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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:53:14 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:53:14 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/18395-8.txt b/18395-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbb6c8a --- /dev/null +++ b/18395-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2419 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Girl's Own Paper, Vol. VIII: No. 356, +October 23, 1886., by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Girl's Own Paper, Vol. VIII: No. 356, October 23, 1886. + +Author: Various + +Release Date: May 15, 2006 [EBook #18395] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER, VOL. *** + + + + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + +THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER + +VOL. VIII.--NO. 356. + +OCTOBER 23, 1886. + +PRICE ONE PENNY. + + + + +A DREAM OF QUEENS' GARDENS.[1] + +A STORY FOR GIRLS.--IN TWO PARTS. + +BY DANIEL DORMER. Author of "Out of the Mists." + + +PART II. + +A QUEEN'S DREAM. + +[Illustration: "LILACS AND LABURNUM TREES BLOOM ABUNDANTLY AROUND."] + +Yet the recollection of that book is helping to soften Hazel. There is a +tender bit of writing at the close of the lecture which can hardly fail +to reach any woman's heart, unless it be wholly hardened; and Hazel's is +not a hard heart. So she muses on it, growing gradually calmer and +happier. After all, she might be of some use in the world if she were to +try, and if One Divine would be with her. + +She stoops down to throw some coal on the fire. She is too much +exhausted physically to make it up carefully; but with an effort piles +on large blocks and small indiscriminately, then throws in a handful of +matches from a box within reach. What strange chaos there seems to be in +the grate after a little while! One after another the matches go off +with a phiz and short-lived flare, and each seems to light up a more +curious scene than the last. From being mere piled-up blocks of coal in +a grate, they grow to be a half blocked up entrance to some unknown +place. There is a large shining black portal, half ruined, surrounded +with _débris_. By degrees Hazel's languid curiosity is excited, and she +wonders whither it leads. Why should she not explore?... The next match +which takes fire lights up the slight form leaning far back in the big +chair, with the soft, golden brown hair half loosened, and the dark, +shadowed eyes fast closed. And Hazel has passed through the dark +gateway, and is in a wonderful world. + +What a strange black gateway to have led into so fair a garden! Hazel +pauses at the entrance, her eyes glistening, her breath taken away with +delight at the beauty of the scene before her. A paradise of fresh green +shade and exquisite light and colouring. Wide-spreading chestnuts, +graceful, feathery birches, and a hundred other trees, clothed and robed +in their tender young leaves, mingle with a glory of pink and white +spring blossom, which seems to fill the air like a snowstorm in the +clear, blue sky. The South wind blows and fans Hazel's cheek, and wafts +delicious breath of flowers and sweet-brier around her. Beneath the +shower of snowy blossom stretches smooth, green grass, and masses of +brilliant flowers glow, expanding their petals up towards the sun. + +After a while Hazel wanders forward in a dreamy intoxication of delight, +every moment discovering fresh beauties. She finds a beautiful grotto, +where are large rocks and cascades and running streams and fountains. +She enters by a low archway of stone, covered with drooping ferns, and +there, right before her, is a large clear pool at the foot of a huge +rock. She flushes with the prettiest of shy pleasure and frank +admiration at sight of her own reflection. + +How beautiful! A girl in a long, white robe, with a sweet, dark-eyed +face, which she knows to be her own. She is leaning slightly forward, +and the eyes--so often heavy and weary--are brimming with happiness, the +lips parted in a smile. Her hair, with its pretty, sunny ripples, is +unbound, and the wind blows it slightly back from her shoulders. And, +most wonderful and striking of all, a circlet of pure gold rests upon +the shapely head, and a second circlet is clasped round the waist. Then +she is a queen? No doubt of it. And then comes, to the joy of admiration +of all she has seen, the added joy of certainty that all is her own. +This is a queen's garden, and she is the happy queen! + +More and more dawns gradually upon her. There are those near at hand +dear to her, to whom she is also dear, whose queen she is. Oh the joy of +it all! She clasps her hands in ecstasy, and the pretty reflection in +the pool is more than ever lovely, only she has forgotten it now. + +A serious thought must have come into Hazel's mind, for suddenly a +different expression appears in her eyes; a look of perplexity and shade +of sorrow. The consciousness in her new life is growing, and, alas! it +is not unmixed with pain. This garden is not all the world, then? She +puts her hand to her brow, trying to recall something. Slowly it comes +back to her in words, noble words, spoken by one whose face is a +darkness to her. And she listens-- + +"It is you queens only who can feel the depths of pain, and conceive the +way to its healing." + +Ah! that is enough. She has lost her desire to recall more. She would +fain turn back to the former delight and forget the existence of pain. +But the steady voice persists, and will not be quenched. + +"Instead of trying to do this, you turn away from it; you shut +yourselves within your park walls and garden gates; and you are content +to know that there is beyond them a whole world in wilderness, a world +of secrets which you dare not penetrate, and of suffering which you dare +not conceive." + +Hazel looks round on the garden. How pleasant it is! Why should she +leave it? Why should she concern herself with what may lie outside this +home-kingdom of hers? She tries again to banish the voice, yet she knows +in her heart, if she would only look for its knowledge, that, outside of +that little rose-covered wall, the wild grass, to the horizon, is torn +up by the agony of men, and beat level by the drift of their life-blood. + +Yes, it is useless; there is no escaping the truth the voice tells. So +Hazel yields herself to listen as it goes on. + +"I knew you would like that to be true; you would think it a pleasant +magic if you could flush your flowers into brighter bloom by a kind look +upon them; nay, more, if your look had the power, not only to cheer, but +to guard.... This you would think a great thing! And do you not think it +a greater thing that all this (and how much more than this) you can do +for fairer flowers than these, flowers that could bless you for having +blessed them, and will love you for having loved them; flowers that have +thoughts like yours, and lives like yours, and which, once saved, you +save for ever? Is this only a little power? Far among the moorlands and +the rocks, far in the darkness of the terrible streets, these feeble +florets are lying, with all their fresh leaves torn and their stems +broken; will you never go down to them, nor set them in order in their +little fragrant beds, nor fence them, in their trembling, from the +fierce wind?" + +Engrossed with the voice, Hazel has been walking on, little heeding +whither she goes, when, as its tones die away, a groan startles her. How +terrible its sound; how incongruous, interrupting the soft harmonious +chorus of the soaring, singing birds! So painfully near it seemed, too, +it could but have been a very little distance off outside that gate +which she sees before her. Her first impulse is to draw back and retire, +shuddering, far into the garden. But, behold! the gate swings back of +its own accord, and in the face of that fact, and with the remembrance +of the words she has heard, she dare not do other than pass through the +open way. + +What a strange, wide world, and how dreary! A great, mad battle is +raging; the grass, sloping up to the horizon, is scorched with the heat +of the sun--the sun which only made a pleasant warmth in the shady +garden. There is the fierce galloping of horses, and wrestling and +fighting of men. Shouts and groans fill the air and drown the song of +the birds. There are heaps of dying and wounded. Ah! there is one man +not a stone's throw from her; his must have been the voice that reached +her within her gates. How remarkable that she should have heard nothing +before of all the great din. Another groan, followed by some inaudible +words, causes Hazel timidly to approach the wounded man. He is evidently +one of the very poorest of the "common" soldiers; and there is a look in +his face which speaks the word death with a shudder in the girl's heart. +A gleam lightens the agony in the man's eyes as he sees the white form +and gentle face above him. He gazes steadily a moment, as though to make +sure his vision is not a passing illusion; then Hazel catches the words, +"Were you sent to me?" + +Very quietly she tells him in whose name she comes. Then, with a long, +struggling sigh of satisfaction, without a shadow of further questioning +in the dying eyes or voice, he whispers--"Hope even for me in Him, then, +since He sent you!" + +So the low, flickering flame of life, set free, leaps up to its source; +and the forsaken home rests in unbroken peace. + +Saddened, and yet peaceful, too, Hazel turns slowly away from the +battle-field, and walks on, not noticing whither she goes. Jarring +sounds recall her, and she finds herself in a narrow valley, surrounded +by noisy children and brawling women. No one seems conscious of her +presence. A lot of men are lounging against the wall of a public-house. +The low building is conspicuous by its being in good repair, while its +neighbours are all in a shattered condition. The window-frames are +painted and varnished, and the open entrance discloses a smart interior. +A few doors beyond this the houses reach the climax of desolate +disorder. The whole place is tumbling down; the window is broken; the +battered door is off its hinges, propped up against the wall. A cripple +girl is sitting on a broken box, turned upside down, immediately outside +this miserable hovel. Her face is a greater shock to Hazel than any of +the other wretchedness around. There is a desperation of bitterness in +that set, white face, with its hollow eyes and cheeks, which is +absolutely appalling. Hazel had always imagined that suffering must of +necessity, by its own inherent nature, bring with it a patience which +would be reflected in a sweet face. Slowly, as she scans those immovable +features, full of pain, and still more full of dogged rebellion, this +idea has to be abandoned. Here obviously is a human being in the midst +of a noisy squalor, whose physical disease and torture is unlightened by +one softening ray of hope; whose misery is too sullen and dull to rise +even to the hope of putting an end to itself. + +One moment and the deformed girl starts apprehensively. A sob has +sounded in her ear, and some one, unlike any she has ever seen +heretofore, stands beside her, taking her hand in mute, unspeakable +compassion. She cowers back against the wall and drags away her hand; +Hazel's purity and loveliness raises in her only a shrinking dislike and +dread of contact. + +It is long before the pleading, loving voice gains any hearing; but at +last, before the two part, some faint expression of intelligent thought +has dawned on the lame girl's brow; and in her mind a question has been +raised, "Can it be that there is one who loves me and has need of me?" + +The evening sunlight is falling through the birches in the beautiful +garden; the air is full of fragrance and harmony; the queen is +returning. Wearily she opens the gate to enter. She is filled with pain, +for the many sadnesses to which she has drawn near have touched her own +soul with the shadow of suffering. + +Suddenly, in the chequered shade of the trees at the entrance of the +garden, she stops and turns round, for a bright radiance envelops her. +And, lo! there stands One, in glorious light--One in whose Divine face +love is shining. Hazel bows down, her whole soul overwhelmed with +reverent awe. Then her hand is taken and held with a touch which thrills +her with exquisite rapture, and a voice in her ears says-- + +"Come, see with Me My garden." + +And the air, which is filled with light, grows buoyant, and, while her +hand is still clasped by the Divine Guide, she is wafted upwards. + +Stretched out below, the hills and vales of the earth are one vast +garden. All is indistinct at first; expanses of misty colour and tint; +but by degrees the scene resolves itself into more definite form. The +whole is intersected and watered with streams, more or less clear and +pure, which arise and are replenished from a bright vapour, the Spirit +of Life, which shines, issuing forth from an empty tomb in a rock in the +East. There are banks of wild violets and primroses, and woods filled +with anemones and hyacinths--myriads of beautiful flowers, reaching over +all the world. + +Hazel has hardly taken in anything of the wonder of the scene, when her +attention is attracted by an arch of white mist above the earth, and, as +it seems, but a few paces from her. Gradually this path of mist grows +clear as crystal, and the colours glancing in it take shape, and form a +clear, transparent picture. + +A cornfield on a summer evening, filled with blossoms of poppies and +corn-flowers. A wild storm sweeps over the field; the corn is broken +down; the flowers are crushed beneath its weight, draggled and withered. +A poppy, torn up by its roots, is whirled through the air. + +A mist sweeps over the crystalline cloud, and where it grows clear again +the scene is changed to a wild hill-side. Scarlet and blue flowers +intermingle in the distance; in the foreground lies a single poppy, +withered and dying. Slowly, beside it a lily grows up; as it grows the +fading poppy is stirred, touched by its leaves; and the tiny bells +waving over it inspire new life and vigour, till at length, grown whole +and fresh, it is loosened from the brown uptorn roots, and floats +upwards, to bloom more beautiful in Paradise. + +Again the mist passes over the light picture and changes it. A woodland +scene is painted there now. Amid the fern and moss and twigs under the +trees, wild flowers are blowing. A pathway intersects the little wood, +and across it shadows of the trees fall, with sunlight between. In the +foremost patch of sunshine, at the edge of the path, is a sprinkling of +anemone leaves. And there amongst them a delicate blossom, half crushed +by the superincumbent weight of moss, the fallen leaves of last year, +and tiny, lichen-covered twigs. The white, transparent petals are soiled +and deformed, thrust down to the earth. As Hazel looks, regretting that +she has not the power to stretch forth her hand and clear away the +destructive weight, the leaves and twigs tremble, and are uplifted, and +fall away from the slender plant, for close beside it a hardy little +fern frond slowly uncurls itself and arises. The frail blossom stirs +slightly, released from the overwhelming pressure; but has no strength +to do more. Oh, for water to revive it! And, lo! from the fair green +fern drops of dew embosomed there are shed and scattered over the +downcast head. They are drunk in, and by degrees the drooping cup is +raised to the friendly fern. And then, the straight young frond, itself +ever growing, waves aside in a natural, graceful sweep, and allows the +sunshine in all its strong radiance and reviving force to fall full on +the flower. And the half-closed bell joyously expanding, grows white and +strong and beautiful. + +And so the crystal pictures change and change, till Hazel's every +helpful act has been set forth. Then, as the last fades, and the arch of +storied light itself dissolves and melts, with one all-absorbing passion +of eternal devotion flooding her whole being, Hazel turns to Him who has +kept her beside Him throughout, her hand retained in His. For one moment +she beholds Him, the Unutterable One; and in His Sacred Face she reads, +amid ineffable love and infinite majesty, a look of gratitude. And once +more the Divine accents fall on her ear, saying-- + +"'Inasmuch as thou didst it unto one of these My brethren, even these +least, thou didst it unto Me.' + +"Let not those, the queens of the earth, to whom I have given the +priceless gifts of life and leisure, hold either lightly. Life, with its +sorrows and its joys, is but the education time fitting them to live for +ever with Me. The leisure I have bestowed may be used for Me, in doing +work in My garden--work which I have prepared for them to do, and which +I long to see done. Let them see to it that they waste not the +opportunity in fretful discontent and idleness--'And whosoever shall +give to drink unto one of these little ones, a cup of cold water only, +in the name of a disciple, verily I say unto you, she shall in no wise +lose her reward.'" + + * * * * * + +Hazel awoke. The moon was streaming in through the window. The grate was +filled with shining blocks of coal, and a few half-burnt matches. Aching +all over, and shivering with cold, she closed her eyes once more, and a +period of insensibility followed. + +Many days and nights of feverish illness ensued--days and nights in +which Hazel had much to suffer, and was only from time to time +conscious of the loving, unceasing care which watched over her. In those +intervals when her mind was not dazed and confused, she saw a face, old +and plain and wrinkled, which was to her as the face of an angel, for +Miss Bright tended and watched her with all the self-sacrifice of a +noble, true woman. + +At length, after a weary, weary time of pain, Hazel fell asleep once +more. Her dream came back to her, for she thought she was resting in the +warm sunshine on a bed of lilies in the same beautiful garden. And when +she opened her eyes she found her room was really bright and warm with a +fire and sunshine, and fresh and sweet with the fragrance of lilies of +the valley, a large bunch of them standing beside her, and more lying on +the white coverlid of her bed. Her eyes filled and her heart swelled +with gratitude. Softly she whispered, as though she spoke to someone +close beside her, "Dear Lord, I am so thankful to Thee for making me +better. I so longed to live a little while more to do some work for Thee +in Thy garden. I bless Thee so!" + +The door opened, and Brightie came in. The brave old woman broke down as +she clasped Hazel in her joy at the improvement in her. The two cried +together for a little while; there was so very much to be glad about +that the gladness was too great for self-control. + +A few days later, a girl with a white but radiantly happy face is +resting in a cane armchair, her feet supported by a footstool, in the +garden of a pretty country house at Fridorf. The sunshine is hot, but +she is shaded from it by a trellis work of young-leaved creepers +overhead. Lilacs and laburnum trees bloom abundantly around. The lawn +before her is smooth and green, and beyond is the sea. + +"How wonderful God's love is!" the girl says, presently, reaching out +her hand to an old woman with a peaceful face who shortly joins her, and +who clasps and retains the hand with an answering look more eloquent +than speech. + +THE END + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] Sesame and Lilies. By John Ruskin LL.D. 1. Of Kings' Treasuries. 2. +Of Queens' Gardens. + + + + +HINTS ON MODELLING IN CLAY. + +BY FRED MILLER. + + +Modelling in clay is a very agreeable change in one's artistic +occupation, for it is quite unlike other branches of art, and calls into +play a different set of faculties for its performance. It needs a +greater amount of "hand cunning" than does painting, and is in that +sense akin to wood carving, to which delightful craft it is, indeed, +almost indispensable, and, I might add, part of the necessary training +one has to undergo to become a carver in wood. And as on another +occasion I am going to write a few hints on wood carving, the present +article may be taken as a prelude to the one on that subject. + +The materials necessary to try one's hand at modelling are very +inexpensive. The clay is the most essential thing, and this can be +purchased at one or two artists' colourmen, or, better still, at any +pottery. I have had clay sent me from the potteries in Staffordshire, +and those of my readers who live near a pottery would have no difficulty +in supplying themselves with clay. The clay used for flower-pots does +for coarse work, but is not sufficiently carefully prepared for fine +work. It burns a rich red colour, and is, of course, terra-cotta. The +clay used in making the terra-cotta plaques and vases is what you +require for fine work. There are two or three firms who supply London +shops with terra-cotta vases, etc., and I have no doubt that clay might +be purchased of them. + +The clay used in making tiles does for modelling, but perhaps the best +is that which burns a cream colour. It is a dull grey colour, rather +dark before it is fired, and it should be noticed that it is difficult +to tell the colour clay will burn by its appearance when unbaked. Thus a +grey clay may burn a rich red or pale cream. The qualities necessary in +clay for modelling are plasticity, which enables it to be worked without +falling to pieces, and fineness--a perfect freedom from grit, small +stones, and other impurities. It should be quite soft to the touch, and +when pressed and kneaded should feel smooth and silky. Old clay is more +plastic as well as being tougher than new, and in potteries clay is +often kept a considerable time before it is used. The clay should not be +allowed to dry when it is not in use, and to prevent this it must be +wrapped in wet flannel. Should it dry quite hard, there is nothing to do +but to put it into a vessel and pour water on it, allowing it to stand +until the clay becomes soft. Some of the moisture must then be allowed +to evaporate, otherwise it is too soft for use. This is another point to +be observed in clay used for modelling. It must not be too damp. If it +sticks to the fingers it is too wet, and if it resists the pressure of +the fingers, too dry. The state between stickiness and stubbornness is +what is wanted. + +Now as to the tools. Wooden modelling tools can be purchased at some +artists' colourmen, and also at some tool shops. You must choose those +tools you think look handiest. A little practice will soon show you +which are the best to have. + +Each modeller has a predilection for certain tools, and it will take my +readers very little time to find out which tools give the best results. +I often shape those I buy myself to fit them for particular work. In +addition to these wooden tools, it is necessary to have a fine steel one +to work the clay when it is dry. Modelling tools are very inexpensive. +You really require no other tools but these wooden ones and a steel one, +but it is necessary to have a few boards to work your clay upon. They +should be strong, with battens at the back to prevent them warping, +which they are liable to do owing to the dampness of the clay. + +We will start our work with a very simple design, for our aim should be +to overcome the difficulties by degrees. The design I have chosen (fig. +1) was modelled as a tile about eight inches square, and the first thing +to be done is to roll out a piece of clay about half an inch thick, and +fairly flat all over. It is as well to work the clay up in one's hands, +damping it occasionally if too dry. If clay be allowed to remain +untouched for any length of time it gets set, and does not work easily; +therefore, thoroughly work it up with the hands. It may be made into a +ball, and can be rolled out flat with a thick ruler or rolling pin. The +clay has a tendency to curl up round the rolling pin, and care must be +taken to prevent this. If the rolling pin be covered with leather, this +is to a great extent prevented. The design can be made on tracing paper, +and by marking over the tracing paper placed over the clay with a hard +point, an impression sufficiently distinct will be left to guide one in +doing the actual modelling. The first thing is to build up the oranges, +which can be done by sticking little pellets of clay on to the slab, +pressing them down with the fingers, and rounding the oranges roughly +into shape. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.--A TILE. + +_Our First Experiment._] + +Don't be too particular about this part of the work; be content to get +some approximation to the shape, leaving the finishing to be done with +the tools. Build up the stem in like manner, or you might roll out a +thin piece of clay and stick this on to the slab. In sticking clay on to +clay, it is always advisable to wet both the clay and the slab to +ensure thorough adhesion, and in working the design into shape it is +even a good plan to dip the fingers into water, as the extra moisture +makes it easier to press the clay into the requisite shape. + +The leaves can be modelled separately, and stuck on to the clay slab one +by one. Do as much of the work as you can with the fingers. In +modelling, the fingers are the best tools, after all. They do their work +so much more expeditiously and effectively than the so-called "tools" +do, and, depend upon it, the more the preliminary work is done with the +fingers the better, as the use of the fingers tends towards boldness of +design and vigour of execution. People, in starting a new employment, +are very apt to be finiking owing to timidity, and this must be overcome +from the outset--this tendency to pettiness--and in the case of +modelling, the best way to overcome it is to do all the preliminary work +with the fingers. Build up the design boldly and freely, studying only +the principal masses and most important forms. When this is +accomplished, let the clay stand a little time uncovered, as the use of +water will have made it very sticky, and the modelling tools cannot be +used as efficiently when the clay is in this state as when it is drier. + +The modelling tools will enable you to begin to finish up the design, +for at present the design exists only in its rough state. Pick the clay +out of the interstices of the design, and begin to refine the different +forms by putting in the more delicate curves. It very much depends upon +the nature of the design as to how far in the direction of finish you +carry the work, but as your modelled tile will not be exposed to rough +usage, you may under-cut it, as modellers say. Under-cutting is the +taking of the clay away from the back of the various forms. In the +leaves, for instance, instead of leaving a solid mass of clay at the +back, this should be carefully cut away underneath, or under-cut, so as +to give lightness and delicacy to the work. Of course, it is necessary +to leave some clay here and there to attach the various forms to the +slab. The under-cutting may be carried to such a pitch as to make the +design look weak, and as though it would fall to pieces with a puff of +wind. When this is the case, I reckon the finishing has been carried too +far. Clay should always look strong enough to hold together, and I may +say I never thought much of that fancy china one sees which is covered +with flowers and foliage modelled as delicately as though wrought in +some precious metal. Sooner or later the edges get chipped off, and the +charm of such work is immediately gone. Of course we know that an +accident may destroy work that is not wrought in this delicate manner, +but modelled clay should be delicate without being weak--it should at +least look as though it could hold its own with fair usage. + +Get as much of the work done as possible while the clay is plastic, and +with a little practice a modelled design can be finished entirely while +the clay is damp. In fact, the work is better when wrought from the +plastic clay than when finished up with steel tools after the clay is +dry. There is a certain crispness about the modelling when wrought from +plastic clay, which is often wanting in work tooled up when the clay is +hard. To my thinking, the best work is always that which looks as though +it had been thrown off in a happy moment, and which has a certain number +of the tool marks showing, as though the worker were not ashamed to let +his craftsmanship be seen. Work which has been touch and retouched, and +rubbed down and smoothed until all life, vigour, and crispness have +departed from it, looks what it is, amateurish (in the worse sense) and +weak. + +I have had many opportunities of seeing amateurs work during the years I +have been teaching, and I have noticed that they have a mistaken notion +of what finish really is. It certainly does not consist in smoothing the +work until it has the texture of a wax doll, and I have often noticed +that work is often wholly spoilt in the so-called finishing. + +In the subject I am dealing with--modelling in clay--this is +particularly the case, and, reader, I pray you avoid it. I would sooner +you leave the work rough, with all the marks of the tools showing, so +that you get vigour and crispness in your work, than that you should in +your endeavour to efface the marks of the tools make your work tame and +effeminate. + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.--A PLAQUE.] + +In working up the leaves, don't attempt to put many veins in them. +Hardly do more than indicate the centre vein. Nothing looks worse than +to see the various forms covered with a network of minute markings. You +will find, if you try and put in the veins in your modelled tile, your +leaves will not look as though they were veined, but as though some +stiff-legged insect had crawled over the damp clay, and had left its +trail behind it. In putting in the stamens in flowers, you will have to +have recourse to an expedient, for it is evident that you cannot copy +every individual stamen in clay any more than you can make your clay +petals as thin and delicate as nature. You must translate the effect of +nature into clay, and in the case of the stamens you will find it a good +plan to build up the centre of the flower, and then press into it a +pointed stick, repeating the operation until the whole of the centre is +perforated, as it were, like a grater. + +In order to make a contrast between the design and the background, you +can dot or line over the slab upon which the design is lying, so as to +make the surface rough in texture. When the clay is quite dry, which +will take some week or more to effect, you can put any further work +into the design with the steel tool, which must be used to scrape the +clay; for if you exert any pressure upon the dry clay it very soon +chips, and it is almost impossible to repair such damage, and for this +reason: that if you stick on a piece of wet clay to the dry clay, the +moisture of the wet clay is soon absorbed by the dry, and the piece +stuck on immediately falls off. The only chance is to keep damping the +part damaged until the clay all round gets quite moist again, and you +must then model another piece on to the broken part. Dry your work very +slowly at first, to prevent it cracking or warping, and when it seems +quite hard put it into a warmer place, for, though clay may appear hard +on the surface, there is sure to be a good deal of moisture inside, +especially if the clay be thick, and should it be put into a kiln before +the moisture is entirely evaporated, the modelled clay will fly into +minute fragments, and cause incalculable damage to other work in the +kiln. I recommend my readers to put their work into a hot oven two or +three times after it has been drying for two or three weeks, so as to +insure the clay being quite hard. I lost several works through firing +them before they were dry enough.[2] + +The heat that china is put to fix the colours is not sufficient for +baking clay, and it must be sent to some place where underglaze pottery +is fired. This first firing turns the clay into "biscuit," and if any +painting is to be done on it, now is the time to do it. Underglaze or +Barbotine colours should be used, and they should be put on in thin +washes. The whole work must then be glazed and fired. But I shall not +touch further on this part of the subject here, for I must say something +about modelled decoration applied to vases and plaques. + +The plaque or vase to receive modelled decoration must be of the same +degree of dampness, or nearly the same degree of dampness, as the clay +used in modelling, for reasons already stated. You cannot put modelled +decoration on to clay that is dry, or ware that has been fired. To make +a plaque, it is almost necessary to have a plaster mould. You might make +this for yourself by buying a china plaque the shape and size you +require, and filling this plaque with plaster-of-Paris, being careful to +let the plaster come to edge of plaque all round. When the plaster is +dry, trim the edge round, and take it out of plaque. You must now roll +out a flat sheet of clay sufficiently large to cover this plaster mould, +and, by pressing the clay evenly all over the mould, and trimming round +the edges with a knife, you will get a clay plaque sufficiently good to +answer your purpose. Don't attempt to remove the clay immediately from +the plaster, but let it remain on a few hours, to enable the clay to +set. The surface of this plaque may be kept moist by keeping a damp +flannel over it. When the modelling has been started, the damp cloth +must not press upon the modelled portions, but be supported on a wicker +frame. + +It is always better to model direct from nature--and for this reason. By +taking a leaf and pressing it into a piece of clay, and marking it round +with a darning-needle, you get the exact shape of the leaf, and by +pulling off the leaf you can bend the clay impression into any form you +like, and put it upon your clay plaque or vase, pressing it into the +curve you wish it to take. A little very wet clay should be put on back +of leaf, to ensure it sticking to plaque. I have taken as my +illustration (fig. 2) the garden poppy, and if I were modelling it +direct from nature, I should first of all roll out a strip of clay for +the stem, and put this on the plaque so that it makes a graceful curve. +Strip off the leaves one by one, and take impressions in clay, and then +fasten them to plaque, following the natural growth, and yet arranging +them so that the leaves fall into their places agreeably. The back +leaves, instead of being modelled, might be just marked in outline on +the plaque itself. This will give depth to the design. The leaves should +not be put on the plaque flatly, but should be bent and twisted as is +necessary to suggest the growth of nature. The flower will present the +greatest difficulty, as the serrated edges of the petals must be +carefully done. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.--A VASE.] + +In the case of flowers like chrysanthemums, it is necessary to build up +the most prominent flower solidly in clay, putting on the outer petals +separately. The back flower can have the near petals modelled, while the +distant ones can be just indicated on plaque with incised lines. Don't +attempt to copy every petal in clay, which is an impossibility, but try +and get the general effect of the flower in your modelling. Take the +prominent petals first, and put them on in their proper positions, and +the less important petals can then be filled in in the intervening +spaces. This is the plan to adopt in all intricate work. Put down your +principal forms first of all, and you will have little difficulty in +getting in the less important ones, for the principal forms act as +measuring points to the rest of the work, and enable you to preserve +that proportion between the various parts of the design which is +essential in all good designs. It is necessary in modelling to simplify +nature somewhat, for we cannot imitate nature in clay. What we have to +do is to seize upon the principal points, the curves of the stems, the +position, form, and characteristics of the flowers and leaves, and put +them down intelligently and in as telling a manner as possible. Let the +work dry carefully before having it fired, and you can either finish it +up in colours, and have it glazed, or let it remain as it is. I often +used to use my Barbotine colours (see articles on "Barbotine Painting," +in Nos. 440 and 584, vol. iv., of the G.O.P.) for colouring modelled +work and glazed it with my soft glaze. I have also sent some work to the +potteries, and had a coloured glaze put over the whole work. I may here +say that much may be learnt by studying good modelled work, and even +copying some stone or wood carving in clay. The pottery of Della Robbia +and Palissy should be studied whenever the student has the opportunity +of so doing. + +I need not say much as to modelled work or vases. You must have some +shapes sent up from the potteries in the "green" state, for it is almost +impossible for amateurs to "throw" their own vases on a wheel. Space +forbids me to describe the potter's wheel, but visitors to the Health +Exhibition two years ago had the opportunity of seeing a potter at work, +which is much better than reading about one. Those adventurous spirits +who wish to try "throwing" vases, should get a small wheel from the +potteries (it will cost, including carriage, about £8), and have a few +lessons from a practical potter. In the meantime, get some firm to +procure for you a few unbaked vases, and when you receive them it will +be necessary to wrap them up in damp flannel for a day or two, so that +the modelled work will stick on the vase. Let the shape of the vases be +very plain and simple, with a good broad surface to receive the modelled +decoration. I have chosen as the illustration (fig. 3) the blackberry, +as it is a very ornamental plant and one familiar to all readers. Throw +on your stalk first of all, letting it wrap round the vase, and so place +it that the leaves, flowers, and fruit can spring from it so as to be +seen to the best advantage. The stalks might be placed in such a way as +to form handles. Get a certain quaintness into the modelling, and don't +be too intent upon imitating nature, for, do what you will, you will +find it impossible to accomplish this. Therefore, be content to decorate +your vase with a graceful spray of bramble, with all essential +characteristics of the plant indicated, and the general "swing" of the +plant expressed in your work. Model each part separately, either by +pressing the leaves into clay and marking them round, or by modelling +pure and simple, and then fasten the various parts on to the vase with +diluted clay. Don't let any part of the work stand out too prominently; +for not only will the shape of the vase be destroyed, but there is +always much more liability to damage if the design be very prominent +than when it just lies, as it were, closely to the surface of the vase. +And yet it is not necessary to put everything perfectly flat on the +vase. The stems, for instance, can be raised in places, so that there is +a space between the stem and vase; and so with leaves, flowers, and +other details. + +It will be seen that I make the stems form an ornamental rim round the +vase and also round the neck. Dry the vase very slowly, and in sending +it to be fired, wrap plenty of cotton wool around it so that no pressure +can be exerted upon any portion of the modelling. This applies with +equal force to all modelled work. Red terra-cotta vases decorated with +modelling, and merely baked, are most effective. Terra-cotta vases +should not be too small; the larger they are the more effective is +appearance in a room. I have some more than two feet high, and when +filled with dried rushes, etc., they fill up a corner charmingly. + +As a general rule let your modelled work be drawn to a natural size, and +let it be rather over than under the natural size, for if modelled work +is smaller than nature, the effect is apt to be petty and insignificant. +Birds and insects can often be introduced with advantage. + +I have recently been modelling some large works, using clay employed in +making drain tiles, and having them fired in an ordinary brick kiln. In +fact, I started some of my work with large size drain tiles, which I +obtained when they were quite wet, and by pulling up the top and +spreading it out a little, and putting a slab of clay on the bottom, I +obtained cylindrical vases, upon which I modelled some decoration; but +as the subject is one of peculiar interest, and is somewhat new to my +readers, I must just reserve a few remarks upon this subject for another +occasion, when I will give sketches of some of the vases I have recently +been modelling. This work is within the reach of everyone, especially my +country readers, for there are few villages of any size that have not a +brick kiln in their vicinity, and for large work, such as ornamental +flower-pots, vases for holding bulrushes, and garden vases, this is most +admirably adapted. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[2] As will be seen, the tile design, fig. 1, is what is termed a "bas +relief," _i.e._, the forms in many cases are only just relieved from the +ground, and only here and there are any of the forms in entire relief. + +[Illustration] + + + + +LOVE ON, LOVE EVER. + +BY RUTH LAMB. + +"Love not, love not, ye hapless sons of earth." + + + How world-worn must have been the weary heart + When this sad strain belied its noblest part! + What! Bid us cease to love! Why life were pain + If this best attribute were given in vain. + + Cease not to love. O, wherefore shouldst thou scorn + The flowers thy path beside, to cull the thorn? + Or heed the man who, all unblest with sight, + Counsels his fellow-man to shun the light? + + Gazing around, 'tis ever hard to trace + The Maker's image in the Creature's face. + Seek it not there. That image wouldst thou prove, + Know the Divine gleams through our works of love. + + If cruel Death a dear one rend away, + Let thy love follow; do not with the clay + Bury thy heart. Soar higher. Wherefore bow? + Yesterday's mortal is immortal now. + + If thy life's labour meet with scant return, + Thou who hast wrought it should'st be last to mourn. + Nay more, rejoice. Each unpaid debt of love + Is so much treasure garnered up above. + + Let cold ingratitude bring no dismay, + But rather aid thee on thy heavenward way. + Work on, love on, aye to increase the debt; + Thy God is not unrighteous to forget. + + + + +DRESS: IN SEASON AND IN REASON. + +BY A LADY DRESSMAKER. + + +The extreme warmth of September has naturally postponed ideas of winter, +and our preparations are generally very backward. In fact, at the end of +September many people would have said that they knew nothing whatever +about new things, and that they did not want them either, and the secret +of this indifference would have been attributable to the weather. It is +to be hoped that we shall have a seasonable winter, less cold and +disagreeable than the last. + +During my visit to Paris I found but little to chronicle in the way of +winter novelties. The chief changes seemed to be in materials and their +designs. Checks are in high favour, and it is said they will supersede +stripes; and last year, when I was there at this season, they said much +the same thing, but this year they seemed more determined to vote +stripes old-fashioned. To tell the truth, I think the Parisians, and the +women in France generally, are great admirers of plaids, and do not find +stripes becoming, simply because they are usually very short and stout. +Englishwomen, who are tall and stout, like them because they decrease +their apparent size, and give an effect of length while decreasing +breadth. On tall people plaids have a bad effect. + +[Illustration: AUTUMN CLOAKS, ULSTERS, AND GOWNS.] + +Rough-faced materials constitute the majority of those prepared, and +plain stuffs are still united with plaided and striped ones in the same +dress; but this is not an absolute rule this year, for some dresses are +entirely of either plaids or stripes, or else are of plain material +only. Many of the materials are plain, with a bordering at one edge of +plaid. For instance, a grey of rough-faced stuff had a bordering of a +large check in lines of a paler grey, a little relief being given by +pale lines of a clear Naples-yellow. The effect was quiet and subdued by +the roughness of the surface of the cloth. With this gown the underskirt +was made of the plaid material, quite plain, and the overskirt of the +bordered part was draped above it in simple straight long folds, the +plaid part being at the lower edge of the overskirt. The bodice was of +the plain, and it had a plastron, or waistcoat front, of the plaid. The +buttons (as are many in use this year) are of smoked pearl, and are very +small for the fronts of gowns and larger for the jacket-bodices. +Bretelles of velvet are used as trimmings to the bodices of these rough +woollens, and the collars and cuffs are almost invariably of the same +material, which seems likely to retain its popularity through the +winter. The velvet collars are both useful and becoming, and, in +addition, they save white trimmings at the neck. We rather rejoice in +our emancipation from that bondage, and I hear many people say they will +never resume it again, now they have once found that they can look well +without the once inevitable white collar or frill. The tendency in every +woman's mind who is possessed of ordinary good sense is to simplify +everything connected with clothes, and I feel sure we shall all be +healthier and happier when we have banished many things from our +wardrobes which we now think absolutely needful. + +"Dr. Jaeger's sanitary woollen clothing," about which I have so often +written in praise, has raised up some rival manufactures amongst our +English makers, who have long been famous for their merino or lambswool +stuffs. Pure woollen under-garments in England have always been thought +to wear and to wash badly, and much of this has probably been owing to +the fact that the washing was very bad and that no one before Dr. Jaeger +ever tried washing woollens scientifically, so as to take out the grease +and perspiration, and not to harden the material at the same time. By +Jaeger's method this is done with lump ammonia and soap. The soap is cut +into small pieces and boiled into a lather with water, and the lump +ammonia is then added. This lather is used at about 100° Fahrenheit, and +the clothes must not be rubbed, but allowed to soak for about an hour in +the water, and must then be drawn backwards and forwards repeatedly in +the bath till clean. Three waters are to be used, the two after the +first lather being of the same heat, and of pure clean water. This +leaves the clothes delightfully soft and supple, and their wearing +qualities suggest nothing further as an improvement. + +Some of the new English underclothing is very light and good, and claims +to be of pure merino-wool. It is of varying thickness, and many ladies, +both young and old, are adopting it for combinations; these and one +petticoat forming the whole of the clothing. Of course, the thickness of +these garments is to be suited to the season, and the gossamer clothing +manufactured for the warm season leaves nothing to be desired in its +lightness and apparent coolness. + +[Illustration: BY THE LAKE SIDE WITH THE BOATS.] + +One does not associate thick materials with great heat, and the mere +look of thick wool would make one begin to feel hot, however foolish +it may sound to say so. When the skin becomes used to wearing wool it +will be found more comfortable than either cotton or linen, and we, +moreover, avoid the chance of chills after being over-heated. I know +several people who date their almost perfect immunity from colds to the +use of woollen underclothing, who previously had been martyrs to colds +and coughs, and had been constantly imprisoned in the house during quite +mild seasons. In England the climate (need I say so?) is fickle and +changeable, and, singular to say, we may be, and many people are, +apparently wrapped up carefully and seasonably, and yet we may all err +on every hygienic point, in regard to the weight and porosity of +materials. + +So far as I can see in the newest styles, the loose-fronted bodices have +it all their own way. Many of them only fasten at the throat and waist, +either large buttons or handsome clasps being used. These jackets +stretch open over the front to show a full waistcoat, this latter being +a scarf long enough to continue below the waist and round it at either +side, so as to form a sort of sash, showing under the edge of the bodice +and ending under the long coat-tails at the back in ends or a bow. + +The newest bonnets are still high in the front, or, if not high +themselves, the trimmings are high. The horseshoe crowns which were +introduced in the summer bid fair to become extremely popular, and the +stringless bonnet will be in vogue as long as possible, and I have no +doubt many people will wear it through the winter, too. Beaver bonnets +are announced to take the place of kid or felt, and I have seen some +black beaver crowns with open-work jet fronts, which appeared +incongruous. + +Leaves of all bright hues, the bramble and its berries, the blackberry, +and the virginian-creeper, are likely to be in great favour for +trimmings this autumn. These will be used even upon velvet and beaver +bonnets. + +There is a very strong feeling in many quarters in favour of restoring +the "princess" cut of dress to favour. In a letter from a lady, it is +very wisely said, in writing to a contemporary, "For active exercise, a +dress ought to be cut all in one--'princess,' as the milliners call +it--and so arranged in the skirt that there is no drapery which will +catch in things, come unstitched, and look untidy; everything wants to +be taut and trim, like tailor's work. But even the ladies' tailors will +insist upon making a skirt and little jacket-bodice, instead of a dress +in one piece. It is almost impossible to use the arms freely--to go out +in a sailing-boat, for instance, and help in its management--or, in +fact, to raise the arms high, without causing a hiatus between the two +parts of the garment at the sides of the waist. I have noticed this +happen so often, even with smart tailor-made gowns, the wearer being +generally blissfully unconscious of the accident, that I feel bound to +draw attention to it. + +"It was curious to note the awful revelations made recently by a storm +of wind on an elevated promenade by the sea. Every steel stood out in +bold relief even under the most _bouffante_ drapery. Upper-skirts broke +away from the under, and displayed the sorry fact that the latter were +only shams, formed of lining-calico, with patches of good material put +in here and there, where the over-garment was cut open. One neat +tailor-gown revealed the cotton back to the pretty waistcoat, a pretence +which is carried out in every suit of clothes made for men, but which +seemed an aggravated offence to art in a well-dressed woman. It was +comforting to turn from such sartorial mistakes to a group of young +girls sensibly clad in simple gowns, guiltless of pretence, of steels, +or _tournures_. Gathered bodices and full plain skirts, confined by +broad sashes, combined the elements of grace and utility, and exhibited +no foolish attempt to distort and pervert nature." + +I have given the full extract, as it contains much matter for thought +for my readers, both young and middle-aged. I suppose everyone read with +interest the celebration of the centenary of M. Chevreul, the great +French chemist, who has been for years a great student of colour, and to +whom we owe many alterations, inventions, and suggestions in dyes and +colours. Trade has been assisted and developed by his researches, and +the subject of colour harmonies has been placed by him in the position +and basis of a science. When we admire the loveliness of our coloured +materials, and notice the wonderful improvements of late years, we women +may thank the industry and talent of M. Chevreul. I put in a long +quotation from him some months ago, and it may interest some of my +readers to hear that M. Chevreul has attained his hundredth year as a +total abstainer, but drank his own health in a glass of champagne, +tasted for the first time! + +[Illustration: A LADY'S PYJAMA.] + +From a recently-published book I gather the following ideas, and as they +coincide with what I am always impressing on my readers with reference +to tight dresses and stays, I quote them gladly, as showing that there +are other sensible women in the world, a class which I hope will every +day increase:--"If you lace tightly, nothing can save you from acquiring +high shoulders, abnormally large hips, varicose veins in your legs, and +a red nose. Surely such penalties, to say nothing of heart disease, +spinal curvature, and worse, are sufficiently dreadful to deter either +maids or matrons from unduly compressing their waists? No adult woman's +waist ought to measure less in circumference than twenty-four inches at +the smallest, and even this is permissible to slender figures only. The +rule of beauty is that the waist should be twice the size of the throat. +Therefore, if the throat measure twelve and a half inches, round the +waist should measure twenty-five. The celebrated statue know as the +'Venus de Medici,' the acknowledged type of beauty and grace, has a +waist of twenty-seven inches, the height of the figure being only five +feet two inches." + +And, while on this subject, I must mention that some new stays, made of +elastic material, have recently been advertised, which I should imagine +were comfortable. Dr. Jaeger also has an elastic knitted bodice on his +list, which is in reality a description of stays, and would afford +sufficient support to a slight figure. + +The illustrations to our dress instructions of this month show the +prevailing characteristics of the gowns of the month, and also +demonstrate how little change there is in them. As the majority of the +community is still moving about at this season, most of the dress +thought about and worn is suitable for travelling, as well as autumn. +Now that we no longer think it needful to put on all our old clothes and +to make our appearance grotesque, as was formerly the case, we very +frequently follow the French and American plan, and have a special dress +made for the tour we are about to undertake, which will do for day wear, +as well as for journeying while we are away; then, furnished with a +second nice black silk or satin for very best occasions, we are +sufficiently well clad for every purpose. A dust cloak, travelling +cloak, and short jacket are added, and some wise people take their fur +capes; in fact, for short expeditions of a month or six weeks we do not +like large trunks nor encumbrances, so we curtail all our wants, and are +so much the happier, having less anxiety and worry. In addition to all +this, we save our shillings in fees, and charges for over-weight, very +considerably, and, when we are rid of the heavy trunks, last, not least, +we break no backs. + +While I am on this topic, I must mention that the late Exhibition (the +Healtheries) was of great assistance to travellers in showing how much +can be done to decrease weight and bulk in every way, and setting wits +to work to improve in all directions. Thus we have wonderfully improved +waterproofed cloaks, hygienic boots and shoes; and the improvement in +trunks and bags is immense, in addition to their moderation in price. + +The greatest unanimity prevails with regard to the small jackets, which +seem patronised by young girls, as well as married women of every age. +They are generally loose-fronted, but tight-fitting at the back, the +fronts being lined with coloured silk. Many of them are braided, some +gold braid being used, and many have a flat braided plastron in the +front to button over and give a double-breasted effect. Serge in all +hues seems very much liked, but the most popular are dark navy-blue and +cream-white. Short cloaks, with sling-sleeves and hoods, are very much +worn, also short mantelettes, like our paper-pattern for last month. +These may be made in the material of the dress. + +This autumn I must again mention the numbers of slightly full bodices of +the "Garibaldi" and "Norfolk jacket" class that this season has brought +out, to be worn with skirts of different materials. The different +ladies' tailors of renown have taken up this idea, and it is probable +that we shall see them greatly worn during the winter season. Some of +these have a yoke, and some have a straight band on the shoulders, into +which they are fulled. They are made in flannel, linen, and twilled +silk, in all colours, striped, spotted, and plain, and with them the +becoming fashion of the full basque has come in. Yoked bodices will be a +decided winter style. + +With these bodices there is generally a turned-down collar and long +cuffs of velvet, and the belt should be also of velvet. In other cases +the belt matches the full bodice, and is of moiré or Petersham ribbon. + +The fancy for stripes as well as plaids is shown by the dresses in the +illustration of the autumn fashions. The figure standing in the centre +of our boating picture at the English lakes, shows a blue flannel or +serge, made up with a striped material. The vest and revers show the +stripe as well as the underskirt. The back of this dress is shown by +one of the distant figures. The other wears one of the new blouse +bodices, which will be the style of the winter. In the larger of our +illustrations is shown the general tendency of the day. The cloaks and +ulsters are of plaid, and there is but little change in the shapes. The +girl in the sailor's hat shows one of the full white under-vests, the +jacket being almost of a Breton style. The edge is braided, and so is +one panel at the side of the skirt. The two bonnets, one in each +picture, show one with strings and one without. They are not quite so +high, and both have the horseshoe crown, which, as the last summer +novelty, bids fair to be adopted for the autumn and winter. + +The pattern for this month will, I hope, be a surprise, as well as a +great comfort, to those of my readers who select it, and who wish to +attain to the greatest amount of comfort and hygienic advantages in +their underclothing. The pattern in question is a combination nightgown, +or lady's "pyjama," and is a novelty which will be found of much value +and comfort. It consists of five pieces--front, back, lower back, and +two sleeve pieces. The method of putting together is carefully indicated +by marks in the pattern, and no difficulty will be experienced in the +making-up. The amount of material required will be from 4½ to 5 yards, +and calico, flannel, or swansdown, or the new cotton flannel, may, any +of them, be used to make it. For the winter season it will be found to +supply a great increase in warmth, and, to the invalid, a great comfort, +as it fits closely, will not form creases, nor "ruck up," as the +ordinary nightgown always does, to the discomfort of the wearer. + +Each of the patterns may be had of "The Lady Dressmaker," care of Mr. H. +G. Davis, 73, Ludgate-hill, E.C., price 1s. each. It is requested that +the addresses be clearly given, and that postal notes, crossed so as to +be eligible only to go through a bank, may be sent, as so many losses +have occurred through the sending of postage stamps. The patterns +already issued can always be obtained, as "The Lady Dressmaker" shows +constantly in her articles how they can be made use of. + +The following is a list of those already issued:--April, braided +loose-fronted jacket; May, velvet bodice; June, Swiss belt and full +bodice, with plain sleeves; July, mantle; August, Norfolk or pleated +jacket; September, housemaid's or plain skirt; October, combination +garment (underlinen); November, double-breasted out-of-door jacket; +December, zouave jacket and bodice; January, princess under-dress +(under-linen, under-bodice, and skirt combined); February, polonaise +with waterfall back; March, new spring bodice; April, divided skirt and +Bernhardt mantle with sling sleeves; May, Early English bodice and yoke +bodice for summer dress; June, dressing jacket, princess frock, and +Normandy peasant's cap, for a child of four years; July, Princess of +Wales' jacket-bodice and waistcoat for tailor-made gown; August, bodice +with guimpe; September, mantle with stole ends and hood. October, +"pyjama" or nightdress combination with full back. + + + + +THE SHEPHERD'S FAIRY. + +A PASTORALE. + +BY DARLEY DALE, Author of "Fair Katherine," etc. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Meanwhile, Mrs. Shelley had washed and dressed her own three boys, and +had introduced the little stranger to the two elder, Charlie, the baby, +being already on intimate terms with his foster sister, for whose sake +he had to submit to much less attention than had hitherto fallen to his +share, for which reason he was unusually cross this morning. Willie, the +second boy, the living image of his father, was barely three years old, +and too young to pay much attention to the baby, or to understand that +it had arrived in an unusual way; but Jack, the eldest boy, quite took +it in, and stood lost in admiration of the wonderful baby with its +beautiful clothes, so unlike Charlie's, and the lovely coral and bells, +as his mother showed them all to him. Jack was five years old, a tall, +strong child for his age, and very like his mother in face; he had her +quick temper, too, though Mrs. Shelley had hers pretty well under +control, while little Jack often got into trouble by giving way to his. +Nothing ever escaped Jack's notice; he was always all ears and eyes, and +he took in every detail of the strange baby's belongings as +intelligently as his mother could have done, and, to her joy, for she +was by no means sure what kind of a welcome Jack, who resented the +arrival of little Charlie, saying, "Mother didn't want anyone else to +love her when she had him," would give to the strange baby, he was +enchanted with it, and was as anxious as Mrs. Shelley herself to keep +it. + +"It is the fairies' baby; they brought it, didn't they, mother? We will +always, always keep it, won't we?" + +"I don't quite know yet, Jack; father says perhaps we shall have to send +it away," said Mrs. Shelley. + +"It shan't go away. How dare father say so? He is a wicked man to want +to send it away," cried the boy, with flashing eyes and crimson cheeks. + +"Jack, I am ashamed of you; you must not speak of your father in that +way; if he says it is to go away it must go, whether we like it or no." + +Jack hung his head and hid his face on his mother's shoulder, while she, +remembering how indignant she had been with the shepherd for hinting at +sending it away the night before, stooped and kissed her boy's curly +head, and Jack raised his head again and renewed his attentions to the +baby. + +"What a pretty little thing it is; see how it holds my finger. I think +it will love me, mother, though it is not my real sister. Oh! do make +father keep it, will you?" + +For the first time since Mrs. Shelley had had the baby, she now +hesitated about keeping it; the boy had unconsciously struck a wrong +chord, and his mother, with a prophetic instinct, coupled with a quick +imagination, for a moment saw that it was possible this little stranger +who, as Jack had already grasped, was not his real sister, might, in +future years, destroy the harmony and peace of the home circle. But it +was only a momentary hesitation; the thought flashed across her mind and +vanished again, almost as quickly as it had come. Could she have known +how true that prophetic instinct was, would she not have gone counter to +all her own inclinations, and disregarded all Jack's wishes and prayers, +rather than have run the risk of introducing strife into her peaceful +household? As it was, the motherly pity she felt for the baby was +stronger at the moment than the foreboding light which had flashed +across the distant future, and she answered hurriedly-- + +"I must go and see Mr. Leslie first, dear, and hear what he says; do you +think you could take care of Charlie while I am gone with the baby? I +shall take Willie with me, or he will be getting into mischief." + +Jack, proud to be of use to his mother, professed his ability to look +after Charlie, privately regretting it was not the beautiful strange +fairies' baby which was to be left under his charge. + +"Jack, I can't be back before the clock has struck twelve; it is now +half-past ten, so it will strike twice before I come back, do you +understand; and both the hands will have to be on the twelve at the top, +do you see? So now, if it seems a long time, do not be frightened, I +shall be back soon after twelve. If baby cries, rock the cradle, but +don't try to take him out; if he sleeps you may wash the potatoes for +dinner. Now, good-bye," and Mrs. Shelley, with the infant in her arms +and Willie running by her side, set off to the Rectory, while Jack stood +at the door watching her out of sight. + +The first half-hour passed quickly enough. The baby slept, and Jack +washed the potatoes, and was delighted when the clock struck eleven. But +the next hour was interminably long, and little Jack got very tired of +rocking Charlie, who was awake now, and would scream every time his +brother stopped rocking. Every few minutes Jack ran to the door to see +if his mother was coming, and then ran back and rocked violently at the +cradle. At last he thought he heard footsteps, and, running to look, +saw, not his mother, but Dame Hursey, making her way towards the house. + +Now, Jack did not care about Dame Hursey's visits even when his mother +was at home. He was half afraid of the witch-like old woman, and to have +a visit from her while he was alone was the last thing he desired, so he +came in quickly and banged the door, hoping she would think they were +all out and go away, if only he could keep Charlie quiet. But Dame +Hursey had seen and heard the door shut, and so, after knocking two or +three times without any result, she quietly lifted the latch and walked +in, while Jack, who was kneeling by the cradle, looked up, half +defiantly, half frightened. + +"Mother is out; there is no one at home but me," said Jack, sharply. + +"Oh, is she? Well, I'll sit and rest a bit till she comes in. Who have +you got there in that cradle?" + +"Charlie, my new brother," said Jack. + +"And where is the fairies' baby? Ah! you see, I know all about it. I +know everything; there is no keeping secrets from me. That is the shawl +it was brought in, isn't it, now?" said Dame Hursey, rising and +examining minutely the Indian shawl in which the baron had wrapped his +daughter, and which was lying on a chair. + +Jack, more convinced than ever that Dame Hursey was a witch, thought +perhaps she might be able to tell him where the fairies had brought the +baby from if he were civil to her, so he answered all her questions and +described minutely all the baby's belongings. + +"Ah! well, it is the Pharisees you have to thank for bringing her here. +Mind you all take care of her, and one of these fine days she'll turn +into a beautiful princess and make you all very rich; but if you talk +much about her the fairies will be angry and take her away. You tell +your mother I said so; I can't wait any longer." + +And Dame Hursey, who had been prying about the kitchen to see if she +could find any other belongings of this mysterious baby, took her +departure, much to Jack's joy. + +Shortly after she left Mrs. Shelley came home, and Jack was so full of +Dame Hursey's visit and her account of the fairies' child that he forgot +to ask the result of his mother's interview with the rector, while Mrs. +Shelley, on the other hand, was not at all pleased to find Dame Hursey +had been prying about her cottage in her absence, and congratulated +herself on not having left any of the baby's little garments about, for +she might never have found them again if she had. + +The next day the rector called and had a long talk with the shepherd and +his wife about the baby, though he could throw but little light upon it, +except, of course, to utterly discredit the ridiculous notion that the +fairies had brought it. That it belonged to rich people was clear from +its clothes; and to foreigners, from the coronet, which was certainly +not English. More the rector could not say, except that its parents +evidently wanted to get rid of it, and had connived at placing it on the +shepherd's doorstep. + +As to keeping it, that was a point entirely for the shepherd and his +wife to decide. If they chose to send it to the workhouse, no one could +blame them for doing so. He doubted exceedingly anyone ever claiming it, +but he advised Mrs. Shelley to lock up all its clothes and things in +case of their being needed for identification at any future period. He +also counselled them, if they thought of keeping the child, to weigh the +matter well before they decided, as it would be cruel kindness to take +it in for a time and then tire of it and send it to the union. + +But John Shelley was not a man to do this, as his wife well knew. If he +decided to keep the child he would do his duty by it, and go to the +workhouse himself before he suffered that to do so. All that day John +was very thoughtful, but when he came in to supper that night he told +Mrs. Shelley he had made up his mind, and they would keep the baby and +bring it up as their own daughter. Here, however, Mrs. Shelley raised an +objection. + +"We will keep it, by all means, John, but we can't bring a delicate +little thing like this up as we shall our own strong boys, who must work +for their living. This child may be claimed any day by its parents, so +we must try and have it educated like a lady when it gets old enough." + +John was inclined to dispute the wisdom of this; but as its education +was a thing of the far future, he very wisely thought it was useless to +discuss it, and resolved to let matters shape themselves, feeling sure +the baby would take its own place as it grew older. One matter puzzled +the good shepherd sorely. He was most particular in having his own +children baptised when they were a month old, and they could not tell +whether this baby had been baptised or no, though the rector thought its +parents were most likely Roman Catholics, in which case it would be sure +to have been christened, as it was two or three months old. + +The next question was, what was it to be called? For, if baptised, they +had no means of discovering its name. But here Jack came to the rescue. + +"Let's call her Fairy, mother. Dame Hursey says she is a fairy, and it +is a pretty name." + +"So it is, my son; and though she is no fairy, but a real child like +you, we will call her Fairy. It is a very good name for her, and when +she is old enough we will tell her why," said the shepherd. + +And so Fairy was the little stranger called as long as she lived in the +shepherd's family. + +(_To be continued._) + + + + +A PRINCESS WHO LIVED TWO LIVES. + +A ROMANCE OF HISTORY. + + +There was no lovelier woman in all the Russias than Carolina, the wife +of Alexis, eldest son and presumptive heir to Peter the Great. Her +beauty was not only that of the body, for her sweet temper and gentle +disposition made her beloved by all who were brought in contact with +her. The only being who did not yield to the charms of her surpassing +beauty and amiability was the one who ought to have prized her above all +others--her husband. His nature was far too coarse and brutal to +appreciate the treasure that he possessed, and the more he saw how +universally beloved his wife was, the more did she become an object of +aversion to him. For some time he treated her with cold neglect, but by +degrees he became more brutal in his behaviour, until one day, when she +offended him in some trifling respect, he dealt her an inhuman blow +which stretched her, apparently lifeless, at his feet. Well pleased at +being delivered so easily from what he only regarded as a hateful +burden, he gave orders that she should be buried with all due pomp, and +hastened away to another part of the kingdom. + +But when her ladies of honour came to raise the unhappy princess, they +found that she still breathed. Under the devoted attention of the +Countess of Konigsmark, who had always been her confidential attendant, +she slowly won her way back to life, and this while her funeral +obsequies were being celebrated with the greatest pomp throughout the +length and breadth of Russia, while the principal courts of Europe were +mourning her premature decease, and while her unnatural husband was +drowning the remembrance of his horrible crime in revelries and +excesses of all kinds. None knew that she was still alive but the +Countess of Konigsmark and one or two other of her most devoted +adherents. They kept her concealed from everyone; for well they knew +that Alexis, should he hear of her recovery, would take measures to rid +himself of her effectually. Acting under their advice, the princess +collected all the valuables she was able to lay her hands on, and, in +company with an old domestic, who assumed the character of her father, +set out for Paris. Here, however, she felt still within reach of Alexis, +and so, with her supposed father, she set sail for Louisiana, where the +French had lately formed extensive colonies. They settled down in New +Orleans, and Carolina began to rapidly recover her health and beauty. + +A young man, by name Moldask, who held a Government appointment in New +Orleans and who had spent many years in Russia thought that he +recognised in the beautiful stranger the princess who had been the +brightest star of the Muscovite Court. However, he could not believe +that the highborn lady of whose death he had heard and the daughter of +the feeble old man who had lately arrived from France were the same +person, wonderful though the resemblance between them might be. He kept +his ideas secret, but made himself so useful and agreeable to the +strangers, that finally they settled to cast in their lot with his, and +live under the same roof. Before the lapse of many months the news of +Alexis' death reached New Orleans. Moldask noticed the agitation with +which his friends received it, and told them that their secret was his. +They did not attempt a denial; so he offered to sacrifice his private +fortune, throw up his position in New Orleans, and take Carolina back to +Moscow. This offer she would hear nothing of. She thanked Moldask again +and again for his noble generosity, but expressed her fixed +determination not to revisit the scene of all that had been most +unpleasant in her life. She begged him not to betray her secret, and he +readily promised to keep it inviolate. The truth was that he had lost +his heart to the widow of Czar Peter's son. Respect, however, controlled +his feelings. He knew how exalted was her real station compared to his, +and resolved to conceal his love. + +Time passed on, and one autumn evening a pararalytic stroke carried off +Carolina's pseudo-father. After this it was, of course, impossible that +she and Moldask should continue to inhabit the same house. He came to +her on the morning after her faithful old friend's funeral, and +explained that he must seek a new abode unless she would so far cast +away all thoughts of her former station as to consent to call him +husband. The princess, who had long regarded him with feelings warmer +than those of mere friendship, agreed to link her fate with his, and +from now began the happiest period of her so far troubled life. Their +union was blessed by the advent of a little girl; nothing seemed wanting +to render her happiness complete. + +Years rolled by, and Moldask was attacked by a disease which baffled the +skill of the New Orleans doctors. His wife was determined that he should +have the best medical advice, and so persuaded him to sell all his +possessions and embark for Paris. Their journey was not in vain; the +skill of the Parisian physicians restored Moldask to good health, and he +obtained employment in a department of the French Government. + +One day, as Carolina was walking in the public gardens with her little +girl, she met the son of her faithful friend, the Countess of +Konigsmark. She recognised him instantly, and, fearing that he might +know her, tried to brush past him with averted head. The Marshal, +however, was struck with her appearance, and, turning round, followed +her until she sat down beneath some trees. The instant that he caught a +fair sight of her he recognised his former mistress, and quickly +approaching, bent his knee and carried her hand to his lips. She +implored him not to divulge her secret, but to come with her to her +home, and hear how she had fared since Alexis had, as he thought, killed +her. The Marshal consented to accompany her; he listened with interest +to her tale, and when he had heard it to the end announced his intention +of informing the King of France, that her highness might be restored to +her proper position and honours. Carolina, however, was quite +determined that this should not be. She begged the Marshal to keep her +secret for one week, as her husband had certain negotiations, which +would be ruined if her identity were disclosed. This he consented to do, +and Carolina dismissed him, with the assurance that on that day week he +should be definitely informed of her wishes in the matter. + +On the appointed day the Marshal found that the princess and her husband +had left their home. However, he succeeded in tracing them, and told the +king of the noble lady who was then in his dominions. His Majesty +entered into negotiations with the Empress Maria Theresa, with a view to +deciding upon the manner in which her august aunt should be treated. The +upshot of these negotiations was a most tender letter from the Empress +to Carolina, asking her to make the Austrian court her home, and +promising to load her husband and herself with honours and distinctions. +But the happy wife and mother felt that the life she had been leading +for the last few years was preferable in every way to the artificial +existence of a court, and refused her niece's generous offer. It was +renewed again and again; but nothing could shake her determination. + +For many years she led a life of the utmost happiness, and then death +deprived her of both husband and daughter. Maria Theresa renewed her +offers; but Carolina preferred to pass the rest of her days in solitude. +She accepted a small pension from the Empress, and retired to a small +cottage at Vitry, near Paris. After a quiet existence here for some few +years more she passed away, without ever having regretted her refusal to +rejoin the brilliant circle of a court. + + + + +VARIETIES. + + +CURIOUS FRESCO. + +In the Carthusian Monastery of Garignano, a few miles from Milan, are +some frescoes by Daniel Crespi, of Busto, which are said to be marvels +of art and imagination. One of them is grim enough, at any rate, and +awful. It represents a dead person rising from his bier, to announce to +all whom it might concern that, although they were burying him in the +abode of holiness, and were now adoring him as a saint, he was, as a +fact, condemned to hell. + +Perhaps one of our own famous modern divines was thinking of this fresco +when he declared that one great source of surprise, to those who went to +heaven, would be to find so many there they had not expected to see, and +to _miss_ so many they had thought to meet. + + +"NO' THE DAY, HONEST WOMAN!" + +Dr. John Erskine, a well-known Scottish divine, was remarkable for his +simplicity of manner and gentle temper. He returned so often from the +pulpit minus his pockethandkerchief that Mrs. Erskine at last began to +suspect that the handkerchiefs were stolen by some of the old women who +lined the pulpit stairs. So both to baulk and detect the culprit she +sewed a corner of the handkerchief to one of the pockets of his coat +tails. Half way up the pulpit stairs the good doctor felt a tug, +whereupon he turned round to the old woman whose was the guilty hand, to +say, with great gentleness and simplicity:-- + +"No' the day, honest woman, no' the day. Mrs. Erskine has sewed it in!" + + +A BRAVE WIFE. + +In 1872 a storm overtook a Boston ship on the banks of Newfoundland. The +captain--Captain Wilson--had his shoulder-blade broken by the fall of a +mast, and the first mate and part of the crew were at the same time +disabled. + +No sooner, however, had the captain been carried to his cabin than his +wife, a woman of one-and-twenty, hurried on deck, told the men to work +with a will, and she would take them into port. The wreckage was +cleared, the pumps manned, and the gale was weathered. Then a jury-mast +was rigged, the ship put before the wind, and in twenty-one days she +reached St. Thomas. After repairing damages there, finding her husband +still helpless, the indomitable woman navigated the ship to Liverpool. + +Captain Wilson was never able to resume work, and for seven years his +brave wife supported him and their only child by working as clerk in a +dry goods store. Then he died, and Mrs. Wilson was deservedly appointed +to a custom-house inspectorship by the American Government. + + +OLD FRIENDS.--The world has few greater pleasures than that which two +friends enjoy in tracing back, at some distant time, those transactions +and events through which they have passed together.--_Dr. Johnson._ + + +A RARE COMPANION.--She whom you can treat with unreserved familiarity, +at the same time preserving your dignity and her respect, is a rare +companion, and her acquaintance should be cultivated. + + +THINGS OF VALUE. + + What shines and glitters has its birth + But for the present hour alone; + The real--the thing of truth and worth-- + To all posterity goes down. + + _--Goethe._ + +BEETHOVEN IN GERMANY.--When the German talks of symphonies he means +Beethoven; the two names are to him one and indivisible; his joy, his +pride. As Italy has its Naples, France its Revolution, England its +Navigation, so Germany has its Beethoven symphonies. The German forgets +in his Beethoven that he has no school of painting; with Beethoven he +imagines that he has again won the battles that he lost under Napoleon; +he even dares to place him on a level with Shakespeare.--_Robert +Schumann._ + + +A NEW USE FOR A DOG.--A farmer's daughter in the West of England +received a hairy poodle dog from a friend in town. The unsophisticated +damsel wrote back thanking her friend for the present, and saying that +she found it very handy, when tied to a stick, to clean windows with. + + +THE WORST OF SUCCESS.--She that has never known adversity is but half +acquainted with others or with herself. Constant success shows us but +one side of the world, for, as it surrounds us with friends who will +tell us only our merits, so it silences those enemies from whom alone we +can learn our defects. + + +RIGHTS AND DUTIES.--There is no right without its duties, and no duty +without its rights. + + + + +MERLE'S CRUSADE. + +BY ROSA NOUCHETTE CAREY, Author of "Aunt Diana," "For Lilias," etc. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +MERLE'S LAST EVENING AT HOME. + + +"So it is all settled, Merle." + +"Yes, Aunt Agatha," I returned, briskly, for she spoke in a lugubrious +voice, and as one sad face is enough beside the family hearth, I assumed +a tolerably cheerful aspect. If only Aunt Agatha's eyes would not look +at me so tenderly! + +"Poor child!" she sighed; and then, as I remained silent, she continued +in a few minutes, "I wish I could reconcile myself more to the idea, but +I cannot help feeling a presentiment that you will live to repent this +strange step you are taking." + +I found this speech a little damping, but I bore it without flinching. +One can never set out down some new road without a few friendly missiles +flying about one's ears. "Remember, I told you such and such a thing +would happen if you did not take my advice. I am only warning you for +your good." Alas! that one's dearest friend should be transformed into a +teasing gad-fly! What can one do but go straight across the enemy's +country when the boats are destroyed behind one? I always did think that +a grand action on Xenophon's part. + +"You have not given me your opinion of my new mistress," was my wicked +rejoinder. + +Aunt Agatha drew herself up at this and put on her grandest manner. "You +need not go out of your way to vex me, Merle. I am sufficiently +humiliated without that." + +"Aunt Agatha," I remonstrated; for this was too much for my forbearance, +"do you think I would do anything to vex you when we are to part in a +few days? Oh, you dear, silly woman!" for she was actually crying, "I am +only longing to know what you think of Mrs. Morton." + +"She is perfectly lovely, Merle," she returned, drying her eyes, as I +kissed and coaxed her. "I very nearly fell in love with her myself. I +liked the simple way in which she sat down and talked to me about my old +pupils, making herself quite at home in our little drawing-room, and I +was much pleased with her manner when she spoke about you; it was almost +a pity you came into the room just then." + +"I left you alone for nearly half an hour; please to remember that." + +"Indeed! it did not seem nearly so long. Half an hour! and it passed so +quickly, too. Well, I must say Mrs. Morton is a most interesting woman; +she is full of intelligence, and yet so gentle. She has lost her +baby--did she tell you that? only four months ago, and her husband does +not like her to wear mourning. She is a devoted wife, I can see that, +but I have a notion that you will have some difficulty in satisfying Mr. +Morton; he is very particular and hard to please." + +"I have found out that for myself; he is a man of strong prejudices." + +"Well, you must do your best to conciliate him; tact goes a long way in +these cases. Mrs. Morton has evidently taken a fancy to you, Merle. She +told me over again how her baby boy had made friends with you at once; +she said your manner was very frank and winning, and though you looked +young you seemed very staid and self-reliant." + +"I wish Uncle Keith had heard that. Did she say any more about me, Aunt +Agatha?" + +"No, you interrupted us at that point, and the conversation became more +general; but, my dear, I must scold you about one thing: how absurd you +were to insist on wearing caps. Mrs. Morton was quite embarrassed; she +said she would never have mentioned such a thing." + +"But I have set my heart on wearing them, Aunt Agatha," I returned, very +quickly; "you have no idea how nice I shall look in a neat bib apron +over my dark print gown, and a regular cap such as hospital nurses wear. +I should be quite disappointed if I did not carry out that part of my +programme; the only thing that troubles me is the smallness of my +salary--I mean wages. Thirty pounds a year will never make my fortune." + +"You cannot ask more with a good conscience, Merle; you have never been +out before, and have no experience. Mrs. Morton said herself that her +husband had promised to raise it at the end of six months if you proved +yourself competent; it is quite as much as a nursery governess's +salary." + +"Oh, I am not mercenary," I replied, hastily, "and I shall save out of +thirty pounds a year. I must keep a nice dress for my home visits and +for Sundays, though it is dreadful to think that I shall not always go +to church every Sunday until little Joyce is older; that will be a sad +deprivation." + +"Yes, my poor child, but you must not speak as though this were the only +serious drawback; you will find plenty of difficulties in your position; +even Mrs. Morton confessed that." + +"The world is full of difficulties," I returned, loftily; "there have +been thorns and briars ever since Adam's time. Do you remember your +favourite fable of the old man and the bundle of sticks, Aunt Agatha? I +mean to treat my difficulties in the same way he managed his. I shall +break each stick singly." + +She smiled approvingly at this, and then, as Uncle Keith's knock reached +her ear, she rose quickly and went out of the room. + +The moment I was left alone my assumed briskness of manner dropped into +the mental dishabille that we wear for our own private use and comfort. +Those two had always so much to say to each other that I was sure of at +least half an hour's solitude, and in some moods self is the finest +company. Yes, I had destroyed my boats, and now my motto must be +"Forward!" This afternoon I had pledged myself to a new service--a +service of self-renunciation and patient labour, undertaken--yes, I dare +to say it--for the welfare of the large sisterhood of waiting and +working women. A servant? No, a soldier; for I should be one among the +vanguard, who strive to make a breach in the great fortress of +conventionality. Not that I feared the word service, considering what +Divine lips had said on that subject--"I am among you as one who +serveth--" but I knew how the world shrank from such terms. + +I have always maintained that half the so-called difficulties of life +consist mainly in our dread of other people's opinions; women are +especially trammelled by this bondage. They breathe the atmosphere of +their own special world, and the chill wind of popular opinion blows +coldly over them; like the sensitive plant, they shiver and wither up at +a touch. I believe the master minds that achieve great things have +created their own atmosphere, else how can they appear so impervious to +criticism? How can they carry themselves so calmly, when their +contemporaries are sneering round them? We must live above ourselves and +each other; there is no other way of getting rid of the shams and +disguises of life; and yet how is one who has been born in slavery to be +absolutely true? How is an English gentlewoman to shake off the +prejudices of caste and declare herself free? + +Ah, well! this was the enigma I had set myself to solve. And now the old +life--the protected girl's life--was receding from me; the old guards, +the old landmarks were to be removed by my own hands. Should I live to +repent my rash act, as Aunt Agatha predicted, or should I at some future +time, when I looked back upon this wintry day, thank God, humbly and +with tears of gratitude, that I had courage given me to see the right +and do it, "ad finem fidelis," faithful to the last? + + * * * * * + +I found those last few days of home-life singularly trying. Indeed, I am +not sure that I was not distinctly grateful when the final evening +arrived. When one has to perform a painful duty there is no use in +lingering over it; and when one is secretly troubled, a spoken and too +discursive sympathy only irritates our mental membrane. How could Job, +for example, tolerate the sackcloth and ashes, and, worse still, the +combative eloquence of his friends? + +Aunt Agatha's pathetic looks and pitying words fretted me to the very +verge of endurance. I wished she would have been less mindful of my +comforts, that she would not have insisted on helping me with my sewing, +and loading me with little surprises in the shape of gifts. But for the +bitter cold that kept me an unwilling prisoner by the fireside, I would +have escaped into my own room to avoid the looks that seemed to follow +me everywhere. + +But I would not yield to my inward irritability; I hummed a tune; I even +sang to myself, as I hemmed my new bib aprons, or quilled the neat +border for my cap. Nay, I became recklessly gay the last night, and +dressed myself in what I termed my nurse's uniform, a dark-navy blue +cambric, and then went down to show myself to Uncle Keith, who was +reading aloud the paper to Aunt Agatha. I could see him start as I +entered; but Aunt Agatha's first words made me blush, and in a moment I +repented my misplaced spirit of fun. + +"Why, Merle, how pretty you look! Does not the child look almost pretty, +Ezra, though that cap does hide her nice smooth hair? I had no idea that +dress would be so becoming." But the rest of Aunt Agatha's speech was +lost upon me, for I ran out of the room. Why, they seemed actually to +believe that I was play-acting, that my part was a becoming one! Pretty, +indeed! And here such a strange revulsion of feeling took possession of +me that I absolutely shed a few tears, though none but myself was +witness to this humiliating fact. + +I did not go downstairs for a long time after that, and then, to my +relief, I found Uncle Keith alone; for men are less sharp in some +matters than women, and he would never find out that I had been crying, +as Aunt Agatha would; but I was a little taken aback when he put down +his paper, and asked, in a kind voice, why I had stayed so long in the +cold, and if I had not finished my packing. + +"Oh, yes," I returned, promptly, "everything was done, and my trunk was +only waiting to be strapped down." + +"That is right," he said, quite heartily, "always be beforehand with +your duties, Merle; your aunt tells me you have made up your mind to +leave us in the morning. I should have thought the afternoon or early +evening would have been better." + +"Oh, no, Uncle Keith," I exclaimed, and then, oddly enough, I began to +laugh, and yet the provoking tears would come to my eyes, for a vision +of sundry school domestics arriving towards night with their goods and +chattels, and the remembrance of their shy faces in the morning light +seemed to evoke a sort of dreary mirth; but to my infinite surprise and +embarrassment, Uncle Keith patted me on the shoulder as though I were a +child. + +"There, there; never mind showing a bit of natural feeling that does you +credit; your aunt is fretting herself to death over losing +you--Hir-rumph; and I do not mind owning that the house will be a trifle +dull without you; and, of course, a young creature like you must feel +it, too." And with that he took my hands, awkwardly enough, and began +warming them in his own, for they were blue with cold. If Aunt Agatha +had only seen him doing it, and me, with the babyish tears running down +my face. + +"Why, look here," continued Uncle Keith, cheerily, with a sort of +cricket-like chirp, "we are all as down as possible, just because you +are leaving us, and yet you will only be two or three miles away, and +any day if you want us we can be with you. Why, there is no difficulty, +really; you are trying your little experiment, and I will say you are a +brave girl for venturing on such a brave scheme. Well, if it does not +answer, here is your home, and your own corner by the fireside, and an +old uncle ready to work for you. I can't say more than that, Merle." + +"Oh, Uncle Keith," I returned, sobbing remorsefully, "why are you so +good to me, when I have always been so ungrateful for your kindness?" + +"Nay, nay, we will leave bygones alone," he answered, a little huskily. +"I never minded your tandrums, knowing there was a good heart at the +bottom. I only wished I was not such a dry old fellow, and that you +could have been fonder of me. Perhaps you will understand me better some +day, and----" Here he stopped and cleared his throat, and said +"hir-rumph" once or twice, and then I felt a thin crackling bit of paper +underneath my palm. "It will buy you something useful, my dear," he +finished, getting up in a hurry. A five-pound note, and he had lost so +much money and had to do without so many comforts! Who can wonder that I +jumped up and gave him a penitent hug. + +It was long before I slept that night, and my first waking thoughts the +next morning were hardly as pleasant as usual. A premonitory symptom of +homesickness seized me as I glanced round my little room in the dim, +winter light. Aunt Agatha had made it so pretty; but here a certain +suspicious moisture stole under my eyelids, and I gave myself a resolute +shake, and commenced my toilet in a business-like way that chased away +gloomy thoughts. + +Never had the little dining-room looked more inviting than when I +entered it that morning. One of Uncle Keith's carefully hoarded logs +blazed and crackled in the roomy fireplace, a delicious aroma of coffee +and smoking ham pervaded the room. Aunt Agatha, in her pretty morning +cap, was placing a vase of hothouse flowers some old pupil had sent her +in the centre of the table, and the bullfinch was whistling as merrily +as ever, while old Tom watched him, sleepily, from the rug. I was rather +long warming my hands and stroking his sleek fur, for somehow I could +not bring myself to look or speak in quite my ordinary manner; and +though Uncle Keith did his best to enliven us by reading out scraps from +his newspaper, I am afraid we gave him only a partial attention. When +Uncle Keith had bade me a husky good-bye, and had gone to his office, +Aunt Agatha and I made a grand feint of being busy. There was very +little to do, really, but I considered it incumbent to be in a great +state of activity. I am afraid to say how many times I ran up and down +stairs for articles that were safely deposited at the bottom of my box. +Aunt Agatha put a stop to it at last by taking my hand and putting me +forcibly in Uncle Keith's big chair. + +"Sit there and keep warm, Merle; the cab will not be here for another +half hour; what is the use of our pretending that we are not exceedingly +unhappy? My dear, you are leaving us with a sore heart, I can see that, +and it only makes me love you all the better. Yes, indeed, Merle," for I +was clinging to her now and sobbing softly under my breath; "and however +things may turn out, whether this step be a failure or not, I will +always say that you are a brave girl, who tried to do her duty." + +"Are you sure you think that, Aunt Agatha?" + +Then she smiled to herself a little sadly. + +"You remind me of the baby Merle who was so anxious to help everyone. I +remember you such a little creature, trying to lift the nursery chair, +because your mother was tired; and how you dragged it across the room +until you were red in the face, and came to me rubbing your little fat +hands, and looking so important. 'The chair hurted baby drefful, but it +might hurted poor mammy worser:' that was what you said. I think you +would still hurt yourself 'drefful' if you could help someone else." + +It was nice to hear this. What can be sweeter or less harmful than +praise from one we love? It was nice to sit there with Aunt Agatha's +soft hand in mine, and be petted. It would be long before I should have +a cosy time with her again. It put fresh heart in me somehow; like +Jonathan's taste of honey, "it lightened my eyes," so that when the +final good-bye came, I could smile as I said it, and carry away an +impression of Aunt Agatha's smile too, as she stood on the steps, with +Patience behind her, watching until I was out of sight. I am afraid I am +different to most young women of my age--more imaginative, and perhaps a +little morbid. Many things in everyday life came to me in the guise of +symbols or signs--a good-bye, for example. A parting even for a short +time always appears to me a faint type of that last solemn parting when +we bid good-bye to temporal things. I suppose kind eyes will watch us +then, kind hands clasp ours; as we start on that long journey they will +bid God help us, as with failing breath and, perhaps, some natural +longings for the friends we love, we go out into the great unknown, +waiting until a Diviner Guide take us by the hand. "God help you, poor +soul," we seem to hear them say, and perhaps we hear the drip of their +tears as they say it; but in that other room, who can tell how gently +those human drops will be wiped away, in that place where pain and +trouble are unknown? + +(_To be continued._) + + + + +ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. + + +MISCELLANEOUS. + +IMPERIUM ET LIBERTAS.--There is no question of etiquette in the matter +of the Highland friends of the bridegroom appearing at the wedding in +their national costume. It is only a matter for their own decision and +their friends' permission. + +V. D. V.--You were exceedingly wrong in taking walks with any man +without your parents' permission, and you degraded yourself by enlisting +the aid of a servant to get letters from him unknown to them, and so led +her to do wrong and to act in an untrustworthy way to her master and +mistress. You ought to tell her that you regret having so done, and will +do so no more. + +A DEVONSHIRE DUMPLING says: "I would rather not drink vinegar or raw +lemon-juice, if you do not mind, please." Dear little reader, pray do +not feel uneasy on that score; nothing is further from our wishes! If +your health be so good, leave yourself and your wholesome fat alone. If +out of health, the case is otherwise. Dropsical puffing should be +prescribed for by a doctor. + +ROSS-SHIRE LASSIE.--The 5th October, 1869, was a Tuesday; the 25th +March, 1865, was a Saturday. + +LILY.--The passage you quote may mean that the blessed ones who have +attained to perfect purity in the kingdom of their Father above were +greater than the greatest still on earth. + +A LIVELY GIRL is not likely to "get too stout." She inquires, "What is +the best kind of a _fiancé_ to have?" Judging of her suitability for +assuming the responsibility of selecting one, and of leaving her +mother's sheltering wing, we should reply--a gilt gingerbread man. + +A METEOR.--The Rosicrucians were a mystic brotherhood, made known to the +outer world in certain books published in 1614-15-16. The last book, +published in 1616, was acknowledged by Johann Valentine Andreæ, and +entitled "The Chymische Hochzeit Christiani Rosenkreuz." The former +works are likewise described by him. From these we learn that one +Christian Rosenkreuz, a German noble of the fourteenth century, founded +a brotherhood of seven adepts on his return from the East, and that +among their laws was one that they should each heal the sick gratis (or, +at least, endeavour to do so), should meet annually at a certain secret +place, and adopt the symbol of the _Rose Crux_, or rose springing from a +cross, the device on Luther's seal. In 1622 societies of alchymists at +The Hague and elsewhere assumed this title, and the tenets of the +community were held by Cabalists, Freemasons, and Illuminati, and +professed also by Cagliostro. It is said that a Lodge of Rosicrucians +now exists in London. + +TUMPY.--Our answers depend on the questions and style of the letters +addressed to us. You were right in your surmise. Your writing is +legible, but not sufficiently regular. If you write us a ridiculous +letter we promise you a suitable answer. We are so sorry for your poor +father. Could he not subscribe for _Punch_, or procure a few copies of +the famous "Mrs. Brown" series? + +HIGHLAND MARY inquires, "Who was the author of the first settler, and +where is it?" How can we tell "where it is"? There have been "first +settlers" in every part of the globe. The first part of your letter is +better written than the concluding portion, and gives good promise for a +good running hand by-and-by. + +C. HORSELL.--The lines you send us are very faulty; in fact, are only +badly-rhymed prose; but if it amuses you to write such, do not desist, +as outlets are useful to very young people, and it seems desirable for +them to give vent to their feelings a little. + +NOLENS VOLENS.--Many people do not begin "My dear So-and-So," nor end +with "Yours sincerely," etc., on a postcard, but merely write their +address in full at the top, and the message signed beneath it, with +initials only. But you can do as you like in the matter; there is no +rule. We wonder that, having such suspicions of our honesty, you +continued to read our paper. + +ROUSSEAU and FLOSSY.--We know of no cure for mere nervousness, unless, +as sometimes happens, it passes into a disease, when a doctor should be +consulted. Try to forget yourself in the pleasure of adding to the +enjoyment of others. + +HOPE ATHELING.--_A.E.I._ means "for ever." "I don't think" is a common +colloquialism used by everyone, and is not more incorrect than such +expressions generally are. + +J. S. F.-- + + "Not even the tenderest heart, and next our own, + Knows half the reasons why we smile and sigh," + +is from Keble's "Christian Year," 24th Sunday after Trinity, verse 1. + +MARIE.--The quotation-- + + "A primrose by a river's brim + A yellow primrose was to him, + And it was nothing more," + +is from Wordsworth's poem, "Peter Bell," part i.; stanza 12. + +ERA.--The signification of the bee appearing on the monument of the +Prince Imperial, is that the French royal mantle and standard were +thickly sown with golden bees instead of "Louis flowers" or _Fleurs de +lys_. The origin dates back to the time of the early Egyptians, who +symbolised their kings under this emblem, the honey indicating the +reward they gave to the well-doers, and the sting the punishment they +inflicted on the evil. More than 300 golden bees were found in the tomb +of Childeric, A.D. 1653. Offer your song to some composer. Sometimes +they are in request; more frequently there are more offered than are +required. All depends on the fancy of the composer. Only two questions +are allowed, and the answers given at the discretion of the Editor. We +regret that you have been disappointed. + +[Illustration] + +CISSIE.--You cannot interfere with the laudable work of the rector in +building a school-house for the use of his parishioners; it is his duty. +But the parents of the children will have the right of choice between +this school and your private one. Mourning for a parent lasts a year; +but you are free to wear it longer if you like. + +WINNIE E. L.--You should consult a doctor. We cannot usurp his place, +though we are always willing to give sensible advice on hygienic and +sanitary matters. + +POLLY and OTHERS.--The measurements of a classic figure, as given on +authority, are: height, 5 feet 4½ inches; bust, 32 inches; waist, 24 +inches; 9 inches from under the arm to the waist, with long arms and +neck. The proportions of a larger and more stately woman or girl would +be: height, 5 feet 5 or 6 inches; bust, 36 inches; waist 26½ inches; +hips 35 inches; thick part of arm, 11½ inches; wrist, 6½ inches. The +hands and feet should not be too small. "Polly" will see that no +arrangements are made by judges of true beauty and its lines for waists +of 15 or 16 inches. They are simply deformities. + +BUDDIE.--The book was published anonymously. + +C. B. GLOUCESTER.--Easter Day fell on the 25th March, in 1546, 1641, +1736, 1886, and will fall next time in 1943. Tram, used as a prefix to +way and road, is the last syllable of the name of their inventor, Mr. +Benjamin Outram, who in 1800 made improvements in the system of +railways for common roads, then in use in the North of England. The +first iron tramroad from Croydon to Wandsworth was completed July 24th, +1801. Mr. Outram was the father of the celebrated Indian general, Sir +James Outram. + +WILD HYACINTH.--We know of nothing save to benefit your general health. +The intense perspiration is evidently an effort of nature. Do you take a +tepid bath every morning, and as much exercise as possible? You have +doubtless received your book. + +R. H. P.--We do not think cold and haughty people are at all nice, nor +do we think they could be happy themselves, or make others happy. The +Christian ideal is neither coldness nor haughtiness, but sympathy and +love. You must take care of those long tails at the end of your words in +writing. Better tie them up as the Dutch farmers do the tails of their +cows. They are in writing ugly and useless appendages. + +NANNIE B. and FIDDLESTICKS have our best thanks for their letters. + +ISIS.--We are much obliged for the account of your visit to the Temple, +and we regret we can make no use of it. You will acquire more ease in +writing by constant practice. + +GERTRUDE.--We think the first year you must take what is offered to you +in the way of salary. + +A FIELD OFFICER'S DAUGHTER.--We have perused the two poems, and consider +that they hold some promise of better things, though both are faulty in +construction and rhyme. + +INCONSISTENCY'S paper is too much like a schoolgirl's composition for +our pages; but she evidently tries to think, which is more than many +people do. + +ELSIE.--We never heard any more of the saying about Brighton, than "a +country without trees and a sea without ships," and we have looked for +the original authorship in vain. + +SWEET VIOLETS.--We know of nothing but constant rubbing and the practice +of gymnastics to do your shoulders good. You probably have some trick of +standing crookedly that has helped to make it grow out, such as standing +on one leg, or giving down on one side. + +FOREVER AND EVER writes English very well, though her writing is rather +too pointed to suit English tastes. But at 16 she has plenty of time to +alter it if she likes. + +B. H. M. W.--The lines show much good feeling and affection, but no +poetic talent. + +A WELL WISHER.--Rydal and Loughrigg, a township of England, Co. +Westmoreland, on the Leven, two miles N.W. of Ambleside, celebrated for +its beautiful lake, on the banks of which stands Rydal Mount, long the +residence of the poet Wordsworth. + +MADGE.--We think "Madge" must not worry herself, as she certainly cannot +help people who will not allow themselves to be helped, in her way at +least of assisting them; good advice is generally unpalatable. She must +look on the best side of the matter, and hope that her friend may be +happy and comfortable in her own way. We doubt that you could have +prevented the marriage, as your friend is very likely tired of the +trouble of earning her living, and thinks of marriage as a way of +escape. You must commend both her and her affairs to God, and cease +worrying yourself. + +NELL.--Your mother's brother is your uncle, no matter whether by the +father or the mother. To put the case in another way, your grandfather's +son is your uncle by whatever wife he had, first or fourth. Of course +you could not marry him. See the "table of degrees of affinity" in the +Book of Common Prayer. + +ONE OF OUR GIRLS.--We think that men not much exposed to cold and damp, +and night work, such as sailors and soldiers, do not need the warmth nor +stimulant obtained by smoking any more than women do. Nevertheless, a +single cigar or pipe daily would not be injurious to a grown man, though +much so to a young lad in his teens. Men are so careless about cleansing +their pipes from that poisonous nicotine, that multitudes have found +their habit of excessive smoking a highly provoking cause of cancer in +the mouth. + +HEBRIDEAN.--We think some foolish person has been worrying you with +nonsensical fault-finding. We can not see that you were wrong in any +way. You were with other girls and with your brothers, and that should +be sufficient protection, whoever you were walking with. Do not allow +yourself to be teased. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Girl's Own Paper, Vol. VIII: No. +356, October 23, 1886., by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER, VOL. *** + +***** This file should be named 18395-8.txt or 18395-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/3/9/18395/ + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Girl's Own Paper, Vol. VIII: No. 356, October 23, 1886. + +Author: Various + +Release Date: May 15, 2006 [EBook #18395] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER, VOL. *** + + + + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus001a.png" width="600" height="224" alt="THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER" title="" /> +</div> +<hr style="width: 95%;" /> +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="" width="100%"> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Vol. VIII.—No. 356.</span></td><td align='center'>OCTOBER 23, 1886.</td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">Price One Penny.</span></td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr style="width: 95%;" /> + +<p class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: This Table of Contents was not present in the original.]</p> +<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> +<p class="center"> +<a href="#A_DREAM_OF_QUEENS"><b>A DREAM OF QUEEN'S GARDENS: Part 2.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#HINTS_ON_MODELLING_IN_CLAY"><b>HINTS ON MODELLING IN CLAY.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#LOVE_ON_LOVE_EVER"><b>LOVE ON, LOVE EVER.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#DRESS_IN_SEASON_AND_IN_REASON"><b>DRESS: IN SEASON AND IN REASON.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#THE_SHEPHERDS_FAIRY"><b>THE SHEPHERD'S FAIRY: Chapter 4.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#A_PRINCESS_WHO_LIVED_TWO_LIVES"><b>A PRINCESS WHO LIVED TWO LIVES.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#VARIETIES"><b>VARIETIES.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#MERLES_CRUSADE"><b>MERLE'S CRUSADE: Chapter 4.</b></a><br /> +<a href="#ANSWERS_TO_CORRESPONDENTS"><b>ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.</b></a><br /> +</p> +<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2><a name="A_DREAM_OF_QUEENS" id="A_DREAM_OF_QUEENS"></a>A DREAM OF QUEEN'S GARDENS.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a><br /> + +<span style="font-size: 75%;">A STORY FOR GIRLS.—IN TWO PARTS.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%;"><span class="smcap">By</span> DANIEL DORMER, Author of "Out of the Mists."</span></h2> + + +<h3>PART II.<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%;">A QUEEN'S DREAM.</span></h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus001b.png" width="600" height="766" alt=""LILACS AND LABURNUM TREES BLOOM ABUNDANTLY AROUND."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">"LILACS AND LABURNUM TREES BLOOM ABUNDANTLY AROUND."</span> +</div> + +<p>Yet the recollection of that book +is helping to soften Hazel. There +is a tender bit of writing at the +close of the lecture which can +hardly fail to reach any woman's +heart, unless it be wholly hardened; +and Hazel's is not a hard heart. +So she muses on it, growing gradually +calmer and happier. After +all, she might be of some use in the +world if she were to try, and if One +Divine would be with her.</p> + +<p>She stoops down to throw some +coal on the fire. She is too much +exhausted physically to make it up +carefully; but with an effort piles +on large blocks and small indiscriminately, +then throws in a handful +of matches from a box within +reach. What strange chaos there +seems to be in the grate after a +little while! One after another +the matches go off with a phiz +and short-lived flare, and each +seems to light up a more curious +scene than the last. From being +mere piled-up blocks of coal in a +grate, they grow to be a half +blocked up entrance to some unknown +place. There is a large +shining black portal, half ruined, +surrounded with <i>débris</i>. By degrees +Hazel's languid curiosity is +excited, and she wonders whither +it leads. Why should she not +explore?... The next +match which takes fire lights up +the slight form leaning far back in +the big chair, with the soft, golden +brown hair half loosened, and the +dark, shadowed eyes fast closed. +And Hazel has passed through +the dark gateway, and is in a +wonderful world.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p> +<p>What a strange black gateway to have led +into so fair a garden! Hazel pauses at the +entrance, her eyes glistening, her breath +taken away with delight at the beauty of the +scene before her. A paradise of fresh green +shade and exquisite light and colouring. +Wide-spreading chestnuts, graceful, feathery +birches, and a hundred other trees, clothed +and robed in their tender young leaves, +mingle with a glory of pink and white spring +blossom, which seems to fill the air like a +snowstorm in the clear, blue sky. The +South wind blows and fans Hazel's cheek, and +wafts delicious breath of flowers and sweet-brier +around her. Beneath the shower of +snowy blossom stretches smooth, green +grass, and masses of brilliant flowers glow, +expanding their petals up towards the sun.</p> + +<p>After a while Hazel wanders forward in a +dreamy intoxication of delight, every moment +discovering fresh beauties. She finds a +beautiful grotto, where are large rocks and +cascades and running streams and fountains. +She enters by a low archway of stone, covered +with drooping ferns, and there, right before +her, is a large clear pool at the foot of a huge +rock. She flushes with the prettiest of shy +pleasure and frank admiration at sight of her +own reflection.</p> + +<p>How beautiful! A girl in a long, white +robe, with a sweet, dark-eyed face, which she +knows to be her own. She is leaning slightly +forward, and the eyes—so often heavy and +weary—are brimming with happiness, the +lips parted in a smile. Her hair, with its +pretty, sunny ripples, is unbound, and the +wind blows it slightly back from her shoulders. +And, most wonderful and striking of all, a +circlet of pure gold rests upon the shapely +head, and a second circlet is clasped round +the waist. Then she is a queen? No doubt +of it. And then comes, to the joy of admiration +of all she has seen, the added joy of +certainty that all is her own. This is a +queen's garden, and she is the happy +queen!</p> + +<p>More and more dawns gradually upon her. +There are those near at hand dear to her, to +whom she is also dear, whose queen she is. +Oh the joy of it all! She clasps her hands in +ecstasy, and the pretty reflection in the pool +is more than ever lovely, only she has forgotten +it now.</p> + +<p>A serious thought must have come into +Hazel's mind, for suddenly a different +expression appears in her eyes; a look of +perplexity and shade of sorrow. The consciousness +in her new life is growing, and, +alas! it is not unmixed with pain. This +garden is not all the world, then? She puts +her hand to her brow, trying to recall something. +Slowly it comes back to her in words, +noble words, spoken by one whose face is a +darkness to her. And she listens—</p> + +<p>"It is you queens only who can feel the +depths of pain, and conceive the way to its +healing."</p> + +<p>Ah! that is enough. She has lost her +desire to recall more. She would fain turn +back to the former delight and forget the +existence of pain. But the steady voice +persists, and will not be quenched.</p> + +<p>"Instead of trying to do this, you turn +away from it; you shut yourselves within +your park walls and garden gates; and you +are content to know that there is beyond +them a whole world in wilderness, a world of +secrets which you dare not penetrate, and of +suffering which you dare not conceive."</p> + +<p>Hazel looks round on the garden. How +pleasant it is! Why should she leave it? +Why should she concern herself with what +may lie outside this home-kingdom of hers? +She tries again to banish the voice, yet she +knows in her heart, if she would only look for +its knowledge, that, outside of that little rose-covered +wall, the wild grass, to the horizon, is +torn up by the agony of men, and beat level +by the drift of their life-blood.</p> + +<p>Yes, it is useless; there is no escaping the +truth the voice tells. So Hazel yields herself +to listen as it goes on.</p> + +<p>"I knew you would like that to be true; +you would think it a pleasant magic if you +could flush your flowers into brighter bloom +by a kind look upon them; nay, more, if your +look had the power, not only to cheer, but to +guard.... This you would think a great +thing! And do you not think it a greater +thing that all this (and how much more than +this) you can do for fairer flowers than these, +flowers that could bless you for having blessed +them, and will love you for having loved +them; flowers that have thoughts like yours, +and lives like yours, and which, once saved, +you save for ever? Is this only a little +power? Far among the moorlands and the +rocks, far in the darkness of the terrible +streets, these feeble florets are lying, with all +their fresh leaves torn and their stems broken; +will you never go down to them, nor set them +in order in their little fragrant beds, nor fence +them, in their trembling, from the fierce +wind?"</p> + +<p>Engrossed with the voice, Hazel has been +walking on, little heeding whither she goes, +when, as its tones die away, a groan startles +her. How terrible its sound; how incongruous, +interrupting the soft harmonious chorus of +the soaring, singing birds! So painfully +near it seemed, too, it could but have been a +very little distance off outside that gate which +she sees before her. Her first impulse is to +draw back and retire, shuddering, far into the +garden. But, behold! the gate swings back +of its own accord, and in the face of that fact, +and with the remembrance of the words she +has heard, she dare not do other than pass +through the open way.</p> + +<p>What a strange, wide world, and how +dreary! A great, mad battle is raging; the +grass, sloping up to the horizon, is scorched +with the heat of the sun—the sun which only +made a pleasant warmth in the shady garden. +There is the fierce galloping of horses, and +wrestling and fighting of men. Shouts and +groans fill the air and drown the song of the +birds. There are heaps of dying and wounded. +Ah! there is one man not a stone's throw +from her; his must have been the voice that +reached her within her gates. How remarkable +that she should have heard nothing +before of all the great din. Another groan, +followed by some inaudible words, causes +Hazel timidly to approach the wounded man. +He is evidently one of the very poorest of the +"common" soldiers; and there is a look in +his face which speaks the word death with a +shudder in the girl's heart. A gleam lightens +the agony in the man's eyes as he sees the +white form and gentle face above him. He +gazes steadily a moment, as though to make +sure his vision is not a passing illusion; then +Hazel catches the words, "Were you sent to +me?"</p> + +<p>Very quietly she tells him in whose name +she comes. Then, with a long, struggling +sigh of satisfaction, without a shadow of +further questioning in the dying eyes or voice, +he whispers—"Hope even for me in Him, +then, since He sent you!"</p> + +<p>So the low, flickering flame of life, set free, +leaps up to its source; and the forsaken +home rests in unbroken peace.</p> + +<p>Saddened, and yet peaceful, too, Hazel turns +slowly away from the battle-field, and walks +on, not noticing whither she goes. Jarring +sounds recall her, and she finds herself in a +narrow valley, surrounded by noisy children +and brawling women. No one seems conscious +of her presence. A lot of men are +lounging against the wall of a public-house. +The low building is conspicuous by its being +in good repair, while its neighbours are all in +a shattered condition. The window-frames +are painted and varnished, and the open +entrance discloses a smart interior. A few +doors beyond this the houses reach the +climax of desolate disorder. The whole place +is tumbling down; the window is broken; +the battered door is off its hinges, propped +up against the wall. A cripple girl is sitting +on a broken box, turned upside down, +immediately outside this miserable hovel. +Her face is a greater shock to Hazel than any +of the other wretchedness around. There +is a desperation of bitterness in that set, +white face, with its hollow eyes and cheeks, +which is absolutely appalling. Hazel had +always imagined that suffering must of +necessity, by its own inherent nature, bring +with it a patience which would be reflected in +a sweet face. Slowly, as she scans those +immovable features, full of pain, and still +more full of dogged rebellion, this idea has to +be abandoned. Here obviously is a human +being in the midst of a noisy squalor, whose +physical disease and torture is unlightened by +one softening ray of hope; whose misery is +too sullen and dull to rise even to the hope of +putting an end to itself.</p> + +<p>One moment and the deformed girl starts +apprehensively. A sob has sounded in her +ear, and some one, unlike any she has ever +seen heretofore, stands beside her, taking her +hand in mute, unspeakable compassion. She +cowers back against the wall and drags away +her hand; Hazel's purity and loveliness raises +in her only a shrinking dislike and dread of +contact.</p> + +<p>It is long before the pleading, loving voice +gains any hearing; but at last, before the +two part, some faint expression of intelligent +thought has dawned on the lame girl's brow; +and in her mind a question has been raised, +"Can it be that there is one who loves me +and has need of me?"</p> + +<p>The evening sunlight is falling through the +birches in the beautiful garden; the air is full +of fragrance and harmony; the queen is +returning. Wearily she opens the gate to +enter. She is filled with pain, for the many +sadnesses to which she has drawn near have +touched her own soul with the shadow of +suffering.</p> + +<p>Suddenly, in the chequered shade of the +trees at the entrance of the garden, she stops +and turns round, for a bright radiance +envelops her. And, lo! there stands One, in +glorious light—One in whose Divine face +love is shining. Hazel bows down, her +whole soul overwhelmed with reverent awe. +Then her hand is taken and held with a touch +which thrills her with exquisite rapture, and a +voice in her ears says—</p> + +<p>"Come, see with Me My garden."</p> + +<p>And the air, which is filled with light, +grows buoyant, and, while her hand is still +clasped by the Divine Guide, she is wafted upwards.</p> + +<p>Stretched out below, the hills and vales of +the earth are one vast garden. All is indistinct +at first; expanses of misty colour and +tint; but by degrees the scene resolves itself +into more definite form. The whole is intersected +and watered with streams, more or +less clear and pure, which arise and are +replenished from a bright vapour, the Spirit +of Life, which shines, issuing forth from an +empty tomb in a rock in the East. There are +banks of wild violets and primroses, and +woods filled with anemones and hyacinths—myriads +of beautiful flowers, reaching over all +the world.</p> + +<p>Hazel has hardly taken in anything of the +wonder of the scene, when her attention is +attracted by an arch of white mist above the +earth, and, as it seems, but a few paces from +her. Gradually this path of mist grows clear +as crystal, and the colours glancing in it take +shape, and form a clear, transparent picture.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p> + +<p>A cornfield on a summer evening, filled +with blossoms of poppies and corn-flowers. A +wild storm sweeps over the field; the corn is +broken down; the flowers are crushed beneath +its weight, draggled and withered. A poppy, +torn up by its roots, is whirled through the air.</p> + +<p>A mist sweeps over the crystalline cloud, +and where it grows clear again the scene is +changed to a wild hill-side. Scarlet and blue +flowers intermingle in the distance; in the +foreground lies a single poppy, withered and +dying. Slowly, beside it a lily grows up; +as it grows the fading poppy is stirred, +touched by its leaves; and the tiny bells +waving over it inspire new life and vigour, +till at length, grown whole and fresh, it is +loosened from the brown uptorn roots, and +floats upwards, to bloom more beautiful in +Paradise.</p> + +<p>Again the mist passes over the light +picture and changes it. A woodland scene is +painted there now. Amid the fern and moss +and twigs under the trees, wild flowers are +blowing. A pathway intersects the little +wood, and across it shadows of the trees fall, +with sunlight between. In the foremost +patch of sunshine, at the edge of the path, is +a sprinkling of anemone leaves. And there +amongst them a delicate blossom, half +crushed by the superincumbent weight of +moss, the fallen leaves of last year, and tiny, +lichen-covered twigs. The white, transparent +petals are soiled and deformed, thrust down to +the earth. As Hazel looks, regretting that +she has not the power to stretch forth her +hand and clear away the destructive weight, +the leaves and twigs tremble, and are uplifted, +and fall away from the slender plant, +for close beside it a hardy little fern frond +slowly uncurls itself and arises. The frail +blossom stirs slightly, released from the overwhelming +pressure; but has no strength to +do more. Oh, for water to revive it! And, +lo! from the fair green fern drops of dew +embosomed there are shed and scattered over +the downcast head. They are drunk in, and +by degrees the drooping cup is raised to the +friendly fern. And then, the straight young +frond, itself ever growing, waves aside in a +natural, graceful sweep, and allows the sunshine +in all its strong radiance and reviving +force to fall full on the flower. And the half-closed +bell joyously expanding, grows white +and strong and beautiful.</p> + +<p>And so the crystal pictures change and +change, till Hazel's every helpful act has been +set forth. Then, as the last fades, and the +arch of storied light itself dissolves and melts, +with one all-absorbing passion of eternal +devotion flooding her whole being, Hazel +turns to Him who has kept her beside Him +throughout, her hand retained in His. For +one moment she beholds Him, the Unutterable +One; and in His Sacred Face she reads, amid +ineffable love and infinite majesty, a look of +gratitude. And once more the Divine accents +fall on her ear, saying—</p> + +<p>"'Inasmuch as thou didst it unto one of +these My brethren, even these least, thou +didst it unto Me.'</p> + +<p>"Let not those, the queens of the earth, to +whom I have given the priceless gifts of life +and leisure, hold either lightly. Life, with +its sorrows and its joys, is but the education +time fitting them to live for ever with Me. +The leisure I have bestowed may be used for +Me, in doing work in My garden—work +which I have prepared for them to do, and +which I long to see done. Let them see to +it that they waste not the opportunity in +fretful discontent and idleness—'And whosoever +shall give to drink unto one of these little +ones, a cup of cold water only, in the name +of a disciple, verily I say unto you, she shall +in no wise lose her reward.'"</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Hazel awoke. The moon was streaming in +through the window. The grate was filled +with shining blocks of coal, and a few half-burnt +matches. Aching all over, and shivering +with cold, she closed her eyes once more, and +a period of insensibility followed.</p> + +<p>Many days and nights of feverish illness +ensued—days and nights in which Hazel had +much to suffer, and was only from time to +time conscious of the loving, unceasing care +which watched over her. In those intervals +when her mind was not dazed and confused, +she saw a face, old and plain and wrinkled, +which was to her as the face of an angel, for +Miss Bright tended and watched her with all +the self-sacrifice of a noble, true woman.</p> + +<p>At length, after a weary, weary time of +pain, Hazel fell asleep once more. Her +dream came back to her, for she thought she +was resting in the warm sunshine on a bed +of lilies in the same beautiful garden. And +when she opened her eyes she found her room +was really bright and warm with a fire and +sunshine, and fresh and sweet with the +fragrance of lilies of the valley, a large +bunch of them standing beside her, and more +lying on the white coverlid of her bed. Her +eyes filled and her heart swelled with +gratitude. Softly she whispered, as though +she spoke to someone close beside her, +"Dear Lord, I am so thankful to Thee for +making me better. I so longed to live a +little while more to do some work for Thee in +Thy garden. I bless Thee so!"</p> + +<p>The door opened, and Brightie came in. +The brave old woman broke down as she +clasped Hazel in her joy at the improvement +in her. The two cried together for a little +while; there was so very much to be glad +about that the gladness was too great for +self-control.</p> + +<p>A few days later, a girl with a white but +radiantly happy face is resting in a cane armchair, +her feet supported by a footstool, in the +garden of a pretty country house at Fridorf. +The sunshine is hot, but she is shaded from +it by a trellis work of young-leaved creepers +overhead. Lilacs and laburnum trees bloom +abundantly around. The lawn before her is +smooth and green, and beyond is the sea.</p> + +<p>"How wonderful God's love is!" the girl +says, presently, reaching out her hand to an +old woman with a peaceful face who shortly +joins her, and who clasps and retains the hand +with an answering look more eloquent than +speech.</p> + +<p class="center">THE END</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Sesame and Lilies. By John Ruskin +LL.D. 1. Of Kings' Treasuries. 2. +Of Queens' Gardens.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="HINTS_ON_MODELLING_IN_CLAY" id="HINTS_ON_MODELLING_IN_CLAY"></a>HINTS ON MODELLING IN CLAY.<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap" style="font-size: 75%;">By FRED MILLER.</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus003.png" width="150" height="220" alt="M" title="" /> +</div><p> +odelling in clay is a very +agreeable change in one's +artistic occupation, for +it is quite unlike other +branches of art, and calls +into play a different set +of faculties for its performance. +It needs a greater +amount of "hand cunning" +than does painting, and is +in that sense akin to wood +carving, to which delightful +craft it is, indeed, almost indispensable, +and, I might add, part of the +necessary training one has to undergo to +become a carver in wood. And as on another +occasion I am going to write a few hints on +wood carving, the present article may be +taken as a prelude to the one on that subject.</p> + +<p>The materials necessary to try one's hand at +modelling are very inexpensive. The clay is +the most essential thing, and this can be purchased +at one or two artists' colourmen, or, +better still, at any pottery. I have had clay +sent me from the potteries in Staffordshire, +and those of my readers who live near a +pottery would have no difficulty in supplying +themselves with clay. The clay used for +flower-pots does for coarse work, but is not +sufficiently carefully prepared for fine work. +It burns a rich red colour, and is, of course, +terra-cotta. The clay used in making the +terra-cotta plaques and vases is what you +require for fine work. There are two or +three firms who supply London shops with +terra-cotta vases, etc., and I have no doubt +that clay might be purchased of them.</p> + +<p>The clay used in making tiles does for +modelling, but perhaps the best is that which +burns a cream colour. It is a dull grey +colour, rather dark before it is fired, and it +should be noticed that it is difficult to tell +the colour clay will burn by its appearance +when unbaked. Thus a grey clay may burn +a rich red or pale cream. The qualities necessary +in clay for modelling are plasticity, which +enables it to be worked without falling to +pieces, and fineness—a perfect freedom from +grit, small stones, and other impurities. It +should be quite soft to the touch, and when +pressed and kneaded should feel smooth and +silky. Old clay is more plastic as well as +being tougher than new, and in potteries clay +is often kept a considerable time before it is +used. The clay should not be allowed to dry +when it is not in use, and to prevent this it +must be wrapped in wet flannel. Should it +dry quite hard, there is nothing to do but to +put it into a vessel and pour water on it, +allowing it to stand until the clay becomes +soft. Some of the moisture must then be +allowed to evaporate, otherwise it is too soft +for use. This is another point to be observed +in clay used for modelling. It must not be +too damp. If it sticks to the fingers it is too +wet, and if it resists the pressure of the fingers, +too dry. The state between stickiness and +stubbornness is what is wanted.</p> + +<p>Now as to the tools. Wooden modelling +tools can be purchased at some artists' colourmen, +and also at some tool shops. You must +choose those tools you think look handiest. +A little practice will soon show you which are +the best to have.</p> + +<p>Each modeller has a predilection for certain +tools, and it will take my readers very little +time to find out which tools give the best +results. I often shape those I buy myself +to fit them for particular work. In +addition to these wooden tools, it is necessary +to have a fine steel one to work +the clay when it is dry. Modelling tools are +very inexpensive. You really require no other +tools but these wooden ones and a steel one, +but it is necessary to have a few boards to +work your clay upon. They should be strong, +with battens at the back to prevent them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +warping, which they are liable to do owing to +the dampness of the clay.</p> + +<p>We will start our work with a very simple +design, for our aim should be to overcome the +difficulties by degrees. The design I have +chosen (<a href="#FIG_1">fig. 1</a>) was modelled as a tile about +eight inches square, and the first thing to be +done is to roll out a piece of clay about half +an inch thick, and fairly flat all over. It is as +well to work the clay up in one's hands, damping +it occasionally if too dry. If clay be +allowed to remain untouched for any length of +time it gets set, and does not work easily; +therefore, thoroughly work it up with the +hands. It may be made into a ball, and can +be rolled out flat with a thick ruler or rolling +pin. The clay has a tendency to curl up +round the rolling pin, and care must be taken +to prevent this. If the rolling pin be covered +with leather, this is to a great extent +prevented. The design can be made on +tracing paper, and by marking over the tracing +paper placed over the clay with a hard point, +an impression sufficiently distinct will be left +to guide one in doing the actual modelling. +The first thing is to build up the oranges, +which can be done by sticking little pellets of +clay on to the slab, pressing them down with +the fingers, and rounding the oranges roughly +into shape.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="FIG_1" id="FIG_1"></a> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus004.png" width="600" height="592" alt="FIG. 1.—A TILE. + +Our First Experiment." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FIG. 1.—A TILE.<br /> +<br /> +<i>Our First Experiment.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>Don't be too particular about this part of +the work; be content to get some approximation +to the shape, leaving the finishing to be +done with the tools. Build up the stem in like +manner, or you might roll out a thin piece of +clay and stick this on to the slab. In sticking +clay on to clay, it is always advisable to wet +both the clay and the slab to ensure thorough +adhesion, and in working the design +into shape it is even a good plan to dip the +fingers into water, as the extra moisture makes +it easier to press the clay into the requisite +shape.</p> + +<p>The leaves can be modelled separately, +and stuck on to the clay slab one by one. Do +as much of the work as you can with the +fingers. In modelling, the fingers are the best +tools, after all. They do their work so much +more expeditiously and effectively than the so-called +"tools" do, and, depend upon it, the +more the preliminary work is done with the +fingers the better, as the use of the fingers +tends towards boldness of design and vigour +of execution. People, in starting a new employment, +are very apt to be finiking owing +to timidity, and this must be overcome from +the outset—this tendency to pettiness—and in +the case of modelling, the best way to overcome +it is to do all the preliminary work with +the fingers. Build up the design boldly and +freely, studying only the principal masses and +most important forms. When this is accomplished, +let the clay stand a little time uncovered, +as the use of water will have made it +very sticky, and the modelling tools cannot be +used as efficiently when the clay is in this +state as when it is drier.</p> + +<p>The modelling tools will enable you to +begin to finish up the design, for at +present the design exists only in its rough +state. Pick the clay out of the interstices of +the design, and begin to refine the different +forms by putting in the more delicate curves. +It very much depends upon the nature of the +design as to how far in the direction of finish +you carry the work, but as your modelled tile +will not be exposed to rough usage, you may +under-cut it, as modellers say. Under-cutting +is the taking of the clay away from +the back of the various forms. In the leaves, +for instance, instead of leaving a solid mass of +clay at the back, this should be carefully cut +away underneath, or under-cut, so as to give +lightness and delicacy to the work. Of course, +it is necessary to leave some clay here and there +to attach the various forms to the slab. The +under-cutting may be carried to such a pitch +as to make the design look weak, and as though +it would fall to pieces with a puff of wind. +When this is the case, I reckon the finishing +has been carried too far. Clay should always +look strong enough to hold together, and I +may say I never thought much of that fancy +china one sees which is covered with flowers +and foliage modelled as delicately as though +wrought in some precious metal. Sooner or +later the edges get chipped off, and the charm +of such work is immediately gone. Of course +we know that an accident may destroy work +that is not wrought in this delicate manner, +but modelled clay should be delicate without +being weak—it should at least look as though +it could hold its own with fair usage.</p> + +<p>Get as much of the work done as possible +while the clay is plastic, and with a little +practice a modelled design can be finished +entirely while the clay is damp. In fact, the +work is better when wrought from the plastic +clay than when finished up with steel tools +after the clay is dry. There is a certain crispness +about the modelling when wrought from +plastic clay, which is often wanting +in work tooled up when the +clay is hard. To my thinking, +the best work is always that which +looks as though it had been +thrown off in a happy moment, +and which has a certain number +of the tool marks showing, as +though the worker were not +ashamed to let his craftsmanship +be seen. Work which has been +touch and retouched, and rubbed +down and smoothed until all life, +vigour, and crispness have departed +from it, looks what it +is, amateurish (in the worse sense) +and weak.</p> + +<p>I have had many opportunities +of seeing amateurs work during +the years I have been teaching, +and I have noticed that they +have a mistaken notion of what +finish really is. It certainly does +not consist in smoothing the work +until it has the texture of a wax +doll, and I have often noticed that +work is often wholly spoilt in the +so-called finishing.</p> + +<p>In the subject I am dealing +with—modelling in clay—this is +particularly the case, and, reader, +I pray you avoid it. I would +sooner you leave the work rough, +with all the marks of the tools +showing, so that you get vigour +and crispness in your work, than +that you should in your endeavour +to efface the marks of the +tools make your work tame and +effeminate.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="FIG_2" id="FIG_2"></a> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus005.png" width="600" height="604" alt="FIG. 2.—A PLAQUE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FIG. 2.—A PLAQUE.</span> +</div> + +<p>In working up the leaves, don't +attempt to put many veins in +them. Hardly do more than indicate +the centre vein. Nothing +looks worse than to see the various +forms covered with a network +of minute markings. You +will find, if you try and put in the +veins in your modelled tile, your +leaves will not look as though<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +they were veined, but as though some stiff-legged +insect had crawled over the damp clay, +and had left its trail behind it. In putting +in the stamens in flowers, you will have to +have recourse to an expedient, for it is evident +that you cannot copy every individual stamen +in clay any more than you can make your clay +petals as thin and delicate as nature. You +must translate the effect of nature into clay, +and in the case of the stamens you will find it +a good plan to build up the centre of the +flower, and then press into it a pointed stick, +repeating the operation until the whole of the +centre is perforated, as it were, like a grater.</p> + +<p>In order to make a contrast between the design +and the background, you can dot or line +over the slab upon which the design is lying, so +as to make the surface rough in texture. When +the clay is quite dry, which will take some +week or more to effect, you can put any +further work into the design with the steel +tool, which must be used to scrape the clay; +for if you exert any pressure upon the dry +clay it very soon chips, and it is almost +impossible to repair such damage, and for +this reason: that if you stick on a piece of +wet clay to the dry clay, the moisture of the +wet clay is soon absorbed by the dry, and the +piece stuck on immediately falls off. The +only chance is to keep damping the part +damaged until the clay all round gets quite +moist again, and you must then model +another piece on to the broken part. Dry +your work very slowly at first, to prevent it +cracking or warping, and when it seems quite +hard put it into a warmer place, for, though +clay may appear hard on the surface, there is +sure to be a good deal of moisture inside, +especially if the clay be thick, and should it be +put into a kiln before the moisture is entirely +evaporated, the modelled clay will fly into +minute fragments, and cause incalculable +damage to other work in the kiln. I recommend +my readers to put their work into a hot oven +two or three times after it has been drying for +two or three weeks, so as to insure the clay +being quite hard. I lost several works +through firing them before they were dry +enough.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> + +<p>The heat that china is put to fix the +colours is not sufficient for baking clay, and it +must be sent to some place where underglaze +pottery is fired. This first firing turns<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +the clay into "biscuit," and if any painting is +to be done on it, now is the time to do it. +Underglaze or Barbotine colours should be +used, and they should be put on in thin +washes. The whole work must then be +glazed and fired. But I shall not touch +further on this part of the subject here, for I +must say something about modelled decoration +applied to vases and plaques.</p> + +<p>The plaque or vase to receive modelled +decoration must be of the same degree of +dampness, or nearly the same degree of dampness, +as the clay used in modelling, for reasons +already stated. You cannot put modelled +decoration on to clay that is dry, or ware +that has been fired. To make a plaque, +it is almost necessary to have a plaster mould. +You might make this for yourself by buying a +china plaque the shape and size you require, +and filling this plaque with plaster-of-Paris, +being careful to let the plaster come to edge +of plaque all round. When the plaster is dry, +trim the edge round, and take it out of +plaque. You must now roll out a flat sheet of +clay sufficiently large to cover this plaster +mould, and, by pressing the clay evenly all +over the mould, and trimming round the edges +with a knife, you will get a clay plaque sufficiently +good to answer your purpose. Don't +attempt to remove the clay immediately from +the plaster, but let it remain on a few hours, +to enable the clay to set. The surface of this +plaque may be kept moist by keeping a damp +flannel over it. When the modelling has been +started, the damp cloth must not press upon +the modelled portions, but be supported on a +wicker frame.</p> + +<p>It is always better to model direct from +nature—and for this reason. By taking a leaf +and pressing it into a piece of clay, and marking +it round with a darning-needle, you get +the exact shape of the leaf, and by pulling off +the leaf you can bend the clay impression into +any form you like, and put it upon your clay +plaque or vase, pressing it into the curve you +wish it to take. A little very wet clay should +be put on back of leaf, to ensure it sticking to +plaque. I have taken as my illustration (<a href="#FIG_2">fig. 2</a>) +the garden poppy, and if I were modelling it +direct from nature, I should first of all roll out +a strip of clay for the stem, and put this on +the plaque so that it makes a graceful curve. +Strip off the leaves one by one, and take impressions +in clay, and then fasten them to +plaque, following the natural growth, and yet +arranging them so that the leaves fall into +their places agreeably. The back leaves, instead +of being modelled, might be just marked +in outline on the plaque itself. This will give +depth to the design. The leaves should not +be put on the plaque flatly, but should be bent +and twisted as is necessary to suggest the +growth of nature. The flower will present the +greatest difficulty, as the serrated edges of the +petals must be carefully done.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="FIG_3" id="FIG_3"></a> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus006.png" width="600" height="507" alt="FIG. 3.—A VASE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FIG. 3.—A VASE.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the case of flowers like chrysanthemums, +it is necessary to build up the most prominent +flower solidly in clay, putting on the outer +petals separately. The back flower can have the +near petals modelled, while the distant ones +can be just indicated on plaque with incised +lines. Don't attempt to copy every petal in +clay, which is an impossibility, but try and +get the general effect of the flower in your +modelling. Take the prominent petals first, +and put them on in their proper positions, +and the less important petals can then be +filled in in the intervening spaces. This is +the plan to adopt in all intricate work. Put +down your principal forms first of all, and +you will have little difficulty in getting in the +less important ones, for the principal forms +act as measuring points to the rest of the +work, and enable you to preserve that pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>portion +between the various parts of the +design which is essential in all good designs. +It is necessary in modelling to simplify nature +somewhat, for we cannot imitate nature in +clay. What we have to do is to seize upon +the principal points, the curves of the stems, +the position, form, and characteristics of the +flowers and leaves, and put them down intelligently +and in as telling a manner as possible. +Let the work dry carefully before having it +fired, and you can either finish it up in colours, +and have it glazed, or let it remain as it is. +I often used to use my Barbotine colours (see +articles on "Barbotine Painting," in Nos. 440 +and 584, vol. iv., of the G.O.P.) for colouring +modelled work and glazed it with my soft +glaze. I have also sent some work to the +potteries, and had a coloured glaze put over +the whole work. I may here say that much +may be learnt by studying good modelled +work, and even copying some stone or wood +carving in clay. The pottery of Della Robbia +and Palissy should be studied whenever the +student has the opportunity of so doing.</p> + +<p>I need not say much as to modelled work or +vases. You must have some shapes sent up +from the potteries in the "green" state, for it +is almost impossible for amateurs to "throw" +their own vases on a wheel. Space forbids +me to describe the potter's wheel, but visitors +to the Health Exhibition two years ago had the +opportunity of seeing a potter at work, which +is much better than reading about one. Those +adventurous spirits who wish to try "throwing" +vases, should get a small wheel from the +potteries (it will cost, including carriage, about +£8), and have a few lessons from a practical +potter. In the meantime, get some firm to +procure for you a few unbaked vases, and +when you receive them it will be necessary to +wrap them up in damp flannel for a day or +two, so that the modelled work will stick on +the vase. Let the shape of the vases be very +plain and simple, with a good broad surface to +receive the modelled decoration. I have chosen +as the illustration (<a href="#FIG_3">fig. 3</a>) the blackberry, as it +is a very ornamental plant and one familiar to +all readers. Throw on your stalk first of all, +letting it wrap round the vase, and so place it +that the leaves, flowers, and fruit can spring +from it so as to be seen to the best advantage. +The stalks might be placed in such a way as +to form handles. Get a certain quaintness +into the modelling, and don't be too intent +upon imitating nature, for, do what you will, +you will find it impossible to accomplish this. +Therefore, be content to decorate your vase +with a graceful spray of bramble, with all +essential characteristics of the plant indicated, +and the general "swing" of the plant expressed +in your work. Model each part separately, +either by pressing the leaves into clay +and marking them round, or by modelling +pure and simple, and then fasten the various +parts on to the vase with diluted clay. Don't +let any part of the work stand out too prominently; +for not only will the shape of the vase +be destroyed, but there is always much more +liability to damage if the design be very prominent +than when it just lies, as it were, +closely to the surface of the vase. And yet it +is not necessary to put everything perfectly +flat on the vase. The stems, for instance, +can be raised in places, so that there is a space +between the stem and vase; and so with leaves, +flowers, and other details.</p> + +<p>It will be seen that I make the stems form +an ornamental rim round the vase and also +round the neck. Dry the vase very slowly, +and in sending it to be fired, wrap plenty of +cotton wool around it so that no pressure can +be exerted upon any portion of the modelling. +This applies with equal force to all modelled +work. Red terra-cotta vases decorated with +modelling, and merely baked, are most +effective. Terra-cotta vases should not be too +small; the larger they are the more effective is +appearance in a room. I have some more +than two feet high, and when filled with dried +rushes, etc., they fill up a corner charmingly.</p> + +<p>As a general rule let your modelled work +be drawn to a natural size, and let it be rather +over than under the natural size, for if modelled +work is smaller than nature, the effect is apt to +be petty and insignificant. Birds and insects +can often be introduced with advantage.</p> + +<p>I have recently been modelling some large +works, using clay employed in making drain +tiles, and having them fired in an ordinary brick +kiln. In fact, I started some of my work with +large size drain tiles, which I obtained when +they were quite wet, and by pulling up the top +and spreading it out a little, and putting a slab +of clay on the bottom, I obtained cylindrical +vases, upon which I modelled some decoration; +but as the subject is one of peculiar +interest, and is somewhat new to my readers, +I must just reserve a few remarks upon this +subject for another occasion, when I will give +sketches of some of the vases I have recently +been modelling. This work is within the +reach of everyone, especially my country +readers, for there are few villages of any size +that have not a brick kiln in their vicinity, +and for large work, such as ornamental flower-pots, +vases for holding bulrushes, and garden +vases, this is most admirably adapted.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> As will be seen, the tile design, <a href="#FIG_1">fig. 1</a>, is what is +termed a "bas relief," <i>i.e.</i>, the forms in many cases are +only just relieved from the ground, and only here and +there are any of the forms in entire relief.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus007.png" width="250" height="172" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2><a name="LOVE_ON_LOVE_EVER" id="LOVE_ON_LOVE_EVER"></a>LOVE ON, LOVE EVER.<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap" style="font-size: 75%;">By RUTH LAMB.</span></h2> + +<p class="center">"Love not, love not, ye hapless sons of earth."</p> + + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">How world-worn must have been the weary heart<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When this sad strain belied its noblest part!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">What! Bid us cease to love! Why life were pain<br /></span> +<span class="i0">If this best attribute were given in vain.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Cease not to love. O, wherefore shouldst thou scorn<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The flowers thy path beside, to cull the thorn?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or heed the man who, all unblest with sight,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Counsels his fellow-man to shun the light?<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Gazing around, 'tis ever hard to trace<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Maker's image in the Creature's face.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Seek it not there. That image wouldst thou prove,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Know the Divine gleams through our works of love.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">If cruel Death a dear one rend away,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Let thy love follow; do not with the clay<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bury thy heart. Soar higher. Wherefore bow?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yesterday's mortal is immortal now.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">If thy life's labour meet with scant return,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thou who hast wrought it should'st be last to mourn.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nay more, rejoice. Each unpaid debt of love<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Is so much treasure garnered up above.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Let cold ingratitude bring no dismay,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But rather aid thee on thy heavenward way.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Work on, love on, aye to increase the debt;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thy God is not unrighteous to forget.<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="DRESS_IN_SEASON_AND_IN_REASON" id="DRESS_IN_SEASON_AND_IN_REASON"></a>DRESS: IN SEASON AND IN REASON.<br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap" style="font-size: 75%;">By A LADY DRESSMAKER.</span></h2> + + +<p>The extreme warmth of September has naturally postponed +ideas of winter, and our preparations are generally very backward. +In fact, at the end of September many people would +have said that they knew nothing whatever about new things, +and that they did not want them either, and the secret of this +indifference would have been attributable to the weather. It is +to be hoped that we shall have a seasonable winter, less cold +and disagreeable than the last.</p> + +<p>During my visit to Paris I found but little to chronicle +in the way of winter novelties. The chief changes seemed to +be in materials and their designs. Checks are in high favour, +and it is said they will supersede stripes; and last year, when +I was there at this season, they said much the same thing, +but this year they seemed more determined to vote stripes old-fashioned. +To tell the truth, I think the Parisians, and the +women in France generally, are great admirers of plaids, and do +not find stripes becoming, simply because they are usually very +short and stout. Englishwomen, who are tall and stout, like +them because they decrease their apparent size, and give an effect +of length while decreasing breadth. On tall people plaids have +a bad effect.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus008.png" width="600" height="807" alt="AUTUMN CLOAKS, ULSTERS, AND GOWNS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">AUTUMN CLOAKS, ULSTERS, AND GOWNS.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> + +<p>Rough-faced materials constitute the majority +of those prepared, and plain stuffs +are still united with plaided and striped ones +in the same dress; but this is not an absolute +rule this year, for some dresses are +entirely of either plaids or stripes, or else +are of plain material only. Many of the +materials are plain, with a bordering at one +edge of plaid. For instance, a grey of rough-faced +stuff had a bordering of a large check in +lines of a paler grey, a little relief being given +by pale lines of a clear Naples-yellow. The +effect was quiet and subdued by the roughness +of the surface of the cloth. With this +gown the underskirt was made of the plaid +material, quite plain, and the overskirt of the +bordered part was draped above it in simple +straight long folds, the plaid part being at the +lower edge of the overskirt. The bodice was +of the plain, and it had a plastron, or waistcoat +front, of the plaid. The buttons (as are +many in use this year) are of smoked pearl, +and are very small for the fronts of gowns and +larger for the jacket-bodices. Bretelles of +velvet are used as trimmings to the bodices of +these rough woollens, and the collars and +cuffs are almost invariably of the same +material, which seems likely to retain its +popularity through the winter. The velvet +collars are both useful and becoming, and, in +addition, they save white trimmings at the +neck. We rather rejoice in our emancipation +from that bondage, and I hear many people +say they will never resume it again, now they +have once found that they can look well without +the once inevitable white collar or frill. +The tendency in every woman's mind who is +possessed of ordinary good sense is to simplify +everything connected with clothes, and I feel +sure we shall all be healthier and happier +when we have banished many things from our +wardrobes which we now think absolutely +needful.</p> + +<p>"Dr. Jaeger's sanitary woollen clothing," +about which I have so often written in praise, +has raised up some rival manufactures +amongst our English makers, who have long +been famous for their merino or lambswool +stuffs. Pure woollen under-garments in +England have always been thought to wear +and to wash badly, and much of this has +probably been owing to the fact that the +washing was very bad and that no one before +Dr. Jaeger ever tried washing woollens scientifically, +so as to take out the grease and +perspiration, and not to harden the material +at the same time. By Jaeger's method this +is done with lump ammonia and soap. The +soap is cut into small pieces and boiled into a +lather with water, and the lump ammonia is +then added. This lather is used at about +100° Fahrenheit, and the clothes must not be +rubbed, but allowed to soak for about an hour +in the water, and must then be drawn backwards +and forwards repeatedly in the bath till +clean. Three waters are to be used, the two +after the first lather being of the same heat, +and of pure clean water. This leaves the +clothes delightfully soft and supple, and their +wearing qualities suggest nothing further as +an improvement.</p> + +<p>Some of the new English underclothing is +very light and good, and claims to be of pure +merino-wool. It is of varying thickness, and +many ladies, both young and old, are adopting +it for combinations; these and one petticoat +forming the whole of the clothing. Of +course, the thickness of these garments is to +be suited to the season, and the gossamer +clothing manufactured for the warm season +leaves nothing to be desired in its lightness +and apparent coolness.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus009.png" width="600" height="545" alt="BY THE LAKE SIDE WITH THE BOATS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BY THE LAKE SIDE WITH THE BOATS.</span> +</div> + +<p>One does not associate thick materials with +great heat, and the mere look of thick wool<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +would make one begin to feel hot, however foolish +it may sound to say so. When the skin becomes +used to wearing wool it will be found +more comfortable than either cotton or linen, +and we, moreover, avoid the chance of chills +after being over-heated. I know several +people who date their almost perfect immunity +from colds to the use of woollen underclothing, +who previously had been martyrs to colds and +coughs, and had been constantly imprisoned +in the house during quite mild seasons. In +England the climate (need I say so?) is fickle +and changeable, and, singular to say, we may +be, and many people are, apparently wrapped +up carefully and seasonably, and yet we may +all err on every hygienic point, in regard to the +weight and porosity of materials.</p> + +<p>So far as I can see in the newest styles, the +loose-fronted bodices have it all their own +way. Many of them only fasten at the throat +and waist, either large buttons or handsome +clasps being used. These jackets stretch open +over the front to show a full waistcoat, this +latter being a scarf long enough to continue +below the waist and round it at either side, so +as to form a sort of sash, showing under the +edge of the bodice and ending under the long +coat-tails at the back in ends or a bow.</p> + +<p>The newest bonnets are still high in the +front, or, if not high themselves, the trimmings +are high. The horseshoe crowns which +were introduced in the summer bid fair to +become extremely popular, and the stringless +bonnet will be in vogue as long as possible, +and I have no doubt many people will wear +it through the winter, too. Beaver bonnets +are announced to take the place of kid or felt, +and I have seen some black beaver crowns +with open-work jet fronts, which appeared +incongruous.</p> + +<p>Leaves of all bright hues, the bramble and +its berries, the blackberry, and the virginian-creeper, +are likely to be in great favour for +trimmings this autumn. These will be used +even upon velvet and beaver bonnets.</p> + +<p>There is a very strong feeling in many +quarters in favour of restoring the "princess" +cut of dress to favour. In a letter from a lady, +it is very wisely said, in writing to a contemporary, +"For active exercise, a dress ought to +be cut all in one—'princess,' as the milliners +call it—and so arranged in the skirt that there +is no drapery which will catch in things, come +unstitched, and look untidy; everything wants +to be taut and trim, like tailor's work. But +even the ladies' tailors will insist upon making +a skirt and little jacket-bodice, instead of a +dress in one piece. It is almost impossible to +use the arms freely—to go out in a sailing-boat, +for instance, and help in its management—or, +in fact, to raise the arms high, +without causing a hiatus between the two +parts of the garment at the sides of the waist. +I have noticed this happen so often, even with +smart tailor-made gowns, the wearer being +generally blissfully unconscious of the accident, +that I feel bound to draw attention to it.</p> + +<p>"It was curious to note the awful revelations +made recently by a storm of wind on an elevated +promenade by the sea. Every steel +stood out in bold relief even under the most +<i>bouffante</i> drapery. Upper-skirts broke away +from the under, and displayed the sorry fact +that the latter were only shams, formed of +lining-calico, with patches of good material +put in here and there, where the over-garment +was cut open. One neat tailor-gown revealed +the cotton back to the pretty waistcoat, a +pretence which is carried out in every suit of +clothes made for men, but which seemed an +aggravated offence to art in a well-dressed +woman. It was comforting to turn from such +sartorial mistakes to a group of young girls +sensibly clad in simple gowns, guiltless of +pretence, of steels, or <i>tournures</i>. Gathered +bodices and full plain skirts, confined by broad +sashes, combined the elements of grace and +utility, and exhibited no foolish attempt to +distort and pervert nature."</p> + +<p>I have given the full extract, as it contains +much matter for thought for my readers, both +young and middle-aged. I suppose everyone +read with interest the celebration of the centenary +of M. Chevreul, the great French +chemist, who has been for years a great +student of colour, and to whom we owe +many alterations, inventions, and suggestions +in dyes and colours. Trade has been assisted +and developed by his researches, and the +subject of colour harmonies has been placed +by him in the position and basis of a science. +When we admire the loveliness of our +coloured materials, and notice the wonderful +improvements of late years, we women may +thank the industry and talent of M. Chevreul. +I put in a long quotation from him some +months ago, and it may interest some of my +readers to hear that M. Chevreul has attained +his hundredth year as a total abstainer, but +drank his own health in a glass of champagne, +tasted for the first time!</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus010.png" width="200" height="466" alt="A LADY'S PYJAMA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A LADY'S PYJAMA.</span> +</div> + +<p>From a recently-published book I gather +the following ideas, and as they coincide with +what I am always impressing on my readers +with reference to tight dresses and stays, I +quote them gladly, as showing that there are +other sensible women in the world, a class +which I hope will every day increase:—"If +you lace tightly, nothing can save you from +acquiring high shoulders, abnormally large +hips, varicose veins in your legs, and a red +nose. Surely such penalties, to say nothing +of heart disease, spinal curvature, and worse, +are sufficiently dreadful to deter either maids +or matrons from unduly compressing their +waists? No adult woman's waist ought to +measure less in circumference than twenty-four +inches at the smallest, and even this is permissible +to slender figures only. The rule of +beauty is that the waist should be twice the +size of the throat. Therefore, if the throat +measure twelve and a half inches, round the +waist should measure twenty-five. The celebrated +statue know as the 'Venus de Medici,' +the acknowledged type of beauty and grace, +has a waist of twenty-seven inches, the +height of the figure being only five feet two +inches."</p> + +<p>And, while on this subject, I must mention +that some new stays, made of elastic material, +have recently been advertised, which I should +imagine were comfortable. Dr. Jaeger also +has an elastic knitted bodice on his list, which +is in reality a description of stays, and would +afford sufficient support to a slight figure.</p> + +<p>The illustrations to our dress instructions of +this month show the prevailing characteristics +of the gowns of the month, and also demonstrate +how little change there is in them. As +the majority of the community is still moving +about at this season, most of the dress thought +about and worn is suitable for travelling, as well +as autumn. Now that we no longer think it +needful to put on all our old clothes and to make +our appearance grotesque, as was formerly the +case, we very frequently follow the French and +American plan, and have a special dress made +for the tour we are about to undertake, which +will do for day wear, as well as for journeying +while we are away; then, furnished with a +second nice black silk or satin for very best +occasions, we are sufficiently well clad for +every purpose. A dust cloak, travelling cloak, +and short jacket are added, and some wise +people take their fur capes; in fact, for short +expeditions of a month or six weeks we do not +like large trunks nor encumbrances, so we +curtail all our wants, and are so much the +happier, having less anxiety and worry. In +addition to all this, we save our shillings in +fees, and charges for over-weight, very considerably, +and, when we are rid of the heavy +trunks, last, not least, we break no backs.</p> + +<p>While I am on this topic, I must mention +that the late Exhibition (the Healtheries) +was of great assistance to travellers in showing +how much can be done to decrease weight +and bulk in every way, and setting wits to +work to improve in all directions. Thus we +have wonderfully improved waterproofed +cloaks, hygienic boots and shoes; and the +improvement in trunks and bags is immense, +in addition to their moderation in price.</p> + +<p>The greatest unanimity prevails with regard +to the small jackets, which seem patronised +by young girls, as well as married women of +every age. They are generally loose-fronted, +but tight-fitting at the back, the fronts being +lined with coloured silk. Many of them are +braided, some gold braid being used, and +many have a flat braided plastron in the front +to button over and give a double-breasted +effect. Serge in all hues seems very much +liked, but the most popular are dark navy-blue +and cream-white. Short cloaks, with sling-sleeves +and hoods, are very much worn, also +short mantelettes, like our paper-pattern for +last month. These may be made in the +material of the dress.</p> + +<p>This autumn I must again mention the +numbers of slightly full bodices of the "Garibaldi" +and "Norfolk jacket" class that this +season has brought out, to be worn with skirts +of different materials. The different ladies' +tailors of renown have taken up this idea, and +it is probable that we shall see them greatly +worn during the winter season. Some of +these have a yoke, and some have a straight +band on the shoulders, into which they are +fulled. They are made in flannel, linen, and +twilled silk, in all colours, striped, spotted, +and plain, and with them the becoming +fashion of the full basque has come in. +Yoked bodices will be a decided winter +style.</p> + +<p>With these bodices there is generally a +turned-down collar and long cuffs of velvet, +and the belt should be also of velvet. In +other cases the belt matches the full bodice, +and is of moiré or Petersham ribbon.</p> + +<p>The fancy for stripes as well as plaids is +shown by the dresses in the illustration of the +autumn fashions. The figure standing in the +centre of our boating picture at the English +lakes, shows a blue flannel or serge, made up +with a striped material. The vest and revers +show the stripe as well as the underskirt.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +The back of this dress is shown by one of the +distant figures. The other wears one of the +new blouse bodices, which will be the style of +the winter. In the larger of our illustrations is +shown the general tendency of the day. The +cloaks and ulsters are of plaid, and there is but +little change in the shapes. The girl in the +sailor's hat shows one of the full white under-vests, +the jacket being almost of a Breton +style. The edge is braided, and so is one +panel at the side of the skirt. The two bonnets, +one in each picture, show one with +strings and one without. They are not quite +so high, and both have the horseshoe crown, +which, as the last summer novelty, bids fair to +be adopted for the autumn and winter.</p> + +<p>The pattern for this month will, I hope, be +a surprise, as well as a great comfort, to those +of my readers who select it, and who wish to +attain to the greatest amount of comfort and +hygienic advantages in their underclothing. +The pattern in question is a combination +nightgown, or lady's "pyjama," and is a +novelty which will be found of much value +and comfort. It consists of five pieces—front, +back, lower back, and two sleeve pieces. +The method of putting together is carefully +indicated by marks in the pattern, and no +difficulty will be experienced in the making-up. +The amount of material required will be +from 4½ to 5 yards, and calico, flannel, or +swansdown, or the new cotton flannel, may, +any of them, be used to make it. For the +winter season it will be found to supply a +great increase in warmth, and, to the invalid, +a great comfort, as it fits closely, will not +form creases, nor "ruck up," as the ordinary +nightgown always does, to the discomfort of +the wearer.</p> + +<p>Each of the patterns may be had of "The +Lady Dressmaker," care of Mr. H. G. Davis, +73, Ludgate-hill, E.C., price 1s. each. It is +requested that the addresses be clearly given, +and that postal notes, crossed so as to be +eligible only to go through a bank, may be +sent, as so many losses have occurred through +the sending of postage stamps. The patterns +already issued can always be obtained, as +"The Lady Dressmaker" shows constantly +in her articles how they can be made use of.</p> + +<p>The following is a list of those already +issued:—April, braided loose-fronted jacket; +May, velvet bodice; June, Swiss belt and +full bodice, with plain sleeves; July, mantle; +August, Norfolk or pleated jacket; September, +housemaid's or plain skirt; October, +combination garment (underlinen); November, +double-breasted out-of-door jacket; December, +zouave jacket and bodice; January, +princess under-dress (under-linen, under-bodice, +and skirt combined); February, polonaise with +waterfall back; March, new spring bodice; +April, divided skirt and Bernhardt mantle +with sling sleeves; May, Early English bodice +and yoke bodice for summer dress; June, +dressing jacket, princess frock, and Normandy +peasant's cap, for a child of four years; July, +Princess of Wales' jacket-bodice and waistcoat +for tailor-made gown; August, bodice +with guimpe; September, mantle with stole +ends and hood. October, "pyjama" or nightdress +combination with full back.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2><a name="THE_SHEPHERDS_FAIRY" id="THE_SHEPHERDS_FAIRY"></a>THE SHEPHERD'S FAIRY<br /> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%;">A PASTORALE.<br /></span> + +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%;"><span class="smcap">By DARLEY DALE</span>, Author of "Fair Katherine," etc.</span></h2> + + +<h3>CHAPTER IV.</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus011.png" width="150" height="274" alt="M" title="" /> +</div> +<p>eanwhile, +Mrs. Shelley +had washed and +dressed her own +three boys, and +had introduced +the little +stranger to the +two elder, +Charlie, the +baby, being already +on intimate +terms with his +foster sister, for whose +sake he had to submit +to much less attention +than had hitherto +fallen to his share, +for which reason he +was unusually cross +this morning. Willie, the second boy, +the living image of his father, was barely +three years old, and too young to pay +much attention to the baby, or to understand +that it had arrived in an unusual +way; but Jack, the eldest boy, quite +took it in, and stood lost in admiration +of the wonderful baby with its beautiful +clothes, so unlike Charlie's, and the +lovely coral and bells, as his mother +showed them all to him. Jack was five +years old, a tall, strong child for his +age, and very like his mother in face; +he had her quick temper, too, though +Mrs. Shelley had hers pretty well under +control, while little Jack often got into +trouble by giving way to his. Nothing +ever escaped Jack's notice; he was +always all ears and eyes, and he took in +every detail of the strange baby's +belongings as intelligently as his mother +could have done, and, to her joy, for she +was by no means sure what kind of a +welcome Jack, who resented the arrival +of little Charlie, saying, "Mother didn't +want anyone else to love her when she +had him," would give to the strange +baby, he was enchanted with it, and +was as anxious as Mrs. Shelley herself +to keep it.</p> + +<p>"It is the fairies' baby; they brought +it, didn't they, mother? We will always, +always keep it, won't we?"</p> + +<p>"I don't quite know yet, Jack; father +says perhaps we shall have to send it +away," said Mrs. Shelley.</p> + +<p>"It shan't go away. How dare +father say so? He is a wicked man to +want to send it away," cried the boy, +with flashing eyes and crimson cheeks.</p> + +<p>"Jack, I am ashamed of you; you +must not speak of your father in that +way; if he says it is to go away it must +go, whether we like it or no."</p> + +<p>Jack hung his head and hid his face +on his mother's shoulder, while she, +remembering how indignant she had +been with the shepherd for hinting at +sending it away the night before, +stooped and kissed her boy's curly head, +and Jack raised his head again and +renewed his attentions to the baby.</p> + +<p>"What a pretty little thing it is; see +how it holds my finger. I think it will +love me, mother, though it is not my real +sister. Oh! do make father keep it, will +you?"</p> + +<p>For the first time since Mrs. Shelley +had had the baby, she now hesitated +about keeping it; the boy had unconsciously +struck a wrong chord, and his +mother, with a prophetic instinct, +coupled with a quick imagination, for a +moment saw that it was possible this +little stranger who, as Jack had already +grasped, was not his real sister, might, +in future years, destroy the harmony and +peace of the home circle. But it was +only a momentary hesitation; the thought +flashed across her mind and vanished +again, almost as quickly as it had come. +Could she have known how true that +prophetic instinct was, would she not +have gone counter to all her own inclinations, +and disregarded all Jack's +wishes and prayers, rather than +have run the risk of introducing strife +into her peaceful household? As it +was, the motherly pity she felt for the +baby was stronger at the moment than +the foreboding light which had flashed +across the distant future, and she +answered hurriedly—</p> + +<p>"I must go and see Mr. Leslie first, +dear, and hear what he says; do you +think you could take care of Charlie +while I am gone with the baby? I shall +take Willie with me, or he will be getting +into mischief."</p> + +<p>Jack, proud to be of use to his mother, +professed his ability to look after +Charlie, privately regretting it was not +the beautiful strange fairies' baby which +was to be left under his charge.</p> + +<p>"Jack, I can't be back before the +clock has struck twelve; it is now half-past +ten, so it will strike twice before I +come back, do you understand; and +both the hands will have to be on the +twelve at the top, do you see? So now, +if it seems a long time, do not be frightened, +I shall be back soon after twelve. +If baby cries, rock the cradle, but don't +try to take him out; if he sleeps you may +wash the potatoes for dinner. Now, +good-bye," and Mrs. Shelley, with the +infant in her arms and Willie running +by her side, set off to the Rectory, while +Jack stood at the door watching her out +of sight.</p> + +<p>The first half-hour passed quickly +enough. The baby slept, and Jack +washed the potatoes, and was delighted +when the clock struck eleven. But the +next hour was interminably long, and +little Jack got very tired of rocking +Charlie, who was awake now, and would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +scream every time his brother stopped +rocking. Every few minutes Jack ran +to the door to see if his mother was +coming, and then ran back and rocked +violently at the cradle. At last he +thought he heard footsteps, and, running +to look, saw, not his mother, but Dame +Hursey, making her way towards the +house.</p> + +<p>Now, Jack did not care about Dame +Hursey's visits even when his mother +was at home. He was half afraid of the +witch-like old woman, and to have a +visit from her while he was alone was +the last thing he desired, so he came in +quickly and banged the door, hoping +she would think they were all out and +go away, if only he could keep Charlie +quiet. But Dame Hursey had seen and +heard the door shut, and so, after knocking +two or three times without any +result, she quietly lifted the latch and +walked in, while Jack, who was kneeling +by the cradle, looked up, half defiantly, +half frightened.</p> + +<p>"Mother is out; there is no one at +home but me," said Jack, sharply.</p> + +<p>"Oh, is she? Well, I'll sit and rest a +bit till she comes in. Who have you got +there in that cradle?"</p> + +<p>"Charlie, my new brother," said +Jack.</p> + +<p>"And where is the fairies' baby? Ah! +you see, I know all about it. I know +everything; there is no keeping secrets +from me. That is the shawl it was +brought in, isn't it, now?" said +Dame Hursey, rising and examining +minutely the Indian shawl in which the +baron had wrapped his daughter, and +which was lying on a chair.</p> + +<p>Jack, more convinced than ever that +Dame Hursey was a witch, thought +perhaps she might be able to tell him +where the fairies had brought the baby +from if he were civil to her, so he +answered all her questions and described +minutely all the baby's belongings.</p> + +<p>"Ah! well, it is the Pharisees you +have to thank for bringing her here. +Mind you all take care of her, and one +of these fine days she'll turn into a +beautiful princess and make you all +very rich; but if you talk much about +her the fairies will be angry and take +her away. You tell your mother I said +so; I can't wait any longer."</p> + +<p>And Dame Hursey, who had been +prying about the kitchen to see if she +could find any other belongings of this +mysterious baby, took her departure, +much to Jack's joy.</p> + +<p>Shortly after she left Mrs. Shelley +came home, and Jack was so full of +Dame Hursey's visit and her account of +the fairies' child that he forgot to ask +the result of his mother's interview with +the rector, while Mrs. Shelley, on the +other hand, was not at all pleased to +find Dame Hursey had been prying +about her cottage in her absence, and +congratulated herself on not having left +any of the baby's little garments about, +for she might never have found them +again if she had.</p> + +<p>The next day the rector called and had +a long talk with the shepherd and his +wife about the baby, though he could +throw but little light upon it, except, of +course, to utterly discredit the ridiculous +notion that the fairies had brought it. +That it belonged to rich people was clear +from its clothes; and to foreigners, from +the coronet, which was certainly not +English. More the rector could not say, +except that its parents evidently wanted +to get rid of it, and had connived at +placing it on the shepherd's doorstep.</p> + +<p>As to keeping it, that was a point +entirely for the shepherd and his wife to +decide. If they chose to send it to the +workhouse, no one could blame them for +doing so. He doubted exceedingly anyone +ever claiming it, but he advised +Mrs. Shelley to lock up all its clothes +and things in case of their being needed +for identification at any future period. +He also counselled them, if they thought +of keeping the child, to weigh the matter +well before they decided, as it would be +cruel kindness to take it in for a time and +then tire of it and send it to the union.</p> + +<p>But John Shelley was not a man to +do this, as his wife well knew. If he +decided to keep the child he would do +his duty by it, and go to the workhouse +himself before he suffered that to do so. +All that day John was very thoughtful, +but when he came in to supper that +night he told Mrs. Shelley he had made +up his mind, and they would keep the +baby and bring it up as their own +daughter. Here, however, Mrs. Shelley +raised an objection.</p> + +<p>"We will keep it, by all means, John, +but we can't bring a delicate little thing +like this up as we shall our own strong +boys, who must work for their living. +This child may be claimed any day by +its parents, so we must try and have it +educated like a lady when it gets old +enough."</p> + +<p>John was inclined to dispute the wisdom +of this; but as its education was a +thing of the far future, he very wisely +thought it was useless to discuss it, and +resolved to let matters shape themselves, +feeling sure the baby would take its own +place as it grew older. One matter +puzzled the good shepherd sorely. He +was most particular in having his own +children baptised when they were a +month old, and they could not tell +whether this baby had been baptised or +no, though the rector thought its parents +were most likely Roman Catholics, in +which case it would be sure to have been +christened, as it was two or three months +old.</p> + +<p>The next question was, what was it to +be called? For, if baptised, they had +no means of discovering its name. But +here Jack came to the rescue.</p> + +<p>"Let's call her Fairy, mother. Dame +Hursey says she is a fairy, and it is a +pretty name."</p> + +<p>"So it is, my son; and though she is +no fairy, but a real child like you, we +will call her Fairy. It is a very good +name for her, and when she is old +enough we will tell her why," said the +shepherd.</p> + +<p>And so Fairy was the little stranger +called as long as she lived in the shepherd's +family.</p> + +<p class="center">(<i>To be continued.</i>)</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="A_PRINCESS_WHO_LIVED_TWO_LIVES" id="A_PRINCESS_WHO_LIVED_TWO_LIVES"></a>A PRINCESS WHO LIVED TWO LIVES.<br /> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%;">A ROMANCE OF HISTORY.</span></h2> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 100px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus012.png" width="100" height="281" alt="T" title="" /> +</div> +<p>here was no lovelier woman in +all the Russias than Carolina, +the wife of Alexis, eldest son and +presumptive heir to Peter the +Great. Her beauty was not only +that of the body, for her sweet +temper and gentle disposition +made her beloved by all who +were brought in contact with +her. The only being who did +not yield to the charms of her +surpassing beauty and amiability +was the one who ought to have +prized her above all others—her +husband. His nature was +far too coarse and brutal to +appreciate the treasure that he possessed, and +the more he saw how universally beloved his +wife was, the more did she become an object +of aversion to him. For some time he treated +her with cold neglect, but by degrees he became +more brutal in his behaviour, until one +day, when she offended him in some trifling +respect, he dealt her an inhuman blow which +stretched her, apparently lifeless, at his feet. +Well pleased at being delivered so easily from +what he only regarded as a hateful burden, he +gave orders that she should be buried with all +due pomp, and hastened away to another part +of the kingdom.</p> + +<p>But when her ladies of honour came to raise +the unhappy princess, they found that she still +breathed. Under the devoted attention of +the Countess of Konigsmark, who had always +been her confidential attendant, she slowly +won her way back to life, and this while her +funeral obsequies were being celebrated with +the greatest pomp throughout the length and +breadth of Russia, while the principal courts +of Europe were mourning her premature decease, +and while her unnatural husband was +drowning the remembrance of his horrible +crime in revelries and excesses of all kinds. +None knew that she was still alive but the +Countess of Konigsmark and one or two other +of her most devoted adherents. They kept +her concealed from everyone; for well they +knew that Alexis, should he hear of her recovery, +would take measures to rid himself of her +effectually. Acting under their advice, the +princess collected all the valuables she was +able to lay her hands on, and, in company with +an old domestic, who assumed the character +of her father, set out for Paris. Here, however, +she felt still within reach of Alexis, and +so, with her supposed father, she set sail for +Louisiana, where the French had lately formed +extensive colonies. They settled down in New +Orleans, and Carolina began to rapidly recover +her health and beauty.</p> + +<p>A young man, by name Moldask, who held +a Government appointment in New Orleans +and who had spent many years in Russia<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +thought that he recognised in the beautiful +stranger the princess who had been the +brightest star of the Muscovite Court. However, +he could not believe that the highborn +lady of whose death he had heard and the +daughter of the feeble old man who had lately +arrived from France were the same person, +wonderful though the resemblance between +them might be. He kept his ideas secret, but +made himself so useful and agreeable to the +strangers, that finally they settled to cast in +their lot with his, and live under the same roof. +Before the lapse of many months the news of +Alexis' death reached New Orleans. Moldask +noticed the agitation with which his friends +received it, and told them that their secret +was his. They did not attempt a denial; so +he offered to sacrifice his private fortune, +throw up his position in New Orleans, and +take Carolina back to Moscow. This offer +she would hear nothing of. She thanked +Moldask again and again for his noble generosity, +but expressed her fixed determination +not to revisit the scene of all that had been +most unpleasant in her life. She begged him +not to betray her secret, and he readily promised +to keep it inviolate. The truth was +that he had lost his heart to the widow of +Czar Peter's son. Respect, however, controlled +his feelings. He knew how exalted +was her real station compared to his, and +resolved to conceal his love.</p> + +<p>Time passed on, and one autumn evening a +pararalytic stroke carried off Carolina's pseudo-father. +After this it was, of course, impossible +that she and Moldask should continue to +inhabit the same house. He came to her on +the morning after her faithful old friend's +funeral, and explained that he must seek a +new abode unless she would so far cast away +all thoughts of her former station as to consent +to call him husband. The princess, who +had long regarded him with feelings warmer +than those of mere friendship, agreed to link +her fate with his, and from now began the +happiest period of her so far troubled life. +Their union was blessed by the advent of a +little girl; nothing seemed wanting to render +her happiness complete.</p> + +<p>Years rolled by, and Moldask was attacked +by a disease which baffled the skill of the New +Orleans doctors. His wife was determined +that he should have the best medical advice, +and so persuaded him to sell all his possessions +and embark for Paris. Their journey +was not in vain; the skill of the Parisian physicians +restored Moldask to good health, and +he obtained employment in a department of +the French Government.</p> + +<p>One day, as Carolina was walking in the +public gardens with her little girl, she met the +son of her faithful friend, the Countess of +Konigsmark. She recognised him instantly, +and, fearing that he might know her, tried to +brush past him with averted head. The +Marshal, however, was struck with her appearance, +and, turning round, followed her until +she sat down beneath some trees. The instant +that he caught a fair sight of her he recognised +his former mistress, and quickly approaching, +bent his knee and carried her hand to his +lips. She implored him not to divulge her +secret, but to come with her to her home, and +hear how she had fared since Alexis had, as +he thought, killed her. The Marshal consented +to accompany her; he listened with +interest to her tale, and when he had heard it to +the end announced his intention of informing +the King of France, that her highness might be +restored to her proper position and honours. +Carolina, however, was quite determined that +this should not be. She begged the Marshal +to keep her secret for one week, as her husband +had certain negotiations, which would be +ruined if her identity were disclosed. This he +consented to do, and Carolina dismissed him, +with the assurance that on that day week he +should be definitely informed of her wishes in +the matter.</p> + +<p>On the appointed day the Marshal found +that the princess and her husband had left +their home. However, he succeeded in tracing +them, and told the king of the noble lady +who was then in his dominions. His Majesty +entered into negotiations with the Empress +Maria Theresa, with a view to deciding upon the +manner in which her august aunt should be +treated. The upshot of these negotiations was +a most tender letter from the Empress to +Carolina, asking her to make the Austrian +court her home, and promising to load her +husband and herself with honours and distinctions. +But the happy wife and mother felt +that the life she had been leading for the last +few years was preferable in every way to the +artificial existence of a court, and refused her +niece's generous offer. It was renewed again +and again; but nothing could shake her determination.</p> + +<p>For many years she led a life of the utmost +happiness, and then death deprived her of +both husband and daughter. Maria Theresa +renewed her offers; but Carolina preferred to +pass the rest of her days in solitude. She +accepted a small pension from the Empress, and +retired to a small cottage at Vitry, near Paris. +After a quiet existence here for some few years +more she passed away, without ever having +regretted her refusal to rejoin the brilliant +circle of a court.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="VARIETIES" id="VARIETIES"></a>VARIETIES.</h2> + + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Curious Fresco.</span></p> + +<p>In the Carthusian Monastery of Garignano, +a few miles from Milan, are some frescoes by +Daniel Crespi, of Busto, which are said to be +marvels of art and imagination. One of them +is grim enough, at any rate, and awful. It +represents a dead person rising from his bier, +to announce to all whom it might concern +that, although they were burying him in the +abode of holiness, and were now adoring +him as a saint, he was, as a fact, condemned +to hell.</p> + +<p>Perhaps one of our own famous modern +divines was thinking of this fresco when he +declared that one great source of surprise, to +those who went to heaven, would be to find +so many there they had not expected to see, +and to <i>miss</i> so many they had thought to +meet.</p> + + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">"No' the day, honest woman!"</span></p> + +<p>Dr. John Erskine, a well-known Scottish +divine, was remarkable for his simplicity of +manner and gentle temper. He returned so +often from the pulpit minus his pockethandkerchief +that Mrs. Erskine at last began to +suspect that the handkerchiefs were stolen by +some of the old women who lined the pulpit +stairs. So both to baulk and detect the +culprit she sewed a corner of the handkerchief +to one of the pockets of his coat tails. Half +way up the pulpit stairs the good doctor felt +a tug, whereupon he turned round to the old +woman whose was the guilty hand, to say, with +great gentleness and simplicity:—</p> + +<p>"No' the day, honest woman, no' the day. +Mrs. Erskine has sewed it in!"</p> + + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">A Brave Wife.</span></p> + +<p>In 1872 a storm overtook a Boston ship on +the banks of Newfoundland. The captain—Captain +Wilson—had his shoulder-blade +broken by the fall of a mast, and the first +mate and part of the crew were at the same +time disabled.</p> + +<p>No sooner, however, had the captain +been carried to his cabin than his wife, a +woman of one-and-twenty, hurried on deck, +told the men to work with a will, and she +would take them into port. The wreckage +was cleared, the pumps manned, and the gale +was weathered. Then a jury-mast was rigged, +the ship put before the wind, and in twenty-one +days she reached St. Thomas. After +repairing damages there, finding her husband +still helpless, the indomitable woman navigated +the ship to Liverpool.</p> + +<p>Captain Wilson was never able to resume +work, and for seven years his brave wife supported +him and their only child by working as +clerk in a dry goods store. Then he died, and +Mrs. Wilson was deservedly appointed to a +custom-house inspectorship by the American +Government.</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Old Friends.</span>—The world has few greater +pleasures than that which two friends enjoy in +tracing back, at some distant time, those +transactions and events through which they +have passed together.—<i>Dr. Johnson.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A Rare Companion.</span>—She whom you +can treat with unreserved familiarity, at the +same time preserving your dignity and her +respect, is a rare companion, and her acquaintance +should be cultivated.</p> + + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Things of Value.</span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">What shines and glitters has its birth<br /></span> +<span class="i2">But for the present hour alone;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The real—the thing of truth and worth—<br /></span> +<span class="i2">To all posterity goes down.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><i>—Goethe.</i><br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Beethoven in Germany.</span>—When the +German talks of symphonies he means Beethoven; +the two names are to him one and +indivisible; his joy, his pride. As Italy has +its Naples, France its Revolution, England its +Navigation, so Germany has its Beethoven +symphonies. The German forgets in his +Beethoven that he has no school of painting; +with Beethoven he imagines that he has again +won the battles that he lost under Napoleon; +he even dares to place him on a level with +Shakespeare.—<i>Robert Schumann.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A New Use for a Dog.</span>—A farmer's +daughter in the West of England received a +hairy poodle dog from a friend in town. The +unsophisticated damsel wrote back thanking +her friend for the present, and saying that she +found it very handy, when tied to a stick, to +clean windows with.</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The Worst of Success.</span>—She that has +never known adversity is but half acquainted +with others or with herself. Constant success +shows us but one side of the world, for, as it +surrounds us with friends who will tell us only +our merits, so it silences those enemies from +whom alone we can learn our defects.</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Rights and Duties.</span>—There is no right +without its duties, and no duty without its +rights.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="MERLES_CRUSADE" id="MERLES_CRUSADE"></a>MERLE'S CRUSADE.<br /> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 75%;"><span class="smcap">By ROSA NOUCHETTE CAREY</span>, Author of "Aunt Diana," "For Lilias," etc.</span></h2> + + +<h3>CHAPTER IV.<br /> + +<span style="font-size: 75%;">MERLE'S LAST EVENING AT HOME.</span></h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus014.png" width="150" height="151" alt=""S" title="" /> +</div> +<p>o it is all settled, +Merle."</p> + +<p>"Yes, Aunt +Agatha," I returned, +briskly, for +she spoke in a +lugubrious voice, +and as one sad +face is enough +beside the family +hearth, I assumed +a tolerably cheerful aspect. If only Aunt +Agatha's eyes would not look at me so +tenderly!</p> + +<p>"Poor child!" she sighed; and then, +as I remained silent, she continued in a +few minutes, "I wish I could reconcile +myself more to the idea, but I cannot +help feeling a presentiment that you will +live to repent this strange step you are +taking."</p> + +<p>I found this speech a little damping, +but I bore it without flinching. One can +never set out down some new road without +a few friendly missiles flying about +one's ears. "Remember, I told you +such and such a thing would happen if +you did not take my advice. I am only +warning you for your good." Alas! +that one's dearest friend should be +transformed into a teasing gad-fly! +What can one do but go straight across +the enemy's country when the boats +are destroyed behind one? I always did +think that a grand action on Xenophon's +part.</p> + +<p>"You have not given me your opinion +of my new mistress," was my wicked +rejoinder.</p> + +<p>Aunt Agatha drew herself up at this +and put on her grandest manner. "You +need not go out of your way to vex me, +Merle. I am sufficiently humiliated +without that."</p> + +<p>"Aunt Agatha," I remonstrated; for +this was too much for my forbearance, +"do you think I would do anything to +vex you when we are to part in a few +days? Oh, you dear, silly woman!" for +she was actually crying, "I am only +longing to know what you think of Mrs. +Morton."</p> + +<p>"She is perfectly lovely, Merle," she +returned, drying her eyes, as I kissed +and coaxed her. "I very nearly fell in +love with her myself. I liked the simple +way in which she sat down and talked +to me about my old pupils, making herself +quite at home in our little drawing-room, +and I was much pleased with her +manner when she spoke about you; it +was almost a pity you came into the +room just then."</p> + +<p>"I left you alone for nearly half an +hour; please to remember that."</p> + +<p>"Indeed! it did not seem nearly so +long. Half an hour! and it passed so +quickly, too. Well, I must say Mrs. +Morton is a most interesting woman; +she is full of intelligence, and yet so +gentle. She has lost her baby—did she +tell you that? only four months ago, and +her husband does not like her to wear +mourning. She is a devoted wife, I can +see that, but I have a notion that you +will have some difficulty in satisfying +Mr. Morton; he is very particular and +hard to please."</p> + +<p>"I have found out that for myself; he +is a man of strong prejudices."</p> + +<p>"Well, you must do your best to conciliate +him; tact goes a long way in +these cases. Mrs. Morton has evidently +taken a fancy to you, Merle. She told +me over again how her baby boy had +made friends with you at once; she said +your manner was very frank and winning, +and though you looked young you +seemed very staid and self-reliant."</p> + +<p>"I wish Uncle Keith had heard that. +Did she say any more about me, Aunt +Agatha?"</p> + +<p>"No, you interrupted us at that point, +and the conversation became more +general; but, my dear, I must scold you +about one thing: how absurd you were to +insist on wearing caps. Mrs. Morton was +quite embarrassed; she said she would +never have mentioned such a thing."</p> + +<p>"But I have set my heart on wearing +them, Aunt Agatha," I returned, very +quickly; "you have no idea how nice I +shall look in a neat bib apron over my +dark print gown, and a regular cap such +as hospital nurses wear. I should be quite +disappointed if I did not carry out that +part of my programme; the only thing +that troubles me is the smallness of my +salary—I mean wages. Thirty pounds +a year will never make my fortune."</p> + +<p>"You cannot ask more with a good +conscience, Merle; you have never been +out before, and have no experience. +Mrs. Morton said herself that her husband +had promised to raise it at the end +of six months if you proved yourself competent; +it is quite as much as a nursery +governess's salary."</p> + +<p>"Oh, I am not mercenary," I replied, +hastily, "and I shall save out of thirty +pounds a year. I must keep a nice +dress for my home visits and for Sundays, +though it is dreadful to think that I +shall not always go to church every +Sunday until little Joyce is older; that +will be a sad deprivation."</p> + +<p>"Yes, my poor child, but you must +not speak as though this were the only +serious drawback; you will find plenty +of difficulties in your position; even Mrs. +Morton confessed that."</p> + +<p>"The world is full of difficulties," I +returned, loftily; "there have been +thorns and briars ever since Adam's +time. Do you remember your favourite +fable of the old man and the bundle of +sticks, Aunt Agatha? I mean to treat my +difficulties in the same way he managed +his. I shall break each stick singly."</p> + +<p>She smiled approvingly at this, and +then, as Uncle Keith's knock reached +her ear, she rose quickly and went out of +the room.</p> + +<p>The moment I was left alone my +assumed briskness of manner dropped +into the mental dishabille that we wear +for our own private use and comfort. +Those two had always so much to say to +each other that I was sure of at least +half an hour's solitude, and in some +moods self is the finest company. Yes, +I had destroyed my boats, and now my +motto must be "Forward!" This afternoon +I had pledged myself to a new +service—a service of self-renunciation +and patient labour, undertaken—yes, I +dare to say it—for the welfare of the +large sisterhood of waiting and working +women. A servant? No, a soldier; for I +should be one among the vanguard, +who strive to make a breach in the +great fortress of conventionality. Not +that I feared the word service, considering +what Divine lips had said on that +subject—"I am among you as one who +serveth—" but I knew how the world +shrank from such terms.</p> + +<p>I have always maintained that half +the so-called difficulties of life consist +mainly in our dread of other people's +opinions; women are especially trammelled +by this bondage. They breathe +the atmosphere of their own special +world, and the chill wind of popular +opinion blows coldly over them; like the +sensitive plant, they shiver and wither +up at a touch. I believe the master +minds that achieve great things have +created their own atmosphere, else how +can they appear so impervious to criticism? +How can they carry themselves +so calmly, when their contemporaries are +sneering round them? We must live +above ourselves and each other; there is +no other way of getting rid of the shams +and disguises of life; and yet how is one +who has been born in slavery to be absolutely +true? How is an English gentlewoman +to shake off the prejudices of +caste and declare herself free?</p> + +<p>Ah, well! this was the enigma I had +set myself to solve. And now the old +life—the protected girl's life—was receding +from me; the old guards, the old +landmarks were to be removed by my +own hands. Should I live to repent my +rash act, as Aunt Agatha predicted, or +should I at some future time, when I +looked back upon this wintry day, thank +God, humbly and with tears of gratitude, +that I had courage given me to see the +right and do it, "ad finem fidelis," +faithful to the last?</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>I found those last few days of home-life +singularly trying. Indeed, I am not +sure that I was not distinctly grateful +when the final evening arrived. When +one has to perform a painful duty there +is no use in lingering over it; and when +one is secretly troubled, a spoken and +too discursive sympathy only irritates +our mental membrane. How could Job, +for example, tolerate the sackcloth and +ashes, and, worse still, the combative +eloquence of his friends?<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> + +<p>Aunt Agatha's pathetic looks and +pitying words fretted me to the very +verge of endurance. I wished she +would have been less mindful of my +comforts, that she would not have +insisted on helping me with my sewing, +and loading me with little surprises in the +shape of gifts. But for the bitter cold +that kept me an unwilling prisoner by +the fireside, I would have escaped into +my own room to avoid the looks that +seemed to follow me everywhere.</p> + +<p>But I would not yield to my inward +irritability; I hummed a tune; I even +sang to myself, as I hemmed my new +bib aprons, or quilled the neat border for +my cap. Nay, I became recklessly gay +the last night, and dressed myself in +what I termed my nurse's uniform, a +dark-navy blue cambric, and then went +down to show myself to Uncle Keith, +who was reading aloud the paper +to Aunt Agatha. I could see him +start as I entered; but Aunt Agatha's +first words made me blush, and in +a moment I repented my misplaced +spirit of fun.</p> + +<p>"Why, Merle, how pretty you look! +Does not the child look almost pretty, +Ezra, though that cap does hide her nice +smooth hair? I had no idea that dress +would be so becoming." But the rest of +Aunt Agatha's speech was lost upon me, +for I ran out of the room. Why, they +seemed actually to believe that I was +play-acting, that my part was a becoming +one! Pretty, indeed! And here such +a strange revulsion of feeling took +possession of me that I absolutely shed +a few tears, though none but myself was +witness to this humiliating fact.</p> + +<p>I did not go downstairs for a long +time after that, and then, to my relief, I +found Uncle Keith alone; for men are +less sharp in some matters than women, +and he would never find out that I had +been crying, as Aunt Agatha would; but +I was a little taken aback when he put +down his paper, and asked, in a kind +voice, why I had stayed so long in the +cold, and if I had not finished my packing.</p> + +<p>"Oh, yes," I returned, promptly, +"everything was done, and my trunk +was only waiting to be strapped down."</p> + +<p>"That is right," he said, quite +heartily, "always be beforehand with +your duties, Merle; your aunt tells me +you have made up your mind to leave us +in the morning. I should have thought +the afternoon or early evening would +have been better."</p> + +<p>"Oh, no, Uncle Keith," I exclaimed, +and then, oddly enough, I began to +laugh, and yet the provoking tears +would come to my eyes, for a vision of +sundry school domestics arriving towards +night with their goods and chattels, +and the remembrance of their shy faces +in the morning light seemed to evoke a +sort of dreary mirth; but to my infinite +surprise and embarrassment, Uncle +Keith patted me on the shoulder as +though I were a child.</p> + +<p>"There, there; never mind showing +a bit of natural feeling that does you +credit; your aunt is fretting herself to +death over losing you—Hir-rumph; and +I do not mind owning that the house +will be a trifle dull without you; and, of +course, a young creature like you must +feel it, too." And with that he took my +hands, awkwardly enough, and began +warming them in his own, for they +were blue with cold. If Aunt Agatha +had only seen him doing it, and me, +with the babyish tears running down my +face.</p> + +<p>"Why, look here," continued Uncle +Keith, cheerily, with a sort of cricket-like +chirp, "we are all as down as +possible, just because you are leaving +us, and yet you will only be two or three +miles away, and any day if you want us +we can be with you. Why, there is no +difficulty, really; you are trying your +little experiment, and I will say you are +a brave girl for venturing on such a +brave scheme. Well, if it does not +answer, here is your home, and your +own corner by the fireside, and an old +uncle ready to work for you. I can't say +more than that, Merle."</p> + +<p>"Oh, Uncle Keith," I returned, sobbing +remorsefully, "why are you so good +to me, when I have always been so ungrateful +for your kindness?"</p> + +<p>"Nay, nay, we will leave bygones +alone," he answered, a little huskily. +"I never minded your tandrums, knowing +there was a good heart at the bottom. +I only wished I was not such a dry old +fellow, and that you could have been +fonder of me. Perhaps you will understand +me better some day, and——" Here +he stopped and cleared his throat, and +said "hir-rumph" once or twice, and +then I felt a thin crackling bit of paper +underneath my palm. "It will buy you +something useful, my dear," he finished, +getting up in a hurry. A five-pound +note, and he had lost so much money +and had to do without so many comforts! +Who can wonder that I jumped up and +gave him a penitent hug.</p> + +<p>It was long before I slept that night, +and my first waking thoughts the next +morning were hardly as pleasant as +usual. A premonitory symptom of homesickness +seized me as I glanced round +my little room in the dim, winter light. +Aunt Agatha had made it so pretty; but +here a certain suspicious moisture stole +under my eyelids, and I gave myself a +resolute shake, and commenced my +toilet in a business-like way that chased +away gloomy thoughts.</p> + +<p>Never had the little dining-room +looked more inviting than when I +entered it that morning. One of Uncle +Keith's carefully hoarded logs blazed +and crackled in the roomy fireplace, a +delicious aroma of coffee and smoking +ham pervaded the room. Aunt Agatha, +in her pretty morning cap, was placing +a vase of hothouse flowers some old +pupil had sent her in the centre of the +table, and the bullfinch was whistling as +merrily as ever, while old Tom watched +him, sleepily, from the rug. I was +rather long warming my hands and +stroking his sleek fur, for somehow I +could not bring myself to look or speak +in quite my ordinary manner; and +though Uncle Keith did his best to +enliven us by reading out scraps from +his newspaper, I am afraid we gave him +only a partial attention. When Uncle +Keith had bade me a husky good-bye, +and had gone to his office, Aunt Agatha +and I made a grand feint of being busy. +There was very little to do, really, but I +considered it incumbent to be in a great +state of activity. I am afraid to say +how many times I ran up and down +stairs for articles that were safely +deposited at the bottom of my box. +Aunt Agatha put a stop to it at last by +taking my hand and putting me forcibly +in Uncle Keith's big chair.</p> + +<p>"Sit there and keep warm, Merle; +the cab will not be here for another +half hour; what is the use of our +pretending that we are not exceedingly +unhappy? My dear, you are leaving +us with a sore heart, I can see that, +and it only makes me love you all the +better. Yes, indeed, Merle," for I was +clinging to her now and sobbing softly +under my breath; "and however things +may turn out, whether this step be a failure +or not, I will always say that you are a +brave girl, who tried to do her duty."</p> + +<p>"Are you sure you think that, Aunt +Agatha?"</p> + +<p>Then she smiled to herself a little +sadly.</p> + +<p>"You remind me of the baby Merle +who was so anxious to help everyone. +I remember you such a little creature, +trying to lift the nursery chair, because +your mother was tired; and how you +dragged it across the room until you +were red in the face, and came to me +rubbing your little fat hands, and looking +so important. 'The chair hurted +baby drefful, but it might hurted poor +mammy worser:' that was what you +said. I think you would still hurt yourself +'drefful' if you could help someone +else."</p> + +<p>It was nice to hear this. What can +be sweeter or less harmful than praise +from one we love? It was nice to sit +there with Aunt Agatha's soft hand in +mine, and be petted. It would be long +before I should have a cosy time with +her again. It put fresh heart in me +somehow; like Jonathan's taste of +honey, "it lightened my eyes," so that +when the final good-bye came, I could +smile as I said it, and carry away an +impression of Aunt Agatha's smile too, +as she stood on the steps, with Patience +behind her, watching until I was out of +sight. I am afraid I am different to +most young women of my age—more +imaginative, and perhaps a little morbid. +Many things in everyday life came +to me in the guise of symbols or signs—a +good-bye, for example. A parting +even for a short time always appears to +me a faint type of that last solemn parting +when we bid good-bye to temporal +things. I suppose kind eyes will watch +us then, kind hands clasp ours; as we +start on that long journey they will bid +God help us, as with failing breath and, +perhaps, some natural longings for the +friends we love, we go out into the great +unknown, waiting until a Diviner Guide +take us by the hand. "God help you, +poor soul," we seem to hear them say, +and perhaps we hear the drip of their +tears as they say it; but in that other +room, who can tell how gently those +human drops will be wiped away, in that +place where pain and trouble are unknown?</p> + +<p class="center">(<i>To be continued.</i>)<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="ANSWERS_TO_CORRESPONDENTS" id="ANSWERS_TO_CORRESPONDENTS"></a>ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.</h2> + +<h3>MISCELLANEOUS.</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Imperium et Libertas.</span>—There is no question of +etiquette in the matter of the Highland friends of +the bridegroom appearing at the wedding in their +national costume. It is only a matter for their own +decision and their friends' permission.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">V. D. V.</span>—You were exceedingly wrong in taking +walks with any man without your parents' permission, +and you degraded yourself by enlisting the +aid of a servant to get letters from him unknown to +them, and so led her to do wrong and to act in an +untrustworthy way to her master and mistress. You +ought to tell her that you regret having so done, and +will do so no more.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">A Devonshire Dumpling</span> says: "I would rather not +drink vinegar or raw lemon-juice, if you do not mind, +please." Dear little reader, pray do not feel uneasy +on that score; nothing is further from our wishes! +If your health be so good, leave yourself and your +wholesome fat alone. If out of health, the case is +otherwise. Dropsical puffing should be prescribed +for by a doctor.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ross-shire Lassie.</span>—The 5th October, 1869, was a +Tuesday; the 25th March, 1865, was a Saturday.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lily.</span>—The passage you quote may mean that the +blessed ones who have attained to perfect purity in +the kingdom of their Father above were greater than +the greatest still on earth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">A Lively Girl</span> is not likely to "get +too stout." She inquires, "What +is the best kind of a <i>fiancé</i> to +have?" Judging of her suitability +for assuming the responsibility of +selecting one, and of leaving her +mother's sheltering wing, we should +reply—a gilt gingerbread man.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">A Meteor.</span>—The Rosicrucians were +a mystic brotherhood, made known +to the outer world in certain books +published in 1614-15-16. The last +book, published in 1616, was acknowledged +by Johann Valentine +Andreæ, and entitled "The Chymische +Hochzeit Christiani Rosenkreuz." +The former works are likewise +described by him. From these +we learn that one Christian Rosenkreuz, +a German noble of the fourteenth +century, founded a brotherhood +of seven adepts on his return +from the East, and that among their +laws was one that they should each +heal the sick gratis (or, at least, +endeavour to do so), should meet +annually at a certain secret place, +and adopt the symbol of the <i>Rose +Crux</i>, or rose springing from a +cross, the device on Luther's seal. +In 1622 societies of alchymists at +The Hague and elsewhere assumed +this title, and the tenets of the community +were held by Cabalists, +Freemasons, and Illuminati, and +professed also by Cagliostro. It is +said that a Lodge of Rosicrucians +now exists in London.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tumpy.</span>—Our answers depend on the +questions and style of the letters +addressed to us. You were right in +your surmise. Your writing is +legible, but not sufficiently regular. +If you write us a ridiculous letter +we promise you a suitable answer. +We are so sorry for your poor father. +Could he not subscribe for <i>Punch</i>, +or procure a few copies of the +famous "Mrs. Brown" series?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Highland Mary</span> inquires, "Who was the author of +the first settler, and where is it?" How can we tell +"where it is"? There have been "first settlers" in +every part of the globe. The first part of your letter +is better written than the concluding portion, and +gives good promise for a good running hand by-and-by.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">C. Horsell.</span>—The lines you send us are very faulty; +in fact, are only badly-rhymed prose; but if it amuses +you to write such, do not desist, as outlets are useful +to very young people, and it seems desirable for +them to give vent to their feelings a little.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Nolens Volens.</span>—Many people do not begin "My +dear So-and-So," nor end with "Yours sincerely," +etc., on a postcard, but merely write their address +in full at the top, and the message signed beneath it, +with initials only. But you can do as you like in the +matter; there is no rule. We wonder that, having +such suspicions of our honesty, you continued to read +our paper.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rousseau</span> and <span class="smcap">Flossy</span>.—We know of no cure for mere +nervousness, unless, as sometimes happens, it passes +into a disease, when a doctor should be consulted. +Try to forget yourself in the pleasure of adding to +the enjoyment of others.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hope Atheling.</span>—<i>A.E.I.</i> means "for ever." "I don't +think" is a common colloquialism used by everyone, +and is not more incorrect than such expressions +generally are.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">J. S. F.</span>—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Not even the tenderest heart, and next our own,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Knows half the reasons why we smile and sigh,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>is from Keble's "Christian Year," 24th Sunday after +Trinity, verse 1.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Marie.</span>—The quotation—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"A primrose by a river's brim<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A yellow primrose was to him,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And it was nothing more,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>is from Wordsworth's poem, "Peter Bell," part i.; +stanza 12.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Era.</span>—The signification of the bee appearing on the +monument of the Prince Imperial, is that the French +royal mantle and standard were thickly sown with +golden bees instead of "Louis flowers" or <i>Fleurs de +lys</i>. The origin dates back to the time of the early +Egyptians, who symbolised their kings under this +emblem, the honey indicating the reward they gave +to the well-doers, and the sting the punishment +they inflicted on the evil. More than 300 golden +bees were found in the tomb of Childeric, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1653. +Offer your song to some composer. Sometimes they +are in request; more frequently there are more +offered than are required. All depends on the fancy +of the composer. Only two questions are allowed, +and the answers +given at the discretion +of the +Editor. We regret +that you have +been disappointed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/gop_86_11_23_illus016.png" width="400" height="398" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cissie.</span>—You cannot +interfere with +the laudable work of the rector in building a school-house +for the use of his parishioners; it is his duty. +But the parents of the children will have the right +of choice between this school and your private one. +Mourning for a parent lasts a year; but you are +free to wear it longer if you like.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Winnie E. L.</span>—You should consult a doctor. We +cannot usurp his place, though we are always willing +to give sensible advice on hygienic and sanitary +matters.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Polly</span> and <span class="smcap">Others</span>.—The measurements of a classic +figure, as given on authority, are: height, 5 feet +4½ inches; bust, 32 inches; waist, 24 inches; +9 inches from under the arm to the waist, with long +arms and neck. The proportions of a larger and +more stately woman or girl would be: height, 5 feet +5 or 6 inches; bust, 36 inches; waist 26½ inches; +hips 35 inches; thick part of arm, 11½ inches; +wrist, 6½ inches. The hands and feet should not be +too small. "Polly" will see that no arrangements +are made by judges of true beauty and its lines for +waists of 15 or 16 inches. They are simply deformities.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Buddie.</span>—The book was published anonymously.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">C. B. Gloucester.</span>—Easter Day fell on the 25th March, +in 1546, 1641, 1736, 1886, and will fall next time in 1943. +Tram, used as a prefix to way and road, is the last +syllable of the name of their inventor, Mr. Benjamin +Outram, who in 1800 made improvements in the +system of railways for common roads, then in use in +the North of England. The first iron tramroad from +Croydon to Wandsworth was completed July 24th, +1801. Mr. Outram was the father of the celebrated +Indian general, Sir James Outram.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Wild Hyacinth.</span>—We know of nothing save to benefit +your general health. The intense perspiration is +evidently an effort of nature. Do you take a tepid +bath every morning, and as much exercise as possible? +You have doubtless received your book.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">R. H. P.</span>—We do not think cold and haughty people +are at all nice, nor do we think they could be happy +themselves, or make others happy. The Christian +ideal is neither coldness nor haughtiness, but sympathy +and love. You must take care of those long +tails at the end of your words in writing. Better tie +them up as the Dutch farmers do the tails of their +cows. They are in writing ugly and useless appendages.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Nannie B.</span> and <span class="smcap">Fiddlesticks</span> have our best thanks +for their letters.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Isis.</span>—We are much obliged for the account of your +visit to the Temple, and we regret we can make no +use of it. You will acquire more ease in writing by +constant practice.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gertrude.</span>—We think the first year you must take +what is offered to you in the way of salary.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">A Field Officer's Daughter.</span>—We +have perused the two poems, +and consider that they hold some +promise of better things, though +both are faulty in construction and +rhyme.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Inconsistency's</span> paper is too much +like a schoolgirl's composition for +our pages; but she evidently tries +to think, which is more than many +people do.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Elsie.</span>—We never heard any more of +the saying about Brighton, than "a +country without trees and a sea +without ships," and we have looked +for the original authorship in vain.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sweet Violets.</span>—We know of nothing +but constant rubbing and the +practice of gymnastics to do your +shoulders good. You probably have +some trick of standing crookedly +that has helped to make it grow out, +such as standing on one leg, or giving +down on one side.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Forever and Ever</span> writes English +very well, though her writing is +rather too pointed to suit English +tastes. But at 16 she has plenty of +time to alter it if she likes.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">B. H. M. W.</span>—The lines show much +good feeling and affection, but no +poetic talent.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">A Well Wisher.</span>—Rydal and Loughrigg, +a township of England, Co. +Westmoreland, on the Leven, two +miles N.W. of Ambleside, celebrated +for its beautiful lake, on the +banks of which stands Rydal +Mount, long the residence of the +poet Wordsworth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Madge.</span>—We think "Madge" must not worry herself, +as she certainly cannot help people who will not +allow themselves to be helped, in her way at least of +assisting them; good advice is generally unpalatable. +She must look on the best side of the matter, and +hope that her friend may be happy and comfortable +in her own way. We doubt that you could have +prevented the marriage, as your friend is very +likely tired of the trouble of earning her living, and +thinks of marriage as a way of escape. You must +commend both her and her affairs to God, and cease +worrying yourself.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Nell.</span>—Your mother's brother is your uncle, no matter +whether by the father or the mother. To put the +case in another way, your grandfather's son is your +uncle by whatever wife he had, first or fourth. Of +course you could not marry him. See the "table +of degrees of affinity" in the Book of Common +Prayer.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">One of our Girls.</span>—We think that men not much +exposed to cold and damp, and night work, such as +sailors and soldiers, do not need the warmth nor +stimulant obtained by smoking any more than +women do. Nevertheless, a single cigar or pipe +daily would not be injurious to a grown man, though +much so to a young lad in his teens. Men are so +careless about cleansing their pipes from that +poisonous nicotine, that multitudes have found their +habit of excessive smoking a highly provoking cause +of cancer in the mouth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hebridean.</span>—We think some foolish person has been +worrying you with nonsensical fault-finding. We can +not see that you were wrong in any way. You were +with other girls and with your brothers, and that +should be sufficient protection, whoever you were +walking with. Do not allow yourself to be teased.</p> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Girl's Own Paper, Vol. VIII: No. +356, October 23, 1886., by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER, VOL. *** + +***** This file should be named 18395-h.htm or 18395-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/3/9/18395/ + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Girl's Own Paper, Vol. VIII: No. 356, October 23, 1886. + +Author: Various + +Release Date: May 15, 2006 [EBook #18395] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER, VOL. *** + + + + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + +THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER + +VOL. VIII.--NO. 356. + +OCTOBER 23, 1886. + +PRICE ONE PENNY. + + + + +A DREAM OF QUEENS' GARDENS.[1] + +A STORY FOR GIRLS.--IN TWO PARTS. + +BY DANIEL DORMER. Author of "Out of the Mists." + + +PART II. + +A QUEEN'S DREAM. + +[Illustration: "LILACS AND LABURNUM TREES BLOOM ABUNDANTLY AROUND."] + +Yet the recollection of that book is helping to soften Hazel. There is a +tender bit of writing at the close of the lecture which can hardly fail +to reach any woman's heart, unless it be wholly hardened; and Hazel's is +not a hard heart. So she muses on it, growing gradually calmer and +happier. After all, she might be of some use in the world if she were to +try, and if One Divine would be with her. + +She stoops down to throw some coal on the fire. She is too much +exhausted physically to make it up carefully; but with an effort piles +on large blocks and small indiscriminately, then throws in a handful of +matches from a box within reach. What strange chaos there seems to be in +the grate after a little while! One after another the matches go off +with a phiz and short-lived flare, and each seems to light up a more +curious scene than the last. From being mere piled-up blocks of coal in +a grate, they grow to be a half blocked up entrance to some unknown +place. There is a large shining black portal, half ruined, surrounded +with _debris_. By degrees Hazel's languid curiosity is excited, and she +wonders whither it leads. Why should she not explore?... The next match +which takes fire lights up the slight form leaning far back in the big +chair, with the soft, golden brown hair half loosened, and the dark, +shadowed eyes fast closed. And Hazel has passed through the dark +gateway, and is in a wonderful world. + +What a strange black gateway to have led into so fair a garden! Hazel +pauses at the entrance, her eyes glistening, her breath taken away with +delight at the beauty of the scene before her. A paradise of fresh green +shade and exquisite light and colouring. Wide-spreading chestnuts, +graceful, feathery birches, and a hundred other trees, clothed and robed +in their tender young leaves, mingle with a glory of pink and white +spring blossom, which seems to fill the air like a snowstorm in the +clear, blue sky. The South wind blows and fans Hazel's cheek, and wafts +delicious breath of flowers and sweet-brier around her. Beneath the +shower of snowy blossom stretches smooth, green grass, and masses of +brilliant flowers glow, expanding their petals up towards the sun. + +After a while Hazel wanders forward in a dreamy intoxication of delight, +every moment discovering fresh beauties. She finds a beautiful grotto, +where are large rocks and cascades and running streams and fountains. +She enters by a low archway of stone, covered with drooping ferns, and +there, right before her, is a large clear pool at the foot of a huge +rock. She flushes with the prettiest of shy pleasure and frank +admiration at sight of her own reflection. + +How beautiful! A girl in a long, white robe, with a sweet, dark-eyed +face, which she knows to be her own. She is leaning slightly forward, +and the eyes--so often heavy and weary--are brimming with happiness, the +lips parted in a smile. Her hair, with its pretty, sunny ripples, is +unbound, and the wind blows it slightly back from her shoulders. And, +most wonderful and striking of all, a circlet of pure gold rests upon +the shapely head, and a second circlet is clasped round the waist. Then +she is a queen? No doubt of it. And then comes, to the joy of admiration +of all she has seen, the added joy of certainty that all is her own. +This is a queen's garden, and she is the happy queen! + +More and more dawns gradually upon her. There are those near at hand +dear to her, to whom she is also dear, whose queen she is. Oh the joy of +it all! She clasps her hands in ecstasy, and the pretty reflection in +the pool is more than ever lovely, only she has forgotten it now. + +A serious thought must have come into Hazel's mind, for suddenly a +different expression appears in her eyes; a look of perplexity and shade +of sorrow. The consciousness in her new life is growing, and, alas! it +is not unmixed with pain. This garden is not all the world, then? She +puts her hand to her brow, trying to recall something. Slowly it comes +back to her in words, noble words, spoken by one whose face is a +darkness to her. And she listens-- + +"It is you queens only who can feel the depths of pain, and conceive the +way to its healing." + +Ah! that is enough. She has lost her desire to recall more. She would +fain turn back to the former delight and forget the existence of pain. +But the steady voice persists, and will not be quenched. + +"Instead of trying to do this, you turn away from it; you shut +yourselves within your park walls and garden gates; and you are content +to know that there is beyond them a whole world in wilderness, a world +of secrets which you dare not penetrate, and of suffering which you dare +not conceive." + +Hazel looks round on the garden. How pleasant it is! Why should she +leave it? Why should she concern herself with what may lie outside this +home-kingdom of hers? She tries again to banish the voice, yet she knows +in her heart, if she would only look for its knowledge, that, outside of +that little rose-covered wall, the wild grass, to the horizon, is torn +up by the agony of men, and beat level by the drift of their life-blood. + +Yes, it is useless; there is no escaping the truth the voice tells. So +Hazel yields herself to listen as it goes on. + +"I knew you would like that to be true; you would think it a pleasant +magic if you could flush your flowers into brighter bloom by a kind look +upon them; nay, more, if your look had the power, not only to cheer, but +to guard.... This you would think a great thing! And do you not think it +a greater thing that all this (and how much more than this) you can do +for fairer flowers than these, flowers that could bless you for having +blessed them, and will love you for having loved them; flowers that have +thoughts like yours, and lives like yours, and which, once saved, you +save for ever? Is this only a little power? Far among the moorlands and +the rocks, far in the darkness of the terrible streets, these feeble +florets are lying, with all their fresh leaves torn and their stems +broken; will you never go down to them, nor set them in order in their +little fragrant beds, nor fence them, in their trembling, from the +fierce wind?" + +Engrossed with the voice, Hazel has been walking on, little heeding +whither she goes, when, as its tones die away, a groan startles her. How +terrible its sound; how incongruous, interrupting the soft harmonious +chorus of the soaring, singing birds! So painfully near it seemed, too, +it could but have been a very little distance off outside that gate +which she sees before her. Her first impulse is to draw back and retire, +shuddering, far into the garden. But, behold! the gate swings back of +its own accord, and in the face of that fact, and with the remembrance +of the words she has heard, she dare not do other than pass through the +open way. + +What a strange, wide world, and how dreary! A great, mad battle is +raging; the grass, sloping up to the horizon, is scorched with the heat +of the sun--the sun which only made a pleasant warmth in the shady +garden. There is the fierce galloping of horses, and wrestling and +fighting of men. Shouts and groans fill the air and drown the song of +the birds. There are heaps of dying and wounded. Ah! there is one man +not a stone's throw from her; his must have been the voice that reached +her within her gates. How remarkable that she should have heard nothing +before of all the great din. Another groan, followed by some inaudible +words, causes Hazel timidly to approach the wounded man. He is evidently +one of the very poorest of the "common" soldiers; and there is a look in +his face which speaks the word death with a shudder in the girl's heart. +A gleam lightens the agony in the man's eyes as he sees the white form +and gentle face above him. He gazes steadily a moment, as though to make +sure his vision is not a passing illusion; then Hazel catches the words, +"Were you sent to me?" + +Very quietly she tells him in whose name she comes. Then, with a long, +struggling sigh of satisfaction, without a shadow of further questioning +in the dying eyes or voice, he whispers--"Hope even for me in Him, then, +since He sent you!" + +So the low, flickering flame of life, set free, leaps up to its source; +and the forsaken home rests in unbroken peace. + +Saddened, and yet peaceful, too, Hazel turns slowly away from the +battle-field, and walks on, not noticing whither she goes. Jarring +sounds recall her, and she finds herself in a narrow valley, surrounded +by noisy children and brawling women. No one seems conscious of her +presence. A lot of men are lounging against the wall of a public-house. +The low building is conspicuous by its being in good repair, while its +neighbours are all in a shattered condition. The window-frames are +painted and varnished, and the open entrance discloses a smart interior. +A few doors beyond this the houses reach the climax of desolate +disorder. The whole place is tumbling down; the window is broken; the +battered door is off its hinges, propped up against the wall. A cripple +girl is sitting on a broken box, turned upside down, immediately outside +this miserable hovel. Her face is a greater shock to Hazel than any of +the other wretchedness around. There is a desperation of bitterness in +that set, white face, with its hollow eyes and cheeks, which is +absolutely appalling. Hazel had always imagined that suffering must of +necessity, by its own inherent nature, bring with it a patience which +would be reflected in a sweet face. Slowly, as she scans those immovable +features, full of pain, and still more full of dogged rebellion, this +idea has to be abandoned. Here obviously is a human being in the midst +of a noisy squalor, whose physical disease and torture is unlightened by +one softening ray of hope; whose misery is too sullen and dull to rise +even to the hope of putting an end to itself. + +One moment and the deformed girl starts apprehensively. A sob has +sounded in her ear, and some one, unlike any she has ever seen +heretofore, stands beside her, taking her hand in mute, unspeakable +compassion. She cowers back against the wall and drags away her hand; +Hazel's purity and loveliness raises in her only a shrinking dislike and +dread of contact. + +It is long before the pleading, loving voice gains any hearing; but at +last, before the two part, some faint expression of intelligent thought +has dawned on the lame girl's brow; and in her mind a question has been +raised, "Can it be that there is one who loves me and has need of me?" + +The evening sunlight is falling through the birches in the beautiful +garden; the air is full of fragrance and harmony; the queen is +returning. Wearily she opens the gate to enter. She is filled with pain, +for the many sadnesses to which she has drawn near have touched her own +soul with the shadow of suffering. + +Suddenly, in the chequered shade of the trees at the entrance of the +garden, she stops and turns round, for a bright radiance envelops her. +And, lo! there stands One, in glorious light--One in whose Divine face +love is shining. Hazel bows down, her whole soul overwhelmed with +reverent awe. Then her hand is taken and held with a touch which thrills +her with exquisite rapture, and a voice in her ears says-- + +"Come, see with Me My garden." + +And the air, which is filled with light, grows buoyant, and, while her +hand is still clasped by the Divine Guide, she is wafted upwards. + +Stretched out below, the hills and vales of the earth are one vast +garden. All is indistinct at first; expanses of misty colour and tint; +but by degrees the scene resolves itself into more definite form. The +whole is intersected and watered with streams, more or less clear and +pure, which arise and are replenished from a bright vapour, the Spirit +of Life, which shines, issuing forth from an empty tomb in a rock in the +East. There are banks of wild violets and primroses, and woods filled +with anemones and hyacinths--myriads of beautiful flowers, reaching over +all the world. + +Hazel has hardly taken in anything of the wonder of the scene, when her +attention is attracted by an arch of white mist above the earth, and, as +it seems, but a few paces from her. Gradually this path of mist grows +clear as crystal, and the colours glancing in it take shape, and form a +clear, transparent picture. + +A cornfield on a summer evening, filled with blossoms of poppies and +corn-flowers. A wild storm sweeps over the field; the corn is broken +down; the flowers are crushed beneath its weight, draggled and withered. +A poppy, torn up by its roots, is whirled through the air. + +A mist sweeps over the crystalline cloud, and where it grows clear again +the scene is changed to a wild hill-side. Scarlet and blue flowers +intermingle in the distance; in the foreground lies a single poppy, +withered and dying. Slowly, beside it a lily grows up; as it grows the +fading poppy is stirred, touched by its leaves; and the tiny bells +waving over it inspire new life and vigour, till at length, grown whole +and fresh, it is loosened from the brown uptorn roots, and floats +upwards, to bloom more beautiful in Paradise. + +Again the mist passes over the light picture and changes it. A woodland +scene is painted there now. Amid the fern and moss and twigs under the +trees, wild flowers are blowing. A pathway intersects the little wood, +and across it shadows of the trees fall, with sunlight between. In the +foremost patch of sunshine, at the edge of the path, is a sprinkling of +anemone leaves. And there amongst them a delicate blossom, half crushed +by the superincumbent weight of moss, the fallen leaves of last year, +and tiny, lichen-covered twigs. The white, transparent petals are soiled +and deformed, thrust down to the earth. As Hazel looks, regretting that +she has not the power to stretch forth her hand and clear away the +destructive weight, the leaves and twigs tremble, and are uplifted, and +fall away from the slender plant, for close beside it a hardy little +fern frond slowly uncurls itself and arises. The frail blossom stirs +slightly, released from the overwhelming pressure; but has no strength +to do more. Oh, for water to revive it! And, lo! from the fair green +fern drops of dew embosomed there are shed and scattered over the +downcast head. They are drunk in, and by degrees the drooping cup is +raised to the friendly fern. And then, the straight young frond, itself +ever growing, waves aside in a natural, graceful sweep, and allows the +sunshine in all its strong radiance and reviving force to fall full on +the flower. And the half-closed bell joyously expanding, grows white and +strong and beautiful. + +And so the crystal pictures change and change, till Hazel's every +helpful act has been set forth. Then, as the last fades, and the arch of +storied light itself dissolves and melts, with one all-absorbing passion +of eternal devotion flooding her whole being, Hazel turns to Him who has +kept her beside Him throughout, her hand retained in His. For one moment +she beholds Him, the Unutterable One; and in His Sacred Face she reads, +amid ineffable love and infinite majesty, a look of gratitude. And once +more the Divine accents fall on her ear, saying-- + +"'Inasmuch as thou didst it unto one of these My brethren, even these +least, thou didst it unto Me.' + +"Let not those, the queens of the earth, to whom I have given the +priceless gifts of life and leisure, hold either lightly. Life, with its +sorrows and its joys, is but the education time fitting them to live for +ever with Me. The leisure I have bestowed may be used for Me, in doing +work in My garden--work which I have prepared for them to do, and which +I long to see done. Let them see to it that they waste not the +opportunity in fretful discontent and idleness--'And whosoever shall +give to drink unto one of these little ones, a cup of cold water only, +in the name of a disciple, verily I say unto you, she shall in no wise +lose her reward.'" + + * * * * * + +Hazel awoke. The moon was streaming in through the window. The grate was +filled with shining blocks of coal, and a few half-burnt matches. Aching +all over, and shivering with cold, she closed her eyes once more, and a +period of insensibility followed. + +Many days and nights of feverish illness ensued--days and nights in +which Hazel had much to suffer, and was only from time to time +conscious of the loving, unceasing care which watched over her. In those +intervals when her mind was not dazed and confused, she saw a face, old +and plain and wrinkled, which was to her as the face of an angel, for +Miss Bright tended and watched her with all the self-sacrifice of a +noble, true woman. + +At length, after a weary, weary time of pain, Hazel fell asleep once +more. Her dream came back to her, for she thought she was resting in the +warm sunshine on a bed of lilies in the same beautiful garden. And when +she opened her eyes she found her room was really bright and warm with a +fire and sunshine, and fresh and sweet with the fragrance of lilies of +the valley, a large bunch of them standing beside her, and more lying on +the white coverlid of her bed. Her eyes filled and her heart swelled +with gratitude. Softly she whispered, as though she spoke to someone +close beside her, "Dear Lord, I am so thankful to Thee for making me +better. I so longed to live a little while more to do some work for Thee +in Thy garden. I bless Thee so!" + +The door opened, and Brightie came in. The brave old woman broke down as +she clasped Hazel in her joy at the improvement in her. The two cried +together for a little while; there was so very much to be glad about +that the gladness was too great for self-control. + +A few days later, a girl with a white but radiantly happy face is +resting in a cane armchair, her feet supported by a footstool, in the +garden of a pretty country house at Fridorf. The sunshine is hot, but +she is shaded from it by a trellis work of young-leaved creepers +overhead. Lilacs and laburnum trees bloom abundantly around. The lawn +before her is smooth and green, and beyond is the sea. + +"How wonderful God's love is!" the girl says, presently, reaching out +her hand to an old woman with a peaceful face who shortly joins her, and +who clasps and retains the hand with an answering look more eloquent +than speech. + +THE END + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] Sesame and Lilies. By John Ruskin LL.D. 1. Of Kings' Treasuries. 2. +Of Queens' Gardens. + + + + +HINTS ON MODELLING IN CLAY. + +BY FRED MILLER. + + +Modelling in clay is a very agreeable change in one's artistic +occupation, for it is quite unlike other branches of art, and calls into +play a different set of faculties for its performance. It needs a +greater amount of "hand cunning" than does painting, and is in that +sense akin to wood carving, to which delightful craft it is, indeed, +almost indispensable, and, I might add, part of the necessary training +one has to undergo to become a carver in wood. And as on another +occasion I am going to write a few hints on wood carving, the present +article may be taken as a prelude to the one on that subject. + +The materials necessary to try one's hand at modelling are very +inexpensive. The clay is the most essential thing, and this can be +purchased at one or two artists' colourmen, or, better still, at any +pottery. I have had clay sent me from the potteries in Staffordshire, +and those of my readers who live near a pottery would have no difficulty +in supplying themselves with clay. The clay used for flower-pots does +for coarse work, but is not sufficiently carefully prepared for fine +work. It burns a rich red colour, and is, of course, terra-cotta. The +clay used in making the terra-cotta plaques and vases is what you +require for fine work. There are two or three firms who supply London +shops with terra-cotta vases, etc., and I have no doubt that clay might +be purchased of them. + +The clay used in making tiles does for modelling, but perhaps the best +is that which burns a cream colour. It is a dull grey colour, rather +dark before it is fired, and it should be noticed that it is difficult +to tell the colour clay will burn by its appearance when unbaked. Thus a +grey clay may burn a rich red or pale cream. The qualities necessary in +clay for modelling are plasticity, which enables it to be worked without +falling to pieces, and fineness--a perfect freedom from grit, small +stones, and other impurities. It should be quite soft to the touch, and +when pressed and kneaded should feel smooth and silky. Old clay is more +plastic as well as being tougher than new, and in potteries clay is +often kept a considerable time before it is used. The clay should not be +allowed to dry when it is not in use, and to prevent this it must be +wrapped in wet flannel. Should it dry quite hard, there is nothing to do +but to put it into a vessel and pour water on it, allowing it to stand +until the clay becomes soft. Some of the moisture must then be allowed +to evaporate, otherwise it is too soft for use. This is another point to +be observed in clay used for modelling. It must not be too damp. If it +sticks to the fingers it is too wet, and if it resists the pressure of +the fingers, too dry. The state between stickiness and stubbornness is +what is wanted. + +Now as to the tools. Wooden modelling tools can be purchased at some +artists' colourmen, and also at some tool shops. You must choose those +tools you think look handiest. A little practice will soon show you +which are the best to have. + +Each modeller has a predilection for certain tools, and it will take my +readers very little time to find out which tools give the best results. +I often shape those I buy myself to fit them for particular work. In +addition to these wooden tools, it is necessary to have a fine steel one +to work the clay when it is dry. Modelling tools are very inexpensive. +You really require no other tools but these wooden ones and a steel one, +but it is necessary to have a few boards to work your clay upon. They +should be strong, with battens at the back to prevent them warping, +which they are liable to do owing to the dampness of the clay. + +We will start our work with a very simple design, for our aim should be +to overcome the difficulties by degrees. The design I have chosen (fig. +1) was modelled as a tile about eight inches square, and the first thing +to be done is to roll out a piece of clay about half an inch thick, and +fairly flat all over. It is as well to work the clay up in one's hands, +damping it occasionally if too dry. If clay be allowed to remain +untouched for any length of time it gets set, and does not work easily; +therefore, thoroughly work it up with the hands. It may be made into a +ball, and can be rolled out flat with a thick ruler or rolling pin. The +clay has a tendency to curl up round the rolling pin, and care must be +taken to prevent this. If the rolling pin be covered with leather, this +is to a great extent prevented. The design can be made on tracing paper, +and by marking over the tracing paper placed over the clay with a hard +point, an impression sufficiently distinct will be left to guide one in +doing the actual modelling. The first thing is to build up the oranges, +which can be done by sticking little pellets of clay on to the slab, +pressing them down with the fingers, and rounding the oranges roughly +into shape. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.--A TILE. + +_Our First Experiment._] + +Don't be too particular about this part of the work; be content to get +some approximation to the shape, leaving the finishing to be done with +the tools. Build up the stem in like manner, or you might roll out a +thin piece of clay and stick this on to the slab. In sticking clay on to +clay, it is always advisable to wet both the clay and the slab to +ensure thorough adhesion, and in working the design into shape it is +even a good plan to dip the fingers into water, as the extra moisture +makes it easier to press the clay into the requisite shape. + +The leaves can be modelled separately, and stuck on to the clay slab one +by one. Do as much of the work as you can with the fingers. In +modelling, the fingers are the best tools, after all. They do their work +so much more expeditiously and effectively than the so-called "tools" +do, and, depend upon it, the more the preliminary work is done with the +fingers the better, as the use of the fingers tends towards boldness of +design and vigour of execution. People, in starting a new employment, +are very apt to be finiking owing to timidity, and this must be overcome +from the outset--this tendency to pettiness--and in the case of +modelling, the best way to overcome it is to do all the preliminary work +with the fingers. Build up the design boldly and freely, studying only +the principal masses and most important forms. When this is +accomplished, let the clay stand a little time uncovered, as the use of +water will have made it very sticky, and the modelling tools cannot be +used as efficiently when the clay is in this state as when it is drier. + +The modelling tools will enable you to begin to finish up the design, +for at present the design exists only in its rough state. Pick the clay +out of the interstices of the design, and begin to refine the different +forms by putting in the more delicate curves. It very much depends upon +the nature of the design as to how far in the direction of finish you +carry the work, but as your modelled tile will not be exposed to rough +usage, you may under-cut it, as modellers say. Under-cutting is the +taking of the clay away from the back of the various forms. In the +leaves, for instance, instead of leaving a solid mass of clay at the +back, this should be carefully cut away underneath, or under-cut, so as +to give lightness and delicacy to the work. Of course, it is necessary +to leave some clay here and there to attach the various forms to the +slab. The under-cutting may be carried to such a pitch as to make the +design look weak, and as though it would fall to pieces with a puff of +wind. When this is the case, I reckon the finishing has been carried too +far. Clay should always look strong enough to hold together, and I may +say I never thought much of that fancy china one sees which is covered +with flowers and foliage modelled as delicately as though wrought in +some precious metal. Sooner or later the edges get chipped off, and the +charm of such work is immediately gone. Of course we know that an +accident may destroy work that is not wrought in this delicate manner, +but modelled clay should be delicate without being weak--it should at +least look as though it could hold its own with fair usage. + +Get as much of the work done as possible while the clay is plastic, and +with a little practice a modelled design can be finished entirely while +the clay is damp. In fact, the work is better when wrought from the +plastic clay than when finished up with steel tools after the clay is +dry. There is a certain crispness about the modelling when wrought from +plastic clay, which is often wanting in work tooled up when the clay is +hard. To my thinking, the best work is always that which looks as though +it had been thrown off in a happy moment, and which has a certain number +of the tool marks showing, as though the worker were not ashamed to let +his craftsmanship be seen. Work which has been touch and retouched, and +rubbed down and smoothed until all life, vigour, and crispness have +departed from it, looks what it is, amateurish (in the worse sense) and +weak. + +I have had many opportunities of seeing amateurs work during the years I +have been teaching, and I have noticed that they have a mistaken notion +of what finish really is. It certainly does not consist in smoothing the +work until it has the texture of a wax doll, and I have often noticed +that work is often wholly spoilt in the so-called finishing. + +In the subject I am dealing with--modelling in clay--this is +particularly the case, and, reader, I pray you avoid it. I would sooner +you leave the work rough, with all the marks of the tools showing, so +that you get vigour and crispness in your work, than that you should in +your endeavour to efface the marks of the tools make your work tame and +effeminate. + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.--A PLAQUE.] + +In working up the leaves, don't attempt to put many veins in them. +Hardly do more than indicate the centre vein. Nothing looks worse than +to see the various forms covered with a network of minute markings. You +will find, if you try and put in the veins in your modelled tile, your +leaves will not look as though they were veined, but as though some +stiff-legged insect had crawled over the damp clay, and had left its +trail behind it. In putting in the stamens in flowers, you will have to +have recourse to an expedient, for it is evident that you cannot copy +every individual stamen in clay any more than you can make your clay +petals as thin and delicate as nature. You must translate the effect of +nature into clay, and in the case of the stamens you will find it a good +plan to build up the centre of the flower, and then press into it a +pointed stick, repeating the operation until the whole of the centre is +perforated, as it were, like a grater. + +In order to make a contrast between the design and the background, you +can dot or line over the slab upon which the design is lying, so as to +make the surface rough in texture. When the clay is quite dry, which +will take some week or more to effect, you can put any further work +into the design with the steel tool, which must be used to scrape the +clay; for if you exert any pressure upon the dry clay it very soon +chips, and it is almost impossible to repair such damage, and for this +reason: that if you stick on a piece of wet clay to the dry clay, the +moisture of the wet clay is soon absorbed by the dry, and the piece +stuck on immediately falls off. The only chance is to keep damping the +part damaged until the clay all round gets quite moist again, and you +must then model another piece on to the broken part. Dry your work very +slowly at first, to prevent it cracking or warping, and when it seems +quite hard put it into a warmer place, for, though clay may appear hard +on the surface, there is sure to be a good deal of moisture inside, +especially if the clay be thick, and should it be put into a kiln before +the moisture is entirely evaporated, the modelled clay will fly into +minute fragments, and cause incalculable damage to other work in the +kiln. I recommend my readers to put their work into a hot oven two or +three times after it has been drying for two or three weeks, so as to +insure the clay being quite hard. I lost several works through firing +them before they were dry enough.[2] + +The heat that china is put to fix the colours is not sufficient for +baking clay, and it must be sent to some place where underglaze pottery +is fired. This first firing turns the clay into "biscuit," and if any +painting is to be done on it, now is the time to do it. Underglaze or +Barbotine colours should be used, and they should be put on in thin +washes. The whole work must then be glazed and fired. But I shall not +touch further on this part of the subject here, for I must say something +about modelled decoration applied to vases and plaques. + +The plaque or vase to receive modelled decoration must be of the same +degree of dampness, or nearly the same degree of dampness, as the clay +used in modelling, for reasons already stated. You cannot put modelled +decoration on to clay that is dry, or ware that has been fired. To make +a plaque, it is almost necessary to have a plaster mould. You might make +this for yourself by buying a china plaque the shape and size you +require, and filling this plaque with plaster-of-Paris, being careful to +let the plaster come to edge of plaque all round. When the plaster is +dry, trim the edge round, and take it out of plaque. You must now roll +out a flat sheet of clay sufficiently large to cover this plaster mould, +and, by pressing the clay evenly all over the mould, and trimming round +the edges with a knife, you will get a clay plaque sufficiently good to +answer your purpose. Don't attempt to remove the clay immediately from +the plaster, but let it remain on a few hours, to enable the clay to +set. The surface of this plaque may be kept moist by keeping a damp +flannel over it. When the modelling has been started, the damp cloth +must not press upon the modelled portions, but be supported on a wicker +frame. + +It is always better to model direct from nature--and for this reason. By +taking a leaf and pressing it into a piece of clay, and marking it round +with a darning-needle, you get the exact shape of the leaf, and by +pulling off the leaf you can bend the clay impression into any form you +like, and put it upon your clay plaque or vase, pressing it into the +curve you wish it to take. A little very wet clay should be put on back +of leaf, to ensure it sticking to plaque. I have taken as my +illustration (fig. 2) the garden poppy, and if I were modelling it +direct from nature, I should first of all roll out a strip of clay for +the stem, and put this on the plaque so that it makes a graceful curve. +Strip off the leaves one by one, and take impressions in clay, and then +fasten them to plaque, following the natural growth, and yet arranging +them so that the leaves fall into their places agreeably. The back +leaves, instead of being modelled, might be just marked in outline on +the plaque itself. This will give depth to the design. The leaves should +not be put on the plaque flatly, but should be bent and twisted as is +necessary to suggest the growth of nature. The flower will present the +greatest difficulty, as the serrated edges of the petals must be +carefully done. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.--A VASE.] + +In the case of flowers like chrysanthemums, it is necessary to build up +the most prominent flower solidly in clay, putting on the outer petals +separately. The back flower can have the near petals modelled, while the +distant ones can be just indicated on plaque with incised lines. Don't +attempt to copy every petal in clay, which is an impossibility, but try +and get the general effect of the flower in your modelling. Take the +prominent petals first, and put them on in their proper positions, and +the less important petals can then be filled in in the intervening +spaces. This is the plan to adopt in all intricate work. Put down your +principal forms first of all, and you will have little difficulty in +getting in the less important ones, for the principal forms act as +measuring points to the rest of the work, and enable you to preserve +that proportion between the various parts of the design which is +essential in all good designs. It is necessary in modelling to simplify +nature somewhat, for we cannot imitate nature in clay. What we have to +do is to seize upon the principal points, the curves of the stems, the +position, form, and characteristics of the flowers and leaves, and put +them down intelligently and in as telling a manner as possible. Let the +work dry carefully before having it fired, and you can either finish it +up in colours, and have it glazed, or let it remain as it is. I often +used to use my Barbotine colours (see articles on "Barbotine Painting," +in Nos. 440 and 584, vol. iv., of the G.O.P.) for colouring modelled +work and glazed it with my soft glaze. I have also sent some work to the +potteries, and had a coloured glaze put over the whole work. I may here +say that much may be learnt by studying good modelled work, and even +copying some stone or wood carving in clay. The pottery of Della Robbia +and Palissy should be studied whenever the student has the opportunity +of so doing. + +I need not say much as to modelled work or vases. You must have some +shapes sent up from the potteries in the "green" state, for it is almost +impossible for amateurs to "throw" their own vases on a wheel. Space +forbids me to describe the potter's wheel, but visitors to the Health +Exhibition two years ago had the opportunity of seeing a potter at work, +which is much better than reading about one. Those adventurous spirits +who wish to try "throwing" vases, should get a small wheel from the +potteries (it will cost, including carriage, about L8), and have a few +lessons from a practical potter. In the meantime, get some firm to +procure for you a few unbaked vases, and when you receive them it will +be necessary to wrap them up in damp flannel for a day or two, so that +the modelled work will stick on the vase. Let the shape of the vases be +very plain and simple, with a good broad surface to receive the modelled +decoration. I have chosen as the illustration (fig. 3) the blackberry, +as it is a very ornamental plant and one familiar to all readers. Throw +on your stalk first of all, letting it wrap round the vase, and so place +it that the leaves, flowers, and fruit can spring from it so as to be +seen to the best advantage. The stalks might be placed in such a way as +to form handles. Get a certain quaintness into the modelling, and don't +be too intent upon imitating nature, for, do what you will, you will +find it impossible to accomplish this. Therefore, be content to decorate +your vase with a graceful spray of bramble, with all essential +characteristics of the plant indicated, and the general "swing" of the +plant expressed in your work. Model each part separately, either by +pressing the leaves into clay and marking them round, or by modelling +pure and simple, and then fasten the various parts on to the vase with +diluted clay. Don't let any part of the work stand out too prominently; +for not only will the shape of the vase be destroyed, but there is +always much more liability to damage if the design be very prominent +than when it just lies, as it were, closely to the surface of the vase. +And yet it is not necessary to put everything perfectly flat on the +vase. The stems, for instance, can be raised in places, so that there is +a space between the stem and vase; and so with leaves, flowers, and +other details. + +It will be seen that I make the stems form an ornamental rim round the +vase and also round the neck. Dry the vase very slowly, and in sending +it to be fired, wrap plenty of cotton wool around it so that no pressure +can be exerted upon any portion of the modelling. This applies with +equal force to all modelled work. Red terra-cotta vases decorated with +modelling, and merely baked, are most effective. Terra-cotta vases +should not be too small; the larger they are the more effective is +appearance in a room. I have some more than two feet high, and when +filled with dried rushes, etc., they fill up a corner charmingly. + +As a general rule let your modelled work be drawn to a natural size, and +let it be rather over than under the natural size, for if modelled work +is smaller than nature, the effect is apt to be petty and insignificant. +Birds and insects can often be introduced with advantage. + +I have recently been modelling some large works, using clay employed in +making drain tiles, and having them fired in an ordinary brick kiln. In +fact, I started some of my work with large size drain tiles, which I +obtained when they were quite wet, and by pulling up the top and +spreading it out a little, and putting a slab of clay on the bottom, I +obtained cylindrical vases, upon which I modelled some decoration; but +as the subject is one of peculiar interest, and is somewhat new to my +readers, I must just reserve a few remarks upon this subject for another +occasion, when I will give sketches of some of the vases I have recently +been modelling. This work is within the reach of everyone, especially my +country readers, for there are few villages of any size that have not a +brick kiln in their vicinity, and for large work, such as ornamental +flower-pots, vases for holding bulrushes, and garden vases, this is most +admirably adapted. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[2] As will be seen, the tile design, fig. 1, is what is termed a "bas +relief," _i.e._, the forms in many cases are only just relieved from the +ground, and only here and there are any of the forms in entire relief. + +[Illustration] + + + + +LOVE ON, LOVE EVER. + +BY RUTH LAMB. + +"Love not, love not, ye hapless sons of earth." + + + How world-worn must have been the weary heart + When this sad strain belied its noblest part! + What! Bid us cease to love! Why life were pain + If this best attribute were given in vain. + + Cease not to love. O, wherefore shouldst thou scorn + The flowers thy path beside, to cull the thorn? + Or heed the man who, all unblest with sight, + Counsels his fellow-man to shun the light? + + Gazing around, 'tis ever hard to trace + The Maker's image in the Creature's face. + Seek it not there. That image wouldst thou prove, + Know the Divine gleams through our works of love. + + If cruel Death a dear one rend away, + Let thy love follow; do not with the clay + Bury thy heart. Soar higher. Wherefore bow? + Yesterday's mortal is immortal now. + + If thy life's labour meet with scant return, + Thou who hast wrought it should'st be last to mourn. + Nay more, rejoice. Each unpaid debt of love + Is so much treasure garnered up above. + + Let cold ingratitude bring no dismay, + But rather aid thee on thy heavenward way. + Work on, love on, aye to increase the debt; + Thy God is not unrighteous to forget. + + + + +DRESS: IN SEASON AND IN REASON. + +BY A LADY DRESSMAKER. + + +The extreme warmth of September has naturally postponed ideas of winter, +and our preparations are generally very backward. In fact, at the end of +September many people would have said that they knew nothing whatever +about new things, and that they did not want them either, and the secret +of this indifference would have been attributable to the weather. It is +to be hoped that we shall have a seasonable winter, less cold and +disagreeable than the last. + +During my visit to Paris I found but little to chronicle in the way of +winter novelties. The chief changes seemed to be in materials and their +designs. Checks are in high favour, and it is said they will supersede +stripes; and last year, when I was there at this season, they said much +the same thing, but this year they seemed more determined to vote +stripes old-fashioned. To tell the truth, I think the Parisians, and the +women in France generally, are great admirers of plaids, and do not find +stripes becoming, simply because they are usually very short and stout. +Englishwomen, who are tall and stout, like them because they decrease +their apparent size, and give an effect of length while decreasing +breadth. On tall people plaids have a bad effect. + +[Illustration: AUTUMN CLOAKS, ULSTERS, AND GOWNS.] + +Rough-faced materials constitute the majority of those prepared, and +plain stuffs are still united with plaided and striped ones in the same +dress; but this is not an absolute rule this year, for some dresses are +entirely of either plaids or stripes, or else are of plain material +only. Many of the materials are plain, with a bordering at one edge of +plaid. For instance, a grey of rough-faced stuff had a bordering of a +large check in lines of a paler grey, a little relief being given by +pale lines of a clear Naples-yellow. The effect was quiet and subdued by +the roughness of the surface of the cloth. With this gown the underskirt +was made of the plaid material, quite plain, and the overskirt of the +bordered part was draped above it in simple straight long folds, the +plaid part being at the lower edge of the overskirt. The bodice was of +the plain, and it had a plastron, or waistcoat front, of the plaid. The +buttons (as are many in use this year) are of smoked pearl, and are very +small for the fronts of gowns and larger for the jacket-bodices. +Bretelles of velvet are used as trimmings to the bodices of these rough +woollens, and the collars and cuffs are almost invariably of the same +material, which seems likely to retain its popularity through the +winter. The velvet collars are both useful and becoming, and, in +addition, they save white trimmings at the neck. We rather rejoice in +our emancipation from that bondage, and I hear many people say they will +never resume it again, now they have once found that they can look well +without the once inevitable white collar or frill. The tendency in every +woman's mind who is possessed of ordinary good sense is to simplify +everything connected with clothes, and I feel sure we shall all be +healthier and happier when we have banished many things from our +wardrobes which we now think absolutely needful. + +"Dr. Jaeger's sanitary woollen clothing," about which I have so often +written in praise, has raised up some rival manufactures amongst our +English makers, who have long been famous for their merino or lambswool +stuffs. Pure woollen under-garments in England have always been thought +to wear and to wash badly, and much of this has probably been owing to +the fact that the washing was very bad and that no one before Dr. Jaeger +ever tried washing woollens scientifically, so as to take out the grease +and perspiration, and not to harden the material at the same time. By +Jaeger's method this is done with lump ammonia and soap. The soap is cut +into small pieces and boiled into a lather with water, and the lump +ammonia is then added. This lather is used at about 100 deg. Fahrenheit, and +the clothes must not be rubbed, but allowed to soak for about an hour in +the water, and must then be drawn backwards and forwards repeatedly in +the bath till clean. Three waters are to be used, the two after the +first lather being of the same heat, and of pure clean water. This +leaves the clothes delightfully soft and supple, and their wearing +qualities suggest nothing further as an improvement. + +Some of the new English underclothing is very light and good, and claims +to be of pure merino-wool. It is of varying thickness, and many ladies, +both young and old, are adopting it for combinations; these and one +petticoat forming the whole of the clothing. Of course, the thickness of +these garments is to be suited to the season, and the gossamer clothing +manufactured for the warm season leaves nothing to be desired in its +lightness and apparent coolness. + +[Illustration: BY THE LAKE SIDE WITH THE BOATS.] + +One does not associate thick materials with great heat, and the mere +look of thick wool would make one begin to feel hot, however foolish +it may sound to say so. When the skin becomes used to wearing wool it +will be found more comfortable than either cotton or linen, and we, +moreover, avoid the chance of chills after being over-heated. I know +several people who date their almost perfect immunity from colds to the +use of woollen underclothing, who previously had been martyrs to colds +and coughs, and had been constantly imprisoned in the house during quite +mild seasons. In England the climate (need I say so?) is fickle and +changeable, and, singular to say, we may be, and many people are, +apparently wrapped up carefully and seasonably, and yet we may all err +on every hygienic point, in regard to the weight and porosity of +materials. + +So far as I can see in the newest styles, the loose-fronted bodices have +it all their own way. Many of them only fasten at the throat and waist, +either large buttons or handsome clasps being used. These jackets +stretch open over the front to show a full waistcoat, this latter being +a scarf long enough to continue below the waist and round it at either +side, so as to form a sort of sash, showing under the edge of the bodice +and ending under the long coat-tails at the back in ends or a bow. + +The newest bonnets are still high in the front, or, if not high +themselves, the trimmings are high. The horseshoe crowns which were +introduced in the summer bid fair to become extremely popular, and the +stringless bonnet will be in vogue as long as possible, and I have no +doubt many people will wear it through the winter, too. Beaver bonnets +are announced to take the place of kid or felt, and I have seen some +black beaver crowns with open-work jet fronts, which appeared +incongruous. + +Leaves of all bright hues, the bramble and its berries, the blackberry, +and the virginian-creeper, are likely to be in great favour for +trimmings this autumn. These will be used even upon velvet and beaver +bonnets. + +There is a very strong feeling in many quarters in favour of restoring +the "princess" cut of dress to favour. In a letter from a lady, it is +very wisely said, in writing to a contemporary, "For active exercise, a +dress ought to be cut all in one--'princess,' as the milliners call +it--and so arranged in the skirt that there is no drapery which will +catch in things, come unstitched, and look untidy; everything wants to +be taut and trim, like tailor's work. But even the ladies' tailors will +insist upon making a skirt and little jacket-bodice, instead of a dress +in one piece. It is almost impossible to use the arms freely--to go out +in a sailing-boat, for instance, and help in its management--or, in +fact, to raise the arms high, without causing a hiatus between the two +parts of the garment at the sides of the waist. I have noticed this +happen so often, even with smart tailor-made gowns, the wearer being +generally blissfully unconscious of the accident, that I feel bound to +draw attention to it. + +"It was curious to note the awful revelations made recently by a storm +of wind on an elevated promenade by the sea. Every steel stood out in +bold relief even under the most _bouffante_ drapery. Upper-skirts broke +away from the under, and displayed the sorry fact that the latter were +only shams, formed of lining-calico, with patches of good material put +in here and there, where the over-garment was cut open. One neat +tailor-gown revealed the cotton back to the pretty waistcoat, a pretence +which is carried out in every suit of clothes made for men, but which +seemed an aggravated offence to art in a well-dressed woman. It was +comforting to turn from such sartorial mistakes to a group of young +girls sensibly clad in simple gowns, guiltless of pretence, of steels, +or _tournures_. Gathered bodices and full plain skirts, confined by +broad sashes, combined the elements of grace and utility, and exhibited +no foolish attempt to distort and pervert nature." + +I have given the full extract, as it contains much matter for thought +for my readers, both young and middle-aged. I suppose everyone read with +interest the celebration of the centenary of M. Chevreul, the great +French chemist, who has been for years a great student of colour, and to +whom we owe many alterations, inventions, and suggestions in dyes and +colours. Trade has been assisted and developed by his researches, and +the subject of colour harmonies has been placed by him in the position +and basis of a science. When we admire the loveliness of our coloured +materials, and notice the wonderful improvements of late years, we women +may thank the industry and talent of M. Chevreul. I put in a long +quotation from him some months ago, and it may interest some of my +readers to hear that M. Chevreul has attained his hundredth year as a +total abstainer, but drank his own health in a glass of champagne, +tasted for the first time! + +[Illustration: A LADY'S PYJAMA.] + +From a recently-published book I gather the following ideas, and as they +coincide with what I am always impressing on my readers with reference +to tight dresses and stays, I quote them gladly, as showing that there +are other sensible women in the world, a class which I hope will every +day increase:--"If you lace tightly, nothing can save you from acquiring +high shoulders, abnormally large hips, varicose veins in your legs, and +a red nose. Surely such penalties, to say nothing of heart disease, +spinal curvature, and worse, are sufficiently dreadful to deter either +maids or matrons from unduly compressing their waists? No adult woman's +waist ought to measure less in circumference than twenty-four inches at +the smallest, and even this is permissible to slender figures only. The +rule of beauty is that the waist should be twice the size of the throat. +Therefore, if the throat measure twelve and a half inches, round the +waist should measure twenty-five. The celebrated statue know as the +'Venus de Medici,' the acknowledged type of beauty and grace, has a +waist of twenty-seven inches, the height of the figure being only five +feet two inches." + +And, while on this subject, I must mention that some new stays, made of +elastic material, have recently been advertised, which I should imagine +were comfortable. Dr. Jaeger also has an elastic knitted bodice on his +list, which is in reality a description of stays, and would afford +sufficient support to a slight figure. + +The illustrations to our dress instructions of this month show the +prevailing characteristics of the gowns of the month, and also +demonstrate how little change there is in them. As the majority of the +community is still moving about at this season, most of the dress +thought about and worn is suitable for travelling, as well as autumn. +Now that we no longer think it needful to put on all our old clothes and +to make our appearance grotesque, as was formerly the case, we very +frequently follow the French and American plan, and have a special dress +made for the tour we are about to undertake, which will do for day wear, +as well as for journeying while we are away; then, furnished with a +second nice black silk or satin for very best occasions, we are +sufficiently well clad for every purpose. A dust cloak, travelling +cloak, and short jacket are added, and some wise people take their fur +capes; in fact, for short expeditions of a month or six weeks we do not +like large trunks nor encumbrances, so we curtail all our wants, and are +so much the happier, having less anxiety and worry. In addition to all +this, we save our shillings in fees, and charges for over-weight, very +considerably, and, when we are rid of the heavy trunks, last, not least, +we break no backs. + +While I am on this topic, I must mention that the late Exhibition (the +Healtheries) was of great assistance to travellers in showing how much +can be done to decrease weight and bulk in every way, and setting wits +to work to improve in all directions. Thus we have wonderfully improved +waterproofed cloaks, hygienic boots and shoes; and the improvement in +trunks and bags is immense, in addition to their moderation in price. + +The greatest unanimity prevails with regard to the small jackets, which +seem patronised by young girls, as well as married women of every age. +They are generally loose-fronted, but tight-fitting at the back, the +fronts being lined with coloured silk. Many of them are braided, some +gold braid being used, and many have a flat braided plastron in the +front to button over and give a double-breasted effect. Serge in all +hues seems very much liked, but the most popular are dark navy-blue and +cream-white. Short cloaks, with sling-sleeves and hoods, are very much +worn, also short mantelettes, like our paper-pattern for last month. +These may be made in the material of the dress. + +This autumn I must again mention the numbers of slightly full bodices of +the "Garibaldi" and "Norfolk jacket" class that this season has brought +out, to be worn with skirts of different materials. The different +ladies' tailors of renown have taken up this idea, and it is probable +that we shall see them greatly worn during the winter season. Some of +these have a yoke, and some have a straight band on the shoulders, into +which they are fulled. They are made in flannel, linen, and twilled +silk, in all colours, striped, spotted, and plain, and with them the +becoming fashion of the full basque has come in. Yoked bodices will be a +decided winter style. + +With these bodices there is generally a turned-down collar and long +cuffs of velvet, and the belt should be also of velvet. In other cases +the belt matches the full bodice, and is of moire or Petersham ribbon. + +The fancy for stripes as well as plaids is shown by the dresses in the +illustration of the autumn fashions. The figure standing in the centre +of our boating picture at the English lakes, shows a blue flannel or +serge, made up with a striped material. The vest and revers show the +stripe as well as the underskirt. The back of this dress is shown by +one of the distant figures. The other wears one of the new blouse +bodices, which will be the style of the winter. In the larger of our +illustrations is shown the general tendency of the day. The cloaks and +ulsters are of plaid, and there is but little change in the shapes. The +girl in the sailor's hat shows one of the full white under-vests, the +jacket being almost of a Breton style. The edge is braided, and so is +one panel at the side of the skirt. The two bonnets, one in each +picture, show one with strings and one without. They are not quite so +high, and both have the horseshoe crown, which, as the last summer +novelty, bids fair to be adopted for the autumn and winter. + +The pattern for this month will, I hope, be a surprise, as well as a +great comfort, to those of my readers who select it, and who wish to +attain to the greatest amount of comfort and hygienic advantages in +their underclothing. The pattern in question is a combination nightgown, +or lady's "pyjama," and is a novelty which will be found of much value +and comfort. It consists of five pieces--front, back, lower back, and +two sleeve pieces. The method of putting together is carefully indicated +by marks in the pattern, and no difficulty will be experienced in the +making-up. The amount of material required will be from 41/2 to 5 yards, +and calico, flannel, or swansdown, or the new cotton flannel, may, any +of them, be used to make it. For the winter season it will be found to +supply a great increase in warmth, and, to the invalid, a great comfort, +as it fits closely, will not form creases, nor "ruck up," as the +ordinary nightgown always does, to the discomfort of the wearer. + +Each of the patterns may be had of "The Lady Dressmaker," care of Mr. H. +G. Davis, 73, Ludgate-hill, E.C., price 1s. each. It is requested that +the addresses be clearly given, and that postal notes, crossed so as to +be eligible only to go through a bank, may be sent, as so many losses +have occurred through the sending of postage stamps. The patterns +already issued can always be obtained, as "The Lady Dressmaker" shows +constantly in her articles how they can be made use of. + +The following is a list of those already issued:--April, braided +loose-fronted jacket; May, velvet bodice; June, Swiss belt and full +bodice, with plain sleeves; July, mantle; August, Norfolk or pleated +jacket; September, housemaid's or plain skirt; October, combination +garment (underlinen); November, double-breasted out-of-door jacket; +December, zouave jacket and bodice; January, princess under-dress +(under-linen, under-bodice, and skirt combined); February, polonaise +with waterfall back; March, new spring bodice; April, divided skirt and +Bernhardt mantle with sling sleeves; May, Early English bodice and yoke +bodice for summer dress; June, dressing jacket, princess frock, and +Normandy peasant's cap, for a child of four years; July, Princess of +Wales' jacket-bodice and waistcoat for tailor-made gown; August, bodice +with guimpe; September, mantle with stole ends and hood. October, +"pyjama" or nightdress combination with full back. + + + + +THE SHEPHERD'S FAIRY. + +A PASTORALE. + +BY DARLEY DALE, Author of "Fair Katherine," etc. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Meanwhile, Mrs. Shelley had washed and dressed her own three boys, and +had introduced the little stranger to the two elder, Charlie, the baby, +being already on intimate terms with his foster sister, for whose sake +he had to submit to much less attention than had hitherto fallen to his +share, for which reason he was unusually cross this morning. Willie, the +second boy, the living image of his father, was barely three years old, +and too young to pay much attention to the baby, or to understand that +it had arrived in an unusual way; but Jack, the eldest boy, quite took +it in, and stood lost in admiration of the wonderful baby with its +beautiful clothes, so unlike Charlie's, and the lovely coral and bells, +as his mother showed them all to him. Jack was five years old, a tall, +strong child for his age, and very like his mother in face; he had her +quick temper, too, though Mrs. Shelley had hers pretty well under +control, while little Jack often got into trouble by giving way to his. +Nothing ever escaped Jack's notice; he was always all ears and eyes, and +he took in every detail of the strange baby's belongings as +intelligently as his mother could have done, and, to her joy, for she +was by no means sure what kind of a welcome Jack, who resented the +arrival of little Charlie, saying, "Mother didn't want anyone else to +love her when she had him," would give to the strange baby, he was +enchanted with it, and was as anxious as Mrs. Shelley herself to keep +it. + +"It is the fairies' baby; they brought it, didn't they, mother? We will +always, always keep it, won't we?" + +"I don't quite know yet, Jack; father says perhaps we shall have to send +it away," said Mrs. Shelley. + +"It shan't go away. How dare father say so? He is a wicked man to want +to send it away," cried the boy, with flashing eyes and crimson cheeks. + +"Jack, I am ashamed of you; you must not speak of your father in that +way; if he says it is to go away it must go, whether we like it or no." + +Jack hung his head and hid his face on his mother's shoulder, while she, +remembering how indignant she had been with the shepherd for hinting at +sending it away the night before, stooped and kissed her boy's curly +head, and Jack raised his head again and renewed his attentions to the +baby. + +"What a pretty little thing it is; see how it holds my finger. I think +it will love me, mother, though it is not my real sister. Oh! do make +father keep it, will you?" + +For the first time since Mrs. Shelley had had the baby, she now +hesitated about keeping it; the boy had unconsciously struck a wrong +chord, and his mother, with a prophetic instinct, coupled with a quick +imagination, for a moment saw that it was possible this little stranger +who, as Jack had already grasped, was not his real sister, might, in +future years, destroy the harmony and peace of the home circle. But it +was only a momentary hesitation; the thought flashed across her mind and +vanished again, almost as quickly as it had come. Could she have known +how true that prophetic instinct was, would she not have gone counter to +all her own inclinations, and disregarded all Jack's wishes and prayers, +rather than have run the risk of introducing strife into her peaceful +household? As it was, the motherly pity she felt for the baby was +stronger at the moment than the foreboding light which had flashed +across the distant future, and she answered hurriedly-- + +"I must go and see Mr. Leslie first, dear, and hear what he says; do you +think you could take care of Charlie while I am gone with the baby? I +shall take Willie with me, or he will be getting into mischief." + +Jack, proud to be of use to his mother, professed his ability to look +after Charlie, privately regretting it was not the beautiful strange +fairies' baby which was to be left under his charge. + +"Jack, I can't be back before the clock has struck twelve; it is now +half-past ten, so it will strike twice before I come back, do you +understand; and both the hands will have to be on the twelve at the top, +do you see? So now, if it seems a long time, do not be frightened, I +shall be back soon after twelve. If baby cries, rock the cradle, but +don't try to take him out; if he sleeps you may wash the potatoes for +dinner. Now, good-bye," and Mrs. Shelley, with the infant in her arms +and Willie running by her side, set off to the Rectory, while Jack stood +at the door watching her out of sight. + +The first half-hour passed quickly enough. The baby slept, and Jack +washed the potatoes, and was delighted when the clock struck eleven. But +the next hour was interminably long, and little Jack got very tired of +rocking Charlie, who was awake now, and would scream every time his +brother stopped rocking. Every few minutes Jack ran to the door to see +if his mother was coming, and then ran back and rocked violently at the +cradle. At last he thought he heard footsteps, and, running to look, +saw, not his mother, but Dame Hursey, making her way towards the house. + +Now, Jack did not care about Dame Hursey's visits even when his mother +was at home. He was half afraid of the witch-like old woman, and to have +a visit from her while he was alone was the last thing he desired, so he +came in quickly and banged the door, hoping she would think they were +all out and go away, if only he could keep Charlie quiet. But Dame +Hursey had seen and heard the door shut, and so, after knocking two or +three times without any result, she quietly lifted the latch and walked +in, while Jack, who was kneeling by the cradle, looked up, half +defiantly, half frightened. + +"Mother is out; there is no one at home but me," said Jack, sharply. + +"Oh, is she? Well, I'll sit and rest a bit till she comes in. Who have +you got there in that cradle?" + +"Charlie, my new brother," said Jack. + +"And where is the fairies' baby? Ah! you see, I know all about it. I +know everything; there is no keeping secrets from me. That is the shawl +it was brought in, isn't it, now?" said Dame Hursey, rising and +examining minutely the Indian shawl in which the baron had wrapped his +daughter, and which was lying on a chair. + +Jack, more convinced than ever that Dame Hursey was a witch, thought +perhaps she might be able to tell him where the fairies had brought the +baby from if he were civil to her, so he answered all her questions and +described minutely all the baby's belongings. + +"Ah! well, it is the Pharisees you have to thank for bringing her here. +Mind you all take care of her, and one of these fine days she'll turn +into a beautiful princess and make you all very rich; but if you talk +much about her the fairies will be angry and take her away. You tell +your mother I said so; I can't wait any longer." + +And Dame Hursey, who had been prying about the kitchen to see if she +could find any other belongings of this mysterious baby, took her +departure, much to Jack's joy. + +Shortly after she left Mrs. Shelley came home, and Jack was so full of +Dame Hursey's visit and her account of the fairies' child that he forgot +to ask the result of his mother's interview with the rector, while Mrs. +Shelley, on the other hand, was not at all pleased to find Dame Hursey +had been prying about her cottage in her absence, and congratulated +herself on not having left any of the baby's little garments about, for +she might never have found them again if she had. + +The next day the rector called and had a long talk with the shepherd and +his wife about the baby, though he could throw but little light upon it, +except, of course, to utterly discredit the ridiculous notion that the +fairies had brought it. That it belonged to rich people was clear from +its clothes; and to foreigners, from the coronet, which was certainly +not English. More the rector could not say, except that its parents +evidently wanted to get rid of it, and had connived at placing it on the +shepherd's doorstep. + +As to keeping it, that was a point entirely for the shepherd and his +wife to decide. If they chose to send it to the workhouse, no one could +blame them for doing so. He doubted exceedingly anyone ever claiming it, +but he advised Mrs. Shelley to lock up all its clothes and things in +case of their being needed for identification at any future period. He +also counselled them, if they thought of keeping the child, to weigh the +matter well before they decided, as it would be cruel kindness to take +it in for a time and then tire of it and send it to the union. + +But John Shelley was not a man to do this, as his wife well knew. If he +decided to keep the child he would do his duty by it, and go to the +workhouse himself before he suffered that to do so. All that day John +was very thoughtful, but when he came in to supper that night he told +Mrs. Shelley he had made up his mind, and they would keep the baby and +bring it up as their own daughter. Here, however, Mrs. Shelley raised an +objection. + +"We will keep it, by all means, John, but we can't bring a delicate +little thing like this up as we shall our own strong boys, who must work +for their living. This child may be claimed any day by its parents, so +we must try and have it educated like a lady when it gets old enough." + +John was inclined to dispute the wisdom of this; but as its education +was a thing of the far future, he very wisely thought it was useless to +discuss it, and resolved to let matters shape themselves, feeling sure +the baby would take its own place as it grew older. One matter puzzled +the good shepherd sorely. He was most particular in having his own +children baptised when they were a month old, and they could not tell +whether this baby had been baptised or no, though the rector thought its +parents were most likely Roman Catholics, in which case it would be sure +to have been christened, as it was two or three months old. + +The next question was, what was it to be called? For, if baptised, they +had no means of discovering its name. But here Jack came to the rescue. + +"Let's call her Fairy, mother. Dame Hursey says she is a fairy, and it +is a pretty name." + +"So it is, my son; and though she is no fairy, but a real child like +you, we will call her Fairy. It is a very good name for her, and when +she is old enough we will tell her why," said the shepherd. + +And so Fairy was the little stranger called as long as she lived in the +shepherd's family. + +(_To be continued._) + + + + +A PRINCESS WHO LIVED TWO LIVES. + +A ROMANCE OF HISTORY. + + +There was no lovelier woman in all the Russias than Carolina, the wife +of Alexis, eldest son and presumptive heir to Peter the Great. Her +beauty was not only that of the body, for her sweet temper and gentle +disposition made her beloved by all who were brought in contact with +her. The only being who did not yield to the charms of her surpassing +beauty and amiability was the one who ought to have prized her above all +others--her husband. His nature was far too coarse and brutal to +appreciate the treasure that he possessed, and the more he saw how +universally beloved his wife was, the more did she become an object of +aversion to him. For some time he treated her with cold neglect, but by +degrees he became more brutal in his behaviour, until one day, when she +offended him in some trifling respect, he dealt her an inhuman blow +which stretched her, apparently lifeless, at his feet. Well pleased at +being delivered so easily from what he only regarded as a hateful +burden, he gave orders that she should be buried with all due pomp, and +hastened away to another part of the kingdom. + +But when her ladies of honour came to raise the unhappy princess, they +found that she still breathed. Under the devoted attention of the +Countess of Konigsmark, who had always been her confidential attendant, +she slowly won her way back to life, and this while her funeral +obsequies were being celebrated with the greatest pomp throughout the +length and breadth of Russia, while the principal courts of Europe were +mourning her premature decease, and while her unnatural husband was +drowning the remembrance of his horrible crime in revelries and +excesses of all kinds. None knew that she was still alive but the +Countess of Konigsmark and one or two other of her most devoted +adherents. They kept her concealed from everyone; for well they knew +that Alexis, should he hear of her recovery, would take measures to rid +himself of her effectually. Acting under their advice, the princess +collected all the valuables she was able to lay her hands on, and, in +company with an old domestic, who assumed the character of her father, +set out for Paris. Here, however, she felt still within reach of Alexis, +and so, with her supposed father, she set sail for Louisiana, where the +French had lately formed extensive colonies. They settled down in New +Orleans, and Carolina began to rapidly recover her health and beauty. + +A young man, by name Moldask, who held a Government appointment in New +Orleans and who had spent many years in Russia thought that he +recognised in the beautiful stranger the princess who had been the +brightest star of the Muscovite Court. However, he could not believe +that the highborn lady of whose death he had heard and the daughter of +the feeble old man who had lately arrived from France were the same +person, wonderful though the resemblance between them might be. He kept +his ideas secret, but made himself so useful and agreeable to the +strangers, that finally they settled to cast in their lot with his, and +live under the same roof. Before the lapse of many months the news of +Alexis' death reached New Orleans. Moldask noticed the agitation with +which his friends received it, and told them that their secret was his. +They did not attempt a denial; so he offered to sacrifice his private +fortune, throw up his position in New Orleans, and take Carolina back to +Moscow. This offer she would hear nothing of. She thanked Moldask again +and again for his noble generosity, but expressed her fixed +determination not to revisit the scene of all that had been most +unpleasant in her life. She begged him not to betray her secret, and he +readily promised to keep it inviolate. The truth was that he had lost +his heart to the widow of Czar Peter's son. Respect, however, controlled +his feelings. He knew how exalted was her real station compared to his, +and resolved to conceal his love. + +Time passed on, and one autumn evening a pararalytic stroke carried off +Carolina's pseudo-father. After this it was, of course, impossible that +she and Moldask should continue to inhabit the same house. He came to +her on the morning after her faithful old friend's funeral, and +explained that he must seek a new abode unless she would so far cast +away all thoughts of her former station as to consent to call him +husband. The princess, who had long regarded him with feelings warmer +than those of mere friendship, agreed to link her fate with his, and +from now began the happiest period of her so far troubled life. Their +union was blessed by the advent of a little girl; nothing seemed wanting +to render her happiness complete. + +Years rolled by, and Moldask was attacked by a disease which baffled the +skill of the New Orleans doctors. His wife was determined that he should +have the best medical advice, and so persuaded him to sell all his +possessions and embark for Paris. Their journey was not in vain; the +skill of the Parisian physicians restored Moldask to good health, and he +obtained employment in a department of the French Government. + +One day, as Carolina was walking in the public gardens with her little +girl, she met the son of her faithful friend, the Countess of +Konigsmark. She recognised him instantly, and, fearing that he might +know her, tried to brush past him with averted head. The Marshal, +however, was struck with her appearance, and, turning round, followed +her until she sat down beneath some trees. The instant that he caught a +fair sight of her he recognised his former mistress, and quickly +approaching, bent his knee and carried her hand to his lips. She +implored him not to divulge her secret, but to come with her to her +home, and hear how she had fared since Alexis had, as he thought, killed +her. The Marshal consented to accompany her; he listened with interest +to her tale, and when he had heard it to the end announced his intention +of informing the King of France, that her highness might be restored to +her proper position and honours. Carolina, however, was quite +determined that this should not be. She begged the Marshal to keep her +secret for one week, as her husband had certain negotiations, which +would be ruined if her identity were disclosed. This he consented to do, +and Carolina dismissed him, with the assurance that on that day week he +should be definitely informed of her wishes in the matter. + +On the appointed day the Marshal found that the princess and her husband +had left their home. However, he succeeded in tracing them, and told the +king of the noble lady who was then in his dominions. His Majesty +entered into negotiations with the Empress Maria Theresa, with a view to +deciding upon the manner in which her august aunt should be treated. The +upshot of these negotiations was a most tender letter from the Empress +to Carolina, asking her to make the Austrian court her home, and +promising to load her husband and herself with honours and distinctions. +But the happy wife and mother felt that the life she had been leading +for the last few years was preferable in every way to the artificial +existence of a court, and refused her niece's generous offer. It was +renewed again and again; but nothing could shake her determination. + +For many years she led a life of the utmost happiness, and then death +deprived her of both husband and daughter. Maria Theresa renewed her +offers; but Carolina preferred to pass the rest of her days in solitude. +She accepted a small pension from the Empress, and retired to a small +cottage at Vitry, near Paris. After a quiet existence here for some few +years more she passed away, without ever having regretted her refusal to +rejoin the brilliant circle of a court. + + + + +VARIETIES. + + +CURIOUS FRESCO. + +In the Carthusian Monastery of Garignano, a few miles from Milan, are +some frescoes by Daniel Crespi, of Busto, which are said to be marvels +of art and imagination. One of them is grim enough, at any rate, and +awful. It represents a dead person rising from his bier, to announce to +all whom it might concern that, although they were burying him in the +abode of holiness, and were now adoring him as a saint, he was, as a +fact, condemned to hell. + +Perhaps one of our own famous modern divines was thinking of this fresco +when he declared that one great source of surprise, to those who went to +heaven, would be to find so many there they had not expected to see, and +to _miss_ so many they had thought to meet. + + +"NO' THE DAY, HONEST WOMAN!" + +Dr. John Erskine, a well-known Scottish divine, was remarkable for his +simplicity of manner and gentle temper. He returned so often from the +pulpit minus his pockethandkerchief that Mrs. Erskine at last began to +suspect that the handkerchiefs were stolen by some of the old women who +lined the pulpit stairs. So both to baulk and detect the culprit she +sewed a corner of the handkerchief to one of the pockets of his coat +tails. Half way up the pulpit stairs the good doctor felt a tug, +whereupon he turned round to the old woman whose was the guilty hand, to +say, with great gentleness and simplicity:-- + +"No' the day, honest woman, no' the day. Mrs. Erskine has sewed it in!" + + +A BRAVE WIFE. + +In 1872 a storm overtook a Boston ship on the banks of Newfoundland. The +captain--Captain Wilson--had his shoulder-blade broken by the fall of a +mast, and the first mate and part of the crew were at the same time +disabled. + +No sooner, however, had the captain been carried to his cabin than his +wife, a woman of one-and-twenty, hurried on deck, told the men to work +with a will, and she would take them into port. The wreckage was +cleared, the pumps manned, and the gale was weathered. Then a jury-mast +was rigged, the ship put before the wind, and in twenty-one days she +reached St. Thomas. After repairing damages there, finding her husband +still helpless, the indomitable woman navigated the ship to Liverpool. + +Captain Wilson was never able to resume work, and for seven years his +brave wife supported him and their only child by working as clerk in a +dry goods store. Then he died, and Mrs. Wilson was deservedly appointed +to a custom-house inspectorship by the American Government. + + +OLD FRIENDS.--The world has few greater pleasures than that which two +friends enjoy in tracing back, at some distant time, those transactions +and events through which they have passed together.--_Dr. Johnson._ + + +A RARE COMPANION.--She whom you can treat with unreserved familiarity, +at the same time preserving your dignity and her respect, is a rare +companion, and her acquaintance should be cultivated. + + +THINGS OF VALUE. + + What shines and glitters has its birth + But for the present hour alone; + The real--the thing of truth and worth-- + To all posterity goes down. + + _--Goethe._ + +BEETHOVEN IN GERMANY.--When the German talks of symphonies he means +Beethoven; the two names are to him one and indivisible; his joy, his +pride. As Italy has its Naples, France its Revolution, England its +Navigation, so Germany has its Beethoven symphonies. The German forgets +in his Beethoven that he has no school of painting; with Beethoven he +imagines that he has again won the battles that he lost under Napoleon; +he even dares to place him on a level with Shakespeare.--_Robert +Schumann._ + + +A NEW USE FOR A DOG.--A farmer's daughter in the West of England +received a hairy poodle dog from a friend in town. The unsophisticated +damsel wrote back thanking her friend for the present, and saying that +she found it very handy, when tied to a stick, to clean windows with. + + +THE WORST OF SUCCESS.--She that has never known adversity is but half +acquainted with others or with herself. Constant success shows us but +one side of the world, for, as it surrounds us with friends who will +tell us only our merits, so it silences those enemies from whom alone we +can learn our defects. + + +RIGHTS AND DUTIES.--There is no right without its duties, and no duty +without its rights. + + + + +MERLE'S CRUSADE. + +BY ROSA NOUCHETTE CAREY, Author of "Aunt Diana," "For Lilias," etc. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +MERLE'S LAST EVENING AT HOME. + + +"So it is all settled, Merle." + +"Yes, Aunt Agatha," I returned, briskly, for she spoke in a lugubrious +voice, and as one sad face is enough beside the family hearth, I assumed +a tolerably cheerful aspect. If only Aunt Agatha's eyes would not look +at me so tenderly! + +"Poor child!" she sighed; and then, as I remained silent, she continued +in a few minutes, "I wish I could reconcile myself more to the idea, but +I cannot help feeling a presentiment that you will live to repent this +strange step you are taking." + +I found this speech a little damping, but I bore it without flinching. +One can never set out down some new road without a few friendly missiles +flying about one's ears. "Remember, I told you such and such a thing +would happen if you did not take my advice. I am only warning you for +your good." Alas! that one's dearest friend should be transformed into a +teasing gad-fly! What can one do but go straight across the enemy's +country when the boats are destroyed behind one? I always did think that +a grand action on Xenophon's part. + +"You have not given me your opinion of my new mistress," was my wicked +rejoinder. + +Aunt Agatha drew herself up at this and put on her grandest manner. "You +need not go out of your way to vex me, Merle. I am sufficiently +humiliated without that." + +"Aunt Agatha," I remonstrated; for this was too much for my forbearance, +"do you think I would do anything to vex you when we are to part in a +few days? Oh, you dear, silly woman!" for she was actually crying, "I am +only longing to know what you think of Mrs. Morton." + +"She is perfectly lovely, Merle," she returned, drying her eyes, as I +kissed and coaxed her. "I very nearly fell in love with her myself. I +liked the simple way in which she sat down and talked to me about my old +pupils, making herself quite at home in our little drawing-room, and I +was much pleased with her manner when she spoke about you; it was almost +a pity you came into the room just then." + +"I left you alone for nearly half an hour; please to remember that." + +"Indeed! it did not seem nearly so long. Half an hour! and it passed so +quickly, too. Well, I must say Mrs. Morton is a most interesting woman; +she is full of intelligence, and yet so gentle. She has lost her +baby--did she tell you that? only four months ago, and her husband does +not like her to wear mourning. She is a devoted wife, I can see that, +but I have a notion that you will have some difficulty in satisfying Mr. +Morton; he is very particular and hard to please." + +"I have found out that for myself; he is a man of strong prejudices." + +"Well, you must do your best to conciliate him; tact goes a long way in +these cases. Mrs. Morton has evidently taken a fancy to you, Merle. She +told me over again how her baby boy had made friends with you at once; +she said your manner was very frank and winning, and though you looked +young you seemed very staid and self-reliant." + +"I wish Uncle Keith had heard that. Did she say any more about me, Aunt +Agatha?" + +"No, you interrupted us at that point, and the conversation became more +general; but, my dear, I must scold you about one thing: how absurd you +were to insist on wearing caps. Mrs. Morton was quite embarrassed; she +said she would never have mentioned such a thing." + +"But I have set my heart on wearing them, Aunt Agatha," I returned, very +quickly; "you have no idea how nice I shall look in a neat bib apron +over my dark print gown, and a regular cap such as hospital nurses wear. +I should be quite disappointed if I did not carry out that part of my +programme; the only thing that troubles me is the smallness of my +salary--I mean wages. Thirty pounds a year will never make my fortune." + +"You cannot ask more with a good conscience, Merle; you have never been +out before, and have no experience. Mrs. Morton said herself that her +husband had promised to raise it at the end of six months if you proved +yourself competent; it is quite as much as a nursery governess's +salary." + +"Oh, I am not mercenary," I replied, hastily, "and I shall save out of +thirty pounds a year. I must keep a nice dress for my home visits and +for Sundays, though it is dreadful to think that I shall not always go +to church every Sunday until little Joyce is older; that will be a sad +deprivation." + +"Yes, my poor child, but you must not speak as though this were the only +serious drawback; you will find plenty of difficulties in your position; +even Mrs. Morton confessed that." + +"The world is full of difficulties," I returned, loftily; "there have +been thorns and briars ever since Adam's time. Do you remember your +favourite fable of the old man and the bundle of sticks, Aunt Agatha? I +mean to treat my difficulties in the same way he managed his. I shall +break each stick singly." + +She smiled approvingly at this, and then, as Uncle Keith's knock reached +her ear, she rose quickly and went out of the room. + +The moment I was left alone my assumed briskness of manner dropped into +the mental dishabille that we wear for our own private use and comfort. +Those two had always so much to say to each other that I was sure of at +least half an hour's solitude, and in some moods self is the finest +company. Yes, I had destroyed my boats, and now my motto must be +"Forward!" This afternoon I had pledged myself to a new service--a +service of self-renunciation and patient labour, undertaken--yes, I dare +to say it--for the welfare of the large sisterhood of waiting and +working women. A servant? No, a soldier; for I should be one among the +vanguard, who strive to make a breach in the great fortress of +conventionality. Not that I feared the word service, considering what +Divine lips had said on that subject--"I am among you as one who +serveth--" but I knew how the world shrank from such terms. + +I have always maintained that half the so-called difficulties of life +consist mainly in our dread of other people's opinions; women are +especially trammelled by this bondage. They breathe the atmosphere of +their own special world, and the chill wind of popular opinion blows +coldly over them; like the sensitive plant, they shiver and wither up at +a touch. I believe the master minds that achieve great things have +created their own atmosphere, else how can they appear so impervious to +criticism? How can they carry themselves so calmly, when their +contemporaries are sneering round them? We must live above ourselves and +each other; there is no other way of getting rid of the shams and +disguises of life; and yet how is one who has been born in slavery to be +absolutely true? How is an English gentlewoman to shake off the +prejudices of caste and declare herself free? + +Ah, well! this was the enigma I had set myself to solve. And now the old +life--the protected girl's life--was receding from me; the old guards, +the old landmarks were to be removed by my own hands. Should I live to +repent my rash act, as Aunt Agatha predicted, or should I at some future +time, when I looked back upon this wintry day, thank God, humbly and +with tears of gratitude, that I had courage given me to see the right +and do it, "ad finem fidelis," faithful to the last? + + * * * * * + +I found those last few days of home-life singularly trying. Indeed, I am +not sure that I was not distinctly grateful when the final evening +arrived. When one has to perform a painful duty there is no use in +lingering over it; and when one is secretly troubled, a spoken and too +discursive sympathy only irritates our mental membrane. How could Job, +for example, tolerate the sackcloth and ashes, and, worse still, the +combative eloquence of his friends? + +Aunt Agatha's pathetic looks and pitying words fretted me to the very +verge of endurance. I wished she would have been less mindful of my +comforts, that she would not have insisted on helping me with my sewing, +and loading me with little surprises in the shape of gifts. But for the +bitter cold that kept me an unwilling prisoner by the fireside, I would +have escaped into my own room to avoid the looks that seemed to follow +me everywhere. + +But I would not yield to my inward irritability; I hummed a tune; I even +sang to myself, as I hemmed my new bib aprons, or quilled the neat +border for my cap. Nay, I became recklessly gay the last night, and +dressed myself in what I termed my nurse's uniform, a dark-navy blue +cambric, and then went down to show myself to Uncle Keith, who was +reading aloud the paper to Aunt Agatha. I could see him start as I +entered; but Aunt Agatha's first words made me blush, and in a moment I +repented my misplaced spirit of fun. + +"Why, Merle, how pretty you look! Does not the child look almost pretty, +Ezra, though that cap does hide her nice smooth hair? I had no idea that +dress would be so becoming." But the rest of Aunt Agatha's speech was +lost upon me, for I ran out of the room. Why, they seemed actually to +believe that I was play-acting, that my part was a becoming one! Pretty, +indeed! And here such a strange revulsion of feeling took possession of +me that I absolutely shed a few tears, though none but myself was +witness to this humiliating fact. + +I did not go downstairs for a long time after that, and then, to my +relief, I found Uncle Keith alone; for men are less sharp in some +matters than women, and he would never find out that I had been crying, +as Aunt Agatha would; but I was a little taken aback when he put down +his paper, and asked, in a kind voice, why I had stayed so long in the +cold, and if I had not finished my packing. + +"Oh, yes," I returned, promptly, "everything was done, and my trunk was +only waiting to be strapped down." + +"That is right," he said, quite heartily, "always be beforehand with +your duties, Merle; your aunt tells me you have made up your mind to +leave us in the morning. I should have thought the afternoon or early +evening would have been better." + +"Oh, no, Uncle Keith," I exclaimed, and then, oddly enough, I began to +laugh, and yet the provoking tears would come to my eyes, for a vision +of sundry school domestics arriving towards night with their goods and +chattels, and the remembrance of their shy faces in the morning light +seemed to evoke a sort of dreary mirth; but to my infinite surprise and +embarrassment, Uncle Keith patted me on the shoulder as though I were a +child. + +"There, there; never mind showing a bit of natural feeling that does you +credit; your aunt is fretting herself to death over losing +you--Hir-rumph; and I do not mind owning that the house will be a trifle +dull without you; and, of course, a young creature like you must feel +it, too." And with that he took my hands, awkwardly enough, and began +warming them in his own, for they were blue with cold. If Aunt Agatha +had only seen him doing it, and me, with the babyish tears running down +my face. + +"Why, look here," continued Uncle Keith, cheerily, with a sort of +cricket-like chirp, "we are all as down as possible, just because you +are leaving us, and yet you will only be two or three miles away, and +any day if you want us we can be with you. Why, there is no difficulty, +really; you are trying your little experiment, and I will say you are a +brave girl for venturing on such a brave scheme. Well, if it does not +answer, here is your home, and your own corner by the fireside, and an +old uncle ready to work for you. I can't say more than that, Merle." + +"Oh, Uncle Keith," I returned, sobbing remorsefully, "why are you so +good to me, when I have always been so ungrateful for your kindness?" + +"Nay, nay, we will leave bygones alone," he answered, a little huskily. +"I never minded your tandrums, knowing there was a good heart at the +bottom. I only wished I was not such a dry old fellow, and that you +could have been fonder of me. Perhaps you will understand me better some +day, and----" Here he stopped and cleared his throat, and said +"hir-rumph" once or twice, and then I felt a thin crackling bit of paper +underneath my palm. "It will buy you something useful, my dear," he +finished, getting up in a hurry. A five-pound note, and he had lost so +much money and had to do without so many comforts! Who can wonder that I +jumped up and gave him a penitent hug. + +It was long before I slept that night, and my first waking thoughts the +next morning were hardly as pleasant as usual. A premonitory symptom of +homesickness seized me as I glanced round my little room in the dim, +winter light. Aunt Agatha had made it so pretty; but here a certain +suspicious moisture stole under my eyelids, and I gave myself a resolute +shake, and commenced my toilet in a business-like way that chased away +gloomy thoughts. + +Never had the little dining-room looked more inviting than when I +entered it that morning. One of Uncle Keith's carefully hoarded logs +blazed and crackled in the roomy fireplace, a delicious aroma of coffee +and smoking ham pervaded the room. Aunt Agatha, in her pretty morning +cap, was placing a vase of hothouse flowers some old pupil had sent her +in the centre of the table, and the bullfinch was whistling as merrily +as ever, while old Tom watched him, sleepily, from the rug. I was rather +long warming my hands and stroking his sleek fur, for somehow I could +not bring myself to look or speak in quite my ordinary manner; and +though Uncle Keith did his best to enliven us by reading out scraps from +his newspaper, I am afraid we gave him only a partial attention. When +Uncle Keith had bade me a husky good-bye, and had gone to his office, +Aunt Agatha and I made a grand feint of being busy. There was very +little to do, really, but I considered it incumbent to be in a great +state of activity. I am afraid to say how many times I ran up and down +stairs for articles that were safely deposited at the bottom of my box. +Aunt Agatha put a stop to it at last by taking my hand and putting me +forcibly in Uncle Keith's big chair. + +"Sit there and keep warm, Merle; the cab will not be here for another +half hour; what is the use of our pretending that we are not exceedingly +unhappy? My dear, you are leaving us with a sore heart, I can see that, +and it only makes me love you all the better. Yes, indeed, Merle," for I +was clinging to her now and sobbing softly under my breath; "and however +things may turn out, whether this step be a failure or not, I will +always say that you are a brave girl, who tried to do her duty." + +"Are you sure you think that, Aunt Agatha?" + +Then she smiled to herself a little sadly. + +"You remind me of the baby Merle who was so anxious to help everyone. I +remember you such a little creature, trying to lift the nursery chair, +because your mother was tired; and how you dragged it across the room +until you were red in the face, and came to me rubbing your little fat +hands, and looking so important. 'The chair hurted baby drefful, but it +might hurted poor mammy worser:' that was what you said. I think you +would still hurt yourself 'drefful' if you could help someone else." + +It was nice to hear this. What can be sweeter or less harmful than +praise from one we love? It was nice to sit there with Aunt Agatha's +soft hand in mine, and be petted. It would be long before I should have +a cosy time with her again. It put fresh heart in me somehow; like +Jonathan's taste of honey, "it lightened my eyes," so that when the +final good-bye came, I could smile as I said it, and carry away an +impression of Aunt Agatha's smile too, as she stood on the steps, with +Patience behind her, watching until I was out of sight. I am afraid I am +different to most young women of my age--more imaginative, and perhaps a +little morbid. Many things in everyday life came to me in the guise of +symbols or signs--a good-bye, for example. A parting even for a short +time always appears to me a faint type of that last solemn parting when +we bid good-bye to temporal things. I suppose kind eyes will watch us +then, kind hands clasp ours; as we start on that long journey they will +bid God help us, as with failing breath and, perhaps, some natural +longings for the friends we love, we go out into the great unknown, +waiting until a Diviner Guide take us by the hand. "God help you, poor +soul," we seem to hear them say, and perhaps we hear the drip of their +tears as they say it; but in that other room, who can tell how gently +those human drops will be wiped away, in that place where pain and +trouble are unknown? + +(_To be continued._) + + + + +ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. + + +MISCELLANEOUS. + +IMPERIUM ET LIBERTAS.--There is no question of etiquette in the matter +of the Highland friends of the bridegroom appearing at the wedding in +their national costume. It is only a matter for their own decision and +their friends' permission. + +V. D. V.--You were exceedingly wrong in taking walks with any man +without your parents' permission, and you degraded yourself by enlisting +the aid of a servant to get letters from him unknown to them, and so led +her to do wrong and to act in an untrustworthy way to her master and +mistress. You ought to tell her that you regret having so done, and will +do so no more. + +A DEVONSHIRE DUMPLING says: "I would rather not drink vinegar or raw +lemon-juice, if you do not mind, please." Dear little reader, pray do +not feel uneasy on that score; nothing is further from our wishes! If +your health be so good, leave yourself and your wholesome fat alone. If +out of health, the case is otherwise. Dropsical puffing should be +prescribed for by a doctor. + +ROSS-SHIRE LASSIE.--The 5th October, 1869, was a Tuesday; the 25th +March, 1865, was a Saturday. + +LILY.--The passage you quote may mean that the blessed ones who have +attained to perfect purity in the kingdom of their Father above were +greater than the greatest still on earth. + +A LIVELY GIRL is not likely to "get too stout." She inquires, "What is +the best kind of a _fiance_ to have?" Judging of her suitability for +assuming the responsibility of selecting one, and of leaving her +mother's sheltering wing, we should reply--a gilt gingerbread man. + +A METEOR.--The Rosicrucians were a mystic brotherhood, made known to the +outer world in certain books published in 1614-15-16. The last book, +published in 1616, was acknowledged by Johann Valentine Andreae, and +entitled "The Chymische Hochzeit Christiani Rosenkreuz." The former +works are likewise described by him. From these we learn that one +Christian Rosenkreuz, a German noble of the fourteenth century, founded +a brotherhood of seven adepts on his return from the East, and that +among their laws was one that they should each heal the sick gratis (or, +at least, endeavour to do so), should meet annually at a certain secret +place, and adopt the symbol of the _Rose Crux_, or rose springing from a +cross, the device on Luther's seal. In 1622 societies of alchymists at +The Hague and elsewhere assumed this title, and the tenets of the +community were held by Cabalists, Freemasons, and Illuminati, and +professed also by Cagliostro. It is said that a Lodge of Rosicrucians +now exists in London. + +TUMPY.--Our answers depend on the questions and style of the letters +addressed to us. You were right in your surmise. Your writing is +legible, but not sufficiently regular. If you write us a ridiculous +letter we promise you a suitable answer. We are so sorry for your poor +father. Could he not subscribe for _Punch_, or procure a few copies of +the famous "Mrs. Brown" series? + +HIGHLAND MARY inquires, "Who was the author of the first settler, and +where is it?" How can we tell "where it is"? There have been "first +settlers" in every part of the globe. The first part of your letter is +better written than the concluding portion, and gives good promise for a +good running hand by-and-by. + +C. HORSELL.--The lines you send us are very faulty; in fact, are only +badly-rhymed prose; but if it amuses you to write such, do not desist, +as outlets are useful to very young people, and it seems desirable for +them to give vent to their feelings a little. + +NOLENS VOLENS.--Many people do not begin "My dear So-and-So," nor end +with "Yours sincerely," etc., on a postcard, but merely write their +address in full at the top, and the message signed beneath it, with +initials only. But you can do as you like in the matter; there is no +rule. We wonder that, having such suspicions of our honesty, you +continued to read our paper. + +ROUSSEAU and FLOSSY.--We know of no cure for mere nervousness, unless, +as sometimes happens, it passes into a disease, when a doctor should be +consulted. Try to forget yourself in the pleasure of adding to the +enjoyment of others. + +HOPE ATHELING.--_A.E.I._ means "for ever." "I don't think" is a common +colloquialism used by everyone, and is not more incorrect than such +expressions generally are. + +J. S. F.-- + + "Not even the tenderest heart, and next our own, + Knows half the reasons why we smile and sigh," + +is from Keble's "Christian Year," 24th Sunday after Trinity, verse 1. + +MARIE.--The quotation-- + + "A primrose by a river's brim + A yellow primrose was to him, + And it was nothing more," + +is from Wordsworth's poem, "Peter Bell," part i.; stanza 12. + +ERA.--The signification of the bee appearing on the monument of the +Prince Imperial, is that the French royal mantle and standard were +thickly sown with golden bees instead of "Louis flowers" or _Fleurs de +lys_. The origin dates back to the time of the early Egyptians, who +symbolised their kings under this emblem, the honey indicating the +reward they gave to the well-doers, and the sting the punishment they +inflicted on the evil. More than 300 golden bees were found in the tomb +of Childeric, A.D. 1653. Offer your song to some composer. Sometimes +they are in request; more frequently there are more offered than are +required. All depends on the fancy of the composer. Only two questions +are allowed, and the answers given at the discretion of the Editor. We +regret that you have been disappointed. + +[Illustration] + +CISSIE.--You cannot interfere with the laudable work of the rector in +building a school-house for the use of his parishioners; it is his duty. +But the parents of the children will have the right of choice between +this school and your private one. Mourning for a parent lasts a year; +but you are free to wear it longer if you like. + +WINNIE E. L.--You should consult a doctor. We cannot usurp his place, +though we are always willing to give sensible advice on hygienic and +sanitary matters. + +POLLY and OTHERS.--The measurements of a classic figure, as given on +authority, are: height, 5 feet 41/2 inches; bust, 32 inches; waist, 24 +inches; 9 inches from under the arm to the waist, with long arms and +neck. The proportions of a larger and more stately woman or girl would +be: height, 5 feet 5 or 6 inches; bust, 36 inches; waist 261/2 inches; +hips 35 inches; thick part of arm, 111/2 inches; wrist, 61/2 inches. The +hands and feet should not be too small. "Polly" will see that no +arrangements are made by judges of true beauty and its lines for waists +of 15 or 16 inches. They are simply deformities. + +BUDDIE.--The book was published anonymously. + +C. B. GLOUCESTER.--Easter Day fell on the 25th March, in 1546, 1641, +1736, 1886, and will fall next time in 1943. Tram, used as a prefix to +way and road, is the last syllable of the name of their inventor, Mr. +Benjamin Outram, who in 1800 made improvements in the system of +railways for common roads, then in use in the North of England. The +first iron tramroad from Croydon to Wandsworth was completed July 24th, +1801. Mr. Outram was the father of the celebrated Indian general, Sir +James Outram. + +WILD HYACINTH.--We know of nothing save to benefit your general health. +The intense perspiration is evidently an effort of nature. Do you take a +tepid bath every morning, and as much exercise as possible? You have +doubtless received your book. + +R. H. P.--We do not think cold and haughty people are at all nice, nor +do we think they could be happy themselves, or make others happy. The +Christian ideal is neither coldness nor haughtiness, but sympathy and +love. You must take care of those long tails at the end of your words in +writing. Better tie them up as the Dutch farmers do the tails of their +cows. They are in writing ugly and useless appendages. + +NANNIE B. and FIDDLESTICKS have our best thanks for their letters. + +ISIS.--We are much obliged for the account of your visit to the Temple, +and we regret we can make no use of it. You will acquire more ease in +writing by constant practice. + +GERTRUDE.--We think the first year you must take what is offered to you +in the way of salary. + +A FIELD OFFICER'S DAUGHTER.--We have perused the two poems, and consider +that they hold some promise of better things, though both are faulty in +construction and rhyme. + +INCONSISTENCY'S paper is too much like a schoolgirl's composition for +our pages; but she evidently tries to think, which is more than many +people do. + +ELSIE.--We never heard any more of the saying about Brighton, than "a +country without trees and a sea without ships," and we have looked for +the original authorship in vain. + +SWEET VIOLETS.--We know of nothing but constant rubbing and the practice +of gymnastics to do your shoulders good. You probably have some trick of +standing crookedly that has helped to make it grow out, such as standing +on one leg, or giving down on one side. + +FOREVER AND EVER writes English very well, though her writing is rather +too pointed to suit English tastes. But at 16 she has plenty of time to +alter it if she likes. + +B. H. M. W.--The lines show much good feeling and affection, but no +poetic talent. + +A WELL WISHER.--Rydal and Loughrigg, a township of England, Co. +Westmoreland, on the Leven, two miles N.W. of Ambleside, celebrated for +its beautiful lake, on the banks of which stands Rydal Mount, long the +residence of the poet Wordsworth. + +MADGE.--We think "Madge" must not worry herself, as she certainly cannot +help people who will not allow themselves to be helped, in her way at +least of assisting them; good advice is generally unpalatable. She must +look on the best side of the matter, and hope that her friend may be +happy and comfortable in her own way. We doubt that you could have +prevented the marriage, as your friend is very likely tired of the +trouble of earning her living, and thinks of marriage as a way of +escape. You must commend both her and her affairs to God, and cease +worrying yourself. + +NELL.--Your mother's brother is your uncle, no matter whether by the +father or the mother. To put the case in another way, your grandfather's +son is your uncle by whatever wife he had, first or fourth. Of course +you could not marry him. See the "table of degrees of affinity" in the +Book of Common Prayer. + +ONE OF OUR GIRLS.--We think that men not much exposed to cold and damp, +and night work, such as sailors and soldiers, do not need the warmth nor +stimulant obtained by smoking any more than women do. Nevertheless, a +single cigar or pipe daily would not be injurious to a grown man, though +much so to a young lad in his teens. Men are so careless about cleansing +their pipes from that poisonous nicotine, that multitudes have found +their habit of excessive smoking a highly provoking cause of cancer in +the mouth. + +HEBRIDEAN.--We think some foolish person has been worrying you with +nonsensical fault-finding. We can not see that you were wrong in any +way. You were with other girls and with your brothers, and that should +be sufficient protection, whoever you were walking with. Do not allow +yourself to be teased. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Girl's Own Paper, Vol. VIII: No. +356, October 23, 1886., by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER, VOL. *** + +***** This file should be named 18395.txt or 18395.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/3/9/18395/ + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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