am only Mordecai the Jew +sitting in the king's gate. As so many Jews do to-day," muttered St. +George,—"ay, and on their thrones, too. I am afraid we are neither of +us very well up in our Biblical history. She is the Grand +Unapproachable."</p> + +<p>"<i>Tant mieux.</i> My way is all the clearer."</p> + +<p>"Your way to what?"</p> + +<p>"To the altar!"</p> + +<p>"Yes, you should have married long ago, Marlboro'," said Mr. St. George, +the pipe being lighted, the face looming out of azure wreaths, and the +heels taking an altitude.</p> + +<p>"I came home," said Marlboro', "to marry Éloise Changarnier."</p> + +<p>"That is exactly what I intend to do myself."</p> + +<p>"You!"</p> + +<p>Mr. Marlboro's eyes glistened like a topaz in the sun; but just then a +new guest arriving demanded Mr. St. George's attention.</p> + +<p>Meantime Éloise had found a feminine conclave assembled in her room, all +having prepared their own toilets, and ready to inspect the preparation +of hers; and as the work proceeded, Lottie Humphreys added herself to +the group, in grand <i>tenue</i>, and pushed Hazel aside, that she might bind +up Éloise's already braided hair, and indulge herself in the interim +with sundry fervent ejaculations.</p> + +<p>"Isn't he splendid?" whispered Lottie, while Laura compared bracelets +with Emma Houghton. "Oh, there, isn't he splendid? It's like the king +coming down from his throne, when he speaks to you; it puts my heart in +a flutter. How do you dare ask him to pass the butter? Now just tell +<i>me</i>. Are you engaged to him? Tell me truly, only shake your head, yes +or no. No? I don't believe a word you say. Mean to be? Then, I +declare——Suppose now, only just suppose, suppose he'd look at me?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, what a silly little goose you are, Lottie Humphreys! And you've put +geraniums in my hair, when I meant to wear those beautiful blue +poison-bells!"</p> + +<p>"I never saw any one so dark as you are wear so much blue."</p> + +<p>"But it's becoming to me, isn't it?" said Éloise, turning with her +smile, as radiant for Lottie as for Marlboro'.</p> + +<p>"St. George," said Marlboro', with a beaming face bent over his +shoulder, as he took Éloise out to dinner, "my intention was the +earlier; it will succeed!"</p> + +<p>"As being the eldest born and heir to the succession. Does the good +general expose his campaign?"</p> + +<p>"There we are quits. It is precisely as a good general that I exposed +it."</p> + +<p>"But did the Levites unveil the sacred ark?" said Mr. St. George, +severely.</p> + +<p>"We are talking freemasonry, Miss Changarnier," said Marlboro', and they +moved on.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Whether she would or not, Éloise found herself in exactly the same +position in the house as before her adopted father's death,—partly +because almost all the company, being old friends, recognized no +difference, partly because Mr. St. George silently chose it should be +so. She soon forgot herself entirely in the pleasure of it, and was +unconsciously, even towards Mr. St. George, so sweet and genial, so +blithe and bewitching, that his scanning glance would suddenly have to +fall, since an expression, he felt, entered it that he dared not have +her see. There was always a certain disarray about the costume of +Éloise; one tress of her hair was always drooping too low, or one thrust +back behind the beautiful temple and tiny ear, or a bracelet was half +undone, or a mantle dropping off,—trifles that only gave one the desire +to help her; she constantly wore, too, a scarf or shawl, or something of +the kind, and the drapery lent her a kind of tender womanliness, which +only such things do; then, too, she garnished her hair with flowers +always half falling away, somewhat faded with the warmth, and emitting +strong, rich fragrances in dying. When she laughed, and the brilliant +little teeth sparkled a contrast with the dark smooth skin, when she +thought, and her eyes glowed like tear-washed stars, Mr. St. George was +wont to turn abruptly away from the vision, unwilling to be so +controlled. But of that Éloise never dreamed.</p> + +<p>As for Marlboro', on the other hand, he was the moth in the candle. Of +Mr. Marlboro's devotion Éloise was quite aware,—and whereas, playing +with it the least bit in the world, she had at first enjoyed it, it grew +to irk her sadly; she used to beg her friends, in all manner of pretty +ways, to take him off her hands, and would resort from her own rooms to +theirs, assisting at their awful rites, and endeavoring to get them up +as charmingly as possible, that they might lure away her trouble. It was +in vain that Marlboro' tried to reopen the subject of their mute warfare +with St. George. St. George would not condescend, neither would he sully +Éloise's name by bandying it about with another lover. If Marlboro' +begged him to toss up for chances, St. George answered that he never +threw up a chance; when he went further and offered to stake success or +loss, St. George told him he had cast his last die; when he would have +spoken her name to him directly, St. George withered him with flamy +eyes, and let his manner become too rigid for one to dare more with him. +But the ladies had already caught the spirit of the thing, and made +little situations of it among themselves. Then when St. George became +impregnable to his attacks, Marlboro' pulled his blonde moustache +savagely, and grew sullen, and fortunately Éloise did not try to dispel +the cloud. Nevertheless, Marlboro' fancied that he perceived victory +hovering nearer to St. George than himself, and a rivalry begun in +good-humor was likely to take a different cast. In his pique, Marlboro' +bade his host farewell, and returned to Blue Bluffs; but it was idle +riding, for every day found him again at The Rim, like the old riddle,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"All saddled, all bridled, all fit for a fight,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>and constant as the magnet to its poles.</p> + +<p>It was still the steps of Éloise that Marlboro' haunted. Yesterday, he +brought songs to teach her, and among them the chant to which long ago +they had once listened together in the old Norman cathedral; to-morrow, +he would show her a singular deposit on the beach, of rare silvery +shells underflushed with rose, kept there over a tide for her eyes; +to-day, he treated her to politics condensed into a single phrase whose +essence told all his philosophy:—"The great error in government," he +said, "is also inversely the great want in marriage: in government, +individuality should be supreme; in marriage, lost. In government, this +error is a triple-headed monster: centralization, consolidation, union."</p> + +<p>Mr. St. George heard him, and paused a moment before them, one evening, +as Marlboro' thus harangued Éloise.</p> + +<p>"Consolidation? Centralization?" said he. "The very things we all +oppose."</p> + +<p>"Nullification is a good solvent."</p> + +<p>"A ghost that is laid. There's a redder phantom than that on the +horizon, man!"</p> + +<p>"What are you talking about, politics or marriage?"</p> + +<p>"God forbid that I should soil a lady's ears with the first!" said Mr. +St. George, bowing to Éloise; "and as to the last,—I'll none of it!"</p> + +<p>And after Mr. Marlboro' had gone that night, as Éloise was about to +ascend to her own rooms, Mr. St. George came along again, and, lightly +taking the candle, held up the tiny flame before her face.</p> + +<p>"What has that <i>contrabandista</i> been saying to you?" demanded Mr. St. +George.</p> + +<p>Éloise looked ignorantly up.</p> + +<p>"Gilding hell? Do not believe him! Never believe anything any one says, +when you know he is in love with you! Slavery is a curse! a curse that +we inherit for the sins of those drunken Cavaliers, our forefathers! Let +us make the best of it!"</p> + +<p>"Ah, Mr. St. George," said she, gayly, "this from you, for whom the +disciples claim Calhoun's mantle? For what, then, do you contend?"</p> + +<p>"For the right of being a free man myself! for the right of enduring +the dictation of no man in Maine or Louisiana! for the right to do as I +have the mind!" exclaimed Mr. St. George, in a ponderous and suppressed +under-voice that rang through her head half-way up-stairs.</p> + +<p>Long before, Mr. St. George had very courteously begged Éloise to take a +vacation during the stay of their friends, but she had so peremptorily +and utterly refused to do so that it ended by his spending the long +morning with her in the cabinet, either over certain neglected arrears, +or while she wrote letters under his royal dictation, and Hazel sewed a +laborious seam between them, as always. Here, at length, after +sufficient tantalization by its means, Marlboro' venturously intruded +himself every day. Too familiar for interruption, he took another seat, +and watched her swift hand's graceful progress. If her pen delayed, she +found another awaiting her,—her posture wearied, a footstool was rolled +towards her feet,—her side cramped, behold, a cushion,—she looked for +fresh paper, it fell before her: all somewhat slavish service, and which +Hazel could have rendered as well. Used to slaves, would she have +preferred a master? Whether Miss Changarnier relished these abject +kindnesses better than Mr. St. George's imperious exactions was +precisely the thing that puzzled the two gentlemen.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile, during all this gay season, if Éloise had thought of once +looking about her, which she never did, she would have seen, that, in +whatever group she was, there, too, was Mr. St. George,—that, if they +rode three abreast down the great park-avenues, though she laughed with +Evan Murray, it was to Mr. St. George's horse that her bridle was +secured,—and that, when she sang, it was St. George who jested and +smiled and lightly talked the while,—not that her music was not sweet, +but that its spell was too strong for him to endure beneath his mask. +Yet Éloise drew no deductions; if at first she noticed that it was he +who laid the shawl on her shoulders, if she remembered, that, when he +fastened her dropping bracelet, biting his lip and looking down, he held +the wrist an instant with a clasp that left its whitened pressure there, +she remembered, too, that he never spoke to her, were it avoidable, that +he failed in small politenesses of the footstool or the fan, and that, +if once he had looked at her in an instant's intentness of singular +expression, and let a smile well up and flood his eyes and lips and +face, in a heart-beat it had faded, and he was standing with folded arms +and looking sternly away beyond her, while she caught herself still +sitting there and bending forward and smiling up at him like a flower +beneath the sun;—to atone for her remissness, she was frowning and cool +and curt to Earl St. George for days.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>It was about this time, that, one night, when Hazel passed the tea, +Éloise's eye, wandering a moment, suddenly woke from a little apathy and +observed that there was no widow's cap on Mrs. Arles's hair, that it had +refined away through various shades of lace till at last even the +delicate cobweb on the back of the head was gone and the glossy locks +lay bare, that the sables had become simply black gauze over a steely +shine of silk, that the little Andalusian foot lay relieved on a white +embroidered cushion, that its owner was glancing up and smiling at a +gentleman who bent above her, and that that gentleman was Mr. St. +George. When this change had taken place, and whether it had been abrupt +or gradual, her careless eye could not tell; and, forgetting her own +part momentarily in order to take in the whole of the drama in which +they were all acting, Éloise spilled her tea and made some work for +Hazel. As the girl rectified her mishap, it flashed on Éloise that she +had done nothing more about her suit; she noticed, too, how pale Hazel +was, and how subdued and still in all her movements; she remembered that +probably Vane had found it impossible to see her and to elude his +ever-present master; and she thereupon availed herself of his first +disengaged moment to stand at Mr. St. George's side, and ask him if he +had ever thought again of a request she had once made him.</p> + +<p>"I was thinking of it at this moment," he replied, looking at her with +something like sunshine suffusing the brown depth of his eyes; "but the +truth is, I am not on such terms with Marlboro' that I may demand a +favor."</p> + +<p>"Then <i>I</i> shall."</p> + +<p>"On your peril!" he cried, with hasty rigor.</p> + +<p>But Éloise escaped, trailing one end of her scarf behind, looking back +at him, laughing, and shaking her threatening fan as he stepped after +her. And then Mr. St. George resumed his haughty silence.</p> + +<p>Éloise went down the hall after Hazel. She found her in the empty +dining-room, having just set down the salver; the last light, that, +stealing in, illumined all the paintings of clusters of fruit and +bunches of flowers upon the white panelling, had yet a little ray to +spare for the girl where she crouched with her sobs, her apron flung +above her head; and when Éloise laid her hand gently on her shoulder, +she sprang as if one had struck her.</p> + +<p>"Oh, Miss 'Loise! Miss 'Loise! I'm in such trouble!" she gasped.</p> + +<p>It did not take long for the little story to find the air. Vane and +Hazel, secure of Éloise's efforts, had married. It was one of the +immutable Blue Bluffs laws that they had broken: there were no marriages +allowed off the place there. Vane was expiating his offence no one knew +where, and there were even rumors that he had already been sent away to +the Cuban plantation of the Marlboro's, whither all refractory slaves +were wont to journey.</p> + +<p>Éloise went slowly back to the drawing-room, then out upon the piazza, +and with her went that bending grace that accompanied her least motion, +and always reminded you of a flower swaying on its stem. Mr. Marlboro' +leaned there, listening to Miss Murray's singing within. Éloise went and +took her place beside him, while his face brightened. He had been eating +opium again, and his eyes were full of dreams. From where they stood +upon the piazza they could see the creek winding, a strip of silvery +redness, along the coast, and far in the distance where it met the sea, +a film upon the sky, rose the dim castellated height of Blue Bluffs, +like an azure mist.</p> + +<p>"There is something there that I want," said Éloise, archly, looking at +the Bluffs.</p> + +<p>"There? you shall not wish twice."</p> + +<p>Then Hazel approaching, as by signal, offered Mr. Marlboro' a cup, which +he declined without gesture or glance, while there gleamed in her eye a +subtle look that told how easy it would have been to brew poison for +this man who had such an ungodly power over her fate.</p> + +<p>"That is my little maid," said Éloise. "I have lent her to Mrs. Arles +awhile, though. Is she not pretty,—Hazel?"</p> + +<p>"That is Hazel, then? A very witch-hazel!"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"And you want Vane?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, Mr. Marlboro'."</p> + +<p>"I did not know she was your maid. But the offence of Vane, if +overlooked, would be a breach of discipline entailing too hazardous +effects. Authority should never relax. What creeps through the iron +fingers once can creep again. The gentle dews distilling through the +pores of the granite congeal in the first frost and rend the rock. I +would have difficulty, Miss Éloise, in pardoning such an offence to you, +yourself. Ah, yes, that would be impossible, by Heaven!"</p> + +<p>Éloise laughed in her charming way, and said,—</p> + +<p>"But, Mr. Marlboro', would it not be an admirable lesson to your people, +if Vane were sold?"</p> + +<p>"A lesson to teach them all to go and do likewise, eh, Marlboro'?" said +St. George, passing, with Miss Humphreys on his arm.</p> + +<p>"I have never sold, I never sell, a slave," replied Marlboro', in his +placid tone; but St. George was out of hearing. "Yet, Miss +Éloise,—if—if you will accept him"——</p> + +<p>"Mr. Marlboro'! Indeed? Truly indeed? How happy you make me!"</p> + +<p>"And you can make me as happy,—happier, by the infinity of heaven over +earth!"</p> + +<p>"But ought I to accept such a gift?" asked Éloise, oblivious of his last +speech. "But can I?—may I?"—as St. George's warning stole into her +memory.</p> + +<p>"Most certainly you can! most certainly you shall! he is yours!" And +before Éloise could pour forth one of her multitudinous thanks, he had +moved away.</p> + +<p>Marlboro's, however, was not that noble nature that spurns to beg at the +moment when it grants. Directly, he had wheeled about, and with an eager +air was again beside her.</p> + +<p>"And, Éloise," he said, "if in response I might have one smile, one +hope"——</p> + +<p>Thoughtlessly enough, Éloise turned her smiling face upon him, and gave +him her hand.</p> + +<p>"And you give it to me at last, this hand, to crown my life!" he +said,—for to his excited brain the trifling deed seemed the weighty +event, and when he looked up Éloise still was smiling. Only for a +second, though, for her processes of thought were not instantaneous, +while to him it was one of Mahomet's moments holding an eternity, and +she smiled while she was thinking, thinking simply of her little +handmaiden's pleasure. She tried to release her hand. But Mr. Marlboro' +did not know that his grasp upon it was that of a vice, for under an +artificial stimulus every action is as intense as the fired fancy +itself. And as she found it impossible to free it without visible +violence, other thoughts visited Éloise. Why should she not give it to +him? Who else cared for it? What object had her lonely life? Speak +sweetly as they might, what one of her old gallants forgot her loss of +wealth? Here was a man to make happy, here was a heart to rest upon, +here was a slave of his own passions to set free. Why should she +continue to live with Mr. St. George for her haughty master, when here +was this man at her feet? Why, but that suddenly the conviction smote +her that she loved the one and despised the other, that she adored the +master and despised the slave? And she snatched away her hand.</p> + +<p>Just then Mr. St. George was coming down the piazza again, on his +promenade, his head bent low as he spoke to the clinging little lady on +his arm. Passing Éloise, as he raised his face, their eyes met. She was +doing, he thought, the very thing that he had disadvised, and, as if to +warn her afresh, he looked long, a derisive smile curling his proud lip. +That was enough. "He knows it!" exclaimed Éloise to herself. "He +believes it! He thinks I love him! He never shall be sure of it!" And +turning once more, her face hung down and away, she laid her hand in +Marlboro's, without a word or a glance. He bent low over it in the +shadow, pressing it with his fervent lips, murmuring, "Mine! mine at +last! my own!" And St. George saw the whole.</p> + +<p>Just then a little sail crept in sight from where they stood, winding +down the creek at the foot of the lawn.</p> + +<p>"Oh, how delightful to be on the water to-night!" cried Laura Murray.</p> + +<p>"You have but to command," said Mr. St. George, with a certain gayety +that seemed struck out like sparks against the flinty fact of the late +occurrence,—and half the party trooped down the turf to the shore. The +boats were afloat and laden before one knew it. Mr. Marlboro' and Éloise +were just one instant too late. Laura Murray shook a triumphant +handkerchief at them, and St. George feathered his oar, pausing a moment +as if he would return, and then gave a great sweep and his boat fairly +leaped over the water.</p> + +<p>Mr. Marlboro' did not hesitate. There was the sail they had first seen, +now on the point of being lowered beneath the alder-bushes by the young +hunters who had sought shore for the night. Gold slipped from one hand +to another, a word, a name, and a promise. Éloise was on board, +expecting Mrs. Arles and Mrs. Houghton to follow. Marlboro' sprang upon +the end, and drew in the rope behind him, waving the other ladies a +farewell; the sails were stretched again, the rudder shipped, and wing +and wing they went skimming down the channel, past the little fleet of +wherries, ploughing the shallow current into foam and spray on their +wild career.</p> + +<p>"Marlboro' is mad!" said St. George, with a whitening cheek.</p> + +<p>Marlboro', standing up, one arm about the mast, and catching the slant +beam of the late-rising moon on his face, that shone awfully rapt and +intent, saluted them with an ironical cheer, and dashed on. Éloise held +the tiller for the moment, still pulsating with her late emotions, not +above a trifling play of vanity, welcoming the exhilaration of a race, +where she might half forget her trouble, and pleased with a vague +anticipation of some intervention that might recall the word which even +in these five dragging moments had already begun to corrode and eat into +her heart like a rusting fetter. The oarsmen in the wherries bent their +muscles to the strife, the boats danced over the tiny crests, the ladies +sang their breeziest sea-songs to cheer them at the work. The sail-boat +rounded a curve and was almost out of sight.</p> + +<p>"Oars never caught sails yet," muttered St. George, and he put his boat +to the shore. "There, Murray, try your lazy mettle, and take my oar. As +for me, I'm off,"—and he sprang upon the bank, sending the boat +spinning off into the current again from his foot. In ten minutes a +horseman went galloping by on the high-road skirting the shore, with a +pace like that of the Spectre of the Storm.</p> + +<p>"Now, Mr. Marlboro'," said Éloise, "shall we not turn back, victorious?"</p> + +<p>"Turn?" said Marlboro', shaking loose another fold of the linen. "I +never turn! Look your last on the tiny tribe,—we shall see them no +more!"</p> + +<p>Éloise sprang to her feet. He caught her hand and replaced her; his face +was so white that it shone, there was a wild glitter in his eye, and the +smile that brooded over her had something in it absolutely terrific.</p> + +<p>"We have gone far enough," said Éloise, resolutely. "I wish to rejoin my +friends."</p> + +<p>"You are with me!" said Marlboro', proudly.</p> + +<p>She was afraid to say another word, for to oppose him now in his +exultant rage might only work the mood to frenzy. The creek had widened +almost to a river,—the sea was close at hand, with its great tumbling +surf. She looked at the horizon and the hill for help, but none came; +destruction was before them, and on they flew.</p> + +<p>Marlboro' stood now, and steadied the tiller with his foot.</p> + +<p>"This is motion!" said he. "We fly upon the wings of the wind! The +viewless wind comes roaring out of the black region of the East, it +fills the high heaven, it roars on to the uttermost undulation of the +atmosphere, and we are a part of it! We are only a mote upon its breath, +a dust-atom driven before it, Éloise,—and yet one great happiness is +greater than it, drowns it in a vaster flood of viewless power, can +whisper to it calm!"</p> + +<p>How should Éloise contradict him? With such rude awakening, he might +only snatch her in his arms and plunge down to death. Perhaps he half +divined the fear.</p> + +<p>"Yes, Éloise," he said. "They are both here, life and death, at our +beck! I can take you to my heart, one instant the tides divide, then +they close above us, and you are mine for ever and ever and +only,—sealed mine beneath all this crystal sphere of the waters! We +hear the gentle lapping of the ripples on the shore, we hear the tones +of evening-bells swim out and melt above us, we hear the oar shake off +its shower of tinkling drops,—up the jewel-strewn deeps of heaven the +planets hang out their golden lamps to light our slumbers! Heart to +heart and lip to lip, we are at rest, we are at peace, nothing comes +between us, our souls have the eternities in which to mingle!"</p> + +<p>He saw Éloise shudder, and turned from his dream, blazing full upon her. +"Life, then, is best!" he cried. "But life together and alone, life +where we count out its throbs in some far purple island of the main, +prolonged who knows how far?—love shall make for us perpetual youth, +there shall no gloom enter our Eden, perfect solitude and perfect bliss! +Alone, we two in our pride and our joy can defy the powers of any other +heaven, we shall become gods ourselves! Up helm and away! Life is best!"</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="THE_NEVA" id="THE_NEVA"></a>THE NEVA.</h2> + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">I walk, as in a dream,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Beside the sweeping stream,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Wrapped in the summer midnight's amber haze:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Serene the temples stand,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">And sleep, on either hand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The palace-fronts along the granite quays.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">Where golden domes, remote,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Above the sea-mist float,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The river-arms, dividing, hurry forth;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">And Peter's fortress-spire,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">A slender lance of fire,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Still sparkles back the splendor of the North.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">The pillared angel soars<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Above the silent shores;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dark from his rock the horseman hangs in air;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">And down the watery line<br /></span> +<span class="i4">The exiled Sphinxes pine<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For Karnak's morning in the mellow glare.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">I hear, amid the hush,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">The restless current's rush,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Neva murmuring through his crystal zone:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">A voice portentous, deep,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">To charm a monarch's sleep<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With dreams of power resistless as his own.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">Strong from the stormy Lake,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Pure from the springs that break<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In Valdaï vales the forest's mossy floor,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Greener than beryl-stone<br /></span> +<span class="i4">From fir woods vast and lone,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In one full stream the braided currents pour.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Build up your granite piles<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Around my trembling isles,"<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I hear the River's scornful Genius say:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">"Raise for eternal time<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Your palaces sublime,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And flash your golden turrets in the day!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"But in my waters cold<br /></span> +<span class="i4">A mystery I hold,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of empires and of dynasties the fate:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">I bend my haughty will,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Unchanged, unconquered still,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And smile to note your triumph: mine can wait.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Your fetters I allow,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">As a strong man may bow<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His sportive neck to meet a child's command,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">And curb the conscious power<br /></span> +<span class="i4">That in one awful hour<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Could whelm your halls and temples where they stand.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"When infant Rurik first<br /></span> +<span class="i4">His Norseland mother nursed,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">My willing flood the future chieftain bore:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">To Alexander's fame<br /></span> +<span class="i4">I lent my ancient name,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">What time my waves ran red with Pagan gore.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Then Peter came. I laughed<br /></span> +<span class="i4">To feel his little craft<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Borne on my bosom round the marshy isles:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">His daring dream to aid,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">My chafing floods I laid,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And saw my shores transfixed with arrowy piles.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"I wait the far-off day<br /></span> +<span class="i4">When other dreams shall sway<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The House of Empire builded by my side,—<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Dreams that already soar<br /></span> +<span class="i4">From yonder palace-door,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And cast their wavering colors on my tide,—<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Dreams where white temples rise<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Below the purple skies,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By waters blue, which winter never frets,—<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Where trees of dusky green<br /></span> +<span class="i4">From terraced gardens lean,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And shoot on high the reedy minarets.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Shadows of mountain-peaks<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Vex my unshadowed creeks;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dark woods o'erhang my silvery birchen bowers;<br /></span> +<span class="i4">And islands, bald and high,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Break my clear round of sky,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And ghostly odors blow from distant flowers.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Then, ere the cold winds chase<br /></span> +<span class="i4">These visions from my face,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I see the starry phantom of a crown,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Beside whose blazing gold<br /></span> +<span class="i4">This cheating pomp is cold,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A moment hover, as the veil drops down.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Build on! That day shall see<br /></span> +<span class="i4">My streams forever free.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Swift as the wind, and silent as the snow,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">The frost shall split each wall:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Your domes shall crack and fall:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">My bolts of ice shall strike your barriers low!"<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">On palace, temple, spire,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">The morn's descending fire<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In thousand sparkles o'er the city fell:<br /></span> +<span class="i4">Life's rising murmur drowned<br /></span> +<span class="i4">The Neva where he wound<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Between his isles: he keeps his secret well.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="ROBSON" id="ROBSON"></a>ROBSON.</h2> + + +<p>In the whole of London there is not a dirtier, narrower, and more +disreputable thoroughfare than Wych Street. It runs from that lowest +part of Drury Lane where Nell Gwyn once had her lodgings, and stood at +her door in very primitive costume to see the milkmaids go a-Maying, and +parallel to Holywell Street and the Strand, into the church-yard of St. +Clements Danes. No good, it was long supposed, could ever come out of +Wych Street. The place had borne an evil name for centuries. Up a +horrible little court branching northward from it good old George +Cruikshank once showed me the house where Jack Sheppard, the robber and +prison-breaker, served his apprenticeship to Mr. Wood, the carpenter; +and on a beam in the loft of this house Jack is said to have carved his +name. When the pavement of the Strand is under repair, Wych Street +becomes, perforce, the principal channel of communication between the +east and the west end; and Theodore Hook used to say that he never +passed through Wych Street in a hackney-coach without being blocked up +by a hearse and a coal-wagon in the van, and a mud-cart and the Lord +Mayor's carriage in the rear. Wych Street is among the highways we +English are ashamed to show to foreigners. We have threatened to pull it +down bodily, any time these two hundred years, and a portion of the +southern side, on which the old Lyons Inn abutted, has indeed been +razed, preparatory to the erection of a grand metropolitan hotel on the +American system; but the funds appear not to be forthcoming; the scheme +languishes; and, on the other side of the street, another legal +hostelry, New Inn, still flourishes in weedy dampness, immovable in the +strength of vested interests. Many more years must, I am afraid, elapse +before we get rid of Wych Street. It is full of quaint old Tudor houses, +with tall gables, carved porches, and lattice-casements; but the +picturesque appearance of these tenements compensates but ill for their +being mainly dens of vice and depravity, inhabited by the vilest +offscourings of the enormous city. Next to <i>Napoli senza sole</i>, Wych +Street, Drury Lane, is, morally and physically, about the shadiest +street I know.</p> + +<p>In Wych Street stands, nevertheless, an oasis in the midst of a desert, +a pretty and commodious little theatre, called the Olympic. The +entertainments here provided have earned, for brilliance and elegance, +so well-deserved a repute, that the Olympic Theatre has become one of +the most favorite resorts of the British aristocracy. The Brahminical +classes appear oblivious of the yellow streak of caste, when they come +hither. On four or five nights in every week during the season, Drury +Lane is rendered well-nigh impassable by splendid equipages which have +conveyed dukes and marquises and members of Parliament to the Olympic. +Frequently, but prior to the lamented death of Prince Albert, you might +observe, if you passed through Wych Street in the forenoon, a little +platform, covered with faded red cloth, and shaded by a dingy, striped +awning, extending from one of the entrance-doors of the Olympic to the +edge of the sidewalk. The initiated became at once aware that Her Most +Gracious Majesty intended to visit the Olympic Theatre that very +evening. The Queen of England goes to theatres no more; but the Prince +of Wales and his pretty young wife, the stout, good-tempered Duke of +Cambridge, and his sister, the bonny Princess Mary, are still constant +visitors to Wych Street. So gorgeous is often the assemblage in this +murkiest of streets, that you are reminded of the days when the French +<i>noblesse</i>, in all the pride of hoops and hair-powder, deigned to flock +to the lowly wine-shop of Ramponneau.</p> + +<p>My business, however, is less with the Olympic Theatre, as it at present +exists, than with its immediate predecessor. About fifteen years ago, +there stood in Wych Street a queer, low-browed little building with a +rough wooden portico before it,—not unlike such a portico as I have +recently seen in front of a dilapidated inn at Culpepper, Virginia,—and +with little blinking windows, very much resembling the port-holes of a +man-of-war. According to tradition, the place had, indeed, a kind of +naval origin. Old King George III., who, when he was not mad, or +meddling with politics, was really a good-natured kind of man, once made +Philip Astley, the riding-master, and proprietor of the circus in South +Lambeth, a present of a dismantled seventy-four gun-ship captured from +the French. With these timbers, some lath and plaster, a few bricks, and +a little money, Astley ran up a theatre dedicated to the performance of +interludes and <i>burlettas</i>,—that is, of pieces in which the dialogue +was not spoken, but sung, in order to avoid interference with the +patent-rights of Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In our days, this edifice +was known as the Olympic. When I knew this theatre first, it had fallen +into a state of seemingly hopeless decadence. Nobody succeeded there. To +lease the Olympic Theatre was to court bankruptcy and invite collapse. +The charming Vestris had been its tenant for a while. There Liston and +Wrench had delighted the town with their most excellent fooling. There +many of Planche's most sparkling burlesques had been produced. There a +perfect boudoir of a green-room had been fitted up by Bartolozzi's +beautiful and witty daughter; and there Hook and Jerrold, Haynes Bayley +and A' Beckett had uttered their wittiest sayings. But the destiny of +the Olympic was indomitable. There was nae luck about the house; and +Eliza Vestris went bankrupt at last. Management after management tried +its fortunes in the doomed little house, but without success. Desperate +adventurers seized upon it as a last resource, or chose it as a place +wherein to consummate their ruin. The Olympic was contiguous to the +Insolvent Debtors' Court, in Portugal Street, and from the paint-pots of +the Olympic scene-room to the whitewash of the commercial tribunal there +was but one step.</p> + +<p>It must have been in 1848 that the famous comedian, William Farren, +having realized a handsome fortune as an actor, essayed to lose a +considerable portion of his wealth by becoming a manager. He succeeded +in the last-named enterprise quite as completely as he had done in the +other: I mean, that he lost a large sum of money in the Olympic Theatre. +He played all kinds of pieces: among others, he gave the public two very +humorous burlesques, founded on Shakspeare's plays of "Macbeth" and "The +Merchant of Venice." The authors were two clever young Oxford men: Frank +Talfourd, the son of the poet-Judge,—father and son are, alas! both +dead,—and William Hale, the son of the well-known Archdeacon and Master +of the Charter-House. Shakspearian burlesques were no novelty to the +town. We had had enough and to spare of them. W. J. Hammond, the +original <i>Sam Weller</i> in the dramatized version of "Pickwick," had made +people laugh in "Macbeth Travestie" and "Othello according to Act of +Parliament." The Olympic burlesques were slightly funnier, and not +nearly so coarse as their forerunners; but they were still of no +striking salience. Poorly mounted, feebly played,—save in one +particular,—they drew but thin houses. Gradually, however, you began to +hear at clubs and in critical coteries—at the Albion and the Garrick +and the Café de l'Europe, at Evans's and at Kilpack's, at the Réunion in +Maiden Lane and at Rules's oyster-room, where poor Albert Smith used to +reign supreme—rumors about a new actor. The new man was playing +<i>Macbeth</i> and <i>Shylock</i> in Talfourd and Hale's parodies. He was a little +stunted fellow, not very well-favored, not very young. Nobody—among the +bodies who were anybody—had ever heard of him before. Whence he came, +or what he was, none knew; but everybody came at last to care. For this +little stunted creature, with his hoarse voice and nervous gestures and +grotesque delivery, his snarls, his leers, his hunchings of the +shoulders, his contortions of the limbs, his gleaming of the eyes, and +his grindings of the teeth, was a genius. He became town-talk. He +speedily grew famous. He has been an English, I might almost say a +European, I might almost say a worldwide celebrity ever since; and his +name was <span class="smcap">Frederick Robson</span>.</p> + +<p>Eventually it was known, when the town grew inquisitive, and the critics +were compelled to ferret out his antecedents, that the new actor had +already attained middle age,—that he had been vegetating for years in +that obscurest and most miserable of all dramatic positions, the low +comedian of a country-theatre,—that he had come timidly to London and +accepted at a low salary the post of buffoon at a half-theatre +half-saloon in the City Road, called indifferently the "Grecian" and the +"Eagle," where he had danced and tumbled, and sung comic songs, and +delivered the dismal waggeries set down for him, without any marked +success, and almost without notice. He was a quiet, unassuming little +man, this Robson, seemingly without vanity and without ambition. He had +a wife and family to maintain, and drew his twenty-five or thirty +shillings weekly with perfect patience and resignation.</p> + +<p>A weary period, however, elapsed between his appearance at the Olympic +and his realization of financial success. The critics and the +connoisseurs talked about him a long time before the public could be +persuaded to go and see him, or the manager to raise his salary. That +doomed house with the wooden portico was in the way. At last the +wretched remnant of the French seventy-four caught fire and was burned +to the ground. Its ill-luck was consistent to the last. A poor actor, +named Bender, had engaged the Olympic for a benefit. He was to pay +twenty pounds for the use of the house. He had just sold nineteen +pounds' worth of tickets, and trusted to the casual receipts at the door +for his profits. At a few minutes before six o'clock, having to play in +the first piece, he proceeded to the theatre, and entered his +dressing-room. By half-past six the whole house was in a blaze. Bender, +half undressed, had only time to save himself; and his coat, with the +nineteen pounds in the pocket, fell a prey to the flames. After this, +will you tell me that there is not such a thing as ill-luck?</p> + +<p>The Olympic arose "like a phœnix from its ashes." To use language +less poetical, a wealthy tradesman—a cheesemonger, I think—found the +capital to build up a new theatre. The second edifice was elegant, and +almost splendid; but in the commencement it seemed fated to undergo as +evil fortune as its precursor. I cannot exactly remember whether it was +in the old or the new Olympic—but I think it was in the new one—that +the notorious Walter Watts ran a brief and sumptuous career as manager. +He produced many pieces, some of them his own, in a most luxurious +manner. He was a man about town, a <i>viveur</i>, a dandy; and it turned out +one morning that Walter Watts had been, all along, a clerk in the Globe +Insurance Office, at a salary of a hundred and fifty pounds a year; and +that he had swindled his employers out of enormous sums of money. He was +tried, nominally for stealing "a piece of paper, value one penny," being +a check which he had abstracted; but it was understood that his +defalcations were little short of ninety thousand pounds sterling. Watts +was convicted, and sentenced to ten years' transportation. The poor +wretch was not of the heroically villanous mould in which the dashing +criminals who came after him, Robson and Redpath, were cast. He was +troubled with a conscience. He had drunk himself into delirium tremens; +and starting from his pallet one night in a remorseful frenzy, he hanged +himself in the jail.</p> + +<p>It was during the management of Alfred Wigan at the New Olympic that +Frederick Robson began to be heard of again. An old, and not a very +clever farce, by one of the Brothers Mayhew, entitled "The Wandering +Minstrel," had been revived. In this farce, Robson was engaged to play +the part of <i>Jem Baggs</i>, an itinerant vocalist and flageolet-player, +who, in tattered attire, roams about from town to town, making the air +hideous with his performances. The part was a paltry one, and Robson, +who had been engaged mainly at the instance of the manager's wife, a +very shrewd and appreciative lady, who persisted in declaring that the +ex-low-comedian of the Grecian had "something in him," eked it out by +singing an absurd ditty called "Vilikins and his Dinah." The words and +the air of "Vilikins" were, if not literally as old as the hills, +considerably older than the age of Queen Elizabeth. The story told in +the ballad, of a father's cruelty, a daughter's anguish, a sweetheart's +despair, and the ultimate suicide of both the lovers, is, albeit couched +in uncouth and grotesque language, as pathetic as the tragedy of "Romeo +and Juliet." Robson gave every stanza a nonsensical refrain of "Right +tooral lol looral, right tooral lol lay." At times, when his audience +was convulsed with merriment, he would come to a halt, and gravely +observe, "This is not a comic song"; but London, was soon unanimous that +such exquisite comicality had not been heard for many a long year. +"Vilikins and his Dinah" created a <i>furore</i>. My countrymen are always +going mad about something; and Englishmen and Englishwomen all agreed to +go crazy about "Vilikins." "Right tooral lol looral" was on every lip. +Robson's portrait as <i>Jem Baggs</i> was in every shop-window. A newspaper +began an editorial with the first line in "Vilikins,"—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"It's of a liquor-merchant who in London did dwell."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>A Judge of Assize absolutely fined the High Sheriff of a county one +hundred pounds for the mingled contempt shown in neglecting to provide +him with an escort of javelin-men and introducing the irrepressible +"Right tooral lol looral" into a speech delivered at the opening of +circuit. Nor was the song all that was wonderful in <i>Jem Baggs</i>. His +"make-up" was superb. The comic genius of Robson asserted itself in an +inimitable lagging gait, an unequalled snivel, a coat and pantaloons +every patch on and every rent in which were artistic, and a hat +inconceivably battered, crunched, and bulged out of normal, and into +preternatural shape.</p> + +<p>New triumphs awaited him. In the burlesque of "The Yellow Dwarf," he +showed a mastery of the grotesque which approached the terrible. Years +before, in <i>Macbeth</i>, he had personated a red-headed, fire-eating, +whiskey-drinking Scotchman,—and in <i>Shylock</i>, a servile, fawning, +obsequious, yet, when emergency arose, a passionate and vindictive Jew. +In the <i>Yellow Dwarf</i> he was the jaundiced embodiment of a spirit of +Oriental evil: crafty, malevolent, greedy, insatiate,—full of mockery, +mimicry, lubricity, and spite,—an Afrit, a Djinn, a Ghoul, a spawn of +Sheitan. How that monstrous orange-tawny head grinned and wagged! How +those flaps of ears were projected forwards, like unto those of a dog! +How balefully those atrabilious eyes glistened! You laughed, and yet you +shuddered. He spoke in mere doggerel and slang. He sang trumpery songs +to negro melodies. He danced the Lancashire clog-hornpipe; he rattled +out puns and conundrums; yet did he contrive to infuse into all this +mummery and buffoonery, into this salmagundi of the incongruous and the +<i>outré</i>, an unmistakably tragic element,—an element of depth and +strength and passion, and almost of sublimity. The mountebank became +inspired. The Jack Pudding suddenly drew the <i>cothurnus</i> over his clogs. +You were awe-stricken by the intensity, the vehemence, he threw into the +mean balderdash of the burlesque-monger. These qualities were even more +apparent in his subsequent personation of <i>Medea</i>, in Robert Brough's +parody of the Franco-Italian tragedy. The love, the hate, the scorn, of +the abandoned wife of <i>Jason</i>, the diabolic loathing in which she holds +<i>Creüsa</i>, the tigerish affection with which she regards the children +whom she is afterwards to slay,—all these were portrayed by Robson, +through the medium, be it always remembered, of doggerel and slang, with +astonishing force and vigor. The original <i>Medea</i>, the great Ristori +herself, came to see Robson, and was delighted with and amazed at him. +She scarcely understood two words of English, but the actor's genius +struck her home through the bull's-hide target of an unknown tongue. +<i>"Uomo straordinario!"</i> she went away saying.</p> + +<p>I have anticipated the order of his successes, but at this distance of +time and places I can keep no chronological count of them. Robson has +always alternated the serio-comic burlesque with pure farce, and after +<i>Jem Baggs</i> his brightest hits have been in the deaf ostler in "Boots at +the Swan" and the discharged criminal in "Retained for the Defence." In +the burlesque of "Masaniello," he had an opportunity—which some thought +would prove a magnificent one to him—of showing the grotesque side of +insanity; but, for some reason or other, the part seemed distasteful to +him. It may have been repugnant to his eminently sensitive spirit to +exhibit the ludicrous aspect of the most dreadful of human infirmities. +<i>A peste, fame, bello, et dementia libera nos, Domine!</i> Perhaps the +piece itself was weak. At all events, "Masaniello" had but a brief run. +A drunken man, a jealous man, a deaf man, a fool, a vagabond, a demon, a +tyrant, Robson could marvellously depict: in the crazy Neapolitan +fisherman he either failed or was unwilling to excel. I had been for a +long period extremely solicitous to see Robson undertake the part of +<i>Sir Giles Overreach</i> in "A New Way to pay Old Debts." You know that +<i>Sir Giles</i>, after the discovery of the obliterated deed, goes stark +staring mad. I should have wished to see him assume Edmund Kean's own +character in the real play itself; but Robson was nervous of venturing +on a purely "legitimate" <i>rôle</i>. I was half persuaded to write a +burlesque on "A New Way to pay Old Debts," and Robson had promised to do +his very best with <i>Sir Giles</i>; but a feeling, half of laziness, and +half of reverence for the fine old drama, came over me, and I never got +farther than the first scene.</p> + +<p>By this time some of the foremost dramatists in London thought they +could discern in Robson latent characteristics of a nature far more +elevated than those which his previous performances had brought into +play. It was decided by those who had a right to render an authoritative +verdict, that he would shine best in that which we call the "domestic +drama." Here it was thought his broad fun, rustic waggery, and curious +mastery of provincial dialect might admirably contrast with the +melodramatic intensity, and the homely, but touching pathos of which in +so eminent a degree he was the master. Hence the dramas, written +expressly and deliberately to his measure and capacity, of "Daddy +Hardacre," "The Porter's Knot," and "The Chimney-Corner." When I say +written, I mean, of course, translated. Our foremost dramatists have not +yet ceased to borrow from the French; but, like the gypsies, they so +skilfully mutilate the children they have stolen, that the theft becomes +almost impossible to detect. Not one person in five hundred, for +instance, would discover at first sight that a play so apparently +English in conception and structure as the "Ticket-of-Leave Man" is, in +reality, a translation from the French.</p> + +<p>The success achieved by Robson in the dramas I have named was extended, +and was genuine. In <i>Daddy Hardacre</i>, a skilful adaptation of the usurer +in Balzac's "Eugénie Grandet," he was tremendous. It made me more than +ever wishful to see him in the griping, ruthless <i>Overreach</i>, foiled at +last in his wicked ambition and driven to frenzy by the destruction of +the document by which he thought to satisfy his lust of gain. Molière's +<i>Avare</i> I thought he would have acted wonderfully; Ben Jonson's +<i>Volpone</i>, in "The Fox," he would surely have understood, and powerfully +rendered. In the devoted father of "The Porter's Knot" he was likewise +most excellent: quiet, unaffected, unobtrusive, never forcing sentiment +upon you, never obtaining tears by false pretences, but throughout +solid, sterling, natural, admirable. I came at last, however, to the +conviction, that, marked as was the distinction gained by this good +actor in parts such as these, and as the lighthouse-keeper—the +character originally sustained in private by Charles Dickens—in Wilkie +Collins's play, domestic drama was not his <i>forte</i>; or, rather, that it +was not his <i>fortissimo</i>. In fantastic burlesque, in the comic-terrible, +he was unrivalled and inimitable. In the domestic drama he could hardly +be surpassed, but he might be approached. Webster, Emery, Addison, could +play <i>Daddy Hardacre</i>, or the father in "The Porter's Knot"; but none +but himself could at once awe and convulse in <i>Medea</i> and <i>the Yellow +Dwarf</i>. These domestic dramas interested, however, as much by their +subject as by the excellence of his acting. Moreover, the public are apt +sometimes to grow weary of burlesques,—their eternal grimacing and +word-torturing and negro-singing and dancing. Themes for parody become +exhausted, and, without long surcease, would not bear repetition. You +may grow puns, like tobacco, until the soil is utterly worn out. The +burlesque-writers, too, exhibited signs of weariness and feebleness. +Planché retired into the Heralds' College. The cleverest of the Broughs +died. His surviving brother was stupid. Talfourd went to the law before +he found an early grave. Hale went to India. The younger generation were +scarcely fit to write pantomimes, and it was not always Christmas. +Besides, Robson had become a manager, and thought, perhaps, that +weightier parts became him. In copartnership with Mr. Emden, he had +succeeded Alfred Wigan as lessee of the Olympic, and there I hope he has +realized a fortune. But whenever his brief vacations occurred, and +actor-like he proceeded to turn them into gold by devoting to +performances in country-theatres those days and nights which should +properly have been given to rest and peace, he proved faithful to his +old loves, and <i>Jem Baggs</i> and <i>Boots at the Swan</i>, <i>Medea</i> and <i>the +Yellow Dwarf</i>, continued to be his favorite parts.</p> + +<p>The popularity attained in England by this most remarkable of modern +actors has never, since the public were first aware of his qualities, +decreased. Robson is always sure to draw. The nights of his playing, or +of his non-playing, at the Olympic, are as sure a gauge of the receipts +as the rising and falling of the mercury in the thermometer are of the +variations of the temperature. A month's absence of Robson from London +always brought about an alarming depletion in the Olympic treasury. +Unhappily, these absences have of late years become more frequent, and +more and more prolonged. The health of the great tragi-comedian has +gradually failed him. I have been for a long period without news from +him; but I much fear that the heyday of his health and strength is past. +The errors which made Edmund Kean, in the prime of life, a shattered +wreck, cannot be brought home to Frederick Robson. Rumors, the wildest +and the wickedest, have been circulated about him, as about every other +public man; but, to the best of my knowledge and belief, they are wholly +destitute of foundation. <i>Don Basilio</i>, in Beaumarchais's play, might +have added some very pregnant advice to his memorable counsel, +"<i>Calomniez, calomniez, il en résultera toujours quelque chose</i>." He +should have taught the world—if the world wants teaching—<i>how</i> to +calumniate. The following recipe will be found, I think, infallible. If +your enemy be a man of studious and retired habits, hint that he has +gone mad; if you see him alone at a theatre or at church, report that he +is separated from his wife; <i>and in any case, declare that he drinks</i>. +He can't disprove it. If he drinks water out-of-doors, he may drink like +a fish at home. If he walks straight on the street, he may reel in the +parlor.</p> + +<p>Thus, scores of times, the gossip-mongers of English provincial +papers—the legion of "our own correspondents," who are a nuisance and a +curse to reputable society, wherever that society is to be found—have +attributed the vacillating health and the intermittent retirements from +the stage of the great actor to an over-fondness for brandy-and-water. +The sorrowful secret of all this is, I apprehend, that poor Robson has +for years been overworking himself,—and that latterly prosperity has +laid as heavy a tax upon his time and energy as necessity imposed upon +them when he was young. Dame Fortune, whether she smile, or whether she +frown, never ceases to be a despot. Over Dives and over Lazarus she +equally tyrannizes. In wealth and in poverty does she exact the pound of +flesh or the pound of soul. There are seasons in a man's life when +Fortune with a radiant savageness cries out to him, "Confound you! you +<i>shall</i> make fifty thousand a year"; and she drives him onward to the +goal quite as remorselessly as ever slave-owner drove negro into a +rice-ground. The whip that is made of golden wire hurts quite as much, I +opine, as the cowhide. And when, at last, the fortunate man cries out, +"I am rich, I have enough, <i>Sat me lusistis, ludite nunc alios</i>, I will +work and fret myself no more, I will retire on my dividends, and sit me +down under my own fig-tree,"—Fortune dismisses him with a sneer: +"Retire, if you like!" cries the implacable, "but take hypochondria and +<i>ennui</i>, take gout and the palsy, with you."</p> + +<p>I should be infinitely rejoiced to hear, when I go back, that Robson is +once more a hale and valid man. It is the tritest of platitudes to say +that he could ill be spared by the English stage. We never <i>can</i> spare a +good actor. As well can we spare a good book or a good picture. But +there would be much cause for gratulation, if Robson were spared, ere +his powers definitively decline, to visit the United States. The +American people ought to see Robson. They have had our tragedians, good, +bad, and indifferent. They have filled the pockets of William Macready +and of Charles Kean with dollars. They have heard our men-singers and +our women-singers,—the birds that can sing, and the birds that can't +sing, but <i>will</i> sing. The most notable of our drolls, Buckstone and +Keeley, have been here, and have received a cordial welcome. But Robson +has hitherto been lacking on this side the Atlantic. That he would be +thoroughly appreciated by the theatrical public of America I cannot for +one instant doubt. It is given to England to produce eccentrics, but for +other nations to understand them better than the English do. The Germans +are better critics of the satire of Hogarth, the French of the humor of +Sterne, and the Americans of the philosophy of Shakspeare, than we to +whose country those illustrious belong. In Boston, in New York, in +Philadelphia, crowded and enthusiastic audiences would, I venture to +foretell, hang on the utterances of Robson, and expound to their own +entire satisfaction his most eloquent by-play, his subtlest gestures. It +would be idle, in the endeavor to give him something like a palpable +aspect to people who have never seen him, to compare him with other +great actors yet extant, or who have gone before. In his bursts of +passion, in his vehement soliloquies, in the soul-harrowing force of his +simulated invective, he is said to resemble Edmund Kean; but how are you +to judge of an actor who in his comic moments certainly approaches the +image we have formed to ourselves of Munden and Dowton, of Bannister and +Suett? To say that he is a Genius, and the Prince of Eccentrics, is +perhaps the only way to cut the Gordian knot of criticism in his +instance.</p> + +<p>Let me add, in conclusion, that Robson, off the stage, is one of the +mildest, modestest, most unassuming of men. Painfully nervous he always +was. I remember, a dozen years since, and when I was personally +unacquainted with him, writing in some London newspaper a eulogistic +criticism on one of his performances. I learned from friends that he had +read the article, and had expressed himself as deeply grateful to me for +it. I just knew him by sight; but for months afterwards, if I met him in +the street, he used to blush crimson, and made as sudden a retreat round +the nearest corner as was possible. He said afterwards that he hadn't +the courage to thank me. I brought him to bay at last, and came to know +him very well; and then I discovered how the nervousness, the +bashfulness, the <i>mauvaise honte</i>, which made him so shy and retiring in +private, stood him in wonderful stead on the stage. The nervous man +became the fretful and capricious tyrant of mock tragedy; the bashful +man warmed at the foot-lights with passion and power. The manner which +in society was a drawback and a defect became in the pursuit of his art +a charm and an excellence. What new parts may be created for Robson, and +how he will acquit himself in them, I cannot presume to prophesy; but it +is certain that he has already done enough to win for himself in the +temple of dramatic fame a niche all the more to be envied, as its form +and pattern must be, like its occupant, unprecedented and original.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="THE_PARALLEL_ROADS_OF_GLEN_ROY_IN_SCOTLAND" id="THE_PARALLEL_ROADS_OF_GLEN_ROY_IN_SCOTLAND"></a>THE PARALLEL ROADS OF GLEN ROY, IN SCOTLAND.</h2> + + +<p>There are phenomena in Nature which give the clue to so many of its +mysteries that their correct interpretation leads at once to the +broadest generalizations and to the rapid advance of science in new +directions. The explanation of one very local and limited problem may +clear up many collateral ones, since its solution includes the answer to +a whole set of kindred inquiries. The "parallel roads" of Glen Roy offer +such a problem. For half a century they have been the subject of patient +investigation and the boldest speculation. To them natural philosophers +have returned again and again to test their theories, and until they are +fully understood no steady or permanent advance can be made in the +various views which they have suggested to different observers. The +theory of the formation of lakes by barriers, presented by McCulloch and +Sir T. Lauder-Dick, that of continental upheavals and subsidences, +advocated by Sir Charles Lyell and Charles Darwin, that of inundations +by great floods, maintained by Professor H. D. Rogers and Sir George +Mackenzie, that of glacial action, brought forward by myself, have been +duly discussed with reference to this difficult case; all have found +their advocates, all have met with warm opposition, and the matter still +remains a mooted point; but the one of all these theories which shall +stand the test of time and repeated examination and be eventually +accepted will explain many a problem besides the one it was meant to +solve, and lead to farther progress in other directions.</p> + +<p>I propose here to reconsider the facts of the case, and to present anew +my own explanation of them, now more than twenty years old, but which I +have never had an opportunity of publishing in detail under a popular +form, though it appeared in the scientific journals of the day.</p> + +<p>Before considering, however, the phenomena of Glen Roy, or the special +glacial areas scattered over Scotland and the other British Isles, let +us see what general evidence we have that glaciers ever existed at all +in that realm. The reader will pardon me, if, at the risk of repetition, +I sum up here the indications which, from our knowledge of glaciers as +they at present exist, must be admitted, wherever they are found, as +proof of their former existence. Such a summary may serve also as a +guide to those who would look for glacial traces where they have not +hitherto been sought.</p> + +<p>In the first place, we have to consider the singular abrasion of the +surfaces over which the glacier has moved, quite unlike that produced by +the action of water. We have seen that such surfaces, wherever the +glacier-marks have not been erased by some subsequent action, have +several unfailing characteristics: they are highly polished, and they +are also marked with scratches or fine <i>striæ</i>, with grooves and deeper +furrows. Where best preserved, the smooth surfaces are shining; they +have a lustre like stone or marble artificially polished by the combined +friction and pressure of some harder material than itself until all its +inequalities have been completely levelled and its surface has become +glossy. Any marble mantel-piece may serve as an example of this kind of +glacier-worn surface.</p> + +<p>The levelling and abrading action of water on rock has an entirely +different character. Tides or currents driven powerfully and constantly +against a rocky shore, and bringing with them hard materials, may +produce blunt, smooth surfaces, such as the repeated blows of a hammer +on stone would cause; but they never bring it to a high polish, because, +the grinding materials not being held steadily down, in firm, permanent +contact with the rocky surfaces against which they move, as is the case +with the glacier, but, on the contrary, dashed to and fro, they strike +and rebound, making a succession of blows, but never a continuous, +uninterrupted pressure and friction. The same is true of all the marks +made on rocky shores against which loose materials are driven by +water-currents. They are separate, disconnected, fragmentary; whereas +the lines drawn by the hard materials set in the glacier, whether light +and fine or strong and deep, are continuous, often unbroken for long +distances, and rectilinear. Indeed, we have seen<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> that we have beneath +every glacier a complete apparatus adapted to all the results described +above. In the softer fragments ground to the finest powder under the +incumbent mass we have a polishing paste; in the hard materials set in +that paste, whether pebbles, or angular rocky fragments of different +sizes, or grains of sand, we have the various graving instruments by +which the finer or coarser lines are drawn. Not only are these lines +frequently uninterrupted for a distance of many yards, but they are also +parallel, except when some change takes place in the thickness of the +ice, which may slightly modify the trend of the mass, or where lines in +a variety of directions are produced by the intermittent action of +separate glaciers running successively at different angles over the same +surfaces. The deeper grooves sometimes present a succession of short +staccato touches, just as when one presses the finger vertically along +some surface where the resistance is sufficient to interrupt the action +without actually stopping it,—a kind of grating motion, showing how +firmly the instrument which produced it must have been held in the +moving mass. No currents or sudden freshets carrying hard materials with +them, even moving along straight paths down hill-sides or +mountain-slopes, have ever been known to draw any such lines. They could +be made only by some instrument held fast as in a vice by the moving +power. Something of the kind is occasionally produced by the drag of a +wheel grating over rocks covered with loose materials.</p> + +<p>It has been said that grounded ice or icebergs floating along a rocky +shore might produce similar marks; but they will chiefly be at the level +of high-water mark, and, if grounded, they will trend in various +directions, owing to the rocking or rotating movement of the iceberg. It +has also been urged, that, without admitting any general glacier-period, +icebergs and floating ice from more northern latitudes might account for +the extensive transportation of the loose materials scattered in a +continuous sheet over a large portion of the globe. There can be no +doubt that an immense amount of <i>débris</i> of all sorts is carried to +great distances by floating ice; where their presence is due to this +cause, however, they are everywhere stranded along the shore or dropped +to the sea-bottom. Large boulders are frequently left by the ice along +the New-England coast, and we shall trace them hereafter among the +sand-dunes of Cape Cod. But before it can be admitted that the +drift-phenomena, and the polished and engraved surfaces with which they +are everywhere intimately associated, are owing to floating ice or +icebergs, it must be shown that all these appearances have been produced +by some agency moving from the sea-board towards the land, and extending +up to the very summits of the mountains, or else that all the countries +exhibiting glacial phenomena have been sunk below the ocean to the +greatest height at which glacier-marks are found, and have since +gradually emerged to their present level. Now, though geologists are +lavish of immersions when something is to be accounted for which they +cannot otherwise explain, and a fresh baptism of old Mother Earth is +made to wash away many obstacles to scientific theories, yet the common +sense of the world will hardly admit the latter assumption without +positive proof, and all the evidence of the kind we have, at the period +under consideration, indicates only a comparatively slight change of +relative level between sea and land within a narrow belt along the +shores; and even this is shown to be posterior, not anterior, to the +glacial phenomena. As to the supposition that the motion proceeded from +the sea towards the land, all the facts are against it, since the whole +trend of these phenomena is from inland centres toward the shore, +instead of being from the coast upward.</p> + +<p>Certainly, no one familiar with the facts could suppose that floating +ice or icebergs had abraded, polished, and furrowed the bottom of narrow +valleys as we find them worn, polished, and grooved by glaciers. And it +must be remembered that this is a theory founded not upon hypothesis, +but upon the closest comparison. I have not become acquainted with these +marks in regions where glaciers no longer exist, and made a theory to +explain their presence. I have, on the contrary, studied them where they +are in process of formation. I have seen the glacier engrave its lines, +plough its grooves and furrows in the solid rock, and polish the +surfaces over which it moved, and was familiar with all this when I +found afterwards appearances corresponding exactly to those which I had +investigated in the home of the present glaciers. I could therefore say, +and I think with some reason, that "this also is the work of the glacier +acting in ancient times as it now acts in Switzerland."</p> + +<p>There is another character of glacial action distinguishing it from any +abrasions caused by water, even if freighted with a large amount of +loose materials. On any surface over which water flows we shall find +that the softer materials have yielded first and most completely. Hard +dikes will be left standing out, while softer rocks around them are worn +away,—furrows will be eaten into more deeply,—fissures will be +widened,—clay-slates will be wasted,—while hard sandstone or limestone +and granite will show greater resistance. Not so with surfaces over +which the levelling plough of the glacier has passed. Wherever softer +and harder rocks alternate, they are brought to one outline; where dikes +intersect softer rock, they are cut to one level with it; where rents or +fissures traverse the rock, they do not seem to have been widened or +scooped out more deeply, but their edges are simply abraded on one line +with the adjoining surfaces. Whatever be the inequality in the hardness +of the materials of which the rock consists, even in the case of +pudding-stone, the surface is abraded so evenly as to leave the +impression that a rigid rasp has moved over all the undulations of the +land, advancing in one and the same direction and levelling all before +it.</p> + +<p>Among the inequalities of the glacier-worn surfaces which deserve +especial notice, are the so-called "<i>roches moutonnées</i>." They are +knolls of a peculiar appearance, frequent in the Alps, and first noticed +by the illustrious De Saussure, who designated them by that name, +because, where they are numerous and seen from a distance, they resemble +the rounded backs of a flock of sheep resting on the ground. These +knolls are the result of the prolonged abrasion of masses of rocks +separated by deep indentations wide enough to be filled up by large +glaciers, overtopping the summits of the intervening prominences, and +passing over them like a river, or like tide-currents flowing over a +submerged ledge of rock. It is evident that water rushing over such +sunken hills or ledges, adapting itself readily to all the inequalities +over which it flows, and forming eddies against the obstacles in its +course, will scoop out tortuous furrows upon the bottom, and hollow out +rounded cavities against the walls, acting especially along preëxisting +fissures and upon the softer parts of the rock,—while the glacier, +moving as a solid mass, and carrying on its under side its gigantic file +set in a fine paste, will in course of time abrade uniformly the angles +against which it strikes, equalize the depressions between the prominent +masses, and round them off until they present those smooth bulging +knolls known as the "<i>roches moutonnées</i>" in the Alps, and so +characteristic everywhere of glacier-action. A comparison of any +tide-worn hummock with such a glacier-worn mound will convince the +observer that its smooth and evenly rounded surface was never produced +by water.</p> + +<p>Besides their peculiar form, the <i>roches moutonnées</i> present all the +characteristic features of glacier-action in their polished surfaces +accompanied with the straight lines, grooves, and furrows above +described. But there are two circumstances connected with these knolls +deserving special notice. They frequently present the glacial marks only +on one side, while the opposite side has all the irregularities and +roughness of a hill-slope not acted upon by ice. It is evident that the +polished side was the one turned towards the advancing glacier, the side +against which the ice pressed in its onward movement,—while it passed +over the other side, the lee side as we may call it, without coming in +immediate contact with it, bridging the depression, and touching bottom +again a little farther on. As an additional evidence of this fact, we +frequently find on the lee side of such knolls accumulations of the +loose materials which the glacier carries with it. It is only, however, +when the knolls are quite high, and abrupt enough to allow any rigid +substance to bridge over the space in its descent from the summit to the +surface below, that we find these conditions; when the knolls are low +and slope gently downward in every direction, they present the +characteristic glacier-surfaces equally on all sides. This circumstance +should be borne in mind by all who investigate the traces of +glacier-action; for this inequality in the surfaces presented by the +opposite sides of any obstacle in the path of the ice is often an +important means of determining the direction of its motion.</p> + +<p>The other characteristic peculiarity of these <i>roches moutonnées</i> +consists in the direction of the glacier-scratches, which ascend the +slope to its summit in a direct line on one side, while they deviate to +the right and left on the other sides of the knoll, more or less +obliquely according to its steepness. Occasionally, large boulders may +be found perched on the very summit of such prominences. Their position +is inexplicable by the supposition of currents as the cause of their +transportation. Any current strong enough to carry a boulder to such a +height would of course sweep it on with it. This phenomenon finds, +however, an easy explanation in the glacial theory. The thickness of +such a sheet of ice is of course less above such a hill or mound than +over the lower levels adjoining it. Not only will the ice melt, +therefore, more readily at this spot, but, as ice is transparent to +heat, the summit of the prominence will become warmed by the rays of the +sun, and will itself facilitate the melting of the ice above it. On the +breaking up of the ice, therefore, such a spot will be the first to +yield, and allow the boulders carried on the back of the glacier to fall +into the hollow thus formed, where they will rest upon the projecting +rock left uncovered. This is no theoretical explanation; there are such +cases in Switzerland, where holes in the ice are formed immediately +above the summit of hills or prominences over which the glacier passes, +and into which it drops its burdens. Of course, where the ice is +constantly renewed over such a spot by the onward progress of the +glacier, these materials may be carried off again; but if we suppose +such a case to occur at the breaking up of the glacier-period, when the +ice was disappearing forever from such a spot, it is easy to account for +the poising of these large boulders on prominent peaks or ledges.</p> + +<p>The appearances about the <i>roches moutonnées</i>, especially the straight +scratches and grooves on the side up which the ice ascended, have led to +a mistaken view of the mode in which large boulders are transported by +ice. It has been supposed, by those who, while they accepted the glacial +theory, were not wholly conversant with the mode of action of glaciers, +that, in passing through the bottom of a valley, for instance, the +glacier would take up large boulders, and, carrying them along with it, +would push them up such a slope and deposit them on its summit. It is +true that large boulders may sometimes be found in front of glaciers +among the materials of their terminal moraines, and may, upon any +advance of the glacier, be pushed forward by it. But I know of no +example of erratic boulders being carried to considerable distances and +raised from lower to higher levels by this means. All the angular +boulders perched upon prominent rocks must have fallen upon the surface +of the glacier in the upper part of its course, where rocky ledges rise +above its surface and send down their broken fragments. The surface of +any boulder carried under the ice, or pushed along for any distance at +its terminus, would show the friction and pressure to which it had been +subjected. In this connection it should be remembered that in the case +of large glaciers low hills form no obstacle to their onward progress, +especially when the glacier is thick enough to cover them completely, +and even to rise far above them. The <i>roches moutonnées</i> about the +Grimsel show that hills many hundred feet high have been passed over by +the great glacier of the Aar, when it descended as far as Meyringen, +without having seemingly influenced its onward progress.</p> + +<p>But in enumerating the evidences of glacier-action, we have to remember +not only the effects produced upon the surface of the ground by the ice +itself, but also the deposits it has left behind it. The loose materials +scattered over the face of the earth may point as distinctly to the +source of their distribution as does the character of the rocky surfaces +on which they rest indicate the different causes of abrasion. In +characteristic localities the loose materials deposited by glaciers may +readily be recognized at first sight, and distinguished from water-worn +pebbles; nor is it difficult to distinguish both from loose materials +resulting from the decomposition of rocks on the spot,—the latter +always agreeing with the rocks on which they rest, while the +decomposition to which they owe their separation from the solid rock is +often still going on. Such <i>débris</i> are found everywhere about +disintegrating rocks, and they constantly mingle with the loose +fragments brought from a distance by various agencies. They are found +upon and among the glacier-worn pebbles, especially where the latter +have themselves been disturbed since their accumulation. They are also +found among water-worn pebbles, wherever the rocky beds of our rivers or +the rocky bluffs of our sea-shores crumble down. In investigating the +character of loose materials transported from greater or less distances, +either by the agency of glaciers or by water-currents, it is important +at the very outset to discriminate between these deposits of older date +and the local accessions mingling with them.</p> + +<p>Occasionally we may have also to distinguish between all these deposits +and the <i>débris</i> brought down by land-slides, or by sudden freshets +transporting to a distance a vast amount of loose materials which are +neither ice-worn nor water-worn. At Rossberg, for instance, in the +Canton of Schwitz, the land-slide which buried the village of Goldau +under a terrific avalanche, and filled a part of the Lake of Lauertz, +spread an immense number of huge boulders across the valley, some of +which even rolled up the opposite side to a considerable height. Many of +these boulders might easily be mistaken for erratic boulders, were not +the aggregate of these loose materials traceable to the hills from which +they descended. In this case water had no part in loosening or bringing +down this mass of fragments. They simply rolled from the declivity, and +stopped when they had exhausted the momentum imparted to them by their +weight. In the case of the <i>débâcle</i> of Bagnes, above Martigny, in a +valley leading to the St. Bernard, the circumstances were very +different. A glacier, advancing beyond its usual limits and rising +against the opposite mountain-slope, dammed up the waters of the torrent +and caused a lake to be formed. The obstruction gave way in the course +of time, and the waters of the lake rushed out, carrying along with +them huge boulders and a mass of loose materials of all sorts, and +scattering them over the plain below. Such an accumulation of <i>débris</i> +differs from the pebbles and loose fragments found in river-beds. The +comparatively short distance over which they are carried, and the +suddenness of the transportation, allow no time for the abrasion which +produces the smooth surfaces of water-worn pebbles or the polished and +scratched surfaces of glacier-worn ones. In the latter case, we have +seen that the pebbles, being so set in the ice as to expose only one +side, may be only partially polished, while others, more loosely held +and turning in their sockets, may receive the same high polish on every +side. In such a case the lines will intersect one another, in +consequence of the different position in which the stone has been held +at different times. No such appearances exist in the water-worn pebbles: +their blunt surfaces, smoothed and rounded uniformly by the action of +the water in which they have been rolled or tossed about, present +everywhere the same aspect.</p> + +<p>The correlation between these different loose materials and the position +in which they are found helps us also to detect their origin. The loose +materials bearing glacier-marks are always found resting upon surfaces +which have been worn, abraded, and engraved in the same manner, while +the water-worn pebbles are everywhere found resting upon rocks the +abrasion of which may be traced to water. It is true that in some +localities, as, for instance, in the gravel-pit of Mount Auburn, near +Cambridge, large masses of glacier-worn pebbles alternate with +beach-shingle; but it is easy to show that there was here a glacier +advancing into the sea, crowding its front moraine and the materials +carried under it over and into the shingle washed up by the waves upon +the beach. Not infrequently, also, river-pebbles may be found among +glacial materials. This is especially the case where, after the +disappearance of large glaciers, rivers have occupied their beds. +Examples of this kind may be seen in all the valleys of the Alps.</p> + +<p>But, besides the special character of the individual fragments, the true +origin of any accumulation of glacier-<i>débris</i>, commonly called drift, +may be detected by the total absence of stratification, so essential a +feature in all water-deposits. This absence of stratification throughout +its mass is, after all, the great and important characteristic of the +drift; and though I have alluded to it before, I reiterate it here, as +that which distinguishes it from all like accumulations under water. I +may be pardoned for dwelling upon this point, because the great +controversy among geologists respecting the nature and origin of the +sheet of loose materials scattered over a great part of the globe turns +upon it. The <i>débris</i> of which the drift consists are thrown together +pell-mell, without any arrangement according to size or weight, larger +and smaller fragments being mixed so indiscriminately that the heaviest +materials may be on the very summit of the mass, and the lightest at the +bottom in immediate contact with the underlying rock, or the larger +pieces may stand at any level in the mass of finer ones. Impalpable +powder, coarse sand, rounded, polished, and scratched fragments of every +size are mixed together in a homogeneous paste, in which the larger +materials are imbedded, to use a homely, but expressive comparison, like +raisins and currants in a pudding. The adhesive paste holding all these +fragments together is, no doubt, the result of the friction to which the +whole was subjected under the glacier, and which has worked some of the +softer materials into a kind of cement.</p> + +<p>The mode of aggregation of water-worn materials is very different. +Examine the shingle along our beaches: we find it so distributed as to +show that the fading tide-wave has carried the lighter materials farther +than the heavier ones, and the successive deposits exhibit an imperfect +cross-stratification resulting from changes in the height of the tide +and the direction of the wind. Moreover, in any materials collected +under water we find the heavier ones at the bottom, the lighter on the +top. It is true that large angular boulders may occasionally be found +resting upon beach-shingle, but their presence in such a connection is +easily explained. They may have been dropped there by floating icebergs, +or have fallen from crumbling drift-cliffs.</p> + +<p>I should add, in speaking of drift-materials, that, while we find the +large angular boulders resting above them, we occasionally find boulders +of unusual size mingled with them; but, when this is the case, such +massive fragments are more or less rounded, polished, and marked in the +same way as the smaller pebbles, or as the surfaces over which the +glacier has passed. This is important to remember, because, when we +examine the drift in countries where the ice, during the glacier-period, +overtopped nearly all the mountains, so that few fragments could fall +from them upon its surface, we find scarcely any angular boulders, while +the drift is interspersed with larger fragments of this character, +carried under the ice, instead of on its back. Another distinction +between water-worn deposits and drift consists in the fact that the +former are washed clean, while the latter always retains the mud +gathered during its journey and spread throughout its mass.</p> + +<p>In summing up the glacial evidences, I must not omit the moraines, +though I have described them so fully in a previous article that I need +not do more than allude to them here; but any argument for the glacial +theory which did not include these characteristic walls erected by +glaciers would be most imperfect. We need hardly discuss the theory of +currents with reference to the formation of terminal moraines, extending +across the valleys from side to side. Any current powerful enough to +bring the boulders and <i>débris</i> of all sorts of which these walls are +composed to the places where they are found would certainly not build +them up with such regularity, but would sweep them away or scatter them +along the bottom of the valley. That this is actually the case is seen +in the lower course of the valley of the Rhone, where there are no +transverse moraines, while they are frequent and undisturbed in the +upper part of the valley. This is no doubt owing to the fact, that, when +the main glacier had already retreated considerably up the valley, the +lateral glaciers from the chains of the Combin and the Diablerets still +reached the valley of the Rhone at a lower point, and barred the outlet +of the waters from the glaciers above. A lake was thus formed, which, +when the lower glaciers retreated up the lateral valleys, swept away all +the lower transverse moraines, and formed the flat bottom of Martigny. +In this case, the moraines were totally obliterated; but there are many +other instances in which the materials have been only broken up and +scattered over a wider surface by currents. In such remodelled moraines, +the glacier-mud has, of course, been more or less washed away. We have +here a blending of the action of water with that of the glacier; and, +indeed, how could it be otherwise, when the colossal glaciers of past +ages gradually disappeared or retreated to the mountain-heights? The +wasting ice must have occasioned immense freshets, the action of which +we shall trace hereafter, when examining the formation of our +drift-ponds, of our river-beds and estuaries, as well as the +river-terraces standing far above the present water-level.</p> + +<p>And now, if it be asked how much of this evidence for the former +existence of glaciers is to be found in Great Britain, I answer, that +there is not a valley in Switzerland where all these traces are found in +greater perfection than in the valleys of the Scotch Highlands, or of +the mountains of Ireland and Wales, or of the lake-region in England. +Not a link is wanting to the chain. Polished surfaces, traversed by +striæ, grooves, and furrows, with a sheet of drift resting immediately +upon them, extend throughout the realm,—the <i>roches moutonnées</i> +raise their rounded backs from the ground there as in +Switzerland,—transverse moraines bar their valleys and lateral ones +border them, and the boulders from the hill-sides are scattered over the +plains as thickly as between the Alps and the Jura, and are here and +there perched upon the summits of isolated hills. This being the case, +let us examine a little more closely the local phenomena connected with +the ancient extension of glaciers in this region, and especially the +parallel roads of Glen Roy.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/image736.jpg" width="350" height="313" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Among the Grampian Hills, a little to the northeast of Ben Nevis, lies +the valley of Glen Roy, a winding valley trending in a northeasterly +direction, and some ten miles in length. Across the mouth of this +valley, at right angles with it, runs the valley of Glen Spean, trending +from east to west, Glen Roy thus opening directly at its southern +extremity into Glen Spean. Around the walls of the Glen Roy valley run +three terraces, one above the other, at different heights, like so many +roads artificially cut in the sides of the valley, and indeed they go by +the name of the "parallel roads." These three terraces, though in a less +perfect state of preservation, are repeated for a short distance at +exactly the same levels on the southern wall of the valley of Glen +Spean, just opposite the opening of the Glen Roy valley; that is, they +make the whole circuit of Glen Roy, stop abruptly, on both sides, at its +southern extremity, and reappear again on the opposite wall of Glen +Spean. I should add, however, that all three do not come to this sudden +termination; for the lowest of these terraces turns eastward into the +valley of Glen Spean, following the whole curve of the eastern half of +the valley, while, of the two upper terraces, there is no trace +whatever, nor is there any indication that either of the three ever +existed in the western half of the valley. When I first visited the +region, these phenomena had already been the subject of earnest +discussion among English geologists. The commonly accepted explanation +of the facts was that these terraces marked ancient sea-levels at a time +when the ocean penetrated much farther into the interior, and Glen Roy +and the adjoining valleys were as many fiords or estuaries. And though +the present elevation of the locality made such an interpretation +improbable at first sight, the first or highest of the terraces being +eleven hundred and forty-four feet above the present sea-level, the +second eighty-two feet below the first, and the third and lowest two +hundred and twelve feet below the second, or eight hundred odd feet +above the level of the sea, it was thought that the oscillations of the +land, its alternate subsidences and upheavals, proved by the modern +results of geology to have been so great and so frequent, might account +even for so remarkable a change. There are, however, other objections to +this theory not so easily explained away. There are no traces of organic +life upon these terraces. If they were ancient sea-beaches, we should +expect to find upon them the remains of marine animals, shells, +crustacea, and the like. All the explanations given to lessen the +significance of this absence of organic remains are futile. Again, why +should the lower terrace alone be continued into the eastern end of the +valley of Glen Spean, while there are no terraces at all in its western +part, since both must have been as fully open to the sea as Glen Roy +valley itself? This seemed the more inexplicable since all the terraces +exist on the valley-wall opposite the outlet of Glen Roy, showing that +this sheet of water, wherever it came from, filled the valley itself and +the space between it and the southern wall of Glen Spean, but failed to +spread, on either side of that space, into the eastern and western +extension of Glen Spean. It is evident, that, at the time the water +filled Glen Roy, some obstruction blocked the valley of Glen Spean, both +to the east and west, leaving, however, that space in the centre free +into which Glen Roy opens, while, by the time the water had sunk to the +level of the lowest terrace, one of these barriers, that to the east, +must have been removed, for the lowest terrace, as I have said, is +continuous throughout the eastern part of Glen Spean.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p> + +<p>Prepossessed as I was with the idea of glacial agency in times anterior +to ours, these phenomena appeared to me under a new aspect. I found the +bottom of Glen Spean so worn by glacial action as to leave no doubt in +my mind that it must have been the bed of a great glacier, and Dr. +Buckland fully concurred with me in this impression. Indeed, the face of +the country throughout that region presents not only the glacier-marks +in great perfection, but other evidences of the ancient presence of +glaciers. There are moraines at the lower end of Glen Spean, remodelled, +it is true, by the action of currents, but still retaining enough of +their ancient character to be easily recognized; and some of the finest +examples of the <i>roches moutonnées</i> I have seen in Scotland are to be +found at the entrance of the valley of Loch Treig, a lateral valley +opening into Glen Spean on its southern side, and, as we shall see +hereafter, intimately connected with the history of the parallel roads +of Glen Roy. These <i>roches moutonnées</i> may very fairly be compared with +those of the Grimsel, and exhibit all the characteristic features of the +Alpine ones. One of them, lying on the western side of the valley where +it opens into Glen Spean, is crossed by a trap-dike. The general surface +of the hill, consisting of rather soft mica, has been slightly worn down +by atmospheric agencies, so that the dike stands out some three-quarters +of an inch above it. On the dike, however, the glacier-marks extend for +its whole length in great perfection, while they have entirely +disappeared from the surrounding surfaces, so as to leave the dike thus +standing out in full relief. This is an instructive case, showing how +little disintegration has gone on since the drift-period. All the +currents that have swept over it, all the rains that have beaten upon +it, have not worn away one inch from the original surface of the hill. I +have observed many other <i>roches moutonnées</i> in Scotland, especially +about the neighborhood of Loch Awe, Loch Fyne, and Loch Etive. In fact, +they may be found in almost all the glens of Scotland, in the +lake-region of England, and in the valleys of Wales and Ireland.</p> + +<p>Following the glacial indications wherever we could find them in the +country about Glen Roy, it became evident to me that the whole western +range of the Grampian Hills had once been a great centre of glaciers, +that they had come down toward Glen Spean through all the valleys on the +mountain-slopes to the north and south of it, so that this valley had +become, as it were, the great drainage-bed for the masses of ice thus +poured into it laterally, and moving down the valley from east to west +as one immense glacier. It is natural to suppose, that, at the +breaking-up of the great sheet of ice which, if my view of the case is +correct, must have covered the whole country at this time, the ice would +yield more readily in a valley like that of Glen Roy, lying open to the +south and receiving the full force of the sun, than in those on the +opposite side of Glen Spean, opening to the north. At all events, it is +evident that at some time posterior to this universal glacial period, +when the ice began to retreat, Glen Roy became the basin of a glacial +lake such as we now find in the Alps of Switzerland, where occasionally +a closed valley becomes a trough, as it were, into which the water from +the surrounding hills is drained. In such a lake no animals are found, +such as exist in any other sheet of fresh water, and this would account +for the absence of any organic remains on the terraces of Glen Roy. But +at first sight it seemed that this theory was open in one respect to the +same objection as the other. What prevented this sheet of water from +spreading east and west in Glen Spean? If it not only filled Glen Roy, +but extended to the southern side of Glen Spean immediately opposite +the opening of Glen Roy, what prevented it from filling the whole of +that valley also? In endeavoring to answer this question, I found the +solution of the mystery.</p> + +<p>The bed of Glen Spean, through its whole extent from east to west, is +marked, as I have said, by glacial action, in rectilinear scratches and +furrows. This westward track of the main glacier is crossed transversely +near the centre of the valley by two other glacier-tracks cutting it at +right angles. Upon tracing these cross-tracks carefully, I became +satisfied, that, after the surrounding ice had begun to yield, after the +masses of ice which descended from the northern and southern slopes of +the mountains into Glen Spean had begun to retreat, and to form local +limited glaciers, two of those lateral glaciers, one coming down from +Ben Nevis on the southwest, the other from Loch Treig on the southeast, +extended farther than the others and stretched across Glen Spean.<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a> +These two glaciers for a long time formed barriers across the western +and eastern extension of this valley, damming back the waters which +filled Glen Roy and the central part of Glen Spean.</p> + +<p>Evidently the glacier descending from Loch Treig was the first to yield, +for, by the time the Glen Roy lake had sunk to the level of the lowest +terrace, the entrance to the eastern extension of the valley must have +been free, otherwise the water could not have spread throughout that +basin as we find it did; but it would seem that by the time the western +barrier, or the glacier from Ben Nevis, was removed, the sheet of water +was too far reduced to have left permanent marks of its outflow into the +Great Glen, except by disturbing and remodelling the large moraines of +the older Glen Spean glacier. There are faint indications of other +terraces in Glen Roy, even at a higher level than the uppermost parallel +road, owing their origin probably to the short duration of a higher +level of the glacier-lake, when the great general glacier had not yet +been lowered to a more permanent level determined by a limited +circumscription within the walls of the valleys. There are other +terraces in neighboring valleys at still different levels,—in Glen +Gloy, for instance, where the one horizontal road was no doubt formed in +consequence of the damming of the valley by a glacier from Loch Arkeig. +Mr. Darwin has seen another in Glen Kinfillen, which I would explain by +the presence of a glacier in the Great Glen, the marks of which are +particularly distinct about the eastern end of Glen Garry.</p> + +<p>The evidence of the ancient presence of glaciers is no less striking in +other parts of the Scotch Highlands. Between the southeastern range of +the Grampian Hills, in Forfarshire and Perthshire, and the opposite +ridge of Sidlaw Hills, stretches the broad valley of Strathmore. At the +time when Glen Spean received the masses of ice from the slopes of the +western Grampian range, the glaciers descended from the valleys on the +southern slope of the southeastern range and from those on the northern +slope of Sidlaw Hills into the capacious bed of the valley which divides +them. The glacial phenomena of this region present a striking +resemblance in their general relations to those of the Alps and the +Jura. The Grampian range on the northern side of Strathmore valley +occupies the same position in reference to that of the Sidlaw Hills +opposite, as does the range of the Alps to that of the Jura, while the +intervening valley may be compared to the plain of Switzerland. As from +the Bernese Oberland and from the valleys of the Reuss and Limmath +gigantic glaciers came down and stretched across the plain of +Switzerland to the Jura, scattering their erratic boulders over its +summit and upon its slopes at the time of their greater extension, and, +as they withdrew into the higher Alpine valleys, leaving them along +their retreating track at the foot of the Jura and over the whole plain, +so did the glaciers from Glen Prossen and parallel valleys on the +Grampian Mountains extend across the valley of Strathmore, dropping +their boulders not only on the slopes and along the base of the Sidlaw +Hills, but scattering them in their retreat throughout the valley, until +they were themselves reduced to isolated glaciers in the higher valleys. +At the same time other glaciers came down from the heights of +Schihallion on the west, and, descending through the valley of the Tay, +joined the great masses of ice in the valley of Strathmore, thus +combining with the eastern ice-field, just as the glacier from Mont +Blanc and the valley of the Rhone formerly combined in the western part +of Switzerland with those of the Bernese Oberland. The relations are +identical, though the geographical position is reversed,—the higher +range, or the Grampian Hills, lying to the north in Scotland, and the +lower one, or the Sidlaw Hills, to the south, while in Switzerland, on +the contrary, the higher range lies to the south and the lower to the +north. I have alluded especially to Glen Prossen because the glacial +marks in that valley are remarkably distinct, the whole bed of the +valley being scratched, polished, and furrowed by the great rasp which +has moved over it, while the concentric moraines at its lower extremity +are very striking. But these signs, so perfectly preserved in Glen +Prossen, recur with greater or less intensity in all the corresponding +valleys, leaving no doubt that the same phenomena existed over the whole +region.</p> + +<p>Among the localities of Scotland where the indications of glacial action +are most marked is the region about Stirling. Near Stirling Castle the +polished surfaces of the rocks with their distinct grooves and scratches +show us the path followed by the ice as it moved down in a northeasterly +direction toward the Frith of Forth from the mountains on the northwest. +To the west of Edinburgh, also, there is a broad glacier-track, showing +that here also the ice was ploughing its way eastward to find an outlet +on the shore.</p> + +<p>The western slope of the great Scotch range is no less remarkable for +its glacier-traces. The heads of Loch Long, Loch Fyne, Loch Awe, and +Loch Leven everywhere show upon their margins the most distinct glacial +polish and furrows, while from the trend of these marks and the +distribution of the moraines, especially about Ben Cruachan, it is +obvious that in this part of the country the glaciers moved westward and +southward. About Aberdeen, on the contrary, they moved eastward, while +in the vicinity of Elgin they advanced toward the north.</p> + +<p>It thus appears that the whole range of the Grampians formed a great +centre for the distribution of glaciers, and that a colossal ice-field +spread itself over the whole country, extending in every direction +toward the lower lands and the sea-shore. As the glaciers which now +descend through all the valleys of the Alps, along their northern as +well as their southern slopes, and in their eastern as well as their +western prolongation, though limited, in our days, within the +valley-walls, nevertheless once covered the plain of Switzerland and +that of Northern Italy, so did the ice-fields of the Grampians during +the greatest extension of the Scotch glaciers spread over the whole +country. They also were, in course of time, reduced to local glaciers, +circumscribed within the higher valleys of the more mountainous parts of +the country, until they totally disappeared, as those of Switzerland +would also have done, had it not been for the greater elevation of that +country above the level of the sea. Scotland nowhere rises above the +present level of perpetual snow, while in Switzerland the whole Alpine +range has an altitude favorable to the preservation of glaciers. In the +range of the Jura, however, which had at one time its local glaciers +also, but which nowhere now rises above the line of perpetual snow, they +have disappeared as completely as in the Grampian Hills.</p> + +<p>It would lead me too far, were I to give here a special account of all +the investigations I made in 1840 upon the distribution of glaciers in +Great Britain. I will therefore only point out a few of the more +distinct areas of distribution. The region surrounding Ben Wyvis formed +such a centre of dispersion from which glaciers radiated, and we have +another in the Pentland Hills about Edinburgh. In Northumberland, the +Cheviot Hills present a glacial centre of the same kind, and in the +Westmoreland Hills we have still another. In the last-named locality, +the glacial tracks can be followed in various directions, some of them +descending toward the northwest from the heights of Helvellyn, others +moving southward toward Ambleside. In Wales the same kind of glacial +distribution has been observed; but, as Professor Ramsay has treated +this subject in full, I would refer my readers to his masterly work for +a further account of the ancient Welch glaciers. In Ireland I had also +opportunities of making extensive local investigations of glacial +action. I observed the centres of distribution in the neighborhood of +Belfast, in the County of Wicklow, and in Cavan.</p> + +<p>But nowhere are these phenomena more striking than in Fermanagh County +about the neighborhood of Enniskillen, and more especially in the +immediate vicinity of Florence Court, the seat of the Earl of +Enniskillen. On the northern slope of Ben Calcagh are five valleys lying +parallel with each other and opening into the valley of Loch Nilly, +which runs from east to west at the base of the mountain. A road now +passes through this valley, and, where it crosses the mouth of either of +the five valleys rising towards the mountain-slope, it cuts alternately +through the two horns of a crescent-shaped wall which bars the lower end +of every one of them. These crescent-shaped mounds are so many terminal +moraines, built up by the five glaciers formerly descending through +these lateral valleys into the valley of Loch Nilly. They bore the same +relation to each other as the glaciers de Tour and d'Argentière, the +Glacier des Bois with the Mer de Glace, the Glacier des Bossons and the +Glacier de Taconet, now bear to each other in the valley of Chamouni; +and were it not for the smaller dimensions of the whole, any one +familiar with the tracks of ancient glaciers might easily fancy himself +crossing the ancient moraines at the foot of the northern slope of the +range of Mont Blanc, through which the Arve has cut its channel, the +valley of Chamouni standing in the same relation to Mont Blanc as the +valley of Loch Nilly does to Ben Calcagh.</p> + +<p>I have dwelt thus at length on the glaciers of Great Britain because +they have been the subject of my personal investigations. But the Scotch +Highlands and the mountains of Wales and Ireland are but a few of the +many centres of glacial distribution in Europe. From the Scandinavian +Alps glaciers descended also to the shores of the Northern Ocean and the +Baltic Sea. There is not a fiord of the Norway shore that does not bear +upon its sides the tracks of the great masses of ice which once forced +their way through it, and thus found an outlet into the sea, as in +Scotland. Indeed, under the water, as far as it is possible to follow +them through the transparent medium, I have noticed in Great Britain and +in the United States the same traces of glacial action as higher up, so +that these ancient glaciers must have extended not only to the +sea-shore, but into the ocean, as they do now in Greenland. Nor is this +all. Scandinavian boulders, scattered upon English soil and over the +plains of Northern Germany, tell us that not only the Baltic Sea, but +the German Ocean also, was bridged across by ice, on which these masses +of rock were transported. In short, over the whole of Northern Europe, +from the Arctic Ocean to the northern borders of its southern +promontories, we find all the usual indications of glacial action, +showing that a continuous sheet of ice once spread over nearly the whole +continent, while from all the mountain-ranges descended those more +limited glacial tracks terminating frequently in transverse moraines +across the valleys, showing, that, as the general ice-sheet broke up and +contracted into local glaciers, every cluster or chain of hills became a +centre of glacial dispersion, such as the Alps are now, such as the +Jura, the Highlands of Scotland, the mountains of Wales and Ireland, the +Alps of Scandinavia, the Hartz, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and many +others have been in ancient times.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>In the next article we shall consider the glacial phenomena as they +exist in America.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> See January No., p. 61.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Having enumerated the characteristic features of the +glacial phenomena in the preceding pages, I throw into this note some +explanation which may render my views of the parallel roads more +intelligible, not to interrupt again the exposition with details. It +would be desirable, however, that the reader should first make himself +thoroughly familiar with the localities concerned, before proceeding any +farther. I would therefore state here, that, in the wood-cut opposite, +G. R. indicates the valley of Glen Roy, with the three parallel roads +marked 1, 2, 3. Glen Spean is designated by G. S., and the river flowing +at its bottom by S. Loch Laggan, out of which the River Spean rises, is +marked L. G. indicates Glen Gloy, a little valley to the northwest of +Glen Roy, with a single terrace. Loch Treig is designated by T., Loch +Lochy by L. O., Loch Arkeig by A., and Moeldhu Hill by M., while E. +indicates Loch Eil. The Great Glen of Scotland, through which the +Caledonian Canal runs, extends in the direction of L. O. and E. The +position of Ben Nevis is designated by N. The dotted area between N. and +M. marks the place occupied by the great glacier of Ben Nevis, when it +extended as far as Moeldhu; while the close continuous lines in front of +Loch Treig indicate the direction of the glacial scratches left across +Glen Spean by the glacier of Loch Treig, when it extended as far as the +eastern termination of the two upper terraces. It ought to be +remembered, in this connection, that the bottom of the valley of the +Spean, as well as that of Glen Roy, is occupied by loose materials, +partly drift, that is, materials acted upon by glaciers, and partly +decomposed fragments of rocks brought down by the torrents, greatly +impeding the observation of the polished surfaces. The river-bed is cut +through this deposit, and here and there through the underlying rock. +Besides the parallel roads, there are also peculiar accumulations of +loose materials in Glen Roy and Glen Spean, more particularly connected +with the lowest terrace, which Mr. Darwin and Professor Jamieson have +shown to be little deltas formed during the existence of the lake of +Glen Roy at the bottom of the gullies intersecting the shelves of the +upper roads. The outlet for the water at the period during which the +second terrace was formed, not known when I visited Glen Roy, has been +discovered by Mr. Milne-Holme, and also observed by Professor Jamieson. +During the formation of the upper terrace, the waters escaped through +the westernmost tributary of the River Spey, in the direction of the +northeast corner of the wood-cut, and during that of the lowest terrace, +at the eastern end of Loch Laggan, also through the valley of the Spey. +The state of preservation of the parallel roads is such as to prove that +no disturbance of any importance can have taken place in the country +since they were formed. Far from believing, therefore, that these +remarkable shelves are ancient sea-beaches, I am prepared to maintain, +that, had the area occupied by them been submerged only for a few days, +under an ocean rising and falling for several feet with every tide, no +vestige would have been left of their former existence.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> The wood-cut on p. 730 is a reproduction of the little map +accompanying a paper of mine upon "The Glacial Theory and its Recent +Progress," printed in the "Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal" for +October, 1842. I might have greatly improved the topography, and +represented more accurately the details of the phenomenon, by availing +myself of the much larger and very minute map recently published by +Professor Thomas F. Jamieson, of Aberdeen; but I thought it advisable to +leave my first sketch as I presented it twenty-two years ago, in order +to show that Sir Charles Lyell is mistaken in ascribing (see "Antiquity +of Man," pp. 260, 261) the discovery of the glacier of Loch Treig to +Professor Jamieson. A comparison of his statements with mine will show +that the solution of the problem offered by him is identical with that +proposed by me, as he himself candidly admits ("Quarterly Journal of the +Geological Society" for August, 1863, p. 239). I have only one fault to +find with his observations, and, as I have never revisited the locality +since, this remark may satisfy him that my examination of its features +was not so hurried as he supposes. Professor Jamieson confounds the +effects of two distinct glaciers moving in different valleys as the +action of one and the same glacier. In my paper, it is true, I made no +allusion to the great glacier of Glen Spean, the existence of which I +had recognized along the river from Loch Laggan nearly to the Caledonian +Canal. I publish my observations upon this great central glacier for the +first time in the present article, having omitted them in my +contributions upon this subject to the scientific periodicals of the day +simply because I thought best not to complicate my exposition of the +facts concerning the parallel roads by considerations foreign to their +origin, convinced as I was, from the manner in which the glacial theory +was then received, that they would not be understood, and still less +admitted. But now that all the geologists of Great Britain seem to have +given their adhesion to it, I may be permitted to state that I already +knew then, what Professor Jamieson has overlooked in his latest paper, +that a separate glacier had occupied the valley of the Spean <i>prior</i> to +the formation of the parallel roads, and that at that time the glacier +of Loch Treig was only a lateral tributary of the same, just as the +glacier of the Thierberg is a tributary of the glacier of the Aar. It +was not until the Glen Spean glacier had retreated to the hills east of +Loch Laggan that the glacier of Loch Treig could form a barrier across +Glen Spean, and thus dam the waters in Glen Roy which produced the +parallel roads. The marks left by the great Glen Spean glacier in the +valley are mistaken by Professor Jamieson for indications, that, in its +greatest extension, the glacier of Loch Treig not only advanced across +Glen Spean, but divided into two branches, one moving westward down Glen +Spean, the other eastward up Glen Spean, as far as Loch Laggan. Any one +sufficiently familiar with existing glaciers to compare their action +with the phenomena referred to above will at once see the impossibility +of such a course for any glacier coming down from Loch Treig. At the +time the Grampians had become a separate centre of glacial action a +great glacier must have moved down, towards the Caledonian Canal, +through Glen Spean, receiving as tributaries lateral glaciers not only +from Loch Treig and Glen Roy, but also from all the other minor lateral +valleys emptying into Glen Spean, the largest of which must have come +from the range of Ben Nevis,—just as the great glacier of the valley of +the Rhone once received as tributaries all the glaciers coming down into +that valley from the southern slope of the Bernese Oberland, and from +the northern slope of the Valesian Alps, and at one time also from the +eastern slopes of the range of Mont Blanc. And when the large glacier +occupying the lower, and therefore warmer, level gradually disappeared +and retreated far away to levels where it could maintain itself against +the effect of a returning milder climate, the opening spring of our era, +as we may call it, the lateral glaciers, arising from the nearer high +grounds, could extend across the valleys, but not before.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="UNDER_THE_CLIFF" id="UNDER_THE_CLIFF"></a>UNDER THE CLIFF.</h2> + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Still ailing, Wind? Wilt be appeased or no?<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Which needs the other's office, thou or I?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dost want to be disburthened of a woe,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And can, in truth, my voice untie<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Its links, and let it go?<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Art thou a dumb, wronged thing that would be righted,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Intrusting thus thy cause to me? Forbear!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No tongue can mend such pleadings; faith, requited<br /></span> +<span class="i2">With falsehood,—love, at last aware<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of scorn,—hopes, early blighted,—<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"We have them; but I know not any tone<br /></span> +<span class="i2">So fit as thine to falter forth a sorrow:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dost think men would go mad without a moan,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">If they knew any way to borrow<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A pathos like thy own?<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Which sigh wouldst mock, of all the sighs? The one<br /></span> +<span class="i2">So long escaping from lips starved and blue,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That lasts while on her pallet-bed the nun<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Stretches her length; her foot comes through<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The straw she shivers on,—<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"You had not thought she was so tall; and spent,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Her shrunk lids open; her lean fingers shut<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Close, close; their sharp and livid nails indent<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The clammy palm; then all is mute:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That way, the spirit went.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Or wouldst thou rather that I understand<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Thy will to help me?—like the dog I found<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Once, pacing sad this solitary strand,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Who would not take my food, poor hound,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But whined and licked my hand."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"> * * * *<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">All this, and more, comes from some young man's pride<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Of power to see, in failure and mistake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Relinquishment, disgrace, on every side,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Merely examples for his sake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Helps to his path untried:<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Instances he must—simply recognize?<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Oh, more than so!—must, with a learner's zeal,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Make doubly prominent, twice emphasize,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">By added touches that reveal<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The god in babe's disguise.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Oh, he knows what defeat means, and the rest,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Himself the undefeated that shall be!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Failure, disgrace, he flings them you to test,—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">His triumph in eternity<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Too plainly manifest!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Whence judge if he learn forthwith what the wind<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Means in its moaning,—by the happy, prompt,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Instinctive way of youth, I mean,—for kind<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Calm years, exacting their accompt<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of pain, mature the mind:<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">And some midsummer morning, at the lull<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Just about daybreak, as he looks across<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A sparkling foreign country, wonderful<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To the sea's edge for gloom and gloss<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Next minute must annul,—<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Then, when the wind begins among the vines,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">So low, so low, what shall it mean but this?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">"Here is the change beginning, here the lines<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Circumscribe beauty, set to bliss<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The limit time assigns."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Nothing can be as it has been before;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Better, so call it, only not the same.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To draw one beauty into our hearts' core,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And keep it changeless! such our claim;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So answered,—Never more!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Simple? Why, this is the old woe o' the world,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Tune to whose rise and fall we live and die.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Rise through it, then! Rejoice that man is hurled<br /></span> +<span class="i2">From change to change unceasingly,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His soul's wings never furled!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">That's a new question; still remains the fact,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Nothing endures: the wind moans, saying so;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">We moan in acquiescence: there's life's pact,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Perhaps probation,—do <i>I</i> know?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">God does: endure His act!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Only, for man, how bitter not to grave<br /></span> +<span class="i2">On his soul's hands' palms one fair, good, wise thing<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Just as he grasped it! For himself, death's wave;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">While time first washes—ah, the sting!—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">O'er all he'd sink to save.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="SEVEN_WEEKS_IN_THE_GREAT_YO-SEMITE" id="SEVEN_WEEKS_IN_THE_GREAT_YO-SEMITE"></a>SEVEN WEEKS IN THE GREAT YO-SEMITE.</h2> + + +<p>It is as hard to leave San Francisco as to get there. To a traveller +paying his first visit it has the interest of a new planet. It ignores +the meteorological laws which govern the rest of the world. There is no +snow there. There are no summer showers. The tailor recognizes no +aphelion or perihelion in his custom: the thin woollen suit which his +patron had made in April is comfortably worn until April again. The only +change of stockings there is from wet to dry, or from soiled to clean. +Save that in so-called winter frequent rainfalls alternate with spotless +intervals of amber weather, and that <i>soi-disant</i> summer is one entire +amber mass, its unbroken divine days concrete in it, there is no +inequality on which to forbid the banns between May and December. In San +Francisco there is no work for the scene-shifter of Nature: the wealth +of that great dramatist, the year, resulting in the same manner as the +poverty of dabblers in private theatricals,—a single flat doing service +for the entire play. Thus, save for the purpose of notes-of-hand, the +Almanac of San Francisco might replace its mutable months and seasons +with one great kindly, constant, sumptuous All The Year Round.</p> + +<p>Out of this benignant sameness what glorious fruits are produced! Fruit +enough metaphorical: for the scientific man or artist who cannot make +hay while such a sun shines from April to November must be a slothful +laborer indeed. But fruit also literal: for what joy of vegetation is +lacking to the man who every month in the year can look through his +study-window on a green lawn, and have strawberries and cream for his +breakfast,—who can sit down to this royal fruit, and at the same time +to apricots, peaches, nectarines, blackberries, raspberries, melons, +figs both yellow and purple, early apples, and grapes of three kinds?</p> + +<p>Another delightful fact of San Francisco is the Occidental Hotel. Its +comfort is like that of a royal home. There is nothing inn-ish about it. +Remembering the chief hotels of many places, I am constrained to say +that I have never, even in New York, seen its equal for elegance of +appointment, attentiveness of servants, or excellence of <i>cuisine</i>. +Having come to this extreme of civilization from the extreme of +barbarism, we found that it actually needed an exertion to leap from the +lap of luxury, after a fortnight's pleasaunce, and take to the woods +again in flannel and corduroys.</p> + +<p>But far more seductive than the beautiful bay, the heavenly climate, the +paradisiacal fruits, and the royal hotel of San Francisco, were the old +friends whom we found, and the new ones we made there. With but one +exception, (and that an express-company, not a man,) we were received by +all our San-Francisco acquaintance in a kind and helpful manner, with a +welcome and a cheer as delightful to ourselves as it was honorable to +them. Need I say whose brotherly hands were among the very first +outstretched to us, in whose happy home we found our sweetest rest, by +whose radiant face and golden speech we were most lovingly detained +evening after evening and far into the night? A few days ago when we +read that dreadful message, "<i>Starr King is dead</i>," the lightning that +carried it seemed to end in our hearts. We withered under it; California +had lost its soul for us; at noon or in dreams that balmy land would +nevermore be the paradise it once was to us. The last hand that pressed +our own, when we sailed for the Isthmus on our way home, was the same +that had been first to give us our California welcome. Just before the +lines were cast off, Starr King stood at the door of our state-room, and +said,—</p> + +<p>"I could not bear to have you go away without one more good-bye. Here +are the <i>cartes-de-visite</i> I promised. They look hard-worked, but they +look like me. Good bye! God bless you! I hope to make a visit to the +East next summer, and then we will get together somewhere by the sea. +Good bye!"</p> + +<p>He went down the ladder. When the steamer glided off, his bright face +sent benedictions after us as far as we could see; and then, for the +last time on earth, that great, that good, that beloved man faded from +our sight,—but, oh! never from our hearts, either in the here or the +hereafter. "We shall see him, but not now." We shall be together with +him "in the summer, by the sea"; but that summer shall have other glory +than the sun to lighten it, and the sea shall be of crystal.</p> + +<p>King was to have joined us in our Yo-Semite trip. We little knew that we +were losing, for this world, our last opportunity of close daily +intercourse with his sweet spirit, though we were grievously +disappointed when he told us, on the eve of our setting out, that work +for the nation must detain him in San Francisco, after all.</p> + +<p>If report was true, we were going to the original site of the Garden of +Eden,—into a region which out-Bendemered Bendemere, out-valleyed the +valley of Rasselas, surpassed the Alps in its waterfalls, and the +Himmal'yeh in its precipices. As for the two former subjects of +comparison, we never met any tourist who could adjust the question from +his own experience; but the superiority of the Yo-Semite to the Alpine +cataracts was a matter put beyond doubt by repeated judgments, and a +couple of English officers who had explored the wildest Himmal'yeh +scenery told Starr King that there was no precipice in Asia to be +compared for height or grandeur with Tu-toch-anula and Tis-sa-ack.</p> + +<p>We were going into the vale whose giant domes and battlements had months +before thrown their photographic shadow through Watkins's camera across +the mysterious wide continent, causing exclamations of awe at Goupil's +window, and ecstasy in Dr. Holmes's study. At Goupil's counter and in +Starr King's drawing-room we had gazed on them by the hour already,—I, +let me confess it, half a Thomas-a-Didymus to Nature, unwilling to +believe the utmost true of her till I could put my finger in her very +prints. Now we were going to test her reported largess for ourselves.</p> + +<p>No Saratoga affair, this! A total lack of tall trunks, frills, and +curling-kids. Driven by the œstrum of a Yo-Semite pilgrimage, the +San-Francisco belle forsakes (the Western vernacular is "goes back on") +her back-hair, abandons her capillary "waterfalls" for those of the +Sierra, and, like John Phœnix's old lady who had her whole osseous +system removed by the patent tooth-puller, departs, leaving her +"skeleton" behind her. The bachelor who cares to see unhooped womanhood +once more before he dies should go to the Yo-Semite. The scene was three +or four times presented to us during our seven weeks' camp +there,—though the trip is one which might well cost a feeble woman her +life.</p> + +<p>Our male preparations were of the most pioneer description. One wintry +day since my return I was riding in a train on the New-York Central, +when an undaunted herdsman, returning Westward, flushed with the sale of +beeves, accosted me with the question,—"Friend, yeou've travelled +consid'able, and believe in the religion of Natur', don't ye?" "Why so?" +I responded. "<i>Them boots</i>," replied my new acquaintance, pointing at a +pair with high knee-caps, like those our party wore to the Yo-Semite. +Otherwise, we took the oldest clothes we had,—and it is not difficult +to find that variety in the trunk of a recent overland stager. We were +armed with Ballard rifles, shot-guns, and Colt's revolvers which had +come with us across the continent; our ammunition we got in San +Francisco, together with all such commissariat-luxuries as were worth +transportation: our necessaries we left to be purchased at that +jumping-off place of civilization, Mariposa, whence we were to start our +pack-mules into the wilderness. Let me recommend tourists like +ourselves to include in the former catalogue plenty of canned fruits, +sardines, and apple-butter,—in the latter, a jug of sirup for the +inevitable camp slapjacks. No woodsman, as will presently appear in our +narrative, can tell when a slapjack may be the last plank between him +and starvation; and to this plank how powerfully sirup enables him to +stick!</p> + +<p>The only portion of our outfit which would have pleased an exquisite +(and he must be rather of the Count-Devereux than the Foppington-Flutter +school) was our horseflesh. That greatest of luxuries, a really good +saddle-animal, is readily and reasonably attainable in California. +Everybody rides there; if you wish to create a sensation with your +horsemanship in the streets of San Francisco, you must ride ill, not +well: everybody does this last. Even since the horse-railroad has begun +to clutter Montgomery Street (the San-Franciscan Boulevards) with its +cars, it is a daily matter to see capitalists and statesmen charging +through that thoroughfare on a gallop, which, if repeated in Broadway by +Henry G. Stebbins, would cost him his reputation on 'Change and his seat +in the next Congress. The nation of beggars-on-horseback which first +colonized California has left behind it many traditions unworthy of +conservation, and multitudinous fleas not at all traditional, but even +less keepworthy; but all honor be to the Spaniards, Greasers, and +Mixed-Breeds for having rooted the noble idea of horsemanship so firmly +in the country that even street-railroads cannot uproot it, and that +Americans who never sat even so little as an Atlantic-State's pony, on +coming here presently take to the saddle with all their hearts. In most +of the smaller Californian towns, a very serviceable half- or +quarter-breed saddle-horse is to be had for forty dollars,—the "breed" +portion of his blood being drawn from an Eastern stallion, the remaining +fraction being native or Mustang stock. This animal, if need be, will +live on road-side croppings nearly as well as a mule,—travel all day +long on an easy "lope," never offering to stop till fatigue makes him +fall,—and, if you let him, will take you through <i>chaparrals</i>, and up +and down precipices at whose bare suggestion an Eastern horse would +break his legs. Our party, seeking rather more ambitious mounts, +supplied itself, after a tour through the San-Francisco stables, with +saddle-animals at an average of seventy dollars apiece. This, payable in +gold, then amounted to one hundred dollars in notes; but the New-York +market could not have furnished us with such horses for one hundred and +fifty dollars.</p> + +<p>It may seem as if, like most cavalcades, we should never get started, +but I must linger a moment to do justice to our accoutrements. If there +be a more perfect saddle than the Californian, I would ride bare-back a +good way to get it. Anything more unlike the slippery little pad on +which we of the East amble about parks and suburban roads cannot be +imagined. It is not for a day, but for all time, and for those who spend +nearly the latter in it. Its wooden skeleton is as scientifically fitted +to the rider's form as an old "<i>incroyable's</i>" pair of pantaloons. There +is no such thing as getting tired in or of it. Rising to the lower +lumbar vertebrae behind, and in front terminating gracefully in a +broad-topped pommel, it enables one to lean back in descending, forward +in climbing, the great ridges on the path of California travel,—thus +affording capital relief both to one's self and one's horse, and +bringing in both from a fifty-miles' march comparatively unjaded.</p> + +<p>The stirrups of this saddle are broad hickory hoops, shaped nearly like +an Omega upside-down (U)[Transcriber's note: upside down Omega], left +unpolished so as to afford the most unshakable footing, covered with a +half-shoe of the stoutest leather, which renders it impossible for the +toe to slip through or the ankle to foul under any circumstances. +Attached to the straps from which these swing is a wide and neatly +ornamented stirrup-leather, which effectually prevents the grazing of +the rider's leg. The surcingle, or, <i>Californicè</i>, the <i>cinch</i>, is a +broad strip of hair-cloth with a padded ring at either end through which +you reeve and fasten with a half-hitch stout straps sewed to other rings +under the saddle-flaps. This arrangement is not only far securer than +our Eastern buckle, but enables you to graduate the tightness of your +girth much more delicately, and make a far snugger fit.</p> + +<p>The only particular in which I could not commend and adopt the native +practice was the Mexican bit. It is a dreadful instrument of torture, +putting immense leverage in the rider's hands, and enabling him at will +to tear the mouth of his horse to pieces; indeed, the horse on which it +is used is guided entirely by pressure on the opposite side of the neck +from that in which one seeks to turn him. Our Eastern way of drawing his +head around would so lift the bit as to drive him frantic. There are +very few horses of any breed, even the Mustang, that <i>never</i> stumble; +and as I prefer lifting my horse to letting him break his knees or neck, +I want a bridle I can pull upon without tearing his mouth. So, in spite +of its handsome appearance and the very manageable single white cord +into which its two reins are braided, I eschewed the Mexican head-gear, +and took the ordinary Eastern snaffle and curb. Immense spurs completed +our accoutrement,—whips being here unknown.</p> + +<p>I may as well make a word-map of our route before going farther. +Pilgrims to the Yo-Semite ship themselves and their horses from San +Francisco by steamer to Stockton. This town is on the San Joaquin, the +most northerly of a series of rivers fed directly from the Sierra Nevada +water-shed, and here through the middle portion of the State,—a series, +indeed, continued through much of the still lower Pacific coast to the +Isthmus of Nicaragua. The Sacramento drains quite a different region, +that of the broad plains between the Sierra and Coast ranges, occupying +the northern portion of the State,—resembling in its physical features, +much more than any of the Pacific streams beside, the large isolated +trunks which drain the east slope of the Alleghanies. The Colorado is +almost the only other large river created from many tributaries, which +debouches between the Columbia and the Isthmus,—and that rises east of +the mathematical axis of the Rocky Mountains. The Yo-Semite valley is +one of the cradles through which the short Sierra-draining rivers reach +the ocean; its threading stream is the Merced; and if on any good +United-States Survey-map you will please to follow that river back to +the mountains, when your finger-nail touches the Sierra it will be (or +would, were the maps somewhat correcter) in the Great Yo-Semite. You +will then see that our course led us across three streams, after leaving +the San Joaquin at Stockton <i>en route</i> for Mariposa,—the Stanislaus, +the Tuolomne, and the Main Merced. The distance from Stockton to +Mariposa is about one hundred miles, a small part of the way between +fenced ranches, a much greater part on wide, open, rolling plains, +somewhat like those of Nebraska, embraced between the two great ranges +of the State. Here and there you find an isolated herdsman or a small +settlement dropped down in this not unfruitful waste, and thrice you +come to a hybrid town, with a Spanish <i>plaza</i>, and Yankee notions sold +around it. We went the distance leisurely, consuming four days to +Mariposa, for we stopped here and there to sketch, "peep, and botanize"; +besides, we were dragging with us a Jersey wagon, bought second-hand in +Stockton, in which we carried our heavier outfit till we should get our +extra pack-beasts at Mariposa, and to which we had harnessed for their +first time an implacable white mule with an incapable white horse, to +neither of which each other's society or their own new trade was +congenial.</p> + +<p>I shall not linger here as we did there. To an ornithologist the whole +road is interesting,—especially to one making a specialty of owls. The +only game within easy reach is the dove and the California +ground-squirrel,—a big fellow, much like our Northeastern gray, +barring the former's subterranean habits. On the plains threaded by the +road the pasture is good, save in the extremest drought of summer, when +the great herds which usually feed at large on and between the +river-bottoms are driven to the rich green grass in the high valleys of +the Sierra,—or ought to be: many cattle died along the San Joaquin last +summer for want of this care. Occasionally the road winds through the +refreshing shadow of a grove of live-oaks, standing far from any water +on a sandy knoll. But the most magnificent trees of the oak family that +I ever beheld were growing on the banks of the Tuolomne River, where we +forded it at Roberts's Ferry. They were not merely in dimension superior +to the finest white-oaks of the East, but surpassed in beauty every +tradition of their genus. Their vast gnarled branches followed as +exquisite curves as belong to any elm on a New-England meadow, and wept +at the extremities like those of that else matchless tree,—possessing, +moreover, a sumptuous affluence of leafage, an arboreal <i>embonpoint</i>, +unknown to their graceful sister of our lowlands. Be sure that we +lingered long among their shadows with book and pencil, and look for a +desirable acquaintance with new Dryads when they grow into the life of +color from our artists' hands.</p> + +<p>At Princeton, a thriving suburb of Mariposa, we completed our cavalcade +of pack-animals, transferred our wagon-load to their backs, (the average +mule-pack weighs from two hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds,) +roped it there in the most approved <i>muletero</i>-fashion, and started into +the wilderness.</p> + +<p>Let us call the roll. Beside Bierstadt and the two other gentlemen who +with myself had formed the original overland-party, we numbered two +young artists of great merit now sojourning for a short time in +California, Williams, an old Roman, and Perry, an ancient Düsseldorf +friend,—also a highly scientific metallurgist and physicist generally, +Dr. John Hewston of San Francisco.</p> + +<p>To serve the party we secured a man and a boy. Regarding the former, +perhaps the more truthful assertion would be that he secured us; for, as +will shortly appear, though we bought his services, he sold us in +return. We picked him up in a San-Francisco employment-office, after +looking all over the city for a respectable groom and camp-cook, and +finding that in a scarce-labor country like California even fifty gold +dollars per month, with keep and expenses, were no sufficient bait for +the catch we wanted. He was a meagre, wiry fellow, with sandy hair, +serviceable-looking hands, and no end to self-recommendations; but then +it was impossible to ask after him at his "last place," that having been +General Johnston's camp during Buchanan's forcible-feeble occupation of +Utah. As he said he had been a teamster, and knew that soup-meat went +into cold water, we rushed blindly into an engagement with him, +marriage-service fashion, and took him for better or worse. The thing +which I think finally "fired our Northern hearts" and clinched the +matter was his assertion of nephewship to the Secession Governor Vance, +whose name he bore, combined with unswerving personal loyalty. Lest by +some future D'Israeli this be written down among the traditional +greennesses of learned men, let me say that he was our <i>pis-aller</i>,—we +finding ourselves within two hours of the Stockton boat, with nobody to +help pack our mules or care for them and the horses.</p> + +<p>The boy we obtained near Mariposa. He was an independent squire to the +man of whom we got the extra animals, and accompanied them as a sort of +trustee and <i>prochein amy</i> to an orphan family of mules. At fifteen +years and in jackets, he was one of the keenest speculators in fire-arms +I ever saw; could swap horses or play poker with anybody; and, take him +for all in all, in the Eastern States, at least, I shall never look upon +his like again.</p> + +<p>Thus manned, and leading, turn-about, four or five pack-beasts by as +many tow-lines, we struck up into the well-wooded Sierra foot-hills, +commencing our climb at the very outset from Mariposa. The whole +distance to the Valley was fifty miles. For twelve of these we pursued a +road in some degree practicable to carts, and leading to one of those +inevitable steam saw-mills with which a Yankee always cuts his first +swath into the tall grass of Barbarism. Passing the saw-mill in the very +act of astonishing the wilderness with a dinner-whistle, we struck a +trail and fell into single file. Thenceforward our way was almost a +continuous alternation of descent and climb over outlying ridges of the +Sierra. Our raw-recruited mules, and the elementary condition of our +intellects in the science of professional packing, spun out this portion +of our journey to three days,—though allowance is to be made for the +fact of our stopping at noon of the second day and not resuming our +trail till the morning of the third. This interim we spent in visiting +the Big Trees, which are situated four or five miles off the Yo-Semite +track.</p> + +<p>"Clark's," where tourists stop for this purpose, is just half-way +between Mariposa and the great Valley. "Clark" himself is one of the +best-informed men, one of the very best guides, I ever met in the +Californian or any other wilderness. He is a fine-looking, stalwart old +grizzly-hunter and miner of the '49 days, wears a noble full beard hued +like his favorite game, but no head-covering of any kind since he +recovered from a fever which left his head intolerant of even a slouch. +He lives among folk, near Mariposa, in the winter, and in summer +occupies a hermitage built by himself in one of the loveliest lofty +valleys of the Sierra. Here he gives travellers a surprise by the nicest +poached eggs and rashers of bacon, home-made bread and wild-strawberry +sweetmeats, which they will find in the State.</p> + +<p>Before reaching Clark's we had been astonished at the dimensions of the +ordinary pines and firs, our trail for miles at a time running through +forests where trees one hundred and fifty feet high were very common and +trees of two hundred feet by no means rare, while some of the very +largest must have considerably surpassed the latter measurement.</p> + +<p>But these were in their turn dwarfed by the Big Trees proper, as +thoroughly as themselves would have dwarfed a common Green-Mountain +forest. I find no one on this side the continent who believes the +literal truth which travellers tell about these marvellous giants. +People sometimes think they do, but that is only because they fail to +realize the proposition. They have no concrete idea of how the asserted +proportions look. Tell a carpenter, or any other man at home with the +look of dimensions, what you have seen in the Mariposa-County groves, +and his eye grows incredulous in a moment. I freely confess, that, +though I always thought I <i>had</i> believed travellers in their recitals on +this subject, when I saw the trees I found I had bargained to credit no +such story as that, and for a moment felt half-reproachful towards the +friends who had cheated me of my faith under a misapprehension.</p> + +<p>Take the dry statistics of the matter. Out of one hundred and thirty-two +trees which have been measured, not one underruns twenty-eight feet in +circumference; five range between thirty-two and thirty-six feet; +fifty-eight between forty and fifty feet; thirty-four between fifty and +sixty; fourteen between sixty and seventy; thirteen between seventy and +eighty; two between eighty and ninety; two between ninety and one +hundred; two are just one hundred; and one is one hundred and two. This +last, before the storms truncated it, had a height of four hundred feet. +I found a rough ladder laid against its trunk,—for it is +prostrate,—and climbed upon its side by that and steps cut in the bark. +I mounted the swell of the trunk to the butt and there made the +measurement which ascertained its diameter as thirty-four feet,—its +circumference one hundred and two feet <i>plus</i> a fraction. Of course the +thickness of its bark is various, but I cut off some of it to a foot in +depth and there was evidently plenty more below that.</p> + +<p>To make some rough attempt at a conception of what these figures amount +to, suppose the tree fallen at the gable of an ordinary two-story house. +You propose to cross by a plank laid from your roof to the upper side of +the tree. That plank would perceptibly slope <i>up</i> from your roof-peak. +Through another tree, lying prostrate also, and hollow from end to end, +our whole cavalcade charged at the full trot for a distance of one +hundred and fifty feet. The entire length of this tree before truncation +had been about three hundred and fifty feet. In the hollow bases of +trees still standing we easily sheltered ourselves and horses. We tried +throwing to the top of some of them with ludicrous unsuccess, and +finally came to the monarch of them all, a glorious monster not included +in the above table of dimensions, as most of those measured are still +living, and all have the bark upon them still, while <i>the</i> tree is to +some extent barked and charred. When it stood erect in its live +wrappings, it measured forty feet in diameter,—over one hundred and +twenty in circumference! Estimates, grounded on the well-known principle +of yearly cortical increase, indisputably throw back the birth of these +largest giants as far as 1200 <span class="smcap">B. C.</span> Thus their tender saplings +were running up just as the gates of Troy were tumbling down, and some +of them had fulfilled the lifetime of the late Hartford Charter-Oak when +Solomon called his master-masons to refreshment from the building of the +Temple. We cannot realize time-images as we can those of space by a +reference to dimensions within experience, so that the age of these +marvellous trees still remains to me an incomprehensible fact, though +with my mind's eye I continue to see how mountain-massy they look, and +how dwarfed is the man who leans against them. We lingered among them +half a day, the artists making color-studies of the most picturesque, +the rest of us <i>izing</i> away at something scientific,—Botany, +Entomology, or Statistics. In Geology and Mineralogy there is nothing to +do here or in the Valley,—the formation all being typical Sierra-Nevada +granite, with no specimens to keep or problems to solve. Of course our +artists neither made nor expected to make anything like a realizing +picture of the groves. The marvellous of size does not go into gilt +frames. You paint a Big Tree, and it only looks like a common tree in a +cramped coffin. To be sure, you can put a live figure against the butt +for comparison; but, unless you take a canvas of the size of Haydon's, +your picture is quite as likely to resemble Homunculus against an +average timber-tree as a large man against <i>Sequoia gigantea</i>. What our +artists did do was to get a capital transcript of the Big Trees' +color,—a beautifully bright cinnamon-brown, which gives peculiar gayety +to the forest, "making sunshine in the shady place"; also, their typical +figure, which is a very lofty, straight, and branchless trunk, crowned +almost at the summit by a mass of colossal gnarled boughs, slender plumy +fronds, delicate thin leaves, and smooth cones scarce larger than a +plover's egg. Perhaps the best idea of their figure may be obtained by +fancying an Italian stone-pine grown out of recollection.</p> + +<p>Between all the ridges we had hitherto crossed, silvery streams leaped +down intensely cold through the granite chasms,—all of them fed from +the snow-peaks, and charmingly picturesque,—most of them good +trout-brooks, had we possessed time to try a throw; and now, on leaving +Clark's, we crossed the largest of these, a fork of the Merced which +flows through his valley. For twelve miles farther a series of +tremendous climbs tasked us and our beasts to the utmost, but brought us +quite <i>apropos</i> at dinner-time to a lovely green meadow walled in on one +side by near snow-peaks. A small brook running through it speedily +furnished us with frogs enough for an <i>entrée</i>. Between two and three in +the afternoon we set out upon the last stage of our pilgrimage. We were +now nearly on a plane with the top of the mighty precipices which wall +the Yo-Semite Valley, and for two hours longer found the trail easy, +save where it crossed the bogs of summit-level springs.</p> + +<p>Immediately after leaving the meadow where we dined we plunged again +into the thick forest, where every now and then some splendid grouse or +the beautiful plume-crowned California quail went whirring away from +before our horses. Here and there a broad grizzly "sign" intersected our +trail. The tall purple deer-weed, a magnificent scarlet flower of name +unknown to me, and another blossom like the laburnum, endlessly varied +in its shades of roseate, blue, or the compromised tints, made the +hill-sides gorgeous beyond human gardening. All these were scentless; +but one other flower, much rarer, made fragrance enough for all. This +was the "Lady Washington," and much resembled a snowy day-lily with an +odor of tuberoses. Our dense leafy surrounding hid from us the fact of +our approach to the Valley's tremendous battlement, till our trail +turned at a sharp angle and we stood on "Inspiration Point."</p> + +<p>That name had appeared pedantic, but we found it only the spontaneous +expression of our own feelings on the spot. We did not so much seem to +be seeing from that crag of vision a new scene on the old familiar globe +as a new heaven and a new earth into which the creative spirit had just +been breathed. I hesitate now, as I did then, at the attempt to give my +vision utterance. Never were words so beggared for an abridged +translation of any Scripture of Nature.</p> + +<p>We stood on the verge of a precipice more than three thousand feet in +height,—a sheer granite wall, whose terrible perpendicular distance +baffled all visual computation. Its foot was hidden among hazy green +<i>spiculæ</i>—they might be tender spears of grass catching the slant sun +on upheld aprons of cobweb, or giant pines whose tops that sun first +gilt before he made gold of all the Valley.</p> + +<p>There faced us another wall like our own. How far off it might be we +could only guess. When Nature's lightning hits a man fair and square, it +splits his yardstick. On recovering from this stroke, mathematicians +have ascertained the width of the Valley to vary between half a mile and +five miles. Where we stood the width is about two.</p> + +<p>I said a wall like our own; but as yet we could not know that certainly, +for of our own we saw nothing. Our eyes seemed spell-bound to the +tremendous precipice which stood smiling, not frowning at us, in all the +serene radiance of a snow-white granite Boodh,—broadly burning, rather +than glistening, in the white-hot splendors of the setting sun. From +that sun, clear back to the first <i>avant-courier</i> trace of purple +twilight flushing the eastern sky-rim—yes, as if it were the very +butment of the eternally blue Californian heaven—ran that wall, always +sheer as the plummet, without a visible break through which squirrel +might climb or sparrow fly,—so broad that it was just faint-lined like +the paper on which I write by the loftiest waterfall in the world,—so +lofty that its very breadth could not dwarf it, while the mighty pines +and Douglas firs which grew all along its edge seemed like mere cilia on +the granite lid of the Great Valley's upgazing eye. In the first +astonishment of the view, we took the whole battlement at a sweep, and +seemed to see an unbroken sky-line; but as ecstasy gave way to +examination, we discovered how greatly some portions of the precipice +surpassed our immediate <i>vis-à-vis</i> in height.</p> + +<p>First, a little east of our off-look, there projected boldly into the +Valley from the dominant line of the base a square stupendous tower that +might have been hewn by the diamond adzes of the Genii for a second +Babel-experiment, in expectance of the wrath of Allah. Here and there +the tools had left a faint scratch, only deep as the width of Broadway +and a bagatelle of five hundred feet in length; but that detracted no +more from the unblemished four-square contour of the entire mass than a +pin-mark from the symmetry of a door-post. A city might have been built +on its grand flat top. And, oh! the gorgeous masses of light and shadow +which the falling sun cast on it,—the shadows like great waves, the +lights like their spumy tops and flying mist,—thrown up from the +heaving breast of a golden sea! In California at this season the dome of +heaven is cloudless; but I still dream of what must be done for the +bringing-out of Tu-toch-anula's coronation-day majesties by the broken +winter sky of fleece and fire. The height of his precipice is nearly +four thousand feet perpendicular; his name is supposed to be that of the +Valley's tutelar deity. He also rejoices in a Spanish <i>alias</i>,—some +Mission Indian having attempted to translate by "<i>El Capitan</i>" the idea +of divine authority implied in Tu-toch-anula.</p> + +<p>Far up the Valley to the eastward there rose far above the rest of the +sky-line, and nearly five thousand feet above the Valley, a hemisphere +of granite, capping the sheer wall, without an apparent tree or shrub to +hide its vast proportions. This we immediately recognized as the famous +To-coy-æ, better known through Watkins's photographs as the Great North +Dome. I am ignorant of the meaning of the former name, but the latter is +certainly appropriate. Between Tu-toch-anula and the Dome, the wall rose +here and there into great pinnacles and towers, but its sky-line is far +more regular than that of the southern side, where we were standing.</p> + +<p>We drew close to the edge of the precipice and looked along over our own +wall up the Valley. Its contour was a rough curve from our stand-point +to a station opposite the North Dome, where the Valley dwindles to its +least width, so that all the intermediate crests and pinnacles which +topped the perpendicular wall stood within our vision like the teeth of +a saw, clear and sharp-cut against the blue sky. There is the same +plumb-line uprightness in these mighty precipices as in those of the +opposite side; but their front is much more broken by bold promontories, +and their tabular tops, instead of lying horizontal, slope up at an +angle of forty-five degrees or more from the spot where we were +standing, and make a succession of oblique prism-sections whose upper +edges are between three and four thousand feet in height. But the glory +of this southern wall comes at the termination of our view opposite the +North Dome. Here the precipice rises to the height of nearly one sheer +mile with a parabolic sky-line, and its posterior surface is as +elegantly rounded as an acorn-cup. From this contour results a naked +semi-cone of polished granite, whose face would cover one of our smaller +Eastern counties, though its exquisite proportions make it seem a thing +to hold in the hollow of the hand. A small pine-covered <i>glacis</i> of +detritus lies at its foot, but every yard above that is bare of all life +save the palæozoic memories which have wrinkled the granite Colossus +from the earliest seethings of the fire-time. I never could call a +Yo-Semite crag <i>inorganic</i>, as I used to speak of everything not +strictly animal or vegetal. In the presence of the Great South Dome that +utterance became blasphemous. Not living was it? Who knew but the +<i>débris</i> at its foot was merely the cast-off sweat and <i>exuviæ</i> of a +stone life's great work-day? Who knew but the vital changes which were +going on within its gritty cellular tissue were only imperceptible to us +because silent and vastly secular? What was he who stood up before +Tis-sa-ack and said, "Thou art dead rock!" save a momentary sojourner in +the bosom of a cyclic period whose clock his race had never yet lived +long enough to hear strike? What, too, if Tis-sa-ack himself were but +one of the atoms in a grand organism where we could see only by monads +at a time,—if he and the sun and the sea were but cells or organs of +some one small being in the fenceless <i>vivarium</i> of the Universe? Let +not the ephemeron that lights on a baby's hand generalize too rashly +upon the non-growing of organisms! As we thought on these things, we +bared our heads to the barer forehead of Tis-sa-ack.</p> + +<p>I have spoken of the Great South Dome in the masculine gender, but the +native tradition makes it feminine. Nowhere is there a more beautiful +Indian legend than that of Tis-sa-ack. I will condense it into a few +short sentences from the long report of an old Yo-Semite brave. +Tis-sa-ack was the tutelar goddess of the Valley, as Tu-toch-anula was +its fostering god,—the former a radiant maiden, the latter an +ever-young immortal,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"amorous as the month of May."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Becoming desperately fascinated with his fair colleague, Tu-toch-anula +spent in her arms all the divine long days of the California summer, +kissing, dallying, and lingering, until the Valley-tribes began to +starve for lack of the crops which his supervision should have ripened, +and a deputation of venerable men came from the dying people to +prostrate themselves at the foot of Tis-sa-ack. Full of anguish at her +nation's woes, she rose from her lover's arms, and cried for succor to +the Great Spirit. Then, with a terrible noise of thunder, the mighty +cone split from heaven to earth,—its frontal half falling down to dam +the snow-waters back into a lake, whence to this day the beautiful +Valley-stream takes one of its loveliest branches,—its other segment +remaining erect till this present, to be the Great South Dome under the +<i>in-memoriam</i> title of Tis-sa-ack. But the divine maiden who died to +save her people appeared on earth no more, and in his agony +Tu-toch-anula carved her image on the face of the mile-high wall, as he +had carved his own on the surface of El Capitan,—where a lively faith +and good glasses may make out the effigies unto this day.</p> + +<p>Sometimes these Indian traditions, being translated according to the +doctrine of correspondences, are of great use to the scientific man,—in +the present instance, as embalming with sweet spices a geological fact, +and the reason of a water-course which else might become obscured by +time. You may lose a rough fact because everybody is handling it and +passing it around with the sense of a liberty to present it next in his +own way; but a fact with its facets cut—otherwise a poem—is +unchangeable, imperditable. Seeing it has been manufactured once, nobody +tries to make it over again. The fact is regarded subject to liberal +translation; poems circulate virgin and <i>verbatim</i>. In some future +article I may recur to this topic with reference to the Columbia River, +and the capital light afforded to delvers in its wondrous trap-rock by +the lantern of Indian legend.</p> + +<p>Let us leave the walls of the Valley to speak of the Valley itself, as +seen from this great altitude. There lies a sweep of emerald grass +turned to chrysoprase by the slant-beamed sun,—chrysoprase beautiful +enough to have been the tenth foundation-stone of John's apocalyptic +heaven. Broad and fair just beneath us, it narrows to a little strait of +green between the butments that uplift the giant domes. Far to the +westward, widening more and more, it opens into the bosom of great +mountain-ranges,—into a field of perfect light, misty by its own +excess,—into an unspeakable suffusion of glory created from the +phœnix-pile of the dying sun. Here it lies almost as treeless as some +rich old clover-mead; yonder, its luxuriant smooth grasses give way to a +dense wood of cedars, oaks, and pines. Not a living creature, either man +or beast, breaks the visible silence of this inmost paradise; but for +ourselves, standing at the precipice, petrified, as it were, rock on +rock, the great world might well be running back in stone-and-grassy +dreams to the hour when God had given him as yet but two daughters, the +crag and the clover. We were breaking into the sacred closet of Nature's +self-examination. What if, on considering herself, she should of a +sudden, and us-ward unawares, determine to begin the throes of a new +cycle,—spout up remorseful lavas from her long-hardened conscience, and +hurl us all skyward in a hot concrete with her unbosomed sins? Earth +below was as motionless as the ancient heavens above, save for the +shining serpent of the Merced, which silently to our ears threaded the +middle of the grass, and twinkled his burnished back in the sunset +wherever for a space he gilded out of the shadow of woods.</p> + +<p>To behold this Promised Land proved quite a different thing from +possessing it. Only the <i>silleros</i> of the Andes, our mules, horses, and +selves, can understand how much like a nightmare of endless roof-walking +was the descent down the face of the precipice. A painful and most +circuitous dug-way, where our animals had constantly to stop, lest their +impetus should tumble them headlong, all the way past steeps where the +mere thought of a side-fall was terror, brought us in the twilight to a +green meadow, ringed by woods, on the banks of the Merced.</p> + +<p>Here we pitched our first Yo-Semite camp,—calling it "Camp Rosalie," +after a dear absent friend of mine and Bierstadt's. Removing our packs +and saddles, we dismissed their weary bearers to the deep green meadow, +with no farther qualification to their license than might be found in +ropes seventy feet long fastened to deep-driven pickets. We soon got +together dead wood and pitchy boughs enough to kindle a roaring +fire,—made a kitchen-table by wedging logs between the trunks of a +three-forked tree, and thatching these with smaller sticks,—selected a +cedar-canopied piece of flat sward near the fire for our bed-room, and +as high up as we could reach despoiled our fragrant <i>baldacchini</i> for +the mattresses. I need not praise to any woodsman the quality of a sleep +on evergreen-strewings.</p> + +<p>During our whole stay in the Valley, most of us made it our practice to +rise with the dawn, and, immediately after a bath in the ice-cold +Merced, take a breakfast which might sometimes fail in the +game-department, but was an invariable success, considered as slapjacks +and coffee. Then the loyal nephew of the Secesh governor and the +testamentary guardian of the orphan mules brought our horses up from +picket; then the artists with their camp-stools and color-boxes, the +sages with their goggles, nets, botany-boxes, and bug-holders, the +gentlemen of elegant leisure with their naked eyes and a fish-rod or a +gun, all rode away whither they listed, firing back Parthian shots of +injunction about the dumpling in the grouse-fricassee.</p> + +<p>Sitting in their divine workshop, by a little after sunrise our artists +began labor in that only method which can ever make a true painter or a +living landscape, <i>color</i>-studies on the spot; and though I am not here +to speak of their results, I will assert that during their seven weeks' +camp in the Valley they learned more and gained greater material for +future triumphs than they had gotten in all their lives before at the +feet of the greatest masters. Meanwhile the other two vaguely divided +orders of gentlemen and sages were sight-seeing, whipping the covert or +the pool with various success for our next day's dinner, or hunting +specimens of all kinds,—<i>Agassizing</i>, so to speak.</p> + +<p>I cannot praise the Merced to that vulgar, yet extensive, class of +sportsmen with whom fishing means nothing but catching fish,—to that +select minority of <i>illuminati</i> who go trouting for intellectual +culture, because they cannot hear Booth or a <i>Sonata</i> of +Beethoven's,—who write rhapsodies of much fire and many pages on the +divine superiority of the curve of an hyperbola over that of a parabola +in the cast of a fly,—who call three little troutlings "<i>a splendid +day's sport, me boy</i>!" because those rash and ill-advised infants have +been deceived by a feather-bug which never would have been of any use to +them, instead of a real worm which would. We, who can make prettier +curves and deceive larger game in a dancing-party at home, did not go to +the Yo-Semite for that kind of sport. When I found that the best bait or +fly caught only half a dozen trout in an afternoon,—and those the dull, +black, California kind, with lined sides, but no spots,—I gave over +bothering the unambitious burghers of the flood with invitations to a +rise in life, and took to the meadows with a butterfly-net.</p> + +<p>My experience teaches that no sage (or gentleman) should chase the +butterfly on horseback. You are liable to put your net over your horse's +head instead of the butterfly. The butterfly keeps rather ahead of the +horse. You may throw your horse when you mean to throw the net. The idea +is a romantic one; it carries you back to the days of chivalry, when +court-butterflies <i>were</i> said to have been netted from the saddle,—but +it carries you nowhere else in particular, unless perhaps into a small +branch of the Merced, where you don't want to go. Then, too, if you slip +down and leave your horse standing while you steal on a giant <i>Papilio</i> +which is sucking the deer-weed in <i>such</i> a sweet spot for a cast, your +horse (perhaps he has heard of the French general who said, "Asses and +<i>savans</i> to the centre!") may discover that he also is a sage, and +retire to botanize while you are butterflying,—a contingency which +entails your wading the Merced after him five several times, and finally +going back to camp in wet disgust to procure another horse and a lariat. +An experience faintly hinted at in the above suggestions soon convinced +me that the great arm of the service in butterfly-warfare is infantry. +After I had turned myself into a modest Retiarius, I had no end to +success. Mariposa County is rightly named. The honey of its groves and +meadows is sucked by some of the largest, the most magnificent, and most +widely varied butterflies in the world.</p> + +<p>At noon those of us who came back to camp had a substantial dinner out +of our abundant stores, reinforced occasionally with grouse, quail, or +pigeons, contributed by the sportsmen. The artists mostly dined <i>à la +fourchette</i>, in their workshop,—something in a pail being carried out +to them at noon by our Infant Phenomenon. He was a skeleton of thinness, +and an incredibly gaunt mustang was the one which invariably carried the +lunch; so we used to call the boy, when we saw him coming, "Death on the +Pail-Horse." At evening, when the artists returned, half an hour was +passed in a "private view" of their day's studies; then came another +dinner, called a supper; then the tea-kettle was emptied into a pan, and +brush-washing with talk and pipes led the rest of the genial way to +bed-time.</p> + +<p>In his charming "Peculiar," Epes Sargent has given us an episode called +the "Story of Estelle." It is the greatest of compliments to him that I +could get thoroughly interested in her lover, when he bore the name of +one of the most audacious and <i>picaresque</i> mortals I ever knew,—our +hired man, who sold us—our——But hear my episode: it is</p> + + +<h3>THE STORY OF VANCE.</h3> + +<p>Vance. The cognomen of the loyal nephew with the Secesh uncle. I will be +brief. Our stores began to fail. One morning we equipped Vance with a +horse, a pack-mule to lead behind him, a list of purchases, and eighty +golden dollars, bidding him good-speed on the trail to Mariposa. He was +to return laden with all the modern equivalents for corn, wine, and oil, +on the fifth or sixth day from his departure. Seven days glided by, and +the material for more slapjacks with them. We grew perilously nigh our +bag-bottoms.</p> + +<p>One morning I determined to save the party from starvation, and with a +fresh supply of the currency set out for Mariposa. At Clark's I learned +that our man had camped there about noon on the day he left us, turned +his horse and mule loose, instead of picketing them, and spent the rest +of the sunlight in a <i>siesta</i>. When he arose, his animals were +undiscoverable. He accordingly borrowed Clark's only horse to go in +search of them, and the generous hermit had not seen him since.</p> + +<p>Carrying these pleasant bits of intelligence, I resumed my way toward +the settlements. Coming by the steam saw-mill, I recognized Vance's +steed grazing by the way-side, threw my lariat over his head, and led +him in triumph to Mariposa. There I arrived at eight in the evening of +the day I left the Valley,—having performed fifty miles of the hardest +mountain-trail that was ever travelled in a little less than twelve +hours, making allowance for our halt and noon-feed at Clark's. If ever a +California horse was tried, it was mine on that occasion; and he came +into Mariposa on the full gallop, scarcely wet, and not galled or jaded +in the least.</p> + +<p>Here I found our mule, whose obstinate memory had carried him home to +his old stable,—also the remaining events in Vance's brief, but +brilliant career. That ornament of the Utah and Yo-Semite expeditions +had entered Mariposa on Clark's horse,—lost our eighty golden dollars +at a single session of bluff,—departed gayly for Coulterville, where he +sold Clark's horse at auction for forty dollars, including saddle and +bridle, and immediately at another game of bluff lost the entire +purchase-money to the happy buyer, (Clark got his horse again on proving +title,)—and finally vanished for parts unknown, with nothing in his +pocket but buttons, or in his memory but villanies. Nowhere out of +California or Old Spain can there exist such a modern survivor of the +days of Gil Blas!</p> + +<p>Too happy in the recovery of Clark's and our own animals to waste time +in hue-and-cry, I loaded my two reclaimed pack-beasts with all that our +commissariat needed,—nooned at Clark's, on my way back, the third day +after leaving the Valley for Mariposa, and that same night was among my +rejoicing comrades at the head of the Great Yo-Semite. That afternoon +they had come to the bottom of the flour-bag, after living for three +days on unleavened slapjacks without either butter or sirup. I have seen +people who professed to relish the Jewish Passover-bread; but, after +such an experience as our party's, I venture to say they would have +regarded it worthy of a place among the other abolished types of the +Mosaic dispensation. As for me and the mule, we felt our hearts swell +within us as if we had come to raise the siege of Leyden. In that same +enthusiasm shared our artists, <i>savans</i>, and gentlemen, embracing the +shaggy neck of the mule as he had been a brother what time they realized +that his panniers were full. Can any one wonder at my early words, "A +slapjack may be the last plank between the woodsman and starvation"?</p> + +<p>Just before I started after supplies our party moved its camp to a +position five miles up the Valley beyond Camp Rosalie, in a beautiful +grove of oaks and cedars, close upon the most sinuous part of the Merced +margin, with rich pasture for our animals immediately across the stream, +and the loftiest cataract in the world roaring over the bleak precipice +opposite. This is the Yo-Semite Fall proper, or, in the Indian, +"Cho-looke." By the most recent geological surveys this fall is credited +with the astounding height of twenty-eight hundred feet. At an early +period the entire mass of water must have plunged that distance without +break. At this day a single ledge of slant projection changes the +headlong flood from cataract to rapids for about four hundred feet; but +the unbroken upper fall is fifteen hundred feet, and the lower thirteen +hundred. In the spring and early summer no more magnificent sight can be +imagined than the tourist obtains from a stand-point right in the midst +of the spray, driven, as by a wind blowing thirty miles an hour, from +the thundering basin of the lower fall. At all seasons Cho-looke is the +grandest mountain-waterfall in the known world.</p> + +<p>While I am speaking of waterfalls, let me not omit "Po-ho-nó," or "The +Bridal Veil," which was passed on the southern side in our way to the +second and about a mile above the first camp. As Tis-sa-ack was a good, +so is Po-ho-nó an evil spirit of the Indian mythology. This tradition is +scientifically accounted for in the fact that many Indians have been +carried over the fall by the tremendous current both of wind and water +forever rushing down a <i>cañon</i> through which the stream breaks from its +feeding-lake twelve or fifteen miles before it falls. The savage lowers +his voice to a whisper and crouches trembling past Po-ho-nó; while the +very utterance of the name is so dreaded by him that the discoverers of +the Valley obtained it with great difficulty. This fall drops on a heap +of giant boulders in one unbroken sheet of a thousand feet +perpendicular, thus being the next in height among all the +Valley-cataracts to the Yo-Semite itself, and having a width of fifty +feet. Its name of "The Bridal Veil" is one of the few successes in +fantastic nomenclature; for, to one viewing it in profile, its snowy +sheet, broken into the filmy silver lace of spray and falling quite free +of the brow of the precipice, might well seem the veil worn by the earth +at her granite wedding,—no commemorator of any fifty-years' bagatelle +like the golden one, but crowning the one-millionth anniversary of her +nuptials.</p> + +<p>On either side of Po-ho-nó the sky-line of the precipice is +magnificently varied. The fall itself cuts a deep gorge into the crown +of the battlement. On the southwest border of the fall stands a nobly +bold, but nameless rock, three thousand feet in height. Near by is +Sentinel Rock, a solitary truncate pinnacle, towering to thirty-three +hundred feet. A little farther are "Eleachas," or "The Three Brothers," +flush with the front-surface of the precipice, but their upper posterior +bounding-planes tilted in three tiers, which reach a height of +thirty-four hundred and fifty feet.</p> + +<p>One of the loveliest places in the Valley is the shore of Lake +Ah-wi-yah,—a crystal pond of several acres in extent, fed by the north +fork of the Valley-stream, and lying right at the mouth of the narrow +strait between the North and South Domes. By this tranquil water we +pitched our third camp, and when the rising sun began to shine through +the mighty cleft before us, the play of color and <i>chiaroscuro</i> on its +rugged walls was something for which an artist apt to oversleep himself +might well have sat up all the night. No such precaution was needed by +ourselves. Painters, sages, and gentlemen at large, all turned out by +dawn; for the studies were grander, the grouse and quail plentier, and +the butterflies more gorgeous than we found in any other portion of the +Valley. After passing the great cleft eastward, I found the river more +enchanting at every step. I was obliged to penetrate in this direction +entirely on foot,—clambering between squared blocks of granite +dislodged from the wall beneath the North Dome, any one of which might +have been excavated into a commodious church, and discovering, for the +pains cost by a reconnoissance of five miles, some of the loveliest +shady stretches of singing water and some of the finest minor waterfalls +in our American scenery.</p> + +<p>Our last camp was pitched among the crags and forests behind the South +Dome,—where the Middle Fork descends through two successive waterfalls, +which, in apparent breadth and volume, far surpass Cho-looke, while the +loftiest is nearly as high as Po-ho-nó. About three miles west of the +Domes, the south wall of the Valley is interrupted by a deep <i>cañon</i> +leading in a nearly southeast direction. Through this <i>cañon</i> comes the +Middle Fork, and along its banks lies our course to the great +"Pi-wi-ack" (senselessly Englished as "Vernal") and the Nevada Falls. +For three miles from our camp opposite the Yo-Semite Fall the <i>cañon</i> is +threaded by a trail practicable for horses. At its termination we +dismounted, sent back our animals, and, strapping their loads upon our +own shoulders, struck nearly eastward by a path only less rugged than +the trackless crags around us. In some places we were compelled to +squeeze sideways through a narrow crevice in the rocks, at imminent +danger to our burden of blankets and camp-kettles; in others we became +quadrupedal, scrambling up acclivities with which the bald main +precipice had made but slight compromise. But for our light marching +order,—our only dress being knee-boots, hunting-shirt, and +trowsers,—it would have been next to impossible to reach our goal at +all.</p> + +<p>But none of us regretted pouring sweat or strained sinews, when, at the +end of our last terrible climb, we stood upon the oozy sod which is +brightened into eternal emerald by the spray of Pi-wi-ack. Far below our +slippery standing steeply sloped the walls of the ragged chasm down +which the snowy river charges roaring after its first headlong plunge; +an eternal rainbow flung its shimmering arch across the mighty caldron +at the base of the fall; and straight before us in one unbroken leap +came down Pi-wi-ack from a granite shelf nearly four hundred feet in +height and sixty feet in perfectly horizontal width. Some enterprising +speculator, who has since ceased to take the original seventy-five +cents' toll, a few years ago built a substantial set of rude ladders +against the perpendicular wall over which Pi-wi-ack rushes. We found it +still standing, and climbed the dizzy height in a shower of spray, so +close to the edge of the fall that we could almost wet our hands in its +rim. Once at the top, we found that Nature had been as accommodating to +the sight-seer as man himself; for the ledge we landed on was a perfect +breastwork, built from the receding precipices on either side of the +<i>cañon</i> to the very crown of the cataract. The weakest nerves need not +have trembled, when once within the parapet, on the smooth, flat +rampart, and looking down into the tremendous boiling chasm whence we +had just climbed.</p> + +<p>Above Pi-wi-ack the river runs for a mile at the bottom of a granite +cradle, sloping upward from it on each side at an angle of about +forty-five degrees, in great tabular masses slippery as ice, without a +crevice in them for thirty yards at a stretch where even the scraggiest +<i>manzanita</i> may catch hold and grow. This tilted formation, broken here +and there by spots of scanty alluvium and stunted pines, continues +upward till it intersects the posterior cone of the South Dome on one +side and a colossal castellated precipice on the other,—creating thus +the very typical landscape of sublime desolation. The shining barrenness +of these rocks, and the utter nakedness of that vast glittering dome +which hollows the heavens beyond them, cannot be conveyed by any +metaphor to a reader knowing only the wood-crowned slopes of the +Alleghany chain.</p> + +<p>Climbing between the stunted pines and giant blocks along the stream's +immediate margin,—getting glimpses here and there of the snowy fretwork +of churned water which laced the higher rocks, and the black whirls +which spun in the deep pits of the roaring bed beneath us,—we came at +last to the base of "Yo-wi-ye," or Nevada Fall.</p> + +<p>This is the most voluminous, and next to Pi-wi-ack, perhaps, the most +beautiful of the Yo-Semite cataracts. Its beauty is partly owing to the +surrounding rugged grandeur which contrasts it, partly to its great +height (eight hundred feet) and surpassing volume, but mainly to its +exquisite and unusual shape. It falls from a precipice the highest +portion of whose face is as smoothly perpendicular as the wall overleapt +by Pi-wi-ack; but invisibly beneath its snowy flood a ledge slants +sideways from the cliff about a hundred feet below the crown of the +fall, and at an angle of about thirty degrees from the plumb-line. Over +this ledge the water is deflected upon one side and spread like a +half-open fan to the width of nearly two hundred feet.</p> + +<p>At the base of Yo-wi-ye we seem standing in a <i>cul-de-sac</i> of Nature's +grandest labyrinth. Look where we will, impregnable battlements hem us +in. We gaze at the sky from the bottom of a savage granite <i>barathrum</i>, +whence there is no escape but return through the chinks and over the +crags of an Old-World convulsion. We are at the end of the stupendous +series of Yo-Semite <i>effects</i>; eight hundred feet above us, could we +climb there, we should find the silent causes of power. There lie the +broad, still pools that hold the reserved affluence of the snow-peaks; +thence might we see, glittering like diamond lances in the sun, the +eternal snow-peaks themselves. But these would still be as far above us +as we stood below Yo-wi-ye on the lowest valley-bottom whence we came. +Even from Inspiration Point, where our trail first struck the +battlement, we could see far beyond the Valley to the rising sun, +towering mightily above Tis-sa-ack herself, the everlasting +snow-forehead of Castle Rock, his crown's serrated edge cutting the sky +at the topmost height of the Sierra. We had spoken of reaching him,—of +holding converse with the King of all the Giants. This whole weary way +have we toiled since then,—and we know better now. Have we endured all +these pains only to learn still deeper Life's saddest lesson,—"Climb +forever, and there is still an Inaccessible"?</p> + +<p>Wetting our faces with the melted treasure of Nature's topmost +treasure-house, Yo-wi-ye answers us ere we turn back from the +Yo-Semite's last precipice toward the haunts of men:—</p> + +<p>"Ye who cannot go to the Highest, lo, the Highest comes down to you!"</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="HOUSE_AND_HOME_PAPERS" id="HOUSE_AND_HOME_PAPERS"></a>HOUSE AND HOME PAPERS.</h2> + +<h3>BY CHRISTOPHER CROWFIELD.</h3> + + +<h3>VI.</h3> + +<p>"My dear Chris," said my wife, "isn't it time to be writing the next +'House and Home Paper'?"</p> + +<p>I was lying back in my study-chair, with my heels luxuriously propped on +an ottoman, reading for the two-hundredth time Hawthorne's "Mosses from +an Old Manse," or his "Twice-Told Tales," I forget which,—I only know +that these books constitute my cloud-land, where I love to sail away in +dreamy quietude, forgetting the war, the price of coal and flour, the +rates of exchange, and the rise and fall of gold. What do all these +things matter, as seen from those enchanted gardens in Padua where the +weird Rappaccini tends his enchanted plants, and his gorgeous daughter +fills us with the light and magic of her presence, and saddens us with +the shadowy allegoric mystery of her preternatural destiny? But my wife +represents the positive forces of time, place, and number in our family, +and, having also a chronological head, she knows the day of the month, +and therefore gently reminded me that by inevitable dates the time drew +near for preparing my—which is it now, May or June number?</p> + +<p>"Well, my dear, you are right," I said, as by an exertion I came +head-uppermost, and laid down the fascinating volume. "Let me see, what +was I to write about?"</p> + +<p>"Why, you remember you were to answer that letter from the lady who does +her own work."</p> + +<p>"Enough!" said I, seizing the pen with alacrity; "you have hit the exact +phrase:—</p> + +<p>"'The <i>lady</i> who <i>does her own work</i>.'"</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>America is the only country where such a title is possible,—the only +country where there is a class of women who may be described as <i>ladies</i> +who do their own work. By a lady we mean a woman of education, +cultivation, and refinement, of liberal tastes and ideas, who, without +any very material additions or changes, would be recognized as a lady in +any circle of the Old World or the New.</p> + +<p>What I have said is, that the existence of such a class is a fact +peculiar to American society, a clear, plain result of the new +principles involved in the doctrine of universal equality.</p> + +<p>When the colonists first came to this country, of however mixed +ingredients their ranks might have been composed, and however imbued +with the spirit of feudal and aristocratic ideas, the discipline of the +wilderness soon brought them to a democratic level; the gentleman felled +the wood for his log-cabin side by side with the ploughman, and thews +and sinews rose in the market. "A man was deemed honorable in proportion +as he lifted his hand upon the high trees of the forest." So in the +interior domestic circle. Mistress and maid, living in a log-cabin +together, became companions, and sometimes the maid, as the more +accomplished and stronger, took precedence of the mistress. It became +natural and unavoidable that children should begin to work as early as +they were capable of it. The result was a generation of intelligent +people brought up to labor from necessity, but turning on the problem of +labor the acuteness of a disciplined brain. The mistress, outdone in +sinews and muscles by her maid, kept her superiority by skill and +contrivance. If she could not lift a pail of water, she could invent +methods which made lifting the pail unnecessary,—if she could not take +a hundred steps without weariness, she could make twenty answer the +purpose of a hundred.</p> + +<p>Slavery, it is true, was to some extent introduced into New England, but +it never suited the genius of the people, never struck deep root, or +spread so as to choke the good seed of self-helpfulness. Many were +opposed to it from conscientious principle,—many from far-sighted +thrift, and from a love of thoroughness and well-doing which despised +the rude, unskilled work of barbarians. People, having once felt the +thorough neatness and beauty of execution which came of free, educated, +and thoughtful labor, could not tolerate the clumsiness of slavery. Thus +it came to pass that for many years the rural population of New England, +as a general rule, did their own work, both out doors and in. If there +were a black man or black woman or bound girl, they were emphatically +only the <i>helps</i>, following humbly the steps of master and mistress, and +used by them as instruments of lightening certain portions of their +toil. The master and mistress with their children were the head workers.</p> + +<p>Great merriment has been excited in the Old Country, because years ago +the first English travellers found that the class of persons by them +denominated servants were in America denominated <i>help</i> or helpers. But +the term was the very best exponent of the state of society. There were +few servants, in the European sense of the word; there was a society of +educated workers, where all were practically equal, and where, if there +was a deficiency in one family and an excess in another, a <i>helper</i>, not +a servant, was hired. Mrs. Browne, who has six sons and no daughters, +enters into agreement with Mrs. Jones, who has six daughters and no +sons. She borrows a daughter, and pays her good wages to help in her +domestic toil, and sends a son to help the labors of Mr. Jones. These +two young people go into the families in which they are to be employed +in all respects as equals and companions, and so the work of the +community is equalized. Hence arose, and for many years continued, a +state of society more nearly solving than any other ever did the problem +of combining the highest culture of the mind with the highest culture of +the muscles and the physical faculties.</p> + +<p>Then were to be seen families of daughters, handsome, strong females, +rising each day to their in-door work with cheerful alertness,—one to +sweep the room, another to make the fire, while a third prepared the +breakfast for the father and brothers who were going out to manly labor; +and they chatted meanwhile of books, studies, embroidery, discussed the +last new poem, or some historical topic started by graver reading, or +perhaps a rural ball that was to come off the next week. They spun with +the book tied to the distaff; they wove; they did all manner of fine +needle-work; they made lace, painted flowers, and, in short, in the +boundless consciousness of activity, invention, and perfect health, set +themselves to any work they had ever read or thought of. A bride in +those days was married with sheets and table-cloths of her own weaving, +with counterpanes and toilet-covers wrought in divers embroidery by her +own and her sisters' hands. The amount of fancy-work done in our days by +girls who have nothing else to do will not equal what was done by these, +who performed besides, among them, the whole work of the family.</p> + +<p>For many years these habits of life characterized the majority of our +rural towns. They still exist among a class respectable in numbers and +position, though perhaps not as happy in perfect self-satisfaction and a +conviction of the dignity and desirableness of its lot as in former +days. Human nature is above all things—lazy. Every one confesses in the +abstract that exertion which brings out all the powers of body and mind +is the best thing for us all; but practically most people do all they +can to get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than +circumstances drive him to do. Even I would not write this article, were +not the publication-day hard on my heels. I should read Hawthorne and +Emerson and Holmes, and dream in my arm-chair, and project in the clouds +those lovely unwritten stories that curl and veer and change like +mist-wreaths in the sun. So, also, however dignified, however +invigorating, however really desirable are habits of life involving +daily physical toil, there is a constant evil demon at every one's +elbow, seducing him to evade it, or to bear its weight with sullen, +discontented murmurs.</p> + +<p>I will venture to say that there are at least, to speak very moderately, +a hundred houses where these humble lines will be read and discussed, +where there are no servants except the ladies of the household. I will +venture to say, also, that these households, many of them, are not +inferior in the air of cultivation and refined elegance to many which +are conducted by the ministration of domestics. I will venture to +assert, furthermore, that these same ladies who live thus find quite as +much time for reading, letter-writing, drawing, embroidery, and +fancy-work, as the women of families otherwise arranged. I am quite +certain that they would be found on an average to be in the enjoyment of +better health, and more of that sense of capability and vitality which +gives one confidence in one's ability to look into life and meet it with +cheerful courage, than three-quarters of the women who keep +servants,—and that on the whole their domestic establishment is +regulated more exactly to their mind, their food prepared and served +more to their taste. And yet, with all this, I will <i>not</i> venture to +assert that they are satisfied with this way of living, and that they +would not change it forthwith, if they could. They have a secret feeling +all the while that they are being abused, that they are working harder +than they ought to, and that women who live in their houses like +boarders, who have only to speak and it is done, are the truly enviable +ones. One after another of their associates, as opportunity offers and +means increase, desert the ranks, and commit their domestic affairs to +the hands of hired servants. Self-respect takes the alarm. Is it +altogether genteel to live as we do? To be sure, we are accustomed to +it; we have it all systematized and arranged; the work of our own hands +suits us better than any we can hire; in fact, when we do hire, we are +discontented and uncomfortable,—for who will do for us what we will do +for ourselves? But when we have company! there's the rub, to get out all +our best things and put them back,—to cook the meals and wash the +dishes ingloriously,—and to make all appear as if we didn't do it, and +had servants like other people.</p> + +<p>There, after all, is the rub. A want of hardy self-belief and +self-respect,—an unwillingness to face with dignity the actual facts +and necessities of our situation in life,—this, after all, is the worst +and most dangerous feature of the case. It is the same sort of pride +which makes Smilax think he must hire a waiter in white gloves, and get +up a circuitous dinner-party on English principles, to entertain a +friend from England. Because the friend in England lives in such and +such a style, he must make believe for a day that he lives so too, when +in fact it is a whirlwind in his domestic establishment equal to a +removal or a fire, and threatens the total extinction of Mrs. Smilax. +Now there are two principles of hospitality that people are very apt to +overlook. One is, that their guests like to be made at home, and treated +with confidence; and another is, that people are always interested in +the details of a way of life that is new to them. The Englishman comes +to America as weary of his old, easy, family-coach life as you can be of +yours; he wants to see something new under the sun,—something American; +and forthwith we all bestir ourselves to give him something as near as +we can fancy exactly like what he is already tired of. So city-people +come to the country, not to sit in the best parlor, and to see the +nearest imitation of city-life, but to lie on the hay-mow, to swing in +the barn, to form intimacy with the pigs, chickens, and ducks, and to +eat baked potatoes exactly on the critical moment when they are done, +from the oven of the cooking-stove,—and we remark, <i>en passant</i>, that +nobody has ever truly eaten a baked potato, unless he has seized it at +that precise and fortunate moment.</p> + +<p>I fancy you now, my friends, whom I have in my eye. You are three happy +women together. You are all so well that you know not how it feels to be +sick. You are used to early rising, and would not lie in bed, if you +could. Long years of practice have made you familiar with the shortest, +neatest, most expeditious method of doing every household office, so +that really for the greater part of the time in your house there seems +to a looker-on to be nothing to do. You rise in the morning and despatch +your husband, father, and brothers to the farm or wood-lot; you go +sociably about chatting with each other, while you skim the milk, make +the butter, turn the cheeses. The forenoon is long; it's ten to one that +all the so-called morning work is over, and you have leisure for an +hour's sewing or reading before it is time to start the +dinner-preparations. By two o'clock your house-work is done, and you +have the long afternoon for books, needle-work, or drawing,—for perhaps +there is among you one with a gift at her pencil. Perhaps one of you +reads aloud while the others sew, and you manage in that way to keep up +with a great deal of reading. I see on your book-shelves Prescott, +Macaulay, Irving, besides the lighter fry of poems and novels, and, if I +mistake not, the friendly covers of the "Atlantic." When you have +company, you invite Mrs. Smith or Brown or Jones to tea; you have no +trouble; they come early, with their knitting or sewing; your particular +crony sits with you by your polished stove while you watch the baking of +those light biscuits and tea-rusks for which you are so famous, and Mrs. +Somebody-else chats with your sister, who is spreading the table with +your best china in the best room. When tea is over, there is plenty of +volunteering to help you wash your pretty India teacups, and get them +back into the cupboard. There is no special fatigue or exertion in all +this, though you have taken down the best things and put them back, +because you have done all without anxiety or effort, among those who +would do precisely the same, if you were their visitors.</p> + +<p>But now comes down pretty Mrs. Simmons and her pretty daughter to spend +a week with you, and forthwith you are troubled. Your youngest, Fanny, +visited them in New York last fall, and tells you of their cook and +chambermaid, and the servant in white gloves that waits on table. You +say in your soul, "What shall we do? they never can be contented to live +as we do; how shall we manage?" And now you long for servants.</p> + +<p>This is the very time that you should know that Mrs. Simmons is tired to +death of her fine establishment, and weighed down with the task of +keeping the peace among her servants. She is a quiet soul, dearly loving +her ease, and hating strife; and yet last week she had five quarrels to +settle between her invaluable cook and the other members of her staff, +because invaluable cook, on the strength of knowing how to get up +state-dinners and to manage all sorts of mysteries which her mistress +knows nothing about, asserts the usual right of spoiled favorites to +insult all her neighbors with impunity, and rule with a rod of iron over +the whole house. Anything that is not in the least like her own home and +ways of living will be a blessed relief and change to Mrs. Simmons. Your +clean, quiet house, your delicate cookery, your cheerful morning tasks, +if you will let her follow you about, and sit and talk with you while +you are at your work, will all seem a pleasant contrast to her own life. +Of course, if it came to the case of offering to change lots in life, +she would not do it; but very likely she <i>thinks</i> she would, and sighs +over and pities herself, and thinks sentimentally how fortunate you are, +how snugly and securely you live, and wishes she were as untrammelled +and independent as you. And she is more than half right; for, with her +helpless habits, her utter ignorance of the simplest facts concerning +the reciprocal relations of milk, eggs, butter, saleratus, soda, and +yeast, she is completely the victim and slave of the person she pretends +to rule.</p> + +<p>Only imagine some of the frequent scenes and rehearsals in her family. +After many trials, she at last engages a seamstress who promises to +prove a perfect treasure,—neat, dapper, nimble, skilful, and spirited. +The very soul of Mrs. Simmons rejoices in heaven. Illusive bliss! The +new-comer proves to be no favorite with Madam Cook, and the domestic +fates evolve the catastrophe, as follows. First, low murmur of distant +thunder in the kitchen; then a day or two of sulky silence, in which the +atmosphere seems heavy with an approaching storm. At last comes the +climax. The parlor-door flies open during breakfast. Enter seamstress, +in tears, followed by Mrs. Cook with a face swollen and red with wrath, +who tersely introduces the subject-matter of the drama in a voice +trembling with rage.</p> + +<p>"Would you be plased, Ma'am, to suit yersilf with another cook? Me week +will be up next Tuesday, and I want to be going."</p> + +<p>"Why, Bridget, what's the matter?"</p> + +<p>"Matter enough, Ma'am! I niver could live with them Cork girls in a +house, nor I won't; them as likes the Cork girls is welcome for all me; +but it's not for the likes of me to live with them, and she been in the +kitchen a-upsettin' of me gravies with her flat-irons and things."</p> + +<p>Here bursts in the seamstress with a whirlwind of denial, and the +altercation wages fast and furious, and poor, little, delicate Mrs. +Simmons stands like a kitten in a thunder-storm in the midst of a +regular Irish row.</p> + +<p>Cook, of course, is sure of her victory. She knows that a great dinner +is to come off Wednesday, and that her mistress has not the smallest +idea how to manage it, and that, therefore, whatever happens, she must +be conciliated.</p> + +<p>Swelling with secret indignation at the tyrant, poor Mrs. Simmons +dismisses her seamstress with longing looks. She suited her mistress +exactly, but she didn't suit cook!</p> + +<p>Now, if Mrs. Simmons had been brought up in early life with the +experience that <i>you</i> have, she would be mistress in her own house. She +would quietly say to Madam Cook, "If my family-arrangements do not suit +you, you can leave. I can see to the dinner myself." And she <i>could</i> do +it. Her well-trained muscles would not break down under a little extra +work; her skill, adroitness, and perfect familiarity with everything +that is to be done would enable her at once to make cooks of any bright +girls of good capacity who might still be in her establishment; and, +above all, she would feel herself mistress in her own house. This is +what would come of an experience in doing her own work as you do. She +who can at once put her own trained hand to the machine in any spot +where a hand is needed never comes to be the slave of a coarse, vulgar +Irish-woman.</p> + +<p>So, also, in forming a judgment of what is to be expected of servants in +a given time, and what ought to be expected of a given amount of +provisions, poor Mrs. Simmons is absolutely at sea. If even for one six +months in her life she had been a practical cook, and had really had the +charge of the larder, she would not now be haunted, as she constantly +is, by an indefinite apprehension of an immense wastefulness, perhaps of +the disappearance of provisions through secret channels of relationship +and favoritism. She certainly could not be made to believe in the +absolute necessity of so many pounds of sugar, quarts of milk, and +dozens of eggs, not to mention spices and wine, as are daily required +for the accomplishment of Madam Cook's purposes. But though now she does +suspect and apprehend, she cannot speak with certainty. She cannot say, +"<i>I</i> have made these things. I know exactly what they require. I have +done this and that myself, and know it can be done, and done well, in a +certain time." It is said that women who have been accustomed to doing +their own work become hard mistresses. They are certainly more sure of +the ground they stand on,—they are less open to imposition,—they can +speak and act in their own houses more as those "having authority," and +therefore are less afraid to exact what is justly their due, and less +willing to endure impertinence and unfaithfulness. Their general error +lies in expecting that any servant ever will do as well for them as they +will do for themselves, and that an untrained, undisciplined human being +ever <i>can</i> do house-work, or any other work, with the neatness and +perfection that a person of trained intelligence can. It has been +remarked in our armies that the men of cultivation, though bred in +delicate and refined spheres, can bear up under the hardships of +camp-life better and longer than rough laborers. The reason is, that an +educated mind knows how to use and save its body, to work it and spare +it, as an uneducated mind cannot; and so the college-bred youth brings +himself safely through fatigues which kill the unreflective laborer. +Cultivated, intelligent women, who are brought up to do the work of +their own families, are labor-saving institutions. They make the head +save the wear of the muscles. By forethought, contrivance, system, and +arrangement, they lessen the amount to be done, and do it with less +expense of time and strength than others. The old New-England motto, +<i>Get your work done up in the forenoon</i>, applied to an amount of work +which would keep a common Irish servant toiling from daylight to sunset.</p> + +<p>A lady living in one of our obscure New-England towns, where there were +no servants to be hired, at last by sending to a distant city succeeded +in procuring a raw Irish maid-of-all-work, a creature of immense bone +and muscle, but of heavy, unawakened brain. In one fortnight she +established such a reign of Chaos and old Night in the kitchen and +through the house, that her mistress, a delicate woman, incumbered with +the care of young children, began seriously to think that she made more +work each day than she performed, and dismissed her. What was now to be +done? Fortunately, the daughter of a neighboring farmer was going to be +married in six months, and wanted a little ready money for her +<i>trousseau</i>. The lady was informed that Miss So-and-so would come to +her, not as a servant, but as hired "help." She was fain to accept any +help with gladness. Forthwith came into the family-circle a tall, +well-dressed young person, grave, unobtrusive, self-respecting, yet not +in the least presuming, who sat at the family-table and observed all its +decorums with the modest self-possession of a lady. The new-comer took a +survey of the labors of a family of ten members, including four or five +young children, and, looking, seemed at once to throw them into system, +matured her plans, arranged her hours of washing, ironing, baking, +cleaning, rose early, moved deftly, and in a single day the slatternly +and littered kitchen assumed that neat, orderly appearance that so often +strikes one in New-England farm-houses. The work seemed to be all gone. +Everything was nicely washed, brightened, put in place, and stayed in +place; the floors, when cleaned, remained clean; the work was always +done, and not doing; and every afternoon the young lady sat neatly +dressed in her own apartment, either quietly writing letters to her +betrothed, or sewing on her bridal outfit. Such is the result of +employing those who have been brought up to do their own work. That +tall, fine-looking girl, for aught we know, may yet be mistress of a +fine house on Fifth Avenue; and if she is, she will, we fear, prove +rather an exacting mistress to Irish Biddy and Bridget; but <i>she</i> will +never be threatened by her cook and chambermaid, after the first one or +two have tried the experiment.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Having written thus far on my article, I laid it aside till evening, +when, as usual, I was saluted by the inquiry, "Has papa been writing +anything to-day?" and then followed loud petitions to hear it; and so I +read as far, reader, as you have.</p> + +<p>"Well, papa," said Jennie, "what are you meaning to make out there? Do +you really think it would be best for us all to try to go back to that +old style of living you describe? After all, you have shown only the +dark side of an establishment with servants, and the bright side of the +other way of living. Mamma does not have such trouble with her servants; +matters have always gone smoothly in our family; and if we are not such +wonderful girls as those you describe, yet we may make pretty good +housekeepers on the modern system, after all."</p> + +<p>"You don't know all the troubles your mamma has had in your day," said +my wife. "I have often, in the course of my family-history, seen the day +when I have heartily wished for the strength and ability to manage my +household matters as my grandmother of notable memory managed hers. But +I fear that those remarkable women of the olden times are like the +ancient painted glass,—the art of making them is lost; my mother was +less than her mother, and I am less than my mother."</p> + +<p>"And Marianne and I come out entirely at the little end of the horn," +said Jennie, laughing; "yet I wash the breakfast-cups and dust the +parlors, and have always fancied myself a notable housekeeper."</p> + +<p>"It is just as I told you," I said. "Human nature is always the same. +Nobody ever is or does more than circumstances force him to be and do. +Those remarkable women of old were made by circumstances. There were, +comparatively speaking, no servants to be had, and so children were +trained to habits of industry and mechanical adroitness from the cradle, +and every household process was reduced to the very minimum of labor. +Every step required in a process was counted, every movement calculated; +and she who took ten steps, when one would do, lost her reputation for +'faculty.' Certainly such an early drill was of use in developing the +health and the bodily powers, as well as in giving precision to the +practical mental faculties. All household economies were arranged with +equal niceness in those thoughtful minds. A trained housekeeper knew +just how many sticks of hickory of a certain size were required to heat +her oven, and how many of each different kind of wood. She knew by a +sort of intuition just what kinds of food would yield the most palatable +nutriment with the least outlay of accessories in cooking. She knew to a +minute the time when each article must go into and be withdrawn from her +oven; and if she could only lie in her chamber and direct, she could +guide an intelligent child through the processes with mathematical +certainty. It is impossible, however, that anything but early training +and long experience can produce these results, and it is earnestly to be +wished that the grandmothers of New England had only written down their +experiences for our children; they would have been a mine of maxims and +traditions, better than any other traditions of the elders which we know +of."</p> + +<p>"One thing I know," said Marianne,—"and that is, I wish I had been +brought up so, and knew all that I should, and had all the strength and +adroitness that those women had. I should not dread to begin +housekeeping, as I now do. I should feel myself independent. I should +feel that I knew how to direct my servants, and what it was reasonable +and proper to expect of them; and then, as you say, I shouldn't be +dependent on all their whims and caprices of temper. I dread those +household storms, of all things."</p> + +<p>Silently pondering these anxieties of the young expectant housekeeper, I +resumed my pen, and concluded my paper as follows.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>In this country, our democratic institutions have removed the +superincumbent pressure which in the Old World confines the servants to +a regular orbit. They come here feeling that this is somehow a land of +liberty, and with very dim and confused notions of what liberty is. They +are for the most part the raw, untrained Irish peasantry, and the wonder +is, that, with all the unreasoning heats and prejudices of the Celtic +blood, all the necessary ignorance and rawness, there should be the +measure of comfort and success there is in our domestic arrangements. +But, so long as things are so, there will be constant changes and +interruptions in every domestic establishment, and constantly recurring +interregnums when the mistress must put her own hand to the work, +whether the hand be a trained or an untrained one. As matters now are, +the young housekeeper takes life at the hardest. She has very little +strength,—no experience to teach her how to save her strength. She +knows nothing experimentally of the simplest processes necessary to keep +her family comfortably fed and clothed; and she has a way of looking at +all these things which makes them particularly hard and distasteful to +her. She does not escape being obliged to do house-work at intervals, +but she does it in a weak, blundering, confused way, that makes it twice +as hard and disagreeable as it need be.</p> + +<p>Now what I have to say is, that, if every young woman learned to do +house-work and cultivated her practical faculties in early life, she +would, in the first place, be much more likely to keep her servants, +and, in the second place, if she lost them temporarily, would avoid all +that wear and tear of the nervous system which comes from constant +ill-success in those departments on which family health and temper +mainly depend. This is one of the peculiarities of our American life +which require a peculiar training. Why not face it sensibly?</p> + +<p>The second thing I have to say is, that our land is now full of +motorpathic institutions to which women are sent at great expense to +have hired operators stretch and exercise their inactive muscles. They +lie for hours to have their feet twigged, their arms flexed, and all the +different muscles of the body worked for them, because they are so +flaccid and torpid that the powers of life do not go on. Would it not be +quite as cheerful and less expensive a process, if young girls from +early life developed the muscles in sweeping, dusting, ironing, rubbing +furniture, and all the multiplied domestic processes which our +grandmothers knew of? A woman who did all these, and diversified the +intervals with spinning on the great and little wheel, never came to +need the gymnastics of Dio Lewis or of the Swedish motorpathist, which +really are a necessity now. Does it not seem poor economy to pay +servants for letting our muscles grow feeble, and then to pay operators +to exercise them for us? I will venture to say that our grandmothers in +a week went over every movement that any gymnast has invented, and went +over them to some productive purpose too.</p> + +<p>Lastly, my paper will not have been in vain, if those ladies who have +learned and practise the invaluable accomplishment of doing their own +work will know their own happiness and dignity, and properly value their +great acquisition, even though it may have been forced upon them by +circumstances.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="SHAKSPEARE" id="SHAKSPEARE"></a>SHAKSPEARE.</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">April</span> 23, 1864.</h3> + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Who claims our Shakspeare from that realm unknown,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Beyond the storm-vexed islands of the deep,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where Genoa's deckless caravels were blown?<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Her twofold Saint's-day let our England keep;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Shall warring aliens share her holy task?"<br /></span> +<span class="i6">The Old-World echoes ask.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">O land of Shakspeare! ours with all thy past,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Till these last years that make the sea so wide,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Think not the jar of battle's trumpet-blast<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Has dulled our aching sense to joyous pride<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In every noble word thy sons bequeathed<br /></span> +<span class="i6">The air our fathers breathed!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">War-wasted, haggard, panting from the strife,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">We turn to other days and far-off lands,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Live o'er in dreams the Poet's faded life,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Come with fresh lilies in our fevered hands<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To wreathe his bust, and scatter purple flowers,—<br /></span> +<span class="i6">Not his the need, but ours!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">We call those poets who are first to mark<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Through earth's dull mist the coming of the dawn,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Who see in twilight's gloom the first pale spark,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">While others only note that day is gone;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For him the Lord of light the curtain rent<br /></span> +<span class="i6">That veils the firmament.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The greatest for its greatness is half known,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Stretching beyond our narrow quadrant-lines,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As in that world of Nature all outgrown<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Where Calaveras lifts his awful pines,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And cast from Mariposa's mountain-wall<br /></span> +<span class="i6">Nevada's cataracts fall.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Yet heaven's remotest orb is partly ours,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Throbbing its radiance like a beating heart;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In the wide compass of angelic powers<br /></span> +<span class="i2">The instinct of the blindworm has its part;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">So in God's kingliest creature we behold<br /></span> +<span class="i6">The flower our buds infold.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">With no vain praise we mock the stone-carved name<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Stamped once on dust that moved with pulse and breath,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As thinking to enlarge that amplest fame<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Whose undimmed glories gild the night of death:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">We praise not star or sun; in these we see<br /></span> +<span class="i6">Thee, Father, only Thee!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Thy gifts are beauty, wisdom, power, and love:<br /></span> +<span class="i2">We read, we reverence on this human soul,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Earth's clearest mirror of the light above,—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Plain as the record on Thy prophet's scroll,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When o'er his page the effluent splendors poured,<br /></span> +<span class="i6">Thine own, "Thus saith the Lord!"<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">This player was a prophet from on high,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Thine own elected. Statesman, poet, sage,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For him Thy sovereign pleasure passed them by,—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Sidney's fair youth, and Raleigh's ripened age,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Spenser's chaste soul, and his imperial mind<br /></span> +<span class="i6">Who taught and shamed mankind.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Therefore we bid our hearts' <i>Te Deum</i> rise,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Nor fear to make Thy worship less divine,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And hear the shouted choral shake the skies,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Counting all glory, power, and wisdom Thine,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For Thy great gift Thy greater name adore,<br /></span> +<span class="i5">And praise Thee evermore!<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">In this dread hour of Nature's utmost need,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Thanks for these unstained drops of freshening dew!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Oh, while our martyrs fall, our heroes bleed,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Keep us to every sweet remembrance true,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Till from this blood-red sunset springs new-born<br /></span> +<span class="i6">Our Nation's second morn!<br /></span> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="HOW_TO_USE_VICTORY" id="HOW_TO_USE_VICTORY"></a>HOW TO USE VICTORY.</h2> + + +<p>The policy of the nation, since the war began, has been eminently the +Anglo-Saxon policy. That is to say, we have not adapted our actions to +any preconceived theory, nor to any central idea. From the President +downward, every one has done as well as he could in every single day, +doubtful, and perhaps indifferent, as to what he should do the next day. +This is the method dear to the Anglo-Saxon mind. The English writers +acknowledge this; they call it the "practical system," and make an +especial boast that it is the method of their theology, their +philosophy, their physical science, their manufactures, and their trade. +In the language of philosophy, it directs us "to do the duty that comes +next us"; in a figure drawn from the card-table, it bids us "follow our +hand." The only branch of the Keltic race which adopts it expresses it +in the warlike direction, "When you see a head, hit it."</p> + +<p>We have no objection to make to this so-called practical system in the +present case, if it only be broadly and generously adopted. If it reduce +us to a war of posts, to hand-to-mouth finance, and to that wretched +bureau-administration which thinks the day's work is done when the day's +letters have been opened, docketed, and answered, it becomes, it is +true, a very unpractical system, and soon reduces a great state to be a +very little one. But if the men who direct any country will, in good +faith, enlarge their view every day, from their impressions of yesterday +to the new realities of to-day,—if they will rise at once to the new +demands of to-day, and meet those demands under the new light of +to-day,—all the better is it, undoubtedly, if they are not hampered by +traditionary theories, if they are even indifferent as to the +consistency of their record, and are, thus, as able as they are willing +to work out God's present will with all their power. For it must be that +the present light of noonday will guide us better at noonday than any +prophecies which we could make at midnight or at dawn.</p> + +<p>The country, at this moment, demands this broad and generous use of its +great present advantages. In three years of sacrifice we have won +extraordinary victories. We have driven back the beach-line of rebellion +so that its territory is now two islands, both together of not half the +size of the continent which it boasted when it began. We have seen such +demonstrations of loyalty and the love of liberty that we dare say that +this is to be one free nation, as we never dared say it before the war +began. We are on the edge, as we firmly believe, of yet greater +victories, both in the field and in the conscience of the nation. The +especial demand, then, made on our statesmen, and on that intelligent +people which, as it appears, leads the statesmen, instead of being led +by them, is, "How shall we use our victories?" We have no longer the +right to say that the difficult questions will settle themselves. We +must not say that Providence will take care of them. We must not say +that we are trying experiments. The time for all this has gone by. We +have won victories. We are going to win more. We must show we know how +to use them.</p> + +<p>As our armies advance, for instance, very considerable regions of +territory come, for the time, under the military government of the +United States. If we painted a map of the country, giving to the Loyal +States each its individual chosen color, and to the Rebel States their +favorite Red or Black, we should find that the latter were surrounded by +a strip of that circumambient and eternal Blue which indicates the love +and the strength of the National Government. The strip is here broad, +and there narrow. It is broad in Tennessee, Arkansas, and Louisiana. It +stretches up in a narrow line along the Sea Islands and the Atlantic +coast. What do we mean to do with this strip, while it is in the special +charge of the nation? Do we mean to leave it to the chapter of +accidents, as we have done? A few charitable organizations have kept the +Sea Islands along, so that they are a range of flourishing plantations, +as they used to be. A masterly inactivity, on the other hand, leaves the +northern counties of Virginia, this summer, within the very sight of the +Capitol, to be the desert and disgrace which they were when they were +the scenes of actual war. A handful of banditti rides through them when +it chooses, and even insults the communications of our largest army. The +people of that State are permitted to point at this desolation, and to +say that such are the consequences of Federal victories. For another +instance, take the "Four-Million question." These four million negroes, +from whose position the war has sprung, are now almost all set free, in +law. A very large number of them—possibly a quarter part of them—are +free in fact. One hundred and thirty thousand of them are in the +national army. With regard to these men the question is not, "What are +you going to do with them when the war is done?" but, "What will you do +with them to-day and to-morrow?" Your duty is to use victory in the +moment of victory. You are not to wait for its last ramification before +you lead in peace and plenty, which ought to follow close in its first +footsteps.</p> + +<p>To an observing and sensitive nation it seems as if all these questions, +and many others like them, were not yet fully regarded. Yet they are now +the questions of the hour, because they are a part of the great central +question, "How will you break down the armed power of the Rebel States?" +To maintain the conquered belt between us and our "wayward sisters" as a +land of plenty, and not as a desert,—to establish on system the blacks +whose masters desert them, or who take refuge within our lines,—and +also to maintain in that border-strip a resident peasantry, armed and +loyal,—these are not matters of sentiment, which may be postponed to a +more convenient season, but they are essential to the stiff, steady, and +successful prosecution of our campaigns. It is not, therefore, simply +for charity Boards of Education to discuss such subjects. It is for the +Government to determine its policy, and for the people, who make that +Government, to compel it so to determine. The Government may not shake +off questions of confiscated lands, pay of negro troops, superintendence +of fugitives, and the like, as if they were the unimportant details of a +halcyon future. Because this is the moment of impending victory, because +that victory should be used on the instant, the Government is bound to +attend to such provisions now. It is said, that, when General McClellan +landed below Yorktown, now two years ago, the Washington Post-Office had +made the complete arrangements for resuming the mail-service to +Richmond. Undoubtedly the Post-Office Department was right in such +foresight. At the present moment, it is equally right for the Government +to be prepared for the immediate use of the victories for which, as we +write, we are all hoping.</p> + +<p>The experiments which we have had to try, in the care and treatment of +liberated blacks, have been tried under very different conditions. When +the masters on the Sea Islands escaped from their slaves, leaving but +one white man behind them, in the midst of fifteen thousand negroes, +those negroes were, in general, in their old familiar homes. They had, +indeed, trusted themselves to the tender mercies of the "Yankees" +because they would not abandon home. The islands on which they lived +were easily protected, and, thanks to the generous foresight of those +who early had the charge of them, a body of humane and intelligent +superintendents soon appeared, to watch over all their interests. In the +District of Columbia, on the other hand, the blacks whom the war first +liberated had themselves fled from their masters. They found themselves +in cities where every condition of life was different from their old +home. It was hardly to be expected that in one of these cases the +results should be as cheerful or as favorable as in the other. Nor was +it to be supposed that the policy to be pursued, in two such cases, +should be in outward form the same.</p> + +<p>But the country has, on the whole, in the various different conditions +of these questions, had the advantage of great administrative ability. +General Butler, General Banks, and General Saxton are three men who may +well be satisfied with their military record, if it shall bear the test +of time as well as their administrative successes in this department bid +fair to do. We can be reconciled, in a measure, to gross failure and +want of system in other places, when we observe the successes which have +been wrought out for the blacks, in different ways, under the policy of +these three statesmen. For we believe that in that policy the principles +are to be found by which the Government ought at once to direct all its +policy in the use of its victories. We believe those principles are most +adequately stated in General Butler's General Order No. 46, issued at +Fort Monroe on the fifth of December last. For General Banks has had his +hands tied, from the beginning, by the unfortunate exemption from the +Emancipation Proclamation of the first two districts in Louisiana. +Considering the difficulties by which he was thus entangled, we have +never seen but he used to the best his opportunities. General Saxton's +island-district has been so small, and in a measure so peculiar, that it +may be urged that the result learned there would not be applicable on +the mainland, on a large scale. But General Butler has had all the +negroes of the sea-board of Virginia and North Carolina to look after. +He has given us a census of them,—and we have already official returns +of their <i>status</i>. There seems no reason why what has been done there +may not be done anywhere.</p> + +<p>In General Butler's department, there were, in the beginning of April, +sixty-eight thousand eight hundred and forty-seven negroes. Of these, +eight thousand three hundred and forty-four were soldiers, who had +voluntarily enlisted into the service of the United States. These men +enlisted with no bounty but what the General so well named as the "great +boon awarded to each of them, the result of the war,—Freedom for +himself and his race forever." They enlisted, knowing that at that time +the Government promised them but ten dollars a month. In view of these +facts, we consider the proportion of soldiers, nearly one in eight, +extraordinary,—though we are aware that the number includes many who +had not lived in those counties, who came into our lines with the +purpose of enlisting. These simple figures involve the first feature of +the true policy in the "Four-Million question." The war offers the +negroes this priceless bounty. Let them fight for it. Let us enlist +them, to the last man we can persuade to serve.</p> + +<p>"If you do that," says Brazen-Face, "you have left on your hands a horde +of starving imbeciles, women, and orphans, to support, from whom you +have cruelly separated their able-bodied men." No, Brazen-Face, we have +no such thing. In the month of March the Government had to supply +rations in the district we have named to only seven thousand eight +hundred and fifty persons who were members of the families of these +soldiers,—the cost being about one dollar a month for each of them. Now +the State of Massachusetts, dear Brazen-Face, supplies "State-aid" to +the families of its soldiers; and for this support, in this very city of +yours, it pays on the average five times as much in proportion as the +United States has to pay for the families of these colored soldiers. +Nay, you may even take all the persons relieved by Government in General +Butler's district,—the number is sixteen thousand seven hundred and +sixteen,—count them all as the families of soldiers, which not one-half +of them are, and the whole support which they all receive from +Government is not half as much as the families of the same number of +soldiers are costing the State of Massachusetts. So much for the expense +of this system. There is no money-bounty, and the "family-aid" is but +one-fifth of that we pay in the case of our own brothers. The figures in +General Saxton's district are as gratifying. We have not the Louisiana +statistics at hand. And we have not learned that anybody has attempted +any statistics in the District of Columbia, or on the Mississippi River. +But this illustration, in two districts where the enlistment of colored +troops has been pushed to the very edge of its development, is enough to +make out another point in the policy of victory, which is, that the +colored soldier is the cheapest soldier whom we have in our lines, +though we pay him, as of course we should do, full pay.</p> + +<p>How is this cheapness of administration gained? The answer is in the +second great principle which belongs to the policy of using our +victories. Change the homes of the people as little as possible. The +families of negroes in the Virginia district are put upon separate farms +as far as possible,—on land, and for crops, as nearly as possible, the +same as they were used to. These people are conservative. They are fond +of home. They are used to work; and they can take care of themselves. +Every inducement is given them, therefore, to establish themselves. +Farms of eight or ten acres each from abandoned property are allotted +them. Where the Government employs any of them, it employs them only at +the same rate as the soldier is paid,—so that, if the negro can earn +more than that, he does so, and is urged, as well as permitted to do +so. He is not bound to the soil, except by merely temporary agreement. +What follows is that he uses the gift of freedom to his own best +advantage. "Political freedom," says the philosophical General, "rightly +defined, is liberty to work." The negroes in his command show that they +understand the definition. And this is the reason why, as we have +explained, the "family-relief" costs but one-fifth what it does here in +Boston.</p> + +<p>"But," says Grunnio, at this point, "how will you protect your ten-acre +farms from invidious neighbors, from wandering guerrillas?" We will +advise them, dear grumbler, to protect themselves. That is one of the +responsibilities which freemen have to take as the price of freedom. In +the department of Norfolk, where seventeen thousand blacks are +supporting themselves on scattered farms, we believe not a pig has been +stolen nor a fence broken down on their little plantations by semi-loyal +neighbors, who had, perhaps, none too much sympathy, at the first, with +their prosperity. These amiable neighbors were taught, from the first, +that the rights of the colored farmers were just the same as their own, +and that they would be very apt to retaliate in kind for injuries. Of +such a system one result is that no guerrilla-warfare has yet been known +in the counties of Virginia where such a peasantry is establishing +itself. It is near our posts, it is true,—not nearer, however, than +some of the regions where Mosby has won his laurels. We believe that +this system deserves to be pressed much farther. We can see that the +farmers on such farms may have to be supplied in part with arms for +their defence. They may have to be taught to use them. Without providing +depots of supplies for an enemy, however, we believe there might be a +regular system of establishing the negro in his own home, on or near the +plantation where he was born, which would give us from the beginning the +advantages of a settled country, instead of a desert in the regions in +the rear of our lines.</p> + +<p>These three suggestions are enough to determine a general policy which +shall give us, in all instances, the immediate use of our victories. Let +us enlist all the able-bodied men we can from the negroes. Let us +establish the rest as near their old homes as we can,—not in +poor-houses or phalansteries, but on their own farms. Let us appoint for +each proper district a small staff of officers sufficient to see that +their rights are respected by their neighbors, and that they have means +to defend themselves against reckless or unorganized aggression. There +seems to be no need of sending them as fugitives to our rear. There +seems to be no need of leaving the country we pass a desert. There seems +to be no need of waiting a year or two before we find for them their +places. God has found for them their places. Let them stay where they +were born. We have made them freemen. Let them understand that they must +maintain their freedom.</p> + +<p>More simply stated, such a policy amounts merely to this: "Treat them as +you would treat white people."</p> + +<p>"What would you do with the blacks?" said a Commission of Inquiry to an +intelligent jurist who had made some very brilliant decisions at New +Orleans.</p> + +<p>"I would not do anything with them," was his very happy and suggestive +reply.</p> + +<p>He would let them alone. If we could free ourselves of the notion that +we must huddle them together, or that we must carry them to some strange +land,—in short, that they have no rights of home and fireside,—we +should find that we had a much smaller problem to deal with. Keep them +where you find them, unless they will go on and fight with you. Whether +they go or stay, let them understand that they are your friends and you +are theirs, and that they must defend themselves, if they expect you to +defend them.</p> + +<p>The education and the civilization will follow. "The church and the +school," as John Adams says, "belong with the town and the militia." The +statistics of General Butler's department begin to show that a larger +proportion of blacks are at school there than of whites. As we write +these words, we receive General Banks's Order No. 38, issued March 22, +providing for a board of education, and a tax upon property to establish +schools for black and for white children. We have no fears that such +results will be slow, if the enfranchised peasantry, one million or four +million, have the right to work on their own land, or to accept the +highest wage that offers,—if they find they are not arbitrarily removed +from their old homes,—and if the protection of those homes is, in the +first instance, intrusted to themselves.</p> + +<p>These are the first-fruits of freedom for them. For us they are the +legitimate use of victory. It only remains that we shall mildly, but +firmly, instruct all officers of the Government that it is time for some +policy to be adopted which shall involve such uses of victory. The +country will be encouraged, the moment it sees that the freedmen are +finding their proper places in the new civilization. The country expects +its rulers not to wait for chapters of accidents or for volunteer boards +to work out such policy, but themselves to provide the system of +administration, and the intelligent men who shall promptly and skilfully +avail themselves of every victory.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="REVIEWS_AND_LITERARY_NOTICES" id="REVIEWS_AND_LITERARY_NOTICES"></a>REVIEWS AND LITERARY NOTICES.</h2> + + +<p><i>History of the Romans under the Empire.</i> By <span class="smcap">Charles Merivale</span>, +B. D., late Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. From the Fourth +London Edition. With a Copious Analytical Index. New York: D. Appleton & +Co. 8vo. Vols. I. & II.</p> + +<p>People of the last century had a very easy time with their Roman +history, and any gentleman could pick up enough of it "in course of his +morning's reading" to answer the demands of a lifetime. Men read and +believed. They had no more doubt of the existence of Romulus and Remus +than of the existence of Fairfax and Cromwell. As to the story of those +dropped children being nursed by a she-wolf, had it not been established +that wolves did sometimes suckle humanity's young? and why should it be +supposed that no lupine nursery had ever existed at the foot of the +Palatine Hill? After swallowing the wolf-story, everything else was +easy; and the history of the Roman Kings was as gravely received as the +history of the Roman Emperors. The Brutus who upset the Tarquins was as +much an historical character as the Brutus who assassinated Cæsar and +killed himself. Tullia had lived and sinned, just like Messallina. The +Horatii were of flesh and blood, like the Triumvirs. So was it with +regard to the Empire. The same short work that was made with Regal Rome +and the early Republican period was applied to the Imperial age. Julius +Cæsar was the destroyer of Roman liberty, and Pompeius was the unlucky +champion of his country's constitution. With few exceptions, the +Emperors were the greatest moral monsters that ever had lived and +reigned. It is true that two or three critical writers had so handled +historical subjects as to create some doubts as to the exact correctness +of the popular view of Roman history; but those doubts were monopolized +by a few scholars, and by no means tended to shake the faith which even +the educated classes had in the vulgar view of the actions of the mighty +conquering race of antiquity.</p> + +<p>But all has been changed. For half a century, learned men have been +busily employed in pulling down the edifice of Roman history, until they +have unsettled everybody's faith in that history. No one now pretends, +seriously, to believe anything that is told of the Romans farther back +than the time of Pyrrhus. Clouds and darkness rest over the earlier +centuries, and defy penetration. What Sir Thomas Browne says of Egypt is +not inapplicable to early Rome. History mumbleth something to the +inquirer, "but what it is he heareth not." Not even the story of Curtius +now finds believers. He must have been a contractor, who made an +enormous fortune at the time of the secession of the plebs, and ruined +himself by the operation. So far as relates to early Roman history, want +of faith is very natural; for what documents have we to go upon in +making up an opinion concerning it? None to speak of. But it is strange, +at the first thought, that there should be any difficulty in making up a +judgment concerning the history of the last century or two of the +Republic, and of the Imperial period. Of those times much that was then +written still survives, and many of the works that were familiar to the +Romans are even more familiar to the moderns. Yet there is a wide +difference of sentiment as to the character of the Roman Revolution, and +the objects and the actions of the eminent men who figured in that +Revolution are yet in dispute; and the contention is almost as fierce, +at times, as it was in the days of Pharsalia and Philippi. There are +Pompeians and Cæsarians now, as there were nineteen centuries ago, only +that the pen with them is indeed mightier than the sword. Cæsar's case +has been reviewed, and the current of opinion is now setting strongly in +his favor. Instead of being looked upon as a mere vulgar usurper, who +differed from other usurpers only in having a greater stage, and talents +proportioned to that stage, he is held up as the man of his times, and +as the only man who could fulfil the demands of the crisis that existed +after the death of Sulla. According to Mr. Merivale, who is a very +moderate Cæsarian, Cæsar was "the true captain and lawgiver and prophet +of the age" in which he lived. When such an assertion can be made by an +English gentleman of well-balanced mind, we may form some idea of the +intensity of that Cæsarism which prevails in fiercer minds, and which is +intended to have an effect on contemporary rule. For the controversy +which exists relative to the merits of Romans "dead, and turned to +clay," is not merely critical and scholastic, but is enlivened by its +direct bearing upon living men and contending parties. Cæsarism means +Napoleonism. The Bonaparte family is the Julian family of to-day. +Napoleon I. stood for the great Julius, and Napoleon III. is the modern +(and very Gallic) Cæsar Augustus, the avenger of his ill-used uncle, and +the crusher of the Junii and the Crassi, and all the rest of the +aristocrats, who overthrew him, and caused his early death. It is not +necessary to point out the utter absurdity of this attempt to justify +modern despotism by referring to the action of men who lived and acted +in the greatest of ancient revolutions; and those men who admire Julius +Cæsar, but who are not disposed to see in his conduct a justification of +the conduct of living men, object to the French Imperial view of his +career. Mommsen, whose admiration of Cæsar is as ardent as his knowledge +of Roman history is great, speaks with well-deserved scorn of the +efforts that are made to defend contemporary usurpation by +misrepresentation of the history of antiquity. One of his remarks is +curious, read in connection with that history which daily appears in our +journals. Writing before our civil war began, he declared, that, if ever +the slaveholding aristocracy of the Southern States of America should +bring matters to such a pass as their counterparts in the Rome of Sulla, +Cæsarism would be pronounced legitimate there also by the spirit of +history,—an observation that derived new interest from the report that +General Lee was to be made Dictator of the Confederacy, and Mr. Davis +allowed to go into that retirement which is so much admired and so +little sought by all politicians. Mommsen, after the remark above +quoted, proceeds to say, that, whenever Cæsarism "appears under other +social conditions, it is at once a usurpation and a caricature. History, +however, will not consent to curtail the honor due to the true Cæsar, +because her decision, in the presence of false Cæsars, may give occasion +to simplicity to play the fool and to villany to play the rogue. She, +too, is a Bible, and if she can as little prevent herself from being +misunderstood by the fool and quoted by the Devil, she ought as little +to be prejudiced by either." Strong words, but very natural as coming +from a learned German who finds his own theory turned to account by the +supporters of a house which Germany once helped to overthrow, and which +she would gladly aid in overthrowing again. Perhaps Dr. Mommsen will +soon have an opportunity to speak more at length of French Cæsarism, for +the first two volumes of Napoleon III.'s "Life of Julius Cæsar" are +announced as nearly ready for publication, and their appearance cannot +fail to be the signal for a battle royal, as few scholars, we presume, +will be content to take historical law from an Emperor. The modern +master of forty legions will not be as fortunate as Hadrian in finding +philosophers disinclined to question his authority in letters; and he +may fare even worse at their hands than he fared at those of Mr. +Kinglake. The republic of letters is not to be mastered by a <i>coup +d'état</i>.</p> + +<p>The opponents of Cæsarism have not been silent, and it would be neither +uninteresting nor unprofitable, did time permit, to show how well they +have disposed of most of the arguments of their foes. The question is +not the old one, whether the party of Cæsar or that of Pompeius was the +better one, for at bottom the two were very much the same, the struggle +being for supremacy over the whole Roman dominion; and it is certain +that there would have been no essential change of political procedure, +had the decision at Pharsalia been reversed. On that field Cæsar was the +nominal champion of the liberal faction, and Pompeius was the nominal +champion of the <i>optimates</i>. Had Cæsar lost the day, the plebeian +Pompeian house would have furnished an imperial line, instead of that +line proceeding from the patrician Julii. Pompeius would have been as +little inclined to abandon the fruits of his victory to the aristocrats +as Cæsar showed himself to set up the rule of the Forum-populace, to +whose support he owed so much. It was to free himself from the weight of +his equals that Pompeius selected the East for the seat of war, when +there were so many strong military reasons why he should have proceeded +to the West, to Romanized Spain, where he had veteran legions that might +under his lead have been found the equals of Cæsar's small, but most +efficient army. He wished to get out of the Republican atmosphere, and +into a country where "the one-man power" was the recognized idea of +rule. He acted as a politician, not as a soldier, when he sailed from +Brundisium to the East, and the nobility were not blind to the fact, and +were not long in getting their revenge; for it was through their +political influence that Pompeius was forced to deliver battle at +Pharsalia, when there were strong military reasons for refusing to +fight. That they were involved in their chief's fall was only in +accordance with the usual course of things, there being nothing to equal +the besotted blindness of faction, as our current history but too +clearly proves.</p> + +<p>As between Cæsar and Pompeius, therefore, it is natural and just that +modern liberals should sympathize with the former, and contemplate his +triumph with pleasure, as he was by far the abler and better man, and +did not stain his success by bloodshed and plunder, things which the +Pompeians had promised themselves on a scale that would have astonished +Marius and Sulla, and which the Triumvirs never thought of equalling. +But when we are asked to behold as the result of the Roman Revolution +the deliverance of the provincials, and that as of purpose on the part +of the victor, we are inclined, in return, to ask of the Cæsarians +whether they think mankind are such fools as not to be able to read and +to understand the Imperial history. That Cæsar's success was beneficial +to Rome's subjects we do not dispute; but that the change he effected +was of the sweeping character claimed for it, or that Cæsar ever thought +of being the reformer that his admirers declare him to have been, are +things yet to be proved. The change that came from the substitution of +the Imperial polity for the Republican was the result of circumstances, +and it was of slow growth. Imperialism was an Octavian, not a Julian +creation, as any reader will be able to understand who goes through the +closing chapters of Mr. Merivale's third volume. The first Cæsar's +imperial career was too short, and too full of hard military work, to +admit of much being done by him of a political character; nor would it +have been possible for him, had he been a much younger man, and had he +lived for years, to accomplish what was effected by Augustus. The +terrible crisis that followed his death, and which lasted until the +decision of "the world's debate" at Actium gave a master to the Roman +world, prepared the way for the work that was done by his grand-nephew +and adopted son. The severe discipline which the Romans went through +between the day of Munda and that of Actium made them more acquiescent +in despotism than they would have been found, if Julius Cæsar's mild +sway had been continued through that interval. It has been said that the +Triumvirate converted Cæsar's sword into daggers, and the expression is +by no means too strong, as the world has never witnessed such another +reign of terror as followed from the union of Octavius, Antonius, and +Lepidus. If that union was formed for the purpose of reconciling men to +despotic rule, it must be allowed the merit that belongs to a perfect +invention. Without it the Roman Empire might never have had an +existence.</p> + +<p>Mr. Merivale's work may be considered as forming the text-book of +moderate Cæsarism. An Englishman, he cannot be an advocate of despotism; +but he sees that the time had come for a change, and that under Cæsar's +direction the change could be better made than under that of Pompeius or +his party. This is something very different from blind advocacy of +Cæsarism; and we can follow him through his clear and vigorous narrative +of the events of the Revolution with general acquiescence in his views. +His first and second volumes, which are immediately under consideration, +may be said to form the history of the career of Cæsar, and to present +the best account of that career which has been published in our +language. Introductory matter apart, his book opens with the appearance +of the first Emperor on the political stage, and the second volume +closes at the date of his assassination. His various political actions, +his achievements in Gaul and Britain, his marvellous exploits in Italy, +Spain, Macedonia, Greece, and Africa in the Civil War, and the character +of his legislation, are here told and set forth in a manner that comes +very near to perfection. There is a vividness in the narrative, and a +bringing-out of individual portraits, that make the work read like a +history of contemporary events. Nor does the author's just admiration of +Cæsar's extraordinary intellect and wonderful deeds cause him to be +unjust to the eminent men on the other side, though as a rule he deals +severely with those Romans whom the world admires, when treating of the +effects of their conduct. It has been objected to his history, that he +speaks with freedom of Cicero's conduct on many occasions, but we think +that he has not exceeded the bounds of just criticism when considering +the course of the Roman orator; and in his third volume, when summing up +his character, he employs the most generous and lofty language in +speaking of him. "After all the severe judgments we are compelled to +pass on his conduct," he says, "we must acknowledge that there remains a +residue of what is amiable in his character and noble in his teaching +beyond all ancient example. Cicero lived and died in faith. He has made +converts to the belief in virtue, and had disciples in the wisdom of +love. There have been dark periods in the history of man, when the +feeble ray of religious instruction paled before the torch of his +generous philanthropy. The praise which the great critic pronounced upon +his excellence in oratory may be justly extended to the qualities of his +heart; and even in our enlightened days it may be held no mean advance +in virtue to venerate the master of Roman philosophy." An intelligent +admirer of the most illustrious victim of the Triumvirate will consider +these words something far better than anything that can be found in +Middleton's "lying legend in honor of St. Tully." It may be observed +that admiration of Cicero and sympathy with the Roman aristocratical +party mostly go together; and yet the Roman aristocracy disliked Cicero, +and their writers treated him harshly, while he received kind treatment +from writers on the other side. Livy, whom Augustus himself called the +<i>Pompeian</i>, says of Cicero that "he bore none of his calamities as a man +should, except his death"; and "Lucan denounces his perverse impolicy." +Mr. Merivale, in a note, observes that it can hardly be accidental that +Tacitus, in his historical works, never mentions him, and adds, "The +most glowing tribute to Cicero's merits is the well-known passage in +Juvenal, and this is written in the spirit of a Marian, or +anti-oligarch." Velleius, who is generally spoken of as a sort of +literary flunky of the Cæsars, warmly panegyrizes Cicero. Had the +Pompeians triumphed, Cicero would not have found Italy the safe place +that it was to him under Cæsar's rule. He would have fared as badly at +their hands as he did at those of the Clodian rabble, and Pompeius might +have been to him what Antonius became after Cæsar's death.</p> + +<p>The portrait which Mr. Merivale has drawn of Cato does not meet with the +approval of those persons who admire old Roman virtue, of which Cato +was the impersonation; but they would find it difficult to show that he +has done that stubborn Stoic any injustice. Cato modelled himself on his +great-grandfather, Cato the Censor, a mean fellow, who sold his old +slaves in order that they might not become a charge upon him; but, as +our author remarks, the character of the Censor had been simple and true +to Nature, while that of his descendant was a system of elaborate, +though unconscious affectations. Cato behaved as absurdly as an American +would behave who should attempt to imitate his great-grandfather, the +old gentleman having died a loyal subject of George II. He was an honest +man, according to the Roman standard of honesty, which allowed a great +margin for the worst villany, provided it were done for the public good, +or what was supposed to be the public good. Like some politicians of our +time, he thought, that, when he had made it appear that a certain course +would be in accordance with ancient precedent, it should be +adopted,—making no allowance for the thousand disturbing causes which +the practical politician knows must be found on any path that may be +selected. Of all the men whose conduct brought about the Civil War, he +was the most virtuous, and he had the sagacity to oppose a resort to +arms; though how he succeeded in reconciling his aversion to war with +his support of a policy that led directly to its existence is one of the +mysteries of those days. The Pompeians found him a bore, and, had they +been victorious, would have saved him the trouble of killing himself, by +cutting off his head. Cato was one of the very few persons for whom +Cæsar felt a strong dislike; but he would not have harmed him, had he +got his own consent to live. From Cato he had experienced no such insult +as he had met with from M. Marcellus, and Marcellus received permission +to return to Rome; but Cato was of an unmalleable nature, and preferred, +to an ignoble silence in Italy, the noble silence of the grave. He died +"after the high Roman fashion." Suicide might be called the natural +death of a Roman leader of that age, and nothing but the violence of +enemies could dispute the title with it. Cato, Brutus, Cassius, +Antonius, and others fell by their own hands, or by the hands of persons +who acted by their orders. Cæsar, Pompeius, Cicero, and Crassus were +murdered. Nothing serves more to show how much Augustus differed from +most Romans of his century than the fact that he died in his bed at +extreme old age.</p> + +<p>That Mr. Merivale's Cæsarism does not prevent him from doing justice to +the opponents of Cæsar is proved by his portrait of Q. Lutatius Catulus, +the best leader of the <i>optimates</i>, and whom he pronounces to have been +the most moderate and disinterested of all the great men of his +day,—"indeed," he adds, "there is perhaps no character in the history +of the Commonwealth which commanded more general esteem, or obtained +more blameless distinction in political life." Yet Catulus was one of +those men with whom Cæsar came earliest in collision, each as the +representative of his party on vital points of difference. Our +historian's estimate of the life, labors, purposes, and character of +Pompeius is singularly correct, when we consider the temptation that he +has to underrate the man with whom Cæsar has stood in direct opposition +for nineteen centuries. There are few more emphatic passages in the +historical literature of our language than the account which is given in +Vol. II. ch. 18, of the last days and death of Pompeius, and which is +followed by a most judicious summing-up of his history and position as a +Roman leader. The historian's mind appears to be strongly affected by +the fate of the Pompeian house, as much so as was the imagination of the +Romans, which it seems to have haunted. This is in part due, we presume, +to the free use which he has made of Lucan's "Pharsalia," a work of +great value to those who would understand how the grand contest for +supremacy was viewed by the beaten party in after times. That poem is +the funeral wail of the Roman aristocracy, and it embodies the ideas and +traditions of the vanquished as they existed far down into the Imperial +age. It testifies to the original vitality of the aristocratical +faction, when we find a youthful contemporary of Nero dedicating his +genius to its service more than a century after the contest had been +decided on the battlefield. Whether Lucan was a patriot, or a selfish, +but disappointed courtier, we may feel certain that he never could have +written in the Pompeian spirit, if that spirit was not still dominant +in the minds of a large number of those men and women who formed the +most cultivated portion of Roman society. To a critical historian, such +as Mr. Merivale is, his poem must be very useful, though it would be +dangerous authority in unskilful hands.</p> + +<p>The leading merit of this history is that it supplies a want, and +supplies it effectually. Opening about sixty years before the beginning +of the Christian era, it terminates with the death of M. Aurelius +Antoninus, the point where Gibbon's work begins. We still need a work +beginning with the close of the Second Punic War and ending with the +death of Sulla, to connect Merivale with Arnold; but Mr. George Long is +about to supply the want, at least in part. The first two volumes, as we +have said, end at the date of Cæsar's death. The third and fourth +embrace the long period in which Augustus was the principal character, +and when the Roman Empire was formed. The fifth and sixth cover the +reigns of Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, Nero, Galba, Otho, and +Vitellius, and a portion of the reign of Vespasian. The seventh and last +volume is devoted to the first Flavian house,—Vespasian, Titus, and +Domitian,—and to those "five good Emperors"—Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, +and the Antonines—whose reigns are renowned in the history of monarchy +for their excellence. The materials of the work are, for the most part, +ample, and they have been well employed by the historian, a man of +extensive scholarship and of critical sagacity. Whether we subscribe to +his opinions or not, there can be no doubt of his having presented a +brilliant picture of the civilized world during about two and a half +eventful centuries. His is the only readable work that we have which +affords a continuous narrative of the history of Rome from the +appearance of Cæsar to the appearance of Commodus. Had it no other claim +upon us, this alone would justify us in recommending it to the closest +attention of all who desire to become acquainted with the facts that +make up the sum of Roman Imperial history. But it has other claims to +the consideration of readers. It makes Roman Imperial history thoroughly +intelligible, because events are philosophically treated, and their +bearing upon each other is rendered clear. It is written with vivacity, +force, and elegance. The style is the style of a gentleman, and the +sentiments are those of a Christian scholar. There is not a paragraph in +it which we could wish to see omitted, or essentially changed. It has +won for its author a place in the list of first-rate English historians, +and he is to be ranked with Macaulay, Grote, Hallam, Froude, Kinglake, +and others of those great writers who have done so much to illustrate +the English name and to advance the cause of humanity. Being familiar +with the work from the time that the first and second volumes were +published in England, in 1850, we have always desired that it should be +placed before the American reading public, confident that here its high +merits would secure for it a great and deserved popularity; and it is +with a sense of personal gratification that we have seen its publication +begun in New York, in a form that pleases the eye and gratifies good +taste.</p> + + +<p><i>Church Pastorals</i>: Hymns and Tunes for Public and Social Worship. +Collected and Arranged by <span class="smcap">Nehemiah Adams</span>, D. D. Boston: Ticknor +& Fields.</p> + +<p>The Rev. Dr. Bushnell, in August, 1852, delivered an address upon +"Religious Music" before the Beethoven Society of Yale College at the +opening of their new organ. In the peroration of this address, after +remarking upon the great assistance which Christian feeling receives in +the praise of God from "things without life giving sound," he goes on to +say,—"Let me suggest, also, in this connection, the very great +importance of the cultivation of religious music. Every family should be +trained in it; every Sunday or common school should have it as one of +its exercises. The Moravians have it as a kind of ordinance of grace for +the children: not without reason; for the powers of feeling and +imagination, and the sense of spiritual realities, are developed as much +by a training of childhood in religious music as by any other means. We +complain that choirs and organs take the music to themselves in our +churches, and that nothing is left to the people but to hear their +undistinguishable piping, which no one else can join or follow or +interpret. This must always be the complaint, till the congregations +themselves have exercise enough in singing to make the performance +theirs. As soon as they are able to throw in masses of sound that are +not barbarous, but Christian, and have a right enjoyment of their +feeling in it, they will have the tunes and the style of the exercise in +their own way,—not before.... The more sorrowful is it, that, in our +present defect of culture, there are so many voices which are more +incapable of the right distinctions of sound than things without life, +and which, when they attempt to sing, contribute more to the feeling of +woe than of praise."</p> + +<p>These words are as true to-day as when they were uttered twelve years +ago. Congregations which do not desire, or cannot afford, to resign the +musical portion of their service to professional singers, have something +more to do than to complain that the music is bad, or that they do not +like paid vocalists to troll out psalmody for them. They must go to work +and make their own music,—real music; for in these days unharmonious +sounds are almost as much out of place in the worship of God as an +uncatholic spirit and an heretical doctrine. The truth of this principle +many societies admit, and some, like the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher's, have +already put it into practice; the majority, however, wait for help to +free themselves from the customs which have kept them listeners when +they should be creators of vocal praise. The great obstacle to +congregational singing has been that the range of tunes already familiar +was very limited, while the providing a whole society with the +paraphernalia of music-books involved great expense to small purpose, +since a large portion of the tunes contained in these books are +unavailable for such use, being prepared with a view to the wants of +thoroughly trained singers; besides which, the reference to two books, +one for the words and the other for the music, is to many persons +perplexing, and to all inconvenient.</p> + +<p>"Church Pastorals" is an attempt to overcome this obstacle, and to +extend that help which is wanted. Other attempts have been made before, +but we regard this as the most successful, and consider that Dr. Adams +has prepared the best hymn-and-tune-book that has yet been issued, as we +propose briefly to illustrate by a recapitulation of his plan and his +manner of executing it.</p> + +<p>The hymns, which are nine hundred and eighty-eight in number, are +selected from the great mass of hymn-writers; although Watts and the +Wesleys furnish the foundation, and the materials of the superstructure +are largely drawn from Doddridge, Cowper, Toplady, Montgomery, and +others of kindred spirit, yet many beautiful things have been added from +the later religious poetry, which are no less fervid in feeling, while +less pronounced in doctrinal expression. These hymns are arranged in +judicious general divisions, which are again analytically separated into +special topics placed in logical sequence. After the hymns follow +thirty-eight doxologies, the editor having added to the short list of +common ones others which are fine enough to become standard at once.</p> + +<p>But it is less as a hymn- than as a tune-book that "Church Pastorals" +merits the notice of societies and individuals who are truly interested +in religious music, and we pass at once to our remarks upon this portion +of the work. The compiler, although holding himself personally +responsible for every selection, has availed himself of the advice and +assistance of persons professionally eminent in sacred music, one of +whom placed at his disposal a library which is unique in this country, +containing works of which few Americans have owned or seen duplicates, +such as rare "Choral-Bücher" of German cathedrals, and curious +collections of English ecclesiastical compositions, a partial list of +which is included in the volume, for the benefit of those who are +curious in such matters, or wish to know how far Dr. Adams's researches +have led him. To ascertain how many new melodies of the purest +devotional character have been derived from these rich sources a careful +examination is necessary, as also to comprehend with what skill the +harmony has been preserved or adapted, in order to secure the two +desirable results,—absolute freshness and beauty of treatment, and +practicability for ordinary use; but a casual inspection will give +sufficient indication of the spirit in which the work was undertaken, +and of the faithfulness with which it has been completed.</p> + +<p>While originality has been properly sought, the old, familiar elements +have not been neglected, and those simple songs which were upon the lips +of our parents and grandparents, and are yet dear to us from association +and intrinsic worth, are set in among the newer strains. The first +lines only are given of such as need merely to be recalled to the memory +of any who ever sing; but of others, equally prized, but less likely to +be remembered, the full score is given.</p> + +<p>The doxologies are for the most part set to noble chorals of such +strong, straightforward character that they cannot fail to become +friends and intimates at once. In them, as in all the tunes, the compass +of ordinary voices has been considered; and although nothing has been +left undone which could give beauty to melody or scholarly variousness +to harmony, the whole has been brought within the range of all singers.</p> + +<p>A novel and peculiar feature of the book is its "Stanzas to be sung +<i>impromptu</i>." Occasions often arise at social meetings or special +services, when it becomes desirable to sing a portion, or even the +whole, of some homely, hearty hymn, but, while "the spirit moves," the +opportunity is lost in the search for the words or the fit air, or in an +attempt to "set the tune." To meet this want, Dr. Adams has brought +together a variety of such stanzas, suited to all times and places, and, +coupled with each, the first line of a familiar melody, that the +propitious moment may be enjoyed and improved.</p> + +<p>It will of course be understood that the tune appointed for each hymn is +printed directly above it, all four parts being given at length, the two +trebles printed in a not unusual way upon one staff, the tenor and bass +having each separate lines. Therefore no difficulty in singing the hymns +can be felt even by the inexperienced, especially as one stanza is +printed with the notes to show the exact adaptation.</p> + +<p>In fine, "Church Pastorals" is a work worthy of an extended circulation +and capable of great usefulness. It can serve every purpose of public +worship, for it embraces all services of the Sabbath congregation or the +week-day gathering, and it touches upon all thoughts and feelings of +religious assemblies; it is not above the tastes and abilities of an +earnest congregation, nor beneath the notice and use of the independent +choir. More than this, it has a particular value for the home and the +fireside. Every household knows some quiet hour when the family-voices +seek to join in the happy harmony of some unpretending hymn, and when +the only limit to such grateful music is the failure of memory or the +meagreness of the library, which furnishes only the hymns, or, giving +the tunes, supplies only a part of the words,—for few families possess +both sorts of books in plenty for their convenient use. This volume +offers all,—the hymn, solemn, hopeful, sad, or jubilant, and united to +it a tune, perhaps remembered from recollection's earliest days, perhaps +unknown and untried, but suiting well the spirit of the words, and ready +at an instant's desire to express the sentiment or emotion that rises +for utterance. If "Church Pastorals" had no other merit, this alone +would make it worth possessing by all who love and ever practise sacred +music.</p> + +<p>A thorough and elaborate index includes in one ingenious list all +references, whether to hymns, tunes, or metres; and the inaccuracies +which will creep into even as handsome typography as this are +unimportant, and rectified as quickly as observed. The size is +convenient, and the shape comely.</p> + + +<p><i>Illustrations of Progress</i>: A Series of Discussions by <span class="smcap">Herbert +Spencer</span>. With a Notice of Spencer's "New System of Philosophy." New +York: D. Appleton & Co.</p> + +<p>Mr. Herbert Spencer is already a power in the world. Yet it is not the +vulgar apprehension of power which is associated with notoriety that we +claim for him. He holds no position of civil authority, neither +do his works compete with Miss Braddon's poorest novel in the +circulating-libraries. But he has already influenced the silent life of +a few thinking men whose belief marks the point to which the +civilization of the age must struggle to rise. In America, we may even +now confess our obligations to the writings of Mr. Spencer, for here +sooner than elsewhere the mass feel as utility what a few recognize as +truth. The reader acquainted with the admirable papers upon Education, +which have been republished and extensively circulated in this country, +has recognized their author's fresh and vigorous spirit, his power of +separating the essential from the accidental, as well as his success in +grasping the main features of a subject divested of frivolous and +subordinate details. That he possesses a thinking faculty of rare +comprehensiveness, as well as acuteness, will be allowed by all who will +study his other works now in course of republication in New York.</p> + +<p>Mr. Spencer is at present engaged in an heroic attempt to construct a +sufficing system of philosophy, which shall include Biology, Psychology, +Sociology, and Morality. The great interest to mankind of the discussion +proposed, as well as Mr. Spencer's claims to be intrusted with it, are +set forth with singular clearness and felicity in the essay which +introduces the present volume. Whatever success the latest discoveries +in science render possible to solid intellectual force assisted by the +keenest instruments of logic will doubtless be attained. As far as the +frontiers of knowledge where the intellect may go, there is no living +man whose guidance may more safely be trusted. Mr. Spencer represents +the scientific spirit of the age. He makes note of all that comes within +the range of sensuous experience, and declares whatever may be derived +therefrom by a careful induction. As a philosopher he does not go +farther. Yet beyond this the heart of humanity must ever penetrate. Let +it be true, as it doubtless is, that, when the understanding by process +of logic seeks to demonstrate the Cause of All, it finds a barren +abstraction destitute of personality. It is no less true that God +reveals Himself to the human feeling without intermediate agency. For +the religious <i>sentiment</i> Mr. Spencer finds an indestructible +foundation. While maintaining that man can grasp and know only the +finite, he yet holds that science does not fill the whole region of +mental activity. Man may realize in consciousness what he may not grasp +in thought.</p> + +<p>Of the other doctrines of Mr. Spencer we attempt no exposition. His +attitude towards theology is to us more satisfactory than that of any +recent thinker of the first class. But whatever his conclusions, every +true man will respect and encourage that rectitude of mind which follows +the issues of its reasoning at any cost. It was not the philosopher in +his brain, but the fool <i>in his heart</i>, who said, "There is no God." It +is of little matter what inappropriate name narrow people may have +chosen for Mr. Spencer. Here is a conscientious investigator who finds +duty everywhere, who labors to give men truths which shall elevate and +reform their lives; but he believes that the hope of humanity was +potentially shut in an egg, and never in an ark. And there is the +"reader upon the sofa,"—church-member he may be,—who tosses aside +"Vanity Fair" with the reflection that a gossiping of London snobs is +human life, and that the best thing to be done is to pay pew-rates and +lie still and gird at it. Which of these two, think you, is the modern +representative of King David's "fool"?</p> + +<p>We would not be charged with the superfluity of commending to scholars +the writings of Mr. Spencer. They have long ago found them out. It is to +the mass of working men and women who make time for a solid book or two +in the course of the year that we submit their claims. While those who +have the leisure and training to realize Mr. Spencer's system as a +developed unity must necessarily be few, no reader of tolerable +intelligence can fail to find much of interest and suggestion in its +several parts. With a common allowance for the abstruse nature of the +subjects of which he treats, Mr. Spencer may be called a <i>popular</i> +writer. His philosophical terminology will not be found troublesome in +those of his writings which will first attract the reader. The "Social +Statics," the "Essays," and the treatise on "Education" are very +clearly, as well as most gracefully, written. And after these have been +mastered, most readers will not be repelled by the less easy reading of +the "Principles of Psychology," and the "New System of Philosophy." All +these works are rich in materials for forming intelligent opinions, even +where we are unable to agree with those put forward by the author. Much +may be learnt from them in departments in which our common educational +system is very deficient. The active citizen may derive from them +accurate, systematized information concerning his highest duties to +society, and the principles on which they are based. He may gain clearer +notions of the value and bearing of evidence, and be better able to +distinguish between facts and inferences. He may find common things +suggestive of wiser thought—nay, we will venture to say, of truer +emotion—than before. For Mr. Spencer is not of that school of +"philosophy" which teaches the hopelessness of human effort, and, by +implication, the abandonment of moral dignity. From profound +generalizations upon society, he rises to make the duty of the +individual most solemn and imperative. Above all, he has this best +prerogative of really great thinkers,—he is able to change sentiments +to convictions.</p> + +<p>If we have not particularized the claims of the single volume whose +title is at the head of our notice, it is because all that Mr. Spencer +has written moves towards one end and is equally worthy of attention. +The essays here given are selected from two series, the first published +in 1857, the second in 1863. The present arrangement has been chosen by +the author as more suitable to develop the general purpose which governs +his work. While the doctrine of Evolution is more or less illustrated in +each of these papers, the variety of subjects discussed must touch at +some point the taste and pursuit of any reader. From "Manners and +Fashion" to "The Nebular Hypothesis" is a sweep bold enough to include +most prominent topics with which we are concerned. Indeed, we can recall +no modern volume of the same size which so thoroughly credits its author +with that faculty of looking about him which Pope thought it was man's +business to exercise. There are the current phrases, "seeing life," and +"knowing the world," which generally used to signify groping in the +dirtiest corners of the one and fattening lazily upon the other; but if +it were possible to rescue such expressions from their vulgar +associations, we think that a candid reader would apply the best +conceptions they suggested to the writer of the discussions here +collected. The world as it is to-day is seen by Mr. Spencer as by few +living men. The sciences, which taken singly too often seem only good to +expel the false, have been summoned together to declare the true. Not +Nature alone, but Humanity, which is greater than Nature, must be +interrogated for answers that shall satisfy the ripest reason of the +age. By the rare gifts of comparison which turn to account his wide +observations, Mr. Spencer has already established principles which, +however compelled for a time to compromise with prejudices and vested +interests, will become the recognized basis of an improved society.</p> + +<p>Our only interest in recommending this author to our countrymen comes +from the conviction that he is peculiarly capable of impressing for good +the present condition of our national character. By giving us fuller +realizations of liberty and justice his writings will tend to increase +our self-reliance in the great emergency of civilization to which we +have been summoned. "Our Progressive Independence," so brilliantly +illustrated by Dr. Holmes, emancipating us from foreign fine-writing, +leaves us free to welcome the true manhood and mature wisdom of Europe. +In the time of our old prosperity, amusing a leisure evening over +Kingsley or Ruskin, we were tempted to exclaim, with Sir Peter Teazle, +"There's nothing half so noble as a man of sentiment!" But in these +latter days we have seen "Mr. Gradgrind" step from Dickens's wretched +caricature to bring his "facts" to the great cause of humanity, while +"Joseph Surface" reserved his "sentiments" for the bloody business by +which Slavery sought to subject all things to herself. We have seen the +belles-lettres literature of England more deeply disgraced than when it +smirked before the harlots of the second Charles, or chanted a +blasphemous benediction over George IV. But the thought and science of +the Old World it is still our privilege to recognize. And it can hardly +be necessary to say that the sympathies of Mr. Spencer, like those of +Mill and Cochin, have been with the government and loyal people of the +United States. And so we take especial pleasure in mentioning that a +considerable interest in the American copyright of his writings has been +secured to the author, and also, despite the facilities of reading-clubs +and circulating-libraries, that they are emphatically <i>books to own</i>.</p> + + +<p><i>Poems.</i> By <span class="smcap">Frederick Goddard Tuckerman</span>. Boston: Ticknor and +Fields.</p> + +<p>These poems show by internal evidence that they are the productions of a +man of refined organization and delicate sensibility to beauty, who has +lived much in solitude and tasted of the cup of sorrow. Of decided +originality in intellectual construction it cannot be said that they +give emphatic proof: the poet, as Schiller has said, is the child of his +age, and Mr. Tuckerman's poetry not unfrequently shows that he has been +a diligent student of those masters in his art who have best caught and +reproduced the spirit of the times in which we dwell. It has one quality +to a high degree,—and that is, a minute knowledge of the peculiarities +of the natural world as it appears in New England. In his long woodland +walks, he has kept open an eye of observation as practised as that of +the naturalist. The trees, the shrubs, the flowers of New England are +known to him as they are to few. He is tempted to draw too largely upon +this source of interest: in other words, there is too much of +description in his volume. Life is hardly long enough for such elaborate +painting. We may admire the skill of the delineation, but we cannot +pause sufficiently before the canvas to do full justice to the painter. +Those poems in which Mr. Tuckerman expresses the emotions of bereavement +and sorrow are those which have the highest merit in point of thought +and expression. They are full of tenderness and sensibility; but the +poet should bear in mind that strings which vibrate such music should be +sparingly struck.</p> + +<p>It may be somewhat paradoxical to say so, but it appears to us that the +poetry of Mr. Tuckerman would be improved, if it had more of prose in +it. It does not address itself to common emotions and every-day +sympathies. His flour is bolted too fine. One must almost be a poet +himself to enter into full communion with him. In intellectual +productions the refining process should not be carried too far: beyond a +certain point, what is gained in delicacy is lost in manliness and +power.</p> + + +<p><i>Possibilities of Creation; or, What the World might have been.</i> A Book +of Fancies. London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co.</p> + +<p>The author describes his work as a treatise of the Bridgewater class. We +should rather describe it as a <i>reductio ad absurdum</i> in Natural +Philosophy. A great deal of humor, ingenuity, and information are +brought into play to turn the world upside-down, for the very laudable +purpose of demonstrating that it is better to be right side up,—a +method of demonstration curious and interesting enough, if comprised in +a single essay, but rather long-drawn-out, when spread over four hundred +pages. Suppose, for instance, is the writer's mode of argument, a +malicious demon let loose, with power to set the earth topsy-turvy, on +condition of keeping it still an earth. With what exultation does he +bestride the Himalayas to watch the convulsions which he causes! How +does he kick his heels against the mountain-flanks, in ecstasy at seeing +men bleached and blistered with the chlorine or nauseated with the +sulphuretted hydrogen which he has substituted for our wholesome and +pleasant air! Or what should we do, if potato-roots had happened to be +moistened with gin instead of water? What if men, instead of standing +god-like erect, had been great balls of flesh, rolling along the ground +as best they could,—if Young's poetical figure had been a practical +truth, and this globe were the Bedlam of the universe,—if the fixity of +Nature had been shattered, and we sat down at our feasts to find the +soup bitter as strychnine, the wine changed into vinegar, and mild ale +fiery as vitriol? What if wrinkles and gray hairs came in the twinkling +of an eye,—if children were born with matured minds,—if no one were +capable of anger,—and men started at the same point to arrive at the +same conclusions? In short,—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"If all the world was apple-pie,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And all the sea was ink,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And all the trees were bread and cheese,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">What should we have for drink?"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>To all which startling inquiries we are fain to say, that, if Merrie +England sits under her present squally skies in such a frame of bliss +that she must have recourse to her imagination, when she wishes to +contemplate a nice little <i>imbroglio</i>, she must be awarded the palm for +being what Mark Tapley would call "jolly under creditable +circumstances." For ourselves, we frankly confess that we find quite +trouble enough in steering among the realities of creation, without +caring to venture far out among its possibilities.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="RECENT_AMERICAN_PUBLICATIONS" id="RECENT_AMERICAN_PUBLICATIONS"></a>RECENT AMERICAN PUBLICATIONS</h2> + +<h3>RECEIVED BY THE EDITORS OF THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY.</h3> + + +<p>Cudjo's Cave. By J. T. Trowbridge, Author of "Neighbor Jackwood," etc. +Boston. J. E. Tilton & Co. 12mo. pp. 504. $1.50.</p> + +<p>Sadlier's Catholic Almanac and Ordo for the Year of our Lord 1864. With +Full Returns of the Various Dioceses in the United States and British +North America. And a List of the Archbishops, Bishops, and Priests in +Ireland. New York. D. & J. Sadlier & Co. 12mo. paper. pp. 330. 50 cts.</p> + +<p>The Natural History of Secession; or, Despotism and Democracy at +Necessary, Eternal, Exterminating War. By Thomas Shepard Goodwin, A. M. +New York. John Bradburn. 12mo. pp. 328. $1.25.</p> + +<p>Squadron Tactics under Steam. [By Authority of the Navy Department.] By +Foxhall A. Parker, Commander United States Navy. New York. D. Van +Nostrand. 8vo. pp. 172. $5.00.</p> + +<p>Father Mathew: A Biography. By John Francis Maguire, M. P., Author of +"Rome: its Ruler and its Institutions." New York. D. & J. Sadlier & Co. +12mo. pp. xxi., 557. $1.50.</p> + +<p>Eliza Woodson; or, The Early Days of one of the World's Workers. A Story +of American Life. New York. A. J. Davis & Co. 12mo. pp. 425. $1.25.</p> + +<p>Letters to a Lady. By Wilhelm von Humboldt. From the German, with an +Introduction by Charles Godfrey Leland. Philadelphia. F. Leypoldt. 16mo. +pp. 257. $1.00.</p> + +<p>Four American Poems, metrically translated into German. By Charles +Theodore Eben. Philadelphia. F. Leypoldt. 16mo. paper. pp. 51. 25 cts.</p> + +<p>The Art of Conversation; with Directions for Self-Education. New York. +G. W. 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Translated by J. +Leander Starr. New York. John Bradburn. 12mo. pp. 281. $1.25.</p> + +<p>The Color-Guard: being a Corporal's Notes of Military Service in the +Nineteenth Army Corps. By James K. Hosmer, of the Fifty-Second Regiment +Massachusetts Volunteers. Boston. Walker, Wise, & Co. 16mo. pp. xii., +244. $1.25.</p> + +<p>Life of William Hickling Prescott. By George Ticknor. Boston. Ticknor & +Fields. 4to. pp. x., 491. $7.50.</p> + +<p>Tales of a Wayside Inn. By Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. Boston. Ticknor & +Fields. 12mo. pp. viii., 225. $1.25.</p> + +<p>A Woman's Ransom. By Frederick William Robinson, Author of +"Grandmother's Money," etc. Boston. T. O. H. P. Burnham. 12mo. pp. +viii., 412. $1.50.</p> + +<p>Sunshine: A New Name for a Popular Lecture on Health. By Mrs. Dall, +Author of "Woman's Right to Labor," etc. Boston. Walker, Wise, & Co. +16mo. paper. pp. 64. 35 cts.</p> + +<p>The Wife's Secret. By Mrs. Ann S. Stephens. Philadelphia. T. B. 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New York. D. Appleton & Co. +12mo. pp. 260. $1.25.</p> + +<p>Illustrations of Universal Progress; A Series of Discussions. By Herbert +Spencer, Author of "The Principles of Psychology," etc. With a Notice of +Spencer's "New System of Philosophy." New York. D. Appleton & Co. 12mo. +pp. xxxi., 446. $1.75.</p> + +<p>The National Almanac and Annual Record for the Year 1864. Philadelphia. +G. W. Childs. 12mo. pp. 641. $1.50.</p> + +<p>Annual of Scientific Discovery; or, Year-Book of Facts in Science and +Art for 1864. Exhibiting the most Important Discoveries and Improvements +in Mechanics, Useful Arts, Natural Philosophy, Chemistry, Astronomy, +Geology, Zoölogy, Botany, Mineralogy, Meteorology, Geography, +Antiquities, etc. Together with Notes on the Progress of Science during +the Year 1863; a List of Recent Scientific Publications; Obituaries of +Eminent Scientific Men, etc. Edited by David A. Wells, A. M., M. D. +Boston. Gould & Lincoln. 12mo. pp. 351. $1.50.</p> + +<p>The Red Track. A Tale of Life in Mexico. By Gustave Aimard. +Philadelphia. T. B. Peterson & Brothers. 8vo. paper. pp. 157. 50 cts.</p> + +<p>Dangerfield's Rest; or, Before the Storm. A Novel of American Life and +Manners, New York. Sheldon & Co. 12mo. pp. 392. $1.50.</p> + +<p>The Philanthropic Results of the War in America. Collected from Official +and other Authentic Sources. By an American Citizen. New York. Sheldon & +Co. 18mo. pp. 160. 50 cts.</p> + +<p>A Treatise on Military Surveying, Theoretical and Practical. Including a +Description of Surveying Instruments. By G. H. Mendell, Captain of +Engineers. New York. D. Van Nostrand. 12mo. pp. 193. $2.00.</p> + +<p>The Blennerhassett Papers. Embodying the Private Journal of Harman +Blennerhassett, and the hitherto Unpublished Correspondence of Burr, +Alston, Comfort Tyler, Devereaux, Dayton, Adair, Miro, Emmett, Theodosia +Burr Alston, Mrs. Blennerhassett, and others, their Contemporaries; +developing the Purposes and Aims of those engaged in the Attempted +Wilkinson and Burr Revolution; embracing also the First Account of the +"Spanish Association of Kentucky," and a Memoir of Blennerhassett. By +William H. Safford. Cincinnati. Moore, Wilstach, & Baldwin, 8vo. pp. +665. $3.00.</p> + +<p>Church Essays. By George Cumming McWhorter, Author of "A Popular +Hand-Book of the New Testament." New York. D. Appleton & Co. 12mo. pp. +175. $1.00.</p> + +<p>My Cave-Life in Vicksburg. With Letters of Trial and Travel. By a Lady. +New York. D. Appleton & Co. 16mo. pp. 196. $1.00.</p> + +<p>Field Tactics for Infantry: comprising the Battalion Movements and +Brigade Evolutions Useful in the Field, on the March, and in the +Presence of the Enemy. By Brigadier-General William H. Morris. New York. +D. Van Nostrand. 18mo. pp. 146. 75 cts.</p> + +<p>Christian Memorials of the War; or, Scenes and Incidents Illustrative of +Religious Faith and Principle, Patriotism and Bravery, in our Army. With +Historical Notes. By Horatio B. Hackett, Professor of Biblical +Literature and Interpretation in Newton Theological Institute. Boston. +Gould & Lincoln. 12mo. pp. 252. $1.50.</p> + +<p>Family Pride. By the Author of "Pique." Philadelphia. T. B. Peterson & +Brothers. 12mo. pp. 396. $1.50.</p> + +<p>America and her Commentators. With a Critical Sketch of Travel in the +United States. By Henry T. Tuckerman. New York. C. Scribner. 8vo. pp. +viii., 460. $2.50.</p> + +<p>Synonymes of the New Testament. By Richard Chevenix Trench, D. D. Second +Part. New York. C. Scribner. 12mo. pp. iv., 214. $1.00.</p> + +<p>The Management of Steel, including Forging, Hardening, Tempering, +Annealing, Shrinking, and Expansion; also the Case-Hardening of Iron. By +George Ede, employed in the Royal Gun Factories Department, Woolwich +Arsenal. First American, from Second London Edition. New York. D. +Appleton & Co. 12mo. pp. 41. 50 cts.</p> + +<p>Thoughts for the Christian Life. By Rev. James Drummond. With an +Introduction by Rev. J. G. Holland. New York. C. Scribner. 12mo. pp. +xxi., 371. $1.50.</p> + +<p>History of the Romans under the Empire. By Charles Merivale, B. D., late +Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. From the Fourth London Edition. +With a Copious Analytical Index. Vol. III. New York. D. Appleton & Co. +12mo. pp. 431. $2.00.</p> + +<p>The Federalist. A Commentary on the Constitution of the United States. A +Collection of Essays, by Alexander Hamilton, Jay, and Madison. Also, The +Continentalist and other Papers, by Hamilton. Edited by John C. +Hamilton, Author of "The History of the Republic of the United States." +Philadelphia. J. B. Lippincott & Co. 8vo. pp. clxvi., 660, vi. $3.50.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 13, No. +80, June, 1864, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY *** + +***** This file should be named 19827-h.htm or 19827-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/8/2/19827/ + +Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Josephine Paolucci and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by Cornell University Digital Collections). + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 13, No. 80, June, 1864 + +Author: Various + +Release Date: November 16, 2006 [EBook #19827] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY *** + + + + +Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Josephine Paolucci and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by Cornell University Digital Collections). + + + + + + + + + + + +THE + +ATLANTIC MONTHLY. + +A MAGAZINE OF LITERATURE, ART, AND POLITICS. + +VOL. XIII.--JUNE, 1864.--NO. LXXX. + +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by TICKNOR +AND FIELDS, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the +District of Massachusetts. + + + + +Transcriber's Note: Minor typos have been corrected. Footnotes have been +moved to the end of the article. + + + + +A TALK ABOUT GUIDES. + + +Talk about guides! Let Independence, Self-Conceit, and Go-ahead +undervalue them, if they will; but I, Sola Foemina, (for that is the +name I go by,) of Ignorance, (the place I hail from,) casting up my +unbalanced accounts, (with a view to settling,) find a large credit due +to this class of individuals, which (though I have not the means to +meet) I have no intention to repudiate. + +Now and then, to be sure, I, S. F., have been reminded in my journeyings +of poor dear E., whose lively spirit was so chafed by the exactions made +upon his purse and his temper at the hands of this imperturbable race, +that at last he turned, like a stag at bay, and vented all his wrath in +the face of a startled old woman by the abrupt and emphatic query, +"What'll you take to clear out?" + +Still, dogmatic and prosing as they sometimes proved, my experience on +the whole was favorable; and from the motherly old portress of the +English church at Honeybourne, who fed me with bread and butter under +her cottage-roof, and sent me away laden with garden-flowers and a +blessing, to faithful Michel, who held me over the blue fissures of the +glaciers that I might get a glimpse of their secret waterfalls, who +gathered violets for me on the margin of the icy sea, and, when I had +carelessly dropped them by the way, treasured up the faded things to +restore them to me at nightfall,--from the aged woman, with her "Good +bye till we meet in heaven," to the rough mountaineer, with his hearty +hand-pressure and God-speed at parting, I would not willingly lose one +link out of the chain of such fast friends which stretched along my way. + +There is Warwick Castle,--a written history, no doubt, to scholars, a +mine of wealth to antiquaries and architects; but how incomplete would +my associations be with the spot, were you banished from the picture, my +sturdy friend, fit type of the female retainers of the household of the +King-Maker, who, stationed within the ivied approach to the castle, +presided at the brazen porridge-pot, once holding food enough to satisfy +ten score of men, now empty, save for the volume of sound which stuns +the ear when you strike it with your ponderous iron bar! Can I ever +forget the scene of laughter and riot, when you installed me within the +capacious vessel, dubbed me "Countess Guy, of the Porridge-Pot," and, +the rest of my party having been induced to accept the hospitalities of +the place, and mount my triumphal car, declared your intention to light +a fire beneath and have the finest stew in all England? The castle is a +stern place, perhaps; but how can I ever think it grim, with such a +jolly old flatterer as you stationed at its portal? + +And here, in my blundering way, I have stumbled on the secret spring of +my whole subject; so I may as well make a merit of confession, and +acknowledge frankly that the trap in which these wary guides entangled +my affections was generally neither more nor less than a net of silken +flattery. Your good guide, your dear guide, your pet guide, whom +Neighbor So-and-so, going abroad, must look up immediately on his +arrival, this invaluable creature, depend upon it, is an arrant +flatterer. He does not go out of his way for you; he does not tell it +you to your face; but, somehow or other, (if he knows his vocation,) he +makes you believe, that, of all the travellers he ever escorted, (and he +has been a travellers' escort from his infancy,) you are the first, the +only one, in whose behalf duty became a privilege. + +Do you suppose I put faith in Michel, when, on my second Alpine +excursion, this companion of the previous day's peril placed himself in +close proximity to my mule, took the bridle with an air of satisfaction, +and whispered with an insinuating smile, "I go with _you_ to-day; see, +there is another guide for Mademoiselle"? He was mistaken. It was my +young friend whom he was, on this occasion, destined to escort over the +mountain. He was as devoted to her as if she had been the apple of his +eye. Whether I followed next in the file, brought up the rear, or was +dashed over the precipice, I doubt if he looked behind him to discover. +Was I fool enough, then, to trust his professions? I acknowledge the +weakness. I was but a novice, he a practised courtier in the guise of a +mountaineer. To make a clean breast of it, I even suspect that his +self-gratulatory whisper is still ringing in my ear, for I find that +Mademoiselle and I are rivals in our devotion to Michel. + +And Ann Harris, of Honeybourne, widow, portress of the ancient +village-church, surrounded by villagers' graves, approached by four +foot-paths over four stiles, perfect model of all the churches in all +the novels of English literature,--was it partiality for me, ancient +matron, or an eye to a silver sixpence, which made you, and makes you +still, the heroine of my day of romance? At any rate, I shall never +cease to invoke a blessing on that immaculate railway-company which +decoyed me from London into the heart of England, and, with a coolness +unexampled in the new districts of Iowa, dropped me at the sweetest nook +under the sun, there to wait three hours for the train which should have +taken me at once to Stratford,--three golden hours, in which I might +bask like a bee in a Honeybourne beyond my hopes. + +Not that my Honeybourne was precisely the spot where the railway-train +left me standing deserted and alone,--alone save for a Stratford +furniture-dealer, who, unceremoniously set down in the midst of his new +stock of tables and chairs, and with nothing else in sight but a +platform, a shed, and me, looked at the last-mentioned object for +sympathy, while he cursed the departing train and swore the usual oath +of vengeance, namely, that he would never travel that road again. + +_He_ got red with passion and cursed the road; _I_ stared round me and +kept cool. Was I more philosophical than he? No, but there was this +difference: he was bent on business, I on pleasure; he was in a hurry, I +could afford to wait. + +Three hours,--and only a platform, a shed, and an infuriated +furniture-dealer to keep me company! This was the Honeybourne station, +but not Honeybourne. I found a railway-official hard by, had my baggage +stowed in the shed, crossed the platform, looked at my watch to make +sure of the time, then struck out into the open country. Through shady +lanes, over stiles, across the fields, on I went, in the direction +pointed out to me by two laborers whom I met at starting. The sweet +white may smiled at me from the hedges; the great sober eyes of the +cattle at pasture reflected my sense of contentment; the nonchalant +English sheep showed no signs of disturbance at my approach (unlike the +American species, which invariably take to their heels); the children +set to watch them lifted their heads from the long grass and looked +lazily after me, never doubting my right to tread the well-worn +foot-path with which every green field beguiled me on. I came out in the +vegetable-garden of a rustic cottage, one of some dozen thatched-roofed +dwellings, which, with the church and simple parsonage, constituted +sweet Honeybourne. "Oh that it were the bourne from which no traveller +returns!" was the thought of my heart, as, with a dreamy sense of +longings fulfilled, I wandered through the miniature village, across it, +around it, beyond it, and back to it again, as a bee saturated with +sweets floats round the hive. + +And now to my queen-bee, Ann Harris, aforesaid! + +"All the way from Lunnon! Alone, and such a distance! Bless my heart!" +cried the primitive Ann, with hands and eyes uplifted. "Come in and rest +you, and have something to eat! I have bread and butter, sweet and good, +and will boil the kettle and make you a cup of tea, if you say so." + +I had already made the circuit of the church, strolled among the ancient +gravestones, crossed the moss-covered bridge, threaded the paths beneath +the hawthorn, had a vision of boundless beauty, drunk in the silence, +and dreamed out my dream of solitude, independence, and the joy of being +no one but myself knew where. Could I do better than accept this +invitation to enter the humble cottage, with the prospect of an +admittance also to an old woman's heart? Did I win the latter? or did I +only fancy it? Did the motherly creature believe me lost? or was her +astonishment only feigned? Was she really, despite her poverty, ready to +share her last crust with a stranger? or was the benignant glance which +gave me in my loneliness the sense of adoption merely an eye to +self-interest? + +Dear old soul! One of us, at least, was simple-hearted and true,--either +she in her innocent professions, or I in my silly credulity. I have +faith that it was she. At all events, I do so cherish the memory of her +kindness, that, so far from treasuring the notion of the silver +sixpence, I hereby pledge myself, that, if ever the reminiscence I am +penning should be worth half as much to me in gold as it is in memory, I +will send Ann Harris at least one shining guinea, as a token how +willingly I would go shares with her in something. + +And the guinea would not come amiss, for Ann was poor; her clay-floored +cottage boasted only its exquisite neatness, her furniture was of the +humblest, her dress the cheapest. She was too old for hard work; her +duties at the little church were light,--the profits, I fear, were +lighter; for that visitors to the remote sanctuary were rare her +reception of me was sufficient proof. As she guided me through the +church, I asked her if it was well attended. She shook her head sadly, +and, pointing in the direction of a neighboring village, answered,-- + +"Most of 'em go to chapel, yonder,--the more's the pity." + +She told me that she had no provision for the coming winter, and feared +she must go to the Union. (It was not our own, then prosperous and +unbroken, Union, to which she dreaded emigrating.) She merely meant the +work-house; and as she spoke, her face wore a shadow that still clouds +my recollections of Honeybourne. I do not know if her fears were +realized,--if her cottage is forsaken,--if she dwells among paupers, or +sleeps in the village church-yard; but I cannot think of her as lonely +or poor or dead. Her saintly face told of blessed communion; I know that +she was rich in faith and hope; and were I assured that her spirit had +left the flesh, I should only picture her to myself standing erect at +heaven's doorway, welcoming strangers with the same serenity with which +she said to me at parting,--"I shall meet you _there_." + +She offered me a farewell gift of flowers from her garden. It was a +beautiful cottage-garden, and many of the flowers were brilliant and +even rare, giving proof of careful, if not scientific culture. Still I +hesitated. My hands were full of sweet may, red campion, and other +native field-blossoms, which had introduced themselves to me +anonymously. They were the children of the green sod which I had been +treading so lightly on my way to the village; and, in the quiet of my +ramble, they had seemed to me like whispers from Him who made them, and +with whom I had never felt so utterly alone. I could not bear to see +them displaced by Ann's garden-belles, tempting as the latter would have +been at any other moment. She saw my indifference to her offer. I knew +she saw it working in my face. I attempted to apologize for my +preference, but she did not understand me; so I blurted out my thought, +awkwardly enough, saying,-- + +"Yours are beautiful; but God made these, you know,--and--and--I like +them best." + +She looked down upon me gravely, pityingly, smiling, too, with a +tenderness which was neither grave nor pitying. I have seen +long-visioned people look with just that expression at the eyes of the +short-sighted, on the latter's confessing their inability to detect an +object at no great distance. + +"_He made them all_," she said; and her words were an ascription of +praise. + +They come to me often now. They bid me look farther and see more. They +tell me how _mine_ and _thine_ have no place in this world of _His_. +False distinctions shrink away from the light of the old woman's clearer +faith; I see how the ablest workers are but instruments in higher +hands,--how science, culture, inspiration itself, are but gifts to be +laid on His altar. + +I need scarcely say that I at once found room for Ann's flowers in my +hand, as for her lesson in my heart. Some of the former are pressed and +laid away as a sacred memento, and something of the latter is treasured +up among good seed sown by the way-side. + +I would gladly have lingered longer in this little nook, into which I +seemed to have been drifted by chance; but my time was up,--I had a mile +or two to walk over the fields in the direction of the railway,--my +friends were to meet me at Stratford. Should I miss the train this time, +my philosophy might fail me as signally as that of the above-mentioned +furniture-dealer failed him. + +A few hours after I bade my old friend farewell, I was at my +destination. Millions have shared my experiences at the tomb of the +great poet. Everybody is familiar with William Shakspeare and +Stratford-on-Avon, but I hug the thought that nobody but I knows +anything about Ann Harris and Honeybourne. + + * * * * * + +I have dwelt upon an occasion in which the humble office of a guide +resulted in companionship, friendship, instruction. A brief sojourn in +Alpine regions has furnished me with a similar reminiscence. + +We were setting forth for a day's ride across the Tete-Noire. Our party +consisted of five, and we had two guides. Our baggage, which was for the +most part light, was strapped on the backs of the mules behind the +riders. One article, however, a square box of considerable proportions, +proved refractory, and, veering from side to side, refused to maintain +the even balance which, owing to the rough nature of the bridle-path, +was essential to the safety of both mule and rider. We were obliged to +halt again and again, that the box might be restrapped, always with +doubtful success. Each time that we drew up in line for this purpose we +were overtaken by a Swiss youth, who had perceived our dilemma, and who +hoped, by following us up closely, to make a job out of it. There was +but a limited knowledge of French among us, (the language in which the +youth spoke,) still, by aid of his vehement gestures, he made us +understand that he was ready, for a consideration, to accompany us on +our toilsome journey, and carry the box on his back. + +"Eight francs, Monsieur,--I will do it for eight francs!" But the box +was righted, his services seemed superfluous, and we moved on, +regardless of his beseeching looks. + +A fresh delay soon ensued, the boy came panting up, and this time it was +"Seven francs,"--nay, as we rode away from him, he frantically shouted, +"Six!" His prospects seemed hopeless, but destiny and perseverance were +on his side,--the box gave another alarming lurch,--the heated and +almost discouraged youth made one last appeal,-- + +"Four francs, Monsieur! I will do it for four francs!" and the day was +his. + +He was not a regular guide, appointed by Government and furnished with a +certificate, as is the law of the Alpine district for all who serve in +this responsible capacity. We had engaged him simply as a porter. Still, +the docile youth had no sooner strapped the box on his back than, seeing +that I was the only lady unprovided with an attendant, he drew my mule's +bridle through his arm, and quietly took me in charge. + +No matter how charming a travelling-party you belong to, the moment they +are all mounted and climbing a mountain, single file, you feel yourself +a unit in creation. Everybody has turned his back upon you, and you have +turned your back upon everybody. You are a solitary traveller. Are you +aghast at your own situation on the steep slope of a mule's back, with a +precipice above your head and your feet dangling over a gulf below? +There is no help for it. Imagine yourself a sack of meal, if you can, +and expect as little sympathy as would be accorded to that article. Are +you moved to a keen sense of the ridiculous, as a curve in the road +discloses the figures of your elongated party, unused to riding, and +rendered the more grotesque by their mountain-equipment? A laugh +unshared is no laugh at all, so you may as well smother it at once. Does +the scenery through which you are passing awaken emotions of sublimity? +It would be sacrilege to shout out your sentiments to the occupant of +the next mule in such tones as a watchman would employ to cry, "Fire!" +No,--if you are essentially a social creature, there is nothing for it +but to bottle up your sensibilities and await the opportunity for an +explosion when you reach your inn. + +Something like this result occurred, I remember, on the evening of that +very day, when Mademoiselle, who, under the charge of Michel, led the +van, met me at the hotel at Martigny, at which place she had of course +arrived a little in advance. We were not usually more demonstrative in +our manners than is customary among New-England women, but the moment I +could alight we rushed into each other's embrace, regardless of a crowd +of astonished porters and guides, mutually insisting, by way of apology, +that it seemed as if we had not met for a year. + +Having dwelt upon this peculiar isolation experienced by the Alpine +traveller, it may be conjectured, that, when the boy, Auguste, drew my +bridle through his arm, I felt very much as Robinson Crusoe did when he +was joined by his man Friday. Auguste and I soon became friends. He was +a large, round-faced, mild-eyed youth, who, the instant the excitement +of securing his employment was past, subsided into a soft, even pace +like that of a dog. Now and then, too, he looked up at the mule and me, +precisely as a dog, accompanying his master, looks up to see if all is +right. + +I did not talk to him at first. His mere presence was satisfaction +enough. After a while we grew more sociable. He spoke a French _patois_. +So did I. His was peculiar to the province,--mine wholly original,--but +both answered the purpose of communication, and so were satisfactory. +He had the essential characteristic of his profession,--he was one of +the oily-tongued tribe, simple as he seemed, and I the willing victim; +for I am confident that I straightened in my saddle, and talked more +glibly than ever in the language peculiar to myself, on the strength of +his _naive_ surprise at learning the place of my nativity, and his +polite exclamation, "_De l'Amerique! O! j'avais cru que vous etiez de +Paris_!" + +The conversation you hold with your guide has this advantage,--you can +suspend it at will. There are miles of travel, in crossing the +Tete-Noire, when, if your most sympathizing friend walked beside you, +the thought of both hearts would be, "Let all the earth keep silence!" +and in the absence of such unspoken sympathy, the next best thing is the +innocent gravity of an attendant hired for so many francs a day, and not +presuming to speak unless spoken to. + +But when these sublimer passages are passed, when the path skirts the +edge of the valley, when the giant mountains have retired a little and +you slacken the tense cord of emotion which for a while has held you +spell-bound, it is a relief to loosen the tongue also, and reassure +yourself with the sound of the human voice. Thus Auguste and I had +frequent dialogues. He told me something of his past life, which I do +not remember very well. I think its chief incident was his having been +drafted for the army, and having served his term. Of his future, +however, he spoke with an earnestness which has left its impression on +my mind. He said that the next winter he meant to go to Paris and seek a +service; and his perseverance in wringing employment out of us inclines +me to think that he fulfilled his intention. Savoy, to which province he +belonged, had just been annexed to France. A party of guides from +Chamouni had the day before succeeded, with difficulty, in planting the +imperial flag on the summit of Mont Blanc. Was it this which had +awakened the ambition of the young Savoyard to share the spoils of the +empire of which he had so suddenly become a member? Perhaps (I never +thought of it before, but perhaps) he was already seeking means for his +journey to the capital. Perhaps the price of his hard-won service was to +be the nucleus of his savings. Have I, then, aided your purpose, +Auguste? helped to transform you from a simple mountain-lad to a mere +link in a chain of street-sweepers, an artful official of a third-rate +billiard-saloon, or a roystering cab-driver with his perpetual entreaty +for an extra fee in the form of "_Quelque chose a boire_"? My mind +shrinks from the possibility, for I cannot bear to think of him as other +than he then seemed,--a child of Nature and of the truth. + +In the course of our day's journey we drew near a little village. I had +been chatting with Auguste and felt in a loquacious mood, but paused as +I found myself passing through the village,--in other words, sneaking +round the corner of one shabby hut, and straight through the farm-yard +of the next, and close by the windows of a third,--the three, and a few +other stray buildings, constituting the hamlet. As it seemed an +impertinence to follow such an intrusive, inquisitive little road at +all, we could, of course, do no less than maintain a dumb propriety in +the presence of the children and kitchen-utensils, but, as we left them +behind and struck across an open field, my eye fell on one of those +way-side shrines common in all Roman-Catholic districts. It was a +miniature arch of plastered or whitewashed stone, and contained, as +nearly as I could judge from the glimpse I had in passing, two coarse +dolls, intended to represent the Virgin and Child. + +"What is that, Auguste?" I asked, with feigned ignorance. + +"A place of worship," he answered; "the people come there to pray." + +"But what do they come _there_ for?" I continued. + +"_God is there_," he answered, with emphasis, pointing at the same time +to the gayly dressed puppets. + +"No, He is not," I replied. + +He turned round and looked at me defiantly. His mild face became that +of a fanatic, and I actually quailed beneath his angry eye, as he +retorted,-- + +"He _is_ there." + +My mistake flashed upon me, too, at the instant, and I hastened to +explain myself in the simplest manner my poor French would allow, +saying,-- + +_"Oui, Auguste, Il est la, c'est vrai; mais Il est la aussi!"_--and I +pointed to the snow-capped mountains on my right,--_"et la!"_--and I +waved my hand towards the deeply shadowed heights on the opposite side +of the valley. + +He caught my meaning as by an inspiration. His fierce frown melted +instantly into an intelligent smile. + +_"Il est partout!"_ exclaimed the youth, with enthusiasm, his childlike, +eager eyes seeking a response in mine. + +I nodded in affirmation of the truth. It was enough. Catholic and +Protestant had met on common ground,--we understood each other,--we were +reconciled. + +Has he carried his large faith with him into the great metropolis? and +have I kept mine unshaken in spite of the storm that is raging in my +native land? Armed in his simplicity only, he has gone to meet the gusts +of temptation; and I have lived to see the Republic, which I believed +inviolable as Mother Earth herself, tremble and totter, as one after +another of her rotten pillars has fallen away. God grant that we may +both, in this day of our peril, be able, as then, to realize that "_Il +est partout_"! + +During my short Alpine journey I held the office of paymaster for our +party, my election being due not so much to proficiency in the queer +dialect above alluded to as to courage in the use of it. It is always a +pleasant office to disburse the funds, but was never more so than when, +late at night, Michel and Auguste came to the hotel at Martigny to +receive the reward of their day's toil. Michel had his full dues in +money, and plenty of praise to boot; Auguste, evidently much to his +surprise, a trifle more than his minimum price. Each of them then +grasped my hand in his horny palm,--an unexpected salutation, but not a +harsh one, for each hand had a heart in it, or I believed it had, which +was all the same to me. They made the customary promise not to forget +me, but credulity must stop somewhere, and at this point I must confess +my easy faith gave out, and left me skeptical. + + * * * * * + +I have given the preference in order of narrative, as well as in memory, +to guides who proved competent, willing, and true, who, if they seasoned +the intercourse between us with a little encouragement to my +self-esteem, had nothing in them obsequious or timeserving, and who set +me a wholesome example of clear convictions and firmness in the +maintenance of right. But not only are the virtues of the race whom I +have chosen for a theme subjects of congratulation; even the +uncertainties and misfits of these frequently rusty keys to the past +excite a mirth that lightens the toil with which one rummages through +the corridors of time. It would be treason to tell the name of that +antique university-chapel where a certain wooden-headed verger was +betrayed into the absurdest error; it would be personal to give the name +of the waggish friend who made him his innocent butt; but the facts and +the joke claim no disguise. + +The solemn British beadle had been rehearsing the history of numerous +sarcophagi and monuments, dwelling with mingled pathos and indignation +upon the injuries which the chapel, its railings, and its statues had +sustained at the hands of that arch-destroyer and his soldiery who, in +their zeal for the new Commonwealth, trampled brutally upon the records +of past grandeur and royalty. + +"He stabled his 'osses 'ere! yes, 'ere,--in this wery chapel! ugh!" was +the wrathful exclamation of our guide; and as he pointed towards the +tablets without corners and the effigies lacking noses or feet, there +was a low muttering in his throat and a look at us intended to excite +sympathetic ire on our part. + +One only of our party responded to the look. + +"Let me see,--Cromwell was a terrible Catholic, wasn't he?" gravely +inquired our fellow-traveller, as if in this way, and this way only, +could the sacrilege be accounted for,--one blue eye, as he spoke, full +of sage earnestness, the other twinkling with fun. + +The stolid face of our guide now became a study. He had no instructions +for such an emergency as this. The question had made war with his poor +wits. For a moment they staggered, felt themselves defeated, and were +about to surrender. But, resolute Briton that he was, the old man soon +rallied his forces. True servant both of Church and State, he saw that +there was no consistent course for him but to consign the enemy of +royalty and the contemner of sacred monuments to the abominable Scarlet +Lady. He gave one appealing look at his interrogator, but the side of +the face turned towards him was immovable. It gave no positive +discouragement to an affirmative reply; it even feigned ignorance. +Seeking enlightenment, and taking heart of faith, the verger assented in +the words, "Y-e-e-e-s,--I be-e-e-lieve so!" Then, his courage rising as +he felt himself committed to the fact, he continued, with emphasis and a +dictatorial nodding of the head, "Yes,--yes, he _was_." + +Many and laughable are the instances of such perplexity and mistake +among the aged pieces of mechanism who have for years been sounding the +same tune to generations of unquestioning ears, and who, not having an +extra note in their gamut, can by no means bear to be played upon by +strange hands. Age has its exemptions and immunities, however; might +makes right, and one who has long been a dictator comes to be deemed an +infallible authority. So they whine on, and are oftener believed than +otherwise. As they constitute a class, and those whom I have to do with +are chiefly the exceptions, I will forbear to dwell on stereotyped +specimens, and turn to one so unlike the generality of her tribe, so +utterly lawless, so completely at variance with all her surroundings, +that I must beg leave to introduce her precisely as she introduced +herself. + + * * * * * + +There is an old place in England (there may be many such, but I know +there is one) which is consecrated to imagination, romance, and memory. +Abandoned by its owners as a residence, it is nevertheless maintained in +sufficient repair to prevent its walls from crumbling or its beauty of +outline from being marred, and stands forth a living epic, written in +stone and oak, and meriting a place among the classics of the land. + +The favorite of tourists, artists, and antiquaries, it can well dispense +with anything like an accurate description from a traveller who went +thither, not to study, but to muse; so, putting in a plea, beforehand, +for possible failures in observation and memory, I propose to myself +nothing more than a re-indulgence of the reverie which took possession +of me on my visit to Haddon Hall. + +We had spent the middle hours of the day at Chatsworth, that palace and +museum of modern art, and, with senses bewildered and eyes dazzled by +the magnificence of a ducal residence unparalleled, perhaps, in the +world for its wealth and culture, we had set off, in the latter part of +the afternoon, to view its antipodes. The circumstances and the hour +were not inappropriate. Sated with the most perfect display of luxury +and taste which the present age can boast, and somewhat weary with the +toil of sight-seeing, a six-mile drive, the gradual decline of the +summer day, the shadows gathering over the landscape, all acted as a +gentle narcotic, and were a fit preparative for our approach to that +old, deserted homestead, the first glimpse of which set my fancy +roaming, and carried me away into a world of dreams. + +Hitherto I had been the contented occupant of an old yellow coach, and +had been satisfied with the pace of two jaded post-horses. But, as I +crossed the drawbridge and climbed the steep hill which led to the +principal gateway, I found myself mounted on rapid wings, and whirling +through the centuries. Not that I was rushing on in advance of the age. +No,--the wings flapped backwards, they careered disdainfully over and +beyond the region of reality; as we flew, the present became merged in +the past, the actual gave place to the ideal. + +I am approaching a feudal fortress. The deep moat, the turreted walls, +the old gray towers, the lattice of my lady's bower, the sentry pacing +the battlements, the warder stationed at the gate, the severe exterior +of the grim pile, the smoking hospitality that reigns within,--I +recognize them all. Much that I have taken on faith from my childhood +has already been realized since I touched English shores,--why not this? +I climb the steep slope leading to the principal entrance, and knock at +the gate. Hark! is not that the sound of an answering horn? Is not that +distant rattling the clash of armor on the stones? Do I not hear the +voice of the stout baron mustering his retainers to bid me welcome? If +so, they are a long time about it,--for I have knocked once, twice, +three times, and there is no admittance. It is a severe process, too; +for, though the original gate, which may have been an iron portcullis +for aught I know, has given place to rough boards, the latter are not +particularly tender of my knuckles, and, though romance is romance, pain +is a fact. So I fold my airy wings for the present, and look about me +for a big stone to pound with. It is of no use. The old castle is deaf +and dumb. It neither hears nor answers. I creep along the edge of a +steep bank, pry round a corner of the building, gaze up at the high +Gothic windows, but see nothing like a practicable approach, and turn +back, discouraged. We take counsel together, I and my party, and at +length condescend to the belief that our best hope of obtaining an +entrance lies in a modern farm-house, at the foot of the eminence on +which the fortress stands. The farm-house is beyond the hail of our +voices, but our coachman, who is stationed there with his post-chaise, a +witness of our embarrassment, makes an encouraging sign. That the +farm-house bears some relation to the manor-house is suggested also by +the fact that its garden boasts a yew-tree cut into the form of a +peacock, and the book of heraldry says that the crest of the noble Earls +of Rutland, who occupied the hall for centuries, includes, among its +other belongings, "a peacock, in pride, proper." + +At last, just as our impatience had reached the verge of indignation, a +little figure emerged from the shadow of the farm-house, and sauntered +towards us. She was a pretty child, a true daughter of the Saxon race, +fair-haired, blue-eyed, and sunny-complexioned. She was the pink of +neatness, too, and it was evident that the time we had spent in waiting +had been passed by her at her toilet, for the folds were still fresh in +her snowy apron, and her golden hair glistened smoothly within the bars +of a net,--that unfailing net, sure emblem of British female +nationality. Her dainty little hat was trimmed with white ribbons, which +streamed behind her in the breeze, and, altogether, she was as complete +a picture as one would wish to see of youth, health, and +self-complacency. + +The nonchalance with which she approached us was a thing I have never +seen equalled. The independence of American children is proverbial; but +democratic institutions never produced anything more saucily +self-reliant than this little Briton. Without looking at us, or deigning +any apology for the great gate,--which, it seems, is a mere barricade, +not made to be opened,--she unlocked a side-postern, a rude door, +consisting of two or three rough boards, and made a motion for us to +enter. As we trod the time-worn pavement of the outer court, and gained +an open quadrangle round which various apartments were grouped, +imagination once more took possession of me, and I found myself peopling +the place with its original inmates. + +"Oh, how old and story-like!" I exclaimed to my companions. "Can you not +imagine knights on horseback prancing over these stones, and alighting +at the great hall-door beyond?" + +"Horses never came up here!" was the interruption which my suggestion +met from our practical little guide. "Horses couldn't climb those +stairs," she added, somewhat scornfully; and I then observed that I had +unconsciously ascended a rough, angular stairway, passable only to +foot-passengers. + +Knights on foot, then, my fancy at once substituted; and as the child, +now commencing her duties as show-woman, pointed out the servants' +offices, it was no difficult matter to picture the baron's retainers +lazily grouped around the stone walls of the low cells, for such the +apartments were, polishing their master's armor, or bousing over jugs of +ale, while handsome pages loitered about the court-yard, waiting the +summons of their lord, or the sound of their lady's silver whistle. +Fancy was an indispensable attendant in making the circuit of the +apartments, which surrounded at least three sides of this outer +quadrangle. Without her aid, they were simply remarkable for their +similarity, their vacancy, their unfitness for any modern purpose save +that of sheep-pens or lumber-rooms. Destitute of windows, so that the +sun and air found admittance only through the doorway, without +fireplaces, boarded floors, or plastered walls, they presented simply so +many square feet of space walled in by stone and mortar. But Fancy had +the power to enliven, furnish, people them. She suggested that their +very number was an indication of sociability, excitement, noise, and +mirth. Here, as in all feudal dwellings, the vast disproportion between +the space allotted to the dependents and that reserved for the lord of +the manor pointed to the time when each castle was a walled city, each +baronial hall the home of a crowd of petty retainers. In that long-ago, +what multitudes of voices had stirred the silence of the court-yard! The +bare walls of the apartments then were hung with breast-plate, spear, +and cross-bow,--trophies of war and the chase furnished decorations +suited to the taste of the occupants, and the hides of slaughtered +beasts carpeted the cold floor. Stirring tales of love and warfare +gathered little knots of listeners; wandering minstrels sought +hospitality, and repaid it in songs and rhymes; the beef and the bowl +went round; my lord's jester made his privileged way into every circle +in turn, and cracked his jokes at everybody's expense; and pretty Bess, +my lady's maid, peeped in at the open door, just in time to join in the +laugh against her lover. + +But Fancy only whispered, and another little attendant, whose name was +Fact, spoke out, and interrupted her. + +"Would you like to see the family-plate?" asked our guide, with the air +of one who felt she had really nothing worth showing, but was bound to +fulfil her task; and, entering one of the stone-walled apartments, she +pointed out a few enormous pewter platters, much dimmed by time and +neglect, leaning against the wall. + +What visions of Christmas feasts and wassails these relics might have +awakened in me, had I been left to gaze on them undisturbed, it is +impossible to say; but my mind was not permitted to follow its own bent. + +"There's nicer ones down at the house, all brightened up," said the +child, with simplicity, and looking disdain at the heirlooms she was +displaying. + +The estimate put by the little girl upon the comparative value of old +pewter dishes was suggestive. Whether the farm-house had robbed the +castle, or the castle the farm-house, became at once an open question, +and romance died in doubt. + +There could be no doubt, however, as to the genuineness of the rude old +dining-hall to which we were conducted next. The clumsy oaken table +still occupied the raised end of the apartment, where the baron feasted +his principal guests. The carved and panelled gallery whence his +minstrels cheered the banquet still stood firm on its massive pillars, +and the great stags'-antlers which surmounted it told of his skill as a +sportsman. What giant logs might once have burned in the wide +fireplaces, what sounds of revelry have gone up to the bare rafters! Our +guide's tongue went glibly as she pointed out these familiar objects, +and in the kitchen, buttery, and wine-vault, which were situated +conveniently near to the dining-hall, she seemed equally at home. It was +easy to recognize in the great stone chimneys, with their heavy hooks +and cross-bars, symptoms of banquets for which bullocks were roasted +whole and sheep and calves slain by the dozen; but we needed her +practised lips to suggest the uses of the huge stone chopping-blocks, +the deeply sunk troughs, the narrow gutters that crossed the stone +pavement, all illustrative of the primitive days when butcher and cook +wrought simultaneously, and this contracted cellar served at once for +slaughter-house and kitchen. Her little airy figure was in strange +contrast with these gloomy passages, these stones that had reeked with +blood and smoke. She glided before us into the mysterious depths of the +storehouse and ale-vault, as the new moon glides among damp, black +clouds; as she directed our attention to the oaken cupboards for bread +and cheese, the stone benches that once supported long rows of casks, +the little wicket in the doorway, through which the butler doled out +provisions to a waiting crowd of poor, she might well have been likened +to a freshly trimmed lamp, lighting up the dark, mysterious past. + +Freshly trimmed she unquestionably was, and by careful hands, but not a +voluntary light; for, the moment her explanations were finished, or our +curiosity satisfied, she sank into an indifference of speech and +attitude which proved her distaste to a place and a task utterly foreign +to her nature. Evidently, the hall which we had come so far to see, and +were so eager to explore, was at once the most familiar object of her +life and her most utter aversion. She had been drilled into a mechanical +knowledge of its history, but the place itself was to her what an old +grammar or spelling-book is to the unwilling pupil,--a thing to be +learned by rote, to be abused, contemned, escaped from. As we finished +our exploration of the lower floor, she probably breathed a sigh of +relief, feeling that the first chapter of her task was concluded. + +But a second and more difficult was yet to follow,--for we now ascended +a staircase of uncemented blocks of stone, crossed a passage, and found +ourselves in a long gallery or hall, the finest and best-preserved room +in the castle, the state-apartment and ball-room of the lords of the +manor. Our admiration at once broke forth in words of surprise and +delight. The architecture of this room was of much more recent date than +that portion of the building which we had already visited. It was +Elizabethan in its style, and one of the finest specimens of the period. +It was floored and wainscoted with oak; its frieze richly carved and +adorned with boars' heads, thistles, and roses; its ceiling, also of +oak, beautifully panelled and ornamented. There was a great square +recess in the middle of the gallery, and along one side of it a row of +bow-windows, through whose diamond panes a fine view was afforded of the +quaint old garden and balconies below. Here, doubtless, knights and +dames of the olden time had danced, coquetted, quarrelled, and been +reconciled. Within those deep embrasures courtiers in ruffs and plumes +had sued for ladies' favors, and plotted deep intrigues of state. What +stories these walls could tell, had they but tongues to speak! What +dreams did their very silence conjure up! + +Led by a more erratic spirit than that even of our child-guide, I am +afraid I lent an inattentive ear to her accurate statement of the +length, breadth, and height of the gallery in which we stood, the +precise date of its erection, the noble owners of the various +coats-of-arms carved above the doorway; for I remember only that she +seemed confident and well-informed, and recited her lesson faithfully +so long as she was suffered to follow the beaten track. How impossible +it was to extract anything beyond that from her we soon had proof. + +She ushered us next into my lord's parlor, which nearly adjoined the +gallery. This room was hung with arras, retained a few articles of +ancient furniture, had one or two pictures hanging on its walls, and +presented, altogether, a more habitable look than any other portion of +the castle. Our little maid had got on well with her description of this +room, had pointed out the portrait of Prince Arthur, once a resident at +the hall, had introduced that of Will Somers, my lord's jester, as +glibly as if Will were a playmate of her own, had deciphered for us the +excellent moral precept carved in old English beneath the royal arms, +"Drede God and honour the King," and was proceeding rapidly with an +array of measurements and dates, when I unluckily interrupted her,--I +think it was to ask some question about the tapestry. She looked at me +reproachfully, indignantly,--just as a child reciting the +multiplication-table before the School-Committee would look, if tripped +up between the numbers, or as a boy, taken advantage of in play, might +cry, "No fair!" She did not condescend to answer me, perhaps she could +not, but paused a moment, reflected, went deliberately back in her +recital, repeated the last few dates and phrases by way of gaining an +impetus, and then went on without faltering to the end of her prescribed +narration. + +Poor child! She had my sympathy, and has still. What a grudge she must +owe us tourists, even the tamest and most submissive of us, for whom she +is thus compelled to tax her unwilling memory! + +But if her spirits were damped, her good-humor threatened, it was for a +minute only. Upon completing our rapid survey of my lord's parlor, and +looking round for the guide who should conduct us farther, she had +become invisible. So we moved on without her, and commenced exploring a +narrow passage with a certain sense of bewilderment at its loneliness, +and the doubt whither it might lead, when, suddenly, we were startled by +a merry laugh, which seemed to ring through the air directly above our +heads. Was it a mocking spirit that haunted the place? or one of the old +figures on the tapestry, started into life? We looked up, and there, on +a rough platform of pine boards, projecting from the wall, stood our +Fenella. She was leaning over the shoulder of an artist-boy, who, seated +at his easel, was copying one of the Gorgon-heads that stood out on the +faded tapestry. She had dismissed us wholly from her thoughts, and, +giving play to her native fun and coquetry, was taunting the youth with +the slowness of his labors and the little progress he had made since she +last inspected his work. No wonder that she laughed at the taste of the +boy or his employer. Graver heads than hers might question the motive +which had set the painter such a model. Imagination suggested that some +elfin godmother must have prescribed the task as a condition of her +future favor. At all events, the malicious sprite now acting as overseer +felt a sense of triumph in this captive boy, perched against the wall, +and condemned, like herself, to reproduce the past and bring out in +fresh colors the staring eyes and mummied cheeks which would otherwise +soon be lost to memory. She certainly made the most of her opportunity +to taunt and tease him, for there was time for a laugh and a word of +raillery only, to which he seemed too shamefaced to respond, before she +was at our side again, gravely announcing, "My lady's chamber!"--and as +we looked around the apartment, whose furniture and decorations imparted +to it a superior air of neatness and refinement to that observable +elsewhere, she pointed out to us a private doorway, conducting to a +flight of steps, and affording an exit by which "my lady" had easy +access to the court-yard, and thence to the chapel where she performed +her devotions. + +"And what are the rooms opposite?" we asked, pointing to a long row of +windows on the second floor, on the opposite side of the quadrangle to +that of which we had now completed the inspection. + +"Those rooms are never shown," was the mysterious answer. + +"But you will show them to _us_" (spoken coaxingly). + +She shook her head, and sealed her lips, with an expression of +determination. + +"What is in them?" + +"Oh, nothing in particular." + +"Then we might see them." + +No encouragement, but, on the contrary, a resolute negative. + +A bribe was held out,--for, by this time, the child's air of mystery and +reserve had suggested a closet like that of Bluebeard, a chamber of +torture, or, at least, the proofs of some family-secret. + +We might as well have offered a two-shilling bribe to the Iron Duke +himself. The miniature castle-keeper was so firm and so non-committal +that she disarmed us of all our ingenuity, defeated all our tactics, and +we gave up the point. I have since learned that this quarter of the +mansion consists of a labyrinth of rooms, shut up because devoid of +interest, and containing only some old lumber. To have conducted us +through them would have been to disobey orders, and, worse still, +establish a precedent, from which the child might well shrink. It would +have doubled her arduous round of duty. It was policy, no less than +loyalty, which had inspired her. + +So, too, when we came to inspect the chapel. She mounted an old oak +chest in the rear of the little sanctuary, just beneath the solitary +window, whose quaint patterns in stained glass pointed to centuries long +past. Seated comfortably on this elevation, she rehearsed the history +and described the architecture of the most primitive place of worship I +ever saw,--or, if she left her post to point out some minuter detail, +she returned to it as jealously as a watch-dog to some spot which he is +specially appointed to guard. When our curiosity was otherwise +satisfied,--when we had even ascended to the rude confessional, which +was a mere excavation in the soft stone of the wall,--when we had put +our hands in the hollow, not unlike a swallow's nest in a mud-bank, once +the receptacle for holy water,--when we had descended the stony pathway, +for it was so worn as scarcely to merit the name of staircase,--when, +standing once more on the chapel-pavement, with minds excited by the +thought of those monkish days when priestcraft ruled the land,--our eyes +naturally fell on the old oak chest. What further revelation might not +this disclose! What sacred relics, what curious church-plate, what +vellum manuscript, might not be hidden beneath this heavy lid! Would she +rise and let us see? + +No,--she maintained her seat and her reserve with as much rigidity as on +the former occasion. Unconvinced by this experience, our imaginations +still ran riot. They shadowed forth every possible beauty and horror +which such a giant chest might contain. The story even of "The Bride of +the Mistletoe-Bough" might be verified, if we could but get a peep. At +last we prevailed. The child was persuaded to dismount, we lifted the +cover, and the chest was empty,--literally empty. + +Once more the plain fact of the present had swept away the cobwebs of +the past, the real had banished the ideal. While the child of to-day +sought only a comfortable rest from weariness, we had been seeking +myths. She looked on as indignant as a dethroned queen. We turned away a +little mortified, and a good deal disappointed. + +But the Fenella of the castle was not so very tired, after all. True, +she was tired of the old manor-house, tired of us, tired of her own dull +routine of duty; but there was a well-spring of freshness in her yet. +She moved languidly, to be sure, as she now led the way to the tower, +the only portion of the castle yet unvisited. Following her, we +ascended, first, to a bare upper room, a sort of anteroom, from which +the ascent to the tower commenced. It presented a solid inclosure of +stone, except on the western side, where it was dimly lighted through +one or two slits in the masonry. Turning my eyes in this direction, I +saw our little guide leaning against the stone framework of one of these +chinks in the wall. The beams of western sunlight came slanting in at +precisely the angle of her figure as she leaned back in infantile +repose; her white ribbons, her snowy apron, her golden hair caught and +held the sunshine, and the ray of light which relieved the gloom of the +gray old vault seemed to emanate from the child. + +One of our party addressed some question to her regarding the probable +design of the empty room in which we stood; but there was no +answer,--not even a responsive glance. Her eyes were fixed upon the +stone roof. She looked spell-bound. Before we could follow the direction +of her steady gaze, we were startled by the flapping of wings overhead, +and, still more, by the sudden rushing forward of the child with a loud +cry of "Shoo! shoo!" and with her hands stretched eagerly into the air. +Our presence had disturbed a swallow, which had found its way in through +one of the slits, and, perhaps, built a nest in some crevice of the +wall. The girl's languor was instantaneously dispelled by the discovery +and the excitement of pursuit. Here, now, was congenial sport. Hopeless +as was the attempt to catch the bird, the joy of frightening it was +sure; and our guide sprang wildly from side to side of the building, +uttering exciting exclamations, and making vain passes at the little +creature, which flew round high above her head, now and then settling in +some secure "coigne of vantage." In these intervals we endeavored to +catch the attention of the mischievous fowler, but her task had ended +with this tower-room, she had done with us, she had found an unexpected +source of sport, and was not to be deterred from an enjoyment which she +probably thought well-earned. With one eye following the least motion of +the bird, she informed us, at last, in reply to repeated inquiries, that +there was nothing to be told about the room we were in,--that it merely +led to the tower,--we could go up into the tower, if we wished. + +She must go with us and show us the way. + +"No," was the cool reply. She never went into the tower; she never went +any farther than this. + +Glancing at the dilapidated state of the stairs leading to the +successive stones of the tower, we were almost tempted to believe that +her instinct of self-preservation had reached its climax here,--that we +might break our necks, if we liked,--she preferred not to run the risk. +Resolved to satisfy our suspicions, we pressed the point, and, after +many inquiries and waiting a considerable time upon the motions of the +child and her new plaything, we got the brief and somewhat scornful +explanation,-- + +"What if some other party should come while I was away?" + +"We part here, then?" + +She nodded in assent, received the fee for her services without +acknowledgment, and saw us depart on our breakneck expedition with an +indifference equalled only by the nonchalance with which she had +admitted us on our arrival. The moment our backs were turned, she +resumed her play. + +After exploring the successive stories of the tower in safety, we +descended by way of the anteroom, but the bird and its pursuer had both +of them flown. We passed through a door she had previously pointed out, +and gained the garden as surreptitiously as did Dorothy Vernon, of old, +when, according to the tradition, she escaped through this same doorway +on the night of her sister's nuptials, and eloped with her lover, Mr. +(afterwards Sir John) Manners, who had long been haunting the +neighboring forest as an outlaw. We strolled through the ancient garden, +all ivied and moss-grown, admired the stone balustrade, which, +time-stained and mouldy, is still the student's favorite bit of +architecture, and at last made our way back to the farm-house,--I am +sure I do not remember how, for we were as deficient in a guide as on +our first attempt at entrance. Whether another party arrived while we +were in the tower, and were engrossing her attention,--whether she was +engaged in the more agreeable office of coquetting with the young +artist, or was still chasing the swallow from room to room of the +manor-house, I do not know. We saw her no more. She had barely +condescended to let us in, and now left us to find our way out as we +could. + +She cared nothing at all for us. All the interest we had manifested in +her (and it was considerable) had failed to awaken any emotion. We were +a stereotyped feature of the old hall; and the old hall, though she had +sprung from its root, and her life had been nourished by its strength, +was no part of herself,--was her antipathy. Still I never think of the +mansion, with all the romantic associations which cluster around it, but +the image of this child comes to break my reverie, as she did on the day +when it was first indulged. + +So we go to visit some royal oak, and bring away, as a memento, the +daisy which blooms at its foot; so we stand, as the reward of toil and +fatigue, upon an Alpine glacier, and the trophy and pledge of our visit +are the forget-me-not that grew on its margin. Thus youth and beauty +ever press on the footsteps of old age, and youth and beauty bear away +the palm. + +My faith in legendary lore is confirmed, when I call to mind the Gothic +fortress, with its strong defences against the enemy, its rude +suggestions of centuries of hospitality, its tower-lattices, whence +generation after generation of high-born maids waved signals to knightly +lovers, its stairways, worn slippery with the tread of heavy-mailed +warriors, its chapel-vault, where chivalrous lord and noble dame have +turned to dust. But there is a faith more precious than the faith in old +song and legend; and the golden-haired child, who flourishes so fresh +and fair amidst all this ruin and decay, stands forth to my mind as an +emblem of that power which renovates earth and defies time. Had she been +a pattern child, had her instructors (whoever they were) succeeded in +moulding her into a mere machine, she might not so vividly have roused +my interest; but there was something in her saucy independence, her +wayward freaks, her coquettish airs, her fiery chase after the swallow, +which--breaking in, as they did, upon the docility with which she +otherwise went through her round of duty--revivified the desolation of +the old hall with a sudden outburst of humanity. Everywhere else the +fountain of life seemed to have died out, but here it gushed forth a +living stream. + +We gaze down the centuries and see in them ignorance, error, warning, +and ruin at last. What hope for the race, then, if this were all? But it +is not all. The child's foot treading lightly over the graves is the +type of the _time-is_ triumphing over the _time-was_. Full of faults and +imperfections, she is still the daughter of Hope and Opportunity. She +has the past for her teacher, and the door of knowledge, repentance, and +faith stands open before her. Thus childhood is the rainbow of God's +providence, and the brightest feature of His covenant with men. + +Silence, desolation, and decay have set their seal upon old Haddon Hall, +but chance has set a child over them all, and the lesson her simple +presence teaches is worth more to me than all the Idyls of the King. + +And thus it is that I treasure up the memory of her among my catalogue +of guides; and so she did more for me than she promised, when she +undertook to lend me her light through the old Hall. + +If there are any who can live without thus borrowing, then let them +disparage guides. For the rest, the best guide is Humility. We have all +so many dark paths to tread from the cradle to the grave, that we need +to lay hold on all the helps we can. Groping blindly down the avenues +of Time, who is there that does not long to grasp some friendly hand, or +follow in the track of some traveller familiar with the way? + +For me, Experience is a staff on which I am glad to lean, Simplicity is +an unfailing leader where Learning might go astray. Trust is a lamp that +burns through the darkest night; and sometimes, when strong men are weak +and wise men foolish, strength and wisdom are given unto babes, and he +whom the counsels of the elders cannot save may walk the narrowest path +in safety with his hand in the hand of a little child. + +God grant me guides, then, to my journey's end! God guide us all, +whether we will or no! guide the nations, and make for them a way +through the dust, the turmoil, and the strife which Time has heaped in +their path, to the freshness and promise of the new birth! guide each +poor yearning soul through the darkness and doubt that overshadow it, as +it journeys on to the clear light of immortal day! + + + + +THE KALIF OF BALDACCA. + + + Into the city of Kambalu, + By the road that leadeth to Ispahan, + At the head of his dusty caravan, + Laden with treasure from realms afar, + Baldacca and Kelat and Kandahar, + Rode the great captain Alau. + + The Khan from his palace-window gazed: + He saw in the thronging street beneath, + In the light of the setting sun, that blazed + Through the clouds of dust by the caravan raised, + The flash of harness and jewelled sheath, + And the shining scimitars of the guard, + And the weary camels that bared their teeth, + As they passed and passed through the gates unbarred + Into the shade of the palace-yard. + + Thus into the city of Kambalu + Rode the great captain Alau; + And he stood before the Khan, and said,-- + "The enemies of my lord are dead; + All the Kalifs of all the West + Bow and obey his least behest; + The plains are dark with the mulberry-trees, + The weavers are busy in Samarcand, + The miners are sifting the golden sand, + The divers are plunging for pearls in the seas, + And peace and plenty are in the land. + + "Only Baldacca's Kalif alone + Rose in rebellion against thy throne: + His treasures are at thy palace-door, + With the swords and the shawls and the jewels he wore; + His body is dust o'er the Desert blown. + + "A mile outside of Baldacca's gate + I left my forces to lie in wait, + Concealed by forests and hillocks of sand, + And forward dashed with a handful of men + To lure the old tiger from his den + Into the ambush I had planned. + Ere we reached the town the alarm was spread, + For we heard the sound of gongs from within; + With clash of cymbals and warlike din + The gates swung wide; we turned and fled, + And the garrison sallied forth and pursued, + With the gray old Kalif at their head, + And above them the banner of Mahomed: + Thus we snared them all, and the town was subdued. + + "As in at the gate we rode, behold, + A tower that was called the Tower of Gold! + For there the Kalif had hidden his wealth, + Heaped and hoarded and piled on high, + Like sacks of wheat in a granary; + And there the old miser crept by stealth + To feel of the gold that gave him health, + To gaze and gloat with his hungry eye + On jewels that gleamed like a glow-worm's spark, + Or the eyes of a panther in the dark. + + "I said to the Kalif,--'Thou art old, + Thou hast no need of so much gold. + Thou shouldst not have heaped and hidden it here, + Till the breath of battle was hot and near, + But have sown through the land these useless hoards + To spring into shining blades of swords, + And keep thine honor sweet and clear. + These grains of gold are not grains of wheat; + These bars of silver thou canst not eat; + These jewels and pearls and precious stones + Cannot cure the aches in thy bones, + Nor keep the feet of Death one hour + From climbing the stairways of thy tower!' + + "Then into this dungeon I locked the drone, + And left him to feed there all alone + In the honey-cells of his golden hive: + Never a prayer, nor a cry, nor a groan + Was heard from those massive walls of stone, + Nor again was the Kalif seen alive! + + "When at last we unlocked the door, + We found him dead upon the floor; + The rings had dropped from his withered hands, + His teeth were like bones in the Desert sands; + Still clutching his treasures he had died; + And as he lay there, he appeared + A statue of gold with a silver beard, + His arms outstretched as if crucified." + + This is the story, strange and true, + That the great captain Alau + Told to his brother the Tartar Khan, + When he rode that day into Kambalu + By the road that leadeth to Ispahan. + + + + +LIFE ON THE SEA ISLANDS. + + +PART II. + +A few days before Christmas, we were delighted at receiving a beautiful +Christmas Hymn from Whittier, written by request, especially for our +children. They learned it very easily, and enjoyed singing it. We showed +them the writer's picture, and told them he was a very good friend of +theirs, who felt the deepest interest in them, and had written this hymn +expressly for them to sing,--which made them very proud and happy. Early +Christmas morning, we were wakened by the people knocking at the doors +and windows, and shouting, "Merry Christmas!" After distributing some +little presents among them, we went to the church, which had been +decorated with holly, pine, cassena, mistletoe, and the hanging moss, +and had a very Christmas-like look. The children of our school assembled +there, and we gave them the nice, comfortable clothing, and the +picture-books, which had been kindly sent by some Philadelphia ladies. +There were at least a hundred and fifty children present. It was very +pleasant to see their happy, expectant little faces. To them, it was a +wonderful Christmas-Day,--such as they had never dreamed of before. +There was cheerful sunshine without, lighting up the beautiful +moss-drapery of the oaks, and looking in joyously through the open +windows; and there were bright faces and glad hearts within. The long, +dark night of the Past, with all its sorrows and its fears, was +forgotten; and for the Future,--the eyes of these freed children see no +clouds in it. It is full of sunlight, they think, and they trust in it, +perfectly. + +After the distribution of the gifts, the children were addressed by some +of the gentlemen present. They then sang Whittier's Hymn, the "John +Brown" song, and several of their own hymns, among them a very singular +one, commencing,-- + + "I wonder where my mudder gone; + Sing, O graveyard! + Graveyard ought to know me; + Ring, Jerusalem! + Grass grow in de graveyard; + Sing, O graveyard! + Graveyard ought to know me; + Ring, Jerusalem!" + +They improvise many more words as they sing. It is one of the strangest, +most mournful things I ever heard. It is impossible to give any idea of +the deep pathos of the refrain,-- + + "Sing, O graveyard!" + +In this, and many other hymns, the words seem to have but little +meaning; but the tones,--a whole lifetime of despairing sadness is +concentrated in them. They sing, also, "Jehovyah, Hallelujah," which we +like particularly:-- + + "De foxes hab holes, + An' de birdies hab nes', + But de Son ob Man he hab not where + To lay de weary head. + + CHORUS. + + "Jehovyah, Hallelujah! De Lord He will purvide! + Jehovyah, Hallelujah! De Lord He will purvide!" + +They repeat the words many times. "De foxes hab holes," and the +succeeding lines, are sung in the most touching, mournful tones; and +then the chorus--"Jehovyah, Hallelujah"--swells forth triumphantly, in +glad contrast. + +Christmas night, the children came in and had several grand shouts. They +were too happy to keep still. + +"Oh, Miss, all I want to do is to sing and shout!" said our little pet, +Amaretta. And sing and shout she did, to her heart's content. + +She read nicely, and was very fond of books. The tiniest children are +delighted to get a book in their hands. Many of them already know their +letters. The parents are eager to have them learn. They sometimes said +to me,-- + +"Do, Miss, let de chil'en learn eberyting dey can. _We_ nebber hab no +chance to learn nuttin', but we wants de chil'en to learn." + +They are willing to make many sacrifices that their children may attend +school. One old woman, who had a large family of children and +grandchildren, came regularly to school in the winter, and took her seat +among the little ones. She was at least sixty years old. Another +woman--who had one of the best faces I ever saw--came daily, and brought +her baby in her arms. It happened to be one of the best babies in the +world, a perfect little "model of deportment," and allowed its mother to +pursue her studies without interruption. + +While taking charge of the store, one day, one of the men who came in +told me a story which interested me much. He was a carpenter, living on +this island, and just before the capture of Port Royal had been taken by +his master to the mainland,--"the Main," as the people call it,--to +assist in building some houses which were to shelter the families of the +Rebels in case the "Yankees" should come. The master afterward sent him +back to the island, providing him with a pass, to bring away a boat and +some of the people. On his arrival he found that the Union troops were +in possession, and determined to remain here with his family instead of +returning to his master. Some of his fellow-servants, who had been left +on "the Main," hearing that the Federal troops had come, resolved to +make their escape to the islands. They found a boat of their master's, +out of which a piece six feet square had been cut. In the night they +went to the boat, which had been sunk in a creek near the house, +measured the hole, and, after several nights' work in the woods, made a +piece large enough to fit in. They then mended and sank it again, as +they had found it. The next night five of them embarked. They had a +perilous journey, often passing quite near the enemy's boats. They +travelled at night, and in the day ran close up to the shore out of +sight. Sometimes they could hear the hounds, which had been sent in +pursuit of them, baying in the woods. Their provisions gave out, and +they were nearly exhausted. At last they succeeded in passing all the +enemy's boats, and reached one of our gun-boats in safety. They were +taken on board and kindly cared for, and then sent to this island, where +their families, who had no hope of ever seeing them again, welcomed them +with great rejoicing. + +We were also told the story of two girls, one about ten, the other +fifteen, who, having been taken by their master up into the country, on +the mainland, at the time of the capture of the islands, determined to +try to escape to their parents, who had been left on this island. They +stole away at night, and travelled through woods and swamps for two +days, without eating. Sometimes their strength gave out, and they would +sink down, thinking they could go no farther; but they had brave little +hearts, and got up again and struggled on, till at last they reached +Port-Royal Ferry, in a state of utter exhaustion. They were seen there +by a boat-load of people who were also making their escape. The boat was +too full to take them in; but the people, on reaching this island, told +the children's father of their whereabouts, and he immediately took a +boat, and hastened to the ferry. The poor little creatures were almost +wild with joy when they saw him. When they were brought to their mother, +she fell down "jes' as if she was dead,"--so our informant expressed +it,--overpowered with joy on beholding the "lost who were found." + + * * * * * + +New-Year's-Day--Emancipation-Day--was a glorious one to us. The morning +was quite cold, the coldest we had experienced; but we were determined +to go to the celebration at Camp Saxton,--the camp of the First Regiment +South-Carolina Volunteers,--whither the General and Colonel Higginson +had bidden us, on this, "the greatest day in the nation's history." We +enjoyed perfectly the exciting scene on board the Flora. There was an +eager, wondering crowd of the freed people in their holiday-attire, with +the gayest of head-handkerchiefs, the whitest of aprons, and the +happiest of faces. The band was playing, the flags streaming, everybody +talking merrily and feeling strangely happy. The sun shone brightly, the +very waves seemed to partake of the universal gayety, and danced and +sparkled more joyously than ever before. Long before we reached Camp +Saxton we could see the beautiful grove, and the ruins of the old +Huguenot fort near it. Some companies of the First Regiment were drawn +up in line under the trees, near the landing, to receive us. A fine, +soldierly-looking set of men; their brilliant dress against the trees +(they were then wearing red pantaloons) invested them with a +semi-barbaric splendor. It was my good fortune to find among the +officers an old friend,--and what it was to meet a friend from the +North, in our isolated Southern life, no one can imagine who has not +experienced the pleasure. Letters were an unspeakable luxury,--we +hungered for them, we could never get enough; but to meet old +friends,--that was "too much, too much," as the people here say, when +they are very much in earnest. Our friend took us over the camp, and +showed us all the arrangements. Everything looked clean and comfortable, +much neater, we were told, than in most of the white camps. An officer +told us that he had never seen a regiment in which the men were so +honest. "In many other camps," said he, "the colonel and the rest of us +would find it necessary to place a guard before our tents. We never do +it here. They are left entirely unguarded. Yet nothing has ever been +touched." We were glad to know that. It is a remarkable fact, when we +consider that these men have all their lives been _slaves_; and we know +what the teachings of Slavery are. + +The celebration took place in the beautiful grove of live-oaks adjoining +the camp. It was the largest grove we had seen. I wish it were possible +to describe fitly the scene which met our eyes as we sat upon the stand, +and looked down on the crowd before us. There were the black soldiers in +their blue coats and scarlet pantaloons, the officers of this and other +regiments in their handsome uniforms, and crowds of lookers-on,--men, +women, and children, of every complexion, grouped in various attitudes +under the moss-hung trees. The faces of all wore a happy, interested +look. The exercises commenced with a prayer by the chaplain of the +regiment. An ode, written for the occasion by Professor Zachos, was read +by him, and then sung. Colonel Higginson then introduced Dr. Brisbane, +who read the President's Proclamation, which was enthusiastically +cheered. Rev. Mr. French presented to the Colonel two very elegant +flags, a gift to the regiment from the Church of the Puritans, +accompanying them by an appropriate and enthusiastic speech. At its +conclusion, before Colonel Higginson could reply, and while he still +stood holding the flags in his hand, some of the colored people, of +their own accord, commenced singing, "My Country, 'tis of thee." It was +a touching and beautiful incident, and sent a thrill through all our +hearts. The Colonel was deeply moved by it. He said that that reply was +far more effective than any speech he could make. But he did make one of +those stirring speeches which are "half battles." All hearts swelled +with emotion as we listened to his glorious words,--"stirring the soul +like the sound of a trumpet." + +His soldiers are warmly attached to him, and he evidently feels towards +them all as if they were his children. The people speak of him as "the +officer who never leaves his regiment for pleasure," but devotes +himself, with all his rich gifts of mind and heart, to their interests. +It is not strange that his judicious kindness, ready sympathy, and rare +fascination of manner should attach them to him strongly. He is one's +ideal of an officer. There is in him much of the grand, knightly spirit +of the olden time,--scorn of all that is mean and ignoble, pity for the +weak, chivalrous devotion to the cause of the oppressed. + +General Saxton spoke also, and was received with great enthusiasm. +Throughout the morning, repeated cheers were given for him by the +regiment, and joined in heartily by all the people. They know him to be +one of the best and noblest men in the world. His Proclamation for +Emancipation-Day we thought, if possible, even more beautiful than the +Thanksgiving Proclamation. + +At the close of Colonel Higginson's speech he presented the flags to the +color-bearers, Sergeant Rivers and Sergeant Sutton, with an earnest +charge, to which they made appropriate replies. We were particularly +pleased with Robert Sutton, who is a man of great natural intelligence, +and whose remarks were simple, eloquent, and forcible. + +Mrs. Gage also uttered some earnest words; and then the regiment sang +"John Brown" with much spirit. After the meeting we saw the +dress-parade, a brilliant and beautiful sight. An officer told us that +the men went through the drill remarkably well,--that the ease and +rapidity with which they learned the movements were wonderful. To us it +seemed strange as a miracle,--this black regiment, the first mustered +into the service of the United States, doing itself honor in the sight +of the officers of other regiments, many of whom, doubtless, "came to +scoff." The men afterwards had a great feast, ten oxen having been +roasted whole for their especial benefit. + +We went to the landing, intending to take the next boat for Beaufort; +but finding it very much crowded, waited for another. It was the +softest, loveliest moonlight; we seated ourselves on the ruined wall of +the old fort; and when the boat had got a short distance from the shore +the band in it commenced playing "Sweet Home." The moonlight on the +water, the perfect stillness around, the wildness and solitude of the +ruins, all seemed to give new pathos to that ever dear and beautiful old +song. It came very near to all of us,--strangers in that strange +Southern land. After a while we retired to one of the tents,--for the +night-air, as usual, grew dangerously damp,--and, sitting around the +bright wood-fire, enjoyed the brilliant and entertaining conversation. +Very unwilling were we to go home; for, besides the attractive society, +we knew that the soldiers were to have grand shouts and a general +jubilee that night. But the Flora was coming, and we were obliged to say +a reluctant farewell to Camp Saxton and the hospitable dwellers therein, +and hasten to the landing. We promenaded the deck of the steamer, sang +patriotic songs, and agreed that moonlight and water had never looked so +beautiful as on that night. At Beaufort we took the row-boat for St. +Helena; and the boatmen, as they rowed, sang some of their sweetest, +wildest hymns. It was a fitting close to such a day. Our hearts were +filled with an exceeding great gladness; for, although the Government +had left much undone, we knew that Freedom was surely born in our land +that day. It seemed too glorious a good to realize,--this beginning of +the great work we had so longed and prayed for. + + * * * * * + +L. and I had one day an interesting visit to a plantation about six +miles from ours. The house is beautifully situated in the midst of noble +pine-trees, on the banks of a large creek. The place was owned by a very +wealthy Rebel family, and is one of the pleasantest and healthiest on +the island. The vicinity of the pines makes it quite healthy. There were +a hundred and fifty people on it,--one hundred of whom had come from +Edisto Island at the time of its evacuation by our troops. There were +not houses enough to accommodate them, and they had to take shelter in +barns, out-houses, or any other place they could find. They afterwards +built rude dwellings for themselves, which did not, however, afford them +much protection in bad weather. The superintendent told us that they +were well-behaved and industrious. One old woman interested us greatly. +Her name was Daphne; she was probably more than a hundred years old; had +had fifty grandchildren, sixty-five great-grandchildren, and three +great-great-grandchildren. Entirely blind, she yet seemed very cheerful +and happy. She told us that she was brought with her parents from Africa +at the time of the Revolution. A bright, happy old face was hers, and +she retained her faculties remarkably well. Fifteen of the people had +escaped from the mainland in the previous spring. They were pursued, and +one of them was overtaken by his master in the swamps. A fierce grapple +ensued,--the master on horseback, the man on foot. The former drew a +pistol and shot his slave through the arm, shattering it dreadfully. +Still, the heroic man fought desperately, and at last succeeded in +unhorsing his master, and beating him until he was senseless. He then +made his escape, and joined the rest of the party. + +One of the most interesting sights we saw was a baptism among the +people. On one Sunday there were a hundred and fifty baptized in the +creek near the church. They looked very picturesque in their white +aprons and bright frocks and handkerchiefs. As they marched in +procession down to the river's edge, and during the ceremony, the +spectators, with whom the banks were crowded, sang glad, triumphant +songs. The freed people on this island are all Baptists. + +We were much disappointed in the Southern climate. We found it much +colder than we had expected,--quite cold enough for as thick winter +clothing as one would wear at the North. The houses, heated only by open +fires, were never comfortably warm. In the floor of our sitting-room +there was a large crack through which we could see the ground beneath; +and through this and the crevices of the numerous doors and windows the +wind came chillingly. The church in which we taught school was +particularly damp and cold. There was no chimney, and we could have no +fire at all. Near the close of the winter a stove came for us, but it +could not be made to draw; we were nearly suffocated with smoke, and +gave it up in despair. We got so thoroughly chilled and benumbed within, +that for several days we had school out-of-doors, where it was much +warmer. Our school-room was a pleasant one,--for ceiling the blue sky +above, for walls the grand old oaks with their beautiful +moss-drapery,--but the dampness of the ground made it unsafe for us to +continue the experiment. + +At a later period, during a few days' visit to some friends living on +the Milne Plantation, then the head-quarters of the First +South-Carolina, which was on picket-duty at Port-Royal Ferry, we had an +opportunity of seeing something of Port-Royal Island. We had pleasant +rides through the pine barrens. Indeed, riding on horseback was our +chief recreation at the South, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. The +"Secesh" horses, though small, poor, and mean-looking, when compared +with ours, are generally excellent for the saddle, well-trained and very +easy. I remember particularly one ride that we had while on Port-Royal +Island. We visited the Barnwell Plantation, one of the finest places on +the island. It is situated on Broad River. The grounds are extensive, +and are filled with magnificent live-oaks, magnolias, and other trees. +We saw one noble old oak, said to be the largest on these islands. Some +of the branches have been cut off, but the remaining ones cover an area +of more than a hundred feet in circumference. We rode to a point whence +the Rebels on the opposite side of the river are sometimes to be seen. +But they were not visible that day; and we were disappointed in our +long-cherished hope of seeing a "real live Rebel." On leaving the +plantation, we rode through a long avenue of oaks,--the moss-hung +branches forming a perfect arch over our heads,--and then for miles +through the pine barrens. There was an Italian softness in the April +air. Only a low, faint murmur--hardly "the slow song of the sea"--could +be heard among the pines. The ground was thickly carpeted with ferns of +a vivid green. We found large violets, purple and white, and azaleas of +a deeper pink and heavier fragrance than ours. It was leaving Paradise, +to emerge from the beautiful woods upon the public road,--the shell-road +which runs from Beaufort to the Ferry. Then we entered a by-way leading +to the plantation, where we found the Cherokee rose in all its glory. +The hedges were white with it; it canopied the trees, and hung from +their branches its long sprays of snowy blossoms and dark, shining +leaves, forming perfect arches, and bowers which seemed fitting places +for fairies to dwell in. How it gladdened our eyes and hearts! It was as +if all the dark shadows that have so long hung over this Southern land +had flitted away, and, in this garment of purest white, it shone forth +transfigured, beautified, forevermore. + +On returning to the house, we were met by the exciting news that the +Rebels were bringing up pontoon-bridges, and were expected to attempt +crossing over near the Ferry, which was only two or three miles from us. +Couriers came in every few moments with various reports. A +superintendent whose plantation was very near the Ferry had been +watching through his glass the movements on the opposite side, and +reported that the Rebels were gathering in large force, and evidently +preparing for some kind of demonstration. A messenger was despatched to +Beaufort for reinforcements, and for some time we were in a state of +expectancy, not entirely without excitement, but entirely without fear. +The officers evidently enjoyed the prospect of a fight. One of them +assured me that I should have the pleasure of seeing a Rebel shell +during the afternoon. It was proposed that the women should be sent into +Beaufort in an ambulance; against which ignoble treatment we indignantly +protested, and declared our intention of remaining at our post, if the +Colonel would consent; and finally, to our great joy, the best of +colonels did consent that we should remain, as he considered it quite +safe for us to do so. Soon a light battery arrived, and during the +evening a brisk firing was kept up. We could hear the explosion of the +shells. It was quite like being in the war; and as the firing was +principally on our side, and the enemy was getting the worst of it, we +rather enjoyed it. For a little while the Colonel read to us, in his +spirited way, some of the stirring "Lays of the Old Cavaliers." It was +just the time to appreciate them thoroughly, and he was of all men the +fittest person to read them. But soon came a courier, "in hot haste," to +make report of the doings without, and the reading was at an end. In the +midst of the firing, Mrs. D. and I went to bed, and slept soundly until +morning. We learned afterward that the Rebels had not intended to cross +over, but were attempting to take the guns off one of our boats, which +they had sunk a few days previous. The timely arrival of the battery +from Beaufort prevented them from accomplishing their purpose. + + * * * * * + +In April we left Oaklands, which had always been considered a +particularly unhealthy place during the summer, and came to "Seaside," a +plantation on another and healthier part of the island. The place +contains nearly a hundred people. The house is large and comparatively +comfortable. Notwithstanding the name, we have not even a distant +glimpse of the sea, although we can sometimes hear its roar. At low tide +there is not a drop of water to be seen,--only dreary stretches of +marsh-land, reminding us of the sad outlook of Mariana in the Moated +Grange,-- + + "The level waste and rounding gray." + +But at night we have generally a good sea-breeze, and during the hottest +weather the air is purer and more invigorating than in many parts of the +island. + +On this, as on several other large plantations, there is a +"Praise-House," which is the special property of the people. Even in the +old days of Slavery, they were allowed to hold meetings here; and they +still keep up the custom. They assemble on several nights of the week, +and on Sunday afternoons. First, they hold what is called the +"Praise-Meeting," which consists of singing, praying, and preaching. We +have heard some of the old negro preachers make prayers that were really +beautiful and touching. In these meetings they sing only the +church-hymns which the Northern ministers have taught them, and which +are far less suited to their voices than their own. At the close of the +Praise-Meeting they all shake hands with each other in the most solemn +manner. Afterward, as a kind of appendix, they have a grand "shout," +during which they sing their own hymns. Maurice, an old blind man, leads +the singing. He has a remarkable voice, and sings with the greatest +enthusiasm. The first shout that we witnessed in the Praise-House +impressed us very much. The large, gloomy room, with its blackened +walls,--the wild, whirling dance of the shouters,--the crowd of dark, +eager faces gathered around,--the figure of the old blind man, whose +excitement could hardly be controlled, and whose attitude and gestures +while singing were very fine,--and over all, the red glare of the +burning pine-knot, which shed a circle of light around it, but only +seemed to deepen and darken the shadows in the other parts of the +room,--these all formed a wild, strange, and deeply impressive picture, +not soon to be forgotten. + +Maurice's especial favorite is one of the grandest hymns that we have +yet heard:-- + + "De tallest tree in Paradise + De Christian calls de Tree ob Life, + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem. + + CHORUS. + + "Blow, Gabriel! trumpet, blow louder, louder! + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem! + + "Paul and Silas jail-bound + Sing God's praise both night and day, + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem. + + CHORUS. + + "Blow, Gabriel! trumpet, blow louder, louder! + An' I hope dat trumpet blow me home + To my New Jerusalem!" + +The chorus has a glad, triumphal sound, and in singing it the voice of +old Maurice rings out in wonderfully clear, trumpet-like tones. His +blindness was caused by a blow on the head from a loaded whip. He was +struck by his master in a fit of anger. "I feel great distress when I +become blind," said Maurice; "but den I went to seek de Lord; and eber +since I know I see in de next world, I always hab great satisfaction." +We are told that the master was not a "hard man" except when in a +passion, and then he seems to have been very cruel. + +One of the women on the place, Old Bess, bears on her limbs many marks +of the whip. Some of the scars are three and four inches long. She was +used principally as a house-servant. She says, "Ebery time I lay de +table I put cow-skin on one end, an' I git beatin' and thumpin' all de +time. Hab all kinds o' work to do, and sich a gang [of children] to look +after! One person couldn't git along wid so much work, so it go wrong, +and den I git beatin'." + +But the cruelty of Bess's master sinks into insignificance, when +compared with the far-famed wickedness of another slave-holder, known +all over the island as "Old Joe Eddings." There seem to have been no +bounds to his cruelty and licentiousness; and the people tell tales of +him which make one shudder. We were once asking some questions about him +of an old, half-witted woman, a former slave of his. The look of horror +and loathing which overspread her face was perfectly indescribable, as, +with upraised hands, she exclaimed, "What! Old Joe Eddings? Lord, +Missus, he second to none in de world but de Debil!" She had, indeed, +good cause to detest him; for, some years before, her daughter, a young +black girl, maddened by his persecutions, had thrown herself into the +creek and been drowned, after having been severely beaten for refusing +to degrade herself. Outraged, despised, and black, she yet preferred +death to dishonor. But these are things too heart-sickening to dwell +upon. God alone knows how many hundreds of plantations, all over the +South, might furnish a similar record. + + * * * * * + +Early in June, before the summer heat had become unendurable, we made a +pleasant excursion to Edisto Island. We left St. Helena village in the +morning, dined on one of the gun-boats stationed near our island, and in +the afternoon proceeded to Edisto in two row-boats. There were six of +us, besides an officer and the boats' crews, who were armed with guns +and cutlasses. There was no actual danger; but as we were going into the +enemy's country, we thought it wisest to guard against surprises. After +a delightful row, we reached the island near sunset, landing at a place +called Eddingsville, which was a favorite summer resort with the +aristocracy of Edisto. It has a fine beach several miles in length. +Along the beach there is a row of houses, which must once have been very +desirable dwellings, but have now a desolate, dismantled look. The +sailors explored the beach for some distance, and returned, reporting +"all quiet, and nobody to be seen"; so we walked on, feeling quite safe, +stopping here and there to gather the beautiful tiny shells which were +buried deep in the sands. + +We took supper in a room of one of the deserted houses, using for seats +some old bureau-drawers turned edgewise. Afterward we sat on the piazza, +watching the lightning playing from a low, black cloud over a sky +flushed with sunset, and listening to the merry songs of the sailors who +occupied the next house. They had built a large fire, the cheerful glow +of which shone through the windows, and we could see them dancing, +evidently in great glee. Later, we had another walk on the beach, in the +lovely moonlight. It was very quiet then. The deep stillness was broken +only by the low, musical murmur of the waves. The moon shone bright and +clear over the deserted houses and gardens, and gave them a still wilder +and more desolate look. + +We went within-doors for the night very unwillingly. Having, of course, +no beds, we made ourselves as comfortable as we could on the floor, with +boat-cushions, blankets, and shawls. No fear of Rebels disturbed us. +There was but one road by which they could get to us, and on that a +watch was kept, and in case of their approach, we knew we should have +ample time to get to the boats and make our escape. So, despite the +mosquitoes, we had a sound night's sleep. + +The next morning we took the boats again, and followed the course of the +most winding of little creeks. In and out, in and out, the boats went. +Sometimes it seemed as if we were going into the very heart of the +woods; and through the deep silence we half expected to hear the sound +of a Rebel rifle. The banks were overhung with a thick tangle of shrubs +and bushes, which threatened to catch our boats, as we passed close +beneath their branches. In some places the stream was so narrow that we +ran aground, and then the men had to get out, and drag and pull with all +their might before we could be got clear again. After a row full of +excitement and pleasure, we reached our place of destination,--the +Eddings Plantation, whither some of the freedmen had preceded us in +their search for corn. It must once have been a beautiful place. The +grounds were laid out with great taste, and filled with fine trees, +among which we noticed particularly the oleander, laden with deep +rose-hued and deliciously fragrant flowers, and the magnolia, with its +wonderful, large blossoms, which shone dazzlingly white among the dark +leaves. We explored the house,--after it had first been examined by our +guard, to see that no foes lurked there,--but found nothing but heaps of +rubbish, an old bedstead, and a bathing-tub, of which we afterward made +good use. When we returned to the shore, we found that the tide had gone +out, and between us and the boats lay a tract of marsh-land, which it +would have been impossible to cross without a wetting. The gentlemen +determined on wading. But what were we to do? In this dilemma somebody +suggested the bathing-tub, a suggestion which was eagerly seized upon. +We were placed in it, one at a time, borne aloft in triumph on the +shoulders of four stout sailors, and safely deposited in the boat. But, +through a mistake, the tub was not sent back for two of the ladies, and +they were brought over on the crossed hands of two of the sailors, in +the "carry-a-lady-to-London" style. Again we rowed through the windings +of the creek, then out into the open sea, among the white, exhilarating +breakers,--reached the gun-boat, dined again with its hospitable +officers, and then returned to our island, which we reached after +nightfall, feeling thoroughly tired, but well pleased with our +excursion. + +From what we saw of Edisto, however, we did not like it better than our +own island,--except, of course, the beach; but we are told that farther +in the interior it is much more beautiful. The freed people, who left it +at the time of its evacuation, think it the loveliest place in the +world, and long to return. When we were going, Miss T.--the much-loved +and untiring friend and physician of the people--asked some whom we met +if we should give their love to Edisto. "Oh, yes, yes, Miss!" they said. +"Ah, Edisto a beautiful city!" And when we came back, they inquired, +eagerly,--"How you like Edisto? How Edisto stan'?" Only the fear of +again falling into the hands of the "Secesh" prevents them from +returning to their much-loved home. + + * * * * * + +As the summer advanced, the heat became intense. We found it almost +overpowering, driving to school near the middle of the day, as we were +obliged to do. I gave up riding, and mounted a sulky, such as a single +gentleman drives in at the North. It was exceedingly high, and I found +it no small task to mount up into it. Its already very comical +appearance was enhanced by the addition of a cover of black India-rubber +cloth, with which a friend kindly provided me. Thus adorned, it looked +like the skeleton of some strange creature surmounted by a huge bonnet, +and afforded endless amusement to the soldiers we chanced to meet, who +hailed its appearance with shouts of laughter, and cries of "Here comes +the Calithumpian!" This unique vehicle, with several others on our +island, kindred, but not quite equal to it, would create a decided +sensation in the streets of a Northern city. + +No description of life on these islands would be complete without a word +concerning the fleas. They appeared at the opening of spring, and kept +constantly "risin'," as the people said, until they reached a height the +possibility of which we had never conceived. We had heard and read of +fleas. We had never _realized_ them before. Words utterly fail to +describe the tortures we endured for months from these horrible little +tyrants. Remembering our sufferings "through weary day and weary +_night_," we warn everybody not gifted with extraordinary powers of +endurance to beware of a summer on the Sea Islands. + +Notwithstanding the heat, we determined to celebrate the Fourth of July +as worthily as we could. The freed people and the children of the +different schools assembled in the grove near the Baptist Church. The +flag was hung across the road, between two magnificent live-oaks, and +the children, being grouped under it, sang "The Star-Spangled Banner" +with much spirit. Our good General could not come, but addresses were +made by Mr. P.,--the noble-hearted founder of the movement for the +benefit of the people here, and from first to last their stanch and +much-loved friend,--by Mr. L., a young colored minister, and others. +Then the people sang some of their own hymns; and the woods resounded +with the grand notes of "Roll, Jordan, roll." They all afterward partook +of refreshments, consisting of molasses and water,--a very great luxury +to them,--and hardtack. + +Among the visitors present was the noble young Colonel Shaw, whose +regiment was then stationed on the island. We had met him a few nights +before, when he came to our house to witness one of the people's shouts. +We looked upon him with the deepest interest. There was something in his +face finer, more exquisite, than one often sees in a man's face, yet it +was full of courage and decision. The rare and singular charm of his +manner drew all hearts to him. He was deeply interested in the singing +and appearance of the people. A few days afterwards we saw his regiment +on dress-parade, and admired its remarkably fine and manly appearance. +After taking supper with the Colonel we sat outside the tent, while some +of his men entertained us with excellent singing. Every moment we became +more and more charmed with him. How full of life and hope and lofty +aspirations he was that night! How eagerly he expressed his wish that +they might soon be ordered to Charleston! "I do hope they will give _us_ +a chance," he said. It was the desire of his soul that his men should do +themselves honor,--that they should prove themselves to an unbelieving +world as brave soldiers as though their skins were white. And for +himself, he was like the Chevalier of old, "without reproach or fear." +After we had mounted our horses and rode away, we seemed still to feel +the kind clasp of his hand,--to hear the pleasant, genial tones of his +voice, as he bade us good-bye, and hoped that we might meet again. We +never saw him afterward. In two short weeks came the terrible massacre +at Fort Wagner, and the beautiful head of the young hero and martyr was +laid low in the dust. Never shall we forget the heart-sickness with +which we heard of his death. We could not realize it at first,--we, who +had seen him so lately in all the strength and glory of his young +manhood. For days we clung to a vain hope; then it fell away from us, +and we knew that he was gone. We knew that he died gloriously, but still +it seemed very hard. Our hearts bled for the mother whom he so +loved,--for the young wife, left desolate. And then we said, as we say +now,--"God comfort them! He only can." During a few of the sad days +which followed the attack on Fort Wagner, I was in one of the hospitals +of Beaufort, occupied with the wounded soldiers of the Fifty-Fourth +Massachusetts. The first morning was spent in mending the bullet-holes +and rents in their clothing. What a story they told! Some of the jackets +of the poor fellows were literally cut in pieces. It was pleasant to see +the brave, cheerful spirit among them. Some of them were severely +wounded, but they uttered no complaint; and in the letters which they +dictated to their absent friends there was no word of regret, but the +same cheerful tone throughout. They expressed an eager desire to get +well, that they might "go at it again." Their attachment to their young +colonel was beautiful to see. They felt his death deeply. One and all +united in the warmest and most enthusiastic praise of him. He was, +indeed, exactly the person to inspire the most loyal devotion in the +hearts of his men. And with everything to live for, he had given up his +life for them. Heaven's best gifts had been showered upon him, but for +them he had laid them all down. I think they truly appreciated the +greatness of the sacrifice. May they ever prove worthy of such a leader! +Already, they, and the regiments of freedmen here, as well, have shown +that true manhood has no limitations of color. + + * * * * * + +Daily the long-oppressed people of these islands are demonstrating their +capacity for improvement in learning and labor. What they have +accomplished in one short year exceeds our utmost expectations. Still +the sky is dark; but through the darkness we can discern a brighter +future. We cannot but feel that the day of final and entire deliverance, +so long and often so hopelessly prayed for, has at length begun to dawn +upon this much-enduring race. An old freedman said to me one day, "De +Lord make me suffer long time, Miss. 'Peared like we nebber was gwine to +git troo. But now we's free. He bring us all out right at las'." In +their darkest hours they have clung to Him, and we know He will not +forsake them. + + "The poor among men shall rejoice, + For the terrible one is brought to nought." + +While writing these pages I am once more nearing Port Royal. The +Fortunate Isles of Freedom are before me. I shall again tread the +flower-skirted wood-paths of St. Helena, and the sombre pines and +bearded oaks shall whisper in the sea-wind their grave welcome. I shall +dwell again among "mine own people." I shall gather my scholars about +me, and see smiles of greeting break over their dusk faces. My heart +sings a song of thanksgiving, at the thought that even I am permitted to +do something for a long-abused race, and aid in promoting a higher, +holier, and happier life on the Sea Islands. + + + + +A FAST-DAY AT FOXDEN. + + +I. + +Colonel Elijah Prowley, like all good and true genealogists, held the +mother-country in tender reverence. For, if there be any truth in the +well-known _mot_ which calls Paris the Paradise of virtuous Yankees, it +is limited to a few city-bucks of mongrel caste. England must be the +Promised Land for the genuine representative of the Puritan. Whatever we +may have felt about her lately,--and I confess there have been times +when the declaration of the Fee-Faw-Fum giant of nursery-romance seemed +to be of a moral and praiseworthy character,--there is no doubt, that, +in the year of grace of which I write, and in the regards of many +ratherish-scholarly gentlemen of our country-towns, the British Islands +were the nearest terrestrial correspondences to the Islands of the +Blest. About the massive Past Colonel Prowley never ceased to thrust his +epistolary tendrils. Was not Great Britain a genealogical hunting-ground +where game of rarest plumage might be started? Was not a +family-connection with Sir Walter Raleigh (whose name should be written +_Praleigh_, a common corruption of "Prowley" in the sixteenth century) +susceptible of the clearest proof? There were, in fact, few +distinguished Englishmen of the present day, who, if a provoking +ancestor or two could be unearthed, might not be shown to have the +Prowley fluid in their veins. To many of these eminent personages the +head of the American branch of the family had written, and with several +he had succeeded in establishing a correspondence. Old sermons, moral +obituaries of public characters, celebrations of centennial +anniversaries, and heavy reading of like description, constantly left +the Foxden Post-Office addressed to the British Museum. The printed +formulas of acknowledgment which arrived in return were preserved as the +rarest treasures. + +And in fulness of time all this corresponding and presenting produced a +glorious result. Elijah Prowley, of Foxden, was chosen an Honorary +Member of the Royal Society of British Sextons,--an association than +which there is none more mouldy in the whole world. Certainly, this was +glory enough for any Western genealogist,--yet Fortune had a higher +gratification to bestow. For, in His Worship, the Most Primordial, the +High Senior Governour and Primitive Patriarch of all Sextons, Colonel +Prowley soon discovered a relative of his own. Sir Joseph Barley, a +rubicund old knight, and the Most Primordial in question, after an +elaborate investigation and counter-investigation, a jockeying of the +wits of very old women, and a raid into divers registers, scrolls, +schedules, archives, and the like,--Sir Joseph Barley, I say, turned out +to be _a long-lost cousin_. "Barley," it appeared, had anciently been +written "Parley," and "Praley," and even "Proley." Having arrived at +this point, Sir Joseph conjectured that his ancestor Proley might have +dropped a _w_ out of his name, and the Colonel conjectured that his +progenitor, the Puritan, might have put one into his. Now it did not +matter which was right, for, as was convincingly underscored in one of +my letters from Foxden, "_upon either hypothesis_, the relationship of +the Barleys of Old England to the Prowleys of New England was positively +established." + +And so Sir Joseph Barley was dead! + +Although shocked, when the fact of his demise was abruptly announced in +the familiar chirography of my old friend, I was unable to prevent a +certain sense of the grotesque from mingling with the idea. A portrait +in pastel, which hung over the chimney-piece in the Colonel's study, had +given me a thorough acquaintance with the outward Sir Joseph. That +brief, but bulky figure, clad in official robes as High Senior +Governour, that weighty seal of the Sextons which dangled from the fob, +those impressive spectacles with the glasses cut in parallelograms, +above all, that full-blown face blandly contemplating our American +rudeness like a smiling Phoebus from British skies,--how could all +these things, which had so individualized the natural body of Sir Joseph +Barley, be dispensed with in its spiritual counterpart? No answer to +such question,--only the grim facts, that one brother more had "gone +over to the majority," and that the living minority got on very +comfortably without him. Comfortably? Ay, truly; for in the very letter +that brought the news I was begged to spend the approaching Fast-Day in +Foxden, just as if nothing had happened. The season, so I was assured, +was unusually advanced, and already the flavor of spring was perceptible +in the air; moreover, the different congregations in town were to unite +in services at the Orthodox Church, and, by extraordinary favor, one of +the Colonel's Boston correspondents, no less a man than the +distinguished Dr. Burge, was to preach the sermon. + +A noble specimen of our New-England clergy was this Dr. Burge. He held +the old creed-formulas through which Wilson and Mather declared their +faith, yet warmed them into ruddy life by whatever fire the last +transcendental Prometheus or Comte-devoted scientist filched from aerial +or material heaven. A good diner-out, a good visitor among the poor. His +parishioners supplied him with a wood-fire, a saddle-horse, and, it was +maliciously said, a boxing-master; and he, on his part,--so ran the idle +rumor of the street,--covenanted never to call upon them for cod-liver +oil, Bourbon whiskey, or a tour to Europe. In his majestic presence +there was a total impression sanative to body and soul. The full powers +of manner and tone, of pause and emphasis, were at his command. He would +rise in a shingled meeting-house as effective as choir, organ, and +sacerdotal vestments in full cathedral-service. I was glad to learn that +this stalwart servant of the Word would be at Foxden. He had formerly +been well acquainted with the Reverend Charles Clifton, late pastor of a +church in that place. He might deal wisely with the evil intelligence, +or, possibly, the infatuated egotism, which controlled that unfortunate +man. Dr. Burge would possess his soul in calmness in presence of the +singular epidemic which was then running through Foxden, as it had +previously run through, and run out of, other river-towns. + +And now it has come in my way to speak of that strange murmuring of +phantoms and their attendant seers, psychometers, and dactylomancers, +which in these latter days has revived among us. And what I may have to +say about what is called Spiritualism will reflect actual observations. +I do not forget that to the advocacy of the "New Dispensation" are +devoted many men of earnestness and a few of ability. It is possible +that the facts they build upon may render mine exceptional and +unimportant. What is here set down is but a trifling contribution to +that mass of human testimony and human opinion from which the truth must +be finally elicited. + +Mr. Stellato had been celestially commissioned to Barnum the spirits in +their Foxden exhibitions. Two years previously this gentleman was to be +seen at the head of a fanatical and tumultuary offshoot from a cause the +most humane and noble. He had done whatever his slender abilities +permitted to bring into discredit large-hearted and devoted men and +women whom history will honorably remember as New-England Reformers. But +to lead anything on a large scale, without a continual winding-up by his +companion, the fibrous Mrs. Romulus, was beyond the crassitude of +Stellato's pursy nature. Now it had come to pass that this acidulated +lady, essaying fresh flurries of progression, discovering higher +passional affinities and new duties of demolition, proving that in +Church and State every brick was loose and every timber rotten, +testifying ever to the existence of a certain harmonial mortar by which +the rubbish of a demolished civilization could be rebuilt into +unexceptionable forms,--it happened that this woman, having towered for +one proud moment at the very apex of her mission, slipped suddenly into +the Romish communion, and was no more seen of men. Stellato, perceiving +that the peculiar machinery be had been taught to manage was now out of +repair and impracticable, looked about for some new invention whereby to +gain a livelihood from the credulity of his neighbors. "The spirits," +then at the height of their profit and renown, were adapted to his +purpose. A blank and vacant mind was freely offered to any power of +earth or air which would condescend to enter and possess it. And so Mr. +Stellato, with his three parts knavery and two parts delusion, became a +popular and successful ghost-monger. + +The parsonage had been closed since Charles Clifton terminated his +connection with the parish two years before. The newest lights of the +Liberal persuasion, fledglings from divinity-schools, youths of every +possible variety of creed and no creed, had by turns occupied the vacant +pulpit. The Gospel vibrated at all points between the interpretations of +Calvin and Strauss. The congregation grew more and more critical, and +could agree upon no candidate for settlement. They demanded the +respectability of belief with the showy talents of skepticism,--an +impossible combination, at least for a parish which offered only eight +hundred dollars and a decrepit house. At length Colonel Prowley took a +pew in the Orthodox Church;--it was a temporary arrangement, he said, to +be terminated whenever a settled minister should be provided for the +First Parish. + +The Reverend Charles Clifton seldom left the rooms which he had taken in +a farmer's family on the outskirts of the town. We have seen how this +man had once believed that Providence had called him to an exceptional +and brilliant destiny. The total renouncement of what once glowed as a +mission requires a sturdy nature and plenty of active work. Clifton +possessed an exceeding susceptibility of nervous organization; he was +full of subtile intimations of what was passing in the minds of other +men, and at times seemed to have a strange power of controlling them. +The deep passion for metaphysical knowledge, which in his youth had been +kindled, was stilled, but never overcome. Wifeless, childless, he was +put under no bonds to struggle with the world. He knew the coldness of +the church in which he had been ordained to minister,--the hard and +dreary lives of those whom he had undertaken to illumine. But he made +the fatal mistake--inexcusable, it would seem, in a man of his liberal +nurture--of supposing that this world's evil was owing to the absence of +right opinion, and not of right feeling. It is to be feared that it was +not principle, but only a paroxysm of cowardice, which caused Clifton to +bury Vannelle's legacy in the Mather Safe. At all events, the minister +found himself unable to dismiss a certain thin and impalpable fantasy +which lingered behind that ponderous speculation of an all-embracing +philosophy. For the past two years he had fitfully sought, or rather +persuaded himself that he sought, some clue through the sad labyrinth of +his fate. He had indulged in the most morbid conditions of his physical +organism; there was neither steadiness in his purpose nor firmness in +his action. He yearned for that proximity to hidden things, which, if +not forbidden to all men, yet is dangerous to most men. At length he +succeeded in freeing his soul from the weight of conscious intellectual +life which had become too heavy for it to bear. And while the Foxden +people were wondering about the occupation of a late pastor in one of +their churches, and inquiring of each other whether he would again speak +before them, their gossiping solicitude was suddenly set at rest. +Printed show-bills were posted about the streets: "Grand Festival of +Spiritualists at the Town Hall." "The Reverend Charles Clifton will +speak"--a line of largest type gloated upon the scandal--"IN A +TRANCE-STATE." + +"I really ought to apologize," said Colonel Prowley, upon opening the +hall-door for my admittance, on the afternoon of the second Wednesday in +April, and this after repeated summons had been sounded by the brazen +knocker,--"I ought to apologize for keeping you here so long; but there +has been so much knocking about the house of late, and our cook and +housemaid having turned out to be such excellent mediums, taking just as +much interest in their circle down-stairs as we do in ours in the +parlor, and then Mrs. Colfodder being so positive that it was either Sir +Joseph Barley or Roger Williams,--though I am sure neither of them ever +knocked half so satisfactorily before, and besides"---- + +"My dear Sir," interrupted I, "no excuse is necessary. I have +seen enough of 'the spirits' to know how they put aside all +conventionalities. I should have accompanied Dr. Burge to the hotel, had +I anticipated disturbing the circle which, I infer, is at present in +session." + +"You would have grieved me very much by doing so," rejoined the kind old +gentleman. "Dr. Burge dines with me to-morrow, and I confess--not yet +calling myself a convert to these miracles which are now vouchsafed in +Foxden--it would not be amiss to rid my premises of the amiable +magicians congregated in my parlor before a minister were invited to +enter. But a layman, as I take it, might witness these thaumaturgical +matters without scandal,--nay, perchance you may help me to that +wholesome credence in their reality which my celestial visitants so +unceasingly demand." + +Colonel Prowley was in the state of mind not unusual to many +well-meaning, unoccupied people, when this modern necromancy was thrust +upon them by those pecuniarily or socially interested in its advocacy. +The upheaval to the air of that dark inward nature which is ever working +in us,--the startling proof of that loudly proclaimed, faintly realized +truth, that this mind, so pervading every fibre of the body, is yet +separate in its essence,--the novel gratification of the petty vanities +and petty questionings which beset undecided men,--what wonder that +persons not accustomed to sound analysis of evidence should be beguiled +by these subtilest adaptations to their conditions, and hold dalliance +with the feeble shades that imposture or enthusiasm vended about the +towns? Historical personages--a nerveless mimicry of the conventional +stage-representation of them--stalked the Colonel's parlor. Departed +friends, Indians _a discretion_, local celebrities, Deacon Golly, who in +the year '90 took the ten first shares in the Wrexford Turnpike, the +very Pelatiah Brimble from whom "Brimble's Corner" had taken its name, +the identical Timson forever immortal in "Timson's Common,"--these +defunct worthies were audibly, visibly, or tangibly present, pecking at +great subjects in ghostly feebleness, swimming in Tupperic dilutions of +cheapest wisdom, and finally inducing in their patrons strange +derangements of mind and body. + +The circle, which was very select, consisted of three highly susceptible +ladies and Stellato as medium-in-chief. Miss Turligood, a sort of +Oroveso to the Druidical chorus, was a muscular spinster, fierce and +forty, sporting steel spectacles, a frizette of the most scrupulous +honesty, and a towering comb which formed what the landscape-gardeners +call "an object" in the distance. Next this commanding lady, with fat +hands sprawled upon the table, sat Mrs. Colfodder, widow, according to +the flesh, of a respectable Foxden grocer. By later spiritual +communications, however, it appeared that matters stood very +differently; for no sooner had the departed Colfodder looked about him a +little in the world to come than he proceeded to contract marriage with +Queen Elizabeth of England, thereby leaving his mortal relict quite free +to receive the addresses of the late Lord Byron, whose proposals were of +the most honorable as well as amatory character. Miss Branly, by far the +most pleasing of the lady-patronesses, was a fragile, stove-dried +mantua-maker,--and, truly, it seemed something like poetic justice to +recompense her depressed existence with the satisfactions of a material +heaven full of marryings and givings in marriage. + +"Will Sir Joseph tip for us again?" inquired Miss Turligood, with her +eyes fixed upon a crack in the mahogany table. "Will he? Will he not? +Will he?" + +Sir Joseph vouchsafed no answer. + +"Hark! wasn't that a rap?" cried Stellato, in a husky whisper. + +Here every one pricked an ear towards the table. + +"Doctor Franklin, is that you?" + +"The Doctor promised to be present to give a scientific and +philosophical view of these communications," parenthesized the +interrogator. + +"Doctor Franklin, is that _you_?" + +A faint creaking is audible. + +"Byron's sign, as I'm a living woman!" ejaculated the Widow Colfodder. + +"Her spiritual partner and guardian-angel," explained Miss +Turligood,--and this for my satisfaction as the last-comer. + +Direct examination by the widow:-- + +"Have you brought your patent lyre here to-night?" + +For the enlightenment of the company:-- + +"He played the lyre so beautiful on earth, that when he got to the +spheres a committee gave him a golden one, with all the modern +improvements." + +Question concerning the lyre repeated. A mysterious rubbing interpreted +as an affirmative reply. + +"Have you brought Pocahontas with you? (she 'most always comes with +him)--and if so, can she kiss me to-night?" + +The table is exceedingly doubtful. + +"Could she kiss Colonel Prowley, or even pull his hair a little?" + +No certainty of either. + +"Can she kiss Miss Turligood?" + +The table is satisfied that it couldn't be done. + +"Let me try her," urged Stellato, with the confidence of an expert; then +in seductive tones,-- + +"Couldn't Pocahontas kiss Miss Branly, if all the lights were put out?" + +Pocahontas thought it highly probable that she could. + +Here some interesting badgering. Miss Branly declined being kissed in +the dark. Miss Turligood thought it would be very satisfactory, if she +would, and couldn't see why any one should object to it. She (Miss +Turligood) would willingly be kissed in the dark, or in the light, in +furtherance of scientific investigation. + +Stellato suggested a compromise. + +"Might not the kissing be done through a medium?" + +At first the table thought it couldn't, but afterwards relented, and +thought it might. + +"Would Pocahontas appoint that medium?" + +She would. + +"Should the alphabet be called?" + +It should not. + +"Would the table tip towards the medium indicated?" + +It could not be done. + +"Should somebody call over the names of all mediums present, and would +the table tip at the right one?" + +Ah, that was it! + +"I suppose you and I have no share in this Gift Enterprise," whispered +Colonel Prowley. + +"Order! order!" shouted Miss Turligood, glancing in our direction with +great severity. "This general conversation cannot be permitted. We are +about to have a most interesting manifestation.--Pocahontas, do you wish +me to call over the names?" + +Pocahontas did not object. + +"Very well, then, you will tip when I come to the name of the medium +through whom you consent to kiss Miss Sarah Branly?" + +Pocahontas certainly would. + +"Is it Mrs. Colfodder?" + +No reply. + +"Is it I, Eugenia Turligood?" + +No, it certainly was not. + +"Well, then, I suppose it must be Mr. Stellato!" + +Here the table was violently convulsed, as if somebody were pulling it +very hard upon Mr. Stellato's side, and somebody else holding it with +rigid firmness upon the other. + +"_Is_ it Mr. Stellato?" + +Convulsion repeated. + +"I don't think you stopped long enough at Mrs. Colfodder's name," +interposed Miss Branly. "I am sure the table was going to move, if you +had given it time." + +"Nothing easier than to try again," responded Miss Turligood. "Is it +Mrs. Colfodder?" + +This time the table fairly sprang into the lap of the lady indicated. + +And so that worthy widow arose and saluted--or rather Pocahontas, +through her mediumship, arose and saluted--Miss Sarah Branly. And the +skeptic will please take notice that this extraordinary manifestation is +neither enlarged nor magnified, but that it actually happened precisely +as is here set down. + +After this, Mr. Stellato, being put under inspiration, delivered a +discursive homily upon the "New Dispensation" which was at present +vouchsafed to the citizens of Foxden. He testified to the great relief +of getting clear of the "Old Theology,"--meaning thereby such +interpretations of Scripture as are held by the mass of our New-England +churches. Moreover, he would announce his personal satisfaction in +having, under spiritual guidance, eradicated every vestige of belief in +hell,--a circumstance upon which, it is needless to say, that a +gentleman of his profession might be honestly congratulated. With a +view, as I could not help thinking, to my peculiar necessities, Stellato +finally enlarged upon what he termed "the principle of the thing," or, +as he otherwise phrased it, "a scientific explanation of the way the +spirits worked mediums,"--"_sperrets_" and "_meejums_" according to +celestial pronunciation, but I am loath to disturb the carnal +orthography. This philosophical exposition, drawled forth in +interminable sentences, was a dark doctrine to the uninitiated. There +was a good deal about "Essences," which, at times, seemed to relate to +the perfumery vended in the fancy-department of apothecaries' shops, and +then again to some obscure matters of "Zones," "Interiors," "Magnetic +Relations," and the like. The central revelation, if I remember rightly, +had to do with a sort of putty, by which, according to the Stellato +cosmogony, Chaos had been stuck together into a Universe. This adhesive +composition was known as "Detached Vitalized Electricity." And having +got upon this sounding title, which conveyed no meaning whatever to the +"undeveloped" understanding, Stellato was profuse in windy talk. This +Detached Vitalized Electricity, spread out over space, connected the +parts of all systems; it appeared at that very instant in the form of +"power" about Miss Turligood's head; in short, it diluted all stray bits +of modern rhetoric, all exploded feats of ancient magic, into the +thinnest of spiritual gruel, which was to supersede the strong meat upon +which the Puritan walked before his Maker. + +Somebody summoned the eminent Twynintuft. Like every spirit that was +ever called for, this ex-elocutionist happened to be within a few +seconds' flight of the circle, and had nothing in the world to do but to +swoop down and tip as long as the company could possibly endure him. + +The following information was elicited by affirmative or negative +replies to the interrogatories of those present:-- + +The spirit communicating was Twynintuft, grandfather to Mrs. Widesworth. +Was unable to give his Christian name. Thought Mrs. Colfodder's lungs in +a healthy condition. Could not undertake to move the table when no hands +were upon it. If the room were made totally dark, would attempt that +curious experiment. Was unable to give the maiden name of his earthly +wife. Thought Mr. Stellato was a healing-medium of great power. Had been +something of a Root-Doctor when in the body, and would gladly prescribe +through that gentleman for the cure of all diseases. Considered mineral +medicines destructive to the vital principle. Doctor Dastick, being a +drug-doctor, would not be recognized by any medical association in the +spheres. Would give any information about the fixed stars. The +inhabitants of the Milky Way telegraphed to each other by means of the +Detached Vitalized Electricity. Also, they bottled up the same to cure +humors. Would privately impart their recipe to Mr. Stellato. It could +not be afforded upon this earth at less than three dollars a bottle. +Would, however, authorize an exception in favor of clergymen, when they +gave certificates of cures. _The spirits did not recognize +Fast-Day_,--it was a remnant of the Old Mythological Religion. Demanded +further investigation, and promised greater marvels in future. + +Here Miss Turligood became violently convulsed, and, having slapped the +table some forty times or more, seized a pencil and began to write:-- + + "DEAR PROWLEY,--Surrounded by a bank of + silver-tunicked attendants, I hover near you. The atmosphere is + redolent of costly herbs, which, with the well-known rotary + motion of the earth, impart density and spacefulness to our + spheral persons: this is the philosophy of our presence. Many + shining friends, supported upon fluted pillars, are with you + this evening. These grieve at your lack of faith, and flap + gold-bespattered wings in unison. Spherically yours, + + "SIR JOSEPH BARLEY." + +"Why does he sign himself _Sir_?" inquired Colonel Prowley, rather taken +aback at the sudden termination of this exquisite composition. + +It was evidently an oversight, for the medium's hand erased the +offending title. + +"When did Sir Joseph die?" I ventured to ask. + +"That I cannot tell you," replied his late correspondent. "I have heard +nothing from him for several months. When he last wrote, he was +suffering under a severe influenza which must have terminated fatally. +But why not ask _him_ the question?" + +"That is just my purpose.--Sir Joseph Barley, can you give me the date +of your death?" + +"It is hard for spirits to give numbers," said Mr. Stellato. + +"It is sometimes done by tips," quoth Miss Turligood. + +I pressed the demand, and, after much cajoling and counting, a certain +day of March was fixed upon. + +"Can you give me the place?" + +I was instructed to call over the names of such foreign cities as I +might remember, and assured that Sir Joseph would tip at the right one. + +It turned out to be "London." + +"And now, Sir Joseph, could you oblige me with the name of the physician +who attended your last sickness?" + +But no sooner had I propounded this final query than Mr. Stellato +declared his consciousness of a skeptical influence in the company which +would go far to impede other manifestations. Where people were not +harmonial, he explained, the Detached Vitalized Electricity being unable +to unite with the Imponderable Magnetic Fluid given off by mediums, +satisfactory results could not be obtained. + +"But we have at least obtained this satisfaction," said I, addressing +Colonel Prowley: "Sir Joseph has committed himself about the day and +place of his decease. You must soon hear from some member of his family. +If these particulars have been correctly given, there will be, at least, +the beginning of evidence upon which to establish his identity." + +Mrs. Colfodder was so shocked with the perversity of unbelief which she +detected in this harmless remark, that, nudging Miss Branly, she +solemnly arose and moved to break up the circle for the night. And as it +was already past nine o'clock, no violent objection was made to the +proposition. + +"The circle will meet in this place to-morrow morning at eight o'clock, +for the pursuance of further investigations," proclaimed Miss Turligood, +in sonorous accents. + +"Fast-Day, Madam," mildly suggested Colonel Prowley. + +"The spirits do not recognize Fast-Day. Tomorrow at eight o'clock. In +this place. Let every medium be punctual. It is to be _hoped_ that the +_conditions_ will _then_ be _favorable_!" + +This latter aspiration, with its feminine redundancy of emphasis, was +cast in my direction, as Miss Turligood swept haughtily from the room. + +Her final exit, however, was neither curt nor in any way effective. For +it was no easy matter to gather up the bags, parcels, shawls, and other +devices which the good lady had brought with her and scattered about the +entry. One India-rubber shoe in particular eluded our search, till I was +ready to admit the supposition that the spirits had carried it off, as +entirely reasonable and satisfactory. A good-natured Irishman, servant +to Miss Turligood, who had come with a lantern to see her home, at +length discovered this missing bit of apparel upon Miss Branly's +foot,--that medium, as it appeared, having in a fit of abstraction +appropriated three. Finally the lantern glimmered down the gravel-walk, +and Mr. Stellato, with a lady upon each arm, was persuaded to follow it. +It was waking from a nightmare to get rid of them. + +"Over at last!" exclaimed Miss Prowley, when we returned to the +drawing-room. She had been sitting in silence in an obscure corner, and +I had scarcely realized her presence. "Over at last! and of all +fatiguing and unprofitable employments that the folly of man ever +devised, this trifling with spirits is certainly the chief." + +"Nay, my dear," urged the brother, in his placid way, "these good people +who have fastened themselves upon us seem so anxious to continue the +investigation that I cannot find it in my heart to refuse them. I _did_ +wish, to be sure, that we might have our Fast-Day in quiet; but Miss +Turligood, who knows much more about the matter than we do, thinks the +spirits would not like it, if we did, and so--although we will absent +ourselves from the sitting long enough to go to church--we must really +make the best of it, and receive the circle." + +"You speak like a believer, Colonel Prowley," I said. + +"No, not quite that," replied the old gentleman,--"yet, truly, I +sometimes hardly know why I am not. The knockings alone are quite +inexplicable; and when it comes to a fiery hand ringing the dinner-bell, +which Stellato can show in the dark----Besides, there are the +communications from distinguished characters, many of them so very +important and interesting. To be sure, my poor cousin Barley did not do +himself justice this evening, though some of his ideas were very +poetical; but, really, the other night, when he told us how much the +Royal Sextons were thought of in the spheres, and repeated that very +high compliment which Thomas Herne paid to my family-history, it all +seemed so marvellous, and yet so natural, that I could not help +subscribing pretty handsomely to the cause." + +"And one of the privileges that your subscription has gone to purchase I +am yet to enjoy. Dr. Burge wished me to visit, in his company, your +former pastor, Mr. Clifton,--and we must look for him, as I see, at the +Spiritualists' Festival in the Town Hall." + +"Sad! sad!" cried Colonel Prowley, thoughtfully chewing upon my remark. +"It is an abiding shame for a minister of the gospel to meddle with +these things, except, possibly, in the way of exorcism. Truly, a deep +humiliation has fallen upon the town." + +And the chagrin of this respected gentleman was wholly sincere. The +Puritanical distinction between clergy and laity had scarcely faded in +his mind. The pastor of the First Church had belonged to a cherished +class,--a class whose moral and intellectual consequence must be +maintained by avoidance of all dangerous inquiries, common interests, +and secular amusements. A minister attending a Jenny-Lind +Charity-Concert in a play-house, or leading armed men in the most sacred +cause for which human blood might be shed,--what offences would these +have been to this titular Colonel of Foxden, who had won his honors by a +six-months' finery and dining as aide-de-camp to some forgotten +Governor! + +"I fear I shall not be back before you wish to close the house." + +"Never mind, you remember the old arrangement: door-key under the +scraper,--light burning in the drawing-room." + +With hearty thanks I went forth to keep my appointment with Dr. Burge. + + +II. + +The narrative here takes us to a portion of the shadowy perturbation +which any who have turned these pages as a fictitious rendering of the +grotesque in experience will do well to omit. Only a mortifying, though +perchance salutary, sense of human infirmity comes from beholding one +set over the people as intercessor and counsellor struggling in the +meshes of that snare which the Enemy had spread for the undisciplined +and wandering multitude. No, not even struggling now. That Clifton had +fought through solitary days against the wretched enervation which +invited him, I had reason to know. But he had dared to tamper with the +normal functions of mind and body, to try fantastic tricks with that +mysterious agent through which the healthy will commands the organism. +And when the mental disorder, mocked at and preached against in happier +years, at length ran through Foxden, the morbid condition of his system +was powerless to resist the contagion. + +And let us not overlook the fact that in these manifestations there was +to be found a palpable reality, a positive marvel, well calculated to +lay hold of a skeptic like Clifton. His early associations with the +Transcendentalists had undermined his faith in all popular presentations +of Christianity. But his peculiarly emotional nature could never dwell +in that haziness of opinion upon august subjects in which sounder men +among the brethren made out to live cheerfully and to work vigorously. +While Clifton madly sought a position of intelligence and satisfaction +beyond the reach of humanity, the necessary abstraction enlarged and +stimulated his reasoning powers. But the penalty was to be paid. For +with terrible recoil from its tension his mind contracted to far less +than normal limits. Then came a listless vacuity, a tawdry dreaminess. +And this poor minister, who flattered himself that he had outgrown every +graceful and touching form with which human affection or human infirmity +had clothed the Christian idea, stumbled amid the rubbish of an effete +heathenism, with its Sibylline contortions and tripod-responses, which +the best minds of Pagan civilization found no difficulty in pronouncing +a delusion and a lie. + +I knew Dr. Burge for one of those most useful instructors who will +patiently examine with the intellect what the instinct teaches them to +condemn. He seldom helped the doctrine he assailed by denying it such +facts as were true and such attractions as were real. He had cheerfully +accepted whatever reproach came to him from frequenting circles in the +attempt to see the mystery from the believers' point of view. I was not +surprised at finding him upon one of the back benches in the Town Hall. + +"Nothing noteworthy," he said, as I joined him. "Only women have +spoken,--the excited nervous system careering without restraint,--no +spirits yet." + +"They pretend inspiration, I suppose." + +"Oh, yes; and it is not surprising that semi-educated people, ignorant +of analogous phenomena, should take the _omne ignotum pro magnifico_." + +"Yet you are said to be a believer in the possession which the mediums +claim?" + +"Certainly," replied Dr. Burge, "and to just this extent:--I do not +doubt the possibility of intercourse between man and the lower grades of +immaterial life, and I am willing to adopt this hypothesis to explain +any occurrence where the facts demand it. That, in rare cases, such may +be the most simple and natural supposition, I readily admit. The +ordinary performances, however, may be accounted for without calling in +god or demon to untie the knot." + +I remarked that Mr. Clifton was not to be seen upon the platform. + +"He is kept out of the way until the last,--in the Selectmen's Room, as +I am told, and alone." + +"I fear all appeal would now be in vain; yet, Sir, I would not have you +spare an effort to awaken him to the peril of his course." + +"Let us go to him, then," assented Dr. Burge. + +Upon common occasions, the Selectmen's Room failed to suggest any +exceptional character in its occupants. It was a narrow, ill-lighted, +unventilated apartment, bitter with the after-taste of taxes, +prophetically flavorous of taxes yet to be. Stove-accommodation beyond +the criticism of the most fastidious salamander, a liberal sprinkling of +sand with a view to the ruminant necessities of the town-patricians, two +or three stiff armchairs with straws protruding from their well-worn +cushions, intolerant benches for unofficial occupancy,--altogether a +gloomy aggregate result of the diverse ideals of social well-being to be +found among the inhabitants of Foxden. But now I recognized a new +element in this familiar chamber; a strange contagion hung about the +walls; a something which imparted delicate edge to the nervous system +was perceptible in the dry heat of the air. Near an oracular table, +which bore evidence of recent manipulation, stood the Reverend Charles +Clifton: others had evidently been with him before our entrance; he was +now alone. An oil-lamp sputtered feebly in the corner. The stove-devil +glared at us through his one glazed eye, and puffed out his mephitic +welcome as I shut the door. + +"Clifton, my old friend!" exclaimed Dr. Burge. + +The person addressed raised his head, half closed his eyes, as one who +endeavors to fix objects which are flitting before him. It seemed +necessary to withdraw his inward gaze from some delicious dazzlement of +dream-land. At last he spoke slowly and with effort. + +"Burge, you here?--and one of us?" + +"Heaven forbid!" cried my companion. "I but look upon these things for +my own warning, and in the way of my duty as teacher to those who might +be disposed to tamper with unknown powers, within or without." + +"Say, rather, to melt the iron links which gyve soul to body," said +Clifton, in constrained articulation, through which a moaning undertone +seemed ever trying to be heard. "Say, rather, to produce a finer +exaltation than wine, opium, or hashish,--for it is most sweet to +subject the animal organism to the control of spirit-wills." + +"A grateful doctrine to those who dare to substitute a morbid +receptivity for an active endeavor!" + +"It is to soothe the sense-powers, so that others may use them to give +us intimations far beyond their common capacity." + +"'_I_ keep under my body and bring it into subjection,'" quoted Dr. +Burge, emphasizing the personal pronoun. "The Apostle declares that his +own immortal individuality alone controls his members,--and why? 'lest, +when I have preached unto others, I myself should become a castaway.'" + +The Doctor delivered the last sentence with rich cathedral-emphasis, and +with the full unction of priestly authority. + +Clifton, or whatever vague and dusky power controlled him, cowered at +the rebuke. The nervous energy with which he had experimented, or which +he had left passive for the experiments of others, seemed withdrawn from +his frame. + +Dr. Burge perceived his advantage, and continued:-- + +"I speak to you, my fallen brother, as I cannot speak to the foolish +people who grope in this miasma of delusion. Silly women, yielding to +the natural vanity of their sex, may mistake hysterics for inspiration. +Vacillating and vacant men may seek a new sensation by encouraging a +revival of the demoniacal epidemics of heathendom. But you, who have +been a preacher of the gospel, though, as I must now more than ever +believe, after a devitalized and perverted method,--you, to leave the +honest work of a dweller upon earth, to chatter of immensity, to weaken +the brain that it may no longer separate the true from the +false!--believe me, Clifton, you have been bought by the shallowest +promises which the King of Evil ever exchanged for a sacred and +inviolable soul." + +"You have spoken according to your business," replied Mr. Clifton, +impatiently. "You, who begin by assuming the impossibility of +spirit-intercourse since Bible times, with what candor can you examine +the facts we build upon?" + +"I make no such assumption," was the rejoinder. "Has it not been +foretold that 'in the latter times some shall depart from the faith, +giving heed to seducing spirits and doctrines of devils'? Have we not +aforetime been vexed with them in this very New England? For I almost +justify Mather's words, when he stigmatizes the necromancy of his day as +'a terrible Plague of Evil Angels,' or, in still plainer speech, as 'a +prodigious descent of devils upon divers places near the centre of this +Province.' And how better can we characterize this confused and +distracting babblement which gives no good gift to man?" + +"It has given him this," exclaimed Clifton, advancing towards Dr. Burge, +and seeming for a few moments to resume his old personality,--"it has +given him the knowledge of a life to come! You think it, preach it, +believe it,--but you do not _know_ it. A susceptibility to impressions +from the inmost characters of men has been mine through life. It has +been given me to perceive what facts and feelings most deeply adhered in +the mental consciousness. And I tell you, Burge, ministers both of your +communion and of mine repeat the old words of sublimest assurance, sway +congregations with descriptions bright or lurid of future worlds, yet +behind all this glowing speech and blatant confidence there has +lurked,--oh, will you deny it?--there has lurked a grovelling doubt of +man's immortality." + +"I will not deny it," said Dr. Burge, with slow solemnity. "Sinners that +we are, how can we ask that faith be at no moment confused by the +thousand cries of infidelity which our profession requires us to answer? +Let my soul be chilled by transient shades of skepticism, rather than +dote in a blind and puerile credulity! If I am not at all times equally +penetrated by the great fact of man's conscious immortality, it is +because of my undesert. A way to _know_ of the doctrine has been +revealed: it is by doing the will of the Father: who of us has fulfilled +the condition? But I can meet you on lower ground, and declare, that, +according to our human observation, it is not well for man to _know_ the +destiny of his being in all its details until the trials and victories +of life have taught him to turn such knowledge to elevating use. It is +the deplorable sinfulness of our nature which seeks to obtain without +deserving, to possess the end and despise the appointed means." + +Some reply would doubtless have been made to these pertinent +considerations, had not the confused tramp of a committee been heard at +the door. The professors of the "New Dispensation" had come to conduct +the Reverend Charles Clifton to their platform. The distinguished +convert shuddered, as if affected by some incorporeal presence, and +suffered himself to be led away. + +"I can do nothing more," murmured Dr. Burge; "and why should I stay to +hear diluted rhetoric, or inflated commonplace, from lips which, however +unworthily, once proclaimed the simplicity of the gospel?" + +"Because it is not well to prejudge what may offer some possible variety +in this credence," I ventured to suggest. + +"You are right; we will stay." + +A murmur of applause followed the appearance of Clifton upon the +platform,--yet it was only a murmur; for the flock, long pastured upon +delicate delusions, received as matter of course whatever shepherding +chance offered. Did not the face of the medium wear an expression of +earthly disappointment at this slender recognition? Could it be that +there was needed the hot-house heat of a carnal "success" to favor this +exquisite flowering of the spirit? Can we suppose that this whole matter +was no other than some Yankee patent to avoid the awful solitude in +which each human soul must enter into relations with the unseen? + +Slowly and in dreamy heaviness the discourse began. The inspirational +claims seemed to lie in the manifest improbability of a man of Clifton's +cultivation being so dull and diffuse in a natural condition. Yet, as +the message wore on, it cannot be denied that a strange influence was at +work. The words followed each other with greater fluency and in richer +abundance. The meaning, to be sure, was still vague enough; and whenever +some commonplace truth or plausibility protruded from the general +washiness, it was seized upon and beaten and stretched to the last +degree of tenuity. Phrases upon phrases of gorgeous dreaminess. A +soothing delight,--yet such delight as only the bodily senses demanded. +A joyful deliverance from the bondage of intellectual life. Hints that +our human consciousness of sin was a vain delusion from which the +"developed" man was happily delivered. "Come up here," said the +preacher, in substance, "and escape from this moral accountability which +sits so heavily upon you. Here is a sensuous paradise, sweet and +debilitating, offering varied delights to the eclecticism of personal +taste. All angular and harsh things may be dissolved in copious floods +of words, and washed into a ravishing, enervating Universe." + +An hour--two hours--passed. The air was thick and poisonous. Attention +had been strained to the utmost. Other things were to be noted by those +accustomed to regard mental disorder from a physiological point of view. + +And now, by some abnormal mode of cerebral activity, the trance-speaker +won strange sympathies from his auditors. Certain faculties in Clifton +had reached an expansion not permitted to the healthy man. A plastic +power came from him and took the impress of other minds. Old experiences +groped out of forgotten corners and haunted the discourse. At one time +it seemed as if all that was potential in the culture of the medium or +his audience might be stimulated into specious blossom. Phenomena were +exhibited which transcended the conscious powers of the human +soul,--nay, which testified of its latent ability to work without +organic conditions. Our unemployed brain-organs, as Hamilton and others +have clearly proved, are always employing themselves. And from this +self-employment--or was it demon-employment?--there swept through the +consciousness a vague delirium of excitement. In all that assembly a +single pulse beat feverish measures. The climax was reached. Without was +the soft spring night veiling the scarcely touched range of knowledge +and beauty offered to the healthy energies of man; within were dazed +wanderers in a region of morbid emotion, seeking to intensify the colors +of Nature, willing to waste precious vitality in conjurations of the +dead. + +The wretched thraldom was over,--and what had it left? + +An exquisite sensitiveness of the nerves of sense, imagination exalted, +memory goaded, reason and judgment overthrown. + + +III. + +In his Fast-Day sermon Dr. Burge delivered himself of much weighty +testimony against those thaumaturgical incantations of heathenism which +had been revived among us. With his splendor of clerical pause and +emphasis he read the denunciations against a sinful nation to which the +prophet Isaiah has affixed the awful words,--"Saith the Lord, the Lord +of Hosts." + +"And they shall fight every one against his brother, and every one +against his neighbor, city against city, and kingdom against kingdom." + +Here the preacher's dark eyes left the sacred volume, and seemed to gaze +upon some coming struggle in which the sins of the people would meet a +bloody retribution. Then, referring to the page, he pronounced with +bitterness of holy indignation the prophetic curse which was that day +fulfilled in our cherished New England. + +"And they shall seek to the idols, and to the charmers, and to them that +have familiar spirits, and to the wizards." + +The sermon made no more visible impression upon the sinful portion of +the congregation than homilies against novel and pleasant indulgences +are wont to do. + +"The Apostle was right, after all," said Colonel Prowley, quoting the +text upon the meeting-house steps; "we _should_ 'try the spirits.'" + +"No objection to that," said the post-master; "but here's Dr. Burge +tells us to keep out of their way, and call them all humbugs, without +trying them at all." + +The gentleman referred to joined our party upon the meeting-house +green, and accompanied us home. + +As we entered the house, our ears were saluted by a sort of scuffling +noise, with an accompaniment of broken English. Miss Turligood, highly +charged with the Detached Vitalized Electricity, or some stimulant of +equal potency, ran to meet us in the entry, to enjoin silence and a +passive state of mind before entering the parlor. The manifestations +during service had been most wonderful. Twynintuft had lifted the table +to the ceiling, with Mr. Stellato clinging to the legs. Mrs. Colfodder +had had her back-hair taken down, and the housemaid was certain that +somebody tried to kiss her. + +We made for the parlor with all convenient speed. Notwithstanding the +solemn adjurations of Dr. Burge, we entertained guilty hopes of seeing +some of the marvels which had become such positive drugs in our absence. +But to _see_ anything was, for a long time, out of the question; for the +spirits had insisted upon having the shutters closed, and shawls pinned +up before the cracks in the same, ere they would favor mortals with an +exhibition. Finally, dim outlines revealed themselves through the +obscurity. We made out a female figure (it was the cook, so Miss Prowley +whispered) who was haranguing the assembly at the rate of a word every +thirty seconds, or thereabouts. + +_Cook as Twynintuft:_--"I am Mister Twynintuft. I set lots by you all. I +left my bright spirit-home to come here to-day. The squashes was musty +afore they was brought into the house. No blame to the cook. Them +pickled termarterses couldn't keep into spring, and so I tell you now. +The spheres is a dry place, and everythin' is most a-beautiful here." + +_Betty, the housemaid, loquitur._--(She appears in the character of +Red-Jacket, a popular personation upon these occasions,--it being very +easy to talk _Indian_ by the simple recipe of transposing the nominative +and objective cases of the personal pronoun.) "Me don't like what you +say, old Twyney! I's name's Red-Jacket. Pale-face give fire-water to I. +The squashes was good enough till cook left 'em out in the rain. Me have +hunting-ground in fifth sphere. When me puts up tomatoes in the +spirit-world, me rosins 'em when they bile. Great influence comes from I +to-day; also, much development." + +"Dr. Burge," whispered I, "you claim to have devoted some time to the +examination of these delusions; but I will venture to say you have never +witnessed anything so humiliating as this!" + +"My dear Sir," murmured the Doctor in return, "the remark shows you to +be a novice indeed. Why, I have listened to hours of no better drivel +than this, fathered, not upon Indians and unknown elocutionists, but +upon some of the wisest and most saintly spirits whose mortal teachings +ever blessed mankind." + +"Do you think these people voluntary impostors?" + +"No; it would be nearer the truth to say that they are voluntary victims +of a mental epidemic like that which developed itself in the St. Vitus's +dance of the Middle Ages. The subjects of that disease went through the +same spasms, convulsions, and painful racking of the limbs which +accompany such cases of this personation as are not designed deceptions. +Even those accidentally present, when the effects of the ancient +contagion were exhibited, became infected and were irresistibly impelled +to join in the extravagance. Look at Miss Turligood and Mr. Stellato, +and see if the parallel is not supported." + +The individuals named were seen to be twisting themselves up and making +an awkward sort of obeisance to the housemaid, who (still as Red-Jacket) +thus delivered herself:-- + +"Me goin' to dancey war-dance. Great Spirit sends lots more Indians come +dancey too." + +A cry of acquiescence,--perchance intended for a ghostly war-whoop,--and +the beloved of my Lord Byron broke into a savage polka. + +Stellato seized a paper-knife, and proceeded to scalp a chair with +merciless ferocity. + +Those unfortunate ladies, Miss Branly and Miss Turligood, were unable to +resist the infection, and so sprang among the party, whirled about, and +exhibited absurdities painful and unnecessary to relate. + +"By the Muse of my ancestor the Poet!" exclaimed Colonel Prowley, +indignantly, "I will no longer endure this clumsy travesty of that +choric saltation with which Apollo was said to inspire his Pythian +virgins. Dr. Burge, you will oblige me by pulling down that shawl! +Sister, you will please to open the shutters of the south window!" + +The requests were instantly complied with. The wholesome sunlight burst +into the room, and checked, as if by magic, the unseemly mumming of +these deluded convulsionaries. Mrs. Colfodder sank down exhausted upon +the sofa. Betty ceased to be Red-Jacket. Mr. Stellato gave up his +scalping-knife, flopped feebly upon a chair, and again became a +transparent jelly-fish of philosophy and water. It was harder to bring +Miss Turligood to herself, by reason of the singular intractability of +the squaw who had taken possession of the premises, and was only to be +dislodged by much tediousness of argument and adjuration. At length, +however, even this was accomplished. The Indians sulked off into space, +and their terrestrial mediums once more prepared to collect about the +table. + +"Why, bless me! past one, I declare!" said Miss Turligood, consulting +her watch. "How spirits do make the time pass! A brief adjournment for +dinner will now take place. The circle will meet for renewed +investigation this afternoon at three o'clock. Every member will be +punctual. Remember, in this place, at three o'clock." + +"Stay," said Miss Prowley, in a gentle, but at the same time decided +tone; "it will not be convenient to us to receive this party again. The +presence of friends from the city, who are in Foxden only for the day, +renders a meeting this afternoon out of the question. And having once +broken up our regular sittings, it will not be worth while to resume +them,--at least, here." + +"But, Madam, Madam, you forget that the spirits have positively +commanded us to hold sittings in your parlor three times a day till +further notice!" gasped Miss Turligood, in extreme astonishment. + +"I do not recognize the authority of the spirits. They have no right to +dictate the uses of my parlor." + +Here was a confession indeed on the part of Miss Prowley. _Not recognize +the authority of the spirits!_ Miss Turligood fairly staggered, when she +heard the impious announcement. The smooth sciolist Stellato rallied his +weak wits and uttered a cry of wonder at such flagitious heresy. The +future Lady Byron, taking as a deliberate insult any doubts of the +identity and authority of her posthumous spouse, threw up her arms in +horror, and trotted out of the house. + +Finally, we got rid of them all,--_how_, I don't exactly remember, and +if I did, it would not concern the reader to know. We delivered Miss +Turligood over to her Irishman, (who had brought a carryall with him +this time,) and charged him never to drive her back; Betty and the cook +were restored to the kitchen; Stellato and Miss Branly disappeared, no +one could say where. + +"And now," exclaimed Colonel Prowley, with a sigh of relief, "let us +forget this nonsense, and go to dinner,--for the spirits have given me +an appetite, if nothing else." + +"Then you intend to follow what I understand to be the teaching of your +invisible visitors," remarked Dr. Burge, pleasantly. + +"How so?" + +"You do not recognize Fast-Day." + +"Ha! ha!" laughed the Colonel; "I doubt if the ghosts were quite +unreasonable about that." + +"Nay, brother, you should tell our good minister that we have but a cold +collation, and that prepared on the previous day, as is our custom on +the Sabbath," urged Miss Prowley, with the dignity of an exact and +consistent housekeeper. + +"It is as well we have," was the reply; "for those precious Indians, +although wise in medicine, knew little enough about cookery. They would +have made sorry work, had it been necessary to give a culinary direction +to the inspirations of our damsels below-stairs." + +"And yet, after all," resumed our host, meditatively, and after a +moment's pause, "it seems scarcely right to make a jest of this matter; +for, although the manifestations of to-day have been ridiculous +enough,--yet--really--when I think of some of those instructive +observations of poor Sir Joseph Barley"---- + +The remark was never concluded, for a sudden rattling and whoaing and +bumping of baggage was heard. The interruption came from before the +front-door. The "Railroad-Omnibus" had driven up to the house. + +"It is, doubtless, my good friend Professor Owlsdarck," said Colonel +Prowley,--courteously rebuking an exclamation of astonishment from his +sister, who had gone to the window;--"to be sure, we did not expect him +to-day, but he is ever a most welcome guest." + +"But it is _not_ Professor Owlsdarck!" cried the sister, in shrillest +tones of feminine amazement. "That portly figure to which the pencil of +the artist has done such feeble justice! the spectacles with the square +glasses! the enormous seal of the Sextons!--it can be but one man!" + +"What! you don't mean"---- + +"Yes, but I _do_ mean! Come and see for yourself!" + +"A ghost in an omnibus! Why, sister, sister, the +Detached--what-you-may-call-it has got into your head,--or, heavens! can +it be that our unbelief is punished with this frightful manifestation?" + +"It is Sir Joseph Barley himself!" ejaculated Miss Prowley. + +"Surrounded by his bank of silver-tunicked attendants?" gasped the +Colonel, in desperate interrogation. + +"No, no, nothing of the kind," said Dr. Burge, assuringly; "he has not +brought even a footman." + +And it _was_ Sir Joseph Barley,--in the flesh,--and in a good deal of +it, too;--Sir Joseph Barley, full to overflowing with talk and +compliments. He had long planned a journey to America, and a surprise to +his Fellow-Sexton in Foxden. The trip had been necessarily postponed +from week to week, and then from month to month. Always expecting to +leave by the next steamer, he had never thought it worth while to write. +Had been on shore exactly nine hours, was delighted with the country, +and had already written the first chapter of a book about it. Was, +nevertheless, surprised to see none of the native Red Men upon the wharf +when the Canada arrived. Should have thought the spectacle would have +been both novel and imposing to them. After dinner, would, with +permission, go into the forests about Foxden, and visit this singular +people in their national wigwams. + +How picture the delight of hospitable Colonel Prowley, when, volubly +delivering these and other sentiments, the High Priest and Potentate +over all Sextondom entered the parlor and made himself comfortable in a +rocking-chair? + +There is no need to dwell upon the matronly bustle of Miss Prowley, who, +utterly ignoring the proper ordinances of the day, proceeded to send to +the hotel for a beefsteak and a bottle of British Stout which could be +warranted of genuine importation. + +"And stop, stop, sister!" whispered the Colonel, pursuing her to the +door; "the idea seems absurd, to be sure, but still don't you think it +barely possible, that, if Betty ran down to the river and caught a few +of those snapping-turtles sunning themselves upon the old log, we might +boil them into something which would faintly remind Sir Joseph of the +Lord Mayor's soup?" + +This proposition being dismissed as impracticable,--first, by reason of +the notorious unwillingness of the turtles to be caught, and, waiving +that objection, because of the length of time it would take to achieve +any passable imitation of the aldermanic dainty,--I was moved to an +_aside_-declaration to the effect that my slight observation of the +tastes of British tourists in the Federal States led to the suggestion +of _oysters_ as delicacies not wholly unlikely to find favor with their +eminent guest. + +An explosion of impulsive gratitude responded to the hint. There was a +new "saloon" just opened in Main Street,--Betty should stop there and +leave a generous order. + +Well! it was some time before we were summoned to our amended dinner; +but, when we did get it, it was a dinner worth waiting for. + +Sir Joseph Barley--Heaven bless him!--knew nothing of that smattering of +Cosmos into which we hungry New-Englanders are wont to thrust our wits. +He bluntly declared that he had never heard of Detached Vitalized +Electricity, Woman's Rights, or Harmonial Development; also, he was +delightfully confident that--he, Sir Joseph Barley, British subject, +_not_ having heard of them--they could not, by any possibility, be worth +hearing about. Moreover, he had not read a word of Carlyle, and +positively did not know of the existence of any English poet called +Browning. Dr. Burge, he thoughtfully suggested, had probably mistaken +the name; it was Byron, or possibly Bulwer, about whom he wished to +inquire. The former of these personages was a British Peer, and a writer +of some celebrity; he was, however, no longer living, having never +recovered from a fever he took at a place called Missolonghi, in +Greece;--the latter had written a book entitled "Pelham," once popular, +but now thought inferior to a series of romances known in Great Britain +as the "Waverley Novels"; these were the work of one Scott, a native of +Edinburgh, whom George IV. honored with a baronetcy,--a splendid +recompense for his great literary industry. + +This, and much other information, adapted to our rude plantation in the +New-England wilderness, did Sir Joseph patronizingly impart. And it was +good to meet a man with a sense of corporeal identity so honest and +satisfactory. A cynic might have said that his mind moved in rather +narrow limits. But then within those limits he was so ruddy and jubilant +that I could not but remember something Shakspeare says about the ease +of being bounded in a nutshell and yet counting one's self king of +infinite space,--were it not for bad dreams. These "bad dreams" had +never retarded the British digestion of Sir Joseph Barley. No American +citizen could, by any possibility, be so shut in measureless content. It +is only a very few of our well-to-do women of the Mrs. Widesworth +class--ladies inclining to knitting and corpulency in the afternoon of +life--who possess the like faculty of warming society with the blaze of +an ecstatic egotism. Well, there are moments--why not confess it? for is +not man body as well as soul?--when it is a relief to get away from our +mystics, system-mongers, and peerers into the future, and claim a +brotherhood after the flesh with your average Briton, who looks out of +his comfortable present only to look into his comfortable past. Yet let +this estate be temporary; for it is well to return to our thin diet, +and, instead of jolly after-dinner talk, repeat the high and aspiring +phrases of certain New-Englanders who lead the generous thought and life +of a continent. Phrases! Yes, but how many nebulous ideas, think you, +would it take to stuff out their hollowness? Nay, my objecting friend, +if the ideas are not wholly clear, nor immediately practicable, they are +seldom shallow, and never mean. If the wisdom of our true seers +sometimes seems poured out in thin dilution, it nevertheless soon +hardens to a thousand shining crystals upon men of worldly enterprise +and grasp. And why this digression? I think its suggestion lay in the +fact that Sir Joseph, being the type of the ordinary Englishman, held +and imparted a fine sunniness of temper, and a perfectly balanced +serenity,--good gifts, which, so far as my experience goes, are +possessed in full measure by only one or two exceptional Americans, and +these men of high and acknowledged genius. + +"I don't understand it, upon my honor," cried our visitor, after we had +endeavored to explain to him his own spiritual intrusion on the previous +evening. "I have heard of Doctor Pordage and the Dragon, and of the +Drummer of Tedworth; but when you tell a sane British subject that his +apparition comes before him, and takes, as it were, the froth off his +welcome"---- + +"No, no, my dear friend," interrupted Colonel Prowley, "you must know +that nothing could do that! As to the obituary I had written, it may do +for some other time,--for, indeed, my felicity in such compositions has +been highly commended, and this by mundane authorities of no common +weight." + +"Let us change the subject," said Sir Joseph, dryly; "I have no wish to +test your powers in that direction; and so long as I don't give up the +ghost, I suppose you must." + +"I would only say this," observed the Colonel,--"that in your book upon +America I hope you will not fail to declare, that, in folly, deception, +and unmitigated humbug, our Foxden spirits exceed all others ever seen +or heard." + +"Sir Joseph Barley would be a foolish chronicler to commit himself to +any such statement," said Dr. Burge, who seemed to feel it his duty to +speak the moral _tag_ to our little Fast-Day interlude. "I cannot allow +that these Foxden manifestations are one whit more silly or equivocal +than many I have seen elsewhere. This shamming the ghost of somebody +still alive is no uncommon deception: several cases of the sort have +come under my recent observation. And it is well that they sometimes +occur; for they must cause reflection in all who are not victims of a +mental disorder which seems to confound the reasoning powers of +man,--causing its subjects to accept as teachers phantoms of their +morbid imaginations, or deceiving intelligences from without. To all, I +say, but such as these, an imposition of the sort here noticed must send +reflections of our total inability to identify any pretended spirit +merely because he flatters our vanity, or talks what may seem _to us_ +good morality or sound sense." + +Dr. Burge had laid aside his knife and fork, and had launched bravely +forth upon his theme. Sir Joseph moved uneasily. Things were getting +serious. Our host happily interposed,-- + +"Very true, Doctor, all very true;--yet there is one piece of wisdom +regulating the spiritual practice which now seems worth considering." + +"And what is that, pray?" + +"They do not recognize Fast-Day." + +"Well, well," said Dr. Burge, taking the hint with the utmost +good-humor, "perhaps they were not altogether wrong there; and so I will +trouble Miss Prowley for a bit more of the steak, and----No, thank you, +no beer for me; I am a water-drinker of twenty years' standing." + +"The toast I am about to propose," observed Colonel Prowley, "may, with +exceeding propriety, be drunk in water,--that is, whenever +milk-and-water is not to be had:-- + +_"Our spiritual demagogues, much weaker than our political ones, may +they not be as much worse!"_ + +"And there is one other sentiment," said good Dr. Burge, brimming over +with an honest hilarity,--"a toast which I should be willing to drink in +pretty strong--coffee." + +"I have not forgotten that," exclaimed our host, proffering a hearty +shake of the hand to the High Senior Governour and Primitive Patriarch +of All Sextons,-- + +_"Health and a long life to Sir Joseph Barley!"_ + + + + +PROSPICE. + + + Fear death?--to feel the fog in my throat, + The mist in my face, + When the snows begin, and the blasts denote + I am nearing the place, + The power of the night, the press of the storm, + The post of the foe; + Where he stands, the Arch Fear in a visible form, + Yet the strong man must go: + For the journey is done and the summit attained, + And the barriers fall, + Though a battle's to fight ere the guerdon be gained, + The reward of it all. + I was ever a fighter, so--one fight more, + The best and the last! + I would hate that Death bandaged my eyes, and forbore, + And bade me creep past. + No! let me taste the whole of it, fare like my peers + The heroes of old, + Bear the brunt, in a minute pay glad life's arrears + Of pain, darkness, and cold. + For sudden the worst turns the best to the brave, + The black minute's at end, + And the elements' rage, the fiend-voices that rave, + Shall dwindle, shall blend, + Shall change, shall become first a peace, then a joy, + Then a light, then thy breast, + O thou soul of my soul! I shall clasp thee again, + And with God be the rest! + + + + +WASHINGTON IRVING. + + +We have, at last, a full story of the life of Mr. Irving. It is from the +hand of a near relative, who has brought to the task an almost filial +reverence, with a modest reserve of language, and a delicacy of +treatment, which, while they disarm criticism, would of themselves +suffice to attest the kinship of the writer with the distinguished +subject of his biography. It is a quiet and tranquil picture that he has +given us, of a serene and tranquil life. As we have turned it over +delightedly, chapter after chapter, and volume upon volume, we have +wished at times that the coy biographer had been endowed with a spice of +garrulity or of egotism; for, say what we will, these qualities +contribute largely to the interest with which we follow the story of a +life about whose incidents and development the public has greed of +knowledge. + +If Boswell had invariably governed his biographic record by the +instincts of a gentleman, we should have possessed far less wealth of +gossip by which to judge of the manhood and the familiar surroundings +of the great lexicographer. And we can readily imagine that a +conscientious man, in setting about the task of writing the life of a +favorite author, would ask himself, over and over, how much should be +yielded to the eager curiosity of the public, and how much a refined +courtesy of feeling should keep in reserve. There are men, indeed, whose +history, by whomsoever recorded, would suggest no such questioning,--men +who have elbowed their way through life, bent upon some single aim, with +a grand and coarse disregard of all the heart-burnings they may have +caused, and all the idols they may have brushed down. Washington Irving +was by no means such a man; he was kind-hearted to the last degree; and +yet, remembering as we do that sly look of humor which lurked always in +the corner of his eye, we cannot believe but that in his freer moments +he has pricked through many a bag of bombast, and made dashing onslaught +upon noisy literary pretension. Of all this, however, we find nothing in +the volumes before us,--nothing in his own books. Always, in his contact +with the world, he is genial; the face of every friend is beautiful to +him; every acquaintance is at the least comely; in rollicking Tom Moore +he sees (what all of us cannot see) a big heart,--in Espartero a bold, +frank, honest soldier,--in every fair young girl a charmer,--and in +almost every woman a fair young girl. + +In all these respects the biography of Mr. Pierre Irving is in fitting +accord with what we had known and believed of his eminent kinsman. And +we are delighted at being confirmed in the belief. We yield all measure +of respect for the grace, the purity, the dignity, which Washington +Irving has added to our literature; and yet we honor still more that +true American heart which beams through all his writings, and throughout +this record of his life. The rare kindliness of the man so hallows and +sublimes his memory that we half forget his artistic power, his purity +of touch, his keenness of observation, his delightful and abounding +humor. + +There are no storms in this life of his: it is, as we have said, a quiet +picture of a career that is full of honor indeed, full of triumphs, but +full of serenity. Here is no Don Quixote searching for enemies with whom +to do battle,--no John Knox thwacking terribly upon all heretical pates, +and sweating with his obstinacy, as much as with the vigor of his blows; +but the kindly gentleman, giving tone and beauty to the common sentiment +of us all, piquing our wonder by his adroitness, kindling our smiles by +his arch sallies, winning our admiration by his thousand graces, and our +respect by his honesty and truth. + +In 1797, Washington Irving, a roguish lad of fifteen, living in William +Street, in New York, and not a little rebellious against the severe +orthodoxy of his father,--who was a deacon of the Presbyterian +Church,--sometimes slipped out from his chamber, after evening prayers, +for an hour or two at the theatre; he attended school, where he stole +the reading of such books as "Robinson Crusoe," and "Sinbad the Sailor"; +and he wrote compositions for such of his fellows as would make good his +tasks in mathematics. This was a study which he never loved, and to the +last he abjured all stringency of method. The writer of this paper +remembers on one occasion asking him what system he pursued in massing +his notes for the "Life of Washington." "Don't ask me for system," said +he; "I never had any. If you want to know what a man can do by +arrangement, talk with B----; his whole mind is pigeon-holed." + +At sixteen we find him in a lawyer's office; he does not, like some of +his brothers, enjoy the advantages (if there be any) of a collegiate +education. But he loves law as little as he loves mathematics. Feeble +health gives occasion for frequent absences and journeyings; and it is +plain to see that he loves a voyage up the Hudson, and adventurous +travel through the wilds of Northern New York, better than he loves +Judge Livingston, or the books of his law-patron, Mr. Hoffman. He has a +scribbling mood upon him at this early day, too, and contributes to the +New-York "Morning Chronicle" certain letters of Jonathan Oldstyle, which +are remarked for their pleasant humor. At the age of twenty-one (1804) +continued ill-health suggests a sea-voyage. He leaves law and his jolly +companions,--Brevoort, Kemble, Paulding, and the rest,--and sails for +Bordeaux. He wanders through Southern Europe delightedly,--meets +Washington Allston at Rome, and is half tempted to turn painter,--sees +Humboldt, De Stael, Cooke, Siddons; and while all England is jubilant +over Nelson's victory, and all England mourning over Nelson's death, he +sails, in 1806, for home. + +Arrived in New York a sound man, he goes through a process of cramming +for admission to the bar, and is presently instated--attorney-at-law. +But at the very time of his examination he is concocting with James +Paulding the project of "Salmagundi," which presently enlivens and +perplexes people with the vagaries of Launcelot Langstaff. A little +after, he plans and commences the Knickerbocker History. + +But meantime an interesting episode of his life is developing, which by +its unfortunate issue is to give a certain color to all after-expression +of his sentiment. While in the family of Mr. Hoffman, as law-student, he +has conceived a strong attachment for his daughter; in certain +memoranda, marked "private," which come under the eyes of the biographer +only after Mr. Irving's death, he says,--"I idolized her. I felt at +times rebuked by her superior delicacy and purity, and as if I was a +coarse, unworthy being in comparison.... I saw her fade rapidly away, +beautiful, and more beautiful, and more angelical to the very last.... I +was by her when she died.... I was the last one she looked upon." The +memorandum from which this extract is taken had been originally written, +it appeared, for the eye of an intimate lady-friend abroad, to whom we +shall have occasion to refer. + +In 1809, at the age of twenty-six, is published his "History of New +York." There were a few punctilious Dutch families who were offended at +its sallies; but cultivated people generally welcomed its fun, its +spirit, its quiet satire, with heartiness and applause. + +Shortly after he entered into a commercial partnership with his +brothers, Peter and Ebenezer, of whom one was established in England, +the other in New York. In the War of 1812 we find him acting as military +aid to Governor Tompkins; and in 1815 he embarks again for Europe. He +passes many years in England, in the course of which time the commercial +firm, of which he is a member goes into bankruptcy. Upon this, he is of +course thrown adrift. But through the influence of his friends at home +he is offered the position of Chief Clerk of the Navy Department, with a +salary of twenty-four hundred dollars a year. This, however, after some +misgivings, he declines. He does not like the idea of being cramped by +official routine of duty. He will try what he can do with his pen. And +for months after making this decision (we have heard it with unction +from his own lips) he can do nothing. His friend Allston is going back +to America; Leslie is making a reputation; and he, a bankrupt, and +having wantonly thrown up the chance for a lucrative position at home, +is suddenly bereft of all capacity for literary work; he makes trial; +but it is in vain. The "Sketch-Book" is floating in his thought; but he +cannot commit its graces to paper. + +The months roll on; something must be done; the secretaryship at home is +abandoned; he must try again; he does try; he sends off "Sketch-Book No. +I." to America. We know what came of it: success, delight. Number upon +number followed. There was an early republication, under the author's +auspices, in London. He was feted: it was so odd that an American should +write with such control of language, with such a play of fancy, with +such pathetic grace. There was a kind of social _furor_ to meet and to +see the man who, notwithstanding his Transatlantic birth, had conquered +all the witchery of British speech, who knew its possible delicacies of +expression, and who graced it with a humor that reminded of Goldsmith. + +No American author had ever dreamed of such ovation before: an ovation +not due to any incisive thought, not due to any novelty of his +subject-matter,--but due to the fact that a man born overseas had +suddenly appeared among British writers, who could lay hold upon their +own resources of sentiment, and inwrap it in language which charmed them +by its grace and provoked them by its purity. + +Mr. Murray entered upon the publication of the "Sketch-Book" in 1820, +Mr. Irving being at that time thirty-seven years of age. Of his pleasant +intimacy with Sir Walter Scott, of his junketings in Paris, of his +meeting with Tom Moore, of his unfortunate enlistment in a +steamboat-enterprise upon the Seine, there is full and most lively +account in the "Life and Letters" before us. "Bracebridge Hall," +despatched from Paris in 1822, is received with the same favor which had +attended the publication of the "Sketch-Book"; and the pecuniary returns +are so liberal that he can lie upon his oars for a while, and (what +pleases him more) can effectually aid his brother Peter, who was a party +to the unfortunate steamboat-scheme. + +After this comes a merry whirl through Europe. The Rhine, Heidelberg, +Munich, Vienna, we visit again in his sparkling letters, dated forty odd +years ago. His reputation, and the good offices of French and English +friends, open an easy path for him; everywhere he finds hospitality and +acquaintances, and everywhere, by that frank, genial manner of his, he +transmutes even chance acquaintances into confidential friends. The +winter of 1822-3 is passed in the delightful city of Dresden. He meets +with a warm welcome at the little Saxon court; he has the _entree_ of a +pleasant English household, where he becomes fairly domesticated. Mrs. +Foster, its accomplished mistress, is a lady of fortune, who has two +"lovely daughters." Mr. Irving, in concert with two or three +gentlemen-friends, organizes certain home-theatricals, in which the +Misses Foster engage with ready zeal and a charming grace. There are +Italian readings, and country-excursions, to all of which Mr. Irving is +a delighted party. He hardly knows how to tear himself away from scenes +so enchanting. To Miss Foster he writes, on the occasion of a little +foray into Bohemia,--"I am almost wishing myself back already. I ought +to be off like your bird, but I feel I shall not be able to keep clear +of the cage." Mrs. Foster, with a womanly curiosity, is eager to know +how a man so susceptible as Mr. Irving, and so domestically inclined, +should have reached the mature age of forty as a bachelor. Mr. Irving +amiably gratifies her curiosity by detailing to her the story of his +early and unfortunate attachment, in the shape of the memorandum to +which we have already alluded. He closes this confidential disclosure by +saying,--"You wonder why I am not married. I have shown you why I was +not long since.... My time has now gone by; and I have growing claims +upon my thoughts, and upon my means, slender and precarious as they are. +I feel as if I had already a family to think and provide for." + +We have dwelt upon this little episode, not because it has any essential +importance in itself, but because it has been the subject of a most +unseemly interpolation in the British reprint of the biography. Mr. +Bentley, "Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty," was, it appears, the +purchaser, at a small sum, of the advance-sheets of the book; but, in +order to secure English copyright, he conceived the idea of introducing +extraneous matter of British origin. In prosecution of this design, he +found as _collaborateurs_ the two Misses Foster above alluded to, who +are now wives of clergymen of the Church of England. Mrs. Fuller, the +elder of the sisters, and the special favorite of the author, gives upon +the whole a modest and pleasant account of their association with Mr. +Irving, and closes with a few lines which, she says, he wrote in her +scrap-book in 1832. "He declared it was impossible for him to be less in +a writing-mood." And thereupon follow the well-known lines entitled +"Echo and Silence." They certainly do not prove very much for the +writing-mood of Mr. Irving,--whatever they may prove for Sir Egerton +Brydges. The contribution of the younger sister, Mrs. Flora Dawson, is +in a somewhat exaggerated and melodramatic vein, in the course of which +she takes occasion to expend a great deal of pity upon "poor Irving," +who is made to appear in the character of a rejected suitor for the hand +of her sister. It is true that the testimony of Mr. Irving's biographer, +and of his private papers, is largely against this absurdly romantic +construction; but, although it had been perfectly authentic, it is +almost incredible that a lady of delicacy should make such blazon of the +affair, for the sake of securing a copyright to "Her Majesty's Publisher +in Ordinary." We are sorry that Mrs. Dawson has not made a better +_debut_ in literature. As for Mr. Bentley, we can characterize his +conduct in the matter only by the word--disgraceful. In the whole +history of griping literary piracies (of which Americans must bear their +share) we can recall no one which shows so bad a taste, and so bad a +faith, as this of Mr. Bentley, the "Publisher in Ordinary to Her +Majesty." + +In the year 1824 we find Mr. Irving at work in Paris chambers upon the +"Tales of a Traveller"; then follow three or four joyous and workful +years in Spain, between Madrid, Seville, and the Alhambra. We have all +tasted the fruit of that pleasant sojourn; "Columbus" is on every +library-shelf; and we remember a certain dog's-eared copy of the +"Conquest of Granada" which once upon a time set all the boys of a +certain school agog with a martial furor. How we shook our javelins at +some bewildered cow blundering into the play-ground! What piratical +forays we made upon the neighbors' orchards, after the manner of the +brave old Muley Aben Hassan! And as for the Alhambra, the tinkle of the +water in the marble basins of its court is lingering on our ears even +yet. + +In Spain, as elsewhere, Mr. Irving makes a circle of friends about him +whom it is hard to leave; but it must be. Accusing comrades at home say +he has deserted his country; he turns his face Westward at last, and, +full of honors, sails for New York once more, in the year 1832, at the +ripe age of forty-nine. There never was a warmer welcome given to a +returning citizen. A feast is made for him, at which all the magnates of +the city of Manhattan assist; and the author's sensibility is so touched +that he can make only stammering acknowledgments,--at which the cheers +and the plaudits are heartier than ever. + +After this comes the opening of that idyllic life at Sunnyside,--the +building of the gables, the gilding of the weather-cocks, the planting +of the ivies. "Astoria" and "Bonneville" and the "Tour on the Prairies" +keep his hand active and his brain in play. Near and dear relatives +relieve his bachelor home of all loneliness. Nine years or more have +passed after his return, when he is surprised--and not a little +shocked--by his appointment, at the instance of Mr. Webster, as Minister +to Madrid. + +He cannot resist the memories of the Alhambra, of Seville, of the +Guadalquivir. Many pleasant associations are revived in England, in +France, and not a few in the now revolutionary Spain. But it is plain to +see that the official visit is not so enjoyable as the old untrammelled +life in the Peninsula. No matter how light the duties, routine is a +harness that galls him. We can almost hear his cheer of thanksgiving as +he breaks away from it, and comes once more to his cherished home of +Sunnyside. He is not an old man yet, though he counts well into the +sixties. He contrives new additions to his cottage; he dashes off the +charming "Life of Goldsmith" at a heat. His older books come pouring +from the press, and are met with the cordial welcome of new ones. + +His brothers, to whom he had been so fondly knit, are all gone save one; +Brevoort is gone; Kemble is just above him, at his forge, under the lee +of the Highlands. The river by quiet Tarrytown is strung up and down +with new "gentlemen's places." + +He puts himself resolutely at work upon the "Life of Washington." +Frequently recurring illness, and a little shakiness in his step, warn +him that his time is nearly up. He knows it. There is only one more task +to make good. We hear of him at Mount Vernon, at Arlington, at Saratoga. +Volume by volume the work comes forward. The public welcome it,--for +they love the author, and they love the subject. Three volumes,--four +volumes; and there are rumors that the old gentleman is failing. But +whoever finds admission to that delightful home of Sunnyside meets the +old smile, the old cheer. Seventy years have shaken the frame, but have +not shaken the heartiness of the man. The jest leaps from his eye before +his lip can clothe it, as it did twenty years before. There is a +friendly pat for his little terrier, and a friendly word for his +gardener, as in the old days. + +The fifth volume is in progress; but there is a cough that distresses +him sorely. He pushes on, however, through his task. The step is growing +feebler and the cough more annoying. It is the year 1859, and the +seventy-seventh of his age, when, upon a certain November evening, with +one little sharp cry of pain, he falls upon his chamber-floor--dead. + + * * * * * + +There are men whose works we admire, but for whose lives we care +nothing. Mr. Irving was not one of them. There is such a manly +heartiness in him that we crave close contact: we cannot know him too +well. Surely, this sympathy of readers, spontaneous, inevitable, will +keep his name always green. There may come greater purists,--though they +must con the language well; writers of more dramatic power we have now, +possibly a quainter humor,--but one more tender, that puts us in such +immediate sympathy with the author, hardly in our day, or in any day, +shall we see again. + +It is plain enough that Mr. Irving depended largely on his +friendships,--that, unconsciously, his courage for meeting and +conquering whatever of difficulty lay in his path was fed very much by +the encouraging words of those he loved and respected. His were no +brawny shoulders to push their way, no matter what points were galled by +contact,--no self-asserting, irresistible press of purpose, which is +careless of opinion. Throughout, we see in his kindly nature a longing +for sympathy: if from those intellectually strong, so much the better; +if from dear friends, better yet; if from casual acquaintances, still it +is good and serviceable to him, and helps him to keep his poise. + +He is a man, too, who clearly shuns controversy, who does not like to +take blows or to give blows, and whose intellectual life and development +find shape and color from this dread of the combative. Not that he is +without a quiet power and exercise of satire,--not that follies which +strike his attention do not get a thrust from his fine rapier; but they +are such follies, for the most part, as everybody condemns. By reason of +this quality in him, he avoids strongly controverted points in history; +or, if his course lies over them, he gives a fairly adjusted average of +opinion; he is not in mood for trenchant assertions of this or that +belief. This same quality, again, makes him shun political life. He has +a horror of its wordy wars, its flood of objurgation. Not that he is +without opinions, calmly formed, and firmly held; but the entertainment +of kindred belief he does not make the measure of his friendships. His +character counted on the side of all charity, of forbearance, against +harsh judgments; it was largely and Christianly catholic, as well in +things political as literary. He never made haste to condemn. + +There is a rashness in criminating this retirement from every-day +political conflicts which is, to say the least, very short-sighted. +Extreme radicalism spurns the comparative inactivity, and says, "Lo, a +sluggard!" Extreme conservatism spurns it, and says, "Lo, a coward!" It +is only too true that cowards and sluggards both may take shelter under +a shield of indifference; but it is equally true that any reasonably +acute mind, if only charitably disposed, can readily distinguish between +an inactivity which springs from craven or sluggish propensity, and that +other which belongs to constitutional temperament, and which, while +passing calm and dispassionate judgment upon excesses of opinion of +either party, contributes insensibly to moderate the violence of both. + +But whatever may have been Mr. Irving's reluctance to ally himself +intimately with political affairs, and to assume advocacy of special +measures, it is certain that he never failed in open-hearted, outspoken +utterance for the cause of virtue, of human liberty, and of his country. +There were vulgar assailants, indeed, who alleged at one time that he +had thoroughly denationalized himself by his long absences. The charge +he always regarded as an affront, and met with scorn. There are those so +grossly constituted as to measure a man's love of his own country by the +sneers he flings at the country of others. It was not in Mr. Irving's +nature to sneer at even an enemy; it was not his way of making conquest. +He recognized fully the advantages of a foreign life (at his date) in +following up that career of belles-lettres study which he had marked out +for himself. The free _entree_ of European libraries and galleries, and +familiar association with a class of cultivated men of leisure, (in +countries where such a class exists,) offered opportunity for refining +his taste, for enlarging his stock of available material, and for +stimulating his mental activity, of which he was not slow to perceive +the value, and of which he has given ample account. + +There is much that is interesting in the Life before us in regard to Mr. +Irving's habit of work. He was, like most men of extreme sensitiveness, +moody; at times his mind seemed all aglow; he wrote, on such occasions, +with extraordinary rapidity, and with that cheery appreciation of his +labor which to any author is an immense stimulant. But following upon +these happy humors came seasons of wearisome depression; the stale +manuscript of yesterday lost its charm; the fancy refused to be lighted; +he has not the heart to hammer at the business with dull, lifeless +blows, and flings down his pen in despair. There are successive months +during which this mood hangs upon him like an incubus; then it passes +suddenly, like a cloud, and the air (as at Seville) wooes him to his +charmingest fancies. + +We do not propose a critical estimate of the books of Mr. Irving. We +have neither space nor present temper for this. The world has indorsed +his great popularity with the heart, as much as with the brain. There +are those who have objected that the last subject of his labor--the +"Life of Washington"--was little suited to his imaginative tone of mind, +and should have been worked up with a larger and more philosophic grasp +of thought. It may well be that at some future time we shall have a more +profound estimate of the relations which our great Leader held to his +cause and to his time; but, however profound and just such a work may +be, we feel quite safe in predicting that it will never supplant the +graceful labor of Mr. Irving in the hearts of the American people. +Precisely what was wanted Mr. Irving has given: such charming, faithful, +truthful picture of the great hero of our Revolution as should carry +knowledge of him, of the battles he fought, of his large, self-denying, +unswerving patriotism, of the purity of his life, into every household. +No man could have done this work better; nor do we think any other will +ever do it as well. + +And there is his "Sketch-Book,"--in blue and gold, in green and gold, in +red and gold;--in what colors, and in what language, does it not appear? +Yet the themes are of the simplest: a broken heart; a rural funeral; a +Christmas among the hollies; an hour in the Abbey of Westminster: what +is there new, or to care greatly for, in these things? Yet he touched +them, and all the world are touched by them. Your critic says there is +no serious insight, no deep probing; a pretty wind blows over,--that is +all. + +Yes, that is all; but how many are there who can set such sweet currents +of wind aflow? + +Only a bruised daisy, only a wounded hare, only Halloween,--and Burns, +with all his fresh, healthy, hearty manhood, and only a peasant's pen, +touches them in such way that his touch is making the nerves of men and +women vibrate, where-ever our Saxon speech is uttered. + +There is many a light thing that we cherish,--with which we will not +easily part. That souvenir of some dear, dead one we do not value by its +weight in gold; that sweet story of the Vicar we do not measure by its +breadth of logic. And no American, no matter how late born he may be, +but, if he wander in the Catskills, shall hear the rumble of the Dutch +revellers at their bowling in the gorges of the mountains,--not one but +shall read, and reading shall love, the story of Rip Van Winkle. + +It was only a quiet old gentleman of six-and-seventy who was buried +awhile ago from his home upon the Hudson: yet the village-shops were all +closed; the streets, the houses, the station, were hung in black; +thousands from the city thirty miles away thronged the high-road leading +to the little church where prayers were to be said. + +How shall we explain this? The author is dead, indeed, whose writings +were admired by all; but there is something worthier to be said than +this:--At the little church lay the body of the man whom all men loved. + + + + +THE RIM. + + +PART II. + +Affairs went smoothly and noiselessly on for some three months. Mr. St. +George had received the congratulations of the neighborhood, who, +perceiving that Eloise still remained at The Rim, presumed all was +satisfactory; and Eloise refused herself to all, the better by reason of +her term of mourning. The slaves on the estate no longer infected others +with the result of bad government; their association with the +Blue-Bluffs people, a notoriously bad set, as well they might be, was +broken up; they felt, though the reins hung freely and the burden was +light, that there was a strong hand behind them that knew how to pull +them up or put them in the dust, and they learned so much respect and +even love for that hand as never to presume on the fact that it would +not perhaps choose to exert its full power; work was well done; there +was no further trespassing on other precincts; the world was in perfect +order, so far as St. George's administration of it extended. He was, +moreover, a man of distinction; serving, young as he was, four terms in +Congress from a distant district, he was already spoken of again as the +candidate of the immediate vicinity; his advice was sought in a hundred +matters about which he knew nothing at all,--and always given, in spite +of the last-mentioned circumstance; he had a careless, easy way of +taking the life out of a man's mouth, so to speak, and disposing of it +for that man's advantage as he himself pleased, so that the man felt +under an infinite obligation; he had, too, an air with him of such +superiority over the ills of life, such undoubted kingliness, that every +one succumbed and rested gladly on so firm a precedent. Mr. St. George +in this brief time had accepted much hospitality, had won a thousand +friends, and by Christmas had made himself, through his genial strength +to-day and his sardonic sarcasm to-morrow, as thoroughly the autocrat of +all the region as ever Mr. Erne had been. For all that men want is a +master; give them somebody that will lead, and glad enough are they to +follow. But Mr. Erne's supremacy had merely been a matter of birth and +of kindly feeling; Mr. St. George's was, first, because he choose to +have it, and secondly, because nobody was able to refuse it. Marlboro's +masterliness was quite another thing, affected no clusters of men, and +was felt only by those whom he owned, body and soul. + +In the mean time, the family seldom saw Mr. St. George, and when they +did, he was so stately that they would have been quite willing to shut +their eyes. They forgot, however, that, when you insist on being +yourself an iceberg, you really cool the air about you. Once, indeed, or +twice, there had been brief, but notable exceptions in his conduct. + +A period of heavy rains had just elapsed, and Eloise, weary of +confinement, had gone on the first clear day strolling round the place, +as secure as in a drawing-room, since there was not one of her father's +people but adored her. + +"You are going out, Miss Changarnier?" Mr. St. George had remarked at +the door; and, on being answered, he had added in a soliloquy, as if not +deigning a second address for a second rebuff,--"It will be quite +impossible to go far, for the freshet has swollen the brooks into +rivers." + +Eloise, however, took no notice of the information, and went on her way, +strolled farther than she had intended, and forded a brook because Mr. +St. George had said she could not. Then she sat down under a branching +tree that dropped its leaves about her and into the brook, and began to +read the "Romaunt of the Rose": at least, I fancy that was the book she +had. While she remained, the brook swirling ever louder between the +pauses, the sunset ran red in the sky and warned her to hasten home. But +she disregarded the warning till purple shadows fell softly on the page, +and stars and moon stole out to peer above her shoulder and see what it +was that so entranced the maiden. Rising hurriedly, she moved away; and +only when she had crossed two or three of the stepping-stones did she +perceive, on looking down, that, while she had been reading, the water +had risen above the next ones with a depth that the failing light +forbade her to see. Standing there, and bending dizzily forward to guess +the strength of the dark stream now so loudly and rapidly rushing by, +there came a noise like a bursting water-spout; suddenly her waist was +seized, and she was swept back to the shore. The next instant, with a +seething sound, a great uprooted oak tore along the very spot on which +she had stood. + +"Seeking danger for the pleasure of escape?" said a cool voice in her +ear, as her feet were planted on dry land. "A little excitement spices +our still life so well!" + +"Mr. St. George! how dare you?" cried Eloise, freeing herself. + +"What would you have had me do? Should I have stood here, letting I dare +not wait upon I would, like the cat i' the adage, while the oak caught +and rushed you off to sea? Too big a broomstick for such a little +witch!" + +"You should not have been here at all, Sir!" + +"There shall be thanks in all the churches, next Sunday, that I was." + +"At least, Sir, I can spare further aid." + +"Play Undine and the Knight on the island? It wouldn't be at all +safe,--it wouldn't be proper, you know," said Mr. St. George, raising +his eyebrows. "The dam that shuts up the irrigating waters broke an hour +ago," added he, in the tone of another person. "I sent servants to find +you, in every direction, and happened this way myself." + +Eloise was a little sobered. + +"I am much obliged to you, Sir," she said. + +"So it seems," he replied, dryly. "I shall be forced to offend you +again," he continued, "as further delay will render the stream entirely +impassable." + +And before she could utter a syllable of deprecation, she had swung a +brief moment in the air, and was upon the other side, up which Mr. St. +George, in his high seven-league boots, clambered so soon as he had set +her down. Instead of venturing any new display of indignation, as St. +George expected, Eloise walked on with him quietly a moment, and then, +looking up, said,-- + +"You are very kind, and I am very ungracious." + +Mr. St. George did not deny her assertion, only he glanced down at her +from his height a second with an inexplicable expression, and +immediately after the house became visible bowed low and left her. + +"There's been such a tantrum, Miss," said the quadroon Hazel, combing +out Eloise's hair that night, "and Massa St. George's horse waited two +mortal hours to take him to Blue Bluffs. You ought to have heard him +swear! He galloped off at last like mad." + +And as Eloise gave no response, unless the cloud on her face spoke for +her in the glass, the familiar girl added,-- + +"Not at you, Miss, not swearing at you,--oh, no, indeed!--but at all of +us, to think we'd let you go alone." + +"Mr. St. George is too solicitous. That will do, Hazel. Have you spoken +to your master about buying Vane?" + +"Laws, Miss, I never feels as if he was any master of mine, leastwise +excep' one can't help minding him. 'S different from ole Massa,--we +minded ole Massa for lub,--but I dunno if it's the music, when Massa St. +George speaks, that makes you do what he says, when you just don't mean +to,--as if you couldn't help it, and didn't want to help it?" suggested +Hazel. + +"Mr. St. George," said Eloise, "is very good to his people; they ought +to wish to obey him." + +"Yes, Miss. On'y he a'n't no business _here_." + +"Don't let me hear you speak so again, Hazel," said Eloise, facing the +suddenly cringing girl. "Now you can go." + +But Hazel lingered still, over one and another odd trifle, and at length +glancing up from where she stooped, with a scarlet on her young tawny +cheek, she added, in a low voice,-- + +"You'll speak to Massa St. George now for me, won't you, Miss?" + +"What? About Vane? You would do better yourself. Yes." + +Two or three days passed away after this little promise to Hazel, before +Eloise, at first forgetting it, and then dreading it, could gather +courage to proceed in the negotiations for the handmaiden's suit. She +was vaguely aware that she was the last person in the world whose past +conduct harmonized with the asking of favors, and she silently offered +slight propitiatory sacrifices. Yet she did this so haughtily, in order +still not to compromise her own dignity, that they would quite as well +have answered the purpose of belligerent signals. + +It was one afternoon that Eloise sat at the drawing-room window, having +recently finished her day's work, and letting herself linger now in a +place which she very rarely so much as passed through. She sat erect, +just then,--her head thrown far back, and the eyelids cast down along +the pale face. Mr. St. George came into the room noiselessly, and laid +down his riding-whip and gloves. Then he paused, struck by her +appearance, and admired her motionless attitude for several minutes. + +"One sits for Mnemosyne," he said then. + +Eloise lifted her eyes, and a ghost of color flitted along her cheek. +Here was a fortunate moment; the deity of it unbent and smiled. Her +heart beat in her throat between the words of her thought; yet she +recalled, for support, all the romances she had read, and their eloquent +portraitures of love, and, remembering that just as Rebecca loved +Ivanhoe, as Paolo loved Francesca, so Hazel and Vane loved each other, +"I must! I must!" she kept saying chokingly to herself. Mr. St. George +had taken up a book. How should she dare disturb him? At last a +hesitating voice came sliding towards him,-- + +"Mr. St. George"---- + +"I beg your pardon,--did you speak?" he asked, closing his book. + +"Mr. St. George, I want to ask you a favor," replied Eloise. + +She rose, and unconsciously with such an air that he saw her effort, +then came and sat on a lower seat directly before him. + +"When papa, when my dear father was living," said she, "I had a maid, +who was always mine, who grew up with me, being only a little younger, +and I became attached to her"---- + +And before Eloise knew it she was lightly playing with Mr. St. George's +riding-whip,--that being one of her warm traits just out of Nature, the +appropriation of everything about her. + +"And you have her no longer? That shall be attended to." + +"Oh, yes, Sir, she waits on me still; that isn't it. She is only +seventeen, she has been an atom wayward,--just, you know, as I might +have been"---- + +Mr. St. George smiled so perceptibly that Eloise added, throwing back +her head again,-- + +"Just as I _am_, Sir! But she has behaved very nicely for +several----Why, this is Mrs. Arles's whip! the one her husband gave her. +I knew it by the ivory vine-stem twining the ebony; and there are her +initials in the lovely gold chasing. I used to want it to play with, +when I was a little girl,--and she wouldn't let me have it, of course. +Pretty initials!" + +"Yes," said Mr. St. George, coldly. + +Eloise put it down. And then she stared at him forgetfully, and, +unthinkingly, with great disappointed eyes. Thereat Mr. St. George +laughed. + +"Don't Russian women present the knout to their bridegrooms?" asked +Eloise then, mischievously. + +But before he could have replied, she resumed,-- + +"Well, Sir, Hazel is very pretty"---- + +"It is Hazel, then? Would you like her to be made more distinctly yours, +Miss Eloise?" + +"Oh, dear, no, Sir, thank you. That isn't it at all. Hazel is in love." + +"Indeed!" + +"She is in love with Vane, a boy of Mr. Marlboro's: you may have seen +him; he is here a good deal,--by stealth: and they want to be married. +But Mr. Marlboro' is their terror, he may put an end to everything, and +they are afraid, and--and--could you buy Vane, Mr. St. George?" + +"I could, Miss Changarnier." + +"And you will, then?" cried Eloise, springing up. + +"If Mr. Marlboro' will sell him." + +"Won't he?" + +"It is a pride of the Marlboro's that there never was a hand sold off +the place." + +"Oh, I had forgotten. They would tell too shocking stories." + +"Not here. Not unless they were sold off the Cuban plantation, where the +vicious ones are transported." + +"But perhaps he would give him to you." + +"Miss Eloise, he would give him to _you_." + +"Me? I have never seen him." + +"That is of no consequence. He has seen you." + +"I wonder where. Do you really suppose that Mr. Marlboro' would give +Vane to me?" + +"Miss Eloise, I will see what I can do about it first." + +"How kind you are! Thank you!" + +And Eloise was about to go. + +"One moment, if you please," said the other. + +And Mr. St. George remained in meditation. When he spoke, it was not in +too assured a tone. + +"I am quite aware," said he, "that you consider me in the light of an +enemy. Perhaps it is a magnanimity that would be pleasant to you, should +you in turn grant that enemy a favor." + +"I should like to be able to serve you, Sir." + +"Well, then,--I spoke very unwisely a few moments since,--promise me +now, that, if Hazel and Vane do not marry till Doomsday, you will not +ask Marlboro' for the gift. It places you, an unprotected girl, too much +under the weather with such a man as Marlboro'. You promise me?" + +And he rose opposite her, smiling and gazing. + +"A whole promise is rash," said Eloise, laughing. "Half a one I give +you." + +"It is for yourself," said Mr. St. George, grimly; and he turned +abruptly away, because he knew he lied, and was afraid lest she would +know it too. + +It was two or three weeks after this, that Mr. St. George, returning one +chilly night from some journey, found Mrs. Arles asleep in her chair, a +fire upon the hearth, and Eloise sitting on the floor before it with her +box and brushes, essaying to catch the shifting play of color opposite +her, and paint there one of the great cloven tongues of fire that went +soaring up the chimney. + +"In pursuit of an _ignis-fatuus_?" asked he, stooping over her an +instant, and suddenly snatching himself erect, as she looked up with a +certain sweetness in her smile, and pushed back the drooping tress, +that, streaming along the temple and lying in one large curve upon the +cheek, sometimes fell too low for order, though never for grace. + +"And all in vain," she said, laughingly. "I've worked an hour, I can get +the violet edges, I can get the changing bend,--but there 'a no lustre, +no flicker,--I can't find out the secret of painting flame." + +"It is a secret you found out long ago!" muttered Mr. St. George, +unintelligibly, and strode out, banging the door behind him. + +And Eloise, astonished and dismayed, abruptly put up her pencils, and +went to bed. + +So that, when Mr. St. George returned a half-hour afterward for a +cheerful fireside-season over nuts and wine, there was nobody there but +Mrs. Arles, who picked herself up out of her nap, and went placidly on +with her tatting and contrivances. + +Two stragglers on the ice-fields of the polar seas would have met each +other with less frozen chill than St. George and Eloise did on the +succeeding morning. And in that chill a long period elapsed, during +which Mr. St. George attended to his affairs, and Eloise silently cast +up her accounts. + + * * * * * + +One morning in the spring, after the last of the soft and balmy winter, +Mr. St. George said to Mrs. Arles, at breakfast,-- + +"A dozen rooms, or more, can be ready by Wednesday? There will be guests +at noon, for several weeks. That is the list. I rely on Miss +Changarnier's assistance." And he handed her a paper, and went out. + +"It will be useless for you to keep your room now," said Mrs. Arles to +Eloise, on Wednesday morning. "It isn't like Mr. St. George's bachelor +parties with Marlboro' and Montgomery and Mavoisie, when I like to see +you keep to yourself as you do. These are all old friends." + +"I shall still have my work to do," said Eloise; and she went into the +cabinet and sharpened her pens with a _vim_. + +It would doubtless have relieved Mr. St. George of much annoyance and +perplexity, if Eloise would have assumed her old place in welcoming the +guests; but that was not set down in her part, and Eloise rightly felt +that it would be a preposterous thing for her to do. And though, when +she heard their voices in the hall, she longed just to open the door and +give one glance at Laura Murray sweeping by, or draw Lottie Humphreys in +through the crack and indulge in one quick squeeze, she heroically bent +herself upon the debit and credit beneath her eye, and tried to forget +all about it,--succeeding only in remembering who had lived and who had +died since the last time that hall had rung with their voices. + +It was past noon when Eloise, having finished her task, and having +remained for a long time with her arms upon the desk and her hands upon +her eyes, suddenly glanced up and saw a gentleman entering the cabinet, +where no gentleman but one was ever allowed to enter. He was in search +of a book; and scanning the shelves, his eye fell on her. + +He hesitated for a single atom of time, then stepped rapidly forward, +and said,-- + +"Miss Changarnier, I am quite sure." + +"Allow me," said quickly another voice at his shoulder, "to present to +Miss Changarnier Mr. Marlboro'." For Mr. St. George had entered just in +time. + +Mr. Marlboro' was a slight man, hardly to be called tall. He wore black, +of course, the coat fastened on the breast and letting out just a +glimpse of ruffled linen and glancing jewel below, while the lofty brow, +set in its fair curling hair, and the peaked beard curling and waving +about the throat, gave him the appearance of a Vandyck stepped from the +frame. He had the further peculiarity of eyes, dark hazel eyes, that +would have glowed like fever, if they were not perpetually wrapped in +dream. There was a certain air of careful breeding about him, different +from Earl St. George Erne's high-bred bearing, inasmuch as he insisted +upon his pedigree and St. George forgot his. Too fiery a Southerner to +seek the advantages of Northern colleges, he had educated himself in +England, and had contracted while at Oxford the habit of eating opium. +Returning home at his majority, and remaining long enough to establish +his own ideas, which were peculiarly despotic, upon his +property,--through many subsequent travels, tasting in each an +experience of all the folly and madness the great capitals of the world +afford, through all his life, indeed, this habit was the only thing +Marlboro' had not mastered. One other thing, albeit, there was, of which +Marlboro' was the slave, and that was the Marlboro' temper. + +Eloise returned his salutation cordially, and with a certain naughty +pleasure, since Mr. St. George was looking on, and since that person, +constituting himself her grim guardian, had in a manner warned her of +the other. Then she displayed her pretty little ink-stained hands, and +ran away. + +Mr. Marlboro' looked after her, and then turned to survey St. George. + +"Who would not be the Abelard to such an Eloise?" he said. + +There was no answer. St. George was filling a pipe, and whistling the +while a melancholy old tune. + +"I'll tell you what, St. George"---- + +Here he paused, and thrummed on the book in time to the tune. + +"You were about to impart some information?" + +"Has your little nun taken the black veil?" + +"It is no nun of my shriving." + +"Are you King Ahasuerus himself, to have lived so long in the house with +Miss Changarnier, may I ask, and to have thrown no handkerchief?" + +"There is some confusion in your rhetoric. But it is not I who am +tyrant,--it is she who stands for that;--I am only Mordecai the Jew +sitting in the king's gate. As so many Jews do to-day," muttered St. +George,--"ay, and on their thrones, too. I am afraid we are neither of +us very well up in our Biblical history. She is the Grand +Unapproachable." + +"_Tant mieux._ My way is all the clearer." + +"Your way to what?" + +"To the altar!" + +"Yes, you should have married long ago, Marlboro'," said Mr. St. George, +the pipe being lighted, the face looming out of azure wreaths, and the +heels taking an altitude. + +"I came home," said Marlboro', "to marry Eloise Changarnier." + +"That is exactly what I intend to do myself." + +"You!" + +Mr. Marlboro's eyes glistened like a topaz in the sun; but just then a +new guest arriving demanded Mr. St. George's attention. + +Meantime Eloise had found a feminine conclave assembled in her room, all +having prepared their own toilets, and ready to inspect the preparation +of hers; and as the work proceeded, Lottie Humphreys added herself to +the group, in grand _tenue_, and pushed Hazel aside, that she might bind +up Eloise's already braided hair, and indulge herself in the interim +with sundry fervent ejaculations. + +"Isn't he splendid?" whispered Lottie, while Laura compared bracelets +with Emma Houghton. "Oh, there, isn't he splendid? It's like the king +coming down from his throne, when he speaks to you; it puts my heart in +a flutter. How do you dare ask him to pass the butter? Now just tell +_me_. Are you engaged to him? Tell me truly, only shake your head, yes +or no. No? I don't believe a word you say. Mean to be? Then, I +declare----Suppose now, only just suppose, suppose he'd look at me?" + +"Oh, what a silly little goose you are, Lottie Humphreys! And you've put +geraniums in my hair, when I meant to wear those beautiful blue +poison-bells!" + +"I never saw any one so dark as you are wear so much blue." + +"But it's becoming to me, isn't it?" said Eloise, turning with her +smile, as radiant for Lottie as for Marlboro'. + +"St. George," said Marlboro', with a beaming face bent over his +shoulder, as he took Eloise out to dinner, "my intention was the +earlier; it will succeed!" + +"As being the eldest born and heir to the succession. Does the good +general expose his campaign?" + +"There we are quits. It is precisely as a good general that I exposed +it." + +"But did the Levites unveil the sacred ark?" said Mr. St. George, +severely. + +"We are talking freemasonry, Miss Changarnier," said Marlboro', and they +moved on. + + * * * * * + +Whether she would or not, Eloise found herself in exactly the same +position in the house as before her adopted father's death,--partly +because almost all the company, being old friends, recognized no +difference, partly because Mr. St. George silently chose it should be +so. She soon forgot herself entirely in the pleasure of it, and was +unconsciously, even towards Mr. St. George, so sweet and genial, so +blithe and bewitching, that his scanning glance would suddenly have to +fall, since an expression, he felt, entered it that he dared not have +her see. There was always a certain disarray about the costume of +Eloise; one tress of her hair was always drooping too low, or one thrust +back behind the beautiful temple and tiny ear, or a bracelet was half +undone, or a mantle dropping off,--trifles that only gave one the desire +to help her; she constantly wore, too, a scarf or shawl, or something of +the kind, and the drapery lent her a kind of tender womanliness, which +only such things do; then, too, she garnished her hair with flowers +always half falling away, somewhat faded with the warmth, and emitting +strong, rich fragrances in dying. When she laughed, and the brilliant +little teeth sparkled a contrast with the dark smooth skin, when she +thought, and her eyes glowed like tear-washed stars, Mr. St. George was +wont to turn abruptly away from the vision, unwilling to be so +controlled. But of that Eloise never dreamed. + +As for Marlboro', on the other hand, he was the moth in the candle. Of +Mr. Marlboro's devotion Eloise was quite aware,--and whereas, playing +with it the least bit in the world, she had at first enjoyed it, it grew +to irk her sadly; she used to beg her friends, in all manner of pretty +ways, to take him off her hands, and would resort from her own rooms to +theirs, assisting at their awful rites, and endeavoring to get them up +as charmingly as possible, that they might lure away her trouble. It was +in vain that Marlboro' tried to reopen the subject of their mute warfare +with St. George. St. George would not condescend, neither would he sully +Eloise's name by bandying it about with another lover. If Marlboro' +begged him to toss up for chances, St. George answered that he never +threw up a chance; when he went further and offered to stake success or +loss, St. George told him he had cast his last die; when he would have +spoken her name to him directly, St. George withered him with flamy +eyes, and let his manner become too rigid for one to dare more with him. +But the ladies had already caught the spirit of the thing, and made +little situations of it among themselves. Then when St. George became +impregnable to his attacks, Marlboro' pulled his blonde moustache +savagely, and grew sullen, and fortunately Eloise did not try to dispel +the cloud. Nevertheless, Marlboro' fancied that he perceived victory +hovering nearer to St. George than himself, and a rivalry begun in +good-humor was likely to take a different cast. In his pique, Marlboro' +bade his host farewell, and returned to Blue Bluffs; but it was idle +riding, for every day found him again at The Rim, like the old riddle,-- + + "All saddled, all bridled, all fit for a fight," + +and constant as the magnet to its poles. + +It was still the steps of Eloise that Marlboro' haunted. Yesterday, he +brought songs to teach her, and among them the chant to which long ago +they had once listened together in the old Norman cathedral; to-morrow, +he would show her a singular deposit on the beach, of rare silvery +shells underflushed with rose, kept there over a tide for her eyes; +to-day, he treated her to politics condensed into a single phrase whose +essence told all his philosophy:--"The great error in government," he +said, "is also inversely the great want in marriage: in government, +individuality should be supreme; in marriage, lost. In government, this +error is a triple-headed monster: centralization, consolidation, union." + +Mr. St. George heard him, and paused a moment before them, one evening, +as Marlboro' thus harangued Eloise. + +"Consolidation? Centralization?" said he. "The very things we all +oppose." + +"Nullification is a good solvent." + +"A ghost that is laid. There's a redder phantom than that on the +horizon, man!" + +"What are you talking about, politics or marriage?" + +"God forbid that I should soil a lady's ears with the first!" said Mr. +St. George, bowing to Eloise; "and as to the last,--I'll none of it!" + +And after Mr. Marlboro' had gone that night, as Eloise was about to +ascend to her own rooms, Mr. St. George came along again, and, lightly +taking the candle, held up the tiny flame before her face. + +"What has that _contrabandista_ been saying to you?" demanded Mr. St. +George. + +Eloise looked ignorantly up. + +"Gilding hell? Do not believe him! Never believe anything any one says, +when you know he is in love with you! Slavery is a curse! a curse that +we inherit for the sins of those drunken Cavaliers, our forefathers! Let +us make the best of it!" + +"Ah, Mr. St. George," said she, gayly, "this from you, for whom the +disciples claim Calhoun's mantle? For what, then, do you contend?" + +"For the right of being a free man myself! for the right of enduring +the dictation of no man in Maine or Louisiana! for the right to do as I +have the mind!" exclaimed Mr. St. George, in a ponderous and suppressed +under-voice that rang through her head half-way up-stairs. + +Long before, Mr. St. George had very courteously begged Eloise to take a +vacation during the stay of their friends, but she had so peremptorily +and utterly refused to do so that it ended by his spending the long +morning with her in the cabinet, either over certain neglected arrears, +or while she wrote letters under his royal dictation, and Hazel sewed a +laborious seam between them, as always. Here, at length, after +sufficient tantalization by its means, Marlboro' venturously intruded +himself every day. Too familiar for interruption, he took another seat, +and watched her swift hand's graceful progress. If her pen delayed, she +found another awaiting her,--her posture wearied, a footstool was rolled +towards her feet,--her side cramped, behold, a cushion,--she looked for +fresh paper, it fell before her: all somewhat slavish service, and which +Hazel could have rendered as well. Used to slaves, would she have +preferred a master? Whether Miss Changarnier relished these abject +kindnesses better than Mr. St. George's imperious exactions was +precisely the thing that puzzled the two gentlemen. + +Meanwhile, during all this gay season, if Eloise had thought of once +looking about her, which she never did, she would have seen, that, in +whatever group she was, there, too, was Mr. St. George,--that, if they +rode three abreast down the great park-avenues, though she laughed with +Evan Murray, it was to Mr. St. George's horse that her bridle was +secured,--and that, when she sang, it was St. George who jested and +smiled and lightly talked the while,--not that her music was not sweet, +but that its spell was too strong for him to endure beneath his mask. +Yet Eloise drew no deductions; if at first she noticed that it was he +who laid the shawl on her shoulders, if she remembered, that, when he +fastened her dropping bracelet, biting his lip and looking down, he held +the wrist an instant with a clasp that left its whitened pressure there, +she remembered, too, that he never spoke to her, were it avoidable, that +he failed in small politenesses of the footstool or the fan, and that, +if once he had looked at her in an instant's intentness of singular +expression, and let a smile well up and flood his eyes and lips and +face, in a heart-beat it had faded, and he was standing with folded arms +and looking sternly away beyond her, while she caught herself still +sitting there and bending forward and smiling up at him like a flower +beneath the sun;--to atone for her remissness, she was frowning and cool +and curt to Earl St. George for days. + + * * * * * + +It was about this time, that, one night, when Hazel passed the tea, +Eloise's eye, wandering a moment, suddenly woke from a little apathy and +observed that there was no widow's cap on Mrs. Arles's hair, that it had +refined away through various shades of lace till at last even the +delicate cobweb on the back of the head was gone and the glossy locks +lay bare, that the sables had become simply black gauze over a steely +shine of silk, that the little Andalusian foot lay relieved on a white +embroidered cushion, that its owner was glancing up and smiling at a +gentleman who bent above her, and that that gentleman was Mr. St. +George. When this change had taken place, and whether it had been abrupt +or gradual, her careless eye could not tell; and, forgetting her own +part momentarily in order to take in the whole of the drama in which +they were all acting, Eloise spilled her tea and made some work for +Hazel. As the girl rectified her mishap, it flashed on Eloise that she +had done nothing more about her suit; she noticed, too, how pale Hazel +was, and how subdued and still in all her movements; she remembered that +probably Vane had found it impossible to see her and to elude his +ever-present master; and she thereupon availed herself of his first +disengaged moment to stand at Mr. St. George's side, and ask him if he +had ever thought again of a request she had once made him. + +"I was thinking of it at this moment," he replied, looking at her with +something like sunshine suffusing the brown depth of his eyes; "but the +truth is, I am not on such terms with Marlboro' that I may demand a +favor." + +"Then _I_ shall." + +"On your peril!" he cried, with hasty rigor. + +But Eloise escaped, trailing one end of her scarf behind, looking back +at him, laughing, and shaking her threatening fan as he stepped after +her. And then Mr. St. George resumed his haughty silence. + +Eloise went down the hall after Hazel. She found her in the empty +dining-room, having just set down the salver; the last light, that, +stealing in, illumined all the paintings of clusters of fruit and +bunches of flowers upon the white panelling, had yet a little ray to +spare for the girl where she crouched with her sobs, her apron flung +above her head; and when Eloise laid her hand gently on her shoulder, +she sprang as if one had struck her. + +"Oh, Miss 'Loise! Miss 'Loise! I'm in such trouble!" she gasped. + +It did not take long for the little story to find the air. Vane and +Hazel, secure of Eloise's efforts, had married. It was one of the +immutable Blue Bluffs laws that they had broken: there were no marriages +allowed off the place there. Vane was expiating his offence no one knew +where, and there were even rumors that he had already been sent away to +the Cuban plantation of the Marlboro's, whither all refractory slaves +were wont to journey. + +Eloise went slowly back to the drawing-room, then out upon the piazza, +and with her went that bending grace that accompanied her least motion, +and always reminded you of a flower swaying on its stem. Mr. Marlboro' +leaned there, listening to Miss Murray's singing within. Eloise went and +took her place beside him, while his face brightened. He had been eating +opium again, and his eyes were full of dreams. From where they stood +upon the piazza they could see the creek winding, a strip of silvery +redness, along the coast, and far in the distance where it met the sea, +a film upon the sky, rose the dim castellated height of Blue Bluffs, +like an azure mist. + +"There is something there that I want," said Eloise, archly, looking at +the Bluffs. + +"There? you shall not wish twice." + +Then Hazel approaching, as by signal, offered Mr. Marlboro' a cup, which +he declined without gesture or glance, while there gleamed in her eye a +subtle look that told how easy it would have been to brew poison for +this man who had such an ungodly power over her fate. + +"That is my little maid," said Eloise. "I have lent her to Mrs. Arles +awhile, though. Is she not pretty,--Hazel?" + +"That is Hazel, then? A very witch-hazel!" + +"Yes." + +"And you want Vane?" + +"Yes, Mr. Marlboro'." + +"I did not know she was your maid. But the offence of Vane, if +overlooked, would be a breach of discipline entailing too hazardous +effects. Authority should never relax. What creeps through the iron +fingers once can creep again. The gentle dews distilling through the +pores of the granite congeal in the first frost and rend the rock. I +would have difficulty, Miss Eloise, in pardoning such an offence to you, +yourself. Ah, yes, that would be impossible, by Heaven!" + +Eloise laughed in her charming way, and said,-- + +"But, Mr. Marlboro', would it not be an admirable lesson to your people, +if Vane were sold?" + +"A lesson to teach them all to go and do likewise, eh, Marlboro'?" said +St. George, passing, with Miss Humphreys on his arm. + +"I have never sold, I never sell, a slave," replied Marlboro', in his +placid tone; but St. George was out of hearing. "Yet, Miss +Eloise,--if--if you will accept him"---- + +"Mr. Marlboro'! Indeed? Truly indeed? How happy you make me!" + +"And you can make me as happy,--happier, by the infinity of heaven over +earth!" + +"But ought I to accept such a gift?" asked Eloise, oblivious of his last +speech. "But can I?--may I?"--as St. George's warning stole into her +memory. + +"Most certainly you can! most certainly you shall! he is yours!" And +before Eloise could pour forth one of her multitudinous thanks, he had +moved away. + +Marlboro's, however, was not that noble nature that spurns to beg at the +moment when it grants. Directly, he had wheeled about, and with an eager +air was again beside her. + +"And, Eloise," he said, "if in response I might have one smile, one +hope"---- + +Thoughtlessly enough, Eloise turned her smiling face upon him, and gave +him her hand. + +"And you give it to me at last, this hand, to crown my life!" he +said,--for to his excited brain the trifling deed seemed the weighty +event, and when he looked up Eloise still was smiling. Only for a +second, though, for her processes of thought were not instantaneous, +while to him it was one of Mahomet's moments holding an eternity, and +she smiled while she was thinking, thinking simply of her little +handmaiden's pleasure. She tried to release her hand. But Mr. Marlboro' +did not know that his grasp upon it was that of a vice, for under an +artificial stimulus every action is as intense as the fired fancy +itself. And as she found it impossible to free it without visible +violence, other thoughts visited Eloise. Why should she not give it to +him? Who else cared for it? What object had her lonely life? Speak +sweetly as they might, what one of her old gallants forgot her loss of +wealth? Here was a man to make happy, here was a heart to rest upon, +here was a slave of his own passions to set free. Why should she +continue to live with Mr. St. George for her haughty master, when here +was this man at her feet? Why, but that suddenly the conviction smote +her that she loved the one and despised the other, that she adored the +master and despised the slave? And she snatched away her hand. + +Just then Mr. St. George was coming down the piazza again, on his +promenade, his head bent low as he spoke to the clinging little lady on +his arm. Passing Eloise, as he raised his face, their eyes met. She was +doing, he thought, the very thing that he had disadvised, and, as if to +warn her afresh, he looked long, a derisive smile curling his proud lip. +That was enough. "He knows it!" exclaimed Eloise to herself. "He +believes it! He thinks I love him! He never shall be sure of it!" And +turning once more, her face hung down and away, she laid her hand in +Marlboro's, without a word or a glance. He bent low over it in the +shadow, pressing it with his fervent lips, murmuring, "Mine! mine at +last! my own!" And St. George saw the whole. + +Just then a little sail crept in sight from where they stood, winding +down the creek at the foot of the lawn. + +"Oh, how delightful to be on the water to-night!" cried Laura Murray. + +"You have but to command," said Mr. St. George, with a certain gayety +that seemed struck out like sparks against the flinty fact of the late +occurrence,--and half the party trooped down the turf to the shore. The +boats were afloat and laden before one knew it. Mr. Marlboro' and Eloise +were just one instant too late. Laura Murray shook a triumphant +handkerchief at them, and St. George feathered his oar, pausing a moment +as if he would return, and then gave a great sweep and his boat fairly +leaped over the water. + +Mr. Marlboro' did not hesitate. There was the sail they had first seen, +now on the point of being lowered beneath the alder-bushes by the young +hunters who had sought shore for the night. Gold slipped from one hand +to another, a word, a name, and a promise. Eloise was on board, +expecting Mrs. Arles and Mrs. Houghton to follow. Marlboro' sprang upon +the end, and drew in the rope behind him, waving the other ladies a +farewell; the sails were stretched again, the rudder shipped, and wing +and wing they went skimming down the channel, past the little fleet of +wherries, ploughing the shallow current into foam and spray on their +wild career. + +"Marlboro' is mad!" said St. George, with a whitening cheek. + +Marlboro', standing up, one arm about the mast, and catching the slant +beam of the late-rising moon on his face, that shone awfully rapt and +intent, saluted them with an ironical cheer, and dashed on. Eloise held +the tiller for the moment, still pulsating with her late emotions, not +above a trifling play of vanity, welcoming the exhilaration of a race, +where she might half forget her trouble, and pleased with a vague +anticipation of some intervention that might recall the word which even +in these five dragging moments had already begun to corrode and eat into +her heart like a rusting fetter. The oarsmen in the wherries bent their +muscles to the strife, the boats danced over the tiny crests, the ladies +sang their breeziest sea-songs to cheer them at the work. The sail-boat +rounded a curve and was almost out of sight. + +"Oars never caught sails yet," muttered St. George, and he put his boat +to the shore. "There, Murray, try your lazy mettle, and take my oar. As +for me, I'm off,"--and he sprang upon the bank, sending the boat +spinning off into the current again from his foot. In ten minutes a +horseman went galloping by on the high-road skirting the shore, with a +pace like that of the Spectre of the Storm. + +"Now, Mr. Marlboro'," said Eloise, "shall we not turn back, victorious?" + +"Turn?" said Marlboro', shaking loose another fold of the linen. "I +never turn! Look your last on the tiny tribe,--we shall see them no +more!" + +Eloise sprang to her feet. He caught her hand and replaced her; his face +was so white that it shone, there was a wild glitter in his eye, and the +smile that brooded over her had something in it absolutely terrific. + +"We have gone far enough," said Eloise, resolutely. "I wish to rejoin my +friends." + +"You are with me!" said Marlboro', proudly. + +She was afraid to say another word, for to oppose him now in his +exultant rage might only work the mood to frenzy. The creek had widened +almost to a river,--the sea was close at hand, with its great tumbling +surf. She looked at the horizon and the hill for help, but none came; +destruction was before them, and on they flew. + +Marlboro' stood now, and steadied the tiller with his foot. + +"This is motion!" said he. "We fly upon the wings of the wind! The +viewless wind comes roaring out of the black region of the East, it +fills the high heaven, it roars on to the uttermost undulation of the +atmosphere, and we are a part of it! We are only a mote upon its breath, +a dust-atom driven before it, Eloise,--and yet one great happiness is +greater than it, drowns it in a vaster flood of viewless power, can +whisper to it calm!" + +How should Eloise contradict him? With such rude awakening, he might +only snatch her in his arms and plunge down to death. Perhaps he half +divined the fear. + +"Yes, Eloise," he said. "They are both here, life and death, at our +beck! I can take you to my heart, one instant the tides divide, then +they close above us, and you are mine for ever and ever and +only,--sealed mine beneath all this crystal sphere of the waters! We +hear the gentle lapping of the ripples on the shore, we hear the tones +of evening-bells swim out and melt above us, we hear the oar shake off +its shower of tinkling drops,--up the jewel-strewn deeps of heaven the +planets hang out their golden lamps to light our slumbers! Heart to +heart and lip to lip, we are at rest, we are at peace, nothing comes +between us, our souls have the eternities in which to mingle!" + +He saw Eloise shudder, and turned from his dream, blazing full upon her. +"Life, then, is best!" he cried. "But life together and alone, life +where we count out its throbs in some far purple island of the main, +prolonged who knows how far?--love shall make for us perpetual youth, +there shall no gloom enter our Eden, perfect solitude and perfect bliss! +Alone, we two in our pride and our joy can defy the powers of any other +heaven, we shall become gods ourselves! Up helm and away! Life is best!" + + + + +THE NEVA. + + + I walk, as in a dream, + Beside the sweeping stream, + Wrapped in the summer midnight's amber haze: + Serene the temples stand, + And sleep, on either hand, + The palace-fronts along the granite quays. + + Where golden domes, remote, + Above the sea-mist float, + The river-arms, dividing, hurry forth; + And Peter's fortress-spire, + A slender lance of fire, + Still sparkles back the splendor of the North. + + The pillared angel soars + Above the silent shores; + Dark from his rock the horseman hangs in air; + And down the watery line + The exiled Sphinxes pine + For Karnak's morning in the mellow glare. + + I hear, amid the hush, + The restless current's rush, + The Neva murmuring through his crystal zone: + A voice portentous, deep, + To charm a monarch's sleep + With dreams of power resistless as his own. + + Strong from the stormy Lake, + Pure from the springs that break + In Valdai vales the forest's mossy floor, + Greener than beryl-stone + From fir woods vast and lone, + In one full stream the braided currents pour. + + "Build up your granite piles + Around my trembling isles," + I hear the River's scornful Genius say: + "Raise for eternal time + Your palaces sublime, + And flash your golden turrets in the day! + + "But in my waters cold + A mystery I hold,-- + Of empires and of dynasties the fate: + I bend my haughty will, + Unchanged, unconquered still, + And smile to note your triumph: mine can wait. + + "Your fetters I allow, + As a strong man may bow + His sportive neck to meet a child's command, + And curb the conscious power + That in one awful hour + Could whelm your halls and temples where they stand. + + "When infant Rurik first + His Norseland mother nursed, + My willing flood the future chieftain bore: + To Alexander's fame + I lent my ancient name, + What time my waves ran red with Pagan gore. + + "Then Peter came. I laughed + To feel his little craft + Borne on my bosom round the marshy isles: + His daring dream to aid, + My chafing floods I laid, + And saw my shores transfixed with arrowy piles. + + "I wait the far-off day + When other dreams shall sway + The House of Empire builded by my side,-- + Dreams that already soar + From yonder palace-door, + And cast their wavering colors on my tide,-- + + "Dreams where white temples rise + Below the purple skies, + By waters blue, which winter never frets,-- + Where trees of dusky green + From terraced gardens lean, + And shoot on high the reedy minarets. + + "Shadows of mountain-peaks + Vex my unshadowed creeks; + Dark woods o'erhang my silvery birchen bowers; + And islands, bald and high, + Break my clear round of sky, + And ghostly odors blow from distant flowers. + + "Then, ere the cold winds chase + These visions from my face, + I see the starry phantom of a crown, + Beside whose blazing gold + This cheating pomp is cold, + A moment hover, as the veil drops down. + + "Build on! That day shall see + My streams forever free. + Swift as the wind, and silent as the snow, + The frost shall split each wall: + Your domes shall crack and fall: + My bolts of ice shall strike your barriers low!" + + On palace, temple, spire, + The morn's descending fire + In thousand sparkles o'er the city fell: + Life's rising murmur drowned + The Neva where he wound + Between his isles: he keeps his secret well. + + + + +ROBSON. + + +In the whole of London there is not a dirtier, narrower, and more +disreputable thoroughfare than Wych Street. It runs from that lowest +part of Drury Lane where Nell Gwyn once had her lodgings, and stood at +her door in very primitive costume to see the milkmaids go a-Maying, and +parallel to Holywell Street and the Strand, into the church-yard of St. +Clements Danes. No good, it was long supposed, could ever come out of +Wych Street. The place had borne an evil name for centuries. Up a +horrible little court branching northward from it good old George +Cruikshank once showed me the house where Jack Sheppard, the robber and +prison-breaker, served his apprenticeship to Mr. Wood, the carpenter; +and on a beam in the loft of this house Jack is said to have carved his +name. When the pavement of the Strand is under repair, Wych Street +becomes, perforce, the principal channel of communication between the +east and the west end; and Theodore Hook used to say that he never +passed through Wych Street in a hackney-coach without being blocked up +by a hearse and a coal-wagon in the van, and a mud-cart and the Lord +Mayor's carriage in the rear. Wych Street is among the highways we +English are ashamed to show to foreigners. We have threatened to pull it +down bodily, any time these two hundred years, and a portion of the +southern side, on which the old Lyons Inn abutted, has indeed been +razed, preparatory to the erection of a grand metropolitan hotel on the +American system; but the funds appear not to be forthcoming; the scheme +languishes; and, on the other side of the street, another legal +hostelry, New Inn, still flourishes in weedy dampness, immovable in the +strength of vested interests. Many more years must, I am afraid, elapse +before we get rid of Wych Street. It is full of quaint old Tudor houses, +with tall gables, carved porches, and lattice-casements; but the +picturesque appearance of these tenements compensates but ill for their +being mainly dens of vice and depravity, inhabited by the vilest +offscourings of the enormous city. Next to _Napoli senza sole_, Wych +Street, Drury Lane, is, morally and physically, about the shadiest +street I know. + +In Wych Street stands, nevertheless, an oasis in the midst of a desert, +a pretty and commodious little theatre, called the Olympic. The +entertainments here provided have earned, for brilliance and elegance, +so well-deserved a repute, that the Olympic Theatre has become one of +the most favorite resorts of the British aristocracy. The Brahminical +classes appear oblivious of the yellow streak of caste, when they come +hither. On four or five nights in every week during the season, Drury +Lane is rendered well-nigh impassable by splendid equipages which have +conveyed dukes and marquises and members of Parliament to the Olympic. +Frequently, but prior to the lamented death of Prince Albert, you might +observe, if you passed through Wych Street in the forenoon, a little +platform, covered with faded red cloth, and shaded by a dingy, striped +awning, extending from one of the entrance-doors of the Olympic to the +edge of the sidewalk. The initiated became at once aware that Her Most +Gracious Majesty intended to visit the Olympic Theatre that very +evening. The Queen of England goes to theatres no more; but the Prince +of Wales and his pretty young wife, the stout, good-tempered Duke of +Cambridge, and his sister, the bonny Princess Mary, are still constant +visitors to Wych Street. So gorgeous is often the assemblage in this +murkiest of streets, that you are reminded of the days when the French +_noblesse_, in all the pride of hoops and hair-powder, deigned to flock +to the lowly wine-shop of Ramponneau. + +My business, however, is less with the Olympic Theatre, as it at present +exists, than with its immediate predecessor. About fifteen years ago, +there stood in Wych Street a queer, low-browed little building with a +rough wooden portico before it,--not unlike such a portico as I have +recently seen in front of a dilapidated inn at Culpepper, Virginia,--and +with little blinking windows, very much resembling the port-holes of a +man-of-war. According to tradition, the place had, indeed, a kind of +naval origin. Old King George III., who, when he was not mad, or +meddling with politics, was really a good-natured kind of man, once made +Philip Astley, the riding-master, and proprietor of the circus in South +Lambeth, a present of a dismantled seventy-four gun-ship captured from +the French. With these timbers, some lath and plaster, a few bricks, and +a little money, Astley ran up a theatre dedicated to the performance of +interludes and _burlettas_,--that is, of pieces in which the dialogue +was not spoken, but sung, in order to avoid interference with the +patent-rights of Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In our days, this edifice +was known as the Olympic. When I knew this theatre first, it had fallen +into a state of seemingly hopeless decadence. Nobody succeeded there. To +lease the Olympic Theatre was to court bankruptcy and invite collapse. +The charming Vestris had been its tenant for a while. There Liston and +Wrench had delighted the town with their most excellent fooling. There +many of Planche's most sparkling burlesques had been produced. There a +perfect boudoir of a green-room had been fitted up by Bartolozzi's +beautiful and witty daughter; and there Hook and Jerrold, Haynes Bayley +and A' Beckett had uttered their wittiest sayings. But the destiny of +the Olympic was indomitable. There was nae luck about the house; and +Eliza Vestris went bankrupt at last. Management after management tried +its fortunes in the doomed little house, but without success. Desperate +adventurers seized upon it as a last resource, or chose it as a place +wherein to consummate their ruin. The Olympic was contiguous to the +Insolvent Debtors' Court, in Portugal Street, and from the paint-pots of +the Olympic scene-room to the whitewash of the commercial tribunal there +was but one step. + +It must have been in 1848 that the famous comedian, William Farren, +having realized a handsome fortune as an actor, essayed to lose a +considerable portion of his wealth by becoming a manager. He succeeded +in the last-named enterprise quite as completely as he had done in the +other: I mean, that he lost a large sum of money in the Olympic Theatre. +He played all kinds of pieces: among others, he gave the public two very +humorous burlesques, founded on Shakspeare's plays of "Macbeth" and "The +Merchant of Venice." The authors were two clever young Oxford men: Frank +Talfourd, the son of the poet-Judge,--father and son are, alas! both +dead,--and William Hale, the son of the well-known Archdeacon and Master +of the Charter-House. Shakspearian burlesques were no novelty to the +town. We had had enough and to spare of them. W. J. Hammond, the +original _Sam Weller_ in the dramatized version of "Pickwick," had made +people laugh in "Macbeth Travestie" and "Othello according to Act of +Parliament." The Olympic burlesques were slightly funnier, and not +nearly so coarse as their forerunners; but they were still of no +striking salience. Poorly mounted, feebly played,--save in one +particular,--they drew but thin houses. Gradually, however, you began to +hear at clubs and in critical coteries--at the Albion and the Garrick +and the Cafe de l'Europe, at Evans's and at Kilpack's, at the Reunion in +Maiden Lane and at Rules's oyster-room, where poor Albert Smith used to +reign supreme--rumors about a new actor. The new man was playing +_Macbeth_ and _Shylock_ in Talfourd and Hale's parodies. He was a little +stunted fellow, not very well-favored, not very young. Nobody--among the +bodies who were anybody--had ever heard of him before. Whence he came, +or what he was, none knew; but everybody came at last to care. For this +little stunted creature, with his hoarse voice and nervous gestures and +grotesque delivery, his snarls, his leers, his hunchings of the +shoulders, his contortions of the limbs, his gleaming of the eyes, and +his grindings of the teeth, was a genius. He became town-talk. He +speedily grew famous. He has been an English, I might almost say a +European, I might almost say a worldwide celebrity ever since; and his +name was FREDERICK ROBSON. + +Eventually it was known, when the town grew inquisitive, and the critics +were compelled to ferret out his antecedents, that the new actor had +already attained middle age,--that he had been vegetating for years in +that obscurest and most miserable of all dramatic positions, the low +comedian of a country-theatre,--that he had come timidly to London and +accepted at a low salary the post of buffoon at a half-theatre +half-saloon in the City Road, called indifferently the "Grecian" and the +"Eagle," where he had danced and tumbled, and sung comic songs, and +delivered the dismal waggeries set down for him, without any marked +success, and almost without notice. He was a quiet, unassuming little +man, this Robson, seemingly without vanity and without ambition. He had +a wife and family to maintain, and drew his twenty-five or thirty +shillings weekly with perfect patience and resignation. + +A weary period, however, elapsed between his appearance at the Olympic +and his realization of financial success. The critics and the +connoisseurs talked about him a long time before the public could be +persuaded to go and see him, or the manager to raise his salary. That +doomed house with the wooden portico was in the way. At last the +wretched remnant of the French seventy-four caught fire and was burned +to the ground. Its ill-luck was consistent to the last. A poor actor, +named Bender, had engaged the Olympic for a benefit. He was to pay +twenty pounds for the use of the house. He had just sold nineteen +pounds' worth of tickets, and trusted to the casual receipts at the door +for his profits. At a few minutes before six o'clock, having to play in +the first piece, he proceeded to the theatre, and entered his +dressing-room. By half-past six the whole house was in a blaze. Bender, +half undressed, had only time to save himself; and his coat, with the +nineteen pounds in the pocket, fell a prey to the flames. After this, +will you tell me that there is not such a thing as ill-luck? + +The Olympic arose "like a phoenix from its ashes." To use language +less poetical, a wealthy tradesman--a cheesemonger, I think--found the +capital to build up a new theatre. The second edifice was elegant, and +almost splendid; but in the commencement it seemed fated to undergo as +evil fortune as its precursor. I cannot exactly remember whether it was +in the old or the new Olympic--but I think it was in the new one--that +the notorious Walter Watts ran a brief and sumptuous career as manager. +He produced many pieces, some of them his own, in a most luxurious +manner. He was a man about town, a _viveur_, a dandy; and it turned out +one morning that Walter Watts had been, all along, a clerk in the Globe +Insurance Office, at a salary of a hundred and fifty pounds a year; and +that he had swindled his employers out of enormous sums of money. He was +tried, nominally for stealing "a piece of paper, value one penny," being +a check which he had abstracted; but it was understood that his +defalcations were little short of ninety thousand pounds sterling. Watts +was convicted, and sentenced to ten years' transportation. The poor +wretch was not of the heroically villanous mould in which the dashing +criminals who came after him, Robson and Redpath, were cast. He was +troubled with a conscience. He had drunk himself into delirium tremens; +and starting from his pallet one night in a remorseful frenzy, he hanged +himself in the jail. + +It was during the management of Alfred Wigan at the New Olympic that +Frederick Robson began to be heard of again. An old, and not a very +clever farce, by one of the Brothers Mayhew, entitled "The Wandering +Minstrel," had been revived. In this farce, Robson was engaged to play +the part of _Jem Baggs_, an itinerant vocalist and flageolet-player, +who, in tattered attire, roams about from town to town, making the air +hideous with his performances. The part was a paltry one, and Robson, +who had been engaged mainly at the instance of the manager's wife, a +very shrewd and appreciative lady, who persisted in declaring that the +ex-low-comedian of the Grecian had "something in him," eked it out by +singing an absurd ditty called "Vilikins and his Dinah." The words and +the air of "Vilikins" were, if not literally as old as the hills, +considerably older than the age of Queen Elizabeth. The story told in +the ballad, of a father's cruelty, a daughter's anguish, a sweetheart's +despair, and the ultimate suicide of both the lovers, is, albeit couched +in uncouth and grotesque language, as pathetic as the tragedy of "Romeo +and Juliet." Robson gave every stanza a nonsensical refrain of "Right +tooral lol looral, right tooral lol lay." At times, when his audience +was convulsed with merriment, he would come to a halt, and gravely +observe, "This is not a comic song"; but London, was soon unanimous that +such exquisite comicality had not been heard for many a long year. +"Vilikins and his Dinah" created a _furore_. My countrymen are always +going mad about something; and Englishmen and Englishwomen all agreed to +go crazy about "Vilikins." "Right tooral lol looral" was on every lip. +Robson's portrait as _Jem Baggs_ was in every shop-window. A newspaper +began an editorial with the first line in "Vilikins,"-- + + "It's of a liquor-merchant who in London did dwell." + +A Judge of Assize absolutely fined the High Sheriff of a county one +hundred pounds for the mingled contempt shown in neglecting to provide +him with an escort of javelin-men and introducing the irrepressible +"Right tooral lol looral" into a speech delivered at the opening of +circuit. Nor was the song all that was wonderful in _Jem Baggs_. His +"make-up" was superb. The comic genius of Robson asserted itself in an +inimitable lagging gait, an unequalled snivel, a coat and pantaloons +every patch on and every rent in which were artistic, and a hat +inconceivably battered, crunched, and bulged out of normal, and into +preternatural shape. + +New triumphs awaited him. In the burlesque of "The Yellow Dwarf," he +showed a mastery of the grotesque which approached the terrible. Years +before, in _Macbeth_, he had personated a red-headed, fire-eating, +whiskey-drinking Scotchman,--and in _Shylock_, a servile, fawning, +obsequious, yet, when emergency arose, a passionate and vindictive Jew. +In the _Yellow Dwarf_ he was the jaundiced embodiment of a spirit of +Oriental evil: crafty, malevolent, greedy, insatiate,--full of mockery, +mimicry, lubricity, and spite,--an Afrit, a Djinn, a Ghoul, a spawn of +Sheitan. How that monstrous orange-tawny head grinned and wagged! How +those flaps of ears were projected forwards, like unto those of a dog! +How balefully those atrabilious eyes glistened! You laughed, and yet you +shuddered. He spoke in mere doggerel and slang. He sang trumpery songs +to negro melodies. He danced the Lancashire clog-hornpipe; he rattled +out puns and conundrums; yet did he contrive to infuse into all this +mummery and buffoonery, into this salmagundi of the incongruous and the +_outre_, an unmistakably tragic element,--an element of depth and +strength and passion, and almost of sublimity. The mountebank became +inspired. The Jack Pudding suddenly drew the _cothurnus_ over his clogs. +You were awe-stricken by the intensity, the vehemence, he threw into the +mean balderdash of the burlesque-monger. These qualities were even more +apparent in his subsequent personation of _Medea_, in Robert Brough's +parody of the Franco-Italian tragedy. The love, the hate, the scorn, of +the abandoned wife of _Jason_, the diabolic loathing in which she holds +_Creuesa_, the tigerish affection with which she regards the children +whom she is afterwards to slay,--all these were portrayed by Robson, +through the medium, be it always remembered, of doggerel and slang, with +astonishing force and vigor. The original _Medea_, the great Ristori +herself, came to see Robson, and was delighted with and amazed at him. +She scarcely understood two words of English, but the actor's genius +struck her home through the bull's-hide target of an unknown tongue. +_"Uomo straordinario!"_ she went away saying. + +I have anticipated the order of his successes, but at this distance of +time and places I can keep no chronological count of them. Robson has +always alternated the serio-comic burlesque with pure farce, and after +_Jem Baggs_ his brightest hits have been in the deaf ostler in "Boots at +the Swan" and the discharged criminal in "Retained for the Defence." In +the burlesque of "Masaniello," he had an opportunity--which some thought +would prove a magnificent one to him--of showing the grotesque side of +insanity; but, for some reason or other, the part seemed distasteful to +him. It may have been repugnant to his eminently sensitive spirit to +exhibit the ludicrous aspect of the most dreadful of human infirmities. +_A peste, fame, bello, et dementia libera nos, Domine!_ Perhaps the +piece itself was weak. At all events, "Masaniello" had but a brief run. +A drunken man, a jealous man, a deaf man, a fool, a vagabond, a demon, a +tyrant, Robson could marvellously depict: in the crazy Neapolitan +fisherman he either failed or was unwilling to excel. I had been for a +long period extremely solicitous to see Robson undertake the part of +_Sir Giles Overreach_ in "A New Way to pay Old Debts." You know that +_Sir Giles_, after the discovery of the obliterated deed, goes stark +staring mad. I should have wished to see him assume Edmund Kean's own +character in the real play itself; but Robson was nervous of venturing +on a purely "legitimate" _role_. I was half persuaded to write a +burlesque on "A New Way to pay Old Debts," and Robson had promised to do +his very best with _Sir Giles_; but a feeling, half of laziness, and +half of reverence for the fine old drama, came over me, and I never got +farther than the first scene. + +By this time some of the foremost dramatists in London thought they +could discern in Robson latent characteristics of a nature far more +elevated than those which his previous performances had brought into +play. It was decided by those who had a right to render an authoritative +verdict, that he would shine best in that which we call the "domestic +drama." Here it was thought his broad fun, rustic waggery, and curious +mastery of provincial dialect might admirably contrast with the +melodramatic intensity, and the homely, but touching pathos of which in +so eminent a degree he was the master. Hence the dramas, written +expressly and deliberately to his measure and capacity, of "Daddy +Hardacre," "The Porter's Knot," and "The Chimney-Corner." When I say +written, I mean, of course, translated. Our foremost dramatists have not +yet ceased to borrow from the French; but, like the gypsies, they so +skilfully mutilate the children they have stolen, that the theft becomes +almost impossible to detect. Not one person in five hundred, for +instance, would discover at first sight that a play so apparently +English in conception and structure as the "Ticket-of-Leave Man" is, in +reality, a translation from the French. + +The success achieved by Robson in the dramas I have named was extended, +and was genuine. In _Daddy Hardacre_, a skilful adaptation of the usurer +in Balzac's "Eugenie Grandet," he was tremendous. It made me more than +ever wishful to see him in the griping, ruthless _Overreach_, foiled at +last in his wicked ambition and driven to frenzy by the destruction of +the document by which he thought to satisfy his lust of gain. Moliere's +_Avare_ I thought he would have acted wonderfully; Ben Jonson's +_Volpone_, in "The Fox," he would surely have understood, and powerfully +rendered. In the devoted father of "The Porter's Knot" he was likewise +most excellent: quiet, unaffected, unobtrusive, never forcing sentiment +upon you, never obtaining tears by false pretences, but throughout +solid, sterling, natural, admirable. I came at last, however, to the +conviction, that, marked as was the distinction gained by this good +actor in parts such as these, and as the lighthouse-keeper--the +character originally sustained in private by Charles Dickens--in Wilkie +Collins's play, domestic drama was not his _forte_; or, rather, that it +was not his _fortissimo_. In fantastic burlesque, in the comic-terrible, +he was unrivalled and inimitable. In the domestic drama he could hardly +be surpassed, but he might be approached. Webster, Emery, Addison, could +play _Daddy Hardacre_, or the father in "The Porter's Knot"; but none +but himself could at once awe and convulse in _Medea_ and _the Yellow +Dwarf_. These domestic dramas interested, however, as much by their +subject as by the excellence of his acting. Moreover, the public are apt +sometimes to grow weary of burlesques,--their eternal grimacing and +word-torturing and negro-singing and dancing. Themes for parody become +exhausted, and, without long surcease, would not bear repetition. You +may grow puns, like tobacco, until the soil is utterly worn out. The +burlesque-writers, too, exhibited signs of weariness and feebleness. +Planche retired into the Heralds' College. The cleverest of the Broughs +died. His surviving brother was stupid. Talfourd went to the law before +he found an early grave. Hale went to India. The younger generation were +scarcely fit to write pantomimes, and it was not always Christmas. +Besides, Robson had become a manager, and thought, perhaps, that +weightier parts became him. In copartnership with Mr. Emden, he had +succeeded Alfred Wigan as lessee of the Olympic, and there I hope he has +realized a fortune. But whenever his brief vacations occurred, and +actor-like he proceeded to turn them into gold by devoting to +performances in country-theatres those days and nights which should +properly have been given to rest and peace, he proved faithful to his +old loves, and _Jem Baggs_ and _Boots at the Swan_, _Medea_ and _the +Yellow Dwarf_, continued to be his favorite parts. + +The popularity attained in England by this most remarkable of modern +actors has never, since the public were first aware of his qualities, +decreased. Robson is always sure to draw. The nights of his playing, or +of his non-playing, at the Olympic, are as sure a gauge of the receipts +as the rising and falling of the mercury in the thermometer are of the +variations of the temperature. A month's absence of Robson from London +always brought about an alarming depletion in the Olympic treasury. +Unhappily, these absences have of late years become more frequent, and +more and more prolonged. The health of the great tragi-comedian has +gradually failed him. I have been for a long period without news from +him; but I much fear that the heyday of his health and strength is past. +The errors which made Edmund Kean, in the prime of life, a shattered +wreck, cannot be brought home to Frederick Robson. Rumors, the wildest +and the wickedest, have been circulated about him, as about every other +public man; but, to the best of my knowledge and belief, they are wholly +destitute of foundation. _Don Basilio_, in Beaumarchais's play, might +have added some very pregnant advice to his memorable counsel, +"_Calomniez, calomniez, il en resultera toujours quelque chose_." He +should have taught the world--if the world wants teaching--_how_ to +calumniate. The following recipe will be found, I think, infallible. If +your enemy be a man of studious and retired habits, hint that he has +gone mad; if you see him alone at a theatre or at church, report that he +is separated from his wife; _and in any case, declare that he drinks_. +He can't disprove it. If he drinks water out-of-doors, he may drink like +a fish at home. If he walks straight on the street, he may reel in the +parlor. + +Thus, scores of times, the gossip-mongers of English provincial +papers--the legion of "our own correspondents," who are a nuisance and a +curse to reputable society, wherever that society is to be found--have +attributed the vacillating health and the intermittent retirements from +the stage of the great actor to an over-fondness for brandy-and-water. +The sorrowful secret of all this is, I apprehend, that poor Robson has +for years been overworking himself,--and that latterly prosperity has +laid as heavy a tax upon his time and energy as necessity imposed upon +them when he was young. Dame Fortune, whether she smile, or whether she +frown, never ceases to be a despot. Over Dives and over Lazarus she +equally tyrannizes. In wealth and in poverty does she exact the pound of +flesh or the pound of soul. There are seasons in a man's life when +Fortune with a radiant savageness cries out to him, "Confound you! you +_shall_ make fifty thousand a year"; and she drives him onward to the +goal quite as remorselessly as ever slave-owner drove negro into a +rice-ground. The whip that is made of golden wire hurts quite as much, I +opine, as the cowhide. And when, at last, the fortunate man cries out, +"I am rich, I have enough, _Sat me lusistis, ludite nunc alios_, I will +work and fret myself no more, I will retire on my dividends, and sit me +down under my own fig-tree,"--Fortune dismisses him with a sneer: +"Retire, if you like!" cries the implacable, "but take hypochondria and +_ennui_, take gout and the palsy, with you." + +I should be infinitely rejoiced to hear, when I go back, that Robson is +once more a hale and valid man. It is the tritest of platitudes to say +that he could ill be spared by the English stage. We never _can_ spare a +good actor. As well can we spare a good book or a good picture. But +there would be much cause for gratulation, if Robson were spared, ere +his powers definitively decline, to visit the United States. The +American people ought to see Robson. They have had our tragedians, good, +bad, and indifferent. They have filled the pockets of William Macready +and of Charles Kean with dollars. They have heard our men-singers and +our women-singers,--the birds that can sing, and the birds that can't +sing, but _will_ sing. The most notable of our drolls, Buckstone and +Keeley, have been here, and have received a cordial welcome. But Robson +has hitherto been lacking on this side the Atlantic. That he would be +thoroughly appreciated by the theatrical public of America I cannot for +one instant doubt. It is given to England to produce eccentrics, but for +other nations to understand them better than the English do. The Germans +are better critics of the satire of Hogarth, the French of the humor of +Sterne, and the Americans of the philosophy of Shakspeare, than we to +whose country those illustrious belong. In Boston, in New York, in +Philadelphia, crowded and enthusiastic audiences would, I venture to +foretell, hang on the utterances of Robson, and expound to their own +entire satisfaction his most eloquent by-play, his subtlest gestures. It +would be idle, in the endeavor to give him something like a palpable +aspect to people who have never seen him, to compare him with other +great actors yet extant, or who have gone before. In his bursts of +passion, in his vehement soliloquies, in the soul-harrowing force of his +simulated invective, he is said to resemble Edmund Kean; but how are you +to judge of an actor who in his comic moments certainly approaches the +image we have formed to ourselves of Munden and Dowton, of Bannister and +Suett? To say that he is a Genius, and the Prince of Eccentrics, is +perhaps the only way to cut the Gordian knot of criticism in his +instance. + +Let me add, in conclusion, that Robson, off the stage, is one of the +mildest, modestest, most unassuming of men. Painfully nervous he always +was. I remember, a dozen years since, and when I was personally +unacquainted with him, writing in some London newspaper a eulogistic +criticism on one of his performances. I learned from friends that he had +read the article, and had expressed himself as deeply grateful to me for +it. I just knew him by sight; but for months afterwards, if I met him in +the street, he used to blush crimson, and made as sudden a retreat round +the nearest corner as was possible. He said afterwards that he hadn't +the courage to thank me. I brought him to bay at last, and came to know +him very well; and then I discovered how the nervousness, the +bashfulness, the _mauvaise honte_, which made him so shy and retiring in +private, stood him in wonderful stead on the stage. The nervous man +became the fretful and capricious tyrant of mock tragedy; the bashful +man warmed at the foot-lights with passion and power. The manner which +in society was a drawback and a defect became in the pursuit of his art +a charm and an excellence. What new parts may be created for Robson, and +how he will acquit himself in them, I cannot presume to prophesy; but it +is certain that he has already done enough to win for himself in the +temple of dramatic fame a niche all the more to be envied, as its form +and pattern must be, like its occupant, unprecedented and original. + + + + +THE PARALLEL ROADS OF GLEN ROY, IN SCOTLAND. + + +There are phenomena in Nature which give the clue to so many of its +mysteries that their correct interpretation leads at once to the +broadest generalizations and to the rapid advance of science in new +directions. The explanation of one very local and limited problem may +clear up many collateral ones, since its solution includes the answer to +a whole set of kindred inquiries. The "parallel roads" of Glen Roy offer +such a problem. For half a century they have been the subject of patient +investigation and the boldest speculation. To them natural philosophers +have returned again and again to test their theories, and until they are +fully understood no steady or permanent advance can be made in the +various views which they have suggested to different observers. The +theory of the formation of lakes by barriers, presented by McCulloch and +Sir T. Lauder-Dick, that of continental upheavals and subsidences, +advocated by Sir Charles Lyell and Charles Darwin, that of inundations +by great floods, maintained by Professor H. D. Rogers and Sir George +Mackenzie, that of glacial action, brought forward by myself, have been +duly discussed with reference to this difficult case; all have found +their advocates, all have met with warm opposition, and the matter still +remains a mooted point; but the one of all these theories which shall +stand the test of time and repeated examination and be eventually +accepted will explain many a problem besides the one it was meant to +solve, and lead to farther progress in other directions. + +I propose here to reconsider the facts of the case, and to present anew +my own explanation of them, now more than twenty years old, but which I +have never had an opportunity of publishing in detail under a popular +form, though it appeared in the scientific journals of the day. + +Before considering, however, the phenomena of Glen Roy, or the special +glacial areas scattered over Scotland and the other British Isles, let +us see what general evidence we have that glaciers ever existed at all +in that realm. The reader will pardon me, if, at the risk of repetition, +I sum up here the indications which, from our knowledge of glaciers as +they at present exist, must be admitted, wherever they are found, as +proof of their former existence. Such a summary may serve also as a +guide to those who would look for glacial traces where they have not +hitherto been sought. + +In the first place, we have to consider the singular abrasion of the +surfaces over which the glacier has moved, quite unlike that produced by +the action of water. We have seen that such surfaces, wherever the +glacier-marks have not been erased by some subsequent action, have +several unfailing characteristics: they are highly polished, and they +are also marked with scratches or fine _striae_, with grooves and deeper +furrows. Where best preserved, the smooth surfaces are shining; they +have a lustre like stone or marble artificially polished by the combined +friction and pressure of some harder material than itself until all its +inequalities have been completely levelled and its surface has become +glossy. Any marble mantel-piece may serve as an example of this kind of +glacier-worn surface. + +The levelling and abrading action of water on rock has an entirely +different character. Tides or currents driven powerfully and constantly +against a rocky shore, and bringing with them hard materials, may +produce blunt, smooth surfaces, such as the repeated blows of a hammer +on stone would cause; but they never bring it to a high polish, because, +the grinding materials not being held steadily down, in firm, permanent +contact with the rocky surfaces against which they move, as is the case +with the glacier, but, on the contrary, dashed to and fro, they strike +and rebound, making a succession of blows, but never a continuous, +uninterrupted pressure and friction. The same is true of all the marks +made on rocky shores against which loose materials are driven by +water-currents. They are separate, disconnected, fragmentary; whereas +the lines drawn by the hard materials set in the glacier, whether light +and fine or strong and deep, are continuous, often unbroken for long +distances, and rectilinear. Indeed, we have seen[A] that we have beneath +every glacier a complete apparatus adapted to all the results described +above. In the softer fragments ground to the finest powder under the +incumbent mass we have a polishing paste; in the hard materials set in +that paste, whether pebbles, or angular rocky fragments of different +sizes, or grains of sand, we have the various graving instruments by +which the finer or coarser lines are drawn. Not only are these lines +frequently uninterrupted for a distance of many yards, but they are also +parallel, except when some change takes place in the thickness of the +ice, which may slightly modify the trend of the mass, or where lines in +a variety of directions are produced by the intermittent action of +separate glaciers running successively at different angles over the same +surfaces. The deeper grooves sometimes present a succession of short +staccato touches, just as when one presses the finger vertically along +some surface where the resistance is sufficient to interrupt the action +without actually stopping it,--a kind of grating motion, showing how +firmly the instrument which produced it must have been held in the +moving mass. No currents or sudden freshets carrying hard materials with +them, even moving along straight paths down hill-sides or +mountain-slopes, have ever been known to draw any such lines. They could +be made only by some instrument held fast as in a vice by the moving +power. Something of the kind is occasionally produced by the drag of a +wheel grating over rocks covered with loose materials. + +It has been said that grounded ice or icebergs floating along a rocky +shore might produce similar marks; but they will chiefly be at the level +of high-water mark, and, if grounded, they will trend in various +directions, owing to the rocking or rotating movement of the iceberg. It +has also been urged, that, without admitting any general glacier-period, +icebergs and floating ice from more northern latitudes might account for +the extensive transportation of the loose materials scattered in a +continuous sheet over a large portion of the globe. There can be no +doubt that an immense amount of _debris_ of all sorts is carried to +great distances by floating ice; where their presence is due to this +cause, however, they are everywhere stranded along the shore or dropped +to the sea-bottom. Large boulders are frequently left by the ice along +the New-England coast, and we shall trace them hereafter among the +sand-dunes of Cape Cod. But before it can be admitted that the +drift-phenomena, and the polished and engraved surfaces with which they +are everywhere intimately associated, are owing to floating ice or +icebergs, it must be shown that all these appearances have been produced +by some agency moving from the sea-board towards the land, and extending +up to the very summits of the mountains, or else that all the countries +exhibiting glacial phenomena have been sunk below the ocean to the +greatest height at which glacier-marks are found, and have since +gradually emerged to their present level. Now, though geologists are +lavish of immersions when something is to be accounted for which they +cannot otherwise explain, and a fresh baptism of old Mother Earth is +made to wash away many obstacles to scientific theories, yet the common +sense of the world will hardly admit the latter assumption without +positive proof, and all the evidence of the kind we have, at the period +under consideration, indicates only a comparatively slight change of +relative level between sea and land within a narrow belt along the +shores; and even this is shown to be posterior, not anterior, to the +glacial phenomena. As to the supposition that the motion proceeded from +the sea towards the land, all the facts are against it, since the whole +trend of these phenomena is from inland centres toward the shore, +instead of being from the coast upward. + +Certainly, no one familiar with the facts could suppose that floating +ice or icebergs had abraded, polished, and furrowed the bottom of narrow +valleys as we find them worn, polished, and grooved by glaciers. And it +must be remembered that this is a theory founded not upon hypothesis, +but upon the closest comparison. I have not become acquainted with these +marks in regions where glaciers no longer exist, and made a theory to +explain their presence. I have, on the contrary, studied them where they +are in process of formation. I have seen the glacier engrave its lines, +plough its grooves and furrows in the solid rock, and polish the +surfaces over which it moved, and was familiar with all this when I +found afterwards appearances corresponding exactly to those which I had +investigated in the home of the present glaciers. I could therefore say, +and I think with some reason, that "this also is the work of the glacier +acting in ancient times as it now acts in Switzerland." + +There is another character of glacial action distinguishing it from any +abrasions caused by water, even if freighted with a large amount of +loose materials. On any surface over which water flows we shall find +that the softer materials have yielded first and most completely. Hard +dikes will be left standing out, while softer rocks around them are worn +away,--furrows will be eaten into more deeply,--fissures will be +widened,--clay-slates will be wasted,--while hard sandstone or limestone +and granite will show greater resistance. Not so with surfaces over +which the levelling plough of the glacier has passed. Wherever softer +and harder rocks alternate, they are brought to one outline; where dikes +intersect softer rock, they are cut to one level with it; where rents or +fissures traverse the rock, they do not seem to have been widened or +scooped out more deeply, but their edges are simply abraded on one line +with the adjoining surfaces. Whatever be the inequality in the hardness +of the materials of which the rock consists, even in the case of +pudding-stone, the surface is abraded so evenly as to leave the +impression that a rigid rasp has moved over all the undulations of the +land, advancing in one and the same direction and levelling all before +it. + +Among the inequalities of the glacier-worn surfaces which deserve +especial notice, are the so-called "_roches moutonnees_." They are +knolls of a peculiar appearance, frequent in the Alps, and first noticed +by the illustrious De Saussure, who designated them by that name, +because, where they are numerous and seen from a distance, they resemble +the rounded backs of a flock of sheep resting on the ground. These +knolls are the result of the prolonged abrasion of masses of rocks +separated by deep indentations wide enough to be filled up by large +glaciers, overtopping the summits of the intervening prominences, and +passing over them like a river, or like tide-currents flowing over a +submerged ledge of rock. It is evident that water rushing over such +sunken hills or ledges, adapting itself readily to all the inequalities +over which it flows, and forming eddies against the obstacles in its +course, will scoop out tortuous furrows upon the bottom, and hollow out +rounded cavities against the walls, acting especially along preexisting +fissures and upon the softer parts of the rock,--while the glacier, +moving as a solid mass, and carrying on its under side its gigantic file +set in a fine paste, will in course of time abrade uniformly the angles +against which it strikes, equalize the depressions between the prominent +masses, and round them off until they present those smooth bulging +knolls known as the "_roches moutonnees_" in the Alps, and so +characteristic everywhere of glacier-action. A comparison of any +tide-worn hummock with such a glacier-worn mound will convince the +observer that its smooth and evenly rounded surface was never produced +by water. + +Besides their peculiar form, the _roches moutonnees_ present all the +characteristic features of glacier-action in their polished surfaces +accompanied with the straight lines, grooves, and furrows above +described. But there are two circumstances connected with these knolls +deserving special notice. They frequently present the glacial marks only +on one side, while the opposite side has all the irregularities and +roughness of a hill-slope not acted upon by ice. It is evident that the +polished side was the one turned towards the advancing glacier, the side +against which the ice pressed in its onward movement,--while it passed +over the other side, the lee side as we may call it, without coming in +immediate contact with it, bridging the depression, and touching bottom +again a little farther on. As an additional evidence of this fact, we +frequently find on the lee side of such knolls accumulations of the +loose materials which the glacier carries with it. It is only, however, +when the knolls are quite high, and abrupt enough to allow any rigid +substance to bridge over the space in its descent from the summit to the +surface below, that we find these conditions; when the knolls are low +and slope gently downward in every direction, they present the +characteristic glacier-surfaces equally on all sides. This circumstance +should be borne in mind by all who investigate the traces of +glacier-action; for this inequality in the surfaces presented by the +opposite sides of any obstacle in the path of the ice is often an +important means of determining the direction of its motion. + +The other characteristic peculiarity of these _roches moutonnees_ +consists in the direction of the glacier-scratches, which ascend the +slope to its summit in a direct line on one side, while they deviate to +the right and left on the other sides of the knoll, more or less +obliquely according to its steepness. Occasionally, large boulders may +be found perched on the very summit of such prominences. Their position +is inexplicable by the supposition of currents as the cause of their +transportation. Any current strong enough to carry a boulder to such a +height would of course sweep it on with it. This phenomenon finds, +however, an easy explanation in the glacial theory. The thickness of +such a sheet of ice is of course less above such a hill or mound than +over the lower levels adjoining it. Not only will the ice melt, +therefore, more readily at this spot, but, as ice is transparent to +heat, the summit of the prominence will become warmed by the rays of the +sun, and will itself facilitate the melting of the ice above it. On the +breaking up of the ice, therefore, such a spot will be the first to +yield, and allow the boulders carried on the back of the glacier to fall +into the hollow thus formed, where they will rest upon the projecting +rock left uncovered. This is no theoretical explanation; there are such +cases in Switzerland, where holes in the ice are formed immediately +above the summit of hills or prominences over which the glacier passes, +and into which it drops its burdens. Of course, where the ice is +constantly renewed over such a spot by the onward progress of the +glacier, these materials may be carried off again; but if we suppose +such a case to occur at the breaking up of the glacier-period, when the +ice was disappearing forever from such a spot, it is easy to account for +the poising of these large boulders on prominent peaks or ledges. + +The appearances about the _roches moutonnees_, especially the straight +scratches and grooves on the side up which the ice ascended, have led to +a mistaken view of the mode in which large boulders are transported by +ice. It has been supposed, by those who, while they accepted the glacial +theory, were not wholly conversant with the mode of action of glaciers, +that, in passing through the bottom of a valley, for instance, the +glacier would take up large boulders, and, carrying them along with it, +would push them up such a slope and deposit them on its summit. It is +true that large boulders may sometimes be found in front of glaciers +among the materials of their terminal moraines, and may, upon any +advance of the glacier, be pushed forward by it. But I know of no +example of erratic boulders being carried to considerable distances and +raised from lower to higher levels by this means. All the angular +boulders perched upon prominent rocks must have fallen upon the surface +of the glacier in the upper part of its course, where rocky ledges rise +above its surface and send down their broken fragments. The surface of +any boulder carried under the ice, or pushed along for any distance at +its terminus, would show the friction and pressure to which it had been +subjected. In this connection it should be remembered that in the case +of large glaciers low hills form no obstacle to their onward progress, +especially when the glacier is thick enough to cover them completely, +and even to rise far above them. The _roches moutonnees_ about the +Grimsel show that hills many hundred feet high have been passed over by +the great glacier of the Aar, when it descended as far as Meyringen, +without having seemingly influenced its onward progress. + +But in enumerating the evidences of glacier-action, we have to remember +not only the effects produced upon the surface of the ground by the ice +itself, but also the deposits it has left behind it. The loose materials +scattered over the face of the earth may point as distinctly to the +source of their distribution as does the character of the rocky surfaces +on which they rest indicate the different causes of abrasion. In +characteristic localities the loose materials deposited by glaciers may +readily be recognized at first sight, and distinguished from water-worn +pebbles; nor is it difficult to distinguish both from loose materials +resulting from the decomposition of rocks on the spot,--the latter +always agreeing with the rocks on which they rest, while the +decomposition to which they owe their separation from the solid rock is +often still going on. Such _debris_ are found everywhere about +disintegrating rocks, and they constantly mingle with the loose +fragments brought from a distance by various agencies. They are found +upon and among the glacier-worn pebbles, especially where the latter +have themselves been disturbed since their accumulation. They are also +found among water-worn pebbles, wherever the rocky beds of our rivers or +the rocky bluffs of our sea-shores crumble down. In investigating the +character of loose materials transported from greater or less distances, +either by the agency of glaciers or by water-currents, it is important +at the very outset to discriminate between these deposits of older date +and the local accessions mingling with them. + +Occasionally we may have also to distinguish between all these deposits +and the _debris_ brought down by land-slides, or by sudden freshets +transporting to a distance a vast amount of loose materials which are +neither ice-worn nor water-worn. At Rossberg, for instance, in the +Canton of Schwitz, the land-slide which buried the village of Goldau +under a terrific avalanche, and filled a part of the Lake of Lauertz, +spread an immense number of huge boulders across the valley, some of +which even rolled up the opposite side to a considerable height. Many of +these boulders might easily be mistaken for erratic boulders, were not +the aggregate of these loose materials traceable to the hills from which +they descended. In this case water had no part in loosening or bringing +down this mass of fragments. They simply rolled from the declivity, and +stopped when they had exhausted the momentum imparted to them by their +weight. In the case of the _debacle_ of Bagnes, above Martigny, in a +valley leading to the St. Bernard, the circumstances were very +different. A glacier, advancing beyond its usual limits and rising +against the opposite mountain-slope, dammed up the waters of the torrent +and caused a lake to be formed. The obstruction gave way in the course +of time, and the waters of the lake rushed out, carrying along with +them huge boulders and a mass of loose materials of all sorts, and +scattering them over the plain below. Such an accumulation of _debris_ +differs from the pebbles and loose fragments found in river-beds. The +comparatively short distance over which they are carried, and the +suddenness of the transportation, allow no time for the abrasion which +produces the smooth surfaces of water-worn pebbles or the polished and +scratched surfaces of glacier-worn ones. In the latter case, we have +seen that the pebbles, being so set in the ice as to expose only one +side, may be only partially polished, while others, more loosely held +and turning in their sockets, may receive the same high polish on every +side. In such a case the lines will intersect one another, in +consequence of the different position in which the stone has been held +at different times. No such appearances exist in the water-worn pebbles: +their blunt surfaces, smoothed and rounded uniformly by the action of +the water in which they have been rolled or tossed about, present +everywhere the same aspect. + +The correlation between these different loose materials and the position +in which they are found helps us also to detect their origin. The loose +materials bearing glacier-marks are always found resting upon surfaces +which have been worn, abraded, and engraved in the same manner, while +the water-worn pebbles are everywhere found resting upon rocks the +abrasion of which may be traced to water. It is true that in some +localities, as, for instance, in the gravel-pit of Mount Auburn, near +Cambridge, large masses of glacier-worn pebbles alternate with +beach-shingle; but it is easy to show that there was here a glacier +advancing into the sea, crowding its front moraine and the materials +carried under it over and into the shingle washed up by the waves upon +the beach. Not infrequently, also, river-pebbles may be found among +glacial materials. This is especially the case where, after the +disappearance of large glaciers, rivers have occupied their beds. +Examples of this kind may be seen in all the valleys of the Alps. + +But, besides the special character of the individual fragments, the true +origin of any accumulation of glacier-_debris_, commonly called drift, +may be detected by the total absence of stratification, so essential a +feature in all water-deposits. This absence of stratification throughout +its mass is, after all, the great and important characteristic of the +drift; and though I have alluded to it before, I reiterate it here, as +that which distinguishes it from all like accumulations under water. I +may be pardoned for dwelling upon this point, because the great +controversy among geologists respecting the nature and origin of the +sheet of loose materials scattered over a great part of the globe turns +upon it. The _debris_ of which the drift consists are thrown together +pell-mell, without any arrangement according to size or weight, larger +and smaller fragments being mixed so indiscriminately that the heaviest +materials may be on the very summit of the mass, and the lightest at the +bottom in immediate contact with the underlying rock, or the larger +pieces may stand at any level in the mass of finer ones. Impalpable +powder, coarse sand, rounded, polished, and scratched fragments of every +size are mixed together in a homogeneous paste, in which the larger +materials are imbedded, to use a homely, but expressive comparison, like +raisins and currants in a pudding. The adhesive paste holding all these +fragments together is, no doubt, the result of the friction to which the +whole was subjected under the glacier, and which has worked some of the +softer materials into a kind of cement. + +The mode of aggregation of water-worn materials is very different. +Examine the shingle along our beaches: we find it so distributed as to +show that the fading tide-wave has carried the lighter materials farther +than the heavier ones, and the successive deposits exhibit an imperfect +cross-stratification resulting from changes in the height of the tide +and the direction of the wind. Moreover, in any materials collected +under water we find the heavier ones at the bottom, the lighter on the +top. It is true that large angular boulders may occasionally be found +resting upon beach-shingle, but their presence in such a connection is +easily explained. They may have been dropped there by floating icebergs, +or have fallen from crumbling drift-cliffs. + +I should add, in speaking of drift-materials, that, while we find the +large angular boulders resting above them, we occasionally find boulders +of unusual size mingled with them; but, when this is the case, such +massive fragments are more or less rounded, polished, and marked in the +same way as the smaller pebbles, or as the surfaces over which the +glacier has passed. This is important to remember, because, when we +examine the drift in countries where the ice, during the glacier-period, +overtopped nearly all the mountains, so that few fragments could fall +from them upon its surface, we find scarcely any angular boulders, while +the drift is interspersed with larger fragments of this character, +carried under the ice, instead of on its back. Another distinction +between water-worn deposits and drift consists in the fact that the +former are washed clean, while the latter always retains the mud +gathered during its journey and spread throughout its mass. + +In summing up the glacial evidences, I must not omit the moraines, +though I have described them so fully in a previous article that I need +not do more than allude to them here; but any argument for the glacial +theory which did not include these characteristic walls erected by +glaciers would be most imperfect. We need hardly discuss the theory of +currents with reference to the formation of terminal moraines, extending +across the valleys from side to side. Any current powerful enough to +bring the boulders and _debris_ of all sorts of which these walls are +composed to the places where they are found would certainly not build +them up with such regularity, but would sweep them away or scatter them +along the bottom of the valley. That this is actually the case is seen +in the lower course of the valley of the Rhone, where there are no +transverse moraines, while they are frequent and undisturbed in the +upper part of the valley. This is no doubt owing to the fact, that, when +the main glacier had already retreated considerably up the valley, the +lateral glaciers from the chains of the Combin and the Diablerets still +reached the valley of the Rhone at a lower point, and barred the outlet +of the waters from the glaciers above. A lake was thus formed, which, +when the lower glaciers retreated up the lateral valleys, swept away all +the lower transverse moraines, and formed the flat bottom of Martigny. +In this case, the moraines were totally obliterated; but there are many +other instances in which the materials have been only broken up and +scattered over a wider surface by currents. In such remodelled moraines, +the glacier-mud has, of course, been more or less washed away. We have +here a blending of the action of water with that of the glacier; and, +indeed, how could it be otherwise, when the colossal glaciers of past +ages gradually disappeared or retreated to the mountain-heights? The +wasting ice must have occasioned immense freshets, the action of which +we shall trace hereafter, when examining the formation of our +drift-ponds, of our river-beds and estuaries, as well as the +river-terraces standing far above the present water-level. + +And now, if it be asked how much of this evidence for the former +existence of glaciers is to be found in Great Britain, I answer, that +there is not a valley in Switzerland where all these traces are found in +greater perfection than in the valleys of the Scotch Highlands, or of +the mountains of Ireland and Wales, or of the lake-region in England. +Not a link is wanting to the chain. Polished surfaces, traversed by +striae, grooves, and furrows, with a sheet of drift resting immediately +upon them, extend throughout the realm,--the _roches moutonnees_ +raise their rounded backs from the ground there as in +Switzerland,--transverse moraines bar their valleys and lateral ones +border them, and the boulders from the hill-sides are scattered over the +plains as thickly as between the Alps and the Jura, and are here and +there perched upon the summits of isolated hills. This being the case, +let us examine a little more closely the local phenomena connected with +the ancient extension of glaciers in this region, and especially the +parallel roads of Glen Roy. + +[Illustration: + + G. R. Glen Roy. + M. Moeldhu Hill. + S. Spean River. + G. S. Glen Spean. + L. Loch Laggan. + T. Loch Treig. + G. Glen Gloy. + L. O. Loch Lochy. + A. Loch Arkeig. + E. Loch Eil. + N. Ben Nevis. + 1,2,3. The three parallel roads.] + +Among the Grampian Hills, a little to the northeast of Ben Nevis, lies +the valley of Glen Roy, a winding valley trending in a northeasterly +direction, and some ten miles in length. Across the mouth of this +valley, at right angles with it, runs the valley of Glen Spean, trending +from east to west, Glen Roy thus opening directly at its southern +extremity into Glen Spean. Around the walls of the Glen Roy valley run +three terraces, one above the other, at different heights, like so many +roads artificially cut in the sides of the valley, and indeed they go by +the name of the "parallel roads." These three terraces, though in a less +perfect state of preservation, are repeated for a short distance at +exactly the same levels on the southern wall of the valley of Glen +Spean, just opposite the opening of the Glen Roy valley; that is, they +make the whole circuit of Glen Roy, stop abruptly, on both sides, at its +southern extremity, and reappear again on the opposite wall of Glen +Spean. I should add, however, that all three do not come to this sudden +termination; for the lowest of these terraces turns eastward into the +valley of Glen Spean, following the whole curve of the eastern half of +the valley, while, of the two upper terraces, there is no trace +whatever, nor is there any indication that either of the three ever +existed in the western half of the valley. When I first visited the +region, these phenomena had already been the subject of earnest +discussion among English geologists. The commonly accepted explanation +of the facts was that these terraces marked ancient sea-levels at a time +when the ocean penetrated much farther into the interior, and Glen Roy +and the adjoining valleys were as many fiords or estuaries. And though +the present elevation of the locality made such an interpretation +improbable at first sight, the first or highest of the terraces being +eleven hundred and forty-four feet above the present sea-level, the +second eighty-two feet below the first, and the third and lowest two +hundred and twelve feet below the second, or eight hundred odd feet +above the level of the sea, it was thought that the oscillations of the +land, its alternate subsidences and upheavals, proved by the modern +results of geology to have been so great and so frequent, might account +even for so remarkable a change. There are, however, other objections to +this theory not so easily explained away. There are no traces of organic +life upon these terraces. If they were ancient sea-beaches, we should +expect to find upon them the remains of marine animals, shells, +crustacea, and the like. All the explanations given to lessen the +significance of this absence of organic remains are futile. Again, why +should the lower terrace alone be continued into the eastern end of the +valley of Glen Spean, while there are no terraces at all in its western +part, since both must have been as fully open to the sea as Glen Roy +valley itself? This seemed the more inexplicable since all the terraces +exist on the valley-wall opposite the outlet of Glen Roy, showing that +this sheet of water, wherever it came from, filled the valley itself and +the space between it and the southern wall of Glen Spean, but failed to +spread, on either side of that space, into the eastern and western +extension of Glen Spean. It is evident, that, at the time the water +filled Glen Roy, some obstruction blocked the valley of Glen Spean, both +to the east and west, leaving, however, that space in the centre free +into which Glen Roy opens, while, by the time the water had sunk to the +level of the lowest terrace, one of these barriers, that to the east, +must have been removed, for the lowest terrace, as I have said, is +continuous throughout the eastern part of Glen Spean.[B] + +Prepossessed as I was with the idea of glacial agency in times anterior +to ours, these phenomena appeared to me under a new aspect. I found the +bottom of Glen Spean so worn by glacial action as to leave no doubt in +my mind that it must have been the bed of a great glacier, and Dr. +Buckland fully concurred with me in this impression. Indeed, the face of +the country throughout that region presents not only the glacier-marks +in great perfection, but other evidences of the ancient presence of +glaciers. There are moraines at the lower end of Glen Spean, remodelled, +it is true, by the action of currents, but still retaining enough of +their ancient character to be easily recognized; and some of the finest +examples of the _roches moutonnees_ I have seen in Scotland are to be +found at the entrance of the valley of Loch Treig, a lateral valley +opening into Glen Spean on its southern side, and, as we shall see +hereafter, intimately connected with the history of the parallel roads +of Glen Roy. These _roches moutonnees_ may very fairly be compared with +those of the Grimsel, and exhibit all the characteristic features of the +Alpine ones. One of them, lying on the western side of the valley where +it opens into Glen Spean, is crossed by a trap-dike. The general surface +of the hill, consisting of rather soft mica, has been slightly worn down +by atmospheric agencies, so that the dike stands out some three-quarters +of an inch above it. On the dike, however, the glacier-marks extend for +its whole length in great perfection, while they have entirely +disappeared from the surrounding surfaces, so as to leave the dike thus +standing out in full relief. This is an instructive case, showing how +little disintegration has gone on since the drift-period. All the +currents that have swept over it, all the rains that have beaten upon +it, have not worn away one inch from the original surface of the hill. I +have observed many other _roches moutonnees_ in Scotland, especially +about the neighborhood of Loch Awe, Loch Fyne, and Loch Etive. In fact, +they may be found in almost all the glens of Scotland, in the +lake-region of England, and in the valleys of Wales and Ireland. + +Following the glacial indications wherever we could find them in the +country about Glen Roy, it became evident to me that the whole western +range of the Grampian Hills had once been a great centre of glaciers, +that they had come down toward Glen Spean through all the valleys on the +mountain-slopes to the north and south of it, so that this valley had +become, as it were, the great drainage-bed for the masses of ice thus +poured into it laterally, and moving down the valley from east to west +as one immense glacier. It is natural to suppose, that, at the +breaking-up of the great sheet of ice which, if my view of the case is +correct, must have covered the whole country at this time, the ice would +yield more readily in a valley like that of Glen Roy, lying open to the +south and receiving the full force of the sun, than in those on the +opposite side of Glen Spean, opening to the north. At all events, it is +evident that at some time posterior to this universal glacial period, +when the ice began to retreat, Glen Roy became the basin of a glacial +lake such as we now find in the Alps of Switzerland, where occasionally +a closed valley becomes a trough, as it were, into which the water from +the surrounding hills is drained. In such a lake no animals are found, +such as exist in any other sheet of fresh water, and this would account +for the absence of any organic remains on the terraces of Glen Roy. But +at first sight it seemed that this theory was open in one respect to the +same objection as the other. What prevented this sheet of water from +spreading east and west in Glen Spean? If it not only filled Glen Roy, +but extended to the southern side of Glen Spean immediately opposite +the opening of Glen Roy, what prevented it from filling the whole of +that valley also? In endeavoring to answer this question, I found the +solution of the mystery. + +The bed of Glen Spean, through its whole extent from east to west, is +marked, as I have said, by glacial action, in rectilinear scratches and +furrows. This westward track of the main glacier is crossed transversely +near the centre of the valley by two other glacier-tracks cutting it at +right angles. Upon tracing these cross-tracks carefully, I became +satisfied, that, after the surrounding ice had begun to yield, after the +masses of ice which descended from the northern and southern slopes of +the mountains into Glen Spean had begun to retreat, and to form local +limited glaciers, two of those lateral glaciers, one coming down from +Ben Nevis on the southwest, the other from Loch Treig on the southeast, +extended farther than the others and stretched across Glen Spean.[C] +These two glaciers for a long time formed barriers across the western +and eastern extension of this valley, damming back the waters which +filled Glen Roy and the central part of Glen Spean. + +Evidently the glacier descending from Loch Treig was the first to yield, +for, by the time the Glen Roy lake had sunk to the level of the lowest +terrace, the entrance to the eastern extension of the valley must have +been free, otherwise the water could not have spread throughout that +basin as we find it did; but it would seem that by the time the western +barrier, or the glacier from Ben Nevis, was removed, the sheet of water +was too far reduced to have left permanent marks of its outflow into the +Great Glen, except by disturbing and remodelling the large moraines of +the older Glen Spean glacier. There are faint indications of other +terraces in Glen Roy, even at a higher level than the uppermost parallel +road, owing their origin probably to the short duration of a higher +level of the glacier-lake, when the great general glacier had not yet +been lowered to a more permanent level determined by a limited +circumscription within the walls of the valleys. There are other +terraces in neighboring valleys at still different levels,--in Glen +Gloy, for instance, where the one horizontal road was no doubt formed in +consequence of the damming of the valley by a glacier from Loch Arkeig. +Mr. Darwin has seen another in Glen Kinfillen, which I would explain by +the presence of a glacier in the Great Glen, the marks of which are +particularly distinct about the eastern end of Glen Garry. + +The evidence of the ancient presence of glaciers is no less striking in +other parts of the Scotch Highlands. Between the southeastern range of +the Grampian Hills, in Forfarshire and Perthshire, and the opposite +ridge of Sidlaw Hills, stretches the broad valley of Strathmore. At the +time when Glen Spean received the masses of ice from the slopes of the +western Grampian range, the glaciers descended from the valleys on the +southern slope of the southeastern range and from those on the northern +slope of Sidlaw Hills into the capacious bed of the valley which divides +them. The glacial phenomena of this region present a striking +resemblance in their general relations to those of the Alps and the +Jura. The Grampian range on the northern side of Strathmore valley +occupies the same position in reference to that of the Sidlaw Hills +opposite, as does the range of the Alps to that of the Jura, while the +intervening valley may be compared to the plain of Switzerland. As from +the Bernese Oberland and from the valleys of the Reuss and Limmath +gigantic glaciers came down and stretched across the plain of +Switzerland to the Jura, scattering their erratic boulders over its +summit and upon its slopes at the time of their greater extension, and, +as they withdrew into the higher Alpine valleys, leaving them along +their retreating track at the foot of the Jura and over the whole plain, +so did the glaciers from Glen Prossen and parallel valleys on the +Grampian Mountains extend across the valley of Strathmore, dropping +their boulders not only on the slopes and along the base of the Sidlaw +Hills, but scattering them in their retreat throughout the valley, until +they were themselves reduced to isolated glaciers in the higher valleys. +At the same time other glaciers came down from the heights of +Schihallion on the west, and, descending through the valley of the Tay, +joined the great masses of ice in the valley of Strathmore, thus +combining with the eastern ice-field, just as the glacier from Mont +Blanc and the valley of the Rhone formerly combined in the western part +of Switzerland with those of the Bernese Oberland. The relations are +identical, though the geographical position is reversed,--the higher +range, or the Grampian Hills, lying to the north in Scotland, and the +lower one, or the Sidlaw Hills, to the south, while in Switzerland, on +the contrary, the higher range lies to the south and the lower to the +north. I have alluded especially to Glen Prossen because the glacial +marks in that valley are remarkably distinct, the whole bed of the +valley being scratched, polished, and furrowed by the great rasp which +has moved over it, while the concentric moraines at its lower extremity +are very striking. But these signs, so perfectly preserved in Glen +Prossen, recur with greater or less intensity in all the corresponding +valleys, leaving no doubt that the same phenomena existed over the whole +region. + +Among the localities of Scotland where the indications of glacial action +are most marked is the region about Stirling. Near Stirling Castle the +polished surfaces of the rocks with their distinct grooves and scratches +show us the path followed by the ice as it moved down in a northeasterly +direction toward the Frith of Forth from the mountains on the northwest. +To the west of Edinburgh, also, there is a broad glacier-track, showing +that here also the ice was ploughing its way eastward to find an outlet +on the shore. + +The western slope of the great Scotch range is no less remarkable for +its glacier-traces. The heads of Loch Long, Loch Fyne, Loch Awe, and +Loch Leven everywhere show upon their margins the most distinct glacial +polish and furrows, while from the trend of these marks and the +distribution of the moraines, especially about Ben Cruachan, it is +obvious that in this part of the country the glaciers moved westward and +southward. About Aberdeen, on the contrary, they moved eastward, while +in the vicinity of Elgin they advanced toward the north. + +It thus appears that the whole range of the Grampians formed a great +centre for the distribution of glaciers, and that a colossal ice-field +spread itself over the whole country, extending in every direction +toward the lower lands and the sea-shore. As the glaciers which now +descend through all the valleys of the Alps, along their northern as +well as their southern slopes, and in their eastern as well as their +western prolongation, though limited, in our days, within the +valley-walls, nevertheless once covered the plain of Switzerland and +that of Northern Italy, so did the ice-fields of the Grampians during +the greatest extension of the Scotch glaciers spread over the whole +country. They also were, in course of time, reduced to local glaciers, +circumscribed within the higher valleys of the more mountainous parts of +the country, until they totally disappeared, as those of Switzerland +would also have done, had it not been for the greater elevation of that +country above the level of the sea. Scotland nowhere rises above the +present level of perpetual snow, while in Switzerland the whole Alpine +range has an altitude favorable to the preservation of glaciers. In the +range of the Jura, however, which had at one time its local glaciers +also, but which nowhere now rises above the line of perpetual snow, they +have disappeared as completely as in the Grampian Hills. + +It would lead me too far, were I to give here a special account of all +the investigations I made in 1840 upon the distribution of glaciers in +Great Britain. I will therefore only point out a few of the more +distinct areas of distribution. The region surrounding Ben Wyvis formed +such a centre of dispersion from which glaciers radiated, and we have +another in the Pentland Hills about Edinburgh. In Northumberland, the +Cheviot Hills present a glacial centre of the same kind, and in the +Westmoreland Hills we have still another. In the last-named locality, +the glacial tracks can be followed in various directions, some of them +descending toward the northwest from the heights of Helvellyn, others +moving southward toward Ambleside. In Wales the same kind of glacial +distribution has been observed; but, as Professor Ramsay has treated +this subject in full, I would refer my readers to his masterly work for +a further account of the ancient Welch glaciers. In Ireland I had also +opportunities of making extensive local investigations of glacial +action. I observed the centres of distribution in the neighborhood of +Belfast, in the County of Wicklow, and in Cavan. + +But nowhere are these phenomena more striking than in Fermanagh County +about the neighborhood of Enniskillen, and more especially in the +immediate vicinity of Florence Court, the seat of the Earl of +Enniskillen. On the northern slope of Ben Calcagh are five valleys lying +parallel with each other and opening into the valley of Loch Nilly, +which runs from east to west at the base of the mountain. A road now +passes through this valley, and, where it crosses the mouth of either of +the five valleys rising towards the mountain-slope, it cuts alternately +through the two horns of a crescent-shaped wall which bars the lower end +of every one of them. These crescent-shaped mounds are so many terminal +moraines, built up by the five glaciers formerly descending through +these lateral valleys into the valley of Loch Nilly. They bore the same +relation to each other as the glaciers de Tour and d'Argentiere, the +Glacier des Bois with the Mer de Glace, the Glacier des Bossons and the +Glacier de Taconet, now bear to each other in the valley of Chamouni; +and were it not for the smaller dimensions of the whole, any one +familiar with the tracks of ancient glaciers might easily fancy himself +crossing the ancient moraines at the foot of the northern slope of the +range of Mont Blanc, through which the Arve has cut its channel, the +valley of Chamouni standing in the same relation to Mont Blanc as the +valley of Loch Nilly does to Ben Calcagh. + +I have dwelt thus at length on the glaciers of Great Britain because +they have been the subject of my personal investigations. But the Scotch +Highlands and the mountains of Wales and Ireland are but a few of the +many centres of glacial distribution in Europe. From the Scandinavian +Alps glaciers descended also to the shores of the Northern Ocean and the +Baltic Sea. There is not a fiord of the Norway shore that does not bear +upon its sides the tracks of the great masses of ice which once forced +their way through it, and thus found an outlet into the sea, as in +Scotland. Indeed, under the water, as far as it is possible to follow +them through the transparent medium, I have noticed in Great Britain and +in the United States the same traces of glacial action as higher up, so +that these ancient glaciers must have extended not only to the +sea-shore, but into the ocean, as they do now in Greenland. Nor is this +all. Scandinavian boulders, scattered upon English soil and over the +plains of Northern Germany, tell us that not only the Baltic Sea, but +the German Ocean also, was bridged across by ice, on which these masses +of rock were transported. In short, over the whole of Northern Europe, +from the Arctic Ocean to the northern borders of its southern +promontories, we find all the usual indications of glacial action, +showing that a continuous sheet of ice once spread over nearly the whole +continent, while from all the mountain-ranges descended those more +limited glacial tracks terminating frequently in transverse moraines +across the valleys, showing, that, as the general ice-sheet broke up and +contracted into local glaciers, every cluster or chain of hills became a +centre of glacial dispersion, such as the Alps are now, such as the +Jura, the Highlands of Scotland, the mountains of Wales and Ireland, the +Alps of Scandinavia, the Hartz, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and many +others have been in ancient times. + + * * * * * + +In the next article we shall consider the glacial phenomena as they +exist in America. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] See January No., p. 61. + +[B] Having enumerated the characteristic features of the glacial +phenomena in the preceding pages, I throw into this note some +explanation which may render my views of the parallel roads more +intelligible, not to interrupt again the exposition with details. It +would be desirable, however, that the reader should first make himself +thoroughly familiar with the localities concerned, before proceeding any +farther. I would therefore state here, that, in the wood-cut opposite, +G. R. indicates the valley of Glen Roy, with the three parallel roads +marked 1, 2, 3. Glen Spean is designated by G. S., and the river flowing +at its bottom by S. Loch Laggan, out of which the River Spean rises, is +marked L. G. indicates Glen Gloy, a little valley to the northwest of +Glen Roy, with a single terrace. Loch Treig is designated by T., Loch +Lochy by L. O., Loch Arkeig by A., and Moeldhu Hill by M., while E. +indicates Loch Eil. The Great Glen of Scotland, through which the +Caledonian Canal runs, extends in the direction of L. O. and E. The +position of Ben Nevis is designated by N. The dotted area between N. and +M. marks the place occupied by the great glacier of Ben Nevis, when it +extended as far as Moeldhu; while the close continuous lines in front of +Loch Treig indicate the direction of the glacial scratches left across +Glen Spean by the glacier of Loch Treig, when it extended as far as the +eastern termination of the two upper terraces. It ought to be +remembered, in this connection, that the bottom of the valley of the +Spean, as well as that of Glen Roy, is occupied by loose materials, +partly drift, that is, materials acted upon by glaciers, and partly +decomposed fragments of rocks brought down by the torrents, greatly +impeding the observation of the polished surfaces. The river-bed is cut +through this deposit, and here and there through the underlying rock. +Besides the parallel roads, there are also peculiar accumulations of +loose materials in Glen Roy and Glen Spean, more particularly connected +with the lowest terrace, which Mr. Darwin and Professor Jamieson have +shown to be little deltas formed during the existence of the lake of +Glen Roy at the bottom of the gullies intersecting the shelves of the +upper roads. The outlet for the water at the period during which the +second terrace was formed, not known when I visited Glen Roy, has been +discovered by Mr. Milne-Holme, and also observed by Professor Jamieson. +During the formation of the upper terrace, the waters escaped through +the westernmost tributary of the River Spey, in the direction of the +northeast corner of the wood-cut, and during that of the lowest terrace, +at the eastern end of Loch Laggan, also through the valley of the Spey. +The state of preservation of the parallel roads is such as to prove that +no disturbance of any importance can have taken place in the country +since they were formed. Far from believing, therefore, that these +remarkable shelves are ancient sea-beaches, I am prepared to maintain, +that, had the area occupied by them been submerged only for a few days, +under an ocean rising and falling for several feet with every tide, no +vestige would have been left of their former existence. + +[C] The wood-cut on p. 730 is a reproduction of the little map +accompanying a paper of mine upon "The Glacial Theory and its Recent +Progress," printed in the "Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal" for +October, 1842. I might have greatly improved the topography, and +represented more accurately the details of the phenomenon, by availing +myself of the much larger and very minute map recently published by +Professor Thomas F. Jamieson, of Aberdeen; but I thought it advisable to +leave my first sketch as I presented it twenty-two years ago, in order +to show that Sir Charles Lyell is mistaken in ascribing (see "Antiquity +of Man," pp. 260, 261) the discovery of the glacier of Loch Treig to +Professor Jamieson. A comparison of his statements with mine will show +that the solution of the problem offered by him is identical with that +proposed by me, as he himself candidly admits ("Quarterly Journal of the +Geological Society" for August, 1863, p. 239). I have only one fault to +find with his observations, and, as I have never revisited the locality +since, this remark may satisfy him that my examination of its features +was not so hurried as he supposes. Professor Jamieson confounds the +effects of two distinct glaciers moving in different valleys as the +action of one and the same glacier. In my paper, it is true, I made no +allusion to the great glacier of Glen Spean, the existence of which I +had recognized along the river from Loch Laggan nearly to the Caledonian +Canal. I publish my observations upon this great central glacier for the +first time in the present article, having omitted them in my +contributions upon this subject to the scientific periodicals of the day +simply because I thought best not to complicate my exposition of the +facts concerning the parallel roads by considerations foreign to their +origin, convinced as I was, from the manner in which the glacial theory +was then received, that they would not be understood, and still less +admitted. But now that all the geologists of Great Britain seem to have +given their adhesion to it, I may be permitted to state that I already +knew then, what Professor Jamieson has overlooked in his latest paper, +that a separate glacier had occupied the valley of the Spean _prior_ to +the formation of the parallel roads, and that at that time the glacier +of Loch Treig was only a lateral tributary of the same, just as the +glacier of the Thierberg is a tributary of the glacier of the Aar. It +was not until the Glen Spean glacier had retreated to the hills east of +Loch Laggan that the glacier of Loch Treig could form a barrier across +Glen Spean, and thus dam the waters in Glen Roy which produced the +parallel roads. The marks left by the great Glen Spean glacier in the +valley are mistaken by Professor Jamieson for indications, that, in its +greatest extension, the glacier of Loch Treig not only advanced across +Glen Spean, but divided into two branches, one moving westward down Glen +Spean, the other eastward up Glen Spean, as far as Loch Laggan. Any one +sufficiently familiar with existing glaciers to compare their action +with the phenomena referred to above will at once see the impossibility +of such a course for any glacier coming down from Loch Treig. At the +time the Grampians had become a separate centre of glacial action a +great glacier must have moved down, towards the Caledonian Canal, +through Glen Spean, receiving as tributaries lateral glaciers not only +from Loch Treig and Glen Roy, but also from all the other minor lateral +valleys emptying into Glen Spean, the largest of which must have come +from the range of Ben Nevis,--just as the great glacier of the valley of +the Rhone once received as tributaries all the glaciers coming down into +that valley from the southern slope of the Bernese Oberland, and from +the northern slope of the Valesian Alps, and at one time also from the +eastern slopes of the range of Mont Blanc. And when the large glacier +occupying the lower, and therefore warmer, level gradually disappeared +and retreated far away to levels where it could maintain itself against +the effect of a returning milder climate, the opening spring of our era, +as we may call it, the lateral glaciers, arising from the nearer high +grounds, could extend across the valleys, but not before. + + + + +UNDER THE CLIFF. + + + "Still ailing, Wind? Wilt be appeased or no? + Which needs the other's office, thou or I? + Dost want to be disburthened of a woe, + And can, in truth, my voice untie + Its links, and let it go? + + "Art thou a dumb, wronged thing that would be righted, + Intrusting thus thy cause to me? Forbear! + No tongue can mend such pleadings; faith, requited + With falsehood,--love, at last aware + Of scorn,--hopes, early blighted,-- + + "We have them; but I know not any tone + So fit as thine to falter forth a sorrow: + Dost think men would go mad without a moan, + If they knew any way to borrow + A pathos like thy own? + + "Which sigh wouldst mock, of all the sighs? The one + So long escaping from lips starved and blue, + That lasts while on her pallet-bed the nun + Stretches her length; her foot comes through + The straw she shivers on,-- + + "You had not thought she was so tall; and spent, + Her shrunk lids open; her lean fingers shut + Close, close; their sharp and livid nails indent + The clammy palm; then all is mute: + That way, the spirit went. + + "Or wouldst thou rather that I understand + Thy will to help me?--like the dog I found + Once, pacing sad this solitary strand, + Who would not take my food, poor hound, + But whined and licked my hand." + + * * * * * + + All this, and more, comes from some young man's pride + Of power to see, in failure and mistake, + Relinquishment, disgrace, on every side, + Merely examples for his sake, + Helps to his path untried: + + Instances he must--simply recognize? + Oh, more than so!--must, with a learner's zeal, + Make doubly prominent, twice emphasize, + By added touches that reveal + The god in babe's disguise. + + Oh, he knows what defeat means, and the rest, + Himself the undefeated that shall be! + Failure, disgrace, he flings them you to test,-- + His triumph in eternity + Too plainly manifest! + + Whence judge if he learn forthwith what the wind + Means in its moaning,--by the happy, prompt, + Instinctive way of youth, I mean,--for kind + Calm years, exacting their accompt + Of pain, mature the mind: + + And some midsummer morning, at the lull + Just about daybreak, as he looks across + A sparkling foreign country, wonderful + To the sea's edge for gloom and gloss + Next minute must annul,-- + + Then, when the wind begins among the vines, + So low, so low, what shall it mean but this? + "Here is the change beginning, here the lines + Circumscribe beauty, set to bliss + The limit time assigns." + + Nothing can be as it has been before; + Better, so call it, only not the same. + To draw one beauty into our hearts' core, + And keep it changeless! such our claim; + So answered,--Never more! + + Simple? Why, this is the old woe o' the world, + Tune to whose rise and fall we live and die. + Rise through it, then! Rejoice that man is hurled + From change to change unceasingly, + His soul's wings never furled! + + That's a new question; still remains the fact, + Nothing endures: the wind moans, saying so; + We moan in acquiescence: there's life's pact, + Perhaps probation,--do _I_ know? + God does: endure His act! + + Only, for man, how bitter not to grave + On his soul's hands' palms one fair, good, wise thing + Just as he grasped it! For himself, death's wave; + While time first washes--ah, the sting!-- + O'er all he'd sink to save. + + + + +SEVEN WEEKS IN THE GREAT YO-SEMITE. + + +It is as hard to leave San Francisco as to get there. To a traveller +paying his first visit it has the interest of a new planet. It ignores +the meteorological laws which govern the rest of the world. There is no +snow there. There are no summer showers. The tailor recognizes no +aphelion or perihelion in his custom: the thin woollen suit which his +patron had made in April is comfortably worn until April again. The only +change of stockings there is from wet to dry, or from soiled to clean. +Save that in so-called winter frequent rainfalls alternate with spotless +intervals of amber weather, and that _soi-disant_ summer is one entire +amber mass, its unbroken divine days concrete in it, there is no +inequality on which to forbid the banns between May and December. In San +Francisco there is no work for the scene-shifter of Nature: the wealth +of that great dramatist, the year, resulting in the same manner as the +poverty of dabblers in private theatricals,--a single flat doing service +for the entire play. Thus, save for the purpose of notes-of-hand, the +Almanac of San Francisco might replace its mutable months and seasons +with one great kindly, constant, sumptuous All The Year Round. + +Out of this benignant sameness what glorious fruits are produced! Fruit +enough metaphorical: for the scientific man or artist who cannot make +hay while such a sun shines from April to November must be a slothful +laborer indeed. But fruit also literal: for what joy of vegetation is +lacking to the man who every month in the year can look through his +study-window on a green lawn, and have strawberries and cream for his +breakfast,--who can sit down to this royal fruit, and at the same time +to apricots, peaches, nectarines, blackberries, raspberries, melons, +figs both yellow and purple, early apples, and grapes of three kinds? + +Another delightful fact of San Francisco is the Occidental Hotel. Its +comfort is like that of a royal home. There is nothing inn-ish about it. +Remembering the chief hotels of many places, I am constrained to say +that I have never, even in New York, seen its equal for elegance of +appointment, attentiveness of servants, or excellence of _cuisine_. +Having come to this extreme of civilization from the extreme of +barbarism, we found that it actually needed an exertion to leap from the +lap of luxury, after a fortnight's pleasaunce, and take to the woods +again in flannel and corduroys. + +But far more seductive than the beautiful bay, the heavenly climate, the +paradisiacal fruits, and the royal hotel of San Francisco, were the old +friends whom we found, and the new ones we made there. With but one +exception, (and that an express-company, not a man,) we were received by +all our San-Francisco acquaintance in a kind and helpful manner, with a +welcome and a cheer as delightful to ourselves as it was honorable to +them. Need I say whose brotherly hands were among the very first +outstretched to us, in whose happy home we found our sweetest rest, by +whose radiant face and golden speech we were most lovingly detained +evening after evening and far into the night? A few days ago when we +read that dreadful message, "_Starr King is dead_," the lightning that +carried it seemed to end in our hearts. We withered under it; California +had lost its soul for us; at noon or in dreams that balmy land would +nevermore be the paradise it once was to us. The last hand that pressed +our own, when we sailed for the Isthmus on our way home, was the same +that had been first to give us our California welcome. Just before the +lines were cast off, Starr King stood at the door of our state-room, and +said,-- + +"I could not bear to have you go away without one more good-bye. Here +are the _cartes-de-visite_ I promised. They look hard-worked, but they +look like me. Good bye! God bless you! I hope to make a visit to the +East next summer, and then we will get together somewhere by the sea. +Good bye!" + +He went down the ladder. When the steamer glided off, his bright face +sent benedictions after us as far as we could see; and then, for the +last time on earth, that great, that good, that beloved man faded from +our sight,--but, oh! never from our hearts, either in the here or the +hereafter. "We shall see him, but not now." We shall be together with +him "in the summer, by the sea"; but that summer shall have other glory +than the sun to lighten it, and the sea shall be of crystal. + +King was to have joined us in our Yo-Semite trip. We little knew that we +were losing, for this world, our last opportunity of close daily +intercourse with his sweet spirit, though we were grievously +disappointed when he told us, on the eve of our setting out, that work +for the nation must detain him in San Francisco, after all. + +If report was true, we were going to the original site of the Garden of +Eden,--into a region which out-Bendemered Bendemere, out-valleyed the +valley of Rasselas, surpassed the Alps in its waterfalls, and the +Himmal'yeh in its precipices. As for the two former subjects of +comparison, we never met any tourist who could adjust the question from +his own experience; but the superiority of the Yo-Semite to the Alpine +cataracts was a matter put beyond doubt by repeated judgments, and a +couple of English officers who had explored the wildest Himmal'yeh +scenery told Starr King that there was no precipice in Asia to be +compared for height or grandeur with Tu-toch-anula and Tis-sa-ack. + +We were going into the vale whose giant domes and battlements had months +before thrown their photographic shadow through Watkins's camera across +the mysterious wide continent, causing exclamations of awe at Goupil's +window, and ecstasy in Dr. Holmes's study. At Goupil's counter and in +Starr King's drawing-room we had gazed on them by the hour already,--I, +let me confess it, half a Thomas-a-Didymus to Nature, unwilling to +believe the utmost true of her till I could put my finger in her very +prints. Now we were going to test her reported largess for ourselves. + +No Saratoga affair, this! A total lack of tall trunks, frills, and +curling-kids. Driven by the oestrum of a Yo-Semite pilgrimage, the +San-Francisco belle forsakes (the Western vernacular is "goes back on") +her back-hair, abandons her capillary "waterfalls" for those of the +Sierra, and, like John Phoenix's old lady who had her whole osseous +system removed by the patent tooth-puller, departs, leaving her +"skeleton" behind her. The bachelor who cares to see unhooped womanhood +once more before he dies should go to the Yo-Semite. The scene was three +or four times presented to us during our seven weeks' camp +there,--though the trip is one which might well cost a feeble woman her +life. + +Our male preparations were of the most pioneer description. One wintry +day since my return I was riding in a train on the New-York Central, +when an undaunted herdsman, returning Westward, flushed with the sale of +beeves, accosted me with the question,--"Friend, yeou've travelled +consid'able, and believe in the religion of Natur', don't ye?" "Why so?" +I responded. "_Them boots_," replied my new acquaintance, pointing at a +pair with high knee-caps, like those our party wore to the Yo-Semite. +Otherwise, we took the oldest clothes we had,--and it is not difficult +to find that variety in the trunk of a recent overland stager. We were +armed with Ballard rifles, shot-guns, and Colt's revolvers which had +come with us across the continent; our ammunition we got in San +Francisco, together with all such commissariat-luxuries as were worth +transportation: our necessaries we left to be purchased at that +jumping-off place of civilization, Mariposa, whence we were to start our +pack-mules into the wilderness. Let me recommend tourists like +ourselves to include in the former catalogue plenty of canned fruits, +sardines, and apple-butter,--in the latter, a jug of sirup for the +inevitable camp slapjacks. No woodsman, as will presently appear in our +narrative, can tell when a slapjack may be the last plank between him +and starvation; and to this plank how powerfully sirup enables him to +stick! + +The only portion of our outfit which would have pleased an exquisite +(and he must be rather of the Count-Devereux than the Foppington-Flutter +school) was our horseflesh. That greatest of luxuries, a really good +saddle-animal, is readily and reasonably attainable in California. +Everybody rides there; if you wish to create a sensation with your +horsemanship in the streets of San Francisco, you must ride ill, not +well: everybody does this last. Even since the horse-railroad has begun +to clutter Montgomery Street (the San-Franciscan Boulevards) with its +cars, it is a daily matter to see capitalists and statesmen charging +through that thoroughfare on a gallop, which, if repeated in Broadway by +Henry G. Stebbins, would cost him his reputation on 'Change and his seat +in the next Congress. The nation of beggars-on-horseback which first +colonized California has left behind it many traditions unworthy of +conservation, and multitudinous fleas not at all traditional, but even +less keepworthy; but all honor be to the Spaniards, Greasers, and +Mixed-Breeds for having rooted the noble idea of horsemanship so firmly +in the country that even street-railroads cannot uproot it, and that +Americans who never sat even so little as an Atlantic-State's pony, on +coming here presently take to the saddle with all their hearts. In most +of the smaller Californian towns, a very serviceable half- or +quarter-breed saddle-horse is to be had for forty dollars,--the "breed" +portion of his blood being drawn from an Eastern stallion, the remaining +fraction being native or Mustang stock. This animal, if need be, will +live on road-side croppings nearly as well as a mule,--travel all day +long on an easy "lope," never offering to stop till fatigue makes him +fall,--and, if you let him, will take you through _chaparrals_, and up +and down precipices at whose bare suggestion an Eastern horse would +break his legs. Our party, seeking rather more ambitious mounts, +supplied itself, after a tour through the San-Francisco stables, with +saddle-animals at an average of seventy dollars apiece. This, payable in +gold, then amounted to one hundred dollars in notes; but the New-York +market could not have furnished us with such horses for one hundred and +fifty dollars. + +It may seem as if, like most cavalcades, we should never get started, +but I must linger a moment to do justice to our accoutrements. If there +be a more perfect saddle than the Californian, I would ride bare-back a +good way to get it. Anything more unlike the slippery little pad on +which we of the East amble about parks and suburban roads cannot be +imagined. It is not for a day, but for all time, and for those who spend +nearly the latter in it. Its wooden skeleton is as scientifically fitted +to the rider's form as an old "_incroyable's_" pair of pantaloons. There +is no such thing as getting tired in or of it. Rising to the lower +lumbar vertebrae behind, and in front terminating gracefully in a +broad-topped pommel, it enables one to lean back in descending, forward +in climbing, the great ridges on the path of California travel,--thus +affording capital relief both to one's self and one's horse, and +bringing in both from a fifty-miles' march comparatively unjaded. + +The stirrups of this saddle are broad hickory hoops, shaped nearly like +an Omega upside-down (U)[Transcriber's note: upside down Omega], left +unpolished so as to afford the most unshakable footing, covered with a +half-shoe of the stoutest leather, which renders it impossible for the +toe to slip through or the ankle to foul under any circumstances. +Attached to the straps from which these swing is a wide and neatly +ornamented stirrup-leather, which effectually prevents the grazing of +the rider's leg. The surcingle, or, _Californice_, the _cinch_, is a +broad strip of hair-cloth with a padded ring at either end through which +you reeve and fasten with a half-hitch stout straps sewed to other rings +under the saddle-flaps. This arrangement is not only far securer than +our Eastern buckle, but enables you to graduate the tightness of your +girth much more delicately, and make a far snugger fit. + +The only particular in which I could not commend and adopt the native +practice was the Mexican bit. It is a dreadful instrument of torture, +putting immense leverage in the rider's hands, and enabling him at will +to tear the mouth of his horse to pieces; indeed, the horse on which it +is used is guided entirely by pressure on the opposite side of the neck +from that in which one seeks to turn him. Our Eastern way of drawing his +head around would so lift the bit as to drive him frantic. There are +very few horses of any breed, even the Mustang, that _never_ stumble; +and as I prefer lifting my horse to letting him break his knees or neck, +I want a bridle I can pull upon without tearing his mouth. So, in spite +of its handsome appearance and the very manageable single white cord +into which its two reins are braided, I eschewed the Mexican head-gear, +and took the ordinary Eastern snaffle and curb. Immense spurs completed +our accoutrement,--whips being here unknown. + +I may as well make a word-map of our route before going farther. +Pilgrims to the Yo-Semite ship themselves and their horses from San +Francisco by steamer to Stockton. This town is on the San Joaquin, the +most northerly of a series of rivers fed directly from the Sierra Nevada +water-shed, and here through the middle portion of the State,--a series, +indeed, continued through much of the still lower Pacific coast to the +Isthmus of Nicaragua. The Sacramento drains quite a different region, +that of the broad plains between the Sierra and Coast ranges, occupying +the northern portion of the State,--resembling in its physical features, +much more than any of the Pacific streams beside, the large isolated +trunks which drain the east slope of the Alleghanies. The Colorado is +almost the only other large river created from many tributaries, which +debouches between the Columbia and the Isthmus,--and that rises east of +the mathematical axis of the Rocky Mountains. The Yo-Semite valley is +one of the cradles through which the short Sierra-draining rivers reach +the ocean; its threading stream is the Merced; and if on any good +United-States Survey-map you will please to follow that river back to +the mountains, when your finger-nail touches the Sierra it will be (or +would, were the maps somewhat correcter) in the Great Yo-Semite. You +will then see that our course led us across three streams, after leaving +the San Joaquin at Stockton _en route_ for Mariposa,--the Stanislaus, +the Tuolomne, and the Main Merced. The distance from Stockton to +Mariposa is about one hundred miles, a small part of the way between +fenced ranches, a much greater part on wide, open, rolling plains, +somewhat like those of Nebraska, embraced between the two great ranges +of the State. Here and there you find an isolated herdsman or a small +settlement dropped down in this not unfruitful waste, and thrice you +come to a hybrid town, with a Spanish _plaza_, and Yankee notions sold +around it. We went the distance leisurely, consuming four days to +Mariposa, for we stopped here and there to sketch, "peep, and botanize"; +besides, we were dragging with us a Jersey wagon, bought second-hand in +Stockton, in which we carried our heavier outfit till we should get our +extra pack-beasts at Mariposa, and to which we had harnessed for their +first time an implacable white mule with an incapable white horse, to +neither of which each other's society or their own new trade was +congenial. + +I shall not linger here as we did there. To an ornithologist the whole +road is interesting,--especially to one making a specialty of owls. The +only game within easy reach is the dove and the California +ground-squirrel,--a big fellow, much like our Northeastern gray, +barring the former's subterranean habits. On the plains threaded by the +road the pasture is good, save in the extremest drought of summer, when +the great herds which usually feed at large on and between the +river-bottoms are driven to the rich green grass in the high valleys of +the Sierra,--or ought to be: many cattle died along the San Joaquin last +summer for want of this care. Occasionally the road winds through the +refreshing shadow of a grove of live-oaks, standing far from any water +on a sandy knoll. But the most magnificent trees of the oak family that +I ever beheld were growing on the banks of the Tuolomne River, where we +forded it at Roberts's Ferry. They were not merely in dimension superior +to the finest white-oaks of the East, but surpassed in beauty every +tradition of their genus. Their vast gnarled branches followed as +exquisite curves as belong to any elm on a New-England meadow, and wept +at the extremities like those of that else matchless tree,--possessing, +moreover, a sumptuous affluence of leafage, an arboreal _embonpoint_, +unknown to their graceful sister of our lowlands. Be sure that we +lingered long among their shadows with book and pencil, and look for a +desirable acquaintance with new Dryads when they grow into the life of +color from our artists' hands. + +At Princeton, a thriving suburb of Mariposa, we completed our cavalcade +of pack-animals, transferred our wagon-load to their backs, (the average +mule-pack weighs from two hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds,) +roped it there in the most approved _muletero_-fashion, and started into +the wilderness. + +Let us call the roll. Beside Bierstadt and the two other gentlemen who +with myself had formed the original overland-party, we numbered two +young artists of great merit now sojourning for a short time in +California, Williams, an old Roman, and Perry, an ancient Duesseldorf +friend,--also a highly scientific metallurgist and physicist generally, +Dr. John Hewston of San Francisco. + +To serve the party we secured a man and a boy. Regarding the former, +perhaps the more truthful assertion would be that he secured us; for, as +will shortly appear, though we bought his services, he sold us in +return. We picked him up in a San-Francisco employment-office, after +looking all over the city for a respectable groom and camp-cook, and +finding that in a scarce-labor country like California even fifty gold +dollars per month, with keep and expenses, were no sufficient bait for +the catch we wanted. He was a meagre, wiry fellow, with sandy hair, +serviceable-looking hands, and no end to self-recommendations; but then +it was impossible to ask after him at his "last place," that having been +General Johnston's camp during Buchanan's forcible-feeble occupation of +Utah. As he said he had been a teamster, and knew that soup-meat went +into cold water, we rushed blindly into an engagement with him, +marriage-service fashion, and took him for better or worse. The thing +which I think finally "fired our Northern hearts" and clinched the +matter was his assertion of nephewship to the Secession Governor Vance, +whose name he bore, combined with unswerving personal loyalty. Lest by +some future D'Israeli this be written down among the traditional +greennesses of learned men, let me say that he was our _pis-aller_,--we +finding ourselves within two hours of the Stockton boat, with nobody to +help pack our mules or care for them and the horses. + +The boy we obtained near Mariposa. He was an independent squire to the +man of whom we got the extra animals, and accompanied them as a sort of +trustee and _prochein amy_ to an orphan family of mules. At fifteen +years and in jackets, he was one of the keenest speculators in fire-arms +I ever saw; could swap horses or play poker with anybody; and, take him +for all in all, in the Eastern States, at least, I shall never look upon +his like again. + +Thus manned, and leading, turn-about, four or five pack-beasts by as +many tow-lines, we struck up into the well-wooded Sierra foot-hills, +commencing our climb at the very outset from Mariposa. The whole +distance to the Valley was fifty miles. For twelve of these we pursued a +road in some degree practicable to carts, and leading to one of those +inevitable steam saw-mills with which a Yankee always cuts his first +swath into the tall grass of Barbarism. Passing the saw-mill in the very +act of astonishing the wilderness with a dinner-whistle, we struck a +trail and fell into single file. Thenceforward our way was almost a +continuous alternation of descent and climb over outlying ridges of the +Sierra. Our raw-recruited mules, and the elementary condition of our +intellects in the science of professional packing, spun out this portion +of our journey to three days,--though allowance is to be made for the +fact of our stopping at noon of the second day and not resuming our +trail till the morning of the third. This interim we spent in visiting +the Big Trees, which are situated four or five miles off the Yo-Semite +track. + +"Clark's," where tourists stop for this purpose, is just half-way +between Mariposa and the great Valley. "Clark" himself is one of the +best-informed men, one of the very best guides, I ever met in the +Californian or any other wilderness. He is a fine-looking, stalwart old +grizzly-hunter and miner of the '49 days, wears a noble full beard hued +like his favorite game, but no head-covering of any kind since he +recovered from a fever which left his head intolerant of even a slouch. +He lives among folk, near Mariposa, in the winter, and in summer +occupies a hermitage built by himself in one of the loveliest lofty +valleys of the Sierra. Here he gives travellers a surprise by the nicest +poached eggs and rashers of bacon, home-made bread and wild-strawberry +sweetmeats, which they will find in the State. + +Before reaching Clark's we had been astonished at the dimensions of the +ordinary pines and firs, our trail for miles at a time running through +forests where trees one hundred and fifty feet high were very common and +trees of two hundred feet by no means rare, while some of the very +largest must have considerably surpassed the latter measurement. + +But these were in their turn dwarfed by the Big Trees proper, as +thoroughly as themselves would have dwarfed a common Green-Mountain +forest. I find no one on this side the continent who believes the +literal truth which travellers tell about these marvellous giants. +People sometimes think they do, but that is only because they fail to +realize the proposition. They have no concrete idea of how the asserted +proportions look. Tell a carpenter, or any other man at home with the +look of dimensions, what you have seen in the Mariposa-County groves, +and his eye grows incredulous in a moment. I freely confess, that, +though I always thought I _had_ believed travellers in their recitals on +this subject, when I saw the trees I found I had bargained to credit no +such story as that, and for a moment felt half-reproachful towards the +friends who had cheated me of my faith under a misapprehension. + +Take the dry statistics of the matter. Out of one hundred and thirty-two +trees which have been measured, not one underruns twenty-eight feet in +circumference; five range between thirty-two and thirty-six feet; +fifty-eight between forty and fifty feet; thirty-four between fifty and +sixty; fourteen between sixty and seventy; thirteen between seventy and +eighty; two between eighty and ninety; two between ninety and one +hundred; two are just one hundred; and one is one hundred and two. This +last, before the storms truncated it, had a height of four hundred feet. +I found a rough ladder laid against its trunk,--for it is +prostrate,--and climbed upon its side by that and steps cut in the bark. +I mounted the swell of the trunk to the butt and there made the +measurement which ascertained its diameter as thirty-four feet,--its +circumference one hundred and two feet _plus_ a fraction. Of course the +thickness of its bark is various, but I cut off some of it to a foot in +depth and there was evidently plenty more below that. + +To make some rough attempt at a conception of what these figures amount +to, suppose the tree fallen at the gable of an ordinary two-story house. +You propose to cross by a plank laid from your roof to the upper side of +the tree. That plank would perceptibly slope _up_ from your roof-peak. +Through another tree, lying prostrate also, and hollow from end to end, +our whole cavalcade charged at the full trot for a distance of one +hundred and fifty feet. The entire length of this tree before truncation +had been about three hundred and fifty feet. In the hollow bases of +trees still standing we easily sheltered ourselves and horses. We tried +throwing to the top of some of them with ludicrous unsuccess, and +finally came to the monarch of them all, a glorious monster not included +in the above table of dimensions, as most of those measured are still +living, and all have the bark upon them still, while _the_ tree is to +some extent barked and charred. When it stood erect in its live +wrappings, it measured forty feet in diameter,--over one hundred and +twenty in circumference! Estimates, grounded on the well-known principle +of yearly cortical increase, indisputably throw back the birth of these +largest giants as far as 1200 B. C. Thus their tender saplings +were running up just as the gates of Troy were tumbling down, and some +of them had fulfilled the lifetime of the late Hartford Charter-Oak when +Solomon called his master-masons to refreshment from the building of the +Temple. We cannot realize time-images as we can those of space by a +reference to dimensions within experience, so that the age of these +marvellous trees still remains to me an incomprehensible fact, though +with my mind's eye I continue to see how mountain-massy they look, and +how dwarfed is the man who leans against them. We lingered among them +half a day, the artists making color-studies of the most picturesque, +the rest of us _izing_ away at something scientific,--Botany, +Entomology, or Statistics. In Geology and Mineralogy there is nothing to +do here or in the Valley,--the formation all being typical Sierra-Nevada +granite, with no specimens to keep or problems to solve. Of course our +artists neither made nor expected to make anything like a realizing +picture of the groves. The marvellous of size does not go into gilt +frames. You paint a Big Tree, and it only looks like a common tree in a +cramped coffin. To be sure, you can put a live figure against the butt +for comparison; but, unless you take a canvas of the size of Haydon's, +your picture is quite as likely to resemble Homunculus against an +average timber-tree as a large man against _Sequoia gigantea_. What our +artists did do was to get a capital transcript of the Big Trees' +color,--a beautifully bright cinnamon-brown, which gives peculiar gayety +to the forest, "making sunshine in the shady place"; also, their typical +figure, which is a very lofty, straight, and branchless trunk, crowned +almost at the summit by a mass of colossal gnarled boughs, slender plumy +fronds, delicate thin leaves, and smooth cones scarce larger than a +plover's egg. Perhaps the best idea of their figure may be obtained by +fancying an Italian stone-pine grown out of recollection. + +Between all the ridges we had hitherto crossed, silvery streams leaped +down intensely cold through the granite chasms,--all of them fed from +the snow-peaks, and charmingly picturesque,--most of them good +trout-brooks, had we possessed time to try a throw; and now, on leaving +Clark's, we crossed the largest of these, a fork of the Merced which +flows through his valley. For twelve miles farther a series of +tremendous climbs tasked us and our beasts to the utmost, but brought us +quite _apropos_ at dinner-time to a lovely green meadow walled in on one +side by near snow-peaks. A small brook running through it speedily +furnished us with frogs enough for an _entree_. Between two and three in +the afternoon we set out upon the last stage of our pilgrimage. We were +now nearly on a plane with the top of the mighty precipices which wall +the Yo-Semite Valley, and for two hours longer found the trail easy, +save where it crossed the bogs of summit-level springs. + +Immediately after leaving the meadow where we dined we plunged again +into the thick forest, where every now and then some splendid grouse or +the beautiful plume-crowned California quail went whirring away from +before our horses. Here and there a broad grizzly "sign" intersected our +trail. The tall purple deer-weed, a magnificent scarlet flower of name +unknown to me, and another blossom like the laburnum, endlessly varied +in its shades of roseate, blue, or the compromised tints, made the +hill-sides gorgeous beyond human gardening. All these were scentless; +but one other flower, much rarer, made fragrance enough for all. This +was the "Lady Washington," and much resembled a snowy day-lily with an +odor of tuberoses. Our dense leafy surrounding hid from us the fact of +our approach to the Valley's tremendous battlement, till our trail +turned at a sharp angle and we stood on "Inspiration Point." + +That name had appeared pedantic, but we found it only the spontaneous +expression of our own feelings on the spot. We did not so much seem to +be seeing from that crag of vision a new scene on the old familiar globe +as a new heaven and a new earth into which the creative spirit had just +been breathed. I hesitate now, as I did then, at the attempt to give my +vision utterance. Never were words so beggared for an abridged +translation of any Scripture of Nature. + +We stood on the verge of a precipice more than three thousand feet in +height,--a sheer granite wall, whose terrible perpendicular distance +baffled all visual computation. Its foot was hidden among hazy green +_spiculae_--they might be tender spears of grass catching the slant sun +on upheld aprons of cobweb, or giant pines whose tops that sun first +gilt before he made gold of all the Valley. + +There faced us another wall like our own. How far off it might be we +could only guess. When Nature's lightning hits a man fair and square, it +splits his yardstick. On recovering from this stroke, mathematicians +have ascertained the width of the Valley to vary between half a mile and +five miles. Where we stood the width is about two. + +I said a wall like our own; but as yet we could not know that certainly, +for of our own we saw nothing. Our eyes seemed spell-bound to the +tremendous precipice which stood smiling, not frowning at us, in all the +serene radiance of a snow-white granite Boodh,--broadly burning, rather +than glistening, in the white-hot splendors of the setting sun. From +that sun, clear back to the first _avant-courier_ trace of purple +twilight flushing the eastern sky-rim--yes, as if it were the very +butment of the eternally blue Californian heaven--ran that wall, always +sheer as the plummet, without a visible break through which squirrel +might climb or sparrow fly,--so broad that it was just faint-lined like +the paper on which I write by the loftiest waterfall in the world,--so +lofty that its very breadth could not dwarf it, while the mighty pines +and Douglas firs which grew all along its edge seemed like mere cilia on +the granite lid of the Great Valley's upgazing eye. In the first +astonishment of the view, we took the whole battlement at a sweep, and +seemed to see an unbroken sky-line; but as ecstasy gave way to +examination, we discovered how greatly some portions of the precipice +surpassed our immediate _vis-a-vis_ in height. + +First, a little east of our off-look, there projected boldly into the +Valley from the dominant line of the base a square stupendous tower that +might have been hewn by the diamond adzes of the Genii for a second +Babel-experiment, in expectance of the wrath of Allah. Here and there +the tools had left a faint scratch, only deep as the width of Broadway +and a bagatelle of five hundred feet in length; but that detracted no +more from the unblemished four-square contour of the entire mass than a +pin-mark from the symmetry of a door-post. A city might have been built +on its grand flat top. And, oh! the gorgeous masses of light and shadow +which the falling sun cast on it,--the shadows like great waves, the +lights like their spumy tops and flying mist,--thrown up from the +heaving breast of a golden sea! In California at this season the dome of +heaven is cloudless; but I still dream of what must be done for the +bringing-out of Tu-toch-anula's coronation-day majesties by the broken +winter sky of fleece and fire. The height of his precipice is nearly +four thousand feet perpendicular; his name is supposed to be that of the +Valley's tutelar deity. He also rejoices in a Spanish _alias_,--some +Mission Indian having attempted to translate by "_El Capitan_" the idea +of divine authority implied in Tu-toch-anula. + +Far up the Valley to the eastward there rose far above the rest of the +sky-line, and nearly five thousand feet above the Valley, a hemisphere +of granite, capping the sheer wall, without an apparent tree or shrub to +hide its vast proportions. This we immediately recognized as the famous +To-coy-ae, better known through Watkins's photographs as the Great North +Dome. I am ignorant of the meaning of the former name, but the latter is +certainly appropriate. Between Tu-toch-anula and the Dome, the wall rose +here and there into great pinnacles and towers, but its sky-line is far +more regular than that of the southern side, where we were standing. + +We drew close to the edge of the precipice and looked along over our own +wall up the Valley. Its contour was a rough curve from our stand-point +to a station opposite the North Dome, where the Valley dwindles to its +least width, so that all the intermediate crests and pinnacles which +topped the perpendicular wall stood within our vision like the teeth of +a saw, clear and sharp-cut against the blue sky. There is the same +plumb-line uprightness in these mighty precipices as in those of the +opposite side; but their front is much more broken by bold promontories, +and their tabular tops, instead of lying horizontal, slope up at an +angle of forty-five degrees or more from the spot where we were +standing, and make a succession of oblique prism-sections whose upper +edges are between three and four thousand feet in height. But the glory +of this southern wall comes at the termination of our view opposite the +North Dome. Here the precipice rises to the height of nearly one sheer +mile with a parabolic sky-line, and its posterior surface is as +elegantly rounded as an acorn-cup. From this contour results a naked +semi-cone of polished granite, whose face would cover one of our smaller +Eastern counties, though its exquisite proportions make it seem a thing +to hold in the hollow of the hand. A small pine-covered _glacis_ of +detritus lies at its foot, but every yard above that is bare of all life +save the palaeozoic memories which have wrinkled the granite Colossus +from the earliest seethings of the fire-time. I never could call a +Yo-Semite crag _inorganic_, as I used to speak of everything not +strictly animal or vegetal. In the presence of the Great South Dome that +utterance became blasphemous. Not living was it? Who knew but the +_debris_ at its foot was merely the cast-off sweat and _exuviae_ of a +stone life's great work-day? Who knew but the vital changes which were +going on within its gritty cellular tissue were only imperceptible to us +because silent and vastly secular? What was he who stood up before +Tis-sa-ack and said, "Thou art dead rock!" save a momentary sojourner in +the bosom of a cyclic period whose clock his race had never yet lived +long enough to hear strike? What, too, if Tis-sa-ack himself were but +one of the atoms in a grand organism where we could see only by monads +at a time,--if he and the sun and the sea were but cells or organs of +some one small being in the fenceless _vivarium_ of the Universe? Let +not the ephemeron that lights on a baby's hand generalize too rashly +upon the non-growing of organisms! As we thought on these things, we +bared our heads to the barer forehead of Tis-sa-ack. + +I have spoken of the Great South Dome in the masculine gender, but the +native tradition makes it feminine. Nowhere is there a more beautiful +Indian legend than that of Tis-sa-ack. I will condense it into a few +short sentences from the long report of an old Yo-Semite brave. +Tis-sa-ack was the tutelar goddess of the Valley, as Tu-toch-anula was +its fostering god,--the former a radiant maiden, the latter an +ever-young immortal,-- + + "amorous as the month of May." + +Becoming desperately fascinated with his fair colleague, Tu-toch-anula +spent in her arms all the divine long days of the California summer, +kissing, dallying, and lingering, until the Valley-tribes began to +starve for lack of the crops which his supervision should have ripened, +and a deputation of venerable men came from the dying people to +prostrate themselves at the foot of Tis-sa-ack. Full of anguish at her +nation's woes, she rose from her lover's arms, and cried for succor to +the Great Spirit. Then, with a terrible noise of thunder, the mighty +cone split from heaven to earth,--its frontal half falling down to dam +the snow-waters back into a lake, whence to this day the beautiful +Valley-stream takes one of its loveliest branches,--its other segment +remaining erect till this present, to be the Great South Dome under the +_in-memoriam_ title of Tis-sa-ack. But the divine maiden who died to +save her people appeared on earth no more, and in his agony +Tu-toch-anula carved her image on the face of the mile-high wall, as he +had carved his own on the surface of El Capitan,--where a lively faith +and good glasses may make out the effigies unto this day. + +Sometimes these Indian traditions, being translated according to the +doctrine of correspondences, are of great use to the scientific man,--in +the present instance, as embalming with sweet spices a geological fact, +and the reason of a water-course which else might become obscured by +time. You may lose a rough fact because everybody is handling it and +passing it around with the sense of a liberty to present it next in his +own way; but a fact with its facets cut--otherwise a poem--is +unchangeable, imperditable. Seeing it has been manufactured once, nobody +tries to make it over again. The fact is regarded subject to liberal +translation; poems circulate virgin and _verbatim_. In some future +article I may recur to this topic with reference to the Columbia River, +and the capital light afforded to delvers in its wondrous trap-rock by +the lantern of Indian legend. + +Let us leave the walls of the Valley to speak of the Valley itself, as +seen from this great altitude. There lies a sweep of emerald grass +turned to chrysoprase by the slant-beamed sun,--chrysoprase beautiful +enough to have been the tenth foundation-stone of John's apocalyptic +heaven. Broad and fair just beneath us, it narrows to a little strait of +green between the butments that uplift the giant domes. Far to the +westward, widening more and more, it opens into the bosom of great +mountain-ranges,--into a field of perfect light, misty by its own +excess,--into an unspeakable suffusion of glory created from the +phoenix-pile of the dying sun. Here it lies almost as treeless as some +rich old clover-mead; yonder, its luxuriant smooth grasses give way to a +dense wood of cedars, oaks, and pines. Not a living creature, either man +or beast, breaks the visible silence of this inmost paradise; but for +ourselves, standing at the precipice, petrified, as it were, rock on +rock, the great world might well be running back in stone-and-grassy +dreams to the hour when God had given him as yet but two daughters, the +crag and the clover. We were breaking into the sacred closet of Nature's +self-examination. What if, on considering herself, she should of a +sudden, and us-ward unawares, determine to begin the throes of a new +cycle,--spout up remorseful lavas from her long-hardened conscience, and +hurl us all skyward in a hot concrete with her unbosomed sins? Earth +below was as motionless as the ancient heavens above, save for the +shining serpent of the Merced, which silently to our ears threaded the +middle of the grass, and twinkled his burnished back in the sunset +wherever for a space he gilded out of the shadow of woods. + +To behold this Promised Land proved quite a different thing from +possessing it. Only the _silleros_ of the Andes, our mules, horses, and +selves, can understand how much like a nightmare of endless roof-walking +was the descent down the face of the precipice. A painful and most +circuitous dug-way, where our animals had constantly to stop, lest their +impetus should tumble them headlong, all the way past steeps where the +mere thought of a side-fall was terror, brought us in the twilight to a +green meadow, ringed by woods, on the banks of the Merced. + +Here we pitched our first Yo-Semite camp,--calling it "Camp Rosalie," +after a dear absent friend of mine and Bierstadt's. Removing our packs +and saddles, we dismissed their weary bearers to the deep green meadow, +with no farther qualification to their license than might be found in +ropes seventy feet long fastened to deep-driven pickets. We soon got +together dead wood and pitchy boughs enough to kindle a roaring +fire,--made a kitchen-table by wedging logs between the trunks of a +three-forked tree, and thatching these with smaller sticks,--selected a +cedar-canopied piece of flat sward near the fire for our bed-room, and +as high up as we could reach despoiled our fragrant _baldacchini_ for +the mattresses. I need not praise to any woodsman the quality of a sleep +on evergreen-strewings. + +During our whole stay in the Valley, most of us made it our practice to +rise with the dawn, and, immediately after a bath in the ice-cold +Merced, take a breakfast which might sometimes fail in the +game-department, but was an invariable success, considered as slapjacks +and coffee. Then the loyal nephew of the Secesh governor and the +testamentary guardian of the orphan mules brought our horses up from +picket; then the artists with their camp-stools and color-boxes, the +sages with their goggles, nets, botany-boxes, and bug-holders, the +gentlemen of elegant leisure with their naked eyes and a fish-rod or a +gun, all rode away whither they listed, firing back Parthian shots of +injunction about the dumpling in the grouse-fricassee. + +Sitting in their divine workshop, by a little after sunrise our artists +began labor in that only method which can ever make a true painter or a +living landscape, _color_-studies on the spot; and though I am not here +to speak of their results, I will assert that during their seven weeks' +camp in the Valley they learned more and gained greater material for +future triumphs than they had gotten in all their lives before at the +feet of the greatest masters. Meanwhile the other two vaguely divided +orders of gentlemen and sages were sight-seeing, whipping the covert or +the pool with various success for our next day's dinner, or hunting +specimens of all kinds,--_Agassizing_, so to speak. + +I cannot praise the Merced to that vulgar, yet extensive, class of +sportsmen with whom fishing means nothing but catching fish,--to that +select minority of _illuminati_ who go trouting for intellectual +culture, because they cannot hear Booth or a _Sonata_ of +Beethoven's,--who write rhapsodies of much fire and many pages on the +divine superiority of the curve of an hyperbola over that of a parabola +in the cast of a fly,--who call three little troutlings "_a splendid +day's sport, me boy_!" because those rash and ill-advised infants have +been deceived by a feather-bug which never would have been of any use to +them, instead of a real worm which would. We, who can make prettier +curves and deceive larger game in a dancing-party at home, did not go to +the Yo-Semite for that kind of sport. When I found that the best bait or +fly caught only half a dozen trout in an afternoon,--and those the dull, +black, California kind, with lined sides, but no spots,--I gave over +bothering the unambitious burghers of the flood with invitations to a +rise in life, and took to the meadows with a butterfly-net. + +My experience teaches that no sage (or gentleman) should chase the +butterfly on horseback. You are liable to put your net over your horse's +head instead of the butterfly. The butterfly keeps rather ahead of the +horse. You may throw your horse when you mean to throw the net. The idea +is a romantic one; it carries you back to the days of chivalry, when +court-butterflies _were_ said to have been netted from the saddle,--but +it carries you nowhere else in particular, unless perhaps into a small +branch of the Merced, where you don't want to go. Then, too, if you slip +down and leave your horse standing while you steal on a giant _Papilio_ +which is sucking the deer-weed in _such_ a sweet spot for a cast, your +horse (perhaps he has heard of the French general who said, "Asses and +_savans_ to the centre!") may discover that he also is a sage, and +retire to botanize while you are butterflying,--a contingency which +entails your wading the Merced after him five several times, and finally +going back to camp in wet disgust to procure another horse and a lariat. +An experience faintly hinted at in the above suggestions soon convinced +me that the great arm of the service in butterfly-warfare is infantry. +After I had turned myself into a modest Retiarius, I had no end to +success. Mariposa County is rightly named. The honey of its groves and +meadows is sucked by some of the largest, the most magnificent, and most +widely varied butterflies in the world. + +At noon those of us who came back to camp had a substantial dinner out +of our abundant stores, reinforced occasionally with grouse, quail, or +pigeons, contributed by the sportsmen. The artists mostly dined _a la +fourchette_, in their workshop,--something in a pail being carried out +to them at noon by our Infant Phenomenon. He was a skeleton of thinness, +and an incredibly gaunt mustang was the one which invariably carried the +lunch; so we used to call the boy, when we saw him coming, "Death on the +Pail-Horse." At evening, when the artists returned, half an hour was +passed in a "private view" of their day's studies; then came another +dinner, called a supper; then the tea-kettle was emptied into a pan, and +brush-washing with talk and pipes led the rest of the genial way to +bed-time. + +In his charming "Peculiar," Epes Sargent has given us an episode called +the "Story of Estelle." It is the greatest of compliments to him that I +could get thoroughly interested in her lover, when he bore the name of +one of the most audacious and _picaresque_ mortals I ever knew,--our +hired man, who sold us--our----But hear my episode: it is + + +THE STORY OF VANCE. + +Vance. The cognomen of the loyal nephew with the Secesh uncle. I will be +brief. Our stores began to fail. One morning we equipped Vance with a +horse, a pack-mule to lead behind him, a list of purchases, and eighty +golden dollars, bidding him good-speed on the trail to Mariposa. He was +to return laden with all the modern equivalents for corn, wine, and oil, +on the fifth or sixth day from his departure. Seven days glided by, and +the material for more slapjacks with them. We grew perilously nigh our +bag-bottoms. + +One morning I determined to save the party from starvation, and with a +fresh supply of the currency set out for Mariposa. At Clark's I learned +that our man had camped there about noon on the day he left us, turned +his horse and mule loose, instead of picketing them, and spent the rest +of the sunlight in a _siesta_. When he arose, his animals were +undiscoverable. He accordingly borrowed Clark's only horse to go in +search of them, and the generous hermit had not seen him since. + +Carrying these pleasant bits of intelligence, I resumed my way toward +the settlements. Coming by the steam saw-mill, I recognized Vance's +steed grazing by the way-side, threw my lariat over his head, and led +him in triumph to Mariposa. There I arrived at eight in the evening of +the day I left the Valley,--having performed fifty miles of the hardest +mountain-trail that was ever travelled in a little less than twelve +hours, making allowance for our halt and noon-feed at Clark's. If ever a +California horse was tried, it was mine on that occasion; and he came +into Mariposa on the full gallop, scarcely wet, and not galled or jaded +in the least. + +Here I found our mule, whose obstinate memory had carried him home to +his old stable,--also the remaining events in Vance's brief, but +brilliant career. That ornament of the Utah and Yo-Semite expeditions +had entered Mariposa on Clark's horse,--lost our eighty golden dollars +at a single session of bluff,--departed gayly for Coulterville, where he +sold Clark's horse at auction for forty dollars, including saddle and +bridle, and immediately at another game of bluff lost the entire +purchase-money to the happy buyer, (Clark got his horse again on proving +title,)--and finally vanished for parts unknown, with nothing in his +pocket but buttons, or in his memory but villanies. Nowhere out of +California or Old Spain can there exist such a modern survivor of the +days of Gil Blas! + +Too happy in the recovery of Clark's and our own animals to waste time +in hue-and-cry, I loaded my two reclaimed pack-beasts with all that our +commissariat needed,--nooned at Clark's, on my way back, the third day +after leaving the Valley for Mariposa, and that same night was among my +rejoicing comrades at the head of the Great Yo-Semite. That afternoon +they had come to the bottom of the flour-bag, after living for three +days on unleavened slapjacks without either butter or sirup. I have seen +people who professed to relish the Jewish Passover-bread; but, after +such an experience as our party's, I venture to say they would have +regarded it worthy of a place among the other abolished types of the +Mosaic dispensation. As for me and the mule, we felt our hearts swell +within us as if we had come to raise the siege of Leyden. In that same +enthusiasm shared our artists, _savans_, and gentlemen, embracing the +shaggy neck of the mule as he had been a brother what time they realized +that his panniers were full. Can any one wonder at my early words, "A +slapjack may be the last plank between the woodsman and starvation"? + +Just before I started after supplies our party moved its camp to a +position five miles up the Valley beyond Camp Rosalie, in a beautiful +grove of oaks and cedars, close upon the most sinuous part of the Merced +margin, with rich pasture for our animals immediately across the stream, +and the loftiest cataract in the world roaring over the bleak precipice +opposite. This is the Yo-Semite Fall proper, or, in the Indian, +"Cho-looke." By the most recent geological surveys this fall is credited +with the astounding height of twenty-eight hundred feet. At an early +period the entire mass of water must have plunged that distance without +break. At this day a single ledge of slant projection changes the +headlong flood from cataract to rapids for about four hundred feet; but +the unbroken upper fall is fifteen hundred feet, and the lower thirteen +hundred. In the spring and early summer no more magnificent sight can be +imagined than the tourist obtains from a stand-point right in the midst +of the spray, driven, as by a wind blowing thirty miles an hour, from +the thundering basin of the lower fall. At all seasons Cho-looke is the +grandest mountain-waterfall in the known world. + +While I am speaking of waterfalls, let me not omit "Po-ho-no," or "The +Bridal Veil," which was passed on the southern side in our way to the +second and about a mile above the first camp. As Tis-sa-ack was a good, +so is Po-ho-no an evil spirit of the Indian mythology. This tradition is +scientifically accounted for in the fact that many Indians have been +carried over the fall by the tremendous current both of wind and water +forever rushing down a _canon_ through which the stream breaks from its +feeding-lake twelve or fifteen miles before it falls. The savage lowers +his voice to a whisper and crouches trembling past Po-ho-no; while the +very utterance of the name is so dreaded by him that the discoverers of +the Valley obtained it with great difficulty. This fall drops on a heap +of giant boulders in one unbroken sheet of a thousand feet +perpendicular, thus being the next in height among all the +Valley-cataracts to the Yo-Semite itself, and having a width of fifty +feet. Its name of "The Bridal Veil" is one of the few successes in +fantastic nomenclature; for, to one viewing it in profile, its snowy +sheet, broken into the filmy silver lace of spray and falling quite free +of the brow of the precipice, might well seem the veil worn by the earth +at her granite wedding,--no commemorator of any fifty-years' bagatelle +like the golden one, but crowning the one-millionth anniversary of her +nuptials. + +On either side of Po-ho-no the sky-line of the precipice is +magnificently varied. The fall itself cuts a deep gorge into the crown +of the battlement. On the southwest border of the fall stands a nobly +bold, but nameless rock, three thousand feet in height. Near by is +Sentinel Rock, a solitary truncate pinnacle, towering to thirty-three +hundred feet. A little farther are "Eleachas," or "The Three Brothers," +flush with the front-surface of the precipice, but their upper posterior +bounding-planes tilted in three tiers, which reach a height of +thirty-four hundred and fifty feet. + +One of the loveliest places in the Valley is the shore of Lake +Ah-wi-yah,--a crystal pond of several acres in extent, fed by the north +fork of the Valley-stream, and lying right at the mouth of the narrow +strait between the North and South Domes. By this tranquil water we +pitched our third camp, and when the rising sun began to shine through +the mighty cleft before us, the play of color and _chiaroscuro_ on its +rugged walls was something for which an artist apt to oversleep himself +might well have sat up all the night. No such precaution was needed by +ourselves. Painters, sages, and gentlemen at large, all turned out by +dawn; for the studies were grander, the grouse and quail plentier, and +the butterflies more gorgeous than we found in any other portion of the +Valley. After passing the great cleft eastward, I found the river more +enchanting at every step. I was obliged to penetrate in this direction +entirely on foot,--clambering between squared blocks of granite +dislodged from the wall beneath the North Dome, any one of which might +have been excavated into a commodious church, and discovering, for the +pains cost by a reconnoissance of five miles, some of the loveliest +shady stretches of singing water and some of the finest minor waterfalls +in our American scenery. + +Our last camp was pitched among the crags and forests behind the South +Dome,--where the Middle Fork descends through two successive waterfalls, +which, in apparent breadth and volume, far surpass Cho-looke, while the +loftiest is nearly as high as Po-ho-no. About three miles west of the +Domes, the south wall of the Valley is interrupted by a deep _canon_ +leading in a nearly southeast direction. Through this _canon_ comes the +Middle Fork, and along its banks lies our course to the great +"Pi-wi-ack" (senselessly Englished as "Vernal") and the Nevada Falls. +For three miles from our camp opposite the Yo-Semite Fall the _canon_ is +threaded by a trail practicable for horses. At its termination we +dismounted, sent back our animals, and, strapping their loads upon our +own shoulders, struck nearly eastward by a path only less rugged than +the trackless crags around us. In some places we were compelled to +squeeze sideways through a narrow crevice in the rocks, at imminent +danger to our burden of blankets and camp-kettles; in others we became +quadrupedal, scrambling up acclivities with which the bald main +precipice had made but slight compromise. But for our light marching +order,--our only dress being knee-boots, hunting-shirt, and +trowsers,--it would have been next to impossible to reach our goal at +all. + +But none of us regretted pouring sweat or strained sinews, when, at the +end of our last terrible climb, we stood upon the oozy sod which is +brightened into eternal emerald by the spray of Pi-wi-ack. Far below our +slippery standing steeply sloped the walls of the ragged chasm down +which the snowy river charges roaring after its first headlong plunge; +an eternal rainbow flung its shimmering arch across the mighty caldron +at the base of the fall; and straight before us in one unbroken leap +came down Pi-wi-ack from a granite shelf nearly four hundred feet in +height and sixty feet in perfectly horizontal width. Some enterprising +speculator, who has since ceased to take the original seventy-five +cents' toll, a few years ago built a substantial set of rude ladders +against the perpendicular wall over which Pi-wi-ack rushes. We found it +still standing, and climbed the dizzy height in a shower of spray, so +close to the edge of the fall that we could almost wet our hands in its +rim. Once at the top, we found that Nature had been as accommodating to +the sight-seer as man himself; for the ledge we landed on was a perfect +breastwork, built from the receding precipices on either side of the +_canon_ to the very crown of the cataract. The weakest nerves need not +have trembled, when once within the parapet, on the smooth, flat +rampart, and looking down into the tremendous boiling chasm whence we +had just climbed. + +Above Pi-wi-ack the river runs for a mile at the bottom of a granite +cradle, sloping upward from it on each side at an angle of about +forty-five degrees, in great tabular masses slippery as ice, without a +crevice in them for thirty yards at a stretch where even the scraggiest +_manzanita_ may catch hold and grow. This tilted formation, broken here +and there by spots of scanty alluvium and stunted pines, continues +upward till it intersects the posterior cone of the South Dome on one +side and a colossal castellated precipice on the other,--creating thus +the very typical landscape of sublime desolation. The shining barrenness +of these rocks, and the utter nakedness of that vast glittering dome +which hollows the heavens beyond them, cannot be conveyed by any +metaphor to a reader knowing only the wood-crowned slopes of the +Alleghany chain. + +Climbing between the stunted pines and giant blocks along the stream's +immediate margin,--getting glimpses here and there of the snowy fretwork +of churned water which laced the higher rocks, and the black whirls +which spun in the deep pits of the roaring bed beneath us,--we came at +last to the base of "Yo-wi-ye," or Nevada Fall. + +This is the most voluminous, and next to Pi-wi-ack, perhaps, the most +beautiful of the Yo-Semite cataracts. Its beauty is partly owing to the +surrounding rugged grandeur which contrasts it, partly to its great +height (eight hundred feet) and surpassing volume, but mainly to its +exquisite and unusual shape. It falls from a precipice the highest +portion of whose face is as smoothly perpendicular as the wall overleapt +by Pi-wi-ack; but invisibly beneath its snowy flood a ledge slants +sideways from the cliff about a hundred feet below the crown of the +fall, and at an angle of about thirty degrees from the plumb-line. Over +this ledge the water is deflected upon one side and spread like a +half-open fan to the width of nearly two hundred feet. + +At the base of Yo-wi-ye we seem standing in a _cul-de-sac_ of Nature's +grandest labyrinth. Look where we will, impregnable battlements hem us +in. We gaze at the sky from the bottom of a savage granite _barathrum_, +whence there is no escape but return through the chinks and over the +crags of an Old-World convulsion. We are at the end of the stupendous +series of Yo-Semite _effects_; eight hundred feet above us, could we +climb there, we should find the silent causes of power. There lie the +broad, still pools that hold the reserved affluence of the snow-peaks; +thence might we see, glittering like diamond lances in the sun, the +eternal snow-peaks themselves. But these would still be as far above us +as we stood below Yo-wi-ye on the lowest valley-bottom whence we came. +Even from Inspiration Point, where our trail first struck the +battlement, we could see far beyond the Valley to the rising sun, +towering mightily above Tis-sa-ack herself, the everlasting +snow-forehead of Castle Rock, his crown's serrated edge cutting the sky +at the topmost height of the Sierra. We had spoken of reaching him,--of +holding converse with the King of all the Giants. This whole weary way +have we toiled since then,--and we know better now. Have we endured all +these pains only to learn still deeper Life's saddest lesson,--"Climb +forever, and there is still an Inaccessible"? + +Wetting our faces with the melted treasure of Nature's topmost +treasure-house, Yo-wi-ye answers us ere we turn back from the +Yo-Semite's last precipice toward the haunts of men:-- + +"Ye who cannot go to the Highest, lo, the Highest comes down to you!" + + + + +HOUSE AND HOME PAPERS. + +BY CHRISTOPHER CROWFIELD. + + +VI. + +"My dear Chris," said my wife, "isn't it time to be writing the next +'House and Home Paper'?" + +I was lying back in my study-chair, with my heels luxuriously propped on +an ottoman, reading for the two-hundredth time Hawthorne's "Mosses from +an Old Manse," or his "Twice-Told Tales," I forget which,--I only know +that these books constitute my cloud-land, where I love to sail away in +dreamy quietude, forgetting the war, the price of coal and flour, the +rates of exchange, and the rise and fall of gold. What do all these +things matter, as seen from those enchanted gardens in Padua where the +weird Rappaccini tends his enchanted plants, and his gorgeous daughter +fills us with the light and magic of her presence, and saddens us with +the shadowy allegoric mystery of her preternatural destiny? But my wife +represents the positive forces of time, place, and number in our family, +and, having also a chronological head, she knows the day of the month, +and therefore gently reminded me that by inevitable dates the time drew +near for preparing my--which is it now, May or June number? + +"Well, my dear, you are right," I said, as by an exertion I came +head-uppermost, and laid down the fascinating volume. "Let me see, what +was I to write about?" + +"Why, you remember you were to answer that letter from the lady who does +her own work." + +"Enough!" said I, seizing the pen with alacrity; "you have hit the exact +phrase:-- + +"'The _lady_ who _does her own work_.'" + + * * * * * + +America is the only country where such a title is possible,--the only +country where there is a class of women who may be described as _ladies_ +who do their own work. By a lady we mean a woman of education, +cultivation, and refinement, of liberal tastes and ideas, who, without +any very material additions or changes, would be recognized as a lady in +any circle of the Old World or the New. + +What I have said is, that the existence of such a class is a fact +peculiar to American society, a clear, plain result of the new +principles involved in the doctrine of universal equality. + +When the colonists first came to this country, of however mixed +ingredients their ranks might have been composed, and however imbued +with the spirit of feudal and aristocratic ideas, the discipline of the +wilderness soon brought them to a democratic level; the gentleman felled +the wood for his log-cabin side by side with the ploughman, and thews +and sinews rose in the market. "A man was deemed honorable in proportion +as he lifted his hand upon the high trees of the forest." So in the +interior domestic circle. Mistress and maid, living in a log-cabin +together, became companions, and sometimes the maid, as the more +accomplished and stronger, took precedence of the mistress. It became +natural and unavoidable that children should begin to work as early as +they were capable of it. The result was a generation of intelligent +people brought up to labor from necessity, but turning on the problem of +labor the acuteness of a disciplined brain. The mistress, outdone in +sinews and muscles by her maid, kept her superiority by skill and +contrivance. If she could not lift a pail of water, she could invent +methods which made lifting the pail unnecessary,--if she could not take +a hundred steps without weariness, she could make twenty answer the +purpose of a hundred. + +Slavery, it is true, was to some extent introduced into New England, but +it never suited the genius of the people, never struck deep root, or +spread so as to choke the good seed of self-helpfulness. Many were +opposed to it from conscientious principle,--many from far-sighted +thrift, and from a love of thoroughness and well-doing which despised +the rude, unskilled work of barbarians. People, having once felt the +thorough neatness and beauty of execution which came of free, educated, +and thoughtful labor, could not tolerate the clumsiness of slavery. Thus +it came to pass that for many years the rural population of New England, +as a general rule, did their own work, both out doors and in. If there +were a black man or black woman or bound girl, they were emphatically +only the _helps_, following humbly the steps of master and mistress, and +used by them as instruments of lightening certain portions of their +toil. The master and mistress with their children were the head workers. + +Great merriment has been excited in the Old Country, because years ago +the first English travellers found that the class of persons by them +denominated servants were in America denominated _help_ or helpers. But +the term was the very best exponent of the state of society. There were +few servants, in the European sense of the word; there was a society of +educated workers, where all were practically equal, and where, if there +was a deficiency in one family and an excess in another, a _helper_, not +a servant, was hired. Mrs. Browne, who has six sons and no daughters, +enters into agreement with Mrs. Jones, who has six daughters and no +sons. She borrows a daughter, and pays her good wages to help in her +domestic toil, and sends a son to help the labors of Mr. Jones. These +two young people go into the families in which they are to be employed +in all respects as equals and companions, and so the work of the +community is equalized. Hence arose, and for many years continued, a +state of society more nearly solving than any other ever did the problem +of combining the highest culture of the mind with the highest culture of +the muscles and the physical faculties. + +Then were to be seen families of daughters, handsome, strong females, +rising each day to their in-door work with cheerful alertness,--one to +sweep the room, another to make the fire, while a third prepared the +breakfast for the father and brothers who were going out to manly labor; +and they chatted meanwhile of books, studies, embroidery, discussed the +last new poem, or some historical topic started by graver reading, or +perhaps a rural ball that was to come off the next week. They spun with +the book tied to the distaff; they wove; they did all manner of fine +needle-work; they made lace, painted flowers, and, in short, in the +boundless consciousness of activity, invention, and perfect health, set +themselves to any work they had ever read or thought of. A bride in +those days was married with sheets and table-cloths of her own weaving, +with counterpanes and toilet-covers wrought in divers embroidery by her +own and her sisters' hands. The amount of fancy-work done in our days by +girls who have nothing else to do will not equal what was done by these, +who performed besides, among them, the whole work of the family. + +For many years these habits of life characterized the majority of our +rural towns. They still exist among a class respectable in numbers and +position, though perhaps not as happy in perfect self-satisfaction and a +conviction of the dignity and desirableness of its lot as in former +days. Human nature is above all things--lazy. Every one confesses in the +abstract that exertion which brings out all the powers of body and mind +is the best thing for us all; but practically most people do all they +can to get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than +circumstances drive him to do. Even I would not write this article, were +not the publication-day hard on my heels. I should read Hawthorne and +Emerson and Holmes, and dream in my arm-chair, and project in the clouds +those lovely unwritten stories that curl and veer and change like +mist-wreaths in the sun. So, also, however dignified, however +invigorating, however really desirable are habits of life involving +daily physical toil, there is a constant evil demon at every one's +elbow, seducing him to evade it, or to bear its weight with sullen, +discontented murmurs. + +I will venture to say that there are at least, to speak very moderately, +a hundred houses where these humble lines will be read and discussed, +where there are no servants except the ladies of the household. I will +venture to say, also, that these households, many of them, are not +inferior in the air of cultivation and refined elegance to many which +are conducted by the ministration of domestics. I will venture to +assert, furthermore, that these same ladies who live thus find quite as +much time for reading, letter-writing, drawing, embroidery, and +fancy-work, as the women of families otherwise arranged. I am quite +certain that they would be found on an average to be in the enjoyment of +better health, and more of that sense of capability and vitality which +gives one confidence in one's ability to look into life and meet it with +cheerful courage, than three-quarters of the women who keep +servants,--and that on the whole their domestic establishment is +regulated more exactly to their mind, their food prepared and served +more to their taste. And yet, with all this, I will _not_ venture to +assert that they are satisfied with this way of living, and that they +would not change it forthwith, if they could. They have a secret feeling +all the while that they are being abused, that they are working harder +than they ought to, and that women who live in their houses like +boarders, who have only to speak and it is done, are the truly enviable +ones. One after another of their associates, as opportunity offers and +means increase, desert the ranks, and commit their domestic affairs to +the hands of hired servants. Self-respect takes the alarm. Is it +altogether genteel to live as we do? To be sure, we are accustomed to +it; we have it all systematized and arranged; the work of our own hands +suits us better than any we can hire; in fact, when we do hire, we are +discontented and uncomfortable,--for who will do for us what we will do +for ourselves? But when we have company! there's the rub, to get out all +our best things and put them back,--to cook the meals and wash the +dishes ingloriously,--and to make all appear as if we didn't do it, and +had servants like other people. + +There, after all, is the rub. A want of hardy self-belief and +self-respect,--an unwillingness to face with dignity the actual facts +and necessities of our situation in life,--this, after all, is the worst +and most dangerous feature of the case. It is the same sort of pride +which makes Smilax think he must hire a waiter in white gloves, and get +up a circuitous dinner-party on English principles, to entertain a +friend from England. Because the friend in England lives in such and +such a style, he must make believe for a day that he lives so too, when +in fact it is a whirlwind in his domestic establishment equal to a +removal or a fire, and threatens the total extinction of Mrs. Smilax. +Now there are two principles of hospitality that people are very apt to +overlook. One is, that their guests like to be made at home, and treated +with confidence; and another is, that people are always interested in +the details of a way of life that is new to them. The Englishman comes +to America as weary of his old, easy, family-coach life as you can be of +yours; he wants to see something new under the sun,--something American; +and forthwith we all bestir ourselves to give him something as near as +we can fancy exactly like what he is already tired of. So city-people +come to the country, not to sit in the best parlor, and to see the +nearest imitation of city-life, but to lie on the hay-mow, to swing in +the barn, to form intimacy with the pigs, chickens, and ducks, and to +eat baked potatoes exactly on the critical moment when they are done, +from the oven of the cooking-stove,--and we remark, _en passant_, that +nobody has ever truly eaten a baked potato, unless he has seized it at +that precise and fortunate moment. + +I fancy you now, my friends, whom I have in my eye. You are three happy +women together. You are all so well that you know not how it feels to be +sick. You are used to early rising, and would not lie in bed, if you +could. Long years of practice have made you familiar with the shortest, +neatest, most expeditious method of doing every household office, so +that really for the greater part of the time in your house there seems +to a looker-on to be nothing to do. You rise in the morning and despatch +your husband, father, and brothers to the farm or wood-lot; you go +sociably about chatting with each other, while you skim the milk, make +the butter, turn the cheeses. The forenoon is long; it's ten to one that +all the so-called morning work is over, and you have leisure for an +hour's sewing or reading before it is time to start the +dinner-preparations. By two o'clock your house-work is done, and you +have the long afternoon for books, needle-work, or drawing,--for perhaps +there is among you one with a gift at her pencil. Perhaps one of you +reads aloud while the others sew, and you manage in that way to keep up +with a great deal of reading. I see on your book-shelves Prescott, +Macaulay, Irving, besides the lighter fry of poems and novels, and, if I +mistake not, the friendly covers of the "Atlantic." When you have +company, you invite Mrs. Smith or Brown or Jones to tea; you have no +trouble; they come early, with their knitting or sewing; your particular +crony sits with you by your polished stove while you watch the baking of +those light biscuits and tea-rusks for which you are so famous, and Mrs. +Somebody-else chats with your sister, who is spreading the table with +your best china in the best room. When tea is over, there is plenty of +volunteering to help you wash your pretty India teacups, and get them +back into the cupboard. There is no special fatigue or exertion in all +this, though you have taken down the best things and put them back, +because you have done all without anxiety or effort, among those who +would do precisely the same, if you were their visitors. + +But now comes down pretty Mrs. Simmons and her pretty daughter to spend +a week with you, and forthwith you are troubled. Your youngest, Fanny, +visited them in New York last fall, and tells you of their cook and +chambermaid, and the servant in white gloves that waits on table. You +say in your soul, "What shall we do? they never can be contented to live +as we do; how shall we manage?" And now you long for servants. + +This is the very time that you should know that Mrs. Simmons is tired to +death of her fine establishment, and weighed down with the task of +keeping the peace among her servants. She is a quiet soul, dearly loving +her ease, and hating strife; and yet last week she had five quarrels to +settle between her invaluable cook and the other members of her staff, +because invaluable cook, on the strength of knowing how to get up +state-dinners and to manage all sorts of mysteries which her mistress +knows nothing about, asserts the usual right of spoiled favorites to +insult all her neighbors with impunity, and rule with a rod of iron over +the whole house. Anything that is not in the least like her own home and +ways of living will be a blessed relief and change to Mrs. Simmons. Your +clean, quiet house, your delicate cookery, your cheerful morning tasks, +if you will let her follow you about, and sit and talk with you while +you are at your work, will all seem a pleasant contrast to her own life. +Of course, if it came to the case of offering to change lots in life, +she would not do it; but very likely she _thinks_ she would, and sighs +over and pities herself, and thinks sentimentally how fortunate you are, +how snugly and securely you live, and wishes she were as untrammelled +and independent as you. And she is more than half right; for, with her +helpless habits, her utter ignorance of the simplest facts concerning +the reciprocal relations of milk, eggs, butter, saleratus, soda, and +yeast, she is completely the victim and slave of the person she pretends +to rule. + +Only imagine some of the frequent scenes and rehearsals in her family. +After many trials, she at last engages a seamstress who promises to +prove a perfect treasure,--neat, dapper, nimble, skilful, and spirited. +The very soul of Mrs. Simmons rejoices in heaven. Illusive bliss! The +new-comer proves to be no favorite with Madam Cook, and the domestic +fates evolve the catastrophe, as follows. First, low murmur of distant +thunder in the kitchen; then a day or two of sulky silence, in which the +atmosphere seems heavy with an approaching storm. At last comes the +climax. The parlor-door flies open during breakfast. Enter seamstress, +in tears, followed by Mrs. Cook with a face swollen and red with wrath, +who tersely introduces the subject-matter of the drama in a voice +trembling with rage. + +"Would you be plased, Ma'am, to suit yersilf with another cook? Me week +will be up next Tuesday, and I want to be going." + +"Why, Bridget, what's the matter?" + +"Matter enough, Ma'am! I niver could live with them Cork girls in a +house, nor I won't; them as likes the Cork girls is welcome for all me; +but it's not for the likes of me to live with them, and she been in the +kitchen a-upsettin' of me gravies with her flat-irons and things." + +Here bursts in the seamstress with a whirlwind of denial, and the +altercation wages fast and furious, and poor, little, delicate Mrs. +Simmons stands like a kitten in a thunder-storm in the midst of a +regular Irish row. + +Cook, of course, is sure of her victory. She knows that a great dinner +is to come off Wednesday, and that her mistress has not the smallest +idea how to manage it, and that, therefore, whatever happens, she must +be conciliated. + +Swelling with secret indignation at the tyrant, poor Mrs. Simmons +dismisses her seamstress with longing looks. She suited her mistress +exactly, but she didn't suit cook! + +Now, if Mrs. Simmons had been brought up in early life with the +experience that _you_ have, she would be mistress in her own house. She +would quietly say to Madam Cook, "If my family-arrangements do not suit +you, you can leave. I can see to the dinner myself." And she _could_ do +it. Her well-trained muscles would not break down under a little extra +work; her skill, adroitness, and perfect familiarity with everything +that is to be done would enable her at once to make cooks of any bright +girls of good capacity who might still be in her establishment; and, +above all, she would feel herself mistress in her own house. This is +what would come of an experience in doing her own work as you do. She +who can at once put her own trained hand to the machine in any spot +where a hand is needed never comes to be the slave of a coarse, vulgar +Irish-woman. + +So, also, in forming a judgment of what is to be expected of servants in +a given time, and what ought to be expected of a given amount of +provisions, poor Mrs. Simmons is absolutely at sea. If even for one six +months in her life she had been a practical cook, and had really had the +charge of the larder, she would not now be haunted, as she constantly +is, by an indefinite apprehension of an immense wastefulness, perhaps of +the disappearance of provisions through secret channels of relationship +and favoritism. She certainly could not be made to believe in the +absolute necessity of so many pounds of sugar, quarts of milk, and +dozens of eggs, not to mention spices and wine, as are daily required +for the accomplishment of Madam Cook's purposes. But though now she does +suspect and apprehend, she cannot speak with certainty. She cannot say, +"_I_ have made these things. I know exactly what they require. I have +done this and that myself, and know it can be done, and done well, in a +certain time." It is said that women who have been accustomed to doing +their own work become hard mistresses. They are certainly more sure of +the ground they stand on,--they are less open to imposition,--they can +speak and act in their own houses more as those "having authority," and +therefore are less afraid to exact what is justly their due, and less +willing to endure impertinence and unfaithfulness. Their general error +lies in expecting that any servant ever will do as well for them as they +will do for themselves, and that an untrained, undisciplined human being +ever _can_ do house-work, or any other work, with the neatness and +perfection that a person of trained intelligence can. It has been +remarked in our armies that the men of cultivation, though bred in +delicate and refined spheres, can bear up under the hardships of +camp-life better and longer than rough laborers. The reason is, that an +educated mind knows how to use and save its body, to work it and spare +it, as an uneducated mind cannot; and so the college-bred youth brings +himself safely through fatigues which kill the unreflective laborer. +Cultivated, intelligent women, who are brought up to do the work of +their own families, are labor-saving institutions. They make the head +save the wear of the muscles. By forethought, contrivance, system, and +arrangement, they lessen the amount to be done, and do it with less +expense of time and strength than others. The old New-England motto, +_Get your work done up in the forenoon_, applied to an amount of work +which would keep a common Irish servant toiling from daylight to sunset. + +A lady living in one of our obscure New-England towns, where there were +no servants to be hired, at last by sending to a distant city succeeded +in procuring a raw Irish maid-of-all-work, a creature of immense bone +and muscle, but of heavy, unawakened brain. In one fortnight she +established such a reign of Chaos and old Night in the kitchen and +through the house, that her mistress, a delicate woman, incumbered with +the care of young children, began seriously to think that she made more +work each day than she performed, and dismissed her. What was now to be +done? Fortunately, the daughter of a neighboring farmer was going to be +married in six months, and wanted a little ready money for her +_trousseau_. The lady was informed that Miss So-and-so would come to +her, not as a servant, but as hired "help." She was fain to accept any +help with gladness. Forthwith came into the family-circle a tall, +well-dressed young person, grave, unobtrusive, self-respecting, yet not +in the least presuming, who sat at the family-table and observed all its +decorums with the modest self-possession of a lady. The new-comer took a +survey of the labors of a family of ten members, including four or five +young children, and, looking, seemed at once to throw them into system, +matured her plans, arranged her hours of washing, ironing, baking, +cleaning, rose early, moved deftly, and in a single day the slatternly +and littered kitchen assumed that neat, orderly appearance that so often +strikes one in New-England farm-houses. The work seemed to be all gone. +Everything was nicely washed, brightened, put in place, and stayed in +place; the floors, when cleaned, remained clean; the work was always +done, and not doing; and every afternoon the young lady sat neatly +dressed in her own apartment, either quietly writing letters to her +betrothed, or sewing on her bridal outfit. Such is the result of +employing those who have been brought up to do their own work. That +tall, fine-looking girl, for aught we know, may yet be mistress of a +fine house on Fifth Avenue; and if she is, she will, we fear, prove +rather an exacting mistress to Irish Biddy and Bridget; but _she_ will +never be threatened by her cook and chambermaid, after the first one or +two have tried the experiment. + + * * * * * + +Having written thus far on my article, I laid it aside till evening, +when, as usual, I was saluted by the inquiry, "Has papa been writing +anything to-day?" and then followed loud petitions to hear it; and so I +read as far, reader, as you have. + +"Well, papa," said Jennie, "what are you meaning to make out there? Do +you really think it would be best for us all to try to go back to that +old style of living you describe? After all, you have shown only the +dark side of an establishment with servants, and the bright side of the +other way of living. Mamma does not have such trouble with her servants; +matters have always gone smoothly in our family; and if we are not such +wonderful girls as those you describe, yet we may make pretty good +housekeepers on the modern system, after all." + +"You don't know all the troubles your mamma has had in your day," said +my wife. "I have often, in the course of my family-history, seen the day +when I have heartily wished for the strength and ability to manage my +household matters as my grandmother of notable memory managed hers. But +I fear that those remarkable women of the olden times are like the +ancient painted glass,--the art of making them is lost; my mother was +less than her mother, and I am less than my mother." + +"And Marianne and I come out entirely at the little end of the horn," +said Jennie, laughing; "yet I wash the breakfast-cups and dust the +parlors, and have always fancied myself a notable housekeeper." + +"It is just as I told you," I said. "Human nature is always the same. +Nobody ever is or does more than circumstances force him to be and do. +Those remarkable women of old were made by circumstances. There were, +comparatively speaking, no servants to be had, and so children were +trained to habits of industry and mechanical adroitness from the cradle, +and every household process was reduced to the very minimum of labor. +Every step required in a process was counted, every movement calculated; +and she who took ten steps, when one would do, lost her reputation for +'faculty.' Certainly such an early drill was of use in developing the +health and the bodily powers, as well as in giving precision to the +practical mental faculties. All household economies were arranged with +equal niceness in those thoughtful minds. A trained housekeeper knew +just how many sticks of hickory of a certain size were required to heat +her oven, and how many of each different kind of wood. She knew by a +sort of intuition just what kinds of food would yield the most palatable +nutriment with the least outlay of accessories in cooking. She knew to a +minute the time when each article must go into and be withdrawn from her +oven; and if she could only lie in her chamber and direct, she could +guide an intelligent child through the processes with mathematical +certainty. It is impossible, however, that anything but early training +and long experience can produce these results, and it is earnestly to be +wished that the grandmothers of New England had only written down their +experiences for our children; they would have been a mine of maxims and +traditions, better than any other traditions of the elders which we know +of." + +"One thing I know," said Marianne,--"and that is, I wish I had been +brought up so, and knew all that I should, and had all the strength and +adroitness that those women had. I should not dread to begin +housekeeping, as I now do. I should feel myself independent. I should +feel that I knew how to direct my servants, and what it was reasonable +and proper to expect of them; and then, as you say, I shouldn't be +dependent on all their whims and caprices of temper. I dread those +household storms, of all things." + +Silently pondering these anxieties of the young expectant housekeeper, I +resumed my pen, and concluded my paper as follows. + + * * * * * + +In this country, our democratic institutions have removed the +superincumbent pressure which in the Old World confines the servants to +a regular orbit. They come here feeling that this is somehow a land of +liberty, and with very dim and confused notions of what liberty is. They +are for the most part the raw, untrained Irish peasantry, and the wonder +is, that, with all the unreasoning heats and prejudices of the Celtic +blood, all the necessary ignorance and rawness, there should be the +measure of comfort and success there is in our domestic arrangements. +But, so long as things are so, there will be constant changes and +interruptions in every domestic establishment, and constantly recurring +interregnums when the mistress must put her own hand to the work, +whether the hand be a trained or an untrained one. As matters now are, +the young housekeeper takes life at the hardest. She has very little +strength,--no experience to teach her how to save her strength. She +knows nothing experimentally of the simplest processes necessary to keep +her family comfortably fed and clothed; and she has a way of looking at +all these things which makes them particularly hard and distasteful to +her. She does not escape being obliged to do house-work at intervals, +but she does it in a weak, blundering, confused way, that makes it twice +as hard and disagreeable as it need be. + +Now what I have to say is, that, if every young woman learned to do +house-work and cultivated her practical faculties in early life, she +would, in the first place, be much more likely to keep her servants, +and, in the second place, if she lost them temporarily, would avoid all +that wear and tear of the nervous system which comes from constant +ill-success in those departments on which family health and temper +mainly depend. This is one of the peculiarities of our American life +which require a peculiar training. Why not face it sensibly? + +The second thing I have to say is, that our land is now full of +motorpathic institutions to which women are sent at great expense to +have hired operators stretch and exercise their inactive muscles. They +lie for hours to have their feet twigged, their arms flexed, and all the +different muscles of the body worked for them, because they are so +flaccid and torpid that the powers of life do not go on. Would it not be +quite as cheerful and less expensive a process, if young girls from +early life developed the muscles in sweeping, dusting, ironing, rubbing +furniture, and all the multiplied domestic processes which our +grandmothers knew of? A woman who did all these, and diversified the +intervals with spinning on the great and little wheel, never came to +need the gymnastics of Dio Lewis or of the Swedish motorpathist, which +really are a necessity now. Does it not seem poor economy to pay +servants for letting our muscles grow feeble, and then to pay operators +to exercise them for us? I will venture to say that our grandmothers in +a week went over every movement that any gymnast has invented, and went +over them to some productive purpose too. + +Lastly, my paper will not have been in vain, if those ladies who have +learned and practise the invaluable accomplishment of doing their own +work will know their own happiness and dignity, and properly value their +great acquisition, even though it may have been forced upon them by +circumstances. + + + + +SHAKSPEARE. + +APRIL 23, 1864. + + + "Who claims our Shakspeare from that realm unknown, + Beyond the storm-vexed islands of the deep, + Where Genoa's deckless caravels were blown? + Her twofold Saint's-day let our England keep; + Shall warring aliens share her holy task?" + The Old-World echoes ask. + + O land of Shakspeare! ours with all thy past, + Till these last years that make the sea so wide, + Think not the jar of battle's trumpet-blast + Has dulled our aching sense to joyous pride + In every noble word thy sons bequeathed + The air our fathers breathed! + + War-wasted, haggard, panting from the strife, + We turn to other days and far-off lands, + Live o'er in dreams the Poet's faded life, + Come with fresh lilies in our fevered hands + To wreathe his bust, and scatter purple flowers,-- + Not his the need, but ours! + + We call those poets who are first to mark + Through earth's dull mist the coming of the dawn,-- + Who see in twilight's gloom the first pale spark, + While others only note that day is gone; + For him the Lord of light the curtain rent + That veils the firmament. + + The greatest for its greatness is half known, + Stretching beyond our narrow quadrant-lines,-- + As in that world of Nature all outgrown + Where Calaveras lifts his awful pines, + And cast from Mariposa's mountain-wall + Nevada's cataracts fall. + + Yet heaven's remotest orb is partly ours, + Throbbing its radiance like a beating heart; + In the wide compass of angelic powers + The instinct of the blindworm has its part; + So in God's kingliest creature we behold + The flower our buds infold. + + With no vain praise we mock the stone-carved name + Stamped once on dust that moved with pulse and breath, + As thinking to enlarge that amplest fame + Whose undimmed glories gild the night of death: + We praise not star or sun; in these we see + Thee, Father, only Thee! + + Thy gifts are beauty, wisdom, power, and love: + We read, we reverence on this human soul,-- + Earth's clearest mirror of the light above,-- + Plain as the record on Thy prophet's scroll, + When o'er his page the effluent splendors poured, + Thine own, "Thus saith the Lord!" + + This player was a prophet from on high, + Thine own elected. Statesman, poet, sage, + For him Thy sovereign pleasure passed them by,-- + Sidney's fair youth, and Raleigh's ripened age, + Spenser's chaste soul, and his imperial mind + Who taught and shamed mankind. + + Therefore we bid our hearts' _Te Deum_ rise, + Nor fear to make Thy worship less divine, + And hear the shouted choral shake the skies, + Counting all glory, power, and wisdom Thine,-- + For Thy great gift Thy greater name adore, + And praise Thee evermore! + + In this dread hour of Nature's utmost need, + Thanks for these unstained drops of freshening dew! + Oh, while our martyrs fall, our heroes bleed, + Keep us to every sweet remembrance true, + Till from this blood-red sunset springs new-born + Our Nation's second morn! + + + + +HOW TO USE VICTORY. + + +The policy of the nation, since the war began, has been eminently the +Anglo-Saxon policy. That is to say, we have not adapted our actions to +any preconceived theory, nor to any central idea. From the President +downward, every one has done as well as he could in every single day, +doubtful, and perhaps indifferent, as to what he should do the next day. +This is the method dear to the Anglo-Saxon mind. The English writers +acknowledge this; they call it the "practical system," and make an +especial boast that it is the method of their theology, their +philosophy, their physical science, their manufactures, and their trade. +In the language of philosophy, it directs us "to do the duty that comes +next us"; in a figure drawn from the card-table, it bids us "follow our +hand." The only branch of the Keltic race which adopts it expresses it +in the warlike direction, "When you see a head, hit it." + +We have no objection to make to this so-called practical system in the +present case, if it only be broadly and generously adopted. If it reduce +us to a war of posts, to hand-to-mouth finance, and to that wretched +bureau-administration which thinks the day's work is done when the day's +letters have been opened, docketed, and answered, it becomes, it is +true, a very unpractical system, and soon reduces a great state to be a +very little one. But if the men who direct any country will, in good +faith, enlarge their view every day, from their impressions of yesterday +to the new realities of to-day,--if they will rise at once to the new +demands of to-day, and meet those demands under the new light of +to-day,--all the better is it, undoubtedly, if they are not hampered by +traditionary theories, if they are even indifferent as to the +consistency of their record, and are, thus, as able as they are willing +to work out God's present will with all their power. For it must be that +the present light of noonday will guide us better at noonday than any +prophecies which we could make at midnight or at dawn. + +The country, at this moment, demands this broad and generous use of its +great present advantages. In three years of sacrifice we have won +extraordinary victories. We have driven back the beach-line of rebellion +so that its territory is now two islands, both together of not half the +size of the continent which it boasted when it began. We have seen such +demonstrations of loyalty and the love of liberty that we dare say that +this is to be one free nation, as we never dared say it before the war +began. We are on the edge, as we firmly believe, of yet greater +victories, both in the field and in the conscience of the nation. The +especial demand, then, made on our statesmen, and on that intelligent +people which, as it appears, leads the statesmen, instead of being led +by them, is, "How shall we use our victories?" We have no longer the +right to say that the difficult questions will settle themselves. We +must not say that Providence will take care of them. We must not say +that we are trying experiments. The time for all this has gone by. We +have won victories. We are going to win more. We must show we know how +to use them. + +As our armies advance, for instance, very considerable regions of +territory come, for the time, under the military government of the +United States. If we painted a map of the country, giving to the Loyal +States each its individual chosen color, and to the Rebel States their +favorite Red or Black, we should find that the latter were surrounded by +a strip of that circumambient and eternal Blue which indicates the love +and the strength of the National Government. The strip is here broad, +and there narrow. It is broad in Tennessee, Arkansas, and Louisiana. It +stretches up in a narrow line along the Sea Islands and the Atlantic +coast. What do we mean to do with this strip, while it is in the special +charge of the nation? Do we mean to leave it to the chapter of +accidents, as we have done? A few charitable organizations have kept the +Sea Islands along, so that they are a range of flourishing plantations, +as they used to be. A masterly inactivity, on the other hand, leaves the +northern counties of Virginia, this summer, within the very sight of the +Capitol, to be the desert and disgrace which they were when they were +the scenes of actual war. A handful of banditti rides through them when +it chooses, and even insults the communications of our largest army. The +people of that State are permitted to point at this desolation, and to +say that such are the consequences of Federal victories. For another +instance, take the "Four-Million question." These four million negroes, +from whose position the war has sprung, are now almost all set free, in +law. A very large number of them--possibly a quarter part of them--are +free in fact. One hundred and thirty thousand of them are in the +national army. With regard to these men the question is not, "What are +you going to do with them when the war is done?" but, "What will you do +with them to-day and to-morrow?" Your duty is to use victory in the +moment of victory. You are not to wait for its last ramification before +you lead in peace and plenty, which ought to follow close in its first +footsteps. + +To an observing and sensitive nation it seems as if all these questions, +and many others like them, were not yet fully regarded. Yet they are now +the questions of the hour, because they are a part of the great central +question, "How will you break down the armed power of the Rebel States?" +To maintain the conquered belt between us and our "wayward sisters" as a +land of plenty, and not as a desert,--to establish on system the blacks +whose masters desert them, or who take refuge within our lines,--and +also to maintain in that border-strip a resident peasantry, armed and +loyal,--these are not matters of sentiment, which may be postponed to a +more convenient season, but they are essential to the stiff, steady, and +successful prosecution of our campaigns. It is not, therefore, simply +for charity Boards of Education to discuss such subjects. It is for the +Government to determine its policy, and for the people, who make that +Government, to compel it so to determine. The Government may not shake +off questions of confiscated lands, pay of negro troops, superintendence +of fugitives, and the like, as if they were the unimportant details of a +halcyon future. Because this is the moment of impending victory, because +that victory should be used on the instant, the Government is bound to +attend to such provisions now. It is said, that, when General McClellan +landed below Yorktown, now two years ago, the Washington Post-Office had +made the complete arrangements for resuming the mail-service to +Richmond. Undoubtedly the Post-Office Department was right in such +foresight. At the present moment, it is equally right for the Government +to be prepared for the immediate use of the victories for which, as we +write, we are all hoping. + +The experiments which we have had to try, in the care and treatment of +liberated blacks, have been tried under very different conditions. When +the masters on the Sea Islands escaped from their slaves, leaving but +one white man behind them, in the midst of fifteen thousand negroes, +those negroes were, in general, in their old familiar homes. They had, +indeed, trusted themselves to the tender mercies of the "Yankees" +because they would not abandon home. The islands on which they lived +were easily protected, and, thanks to the generous foresight of those +who early had the charge of them, a body of humane and intelligent +superintendents soon appeared, to watch over all their interests. In the +District of Columbia, on the other hand, the blacks whom the war first +liberated had themselves fled from their masters. They found themselves +in cities where every condition of life was different from their old +home. It was hardly to be expected that in one of these cases the +results should be as cheerful or as favorable as in the other. Nor was +it to be supposed that the policy to be pursued, in two such cases, +should be in outward form the same. + +But the country has, on the whole, in the various different conditions +of these questions, had the advantage of great administrative ability. +General Butler, General Banks, and General Saxton are three men who may +well be satisfied with their military record, if it shall bear the test +of time as well as their administrative successes in this department bid +fair to do. We can be reconciled, in a measure, to gross failure and +want of system in other places, when we observe the successes which have +been wrought out for the blacks, in different ways, under the policy of +these three statesmen. For we believe that in that policy the principles +are to be found by which the Government ought at once to direct all its +policy in the use of its victories. We believe those principles are most +adequately stated in General Butler's General Order No. 46, issued at +Fort Monroe on the fifth of December last. For General Banks has had his +hands tied, from the beginning, by the unfortunate exemption from the +Emancipation Proclamation of the first two districts in Louisiana. +Considering the difficulties by which he was thus entangled, we have +never seen but he used to the best his opportunities. General Saxton's +island-district has been so small, and in a measure so peculiar, that it +may be urged that the result learned there would not be applicable on +the mainland, on a large scale. But General Butler has had all the +negroes of the sea-board of Virginia and North Carolina to look after. +He has given us a census of them,--and we have already official returns +of their _status_. There seems no reason why what has been done there +may not be done anywhere. + +In General Butler's department, there were, in the beginning of April, +sixty-eight thousand eight hundred and forty-seven negroes. Of these, +eight thousand three hundred and forty-four were soldiers, who had +voluntarily enlisted into the service of the United States. These men +enlisted with no bounty but what the General so well named as the "great +boon awarded to each of them, the result of the war,--Freedom for +himself and his race forever." They enlisted, knowing that at that time +the Government promised them but ten dollars a month. In view of these +facts, we consider the proportion of soldiers, nearly one in eight, +extraordinary,--though we are aware that the number includes many who +had not lived in those counties, who came into our lines with the +purpose of enlisting. These simple figures involve the first feature of +the true policy in the "Four-Million question." The war offers the +negroes this priceless bounty. Let them fight for it. Let us enlist +them, to the last man we can persuade to serve. + +"If you do that," says Brazen-Face, "you have left on your hands a horde +of starving imbeciles, women, and orphans, to support, from whom you +have cruelly separated their able-bodied men." No, Brazen-Face, we have +no such thing. In the month of March the Government had to supply +rations in the district we have named to only seven thousand eight +hundred and fifty persons who were members of the families of these +soldiers,--the cost being about one dollar a month for each of them. Now +the State of Massachusetts, dear Brazen-Face, supplies "State-aid" to +the families of its soldiers; and for this support, in this very city of +yours, it pays on the average five times as much in proportion as the +United States has to pay for the families of these colored soldiers. +Nay, you may even take all the persons relieved by Government in General +Butler's district,--the number is sixteen thousand seven hundred and +sixteen,--count them all as the families of soldiers, which not one-half +of them are, and the whole support which they all receive from +Government is not half as much as the families of the same number of +soldiers are costing the State of Massachusetts. So much for the expense +of this system. There is no money-bounty, and the "family-aid" is but +one-fifth of that we pay in the case of our own brothers. The figures in +General Saxton's district are as gratifying. We have not the Louisiana +statistics at hand. And we have not learned that anybody has attempted +any statistics in the District of Columbia, or on the Mississippi River. +But this illustration, in two districts where the enlistment of colored +troops has been pushed to the very edge of its development, is enough to +make out another point in the policy of victory, which is, that the +colored soldier is the cheapest soldier whom we have in our lines, +though we pay him, as of course we should do, full pay. + +How is this cheapness of administration gained? The answer is in the +second great principle which belongs to the policy of using our +victories. Change the homes of the people as little as possible. The +families of negroes in the Virginia district are put upon separate farms +as far as possible,--on land, and for crops, as nearly as possible, the +same as they were used to. These people are conservative. They are fond +of home. They are used to work; and they can take care of themselves. +Every inducement is given them, therefore, to establish themselves. +Farms of eight or ten acres each from abandoned property are allotted +them. Where the Government employs any of them, it employs them only at +the same rate as the soldier is paid,--so that, if the negro can earn +more than that, he does so, and is urged, as well as permitted to do +so. He is not bound to the soil, except by merely temporary agreement. +What follows is that he uses the gift of freedom to his own best +advantage. "Political freedom," says the philosophical General, "rightly +defined, is liberty to work." The negroes in his command show that they +understand the definition. And this is the reason why, as we have +explained, the "family-relief" costs but one-fifth what it does here in +Boston. + +"But," says Grunnio, at this point, "how will you protect your ten-acre +farms from invidious neighbors, from wandering guerrillas?" We will +advise them, dear grumbler, to protect themselves. That is one of the +responsibilities which freemen have to take as the price of freedom. In +the department of Norfolk, where seventeen thousand blacks are +supporting themselves on scattered farms, we believe not a pig has been +stolen nor a fence broken down on their little plantations by semi-loyal +neighbors, who had, perhaps, none too much sympathy, at the first, with +their prosperity. These amiable neighbors were taught, from the first, +that the rights of the colored farmers were just the same as their own, +and that they would be very apt to retaliate in kind for injuries. Of +such a system one result is that no guerrilla-warfare has yet been known +in the counties of Virginia where such a peasantry is establishing +itself. It is near our posts, it is true,--not nearer, however, than +some of the regions where Mosby has won his laurels. We believe that +this system deserves to be pressed much farther. We can see that the +farmers on such farms may have to be supplied in part with arms for +their defence. They may have to be taught to use them. Without providing +depots of supplies for an enemy, however, we believe there might be a +regular system of establishing the negro in his own home, on or near the +plantation where he was born, which would give us from the beginning the +advantages of a settled country, instead of a desert in the regions in +the rear of our lines. + +These three suggestions are enough to determine a general policy which +shall give us, in all instances, the immediate use of our victories. Let +us enlist all the able-bodied men we can from the negroes. Let us +establish the rest as near their old homes as we can,--not in +poor-houses or phalansteries, but on their own farms. Let us appoint for +each proper district a small staff of officers sufficient to see that +their rights are respected by their neighbors, and that they have means +to defend themselves against reckless or unorganized aggression. There +seems to be no need of sending them as fugitives to our rear. There +seems to be no need of leaving the country we pass a desert. There seems +to be no need of waiting a year or two before we find for them their +places. God has found for them their places. Let them stay where they +were born. We have made them freemen. Let them understand that they must +maintain their freedom. + +More simply stated, such a policy amounts merely to this: "Treat them as +you would treat white people." + +"What would you do with the blacks?" said a Commission of Inquiry to an +intelligent jurist who had made some very brilliant decisions at New +Orleans. + +"I would not do anything with them," was his very happy and suggestive +reply. + +He would let them alone. If we could free ourselves of the notion that +we must huddle them together, or that we must carry them to some strange +land,--in short, that they have no rights of home and fireside,--we +should find that we had a much smaller problem to deal with. Keep them +where you find them, unless they will go on and fight with you. Whether +they go or stay, let them understand that they are your friends and you +are theirs, and that they must defend themselves, if they expect you to +defend them. + +The education and the civilization will follow. "The church and the +school," as John Adams says, "belong with the town and the militia." The +statistics of General Butler's department begin to show that a larger +proportion of blacks are at school there than of whites. As we write +these words, we receive General Banks's Order No. 38, issued March 22, +providing for a board of education, and a tax upon property to establish +schools for black and for white children. We have no fears that such +results will be slow, if the enfranchised peasantry, one million or four +million, have the right to work on their own land, or to accept the +highest wage that offers,--if they find they are not arbitrarily removed +from their old homes,--and if the protection of those homes is, in the +first instance, intrusted to themselves. + +These are the first-fruits of freedom for them. For us they are the +legitimate use of victory. It only remains that we shall mildly, but +firmly, instruct all officers of the Government that it is time for some +policy to be adopted which shall involve such uses of victory. The +country will be encouraged, the moment it sees that the freedmen are +finding their proper places in the new civilization. The country expects +its rulers not to wait for chapters of accidents or for volunteer boards +to work out such policy, but themselves to provide the system of +administration, and the intelligent men who shall promptly and skilfully +avail themselves of every victory. + + + + +REVIEWS AND LITERARY NOTICES. + + +_History of the Romans under the Empire._ By CHARLES MERIVALE, +B. D., late Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. From the Fourth +London Edition. With a Copious Analytical Index. New York: D. Appleton & +Co. 8vo. Vols. I. & II. + +People of the last century had a very easy time with their Roman +history, and any gentleman could pick up enough of it "in course of his +morning's reading" to answer the demands of a lifetime. Men read and +believed. They had no more doubt of the existence of Romulus and Remus +than of the existence of Fairfax and Cromwell. As to the story of those +dropped children being nursed by a she-wolf, had it not been established +that wolves did sometimes suckle humanity's young? and why should it be +supposed that no lupine nursery had ever existed at the foot of the +Palatine Hill? After swallowing the wolf-story, everything else was +easy; and the history of the Roman Kings was as gravely received as the +history of the Roman Emperors. The Brutus who upset the Tarquins was as +much an historical character as the Brutus who assassinated Caesar and +killed himself. Tullia had lived and sinned, just like Messallina. The +Horatii were of flesh and blood, like the Triumvirs. So was it with +regard to the Empire. The same short work that was made with Regal Rome +and the early Republican period was applied to the Imperial age. Julius +Caesar was the destroyer of Roman liberty, and Pompeius was the unlucky +champion of his country's constitution. With few exceptions, the +Emperors were the greatest moral monsters that ever had lived and +reigned. It is true that two or three critical writers had so handled +historical subjects as to create some doubts as to the exact correctness +of the popular view of Roman history; but those doubts were monopolized +by a few scholars, and by no means tended to shake the faith which even +the educated classes had in the vulgar view of the actions of the mighty +conquering race of antiquity. + +But all has been changed. For half a century, learned men have been +busily employed in pulling down the edifice of Roman history, until they +have unsettled everybody's faith in that history. No one now pretends, +seriously, to believe anything that is told of the Romans farther back +than the time of Pyrrhus. Clouds and darkness rest over the earlier +centuries, and defy penetration. What Sir Thomas Browne says of Egypt is +not inapplicable to early Rome. History mumbleth something to the +inquirer, "but what it is he heareth not." Not even the story of Curtius +now finds believers. He must have been a contractor, who made an +enormous fortune at the time of the secession of the plebs, and ruined +himself by the operation. So far as relates to early Roman history, want +of faith is very natural; for what documents have we to go upon in +making up an opinion concerning it? None to speak of. But it is strange, +at the first thought, that there should be any difficulty in making up a +judgment concerning the history of the last century or two of the +Republic, and of the Imperial period. Of those times much that was then +written still survives, and many of the works that were familiar to the +Romans are even more familiar to the moderns. Yet there is a wide +difference of sentiment as to the character of the Roman Revolution, and +the objects and the actions of the eminent men who figured in that +Revolution are yet in dispute; and the contention is almost as fierce, +at times, as it was in the days of Pharsalia and Philippi. There are +Pompeians and Caesarians now, as there were nineteen centuries ago, only +that the pen with them is indeed mightier than the sword. Caesar's case +has been reviewed, and the current of opinion is now setting strongly in +his favor. Instead of being looked upon as a mere vulgar usurper, who +differed from other usurpers only in having a greater stage, and talents +proportioned to that stage, he is held up as the man of his times, and +as the only man who could fulfil the demands of the crisis that existed +after the death of Sulla. According to Mr. Merivale, who is a very +moderate Caesarian, Caesar was "the true captain and lawgiver and prophet +of the age" in which he lived. When such an assertion can be made by an +English gentleman of well-balanced mind, we may form some idea of the +intensity of that Caesarism which prevails in fiercer minds, and which is +intended to have an effect on contemporary rule. For the controversy +which exists relative to the merits of Romans "dead, and turned to +clay," is not merely critical and scholastic, but is enlivened by its +direct bearing upon living men and contending parties. Caesarism means +Napoleonism. The Bonaparte family is the Julian family of to-day. +Napoleon I. stood for the great Julius, and Napoleon III. is the modern +(and very Gallic) Caesar Augustus, the avenger of his ill-used uncle, and +the crusher of the Junii and the Crassi, and all the rest of the +aristocrats, who overthrew him, and caused his early death. It is not +necessary to point out the utter absurdity of this attempt to justify +modern despotism by referring to the action of men who lived and acted +in the greatest of ancient revolutions; and those men who admire Julius +Caesar, but who are not disposed to see in his conduct a justification of +the conduct of living men, object to the French Imperial view of his +career. Mommsen, whose admiration of Caesar is as ardent as his knowledge +of Roman history is great, speaks with well-deserved scorn of the +efforts that are made to defend contemporary usurpation by +misrepresentation of the history of antiquity. One of his remarks is +curious, read in connection with that history which daily appears in our +journals. Writing before our civil war began, he declared, that, if ever +the slaveholding aristocracy of the Southern States of America should +bring matters to such a pass as their counterparts in the Rome of Sulla, +Caesarism would be pronounced legitimate there also by the spirit of +history,--an observation that derived new interest from the report that +General Lee was to be made Dictator of the Confederacy, and Mr. Davis +allowed to go into that retirement which is so much admired and so +little sought by all politicians. Mommsen, after the remark above +quoted, proceeds to say, that, whenever Caesarism "appears under other +social conditions, it is at once a usurpation and a caricature. History, +however, will not consent to curtail the honor due to the true Caesar, +because her decision, in the presence of false Caesars, may give occasion +to simplicity to play the fool and to villany to play the rogue. She, +too, is a Bible, and if she can as little prevent herself from being +misunderstood by the fool and quoted by the Devil, she ought as little +to be prejudiced by either." Strong words, but very natural as coming +from a learned German who finds his own theory turned to account by the +supporters of a house which Germany once helped to overthrow, and which +she would gladly aid in overthrowing again. Perhaps Dr. Mommsen will +soon have an opportunity to speak more at length of French Caesarism, for +the first two volumes of Napoleon III.'s "Life of Julius Caesar" are +announced as nearly ready for publication, and their appearance cannot +fail to be the signal for a battle royal, as few scholars, we presume, +will be content to take historical law from an Emperor. The modern +master of forty legions will not be as fortunate as Hadrian in finding +philosophers disinclined to question his authority in letters; and he +may fare even worse at their hands than he fared at those of Mr. +Kinglake. The republic of letters is not to be mastered by a _coup +d'etat_. + +The opponents of Caesarism have not been silent, and it would be neither +uninteresting nor unprofitable, did time permit, to show how well they +have disposed of most of the arguments of their foes. The question is +not the old one, whether the party of Caesar or that of Pompeius was the +better one, for at bottom the two were very much the same, the struggle +being for supremacy over the whole Roman dominion; and it is certain +that there would have been no essential change of political procedure, +had the decision at Pharsalia been reversed. On that field Caesar was the +nominal champion of the liberal faction, and Pompeius was the nominal +champion of the _optimates_. Had Caesar lost the day, the plebeian +Pompeian house would have furnished an imperial line, instead of that +line proceeding from the patrician Julii. Pompeius would have been as +little inclined to abandon the fruits of his victory to the aristocrats +as Caesar showed himself to set up the rule of the Forum-populace, to +whose support he owed so much. It was to free himself from the weight of +his equals that Pompeius selected the East for the seat of war, when +there were so many strong military reasons why he should have proceeded +to the West, to Romanized Spain, where he had veteran legions that might +under his lead have been found the equals of Caesar's small, but most +efficient army. He wished to get out of the Republican atmosphere, and +into a country where "the one-man power" was the recognized idea of +rule. He acted as a politician, not as a soldier, when he sailed from +Brundisium to the East, and the nobility were not blind to the fact, and +were not long in getting their revenge; for it was through their +political influence that Pompeius was forced to deliver battle at +Pharsalia, when there were strong military reasons for refusing to +fight. That they were involved in their chief's fall was only in +accordance with the usual course of things, there being nothing to equal +the besotted blindness of faction, as our current history but too +clearly proves. + +As between Caesar and Pompeius, therefore, it is natural and just that +modern liberals should sympathize with the former, and contemplate his +triumph with pleasure, as he was by far the abler and better man, and +did not stain his success by bloodshed and plunder, things which the +Pompeians had promised themselves on a scale that would have astonished +Marius and Sulla, and which the Triumvirs never thought of equalling. +But when we are asked to behold as the result of the Roman Revolution +the deliverance of the provincials, and that as of purpose on the part +of the victor, we are inclined, in return, to ask of the Caesarians +whether they think mankind are such fools as not to be able to read and +to understand the Imperial history. That Caesar's success was beneficial +to Rome's subjects we do not dispute; but that the change he effected +was of the sweeping character claimed for it, or that Caesar ever thought +of being the reformer that his admirers declare him to have been, are +things yet to be proved. The change that came from the substitution of +the Imperial polity for the Republican was the result of circumstances, +and it was of slow growth. Imperialism was an Octavian, not a Julian +creation, as any reader will be able to understand who goes through the +closing chapters of Mr. Merivale's third volume. The first Caesar's +imperial career was too short, and too full of hard military work, to +admit of much being done by him of a political character; nor would it +have been possible for him, had he been a much younger man, and had he +lived for years, to accomplish what was effected by Augustus. The +terrible crisis that followed his death, and which lasted until the +decision of "the world's debate" at Actium gave a master to the Roman +world, prepared the way for the work that was done by his grand-nephew +and adopted son. The severe discipline which the Romans went through +between the day of Munda and that of Actium made them more acquiescent +in despotism than they would have been found, if Julius Caesar's mild +sway had been continued through that interval. It has been said that the +Triumvirate converted Caesar's sword into daggers, and the expression is +by no means too strong, as the world has never witnessed such another +reign of terror as followed from the union of Octavius, Antonius, and +Lepidus. If that union was formed for the purpose of reconciling men to +despotic rule, it must be allowed the merit that belongs to a perfect +invention. Without it the Roman Empire might never have had an +existence. + +Mr. Merivale's work may be considered as forming the text-book of +moderate Caesarism. An Englishman, he cannot be an advocate of despotism; +but he sees that the time had come for a change, and that under Caesar's +direction the change could be better made than under that of Pompeius or +his party. This is something very different from blind advocacy of +Caesarism; and we can follow him through his clear and vigorous narrative +of the events of the Revolution with general acquiescence in his views. +His first and second volumes, which are immediately under consideration, +may be said to form the history of the career of Caesar, and to present +the best account of that career which has been published in our +language. Introductory matter apart, his book opens with the appearance +of the first Emperor on the political stage, and the second volume +closes at the date of his assassination. His various political actions, +his achievements in Gaul and Britain, his marvellous exploits in Italy, +Spain, Macedonia, Greece, and Africa in the Civil War, and the character +of his legislation, are here told and set forth in a manner that comes +very near to perfection. There is a vividness in the narrative, and a +bringing-out of individual portraits, that make the work read like a +history of contemporary events. Nor does the author's just admiration of +Caesar's extraordinary intellect and wonderful deeds cause him to be +unjust to the eminent men on the other side, though as a rule he deals +severely with those Romans whom the world admires, when treating of the +effects of their conduct. It has been objected to his history, that he +speaks with freedom of Cicero's conduct on many occasions, but we think +that he has not exceeded the bounds of just criticism when considering +the course of the Roman orator; and in his third volume, when summing up +his character, he employs the most generous and lofty language in +speaking of him. "After all the severe judgments we are compelled to +pass on his conduct," he says, "we must acknowledge that there remains a +residue of what is amiable in his character and noble in his teaching +beyond all ancient example. Cicero lived and died in faith. He has made +converts to the belief in virtue, and had disciples in the wisdom of +love. There have been dark periods in the history of man, when the +feeble ray of religious instruction paled before the torch of his +generous philanthropy. The praise which the great critic pronounced upon +his excellence in oratory may be justly extended to the qualities of his +heart; and even in our enlightened days it may be held no mean advance +in virtue to venerate the master of Roman philosophy." An intelligent +admirer of the most illustrious victim of the Triumvirate will consider +these words something far better than anything that can be found in +Middleton's "lying legend in honor of St. Tully." It may be observed +that admiration of Cicero and sympathy with the Roman aristocratical +party mostly go together; and yet the Roman aristocracy disliked Cicero, +and their writers treated him harshly, while he received kind treatment +from writers on the other side. Livy, whom Augustus himself called the +_Pompeian_, says of Cicero that "he bore none of his calamities as a man +should, except his death"; and "Lucan denounces his perverse impolicy." +Mr. Merivale, in a note, observes that it can hardly be accidental that +Tacitus, in his historical works, never mentions him, and adds, "The +most glowing tribute to Cicero's merits is the well-known passage in +Juvenal, and this is written in the spirit of a Marian, or +anti-oligarch." Velleius, who is generally spoken of as a sort of +literary flunky of the Caesars, warmly panegyrizes Cicero. Had the +Pompeians triumphed, Cicero would not have found Italy the safe place +that it was to him under Caesar's rule. He would have fared as badly at +their hands as he did at those of the Clodian rabble, and Pompeius might +have been to him what Antonius became after Caesar's death. + +The portrait which Mr. Merivale has drawn of Cato does not meet with the +approval of those persons who admire old Roman virtue, of which Cato +was the impersonation; but they would find it difficult to show that he +has done that stubborn Stoic any injustice. Cato modelled himself on his +great-grandfather, Cato the Censor, a mean fellow, who sold his old +slaves in order that they might not become a charge upon him; but, as +our author remarks, the character of the Censor had been simple and true +to Nature, while that of his descendant was a system of elaborate, +though unconscious affectations. Cato behaved as absurdly as an American +would behave who should attempt to imitate his great-grandfather, the +old gentleman having died a loyal subject of George II. He was an honest +man, according to the Roman standard of honesty, which allowed a great +margin for the worst villany, provided it were done for the public good, +or what was supposed to be the public good. Like some politicians of our +time, he thought, that, when he had made it appear that a certain course +would be in accordance with ancient precedent, it should be +adopted,--making no allowance for the thousand disturbing causes which +the practical politician knows must be found on any path that may be +selected. Of all the men whose conduct brought about the Civil War, he +was the most virtuous, and he had the sagacity to oppose a resort to +arms; though how he succeeded in reconciling his aversion to war with +his support of a policy that led directly to its existence is one of the +mysteries of those days. The Pompeians found him a bore, and, had they +been victorious, would have saved him the trouble of killing himself, by +cutting off his head. Cato was one of the very few persons for whom +Caesar felt a strong dislike; but he would not have harmed him, had he +got his own consent to live. From Cato he had experienced no such insult +as he had met with from M. Marcellus, and Marcellus received permission +to return to Rome; but Cato was of an unmalleable nature, and preferred, +to an ignoble silence in Italy, the noble silence of the grave. He died +"after the high Roman fashion." Suicide might be called the natural +death of a Roman leader of that age, and nothing but the violence of +enemies could dispute the title with it. Cato, Brutus, Cassius, +Antonius, and others fell by their own hands, or by the hands of persons +who acted by their orders. Caesar, Pompeius, Cicero, and Crassus were +murdered. Nothing serves more to show how much Augustus differed from +most Romans of his century than the fact that he died in his bed at +extreme old age. + +That Mr. Merivale's Caesarism does not prevent him from doing justice to +the opponents of Caesar is proved by his portrait of Q. Lutatius Catulus, +the best leader of the _optimates_, and whom he pronounces to have been +the most moderate and disinterested of all the great men of his +day,--"indeed," he adds, "there is perhaps no character in the history +of the Commonwealth which commanded more general esteem, or obtained +more blameless distinction in political life." Yet Catulus was one of +those men with whom Caesar came earliest in collision, each as the +representative of his party on vital points of difference. Our +historian's estimate of the life, labors, purposes, and character of +Pompeius is singularly correct, when we consider the temptation that he +has to underrate the man with whom Caesar has stood in direct opposition +for nineteen centuries. There are few more emphatic passages in the +historical literature of our language than the account which is given in +Vol. II. ch. 18, of the last days and death of Pompeius, and which is +followed by a most judicious summing-up of his history and position as a +Roman leader. The historian's mind appears to be strongly affected by +the fate of the Pompeian house, as much so as was the imagination of the +Romans, which it seems to have haunted. This is in part due, we presume, +to the free use which he has made of Lucan's "Pharsalia," a work of +great value to those who would understand how the grand contest for +supremacy was viewed by the beaten party in after times. That poem is +the funeral wail of the Roman aristocracy, and it embodies the ideas and +traditions of the vanquished as they existed far down into the Imperial +age. It testifies to the original vitality of the aristocratical +faction, when we find a youthful contemporary of Nero dedicating his +genius to its service more than a century after the contest had been +decided on the battlefield. Whether Lucan was a patriot, or a selfish, +but disappointed courtier, we may feel certain that he never could have +written in the Pompeian spirit, if that spirit was not still dominant +in the minds of a large number of those men and women who formed the +most cultivated portion of Roman society. To a critical historian, such +as Mr. Merivale is, his poem must be very useful, though it would be +dangerous authority in unskilful hands. + +The leading merit of this history is that it supplies a want, and +supplies it effectually. Opening about sixty years before the beginning +of the Christian era, it terminates with the death of M. Aurelius +Antoninus, the point where Gibbon's work begins. We still need a work +beginning with the close of the Second Punic War and ending with the +death of Sulla, to connect Merivale with Arnold; but Mr. George Long is +about to supply the want, at least in part. The first two volumes, as we +have said, end at the date of Caesar's death. The third and fourth +embrace the long period in which Augustus was the principal character, +and when the Roman Empire was formed. The fifth and sixth cover the +reigns of Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, Nero, Galba, Otho, and +Vitellius, and a portion of the reign of Vespasian. The seventh and last +volume is devoted to the first Flavian house,--Vespasian, Titus, and +Domitian,--and to those "five good Emperors"--Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, +and the Antonines--whose reigns are renowned in the history of monarchy +for their excellence. The materials of the work are, for the most part, +ample, and they have been well employed by the historian, a man of +extensive scholarship and of critical sagacity. Whether we subscribe to +his opinions or not, there can be no doubt of his having presented a +brilliant picture of the civilized world during about two and a half +eventful centuries. His is the only readable work that we have which +affords a continuous narrative of the history of Rome from the +appearance of Caesar to the appearance of Commodus. Had it no other claim +upon us, this alone would justify us in recommending it to the closest +attention of all who desire to become acquainted with the facts that +make up the sum of Roman Imperial history. But it has other claims to +the consideration of readers. It makes Roman Imperial history thoroughly +intelligible, because events are philosophically treated, and their +bearing upon each other is rendered clear. It is written with vivacity, +force, and elegance. The style is the style of a gentleman, and the +sentiments are those of a Christian scholar. There is not a paragraph in +it which we could wish to see omitted, or essentially changed. It has +won for its author a place in the list of first-rate English historians, +and he is to be ranked with Macaulay, Grote, Hallam, Froude, Kinglake, +and others of those great writers who have done so much to illustrate +the English name and to advance the cause of humanity. Being familiar +with the work from the time that the first and second volumes were +published in England, in 1850, we have always desired that it should be +placed before the American reading public, confident that here its high +merits would secure for it a great and deserved popularity; and it is +with a sense of personal gratification that we have seen its publication +begun in New York, in a form that pleases the eye and gratifies good +taste. + + +_Church Pastorals_: Hymns and Tunes for Public and Social Worship. +Collected and Arranged by NEHEMIAH ADAMS, D. D. Boston: Ticknor +& Fields. + +The Rev. Dr. Bushnell, in August, 1852, delivered an address upon +"Religious Music" before the Beethoven Society of Yale College at the +opening of their new organ. In the peroration of this address, after +remarking upon the great assistance which Christian feeling receives in +the praise of God from "things without life giving sound," he goes on to +say,--"Let me suggest, also, in this connection, the very great +importance of the cultivation of religious music. Every family should be +trained in it; every Sunday or common school should have it as one of +its exercises. The Moravians have it as a kind of ordinance of grace for +the children: not without reason; for the powers of feeling and +imagination, and the sense of spiritual realities, are developed as much +by a training of childhood in religious music as by any other means. We +complain that choirs and organs take the music to themselves in our +churches, and that nothing is left to the people but to hear their +undistinguishable piping, which no one else can join or follow or +interpret. This must always be the complaint, till the congregations +themselves have exercise enough in singing to make the performance +theirs. As soon as they are able to throw in masses of sound that are +not barbarous, but Christian, and have a right enjoyment of their +feeling in it, they will have the tunes and the style of the exercise in +their own way,--not before.... The more sorrowful is it, that, in our +present defect of culture, there are so many voices which are more +incapable of the right distinctions of sound than things without life, +and which, when they attempt to sing, contribute more to the feeling of +woe than of praise." + +These words are as true to-day as when they were uttered twelve years +ago. Congregations which do not desire, or cannot afford, to resign the +musical portion of their service to professional singers, have something +more to do than to complain that the music is bad, or that they do not +like paid vocalists to troll out psalmody for them. They must go to work +and make their own music,--real music; for in these days unharmonious +sounds are almost as much out of place in the worship of God as an +uncatholic spirit and an heretical doctrine. The truth of this principle +many societies admit, and some, like the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher's, have +already put it into practice; the majority, however, wait for help to +free themselves from the customs which have kept them listeners when +they should be creators of vocal praise. The great obstacle to +congregational singing has been that the range of tunes already familiar +was very limited, while the providing a whole society with the +paraphernalia of music-books involved great expense to small purpose, +since a large portion of the tunes contained in these books are +unavailable for such use, being prepared with a view to the wants of +thoroughly trained singers; besides which, the reference to two books, +one for the words and the other for the music, is to many persons +perplexing, and to all inconvenient. + +"Church Pastorals" is an attempt to overcome this obstacle, and to +extend that help which is wanted. Other attempts have been made before, +but we regard this as the most successful, and consider that Dr. Adams +has prepared the best hymn-and-tune-book that has yet been issued, as we +propose briefly to illustrate by a recapitulation of his plan and his +manner of executing it. + +The hymns, which are nine hundred and eighty-eight in number, are +selected from the great mass of hymn-writers; although Watts and the +Wesleys furnish the foundation, and the materials of the superstructure +are largely drawn from Doddridge, Cowper, Toplady, Montgomery, and +others of kindred spirit, yet many beautiful things have been added from +the later religious poetry, which are no less fervid in feeling, while +less pronounced in doctrinal expression. These hymns are arranged in +judicious general divisions, which are again analytically separated into +special topics placed in logical sequence. After the hymns follow +thirty-eight doxologies, the editor having added to the short list of +common ones others which are fine enough to become standard at once. + +But it is less as a hymn- than as a tune-book that "Church Pastorals" +merits the notice of societies and individuals who are truly interested +in religious music, and we pass at once to our remarks upon this portion +of the work. The compiler, although holding himself personally +responsible for every selection, has availed himself of the advice and +assistance of persons professionally eminent in sacred music, one of +whom placed at his disposal a library which is unique in this country, +containing works of which few Americans have owned or seen duplicates, +such as rare "Choral-Buecher" of German cathedrals, and curious +collections of English ecclesiastical compositions, a partial list of +which is included in the volume, for the benefit of those who are +curious in such matters, or wish to know how far Dr. Adams's researches +have led him. To ascertain how many new melodies of the purest +devotional character have been derived from these rich sources a careful +examination is necessary, as also to comprehend with what skill the +harmony has been preserved or adapted, in order to secure the two +desirable results,--absolute freshness and beauty of treatment, and +practicability for ordinary use; but a casual inspection will give +sufficient indication of the spirit in which the work was undertaken, +and of the faithfulness with which it has been completed. + +While originality has been properly sought, the old, familiar elements +have not been neglected, and those simple songs which were upon the lips +of our parents and grandparents, and are yet dear to us from association +and intrinsic worth, are set in among the newer strains. The first +lines only are given of such as need merely to be recalled to the memory +of any who ever sing; but of others, equally prized, but less likely to +be remembered, the full score is given. + +The doxologies are for the most part set to noble chorals of such +strong, straightforward character that they cannot fail to become +friends and intimates at once. In them, as in all the tunes, the compass +of ordinary voices has been considered; and although nothing has been +left undone which could give beauty to melody or scholarly variousness +to harmony, the whole has been brought within the range of all singers. + +A novel and peculiar feature of the book is its "Stanzas to be sung +_impromptu_." Occasions often arise at social meetings or special +services, when it becomes desirable to sing a portion, or even the +whole, of some homely, hearty hymn, but, while "the spirit moves," the +opportunity is lost in the search for the words or the fit air, or in an +attempt to "set the tune." To meet this want, Dr. Adams has brought +together a variety of such stanzas, suited to all times and places, and, +coupled with each, the first line of a familiar melody, that the +propitious moment may be enjoyed and improved. + +It will of course be understood that the tune appointed for each hymn is +printed directly above it, all four parts being given at length, the two +trebles printed in a not unusual way upon one staff, the tenor and bass +having each separate lines. Therefore no difficulty in singing the hymns +can be felt even by the inexperienced, especially as one stanza is +printed with the notes to show the exact adaptation. + +In fine, "Church Pastorals" is a work worthy of an extended circulation +and capable of great usefulness. It can serve every purpose of public +worship, for it embraces all services of the Sabbath congregation or the +week-day gathering, and it touches upon all thoughts and feelings of +religious assemblies; it is not above the tastes and abilities of an +earnest congregation, nor beneath the notice and use of the independent +choir. More than this, it has a particular value for the home and the +fireside. Every household knows some quiet hour when the family-voices +seek to join in the happy harmony of some unpretending hymn, and when +the only limit to such grateful music is the failure of memory or the +meagreness of the library, which furnishes only the hymns, or, giving +the tunes, supplies only a part of the words,--for few families possess +both sorts of books in plenty for their convenient use. This volume +offers all,--the hymn, solemn, hopeful, sad, or jubilant, and united to +it a tune, perhaps remembered from recollection's earliest days, perhaps +unknown and untried, but suiting well the spirit of the words, and ready +at an instant's desire to express the sentiment or emotion that rises +for utterance. If "Church Pastorals" had no other merit, this alone +would make it worth possessing by all who love and ever practise sacred +music. + +A thorough and elaborate index includes in one ingenious list all +references, whether to hymns, tunes, or metres; and the inaccuracies +which will creep into even as handsome typography as this are +unimportant, and rectified as quickly as observed. The size is +convenient, and the shape comely. + + +_Illustrations of Progress_: A Series of Discussions by HERBERT +SPENCER. With a Notice of Spencer's "New System of Philosophy." New +York: D. Appleton & Co. + +Mr. Herbert Spencer is already a power in the world. Yet it is not the +vulgar apprehension of power which is associated with notoriety that we +claim for him. He holds no position of civil authority, neither +do his works compete with Miss Braddon's poorest novel in the +circulating-libraries. But he has already influenced the silent life of +a few thinking men whose belief marks the point to which the +civilization of the age must struggle to rise. In America, we may even +now confess our obligations to the writings of Mr. Spencer, for here +sooner than elsewhere the mass feel as utility what a few recognize as +truth. The reader acquainted with the admirable papers upon Education, +which have been republished and extensively circulated in this country, +has recognized their author's fresh and vigorous spirit, his power of +separating the essential from the accidental, as well as his success in +grasping the main features of a subject divested of frivolous and +subordinate details. That he possesses a thinking faculty of rare +comprehensiveness, as well as acuteness, will be allowed by all who will +study his other works now in course of republication in New York. + +Mr. Spencer is at present engaged in an heroic attempt to construct a +sufficing system of philosophy, which shall include Biology, Psychology, +Sociology, and Morality. The great interest to mankind of the discussion +proposed, as well as Mr. Spencer's claims to be intrusted with it, are +set forth with singular clearness and felicity in the essay which +introduces the present volume. Whatever success the latest discoveries +in science render possible to solid intellectual force assisted by the +keenest instruments of logic will doubtless be attained. As far as the +frontiers of knowledge where the intellect may go, there is no living +man whose guidance may more safely be trusted. Mr. Spencer represents +the scientific spirit of the age. He makes note of all that comes within +the range of sensuous experience, and declares whatever may be derived +therefrom by a careful induction. As a philosopher he does not go +farther. Yet beyond this the heart of humanity must ever penetrate. Let +it be true, as it doubtless is, that, when the understanding by process +of logic seeks to demonstrate the Cause of All, it finds a barren +abstraction destitute of personality. It is no less true that God +reveals Himself to the human feeling without intermediate agency. For +the religious _sentiment_ Mr. Spencer finds an indestructible +foundation. While maintaining that man can grasp and know only the +finite, he yet holds that science does not fill the whole region of +mental activity. Man may realize in consciousness what he may not grasp +in thought. + +Of the other doctrines of Mr. Spencer we attempt no exposition. His +attitude towards theology is to us more satisfactory than that of any +recent thinker of the first class. But whatever his conclusions, every +true man will respect and encourage that rectitude of mind which follows +the issues of its reasoning at any cost. It was not the philosopher in +his brain, but the fool _in his heart_, who said, "There is no God." It +is of little matter what inappropriate name narrow people may have +chosen for Mr. Spencer. Here is a conscientious investigator who finds +duty everywhere, who labors to give men truths which shall elevate and +reform their lives; but he believes that the hope of humanity was +potentially shut in an egg, and never in an ark. And there is the +"reader upon the sofa,"--church-member he may be,--who tosses aside +"Vanity Fair" with the reflection that a gossiping of London snobs is +human life, and that the best thing to be done is to pay pew-rates and +lie still and gird at it. Which of these two, think you, is the modern +representative of King David's "fool"? + +We would not be charged with the superfluity of commending to scholars +the writings of Mr. Spencer. They have long ago found them out. It is to +the mass of working men and women who make time for a solid book or two +in the course of the year that we submit their claims. While those who +have the leisure and training to realize Mr. Spencer's system as a +developed unity must necessarily be few, no reader of tolerable +intelligence can fail to find much of interest and suggestion in its +several parts. With a common allowance for the abstruse nature of the +subjects of which he treats, Mr. Spencer may be called a _popular_ +writer. His philosophical terminology will not be found troublesome in +those of his writings which will first attract the reader. The "Social +Statics," the "Essays," and the treatise on "Education" are very +clearly, as well as most gracefully, written. And after these have been +mastered, most readers will not be repelled by the less easy reading of +the "Principles of Psychology," and the "New System of Philosophy." All +these works are rich in materials for forming intelligent opinions, even +where we are unable to agree with those put forward by the author. Much +may be learnt from them in departments in which our common educational +system is very deficient. The active citizen may derive from them +accurate, systematized information concerning his highest duties to +society, and the principles on which they are based. He may gain clearer +notions of the value and bearing of evidence, and be better able to +distinguish between facts and inferences. He may find common things +suggestive of wiser thought--nay, we will venture to say, of truer +emotion--than before. For Mr. Spencer is not of that school of +"philosophy" which teaches the hopelessness of human effort, and, by +implication, the abandonment of moral dignity. From profound +generalizations upon society, he rises to make the duty of the +individual most solemn and imperative. Above all, he has this best +prerogative of really great thinkers,--he is able to change sentiments +to convictions. + +If we have not particularized the claims of the single volume whose +title is at the head of our notice, it is because all that Mr. Spencer +has written moves towards one end and is equally worthy of attention. +The essays here given are selected from two series, the first published +in 1857, the second in 1863. The present arrangement has been chosen by +the author as more suitable to develop the general purpose which governs +his work. While the doctrine of Evolution is more or less illustrated in +each of these papers, the variety of subjects discussed must touch at +some point the taste and pursuit of any reader. From "Manners and +Fashion" to "The Nebular Hypothesis" is a sweep bold enough to include +most prominent topics with which we are concerned. Indeed, we can recall +no modern volume of the same size which so thoroughly credits its author +with that faculty of looking about him which Pope thought it was man's +business to exercise. There are the current phrases, "seeing life," and +"knowing the world," which generally used to signify groping in the +dirtiest corners of the one and fattening lazily upon the other; but if +it were possible to rescue such expressions from their vulgar +associations, we think that a candid reader would apply the best +conceptions they suggested to the writer of the discussions here +collected. The world as it is to-day is seen by Mr. Spencer as by few +living men. The sciences, which taken singly too often seem only good to +expel the false, have been summoned together to declare the true. Not +Nature alone, but Humanity, which is greater than Nature, must be +interrogated for answers that shall satisfy the ripest reason of the +age. By the rare gifts of comparison which turn to account his wide +observations, Mr. Spencer has already established principles which, +however compelled for a time to compromise with prejudices and vested +interests, will become the recognized basis of an improved society. + +Our only interest in recommending this author to our countrymen comes +from the conviction that he is peculiarly capable of impressing for good +the present condition of our national character. By giving us fuller +realizations of liberty and justice his writings will tend to increase +our self-reliance in the great emergency of civilization to which we +have been summoned. "Our Progressive Independence," so brilliantly +illustrated by Dr. Holmes, emancipating us from foreign fine-writing, +leaves us free to welcome the true manhood and mature wisdom of Europe. +In the time of our old prosperity, amusing a leisure evening over +Kingsley or Ruskin, we were tempted to exclaim, with Sir Peter Teazle, +"There's nothing half so noble as a man of sentiment!" But in these +latter days we have seen "Mr. Gradgrind" step from Dickens's wretched +caricature to bring his "facts" to the great cause of humanity, while +"Joseph Surface" reserved his "sentiments" for the bloody business by +which Slavery sought to subject all things to herself. We have seen the +belles-lettres literature of England more deeply disgraced than when it +smirked before the harlots of the second Charles, or chanted a +blasphemous benediction over George IV. But the thought and science of +the Old World it is still our privilege to recognize. And it can hardly +be necessary to say that the sympathies of Mr. Spencer, like those of +Mill and Cochin, have been with the government and loyal people of the +United States. And so we take especial pleasure in mentioning that a +considerable interest in the American copyright of his writings has been +secured to the author, and also, despite the facilities of reading-clubs +and circulating-libraries, that they are emphatically _books to own_. + + +_Poems._ By FREDERICK GODDARD TUCKERMAN. Boston: Ticknor and +Fields. + +These poems show by internal evidence that they are the productions of a +man of refined organization and delicate sensibility to beauty, who has +lived much in solitude and tasted of the cup of sorrow. Of decided +originality in intellectual construction it cannot be said that they +give emphatic proof: the poet, as Schiller has said, is the child of his +age, and Mr. Tuckerman's poetry not unfrequently shows that he has been +a diligent student of those masters in his art who have best caught and +reproduced the spirit of the times in which we dwell. It has one quality +to a high degree,--and that is, a minute knowledge of the peculiarities +of the natural world as it appears in New England. In his long woodland +walks, he has kept open an eye of observation as practised as that of +the naturalist. The trees, the shrubs, the flowers of New England are +known to him as they are to few. He is tempted to draw too largely upon +this source of interest: in other words, there is too much of +description in his volume. Life is hardly long enough for such elaborate +painting. We may admire the skill of the delineation, but we cannot +pause sufficiently before the canvas to do full justice to the painter. +Those poems in which Mr. Tuckerman expresses the emotions of bereavement +and sorrow are those which have the highest merit in point of thought +and expression. They are full of tenderness and sensibility; but the +poet should bear in mind that strings which vibrate such music should be +sparingly struck. + +It may be somewhat paradoxical to say so, but it appears to us that the +poetry of Mr. Tuckerman would be improved, if it had more of prose in +it. It does not address itself to common emotions and every-day +sympathies. His flour is bolted too fine. One must almost be a poet +himself to enter into full communion with him. In intellectual +productions the refining process should not be carried too far: beyond a +certain point, what is gained in delicacy is lost in manliness and +power. + + +_Possibilities of Creation; or, What the World might have been._ A Book +of Fancies. London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. + +The author describes his work as a treatise of the Bridgewater class. We +should rather describe it as a _reductio ad absurdum_ in Natural +Philosophy. A great deal of humor, ingenuity, and information are +brought into play to turn the world upside-down, for the very laudable +purpose of demonstrating that it is better to be right side up,--a +method of demonstration curious and interesting enough, if comprised in +a single essay, but rather long-drawn-out, when spread over four hundred +pages. Suppose, for instance, is the writer's mode of argument, a +malicious demon let loose, with power to set the earth topsy-turvy, on +condition of keeping it still an earth. With what exultation does he +bestride the Himalayas to watch the convulsions which he causes! How +does he kick his heels against the mountain-flanks, in ecstasy at seeing +men bleached and blistered with the chlorine or nauseated with the +sulphuretted hydrogen which he has substituted for our wholesome and +pleasant air! Or what should we do, if potato-roots had happened to be +moistened with gin instead of water? What if men, instead of standing +god-like erect, had been great balls of flesh, rolling along the ground +as best they could,--if Young's poetical figure had been a practical +truth, and this globe were the Bedlam of the universe,--if the fixity of +Nature had been shattered, and we sat down at our feasts to find the +soup bitter as strychnine, the wine changed into vinegar, and mild ale +fiery as vitriol? What if wrinkles and gray hairs came in the twinkling +of an eye,--if children were born with matured minds,--if no one were +capable of anger,--and men started at the same point to arrive at the +same conclusions? In short,-- + + "If all the world was apple-pie, + And all the sea was ink, + And all the trees were bread and cheese, + What should we have for drink?" + +To all which startling inquiries we are fain to say, that, if Merrie +England sits under her present squally skies in such a frame of bliss +that she must have recourse to her imagination, when she wishes to +contemplate a nice little _imbroglio_, she must be awarded the palm for +being what Mark Tapley would call "jolly under creditable +circumstances." For ourselves, we frankly confess that we find quite +trouble enough in steering among the realities of creation, without +caring to venture far out among its possibilities. + + + + +RECENT AMERICAN PUBLICATIONS + +RECEIVED BY THE EDITORS OF THE ATLANTIC MONTHLY. + + +Cudjo's Cave. By J. T. Trowbridge, Author of "Neighbor Jackwood," etc. +Boston. J. E. Tilton & Co. 12mo. pp. 504. $1.50. + +Sadlier's Catholic Almanac and Ordo for the Year of our Lord 1864. With +Full Returns of the Various Dioceses in the United States and British +North America. And a List of the Archbishops, Bishops, and Priests in +Ireland. New York. D. & J. Sadlier & Co. 12mo. paper. pp. 330. 50 cts. + +The Natural History of Secession; or, Despotism and Democracy at +Necessary, Eternal, Exterminating War. By Thomas Shepard Goodwin, A. M. +New York. John Bradburn. 12mo. pp. 328. $1.25. + +Squadron Tactics under Steam. [By Authority of the Navy Department.] By +Foxhall A. Parker, Commander United States Navy. 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