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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Hudson, by Wallace Bruce
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Hudson
+       Three Centuries of History, Romance and Invention
+
+Author: Wallace Bruce
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2006 [EBook #17823]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HUDSON ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Curtis Weyant, Lesley Halamek and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by Cornell University Digital Collections)
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Each page of this book contained, as a footer, a
+stanza of poetry, or a prose quotation, which, although pertinent to
+the text, were not part of it.
+
+I have retained these, moving them to a suitable location between
+paragraphs, and enclosing them in short markers: * * * ....* * *. Any
+poetry not enclosed within short * * * markers is an integral part of
+the text.
+
+The list of typos and corrections is at the end of the book.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE HUDSON
+
+  Three Centuries of
+  History, Romance and Invention
+
+
+
+  BY WALLACE BRUCE
+
+
+
+
+  Centennial Edition
+
+
+
+
+  Published by
+  BRYANT UNION COMPANY
+  NEW YORK
+
+
+
+COPYRIGHT 1907 BY WALLACE BRUCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CENTENNIAL GREETING.
+                                                             PAGE
+
+HISTORY, ROMANCE AND INVENTION                      9-39
+  An Open Book                                                 10
+  The Hudson and the Rhine                                     11
+  The Half Moon                                                12
+  Its Discovery                                                15
+  First Description                                            16
+  Names of the Hudson                                          18
+  Hills and Mountains                                          19
+  Sources of the Hudson                                        19
+  First Settlement                                             20
+  The West India Company                                       21
+  Original Manors and Patents                                  23
+  The Dutch and the English                                    24
+  New Amsterdam                                                25
+  New York                                                     26
+  Sons of Liberty                                              28
+  Greater New York                                             30
+  Hudson River Steamboats                                      31
+  Day Line Steamers                                            34
+  The Old Reaches                                              38
+  Five Divisions of the Hudson                                 39
+
+
+NEW YORK TO ALBANY.
+
+DESBROSSES STREET PIER TO FORTY-SECOND STREET      41-43
+  Historic River Front                                         41
+  A Great Panorama                                             41
+  Statue of Liberty--Stevens Castle                            42
+
+FORTY-SECOND TO ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-NINTH       43-48
+  Weehawken, Hamilton and Burr                                 43
+  Riverside Drive and Park                                     45
+  Columbia University                                          46
+  General Grant's Tomb                                         46
+
+ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-NINTH ST. TO YONKERS        49-50
+  Washington Heights                                           49
+  The Palisades                                                52
+  Island of Manhattan                                          56
+  Spuyten Duyvel Creek                                         57
+  Yonkers                                                      58
+
+YONKERS TO WEST POINT                              59-96
+  Hastings and Dobbs Ferry                                     60
+  Tappan Zee and Piermont                                      61
+  Irvington and "Sunnyside"                                    62
+  Washington Irving                                            63
+  The Headless Horseman                                        66
+  Tarrytown and Tappan                                         67
+  Sleepy Hollow                                                70
+  Nyack                                                        72
+  Ossining                                                     73
+  Croton River and Reservoir                                   74
+  Haverstraw                                                   75
+  Stony Point                                                  77
+  Peekskill                                                    79
+  Story of Captain Kidd                                        80
+  The Highlands                                                81
+  Dunderberg                                                   82
+  Anthony's Nose                                               83
+  Fort Clinton and Fort Montgomery                             84
+  Beverley House                                               87
+  Arnold's Flight                                              88
+  Buttermilk Falls                                             91
+  West Point Military Academy                                  92
+  Plateau Buildings and Memorials                           93-94
+  Fort Putnam                                                  95
+
+WEST POINT TO NEWBURGH                            97-103
+  Northern Gate of Highlands                                   98
+  "Undercliff"                                                 99
+  Storm King                                                  100
+  Cornwall and "Idlewild"                                     102
+
+NEWBURGH TO POUGHKEEPSIE                         104-128
+  Washington's Headquarters                                   104
+  Refusing the Crown                                          105
+  Suffering of Soldiers                                       106
+  Cessation of Hostilities                                    107
+  Marquis de Lafayette                                        109
+  Centennial Celebration                                      110
+  Fishkill                                                    113
+  Duyvel's Dans Kammer                                        118
+  "Locust Grove"                                              119
+  The Storm Ship                                              120
+  Poughkeepsie                                                121
+
+POUGHKEEPSIE TO KINGSTON                         129-146
+  Hyde Park                                                   130
+  Mount Hymettus                                              130
+  Rhinecliff                                                  135
+  City of Kingston                                            136
+  The Senate House                                            138
+  The Southern Catskills                                      142
+
+KINGSTON TO CATSKILL                             147-168
+  Montgomery Place                                            147
+  Story of Steam Navigation                                   149
+  Robert Fulton                                               151
+  The "Clermont"                                              152
+  Tivoli                                                      154
+  Saugerties                                                  156
+  The Livingston Country                                      157
+  The "Shad Industry"                                         158
+  Germantown                                                  160
+  Man in the Mountain                                         161
+  New York City Water Supply                                  162
+  The Clover Reach                                            163
+  Catskill                                                    164
+  Otis Elevating Railway                                      165
+
+CATSKILL TO HUDSON                               169-172
+  Hudson                                                      169
+  Columbia Springs                                            170
+  Claverack and Hillsdale                                     171
+
+HUDSON TO ALBANY                                 173-185
+  Athens                                                      173
+  The Ice Industry                                            173
+  Anthony Van Corlear                                         176
+  The Mahican Tribe                                           177
+  The Mahicans, Delawares and Iroquois                        178
+  The Old Van Rensselaer House                                180
+  Albany                                                      181
+
+
+THE UPPER HUDSON.
+
+ALBANY TO SARATOGA                               186-191
+    Saratoga                                                  187
+    Historic Saratoga                                         189
+    Mount McGregor                                            190
+
+SARATOGA TO THE ADIRONDACKS                      191-201
+    Saratoga to Lake George                                   192
+
+LAKE GEORGE TO THE ADIRONDACKS                   197-201
+    Ticonderoga                                               198
+    Bluff Point                                               199
+    Plattsburgh and the Saranacs                              201
+
+SOURCE OF THE HUDSON                             202-210
+    The Tahawas Club                                          202
+    The Upper Ausable                                         203
+    Haystack and Camp Colden                                  204
+    The Deserted Village                                      205
+    Indian Pass                                               206
+    Tahawas                                                   210
+
+GEOLOGY, TIDES AND CONDENSED POINTS              211-224
+    Geological Formation                                  211-215
+    The Hudson Tide                                           215
+    Condensed Points--New York to Albany                  216-224
+
+
+[Illustration: ROBERT FULTON'S "CLERMONT" 1807]
+
+
+
+
+1907--1909
+
+_CENTENNIAL GREETING_
+
+
+_Hendrick Hudson and Robert Fulton are closely associated in the
+history of our river, and more particularly at this time, as the dates
+of their achievements unite the centennial of the first successful
+steamer in 1807, with the tri-centennial of the discovery of the river
+in 1609. In fact, these three centuries of navigation, with rapidly
+increasing development in later years, might be graphically
+condensed--_
+
+"_Half Moon_," _1609_; "_Clermont_," _1807_;
+
+"_Hendrick Hudson_," _1906_.
+
+_Singularly enough the discovery of Hendrick Hudson, and the invention
+of Robert Fulton are also similar in having many adverse claimants who
+forget the difference between attempt and accomplishment._
+
+_Everyone knows that Verrazano entered the Narrows and harbor of
+our river in 1524, and sailed far enough to see the outline of the
+Palisades; that Gomez visited its mouth in 1525; Cabot still earlier
+in 1498; and various Norsemen, named and nameless, for several
+centuries before them, coasted along the shore and indenture of the
+"River of the Manhattoes," but failed to acquire or transmit any
+knowledge of the river's real course or character, and it was left for
+Hendrick Hudson to be its first voyager and thereby to have and to
+hold against all comers the glory of discovery._
+
+       * * *
+
+  A century vast of Hudson-fame
+    Which Irving's fancy seals;
+  Whose ripples murmur Morse's name
+    And flash to Fulton's wheels.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+_So Robert Fulton had several predecessors in the idea of applying
+steam to navigation--John Fitch in 1785, William Symington in 1788 and
+many others who likewise_ coasted along the shore and indenture of a
+great idea, _marked by continual failure and final abandonment. It was
+reserved for Fulton to complete and stamp upon his labor the seal of
+service and success, and to stand, therefore, its accepted inventor._
+
+_In addition to the invention of Fulton who has contributed so much
+to the business and brotherhood of mankind, the telegraph of Morse
+occupies a prominent page of our Hudson history, and it is said that
+Morse left unfinished a novel, the incidents of which were associated
+with the Highlands, in order to work out his idea which gave the
+Hudson a grander chapter._
+
+_Fulton's and Morse's inventions are also happily associated in this,
+that the steamboat was necessary before the Atlantic cable, born of
+Morse's invention, could be laid, and, singularly enough, the laying
+of the cable, largely promoted by Hudson River genius and capital,
+by Field, Cooper, Morse and others on August 5, 1857, marks the very
+middle of the centennial which we are now observing._
+
+       * * *
+
+  A cycle grand with wonders fraught
+    That triumph over time and space;
+  In woven steel its dreams are wrought,
+    The nations whisper face to face.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: _Hendrick Hudson's "Half Moon_."]
+
+
+
+
+THE HUDSON
+
+
+Among all the rivers of the world the Hudson is acknowledged queen,
+decked with romance, jewelled with poetry, clad with history, and
+crowned with beauty. More than this, the Hudson is a noble threshold
+to a great continent and New York Bay a fitting portal. The traveler
+who enters the Narrows for the first time is impressed with wonder,
+and the charm abides even with those who pass daily to and fro amid
+her beauties. No other river approaches the Hudson in varied grandeur
+and sublimity, and no other city has so grand and commodious a harbor
+as New York. It has been the privilege of the writer of this handbook
+to see again and again most of the streams of the old world "renowned
+in song and story," to behold sunrise on the Bay of Naples and sunset
+at the Golden Gate of San Francisco, but the spell of the Hudson
+remains unbroken, and the bright bay at her mouth reflects the
+noontide without a rival. To pass a day in her company, rich with
+the story and glory of three hundred years, is worth a trip across a
+continent, and it is no wonder that the European traveler says again
+and again: "to see the Hudson alone, is worth a voyage across the
+Atlantic."
+
+       * * *
+
+    A very good land to fall in with and a pleasant land to see!
+
+    _Hendrick Hudson_
+
+       * * *
+
+How like a great volume of history romance and poetry seem her bright
+illumined pages with the broad river lying as a crystal book-mark
+between her open leaves! And how real this idea becomes to the Day
+Line tourist, with the record of Washington and Hamilton for its
+opening sentence, as he leaves the Up-Town landing, and catches
+messages from Fort Washington and Fort Lee. What Indian legends
+cluster about the brow of Indian Head blending with the love story of
+Mary Phillipse at the Manor House of Yonkers. How Irving's vision of
+Katrina and Sleepy Hollow become woven with the courage of Paulding
+and the capture of Andre at Tarrytown. How the Southern Portal of the
+Highlands stands sentineled by Stony Point, a humble crag converted by
+the courage of Anthony Wayne into a mountain peak of Liberty.
+
+How North and South Beacon again summon the Hudson yeomen from harvest
+fields to the defense of country, while Fort Putnam, still eloquent in
+her ruins, looks down upon the best drilled boys in the world at West
+Point. Further on Newburgh, Poughkeepsie and Kingston shake fraternal
+hands in the abiding trinity of Washington, Hamilton and Clinton,
+while northward rise the Ontioras where Rip Van Winkle slept, and woke
+to wonder at the happenings of twenty years.
+
+What stories of silent valleys told by murmuring streams from the
+Berkshire Hills and far away fields where Stark and Ethan Allen
+triumphed. What tales of Cooper, where the Mohawk entwines her fingers
+with those of the Susquehanna, and poems of Longfellow, Bryant and
+Holmes, of Dwight, of Halleck and of Drake; ay, and of Yankee
+Doodle too, written at the Old Van Rensselaer House almost within a
+pebble-throw of the steamer as it approaches Albany. What a wonderful
+book of history and beauty, all to be read in one day's journey!
+
+       * * *
+
+    Roll on! Roll on!
+  Thou river of the North! Tell thou to all
+  The isles, tell thou to all the Continents
+  The grandeur of my land.
+
+  _William Wallace._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Hudson has often been styled "The Rhine of America." There is,
+however, little of similarity and much of contrast. The Rhine from
+Dusseldorf to Manheim is only twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet
+in breadth. The Hudson from New York to Albany averages more than five
+thousand feet from bank to bank. At Tappan Zee the Hudson is ten times
+as wide as the Rhine at any point above Cologne. At Bonn the Rhine is
+barely one-third of a mile, whereas the Hudson at Haverstraw Bay is
+over four miles in width. The average breadth of the Hudson from New
+York to Poughkeepsie is almost eight thousand feet.
+
+The mountains of the Rhine also lack the imposing character of
+the Highlands. The far-famed Drachenfels, the Landskron, and the
+Stenzleburg are only seven hundred and fifty feet above the river;
+the Alteberg eight hundred, the Rosenau nine hundred, and the great
+Oelberg thirteen hundred and sixty-two. According to the latest United
+States Geological Survey the entire group of mountains at the northern
+gate of the Highlands is from fourteen hundred to sixteen hundred and
+twenty-five feet in height, not to speak of the Catskills from three
+thousand to almost four thousand feet in altitude.
+
+It is not the fault of the Rhine with its nine hundred miles of
+rapid flow that it looks tame compared with the Hudson. Even the
+Mississippi, draining a valley three thousand miles in extent, looks
+insignificant at St. Louis or New Orleans contrasted with the Hudson
+at Tarrytown. The Hudson is in fact a vast estuary of the sea; the
+tide rises two feet at Albany and six inches at Troy. A professor of
+the Berlin University says: "You lack our castles but the Hudson is
+infinitely grander." Thackeray, in "The Virginians," gives the Hudson
+the verdict of beauty; and George William Curtis, comparing the Hudson
+with the rivers of the Old World, has gracefully said: "The Danube
+has in part glimpses of such grandeur, the Elbe has sometimes such
+delicately penciled effects, but no European river is so lordly in its
+bearing, none flows in such state to the sea."
+
+       * * *
+
+    I have been up and down the Hudson by water. The entire river is
+    pretty, but the glory of the Hudson is at West Point.
+
+    _Anthony Trollope._
+
+       * * *
+
+Baedeker, a high and just authority, in his recent Guide to the United
+States says: "The Hudson has sometimes been called the American Rhine,
+but that title perhaps does injustice to both rivers. The Hudson,
+through a great part of its extent, is three or four times as wide
+as the Rhine, and its scenery is grander and more inspiring; while,
+though it lacks the ruined castles and ancient towns of the German
+river, it is by no means devoid of historical associations of a more
+recent character. The vine-clad slopes of the Rhine have, too, no
+ineffective substitute in the brilliant autumn coloring of the
+timbered hillsides of the Hudson."
+
+       * * *
+
+  A stately stream around which as around
+  The German Rhine hover mystic shapes
+
+  _Richard Burton_
+
+       * * *
+
+What must have been the sensation of those early voyagers, coasting a
+new continent, as they halted at the noble gateway of the river and
+gazed northward along the green fringed Palisades; or of Hendrick
+Hudson, who first traversed its waters from Manhattan to the Mohawk,
+as he looked up from the chubby bow of his "Half Moon" at the massive
+columnar formation of the Palisades or at the great mountains of the
+Highlands; what dreams of success, apparently within reach, were his,
+when night came down in those deep forest solitudes under the shadowy
+base of Old Cro' Nest and Klinkerberg Mountain, where his little craft
+seemed a lone cradle of civilization; and then, when at last, with
+immediate purpose foiled, he turned his boat southward, having
+discovered, but without knowing it, something infinitely more valuable
+to future history than his long-sought "Northwestern Passage to
+China," how he must have gazed with blended wonder and awe at the
+distant Catskills as their sharp lines came out, as we have seen
+them many a September morning, bold and clear along the horizon, and
+learned in gentle reveries the poetic meaning of the blue _Ontioras_
+or "Mountains of the Sky." How fondly he must have gazed on the
+picturesque hills above Apokeepsing and listened to the murmuring
+music of Winnikee Creek, when the air was clear as crystal and the
+banks seemed to be brought nearer, perfectly reflected in the glassy
+surface, while here and there his eye wandered over grassy uplands,
+and rested on hills of maize in shock, looking for all the world like
+mimic encampments of Indian wigwams! Then as October came with tints
+which no European eye had ever seen, and sprinkled the hill-tops
+with gold and russet, he must indeed have felt that he was living an
+enchanted life, or journeying in a fairy land!
+
+How graphically the poet Willis has put the picture in musical prose:
+"Fancy the bold Englishman, as the Dutch called Hendrick Hudson,
+steering his little yacht the 'Haalve Maan,' for the first time
+through the Highlands. Imagine his anxiety for the channel forgotten,
+as he gazed up at the towering rocks, and round the green shores, and
+onward past point and opening bend, miles away into the heart of the
+country; yet with no lessening of the glorious stream before him and
+no decrease of promise in the bold and luxuriant shores. Picture him
+lying at anchor below Newburgh with the dark pass of the Wey-Gat
+frowning behind him, the lofty and blue Catskills beyond, and the
+hillsides around covered with lords of the soil exhibiting only less
+wonder than friendliness."
+
+If Willis forgot the season of the year and left out the landscape
+glow which the voyager saw, Talmage completed the picture in a rainbow
+paragraph of color: "Along our river and up and down the sides of the
+great hills there was an indescribable mingling of gold, and orange
+and crimson and saffron, now sobering into drab and maroon, now
+flaring up into solferino and scarlet. Here and there the trees looked
+as if their tips had blossomed into fire. In the morning light the
+forests seemed as if they had been transfigured and in the evening
+hours they looked as if the sunset had burst and dropped upon the
+leaves. It seemed as if the sea of divine glory had dashed its surf to
+the top of the crags and it had come dripping down to the lowest leaf
+and deepest cavern."
+
+       * * *
+
+  So fair yon haven clasped its isles, in such a sunset gleam,
+  When Hendrick and his sea-worn tars first sounded up the stream.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+On such a day in 1883 it was the privilege of the writer to stand
+before 150,000 people at Newburgh on the occasion of the Centennial
+Celebration of the Disbanding of the Army under Washington, and, in
+his poem entitled "The Long Drama," to portray the great mountain
+background bounding the southern horizon with autumnal splendor:
+
+  October lifts with colors bright
+    Her mountain canvas to the sky,
+  The crimson trees aglow with light
+    Unto our banners wave reply.
+
+  Like Horeb's bush the leaves repeat
+    From lips of flame with glory crowned:--
+  "Put off thy shoes from off thy feet,
+    The place they trod is holy ground."
+
+Such was the vision Hendrick Hudson must have had in those far-off
+September and October days, and such the picture which visitors still
+compass long distances to behold.
+
+"It is a far cry to Loch Awe" says an old Scottish proverb, and it
+is a long step from the sleepy rail of the "Half Moon" to the
+roomy-decked floating palaces--the "Hendrick Hudson," the "New York"
+and the "Albany." Before beginning our journey let us, therefore,
+bridge the distance with a few intermediate facts, from 1609, relating
+to the discovery of the river, its early settlement, its old reaches
+and other points essential to the fullest enjoyment of our trip, which
+in sailor-parlance might be styled "a gang-plank of history," reaching
+as it does from the old-time yacht to the modern steamer, and spanning
+three hundred years.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The prow of the "Half-Moon" has left a broadening wake whose
+    ripples have written an indelible history, not only along the
+    Hudson's shores, but have left their imprint on kingdoms over the
+    sea.
+
+    _William Wait._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Its Discovery.=--In the year 1524, thirty-two years after the
+discovery of America, the navigator Verrazano, a French officer,
+anchored off the island of Manhattan and proceeded a short distance up
+the river. The following year, Gomez, a Portuguese in the employ of
+Spain, coasted along the continent and entered the Narrows. Several
+sea-rovers also visited our noble bay about 1598, but it was reserved
+for Hendrick Hudson, with a mixed crew of eighteen or twenty men in
+the "Half Moon," to explore the river from Sandy Hook to Albany, and
+carry back to Europe a description of its beauty. He had previously
+made two fruitless voyages for the Muscovy Company--an English
+corporation--in quest of a passage to China, _via_ the North Pole and
+Nova Zembla.
+
+In the autumn of 1608 he was called to Amsterdam, and sailed from
+Texel, April 5, 1609, in the service of the Dutch East India Company.
+Reaching Greenland he coasted southward, arriving at Cape Cod August
+6th, Chesapeake Bay August 28th, and then sailed north to Sandy Hook.
+He entered the Bay of New York September the 3d, passed through the
+Narrows, and anchored in what is now called Newark Bay; on the 12th
+resumed his voyage, and, drifting with the tide, remained over night
+on the 13th about three miles above the northern end of Manhattan
+Island; on the 14th sailed through what is now known as Tappan Zee and
+Haverstraw Bay, entered the Highlands and anchored for the night near
+the present dock of West Point. On the morning of the 15th beheld
+Newburgh Bay, reached Catskill on the 16th, Athens on the 17th,
+Castleton and Albany on the 18th, and sent out an exploring boat as
+far as Waterford. He became thoroughly satisfied that this route did
+not lead to China--a conclusion in harmony with that of Champlain,
+who, the same summer, had been making his way south, through Lake
+Champlain and Lake George, in quest of the South Sea.
+
+       * * *
+
+    O mighty river of the North! Thy lips meet ocean here, and in deep
+    joy he lifts his great white brow, and gives his stormy voice a
+    milder tone.
+
+    _William Wallace_
+
+       * * *
+
+There is something humorous in the idea of these old mariners
+attempting to sail through a continent 3,000 miles wide, seamed with
+mountain chains from 2,000 to 15,000 feet in height. Hudson's return
+voyage began September 23d. He anchored again in Newburgh Bay the
+25th, arrived at Stony Point October 1st, reached Sandy Hook the 4th,
+and returned to Europe.
+
+=First Description of the Hudson.=--The official record of the voyage
+was kept by Robert Juet, mate of the "Half Moon," and his journal
+abounds with graphic and pleasing incidents as to the people and their
+customs. At the Narrows the Indians visited the vessel, "clothed in
+mantles of feathers and robes of fur, the women clothed in hemp; red
+copper tobacco pipes, and other things of copper, they did wear about
+their necks." At Yonkers they came on board in great numbers. Two were
+detained and dressed in red coats, but they sprang overboard and swam
+away. At Catskill they found "a very loving people, and very old men.
+They brought to the ship Indian corn, pumpkins and tobaccos." Near
+Schodack the "Master's mate went on land with an old savage, governor
+of the country, who carried him to his house and made him good
+cheere." "I sailed to the shore," he writes, "in one of their canoes,
+with an old man, who was chief of a tribe, consisting of forty men and
+seventeen women. These I saw there in a house well constructed of oak
+bark, and circular in shape, so that it has the appearance of being
+built with an arched roof. It contained a large quantity of corn and
+beans of last year's growth, and there lay near the house, for the
+purpose of drying, enough to load three ships, besides what was
+growing in the fields. On our coming to the house two mats were spread
+out to sit upon, and some food was immediately served in well-made
+wooden bowls."
+
+"Two men were also dispatched at once, with bows and arrows in quest
+of game, who soon brought in a pair of pigeons, which they had shot.
+They likewise killed a fat dog, (probably a black bear), and skinned
+it in great haste, with shells which they had got out of the water."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Down whose waterways the wings of poetry and romance like magic
+    sails bear the awakened souls of men.
+
+    _Richard Burton._
+
+       * * *
+
+The well-known hospitality of the Hudson River valley has, therefore,
+"high antiquity" in this record of the garrulous writer. At Albany the
+Indians flocked to the vessel, and Hudson determined to try the chiefs
+to see "whether they had any treachery in them." "So they took them
+down into the cabin, and gave them so much wine and _aqua vitae_ that
+they were all merry. In the end one of them was drunk, and they could
+not tell how to take it." The old chief, who took the _aqua vitae_,
+was so grateful when he awoke the next day, that he showed them all
+the country, and gave them venison.
+
+Passing down through the Highlands the "Half Moon" was becalmed near
+Stony Point and the "people of the Mountains" came on board and
+marvelled at the ship and its equipment. One canoe kept hanging under
+the stern and an Indian pilfered a pillow and two shirts from the
+cabin windows. The mate shot him in the breast and killed him. A boat
+was lowered to recover the articles "when one of them in the water
+seized hold of it to overthrow it, but the cook seized a sword and cut
+off one of his hands and he was drowned." At the head of Manhattan
+Island the vessel was again attacked. Arrows were shot and two more
+Indians were killed, then the attack was renewed and two more were
+slain.
+
+It might also be stated that soon after the arrival of Hendrick Hudson
+at the mouth of the river one of the English soldiers, John Coleman,
+was killed by an arrow shot in the throat. "He was buried," according
+to Ruttenber, "upon the adjacent beach, the first European victim of
+an Indian weapon on the Mahicanituk. Coleman's point is the monument
+to this occurrence."
+
+The "Half Moon" never returned and it will be remembered that Hudson
+never again saw the river that he discovered. He was to leave his name
+however as a monument to further adventure and hardihood in Hudson's
+Bay, where he was cruelly set adrift by a mutinous crew in a little
+boat to perish in the midsummer of 1611.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The sea just peering the headlands through
+  Where the sky is lost in deeper blue.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Names of the Hudson.=--The Iroquois called the river the "Cohatatea."
+The Mahicans and Lenapes the "Mahicanituk," or "the ever-flowing
+waters." Verrazano in 1524 styled it Rio de Montaigne. Gomez in 1525
+Rio San Antonio. Hudson styled it the "Manhattes" from the tribe at
+its mouth. The Dutch named it the "Mauritius," in 1611, in honor of
+Prince Maurice of Nassau, and afterwards "the Great River." It has
+also been referred to as the "Shatemuck" in verse. It was called
+"Hudson's River" not by the Dutch, as generally stated, but by the
+English, as Hudson was an Englishman, although he sailed from a Dutch
+port, with a Dutch crew, and a Dutch vessel. It was also called the
+"North River," to distinguish it from the Delaware, the South River.
+It is still frequently so styled, and the East River almost "boxes the
+compass" as applied to Long Island Sound.
+
+=Height of Hills and Mountains.=--It is interesting to hear the
+opinions of different people journeying up and down the Hudson as to
+the height of mountains along the river. The Palisades are almost
+always under-estimated, probably on account of their distance from
+the steamer. It is only when we consider the size of a house at their
+base, or the mast of a sloop anchored near the shore, that we can
+fairly judge of their magnitude. Various guides, put together in a day
+or a month, by writers who have made a single journey, or by persons
+who have never consulted an authority, have gone on multiplying
+blunder upon blunder, but the United States Geological Survey
+furnishes reliable information. According to their maps the Palisades
+are from 300 to 500 feet in height, the Highlands from 785 to 1625,
+and the Catskills from 3000 to 3885 feet.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beneath the cliffs the river steals
+    In darksome eddies to the shore,
+  But midway every sail reveals
+    Reflected on its crystal floor.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+        THE PALISADES.
+
+    At Fort Lee                     300 feet.
+    Opposite Mt. St. Vincent        400  "
+    Opposite Hastings               500  "
+
+
+        THE HIGHLANDS.
+
+    Sugar Loaf                      785 feet.
+    Dunderberg                      865  "
+    Anthony's Nose                  900  "
+    Storm King                     1368  "
+    Old Cro' Nest                  1405  "
+    Bull Hill                      1425  "
+    South Beacon                   1625  "
+
+
+        THE CATSKILLS.
+
+    North Mountain                 3000 feet.
+    Plaaterkill                    3135  "
+    Outlook                        3150  "
+    Stoppel Point                  3426  "
+    Round Top                      3470  "
+    High Peak                      3660  "
+    Sugar Loaf                     3782  "
+    Plateau                        3855  "
+
+=Sources of the Hudson.=--The Hudson rises in the Adirondacks, and
+is formed by two short branches. The northern branch (17 miles in
+length), has its source in Indian Pass, at the base of Mount McIntyre;
+the eastern branch, in a little lake poetically called the "Tear of
+the Clouds," 4,321 feet above the sea under the summit of Tahawus,
+the noblest mountain of the Adirondacks, 5,344 feet in height. About
+thirty miles below the junction it takes the waters of Boreas River,
+and in the southern part of Warren County, nine miles east of Lake
+George, the tribute of the Schroon. About fifteen miles north of
+Saratoga it receives the waters of the Sacandaga, then the streams of
+the Battenkill and the Walloomsac; and a short distance above Troy its
+largest tributary, the Mohawk. The tide rises six inches at Troy and
+two feet at Albany, and from Troy to New York, a distance of one
+hundred and fifty miles, the river is navigable by large steamboats.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Of grottoes in the far dim woods,
+    Of pools moss-rimmed and deep,
+  From whose embrace the little rills
+    In daring venture creep.
+
+  _E.A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+The principal streams which flow into the Hudson between Albany and
+New York are the Norman's Kill, on west bank, two miles south of
+Albany; the Mourdener's Kill, at Castleton, eight miles below Albany,
+on the east bank; Coxsackie Creek, on west bank, seventeen miles below
+Albany; Kinderhook Creek, six miles north of Hudson; Catskill Creek,
+six miles south of Hudson; Roeliffe Jansen's Creek, on east bank,
+seven miles south of Hudson; the Esopus Creek, which empties at
+Saugerties; the Rondout Creek, at Rondout; the Wappingers, at New
+Hamburgh; the Fishkill, at Matteawan, opposite Newburgh; the Peekskill
+Creek, and Croton River. The course of the river is nearly north and
+south, and drains a comparatively narrow valley.
+
+It is emphatically the "River of the Mountains," as it rises in the
+Adirondacks, flows seaward east of the Helderbergs, the Catskills, the
+Shawangunks, through twenty miles of the Highlands and along the base
+of the Palisades. More than any other river it preserves the character
+of its origin, and the following apostrophe from the writer's poem,
+"The Hudson," condenses its continuous "mountain-and-lake-like"
+quality:
+
+  O Hudson, mountain-born and free,
+    Thy youth a deep impression takes,
+  For, mountain-guarded to the sea,
+    Thy course is but a chain of lakes.
+
+=The First Settlement of the Hudson.=--In 1610 a Dutch ship visited
+Manhattan to trade with the Indians and was soon followed by others
+on like enterprise. In 1613 Adrian Block came with a few comrades and
+remained the winter. In 1614 the merchants of North Holland organized
+a company and obtained from the States General a charter to trade in
+the New Netherlands, and soon after a colony built a few houses and
+a fort near the Battery. The entire island was purchased from the
+Indians in 1624 for the sum of sixty guilders or about twenty-four
+dollars. A fort was built at Albany in 1623 and known as Fort Aurania
+or Fort Orange. From Wassenaer's "Historie van Europa," 1621-1632, as
+translated in the 3d volume of the Documentary History of New York, a
+castle--Fort Nassau--was built in 1624, on an island on the north side
+of the River Montagne, now called Mauritius. "But as the natives there
+were somewhat discontented, and not easily managed, the projectors
+abandoned it, intending now to plant a colony among the Maikans
+(Mahicans), a nation lying twenty-five miles (American measure
+seventy-five miles) on both sides of the river, upwards." In another
+document we learn that "The West India Company being chartered, a
+vessel of 130 lasts, called the 'New Netherland' (whereof Cornelius
+Jacobs, of Hoorn, was skipper), with thirty families, mostly Walloons,
+was equipped in the spring of 1623."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where Manhattan reigned of old
+  Long before the age of gold
+  In the fair encircled isle
+  Formed for beauty's warmest smile.
+
+  _William Crow_
+
+       * * *
+
+In the beginning of May they entered the Hudson, found a "Frenchman"
+lying in the mouth of the river, who would erect the arms of the King
+of France there, but the Hollanders would not permit him, opposing it
+by commission from the Lord's States General and the Directors of the
+West India Company, and "in order not to be frustrated therein, they
+convoyed the Frenchman out of the rivers." This having been done, they
+sailed up the Maikans, 140 miles, near which they built and completed
+a fort, named "Orange," with four bastions, on an island, by them
+called "Castle Island." This was probably the island below Castleton,
+now known as Baern Island, where the first white child was born on the
+Hudson.
+
+In another volume we read that "a colony was planted in 1625 on
+the Manhetes Island, where a fort was staked out by Master Kryn
+Fredericke, an engineer. The counting-house is kept in a stone
+building thatched with reed; the other houses are of the bark of
+trees. There are thirty ordinary houses on the east side of the river,
+which runs nearly north and south." This is the description of New
+York City when Charles the First was King.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Behold the natural advantages of our State; the situation
+    of our principal seaport; the facility that the
+    Sound affords for an intercourse with the East, and the
+    noble Hudson which bears upon its bosom the wealth
+    of the remotest part of the State.
+
+    _Robert R. Livingston._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+[Illustration: OLOFFE VAN KORTLANDT'S DREAM.]
+
+Moreover, we should not forget that Communipaw outranks New York in
+antiquity, and, according to Knickerbocker, whose quiet humor is
+always read and re-read with pleasure, might justly be considered the
+Mother Colony. For lo! the sage Oloffe Van Kortlandt dreamed a dream,
+and the good St. Nicholas came riding over the tops of the trees,
+and descended upon the island of Manhattan and sat himself down
+and smoked, "and the smoke ascended in the sky, and formed a cloud
+overhead; and Oloffe bethought him, and he hastened and climbed up to
+the top of one of the tallest trees, and saw that the smoke spread
+over a great extent of country; and, as he considered it more
+attentively, he fancied that the great volume assumed a variety of
+marvelous forms, where, in dim obscurity, he saw shadowed out palaces
+and domes and lofty spires, all of which lasted but a moment, and then
+passed away." So New York, like Alba Longa and Rome, and other cities
+of antiquity, was under the immediate care of its tutelar saint. Its
+destiny was foreshadowed, for now the palaces and domes and lofty
+spires are real and genuine, and something more than dreams are made
+of.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Below the cliffs Manhattan's spires
+    Glint back the sunset's latest beam;
+  The bay is flecked with twinkling fires;
+    Or is it but "Van Kortlandt's dream?"
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Original Manors and Patents.=--According to a map of the Province
+of New York, published in 1779, the Phillipsburg Patent embraced a
+large part of Westchester County. North of this was the Manor of
+Cortland, reaching from Tarrytown to Anthony's Nose. Above this
+was the Phillipse Patent, reaching to the mouth of Fishkill Creek,
+embracing Putnam County. Between Fishkill Creek and the Wappingers
+Creek was the Rombout Patent. The Schuyler Patent embraced a few
+square miles in the vicinity of Poughkeepsie. Above this was the
+purchase of Falconer & Company, and east of this tract what was known
+as the Great Nine Partners. Above the Falconer Purchase was the Henry
+Beekman Patent, reaching to Esopus Island, and east of this the Little
+Nine Partners. Above the Beekman Patent was the Schuyler Patent. Then
+the Manor of Livingston, reaching from Rhinebeck to Catskill Station,
+opposite Catskill. Above this Rensselaerwick, reaching north to a
+point opposite Coeymans. The Manor of Rensselaer extended on both
+sides of the river to a line running nearly east and west, just above
+Troy. North and west of this Manor was the County of Albany, since
+divided into Rensselaer, Saratoga, Washington, Schoharie, Greene and
+Albany. The Rensselaer Manor was the only one that reached across the
+river. The west bank of the Hudson, below the Rensselaer Manor, is
+simply indicated on this map of 1779 as Ulster and Orange Counties.
+
+=New Amsterdam.=--For about fifty years after the Dutch Settlement the
+island of Manhattan was known as New Amsterdam. Washington Irving, in
+his Knickerbocker History, has surrounded it with a loving halo and
+thereby given to the early records of New York the most picturesque
+background of any State in the Union.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The city bright below, and far away
+  Sparkling in golden light his own romantic Bay.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+Among other playful allusions to the Indian names he takes the word
+Manna-hatta of Robert Juet to mean "the island of manna," or in other
+words a land flowing with milk and honey. He refers humorously to the
+Yankees as "an ingenious people who out-bargain them in the market,
+out-speculate them on the exchange, out-top them in fortune, and run
+up mushroom palaces so high that the tallest Dutch family mansion has
+not wind enough left for its weather-cock."
+
+What would the old burgomaster think now of the mounting palaces of
+trade, stately apartments, and the piled up stories of commercial
+buildings? In fact the highest structure Washington Irving ever saw in
+New York was a nine-story sugar refinery. With elevators running two
+hundred feet a minute, there seems no limit to these modern mammoths.
+
+=The Dutch and the English.=--From the very beginning there was a
+quiet jealousy between the Dutch Settlement on the Hudson and the
+English Settlers in Massachusetts. To quote from an old English
+history, "it was the original purpose of the Pilgrims to locate near
+Nova Scotia, but, upon better consideration, they decided to seat
+themselves more to the southward on the bank of Hudson's River which
+falls into the sea at New York."
+
+To this end "they contracted with some merchants who were willing
+to be adventurers with them in their intended settlement and were
+proprietors of the country, but the contract bore too heavy upon them,
+and made them the more easy in their disappointment. Their agents in
+England hired the Mayflower, and, after a stormy voyage, 'fell in with
+Cape Cod on the 9th of November. Here they refreshed themselves about
+half a day and then tacked about to the southward for Hudson's River.'
+
+"Encountering a storm they became entangled in dangerous shoals and
+breakers and were driven back again to the Cape." Thus Plymouth became
+the first English settlement of New England. Another historian says
+that it was their purpose "to settle on the Connecticut Coast near
+Fairfield County, lying between the Connecticut and Hudson's River."
+
+       * * *
+
+          Before his sight
+  Flowed the fair river free and bright,
+  The rising mist and Isles of Bay,
+  Before him in their glory lay.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+From the very first the Dutch occupation was considered by the English
+as illegal. It was undoubtedly part of the country the coasts of which
+were first viewed by Sebastian Cabot, who sailed with five English
+ships from Bristol in May, 1498, and as such was afterwards included
+in the original province of Virginia. It was also within the limits of
+the country granted by King James to the Western Company, but, before
+it could be settled, the Dutch occupancy took place, and, in the
+interest of peace, a license was granted by King James.
+
+The Dutch thus made their settlement before the Puritans were planted
+in New England, and from their first coming, "being seated in Islands
+and at the mouth of a good river their plantations were in a thriving
+condition, and they begun, in Holland, to promise themselves vast
+things from their new colony."
+
+Sir Samuel Argal in 1617 or 1618, on his way from Virginia to New
+Scotland, insulted the Dutch and destroyed their plantations. "To
+guard against further molestations they secured a License from
+King James to build Cottages and to plant for traffic as well as
+subsistence, pretending it was only for the conveniency of their ships
+touching there for fresh water and fresh provisions in their voyage
+to Brazil; but they little by little extended their limits every way,
+built Towns, fortified them and became a flourishing colony."
+
+"In an island called Manhattan, at the mouth of Hudson's River, they
+built a City which they called New Amsterdam, and the river was called
+by them the Great River. The bay to the east of it had the name of
+Nassau given to it. About one hundred and fifty miles up the River
+they built a Fort which they called Orange Fort and from thence drove
+a profitable trade with the Indians who came overland as far as from
+Quebec to deal with them."
+
+The Dutch Colonies were therefore in a very thriving condition when
+they were attacked by the English. The justice of this war has been
+freely criticised even by English writers, "because troops were sent
+to attack New Amsterdam before the Colony had any notice of the war."
+
+       * * *
+
+                      On his view
+  Ocean, and earth, and heaven burst before him,
+    Clouds slumbering at his feet and the clear blue
+  Of summer's sky in beauty bending o'er him.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+The "Encyclopædia Britannica" thus briefly puts the history of those
+far-off days when New York was a town of about 1500 inhabitants: "The
+English Government was hostile to any other occupation of the New
+World than its own. In 1621 James I. claimed sovereignty over New
+Netherland by right of 'occupancy.' In 1632 Charles I. reasserted the
+English title of 'first discovery, occupation and possession.' In 1654
+Cromwell ordered an expedition for its conquest and the New England
+Colonies had engaged their support. The treaty with Holland arrested
+their operations and recognized the title of the Dutch. In 1664
+Charles the Second resolved upon a conquest of New Netherland. The
+immediate excuse was the loss to the revenue of the English Colonies
+by the smuggling practices of their Dutch neighbors. A patent was
+granted to the Duke of York giving to him all the lands and rivers
+from the west side of the Connecticut River to the east side of
+Delaware Bay."
+
+"On the 29th of August an English Squadron under the direction of Col.
+Richard Nicolls, the Duke's Deputy Governor, appeared off the Narrows,
+and on Sept. 8th New Amsterdam, defenseless against the force, was
+formally surrendered by Stuyvesant. In 1673 (August 7th) war being
+declared between England and Holland a Dutch squadron surprised New
+York, captured the City and restored the Dutch authority, and the
+names of New Netherland and New Amsterdam. But in July, 1674, a treaty
+of peace restored New York to English rule. A new patent was issued to
+the Duke of York, and Major Edmund Andros was appointed Governor."
+
+=New York.=--On the 10th of November, 1674, the Province of New
+Netherland was surrendered to Governor Major Edmund Andros on behalf
+of his Britannic Majesty. The letter sent by Governor Andros to the
+Dutch Governor is interesting in this connection: "Being arrived
+to this place with orders to receive from you in the behalf of his
+Majesty of Great Britain, pursuant to the late articles of peace with
+the States Generals of the United Netherlands, the New Netherlands and
+Dependencies, now under your command, I have herewith, by Capt. Philip
+Carterett and Ens. Cæsar Knafton, sent you the respective orders from
+the said States General, the States of Zealand and Admirality of
+Amsterdam to that effect, and desire you'll please to appoint some
+short time for it. Our soldiers having been long aboard, I pray you
+answer by these gentlemen, and I shall be ready to serve you in what
+may lay in my power. Being from aboard his Majesty's ship, 'The
+Diamond,' at anchor near. Your very humble servant. Staten Island this
+22d Oct., 1674." After nineteen days' deliberation, which greatly
+annoyed Governor Andros, New Amsterdam was transferred from Dutch to
+English authority.
+
+       * * *
+
+  All white with sails thy keel-thronged waters flee
+  Through one rich lapse of plenty to the sea.
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+"In 1683 Thomas Dongan succeeded Andros. A general Assembly, the first
+under the English rule, met in October, 1683, and adopted a Charter
+of Liberties, which was confirmed by the Duke. In August, 1684, a new
+covenant was made with the Iroquois, who formally acknowledged the
+jurisdiction of Great Britain, but not subjection. By the accession of
+the Duke of York to the English throne the Duchy of New York became a
+royal province. The Charters of the New England Colonies were revoked,
+and together with New York and New Jersey they were consolidated into
+the dominion of New England. Dongan was recalled and Sir Edmund Andros
+was commissioned Governor General. He assumed his vice regal authority
+August 11, 1688. The Assembly which James had abolished in 1686 was
+reestablished, and in May declared the rights and privileges of
+the people, reaffirming the principles of the repealed Charter of
+Liberties of October 30, 1683."
+
+       * * *
+
+  "Queen of all lovely rivers, lustrous queen
+  Of flowing waters in our sweet new lands,
+  Rippling through sunlight to the ocean sands."
+
+  _Anonymous._
+
+       * * *
+
+From this time on to the Revolution of 1776 there is one continual
+struggle between the Royal Governors and the General Assembly. The
+Governor General had the power of dissolving the Assembly, but
+the Assembly had the power of granting money. British troops were
+quartered in New York which increased the irritation. The conquest of
+Canada left a heavy burden upon Great Britain, a part of which their
+Parliament attempted to shift to the shoulders of the Colonies.
+
+A general Congress of the Colonies, held in New York in 1765,
+protested against the Stamp Act and other oppressive ordinances and
+they were in part repealed.
+
+=A Page of Patriotism.=--During the long political agitation New York,
+the most English of the Colonies in her manners and feelings, was in
+close harmony with the Whig leaders of England. She firmly adhered to
+the principle of the sovereignty of the people which she had inscribed
+on her ancient "Charter of Liberties." Although largely dependent upon
+commerce she was the first to recommend a non-importation of English
+merchandise as a measure of retaliation against Britain, and she was
+the first also to invite a general congress of all the Colonies.
+On the breaking out of hostilities New York immediately joined the
+patriot cause. The English authority was overthrown and the government
+passed to a provincial congress.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The union of lakes--the union of lands--
+    The union of States none can sever--
+  The union of hearts--the union of hands--
+    And the Flag of our Union forever.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+=New York Sons of Liberty.=--In 1767, in the eighth year of the reign
+of George III. there was issued a document in straightforward Saxon,
+and Sir Henry Moore, Governor-in-Chief over the Province of New York,
+offered fifty pounds to discover the author or authors. The paper read
+as follows: "Whereas, a glorious stand for Liberty did appear in
+the Resentment shown to a Set of Miscreants under the Name of Stamp
+Masters, in the year 1765, and it is now feared that a set of Gentry
+called Commissioners (I do not mean those lately arrived at Boston),
+whose odious Business is of a similar nature, may soon make their
+appearance amongst us in order to execute their detestable office:
+It is therefore hoped that every votary of that celestial Goddess
+Liberty, will hold themselves in readiness to give them a proper
+welcome. Rouse, my Countrymen, Rouse! (Signed) _Pro Patria_."
+
+In December, 1769, a stirring address "To the Betrayed Inhabitants of
+the City and County of New York," signed by a Son of Liberty, was
+also published, asking the people to do their duty in matters pending
+between them and Britain. "Imitate," the writer said, "the noble
+examples of the friends of Liberty in England; who, rather than be
+enslaved, contend for their rights with king, lords and commons;
+and will you suffer your liberties to be torn from you by your
+Representatives? tell it not in Boston; publish it not in the streets
+of Charles-town. You have means yet left to preserve a unanimity
+with the brave Bostonians and Carolinians; and to prevent the
+accomplishment of the designs of tyrants."
+
+Another proclamation, offering a reward of fifty pounds, was
+published by the "Honorable Cadwalader Colden, Esquire, His Majesty's
+Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Province of New York
+and the territories depending thereon in America," with another "God
+Save the King" at the end of it. But the people who commenced to write
+Liberty with a capital letter and the word "king" in lower case type
+were not daunted. Captain Alexander McDougal was arrested as
+the supposed author. He was imprisoned eighty-one days. He was
+subsequently a member of the Provincial Convention, in 1775 was
+appointed Colonel of the first New York Regiment, and in 1777 rose to
+the rank of Major-General in the U. S. Army. New York City could well
+afford a monument to the Sons of Liberty. She has a right to emphasize
+this period of her history, for her citizens passed the first
+resolution to import nothing from the mother country, burned ten boxes
+of stamps sent from England before any other colony or city had made
+even a show of resistance, and when the Declaration was read, pulled
+down the leaden statue of George III. from its pedestal in Bowling
+Green, and moulded it into Republican bullets.
+
+       * * *
+
+  And not a verdant glade or mountain hoary,
+  But treasures up within the glorious story.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+In 1699 the population of New York was about 6,000. In 1800, it
+reached 60,000; and the growth since that date is almost incredible.
+It is amusing to hear elderly people speak of the "outskirts of the
+city" lying close to the City Hall, and of the drives _in the country_
+above Canal Street. In the Documentary History of New York, a map of
+a section of New York appears as it was in 1793, when the Gail, Work
+House, and Bridewell occupied the site of the City Hall, with two
+ponds to the north--East Collect Pond and Little Collect Pond,--sixty
+feet deep and about a quarter of a mile in diameter, the outlet of
+which crossed Broadway at Canal Street and found its way to the
+Hudson.
+
+=Greater New York.=--In 1830, the population of Manhattan was 202,000;
+in 1850, 515,000; in 1860, 805,000; in 1870, 942,000; in 1880,
+1,250,000; in 1892, 1,801,739; and is now rapidly approaching three
+million. Brooklyn, which in 1800 had a population of only 2,000, now
+contributes, as the "Borough of Brooklyn," almost two million. So that
+Greater New York is the centre of about six million of people within a
+radius of fifteen miles including her New Jersey suburbs with almost
+five millions under one municipality.
+
+=Brooklyn.=--In June, 1636, was bought the first land on Long Island;
+and in 1667 the Ferry Town, opposite New York, was known by the name
+"Breuckelen," signifying "broken land," but the name was not generally
+accepted until after the Revolution. Columbia Heights, Prospect Park,
+Clinton Avenue, St. Mark's Place and Stuyvesant Heights are among the
+favored spots for residence.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Behind us lies the teeming town
+    With lust of gold grown frantic;
+  Before us glitters o'er the bay
+    The peaceable Atlantic.
+
+  _Charles Mackay_
+
+       * * *
+
+=Jersey City= occupies the ground once known as Paulus Hook, the farm
+of William Kieft, Director General of the Dutch West India Company.
+Its water front, from opposite Bartholdi Statue to Hoboken, is
+conspicuously marked by Railroad Terminal Piers, Factories, Elevators,
+etc. Bergen is the oldest settlement in New Jersey. It was founded in
+1616 by Dutch Colonists to the New Netherlands, and received its name
+from Bergen in Norway. Jersey City is practically a part of Greater
+New York, but state lines make municipal union impossible.
+
+=Hudson River Steamboats.=--An accurate history of the growth and
+development of steam navigation on the Hudson, from the building of
+the "Clermont" by Robert Fulton to the building of the superb steamers
+of the Hudson River Day Line would form a very interesting book. The
+first six years produced six steamers:
+
+      Clermont, built in 1807          160 tons
+      Car of Neptune, built in 1809    295  "
+      Hope, built in 1811              280  "
+      Perseverance, built in 1811      280  "
+      Paragon, built in 1811           331  "
+      Richmond, built in 1813          370  "
+
+It makes one smile to read the newspaper notices of those days. The
+time was rather long, and the fare rather high--thirty-six hours to
+Albany, fare seven dollars.
+
+    _From the Albany Gazette, September, 1807._
+
+    "The North River Steamboat will leave Paulus Hook Ferry on Friday
+    the 4th of September, at 9 in the morning, and arrive at Albany
+    at 9 in the afternoon on Saturday. Provisions, good berths, and
+    accommodation are provided. The charge to each passenger is as
+    follows:
+
+      To Newburg        Dols. 3,     Time 14 hours.
+         Poughkeepsie     "   4,       "  17  "
+         Esopus           "   5,       "  20  "
+         Hudson           "   5½,      "  30  "
+         Albany           "   7,       "  36  "
+
+    For places apply to Wm. Vandervoort, No. 48 Courtland street, on
+    the corner of Greenwich street, September 2d, 1807."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The wind blew over the land and the waves
+    With its salt sea-breath, and a spicy balm,
+  And it seemed to cool my throbbing brain,
+    And lend my spirit its gusty calm.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+    _Extract from the New York Evening Post, October 2, 1807._
+
+    Mr. Fulton's new-invented steamboat, which is fitted up in a neat
+    style for passengers, and is intended to run from New York to
+    Albany as a packet, left here this morning with ninety passengers,
+    against a strong head wind. Notwithstanding which, it is judged
+    that she moved through the waters at the rate of six miles an
+    hour.
+
+    _Extract from the Albany Gazette, October 5th, 1807._
+
+    Friday, October 2d, 1807, the steamboat (Clermont) left New York
+    at ten o'clock a.m., against a stormy tide, very rough water, and
+    a violent gale from the north. She made a headway beyond the most
+    sanguine expectations, and without being rocked by the waves.
+
+    Arrived at Albany, October 4th, at 10 o'clock p.m., being detained
+    by being obliged to come to anchor, owing to a gale and having one
+    of her paddle wheels torn away by running foul of a sloop.
+
+       * * *
+
+  But see! the broadening river deeper flows,
+  Its tribute floods intent to reach the sea.
+
+  _Park Benjamin._
+
+       * * *
+
+The following was recently recopied in the _Poughkeepsie Eagle_, as an
+old time reminiscence:
+
+    =To Poughkeepsie from New York in Seventeen Hours.=
+
+    --The first steamboat on the Hudson River passed Poughkeepsie
+    August 17th, 1807, and in June, 1808, the owners of the boat
+    caused the following advertisement to be published in prominent
+    papers along the river:
+
+    =STEAMBOAT.=
+
+    FOR THE INFORMATION OF THE PUBLIC.
+
+    The Steamboat will leave New York for Albany every Saturday
+    afternoon exactly at 6 o'clock, and will pass:
+
+      West Point, about 4 o'clock Sunday morning.
+      Newburgh, 7 o'clock Sunday morning.
+      Poughkeepsie, 11 o'clock Sunday morning.
+      Esopus, 2 o'clock in the afternoon.
+      Red Hook, 4 o'clock in the afternoon.
+      Catskill, 7 o'clock in the afternoon.
+      Hudson, 8 o'clock in the evening.
+
+    She will leave Albany for New York every Wednesday morning exactly
+    at 8 o'clock, and pass:
+
+      Hudson, about 3 in the afternoon.
+      Esopus, 8 in the evening.
+      Poughkeepsie, 12 at night.
+      Newburgh, 4 Thursday morning.
+      West Point, 7 Thursday morning.
+
+    As the time at which the boat may arrive at the different places
+    above mentioned may vary an hour, more or less, according to the
+    advantage or disadvantage of wind and tide, those who wish to
+    come on board will see the necessity of being on the spot an hour
+    before the time. Persons wishing to come on board from any other
+    landing than these here specified can calculate the time the boat
+    will pass and be ready on her arrival. Innkeepers or boatmen who
+    bring passengers on board or take them ashore from any part of the
+    river will be allowed one shilling for each person.
+
+    PRICES OF PASSAGE--FROM NEW YORK.
+
+      To West Point               $2 30
+      To Newburgh                  3 00
+      To Poughkeepsie              3 50
+      To Esopus                    4 00
+      To Red Hook                  4 50
+      To Hudson                    5 00
+      To Albany                    7 00
+
+          FROM ALBANY.
+
+      To Hudson                   $2 00
+      To Red Hook                  3 00
+      To Esopus                    3 50
+      To Poughkeepsie              4 00
+      To Newburgh and West Point   4 50
+      To New York                  7 00
+
+    All other passengers are to pay at the rate of one dollar for
+    every twenty miles, and a half dollar for every meal they may eat.
+
+    Children from 1 to 5 years of age to pay one-third price and to
+    sleep with persons under whose care they are.
+
+    Young persons from 5 to 15 years of age to pay half price,
+    provided they sleep two in a berth, and the whole price for each
+    one who requests to occupy a whole berth.
+
+    Servants who pay two-thirds price are entitled to a berth; they
+    pay half price if they do not have a berth.
+
+    Every person paying full price is allowed sixty pounds of baggage;
+    if less than full price forty pounds. They are to pay at the rate
+    of three cents per pound for surplus baggage. Storekeepers who
+    wish to carry light and valuable merchandise can be accommodated
+    on paying three cents a pound.
+
+       * * *
+
+  By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise
+    At every turn the vision looks upon;
+  Till to our wondering and uplifted eyes
+    The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Day Line Steamers.=--As the cradle of successful steam navigation was
+rocked on the Hudson, it is fitting that the Day Line Steamers should
+excel all others in beauty, grace and speed. There is no comparison
+between these river palaces and the steamboats on the Rhine or any
+river in Europe, as to equipment, comfort and rapidity. To make
+another reference to the great tourist route of Europe, the distance
+from Cologne to Coblenz is 60 miles, the same as from New York to
+Newburgh. It takes the Rhine steamers from seven to eight hours (as
+will be seen in Baedeker's Guide to that river) going up the stream,
+and from four and a half to five hours returning with the current. The
+Hudson by Daylight steamers en route to Albany make the run from New
+York to Newburgh in three hours; to Poughkeepsie in four hours, making
+stops at Yonkers, West Point and Newburgh. Probably no train on the
+best equipped railroad in our country reaches its stations with
+greater regularity than these steamers make their various landing.
+It astonishes a Mississippi or Missouri traveler to see the captain
+standing like a train-conductor, with watch in hand, to let off the
+gang-plank and pull the bell, at the very moment of the advertised
+schedule.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Southward the river gleams--a snowy sail
+    Now gliding o'er the mirror--now a track
+  Tossing with foam displaying on its course
+    The graceful steamer with its flag of smoke.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+One of the most humorous incidents of the writer's journeying up and
+down the Hudson, was the "John-Gilpin-experience" of a western man who
+got off at West Point a few years ago. It was at that time the first
+landing of the steamer after leaving New York.
+
+As he was accustomed to the Mississippi style of waiting at the
+various towns he thought he would go up and take a look at the "hill."
+The boat was off and "so was he"; with wife and children shaking their
+hands and handkerchiefs in an excited manner from the gang-plank. Some
+one at the stern of the steamer shouted to him to cross the river and
+take the train to Poughkeepsie.
+
+Every one was on the lookout for him at the Poughkeepsie landing, and,
+just as the steamer was leaving the dock, he came dashing down Main
+street from the railroad station, but too late. Then not only wife
+and children but the entire boat saluted him and the crowded
+deck blossomed with handkerchiefs. Some one shouted "catch us at
+Rhinebeck." After leaving Rhinebeck the train appeared, and on passing
+the steamer, a lone handkerchief waved from the rear of the platform.
+At Hudson an excited but slightly disorganized gentleman appeared
+to the great delight of his family, and every one else, for the
+passengers had all taken a lively interest in the chase. "Well," he
+says, "I declare, the way this boat lands, and gets off again, beats
+anything I ever see, and I have lived on the Mississippi nigh on to a
+quarter of a century."
+
+       * * *
+
+    While drinking in the scene, my mind goes back upon
+    the tide of years, and lo, a vision! On its upward
+    path the "Half-Moon" glides.
+
+    _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The "Hendrick Hudson."= In these centennial days of discovery
+and invention, a description of the steamers will be of interest,
+furnished by the Hudson River Day Line. The "Hendrick Hudson" was
+built at Newburgh by the Marvel Company, under contract with the W.
+& A. Fletcher Company of New York, who built her engines, and under
+designs from Frank E. Kirby. Her principal dimensions are: length, 400
+feet; breadth over all, 82 feet; depth of hold, 14 feet 5 inches, and
+a draft of 7 feet 6 inches. Her propelling machinery is what is
+known as the 3-cylinder compound direct acting engine, and her power
+(6,500-horse) is applied through side wheels with feathering buckets,
+and steam is supplied from eight boilers.
+
+Steel has been used in her construction to such an extent that her
+hull, her bulk-heads (7 in all), her engine and boiler enclosures, her
+kitchen and ventilators, her stanchions, girders, and deck beams, and
+in fact the whole essential frame work of the boat is like a great
+steel building. Where wood is used it is hard wood, and in finish
+probably has no equal in marine work.
+
+Her scheme of decoration, ventilation and sanitation is as artistic
+and scientific as modern methods can produce, and at the same time
+her general lay out for practical and comfortable operation is the
+evolution of the long number of years in which the Day Line has been
+conducting the passenger business.
+
+A detailed account of this steamer would be a long story, but some of
+the salient features are as follows: She carries the largest passenger
+license ever issued, namely: for 5,000 people; on her trial trip she
+made the fastest record through the water of any inland passenger ship
+in this country, namely: 23.1 miles per hour. Her shafts are under the
+main deck. Her mural paintings represent prominent features of the
+Hudson, which may not be well seen from the steamer. Her equipment far
+exceeds the requirements of the Government Inspection Laws.
+
+       * * *
+
+  We hear the murmur of the sea,--
+    A monotone of sadness,
+  But not a whisper of the crowd,
+    Or echo of its madness.
+
+  _Charles Mackay._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The "New York."= The hull of the "New York" was built at Wilmington,
+Del., by the Harlan & Hollingsworth Co., in 1887, and is, with the
+exception of the deck-frame, made of iron throughout. During the
+winter of 1897 she was lengthened 30 feet, and now measures 341 feet
+in length, breadth over all 74 feet, with a tonnage of 1975 gross
+tons. The engine was built by the W. & A. Fletcher Co. of New York.
+It is a standard American beam engine, with a cylinder 75 inches in
+diameter and 12 feet stroke of piston, and develops 3,850 horse power.
+Steam steering gear is used. One of the most admirable features of
+this queen of river steamers is her "feathering" wheels, the use of
+which not only adds materially to her speed but does away with the
+jar or tremor common to boats having the ordinary paddle-wheels. The
+exterior of the "New York" is, as usual, of pine, painted white and
+relieved with tints and gold. The interior is finished in hard-wood
+cabinet work, ash being used forward of the shaft on the main deck,
+and mahogany aft and in the dining-room. Ash is also used in the grand
+saloons on the promenade deck. One feature of these saloons especially
+worthy of note, is the number and size of the windows, which are so
+numerous as to almost form one continuous window. Seated in one of
+these elegant saloons as in a floating palace of glass, the tourist
+who prefers to remain inside enjoys equally with those outside the
+unrivalled scenery through which the steamer is passing. The private
+parlors on the "New York" are provided with bay windows and are
+very luxuriantly furnished. In the saloons are paintings by Albert
+Bierstadt, J. F. Cropsey, Walter Satterlee and David Johnson. The
+dining-room on the "New York" is located on the main deck, aft; a
+feature that will commend itself to tourists, since while enjoying
+their meals they will not be deprived from viewing the noble scenery
+through which the steamer is passing. While the carrying capacity of
+the "New York" is 4,500 passengers, license for 2,500 only is applied
+for, thus guaranteeing ample room for all and the absence from
+crowding which is so essential to comfort.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Thy fate and mine are not repose,
+  And ere another evening close
+  Thou to thy tides shall turn again
+  And I to seek the crowd of men.
+
+  _William Cullen Byrant._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The "Albany"= was built by the Harlan & Hollingsworth Co., of
+Wilmington, Del., in 1880. During the winter of 1892, she was
+lengthened thirty feet and furnished with modern feathering wheels
+in place of the old style radial ones. Her hull is of iron, 325 feet
+long, breadth of beam over all 75 feet, and her tonnage is 1,415 gross
+tons. Her engine was built by the W. & A. Fletcher Co., of New York,
+and develops 3,200 horse power. The stroke is 12 feet, and the
+diameter of the cylinder is 73 inches. On her trial trip she ran from
+New York to Poughkeepsie, a distance of 75 miles, in three hours and
+seven minutes. Steam steering gear is used on the "Albany," thus
+insuring ease and precision in handling her. The wood-work on the main
+deck and in the upper saloons is all hard wood; mahogany, ash and
+maple tastefully carved. Wide, easy staircases lead to the main saloon
+and upper decks. Rich Axminster carpets cover the floors, and mahogany
+tables and furniture of antique design and elegant finish make up the
+appointments of a handsomely furnished drawing room.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Lose not a memory of the glorious scenes,
+  Mountains and palisades, and leaning rocks.
+
+  _William Wallace._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Old Reaches.=--Early navigators divided the Hudson into fourteen
+"reaches" or distances from point to point as seen by one sailing up
+or down the river. In the slow days of uncertain sailing vessels these
+divisions meant more than in our time of "propelling steam," but they
+are still of practical and historic interest.
+
+The Great Chip Rock Reach extends from above Weehawken about eighteen
+miles to the boundary line of New York and New Jersey--(near
+Piermont). The Palisades were known by the old Dutch settlers as the
+"Great Chip," and so styled in the Bergen Deed of Purchase, viz, the
+great chip above Weehawken. The _Tappan_ Reach (on the east side of
+which dwelt the Manhattans, and on the west side the Saulrickans and
+the Tappans), extends about seven miles to Teller's Point. The
+third reach to a narrow point called _Haverstroo_; then comes the
+_Seylmaker's_ Reach, then _Crescent_ Reach; next _Hoge's_ Reach, and
+then _Vorsen_ Reach, which extends to Klinkersberg, or Storm King,
+the northern portal of the Highlands. This is succeeded by _Fisher's_
+Reach where, on the east side once dwelt a race of savages called
+Pachami. "This reach," in the language of De Laet, "extends to another
+narrow pass, where, on the west, is a point of land which juts out,
+covered with sand, opposite a bend in the river, on which another
+nation of savages--the Waoranecks--have their abode at a place called
+Esopus. Next, another reach, called _Claverack_; then _Backerack;_
+next _Playsier_ Reach, and _Vaste_ Reach, as far as Hinnenhock; then
+_Hunter's_ Reach, as far as Kinderhook; and Fisher's Hook, near Shad
+Island, over which, on the east side, dwell the Mahicans." If these
+reaches seem valueless at present there are
+
+=Five Divisions of the Hudson=--which possess interest for all, as
+they present an analysis easy to be remembered--divisions marked by
+something more substantial than sentiment or fancy, expressing five
+distinct characteristics:--
+
+1. THE PALISADES, an unbroken wall of rock for fifteen
+miles--GRANDEUR.
+
+2. THE TAPPAN ZEE, surrounded by the sloping hills of Nyack,
+Tarrytown, and Sleepy Hollow--REPOSE.
+
+3. THE HIGHLANDS, where the Hudson for twenty miles plays "hide and
+seek" with "hills rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun"--SUBLIMITY.
+
+4. THE HILLSIDES for miles above and below Poughkeepsie--THE
+PICTURESQUE.
+
+5. THE CATSKILLS, on the west, throned in queenly dignity--BEAUTY.
+
+       * * *
+
+                On the deck
+  Stands the bold Hudson, gazing at the sights
+  Opening successive--point and rock and hill,
+  Majestic mountain-top, and nestling vale.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+=SUGGESTIONS.=
+
+From the Hurricane Deck of the Hudson River Day Line Steamers can
+be seen, on leaving or approaching the Metropolis, one of the most
+interesting panoramas in the world--the river life of Manhattan,
+the massive structures of Broadway, the great Transatlantic docks,
+Recreation Piers, and an ever-changing kaleidoscope of interest. The
+view is especially grand on the down trip between the hours of five
+and six in the afternoon, as the western sun brings the city in strong
+relief against the sky. If tourists wish to fully enjoy this beautiful
+view they should remain on the Hurricane Deck until the boat is well
+into her Desbrosses Street slip.
+
+=The Brooklyn Annex.=--The Brooklyn tourist is especially happy in
+this delightful preface and addenda to the Hudson River trip. The
+effect of morning and evening light in bringing out or in subduing the
+sky-line of Manhattan is nowhere seen to greater advantage. In the
+morning the buildings from the East River side stand out bold and
+clear, when lo! almost instantaneously, on turning the Battery, they
+are lessened and subdued. On the return trip in the evening, the
+effect is reversed--a study worth the while of the traveler as he
+passes to and fro on the commodious "Annex" between Desbrosses
+Street Pier and Brooklyn. Surely no other city in the world rises so
+beautiful from harbor line or water front as "Greater New York," with
+lofty outlines of the boroughs of Manhattan and Brooklyn reminding one
+of Scott's tribute to Edinburgh:
+
+  "Piled deep and massy, close and high,
+  Mine own romantic town!"
+
+       * * *
+
+    Down at the end of the long, dark street,
+      Years, years ago,
+    I sat with my sweetheart on the pier,
+      Watching the river flow.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: STATUE OF LIBERTY]
+
+
+
+
+=NEW YORK TO ALBANY.=
+
+
+=Desbrosses Street Pier to Forty-Second Street.=
+
+Our historic journey fittingly begins at Desbrosses Street, for here,
+near the old River-front, extending from Desbrosses along Greenwich,
+stood the Revolutionary line of breastworks reaching south to the
+Grenadier Battery at Franklin Street. Below this were "Jersey,"
+"McDougall" and "Oyster" batteries and intervening earthworks to Port
+George, on the Battery, which stood on the site of old Fort Amsterdam,
+carrying us back to Knickerbocker memories of Peter Stuyvesant and
+Wowter Van Twiller. The view from the after-deck, before the steamer
+leaves the pier, gives scope for the imagination to re-picture the
+far-away primitive and heroic days of early New York.
+
+=Desbrosses Street Pier.=--On leaving the lower landing a charming
+view is obtained of New York Harbor, the Narrows, Staten Island, the
+Bartholdi Statue of Liberty, and, in clear weather, far away to the
+South, the Highlands of Nevisink, the first land to greet the eye
+of the ocean voyager. As the steamer swings out into the stream the
+tourist is at once face to face with a rapidly changing panorama.
+Steamers arriving, with happy faces on their decks, from southern
+ports or distant lands; others with waving handkerchiefs bidding
+good-bye to friends on crowded docks; swift-shuttled ferry-boats, with
+hurrying passengers, supplying their homespun woof to the great warp
+of foreign or coastwise commerce; noisy tug-boats, sombre as dray
+horses, drawing long lines of canal boats, or proud in the convoy of
+some Atlantic greyhound that has not yet slipped its leash; dignified
+"Men of War" at anchor, flying the flags of many nations, happy
+excursion boats _en route_ to sea-side resorts, scows, picturesque
+in their very clumsiness and uncouthness--all unite in a living
+kaleidescope of beauty.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Rise, stately symbol! Holding forth
+    Thy light and hope to all who sit
+  In chains and darkness! Belt the earth
+    With watch-fires from thy torch uplit!
+
+  _John Greenleaf Whittier._
+
+       * * *
+
+Across the river on the Jersey Shore are seen extensive docks of great
+railways, with elevators and stations that seem like "knotted ends"
+of vast railway lines, lest they might forsooth, untwist and become
+irrecoverably tangled in approaching the Metropolis. Prominent among
+these are the _Pennsylvania Railroad_ for the South and West; the
+_Erie Railway_, the _Delaware, Lackawanna and Western_, and to the
+North above Hoboken the _West Shore_, serving also as starting point
+for the _New York, Ontario and Western_. Again the eye returns to
+the crowded wharves and warehouses of New York, reaching from Castle
+Garden beyond 30th Street, with forest-like masts and funnels of ocean
+steamships, and then to prominent buildings mounting higher and higher
+year by year along the city horizon, marking the course of Broadway
+from the Battery, literally fulfilling the humor of Knickerbocker
+in not leaving space for a breath of air for the top of old Trinity
+Church spire.
+
+=Stevens' Castle.=--About midway between Desbrosses Street and 42d
+Street Pier will be seen on the Jersey Shore a wooded point with
+sightly building, known as Stevens' Castle, home of the late Commodore
+Stevens, founder of the Stevens Institute of Technology. Above this
+are the Elysian Fields, near the river bank, known in early days as a
+quiet resort but now greatly changed in the character of its visitors.
+On the left will also be seen the dome and tower of St. Michael's
+Monastery, and above this Union Hill.
+
+=The Trap Rock Ridge=, which begins to show itself above the Elysian
+Fields, increases gradually in height to the brow of the Palisades.
+West of Bergen Heights and Union Hill flows the Hackensack River
+parallel to the Hudson, and at this point only about two miles
+distant.
+
+       * * *
+
+  How still with all her towers and domes
+    The city sleeps on yonder shore,--
+  How many thousand happy homes
+    Yon starless sky is bending o'er.
+
+  _Park Benjamin._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Forty-Second Street to One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth.=
+
+=The 42d Street Pier= is now at hand, convenient of access to
+travelers, as the 42d Street car line crosses Manhattan intersecting
+every "up and down" surface, subway or elevated road in the City,
+as does also the Grand, Vestry and Desbrosses Street at the lower
+landing. While passengers are coming aboard we take pleasure in
+quoting the following from Baedeker's Guide to the United States: "The
+Photo-Panorama of the Hudson, published by the Bryant Union Publishing
+Co., New York City (price 50 cents), shows both sides of the river
+from New York to Albany, accurately represented from 800 consecutive
+photographs. This new and complete object-guide will be of service
+to the tourist, and can be had at the steamers' news stands, head of
+grand stairway, or it will be sent by publishers, postpaid, on receipt
+of price."
+
+=Weehawken= with its sad story of the duel between Hamilton and Burr
+is soon seen upon the west bank. A monument once marked the spot,
+erected by the St. Andrews Society of New York City on the ledge of
+rock where Hamilton fell early in the morning of the eleventh of July,
+1804. The quarrel between this great statesman and his malignant rival
+was, perhaps, more personal than political. It is said that Hamilton,
+in accordance with the old-time code of honor, accepted the challenge,
+but fired into the air, while Burr with fiendish cruelty took
+deliberate revenge. Burr was never forgiven by the citizens of New
+York and from that hour walked its streets shunned and despised. Among
+the many poetic tributes penned at the time to the memory of Hamilton,
+perhaps the best was by a poet whose name is now scarcely remembered,
+Mr. Robert C. Sands. A fine picture of Hamilton will be found in the
+New York Chamber of Commerce where the writer was recently shown the
+following concise paragraph from Talleyrand: "The three greatest men
+of my time, in my opinion, were Napoleon Bonaparte, Charles James Fox
+and Alexander Hamilton and the greatest of the three was Hamilton."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where round yon capes the banks ascend
+  Long shall the pilgrim's footsteps bend,
+  There, mirthful heart shall pause to sigh,
+  There tears shall dim the patriot's eye.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+The plain marble slab which stood in the face of the monument is still
+preserved by a member of the King family. It is thirty-six inches
+long by twenty-six and a half inches wide and bears the following
+inscription: "As an expression of their affectionate regard to his
+Memory and their deep regret for his loss, the St. Andrew's Society of
+the State of New York have erected this Monument."
+
+Quite a history attaches to this stone (graphically condensed by
+an old gardener of the King estate): "It stood in the face of the
+monument for sixteen years, and was read by thousands, but by 1820 the
+pillar had become an eyesore to the enlightened public sentiment of
+the age, and an agitation was begun in the public prints for its
+removal. It was not, however, organized effort, but the order of one
+man, that at length demolished the pillar. This man was Captain Deas,
+a peace-loving gentleman, strongly opposed to duelling and brawls,
+and on seeing a party approaching the grounds often interposed and
+sometimes succeeded in effecting a reconciliation. He became tired of
+seeing the pillar in his daily walks, and, in 1820, ordered his men to
+remove it and deposit the slab containing the inscription in one
+of the outbuildings of the estate. This was done. But a few months
+afterward the slab was stolen, and nothing more was heard of it until
+thirteen years later, when Mr. Hugh Maxwell, president of the St.
+Andrew's Society, discovered it in a junk shop in New York. He at once
+purchased it and presented it to Mr. James G. King, who about this
+time came into possession of the Deas property, where it has since
+been carefully preserved."
+
+This mansion of Captain Deas afterward known as the "King House on the
+Cliff" was a stately residence where Washington Irving used to come
+and dream of his fair Manhattan across the river. It was also the
+head-quarters of Lafayette, after the battle of Brandywine.
+
+       * * *
+
+    I was an admirer of General Hamilton, and I sicken
+    when I think of our political broils, slanders and enmities.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+The gardener also said: "the river road beneath us is cut directly
+through the spot. Originally it was simply a narrow and grassy shelf
+close up under the cliffs, six feet wide and eleven paces long. A
+great cedar tree stood at one end, and this sandbowlder, which we have
+also preserved, was at the other. It was about twenty feet above
+the river and was reached by a steep rocky path leading up from the
+Hudson, and, as there was then no road or path even along the base
+of the cliffs, it could be reached only by boats." The first duel at
+Weehawken of which there is any record was in 1799, between Aaron Burr
+and John B. Church (Hamilton's brother-in-law). The parties met and
+exchanged shots; neither was wounded. The seconds then induced Church
+to offer an apology and the affair terminated. The last duel was
+fought there September 28, 1845, and ended in a farce, the pistols
+being loaded with cork--a fitting termination to a relic of barbarism.
+
+=Riverside Drive and Park.= Riverside Drive, on the east bank starting
+at 72d Street, is pronounced the finest residential avenue in the
+world. Distinguished among many noble residences is the home of
+Charles M. Schwab at 73d Street, which cost two million dollars; built
+on the New York Orphan Asylum plot for which he paid $860,000.
+
+=The Soldiers and Sailors Monument=, 89th Street, a memorial to the
+citizens of New York, who took part in the Civil War, a beautiful work
+of art, circular in form, with Corinthian columns, erected by the city
+at a cost of a quarter of million of dollars was dedicated May 30,
+1902. The corner-stone was laid in 1900 by President Roosevelt, at
+that time Governor. The location was well selected, and it presents
+one of the most attractive features of the river front.
+
+       * * *
+
+  We celebrate our hundredth year
+    With thankful hearts and words of praise,
+  And learn a lasting lesson here
+    Of trust and hope for coming days.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Columbia University=, on Morningside Heights, has a fine outlook,
+crowning a noble site worthy of the old college, whose sons have been
+to the fore since the days of the Revolution in promoting the glory
+of the state and the nation. President Low has happily styled
+"Morningside," which extends from 116th to 120th Streets, "The
+Acropolis of the new world." The Library Building which he erected to
+his father's memory, is of Greek architecture and cost $1,500,000. It
+contains 300,000 volumes and is open night and day to the public. It
+also marks the battle ground and American victory of Harlem Heights in
+1776.
+
+=The Cathedral of St. John the Divine= (Protestant Episcopal), now in
+process of erection, occupies three blocks from 110th Street to 113th
+between Morningside Park and Amsterdam Avenue. The corner stone was
+laid in 1892 to be completed about 1940 at a cost of $6,000,000. The
+crypt quarried out of the solid rock has been completed and services
+are held in it every Sunday. Near at hand will be seen the beautiful
+dome of St. Luke's Hospital.
+
+=Grant's Tomb=, Riverside Drive and 123d Street, has the most
+commanding site of the Hudson River front of New York. The bluff rises
+130 feet and still retains the name of Claremont. The apex of
+the memorial is 280 feet above the river. Ninety thousand people
+contributed to the "Grant Monument Association fund" which, with
+interest, aggregated $600,000. The corner stone was laid by President
+Harrison in 1892 and dedicated April 27, 1897, on the seventy-fifth
+anniversary of Grant's birth, with a great military, naval and civil
+parade. The occasion was marked by an address of President McKinley
+and an oration of Gen. Horace Porter, president of the Grant Monument
+Association.
+
+An attempt to remove Grant's body to Washington was made in Congress
+but overwhelmingly defeated. The speech by Congressman Amos Cummings
+in the House of Representatives, was a happy condensation of the
+facts. He fittingly said: "New York was General Grant's chosen home.
+He tried many other places but finally settled there. A house was
+given to him here in Washington, but he abandoned it in the most
+marked manner to buy one for himself in New York. He was a familiar
+form upon her streets. He presided at her public meetings and at all
+times took an active interest in her local affairs. He was perfectly
+at home there and was charmed with its associations. It was the spot
+on earth chosen by himself as the most agreeable to him; he meant to
+live and die there. It was his home when he died. He closed his career
+without ever once expressing a wish to leave it, but always to remain
+in it.
+
+"Men are usually buried at their homes. Washington was buried there;
+Lincoln was buried there; Garibaldi was buried there; Gambetta was
+buried there, and Ericsson was buried, not at the Capital of Sweden,
+but at his own home. Those who say that New York is backward in giving
+for any commendable thing either do not know her or they belie her.
+Wherever in the civilized world there has been disaster by fire or
+flood, or from earthquake or pestilence, she has been among the
+foremost in the field of givers and has remained there when others
+have departed. It is a shame to speak of her as parsimonious or as
+failing in any benevolent duty. Those who charge her with being
+dilatory should remember that haste is not always speed. It took more
+than a quarter of a century to erect Bunker Hill Monument; the ladies
+of Boston completed it. It took nearly half a century to erect a
+monument to George Washington in the City founded by him, named for
+him, and by his act made the Capital of the Nation; the Government
+completed it. New York has already shown that she will do far better
+than this."
+
+* * *
+
+  His glory as the centuries wide,
+    His honor bright as sunlit seas,
+  His lullaby the Hudson tide,
+    His requiem the whispering breeze.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Thirteen Elm Trees=, about ten or fifteen minutes' walk from
+General Grant's Tomb, were planted by Alexander Hamilton in his
+door-yard, a century ago, to commemorate the thirteen original States.
+This property was purchased by the late Hon. Orlando Potter, of New
+York, with the following touch of patriotic sentiment: "These
+famous trees are located in the northeast corner of One Hundred and
+Forty-third street and Convent Avenue; or, on lots fourteen and
+fifteen," said the auctioneer to the crowd that gathered at the sale.
+"In order that the old property with the trees may be kept unbroken,
+should the purchaser desire, we will sell lots 8 to 21 inclusive in
+one batch! How much am I offered?" "One hundred thousand dollars,"
+quietly responded Mr. Potter. A ripple of excitement ran through the
+crowd, and the bid was quickly run up to $120,000 by speculators. "One
+hundred and twenty-five thousand," said Mr. Potter. Then there were
+several thousand dollar bids, and the auctioneer said: "Do I hear
+one hundred and thirty?" Mr. Potter nodded. He nodded again at the
+"thirty-five" and "forty" and then some one raised him $250. "Five
+hundred," remarked Mr. Potter, and the bidding was done. "Sold for
+$140,500!" cried the auctioneer. Mr. Potter smiled and drew his check
+for the amount. "I can't say what I will do with the property," said
+Mr. Potter. "You can rest assured, however, that the trees will not be
+cut down."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Rest in peace by stately rivers martyred soldiers of the free,
+  Rest brave captain, at our threshold, where the Hudson meets the sea.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Edgewater=, opposite Grant's Tomb on the west bank, lies between
+Undercliff on the north and Shadyside on the south. The latter place
+was made historic by Anthony Wayne's capture of supplies for the
+American army in the summer of 1780 which formed the basis of a
+satirical poem by Major Andre, entitled ="The Cow Chase."=
+
+The steamer is now approaching 129th street, and we turn again with
+pride to the beautiful tomb of General Grant which fittingly marks one
+point of a great triangle of fame--the heroic struggle of the American
+soldiers in 1776, the home of Alexander Hamilton, and the burial place
+of the greatest soldier of the Civil War.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Woodman, spare that tree!
+    Touch not a single bough!
+  In youth it sheltered me,
+    And I will protect it now.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+=One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth Street to Yonkers.=
+
+This upper landing of the Hudson River Day Line has a beautiful
+location and is a great convenience to the dwellers of northern
+Manhattan. On leaving the pier the steel-arched structure of
+Riverside Drive is seen on the right. The valley here spanned, in the
+neighborhood of 127th Street, was once known as "Marritje Davids'
+Fly," and the local name for this part of New York above Claremont
+Heights is still known as "Manhattanville." The Convent of the Sacred
+Heart is visible among the trees, and
+
+=Trinity Cemetery's Monuments= soon gleam along the wooded bank. Among
+her distinguished dead is the grave of General John A. Dix whose words
+rang across the land sixty days before the attack on Fort Sumter:
+"If any man attempts to pull down the American flag shoot him on the
+spot." The John A. Dix Post of New York comes hither each Decoration
+Day and garlands with imposing ceremonies his grave and the graves of
+their comrades.
+
+Near Carmansville was the home of Audubon, the ornithologist, and the
+residences above the cemetery are grouped together as Audubon Park.
+Near at hand is the New York Institute for the Deaf and Dumb, and
+pleasantly located near the shore the River House once known as
+West-End Hotel.
+
+=Washington Heights= rise in a bold bluff above Jeffrey's Hook. After
+the withdrawal of the American army from Long Island, it became
+apparent to General Washington and Hamilton that New York would have
+to be abandoned. General Greene and Congress believed in maintaining
+the fort, but future developments showed that Washington was right.
+The American troops, so far as clothing or equipment was concerned,
+were in a pitiable condition, and the result of the struggle makes one
+of the darkest pages of the war. On the 12th of November Washington
+started from Stony Point for Fort Lee and arrived the 13th, finding
+to his disappointment that General Greene, instead of having made
+arrangements for evacuating, was, on the contrary, reinforcing Fort
+Washington. The entire defense numbered only about 2000 men, mostly
+militia, with hardly a coat, to quote an English writer, "that was not
+out at the elbows." "On the night of the 14th thirty flat-bottomed
+boats stole quietly up the Hudson, passed the American forts
+undiscovered, and made their way through Spuyten Duyvil Creek into
+Harlem River. The means were thus provided for crossing that river,
+and landing before unprotected parts of the American works."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Faith's pioneers and Freedom's martyrs sleep
+  Beneath their shade: and under their old boughs
+  The wise and brave of generations past
+  Walked every Sabbath to the house of God.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to Irving, "On the 15th General Howe sent a summons to
+surrender, with a threat of extremities should he have to carry the
+place by assault." Magaw, in his reply, intimated a doubt that General
+Howe would execute a threat "so unworthy of himself and the British
+nation; but give me leave," added he, "to assure his Excellency, that,
+actuated by the most glorious cause that mankind ever fought in, I am
+determined to defend this post to the very last extremity."
+
+"Apprised by the colonel of his peril, General Greene sent over
+reinforcements, with an exhortation to him to persist in his
+defense; and dispatched an express to General Washington, who was at
+Hackensack, where the troops from Peekskill were encamped. It was
+nightfall when Washington arrived at Fort Lee. Greene and Putnam were
+over at the besieged fortress. He threw himself into a boat, and had
+partly crossed the river, when he met those Generals returning. They
+informed him of the garrison having been reinforced, and assured him
+that it was in high spirits, and capable of making a good defense. It
+was with difficulty, however, they could prevail on him to return with
+them to the Jersey shore, for he was excessively excited."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Hark! Freedom's arms ring far and wide;
+    Again these forts with beacons gleam;
+  Loud cannon roar on every side--
+    I start, I wake; I did but dream.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+"Early the next morning, Magaw made his dispositions for the expected
+attack. His forces, with the recent addition, amounted to nearly three
+thousand men. As the fort could not contain above a third of its
+defenders, most of them were stationed about the outworks."
+
+About noon, a heavy cannonade thundered along the rocky hills, and
+sharp volleys of musketry, proclaimed that the action was commenced.
+
+"Washington, surrounded by several of his officers, had been an
+anxious spectator of the battle from the opposite side of the Hudson.
+Much of it was hidden from him by intervening hills and forest; but
+the roar of cannonry from the valley of the Harlem River, the sharp
+and incessant reports of rifles, and the smoke rising above the
+tree-tops, told him of the spirit with which the assault was received
+at various points, and gave him for a time hope that the defense might
+be successful. The action about the lines to the south lay open to
+him, and could be distinctly seen through a telescope; and nothing
+encouraged him more than the gallant style in which Cadwalader with
+inferior force maintained his position. When he saw him however,
+assailed in flank, the line broken, and his troops, overpowered by
+numbers, retreating to the fort, he gave up the game as lost. The
+worst sight of all, was to behold his men cut down and bayoneted by
+the Hessians while begging quarter. It is said so completely to have
+overcome him, that he wept with the tenderness of a child."
+
+"Seeing the flag go into the fort from Knyphausen's division, and
+surmising it to be a summons to surrender, he wrote a note to Magaw,
+telling him if he could hold out until evening and the place could
+not be maintained, he would endeavor to bring off the garrison in the
+night. Capt. Gooch, of Boston, a brave and daring man, offered to be
+the bearer of the note. He ran down to the river, jumped into a small
+boat, pushed over the river, landed under the bank, ran up to the fort
+and delivered the message, came out, ran and jumped over the broken
+ground, dodging the Hessians, some of whom struck at him with their
+pieces and others attempted to thrust him with their bayonets;
+escaping through them, he got to his boat and returned to Fort Lee."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Up and down the valley of the Hudson the contending
+    armies surged like the ebbing and flowing of the tides.
+
+    _William Wait._
+
+       * * *
+
+Washington's message arrived too late. "The fort was so crowded by
+the garrison and the troops which had retreated into it, that it was
+difficult to move about. The enemy, too, were in possession of the
+little redoubts around, and could have poured in showers of shells and
+ricochet balls that would have made dreadful slaughter." It was no
+longer possible for Magaw to get his troops to man the lines; he was
+compelled, therefore, to yield himself and his garrison prisoners of
+war. The only terms granted them were, that the men should retain
+their baggage and the officers their swords.
+
+=Fort Lee=, directly across the river, had a commanding position, but
+was entirely useless to the Revolutionary army after the fall of Fort
+Washington. It was therefore immediately abandoned to the British, as
+was also Fort Constitution, another redoubt near at hand.
+
+It will be remembered that the American army after long continued
+disaster in and about New York, retreated southward from Fort Lee and
+Hackensack to the Delaware, where Washington with a strategic stroke
+brought dismay on his enemies and restored confidence to his friends
+and the Patriots' Cause.
+
+=The Palisades, or Great Chip Rock=, as they were known by the old
+Dutch settlers, present the same bold front to the river that the
+Giant's Causeway does to the ocean. Their height at Fort Lee, where
+the bold cliffs first assert themselves, is three hundred feet, and
+they extend about seventeen or eighteen miles to the hills of Rockland
+County. A stroll along the summit reveals the fact that they are
+almost as broken and fantastic in form as the great rocks along the
+Elbe in Saxon-Switzerland.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Palisades in sterner pride
+  Tower as the gloom steals o'er the tide,
+  For the great stream a bulwark meet
+  That laves its rock-encumbered feet.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+As the basaltic trap-rock is one of the oldest geological formations,
+we might still appropriately style the Palisades "a chip of the old
+block." They separate the valley of the Hudson from the valley of the
+Hackensack. The Hackensack rises in Rockland Lake opposite Sing Sing,
+within two or three hundred yards of the Hudson, and the rivers flow
+thirty miles side by side. Some geologists think that originally they
+were one river, but they are now separated from each other by a wall
+more substantial than even the 2,000 mile structure of the "Heathen
+Chinee."
+
+It might also be interesting to note Prof. Newberry's idea that in
+pre-glacial times this part of the continent was several hundred feet
+higher than at present, and that the Hudson was a very rapid stream
+and much larger than now, draining as it did the Great Lakes: that the
+St. Lawrence found its way through the Hudson Channel following pretty
+nearly the line of the present Mohawk, and the great river emptied
+into the Atlantic some 80 miles south of Staten Island. This idea is
+confirmed by the soundings of the coast survey which discover the
+ancient page of the Hudson as here indicated on the floor of the sea
+far out where the ocean is 500 feet in depth. A speculation of what a
+voyager a few million years ago would have then seen might, however,
+as Hamlet observes, be "to consider somewhat too curiously" for
+ordinary up-to-date tourists. But even, granting all this to be true,
+the Palisades were already old, thrown up long ages before, between
+a rift in the earth's surface, where it cooled in columnar form.
+The rocky mould which held it, being of softer material, finally
+disintegrated and crumbled away, leaving the cliff with its peculiar
+perpendicular formation.
+
+A recent writer has said: "The Palisades are among the wonders of the
+world. Only three other places equal them in importance, but each of
+the four is different from the others, and the Palisades are unique.
+The Giant's Causeway on the north coast of Ireland, and the cliffs at
+Kawaddy in India, are thought by many to have been the result of the
+same upheaval of nature as the Palisades; but the Hudson rocks seem
+to have preserved their entirety--to have come up in a body, as it
+were--while the Giant's Causeway owes its celebrity to the ruined
+state in which the Titanic forces of nature have left it. The third
+wonder is at Staffa, in Scotland, where the rocks have been thrown
+into such a position as to justify the name of Fingal's Cave, which
+they bear, and which was bestowed on them in the olden times before
+Scottish history began to be written. It is singular how many of the
+names which dignify, or designate, favorite spots of the Giant's
+Causeway have been duplicated in the Palisades. Among the Hudson rocks
+are several 'Lady's Chairs,' 'Lover's Leaps,' 'Devil's Toothpicks,'
+'Devil's Pulpits,' and, in many spots on the water's edge, especially
+those most openly exposed to the weather, we see exactly the same
+conformations which excite admiration and wonder in the Irish rocks."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where the mighty cliffs look upward in their glory and their glow
+  I see a wondrous river in its beauty southward flow.
+
+  _Thomas C. Harbaugh._
+
+       * * *
+
+Under the base of these cliffs William Cullen Bryant one Sabbath
+morning wrote his beautiful lines:
+
+  "Cool shades and dews are round my way,
+  And silence of the early day;
+  Mid the dark rocks that watch his bed,
+  Glitters the mighty Hudson spread,
+  Unrippled, save by drops that fall
+  From shrubs that fringe his mountain wall;
+  And o'er the clear, still water swells
+  The music of the Sabbath bells.
+
+  All, save this little nook of land,
+  Circled with trees, on which I stand;
+  All, save that line of hills which lie
+  Suspended in the mimic sky--
+  Seems a blue void, above, below,
+  Through which the white clouds come and go;
+  And from the green world's farthest steep
+  I gaze into the airy deep."
+
+       * * *
+
+    A mellow sunset was settling upon the hills and
+    waters and a thousand flashes played over the distant
+    city as its spires and prominent objects caught its glow.
+
+    _N. P. Willis._
+
+       * * *
+
+There are many strange stories connected with the Palisades, and
+one narrator says: "remarkable disappearances have occurred in the
+vicinity that have never been explained. On a conical-shaped rock near
+Clinton Point a young man and a young woman were seen standing some
+half a century ago. Several of their friends, who were back some
+thirty feet from the face of the cliff, saw them distinctly, and
+called out to them not to approach too near the edge. The young couple
+laughingly sent some answer back, and a moment later vanished as by
+magic. Their friends rushed to the edge of the cliff but saw no trace
+of them. They noticed at once that the tide was out, and at the base
+three or four boatmen were sauntering about as though nothing had
+happened (forgetting even, as Bryant did, that a vertical line from
+the top of the cliff on account of the crumbling debris of ages makes
+it impossible for even the strongest arm to hurl a stone from the
+summit to the margin of the river). A diligent search was instituted.
+Friends and boatmen joined in the search, but from that day to this
+they have never been heard from, no trace of them has been found, and
+the mystery of their disappearance is as complete now as it was five
+minutes after they vanished--a more tragical termination than the
+story of the old pilot on a Lake George steamer, who, surrounded one
+morning by a group of tourist-questioners, pointed to Roger Slide
+Mountain, and said: "A couple went up there and never came back
+again." "What do you suppose, captain," said a fair-haired, anxious
+listener, "ever became of them?" "Can't tell," said the captain, "some
+folks said they went down on the other side.""
+
+The old Palisade Mountain House, a few miles above Fort Lee, had
+a commanding location, but was burned in 1884 and never rebuilt.
+Pleasant villas are here and there springing up along this rocky
+balcony of the lower Hudson, and probably the entire summit will some
+day abound in castles and luxuriant homes. It is in fact within the
+limit of possibility that this may in the future present the finest
+residential street in the world, with a natural macadamized boulevard
+midway between the Hudson and the sky.
+
+       * * *
+
+  What love yon cliffs and steeps could tell
+  If vocal made by Fancy's spell!
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+It grieves one to see the gray rocks torn away for building material,
+but, as fast as man destroys, nature kindly heals the wound; or to
+keep the Palisade figure more complete, she recaptures the scarred and
+broken battlements, unfolding along the steep escarpment her waving
+standards of green. It sometimes seems as if one can almost see her
+selecting the easiest point of attack, marshalling her forces, running
+her parallels with Boadicea-like skill, and carrying her streaming
+banners, more real than Macbeth's "Birnam-Wood" to crowning rampart
+and lofty parapet.
+
+The New York side from the Battery to Inwood, the northern end of
+Manhattan Island, is already "well peopled." Until recently the land
+about Fort Washington has been held in considerable tracts and
+the very names of these suburban points suggest altitude and
+outlook--Highbridgeville, Fordham Heights, Morris Heights, University
+Heights, Kingsbridge Heights, Mount Hope, &c. The growth of the city
+all the way to Jerome and Van Cortlandt's Park during the last few
+years has been marvelous. It has literally stepped over the Harlem to
+find room in the picturesque county of Westchester.
+
+=The Island of Manhattan.=--As we approach the northern limit of
+Manhattan we feel that in the preservation of the beautiful name
+"Manhattan," distinctive of New York's chief borough, Irving's dream
+has been happily realized. The meaning of this Indian word has been
+the subject of much discussion. It is, however, simply the name of a
+tribe. As the old historian De Laet says, "On the east side, on the
+main land dwell the Manhattoes," and again from the "Documentary
+History of New York." "It is so called from the people which inhabited
+the main land on the east side of the river."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Pleasant it is to lie amid the grass,
+    Under these shady locusts half the day,
+    Watching the ships reflected in the Bay,
+  Topmast and shroud, as in a wizard's glass.
+
+  _Thomas Bailey Aldrich._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN HEAD, PALISADES]
+
+The word Manhattan signifies also it is said: "The People of the
+Islands," and it was evidently used by the Indians as a generic term
+designating the inhabitants of the island itself, and also of Long
+Island and the Neversink. This is in accordance with the testimony of
+Van der Donck. With Irving we all recognize the music and poetry
+of the name and are proud that our river of beauty is so happily
+heralded.
+
+=Spuyten Duyvil Creek.=--Above Washington Heights, on the east bank,
+the _Spuyten Duyvil_ meets the Hudson. This stream is the northern
+boundary of New York Island, and a short distance east of the Hudson
+bears the name of Harlem River. Its course is southeast and joins the
+East River at Randall's Island, just above Hell Gate. It is a curious
+fact that this modest stream should be bounded by such suggestive
+appellations as Hell Gate and Spuyten Duyvil. This is the first point
+of special legendary interest to one journeying up the Hudson and it
+takes its name according to the veracious Knickerbocker, from the
+following incident: It seems that the famous Antony Van Corlear was
+despatched one evening with an important message up the Hudson. When
+he arrived at this creek the wind was high, the elements were in an
+uproar, and no boatman at hand. "For a short time," it is said, "he
+vapored like an impatient ghost upon the brink, and then, bethinking
+himself of the urgency of his errand, took a hearty embrace of his
+stone bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across _en
+spijt en Duyvil_ (in spite of the Devil), and daringly plunged into
+the stream. Scarce had he buffeted half way over when he was observed
+to struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of the waters.
+Instinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehement
+blast--sank forever to the bottom."
+
+       * * *
+
+  O legends full of life and health,
+    That live when records fail and die,
+  Ye are the Hudson's richest wealth,
+    The frondage of her history!
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+The main branch of the Hudson River Railroad, with its station at
+Forty-second Street and Fourth Avenue, crosses the Harlem River at
+Mott Haven, and, following its northern bank, meets the Hudson at this
+point, where the 30th Street branch, following the river, joins the
+main line. The steamer now passes Riverdale, with its beautiful
+residences and the Convent of Mount St. Vincent, one of the prominent
+landmarks of the Hudson, located on grounds bought of Edwin Forrest,
+the tragedian, whose "Font Hill Castle" appears in the foreground, and
+we come to
+
+=Yonkers=, on the east bank, seventeen miles from New York, at the
+mouth of the Nepperhan. West of the creek is a large rock, called
+A-mac-lea-sin, the great stone to which the Indians paid reverence as
+an evidence of the permanency and immutability of their deity. The
+Mahican Village at the mouth of the creek was called Nappechemak.
+European settlements were made as early as 1639, as shown by deeds of
+purchase. Here are many important manufacturing industries: carpet,
+silk, and hat factories; mowers and reapers, gutta percha, rubber and
+pencil companies. Its "Recreation Pavilion" on the pier was a noble
+thing for the city to build--costing $50,000. The structure is of
+steel and capable of accommodating 5,000 people.
+
+It is said that Yonkers derived its name from Yonk-herr--the young
+heir, or young sir, of the Phillipse manor. Until after the middle
+of the seventeenth century the Phillipse family had their principal
+residence at Castle Phillipse, Sleepy Hollow, but having purchased
+"property to the southward" from Adrian Van der Donck and obtained
+from the English king a patent creating the manor of Phillipsburgh,
+they moved from their old castle to the new "Manor Hall," which at
+this time was probably the finest mansion on the Hudson. This property
+was confiscated by act of Legislature in 1779, as Frederick Phillipse,
+third lord of the manor, was thought to lean toward royalty, and
+sold by the "Commissioners of Forfeiture" in 1785. It was afterwards
+purchased by John Jacob Astor, then passed to the Government, was
+bought by the village of Yonkers in 1868, and became the City Hall in
+1872. The older portion of the house was built in 1682, the present
+front in 1745. The woodwork is very interesting, also the ceilings,
+the large hall and the wide fire-place. In the room still pointed out
+as Washington's, the fire-place retains the old tiles, "illustrating
+familiar passages in Bible history," fifty on each side, looking as
+clear as if they were made but yesterday.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Once more I walk in the dark old street
+    Wearily to and fro:--
+  But I sit no more on the desolate pier
+    Watching the river flow.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+Mary Phillipse, belle of the neighborhood, and known in tradition as
+Washington's first love, was born in the "Manor House" July 3, 1730.
+Washington first met her on a visit to New York in 1756, after his
+return from Braddock's campaign, as guest of Beverly Robinson, who had
+married her elder sister.
+
+It has been claimed by some writers that he proposed and was rejected,
+but it is doubtful whether he ever was serious in his attentions.
+At least there is no evidence that he ever "told his love," and she
+finally married Col. Roger Morris, one of Washington's associates on
+Braddock's staff. The best part of residential Yonkers lies to the
+northward, beautifully embowered in trees as seen from the Hudson. A
+line of electric street cars run north along Warburton Avenue. The
+street known as Broadway, is a continuation of Broadway, New York.
+Many of the river towns still keep this name, probably prophetic as a
+part of the great Broadway which may extend some day from the Battery
+to Peekskill.
+
+Almost opposite Yonkers a ravine or sort of step-ladder cleft, now
+known as Alpine Gorge, reaches up the precipitous sides of the
+Palisades. The landing here was formerly called Closter's, from which
+a road zigzags to the top of the cliff and thence to Closter Village.
+Here Lord Grey disembarked in October, 1778, and crossed to Hackensack
+Valley, "surprising and massacring Col. Bayler's patriots, despite
+their surrender and calls for mercy."
+
+Indian Head (510 feet) about two miles north of Alpine Gorge, is the
+highest point of the Palisades.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Eve o'er our path is stealing fast;
+  Yon quivering splendors are the last;
+  His latest glories fringe the height
+  Behind us with their golden light.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Yonkers to West Point=
+
+Passing Glenwood, now a suburban station of Yonkers, conspicuous from
+the Colgate mansion near the river bank, built by a descendant of
+the English Colgates who were familiar friends of William Pitt, and
+leaders of the Liberal Club in Kent, England, and "Greystone," once
+the country residence of the late Samuel J. Tilden, Governor of New
+York, and presidential candidate in 1876, we come to
+
+=Hastings=, where a party of Hessians during the Revolutionary
+struggle were surprised and cut to pieces by troops under Colonel
+Sheldon. It was here also that Lord Cornwallis embarked for Fort Lee
+after the capture of Fort Washington, and here in 1850 Garibaldi,
+the liberator of Italy, whose centennial was observed July 4, 1907,
+frequently came to spend the Sabbath and visit friends when he was
+living at Staten Island. Although there is apparently little to
+interest in the village, there are many beautiful residences in the
+immediate neighborhood, and the Old Post road for two miles to the
+northward furnishes a beautiful walk or driveway, well shaded by old
+locust trees. The tract of country from Spuyten Duyvil to Hastings was
+called by the Indians Kekesick and reached east as far as the Bronx
+River.
+
+=Dobbs Ferry= is now at hand, named after an old Swedish ferryman. The
+village has not only a delightful location but it is also beautiful in
+itself. In 1781 it was Washington's headquarters, and the old house,
+still standing, is famous as the spot where General Washington and the
+Count de Rochambeau planned the campaign against Yorktown; where the
+evacuation of New York was arranged by General Clinton and Sir Guy
+Carleton the British commander, and where the first salute to the flag
+of the United States was fired by a British man-of-war. A deep glen,
+known as Paramus, opposite Dobbs Ferry, leads to Tappan and New
+Jersey. Cornwallis landed here in 1776. It is now known as Snedden's
+Landing.
+
+       * * *
+
+    A lovely country for a summer encampment, breezy
+    hills commanding wide prospects, shady valleys watered
+    by bright pastoral streams, the Bronx, the Spraine and
+    the Neperan.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+At Dobbs Ferry, June 14, 1894, the base-stone of a memorial shaft was
+laid with imposing ceremony by the New York State Society of the Sons
+of the American Revolution, which erected the monument. There were one
+thousand Grand Army veterans in line, and addresses by distinguished
+orators and visitors. The Society and its guests, including members
+of the cabinet, officers of the army and navy, and prominent men of
+various States, accompanied by full Marine Band of the navy yard, with
+a detachment of Naval Reserves, participated in the event.
+
+Voyagers up the river that day saw the "Miantonomoh" and the
+"Lancaster," under the command of Rear-Admiral Gherardi, anchored
+mid-stream to take part in the exercises. During the Revolution this
+historic house was leased by a Dutch farmer holding under Frederick
+Phillipse as landlord. After the war it was purchased by Peter
+Livingston and known since as the Livingston House. Arnold and Andre
+were to have met here but providentially for the American cause, the
+meeting took place at Haverstraw.
+
+The Indian name of Dobbs Ferry was Wecquaskeck, and it is said by
+Ruttenber that the outlines of the old Indian village can still be
+traced by numerous shell-beds. It was located at the mouth of Wicker's
+Creek which was called by the Indians Wysquaqua.
+
+=Tappan Zee.=--The steamer is now entering Irving's rich domain, and
+Tappan Zee lapping the threshold of "Sunnyside," seems almost a part
+of his very dooryard. The river, which has averaged about a mile in
+breadth, begins to gradually widen at Hastings, and almost seems like
+a gentle, reposeful lake.
+
+=Piermont=, whose "mile-long-pier," built many years ago by the Erie
+Railroad, hardly mars the landscape so great is the majesty of the
+river, is seen on the west bank with Tower Hill rising above it from
+which four states are seen. The view includes Long Island, the Sound
+and the Orange Mountains on the south, with the Catskills to the north
+and Berkshires to the northeast. Louis Gaylord Clark, a friend of
+Irving, and an early literary associate had a cottage on Piermont
+Hills.
+
+       * * *
+
+    We have a charming position for our French encampment
+    along the Hudson among rocks and under magnificent tulip trees.
+
+    _Count Dumas._
+
+       * * *
+
+Turning to the eastern shore, we see "Nuits," the Cottinet residence,
+Italian in style, built of Caen stone, "Nevis," home of the late Col.
+James Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamilton, the George L. Schuyler
+mansion, the late Cyrus W. Field's, and many pleasant places about
+Abbotsford, and come to
+
+=Irvington=, on the east bank, 24 miles from New York, once known as
+Dearman's, but changed in compliment to the great writer and lover of
+the Hudson, who after a long sojourn in foreign lands, returned to
+live by the tranquil waters of Tappan Zee. In a letter to his brother
+he refers to Sleepy Hollow as the favorite resort of his boyhood, and
+says: "The Hudson is in a manner my first and last love, and after
+all my wanderings and seeming infidelities, I return to it with
+a heartfelt preference over all the rivers of the world." As at
+Stratford-on-Avon every flower is redolent of Shakespeare, and at
+Melrose every stone speaks of Walter Scott, so here on every breeze
+floats the spirit of Washington Irving. A short walk of half a mile
+north from the station brings us to his much-loved
+
+="Sunnyside."= Irving aptly describes it in one of his stories as
+"made up of gable-ends, and full of angles and corners as an old
+cocked hat. It is said, in fact, to have been modeled after the hat of
+Peter the Headstrong, as the Escurial of Spain was fashioned after the
+gridiron of the blessed St. Lawrence." Wolfert's Roost, as it was once
+styled (Roost signifying Rest), took its name from Wolfert Acker, a
+former owner. It consisted originally of ten acres when purchased by
+Irving in 1835, but eight acres were afterwards added. With great
+humor Irving put above the porch entrance "George Harvey, Boum'r,"
+Boumeister being an old Dutch word for architect. A storm-worn
+weather-cock, "which once battled with the wind on the top of the
+Stadt House of New Amsterdam in the time of Peter Stuyvesant, erects
+his crest on the gable, and a gilded horse in full gallop, once the
+weather-cock of the great Van der Heyden palace of Albany, glitters in
+the sunshine, veering with every breeze, on the peaked turret over the
+portal."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Irving chose his residence in the valley, not amid
+    the mountains; by the fields and meadows of the broad
+    Tappan Zee, rather than the Highlands; in a congenial
+    region suited to his temperament.
+
+    _Dr. Bethune._
+
+       * * *
+
+About fifty years ago a cutting of Walter Scott's favorite ivy at
+Melrose Abbey was transported across the Atlantic, and trained over
+the porch of "Sunnyside," by the hand of Mrs. Renwick, daughter of
+Rev. Andrew Jeffrey of Lochmaben, known in girlhood as the "Bonnie
+Jessie" of Annandale, or the "Blue-eyed Lassie" of Robert Burns:--a
+graceful tribute, from the shrine of Waverley to the nest of
+Knickerbocker:
+
+  A token of friendship immortal
+    With Washington Irving returns:--
+  Scott's ivy entwined o'er his portal
+    By the Blue-eyed Lassie of Burns.
+
+Scott's cordial greeting at Abbotsford, and his persistence in getting
+Murray to reconsider the publication of the "Sketch Book," which he
+had previously declined, were never forgotten by Irving. It was during
+a critical period of his literary career, and the kindness of the
+Great Magician, in directing early attention to his genius, is still
+cherished by every reader of the "Sketch Book" from Manhattan to
+San Francisco. The hearty grasp of the Minstrel at the gateway of
+Abbotsford was in reality a warm handshake to a wider brotherhood
+beyond the sea.
+
+       * * *
+
+  In purple tints woven together
+    The Hudson shakes hands with the Tweed,
+  Commingling with Abbotsford's heather
+    The clover of Sunnyside's mead.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Washington Irving.=--While he was building "Sunnyside," a letter came
+from Daniel Webster, then Secretary of State, appointing him minister
+to Spain. It was unexpected and unsolicited, and Webster remarked that
+day to a friend: "Washington Irving to-day will be the most surprised
+man in America." Irving had already shown diplomatic ability in London
+in promoting the settlement of the "North Western Boundary," and his
+appointment was received with universal favor. Then as now Sunnyside
+was already a Mecca for travelers, and, among many well-known to fame,
+was a young man, afterwards Napoleon the Third. Referring to his
+visit, Irving wrote in 1853: "Napoleon and Eugenie, Emperor and
+Empress! The one I have had as a guest at my cottage, the other I have
+held as a pet child upon my knee in Granada. The last I saw of Eugenie
+Montijo, she was one of the reigning belles of Madrid; now, she is
+upon the throne, launched from a returnless shore, upon a dangerous
+sea, infamous for its tremendous shipwrecks. Am I to live to see the
+catastrophe of her career, and the end of this suddenly conjured up
+empire, which seems to be of such stuff as dreams are made of?
+I confess my personal acquaintance with the individuals in this
+historical romance gives me uncommon interest in it; but I consider
+it stamped with danger and instability, and as liable to extravagant
+vicissitudes as one of Dumas' novels." A wonderful prophecy completely
+fulfilled in the short space of seventeen years.
+
+       * * *
+
+    How many such men as Washington Irving are there
+    in America. God don't send many such spirits into this
+    world.
+
+    _Lord Byron._
+
+       * * *
+
+The aggregate sale of Irving's works when he received his portfolio
+to Spain was already more than half a million copies, with an equal
+popularity achieved in Britain. No writer was ever more truly loved
+on both sides of the Atlantic, and his name is cherished to-day in
+England as fondly as it is in our own country. It has been the good
+fortune of the writer to spend many a delightful day in the very
+centre of Merrie England, in the quiet town of Stratford-on-Avon,
+and feel the gentle companionship of Irving. Of all writers who have
+brought to Stratford their heart homage Irving stands the acknowledged
+chief. The sitting-room in the "Red Horse Hotel," where he was
+disturbed in his midnight reverie, is still called Irving's room, and
+the walls are hung with portraits taken at different periods of his
+life. Mine host said that visitors from every land were as much
+interested in this room as in Shakespeare's birth-place. The remark
+may have been intensified to flatter an American visitor, but there
+are few names dearer to the Anglo-Saxon race than that on the plain
+headstone in the burial-yard of Sleepy Hollow. Sunnyside is scarcely
+visible to the Day Line tourist. A little gleam of color here
+and there amid the trees, close to the river bank, near a small
+boat-house, merely indicates its location; and the traveler by train
+has only a hurried glimpse, as it is within one hundred feet of the
+New York Central Railroad. Tappan Zee, at this point, is a little more
+than two miles wide and over the beautiful expanse Irving has thrown
+a wondrous charm. There is, in fact, "magic in the web" of all his
+works. A few modern critics, lacking appreciation alike for humor and
+genius, may regard his essays as a thing of the past, but as long as
+the Mahicanituk, the ever-flowing Hudson, pours its waters to the
+sea, as long as Rip Van Winkle sleeps in the blue Catskills, or the
+"Headless Horseman" rides at midnight along the Old Post Road _en
+route_ for Teller's Point, so long will the writings of Washington
+Irving be remembered and cherished. We somehow feel the reality of
+every legend he has given us. The spring bubbling up near his cottage
+was brought over, as he gravely tells us, in a churn from Holland by
+one of the old time settlers, and we are half inclined to believe it;
+and no one ever thinks of doubting that the "Flying Dutchman," Mynheer
+Van Dam, has been rowing for two hundred years and never made a port.
+It is in fact still said by the old inhabitants, that often in the
+soft twilight of summer evenings, when the sea is like glass and the
+opposite hills throw their shadows across it, that the low vigorous
+pull of oars is heard but no boat is seen.
+
+[Illustration: NORTHERN POINT OF PALISADES]
+
+       * * *
+
+    Here was no castle in the air, but a realized day-dream.
+    Irving was there, as genial, humorous and imaginative
+    as if he had never wandered from the primal
+    haunts of his childhood and his fame.
+
+    _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to Irving "Sunnyside" was once the property of old Baltus
+Van Tassel, and here lived the fair Katrina, beloved by all the youths
+of the neighborhood, but more especially by Ichabod Crane, the country
+school-master, and a reckless youth by the name of Van Brunt. Irving
+tells us that he thought out the story one morning on London Bridge,
+and went home and completed it in thirty-six hours. The character of
+Ichabod Crane was a sketch of a young man whom he met at Kinderhook
+when writing his Knickerbocker history. It will be remembered that
+Ichabod Crane went to a quilting-bee at the home of Mynheer Van
+Tassel, and, after the repast, was regaled with various ghost stories
+peculiar to the locality. When the "party" was over he lingered for
+a time with the fair Katrina, but sallied out soon after with an air
+quite desolate and chop-fallen. The night grew darker and darker. He
+had never before felt so lonesome and miserable. As he passed the
+fatal tree where Arnold was captured, there started up before him the
+identical "Headless Horseman" to whom he had been introduced by the
+story of Brom Bones. Nay, not entirely headless; for the head which
+"should have rested upon his shoulders was carried before him on the
+pommel of the saddle. His terror rose to desperation. He rode for
+death and life. The strange horseman sped beside him at an equal pace.
+He fell into a walk. The strange horseman did the same. He endeavored
+to sing a psalm-tune, but his tongue clove to the roof of his mouth.
+If he could but reach the bridge Ichabod thought he would be safe.
+Away then he flew in rapid flight. He reached the bridge, he thundered
+over the resounding planks. Then he saw the goblin rising in his
+stirrups, and in the very act of launching his head at him. It
+encountered his cranium with a tremendous crash. He was tumbled
+headlong into the dirt, and the black steed and the spectral rider
+passed by like a whirlwind. The next day tracks of horses deeply
+dented in the road were traced to the bridge, beyond which, on the
+bank of a broad part of the brook, where the water ran deep and black,
+was found the hat of the unfortunate Ichabod, and close beside it a
+shattered pumpkin." All honor to him who fills this working-day world
+with humor, romance and beauty!
+
+       * * *
+
+    I beg you will have the kindness to let me know when
+    Mr. Irving takes pen in hand again; for assuredly I
+    shall expect a very great treat which I may chance never
+    to hear of but through your kindness.
+
+    _Walter Scott._
+
+       * * *
+
+    I want to visit Washington Irving, I want to see your
+    stupendous scenery, I want to go to the grave of
+    Washington.
+
+    _Lord Byron._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lyndehurst=, Helen M. Gould's residence. A short distance north of
+"Sunnyside" is the home of Helen M. Gould, whose modest and liberal
+use of wealth in noble charities has endeared her to every American
+heart. The place was first known as the Paulding Manor House, where
+William Paulding, early mayor of New York, and nephew of one of the
+captors of Andre had his country home. It is a beautiful specimen of
+old time English architecture, with a suggestion, as some writers have
+noted, of Newstead Abbey. This part of the Hudson is particularly rich
+in beautiful residences, rising tier upon tier from the river to the
+horizon. Albert Bierstadt, the artist, had here a beautiful home,
+unfortunately burned many years ago.
+
+=The Old Post Road= from New York to Albany is in many particulars the
+richest and greatest highway of our country.
+
+=Tappan.=--Almost opposite Irvington about two miles southwest of
+Piermont, is old Tappantown, where Major Andre was executed October
+2, 1780. The removal of his body from Tappan to Westminster was by a
+special British ship, and a singular incident was connected with it.
+The roots of a cypress tree were found entwined about his skull and a
+scion from the tree was carried to England and planted in the garden
+adjoining Windsor Palace. It is a still more curious fact that the
+tree beneath which Andre was captured was struck by lightning on the
+day of Benedict Arnold's death in London. Further reference will be
+made to Andre in our description of Tarrytown, and also of Haverstraw,
+where Arnold and Andre met at the house of Joshua Hett Smith.
+
+=Tarrytown=, 26 miles from New York. It was here on the Old Post Road,
+now called Broadway, a little north of the village, that Andre was
+captured and Arnold's treachery exposed. A monument erected on the
+spot by the people of Westchester County, October 7, 1853, bears the
+inscription:
+
+ON THIS SPOT, THE 23D DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1780, THE SPY,
+                   MAJOR JOHN ANDRE,
+  Adjutant-General of the British Army, was captured by
+   JOHN PAULDING, DAVID WILLIAMS, AND ISAAC VAN WART.
+               ALL NATIVES OF THIS COUNTY.
+               History has told the rest.
+
+The following quaint ballad-verses on the young hero give a realistic
+touch to one of the most providential occurrences in our history:
+
+  He with a scouting party
+    Went down to Tarrytown,
+  Where he met a British officer,
+    A man of high renown,
+  Who says unto these gentlemen,
+    "You're of the British cheer,
+  I trust that you can tell me
+    If there's any danger near?"
+
+  Then up stept this young hero,
+    John Paulding was his name,
+  "Sir, tell us where you're going
+    And also whence you came?"
+  "I bear the British flag, sir;
+    I've a pass to go this way,
+  I'm on an expedition,
+    And have no time to stay."
+
+Young Paulding, however, thought that he had plenty of time to linger
+until he examined his boots, wherein he found the papers, and, when
+offered ten guineas by Andre, if he would allow him to pursue his
+journey, replied: "If it were ten thousand guineas you could not stir
+one step."
+
+The centennial anniversary of the event was commemorated in 1880 by
+placing, through the generosity of John Anderson, on the original
+obelisk of 1853, a large statue representing John Paulding as a minute
+man.
+
+       * * *
+
+    That overruling Providence which has so often and so
+    remarkably interposed in our favor, never manifested
+    itself more conspicuously than in the timely discovery
+    of Arnold's treachery.
+
+    _George Washington._
+
+       * * *
+
+Tarrytown was the very heart of the debatable ground of the Revolution
+and many striking incidents mark its early history. In 1777 Vaughan's
+troops landed here on their way to attack Fort Montgomery, and here a
+party of Americans, under Major Hunt, surprised a number of British
+refugees while playing cards at the Van Tassel tavern. The major
+completely "turned the cards" upon them by rushing in with brandished
+stick, which he brought down with emphasis upon the table, remarking
+with genuine American brevity, "Gentlemen, clubs are trumps." Here,
+too, according to Irving, arose the two great orders of chivalry, the
+"Cow Boys" and "Skinners." The former fought, or rather marauded under
+the American, the latter under the British banner; the former were
+known as "Highlanders," the latter as the "Lower-Party." In the zeal
+of service both were apt to make blunders, and confound the property
+of friend and foe. "Neither of them, in the heat and hurry of a foray,
+had time to ascertain the politics of a horse or cow which they were
+driving off into captivity, nor when they wrung the neck of a rooster
+did they trouble their heads whether he crowed for Congress or King
+George."
+
+It was also a genial, reposeful country for the faithful historian,
+Diedrich Knickerbocker; and here he picked up many of those legends
+which were given by him to the world. One of these was the legend
+connected with the old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow. "A drowsy,
+dreamy influence seems to hang over the land, and to pervade the very
+atmosphere. Some say the place was bewitched by a high German doctor
+during the early days of the settlement; others that an old Indian
+chief, the wizard of his tribe, held his pow-wows there before
+Hendrick Hudson's discovery of the river. The dominant spirit,
+however, that haunts this enchanted region, is the apparition of
+a figure on horse-back, without a head, said to be the ghost of a
+Hessian trooper, and was known at all the country firesides as the
+'Headless horseman' of Sleepy Hollow."
+
+       * * *
+
+  O waters of Pocantico!
+    Wild rivulet of wood and glen!
+  May thy glad laughter, sweet and low,
+    Long, long outlive the sighs of men.
+
+  _S. H. Thayer._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: SLEEPY HOLLOW CHURCH.]
+
+=Sleepy Hollow.=--The Old Dutch Church, the oldest on the Hudson, is
+about one-half mile north from Tarrytown.
+
+It was built by "Frederick Filipse and his wife Katrina Van Cortland
+in 1690." The material is partly of stone and partly of brick brought
+from Holland. It stands as an appropriate sentinel near the entrance
+to the burial-yard where Irving sleeps. After entering the gate our
+way leads past the graves of the Ackers, the Van Tassels, and the Van
+Warts, with inscriptions and plump Dutch cherubs on every side
+that often delighted the heart of Diedrich Knickerbocker. How many
+worshippers since that November day in 1859, have come hither with
+reverent footsteps to read on the plain slab this simple inscription:
+"Washington Irving, born April 3, 1783. Died November 28, 1859," and
+recall Longfellow's beautiful lines:
+
+  "Here lies the gentle humorist, who died
+    In the bright Indian Summer of his fame.
+    A simple stone, with but a date and name,
+  Marks his secluded resting place beside
+  The river that he loved and glorified.
+    Here in the Autumn of his days he came,
+    But the dry leaves of life were all aflame
+  With tints that brightened and were multiplied.
+  How sweet a life was his, how sweet a death;
+  Living to wing with mirth the weary hours,
+    Or with romantic tales the heart to cheer;
+  Dying to leave a memory like the breath
+  Of Summers full of sunshine and of showers,
+    A grief and gladness in the atmosphere."
+
+       * * *
+
+    If ever I should wish for a retreat whither I might
+    steal from the world and its distractions, and dream
+    quietly away the remnant of a troubled life, I know of
+    none more promising than this little valley.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+Sleepy Hollow Church, like Sunnyside, is hidden away from the steamer
+tourist by summer foliage. Just before reaching Kingston Point
+light-house, a view, looking northeast up the little bay to the right,
+will sometimes give the outline of the building. Beyond this a tall
+granite shaft, erected by the Delavan family, is generally quite
+distinctly seen, and this is near the grave of Irving. A light-house,
+built in 1883, marks the point where the Pocantico or Sleepy Hollow
+Creek joins the Hudson:
+
+  Pocantico's hushed waters glide
+    Through Sleepy Hollow's haunted ground,
+  And whisper to the listening tide
+    The name carved o'er one lowly mound.
+
+To one loving our early history and legends there is no spot more
+central or delightful than Tarrytown. Irving humorously says that
+Tarrytown took its name from husbands tarrying too late at the village
+tavern, but its real derivation is Tarwen-Dorp, or Wheat-town. The
+name of the old Indian village at this point was Alipconck (the place
+of elms). It has often occurred to the writer that, more than any
+other river, the Hudson has a distinct personality, and also that
+the four main divisions of human life are particularly marked in the
+Adirondacks, the Catskills, the Highlands and Tappan Bay:
+
+  The Adirondacks, childhood's glee;
+    The Catskills, youth with dreams o'ercast;
+  The Highlands, manhood bold and free;
+    The Tappan Zee, age come at last.
+
+This was the spot that Irving loved; we linger by his grave at
+Sleepy Hollow with devotion; we sit upon his porch at Sunnyside with
+reverence:
+
+  Thrice blest and happy Tappan Zee,
+    Whose banks along thy glistening tide
+  Have legend, truth, and poetry
+    Sweetly expressed in Sunnyside!
+
+
+       * * *
+
+   Whose golden fancy wove a spell
+    As lasting as the scene is fair
+  And made the mountain stream and dell
+    His own dream-life forever share.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Nyack=, on the west side, 27 miles from New York. The village,
+including Upper Nyack, West Nyack and South Nyack, has many fine
+suburban homes and lies in a semi-circle of hills which sweep back
+from Piermont, meeting the river again at the northern end of Tappan
+Zee. Tappan is derived from an Indian tribe of that name, which, being
+translated, is said to signify cold water. The bay is ten miles in
+length, with an average breadth of about two miles and a half.
+
+Nyack grows steadily in favor as a place for summer residents. The
+hotels, boarding-houses and suburban homes would increase the census
+as given to nearly ten thousand people. The _West Shore Railroad_ is
+two and a half miles from the Hudson, with (a) station at West Nyack. The
+_Northern Railroad of New Jersey_, leased by the _New York, Lake Erie
+and Western_ (Chambers Street and 23d Street, New York), passes west
+of the Bergen Hills and the Palisades. The Ramapo Mountains, north
+of Nyack, were formerly known by ancient mariners as the Hook, or
+Point-no-Point. They come down to the river in little headlands, the
+points of which disappear as the steamer nears them. (The peak to the
+south, known as Hook Mountain, is 730 feet high.) Ball Mountain above
+this, and nearer the river, 650 feet. They were sometimes called by
+Dutch captains Verditege Hook.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The sails hung idly all night long,
+    I dreamed a dream of you and me;
+  'Twas sweeter than the sweetest song,--
+    The dream I dreamed on Tappan Zee.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: STONY POINT]
+
+Perhaps it took so long to pass these illusive headlands, reaching as
+they do eight miles along the western bank, that it naturally seemed a
+_very tedious_ point to the old skippers. Midway in this Ramapo Range,
+"set in a dimple of the hills," is--
+
+=Rockland Lake=, source of the Hackensack River, one hundred and fifty
+feet above the Hudson. The "slide way," by which the ice is sent down
+to the boats to be loaded, can be seen from the steamer, and the
+blocks in motion, as seen by the traveler, resemble little white pigs
+running down an inclined plane. As we look at the great ice-houses
+to-day, which, like uncouth barns, stand here and there along the
+Hudson, it does not seem possible that only a few years ago ice was
+decidedly unpopular, and wheeled about New York in a hand-cart. Think
+of one hand-cart supplying New York with ice! It was considered
+unhealthy, and called forth many learned discussions.
+
+Returning to the east bank, we see above Tarrytown many superb
+residences, notably "Rockwood," the home of William Rockefeller, of
+the Standard Oil Company. The estate of General James Watson Webb is
+also near at hand. Passing Scarborough Landing, with the Hook Mountain
+and Ball Mountains on the left, we see
+
+=Ossining=, formerly known as Sing Sing, on east bank. The low
+buildings, near the river bank, are the State's Prison. They are
+constructed of marble, but are not considered palatial by the
+prisoners that occupy the cells. It was quarried near by, and the
+prisons were built by convicts imported from Auburn in 1826. Saddlery,
+furniture, shoes, etc., are manufactured within its walls. There was
+an Indian chieftancy here known as the Sintsinks. In a deed to Philip
+Phillipse in 1685 a stream is referred to as "Kitchewan called by the
+Indians Sink-Sink." The Indian Village was known as Ossining, from
+"ossin" a stone and "ing" a place, probably so called from the rocky
+and stony character of the river banks.
+
+       * * *
+
+  How many, at this hour, along thy course,
+  Slumber to thine eternal murmurings
+  That mingle with the utterance of their dreams.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+The heights above Tappan Zee at this point are crowned by fine
+residences, and the village is one of the pleasantest on the river.
+The drives among the hills are delightful and present a wide and
+charming outlook. Here also are several flourishing military boarding
+schools and a seminary for girls. The old silver and copper mines once
+worked here never yielded satisfactory returns for invested capital.
+Various industries give active life and prosperity to the town. Just
+above Sing Sing
+
+=Croton River=, known by the Indians as Kitchawonk, joins the
+Hudson in a bay crossed by the _New York Central Railroad_ Croton
+draw-bridge. East of this point is a water shed having an area of 350
+square miles, which supplies New York with water. The Croton Reservoir
+is easily reached by a pleasant carriage drive from Sing Sing, and it
+is a singular fact that the pitcher and ice-cooler of New York, or in
+other words, Croton Dam and Rockland Lake, should be almost opposite.
+About fifty years ago the Croton first made its appearance in New
+York, brought in by an aqueduct of solid masonry which follows the
+course of the Hudson near the Old Post Road, or at an average distance
+of about a mile from the east bank. Here and there its course can be
+traced by "white stone ventilating towers" from Sing Sing to High
+Bridge, which conveys the aqueduct across the Harlem River. Its
+capacity is 100,000,000 gallons per day, which however began to be
+inadequate for the city and a new aqueduct was therefore begun in 1884
+and completed in 1890, capable of carrying three times that amount, at
+a cost of $25,000,000. The water-shed is well supplied with streams
+and lakes. Lake Mahopac, one of its fountains, is one of the most
+beautiful sheets of water near the metropolis, and easily accessible
+by a pleasant drive from Peekskill, or by the _Harlem Railroad_ from
+New York. The old Indian name was Ma-cook-pake, signifying a large
+inland lake, or perhaps an island near the shore. The same derivation
+is also seen in Copake Lake, Columbia County. On an island of Mahopac
+the last great "convention" of the southern tribes of the Hudson was
+held. The lake is about 800 feet above tide, and it is pleasant to
+know that the bright waters of Mahopac and the clear streams of Putnam
+and Westchester are conveyed to New York even as the poetic waters of
+Loch Katrine to the city of Glasgow. The Catskill water supply, the
+ground of which was broken in 1907, is referred to in our description
+of Cold Spring and the Catskills.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Round the aqueducts of story
+    As the mists of Lethe throng
+  Croton's waves in all their glory
+    Troop in melody along.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+Just above Croton Bay and the _New York Central Railroad_ draw-bridge
+will be seen the old Van Cortlandt Manor, where Frederick Phillipse
+and Katrina Van Cortlandt were married, as seen by the inscription on
+the old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow.
+
+=Teller's Point= (sometimes known as Croton or Underhill's Point),
+separates Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay. It was called by the Indians
+"Senasqua." Tradition says that ancient warriors still haunt the
+surrounding glens and woods, and the sachems of Teller's Point are
+household words in the neighborhood. It is also said that there was
+once a great Indian battle here, and perhaps the ghosts of the old
+warriors are attracted by the Underhill grapery and the 10,000 gallons
+of wine bottled every season.
+
+It was here the British warship "The Vulture," came with Andre and put
+him ashore at the foot of Mount Tor below Haverstraw.
+
+The river now opens into a beautiful bay, four miles in width,--a bed
+large enough to tuck up fifteen River Rhines side by side. This reach
+sometimes seems in the bright sunlight like a molten bay of silver,
+and the tourist finds relief in adjusting his smoked glasses to temper
+the dazzling light.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beneath these gold and azure skies
+    The river winds through leafy glades,
+  Save where, like battlements, arise
+    The gray and tufted Palisades.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Haverstraw=, 37 miles from New York. Haverstraw Bay is sometimes said
+to be five miles wide. Its widest point, however, from Croton Landing
+to Haverstraw, is, according to United States Geological Survey,
+a little over four miles. The principal industry of Haverstraw is
+brick-making, and its brick yards reaching north to Grassy Point, are
+of materal profit, if not picturesque. The place was called Haverstraw
+by the Dutch, perhaps as a place of rye straw, to distinguish it from
+Tarrytown, a place of wheat. The Indian name has been lost; but, if
+its original derivation is uncertain, it at least calls up the rhyme
+of old-time river captains, which Captain Anderson of the "Mary
+Powell" told the writer he used to hear frequently when a boy:
+
+  "West Point and Middletown,
+  Konnosook and Doodletown,
+  Kakiak and Mamapaw,
+  Stony Point and Haverstraw."
+
+Quaint as these names now sound, they all are found on old maps of the
+Hudson.
+
+=High Torn= is the name of the northern point of the Ramapo on the
+west bank, south of Haverstraw. According to the Coast Survey, it is
+820 feet above tide-water, and the view from the summit is grand and
+extensive. The origin of the name is not clear, but it has lately
+occurred to the writer, from a re-reading of Scott's "Peveril of the
+Peak," that it might have been named from the Torn, a mountain in
+Derbyshire, either from its appearance, or by some patriotic settler
+from the central water-shed of England. Others say it is the
+Devonshire word Tor changed to Torn, evidently derived from the same
+source.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Emerging from these confused piles, the river as if
+    rejoicing at its release from its struggle, expanded into
+    a wide bay, which was ornamented by a few fertile and
+    low points that jutted humbly into its broad basin.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+=West Shore Railroad.=--The tourist will see at this point, on the
+left bank of the river, the tunnel whereby the "West Shore" finds
+egress from the mountains. The traveler over this railway, on emerging
+from the quiet valley west of the Palisades, comes upon a sudden
+vision of beauty unrivaled in any land. The broad river seems like a
+great inland lake; and the height of the tunnel above the silver bay
+gives to the panoramic landscape a wondrous charm. About a mile from
+the river, southwest of Grassy Point, on the farther side of the
+winding Minnissickuongo Creek, which finally after long meandering
+makes up its mind to glide into Stony Point Bay, will be seen Treason
+Hill marked by the Joshua Hett Smith stone house where Arnold and
+Andre met. The story of this meeting will be referred to at greater
+length in connection with its most dramatic incident at the old
+Beverley House in the Highlands. The Hudson here is about two miles
+in width and narrows rapidly as we pass Grassy Point on the west bank
+with its meadows and brick yards to
+
+=Stony Point=, where it is scarcely more than half a mile to
+Verplank's Point on the eastern bank. This was, therefore, an
+important pass during the Revolution. The crossing near at hand was
+known as King's Ferry, at and before the days of '76, and was quite an
+avenue of travel between the Southern, Middle and Eastern States. The
+fort crowning a commanding headland, was captured by the British, June
+1, 1779, but it was surprised and recaptured by Anthony Wayne, July
+15 of the same year. A centennial was observed at the place July 15,
+1879, when the battle was "refought" and the West Point Cadets showed
+how they would have done it if they had been on hand a century ago.
+Thackeray, in his "Virginians," gives perhaps the most graphic account
+of this midnight battle. The present light-house occupies the site of
+the old fort, and was built in part of stone taken from its walls.
+Upon its capture by the British, Washington, whose headquarters were
+at New Windsor, meditated a bold stroke and summoned Anthony Wayne,
+more generally known as "Mad Anthony," from his reckless daring, to
+undertake its recapture with a force of one thousand picked men. The
+lines were formed in two columns about 8 p.m. at "Springsteel's farm."
+Each soldier and officer put a piece of white paper in his hat to
+distinguish him from the foe. No guns were to be loaded under penalty
+of death. General Wayne, at the head of the column, forded the marsh
+covered at the time with two feet of water. The other column led by
+Butler and Murfree crossed an apology for a bridge. During the advance
+both columns were discovered by the British sentinels and the rocky
+defense literally blazed with musketry. In stern silence, however,
+without faltering, the American columns moved forward, entered the
+abatis, until the advance guard under Anthony Wayne was within the
+enemy's works. A bullet at this moment struck Wayne in the forehead
+grazing his skull. Quickly recovering from the shock, he rose to his
+knees, shouted: "Forward, my brave fellows"; then turning to two of
+his followers, he asked them to help him into the fort that he might
+die, if it were to be so, "in possession of the spot." Both columns
+were now at hand and inspired by the brave general, came pouring
+in, crying "The fort's our own." The British troops completely
+overwhelmed, were fain to surrender and called for mercy. Wayne's
+characteristic message to Washington antedates modern telegraphic
+brevity:--"Stony Point, 2 o'clock a.m. The American flag waves
+here.--Mad Anthony." There were twenty killed and sixty wounded on
+each side. Some five hundred of the enemy were captured and about
+sixty escaped. "Money rewards and medals were given to Wayne and
+the leaders in the assault. The ordinance and stores captured were
+appraised at over $180,000 and there was universal rejoicing"
+throughout the land. "Stony Point State Park" was dedicated by
+appropriate ceremony July 16, 1902. At the close of Governor Odell's
+address the flag was raised by William Wayne, a lineal descendant of
+the hero, and the cruiser "Olympia" of Manila fame boomed forth her
+tribute. Verplank's Point, on the east bank (now full of brick-making
+establishments), was the site of Fort Lafayette. It was here that
+Baron Steuben drilled the soldiers of the American army. Back from
+Green Cove above Verplanck's Point is "Knickerbocker Lake."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The star spangled banner, the flag of the brave,
+  And the cross of old England in amity wave,
+  But if ever the nations do battle again
+  God send us such soldiers as Anthony Wayne.
+
+  _Minna Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+  The echoes that so boldly rung
+    When cannon flashed from steep to steep,
+  And freedom's airy challenge flung,
+    In each romantic valley sleep.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Tompkin's Cove.=--North of Stony Point we see great quarries of
+limestone, the principal industry of the village of Tompkin's Cove.
+Gravel is also shipped from this place for Central Park roads and
+driveways in New York City. The tourist, looking north from the
+forward deck of the steamer, sees no opening in the mountains, and
+it is amusing to hear the various conjectures of the passengers; as
+usual, the "unexpected" happens. The steamer turns to the left and
+sweeps at once into the grand scenery of the Highlands. The straight
+forward course, which seems the more natural, would land the steamer
+against the _Hudson River Railroad_, crossing the Peekskill River.
+It is said that an old skipper, Jans Peek, ran up this stream, years
+before the railroad was built, and did not know that he had left the
+Hudson, or rather that the Hudson was "left" until he ran aground in
+the shoal water of the bay. The next morning he discovered that it was
+a goodly land, and the place bears his name unto this day.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Highlands and the Palisades
+    Mirror their beauty in the tide,
+  The history of whose forest shades
+    A nation reads with conscious pride.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Peekskill=, 40 miles from New York, is a pleasant city on the quiet
+bay which deeply indents the eastern bank. The property in this
+vicinity was known as Rycks Patent in 1665. In Revolutionary times
+Fort Independence stood on the point above, where its ruins are still
+seen. The Franciscan Convent Academy of "Our Lady of Angels," guards
+the point below. In 1797 Peekskill was the headquarters of old Israel
+Putnam, who rivaled "Mad Anthony" in brevity as well as courage. It
+will be remembered that Palmer was here captured as a spy. A British
+officer wrote a letter asking his reprieve, to which Putnam replied,
+"Nathan Palmer was taken as a spy, tried as a spy and will be hanged
+as a spy. P. S.--He is hanged." This was the birthplace of Paulding,
+one of Andre's captors, and he died here in 1818. He is buried in the
+old rural cemetery about two miles and a half from the village, and a
+monument has been erected to his memory. Near at hand is the "Wayside
+Inn," where Andre once "tarried," also the Hillside Cemetery, where on
+June 19, 1898, the 123d anniversary of the battle of Bunker Hill, a
+monument was unveiled to General Pomeroy by the Society of the Sons of
+Revolution, New York. The church which Washington attended is in good
+preservation.
+
+Near Peekskill is the old Van Cortlandt house, the residence of
+Washington for a short time during the Revolution. East of the village
+was the summer home of the great pulpit orator, Henry Ward Beecher.
+Peekskill was known by the Indians as Sackhoes in the territory of the
+Kitchawongo, which extended from Croton River to Anthony's Nose.
+
+[Illustration: SOUTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS]
+
+Turning Caldwell's Landing or Jones' Point, formerly known as Kidd's
+Point, almost at right angles, the steamer enters the southern gate of
+the Highlands. At the water edge will be seen some upright planks or
+caissons marking the spot where Kidd's ship was supposed to have been
+scuttled. As his history seems to be intimately associated with the
+Hudson, we will give it in brief:
+
+=The Story of Captain Kidd.=--"My name was Captain Kidd as I sailed,"
+are famous lines of an old ballad which was once familiar to our
+grandfathers. The hapless hero of the same was born about the middle
+of the seventeenth century, and it is thought, near Greenock,
+Scotland. He resided at one time in New York, near the corner of
+William and Cedar Streets, and was there married. In April, 1696, he
+sailed from England in command of the "Adventure Galley," with full
+armament and eighty men. He captured a French ship, and, on arrival at
+New York, put up articles for volunteers; remained in New York three
+or four months, increasing his crew to one hundred and fifty-five
+men, and sailed thence to Madras, thence to Bonavista and St. Jago,
+Madagascar, then to Calicut, then to Madagascar again, then sailed and
+took the "Quedah Merchant." Kidd kept forty shares of the spoils, and
+divided the rest with his crew. He then burned the "Adventure Galley,"
+went on board the "Quedah Merchant," and steered for the West Indies.
+Here he left the "Merchant," with part of his crew, under one Bolton,
+as commander. Then manned a sloop, and taking part of his spoils, went
+to Boston via Long Island Sound, and is said to have set goods on
+shore at different places. In the meantime, in August, 1698, the East
+Indian Company informed the Lords Justice that Kidd had committed
+several acts of piracy, particularly in seizing a Moor's ship called
+the "Quedah Merchant." When Kidd landed at Boston he was therefore
+arrested by the Earl of Bellamont, and sent to England for trial,
+1699, where he was found guilty and executed. Now it is supposed that
+the crew of the "Quedah Merchant," which Kidd left at Hispaniola,
+sailed for their homes, as the crew was mostly gathered from the
+Highlands and above. It is said that they passed New York in the
+night, _en route_ to the manor of Livingston; but encountering a gale
+in the Highlands, and thinking they were pursued, ran her near the
+shore, now known as Kidd's Point, and here scuttled her, the crew
+fleeing to the woods with such treasure as they could carry. Whether
+this circumstance was true or not, it was at least a current story in
+the neighborhood, and an enterprising individual, about fifty years
+ago, _caused an old cannon_ to be "discovered" in the river, and
+perpetrated the first "Cardiff Giant Hoax." A New York Stock Company
+was organized to prosecute the work. It was said that the ship could
+be seen in clear days, with her masts still standing, many fathoms
+below the surface. One thing is certain--the company did not see it or
+the _treasurer_ either, in whose hands were deposited about $30,000.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beauty and majesty on either hand
+  Have shared thy waters with their common realm.
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Their summits are the first to meet
+     The morning's golden ray,
+  And last to catch the crimson fires
+    That warm the dying day.
+
+  _Minna Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+On the west shore rise the rock-beaten crags of--
+
+=The Dunderberg=, the dread of the Dutch mariners. This hill,
+according to Irving, was peopled with a multitude of imps, too great
+for man to number, who wore sugar-loaf hats and short doublets, and
+had a picturesque way of "tumbling head over heels in the rack and
+mist." They were especially malignant toward all captains who failed
+to do them reverence, and brought down frightful squalls on such craft
+as failed to drop the peaks of their mainsails to the goblin who
+presided over this shadowy republic. It was the dread of the early
+navigators--in fact, the Olympus of Dutch mythology. Verditege Hook,
+the Dunderberg, and the Overslaugh, were names of terror to even the
+bravest skipper. The old burghers of New York never thought of making
+their week's voyage to Albany without arranging their wills, and it
+created as much commotion in New Amsterdam as a modern expedition to
+the north pole. Dunderberg, in most of the Hudson Guides and Maps, is
+put down as 1,098 feet, but its actual altitude by the latest United
+States Geological Survey is 865 feet.
+
+The State National Guard Encampment crowns a bluff, formerly known as
+Roa Hook, on the east bank, north of Peekskill Bay, a happy location
+in the midst of history and beauty. Every regiment in the State
+rallies here in turn during the summer months for instruction in the
+military art, living in tents and enjoying life in true army style.
+Visitors are cordially greeted at proper hours, and the camp is easily
+reached by ferry from Peekskill. A ferry also runs from Peekskill to
+Dunderberg, affording a hillside outing and a delightful view. It is
+expected that a spiral railroad, fourteen miles in length, undertaken
+by a recently organized corporation, but abandoned for the present,
+will make the spot a great Hudson River resort. The plan also embraces
+a palatial hotel on the summit and pleasure grounds upon the point at
+its base. Passing Manito Mountain on our right the steamer approaches
+
+=Anthony's Nose=, a prominent feature of the Hudson.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The waters were hemmed in by abrupt and dark
+    mountains, but the channel was still broad and smooth
+    enough for all the steamboats in the Republic to ride
+    in safety.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: ANTHONY'S NOSE.]
+
+Strangely enough the altitude of the mountains at the southern portal
+of the Highlands has been greatly overrated. The formerly accepted
+height of Anthony's Nose has been reduced by the Geological Survey
+from 1,228 feet to 900. It has, however, an illustrious christening,
+and according to various historians several godfathers. One says
+it was named after St. Anthony the Great, the first institutor of
+monastic life, born A. D. 251, at Coma, in Heraclea, a town in Upper
+Egypt. Irving's humorous account is, however, quite as probable that
+it was _derived_ from the nose of Antony Van Corlear, the illustrious
+trumpeter of Peter Stuyvesant. "Now thus it happened that bright and
+early in the morning the good Antony, having washed his burly visage,
+was leaning over the quarter-railing of the galley, contemplating it
+in the glassy waves below. Just at this moment the illustrious
+sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind a high bluff of the
+Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the
+refulgent _nose_ of the sounder of brass, the reflection of which
+shot straightway down hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty
+sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. When this astonishing
+miracle was made known to the Governor, and he tasted of the unknown
+fish, he marveled exceedingly; and, as a monument thereof, he gave the
+name of Anthony's Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood,
+and it has continued to be called Anthony's Nose ever since." It
+was called by the Indians "Kittatenny," a Delaware term, signifying
+"endless hills." The stream flowing into the river south of Anthony's
+Nose is known as the Brocken Kill, broken into beautiful cascades from
+mountain source to mouth.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The beautiful and in some places highly singular
+    banks of the Hudson rendered a voyage both amusing
+    and interesting, while the primitive manners of the inhabitants
+    diverted the gay and idle and pleased
+    the thoughtful and speculative.
+
+    _Mrs. Grant of Laggan._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Iona Island=, formerly a pleasure resort and picnic ground. An
+old-time joke of the Hudson was frequently perpetrated on strangers
+while passing the island. Some one would innocently observe, "I own
+a island on the Hudson." When any one obligingly asked, "Where?" the
+reply would be with pointed finger, "Why there." But the United States
+Government _owns_ it now against all comers, and its quiet lanes and
+picnic abandon have been exchanged for busy machine shops and military
+discipline. It is near the west bank, opposite Anthony's Nose. A
+short distance from the island, on the main land, was the village or
+cross-roads of Doodletown. This reach of the river was formerly known
+as The Horse Race, from the rapid flow of the tide when at its height.
+The hills on the west bank now recede from the river, forming a
+picturesque amphitheatre, bounded on the west by Bear Mountain. An
+old road directly in the rear of Iona Island, better known to Anthony
+Wayne than to the modern tourist, passes through Doodletown, over
+Dunderberg, just west of Tompkin's Cove, to Haverstraw. Here amid
+these pleasant foothills Morse laid the scene of a historical romance,
+which he however happily abandoned for a wider invention. The world
+can get along without the novel, but it would be a trifle slow without
+the telegraph. On the west bank, directly opposite the railroad tunnel
+which puts a merry "ring" into the tip of Anthony's Nose, is what is
+now known as Highland Lake, called by the Indians "Sinnipink," and by
+the immediate descendants of our Revolutionary fathers "Hessian
+Lake" or "Bloody Pond," from the fact that an American company were
+mercilessly slaughtered here by the Hessians, and, after the surrender
+of Fort Montgomery, their bodies were thrown into the lake.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Behold again the wildwood shade,
+  The mountain steep, the checkered glade,
+  And hoary rocks and bubbling rills,
+  And pointed waves and distant hills.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+The capture of Fort Clinton and Fort Montgomery was two years before
+Mad Anthony's successful assault on Stony Point. Early in the history
+of the Revolution, the British Government thought that it would be
+possible to cut off the eastern from the middle and southern Colonies
+by capturing and garrisoning commanding points along the Hudson and
+Lake Champlain. It was therefore decided in London, in the spring of
+1777, to have Sir Henry Clinton approach from the south and Burgoyne
+from the north. Reinforcements, however, arrived late from England and
+it was September before Clinton transported his troops, about 4,000
+in number, in warships and flat-boats up the river. Governor George
+Clinton was in charge of Fort Montgomery, and his brother James of
+Fort Clinton, while General Putnam, with about 2,000 men, had his
+headquarters at Peekskill. In addition to these forts, a chain was
+stretched across the Hudson from Anthony's Nose to a point near the
+present railroad bridge, to obstruct the British fleet. General
+Putnam, however, became convinced that Sir Henry Clinton proposed
+to attack Fort Independence. Most of the troops were accordingly
+withdrawn from Forts Montgomery and Clinton, when Sir Henry Clinton,
+taking advantage of a morning fog, crossed with 2,000 men at King's
+Ferry. Guided by a sympathizer of the British cause, who knew the
+district, he crossed the Dunderberg Mountain by the road just
+indicated. One division of 900 moving on Fort Montgomery, and another
+of 1,100 on Fort Clinton. Governor Clinton in the meantime ordered 400
+soldiers to Fort Montgomery, and his reconnoitering party, met by the
+Hessians, fell back upon the fort, fighting as it retreated. Governor
+Clinton sent to General Putnam for reinforcements, but it is said that
+the messenger deserted, so that Putnam literally sat waiting in camp,
+unconscious of the enemy's movements. A simultaneous attack was made
+at 5 o'clock in the afternoon on both forts. Lossing says: "The
+garrisons were composed mostly of untrained militia. They behaved
+nobly, and kept up the defense vigorously, against a greatly superior
+force of disciplined and veteran soldiers, until twilight, when they
+were overpowered, and sought safety in a scattered retreat to the
+neighboring mountains. Many escaped, but a considerable number were
+slain or made prisoners. The Governor fled across the river in a
+boat, and at midnight was with General Putnam at Continental Village,
+concerting measures for stopping the invasion. James, forcing his way
+to the rear, across the highway bridge, received a bayonet wound in
+the thigh, but safely reached his home at New Windsor. A sloop of ten
+guns, the frigate "Montgomery"--twenty-four guns--and two row-galleys,
+stationed near the boom and chain for their protection, slipped their
+cables and attempted to escape, but there was no wind to fill their
+sails, and they were burned by the Americans to prevent their falling
+into the hands of the enemy. The frigate "Congress," twenty-eight
+guns, which had already gone up the river, shared the same fate on the
+flats near Fort Constitution, which was abandoned. By the light of the
+burning vessels the fugitive garrisons made their way over the rugged
+mountains, and a large portion of them joined General Clinton at New
+Windsor the next day. They had left many of their brave companions
+behind, who, to the number of 250, had been slain or taken prisoners.
+The British, too, had parted with many men and brave officers. Among
+the latter was Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell. Early in the morning of
+the 7th of October, the river obstructions between Fort Montgomery and
+Anthony's Nose, which cost the Americans $250,000, were destroyed, and
+a light flying squadron, commanded by Sir James Wallace, and bearing a
+large number of land troops under General Vaughan, sailed up the river
+on a marauding expedition, with instructions from Sir Henry to scatter
+desolation in their paths. It was hoped that such an expedition would
+draw troops from the Northern army for the protection of the country
+below, and thereby assist Burgoyne."
+
+       * * *
+
+  I love thy tempests when the broad-winged blast
+    Rouses thy billows with his battle call,
+  When gathering clouds, in phalanx black and vast
+    Like armed shadows gird thy rocky wall.
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+Sir Henry Clinton, who had been advised by General Burgoyne that he
+must be relieved by October 12th, sent a messenger announcing his
+victory. Another of the many special providences of the American
+Revolution now occurs. The messenger blundered into the American camp,
+where some soldiers sat in British uniform, and found out too late
+that he was among enemies instead of friends. As Irving relates the
+incident in his "Life of Washington":
+
+--"On the 9th (October) two persons coming from Fort Montgomery were
+arrested by the guard, and brought for examination. One was much
+agitated, and was observed to put something hastily into his mouth
+and swallow it. An emetic was administered, and brought up a silver
+bullet. Before he could be prevented he swallowed it again. On his
+refusing a second emetic, the Governor threatened to have him hanged
+and his body opened. This threat was effectual and the bullet was
+again 'brought to light.' It was oval in form, and hollow, with a
+screw in the centre, and contained a note from Sir Henry Clinton to
+Burgoyne, written on a slip of thin paper, and dated October 8th, from
+Fort Montgomery: '_Nous y voici_ (here we are), and nothing between
+us and Gates. I sincerely hope this little success of ours will
+facilitate your operations.' Burgoyne never received it, and
+on October 13th, after the battles of Bennington and Saratoga,
+surrendered to General Gates. Sir Henry Clinton abandoned the forts on
+hearing of his defeat, and returned to New York 'a sadder and wiser
+man.'"
+
+       * * *
+
+  Columbia! Columbia! to glory arise,
+  The queen of the earth and the child of the skies.
+
+  _Timothy Dwight._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Far up the Hudson's silver flood
+    I hear the Highlands call
+  With whispering of leafy boughs
+    And voice of waterfall.
+
+  _Minna Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Beverley House.=--Passing Cohn's Hook, pronounced Connosook, where
+Hendrick Hudson anchored on his way up the river September 14, 1609,
+we see before us on the right bank a point coming down to the shore
+marked by a boat house. This is Beverley Dock, and directly up the
+river bank about an eighth of a mile stood the old Beverley House,
+where Benedict Arnold had his headquarters when in command of
+West Point. The old house, a good specimen of colonial times, was
+unfortunately burned in 1892, and with it went the most picturesque
+landmark of the most dramatic incident of the Revolution. It will
+be remembered that Arnold returned to the Beverley House after his
+midnight interview with Andre at Haverstraw, and immediately upon the
+capture of Andre the following day, that Colonel Jamison sent a letter
+to Arnold, advising him of the fact. It was the morning of September
+4th. General Washington was on his way to West Point, coming across
+the country from Connecticut. On arriving, however, at the river,
+just above the present station of Garrison, he became interested in
+examining some defenses, and sent Alexander Hamilton forward to the
+Beverley House, saying that he would come later, requesting the
+family to proceed with their breakfast and not to await his arrival.
+Alexander Hamilton and General Lafayette sat gayly chatting with Mrs.
+Arnold and her husband when the letter from Jamison was received.
+Arnold glanced at the contents, rose and excused himself from the
+table, beckoning to his wife to follow him, bade her good-bye, told
+her he was a ruined man and a traitor, kissed his little boy in the
+cradle, rode to Beverley Dock, and ordered his men to pull off and
+go down the river. The "Vulture," an English man-of-war, was near
+Teller's Point, and received a traitor, whose miserable treachery
+branded him with eternal infamy on both continents. It is said that
+he lived long enough to be hissed in the House of Commons, as he once
+took his seat in the gallery, and he died friendless and despised. It
+is also said, when Talleyrand arrived in Havre on foot from Paris, in
+the darkest hour of the French Revolution, pursued by the bloodhounds
+of the reign of terror, and was about to secure a passage to the
+United States, he asked the landlord of the hotel whether any
+Americans were staying at his house, as he was going across the water,
+and would like a letter to a person of influence in the New World.
+"There is a gentleman up-stairs from Britain or America," was the
+response. He pointed the way, and Talleyrand ascended the stairs. In a
+dimly lighted room sat a man of whom the great minister of France was
+to ask a favor. He advanced, and poured forth in elegant French and
+broken English, "I am a wanderer, and an exile. I am forced to fly to
+the New World without a friend or home. You are an American. Give me,
+then, I beseech you, a letter of yours, so that I may be able to earn
+my bread." The strange gentleman rose. With a look that Talleyrand
+never forgot, he retreated toward the door of the next chamber. He
+spoke as he retreated, and his voice was full of suffering: "I am the
+only man of the New World who can raise his hand to God and say,
+'I have not a friend, not one, in America!'" "Who are you?" he
+cried--"your name?" "My name is Benedict Arnold!"
+
+       * * *
+
+  Wayne, Putnam, Knox and Heath are there,
+    Steuben, proud Prussia's honored son;
+  Brave Lafayette from France the fair,
+    And chief of all our Washington.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Andre's fate on the other hand was widely lamented. He was universally
+beloved by his comrades and possessed a rich fund of humor which often
+bubbled over in verse. It is a strange coincidence that his best
+poetic attempt on one of Anthony Wayne's exploits near Fort Lee,
+entitled "The Cow Chase," closed with a graphically prophetic verse:
+
+  "And now I've closed my epic strain,
+    I tremble as I show it,
+  Lest this same Warrior-Drover Wayne
+    Should ever catch the poet."
+
+By a singular coincidence he did: General Wayne was in command of the
+Tarrytown and Tappan country where Andre was captured and executed. It
+is also said that these lines were published by one of the Tory papers
+in New York the very day of Andre's capture. One of the old-time
+characters on the Hudson, known as Uncle Richard, has recently thrown
+new light on the capture of Andre by claiming, with a touch of genuine
+humor, that it was entirely due to the "effects" of cider which had
+been freely "dispensed" that day by a certain Mr. Horton, a farmer in
+the neighborhood.
+
+       * * *
+
+  In view of all he lost,--his youth, his love,
+    And possibilities that wait the brave,
+  Inward and outward bound dim visions move
+    Like passing sails upon the Hudson's wave.
+
+  _Charlotte Fiske Bates._
+
+       * * *
+
+It is impossible even in these later years, not to speak of
+twenty-five or fifty years ago, to travel along the shores of
+Haverstraw Bay or among the passes of the Highlands, without hearing
+some old-time stories about Arnold and Andre, and it would be strange
+indeed if a little romance had not here and there become blended with
+the real facts. Uncle Richard's account is undoubtedly the best since
+the days of Knickerbocker. "Benedict Arnold, you know, had command of
+West Point, and he knew that the place was essential to the success of
+the Continental cause. He plotted, as everybody knows, to turn it
+over to the enemy, and in the correspondence which he carried on with
+General Clinton, young Andre, Clinton's aid, did all the writing.
+Things were coming to a focus, when a meeting took place between
+Arnold and Clinton's representative, Andre, at the house of Joshua
+Hett Smith, near Haverstraw. Andre came on the British ship "Vulture,"
+which he left at Croton Point, in Haverstraw Bay. Well," so runs Uncle
+Richard's story, "it took a long time to get matters settled; they
+'confabbed' till after daybreak. Then Arnold started back to the post
+which he had plotted to surrender. But daylight was no time for Andre
+to return to the "Vulture," so he hung round waiting for night.
+
+"During that day, some men who were working for James Horton, a farmer
+on the ridge overlooking the river, who gave his men good rations of
+cider, drank a little too much of the hard stuff. They felt good, and
+thought it would be a fine joke to load and fire off an old disabled
+cannon which lay a mile or so away on the bank. They hauled it to the
+point now called Cockroft Point, propped it up, and then the spirit
+of fun--and hard cider--prompted them to train the old piece on the
+British ship "Vulture," lying at anchor in the Bay. The "Vulture's"
+people must have overestimated the source of the fire, for the ship
+dropped down the river, and Andre had to abandon the idea of returning
+by that means. He crossed the river at King's Ferry, and while on his
+way overland was captured at Tarrytown.
+
+"Of course, the three brave men who refused to be bribed deserve all
+the glory they ever had; if it were not for them, who knows but the
+revolutionary war would have had a different ending. But they never
+would have had a chance to capture Andre if it had not been for James
+Horton's men warming up on hard cider. Hard cider broke the plans
+of Arnold, it hung Andre, and it saved West Point." A boy misguided
+Grouchy _en route_ to Waterloo. On what small hinges turn the
+destinies of nations!
+
+       * * *
+
+    A slanting ray lingered on the woody crests of the precipices that
+    overhung the river, giving greater depth to the dark-gray and
+    purple of the rocky sides.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+All the way from Anthony's Nose to Beverley Dock, where we have been
+lingering over the story of Andre, we have been literally turning a
+kaleidoscope of blended history and beauty, with scarcely time to note
+the delightful homes on the west bank, just above Fort Montgomery.
+Among them J. Pierpont Morgan's and the Pells', John Bigelow's and
+"Benny Havens'," or on the east bank of Hamilton Fish, just above
+Beverley Dock, Samuel Sloan and the late William H. Osborn, just north
+of Sugar Loaf Mountain; the mountain being so named as it resembles,
+to one coming up the river, the old-fashioned conical-shaped
+sugar-loaf, which was formerly suspended by a string over the centre
+of the hospitable Dutch tables, and swung around to be occasionally
+nibbled at, which in good old Knickerbocker days, was thought to be
+the best and only orthodox way of sweetening tea.
+
+=Buttermilk Falls=, so christened by Washington Irving, is a pretty
+little cascade on the west bank. Like sparkling wit, it is often dry,
+and the tourist is exceptionally fortunate who sees it in full-dress
+costume after a heavy shower, when it rushes over the rocks in floods
+of snow-white foam. Highland Falls is the name of a small village a
+short distance west of the river, on the bluff, but not seen from the
+deck of the steamer.
+
+The large building above the rocky channel is Lady Cliff, the Academy
+of Our Lady of Angels, under the Franciscan Sisters at Peekskill,
+opened September, 1900. It was originally built for a hotel, and
+widely known as Cranston's Hotel and Landing. As the steamer is now
+approaching the west bank we see above us the Cullum Memorial Hall,
+completed in 1899, a bequest of the late George W. Cullum of the class
+of 1833. The still newer structure to the south is the officers'
+messroom, crowning the crest above the landing.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Then, as you nearer draw, each wooded height
+  Puts off the azure hues by distance given!
+  And slowly breaks upon the enamored sight,
+  Ravine, crag, field and wood in colors true and bright.
+
+  _Theodore S. Fay._
+
+       * * *
+
+=West Point=, taken all in all, is the most beautiful tourist spot on
+the Hudson. Excursionists by the Day Boats from New York, returning
+by afternoon steamer, have three hours to visit the various places
+of history and beauty. To make an easy mathematical formula or
+picturesque "rule of three" statement, what Quebec is to the St.
+Lawrence, West Point is to the Hudson. If the citadel of Quebec is
+more imposing, the view of the Hudson at this place is grander than
+that of the St. Lawrence, and the ruins of Fort Putnam are almost as
+venerable as the Heights of Abraham. The sensation of the visitor is,
+moreover, somewhat the same in both places as to the environment of
+law and authority. To get the daily character and quality of West
+Point one should spend at least twenty-four hours within its borders,
+and a good hotel, the only one on the Government grounds, will be
+found central and convenient to everything of interest. The parade and
+drills at sunset hour can best be seen in this way.
+
+=The United States Military Academy.=--Soon after the close of the War
+of the Revolution, Washington suggested West Point as the site of a
+military academy, and, in 1793, in his annual message, recommended it
+to Congress, which in 1794 organized a corps of artillerists to be
+here stationed with thirty-two cadets, enlarging the number in 1798 to
+fifty-six. In 1808 it was increased to one hundred and fifty-six, and
+in 1812 to two hundred and sixty.
+
+Up to 1812 only 71 cadets had been graduated. The roll of graduates
+now numbers about 5,000.
+
+Each Congressman has the appointment of one cadet, supplemented by
+ten appointed by the President of the United States. These cadets are
+members of the regular army, subject to its regulations for eight
+years, viz: during four years of study and four years after
+graduating. The candidates are examined in June, each year, and must
+be physically sound as well as mentally qualified. The course is very
+thorough, especially in higher mathematics. The cadets go into camp in
+July and August, and this is the pleasantest time to visit the point.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Enchanted place, hemmed in by mountain walls,
+  By bristling guns and Hudson's restful shore.
+
+  _Kenneth Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+The plans furnished by the architects of the new building will
+entirely change the appearance of the river front. The proposed
+massive structure crowning the cliff will "out-castle" the most
+massive fortifications of the walled cities of Europe. $7,500,000 has
+been appropriated to the work by Congress and the next generation will
+behold a new West Point.
+
+In the rebuilding of the Post the Cadet Chapel, the Riding Hall, the
+Administration Building and some of the Officers' Quarters will be
+removed. Most of the old important buildings, however, will not be
+disturbed, and the Chapel will be placed as it were "intact" on
+another site. The plan leaves untouched the Cadet Barracks, the Cadet
+Mess, the Memorial Hall, the Library and the Officers' Mess. The
+tower of the new Post Headquarters will rise high and massive several
+stories above the other structures and present in enduring symbol the
+republic standing four square and firm throughout the ages.
+
+In the "West Point Souvenir," prepared by W. H. Tripp, which every
+visitor will prize, are many suggestions and descriptions of value.
+From many visits and many sources we condense the following brevities:
+
+=The Cadet Barracks= was built in 1845-51 of native granite. In 1882
+the western wing was extended adding two divisions.
+
+=The Academy Building= is immediately opposite the Headquarters, of
+Massachusetts granite, erected in 1891-95, and cost about $500,000.
+It contains recitation and lecture rooms of all departments of
+instruction.
+
+=The Ordnance Museum= contains an interesting and extensive exhibit
+of ancient and modern firearms, also many valuable trophies from the
+Revolutionary, Mexican, Civil and Spanish wars.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Among the fair and lovely Highlands of the Hudson, shut in by deep
+    green heights and ruined forts, hemmed in all round with memories
+    of Washington, there could be no more appropriate ground for the
+    military school of America.
+
+    _Charles Dickens._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Cadet Chapel=, immediately north of the Administration Building,
+was erected in 1834. The chapel contains many valuable trophies of
+the Revolutionary and Mexican wars, including three Hessian and two
+British flags that were once the property of Washington. The walls
+have many memorial tablets and a famous "blank" of Arnold. Here also
+are several cannon surrendered at Saratoga, October 17, 1777.
+
+=The Administration Building= was completed in 1871.
+
+=The Library= adjoins the Cadet Chapel on the east, built of native
+granite in 1841, costing about $15,000. In 1900 the building was
+entirely reconstructed of fire-proof material by appropriation of
+$80,000. The exterior walls of the original building entered into the
+remodeled structure. The Library, founded in 1812, has about 50,000
+volumes.
+
+=The Gymnasium= adjoins the Barracks on the west, erected of native
+granite, costing $90,000.
+
+=Memorial Hall=, plainly seen from the Hudson, completed in 1899, is
+of Ionic architecture. The building cost $268,000, a legacy bequeathed
+by Gen. George W. Cullum, built of Milford granite for army trophies
+of busts, paintings and memorials. The bronze statute of Gen. John
+Sedgwick in the northwest angle of the plain was dedicated in 1868.
+The fine cenotaph of Italian marble was erected in 1885. It stands
+immediately in front of Memorial Hall.
+
+=Kosciusko's Monument= was erected in 1828. It stands in the northeast
+angle of Fort Clinton.
+
+=The Chain-Battery= walk runs from Kosciusko's Garden northward to
+Light House Point, near which was the battery that defended the chain
+across the river in the Revolution. The scene is of great beauty and
+has been known for many years by the name of "Flirtation Walk."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where Kosciusko dreamed and proud scenes bring
+  To mind the stormy days when Liberty
+  Was cradled at West Point--the Highlands' key.
+
+  _Kenneth Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: BATTLE MONUMENT, WEST POINT]
+
+=The Battle Monument=, on Trophy Point, is the most beautiful on the
+reservation--a column of victory in memory of 2,230 officers and
+soldiers of the regular army of the United States who were killed or
+died of wounds received in the war of the Rebellion. It is a monolith
+of polished granite surmounted by a figure of Fame. The shaft is 46
+feet in length, 5 feet in diameter, and said to be the largest piece
+of polished stone in the world. The cost of the work was $66,000. The
+site was dedicated June 15, 1864. The monument was dedicated in 1897.
+The address was by Justice Brewer.
+
+=Trophy Point=, on the north side of the plain, overlooking the river
+and commanding a majestic view of the Hudson and the city of Newburgh,
+has been likened by European travelers to a view on Lake Geneva.
+Here are the "swivel clevies" and 16 links of the old chain that was
+stretched across the river at this point. The whole chain, 1,700
+feet long, weighing 186 tons, was forged at the Sterling Iron Works,
+transported to New Windsor and there attached to log booms and floated
+down the river to this point.
+
+=Old Fort Putnam= was erected in 1778 by the 5th Massachusetts
+Regiment under the direction of Col. Rufus Putnam. It was originally
+constructed of logs and trees with stone walls on two sides to defend
+Fort Clinton on the plain below. It was garrisoned by 450 men, and had
+14 guns mounted. In 1787 it was dismantled, and the guns sold as
+old iron. Its brick arch casements overgrown with moss, vines, and
+shrubbery are crumbling away, but are well worth a visit. It is 495
+feet above the Hudson. A winding picturesque carriage road leads up
+from the plain, and the pedestrian can reach the summit in 20 minutes.
+On clear days the Catskill Mountains are visible.
+
+=Fort Clinton=, in the northeast angle of the plain, was built in
+1778 under the direction of the Polish soldier, Kosciusko. Sea Coast
+Battery is located on the north waterfront, Siege Battery on the slope
+of the hill below the Battle Monument. Targets for the guns on both
+batteries are on the hillside about a mile distant. Battery Knox,
+which overlooks the river, was rebuilt in 1874 on the site of an old
+revolutionary redoubt.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Bright are the moments link'd with thee,
+    Boast of a glory-hallowed land!
+  Hope of the valiant and the free,
+    Home of our youthful soldier band!
+
+  _Anonymous._
+
+       * * *
+
+While Fort Putnam was being built Washington was advised that Dubois's
+regiment was unfit to be ordered on duty, there being "not one blanket
+in the regiment. Very few have either a shoe or a shirt, and most of
+them have neither stockings, breeches, or overalls. Several companies
+of inlisted artificers are in the same situation, and unable to work
+in the field."
+
+What privations were here endured to establish our priceless liberty!
+It makes better Americans of us all to turn and re-turn the pages of
+the real Hudson, the most picturesque volume of the world's history.
+
+West Point during the Revolution was the Gibraltar of the Hudson
+and her forts were regarded almost impregnable. Fort Putnam will be
+rebuilt as an enduring monument to the bravery of American soldiers.
+
+The best way to study West Point, however, is not in voluminous
+histories or in the condensed pages of a guide book, but to visit it
+and see its real life, to wander amid its old associations, and
+ask, when necessary, intelligent questions, which are everywhere
+courteously answered. The view north seen in a summer evening, is one
+long to be remembered. In such an hour the writer's idea of the Hudson
+as an open book with granite pages and crystal book-mark is most
+completely realized as indicated in the Highland section of his poem,
+"The Hudson":
+
+  On either side these mountain glens
+    Lie open like a massive book,
+  Whose words were graved with iron pens,
+    And lead into the eternal rock:
+
+  Which evermore shall here retain
+    The annals time cannot erase,
+  And while these granite leaves remain
+    This crystal ribbon marks the place.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Under Spring's delicate marshalling every hill of the Highlands
+    took its own place, and the soft swells of ground stood back the
+    one from the other in more and more tender coloring.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING NORTH FROM WEST POINT BATTERY]
+
+=West Point to Newburgh.=
+
+The steamer passes too near the west bank to give a view of the
+magnificent plateau with parade ground and Government buildings, but
+on rounding the point a picture of marvelous beauty breaks at once
+upon the vision. On the left the massive indented ridge of Old Cro'
+Nest and Storm King, and on the right Mount Taurus, or Bull Hill, and
+Break Neck, while still further beyond toward the east sweeps the
+Fishkill range, sentineled by South Beacon, 1,625 feet in height, from
+whose summit midnight gleams aroused the countryside for leagues and
+scores of miles during those seven long years when men toiled
+and prayed for freedom. Close at hand on the right will be seen
+Constitution Island, formerly the home of Miss Susan Warner, who died
+in 1885, author of "Queechy" and the "Wide, Wide World." Here the
+ruins of the old fort are seen. The place was once called Martalaer's
+Rock Island. A chain was stretched across the river at this point to
+intercept the passage of boats up the Hudson, but proved ineffectual,
+like the one at Anthony's Nose, as the impetus of the boats snapped
+them both like cords.
+
+Some years ago, when the first delegation of Apache Indians was
+brought to Washington to sign a treaty of peace, the Indians were
+taken for an "outing" up the Hudson, by General O. O. Howard and Dr.
+Herman Bendell, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for Arizona. It is
+said that they noted with cold indifference the palaces along the
+river front: "the artistic terraces, the well-kept, sloping lawns, the
+clipped hedges and the ivy-grown walls made no impression on them, but
+when the magnificent picture of the Hudson above West Point revealed
+itself, painted by the rays of the sinking sun, these wild men stood
+erect, raised their hands high above their heads and uttered a
+monosyllabic expression of delight, which was more expressive than
+volumes of words."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The queenly Hudson circling at thy feet
+    Lingers to sing a song of joy and love,
+  Pouring her heart in rippling wavelets sweet,
+    Which sun-kissed glance up to thy throne above.
+
+  _Kenneth Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Sir Robert Temple also rises into rapture over the northern gate
+of the Highlands. "One of the fairest spectacles to be seen on the
+earth's surface; not on any other river or strait--not on Ganges or
+Indus, on the Dardanelles or the Bosphorus, on the Danube or the
+Rhine, on the Neva or the Nile--have I ever observed so fairy-like a
+scene as this on the Hudson. The only water-view to rival it is that
+of the Sea of Marmora, opposite Constantinople."
+
+Most people who visit our river, naturally desire a brilliant sunlit
+day for their journey, and with reason, but there are effects, in fog
+and rain and driving mist, only surpassed amid the Kyles of Bute,
+in Scotland. The traveler is fortunate, who sees the Hudson in many
+phases, and under various atmospheric conditions. A midnight view is
+peculiarly impressive when the mountain spirits of Rodman Drake answer
+to the call of his "Culprit Fay."
+
+  "'Tis the middle watch of a summer night,
+  The earth is dark but the heavens are bright,
+  The moon looks down on Old Cro' Nest--
+  She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast,
+  And seems his huge gray form to throw
+  In a silver cone on the wave below."
+
+It is said that the "Culprit Fay" was written by Drake in three days,
+and grew out of a discussion which took place during a stroll through
+this part of the Highlands between Irving, Halleck, Cooper and
+himself, as to the filling of a new country with old-time legends.
+Drake died in 1820. Halleck's lines to his memory are among the
+sweetest in our language. It is said that Halleck, on hearing Drake
+read his poem, "The American Flag," sprang to his feet, and in a
+semi-poetic transport, concluded the lines with burning words, which
+Drake afterwards appended:
+
+  "Forever float that standard sheet,
+    Where breathes the foe but falls before us,
+  With Freedom's soil beneath our feet,
+    And Freedom's banner streaming o'er us."
+
+       * * *
+
+  It floweth deep and strong and wide
+    This river of romance
+  Along whose banks on moonlight nights
+    The Highland fairies dance.
+
+  _E. A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+Just opposite Old Cro' Nest is the village of Cold Spring, on the east
+bank, which receives its name naturally from a cold spring in the
+vicinity; and it is interesting to remember that the famous Parrott
+guns were made at this place, and many implements of warfare during
+our civil strife. The foundry was started by Gouverneur Kemble in
+1828, and brought into wide renown by the inventive genius of Major
+Parrott. Cold Spring has a further distinction in having the first
+ground broken, about three miles from the river, for the greatest
+engineering enterprise of the age--"The Water Supply of the
+Catskills," when Mayor McClellan, in June, 1907, began the work with
+his silver shovel. A short distance north of the village is
+
+=Undercliff= (built by John C. Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamilton,
+but more particularly associated with the memory of the poet, Col.
+George P. Morris), lies, in fact, _under the cliff_ and shadow of
+Mount Taurus, and has a fine outlook upon the river and surrounding
+mountains. Standing on the piazza, we see directly in front of us Old
+Cro' Nest, and it was here that the poet wrote:
+
+  "Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands
+    Winds through the hills afar,
+  _Old Cro' Nest like a monarch stands
+    Crowned with a single star_."
+
+Few writers were better known in their own day than the poet of
+Undercliff, who wrote "My Mother's Bible," and "Woodman, Spare that
+Tree." On one occasion, when Mr. Russell was singing it at Boulogne,
+an old gentleman in the audience, moved by the simple and touching
+beauty of the lines,
+
+  "Forgive the foolish tear,
+     But let the old oak stand."
+
+rose and said: "I beg your pardon, but was the tree really spared?"
+"It was," answered Mr. Russell, and the old gentleman resumed his
+seat, amid the plaudits of the whole assembly. Truly
+
+  "Its glory and renown
+    Are spread o'er land and sea."
+
+       * * *
+
+  When freedom from her mountain height
+    Unfurled her standard to the air,
+  She tore the azure robe of night
+    And set the stars of glory there.
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+The first European name given to Storm King was Klinkersberg (so
+called by Hendrick Hudson, from its glistening and broken rock). It
+was styled by the Dutch "Butter Hill," from its shape, and, with
+Sugar Loaf on the eastern side below the point, helped to set out the
+tea-table for the Dunderberg goblins. It was christened by Willis,
+"Storm King," and may well be regarded the El Capitan of the
+Highlands. Breakneck is opposite, on the east side, where St.
+Anthony's Face was blasted away. In this mountain solitude there was a
+shade of reason in giving that solemn countenance of stone the name
+of St. Anthony, as a good representative of monastic life; and, by a
+quiet sarcasm, the full-length nose below was probably suggested.
+
+The mountain opposite Cro' Nest is "Bull Hill," or more classically,
+"Mt. Taurus." It is said that there was formerly a wild bull in these
+mountains, which had failed to win the respect and confidence of the
+inhabitants, so the mountaineers organized a hunt and drove him over
+the hill, whose name stands a monument to his exit. The point at the
+foot of "Mount Taurus" is known as "Little Stony Point."
+
+The Highlands now trend off to the northeast, and we see North Beacon,
+or Grand Sachem Mountain, and Old Beacon about half a mile to the
+north. The mountains were relit with beacon-fires in 1883, in honor of
+the centennials of Fishkill and Newburgh, and were plainly seen sixty
+miles distant.
+
+This section was known by the Indians as "Wequehache," or, "the Hill
+Country," and the entire range was called by the Indians "the endless
+hills," a name not inappropriate to this mountain bulwark reaching
+from New England to the Carolinas. As pictured in our "Long Drama,"
+given at the Newburgh centennial of the disbanding of the American
+Army,
+
+  That ridge along our eastern coast,
+    From Carolina to the Sound,
+  Opposed its front to Britain's host,
+    And heroes at each pass were found:
+
+  A vast primeval palisade,
+    With bastions bold and wooded crest,
+  A bulwark strong by nature made
+    To guard the valley of the west.
+
+  Along its heights the beacons gleamed,
+    It formed the nation's battle-line,
+  Firm as the rocks and cliffs where dreamed
+    The soldier-seers of Palestine.
+
+It was also believed by the Indians that, in ancient days, "before the
+Hudson poured its waters from the lakes, the Highlands formed one vast
+prison, within whose rocky bosom the omnipotent Manitou confined
+the rebellious spirits who repined at his control. Here, bound in
+adamantine chains, or jammed in rifted pines, or crushed by ponderous
+rocks, they groaned for many an age. At length the conquering Hudson,
+in its career toward the ocean, burst open their prison-house, rolling
+its tide triumphantly through the stupendous ruins."
+
+       * * *
+
+    The Highlands are here moulded in all manner of heights and
+    hollows; sometimes reaching up abruptly to twelve or fifteen
+    hundred feet, and again stretching away in long gorges and gentle
+    declivities.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Pollopel's Island=, east of the steamer's route, was once regarded as
+a haunted spot, but its only witches are said to be snakes too lively
+to be enchanted. In old times, the "new hands" on the sloops were
+unceremoniously dipped at this place, so as to be proof-christened
+against the goblins of the Highlands. Here also another useless
+"impediment" was put across the Hudson in 1779, a chevaux-de-frise
+with iron-pointed spikes thirty feet long, hidden under water,
+strongly secured by cribs of stone. This, however, was not broken and
+would probably have done effective work if some traitor to the cause
+had not guided the British captains through an unprotected passage.
+The State at one time contemplated the purchase of this island on
+which to erect a statue to Hendrick Hudson. For some reason Governor
+Flower vetoed the bill. It is now owned by Mr. Francis Bannerman,
+an energetic business man, who perhaps some day may see his way to
+promote a monument to Hudson on the splendid pedestal which nature has
+already completed.
+
+       * * *
+
+  What sights and sounds at which the world has wondered
+    Within these wild ravines have had their birth!
+  Young Freedom's cannon from these glens have thundered
+    And sent their startling echoes o'er the earth.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Cornwall-on-the-Hudson.=--This locality N. P. Willis selected as the
+most picturesque point on the Hudson. The village lies in a lovely
+valley, which Mr. Beach has styled in his able description, as "an
+offshoot of the Ramapo, up which the storm-winds of the ocean drive,
+laden with the purest and freshest air."
+
+=Idlewild.=--Where Willis spent the last years of his life is a
+charming spot and rich with poetic memories. E. P. Roe also chose
+Cornwall for his home. Lovers of the Hudson are indebted to Edward
+Bok for his realistic sketch of an afternoon visit. The "Idlewild" of
+to-day is still green to the memory of the poet. Since Willis' death
+the place has passed in turn into various hands, until now it belongs
+to a wealthy New York lawyer, who has spent thousands of dollars on
+the house and grounds. The old house still stands, and here and there
+in the grounds remains a suggestion of the time of Willis. The famous
+pine-drive leading to the mansion, along which the greatest literary
+lights of the Knickerbocker period passed during its palmy days, still
+remains intact, the dense growth of the trees only making the road the
+more picturesque. The brook, at which Willis often sat, still runs on
+through the grounds as of yore. In the house, everything is remodeled
+and remodernized. The room from whose windows Willis was wont to look
+over the Hudson, and where he did most of his charming writing, is now
+a bedchamber, modern in its every appointment, and suggesting its age
+only by the high ceiling and curious mantel. Only a few city blocks
+from "Idlewild" is the house where lived E. P. Roe, the author of so
+many popular novels, as numerous, almost, in number as the several
+hundreds of thousands of circulation which they secured. There are
+twenty-three acres to it in all, and, save what was occupied by the
+house, every inch of ground was utilized by the novelist in his hobby
+for fine fruits and rare flowers. Now nothing remains of the beauty
+once so characteristic of the place. For four years the grounds have
+missed the care of their creator. Where once were the novelist's
+celebrated strawberry beds, are now only grass and weeds. Everything
+is grown over, only a few trees remaining as evidence that the grounds
+were ever known for their cultivated products. A large board sign
+announces the fact that the entire place is for sale.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The river narrows at their proud behest
+    And creeps more darkly as it deeper flows,
+  And fitful winds swirl through the long defile
+    Where the great Highlands keep their stern repose.
+
+  _E.A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+Cornwall has been for many years a favorite resort of the Hudson
+Valley and her roofs shelter in the summer season many thousand
+people. The road completed in 1876, from Cornwall to West Point, gives
+one a pleasant acquaintance with the wooded Highlands. It passes over
+the plateau of Cro' Nest and winds down the Cornwall slope of Storm
+King. The tourist who sees Cro' Nest and Storm King only from the
+river, has but little idea of their extent. Cro' Nest plateau is about
+one thousand feet above the parade ground of West Point, and overlooks
+it as a rocky balcony. These mountains, with their wonderful lake
+system, are, in fact, the "Central Park" of the Hudson. Within a
+radius of ten miles are clustered over forty lakes, and we very much
+doubt if one person in a thousand ever heard of them. A convenient
+map giving the physical geography of this section would be of great
+service to the mountain visitor. The Cornwall pier, built by the _New
+York, Ontario and Western Railroad_ in 1892 for coal and freight
+purposes, will be seen on our left near the Cornwall dock. This
+railroad leaves the _West Shore_ at this point and forms a pleasant
+tourist route to the beautiful inland villages and resorts of the
+State.
+
+       * * *
+
+    A solitary gleam struck on the base of the Highland peak, and
+    moved gracefully up its side, until reaching the summit, it stood
+    for a minute forming a crown of glory to the sombre pile.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Newburgh to Poughkeepsie.=
+
+=Newburgh=, 60 miles from New York. Approaching the city of Newburgh,
+we see a building of rough stone, one story high, with steep
+roof--known as Washington's Headquarters. For several years prior to,
+and during the Revolution, this was the home of Jonathan Hasbrouck,
+known far and wide for business integrity and loyalty to liberty. This
+house was built by him, apparently, in decades; the oldest part, the
+northeast corner, in 1750; the southeast corner, in 1760, and the
+remaining half in 1770. It fronted west on the king's highway, now
+known as Liberty Street, with a garden and family burial plot to the
+east, lying between the house and the river. It was restored as nearly
+as possible to its original character on its purchase by the State
+in 1849, and it is now the treasure-house of many memories, and of
+valuable historic relics. A descriptive catalogue, prepared for
+the trustees, under act of May 11, 1874, by a patient and careful
+historian, =Dr. E. M. Ruttenber=, will be of service to the visitor and
+can be obtained on the grounds. The following facts, condensed from
+his admirable historical sketch, are of practical interest:
+
+"=Washington's Headquarters=, or the Hasbrouck house, is situated in
+the southeast part of the city, constructed of rough stone, one story
+high, fifty-six feet front by forty-six feet in depth, and located on
+what was originally Lot No. 2, of the German Patent, with title vested
+in Heman (Herman?) Schoneman, a native of the Palatinate of Germany,
+who sold, in 1721, to James Alexander, who subsequently sold to
+Alexander Colden and Burger Meynders, by whom it was conveyed to
+Jonathan Hasbrouck, the grandson of Abraham Hasbrouck, one of the
+Huguenot founders of New Paltz. He was a man of marked character; of
+fine physique, being six feet and four inches in height; was colonel
+of the militia of the district, and in frequent service in guarding
+the passes of the Highlands. His occupation was that of a farmer, a
+miller, and a merchant. He died in 1780. The first town meeting for
+the Precinct of Newburgh was held here on the first Tuesday in April,
+1763, when its owner was elected supervisor. Public meetings continued
+to be held here for several years. During the early part of the
+Revolution, the committee of safety, of the precinct, assembled here;
+here military companies were organized, and here the regiment which
+Colonel Hasbrouck commanded assembled, to move hence to the defence of
+the Highland forts."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Sacred in this mansion hoary,
+    'Neath its roof-tree long ago
+  Dwelt the father of our glory,
+    He whose name appalled the foe.
+
+  _Mary E. Monell._
+
+       * * *
+
+From this brief outline, it will be seen that the building is
+singularly associated with the history of the Old as well as of the
+New World: with the former through the original grantee of the land,
+recalling the wars which devastated the Palatinate and sent its
+inhabitants, fugitive and penniless, to other parts of Europe and to
+America; through his successor with the Huguenots of France, and,
+through the public meetings which assembled here, and especially
+through its occupation by Washington, with the struggle for American
+independence.
+
+In the spring of 1782 Washington made this building his headquarters,
+and remained here until August 18, 1783, on the morning of which day
+he took his departure from Newburgh. At this place he passed through
+the most trying period of the Revolution: the year of inactivity on
+the part of Congress, of distress throughout the country, and of
+complaint and discontent in the army, the latter at one time bordering
+on revolt among the officers and soldiers.
+
+It was at this place, on the 22d day of May, 1782, that Colonel
+Nicola, on behalf of himself and others, proposed that Washington
+should become king, for the "national advantage," a proposal that was
+received by Washington with "surprise and astonishment," "viewed with
+abhorrence," and "reprehended with severity." The temptation which was
+thus repelled by Washington, had its origin with that portion of the
+officers of the army, who while giving their aid heartily to secure
+an independent government, nevertheless believed that that government
+should be a monarchy. The rejection of the proposition by Washington
+was not the only significant result. The rank and file of the army
+rose up against it, and around their camp-fires chanted their purpose
+in Billings' song, "No King but God!" From that hour a republic became
+the only possible form of government for the enfranchised Colonies.
+
+       * * *
+
+  With silvered locks and eyes grown dim,
+    As victory's sun proclaimed the morn,
+  He pushed aside the diadem
+    With stern rebuke and patriot scorn.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+The inattention of Congress to the payment of the army, during the
+succeeding winter, gave rise to an equally important episode in the
+history of the war. On the 10th of March, 1783, the first of the
+famous "Newburgh Letters" was issued, in which, by implication at
+least, the army was advised to revolt. The letter was followed by an
+anonymous manuscript notice for a public meeting of officers on
+the succeeding Tuesday. Washington was equal to the emergency. He
+expressed his disapprobation of the whole proceeding, and with great
+wisdom, requested the field officers, with one commissioned officer
+from each company, to meet on the Saturday preceding the time
+appointed by the anonymous notice. He attended this meeting and
+delivered before it one of the most touching and effective addresses
+on record. When he closed his remarks, the officers unanimously
+resolved "to reject with disdain" the infamous proposition contained
+in the anonymous address.
+
+The meeting of officers referred to was held at the New Building or
+"Temple" as it was called, in New Windsor, but Washington's address
+was written at his headquarters. The "Newburgh Letters," to which it
+was a reply, were written by Major John Armstrong, aid-de-camp to
+General Gates. The anonymously called meeting was not held. The
+motives of its projectors we will not discuss; but its probable
+effect, had it been successful, must be considered in connection
+with Washington's encomium of the result of the meeting which he had
+addressed: "Had this day been wanting, the world had never known the
+height to which human greatness is capable of attaining."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Freemen pause! this ground is holy,
+    Noble spirits suffered here,
+  Tardy Justice, marching slowly,
+    Tried their faith from year to year.
+
+  _Mary E. Monell._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Serene and calm in peril's hour,
+    An honest man without pretence,
+  He stands supreme to teach the power
+    And brilliancy of common-sense.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Notice of the cessation of hostilities was proclaimed to the army
+April 19, 1783. It was received with great rejoicings by the troops
+at Newburgh, and under Washington's order, was the occasion of
+an appropriate celebration. In the evening, signal beacon lights
+proclaimed the joyous news to the surrounding country. Thirteen
+cannon came pealing up from Fort Putnam, which were followed by a
+_feu-de-joie_ rolling along the lines. The mountain sides resounded
+and echoed like tremendous peals of thunder, and the flashing from
+thousands of fire-arms, in the darkness of the evening, was like unto
+vivid flashes of lightning from the clouds. From this time furloughs
+were freely granted to soldiers who wished to return to their homes,
+and when the army was finally disbanded those absent were discharged
+from service without being required to return. That portion of the
+army, which remained at Newburgh on guard duty, after the removal of
+the main body to West Point in June, were participants here in the
+closing scenes of the disbandment, when, on the morning of November
+3, 1783, "the proclamation of Congress and the farewell orders of
+Washington were read, and the last word of command given." From
+Monell's "Handbook of Washington's Headquarters" we also quote a
+general description of the house and its appearance when occupied by
+the commander-in-chief. "Washington's family consisted of himself, his
+wife, and his aid-de-camp, Major Tench Tilghman. The large room, which
+is entered from the piazza on the east, known as 'the room with seven
+doors and one window,' was used as the dining and sitting-room. The
+northeast room was Washington's bedroom and the one adjoining it on
+the left was occupied by him as a private office. The family room was
+that in the southeast; the kitchen was the southwest room; the parlor
+the northwest room. Between the latter and the former was the hall and
+staircase and the storeroom, so called for having been used by Colonel
+Hasbrouck and subsequently by his widow as a store. The parlor was
+mainly reserved for Mrs. Washington and her guests. A Mrs. Hamilton,
+whose name frequently appears in Washington's account book, was his
+housekeeper, and in the early part of the war made a reputation for
+her zeal in his service, which Thacher makes note of and Washington
+acknowledges in his reference to an exchange of salt. There was little
+room for the accommodation of guests, but it is presumed that the
+chambers were reserved for that purpose. Washington's guests, however,
+were mainly connected with the army and had quarters elsewhere. Even
+Lafayette had rooms at DeGrove's Hotel when a visitor at headquarters.
+
+"The building is now substantially in the condition it was during
+Washington's occupation of it. The same massive timbers span the
+ceiling; the old fire-place with its wide-open chimney is ready for
+the huge back-logs of yore; the seven doors are in their places;
+the rays of the morning sun still stream through the one window; no
+alteration in form has been made in the old piazza--the adornments on
+the walls, if such the ancient hostess had, have alone been changed
+for souvenirs of the heroes of the nation's independence. In
+presence of these surroundings, it requires but little effort of the
+imagination to restore the departed guests. Forgetting not that this
+was Washington's private residence, rather than a place for the
+transaction of public business, we may, in the old sitting-room
+respread the long oaken table, listen to the blessing invoked on the
+morning meal, hear the cracking of joints, and the mingled hum of
+conversation. The meal dispensed, Mrs. Washington retires to appear at
+her flower beds or in her parlor to receive her morning calls. Colfax,
+the captain of the life-guard, enters to receive the orders of the
+day--perhaps a horse and guard for Washington to visit New Windsor,
+or a barge for Fishkill or West Point, is required; or it may be
+Washington remains at home and at his writing desk conducts his
+correspondence, or dictates orders for army movements. The old
+arm-chair, sitting in the corner yonder, is still ready for its former
+occupant.
+
+"The dinner hour of five o'clock approaches; the guests of the day
+have already arrived. Steuben, the iron drill-master and German
+soldier of fortune, converses with Mrs. Washington. He had reduced
+the simple marksmen of Bunker Hill to the discipline of the armies
+of Europe and tested their efficiency in the din of battle. He has
+leisure now, and scarcely knows how to find employment for his active
+mind. He is telling his hostess, in broken German-English, of the
+whale (it proved to be an eel) he had caught in the river. Hear his
+hostess laugh! And that is the voice of Lafayette, relating perhaps
+his adventures in escaping from France, or his mishap in attempting
+to attend Mrs. Knox's last party. Wayne, of Stony Point; Gates, of
+Saratoga; Clinton, the Irish-blooded Governor of New York, and their
+compatriots--we may place them all at times beside our _Pater Patriae_
+in this old room, and hear amid the mingled hum his voice declare:
+'Happy, thrice happy, shall they be pronounced hereafter, who have
+contributed anything, who have performed the meanest office in
+erecting this stupendous fabric of Freedom and Empire on the broad
+basis of independency; who have assisted in protecting the rights of
+human nature, and in establishing an asylum for the poor and oppressed
+of all nations and religions.'
+
+"In France, some fifty years after the Revolution, Marbois reproduced,
+as an entertainment for Lafayette, then an old man, this old
+sitting-room and its table scene. From his elegant saloon he conducted
+his guests, among whom were several Americans, to the room which he
+had prepared. There was a large open fire-place, and plain oaken
+floors; the ceiling was supported with large beams and whitewashed;
+there were the seven small-sized doors and one window with heavy sash
+and small panes of glass. The furniture was plain and unlike any then
+in use. Down the centre of the room was an oaken table covered with
+dishes of meat and vegetables, decanters and bottles of wine, and
+silver mugs and small wine glasses. The whole had something the
+appearance of a Dutch kitchen. While the guests were looking around in
+surprise at this strange procedure, the host, addressing himself to
+them said, 'Do you know where we now are?' Lafayette looked around,
+and, as if awakening from a dream, he exclaimed, 'Ah! the seven doors
+and one window, and the silver camp goblets such as the Marshals of
+France used in my youth. We are at Washington's Headquarters on the
+Hudson fifty years ago.'"
+
+       * * *
+
+  One window looking toward the east;
+    Seven doors wide-open every side;
+  That room revered proclaims at least
+    An invitation free and wide.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+    The goodness which characterizes Washington is felt
+    by all around him, but the confidence he inspires is
+    never familiar; it springs from a profound esteem for
+    his virtues and a great opinion of his talents.
+
+    _Marquis de Chastellux._
+
+       * * *
+
+    From these headquarters Washington promulgated his
+    memorable order for the cessation of hostilities and
+    recalled the fact that its date, April 18th, was the anniversary
+    of the battles of Lexington and Concord.
+
+    _Thomas F. Bayard._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Hasbrouck family returned to their old home, made historic for all
+time, after the disbandment of the army and remained until it became
+the property of the State. On July 4, 1850, the place was formally
+dedicated by Major-General Winfield Scott, dedicatory address
+delivered by John J. Monell, an ode by Mary E. Monell, and an oration
+by Hon. John W. Edmunds. The centennial of the disbanding of the army
+was observed here October 18, 1883. After the noonday procession
+of 10,000 men in line, three miles in length, with governors and
+representative people from almost every State, 150,000 people, "ten
+acres" square, gathered in the historic grounds. Senator Bayard, of
+Delaware, was chairman of the day. Hon. William M. Evarts was the
+orator, and modestly speaking in the third person, Wallace Bruce,
+author of this handbook, was the poet. No one there gathered can ever
+forget that afternoon of glorious sunlight or the noble pageant. The
+great mountains, which had so frequently been the bulwark of liberty
+and a place of refuge for our fathers, were all aglow with beauty, as
+if, like Horeb's bush, they too would open their lips in praise and
+thanksgiving. One of the closing sentences of Senator Evarts' address
+is unsurpassed in modern or ancient eloquence: "These rolling years
+have shown growth, forever growth, and strength, increasing strength,
+and wealth and numbers ever expanding, while intelligence, freedom,
+art, culture and religion have pervaded and ennobled all this material
+greatness. Wide, however, as is our land and vast our population
+to-day, these are not the limits to the name, the fame, the power of
+the life and character of Washington. If it could be imagined that
+this nation, rent by disastrous feuds, broken in its unity, should
+ever present the miserable spectacle of the undefiled garments of his
+fame parted among his countrymen, while for the seamless vesture
+of his virtue they cast lots--if this unutterable shame, if this
+immeasurable crime, should overtake this land and this people, be sure
+that no spot in the wide world is inhospitable to his glory, and
+no people in it but rejoices in the influence of his power and his
+virtue." In his lofty sentences the old heroes seemed to pass again
+in review before us, and the daily life of that heroic band, when
+Congress sat inactive and careless of its needs until the camp rose in
+mutiny, happily checked, however, by the great commander in a single
+sentence. It will be remembered that Washington began to read his
+manuscript without glasses, but was compelled to stop, and, as he
+adjusted them to his eyes, he said, "You see, gentlemen, that I have
+not only grown gray, but blind, in your service." It is needless to
+say that the "anonymously called" meeting was not held.
+
+  He quelled the half-paid mutineers,
+    And bound them closer to the cause;
+  His presence turned their wrath to tears,
+    Their muttered threats to loud applause.
+
+  The great Republic had its birth
+    That hour beneath the army's wing,
+  Whose leader taught by native worth
+    The man is grander than the king.
+
+       * * *
+
+  We hear the anthem once again,--
+    "No king but God!"--to guide our way,
+  Like that of old--"Good-will to men"--
+    Unto the shrine where freedom lay.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+Near at hand, and also plainly seen from the river, is the new Tower
+of Victory, fifty-three feet high, costing $67,000. It contains a
+life-size statue of Washington, in the act of sheathing his sword,
+with bronze figures representing the rifle, the artillery, the line
+officer and dragoon service of our country, with a bronze tablet on
+the east wall bearing the inscription: "This monument was erected
+under the authority of the Congress of the United States, and of
+the State of New York, in commemoration of the disbandment, under
+proclamation of the Continental Congress, of October 18, 1783, of
+the armies, by whose patriotic and military virtue, our national
+independence and sovereignty were established." The Belvidere, reached
+by a spiral staircase, is capable of holding one hundred persons,
+and the view therefrom takes in a wide extent of panoramic beauty.
+Newburgh has not only reason to be proud of her historical landmarks
+and her beautiful situation, but also of her commercial prosperity.
+In olden times, it was a great centre for all the western and
+southwestern district, farmers and lumbermen coming from long
+distances in the interior. Soon after the Revolution she was made a
+village, when there were only two others in the State. Before the days
+of the Erie canal, this was the shortest route to Lake Erie, and was
+made by stage _via_ Ithaca. With increasing facilities of railway
+communication, she has also easily held her own against all commercial
+rivals. The _West Shore Railroad_, the _Erie Railway_, the _New York
+Central_ and the _New York and New England_ across the river, and
+several Hudson river steamers, make her peculiarly central. The city
+is favored with beautiful driveways, amid charming country seats.
+The New Paltz road passes the site where General Wayne had his
+headquarters, also, the "Balm of Gilead tree," which gave the name of
+Balmville to the suburban locality. Another road affords a glimpse of
+the "Vale of Avoca," named after the well-known glen in Ireland, of
+which Tom Moore so sweetly sung. Here, some say, a treacherous attempt
+was made on the life of Washington, but it is not generally credited
+by critical historians. As the steamer leaves the dock, and we look
+back upon the factories and commercial houses along the water front,
+crowned by noble streets of residence, with adjoining plateau,
+sweeping back in a vast semi-circle as a beautiful framework to
+the wide bay, we do not wonder that Hendrick Hudson established a
+prophetic record by writing "a very pleasant place to build a town."
+
+[Illustration: WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, NEWBURGH]
+
+       * * *
+
+    Washington! Brave without temerity; laborious without
+    ambition; generous without prodigality; noble
+    without pride; virtuous without severity.
+
+    _Marquis de Chastellux._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Fishkill-on-the-Hudson.=--Directly opposite Newburgh, one mile north
+of Denning's Point (formerly the eastern dock of the Newburgh ferry),
+rises on a pleasant slope, the newer Fishkill of this region. A little
+more than a mile from the landing, is the manufacturing village
+of Matteawan, connected by an electric railroad. Old Fishkill, or
+Fishkill Village, is about four miles inland, charmingly located,
+under the slope of the Fishkill range. This was once the largest
+village in Dutchess county, and was chosen for its secure position
+above the Highlands, as the place to which "should be removed the
+treasury and archives of the State, also, as the spot for holding the
+subsequent sessions of the Provincial Conventions," after they were
+driven from New York. A historical sketch of the town, by T. Van Wyck
+Brinkerhoff, presents many things of interest. "Its history, anterior
+to 1682, belongs to the red men of the valley, and, more than any
+other spot, this was the home of their priests. Here they performed
+their incantations and administered at their altars." According to
+Broadhead, "It would seem that the neighboring Indians esteemed
+the peltries from Fishkill as charmed by the incantations of the
+aboriginal enchanters who lived along its banks, and the beautiful
+scenery in which those ancient priests of the Highlands dwelt, is
+thus invested with new poetic associations." Dunlap speaks of them as
+"occupying the Highlands, called by them Kittatenny Mountains. Their
+principal settlement, designated Wiccapee, was situated in the
+vicinity of Anthony's Nose. Here too, lived the Wappingers, a war-like
+and brave tribe, extending themselves along the Matteawan, along
+the Wappingers Kill and tributaries, along the Hudson, and to the
+northward, across the river into Ulster County. These and other tribes
+to the south, west and north, were parts of and tributaries to the
+great Iroquois confederation--the marvel for all time to come of a
+system of government so wise and politic, and for men so eloquent and
+daring. The Wappingers took part in the Dutch and Indian wars of 1643
+and 1663, led on by their war chiefs, Wapperonk and Aepjen. A few
+Indian names are still remaining, and a few traces of their history
+still left standing. The name Matteawan is Indian, signifying 'Good
+Beaver Grounds,' and the name Wappinger still speaks of those who
+once owned the soil along the Hudson. Their name for the stream was
+Mawanassigh, or Mawenawasigh. Wiccapee and Shenondoah are also Indian
+names of places in Fishkill Hook, and East Fishkill, and Apoquague,
+still surviving as the name of a country postoffice, was the Indian
+style of what is now called Silver Lake, signifying 'round pond.' In
+Fishkill Hook until quite recently, there were traces of their burial
+grounds, and many apple and pear trees are still left standing, set
+there by the hands of the red man before the country had been occupied
+by Europeans."
+
+       * * *
+
+  For here amid these hills he once kept court--
+  He who his country's eagle taught to soar
+  And fired those stars which shine o'er every shore.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+To return to Brinkerhoff, "The first purchase of land in the county
+of Dutchess, was made in the town of Fishkill. On the 8th day
+of February, 1682, a license was given by Thomas Dongan,
+Commander-in-chief of the Province of New York, to Francis Rombout and
+Gulian Ver Planck, to purchase a tract of land from the Indians. Under
+this license, they bought, on the 8th day of August, 1683, of the
+Wappinger Indians, all their right, title and interest to a certain
+large tract of land, afterward known as the Rombout precinct. Gulian
+Ver Planck died before the English patent was issued by Governor
+Dongan; Stephanus Van Cortland was then joined in it with Rombout,
+and Jacobus Kipp substituted as the representative of the children of
+Gulian Ver Planck. On the 17th day of October, 1685, letters patent,
+under the broad seal of the Province of New York, were granted by King
+James the Second, and the parties to whom these letters patent were
+granted, became from that time the undisputed proprietors of the soil.
+There were 76,000 acres of these lands lying in Fishkill, and other
+towns taken from the patent, and 9,000 acres lying in the limits of
+the town of Poughkeepsie. Besides paying the natives, as a further
+consideration for the privilege of their license, they were to pay
+the commander-in-chief, Thomas Dongan, six bushels of good and
+merchantable winter wheat every year." In the Book of Patents, at
+Albany, vol. 5, page 72, will be found the deed, of special interest
+to the historian and antiquarian.
+
+       * * *
+
+    It was a dainty day, and it grew more dainty towards
+    its close as the lights and shadows stretched athwart
+    our Highland landscape.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+"After the evacuation of New York, in the fall of 1776, and the
+immediate loss of the seaboard, with Long Island and part of New
+Jersey, Fishkill was at once crowded with refugees, as they were then
+called, who sought, by banishing themselves from their homes on Long
+Island and New York, to escape imprisonment and find safety here. The
+interior army route to Boston passed through this place. Army stores,
+workshops, ammunition, etc., were established and deposited here." The
+Marquis De Chastellux, in his travels in North America, says: "This
+town, in which there are not more than fifty houses in the space of
+two miles, has been long the principal depot of the American army.
+It is there they have placed their magazines, their hospitals, their
+workshops, etc., but all of these form a town in themselves, composed
+of handsome large barracks, built in the woods at the foot of the
+mountains: for the American army, like the Romans in many respects,
+have hardly any other winter quarters than wooden towns, or barricaded
+camps, which may be compared to the 'hiemalia' of the Romans." These
+barracks were situated on the level plateau between the residence of
+Mr. Cotheal and the mountains. Portions of these grounds were no
+doubt then covered with timber. Guarding the approach from the south,
+stockades and fortifications were erected on commanding positions, and
+regularly manned by detachments from the camp.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Unto him and them all owing
+    Peace as stable as our hills,
+  Plenty like yon river flowing
+    To the sea from thousand rills.
+
+  _Mary E. Monell._
+
+       * * *
+
+"Upon one of these hills, rising out of this mountain pass-way, very
+distinct lines of earthworks are yet apparent. Near the residence of
+Mr. Sidney E. Van Wyck, by the large black-walnut trees, and east
+of the road near the base of the mountain, was the soldiers' burial
+ground. Many a poor patriot soldier's bones lie mouldering there; and
+if we did but know how many, we would be startled at the number, for
+this almost unknown and unnoticed burial ground holds not a few, but
+hundreds of those who gave their lives for the cause of American
+independence. Some fifteen years ago, an old lady who had lived near
+the village until after she had grown to womanhood, told the writer
+that after the battle of White Plains she went with her father through
+the streets of Fishkill, and in places between the Dutch and Episcopal
+churches, the dead were piled up like cord-wood. Those who died from
+wounds in battle or from sickness in hospital were buried there. Many
+of these were State militiamen, and it seems no more than just that
+the State should make an appropriation to erect a suitable monument
+over this spot. Rather than thus remain for another century, if a
+rough granite boulder were rolled down from the mountain side and
+inscribed: 'To the unknown and unnumbered dead of the American
+Revolution,' that rough unhewn stone would tell to the stranger and
+the passer-by, more to the praise and fame of our native town than
+any of us shall be able to add to it by works of our own; for it is
+doubtful whether any spot in the State has as many of the buried dead
+of the Revolution as this quiet burial yard in our old town!" Here
+also on June 2, 1883, was observed "The Fishkill Centennial," and
+few of our centennials have been celebrated amid objects of greater
+revolutionary interest. Near at hand, to quote from the official
+report of the proceedings, is "Denning's Point where Washington
+frequently, while waiting, tied his horses under those magnificent
+'Washington oaks,' as he passed backward and forward from New Windsor
+and Newburgh to Fishkill. Near by is the Verplanck House, Baron
+Steuben's old headquarters. On Spy Hill and Continental Hill troops
+were quartered. At Matteawan Sackett lived, and there is the Teller
+House built by Madame Brett, where officers frequently resorted, and
+there Yates dwelt when he presided over the legislative body while it
+held its sessions in Fishkill, that had much to do with forming our
+first State Constitution. Baron Steuben was for a while in the old
+Scofield House at Glenham. In Fishkill are those renowned old churches
+where legislative sittings were held, which were also used as
+hospitals for the sick, and one of which is otherwise known as being
+the place where Enoch Crosby, the spy, was imprisoned, and from which
+he escaped. Near at hand the Wharton House (Van Wyck House), forever
+associated with him, and made famous by Cooper's 'Spy.' In the
+Brinckerhoff House above, Lafayette was dangerously ill with a fever,
+and there, at Swartwoutville, Washington was often a visitor. Whenever
+Washington was at Fishkill he made Colonel Brinckerhoff's his
+headquarters. He occupied the bedroom back of the parlor, which
+remains the same 'excepting a door that opens into the hall, which has
+been cut through.' It is an old-fashioned house built of stone, with
+the date 1738 on one of its gables." With the story of Fishkill we
+close the largest page relating to our revolutionary heroes, and leave
+behind us the Old Beacon Mountains which forever sentinel and proclaim
+their glory.
+
+       * * *
+
+    No prouder sentinel of glory than the old Beacon
+    Mountain whose watch-fire guarded the valley and spoke
+    its rallying message to the Catskills and Berkshires and
+    the very foothills of the Green Mountains.
+
+    _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+    The sun touched mountains in some places were of
+    a bright orange and the shadows between them deep
+    neutral tint or blue. And the river apparently had
+    stopped running to reflect.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Low Point=, or Carthage, is a small village on the east bank, about
+four miles north of Fishkill. It was called by the early inhabitants
+Low Point, as New Hamburgh, two miles north, was called High Point.
+Opposite Carthage is Roseton, once known as Middlehope, and above this
+we see the residence of Bancroft Davis and the Armstrong Mansion. We
+now behold on the west bank a large flat rock, covered with cedars,
+recently marked by a lighthouse, the--
+
+=Duyvel's Dans Kammer.=--Here Hendrick Hudson, in his voyage up the
+river, witnessed an Indian pow-wow--the first recorded fireworks in a
+country which has since delighted in rockets and pyrotechnic displays.
+Here, too, in later years, tradition relates the sad fate of a wedding
+party. It seems that a Mr. Hans Hansen and a Miss Kathrina Van
+Voorman, with a few friends, were returning from Albany, and
+disregarding the old Indian prophecy, were all slain:--
+
+  "For none that visit the Indian's den
+  Return again to the haunts of men.
+  The knife is their doom! O sad is their lot!
+  Beware, beware of the blood-stained spot!"
+
+Some years ago this spot was also searched for the buried treasures
+of Captain Kidd, and we know of one river pilot who still dreams
+semi-yearly of there finding countless chests of gold.
+
+Two miles above, on the east side, we pass New Hamburgh, at the mouth
+of =Wappingers Creek=. The name Wappinger had its origin from Wabun,
+east, and Acki, land. This tribe, a sub-tribe of the Mahicans, held
+the east bank of the river, from Manhattan to Roeliffe Jansen's Creek,
+which empties into the Hudson near Livingston, a few miles south of
+Catskill Station on the _Hudson River Railroad_. Passing Hampton
+Point we see Marlborough, the head-centre of a large fruit industry,
+delightfully located in the sheltered pass of the Maunekill. On the
+east bank will be noticed several fine residences: "Uplands," "High
+Cliff," "Cedars," and "Netherwood." Milton is now at hand on the west
+bank, with its cosy landing and _West Shore Railroad_ station. This
+pleasant village was one of the loved spots of J. G. Holland, and the
+home of Mary Hallock Foote, until a modern "Hiawatha" took our Hudson
+"Minnehaha" to far away western mountains.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The tulip tree majestic stirs
+    Far down the water's marge beside,
+  And now awake the nearer firs,
+    And toss their ample branches wide.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Springbrook=, opposite Milton, a place of historic interest, near the
+river bank, was bought by Theophilus Anthony before the Revolution.
+Some of the links of the famous chain in the Highlands were forged
+here in 1777. When the British ships ascended the river the family
+fled to the woods, all but an old colored servant woman who wisely
+furnished the soldiers a good dinner and got thereby their good will
+to save the house. The old Flour Mill, however, was burned which stood
+on the same site as the present Springbrook Mill. Theophilus Anthony's
+only daughter married Thomas Gill after the Revolution, and from that
+time the property has been in the Gill family. Few places in the
+Hudson Valley have such ancient and continuous family history.
+
+=Locust Grove=, with square central tower and open outlook, residence
+of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph, is seen on
+the west bank; also the "Lookout," once known as Mine Hill, now a part
+of Poughkeepsie cemetery, with charming driveway to the wooded point
+where the visitor can see from his carriage one of the finest views
+of the Hudson. The completion of this drive is largely due to the
+enterprise of the late Mr. George Corlies, who did much to make
+Poughkeepsie beautiful. The view from this "Lookout" takes in the
+river for ten miles to the south, and reaches on the north to the
+Catskills. In a ramble with Mr. Corlies over Lookout Point, he told
+the writer that it was originally the purpose of Matthew Vassar to
+erect a monument on Pollopel's Island to Hendrick Hudson. Mr. Corlies
+suggested this point as the most commanding site. Mr. Vassar visited
+it, and concluded to place the monument here. He published an article
+in the Poughkeepsie papers to this effect, and, meeting Mr. Corlies
+one week afterwards, said, "Not one person in the city of Poughkeepsie
+has referred to my monument. I have decided to build a college for
+women, where they can learn what is useful, practical and sensible."
+It is interesting to note the fountain-idea of the first woman's
+college in the world, as it took form and shape in the mind of its
+founder.
+
+[Illustration: POUGHKEEPSIE BRIDGE]
+
+[Illustration: TROPHY POINT, WEST POINT]
+
+[Illustration: OLD CRO' NEST AND STORM KING]
+
+[Illustration: POLLIPEL'S ISLAND AND MOUNT TAURUS]
+
+[Illustration: THE CATSKILLS FROM THE HUDSON]
+
+[Illustration: NORTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS]
+
+       * * *
+
+  And from their leaguering legions thick and vast
+  The galling hail-shot in fierce volley falls,
+  While quick, from cloud to cloud, darts o'er the levin
+  The flash that fires the batteries of heaven!
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: MORNING VIEW AT BLUE POINT.]
+
+We now see =Blue Point=, on the west bank; and, in every direction,
+enjoy the finest views. The scenery seems to stand, in character,
+between the sublimity of the Highlands and the tranquil, dreamy repose
+of the Tappan Zee. It is said that under the shadow of these hills was
+the favorite anchorage of--
+
+=The Storm Ship=, one of our oldest and most reliable legends. The
+story runs somewhat as follows: Years ago, when New York was a
+village--a mere cluster of houses on the point now known as the
+Battery--when the Bowery was the farm of Peter Stuyvesant, and the Old
+Dutch Church on Nassau Street (which also long since disappeared),
+was considered the country--when communication with the old world was
+semi-yearly instead of semi-weekly or daily--say two hundred years
+ago--the whole town one evening was put into great commotion by the
+fact that a ship was coming up the bay.
+
+       * * *
+
+  See you beneath yon sky so dark
+  Fast gliding along a gloomy bark:--
+  By skeleton shapes her sails are furled,
+  And the hand that steers is not of this world.
+
+  _Legend of the Storm Ship._
+
+       * * *
+
+She approached the Battery within hailing distance, and then, sailing
+against both wind and tide, turned aside and passed up the Hudson.
+Week after week and month after month elapsed, but she never returned;
+and whenever a storm came down on Haverstraw Bay or Tappan Zee, it
+is said that she could be seen careening over the waste; and, in the
+midst of the turmoil, you could hear the captain giving orders, in
+_good Low Dutch_; but when the weather was pleasant, her favorite
+anchorage was among the shadows of the picturesque hills, on the
+eastern bank, a few miles above the Highlands. It was thought by some
+to be Hendrick Hudson and his crew of the "Half Moon," who, it was
+well known, had once run aground in the upper part of the river,
+seeking a northwest passage to China; and people who live in this
+vicinity still insist that under the calm harvest moon and the
+pleasant nights of September, they see her under the bluff of Blue
+Point, all in deep shadow, save her topsails glittering in the
+moonlight.
+
+=Poughkeepsie=, 74 miles from New York, is now at hand, Queen City
+of the Hudson, with name, derived from the Indian word Apokeepsing,
+signifying "safe harbor." Near the landing a bold headland juts out
+into the river, known as Kaal Rock, and no doubt this sheltering
+rock was a safe harbor in days of birch canoes. It has been recently
+claimed that the word signifies "muddy pond," which is neither true,
+appropriate or poetic. Poughkeepsie does not propose to give up
+her old-time "harbor name," particularly as it has been recently
+discovered that the name "Kipsie" was also given by the Indians to a
+"safe harbor" near the Battery on Manhattan Island. It is said that
+there are over forty different ways of spelling Poughkeepsie, and
+every year the postoffice record gives a new one. The first house was
+built in 1702 by a Mr. Van Kleeck. The State legislature had a session
+here in 1777 or 1778, when New York was held by the British and after
+Kingston had been burned by Vaughan.
+
+       * * *
+
+  On the crest of the waves, a something that glides
+  Before the stiff breeze, and gracefully rides
+  On the inflowing tide majestic and free
+  A huge and mysterious bird of the sea.
+
+  _Irving Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Ten years later, the State convention also met here for ratification
+of the Federal Constitution. The town has a beautiful location, and is
+justly regarded the finest residence city on the river. It is not
+only midway between New York and Albany, but also midway between the
+Highlands and the Catskills, commanding a view of the mountain portals
+on the south and the mountain overlook on the north--the Gibraltar of
+revolutionary fame and the dreamland of Rip Van Winkle.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The azure heaven is filled with smiles,
+  The water lisping at my feet
+  From weary thought my heart beguiles.
+
+  _Henry Abbey._
+
+       * * *
+
+The well known poet and _litterateur_, Joel Benton, who divides his
+residence between New York and Poughkeepsie, in a recent article,
+"The Midway City of the Hudson," written for the _Poughkeepsie Sunday
+Courier_, says:
+
+"Poughkeepsie as a township was incorporated in 1788. The village
+bearing the name was formed in 1799 (incorporated as a city in 1854),
+and soon became the center of a large trade running in long lines east
+and west from the river. Dutchess County had at this time but a sparse
+population. There was a post-road from New York to Albany; but the
+building of the Dutchess Turnpike from Poughkeepsie to Sharon, Conn.,
+connecting with one from that place to Litchfield, which took place
+in 1808, was a capital event in its history. This made a considerable
+strip of western Connecticut tributary to Poughkeepsie's trade.
+
+"Over the turnpike went four-horse Concord stages, with berailed top
+and slanting boot in the rear for trunks and other baggage. Each one
+had the tin horn of the driver; and it was difficult to tell upon
+which the driver most prided himself--the power to fill that thrilling
+instrument, or his deft handling of the ponderous whip and multiplied
+reins. Travelers to Hartford and Boston went over this route; and an
+east and west through and way mail was a part of the burden. A sort of
+overland express and freight line, styled the Market Wagon, ran in
+and out of the town from several directions. One or more of these
+conveyances started from as far east as the Housatonic River, and they
+frequently crowded passengers in amongst their motley wares.
+
+"Speaking of the stage-driver's horn recalls the fact that when the
+steamboat arrived--which was so solitary an institution that for some
+time it was distinctly called 'The Steamboat'--the tin horn did duty
+also for it. When it was seen in the distance, either Albanyward or in
+the New York direction, a boy went through the village blowing a horn
+to arouse those who wished to embark on it. It is said the expectant
+passengers had ample time, after the horn was sounded, to make their
+toilets, run down to the river (or walk down) and take passage on it.
+
+"In colonial days few were the people here; but they were a bright and
+stirring handful. It seems as if every man counted as ten. The De's
+and the Vans, the Livingstons, the Schuylers, the Montgomerys and ever
+so many more of the Hudson River Valley settlers are still making
+their impress upon the country. I suppose it need not now be counted
+strange that the strong mixture of Dutch and English settlers, with a
+few Huguenots, which finally made Dutchess county, were not a little
+divided between Tory and Whig inclinations. Around Poughkeepsie,
+and in its allied towns stretching between the Hudson River and the
+Connecticut line, there was much strife. Gov. George Clinton in his
+day ruled in the midst of much tumult and turbulence; but he held the
+reins with vigor, in spite of kidnappers or critics. When the British
+burned Kingston he prorogued the legislature to Poughkeepsie, which
+still served as a 'safe harbor.' As the resolution progressed the Tory
+faction was weakened, either by suppression or surrender.
+
+"It was in the Poughkeepsie Court House that, by _one_ vote, after a
+Homeric battle, the colony of New York consented to become a part of
+the American republic, which consent was practically necessary to its
+existence.
+
+"How large a part two small incidents played here towards the result of
+nationality. That single vote was one, and the news by express from
+Richmond, announcing Virginia's previous ratification--and added
+stimulus to the vote--was the other. Poughkeepsie honored in May,
+1824, the arrival of Lafayette, and dined him, besides exchanging
+speeches with him, both at the Forbus House, on Market Street, very
+nearly where the Nelson House now stands, and at the Poughkeepsie
+Hotel. It was one of Poughkeepsie's great days when he came. Daniel
+Webster has spoken in her court house; and Henry Clay, in 1844, when a
+presidential candidate, stopped for a reception. And it is said that,
+by a mere accident, she just missed contributing a name to the list of
+presidents of the United States. The omitted candidate was Nathaniel
+P. Talmadge. He could have had the vice-presidential candidacy, the
+story goes, in 1840, but would not take it. If he had accepted it, he
+would have gone into history not merely as United States senator
+from New York and afterwards Governor of Wisconsin territory, but as
+president in John Tyler's place.
+
+"In 1844, the New York State Fair was held here somewhere east of what
+is now Hooker Avenue. It was an occasion thought important enough then
+to be pictured and reported in the London _Illustrated News_. Two
+years after the telegraph wires were put up in this city, before they
+had yet reached the city of New York. Considering the fact that Prof.
+S. F. B. Morse, the telegraph inventor, had his residence here, this
+incident was not wholly inappropriate.
+
+"The advent in 1849 of the _Hudson River Railroad_, which was an
+enterprise in its day of startling courage and magnitude, constituted
+a special epoch in the history of Poughkeepsie and the Hudson River
+towns. Men of middle age here well remember the hostility and ridicule
+the project occasioned when it was first broached. Some said no
+railroad ever _could_ be built on the river's edge; and, if you
+should build one, the enormous expense incurred would make it forever
+unprofitable. It seemed then the height of Quixotism to lay an
+expensive track where the river offered a free way to all. Property
+holders, whose property was to be greatly benefited, fought the
+railroad company with unusual spirit and persistence. But the railroad
+came, nevertheless, and needs no advocate or apologist to-day. There
+is no one now living here who would ask its removal, any more than he
+would ask the removal of the Hudson River itself."
+
+       * * *
+
+  And lo! the Catskills print the distant sky,
+    And o'er their airy tops the faint clouds driven,
+  So softly blending, that the cheated eye
+    Forgets or which is earth or which is heaven.
+
+  _Theodore S. Fay_.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Mountains on mountains in the distance rise,
+  Like clouds along the far horizon's verge;
+  Their misty summits mingling with the skies,
+  Till earth and heaven seem blended into one.
+
+  _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+Poughkeepsie has been known for more than half a century as the City
+of Schools. The Parthenon-like structure which crowns College Hill was
+prophetic of a still grander and more widely known institution, the
+first in the world devoted to higher culture for women,--
+
+=Vassar College.=--This institution, founded by Matthew Vassar, and
+situated two miles east of the city, maintains its prestige not only
+as the first woman's college in point of time, but also first in
+excellence and influence. The grounds are beautiful and graced by
+noble buildings which have been erected year by year to meet the
+continued demands of its patrons. The college is not seen from the
+river but is of easy access by trolley from the steamboat landing.
+
+=Eastman College= is also one of the fixed and solid institutions
+of Poughkeepsie, located in the very heart of the city. It has
+accomplished good work in preparing young men for business, and has
+made Poughkeepsie a familiar word in every household throughout the
+land. It was fortunate for the city that the energetic founder of this
+college selected the central point of the Hudson as the place of all
+others most suited for his enterprise, and equally fortunate for the
+thousands of young men who yearly graduate from this institution,
+as the city is charmingly located and set like a picture amid
+picturesque scenery.
+
+Among many successful public institutions of Poughkeepsie are the
+Vassar Hospital, the Vassar Old Men's Home, the Old Ladies' Home, the
+State Hospital and the Vassar Institute of Arts and Sciences.
+
+       * * *
+
+    I went three times up the Hudson; and if I lived in
+    New York should be tempted to ascend it three times a
+    week during the summer.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+The opera house is one of the pleasantest in the country and received
+a high comment, still remembered, from Joseph Jefferson, for its
+perfect acoustic quality. The armory, the Adriance Memorial Library to
+the memory of Mr. and Mrs. John P. Adriance, and the historic Clinton
+House on Main Street purchased in 1898 by the Daughters of the
+Revolution, also claim the attention of the visitor. Several factories
+are here located, the best known being that of Adriance, Platt & Co.,
+whose Buckeye mowers and reapers have been awarded the highest honors
+in Germany, Holland, France, Belgium, Sweden, Norway, Italy, Russia,
+Switzerland, and the United States, and are sold in every part of
+the civilized globe. The Phoenix Horseshoe Co., the Knitting-Goods
+Establishment, and various shoe, shirt and silk thread factories
+contribute to the material prosperity of the town. The drives about
+Poughkeepsie are delightful. Perhaps the best known in the United
+States is the Hyde Park road, six miles in extent, with many palatial
+homes and charming pictures of park and river scenery. This is a part
+of the Old Post Road and reminds one by its perfect finish of the
+roadways of England. Returning one can take a road to the left leading
+by and up to
+
+=College Hill=, 365 feet in height, commanding a wide and extensive
+prospect. The city lies below us, fully embowered as in a wooded park.
+To the east the vision extends to the mountain boundaries of Dutchess
+County, and to the north we have a view of the Catskills marshalled as
+we have seen them a thousand times in sunset beauty along the horizon.
+This property, once owned by Senator Morgan and his heirs, was happily
+purchased by William Smith of Poughkeepsie, and given to the city as a
+public park. There is great opportunity here to make this a thing of
+beauty and a joy forever, for there are few views on the Hudson,
+and none from any hill of its height, that surpass it in extent and
+variety. The city reservoir lies to the north, about one hundred feet
+down the slope of College Hill.
+
+       * * *
+
+  My heart is on the hills. The shades
+    Of night are on my brow;
+  Ye pleasant haunts and quiet glades,
+    My soul is with you now!
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+The South Drive, a part of the Old Post Road, passes the gateway of
+the beautiful rural cemetery, Locust Grove and many delightful homes.
+Another interesting drive from Poughkeepsie is to Lake Mohonk and
+Minnewaska, well-known resorts across the Hudson, in the heart of the
+Shawangunk (pronounced Shongum) Mountains, also reached by railway
+or stages via New Paltz. There are also many extended drives to
+the interior of the county recommended to the traveler who makes
+Poughkeepsie for a time his central point; chief among these, Chestnut
+Ridge, formerly the home of the historian Benson J. Lossing, lying
+amid the hill country of eastern Dutchess. Its mean altitude is about
+1,100 feet above tide water, a fragment of the Blue Ridge branch of
+the Appalachian chain of mountains, cleft by the Hudson at West Point,
+stretching away to the Berkshire Hills. It is also easy of access by
+the _Harlem Railroad_ from New York to Dover Plains with three miles
+of carriage drive from that point. The outlook from the ridge is
+magnificent; a sweep of eighty miles from the Highlands to the
+Helderbergs, with the entire range of the Shawangunk and the
+Catskills. Mr. Lossing once said that his family of nine persons had
+required during sixteen years' residence on Chestnut Ridge, only ten
+dollars' worth of medical attendance. Previous to 1868 he had resided
+in Poughkeepsie, and throughout his life his form was a familiar one
+in her streets.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Thy waves are old companions, I shall see
+  A well-remembered form in each old tree
+  And hear a voice long-loved in thy wild minstrelsy.
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Dover Stone Church=, just west of Dover Plains Village, is also
+well worth a visit. Here a small stream has worn out a remarkable
+cavern in the rocks forming a gothic arch for entrance. It lies in a
+wooded gorge within easy walk from the village. Many years ago the
+writer of this handbook paid it an afternoon visit, and the picture
+has remained impressed with wonderful vividness. The archway opens
+into a solid rock, and a stream of water issues from the threshold. On
+entering the visitor is confronted by a great boulder, resembling an
+old-fashioned New England pulpit, reaching half way to the ceiling.
+The walls are almost perfectly arched, and garnished here and there
+with green moss and white lichen. A rift in the rocks extends the
+whole length of the chapel, over which trees hang their green foliage,
+which, ever rustling and trembling, form a trellis-work with the blue
+sky, while the spray rising from behind the rock-worn altar seems like
+the sprinkling of holy incense. After all these years I still hear the
+voice of those dashing waters and dream again, as I did that day, of
+the brook of Cherith where ravens fed the prophet of old. It is said
+by Lossing, in his booklet on the Dover Stone Church, that Sacassas,
+the mighty sachem of the Pequoids and emperor over many tribes between
+the Thames and the Hudson River, was compelled after a disastrous
+battle which annihilated his warriors, to fly for safety, and, driven
+from point to point, he at last found refuge in this cave, where
+undiscovered he subsisted for a few days on berries, until at last he
+made his way through the territory of his enemies, the Mahicans, to
+the land of the Mohawks.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Tell me, where'er thy silver bark be steering,
+    Bright Dian floating by fair Persian lands,
+  Tell if thou visited, thou heavenly rover,
+   A lovelier stream than this the wide world over.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Poughkeepsie to Kingston.=
+
+Leaving the Poughkeepsie dock the steamer approaches the Poughkeepsie
+Bridge which, from Blue Point and miles below, has seemed to the
+traveler like a delicate bit of lace-work athwart the landscape,
+or like an old-fashioned "valance" which used to hang from Dutch
+bedsteads in the Hudson River farm houses. This great cantilever
+structure was begun in 1873, but abandoned for several years. The work
+was resumed in 1886 just in time to save the charter, and was finished
+by the Union Bridge Company in less than three years. The bridge is
+12,608 feet in length (or about two miles and a half), the track being
+212 feet above the water with 165 feet clear above the tide in the
+centre span. The breadth of the river at this point is 3,094 feet. The
+bridge originally cost over three million dollars and much more has
+been annually spent in necessary improvements. It not only affords a
+delightful passenger route between Philadelphia and Boston, but also
+brings the coal centres of Pennsylvania to the very threshold of New
+England. Two railroads from the east centre here, and what was once
+considered an idle dream, although bringing personal loss to many
+stockholders, has been of material advantage to the city.
+
+As the steamer passes under the bridge the traveler will see on the
+left Highland station (_West Shore Railroad_) and above this the old
+landing of New Paltz. A well traveled road winds from the ferry and
+the station, up a narrow defile by the side of a dashing stream,
+broken here and there in waterfalls, to Highland Village, New Paltz
+and Lake Mohonk. _The Bridge and Trolley Line_ from Poughkeepsie make
+a most delightful excursion to New Paltz, on the Wallkill, seat of one
+of the State normal colleges.
+
+       * * *
+
+  My thoughts go back to thee, oh lovely lake,
+  Lake of the Sky Top! as thy beauties break
+  Upon the traveller of thy mountain road,
+  While sunset gilds thee, vision never fairer glowed!
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+Prominent among many pleasant residences above Poughkeepsie are:
+Mrs. F. J. Allen's of New York, Mrs. John F. Winslow's, Mrs. Thomas
+Newbold's, J. Roosevelt's and Archie Rogers'. The large red buildings
+above the Poughkeepsie water works are the Hudson River State
+Hospital. Passing Crum Elbow Point on the left and the Sisters of the
+White Cross Orphan Asylum, we see
+
+=Hyde Park=, 80 miles from New York, on the east bank, named some say,
+in honor of Lady Ann Hyde; according to others, after Sir Edward Hyde,
+one of the early British Governors of the colony. The first prominent
+place above Hyde Park, is Frederick W. Vanderbilt's, with Corinthian
+columns; and above this "Placentia," once the home of James K.
+Paulding.
+
+Immediately opposite "Placentia," at West Park on the west bank, is
+the home of John Burroughs, our sweetest essayist, the nineteenth
+century's "White of Selborne." Judge Barnard of Poughkeepsie, once
+said to the author of this handbook, "The best writer America has
+produced after Hawthorne is John Burroughs; I wish I could see him."
+It so happened that there had been an important "bank" suit a day or
+two previous in Poughkeepsie which was tried before the judge in which
+Mr. Burroughs had appeared as an important witness. The judge was
+reminded of this fact when he remarked with a few emphatic words, the
+absence of which seems to materially weaken the sentence: "Was that
+Burroughs? Well, well, I wish I had known it."
+
+       * * *
+
+  How soothing is this solitude
+  With nature in her wildest mood,
+  Where Hudson deep, majestic, wide,
+  Pours to the sea his monarch tide.
+
+  _William Wilson._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Mount Hymettus=, overlooking West Park, so named by "the author and
+naturalist," has indeed been to him a successful hunting-ground for
+bees and wild honey, and will be long remembered for sweeter stores of
+honey encombed and presented in enduring type. Washington Irving says
+of the early poets of Britain that "a spray could not tremble in the
+breeze, or a leaf rustle to the ground, that was not seen by these
+delicate observers and wrought up into some beautiful morality." So
+John Burroughs has studied the Hudson in all its moods, knowing well
+that it is not to be wooed and won in a single day. How clear this is
+seen in his articles on "Our River":
+
+"Rivers are as various in their forms as forest trees. The Mississippi
+is like an oak with enormous branches. What a branch is the Red River,
+the Arkansas, the Ohio, the Missouri! The Hudson is like the pine
+or poplar--mainly trunk. From New York to Albany there is only an
+inconsiderable limb or two, and but few gnarls and excrescences. Cut
+off the Rondout, the Esopus, the Catskill and two or three similar
+tributaries on the east side, and only some twigs remain. There
+are some crooked places, it is true, but, on the whole, the Hudson
+presents a fine, symmetrical shaft that would be hard to match in any
+river in the world. Among our own water-courses it stands preeminent.
+The Columbia--called by Major Winthrop the Achilles of rivers--is a
+more haughty and impetuous stream; the Mississippi is, of course,
+vastly larger and longer; the St. Lawrence would carry the Hudson as
+a trophy in his belt and hardly know the difference; yet our river is
+doubtless the most beautiful of them all. It pleases like a mountain
+lake. It has all the sweetness and placidity that go with such bodies
+of water, on the one hand, and all their bold and rugged scenery on
+the other. In summer, a passage up or down its course in one of the
+day steamers is as near an idyl of travel as can be had, perhaps,
+anywhere in the world. Then its permanent and uniform volume, its
+fullness and equipoise at all seasons, and its gently-flowing currents
+give it further the character of a lake, or of the sea itself. Of
+the Hudson it may be said that it is a very large river for its
+size,--that is for the quantity of water it discharges into the sea.
+Its watershed is comparatively small--less, I think, than that of the
+Connecticut. It is a huge trough with a very slight incline, through
+which the current moves very slowly, and which would fill from the sea
+were its supplies from the mountains cut off. Its fall from Albany to
+the bay is only about five feet. Any object upon it, drifting with the
+current, progresses southward no more than eight miles in twenty-four
+hours. The ebb-tide will carry it about twelve miles and the flood set
+it back from seven to nine. A drop of water at Albany, therefore, will
+be nearly three weeks in reaching New York, though it will get pretty
+well pickled some days earlier. Some rivers by their volume and
+impetuosity penetrate the sea, but here the sea is the aggressor, and
+sometimes meets the mountain water nearly half way. This fact was
+illustrated a couple of years ago, when the basin of the Hudson was
+visited by one of the most severe droughts ever known in this part of
+the State. In the early winter after the river was frozen over above
+Poughkeepsie, it was discovered that immense numbers of fish were
+retreating up stream before the slow encroachment of salt water. There
+was a general exodus of the finny tribes from the whole lower part of
+the river; it was like the spring and fall migration of the birds, or
+the fleeing of the population of a district before some approaching
+danger: vast swarms of cat-fish, white and yellow perch and striped
+bass were _en route_ for the fresh water farther north. When the
+people along shore made the discovery, they turned out as they do in
+the rural districts when the pigeons appear, and, with small gill-nets
+let down through holes in the ice, captured them in fabulous numbers.
+On the heels of the retreating perch and cat-fish came the denizens of
+the salt water, and codfish were taken ninety miles above New York.
+When the February thaw came and brought up the volume of fresh water
+again, the sea brine was beaten back, and the fish, what were left of
+them, resumed their old feeding-grounds.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Still on the Half-Moon glides: before her rise swarms
+    of quick water fowl, and from her prow the sturgeon
+    leaps, and falls with echoing splash.
+
+    _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beneath--the river with its tranquil flood,
+  Around--the breezes of the morning, scented
+  With odors from the wood.
+
+  _William Allen Butler._
+
+       * * *
+
+"It is this character of the Hudson, this encroachment of the sea upon
+it, on account of the subsidence of the Atlantic coast, that led
+Professor Newberry to speak of it as a drowned river. We have heard
+of drowned lands, but here is a river overflowed and submerged in the
+same manner. It is quite certain, however, that this has not always
+been the character of the Hudson. Its great trough bears evidence
+of having been worn to its present dimensions by much swifter and
+stronger currents than those that course through it now. To this
+gradual subsidence in connection with the great changes wrought by the
+huge glacier that crept down from the north during what is called the
+ice period, is owing the character and aspects of the Hudson as we see
+and know them. The Mohawk Valley was filled up by the drift, the Great
+Lakes scooped out, and an opening for their pent-up waters found
+through what is now the St. Lawrence. The trough of the Hudson was
+also partially filled and has remained so to the present day. There
+is, perhaps, no point in the river where the mud and clay are not from
+two to three times as deep as the water. That ancient and grander
+Hudson lies back of us several hundred thousand years--perhaps more,
+for a million years are but as one tick of the time-piece of the Lord;
+yet even _it_ was a juvenile compared with some of the rocks and
+mountains which the Hudson of to-day mirrors. The Highlands date
+from the earliest geological race--the primary; the river--the old
+river--from the latest, the tertiary; and what that difference
+means in terrestrial years hath not entered into the mind of man to
+conceive. Yet how the venerable mountains open their ranks for the
+stripling to pass through. Of course, the river did not force its way
+through this barrier, but has doubtless found an opening there of
+which it has availed itself, and which it has enlarged. In thinking
+of these things, one only has to allow time enough, and the most
+stupendous changes in the topography of the country are as easy
+and natural as the going out or the coming in of spring or summer.
+According to the authority above referred to, that part of our coast
+that flanks the mouth of the Hudson is still sinking at the rate of a
+few inches per century, so that in the twinkling of a hundred thousand
+years or so, the sea will completely submerge the city of New York,
+the top of Trinity Church steeple alone standing above the flood. We
+who live so far inland, and sigh for the salt water, need only to have
+a little patience, and we shall wake up some fine morning and find the
+surf beating upon our door-steps."
+
+       * * *
+
+    A sloop, loitering in the distance, dropped slowly
+    with the tide, her sail hanging loosely against the
+    mast; and as the reflection of the sky gleamed along
+    the still water, it seemed as if the vessel was suspended
+    in the air.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+How strange it seems in these brief years since 1880 to read of
+"Trinity Church steeple standing alone above the flood" as the rising
+tide of New York skyscrapers has long since overtopped the old
+landmark and is sweeping higher and higher day by day.
+
+The Frothingham residence and Frothingham dock are south of the
+Burroughs cottage. The late General Butterfield's house immediately to
+the north. The old Astor place (once known as Waldorf), is also near
+at hand. In our analysis of the Hudson we refer to the hills above and
+below Poughkeepsie as "The Picturesque." Any one walking or driving
+from Highland Village to West Park will feel that this is a proper
+distinction. The Palisades are distinguished for "grandeur" which
+might be defined as "horizontal sublimity." The Highlands for
+"sublimity" which might be termed "perpendicular grandeur;" the
+Catskills for "beauty," with their rounded form and ever changing
+hues, but the river scenery about Poughkeepsie abides in our memories
+as a series of bright and charming "pictures." North of Waldorf is
+Pelham, consisting of 1,200 acres, one of the largest fruit farms in
+the world. Passing Esopus Island, which seems like a great stranded
+and petrified whale, along whose sides often cluster Lilliputian-like
+canoeists, we see Brown's Dock on the west bank at the mouth of Black
+Creek, which rises eight miles from Newburgh on the eastern slope of
+the Plaaterkill Mountains. Flowing through Black Pond, known by the
+Dutch settlers as the "Grote Binnewater," it cascades its way along
+the southern slope of the Shaupeneak Mountains to Esopus Village,
+a cross-road hamlet, and thence carries to the Hudson its waters
+dark-stained by companionship with trees of hemlock and cedar growth.
+The Pell property extends on the west bank to Pell's Dock, almost
+opposite the Staatsburgh ice houses. Mrs. Livingston's residence will
+now be seen on the east bank, and just above this the home of the late
+William B. Dinsmore on Dinsmore Point. Passing Vanderberg Cove, cut
+off from the river by the tracks of the _New York Central Railroad_,
+we see the residence of Jacob Ruppert, and above this the Frinck
+mansion known as "Windercliffe," formerly the property of E. R. Jones,
+and next beyond the house of Robert Suckly. Passing Ellerslie Dock we
+see "Ellerslie," the palatial summer home of ex-Vice-President Levi
+P. Morton, an estate of six hundred acres, formerly owned by the Hon.
+William Kelly. Along the western bank extend the Esopus meadows, a low
+flat, covered by water, the southern end of which is marked by the
+Esopus light-house. To the west rises Hussey's Mountain, about one
+thousand feet in height, from under whose eastern slope two little
+ponds, known as Binnewaters, send another stream to join Black Creek
+before it flows into the Hudson. Port Ewen on the west bank, with ice
+houses and brick yards, will be seen by steamer passengers below the
+mouth of Rondout Creek.
+
+       * * *
+
+  At dawn the river seems a shade,
+    A liquid shadow deep as space,
+  But when the sun the mist has laid
+    A diamond shower smites its face.
+
+  _John Burroughs._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Rhinecliff=, 90 miles from New York. The village of Rhinebeck, two
+miles east of the landing, is not seen from the river. It was named,
+as some contend, by combining two words--Beekman and Rhine. Others say
+that the word beck means cliff, and the town was so named from the
+resemblance of the cliffs to those of the Rhine. There are many
+delightful drives in and about Rhinebeck, "Ellerslie" being only about
+eight minutes by carriage from the landing.
+
+_The Philadelphia & Reading Rhinebeck Branch_ meets the Hudson at
+Rhinecliff, and makes a pleasant and convenient tourist or business
+route between the Hudson and the Connecticut. It passes through a
+delightful country and thriving rural villages. Some of the views
+along the Roeliffe Jansen's Kill are unrivaled in quiet beauty. The
+railroad passes through Rhinebeck, Red Hook, Spring Lake, Ellerslie,
+Jackson Corners, Mount Ross, Gallatinville, Ancram, Copake, Boston
+Corners, and Mount Riga to State Line Junction, and gives a person a
+good idea of the counties of Dutchess and Columbia. At Boston Corners
+connection is made with the _Harlem Railroad_.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Upon thy tessellated surface lie
+  The wave-glassed splendors of the sunset sky!
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+From State Line Junction it passes through Ore Hill, Lakeville with
+its beautiful lake (an evening view of which is still hung in our
+memory gallery of sunset sketches), Salisbury, Chapinville, and Twin
+Lakes to Canaan, where the line crosses the _Housatonic Railroad._
+This route, therefore, is the easiest and pleasantest for Housatonic
+visitors _en route_ to the Catskills. From Canaan the road rises by
+easy grade to the summit, at an elevation of 1,400 feet, passing
+through the village of Norfolk, with its picturesque New England
+church crowning the village hill, and thence to Simsbury and Hartford.
+
+=The City of Kingston.=--Rondout and Kingston gradually grew together
+until the bans were performed in 1878, and a "bow-knot" tied at
+the top of the hill in the shape of a city hall, making them one
+corporation.
+
+The name Rondout had its derivation from a redoubt that was built
+on the banks of the creek. The creek took the name of Redoubt Kill,
+afterward Rundoubt, and at last Rondout. Kingston was once called
+Esopus. (The Indian name for the spot where the city now stands was
+At-kar-karton, the great plot or meadow on which they raised corn or
+beans.)
+
+Kingston and Rondout were both settled in 1614, and old Kingston,
+known by the Dutch as Wiltwyck, was thrice destroyed by the Indians
+before the Revolution. In 1777 the State legislature met here and
+formed a constitution. In the fall of the same year, after the capture
+of Fort Montgomery and Fort Clinton by the British, Vaughan landed at
+Rondout, marched to Kingston, and burned the town. While Kingston
+was burning, the inhabitants fled to Hurley, where a small force of
+Americans hung a messenger who was caught carrying dispatches from
+Clinton to Burgoyne.
+
+       * * *
+
+  What ample bays and branching streams,
+    What curves abrupt for glad surprise,
+  And how supreme the artist is
+    Who paints it all for loving eyes.
+
+  _Henry Abbey._
+
+       * * *
+
+Rondout is the termination of the Delaware and Hudson Canal (whence
+canal boats of coal find their way from the Pennsylvania Mountains
+to tidewater), also of the _Ulster and Delaware Railroad_, by which
+people find their way from tidewater to the Catskill Mountains, which
+have greeted the eye of the tourist for many miles down the Hudson.
+Originally all of the country-side in this vicinity was known as
+Esopus, supposed to be derived, according to Ruttenber, from the
+Indian word "seepus," a river. A "sopus Indian" was a Lowlander, and
+the name is intimately connected with a long reach of territory
+from Esopus Village, near West Park, to the mouth of the Esopus at
+Saugerties. In 1675 the mouth of the Rondout Creek was chosen by the
+New Netherland Company as one of the three fortified trading ports
+on the Hudson; a stockade was built under the guidance of General
+Stuyvesant in 1661 inclosing the site of old Kingston; a charter was
+granted in 1658 under the name of Wiltwyck, but changed in 1679 to
+Kingston. Few cities are so well off for old-time houses that span the
+century, and there is no congregation probably in the United States
+that has worshipped so many consecutive years in the same spot as the
+Dutch Reformed people of Kingston. Five buildings have succeeded the
+log church of 240 years ago. Dr. Van Slyke, in a recent welcome, said:
+"This church, which opens her doors to you, claims a distinction which
+does not belong even to the Collegiate Dutch Churches of Manhattan
+Island, and, by a peculiar history, stands identified more closely
+with Holland than any other of the early churches of this country.
+When every other church of our communion had for a long time been
+associated with an American Synod, this church retained its relations
+to the Classis of Amsterdam, and, after a period of independency and
+isolation, it finally allied itself with its American sisterhood as
+late as the year 1808. We still have three or four members whose life
+began before that date."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Yet there are those who lie beside thy bed
+  For whom thou once didst rear the bowers that screen
+  Thy margin, and didst water the green fields;
+  And now there is no night so still that they
+  Can hear thy lapse.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+Dominie Blom was the first preacher in Kingston. The church where he
+preached and the congregation that gathered to hear him have been
+tenderly referred to by the Rev. Dr. Belcher:
+
+  "They've journeyed on from touch and tone;
+    No more their ears shall hear
+  The war-whoop wild, or sad death moan,
+    Or words of fervid prayer;
+  But the deeds they did and plans they planned,
+    And paths of blood they trod,
+  Have blessed and brightened all this land
+    And hallowed it for God."
+
+=The Senate House=, built in 1676 by Wessel Ten Broeck, who would seem
+by his name to have stepped bodily out of a chapter of Knickerbocker,
+was "burned" but not "down," for its walls stood firm. It was
+afterwards repaired, and sheltered many dwellers, among others,
+General Armstrong, secretary of war under President Madison. The
+Provincial Convention met in the court house at Kingston in 1777 and
+the Constitution was formally announced April 22d of that year. The
+first court was held here September 9th and the first legislature
+September 10th. Adjourning October 7th, they convened again August
+18th, 1779, and in 1780, from April 22d to July 2d, also for two
+months beginning January 27, 1783.
+
+It was in the yard in front of the court house that the Constitution
+of the State was proclaimed by Robert Berrian, the secretary of the
+Constitutional Convention, and it was there that George Clinton, the
+first Governor of the State, was inaugurated and took the oath of
+office. It was in the court house that John Jay, chief justice,
+delivered his memorable charge to the grand jury in September, 1777,
+and at the opening said: "Gentlemen, it affords me very sensible
+pleasure to congratulate you on the dawn of that free, mild, and equal
+government which now begins to rise and break from amidst the clouds
+of anarchy, confusion and licentiousness, which the arbitrary and
+violent domination of the King of Great Britain has spread, in greater
+or less degree, throughout this and other American states. And it
+gives me particular satisfaction to remark that the first fruits
+of our excellent Constitution appear in a part of this State whose
+inhabitants have distinguished themselves by having unanimously
+endeavored to deserve them." The court house bell was originally
+imported from Holland.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Pinched by famine and menaced by foe
+  In the cruel winters of long ago,
+  They worked and prayed and for freedom wrought,
+  Freedom of speech and freedom of thought.
+
+  _Frederica Davis Hatfield._
+
+       * * *
+
+The burning of Kingston seemed unnecessarily cruel, and it is said
+that Vaughan was wide of the truth when, to justify the same, he
+claimed that he had been fired upon from dwellings in the village.
+General Sharpe in his address before the Holland Society says: "The
+history of this county begins to be interesting at the earliest stages
+of American history: Visited by Dutchmen in 1614, and again in 1620,
+it was in the very earliest Colonial history, one of the strong places
+of the Province of New York. The British museum contains the report
+of the Rev. John Miller, written in the year 1695, who, after 'having
+been nearly three years resident in the Province of New York, in
+America, as chaplain of His Majesty's forces there, and constantly
+attending the Governor, had opportunity of observing many things of
+considerable consequence in relation to the Christians and Indians,
+and had also taken the drafts of all the cities, towns, forts and
+churches of any note within the same.' These are his own words, and
+he adds that in the Province of New York 'the places of strength are
+chiefly three, the city of New York, the city of Albany, and the town
+of Kingstone, in Ulster.' The east, north and west fronts ran along
+elevations overlooking the lowlands and having a varying altitude
+of from twenty to thirty feet. The enclosure comprehended about
+twenty-five acres of land. There were salients, or horn works at each
+end of the four angles, with a circular projection at the middle
+of the westerly side, where the elevation was less than upon the
+northerly and easterly sides. The church standing upon the ground
+where we now are, was enclosed with a separate stockade, to be used
+as the last resort in case of disaster, and, projecting from this
+separate fortification, a strong block-house commanded and enfiladed
+the approaches to the southerly side, which was a plain. The local
+history is of continued and dramatic interest. The Indian wars were
+signalized by a great uprising and attack here, which was known as
+the war of 1663, when a considerable number of the inhabitants
+were killed, a still larger number were taken prisoners, and about
+one-fourth of the houses were burned to the ground. Reinforcements
+were sent by the governor-general from New Amsterdam, followed by his
+personal presence, when the Indians were driven back to the mountains,
+and, after a tedious campaign, their fields destroyed and the
+prisoners recaptured. When the next great crisis in our history came
+Kingston bore a conspicuous part. It was the scene of the formation of
+the State Government. The Constitution was here discussed and
+adopted. George Clinton was called from the Highlands, where, as a
+brigadier-general of the Continental army, he was commanding all the
+forces upon the Hudson River, which were opposing the attempts of Sir
+Henry Clinton to reach the northern part of the State and relieve
+Burgoyne, hemmed in by Gates at Saratoga. He was the ideal war
+governor--unbuckling his sword in the court room, that he might take
+the oath of office, and returning, immediately after the simple form
+of his inauguration, to his command upon the Hudson River.
+
+       * * *
+
+  A paradise of beauty in the light
+  Poured by the sinking sun, the mountain glows
+  In the soft summer evening.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+"The court house, standing opposite to us, and rebuilt upon its old
+foundations, and occupying, substantially, the same superficies of
+ground with its predecessors, recalls the dramatic scene where,
+surrounded by the council of safety, and in a square formed by two
+companies of soldiers, he was proclaimed Governor by Egbert Dumond,
+the sheriff of the county, reading his proclamation from the top of a
+barrel, and closing it with the words 'God save the people,' for the
+first time taking the place of 'God save the King.' The only building
+in any way connected with the civil foundation of this great State is
+still standing, and presents the same appearance that it did at the
+time of its erection, prior to the year 1690. It was subsequently
+occupied by General Armstrong, who, while residing here for the better
+education of his children, in Kingston Academy, was appointed minister
+to France. Aaron Burr, then in attendance upon court, spent an evening
+with General Armstrong, at his house, and, having observed the merit
+of sundry sketches, made inquiry with regard to, and interested
+himself in the fate of John Vanderlyn, who afterwards painted the
+Landing of Columbus in the Capitol, and Marius upon the Ruins of
+Carthage--which attracted the attention of the elder Napoleon, and
+established Vanderlyn's fame. There are more than forty blue limestone
+houses of the general type found in Holland, still standing to-day,
+which were built before the revolutionary period, and many of them
+before the year 1700."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Are there no scenes to touch the poet's soul,
+    No deeds of arms to wake the lordly stream,
+  Shall Hudson's billows unregarded roll?
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+  River, oh river! upon thy tide
+  Gaily the freighted vessels glide.
+  Would that thou thus couldst bear away
+  The thoughts that burthen my weary day.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+Coal, cement and blue-stone are the prominent industries of the city.
+The cement works yield several million dollars annually and employ
+about two thousand men. A million tons of coal enter the Hudson _via_
+the Port of Rondout from the Wyoming Valley of Pennsylvania every
+year. Blue-stone also meets tide-water at this point, brought in from
+quarries throughout the country by rail or by truck. The city of
+Kingston, the largest station on the _West Shore_ between Weehawken
+and Albany, has admirable railroad facilities connecting with the
+_Erie Railway_ at Goshen _via_ the _Wallkill Valley_, and the
+Catskills _via_ the _Ulster & Delaware_. All roads centre at the Union
+Station and the _Ulster & Delaware_ connects at Kingston Point with
+the Hudson River Day Line, also with the _New York Central_ by ferry
+from Rhinebeck.
+
+=To the Catskills.=--The two principal routes to the Catskills are
+_via_ Kingston and the _Ulster & Delaware Railroad_, and _via_
+Catskill Landing, the _Catskill Mountain Railway_ and _Otis Elevating
+Railway_ to the summit of the mountains. It has occurred to the writer
+to divide the mountain section in two parts:
+
+=The Southern Catskills.=--Kingston Point, where the steamer lands is
+indeed a _picturesque portal to a picturesque journey_. The beautiful
+park at the landing presents the most beautiful frontage of any
+pleasure ground along the river. Artistic pagodas located at effective
+points add greatly to the natural landscape effect, and excursionists
+_via_ Day Line from Albany have a delightful spot for lunch and
+recreation while waiting for the return steamer. In the busy months of
+mountain travel it is interesting to note the rush and hurry between
+the landing of the steamer and the departure of the train. The "all
+aboard" is given, and as we stand on the rear platform a friend points
+north to a bluff near Kingston Point and says the Indian name is
+"Ponckhockie"--signifying a burial ground. The old redoubts of
+Kingston, on the left, were defenses used in early days against the
+Indians.
+
+After leaving Kingston Union Depot, the most important station on
+the _West Shore Railroad_, and the terminus of the _Wallkill Valley
+Railroad_, we pass through Stony Hollow, eight miles from Rondout,
+where the traveler will note the stone tracks in the turnpike below,
+on the right side of the car, used by quarry wagons. Crossing the
+Stony Hollow ravine, we reach West Hurley, nine miles from Rondout and
+540 feet above the sea.
+
+=The Overlook= commands an extensive view,--with an area of 30,000
+square miles, from the peaks of New Hampshire and the Green Mountains
+of Vermont to the hills of New Jersey and Pennsylvania. To the east
+the valley reaches away with its towns and villages to the blue hills
+of Massachusetts and Connecticut, and, through this beautiful valley,
+the Hudson for a hundred miles is reduced to a mere ribbon of light.
+Woodstock, at the foot of the Overlook, is popular with summer
+visitors, and is a good starting point for the mountain outlook.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Let me forget the cares I leave behind,
+  And with an humble spirit bow before
+  The Maker of these everlasting hills.
+
+  _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Olive Branch= is the pretty name of the station above West Hurley.
+Temple Pond, at the foot of Big Toinge Mountain, covers about one
+hundred acres, and affords boating and fishing to those visiting the
+foothills of the Southern Catskills.
+
+=Brown's Station= is three miles beyond, and near at hand Winchell's
+Falls on the Esopus. The Esopus Creek comes in view near this station
+for the first time after leaving Kingston. The route now has pleasant
+companionship for twenty miles or more with the winding stream.
+
+=Brodhead's Bridge= is delightfully located on its wooded banks near
+the base of High Point, and near at hand is a bright cascade known as
+Bridal Veil Falls.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Then climb the Ontioras to behold
+    The lordly Hudson marching to the main,
+  And say what bard in any land of old
+    Had such a river to inspire his strain.
+
+  _Thomas William Parsons._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Shokan=, 18 miles from Rondout. Here the road takes a northerly
+course and we are advised by Mr. Van Loan's guide to notice on the
+left "a group of five mountains forming a crescent; the peaks of
+these mountains are four miles distant;" the right-hand one is the
+"Wittenberg," and the next "Mount Cornell." Boiceville and Mount
+Pleasant, 700 feet above the Hudson, are next reached. We enter the
+beautiful Shandaken Valley, and three miles of charming mountain
+scenery bring us to--
+
+=Phoenicia=, 29 miles from Rondout and 790 feet above the Hudson.
+This is one of the central points of the Catskills which the mountain
+streams (nature's engineers), indicated several thousand years ago.
+Readers of "Hiawatha" will remember that Gitche Manitou, the mighty,
+traced with his finger the way the streams and rivers should run. The
+tourist will be apt to think that he used his thumb in marking out
+the wild grandeur of Stony Clove. The Tremper House has a picturesque
+location in a charming valley, which seems to have been cut to fit,
+like a beautiful carpet, and tacked down to the edge of these grand
+old mountains. A fifteen minutes' walk up Mount Tremper gives a wide
+view, from which the Lake Mohonk House is sometimes seen, forty
+miles away. Phoenicia is one of the most important stations on the
+line--the southern terminus of the Stony Clove and Catskill Mountain
+division of the _Ulster & Delaware_ system. Keeping to the main line
+for the present we pass through Allaben, formerly known as Fox Hollow,
+and come to--
+
+=Shandaken=, 35 miles from Rondout and 1,060 feet in altitude, an
+Indian name signifying "rapid water." Here are large hotels and many
+boarding houses and the town is a central point for many mountain
+spots and shady retreats in every direction--all of which are well
+described in one of the handsomest summer resort guides of the season,
+the handbook of the _Ulster & Delaware Railroad_. Three miles beyond
+Shandaken we come to a little station whose name reminds one of the
+plains: _Big Indian_, 1,209 feet above the river.
+
+       * * *
+
+            Along the ragged top
+  Smiles a rich stripe of gold that up still glides
+  Until it dwindles to a thread and then,
+  As breath glides from a mirror, melts away.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Big Indian.=--It is said that about a century ago, a noble red man
+dwelt in these parts, who, early in life, turned his attention to
+agriculture instead of scalping, and won thereby the respect of the
+community. Tradition has it that he was about seven feet in height,
+but was overpowered by wolves, and was buried by his brethren not far
+from the station, where a "big Indian" was carved out of a tree near
+by for his monument. An old and reliable inhabitant stated that he
+remembered the rude statue well, and often thought that it ought to be
+saved for a relic, as the stream was washing away the roots; but it
+was finally carried down by a freshet, and probably found its way to
+some fire-place in the Esopus Valley. "So man passes away, as with a
+flood." There is another tale, one of love but less romantic, wherein
+he was killed by his rival and placed upright in a hollow tree.
+Perhaps neither tradition is true, and quite possibly the Big Indian
+name grew out of some misunderstanding between the Indians and white
+settlers over a hundred years ago. As the train leaves the station it
+begins a grade of 150 feet per mile to--
+
+=Pine Hill=, a station perched on the slope of Belle Ayr Mountain.
+This is the watershed between the Esopus and the Delaware, and 226
+feet above us, around the arcs of a double horseshoe, is the railway
+summit, 1,886 feet above the tide.
+
+=Grand Hotel Station.=--The New Grand, the second largest hotel in the
+Catskills, with a frontage of 700 feet, stands on a commanding terrace
+less than half a mile from the station. The main building faces
+southwest and overlooks the hamlet of Pine Hill, down the Shandaken
+Valley to Big Indian. The mountains, "grouped like giant kings" in
+the distance are Slide Mountain, Panther Mountain, Table and Balsam
+Mountains. Panther Mountain, directly over Big Indian Station, with
+Atlas-like shoulders, being nearer, seems higher, and is often
+mistaken for Slide Mountain. Table Mountain, to the right of the
+Slide, is the divide between the east branch of the Neversink and the
+Rondout.
+
+Continuing our journey from the summit we pass through Fleischmann's
+to--
+
+=Arkville=, railway station for Margaretville, one and a half miles
+distant, and Andes twelve miles--connected by stages. Furlough Lake,
+the mountain home of George Gould, is seven miles from Arkville. An
+artificial cave near Arkville, with hieroglyphics on the inner
+walls, attracts many visitors. Passing through Kelly's Corners and
+Halcottville, we come to--
+
+=Roxbury= (altitude 1,497 feet), a quaint old village at the upper end
+of which is the Gould Memorial Church. Miss Helen Gould spends part of
+her summer here and has done much to make beautiful the village of her
+father's boyhood. Grand Gorge comes next 1,570 feet above the tide,
+where stages are taken for Gilboa three miles, and Prattsville five
+miles distant, on the Schoharie Creek. Pratt's Rocks are visited by
+hundreds because of the carving in bas-relief of Colonel Pratt and
+figures emblematic of his career.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Softly the mist-mantled mountains arise
+  Dim in the dawning of opal-hued skies,
+  Nearer and clearer peaks burst on the view
+  Lightened by silvery flashes of dew.
+
+  _James Kennedy._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Stamford= is now at hand, seventy-six miles from the Hudson, about
+1,800 feet above the sea, named by settlers from Stamford, Conn. Here
+are many large hotels, chief among them The Rexmere and Churchill
+Hall. Thirteen miles from Stamford we come to Hobart, four miles
+further to South Kortright, and then to--
+
+=Bloomville=, eighty-nine miles from the Hudson, where a stage line of
+eight miles takes the traveler to Delhi. Passing through Kortright,
+ninety-two miles from the Hudson, 1,868 feet above the tide, East
+Meredith, Davenport, West Davenport (where passengers _en route_ for
+Cooperstown and Richfield Springs are transferred to the _Cooperstown
+and Charlotte Valley R. R._) and four miles bring us to
+
+=Oneonta=, on the Susquehanna division of the _Hudson & Delaware R. R._
+Returning to Phoenicia we take train through "Stony Clove Notch,"
+passing Chichester, Lanesville, Edgewood and Kaaterskill Junction to--
+
+=Hunter=, terminus of the Stony Clove Road. Resuming the eastward
+journey at Kaaterskill Junction we come to--
+
+=Tannersville=, near which are Elka Park, Onteora Park and Schoharie
+Manor.
+
+=Haines Corners= is another busy station, at the head of Kaaterskill
+Clove. On the slope of Mt. Lincoln have also been established
+"Twilight," "Santa Cruz" and "Sunset" Parks.
+
+=Laurel House Station.=--Here the voice of a waterfall invites the
+tourist to one of the most famous spots in the Catskill region and a
+mile beyond is
+
+=Kaaterskill Station=, 2,145 feet above the sea, the highest point
+reached by any railroad in the State, and half a mile or so further we
+alight on a rocky balcony, known for its beautiful view all over the
+world.
+
+       * * *
+
+  From greens and shades where the Kaaterskill leaps,
+  From cliffs where the wood-flowers cling.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Kingston to Catskill.=
+
+=Rhinecliff=, with its historic Beekman stone house, is on the east
+bank of the river opposite Kingston. The old mansion, on the hillside,
+above the landing, was built before 1700 by William Beekman, first
+patroon of this section. It was used as a church and as a fort during
+the Indian struggles and still preserves the scar of a cannon ball
+from a British ship.
+
+=Ferncliff=, a mile north of the Beekman House, is the home of John
+Jacob Astor, formerly the property of William Astor, and above this
+
+=Clifton Point=, once known as the Garretson place, the noted
+Methodist preacher whose wife was sister of Chancellor Livingston, and
+above this Douglas Merritt's home known as "Leacote." Flatbush landing
+lies on the west bank opposite Ferncliff.
+
+One might almost imagine from the names of places and individuals here
+grouped on both banks of the river, that this reach of the Hudson
+was a bit of old Scotland: Montgomery Place and Annandale with its
+Livingstons, Donaldsons and Kidds on the east side, and Glenerie,
+Glasgo and Lake Katrine on the west.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Catskills to the northward rise
+    With massive swell and towering crest--
+  The old-time "mountains of the skies,"
+    The threshold of eternal rest.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Barrytown= is just above "Daisy Island," on the east bank, 96 miles
+from New York. It is said when General Jackson was President, and this
+village wanted a postoffice, that he would not allow it under the name
+of Barrytown, from personal dislike to General Barry, and suggested
+another name; but the people were loyal to their old friend, and
+_went without_ a postoffice until a new administration. The name of
+Barrytown, therefore, stands as a monument to pluck. The place was
+once known as Lower Red Hook Landing. Passing "Massena," the Aspinwall
+property, we see--
+
+=Montgomery Place=, residence of Carleton Hunt and sisters, about
+one-half mile north of Barrytown, formerly occupied by Mrs.
+Montgomery, wife of General Montgomery and sister of Chancellor
+Livingston. The following dramatic incident connected with Montgomery
+Place is recorded in Stone's "History of New York City": "In 1818 the
+legislature of New York--DeWitt Clinton, Governor--ordered the remains
+of General Montgomery to be removed from Canada to New York. This was
+in accordance with the wishes of the Continental Congress, which, in
+1776, had voted the beautiful cenotaph to his memory that now stands
+in the wall of St. Paul's Church, fronting Broadway. When the funeral
+cortege reached Whitehall, N. Y., the fleet stationed there received
+them with appropriate honors; and on the 4th of July they arrived in
+Albany. After lying in state in that city over Sunday, the remains
+were taken to New York, and on Wednesday deposited, with military
+honors, in their final resting place, at St. Paul's. Governor Clinton
+had informed Mrs. Montgomery of the hour when the steamer 'Richmond,'
+conveying the body, would pass her home. At her own request, she stood
+alone on the portico. It was forty years since she had parted from her
+husband, to whom she had been wedded but two years when he fell on the
+heights of Quebec; yet she had remained faithful to the memory of her
+'soldier,' as she always called him. The steamboat halted before the
+mansion; the band played the 'Dead March,' and a salute was fired; and
+the ashes of the venerated hero, and the departed husband, passed on.
+The attendants of the Spartan widow now appeared, but, overcome by
+the tender emotions of the moment, she had swooned and fallen to the
+floor."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The river that he loved so well
+    Like a full heart is awed to calm,
+  The winter air that wafts his knell
+    Is fragrant with autumnal balm.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Sawkill Creek flows through a beautiful ravine in Montgomery
+grounds and above this is the St. Stephen's College and Preparatory
+School of the Episcopal Church in the Diocese of New York. Beyond and
+above this are Mrs. E. Bartlett's home and Deveaux Park, afterwards
+Almonte, the property of Col. Charles Livingston. We are now
+approaching--
+
+=Cruger's Island=, with its indented South Bay reaching up toward the
+bluff crowned by Montgomery Place. There is an old Indian tradition
+that no person ever died on this island, which a resident recently
+said still held true. It is remarkable, moreover, in possessing many
+antique carved stones from a city of Central America built into the
+walls of a temple modeled after the building from which the graven
+stones were brought. The "ruin" at the south end of the island is
+barely visible from the steamer, hidden as it is by foliage, but it is
+distinctly seen by _New York Central_ travelers in the winter season.
+Colonel Cruger has spared no expense in the adornment of his grounds,
+and a beautiful drive is afforded the visitor. The island is connected
+by a roadway across a tongue of land which separates the North from
+the South Bay. Above this island east of the steamer's channel across
+the railway of the _New York Central_, we see a historic bit of water
+known as--
+
+=The North Bay.= It was here that Robert Fulton developed his
+steamboat invention, receiving pecuniary aid from Chancellor
+Livingston, and it is fitting to give at this place a concise account
+of
+
+=Steam Navigation=, which after many attempts and failures on both
+sides of the Atlantic was at last crowned with success on the Hudson.
+
+=John Fitch= first entertained his idea of a steamboat in 1785, and
+sent to the general assembly of the State of Pennsylvania a model in
+1786. New Jersey and Delaware in 1787, gave him exclusive right to
+navigate their waters for fourteen years, which, however, was never
+undertaken. His steamboat "Perseverance," on the Delaware in 1787, was
+eighteen feet in length and six feet beam. The name, however, was a
+misnomer, as it was abandoned. These facts appear by papers on file in
+the State Library at Albany. After his experiment on the Delaware,
+he traveled through France and England, but not meeting with the
+encouragement that he expected, became poor and returned home, working
+his passage as a common sailor. In 1797 he constructed a little boat
+which was propelled by steam in the old Collect Pond, New York, below
+Canal Street, between Broadway and the East River.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Exactly one hundred years separate the first paddle-boat
+    of Papin from the first steamboat of Fulton.
+
+    _Victor Hugo._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to records in the State Library, the steam was sufficiently
+high to propel the boat once, twice, or thrice around the pond. "When
+more water being introduced into the boiler or pot and steam was
+generated, she was again ready to start on another expedition." The
+boat was a yawl about eighteen feet in length and six feet beam. She
+was started at the buoy with a small oar when the propeller was used.
+The boiler was a ten or twelve gallon iron pot. This boat with a
+portion of the machinery was abandoned by Fitch, and left to decay on
+the muddy shore. Shortly after this he died in Kentucky in 1798. Had
+he lived, or, had the fortune like Fulton, to find such a patron as
+Livingston, his success might have been assured. His visit to Europe
+may have inspired Symington's experiment on Dalswinton Loch in 1788,
+which made five miles an hour, and another steamboat on the Forth
+of Clyde which made seven miles an hour in 1789, and the "Charlotte
+Dundas" in 1802, which drew a load of seventy tons over three miles
+against a strong gale. Something, however, was wanting and the idea
+of successful navigation was abandoned in Britain till after the
+invention of Robert Fulton which made steam navigation an assured
+fact.
+
+"How necessary it is to succeed," said Kosciusko, at the grave of
+Washington, and this is also as true in the story of invention as in
+the struggle for freedom: "That they never fail who die in a great
+cause though years elapse, and others share as dark a doom. They but
+augment the deep and sweeping thoughts which overpower all others and
+conduct the world at last to fortune."
+
+It was the writer's privilege in 1891, to deliver the unveiling
+address of a monument to Symington at his birthplace, Lead Hills,
+Scotland. In the tribute then paid to the genius of the great
+Scotchman who had done so much for invention in many directions, he
+said the difference between Symington and Fulton was this: "Each
+worked diligently at the same idea, but it was the good fortune
+of Fulton, so far as the steamboat was considered, to make his
+'invention' 'go.'"
+
+       * * *
+
+    I see the traditions of my fathers are true; I see far,
+    far away the big bird again floating upon the
+    waters, so far my warriors that you cannot see it, but ere two
+    autumns have scattered the leaves upon my grave, the
+    pale face will claim our hunting grounds.
+
+    _Aepgin, King of the Mahicans._
+
+       * * *
+
+To quote from a British writer, the "Comet" of Henry Bell on the Clyde
+in 1812, was the first example of a steamboat brought into serviceable
+use within European waters, and the writer incidentally added that
+steam navigation in Britain took practical form almost on the spot
+where James Watt, the illustrious improver of the steam engine was
+born. The word "improver" is well put. It has much to do with the
+story of many inventions. The labor of Fitch was far-reaching in
+many directions, and it detracts nothing from Fulton's fame that the
+experiments of Fitch and Symington preceded his final triumph.
+
+Rumsey's claim to the idea of application of steam in 1785 does not
+seem to hold good. General Washington, to whom he referred as to a
+conversation in 1785, replied to a correspondent that the idea of
+Rumsey, as he remembered and understood it, was simply the propelling
+of a boat by a machine, the power of which was to be merely manual
+labor.
+
+=Robert Fulton= was born in 1765, and at the time of Symington's
+experiment in Scotland, was twenty-three years of age. He was then an
+artist student of Benjamin West, in London, but, after several years
+of study, felt that he was better adapted for engineering, and soon
+thereafter wrote a work on canal navigation. In 1797 he went to Paris.
+He resided there seven years and built a small steamboat on the Seine,
+which worked well, but made very slow progress.
+
+It is remarkable that the two most practical achievements of our
+century have been consummated by artists,--the telegraph by Morse
+after a score of "invented" failures, and the successful application
+of steam to navigation by Fulton.
+
+       * * *
+
+    I was glad to think that among the last memorable
+    beauties which have glided past us were pictures traced
+    by no common hand, not easily to grow old or fade beneath
+    the dust of time--the Kaatskill Mountains, Sleepy
+    Hollow and the Tappan Zee.
+
+    _Charles Dickens._
+
+       * * *
+
+Soon after his return to New York he brought his idea to successful
+completion. His reputation was now assured, and his invention of
+"torpedoes" gave him additional fame. Congress not only purchased
+these instruments of warfare, but also set apart $320,000 for a steam
+frigate to be constructed under his supervision.
+
+Through Livingston's influence the legislature passed an act granting
+to Fulton the exclusive privilege of navigating the waters of the
+State by means of steam power. The only conditions imposed were that
+he should, within a year, construct a boat of not less than "twenty
+tons burthen," which should navigate the Hudson at a speed not less
+than four miles an hour, and that one such boat should not fail of
+running regularly between New York and Albany for the space of one
+year.
+
+="The Clermont,"= named after the ancestral home of the Livingstons,
+was built for "Livingston and Fulton," by Charles Brownne in New York.
+The machinery came from the works of Watt and Bolton, England. She
+left the wharf of Corlear's Hook and the newspapers published with
+pride that she made in speed from four to five miles an hour. She was
+100 feet in length and boasted of "three elegant cabins, one for the
+ladies and two for the gentlemen, with kitchen, library, and every
+convenience." She averaged 100 passengers up or down the river. Every
+passenger paid $7, for which he had dinner, tea and bed, breakfast and
+dinner, with the liberty to carry 200 pounds of baggage.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The stars are on the running stream,
+    And fling, as its ripples gently flow,
+  A burnished length of wavy-beam
+    In an eel-like, spiral line below.
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+An original letter from Robert Fulton to the minister of Bavaria at
+the court of France, written in 1809, upon the question of putting
+steamboats on the Danube, is of interest at the present day: "The
+distance from New York to Albany is 160 miles; the tide rises as far
+as Albany; its velocity is on an average 1½ miles an hour.
+
+"We thus have the tide half the time in favor of the boat and half the
+time against her. The boat is 100 feet long, 16 feet wide and 7 feet
+deep; the steam engine is of the power of 20 horses; she runs 4½
+miles an hour in still water. Consequently when the tide is 1½
+miles an hour in her favor she runs 5¾ miles an hour. When the
+tide is against her she runs 2¾ miles an hour. Thus in theory her
+average velocity is 4¼ miles an hour, but in practice we take
+advantage of the currents. When they are against us we keep near shore
+in the eddies, where the current is weak or the eddy in our favor;
+when the tide is in our favor we take the centre of the stream and
+draw every advantage from it. In this way our average speed is 5 miles
+an hour, and we run to Albany, 160 miles, in about 32 hours." Previous
+to the invention of the steamboat there were two modes of conveyance.
+One was by the common sloops; they charged 42 francs, and were on the
+average four days in making the passage--they have sometimes been as
+long as eight days. The dread of such tedious voyages prevented great
+numbers of persons from going in sloops. The second mode of conveyance
+was the mail, or stage. They charged $8, or 44 francs, and the
+expenses on the road were about $5, or 30 francs, so that expenses
+amounted to $13. The time required was 48 hours. The steamboat has
+rendered the communication between New York and Albany so cheap and
+certain that the number of passengers are rapidly increasing. Persons
+who live 150 miles beyond Albany know the hour she will leave that
+city, and making their calculations to arrive at York, stay two
+days to transact business, return with the boat, and are with their
+families in one week. The facility has rendered the boat a great
+favorite with the public.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Through many a blooming wild and woodland green
+  The Hudson's sleeping waters winding stray.
+
+  _Margaretta V. Faugeres._
+
+       * * *
+
+A telegram from Exeter, N. H., in 1886, recorded the death of Dr.
+William Perry, the oldest person in Exeter and the oldest graduate of
+Harvard College, at the age of ninety-eight years. He was the sole
+survivor of the passengers on Fulton's first steamboat on its first
+trip down the Hudson, and the connecting link of three generations of
+progress. He was born in 1788, was a member of 1811 in Harvard, and
+grandfather of Sarah Orne Jewett, the authoress.
+
+The writer remembers his grandfather telling him of going to Hudson as
+a boy to see the "steamboat" make its first trip, and how it had been
+talked of for a long time as "Fulton's Folly." One thing is sure
+it was a small cradle wherein to rock the "baby-giant" of a great
+century. How Fulton would wonder if he could visit to-day the great
+steamships born of his invention--successors of the "Clermont" of
+"Twenty tons burthen." How he would marvel, standing on the deck of
+the "Hendrick Hudson," to see the water fall away from the prow cut by
+a rainbow scimitar of spray! at the great engines of polished steel,
+working almost noiselessly, and wonder at the way the pilot lands at
+the docks, even as a driver brings his buggy to a horse-block; for in
+his day, and long afterwards, passengers were "slued" ashore in little
+boats, as it was not regarded feasible to land a steamboat against a
+wharf. It would surely be an "experience" for us to see the passengers
+at West Point, Newburgh, or Poughkeepsie "slued ashore" to-day in
+little rowboats.
+
+=Tivoli=, above North Bay took its name from a pre-revolutionary
+"Chateau," home of the late Colonel DePeyster. The "Callender Place"
+to the southeast, was formerly the property of Johnston Livingston.
+Two miles from the river is the home of Mr. J. N. Lewis, a morning view
+from whose veranda is still remembered, and it is to him that the
+writer is indebted for a pleasant trip to the ruins on Cruger's
+Island. The residence of the late J. Watts DePeyster stands on a
+commanding bluff north of the railway station and it was beside his
+open fireside many years ago that he told the writer how his house was
+saved from Vaughan's cannon. "Rose Hill," was mistaken for "Clermont,"
+but a well-stocked cellar mollified the British captain.
+
+       * * *
+
+  O! stream of the mountains if answer of thine
+  Could rise from thy waters to questions of mine,
+  Methinks through the din of thy thronged banks a moan
+  Of sorrow would come for the days that are gone.
+
+  _Legends of the Hudson._
+
+       * * *
+
+It grew like one of the old English family houses, with the increase
+of the family, until, in strange but picturesque outline--the
+prevailing style being Italian, somewhat in the shape of a cross--it
+is now 114 feet long by 87 feet deep. The tower in the rear, devoted
+to library purposes, rises to the height of about sixty feet. This
+library, first and last, has contained between twenty and thirty
+thousand volumes. Such indefinite language is used, because the owner
+donated over half this number to the New York Historical Society, the
+New York Society Library, and a number of other similar organizations
+in different parts of the United States. As a working library, replete
+with dictionaries and cyclopædias, in many tongues and on almost
+every subject, it is a marvel. It is likewise very valuable for its
+collections on military and several other special topics. From it was
+selected and given to the New York Historical Society, one of the
+finest possible collections on the History of Holland, from the
+earliest period down to the present time. "Rose Hill" was left in his
+will to the Leake and Watts Orphan Home.
+
+A ferry from Tivoli to Saugerties affords communication between the
+two villages. Glasco Landing, on the west bank, lies between the
+residences of Henry Corse, on the south, and Mrs. Vanderpool (sister
+of the late President Martin Van Buren), on the north.
+
+In locating the residences along the river and dealing so often in the
+words "north" and "south," we are reminded of a good story of Martin
+Van Buren. It is said that it was as difficult to get a direct answer
+from him as from Bismarck or Gladstone. Two friends were going up with
+him one day on a river boat and one made a wager with the other that
+a direct answer could not be secured on any question from the astute
+statesman. They approached the ex-president and one of them said, "Mr.
+Van Buren, my friend and I have had a little discussion; will you
+tell us, does or does not the sun rise in the east?" The ex-president
+calmly drew up a chair, and said, "You must remember that the east
+and west are merely relative terms." "That settles it," said the
+questioner, "I'll pay the bet."
+
+       * * *
+
+  How grateful is the sudden change
+    From arid pavements to the grass,
+  From narrow streets that thousands range
+    To meadows where June zephyrs pass.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+    It is a drop for the old Hudson, and a merry time it
+    has until it gets down off the mountains. I have thought
+    how long it would be before that very water which was
+    made for the wilderness will be under the bottom of a
+    vessel and tossing in the salt sea.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saugerties=, 101 miles from New York. From its location (being the
+nearest of the river towns to the Catskills), it naturally hoped to
+secure a large share of tourist travel, but Kingston and Catskill
+presented easier and better facilities of access and materially
+shortened the hours of arrival at the summit. Plaaterkill Clove,
+wilder and grander than Kaaterskill Clove, about nine miles west of
+the village, has Plaaterkill Mountain, Indian Head, Twin Mountains and
+Sugar Loaf on the south, and High Peak and Round Top on the north. Its
+eighteen waterfalls not only give great variety to a pedestrian trip,
+but also ample field for the artist's brush. The Esopus, meeting
+the Hudson at Saugerties, supplies unfailing waterpower for its
+manufacturing industries, prominent among which are the Sheffield
+Paper Company, the Barkley Fibre Company (wood pulp), the Martin
+Company (card board) and a white lead factory. There are also large
+shipments of blue stone, evidences of which are seen in many places
+near at hand along the western bank. Many attractive strolls near
+Saugerties invite the visitor, notably the walk to Barkley Heights
+south of the Esopus. An extensive view is obtained from the _West
+Shore Railroad_ station west of the village and the drive thereto.
+North of Saugerties will be seen the docks and hamlets of Malden,
+Evesport and West Camp, also the residences of J. G. Myers to the
+northwest of the Rock islet, and of H. T. Coswell, near which the
+steamer passes to the west of Livingston Flats. The west shore at West
+Camp was settled by exiles from the Palatinate, about 1710, and one of
+the old churches still stands a short distance inland. We are now in
+the midst of--
+
+=The Livingston Country=, whose names and memories dot the landscape
+and adorn the history of the Hudson Valley. Dutchess and Columbia
+Counties meet on the east bank opposite that part of Saugerties where
+Sawyer's Creek flows into the Hudson. "Idele" was originally called
+the Chancellor Place. "Clermont" is about half a mile to the north,
+the home of Clermont Livingston, an early manor house built by Robert
+R. Livingston, who, next to Hamilton, was the greatest New York
+statesman during our revolutionary period. The manor church, not seen
+from the river, is at the old village of Clermont, about five miles
+due west from the mansion. The Livingstons are of Scotch ancestry and
+have an illustrious lineage. Mary Livingston, one of the "four Marys"
+who attended Mary Queen of Scots during her childhood and education in
+France, was of the same family. Robert Livingston, born in 1654, came
+to the Hudson Valley with his father, and in 1686 purchased from the
+Indians a tract of country reaching east twenty-two miles to the
+boundary of Massachusetts with a river frontage of twelve miles. This
+purchase was created, "the Lordship and Manor of Livingston," by
+Governor Thomas Dongan. In 1692 Robert built the manor house, but did
+not reside in it for twenty years. He was a friend of Captain Kidd and
+a powerful promoter of his enterprises. The manor consisted of 260,000
+acres. The estate of 13,000 acres, given to his second son Robert, was
+called Clermont. Philip, his first son, inherited 247,000 acres, by
+old-time primogeniture succession. From each of these two families
+sprang a line of vigorous and resolute men. Robert R. Livingston,
+our revolutionary hero, descended from the smaller estate, owned
+"Clermont" at the time it was burned by the British. It was soon
+rebuilt and Lafayette was a guest at the mansion during his visit to
+the United States in 1824.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Let us not then neglect to improve the advantages we
+    possess; let us avail ourselves of the present moment to
+    fix lasting peace upon the broad basis of natural union;
+    let us while it is still in our power lay the foundation of
+    our long happiness and the happiness of our posterity.
+
+    _Robert R. Livingston._
+
+       * * *
+
+Above West Camp landing on the west side, is the boundary line between
+Ulster and Greene Counties; Ulster having kept us company all the way
+from Hampton Point opposite New Hamburgh. Throughout this long stretch
+of the river one industry must not be overlooked, well described by
+John Burroughs:
+
+=The Shad Industry.=--"When the chill of the ice is out of the river
+and the snow and frost out of the air, the fishermen along the shore
+are on the lookout for the first arrival of shad. A few days of warm
+south wind the latter part of April will soon blow them up; it is
+true also, that a cold north wind will as quickly blow them back.
+Preparations have been making for them all winter. In many a
+farm-house or other humble dwelling along the river, the ancient
+occupation of knitting of fish-nets has been plied through the long
+winter evenings, perhaps every grown member of the household, the
+mother and her daughters as well as the father and his sons, lending
+a hand. The ordinary gill or drift-net used for shad fishing in the
+Hudson is from a half to three-quarters of a mile long, and thirty
+feet wide, containing about fifty or sixty pounds of fine linen twine,
+and it is a labor of many months to knit one. Formerly the fish were
+taken mainly by immense seines, hauled by a large number of men; but
+now all the deeper part of the river is fished with the long, delicate
+gill-nets that drift to and fro with the tide, and are managed by two
+men in a boat. The net is of fine linen thread, and is practically
+invisible to the shad in the obscure river current: it hangs suspended
+perpendicularly in the water, kept in position by buoys at the top and
+by weights at the bottom; the buoys are attached by cords twelve or
+fifteen feet long, which allow the net to sink out of the reach of
+the keels of passing vessels. The net is thrown out on the ebb tide,
+stretching nearly across the river, and drifts down and then back on
+the flood, the fish being snared behind the gills in their efforts to
+pass through the meshes. I envy fishermen their intimate acquaintance
+with the river. They know it by night as well as by day, and learn all
+its moods and phases. The net is a delicate instrument that reveals
+all the hidden currents and by-ways, as well as all the sunken snags
+and wrecks at the bottom. By day the fisherman notes the shape and
+position of his net by means of the line or buoys; by night he marks
+the far end of it with a lantern fastened upon a board or block. The
+night tides he finds differ from the day--the flood at night being
+much stronger than at other times, as if some pressure had been
+removed with the sun, and the freed currents found less hindrance. The
+fishermen have terms and phrases of their own. The wooden tray upon
+which the net is coiled, and which sits in the stern of the boat, is
+called a 'cuddy.' The net is divided into 'shots.' If a passing sloop
+or schooner catches it with her centre-board or her anchor, it gives
+way where two or three shoots meet, and thus the whole net is not
+torn. The top cord or line of the net is called a 'cimline.' One
+fisherman 'plugs' another when he puts out from the shore and casts
+in ahead of him, instead of going to the general starting place, and
+taking his turn. This always makes bad blood. The luck of the born
+fisherman is about as conspicuous with the gill-net as with the rod
+and line, some boats being noted for their great catches the season
+through. No doubt the secret is mainly through application to the
+business in hand, but that is about all that distinguishes the
+successful angler. The shad campaign is one that requires pluck and
+endurance; no regular sleep, no regular meals; wet and cold, heat
+and wind and tempest, and no great gains at last. But the sturgeon
+fishers, who come later and are seen the whole summer through, have
+an indolent, lazy time of it. They fish around the 'slack-water,'
+catching the last of the ebb and the first of the flow, and hence
+drift but little either way. To a casual observer they appear as if
+anchored and asleep. But they wake up when they have a 'strike,' which
+may be every day, or not once a week. The fishermen keep their eye on
+the line of buoys, and when two or more of them are hauled under, he
+knows his game has run foul of the net, and he hastens to the point.
+The sturgeon is a pig, without the pig's obstinacy. He spends much of
+the time rooting and feeding in the mud at the bottom, and encounters
+the net, coarse and strong, when he goes abroad. He strikes, and is
+presently hopelessly entangled, when he comes to the top and is pulled
+into the boat, like a great sleepy sucker. For so dull and lubbery
+a fish, the sturgeon is capable of some very lively antics; as, for
+instance, his habit of leaping full length into the air and coming
+down with a great splash. He has thus been known to leap unwittingly
+into a passing boat, to his own great surprise, and to the alarm and
+consternation of the inmates."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The swelling river, into his green gulfs,
+  Unshadowed save by passing sails above,
+  Takes the redundant glory, and enjoys
+  The summer in his chilly bed.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+    I heard the plaintiff note of the Whip-poor-will from the
+    mountain-side, or was startled now and then by the
+    sudden leap and heavy splash of the sturgeon.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Germantown.=--Germantown Station is now seen on the east bank,
+and between this and Germantown Dock, three miles to the north, is
+obtained the best view of the "Man in the Mountain," readily traced by
+the following outline: The peak to the south is the knee, the next to
+the north is the breast, and two or three above this the chin, the
+nose and the forehead. How often from the slope of Hillsdale, forty
+miles away on the western trend of the Berkshires, when a boy, playing
+by the fountain-heads of the Kinderhook and the Roeliffe Jansen's
+Creek, have I looked out upon this mountain range aglow in the sunset,
+and at even-tide heard my grandfather tell of his far-off journeys to
+Towanda, Pennsylvania, when he drove through the great Cloves of the
+Catskills, where twice he met "a bear" which retreated at the sound
+of his old flint-lock, and then when I went to sleep at night how I
+pulled the coverlet closer about my head, all on account of those two
+bears that had been dead for more than forty years.
+
+[Illustration: THE MAN IN THE MOUNTAIN.]
+
+       * * *
+
+  And, sister, now my children come
+    To find the water just as cool,
+  To play about our grandsire's home,
+    To see our pictures in the pool.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Alps of the Hudson, whose bold summits rise
+  Into the upper ether of the skies,
+  Cleaving with calm content
+  The cloudless crystal of the firmament.
+
+  _Joel Benton._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Catskills were called by the Indians On-ti-o-ras, or mountains of
+the sky, as they sometimes seem like clouds along the horizon. This
+range of mountains was supposed by the Indians to have been originally
+a monster who devoured all the children of the red men, until the
+great spirit touched him when he was going down to the salt lake to
+bathe, and here he remains. "Two little lakes upon the summit were
+regarded the eyes of the monster, and these are open all the summer;
+but in the winter they are covered with a thick crust or heavy film;
+but whether sleeping or waking tears always trickle down his cheeks.
+In these mountains, according to Indian belief, was kept the great
+treasury of storm and sunshine, presided over by an old squaw spirit
+who dwelt on the highest peak of the mountains. She kept day and
+night shut up in her wigwam, letting out only one at a time. She
+manufactured new moons every month, cutting up the old ones into
+stars," and, like the old Æolus of mythology, shut the winds up in the
+caverns of the hills:--
+
+Where Manitou once lived and reigned,
+  Great Spirit of a race gone by,
+And Ontiora lies enchained
+  With face uplifted to the sky.
+
+The Catskill Mountains are now something more than a realm of romance
+and poetry or a mountain range of beauty along our western horizon,
+for, from this time forth the old squaw spirit will be kept busy with
+her "Treasury of Tear Clouds," as the water supply of New York is to
+come from these mountain sources.
+
+=The Catskill Water Supply.=--The cost of this great undertaking is
+estimated at $162,000,000. Four creeks: The Esopus, Rondout, Schoharie
+and Catskill will constitute the main source of supply. The total area
+of the entire watershed is over nine hundred square miles, and the
+supply will exceed 800,000,000 gallons daily. The work projected will
+bring to the city 500,000,000 gallons per day.
+
+The Ashoken Reservoir, 12 miles long and two miles wide, will hold
+120,000,000,000 gallons. The Catskill Aqueduct supply from Ashoken
+Reservoir will deliver the water without pumping to Hill View
+Reservoir in Yonkers high enough for gravity distribution. It will
+take from ten to fifteen years to complete the work, which is begun
+none too early, as the population of Greater New York will be over
+5,000,000 in 1915, and its water consumption 1,000,000,000 gallons. In
+1930 the population will be 7,000,000 and will call for a consumption
+of 100,000,000,000 gallons daily. We are indeed "ancients of the earth
+and in the morning of our times." From the far limits of the gathering
+grounds some of the water will flow 130 miles to reach the city hall,
+and 20 miles further to the southern extremity of Staten Island.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The majestic Hudson is on my left,
+    The Catskills rise in my dream;
+  The cataracts leap from the mountain cleft
+    And the brooks in the sunlight gleam.
+
+  _Minot F. Savage._
+
+       * * *
+
+Between Old Cro' Nest and Cold Spring the water will be syphoned under
+the Hudson through a concrete tube six hundred feet below the surface
+of the river.
+
+The Croton Water Works, at a cost of about $14,000,000, completed in
+1842, were regarded the greatest undertaking since the Roman Aqueduct.
+Many improvements to meet increased demand have been made since that
+time. Fifty years from now it is quite possible that the Catskill
+System will seem like the Croton of to-day, as a small matter, and our
+next step will be "An Adirondack System," making the successive steps
+of our water supply the Croton, the Catskills and the Adirondacks.
+
+It is fortunate that our city destined to be the world's emporium, has
+everything at hand needed for comfort and safety.
+
+John Bigelow, the literary and political link of the century, born at
+Malden-on-the-Hudson, in 1817, was present at the inauguration of the
+work at Cold Spring, June, 1907. It was the writer's privilege to meet
+him often on the Hudson River steamers in the decade of 1870, and
+to receive from him many graphic descriptions of the early life and
+customs of the Hudson. What memories must have thronged upon him as he
+contrasted the life of three generations!
+
+=The Clover Reach.=--We are now in what is known as The Clover Reach
+of the Hudson which extends to the Backerack near Athens. One mile
+above Germantown Dock stood Nine Mile Tree, a landmark among old river
+pilots so named on account of its marking a point nine miles from
+Hudson. Above this the Roeliffe Jansen's Kill flows into the river,
+known by the Indians as Saupenak, rising in Hillsdale within a few
+feet of Greenriver Creek, immortal in Bryant's verse. The Greenriver
+flows east into the Housatonic, the Jansen south into Dutchess County,
+whence it takes a northerly course until it joins the Hudson. The
+Burden iron furnaces above the mouth of the stream form an ugly
+feature in the landscape. This is the southern boundary of the Herman
+Livingston estate, whose house is one mile and a half further up the
+river, near Livingston Dock, beneath Oak Hill. Greenville station is
+now seen on the east bank, directly opposite Catskill Landing, which
+the steamer is now approaching.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The fields and waters seem to us this Sabbath morning
+    from the summit of the Catskills, no more truly
+    property than the skies that shine upon them.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Catskill=, 111 miles from New York, was founded in 1678 by the
+purchase of several square miles from the Indians. The landing is
+immediately above the mouth of the Catskill or Kaaterskill Creek. It
+is said that the creek and mountains derive their name as follows: It
+is known that each tribe had a _totemic_ emblem, or rude banner; the
+Mahicans had the wolf as their emblem, and some say that the word
+Mahican means an enchanted wolf. (The Lenni Lenapes, or Delawares, had
+the turkey as their totem.) Catskill was the southern boundary of the
+Mahicans on the west bank, and here they set up their emblem. It is
+said from this fact the stream took the name of Kaaterskill. The
+large cat or wolf, similar in appearance, forms the mark of King
+Aepgin on his deed to Van Rensselaer. Perhaps, however, the mountains
+at one time abounded in these animals, and the name may be only a
+coincidence. The old village, with its main street, lies along the
+valley of the Catskill Creek, not quite a mile from the Catskill
+Landing, and preserves some of the features of the days when
+_Knickerbocker_ was accustomed to pay it an annual visit. The location
+seems to have been chosen as a place of security--out of sight to one
+voyaging up the river. The northern slope now reveals fine residences,
+all of which command extensive views. Just out of the village proper,
+on a beautiful outlook, stands the charming Prospect Park Hotel. The
+drives and pedestrian routes in the vicinity of Catskill are well
+condensed by Walton Van Loan, a resident of the village, whose guide
+to the Catskills is the best on this region and will be of great
+service to all who would like to understand thoroughly the mountain
+district.
+
+=The Northern Catskills.=--The northern and southern divisions have
+been indicated not so much as mountain divisions, but in order to
+better emphasize the two routes, which converge from Kingston
+and Catskill toward each other, drawn by two principal points of
+attraction, the Catskill Mountain House and the Hotel Kaaterskill.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Ah! how often when I have been abroad on the mountains
+    has my heart risen in grateful praise to God that
+    it was not my destiny to waste and pine among those
+    noisome congregations of the city.
+
+    _John James Audubon._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Catskill Mountain House= has been widely known for almost a
+century. The original proprietor had the choice of location in 1823,
+when the entire range was a vast mountain wilderness, and he made
+excellent selection for its site. It seems as if the rocky balcony
+was especially reared two thousand feet above the valley for a grand
+outlook and restful resort. "What can you see," exclaimed Natty
+Bumppo, one of Cooper's favorite characters. "Why, all the world;" and
+this is the feeling to-day of everyone looking down from this point
+upon the Hudson Valley.
+
+The Mountain House Park has a valley frontage of over three miles in
+extent, and consists of 2,780 acres of magnificent forest and farming
+lands, traversed in all directions by many miles of carriage roads
+and paths, leading to various noted places of interest. The Crest,
+Newman's Ledge, Bear's Den, Prospect Rock on North Mountain, and
+Eagle Rock and Palenville Overlook on South Mountain, from which
+the grandest views of the region are obtained, are contained in the
+property. It also includes within its boundaries North and South
+Lakes, both plentifully stocked with various kind of fish and well
+supplied with boats and canoes. The atmosphere is delightful,
+invigorating and pure; the great elevation and surrounding forest
+render it free from malaria. The temperature is fifteen to twenty
+degrees lower than at Catskill Village, New York City or Philadelphia.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Cooper's "Leatherstocking" is the one melodious synopsis
+    of man and nature.
+
+    _Thomas Carlyle._
+
+       * * *
+
+The =_Otis Elevating Railway_=, made possible by the enterprise of
+the late Commodore Van Santvoord, extends from Otis Junction on the
+_Catskill Mountain Railway_ to Otis Summit, a noble altitude of the
+Catskill Range. The incline railway, 7,000 feet in length, ascends
+1,600 feet and attains an elevation of 2,200 feet above the Hudson
+River. "In length, elevation, overcome and carrying capacity it
+exceeds any other incline railway in the world. It is operated by
+powerful stationary engines and huge steel wire cables, and the method
+employed is similar to that used by the Otis Elevator Company for
+elevators in buildings. Every safeguard has been provided, so that an
+accident of any kind is practically impossible. Should the machinery
+break, the cables snap or track spread, an ingenious automatic device
+would stop the cars at once. A passenger car and baggage car are
+attached to each end of double cables which pass around immense drums
+located at the top of the incline. While one train rises the other
+descends, passing each other midway. By this arrangement trains
+carrying from seventy-five to one hundred passengers can be run in
+each direction every fifteen minutes when necessary, the time required
+for a trip being only ten minutes. This is a vast improvement over the
+old way of making the ascent of the mountains by stage, as it reduces
+the time fully one and a half hours, besides adding greatly to the
+pleasure of the trip. The ride up the mountains on the incline railway
+is a novel and delightful experience, and is alone worth a visit to
+the Catskills. As the train ascends, the magnificent panorama of the
+valley of the Hudson, extending for miles and miles, is gradually
+unfolded; while the river itself, like a ribbon of silver glistening
+in the sun, and the Berkshire Hills in the distance seem to rise to
+the view of the passenger. At the summit of the incline passengers for
+the Laurel House, Haines Corners, Ontiora, Sunset, Twilight, Santa
+Cruz, Elka Park, and Tannersville, take the trains of the _Kaaterskill
+Railroad_, which connect with the _Otis Elevating Railway_."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The din of toil comes faintly swelling up
+  From green fields far below, and all around
+  The forest sea sends up its ceaseless roar
+  Like the ocean's everlasting chime.
+
+  _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+Two miles from the summit landing are the Kaaterskill Falls. The upper
+fall 175 feet, lower fall 85 feet. The amphitheatre behind the cascade
+is the scene of one of Bryant's finest poems:
+
+  "From greens and shades where the Kaaterskill leaps
+  From cliffs where the wood flowers cling;"
+
+and we recall the lines which express so beautifully the well-nigh
+fatal dream
+
+    "Of that dreaming one
+  By the base of that icy steep,
+    When over his stiffening limbs begun
+  The deadly slumber of frost to creep."
+
+About half-way up the old mountain carriage road, is the place said to
+be the dreamland of Rip Van Winkle--the greatest character of American
+mythology, more real than the heroes of Homer or the massive gods
+of Olympus. The railway, however, has rather dispensed with Rip Van
+Winkle's resting-place. The old stage drivers had so long pointed out
+the identical spot where he slept that they had come to believe in it,
+but his spirit still haunts the entire locality, and we can get along
+without his "open air bed chamber." It will not be necessary to quote
+from a recent guide-book that "no intelligent person probably believes
+that such a character ever really existed or had such an experience."
+The explanation is almost as humorous as the legend.
+
+=The Hotel Kaaterskill=, whose name and fame went over a continent
+even before it was fairly completed, is located on the summit of the
+Kaaterskill Mountain, three miles by carriage or one by path from the
+Catskill Mountain House. It is the largest mountain hotel at this
+time in the world, accommodating 1,200 guests, and the Catskills have
+reason to feel proud of this distinction. They have for many years had
+the best-known legend--the wonderful and immortal Rip Van Winkle. They
+have always enjoyed the finest valley views of any mountain outlook,
+and they have a right to the best hotels.
+
+       * * *
+
+    There is a fall in the hills, where the water of two
+    little ponds runs over the rocks into the valley. The
+    first pitch is nigh two hundred feet and the water looks
+    like flakes of driven snow before it touches the bottom.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+It may seem antiquated and old-fashioned in the midst of elevated
+railroads to speak of mountain driveways, but that to Palenville, as
+we last saw it, was a beautiful piece of engineering--as smooth as a
+floor and securely built. It looks as if it were intended to last for
+a century, the stone work is so thoroughly finished. The views from
+this road are superior to anything we have seen in the Catskills, and
+the great sweep of the mountain clove recalls a Sierra Nevada trip on
+the way to the Yosemite.
+
+The writer will never forget another Catskill drive fully twenty
+years ago. Starting one morning with a pair of mustang ponies from
+Phoenicia, we called at the Kaaterskill, the Catskill Mountain
+House, and the Laurel House, took supper at Catskill Village, and
+reached New York that evening at eleven o'clock. It is unnecessary to
+say that we were on business--our book was on the press--and we went
+as if one of the printers' best-known companions was on our trail.
+
+Irving's description of his first voyage up the river brings us more
+delicately and gracefully down from these mountains to the Hudson--the
+level highway to the sea. "Of all the scenery of the Hudson, the
+Kaatskill Mountains had the most witching effect on my boyish
+imagination. Never shall I forget the effect upon me of my first view
+of them, predominating over a wide extent of country--part wild, woody
+and rugged; part softened away into all the graces of cultivation. As
+we slowly floated along, I lay on the deck and watched them through a
+long summer's day, undergoing a thousand mutations under the magical
+effects of atmosphere; sometimes seeming to approach; at other times
+to recede; now almost melting into hazy distance, now burnished by the
+setting sun, until in the evening they printed themselves against the
+glowing sky in the deep purple of an Italian landscape."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Limned upon the fair horizon,
+    West from central Hudson's tide,
+  The fair form of Ontiora
+    Throughout ages shall abide.
+
+  _Jared Barhete._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Catskill to Hudson.=
+
+Leaving Catskill dock, the Prospect Park Hotel looks down upon us from
+a commanding point on the west bank, while north of this can be seen
+Cole's Grove, where Thomas Cole, the artist, lived, who painted the
+well-known series, the Voyage of Life. On the east side is Rodger's
+Island, where it is said the last battle was fought between the
+Mahicans and Mohawks; and it is narrated that "as the old king of the
+Mahicans was dying, after the conflict, he commanded his regalia to be
+taken off and his successor put into the kingship while his eyes were
+yet clear to behold him. Over forty years had he worn it, from the
+time he received it in London from Queen Anne. He asked him to kneel
+at his couch, and, putting his withered hand across his brow, placed
+the feathery crown upon his head, and gave him the silver-mounted
+tomahawk--symbols of power to rule and power to execute. Then, looking
+up to the heavens, he said, as if in despair for his race, 'The hills
+are our pillows, and the broad plains to the west our hunting-grounds;
+our brothers are called into the bright wigwam of the Everlasting, and
+our bones lie upon the fields of many battles; but the wisdom of the
+dead is given to the living.'"
+
+On the east bank of the Hudson, above this historic island, is the
+residence of Frederick E. Church, whose glowing canvas has linked the
+Niagara with the Hudson. It commands a wide view of the Berkshire
+Hills to the eastward, and westward to the Catskills. The hill above
+Rodgers' Island, on the east bank, is known as Mount Merino, one of
+the first places to which Merino sheep were brought in this country.
+
+=Hudson=, 115 miles from New York, was founded in the year 1784, by
+thirty persons from Providence, R. I., and incorporated as a city in
+1785. The city is situated on a sloping promontory, bounded by the
+North and South Bays. Its main streets, Warren, Union and Allen, run
+east and west a little more than a mile in length, crossed by Front
+Street, First, Second, Third, etc. Main Street reaches from Promenade
+Park to Prospect Hill. The park is on the bluff just above the
+steamboat landing; we believe this city is the only one on the Hudson
+that has a promenade ground overlooking the river. It commands a fine
+view of the Catskill Mountains, Mount Merino, and miles of the river
+scenery. The city has always enjoyed the reputation of hospitality.
+It is the western terminus of the Hudson and Chatham division of the
+_Boston & Albany Railroad_, and also of the _Kinderhook & Hudson
+Railway_.
+
+       * * *
+
+  White fleecy clouds move slowly by.
+    How cool their shadows fall to-day!
+  A moment on the hills they lie
+    And then like spirits glide away.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+From an old-time English history we read that Hudson grew more rapidly
+than any other town in America except Baltimore. Standing at the head
+of ship navigation it would naturally have become a great port had it
+not been for the railway and the steamboat which made New York the
+emporium not only of the Hudson, but also of the continent.
+
+Hudson had also a good sprinkling of Nantucket blood, and visitors
+from that quaint old town recognize in portico, stoop and window a
+familiar architecture.
+
+=Columbia Springs=, an old-time resort with pleasant grove and white
+sulphur water, is four miles northeast of Hudson. Its medicinal
+qualities are attested by scores of physicians, and by hundreds who
+have been benefited and cured. The drive is pleasant and the return
+can be made through--
+
+=Claverack=, three and a half miles east of Hudson, a restful
+old-fashioned village situated at the crossing of the Old Post Road
+and the Columbia turnpike and county seat of Columbia in Knickerbocker
+days. The court house on its well-shaded street was for many years the
+home of the late Peter Hoffman. The Dutch Reformed Church, built of
+bricks brought from Holland, wears on its brow wrinkles of antiquity,
+emphasized by the date 1767 on its walls. It is said that General
+Washington encamped here, but there is no historical data to confirm
+the tradition. Claverack Falls is well worth a visit, which can easily
+be made in an afternoon stroll. Copake Lake, to the southeast, can be
+reached by a drive of about twelve miles, a fine sheet of water ten
+miles in circumference, with a picturesque island connected to the
+main land by a causeway. Forty years ago a romantic ruin of a stone
+mansion still stood on this island, where the writer, when a boy, used
+to wander around the deserted rooms looking for ghosts, but the walls
+were torn down July 4, 1866, as the place was frequented every summer
+by a remnant of the old Stockbridge tribe. The neighbors thought the
+best way of getting rid of the "noble red men" was to burn up the
+hive. The mansion was built by a Miss Livingston, but she soon
+exchanged her island home for Florence and the classic associations
+of Italy. Bash-Bish, one mile from Copake Station on the _Harlem
+Railroad_, one of the most romantic glens in our country, has been
+visited and eulogized by Henry Ward Beecher, Bayard Taylor and many
+distinguished writers and travelers. Soon after leaving Copake Station
+a beautiful carriage road, but extremely narrow, strikes the left bank
+of this mountain stream, and for a long distance follows its rocky
+channel. On the right a thickly wooded hill rises abruptly more than a
+thousand feet--a perfect wall of foliage from base to summit. A mile
+brings one to the lower falls; the upper falls are about a quarter of
+a mile farther up the gorge. The height of the falls, with the rapids
+between, is about 300 feet above the little rustic bridge at the foot
+of the lower falls. The glen between is a place of wild beauty, with
+rocks and huge boulders "in random ruin piled."
+
+       * * *
+
+  I saw the green banks of the castle-crowned Rhine,
+  Where the grapes drink the moonlight and change into wine,
+  But my heart would still yearn for the sound of the waves
+  That sing as they flow by my forefather's graves.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Hillsdale Village= has a beautiful location and affords a good
+central point for visiting Mount Everett, with its wide prospect
+(altitude 2,624 feet), Copake Lake six miles to the west, Bash-Bish
+Falls six miles south, and Po-ka-no five miles to the northeast,
+sometimes known as White's Hill. The Po-ka-no, Columbia County's
+noblest outlook, 1,713 feet, commands the Hudson Valley for eighty
+miles; and the owner says that he saw the fireworks from there the
+night of the Newburgh centennial in 1883. From the summit can be seen
+"Monument Mountain" and the Green Mountains of Vermont. At its base
+glides the "Green River Creek," which flows into the Housatonic near
+Great Barrington. From this point the drive can be continued to North
+Egremont, South Egremont, Great Barrington and Monument Mountain.
+Before the days of railroads the Columbia turnpike was the great trade
+artery of the city of Hudson. It was interesting to hear William
+Cullen Bryant recount his experiences in driving from his home in
+Great Barrington over the well-known highway on his way to New York.
+The _Housatonic_ and _Harlem Railroads_ tapped its life and have left
+many a sleepy village along the route, once astir in staging days. The
+stone for Girard College was drawn from Massachusetts quarries over
+this route and shipped to Philadelphia from Hudson. The Lebanon
+Valley, in the northeastern part of the county, is considered one of
+the most beautiful in the State, and said by Sir Henry Vincent, the
+English orator, to resemble the far-famed valley of Llangollen, in
+Wales. The Wy-a-mon-ack Creek flows through the valley, joining its
+waters with the Kinderhook. Quechee Lake is near at hand, where Miss
+Warner was born, author of "Queechee" and the "Wide Wide World."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Welcome ye pleasant dales and hills,
+    Where dream-like passed my early days!
+  Ye cliffs and glens and laughing rills
+    That sing unconscious hymns of praise!
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lindenwald=, a solid and substantial residence, home of President
+Martin Van Buren, where he died in 1862, is two miles from the
+pleasant village of Kinderhook. Columbia County just missed the proud
+distinction of rearing two presidents, as Samuel J. Tilden was born in
+the town of Lebanon. Elisha Williams, John Van Buren and many others
+have given lustre to her legal annals.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Ever fonder, ever dearer
+    Seems our youth that hastened by,
+  And we love to live in memory
+    When our fond hopes fade and die.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Hudson to Albany.=
+
+=Athens.=--Directly opposite Hudson, and connected with it by ferry,
+is the classically named village of Athens. An old Mahican settlement
+known as Potick was located a little back from the river. We are now
+in the midst of the great
+
+="Ice Industry,"= which reaches from below Staatsburgh to Castleton
+and Albany, well described by John Burroughs in his article on the
+Hudson: "No man sows, yet many men reap a harvest from the Hudson. Not
+the least important is the ice harvest, which is eagerly looked for,
+and counted upon by hundreds, yes, thousands of laboring men along its
+course. Ice or no ice sometimes means bread or no bread to scores of
+families, and it means added or diminished comforts to many more. It
+is a crop that takes two or three weeks of rugged winter weather to
+grow, and, if the water is very roily or brackish, even longer. It is
+seldom worked till it presents seven or eight inches of clear water
+ice. Men go out from time to time and examine it, as the farmer goes
+out and examines his grain or grass, to see when it will do to cut. If
+there comes a deep fall of snow the ice is 'pricked' so as to let the
+water up through and form snow ice. A band of fifteen or twenty men,
+about a yard apart, each armed with a chisel-bar, and marching in
+line, puncture the ice at each step, with a single sharp thrust. To
+and fro they go, leaving a belt behind them that presently becomes
+saturated with water. But ice, to be of first quality, must grow from
+beneath, not from above. It is a crop quite as uncertain as any other.
+A good yield every two or three years, as they say of wheat out west,
+is about all that can be counted upon. When there is an abundant
+harvest, after the ice houses are filled, they stack great quantities
+of it, as the farmer stacks his surplus hay. Such a fruitful winter
+was that of '74-5, when the ice formed twenty inches thick. The stacks
+are given only a temporary covering of boards, and are the first ice
+removed in the season. The cutting and gathering of the ice enlivens
+these broad, white, desolate fields amazingly. My house happens to
+stand where I look down upon the busy scene, as from a hill-top upon
+a river meadow in haying time, only here figures stand out much
+more sharply than they do from a summer meadow. There is the broad,
+straight, blue-black canal emerging into view, and running nearly
+across the river; this is the highway that lays open the farm. On
+either side lie the fields, or ice meadows, each marked out by cedar
+or hemlock boughs. The farther one is cut first, and when cleared,
+shows a large, long, black parallelogram in the midst of the plain
+of snow. Then the next one is cut, leaving a strip or tongue of ice
+between the two for the horses to move and turn upon. Sometimes nearly
+two hundred men and boys, with numerous horses, are at work at once,
+marking, plowing, planing, scraping, sawing, hauling, chiseling; some
+floating down the pond on great square islands towed by a horse, or
+their fellow workmen; others distributed along the canal, bending to
+their ice-hooks; others upon the bridges separating the blocks with
+their chisel bars; others feeding the elevators; while knots and
+straggling lines of idlers here and there look on in cold discontent,
+unable to get a job. The best crop of ice is an early crop. Late in
+the season or after January, the ice is apt to get 'sun-struck,' when
+it becomes 'shaky,' like a piece of poor timber. The sun, when he
+sets about destroying the ice, does not simply melt it from the
+surface--that were a slow process; but he sends his shafts into it and
+separates it into spikes and needles--in short, makes kindling-wood of
+it, so as to consume it the quicker. One of the prettiest sights about
+the ice harvesting is the elevator in operation. When all works well,
+there is an unbroken procession of the great crystal blocks slowly
+ascending this incline. They go up in couples, arm in arm, as it were,
+like friends up a stairway, glowing and changing in the sun, and
+recalling the precious stones that adorned the walls of the celestial
+city. When they reach the platform where they leave the elevator, they
+seem to step off like things of life and volition; they are still in
+pairs and separate only as they enter upon the 'runs.' But here they
+have an ordeal to pass through, for they are subjected to a rapid
+inspection and the black sheep are separated from the flock; every
+square with a trace of sediment or earth-stain in it, whose texture
+is not perfect and unclouded crystal, is rejected and sent hurling
+down into the abyss; a man with a sharp eye in his head and a sharp
+ice-hook in his hand picks out the impure and fragmentary ones as they
+come along and sends them quickly overboard. Those that pass the
+examination glide into the building along the gentle incline, and are
+switched off here and there upon branch runs, and distributed to all
+parts of the immense interior."
+
+       * * *
+
+  But when in the forest bare and old
+    The blast of December calls,
+  He builds in the starlight clear and cold
+    A palace of ice where his torrent falls.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where the frost trees shoot with leaf and spray
+  And frost gems scatter a silver ray.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+  How fair the thronging pictures run,
+    What joy the vision fills--
+  The star-glow and the setting sun
+    Amid the northern hills.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+Passing west of the Hudson Flats we see North Bay, crossed by the _New
+York Central Railroad_. Kinderhook Creek meets the river about three
+miles north of Hudson, directly above which is Stockport Station for
+Columbiaville. Four Mile Light-house is now seen on the opposite bank.
+Nutten Hook, or Coxsackie Station, is four miles above Stockport.
+Opposite this point, and connected by a ferry, is the village of--
+
+=Coxsackie= (name derived from Kaak-aki, or place of wild geese, "aki"
+in Indian signifies place and it is singular to find the Indian word
+"Kaak" so near to the English "cackle"). Two miles north Stuyvesant
+Landing is seen on the east bank, the nearest station on the _New
+York Central & Hudson River Railroad_, by carriage, to Valatie and
+Kinderhook. The name Kinderhook is said to have had its origin from a
+point on the Hudson prolific in children; as the children were always
+out of doors to see the passing craft, it was known as Kinderhook, or
+"children's point." Passing Bronk's Island, due west of which empties
+Coxsackie Creek, we see Stuyvesant Light-house on our right, and
+approach New Baltimore, a pleasant village on the west bank, with
+sloop and barge industry. About a mile above the landing is the
+meeting point of four counties: Greene and Albany on the west,
+Columbia and Rensselaer on the east. Beeren Island, connected with
+Coeyman's Landing by small steamer, now a picnic resort, lies near the
+west bank, where it will be remembered the first white child was born
+on the Hudson. Here was the Castle of Rensselaertein, before which
+Antony Van Corlear read again and again the proclamation of Peter
+Stuyvesant, and from which he returned with a diplomatic reply,
+forming one of the most humorous chapters in Irving's "Knickerbocker."
+Threading our way through low-lying islands and river flats, and
+"slowing down" occasionally on meeting canal boats or other river
+craft, we pass Coeyman's on our left and Lower Schodack Island on
+our right, due east of which is the station of Schodack Landing. The
+writer of this handbook remembers distinctly a winter's evening walk
+from Schodack Landing, crossing the frozen Hudson and snow-covered
+island on an ill-defined trail. He was on his way to deliver his first
+lecture, February, 1868, and his subject was "The Legends and Poetry
+of the Hudson." Since that time he has written and re-written many
+guides to the river, so that the present handbook is not a thing of
+yesterday. The next morning, on his return to Schodack, he had for
+his companion a young man from twenty or thirty miles inland, who had
+never seen a train of cars except in the distance. On reaching the
+railway, one of the New York expresses swept by, and as he caught the
+motion of the bell cord he turned and said: "Do they drive it with
+that little string?" Lower Schodack Island, Mills Plaat (also an
+island) and Upper Schodack Island reach almost to--
+
+=Castleton=, a pleasant village on the eastern bank, with main street
+lying close to the river. The cliffs, a few miles to the north, were
+known to the Indians as Scoti-ack, or place of the ever-burning
+council-fire, which gave the name of Schodack to the township, where
+King Aepgin, on the 8th of April, 1680, sold to Van Rensselaer "all
+that tract of country on the west side of the Hudson, extending from
+Beeren Island up to Smack's Island, and in breadth two days' journey."
+
+       * * *
+
+    No spot in all the world where poetry and romance
+    are so closely blended with the heroic in history as
+    along the banks of our Hudson.
+
+    _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+THE MAHICAN TRIBE originally occupied all the east bank of the Hudson
+north of Roeliffe Jansen's Kill, near Germantown, to the head waters
+of the Hudson; and on the west bank, from Cohoes to Catskill. The town
+of Schodack was central, and a signal displayed from the hills near
+Castleton could be seen for thirty miles in every direction. After the
+Mahicans left the Hudson, they went to Westenhook, or Housatonic,
+to the hills south of Stockbridge; and then, on invitation of the
+Oneidas, removed to Oneida County, in 1785, where they lived until
+1821, when, with other Indians of New York, they purchased a tract of
+land near Fox River, Minnesota.
+
+Domestic clans or families of the Mahicans lingered around their
+ancient seats for some years after the close of the Revolution, but
+of them, one after another, it is written, "They disappeared in the
+night." In the language of Tamerund at the death of Uncas, "The
+pale-faces are masters of the earth, and the time of the red men has
+not yet come again. My day has been too long. In the morning I saw the
+sons of Unami happy and strong; and yet before the night has come,
+have I lived to see the last warrior of the race of the Mahicans."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Autumn had given uniformity of coloring to the woods.
+    It varied now between copper and gold, and shone like
+    an infinitely rich golden embroidery on the Indian veil
+    of mist which rested upon the heights along the Hudson.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to Ruttenber, the names and location of the Indian tribes
+were not ascertained with clearness by the early Dutch settlers, but
+through documents, treaties and information, subsequently obtained,
+it is now settled that the Mahicans held possession "under sub-tribal
+organizations" of the east bank of the river from an undefined point
+north of Albany to the sea, including Long Island; that their dominion
+extended east to the Connecticut, where they joined kindred tribes;
+that on the west bank of the Hudson they ran down as far as Catskill,
+and west to Schenectady; that they were met on the west by the
+territory of the Mohawks, and on the south by tribes of the Lenni
+Lenapes or Delawares, whose territory extended thence to the sea, and
+west to and beyond the Delaware River. The Mahicans had a castle at
+Catskill and at Cohoes Falls. The western side of the Hudson, above
+Cohoes, belonged to the Mohawks, a branch of the Iroquois. Therefore,
+as early as 1630, three great nations were represented on the Hudson--
+
+=The Mahicans, the Delawares and the Iroquois.= The early French
+missionaries refer to the "nine nations of Manhinyans, gathered
+between Manhattan and the environs of Quebec." These several nations
+have never been accurately designated, although certain general
+divisions appear under the titles of Mohegan, Wappinger, Sequins,
+etc. "The government of the Mahicans was a democracy. The office was
+hereditary by the lineage of the wife; that is, the selection of a
+successor on the death of the chief, was confined to the female branch
+of the family." According to Ruttenber, the precise relation between
+the Mahicans of the Hudson and the Mohegans under Uncas, the Pequot
+chief, is not known. In a foot-note to this statement, he says: "The
+identity of name between the Mahicans and Mohegans, induces the belief
+that all these tribes belonged to the same stock,--although they
+differed in dialect, in territory, and in their alliances." The two
+words, therefore, must not be confounded.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Round about the Indian village
+  Spread the meadows and the cornfields,
+  Stood the groves of singing pine trees,
+  And beyond them stood the forest,
+
+  _Henry W. Longfellow._
+
+       * * *
+
+It is also pleasant to remember that the Mahicans as a tribe were true
+and faithful to us during the war of the Revolution, and when the six
+nations met in council at Oswego, at the request of Guy Johnson and
+other officers of the British army, "to eat the flesh and drink the
+blood of a Bostonian," Hendrick, the Mahican, made the pledge for his
+tribe at Albany, almost in the eloquent words of Ruth to Naomi, "Thy
+people shall be our people, and whither thou goest we will be at your
+side."
+
+=The Mourdener's Kill=, with its sad story of a girl tied by Indians
+to a horse and dragged through the valley, flows into the Hudson above
+Castleton. Two miles above this near the steamer channel will be seen
+Staats Island on the east, with an old stone house, said to be next in
+antiquity to the old Van Rensselaer House, opposite Albany. It is also
+a fact that this property passed directly to the ancestors of the
+present family, the only property in this vicinity never owned by the
+lord of the manor. Opposite the old stone house, the point on the west
+bank is known as Parda Hook, where it is said a horse was once drowned
+in a horse-race on the ice, and hence the name Parda, for the old
+Hollanders along the Hudson seemed to have had a musical ear, and
+delighted in accumulating syllables. (The word pard is used in Spenser
+for spotted horse, and still survives in the word leopard.)
+
+The Castleton Bar or "overslaugh," as it was known by the river
+pilots, impeded for years navigation in low water. Commodore Van
+Santvoord and other prominent citizens brought the subject before the
+State legislature, and work was commenced in 1863. In 1868 the United
+States Government very properly (as their jurisdiction extends over
+tide-water), assumed the completing of the dykes, which now stretch
+for miles along the banks and islands of the upper Hudson. Here and
+there along our route between Coxsackie and Albany will be seen great
+dredges deepening and widening the river channel. The plan provides
+for a system of longitudinal dykes to confine the current sufficiently
+to allow the ebb and flow of the tidal-current to keep the channel
+clear. These dykes are to be gradually brought nearer together from
+New Baltimore toward Troy, so as to assist the entrance of the
+flood-current and increase its height.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where Hudson winds his silver way
+  And murmurs at the tardy stay,
+      Impatient at delay.
+
+  _William Crow._
+
+       * * *
+
+The engineers report that the greater part of the material carried in
+suspension in the Hudson river above Albany is believed to come from
+the Mohawk river, and its tributary the Schoharie river, while the
+sands and gravel that form the heavy and obstinate bars near Albany
+and chiefly between Albany and Troy, come from the upper Hudson.
+
+The discharge of the Hudson between Troy and Albany at its lowest
+stage may be taken at about 3,000 cubic feet per second. The river
+supply, therefore, during that stage is inadequate in the upper part
+of the river for navigation, independent of tidal flow.
+
+The greatest number of bars is between Albany and Troy, where the
+channel is narrow, and at least six obstructing bars, composed of fine
+and coarse gravel and coarse and fine sand, are in existence. In many
+places between Albany and Troy the navigable depth is reduced to 7½
+feet by the presence of these bars.
+
+From Albany to New Baltimore the depths are variable, the prevailing
+depth being 10 feet and over, with pools of greater depth separated by
+long cross-over bars, over which the greatest depth does not exceed
+9 or 10 feet. Passing many delightful homes on the west bank and the
+mouth of the Norman's Kill (Indian name Ta-wa-sentha, place of many
+dead) and the Convent of the Sacred Heart, we see Dow's Point on the
+east and above this the--
+
+=Van Rensselaer Place=, with its port holes on either side of the door
+facing the river, showing that it was built in troublesome times.
+It is the oldest of the Patroon manor houses, built in 1640 or
+thereabouts. It has been said that the adaptation of the old tune now
+known as "Yankee Doodle" was made near the well in the grounds of the
+Van Rensselaer Place by Dr. Richard Shuckberg, who was connected with
+the British army when the Colonial troops from New England marched
+into camp at Albany to join the British regulars on their way to fight
+the French. The tune was known in New England before the Revolution as
+"Lydia Fisher's Jig," a name derived from a famous lady who lived
+in the reign of Charles II, and which has been perpetuated in the
+following rhyme:
+
+  Lucy Locket lost her pocket,
+    Lydia Fisher found it;
+  Not a bit of money in it,
+    Only binding 'round it.
+
+The appearance of the troops called down the derision of the British
+officers, the hit of the doctor became known throughout the army, and
+the song was used as a method of showing contempt for the Colonials
+until after Lexington and Concord.
+
+       * * *
+
+                  When life is old
+  And many a scene forgot the heart will hold
+  Its memory of this.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Rensselaer=, on the east bank of the river, was incorporated in 1896
+by the union of Greenbush and East Albany. The old name of Greenbush,
+which still survives in East Greenbush, four miles distant, was given
+to it by the old Dutch settlers, and it was probably a "green-bushed"
+place in early days. Now pleasant residences and villas look out upon
+the river from the near bank and distant hillsides. Two railroad
+bridges and a carriage bridge cross the Hudson at this point. During
+the French war in 1775, Greenbush was a military rendezvous, and in
+1812 the United States Government established extensive barracks,
+whence troops were forwarded to Canada.
+
+=Albany=, 144 miles from New York. (_New York Central & Hudson River
+Railroad_, _Boston & Albany_, _West Shore_, _Delaware and Hudson_, the
+_Hudson River Day Line_ and _People's Line_.) Its site was called by
+the Indians Shaunaugh-ta-da (Schenectady), or the Pine Plains. It
+was next known by the early Dutch settlers as "Beverwyck," "William
+Stadt," and "New Orange." The seat of the State Government was
+transferred from New York to Albany in 1798. In 1714, when 100 years
+old, it had a population of about 3,000, one-sixth of whom were
+slaves. In 1786 it increased to about 10,000. In 1676, the city
+comprised within the limits of Pearl, Beaver and Steuben streets, was
+surrounded by wooden walls with six gates. They were 13 feet high,
+made of timber a foot square. It is said that a portion of these walls
+were remaining in 1812. The first railroad in the State and the second
+in the United States was opened from Albany to Schenectady in 1831.
+The pictures of these old coaches are very amusing, and the rate of
+speed was only a slight improvement on a well-organized stage line.
+From an old book in the State Library we condense the following
+description, presenting quite a contrast to the city of to-day:
+"Albany lay stretched along the banks of the Hudson, on one very wide
+and long street, parallel to the Hudson. The space between the street
+and the river bank was occupied by gardens. A small but steep hill
+rose above the centre of the town, on which stood a fort. The wide
+street leading to the fort (now State street) had a Market-Place,
+Guard-House, Town Hall, and an English and Dutch Church, in the
+centre."
+
+       * * *
+
+  I wandered afar from the land of my birth,
+  I saw the old rivers renowned upon earth,
+  But fancy still painted that wide-flowing stream
+  With the many-hued pencil of infancy's dream.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+Tourists and others will be amply repaid in visiting the new Capitol
+building, at the head of State Street. It is open from nine in the
+morning until six in the evening. It is said to be larger than the
+Capitol at Washington, and cost more than any other structure on the
+American continent. The staircases, the wide corridors, the Senate
+chamber, the Assembly chamber, and the Court of Appeals room, attest
+the wealth and greatness of the Empire State. The visitor up State
+Street will note the beautiful and commanding spire of "St. Paul." The
+Cathedral is also a grand structure. The population of Albany is now
+100,000, and its growth is due to three causes: First, the Capitol
+was removed from New York to Albany in 1798. Then followed two great
+enterprises, ridiculed at the time by every one as the _Fulton Folly
+and Clinton's Ditch_--in other words, steam navigation, 1807, and the
+Erie Canal, 1825. Its name was given in honor of the Duke of Albany,
+although it is still claimed by some of the oldest inhabitants that,
+in the golden age of those far-off times, when the good old burghers
+used to ask the welfare of their neighbors, the answer was "All
+bonnie," and hence the name of the hill-crowned city.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Canals, long winding, ope a watery flight,
+  And distant streams and seas and lakes unite;
+  From fair Albania toward the fading sun,
+  Back through the midland lengthening channels run.
+
+  _Joel Barlow._
+
+       * * *
+
+To condense from H. P. Phelps's careful handbook of "Albany and the
+Capitol:" in 1614 a stockaded trading-house was erected on an island
+below the city, well defended for trading with the Indians. In 1617
+another was built on the hill, near Norman's Kill. The West Indian
+Company erected a fort in 1623 near the present landing of the Day
+Line. In 1664 the province fell into the hands of the English and the
+name was changed to Albany. In 1686 it was incorporated into a city.
+It was the meeting place of the Constitutional Congress 1754,
+the proposed Constitution of which, however, was never ratified.
+Washington visited it in 1783. The Erie Canal was opened in 1825,
+a railroad to Schenectady in 1832, the _Hudson River_ in 1851, a
+consolidated road to Buffalo in 1853, and the _Susquehanna Railroad_
+to Binghamton in 1869. State Street at one time was said to be the
+widest city thoroughfare in the country, after Pennsylvania Avenue in
+Washington. The English and Dutch Churches and other public buildings,
+once in the midst of it, but long since removed, account for its
+extra width. The State Capitol has a commanding site. The old Capitol
+building was completed in 1808. The corner-stone of the present
+building was laid June 24, 1871, and it has been occupied since
+January 7, 1879. According to Phelps, "the size of the structure
+impresses the beholder at once. It is 300 feet north and south by 400
+feet east and west, and with the porticoes will cover three acres and
+seven square feet. The walls are 108 feet high from the water-table,
+and all this worked out of solid granite brought, most of it, from
+Hallowell, Me."
+
+The impression produced varies with various persons. One accomplished
+writer finds it "not unlike that made by the photographs of those
+gigantic structures in the northern and eastern parts of India, which
+are seen in full series on the walls of the South Kensington, and by
+their barbaric profusion of ornamentation and true magnificence of
+design give the stay-at-home Briton some faint inkling of the empire
+which has invested his queen with another and more high-sounding
+title. Yet when close at hand the building does not bear out this
+connection with Indian architecture of the grand style; it might be
+mere chance that at a distance there is a similarity; or it may be
+that the smallness of size in the decorations as compared to the
+structure itself explains fully why there is a tendency to confuse the
+eye by the number of projections, arches, pillars, shallow recesses,
+and what-not, which variegate the different facades. The confusion is
+not entirely displeasing; it gives a sense of unstinted riches, and
+represents the spirit that has reared the pile."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Nor let the dear love of its children grow cold
+  Till the channel is dry where its waters have rolled.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Governor's room, the golden corridor, the Senate staircase, the
+Senate chamber, the Assembly chamber, and the Court of Appeals room
+are interesting alike for their architectural stone work, decorations
+and general finish. The State Library, dating from 1818, contains
+about 150,000 volumes. The Clinton papers, including Andre's documents
+captured at Tarrytown, are the most interesting of many valuable
+manuscripts. Here also are a sword and pistol once belonging to
+General Washington. The Museum of Military Records and Relics contains
+over 800 battle flags of State regiments, with several ensigns
+captured from the enemy. Near the Capitol are the State Hall and City
+Hall, and on the right, descending State Street, the Geological Hall,
+well worthy an extended visit. The present St. Peter's Episcopal
+Church, third upon the site, is of Schenectady blue stone with brown
+trimmings. Its tower contains "a chime of eleven bells and another
+bell marked 1751, which is used only to ring in the new year."
+Washington Park, consisting of eighty acres and procured at a cost
+of one million dollars, reached by a pleasant drive or by electric
+railway, is a delightful resort. It is noted for its grand trees,
+artistic walks and floral culture. Several fine statues are also
+worthy of mention, notably that of Robert Burns (Charles Calverley,
+sculptor), erected by money left for this purpose by Mrs. McPherson,
+under the careful and tasteful supervision of one of Albany's
+best-known citizens, Mr. Peter Kinnear. A view from Washington Park
+takes in the Catskills and the Helderberg Mountains.
+
+       * * *
+
+    No wonder that his countrymen today, led by the
+    Congress of this great Republic, celebrate the transaction
+    and the scene where Washington refused to accept
+    a crown.
+
+    _William M. Evarts._
+
+       * * *
+
+And now, while waiting to "throw out the plank," which puts a period
+to our Hudson River division, we feel like congratulating ourselves
+that the various goblins which once infested the river have become
+civilized, that the winds and tides have been conquered, and that
+the nine-day voyage of Hendrick Hudson and the "Half Moon" has been
+reduced to the _nine-hour system_ of the Hudson River Day Line.
+
+Those who have traveled over Europe will certainly appreciate the
+quiet luxury of an American steamer; and this first introduction to
+American scenery will always charm the tourist from other lands. No
+single day's journey in any land or on any stream can present such
+variety, interest, and beauty, as the trip of one hundred and
+forty-four miles from New York to Albany. The Hudson is indeed a
+goodly volume, with its broad covers of green _lying open_ on either
+side; and it might in truth be called a _condensed_ history, for there
+is no other place in our country where poetry and romance are so
+strangely blended with the heroic and the historic,--no river where
+the waves of different civilizations have left so many waifs upon the
+banks. It is classic ground, from the "wilderness to the sea," and
+will always be the poets' corner of our country: the home of Irving,
+Willis, and Morris,--of Fulton, Morse, and Field,--of Cole, Audubon,
+and Church,--and of scores besides, whose names are household words.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Hudson's cable-tow of yore
+    Bound gallant sire and sturdy son
+  With hearty grasp from shore to shore
+    For Robert Burns and Washington.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+THE UPPER HUDSON.
+
+
+=Albany to Saratoga.=
+
+
+_Delaware and Hudson Railway._
+
+A pleasant tour awaits the traveler who continues his journey north
+from Albany, where the _Delaware and Hudson_ train for Saratoga is
+ready at the landing on the arrival of the steamer. A half hour's run
+along the west bank gives us a glimpse of Troy across the river with
+the classical named hills Mount Ida and Mount Olympus. Two streams,
+the Poestenkill and the Wynant's Kill, approach the river on the east
+bank through narrow ravines, and furnish excellent water power. In the
+year 1786 it was called Ferryhook. In 1787, Rensselaerwyck. In the
+fall of 1787 the settlers began to use the name of Vanderheyden, after
+the family who owned a great part of the ground where the city now
+stands. January 9, 1789 the freeholders of the town met and gave it
+the name of Troy. The "Hudson," the "Erie," and the "Champlain" Canals
+have contributed to its growth. The city, with many busy towns, which
+have sprung up around it--Cohoes, Lansingburg, Waterford, etc., is
+central to a population of at least 100,000 people. The Rensselaer
+Polytechnic Institute, the oldest engineering school in America, has a
+national reputation.
+
+=Cohoes=, where the Mohawk joins the Hudson, has one of the finest
+water powers in the country. Its name is of Indian origin and
+signifies "the island at the falls." This was the division line
+between the Mahicans and the Mohawks, and when the water is in full
+force it suggests in graceful curve and sweep a miniature Niagara. The
+view from the double-truss iron bridge (960 feet in length), looking
+up or down the Mohawk, is impressive.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Oh, be my falls as bright as thine!
+  May heaven's relenting rainbow shine
+  Upon the mist that circles me,
+  As soft as now it hangs o'er thee!
+
+  _Thomas Moore._
+
+       * * *
+
+Passing through Waterford, and Mechanicville which lies partly in the
+township of Stillwater, with its historic records of Bemis Heights and
+burial place of Ellsworth, the first martyr of the Civil war, we come
+to--
+
+=Round Lake=, nineteen miles north of Troy, and thirteen south
+of Saratoga, near a beautiful sheet of water, three miles in
+circumference, called by the Indians Ta-nen-da-ho-wa, which
+interpreted, signifies Round Lake. The camp-meeting and assembly
+grounds consist of 200 acres. The air is pure and invigorating and the
+grove and cottages inviting. The drives in the vicinity are delightful
+to Saratoga Lake, to the Hudson River, to the historic battlefields of
+Bemis Heights and Stillwater.
+
+=Ballston Spa=, thirty-one miles from Albany, is the county seat of
+Saratoga. Here are several well-known mineral springs, with chemical
+properties similar to the springs of Saratoga. Over ninety years ago
+Benjamin Douglas, father of Hon. Stephen A. Douglas, built a log
+house, near the "Old Spring," for the accommodation of invalids and
+travelers, and at one time it looked as if Saratoga would have a
+vigorous rival at her very doors; but its hotel glory has departed and
+the old "Sans Souci" of the days of Washington Irving is a thing of
+the past.
+
+       * * *
+
+  A gallant army formed their last array
+  Upon that field, in silence and deep gloom,
+        And at their conqueror's feet,
+        Laid their war-weapons down.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saratoga=, thirty-eight miles north of Albany, one hundred and
+eighty-two miles from New York, is the greatest watering place of the
+continent. Its development has been wonderful, and puts, as it were,
+in large italics, the prosperity of our country. The first white man
+to visit the place was Sir William Johnson, who, in 1767, was conveyed
+there by his Mohawk friends, in the hope that the waters might afford
+relief from the serious effects of a gunshot wound in the thigh,
+received eight years before in the battle of Lake George, at which
+time his army defeated the French legions under Baron Dieskau. It was
+not until the year 1773, six years after Sir William Johnson's initial
+visit, that the first clearing was made and the first cabin erected
+by Derick Scowten. Owing, however, to misunderstandings with his red
+neighbors, he shortly afterwards left. A year later, George Arnold,
+from Rhode Island, took possession of the vacated Scowten House, and
+conducted it with some degree of success for about two years. Arnold
+was in turn followed by Samuel Norton, who failed to make the venture
+successful, owing to the outbreak of the Revolution. Norton was
+succeeded in 1783 by his son, who sold out in 1787 to Gideon Morgan,
+who, in the same year, made the property over to Alexander Bryan.
+Bryan became the first permanent settler after the close of the war.
+The prosperity of the village began in 1789, with the advent of Gideon
+Putnam, but the wooden inns and hotels of 1830, which seemed palatial
+in those days, would get lost even in one of the parlors of the
+mammoth hotels which now line the main street of the village. Chief
+among these hotels, we mention the--
+
+="United States,"= a grand and princely building of noble frontage
+with a bright and spacious interior court, completed in June, 1874. It
+constitutes one continuous line of buildings, six stories high, over
+fifteen hundred feet in length, containing nine hundred and seventeen
+rooms for guests, and is the largest hotel in the world.
+
+=The American-Adelphi= near at hand, also fronting Broadway, always
+cheery and delightful under the management of its popular owner and
+proprietor, Mr. George A. Farnham, has one of the finest locations in
+Saratoga, combining comfort, good attention, a fine table, and every
+convenience of a first-class house. One thing is sure, those who go to
+the "American" return again and again.
+
+=The Speedway, the Race Track, and Driveways.=--Saratoga can justly
+feel proud of her material growth and progress in many directions
+during the last decade, and prominent among her varied attractions are
+the Speedway and Race Track. Mr. W. C. Whitney and many other prominent
+men have contributed liberally in this direction. _The Electric Line_
+to Saratoga Lake is also one of the features of the village, and
+furnishes a delightful forenoon or afternoon's outing.
+
+       * * *
+
+  And boyhood's love and fireside-listened tales
+  Are rushing on your memories, as ye breathe
+        That valley's storied name,--
+        Field of the Grounded Arms.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Springs.=--The most prominent springs in and about Saratoga are
+the Hathorn, the Patterson and the Congress. The popularity of the
+Hathorn is attested by the universal sale of its bottled waters
+throughout the United States. The Patterson has won a wide reputation
+which its excellence deserves.
+
+=Historic Saratoga.=--But in the midst of this throbbing, gay and
+delightful Saratoga, we must not forget that it was here the fathers
+of the Republic achieved their most decisive victory. The battle was
+fought in the town of Stillwater, at Bemis Heights, two and a half
+miles from the Hudson. The defeat of St. Leger and the triumph of
+Stark at Bennington filled the American army with hope. Burgoyne's
+army advanced September 19, 1777. The battle was sharply contested. At
+night the Americans retired into their camp, and the British held the
+field. From September 20th to October 7th the armies looked each other
+in the face, each side satisfied from the first day's struggle
+that their opponents were worthy foemen. The Americans had retaken
+Ticonderoga and Lake George. Burgoyne had no place to retreat, and
+the lines were slowly but surely closing in around him. October 7th
+Burgoyne commenced the battle, but in half an hour his line was
+broken. He attempted to rally his troops in person, but they could not
+stand before the impetuous charge of the Americans. He was compelled
+to order a full retreat, and fell back on the heights above
+Schuylerville. The Americans surrounded him, and he surrendered. It
+was a decisive victory, and cheered the friends of freedom, not only
+in America, but in the English House of Commons.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The leaves were red with crimson
+    And then brave Gates did cry,
+  'Tis diamond now cut diamond,
+    We'll beat them boys or die.
+
+  _Ballads of the Revolution._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Mount McGregor=, where General Grant died, associates the Saratoga of
+the Revolution with the story of our Civil War. Near the monument
+to the old heroes at Schuylerville, where Burgoyne surrendered,
+a monument to the Boys in Blue was dedicated in 1904. It was the
+privilege of the writer to be the poet of the occasion, and in his
+lines "The Flag They Bore," to bind the noble memorials of those who
+made and those who saved the Republic.
+
+  Two monuments in triumph stand
+    To catch with joy the morning sun,
+  One chorus joins them hand in hand--
+    Heroes of Grant and Washington.
+
+  And wider yet the chorus leaps!
+    Two famous hills the song unites,
+  As Mount MacGregor's anthem sweeps
+    Across the plains to Bemis Heights.
+
+In Nathaniel Bartlett Sylvester's book, entitled "Historical Sketches
+of Northern New York and the Adirondack Wilderness," we learn that the
+earliest date in which the word Saratoga appears in history is 1684,
+and was then the name of an old hunting ground on both sides of the
+Hudson. Its interpretations have been various. Some say "The Hillside
+Country of the Great River;" others, the place of swift waters, while
+Morgan, in his "League of the Iroquois," says the signification of
+Saratoga is lost.
+
+Whatever the origin of the name whether from the old High Rock spring
+or a "reach of the river," one thing is sure: Saratoga is the most
+attractive point in the country as a gathering place for conventions
+and large meetings, and, in response to the growing demand for
+adequate facilities, a splendid convention hall, with a seating
+capacity for five thousand people, has been erected by the town
+authorities. It is a striking architectural addition to Saratoga's
+attractions.
+
+In 1907 over fifty thousand "Knights" gathered here and were
+hospitably entertained.
+
+       * * *
+
+  And such were Saratoga's victors--such
+  The yeoman-brave, whose deeds and death have given
+              A glory to her skies,
+              A music to her name.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saratoga to the Adirondacks.=
+
+The _Adirondack Railway_ division of the _Delaware and Hudson_
+furnishes one of the pleasantest excursions to the north woods. The
+traveler passes along the romantic and picturesque valley of the upper
+Hudson--through King's, South Corinth, Jessup's Landing to Hadley (the
+railroad station for Luzerne, a charming village at the junction of
+the Hudson and the Sacandaga); then through Stony Creek, Thurman,
+thirty-six miles from Saratoga Springs, at the junction of the Schroon
+and the Hudson; the Glen, forty-four miles; Riverside, fifty miles
+(for Schroon Lake), pleasurable throughout, to North Creek, where
+"Concord coaches" and patent-covered spring buck-boards are in waiting
+for Blue Mountain Lake--distance about thirty miles, through a
+beautiful romantic country.
+
+The water route from this point is as follows: Through Blue Mountain
+Lake and Utowana to the outlet, a distance of seven miles, where a
+"Railway Carry," something less than a mile, brings the traveler to a
+fairy-like steamer on Marion River. The river trip is twelve miles to
+Forked Lake.
+
+Arriving at "Forked Lake Carry," one-half mile brings us to Forked
+Lake, where the traveler gets his first real mountain bill of fare.
+From this point we took a guide to Long Lake. There is a short cut
+from this point over to the Tupper Lakes, which we can commend in
+every particular, and the tourist can either return to Long Lake and
+continue his route to the Saranacs, or go to the Saranacs direct from
+Lake Tupper.
+
+From this point we visit Keene Flats, a charming and healthful spot,
+only five miles from the "Lower Ausable Pond." These ponds, the
+"Lower" and "Upper," are unrivaled in beauty and grandeur. They lie at
+the foot of Mount Marcy, Haystack, the Gothics, and Mount Bartlett.
+
+       * * *
+
+  'Twas in the mellow autumn time
+  When I, an idler from the town,
+  With gun and rod was lured to climb
+  Those peaks where fresh the Hudson takes
+  His tribute from an hundred lakes.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saratoga to Lake George.=
+
+The traveler will find trains and excursions to suit his convenience
+from Saratoga to our fairest lake. His route takes him through
+Gansevoort and Fort Edward to Glens Falls with the narrowing and
+bright-flowing Hudson for a companion. About one mile beyond Fort
+Edward Station, near the railway on the right, stood, until recently,
+the tree where Jane McCrea was murdered by Indians during the
+Revolution. From Glens Falls the tourist proceeds over the
+well-conducted Lake George division of the _Delaware and Hudson_, and
+soon finds himself in the midst of a historic and romantic region.
+About half way to the lake stands a monument to Col. Ephraim Williams,
+killed at the battle of Lake George in 1755, erected by the graduates
+of Williams College, which he founded. Bloody Pond, a little farther
+on, sleeps calm and blue in the sunlight in spite of its tragic name
+and associations, and soon Lake George, girt-round by mountains,
+greets our vision, stretching away in beauty to the north.
+
+Near the railway station on the ninth of September, 1903, a monument
+was unveiled commemorating the battle of Lake George one hundred and
+forty-eight years before. The monument embodies the heroic figures of
+Sir William Johnson and King Hendrick the Indian chief. It represents
+the Indian chief demonstrating to General Johnson the futility of
+dividing his forces. Governor Odell of New York, Governor Guild of
+Massachusetts, Governor Chamberlain of Connecticut, and Governor
+McCulloch of Vermont and others delivered appropriate addresses.
+
+=The Trossachs of America.=--Capt. Wm. R. Lord, author of
+"Reminiscences of a Sailor," in a recent article contributed to a
+Scottish paper, has happily called Lake George and its surroundings
+"The Trossachs of America." In writing of the autumn season he says:
+"Its similarity to the Trossachs of Scotland impresses one most
+vividly as seen at this season; the mountains are clothed in a garb,
+the prevailing color of which is purple, reminding me of a previous
+visit through the Scottish Highlands when the heather was in full
+bloom. I at that time felt it to be impossible that any other place on
+the face of the globe could equal the magnificently imposing grandeur
+of the 'Trossachs.' I must, however, freely admit that in its power of
+changing beauty this region of America fully equals, if it does
+not surpass it. Deeds of 'derring-do,' enacted in these mountain
+fastnesses in days gone by, still add to make the comparison more
+close. Our path at times seemed to be literally strewn with roses,
+for the different colored leaves that carpeted our way conveyed that
+thought. The depth and variegated beauty of coloring that marks this
+season of decaying foliage, would enrapture the heart of an artist.
+In my vocation I have had occasion to visit the four quarters of the
+globe, but never have I seen tints so strikingly beautiful."
+
+       * * *
+
+    The early fragments of our Colonial poetry and Revolutionary
+    ballads are chanted in the midst of such profound
+    silence and loneliness that they sound spectrally
+    to our ears.
+
+    _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lake George=, called by the French "Lac St. Sacrament," was
+discovered by Father Jacques, who passed through it in 1646, on his
+way to the Iroquois, by whom he was afterward tortured and burned. It
+is thirty-six miles long by three miles broad. Its elevation is
+two hundred and forty-three feet above the sea. The waters are of
+remarkable transparency; romantic islands dot its surface, and elegant
+villas line its shores. Fort William Henry and Ticonderoga, situated
+at either end of the lake, were the salients respectively of the two
+most powerful nations upon the globe. France and England sent great
+armies, which crossed each other's track upon the ocean, the one
+entering the St. Lawrence, the other the harbor of New York. Their
+respective colonies sent their thousands to swell the number of
+trained troops, while tribes of red men from the south and the north
+were marshalled by civilized genius to meet in hostile array upon
+these waters, around the walls of the forts, and at the base of the
+hills. In 1755, General Johnston reached Lake St. Sacrament, to which
+he gave the name of Lake George, "not only in honor of his Majesty,
+but to assert his undoubted dominion here."
+
+       * * *
+
+    The progress of that October month had been like
+    the stately march of an Orient army, with all the
+    splendor of blazing banners. It looked as though the glories of the
+    sunset had been distilled into it decked
+    with the glowing hues of crimson, scarlet and gold.
+
+    _John Henry Brandow._
+
+       * * *
+
+The village of Lake George is situated at the head of the lake.
+It contains two churches, a court house, and a number of pretty
+residences. Just behind the court house is the bay where Montcalm
+landed his cannon, and where his entrenchments began. It ran across
+the street to the rising ground beyond the Episcopal church.
+
+=Fort William Henry Hotel= is the largest and best appointed hotel on
+Lake George. It has a most beautiful and commanding location, and the
+view from its great piazza is one long to be remembered. The piazza is
+twenty-four feet in width and supported by a row of Corinthian columns
+thirty feet high. The outlook from it at all times is enchanting,
+commanding as it does the level reaches of the lake for miles, with
+picturesque islands and promontories.
+
+About twelve miles from the hotel is Fourteen-mile Island which, with
+a number of others, form "The Narrows." The lake here is 400 feet
+deep, much fishing is done, and in the right season hunting parties
+start out. Black Mountain, the monarch of the lake, rises over two
+thousand feet above its waters (being 2,661 feet above tide), and from
+the summit a magnificent view is obtained of Lake Champlain, the Green
+Mountains, the Adirondacks, and the distant course of the Hudson.
+
+A carriage drive to Schroon Lake and conveyance from Schroon Village
+to Adirondack resorts can be made from Lake George.
+
+Those who have only a day can make a delightful excursion from
+Saratoga to Caldwell by rail, then through the lake to Baldwin, and
+thence by rail to Saratoga, or _via_ Baldwin and up the lake to
+Caldwell, and so to Saratoga. But, to get the full beauty of this
+unrivaled lake, the trip should be made with less haste, for there is
+no more delightful place in the world to spend a week, a month, or an
+entire summer. Its immediate surroundings present much to interest
+the student of history and legend; and to lovers of the beautiful it
+acknowledges no rivals. The elevation and absolute purity of air make
+it a desirable place for the tourist. It is 346 feet above the level
+of the sea, 247 feet above Lake Champlain, and is now brought within
+six hours of New York City by the enterprise of the _Delaware & Hudson
+Co_. It is a great question, and we talk it over every time we see the
+genial Passenger Traffic Manager of this enterprising line, whether
+Lake George or Lake Luzerne, in Switzerland, is the more beautiful. We
+were just deciding last summer, on the steamer "Horicon," that Lake
+George was more beautiful, but not so wild, when, as if the spirit
+of the lake were roused, a great black squall suddenly came over the
+mountains, and, the "crystal lake" for a few minutes, was as wild as
+any one might desire. We all were glad to see her smile again as she
+did half an hour afterward in the bright sunlight.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Oh the mystical glory that crowns them
+    Reflected in river and lake,
+  Like a fire that burns through the firs and ferns
+    By the paths that the wild deer take.
+
+  _Eben E. Rexford._
+
+       * * *
+
+"At its widest point Lake George measures about four miles, but at
+other places it is less than one mile in width. It is dotted with
+islands; how many we do not know exactly--nobody does; but tradition,
+which passes among the people of the district for history and truth,
+says there is exactly one island for every day in the year, or 365 in
+all. Whatever their real number they all are beautiful, although some
+of them are barely large enough to support a flagstaff, and they all
+seem to fit into the scene so thoroughly that each one seems necessary
+to complete the charm. On either side are high hills, in some places
+rising gently from the shores, and in others beetling up from the
+surface of the water with a rugged cliff, or time-worn mass of rocks,
+which reminds one of the wild bits of rocky scenery that make up the
+savage beauty of the Isle of Skye.
+
+"Its clearness is something extraordinary. From a small boat, in many
+places, the bottom can be seen. Indeed, so mysteriously beautiful is
+the water that many visitors spend a day in a rowboat gazing into it
+at different points."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Each islet of green which the bright waters hold
+  Like emeralds fresh from their bosom rolled.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+Charles Dudley Warner says: "Bolton, among a host of attractive spots
+on the lake, holds, in my opinion, a rank among the two or three most
+interesting points. There is no point of Lake George where the views
+are so varied or more satisfactory, excepting the one from Sabbath-day
+Point. At Bolton the islets which dot the surface of the lake whose
+waters are blue as the sea in the tropics, carry the eye to the
+rosy-tinted range which includes Pilot, Buck and Erebus Mountains,
+and culminates in the stateliness of Black Mountain. Or, looking
+northwest, the superb masses of verdure on Green Island are seen
+mirrored on the burnished surface of the lake. Behind rises the mighty
+dividing wall called Tongue Mountain, which seems to separate the lake
+in twain, for Ganouskie, or Northwest Bay, five miles long, is
+in effect a lake by itself, with its own peculiar features." The
+Champlain Transportation Company runs a regular line of steamboats
+the entire length of the lake, making three round trips daily, except
+Sunday. The "Horicon" is a fine side-wheel steamer, 203 feet long and
+52 feet wide, and will accommodate, comfortably, 1,000 people.
+
+At Fort Ti the tourist can continue his northern route _via_ the
+_Delaware & Hudson_ to Hotel Champlain, Plattsburgh, Rouse's Point, or
+Montreal, or through Lake Champlain by steamer. The ruins of Fort Ti,
+like old Fort Putnam at West Point, are picturesque, and will well
+repay a visit.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Far off the dreaming waters lie,
+    White cascades leap in snowy foam,
+  Lake Champlain mirrors cloud and sky,
+    The Hudson seeks his ocean home.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lake George to the Adirondacks.=
+
+The reader who does not visit Lake George may feel that he is switched
+off on a side-track at Fort Edward; so, coming to his rescue, we
+return and resume our northern journey _via_ the main line, through
+Dunham's Basin, Smith's Basin, Fort Ann, and Comstock's Landing, to--
+
+=Whitehall=, at the head of Lake Champlain. From this point north the
+_Delaware & Hudson_ crosses all thresholds for the Adirondacks, and
+shortens the journey to the mountain districts. It passes through
+five mountain ranges, the most southerly, the Black Mountain range,
+terminating in Mt. Defiance, with scattering spurs coming down to
+the very shore of the lake. The second range is known as the
+Kayaderosseras, culminating in Bulwagga Mountain. The third range
+passes through the western part of Schroon, the northern part of
+Moriah and centre of Westport, ending in Split Rock Mountain. The
+fourth range, the Bouquet range, ends in high bluffs on Willsboro Bay.
+Here the famous Red-Hook Cut is located, and the longest tunnel on the
+line.
+
+The fifth range, known as the Adirondack Range, as it includes the
+most lofty of the Adirondack Mountains, viz.: McIntyre, Colden and
+Tahawas, ends in a rocky promontory known as Tremblau Point, at Port
+Kent.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Afar the misty mountains piled,
+    The Adirondacks soaring free,
+  The dark green ranges lone and wild,
+    The Catskills looking toward the sea.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+No wonder, with these mountain ranges to get through, that the subject
+was agitated year after year, and it was only when the Delaware and
+Hudson Company placed their powerful shoulder to the wheel, that the
+work began to go forward. For these mountains meant tunnels, and rock
+cuts, and bridges, and _cash_. Leaving Whitehall, we enter a tunnel
+near the old steamboat landing, cross a marsh, which must have
+suggested the beginning of the Pilgrim's Progress, for it seemed
+almost bottomless, and pass along the narrow end of the lake, still
+marked by light-houses, where steamers once struggled and panted "like
+fish out of water," fulfilling the Yankee's ambition of running a boat
+on a heavy dew. Then winding in and out along the shore, we proceed
+to--
+
+=Ticonderoga=, 23 miles from Whitehall. Here terminates the first
+range of the Adirondacks, to which we have already referred, viz.:
+Mount Defiance. Steamers connect with the train at this point on Lake
+Champlain, also with a railroad for Lake George. Near the station we
+get a view of old Port Ticonderoga, where Ethan Allen breakfasted
+early one morning, and said grace in a brief and emphatic manner. The
+lake now widens into a noble sheet of water; we cross the Lake George
+outlet, enter a deep rock-cut, which extends a distance of about 500
+feet, and reach Crown Point thirty-four miles north of Whitehall.
+Passing along the shore of Bulwagga Bay we come to--
+
+=Port Henry=, 40 miles from Whitehall. A few miles further the
+railroad leaves the lake at Mullen Brook, the first departure since
+we left Whitehall, and we are greeted with cultivated fields and a
+charming landscape.
+
+=Westport=, 51 miles from Whitehall, is the railroad station for--
+
+=Elizabethtown=, the county seat of Essex. It is about eight miles
+from the station, nestled among the mountains. A county consisting
+mostly of mountain scenery could have no happier location for a
+head-centre. Elizabethtown forms a most delightful gateway to the
+Adirondacks either by stage route or pedestrian tour.
+
+       * * *
+
+  A health to Ethan Allen and our commander Gates;
+  To Lincoln and to Washington whom every Tory hates;
+  Likewise unto our Congress, God grant it long to reign,
+  Our country's right and justice forever to maintain.
+
+  _Saratoga Revolutionary Ballad._
+
+       * * *
+
+A short distance north of Westport we enter the well-cultivated
+Bouquet Valley, and after a pleasant run come to Wellsboro Falls,
+where we enter seven miles of rock cutting. The road is about 90 feet
+above the lake, and the cuts in many places from 90 to 100 feet high.
+After leaving Red-Rock cut, we pass through a tunnel 600 feet long.
+Crossing Higby's Gorge and rounding Tremblau Mountain, we reach--
+
+=Port Kent=, the connecting point for the progressive village of
+Keeseville.
+
+=Ausable Chasm=, is only three miles from the station of Port Kent. It
+is many years since we visited the Chasm, but its pictures are still
+stamped upon our mind clearly and definitely--the ledge at Birmingham
+Falls, the Flume, the Devil's Pulpit, and the boat ride on the swift
+current. Indeed, the entire rock-rift, almost two miles in length,
+left an impression never to be effaced. The one thing especially
+peculiar, on account of the trend of the rock-layers was the illusion
+that we were floating up stream, and that the river compressed in
+these narrow limits, had "got tired" of finding its way out, until it
+thought that the easiest way was to run up hill and get out at the
+top.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Hear what the gray-haired woodmen tell
+  Of this wild stream and its rocky dell.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Bluff Point.=--On a commanding site 200 feet above the lake some
+three miles south of Plattsburgh, stands the superb "Hotel Champlain"
+commanding a view far-reaching and magnificent, from the Green
+Mountains on the east to the Adirondacks on the west. The hotel
+grounds comprise the same number of acres as the islands of Lake
+George, 365. The hotel is 400 feet long. We condense the following
+description from the "Delaware and Hudson Guide-book," which we can
+heartily endorse from many personal visits:
+
+"Resolute has been the struggle here with nature, where rocks, tangled
+forest and matted roots crowned the chosen spot; but upon the broad,
+smooth plateau finally created the Hotel Champlain has been placed,
+and all the surrounding forest, its solitudes still untamed, has been
+converted into a superb park, threaded with drives and bridle paths.
+At the foot of the gradual western slope of the ridge the handsome
+station of Bluff Point has been located beside the main line of the
+_Delaware & Hudson Railroad_, the chief highway of pleasure and
+commercial travel between New York, Saratoga, Lake George, the
+Adirondacks and Canada.
+
+"From the station where the coaches of the hotel await expected
+guests, a winding pike, the very perfection of a road, leads up the
+hill. From the carriage, as it rises to the crest, a wondrous outlook
+to the westward is opened to view. Nearly a thousand square miles of
+valley, lake and mountain are within range of the eye or included in
+the area encircled by visible peaks. As the porch of the hotel
+is reached, the view, enhanced by the fine foreground, is indeed
+beautiful, but still finer is the grandeur of the scene from the
+arches of the tall central dome of the house.
+
+"To the southward we see Whiteface, showing, late in spring and early
+in autumn, its coronet of almost perpetual snow; and in a grand circle
+still more southward we see in succession McIntyre, Marcy (both over
+5,000 feet high), Haystack, Dix, the Gothic peaks, Hurricane and the
+Giant. This noble sisterhood of mountains rises from the very heart of
+the wilderness, and yet the guests at the Hotel Champlain may reach
+any portion of their environment within a few hours."
+
+The fine equipment and frequent train service of the _Delaware &
+Hudson_ between New York and Bluff Point without change, by daylight
+or at night, and the direct connection of the same line with the
+Hudson River steamboats, places this resort high upon the list of
+available summering points in the dry and healthful north for families
+from the metropolis. Travel from the west, coming down the St.
+Lawrence River, or through Canada _via_ Montreal, will find Bluff
+Point easy to reach; while from the White Mountains and New England
+seashore resorts it is accessible by through trains _via_ St. Albans
+or Burlington.
+
+The western shore of Lake Champlain forms the margin of the most
+varied and altogether delightful wilderness to be found anywhere upon
+this continent east of the Rocky Mountains. The serried peaks to the
+westward are in plain view from its shores, their foot-hills ending
+in lofty and often abrupt ridges where they meet the lake. Three
+impetuous rivers, the Saranac, the Salmon and the Ausable, flow down
+from the cool, clear lakes, hidden away in the wildwood, and, breaking
+through this barrier at and in the vicinity of Plattsburgh, contribute
+not only to the lucid waters of Lake Champlain but greatly to the
+picturesque variety of the region.
+
+       * * *
+
+  There lie broad acres laced with rills
+    And gemmed with lake and pond
+  Behind a wave of wooded hills
+    And mountain peaks beyond.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Plattsburgh=, 168 miles from Albany, at the mouth of the Saranac, is
+a delightful threshold to the Adirondacks. The northern part of Lake
+Champlain offers special attractions to camping parties. The shores
+and islands abound in excellent sites. Lake Champlain is also replete
+with interest to the historian. The ruins of Fort St. Anne are still
+seen on the north end of the Isle La Mott, built by the French in
+1660. Valcour Strait, where one of the battles of '76 was fought;
+Valcour's Island, where lovers came from far and near, built air
+castles, wandered through these shady groves for a season or two, and
+then vanished from sight, bankrupt in everything but mutual affection;
+Cumberland Bay, with its victory, September, 1814, when the British
+were driven back to Canada; and many other points which can be visited
+by steamer or yacht.
+
+It is thirty years since I made my first trip to the Saranacs and I
+remember well the long journey of those early days, but now we can
+step aboard a well equipped train at Plattsburgh and in five or six
+hours stand by the bright waters of the Lower Saranac, which might
+to-day be called the centre and starting point for all resorts and
+camping grounds in the eastern lake district of the Adirondacks.
+Floating about the Saranac Islands of a summer evening, roaming among
+forest trees, strolling over to the little village one mile distant,
+and absorbing the rich exhilaration of a life of untrammeled freedom,
+with a perfect hotel, and blazing fire-places if the weather happens
+to be unpleasant, form a grand combination, alike for tourists or
+seekers after rest.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where rosy zephyr lingers
+    All the livelong day,
+  With health upon his pinions
+    And gladness on his way.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+SOURCE OF THE HUDSON.
+
+
+In our journey from Albany to Plattsburgh, we have indicated various
+routes to the Adirondacks: By way of Saratoga and North Creek to Blue
+Mountain Lake following the course of the Hudson which might therefor
+be called "The Hudson Gateway;" _via_ Lake George, Westport, and
+Elizabethtown, suited for carriage and pedestrian trips, and _via_
+Plattsburgh, which might be termed "The Northern Portal." In addition
+to these it has been my lot to make several trips up the valley of the
+Sacandaga to Lake Pleasant and Indian Lake, and _via_ Schroon Lake
+to Sanford and Lake Henderson--and four times to ascend the mountain
+trail of Tahawas to the tiny rills and fountains of the Hudson, but
+one trip abides in memory distinct and unrivalled, which may be of
+service to those who wish to visit in fact or fancy the head waters of
+the Hudson.
+
+=The Tahawas Club.=--We took the cars one bright August morning from
+Plattsburgh to Ausable Forks, a distance of twenty miles, hired a team
+to Beede's, some thirty miles distant from the "Forks;" took dinner at
+Keene, and pursued our route up the beautiful valley of the Ausable.
+
+From this point we visited Roaring-Brook Falls, some four hundred feet
+high, a very beautiful waterfall in the evening twilight. The next
+morning we started, bright and early, for the Ausable Ponds. Four
+miles brought us to the Lower Ausable. The historic guide, "old
+Phelps," rowed us across the lower lake, pointing out, from our slowly
+moving and heavily laden scow, "Indian Head" on the left, and the
+"Devil's Pulpit" on the right, lifted about eight hundred feet above
+the level of the lake. "Phelps" remarked with quaint humor, that
+he was frequently likened to his Satanic Majesty, as he often took
+clergymen "up thar." The rocky walls of this lake rise from one
+thousand to fifteen hundred feet high, in many places almost
+perpendicular. A large eagle soared above the cliffs, and circled in
+the air above us, which we took as a good omen of our journey.
+
+       * * *
+
+                    The rills
+  That feed thee rise among the storied rocks
+  Where Freedom built her battle-tower.
+
+  _William Wallace._
+
+       * * *
+
+After reaching the southern portion of the lake, a trail of a mile and
+a quarter leads to the Upper Ausable--the gem of the Adirondacks. This
+lake, over two thousand feet above the tide, is surrounded on all
+sides by lofty mountains. Our camp was on the eastern shore, and I can
+never forget the sunset view, as rosy tints lit up old Skylight, the
+Haystack and the Gothics; nor can I ever forget the evening songs from
+a camp-fire across the lake, or the "bear story" told by Phelps, a
+tale never really finished, but made classic and immortal by Stoddard,
+in his spicy and reliable handbook to the North Woods.
+
+The next morning we rowed across the lake and took the Bartlett trail,
+ascending Haystack, some five thousand feet high, just to get an
+appetite for dinner; our guide encouraging us on the way by saying
+that there never had been more than twenty people before "on that air
+peak." In fact, there was no trail, and in some places it was so steep
+that we were compelled to go up on all fours; or as Scott puts it more
+elegantly in the "Lady of the Lake":
+
+              "The foot was fain
+  Assistance from the hand to gain."
+
+The view from the summit well repaid the toil. We saw Slide Mountain,
+near by to the north, and Whiteface far beyond, perhaps twenty-five
+miles distant; northeast, the Gothics; east, Saw-teeth, Mt. Colvin,
+Mt. Dix, and the lakes of the Ausable. To the southeast, Skylight;
+northwest, Tahawas, still foolishly styled on some of our maps,
+Mt. Marcy. The descent of Haystack was as easy as Virgil's famous
+"Descensus Averni." We went down in just twenty minutes. The one
+that reached the bottom first simply possessed better adaptation for
+rolling.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Eagles still claim the loftiest heights: from there
+    They scan with solemn eyes the scenes below--
+  The river and the hills which shall endure
+    While man's frail generations come and go.
+
+  _E. A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+One mile from the foot of Haystack brought us to Panther Gorge Camp,
+appropriately named, one of the wildest spots in the Adirondacks. We
+remained there that night and slept soundly, although a dozen of us
+were packed so closely in one small camp that no individual could turn
+over without disarranging the whole mass. Caliban and Trinculo were
+not more neighborly, and Sebastian, even sober, would have been fully
+justified in taking us for "a rare monster" with twenty legs.
+
+The next morning we ascended Tahawas, but saw nothing save whirling
+clouds on its summit. Twice since then we have had better fortune, and
+looked down from this mountain peak, five thousand three hundred and
+forty-four feet above the sea, upon the loveliest mountain landscape
+that the sun ever shone upon. We went down the western slope of
+Tahawas, through a driving rain, to Camp Colden, where, with clothes
+hung up to dry, we looked like a party of New Zealanders preparing
+dinner, hungry enough, too, to make an orthodox meal of each other.
+The next day the weather cleared up, and we made a trip of two miles
+over a rough mountain trail to Lake Avalanche, whose rocky and
+precipitous walls form a fit christening bowl, or baptistery-font for
+the infant Hudson.
+
+Returning to Camp Colden and resuming our western march, two miles
+brought us to Calamity Pond, where a lone monument marks the spot of
+David Henderson's death, by the accidental discharge of a pistol. Five
+miles from this point brought us to the "Deserted Village," or the
+Upper Adirondack Iron Works, with houses and furnaces abandoned,
+and rapidly falling into decay. Here we found a cheery fireside and
+cordial welcome.
+
+       * * *
+
+  All the sad story of forest and flower,
+  All the red glory of sunsetting hour,
+  Comes till I seem to lie lapped in bright dreams
+  Lulled by the lullaby murmur of streams.
+
+  _James Kennedy._
+
+       * * *
+
+Had I time to picture this level, grass-grown street, with ten or
+fifteen square box-looking houses, windowless, empty and desolate; a
+school-house with its long vacation of twenty-three years; a bank with
+heavy shutters and ponderous locks, whose floor, Time, the universal
+burglar, had undermined; two large furnaces with great rusty wheels,
+whose occupation was gone forever; a thousand tons of charcoal,
+untouched for a quarter of a century; thousands of bricks waiting for a
+builder; a real haunted house, whose flapping clap-boards contain
+more spirits than the Black Forests of Germany--a village so utterly
+desolate, that it has not even the vestige of a graveyard--if I could
+picture to you this village, as it appeared to me that weird midnight,
+lying so quiet,
+
+  "under the light of the solemn moon,"
+
+you would realize as I did then, that truth is indeed stranger than
+fiction, and that Goldsmith in _his_ "Deserted Village" had not
+overdrawn the description of desolate Auburn.
+
+By special request, we were permitted to sleep that night in the
+Haunted House and no doubt listened to the first crackling that the
+old fire-place had known for years. Many bedsteads in the old building
+were still standing, so we only needed bedding from the hotel to
+make us comfortable. As we went to sleep we expressed a wish to be
+interviewed in the still hours of the night by any ghosts or spirits
+who might happen to like our company; but the spirits must have been
+absent on a visit that evening, for we slept undisturbed until the old
+bell, suspended in a tree, rang out the cheery notes of "trout and
+pickerel." We understand that the Haunted House from that night
+lost its old-time reputation, and is now frequently brought into
+requisition as an "Annex," whenever the hotel or "Club House," as it
+is now called, happens to be full. The "Deserted Village" is rich in
+natural beauty. Lakes Henderson and Sanford are near at hand, and the
+lovely Preston Ponds are only five miles distant.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Stately and awful was the form of Tahawas, the old
+    scarred warrior king of the mountains, and yet it owns
+    pines that sing like the sea, brooks that warble like the
+    robin, and flowers that scent the air like the orange-blossoms
+    of Italy.
+
+    _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+Resuming our march through Indian Pass, under old Wall-Face Mountain,
+we reached a comfortable farmhouse at sunset, near North Elba, known
+by the name of Scott's. The next morning we visited John Brown's house
+and grave by the old rock, and read the beautiful inscription, "Bury
+me by the Old Rock, where I used to sit and read the word of God."
+
+From this point we went to Lake Placid, engaged a lad to row us across
+the lake--some of our party had gone on before--and strapped our
+knapsacks for another mountain climb. We were fortunate in having a
+lovely day, and from its sparkling glacier-worn summit we could look
+back on all the mountains of our pleasant journey, and far away across
+Lake Champlain to Mount Mansfield and Camel's Hump of the Green
+Mountains, and farther still to the faint outlines of Mount
+Washington. We reached Wilmington that night, drove the next morning
+to Ausable Forks, and took the cars for Plattsburgh. The ten days'
+trip was finished, and at this late hour I heartily thank the Tahawas
+Club of Plattsburgh for taking me under their generous care and
+guidance. We took Phelps, our guide, back with us to Plattsburgh. When
+he reached the "Forks," and saw the cars for the first time in his
+life, he stooped down and, examining the track, said, "What tarnal
+little wheels." I suppose he concluded that if the ordinary cart had
+two large wheels, that real car wheels would resemble the Rings of
+Saturn. He saw much to amuse and interest him during his short stay
+in Plattsburgh, but after all he thought it was rather lonesome, and
+gladly returned to his lakes and mountains, where he slept in peace,
+with the occasional intrusion of a "Bar" or a "Painter." He knew the
+region about Tahawas as an engineer knows his engine, or as a Greek
+professor knows the pages of his lexicon. He had lived so closely with
+nature that he seemed to understand her gentlest whispers, and he had
+more genuine poetry in his soul than many a man who chains weak ideas
+in tangled metre.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Lake Avalanche with rocky wall
+    And Henderson's dark-wooded shore,
+  Your echoes linger still and call
+    Unto my soul forevermore.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN HEAD.]
+
+Since that first delightful trip I have visited the Adirondacks many
+times, and I hope this summer to repeat the excursion. To me Tahawas
+is the grand centre. It remains unchanged. In fact, the route I have
+here traced is the same to-day as then. Even the rude camps are
+located in the same places, with the exception that the trail has been
+shortened over Tahawas, and a camp established on Skylight. With good
+guides the route is not difficult for ladies in good health,--say
+sufficient health to endure half a day's shopping. Persons
+contemplating the mountain trip need blankets, a knapsack, and a
+rubber cloth or overcoat; food can be procured at the hotels or farm
+houses.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The old English ballads have all the sparkle, the
+    energy and the rhythm of our mountain streams, but
+    Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare and Bunyan are the
+    crystal lakes from which flow the river, ay, the Hudson
+    of our language.
+
+    _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+In this hasty sketch I have had little space to indulge in
+picture-painting. I passed Bridal-Veil Fall without a reference. I
+was tempted to loiter on the banks of the Feld-spar and the bright
+Opalescent, but I passed by without even picking a pebble from the
+clear basins of its sparkling cascades. I passed the "tear of the
+clouds," four thousand feet above the tide--that fountain of the
+Hudson nearest to the sky, without being beguiled into poetry. I have
+not ventured upon a description of a sunrise view from the summit of
+Tahawas, of the magic effect of light above clouds that clothe the
+surrounding peaks in garments wrought, it seems, of softest wool,
+until mist and vapor dissolve in roseate colors, and the landscape
+lies before us like an open book, which many glad eyes have looked
+upon again and again. I have left it for your guides to tell you, by
+roaring camp-fires, long stories of adventure in trapping and hunting,
+of wondrous fishes that grow longer and heavier every season, although
+captured and broiled many and many a year ago--trout and pickerel
+literally pickled in fiction, served and re-served in the piquant
+sauce of mountain vocabulary. In brief, I have kept my imagination and
+enthusiasm under strict control. But, after all, the Adirondacks are
+a wonderland, and we, who dwell in the Hudson and Mohawk valleys, are
+happy in having this great park of Nature's making at our very doors.
+
+It has charms alike for the hunter, the angler, the artist, the
+writer, and the scientist. Let us rejoice, therefore, that the State
+of New York is waking at last to the fact, that these northern
+mountains were intended by nature to be something more than lumber
+ranches, to be despoiled by the axe, and finally revert to the State
+for "taxes" in the shape of bare and desolate wastes. Nor can the most
+practical legislator charge those, who wish to preserve the Adirondack
+woods, with idle sentiment; as it is now an established scientific
+fact that the rainfall of a country is largely dependent upon its
+forest land. If the water supply of the north were cut off, to any
+perceptible degree, the Hudson, during the months of July and August,
+would be a mere sluice of salt water from New York to Albany; and the
+northern canals, dependent on this supply, would become empty and
+useless ditches. Our age is intensely practical, but we are fortunate
+in this, that so far as the preservation of the Adirondacks is
+concerned, utility, common sense, and the appreciation of the
+beautiful are inseparably blended.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Wild umbrage far around me clings
+    To breezy knoll and hushed ravine,
+  And o'er each rocky headland flings
+    Its mantle of refreshing green.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman_.
+
+       * * *
+
+To those persons who do not desire long mountain jaunts, who simply
+need some quiet place for rest and recuperation, I would suggest this:
+Select some place near the base of these clustered mountains, like the
+tasty Adirondack Lodge at Clear Pond, only seven miles from the summit
+of Tahawas, or Beede's pleasant hotel, high and dry above Keene Flats,
+near to the Ausable Ponds, or some pleasant hotel or quiet farm-house
+in the more open country near Lake Placid and the Saranacs. But
+I prophesy that the spirit of adventure will come with increased
+strength, and men and women alike will be found wandering off on
+long excursions, sitting about great camp-fires, ay, listening like
+children to tales which have not gathered truth with age. If you have
+control of your time you will find no pleasanter months than July,
+August and September, and when you return to your firesides with
+new vigor to fight the battle of life, you will feel, I think, like
+thanking the writer for having advised you to go thither.
+
+       * * *
+
+    To shut up a glen or a waterfall for one man's exclusive
+    enjoying; to fence out a genial eye from any
+    corner of the earth which nature has lovingly touched;
+    to lock up trees and glades shady paths and haunts
+    along rivulets, would be an embezzlement by one man
+    of God's gifts to all.
+
+    _N. P. Willis._
+
+       * * *
+
+I have written in this article the Indian name, Tahawas, in the place
+of Mt. Marcy, and for this reason: There is no justice in robbing the
+Indian of his keen, poetic appreciation, by changing a name, which
+has in itself a definite meaning, for one that means nothing in its
+association with this mountain. We have stolen enough from this
+unfortunate race, to leave, at least, those names in our woodland
+vocabulary that chance to have a musical sound to our imported Saxon
+ears. The name Tahawas is not only beautiful in itself, but also
+poetic in its interpretation--signifying "I cleave the clouds."
+Coleridge, in his glorious hymn, "Before sunrise in the vale of
+Chamouni," addresses Mount Blanc:
+
+          "Around thee and above
+  Deep is the air and dark, substantial, black--
+  An ebon mass. Methinks thou piercest it.
+  _As with a wedge!_"
+
+The name or meaning of Tahawas was never made known to the great
+English poet, who died sixty years ago. Is it not remarkable that
+the untutored Indian, and the keenist poetic mind which England has
+produced for a century, should have the same idea in the uplifted
+mountains? There is also another reason why we, as a State, should
+cherish the name Tahawas. While the Sierra Nevadas and the Alps
+slumbered beneath the waves of the ocean, before the Himalayas or the
+Andes had asserted their supremacy, scientists say, that the high
+peaks of the Adirondacks stood alone above the waves, "the cradle of
+the world's life;" and, as the clouds then encircled the vast waste
+of water, Tahawas then rose--"Cleaver" alike of the waters and the
+clouds.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Tahawas, rising stern and grand,
+    "Cloud-sunderer" lift thy forehead high,
+  Guard well thy sun-kissed mountain land
+    Whose lakes seem borrowed from the sky.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+GEOLOGY OF THE HUDSON.
+
+
+In addition to various geological references scattered through these
+pages the following facts from an American Geological Railway Guide,
+by James Macfarlane, Ph.D., will be of interest.
+
+"The State of New York is to the geologist what the Holy Land is
+to the Christian, and the works of her Palæontologist are the Old
+Testament Scriptures of the science. It is a Laurentian, Cambrian,
+Silurian and Devonian State, containing all the groups and all the
+formations of these long ages, beautifully developed in belts
+running nearly across the State in an east and west direction, lying
+undisturbed as originally laid down.
+
+"The rock of New York Island is gneiss, except a portion of the north
+end, which is limestone. The south portion is covered with deep
+alluvial deposits, which in some places are more than 100 feet in
+depth. The natural outcroppings of the gneiss appeared on the surface
+about 16th Street, on the east side of the city, and run diagonally
+across to 31st Street on 10th Avenue. North of this, much of the
+surface was naked rock. It contains a large proportion of mica, a
+small proportion of quartz and still less feldspar, but generally an
+abundance of iron pyrites in very minute crystals, which, on
+exposure, are decomposed. In consequence of these ingredients it soon
+disintegrates on exposure, rendering it unfit for the purposes
+of building. The erection of a great city, for which this island
+furnishes a noble site, has very greatly changed its natural
+condition. The geological age of the New York gneiss is undoubtedly
+very old, not the Laurentian or oldest, nor the Huronian, but it
+belongs to the third or White Mountain series, named by Dr. Hunt the
+Montalban. It is the same range which is the basis rock of nearly all
+the great cities of the Atlantic coast. It crosses New Jersey where it
+is turned to clay, until it appears under Trenton, and it extends to
+Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington and Richmond, Va., and probably
+Boston, Massachusetts, is founded on this same formation.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Oh, river! darkling river! what a voice
+  Is that thou utterest while all else is still!
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant_.
+
+       * * *
+
+"On the opposite side of the river may here be seen for many miles the
+Palisades, a long, rough mountain ridge close to the water's edge. Its
+upper half is a perpendicular precipice of bare rock of a columnar
+structure from 100 to 200 feet in height, the whole height of the
+mountain being generally from 400 to 600 feet, and the highest point
+in the range opposite Sing Sing 800 feet above the Hudson, and known
+as the High Torn. The width of the mountain is from a half mile to a
+mile and a half, the western slope being quite gentle. In length it
+extends from Bergen Point below Jersey City to Haverstraw, and then
+westward in all 48 miles, the middle portion being merely a low ridge.
+The lower half of the ridge on the river side is a sloping mound of
+detritus, of loose stones which has accumulated at the base of the
+cliff, from its weathered and wasted surface.
+
+"Viewed from the railroad or from a steamboat on the river, this lofty
+mural precipice with its huge weathered masses of upright columns of
+bare rock, presenting a long, straight unbroken ridge overlooking the
+beautiful Hudson River, is certainly extremely picturesque. Thousands
+of travelers gaze at it daily without knowing what it is. This entire
+ridge consists of no other rock than trap traversing the Triassic
+formation in a huge vertical dike. The red sandstone formation of New
+Jersey is intersected by numerous dikes of this kind, but this is much
+the finest. The materials of this mountain have undoubtedly burst
+through a great rent or fissure in the strata, overflowing while in a
+melted or plastic condition the red sand-stone, not with the violence
+of a volcano, for the adjoining strata are but little disturbed in
+position, although often greatly altered by the heat, but forced up
+very slowly and gradually, and probably under pressure. Subsequent
+denudation has laid bare the part of the mountain now exposed along
+the river. The rock is columnar basalt, sometimes called greenstone,
+and is solid, not stratified like water-formed rocks, but cracked in
+cooling and of a crystalline structure. Here is a remarkable but not
+uncommon instance of a great geological blank. On the east side of
+this river the formations belong to the first or oldest series of
+Primary or Crystalline rocks, while on the west side they are
+all Triassic, the intermediate Cambrian, Silurian, Devonian and
+Carboniferous formations being wanting. This state of things continues
+all along the Atlantic coast to Georgia, the Cretaceous or Jurassic
+taking the place of the Triassic farther south.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Like thine, O, be my course--nor turned aside,
+  While listening to the soundings of a land,
+  That like the ocean call invites me to its strand.
+
+  _Mrs. Seba Smith._
+
+       * * *
+
+"Montrose to Cornwall. This celebrated passage of the Hudson through
+the Highlands, is a gorge nearly 20 miles long from 3 miles south of
+Peekskill to Fishkill, and is worn out of the Laurentian rocks far
+below mean tide water. The hills on its sides rise in some instances
+as much as 1,800 feet, and in many places the walls are very
+precipitous. The rock is gneiss, of a kind that is not easily
+disintegrated or eroded, nor is there any evidence of any convulsive
+movement. It is clearly a case of erosion, but not by the present
+river, which has no fall, for tide water extends 100 miles up the
+river beyond the Highlands. This therefore was probably a work mainly
+performed in some past period when the continent was at a higher
+level. Most likely it is a valley of great antiquity.
+
+"Opposite Fishkill is Newburgh, which is in the great valley of Lower
+Silurian or Cambrian limestone and slate. North of that, on the west
+side of the river, the formations occur in their usual order, their
+outcrops running northeast and southwest. On the _N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R._,
+on the east side, the same valley crosses, and the slates from
+Fishkill to Rhinebeck are about the same place in the series;
+but being destitute of fossils and very much faulted, tilted and
+disturbed, their precise geology is uncertain. See the exposures in
+the cuts at Poughkeepsie. The high ground to the east is commonly
+called the Quebec group.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Amid thy forest solitudes one climbs
+    O'er crags, that proudly tower above the deep,
+  Along the verge of the cliff, and he can hear
+  The low dash of the wave with startled ear.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+"A series of great dislocations with upthrows on the east side
+traverse eastern North America from Canada to Alabama. One of these
+great faults has been traced from near the mouth of the St. Lawrence
+River, keeping mostly under the water up to Quebec just north of the
+fortress, thence by a gently curving line to Lake Champlain or through
+western Vermont across Washington County, N. Y., to near Albany. It
+crosses the river near Rhinebeck 15 miles north of Poughkeepsie and
+continues on southward into New Jersey and runs into another series of
+faults probably of a later date, which extends as far as Alabama. It
+brings up the rocks of the so called Quebec group on the east side of
+the fracture to the level of the Hudson River and Trenton.
+
+"Catskill Mountains. For many miles on this railroad are beautiful
+views of the Catskill Mountains, 3,800 feet high, several miles
+distant on the opposite or west side of the river, and which furnish
+the name for the Catskill formation. The wide valley between them
+and the river is composed of Chemung, Hamilton, Lower Helderberg and
+Hudson River. The geology on the east or railroad side is entirely
+different.
+
+"Albany. The clay beds at Albany are more than 100 feet thick, and
+between that city and Schenectady they are underlaid by a bed of
+sand that is in some places more than 50 feet thick. There is an
+old glacial clay and boulder drift below the gravel at Albany, but
+Professor Hall says it is not the estuary stratified clay."
+
+       * * *
+
+    There has that little stream of water been playing among the hills
+    since He made the world, and none know how often the hand of God
+    is seen in a wilderness but them that rove it for a man's life.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+THE HUDSON TIDE.
+
+(_Condensed from article by permission of writer._)
+
+The tide in the Hudson River is the continuation of the tide-wave,
+which comes up from the ocean through New York Bay, and is carried
+by its own momentum one hundred and sixty miles, growing, of course,
+constantly smaller, until it is finally stopped by the dam at Troy.
+The crest of this wave, or top high water, is ten hours going from New
+York to Troy. A steamer employing the same time (ten hours) for the
+journey, and starting at high water in New York, would carry a flood
+tide and highest water all the way, and have an up-river current of
+about three miles an hour helping her. On the other hand, the same
+steamer starting six hours later, or at low tide, would have dead low
+water and an ebb tide current of about three miles against her the
+entire way. The average rise and fall of the tides in New York is five
+and one-half feet, and in Troy, about two feet.
+
+Flood tide may carry salt water, under the most favorable
+circumstances, so that it can be detected at Poughkeepsie; ordinarily
+the water is fresh at Newburgh.
+
+To those who have not studied the tides the following will also be of
+interest.
+
+The tides are the semi-diurnal oscillations of the ocean, caused by
+the attraction of the moon and sun.
+
+The influence of the moon's attraction is the preponderating one in
+the tide rising force, while that of the sun is about two-fifths as
+much as that of the moon. The tides therefore follow the motion of the
+moon, and the average interval between the times of high water is the
+half length of the lunar day, or about twelve hours and twenty-five
+minutes.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Nor lives there one whose boyhood's days
+  Of happiness were passed beneath that sun,
+  That in his manhood-prime can calmly gaze
+  Upon that Bay, or on that mountain stand,
+  Nor feel the prouder of his native land.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+CONDENSED POINTS.
+
+_As Seen on the Hudson River Day Line Steamers._
+
+_Desbrosses Street Pier._ On leaving landing a charming view is
+obtained of New York Harbor with Bartholdi Statue to the south.
+
+_Stevens Castle._ Above Jersey City docks on the west, crowning a
+commanding site.
+
+_St. Michael's Monastery_, or Monastery of the Passionist Fathers, on
+west bank above Elysian Fields; distinguished by large dome and towers
+of the St. Paul (London) style of architecture. This dome is 300 feet
+high, and its summit is 515 feet above the Hudson.
+
+_42d Street Pier._ Midway to the dwellers of Greater New York and
+convenient to all Elevated, Subway and Trolley Lines.
+
+_Weehawken_, on the west bank, about opposite 50th Street. Near the
+river bank was the scene of the Hamilton and Burr duel, 1804.
+
+_Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument_, 89th Street, New York. Dedicated
+May 30, 1902. Corner stone laid in 1900 by President Roosevelt when
+Governor.
+
+_Columbia University._ Stately buildings on east bank.
+
+_St. Luke's Hospital._ Beautiful dome in the distance southeast of
+college.
+
+_The Cathedral of St. John the Divine_, now in construction, will be
+one of the finest structures in the world.
+
+_General Grant's Tomb_ at Riverside Drive and 123d Street.
+
+_129th Street Pier._ Above this landing is the Steel Viaduct of the
+Boulevard Drive.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The land that from the rule of kings
+    In freeing us itself made free,
+  Our old world sister to us brings
+    Her sculptured dream of liberty.
+
+  _John G. Whittier._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Carmansville_ (where Audubon, the ornithologist lived), a city suburb
+at 152d Street.
+
+_Trinity Cemetery_, 152d Street, and above this Audubon Park.
+
+_Old Fort Washington_ once crowned the hills on the east bank. Fort
+Lee was almost opposite on the southern point of the Palisades.
+
+_Stewart Castle_, east bank, formerly owned by A. T. Stewart.
+
+_University of City of New York_ with dome, in distance.
+
+_Inwood._ Station on the Hudson River Railroad, above the heights.
+Place once known as Tubbie Hook.
+
+_Palisades_, on west bank, extend fifteen miles from Fort Lee to
+Piermont, a sheer wall of trap rock from 300 to 500 feet high.
+
+_Spuyten Duyvil_, on east bank northern boundary of Manhattan Island.
+
+_Site of Fort Independence_, east bank, on height north of Spuyten
+Duyvil.
+
+_Riverdale Station._ Station on the Hudson River Railroad above
+Spuyten Duyvil. Yonkers rising on the green slope to the north; and
+the Palisades blending in the far distance with green headlands of the
+Ramapo Range.
+
+_Convent of Mount St. Vincent._ The gray, castle-like structure in
+front, was once the home of Edwin Forrest.
+
+_Yonkers_, seventeen miles from Battery.
+
+_Greystone_, on east bank, crowning hill, about one and a half miles
+north of Yonkers. Once property of Samuel J. Tilden.
+
+_Hastings_, pleasant village on east bank.
+
+_Indian Head_ (510 feet), opposite Hastings, highest point of
+Palisades.
+
+_Dobb's Ferry_, on east bank, named after an old Swedish ferryman.
+
+_Cottinet Place_, on east bank, built of stone brought from France.
+Easily distinguished by light shade through trees.
+
+_George L. Schuyler's Residence_, near east bank. The late Col. James
+A. Hamilton's house almost east of Mr. Schuyler's. Stiner's place
+distinguished by its large dome.
+
+       * * *
+
+  From this brow of rock
+  That overlooks the Hudson's western marge,
+  I gaze upon the long array of groves,
+  The piles and gulfs of verdure drinking in the grateful heat.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Ardsley_, on east bank, just above Dobb's Ferry.
+
+_Ardsley Club_ and Golf Links.
+
+_Irvington_, 24 miles from New York, named after Washington Irving.
+
+_Piermont_, on west bank, with pier almost one mile in length
+extending into river.
+
+_Sunnyside_, home of Washington Irving, east bank, one-half mile north
+of Irvington Station, close to river bank and scarcely seen through
+the trees.
+
+_Helen M. Gould's Residence_, east bank, prominent Abbey-like
+structure, known as "Lyndehurst."
+
+_Tarrytown_, east bank, 26 miles from New York.
+
+_Nyack_, west bank, opposite Tarrytown.
+
+_J. D. Rockefeller's New Home_ on Kykuit or Kake-out Mt. back of
+Tarrytown.
+
+_Tappan Zee_, reaching from Dobb's Ferry to Croton Point, is about
+three miles wide at Tarrytown.
+
+_Sleepy Hollow_, east bank, north of Tarrytown; burial place of
+Washington Irving. The tall shaft visible from steamer, erected by the
+Delavan family, is near his grave.
+
+_Kingsland Point_, east bank, above lighthouse.
+
+_Rockwood_, home of William Rockefeller. One of the most imposing
+residences on the river.
+
+_Mrs. Elliot F. Shepard's Residence_, on east bank.
+
+_Ramapo Mountains_, on west side above Nyack, known as "Point No
+Point."
+
+_Ossining_, on east bank, six miles north of Tarrytown. Prison
+buildings are near the river below the village.
+
+_Rockland Lake_, opposite Sing Sing, between two hills; source of the
+Hackensack River.
+
+_Croton River_, on east bank, meets the Hudson one mile above Sing
+Sing; crossed by drawbridge of the Hudson River Railroad.
+
+_Teller's Point._ That part of Croton Point which juts into the Hudson.
+This point separates Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay.
+
+       * * *
+
+  O Tappan Zee! with peaceful hills,
+    And slumbrous sky and drowsy air,
+  Thy calm and restful spirit stills
+    The heart weighed down with weary care.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+_Haverstraw Bay_, widest part of the river; over four miles in width.
+
+_West Shore R. R. Tunnel_ under mountain.
+
+_West Shore Railroad_, west bank, meets the Hudson south of
+Haverstraw.
+
+_Haverstraw_, on west bank, with two miles of brickyards.
+
+_Treason Hill_, where Arnold and Andre met at the house of Joshua Hett
+Smith, northwest of Haverstraw.
+
+_Stony Point_, west bank. Lighthouse built on site and from the
+material of old fort captured from British by Anthony Wayne in 1778.
+
+_Verplank's Point_, on east shore, full of brickyards. It was here
+Baron Steuben drilled the soldiers of '76.
+
+_Tompkin's Cove_, on west bank. Lime kilns and quarries.
+
+_Peekskill_, east bank, pleasantly located on Peekskill Bay.
+
+_New York State Encampment_, on bluff north of Peekskill Creek.
+
+_Kidd's Point_, on west bank, where steamer enters Highlands almost at
+a right angle.
+
+_Dunderberg Mountain_, west bank, forming with Manito Mountain on the
+east southern portal of Highlands.
+
+_Iona Island_, former pleasure resort for excursions, now converted to
+Government use.
+
+_The Race._ The river channel is so termed by navigators, between Iona
+Island and the east bank.
+
+_Anthony's Nose_, east bank, with railroad tunnel.
+
+_Montgomery Creek_, on west side, empties into the Hudson about
+opposite the point of Anthony's Nose. _Fort Clinton_ was on the south
+side of this creek, and _Fort Montgomery_ on the north side.
+
+_J. Pierpont Morgan's Residence_, on west bank.
+
+_Sugar-Loaf_, east bank, resembling an old "sugar-loaf" to one looking
+north from Anthony's Nose.
+
+       * * *
+
+  From Stony Point to Bemis Height,
+    From Saratoga to the sea,
+  We trace the lines, now dark, now bright,
+    From seventy-six to eighty-three.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Beverley Dock_, at foot of Sugar-Loaf, from which point Arnold fled
+to the "Vulture."
+
+_Lady-Cliff Academy_, (west side) on bluff.
+
+_Hamilton Fish's Residence_, on hill, east side.
+
+_William H. Osborne's Residence_, on east bank; house with pointed
+tower north of Sugar-Loaf.
+
+_Sam Sloan's_ lookout tower, east side, on top of mountain. Residence
+on hillside below.
+
+_Buttermilk Falls_, on west bank.
+
+_West Point_, 50 miles from New York, Academy Buildings and Parade
+Grounds.
+
+_Memorial Hall_, building on bluff above landing.
+
+_Kosciusko's Garden_ with monument and spring below Memorial.
+
+_Garrison_, opposite West Point on east bank.
+
+_Fort Putnam_ (596 feet), above the Hudson on west.
+
+_West Point Hotel_, west bank, wide outlook to the north.
+
+_Battle Monument_, surmounted by Statue of "Victory."
+
+_Constitution Island_, on east bank; chain was thrown across the river
+at this point during the Revolution.
+
+_Old Cro' Nest_, picturesque mountain north of West Point on west
+bank.
+
+_Cold Spring_, on east bank, opposite Old Cro' Nest.
+
+_Undercliff_, once the home of George P. Morris, on slope north of
+Cold Spring.
+
+_Break Neck Mountain_, on east bank, from which point the Highlands
+trend away to the northeast, known as the Beacon Mountains or the
+Fishkill Range.
+
+_Storm King_, on west bank, marking northern portal of the Highlands.
+
+_Cornwall_, under the slope of Storm King.
+
+_Pollopel's Island_, at northern portal of the Highlands.
+
+_Idlewild_, above Cornwall, former home of N. P. Willis.
+
+_Washington's Headquarters_, Newburgh, seen as the boat approaches the
+city. A flag-staff marks the point.
+
+_Newburgh_, west bank, 59 miles from New York.
+
+_Fishkill Landing_, on east bank, opposite Newburgh.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Let us toast our foster-father, the Republic as you know--
+  Who in the path of science taught us upward for to go--
+  And the maidens of our native land whose cheeks like roses glow,
+  They're oft remembered in our songs, at Benny Havens--oh!
+
+  _Benny Havens, West Point._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Low Point_ or _Carthage_, 4 miles above Fishkill.
+
+_Devil's Dans Kammer_, point on west bank covered with cedars.
+
+_New Hamburg_, above Low Point, on the east side.
+
+_Hampton Point_, opposite New Hamburgh. Here are the finest white
+cedars on the river.
+
+_Irving Grinnell's Residence, "Netherwood,"_ east bank, just
+distinguished through the trees.
+
+_Shawangunk Mountains_, on the west side, reach away in the distance
+toward the Catskills.
+
+_Marlborough_ and _Milton_, on west bank.
+
+_Locust Grove._ Home of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse on east bank, with
+square central tower.
+
+_The Lookout_, a wooded hill owned by Poughkeepsie Cemetery.
+
+_Livingston Place_, now occupied by a rolling mill.
+
+_Vassar Brothers Hospital_, brick building on the hillside.
+
+_Poughkeepsie_, 74 miles from New York.
+
+_Poughkeepsie Bridge_, 12,608 feet in length. Track 212 feet above
+tide-water.
+
+_Mrs. John F. Winslow's Residence_, seen through opening of trees on
+east bank.
+
+_Hudson River State Hospital._ Large red buildings on east bank, two
+miles north of Poughkeepsie.
+
+_Hyde Park_, on the east side.
+
+_Residence of Frederick W. Vanderbilt_, with white marble Corinthian
+columns.
+
+_Manresa Institute_, large building above Crum Elbow, on west side.
+
+_A. R. Frothingham._ Grecian portico with columns.
+
+_John Burrough's_ brown stone cottage, north of Frothingham's.
+
+_The Novitiate of the Redemption Fathers_, a large new building on
+west bank at Esopus.
+
+_Staatsburgh, on east side._ Dock and ice houses in foreground.
+
+       * * *
+
+  While fashion seeks the islands
+    Encircled by the sea,
+  Taste finds the Hudson Highlands
+    More beautiful to see.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+_D. O. Mills' Mansion_, palatial residence on the east bank above
+Staatsburgh.
+
+_Dinsmore's Residence_, a large building charmingly located on
+Dinsmore Point, east bank.
+
+_Ellerslie_, residence of Ex-Vice-President Levi P. Morton, below
+Rhinecliff.
+
+_Rhinecliff_, on east bank.
+
+_City of Kingston_, embraces Kingston and Rondout.
+
+_Kingston Point._ Delightful park and picnic grounds near the landing.
+
+_Old Beekman Place_, on east bank, a short distance above Rhinecliff.
+One of the old Revolutionary houses.
+
+_Ferncliff, Residence of John Jacob Astor._ Fine villa with pointed
+tower.
+
+_Out-of-Door Sports._ A large building on east bank, erected by Mr.
+Astor.
+
+_Garretson Place_, north of Ferncliff, on east bank.
+
+_"Leacote," Douglas Merritt's Residence_, north of Clifton Point.
+
+_Flatbush_, on west bank opposite Clifton Point.
+
+_Rokeby, Residence of late William B. Astor_, above Astor's Point.
+
+_Barrytown_, on east side.
+
+_Aspinwall Place_, north of Barrytown, formerly John R. Livingston's
+place.
+
+_Montgomery Place_, east bank, among the trees.
+
+"_Annandale_," name of John Bard's place. East of this is St.
+Stephen's College, a training school for the ministry.
+
+_Cruger's Residence_, on Cruger's Island--once called Lower Red Hook
+Island.
+
+_Tivoli_, on east side, 100 miles from New York.
+
+_Glasco_, south of Tivoli on the west side.
+
+_Saugerties_, on the west side.
+
+_Idele_, property of Miss Clarkson, known as the old Chancellor Place,
+on east bank.
+
+_Hotel Kaaterskill_ is plainly seen from this point.
+
+       * * *
+
+  O would that she were here,
+    Sure Eden's garden-plot,
+  Did not embrace more varied charms
+    Than this romantic spot.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Malden_, above Saugerties, on west side.
+
+_Clermont_, above Tivoli. The original Livingston manor.
+
+_West Camp_, on west side, above Malden.
+
+_Four County Island._ The "meeting point" of Dutchess, Columbia,
+Greene and Ulster.
+
+_Germantown_, on east side, 105 miles from New York.
+
+_Man in the Mountain._ Between Germantown and Catskill we get a fine
+view of the reclining giant, traced by the following outline:--the
+peak to the south is the _knee_; the next to the north is the
+_breast_; and two or three above this, the _chin_, the _nose_, and the
+_forehead_.
+
+_Roeliff Jansen's Kill_ meets the Hudson on east bank above what is
+known by the pilots as Nine Mile Tree.
+
+_Herman Livingston's Residence_, on point above.
+
+_Catskill Creek_ joins the Hudson south of Catskill.
+
+_Catskill_, 110 miles from New York. Route from this point to Catskill
+Mountains, via Catskill Mountain Railroad.
+
+_Prospect Park Hotel_, on west bank, north of Catskill.
+
+_Cole's Grove_, north of Catskill. Here was the residence of Thomas
+Cole, the artist.
+
+_Frederick E. Church's Residence._ One of the most commanding sites
+and finest residences, opposite Catskill.
+
+_Rodger's Island_, on the east side, where the last battle was fought
+between the Mohawks and the Mahicans.
+
+_Mount Merino_, two miles north of Roger's Island.
+
+_State Reformatory for Women_, on bluff south of Hudson.
+
+_Hudson_, 115 miles from New York. Promenade Hill just north of
+landing.
+
+_Athens_, quiet village, on the west bank.
+
+_Stockport._ On east side, four miles north of Hudson, near the mouth
+of Columbiaville Creek, formed by the union of the Kinderhook and
+Claverack Creeks.
+
+_Four-mile Point._ On west side, about 125 feet high; four miles from
+Hudson and four from Coxsackie.
+
+_Coxsackie._ On west side, 8 miles from Hudson.
+
+       * * *
+
+  For while the beautiful moon arose,
+    And drifted the boat in the yellow beams,
+  My soul went down the river of thought
+    That flows in the mystic land of dreams.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Newtown Hook_, opposite Coxsackie. The wooded point is called
+Prospect Grove.
+
+_Stuyvesant._ On the east side. Once called Kinderhook Landing.
+
+_Schodack Island._ On east side, about two miles above Stuyvesant. The
+island is about 3 miles long.
+
+_New Baltimore._ About opposite the centre of Schodack Island; fifteen
+miles from Hudson and fifteen from Albany. The Government dykes begin
+opposite New Baltimore.
+
+_Berren Island._ Site of the famous "Castle of Rensselaerstien."
+
+_Coeymans._ Right above Berren Island. Above Coeymans is what is known
+as the Coeyman's Cross Over.
+
+_Shad Island._ The first island to the westward above Coeymans; 3
+miles long; old Indian fishing ground.
+
+_Castleton_, on east bank, in the town of Schodack.
+
+_Mourdeners Kill_, a small stream which empties into the Hudson above
+Castleton.
+
+_Sunnyside Island_ near east bank.
+
+_Cedar Hill_, above, on west bank.
+
+_Staats Island_, settled by the Staats family before the arrival of
+the Van Rensselaers.
+
+_The Overslaugh_ reaches from Van Wies' Point (the first point above
+Cedar Hill), on east bank, about two miles up the river.
+
+_Albany_, 142 miles from New York, is now near at hand, and we see to
+the south the Convent of the Sacred Heart; to the north the Cathedral,
+the Capitol, the State House, the City Hall, etc.
+
+_Rensselaer_, opposite. Connected with Albany by ferries two railroad
+bridges, and carriage bridge.
+
+_Old Van Rensselaer Place._ One of the Van Rensselaer houses on the
+east bank, built before the Revolution. The tourist will note the port
+holes on either side of the door as defense against Indians.
+
+       * * *
+
+  In love to the deep-bosomed stream of the west
+  I fling this loose blossom to float on its breast.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note--Errata (Old Typos) and Corrections
+
+   TOC:--
+      Entries for "New Amsterdam" and "The Dutch and the English"
+        reversed, and page number for New Amsterdam changed from 25 to 23.
+      Page number for "New York" changed from 26 to 27.
+      Page number for "Yonkers to West Point" changed from 59 to 60.
+      Changed: '97-104' to '97-103', to match entry.
+      Changed: '152' (1st listing) to '151', to match entry.
+      Page number for "Source of the Hudson" changed from 201 to 202.
+      Changed: 'Colombia County' to 'Columbia Springs', to match entry.
+   Page 9: Restored missing period and missing half of closing quote.
+     [Illustration: Hendrick Hudson's "Half Moon."]
+   Page 35: added 's' to 'landing' (...steamers make their various
+      landings.)
+   Page 43: removed extraneous closing quote.
+   Page 46: added comma after 'erection' (..., now in process of
+      erection, ...)
+   Page 55: added 's' to 'make' (forgetting even, as Bryant did, that a
+     vertical line from the top of the cliff on account of the crumbling
+     debris of ages make(s) it impossible for even the strongest arm to
+     hurl a stone from the summit to the margin of the river).
+   Page 59: missing closing quote, and possibly also missing text in
+     paragraph?
+      (one narrator says: "remarkable disappearances ...)
+   Page 76: changed 'materal' to 'material'.
+   Page 80: changed 'Revoluton'to 'Revolution'.
+   Page 94: added missing comma after 'library': "The Library, founded
+     in 1812, has about 50,000 volumes."
+   Page 95: changed 'Seige' to 'Siege'"... Siege Battery on the slope...."
+   Page 96: changed 'pictureque' to 'picturesque'.
+   Page 107: changed (Major Tench) 'Tighlman' to 'Tilghman'.
+   Page 107: added opening quote ..."the proclamation of Congress and
+      the farewell orders of Washington were read, and the last word
+      of command given."
+   Page 108/9: changed 'proclams' to 'proclaims'.
+   Page 110: changed: 'The Marquis De Chastelleaux' to 'The Marquis De
+     Chastellux' (ref.: google)
+   Page 113: changed: 'The Marquis De Chastelleux' to 'The Marquis De
+     Chastellux'
+   Page 125: added 's' to 'thousand' (thousands of young men)
+   Page 129: (While sunset gilds) 'theee', to 'thee',
+   Page 139: changed 'openng' to 'opening'.
+   Page 145: changed 'Sofly' to 'Softly'.
+   Page 153: changed 'communicaton' to 'communication'.
+   Page 153: added closing quote (in about 32 hours.")
+   Page 155: changed 'wth' to 'with'
+   Page 173: changed 'thousand' to 'thousands' (...thousands of
+     laboring men... )
+   Page 205: added 's' to 'brick' (thousands of bricks)
+   Page 212: added " to para beginning ("Viewed from the railroad ...)
+   Page 212: added 's' to 'thousand' (Thousands of travellers ...)
+
+Also added: Periods and commas, various (in the poetry footnotes). The
+text appears worn; there is space for a period (and a couple of letters
+are missing), so I am assuming that the missing punctuation may have
+been rubbed off the page.
+
+I have also encountered a number of instances throughout the book where
+the author quoted from an external source and omitted either the opening
+or closing quotation mark, and it is not obvious from the text just
+where the quote began or ended. In a couple of instances I have hazarded
+a guess, but have otherwise left the single quotaton mark in place, as it
+appears in the original.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Hudson, by Wallace Bruce
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HUDSON ***
+
+***** This file should be named 17823-8.txt or 17823-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/1/7/8/2/17823/
+
+Produced by Curtis Weyant, Lesley Halamek and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by Cornell University Digital Collections)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
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+	<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Hudson, by Wallace Bruce
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Hudson
+       Three Centuries of History, Romance and Invention
+
+Author: Wallace Bruce
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2006 [EBook #17823]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HUDSON ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Curtis Weyant, Lesley Halamek and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by Cornell University Digital Collections)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+	<body>
+<p class="center"><a name="return"></a>	
+<a href="#tn">[Transcriber's Note]</a></p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/cover-front-942.png"><img src="images/cover-front-306.png" width="306" height="450" alt="front cover" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad01-1014.png"><img src="images/ad01-600.png" width="600" height="443" alt="advert - Astor House," border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad02-800.png"><img src="images/ad02-352.png" width="352" height="450" alt="advert - Hudson River Panorama" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad03-738.png"><img src="images/ad03-324.png" width="324" height="450" alt="advert - Hotel Victoria, New York" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad04-766.png"><img src="images/ad04-340.png" width="340" height="450" alt="advert - The Catskill Mountain Railway" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad05-828.png"><img src="images/ad05-357.png" width="357" height="450" alt="advert - Leading Hotel of Albany, N. Y. - The Ten Eyck" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="full" />
+	
+
+<br /><br /><br />
+
+<h1>THE HUDSON</h1><br />
+
+<h2>Three Centuries of</h2>
+<h2>History, Romance and Invention</h2><br /><br />
+
+<h3>BY WALLACE BRUCE</h3><br /><br />
+
+<h4>Centennial Edition</h4>
+<h5>Published by<br />
+BRYANT UNION COMPANY<br />
+NEW YORK</h5>
+<br /><br />
+
+<h5><span class="sc">Copyright 1907 by Wallace Bruce</span></h5>
+
+
+
+
+<br /><br /><hr /><br /><br />
+
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><a class="contents" href="#p7">CENTENNIAL GREETING.</a></h4>
+
+<table width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2" valign="top">&nbsp;</td>
+ <td class="right">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2">   
+<a class="contents" href="#page9"><span class="sc">History, Romance and Invention</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page9">9-39</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p10">An Open Book</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page10">10</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p11">The Hudson and the Rhine</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page11">11</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p12">The Half Moon</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page12">12</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page15">Its Discovery</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page15">15</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p16">First Description</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page16">16</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p18">Names of the Hudson</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page18">18</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p19-1">Hills and Mountains</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page19">19</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p19-2">Sources of the Hudson</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page19">19</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p20">First Settlement</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page20">20</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p21">The West India Company</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page21">21</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p23-1">Original Manors and Patents</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page23">23</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p23-2">New Amsterdam</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page23">23</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p24">The Dutch and the English</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page24">24</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page27">New York</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page27">27</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p28-1">A Page of Patriotism</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page28">28</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p28-2">Sons of Liberty</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page28">28</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p30">Greater New York</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page30">30</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p31">Hudson River Steamboats</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page31">31</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p34">Day Line Steamers</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page34">34</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p38">The Old Reaches</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page38">38</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p39">Five Divisions of the Hudson</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page39">39</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<h4><a class="contents" href="#page41">NEW YORK TO ALBANY.</a></h4>                                                                                  
+                                                 
+ <table width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page41"><span class="sc">Desbrosses Street Pier to Forty-Second Street</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page41">41-43</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p41-2">Historic River Front</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page41">41</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p41-3">A Great Panorama</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page41">41</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#psl">Statue of Liberty</a>&mdash;<a class="contents" href="#p42">Stevens Castle</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page42">42</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table> 
+  <br />
+<table width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#p43-1"><span class="sc">Forty-Second to One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page43">43-48</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p43-2">Weehawken, Hamilton and Burr</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page43">43</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p45">Riverside Drive and Park</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page45">45</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page46">Columbia University</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page46">46</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p46">General Grant's Tomb</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page46">46</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>                                  
+<br />
+<table width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page49"><span class="sc">One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth St. to Yonkers</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page49">49-50</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p49">Washington Heights</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page49">49</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p52">The Palisades</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page52">52</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p56">Island of Manhattan</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page56">56</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p57">Spuyten Duyvel Creek</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page57">57</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p58">Yonkers</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page58">58</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+  <br />                                        
+<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page60"><span class="sc">Yonkers to West Point</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page60">59-96</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p60">Hastings and Dobbs Ferry</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page60">60</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p61">Tappan Zee and Piermont</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page61">61</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p62">Irvington and "Sunnyside"</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page62">62</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p63">Washington Irving</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page63">63</a></td>
+</tr>                                              
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page66">The Headless Horseman</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page66">66</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p67">Tarrytown and Tappan</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page67">67</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page70">Sleepy Hollow</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page70">70</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p72">Nyack</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page72">72</a></td>
+</tr>                                                          
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p73">Ossining</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page73">73</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p74">Croton River and Reservoir</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page74">74</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p75">Haverstraw</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page75">75</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p77">Stony Point</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page77">77</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p79">Peekskill</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page79">79</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p80">Story of Captain Kidd</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page80">80</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p81">The Highlands</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page81">81</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p82">Dunderberg</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page82">82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p83">Anthony's Nose</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page83">83</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p84">Fort Clinton and Fort Montgomery</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page84">84</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p87">Beverley House</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page87">87</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page88">Arnold's Flight</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page88">88</a></td>
+</tr>                                               
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p91">Buttermilk Falls</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page91">91</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p92">West Point Military Academy</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page92">92</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p93">Plateau Buildings and Memorials</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page93">93-94</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p95">Fort Putnam</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page95">95</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />
+ 	<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page97"><span class="sc">West Point to Newburgh</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page97">97-103</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p98">Northern Gate of Highlands</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page98">98</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p99">"Undercliff"</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page99">99</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p100">Storm King</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page100">100</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p102">Cornwall and "Idlewild"</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page102">102</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />
+ <table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page104"><span class="sc">Newburgh to Poughkeepsie</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page104">104-128</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p104">Washington's Headquarters</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page104">104</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p105">Refusing the Crown</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page105">105</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p106">Suffering of Soldiers</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page106">106</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p107">Cessation of Hostilities</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page107">107</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p109">Marquis de Lafayette</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page109">109</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p10">Centennial Celebration</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page110">110</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p113">Fishkill</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page113">113</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p118">Duyvel's Dans Kammer</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page118">118</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p119">"Locust Grove"</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page119">119</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p120">The Storm Ship</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page120">120</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p121">Poughkeepsie</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page121">121</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />                           
+ <table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page129"><span class="sc">Poughkeepsie to Kingston</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page129">129-146</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p130-1">Hyde Park</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page130">130</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p130-2">Mount Hymettus</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page130">130</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p135">Rhinecliff</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page135">135</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p136">City of Kingston</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page136">136</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p138">The Senate House</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page138">138</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p142">The Southern Catskills</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page142">142</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />
+<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page147"><span class="sc">Kingston to Catskill</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page147">147-168</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p147">Montgomery Place</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page147">147</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p149">Story of Steam Navigation</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page149">149</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p151">Robert Fulton</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page152">151</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p152">The "Clermont"</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page152">152</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p154">Tivoli</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page154">154</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p156">Saugerties</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page156">156</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page157">The Livingston Country</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page157">157</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p158">The "Shad Industry"</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page158">158</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p160">Germantown</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page160">160</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p160">Man in the Mountain</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page160">160</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p162">New York City Water Supply</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page162">162</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p163">The Clover Reach</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page163">163</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p164">Catskill</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page164">164</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p165">Otis Elevating Railway</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page165">165</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />                         
+<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page169"><span class="sc">Catskill to Hudson</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page169">169-172</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p169">Hudson</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page169">169</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p170">Columbia Springs</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page170">170</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p171">Claverack and Hillsdale</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page171">171</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />                       
+<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page173"><span class="sc">Hudson to Albany</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page173">173-185</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p173-1">Athens</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page173">173</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p173-2">The Ice Industry</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page173">173</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p176">Anthony Van Corlear</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page176">176</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p177">The Mahican Tribe</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page177">177</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p178">The Mahicans, Delawares and Iroquois</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page178">178</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p180">The Old Van Rensselaer House</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page180">180</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p181">Albany</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page181">181</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />                                                      
+                                            
+   <h4><a class="contents" href="#page186">THE UPPER HUDSON.</a></h4>
+	
+	<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page186"><span class="sc">Albany to Saratoga</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page186">186-191</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p187">Saratoga</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page187">187</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p189">Historic Saratoga</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page189">189</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p190">Mount McGregor</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page190">190</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />                       
+	<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page191"><span class="sc">Saratoga to the Adirondacks</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page191">191-201</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page192">Saratoga to Lake George</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page192">192</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />
+	
+	<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page197"><span class="sc">Lake George to the Adirondacks</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page197">197-201</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p198">Ticonderoga</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page198">198</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p199">Bluff Point</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page199">199</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p201">Plattsburgh and the Saranacs</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page201">201</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />                     
+	<table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page202"><span class="sc">Source of the Hudson</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page202">202-210</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p202">The Tahawas Club</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page202">202</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p203">The Upper Ausable</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page203">203</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p204">Haystack and Camp Colden</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page204">204</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p205">The Deserted Village</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page205">205</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p206">Indian Pass</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page206">206</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#p210">Tahawas</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page210">210</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />
+  <table  width="80%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td colspan="2" >   
+<a class="contents" href="#page211"><span class="sc">Geology, Tides and Condensed Points</span></a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page211">211-224</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page211">Geological Formation</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page211">211-215</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page215">The Hudson Tide</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page215">215</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td width="5%">&nbsp;</td><td>
+<a class="contents" href="#page216">Condensed Points&mdash;New York to Albany</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#page216">216-224</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br />
+              
+<br /><br /><hr /><br /><br />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/008-834.png"><img src="images/008-600.png" width="600" height="347" alt="ROBERT FULTON'S 'CLERMONT' 1807" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>ROBERT FULTON'S "CLERMONT" 1807</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+<a name="page7" id="page7"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;7]</span>
+
+
+
+<a name="p7" id="p7"></a>
+<h2>1907&mdash;1909</h2>
+
+<h3><i>CENTENNIAL GREETING</i></h3>
+
+<p>
+<i>Hendrick Hudson and Robert Fulton are closely
+associated in the history of our river, and more particularly
+at this time, as the dates of their achievements
+unite the centennial of the first successful
+steamer in 1807, with the tri-centennial of the discovery
+of the river in 1609. In fact, these three centuries
+of navigation, with rapidly increasing development
+in later years, might be graphically condensed&mdash;</i></p>
+<p>
+"<i>Half Moon</i>," <i>1609</i>; "<i>Clermont</i>," <i>1807</i>;</p>
+<p>
+"<i>Hendrick Hudson</i>," <i>1906</i>.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Singularly enough the discovery of Hendrick Hudson,
+and the invention of Robert Fulton are also similar
+in having many adverse claimants who forget the
+difference between attempt and accomplishment.</i></p>
+<p>
+<i>Everyone knows that Verrazano entered the Narrows
+and harbor of our river in 1524, and sailed far
+enough to see the outline of the Palisades; that Gomez
+visited its mouth in 1525; Cabot still earlier in 1498;
+and various Norsemen, named and nameless, for several
+centuries before them, coasted along the shore and
+indenture of the "River of the Manhattoes," but failed
+to acquire or transmit any knowledge of the river's
+real course or character, and it was left for Hendrick
+Hudson to be its first voyager and thereby to have and <a name="page8" id="page8"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;8]</span>
+to hold against all comers the glory of discovery.</i></p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A century vast of Hudson-fame</p>  
+  <p class="i2">Which Irving's fancy seals;</p>
+<p>Whose ripples murmur Morse's name</p>
+  <p class="i2">And flash to Fulton's wheels.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i16">
+<i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<i>So Robert Fulton had several predecessors in the
+idea of applying steam to navigation&mdash;John Fitch in
+1785, William Symington in 1788 and many others
+who likewise</i> coasted along the shore and indenture of
+a great idea, <i>marked by continual failure and final
+abandonment. It was reserved for Fulton to complete
+and stamp upon his labor the seal of service and success,
+and to stand, therefore, its accepted inventor.</i></p>
+<p>
+<i>In addition to the invention of Fulton who has
+contributed so much to the business and brotherhood of
+mankind, the telegraph of Morse occupies a prominent
+page of our Hudson history, and it is said that Morse
+left unfinished a novel, the incidents of which were
+associated with the Highlands, in order to work out
+his idea which gave the Hudson a grander chapter.</i></p>
+<p>
+<i>Fulton's and Morse's inventions are also happily
+associated in this, that the steamboat was necessary
+before the Atlantic cable, born of Morse's invention,
+could be laid, and, singularly enough, the laying of
+the cable, largely promoted by Hudson River genius
+and capital, by Field, Cooper, Morse and others on
+August 5, 1857, marks the very middle of the centennial
+which we are now observing.</i></p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A cycle grand with wonders fraught</p>
+  <p class="i2">That triumph over time and space;</p>
+<p>In woven steel its dreams are wrought,</p>
+  <p class="i2">The nations whisper face to face.</p></div>
+  <div class="stanza">
+<p class="i16">
+<i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page9" id="page9"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;9]</span>
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/011-1000.png"><img src="images/011-600.png" width="600" height="307" alt="Hendrick Hudson's 'Half Moon'" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b><i>Hendrick Hudson's "Half Moon."</i></b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>THE HUDSON</h2>
+
+<p>
+Among all the rivers of the world the Hudson is
+acknowledged queen, decked with romance, jewelled with
+poetry, clad with history, and crowned with beauty.
+More than this, the Hudson is a noble threshold to a
+great continent and New York Bay a fitting portal.
+The traveler who enters the Narrows for the first time
+is impressed with wonder, and the charm abides even
+with those who pass daily to and fro amid her beauties.
+No other river approaches the Hudson in varied grandeur
+and sublimity, and no other city has so grand and commodious
+a harbor as New York. It has been the
+privilege of the writer of this hand-book to see again
+and again most of the streams of the old world "renowned
+in song and story," to behold sunrise on the
+Bay of Naples and sunset at the Golden Gate of San
+Francisco, but the spell of the Hudson remains unbroken,
+and the bright bay at her mouth reflects the noontide
+without a rival. To pass a day in her company, rich<a name="page10" id="page10"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;10]</span>
+with the story and glory of three hundred years, is worth
+a trip across a continent, and it is no wonder that the
+European traveler says again and again: "to see the
+Hudson alone, is worth a voyage across the Atlantic."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A very good land to fall in with and a pleasant land  
+to see!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>Hendrick Hudson</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p10" id="p10"></a>
+How like a great volume of history romance and poetry
+seem her bright illumined pages with the broad river
+lying as a crystal book-mark between her open leaves!
+And how real this idea becomes to the Day Line tourist,
+with the record of Washington and Hamilton for its
+opening sentence, as he leaves the Up-Town landing, and
+catches messages from Fort Washington and Fort Lee.
+What Indian legends cluster about the brow of Indian
+Head blending with the love story of Mary Phillipse at
+the Manor House of Yonkers. How Irving's vision of
+Katrina and Sleepy Hollow become woven with the
+courage of Paulding and the capture of Andre at Tarrytown.
+How the Southern Portal of the Highlands stands
+sentineled by Stony Point, a humble crag converted by
+the courage of Anthony Wayne into a mountain peak
+of Liberty.</p>
+<p>
+How North and South Beacon again summon the
+Hudson yeomen from harvest fields to the defense of
+country, while Fort Putnam, still eloquent in her ruins,
+looks down upon the best drilled boys in the world at
+West Point. Further on Newburgh, Poughkeepsie and
+Kingston shake fraternal hands in the abiding trinity of
+Washington, Hamilton and Clinton, while northward rise
+the Ontioras where Rip Van Winkle slept, and woke to
+wonder at the happenings of twenty years.</p>
+<p>
+What stories of silent valleys told by murmuring
+streams from the Berkshire Hills and far away fields
+where Stark and Ethan Allen triumphed. What tales of
+Cooper, where the Mohawk entwines her fingers with
+those of the Susquehanna, and poems of Longfellow,
+Bryant and Holmes, of Dwight, of Halleck and of Drake;
+ay, and of Yankee Doodle too, written at the Old Van
+Rensselaer House almost within a pebble-throw of the<a name="page11" id="page11"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;11]</span>
+steamer as it approaches Albany. What a wonderful
+book of history and beauty, all to be read in one day's
+journey!</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+    <p class="i2">Roll on! Roll on!</p>
+  <p>Thou river of the North! Tell thou to all</p>
+  <p>The isles, tell thou to all the Continents</p>
+  <p>The grandeur of my land.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Wallace.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p11" id="p11"></a>
+The <b>Hudson</b> has often been styled "The Rhine of
+America." There is, however, little of similarity and
+much of contrast. The Rhine from Dusseldorf to Manheim
+is only twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet in
+breadth. The Hudson from New York to Albany averages
+more than five thousand feet from bank to bank.
+At Tappan Zee the Hudson is ten times as wide as the
+Rhine at any point above Cologne. At Bonn the Rhine
+is barely one-third of a mile, whereas the Hudson at
+Haverstraw Bay is over four miles in width. The average
+breadth of the Hudson from New York to Poughkeepsie
+is almost eight thousand feet.</p>
+<p>
+The mountains of the Rhine also lack the imposing
+character of the Highlands. The far-famed Drachenfels,
+the Landskron, and the Stenzleburg are only seven hundred
+and fifty feet above the river; the Alteberg eight
+hundred, the Rosenau nine hundred, and the great Oelberg
+thirteen hundred and sixty-two. According to the latest
+United States Geological Survey the entire group of
+mountains at the northern gate of the Highlands is
+from fourteen hundred to sixteen hundred and twenty-five
+feet in height, not to speak of the Catskills from
+three thousand to almost four thousand feet in altitude.</p>
+<p>
+It is not the fault of the Rhine with its nine hundred
+miles of rapid flow that it looks tame compared with the
+Hudson. Even the Mississippi, draining a valley three
+thousand miles in extent, looks insignificant at St. Louis
+or New Orleans contrasted with the Hudson at Tarrytown.
+The Hudson is in fact a vast estuary of the
+sea; the tide rises two feet at Albany and six inches
+at Troy. A professor of the Berlin University says:
+"You lack our castles but the Hudson is infinitely
+grander." Thackeray, in "The Virginians," gives the
+Hudson the verdict of beauty; and George William Curtis,<a name="page12" id="page12"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;12]</span>
+comparing the Hudson with the rivers of the Old World,
+has gracefully said: "The Danube has in part glimpses
+of such grandeur, the Elbe has sometimes such delicately 
+penciled effects, but no European river is so lordly
+in its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I have been up and down the Hudson by water. The</p> 
+<p>entire river is pretty, but the glory of the Hudson is at</p>
+<p>West Point.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Anthony Trollope.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Baedeker, a high and just authority, in his recent Guide
+to the United States says: "The Hudson has sometimes
+been called the American Rhine, but that title perhaps
+does injustice to both rivers. The Hudson, through a
+great part of its extent, is three or four times as wide
+as the Rhine, and its scenery is grander and more inspiring;
+while, though it lacks the ruined castles and
+ancient towns of the German river, it is by no means
+devoid of historical associations of a more recent character.
+The vine-clad slopes of the Rhine have, too, no
+ineffective substitute in the brilliant autumn coloring of
+the timbered hillsides of the Hudson."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A stately stream around which as around</p>
+<p>The German Rhine hover mystic shapes</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Richard Burton</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p12" id="p12"></a>
+What must have been the sensation of those early
+voyagers, coasting a new continent, as they halted at
+the noble gateway of the river and gazed northward
+along the green fringed Palisades; or of Hendrick Hudson,
+who first traversed its waters from Manhattan to
+the Mohawk, as he looked up from the chubby bow of his
+<b>"Half Moon"</b> at the massive columnar formation of the
+Palisades or at the great mountains of the Highlands;
+what dreams of success, apparently within reach, were
+his, when night came down in those deep forest solitudes
+under the shadowy base of Old Cro' Nest and Klinkerberg
+Mountain, where his little craft seemed a lone cradle
+of civilization; and then, when at last, with immediate
+purpose foiled, he turned his boat southward, having discovered,
+but without knowing it, something infinitely
+more valuable to future history than his long-sought
+"Northwestern Passage to China," how he must have
+gazed with blended wonder and awe at the distant Catskills
+as their sharp lines came out, as we have seen them
+many a September morning, bold and clear along the<a name="page13" id="page13"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;13]</span>
+horizon, and learned in gentle reveries the poetic meaning
+of the blue <i>Ontioras</i> or "Mountains of the Sky." How
+fondly he must have gazed on the picturesque hills
+above Apokeepsing and listened to the murmuring music
+of Winnikee Creek, when the air was clear as crystal
+and the banks seemed to be brought nearer, perfectly
+reflected in the glassy surface, while here and there his
+eye wandered over grassy uplands, and rested on hills
+of maize in shock, looking for all the world like mimic
+encampments of Indian wigwams! Then as October
+came with tints which no European eye had ever seen,
+and sprinkled the hill-tops with gold and russet, he must
+indeed have felt that he was living an enchanted life, or
+journeying in a fairy land!</p>
+<p>
+How graphically the poet Willis has put the picture
+in musical prose: "Fancy the bold Englishman, as the
+Dutch called Hendrick Hudson, steering his little yacht
+the 'Haalve Maan,' for the first time through the Highlands.
+Imagine his anxiety for the channel forgotten,
+as he gazed up at the towering rocks, and round the
+green shores, and onward past point and opening bend,
+miles away into the heart of the country; yet with no
+lessening of the glorious stream before him and no
+decrease of promise in the bold and luxuriant shores.
+Picture him lying at anchor below Newburgh with the
+dark pass of the Wey-Gat frowning behind him, the
+lofty and blue Catskills beyond, and the hillsides around
+covered with lords of the soil exhibiting only less wonder
+than friendliness."</p>
+<p>
+If Willis forgot the season of the year and left out the
+landscape glow which the voyager saw, Talmage completed
+the picture in a rainbow paragraph of color:
+"Along our river and up and down the sides of the great
+hills there was an indescribable mingling of gold, and
+orange and crimson and saffron, now sobering into drab
+and maroon, now flaring up into solferino and scarlet.
+Here and there the trees looked as if their tips had blossomed<a name="page14" id="page14"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;14]</span>
+into fire. In the morning light the forests seemed
+as if they had been transfigured and in the evening hours
+they looked as if the sunset had burst and dropped upon
+the leaves. It seemed as if the sea of divine glory had
+dashed its surf to the top of the crags and it had come
+dripping down to the lowest leaf and deepest cavern."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>So fair yon haven clasped its isles, in such a sunset gleam,</p>
+<p>When Hendrick and his sea-worn tars first sounded up the stream.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+On such a day in 1883 it was the privilege of the
+writer to stand before 150,000 people at Newburgh on
+the occasion of the Centennial Celebration of the Disbanding
+of the Army under Washington, and, in his poem
+entitled "The Long Drama," to portray the great mountain
+background bounding the southern horizon with
+autumnal splendor:</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>October lifts with colors bright</p>
+    <p class="i2">Her mountain canvas to the sky,</p>
+  <p>The crimson trees aglow with light</p>
+    <p class="i2">Unto our banners wave reply.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Like Horeb's bush the leaves repeat</p>
+    <p class="i2">From lips of flame with glory crowned:&mdash;</p>
+  <p>"Put off thy shoes from off thy feet,</p>
+    <p class="i2">The place they trod is holy ground."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>
+Such was the vision Hendrick Hudson must have had
+in those far-off September and October days, and such
+the picture which visitors still compass long distances
+to behold.</p>
+<p>
+"It is a far cry to Loch Awe" says an old Scottish
+proverb, and it is a long step from the sleepy rail of
+the "Half Moon" to the roomy-decked floating palaces&mdash;the
+"Hendrick Hudson," the "New York" and the "Albany."
+Before beginning our journey let us, therefore,
+bridge the distance with a few intermediate facts, from
+1609, relating to the discovery of the river, its early
+settlement, its old reaches and other points essential to
+the fullest enjoyment of our trip, which in sailor-parlance
+might be styled "a gang-plank of history," reaching as
+it does from the old-time yacht to the modern steamer,
+and spanning three hundred years.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The prow of the "Half-Moon" has left a broadening</p>
+<p>wake whose ripples have written an indelible history,</p>
+<p>not only along the Hudson's shores, but have left their</p>
+<p>imprint on kingdoms over the sea.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>William Wait.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page15" id="page15"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;15]</span>
+<p>
+<b>Its Discovery.</b>&mdash;In the year 1524, thirty-two years after
+the discovery of America, the navigator Verrazano, a
+French officer, anchored off the island of Manhattan and
+proceeded a short distance up the river. The following
+year, Gomez, a Portuguese in the employ of Spain,
+coasted along the continent and entered the Narrows.
+Several sea-rovers also visited our noble bay about
+1598, but it was reserved for Hendrick Hudson, with a
+mixed crew of eighteen or twenty men in the "Half
+Moon," to explore the river from Sandy Hook to Albany,
+and carry back to Europe a description of its beauty.
+He had previously made two fruitless voyages for the
+Muscovy Company&mdash;an English corporation&mdash;in quest of
+a passage to China, <i>via</i> the North Pole and Nova Zembla.</p>
+<p>
+In the autumn of 1608 he was called to Amsterdam,
+and sailed from Texel, April 5, 1609, in the service of
+the Dutch East India Company. Reaching Greenland he
+coasted southward, arriving at Cape Cod August 6th,
+Chesapeake Bay August 28th, and then sailed north to
+Sandy Hook. He entered the Bay of New York September
+the 3d, passed through the Narrows, and anchored
+in what is now called Newark Bay; on the 12th resumed
+his voyage, and, drifting with the tide, remained over
+night on the 13th about three miles above the northern
+end of Manhattan Island; on the 14th sailed through
+what is now known as Tappan Zee and Haverstraw Bay,
+entered the Highlands and anchored for the night near
+the present dock of West Point. On the morning of
+the 15th beheld Newburgh Bay, reached Catskill on the
+16th, Athens on the 17th, Castleton and Albany on the
+18th, and sent out an exploring boat as far as Waterford.
+He became thoroughly satisfied that this route did
+not lead to China&mdash;a conclusion in harmony with that of
+Champlain, who, the same summer, had been making
+his way south, through Lake Champlain and Lake George,
+in quest of the South Sea.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>O mighty river of the North! Thy lips meet ocean</p>
+<p>here, and in deep joy he lifts his great white brow, and</p>
+<p>gives his stormy voice a milder tone.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>William Wallace</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page16" id="page16"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;16]</span>
+<p>
+There is something humorous in the idea of these old
+mariners attempting to sail through a continent 3,000
+miles wide, seamed with mountain chains from 2,000 to
+15,000 feet in height. Hudson's return voyage began
+September 23d. He anchored again in Newburgh Bay
+the 25th, arrived at Stony Point October 1st, reached
+Sandy Hook the 4th, and returned to Europe.</p>
+<p><a name="p16" id="p16"></a>
+<b>First Description of the Hudson.</b>&mdash;The official record
+of the voyage was kept by Robert Juet, mate of the "Half
+Moon," and his journal abounds with graphic and pleasing
+incidents as to the people and their customs. At the
+Narrows the Indians visited the vessel, "clothed in
+mantles of feathers and robes of fur, the women clothed
+in hemp; red copper tobacco pipes, and other things of
+copper, they did wear about their necks." At Yonkers
+they came on board in great numbers. Two were detained
+and dressed in red coats, but they sprang overboard
+and swam away. At Catskill they found "a very
+loving people, and very old men. They brought to the
+ship Indian corn, pumpkins and tobaccos." Near Schodack
+the "Master's mate went on land with an old savage,
+governor of the country, who carried him to his house
+and made him good cheere." "I sailed to the shore," he
+writes, "in one of their canoes, with an old man, who
+was chief of a tribe, consisting of forty men and seventeen
+women. These I saw there in a house well constructed
+of oak bark, and circular in shape, so that it
+has the appearance of being built with an arched roof.
+It contained a large quantity of corn and beans of last
+year's growth, and there lay near the house, for the purpose
+of drying, enough to load three ships, besides what
+was growing in the fields. On our coming to the house
+two mats were spread out to sit upon, and some food
+was immediately served in well-made wooden bowls."</p>
+<p>
+"Two men were also dispatched at once, with bows
+and arrows in quest of game, who soon brought in a
+pair of pigeons, which they had shot. They likewise<a name="page17" id="page17"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;17]</span>
+killed a fat dog, (probably a black bear), and skinned
+it in great haste, with shells which they had got out
+of the water."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Down whose waterways the wings of poetry and romance</p>
+<p>like magic sails bear the awakened souls of men.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>Richard Burton.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The well-known hospitality of the Hudson River valley
+has, therefore, "high antiquity" in this record of the
+garrulous writer. At Albany the Indians flocked to the
+vessel, and Hudson determined to try the chiefs to see
+"whether they had any treachery in them." "So they
+took them down into the cabin, and gave them so much
+wine and <i>aqua vitae</i> that they were all merry. In the
+end one of them was drunk, and they could not tell how
+to take it." The old chief, who took the <i>aqua vitae</i>, was
+so grateful when he awoke the next day, that he showed
+them all the country, and gave them venison.</p>
+<p>
+Passing down through the Highlands the "Half Moon"
+was becalmed near Stony Point and the "people of the
+Mountains" came on board and marvelled at the ship
+and its equipment. One canoe kept hanging under the
+stern and an Indian pilfered a pillow and two shirts
+from the cabin windows. The mate shot him in the breast
+and killed him. A boat was lowered to recover the
+articles "when one of them in the water seized hold
+of it to overthrow it, but the cook seized a sword and
+cut off one of his hands and he was drowned." At the
+head of Manhattan Island the vessel was again attacked.
+Arrows were shot and two more Indians were killed, then
+the attack was renewed and two more were slain.</p>
+<p>
+It might also be stated that soon after the arrival of
+Hendrick Hudson at the mouth of the river one of the
+English soldiers, John Coleman, was killed by an arrow
+shot in the throat. "He was buried," according to Ruttenber,
+"upon the adjacent beach, the first European
+victim of an Indian weapon on the Mahicanituk. Coleman's
+point is the monument to this occurrence."</p>
+<p>
+The "Half Moon" never returned and it will be remembered
+that Hudson never again saw the river that he
+discovered. He was to leave his name however as a<a name="page18" id="page18"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;18]</span>
+monument to further adventure and hardihood in Hudson's
+Bay, where he was cruelly set adrift by a mutinous
+crew in a little boat to perish in the midsummer of 1611.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The sea just peering the headlands through</p>
+<p>Where the sky is lost in deeper blue.</p>
+</div>
+ <div class="stanza">                   
+<p class="i32"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p18" id="p18"></a>
+<b>Names of the Hudson.</b>&mdash;The Iroquois called the river
+the "Cohatatea." The Mahicans and Lenapes the "Mahicanituk,"
+or "the ever-flowing waters." Verrazano in
+1524 styled it Rio de Montaigne. Gomez in 1525 Rio San
+Antonio. Hudson styled it the "Manhattes" from the
+tribe at its mouth. The Dutch named it the "Mauritius,"
+in 1611, in honor of Prince Maurice of Nassau, and
+afterwards "the Great River." It has also been referred
+to as the "Shatemuck" in verse. It was called "Hudson's
+River" not by the Dutch, as generally stated, but
+by the English, as Hudson was an Englishman, although
+he sailed from a Dutch port, with a Dutch crew, and
+a Dutch vessel. It was also called the "North River,"
+to distinguish it from the Delaware, the South River.
+It is still frequently so styled, and the East River almost
+"boxes the compass" as applied to Long Island Sound.</p>
+<p><a name="p19-1" id="p19-1"></a>
+<b>Height of Hills and Mountains.</b>&mdash;It is interesting to
+hear the opinions of different people journeying up and
+down the Hudson as to the height of mountains along
+the river. The Palisades are almost always under-estimated,
+probably on account of their distance from the
+steamer. It is only when we consider the size of a house
+at their base, or the mast of a sloop anchored near the
+shore, that we can fairly judge of their magnitude.
+Various guides, put together in a day or a month, by
+writers who have made a single journey, or by persons
+who have never consulted an authority, have gone on
+multiplying blunder upon blunder, but the United States
+Geological Survey furnishes reliable information. According
+to their maps the Palisades are from 300 to 500
+feet in height, the Highlands from 785 to 1625, and the
+Catskills from 3000 to 3885 feet.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Beneath the cliffs the river steals</p>
+    <p class="i2">In darksome eddies to the shore,</p>
+  <p>But midway every sail reveals</p>
+    <p class="i2">Reflected on its crystal floor.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page19" id="page19"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;19]</span>
+
+        <h5>THE PALISADES.</h5>
+		
+		<table width="50%" align="center" border="0" summary="mountain heights">
+<tr>
+       <td class="main" width="80%">At Fort Lee</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;300 feet.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Opposite Mt. St. Vincent</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;400  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Opposite Hastings </td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;500  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+              
+        <h5>THE HIGHLANDS.</h5>
+		<table width="50%" align="center" border="0" summary="mountain heights">
+<tr>
+       <td class="main" width="80%">Sugar Loaf</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;785 feet.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Dunderberg</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;865  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Anthony's Nose</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;900  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Storm King </td>
+       <td class="main">1368  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Old Cro' Nest</td>
+       <td class="main">1405  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Bull Hill</td>
+       <td class="main">1425  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">South Beacon</td>
+       <td class="main">1625  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+                                                     
+        <h5>THE CATSKILLS.</h5>
+
+		<table width="50%" align="center" border="0" summary="mountain heights">
+<tr>
+       <td class="main" width="80%">North Mountain</td>
+       <td class="main">3000 feet.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Plaaterkill</td>
+       <td class="main">3135  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Outlook</td>
+       <td class="main">3150  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Stoppel Point</td>
+       <td class="main">3426  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Round Top</td>
+       <td class="main">3470  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">High Peak</td>
+       <td class="main">3660  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Sugar Loaf</td>
+       <td class="main">3782  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Plateau</td>
+       <td class="main">3855  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+</table><br /><br />
+ <p><a name="p19-2" id="p19-2"></a>                    
+<b>Sources of the Hudson.</b>&mdash;The Hudson rises in the Adirondacks,
+and is formed by two short branches. The
+northern branch (17 miles in length), has its source in
+Indian Pass, at the base of Mount McIntyre; the eastern
+branch, in a little lake poetically called the "Tear of
+the Clouds," 4,321 feet above the sea under the summit
+of Tahawus, the noblest mountain of the Adirondacks,
+5,344 feet in height. About thirty miles below the junction
+it takes the waters of Boreas River, and in the
+southern part of Warren County, nine miles east of
+Lake George, the tribute of the Schroon. About fifteen
+miles north of Saratoga it receives the waters of the
+Sacandaga, then the streams of the Battenkill and the
+Walloomsac; and a short distance above Troy its largest
+tributary, the Mohawk. The tide rises six inches at
+Troy and two feet at Albany, and from Troy to New
+York, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, the river
+is navigable by large steamboats.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Of grottoes in the far dim woods,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Of pools moss-rimmed and deep,</p>
+  <p>From whose embrace the little rills</p>
+    <p class="i2">In daring venture creep.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>E.A. Lente.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page20" id="page20"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;20]</span>
+<p>
+The principal streams which flow into the Hudson between
+Albany and New York are the Norman's Kill, on
+west bank, two miles south of Albany; the Mourdener's
+Kill, at Castleton, eight miles below Albany, on the east
+bank; Coxsackie Creek, on west bank, seventeen miles
+below Albany; Kinderhook Creek, six miles north of Hudson;
+Catskill Creek, six miles south of Hudson; Roeliffe
+Jansen's Creek, on east bank, seven miles south of Hudson;
+the Esopus Creek, which empties at Saugerties; the
+Rondout Creek, at Rondout; the Wappingers, at New
+Hamburgh; the Fishkill, at Matteawan, opposite Newburgh;
+the Peekskill Creek, and Croton River. The course
+of the river is nearly north and south, and drains a
+comparatively narrow valley.</p>
+<p>
+It is emphatically the "River of the Mountains," as it
+rises in the Adirondacks, flows seaward east of the Helderbergs,
+the Catskills, the Shawangunks, through twenty
+miles of the Highlands and along the base of the Palisades.
+More than any other river it preserves the character
+of its origin, and the following apostrophe from
+the writer's poem, "The Hudson," condenses its continuous
+"mountain-and-lake-like" quality:</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>O Hudson, mountain-born and free,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Thy youth a deep impression takes,</p>
+  <p>For, mountain-guarded to the sea,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Thy course is but a chain of lakes.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p20" id="p20"></a>
+<b>The First Settlement of the Hudson.</b>&mdash;In 1610 a Dutch
+ship visited Manhattan to trade with the Indians and
+was soon followed by others on like enterprise. In 1613
+Adrian Block came with a few comrades and remained
+the winter. In 1614 the merchants of North Holland
+organized a company and obtained from the States General
+a charter to trade in the New Netherlands, and
+soon after a colony built a few houses and a fort near
+the Battery. The entire island was purchased from the
+Indians in 1624 for the sum of sixty guilders or about<a name="page21" id="page21"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;21]</span>
+twenty-four dollars. A fort was built at Albany in 1623
+and known as Fort Aurania or Fort Orange. From Wassenaer's
+"Historie van Europa," 1621-1632, as translated
+in the 3d volume of the Documentary History of New
+York, a castle&mdash;Fort Nassau&mdash;was built in 1624, on an
+island on the north side of the River Montagne, now
+called Mauritius. "But as the natives there were somewhat
+discontented, and not easily managed, the projectors
+abandoned it, intending now to plant a colony among the
+Maikans (Mahicans), a nation lying twenty-five miles
+(American measure seventy-five miles) on both sides of
+the river, upwards." <a name="p21" id="p21"></a>In another document we learn that
+"The West India Company being chartered, a vessel of 130
+lasts, called the 'New Netherland' (whereof Cornelius
+Jacobs, of Hoorn, was skipper), with thirty families,
+mostly Walloons, was equipped in the spring of 1623."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Where Manhattan reigned of old</p>
+<p>Long before the age of gold</p>
+<p>In the fair encircled isle</p>
+<p>Formed for beauty's warmest smile.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Crow</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+In the beginning of May they entered the Hudson, found
+a "Frenchman" lying in the mouth of the river, who
+would erect the arms of the King of France there, but
+the Hollanders would not permit him, opposing it by commission
+from the Lord's States General and the Directors
+of the West India Company, and "in order not to be
+frustrated therein, they convoyed the Frenchman out of
+the rivers." This having been done, they sailed up the
+Maikans, 140 miles, near which they built and completed
+a fort, named "Orange," with four bastions, on an island,
+by them called "Castle Island." This was probably the
+island below Castleton, now known as Baern Island, where
+the first white child was born on the Hudson.</p>
+<p>
+In another volume we read that "a colony was planted
+in 1625 on the Manhetes Island, where a fort was staked
+out by Master Kryn Fredericke, an engineer. The counting-house
+is kept in a stone building thatched with reed;
+the other houses are of the bark of trees. There are
+thirty ordinary houses on the east side of the river,
+which runs nearly north and south." This is the description
+of New York City when Charles the First was King.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Behold the natural advantages of our State; the situation</p>
+<p>of our principal seaport; the facility that the  </p>
+<p>Sound affords for an intercourse with the East, and the</p>
+<p>noble Hudson which bears upon its bosom the wealth</p>
+<p>of the remotest part of the State.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Robert R. Livingston.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page22" id="page22"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;22]</span>
+
+
+<p>
+Moreover, we should not forget that Communipaw outranks
+New York in antiquity, and, according to Knickerbocker,
+whose quiet humor is always read and re-read
+with pleasure, might justly be considered the Mother
+Colony. For lo! the sage Oloffe Van Kortlandt dreamed
+a dream, and the good St. Nicholas came riding over
+the tops of the trees, and descended upon the island of
+Manhattan and sat himself down and smoked, "and the
+smoke ascended in the sky, and formed a cloud overhead;
+and Oloffe bethought him, and he hastened and climbed
+up to the top of one of the tallest trees, and saw that
+the smoke spread over a great extent of country; and,
+as he considered it more attentively, he fancied that the
+great volume assumed a variety of marvelous forms,
+where, in dim obscurity, he saw shadowed out palaces
+and domes and lofty spires, all of which lasted but a
+moment, and then passed away." So New York, like
+Alba Longa and Rome, and other cities of antiquity, was<a name="page23" id="page23"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;23]</span>
+under the immediate care of its tutelar saint. Its destiny
+was foreshadowed, for now the palaces and domes and
+lofty spires are real and genuine, and something more
+than dreams are made of.</p>
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/024-786.png"><img src="images/024-500.png" width="500" height="405" alt="OLOFFE VAN KORTLANDT'S DREAM." border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>OLOFFE VAN KORTLANDT'S DREAM.</b></p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Below the cliffs Manhattan's spires</p>
+    <p class="i2">Glint back the sunset's latest beam;</p>
+  <p>The bay is flecked with twinkling fires;</p>
+    <p class="i2">Or is it but "Van Kortlandt's dream?"</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p23-1" id="p23-1"></a>
+<b>The Original Manors and Patents.</b>&mdash;According to a
+map of the Province of New York, published in 1779,
+the Phillipsburg Patent embraced a large part of Westchester
+County. North of this was the Manor of Cortland,
+reaching from Tarrytown to Anthony's Nose. Above
+this was the Phillipse Patent, reaching to the mouth of
+Fishkill Creek, embracing Putnam County. Between Fishkill
+Creek and the Wappingers Creek was the Rombout
+Patent. The Schuyler Patent embraced a few square
+miles in the vicinity of Poughkeepsie. Above this was
+the purchase of Falconer &amp; Company, and east of this
+tract what was known as the Great Nine Partners. Above
+the Falconer Purchase was the Henry Beekman Patent,
+reaching to Esopus Island, and east of this the Little
+Nine Partners. Above the Beekman Patent was the
+Schuyler Patent. Then the Manor of Livingston, reaching
+from Rhinebeck to Catskill Station, opposite Catskill.
+Above this Rensselaerwick, reaching north to a point
+opposite Coeymans. The Manor of Rensselaer extended
+on both sides of the river to a line running nearly east
+and west, just above Troy. North and west of this
+Manor was the County of Albany, since divided into
+Rensselaer, Saratoga, Washington, Schoharie, Greene and
+Albany. The Rensselaer Manor was the only one that
+reached across the river. The west bank of the Hudson,
+below the Rensselaer Manor, is simply indicated on this
+map of 1779 as Ulster and Orange Counties.</p>
+<p><a name="p23-2" id="p23-2"></a>
+<b>New Amsterdam.</b>&mdash;For about fifty years after the
+Dutch Settlement the island of Manhattan was known as
+New Amsterdam. Washington Irving, in his Knickerbocker
+History, has surrounded it with a loving halo and
+thereby given to the early records of New York the
+most picturesque background of any State in the Union.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The city bright below, and far away</p>
+<p>Sparkling in golden light his own romantic Bay.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page24" id="page24"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;24]</span>
+<p>
+Among other playful allusions to the Indian names he
+takes the word Manna-hatta of Robert Juet to mean
+"the island of manna," or in other words a land flowing
+with milk and honey. He refers humorously to the
+Yankees as "an ingenious people who out-bargain them
+in the market, out-speculate them on the exchange, out-top
+them in fortune, and run up mushroom palaces so
+high that the tallest Dutch family mansion has not wind
+enough left for its weather-cock."</p>
+<p>
+What would the old burgomaster think now of the
+mounting palaces of trade, stately apartments, and the
+piled up stories of commercial buildings? In fact the
+highest structure Washington Irving ever saw in New
+York was a nine-story sugar refinery. With elevators
+running two hundred feet a minute, there seems no limit
+to these modern mammoths.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;<a name="p24" id="p24"></a>
+<b>The Dutch and the English.</b>&mdash;From the very beginning
+there was a quiet jealousy between the Dutch Settlement
+on the Hudson and the English Settlers in Massachusetts.
+To quote from an old English history, "it was the original
+purpose of the Pilgrims to locate near Nova Scotia,
+but, upon better consideration, they decided to seat themselves
+more to the southward on the bank of Hudson's
+River which falls into the sea at New York."</p>
+<p>
+To this end "they contracted with some merchants who
+were willing to be adventurers with them in their intended
+settlement and were proprietors of the country, but the
+contract bore too heavy upon them, and made them the
+more easy in their disappointment. Their agents in
+England hired the Mayflower, and, after a stormy voyage,
+'fell in with Cape Cod on the 9th of November. Here
+they refreshed themselves about half a day and then
+tacked about to the southward for Hudson's River.'</p>
+<p>
+"Encountering a storm they became entangled in dangerous
+shoals and breakers and were driven back again
+to the Cape." Thus Plymouth became the first English
+settlement of New England. Another historian says that<a name="page25" id="page25"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;25]</span>
+it was their purpose "to settle on the Connecticut Coast 
+near Fairfield County, lying between the Connecticut and
+Hudson's River."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+          <p class="i8">Before his sight</p>
+  <p>Flowed the fair river free and bright,</p>
+  <p>The rising mist and Isles of Bay,</p>
+  <p>Before him in their glory lay.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+From the very first the Dutch occupation was considered
+by the English as illegal. It was undoubtedly
+part of the country the coasts of which were first viewed
+by Sebastian Cabot, who sailed with five English ships
+from Bristol in May, 1498, and as such was afterwards
+included in the original province of Virginia. It was
+also within the limits of the country granted by King
+James to the Western Company, but, before it could be
+settled, the Dutch occupancy took place, and, in the interest
+of peace, a license was granted by King James.</p>
+<p>
+The Dutch thus made their settlement before the Puritans
+were planted in New England, and from their first
+coming, "being seated in Islands and at the mouth of
+a good river their plantations were in a thriving condition,
+and they begun, in Holland, to promise themselves
+vast things from their new colony."</p>
+<p>
+Sir Samuel Argal in 1617 or 1618, on his way from
+Virginia to New Scotland, insulted the Dutch and destroyed
+their plantations. "To guard against further
+molestations they secured a License from King James to
+build Cottages and to plant for traffic as well as subsistence,
+pretending it was only for the conveniency of
+their ships touching there for fresh water and fresh provisions
+in their voyage to Brazil; but they little by little
+extended their limits every way, built Towns, fortified
+them and became a flourishing colony."</p>
+<p>
+"In an island called Manhattan, at the mouth of Hudson's
+River, they built a City which they called New
+Amsterdam, and the river was called by them the Great
+River. The bay to the east of it had the name of Nassau
+given to it. About one hundred and fifty miles up the River
+they built a Fort which they called Orange Fort and
+from thence drove a profitable trade with the Indians who
+came overland as far as from Quebec to deal with them.</p>
+
+<a name="page26" id="page26"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;26]</span>
+<p>
+The Dutch Colonies were therefore in a very thriving
+condition when they were attacked by the English. The
+justice of this war has been freely criticised even by
+English writers, "because troops were sent to attack New
+Amsterdam before the Colony had any notice of the war."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+                      <p class="i8">On his view</p>
+  <p>Ocean, and earth, and heaven burst before him,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Clouds slumbering at his feet and the clear blue</p>
+  <p>Of summer's sky in beauty bending o'er him.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The "Encyclop&aelig;dia Britannica" thus briefly puts the
+history of those far-off days when New York was a town
+of about 1500 inhabitants: "The English Government
+was hostile to any other occupation of the New World
+than its own. In 1621 James I. claimed sovereignty over
+New Netherland by right of 'occupancy.' In 1632 Charles
+I. reasserted the English title of 'first discovery, occupation
+and possession.' In 1654 Cromwell ordered an expedition
+for its conquest and the New England Colonies
+had engaged their support. The treaty with Holland
+arrested their operations and recognized the title of the
+Dutch. In 1664 Charles the Second resolved upon a conquest
+of New Netherland. The immediate excuse was
+the loss to the revenue of the English Colonies by the
+smuggling practices of their Dutch neighbors. A patent
+was granted to the Duke of York giving to him all the
+lands and rivers from the west side of the Connecticut
+River to the east side of Delaware Bay."</p>
+<p>
+"On the 29th of August an English Squadron under
+the direction of Col. Richard Nicolls, the Duke's Deputy
+Governor, appeared off the Narrows, and on Sept. 8th
+New Amsterdam, defenseless against the force, was
+formally surrendered by Stuyvesant. In 1673 (August
+7th) war being declared between England and Holland
+a Dutch squadron surprised New York, captured the
+City and restored the Dutch authority, and the names of
+New Netherland and New Amsterdam. But in July,
+1674, a treaty of peace restored New York to English
+rule. A new patent was issued to the Duke of York,
+and Major Edmund Andros was appointed Governor."</p>
+<p>
+<b>New York.</b>&mdash;On the 10th of November, 1674, the Province<a name="page27" id="page27"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;27]</span>
+of New Netherland was surrendered to Governor
+Major Edmund Andros on behalf of his Britannic Majesty.
+The letter sent by Governor Andros to the Dutch
+Governor is interesting in this connection: "Being arrived
+to this place with orders to receive from you in the
+behalf of his Majesty of Great Britain, pursuant to the
+late articles of peace with the States Generals of the
+United Netherlands, the New Netherlands and Dependencies,
+now under your command, I have herewith, by Capt.
+Philip Carterett and Ens. C&aelig;sar Knafton, sent you the
+respective orders from the said States General, the States
+of Zealand and Admirality of Amsterdam to that effect,
+and desire you'll please to appoint some short time for
+it. Our soldiers having been long aboard, I pray you
+answer by these gentlemen, and I shall be ready to serve
+you in what may lay in my power. Being from aboard
+his Majesty's ship, 'The Diamond,' at anchor near. Your
+very humble servant. Staten Island this 22d Oct., 1674."
+After nineteen days' deliberation, which greatly annoyed
+Governor Andros, New Amsterdam was transferred from
+Dutch to English authority.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>All white with sails thy keel-thronged waters flee</p>
+<p>Through one rich lapse of plenty to the sea.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Knickerbocker Magazine.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"In 1683 Thomas Dongan succeeded Andros. A general
+Assembly, the first under the English rule, met in
+October, 1683, and adopted a Charter of Liberties, which
+was confirmed by the Duke. In August, 1684, a new
+covenant was made with the Iroquois, who formally acknowledged
+the jurisdiction of Great Britain, but not
+subjection. By the accession of the Duke of York to the
+English throne the Duchy of New York became a royal
+province. The Charters of the New England Colonies
+were revoked, and together with New York and New
+Jersey they were consolidated into the dominion of New
+England. Dongan was recalled and Sir Edmund Andros
+was commissioned Governor General. He assumed his
+vice regal authority August 11, 1688. The Assembly
+which James had abolished in 1686 was reestablished, and
+in May declared the rights and privileges of the people,<a name="page28" id="page28"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;28]</span>
+reaffirming the principles of the repealed Charter of
+Liberties of October 30, 1683."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"Queen of all lovely rivers, lustrous queen</p>
+<p>Of flowing waters in our sweet new lands,</p>
+<p>Rippling through sunlight to the ocean sands."</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Anonymous.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+From this time on to the Revolution of 1776 there is
+one continual struggle between the Royal Governors and
+the General Assembly. The Governor General had the
+power of dissolving the Assembly, but the Assembly had
+the power of granting money. British troops were quartered
+in New York which increased the irritation. The
+conquest of Canada left a heavy burden upon Great
+Britain, a part of which their Parliament attempted to
+shift to the shoulders of the Colonies.</p>
+<p>
+A general Congress of the Colonies, held in New York
+in 1765, protested against the Stamp Act and other
+oppressive ordinances and they were in part repealed.</p>
+<p><a name="p28-1" id="p28-1"></a>
+<b>A Page of Patriotism.</b>&mdash;During the long political agitation
+New York, the most English of the Colonies in her
+manners and feelings, was in close harmony with the
+Whig leaders of England. She firmly adhered to the
+principle of the sovereignty of the people which she had
+inscribed on her ancient "Charter of Liberties." Although
+largely dependent upon commerce she was the
+first to recommend a non-importation of English merchandise
+as a measure of retaliation against Britain, and
+she was the first also to invite a general congress of all
+the Colonies. On the breaking out of hostilities New
+York immediately joined the patriot cause. The English
+authority was overthrown and the government passed to
+a provincial congress.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The union of lakes&mdash;the union of lands&mdash;</p>
+    <p class="i2">The union of States none can sever&mdash;</p>
+  <p>The union of hearts&mdash;the union of hands&mdash;</p>
+    <p class="i2">And the Flag of our Union forever.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>George P. Morris.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p28-2" id="p28-2"></a>
+<b>New York Sons of Liberty.</b>&mdash;In 1767, in the eighth year
+of the reign of George III. there was issued a document
+in straightforward Saxon, and Sir Henry Moore, Governor-in-Chief
+over the Province of New York, offered fifty
+pounds to discover the author or authors. The paper
+read as follows: "Whereas, a glorious stand for Liberty
+did appear in the Resentment shown to a Set of Miscreants
+under the Name of Stamp Masters, in the year
+1765, and it is now feared that a set of Gentry called<a name="page29" id="page29"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;29]</span>
+Commissioners (I do not mean those lately arrived at
+Boston), whose odious Business is of a similar nature,
+may soon make their appearance amongst us in order to
+execute their detestable office: It is therefore hoped that
+every votary of that celestial Goddess Liberty, will hold
+themselves in readiness to give them a proper welcome.
+Rouse, my Countrymen, Rouse! (Signed) <i>Pro Patria</i>."</p>
+<p>
+In December, 1769, a stirring address "To the Betrayed
+Inhabitants of the City and County of New York," signed
+by a Son of Liberty, was also published, asking the people
+to do their duty in matters pending between them and
+Britain. "Imitate," the writer said, "the noble examples
+of the friends of Liberty in England; who, rather than
+be enslaved, contend for their rights with king, lords and
+commons; and will you suffer your liberties to be torn
+from you by your Representatives? tell it not in Boston;
+publish it not in the streets of Charles-town. You have
+means yet left to preserve a unanimity with the brave
+Bostonians and Carolinians; and to prevent the accomplishment
+of the designs of tyrants."</p>
+<p>
+Another proclamation, offering a reward of fifty pounds,
+was published by the "Honorable Cadwalader Colden,
+Esquire, His Majesty's Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-Chief
+of the Province of New York and the
+territories depending thereon in America," with another
+"God Save the King" at the end of it. But the people
+who commenced to write Liberty with a capital letter
+and the word "king" in lower case type were not
+daunted. Captain Alexander McDougal was arrested as
+the supposed author. He was imprisoned eighty-one days.
+He was subsequently a member of the Provincial Convention,
+in 1775 was appointed Colonel of the first New
+York Regiment, and in 1777 rose to the rank of Major-General
+in the U. S. Army. New York City could well
+afford a monument to the Sons of Liberty. She has a
+right to emphasize this period of her history, for her
+citizens passed the first resolution to import nothing from<a name="page30" id="page30"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;30]</span>
+the mother country, burned ten boxes of stamps sent
+from England before any other colony or city had made
+even a show of resistance, and when the Declaration was
+read, pulled down the leaden statue of George III. from
+its pedestal in Bowling Green, and moulded it into Republican
+bullets.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>And not a verdant glade or mountain hoary,</p>
+<p>But treasures up within the glorious story.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+In 1699 the population of New York was about 6,000.
+In 1800, it reached 60,000; and the growth since that
+date is almost incredible. It is amusing to hear elderly
+people speak of the "outskirts of the city" lying close
+to the City Hall, and of the drives <i>in the country</i> above
+Canal Street. In the Documentary History of New York,
+a map of a section of New York appears as it was in
+1793, when the Gail, Work House, and Bridewell occupied
+the site of the City Hall, with two ponds to the
+north&mdash;East Collect Pond and Little Collect Pond,&mdash;sixty
+feet deep and about a quarter of a mile in diameter,
+the outlet of which crossed Broadway at Canal Street
+and found its way to the Hudson.</p>
+<p><a name="p30" id="p30"></a>
+<b>Greater New York.</b>&mdash;In 1830, the population of Manhattan
+was 202,000; in 1850, 515,000; in 1860, 805,000;
+in 1870, 942,000; in 1880, 1,250,000; in 1892, 1,801,739;
+and is now rapidly approaching three million. Brooklyn,
+which in 1800 had a population of only 2,000, now contributes,
+as the "Borough of Brooklyn," almost two million.
+So that Greater New York is the centre of about
+six million of people within a radius of fifteen miles
+including her New Jersey suburbs with almost five millions
+under one municipality.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Brooklyn.</b>&mdash;In June, 1636, was bought the first land
+on Long Island; and in 1667 the Ferry Town, opposite
+New York, was known by the name "Breuckelen," signifying
+"broken land," but the name was not generally
+accepted until after the Revolution. Columbia Heights,
+Prospect Park, Clinton Avenue, St. Mark's Place and
+Stuyvesant Heights are among the favored spots for
+residence.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Behind us lies the teeming town</p>
+    <p class="i2">With lust of gold grown frantic;</p>
+  <p>Before us glitters o'er the bay</p>
+    <p class="i2">The peaceable Atlantic.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Charles Mackay</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page31" id="page31"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;31]</span>
+<p>
+<b>Jersey City</b> occupies the ground once known as Paulus
+Hook, the farm of William Kieft, Director General of
+the Dutch West India Company. Its water front, from
+opposite Bartholdi Statue to Hoboken, is conspicuously
+marked by Railroad Terminal Piers, Factories, Elevators,
+etc. Bergen is the oldest settlement in New Jersey. It
+was founded in 1616 by Dutch Colonists to the New
+Netherlands, and received its name from Bergen in Norway.
+Jersey City is practically a part of Greater New
+York, but state lines make municipal union impossible.</p>
+<p><a name="p31" id="p31"></a>
+<b>Hudson River Steamboats.</b>&mdash;An accurate history of the
+growth and development of steam navigation on the
+Hudson, from the building of the "Clermont" by Robert
+Fulton to the building of the superb steamers of the
+Hudson River Day Line would form a very interesting
+book. The first six years produced six steamers:</p>
+
+
+<table width="50%" align="center" border="0" summary="tonnage">
+<tr>
+       <td class="main" width="80%">Clermont, built in 1807</td>
+       <td class="main">160 tons</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Car of Neptune, built in 1809</td>
+       <td class="main">295  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Hope, built in 1811</td>
+       <td class="main">280  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Perseverance, built in 1811</td>
+       <td class="main">280  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Paragon, built in 1811</td>
+       <td class="main">331  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">Richmond, built in 1813</td>
+       <td class="main">370  &nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+         
+<p>
+It makes one smile to read the newspaper notices of
+those days. The time was rather long, and the fare
+rather high&mdash;thirty-six hours to Albany, fare seven
+dollars.</p><br />
+
+
+<h4><i>From the Albany Gazette, September, 1807.</i></h4>
+<blockquote><p>
+"The North River Steamboat will leave Paulus Hook
+Ferry on Friday the 4th of September, at 9 in the morning,
+and arrive at Albany at 9 in the afternoon on Saturday.
+Provisions, good berths, and accommodation are provided.
+The charge to each passenger is as follows:</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+
+<a name="page32" id="page32"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;32]</span>
+
+<table width="60%" align="center" border="0" summary="tonnage">
+<tr>
+       <td class="main" width="5%">To</td>
+	   <td class="main" width="40%">Newburg</td>
+       <td class="main" width="25%">Dols. 3,</td>
+       <td class="main" width="30%">Time 14 hours.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;</td>
+       <td class="main">Poughkeepsie</td>
+       <td class="main">"   &nbsp;&nbsp;4,</td>
+       <td class="main"> "  &nbsp;&nbsp;17&nbsp;&nbsp;  "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;</td>
+       <td class="main">Esopus</td>
+       <td class="main">"   &nbsp;&nbsp;5,</td>
+	   <td class="main">"  &nbsp;&nbsp;20&nbsp;&nbsp;  "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;</td>
+       <td class="main">Hudson</td>
+       <td class="main">"   &nbsp;&nbsp;5 &frac12;,</td>
+	   <td class="main">"  &nbsp;&nbsp;30&nbsp;&nbsp;  "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;</td>
+       <td class="main">Albany</td>
+       <td class="main">"   &nbsp;&nbsp;7,</td>
+	   <td class="main">"  &nbsp;&nbsp;36&nbsp;&nbsp;  "</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<blockquote><p>
+For places apply to Wm. Vandervoort, No. 48 Courtland
+street, on the corner of Greenwich street, September
+2d, 1807."</p>
+</blockquote><br />
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The wind blew over the land and the waves  </p>
+    <p class="i2">With its salt sea-breath, and a spicy balm,  </p>
+  <p>And it seemed to cool my throbbing brain,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And lend my spirit its gusty calm.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Richard Henry Stoddard.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div><br />
+<hr class="short" />
+
+
+<h4><i>Extract from the New York Evening Post, October 2, 1807.</i></h4>
+<blockquote><p>
+Mr. Fulton's new-invented steamboat, which is fitted up
+in a neat style for passengers, and is intended to run
+from New York to Albany as a packet, left here this
+morning with ninety passengers, against a strong head
+wind. Notwithstanding which, it is judged that she
+moved through the waters at the rate of six miles an
+hour.</p>
+</blockquote><br />
+
+
+<h4><i>Extract from the Albany Gazette, October 5th, 1807.</i></h4>
+<blockquote><p>
+Friday, October 2d, 1807, the steamboat (Clermont)
+left New York at ten o'clock a.m., against a stormy tide,
+very rough water, and a violent gale from the north.
+She made a headway beyond the most sanguine expectations,
+and without being rocked by the waves.</p>
+<p>
+Arrived at Albany, October 4th, at 10 o'clock p.m.,
+being detained by being obliged to come to anchor, owing
+to a gale and having one of her paddle wheels torn away
+by running foul of a sloop.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>But see! the broadening river deeper flows,</p>
+<p>Its tribute floods intent to reach the sea.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Park Benjamin.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<br /><br />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/map_header-1000.png"><img src="images/map_header-338.png" width="338" height="450" alt="map header" border="0" /></a>
+</p>
+
+<table align="center" summary="maps" border="0">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>Page</td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a class="contents" href="#map1">Map of the Hudson River from New York to Croton.</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#map1">40</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a class="contents" href="#map2">Map of the Hudson River from Croton to Hyde Park.</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#map2">75</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a class="contents" href="#map3">Map of the Hudson River from Hyde Park to Cocksackie.</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#map3">130</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a class="contents" href="#map4">Map of Hudson River from Cocksackie to Laningsburgh.</a></td>
+<td class="right"><a href="#map4">177</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+The following was recently recopied in the <i><b>Poughkeepsie
+Eagle</b></i>, as an old time reminiscence:</p>
+
+
+<h4>To Poughkeepsie from New York in Seventeen Hours.</h4>
+<blockquote><p>
+&mdash;The first steamboat on the Hudson River passed Poughkeepsie
+August 17th, 1807, and in June, 1808, the owners
+of the boat caused the following advertisement to be
+published in prominent papers along the river:</p>
+</blockquote><br />
+
+
+
+<a name="page33" id="page33"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;33]</span>
+
+
+<h2>STEAMBOAT.</h2>
+
+<h4>FOR THE INFORMATION OF THE PUBLIC.</h4>
+<table width="55%" align="center" summary="timetable">
+<tr>
+    <td class="main">
+<blockquote><p>
+The Steamboat will leave New York for Albany every
+Saturday afternoon exactly at 6 o'clock, and will pass:</p></blockquote>
+
+
+<blockquote class="note"><p>
+      West Point, about 4 o'clock Sunday morning.<br />
+      Newburgh, 7 o'clock Sunday morning.<br />
+      Poughkeepsie, 11 o'clock Sunday morning.<br />
+      Esopus, 2 o'clock in the afternoon.<br />
+      Red Hook, 4 o'clock in the afternoon.<br />
+      Catskill, 7 o'clock in the afternoon.<br />
+      Hudson, 8 o'clock in the evening.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote><p>
+She will leave Albany for New York every Wednesday
+morning exactly at 8 o'clock, and pass:</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote class="note"><p>
+      Hudson, about 3 in the afternoon.<br />
+      Esopus, 8 in the evening.<br />
+      Poughkeepsie, 12 at night.<br />
+      Newburgh, 4 Thursday morning.<br />
+      West Point, 7 Thursday morning.</p>
+</blockquote>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<blockquote><p>
+As the time at which the boat may arrive at the different
+places above mentioned may vary an hour, more
+or less, according to the advantage or disadvantage of
+wind and tide, those who wish to come on board will see
+the necessity of being on the spot an hour before the
+time. Persons wishing to come on board from any other
+landing than these here specified can calculate the time
+the boat will pass and be ready on her arrival. Innkeepers
+or boatmen who bring passengers on board or
+take them ashore from any part of the river will be
+allowed one shilling for each person.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+
+    <h4>PRICES OF PASSAGE&mdash;FROM NEW YORK.</h4>
+	
+	<table width="40%" align="center" border="0" summary="mountain heights">
+<tr>
+       <td class="main" width="80%">To West Point</td>
+       <td class="main">$2 30</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Newburgh</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;3 00</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Poughkeepsie</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;3 50</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Esopus</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;4 00</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Red Hook</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;4 50</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Hudson</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;5 00</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Albany</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;7 00</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<a name="page34" id="page34"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;34]</span>
+
+
+          <h4>FROM ALBANY.</h4>
+		  
+		  <table width="40%" align="center" border="0" summary="mountain heights">
+<tr>
+       <td class="main" width="80%">To Hudson</td>
+       <td class="main">$2 00</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Red Hook</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;3 00</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Esopus</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;3 50</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Poughkeepsie</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;4 00</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To Newburgh and West Point</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;4 50</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+       <td class="main">To New York</td>
+       <td class="main">&nbsp;&nbsp;7 00</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<blockquote><p>
+All other passengers are to pay at the rate of one
+dollar for every twenty miles, and a half dollar for every
+meal they may eat.</p>
+<p>
+Children from 1 to 5 years of age to pay one-third
+price and to sleep with persons under whose care they
+are.</p>
+<p>
+Young persons from 5 to 15 years of age to pay half
+price, provided they sleep two in a berth, and the whole
+price for each one who requests to occupy a whole berth.</p>
+<p>
+Servants who pay two-thirds price are entitled to a
+berth; they pay half price if they do not have a berth.</p>
+<p>
+Every person paying full price is allowed sixty pounds
+of baggage; if less than full price forty pounds. They
+are to pay at the rate of three cents per pound for surplus
+baggage. Storekeepers who wish to carry light and
+valuable merchandise can be accommodated on paying
+three cents a pound.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise</p>
+    <p class="i2">At every turn the vision looks upon;</p>
+  <p>Till to our wondering and uplifted eyes</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div><hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p34" id="p34"></a>
+<b>Day Line Steamers.</b>&mdash;As the cradle of successful steam
+navigation was rocked on the Hudson, it is fitting that
+the Day Line Steamers should excel all others in beauty,
+grace and speed. There is no comparison between these
+river palaces and the steamboats on the Rhine or any
+river in Europe, as to equipment, comfort and rapidity.
+To make another reference to the great tourist route of
+Europe, the distance from Cologne to Coblenz is 60 miles,
+the same as from New York to Newburgh. It takes
+the Rhine steamers from seven to eight hours (as will
+be seen in Baedeker's Guide to that river) going up the
+stream, and from four and a half to five hours returning<a name="page35" id="page35"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;35]</span>
+with the current. The Hudson by Daylight steamers en
+route to Albany make the run from New York to Newburgh
+in three hours; to Poughkeepsie in four hours,
+making stops at Yonkers, West Point and Newburgh. 
+Probably no train on the best equipped railroad in our
+country reaches its stations with greater regularity than
+these steamers make their various landing. It astonishes
+a Mississippi or Missouri traveler to see the captain standing
+like a train-conductor, with watch in hand, to let off
+the gang-plank and pull the bell, at the very moment of
+the advertised schedule.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Southward the river gleams&mdash;a snowy sail</p>
+    <p class="i2">Now gliding o'er the mirror&mdash;now a track</p>
+  <p>Tossing with foam displaying on its course</p>
+    <p class="i2">The graceful steamer with its flag of smoke.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+One of the most humorous incidents of the writer's
+journeying up and down the Hudson, was the "John-Gilpin-experience"
+of a western man who got off at West
+Point a few years ago. It was at that time the first
+landing of the steamer after leaving New York.</p>
+<p>
+As he was accustomed to the Mississippi style of waiting
+at the various towns he thought he would go up and
+take a look at the "hill." The boat was off and "so
+was he"; with wife and children shaking their hands
+and handkerchiefs in an excited manner from the gang-plank.
+Some one at the stern of the steamer shouted
+to him to cross the river and take the train to Poughkeepsie.</p>
+<p>
+Every one was on the lookout for him at the Poughkeepsie
+landing, and, just as the steamer was leaving
+the dock, he came dashing down Main street from the
+railroad station, but too late. Then not only wife and
+children but the entire boat saluted him and the crowded
+deck blossomed with handkerchiefs. Some one shouted
+"catch us at Rhinebeck." After leaving Rhinebeck the
+train appeared, and on passing the steamer, a lone handkerchief
+waved from the rear of the platform. At Hudson
+an excited but slightly disorganized gentleman appeared
+to the great delight of his family, and every one else,
+for the passengers had all taken a lively interest in
+the chase. "Well," he says, "I declare, the way this<a name="page36" id="page36"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;36]</span>
+boat lands, and gets off again, beats anything I ever
+see, and I have lived on the Mississippi nigh on to a
+quarter of a century."</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>While drinking in the scene, my mind goes back upon </p>
+<p>the tide of years, and lo, a vision! On its upward</p>
+<p>path the "Half-Moon" glides.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>The "Hendrick Hudson."</b> In these centennial days of
+discovery and invention, a description of the steamers
+will be of interest, furnished by the Hudson River Day
+Line. The "Hendrick Hudson" was built at Newburgh
+by the Marvel Company, under contract with the W. &amp; A.
+Fletcher Company of New York, who built her engines,
+and under designs from Frank E. Kirby. Her principal
+dimensions are: length, 400 feet; breadth over all, 82
+feet; depth of hold, 14 feet 5 inches, and a draft of 7
+feet 6 inches. Her propelling machinery is what is known
+as the 3-cylinder compound direct acting engine, and
+her power (6,500-horse) is applied through side wheels
+with feathering buckets, and steam is supplied from eight
+boilers.</p>
+<p>
+Steel has been used in her construction to such an
+extent that her hull, her bulk-heads (7 in all), her engine
+and boiler enclosures, her kitchen and ventilators, her
+stanchions, girders, and deck beams, and in fact the whole
+essential frame work of the boat is like a great steel
+building. Where wood is used it is hard wood, and in
+finish probably has no equal in marine work.</p>
+<p>
+Her scheme of decoration, ventilation and sanitation
+is as artistic and scientific as modern methods can produce,
+and at the same time her general lay out for practical
+and comfortable operation is the evolution of the
+long number of years in which the Day Line has been
+conducting the passenger business.</p>
+<p>
+A detailed account of this steamer would be a long
+story, but some of the salient features are as follows:
+She carries the largest passenger license ever issued,
+namely: for 5,000 people; on her trial trip she made the
+fastest record through the water of any inland passenger
+ship in this country, namely: 23.1 miles per hour. Her
+shafts are under the main deck. Her mural paintings<a name="page37" id="page37"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;37]</span>
+represent prominent features of the Hudson, which may
+not be well seen from the steamer. Her equipment far
+exceeds the requirements of the Government Inspection
+Laws.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>We hear the murmur of the sea,&mdash;</p>
+  <p class="i2">A monotone of sadness,</p>
+<p>But not a whisper of the crowd,</p>
+  <p class="i2">Or echo of its madness.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Charles Mackay.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>The "New York."</b> The hull of the "New York" was
+built at Wilmington, Del., by the Harlan &amp; Hollingsworth
+Co., in 1887, and is, with the exception of the deck-frame,
+made of iron throughout. During the winter of 1897 she
+was lengthened 30 feet, and now measures 341 feet in
+length, breadth over all 74 feet, with a tonnage of 1975
+gross tons. The engine was built by the W. &amp; A. Fletcher
+Co. of New York. It is a standard American beam
+engine, with a cylinder 75 inches in diameter and 12 feet
+stroke of piston, and develops 3,850 horse power. Steam
+steering gear is used. One of the most admirable features
+of this queen of river steamers is her "feathering"
+wheels, the use of which not only adds materially to her
+speed but does away with the jar or tremor common to
+boats having the ordinary paddle-wheels. The exterior
+of the "New York" is, as usual, of pine, painted white
+and relieved with tints and gold. The interior is finished
+in hard-wood cabinet work, ash being used forward of
+the shaft on the main deck, and mahogany aft and in
+the dining-room. Ash is also used in the grand saloons
+on the promenade deck. One feature of these saloons
+especially worthy of note, is the number and size of the
+windows, which are so numerous as to almost form one
+continuous window. Seated in one of these elegant saloons
+as in a floating palace of glass, the tourist who prefers
+to remain inside enjoys equally with those outside the
+unrivalled scenery through which the steamer is passing.
+The private parlors on the "New York" are provided
+with bay windows and are very luxuriantly furnished.
+In the saloons are paintings by Albert Bierstadt, J. F.
+Cropsey, Walter Satterlee and David Johnson. The
+dining-room on the "New York" is located on the main
+deck, aft; a feature that will commend itself to tourists,<a name="page38" id="page38"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;38]</span>
+since while enjoying their meals they will not be deprived
+from viewing the noble scenery through which the steamer
+is passing. While the carrying capacity of the "New 
+York" is 4,500 passengers, license for 2,500 only is applied
+for, thus guaranteeing ample room for all and the
+absence from crowding which is so essential to comfort.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Thy fate and mine are not repose,</p>
+<p>And ere another evening close </p>
+<p>Thou to thy tides shall turn again</p>
+<p>And I to seek the crowd of men.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Cullen Byrant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>The "Albany"</b> was built by the Harlan &amp; Hollingsworth
+Co., of Wilmington, Del., in 1880. During the
+winter of 1892, she was lengthened thirty feet and furnished
+with modern feathering wheels in place of the
+old style radial ones. Her hull is of iron, 325 feet long,
+breadth of beam over all 75 feet, and her tonnage is
+1,415 gross tons. Her engine was built by the W. &amp; A.
+Fletcher Co., of New York, and develops 3,200 horse
+power. The stroke is 12 feet, and the diameter of the
+cylinder is 73 inches. On her trial trip she ran from
+New York to Poughkeepsie, a distance of 75 miles, in
+three hours and seven minutes. Steam steering gear is
+used on the "Albany," thus insuring ease and precision
+in handling her. The wood-work on the main deck and
+in the upper saloons is all hard wood; mahogany, ash
+and maple tastefully carved. Wide, easy staircases lead
+to the main saloon and upper decks. Rich Axminster
+carpets cover the floors, and mahogany tables and furniture
+of antique design and elegant finish make up the
+appointments of a handsomely furnished drawing room.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Lose not a memory of the glorious scenes,</p>
+<p>Mountains and palisades, and leaning rocks.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William Wallace.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p38" id="p38"></a>
+<b>The Old Reaches.</b>&mdash;Early navigators divided the Hudson
+into fourteen "reaches" or distances from point to point
+as seen by one sailing up or down the river. In the
+slow days of uncertain sailing vessels these divisions
+meant more than in our time of "propelling steam," but
+they are still of practical and historic interest.</p>
+<p>
+The Great Chip Rock Reach extends from above Weehawken
+about eighteen miles to the boundary line of New
+York and New Jersey&mdash;(near Piermont). The Palisades
+were known by the old Dutch settlers as the "Great
+Chip," and so styled in the Bergen Deed of Purchase,<a name="page39" id="page39"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;39]</span>
+viz, the great chip above Weehawken. The <i>Tappan</i> Reach
+(on the east side of which dwelt the Manhattans, and
+on the west side the Saulrickans and the Tappans),
+extends about seven miles to Teller's Point. The third
+reach to a narrow point called <i>Haverstroo</i>; then comes
+the <i>Seylmaker's</i> Reach, then <i>Crescent</i> Reach; next <i>Hoge's</i>
+Reach, and then <i>Vorsen</i> Reach, which extends to Klinkersberg,
+or Storm King, the northern portal of the Highlands.
+This is succeeded by <i>Fisher's</i> Reach where, on the
+east side once dwelt a race of savages called Pachami.
+"This reach," in the language of De Laet, "extends to
+another narrow pass, where, on the west, is a point of
+land which juts out, covered with sand, opposite a bend
+in the river, on which another nation of savages&mdash;the
+Waoranecks&mdash;have their abode at a place called Esopus.
+Next, another reach, called <i>Claverack</i>; then <i>Backerack;</i>
+next <i>Playsier</i> Reach, and <i>Vaste</i> Reach, as far as Hinnenhock;
+then <i>Hunter's</i> Reach, as far as Kinderhook; and
+Fisher's Hook, near Shad Island, over which, on the east
+side, dwell the Mahicans." If these reaches seem valueless
+at present there are</p>
+<p><a name="p39" id="p39"></a>
+<b>Five Divisions of the Hudson</b>&mdash;which possess interest
+for all, as they present an analysis easy to be remembered&mdash;divisions
+marked by something more substantial
+than sentiment or fancy, expressing five distinct characteristics:&mdash;</p>
+
+<ol><li>
+ <b><span class="sc">The Palisades</span></b>, an unbroken wall of rock for fifteen
+miles&mdash;<b><span class="sc">Grandeur</span></b>.</li>
+<li>
+ <b><span class="sc">The Tappan Zee</span></b>, surrounded by the sloping hills of
+Nyack, Tarrytown, and Sleepy Hollow&mdash;<b><span class="sc">Repose</span></b>.</li>
+<li>
+ <b><span class="sc">The Highlands</span></b>, where the Hudson for twenty miles
+plays "hide and seek" with "hills rock-ribbed and ancient
+as the sun"&mdash;<b><span class="sc">Sublimity</span></b>.</li>
+<li>
+ <b><span class="sc">The Hillsides</span></b> for miles above and below Poughkeepsie&mdash;<b><span class="sc">The
+Picturesque</span></b>.</li>
+<li>
+ <b><span class="sc">The Catskills</span></b>, on the west, throned in queenly
+dignity&mdash;<b><span class="sc">Beauty</span></b>.</li>
+</ol>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+                <p class="i16">On the deck</p>
+  <p>Stands the bold Hudson, gazing at the sights</p>
+  <p>Opening successive&mdash;point and rock and hill,</p>
+  <p>Majestic mountain-top, and nestling vale.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page40" id="page40"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;40]</span>
+
+<h3>SUGGESTIONS.</h3>
+
+<p>
+From the Hurricane Deck of the Hudson River Day
+Line Steamers can be seen, on leaving or approaching
+the Metropolis, one of the most interesting panoramas
+in the world&mdash;the river life of Manhattan, the massive
+structures of Broadway, the great Transatlantic docks,
+Recreation Piers, and an ever-changing kaleidoscope of
+interest. The view is especially grand on the down trip
+between the hours of five and six in the afternoon, as
+the western sun brings the city in strong relief against
+the sky. If tourists wish to fully enjoy this beautiful
+view they should remain on the Hurricane Deck until
+the boat is well into her Desbrosses Street slip.</p>
+<p style="margin-bottom: -0.5em;">
+<b>The Brooklyn Annex.</b>&mdash;The Brooklyn tourist is especially
+happy in this delightful preface and addenda to
+the Hudson River trip. The effect of morning and evening
+light in bringing out or in subduing the sky-line of
+Manhattan is nowhere seen to greater advantage. In the
+morning the buildings from the East River side stand
+out bold and clear, when lo! almost instantaneously, on
+turning the Battery, they are lessened and subdued. On
+the return trip in the evening, the effect is reversed&mdash;a
+study worth the while of the traveler as he passes to
+and fro on the commodious "Annex" between Desbrosses
+Street Pier and Brooklyn. Surely no other city in the
+world rises so beautiful from harbor line or water front
+as "Greater New York," with lofty outlines of the boroughs
+of Manhattan and Brooklyn reminding one of
+Scott's tribute to Edinburgh:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>"Piled deep and massy, close and high,</p>
+  <p>Mine own romantic town!"</p>
+  </div>
+  </div>
+  <br />
+  <hr class="short" />
+  
+  <div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+    <p class="i2">Down at the end of the long, dark street,</p>
+      <p class="i4">Years, years ago,</p>
+    <p class="i2">I sat with my sweetheart on the pier,</p>
+      <p class="i4">Watching the river flow.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Richard Henry Stoddard.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="map1" id="map1"></a>
+<p class="center"><b>Map of the Hudson River from New York to Croton.</b><br /><br />
+<a href="images/map4ab-1000.png"><img src="images/map4ab-124.png" width="124" height="600" alt="Map of the Hudson River from New York to Croton." border="0" /></a>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="psl" id="psl"></a>
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-041-711.png"><img src="images/illus-041-282.png" width="282" height="450" alt="STATUE OF LIBERTY" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>STATUE OF LIBERTY</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+<a name="page41" id="page41"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;41]</span>
+
+
+<h2>NEW YORK TO ALBANY.</h2>
+<a name="p41-2" id="p41-2"></a>
+<h4>Desbrosses Street Pier to Forty-Second Street.</h4>
+<p>
+Our historic journey fittingly begins at Desbrosses
+Street, for here, near the old River-front, extending from
+Desbrosses along Greenwich, stood the Revolutionary line
+of breastworks reaching south to the Grenadier Battery
+at Franklin Street. Below this were "Jersey," "McDougall"
+and "Oyster" batteries and intervening earthworks
+to Port George, on the Battery, which stood on the
+site of old Fort Amsterdam, carrying us back to Knickerbocker
+memories of Peter Stuyvesant and Wowter Van
+Twiller. The view from the after-deck, before the
+steamer leaves the pier, gives scope for the imagination
+to re-picture the far-away primitive and heroic days of
+early New York.</p>
+<a name="p41-3" id="p41-3"></a>
+<p>
+<b>Desbrosses Street Pier.</b>&mdash;On leaving the lower landing
+a charming view is obtained of New York Harbor, the
+Narrows, Staten Island, the Bartholdi Statue of Liberty,
+and, in clear weather, far away to the South, the Highlands
+of Nevisink, the first land to greet the eye of the
+ocean voyager. As the steamer swings out into the
+stream the tourist is at once face to face with a rapidly
+changing panorama. Steamers arriving, with happy faces
+on their decks, from southern ports or distant lands;
+others with waving handkerchiefs bidding good-bye to
+friends on crowded docks; swift-shuttled ferry-boats, with
+hurrying passengers, supplying their homespun woof to
+the great warp of foreign or coastwise commerce; noisy
+tug-boats, sombre as dray horses, drawing long lines
+of canal boats, or proud in the convoy of some Atlantic
+greyhound that has not yet slipped its leash; dignified<a name="page42" id="page42"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;42]</span>
+"Men of War" at anchor, flying the flags of many
+nations, happy excursion boats <i>en route</i> to sea-side resorts,
+scows, picturesque in their very clumsiness and uncouthness&mdash;all
+unite in a living kaleidescope of beauty.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Rise, stately symbol! Holding forth</p>
+    <p class="i2">Thy light and hope to all who sit</p>
+  <p>In chains and darkness! Belt the earth</p>
+    <p class="i2">With watch-fires from thy torch uplit!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>John Greenleaf Whittier.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Across the river on the Jersey Shore are seen extensive
+docks of great railways, with elevators and stations
+that seem like "knotted ends" of vast railway lines, lest
+they might forsooth, untwist and become irrecoverably
+tangled in approaching the Metropolis. Prominent among
+these are the <i>Pennsylvania Railroad</i> for the South and
+West; the <i>Erie Railway</i>, the <i>Delaware, Lackawanna and
+Western</i>, and to the North above Hoboken the <i>West
+Shore</i>, serving also as starting point for the <i>New York,
+Ontario and Western</i>. Again the eye returns to the
+crowded wharves and warehouses of New York, reaching
+from Castle Garden beyond 30th Street, with forest-like
+masts and funnels of ocean steamships, and then to
+prominent buildings mounting higher and higher year by
+year along the city horizon, marking the course of Broadway
+from the Battery, literally fulfilling the humor of
+Knickerbocker in not leaving space for a breath of air
+for the top of old Trinity Church spire.</p>
+<p><a name="p42" id="p42"></a>
+<b>Stevens' Castle.</b>&mdash;About midway between Desbrosses
+Street and 42d Street Pier will be seen on the Jersey
+Shore a wooded point with sightly building, known
+as Stevens' Castle, home of the late Commodore Stevens,
+founder of the Stevens Institute of Technology. Above
+this are the Elysian Fields, near the river bank, known in
+early days as a quiet resort but now greatly changed in
+the character of its visitors. On the left will also be seen
+the dome and tower of St. Michael's Monastery, and above
+this Union Hill.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Trap Rock Ridge</b>, which begins to show itself
+above the Elysian Fields, increases gradually in height to
+the brow of the Palisades. West of Bergen Heights and
+Union Hill flows the Hackensack River parallel to the
+Hudson, and at this point only about two miles distant.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>How still with all her towers and domes</p>
+    <p class="i2">The city sleeps on yonder shore,&mdash;</p>
+  <p>How many thousand happy homes</p>
+    <p class="i2">Yon starless sky is bending o'er.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Park Benjamin.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page43" id="page43"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;43]</span>
+
+<a name="p43-1" id="p43-1"></a>
+<h4>Forty-Second Street to One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth.</h4>
+<p>
+<b>The 42d Street Pier</b> is now at hand, convenient of
+access to travelers, as the 42d Street car line crosses
+Manhattan intersecting every "up and down" surface,
+subway or elevated road in the City, as does also the
+Grand, Vestry and Desbrosses Street at the lower landing.
+While passengers are coming aboard we take
+pleasure in quoting the following from Baedeker's Guide
+to the United States: "The Photo-Panorama of the
+Hudson, published by the Bryant Union Publishing Co.,
+New York City (price 50 cents), shows both sides of
+the river from New York to Albany, accurately represented
+from 800 consecutive photographs. This new and
+complete object-guide will be of service to the tourist,
+and can be had at the steamers' news stands, head of
+grand stairway, or it will be sent by publishers, postpaid,
+on receipt of price."</p>
+<p><a name="p43-2" id="p43-2"></a>
+<b>Weehawken</b> with its sad story of the duel between
+Hamilton and Burr is soon seen upon the west bank. A
+monument once marked the spot, erected by the St. Andrews
+Society of New York City on the ledge of rock
+where Hamilton fell early in the morning of the eleventh
+of July, 1804. The quarrel between this great statesman
+and his malignant rival was, perhaps, more personal
+than political. It is said that Hamilton, in accordance
+with the old-time code of honor, accepted the challenge,
+but fired into the air, while Burr with fiendish cruelty
+took deliberate revenge. Burr was never forgiven by the
+citizens of New York and from that hour walked its
+streets shunned and despised. Among the many poetic
+tributes penned at the time to the memory of Hamilton,
+perhaps the best was by a poet whose name is now
+scarcely remembered, Mr. Robert C. Sands. A fine picture
+of Hamilton will be found in the New York Chamber
+of Commerce where the writer was recently shown the<a name="page44" id="page44"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;44]</span>
+following concise paragraph from Talleyrand: "The
+three greatest men of my time, in my opinion, were
+Napoleon Bonaparte, Charles James Fox and Alexander
+Hamilton and the greatest of the three was Hamilton."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Where round yon capes the banks ascend</p>
+<p>Long shall the pilgrim's footsteps bend,</p>
+<p>There, mirthful heart shall pause to sigh,</p>
+<p>There tears shall dim the patriot's eye.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The plain marble slab which stood in the face of the
+monument is still preserved by a member of the King
+family. It is thirty-six inches long by twenty-six and
+a half inches wide and bears the following inscription:
+"As an expression of their affectionate regard to his
+Memory and their deep regret for his loss, the St. Andrew's
+Society of the State of New York have erected
+this Monument."</p>
+<p>
+Quite a history attaches to this stone (graphically
+condensed by an old gardener of the King estate): "It
+stood in the face of the monument for sixteen years,
+and was read by thousands, but by 1820 the pillar had
+become an eyesore to the enlightened public sentiment
+of the age, and an agitation was begun in the public
+prints for its removal. It was not, however, organized
+effort, but the order of one man, that at length demolished
+the pillar. This man was Captain Deas, a peace-loving
+gentleman, strongly opposed to duelling and brawls, and
+on seeing a party approaching the grounds often interposed
+and sometimes succeeded in effecting a reconciliation.
+He became tired of seeing the pillar in his daily
+walks, and, in 1820, ordered his men to remove it and
+deposit the slab containing the inscription in one of the
+outbuildings of the estate. This was done. But a few
+months afterward the slab was stolen, and nothing more
+was heard of it until thirteen years later, when Mr.
+Hugh Maxwell, president of the St. Andrew's Society,
+discovered it in a junk shop in New York. He at once
+purchased it and presented it to Mr. James G. King,
+who about this time came into possession of the Deas
+property, where it has since been carefully preserved."</p>
+<p>
+This mansion of Captain Deas afterward known as the
+"King House on the Cliff" was a stately residence where<a name="page45" id="page45"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;45]</span>
+Washington Irving used to come and dream of his fair
+Manhattan across the river. It was also the head-quarters
+of Lafayette, after the battle of Brandywine.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I was an admirer of General Hamilton, and I sicken</p>
+<p>when I think of our political broils, slanders and enmities.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Washington Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The gardener also said: "the river road beneath us
+is cut directly through the spot. Originally it was simply
+a narrow and grassy shelf close up under the cliffs, six
+feet wide and eleven paces long. A great cedar tree stood
+at one end, and this sandbowlder, which we have also
+preserved, was at the other. It was about twenty feet
+above the river and was reached by a steep rocky path
+leading up from the Hudson, and, as there was then
+no road or path even along the base of the cliffs, it
+could be reached only by boats." The first duel at
+Weehawken of which there is any record was in 1799,
+between Aaron Burr and John B. Church (Hamilton's
+brother-in-law). The parties met and exchanged shots;
+neither was wounded. The seconds then induced Church
+to offer an apology and the affair terminated. The last
+duel was fought there September 28, 1845, and ended
+in a farce, the pistols being loaded with cork&mdash;a fitting
+termination to a relic of barbarism.</p>
+<p><a name="p45" id="p45"></a>
+<b>Riverside Drive and Park.</b> Riverside Drive, on the east
+bank starting at 72d Street, is pronounced the finest
+residential avenue in the world. Distinguished among
+many noble residences is the home of Charles M. Schwab
+at 73d Street, which cost two million dollars; built on
+the New York Orphan Asylum plot for which he paid
+$860,000.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Soldiers and Sailors Monument</b>, 89th Street, a
+memorial to the citizens of New York, who took part
+in the Civil War, a beautiful work of art, circular in
+form, with Corinthian columns, erected by the city at
+a cost of a quarter of million of dollars was dedicated
+May 30, 1902. The corner-stone was laid in 1900 by
+President Roosevelt, at that time Governor. The location
+was well selected, and it presents one of the most attractive
+features of the river front.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>We celebrate our hundredth year</p>
+    <p class="i2">With thankful hearts and words of praise,</p>
+  <p>And learn a lasting lesson here</p>
+    <p class="i2">Of trust and hope for coming days.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page46" id="page46"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;46]</span>
+
+<p>
+<b>Columbia University</b>, on Morningside Heights, has a
+fine outlook, crowning a noble site worthy of the old
+college, whose sons have been to the fore since the days
+of the Revolution in promoting the glory of the state
+and the nation. President Low has happily styled "Morningside,"
+which extends from 116th to 120th Streets, "The
+Acropolis of the new world." The Library Building which
+he erected to his father's memory, is of Greek architecture
+and cost $1,500,000. It contains 300,000 volumes and is
+open night and day to the public. It also marks the
+battle ground and American victory of Harlem Heights
+in 1776.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Cathedral of St. John the Divine</b> (Protestant Episcopal),
+now in process of erection, occupies three blocks
+from 110th Street to 113th between Morningside Park
+and Amsterdam Avenue. The corner stone was laid in
+1892 to be completed about 1940 at a cost of $6,000,000.
+The crypt quarried out of the solid rock has been completed
+and services are held in it every Sunday. Near
+at hand will be seen the beautiful dome of St. Luke's
+Hospital.</p>
+<p><a name="p46" id="p46"></a>
+<b>Grant's Tomb</b>, Riverside Drive and 123d Street, has
+the most commanding site of the Hudson River front
+of New York. The bluff rises 130 feet and still retains
+the name of Claremont. The apex of the memorial is
+280 feet above the river. Ninety thousand people contributed
+to the "Grant Monument Association fund"
+which, with interest, aggregated $600,000. The corner
+stone was laid by President Harrison in 1892 and dedicated
+April 27, 1897, on the seventy-fifth anniversary of
+Grant's birth, with a great military, naval and civil
+parade. The occasion was marked by an address of
+President McKinley and an oration of Gen. Horace Porter,
+president of the Grant Monument Association.</p>
+<p>
+An attempt to remove Grant's body to Washington was
+made in Congress but overwhelmingly defeated. The
+speech by Congressman Amos Cummings in the House<a name="page47" id="page47"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;47]</span>
+of Representatives, was a happy condensation of the facts.
+He fittingly said: "New York was General Grant's
+chosen home. He tried many other places but finally
+settled there. A house was given to him here in Washington,
+but he abandoned it in the most marked manner
+to buy one for himself in New York. He was a familiar
+form upon her streets. He presided at her public meetings
+and at all times took an active interest in her local
+affairs. He was perfectly at home there and was charmed
+with its associations. It was the spot on earth chosen
+by himself as the most agreeable to him; he meant to
+live and die there. It was his home when he died. He
+closed his career without ever once expressing a wish
+to leave it, but always to remain in it.</p>
+<p>
+"Men are usually buried at their homes. Washington
+was buried there; Lincoln was buried there; Garibaldi
+was buried there; Gambetta was buried there, and Ericsson
+was buried, not at the Capital of Sweden, but at
+his own home. Those who say that New York is backward
+in giving for any commendable thing either do
+not know her or they belie her. Wherever in the civilized
+world there has been disaster by fire or flood, or from
+earthquake or pestilence, she has been among the foremost
+in the field of givers and has remained there when
+others have departed. It is a shame to speak of her as
+parsimonious or as failing in any benevolent duty. Those
+who charge her with being dilatory should remember that
+haste is not always speed. It took more than a quarter
+of a century to erect Bunker Hill Monument; the ladies
+of Boston completed it. It took nearly half a century
+to erect a monument to George Washington in the City
+founded by him, named for him, and by his act made
+the Capital of the Nation; the Government completed it.
+New York has already shown that she will do far better
+than this."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>His glory as the centuries wide,</p>
+    <p class="i2">His honor bright as sunlit seas,</p>
+  <p>His lullaby the Hudson tide,</p>
+    <p class="i2">His requiem the whispering breeze.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>The Thirteen Elm Trees</b>, about ten or fifteen minutes'
+walk from General Grant's Tomb, were planted by Alexander<a name="page48" id="page48"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;48]</span>
+Hamilton in his door-yard, a century ago, to commemorate
+the thirteen original States. This property
+was purchased by the late Hon. Orlando Potter, of New
+York, with the following touch of patriotic sentiment:
+"These famous trees are located in the northeast corner
+of One Hundred and Forty-third street and Convent Avenue;
+or, on lots fourteen and fifteen," said the auctioneer
+to the crowd that gathered at the sale. "In order that
+the old property with the trees may be kept unbroken,
+should the purchaser desire, we will sell lots 8 to 21
+inclusive in one batch! How much am I offered?" "One
+hundred thousand dollars," quietly responded Mr. Potter.
+A ripple of excitement ran through the crowd, and the
+bid was quickly run up to $120,000 by speculators. "One
+hundred and twenty-five thousand," said Mr. Potter. Then
+there were several thousand dollar bids, and the auctioneer
+said: "Do I hear one hundred and thirty?" Mr.
+Potter nodded. He nodded again at the "thirty-five"
+and "forty" and then some one raised him $250. "Five
+hundred," remarked Mr. Potter, and the bidding was done.
+"Sold for $140,500!" cried the auctioneer. Mr. Potter
+smiled and drew his check for the amount. "I can't say
+what I will do with the property," said Mr. Potter. "You
+can rest assured, however, that the trees will not be cut
+down."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Rest in peace by stately rivers martyred soldiers of the free,</p>
+<p>Rest brave captain, at our threshold, where the Hudson meets the sea.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Edgewater</b>, opposite Grant's Tomb on the west bank,
+lies between Undercliff on the north and Shadyside on
+the south. The latter place was made historic by Anthony
+Wayne's capture of supplies for the American army in
+the summer of 1780 which formed the basis of a satirical
+poem by Major Andre, entitled <b>"The Cow Chase."</b></p>
+<p>
+The steamer is now approaching 129th street, and we
+turn again with pride to the beautiful tomb of General
+Grant which fittingly marks one point of a great triangle
+of fame&mdash;the heroic struggle of the American soldiers
+in 1776, the home of Alexander Hamilton, and the burial
+place of the greatest soldier of the Civil War.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Woodman, spare that tree!</p>
+    <p class="i2">Touch not a single bough!</p>
+  <p>In youth it sheltered me,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And I will protect it now.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i16"><i>George P. Morris.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page49" id="page49"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;49]</span>
+
+
+<h4>One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth Street to Yonkers.</h4>
+<p>
+This upper landing of the Hudson River Day Line has
+a beautiful location and is a great convenience to the
+dwellers of northern Manhattan. On leaving the pier
+the steel-arched structure of Riverside Drive is seen on
+the right. The valley here spanned, in the neighborhood
+of 127th Street, was once known as "Marritje Davids'
+Fly," and the local name for this part of New York
+above Claremont Heights is still known as "Manhattanville."
+The Convent of the Sacred Heart is visible among
+the trees, and</p>
+<p>
+<b>Trinity Cemetery's Monuments</b> soon gleam along the
+wooded bank. Among her distinguished dead is the grave
+of General John A. Dix whose words rang across the
+land sixty days before the attack on Fort Sumter: "If
+any man attempts to pull down the American flag shoot
+him on the spot." The John A. Dix Post of New York
+comes hither each Decoration Day and garlands with
+imposing ceremonies his grave and the graves of their
+comrades.</p>
+<p>
+Near Carmansville was the home of Audubon, the
+ornithologist, and the residences above the cemetery are
+grouped together as Audubon Park. Near at hand is the
+New York Institute for the Deaf and Dumb, and pleasantly
+located near the shore the River House once known
+as West-End Hotel.</p>
+<p><a name="p49" id="p49"></a>
+<b>Washington Heights</b> rise in a bold bluff above Jeffrey's
+Hook. After the withdrawal of the American army from
+Long Island, it became apparent to General Washington
+and Hamilton that New York would have to be abandoned.
+General Greene and Congress believed in maintaining the
+fort, but future developments showed that Washington
+was right. The American troops, so far as clothing or
+equipment was concerned, were in a pitiable condition,
+and the result of the struggle makes one of the darkest<a name="page50" id="page50"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;50]</span>
+pages of the war. On the 12th of November Washington
+started from Stony Point for Fort Lee and arrived the
+13th, finding to his disappointment that General Greene,
+instead of having made arrangements for evacuating, was,
+on the contrary, reinforcing Fort Washington. The entire
+defense numbered only about 2000 men, mostly militia,
+with hardly a coat, to quote an English writer, "that
+was not out at the elbows." "On the night of the 14th
+thirty flat-bottomed boats stole quietly up the Hudson,
+passed the American forts undiscovered, and made their
+way through Spuyten Duyvil Creek into Harlem River.
+The means were thus provided for crossing that river,
+and landing before unprotected parts of the American
+works."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Faith's pioneers and Freedom's martyrs sleep</p>
+<p>Beneath their shade: and under their old boughs</p>
+<p>The wise and brave of generations past</p>
+<p>Walked every Sabbath to the house of God.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+According to Irving, "On the 15th General Howe sent
+a summons to surrender, with a threat of extremities
+should he have to carry the place by assault." Magaw,
+in his reply, intimated a doubt that General Howe would
+execute a threat "so unworthy of himself and the British
+nation; but give me leave," added he, "to assure his
+Excellency, that, actuated by the most glorious cause that
+mankind ever fought in, I am determined to defend this
+post to the very last extremity."</p>
+<p>
+"Apprised by the colonel of his peril, General Greene
+sent over reinforcements, with an exhortation to him to
+persist in his defense; and dispatched an express to General
+Washington, who was at Hackensack, where the
+troops from Peekskill were encamped. It was nightfall
+when Washington arrived at Fort Lee. Greene and
+Putnam were over at the besieged fortress. He threw
+himself into a boat, and had partly crossed the river,
+when he met those Generals returning. They informed
+him of the garrison having been reinforced, and assured
+him that it was in high spirits, and capable of making
+a good defense. It was with difficulty, however, they
+could prevail on him to return with them to the Jersey
+shore, for he was excessively excited."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Hark! Freedom's arms ring far and wide;</p>
+    <p class="i2">Again these forts with beacons gleam;</p>
+  <p>Loud cannon roar on every side&mdash;</p>
+    <p class="i2">I start, I wake; I did but dream.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page51" id="page51"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;51]</span>
+<p>
+"Early the next morning, Magaw made his dispositions
+for the expected attack. His forces, with the recent
+addition, amounted to nearly three thousand men. As
+the fort could not contain above a third of its defenders,
+most of them were stationed about the outworks."</p>
+<p>
+About noon, a heavy cannonade thundered along the
+rocky hills, and sharp volleys of musketry, proclaimed
+that the action was commenced.</p>
+<p>
+"Washington, surrounded by several of his officers, had
+been an anxious spectator of the battle from the opposite
+side of the Hudson. Much of it was hidden from him
+by intervening hills and forest; but the roar of cannonry
+from the valley of the Harlem River, the sharp and
+incessant reports of rifles, and the smoke rising above
+the tree-tops, told him of the spirit with which the assault
+was received at various points, and gave him for a time
+hope that the defense might be successful. The action
+about the lines to the south lay open to him, and could
+be distinctly seen through a telescope; and nothing encouraged
+him more than the gallant style in which Cadwalader
+with inferior force maintained his position. When
+he saw him however, assailed in flank, the line broken,
+and his troops, overpowered by numbers, retreating to
+the fort, he gave up the game as lost. The worst sight
+of all, was to behold his men cut down and bayoneted
+by the Hessians while begging quarter. It is said so
+completely to have overcome him, that he wept with the
+tenderness of a child."</p>
+<p>
+"Seeing the flag go into the fort from Knyphausen's
+division, and surmising it to be a summons to surrender,
+he wrote a note to Magaw, telling him if he could hold
+out until evening and the place could not be maintained,
+he would endeavor to bring off the garrison in the night.
+Capt. Gooch, of Boston, a brave and daring man, offered
+to be the bearer of the note. He ran down to the river,
+jumped into a small boat, pushed over the river, landed
+under the bank, ran up to the fort and delivered the<a name="page52" id="page52"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;52]</span>
+message, came out, ran and jumped over the broken
+ground, dodging the Hessians, some of whom struck at
+him with their pieces and others attempted to thrust him
+with their bayonets; escaping through them, he got to
+his boat and returned to Fort Lee."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Up and down the valley of the Hudson the contending</p>
+<p>armies surged like the ebbing and flowing of the
+tides.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>William Wait.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Washington's message arrived too late. "The fort was
+so crowded by the garrison and the troops which had
+retreated into it, that it was difficult to move about. The
+enemy, too, were in possession of the little redoubts around,
+and could have poured in showers of shells and ricochet
+balls that would have made dreadful slaughter." It was
+no longer possible for Magaw to get his troops to man
+the lines; he was compelled, therefore, to yield himself
+and his garrison prisoners of war. The only terms
+granted them were, that the men should retain their baggage
+and the officers their swords.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Fort Lee</b>, directly across the river, had a commanding
+position, but was entirely useless to the Revolutionary
+army after the fall of Fort Washington. It was therefore
+immediately abandoned to the British, as was also
+Fort Constitution, another redoubt near at hand.</p>
+<p>
+It will be remembered that the American army after
+long continued disaster in and about New York, retreated
+southward from Fort Lee and Hackensack to the Delaware,
+where Washington with a strategic stroke brought
+dismay on his enemies and restored confidence to his
+friends and the Patriots' Cause.</p>
+<p><a name="p52" id="p52"></a>
+<b>The Palisades, or Great Chip Rock</b>, as they were known
+by the old Dutch settlers, present the same bold front
+to the river that the Giant's Causeway does to the ocean.
+Their height at Fort Lee, where the bold cliffs first assert
+themselves, is three hundred feet, and they extend about
+seventeen or eighteen miles to the hills of Rockland
+County. A stroll along the summit reveals the fact that
+they are almost as broken and fantastic in form as the
+great rocks along the Elbe in Saxon-Switzerland.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The Palisades in sterner pride</p>
+<p>Tower as the gloom steals o'er the tide,</p>
+<p>For the great stream a bulwark meet</p>
+<p>That laves its rock-encumbered feet.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+As the basaltic trap-rock is one of the oldest geological<a name="page53" id="page53"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;53]</span>
+formations, we might still appropriately style the Palisades
+"a chip of the old block." They separate the
+valley of the Hudson from the valley of the Hackensack.
+The Hackensack rises in Rockland Lake opposite Sing
+Sing, within two or three hundred yards of the Hudson,
+and the rivers flow thirty miles side by side. Some
+geologists think that originally they were one river, but
+they are now separated from each other by a wall more
+substantial than even the 2,000 mile structure of the
+"Heathen Chinee."</p>
+<p>
+It might also be interesting to note Prof. Newberry's
+idea that in pre-glacial times this part of the continent
+was several hundred feet higher than at present, and
+that the Hudson was a very rapid stream and much
+larger than now, draining as it did the Great Lakes:
+that the St. Lawrence found its way through the Hudson
+Channel following pretty nearly the line of the present
+Mohawk, and the great river emptied into the Atlantic
+some 80 miles south of Staten Island. This idea is confirmed
+by the soundings of the coast survey which discover
+the ancient page of the Hudson as here indicated
+on the floor of the sea far out where the ocean is 500
+feet in depth. A speculation of what a voyager a few
+million years ago would have then seen might, however,
+as Hamlet observes, be "to consider somewhat too curiously" 
+for ordinary up-to-date tourists. But even, granting
+all this to be true, the Palisades were already old,
+thrown up long ages before, between a rift in the earth's
+surface, where it cooled in columnar form. The rocky
+mould which held it, being of softer material, finally disintegrated
+and crumbled away, leaving the cliff with its
+peculiar perpendicular formation.</p>
+<p>
+A recent writer has said: "The Palisades are among
+the wonders of the world. Only three other places equal
+them in importance, but each of the four is different
+from the others, and the Palisades are unique. The
+Giant's Causeway on the north coast of Ireland, and the<a name="page54" id="page54"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;54]</span>
+cliffs at Kawaddy in India, are thought by many to have
+been the result of the same upheaval of nature as the
+Palisades; but the Hudson rocks seem to have preserved
+their entirety&mdash;to have come up in a body, as it were&mdash;while
+the Giant's Causeway owes its celebrity to the
+ruined state in which the Titanic forces of nature have
+left it. The third wonder is at Staffa, in Scotland, where
+the rocks have been thrown into such a position as to
+justify the name of Fingal's Cave, which they bear, and
+which was bestowed on them in the olden times before
+Scottish history began to be written. It is singular how
+many of the names which dignify, or designate, favorite
+spots of the Giant's Causeway have been duplicated in
+the Palisades. Among the Hudson rocks are several
+'Lady's Chairs,' 'Lover's Leaps,' 'Devil's Toothpicks,'
+'Devil's Pulpits,' and, in many spots on the water's edge,
+especially those most openly exposed to the weather, we
+see exactly the same conformations which excite admiration
+and wonder in the Irish rocks."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Where the mighty cliffs look upward in their glory and their glow</p>
+<p>I see a wondrous river in its beauty southward flow.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>Thomas C. Harbaugh.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Under the base of these cliffs William Cullen Bryant
+one Sabbath morning wrote his beautiful lines:</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"Cool shades and dews are round my way,</p>
+<p>And silence of the early day;</p>
+<p>Mid the dark rocks that watch his bed,</p>
+<p>Glitters the mighty Hudson spread,</p>
+<p>Unrippled, save by drops that fall</p>
+<p>From shrubs that fringe his mountain wall;</p>
+<p>And o'er the clear, still water swells</p>
+<p>The music of the Sabbath bells.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>All, save this little nook of land,</p>
+<p>Circled with trees, on which I stand;</p>
+<p>All, save that line of hills which lie</p>
+<p>Suspended in the mimic sky&mdash;</p>
+<p>Seems a blue void, above, below,</p>
+<p>Through which the white clouds come and go;</p>
+<p>And from the green world's farthest steep</p>
+<p>I gaze into the airy deep."</p>
+</div>
+</div><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A mellow sunset was settling upon the hills and</p>
+<p>waters and a thousand flashes played over the distant</p>
+<p>city as its spires and prominent objects caught its glow.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>N. P. Willis.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page55" id="page55"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;55]</span>
+<p>
+There are many strange stories connected with the
+Palisades, and one narrator says: "remarkable disappearances
+have occurred in the vicinity that have never been
+explained. On a conical-shaped rock near Clinton Point
+a young man and a young woman were seen standing
+some half a century ago. Several of their friends, who
+were back some thirty feet from the face of the cliff,
+saw them distinctly, and called out to them not to
+approach too near the edge. The young couple laughingly
+sent some answer back, and a moment later vanished
+as by magic. Their friends rushed to the edge of the
+cliff but saw no trace of them. They noticed at once
+that the tide was out, and at the base three or four
+boatmen were sauntering about as though nothing had
+happened (forgetting even, as Bryant did, that a vertical
+line from the top of the cliff on account of the crumbling
+debris of ages makes it impossible for even the strongest
+arm to hurl a stone from the summit to the margin of
+the river). A diligent search was instituted. Friends
+and boatmen joined in the search, but from that day to
+this they have never been heard from, no trace of them
+has been found, and the mystery of their disappearance
+is as complete now as it was five minutes after they vanished&mdash;a
+more tragical termination than the story of the
+old pilot on a Lake George steamer, who, surrounded one
+morning by a group of tourist-questioners, pointed to
+Roger Slide Mountain, and said: "A couple went up there
+and never came back again." "What do you suppose,
+captain," said a fair-haired, anxious listener, "ever became
+of them?" "Can't tell," said the captain, "some
+folks said they went down on the other side."</p>
+<p>
+The old Palisade Mountain House, a few miles above
+Fort Lee, had a commanding location, but was burned in
+1884 and never rebuilt. Pleasant villas are here and there
+springing up along this rocky balcony of the lower Hudson,
+and probably the entire summit will some day abound in
+castles and luxuriant homes. It is in fact within the<a name="page56" id="page56"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;56]</span>
+limit of possibility that this may in the future present
+the finest residential street in the world, with a natural
+macadamized boulevard midway between the Hudson and
+the sky.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>What love yon cliffs and steeps could tell</p>
+<p>If vocal made by Fancy's spell!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+It grieves one to see the gray rocks torn away for
+building material, but, as fast as man destroys, nature
+kindly heals the wound; or to keep the Palisade figure
+more complete, she recaptures the scarred and broken
+battlements, unfolding along the steep escarpment her
+waving standards of green. It sometimes seems as if
+one can almost see her selecting the easiest point of
+attack, marshalling her forces, running her parallels with
+Boadicea-like skill, and carrying her streaming banners,
+more real than Macbeth's "Birnam-Wood" to crowning
+rampart and lofty parapet.</p>
+<p>
+The New York side from the Battery to Inwood, the
+northern end of Manhattan Island, is already "well peopled."
+Until recently the land about Fort Washington
+has been held in considerable tracts and the very names
+of these suburban points suggest altitude and outlook&mdash;Highbridgeville,
+Fordham Heights, Morris Heights, University
+Heights, Kingsbridge Heights, Mount Hope, &amp;c.
+The growth of the city all the way to Jerome and Van
+Cortlandt's Park during the last few years has been
+marvelous. It has literally stepped over the Harlem to
+find room in the picturesque county of Westchester.</p>
+<p><a name="p56" id="p56"></a>
+<b>The Island of Manhattan.</b>&mdash;As we approach the northern
+limit of Manhattan we feel that in the preservation
+of the beautiful name "Manhattan," distinctive of New
+York's chief borough, Irving's dream has been happily
+realized. The meaning of this Indian word has been
+the subject of much discussion. It is, however, simply
+the name of a tribe. As the old historian De Laet says,
+"On the east side, on the main land dwell the Manhattoes,"
+and again from the "Documentary History of
+New York." "It is so called from the people which inhabited
+the main land on the east side of the river."</p>
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Pleasant it is to lie amid the grass,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Under these shady locusts half the day,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Watching the ships reflected in the Bay,</p>
+  <p>Topmast and shroud, as in a wizard's glass.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Thomas Bailey Aldrich.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-057-1115.png"><img src="images/illus-057-600.png" width="600" height="372" alt="INDIAN HEAD, PALISADES" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>INDIAN HEAD, PALISADES</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<a name="page57" id="page57"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;57]</span>
+<p>
+The word Manhattan signifies also it is said: "The
+People of the Islands," and it was evidently used by the
+Indians as a generic term designating the inhabitants
+of the island itself, and also of Long Island and the
+Neversink. This is in accordance with the testimony of
+Van der Donck. With Irving we all recognize the music
+and poetry of the name and are proud that our river of
+beauty is so happily heralded.</p>
+<p><a name="p57" id="p57"></a>
+<b>Spuyten Duyvil Creek.</b>&mdash;Above Washington Heights, on
+the east bank, the <i>Spuyten Duyvil</i> meets the Hudson.
+This stream is the northern boundary of New York Island,
+and a short distance east of the Hudson bears the name
+of Harlem River. Its course is south-east and joins the
+East River at Randall's Island, just above Hell Gate.
+It is a curious fact that this modest stream should be
+bounded by such suggestive appellations as Hell Gate
+and Spuyten Duyvil. This is the first point of special
+legendary interest to one journeying up the Hudson and
+it takes its name according to the veracious Knickerbocker,
+from the following incident: It seems that the
+famous Antony Van Corlear was despatched one evening
+with an important message up the Hudson. When he
+arrived at this creek the wind was high, the elements
+were in an uproar, and no boatman at hand. "For a
+short time," it is said, "he vapored like an impatient
+ghost upon the brink, and then, bethinking himself of the
+urgency of his errand, took a hearty embrace of his stone
+bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across
+<i>en spijt en Duyvil</i> (in spite of the Devil), and daringly
+plunged into the stream. Scarce had he buffeted half
+way over when he was observed to struggle violently, as
+if battling with the spirit of the waters. Instinctively
+he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehement
+blast&mdash;sank forever to the bottom."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>O legends full of life and health,</p>
+  <p class="i2">That live when records fail and die,</p>
+<p>Ye are the Hudson's richest wealth,</p>
+  <p class="i2">The frondage of her history!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The main branch of the Hudson River Railroad, with
+its station at Forty-second Street and Fourth Avenue,
+crosses the Harlem River at Mott Haven, and, following<a name="page58" id="page58"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;58]</span>
+its northern bank, meets the Hudson at this point, where
+the 30th Street branch, following the river, joins the
+main line. The steamer now passes Riverdale, with its
+beautiful residences and the Convent of Mount St. Vincent,
+one of the prominent landmarks of the Hudson,
+located on grounds bought of Edwin Forrest, the tragedian,
+whose "Font Hill Castle" appears in the foreground,
+and we come to</p>
+<p><a name="p58" id="p58"></a>
+<b>Yonkers</b>, on the east bank, seventeen miles from New
+York, at the mouth of the Nepperhan. West of the creek
+is a large rock, called A-mac-lea-sin, the great stone to
+which the Indians paid reverence as an evidence of the
+permanency and immutability of their deity. The Mahican
+Village at the mouth of the creek was called Nappechemak.
+European settlements were made as early as 1639,
+as shown by deeds of purchase. Here are many important
+manufacturing industries: carpet, silk, and hat
+factories; mowers and reapers, gutta percha, rubber and
+pencil companies. Its "Recreation Pavilion" on the pier
+was a noble thing for the city to build&mdash;costing $50,000.
+The structure is of steel and capable of accommodating
+5,000 people.</p>
+<p>
+It is said that Yonkers derived its name from Yonk-herr&mdash;the 
+young heir, or young sir, of the Phillipse manor.
+Until after the middle of the seventeenth century the
+Phillipse family had their principal residence at Castle
+Phillipse, Sleepy Hollow, but having purchased "property
+to the southward" from Adrian Van der Donck and
+obtained from the English king a patent creating the
+manor of Phillipsburgh, they moved from their old castle
+to the new "Manor Hall," which at this time was probably
+the finest mansion on the Hudson. This property
+was confiscated by act of Legislature in 1779, as Frederick
+Phillipse, third lord of the manor, was thought to lean
+toward royalty, and sold by the "Commissioners of Forfeiture" 
+in 1785. It was afterwards purchased by John
+Jacob Astor, then passed to the Government, was bought<a name="page59" id="page59"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;59]</span>
+by the village of Yonkers in 1868, and became the City
+Hall in 1872. The older portion of the house was built
+in 1682, the present front in 1745. The woodwork is
+very interesting, also the ceilings, the large hall and
+the wide fire-place. In the room still pointed out as
+Washington's, the fire-place retains the old tiles, "illustrating
+familiar passages in Bible history," fifty on each
+side, looking as clear as if they were made but yesterday.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Once more I walk in the dark old street</p>
+    <p class="i2">Wearily to and fro:&mdash;</p>
+  <p>But I sit no more on the desolate pier</p>
+    <p class="i2">Watching the river flow.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Richard Henry Stoddard.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Mary Phillipse, belle of the neighborhood, and known
+in tradition as Washington's first love, was born in the
+"Manor House" July 3, 1730. Washington first met her
+on a visit to New York in 1756, after his return from
+Braddock's campaign, as guest of Beverly Robinson, who
+had married her elder sister.</p>
+<p>
+It has been claimed by some writers that he proposed
+and was rejected, but it is doubtful whether he ever
+was serious in his attentions. At least there is no evidence
+that he ever "told his love," and she finally married
+Col. Roger Morris, one of Washington's associates on
+Braddock's staff. The best part of residential Yonkers
+lies to the northward, beautifully embowered in trees as
+seen from the Hudson. A line of electric street cars run
+north along Warburton Avenue. The street known as
+Broadway, is a continuation of Broadway, New York.
+Many of the river towns still keep this name, probably
+prophetic as a part of the great Broadway which may
+extend some day from the Battery to Peekskill.</p>
+<p>
+Almost opposite Yonkers a ravine or sort of step-ladder
+cleft, now known as Alpine Gorge, reaches up the precipitous
+sides of the Palisades. The landing here was
+formerly called Closter's, from which a road zigzags to
+the top of the cliff and thence to Closter Village. Here
+Lord Grey disembarked in October, 1778, and crossed to
+Hackensack Valley, "surprising and massacring Col. Bayler's
+patriots, despite their surrender and calls for mercy."</p>
+<p>
+Indian Head (510 feet) about two miles north of Alpine
+Gorge, is the highest point of the Palisades.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Eve o'er our path is stealing fast;</p>
+<p>Yon quivering splendors are the last;</p>
+<p>His latest glories fringe the height</p>
+<p>Behind us with their golden light.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page60" id="page60"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;60]</span>
+
+<h4>Yonkers to West Point</h4>
+<p>
+Passing Glenwood, now a suburban station of Yonkers,
+conspicuous from the Colgate mansion near the river bank,
+built by a descendant of the English Colgates who were
+familiar friends of William Pitt, and leaders of the Liberal
+Club in Kent, England, and "Greystone," once the country
+residence of the late Samuel J. Tilden, Governor of New
+York, and presidential candidate in 1876, we come to</p>
+<p><a name="p60" id="p60"></a>
+<b>Hastings</b>, where a party of Hessians during the Revolutionary
+struggle were surprised and cut to pieces by
+troops under Colonel Sheldon. It was here also that Lord
+Cornwallis embarked for Fort Lee after the capture of
+Fort Washington, and here in 1850 Garibaldi, the liberator
+of Italy, whose centennial was observed July 4, 1907,
+frequently came to spend the Sabbath and visit friends
+when he was living at Staten Island. Although there is
+apparently little to interest in the village, there are many
+beautiful residences in the immediate neighborhood, and
+the Old Post road for two miles to the northward furnishes
+a beautiful walk or driveway, well shaded by old
+locust trees. The tract of country from Spuyten Duyvil
+to Hastings was called by the Indians Kekesick and
+reached east as far as the Bronx River.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Dobbs Ferry</b> is now at hand, named after an old
+Swedish ferryman. The village has not only a delightful
+location but it is also beautiful in itself. In 1781 it was
+Washington's headquarters, and the old house, still standing,
+is famous as the spot where General Washington and
+the Count de Rochambeau planned the campaign against
+Yorktown; where the evacuation of New York was arranged
+by General Clinton and Sir Guy Carleton the
+British commander, and where the first salute to the
+flag of the United States was fired by a British man-of-war.
+A deep glen, known as Paramus, opposite Dobbs
+Ferry, leads to Tappan and New Jersey. Cornwallis<a name="page61" id="page61"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;61]</span>
+landed here in 1776. It is now known as Snedden's 
+Landing.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A lovely country for a summer encampment, breezy</p>
+<p>hills commanding wide prospects, shady valleys watered</p>
+<p>by bright pastoral streams, the Bronx, the Spraine and</p>
+<p>the Neperan.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Washington Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+At Dobbs Ferry, June 14, 1894, the base-stone of a memorial
+shaft was laid with imposing ceremony by the New
+York State Society of the Sons of the American Revolution,
+which erected the monument. There were one
+thousand Grand Army veterans in line, and addresses by
+distinguished orators and visitors. The Society and its
+guests, including members of the cabinet, officers of the
+army and navy, and prominent men of various States,
+accompanied by full Marine Band of the navy yard, with
+a detachment of Naval Reserves, participated in the event.</p>
+<p>
+Voyagers up the river that day saw the "Miantonomoh"
+and the "Lancaster," under the command of Rear-Admiral
+Gherardi, anchored mid-stream to take part in the
+exercises. During the Revolution this historic house was
+leased by a Dutch farmer holding under Frederick
+Phillipse as landlord. After the war it was purchased
+by Peter Livingston and known since as the Livingston
+House. Arnold and Andre were to have met here but
+providentially for the American cause, the meeting took
+place at Haverstraw.</p>
+<p>
+The Indian name of Dobbs Ferry was Wecquaskeck,
+and it is said by Ruttenber that the outlines of the old
+Indian village can still be traced by numerous shell-beds.
+It was located at the mouth of Wicker's Creek which
+was called by the Indians Wysquaqua.</p>
+<p><a name="p61" id="p61"></a>
+<b>Tappan Zee.</b>&mdash;The steamer is now entering Irving's
+rich domain, and Tappan Zee lapping the threshold of
+"Sunnyside," seems almost a part of his very dooryard.
+The river, which has averaged about a mile in breadth,
+begins to gradually widen at Hastings, and almost seems
+like a gentle, reposeful lake.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Piermont</b>, whose "mile-long-pier," built many years
+ago by the Erie Railroad, hardly mars the landscape so
+great is the majesty of the river, is seen on the west
+bank with Tower Hill rising above it from which four<a name="page62" id="page62"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;62]</span>
+states are seen. The view includes Long Island, the
+Sound and the Orange Mountains on the south, with the
+Catskills to the north and Berkshires to the northeast.
+Louis Gaylord Clark, a friend of Irving, and an early
+literary associate had a cottage on Piermont Hills.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>We have a charming position for our French encampment</p>
+<p>along the Hudson among rocks and under magnificent</p>
+<p>tulip trees.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Count Dumas.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Turning to the eastern shore, we see "Nuits," the Cottinet
+residence, Italian in style, built of Caen stone,
+"Nevis," home of the late Col. James Hamilton, son of
+Alexander Hamilton, the George L. Schuyler mansion, the
+late Cyrus W. Field's, and many pleasant places about
+Abbotsford, and come to</p>
+<p><a name="p62" id="p62"></a>
+<b>Irvington</b>, on the east bank, 24 miles from New York,
+once known as Dearman's, but changed in compliment to
+the great writer and lover of the Hudson, who after a
+long sojourn in foreign lands, returned to live by the
+tranquil waters of Tappan Zee. In a letter to his brother
+he refers to Sleepy Hollow as the favorite resort of his
+boyhood, and says: "The Hudson is in a manner my first
+and last love, and after all my wanderings and seeming
+infidelities, I return to it with a heartfelt preference over
+all the rivers of the world." As at Stratford-on-Avon
+every flower is redolent of Shakespeare, and at Melrose
+every stone speaks of Walter Scott, so here on every
+breeze floats the spirit of Washington Irving. A short
+walk of half a mile north from the station brings us
+to his much-loved</p>
+<p>
+<b>"Sunnyside."</b> Irving aptly describes it in one of his
+stories as "made up of gable-ends, and full of angles
+and corners as an old cocked hat. It is said, in fact,
+to have been modeled after the hat of Peter the Headstrong,
+as the Escurial of Spain was fashioned after the
+gridiron of the blessed St. Lawrence." Wolfert's Roost,
+as it was once styled (Roost signifying Rest), took its
+name from Wolfert Acker, a former owner. It consisted
+originally of ten acres when purchased by Irving in
+1835, but eight acres were afterwards added. With great
+humor Irving put above the porch entrance "George Harvey,<a name="page63" id="page63"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;63]</span>
+Boum'r," Boumeister being an old Dutch word for
+architect. A storm-worn weather-cock, "which once battled
+with the wind on the top of the Stadt House of New
+Amsterdam in the time of Peter Stuyvesant, erects his
+crest on the gable, and a gilded horse in full gallop, once
+the weather-cock of the great Van der Heyden palace
+of Albany, glitters in the sunshine, veering with every
+breeze, on the peaked turret over the portal."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Irving chose his residence in the valley, not amid</p>
+<p>the mountains; by the fields and meadows of the broad</p>
+<p>Tappan Zee, rather than the Highlands; in a congenial</p>
+<p>region suited to his temperament.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Dr. Bethune.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+About fifty years ago a cutting of Walter Scott's favorite
+ivy at Melrose Abbey was transported across the
+Atlantic, and trained over the porch of "Sunnyside," by
+the hand of Mrs. Renwick, daughter of Rev. Andrew
+Jeffrey of Lochmaben, known in girlhood as the "Bonnie
+Jessie" of Annandale, or the "Blue-eyed Lassie" of
+Robert Burns:&mdash;a graceful tribute, from the shrine of
+Waverley to the nest of Knickerbocker:</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>A token of friendship immortal</p>
+    <p class="i2">With Washington Irving returns:&mdash;</p>
+  <p>Scott's ivy entwined o'er his portal</p>
+    <p class="i2">By the Blue-eyed Lassie of Burns.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Scott's cordial greeting at Abbotsford, and his persistence
+in getting Murray to reconsider the publication of
+the "Sketch Book," which he had previously declined,
+were never forgotten by Irving. It was during a critical
+period of his literary career, and the kindness of the Great
+Magician, in directing early attention to his genius, is
+still cherished by every reader of the "Sketch Book"
+from Manhattan to San Francisco. The hearty grasp of
+the Minstrel at the gateway of Abbotsford was in reality
+a warm handshake to a wider brotherhood beyond the sea.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>In purple tints woven together</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Hudson shakes hands with the Tweed,</p>
+  <p>Commingling with Abbotsford's heather</p>
+    <p class="i2">The clover of Sunnyside's mead.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p63" id="p63"></a>
+<b>Washington Irving.</b>&mdash;While he was building "Sunnyside,"
+a letter came from Daniel Webster, then Secretary
+of State, appointing him minister to Spain. It was
+unexpected and unsolicited, and Webster remarked that
+day to a friend: "Washington Irving to-day will be the
+most surprised man in America." Irving had already<a name="page64" id="page64"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;64]</span>
+shown diplomatic ability in London in promoting the
+settlement of the "North Western Boundary," and his
+appointment was received with universal favor. Then as
+now Sunnyside was already a Mecca for travelers, and,
+among many well-known to fame, was a young man,
+afterwards Napoleon the Third. Referring to his visit,
+Irving wrote in 1853: "Napoleon and Eugenie, Emperor
+and Empress! The one I have had as a guest at my
+cottage, the other I have held as a pet child upon my
+knee in Granada. The last I saw of Eugenie Montijo,
+she was one of the reigning belles of Madrid; now, she
+is upon the throne, launched from a returnless shore,
+upon a dangerous sea, infamous for its tremendous shipwrecks.
+Am I to live to see the catastrophe of her career,
+and the end of this suddenly conjured up empire, which
+seems to be of such stuff as dreams are made of? I
+confess my personal acquaintance with the individuals
+in this historical romance gives me uncommon interest
+in it; but I consider it stamped with danger and instability,
+and as liable to extravagant vicissitudes as one
+of Dumas' novels." A wonderful prophecy completely
+fulfilled in the short space of seventeen years.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>How many such men as Washington Irving are there</p>
+<p>in America. God don't send many such spirits into this</p>
+<p>world.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Lord Byron.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-065-1122.png"><img src="images/illus-065-600.png" width="600" height="373" alt="NORTHERN POINT OF PALISADES" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>NORTHERN POINT OF PALISADES</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+<p>
+The aggregate sale of Irving's works when he received
+his portfolio to Spain was already more than half a
+million copies, with an equal popularity achieved in
+Britain. No writer was ever more truly loved on both
+sides of the Atlantic, and his name is cherished to-day
+in England as fondly as it is in our own country. It
+has been the good fortune of the writer to spend many
+a delightful day in the very centre of Merrie England,
+in the quiet town of Stratford-on-Avon, and feel the
+gentle companionship of Irving. Of all writers who have
+brought to Stratford their heart homage Irving stands the
+acknowledged chief. The sitting-room in the "Red Horse
+Hotel," where he was disturbed in his midnight reverie,
+is still called Irving's room, and the walls are hung with
+portraits taken at different periods of his life. Mine<a name="page65" id="page65"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;65]</span>
+host said that visitors from every land were as much
+interested in this room as in Shakespeare's birth-place.
+The remark may have been intensified to flatter an American
+visitor, but there are few names dearer to the Anglo-Saxon
+race than that on the plain headstone in the burial-yard
+of Sleepy Hollow. Sunnyside is scarcely visible to
+the Day Line tourist. A little gleam of color here and
+there amid the trees, close to the river bank, near a
+small boat-house, merely indicates its location; and the
+traveler by train has only a hurried glimpse, as it is
+within one hundred feet of the New York Central Railroad.
+Tappan Zee, at this point, is a little more than
+two miles wide and over the beautiful expanse Irving has
+thrown a wondrous charm. There is, in fact, "magic in
+the web" of all his works. A few modern critics, lacking
+appreciation alike for humor and genius, may regard his
+essays as a thing of the past, but as long as the Mahicanituk,
+the ever-flowing Hudson, pours its waters to the sea,
+as long as Rip Van Winkle sleeps in the blue Catskills,
+or the "Headless Horseman" rides at midnight along the
+Old Post Road <i>en route</i> for Teller's Point, so long will the
+writings of Washington Irving be remembered and cherished.
+We somehow feel the reality of every legend he
+has given us. The spring bubbling up near his cottage
+was brought over, as he gravely tells us, in a churn
+from Holland by one of the old time settlers, and we
+are half inclined to believe it; and no one ever thinks
+of doubting that the "Flying Dutchman," Mynheer Van
+Dam, has been rowing for two hundred years and never
+made a port. It is in fact still said by the old inhabitants,
+that often in the soft twilight of summer evenings,
+when the sea is like glass and the opposite hills throw
+their shadows across it, that the low vigorous pull of
+oars is heard but no boat is seen.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Here was no castle in the air, but a realized day-dream.</p>
+<p>Irving was there, as genial, humorous and imaginative</p>
+<p>as if he had never wandered from the primal</p>
+<p>haunts of his childhood and his fame.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+According to Irving "Sunnyside" was once the property
+of old Baltus Van Tassel, and here lived the fair Katrina,
+beloved by all the youths of the neighborhood, but more<a name="page66" id="page66"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;66]</span>
+especially by Ichabod Crane, the country school-master,
+and a reckless youth by the name of Van Brunt. Irving
+tells us that he thought out the story one morning on
+London Bridge, and went home and completed it in thirty-six
+hours. The character of Ichabod Crane was a sketch
+of a young man whom he met at Kinderhook when writing
+his Knickerbocker history. It will be remembered that
+Ichabod Crane went to a quilting-bee at the home of
+Mynheer Van Tassel, and, after the repast, was regaled
+with various ghost stories peculiar to the locality. When
+the "party" was over he lingered for a time with the
+fair Katrina, but sallied out soon after with an air quite
+desolate and chop-fallen. The night grew darker and
+darker. He had never before felt so lonesome and miserable.
+As he passed the fatal tree where Arnold was
+captured, there started up before him the identical "Headless
+Horseman" to whom he had been introduced by the
+story of Brom Bones. Nay, not entirely headless; for
+the head which "should have rested upon his shoulders
+was carried before him on the pommel of the saddle. His
+terror rose to desperation. He rode for death and life.
+The strange horseman sped beside him at an equal pace.
+He fell into a walk. The strange horseman did the same.
+He endeavored to sing a psalm-tune, but his tongue clove
+to the roof of his mouth. If he could but reach the
+bridge Ichabod thought he would be safe. Away then
+he flew in rapid flight. He reached the bridge, he thundered
+over the resounding planks. Then he saw the
+goblin rising in his stirrups, and in the very act of
+launching his head at him. It encountered his cranium
+with a tremendous crash. He was tumbled headlong
+into the dirt, and the black steed and the spectral rider
+passed by like a whirlwind. The next day tracks of
+horses deeply dented in the road were traced to the bridge,
+beyond which, on the bank of a broad part of the brook,
+where the water ran deep and black, was found the hat
+of the unfortunate Ichabod, and close beside it a shattered<a name="page67" id="page67"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;67]</span>
+pumpkin." All honor to him who fills this working-day
+world with humor, romance and beauty!</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I beg you will have the kindness to let me know when</p>
+<p>Mr. Irving takes pen in hand again; for assuredly I</p>
+<p>shall expect a very great treat which I may chance never</p>
+<p>to hear of but through your kindness.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Walter Scott.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I want to visit Washington Irving, I want to see your </p>
+<p>stupendous scenery, I want to go to the grave of</p>
+<p>Washington.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Lord Byron.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Lyndehurst</b>, Helen M. Gould's residence. A short distance
+north of "Sunnyside" is the home of Helen M.
+Gould, whose modest and liberal use of wealth in noble
+charities has endeared her to every American heart. The
+place was first known as the Paulding Manor House,
+where William Paulding, early mayor of New York, and
+nephew of one of the captors of Andre had his country
+home. It is a beautiful specimen of old time English
+architecture, with a suggestion, as some writers have
+noted, of Newstead Abbey. This part of the Hudson is
+particularly rich in beautiful residences, rising tier upon
+tier from the river to the horizon. Albert Bierstadt, the
+artist, had here a beautiful home, unfortunately burned
+many years ago.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Old Post Road</b> from New York to Albany is in
+many particulars the richest and greatest highway of
+our country.</p>
+<p><a name="p67" id="p67"></a>
+<b>Tappan.</b>&mdash;Almost opposite Irvington about two miles
+southwest of Piermont, is old Tappantown, where Major
+Andre was executed October 2, 1780. The removal of
+his body from Tappan to Westminster was by a special
+British ship, and a singular incident was connected with
+it. The roots of a cypress tree were found entwined about
+his skull and a scion from the tree was carried to England
+and planted in the garden adjoining Windsor Palace.
+It is a still more curious fact that the tree beneath which
+Andre was captured was struck by lightning on the day
+of Benedict Arnold's death in London. Further reference
+will be made to Andre in our description of Tarrytown,
+and also of Haverstraw, where Arnold and Andre met
+at the house of Joshua Hett Smith.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tarrytown</b>, 26 miles from New York. It was here on
+the Old Post Road, now called Broadway, a little north
+of the village, that Andre was captured and Arnold's
+treachery exposed. A monument erected on the spot by<a name="page68" id="page68"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;68]</span>
+the people of Westchester County, October 7, 1853, bears
+the inscription:</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<b><span class="sc">on this spot, the 23d day of september, 1780, the spy</span>,<br />
+                   MAJOR JOHN ANDRE,<br />
+  Adjutant-General of the British Army, was captured by<br />
+<span class="sc">John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac Van Wart</span>.<br />
+           <span class="sc">all natives of this county</span>.<br />
+               History has told the rest.</b></p>
+
+<p>
+The following quaint ballad-verses on the young hero
+give a realistic touch to one of the most providential
+occurrences in our history:</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>He with a scouting party</p>
+    <p class="i2">Went down to Tarrytown,</p>
+  <p>Where he met a British officer,</p>
+    <p class="i2">A man of high renown,</p>
+  <p>Who says unto these gentlemen,</p>
+    <p class="i2">"You're of the British cheer,</p>
+  <p>I trust that you can tell me</p>
+    <p class="i2">If there's any danger near?"</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Then up stept this young hero,</p>
+    <p class="i2">John Paulding was his name,</p>
+  <p>"Sir, tell us where you're going</p>
+    <p class="i2">And also whence you came?"</p>
+  <p>"I bear the British flag, sir;</p>
+    <p class="i2">I've a pass to go this way,</p>
+  <p>I'm on an expedition,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And have no time to stay."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Young Paulding, however, thought that he had plenty
+of time to linger until he examined his boots, wherein
+he found the papers, and, when offered ten guineas by
+Andre, if he would allow him to pursue his journey,
+replied: "If it were ten thousand guineas you could not
+stir one step."</p>
+<p>
+The centennial anniversary of the event was commemorated
+in 1880 by placing, through the generosity of
+John Anderson, on the original obelisk of 1853, a large
+statue representing John Paulding as a minute man.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>That overruling Providence which has so often and so</p>
+<p>remarkably interposed in our favor, never manifested</p>
+<p>itself more conspicuously than in the timely discovery</p>
+<p>of Arnold's treachery.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>George Washington.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page69" id="page69"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;69]</span>
+<p>
+Tarrytown was the very heart of the debatable ground
+of the Revolution and many striking incidents mark its
+early history. In 1777 Vaughan's troops landed here on
+their way to attack Fort Montgomery, and here a party
+of Americans, under Major Hunt, surprised a number of
+British refugees while playing cards at the Van Tassel
+tavern. The major completely "turned the cards" upon
+them by rushing in with brandished stick, which he
+brought down with emphasis upon the table, remarking
+with genuine American brevity, "Gentlemen, clubs are
+trumps." Here, too, according to Irving, arose the two
+great orders of chivalry, the "Cow Boys" and "Skinners."
+The former fought, or rather marauded under the American,
+the latter under the British banner; the former were
+known as "Highlanders," the latter as the "Lower-Party."
+In the zeal of service both were apt to make
+blunders, and confound the property of friend and foe.
+"Neither of them, in the heat and hurry of a foray, had
+time to ascertain the politics of a horse or cow which
+they were driving off into captivity, nor when they wrung
+the neck of a rooster did they trouble their heads whether
+he crowed for Congress or King George."</p>
+<p>
+It was also a genial, reposeful country for the faithful
+historian, Diedrich Knickerbocker; and here he picked
+up many of those legends which were given by him to
+the world. One of these was the legend connected with
+the old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow. "A drowsy,
+dreamy influence seems to hang over the land, and to
+pervade the very atmosphere. Some say the place was
+bewitched by a high German doctor during the early
+days of the settlement; others that an old Indian chief,
+the wizard of his tribe, held his pow-wows there before
+Hendrick Hudson's discovery of the river. The dominant
+spirit, however, that haunts this enchanted region, is the
+apparition of a figure on horse-back, without a head,
+said to be the ghost of a Hessian trooper, and was known<a name="page70" id="page70"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;70]</span>
+at all the country firesides as the 'Headless horseman'
+of Sleepy Hollow."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>O waters of Pocantico!</p>
+    <p class="i2">Wild rivulet of wood and glen!</p>
+  <p>May thy glad laughter, sweet and low,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Long, long outlive the sighs of men.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>S.H. Thayer.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/078-988.png"><img src="images/078-600.png" width="600" height="389" alt="SLEEPY HOLLOW CHURCH." border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>SLEEPY HOLLOW CHURCH.</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+<p>
+<b>Sleepy Hollow.</b>&mdash;The Old Dutch Church, the oldest on
+the Hudson, is about one-half mile north from Tarrytown.</p>
+
+<p>
+It was built by "Frederick Filipse and his wife Katrina
+Van Cortland in 1690." The material is partly of stone
+and partly of brick brought from Holland. It stands as
+an appropriate sentinel near the entrance to the burial-yard
+where Irving sleeps. After entering the gate our
+way leads past the graves of the Ackers, the Van Tassels,
+and the Van Warts, with inscriptions and plump Dutch
+cherubs on every side that often delighted the heart of
+Diedrich Knickerbocker. How many worshippers since
+that November day in 1859, have come hither with reverent
+footsteps to read on the plain slab this simple
+inscription: "Washington Irving, born April 3, 1783.
+Died November 28, 1859," and recall Longfellow's beautiful
+lines:</p>
+
+
+<a name="page71" id="page71"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;71]</span>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>"Here lies the gentle humorist, who died</p>
+    <p class="i2">In the bright Indian Summer of his fame.</p>
+    <p class="i2">A simple stone, with but a date and name,</p>
+  <p>Marks his secluded resting place beside</p>
+  <p>The river that he loved and glorified.</p>
+    <p class="i2">Here in the Autumn of his days he came,</p>
+    <p class="i2">But the dry leaves of life were all aflame</p>
+  <p>With tints that brightened and were multiplied.</p>
+  <p>How sweet a life was his, how sweet a death;</p>
+  <p>Living to wing with mirth the weary hours,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Or with romantic tales the heart to cheer;</p>
+  <p>Dying to leave a memory like the breath</p>
+  <p>Of Summers full of sunshine and of showers,</p>
+    <p class="i2">A grief and gladness in the atmosphere."</p>
+</div>
+</div><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>If ever I should wish for a retreat whither I might</p>
+<p>steal from the world and its distractions, and dream</p>
+<p>quietly away the remnant of a troubled life, I know of</p>
+<p>none more promising than this little valley.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Washington Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+Sleepy Hollow Church, like Sunnyside, is hidden away
+from the steamer tourist by summer foliage. Just before
+reaching Kingston Point light-house, a view, looking northeast
+up the little bay to the right, will sometimes give
+the outline of the building. Beyond this a tall granite
+shaft, erected by the Delavan family, is generally quite
+distinctly seen, and this is near the grave of Irving. A
+light-house, built in 1883, marks the point where the
+Pocantico or Sleepy Hollow Creek joins the Hudson:</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Pocantico's hushed waters glide</p>
+  <p class="i2">Through Sleepy Hollow's haunted ground,</p>
+<p>And whisper to the listening tide</p>
+  <p class="i2">The name carved o'er one lowly mound.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+To one loving our early history and legends there is
+no spot more central or delightful than Tarrytown. Irving
+humorously says that Tarrytown took its name from husbands
+tarrying too late at the village tavern, but its
+real derivation is Tarwen-Dorp, or Wheat-town. The
+name of the old Indian village at this point was Alipconck
+(the place of elms). It has often occurred to the writer
+that, more than any other river, the Hudson has a distinct
+personality, and also that the four main divisions
+of human life are particularly marked in the Adirondacks,
+the Catskills, the Highlands and Tappan Bay:</p>
+
+
+
+<a name="page72" id="page72"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;72]</span>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The Adirondacks, childhood's glee;</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Catskills, youth with dreams o'ercast;</p>
+  <p>The Highlands, manhood bold and free;</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Tappan Zee, age come at last.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+This was the spot that Irving loved; we linger by
+his grave at Sleepy Hollow with devotion; we sit upon
+his porch at Sunnyside with reverence:</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Thrice blest and happy Tappan Zee,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Whose banks along thy glistening tide</p>
+  <p>Have legend, truth, and poetry</p>
+    <p class="i2">Sweetly expressed in Sunnyside!</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+   <p>Whose golden fancy wove a spell</p>
+    <p class="i2">As lasting as the scene is fair</p>
+  <p>And made the mountain stream and dell</p>
+    <p class="i2">His own dream-life forever share.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="p72" id="p72"></a>
+<b>Nyack</b>, on the west side, 27 miles from New York. The
+village, including Upper Nyack, West Nyack and South
+Nyack, has many fine suburban homes and lies in a semi-circle
+of hills which sweep back from Piermont, meeting
+the river again at the northern end of Tappan Zee.
+Tappan is derived from an Indian tribe of that name,
+which, being translated, is said to signify cold water. The
+bay is ten miles in length, with an average breadth of
+about two miles and a half.</p>
+<p>
+Nyack grows steadily in favor as a place for summer
+residents. The hotels, boarding-houses and suburban
+homes would increase the census as given to nearly ten
+thousand people. The <i>West Shore Railroad</i> is two and
+a half miles from the Hudson, with (a) station at West
+Nyack. The <i>Northern Railroad of New Jersey</i>, leased
+by the <i>New York, Lake Erie and Western</i> (Chambers
+Street and 23d Street, New York), passes west of the Bergen
+Hills and the Palisades. The Ramapo Mountains,
+north of Nyack, were formerly known by ancient mariners
+as the Hook, or Point-no-Point. They come down to the
+river in little headlands, the points of which disappear
+as the steamer nears them. (The peak to the south,
+known as Hook Mountain, is 730 feet high.) Ball Mountain
+above this, and nearer the river, 650 feet. They
+were sometimes called by Dutch captains Verditege Hook.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The sails hung idly all night long,</p>
+    <p class="i2">I dreamed a dream of you and me;</p>
+  <p>'Twas sweeter than the sweetest song,&mdash;</p>
+    <p class="i2">The dream I dreamed on Tappan Zee.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-073-1121.png"><img src="images/illus-073-600.png" width="600" height="372" alt="STONY POINT" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>STONY POINT</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+<a name="page73" id="page73"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;73]</span>
+<p>
+Perhaps it took so long to pass these illusive headlands,
+reaching as they do eight miles along the western bank, 
+that it naturally seemed a <i>very tedious</i> point to the old
+skippers. Midway in this Ramapo Range, "set in a
+dimple of the hills," is&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Rockland Lake</b>, source of the Hackensack River, one
+hundred and fifty feet above the Hudson. The "slide
+way," by which the ice is sent down to the boats to be
+loaded, can be seen from the steamer, and the blocks in
+motion, as seen by the traveler, resemble little white pigs
+running down an inclined plane. As we look at the great
+ice-houses to-day, which, like uncouth barns, stand here
+and there along the Hudson, it does not seem possible
+that only a few years ago ice was decidedly unpopular,
+and wheeled about New York in a hand-cart. Think of
+one hand-cart supplying New York with ice! It was
+considered unhealthy, and called forth many learned discussions.</p>
+<p>
+Returning to the east bank, we see above Tarrytown 
+many superb residences, notably "Rockwood," the home
+of William Rockefeller, of the Standard Oil Company.
+The estate of General James Watson Webb is also near at
+hand. Passing Scarborough Landing, with the Hook
+Mountain and Ball Mountains on the left, we see</p>
+<p><a name="p73" id="p73"></a>
+<b>Ossining</b>, formerly known as Sing Sing, on east bank.
+The low buildings, near the river bank, are the State's
+Prison. They are constructed of marble, but are not
+considered palatial by the prisoners that occupy the cells.
+It was quarried near by, and the prisons were built by
+convicts imported from Auburn in 1826. Saddlery, furniture,
+shoes, etc., are manufactured within its walls.
+There was an Indian chieftancy here known as the Sintsinks.
+In a deed to Philip Phillipse in 1685 a stream is 
+referred to as "Kitchewan called by the Indians Sink-Sink."
+The Indian Village was known as Ossining, from
+"ossin" a stone and "ing" a place, probably so called
+from the rocky and stony character of the river banks.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>How many, at this hour, along thy course,</p>
+<p>Slumber to thine eternal murmurings</p>
+<p>That mingle with the utterance of their dreams.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page74" id="page74"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;74]</span>
+<p>
+The heights above Tappan Zee at this point are crowned
+by fine residences, and the village is one of the pleasantest
+on the river. The drives among the hills are delightful
+and present a wide and charming outlook. Here also are
+several flourishing military boarding schools and a seminary
+for girls. The old silver and copper mines once
+worked here never yielded satisfactory returns for invested
+capital. Various industries give active life and prosperity
+to the town. Just above Sing Sing</p>
+<p><a name="p74" id="p74"></a>
+<b>Croton River</b>, known by the Indians as Kitchawonk,
+joins the Hudson in a bay crossed by the <i>New York Central
+Railroad</i> Croton draw-bridge. East of this point is
+a water shed having an area of 350 square miles, which
+supplies New York with water. The Croton Reservoir
+is easily reached by a pleasant carriage drive from Sing
+Sing, and it is a singular fact that the pitcher and ice-cooler
+of New York, or in other words, Croton Dam and
+Rockland Lake, should be almost opposite. About fifty
+years ago the Croton first made its appearance in New
+York, brought in by an aqueduct of solid masonry which
+follows the course of the Hudson near the Old Post Road,
+or at an average distance of about a mile from the east
+bank. Here and there its course can be traced by "white
+stone ventilating towers" from Sing Sing to High Bridge,
+which conveys the aqueduct across the Harlem River.
+Its capacity is 100,000,000 gallons per day, which however
+began to be inadequate for the city and a new aqueduct
+was therefore begun in 1884 and completed in 1890,
+capable of carrying three times that amount, at a cost
+of $25,000,000. The water-shed is well supplied with
+streams and lakes. Lake Mahopac, one of its fountains,
+is one of the most beautiful sheets of water near the
+metropolis, and easily accessible by a pleasant drive from
+Peekskill, or by the <i>Harlem Railroad</i> from New York.
+The old Indian name was Ma-cook-pake, signifying a
+large inland lake, or perhaps an island near the shore.
+The same derivation is also seen in Copake Lake, Columbia<a name="page75" id="page75"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;75]</span>
+County. On an island of Mahopac the last great
+"convention" of the southern tribes of the Hudson
+was held. The lake is about 800 feet above tide, and
+it is pleasant to know that the bright waters of Mahopac
+and the clear streams of Putnam and Westchester are
+conveyed to New York even as the poetic waters of Loch
+Katrine to the city of Glasgow. The Catskill water
+supply, the ground of which was broken in 1907, is referred
+to in our description of Cold Spring and the
+Catskills.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Round the aqueducts of story</p>
+    <p class="i2">As the mists of Lethe throng</p>
+  <p>Croton's waves in all their glory</p>
+    <p class="i2">Troop in melody along.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i16"><i>George P. Morris.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="map2" id="map2"></a>
+<p class="center"><b>Map of the Hudson River from Croton to Hyde Park.</b><br /><br />
+<a href="images/map3ab-1000.png"><img src="images/map3ab-124.png" width="124" height="600" alt="Map of Hudson River from Croton to Hyde Park." border="0" /></a>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+Just above Croton Bay and the <i>New York Central Railroad</i>
+draw-bridge will be seen the old Van Cortlandt
+Manor, where Frederick Phillipse and Katrina Van Cortlandt
+were married, as seen by the inscription on the old
+Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Teller's Point</b> (sometimes known as Croton or Underhill's
+Point), separates Tappan Zee from Haverstraw
+Bay. It was called by the Indians "Senasqua." Tradition
+says that ancient warriors still haunt the surrounding
+glens and woods, and the sachems of Teller's Point
+are household words in the neighborhood. It is also said
+that there was once a great Indian battle here, and
+perhaps the ghosts of the old warriors are attracted by
+the Underhill grapery and the 10,000 gallons of wine
+bottled every season.</p>
+<p>
+It was here the British warship "The Vulture," came
+with Andre and put him ashore at the foot of Mount Tor
+below Haverstraw.</p>
+<p>
+The river now opens into a beautiful bay, four miles
+in width,&mdash;a bed large enough to tuck up fifteen River
+Rhines side by side. This reach sometimes seems in the
+bright sunlight like a molten bay of silver, and the
+tourist finds relief in adjusting his smoked glasses to
+temper the dazzling light.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Beneath these gold and azure skies</p>
+    <p class="i2">The river winds through leafy glades,</p>
+  <p>Save where, like battlements, arise</p>
+    <p class="i2">The gray and tufted Palisades.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="p75" id="p75"></a>
+<b>Haverstraw</b>, 37 miles from New York. Haverstraw
+Bay is sometimes said to be five miles wide. Its widest
+point, however, from Croton Landing to Haverstraw, is,<a name="page76" id="page76"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;76]</span>
+according to United States Geological Survey, a little over
+four miles. The principal industry of Haverstraw is
+brick-making, and its brick yards reaching north to Grassy
+Point, are of materal profit, if not picturesque. The
+place was called Haverstraw by the Dutch, perhaps as a
+place of rye straw, to distinguish it from Tarrytown, a
+place of wheat. The Indian name has been lost; but,
+if its original derivation is uncertain, it at least calls
+up the rhyme of old-time river captains, which Captain
+Anderson of the "Mary Powell" told the writer he used
+to hear frequently when a boy:</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"West Point and Middletown,</p>
+<p>Konnosook and Doodletown,</p>
+<p>Kakiak and Mamapaw,</p>
+<p>Stony Point and Haverstraw."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Quaint as these names now sound, they all are found
+on old maps of the Hudson.</p>
+<p>
+High Torn is the name of the northern point of the
+Ramapo on the west bank, south of Haverstraw. According
+to the Coast Survey, it is 820 feet above tide-water,
+and the view from the summit is grand and extensive.
+The origin of the name is not clear, but it has
+lately occurred to the writer, from a re-reading of Scott's
+"Peveril of the Peak," that it might have been named
+from the Torn, a mountain in Derbyshire, either from
+its appearance, or by some patriotic settler from the
+central water-shed of England. Others say it is the
+Devonshire word Tor changed to Torn, evidently derived
+from the same source.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Emerging from these confused piles, the river as if</p>
+<p>rejoicing at its release from its struggle, expanded into</p>
+<p>a wide bay, which was ornamented by a few fertile and</p>
+<p>low points that jutted humbly into its broad basin.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>James Fenimore Cooper.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>West Shore Railroad.</b>&mdash;The tourist will see at this
+point, on the left bank of the river, the tunnel whereby
+the "West Shore" finds egress from the mountains. The
+traveler over this railway, on emerging from the quiet
+valley west of the Palisades, comes upon a sudden vision
+of beauty unrivaled in any land. The broad river seems
+like a great inland lake; and the height of the tunnel<a name="page77" id="page77"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;77]</span>
+above the silver bay gives to the panoramic landscape a
+wondrous charm. About a mile from the river, southwest
+of Grassy Point, on the farther side of the winding Minnissickuongo
+Creek, which finally after long meandering
+makes up its mind to glide into Stony Point Bay, will be
+seen Treason Hill marked by the Joshua Hett Smith stone
+house where Arnold and Andre met. The story of this
+meeting will be referred to at greater length in connection
+with its most dramatic incident at the old Beverley
+House in the Highlands. The Hudson here is about two
+miles in width and narrows rapidly as we pass Grassy
+Point on the west bank with its meadows and brick
+yards to</p>
+<p><a name="p77" id="p77"></a>
+<b>Stony Point</b>, where it is scarcely more than half a mile
+to Verplank's Point on the eastern bank. This was,
+therefore, an important pass during the Revolution. The
+crossing near at hand was known as King's Ferry, at
+and before the days of '76, and was quite an avenue of
+travel between the Southern, Middle and Eastern States.
+The fort crowning a commanding headland, was captured
+by the British, June 1, 1779, but it was surprised and
+recaptured by Anthony Wayne, July 15 of the same year.
+A centennial was observed at the place July 15, 1879,
+when the battle was "refought" and the West Point
+Cadets showed how they would have done it if they had
+been on hand a century ago. Thackeray, in his "Virginians,"
+gives perhaps the most graphic account of this
+midnight battle. The present light-house occupies the
+site of the old fort, and was built in part of stone taken
+from its walls. Upon its capture by the British, Washington,
+whose headquarters were at New Windsor, meditated
+a bold stroke and summoned Anthony Wayne, more
+generally known as "Mad Anthony," from his reckless
+daring, to undertake its recapture with a force of one
+thousand picked men. The lines were formed in two
+columns about 8 p.m. at "Springsteel's farm." Each
+soldier and officer put a piece of white paper in his hat<a name="page78" id="page78"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;78]</span>
+to distinguish him from the foe. No guns were to be
+loaded under penalty of death. General Wayne, at the
+head of the column, forded the marsh covered at the time
+with two feet of water. The other column led by Butler
+and Murfree crossed an apology for a bridge. During
+the advance both columns were discovered by the British
+sentinels and the rocky defense literally blazed with
+musketry. In stern silence, however, without faltering,
+the American columns moved forward, entered the abatis,
+until the advance guard under Anthony Wayne was within
+the enemy's works. A bullet at this moment struck Wayne
+in the forehead grazing his skull. Quickly recovering
+from the shock, he rose to his knees, shouted: "Forward,
+my brave fellows"; then turning to two of his followers,
+he asked them to help him into the fort that he might
+die, if it were to be so, "in possession of the spot." Both
+columns were now at hand and inspired by the brave
+general, came pouring in, crying "The fort's our own."
+The British troops completely overwhelmed, were fain to
+surrender and called for mercy. Wayne's characteristic
+message to Washington antedates modern telegraphic
+brevity:&mdash;"Stony Point, 2 o'clock a.m. The American
+flag waves here.&mdash;Mad Anthony." There were twenty
+killed and sixty wounded on each side. Some five hundred
+of the enemy were captured and about sixty escaped.
+"Money rewards and medals were given to Wayne and
+the leaders in the assault. The ordinance and stores captured
+were appraised at over $180,000 and there was
+universal rejoicing" throughout the land. "Stony Point
+State Park" was dedicated by appropriate ceremony July
+16, 1902. At the close of Governor Odell's address the
+flag was raised by William Wayne, a lineal descendant
+of the hero, and the cruiser "Olympia" of Manila fame
+boomed forth her tribute. Verplank's Point, on the
+east bank (now full of brick-making establishments), was
+the site of Fort Lafayette. It was here that Baron Steuben
+drilled the soldiers of the American army. Back<a name="page79" id="page79"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;79]</span>
+from Green Cove above Verplanck's Point is "Knickerbocker
+Lake."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The star spangled banner, the flag of the brave,</p>
+<p>And the cross of old England in amity wave,</p>
+<p>But if ever the nations do battle again</p>
+<p>God send us such soldiers as Anthony Wayne.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Minna Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The echoes that so boldly rung</p>
+    <p class="i2">When cannon flashed from steep to steep,</p>
+  <p>And freedom's airy challenge flung,</p>
+    <p class="i2">In each romantic valley sleep.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+<b>Tompkin's Cove.</b>&mdash;North of Stony Point we see great
+quarries of limestone, the principal industry of the village
+of Tompkin's Cove. Gravel is also shipped from this
+place for Central Park roads and driveways in New York
+City. The tourist, looking north from the forward deck
+of the steamer, sees no opening in the mountains, and it
+is amusing to hear the various conjectures of the passengers;
+as usual, the "unexpected" happens. The
+steamer turns to the left and sweeps at once into the
+grand scenery of the Highlands. The straight forward
+course, which seems the more natural, would land the
+steamer against the <i>Hudson River Railroad</i>, crossing the
+Peekskill River. It is said that an old skipper, Jans
+Peek, ran up this stream, years before the railroad was
+built, and did not know that he had left the Hudson,
+or rather that the Hudson was "left" until he ran aground
+in the shoal water of the bay. The next morning he
+discovered that it was a goodly land, and the place bears
+his name unto this day.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The Highlands and the Palisades</p>
+    <p class="i2">Mirror their beauty in the tide,</p>
+  <p>The history of whose forest shades</p>
+    <p class="i2">A nation reads with conscious pride.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p79" id="p79"></a>
+<b>Peekskill</b>, 40 miles from New York, is a pleasant city
+on the quiet bay which deeply indents the eastern bank.
+The property in this vicinity was known as Rycks Patent
+in 1665. In Revolutionary times Fort Independence stood
+on the point above, where its ruins are still seen. The
+Franciscan Convent Academy of "Our Lady of Angels,"
+guards the point below. In 1797 Peekskill was the headquarters
+of old Israel Putnam, who rivaled "Mad Anthony"
+in brevity as well as courage. It will be remembered
+that Palmer was here captured as a spy. A British
+officer wrote a letter asking his reprieve, to which Putnam
+replied, "Nathan Palmer was taken as a spy, tried
+as a spy and will be hanged as a spy. P. S.&mdash;He is
+hanged." This was the birthplace of Paulding, one of
+Andre's captors, and he died here in 1818. He is buried
+in the old rural cemetery about two miles and a half<a name="page80" id="page80"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;80]</span>
+from the village, and a monument has been erected to
+his memory. Near at hand is the "Wayside Inn," where
+Andre once "tarried," also the Hillside Cemetery, where
+on June 19, 1898, the 123d anniversary of the battle of
+Bunker Hill, a monument was unveiled to General Pomeroy
+by the Society of the Sons of Revolution, New York.
+The church which Washington attended is in good preservation.</p>
+<p>
+Near Peekskill is the old Van Cortlandt house, the residence
+of Washington for a short time during the Revolution.
+East of the village was the summer home of the
+great pulpit orator, Henry Ward Beecher. Peekskill was
+known by the Indians as Sackhoes in the territory of the
+Kitchawongo, which extended from Croton River to Anthony's
+Nose.</p>
+
+<p>
+Turning Caldwell's Landing or Jones' Point, formerly
+known as Kidd's Point, almost at right angles, the steamer
+enters the southern gate of the Highlands. At the water
+edge will be seen some upright planks or caissons marking
+the spot where Kidd's ship was supposed to have been
+scuttled. As his history seems to be intimately associated
+with the Hudson, we will give it in brief:</p>
+<p><a name="p80" id="p80"></a>
+<b>The Story of Captain Kidd.</b>&mdash;"My name was Captain
+Kidd as I sailed," are famous lines of an old ballad
+which was once familiar to our grandfathers. The hapless
+hero of the same was born about the middle of the
+seventeenth century, and it is thought, near Greenock,
+Scotland. He resided at one time in New York, near
+the corner of William and Cedar Streets, and was there
+married. In April, 1696, he sailed from England in command
+of the "Adventure Galley," with full armament and
+eighty men. He captured a French ship, and, on arrival
+at New York, put up articles for volunteers; remained
+in New York three or four months, increasing his crew
+to one hundred and fifty-five men, and sailed thence to
+Madras, thence to Bonavista and St. Jago, Madagascar,
+then to Calicut, then to Madagascar again, then sailed<a name="page81" id="page81"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;81]</span>
+and took the "Quedah Merchant." Kidd kept forty shares
+of the spoils, and divided the rest with his crew. He
+then burned the "Adventure Galley," went on board the
+"Quedah Merchant," and steered for the West Indies.
+Here he left the "Merchant," with part of his crew,
+under one Bolton, as commander. Then manned a sloop,
+and taking part of his spoils, went to Boston via Long
+Island Sound, and is said to have set goods on shore
+at different places. In the meantime, in August, 1698,
+the East Indian Company informed the Lords Justice
+that Kidd had committed several acts of piracy, particularly
+in seizing a Moor's ship called the "Quedah
+Merchant." When Kidd landed at Boston he was therefore
+arrested by the Earl of Bellamont, and sent to England
+for trial, 1699, where he was found guilty and
+executed. Now it is supposed that the crew of the
+"Quedah Merchant," which Kidd left at Hispaniola,
+sailed for their homes, as the crew was mostly gathered
+from the Highlands and above.<a name="p81" id="p81"></a> It is said that they
+passed New York in the night, <i>en route</i> to the manor
+of Livingston; but encountering a gale in the Highlands,
+and thinking they were pursued, ran her near the shore,
+now known as Kidd's Point, and here scuttled her, the
+crew fleeing to the woods with such treasure as they could
+carry. Whether this circumstance was true or not, it
+was at least a current story in the neighborhood, and
+an enterprising individual, about fifty years ago, <i>caused
+an old cannon</i> to be "discovered" in the river, and perpetrated
+the first "Cardiff Giant Hoax." A New York
+Stock Company was organized to prosecute the work. It
+was said that the ship could be seen in clear days, with
+her masts still standing, many fathoms below the surface.
+One thing is certain&mdash;the company did not see it or the
+<i>treasurer</i> either, in whose hands were deposited about
+$30,000.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Beauty and majesty on either hand</p>
+<p>Have shared thy waters with their common realm.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Knickerbocker Magazine.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-081-1115.png"><img src="images/illus-081-600.png" width="600" height="378" alt="SOUTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>SOUTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Their summits are the first to meet</p>
+     <p class="i2">The morning's golden ray,</p>
+  <p>And last to catch the crimson fires</p>
+    <p class="i2">That warm the dying day.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Minna Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+On the west shore rise the rock-beaten crags of&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p82" id="p82"></a>
+<b>The Dunderberg</b>, the dread of the Dutch mariners.<a name="page82" id="page82"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;82]</span>
+This hill, according to Irving, was peopled with a multitude
+of imps, too great for man to number, who wore 
+sugar-loaf hats and short doublets, and had a picturesque 
+way of "tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist." 
+They were especially malignant toward all captains who
+failed to do them reverence, and brought down frightful
+squalls on such craft as failed to drop the peaks of their
+mainsails to the goblin who presided over this shadowy
+republic. It was the dread of the early navigators&mdash;in
+fact, the Olympus of Dutch mythology. Verditege Hook,
+the Dunderberg, and the Overslaugh, were names of
+terror to even the bravest skipper. The old burghers of
+New York never thought of making their week's voyage
+to Albany without arranging their wills, and it created
+as much commotion in New Amsterdam as a modern
+expedition to the north pole. Dunderberg, in most of
+the Hudson Guides and Maps, is put down as 1,098 feet,
+but its actual altitude by the latest United States Geological
+Survey is 865 feet.</p>
+<p>
+The State National Guard Encampment crowns a bluff,
+formerly known as Roa Hook, on the east bank, north
+of Peekskill Bay, a happy location in the midst of history
+and beauty. Every regiment in the State rallies here
+in turn during the summer months for instruction in
+the military art, living in tents and enjoying life in true
+army style. Visitors are cordially greeted at proper hours,
+and the camp is easily reached by ferry from Peekskill.
+A ferry also runs from Peekskill to Dunderberg, affording
+a hillside outing and a delightful view. It is expected
+that a spiral railroad, fourteen miles in length, undertaken
+by a recently organized corporation, but abandoned
+for the present, will make the spot a great Hudson River
+resort. The plan also embraces a palatial hotel on the
+summit and pleasure grounds upon the point at its base.
+Passing Manito Mountain on our right the steamer approaches</p>
+<p><a name="p83" id="p83"></a>
+<b>Anthony's Nose</b>, a prominent feature of the Hudson.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The waters were hemmed in by abrupt and dark</p>
+<p>mountains, but the channel was still broad and smooth</p>
+<p>enough for all the steamboats in the Republic to ride</p>
+<p>in safety.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Harriet Martineau.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-089-1120.png"><img src="images/illus-089-600.png" width="600" height="378" alt="ANTHONY'S NOSE." border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>ANTHONY'S NOSE.</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+<a name="page83" id="page83"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;83]</span>
+<p>
+Strangely enough the altitude of the mountains at the 
+southern portal of the Highlands has been greatly overrated. 
+The formerly accepted height of Anthony's Nose
+has been reduced by the Geological Survey from 1,228
+feet to 900. It has, however, an illustrious christening,
+and according to various historians several godfathers.
+One says it was named after St. Anthony the Great,
+the first institutor of monastic life, born A.D. 251, at
+Coma, in Heraclea, a town in Upper Egypt. Irving's
+humorous account is, however, quite as probable that it
+was <i>derived</i> from the nose of Antony Van Corlear, the
+illustrious trumpeter of Peter Stuyvesant. "Now thus
+it happened that bright and early in the morning the
+good Antony, having washed his burly visage, was leaning
+over the quarter-railing of the galley, contemplating
+it in the glassy waves below. Just at this moment the
+illustrious sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind
+a high bluff of the Highlands, did dart one of his most
+potent beams full upon the refulgent <i>nose</i> of the sounder
+of brass, the reflection of which shot straightway down
+hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon
+that was sporting beside the vessel. When this astonishing
+miracle was made known to the Governor, and he
+tasted of the unknown fish, he marveled exceedingly; and,
+as a monument thereof, he gave the name of Anthony's
+Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood, and it
+has continued to be called Anthony's Nose ever since." It
+was called by the Indians "Kittatenny," a Delaware term,
+signifying "endless hills." The stream flowing into the
+river south of Anthony's Nose is known as the Brocken
+Kill, broken into beautiful cascades from mountain source
+to mouth.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The beautiful and in some places highly singular</p>
+<p>banks of the Hudson rendered a voyage both amusing</p>
+<p>and interesting, while the primitive manners of the inhabitants</p>
+<p>diverted the gay and idle and pleased the</p>
+<p>thoughtful and speculative.</p>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Mrs. Grant of Laggan.</i></p></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Iona Island</b>, formerly a pleasure resort and picnic
+ground. An old-time joke of the Hudson was frequently
+perpetrated on strangers while passing the island. Some
+one would innocently observe, "I own a island on the
+Hudson." When any one obligingly asked, "Where?" the<a name="page84" id="page84"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;84]</span>
+reply would be with pointed finger, "Why there." But
+the United States Government <i>owns</i> it now against all
+comers, and its quiet lanes and picnic abandon have
+been exchanged for busy machine shops and military discipline.
+It is near the west bank, opposite Anthony's Nose.
+A short distance from the island, on the main land, was
+the village or cross-roads of Doodletown. This reach of
+the river was formerly known as The Horse Race, from
+the rapid flow of the tide when at its height. The hills
+on the west bank now recede from the river, forming a
+picturesque amphitheatre, bounded on the west by Bear
+Mountain. An old road directly in the rear of Iona
+Island, better known to Anthony Wayne than to the
+modern tourist, passes through Doodletown, over Dunderberg,
+just west of Tompkin's Cove, to Haverstraw.
+Here amid these pleasant foothills Morse laid the scene
+of a historical romance, which he however happily abandoned
+for a wider invention. The world can get along
+without the novel, but it would be a trifle slow without
+the telegraph. On the west bank, directly opposite the
+railroad tunnel which puts a merry "ring" into the tip
+of Anthony's Nose, is what is now known as Highland
+Lake, called by the Indians "Sinnipink," and by the
+immediate descendants of our Revolutionary fathers "Hessian
+Lake" or "Bloody Pond," from the fact that an
+American company were mercilessly slaughtered here by
+the Hessians, and, after the surrender of Fort Montgomery,
+their bodies were thrown into the lake.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Behold again the wildwood shade,</p>
+<p>The mountain steep, the checkered glade,</p>
+<p>And hoary rocks and bubbling rills,</p>
+<p>And pointed waves and distant hills.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p84" id="p84"></a>
+The capture of Fort Clinton and Fort Montgomery was
+two years before Mad Anthony's successful assault on
+Stony Point. Early in the history of the Revolution, the
+British Government thought that it would be possible
+to cut off the eastern from the middle and southern Colonies
+by capturing and garrisoning commanding points
+along the Hudson and Lake Champlain. It was therefore
+decided in London, in the spring of 1777, to have Sir
+Henry Clinton approach from the south and Burgoyne<a name="page85" id="page85"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;85]</span>
+from the north. Reinforcements, however, arrived late
+from England and it was September before Clinton transported
+his troops, about 4,000 in number, in warships
+and flat-boats up the river. Governor George Clinton was
+in charge of Fort Montgomery, and his brother James
+of Fort Clinton, while General Putnam, with about 2,000
+men, had his headquarters at Peekskill. In addition to
+these forts, a chain was stretched across the Hudson from
+Anthony's Nose to a point near the present railroad
+bridge, to obstruct the British fleet. General Putnam,
+however, became convinced that Sir Henry Clinton proposed
+to attack Fort Independence. Most of the troops
+were accordingly withdrawn from Forts Montgomery and
+Clinton, when Sir Henry Clinton, taking advantage of
+a morning fog, crossed with 2,000 men at King's Ferry.
+Guided by a sympathizer of the British cause, who knew
+the district, he crossed the Dunderberg Mountain by
+the road just indicated. One division of 900 moving on
+Fort Montgomery, and another of 1,100 on Fort Clinton.
+Governor Clinton in the meantime ordered 400 soldiers
+to Fort Montgomery, and his reconnoitering party, met by
+the Hessians, fell back upon the fort, fighting as it
+retreated. Governor Clinton sent to General Putnam for
+reinforcements, but it is said that the messenger deserted,
+so that Putnam literally sat waiting in camp, unconscious
+of the enemy's movements. A simultaneous attack
+was made at 5 o'clock in the afternoon on both forts.
+Lossing says: "The garrisons were composed mostly of
+untrained militia. They behaved nobly, and kept up the
+defense vigorously, against a greatly superior force of
+disciplined and veteran soldiers, until twilight, when they
+were overpowered, and sought safety in a scattered retreat
+to the neighboring mountains. Many escaped, but a considerable
+number were slain or made prisoners. The
+Governor fled across the river in a boat, and at midnight
+was with General Putnam at Continental Village, concerting
+measures for stopping the invasion. James, forcing<a name="page86" id="page86"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;86]</span>
+his way to the rear, across the highway bridge,
+received a bayonet wound in the thigh, but safely reached
+his home at New Windsor. A sloop of ten guns, the
+frigate "Montgomery"&mdash;twenty-four guns&mdash;and two row-galleys,
+stationed near the boom and chain for their protection,
+slipped their cables and attempted to escape, but
+there was no wind to fill their sails, and they were
+burned by the Americans to prevent their falling into
+the hands of the enemy. The frigate "Congress," twenty-eight
+guns, which had already gone up the river, shared
+the same fate on the flats near Fort Constitution, which
+was abandoned. By the light of the burning vessels the
+fugitive garrisons made their way over the rugged mountains,
+and a large portion of them joined General Clinton
+at New Windsor the next day. They had left many of
+their brave companions behind, who, to the number of
+250, had been slain or taken prisoners. The British, too,
+had parted with many men and brave officers. Among
+the latter was Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell. Early in the
+morning of the 7th of October, the river obstructions
+between Fort Montgomery and Anthony's Nose, which
+cost the Americans $250,000, were destroyed, and a light
+flying squadron, commanded by Sir James Wallace, and
+bearing a large number of land troops under General
+Vaughan, sailed up the river on a marauding expedition,
+with instructions from Sir Henry to scatter desolation in
+their paths. It was hoped that such an expedition would
+draw troops from the Northern army for the protection
+of the country below, and thereby assist Burgoyne."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>I love thy tempests when the broad-winged blast</p>
+    <p class="i2">Rouses thy billows with his battle call,</p>
+  <p>When gathering clouds, in phalanx black and vast</p>
+    <p class="i2">Like armed shadows gird thy rocky wall.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Knickerbocker Magazine.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Sir Henry Clinton, who had been advised by General
+Burgoyne that he must be relieved by October 12th, sent
+a messenger announcing his victory. Another of the many
+special providences of the American Revolution now occurs.
+The messenger blundered into the American camp, where
+some soldiers sat in British uniform, and found out too
+late that he was among enemies instead of friends. As
+Irving relates the incident in his "Life of Washington":</p>
+<a name="page87" id="page87"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;87]</span>
+<p>
+&mdash;"On the 9th (October) two persons coming from Fort
+Montgomery were arrested by the guard, and brought for
+examination. One was much agitated, and was observed
+to put something hastily into his mouth and swallow it.
+An emetic was administered, and brought up a silver
+bullet. Before he could be prevented he swallowed it
+again. On his refusing a second emetic, the Governor
+threatened to have him hanged and his body opened.
+This threat was effectual and the bullet was again 'brought
+to light.' It was oval in form, and hollow, with a screw
+in the centre, and contained a note from Sir Henry
+Clinton to Burgoyne, written on a slip of thin paper,
+and dated October 8th, from Fort Montgomery: '<i>Nous
+y voici</i> (here we are), and nothing between us and Gates.
+I sincerely hope this little success of ours will facilitate
+your operations.' Burgoyne never received it, and on
+October 13th, after the battles of Bennington and Saratoga,
+surrendered to General Gates. Sir Henry Clinton
+abandoned the forts on hearing of his defeat, and returned
+to New York 'a sadder and wiser man.'"</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Columbia! Columbia! to glory arise,</p>
+<p>The queen of the earth and the child of the skies.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Timothy Dwight.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Far up the Hudson's silver flood</p>
+  <p class="i2">I hear the Highlands call</p>
+<p>With whispering of leafy boughs</p>
+  <p class="i2">And voice of waterfall.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Minna Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p87" id="p87"></a>
+<b>Beverley House.</b>&mdash;Passing Cohn's Hook, pronounced
+Connosook, where Hendrick Hudson anchored on his way
+up the river September 14, 1609, we see before us on the
+right bank a point coming down to the shore marked by
+a boat house. This is Beverley Dock, and directly up
+the river bank about an eighth of a mile stood the old
+Beverley House, where Benedict Arnold had his headquarters
+when in command of West Point. The old house,
+a good specimen of colonial times, was unfortunately
+burned in 1892, and with it went the most picturesque
+landmark of the most dramatic incident of the Revolution.
+It will be remembered that Arnold returned to the
+Beverley House after his midnight interview with Andre
+at Haverstraw, and immediately upon the capture of
+Andre the following day, that Colonel Jamison sent a
+letter to Arnold, advising him of the fact. It was the
+morning of September 4th. General Washington was on<a name="page88" id="page88"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;88]</span>
+his way to West Point, coming across the country from
+Connecticut. On arriving, however, at the river, just
+above the present station of Garrison, he became interested
+in examining some defenses, and sent Alexander
+Hamilton forward to the Beverley House, saying that he
+would come later, requesting the family to proceed with
+their breakfast and not to await his arrival. Alexander
+Hamilton and General Lafayette sat gayly chatting with
+Mrs. Arnold and her husband when the letter from Jamison
+was received. Arnold glanced at the contents, rose
+and excused himself from the table, beckoning to his wife
+to follow him, bade her good-bye, told her he was a
+ruined man and a traitor, kissed his little boy in the
+cradle, rode to Beverley Dock, and ordered his men to
+pull off and go down the river. The "Vulture," an English
+man-of-war, was near Teller's Point, and received
+a traitor, whose miserable treachery branded him with
+eternal infamy on both continents. It is said that he lived
+long enough to be hissed in the House of Commons, as
+he once took his seat in the gallery, and he died friendless
+and despised. It is also said, when Talleyrand
+arrived in Havre on foot from Paris, in the darkest hour
+of the French Revolution, pursued by the bloodhounds
+of the reign of terror, and was about to secure a passage
+to the United States, he asked the landlord of the hotel
+whether any Americans were staying at his house, as he
+was going across the water, and would like a letter to
+a person of influence in the New World. "There is a
+gentleman up-stairs from Britain or America," was the
+response. He pointed the way, and Talleyrand ascended
+the stairs. In a dimly lighted room sat a man of whom
+the great minister of France was to ask a favor. He
+advanced, and poured forth in elegant French and broken
+English, "I am a wanderer, and an exile. I am forced
+to fly to the New World without a friend or home. You
+are an American. Give me, then, I beseech you, a letter
+of yours, so that I may be able to earn my bread." The<a name="page89" id="page89"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;89]</span>
+strange gentleman rose. With a look that Talleyrand
+never forgot, he retreated toward the door of the next
+chamber. He spoke as he retreated, and his voice was 
+full of suffering: "I am the only man of the New World
+who can raise his hand to God and say, 'I have not a
+friend, not one, in America!'" "Who are you?" he cried&mdash;"your 
+name?" "My name is Benedict Arnold!"</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Wayne, Putnam, Knox and Heath are there,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Steuben, proud Prussia's honored son;</p>
+  <p>Brave Lafayette from France the fair,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And chief of all our Washington.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Andre's fate on the other hand was widely lamented.
+He was universally beloved by his comrades and possessed
+a rich fund of humor which often bubbled over in verse.
+It is a strange coincidence that his best poetic attempt
+on one of Anthony Wayne's exploits near Fort Lee,
+entitled "The Cow Chase," closed with a graphically prophetic
+verse:</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>"And now I've closed my epic strain,</p>
+    <p class="i2">I tremble as I show it,</p>
+  <p>Lest this same Warrior-Drover Wayne</p>
+    <p class="i2">Should ever catch the poet."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+By a singular coincidence he did: General Wayne was
+in command of the Tarrytown and Tappan country where
+Andre was captured and executed. It is also said that
+these lines were published by one of the Tory papers in
+New York the very day of Andre's capture. One of the
+old-time characters on the Hudson, known as Uncle Richard,
+has recently thrown new light on the capture of
+Andre by claiming, with a touch of genuine humor, that
+it was entirely due to the "effects" of cider which had
+been freely "dispensed" that day by a certain Mr. Horton,
+a farmer in the neighborhood.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>In view of all he lost,&mdash;his youth, his love,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And possibilities that wait the brave,</p>
+  <p>Inward and outward bound dim visions move</p>
+    <p class="i2">Like passing sails upon the Hudson's wave.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Charlotte Fiske Bates.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+It is impossible even in these later years, not to speak
+of twenty-five or fifty years ago, to travel along the
+shores of Haverstraw Bay or among the passes of the
+Highlands, without hearing some old-time stories about
+Arnold and Andre, and it would be strange indeed if a
+little romance had not here and there become blended
+with the real facts. Uncle Richard's account is undoubtedly<a name="page90" id="page90"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;90]</span>
+the best since the days of Knickerbocker. "Benedict
+Arnold, you know, had command of West Point, and he
+knew that the place was essential to the success of the
+Continental cause. He plotted, as everybody knows, to
+turn it over to the enemy, and in the correspondence
+which he carried on with General Clinton, young Andre,
+Clinton's aid, did all the writing. Things were coming
+to a focus, when a meeting took place between Arnold
+and Clinton's representative, Andre, at the house of
+Joshua Hett Smith, near Haverstraw. Andre came on the
+British ship "Vulture," which he left at Croton Point,
+in Haverstraw Bay. Well," so runs Uncle Richard's
+story, "it took a long time to get matters settled; they
+'confabbed' till after daybreak. Then Arnold started
+back to the post which he had plotted to surrender. But
+daylight was no time for Andre to return to the "Vulture,"
+so he hung round waiting for night.</p>
+<p>
+"During that day, some men who were working for
+James Horton, a farmer on the ridge overlooking the
+river, who gave his men good rations of cider, drank
+a little too much of the hard stuff. They felt good, and
+thought it would be a fine joke to load and fire off an
+old disabled cannon which lay a mile or so away on the
+bank. They hauled it to the point now called Cockroft
+Point, propped it up, and then the spirit of fun&mdash;and
+hard cider&mdash;prompted them to train the old piece on the
+British ship "Vulture," lying at anchor in the Bay. The
+"Vulture's" people must have overestimated the source
+of the fire, for the ship dropped down the river, and
+Andre had to abandon the idea of returning by that
+means. He crossed the river at King's Ferry, and while
+on his way overland was captured at Tarrytown.</p>
+<p>
+"Of course, the three brave men who refused to be
+bribed deserve all the glory they ever had; if it were
+not for them, who knows but the revolutionary war would
+have had a different ending. But they never would have
+had a chance to capture Andre if it had not been for<a name="page91" id="page91"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;91]</span>
+James Horton's men warming up on hard cider. Hard
+cider broke the plans of Arnold, it hung Andre, and it
+saved West Point." A boy misguided Grouchy <i>en route</i>
+to Waterloo. On what small hinges turn the destinies
+of nations!</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A slanting ray lingered on the woody crests of the</p>
+<p>precipices that overhung the river, giving greater depth</p>
+<p>to the dark-gray and purple of the rocky sides.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Washington Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+All the way from Anthony's Nose to Beverley Dock,
+where we have been lingering over the story of Andre,
+we have been literally turning a kaleidoscope of blended
+history and beauty, with scarcely time to note the delightful
+homes on the west bank, just above Fort Montgomery.
+Among them J. Pierpont Morgan's and the Pells', John
+Bigelow's and "Benny Havens'," or on the east bank of
+Hamilton Fish, just above Beverley Dock, Samuel Sloan
+and the late William H. Osborn, just north of Sugar Loaf
+Mountain; the mountain being so named as it resembles,
+to one coming up the river, the old-fashioned conical-shaped
+sugar-loaf, which was formerly suspended by a
+string over the centre of the hospitable Dutch tables, and
+swung around to be occasionally nibbled at, which in
+good old Knickerbocker days, was thought to be the best
+and only orthodox way of sweetening tea.</p>
+<p><a name="p91" id="p91"></a>
+<b>Buttermilk Falls</b>, so christened by Washington Irving,
+is a pretty little cascade on the west bank. Like sparkling
+wit, it is often dry, and the tourist is exceptionally fortunate
+who sees it in full-dress costume after a heavy
+shower, when it rushes over the rocks in floods of snow-white
+foam. Highland Falls is the name of a small
+village a short distance west of the river, on the bluff,
+but not seen from the deck of the steamer.</p>
+<p>
+The large building above the rocky channel is Lady
+Cliff, the Academy of Our Lady of Angels, under the
+Franciscan Sisters at Peekskill, opened September, 1900.
+It was originally built for a hotel, and widely known
+as Cranston's Hotel and Landing. As the steamer is
+now approaching the west bank we see above us the
+Cullum Memorial Hall, completed in 1899, a bequest of
+the late George W. Cullum of the class of 1833. The still<a name="page92" id="page92"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;92]</span>
+newer structure to the south is the officers' messroom,
+crowning the crest above the landing.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Then, as you nearer draw, each wooded height</p>
+<p>Puts off the azure hues by distance given!</p>
+<p>And slowly breaks upon the enamored sight,</p>
+<p>Ravine, crag, field and wood in colors true and bright.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Theodore S. Fay.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p92" id="p92"></a>
+<b>West Point</b>, taken all in all, is the most beautiful tourist
+spot on the Hudson. Excursionists by the Day Boats from
+New York, returning by afternoon steamer, have three
+hours to visit the various places of history and beauty.
+To make an easy mathematical formula or picturesque
+"rule of three" statement, what Quebec is to the St.
+Lawrence, West Point is to the Hudson. If the citadel
+of Quebec is more imposing, the view of the Hudson at
+this place is grander than that of the St. Lawrence, and
+the ruins of Fort Putnam are almost as venerable as the
+Heights of Abraham. The sensation of the visitor is,
+moreover, somewhat the same in both places as to the
+environment of law and authority. To get the daily character
+and quality of West Point one should spend at
+least twenty-four hours within its borders, and a good
+hotel, the only one on the Government grounds, will be
+found central and convenient to everything of interest.
+The parade and drills at sunset hour can best be seen
+in this way.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The United States Military Academy.</b>&mdash;Soon after the
+close of the War of the Revolution, Washington suggested
+West Point as the site of a military academy, and, in
+1793, in his annual message, recommended it to Congress,
+which in 1794 organized a corps of artillerists to be here
+stationed with thirty-two cadets, enlarging the number in
+1798 to fifty-six. In 1808 it was increased to one hundred
+and fifty-six, and in 1812 to two hundred and sixty.</p>
+<p>
+Up to 1812 only 71 cadets had been graduated. The
+roll of graduates now numbers about 5,000.</p>
+<p>
+Each Congressman has the appointment of one cadet,
+supplemented by ten appointed by the President of the
+United States. These cadets are members of the regular
+army, subject to its regulations for eight years, viz: during
+four years of study and four years after graduating.
+The candidates are examined in June, each year, and<a name="page93" id="page93"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;93]</span>
+must be physically sound as well as mentally qualified.
+The course is very thorough, especially in higher mathematics.
+The cadets go into camp in July and August,
+and this is the pleasantest time to visit the point.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Enchanted place, hemmed in by mountain walls,</p>
+<p>By bristling guns and Hudson's restful shore.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Kenneth Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p93" id="p93"></a>
+The plans furnished by the architects of the new building
+will entirely change the appearance of the river front.
+The proposed massive structure crowning the cliff will
+"out-castle" the most massive fortifications of the walled
+cities of Europe. $7,500,000 has been appropriated to the
+work by Congress and the next generation will behold a
+new West Point.</p>
+<p>
+In the rebuilding of the Post the Cadet Chapel, the
+Riding Hall, the Administration Building and some of
+the Officers' Quarters will be removed. Most of the old
+important buildings, however, will not be disturbed, and
+the Chapel will be placed as it were "intact" on another
+site. The plan leaves untouched the Cadet Barracks, the
+Cadet Mess, the Memorial Hall, the Library and the
+Officers' Mess. The tower of the new Post Headquarters
+will rise high and massive several stories above the other
+structures and present in enduring symbol the republic
+standing four square and firm throughout the ages.</p>
+<p>
+In the "West Point Souvenir," prepared by W. H. Tripp,
+which every visitor will prize, are many suggestions and
+descriptions of value. From many visits and many sources
+we condense the following brevities:</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Cadet Barracks</b> was built in 1845-51 of native
+granite. In 1882 the western wing was extended adding
+two divisions.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Academy Building</b> is immediately opposite the
+Headquarters, of Massachusetts granite, erected in 1891-95,
+and cost about $500,000. It contains recitation and lecture
+rooms of all departments of instruction.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Ordnance Museum</b> contains an interesting and extensive
+exhibit of ancient and modern firearms, also many
+valuable trophies from the Revolutionary, Mexican, Civil
+and Spanish wars. </p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Among the fair and lovely Highlands of the Hudson, </p>
+<p>shut in by deep green heights and ruined forts, hemmed</p>
+<p>in all round with memories of Washington, there could</p>
+<p>be no more appropriate ground for the military school</p>
+<p>of America.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Charles Dickens.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page94" id="page94"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;94]</span>
+<p>
+<b>The Cadet Chapel</b>, immediately north of the Administration 
+Building, was erected in 1834. The chapel contains
+many valuable trophies of the Revolutionary and Mexican
+wars, including three Hessian and two British flags
+that were once the property of Washington. The walls
+have many memorial tablets and a famous "blank" of
+Arnold. Here also are several cannon surrendered at
+Saratoga, October 17, 1777.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Administration Building</b> was completed in 1871.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Library</b> adjoins the Cadet Chapel on the east, built
+of native granite in 1841, costing about $15,000. In 1900
+the building was entirely reconstructed of fire-proof material
+by appropriation of $80,000. The exterior walls
+of the original building entered into the remodeled structure.
+The Library, founded in 1812, has about 50,000
+volumes.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Gymnasium</b> adjoins the Barracks on the west,
+erected of native granite, costing $90,000.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Memorial Hall</b>, plainly seen from the Hudson, completed
+in 1899, is of Ionic architecture. The building cost
+$268,000, a legacy bequeathed by Gen. George W. Cullum,
+built of Milford granite for army trophies of busts, paintings
+and memorials. The bronze statute of Gen. John
+Sedgwick in the northwest angle of the plain was dedicated
+in 1868. The fine cenotaph of Italian marble was
+erected in 1885. It stands immediately in front of
+Memorial Hall.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Kosciusko's Monument</b> was erected in 1828. It stands
+in the northeast angle of Fort Clinton.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Chain-Battery</b> walk runs from Kosciusko's Garden
+northward to Light House Point, near which was the
+battery that defended the chain across the river in the
+Revolution. The scene is of great beauty and has been
+known for many years by the name of "Flirtation Walk."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Where Kosciusko dreamed and proud scenes bring</p>
+<p>To mind the stormy days when Liberty</p>
+<p>Was cradled at West Point&mdash;the Highlands' key.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Kenneth Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-105-800.png"><img src="images/illus-105-284.png" width="284" height="450" alt="BATTLE MONUMENT, WEST POINT" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>BATTLE MONUMENT, WEST POINT</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+<p>
+<b>The Battle Monument</b>, on Trophy Point, is the most
+beautiful on the reservation&mdash;a column of victory in
+memory of 2,230 officers and soldiers of the regular army<a name="page95" id="page95"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;95]</span>
+of the United States who were killed or died of wounds
+received in the war of the Rebellion. It is a monolith
+of polished granite surmounted by a figure of Fame. The
+shaft is 46 feet in length, 5 feet in diameter, and said
+to be the largest piece of polished stone in the world.
+The cost of the work was $66,000. The site was dedicated
+June 15, 1864. The monument was dedicated in
+1897. The address was by Justice Brewer.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Trophy Point</b>, on the north side of the plain, overlooking
+the river and commanding a majestic view of the Hudson
+and the city of Newburgh, has been likened by European
+travelers to a view on Lake Geneva. Here are the "swivel
+clevies" and 16 links of the old chain that was stretched
+across the river at this point. The whole chain, 1,700 feet
+long, weighing 186 tons, was forged at the Sterling Iron
+Works, transported to New Windsor and there attached
+to log booms and floated down the river to this point.</p>
+<p><a name="p95" id="p95"></a>
+<b>Old Fort Putnam</b> was erected in 1778 by the 5th Massachusetts
+Regiment under the direction of Col. Rufus
+Putnam. It was originally constructed of logs and trees
+with stone walls on two sides to defend Fort Clinton on
+the plain below. It was garrisoned by 450 men, and
+had 14 guns mounted. In 1787 it was dismantled, and
+the guns sold as old iron. Its brick arch casements overgrown
+with moss, vines, and shrubbery are crumbling
+away, but are well worth a visit. It is 495 feet above
+the Hudson. A winding picturesque carriage road leads
+up from the plain, and the pedestrian can reach the
+summit in 20 minutes. On clear days the Catskill Mountains
+are visible.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Fort Clinton</b>, in the northeast angle of the plain, was
+built in 1778 under the direction of the Polish soldier,
+Kosciusko. Sea Coast Battery is located on the north
+waterfront, Siege Battery on the slope of the hill below
+the Battle Monument. Targets for the guns on both
+batteries are on the hillside about a mile distant. Battery<a name="page96" id="page96"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;96]</span>
+Knox, which overlooks the river, was rebuilt in 1874 on
+the site of an old revolutionary redoubt.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Bright are the moments link'd with thee,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Boast of a glory-hallowed land!</p>
+  <p>Hope of the valiant and the free,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Home of our youthful soldier band!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Anonymous.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+While Fort Putnam was being built Washington was
+advised that Dubois's regiment was unfit to be ordered on
+duty, there being "not one blanket in the regiment. Very
+few have either a shoe or a shirt, and most of them have
+neither stockings, breeches, or overalls. Several companies
+of inlisted artificers are in the same situation, and
+unable to work in the field."</p>
+<p>
+What privations were here endured to establish our
+priceless liberty! It makes better Americans of us all to
+turn and re-turn the pages of the real Hudson, the most
+picturesque volume of the world's history.</p>
+<p>
+West Point during the Revolution was the Gibraltar
+of the Hudson and her forts were regarded almost impregnable.
+Fort Putnam will be rebuilt as an enduring
+monument to the bravery of American soldiers.</p>
+<p>
+The best way to study West Point, however, is not in
+voluminous histories or in the condensed pages of a guide
+book, but to visit it and see its real life, to wander amid
+its old associations, and ask, when necessary, intelligent
+questions, which are everywhere courteously answered.
+The view north seen in a summer evening, is one long
+to be remembered. In such an hour the writer's idea of
+the Hudson as an open book with granite pages and
+crystal book-mark is most completely realized as indicated
+in the Highland section of his poem, "The Hudson":</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>On either side these mountain glens</p>
+    <p class="i2">Lie open like a massive book,</p>
+  <p>Whose words were graved with iron pens,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And lead into the eternal rock:</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Which evermore shall here retain</p>
+    <p class="i2">The annals time cannot erase,</p>
+  <p>And while these granite leaves remain</p>
+    <p class="i2">This crystal ribbon marks the place.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Under Spring's delicate marshalling every hill of the</p>
+<p>Highlands took its own place, and the soft swells of</p>
+<p>ground stood back the one from the other in more and</p>
+<p>more tender coloring.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Susan Warner.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-097-1120.png"><img src="images/illus-097-600.png" width="600" height="383" alt="LOOKING NORTH FROM WEST POINT BATTERY" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>LOOKING NORTH FROM WEST POINT BATTERY</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+<a name="page97" id="page97"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;97]</span>
+
+<h4>West Point to Newburgh.</h4>
+<p>
+The steamer passes too near the west bank to give a
+view of the magnificent plateau with parade ground and 
+Government buildings, but on rounding the point a picture 
+of marvelous beauty breaks at once upon the vision. On
+the left the massive indented ridge of Old Cro' Nest and
+Storm King, and on the right Mount Taurus, or Bull
+Hill, and Break Neck, while still further beyond toward
+the east sweeps the Fishkill range, sentineled by South
+Beacon, 1,625 feet in height, from whose summit midnight
+gleams aroused the countryside for leagues and scores
+of miles during those seven long years when men toiled
+and prayed for freedom. Close at hand on the right will
+be seen Constitution Island, formerly the home of Miss
+Susan Warner, who died in 1885, author of "Queechy"
+and the "Wide, Wide World." Here the ruins of the
+old fort are seen. The place was once called Martalaer's
+Rock Island. A chain was stretched across the river at
+this point to intercept the passage of boats up the
+Hudson, but proved ineffectual, like the one at Anthony's
+Nose, as the impetus of the boats snapped them both
+like cords.</p>
+<p>
+Some years ago, when the first delegation of Apache
+Indians was brought to Washington to sign a treaty of
+peace, the Indians were taken for an "outing" up the
+Hudson, by General O. O. Howard and Dr. Herman
+Bendell, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for Arizona.
+It is said that they noted with cold indifference the
+palaces along the river front: "the artistic terraces, the
+well-kept, sloping lawns, the clipped hedges and the ivy-grown
+walls made no impression on them, but when the
+magnificent picture of the Hudson above West Point
+revealed itself, painted by the rays of the sinking sun,
+these wild men stood erect, raised their hands high above
+their heads and uttered a monosyllabic expression of<a name="page98" id="page98"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;98]</span>
+delight, which was more expressive than volumes of
+words."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The queenly Hudson circling at thy feet</p>
+    <p class="i2">Lingers to sing a song of joy and love,</p>
+  <p>Pouring her heart in rippling wavelets sweet,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Which sun-kissed glance up to thy throne above.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Kenneth Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="p98" id="p98"></a>
+<p>
+Sir Robert Temple also rises into rapture over the
+northern gate of the Highlands. "One of the fairest
+spectacles to be seen on the earth's surface; not on
+any other river or strait&mdash;not on Ganges or Indus, on
+the Dardanelles or the Bosphorus, on the Danube or the
+Rhine, on the Neva or the Nile&mdash;have I ever observed
+so fairy-like a scene as this on the Hudson. The only
+water-view to rival it is that of the Sea of Marmora,
+opposite Constantinople."</p>
+<p>
+Most people who visit our river, naturally desire a
+brilliant sunlit day for their journey, and with reason,
+but there are effects, in fog and rain and driving mist,
+only surpassed amid the Kyles of Bute, in Scotland. The
+traveler is fortunate, who sees the Hudson in many phases,
+and under various atmospheric conditions. A midnight
+view is peculiarly impressive when the mountain spirits
+of Rodman Drake answer to the call of his "Culprit Fay."</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"'Tis the middle watch of a summer night,</p>
+<p>The earth is dark but the heavens are bright,</p>
+<p>The moon looks down on Old Cro' Nest&mdash;</p>
+<p>She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast,</p>
+<p>And seems his huge gray form to throw</p>
+<p>In a silver cone on the wave below."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+It is said that the "Culprit Fay" was written by Drake
+in three days, and grew out of a discussion which took
+place during a stroll through this part of the Highlands
+between Irving, Halleck, Cooper and himself, as to the
+filling of a new country with old-time legends. Drake
+died in 1820. Halleck's lines to his memory are among
+the sweetest in our language. It is said that Halleck,
+on hearing Drake read his poem, "The American Flag,"
+sprang to his feet, and in a semi-poetic transport, concluded
+the lines with burning words, which Drake afterwards
+appended:</p>
+
+<a name="page99" id="page99"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;99]</span>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>"Forever float that standard sheet,  </p>
+   <p class="i2">Where breathes the foe but falls before us,  </p>
+  <p>With Freedom's soil beneath our feet,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And Freedom's banner streaming o'er us."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>It floweth deep and strong and wide</p>
+    <p class="i2">This river of romance</p>
+  <p>Along whose banks on moonlight nights</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Highland fairies dance.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>E.A. Lente.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Just opposite Old Cro' Nest is the village of Cold Spring, 
+on the east bank, which receives its name naturally from
+a cold spring in the vicinity; and it is interesting to
+remember that the famous Parrott guns were made at
+this place, and many implements of warfare during our
+civil strife. The foundry was started by Gouverneur
+Kemble in 1828, and brought into wide renown by the
+inventive genius of Major Parrott. Cold Spring has a
+further distinction in having the first ground broken,
+about three miles from the river, for the greatest engineering
+enterprise of the age&mdash;"The Water Supply of the
+Catskills," when Mayor McClellan, in June, 1907, began
+the work with his silver shovel. A short distance north
+of the village is</p>
+<a name="p99" id="p99"></a>
+<p>
+<b>Undercliff</b> (built by John C. Hamilton, son of Alexander
+Hamilton, but more particularly associated with
+the memory of the poet, Col. George P. Morris), lies, in
+fact, <i>under the cliff</i> and shadow of Mount Taurus, and
+has a fine outlook upon the river and surrounding mountains.
+Standing on the piazza, we see directly in front
+of us Old Cro' Nest, and it was here that the poet wrote:</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>"Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands</p>
+    <p class="i2">Winds through the hills afar,</p>
+  <p><i>Old Cro' Nest like a monarch stands</i></p>
+    <p class="i2"><i>Crowned with a single star</i>."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Few writers were better known in their own day than
+the poet of Undercliff, who wrote "My Mother's Bible,"
+and "Woodman, Spare that Tree." On one occasion,
+when Mr. Russell was singing it at Boulogne, an old
+gentleman in the audience, moved by the simple and
+touching beauty of the lines,</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"Forgive the foolish tear,</p>
+   <p class="i2">But let the old oak stand."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<a name="page100" id="page100"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;100]</span>
+<p>
+rose and said: "I beg your pardon, but was the tree
+really spared?" "It was," answered Mr. Russell, and
+the old gentleman resumed his seat, amid the plaudits
+of the whole assembly. Truly</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>"Its glory and renown</p>
+    <p class="i2">Are spread o'er land and sea."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>When freedom from her mountain height</p>
+  <p class="i2">Unfurled her standard to the air,</p>
+<p>She tore the azure robe of night</p>
+  <p class="i2">And set the stars of glory there.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Joseph Rodman Drake.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="p100" id="p100"></a>
+<p>
+The first European name given to Storm King was
+Klinkersberg (so called by Hendrick Hudson, from its
+glistening and broken rock). It was styled by the Dutch
+"Butter Hill," from its shape, and, with Sugar Loaf on
+the eastern side below the point, helped to set out the
+tea-table for the Dunderberg goblins. It was christened
+by Willis, "Storm King," and may well be regarded the
+El Capitan of the Highlands. Breakneck is opposite, on
+the east side, where St. Anthony's Face was blasted away.
+In this mountain solitude there was a shade of reason
+in giving that solemn countenance of stone the name of
+St. Anthony, as a good representative of monastic life;
+and, by a quiet sarcasm, the full-length nose below was
+probably suggested.</p>
+<p>
+The mountain opposite Cro' Nest is "Bull Hill," or
+more classically, "Mt. Taurus." It is said that there
+was formerly a wild bull in these mountains, which had
+failed to win the respect and confidence of the inhabitants,
+so the mountaineers organized a hunt and drove him
+over the hill, whose name stands a monument to his exit.
+The point at the foot of "Mount Taurus" is known as
+"Little Stony Point."</p>
+<p>
+The Highlands now trend off to the northeast, and we
+see North Beacon, or Grand Sachem Mountain, and Old
+Beacon about half a mile to the north. The mountains
+were relit with beacon-fires in 1883, in honor of the centennials
+of Fishkill and Newburgh, and were plainly seen
+sixty miles distant.</p>
+<p>
+This section was known by the Indians as "Wequehache,"
+or, "the Hill Country," and the entire range was<a name="page101" id="page101"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;101]</span>
+called by the Indians "the endless hills," a name not
+inappropriate to this mountain bulwark reaching from
+New England to the Carolinas. As pictured in our
+"Long Drama," given at the Newburgh centennial of
+the disbanding of the American Army,</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>That ridge along our eastern coast,</p>
+    <p class="i2">From Carolina to the Sound,</p>
+  <p>Opposed its front to Britain's host,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And heroes at each pass were found:</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>A vast primeval palisade,</p>
+    <p class="i2">With bastions bold and wooded crest,</p>
+  <p>A bulwark strong by nature made</p>
+    <p class="i2">To guard the valley of the west.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+ <p> Along its heights the beacons gleamed,</p>
+    <p class="i2">It formed the nation's battle-line,</p>
+  <p>Firm as the rocks and cliffs where dreamed</p>
+    <p class="i2">The soldier-seers of Palestine.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+It was also believed by the Indians that, in ancient
+days, "before the Hudson poured its waters from the
+lakes, the Highlands formed one vast prison, within whose
+rocky bosom the omnipotent Manitou confined the rebellious
+spirits who repined at his control. Here, bound
+in adamantine chains, or jammed in rifted pines, or
+crushed by ponderous rocks, they groaned for many an
+age. At length the conquering Hudson, in its career
+toward the ocean, burst open their prison-house, rolling
+its tide triumphantly through the stupendous ruins."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The Highlands are here moulded in all manner of</p>
+<p>heights and hollows; sometimes reaching up abruptly to</p>
+<p>twelve or fifteen hundred feet, and again stretching</p>
+<p>away in long gorges and gentle declivities.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Susan Warner.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+<b>Pollopel's Island</b>, east of the steamer's route, was once
+regarded as a haunted spot, but its only witches are
+said to be snakes too lively to be enchanted. In old times,
+the "new hands" on the sloops were unceremoniously
+dipped at this place, so as to be proof-christened against
+the goblins of the Highlands. Here also another useless
+"impediment" was put across the Hudson in 1779, a
+chevaux-de-frise with iron-pointed spikes thirty feet long,
+hidden under water, strongly secured by cribs of stone.
+This, however, was not broken and would probably have
+done effective work if some traitor to the cause had not<a name="page102" id="page102"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;102]</span>
+guided the British captains through an unprotected passage.
+The State at one time contemplated the purchase
+of this island on which to erect a statue to Hendrick
+Hudson. For some reason Governor Flower vetoed the
+bill. It is now owned by Mr. Francis Bannerman, an
+energetic business man, who perhaps some day may see
+his way to promote a monument to Hudson on the splendid
+pedestal which nature has already completed.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>What sights and sounds at which the world has wondered</p>
+    <p class="i2">Within these wild ravines have had their birth!</p>
+  <p>Young Freedom's cannon from these glens have thundered </p>
+    <p class="i2">And sent their startling echoes o'er the earth.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="p102" id="p102"></a>
+<p>
+<b>Cornwall-on-the-Hudson.</b>&mdash;This locality N. P. Willis
+selected as the most picturesque point on the Hudson.
+The village lies in a lovely valley, which Mr. Beach has
+styled in his able description, as "an offshoot of the
+Ramapo, up which the storm-winds of the ocean drive,
+laden with the purest and freshest air."</p>
+<p>
+<b>Idlewild.</b>&mdash;Where Willis spent the last years of his life
+is a charming spot and rich with poetic memories. E. P.
+Roe also chose Cornwall for his home. Lovers of the
+Hudson are indebted to Edward Bok for his realistic
+sketch of an afternoon visit. The "Idlewild" of to-day
+is still green to the memory of the poet. Since Willis'
+death the place has passed in turn into various hands,
+until now it belongs to a wealthy New York lawyer, who
+has spent thousands of dollars on the house and grounds.
+The old house still stands, and here and there in the
+grounds remains a suggestion of the time of Willis. The
+famous pine-drive leading to the mansion, along which
+the greatest literary lights of the Knickerbocker period
+passed during its palmy days, still remains intact, the
+dense growth of the trees only making the road the
+more picturesque. The brook, at which Willis often sat,
+still runs on through the grounds as of yore. In the
+house, everything is remodeled and remodernized. The
+room from whose windows Willis was wont to look over
+the Hudson, and where he did most of his charming
+writing, is now a bedchamber, modern in its every appointment,
+and suggesting its age only by the high ceiling and
+curious mantel. Only a few city blocks from "Idlewild"<a name="page103" id="page103"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;103]</span>
+is the house where lived E. P. Roe, the author of so 
+many popular novels, as numerous, almost, in number
+as the several hundreds of thousands of circulation which
+they secured. There are twenty-three acres to it in all, 
+and, save what was occupied by the house, every inch of
+ground was utilized by the novelist in his hobby for fine
+fruits and rare flowers. Now nothing remains of the
+beauty once so characteristic of the place. For four years
+the grounds have missed the care of their creator. Where
+once were the novelist's celebrated strawberry beds, are
+now only grass and weeds. Everything is grown over, only
+a few trees remaining as evidence that the grounds were
+ever known for their cultivated products. A large board
+sign announces the fact that the entire place is for sale.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The river narrows at their proud behest</p>
+    <p class="i2">And creeps more darkly as it deeper flows,</p>
+  <p>And fitful winds swirl through the long defile</p>
+    <p class="i2">Where the great Highlands keep their stern repose.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>E.A. Lente.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Cornwall has been for many years a favorite resort of
+the Hudson Valley and her roofs shelter in the summer
+season many thousand people. The road completed in
+1876, from Cornwall to West Point, gives one a pleasant
+acquaintance with the wooded Highlands. It passes over
+the plateau of Cro' Nest and winds down the Cornwall
+slope of Storm King. The tourist who sees Cro' Nest
+and Storm King only from the river, has but little idea
+of their extent. Cro' Nest plateau is about one thousand
+feet above the parade ground of West Point, and overlooks
+it as a rocky balcony. These mountains, with their
+wonderful lake system, are, in fact, the "Central Park"
+of the Hudson. Within a radius of ten miles are clustered
+over forty lakes, and we very much doubt if one person
+in a thousand ever heard of them. A convenient map
+giving the physical geography of this section would be
+of great service to the mountain visitor. The Cornwall
+pier, built by the <i>New York, Ontario and Western Railroad</i>
+in 1892 for coal and freight purposes, will be seen
+on our left near the Cornwall dock. This railroad leaves
+the <i>West Shore</i> at this point and forms a pleasant tourist
+route to the beautiful inland villages and resorts of the
+State.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A solitary gleam struck on the base of the Highland</p>
+<p>peak, and moved gracefully up its side, until reaching</p>
+<p>the summit, it stood for a minute forming a crown of</p>
+<p>glory to the sombre pile.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>James Fenimore Cooper.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page104" id="page104"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;104]</span>
+
+<h4>Newburgh to Poughkeepsie.</h4>
+<p>
+<b>Newburgh</b>, 60 miles from New York. Approaching the
+city of Newburgh, we see a building of rough stone, one
+story high, with steep roof&mdash;known as Washington's
+Headquarters. For several years prior to, and during the
+Revolution, this was the home of Jonathan Hasbrouck,
+known far and wide for business integrity and loyalty to
+liberty. This house was built by him, apparently, in
+decades; the oldest part, the northeast corner, in 1750;
+the southeast corner, in 1760, and the remaining half
+in 1770. It fronted west on the king's highway, now
+known as Liberty Street, with a garden and family burial
+plot to the east, lying between the house and the river.
+It was restored as nearly as possible to its original character
+on its purchase by the State in 1849, and it is now
+the treasure-house of many memories, and of valuable
+historic relics. A descriptive catalogue, prepared for the
+trustees, under act of May 11, 1874, by a patient and
+careful historian, Dr. E. M. Ruttenber, will be of service
+to the visitor and can be obtained on the grounds. The
+following facts, condensed from his admirable historical
+sketch, are of practical interest:</p>
+<p><a name="p104" id="p104"></a>
+"<b>Washington's Headquarters</b>, or the Hasbrouck house,
+is situated in the southeast part of the city, constructed
+of rough stone, one story high, fifty-six feet front by
+forty-six feet in depth, and located on what was originally
+Lot No. 2, of the German Patent, with title vested in
+Heman (Herman?) Schoneman, a native of the Palatinate of Germany,
+who sold, in 1721, to James Alexander, who subsequently
+sold to Alexander Colden and Burger Meynders,
+by whom it was conveyed to Jonathan Hasbrouck, the
+grandson of Abraham Hasbrouck, one of the Huguenot
+founders of New Paltz. He was a man of marked character;
+of fine physique, being six feet and four inches
+in height; was colonel of the militia of the district, and<a name="page105" id="page105"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;105]</span>
+in frequent service in guarding the passes of the Highlands.
+His occupation was that of a farmer, a miller,
+and a merchant. He died in 1780. The first town meeting 
+for the Precinct of Newburgh was held here on the
+first Tuesday in April, 1763, when its owner was elected
+supervisor. Public meetings continued to be held here
+for several years. During the early part of the Revolution,
+the committee of safety, of the precinct, assembled
+here; here military companies were organized, and here
+the regiment which Colonel Hasbrouck commanded assembled,
+to move hence to the defence of the Highland forts."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Sacred in this mansion hoary,</p>
+    <p class="i2">'Neath its roof-tree long ago</p>
+  <p>Dwelt the father of our glory,</p>
+    <p class="i2">He whose name appalled the foe.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Mary E. Monell.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+From this brief outline, it will be seen that the building
+is singularly associated with the history of the Old
+as well as of the New World: with the former through
+the original grantee of the land, recalling the wars which
+devastated the Palatinate and sent its inhabitants, fugitive
+and penniless, to other parts of Europe and to
+America; through his successor with the Huguenots of
+France, and, through the public meetings which assembled
+here, and especially through its occupation by Washington,
+with the struggle for American independence.</p>
+<p>
+In the spring of 1782 Washington made this building
+his headquarters, and remained here until August 18,
+1783, on the morning of which day he took his departure
+from Newburgh. At this place he passed through the
+most trying period of the Revolution: the year of inactivity
+on the part of Congress, of distress throughout
+the country, and of complaint and discontent in the army,
+the latter at one time bordering on revolt among the
+officers and soldiers.</p>
+<p><a name="p105" id="p105"></a>
+It was at this place, on the 22d day of May, 1782, that
+Colonel Nicola, on behalf of himself and others, proposed
+that Washington should become king, for the
+"national advantage," a proposal that was received by
+Washington with "surprise and astonishment," "viewed
+with abhorrence," and "reprehended with severity." The
+temptation which was thus repelled by Washington, had<a name="page106" id="page106"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;106]</span>
+its origin with that portion of the officers of the army,
+who while giving their aid heartily to secure an independent 
+government, nevertheless believed that that government 
+should be a monarchy. The rejection of the
+proposition by Washington was not the only significant
+result. The rank and file of the army rose up against
+it, and around their camp-fires chanted their purpose in 
+Billings' song, "No King but God!" From that hour a
+republic became the only possible form of government for
+the enfranchised Colonies.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>With silvered locks and eyes grown dim,</p>
+    <p class="i2">As victory's sun proclaimed the morn,</p>
+  <p>He pushed aside the diadem</p>
+    <p class="i2">With stern rebuke and patriot scorn.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p106" id="p106"></a>
+The inattention of Congress to the payment of the
+army, during the succeeding winter, gave rise to an
+equally important episode in the history of the war. On
+the 10th of March, 1783, the first of the famous "Newburgh
+Letters" was issued, in which, by implication at
+least, the army was advised to revolt. The letter was
+followed by an anonymous manuscript notice for a public
+meeting of officers on the succeeding Tuesday. Washington
+was equal to the emergency. He expressed his disapprobation
+of the whole proceeding, and with great
+wisdom, requested the field officers, with one commissioned
+officer from each company, to meet on the Saturday preceding
+the time appointed by the anonymous notice. He
+attended this meeting and delivered before it one of the
+most touching and effective addresses on record. When
+he closed his remarks, the officers unanimously resolved
+"to reject with disdain" the infamous proposition contained
+in the anonymous address.</p>
+<p>
+The meeting of officers referred to was held at the New
+Building or "Temple" as it was called, in New Windsor,
+but Washington's address was written at his headquarters.
+The "Newburgh Letters," to which it was a reply, were
+written by Major John Armstrong, aid-de-camp to General
+Gates. The anonymously called meeting was not held.
+The motives of its projectors we will not discuss; but
+its probable effect, had it been successful, must be considered
+in connection with Washington's encomium of the<a name="page107" id="page107"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;107]</span>
+result of the meeting which he had addressed: "Had
+this day been wanting, the world had never known the 
+height to which human greatness is capable of attaining." </p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Freemen pause! this ground is holy,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Noble spirits suffered here,</p>
+  <p>Tardy Justice, marching slowly,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Tried their faith from year to year.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Mary E. Monell.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Serene and calm in peril's hour,</p>
+    <p class="i2">An honest man without pretence,</p>
+  <p>He stands supreme to teach the power</p>
+    <p class="i2">And brilliancy of common-sense.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="p107" id="p107"></a>
+Notice of the cessation of hostilities was proclaimed to
+the army April 19, 1783. It was received with great
+rejoicings by the troops at Newburgh, and under Washington's
+order, was the occasion of an appropriate celebration.
+In the evening, signal beacon lights proclaimed the
+joyous news to the surrounding country. Thirteen cannon
+came pealing up from Fort Putnam, which were followed
+by a <i>feu-de-joie</i> rolling along the lines. The mountain
+sides resounded and echoed like tremendous peals of
+thunder, and the flashing from thousands of fire-arms, in
+the darkness of the evening, was like unto vivid flashes
+of lightning from the clouds. From this time furloughs
+were freely granted to soldiers who wished to return to
+their homes, and when the army was finally disbanded
+those absent were discharged from service without being
+required to return. That portion of the army, which
+remained at Newburgh on guard duty, after the removal
+of the main body to West Point in June, were participants
+here in the closing scenes of the disbandment, when, on
+the morning of November 3, 1783, "the proclamation of
+Congress and the farewell orders of Washington were
+read, and the last word of command given." From Monell's
+"Handbook of Washington's Headquarters" we also
+quote a general description of the house and its appearance
+when occupied by the commander-in-chief. "Washington's
+family consisted of himself, his wife, and his
+aid-de-camp, Major Tench Tilghman. The large room,
+which is entered from the piazza on the east, known as
+'the room with seven doors and one window,' was used
+as the dining and sitting-room. The northeast room was
+Washington's bedroom and the one adjoining it on the
+left was occupied by him as a private office. The family
+room was that in the southeast; the kitchen was the
+southwest room; the parlor the northwest room. Between<a name="page108" id="page108"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;108]</span>
+the latter and the former was the hall and staircase and
+the storeroom, so called for having been used by Colonel
+Hasbrouck and subsequently by his widow as a store. The
+parlor was mainly reserved for Mrs. Washington and her
+guests. A Mrs. Hamilton, whose name frequently appears
+in Washington's account book, was his housekeeper, and
+in the early part of the war made a reputation for her
+zeal in his service, which Thacher makes note of and
+Washington acknowledges in his reference to an exchange
+of salt. There was little room for the accommodation of
+guests, but it is presumed that the chambers were reserved
+for that purpose. Washington's guests, however, were
+mainly connected with the army and had quarters elsewhere.
+Even Lafayette had rooms at DeGrove's Hotel
+when a visitor at headquarters.</p>
+<p>
+"The building is now substantially in the condition it
+was during Washington's occupation of it. The same
+massive timbers span the ceiling; the old fire-place with
+its wide-open chimney is ready for the huge back-logs of
+yore; the seven doors are in their places; the rays of
+the morning sun still stream through the one window;
+no alteration in form has been made in the old piazza&mdash;the
+adornments on the walls, if such the ancient hostess
+had, have alone been changed for souvenirs of the heroes
+of the nation's independence. In presence of these surroundings,
+it requires but little effort of the imagination
+to restore the departed guests. Forgetting not that this
+was Washington's private residence, rather than a place
+for the transaction of public business, we may, in the
+old sitting-room respread the long oaken table, listen to
+the blessing invoked on the morning meal, hear the cracking
+of joints, and the mingled hum of conversation. The
+meal dispensed, Mrs. Washington retires to appear at her
+flower beds or in her parlor to receive her morning calls.
+Colfax, the captain of the life-guard, enters to receive
+the orders of the day&mdash;perhaps a horse and guard for
+Washington to visit New Windsor, or a barge for Fishkill<a name="page109" id="page109"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;109]</span>
+or West Point, is required; or it may be Washington
+remains at home and at his writing desk conducts his
+correspondence, or dictates orders for army movements. 
+The old arm-chair, sitting in the corner yonder, is still
+ready for its former occupant.</p>
+<p>
+"The dinner hour of five o'clock approaches; the guests
+of the day have already arrived. Steuben, the iron drill-master
+and German soldier of fortune, converses with
+Mrs. Washington. He had reduced the simple marksmen
+of Bunker Hill to the discipline of the armies of Europe
+and tested their efficiency in the din of battle. He has
+leisure now, and scarcely knows how to find employment
+for his active mind. He is telling his hostess, in broken
+German-English, of the whale (it proved to be an eel)
+he had caught in the river. Hear his hostess laugh!
+And that is the voice of Lafayette, relating perhaps his
+adventures in escaping from France, or his mishap in
+attempting to attend Mrs. Knox's last party. Wayne, of
+Stony Point; Gates, of Saratoga; Clinton, the Irish-blooded
+Governor of New York, and their compatriots&mdash;we
+may place them all at times beside our <i>Pater Patriae</i>
+in this old room, and hear amid the mingled hum his
+voice declare: 'Happy, thrice happy, shall they be pronounced
+hereafter, who have contributed anything, who
+have performed the meanest office in erecting this stupendous
+fabric of Freedom and Empire on the broad basis
+of independency; who have assisted in protecting the
+rights of human nature, and in establishing an asylum
+for the poor and oppressed of all nations and religions.'</p>
+<p><a name="p109" id="p109"></a>
+"In France, some fifty years after the Revolution,
+Marbois reproduced, as an entertainment for Lafayette,
+then an old man, this old sitting-room and its table scene.
+From his elegant saloon he conducted his guests, among
+whom were several Americans, to the room which he had
+prepared. There was a large open fire-place, and plain
+oaken floors; the ceiling was supported with large beams
+and whitewashed; there were the seven small-sized doors<a name="page110" id="page110"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;110]</span>
+and one window with heavy sash and small panes of glass.
+The furniture was plain and unlike any then in use.
+Down the centre of the room was an oaken table covered
+with dishes of meat and vegetables, decanters and bottles
+of wine, and silver mugs and small wine glasses. The
+whole had something the appearance of a Dutch kitchen.
+While the guests were looking around in surprise at this
+strange procedure, the host, addressing himself to them
+said, 'Do you know where we now are?' Lafayette looked
+around, and, as if awakening from a dream, he exclaimed,
+'Ah! the seven doors and one window, and the
+silver camp goblets such as the Marshals of France used
+in my youth. We are at Washington's Headquarters on
+the Hudson fifty years ago.'"</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>One window looking toward the east; </p>
+    <p class="i2">Seven doors wide-open every side;</p>
+  <p>That room revered proclaims at least</p>
+    <p class="i2">An invitation free and wide.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The goodness which characterizes Washington is felt</p>
+<p>by all around him, but the confidence he inspires is</p>
+<p>never familiar; it springs from a profound esteem for</p>
+<p>his virtues and a great opinion of his talents.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Marquis de Chastellux.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>From these headquarters Washington promulgated his</p>
+<p>memorable order for the cessation of hostilities and</p>
+<p>recalled the fact that its date, April 18th, was the anniversary </p>
+<p>of the battles of Lexington and Concord.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Thomas F. Bayard.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p110" id="p110"></a>
+The Hasbrouck family returned to their old home, made
+historic for all time, after the disbandment of the army
+and remained until it became the property of the State.
+On July 4, 1850, the place was formally dedicated by
+Major-General Winfield Scott, dedicatory address delivered
+by John J. Monell, an ode by Mary E. Monell, and an
+oration by Hon. John W. Edmunds. The centennial of
+the disbanding of the army was observed here October
+18, 1883. After the noonday procession of 10,000 men
+in line, three miles in length, with governors and representative
+people from almost every State, 150,000 people,
+"ten acres" square, gathered in the historic grounds.
+Senator Bayard, of Delaware, was chairman of the day.
+Hon. William M. Evarts was the orator, and modestly
+speaking in the third person, Wallace Bruce, author of
+this handbook, was the poet. No one there gathered can
+ever forget that afternoon of glorious sunlight or the
+noble pageant. The great mountains, which had so frequently
+been the bulwark of liberty and a place of refuge
+for our fathers, were all aglow with beauty, as if, like
+Horeb's bush, they too would open their lips in praise
+and thanksgiving. One of the closing sentences of Senator
+Evarts' address is unsurpassed in modern or ancient<a name="page111" id="page111"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;111]</span>
+eloquence: "These rolling years have shown growth, forever
+growth, and strength, increasing strength, and wealth
+and numbers ever expanding, while intelligence, freedom,
+art, culture and religion have pervaded and ennobled all
+this material greatness. Wide, however, as is our land
+and vast our population to-day, these are not the limits
+to the name, the fame, the power of the life and character
+of Washington. If it could be imagined that this
+nation, rent by disastrous feuds, broken in its unity,
+should ever present the miserable spectacle of the undefiled
+garments of his fame parted among his countrymen,
+while for the seamless vesture of his virtue they cast
+lots&mdash;if this unutterable shame, if this immeasurable crime,
+should overtake this land and this people, be sure that
+no spot in the wide world is inhospitable to his glory,
+and no people in it but rejoices in the influence of his
+power and his virtue." In his lofty sentences the old
+heroes seemed to pass again in review before us, and the
+daily life of that heroic band, when Congress sat inactive
+and careless of its needs until the camp rose in mutiny,
+happily checked, however, by the great commander in a
+single sentence. It will be remembered that Washington
+began to read his manuscript without glasses, but was
+compelled to stop, and, as he adjusted them to his eyes,
+he said, "You see, gentlemen, that I have not only grown
+gray, but blind, in your service." It is needless to say
+that the "anonymously called" meeting was not held.</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>He quelled the half-paid mutineers,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And bound them closer to the cause;</p>
+  <p>His presence turned their wrath to tears,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Their muttered threats to loud applause.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The great Republic had its birth</p>
+    <p class="i2">That hour beneath the army's wing,</p>
+  <p>Whose leader taught by native worth</p>
+    <p class="i2">The man is grander than the king.</p>
+</div>
+</div><br />
+
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>We hear the anthem once again,&mdash;</p>
+    <p class="i2">"No king but God!"&mdash;to guide our way,</p>
+  <p>Like that of old&mdash;"Good-will to men"&mdash;</p>
+    <p class="i2">Unto the shrine where freedom lay.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+ <p>
+ Near at hand, and also plainly seen from the river, is
+the new Tower of Victory, fifty-three feet high, costing<a name="page112" id="page112"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;112]</span>
+$67,000. It contains a life-size statue of Washington,
+in the act of sheathing his sword, with bronze figures
+representing the rifle, the artillery, the line officer and
+dragoon service of our country, with a bronze tablet on
+the east wall bearing the inscription: "This monument
+was erected under the authority of the Congress of the
+United States, and of the State of New York, in commemoration
+of the disbandment, under proclamation of
+the Continental Congress, of October 18, 1783, of the
+armies, by whose patriotic and military virtue, our national
+independence and sovereignty were established." The
+Belvidere, reached by a spiral staircase, is capable of
+holding one hundred persons, and the view therefrom
+takes in a wide extent of panoramic beauty. Newburgh
+has not only reason to be proud of her historical landmarks
+and her beautiful situation, but also of her commercial
+prosperity. In olden times, it was a great centre
+for all the western and southwestern district, farmers
+and lumbermen coming from long distances in the interior.
+Soon after the Revolution she was made a village,
+when there were only two others in the State. Before
+the days of the Erie canal, this was the shortest route
+to Lake Erie, and was made by stage <i>via</i> Ithaca. With
+increasing facilities of railway communication, she has
+also easily held her own against all commercial rivals.
+The <i>West Shore Railroad</i>, the <i>Erie Railway</i>, the <i>New
+York Central</i> and the <i>New York and New England</i> across
+the river, and several Hudson river steamers, make her
+peculiarly central. The city is favored with beautiful
+driveways, amid charming country seats. The New Paltz
+road passes the site where General Wayne had his headquarters,
+also, the "Balm of Gilead tree," which gave
+the name of Balmville to the suburban locality. Another
+road affords a glimpse of the "Vale of Avoca," named
+after the well-known glen in Ireland, of which Tom Moore
+so sweetly sung. Here, some say, a treacherous attempt
+was made on the life of Washington, but it is not generally <a name="page113" id="page113"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;113]</span>
+credited by critical historians. As the steamer 
+leaves the dock, and we look back upon the factories and 
+commercial houses along the water front, crowned by
+noble streets of residence, with adjoining plateau, sweeping
+back in a vast semi-circle as a beautiful framework to 
+the wide bay, we do not wonder that Hendrick Hudson
+established a prophetic record by writing "a very pleasant
+place to build a town."</p><br /><br />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-113-1122.png"><img src="images/illus-113-600.png" width="600" height="374" alt="WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, NEWBURGH" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, NEWBURGH</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Washington! Brave without temerity; laborious without</p>
+<p>ambition; generous without prodigality; noble without</p>
+<p>pride; virtuous without severity.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i23"><i>Marquis de Chastellux.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p113" id="p113"></a>
+<b>Fishkill-on-the-Hudson.</b>&mdash;Directly opposite Newburgh,
+one mile north of Denning's Point (formerly the eastern
+dock of the Newburgh ferry), rises on a pleasant slope,
+the newer Fishkill of this region. A little more than a
+mile from the landing, is the manufacturing village of
+Matteawan, connected by an electric railroad. Old Fishkill,
+or Fishkill Village, is about four miles inland, charmingly
+located, under the slope of the Fishkill range. This
+was once the largest village in Dutchess county, and was
+chosen for its secure position above the Highlands, as
+the place to which "should be removed the treasury and
+archives of the State, also, as the spot for holding the
+subsequent sessions of the Provincial Conventions," after
+they were driven from New York. A historical sketch
+of the town, by T. Van Wyck Brinkerhoff, presents many
+things of interest. "Its history, anterior to 1682, belongs
+to the red men of the valley, and, more than any other
+spot, this was the home of their priests. Here they performed
+their incantations and administered at their
+altars." According to Broadhead, "It would seem that
+the neighboring Indians esteemed the peltries from Fishkill
+as charmed by the incantations of the aboriginal
+enchanters who lived along its banks, and the beautiful
+scenery in which those ancient priests of the Highlands
+dwelt, is thus invested with new poetic associations."
+Dunlap speaks of them as "occupying the Highlands, called
+by them Kittatenny Mountains. Their principal settlement,
+designated Wiccapee, was situated in the vicinity
+of Anthony's Nose. Here too, lived the Wappingers, a<a name="page114" id="page114"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;114]</span>
+war-like and brave tribe, extending themselves along the
+Matteawan, along the Wappingers Kill and tributaries,
+along the Hudson, and to the northward, across the river
+into Ulster County. These and other tribes to the south,
+west and north, were parts of and tributaries to the great
+Iroquois confederation&mdash;the marvel for all time to come
+of a system of government so wise and politic, and for
+men so eloquent and daring. The Wappingers took part
+in the Dutch and Indian wars of 1643 and 1663, led on
+by their war chiefs, Wapperonk and Aepjen. A few
+Indian names are still remaining, and a few traces of
+their history still left standing. The name Matteawan is
+Indian, signifying 'Good Beaver Grounds,' and the name
+Wappinger still speaks of those who once owned the soil
+along the Hudson. Their name for the stream was
+Mawanassigh, or Mawenawasigh. Wiccapee and Shenondoah
+are also Indian names of places in Fishkill Hook,
+and East Fishkill, and Apoquague, still surviving as the
+name of a country postoffice, was the Indian style of
+what is now called Silver Lake, signifying 'round pond.'
+In Fishkill Hook until quite recently, there were traces
+of their burial grounds, and many apple and pear trees
+are still left standing, set there by the hands of the red
+man before the country had been occupied by Europeans."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>For here amid these hills he once kept court&mdash;</p>
+<p>He who his country's eagle taught to soar</p>
+<p>And fired those stars which shine o'er every shore.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+To return to Brinkerhoff, "The first purchase of land
+in the county of Dutchess, was made in the town of
+Fishkill. On the 8th day of February, 1682, a license
+was given by Thomas Dongan, Commander-in-chief of the
+Province of New York, to Francis Rombout and Gulian
+Ver Planck, to purchase a tract of land from the Indians.
+Under this license, they bought, on the 8th day of August,
+1683, of the Wappinger Indians, all their right, title and
+interest to a certain large tract of land, afterward known
+as the Rombout precinct. Gulian Ver Planck died before
+the English patent was issued by Governor Dongan;
+Stephanus Van Cortland was then joined in it with
+Rombout, and Jacobus Kipp substituted as the representative<a name="page115" id="page115"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;115]</span>
+of the children of Gulian Ver Planck. On the
+17th day of October, 1685, letters patent, under the broad
+seal of the Province of New York, were granted by King
+James the Second, and the parties to whom these letters
+patent were granted, became from that time the undisputed
+proprietors of the soil. There were 76,000 acres
+of these lands lying in Fishkill, and other towns taken
+from the patent, and 9,000 acres lying in the limits of
+the town of Poughkeepsie. Besides paying the natives,
+as a further consideration for the privilege of their
+license, they were to pay the commander-in-chief, Thomas
+Dongan, six bushels of good and merchantable winter
+wheat every year." In the Book of Patents, at Albany,
+vol. 5, page 72, will be found the deed, of special interest
+to the historian and antiquarian.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>It was a dainty day, and it grew more dainty towards</p>
+<p>its close as the lights and shadows stretched athwart</p>
+<p>our Highland landscape.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Susan Warner.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"After the evacuation of New York, in the fall of 1776,
+and the immediate loss of the seaboard, with Long Island
+and part of New Jersey, Fishkill was at once crowded
+with refugees, as they were then called, who sought, by
+banishing themselves from their homes on Long Island
+and New York, to escape imprisonment and find safety
+here. The interior army route to Boston passed through
+this place. Army stores, workshops, ammunition, etc., were
+established and deposited here." The Marquis De Chastellux,
+in his travels in North America, says: "This town,
+in which there are not more than fifty houses in the
+space of two miles, has been long the principal depot of
+the American army. It is there they have placed their
+magazines, their hospitals, their workshops, etc., but all of
+these form a town in themselves, composed of handsome
+large barracks, built in the woods at the foot of the mountains:
+for the American army, like the Romans in many
+respects, have hardly any other winter quarters than
+wooden towns, or barricaded camps, which may be compared
+to the 'hiemalia' of the Romans." These barracks
+were situated on the level plateau between the residence
+of Mr. Cotheal and the mountains. Portions of these<a name="page116" id="page116"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;116]</span>
+grounds were no doubt then covered with timber. Guarding
+the approach from the south, stockades and fortifications
+were erected on commanding positions, and regularly
+manned by detachments from the camp.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Unto him and them all owing</p>
+    <p class="i2">Peace as stable as our hills,</p>
+  <p>Plenty like yon river flowing</p>
+    <p class="i2">To the sea from thousand rills.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i16"><i>Mary E. Monell.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"Upon one of these hills, rising out of this mountain
+pass-way, very distinct lines of earthworks are yet apparent.
+Near the residence of Mr. Sidney E. Van Wyck,
+by the large black-walnut trees, and east of the road
+near the base of the mountain, was the soldiers' burial
+ground. Many a poor patriot soldier's bones lie mouldering
+there; and if we did but know how many, we would
+be startled at the number, for this almost unknown and
+unnoticed burial ground holds not a few, but hundreds
+of those who gave their lives for the cause of American
+independence. Some fifteen years ago, an old lady who
+had lived near the village until after she had grown to
+womanhood, told the writer that after the battle of White
+Plains she went with her father through the streets of
+Fishkill, and in places between the Dutch and Episcopal
+churches, the dead were piled up like cord-wood. Those
+who died from wounds in battle or from sickness in hospital
+were buried there. Many of these were State
+militiamen, and it seems no more than just that the State
+should make an appropriation to erect a suitable monument
+over this spot. Rather than thus remain for another
+century, if a rough granite boulder were rolled down from
+the mountain side and inscribed: 'To the unknown and
+unnumbered dead of the American Revolution,' that rough
+unhewn stone would tell to the stranger and the passer-by,
+more to the praise and fame of our native town than
+any of us shall be able to add to it by works of our own;
+for it is doubtful whether any spot in the State has as
+many of the buried dead of the Revolution as this quiet
+burial yard in our old town!" Here also on June 2,
+1883, was observed "The Fishkill Centennial," and few
+of our centennials have been celebrated amid objects of
+greater revolutionary interest. Near at hand, to quote<a name="page117" id="page117"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;117]</span>
+from the official report of the proceedings, is "Denning's
+Point where Washington frequently, while waiting, tied
+his horses under those magnificent 'Washington oaks,' as
+he passed backward and forward from New Windsor and
+Newburgh to Fishkill. Near by is the Verplanck House,
+Baron Steuben's old headquarters. On Spy Hill and Continental
+Hill troops were quartered. At Matteawan
+Sackett lived, and there is the Teller House built by
+Madame Brett, where officers frequently resorted, and
+there Yates dwelt when he presided over the legislative
+body while it held its sessions in Fishkill, that had much
+to do with forming our first State Constitution. Baron
+Steuben was for a while in the old Scofield House at
+Glenham. In Fishkill are those renowned old churches
+where legislative sittings were held, which were also used
+as hospitals for the sick, and one of which is otherwise
+known as being the place where Enoch Crosby, the spy,
+was imprisoned, and from which he escaped. Near at
+hand the Wharton House (Van Wyck House), forever
+associated with him, and made famous by Cooper's 'Spy.'
+In the Brinckerhoff House above, Lafayette was dangerously
+ill with a fever, and there, at Swartwoutville, Washington
+was often a visitor. Whenever Washington was
+at Fishkill he made Colonel Brinckerhoff's his headquarters.
+He occupied the bedroom back of the parlor,
+which remains the same 'excepting a door that opens
+into the hall, which has been cut through.' It is an old-fashioned
+house built of stone, with the date 1738 on
+one of its gables." With the story of Fishkill we close
+the largest page relating to our revolutionary heroes,
+and leave behind us the Old Beacon Mountains which
+forever sentinel and proclaim their glory.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>No prouder sentinel of glory than the old Beacon</p>
+<p>Mountain whose watch-fire guarded the valley and spoke</p>
+<p>its rallying message to the Catskills and Berkshires and</p>
+<p>the very foothills of the Green Mountains.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The sun touched mountains in some places were of</p>
+<p>a bright orange and the shadows between them deep</p>
+<p>neutral tint or blue. And the river apparently had</p>
+<p>stopped running to reflect.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Susan Warner.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Low Point</b>, or Carthage, is a small village on the east
+bank, about four miles north of Fishkill. It was called
+by the early inhabitants Low Point, as New Hamburgh,
+two miles north, was called High Point. Opposite Carthage
+is Roseton, once known as Middlehope, and above this we<a name="page118" id="page118"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;118]</span>
+see the residence of Bancroft Davis and the Armstrong
+Mansion. We now behold on the west bank a large flat
+rock, covered with cedars, recently marked by a lighthouse,
+the&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p118" id="p118"></a>
+<b>Duyvel's Dans Kammer.</b>&mdash;Here Hendrick Hudson, in
+his voyage up the river, witnessed an Indian pow-wow&mdash;the
+first recorded fireworks in a country which has since
+delighted in rockets and pyrotechnic displays. Here, too,
+in later years, tradition relates the sad fate of a wedding
+party. It seems that a Mr. Hans Hansen and a Miss
+Kathrina Van Voorman, with a few friends, were returning
+from Albany, and disregarding the old Indian
+prophecy, were all slain:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"For none that visit the Indian's den</p>
+<p>Return again to the haunts of men.</p>
+<p>The knife is their doom! O sad is their lot!</p>
+<p>Beware, beware of the blood-stained spot!"</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Some years ago this spot was also searched for the
+buried treasures of Captain Kidd, and we know of one
+river pilot who still dreams semi-yearly of there finding
+countless chests of gold.</p>
+<p>
+Two miles above, on the east side, we pass New Hamburgh,
+at the mouth of <b>Wappingers Creek</b>. The name
+Wappinger had its origin from Wabun, east, and Acki,
+land. This tribe, a sub-tribe of the Mahicans, held the
+east bank of the river, from Manhattan to Roeliffe Jansen's
+Creek, which empties into the Hudson near Livingston,
+a few miles south of Catskill Station on the <i>Hudson
+River Railroad</i>. Passing Hampton Point we see Marlborough,
+the head-centre of a large fruit industry,
+delightfully located in the sheltered pass of the Maunekill.
+On the east bank will be noticed several fine residences:
+"Uplands," "High Cliff," "Cedars," and
+"Netherwood." Milton is now at hand on the west bank,
+with its cosy landing and <i>West Shore Railroad</i> station.
+This pleasant village was one of the loved spots of J. G.<a name="page119" id="page119"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;119]</span>
+Holland, and the home of Mary Hallock Foote, until a
+modern "Hiawatha" took our Hudson "Minnehaha" to
+far away western mountains.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The tulip tree majestic stirs</p>
+    <p class="i2">Far down the water's marge beside,</p>
+  <p>And now awake the nearer firs,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And toss their ample branches wide.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Springbrook</b>, opposite Milton, a place of historic interest,
+near the river bank, was bought by Theophilus
+Anthony before the Revolution. Some of the links of
+the famous chain in the Highlands were forged here in
+1777. When the British ships ascended the river the
+family fled to the woods, all but an old colored servant
+woman who wisely furnished the soldiers a good dinner
+and got thereby their good will to save the house. The
+old Flour Mill, however, was burned which stood on
+the same site as the present Springbrook Mill. Theophilus
+Anthony's only daughter married Thomas Gill after
+the Revolution, and from that time the property has been
+in the Gill family. Few places in the Hudson Valley have
+such ancient and continuous family history.</p>
+
+<p><a name="p119" id="p119"></a>
+<b>Locust Grove</b>, with square central tower and open outlook,
+residence of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse, inventor
+of the telegraph, is seen on the west bank; also the "Lookout,"
+once known as Mine Hill, now a part of Poughkeepsie
+cemetery, with charming driveway to the wooded
+point where the visitor can see from his carriage one of
+the finest views of the Hudson. The completion of this
+drive is largely due to the enterprise of the late Mr.
+George Corlies, who did much to make Poughkeepsie
+beautiful. The view from this "Lookout" takes in the
+river for ten miles to the south, and reaches on the north
+to the Catskills. In a ramble with Mr. Corlies over Lookout
+Point, he told the writer that it was originally the
+purpose of Matthew Vassar to erect a monument on
+Pollopel's Island to Hendrick Hudson. Mr. Corlies suggested
+this point as the most commanding site. Mr.
+Vassar visited it, and concluded to place the monument
+here. He published an article in the Poughkeepsie papers
+to this effect, and, meeting Mr. Corlies one week afterwards,
+said, "Not one person in the city of Poughkeepsie<a name="page120" id="page120"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;120]</span>
+has referred to my monument. I have decided to build
+a college for women, where they can learn what is useful,
+practical and sensible." It is interesting to note the
+fountain-idea of the first woman's college in the world,
+as it took form and shape in the mind of its founder.</p><br /><br />
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-129-1122.png"><img src="images/illus-129-600.png" width="600" height="297" alt="POUGHKEEPSIE BRIDGE" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>POUGHKEEPSIE BRIDGE</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-137-1127.png"><img src="images/illus-137-600.png" width="600" height="377" alt="TROPHY POINT, WEST POINT" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>TROPHY POINT, WEST POINT</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-145-1121.png"><img src="images/illus-145-600.png" width="600" height="375" alt="OLD CRO' NEST AND STORM KING" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>OLD CRO' NEST AND STORM KING</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-153-1121.png"><img src="images/illus-153-600.png" width="600" height="379" alt="POLLIPEL'S ISLAND AND MOUNT TAURUS" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>POLLIPEL'S ISLAND AND MOUNT TAURUS</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-169-1121.png"><img src="images/illus-169-600.png" width="600" height="373" alt="THE CATSKILLS FROM THE HUDSON" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>THE CATSKILLS FROM THE HUDSON</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-185-1122.png"><img src="images/illus-185-600.png" width="600" height="378" alt="NORTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS" border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>NORTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>And from their leaguering legions thick and vast </p>
+<p>The galling hail-shot in fierce volley falls,</p>
+<p>While quick, from cloud to cloud, darts o'er the levin</p>
+<p>The flash that fires the batteries of heaven!</p>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Knickerbocker Magazine.</i></p></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/illus-120-800.png"><img src="images/illus-120-600.png" width="600" height="297" alt="MORNING VIEW AT BLUE POINT." border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>MORNING VIEW AT BLUE POINT.</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+<p>
+We now see Blue Point, on the west bank; and, in
+every direction, enjoy the finest views. The scenery seems
+to stand, in character, between the sublimity of the Highlands
+and the tranquil, dreamy repose of the Tappan Zee.
+It is said that under the shadow of these hills was the
+favorite anchorage of&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p120" id="p120"></a>
+<b>The Storm Ship</b>, one of our oldest and most reliable
+legends. The story runs somewhat as follows: Years
+ago, when New York was a village&mdash;a mere cluster of
+houses on the point now known as the Battery&mdash;when
+the Bowery was the farm of Peter Stuyvesant, and the
+Old Dutch Church on Nassau Street (which also long
+since disappeared), was considered the country&mdash;when
+communication with the old world was semi-yearly instead
+of semi-weekly or daily&mdash;say two hundred years ago&mdash;the
+whole town one evening was put into great commotion
+by the fact that a ship was coming up the bay.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>See you beneath yon sky so dark</p>
+<p>Fast gliding along a gloomy bark:&mdash;</p>
+<p>By skeleton shapes her sails are furled,</p>
+<p>And the hand that steers is not of this world.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Legend of the Storm Ship.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page121" id="page121"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;121]</span>
+<p>
+She approached the Battery within hailing distance, and
+then, sailing against both wind and tide, turned aside
+and passed up the Hudson. Week after week and month
+after month elapsed, but she never returned; and whenever
+a storm came down on Haverstraw Bay or Tappan
+Zee, it is said that she could be seen careening over the
+waste; and, in the midst of the turmoil, you could hear
+the captain giving orders, in <i>good Low Dutch</i>; but when
+the weather was pleasant, her favorite anchorage was
+among the shadows of the picturesque hills, on the eastern
+bank, a few miles above the Highlands. It was thought
+by some to be Hendrick Hudson and his crew of the
+"Half Moon," who, it was well known, had once run
+aground in the upper part of the river, seeking a northwest
+passage to China; and people who live in this
+vicinity still insist that under the calm harvest moon
+and the pleasant nights of September, they see her under
+the bluff of Blue Point, all in deep shadow, save her
+topsails glittering in the moonlight.</p>
+<p><a name="p121" id="p121"></a>
+<b>Poughkeepsie</b>, 74 miles from New York, is now at hand,
+Queen City of the Hudson, with name, derived from the
+Indian word Apokeepsing, signifying "safe harbor." Near
+the landing a bold headland juts out into the river, known
+as Kaal Rock, and no doubt this sheltering rock was
+a safe harbor in days of birch canoes. It has been
+recently claimed that the word signifies "muddy pond,"
+which is neither true, appropriate or poetic. Poughkeepsie
+does not propose to give up her old-time "harbor
+name," particularly as it has been recently discovered
+that the name "Kipsie" was also given by the Indians
+to a "safe harbor" near the Battery on Manhattan Island.
+It is said that there are over forty different ways of
+spelling Poughkeepsie, and every year the postoffice record
+gives a new one. The first house was built in 1702 by a
+Mr. Van Kleeck. The State legislature had a session
+here in 1777 or 1778, when New York was held by the
+British and after Kingston had been burned by Vaughan.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>On the crest of the waves, a something that glides</p>
+<p>Before the stiff breeze, and gracefully rides</p>
+<p>On the inflowing tide majestic and free</p>
+<p>A huge and mysterious bird of the sea.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Irving Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page122" id="page122"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;122]</span>
+<p>
+Ten years later, the State convention also met here for
+ratification of the Federal Constitution. The town has
+a beautiful location, and is justly regarded the finest
+residence city on the river. It is not only midway between
+New York and Albany, but also midway between the
+Highlands and the Catskills, commanding a view of the
+mountain portals on the south and the mountain overlook
+on the north&mdash;the Gibraltar of revolutionary fame
+and the dreamland of Rip Van Winkle.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The azure heaven is filled with smiles,</p>
+<p>The water lisping at my feet</p>
+<p>From weary thought my heart beguiles.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Henry Abbey.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The well known poet and <i>litterateur</i>, Joel Benton, who
+divides his residence between New York and Poughkeepsie,
+in a recent article, "The Midway City of the
+Hudson," written for the <i>Poughkeepsie Sunday Courier</i>,
+says:</p>
+<p>
+"Poughkeepsie as a township was incorporated in 1788.
+The village bearing the name was formed in 1799 (incorporated
+as a city in 1854), and soon became the center
+of a large trade running in long lines east and west from
+the river. Dutchess County had at this time but a sparse
+population. There was a post-road from New York to
+Albany; but the building of the Dutchess Turnpike from
+Poughkeepsie to Sharon, Conn., connecting with one from
+that place to Litchfield, which took place in 1808, was
+a capital event in its history. This made a considerable
+strip of western Connecticut tributary to Poughkeepsie's
+trade.</p>
+
+<p>
+"Over the turnpike went four-horse Concord stages,
+with berailed top and slanting boot in the rear for trunks
+and other baggage. Each one had the tin horn of the
+driver; and it was difficult to tell upon which the driver
+most prided himself&mdash;the power to fill that thrilling instrument,
+or his deft handling of the ponderous whip and
+multiplied reins. Travelers to Hartford and Boston went
+over this route; and an east and west through and way
+mail was a part of the burden. A sort of overland
+express and freight line, styled the Market Wagon, ran
+in and out of the town from several directions. One<a name="page123" id="page123"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;123]</span>
+or more of these conveyances started from as far east 
+as the Housatonic River, and they frequently crowded
+passengers in amongst their motley wares.</p>
+<p>
+"Speaking of the stage-driver's horn recalls the fact
+that when the steamboat arrived&mdash;which was so solitary
+an institution that for some time it was distinctly called
+'The Steamboat'&mdash;the tin horn did duty also for it.
+When it was seen in the distance, either Albanyward or
+in the New York direction, a boy went through the village
+blowing a horn to arouse those who wished to embark
+on it. It is said the expectant passengers had ample
+time, after the horn was sounded, to make their toilets,
+run down to the river (or walk down) and take passage
+on it.</p>
+<p>
+"In colonial days few were the people here; but they
+were a bright and stirring handful. It seems as if every
+man counted as ten. The De's and the Vans, the Livingstons,
+the Schuylers, the Montgomerys and ever so many
+more of the Hudson River Valley settlers are still making
+their impress upon the country. I suppose it need not
+now be counted strange that the strong mixture of Dutch
+and English settlers, with a few Huguenots, which finally
+made Dutchess county, were not a little divided between
+Tory and Whig inclinations. Around Poughkeepsie, and in
+its allied towns stretching between the Hudson River and
+the Connecticut line, there was much strife. Gov. George
+Clinton in his day ruled in the midst of much tumult
+and turbulence; but he held the reins with vigor, in spite
+of kidnappers or critics. When the British burned
+Kingston he prorogued the legislature to Poughkeepsie,
+which still served as a 'safe harbor.' As the resolution
+progressed the Tory faction was weakened, either by suppression
+or surrender.</p>
+<p>
+"It was in the Poughkeepsie Court House that, by <i>one</i>
+vote, after a Homeric battle, the colony of New York
+consented to become a part of the American republic,
+which consent was practically necessary to its existence.<a name="page124" id="page124"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;124]</span>
+How large a part two small incidents played here towards
+the result of nationality. That single vote was one, and 
+the news by express from Richmond, announcing Virginia's 
+previous ratification&mdash;and added stimulus to the
+vote&mdash;was the other. Poughkeepsie honored in May, 1824,
+the arrival of Lafayette, and dined him, besides exchanging
+speeches with him, both at the Forbus House, on
+Market Street, very nearly where the Nelson House now
+stands, and at the Poughkeepsie Hotel. It was one of
+Poughkeepsie's great days when he came. Daniel Webster
+has spoken in her court house; and Henry Clay, in 1844,
+when a presidential candidate, stopped for a reception.
+And it is said that, by a mere accident, she just missed
+contributing a name to the list of presidents of the United
+States. The omitted candidate was Nathaniel P. Talmadge.
+He could have had the vice-presidential candidacy,
+the story goes, in 1840, but would not take it. If
+he had accepted it, he would have gone into history not
+merely as United States senator from New York and
+afterwards Governor of Wisconsin territory, but as president
+in John Tyler's place.</p>
+<p>
+"In 1844, the New York State Fair was held here somewhere
+east of what is now Hooker Avenue. It was an
+occasion thought important enough then to be pictured
+and reported in the London <i>Illustrated News</i>. Two years
+after the telegraph wires were put up in this city, before
+they had yet reached the city of New York. Considering
+the fact that Prof. S. F. B. Morse, the telegraph inventor,
+had his residence here, this incident was not wholly
+inappropriate.</p>
+<p>
+"The advent in 1849 of the <i>Hudson River Railroad</i>,
+which was an enterprise in its day of startling courage
+and magnitude, constituted a special epoch in the history
+of Poughkeepsie and the Hudson River towns. Men of
+middle age here well remember the hostility and ridicule
+the project occasioned when it was first broached. Some
+said no railroad ever <i>could</i> be built on the river's edge;<a name="page125" id="page125"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;125]</span>
+and, if you should build one, the enormous expense incurred 
+would make it forever unprofitable. It seemed
+then the height of Quixotism to lay an expensive track
+where the river offered a free way to all. Property holders, 
+whose property was to be greatly benefited, fought 
+the railroad company with unusual spirit and persistence.
+But the railroad came, nevertheless, and needs no advocate
+or apologist to-day. There is no one now living
+here who would ask its removal, any more than he would
+ask the removal of the Hudson River itself."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>And lo! the Catskills print the distant sky,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And o'er their airy tops the faint clouds driven,</p>
+  <p>So softly blending, that the cheated eye</p>
+    <p class="i2">Forgets or which is earth or which is heaven.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Theodore S. Fay</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Mountains on mountains in the distance rise,</p>
+<p>Like clouds along the far horizon's verge;</p>
+<p>Their misty summits mingling with the skies,</p>
+<p>Till earth and heaven seem blended into one.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Bayard Taylor.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Poughkeepsie has been known for more than half a
+century as the City of Schools. The Parthenon-like structure
+which crowns College Hill was prophetic of a still
+grander and more widely known institution, the first in
+the world devoted to higher culture for women,&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Vassar College.</b>&mdash;This institution, founded by Matthew
+Vassar, and situated two miles east of the city, maintains
+its prestige not only as the first woman's college in point
+of time, but also first in excellence and influence. The
+grounds are beautiful and graced by noble buildings which
+have been erected year by year to meet the continued
+demands of its patrons. The college is not seen from
+the river but is of easy access by trolley from the steamboat
+landing.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Eastman College</b> is also one of the fixed and solid
+institutions of Poughkeepsie, located in the very heart
+of the city. It has accomplished good work in preparing
+young men for business, and has made Poughkeepsie a
+familiar word in every household throughout the land.
+It was fortunate for the city that the energetic founder
+of this college selected the central point of the Hudson
+as the place of all others most suited for his enterprise,
+and equally fortunate for the thousands of young men
+who yearly graduate from this institution, as the city is
+charmingly located and set like a picture amid picturesque
+scenery.</p>
+<p>
+Among many successful public institutions of Poughkeepsie<a name="page126" id="page126"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;126]</span>
+are the Vassar Hospital, the Vassar Old Men's
+Home, the Old Ladies' Home, the State Hospital and the
+Vassar Institute of Arts and Sciences.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I went three times up the Hudson; and if I lived in</p>
+<p>New York should be tempted to ascend it three times a</p>
+<p>week during the summer.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Harriet Martineau.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The opera house is one of the pleasantest in the country
+and received a high comment, still remembered, from
+Joseph Jefferson, for its perfect acoustic quality. The
+armory, the Adriance Memorial Library to the memory
+of Mr. and Mrs. John P. Adriance, and the historic Clinton 
+House on Main Street purchased in 1898 by the
+Daughters of the Revolution, also claim the attention
+of the visitor. Several factories are here located, the
+best known being that of Adriance, Platt &amp; Co., whose
+Buckeye mowers and reapers have been awarded the
+highest honors in Germany, Holland, France, Belgium,
+Sweden, Norway, Italy, Russia, Switzerland, and the
+United States, and are sold in every part of the civilized
+globe. The Ph&oelig;nix Horseshoe Co., the Knitting-Goods
+Establishment, and various shoe, shirt and silk thread
+factories contribute to the material prosperity of the town.
+The drives about Poughkeepsie are delightful. Perhaps
+the best known in the United States is the Hyde Park
+road, six miles in extent, with many palatial homes and
+charming pictures of park and river scenery. This is a
+part of the Old Post Road and reminds one by its perfect
+finish of the roadways of England. Returning one can
+take a road to the left leading by and up to</p>
+<p>
+<b>College Hill</b>, 365 feet in height, commanding a wide
+and extensive prospect. The city lies below us, fully
+embowered as in a wooded park. To the east the vision
+extends to the mountain boundaries of Dutchess County,
+and to the north we have a view of the Catskills marshalled
+as we have seen them a thousand times in sunset
+beauty along the horizon. This property, once owned by
+Senator Morgan and his heirs, was happily purchased by
+William Smith of Poughkeepsie, and given to the city
+as a public park. There is great opportunity here to
+make this a thing of beauty and a joy forever, for there<a name="page127" id="page127"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;127]</span>
+are few views on the Hudson, and none from any hill
+of its height, that surpass it in extent and variety. The
+city reservoir lies to the north, about one hundred feet
+down the slope of College Hill.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>My heart is on the hills. The shades</p>
+    <p class="i2">Of night are on my brow;</p>
+  <p>Ye pleasant haunts and quiet glades,</p>
+    <p class="i2">My soul is with you now!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Robert C. Sands.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The South Drive, a part of the Old Post Road, passes
+the gateway of the beautiful rural cemetery, Locust Grove
+and many delightful homes. Another interesting drive
+from Poughkeepsie is to Lake Mohonk and Minnewaska,
+well-known resorts across the Hudson, in the heart of
+the Shawangunk (pronounced Shongum) Mountains, also
+reached by railway or stages via New Paltz. There are
+also many extended drives to the interior of the county
+recommended to the traveler who makes Poughkeepsie for
+a time his central point; chief among these, Chestnut
+Ridge, formerly the home of the historian Benson J.
+Lossing, lying amid the hill country of eastern Dutchess.
+Its mean altitude is about 1,100 feet above tide water,
+a fragment of the Blue Ridge branch of the Appalachian
+chain of mountains, cleft by the Hudson at West Point,
+stretching away to the Berkshire Hills. It is also easy
+of access by the <i>Harlem Railroad</i> from New York to Dover
+Plains with three miles of carriage drive from that point.
+The outlook from the ridge is magnificent; a sweep of
+eighty miles from the Highlands to the Helderbergs, with
+the entire range of the Shawangunk and the Catskills.
+Mr. Lossing once said that his family of nine persons
+had required during sixteen years' residence on Chestnut
+Ridge, only ten dollars' worth of medical attendance.
+Previous to 1868 he had resided in Poughkeepsie, and
+throughout his life his form was a familiar one in her
+streets.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Thy waves are old companions, I shall see</p>
+<p>A well-remembered form in each old tree</p>
+<p>And hear a voice long-loved in thy wild minstrelsy.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Joseph Rodman Drake.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>The Dover Stone Church</b>, just west of Dover Plains
+Village, is also well worth a visit. Here a small stream
+has worn out a remarkable cavern in the rocks forming
+a gothic arch for entrance. It lies in a wooded gorge
+within easy walk from the village. Many years ago the
+writer of this handbook paid it an afternoon visit, and<a name="page128" id="page128"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;128]</span>
+the picture has remained impressed with wonderful vividness.
+The archway opens into a solid rock, and a stream
+of water issues from the threshold. On entering the
+visitor is confronted by a great boulder, resembling an
+old-fashioned New England pulpit, reaching half way to
+the ceiling. The walls are almost perfectly arched, and
+garnished here and there with green moss and white
+lichen. A rift in the rocks extends the whole length of
+the chapel, over which trees hang their green foliage,
+which, ever rustling and trembling, form a trellis-work
+with the blue sky, while the spray rising from behind the
+rock-worn altar seems like the sprinkling of holy incense.
+After all these years I still hear the voice of those dashing
+waters and dream again, as I did that day, of the
+brook of Cherith where ravens fed the prophet of old.
+It is said by Lossing, in his booklet on the Dover Stone
+Church, that Sacassas, the mighty sachem of the Pequoids
+and emperor over many tribes between the Thames and
+the Hudson River, was compelled after a disastrous battle
+which annihilated his warriors, to fly for safety, and,
+driven from point to point, he at last found refuge in
+this cave, where undiscovered he subsisted for a few days
+on berries, until at last he made his way through the
+territory of his enemies, the Mahicans, to the land of
+the Mohawks.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem"> 
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Tell me, where'er thy silver bark be steering,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Bright Dian floating by fair Persian lands,</p>
+  <p>Tell if thou visited, thou heavenly rover,</p>
+   <p class="i2">A lovelier stream than this the wide world over.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page129" id="page129"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;129]</span>
+
+<h4>Poughkeepsie to Kingston.</h4>
+<p>
+Leaving the Poughkeepsie dock the steamer approaches
+the Poughkeepsie Bridge which, from Blue Point and
+miles below, has seemed to the traveler like a delicate
+bit of lace-work athwart the landscape, or like an old-fashioned
+"valance" which used to hang from Dutch
+bedsteads in the Hudson River farm houses. This great
+cantilever structure was begun in 1873, but abandoned
+for several years. The work was resumed in 1886 just
+in time to save the charter, and was finished by the Union
+Bridge Company in less than three years. The bridge
+is 12,608 feet in length (or about two miles and a half),
+the track being 212 feet above the water with 165 feet
+clear above the tide in the centre span. The breadth of
+the river at this point is 3,094 feet. The bridge originally
+cost over three million dollars and much more has been
+annually spent in necessary improvements. It not only
+affords a delightful passenger route between Philadelphia
+and Boston, but also brings the coal centres of Pennsylvania
+to the very threshold of New England. Two railroads
+from the east centre here, and what was once considered
+an idle dream, although bringing personal loss to many
+stockholders, has been of material advantage to the city.</p>
+<p>
+As the steamer passes under the bridge the traveler
+will see on the left Highland station (<i>West Shore Railroad</i>)
+and above this the old landing of New Paltz. A
+well traveled road winds from the ferry and the station,
+up a narrow defile by the side of a dashing stream,
+broken here and there in waterfalls, to Highland Village,
+New Paltz and Lake Mohonk. <i>The Bridge and Trolley
+Line</i> from Poughkeepsie make a most delightful excursion
+to New Paltz, on the Wallkill, seat of one of the State
+normal colleges.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>My thoughts go back to thee, oh lovely lake,</p>
+<p>Lake of the Sky Top! as thy beauties break </p>
+<p>Upon the traveller of thy mountain road,</p>
+<p>While sunset gilds thee, vision never fairer glowed!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Prominent among many pleasant residences above
+Poughkeepsie are: Mrs. F. J. Allen's of New York, Mrs.<a name="page130" id="page130"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;130]</span>
+John F. Winslow's, Mrs. Thomas Newbold's, J. Roosevelt's
+and Archie Rogers'. The large red buildings above
+the Poughkeepsie water works are the Hudson River
+State Hospital. Passing Crum Elbow Point on the left
+and the Sisters of the White Cross Orphan Asylum, we
+see</p>
+<p><a name="p130-1" id="p130-1"></a>
+<b>Hyde Park</b>, 80 miles from New York, on the east bank,
+named some say, in honor of Lady Ann Hyde; according
+to others, after Sir Edward Hyde, one of the early British
+Governors of the colony. The first prominent place above
+Hyde Park, is Frederick W. Vanderbilt's, with Corinthian
+columns; and above this "Placentia," once the home of
+James K. Paulding.</p>
+<p>
+Immediately opposite "Placentia," at West Park on the
+west bank, is the home of John Burroughs, our sweetest
+essayist, the nineteenth century's "White of Selborne."
+Judge Barnard of Poughkeepsie, once said to the author
+of this handbook, "The best writer America has produced
+after Hawthorne is John Burroughs; I wish I
+could see him." It so happened that there had been an
+important "bank" suit a day or two previous in Poughkeepsie
+which was tried before the judge in which Mr.
+Burroughs had appeared as an important witness. The
+judge was reminded of this fact when he remarked with
+a few emphatic words, the absence of which seems to
+materially weaken the sentence: "Was that Burroughs?
+Well, well, I wish I had known it."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>How soothing is this solitude</p>
+<p>With nature in her wildest mood,</p>
+<p>Where Hudson deep, majestic, wide,</p>
+<p>Pours to the sea his monarch tide.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Wilson.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="map3" id="map3"></a>
+<p class="center"><b>Map of the Hudson River from Hyde Park to Cocksackie.</b><br /><br />
+<a href="images/map2ab-1000.png"><img src="images/map2ab-122.png" width="122" height="600" alt="Map of the Hudson River from Hyde Park to Cocksackie." border="1" /></a>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="p130-2" id="p130-2"></a>
+<b>Mount Hymettus</b>, overlooking West Park, so named by
+"the author and naturalist," has indeed been to him a
+successful hunting-ground for bees and wild honey, and
+will be long remembered for sweeter stores of honey
+encombed and presented in enduring type. Washington
+Irving says of the early poets of Britain that "a spray
+could not tremble in the breeze, or a leaf rustle to the
+ground, that was not seen by these delicate observers
+and wrought up into some beautiful morality." So John
+Burroughs has studied the Hudson in all its moods, knowing<a name="page131" id="page131"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;131]</span>
+ing well that it is not to be wooed and won in a single
+day. How clear this is seen in his articles on "Our
+River":</p>
+<p>
+"Rivers are as various in their forms as forest trees.
+The Mississippi is like an oak with enormous branches.
+What a branch is the Red River, the Arkansas, the Ohio,
+the Missouri! The Hudson is like the pine or poplar&mdash;mainly
+trunk. From New York to Albany there is only
+an inconsiderable limb or two, and but few gnarls and
+excrescences. Cut off the Rondout, the Esopus, the Catskill
+and two or three similar tributaries on the east
+side, and only some twigs remain. There are some
+crooked places, it is true, but, on the whole, the Hudson
+presents a fine, symmetrical shaft that would be hard
+to match in any river in the world. Among our own
+water-courses it stands preeminent. The Columbia&mdash;called
+by Major Winthrop the Achilles of rivers&mdash;is a
+more haughty and impetuous stream; the Mississippi is,
+of course, vastly larger and longer; the St. Lawrence
+would carry the Hudson as a trophy in his belt and
+hardly know the difference; yet our river is doubtless
+the most beautiful of them all. It pleases like a mountain
+lake. It has all the sweetness and placidity that
+go with such bodies of water, on the one hand, and all
+their bold and rugged scenery on the other. In summer,
+a passage up or down its course in one of the day steamers
+is as near an idyl of travel as can be had, perhaps,
+anywhere in the world. Then its permanent and uniform
+volume, its fullness and equipoise at all seasons, and its
+gently-flowing currents give it further the character of a
+lake, or of the sea itself. Of the Hudson it may be said
+that it is a very large river for its size,&mdash;that is for the
+quantity of water it discharges into the sea. Its watershed
+is comparatively small&mdash;less, I think, than that of
+the Connecticut. It is a huge trough with a very slight
+incline, through which the current moves very slowly, and
+which would fill from the sea were its supplies from the<a name="page132" id="page132"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;132]</span>
+mountains cut off. Its fall from Albany to the bay is
+only about five feet. Any object upon it, drifting with
+the current, progresses southward no more than eight
+miles in twenty-four hours. The ebb-tide will carry it
+about twelve miles and the flood set it back from seven
+to nine. A drop of water at Albany, therefore, will be
+nearly three weeks in reaching New York, though it will
+get pretty well pickled some days earlier. Some rivers
+by their volume and impetuosity penetrate the sea, but
+here the sea is the aggressor, and sometimes meets the
+mountain water nearly half way. This fact was illustrated
+a couple of years ago, when the basin of the Hudson
+was visited by one of the most severe droughts ever
+known in this part of the State. In the early winter
+after the river was frozen over above Poughkeepsie, it
+was discovered that immense numbers of fish were retreating
+up stream before the slow encroachment of salt
+water. There was a general exodus of the finny tribes
+from the whole lower part of the river; it was like the
+spring and fall migration of the birds, or the fleeing
+of the population of a district before some approaching
+danger: vast swarms of cat-fish, white and yellow perch
+and striped bass were <i>en route</i> for the fresh water farther
+north. When the people along shore made the discovery,
+they turned out as they do in the rural districts when
+the pigeons appear, and, with small gill-nets let down
+through holes in the ice, captured them in fabulous
+numbers. On the heels of the retreating perch and cat-fish
+came the denizens of the salt water, and codfish were
+taken ninety miles above New York. When the February
+thaw came and brought up the volume of fresh water
+again, the sea brine was beaten back, and the fish, what
+were left of them, resumed their old feeding-grounds.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Still on the Half-Moon glides: before her rise swarms</p>
+<p>of quick water fowl, and from her prow the sturgeon</p>
+<p>leaps, and falls with echoing splash.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Beneath&mdash;the river with its tranquil flood,</p>
+<p>Around&mdash;the breezes of the morning, scented</p>
+<p>With odors from the wood.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Allen Butler.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+It is this character of the Hudson, this encroachment
+of the sea upon it, on account of the subsidence of the
+Atlantic coast, that led Professor Newberry to speak of
+it as a drowned river. We have heard of drowned lands,<a name="page133" id="page133"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;133]</span>
+but here is a river overflowed and submerged in the same
+manner. It is quite certain, however, that this has not
+always been the character of the Hudson. Its great
+trough bears evidence of having been worn to its present
+dimensions by much swifter and stronger currents than
+those that course through it now. To this gradual subsidence
+in connection with the great changes wrought
+by the huge glacier that crept down from the north during
+what is called the ice period, is owing the character
+and aspects of the Hudson as we see and know them.
+The Mohawk Valley was filled up by the drift, the Great
+Lakes scooped out, and an opening for their pent-up
+waters found through what is now the St. Lawrence.
+The trough of the Hudson was also partially filled and
+has remained so to the present day. There is, perhaps,
+no point in the river where the mud and clay are not
+from two to three times as deep as the water. That
+ancient and grander Hudson lies back of us several hundred
+thousand years&mdash;perhaps more, for a million years
+are but as one tick of the time-piece of the Lord; yet
+even <i>it</i> was a juvenile compared with some of the rocks
+and mountains which the Hudson of to-day mirrors. The
+Highlands date from the earliest geological race&mdash;the
+primary; the river&mdash;the old river&mdash;from the latest, the
+tertiary; and what that difference means in terrestrial
+years hath not entered into the mind of man to conceive.
+Yet how the venerable mountains open their ranks
+for the stripling to pass through. Of course, the river
+did not force its way through this barrier, but has doubtless
+found an opening there of which it has availed itself,
+and which it has enlarged. In thinking of these things,
+one only has to allow time enough, and the most stupendous
+changes in the topography of the country are
+as easy and natural as the going out or the coming in
+of spring or summer. According to the authority above
+referred to, that part of our coast that flanks the mouth
+of the Hudson is still sinking at the rate of a few inches<a name="page134" id="page134"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;134]</span>
+per century, so that in the twinkling of a hundred
+thousand years or so, the sea will completely submerge
+the city of New York, the top of Trinity Church steeple
+alone standing above the flood. We who live so far inland,
+and sigh for the salt water, need only to have a
+little patience, and we shall wake up some fine morning
+and find the surf beating upon our door-steps."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A sloop, loitering in the distance, dropped slowly</p>
+<p>down with the tide, her sail hanging loosely against the</p>
+<p>mast; and as the reflection of the sky gleamed along</p>
+<p>the still water, it seemed as if the vessel was suspended</p>
+<p>in the air.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Washington Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+How strange it seems in these brief years since 1880
+to read of "Trinity Church steeple standing alone above
+the flood" as the rising tide of New York skyscrapers has
+long since overtopped the old landmark and is sweeping
+higher and higher day by day.</p>
+<p>
+The Frothingham residence and Frothingham dock are
+south of the Burroughs cottage. The late General Butterfield's
+house immediately to the north. The old Astor
+place (once known as Waldorf), is also near at hand. In
+our analysis of the Hudson we refer to the hills above
+and below Poughkeepsie as "The Picturesque." Any one
+walking or driving from Highland Village to West Park
+will feel that this is a proper distinction. The Palisades
+are distinguished for "grandeur" which might be defined
+as "horizontal sublimity." The Highlands for "sublimity"
+which might be termed "perpendicular grandeur;"
+the Catskills for "beauty," with their rounded form and
+ever changing hues, but the river scenery about Poughkeepsie
+abides in our memories as a series of bright and
+charming "pictures." North of Waldorf is Pelham, consisting
+of 1,200 acres, one of the largest fruit farms in
+the world. Passing Esopus Island, which seems like a
+great stranded and petrified whale, along whose sides
+often cluster Lilliputian-like canoeists, we see Brown's
+Dock on the west bank at the mouth of Black Creek,
+which rises eight miles from Newburgh on the eastern
+slope of the Plaaterkill Mountains. Flowing through Black
+Pond, known by the Dutch settlers as the "Grote Binnewater,"
+it cascades its way along the southern slope of
+the Shaupeneak Mountains to Esopus Village, a cross-road<a name="page135" id="page135"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;135]</span>
+hamlet, and thence carries to the Hudson its waters dark-stained
+by companionship with trees of hemlock and cedar
+growth. The Pell property extends on the west bank to
+Pell's Dock, almost opposite the Staatsburgh ice houses.
+Mrs. Livingston's residence will now be seen on the east
+bank, and just above this the home of the late William
+B. Dinsmore on Dinsmore Point. Passing Vanderberg
+Cove, cut off from the river by the tracks of the <i>New
+York Central Railroad</i>, we see the residence of Jacob
+Ruppert, and above this the Frinck mansion known as
+"Windercliffe," formerly the property of E. R. Jones, and
+next beyond the house of Robert Suckly. Passing Ellerslie
+Dock we see "Ellerslie," the palatial summer home of
+ex-Vice-President Levi P. Morton, an estate of six hundred
+acres, formerly owned by the Hon. William Kelly.
+Along the western bank extend the Esopus meadows, a low
+flat, covered by water, the southern end of which is
+marked by the Esopus light-house. To the west rises
+Hussey's Mountain, about one thousand feet in height,
+from under whose eastern slope two little ponds, known
+as Binnewaters, send another stream to join Black Creek
+before it flows into the Hudson. Port Ewen on the west
+bank, with ice houses and brick yards, will be seen by
+steamer passengers below the mouth of Rondout Creek.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>At dawn the river seems a shade,</p>
+   <p class="i2">A liquid shadow deep as space,</p>
+  <p>But when the sun the mist has laid</p>
+    <p class="i2">A diamond shower smites its face.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>John Burroughs.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p135" id="p135"></a>
+<b>Rhinecliff</b>, 90 miles from New York. The village of
+Rhinebeck, two miles east of the landing, is not seen from
+the river. It was named, as some contend, by combining
+two words&mdash;Beekman and Rhine. Others say that the
+word beck means cliff, and the town was so named from
+the resemblance of the cliffs to those of the Rhine. There
+are many delightful drives in and about Rhinebeck,
+"Ellerslie" being only about eight minutes by carriage
+from the landing.</p>
+<p>
+<i>The Philadelphia &amp; Reading Rhinebeck Branch</i> meets
+the Hudson at Rhinecliff, and makes a pleasant and convenient
+tourist or business route between the Hudson and
+the Connecticut. It passes through a delightful country<a name="page136" id="page136"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;136]</span>
+and thriving rural villages. Some of the views along the
+Roeliffe Jansen's Kill are unrivaled in quiet beauty. The
+railroad passes through Rhinebeck, Red Hook, Spring
+Lake, Ellerslie, Jackson Corners, Mount Ross, Gallatinville, 
+Ancram, Copake, Boston Corners, and Mount Riga
+to State Line Junction, and gives a person a good idea
+of the counties of Dutchess and Columbia. At Boston
+Corners connection is made with the <i>Harlem Railroad</i>.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Upon thy tessellated surface lie</p>
+<p>The wave-glassed splendors of the sunset sky!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Knickerbocker Magazine.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+From State Line Junction it passes through Ore Hill,
+Lakeville with its beautiful lake (an evening view of
+which is still hung in our memory gallery of sunset
+sketches), Salisbury, Chapinville, and Twin Lakes to
+Canaan, where the line crosses the <i>Housatonic Railroad.</i>
+This route, therefore, is the easiest and pleasantest for
+Housatonic visitors <i>en route</i> to the Catskills. From
+Canaan the road rises by easy grade to the summit, at
+an elevation of 1,400 feet, passing through the village of
+Norfolk, with its picturesque New England church crowning
+the village hill, and thence to Simsbury and Hartford.</p>
+<p><a name="p136" id="p136"></a>
+<b>The City of Kingston.</b>&mdash;Rondout and Kingston gradually
+grew together until the bans were performed in 1878, and
+a "bow-knot" tied at the top of the hill in the shape of
+a city hall, making them one corporation.</p>
+<p>
+The name Rondout had its derivation from a redoubt
+that was built on the banks of the creek. The creek
+took the name of Redoubt Kill, afterward Rundoubt, and
+at last Rondout. Kingston was once called Esopus.
+(The Indian name for the spot where the city now stands
+was At-kar-karton, the great plot or meadow on which
+they raised corn or beans.)</p>
+<p>
+Kingston and Rondout were both settled in 1614, and
+old Kingston, known by the Dutch as Wiltwyck, was
+thrice destroyed by the Indians before the Revolution.
+In 1777 the State legislature met here and formed a
+constitution. In the fall of the same year, after the capture
+of Fort Montgomery and Fort Clinton by the British,
+Vaughan landed at Rondout, marched to Kingston, and<a name="page137" id="page137"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;137]</span>
+burned the town. While Kingston was burning, the inhabitants
+fled to Hurley, where a small force of Americans
+hung a messenger who was caught carrying dispatches
+from Clinton to Burgoyne.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>What ample bays and branching streams,</p>
+    <p class="i2">What curves abrupt for glad surprise,</p>
+  <p>And how supreme the artist is</p>
+    <p class="i2">Who paints it all for loving eyes.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Henry Abbey.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Rondout is the termination of the Delaware and Hudson
+Canal (whence canal boats of coal find their way from
+the Pennsylvania Mountains to tidewater), also of the
+<i>Ulster and Delaware Railroad</i>, by which people find their
+way from tidewater to the Catskill Mountains, which have
+greeted the eye of the tourist for many miles down the
+Hudson. Originally all of the country-side in this vicinity
+was known as Esopus, supposed to be derived, according
+to Ruttenber, from the Indian word "seepus," a river.
+A "sopus Indian" was a Lowlander, and the name is
+intimately connected with a long reach of territory from
+Esopus Village, near West Park, to the mouth of the
+Esopus at Saugerties. In 1675 the mouth of the Rondout
+Creek was chosen by the New Netherland Company as
+one of the three fortified trading ports on the Hudson;
+a stockade was built under the guidance of General Stuyvesant
+in 1661 inclosing the site of old Kingston; a charter
+was granted in 1658 under the name of Wiltwyck, but
+changed in 1679 to Kingston. Few cities are so well off
+for old-time houses that span the century, and there is
+no congregation probably in the United States that has
+worshipped so many consecutive years in the same spot
+as the Dutch Reformed people of Kingston. Five buildings
+have succeeded the log church of 240 years ago. Dr.
+Van Slyke, in a recent welcome, said: "This church,
+which opens her doors to you, claims a distinction which
+does not belong even to the Collegiate Dutch Churches of
+Manhattan Island, and, by a peculiar history, stands
+identified more closely with Holland than any other of
+the early churches of this country. When every other
+church of our communion had for a long time been associated
+with an American Synod, this church retained its
+relations to the Classis of Amsterdam, and, after a period<a name="page138" id="page138"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;138]</span>
+of independency and isolation, it finally allied itself with
+its American sisterhood as late as the year 1808. We
+still have three or four members whose life began before
+that date."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Yet there are those who lie beside thy bed</p>
+<p>For whom thou once didst rear the bowers that screen</p>
+<p>Thy margin, and didst water the green fields;</p>
+<p>And now there is no night so still that they</p>
+<p>Can hear thy lapse.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Dominie Blom was the first preacher in Kingston. The
+church where he preached and the congregation that
+gathered to hear him have been tenderly referred to by
+the Rev. Dr. Belcher:</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>"They've journeyed on from touch and tone;</p>
+    <p class="i2">No more their ears shall hear</p>
+  <p>The war-whoop wild, or sad death moan,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Or words of fervid prayer;</p>
+  <p>But the deeds they did and plans they planned,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And paths of blood they trod,</p>
+  <p>Have blessed and brightened all this land</p>
+    <p class="i2">And hallowed it for God."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="p138" id="p138"></a>
+<b>The Senate House</b>, built in 1676 by Wessel Ten Broeck,
+who would seem by his name to have stepped bodily out
+of a chapter of Knickerbocker, was "burned" but not
+"down," for its walls stood firm. It was afterwards
+repaired, and sheltered many dwellers, among others,
+General Armstrong, secretary of war under President
+Madison. The Provincial Convention met in the court
+house at Kingston in 1777 and the Constitution was
+formally announced April 22d of that year. The first
+court was held here September 9th and the first legislature
+September 10th. Adjourning October 7th, they convened
+again August 18th, 1779, and in 1780, from April
+22d to July 2d, also for two months beginning January
+27, 1783.</p>
+<p>
+It was in the yard in front of the court house that
+the Constitution of the State was proclaimed by Robert
+Berrian, the secretary of the Constitutional Convention,
+and it was there that George Clinton, the first Governor
+of the State, was inaugurated and took the oath of office.
+It was in the court house that John Jay, chief justice,
+delivered his memorable charge to the grand jury in<a name="page139" id="page139"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;139]</span>
+September, 1777, and at the opening said: "Gentlemen,
+it affords me very sensible pleasure to congratulate you
+on the dawn of that free, mild, and equal government
+which now begins to rise and break from amidst the
+clouds of anarchy, confusion and licentiousness, which the
+arbitrary and violent domination of the King of Great
+Britain has spread, in greater or less degree, throughout
+this and other American states. And it gives me particular
+satisfaction to remark that the first fruits of our
+excellent Constitution appear in a part of this State whose
+inhabitants have distinguished themselves by having
+unanimously endeavored to deserve them." The court
+house bell was originally imported from Holland.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Pinched by famine and menaced by foe</p>
+<p>In the cruel winters of long ago,</p>
+<p>They worked and prayed and for freedom wrought,</p>
+<p>Freedom of speech and freedom of thought.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Frederica Davis Hatfield.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The burning of Kingston seemed unnecessarily cruel,
+and it is said that Vaughan was wide of the truth when,
+to justify the same, he claimed that he had been fired
+upon from dwellings in the village. General Sharpe in
+his address before the Holland Society says: "The history
+of this county begins to be interesting at the earliest
+stages of American history: Visited by Dutchmen in
+1614, and again in 1620, it was in the very earliest
+Colonial history, one of the strong places of the Province
+of New York. The British museum contains the report
+of the Rev. John Miller, written in the year 1695, who,
+after 'having been nearly three years resident in the
+Province of New York, in America, as chaplain of His
+Majesty's forces there, and constantly attending the Governor,
+had opportunity of observing many things of considerable
+consequence in relation to the Christians and
+Indians, and had also taken the drafts of all the cities,
+towns, forts and churches of any note within the same.'
+These are his own words, and he adds that in the Province
+of New York 'the places of strength are chiefly three,
+the city of New York, the city of Albany, and the town
+of Kingstone, in Ulster.' The east, north and west fronts
+ran along elevations overlooking the lowlands and having
+a varying altitude of from twenty to thirty feet. The<a name="page140" id="page140"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;140]</span>
+enclosure comprehended about twenty-five acres of land.
+There were salients, or horn works at each end of the
+four angles, with a circular projection at the middle of
+the westerly side, where the elevation was less than upon
+the northerly and easterly sides. The church standing
+upon the ground where we now are, was enclosed with
+a separate stockade, to be used as the last resort in case
+of disaster, and, projecting from this separate fortification,
+a strong block-house commanded and enfiladed the
+approaches to the southerly side, which was a plain. The
+local history is of continued and dramatic interest. The
+Indian wars were signalized by a great uprising and
+attack here, which was known as the war of 1663, when
+a considerable number of the inhabitants were killed, a
+still larger number were taken prisoners, and about one-fourth
+of the houses were burned to the ground. Reinforcements
+were sent by the governor-general from New
+Amsterdam, followed by his personal presence, when the
+Indians were driven back to the mountains, and, after a
+tedious campaign, their fields destroyed and the prisoners
+recaptured. When the next great crisis in our history
+came Kingston bore a conspicuous part. It was the scene
+of the formation of the State Government. The Constitution
+was here discussed and adopted. George Clinton
+was called from the Highlands, where, as a brigadier-general
+of the Continental army, he was commanding all
+the forces upon the Hudson River, which were opposing
+the attempts of Sir Henry Clinton to reach the northern
+part of the State and relieve Burgoyne, hemmed in by
+Gates at Saratoga. He was the ideal war governor&mdash;unbuckling
+his sword in the court room, that he might
+take the oath of office, and returning, immediately after
+the simple form of his inauguration, to his command upon
+the Hudson River.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A paradise of beauty in the light</p>
+<p>Poured by the sinking sun, the mountain glows</p>
+<p>In the soft summer evening.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"The court house, standing opposite to us, and rebuilt
+upon its old foundations, and occupying, substantially, the
+same superficies of ground with its predecessors, recalls<a name="page141" id="page141"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;141]</span>
+the dramatic scene where, surrounded by the council of
+safety, and in a square formed by two companies of
+soldiers, he was proclaimed Governor by Egbert Dumond,
+the sheriff of the county, reading his proclamation from
+the top of a barrel, and closing it with the words 'God
+save the people,' for the first time taking the place of
+'God save the King.' The only building in any way
+connected with the civil foundation of this great State
+is still standing, and presents the same appearance that
+it did at the time of its erection, prior to the year 1690.
+It was subsequently occupied by General Armstrong, who,
+while residing here for the better education of his children,
+in Kingston Academy, was appointed minister to
+France. Aaron Burr, then in attendance upon court,
+spent an evening with General Armstrong, at his house,
+and, having observed the merit of sundry sketches, made
+inquiry with regard to, and interested himself in the
+fate of John Vanderlyn, who afterwards painted the
+Landing of Columbus in the Capitol, and Marius upon
+the Ruins of Carthage&mdash;which attracted the attention of
+the elder Napoleon, and established Vanderlyn's fame.
+There are more than forty blue limestone houses of the
+general type found in Holland, still standing to-day, which
+were built before the revolutionary period, and many of
+them before the year 1700."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Are there no scenes to touch the poet's soul,</p>
+    <p class="i2">No deeds of arms to wake the lordly stream,</p>
+  <p>Shall Hudson's billows unregarded roll?</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Joseph Rodman Drake.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>River, oh river! upon thy tide</p>
+<p>Gaily the freighted vessels glide.</p>
+<p>Would that thou thus couldst bear away</p>
+<p>The thoughts that burthen my weary day.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Coal, cement and blue-stone are the prominent industries
+of the city. The cement works yield several million
+dollars annually and employ about two thousand men.
+A million tons of coal enter the Hudson <i>via</i> the Port
+of Rondout from the Wyoming Valley of Pennsylvania
+every year. Blue-stone also meets tide-water at this
+point, brought in from quarries throughout the country
+by rail or by truck. The city of Kingston, the largest
+station on the <i>West Shore</i> between Weehawken and
+Albany, has admirable railroad facilities connecting with
+the <i>Erie Railway</i> at Goshen <i>via</i> the <i>Wallkill Valley</i>, and
+the Catskills <i>via</i> the <i>Ulster &amp; Delaware</i>. All roads centre<a name="page142" id="page142"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;142]</span>
+at the Union Station and the <i>Ulster &amp; Delaware</i> connects
+at Kingston Point with the Hudson River Day Line, also
+with the <i>New York Central</i> by ferry from Rhinebeck.</p>
+<p>
+<b>To the Catskills.</b>&mdash;The two principal routes to the
+Catskills are <i>via</i> Kingston and the <i>Ulster &amp; Delaware
+Railroad</i>, and <i>via</i> Catskill Landing, the <i>Catskill Mountain
+Railway</i> and <i>Otis Elevating Railway</i> to the summit of
+the mountains. It has occurred to the writer to divide
+the mountain section in two parts:</p>
+<p><a name="p142" id="p142"></a>
+<b>The Southern Catskills.</b>&mdash;Kingston Point, where the
+steamer lands is indeed a <i>picturesque portal to a picturesque
+journey</i>. The beautiful park at the landing presents
+the most beautiful frontage of any pleasure ground
+along the river. Artistic pagodas located at effective
+points add greatly to the natural landscape effect, and
+excursionists <i>via</i> Day Line from Albany have a delightful
+spot for lunch and recreation while waiting for the return
+steamer. In the busy months of mountain travel it is
+interesting to note the rush and hurry between the landing
+of the steamer and the departure of the train. The
+"all aboard" is given, and as we stand on the rear platform
+a friend points north to a bluff near Kingston Point
+and says the Indian name is "Ponckhockie"&mdash;signifying
+a burial ground. The old redoubts of Kingston, on the
+left, were defenses used in early days against the Indians.</p>
+<p>
+After leaving Kingston Union Depot, the most important
+station on the <i>West Shore Railroad</i>, and the terminus of
+the <i>Wallkill Valley Railroad</i>, we pass through Stony
+Hollow, eight miles from Rondout, where the traveler
+will note the stone tracks in the turnpike below, on the
+right side of the car, used by quarry wagons. Crossing
+the Stony Hollow ravine, we reach West Hurley, nine
+miles from Rondout and 540 feet above the sea.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Overlook</b> commands an extensive view,&mdash;with an
+area of 30,000 square miles, from the peaks of New
+Hampshire and the Green Mountains of Vermont to the
+hills of New Jersey and Pennsylvania. To the east the<a name="page143" id="page143"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;143]</span>
+valley reaches away with its towns and villages to the
+blue hills of Massachusetts and Connecticut, and, through
+this beautiful valley, the Hudson for a hundred miles is
+reduced to a mere ribbon of light. Woodstock, at the 
+foot of the Overlook, is popular with summer visitors,
+and is a good starting point for the mountain outlook.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Let me forget the cares I leave behind,</p>
+<p>And with an humble spirit bow before</p>
+<p>The Maker of these everlasting hills.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Bayard Taylor.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Olive Branch</b> is the pretty name of the station above
+West Hurley. Temple Pond, at the foot of Big Toinge
+Mountain, covers about one hundred acres, and affords
+boating and fishing to those visiting the foothills of the
+Southern Catskills.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Brown's Station</b> is three miles beyond, and near at hand
+Winchell's Falls on the Esopus. The Esopus Creek comes
+in view near this station for the first time after leaving
+Kingston. The route now has pleasant companionship
+for twenty miles or more with the winding stream.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Brodhead's Bridge</b> is delightfully located on its wooded
+banks near the base of High Point, and near at hand
+is a bright cascade known as Bridal Veil Falls.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Then climb the Ontioras to behold</p>
+    <p class="i2">The lordly Hudson marching to the main,</p>
+  <p>And say what bard in any land of old</p>
+    <p class="i2">Had such a river to inspire his strain.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Thomas William Parsons.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Shokan</b>, 18 miles from Rondout. Here the road takes
+a northerly course and we are advised by Mr. Van Loan's
+guide to notice on the left "a group of five mountains
+forming a crescent; the peaks of these mountains are
+four miles distant;" the right-hand one is the "Wittenberg,"
+and the next "Mount Cornell." Boiceville and
+Mount Pleasant, 700 feet above the Hudson, are next
+reached. We enter the beautiful Shandaken Valley, and
+three miles of charming mountain scenery bring us to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Ph&oelig;nicia</b>, 29 miles from Rondout and 790 feet above
+the Hudson. This is one of the central points of the
+Catskills which the mountain streams (nature's engineers),
+indicated several thousand years ago. Readers
+of "Hiawatha" will remember that Gitche Manitou, the
+mighty, traced with his finger the way the streams and
+rivers should run. The tourist will be apt to think that
+he used his thumb in marking out the wild grandeur of
+Stony Clove. The Tremper House has a picturesque location<a name="page144" id="page144"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;144]</span>
+in a charming valley, which seems to have been cut
+to fit, like a beautiful carpet, and tacked down to the
+edge of these grand old mountains. A fifteen minutes'
+walk up Mount Tremper gives a wide view, from which
+the Lake Mohonk House is sometimes seen, forty miles
+away. Ph&oelig;nicia is one of the most important stations
+on the line&mdash;the southern terminus of the Stony Clove
+and Catskill Mountain division of the <i>Ulster &amp; Delaware</i>
+system. Keeping to the main line for the present we
+pass through Allaben, formerly known as Fox Hollow,
+and come to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Shandaken</b>, 35 miles from Rondout and 1,060 feet in
+altitude, an Indian name signifying "rapid water." Here
+are large hotels and many boarding houses and the town
+is a central point for many mountain spots and shady
+retreats in every direction&mdash;all of which are well described
+in one of the handsomest summer resort guides of the
+season, the handbook of the <i>Ulster &amp; Delaware Railroad</i>.
+Three miles beyond Shandaken we come to a little station
+whose name reminds one of the plains: <i>Big Indian</i>, 1,209
+feet above the river.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+            <p class="i12">Along the ragged top</p>
+  <p>Smiles a rich stripe of gold that up still glides</p>
+  <p>Until it dwindles to a thread and then,</p>
+  <p>As breath glides from a mirror, melts away.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Big Indian.</b>&mdash;It is said that about a century ago, a
+noble red man dwelt in these parts, who, early in life,
+turned his attention to agriculture instead of scalping,
+and won thereby the respect of the community. Tradition
+has it that he was about seven feet in height, but
+was overpowered by wolves, and was buried by his
+brethren not far from the station, where a "big Indian"
+was carved out of a tree near by for his monument. An
+old and reliable inhabitant stated that he remembered the
+rude statue well, and often thought that it ought to be
+saved for a relic, as the stream was washing away the
+roots; but it was finally carried down by a freshet, and
+probably found its way to some fire-place in the Esopus
+Valley. "So man passes away, as with a flood." There
+is another tale, one of love but less romantic, wherein he
+was killed by his rival and placed upright in a hollow<a name="page145" id="page145"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;145]</span>
+tree. Perhaps neither tradition is true, and quite possibly
+the Big Indian name grew out of some misunderstanding
+between the Indians and white settlers over a hundred
+years ago. As the train leaves the station it begins a
+grade of 150 feet per mile to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Pine Hill</b>, a station perched on the slope of Belle Ayr
+Mountain. This is the watershed between the Esopus and
+the Delaware, and 226 feet above us, around the arcs of
+a double horseshoe, is the railway summit, 1,886 feet
+above the tide.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Grand Hotel Station.</b>&mdash;The New Grand, the second
+largest hotel in the Catskills, with a frontage of 700 feet,
+stands on a commanding terrace less than half a mile
+from the station. The main building faces southwest and
+overlooks the hamlet of Pine Hill, down the Shandaken
+Valley to Big Indian. The mountains, "grouped like giant
+kings" in the distance are Slide Mountain, Panther Mountain,
+Table and Balsam Mountains. Panther Mountain,
+directly over Big Indian Station, with Atlas-like shoulders,
+being nearer, seems higher, and is often mistaken for
+Slide Mountain. Table Mountain, to the right of the
+Slide, is the divide between the east branch of the Neversink
+and the Rondout.</p>
+<p>
+Continuing our journey from the summit we pass
+through Fleischmann's to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Arkville</b>, railway station for Margaretville, one and a
+half miles distant, and Andes twelve miles&mdash;connected by
+stages. Furlough Lake, the mountain home of George
+Gould, is seven miles from Arkville. An artificial cave
+near Arkville, with hieroglyphics on the inner walls,
+attracts many visitors. Passing through Kelly's Corners
+and Halcottville, we come to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Roxbury</b> (altitude 1,497 feet), a quaint old village at
+the upper end of which is the Gould Memorial Church.
+Miss Helen Gould spends part of her summer here and
+has done much to make beautiful the village of her father's
+boyhood. Grand Gorge comes next 1,570 feet above the<a name="page146" id="page146"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;146]</span>
+tide, where stages are taken for Gilboa three miles, and
+Prattsville five miles distant, on the Schoharie Creek.
+Pratt's Rocks are visited by hundreds because of the
+carving in bas-relief of Colonel Pratt and figures emblematic
+of his career.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Softly the mist-mantled mountains arise</p>
+<p>Dim in the dawning of opal-hued skies,</p>
+<p>Nearer and clearer peaks burst on the view</p>
+<p>Lightened by silvery flashes of dew.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>James Kennedy.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Stamford</b> is now at hand, seventy-six miles from the
+Hudson, about 1,800 feet above the sea, named by settlers
+from Stamford, Conn. Here are many large hotels, chief
+among them The Rexmere and Churchill Hall. Thirteen
+miles from Stamford we come to Hobart, four miles
+further to South Kortright, and then to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Bloomville</b>, eighty-nine miles from the Hudson, where a
+stage line of eight miles takes the traveler to Delhi. Passing
+through Kortright, ninety-two miles from the Hudson,
+1,868 feet above the tide, East Meredith, Davenport, West
+Davenport (where passengers <i>en route</i> for Cooperstown
+and Richfield Springs are transferred to the <i>Cooperstown
+and Charlotte Valley R. R.,</i>) and four miles bring us to</p>
+<p>
+<b>Oneonta</b>, on the Susquehanna division of the <i>Hudson &amp;
+Delaware R. R.,</i> Returning to Ph&oelig;nicia we take train
+through "Stony Clove Notch," passing Chichester, Lanesville,
+Edgewood and Kaaterskill Junction to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Hunter</b>, terminus of the Stony Clove Road. Resuming
+the eastward journey at Kaaterskill Junction we come to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tannersville</b>, near which are Elka Park, Onteora Park
+and Schoharie Manor.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Haines Corners</b> is another busy station, at the head of
+Kaaterskill Clove. On the slope of Mt. Lincoln have also
+been established "Twilight," "Santa Cruz" and "Sunset"
+Parks.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Laurel House Station.</b>&mdash;Here the voice of a waterfall
+invites the tourist to one of the most famous spots in the
+Catskill region and a mile beyond is</p>
+<p>
+<b>Kaaterskill Station</b>, 2,145 feet above the sea, the highest
+point reached by any railroad in the State, and half a
+mile or so further we alight on a rocky balcony, known
+for its beautiful view all over the world.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>From greens and shades where the Kaaterskill leaps,</p>
+<p>From cliffs where the wood-flowers cling.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page147" id="page147"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;147]</span>
+
+
+<h4>Kingston to Catskill.</h4>
+<p>
+<b>Rhinecliff</b>, with its historic Beekman stone house, is on
+the east bank of the river opposite Kingston. The old
+mansion, on the hillside, above the landing, was built
+before 1700 by William Beekman, first patroon of this
+section. It was used as a church and as a fort during
+the Indian struggles and still preserves the scar of a
+cannon ball from a British ship.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Ferncliff</b>, a mile north of the Beekman House, is the
+home of John Jacob Astor, formerly the property of
+William Astor, and above this</p>
+<p>
+<b>Clifton Point</b>, once known as the Garretson place, the
+noted Methodist preacher whose wife was sister of Chancellor
+Livingston, and above this Douglas Merritt's home
+known as "Leacote." Flatbush landing lies on the west
+bank opposite Ferncliff.</p>
+<p>
+One might almost imagine from the names of places
+and individuals here grouped on both banks of the river,
+that this reach of the Hudson was a bit of old Scotland:
+Montgomery Place and Annandale with its Livingstons,
+Donaldsons and Kidds on the east side, and Glenerie,
+Glasgo and Lake Katrine on the west.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The Catskills to the northward rise</p>
+    <p class="i2">With massive swell and towering crest&mdash;</p>
+  <p>The old-time "mountains of the skies,"</p>
+    <p class="i2">The threshold of eternal rest.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Barrytown</b> is just above "Daisy Island," on the east
+bank, 96 miles from New York. It is said when General
+Jackson was President, and this village wanted a postoffice,
+that he would not allow it under the name of
+Barrytown, from personal dislike to General Barry, and
+suggested another name; but the people were loyal to
+their old friend, and <i>went without</i> a postoffice until a new
+administration. The name of Barrytown, therefore, stands
+as a monument to pluck. The place was once known as
+Lower Red Hook Landing. Passing "Massena," the Aspinwall
+property, we see&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p147" id="p147"></a>
+<b>Montgomery Place</b>, residence of Carleton Hunt and
+sisters, about one-half mile north of Barrytown, formerly<a name="page148" id="page148"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;148]</span>
+occupied by Mrs. Montgomery, wife of General Montgomery
+and sister of Chancellor Livingston. The following 
+dramatic incident connected with Montgomery Place
+is recorded in Stone's "History of New York City":
+"In 1818 the legislature of New York&mdash;DeWitt Clinton,
+Governor&mdash;ordered the remains of General Montgomery
+to be removed from Canada to New York. This was in
+accordance with the wishes of the Continental Congress,
+which, in 1776, had voted the beautiful cenotaph to his
+memory that now stands in the wall of St. Paul's Church,
+fronting Broadway. When the funeral cortege reached
+Whitehall, N. Y., the fleet stationed there received them
+with appropriate honors; and on the 4th of July they
+arrived in Albany. After lying in state in that city
+over Sunday, the remains were taken to New York, and
+on Wednesday deposited, with military honors, in their
+final resting place, at St. Paul's. Governor Clinton had
+informed Mrs. Montgomery of the hour when the steamer
+'Richmond,' conveying the body, would pass her home.
+At her own request, she stood alone on the portico. It
+was forty years since she had parted from her husband,
+to whom she had been wedded but two years when he
+fell on the heights of Quebec; yet she had remained faithful
+to the memory of her 'soldier,' as she always called
+him. The steamboat halted before the mansion; the band
+played the 'Dead March,' and a salute was fired; and the
+ashes of the venerated hero, and the departed husband,
+passed on. The attendants of the Spartan widow now
+appeared, but, overcome by the tender emotions of the
+moment, she had swooned and fallen to the floor."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The river that he loved so well</p>
+    <p class="i2">Like a full heart is awed to calm,</p>
+  <p>The winter air that wafts his knell</p>
+    <p class="i2">Is fragrant with autumnal balm.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The Sawkill Creek flows through a beautiful ravine in
+Montgomery grounds and above this is the St. Stephen's
+College and Preparatory School of the Episcopal Church
+in the Diocese of New York. Beyond and above this are
+Mrs. E. Bartlett's home and Deveaux Park, afterwards
+Almonte, the property of Col. Charles Livingston. We
+are now approaching&mdash; </p>
+
+ <a name="page149" id="page149"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;149]</span>
+<p>
+<b>Cruger's Island</b>, with its indented South Bay reaching
+up toward the bluff crowned by Montgomery Place. There
+is an old Indian tradition that no person ever died on
+this island, which a resident recently said still held true.
+It is remarkable, moreover, in possessing many antique
+carved stones from a city of Central America built into
+the walls of a temple modeled after the building from
+which the graven stones were brought. The "ruin" at
+the south end of the island is barely visible from the
+steamer, hidden as it is by foliage, but it is distinctly seen
+by <i>New York Central</i> travelers in the winter season. Colonel
+Cruger has spared no expense in the adornment of
+his grounds, and a beautiful drive is afforded the visitor.
+The island is connected by a roadway across a tongue of
+land which separates the North from the South Bay.
+Above this island east of the steamer's channel across
+the railway of the <i>New York Central</i>, we see a historic
+bit of water known as&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>The North Bay.</b> It was here that Robert Fulton developed
+his steamboat invention, receiving pecuniary aid from
+Chancellor Livingston, and it is fitting to give at this
+place a concise account of</p>
+<p><a name="p149" id="p149"></a>
+<b>Steam Navigation</b>, which after many attempts and
+failures on both sides of the Atlantic was at last crowned
+with success on the Hudson.</p>
+<p>
+<b>John Fitch</b> first entertained his idea of a steamboat in
+1785, and sent to the general assembly of the State of
+Pennsylvania a model in 1786. New Jersey and Delaware
+in 1787, gave him exclusive right to navigate their waters
+for fourteen years, which, however, was never undertaken.
+His steamboat "Perseverance," on the Delaware
+in 1787, was eighteen feet in length and six feet beam.
+The name, however, was a misnomer, as it was abandoned.
+These facts appear by papers on file in the
+State Library at Albany. After his experiment on the
+Delaware, he traveled through France and England, but
+not meeting with the encouragement that he expected,<a name="page150" id="page150"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;150]</span>
+became poor and returned home, working his passage as
+a common sailor. In 1797 he constructed a little boat
+which was propelled by steam in the old Collect Pond,
+New York, below Canal Street, between Broadway and
+the East River.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Exactly one hundred years separate the first paddle-boat</p>
+<p>of Papin from the first steamboat of Fulton.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Victor Hugo.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+According to records in the State Library, the steam
+was sufficiently high to propel the boat once, twice, or
+thrice around the pond. "When more water being introduced
+into the boiler or pot and steam was generated,
+she was again ready to start on another expedition."
+The boat was a yawl about eighteen feet in length and
+six feet beam. She was started at the buoy with a
+small oar when the propeller was used. The boiler was
+a ten or twelve gallon iron pot. This boat with a portion
+of the machinery was abandoned by Fitch, and left to
+decay on the muddy shore. Shortly after this he died
+in Kentucky in 1798. Had he lived, or, had the fortune
+like Fulton, to find such a patron as Livingston, his
+success might have been assured. His visit to Europe
+may have inspired Symington's experiment on Dalswinton
+Loch in 1788, which made five miles an hour, and
+another steamboat on the Forth of Clyde which made
+seven miles an hour in 1789, and the "Charlotte Dundas"
+in 1802, which drew a load of seventy tons over three
+miles against a strong gale. Something, however, was
+wanting and the idea of successful navigation was abandoned
+in Britain till after the invention of Robert Fulton
+which made steam navigation an assured fact.</p>
+<p>
+"How necessary it is to succeed," said Kosciusko, at
+the grave of Washington, and this is also as true in
+the story of invention as in the struggle for freedom:
+"That they never fail who die in a great cause though
+years elapse, and others share as dark a doom. They
+but augment the deep and sweeping thoughts which overpower
+all others and conduct the world at last to fortune."</p>
+<p>
+It was the writer's privilege in 1891, to deliver the
+unveiling address of a monument to Symington at his<a name="page151" id="page151"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;151]</span>
+birthplace, Lead Hills, Scotland. In the tribute then paid
+to the genius of the great Scotchman who had done so
+much for invention in many directions, he said the difference
+between Symington and Fulton was this: "Each
+worked diligently at the same idea, but it was the good
+fortune of Fulton, so far as the steamboat was considered,
+to make his 'invention' 'go.'"</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I see the traditions of my fathers are true; I see far,</p>
+<p>far away the big bird again floating upon the waters,</p>
+<p>so far my warriors that you cannot see it, but ere two</p>
+<p>autumns have scattered the leaves upon my grave, the</p>
+<p>pale face will claim our hunting grounds.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Aepgin, King of the Mahicans.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+To quote from a British writer, the "Comet" of Henry
+Bell on the Clyde in 1812, was the first example of a
+steamboat brought into serviceable use within European
+waters, and the writer incidentally added that steam
+navigation in Britain took practical form almost on the
+spot where James Watt, the illustrious improver of the
+steam engine was born. The word "improver" is well
+put. It has much to do with the story of many inventions.
+The labor of Fitch was far-reaching in many
+directions, and it detracts nothing from Fulton's fame
+that the experiments of Fitch and Symington preceded
+his final triumph.</p>
+<p>
+Rumsey's claim to the idea of application of steam in
+1785 does not seem to hold good. General Washington,
+to whom he referred as to a conversation in 1785, replied
+to a correspondent that the idea of Rumsey, as he remembered
+and understood it, was simply the propelling of a
+boat by a machine, the power of which was to be merely
+manual labor.</p>
+<p><a name="p151" id="p151"></a>
+<b>Robert Fulton</b> was born in 1765, and at the time of
+Symington's experiment in Scotland, was twenty-three
+years of age. He was then an artist student of Benjamin
+West, in London, but, after several years of study,
+felt that he was better adapted for engineering, and soon
+thereafter wrote a work on canal navigation. In 1797
+he went to Paris. He resided there seven years and built
+a small steamboat on the Seine, which worked well, but
+made very slow progress.</p>
+<p>
+It is remarkable that the two most practical achievements
+of our century have been consummated by artists,&mdash;<a name="page152" id="page152"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;152]</span>
+the telegraph by Morse after a score of "invented" failures, 
+and the successful application of steam to navigation
+by Fulton.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I was glad to think that among the last memorable</p>
+<p>beauties which have glided past us were pictures traced</p>
+<p>by no common hand, not easily to grow old or fade beneath</p>
+<p>the dust of time&mdash;the Kaatskill Mountains, Sleepy</p>
+<p>Hollow and the Tappan Zee.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Charles Dickens.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Soon after his return to New York he brought his idea
+to successful completion. His reputation was now assured,
+and his invention of "torpedoes" gave him additional
+fame. Congress not only purchased these instruments
+of warfare, but also set apart $320,000 for a steam frigate
+to be constructed under his supervision.</p>
+<p>
+Through Livingston's influence the legislature passed
+an act granting to Fulton the exclusive privilege of navigating
+the waters of the State by means of steam power.
+The only conditions imposed were that he should, within
+a year, construct a boat of not less than "twenty tons
+burthen," which should navigate the Hudson at a speed
+not less than four miles an hour, and that one such boat
+should not fail of running regularly between New York
+and Albany for the space of one year.</p>
+<p><a name="p152" id="p152"></a>
+<b>"The Clermont,"</b> named after the ancestral home of
+the Livingstons, was built for "Livingston and Fulton,"
+by Charles Brownne in New York. The machinery came
+from the works of Watt and Bolton, England. She left
+the wharf of Corlear's Hook and the newspapers published
+with pride that she made in speed from four to
+five miles an hour. She was 100 feet in length and boasted
+of "three elegant cabins, one for the ladies and two for
+the gentlemen, with kitchen, library, and every convenience."
+She averaged 100 passengers up or down the
+river. Every passenger paid $7, for which he had dinner,
+tea and bed, breakfast and dinner, with the liberty to
+carry 200 pounds of baggage.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The stars are on the running stream,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And fling, as its ripples gently flow,</p>
+  <p>A burnished length of wavy-beam</p>
+    <p class="i2">In an eel-like, spiral line below.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Joseph Rodman Drake.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+An original letter from Robert Fulton to the minister
+of Bavaria at the court of France, written in 1809, upon
+the question of putting steamboats on the Danube, is of
+interest at the present day: "The distance from New
+York to Albany is 160 miles; the tide rises as far as
+Albany; its velocity is on an average 1 &frac12; miles an hour.</p>
+
+<a name="page153" id="page153"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;153]</span>
+<p>
+We thus have the tide half the time in favor of the boat
+and half the time against her. The boat is 100 feet
+long, 16 feet wide and 7 feet deep; the steam engine is
+of the power of 20 horses; she runs 4 &frac12; miles an hour
+in still water. Consequently when the tide is 1 &frac12; miles
+an hour in her favor she runs 5 &frac34; miles an hour. When
+the tide is against her she runs 2 &frac34; miles an hour.
+Thus in theory her average velocity is 4 &frac14; miles an hour,
+but in practice we take advantage of the currents. When
+they are against us we keep near shore in the eddies,
+where the current is weak or the eddy in our favor;
+when the tide is in our favor we take the centre of the
+stream and draw every advantage from it. In this way
+our average speed is 5 miles an hour, and we run to
+Albany, 160 miles, in about 32 hours." Previous to the
+invention of the steamboat there were two modes of
+conveyance. One was by the common sloops; they charged
+42 francs, and were on the average four days in making
+the passage&mdash;they have sometimes been as long as eight
+days. The dread of such tedious voyages prevented great
+numbers of persons from going in sloops. The second
+mode of conveyance was the mail, or stage. They charged
+$8, or 44 francs, and the expenses on the road were about
+$5, or 30 francs, so that expenses amounted to $13. The
+time required was 48 hours. The steamboat has rendered
+the communication between New York and Albany so cheap
+and certain that the number of passengers are rapidly
+increasing. Persons who live 150 miles beyond Albany
+know the hour she will leave that city, and making their
+calculations to arrive at York, stay two days to transact
+business, return with the boat, and are with their families
+in one week. The facility has rendered the boat a great
+favorite with the public.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Through many a blooming wild and woodland green  </p>
+<p>The Hudson's sleeping waters winding stray.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Margaretta V. Faugeres.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+A telegram from Exeter, N. H., in 1886, recorded the
+death of Dr. William Perry, the oldest person in Exeter
+and the oldest graduate of Harvard College, at the age
+of ninety-eight years. He was the sole survivor of the<a name="page154" id="page154"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;154]</span>
+passengers on Fulton's first steamboat on its first trip
+down the Hudson, and the connecting link of three generations 
+of progress. He was born in 1788, was a member
+of 1811 in Harvard, and grandfather of Sarah Orne
+Jewett, the authoress.</p>
+<p>
+The writer remembers his grandfather telling him of
+going to Hudson as a boy to see the "steamboat" make
+its first trip, and how it had been talked of for a long
+time as "Fulton's Folly." One thing is sure it was a
+small cradle wherein to rock the "baby-giant" of a
+great century. How Fulton would wonder if he could
+visit to-day the great steamships born of his invention&mdash;successors
+of the "Clermont" of "Twenty tons burthen."
+How he would marvel, standing on the deck of the "Hendrick
+Hudson," to see the water fall away from the prow
+cut by a rainbow scimitar of spray! at the great engines
+of polished steel, working almost noiselessly, and wonder
+at the way the pilot lands at the docks, even as a driver
+brings his buggy to a horse-block; for in his day, and
+long afterwards, passengers were "slued" ashore in
+little boats, as it was not regarded feasible to land a
+steamboat against a wharf. It would surely be an "experience"
+for us to see the passengers at West Point,
+Newburgh, or Poughkeepsie "slued ashore" to-day in
+little rowboats.</p>
+<p><a name="p154" id="p154"></a>
+<b>Tivoli</b>, above North Bay took its name from a pre-revolutionary
+"Chateau," home of the late Colonel DePeyster.
+The "Callender Place" to the southeast, was
+formerly the property of Johnston Livingston. Two miles
+from the river is the home of Mr. J. N. Lewis, a morning
+view from whose veranda is still remembered, and it is
+to him that the writer is indebted for a pleasant trip to
+the ruins on Cruger's Island. The residence of the late
+J. Watts DePeyster stands on a commanding bluff north
+of the railway station and it was beside his open fireside
+many years ago that he told the writer how his house
+was saved from Vaughan's cannon. "Rose Hill," was<a name="page155" id="page155"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;155]</span>
+mistaken for "Clermont," but a well-stocked cellar mollified
+the British captain.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>O! stream of the mountains if answer of thine</p>
+<p>Could rise from thy waters to questions of mine,</p>
+<p>Methinks through the din of thy thronged banks a moan</p>
+<p>Of sorrow would come for the days that are gone.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Legends of the Hudson.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+It grew like one of the old English family houses, with
+the increase of the family, until, in strange but picturesque
+outline&mdash;the prevailing style being Italian, somewhat
+in the shape of a cross&mdash;it is now 114 feet long
+by 87 feet deep. The tower in the rear, devoted to
+library purposes, rises to the height of about sixty feet.
+This library, first and last, has contained between twenty
+and thirty thousand volumes. Such indefinite language
+is used, because the owner donated over half this number
+to the New York Historical Society, the New York Society
+Library, and a number of other similar organizations in
+different parts of the United States. As a working
+library, replete with dictionaries and cyclop&aelig;dias, in many
+tongues and on almost every subject, it is a marvel. It
+is likewise very valuable for its collections on military
+and several other special topics. From it was selected
+and given to the New York Historical Society, one of
+the finest possible collections on the History of Holland,
+from the earliest period down to the present time. "Rose
+Hill" was left in his will to the Leake and Watts Orphan
+Home.</p>
+<p>
+A ferry from Tivoli to Saugerties affords communication
+between the two villages. Glasco Landing, on the
+west bank, lies between the residences of Henry Corse,
+on the south, and Mrs. Vanderpool (sister of the late
+President Martin Van Buren), on the north.</p>
+<p>
+In locating the residences along the river and dealing
+so often in the words "north" and "south," we are
+reminded of a good story of Martin Van Buren. It is
+said that it was as difficult to get a direct answer from
+him as from Bismarck or Gladstone. Two friends were
+going up with him one day on a river boat and one
+made a wager with the other that a direct answer could
+not be secured on any question from the astute statesman.
+They approached the ex-president and one of them<a name="page156" id="page156"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;156]</span>
+said, "Mr. Van Buren, my friend and I have had a little
+discussion; will you tell us, does or does not the sun rise
+in the east?" The ex-president calmly drew up a chair,
+and said, "You must remember that the east and west
+are merely relative terms." "That settles it," said the
+questioner, "I'll pay the bet."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>How grateful is the sudden change</p>
+    <p class="i2">From arid pavements to the grass,</p>
+  <p>From narrow streets that thousands range</p>
+    <p class="i2">To meadows where June zephyrs pass.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>It is a drop for the old Hudson, and a merry time it</p>
+<p>has until it gets down off the mountains. I have thought</p>
+<p>how long it would be before that very water which was</p>
+<p>made for the wilderness will be under the bottom of a</p>
+<p>vessel and tossing in the salt sea.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>James Fenimore Cooper.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p156" id="p156"></a>
+<b>Saugerties</b>, 101 miles from New York. From its location
+(being the nearest of the river towns to the Catskills),
+it naturally hoped to secure a large share of tourist travel,
+but Kingston and Catskill presented easier and better facilities
+of access and materially shortened the hours of arrival
+at the summit. Plaaterkill Clove, wilder and grander than
+Kaaterskill Clove, about nine miles west of the village,
+has Plaaterkill Mountain, Indian Head, Twin Mountains
+and Sugar Loaf on the south, and High Peak and Round
+Top on the north. Its eighteen waterfalls not only give
+great variety to a pedestrian trip, but also ample field
+for the artist's brush. The Esopus, meeting the Hudson
+at Saugerties, supplies unfailing waterpower for its manufacturing
+industries, prominent among which are the
+Sheffield Paper Company, the Barkley Fibre Company
+(wood pulp), the Martin Company (card board) and a
+white lead factory. There are also large shipments of
+blue stone, evidences of which are seen in many places
+near at hand along the western bank. Many attractive
+strolls near Saugerties invite the visitor, notably the walk
+to Barkley Heights south of the Esopus. An extensive
+view is obtained from the <i>West Shore Railroad</i> station
+west of the village and the drive thereto. North of
+Saugerties will be seen the docks and hamlets of Malden,
+Evesport and West Camp, also the residences of J. G.
+Myers to the northwest of the Rock islet, and of H. T.
+Coswell, near which the steamer passes to the west of
+Livingston Flats. The west shore at West Camp was
+settled by exiles from the Palatinate, about 1710, and one
+of the old churches still stands a short distance inland.
+We are now in the midst of&mdash;</p>
+
+ <a name="page157" id="page157"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;157]</span>
+<p>
+<b>The Livingston Country</b>, whose names and memories
+dot the landscape and adorn the history of the Hudson
+Valley. Dutchess and Columbia Counties meet on the east
+bank opposite that part of Saugerties where Sawyer's
+Creek flows into the Hudson. "Idele" was originally
+called the Chancellor Place. "Clermont" is about half
+a mile to the north, the home of Clermont Livingston,
+an early manor house built by Robert R. Livingston, who,
+next to Hamilton, was the greatest New York statesman
+during our revolutionary period. The manor church, not
+seen from the river, is at the old village of Clermont,
+about five miles due west from the mansion. The Livingstons
+are of Scotch ancestry and have an illustrious
+lineage. Mary Livingston, one of the "four Marys" who
+attended Mary Queen of Scots during her childhood and
+education in France, was of the same family. Robert
+Livingston, born in 1654, came to the Hudson Valley
+with his father, and in 1686 purchased from the Indians
+a tract of country reaching east twenty-two miles to the
+boundary of Massachusetts with a river frontage of twelve
+miles. This purchase was created, "the Lordship and
+Manor of Livingston," by Governor Thomas Dongan. In
+1692 Robert built the manor house, but did not reside
+in it for twenty years. He was a friend of Captain Kidd
+and a powerful promoter of his enterprises. The manor
+consisted of 260,000 acres. The estate of 13,000 acres,
+given to his second son Robert, was called Clermont.
+Philip, his first son, inherited 247,000 acres, by old-time
+primogeniture succession. From each of these two families
+sprang a line of vigorous and resolute men. Robert
+R. Livingston, our revolutionary hero, descended from
+the smaller estate, owned "Clermont" at the time it was
+burned by the British. It was soon rebuilt and Lafayette
+was a guest at the mansion during his visit to the United
+States in 1824.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Let us not then neglect to improve the advantages we</p>
+<p>possess; let us avail ourselves of the present moment to</p>
+<p>fix lasting peace upon the broad basis of natural union;</p>
+<p>let us while it is still in our power lay the foundation of</p>
+<p>our long happiness and the happiness of our posterity.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Robert R. Livingston.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Above West Camp landing on the west side, is the
+boundary line between Ulster and Greene Counties; Ulster<a name="page158" id="page158"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;158]</span>
+having kept us company all the way from Hampton Point
+opposite New Hamburgh. Throughout this long stretch
+of the river one industry must not be overlooked, well
+described by John Burroughs:</p>
+<p><a name="p158" id="p158"></a>
+<b>The Shad Industry.</b>&mdash;"When the chill of the ice is out
+of the river and the snow and frost out of the air, the
+fishermen along the shore are on the lookout for the first
+arrival of shad. A few days of warm south wind the
+latter part of April will soon blow them up; it is true
+also, that a cold north wind will as quickly blow them
+back. Preparations have been making for them all winter.
+In many a farm-house or other humble dwelling along
+the river, the ancient occupation of knitting of fish-nets
+has been plied through the long winter evenings, perhaps
+every grown member of the household, the mother and
+her daughters as well as the father and his sons, lending
+a hand. The ordinary gill or drift-net used for shad
+fishing in the Hudson is from a half to three-quarters
+of a mile long, and thirty feet wide, containing about
+fifty or sixty pounds of fine linen twine, and it is a labor
+of many months to knit one. Formerly the fish were taken
+mainly by immense seines, hauled by a large number of
+men; but now all the deeper part of the river is fished
+with the long, delicate gill-nets that drift to and fro
+with the tide, and are managed by two men in a boat.
+The net is of fine linen thread, and is practically invisible
+to the shad in the obscure river current: it hangs suspended
+perpendicularly in the water, kept in position by buoys
+at the top and by weights at the bottom; the buoys are
+attached by cords twelve or fifteen feet long, which allow
+the net to sink out of the reach of the keels of passing
+vessels. The net is thrown out on the ebb tide, stretching
+nearly across the river, and drifts down and then back
+on the flood, the fish being snared behind the gills in
+their efforts to pass through the meshes. I envy fishermen
+their intimate acquaintance with the river. They
+know it by night as well as by day, and learn all its<a name="page159" id="page159"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;159]</span>
+moods and phases. The net is a delicate instrument that
+reveals all the hidden currents and by-ways, as well as
+all the sunken snags and wrecks at the bottom. By day
+the fisherman notes the shape and position of his net
+by means of the line or buoys; by night he marks the
+far end of it with a lantern fastened upon a board or
+block. The night tides he finds differ from the day&mdash;the
+flood at night being much stronger than at other
+times, as if some pressure had been removed with the
+sun, and the freed currents found less hindrance. The
+fishermen have terms and phrases of their own. The
+wooden tray upon which the net is coiled, and which sits
+in the stern of the boat, is called a 'cuddy.' The net
+is divided into 'shots.' If a passing sloop or schooner
+catches it with her centre-board or her anchor, it gives
+way where two or three shoots meet, and thus the whole
+net is not torn. The top cord or line of the net is called
+a 'cimline.' One fisherman 'plugs' another when he puts
+out from the shore and casts in ahead of him, instead
+of going to the general starting place, and taking his
+turn. This always makes bad blood. The luck of the
+born fisherman is about as conspicuous with the gill-net
+as with the rod and line, some boats being noted for
+their great catches the season through. No doubt the
+secret is mainly through application to the business in
+hand, but that is about all that distinguishes the successful
+angler. The shad campaign is one that requires
+pluck and endurance; no regular sleep, no regular meals;
+wet and cold, heat and wind and tempest, and no great
+gains at last. But the sturgeon fishers, who come later
+and are seen the whole summer through, have an indolent,
+lazy time of it. They fish around the 'slack-water,' catching
+the last of the ebb and the first of the flow, and
+hence drift but little either way. To a casual observer
+they appear as if anchored and asleep. But they wake
+up when they have a 'strike,' which may be every day,
+or not once a week. The fishermen keep their eye on<a name="page160" id="page160"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;160]</span>
+the line of buoys, and when two or more of them are
+hauled under, he knows his game has run foul of the
+net, and he hastens to the point. The sturgeon is a pig,
+without the pig's obstinacy. He spends much of the time
+rooting and feeding in the mud at the bottom, and encounters
+the net, coarse and strong, when he goes abroad.
+He strikes, and is presently hopelessly entangled, when
+he comes to the top and is pulled into the boat, like a
+great sleepy sucker. For so dull and lubbery a fish, the
+sturgeon is capable of some very lively antics; as, for
+instance, his habit of leaping full length into the air and
+coming down with a great splash. He has thus been
+known to leap unwittingly into a passing boat, to his own
+great surprise, and to the alarm and consternation of
+the inmates."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The swelling river, into his green gulfs,</p>
+<p>Unshadowed save by passing sails above,</p>
+<p>Takes the redundant glory, and enjoys</p>
+<p>The summer in his chilly bed.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I heard the plaintiff note of the Whip-poor-will from</p>
+<p>the mountain-side, or was startled now and then by the</p>
+<p>sudden leap and heavy splash of the sturgeon.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Washington Irving.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p160" id="p160"></a>
+<b>Germantown.</b>&mdash;Germantown Station is now seen on the
+east bank, and between this and Germantown Dock, three
+miles to the north, is obtained the best view of the "Man
+in the Mountain," readily traced by the following outline:
+The peak to the south is the knee, the next to the
+north is the breast, and two or three above this the chin,
+the nose and the forehead. How often from the slope
+of Hillsdale, forty miles away on the western trend of
+the Berkshires, when a boy, playing by the fountain-heads
+of the Kinderhook and the Roeliffe Jansen's Creek, have
+I looked out upon this mountain range aglow in the sunset,
+and at even-tide heard my grandfather tell of his far-off
+journeys to Towanda, Pennsylvania, when he drove
+through the great Cloves of the Catskills, where twice he
+met "a bear" which retreated at the sound of his old flint-lock,
+and then when I went to sleep at night how I pulled
+the coverlet closer about my head, all on account of those
+two bears that had been dead for more than forty years.</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/193-1000.png"><img src="images/193-513.png" width="513" height="450" alt="THE MAN IN THE MOUNTAIN." border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>THE MAN IN THE MOUNTAIN.</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>And, sister, now my children come</p>
+    <p class="i2">To find the water just as cool,</p>
+  <p>To play about our grandsire's home,</p>
+    <p class="i2">To see our pictures in the pool.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Alps of the Hudson, whose bold summits rise</p>
+<p>Into the upper ether of the skies,</p>
+<p>Cleaving with calm content</p>
+<p>The cloudless crystal of the firmament.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Joel Benton.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The Catskills were called by the Indians On-ti-o-ras, or
+mountains of the sky, as they sometimes seem like clouds
+along the horizon. This range of mountains was supposed
+by the Indians to have been originally a monster who<a name="page161" id="page161"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;161]</span>
+devoured all the children of the red men, until the great
+spirit touched him when he was going down to the salt
+lake to bathe, and here he remains. "Two little lakes
+upon the summit were regarded the eyes of the monster,
+and these are open all the summer; but in the winter
+they are covered with a thick crust or heavy film; but
+whether sleeping or waking tears always trickle down his
+cheeks. In these mountains, according to Indian belief,
+was kept the great treasury of storm and sunshine, presided
+over by an old squaw spirit who dwelt on the highest
+peak of the mountains. She kept day and night shut up
+in her wigwam, letting out only one at a time. She<a name="page162" id="page162"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;162]</span>
+manufactured new moons every month, cutting up the
+old ones into stars," and, like the old &AElig;olus of mythology,
+shut the winds up in the caverns of the hills:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Where Manitou once lived and reigned,</p>
+  <p class="i2">Great Spirit of a race gone by,</p>
+<p>And Ontiora lies enchained</p>
+  <p class="i2">With face uplifted to the sky.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+The Catskill Mountains are now something more than
+a realm of romance and poetry or a mountain range of
+beauty along our western horizon, for, from this time
+forth the old squaw spirit will be kept busy with her
+"Treasury of Tear Clouds," as the water supply of New
+York is to come from these mountain sources.</p>
+<p><a name="p162" id="p162"></a>
+<b>The Catskill Water Supply.</b>&mdash;The cost of this great
+undertaking is estimated at $162,000,000. Four creeks:
+The Esopus, Rondout, Schoharie and Catskill will constitute
+the main source of supply. The total area of the
+entire watershed is over nine hundred square miles, and
+the supply will exceed 800,000,000 gallons daily. The
+work projected will bring to the city 500,000,000 gallons
+per day.</p>
+<p>
+The Ashoken Reservoir, 12 miles long and two miles
+wide, will hold 120,000,000,000 gallons. The Catskill Aqueduct
+supply from Ashoken Reservoir will deliver the
+water without pumping to Hill View Reservoir in Yonkers
+high enough for gravity distribution. It will take from
+ten to fifteen years to complete the work, which is begun
+none too early, as the population of Greater New York
+will be over 5,000,000 in 1915, and its water consumption
+1,000,000,000 gallons. In 1930 the population will
+be 7,000,000 and will call for a consumption of 100,000,000,000
+gallons daily. We are indeed "ancients of the
+earth and in the morning of our times." From the far
+limits of the gathering grounds some of the water will
+flow 130 miles to reach the city hall, and 20 miles further
+to the southern extremity of Staten Island.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The majestic Hudson is on my left,</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Catskills rise in my dream;</p>
+  <p>The cataracts leap from the mountain cleft</p>
+    <p class="i2">And the brooks in the sunlight gleam.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Minot F. Savage.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page163" id="page163"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;163]</span>
+<p>
+Between Old Cro' Nest and Cold Spring the water will
+be syphoned under the Hudson through a concrete tube
+six hundred feet below the surface of the river.</p>
+<p>
+The Croton Water Works, at a cost of about $14,000,000,
+completed in 1842, were regarded the greatest undertaking
+since the Roman Aqueduct. Many improvements to meet
+increased demand have been made since that time. Fifty
+years from now it is quite possible that the Catskill
+System will seem like the Croton of to-day, as a small
+matter, and our next step will be "An Adirondack
+System," making the successive steps of our water supply
+the Croton, the Catskills and the Adirondacks.</p>
+<p>
+It is fortunate that our city destined to be the world's
+emporium, has everything at hand needed for comfort
+and safety.</p>
+<p>
+John Bigelow, the literary and political link of the century,
+born at Malden-on-the-Hudson, in 1817, was present
+at the inauguration of the work at Cold Spring, June, 1907.
+It was the writer's privilege to meet him often on the
+Hudson River steamers in the decade of 1870, and to
+receive from him many graphic descriptions of the early
+life and customs of the Hudson. What memories must
+have thronged upon him as he contrasted the life of three
+generations!</p>
+<p><a name="p163" id="p163"></a>
+<b>The Clover Reach.</b>&mdash;We are now in what is known as
+The Clover Reach of the Hudson which extends to the
+Backerack near Athens. One mile above Germantown
+Dock stood Nine Mile Tree, a landmark among old river
+pilots so named on account of its marking a point nine
+miles from Hudson. Above this the Roeliffe Jansen's Kill
+flows into the river, known by the Indians as Saupenak,
+rising in Hillsdale within a few feet of Greenriver Creek,
+immortal in Bryant's verse. The Greenriver flows east
+into the Housatonic, the Jansen south into Dutchess
+County, whence it takes a northerly course until it joins
+the Hudson. The Burden iron furnaces above the mouth
+of the stream form an ugly feature in the landscape.<a name="page164" id="page164"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;164]</span>
+This is the southern boundary of the Herman Livingston
+estate, whose house is one mile and a half further up
+the river, near Livingston Dock, beneath Oak Hill. Greenville
+station is now seen on the east bank, directly opposite
+Catskill Landing, which the steamer is now approaching.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The fields and waters seem to us this Sabbath morning</p>
+<p>from the summit of the Catskills, no more truly</p>
+<p>property than the skies that shine upon them.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Harriet Martineau.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p164" id="p164"></a>
+<b>Catskill</b>, 111 miles from New York, was founded in
+1678 by the purchase of several square miles from the
+Indians. The landing is immediately above the mouth
+of the Catskill or Kaaterskill Creek. It is said that the
+creek and mountains derive their name as follows: It is
+known that each tribe had a <i>totemic</i> emblem, or rude
+banner; the Mahicans had the wolf as their emblem, and
+some say that the word Mahican means an enchanted
+wolf. (The Lenni Lenapes, or Delawares, had the turkey
+as their totem.) Catskill was the southern boundary of
+the Mahicans on the west bank, and here they set up
+their emblem. It is said from this fact the stream took
+the name of Kaaters-kill. The large cat or wolf, similar
+in appearance, forms the mark of King Aepgin on his
+deed to Van Rensselaer. Perhaps, however, the mountains
+at one time abounded in these animals, and the
+name may be only a coincidence. The old village, with
+its main street, lies along the valley of the Catskill Creek,
+not quite a mile from the Catskill Landing, and preserves
+some of the features of the days when <i>Knickerbocker</i>
+was accustomed to pay it an annual visit. The
+location seems to have been chosen as a place of security&mdash;out 
+of sight to one voyaging up the river. The northern
+slope now reveals fine residences, all of which command
+extensive views. Just out of the village proper, on a
+beautiful outlook, stands the charming Prospect Park
+Hotel. The drives and pedestrian routes in the vicinity
+of Catskill are well condensed by Walton Van Loan, a
+resident of the village, whose guide to the Catskills is the
+best on this region and will be of great service to all
+who would like to understand thoroughly the mountain
+district.</p>
+
+<a name="page165" id="page165"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;165]</span>
+<p>
+<b>The Northern Catskills.</b>&mdash;The northern and southern
+divisions have been indicated not so much as mountain
+divisions, but in order to better emphasize the two routes,
+which converge from Kingston and Catskill toward each
+other, drawn by two principal points of attraction, the
+Catskill Mountain House and the Hotel Kaaterskill.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Ah! how often when I have been abroad on the mountains </p>
+<p>has my heart risen in grateful praise to God that</p>
+<p>it was not my destiny to waste and pine among those</p>
+<p>noisome congregations of the city.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>John James Audubon.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>The Catskill Mountain House</b> has been widely known
+for almost a century. The original proprietor had the
+choice of location in 1823, when the entire range was a
+vast mountain wilderness, and he made excellent selection
+for its site. It seems as if the rocky balcony was
+especially reared two thousand feet above the valley for
+a grand outlook and restful resort. "What can you
+see," exclaimed Natty Bumppo, one of Cooper's favorite
+characters. "Why, all the world;" and this is the feeling
+to-day of everyone looking down from this point upon
+the Hudson Valley.</p>
+<p>
+The Mountain House Park has a valley frontage of
+over three miles in extent, and consists of 2,780 acres of
+magnificent forest and farming lands, traversed in all
+directions by many miles of carriage roads and paths,
+leading to various noted places of interest. The Crest,
+Newman's Ledge, Bear's Den, Prospect Rock on North
+Mountain, and Eagle Rock and Palenville Overlook on
+South Mountain, from which the grandest views of the
+region are obtained, are contained in the property. It
+also includes within its boundaries North and South Lakes,
+both plentifully stocked with various kind of fish and
+well supplied with boats and canoes. The atmosphere
+is delightful, invigorating and pure; the great elevation
+and surrounding forest render it free from malaria. The
+temperature is fifteen to twenty degrees lower than at
+Catskill Village, New York City or Philadelphia.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Cooper's "Leatherstocking" is the one melodious synopsis</p>
+<p>of man and nature.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Thomas Carlyle.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p165" id="p165"></a>
+The <b><i>Otis Elevating Railway</i></b>, made possible by the enterprise
+of the late Commodore Van Santvoord, extends from
+Otis Junction on the <i>Catskill Mountain Railway</i> to Otis
+Summit, a noble altitude of the Catskill Range. The<a name="page166" id="page166"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;166]</span>
+incline railway, 7,000 feet in length, ascends 1,600 feet
+and attains an elevation of 2,200 feet above the Hudson
+River. "In length, elevation, overcome and carrying
+capacity it exceeds any other incline railway in the world.
+It is operated by powerful stationary engines and huge
+steel wire cables, and the method employed is similar
+to that used by the Otis Elevator Company for elevators
+in buildings. Every safeguard has been provided, so
+that an accident of any kind is practically impossible.
+Should the machinery break, the cables snap or track
+spread, an ingenious automatic device would stop the cars
+at once. A passenger car and baggage car are attached
+to each end of double cables which pass around immense
+drums located at the top of the incline. While one train
+rises the other descends, passing each other midway.
+By this arrangement trains carrying from seventy-five to
+one hundred passengers can be run in each direction
+every fifteen minutes when necessary, the time required
+for a trip being only ten minutes. This is a vast improvement
+over the old way of making the ascent of the
+mountains by stage, as it reduces the time fully one
+and a half hours, besides adding greatly to the pleasure
+of the trip. The ride up the mountains on the incline
+railway is a novel and delightful experience, and is alone
+worth a visit to the Catskills. As the train ascends, the
+magnificent panorama of the valley of the Hudson, extending
+for miles and miles, is gradually unfolded; while
+the river itself, like a ribbon of silver glistening in the
+sun, and the Berkshire Hills in the distance seem to
+rise to the view of the passenger. At the summit of the
+incline passengers for the Laurel House, Haines Corners,
+Ontiora, Sunset, Twilight, Santa Cruz, Elka Park, and
+Tannersville, take the trains of the <i>Kaaterskill Railroad</i>,
+which connect with the <i>Otis Elevating Railway</i>."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The din of toil comes faintly swelling up</p>
+<p>From green fields far below, and all around</p>
+<p>The forest sea sends up its ceaseless roar</p>
+<p>Like the ocean's everlasting chime.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Bayard Taylor.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Two miles from the summit landing are the Kaaterskill
+Falls. The upper fall 175 feet, lower fall 85 feet. The<a name="page167" id="page167"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;167]</span>
+amphitheatre behind the cascade is the scene of one of
+Bryant's finest poems:</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"From greens and shades where the Kaaterskill leaps</p>
+<p>From cliffs where the wood flowers cling;"</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>
+and we recall the lines which express so beautifully the
+well-nigh fatal dream</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+    <p class="i2">"Of that dreaming one</p>
+  <p>By the base of that icy steep,</p>
+    <p class="i2">When over his stiffening limbs begun</p>
+  <p>The deadly slumber of frost to creep."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>
+About half-way up the old mountain carriage road, is
+the place said to be the dreamland of Rip Van Winkle&mdash;the
+greatest character of American mythology, more real
+than the heroes of Homer or the massive gods of Olympus.
+The railway, however, has rather dispensed with Rip
+Van Winkle's resting-place. The old stage drivers had so
+long pointed out the identical spot where he slept that
+they had come to believe in it, but his spirit still haunts
+the entire locality, and we can get along without his "open
+air bed chamber." It will not be necessary to quote from
+a recent guide-book that "no intelligent person probably
+believes that such a character ever really existed or had
+such an experience." The explanation is almost as humorous
+as the legend.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Hotel Kaaterskill</b>, whose name and fame went over
+a continent even before it was fairly completed, is located
+on the summit of the Kaaterskill Mountain, three miles
+by carriage or one by path from the Catskill Mountain
+House. It is the largest mountain hotel at this time in
+the world, accommodating 1,200 guests, and the Catskills
+have reason to feel proud of this distinction. They have
+for many years had the best-known legend&mdash;the wonderful
+and immortal Rip Van Winkle. They have always enjoyed
+the finest valley views of any mountain outlook, and they
+have a right to the best hotels.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>There is a fall in the hills, where the water of two</p>
+<p>little ponds runs over the rocks into the valley. The</p>
+<p>first pitch is nigh two hundred feet and the water looks</p>
+<p>like flakes of driven snow before it touches the bottom.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>James Fenimore Cooper.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page168" id="page168"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;168]</span>
+<p>
+It may seem antiquated and old-fashioned in the midst
+of elevated railroads to speak of mountain driveways,
+but that to Palenville, as we last saw it, was a beautiful
+piece of engineering&mdash;as smooth as a floor and securely
+built. It looks as if it were intended to last for a century,
+the stone work is so thoroughly finished. The views
+from this road are superior to anything we have seen
+in the Catskills, and the great sweep of the mountain clove
+recalls a Sierra Nevada trip on the way to the Yosemite.</p>
+<p>
+The writer will never forget another Catskill drive
+fully twenty years ago. Starting one morning with a
+pair of mustang ponies from Ph&oelig;nicia, we called at the
+Kaaterskill, the Catskill Mountain House, and the Laurel
+House, took supper at Catskill Village, and reached New
+York that evening at eleven o'clock. It is unnecessary
+to say that we were on business&mdash;our book was on the
+press&mdash;and we went as if one of the printers' best-known
+companions was on our trail.</p>
+<p>
+Irving's description of his first voyage up the river
+brings us more delicately and gracefully down from these
+mountains to the Hudson&mdash;the level highway to the sea.
+"Of all the scenery of the Hudson, the Kaatskill Mountains
+had the most witching effect on my boyish imagination.
+Never shall I forget the effect upon me of my
+first view of them, predominating over a wide extent of
+country&mdash;part wild, woody and rugged; part softened
+away into all the graces of cultivation. As we slowly
+floated along, I lay on the deck and watched them through
+a long summer's day, undergoing a thousand mutations
+under the magical effects of atmosphere; sometimes seeming
+to approach; at other times to recede; now almost
+melting into hazy distance, now burnished by the setting
+sun, until in the evening they printed themselves against
+the glowing sky in the deep purple of an Italian
+landscape."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Limned upon the fair horizon,</p>
+    <p class="i2">West from central Hudson's tide,</p>
+  <p>The fair form of Ontiora</p>
+    <p class="i2">Throughout ages shall abide.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Jared Barhete.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" /><br /><br />
+<a name="page169" id="page169"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;169]</span>
+
+
+<h4>Catskill to Hudson.</h4>
+<p>
+Leaving Catskill dock, the Prospect Park Hotel looks
+down upon us from a commanding point on the west bank,
+while north of this can be seen Cole's Grove, where
+Thomas Cole, the artist, lived, who painted the well-known
+series, the Voyage of Life. On the east side is
+Rodger's Island, where it is said the last battle was
+fought between the Mahicans and Mohawks; and it is
+narrated that "as the old king of the Mahicans was
+dying, after the conflict, he commanded his regalia to be
+taken off and his successor put into the kingship while
+his eyes were yet clear to behold him. Over forty years
+had he worn it, from the time he received it in London
+from Queen Anne. He asked him to kneel at his couch,
+and, putting his withered hand across his brow, placed
+the feathery crown upon his head, and gave him the
+silver-mounted tomahawk&mdash;symbols of power to rule and
+power to execute. Then, looking up to the heavens, he
+said, as if in despair for his race, 'The hills are our
+pillows, and the broad plains to the west our hunting-grounds;
+our brothers are called into the bright wigwam
+of the Everlasting, and our bones lie upon the fields of
+many battles; but the wisdom of the dead is given to
+the living.'"</p>
+<p>
+On the east bank of the Hudson, above this historic
+island, is the residence of Frederick E. Church, whose
+glowing canvas has linked the Niagara with the Hudson.
+It commands a wide view of the Berkshire Hills to the
+eastward, and westward to the Catskills. The hill above
+Rodgers' Island, on the east bank, is known as Mount
+Merino, one of the first places to which Merino sheep
+were brought in this country.</p>
+<p><a name="p169" id="p169"></a>
+<b>Hudson</b>, 115 miles from New York, was founded in the
+year 1784, by thirty persons from Providence, R. I., and
+incorporated as a city in 1785. The city is situated on<a name="page170" id="page170"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;170]</span>
+a sloping promontory, bounded by the North and South
+Bays. Its main streets, Warren, Union and Allen, run
+east and west a little more than a mile in length, crossed
+by Front Street, First, Second, Third, etc. Main Street
+reaches from Promenade Park to Prospect Hill. The
+park is on the bluff just above the steamboat landing;
+we believe this city is the only one on the Hudson that
+has a promenade ground overlooking the river. It commands
+a fine view of the Catskill Mountains, Mount
+Merino, and miles of the river scenery. The city has
+always enjoyed the reputation of hospitality. It is the
+western terminus of the Hudson and Chatham division
+of the <i>Boston &amp; Albany Railroad</i>, and also of the <i>Kinderhook
+&amp; Hudson Railway</i>.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>White fleecy clouds move slowly by. </p>
+    <p class="i2">How cool their shadows fall to-day!</p>
+  <p>A moment on the hills they lie</p>
+    <p class="i2">And then like spirits glide away.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+From an old-time English history we read that Hudson
+grew more rapidly than any other town in America
+except Baltimore. Standing at the head of ship navigation
+it would naturally have become a great port had it
+not been for the railway and the steamboat which made
+New York the emporium not only of the Hudson, but also
+of the continent.</p>
+<p>
+Hudson had also a good sprinkling of Nantucket blood,
+and visitors from that quaint old town recognize in portico,
+stoop and window a familiar architecture.</p>
+<p><a name="p170" id="p170"></a>
+<b>Columbia Springs</b>, an old-time resort with pleasant
+grove and white sulphur water, is four miles northeast
+of Hudson. Its medicinal qualities are attested by scores
+of physicians, and by hundreds who have been benefited
+and cured. The drive is pleasant and the return can be
+made through&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p171" id="p171"></a>
+<b>Claverack</b>, three and a half miles east of Hudson, a
+restful old-fashioned village situated at the crossing of the
+Old Post Road and the Columbia turnpike and county
+seat of Columbia in Knickerbocker days. The court house
+on its well-shaded street was for many years the home
+of the late Peter Hoffman. The Dutch Reformed Church,
+built of bricks brought from Holland, wears on its brow<a name="page171" id="page171"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;171]</span>
+wrinkles of antiquity, emphasized by the date 1767
+on its walls. It is said that General Washington encamped
+here, but there is no historical data to confirm
+the tradition. Claverack Falls is well worth a visit, which
+can easily be made in an afternoon stroll. Copake Lake,
+to the southeast, can be reached by a drive of about
+twelve miles, a fine sheet of water ten miles in circumference,
+with a picturesque island connected to the main
+land by a causeway. Forty years ago a romantic ruin
+of a stone mansion still stood on this island, where the
+writer, when a boy, used to wander around the deserted
+rooms looking for ghosts, but the walls were torn down
+July 4, 1866, as the place was frequented every summer
+by a remnant of the old Stockbridge tribe. The neighbors
+thought the best way of getting rid of the "noble red
+men" was to burn up the hive. The mansion was
+built by a Miss Livingston, but she soon exchanged her
+island home for Florence and the classic associations of
+Italy. Bash-Bish, one mile from Copake Station on the
+<i>Harlem Railroad</i>, one of the most romantic glens in our
+country, has been visited and eulogized by Henry Ward
+Beecher, Bayard Taylor and many distinguished writers
+and travelers. Soon after leaving Copake Station a beautiful
+carriage road, but extremely narrow, strikes the
+left bank of this mountain stream, and for a long distance
+follows its rocky channel. On the right a thickly wooded
+hill rises abruptly more than a thousand feet&mdash;a perfect
+wall of foliage from base to summit. A mile brings one
+to the lower falls; the upper falls are about a quarter
+of a mile farther up the gorge. The height of the falls,
+with the rapids between, is about 300 feet above the little
+rustic bridge at the foot of the lower falls. The glen
+between is a place of wild beauty, with rocks and huge
+boulders "in random ruin piled."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I saw the green banks of the castle-crowned Rhine,</p>
+<p>Where the grapes drink the moonlight and change into wine,</p>
+<p>But my heart would still yearn for the sound of the waves</p>
+<p>That sing as they flow by my forefather's graves.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Oliver Wendell Holmes.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Hillsdale Village</b> has a beautiful location and affords
+a good central point for visiting Mount Everett, with its
+wide prospect (altitude 2,624 feet), Copake Lake six miles<a name="page172" id="page172"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;172]</span>
+to the west, Bash-Bish Falls six miles south, and Po-ka-no
+five miles to the northeast, sometimes known as White's
+Hill. The Po-ka-no, Columbia County's noblest outlook,
+1,713 feet, commands the Hudson Valley for eighty miles;
+and the owner says that he saw the fireworks from there
+the night of the Newburgh centennial in 1883. From
+the summit can be seen "Monument Mountain" and the
+Green Mountains of Vermont. At its base glides the
+"Green River Creek," which flows into the Housatonic
+near Great Barrington. From this point the drive can
+be continued to North Egremont, South Egremont, Great
+Barrington and Monument Mountain. Before the days
+of railroads the Columbia turnpike was the great trade
+artery of the city of Hudson. It was interesting to hear
+William Cullen Bryant recount his experiences in driving
+from his home in Great Barrington over the well-known
+highway on his way to New York. The <i>Housatonic</i> and
+<i>Harlem Railroads</i> tapped its life and have left many a
+sleepy village along the route, once astir in staging days.
+The stone for Girard College was drawn from Massachusetts
+quarries over this route and shipped to Philadelphia
+from Hudson. The Lebanon Valley, in the northeastern
+part of the county, is considered one of the most
+beautiful in the State, and said by Sir Henry Vincent,
+the English orator, to resemble the far-famed valley of
+Llangollen, in Wales. The Wy-a-mon-ack Creek flows
+through the valley, joining its waters with the Kinderhook.
+Quechee Lake is near at hand, where Miss Warner
+was born, author of "Queechee" and the "Wide Wide
+World."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Welcome ye pleasant dales and hills,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Where dream-like passed my early days! </p>
+  <p>Ye cliffs and glens and laughing rills</p>
+    <p class="i2">That sing unconscious hymns of praise!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Lindenwald</b>, a solid and substantial residence, home of
+President Martin Van Buren, where he died in 1862, is
+two miles from the pleasant village of Kinderhook. Columbia
+County just missed the proud distinction of rearing
+two presidents, as Samuel J. Tilden was born in the town
+of Lebanon. Elisha Williams, John Van Buren and many
+others have given lustre to her legal annals.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Ever fonder, ever dearer</p>
+    <p class="i2">Seems our youth that hastened by,</p>
+  <p>And we love to live in memory</p>
+    <p class="i2"> our fond hopes fade and die.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page173" id="page173"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;173]</span>
+
+
+<h4>Hudson to Albany.</h4>
+<p><a name="p173-1" id="p173-1"></a>
+<b>Athens.</b>&mdash;Directly opposite Hudson, and connected with
+it by ferry, is the classically named village of Athens.
+An old Mahican settlement known as Potick was located
+a little back from the river. We are now in the midst
+of the great</p>
+<p><a name="p173-2" id="p173-2"></a>
+<b>"Ice Industry,"</b> which reaches from below Staatsburgh
+to Castleton and Albany, well described by John Burroughs
+in his article on the Hudson: "No man sows, yet
+many men reap a harvest from the Hudson. Not the
+least important is the ice harvest, which is eagerly looked
+for, and counted upon by hundreds, yes, thousands of laboring
+men along its course. Ice or no ice sometimes means
+bread or no bread to scores of families, and it means
+added or diminished comforts to many more. It is a crop
+that takes two or three weeks of rugged winter weather
+to grow, and, if the water is very roily or brackish, even
+longer. It is seldom worked till it presents seven or eight
+inches of clear water ice. Men go out from time to
+time and examine it, as the farmer goes out and examines
+his grain or grass, to see when it will do to cut. If
+there comes a deep fall of snow the ice is 'pricked' so
+as to let the water up through and form snow ice. A
+band of fifteen or twenty men, about a yard apart, each
+armed with a chisel-bar, and marching in line, puncture
+the ice at each step, with a single sharp thrust. To
+and fro they go, leaving a belt behind them that presently
+becomes saturated with water. But ice, to be of first
+quality, must grow from beneath, not from above. It is
+a crop quite as uncertain as any other. A good yield
+every two or three years, as they say of wheat out west,
+is about all that can be counted upon. When there is an
+abundant harvest, after the ice houses are filled, they
+stack great quantities of it, as the farmer stacks his
+surplus hay. Such a fruitful winter was that of '74-5,<a name="page174" id="page174"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;174]</span>
+when the ice formed twenty inches thick. The stacks
+are given only a temporary covering of boards, and are
+the first ice removed in the season. The cutting and
+gathering of the ice enlivens these broad, white, desolate
+fields amazingly. My house happens to stand where I
+look down upon the busy scene, as from a hill-top upon
+a river meadow in haying time, only here figures stand
+out much more sharply than they do from a summer
+meadow. There is the broad, straight, blue-black canal
+emerging into view, and running nearly across the river;
+this is the highway that lays open the farm. On either
+side lie the fields, or ice meadows, each marked out by
+cedar or hemlock boughs. The farther one is cut first,
+and when cleared, shows a large, long, black parallelogram
+in the midst of the plain of snow. Then the next one
+is cut, leaving a strip or tongue of ice between the two
+for the horses to move and turn upon. Sometimes nearly
+two hundred men and boys, with numerous horses, are
+at work at once, marking, plowing, planing, scraping,
+sawing, hauling, chiseling; some floating down the pond
+on great square islands towed by a horse, or their fellow
+workmen; others distributed along the canal, bending to
+their ice-hooks; others upon the bridges separating the
+blocks with their chisel bars; others feeding the elevators;
+while knots and straggling lines of idlers here and there
+look on in cold discontent, unable to get a job. The best
+crop of ice is an early crop. Late in the season or after
+January, the ice is apt to get 'sun-struck,' when it
+becomes 'shaky,' like a piece of poor timber. The sun,
+when he sets about destroying the ice, does not simply
+melt it from the surface&mdash;that were a slow process; but
+he sends his shafts into it and separates it into spikes
+and needles&mdash;in short, makes kindling-wood of it, so as
+to consume it the quicker. One of the prettiest sights
+about the ice harvesting is the elevator in operation.
+When all works well, there is an unbroken procession of
+the great crystal blocks slowly ascending this incline.<a name="page175" id="page175"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;175]</span>
+They go up in couples, arm in arm, as it were, like
+friends up a stairway, glowing and changing in the sun,
+and recalling the precious stones that adorned the walls
+of the celestial city. When they reach the platform where
+they leave the elevator, they seem to step off like things
+of life and volition; they are still in pairs and separate
+only as they enter upon the 'runs.' But here they have
+an ordeal to pass through, for they are subjected to a
+rapid inspection and the black sheep are separated from
+the flock; every square with a trace of sediment or earth-stain
+in it, whose texture is not perfect and unclouded
+crystal, is rejected and sent hurling down into the abyss;
+a man with a sharp eye in his head and a sharp ice-hook
+in his hand picks out the impure and fragmentary ones
+as they come along and sends them quickly overboard.
+Those that pass the examination glide into the building
+along the gentle incline, and are switched off here and
+there upon branch runs, and distributed to all parts of
+the immense interior."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>But when in the forest bare and old</p>
+    <p class="i2">The blast of December calls,</p>
+  <p>He builds in the starlight clear and cold</p>
+    <p class="i2">A palace of ice where his torrent falls.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Where the frost trees shoot with leaf and spray</p>
+<p>And frost gems scatter a silver ray.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>How fair the thronging pictures run,</p>
+    <p class="i2">What joy the vision fills&mdash;</p>
+  <p>The star-glow and the setting sun</p>
+    <p class="i2">Amid the northern hills.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Benjamin F. Leggett.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Passing west of the Hudson Flats we see North Bay,
+crossed by the <i>New York Central Railroad</i>. Kinderhook
+Creek meets the river about three miles north of Hudson,
+directly above which is Stockport Station for Columbiaville.
+Four Mile Light-house is now seen on the opposite
+bank. Nutten Hook, or Coxsackie Station, is four miles
+above Stockport. Opposite this point, and connected by
+a ferry, is the village of&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Coxsackie</b> (name derived from Kaak-aki, or place of
+wild geese, "aki" in Indian signifies place and it is singular
+to find the Indian word "Kaak" so near to the
+English "cackle"). Two miles north Stuyvesant Landing
+is seen on the east bank, the nearest station on the
+<i>New York Central &amp; Hudson River Railroad</i>, by carriage,
+to Valatie and Kinderhook. The name Kinderhook is
+said to have had its origin from a point on the Hudson
+prolific in children; as the children were always out of
+doors to see the passing craft, it was known as Kinderhook,<a name="page176" id="page176"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;176]</span>
+or "children's point." Passing Bronk's Island, due
+west of which empties Coxsackie Creek, we see Stuyvesant
+Light-house on our right, and approach New Baltimore,
+a pleasant village on the west bank, with sloop and barge
+industry. About a mile above the landing is the meeting
+point of four counties: Greene and Albany on the
+west, Columbia and Rensselaer on the east. Beeren Island,
+connected with Coeyman's Landing by small steamer,
+now a picnic resort, lies near the west bank, where it
+will be remembered the first white child was born on the
+Hudson. Here was the Castle of Rensselaertein, before
+which <a name="p176" id="p176"></a><b>Antony Van Corlear</b> read again and again the
+proclamation of Peter Stuyvesant, and from which he
+returned with a diplomatic reply, forming one of the
+most humorous chapters in Irving's "Knickerbocker."
+Threading our way through low-lying islands and river
+flats, and "slowing down" occasionally on meeting canal
+boats or other river craft, we pass Coeyman's on our
+left and Lower Schodack Island on our right, due east
+of which is the station of Schodack Landing. The writer
+of this handbook remembers distinctly a winter's evening
+walk from Schodack Landing, crossing the frozen Hudson
+and snow-covered island on an ill-defined trail. He was
+on his way to deliver his first lecture, February, 1868,
+and his subject was "The Legends and Poetry of the
+Hudson." Since that time he has written and re-written
+many guides to the river, so that the present handbook
+is not a thing of yesterday. The next morning, on his
+return to Schodack, he had for his companion a young
+man from twenty or thirty miles inland, who had never
+seen a train of cars except in the distance. On reaching
+the railway, one of the New York expresses swept
+by, and as he caught the motion of the bell cord he
+turned and said: "Do they drive it with that little
+string?" Lower Schodack Island, Mills Plaat (also an
+island) and Upper Schodack Island reach almost to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Castleton</b>, a pleasant village on the eastern bank, with<a name="page177" id="page177"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;177]</span>
+main street lying close to the river. The cliffs, a few
+miles to the north, were known to the Indians as Scoti-ack,
+or place of the ever-burning council-fire, which gave the
+name of Schodack to the township, where King Aepgin,
+on the 8th of April, 1680, sold to Van Rensselaer "all
+that tract of country on the west side of the Hudson,
+extending from Beeren Island up to Smack's Island, and
+in breadth two days' journey."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>No spot in all the world where poetry and romance</p>
+<p>are so closely blended with the heroic in history as</p>
+<p>along the banks of our Hudson.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="map4" id="map4"></a>
+<p class="center"><b>Map of Hudson River from Cocksackie to Laningsburgh.</b><br /><br />
+<a href="images/map1ab-1000.png"><img src="images/map1ab-167.png" width="167" height="600" alt="Map of Hudson River from Cocksackie to Laningsburgh." border="0" /></a>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="p177" id="p177"></a>
+<p>
+<b><span class="sc">The Mahican Tribe</span></b> originally occupied all the east
+bank of the Hudson north of Roeliffe Jansen's Kill, near
+Germantown, to the head waters of the Hudson; and on
+the west bank, from Cohoes to Catskill. The town of
+Schodack was central, and a signal displayed from the
+hills near Castleton could be seen for thirty miles in
+every direction. After the Mahicans left the Hudson,
+they went to Westenhook, or Housatonic, to the hills
+south of Stockbridge; and then, on invitation of the
+Oneidas, removed to Oneida County, in 1785, where they
+lived until 1821, when, with other Indians of New York,
+they purchased a tract of land near Fox River, Minnesota.</p>
+<p>
+Domestic clans or families of the Mahicans lingered
+around their ancient seats for some years after the close
+of the Revolution, but of them, one after another, it is
+written, "They disappeared in the night." In the language
+of Tamerund at the death of Uncas, "The pale-faces
+are masters of the earth, and the time of the red
+men has not yet come again. My day has been too long.
+In the morning I saw the sons of Unami happy and
+strong; and yet before the night has come, have I lived
+to see the last warrior of the race of the Mahicans."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Autumn had given uniformity of coloring to the woods.</p>
+<p>It varied now between copper and gold, and shone like</p>
+<p>an infinitely rich golden embroidery on the Indian veil</p>
+<p>of mist which rested upon the heights along the Hudson.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Harriet Martineau.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+According to Ruttenber, the names and location of the
+Indian tribes were not ascertained with clearness by the
+early Dutch settlers, but through documents, treaties
+and information, subsequently obtained, it is now settled
+that the Mahicans held possession "under sub-tribal
+organizations" of the east bank of the river from an
+undefined point north of Albany to the sea, including Long<a name="page178" id="page178"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;178]</span>
+Island; that their dominion extended east to the Connecticut,
+where they joined kindred tribes; that on the
+west bank of the Hudson they ran down as far as
+Catskill, and west to Schenectady; that they were met
+on the west by the territory of the Mohawks, and on
+the south by tribes of the Lenni Lenapes or Delawares,
+whose territory extended thence to the sea, and west to
+and beyond the Delaware River. The Mahicans had a
+castle at Catskill and at Cohoes Falls. The western
+side of the Hudson, above Cohoes, belonged to the Mohawks,
+a branch of the Iroquois. Therefore, as early as
+1630, three great nations were represented on the Hudson&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p178" id="p178"></a>
+<b>The Mahicans, the Delawares and the Iroquois.</b> The
+early French missionaries refer to the "nine nations of
+Manhinyans, gathered between Manhattan and the environs
+of Quebec." These several nations have never
+been accurately designated, although certain general
+divisions appear under the titles of Mohegan, Wappinger,
+Sequins, etc. "The government of the Mahicans was a
+democracy. The office was hereditary by the lineage of
+the wife; that is, the selection of a successor on the
+death of the chief, was confined to the female branch
+of the family." According to Ruttenber, the precise
+relation between the Mahicans of the Hudson and the
+Mohegans under Uncas, the Pequot chief, is not known.
+In a foot-note to this statement, he says: "The identity
+of name between the Mahicans and Mohegans, induces
+the belief that all these tribes belonged to the same stock,&mdash;although 
+they differed in dialect, in territory, and in
+their alliances." The two words, therefore, must not be
+confounded.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Round about the Indian village</p>
+<p>Spread the meadows and the cornfields,</p>
+<p>Stood the groves of singing pine trees,</p>
+<p>And beyond them stood the forest,</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Henry W. Longfellow.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+It is also pleasant to remember that the Mahicans as
+a tribe were true and faithful to us during the war of
+the Revolution, and when the six nations met in council
+at Oswego, at the request of Guy Johnson and other
+officers of the British army, "to eat the flesh and drink<a name="page179" id="page179"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;179]</span>
+the blood of a Bostonian," Hendrick, the Mahican, made
+the pledge for his tribe at Albany, almost in the eloquent
+words of Ruth to Naomi, "Thy people shall be our people,
+and whither thou goest we will be at your side."</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Mourdener's Kill</b>, with its sad story of a girl tied
+by Indians to a horse and dragged through the valley,
+flows into the Hudson above Castleton. Two miles above
+this near the steamer channel will be seen Staats Island on
+the east, with an old stone house, said to be next in antiquity
+to the old Van Rensselaer House, opposite Albany.
+It is also a fact that this property passed directly to the
+ancestors of the present family, the only property in this
+vicinity never owned by the lord of the manor. Opposite
+the old stone house, the point on the west bank is known
+as Parda Hook, where it is said a horse was once
+drowned in a horse-race on the ice, and hence the name
+Parda, for the old Hollanders along the Hudson seemed
+to have had a musical ear, and delighted in accumulating
+syllables. (The word pard is used in Spenser for spotted
+horse, and still survives in the word leopard.)</p>
+<p>
+The Castleton Bar or "overslaugh," as it was known
+by the river pilots, impeded for years navigation in low
+water. Commodore Van Santvoord and other prominent
+citizens brought the subject before the State legislature,
+and work was commenced in 1863. In 1868 the United
+States Government very properly (as their jurisdiction
+extends over tide-water), assumed the completing of the
+dykes, which now stretch for miles along the banks and
+islands of the upper Hudson. Here and there along our
+route between Coxsackie and Albany will be seen great
+dredges deepening and widening the river channel. The
+plan provides for a system of longitudinal dykes to
+confine the current sufficiently to allow the ebb and
+flow of the tidal-current to keep the channel clear. These
+dykes are to be gradually brought nearer together from
+New Baltimore toward Troy, so as to assist the entrance
+of the flood-current and increase its height.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Where Hudson winds his silver way</p>
+  <p>And murmurs at the tardy stay,</p>
+      <p class="i4">Impatient at delay.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Crow.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page180" id="page180"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;180]</span>
+<p>
+The engineers report that the greater part of the
+material carried in suspension in the Hudson river above
+Albany is believed to come from the Mohawk river, and
+its tributary the Schoharie river, while the sands and
+gravel that form the heavy and obstinate bars near
+Albany and chiefly between Albany and Troy, come from
+the upper Hudson.</p>
+<p>
+The discharge of the Hudson between Troy and Albany
+at its lowest stage may be taken at about 3,000 cubic
+feet per second. The river supply, therefore, during that
+stage is inadequate in the upper part of the river for
+navigation, independent of tidal flow.</p>
+<p>
+The greatest number of bars is between Albany and
+Troy, where the channel is narrow, and at least six
+obstructing bars, composed of fine and coarse gravel and
+coarse and fine sand, are in existence. In many places
+between Albany and Troy the navigable depth is reduced
+to 7&frac12; feet by the presence of these bars.</p>
+<p>
+From Albany to New Baltimore the depths are variable,
+the prevailing depth being 10 feet and over, with pools
+of greater depth separated by long cross-over bars, over
+which the greatest depth does not exceed 9 or 10 feet.
+Passing many delightful homes on the west bank and
+the mouth of the Norman's Kill (Indian name Ta-wa-sentha,
+place of many dead) and the Convent of the
+Sacred Heart, we see Dow's Point on the east and above
+this the&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p180" id="p180"></a>
+<b>Van Rensselaer Place</b>, with its port holes on either side
+of the door facing the river, showing that it was built
+in troublesome times. It is the oldest of the Patroon
+manor houses, built in 1640 or thereabouts. It has been
+said that the adaptation of the old tune now known as
+"Yankee Doodle" was made near the well in the grounds
+of the Van Rensselaer Place by Dr. Richard Shuckberg,
+who was connected with the British army when the
+Colonial troops from New England marched into camp
+at Albany to join the British regulars on their way to<a name="page181" id="page181"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;181]</span>
+fight the French. The tune was known in New England
+before the Revolution as "Lydia Fisher's Jig," a name
+derived from a famous lady who lived in the reign of
+Charles II, and which has been perpetuated in the following
+rhyme:</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Lucy Locket lost her pocket,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Lydia Fisher found it;</p>
+  <p>Not a bit of money in it,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Only binding 'round it.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>
+The appearance of the troops called down the derision
+of the British officers, the hit of the doctor became known
+throughout the army, and the song was used as a method
+of showing contempt for the Colonials until after Lexington
+and Concord.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+                  <p class="i16">When life is old</p>
+  <p>And many a scene forgot the heart will hold</p>
+  <p>Its memory of this.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Rensselaer</b>, on the east bank of the river, was incorporated
+in 1896 by the union of Greenbush and East
+Albany. The old name of Greenbush, which still survives
+in East Greenbush, four miles distant, was given to it
+by the old Dutch settlers, and it was probably a "green-bushed"
+place in early days. Now pleasant residences
+and villas look out upon the river from the near bank
+and distant hillsides. Two railroad bridges and a carriage
+bridge cross the Hudson at this point. During the
+French war in 1775, Greenbush was a military rendezvous,
+and in 1812 the United States Government established
+extensive barracks, whence troops were forwarded to
+Canada.</p>
+<p><a name="p181" id="p181"></a>
+<b>Albany</b>, 144 miles from New York. (<i>New York Central
+&amp; Hudson River Railroad</i>, <i>Boston &amp; Albany</i>, <i>West Shore</i>,
+<i>Delaware and Hudson</i>, the <i>Hudson River Day Line</i>
+and <i>People's Line</i>.) Its site was called by the Indians
+Shaunaugh-ta-da (Schenectady), or the Pine Plains. It
+was next known by the early Dutch settlers as "Beverwyck,"
+"William Stadt," and "New Orange." The seat
+of the State Government was transferred from New York
+to Albany in 1798. In 1714, when 100 years old, it had<a name="page182" id="page182"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;182]</span>
+a population of about 3,000, one-sixth of whom were slaves.
+In 1786 it increased to about 10,000. In 1676, the city comprised
+within the limits of Pearl, Beaver and Steuben
+streets, was surrounded by wooden walls with six gates.
+They were 13 feet high, made of timber a foot square.
+It is said that a portion of these walls were remaining
+in 1812. The first railroad in the State and the second
+in the United States was opened from Albany to Schenectady
+in 1831. The pictures of these old coaches are
+very amusing, and the rate of speed was only a slight
+improvement on a well-organized stage line. From an
+old book in the State Library we condense the following
+description, presenting quite a contrast to the city of
+to-day: "Albany lay stretched along the banks of the
+Hudson, on one very wide and long street, parallel to
+the Hudson. The space between the street and the river
+bank was occupied by gardens. A small but steep hill
+rose above the centre of the town, on which stood a
+fort. The wide street leading to the fort (now State
+street) had a Market-Place, Guard-House, Town Hall,
+and an English and Dutch Church, in the centre."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>I wandered afar from the land of my birth,</p>
+<p>I saw the old rivers renowned upon earth,</p>
+<p>But fancy still painted that wide-flowing stream</p>
+<p>With the many-hued pencil of infancy's dream.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Oliver Wendell Holmes.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Tourists and others will be amply repaid in visiting the
+new Capitol building, at the head of State Street. It is
+open from nine in the morning until six in the evening.
+It is said to be larger than the Capitol at Washington,
+and cost more than any other structure on the American
+continent. The staircases, the wide corridors, the Senate
+chamber, the Assembly chamber, and the Court of Appeals
+room, attest the wealth and greatness of the Empire
+State. The visitor up State Street will note the beautiful
+and commanding spire of "St. Paul." The Cathedral is
+also a grand structure. The population of Albany is
+now 100,000, and its growth is due to three causes: First,
+the Capitol was removed from New York to Albany in
+1798. Then followed two great enterprises, ridiculed at
+the time by every one as the <i>Fulton Folly and Clinton's
+Ditch</i>&mdash;in other words, steam navigation, 1807, and the<a name="page183" id="page183"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;183]</span>
+Erie Canal, 1825. Its name was given in honor of the
+Duke of Albany, although it is still claimed by some of
+the oldest inhabitants that, in the golden age of those
+far-off times, when the good old burghers used to ask
+the welfare of their neighbors, the answer was "All
+bonnie," and hence the name of the hill-crowned city.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Canals, long winding, ope a watery flight,</p>
+<p>And distant streams and seas and lakes unite;</p>
+<p>From fair Albania toward the fading sun,</p>
+<p>Back through the midland lengthening channels run.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Joel Barlow.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+To condense from H. P. Phelps's careful handbook of
+"Albany and the Capitol:" in 1614 a stockaded trading-house
+was erected on an island below the city, well defended
+for trading with the Indians. In 1617 another was
+built on the hill, near Norman's Kill. The West Indian
+Company erected a fort in 1623 near the present landing
+of the Day Line. In 1664 the province fell into the hands
+of the English and the name was changed to Albany. In
+1686 it was incorporated into a city. It was the meeting
+place of the Constitutional Congress 1754, the proposed
+Constitution of which, however, was never ratified. Washington
+visited it in 1783. The Erie Canal was opened
+in 1825, a railroad to Schenectady in 1832, the <i>Hudson
+River</i> in 1851, a consolidated road to Buffalo in 1853,
+and the <i>Susquehanna Railroad</i> to Binghamton in 1869.
+State Street at one time was said to be the widest city
+thoroughfare in the country, after Pennsylvania Avenue
+in Washington. The English and Dutch Churches and
+other public buildings, once in the midst of it, but long
+since removed, account for its extra width. The State
+Capitol has a commanding site. The old Capitol building
+was completed in 1808. The corner-stone of the present
+building was laid June 24, 1871, and it has been occupied
+since January 7, 1879. According to Phelps, "the size
+of the structure impresses the beholder at once. It is
+300 feet north and south by 400 feet east and west, and
+with the porticoes will cover three acres and seven square
+feet. The walls are 108 feet high from the water-table,
+and all this worked out of solid granite brought, most
+of it, from Hallowell, Me.</p>
+<p>
+The impression produced varies with various persons.<a name="page184" id="page184"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;184]</span>
+One accomplished writer finds it "not unlike that made
+by the photographs of those gigantic structures in the
+northern and eastern parts of India, which are seen in
+full series on the walls of the South Kensington, and by
+their barbaric profusion of ornamentation and true magnificence
+of design give the stay-at-home Briton some faint
+inkling of the empire which has invested his queen with
+another and more high-sounding title. Yet when close
+at hand the building does not bear out this connection
+with Indian architecture of the grand style; it might
+be mere chance that at a distance there is a similarity;
+or it may be that the smallness of size in the decorations
+as compared to the structure itself explains fully why
+there is a tendency to confuse the eye by the number
+of projections, arches, pillars, shallow recesses, and what-not,
+which variegate the different facades. The confusion
+is not entirely displeasing; it gives a sense of unstinted
+riches, and represents the spirit that has reared the pile."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Nor let the dear love of its children grow cold</p>
+<p>Till the channel is dry where its waters have rolled.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Oliver Wendell Holmes.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The Governor's room, the golden corridor, the Senate
+staircase, the Senate chamber, the Assembly chamber, and
+the Court of Appeals room are interesting alike for their
+architectural stone work, decorations and general finish.
+The State Library, dating from 1818, contains about
+150,000 volumes. The Clinton papers, including Andre's
+documents captured at Tarrytown, are the most interesting
+of many valuable manuscripts. Here also are a
+sword and pistol once belonging to General Washington.
+The Museum of Military Records and Relics contains
+over 800 battle flags of State regiments, with several
+ensigns captured from the enemy. Near the Capitol are
+the State Hall and City Hall, and on the right, descending
+State Street, the Geological Hall, well worthy an
+extended visit. The present St. Peter's Episcopal Church,
+third upon the site, is of Schenectady blue stone with
+brown trimmings. Its tower contains "a chime of eleven
+bells and another bell marked 1751, which is used only
+to ring in the new year." Washington Park, consisting<a name="page185" id="page185"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;185]</span>
+of eighty acres and procured at a cost of one million
+dollars, reached by a pleasant drive or by electric railway, 
+is a delightful resort. It is noted for its grand
+trees, artistic walks and floral culture. Several fine
+statues are also worthy of mention, notably that of Robert
+Burns (Charles Calverley, sculptor), erected by money
+left for this purpose by Mrs. McPherson, under the careful
+and tasteful supervision of one of Albany's best-known
+citizens, Mr. Peter Kinnear. A view from Washington
+Park takes in the Catskills and the Helderberg Mountains.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>No wonder that his countrymen today, led by the</p>
+<p>Congress of this great Republic, celebrate the transaction</p>
+<p>and the scene where Washington refused to accept</p>
+<p>a crown.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William M. Evarts.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+And now, while waiting to "throw out the plank,"
+which puts a period to our Hudson River division, we
+feel like congratulating ourselves that the various goblins
+which once infested the river have become civilized, that
+the winds and tides have been conquered, and that the
+nine-day voyage of Hendrick Hudson and the "Half
+Moon" has been reduced to the <i>nine-hour system</i> of the
+Hudson River Day Line.</p>
+<p>
+Those who have traveled over Europe will certainly
+appreciate the quiet luxury of an American steamer; and
+this first introduction to American scenery will always
+charm the tourist from other lands. No single day's
+journey in any land or on any stream can present such
+variety, interest, and beauty, as the trip of one hundred
+and forty-four miles from New York to Albany. The
+Hudson is indeed a goodly volume, with its broad covers
+of green <i>lying open</i> on either side; and it might in truth
+be called a <i>condensed</i> history, for there is no other place
+in our country where poetry and romance are so strangely
+blended with the heroic and the historic,&mdash;no river where
+the waves of different civilizations have left so many
+waifs upon the banks. It is classic ground, from the
+"wilderness to the sea," and will always be the poets'
+corner of our country: the home of Irving, Willis, and
+Morris,&mdash;of Fulton, Morse, and Field,&mdash;of Cole, Audubon,
+and Church,&mdash;and of scores besides, whose names are
+household words.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The Hudson's cable-tow of yore</p>
+    <p class="i2">Bound gallant sire and sturdy son</p>
+  <p>With hearty grasp from shore to shore</p>
+    <p class="i2"> Robert Burns and Washington.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" /><br /><br /><br />
+<a name="page186" id="page186"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;186]</span>
+
+
+<h2>THE UPPER HUDSON.</h2><br /><br />
+
+
+<h4>Albany to Saratoga.</h4>
+
+<h4><i>Delaware and Hudson Railway.</i></h4>
+<p>
+A pleasant tour awaits the traveler who continues his
+journey north from Albany, where the <i>Delaware and
+Hudson</i> train for Saratoga is ready at the landing on
+the arrival of the steamer. A half hour's run along the
+west bank gives us a glimpse of Troy across the river
+with the classical named hills Mount Ida and Mount
+Olympus. Two streams, the Poestenkill and the Wynant's
+Kill, approach the river on the east bank through narrow
+ravines, and furnish excellent water power. In the year
+1786 it was called Ferryhook. In 1787, Rensselaerwyck.
+In the fall of 1787 the settlers began to use the name of
+Vanderheyden, after the family who owned a great part
+of the ground where the city now stands. January 9,
+1789 the freeholders of the town met and gave it the
+name of Troy. The "Hudson," the "Erie," and the
+"Champlain" Canals have contributed to its growth. The
+city, with many busy towns, which have sprung up around
+it&mdash;Cohoes, Lansingburg, Waterford, etc., is central to a
+population of at least 100,000 people. The Rensselaer
+Polytechnic Institute, the oldest engineering school in
+America, has a national reputation.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Cohoes</b>, where the Mohawk joins the Hudson, has one
+of the finest water powers in the country. Its name is
+of Indian origin and signifies "the island at the falls."
+This was the division line between the Mahicans and the
+Mohawks, and when the water is in full force it suggests
+in graceful curve and sweep a miniature Niagara. The<a name="page187" id="page187"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;187]</span>
+view from the double-truss iron bridge (960 feet in
+length), looking up or down the Mohawk, is impressive.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Oh, be my falls as bright as thine!</p>
+<p>May heaven's relenting rainbow shine</p>
+<p>Upon the mist that circles me,</p>
+<p>As soft as now it hangs o'er thee!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Thomas Moore.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Passing through Waterford, and Mechanicville which
+lies partly in the township of Stillwater, with its historic
+records of Bemis Heights and burial place of Ellsworth,
+the first martyr of the Civil war, we come to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Round Lake</b>, nineteen miles north of Troy, and thirteen
+south of Saratoga, near a beautiful sheet of water,
+three miles in circumference, called by the Indians Ta-nen-da-ho-wa,
+which interpreted, signifies Round Lake.
+The camp-meeting and assembly grounds consist of 200
+acres. The air is pure and invigorating and the grove
+and cottages inviting. The drives in the vicinity are
+delightful to Saratoga Lake, to the Hudson River, to
+the historic battlefields of Bemis Heights and Stillwater.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Ballston Spa</b>, thirty-one miles from Albany, is the
+county seat of Saratoga. Here are several well-known
+mineral springs, with chemical properties similar to the
+springs of Saratoga. Over ninety years ago Benjamin
+Douglas, father of Hon. Stephen A. Douglas, built a log
+house, near the "Old Spring," for the accommodation of
+invalids and travelers, and at one time it looked as if
+Saratoga would have a vigorous rival at her very doors;
+but its hotel glory has departed and the old "Sans Souci"
+of the days of Washington Irving is a thing of the past.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>A gallant army formed their last array</p>
+  <p>Upon that field, in silence and deep gloom,</p>
+        <p class="i6">And at their conqueror's feet,</p>
+        <p class="i6">Laid their war-weapons down.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p187" id="p187"></a>
+<b>Saratoga</b>, thirty-eight miles north of Albany, one hundred
+and eighty-two miles from New York, is the greatest
+watering place of the continent. Its development has
+been wonderful, and puts, as it were, in large italics,
+the prosperity of our country. The first white man to
+visit the place was Sir William Johnson, who, in 1767,
+was conveyed there by his Mohawk friends, in the hope
+that the waters might afford relief from the serious
+effects of a gunshot wound in the thigh, received eight
+years before in the battle of Lake George, at which time
+his army defeated the French legions under Baron
+Dieskau. It was not until the year 1773, six years after<a name="page188" id="page188"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;188]</span>
+Sir William Johnson's initial visit, that the first clearing
+was made and the first cabin erected by Derick Scowten.
+Owing, however, to misunderstandings with his red neighbors, 
+he shortly afterwards left. A year later, George
+Arnold, from Rhode Island, took possession of the vacated
+Scowten House, and conducted it with some degree of
+success for about two years. Arnold was in turn followed
+by Samuel Norton, who failed to make the venture successful,
+owing to the outbreak of the Revolution. Norton
+was succeeded in 1783 by his son, who sold out in 1787
+to Gideon Morgan, who, in the same year, made the
+property over to Alexander Bryan. Bryan became the
+first permanent settler after the close of the war. The
+prosperity of the village began in 1789, with the advent
+of Gideon Putnam, but the wooden inns and hotels of
+1830, which seemed palatial in those days, would get
+lost even in one of the parlors of the mammoth hotels
+which now line the main street of the village. Chief
+among these hotels, we mention the&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>"United States,"</b> a grand and princely building of
+noble frontage with a bright and spacious interior court,
+completed in June, 1874. It constitutes one continuous
+line of buildings, six stories high, over fifteen hundred
+feet in length, containing nine hundred and seventeen
+rooms for guests, and is the largest hotel in the world.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The American-Adelphi</b> near at hand, also fronting
+Broadway, always cheery and delightful under the management
+of its popular owner and proprietor, Mr. George
+A. Farnham, has one of the finest locations in Saratoga,
+combining comfort, good attention, a fine table, and
+every convenience of a first-class house. One thing is
+sure, those who go to the "American" return again and
+again.</p>
+<p>
+<b>The Speedway, the Race Track, and Driveways.</b>&mdash;Saratoga
+can justly feel proud of her material growth
+and progress in many directions during the last decade,
+and prominent among her varied attractions are the<a name="page189" id="page189"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;189]</span>
+Speedway and Race Track. Mr. W. C. Whitney and many
+other prominent men have contributed liberally in this
+direction. <i>The Electric Line</i> to Saratoga Lake is also
+one of the features of the village, and furnishes a delightful 
+forenoon or afternoon's outing.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>And boyhood's love and fireside-listened tales</p>
+  <p>Are rushing on your memories, as ye breathe</p>
+        <p class="i6">That valley's storied name,&mdash;</p>
+        <p class="i6">Field of the Grounded Arms.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>The Springs.</b>&mdash;The most prominent springs in and
+about Saratoga are the Hathorn, the Patterson and the
+Congress. The popularity of the Hathorn is attested by
+the universal sale of its bottled waters throughout the
+United States. The Patterson has won a wide reputation
+which its excellence deserves.</p>
+<p><a name="p189" id="p189"></a>
+<b>Historic Saratoga.</b>&mdash;But in the midst of this throbbing,
+gay and delightful Saratoga, we must not forget that
+it was here the fathers of the Republic achieved their
+most decisive victory. The battle was fought in the town
+of Stillwater, at Bemis Heights, two and a half miles
+from the Hudson. The defeat of St. Leger and the
+triumph of Stark at Bennington filled the American army
+with hope. Burgoyne's army advanced September 19,
+1777. The battle was sharply contested. At night the
+Americans retired into their camp, and the British held
+the field. From September 20th to October 7th the
+armies looked each other in the face, each side satisfied
+from the first day's struggle that their opponents were
+worthy foemen. The Americans had retaken Ticonderoga
+and Lake George. Burgoyne had no place to retreat, and
+the lines were slowly but surely closing in around him.
+October 7th Burgoyne commenced the battle, but in half
+an hour his line was broken. He attempted to rally his
+troops in person, but they could not stand before the
+impetuous charge of the Americans. He was compelled
+to order a full retreat, and fell back on the heights above
+Schuylerville. The Americans surrounded him, and he
+surrendered. It was a decisive victory, and cheered the
+friends of freedom, not only in America, but in the English
+House of Commons.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The leaves were red with crimson</p>
+    <p class="i2">And then brave Gates did cry,</p>
+  <p>'Tis diamond now cut diamond,</p>
+    <p class="i2">We'll beat them boys or die.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Ballads of the Revolution.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p190" id="p190"></a>
+<b>Mount McGregor</b>, where General Grant died, associates<a name="page190" id="page190"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;190]</span>
+the Saratoga of the Revolution with the story of our
+Civil War. Near the monument to the old heroes at
+Schuylerville, where Burgoyne surrendered, a monument
+to the Boys in Blue was dedicated in 1904. It was the
+privilege of the writer to be the poet of the occasion,
+and in his lines "The Flag They Bore," to bind the noble
+memorials of those who made and those who saved the
+Republic.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Two monuments in triumph stand</p>
+    <p class="i2">To catch with joy the morning sun,</p>
+  <p>One chorus joins them hand in hand&mdash;</p>
+    <p class="i2">Heroes of Grant and Washington.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>And wider yet the chorus leaps!</p>
+    <p class="i2">Two famous hills the song unites,</p>
+  <p>As Mount MacGregor's anthem sweeps</p>
+    <p class="i2">Across the plains to Bemis Heights.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>
+In Nathaniel Bartlett Sylvester's book, entitled "Historical
+Sketches of Northern New York and the Adirondack
+Wilderness," we learn that the earliest date in which
+the word Saratoga appears in history is 1684, and was
+then the name of an old hunting ground on both sides
+of the Hudson. Its interpretations have been various.
+Some say "The Hillside Country of the Great River;"
+others, the place of swift waters, while Morgan, in his
+"League of the Iroquois," says the signification of Saratoga
+is lost.</p>
+<p>
+Whatever the origin of the name whether from the
+old High Rock spring or a "reach of the river," one thing
+is sure: Saratoga is the most attractive point in the
+country as a gathering place for conventions and large
+meetings, and, in response to the growing demand for
+adequate facilities, a splendid convention hall, with a
+seating capacity for five thousand people, has been
+erected by the town authorities. It is a striking architectural
+addition to Saratoga's attractions.</p>
+<p>
+In 1907 over fifty thousand "Knights" gathered here
+and were hospitably entertained.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>And such were Saratoga's victors&mdash;such</p>
+  <p>The yeoman-brave, whose deeds and death have given</p>
+              <p class="i12">A glory to her skies,</p>
+              <p class="i12">A music to her name.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page191" id="page191"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;191]</span>
+
+
+<h4>Saratoga to the Adirondacks.</h4>
+<p>
+The <i>Adirondack Railway</i> division of the <i>Delaware and 
+Hudson</i> furnishes one of the pleasantest excursions to
+the north woods. The traveler passes along the romantic
+and picturesque valley of the upper Hudson&mdash;through
+King's, South Corinth, Jessup's Landing to Hadley (the
+railroad station for Luzerne, a charming village at the
+junction of the Hudson and the Sacandaga); then through
+Stony Creek, Thurman, thirty-six miles from Saratoga
+Springs, at the junction of the Schroon and the Hudson;
+the Glen, forty-four miles; Riverside, fifty miles (for
+Schroon Lake), pleasurable throughout, to North Creek,
+where "Concord coaches" and patent-covered spring buck-boards
+are in waiting for Blue Mountain Lake&mdash;distance
+about thirty miles, through a beautiful romantic country.</p>
+<p>
+The water route from this point is as follows: Through
+Blue Mountain Lake and Utowana to the outlet, a distance
+of seven miles, where a "Railway Carry," something
+less than a mile, brings the traveler to a fairy-like
+steamer on Marion River. The river trip is twelve miles
+to Forked Lake.</p>
+<p>
+Arriving at "Forked Lake Carry," one-half mile brings
+us to Forked Lake, where the traveler gets his first real
+mountain bill of fare. From this point we took a guide
+to Long Lake. There is a short cut from this point over
+to the Tupper Lakes, which we can commend in every
+particular, and the tourist can either return to Long
+Lake and continue his route to the Saranacs, or go to the
+Saranacs direct from Lake Tupper.</p>
+<p>
+From this point we visit Keene Flats, a charming and
+healthful spot, only five miles from the "Lower Ausable
+Pond." These ponds, the "Lower" and "Upper," are
+unrivaled in beauty and grandeur. They lie at the foot
+of Mount Marcy, Haystack, the Gothics, and Mount
+Bartlett.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>'Twas in the mellow autumn time</p>
+<p>When I, an idler from the town,</p>
+<p>With gun and rod was lured to climb</p>
+<p>Those peaks where fresh the Hudson takes</p>
+<p>His tribute from an hundred lakes.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page192" id="page192"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;192]</span>
+
+
+<h4>Saratoga to Lake George.</h4>
+<p>
+The traveler will find trains and excursions to suit
+his convenience from Saratoga to our fairest lake. His
+route takes him through Gansevoort and Fort Edward
+to Glens Falls with the narrowing and bright-flowing
+Hudson for a companion. About one mile beyond Fort
+Edward Station, near the railway on the right, stood,
+until recently, the tree where Jane McCrea was murdered
+by Indians during the Revolution. From Glens Falls
+the tourist proceeds over the well-conducted Lake George
+division of the <i>Delaware and Hudson</i>, and soon finds himself
+in the midst of a historic and romantic region. About
+half way to the lake stands a monument to Col. Ephraim
+Williams, killed at the battle of Lake George in 1755,
+erected by the graduates of Williams College, which he
+founded. Bloody Pond, a little farther on, sleeps calm
+and blue in the sunlight in spite of its tragic name and
+associations, and soon Lake George, girt-round by mountains,
+greets our vision, stretching away in beauty to the
+north.</p>
+<p>
+Near the railway station on the ninth of September,
+1903, a monument was unveiled commemorating the battle
+of Lake George one hundred and forty-eight years before.
+The monument embodies the heroic figures of Sir
+William Johnson and King Hendrick the Indian chief.
+It represents the Indian chief demonstrating to General
+Johnson the futility of dividing his forces. Governor
+Odell of New York, Governor Guild of Massachusetts,
+Governor Chamberlain of Connecticut, and Governor McCulloch
+of Vermont and others delivered appropriate
+addresses.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+<b>The Trossachs of America.</b>&mdash;Capt. Wm. R. Lord, author
+of "Reminiscences of a Sailor," in a recent article contributed
+to a Scottish paper, has happily called Lake
+George and its surroundings "The Trossachs of America."<a name="page193" id="page193"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;193]</span>
+In writing of the autumn season he says: "Its similarity
+to the Trossachs of Scotland impresses one most vividly
+as seen at this season; the mountains are clothed in
+a garb, the prevailing color of which is purple, reminding
+me of a previous visit through the Scottish Highlands
+when the heather was in full bloom. I at that time
+felt it to be impossible that any other place on the face
+of the globe could equal the magnificently imposing
+grandeur of the 'Trossachs.' I must, however, freely admit
+that in its power of changing beauty this region of
+America fully equals, if it does not surpass it. Deeds
+of 'derring-do,' enacted in these mountain fastnesses in
+days gone by, still add to make the comparison more
+close. Our path at times seemed to be literally strewn
+with roses, for the different colored leaves that carpeted
+our way conveyed that thought. The depth and variegated
+beauty of coloring that marks this season of decaying
+foliage, would enrapture the heart of an artist. In my
+vocation I have had occasion to visit the four quarters
+of the globe, but never have I seen tints so strikingly
+beautiful."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The early fragments of our Colonial poetry and Revolutionary </p>
+<p>ballads are chanted in the midst of such profound </p>
+<p>silence and loneliness that they sound spectrally</p>
+<p>to our ears.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Bayard Taylor.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<b>Lake George</b>, called by the French "Lac St. Sacrament,"
+was discovered by Father Jacques, who passed
+through it in 1646, on his way to the Iroquois, by whom
+he was afterward tortured and burned. It is thirty-six
+miles long by three miles broad. Its elevation is two
+hundred and forty-three feet above the sea. The waters
+are of remarkable transparency; romantic islands dot its
+surface, and elegant villas line its shores. Fort William
+Henry and Ticonderoga, situated at either end of the lake,
+were the salients respectively of the two most powerful
+nations upon the globe. France and England sent great
+armies, which crossed each other's track upon the ocean,
+the one entering the St. Lawrence, the other the harbor
+of New York. Their respective colonies sent their thousands
+to swell the number of trained troops, while tribes
+of red men from the south and the north were marshalled<a name="page194" id="page194"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;194]</span>
+by civilized genius to meet in hostile array upon these
+waters, around the walls of the forts, and at the base
+of the hills. In 1755, General Johnston reached Lake
+St. Sacrament, to which he gave the name of Lake George,
+"not only in honor of his Majesty, but to assert his
+undoubted dominion here."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The progress of that October month had been like</p>
+<p>the stately march of an Orient army, with all the</p>
+<p>splendor of blazing banners. It looked as though the</p>
+<p>glories of the sunset had been distilled into it decked</p>
+<p>with the glowing hues of crimson, scarlet and gold.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>John Henry Brandow.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+The village of Lake George is situated at the head of
+the lake. It contains two churches, a court house, and
+a number of pretty residences. Just behind the court
+house is the bay where Montcalm landed his cannon, and
+where his entrenchments began. It ran across the street
+to the rising ground beyond the Episcopal church.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Fort William Henry Hotel</b> is the largest and best appointed
+hotel on Lake George. It has a most beautiful
+and commanding location, and the view from its great
+piazza is one long to be remembered. The piazza is
+twenty-four feet in width and supported by a row of
+Corinthian columns thirty feet high. The outlook from
+it at all times is enchanting, commanding as it does the
+level reaches of the lake for miles, with picturesque
+islands and promontories.</p>
+<p>
+About twelve miles from the hotel is Fourteen-mile
+Island which, with a number of others, form "The Narrows."
+The lake here is 400 feet deep, much fishing
+is done, and in the right season hunting parties start
+out. Black Mountain, the monarch of the lake, rises
+over two thousand feet above its waters (being 2,661
+feet above tide), and from the summit a magnificent view
+is obtained of Lake Champlain, the Green Mountains, the
+Adirondacks, and the distant course of the Hudson.</p>
+<p>
+A carriage drive to Schroon Lake and conveyance from
+Schroon Village to Adirondack resorts can be made from
+Lake George.</p>
+<p>
+Those who have only a day can make a delightful
+excursion from Saratoga to Caldwell by rail, then through
+the lake to Baldwin, and thence by rail to Saratoga, or
+<i>via</i> Baldwin and up the lake to Caldwell, and so to Saratoga.<a name="page195" id="page195"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;15]</span>
+But, to get the full beauty of this unrivaled lake, 
+the trip should be made with less haste, for there is
+no more delightful place in the world to spend a week,
+a month, or an entire summer. Its immediate surroundings 
+present much to interest the student of history and
+legend; and to lovers of the beautiful it acknowledges
+no rivals. The elevation and absolute purity of air make
+it a desirable place for the tourist. It is 346 feet above
+the level of the sea, 247 feet above Lake Champlain,
+and is now brought within six hours of New York City
+by the enterprise of the <i>Delaware &amp;Hudson Co</i>. It is
+a great question, and we talk it over every time we see
+the genial Passenger Traffic Manager of this enterprising
+line, whether Lake George or Lake Luzerne, in Switzerland,
+is the more beautiful. We were just deciding last
+summer, on the steamer "Horicon," that Lake George
+was more beautiful, but not so wild, when, as if the
+spirit of the lake were roused, a great black squall suddenly
+came over the mountains, and, the "crystal lake"
+for a few minutes, was as wild as any one might desire.
+We all were glad to see her smile again as she did half
+an hour afterward in the bright sunlight.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Oh the mystical glory that crowns them</p>
+    <p class="i2">Reflected in river and lake,</p>
+  <p>Like a fire that burns through the firs and ferns</p>
+    <p class="i2">By the paths that the wild deer take.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Eben E. Rexford.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"At its widest point Lake George measures about four
+miles, but at other places it is less than one mile in
+width. It is dotted with islands; how many we do not
+know exactly&mdash;nobody does; but tradition, which passes
+among the people of the district for history and truth,
+says there is exactly one island for every day in the
+year, or 365 in all. Whatever their real number they
+all are beautiful, although some of them are barely large
+enough to support a flagstaff, and they all seem to fit
+into the scene so thoroughly that each one seems necessary
+to complete the charm. On either side are high
+hills, in some places rising gently from the shores, and
+in others beetling up from the surface of the water
+with a rugged cliff, or time-worn mass of rocks, which<a name="page196" id="page196"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;196]</span>
+reminds one of the wild bits of rocky scenery that make
+up the savage beauty of the Isle of Skye.</p>
+<p>
+"Its clearness is something extraordinary. From a small
+boat, in many places, the bottom can be seen. Indeed,
+so mysteriously beautiful is the water that many visitors
+spend a day in a rowboat gazing into it at different
+points."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Each islet of green which the bright waters hold</p>
+<p>Like emeralds fresh from their bosom rolled.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Charles Fenno Hoffman.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Charles Dudley Warner says: "Bolton, among a host
+of attractive spots on the lake, holds, in my opinion,
+a rank among the two or three most interesting points.
+There is no point of Lake George where the views are
+so varied or more satisfactory, excepting the one from
+Sabbath-day Point. At Bolton the islets which dot the
+surface of the lake whose waters are blue as the sea in
+the tropics, carry the eye to the rosy-tinted range which
+includes Pilot, Buck and Erebus Mountains, and culminates
+in the stateliness of Black Mountain. Or, looking
+northwest, the superb masses of verdure on Green
+Island are seen mirrored on the burnished surface of the
+lake. Behind rises the mighty dividing wall called
+Tongue Mountain, which seems to separate the lake in
+twain, for Ganouskie, or Northwest Bay, five miles long,
+is in effect a lake by itself, with its own peculiar features."
+The Champlain Transportation Company runs a regular
+line of steamboats the entire length of the lake, making
+three round trips daily, except Sunday. The "Horicon"
+is a fine side-wheel steamer, 203 feet long and 52 feet
+wide, and will accommodate, comfortably, 1,000 people.</p>
+<p>
+At Fort Ti the tourist can continue his northern route
+<i>via</i> the <i>Delaware &amp;Hudson</i> to Hotel Champlain, Plattsburgh,
+Rouse's Point, or Montreal, or through Lake Champlain
+by steamer. The ruins of Fort Ti, like old Fort
+Putnam at West Point, are picturesque, and will well
+repay a visit.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Far off the dreaming waters lie,</p>
+    <p class="i2">White cascades leap in snowy foam,</p>
+  <p>Lake Champlain mirrors cloud and sky,</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Hudson seeks his ocean home.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Benjamin F. Leggett.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<a name="page197" id="page197"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;197]</span>
+
+
+<h4>Lake George to the Adirondacks.</h4>
+<p>
+The reader who does not visit Lake George may feel
+that he is switched off on a side-track at Fort Edward;
+so, coming to his rescue, we return and resume our
+northern journey <i>via</i> the main line, through Dunham's
+Basin, Smith's Basin, Fort Ann, and Comstock's Landing,
+to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Whitehall</b>, at the head of Lake Champlain. From
+this point north the <i>Delaware &amp;Hudson</i> crosses all
+thresholds for the Adirondacks, and shortens the journey
+to the mountain districts. It passes through five
+mountain ranges, the most southerly, the Black Mountain
+range, terminating in Mt. Defiance, with scattering spurs
+coming down to the very shore of the lake. The second
+range is known as the Kayaderosseras, culminating in
+Bulwagga Mountain. The third range passes through
+the western part of Schroon, the northern part of Moriah
+and centre of Westport, ending in Split Rock Mountain.
+The fourth range, the Bouquet range, ends in high bluffs
+on Willsboro Bay. Here the famous Red-Hook Cut is
+located, and the longest tunnel on the line.</p>
+<p>
+The fifth range, known as the Adirondack Range, as
+it includes the most lofty of the Adirondack Mountains,
+viz.: McIntyre, Colden and Tahawas, ends in a rocky
+promontory known as Tremblau Point, at Port Kent.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Afar the misty mountains piled,</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Adirondacks soaring free,</p>
+  <p>The dark green ranges lone and wild,</p>
+    <p class="i2">The Catskills looking toward the sea.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Benjamin F. Leggett.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+No wonder, with these mountain ranges to get through,
+that the subject was agitated year after year, and it
+was only when the Delaware and Hudson Company placed
+their powerful shoulder to the wheel, that the work began
+to go forward. For these mountains meant tunnels, and
+rock cuts, and bridges, and <i>cash</i>. Leaving Whitehall,
+we enter a tunnel near the old steamboat landing, cross
+a marsh, which must have suggested the beginning of
+the Pilgrim's Progress, for it seemed almost bottomless,
+and pass along the narrow end of the lake, still marked<a name="page198" id="page198"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;198]</span>
+by light-houses, where steamers once struggled and panted
+"like fish out of water," fulfilling the Yankee's ambition
+of running a boat on a heavy dew. Then winding in
+and out along the shore, we proceed to&mdash;</p>
+<p><a name="p198" id="p198"></a>
+<b>Ticonderoga</b>, 23 miles from Whitehall. Here terminates
+the first range of the Adirondacks, to which we
+have already referred, viz.: Mount Defiance. Steamers
+connect with the train at this point on Lake Champlain,
+also with a railroad for Lake George. Near the station
+we get a view of old Port Ticonderoga, where Ethan
+Allen breakfasted early one morning, and said grace in
+a brief and emphatic manner. The lake now widens into
+a noble sheet of water; we cross the Lake George outlet,
+enter a deep rock-cut, which extends a distance of about
+500 feet, and reach Crown Point thirty-four miles north
+of Whitehall. Passing along the shore of Bulwagga Bay
+we come to&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Port Henry</b>, 40 miles from Whitehall. A few miles
+further the railroad leaves the lake at Mullen Brook,
+the first departure since we left Whitehall, and we are
+greeted with cultivated fields and a charming landscape.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Westport</b>, 51 miles from Whitehall, is the railroad
+station for&mdash;</p>
+<p>
+<b>Elizabethtown</b>, the county seat of Essex. It is about
+eight miles from the station, nestled among the mountains.
+A county consisting mostly of mountain scenery
+could have no happier location for a head-centre. Elizabethtown
+forms a most delightful gateway to the Adirondacks
+either by stage route or pedestrian tour.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>A health to Ethan Allen and our commander Gates;</p>
+<p>To Lincoln and to Washington whom every Tory hates;</p>
+<p>Likewise unto our Congress, God grant it long to reign,</p>
+<p>Our country's right and justice forever to maintain.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Saratoga Revolutionary Ballad.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+A short distance north of Westport we enter the well-cultivated
+Bouquet Valley, and after a pleasant run
+come to Wellsboro Falls, where we enter seven miles of
+rock cutting. The road is about 90 feet above the lake,
+and the cuts in many places from 90 to 100 feet high.
+After leaving Red-Rock cut, we pass through a tunnel
+600 feet long. Crossing Higby's Gorge and rounding
+Tremblau Mountain, we reach&mdash;</p>
+
+<a name="page199" id="page199"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;199]</span>
+<p>
+<b>Port Kent</b>, the connecting point for the progressive
+village of Keeseville.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Ausable Chasm</b>, is only three miles from the station
+of Port Kent. It is many years since we visited the
+Chasm, but its pictures are still stamped upon our mind
+clearly and definitely&mdash;the ledge at Birmingham Falls,
+the Flume, the Devil's Pulpit, and the boat ride on the
+swift current. Indeed, the entire rock-rift, almost two
+miles in length, left an impression never to be effaced.
+The one thing especially peculiar, on account of the trend
+of the rock-layers was the illusion that we were floating
+up stream, and that the river compressed in these narrow
+limits, had "got tired" of finding its way out, until it
+thought that the easiest way was to run up hill and
+get out at the top.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Hear what the gray-haired woodmen tell</p>
+<p>Of this wild stream and its rocky dell.</p>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p199" id="p199"></a>
+<b>Bluff Point.</b>&mdash;On a commanding site 200 feet above
+the lake some three miles south of Plattsburgh, stands
+the superb "Hotel Champlain" commanding a view far-reaching
+and magnificent, from the Green Mountains on
+the east to the Adirondacks on the west. The hotel
+grounds comprise the same number of acres as the islands
+of Lake George, 365. The hotel is 400 feet long. We
+condense the following description from the "Delaware
+and Hudson Guide-book," which we can heartily endorse
+from many personal visits:</p>
+<p>
+"Resolute has been the struggle here with nature, where
+rocks, tangled forest and matted roots crowned the
+chosen spot; but upon the broad, smooth plateau finally
+created the Hotel Champlain has been placed, and all
+the surrounding forest, its solitudes still untamed, has
+been converted into a superb park, threaded with drives
+and bridle paths. At the foot of the gradual western
+slope of the ridge the handsome station of Bluff Point
+has been located beside the main line of the <i>Delaware &amp;
+Hudson Railroad</i>, the chief highway of pleasure and commercial
+travel between New York, Saratoga, Lake George,
+the Adirondacks and Canada.</p>
+
+<a name="page200" id="page200"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;200]</span>
+<p>
+"From the station where the coaches of the hotel await
+expected guests, a winding pike, the very perfection of
+a road, leads up the hill. From the carriage, as it rises
+to the crest, a wondrous outlook to the westward is opened
+to view. Nearly a thousand square miles of valley, lake
+and mountain are within range of the eye or included
+in the area encircled by visible peaks. As the porch of
+the hotel is reached, the view, enhanced by the fine foreground,
+is indeed beautiful, but still finer is the grandeur
+of the scene from the arches of the tall central dome of
+the house.</p>
+<p>
+"To the southward we see Whiteface, showing, late
+in spring and early in autumn, its coronet of almost perpetual
+snow; and in a grand circle still more southward
+we see in succession McIntyre, Marcy (both over 5,000
+feet high), Haystack, Dix, the Gothic peaks, Hurricane
+and the Giant. This noble sisterhood of mountains rises
+from the very heart of the wilderness, and yet the guests
+at the Hotel Champlain may reach any portion of their
+environment within a few hours."</p>
+<p>
+The fine equipment and frequent train service of the
+<i>Delaware &amp;Hudson</i> between New York and Bluff Point
+without change, by daylight or at night, and the direct
+connection of the same line with the Hudson River steamboats,
+places this resort high upon the list of available
+summering points in the dry and healthful north for
+families from the metropolis. Travel from the west,
+coming down the St. Lawrence River, or through Canada
+<i>via</i> Montreal, will find Bluff Point easy to reach; while
+from the White Mountains and New England seashore
+resorts it is accessible by through trains <i>via</i> St. Albans
+or Burlington.</p>
+<p>
+The western shore of Lake Champlain forms the margin
+of the most varied and altogether delightful wilderness
+to be found anywhere upon this continent east of the
+Rocky Mountains. The serried peaks to the westward
+are in plain view from its shores, their foot-hills ending
+<a name="page201" id="page201"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;201]</span>
+in lofty and often abrupt ridges where they meet the lake.
+Three impetuous rivers, the Saranac, the Salmon and the
+Ausable, flow down from the cool, clear lakes, hidden
+away in the wildwood, and, breaking through this barrier
+at and in the vicinity of Plattsburgh, contribute not only
+to the lucid waters of Lake Champlain but greatly to
+the picturesque variety of the region.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>There lie broad acres laced with rills</p>
+    <p class="i2">And gemmed with lake and pond</p>
+  <p>Behind a wave of wooded hills</p>
+    <p class="i2">And mountain peaks beyond.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Benjamin F. Leggett.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p201" id="p201"></a>
+<b>Plattsburgh</b>, 168 miles from Albany, at the mouth of
+the Saranac, is a delightful threshold to the Adirondacks.
+The northern part of Lake Champlain offers special attractions
+to camping parties. The shores and islands
+abound in excellent sites. Lake Champlain is also replete
+with interest to the historian. The ruins of Fort St.
+Anne are still seen on the north end of the Isle La Mott,
+built by the French in 1660. Valcour Strait, where one
+of the battles of '76 was fought; Valcour's Island, where
+lovers came from far and near, built air castles, wandered
+through these shady groves for a season or two,
+and then vanished from sight, bankrupt in everything
+but mutual affection; Cumberland Bay, with its victory,
+September, 1814, when the British were driven back to
+Canada; and many other points which can be visited by
+steamer or yacht.</p>
+<p>
+It is thirty years since I made my first trip to the
+Saranacs and I remember well the long journey of those
+early days, but now we can step aboard a well equipped
+train at Plattsburgh and in five or six hours stand by
+the bright waters of the Lower Saranac, which might
+to-day be called the centre and starting point for all
+resorts and camping grounds in the eastern lake district
+of the Adirondacks. Floating about the Saranac Islands
+of a summer evening, roaming among forest trees, strolling
+over to the little village one mile distant, and absorbing
+the rich exhilaration of a life of untrammeled freedom,
+with a perfect hotel, and blazing fire-places if the
+weather happens to be unpleasant, form a grand combination,
+alike for tourists or seekers after rest.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Where rosy zephyr lingers</p>
+    <p class="i2">All the livelong day,</p>
+  <p>With health upon his pinions</p>
+    <p class="i2">And gladness on his way.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i16"><i>George P. Morris.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" /><br /><br />
+
+ <a name="page202" id="page202"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;202]</span>
+
+
+<h2>SOURCE OF THE HUDSON.</h2>
+
+<p>
+In our journey from Albany to Plattsburgh, we have
+indicated various routes to the Adirondacks: By way
+of Saratoga and North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake
+following the course of the Hudson which might therefor
+be called "The Hudson Gateway;" <i>via</i> Lake George,
+Westport, and Elizabethtown, suited for carriage and
+pedestrian trips, and <i>via</i> Plattsburgh, which might be
+termed "The Northern Portal." In addition to these it
+has been my lot to make several trips up the valley of
+the Sacandaga to Lake Pleasant and Indian Lake, and
+<i>via</i> Schroon Lake to Sanford and Lake Henderson&mdash;and
+four times to ascend the mountain trail of Tahawas to
+the tiny rills and fountains of the Hudson, but one trip
+abides in memory distinct and unrivalled, which may be
+of service to those who wish to visit in fact or fancy
+the head waters of the Hudson.</p>
+<p><a name="p202" id="p202"></a>
+<b>The Tahawas Club.</b>&mdash;We took the cars one bright
+August morning from Plattsburgh to Ausable Forks, a
+distance of twenty miles, hired a team to Beede's, some
+thirty miles distant from the "Forks;" took dinner at
+Keene, and pursued our route up the beautiful valley
+of the Ausable.</p>
+<p>
+From this point we visited Roaring-Brook Falls, some
+four hundred feet high, a very beautiful waterfall in
+the evening twilight. The next morning we started,
+bright and early, for the Ausable Ponds. Four miles
+brought us to the Lower Ausable. The historic guide,
+"old Phelps," rowed us across the lower lake, pointing
+out, from our slowly moving and heavily laden scow,
+"Indian Head" on the left, and the "Devil's Pulpit" on<a name="page203" id="page203"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;203]</span>
+the right, lifted about eight hundred feet above the level
+of the lake. "Phelps" remarked with quaint humor, that
+he was frequently likened to his Satanic Majesty, as he
+often took clergymen "up thar." The rocky walls of
+this lake rise from one thousand to fifteen hundred feet
+high, in many places almost perpendicular. A large eagle
+soared above the cliffs, and circled in the air above us,
+which we took as a good omen of our journey.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+                    <p class="i12">The rills</p>
+  <p>That feed thee rise among the storied rocks</p>
+  <p>Where Freedom built her battle-tower.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>William Wallace.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p203" id="p203"></a>
+After reaching the southern portion of the lake, a
+trail of a mile and a quarter leads to the <b>Upper Ausable</b>&mdash;the
+gem of the Adirondacks. This lake, over two thousand
+feet above the tide, is surrounded on all sides by
+lofty mountains. Our camp was on the eastern shore,
+and I can never forget the sunset view, as rosy tints
+lit up old Skylight, the Haystack and the Gothics; nor
+can I ever forget the evening songs from a camp-fire
+across the lake, or the "bear story" told by Phelps, a
+tale never really finished, but made classic and immortal
+by Stoddard, in his spicy and reliable handbook to the
+North Woods.</p>
+<p>
+The next morning we rowed across the lake and took
+the Bartlett trail, ascending Haystack, some five thousand
+feet high, just to get an appetite for dinner; our guide
+encouraging us on the way by saying that there never
+had been more than twenty people before "on that air
+peak." In fact, there was no trail, and in some places
+it was so steep that we were compelled to go up on all
+fours; or as Scott puts it more elegantly in the "Lady
+of the Lake":</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+              <p class="i8">"The foot was fain</p>
+  <p>Assistance from the hand to gain."</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+The view from the summit well repaid the toil. We
+saw Slide Mountain, near by to the north, and Whiteface
+far beyond, perhaps twenty-five miles distant; northeast,
+the Gothics; east, Saw-teeth, Mt. Colvin, Mt. Dix,
+and the lakes of the Ausable. To the southeast, Skylight;<a name="page204" id="page204"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;204]</span>
+northwest, Tahawas, still foolishly styled on some
+of our maps, Mt. Marcy. The descent of Haystack was
+as easy as Virgil's famous "Descensus Averni." We
+went down in just twenty minutes. The one that reached
+the bottom first simply possessed better adaptation for
+rolling.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Eagles still claim the loftiest heights: from there</p>
+    <p class="i2">They scan with solemn eyes the scenes below&mdash;</p>
+  <p>The river and the hills which shall endure</p>
+    <p class="i2">While man's frail generations come and go.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>E. A. Lente.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p204" id="p204"></a>
+One mile from the foot of Haystack brought us to
+Panther Gorge Camp, appropriately named, one of the
+wildest spots in the Adirondacks. We remained there
+that night and slept soundly, although a dozen of us
+were packed so closely in one small camp that no individual
+could turn over without disarranging the whole
+mass. Caliban and Trinculo were not more neighborly,
+and Sebastian, even sober, would have been fully justified
+in taking us for "a rare monster" with twenty legs.</p>
+<p>
+The next morning we ascended Tahawas, but saw
+nothing save whirling clouds on its summit. Twice since
+then we have had better fortune, and looked down from
+this mountain peak, five thousand three hundred and
+forty-four feet above the sea, upon the loveliest mountain
+landscape that the sun ever shone upon. We went
+down the western slope of Tahawas, through a driving
+rain, to Camp Colden, where, with clothes hung up to
+dry, we looked like a party of New Zealanders preparing
+dinner, hungry enough, too, to make an orthodox meal of
+each other. The next day the weather cleared up, and
+we made a trip of two miles over a rough mountain trail
+to Lake Avalanche, whose rocky and precipitous walls
+form a fit christening bowl, or baptistery-font for the
+infant Hudson.</p>
+<p><a name="p205" id="p205"></a>
+Returning to Camp Colden and resuming our western
+march, two miles brought us to Calamity Pond, where
+a lone monument marks the spot of David Henderson's
+death, by the accidental discharge of a pistol. Five miles
+from this point brought us to the "Deserted Village," or
+the Upper Adirondack Iron Works, with houses and<a name="page205" id="page205"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;205]</span>
+furnaces abandoned, and rapidly falling into decay. Here
+we found a cheery fireside and cordial welcome.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>All the sad story of forest and flower,</p>
+<p>All the red glory of sunsetting hour,</p>
+<p>Comes till I seem to lie lapped in bright dreams</p>
+<p>Lulled by the lullaby murmur of streams.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>James Kennedy.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+Had I time to picture this level, grass-grown street,
+with ten or fifteen square box-looking houses, windowless,
+empty and desolate; a school-house with its long vacation
+of twenty-three years; a bank with heavy shutters and
+ponderous locks, whose floor, Time, the universal burglar,
+had undermined; two large furnaces with great rusty
+wheels, whose occupation was gone forever; a thousand
+tons of charcoal, untouched for a quarter of a century;
+thousands of bricks waiting for a builder; a real haunted
+house, whose flapping clap-boards contain more spirits
+than the Black Forests of Germany&mdash;a village so utterly
+desolate, that it has not even the vestige of a graveyard&mdash;if
+I could picture to you this village, as it appeared
+to me that weird midnight, lying so quiet,</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>"under the light of the solemn moon,"</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+you would realize as I did then, that truth is indeed
+stranger than fiction, and that Goldsmith in <i>his</i> "Deserted
+Village" had not overdrawn the description of
+desolate Auburn.</p>
+<p>
+By special request, we were permitted to sleep that
+night in the Haunted House and no doubt listened to
+the first crackling that the old fire-place had known for
+years. Many bedsteads in the old building were still
+standing, so we only needed bedding from the hotel to
+make us comfortable. As we went to sleep we expressed
+a wish to be interviewed in the still hours of the night
+by any ghosts or spirits who might happen to like our
+company; but the spirits must have been absent on a
+visit that evening, for we slept undisturbed until the old
+bell, suspended in a tree, rang out the cheery notes of
+"trout and pickerel." We understand that the Haunted
+House from that night lost its old-time reputation, and
+is now frequently brought into requisition as an "Annex,"
+whenever the hotel or "Club House," as it is now called,<a name="page206" id="page206"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;206]</span>
+happens to be full. The "Deserted Village" is rich in
+natural beauty. Lakes Henderson and Sanford are near
+at hand, and the lovely Preston Ponds are only five miles
+distant.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Stately and awful was the form of Tahawas, the old</p>
+<p>scarred warrior king of the mountains, and yet it owns</p>
+<p>pines that sing like the sea, brooks that warble like the</p>
+<p>robin, and flowers that scent the air like the orange-blossoms</p>
+<p>of Italy.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Alfred B. Street.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p><a name="p206" id="p206"></a>
+Resuming our march through Indian Pass, under old
+Wall-Face Mountain, we reached a comfortable farmhouse
+at sunset, near North Elba, known by the name
+of Scott's. The next morning we visited John Brown's
+house and grave by the old rock, and read the beautiful
+inscription, "Bury me by the Old Rock, where I used
+to sit and read the word of God."</p>
+<p>
+From this point we went to Lake Placid, engaged a
+lad to row us across the lake&mdash;some of our party had
+gone on before&mdash;and strapped our knapsacks for another
+mountain climb. We were fortunate in having a lovely
+day, and from its sparkling glacier-worn summit we could
+look back on all the mountains of our pleasant journey,
+and far away across Lake Champlain to Mount Mansfield
+and Camel's Hump of the Green Mountains, and farther
+still to the faint outlines of Mount Washington. We
+reached Wilmington that night, drove the next morning
+to Ausable Forks, and took the cars for Plattsburgh. The
+ten days' trip was finished, and at this late hour I
+heartily thank the Tahawas Club of Plattsburgh for
+taking me under their generous care and guidance. We
+took Phelps, our guide, back with us to Plattsburgh.
+When he reached the "Forks," and saw the cars for
+the first time in his life, he stooped down and, examining
+the track, said, "What tarnal little wheels." I suppose
+he concluded that if the ordinary cart had two large
+wheels, that real car wheels would resemble the Rings
+of Saturn. He saw much to amuse and interest him
+during his short stay in Plattsburgh, but after all he
+thought it was rather lonesome, and gladly returned to
+his lakes and mountains, where he slept in peace, with
+the occasional intrusion of a "Bar" or a "Painter."
+He knew the region about Tahawas as an engineer knows<a name="page207" id="page207"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;207]</span>
+his engine, or as a Greek professor knows the pages of
+his lexicon. He had lived so closely with nature that
+he seemed to understand her gentlest whispers, and he
+had more genuine poetry in his soul than many a man
+who chains weak ideas in tangled metre.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Lake Avalanche with rocky wall</p>
+    <p class="i2">And Henderson's dark-wooded shore,</p>
+  <p>Your echoes linger still and call</p>
+    <p class="i2">Unto my soul forevermore.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/239-950.png"><img src="images/239-453.png" width="453" height="450" alt="INDIAN HEAD." border="0" /></a><br /><br />
+<b>INDIAN HEAD.</b>
+</p><br /><br />
+
+
+<p>
+Since that first delightful trip I have visited the Adirondacks
+many times, and I hope this summer to repeat
+the excursion. To me Tahawas is the grand centre. It
+remains unchanged. In fact, the route I have here traced
+is the same to-day as then. Even the rude camps are
+located in the same places, with the exception that the<a name="page208" id="page208"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;208]</span>
+trail has been shortened over Tahawas, and a camp established
+on Skylight. With good guides the route is not
+difficult for ladies in good health,&mdash;say sufficient health
+to endure half a day's shopping. Persons contemplating
+the mountain trip need blankets, a knapsack, and a
+rubber cloth or overcoat; food can be procured at the
+hotels or farm houses.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>The old English ballads have all the sparkle, the</p>
+<p>energy and the rhythm of our mountain streams, but</p>
+<p>Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare and Bunyan are the</p>
+<p>crystal lakes from which flow the river, ay, the Hudson</p>
+<p>of our language.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Wallace Bruce</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+In this hasty sketch I have had little space to indulge
+in picture-painting. I passed Bridal-Veil Fall without
+a reference. I was tempted to loiter on the banks of
+the Feld-spar and the bright Opalescent, but I passed by
+without even picking a pebble from the clear basins of
+its sparkling cascades. I passed the "tear of the clouds,"
+four thousand feet above the tide&mdash;that fountain of the
+Hudson nearest to the sky, without being beguiled into
+poetry. I have not ventured upon a description of a sunrise
+view from the summit of Tahawas, of the magic
+effect of light above clouds that clothe the surrounding
+peaks in garments wrought, it seems, of softest wool,
+until mist and vapor dissolve in roseate colors, and the
+landscape lies before us like an open book, which many
+glad eyes have looked upon again and again. I have left
+it for your guides to tell you, by roaring camp-fires, long
+stories of adventure in trapping and hunting, of wondrous
+fishes that grow longer and heavier every season, although
+captured and broiled many and many a year ago&mdash;trout
+and pickerel literally pickled in fiction, served and
+re-served in the piquant sauce of mountain vocabulary.
+In brief, I have kept my imagination and enthusiasm
+under strict control. But, after all, the Adirondacks are
+a wonderland, and we, who dwell in the Hudson and
+Mohawk valleys, are happy in having this great park
+of Nature's making at our very doors.</p>
+<p>
+It has charms alike for the hunter, the angler, the
+artist, the writer, and the scientist. Let us rejoice,
+therefore, that the State of New York is waking at
+last to the fact, that these northern mountains were<a name="page209" id="page209"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;209]</span>
+intended by nature to be something more than lumber
+ranches, to be despoiled by the axe, and finally revert
+to the State for "taxes" in the shape of bare and desolate
+wastes. Nor can the most practical legislator charge
+those, who wish to preserve the Adirondack woods, with
+idle sentiment; as it is now an established scientific fact
+that the rainfall of a country is largely dependent upon
+its forest land. If the water supply of the north were
+cut off, to any perceptible degree, the Hudson, during
+the months of July and August, would be a mere sluice
+of salt water from New York to Albany; and the northern
+canals, dependent on this supply, would become empty
+and useless ditches. Our age is intensely practical, but
+we are fortunate in this, that so far as the preservation
+of the Adirondacks is concerned, utility, common sense,
+and the appreciation of the beautiful are inseparably
+blended.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Wild umbrage far around me clings</p>
+    <p class="i2">To breezy knoll and hushed ravine,</p>
+  <p>And o'er each rocky headland flings</p>
+    <p class="i2">Its mantle of refreshing green.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Henry T. Tuckerman</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>
+To those persons who do not desire long mountain
+jaunts, who simply need some quiet place for rest and
+recuperation, I would suggest this: Select some place
+near the base of these clustered mountains, like the tasty
+Adirondack Lodge at Clear Pond, only seven miles from
+the summit of Tahawas, or Beede's pleasant hotel, high
+and dry above Keene Flats, near to the Ausable Ponds,
+or some pleasant hotel or quiet farm-house in the more
+open country near Lake Placid and the Saranacs. But
+I prophesy that the spirit of adventure will come with
+increased strength, and men and women alike will be
+found wandering off on long excursions, sitting about
+great camp-fires, ay, listening like children to tales which
+have not gathered truth with age. If you have control
+of your time you will find no pleasanter months than
+July, August and September, and when you return to
+your firesides with new vigor to fight the battle of life,
+you will feel, I think, like thanking the writer for having
+advised you to go thither.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>To shut up a glen or a waterfall for one man's exclusive</p>
+<p>enjoying; to fence out a genial eye from any</p>
+<p>corner of the earth which nature has lovingly touched;</p>
+<p>to lock up trees and glades shady paths and haunts</p>
+<p>along rivulets, would be an embezzlement by one man</p>
+<p>of God's gifts to all.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>N. P. Willis.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="p210" id="p210"></a>
+I have written in this article the Indian name, <b>Tahawas</b>,<a name="page210" id="page210"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;210]</span>
+in the place of Mt. Marcy, and for this reason: There
+is no justice in robbing the Indian of his keen, poetic
+appreciation, by changing a name, which has in itself
+a definite meaning, for one that means nothing in its
+association with this mountain. We have stolen enough
+from this unfortunate race, to leave, at least, those names
+in our woodland vocabulary that chance to have a musical
+sound to our imported Saxon ears. The name Tahawas
+is not only beautiful in itself, but also poetic in its
+interpretation&mdash;signifying "I cleave the clouds." Coleridge,
+in his glorious hymn, "Before sunrise in the vale
+of Chamouni," addresses Mount Blanc:</p>
+
+<div class="poem1">
+<div class="stanza">
+          <p class="i8">"Around thee and above</p>
+  <p>Deep is the air and dark, substantial, black&mdash;</p>
+  <p>An ebon mass. Methinks thou piercest it.</p>
+  <p><i>As with a wedge!</i>"</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+The name or meaning of Tahawas was never made
+known to the great English poet, who died sixty years
+ago. Is it not remarkable that the untutored Indian, and
+the keenist poetic mind which England has produced for
+a century, should have the same idea in the uplifted
+mountains? There is also another reason why we, as a
+State, should cherish the name Tahawas. While the
+Sierra Nevadas and the Alps slumbered beneath the
+waves of the ocean, before the Himalayas or the Andes
+had asserted their supremacy, scientists say, that the
+high peaks of the Adirondacks stood alone above the
+waves, "the cradle of the world's life;" and, as the clouds
+then encircled the vast waste of water, Tahawas then
+rose&mdash;"Cleaver" alike of the waters and the clouds.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Tahawas, rising stern and grand,</p>
+    <p class="i2">"Cloud-sunderer" lift thy forehead high,</p>
+  <p>Guard well thy sun-kissed mountain land</p>
+    <p class="i2">Whose lakes seem borrowed from the sky.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" /><br /><br />
+
+<a name="page211" id="page211"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;211]</span>
+
+<h2>GEOLOGY OF THE HUDSON.</h2>
+
+<p>
+In addition to various geological references scattered
+through these pages the following facts from an American
+Geological Railway Guide, by James Macfarlane,
+Ph.D., will be of interest.</p>
+<p>
+"The State of New York is to the geologist what the
+Holy Land is to the Christian, and the works of her
+Palæontologist are the Old Testament Scriptures of the
+science. It is a Laurentian, Cambrian, Silurian and Devonian
+State, containing all the groups and all the formations
+of these long ages, beautifully developed in belts
+running nearly across the State in an east and west
+direction, lying undisturbed as originally laid down.</p>
+<p>
+"The rock of New York Island is gneiss, except a
+portion of the north end, which is limestone. The south
+portion is covered with deep alluvial deposits, which
+in some places are more than 100 feet in depth. The
+natural outcroppings of the gneiss appeared on the surface
+about 16th Street, on the east side of the city, and
+run diagonally across to 31st Street on 10th Avenue.
+North of this, much of the surface was naked rock. It
+contains a large proportion of mica, a small proportion
+of quartz and still less feldspar, but generally an abundance
+of iron pyrites in very minute crystals, which, on
+exposure, are decomposed. In consequence of these
+ingredients it soon disintegrates on exposure, rendering
+it unfit for the purposes of building. The erection of
+a great city, for which this island furnishes a noble site,
+has very greatly changed its natural condition. The
+geological age of the New York gneiss is undoubtedly<a name="page212" id="page212"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;212]</span>
+very old, not the Laurentian or oldest, nor the Huronian,
+but it belongs to the third or White Mountain series,
+named by Dr. Hunt the Montalban. It is the same range
+which is the basis rock of nearly all the great cities of
+the Atlantic coast. It crosses New Jersey where it is
+turned to clay, until it appears under Trenton, and it
+extends to Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington and Richmond,
+Va., and probably Boston, Massachusetts, is founded
+on this same formation.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Oh, river! darkling river! what a voice</p>
+<p>Is that thou utterest while all else is still!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>William Cullen Bryant</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"On the opposite side of the river may here be seen
+for many miles the Palisades, a long, rough mountain
+ridge close to the water's edge. Its upper half is a perpendicular
+precipice of bare rock of a columnar structure
+from 100 to 200 feet in height, the whole height of the
+mountain being generally from 400 to 600 feet, and the
+highest point in the range opposite Sing Sing 800 feet
+above the Hudson, and known as the High Torn. The
+width of the mountain is from a half mile to a mile
+and a half, the western slope being quite gentle. In
+length it extends from Bergen Point below Jersey City
+to Haverstraw, and then westward in all 48 miles, the
+middle portion being merely a low ridge. The lower half
+of the ridge on the river side is a sloping mound of
+detritus, of loose stones which has accumulated at the
+base of the cliff, from its weathered and wasted surface.</p>
+<p>
+"Viewed from the railroad or from a steamboat on
+the river, this lofty mural precipice with its huge
+weathered masses of upright columns of bare rock, presenting
+a long, straight unbroken ridge overlooking the
+beautiful Hudson River, is certainly extremely picturesque.
+Thousands of travelers gaze at it daily without
+knowing what it is. This entire ridge consists of no
+other rock than trap traversing the Triassic formation
+in a huge vertical dike. The red sandstone formation of
+New Jersey is intersected by numerous dikes of this kind,
+but this is much the finest. The materials of this mountain
+have undoubtedly burst through a great rent or<a name="page213" id="page213"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;213]</span>
+fissure in the strata, overflowing while in a melted or
+plastic condition the red sand-stone, not with the violence
+of a volcano, for the adjoining strata are but little disturbed
+in position, although often greatly altered by the
+heat, but forced up very slowly and gradually, and probably
+under pressure. Subsequent denudation has laid
+bare the part of the mountain now exposed along the
+river. The rock is columnar basalt, sometimes called
+greenstone, and is solid, not stratified like water-formed
+rocks, but cracked in cooling and of a crystalline structure.
+Here is a remarkable but not uncommon instance of a
+great geological blank. On the east side of this river
+the formations belong to the first or oldest series of
+Primary or Crystalline rocks, while on the west side they
+are all Triassic, the intermediate Cambrian, Silurian,
+Devonian and Carboniferous formations being wanting.
+This state of things continues all along the Atlantic coast
+to Georgia, the Cretaceous or Jurassic taking the place
+of the Triassic farther south.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Like thine, O, be my course&mdash;nor turned aside,</p>
+<p>While listening to the soundings of a land,</p>
+<p>That like the ocean call invites me to its strand.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Mrs. Seba Smith.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"Montrose to Cornwall. This celebrated passage of
+the Hudson through the Highlands, is a gorge nearly
+20 miles long from 3 miles south of Peekskill to Fishkill,
+and is worn out of the Laurentian rocks far below mean
+tide water. The hills on its sides rise in some instances
+as much as 1,800 feet, and in many places the walls
+are very precipitous. The rock is gneiss, of a kind that
+is not easily disintegrated or eroded, nor is there any
+evidence of any convulsive movement. It is clearly a
+case of erosion, but not by the present river, which has
+no fall, for tide water extends 100 miles up the river
+beyond the Highlands. This therefore was probably a
+work mainly performed in some past period when the
+continent was at a higher level. Most likely it is a
+valley of great antiquity.</p>
+<p>
+"Opposite Fishkill is Newburgh, which is in the great
+valley of Lower Silurian or Cambrian limestone and
+slate. North of that, on the west side of the river, the<a name="page214" id="page214"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;214]</span>
+formations occur in their usual order, their outcrops
+running northeast and southwest. On the <i>N. Y. C. &amp;
+H. R. R. R.</i>, on the east side, the same valley crosses,
+and the slates from Fishkill to Rhinebeck are about the
+same place in the series; but being destitute of fossils
+and very much faulted, tilted and disturbed, their precise
+geology is uncertain. See the exposures in the cuts at
+Poughkeepsie. The high ground to the east is commonly
+called the Quebec group.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>Amid thy forest solitudes one climbs</p>
+    <p class="i2">O'er crags, that proudly tower above the deep,</p>
+  <p>Along the verge of the cliff, and he can hear</p>
+  <p>The low dash of the wave with startled ear.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i32"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+"A series of great dislocations with upthrows on the
+east side traverse eastern North America from Canada
+to Alabama. One of these great faults has been traced
+from near the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, keeping
+mostly under the water up to Quebec just north of the
+fortress, thence by a gently curving line to Lake Champlain
+or through western Vermont across Washington
+County, N. Y., to near Albany. It crosses the river near
+Rhinebeck 15 miles north of Poughkeepsie and continues
+on southward into New Jersey and runs into another
+series of faults probably of a later date, which extends
+as far as Alabama. It brings up the rocks of the so
+called Quebec group on the east side of the fracture to
+the level of the Hudson River and Trenton.</p>
+<p>
+"Catskill Mountains. For many miles on this railroad
+are beautiful views of the Catskill Mountains, 3,800 feet
+high, several miles distant on the opposite or west side
+of the river, and which furnish the name for the Catskill
+formation. The wide valley between them and the river
+is composed of Chemung, Hamilton, Lower Helderberg
+and Hudson River. The geology on the east or railroad
+side is entirely different.</p>
+<p>
+"Albany. The clay beds at Albany are more than 100
+feet thick, and between that city and Schenectady they
+are underlaid by a bed of sand that is in some places
+more than 50 feet thick. There is an old glacial clay
+and boulder drift below the gravel at Albany, but Professor
+Hall says it is not the estuary stratified clay."</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>There has that little stream of water been playing</p>
+<p>among the hills since He made the world, and none</p>
+<p>know how often the hand of God is seen in a wilderness</p>
+<p>but them that rove it for a man's life.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>James Fenimore Cooper.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" /><br /><br />
+<a name="page215" id="page215"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;215]</span>
+
+<h2>THE HUDSON TIDE.</h2>
+
+<h4>(<i>Condensed from article by permission of writer.</i>)</h4>
+
+<p>
+The tide in the Hudson River is the continuation of
+the tide-wave, which comes up from the ocean through
+New York Bay, and is carried by its own momentum one
+hundred and sixty miles, growing, of course, constantly
+smaller, until it is finally stopped by the dam at Troy.
+The crest of this wave, or top high water, is ten hours
+going from New York to Troy. A steamer employing
+the same time (ten hours) for the journey, and starting
+at high water in New York, would carry a flood tide
+and highest water all the way, and have an up-river current
+of about three miles an hour helping her. On the
+other hand, the same steamer starting six hours later,
+or at low tide, would have dead low water and an ebb
+tide current of about three miles against her the entire
+way. The average rise and fall of the tides in New York
+is five and one-half feet, and in Troy, about two feet.</p>
+<p>
+Flood tide may carry salt water, under the most favorable
+circumstances, so that it can be detected at Poughkeepsie;
+ordinarily the water is fresh at Newburgh.</p>
+<p>
+To those who have not studied the tides the following
+will also be of interest.</p>
+<p>
+The tides are the semi-diurnal oscillations of the ocean,
+caused by the attraction of the moon and sun.</p>
+<p>
+The influence of the moon's attraction is the preponderating
+one in the tide rising force, while that of the sun
+is about two-fifths as much as that of the moon. The
+tides therefore follow the motion of the moon, and the
+average interval between the times of high water is the
+half length of the lunar day, or about twelve hours and
+twenty-five minutes.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Nor lives there one whose boyhood's days</p>
+<p>Of happiness were passed beneath that sun,</p>
+<p>That in his manhood-prime can calmly gaze</p>
+<p>Upon that Bay, or on that mountain stand,</p>
+<p>Nor feel the prouder of his native land.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i24"><i>Fitz-Greene Halleck.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" /><br /><br />
+
+ <a name="page216" id="page216"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;216]</span>
+
+
+<h2>CONDENSED POINTS.</h2>
+
+<h4><i>As Seen on the Hudson River Day Line Steamers.</i></h4>
+
+<p>
+<i>Desbrosses Street Pier.</i> On leaving landing a charming
+view is obtained of New York Harbor with Bartholdi
+Statue to the south.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Stevens Castle.</i> Above Jersey City docks on the west,
+crowning a commanding site.</p>
+<p>
+<i>St. Michael's Monastery</i>, or Monastery of the Passionist
+Fathers, on west bank above Elysian Fields; distinguished
+by large dome and towers of the St. Paul
+(London) style of architecture. This dome is 300 feet
+high, and its summit is 515 feet above the Hudson.</p>
+<p>
+<i>42d Street Pier.</i> Midway to the dwellers of Greater
+New York and convenient to all Elevated, Subway and
+Trolley Lines.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Weehawken</i>, on the west bank, about opposite 50th
+Street. Near the river bank was the scene of the Hamilton
+and Burr duel, 1804.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument</i>, 89th Street, New York.
+Dedicated May 30, 1902. Corner stone laid in 1900 by
+President Roosevelt when Governor.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Columbia University.</i> Stately buildings on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>St. Luke's Hospital.</i> Beautiful dome in the distance
+southeast of college.</p>
+<p>
+<i>The Cathedral of St. John the Divine</i>, now in construction,
+will be one of the finest structures in the world.</p>
+<p>
+<i>General Grant's Tomb</i> at Riverside Drive and 123d
+Street.</p>
+<p>
+<i>129th Street Pier.</i> Above this landing is the Steel
+Viaduct of the Boulevard Drive.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>The land that from the rule of kings</p>
+    <p class="i2">In freeing us itself made free,</p>
+  <p>Our old world sister to us brings</p>
+    <p class="i2">Her sculptured dream of liberty.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>John G. Whittier.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page217" id="page217"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;217]</span>
+<p>
+<i>Carmansville</i> (where Audubon, the ornithologist lived),
+a city suburb at 152d Street.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Trinity Cemetery</i>, 152d Street, and above this Audubon
+Park.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Old Fort Washington</i> once crowned the hills on the east
+bank. Fort Lee was almost opposite on the southern
+point of the Palisades.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Stewart Castle</i>, east bank, formerly owned by A. T.
+Stewart.</p>
+<p>
+<i>University of City of New York</i> with dome, in distance.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Inwood.</i> Station on the Hudson River Railroad, above
+the heights. Place once known as Tubbie Hook.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Palisades</i>, on west bank, extend fifteen miles from Fort
+Lee to Piermont, a sheer wall of trap rock from 300
+to 500 feet high.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Spuyten Duyvil</i>, on east bank northern boundary of
+Manhattan Island.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Site of Fort Independence</i>, east bank, on height north
+of Spuyten Duyvil.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Riverdale Station.</i> Station on the Hudson River Railroad
+above Spuyten Duyvil. Yonkers rising on the green
+slope to the north; and the Palisades blending in the
+far distance with green headlands of the Ramapo Range.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Convent of Mount St. Vincent.</i> The gray, castle-like
+structure in front, was once the home of Edwin Forrest.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Yonkers</i>, seventeen miles from Battery.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Greystone</i>, on east bank, crowning hill, about one and a
+half miles north of Yonkers. Once property of Samuel
+J. Tilden.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Hastings</i>, pleasant village on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Indian Head</i> (510 feet), opposite Hastings, highest
+point of Palisades.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Dobb's Ferry</i>, on east bank, named after an old Swedish
+ferryman.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Cottinet Place</i>, on east bank, built of stone brought from
+France. Easily distinguished by light shade through trees.</p>
+<p>
+<i>George L. Schuyler's Residence</i>, near east bank. The<a name="page218" id="page218"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;218]</span>
+late Col. James A. Hamilton's house almost east of Mr.
+Schuyler's. Stiner's place distinguished by its large dome.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>From this brow of rock</p>
+<p>That overlooks the Hudson's western marge,</p>
+<p>I gaze upon the long array of groves,</p>
+<p>The piles and gulfs of verdure drinking in the grateful heat.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>William Cullen Bryant.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<i>Ardsley</i>, on east bank, just above Dobb's Ferry.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Ardsley Club</i> and Golf Links.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Irvington</i>, 24 miles from New York, named after Washington 
+Irving.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Piermont</i>, on west bank, with pier almost one mile in
+length extending into river.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Sunnyside</i>, home of Washington Irving, east bank, one-half
+mile north of Irvington Station, close to river bank
+and scarcely seen through the trees.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Helen M. Gould's Residence</i>, east bank, prominent Abbey-like
+structure, known as "Lyndehurst."</p>
+<p>
+<i>Tarrytown</i>, east bank, 26 miles from New York.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Nyack</i>, west bank, opposite Tarrytown.</p>
+<p>
+<i>J. D. Rockefeller's New Home</i> on Kykuit or Kake-out
+Mt. back of Tarrytown.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Tappan Zee</i>, reaching from Dobb's Ferry to Croton
+Point, is about three miles wide at Tarrytown.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Sleepy Hollow</i>, east bank, north of Tarrytown; burial
+place of Washington Irving. The tall shaft visible from
+steamer, erected by the Delavan family, is near his grave.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Kingsland Point</i>, east bank, above lighthouse.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Rockwood</i>, home of William Rockefeller. One of the
+most imposing residences on the river.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Mrs. Elliot F. Shepard's Residence</i>, on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Ramapo Mountains</i>, on west side above Nyack, known
+as "Point No Point."</p>
+<p>
+<i>Ossining</i>, on east bank, six miles north of Tarrytown.
+Prison buildings are near the river below the village.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Rockland Lake</i>, opposite Sing Sing, between two hills;
+source of the Hackensack River.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Croton River</i>, on east bank, meets the Hudson one mile
+above Sing Sing; crossed by drawbridge of the Hudson
+River Railroad.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Teller's Point.</i> That part of Croton Point which juts<a name="page219" id="page219"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;219]</span>
+into the Hudson. This point separates Tappan Zee from
+Haverstraw Bay.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>O Tappan Zee! with peaceful hills,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And slumbrous sky and drowsy air,</p>
+  <p>Thy calm and restful spirit stills</p>
+    <p class="i2">The heart weighed down with weary care.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce</i>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p>
+<i>Haverstraw Bay</i>, widest part of the river; over four
+miles in width.</p>
+<p>
+<i>West Shore R. R. Tunnel</i> under mountain.</p>
+<p>
+<i>West Shore Railroad</i>, west bank, meets the Hudson
+south of Haverstraw.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Haverstraw</i>, on west bank, with two miles of brickyards.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Treason Hill</i>, where Arnold and Andre met at the house
+of Joshua Hett Smith, northwest of Haverstraw.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Stony Point</i>, west bank. Lighthouse built on site and
+from the material of old fort captured from British by
+Anthony Wayne in 1778.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Verplank's Point</i>, on east shore, full of brickyards.
+It was here Baron Steuben drilled the soldiers of '76.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Tompkin's Cove</i>, on west bank. Lime kilns and quarries.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Peekskill</i>, east bank, pleasantly located on Peekskill
+Bay.</p>
+<p>
+<i>New York State Encampment</i>, on bluff north of Peekskill
+Creek.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Kidd's Point</i>, on west bank, where steamer enters Highlands
+almost at a right angle.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Dunderberg Mountain</i>, west bank, forming with Manito
+Mountain on the east southern portal of Highlands.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Iona Island</i>, former pleasure resort for excursions, now
+converted to Government use.</p>
+<p>
+<i>The Race.</i> The river channel is so termed by navigators,
+between Iona Island and the east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Anthony's Nose</i>, east bank, with railroad tunnel.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Montgomery Creek</i>, on west side, empties into the Hudson
+about opposite the point of Anthony's Nose. <i>Fort
+Clinton</i> was on the south side of this creek, and <i>Fort
+Montgomery</i> on the north side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>J. Pierpont Morgan's Residence</i>, on west bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Sugar-Loaf</i>, east bank, resembling an old "sugar-loaf"
+to one looking north from Anthony's Nose.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>From Stony Point to Bemis Height,</p>
+    <p class="i2"> Saratoga to the sea,</p>
+  <p>We trace the lines, now dark, now bright,</p>
+    <p class="i2">From seventy-six to eighty-three.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Wallace Bruce.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page220" id="page220"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;220]</span>
+<p>
+<i>Beverley Dock</i>, at foot of Sugar-Loaf, from which point
+Arnold fled to the "Vulture."</p>
+<p>
+<i>Lady-Cliff Academy</i>, (west side) on bluff.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Hamilton Fish's Residence</i>, on hill, east side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>William H. Osborne's Residence</i>, on east bank; house
+with pointed tower north of Sugar-Loaf.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Sam Sloan's</i> lookout tower, east side, on top of mountain.
+Residence on hillside below.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Buttermilk Falls</i>, on west bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>West Point</i>, 50 miles from New York, Academy Buildings
+and Parade Grounds.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Memorial Hall</i>, building on bluff above landing.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Kosciusko's Garden</i> with monument and spring below
+Memorial.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Garrison</i>, opposite West Point on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Fort Putnam</i> (596 feet), above the Hudson on west.</p>
+<p>
+<i>West Point Hotel</i>, west bank, wide outlook to the north.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Battle Monument</i>, surmounted by Statue of "Victory."</p>
+<p>
+<i>Constitution Island</i>, on east bank; chain was thrown
+across the river at this point during the Revolution.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Old Cro' Nest</i>, picturesque mountain north of West
+Point on west bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Cold Spring</i>, on east bank, opposite Old Cro' Nest.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Undercliff</i>, once the home of George P. Morris, on slope
+north of Cold Spring.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Break Neck Mountain</i>, on east bank, from which point
+the Highlands trend away to the northeast, known as the
+Beacon Mountains or the Fishkill Range.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Storm King</i>, on west bank, marking northern portal of
+the Highlands.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Cornwall</i>, under the slope of Storm King.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Pollopel's Island</i>, at northern portal of the Highlands.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Idlewild</i>, above Cornwall, former home of N. P. Willis.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Washington's Headquarters</i>, Newburgh, seen as the boat
+approaches the city. A flag-staff marks the point.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Newburgh</i>, west bank, 59 miles from New York.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Fishkill Landing</i>, on east bank, opposite Newburgh.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Let us toast our foster-father, the Republic as you know&mdash;</p>
+<p>Who in the path of science taught us upward for to go&mdash;</p>
+<p>And the maidens of our native land whose cheeks like roses glow,</p>
+<p>They're oft remembered in our songs, at Benny Havens&mdash;oh!</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i40"><i>Benny Havens, West Point.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page221" id="page221"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;221]</span>
+<p>
+<i>Low Point</i> or <i>Carthage</i>, 4 miles above Fishkill.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Devil's Dans Kammer</i>, point on west bank covered with
+cedars.</p>
+<p>
+<i>New Hamburg</i>, above Low Point, on the east side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Hampton Point</i>, opposite New Hamburgh. Here are
+the finest white cedars on the river.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Irving Grinnell's Residence, "Netherwood,"</i> east bank,
+just distinguished through the trees.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Shawangunk Mountains</i>, on the west side, reach away
+in the distance toward the Catskills.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Marlborough</i> and <i>Milton</i>, on west bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Locust Grove.</i> Home of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse
+on east bank, with square central tower.</p>
+<p>
+<i>The Lookout</i>, a wooded hill owned by Poughkeepsie
+Cemetery.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Livingston Place</i>, now occupied by a rolling mill.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Vassar Brothers Hospital</i>, brick building on the hillside.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Poughkeepsie</i>, 74 miles from New York.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Poughkeepsie Bridge</i>, 12,608 feet in length. Track 212
+feet above tide-water.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Mrs. John F. Winslow's Residence</i>, seen through opening
+of trees on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Hudson River State Hospital.</i> Large red buildings on
+east bank, two miles north of Poughkeepsie.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Hyde Park</i>, on the east side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Residence of Frederick W. Vanderbilt</i>, with white marble
+Corinthian columns.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Manresa Institute</i>, large building above Crum Elbow,
+on west side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>A. R. Frothingham.</i> Grecian portico with columns.</p>
+<p>
+<i>John Burrough's</i> brown stone cottage, north of Frothingham's.</p>
+<p>
+<i>The Novitiate of the Redemption Fathers</i>, a large new
+building on west bank at Esopus.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Staatsburgh, on east side.</i> Dock and ice houses in foreground.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>While fashion seeks the islands</p>
+    <p class="i2">Encircled by the sea,</p>
+  <p>Taste finds the Hudson Highlands</p>
+    <p class="i2">More beautiful to see.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>George P. Morris.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page222" id="page222"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;222]</span>
+<p>
+<i>D. O. Mills' Mansion</i>, palatial residence on the east bank
+above Staatsburgh.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Dinsmore's Residence</i>, a large building charmingly
+located on Dinsmore Point, east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Ellerslie</i>, residence of Ex-Vice-President Levi P. Morton,
+below Rhinecliff.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Rhinecliff</i>, on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>City of Kingston</i>, embraces Kingston and Rondout.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Kingston Point.</i> Delightful park and picnic grounds
+near the landing.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Old Beekman Place</i>, on east bank, a short distance
+above Rhinecliff. One of the old Revolutionary houses.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Ferncliff, Residence of John Jacob Astor.</i> Fine villa
+with pointed tower.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Out-of-Door Sports.</i> A large building on east bank,
+erected by Mr. Astor.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Garretson Place</i>, north of Ferncliff, on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>"Leacote," Douglas Merritt's Residence</i>, north of Clifton
+Point.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Flatbush</i>, on west bank opposite Clifton Point.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Rokeby, Residence of late William B. Astor</i>, above
+Astor's Point.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Barrytown</i>, on east side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Aspinwall Place</i>, north of Barrytown, formerly John
+R. Livingston's place.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Montgomery Place</i>, east bank, among the trees.</p>
+<p>
+"<i>Annandale</i>," name of John Bard's place. East of
+this is St. Stephen's College, a training school for the
+ministry.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Cruger's Residence</i>, on Cruger's Island&mdash;once called
+Lower Red Hook Island.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Tivoli</i>, on east side, 100 miles from New York.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Glasco</i>, south of Tivoli on the west side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Saugerties</i>, on the west side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Idele</i>, property of Miss Clarkson, known as the old
+Chancellor Place, on east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Hotel Kaaterskill</i> is plainly seen from this point.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>O would that she were here,</p>
+    <p class="i2">Sure Eden's garden-plot,</p>
+  <p>Did not embrace more varied charms</p>
+    <p class="i2">Than this romantic spot.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>George P. Morris.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page223" id="page223"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;223]</span>
+<p>
+<i>Malden</i>, above Saugerties, on west side.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Clermont</i>, above Tivoli. The original Livingston manor.</p>
+<p>
+<i>West Camp</i>, on west side, above Malden.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Four County Island.</i> The "meeting point" of Dutchess,
+Columbia, Greene and Ulster.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Germantown</i>, on east side, 105 miles from New York.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Man in the Mountain.</i> Between Germantown and Catskill
+we get a fine view of the reclining giant, traced by
+the following outline:&mdash;the peak to the south is the <i>knee</i>;
+the next to the north is the <i>breast</i>; and two or three above
+this, the <i>chin</i>, the <i>nose</i>, and the <i>forehead</i>.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Roeliff Jansen's Kill</i> meets the Hudson on east bank
+above what is known by the pilots as Nine Mile Tree.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Herman Livingston's Residence</i>, on point above.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Catskill Creek</i> joins the Hudson south of Catskill.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Catskill</i>, 110 miles from New York. Route from this
+point to Catskill Mountains, via Catskill Mountain Railroad.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Prospect Park Hotel</i>, on west bank, north of Catskill.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Cole's Grove</i>, north of Catskill. Here was the residence
+of Thomas Cole, the artist.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Frederick E. Church's Residence.</i> One of the most
+commanding sites and finest residences, opposite Catskill.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Rodger's Island</i>, on the east side, where the last battle
+was fought between the Mohawks and the Mahicans.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Mount Merino</i>, two miles north of Roger's Island.</p>
+<p>
+<i>State Reformatory for Women</i>, on bluff south of Hudson.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Hudson</i>, 115 miles from New York. Promenade Hill
+just north of landing.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Athens</i>, quiet village, on the west bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Stockport.</i> On east side, four miles north of Hudson,
+near the mouth of Columbiaville Creek, formed by the
+union of the Kinderhook and Claverack Creeks.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Four-mile Point.</i> On west side, about 125 feet high;
+four miles from Hudson and four from Coxsackie.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Coxsackie.</i> On west side, 8 miles from Hudson.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p>For while the beautiful moon arose,</p>
+    <p class="i2">And drifted the boat in the yellow beams,</p>
+  <p>My soul went down the river of thought</p>
+    <p class="i2">That flows in the mystic land of dreams.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+  <p class="i24"><i>Richard Henry Stoddard.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<a name="page224" id="page224"></a><span class="left">[page&nbsp;224]</span>
+<p>
+<i>Newtown Hook</i>, opposite Coxsackie. The wooded point
+is called Prospect Grove.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Stuyvesant.</i> On the east side. Once called Kinderhook
+Landing.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Schodack Island.</i> On east side, about two miles above
+Stuyvesant. The island is about 3 miles long.</p>
+<p>
+<i>New Baltimore.</i> About opposite the centre of Schodack
+Island; fifteen miles from Hudson and fifteen from
+Albany. The Government dykes begin opposite New Baltimore.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Berren Island.</i> Site of the famous "Castle of Rensselaerstien."</p>
+<p>
+<i>Coeymans.</i> Right above Berren Island. Above Coeymans
+is what is known as the Coeyman's Cross Over.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Shad Island.</i> The first island to the westward above
+Coeymans; 3 miles long; old Indian fishing ground.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Castleton</i>, on east bank, in the town of Schodack.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Mourdeners Kill</i>, a small stream which empties into
+the Hudson above Castleton.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Sunnyside Island</i> near east bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Cedar Hill</i>, above, on west bank.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Staats Island</i>, settled by the Staats family before the
+arrival of the Van Rensselaers.</p>
+<p>
+<i>The Overslaugh</i> reaches from Van Wies' Point (the
+first point above Cedar Hill), on east bank, about two
+miles up the river.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Albany</i>, 142 miles from New York, is now near at hand,
+and we see to the south the Convent of the Sacred Heart;
+to the north the Cathedral, the Capitol, the State House,
+the City Hall, etc.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Rensselaer</i>, opposite. Connected with Albany by ferries
+two railroad bridges, and carriage bridge.</p>
+<p>
+<i>Old Van Rensselaer Place.</i> One of the Van Rensselaer
+houses on the east bank, built before the Revolution. The
+tourist will note the port holes on either side of the door
+as defense against Indians.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>In love to the deep-bosomed stream of the west</p>
+<p>I fling this loose blossom to float on its breast.</p></div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p class="i32"><i>Oliver Wendell Holmes.</i></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="short" />
+<br /><br />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad06-757.png"><img src="images/ad06-342.png" width="342" height="450" alt="advert - Keeler's Hotel and Restaurant, Albany, N. Y." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad07-698.png"><img src="images/ad07-305.png" width="305" height="450" alt="advert - Hathorn Water, Hathorn Springs, Saratoga, N. Y." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad08-976.png"><img src="images/ad08-600.png" width="600" height="440" alt="advert - Hotel Champlain, Clinton County, N. Y." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad09-718.png"><img src="images/ad09-315.png" width="315" height="450" alt="advert - Visit the Fountain of Youth, Saratoga Springs" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad10-716.png"><img src="images/ad10-320.png" width="320" height="450" alt="advert - Wallace Bruce's Poems" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad11-739.png"><img src="images/ad11-332.png" width="332" height="450" alt="advert - The Royal Hotel, Edinburgh, Scotland" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad12-706.png"><img src="images/ad12-361.png" width="361" height="450" alt="advert - The Arlington, Washington D.C." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad13-714.png"><img src="images/ad13-312.png" width="312" height="450" alt="advert - Great Family Hotel, Broadway Central, New York" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad14-707.png"><img src="images/ad14-317.png" width="317" height="450" alt="advert - United States Hotel, Boston " border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad15-800.png"><img src="images/ad15-325.png" width="325" height="450" alt="advert - The Delaware and Hudson R. R." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad16-1060.png"><img src="images/ad16-330.png" width="330" height="450" alt="advert - Hudson River Day Line" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad17-705.png"><img src="images/ad17-314.png" width="314" height="450" alt="advert - West Point Hotel" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad18-739.png"><img src="images/ad18-328.png" width="328" height="450" alt="advert - Hotel American-Adelphi, Saratoga Springs" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad19-707.png"><img src="images/ad19-321.png" width="321" height="450" alt="advert - Nelson House, Poughkeepsie, N. Y." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad20-724.png"><img src="images/ad20-322.png" width="322" height="450" alt="advert - The Palatine, Newburgh, N. Y." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad21-1031.png"><img src="images/ad21-325.png" width="325" height="450" alt="advert - Catskill Evening Line" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad22-1023.png"><img src="images/ad22-301.png" width="301" height="450" alt="advert - The Ulster and Delaware R. R." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad23-1006.png"><img src="images/ad23-312.png" width="312" height="450" alt="advert - Anchor Line" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad24-1071.png"><img src="images/ad24-321.png" width="321" height="450" alt="advert - Clyde Steamship Company" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad25-1066.png"><img src="images/ad25-317.png" width="317" height="450" alt="advert - F. W. Devoe and C. T. Reynolds Co." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad26-720.png"><img src="images/ad26-321.png" width="321" height="450" alt="advert - The Kenmore, Albany, N. Y." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad27-1070.png"><img src="images/ad27-317.png" width="317" height="450" alt="advert - See America First" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad28-1066.png"><img src="images/ad28-318.png" width="318" height="450" alt="advert - Mexican Gulf Coast Resorts" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad29-713.png"><img src="images/ad29-328.png" width="328" height="450" alt="advert - Hotels St. Denis and Martinique" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/ad30-1067.png"><img src="images/ad30-319.png" width="319" height="450" alt="advert - Louisville and Nashville R. R." border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center">
+<a href="images/cover-back-877.png"><img src="images/cover-back-316.png" width="316" height="450" alt="back cover" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+
+<a name="tn" id="tn"></a>
+<table align="center" summary="Transcriber's Notes">
+<tr>
+    <td class="note">
+
+<p class="center" style="font-size:1.2em;">Transcriber's Note<br />
+
+</p>
+<p>	
+Each page of this book contained, as a footer, a stanza of 
+poetry, or a prose quotation, which, although pertinent to the text, was not part of it.</p>
+<p>
+I have retained these footers, moving them to a suitable location between paragraphs, 
+and enclosing them in short horizontal rules. 
+Any poetry not enclosed within short horizontal rules is an integral 
+part of the text.</p><br />
+
+<p class="center" style="font-size:1.2em;">Maps</p>
+<p>
+The author used a long strip map, cut into four sections, 
+with the end of the journey, being North,  under the header. I have detached the header, reversed the 
+order of the maps, and inserted the (clickable thumbnail) maps closer to the text they represent.
+The header (on page 32) now has beneath it links to the four maps.</p>
+<p>
+Note: All maps and illustrations link to enlargements.</p><br /><br />
+
+<p class="center" style="font-size:1.2em;">Errata (Old Typos) and Corrections</p>
+<ul>
+<li>TOC:&mdash;<ul><li>
+Entries for "New Amsterdam" and "The Dutch and the English" reversed, 
+and page number for New Amsterdam changed from 25 to 23.</li>
+<li>Page number for "New York" changed from 26 to 27.</li>
+<li>Page number for "Yonkers to West Point" changed from 59 to 60.</li>
+<li>Changed: '97-104' to '97-103', to match entry.</li>
+<li>Changed: '152' (1st listing) to '151', to match entry.</li>
+<li>Page number for "Source of the Hudson" changed from 201 to 202.</li>
+<li>Changed: 'Colombia County' to 'Columbia Springs', to match entry.</li>
+</ul></li>
+<li>Page 9: Restored missing period and missing half of closing quote.
+[Illustration: <i>Hendrick Hudson's "Half Moon."</i>]</li>
+<li>Page 35: added 's' to 'landing' (...steamers make their various landings.)</li>
+<li>Page 43: removed extraneous closing quote.</li>
+<li>Page 46: added comma after 'erection' (..., now in process of erection, ...)</li>
+<li>Page 55: added 's' to 'make'
+(forgetting even, as Bryant did, that a vertical
+line from the top of the cliff on account of the crumbling
+debris of ages make(s) it impossible for even the strongest
+arm to hurl a stone from the summit to the margin of
+the river).</li>
+<li>Page 59: missing closing quote, and possibly also missing text in paragraph? (one narrator says: "remarkable disappearances ...) </li>
+<li>Page 76: changed 'materal' to 'material'.</li>
+<li>Page 80: changed 'Revoluton'to 'Revolution'.</li>
+<li>Page 94: added missing comma after 'library': 
+"The Library, founded in 1812, has about 50,000 volumes."</li>
+<li>Page 95: changed 'Seige' to 'Siege'. "... Siege Battery on the slope...." </li>
+<li>Page 96: changed 'pictureque' to 'picturesque'.</li>
+<li>Page 107: changed (Major Tench) 'Tighlman' to 'Tilghman'. </li>
+<li>Page 107: added opening quote ..."the proclamation of Congress and the farewell orders of Washington were read, and the last word of command given."</li>
+<li>Page 108/9: changed 'proclams' to 'proclaims'.</li>
+<li>Page 110: changed: 'The Marquis De Chastelleaux' to 'The Marquis De Chastellux' (ref.: google)</li>
+<li>Page 113: changed: 'The Marquis De Chastelleux' to 'The Marquis De Chastellux' </li>
+<li>Page 125: added 's' to 'thousand' (thousands of young men)</li>
+<li>Page 129: (While sunset gilds) 'theee', to 'thee',</li>
+<li>Page 139: changed 'openng' to 'opening'.</li>
+<li>Page 145: changed 'Sofly' to 'Softly'. </li>
+<li>Page 153: changed 'communicaton' to 'communication'.</li>
+<li>Page 153: added closing quote (in about 32 hours.")</li>
+<li>Page 155: changed 'wth' to 'with'</li>
+<li>Page 173: changed 'thousand' to 'thousands' (...thousands of laboring men... )</li>
+<li>Page 205: added 's' to 'brick' (thousands of bricks)</li>
+<li>Page 212: added " to para beginning ("Viewed from the railroad ...)</li>
+<li>Page 212: added 's' to 'thousand' (Thousands of travellers ...)</li>
+ </ul>
+ <p>
+Also added: Periods and commas, various (in the poetry footnotes).
+The text appears worn; there is space for a period (and a couple of letters 
+are missing), so I am assuming that the missing punctuation may have been rubbed off 
+the page.</p>
+
+<p>
+I have also encountered a number of instances throughout the book where
+the author quoted from an external source and omitted either the opening
+or closing quotation mark, and it is not obvious from the text just
+where the quote began or ended. In a couple of instances I have hazarded 
+a guess, but have otherwise left the single quotaton mark in place, as it 
+appears in the original.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center"><a href="#return">[Return]</a></p>
+	</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Hudson, by Wallace Bruce
+
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+<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
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+</body>
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+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Hudson, by Wallace Bruce
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Hudson
+       Three Centuries of History, Romance and Invention
+
+Author: Wallace Bruce
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2006 [EBook #17823]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HUDSON ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Curtis Weyant, Lesley Halamek and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by Cornell University Digital Collections)
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Each page of this book contained, as a footer, a
+stanza of poetry, or a prose quotation, which, although pertinent to
+the text, were not part of it.
+
+I have retained these, moving them to a suitable location between
+paragraphs, and enclosing them in short markers: * * * ....* * *. Any
+poetry not enclosed within short * * * markers is an integral part of
+the text.
+
+The list of typos and corrections is at the end of the book.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE HUDSON
+
+  Three Centuries of
+  History, Romance and Invention
+
+
+
+  BY WALLACE BRUCE
+
+
+
+
+  Centennial Edition
+
+
+
+
+  Published by
+  BRYANT UNION COMPANY
+  NEW YORK
+
+
+
+COPYRIGHT 1907 BY WALLACE BRUCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CENTENNIAL GREETING.
+                                                             PAGE
+
+HISTORY, ROMANCE AND INVENTION                      9-39
+  An Open Book                                                 10
+  The Hudson and the Rhine                                     11
+  The Half Moon                                                12
+  Its Discovery                                                15
+  First Description                                            16
+  Names of the Hudson                                          18
+  Hills and Mountains                                          19
+  Sources of the Hudson                                        19
+  First Settlement                                             20
+  The West India Company                                       21
+  Original Manors and Patents                                  23
+  The Dutch and the English                                    24
+  New Amsterdam                                                25
+  New York                                                     26
+  Sons of Liberty                                              28
+  Greater New York                                             30
+  Hudson River Steamboats                                      31
+  Day Line Steamers                                            34
+  The Old Reaches                                              38
+  Five Divisions of the Hudson                                 39
+
+
+NEW YORK TO ALBANY.
+
+DESBROSSES STREET PIER TO FORTY-SECOND STREET      41-43
+  Historic River Front                                         41
+  A Great Panorama                                             41
+  Statue of Liberty--Stevens Castle                            42
+
+FORTY-SECOND TO ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-NINTH       43-48
+  Weehawken, Hamilton and Burr                                 43
+  Riverside Drive and Park                                     45
+  Columbia University                                          46
+  General Grant's Tomb                                         46
+
+ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY-NINTH ST. TO YONKERS        49-50
+  Washington Heights                                           49
+  The Palisades                                                52
+  Island of Manhattan                                          56
+  Spuyten Duyvel Creek                                         57
+  Yonkers                                                      58
+
+YONKERS TO WEST POINT                              59-96
+  Hastings and Dobbs Ferry                                     60
+  Tappan Zee and Piermont                                      61
+  Irvington and "Sunnyside"                                    62
+  Washington Irving                                            63
+  The Headless Horseman                                        66
+  Tarrytown and Tappan                                         67
+  Sleepy Hollow                                                70
+  Nyack                                                        72
+  Ossining                                                     73
+  Croton River and Reservoir                                   74
+  Haverstraw                                                   75
+  Stony Point                                                  77
+  Peekskill                                                    79
+  Story of Captain Kidd                                        80
+  The Highlands                                                81
+  Dunderberg                                                   82
+  Anthony's Nose                                               83
+  Fort Clinton and Fort Montgomery                             84
+  Beverley House                                               87
+  Arnold's Flight                                              88
+  Buttermilk Falls                                             91
+  West Point Military Academy                                  92
+  Plateau Buildings and Memorials                           93-94
+  Fort Putnam                                                  95
+
+WEST POINT TO NEWBURGH                            97-103
+  Northern Gate of Highlands                                   98
+  "Undercliff"                                                 99
+  Storm King                                                  100
+  Cornwall and "Idlewild"                                     102
+
+NEWBURGH TO POUGHKEEPSIE                         104-128
+  Washington's Headquarters                                   104
+  Refusing the Crown                                          105
+  Suffering of Soldiers                                       106
+  Cessation of Hostilities                                    107
+  Marquis de Lafayette                                        109
+  Centennial Celebration                                      110
+  Fishkill                                                    113
+  Duyvel's Dans Kammer                                        118
+  "Locust Grove"                                              119
+  The Storm Ship                                              120
+  Poughkeepsie                                                121
+
+POUGHKEEPSIE TO KINGSTON                         129-146
+  Hyde Park                                                   130
+  Mount Hymettus                                              130
+  Rhinecliff                                                  135
+  City of Kingston                                            136
+  The Senate House                                            138
+  The Southern Catskills                                      142
+
+KINGSTON TO CATSKILL                             147-168
+  Montgomery Place                                            147
+  Story of Steam Navigation                                   149
+  Robert Fulton                                               151
+  The "Clermont"                                              152
+  Tivoli                                                      154
+  Saugerties                                                  156
+  The Livingston Country                                      157
+  The "Shad Industry"                                         158
+  Germantown                                                  160
+  Man in the Mountain                                         161
+  New York City Water Supply                                  162
+  The Clover Reach                                            163
+  Catskill                                                    164
+  Otis Elevating Railway                                      165
+
+CATSKILL TO HUDSON                               169-172
+  Hudson                                                      169
+  Columbia Springs                                            170
+  Claverack and Hillsdale                                     171
+
+HUDSON TO ALBANY                                 173-185
+  Athens                                                      173
+  The Ice Industry                                            173
+  Anthony Van Corlear                                         176
+  The Mahican Tribe                                           177
+  The Mahicans, Delawares and Iroquois                        178
+  The Old Van Rensselaer House                                180
+  Albany                                                      181
+
+
+THE UPPER HUDSON.
+
+ALBANY TO SARATOGA                               186-191
+    Saratoga                                                  187
+    Historic Saratoga                                         189
+    Mount McGregor                                            190
+
+SARATOGA TO THE ADIRONDACKS                      191-201
+    Saratoga to Lake George                                   192
+
+LAKE GEORGE TO THE ADIRONDACKS                   197-201
+    Ticonderoga                                               198
+    Bluff Point                                               199
+    Plattsburgh and the Saranacs                              201
+
+SOURCE OF THE HUDSON                             202-210
+    The Tahawas Club                                          202
+    The Upper Ausable                                         203
+    Haystack and Camp Colden                                  204
+    The Deserted Village                                      205
+    Indian Pass                                               206
+    Tahawas                                                   210
+
+GEOLOGY, TIDES AND CONDENSED POINTS              211-224
+    Geological Formation                                  211-215
+    The Hudson Tide                                           215
+    Condensed Points--New York to Albany                  216-224
+
+
+[Illustration: ROBERT FULTON'S "CLERMONT" 1807]
+
+
+
+
+1907--1909
+
+_CENTENNIAL GREETING_
+
+
+_Hendrick Hudson and Robert Fulton are closely associated in the
+history of our river, and more particularly at this time, as the dates
+of their achievements unite the centennial of the first successful
+steamer in 1807, with the tri-centennial of the discovery of the river
+in 1609. In fact, these three centuries of navigation, with rapidly
+increasing development in later years, might be graphically
+condensed--_
+
+"_Half Moon_," _1609_; "_Clermont_," _1807_;
+
+"_Hendrick Hudson_," _1906_.
+
+_Singularly enough the discovery of Hendrick Hudson, and the invention
+of Robert Fulton are also similar in having many adverse claimants who
+forget the difference between attempt and accomplishment._
+
+_Everyone knows that Verrazano entered the Narrows and harbor of
+our river in 1524, and sailed far enough to see the outline of the
+Palisades; that Gomez visited its mouth in 1525; Cabot still earlier
+in 1498; and various Norsemen, named and nameless, for several
+centuries before them, coasted along the shore and indenture of the
+"River of the Manhattoes," but failed to acquire or transmit any
+knowledge of the river's real course or character, and it was left for
+Hendrick Hudson to be its first voyager and thereby to have and to
+hold against all comers the glory of discovery._
+
+       * * *
+
+  A century vast of Hudson-fame
+    Which Irving's fancy seals;
+  Whose ripples murmur Morse's name
+    And flash to Fulton's wheels.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+_So Robert Fulton had several predecessors in the idea of applying
+steam to navigation--John Fitch in 1785, William Symington in 1788 and
+many others who likewise_ coasted along the shore and indenture of a
+great idea, _marked by continual failure and final abandonment. It was
+reserved for Fulton to complete and stamp upon his labor the seal of
+service and success, and to stand, therefore, its accepted inventor._
+
+_In addition to the invention of Fulton who has contributed so much
+to the business and brotherhood of mankind, the telegraph of Morse
+occupies a prominent page of our Hudson history, and it is said that
+Morse left unfinished a novel, the incidents of which were associated
+with the Highlands, in order to work out his idea which gave the
+Hudson a grander chapter._
+
+_Fulton's and Morse's inventions are also happily associated in this,
+that the steamboat was necessary before the Atlantic cable, born of
+Morse's invention, could be laid, and, singularly enough, the laying
+of the cable, largely promoted by Hudson River genius and capital,
+by Field, Cooper, Morse and others on August 5, 1857, marks the very
+middle of the centennial which we are now observing._
+
+       * * *
+
+  A cycle grand with wonders fraught
+    That triumph over time and space;
+  In woven steel its dreams are wrought,
+    The nations whisper face to face.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: _Hendrick Hudson's "Half Moon_."]
+
+
+
+
+THE HUDSON
+
+
+Among all the rivers of the world the Hudson is acknowledged queen,
+decked with romance, jewelled with poetry, clad with history, and
+crowned with beauty. More than this, the Hudson is a noble threshold
+to a great continent and New York Bay a fitting portal. The traveler
+who enters the Narrows for the first time is impressed with wonder,
+and the charm abides even with those who pass daily to and fro amid
+her beauties. No other river approaches the Hudson in varied grandeur
+and sublimity, and no other city has so grand and commodious a harbor
+as New York. It has been the privilege of the writer of this handbook
+to see again and again most of the streams of the old world "renowned
+in song and story," to behold sunrise on the Bay of Naples and sunset
+at the Golden Gate of San Francisco, but the spell of the Hudson
+remains unbroken, and the bright bay at her mouth reflects the
+noontide without a rival. To pass a day in her company, rich with
+the story and glory of three hundred years, is worth a trip across a
+continent, and it is no wonder that the European traveler says again
+and again: "to see the Hudson alone, is worth a voyage across the
+Atlantic."
+
+       * * *
+
+    A very good land to fall in with and a pleasant land to see!
+
+    _Hendrick Hudson_
+
+       * * *
+
+How like a great volume of history romance and poetry seem her bright
+illumined pages with the broad river lying as a crystal book-mark
+between her open leaves! And how real this idea becomes to the Day
+Line tourist, with the record of Washington and Hamilton for its
+opening sentence, as he leaves the Up-Town landing, and catches
+messages from Fort Washington and Fort Lee. What Indian legends
+cluster about the brow of Indian Head blending with the love story of
+Mary Phillipse at the Manor House of Yonkers. How Irving's vision of
+Katrina and Sleepy Hollow become woven with the courage of Paulding
+and the capture of Andre at Tarrytown. How the Southern Portal of the
+Highlands stands sentineled by Stony Point, a humble crag converted by
+the courage of Anthony Wayne into a mountain peak of Liberty.
+
+How North and South Beacon again summon the Hudson yeomen from harvest
+fields to the defense of country, while Fort Putnam, still eloquent in
+her ruins, looks down upon the best drilled boys in the world at West
+Point. Further on Newburgh, Poughkeepsie and Kingston shake fraternal
+hands in the abiding trinity of Washington, Hamilton and Clinton,
+while northward rise the Ontioras where Rip Van Winkle slept, and woke
+to wonder at the happenings of twenty years.
+
+What stories of silent valleys told by murmuring streams from the
+Berkshire Hills and far away fields where Stark and Ethan Allen
+triumphed. What tales of Cooper, where the Mohawk entwines her fingers
+with those of the Susquehanna, and poems of Longfellow, Bryant and
+Holmes, of Dwight, of Halleck and of Drake; ay, and of Yankee
+Doodle too, written at the Old Van Rensselaer House almost within a
+pebble-throw of the steamer as it approaches Albany. What a wonderful
+book of history and beauty, all to be read in one day's journey!
+
+       * * *
+
+    Roll on! Roll on!
+  Thou river of the North! Tell thou to all
+  The isles, tell thou to all the Continents
+  The grandeur of my land.
+
+  _William Wallace._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Hudson has often been styled "The Rhine of America." There is,
+however, little of similarity and much of contrast. The Rhine from
+Dusseldorf to Manheim is only twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet
+in breadth. The Hudson from New York to Albany averages more than five
+thousand feet from bank to bank. At Tappan Zee the Hudson is ten times
+as wide as the Rhine at any point above Cologne. At Bonn the Rhine is
+barely one-third of a mile, whereas the Hudson at Haverstraw Bay is
+over four miles in width. The average breadth of the Hudson from New
+York to Poughkeepsie is almost eight thousand feet.
+
+The mountains of the Rhine also lack the imposing character of
+the Highlands. The far-famed Drachenfels, the Landskron, and the
+Stenzleburg are only seven hundred and fifty feet above the river;
+the Alteberg eight hundred, the Rosenau nine hundred, and the great
+Oelberg thirteen hundred and sixty-two. According to the latest United
+States Geological Survey the entire group of mountains at the northern
+gate of the Highlands is from fourteen hundred to sixteen hundred and
+twenty-five feet in height, not to speak of the Catskills from three
+thousand to almost four thousand feet in altitude.
+
+It is not the fault of the Rhine with its nine hundred miles of
+rapid flow that it looks tame compared with the Hudson. Even the
+Mississippi, draining a valley three thousand miles in extent, looks
+insignificant at St. Louis or New Orleans contrasted with the Hudson
+at Tarrytown. The Hudson is in fact a vast estuary of the sea; the
+tide rises two feet at Albany and six inches at Troy. A professor of
+the Berlin University says: "You lack our castles but the Hudson is
+infinitely grander." Thackeray, in "The Virginians," gives the Hudson
+the verdict of beauty; and George William Curtis, comparing the Hudson
+with the rivers of the Old World, has gracefully said: "The Danube
+has in part glimpses of such grandeur, the Elbe has sometimes such
+delicately penciled effects, but no European river is so lordly in its
+bearing, none flows in such state to the sea."
+
+       * * *
+
+    I have been up and down the Hudson by water. The entire river is
+    pretty, but the glory of the Hudson is at West Point.
+
+    _Anthony Trollope._
+
+       * * *
+
+Baedeker, a high and just authority, in his recent Guide to the United
+States says: "The Hudson has sometimes been called the American Rhine,
+but that title perhaps does injustice to both rivers. The Hudson,
+through a great part of its extent, is three or four times as wide
+as the Rhine, and its scenery is grander and more inspiring; while,
+though it lacks the ruined castles and ancient towns of the German
+river, it is by no means devoid of historical associations of a more
+recent character. The vine-clad slopes of the Rhine have, too, no
+ineffective substitute in the brilliant autumn coloring of the
+timbered hillsides of the Hudson."
+
+       * * *
+
+  A stately stream around which as around
+  The German Rhine hover mystic shapes
+
+  _Richard Burton_
+
+       * * *
+
+What must have been the sensation of those early voyagers, coasting a
+new continent, as they halted at the noble gateway of the river and
+gazed northward along the green fringed Palisades; or of Hendrick
+Hudson, who first traversed its waters from Manhattan to the Mohawk,
+as he looked up from the chubby bow of his "Half Moon" at the massive
+columnar formation of the Palisades or at the great mountains of the
+Highlands; what dreams of success, apparently within reach, were his,
+when night came down in those deep forest solitudes under the shadowy
+base of Old Cro' Nest and Klinkerberg Mountain, where his little craft
+seemed a lone cradle of civilization; and then, when at last, with
+immediate purpose foiled, he turned his boat southward, having
+discovered, but without knowing it, something infinitely more valuable
+to future history than his long-sought "Northwestern Passage to
+China," how he must have gazed with blended wonder and awe at the
+distant Catskills as their sharp lines came out, as we have seen
+them many a September morning, bold and clear along the horizon, and
+learned in gentle reveries the poetic meaning of the blue _Ontioras_
+or "Mountains of the Sky." How fondly he must have gazed on the
+picturesque hills above Apokeepsing and listened to the murmuring
+music of Winnikee Creek, when the air was clear as crystal and the
+banks seemed to be brought nearer, perfectly reflected in the glassy
+surface, while here and there his eye wandered over grassy uplands,
+and rested on hills of maize in shock, looking for all the world like
+mimic encampments of Indian wigwams! Then as October came with tints
+which no European eye had ever seen, and sprinkled the hill-tops
+with gold and russet, he must indeed have felt that he was living an
+enchanted life, or journeying in a fairy land!
+
+How graphically the poet Willis has put the picture in musical prose:
+"Fancy the bold Englishman, as the Dutch called Hendrick Hudson,
+steering his little yacht the 'Haalve Maan,' for the first time
+through the Highlands. Imagine his anxiety for the channel forgotten,
+as he gazed up at the towering rocks, and round the green shores, and
+onward past point and opening bend, miles away into the heart of the
+country; yet with no lessening of the glorious stream before him and
+no decrease of promise in the bold and luxuriant shores. Picture him
+lying at anchor below Newburgh with the dark pass of the Wey-Gat
+frowning behind him, the lofty and blue Catskills beyond, and the
+hillsides around covered with lords of the soil exhibiting only less
+wonder than friendliness."
+
+If Willis forgot the season of the year and left out the landscape
+glow which the voyager saw, Talmage completed the picture in a rainbow
+paragraph of color: "Along our river and up and down the sides of the
+great hills there was an indescribable mingling of gold, and orange
+and crimson and saffron, now sobering into drab and maroon, now
+flaring up into solferino and scarlet. Here and there the trees looked
+as if their tips had blossomed into fire. In the morning light the
+forests seemed as if they had been transfigured and in the evening
+hours they looked as if the sunset had burst and dropped upon the
+leaves. It seemed as if the sea of divine glory had dashed its surf to
+the top of the crags and it had come dripping down to the lowest leaf
+and deepest cavern."
+
+       * * *
+
+  So fair yon haven clasped its isles, in such a sunset gleam,
+  When Hendrick and his sea-worn tars first sounded up the stream.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+On such a day in 1883 it was the privilege of the writer to stand
+before 150,000 people at Newburgh on the occasion of the Centennial
+Celebration of the Disbanding of the Army under Washington, and, in
+his poem entitled "The Long Drama," to portray the great mountain
+background bounding the southern horizon with autumnal splendor:
+
+  October lifts with colors bright
+    Her mountain canvas to the sky,
+  The crimson trees aglow with light
+    Unto our banners wave reply.
+
+  Like Horeb's bush the leaves repeat
+    From lips of flame with glory crowned:--
+  "Put off thy shoes from off thy feet,
+    The place they trod is holy ground."
+
+Such was the vision Hendrick Hudson must have had in those far-off
+September and October days, and such the picture which visitors still
+compass long distances to behold.
+
+"It is a far cry to Loch Awe" says an old Scottish proverb, and it
+is a long step from the sleepy rail of the "Half Moon" to the
+roomy-decked floating palaces--the "Hendrick Hudson," the "New York"
+and the "Albany." Before beginning our journey let us, therefore,
+bridge the distance with a few intermediate facts, from 1609, relating
+to the discovery of the river, its early settlement, its old reaches
+and other points essential to the fullest enjoyment of our trip, which
+in sailor-parlance might be styled "a gang-plank of history," reaching
+as it does from the old-time yacht to the modern steamer, and spanning
+three hundred years.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The prow of the "Half-Moon" has left a broadening wake whose
+    ripples have written an indelible history, not only along the
+    Hudson's shores, but have left their imprint on kingdoms over the
+    sea.
+
+    _William Wait._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Its Discovery.=--In the year 1524, thirty-two years after the
+discovery of America, the navigator Verrazano, a French officer,
+anchored off the island of Manhattan and proceeded a short distance up
+the river. The following year, Gomez, a Portuguese in the employ of
+Spain, coasted along the continent and entered the Narrows. Several
+sea-rovers also visited our noble bay about 1598, but it was reserved
+for Hendrick Hudson, with a mixed crew of eighteen or twenty men in
+the "Half Moon," to explore the river from Sandy Hook to Albany, and
+carry back to Europe a description of its beauty. He had previously
+made two fruitless voyages for the Muscovy Company--an English
+corporation--in quest of a passage to China, _via_ the North Pole and
+Nova Zembla.
+
+In the autumn of 1608 he was called to Amsterdam, and sailed from
+Texel, April 5, 1609, in the service of the Dutch East India Company.
+Reaching Greenland he coasted southward, arriving at Cape Cod August
+6th, Chesapeake Bay August 28th, and then sailed north to Sandy Hook.
+He entered the Bay of New York September the 3d, passed through the
+Narrows, and anchored in what is now called Newark Bay; on the 12th
+resumed his voyage, and, drifting with the tide, remained over night
+on the 13th about three miles above the northern end of Manhattan
+Island; on the 14th sailed through what is now known as Tappan Zee and
+Haverstraw Bay, entered the Highlands and anchored for the night near
+the present dock of West Point. On the morning of the 15th beheld
+Newburgh Bay, reached Catskill on the 16th, Athens on the 17th,
+Castleton and Albany on the 18th, and sent out an exploring boat as
+far as Waterford. He became thoroughly satisfied that this route did
+not lead to China--a conclusion in harmony with that of Champlain,
+who, the same summer, had been making his way south, through Lake
+Champlain and Lake George, in quest of the South Sea.
+
+       * * *
+
+    O mighty river of the North! Thy lips meet ocean here, and in deep
+    joy he lifts his great white brow, and gives his stormy voice a
+    milder tone.
+
+    _William Wallace_
+
+       * * *
+
+There is something humorous in the idea of these old mariners
+attempting to sail through a continent 3,000 miles wide, seamed with
+mountain chains from 2,000 to 15,000 feet in height. Hudson's return
+voyage began September 23d. He anchored again in Newburgh Bay the
+25th, arrived at Stony Point October 1st, reached Sandy Hook the 4th,
+and returned to Europe.
+
+=First Description of the Hudson.=--The official record of the voyage
+was kept by Robert Juet, mate of the "Half Moon," and his journal
+abounds with graphic and pleasing incidents as to the people and their
+customs. At the Narrows the Indians visited the vessel, "clothed in
+mantles of feathers and robes of fur, the women clothed in hemp; red
+copper tobacco pipes, and other things of copper, they did wear about
+their necks." At Yonkers they came on board in great numbers. Two were
+detained and dressed in red coats, but they sprang overboard and swam
+away. At Catskill they found "a very loving people, and very old men.
+They brought to the ship Indian corn, pumpkins and tobaccos." Near
+Schodack the "Master's mate went on land with an old savage, governor
+of the country, who carried him to his house and made him good
+cheere." "I sailed to the shore," he writes, "in one of their canoes,
+with an old man, who was chief of a tribe, consisting of forty men and
+seventeen women. These I saw there in a house well constructed of oak
+bark, and circular in shape, so that it has the appearance of being
+built with an arched roof. It contained a large quantity of corn and
+beans of last year's growth, and there lay near the house, for the
+purpose of drying, enough to load three ships, besides what was
+growing in the fields. On our coming to the house two mats were spread
+out to sit upon, and some food was immediately served in well-made
+wooden bowls."
+
+"Two men were also dispatched at once, with bows and arrows in quest
+of game, who soon brought in a pair of pigeons, which they had shot.
+They likewise killed a fat dog, (probably a black bear), and skinned
+it in great haste, with shells which they had got out of the water."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Down whose waterways the wings of poetry and romance like magic
+    sails bear the awakened souls of men.
+
+    _Richard Burton._
+
+       * * *
+
+The well-known hospitality of the Hudson River valley has, therefore,
+"high antiquity" in this record of the garrulous writer. At Albany the
+Indians flocked to the vessel, and Hudson determined to try the chiefs
+to see "whether they had any treachery in them." "So they took them
+down into the cabin, and gave them so much wine and _aqua vitae_ that
+they were all merry. In the end one of them was drunk, and they could
+not tell how to take it." The old chief, who took the _aqua vitae_,
+was so grateful when he awoke the next day, that he showed them all
+the country, and gave them venison.
+
+Passing down through the Highlands the "Half Moon" was becalmed near
+Stony Point and the "people of the Mountains" came on board and
+marvelled at the ship and its equipment. One canoe kept hanging under
+the stern and an Indian pilfered a pillow and two shirts from the
+cabin windows. The mate shot him in the breast and killed him. A boat
+was lowered to recover the articles "when one of them in the water
+seized hold of it to overthrow it, but the cook seized a sword and cut
+off one of his hands and he was drowned." At the head of Manhattan
+Island the vessel was again attacked. Arrows were shot and two more
+Indians were killed, then the attack was renewed and two more were
+slain.
+
+It might also be stated that soon after the arrival of Hendrick Hudson
+at the mouth of the river one of the English soldiers, John Coleman,
+was killed by an arrow shot in the throat. "He was buried," according
+to Ruttenber, "upon the adjacent beach, the first European victim of
+an Indian weapon on the Mahicanituk. Coleman's point is the monument
+to this occurrence."
+
+The "Half Moon" never returned and it will be remembered that Hudson
+never again saw the river that he discovered. He was to leave his name
+however as a monument to further adventure and hardihood in Hudson's
+Bay, where he was cruelly set adrift by a mutinous crew in a little
+boat to perish in the midsummer of 1611.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The sea just peering the headlands through
+  Where the sky is lost in deeper blue.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Names of the Hudson.=--The Iroquois called the river the "Cohatatea."
+The Mahicans and Lenapes the "Mahicanituk," or "the ever-flowing
+waters." Verrazano in 1524 styled it Rio de Montaigne. Gomez in 1525
+Rio San Antonio. Hudson styled it the "Manhattes" from the tribe at
+its mouth. The Dutch named it the "Mauritius," in 1611, in honor of
+Prince Maurice of Nassau, and afterwards "the Great River." It has
+also been referred to as the "Shatemuck" in verse. It was called
+"Hudson's River" not by the Dutch, as generally stated, but by the
+English, as Hudson was an Englishman, although he sailed from a Dutch
+port, with a Dutch crew, and a Dutch vessel. It was also called the
+"North River," to distinguish it from the Delaware, the South River.
+It is still frequently so styled, and the East River almost "boxes the
+compass" as applied to Long Island Sound.
+
+=Height of Hills and Mountains.=--It is interesting to hear the
+opinions of different people journeying up and down the Hudson as to
+the height of mountains along the river. The Palisades are almost
+always under-estimated, probably on account of their distance from
+the steamer. It is only when we consider the size of a house at their
+base, or the mast of a sloop anchored near the shore, that we can
+fairly judge of their magnitude. Various guides, put together in a day
+or a month, by writers who have made a single journey, or by persons
+who have never consulted an authority, have gone on multiplying
+blunder upon blunder, but the United States Geological Survey
+furnishes reliable information. According to their maps the Palisades
+are from 300 to 500 feet in height, the Highlands from 785 to 1625,
+and the Catskills from 3000 to 3885 feet.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beneath the cliffs the river steals
+    In darksome eddies to the shore,
+  But midway every sail reveals
+    Reflected on its crystal floor.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+        THE PALISADES.
+
+    At Fort Lee                     300 feet.
+    Opposite Mt. St. Vincent        400  "
+    Opposite Hastings               500  "
+
+
+        THE HIGHLANDS.
+
+    Sugar Loaf                      785 feet.
+    Dunderberg                      865  "
+    Anthony's Nose                  900  "
+    Storm King                     1368  "
+    Old Cro' Nest                  1405  "
+    Bull Hill                      1425  "
+    South Beacon                   1625  "
+
+
+        THE CATSKILLS.
+
+    North Mountain                 3000 feet.
+    Plaaterkill                    3135  "
+    Outlook                        3150  "
+    Stoppel Point                  3426  "
+    Round Top                      3470  "
+    High Peak                      3660  "
+    Sugar Loaf                     3782  "
+    Plateau                        3855  "
+
+=Sources of the Hudson.=--The Hudson rises in the Adirondacks, and
+is formed by two short branches. The northern branch (17 miles in
+length), has its source in Indian Pass, at the base of Mount McIntyre;
+the eastern branch, in a little lake poetically called the "Tear of
+the Clouds," 4,321 feet above the sea under the summit of Tahawus,
+the noblest mountain of the Adirondacks, 5,344 feet in height. About
+thirty miles below the junction it takes the waters of Boreas River,
+and in the southern part of Warren County, nine miles east of Lake
+George, the tribute of the Schroon. About fifteen miles north of
+Saratoga it receives the waters of the Sacandaga, then the streams of
+the Battenkill and the Walloomsac; and a short distance above Troy its
+largest tributary, the Mohawk. The tide rises six inches at Troy and
+two feet at Albany, and from Troy to New York, a distance of one
+hundred and fifty miles, the river is navigable by large steamboats.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Of grottoes in the far dim woods,
+    Of pools moss-rimmed and deep,
+  From whose embrace the little rills
+    In daring venture creep.
+
+  _E.A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+The principal streams which flow into the Hudson between Albany and
+New York are the Norman's Kill, on west bank, two miles south of
+Albany; the Mourdener's Kill, at Castleton, eight miles below Albany,
+on the east bank; Coxsackie Creek, on west bank, seventeen miles below
+Albany; Kinderhook Creek, six miles north of Hudson; Catskill Creek,
+six miles south of Hudson; Roeliffe Jansen's Creek, on east bank,
+seven miles south of Hudson; the Esopus Creek, which empties at
+Saugerties; the Rondout Creek, at Rondout; the Wappingers, at New
+Hamburgh; the Fishkill, at Matteawan, opposite Newburgh; the Peekskill
+Creek, and Croton River. The course of the river is nearly north and
+south, and drains a comparatively narrow valley.
+
+It is emphatically the "River of the Mountains," as it rises in the
+Adirondacks, flows seaward east of the Helderbergs, the Catskills, the
+Shawangunks, through twenty miles of the Highlands and along the base
+of the Palisades. More than any other river it preserves the character
+of its origin, and the following apostrophe from the writer's poem,
+"The Hudson," condenses its continuous "mountain-and-lake-like"
+quality:
+
+  O Hudson, mountain-born and free,
+    Thy youth a deep impression takes,
+  For, mountain-guarded to the sea,
+    Thy course is but a chain of lakes.
+
+=The First Settlement of the Hudson.=--In 1610 a Dutch ship visited
+Manhattan to trade with the Indians and was soon followed by others
+on like enterprise. In 1613 Adrian Block came with a few comrades and
+remained the winter. In 1614 the merchants of North Holland organized
+a company and obtained from the States General a charter to trade in
+the New Netherlands, and soon after a colony built a few houses and
+a fort near the Battery. The entire island was purchased from the
+Indians in 1624 for the sum of sixty guilders or about twenty-four
+dollars. A fort was built at Albany in 1623 and known as Fort Aurania
+or Fort Orange. From Wassenaer's "Historie van Europa," 1621-1632, as
+translated in the 3d volume of the Documentary History of New York, a
+castle--Fort Nassau--was built in 1624, on an island on the north side
+of the River Montagne, now called Mauritius. "But as the natives there
+were somewhat discontented, and not easily managed, the projectors
+abandoned it, intending now to plant a colony among the Maikans
+(Mahicans), a nation lying twenty-five miles (American measure
+seventy-five miles) on both sides of the river, upwards." In another
+document we learn that "The West India Company being chartered, a
+vessel of 130 lasts, called the 'New Netherland' (whereof Cornelius
+Jacobs, of Hoorn, was skipper), with thirty families, mostly Walloons,
+was equipped in the spring of 1623."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where Manhattan reigned of old
+  Long before the age of gold
+  In the fair encircled isle
+  Formed for beauty's warmest smile.
+
+  _William Crow_
+
+       * * *
+
+In the beginning of May they entered the Hudson, found a "Frenchman"
+lying in the mouth of the river, who would erect the arms of the King
+of France there, but the Hollanders would not permit him, opposing it
+by commission from the Lord's States General and the Directors of the
+West India Company, and "in order not to be frustrated therein, they
+convoyed the Frenchman out of the rivers." This having been done, they
+sailed up the Maikans, 140 miles, near which they built and completed
+a fort, named "Orange," with four bastions, on an island, by them
+called "Castle Island." This was probably the island below Castleton,
+now known as Baern Island, where the first white child was born on the
+Hudson.
+
+In another volume we read that "a colony was planted in 1625 on
+the Manhetes Island, where a fort was staked out by Master Kryn
+Fredericke, an engineer. The counting-house is kept in a stone
+building thatched with reed; the other houses are of the bark of
+trees. There are thirty ordinary houses on the east side of the river,
+which runs nearly north and south." This is the description of New
+York City when Charles the First was King.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Behold the natural advantages of our State; the situation
+    of our principal seaport; the facility that the
+    Sound affords for an intercourse with the East, and the
+    noble Hudson which bears upon its bosom the wealth
+    of the remotest part of the State.
+
+    _Robert R. Livingston._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+[Illustration: OLOFFE VAN KORTLANDT'S DREAM.]
+
+Moreover, we should not forget that Communipaw outranks New York in
+antiquity, and, according to Knickerbocker, whose quiet humor is
+always read and re-read with pleasure, might justly be considered the
+Mother Colony. For lo! the sage Oloffe Van Kortlandt dreamed a dream,
+and the good St. Nicholas came riding over the tops of the trees,
+and descended upon the island of Manhattan and sat himself down
+and smoked, "and the smoke ascended in the sky, and formed a cloud
+overhead; and Oloffe bethought him, and he hastened and climbed up to
+the top of one of the tallest trees, and saw that the smoke spread
+over a great extent of country; and, as he considered it more
+attentively, he fancied that the great volume assumed a variety of
+marvelous forms, where, in dim obscurity, he saw shadowed out palaces
+and domes and lofty spires, all of which lasted but a moment, and then
+passed away." So New York, like Alba Longa and Rome, and other cities
+of antiquity, was under the immediate care of its tutelar saint. Its
+destiny was foreshadowed, for now the palaces and domes and lofty
+spires are real and genuine, and something more than dreams are made
+of.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Below the cliffs Manhattan's spires
+    Glint back the sunset's latest beam;
+  The bay is flecked with twinkling fires;
+    Or is it but "Van Kortlandt's dream?"
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Original Manors and Patents.=--According to a map of the Province
+of New York, published in 1779, the Phillipsburg Patent embraced a
+large part of Westchester County. North of this was the Manor of
+Cortland, reaching from Tarrytown to Anthony's Nose. Above this
+was the Phillipse Patent, reaching to the mouth of Fishkill Creek,
+embracing Putnam County. Between Fishkill Creek and the Wappingers
+Creek was the Rombout Patent. The Schuyler Patent embraced a few
+square miles in the vicinity of Poughkeepsie. Above this was the
+purchase of Falconer & Company, and east of this tract what was known
+as the Great Nine Partners. Above the Falconer Purchase was the Henry
+Beekman Patent, reaching to Esopus Island, and east of this the Little
+Nine Partners. Above the Beekman Patent was the Schuyler Patent. Then
+the Manor of Livingston, reaching from Rhinebeck to Catskill Station,
+opposite Catskill. Above this Rensselaerwick, reaching north to a
+point opposite Coeymans. The Manor of Rensselaer extended on both
+sides of the river to a line running nearly east and west, just above
+Troy. North and west of this Manor was the County of Albany, since
+divided into Rensselaer, Saratoga, Washington, Schoharie, Greene and
+Albany. The Rensselaer Manor was the only one that reached across the
+river. The west bank of the Hudson, below the Rensselaer Manor, is
+simply indicated on this map of 1779 as Ulster and Orange Counties.
+
+=New Amsterdam.=--For about fifty years after the Dutch Settlement the
+island of Manhattan was known as New Amsterdam. Washington Irving, in
+his Knickerbocker History, has surrounded it with a loving halo and
+thereby given to the early records of New York the most picturesque
+background of any State in the Union.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The city bright below, and far away
+  Sparkling in golden light his own romantic Bay.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+Among other playful allusions to the Indian names he takes the word
+Manna-hatta of Robert Juet to mean "the island of manna," or in other
+words a land flowing with milk and honey. He refers humorously to the
+Yankees as "an ingenious people who out-bargain them in the market,
+out-speculate them on the exchange, out-top them in fortune, and run
+up mushroom palaces so high that the tallest Dutch family mansion has
+not wind enough left for its weather-cock."
+
+What would the old burgomaster think now of the mounting palaces of
+trade, stately apartments, and the piled up stories of commercial
+buildings? In fact the highest structure Washington Irving ever saw in
+New York was a nine-story sugar refinery. With elevators running two
+hundred feet a minute, there seems no limit to these modern mammoths.
+
+=The Dutch and the English.=--From the very beginning there was a
+quiet jealousy between the Dutch Settlement on the Hudson and the
+English Settlers in Massachusetts. To quote from an old English
+history, "it was the original purpose of the Pilgrims to locate near
+Nova Scotia, but, upon better consideration, they decided to seat
+themselves more to the southward on the bank of Hudson's River which
+falls into the sea at New York."
+
+To this end "they contracted with some merchants who were willing
+to be adventurers with them in their intended settlement and were
+proprietors of the country, but the contract bore too heavy upon them,
+and made them the more easy in their disappointment. Their agents in
+England hired the Mayflower, and, after a stormy voyage, 'fell in with
+Cape Cod on the 9th of November. Here they refreshed themselves about
+half a day and then tacked about to the southward for Hudson's River.'
+
+"Encountering a storm they became entangled in dangerous shoals and
+breakers and were driven back again to the Cape." Thus Plymouth became
+the first English settlement of New England. Another historian says
+that it was their purpose "to settle on the Connecticut Coast near
+Fairfield County, lying between the Connecticut and Hudson's River."
+
+       * * *
+
+          Before his sight
+  Flowed the fair river free and bright,
+  The rising mist and Isles of Bay,
+  Before him in their glory lay.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+From the very first the Dutch occupation was considered by the English
+as illegal. It was undoubtedly part of the country the coasts of which
+were first viewed by Sebastian Cabot, who sailed with five English
+ships from Bristol in May, 1498, and as such was afterwards included
+in the original province of Virginia. It was also within the limits of
+the country granted by King James to the Western Company, but, before
+it could be settled, the Dutch occupancy took place, and, in the
+interest of peace, a license was granted by King James.
+
+The Dutch thus made their settlement before the Puritans were planted
+in New England, and from their first coming, "being seated in Islands
+and at the mouth of a good river their plantations were in a thriving
+condition, and they begun, in Holland, to promise themselves vast
+things from their new colony."
+
+Sir Samuel Argal in 1617 or 1618, on his way from Virginia to New
+Scotland, insulted the Dutch and destroyed their plantations. "To
+guard against further molestations they secured a License from
+King James to build Cottages and to plant for traffic as well as
+subsistence, pretending it was only for the conveniency of their ships
+touching there for fresh water and fresh provisions in their voyage
+to Brazil; but they little by little extended their limits every way,
+built Towns, fortified them and became a flourishing colony."
+
+"In an island called Manhattan, at the mouth of Hudson's River, they
+built a City which they called New Amsterdam, and the river was called
+by them the Great River. The bay to the east of it had the name of
+Nassau given to it. About one hundred and fifty miles up the River
+they built a Fort which they called Orange Fort and from thence drove
+a profitable trade with the Indians who came overland as far as from
+Quebec to deal with them."
+
+The Dutch Colonies were therefore in a very thriving condition when
+they were attacked by the English. The justice of this war has been
+freely criticised even by English writers, "because troops were sent
+to attack New Amsterdam before the Colony had any notice of the war."
+
+       * * *
+
+                      On his view
+  Ocean, and earth, and heaven burst before him,
+    Clouds slumbering at his feet and the clear blue
+  Of summer's sky in beauty bending o'er him.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+The "Encyclopaedia Britannica" thus briefly puts the history of those
+far-off days when New York was a town of about 1500 inhabitants: "The
+English Government was hostile to any other occupation of the New
+World than its own. In 1621 James I. claimed sovereignty over New
+Netherland by right of 'occupancy.' In 1632 Charles I. reasserted the
+English title of 'first discovery, occupation and possession.' In 1654
+Cromwell ordered an expedition for its conquest and the New England
+Colonies had engaged their support. The treaty with Holland arrested
+their operations and recognized the title of the Dutch. In 1664
+Charles the Second resolved upon a conquest of New Netherland. The
+immediate excuse was the loss to the revenue of the English Colonies
+by the smuggling practices of their Dutch neighbors. A patent was
+granted to the Duke of York giving to him all the lands and rivers
+from the west side of the Connecticut River to the east side of
+Delaware Bay."
+
+"On the 29th of August an English Squadron under the direction of Col.
+Richard Nicolls, the Duke's Deputy Governor, appeared off the Narrows,
+and on Sept. 8th New Amsterdam, defenseless against the force, was
+formally surrendered by Stuyvesant. In 1673 (August 7th) war being
+declared between England and Holland a Dutch squadron surprised New
+York, captured the City and restored the Dutch authority, and the
+names of New Netherland and New Amsterdam. But in July, 1674, a treaty
+of peace restored New York to English rule. A new patent was issued to
+the Duke of York, and Major Edmund Andros was appointed Governor."
+
+=New York.=--On the 10th of November, 1674, the Province of New
+Netherland was surrendered to Governor Major Edmund Andros on behalf
+of his Britannic Majesty. The letter sent by Governor Andros to the
+Dutch Governor is interesting in this connection: "Being arrived
+to this place with orders to receive from you in the behalf of his
+Majesty of Great Britain, pursuant to the late articles of peace with
+the States Generals of the United Netherlands, the New Netherlands and
+Dependencies, now under your command, I have herewith, by Capt. Philip
+Carterett and Ens. Caesar Knafton, sent you the respective orders from
+the said States General, the States of Zealand and Admirality of
+Amsterdam to that effect, and desire you'll please to appoint some
+short time for it. Our soldiers having been long aboard, I pray you
+answer by these gentlemen, and I shall be ready to serve you in what
+may lay in my power. Being from aboard his Majesty's ship, 'The
+Diamond,' at anchor near. Your very humble servant. Staten Island this
+22d Oct., 1674." After nineteen days' deliberation, which greatly
+annoyed Governor Andros, New Amsterdam was transferred from Dutch to
+English authority.
+
+       * * *
+
+  All white with sails thy keel-thronged waters flee
+  Through one rich lapse of plenty to the sea.
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+"In 1683 Thomas Dongan succeeded Andros. A general Assembly, the first
+under the English rule, met in October, 1683, and adopted a Charter
+of Liberties, which was confirmed by the Duke. In August, 1684, a new
+covenant was made with the Iroquois, who formally acknowledged the
+jurisdiction of Great Britain, but not subjection. By the accession of
+the Duke of York to the English throne the Duchy of New York became a
+royal province. The Charters of the New England Colonies were revoked,
+and together with New York and New Jersey they were consolidated into
+the dominion of New England. Dongan was recalled and Sir Edmund Andros
+was commissioned Governor General. He assumed his vice regal authority
+August 11, 1688. The Assembly which James had abolished in 1686 was
+reestablished, and in May declared the rights and privileges of
+the people, reaffirming the principles of the repealed Charter of
+Liberties of October 30, 1683."
+
+       * * *
+
+  "Queen of all lovely rivers, lustrous queen
+  Of flowing waters in our sweet new lands,
+  Rippling through sunlight to the ocean sands."
+
+  _Anonymous._
+
+       * * *
+
+From this time on to the Revolution of 1776 there is one continual
+struggle between the Royal Governors and the General Assembly. The
+Governor General had the power of dissolving the Assembly, but
+the Assembly had the power of granting money. British troops were
+quartered in New York which increased the irritation. The conquest of
+Canada left a heavy burden upon Great Britain, a part of which their
+Parliament attempted to shift to the shoulders of the Colonies.
+
+A general Congress of the Colonies, held in New York in 1765,
+protested against the Stamp Act and other oppressive ordinances and
+they were in part repealed.
+
+=A Page of Patriotism.=--During the long political agitation New York,
+the most English of the Colonies in her manners and feelings, was in
+close harmony with the Whig leaders of England. She firmly adhered to
+the principle of the sovereignty of the people which she had inscribed
+on her ancient "Charter of Liberties." Although largely dependent upon
+commerce she was the first to recommend a non-importation of English
+merchandise as a measure of retaliation against Britain, and she was
+the first also to invite a general congress of all the Colonies.
+On the breaking out of hostilities New York immediately joined the
+patriot cause. The English authority was overthrown and the government
+passed to a provincial congress.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The union of lakes--the union of lands--
+    The union of States none can sever--
+  The union of hearts--the union of hands--
+    And the Flag of our Union forever.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+=New York Sons of Liberty.=--In 1767, in the eighth year of the reign
+of George III. there was issued a document in straightforward Saxon,
+and Sir Henry Moore, Governor-in-Chief over the Province of New York,
+offered fifty pounds to discover the author or authors. The paper read
+as follows: "Whereas, a glorious stand for Liberty did appear in
+the Resentment shown to a Set of Miscreants under the Name of Stamp
+Masters, in the year 1765, and it is now feared that a set of Gentry
+called Commissioners (I do not mean those lately arrived at Boston),
+whose odious Business is of a similar nature, may soon make their
+appearance amongst us in order to execute their detestable office:
+It is therefore hoped that every votary of that celestial Goddess
+Liberty, will hold themselves in readiness to give them a proper
+welcome. Rouse, my Countrymen, Rouse! (Signed) _Pro Patria_."
+
+In December, 1769, a stirring address "To the Betrayed Inhabitants of
+the City and County of New York," signed by a Son of Liberty, was
+also published, asking the people to do their duty in matters pending
+between them and Britain. "Imitate," the writer said, "the noble
+examples of the friends of Liberty in England; who, rather than be
+enslaved, contend for their rights with king, lords and commons;
+and will you suffer your liberties to be torn from you by your
+Representatives? tell it not in Boston; publish it not in the streets
+of Charles-town. You have means yet left to preserve a unanimity
+with the brave Bostonians and Carolinians; and to prevent the
+accomplishment of the designs of tyrants."
+
+Another proclamation, offering a reward of fifty pounds, was
+published by the "Honorable Cadwalader Colden, Esquire, His Majesty's
+Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Province of New York
+and the territories depending thereon in America," with another "God
+Save the King" at the end of it. But the people who commenced to write
+Liberty with a capital letter and the word "king" in lower case type
+were not daunted. Captain Alexander McDougal was arrested as
+the supposed author. He was imprisoned eighty-one days. He was
+subsequently a member of the Provincial Convention, in 1775 was
+appointed Colonel of the first New York Regiment, and in 1777 rose to
+the rank of Major-General in the U. S. Army. New York City could well
+afford a monument to the Sons of Liberty. She has a right to emphasize
+this period of her history, for her citizens passed the first
+resolution to import nothing from the mother country, burned ten boxes
+of stamps sent from England before any other colony or city had made
+even a show of resistance, and when the Declaration was read, pulled
+down the leaden statue of George III. from its pedestal in Bowling
+Green, and moulded it into Republican bullets.
+
+       * * *
+
+  And not a verdant glade or mountain hoary,
+  But treasures up within the glorious story.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+In 1699 the population of New York was about 6,000. In 1800, it
+reached 60,000; and the growth since that date is almost incredible.
+It is amusing to hear elderly people speak of the "outskirts of the
+city" lying close to the City Hall, and of the drives _in the country_
+above Canal Street. In the Documentary History of New York, a map of
+a section of New York appears as it was in 1793, when the Gail, Work
+House, and Bridewell occupied the site of the City Hall, with two
+ponds to the north--East Collect Pond and Little Collect Pond,--sixty
+feet deep and about a quarter of a mile in diameter, the outlet of
+which crossed Broadway at Canal Street and found its way to the
+Hudson.
+
+=Greater New York.=--In 1830, the population of Manhattan was 202,000;
+in 1850, 515,000; in 1860, 805,000; in 1870, 942,000; in 1880,
+1,250,000; in 1892, 1,801,739; and is now rapidly approaching three
+million. Brooklyn, which in 1800 had a population of only 2,000, now
+contributes, as the "Borough of Brooklyn," almost two million. So that
+Greater New York is the centre of about six million of people within a
+radius of fifteen miles including her New Jersey suburbs with almost
+five millions under one municipality.
+
+=Brooklyn.=--In June, 1636, was bought the first land on Long Island;
+and in 1667 the Ferry Town, opposite New York, was known by the name
+"Breuckelen," signifying "broken land," but the name was not generally
+accepted until after the Revolution. Columbia Heights, Prospect Park,
+Clinton Avenue, St. Mark's Place and Stuyvesant Heights are among the
+favored spots for residence.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Behind us lies the teeming town
+    With lust of gold grown frantic;
+  Before us glitters o'er the bay
+    The peaceable Atlantic.
+
+  _Charles Mackay_
+
+       * * *
+
+=Jersey City= occupies the ground once known as Paulus Hook, the farm
+of William Kieft, Director General of the Dutch West India Company.
+Its water front, from opposite Bartholdi Statue to Hoboken, is
+conspicuously marked by Railroad Terminal Piers, Factories, Elevators,
+etc. Bergen is the oldest settlement in New Jersey. It was founded in
+1616 by Dutch Colonists to the New Netherlands, and received its name
+from Bergen in Norway. Jersey City is practically a part of Greater
+New York, but state lines make municipal union impossible.
+
+=Hudson River Steamboats.=--An accurate history of the growth and
+development of steam navigation on the Hudson, from the building of
+the "Clermont" by Robert Fulton to the building of the superb steamers
+of the Hudson River Day Line would form a very interesting book. The
+first six years produced six steamers:
+
+      Clermont, built in 1807          160 tons
+      Car of Neptune, built in 1809    295  "
+      Hope, built in 1811              280  "
+      Perseverance, built in 1811      280  "
+      Paragon, built in 1811           331  "
+      Richmond, built in 1813          370  "
+
+It makes one smile to read the newspaper notices of those days. The
+time was rather long, and the fare rather high--thirty-six hours to
+Albany, fare seven dollars.
+
+    _From the Albany Gazette, September, 1807._
+
+    "The North River Steamboat will leave Paulus Hook Ferry on Friday
+    the 4th of September, at 9 in the morning, and arrive at Albany
+    at 9 in the afternoon on Saturday. Provisions, good berths, and
+    accommodation are provided. The charge to each passenger is as
+    follows:
+
+      To Newburg        Dols. 3,     Time 14 hours.
+         Poughkeepsie     "   4,       "  17  "
+         Esopus           "   5,       "  20  "
+         Hudson           "   51/2,      "  30  "
+         Albany           "   7,       "  36  "
+
+    For places apply to Wm. Vandervoort, No. 48 Courtland street, on
+    the corner of Greenwich street, September 2d, 1807."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The wind blew over the land and the waves
+    With its salt sea-breath, and a spicy balm,
+  And it seemed to cool my throbbing brain,
+    And lend my spirit its gusty calm.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+    _Extract from the New York Evening Post, October 2, 1807._
+
+    Mr. Fulton's new-invented steamboat, which is fitted up in a neat
+    style for passengers, and is intended to run from New York to
+    Albany as a packet, left here this morning with ninety passengers,
+    against a strong head wind. Notwithstanding which, it is judged
+    that she moved through the waters at the rate of six miles an
+    hour.
+
+    _Extract from the Albany Gazette, October 5th, 1807._
+
+    Friday, October 2d, 1807, the steamboat (Clermont) left New York
+    at ten o'clock a.m., against a stormy tide, very rough water, and
+    a violent gale from the north. She made a headway beyond the most
+    sanguine expectations, and without being rocked by the waves.
+
+    Arrived at Albany, October 4th, at 10 o'clock p.m., being detained
+    by being obliged to come to anchor, owing to a gale and having one
+    of her paddle wheels torn away by running foul of a sloop.
+
+       * * *
+
+  But see! the broadening river deeper flows,
+  Its tribute floods intent to reach the sea.
+
+  _Park Benjamin._
+
+       * * *
+
+The following was recently recopied in the _Poughkeepsie Eagle_, as an
+old time reminiscence:
+
+    =To Poughkeepsie from New York in Seventeen Hours.=
+
+    --The first steamboat on the Hudson River passed Poughkeepsie
+    August 17th, 1807, and in June, 1808, the owners of the boat
+    caused the following advertisement to be published in prominent
+    papers along the river:
+
+    =STEAMBOAT.=
+
+    FOR THE INFORMATION OF THE PUBLIC.
+
+    The Steamboat will leave New York for Albany every Saturday
+    afternoon exactly at 6 o'clock, and will pass:
+
+      West Point, about 4 o'clock Sunday morning.
+      Newburgh, 7 o'clock Sunday morning.
+      Poughkeepsie, 11 o'clock Sunday morning.
+      Esopus, 2 o'clock in the afternoon.
+      Red Hook, 4 o'clock in the afternoon.
+      Catskill, 7 o'clock in the afternoon.
+      Hudson, 8 o'clock in the evening.
+
+    She will leave Albany for New York every Wednesday morning exactly
+    at 8 o'clock, and pass:
+
+      Hudson, about 3 in the afternoon.
+      Esopus, 8 in the evening.
+      Poughkeepsie, 12 at night.
+      Newburgh, 4 Thursday morning.
+      West Point, 7 Thursday morning.
+
+    As the time at which the boat may arrive at the different places
+    above mentioned may vary an hour, more or less, according to the
+    advantage or disadvantage of wind and tide, those who wish to
+    come on board will see the necessity of being on the spot an hour
+    before the time. Persons wishing to come on board from any other
+    landing than these here specified can calculate the time the boat
+    will pass and be ready on her arrival. Innkeepers or boatmen who
+    bring passengers on board or take them ashore from any part of the
+    river will be allowed one shilling for each person.
+
+    PRICES OF PASSAGE--FROM NEW YORK.
+
+      To West Point               $2 30
+      To Newburgh                  3 00
+      To Poughkeepsie              3 50
+      To Esopus                    4 00
+      To Red Hook                  4 50
+      To Hudson                    5 00
+      To Albany                    7 00
+
+          FROM ALBANY.
+
+      To Hudson                   $2 00
+      To Red Hook                  3 00
+      To Esopus                    3 50
+      To Poughkeepsie              4 00
+      To Newburgh and West Point   4 50
+      To New York                  7 00
+
+    All other passengers are to pay at the rate of one dollar for
+    every twenty miles, and a half dollar for every meal they may eat.
+
+    Children from 1 to 5 years of age to pay one-third price and to
+    sleep with persons under whose care they are.
+
+    Young persons from 5 to 15 years of age to pay half price,
+    provided they sleep two in a berth, and the whole price for each
+    one who requests to occupy a whole berth.
+
+    Servants who pay two-thirds price are entitled to a berth; they
+    pay half price if they do not have a berth.
+
+    Every person paying full price is allowed sixty pounds of baggage;
+    if less than full price forty pounds. They are to pay at the rate
+    of three cents per pound for surplus baggage. Storekeepers who
+    wish to carry light and valuable merchandise can be accommodated
+    on paying three cents a pound.
+
+       * * *
+
+  By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise
+    At every turn the vision looks upon;
+  Till to our wondering and uplifted eyes
+    The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Day Line Steamers.=--As the cradle of successful steam navigation was
+rocked on the Hudson, it is fitting that the Day Line Steamers should
+excel all others in beauty, grace and speed. There is no comparison
+between these river palaces and the steamboats on the Rhine or any
+river in Europe, as to equipment, comfort and rapidity. To make
+another reference to the great tourist route of Europe, the distance
+from Cologne to Coblenz is 60 miles, the same as from New York to
+Newburgh. It takes the Rhine steamers from seven to eight hours (as
+will be seen in Baedeker's Guide to that river) going up the stream,
+and from four and a half to five hours returning with the current. The
+Hudson by Daylight steamers en route to Albany make the run from New
+York to Newburgh in three hours; to Poughkeepsie in four hours, making
+stops at Yonkers, West Point and Newburgh. Probably no train on the
+best equipped railroad in our country reaches its stations with
+greater regularity than these steamers make their various landing.
+It astonishes a Mississippi or Missouri traveler to see the captain
+standing like a train-conductor, with watch in hand, to let off the
+gang-plank and pull the bell, at the very moment of the advertised
+schedule.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Southward the river gleams--a snowy sail
+    Now gliding o'er the mirror--now a track
+  Tossing with foam displaying on its course
+    The graceful steamer with its flag of smoke.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+One of the most humorous incidents of the writer's journeying up and
+down the Hudson, was the "John-Gilpin-experience" of a western man who
+got off at West Point a few years ago. It was at that time the first
+landing of the steamer after leaving New York.
+
+As he was accustomed to the Mississippi style of waiting at the
+various towns he thought he would go up and take a look at the "hill."
+The boat was off and "so was he"; with wife and children shaking their
+hands and handkerchiefs in an excited manner from the gang-plank. Some
+one at the stern of the steamer shouted to him to cross the river and
+take the train to Poughkeepsie.
+
+Every one was on the lookout for him at the Poughkeepsie landing, and,
+just as the steamer was leaving the dock, he came dashing down Main
+street from the railroad station, but too late. Then not only wife
+and children but the entire boat saluted him and the crowded
+deck blossomed with handkerchiefs. Some one shouted "catch us at
+Rhinebeck." After leaving Rhinebeck the train appeared, and on passing
+the steamer, a lone handkerchief waved from the rear of the platform.
+At Hudson an excited but slightly disorganized gentleman appeared
+to the great delight of his family, and every one else, for the
+passengers had all taken a lively interest in the chase. "Well," he
+says, "I declare, the way this boat lands, and gets off again, beats
+anything I ever see, and I have lived on the Mississippi nigh on to a
+quarter of a century."
+
+       * * *
+
+    While drinking in the scene, my mind goes back upon
+    the tide of years, and lo, a vision! On its upward
+    path the "Half-Moon" glides.
+
+    _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The "Hendrick Hudson."= In these centennial days of discovery
+and invention, a description of the steamers will be of interest,
+furnished by the Hudson River Day Line. The "Hendrick Hudson" was
+built at Newburgh by the Marvel Company, under contract with the W.
+& A. Fletcher Company of New York, who built her engines, and under
+designs from Frank E. Kirby. Her principal dimensions are: length, 400
+feet; breadth over all, 82 feet; depth of hold, 14 feet 5 inches, and
+a draft of 7 feet 6 inches. Her propelling machinery is what is
+known as the 3-cylinder compound direct acting engine, and her power
+(6,500-horse) is applied through side wheels with feathering buckets,
+and steam is supplied from eight boilers.
+
+Steel has been used in her construction to such an extent that her
+hull, her bulk-heads (7 in all), her engine and boiler enclosures, her
+kitchen and ventilators, her stanchions, girders, and deck beams, and
+in fact the whole essential frame work of the boat is like a great
+steel building. Where wood is used it is hard wood, and in finish
+probably has no equal in marine work.
+
+Her scheme of decoration, ventilation and sanitation is as artistic
+and scientific as modern methods can produce, and at the same time
+her general lay out for practical and comfortable operation is the
+evolution of the long number of years in which the Day Line has been
+conducting the passenger business.
+
+A detailed account of this steamer would be a long story, but some of
+the salient features are as follows: She carries the largest passenger
+license ever issued, namely: for 5,000 people; on her trial trip she
+made the fastest record through the water of any inland passenger ship
+in this country, namely: 23.1 miles per hour. Her shafts are under the
+main deck. Her mural paintings represent prominent features of the
+Hudson, which may not be well seen from the steamer. Her equipment far
+exceeds the requirements of the Government Inspection Laws.
+
+       * * *
+
+  We hear the murmur of the sea,--
+    A monotone of sadness,
+  But not a whisper of the crowd,
+    Or echo of its madness.
+
+  _Charles Mackay._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The "New York."= The hull of the "New York" was built at Wilmington,
+Del., by the Harlan & Hollingsworth Co., in 1887, and is, with the
+exception of the deck-frame, made of iron throughout. During the
+winter of 1897 she was lengthened 30 feet, and now measures 341 feet
+in length, breadth over all 74 feet, with a tonnage of 1975 gross
+tons. The engine was built by the W. & A. Fletcher Co. of New York.
+It is a standard American beam engine, with a cylinder 75 inches in
+diameter and 12 feet stroke of piston, and develops 3,850 horse power.
+Steam steering gear is used. One of the most admirable features of
+this queen of river steamers is her "feathering" wheels, the use of
+which not only adds materially to her speed but does away with the
+jar or tremor common to boats having the ordinary paddle-wheels. The
+exterior of the "New York" is, as usual, of pine, painted white and
+relieved with tints and gold. The interior is finished in hard-wood
+cabinet work, ash being used forward of the shaft on the main deck,
+and mahogany aft and in the dining-room. Ash is also used in the grand
+saloons on the promenade deck. One feature of these saloons especially
+worthy of note, is the number and size of the windows, which are so
+numerous as to almost form one continuous window. Seated in one of
+these elegant saloons as in a floating palace of glass, the tourist
+who prefers to remain inside enjoys equally with those outside the
+unrivalled scenery through which the steamer is passing. The private
+parlors on the "New York" are provided with bay windows and are
+very luxuriantly furnished. In the saloons are paintings by Albert
+Bierstadt, J. F. Cropsey, Walter Satterlee and David Johnson. The
+dining-room on the "New York" is located on the main deck, aft; a
+feature that will commend itself to tourists, since while enjoying
+their meals they will not be deprived from viewing the noble scenery
+through which the steamer is passing. While the carrying capacity of
+the "New York" is 4,500 passengers, license for 2,500 only is applied
+for, thus guaranteeing ample room for all and the absence from
+crowding which is so essential to comfort.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Thy fate and mine are not repose,
+  And ere another evening close
+  Thou to thy tides shall turn again
+  And I to seek the crowd of men.
+
+  _William Cullen Byrant._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The "Albany"= was built by the Harlan & Hollingsworth Co., of
+Wilmington, Del., in 1880. During the winter of 1892, she was
+lengthened thirty feet and furnished with modern feathering wheels
+in place of the old style radial ones. Her hull is of iron, 325 feet
+long, breadth of beam over all 75 feet, and her tonnage is 1,415 gross
+tons. Her engine was built by the W. & A. Fletcher Co., of New York,
+and develops 3,200 horse power. The stroke is 12 feet, and the
+diameter of the cylinder is 73 inches. On her trial trip she ran from
+New York to Poughkeepsie, a distance of 75 miles, in three hours and
+seven minutes. Steam steering gear is used on the "Albany," thus
+insuring ease and precision in handling her. The wood-work on the main
+deck and in the upper saloons is all hard wood; mahogany, ash and
+maple tastefully carved. Wide, easy staircases lead to the main saloon
+and upper decks. Rich Axminster carpets cover the floors, and mahogany
+tables and furniture of antique design and elegant finish make up the
+appointments of a handsomely furnished drawing room.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Lose not a memory of the glorious scenes,
+  Mountains and palisades, and leaning rocks.
+
+  _William Wallace._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Old Reaches.=--Early navigators divided the Hudson into fourteen
+"reaches" or distances from point to point as seen by one sailing up
+or down the river. In the slow days of uncertain sailing vessels these
+divisions meant more than in our time of "propelling steam," but they
+are still of practical and historic interest.
+
+The Great Chip Rock Reach extends from above Weehawken about eighteen
+miles to the boundary line of New York and New Jersey--(near
+Piermont). The Palisades were known by the old Dutch settlers as the
+"Great Chip," and so styled in the Bergen Deed of Purchase, viz, the
+great chip above Weehawken. The _Tappan_ Reach (on the east side of
+which dwelt the Manhattans, and on the west side the Saulrickans and
+the Tappans), extends about seven miles to Teller's Point. The
+third reach to a narrow point called _Haverstroo_; then comes the
+_Seylmaker's_ Reach, then _Crescent_ Reach; next _Hoge's_ Reach, and
+then _Vorsen_ Reach, which extends to Klinkersberg, or Storm King,
+the northern portal of the Highlands. This is succeeded by _Fisher's_
+Reach where, on the east side once dwelt a race of savages called
+Pachami. "This reach," in the language of De Laet, "extends to another
+narrow pass, where, on the west, is a point of land which juts out,
+covered with sand, opposite a bend in the river, on which another
+nation of savages--the Waoranecks--have their abode at a place called
+Esopus. Next, another reach, called _Claverack_; then _Backerack;_
+next _Playsier_ Reach, and _Vaste_ Reach, as far as Hinnenhock; then
+_Hunter's_ Reach, as far as Kinderhook; and Fisher's Hook, near Shad
+Island, over which, on the east side, dwell the Mahicans." If these
+reaches seem valueless at present there are
+
+=Five Divisions of the Hudson=--which possess interest for all, as
+they present an analysis easy to be remembered--divisions marked by
+something more substantial than sentiment or fancy, expressing five
+distinct characteristics:--
+
+1. THE PALISADES, an unbroken wall of rock for fifteen
+miles--GRANDEUR.
+
+2. THE TAPPAN ZEE, surrounded by the sloping hills of Nyack,
+Tarrytown, and Sleepy Hollow--REPOSE.
+
+3. THE HIGHLANDS, where the Hudson for twenty miles plays "hide and
+seek" with "hills rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun"--SUBLIMITY.
+
+4. THE HILLSIDES for miles above and below Poughkeepsie--THE
+PICTURESQUE.
+
+5. THE CATSKILLS, on the west, throned in queenly dignity--BEAUTY.
+
+       * * *
+
+                On the deck
+  Stands the bold Hudson, gazing at the sights
+  Opening successive--point and rock and hill,
+  Majestic mountain-top, and nestling vale.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+=SUGGESTIONS.=
+
+From the Hurricane Deck of the Hudson River Day Line Steamers can
+be seen, on leaving or approaching the Metropolis, one of the most
+interesting panoramas in the world--the river life of Manhattan,
+the massive structures of Broadway, the great Transatlantic docks,
+Recreation Piers, and an ever-changing kaleidoscope of interest. The
+view is especially grand on the down trip between the hours of five
+and six in the afternoon, as the western sun brings the city in strong
+relief against the sky. If tourists wish to fully enjoy this beautiful
+view they should remain on the Hurricane Deck until the boat is well
+into her Desbrosses Street slip.
+
+=The Brooklyn Annex.=--The Brooklyn tourist is especially happy in
+this delightful preface and addenda to the Hudson River trip. The
+effect of morning and evening light in bringing out or in subduing the
+sky-line of Manhattan is nowhere seen to greater advantage. In the
+morning the buildings from the East River side stand out bold and
+clear, when lo! almost instantaneously, on turning the Battery, they
+are lessened and subdued. On the return trip in the evening, the
+effect is reversed--a study worth the while of the traveler as he
+passes to and fro on the commodious "Annex" between Desbrosses
+Street Pier and Brooklyn. Surely no other city in the world rises so
+beautiful from harbor line or water front as "Greater New York," with
+lofty outlines of the boroughs of Manhattan and Brooklyn reminding one
+of Scott's tribute to Edinburgh:
+
+  "Piled deep and massy, close and high,
+  Mine own romantic town!"
+
+       * * *
+
+    Down at the end of the long, dark street,
+      Years, years ago,
+    I sat with my sweetheart on the pier,
+      Watching the river flow.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: STATUE OF LIBERTY]
+
+
+
+
+=NEW YORK TO ALBANY.=
+
+
+=Desbrosses Street Pier to Forty-Second Street.=
+
+Our historic journey fittingly begins at Desbrosses Street, for here,
+near the old River-front, extending from Desbrosses along Greenwich,
+stood the Revolutionary line of breastworks reaching south to the
+Grenadier Battery at Franklin Street. Below this were "Jersey,"
+"McDougall" and "Oyster" batteries and intervening earthworks to Port
+George, on the Battery, which stood on the site of old Fort Amsterdam,
+carrying us back to Knickerbocker memories of Peter Stuyvesant and
+Wowter Van Twiller. The view from the after-deck, before the steamer
+leaves the pier, gives scope for the imagination to re-picture the
+far-away primitive and heroic days of early New York.
+
+=Desbrosses Street Pier.=--On leaving the lower landing a charming
+view is obtained of New York Harbor, the Narrows, Staten Island, the
+Bartholdi Statue of Liberty, and, in clear weather, far away to the
+South, the Highlands of Nevisink, the first land to greet the eye
+of the ocean voyager. As the steamer swings out into the stream the
+tourist is at once face to face with a rapidly changing panorama.
+Steamers arriving, with happy faces on their decks, from southern
+ports or distant lands; others with waving handkerchiefs bidding
+good-bye to friends on crowded docks; swift-shuttled ferry-boats, with
+hurrying passengers, supplying their homespun woof to the great warp
+of foreign or coastwise commerce; noisy tug-boats, sombre as dray
+horses, drawing long lines of canal boats, or proud in the convoy of
+some Atlantic greyhound that has not yet slipped its leash; dignified
+"Men of War" at anchor, flying the flags of many nations, happy
+excursion boats _en route_ to sea-side resorts, scows, picturesque
+in their very clumsiness and uncouthness--all unite in a living
+kaleidescope of beauty.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Rise, stately symbol! Holding forth
+    Thy light and hope to all who sit
+  In chains and darkness! Belt the earth
+    With watch-fires from thy torch uplit!
+
+  _John Greenleaf Whittier._
+
+       * * *
+
+Across the river on the Jersey Shore are seen extensive docks of great
+railways, with elevators and stations that seem like "knotted ends"
+of vast railway lines, lest they might forsooth, untwist and become
+irrecoverably tangled in approaching the Metropolis. Prominent among
+these are the _Pennsylvania Railroad_ for the South and West; the
+_Erie Railway_, the _Delaware, Lackawanna and Western_, and to the
+North above Hoboken the _West Shore_, serving also as starting point
+for the _New York, Ontario and Western_. Again the eye returns to
+the crowded wharves and warehouses of New York, reaching from Castle
+Garden beyond 30th Street, with forest-like masts and funnels of ocean
+steamships, and then to prominent buildings mounting higher and higher
+year by year along the city horizon, marking the course of Broadway
+from the Battery, literally fulfilling the humor of Knickerbocker
+in not leaving space for a breath of air for the top of old Trinity
+Church spire.
+
+=Stevens' Castle.=--About midway between Desbrosses Street and 42d
+Street Pier will be seen on the Jersey Shore a wooded point with
+sightly building, known as Stevens' Castle, home of the late Commodore
+Stevens, founder of the Stevens Institute of Technology. Above this
+are the Elysian Fields, near the river bank, known in early days as a
+quiet resort but now greatly changed in the character of its visitors.
+On the left will also be seen the dome and tower of St. Michael's
+Monastery, and above this Union Hill.
+
+=The Trap Rock Ridge=, which begins to show itself above the Elysian
+Fields, increases gradually in height to the brow of the Palisades.
+West of Bergen Heights and Union Hill flows the Hackensack River
+parallel to the Hudson, and at this point only about two miles
+distant.
+
+       * * *
+
+  How still with all her towers and domes
+    The city sleeps on yonder shore,--
+  How many thousand happy homes
+    Yon starless sky is bending o'er.
+
+  _Park Benjamin._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Forty-Second Street to One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth.=
+
+=The 42d Street Pier= is now at hand, convenient of access to
+travelers, as the 42d Street car line crosses Manhattan intersecting
+every "up and down" surface, subway or elevated road in the City,
+as does also the Grand, Vestry and Desbrosses Street at the lower
+landing. While passengers are coming aboard we take pleasure in
+quoting the following from Baedeker's Guide to the United States: "The
+Photo-Panorama of the Hudson, published by the Bryant Union Publishing
+Co., New York City (price 50 cents), shows both sides of the river
+from New York to Albany, accurately represented from 800 consecutive
+photographs. This new and complete object-guide will be of service
+to the tourist, and can be had at the steamers' news stands, head of
+grand stairway, or it will be sent by publishers, postpaid, on receipt
+of price."
+
+=Weehawken= with its sad story of the duel between Hamilton and Burr
+is soon seen upon the west bank. A monument once marked the spot,
+erected by the St. Andrews Society of New York City on the ledge of
+rock where Hamilton fell early in the morning of the eleventh of July,
+1804. The quarrel between this great statesman and his malignant rival
+was, perhaps, more personal than political. It is said that Hamilton,
+in accordance with the old-time code of honor, accepted the challenge,
+but fired into the air, while Burr with fiendish cruelty took
+deliberate revenge. Burr was never forgiven by the citizens of New
+York and from that hour walked its streets shunned and despised. Among
+the many poetic tributes penned at the time to the memory of Hamilton,
+perhaps the best was by a poet whose name is now scarcely remembered,
+Mr. Robert C. Sands. A fine picture of Hamilton will be found in the
+New York Chamber of Commerce where the writer was recently shown the
+following concise paragraph from Talleyrand: "The three greatest men
+of my time, in my opinion, were Napoleon Bonaparte, Charles James Fox
+and Alexander Hamilton and the greatest of the three was Hamilton."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where round yon capes the banks ascend
+  Long shall the pilgrim's footsteps bend,
+  There, mirthful heart shall pause to sigh,
+  There tears shall dim the patriot's eye.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+The plain marble slab which stood in the face of the monument is still
+preserved by a member of the King family. It is thirty-six inches
+long by twenty-six and a half inches wide and bears the following
+inscription: "As an expression of their affectionate regard to his
+Memory and their deep regret for his loss, the St. Andrew's Society of
+the State of New York have erected this Monument."
+
+Quite a history attaches to this stone (graphically condensed by
+an old gardener of the King estate): "It stood in the face of the
+monument for sixteen years, and was read by thousands, but by 1820 the
+pillar had become an eyesore to the enlightened public sentiment of
+the age, and an agitation was begun in the public prints for its
+removal. It was not, however, organized effort, but the order of one
+man, that at length demolished the pillar. This man was Captain Deas,
+a peace-loving gentleman, strongly opposed to duelling and brawls,
+and on seeing a party approaching the grounds often interposed and
+sometimes succeeded in effecting a reconciliation. He became tired of
+seeing the pillar in his daily walks, and, in 1820, ordered his men to
+remove it and deposit the slab containing the inscription in one
+of the outbuildings of the estate. This was done. But a few months
+afterward the slab was stolen, and nothing more was heard of it until
+thirteen years later, when Mr. Hugh Maxwell, president of the St.
+Andrew's Society, discovered it in a junk shop in New York. He at once
+purchased it and presented it to Mr. James G. King, who about this
+time came into possession of the Deas property, where it has since
+been carefully preserved."
+
+This mansion of Captain Deas afterward known as the "King House on the
+Cliff" was a stately residence where Washington Irving used to come
+and dream of his fair Manhattan across the river. It was also the
+head-quarters of Lafayette, after the battle of Brandywine.
+
+       * * *
+
+    I was an admirer of General Hamilton, and I sicken
+    when I think of our political broils, slanders and enmities.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+The gardener also said: "the river road beneath us is cut directly
+through the spot. Originally it was simply a narrow and grassy shelf
+close up under the cliffs, six feet wide and eleven paces long. A
+great cedar tree stood at one end, and this sandbowlder, which we have
+also preserved, was at the other. It was about twenty feet above
+the river and was reached by a steep rocky path leading up from the
+Hudson, and, as there was then no road or path even along the base
+of the cliffs, it could be reached only by boats." The first duel at
+Weehawken of which there is any record was in 1799, between Aaron Burr
+and John B. Church (Hamilton's brother-in-law). The parties met and
+exchanged shots; neither was wounded. The seconds then induced Church
+to offer an apology and the affair terminated. The last duel was
+fought there September 28, 1845, and ended in a farce, the pistols
+being loaded with cork--a fitting termination to a relic of barbarism.
+
+=Riverside Drive and Park.= Riverside Drive, on the east bank starting
+at 72d Street, is pronounced the finest residential avenue in the
+world. Distinguished among many noble residences is the home of
+Charles M. Schwab at 73d Street, which cost two million dollars; built
+on the New York Orphan Asylum plot for which he paid $860,000.
+
+=The Soldiers and Sailors Monument=, 89th Street, a memorial to the
+citizens of New York, who took part in the Civil War, a beautiful work
+of art, circular in form, with Corinthian columns, erected by the city
+at a cost of a quarter of million of dollars was dedicated May 30,
+1902. The corner-stone was laid in 1900 by President Roosevelt, at
+that time Governor. The location was well selected, and it presents
+one of the most attractive features of the river front.
+
+       * * *
+
+  We celebrate our hundredth year
+    With thankful hearts and words of praise,
+  And learn a lasting lesson here
+    Of trust and hope for coming days.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Columbia University=, on Morningside Heights, has a fine outlook,
+crowning a noble site worthy of the old college, whose sons have been
+to the fore since the days of the Revolution in promoting the glory
+of the state and the nation. President Low has happily styled
+"Morningside," which extends from 116th to 120th Streets, "The
+Acropolis of the new world." The Library Building which he erected to
+his father's memory, is of Greek architecture and cost $1,500,000. It
+contains 300,000 volumes and is open night and day to the public. It
+also marks the battle ground and American victory of Harlem Heights in
+1776.
+
+=The Cathedral of St. John the Divine= (Protestant Episcopal), now in
+process of erection, occupies three blocks from 110th Street to 113th
+between Morningside Park and Amsterdam Avenue. The corner stone was
+laid in 1892 to be completed about 1940 at a cost of $6,000,000. The
+crypt quarried out of the solid rock has been completed and services
+are held in it every Sunday. Near at hand will be seen the beautiful
+dome of St. Luke's Hospital.
+
+=Grant's Tomb=, Riverside Drive and 123d Street, has the most
+commanding site of the Hudson River front of New York. The bluff rises
+130 feet and still retains the name of Claremont. The apex of
+the memorial is 280 feet above the river. Ninety thousand people
+contributed to the "Grant Monument Association fund" which, with
+interest, aggregated $600,000. The corner stone was laid by President
+Harrison in 1892 and dedicated April 27, 1897, on the seventy-fifth
+anniversary of Grant's birth, with a great military, naval and civil
+parade. The occasion was marked by an address of President McKinley
+and an oration of Gen. Horace Porter, president of the Grant Monument
+Association.
+
+An attempt to remove Grant's body to Washington was made in Congress
+but overwhelmingly defeated. The speech by Congressman Amos Cummings
+in the House of Representatives, was a happy condensation of the
+facts. He fittingly said: "New York was General Grant's chosen home.
+He tried many other places but finally settled there. A house was
+given to him here in Washington, but he abandoned it in the most
+marked manner to buy one for himself in New York. He was a familiar
+form upon her streets. He presided at her public meetings and at all
+times took an active interest in her local affairs. He was perfectly
+at home there and was charmed with its associations. It was the spot
+on earth chosen by himself as the most agreeable to him; he meant to
+live and die there. It was his home when he died. He closed his career
+without ever once expressing a wish to leave it, but always to remain
+in it.
+
+"Men are usually buried at their homes. Washington was buried there;
+Lincoln was buried there; Garibaldi was buried there; Gambetta was
+buried there, and Ericsson was buried, not at the Capital of Sweden,
+but at his own home. Those who say that New York is backward in giving
+for any commendable thing either do not know her or they belie her.
+Wherever in the civilized world there has been disaster by fire or
+flood, or from earthquake or pestilence, she has been among the
+foremost in the field of givers and has remained there when others
+have departed. It is a shame to speak of her as parsimonious or as
+failing in any benevolent duty. Those who charge her with being
+dilatory should remember that haste is not always speed. It took more
+than a quarter of a century to erect Bunker Hill Monument; the ladies
+of Boston completed it. It took nearly half a century to erect a
+monument to George Washington in the City founded by him, named for
+him, and by his act made the Capital of the Nation; the Government
+completed it. New York has already shown that she will do far better
+than this."
+
+* * *
+
+  His glory as the centuries wide,
+    His honor bright as sunlit seas,
+  His lullaby the Hudson tide,
+    His requiem the whispering breeze.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Thirteen Elm Trees=, about ten or fifteen minutes' walk from
+General Grant's Tomb, were planted by Alexander Hamilton in his
+door-yard, a century ago, to commemorate the thirteen original States.
+This property was purchased by the late Hon. Orlando Potter, of New
+York, with the following touch of patriotic sentiment: "These
+famous trees are located in the northeast corner of One Hundred and
+Forty-third street and Convent Avenue; or, on lots fourteen and
+fifteen," said the auctioneer to the crowd that gathered at the sale.
+"In order that the old property with the trees may be kept unbroken,
+should the purchaser desire, we will sell lots 8 to 21 inclusive in
+one batch! How much am I offered?" "One hundred thousand dollars,"
+quietly responded Mr. Potter. A ripple of excitement ran through the
+crowd, and the bid was quickly run up to $120,000 by speculators. "One
+hundred and twenty-five thousand," said Mr. Potter. Then there were
+several thousand dollar bids, and the auctioneer said: "Do I hear
+one hundred and thirty?" Mr. Potter nodded. He nodded again at the
+"thirty-five" and "forty" and then some one raised him $250. "Five
+hundred," remarked Mr. Potter, and the bidding was done. "Sold for
+$140,500!" cried the auctioneer. Mr. Potter smiled and drew his check
+for the amount. "I can't say what I will do with the property," said
+Mr. Potter. "You can rest assured, however, that the trees will not be
+cut down."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Rest in peace by stately rivers martyred soldiers of the free,
+  Rest brave captain, at our threshold, where the Hudson meets the sea.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Edgewater=, opposite Grant's Tomb on the west bank, lies between
+Undercliff on the north and Shadyside on the south. The latter place
+was made historic by Anthony Wayne's capture of supplies for the
+American army in the summer of 1780 which formed the basis of a
+satirical poem by Major Andre, entitled ="The Cow Chase."=
+
+The steamer is now approaching 129th street, and we turn again with
+pride to the beautiful tomb of General Grant which fittingly marks one
+point of a great triangle of fame--the heroic struggle of the American
+soldiers in 1776, the home of Alexander Hamilton, and the burial place
+of the greatest soldier of the Civil War.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Woodman, spare that tree!
+    Touch not a single bough!
+  In youth it sheltered me,
+    And I will protect it now.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+=One Hundred and Twenty-Ninth Street to Yonkers.=
+
+This upper landing of the Hudson River Day Line has a beautiful
+location and is a great convenience to the dwellers of northern
+Manhattan. On leaving the pier the steel-arched structure of
+Riverside Drive is seen on the right. The valley here spanned, in the
+neighborhood of 127th Street, was once known as "Marritje Davids'
+Fly," and the local name for this part of New York above Claremont
+Heights is still known as "Manhattanville." The Convent of the Sacred
+Heart is visible among the trees, and
+
+=Trinity Cemetery's Monuments= soon gleam along the wooded bank. Among
+her distinguished dead is the grave of General John A. Dix whose words
+rang across the land sixty days before the attack on Fort Sumter:
+"If any man attempts to pull down the American flag shoot him on the
+spot." The John A. Dix Post of New York comes hither each Decoration
+Day and garlands with imposing ceremonies his grave and the graves of
+their comrades.
+
+Near Carmansville was the home of Audubon, the ornithologist, and the
+residences above the cemetery are grouped together as Audubon Park.
+Near at hand is the New York Institute for the Deaf and Dumb, and
+pleasantly located near the shore the River House once known as
+West-End Hotel.
+
+=Washington Heights= rise in a bold bluff above Jeffrey's Hook. After
+the withdrawal of the American army from Long Island, it became
+apparent to General Washington and Hamilton that New York would have
+to be abandoned. General Greene and Congress believed in maintaining
+the fort, but future developments showed that Washington was right.
+The American troops, so far as clothing or equipment was concerned,
+were in a pitiable condition, and the result of the struggle makes one
+of the darkest pages of the war. On the 12th of November Washington
+started from Stony Point for Fort Lee and arrived the 13th, finding
+to his disappointment that General Greene, instead of having made
+arrangements for evacuating, was, on the contrary, reinforcing Fort
+Washington. The entire defense numbered only about 2000 men, mostly
+militia, with hardly a coat, to quote an English writer, "that was not
+out at the elbows." "On the night of the 14th thirty flat-bottomed
+boats stole quietly up the Hudson, passed the American forts
+undiscovered, and made their way through Spuyten Duyvil Creek into
+Harlem River. The means were thus provided for crossing that river,
+and landing before unprotected parts of the American works."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Faith's pioneers and Freedom's martyrs sleep
+  Beneath their shade: and under their old boughs
+  The wise and brave of generations past
+  Walked every Sabbath to the house of God.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to Irving, "On the 15th General Howe sent a summons to
+surrender, with a threat of extremities should he have to carry the
+place by assault." Magaw, in his reply, intimated a doubt that General
+Howe would execute a threat "so unworthy of himself and the British
+nation; but give me leave," added he, "to assure his Excellency, that,
+actuated by the most glorious cause that mankind ever fought in, I am
+determined to defend this post to the very last extremity."
+
+"Apprised by the colonel of his peril, General Greene sent over
+reinforcements, with an exhortation to him to persist in his
+defense; and dispatched an express to General Washington, who was at
+Hackensack, where the troops from Peekskill were encamped. It was
+nightfall when Washington arrived at Fort Lee. Greene and Putnam were
+over at the besieged fortress. He threw himself into a boat, and had
+partly crossed the river, when he met those Generals returning. They
+informed him of the garrison having been reinforced, and assured him
+that it was in high spirits, and capable of making a good defense. It
+was with difficulty, however, they could prevail on him to return with
+them to the Jersey shore, for he was excessively excited."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Hark! Freedom's arms ring far and wide;
+    Again these forts with beacons gleam;
+  Loud cannon roar on every side--
+    I start, I wake; I did but dream.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+"Early the next morning, Magaw made his dispositions for the expected
+attack. His forces, with the recent addition, amounted to nearly three
+thousand men. As the fort could not contain above a third of its
+defenders, most of them were stationed about the outworks."
+
+About noon, a heavy cannonade thundered along the rocky hills, and
+sharp volleys of musketry, proclaimed that the action was commenced.
+
+"Washington, surrounded by several of his officers, had been an
+anxious spectator of the battle from the opposite side of the Hudson.
+Much of it was hidden from him by intervening hills and forest; but
+the roar of cannonry from the valley of the Harlem River, the sharp
+and incessant reports of rifles, and the smoke rising above the
+tree-tops, told him of the spirit with which the assault was received
+at various points, and gave him for a time hope that the defense might
+be successful. The action about the lines to the south lay open to
+him, and could be distinctly seen through a telescope; and nothing
+encouraged him more than the gallant style in which Cadwalader with
+inferior force maintained his position. When he saw him however,
+assailed in flank, the line broken, and his troops, overpowered by
+numbers, retreating to the fort, he gave up the game as lost. The
+worst sight of all, was to behold his men cut down and bayoneted by
+the Hessians while begging quarter. It is said so completely to have
+overcome him, that he wept with the tenderness of a child."
+
+"Seeing the flag go into the fort from Knyphausen's division, and
+surmising it to be a summons to surrender, he wrote a note to Magaw,
+telling him if he could hold out until evening and the place could
+not be maintained, he would endeavor to bring off the garrison in the
+night. Capt. Gooch, of Boston, a brave and daring man, offered to be
+the bearer of the note. He ran down to the river, jumped into a small
+boat, pushed over the river, landed under the bank, ran up to the fort
+and delivered the message, came out, ran and jumped over the broken
+ground, dodging the Hessians, some of whom struck at him with their
+pieces and others attempted to thrust him with their bayonets;
+escaping through them, he got to his boat and returned to Fort Lee."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Up and down the valley of the Hudson the contending
+    armies surged like the ebbing and flowing of the tides.
+
+    _William Wait._
+
+       * * *
+
+Washington's message arrived too late. "The fort was so crowded by
+the garrison and the troops which had retreated into it, that it was
+difficult to move about. The enemy, too, were in possession of the
+little redoubts around, and could have poured in showers of shells and
+ricochet balls that would have made dreadful slaughter." It was no
+longer possible for Magaw to get his troops to man the lines; he was
+compelled, therefore, to yield himself and his garrison prisoners of
+war. The only terms granted them were, that the men should retain
+their baggage and the officers their swords.
+
+=Fort Lee=, directly across the river, had a commanding position, but
+was entirely useless to the Revolutionary army after the fall of Fort
+Washington. It was therefore immediately abandoned to the British, as
+was also Fort Constitution, another redoubt near at hand.
+
+It will be remembered that the American army after long continued
+disaster in and about New York, retreated southward from Fort Lee and
+Hackensack to the Delaware, where Washington with a strategic stroke
+brought dismay on his enemies and restored confidence to his friends
+and the Patriots' Cause.
+
+=The Palisades, or Great Chip Rock=, as they were known by the old
+Dutch settlers, present the same bold front to the river that the
+Giant's Causeway does to the ocean. Their height at Fort Lee, where
+the bold cliffs first assert themselves, is three hundred feet, and
+they extend about seventeen or eighteen miles to the hills of Rockland
+County. A stroll along the summit reveals the fact that they are
+almost as broken and fantastic in form as the great rocks along the
+Elbe in Saxon-Switzerland.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Palisades in sterner pride
+  Tower as the gloom steals o'er the tide,
+  For the great stream a bulwark meet
+  That laves its rock-encumbered feet.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+As the basaltic trap-rock is one of the oldest geological formations,
+we might still appropriately style the Palisades "a chip of the old
+block." They separate the valley of the Hudson from the valley of the
+Hackensack. The Hackensack rises in Rockland Lake opposite Sing Sing,
+within two or three hundred yards of the Hudson, and the rivers flow
+thirty miles side by side. Some geologists think that originally they
+were one river, but they are now separated from each other by a wall
+more substantial than even the 2,000 mile structure of the "Heathen
+Chinee."
+
+It might also be interesting to note Prof. Newberry's idea that in
+pre-glacial times this part of the continent was several hundred feet
+higher than at present, and that the Hudson was a very rapid stream
+and much larger than now, draining as it did the Great Lakes: that the
+St. Lawrence found its way through the Hudson Channel following pretty
+nearly the line of the present Mohawk, and the great river emptied
+into the Atlantic some 80 miles south of Staten Island. This idea is
+confirmed by the soundings of the coast survey which discover the
+ancient page of the Hudson as here indicated on the floor of the sea
+far out where the ocean is 500 feet in depth. A speculation of what a
+voyager a few million years ago would have then seen might, however,
+as Hamlet observes, be "to consider somewhat too curiously" for
+ordinary up-to-date tourists. But even, granting all this to be true,
+the Palisades were already old, thrown up long ages before, between
+a rift in the earth's surface, where it cooled in columnar form.
+The rocky mould which held it, being of softer material, finally
+disintegrated and crumbled away, leaving the cliff with its peculiar
+perpendicular formation.
+
+A recent writer has said: "The Palisades are among the wonders of the
+world. Only three other places equal them in importance, but each of
+the four is different from the others, and the Palisades are unique.
+The Giant's Causeway on the north coast of Ireland, and the cliffs at
+Kawaddy in India, are thought by many to have been the result of the
+same upheaval of nature as the Palisades; but the Hudson rocks seem
+to have preserved their entirety--to have come up in a body, as it
+were--while the Giant's Causeway owes its celebrity to the ruined
+state in which the Titanic forces of nature have left it. The third
+wonder is at Staffa, in Scotland, where the rocks have been thrown
+into such a position as to justify the name of Fingal's Cave, which
+they bear, and which was bestowed on them in the olden times before
+Scottish history began to be written. It is singular how many of the
+names which dignify, or designate, favorite spots of the Giant's
+Causeway have been duplicated in the Palisades. Among the Hudson rocks
+are several 'Lady's Chairs,' 'Lover's Leaps,' 'Devil's Toothpicks,'
+'Devil's Pulpits,' and, in many spots on the water's edge, especially
+those most openly exposed to the weather, we see exactly the same
+conformations which excite admiration and wonder in the Irish rocks."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where the mighty cliffs look upward in their glory and their glow
+  I see a wondrous river in its beauty southward flow.
+
+  _Thomas C. Harbaugh._
+
+       * * *
+
+Under the base of these cliffs William Cullen Bryant one Sabbath
+morning wrote his beautiful lines:
+
+  "Cool shades and dews are round my way,
+  And silence of the early day;
+  Mid the dark rocks that watch his bed,
+  Glitters the mighty Hudson spread,
+  Unrippled, save by drops that fall
+  From shrubs that fringe his mountain wall;
+  And o'er the clear, still water swells
+  The music of the Sabbath bells.
+
+  All, save this little nook of land,
+  Circled with trees, on which I stand;
+  All, save that line of hills which lie
+  Suspended in the mimic sky--
+  Seems a blue void, above, below,
+  Through which the white clouds come and go;
+  And from the green world's farthest steep
+  I gaze into the airy deep."
+
+       * * *
+
+    A mellow sunset was settling upon the hills and
+    waters and a thousand flashes played over the distant
+    city as its spires and prominent objects caught its glow.
+
+    _N. P. Willis._
+
+       * * *
+
+There are many strange stories connected with the Palisades, and
+one narrator says: "remarkable disappearances have occurred in the
+vicinity that have never been explained. On a conical-shaped rock near
+Clinton Point a young man and a young woman were seen standing some
+half a century ago. Several of their friends, who were back some
+thirty feet from the face of the cliff, saw them distinctly, and
+called out to them not to approach too near the edge. The young couple
+laughingly sent some answer back, and a moment later vanished as by
+magic. Their friends rushed to the edge of the cliff but saw no trace
+of them. They noticed at once that the tide was out, and at the base
+three or four boatmen were sauntering about as though nothing had
+happened (forgetting even, as Bryant did, that a vertical line from
+the top of the cliff on account of the crumbling debris of ages makes
+it impossible for even the strongest arm to hurl a stone from the
+summit to the margin of the river). A diligent search was instituted.
+Friends and boatmen joined in the search, but from that day to this
+they have never been heard from, no trace of them has been found, and
+the mystery of their disappearance is as complete now as it was five
+minutes after they vanished--a more tragical termination than the
+story of the old pilot on a Lake George steamer, who, surrounded one
+morning by a group of tourist-questioners, pointed to Roger Slide
+Mountain, and said: "A couple went up there and never came back
+again." "What do you suppose, captain," said a fair-haired, anxious
+listener, "ever became of them?" "Can't tell," said the captain, "some
+folks said they went down on the other side.""
+
+The old Palisade Mountain House, a few miles above Fort Lee, had
+a commanding location, but was burned in 1884 and never rebuilt.
+Pleasant villas are here and there springing up along this rocky
+balcony of the lower Hudson, and probably the entire summit will some
+day abound in castles and luxuriant homes. It is in fact within the
+limit of possibility that this may in the future present the finest
+residential street in the world, with a natural macadamized boulevard
+midway between the Hudson and the sky.
+
+       * * *
+
+  What love yon cliffs and steeps could tell
+  If vocal made by Fancy's spell!
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+It grieves one to see the gray rocks torn away for building material,
+but, as fast as man destroys, nature kindly heals the wound; or to
+keep the Palisade figure more complete, she recaptures the scarred and
+broken battlements, unfolding along the steep escarpment her waving
+standards of green. It sometimes seems as if one can almost see her
+selecting the easiest point of attack, marshalling her forces, running
+her parallels with Boadicea-like skill, and carrying her streaming
+banners, more real than Macbeth's "Birnam-Wood" to crowning rampart
+and lofty parapet.
+
+The New York side from the Battery to Inwood, the northern end of
+Manhattan Island, is already "well peopled." Until recently the land
+about Fort Washington has been held in considerable tracts and
+the very names of these suburban points suggest altitude and
+outlook--Highbridgeville, Fordham Heights, Morris Heights, University
+Heights, Kingsbridge Heights, Mount Hope, &c. The growth of the city
+all the way to Jerome and Van Cortlandt's Park during the last few
+years has been marvelous. It has literally stepped over the Harlem to
+find room in the picturesque county of Westchester.
+
+=The Island of Manhattan.=--As we approach the northern limit of
+Manhattan we feel that in the preservation of the beautiful name
+"Manhattan," distinctive of New York's chief borough, Irving's dream
+has been happily realized. The meaning of this Indian word has been
+the subject of much discussion. It is, however, simply the name of a
+tribe. As the old historian De Laet says, "On the east side, on the
+main land dwell the Manhattoes," and again from the "Documentary
+History of New York." "It is so called from the people which inhabited
+the main land on the east side of the river."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Pleasant it is to lie amid the grass,
+    Under these shady locusts half the day,
+    Watching the ships reflected in the Bay,
+  Topmast and shroud, as in a wizard's glass.
+
+  _Thomas Bailey Aldrich._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN HEAD, PALISADES]
+
+The word Manhattan signifies also it is said: "The People of the
+Islands," and it was evidently used by the Indians as a generic term
+designating the inhabitants of the island itself, and also of Long
+Island and the Neversink. This is in accordance with the testimony of
+Van der Donck. With Irving we all recognize the music and poetry
+of the name and are proud that our river of beauty is so happily
+heralded.
+
+=Spuyten Duyvil Creek.=--Above Washington Heights, on the east bank,
+the _Spuyten Duyvil_ meets the Hudson. This stream is the northern
+boundary of New York Island, and a short distance east of the Hudson
+bears the name of Harlem River. Its course is southeast and joins the
+East River at Randall's Island, just above Hell Gate. It is a curious
+fact that this modest stream should be bounded by such suggestive
+appellations as Hell Gate and Spuyten Duyvil. This is the first point
+of special legendary interest to one journeying up the Hudson and it
+takes its name according to the veracious Knickerbocker, from the
+following incident: It seems that the famous Antony Van Corlear was
+despatched one evening with an important message up the Hudson. When
+he arrived at this creek the wind was high, the elements were in an
+uproar, and no boatman at hand. "For a short time," it is said, "he
+vapored like an impatient ghost upon the brink, and then, bethinking
+himself of the urgency of his errand, took a hearty embrace of his
+stone bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across _en
+spijt en Duyvil_ (in spite of the Devil), and daringly plunged into
+the stream. Scarce had he buffeted half way over when he was observed
+to struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of the waters.
+Instinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehement
+blast--sank forever to the bottom."
+
+       * * *
+
+  O legends full of life and health,
+    That live when records fail and die,
+  Ye are the Hudson's richest wealth,
+    The frondage of her history!
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+The main branch of the Hudson River Railroad, with its station at
+Forty-second Street and Fourth Avenue, crosses the Harlem River at
+Mott Haven, and, following its northern bank, meets the Hudson at this
+point, where the 30th Street branch, following the river, joins the
+main line. The steamer now passes Riverdale, with its beautiful
+residences and the Convent of Mount St. Vincent, one of the prominent
+landmarks of the Hudson, located on grounds bought of Edwin Forrest,
+the tragedian, whose "Font Hill Castle" appears in the foreground, and
+we come to
+
+=Yonkers=, on the east bank, seventeen miles from New York, at the
+mouth of the Nepperhan. West of the creek is a large rock, called
+A-mac-lea-sin, the great stone to which the Indians paid reverence as
+an evidence of the permanency and immutability of their deity. The
+Mahican Village at the mouth of the creek was called Nappechemak.
+European settlements were made as early as 1639, as shown by deeds of
+purchase. Here are many important manufacturing industries: carpet,
+silk, and hat factories; mowers and reapers, gutta percha, rubber and
+pencil companies. Its "Recreation Pavilion" on the pier was a noble
+thing for the city to build--costing $50,000. The structure is of
+steel and capable of accommodating 5,000 people.
+
+It is said that Yonkers derived its name from Yonk-herr--the young
+heir, or young sir, of the Phillipse manor. Until after the middle
+of the seventeenth century the Phillipse family had their principal
+residence at Castle Phillipse, Sleepy Hollow, but having purchased
+"property to the southward" from Adrian Van der Donck and obtained
+from the English king a patent creating the manor of Phillipsburgh,
+they moved from their old castle to the new "Manor Hall," which at
+this time was probably the finest mansion on the Hudson. This property
+was confiscated by act of Legislature in 1779, as Frederick Phillipse,
+third lord of the manor, was thought to lean toward royalty, and
+sold by the "Commissioners of Forfeiture" in 1785. It was afterwards
+purchased by John Jacob Astor, then passed to the Government, was
+bought by the village of Yonkers in 1868, and became the City Hall in
+1872. The older portion of the house was built in 1682, the present
+front in 1745. The woodwork is very interesting, also the ceilings,
+the large hall and the wide fire-place. In the room still pointed out
+as Washington's, the fire-place retains the old tiles, "illustrating
+familiar passages in Bible history," fifty on each side, looking as
+clear as if they were made but yesterday.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Once more I walk in the dark old street
+    Wearily to and fro:--
+  But I sit no more on the desolate pier
+    Watching the river flow.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+Mary Phillipse, belle of the neighborhood, and known in tradition as
+Washington's first love, was born in the "Manor House" July 3, 1730.
+Washington first met her on a visit to New York in 1756, after his
+return from Braddock's campaign, as guest of Beverly Robinson, who had
+married her elder sister.
+
+It has been claimed by some writers that he proposed and was rejected,
+but it is doubtful whether he ever was serious in his attentions.
+At least there is no evidence that he ever "told his love," and she
+finally married Col. Roger Morris, one of Washington's associates on
+Braddock's staff. The best part of residential Yonkers lies to the
+northward, beautifully embowered in trees as seen from the Hudson. A
+line of electric street cars run north along Warburton Avenue. The
+street known as Broadway, is a continuation of Broadway, New York.
+Many of the river towns still keep this name, probably prophetic as a
+part of the great Broadway which may extend some day from the Battery
+to Peekskill.
+
+Almost opposite Yonkers a ravine or sort of step-ladder cleft, now
+known as Alpine Gorge, reaches up the precipitous sides of the
+Palisades. The landing here was formerly called Closter's, from which
+a road zigzags to the top of the cliff and thence to Closter Village.
+Here Lord Grey disembarked in October, 1778, and crossed to Hackensack
+Valley, "surprising and massacring Col. Bayler's patriots, despite
+their surrender and calls for mercy."
+
+Indian Head (510 feet) about two miles north of Alpine Gorge, is the
+highest point of the Palisades.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Eve o'er our path is stealing fast;
+  Yon quivering splendors are the last;
+  His latest glories fringe the height
+  Behind us with their golden light.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Yonkers to West Point=
+
+Passing Glenwood, now a suburban station of Yonkers, conspicuous from
+the Colgate mansion near the river bank, built by a descendant of
+the English Colgates who were familiar friends of William Pitt, and
+leaders of the Liberal Club in Kent, England, and "Greystone," once
+the country residence of the late Samuel J. Tilden, Governor of New
+York, and presidential candidate in 1876, we come to
+
+=Hastings=, where a party of Hessians during the Revolutionary
+struggle were surprised and cut to pieces by troops under Colonel
+Sheldon. It was here also that Lord Cornwallis embarked for Fort Lee
+after the capture of Fort Washington, and here in 1850 Garibaldi,
+the liberator of Italy, whose centennial was observed July 4, 1907,
+frequently came to spend the Sabbath and visit friends when he was
+living at Staten Island. Although there is apparently little to
+interest in the village, there are many beautiful residences in the
+immediate neighborhood, and the Old Post road for two miles to the
+northward furnishes a beautiful walk or driveway, well shaded by old
+locust trees. The tract of country from Spuyten Duyvil to Hastings was
+called by the Indians Kekesick and reached east as far as the Bronx
+River.
+
+=Dobbs Ferry= is now at hand, named after an old Swedish ferryman. The
+village has not only a delightful location but it is also beautiful in
+itself. In 1781 it was Washington's headquarters, and the old house,
+still standing, is famous as the spot where General Washington and the
+Count de Rochambeau planned the campaign against Yorktown; where the
+evacuation of New York was arranged by General Clinton and Sir Guy
+Carleton the British commander, and where the first salute to the flag
+of the United States was fired by a British man-of-war. A deep glen,
+known as Paramus, opposite Dobbs Ferry, leads to Tappan and New
+Jersey. Cornwallis landed here in 1776. It is now known as Snedden's
+Landing.
+
+       * * *
+
+    A lovely country for a summer encampment, breezy
+    hills commanding wide prospects, shady valleys watered
+    by bright pastoral streams, the Bronx, the Spraine and
+    the Neperan.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+At Dobbs Ferry, June 14, 1894, the base-stone of a memorial shaft was
+laid with imposing ceremony by the New York State Society of the Sons
+of the American Revolution, which erected the monument. There were one
+thousand Grand Army veterans in line, and addresses by distinguished
+orators and visitors. The Society and its guests, including members
+of the cabinet, officers of the army and navy, and prominent men of
+various States, accompanied by full Marine Band of the navy yard, with
+a detachment of Naval Reserves, participated in the event.
+
+Voyagers up the river that day saw the "Miantonomoh" and the
+"Lancaster," under the command of Rear-Admiral Gherardi, anchored
+mid-stream to take part in the exercises. During the Revolution this
+historic house was leased by a Dutch farmer holding under Frederick
+Phillipse as landlord. After the war it was purchased by Peter
+Livingston and known since as the Livingston House. Arnold and Andre
+were to have met here but providentially for the American cause, the
+meeting took place at Haverstraw.
+
+The Indian name of Dobbs Ferry was Wecquaskeck, and it is said by
+Ruttenber that the outlines of the old Indian village can still be
+traced by numerous shell-beds. It was located at the mouth of Wicker's
+Creek which was called by the Indians Wysquaqua.
+
+=Tappan Zee.=--The steamer is now entering Irving's rich domain, and
+Tappan Zee lapping the threshold of "Sunnyside," seems almost a part
+of his very dooryard. The river, which has averaged about a mile in
+breadth, begins to gradually widen at Hastings, and almost seems like
+a gentle, reposeful lake.
+
+=Piermont=, whose "mile-long-pier," built many years ago by the Erie
+Railroad, hardly mars the landscape so great is the majesty of the
+river, is seen on the west bank with Tower Hill rising above it from
+which four states are seen. The view includes Long Island, the Sound
+and the Orange Mountains on the south, with the Catskills to the north
+and Berkshires to the northeast. Louis Gaylord Clark, a friend of
+Irving, and an early literary associate had a cottage on Piermont
+Hills.
+
+       * * *
+
+    We have a charming position for our French encampment
+    along the Hudson among rocks and under magnificent tulip trees.
+
+    _Count Dumas._
+
+       * * *
+
+Turning to the eastern shore, we see "Nuits," the Cottinet residence,
+Italian in style, built of Caen stone, "Nevis," home of the late Col.
+James Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamilton, the George L. Schuyler
+mansion, the late Cyrus W. Field's, and many pleasant places about
+Abbotsford, and come to
+
+=Irvington=, on the east bank, 24 miles from New York, once known as
+Dearman's, but changed in compliment to the great writer and lover of
+the Hudson, who after a long sojourn in foreign lands, returned to
+live by the tranquil waters of Tappan Zee. In a letter to his brother
+he refers to Sleepy Hollow as the favorite resort of his boyhood, and
+says: "The Hudson is in a manner my first and last love, and after
+all my wanderings and seeming infidelities, I return to it with
+a heartfelt preference over all the rivers of the world." As at
+Stratford-on-Avon every flower is redolent of Shakespeare, and at
+Melrose every stone speaks of Walter Scott, so here on every breeze
+floats the spirit of Washington Irving. A short walk of half a mile
+north from the station brings us to his much-loved
+
+="Sunnyside."= Irving aptly describes it in one of his stories as
+"made up of gable-ends, and full of angles and corners as an old
+cocked hat. It is said, in fact, to have been modeled after the hat of
+Peter the Headstrong, as the Escurial of Spain was fashioned after the
+gridiron of the blessed St. Lawrence." Wolfert's Roost, as it was once
+styled (Roost signifying Rest), took its name from Wolfert Acker, a
+former owner. It consisted originally of ten acres when purchased by
+Irving in 1835, but eight acres were afterwards added. With great
+humor Irving put above the porch entrance "George Harvey, Boum'r,"
+Boumeister being an old Dutch word for architect. A storm-worn
+weather-cock, "which once battled with the wind on the top of the
+Stadt House of New Amsterdam in the time of Peter Stuyvesant, erects
+his crest on the gable, and a gilded horse in full gallop, once the
+weather-cock of the great Van der Heyden palace of Albany, glitters in
+the sunshine, veering with every breeze, on the peaked turret over the
+portal."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Irving chose his residence in the valley, not amid
+    the mountains; by the fields and meadows of the broad
+    Tappan Zee, rather than the Highlands; in a congenial
+    region suited to his temperament.
+
+    _Dr. Bethune._
+
+       * * *
+
+About fifty years ago a cutting of Walter Scott's favorite ivy at
+Melrose Abbey was transported across the Atlantic, and trained over
+the porch of "Sunnyside," by the hand of Mrs. Renwick, daughter of
+Rev. Andrew Jeffrey of Lochmaben, known in girlhood as the "Bonnie
+Jessie" of Annandale, or the "Blue-eyed Lassie" of Robert Burns:--a
+graceful tribute, from the shrine of Waverley to the nest of
+Knickerbocker:
+
+  A token of friendship immortal
+    With Washington Irving returns:--
+  Scott's ivy entwined o'er his portal
+    By the Blue-eyed Lassie of Burns.
+
+Scott's cordial greeting at Abbotsford, and his persistence in getting
+Murray to reconsider the publication of the "Sketch Book," which he
+had previously declined, were never forgotten by Irving. It was during
+a critical period of his literary career, and the kindness of the
+Great Magician, in directing early attention to his genius, is still
+cherished by every reader of the "Sketch Book" from Manhattan to
+San Francisco. The hearty grasp of the Minstrel at the gateway of
+Abbotsford was in reality a warm handshake to a wider brotherhood
+beyond the sea.
+
+       * * *
+
+  In purple tints woven together
+    The Hudson shakes hands with the Tweed,
+  Commingling with Abbotsford's heather
+    The clover of Sunnyside's mead.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Washington Irving.=--While he was building "Sunnyside," a letter came
+from Daniel Webster, then Secretary of State, appointing him minister
+to Spain. It was unexpected and unsolicited, and Webster remarked that
+day to a friend: "Washington Irving to-day will be the most surprised
+man in America." Irving had already shown diplomatic ability in London
+in promoting the settlement of the "North Western Boundary," and his
+appointment was received with universal favor. Then as now Sunnyside
+was already a Mecca for travelers, and, among many well-known to fame,
+was a young man, afterwards Napoleon the Third. Referring to his
+visit, Irving wrote in 1853: "Napoleon and Eugenie, Emperor and
+Empress! The one I have had as a guest at my cottage, the other I have
+held as a pet child upon my knee in Granada. The last I saw of Eugenie
+Montijo, she was one of the reigning belles of Madrid; now, she is
+upon the throne, launched from a returnless shore, upon a dangerous
+sea, infamous for its tremendous shipwrecks. Am I to live to see the
+catastrophe of her career, and the end of this suddenly conjured up
+empire, which seems to be of such stuff as dreams are made of?
+I confess my personal acquaintance with the individuals in this
+historical romance gives me uncommon interest in it; but I consider
+it stamped with danger and instability, and as liable to extravagant
+vicissitudes as one of Dumas' novels." A wonderful prophecy completely
+fulfilled in the short space of seventeen years.
+
+       * * *
+
+    How many such men as Washington Irving are there
+    in America. God don't send many such spirits into this
+    world.
+
+    _Lord Byron._
+
+       * * *
+
+The aggregate sale of Irving's works when he received his portfolio
+to Spain was already more than half a million copies, with an equal
+popularity achieved in Britain. No writer was ever more truly loved
+on both sides of the Atlantic, and his name is cherished to-day in
+England as fondly as it is in our own country. It has been the good
+fortune of the writer to spend many a delightful day in the very
+centre of Merrie England, in the quiet town of Stratford-on-Avon,
+and feel the gentle companionship of Irving. Of all writers who have
+brought to Stratford their heart homage Irving stands the acknowledged
+chief. The sitting-room in the "Red Horse Hotel," where he was
+disturbed in his midnight reverie, is still called Irving's room, and
+the walls are hung with portraits taken at different periods of his
+life. Mine host said that visitors from every land were as much
+interested in this room as in Shakespeare's birth-place. The remark
+may have been intensified to flatter an American visitor, but there
+are few names dearer to the Anglo-Saxon race than that on the plain
+headstone in the burial-yard of Sleepy Hollow. Sunnyside is scarcely
+visible to the Day Line tourist. A little gleam of color here
+and there amid the trees, close to the river bank, near a small
+boat-house, merely indicates its location; and the traveler by train
+has only a hurried glimpse, as it is within one hundred feet of the
+New York Central Railroad. Tappan Zee, at this point, is a little more
+than two miles wide and over the beautiful expanse Irving has thrown
+a wondrous charm. There is, in fact, "magic in the web" of all his
+works. A few modern critics, lacking appreciation alike for humor and
+genius, may regard his essays as a thing of the past, but as long as
+the Mahicanituk, the ever-flowing Hudson, pours its waters to the
+sea, as long as Rip Van Winkle sleeps in the blue Catskills, or the
+"Headless Horseman" rides at midnight along the Old Post Road _en
+route_ for Teller's Point, so long will the writings of Washington
+Irving be remembered and cherished. We somehow feel the reality of
+every legend he has given us. The spring bubbling up near his cottage
+was brought over, as he gravely tells us, in a churn from Holland by
+one of the old time settlers, and we are half inclined to believe it;
+and no one ever thinks of doubting that the "Flying Dutchman," Mynheer
+Van Dam, has been rowing for two hundred years and never made a port.
+It is in fact still said by the old inhabitants, that often in the
+soft twilight of summer evenings, when the sea is like glass and the
+opposite hills throw their shadows across it, that the low vigorous
+pull of oars is heard but no boat is seen.
+
+[Illustration: NORTHERN POINT OF PALISADES]
+
+       * * *
+
+    Here was no castle in the air, but a realized day-dream.
+    Irving was there, as genial, humorous and imaginative
+    as if he had never wandered from the primal
+    haunts of his childhood and his fame.
+
+    _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to Irving "Sunnyside" was once the property of old Baltus
+Van Tassel, and here lived the fair Katrina, beloved by all the youths
+of the neighborhood, but more especially by Ichabod Crane, the country
+school-master, and a reckless youth by the name of Van Brunt. Irving
+tells us that he thought out the story one morning on London Bridge,
+and went home and completed it in thirty-six hours. The character of
+Ichabod Crane was a sketch of a young man whom he met at Kinderhook
+when writing his Knickerbocker history. It will be remembered that
+Ichabod Crane went to a quilting-bee at the home of Mynheer Van
+Tassel, and, after the repast, was regaled with various ghost stories
+peculiar to the locality. When the "party" was over he lingered for
+a time with the fair Katrina, but sallied out soon after with an air
+quite desolate and chop-fallen. The night grew darker and darker. He
+had never before felt so lonesome and miserable. As he passed the
+fatal tree where Arnold was captured, there started up before him the
+identical "Headless Horseman" to whom he had been introduced by the
+story of Brom Bones. Nay, not entirely headless; for the head which
+"should have rested upon his shoulders was carried before him on the
+pommel of the saddle. His terror rose to desperation. He rode for
+death and life. The strange horseman sped beside him at an equal pace.
+He fell into a walk. The strange horseman did the same. He endeavored
+to sing a psalm-tune, but his tongue clove to the roof of his mouth.
+If he could but reach the bridge Ichabod thought he would be safe.
+Away then he flew in rapid flight. He reached the bridge, he thundered
+over the resounding planks. Then he saw the goblin rising in his
+stirrups, and in the very act of launching his head at him. It
+encountered his cranium with a tremendous crash. He was tumbled
+headlong into the dirt, and the black steed and the spectral rider
+passed by like a whirlwind. The next day tracks of horses deeply
+dented in the road were traced to the bridge, beyond which, on the
+bank of a broad part of the brook, where the water ran deep and black,
+was found the hat of the unfortunate Ichabod, and close beside it a
+shattered pumpkin." All honor to him who fills this working-day world
+with humor, romance and beauty!
+
+       * * *
+
+    I beg you will have the kindness to let me know when
+    Mr. Irving takes pen in hand again; for assuredly I
+    shall expect a very great treat which I may chance never
+    to hear of but through your kindness.
+
+    _Walter Scott._
+
+       * * *
+
+    I want to visit Washington Irving, I want to see your
+    stupendous scenery, I want to go to the grave of
+    Washington.
+
+    _Lord Byron._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lyndehurst=, Helen M. Gould's residence. A short distance north of
+"Sunnyside" is the home of Helen M. Gould, whose modest and liberal
+use of wealth in noble charities has endeared her to every American
+heart. The place was first known as the Paulding Manor House, where
+William Paulding, early mayor of New York, and nephew of one of the
+captors of Andre had his country home. It is a beautiful specimen of
+old time English architecture, with a suggestion, as some writers have
+noted, of Newstead Abbey. This part of the Hudson is particularly rich
+in beautiful residences, rising tier upon tier from the river to the
+horizon. Albert Bierstadt, the artist, had here a beautiful home,
+unfortunately burned many years ago.
+
+=The Old Post Road= from New York to Albany is in many particulars the
+richest and greatest highway of our country.
+
+=Tappan.=--Almost opposite Irvington about two miles southwest of
+Piermont, is old Tappantown, where Major Andre was executed October
+2, 1780. The removal of his body from Tappan to Westminster was by a
+special British ship, and a singular incident was connected with it.
+The roots of a cypress tree were found entwined about his skull and a
+scion from the tree was carried to England and planted in the garden
+adjoining Windsor Palace. It is a still more curious fact that the
+tree beneath which Andre was captured was struck by lightning on the
+day of Benedict Arnold's death in London. Further reference will be
+made to Andre in our description of Tarrytown, and also of Haverstraw,
+where Arnold and Andre met at the house of Joshua Hett Smith.
+
+=Tarrytown=, 26 miles from New York. It was here on the Old Post Road,
+now called Broadway, a little north of the village, that Andre was
+captured and Arnold's treachery exposed. A monument erected on the
+spot by the people of Westchester County, October 7, 1853, bears the
+inscription:
+
+ON THIS SPOT, THE 23D DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1780, THE SPY,
+                   MAJOR JOHN ANDRE,
+  Adjutant-General of the British Army, was captured by
+   JOHN PAULDING, DAVID WILLIAMS, AND ISAAC VAN WART.
+               ALL NATIVES OF THIS COUNTY.
+               History has told the rest.
+
+The following quaint ballad-verses on the young hero give a realistic
+touch to one of the most providential occurrences in our history:
+
+  He with a scouting party
+    Went down to Tarrytown,
+  Where he met a British officer,
+    A man of high renown,
+  Who says unto these gentlemen,
+    "You're of the British cheer,
+  I trust that you can tell me
+    If there's any danger near?"
+
+  Then up stept this young hero,
+    John Paulding was his name,
+  "Sir, tell us where you're going
+    And also whence you came?"
+  "I bear the British flag, sir;
+    I've a pass to go this way,
+  I'm on an expedition,
+    And have no time to stay."
+
+Young Paulding, however, thought that he had plenty of time to linger
+until he examined his boots, wherein he found the papers, and, when
+offered ten guineas by Andre, if he would allow him to pursue his
+journey, replied: "If it were ten thousand guineas you could not stir
+one step."
+
+The centennial anniversary of the event was commemorated in 1880 by
+placing, through the generosity of John Anderson, on the original
+obelisk of 1853, a large statue representing John Paulding as a minute
+man.
+
+       * * *
+
+    That overruling Providence which has so often and so
+    remarkably interposed in our favor, never manifested
+    itself more conspicuously than in the timely discovery
+    of Arnold's treachery.
+
+    _George Washington._
+
+       * * *
+
+Tarrytown was the very heart of the debatable ground of the Revolution
+and many striking incidents mark its early history. In 1777 Vaughan's
+troops landed here on their way to attack Fort Montgomery, and here a
+party of Americans, under Major Hunt, surprised a number of British
+refugees while playing cards at the Van Tassel tavern. The major
+completely "turned the cards" upon them by rushing in with brandished
+stick, which he brought down with emphasis upon the table, remarking
+with genuine American brevity, "Gentlemen, clubs are trumps." Here,
+too, according to Irving, arose the two great orders of chivalry, the
+"Cow Boys" and "Skinners." The former fought, or rather marauded under
+the American, the latter under the British banner; the former were
+known as "Highlanders," the latter as the "Lower-Party." In the zeal
+of service both were apt to make blunders, and confound the property
+of friend and foe. "Neither of them, in the heat and hurry of a foray,
+had time to ascertain the politics of a horse or cow which they were
+driving off into captivity, nor when they wrung the neck of a rooster
+did they trouble their heads whether he crowed for Congress or King
+George."
+
+It was also a genial, reposeful country for the faithful historian,
+Diedrich Knickerbocker; and here he picked up many of those legends
+which were given by him to the world. One of these was the legend
+connected with the old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow. "A drowsy,
+dreamy influence seems to hang over the land, and to pervade the very
+atmosphere. Some say the place was bewitched by a high German doctor
+during the early days of the settlement; others that an old Indian
+chief, the wizard of his tribe, held his pow-wows there before
+Hendrick Hudson's discovery of the river. The dominant spirit,
+however, that haunts this enchanted region, is the apparition of
+a figure on horse-back, without a head, said to be the ghost of a
+Hessian trooper, and was known at all the country firesides as the
+'Headless horseman' of Sleepy Hollow."
+
+       * * *
+
+  O waters of Pocantico!
+    Wild rivulet of wood and glen!
+  May thy glad laughter, sweet and low,
+    Long, long outlive the sighs of men.
+
+  _S. H. Thayer._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: SLEEPY HOLLOW CHURCH.]
+
+=Sleepy Hollow.=--The Old Dutch Church, the oldest on the Hudson, is
+about one-half mile north from Tarrytown.
+
+It was built by "Frederick Filipse and his wife Katrina Van Cortland
+in 1690." The material is partly of stone and partly of brick brought
+from Holland. It stands as an appropriate sentinel near the entrance
+to the burial-yard where Irving sleeps. After entering the gate our
+way leads past the graves of the Ackers, the Van Tassels, and the Van
+Warts, with inscriptions and plump Dutch cherubs on every side
+that often delighted the heart of Diedrich Knickerbocker. How many
+worshippers since that November day in 1859, have come hither with
+reverent footsteps to read on the plain slab this simple inscription:
+"Washington Irving, born April 3, 1783. Died November 28, 1859," and
+recall Longfellow's beautiful lines:
+
+  "Here lies the gentle humorist, who died
+    In the bright Indian Summer of his fame.
+    A simple stone, with but a date and name,
+  Marks his secluded resting place beside
+  The river that he loved and glorified.
+    Here in the Autumn of his days he came,
+    But the dry leaves of life were all aflame
+  With tints that brightened and were multiplied.
+  How sweet a life was his, how sweet a death;
+  Living to wing with mirth the weary hours,
+    Or with romantic tales the heart to cheer;
+  Dying to leave a memory like the breath
+  Of Summers full of sunshine and of showers,
+    A grief and gladness in the atmosphere."
+
+       * * *
+
+    If ever I should wish for a retreat whither I might
+    steal from the world and its distractions, and dream
+    quietly away the remnant of a troubled life, I know of
+    none more promising than this little valley.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+Sleepy Hollow Church, like Sunnyside, is hidden away from the steamer
+tourist by summer foliage. Just before reaching Kingston Point
+light-house, a view, looking northeast up the little bay to the right,
+will sometimes give the outline of the building. Beyond this a tall
+granite shaft, erected by the Delavan family, is generally quite
+distinctly seen, and this is near the grave of Irving. A light-house,
+built in 1883, marks the point where the Pocantico or Sleepy Hollow
+Creek joins the Hudson:
+
+  Pocantico's hushed waters glide
+    Through Sleepy Hollow's haunted ground,
+  And whisper to the listening tide
+    The name carved o'er one lowly mound.
+
+To one loving our early history and legends there is no spot more
+central or delightful than Tarrytown. Irving humorously says that
+Tarrytown took its name from husbands tarrying too late at the village
+tavern, but its real derivation is Tarwen-Dorp, or Wheat-town. The
+name of the old Indian village at this point was Alipconck (the place
+of elms). It has often occurred to the writer that, more than any
+other river, the Hudson has a distinct personality, and also that
+the four main divisions of human life are particularly marked in the
+Adirondacks, the Catskills, the Highlands and Tappan Bay:
+
+  The Adirondacks, childhood's glee;
+    The Catskills, youth with dreams o'ercast;
+  The Highlands, manhood bold and free;
+    The Tappan Zee, age come at last.
+
+This was the spot that Irving loved; we linger by his grave at
+Sleepy Hollow with devotion; we sit upon his porch at Sunnyside with
+reverence:
+
+  Thrice blest and happy Tappan Zee,
+    Whose banks along thy glistening tide
+  Have legend, truth, and poetry
+    Sweetly expressed in Sunnyside!
+
+
+       * * *
+
+   Whose golden fancy wove a spell
+    As lasting as the scene is fair
+  And made the mountain stream and dell
+    His own dream-life forever share.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Nyack=, on the west side, 27 miles from New York. The village,
+including Upper Nyack, West Nyack and South Nyack, has many fine
+suburban homes and lies in a semi-circle of hills which sweep back
+from Piermont, meeting the river again at the northern end of Tappan
+Zee. Tappan is derived from an Indian tribe of that name, which, being
+translated, is said to signify cold water. The bay is ten miles in
+length, with an average breadth of about two miles and a half.
+
+Nyack grows steadily in favor as a place for summer residents. The
+hotels, boarding-houses and suburban homes would increase the census
+as given to nearly ten thousand people. The _West Shore Railroad_ is
+two and a half miles from the Hudson, with (a) station at West Nyack. The
+_Northern Railroad of New Jersey_, leased by the _New York, Lake Erie
+and Western_ (Chambers Street and 23d Street, New York), passes west
+of the Bergen Hills and the Palisades. The Ramapo Mountains, north
+of Nyack, were formerly known by ancient mariners as the Hook, or
+Point-no-Point. They come down to the river in little headlands, the
+points of which disappear as the steamer nears them. (The peak to the
+south, known as Hook Mountain, is 730 feet high.) Ball Mountain above
+this, and nearer the river, 650 feet. They were sometimes called by
+Dutch captains Verditege Hook.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The sails hung idly all night long,
+    I dreamed a dream of you and me;
+  'Twas sweeter than the sweetest song,--
+    The dream I dreamed on Tappan Zee.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: STONY POINT]
+
+Perhaps it took so long to pass these illusive headlands, reaching as
+they do eight miles along the western bank, that it naturally seemed a
+_very tedious_ point to the old skippers. Midway in this Ramapo Range,
+"set in a dimple of the hills," is--
+
+=Rockland Lake=, source of the Hackensack River, one hundred and fifty
+feet above the Hudson. The "slide way," by which the ice is sent down
+to the boats to be loaded, can be seen from the steamer, and the
+blocks in motion, as seen by the traveler, resemble little white pigs
+running down an inclined plane. As we look at the great ice-houses
+to-day, which, like uncouth barns, stand here and there along the
+Hudson, it does not seem possible that only a few years ago ice was
+decidedly unpopular, and wheeled about New York in a hand-cart. Think
+of one hand-cart supplying New York with ice! It was considered
+unhealthy, and called forth many learned discussions.
+
+Returning to the east bank, we see above Tarrytown many superb
+residences, notably "Rockwood," the home of William Rockefeller, of
+the Standard Oil Company. The estate of General James Watson Webb is
+also near at hand. Passing Scarborough Landing, with the Hook Mountain
+and Ball Mountains on the left, we see
+
+=Ossining=, formerly known as Sing Sing, on east bank. The low
+buildings, near the river bank, are the State's Prison. They are
+constructed of marble, but are not considered palatial by the
+prisoners that occupy the cells. It was quarried near by, and the
+prisons were built by convicts imported from Auburn in 1826. Saddlery,
+furniture, shoes, etc., are manufactured within its walls. There was
+an Indian chieftancy here known as the Sintsinks. In a deed to Philip
+Phillipse in 1685 a stream is referred to as "Kitchewan called by the
+Indians Sink-Sink." The Indian Village was known as Ossining, from
+"ossin" a stone and "ing" a place, probably so called from the rocky
+and stony character of the river banks.
+
+       * * *
+
+  How many, at this hour, along thy course,
+  Slumber to thine eternal murmurings
+  That mingle with the utterance of their dreams.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+The heights above Tappan Zee at this point are crowned by fine
+residences, and the village is one of the pleasantest on the river.
+The drives among the hills are delightful and present a wide and
+charming outlook. Here also are several flourishing military boarding
+schools and a seminary for girls. The old silver and copper mines once
+worked here never yielded satisfactory returns for invested capital.
+Various industries give active life and prosperity to the town. Just
+above Sing Sing
+
+=Croton River=, known by the Indians as Kitchawonk, joins the
+Hudson in a bay crossed by the _New York Central Railroad_ Croton
+draw-bridge. East of this point is a water shed having an area of 350
+square miles, which supplies New York with water. The Croton Reservoir
+is easily reached by a pleasant carriage drive from Sing Sing, and it
+is a singular fact that the pitcher and ice-cooler of New York, or in
+other words, Croton Dam and Rockland Lake, should be almost opposite.
+About fifty years ago the Croton first made its appearance in New
+York, brought in by an aqueduct of solid masonry which follows the
+course of the Hudson near the Old Post Road, or at an average distance
+of about a mile from the east bank. Here and there its course can be
+traced by "white stone ventilating towers" from Sing Sing to High
+Bridge, which conveys the aqueduct across the Harlem River. Its
+capacity is 100,000,000 gallons per day, which however began to be
+inadequate for the city and a new aqueduct was therefore begun in 1884
+and completed in 1890, capable of carrying three times that amount, at
+a cost of $25,000,000. The water-shed is well supplied with streams
+and lakes. Lake Mahopac, one of its fountains, is one of the most
+beautiful sheets of water near the metropolis, and easily accessible
+by a pleasant drive from Peekskill, or by the _Harlem Railroad_ from
+New York. The old Indian name was Ma-cook-pake, signifying a large
+inland lake, or perhaps an island near the shore. The same derivation
+is also seen in Copake Lake, Columbia County. On an island of Mahopac
+the last great "convention" of the southern tribes of the Hudson was
+held. The lake is about 800 feet above tide, and it is pleasant to
+know that the bright waters of Mahopac and the clear streams of Putnam
+and Westchester are conveyed to New York even as the poetic waters of
+Loch Katrine to the city of Glasgow. The Catskill water supply, the
+ground of which was broken in 1907, is referred to in our description
+of Cold Spring and the Catskills.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Round the aqueducts of story
+    As the mists of Lethe throng
+  Croton's waves in all their glory
+    Troop in melody along.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+Just above Croton Bay and the _New York Central Railroad_ draw-bridge
+will be seen the old Van Cortlandt Manor, where Frederick Phillipse
+and Katrina Van Cortlandt were married, as seen by the inscription on
+the old Dutch Church of Sleepy Hollow.
+
+=Teller's Point= (sometimes known as Croton or Underhill's Point),
+separates Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay. It was called by the Indians
+"Senasqua." Tradition says that ancient warriors still haunt the
+surrounding glens and woods, and the sachems of Teller's Point are
+household words in the neighborhood. It is also said that there was
+once a great Indian battle here, and perhaps the ghosts of the old
+warriors are attracted by the Underhill grapery and the 10,000 gallons
+of wine bottled every season.
+
+It was here the British warship "The Vulture," came with Andre and put
+him ashore at the foot of Mount Tor below Haverstraw.
+
+The river now opens into a beautiful bay, four miles in width,--a bed
+large enough to tuck up fifteen River Rhines side by side. This reach
+sometimes seems in the bright sunlight like a molten bay of silver,
+and the tourist finds relief in adjusting his smoked glasses to temper
+the dazzling light.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beneath these gold and azure skies
+    The river winds through leafy glades,
+  Save where, like battlements, arise
+    The gray and tufted Palisades.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Haverstraw=, 37 miles from New York. Haverstraw Bay is sometimes said
+to be five miles wide. Its widest point, however, from Croton Landing
+to Haverstraw, is, according to United States Geological Survey,
+a little over four miles. The principal industry of Haverstraw is
+brick-making, and its brick yards reaching north to Grassy Point, are
+of materal profit, if not picturesque. The place was called Haverstraw
+by the Dutch, perhaps as a place of rye straw, to distinguish it from
+Tarrytown, a place of wheat. The Indian name has been lost; but, if
+its original derivation is uncertain, it at least calls up the rhyme
+of old-time river captains, which Captain Anderson of the "Mary
+Powell" told the writer he used to hear frequently when a boy:
+
+  "West Point and Middletown,
+  Konnosook and Doodletown,
+  Kakiak and Mamapaw,
+  Stony Point and Haverstraw."
+
+Quaint as these names now sound, they all are found on old maps of the
+Hudson.
+
+=High Torn= is the name of the northern point of the Ramapo on the
+west bank, south of Haverstraw. According to the Coast Survey, it is
+820 feet above tide-water, and the view from the summit is grand and
+extensive. The origin of the name is not clear, but it has lately
+occurred to the writer, from a re-reading of Scott's "Peveril of the
+Peak," that it might have been named from the Torn, a mountain in
+Derbyshire, either from its appearance, or by some patriotic settler
+from the central water-shed of England. Others say it is the
+Devonshire word Tor changed to Torn, evidently derived from the same
+source.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Emerging from these confused piles, the river as if
+    rejoicing at its release from its struggle, expanded into
+    a wide bay, which was ornamented by a few fertile and
+    low points that jutted humbly into its broad basin.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+=West Shore Railroad.=--The tourist will see at this point, on the
+left bank of the river, the tunnel whereby the "West Shore" finds
+egress from the mountains. The traveler over this railway, on emerging
+from the quiet valley west of the Palisades, comes upon a sudden
+vision of beauty unrivaled in any land. The broad river seems like a
+great inland lake; and the height of the tunnel above the silver bay
+gives to the panoramic landscape a wondrous charm. About a mile from
+the river, southwest of Grassy Point, on the farther side of the
+winding Minnissickuongo Creek, which finally after long meandering
+makes up its mind to glide into Stony Point Bay, will be seen Treason
+Hill marked by the Joshua Hett Smith stone house where Arnold and
+Andre met. The story of this meeting will be referred to at greater
+length in connection with its most dramatic incident at the old
+Beverley House in the Highlands. The Hudson here is about two miles
+in width and narrows rapidly as we pass Grassy Point on the west bank
+with its meadows and brick yards to
+
+=Stony Point=, where it is scarcely more than half a mile to
+Verplank's Point on the eastern bank. This was, therefore, an
+important pass during the Revolution. The crossing near at hand was
+known as King's Ferry, at and before the days of '76, and was quite an
+avenue of travel between the Southern, Middle and Eastern States. The
+fort crowning a commanding headland, was captured by the British, June
+1, 1779, but it was surprised and recaptured by Anthony Wayne, July
+15 of the same year. A centennial was observed at the place July 15,
+1879, when the battle was "refought" and the West Point Cadets showed
+how they would have done it if they had been on hand a century ago.
+Thackeray, in his "Virginians," gives perhaps the most graphic account
+of this midnight battle. The present light-house occupies the site of
+the old fort, and was built in part of stone taken from its walls.
+Upon its capture by the British, Washington, whose headquarters were
+at New Windsor, meditated a bold stroke and summoned Anthony Wayne,
+more generally known as "Mad Anthony," from his reckless daring, to
+undertake its recapture with a force of one thousand picked men. The
+lines were formed in two columns about 8 p.m. at "Springsteel's farm."
+Each soldier and officer put a piece of white paper in his hat to
+distinguish him from the foe. No guns were to be loaded under penalty
+of death. General Wayne, at the head of the column, forded the marsh
+covered at the time with two feet of water. The other column led by
+Butler and Murfree crossed an apology for a bridge. During the advance
+both columns were discovered by the British sentinels and the rocky
+defense literally blazed with musketry. In stern silence, however,
+without faltering, the American columns moved forward, entered the
+abatis, until the advance guard under Anthony Wayne was within the
+enemy's works. A bullet at this moment struck Wayne in the forehead
+grazing his skull. Quickly recovering from the shock, he rose to his
+knees, shouted: "Forward, my brave fellows"; then turning to two of
+his followers, he asked them to help him into the fort that he might
+die, if it were to be so, "in possession of the spot." Both columns
+were now at hand and inspired by the brave general, came pouring
+in, crying "The fort's our own." The British troops completely
+overwhelmed, were fain to surrender and called for mercy. Wayne's
+characteristic message to Washington antedates modern telegraphic
+brevity:--"Stony Point, 2 o'clock a.m. The American flag waves
+here.--Mad Anthony." There were twenty killed and sixty wounded on
+each side. Some five hundred of the enemy were captured and about
+sixty escaped. "Money rewards and medals were given to Wayne and
+the leaders in the assault. The ordinance and stores captured were
+appraised at over $180,000 and there was universal rejoicing"
+throughout the land. "Stony Point State Park" was dedicated by
+appropriate ceremony July 16, 1902. At the close of Governor Odell's
+address the flag was raised by William Wayne, a lineal descendant of
+the hero, and the cruiser "Olympia" of Manila fame boomed forth her
+tribute. Verplank's Point, on the east bank (now full of brick-making
+establishments), was the site of Fort Lafayette. It was here that
+Baron Steuben drilled the soldiers of the American army. Back from
+Green Cove above Verplanck's Point is "Knickerbocker Lake."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The star spangled banner, the flag of the brave,
+  And the cross of old England in amity wave,
+  But if ever the nations do battle again
+  God send us such soldiers as Anthony Wayne.
+
+  _Minna Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+  The echoes that so boldly rung
+    When cannon flashed from steep to steep,
+  And freedom's airy challenge flung,
+    In each romantic valley sleep.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Tompkin's Cove.=--North of Stony Point we see great quarries of
+limestone, the principal industry of the village of Tompkin's Cove.
+Gravel is also shipped from this place for Central Park roads and
+driveways in New York City. The tourist, looking north from the
+forward deck of the steamer, sees no opening in the mountains, and
+it is amusing to hear the various conjectures of the passengers; as
+usual, the "unexpected" happens. The steamer turns to the left and
+sweeps at once into the grand scenery of the Highlands. The straight
+forward course, which seems the more natural, would land the steamer
+against the _Hudson River Railroad_, crossing the Peekskill River.
+It is said that an old skipper, Jans Peek, ran up this stream, years
+before the railroad was built, and did not know that he had left the
+Hudson, or rather that the Hudson was "left" until he ran aground in
+the shoal water of the bay. The next morning he discovered that it was
+a goodly land, and the place bears his name unto this day.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Highlands and the Palisades
+    Mirror their beauty in the tide,
+  The history of whose forest shades
+    A nation reads with conscious pride.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Peekskill=, 40 miles from New York, is a pleasant city on the quiet
+bay which deeply indents the eastern bank. The property in this
+vicinity was known as Rycks Patent in 1665. In Revolutionary times
+Fort Independence stood on the point above, where its ruins are still
+seen. The Franciscan Convent Academy of "Our Lady of Angels," guards
+the point below. In 1797 Peekskill was the headquarters of old Israel
+Putnam, who rivaled "Mad Anthony" in brevity as well as courage. It
+will be remembered that Palmer was here captured as a spy. A British
+officer wrote a letter asking his reprieve, to which Putnam replied,
+"Nathan Palmer was taken as a spy, tried as a spy and will be hanged
+as a spy. P. S.--He is hanged." This was the birthplace of Paulding,
+one of Andre's captors, and he died here in 1818. He is buried in the
+old rural cemetery about two miles and a half from the village, and a
+monument has been erected to his memory. Near at hand is the "Wayside
+Inn," where Andre once "tarried," also the Hillside Cemetery, where on
+June 19, 1898, the 123d anniversary of the battle of Bunker Hill, a
+monument was unveiled to General Pomeroy by the Society of the Sons of
+Revolution, New York. The church which Washington attended is in good
+preservation.
+
+Near Peekskill is the old Van Cortlandt house, the residence of
+Washington for a short time during the Revolution. East of the village
+was the summer home of the great pulpit orator, Henry Ward Beecher.
+Peekskill was known by the Indians as Sackhoes in the territory of the
+Kitchawongo, which extended from Croton River to Anthony's Nose.
+
+[Illustration: SOUTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS]
+
+Turning Caldwell's Landing or Jones' Point, formerly known as Kidd's
+Point, almost at right angles, the steamer enters the southern gate of
+the Highlands. At the water edge will be seen some upright planks or
+caissons marking the spot where Kidd's ship was supposed to have been
+scuttled. As his history seems to be intimately associated with the
+Hudson, we will give it in brief:
+
+=The Story of Captain Kidd.=--"My name was Captain Kidd as I sailed,"
+are famous lines of an old ballad which was once familiar to our
+grandfathers. The hapless hero of the same was born about the middle
+of the seventeenth century, and it is thought, near Greenock,
+Scotland. He resided at one time in New York, near the corner of
+William and Cedar Streets, and was there married. In April, 1696, he
+sailed from England in command of the "Adventure Galley," with full
+armament and eighty men. He captured a French ship, and, on arrival at
+New York, put up articles for volunteers; remained in New York three
+or four months, increasing his crew to one hundred and fifty-five
+men, and sailed thence to Madras, thence to Bonavista and St. Jago,
+Madagascar, then to Calicut, then to Madagascar again, then sailed and
+took the "Quedah Merchant." Kidd kept forty shares of the spoils, and
+divided the rest with his crew. He then burned the "Adventure Galley,"
+went on board the "Quedah Merchant," and steered for the West Indies.
+Here he left the "Merchant," with part of his crew, under one Bolton,
+as commander. Then manned a sloop, and taking part of his spoils, went
+to Boston via Long Island Sound, and is said to have set goods on
+shore at different places. In the meantime, in August, 1698, the East
+Indian Company informed the Lords Justice that Kidd had committed
+several acts of piracy, particularly in seizing a Moor's ship called
+the "Quedah Merchant." When Kidd landed at Boston he was therefore
+arrested by the Earl of Bellamont, and sent to England for trial,
+1699, where he was found guilty and executed. Now it is supposed that
+the crew of the "Quedah Merchant," which Kidd left at Hispaniola,
+sailed for their homes, as the crew was mostly gathered from the
+Highlands and above. It is said that they passed New York in the
+night, _en route_ to the manor of Livingston; but encountering a gale
+in the Highlands, and thinking they were pursued, ran her near the
+shore, now known as Kidd's Point, and here scuttled her, the crew
+fleeing to the woods with such treasure as they could carry. Whether
+this circumstance was true or not, it was at least a current story in
+the neighborhood, and an enterprising individual, about fifty years
+ago, _caused an old cannon_ to be "discovered" in the river, and
+perpetrated the first "Cardiff Giant Hoax." A New York Stock Company
+was organized to prosecute the work. It was said that the ship could
+be seen in clear days, with her masts still standing, many fathoms
+below the surface. One thing is certain--the company did not see it or
+the _treasurer_ either, in whose hands were deposited about $30,000.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beauty and majesty on either hand
+  Have shared thy waters with their common realm.
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Their summits are the first to meet
+     The morning's golden ray,
+  And last to catch the crimson fires
+    That warm the dying day.
+
+  _Minna Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+On the west shore rise the rock-beaten crags of--
+
+=The Dunderberg=, the dread of the Dutch mariners. This hill,
+according to Irving, was peopled with a multitude of imps, too great
+for man to number, who wore sugar-loaf hats and short doublets, and
+had a picturesque way of "tumbling head over heels in the rack and
+mist." They were especially malignant toward all captains who failed
+to do them reverence, and brought down frightful squalls on such craft
+as failed to drop the peaks of their mainsails to the goblin who
+presided over this shadowy republic. It was the dread of the early
+navigators--in fact, the Olympus of Dutch mythology. Verditege Hook,
+the Dunderberg, and the Overslaugh, were names of terror to even the
+bravest skipper. The old burghers of New York never thought of making
+their week's voyage to Albany without arranging their wills, and it
+created as much commotion in New Amsterdam as a modern expedition to
+the north pole. Dunderberg, in most of the Hudson Guides and Maps, is
+put down as 1,098 feet, but its actual altitude by the latest United
+States Geological Survey is 865 feet.
+
+The State National Guard Encampment crowns a bluff, formerly known as
+Roa Hook, on the east bank, north of Peekskill Bay, a happy location
+in the midst of history and beauty. Every regiment in the State
+rallies here in turn during the summer months for instruction in the
+military art, living in tents and enjoying life in true army style.
+Visitors are cordially greeted at proper hours, and the camp is easily
+reached by ferry from Peekskill. A ferry also runs from Peekskill to
+Dunderberg, affording a hillside outing and a delightful view. It is
+expected that a spiral railroad, fourteen miles in length, undertaken
+by a recently organized corporation, but abandoned for the present,
+will make the spot a great Hudson River resort. The plan also embraces
+a palatial hotel on the summit and pleasure grounds upon the point at
+its base. Passing Manito Mountain on our right the steamer approaches
+
+=Anthony's Nose=, a prominent feature of the Hudson.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The waters were hemmed in by abrupt and dark
+    mountains, but the channel was still broad and smooth
+    enough for all the steamboats in the Republic to ride
+    in safety.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: ANTHONY'S NOSE.]
+
+Strangely enough the altitude of the mountains at the southern portal
+of the Highlands has been greatly overrated. The formerly accepted
+height of Anthony's Nose has been reduced by the Geological Survey
+from 1,228 feet to 900. It has, however, an illustrious christening,
+and according to various historians several godfathers. One says
+it was named after St. Anthony the Great, the first institutor of
+monastic life, born A. D. 251, at Coma, in Heraclea, a town in Upper
+Egypt. Irving's humorous account is, however, quite as probable that
+it was _derived_ from the nose of Antony Van Corlear, the illustrious
+trumpeter of Peter Stuyvesant. "Now thus it happened that bright and
+early in the morning the good Antony, having washed his burly visage,
+was leaning over the quarter-railing of the galley, contemplating it
+in the glassy waves below. Just at this moment the illustrious
+sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind a high bluff of the
+Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the
+refulgent _nose_ of the sounder of brass, the reflection of which
+shot straightway down hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty
+sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. When this astonishing
+miracle was made known to the Governor, and he tasted of the unknown
+fish, he marveled exceedingly; and, as a monument thereof, he gave the
+name of Anthony's Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood,
+and it has continued to be called Anthony's Nose ever since." It
+was called by the Indians "Kittatenny," a Delaware term, signifying
+"endless hills." The stream flowing into the river south of Anthony's
+Nose is known as the Brocken Kill, broken into beautiful cascades from
+mountain source to mouth.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The beautiful and in some places highly singular
+    banks of the Hudson rendered a voyage both amusing
+    and interesting, while the primitive manners of the inhabitants
+    diverted the gay and idle and pleased
+    the thoughtful and speculative.
+
+    _Mrs. Grant of Laggan._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Iona Island=, formerly a pleasure resort and picnic ground. An
+old-time joke of the Hudson was frequently perpetrated on strangers
+while passing the island. Some one would innocently observe, "I own
+a island on the Hudson." When any one obligingly asked, "Where?" the
+reply would be with pointed finger, "Why there." But the United States
+Government _owns_ it now against all comers, and its quiet lanes and
+picnic abandon have been exchanged for busy machine shops and military
+discipline. It is near the west bank, opposite Anthony's Nose. A
+short distance from the island, on the main land, was the village or
+cross-roads of Doodletown. This reach of the river was formerly known
+as The Horse Race, from the rapid flow of the tide when at its height.
+The hills on the west bank now recede from the river, forming a
+picturesque amphitheatre, bounded on the west by Bear Mountain. An
+old road directly in the rear of Iona Island, better known to Anthony
+Wayne than to the modern tourist, passes through Doodletown, over
+Dunderberg, just west of Tompkin's Cove, to Haverstraw. Here amid
+these pleasant foothills Morse laid the scene of a historical romance,
+which he however happily abandoned for a wider invention. The world
+can get along without the novel, but it would be a trifle slow without
+the telegraph. On the west bank, directly opposite the railroad tunnel
+which puts a merry "ring" into the tip of Anthony's Nose, is what is
+now known as Highland Lake, called by the Indians "Sinnipink," and by
+the immediate descendants of our Revolutionary fathers "Hessian
+Lake" or "Bloody Pond," from the fact that an American company were
+mercilessly slaughtered here by the Hessians, and, after the surrender
+of Fort Montgomery, their bodies were thrown into the lake.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Behold again the wildwood shade,
+  The mountain steep, the checkered glade,
+  And hoary rocks and bubbling rills,
+  And pointed waves and distant hills.
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+The capture of Fort Clinton and Fort Montgomery was two years before
+Mad Anthony's successful assault on Stony Point. Early in the history
+of the Revolution, the British Government thought that it would be
+possible to cut off the eastern from the middle and southern Colonies
+by capturing and garrisoning commanding points along the Hudson and
+Lake Champlain. It was therefore decided in London, in the spring of
+1777, to have Sir Henry Clinton approach from the south and Burgoyne
+from the north. Reinforcements, however, arrived late from England and
+it was September before Clinton transported his troops, about 4,000
+in number, in warships and flat-boats up the river. Governor George
+Clinton was in charge of Fort Montgomery, and his brother James of
+Fort Clinton, while General Putnam, with about 2,000 men, had his
+headquarters at Peekskill. In addition to these forts, a chain was
+stretched across the Hudson from Anthony's Nose to a point near the
+present railroad bridge, to obstruct the British fleet. General
+Putnam, however, became convinced that Sir Henry Clinton proposed
+to attack Fort Independence. Most of the troops were accordingly
+withdrawn from Forts Montgomery and Clinton, when Sir Henry Clinton,
+taking advantage of a morning fog, crossed with 2,000 men at King's
+Ferry. Guided by a sympathizer of the British cause, who knew the
+district, he crossed the Dunderberg Mountain by the road just
+indicated. One division of 900 moving on Fort Montgomery, and another
+of 1,100 on Fort Clinton. Governor Clinton in the meantime ordered 400
+soldiers to Fort Montgomery, and his reconnoitering party, met by the
+Hessians, fell back upon the fort, fighting as it retreated. Governor
+Clinton sent to General Putnam for reinforcements, but it is said that
+the messenger deserted, so that Putnam literally sat waiting in camp,
+unconscious of the enemy's movements. A simultaneous attack was made
+at 5 o'clock in the afternoon on both forts. Lossing says: "The
+garrisons were composed mostly of untrained militia. They behaved
+nobly, and kept up the defense vigorously, against a greatly superior
+force of disciplined and veteran soldiers, until twilight, when they
+were overpowered, and sought safety in a scattered retreat to the
+neighboring mountains. Many escaped, but a considerable number were
+slain or made prisoners. The Governor fled across the river in a
+boat, and at midnight was with General Putnam at Continental Village,
+concerting measures for stopping the invasion. James, forcing his way
+to the rear, across the highway bridge, received a bayonet wound in
+the thigh, but safely reached his home at New Windsor. A sloop of ten
+guns, the frigate "Montgomery"--twenty-four guns--and two row-galleys,
+stationed near the boom and chain for their protection, slipped their
+cables and attempted to escape, but there was no wind to fill their
+sails, and they were burned by the Americans to prevent their falling
+into the hands of the enemy. The frigate "Congress," twenty-eight
+guns, which had already gone up the river, shared the same fate on the
+flats near Fort Constitution, which was abandoned. By the light of the
+burning vessels the fugitive garrisons made their way over the rugged
+mountains, and a large portion of them joined General Clinton at New
+Windsor the next day. They had left many of their brave companions
+behind, who, to the number of 250, had been slain or taken prisoners.
+The British, too, had parted with many men and brave officers. Among
+the latter was Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell. Early in the morning of
+the 7th of October, the river obstructions between Fort Montgomery and
+Anthony's Nose, which cost the Americans $250,000, were destroyed, and
+a light flying squadron, commanded by Sir James Wallace, and bearing a
+large number of land troops under General Vaughan, sailed up the river
+on a marauding expedition, with instructions from Sir Henry to scatter
+desolation in their paths. It was hoped that such an expedition would
+draw troops from the Northern army for the protection of the country
+below, and thereby assist Burgoyne."
+
+       * * *
+
+  I love thy tempests when the broad-winged blast
+    Rouses thy billows with his battle call,
+  When gathering clouds, in phalanx black and vast
+    Like armed shadows gird thy rocky wall.
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+Sir Henry Clinton, who had been advised by General Burgoyne that he
+must be relieved by October 12th, sent a messenger announcing his
+victory. Another of the many special providences of the American
+Revolution now occurs. The messenger blundered into the American camp,
+where some soldiers sat in British uniform, and found out too late
+that he was among enemies instead of friends. As Irving relates the
+incident in his "Life of Washington":
+
+--"On the 9th (October) two persons coming from Fort Montgomery were
+arrested by the guard, and brought for examination. One was much
+agitated, and was observed to put something hastily into his mouth
+and swallow it. An emetic was administered, and brought up a silver
+bullet. Before he could be prevented he swallowed it again. On his
+refusing a second emetic, the Governor threatened to have him hanged
+and his body opened. This threat was effectual and the bullet was
+again 'brought to light.' It was oval in form, and hollow, with a
+screw in the centre, and contained a note from Sir Henry Clinton to
+Burgoyne, written on a slip of thin paper, and dated October 8th, from
+Fort Montgomery: '_Nous y voici_ (here we are), and nothing between
+us and Gates. I sincerely hope this little success of ours will
+facilitate your operations.' Burgoyne never received it, and
+on October 13th, after the battles of Bennington and Saratoga,
+surrendered to General Gates. Sir Henry Clinton abandoned the forts on
+hearing of his defeat, and returned to New York 'a sadder and wiser
+man.'"
+
+       * * *
+
+  Columbia! Columbia! to glory arise,
+  The queen of the earth and the child of the skies.
+
+  _Timothy Dwight._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Far up the Hudson's silver flood
+    I hear the Highlands call
+  With whispering of leafy boughs
+    And voice of waterfall.
+
+  _Minna Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Beverley House.=--Passing Cohn's Hook, pronounced Connosook, where
+Hendrick Hudson anchored on his way up the river September 14, 1609,
+we see before us on the right bank a point coming down to the shore
+marked by a boat house. This is Beverley Dock, and directly up the
+river bank about an eighth of a mile stood the old Beverley House,
+where Benedict Arnold had his headquarters when in command of
+West Point. The old house, a good specimen of colonial times, was
+unfortunately burned in 1892, and with it went the most picturesque
+landmark of the most dramatic incident of the Revolution. It will
+be remembered that Arnold returned to the Beverley House after his
+midnight interview with Andre at Haverstraw, and immediately upon the
+capture of Andre the following day, that Colonel Jamison sent a letter
+to Arnold, advising him of the fact. It was the morning of September
+4th. General Washington was on his way to West Point, coming across
+the country from Connecticut. On arriving, however, at the river,
+just above the present station of Garrison, he became interested in
+examining some defenses, and sent Alexander Hamilton forward to the
+Beverley House, saying that he would come later, requesting the
+family to proceed with their breakfast and not to await his arrival.
+Alexander Hamilton and General Lafayette sat gayly chatting with Mrs.
+Arnold and her husband when the letter from Jamison was received.
+Arnold glanced at the contents, rose and excused himself from the
+table, beckoning to his wife to follow him, bade her good-bye, told
+her he was a ruined man and a traitor, kissed his little boy in the
+cradle, rode to Beverley Dock, and ordered his men to pull off and
+go down the river. The "Vulture," an English man-of-war, was near
+Teller's Point, and received a traitor, whose miserable treachery
+branded him with eternal infamy on both continents. It is said that
+he lived long enough to be hissed in the House of Commons, as he once
+took his seat in the gallery, and he died friendless and despised. It
+is also said, when Talleyrand arrived in Havre on foot from Paris, in
+the darkest hour of the French Revolution, pursued by the bloodhounds
+of the reign of terror, and was about to secure a passage to the
+United States, he asked the landlord of the hotel whether any
+Americans were staying at his house, as he was going across the water,
+and would like a letter to a person of influence in the New World.
+"There is a gentleman up-stairs from Britain or America," was the
+response. He pointed the way, and Talleyrand ascended the stairs. In a
+dimly lighted room sat a man of whom the great minister of France was
+to ask a favor. He advanced, and poured forth in elegant French and
+broken English, "I am a wanderer, and an exile. I am forced to fly to
+the New World without a friend or home. You are an American. Give me,
+then, I beseech you, a letter of yours, so that I may be able to earn
+my bread." The strange gentleman rose. With a look that Talleyrand
+never forgot, he retreated toward the door of the next chamber. He
+spoke as he retreated, and his voice was full of suffering: "I am the
+only man of the New World who can raise his hand to God and say,
+'I have not a friend, not one, in America!'" "Who are you?" he
+cried--"your name?" "My name is Benedict Arnold!"
+
+       * * *
+
+  Wayne, Putnam, Knox and Heath are there,
+    Steuben, proud Prussia's honored son;
+  Brave Lafayette from France the fair,
+    And chief of all our Washington.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Andre's fate on the other hand was widely lamented. He was universally
+beloved by his comrades and possessed a rich fund of humor which often
+bubbled over in verse. It is a strange coincidence that his best
+poetic attempt on one of Anthony Wayne's exploits near Fort Lee,
+entitled "The Cow Chase," closed with a graphically prophetic verse:
+
+  "And now I've closed my epic strain,
+    I tremble as I show it,
+  Lest this same Warrior-Drover Wayne
+    Should ever catch the poet."
+
+By a singular coincidence he did: General Wayne was in command of the
+Tarrytown and Tappan country where Andre was captured and executed. It
+is also said that these lines were published by one of the Tory papers
+in New York the very day of Andre's capture. One of the old-time
+characters on the Hudson, known as Uncle Richard, has recently thrown
+new light on the capture of Andre by claiming, with a touch of genuine
+humor, that it was entirely due to the "effects" of cider which had
+been freely "dispensed" that day by a certain Mr. Horton, a farmer in
+the neighborhood.
+
+       * * *
+
+  In view of all he lost,--his youth, his love,
+    And possibilities that wait the brave,
+  Inward and outward bound dim visions move
+    Like passing sails upon the Hudson's wave.
+
+  _Charlotte Fiske Bates._
+
+       * * *
+
+It is impossible even in these later years, not to speak of
+twenty-five or fifty years ago, to travel along the shores of
+Haverstraw Bay or among the passes of the Highlands, without hearing
+some old-time stories about Arnold and Andre, and it would be strange
+indeed if a little romance had not here and there become blended with
+the real facts. Uncle Richard's account is undoubtedly the best since
+the days of Knickerbocker. "Benedict Arnold, you know, had command of
+West Point, and he knew that the place was essential to the success of
+the Continental cause. He plotted, as everybody knows, to turn it
+over to the enemy, and in the correspondence which he carried on with
+General Clinton, young Andre, Clinton's aid, did all the writing.
+Things were coming to a focus, when a meeting took place between
+Arnold and Clinton's representative, Andre, at the house of Joshua
+Hett Smith, near Haverstraw. Andre came on the British ship "Vulture,"
+which he left at Croton Point, in Haverstraw Bay. Well," so runs Uncle
+Richard's story, "it took a long time to get matters settled; they
+'confabbed' till after daybreak. Then Arnold started back to the post
+which he had plotted to surrender. But daylight was no time for Andre
+to return to the "Vulture," so he hung round waiting for night.
+
+"During that day, some men who were working for James Horton, a farmer
+on the ridge overlooking the river, who gave his men good rations of
+cider, drank a little too much of the hard stuff. They felt good, and
+thought it would be a fine joke to load and fire off an old disabled
+cannon which lay a mile or so away on the bank. They hauled it to the
+point now called Cockroft Point, propped it up, and then the spirit
+of fun--and hard cider--prompted them to train the old piece on the
+British ship "Vulture," lying at anchor in the Bay. The "Vulture's"
+people must have overestimated the source of the fire, for the ship
+dropped down the river, and Andre had to abandon the idea of returning
+by that means. He crossed the river at King's Ferry, and while on his
+way overland was captured at Tarrytown.
+
+"Of course, the three brave men who refused to be bribed deserve all
+the glory they ever had; if it were not for them, who knows but the
+revolutionary war would have had a different ending. But they never
+would have had a chance to capture Andre if it had not been for James
+Horton's men warming up on hard cider. Hard cider broke the plans
+of Arnold, it hung Andre, and it saved West Point." A boy misguided
+Grouchy _en route_ to Waterloo. On what small hinges turn the
+destinies of nations!
+
+       * * *
+
+    A slanting ray lingered on the woody crests of the precipices that
+    overhung the river, giving greater depth to the dark-gray and
+    purple of the rocky sides.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+All the way from Anthony's Nose to Beverley Dock, where we have been
+lingering over the story of Andre, we have been literally turning a
+kaleidoscope of blended history and beauty, with scarcely time to note
+the delightful homes on the west bank, just above Fort Montgomery.
+Among them J. Pierpont Morgan's and the Pells', John Bigelow's and
+"Benny Havens'," or on the east bank of Hamilton Fish, just above
+Beverley Dock, Samuel Sloan and the late William H. Osborn, just north
+of Sugar Loaf Mountain; the mountain being so named as it resembles,
+to one coming up the river, the old-fashioned conical-shaped
+sugar-loaf, which was formerly suspended by a string over the centre
+of the hospitable Dutch tables, and swung around to be occasionally
+nibbled at, which in good old Knickerbocker days, was thought to be
+the best and only orthodox way of sweetening tea.
+
+=Buttermilk Falls=, so christened by Washington Irving, is a pretty
+little cascade on the west bank. Like sparkling wit, it is often dry,
+and the tourist is exceptionally fortunate who sees it in full-dress
+costume after a heavy shower, when it rushes over the rocks in floods
+of snow-white foam. Highland Falls is the name of a small village a
+short distance west of the river, on the bluff, but not seen from the
+deck of the steamer.
+
+The large building above the rocky channel is Lady Cliff, the Academy
+of Our Lady of Angels, under the Franciscan Sisters at Peekskill,
+opened September, 1900. It was originally built for a hotel, and
+widely known as Cranston's Hotel and Landing. As the steamer is now
+approaching the west bank we see above us the Cullum Memorial Hall,
+completed in 1899, a bequest of the late George W. Cullum of the class
+of 1833. The still newer structure to the south is the officers'
+messroom, crowning the crest above the landing.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Then, as you nearer draw, each wooded height
+  Puts off the azure hues by distance given!
+  And slowly breaks upon the enamored sight,
+  Ravine, crag, field and wood in colors true and bright.
+
+  _Theodore S. Fay._
+
+       * * *
+
+=West Point=, taken all in all, is the most beautiful tourist spot on
+the Hudson. Excursionists by the Day Boats from New York, returning
+by afternoon steamer, have three hours to visit the various places
+of history and beauty. To make an easy mathematical formula or
+picturesque "rule of three" statement, what Quebec is to the St.
+Lawrence, West Point is to the Hudson. If the citadel of Quebec is
+more imposing, the view of the Hudson at this place is grander than
+that of the St. Lawrence, and the ruins of Fort Putnam are almost as
+venerable as the Heights of Abraham. The sensation of the visitor is,
+moreover, somewhat the same in both places as to the environment of
+law and authority. To get the daily character and quality of West
+Point one should spend at least twenty-four hours within its borders,
+and a good hotel, the only one on the Government grounds, will be
+found central and convenient to everything of interest. The parade and
+drills at sunset hour can best be seen in this way.
+
+=The United States Military Academy.=--Soon after the close of the War
+of the Revolution, Washington suggested West Point as the site of a
+military academy, and, in 1793, in his annual message, recommended it
+to Congress, which in 1794 organized a corps of artillerists to be
+here stationed with thirty-two cadets, enlarging the number in 1798 to
+fifty-six. In 1808 it was increased to one hundred and fifty-six, and
+in 1812 to two hundred and sixty.
+
+Up to 1812 only 71 cadets had been graduated. The roll of graduates
+now numbers about 5,000.
+
+Each Congressman has the appointment of one cadet, supplemented by
+ten appointed by the President of the United States. These cadets are
+members of the regular army, subject to its regulations for eight
+years, viz: during four years of study and four years after
+graduating. The candidates are examined in June, each year, and must
+be physically sound as well as mentally qualified. The course is very
+thorough, especially in higher mathematics. The cadets go into camp in
+July and August, and this is the pleasantest time to visit the point.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Enchanted place, hemmed in by mountain walls,
+  By bristling guns and Hudson's restful shore.
+
+  _Kenneth Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+The plans furnished by the architects of the new building will
+entirely change the appearance of the river front. The proposed
+massive structure crowning the cliff will "out-castle" the most
+massive fortifications of the walled cities of Europe. $7,500,000 has
+been appropriated to the work by Congress and the next generation will
+behold a new West Point.
+
+In the rebuilding of the Post the Cadet Chapel, the Riding Hall, the
+Administration Building and some of the Officers' Quarters will be
+removed. Most of the old important buildings, however, will not be
+disturbed, and the Chapel will be placed as it were "intact" on
+another site. The plan leaves untouched the Cadet Barracks, the Cadet
+Mess, the Memorial Hall, the Library and the Officers' Mess. The
+tower of the new Post Headquarters will rise high and massive several
+stories above the other structures and present in enduring symbol the
+republic standing four square and firm throughout the ages.
+
+In the "West Point Souvenir," prepared by W. H. Tripp, which every
+visitor will prize, are many suggestions and descriptions of value.
+From many visits and many sources we condense the following brevities:
+
+=The Cadet Barracks= was built in 1845-51 of native granite. In 1882
+the western wing was extended adding two divisions.
+
+=The Academy Building= is immediately opposite the Headquarters, of
+Massachusetts granite, erected in 1891-95, and cost about $500,000.
+It contains recitation and lecture rooms of all departments of
+instruction.
+
+=The Ordnance Museum= contains an interesting and extensive exhibit
+of ancient and modern firearms, also many valuable trophies from the
+Revolutionary, Mexican, Civil and Spanish wars.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Among the fair and lovely Highlands of the Hudson, shut in by deep
+    green heights and ruined forts, hemmed in all round with memories
+    of Washington, there could be no more appropriate ground for the
+    military school of America.
+
+    _Charles Dickens._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Cadet Chapel=, immediately north of the Administration Building,
+was erected in 1834. The chapel contains many valuable trophies of
+the Revolutionary and Mexican wars, including three Hessian and two
+British flags that were once the property of Washington. The walls
+have many memorial tablets and a famous "blank" of Arnold. Here also
+are several cannon surrendered at Saratoga, October 17, 1777.
+
+=The Administration Building= was completed in 1871.
+
+=The Library= adjoins the Cadet Chapel on the east, built of native
+granite in 1841, costing about $15,000. In 1900 the building was
+entirely reconstructed of fire-proof material by appropriation of
+$80,000. The exterior walls of the original building entered into the
+remodeled structure. The Library, founded in 1812, has about 50,000
+volumes.
+
+=The Gymnasium= adjoins the Barracks on the west, erected of native
+granite, costing $90,000.
+
+=Memorial Hall=, plainly seen from the Hudson, completed in 1899, is
+of Ionic architecture. The building cost $268,000, a legacy bequeathed
+by Gen. George W. Cullum, built of Milford granite for army trophies
+of busts, paintings and memorials. The bronze statute of Gen. John
+Sedgwick in the northwest angle of the plain was dedicated in 1868.
+The fine cenotaph of Italian marble was erected in 1885. It stands
+immediately in front of Memorial Hall.
+
+=Kosciusko's Monument= was erected in 1828. It stands in the northeast
+angle of Fort Clinton.
+
+=The Chain-Battery= walk runs from Kosciusko's Garden northward to
+Light House Point, near which was the battery that defended the chain
+across the river in the Revolution. The scene is of great beauty and
+has been known for many years by the name of "Flirtation Walk."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where Kosciusko dreamed and proud scenes bring
+  To mind the stormy days when Liberty
+  Was cradled at West Point--the Highlands' key.
+
+  _Kenneth Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: BATTLE MONUMENT, WEST POINT]
+
+=The Battle Monument=, on Trophy Point, is the most beautiful on the
+reservation--a column of victory in memory of 2,230 officers and
+soldiers of the regular army of the United States who were killed or
+died of wounds received in the war of the Rebellion. It is a monolith
+of polished granite surmounted by a figure of Fame. The shaft is 46
+feet in length, 5 feet in diameter, and said to be the largest piece
+of polished stone in the world. The cost of the work was $66,000. The
+site was dedicated June 15, 1864. The monument was dedicated in 1897.
+The address was by Justice Brewer.
+
+=Trophy Point=, on the north side of the plain, overlooking the river
+and commanding a majestic view of the Hudson and the city of Newburgh,
+has been likened by European travelers to a view on Lake Geneva.
+Here are the "swivel clevies" and 16 links of the old chain that was
+stretched across the river at this point. The whole chain, 1,700
+feet long, weighing 186 tons, was forged at the Sterling Iron Works,
+transported to New Windsor and there attached to log booms and floated
+down the river to this point.
+
+=Old Fort Putnam= was erected in 1778 by the 5th Massachusetts
+Regiment under the direction of Col. Rufus Putnam. It was originally
+constructed of logs and trees with stone walls on two sides to defend
+Fort Clinton on the plain below. It was garrisoned by 450 men, and had
+14 guns mounted. In 1787 it was dismantled, and the guns sold as
+old iron. Its brick arch casements overgrown with moss, vines, and
+shrubbery are crumbling away, but are well worth a visit. It is 495
+feet above the Hudson. A winding picturesque carriage road leads up
+from the plain, and the pedestrian can reach the summit in 20 minutes.
+On clear days the Catskill Mountains are visible.
+
+=Fort Clinton=, in the northeast angle of the plain, was built in
+1778 under the direction of the Polish soldier, Kosciusko. Sea Coast
+Battery is located on the north waterfront, Siege Battery on the slope
+of the hill below the Battle Monument. Targets for the guns on both
+batteries are on the hillside about a mile distant. Battery Knox,
+which overlooks the river, was rebuilt in 1874 on the site of an old
+revolutionary redoubt.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Bright are the moments link'd with thee,
+    Boast of a glory-hallowed land!
+  Hope of the valiant and the free,
+    Home of our youthful soldier band!
+
+  _Anonymous._
+
+       * * *
+
+While Fort Putnam was being built Washington was advised that Dubois's
+regiment was unfit to be ordered on duty, there being "not one blanket
+in the regiment. Very few have either a shoe or a shirt, and most of
+them have neither stockings, breeches, or overalls. Several companies
+of inlisted artificers are in the same situation, and unable to work
+in the field."
+
+What privations were here endured to establish our priceless liberty!
+It makes better Americans of us all to turn and re-turn the pages of
+the real Hudson, the most picturesque volume of the world's history.
+
+West Point during the Revolution was the Gibraltar of the Hudson
+and her forts were regarded almost impregnable. Fort Putnam will be
+rebuilt as an enduring monument to the bravery of American soldiers.
+
+The best way to study West Point, however, is not in voluminous
+histories or in the condensed pages of a guide book, but to visit it
+and see its real life, to wander amid its old associations, and
+ask, when necessary, intelligent questions, which are everywhere
+courteously answered. The view north seen in a summer evening, is one
+long to be remembered. In such an hour the writer's idea of the Hudson
+as an open book with granite pages and crystal book-mark is most
+completely realized as indicated in the Highland section of his poem,
+"The Hudson":
+
+  On either side these mountain glens
+    Lie open like a massive book,
+  Whose words were graved with iron pens,
+    And lead into the eternal rock:
+
+  Which evermore shall here retain
+    The annals time cannot erase,
+  And while these granite leaves remain
+    This crystal ribbon marks the place.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Under Spring's delicate marshalling every hill of the Highlands
+    took its own place, and the soft swells of ground stood back the
+    one from the other in more and more tender coloring.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING NORTH FROM WEST POINT BATTERY]
+
+=West Point to Newburgh.=
+
+The steamer passes too near the west bank to give a view of the
+magnificent plateau with parade ground and Government buildings, but
+on rounding the point a picture of marvelous beauty breaks at once
+upon the vision. On the left the massive indented ridge of Old Cro'
+Nest and Storm King, and on the right Mount Taurus, or Bull Hill, and
+Break Neck, while still further beyond toward the east sweeps the
+Fishkill range, sentineled by South Beacon, 1,625 feet in height, from
+whose summit midnight gleams aroused the countryside for leagues and
+scores of miles during those seven long years when men toiled
+and prayed for freedom. Close at hand on the right will be seen
+Constitution Island, formerly the home of Miss Susan Warner, who died
+in 1885, author of "Queechy" and the "Wide, Wide World." Here the
+ruins of the old fort are seen. The place was once called Martalaer's
+Rock Island. A chain was stretched across the river at this point to
+intercept the passage of boats up the Hudson, but proved ineffectual,
+like the one at Anthony's Nose, as the impetus of the boats snapped
+them both like cords.
+
+Some years ago, when the first delegation of Apache Indians was
+brought to Washington to sign a treaty of peace, the Indians were
+taken for an "outing" up the Hudson, by General O. O. Howard and Dr.
+Herman Bendell, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for Arizona. It is
+said that they noted with cold indifference the palaces along the
+river front: "the artistic terraces, the well-kept, sloping lawns, the
+clipped hedges and the ivy-grown walls made no impression on them, but
+when the magnificent picture of the Hudson above West Point revealed
+itself, painted by the rays of the sinking sun, these wild men stood
+erect, raised their hands high above their heads and uttered a
+monosyllabic expression of delight, which was more expressive than
+volumes of words."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The queenly Hudson circling at thy feet
+    Lingers to sing a song of joy and love,
+  Pouring her heart in rippling wavelets sweet,
+    Which sun-kissed glance up to thy throne above.
+
+  _Kenneth Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Sir Robert Temple also rises into rapture over the northern gate
+of the Highlands. "One of the fairest spectacles to be seen on the
+earth's surface; not on any other river or strait--not on Ganges or
+Indus, on the Dardanelles or the Bosphorus, on the Danube or the
+Rhine, on the Neva or the Nile--have I ever observed so fairy-like a
+scene as this on the Hudson. The only water-view to rival it is that
+of the Sea of Marmora, opposite Constantinople."
+
+Most people who visit our river, naturally desire a brilliant sunlit
+day for their journey, and with reason, but there are effects, in fog
+and rain and driving mist, only surpassed amid the Kyles of Bute,
+in Scotland. The traveler is fortunate, who sees the Hudson in many
+phases, and under various atmospheric conditions. A midnight view is
+peculiarly impressive when the mountain spirits of Rodman Drake answer
+to the call of his "Culprit Fay."
+
+  "'Tis the middle watch of a summer night,
+  The earth is dark but the heavens are bright,
+  The moon looks down on Old Cro' Nest--
+  She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast,
+  And seems his huge gray form to throw
+  In a silver cone on the wave below."
+
+It is said that the "Culprit Fay" was written by Drake in three days,
+and grew out of a discussion which took place during a stroll through
+this part of the Highlands between Irving, Halleck, Cooper and
+himself, as to the filling of a new country with old-time legends.
+Drake died in 1820. Halleck's lines to his memory are among the
+sweetest in our language. It is said that Halleck, on hearing Drake
+read his poem, "The American Flag," sprang to his feet, and in a
+semi-poetic transport, concluded the lines with burning words, which
+Drake afterwards appended:
+
+  "Forever float that standard sheet,
+    Where breathes the foe but falls before us,
+  With Freedom's soil beneath our feet,
+    And Freedom's banner streaming o'er us."
+
+       * * *
+
+  It floweth deep and strong and wide
+    This river of romance
+  Along whose banks on moonlight nights
+    The Highland fairies dance.
+
+  _E. A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+Just opposite Old Cro' Nest is the village of Cold Spring, on the east
+bank, which receives its name naturally from a cold spring in the
+vicinity; and it is interesting to remember that the famous Parrott
+guns were made at this place, and many implements of warfare during
+our civil strife. The foundry was started by Gouverneur Kemble in
+1828, and brought into wide renown by the inventive genius of Major
+Parrott. Cold Spring has a further distinction in having the first
+ground broken, about three miles from the river, for the greatest
+engineering enterprise of the age--"The Water Supply of the
+Catskills," when Mayor McClellan, in June, 1907, began the work with
+his silver shovel. A short distance north of the village is
+
+=Undercliff= (built by John C. Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamilton,
+but more particularly associated with the memory of the poet, Col.
+George P. Morris), lies, in fact, _under the cliff_ and shadow of
+Mount Taurus, and has a fine outlook upon the river and surrounding
+mountains. Standing on the piazza, we see directly in front of us Old
+Cro' Nest, and it was here that the poet wrote:
+
+  "Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands
+    Winds through the hills afar,
+  _Old Cro' Nest like a monarch stands
+    Crowned with a single star_."
+
+Few writers were better known in their own day than the poet of
+Undercliff, who wrote "My Mother's Bible," and "Woodman, Spare that
+Tree." On one occasion, when Mr. Russell was singing it at Boulogne,
+an old gentleman in the audience, moved by the simple and touching
+beauty of the lines,
+
+  "Forgive the foolish tear,
+     But let the old oak stand."
+
+rose and said: "I beg your pardon, but was the tree really spared?"
+"It was," answered Mr. Russell, and the old gentleman resumed his
+seat, amid the plaudits of the whole assembly. Truly
+
+  "Its glory and renown
+    Are spread o'er land and sea."
+
+       * * *
+
+  When freedom from her mountain height
+    Unfurled her standard to the air,
+  She tore the azure robe of night
+    And set the stars of glory there.
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+The first European name given to Storm King was Klinkersberg (so
+called by Hendrick Hudson, from its glistening and broken rock). It
+was styled by the Dutch "Butter Hill," from its shape, and, with
+Sugar Loaf on the eastern side below the point, helped to set out the
+tea-table for the Dunderberg goblins. It was christened by Willis,
+"Storm King," and may well be regarded the El Capitan of the
+Highlands. Breakneck is opposite, on the east side, where St.
+Anthony's Face was blasted away. In this mountain solitude there was a
+shade of reason in giving that solemn countenance of stone the name
+of St. Anthony, as a good representative of monastic life; and, by a
+quiet sarcasm, the full-length nose below was probably suggested.
+
+The mountain opposite Cro' Nest is "Bull Hill," or more classically,
+"Mt. Taurus." It is said that there was formerly a wild bull in these
+mountains, which had failed to win the respect and confidence of the
+inhabitants, so the mountaineers organized a hunt and drove him over
+the hill, whose name stands a monument to his exit. The point at the
+foot of "Mount Taurus" is known as "Little Stony Point."
+
+The Highlands now trend off to the northeast, and we see North Beacon,
+or Grand Sachem Mountain, and Old Beacon about half a mile to the
+north. The mountains were relit with beacon-fires in 1883, in honor of
+the centennials of Fishkill and Newburgh, and were plainly seen sixty
+miles distant.
+
+This section was known by the Indians as "Wequehache," or, "the Hill
+Country," and the entire range was called by the Indians "the endless
+hills," a name not inappropriate to this mountain bulwark reaching
+from New England to the Carolinas. As pictured in our "Long Drama,"
+given at the Newburgh centennial of the disbanding of the American
+Army,
+
+  That ridge along our eastern coast,
+    From Carolina to the Sound,
+  Opposed its front to Britain's host,
+    And heroes at each pass were found:
+
+  A vast primeval palisade,
+    With bastions bold and wooded crest,
+  A bulwark strong by nature made
+    To guard the valley of the west.
+
+  Along its heights the beacons gleamed,
+    It formed the nation's battle-line,
+  Firm as the rocks and cliffs where dreamed
+    The soldier-seers of Palestine.
+
+It was also believed by the Indians that, in ancient days, "before the
+Hudson poured its waters from the lakes, the Highlands formed one vast
+prison, within whose rocky bosom the omnipotent Manitou confined
+the rebellious spirits who repined at his control. Here, bound in
+adamantine chains, or jammed in rifted pines, or crushed by ponderous
+rocks, they groaned for many an age. At length the conquering Hudson,
+in its career toward the ocean, burst open their prison-house, rolling
+its tide triumphantly through the stupendous ruins."
+
+       * * *
+
+    The Highlands are here moulded in all manner of heights and
+    hollows; sometimes reaching up abruptly to twelve or fifteen
+    hundred feet, and again stretching away in long gorges and gentle
+    declivities.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Pollopel's Island=, east of the steamer's route, was once regarded as
+a haunted spot, but its only witches are said to be snakes too lively
+to be enchanted. In old times, the "new hands" on the sloops were
+unceremoniously dipped at this place, so as to be proof-christened
+against the goblins of the Highlands. Here also another useless
+"impediment" was put across the Hudson in 1779, a chevaux-de-frise
+with iron-pointed spikes thirty feet long, hidden under water,
+strongly secured by cribs of stone. This, however, was not broken and
+would probably have done effective work if some traitor to the cause
+had not guided the British captains through an unprotected passage.
+The State at one time contemplated the purchase of this island on
+which to erect a statue to Hendrick Hudson. For some reason Governor
+Flower vetoed the bill. It is now owned by Mr. Francis Bannerman,
+an energetic business man, who perhaps some day may see his way to
+promote a monument to Hudson on the splendid pedestal which nature has
+already completed.
+
+       * * *
+
+  What sights and sounds at which the world has wondered
+    Within these wild ravines have had their birth!
+  Young Freedom's cannon from these glens have thundered
+    And sent their startling echoes o'er the earth.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Cornwall-on-the-Hudson.=--This locality N. P. Willis selected as the
+most picturesque point on the Hudson. The village lies in a lovely
+valley, which Mr. Beach has styled in his able description, as "an
+offshoot of the Ramapo, up which the storm-winds of the ocean drive,
+laden with the purest and freshest air."
+
+=Idlewild.=--Where Willis spent the last years of his life is a
+charming spot and rich with poetic memories. E. P. Roe also chose
+Cornwall for his home. Lovers of the Hudson are indebted to Edward
+Bok for his realistic sketch of an afternoon visit. The "Idlewild" of
+to-day is still green to the memory of the poet. Since Willis' death
+the place has passed in turn into various hands, until now it belongs
+to a wealthy New York lawyer, who has spent thousands of dollars on
+the house and grounds. The old house still stands, and here and there
+in the grounds remains a suggestion of the time of Willis. The famous
+pine-drive leading to the mansion, along which the greatest literary
+lights of the Knickerbocker period passed during its palmy days, still
+remains intact, the dense growth of the trees only making the road the
+more picturesque. The brook, at which Willis often sat, still runs on
+through the grounds as of yore. In the house, everything is remodeled
+and remodernized. The room from whose windows Willis was wont to look
+over the Hudson, and where he did most of his charming writing, is now
+a bedchamber, modern in its every appointment, and suggesting its age
+only by the high ceiling and curious mantel. Only a few city blocks
+from "Idlewild" is the house where lived E. P. Roe, the author of so
+many popular novels, as numerous, almost, in number as the several
+hundreds of thousands of circulation which they secured. There are
+twenty-three acres to it in all, and, save what was occupied by the
+house, every inch of ground was utilized by the novelist in his hobby
+for fine fruits and rare flowers. Now nothing remains of the beauty
+once so characteristic of the place. For four years the grounds have
+missed the care of their creator. Where once were the novelist's
+celebrated strawberry beds, are now only grass and weeds. Everything
+is grown over, only a few trees remaining as evidence that the grounds
+were ever known for their cultivated products. A large board sign
+announces the fact that the entire place is for sale.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The river narrows at their proud behest
+    And creeps more darkly as it deeper flows,
+  And fitful winds swirl through the long defile
+    Where the great Highlands keep their stern repose.
+
+  _E.A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+Cornwall has been for many years a favorite resort of the Hudson
+Valley and her roofs shelter in the summer season many thousand
+people. The road completed in 1876, from Cornwall to West Point, gives
+one a pleasant acquaintance with the wooded Highlands. It passes over
+the plateau of Cro' Nest and winds down the Cornwall slope of Storm
+King. The tourist who sees Cro' Nest and Storm King only from the
+river, has but little idea of their extent. Cro' Nest plateau is about
+one thousand feet above the parade ground of West Point, and overlooks
+it as a rocky balcony. These mountains, with their wonderful lake
+system, are, in fact, the "Central Park" of the Hudson. Within a
+radius of ten miles are clustered over forty lakes, and we very much
+doubt if one person in a thousand ever heard of them. A convenient
+map giving the physical geography of this section would be of great
+service to the mountain visitor. The Cornwall pier, built by the _New
+York, Ontario and Western Railroad_ in 1892 for coal and freight
+purposes, will be seen on our left near the Cornwall dock. This
+railroad leaves the _West Shore_ at this point and forms a pleasant
+tourist route to the beautiful inland villages and resorts of the
+State.
+
+       * * *
+
+    A solitary gleam struck on the base of the Highland peak, and
+    moved gracefully up its side, until reaching the summit, it stood
+    for a minute forming a crown of glory to the sombre pile.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Newburgh to Poughkeepsie.=
+
+=Newburgh=, 60 miles from New York. Approaching the city of Newburgh,
+we see a building of rough stone, one story high, with steep
+roof--known as Washington's Headquarters. For several years prior to,
+and during the Revolution, this was the home of Jonathan Hasbrouck,
+known far and wide for business integrity and loyalty to liberty. This
+house was built by him, apparently, in decades; the oldest part, the
+northeast corner, in 1750; the southeast corner, in 1760, and the
+remaining half in 1770. It fronted west on the king's highway, now
+known as Liberty Street, with a garden and family burial plot to the
+east, lying between the house and the river. It was restored as nearly
+as possible to its original character on its purchase by the State
+in 1849, and it is now the treasure-house of many memories, and of
+valuable historic relics. A descriptive catalogue, prepared for
+the trustees, under act of May 11, 1874, by a patient and careful
+historian, =Dr. E. M. Ruttenber=, will be of service to the visitor and
+can be obtained on the grounds. The following facts, condensed from
+his admirable historical sketch, are of practical interest:
+
+"=Washington's Headquarters=, or the Hasbrouck house, is situated in
+the southeast part of the city, constructed of rough stone, one story
+high, fifty-six feet front by forty-six feet in depth, and located on
+what was originally Lot No. 2, of the German Patent, with title vested
+in Heman (Herman?) Schoneman, a native of the Palatinate of Germany,
+who sold, in 1721, to James Alexander, who subsequently sold to
+Alexander Colden and Burger Meynders, by whom it was conveyed to
+Jonathan Hasbrouck, the grandson of Abraham Hasbrouck, one of the
+Huguenot founders of New Paltz. He was a man of marked character; of
+fine physique, being six feet and four inches in height; was colonel
+of the militia of the district, and in frequent service in guarding
+the passes of the Highlands. His occupation was that of a farmer, a
+miller, and a merchant. He died in 1780. The first town meeting for
+the Precinct of Newburgh was held here on the first Tuesday in April,
+1763, when its owner was elected supervisor. Public meetings continued
+to be held here for several years. During the early part of the
+Revolution, the committee of safety, of the precinct, assembled here;
+here military companies were organized, and here the regiment which
+Colonel Hasbrouck commanded assembled, to move hence to the defence of
+the Highland forts."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Sacred in this mansion hoary,
+    'Neath its roof-tree long ago
+  Dwelt the father of our glory,
+    He whose name appalled the foe.
+
+  _Mary E. Monell._
+
+       * * *
+
+From this brief outline, it will be seen that the building is
+singularly associated with the history of the Old as well as of the
+New World: with the former through the original grantee of the land,
+recalling the wars which devastated the Palatinate and sent its
+inhabitants, fugitive and penniless, to other parts of Europe and to
+America; through his successor with the Huguenots of France, and,
+through the public meetings which assembled here, and especially
+through its occupation by Washington, with the struggle for American
+independence.
+
+In the spring of 1782 Washington made this building his headquarters,
+and remained here until August 18, 1783, on the morning of which day
+he took his departure from Newburgh. At this place he passed through
+the most trying period of the Revolution: the year of inactivity on
+the part of Congress, of distress throughout the country, and of
+complaint and discontent in the army, the latter at one time bordering
+on revolt among the officers and soldiers.
+
+It was at this place, on the 22d day of May, 1782, that Colonel
+Nicola, on behalf of himself and others, proposed that Washington
+should become king, for the "national advantage," a proposal that was
+received by Washington with "surprise and astonishment," "viewed with
+abhorrence," and "reprehended with severity." The temptation which was
+thus repelled by Washington, had its origin with that portion of the
+officers of the army, who while giving their aid heartily to secure
+an independent government, nevertheless believed that that government
+should be a monarchy. The rejection of the proposition by Washington
+was not the only significant result. The rank and file of the army
+rose up against it, and around their camp-fires chanted their purpose
+in Billings' song, "No King but God!" From that hour a republic became
+the only possible form of government for the enfranchised Colonies.
+
+       * * *
+
+  With silvered locks and eyes grown dim,
+    As victory's sun proclaimed the morn,
+  He pushed aside the diadem
+    With stern rebuke and patriot scorn.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+The inattention of Congress to the payment of the army, during the
+succeeding winter, gave rise to an equally important episode in the
+history of the war. On the 10th of March, 1783, the first of the
+famous "Newburgh Letters" was issued, in which, by implication at
+least, the army was advised to revolt. The letter was followed by an
+anonymous manuscript notice for a public meeting of officers on
+the succeeding Tuesday. Washington was equal to the emergency. He
+expressed his disapprobation of the whole proceeding, and with great
+wisdom, requested the field officers, with one commissioned officer
+from each company, to meet on the Saturday preceding the time
+appointed by the anonymous notice. He attended this meeting and
+delivered before it one of the most touching and effective addresses
+on record. When he closed his remarks, the officers unanimously
+resolved "to reject with disdain" the infamous proposition contained
+in the anonymous address.
+
+The meeting of officers referred to was held at the New Building or
+"Temple" as it was called, in New Windsor, but Washington's address
+was written at his headquarters. The "Newburgh Letters," to which it
+was a reply, were written by Major John Armstrong, aid-de-camp to
+General Gates. The anonymously called meeting was not held. The
+motives of its projectors we will not discuss; but its probable
+effect, had it been successful, must be considered in connection
+with Washington's encomium of the result of the meeting which he had
+addressed: "Had this day been wanting, the world had never known the
+height to which human greatness is capable of attaining."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Freemen pause! this ground is holy,
+    Noble spirits suffered here,
+  Tardy Justice, marching slowly,
+    Tried their faith from year to year.
+
+  _Mary E. Monell._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Serene and calm in peril's hour,
+    An honest man without pretence,
+  He stands supreme to teach the power
+    And brilliancy of common-sense.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Notice of the cessation of hostilities was proclaimed to the army
+April 19, 1783. It was received with great rejoicings by the troops
+at Newburgh, and under Washington's order, was the occasion of
+an appropriate celebration. In the evening, signal beacon lights
+proclaimed the joyous news to the surrounding country. Thirteen
+cannon came pealing up from Fort Putnam, which were followed by a
+_feu-de-joie_ rolling along the lines. The mountain sides resounded
+and echoed like tremendous peals of thunder, and the flashing from
+thousands of fire-arms, in the darkness of the evening, was like unto
+vivid flashes of lightning from the clouds. From this time furloughs
+were freely granted to soldiers who wished to return to their homes,
+and when the army was finally disbanded those absent were discharged
+from service without being required to return. That portion of the
+army, which remained at Newburgh on guard duty, after the removal of
+the main body to West Point in June, were participants here in the
+closing scenes of the disbandment, when, on the morning of November
+3, 1783, "the proclamation of Congress and the farewell orders of
+Washington were read, and the last word of command given." From
+Monell's "Handbook of Washington's Headquarters" we also quote a
+general description of the house and its appearance when occupied by
+the commander-in-chief. "Washington's family consisted of himself, his
+wife, and his aid-de-camp, Major Tench Tilghman. The large room, which
+is entered from the piazza on the east, known as 'the room with seven
+doors and one window,' was used as the dining and sitting-room. The
+northeast room was Washington's bedroom and the one adjoining it on
+the left was occupied by him as a private office. The family room was
+that in the southeast; the kitchen was the southwest room; the parlor
+the northwest room. Between the latter and the former was the hall and
+staircase and the storeroom, so called for having been used by Colonel
+Hasbrouck and subsequently by his widow as a store. The parlor was
+mainly reserved for Mrs. Washington and her guests. A Mrs. Hamilton,
+whose name frequently appears in Washington's account book, was his
+housekeeper, and in the early part of the war made a reputation for
+her zeal in his service, which Thacher makes note of and Washington
+acknowledges in his reference to an exchange of salt. There was little
+room for the accommodation of guests, but it is presumed that the
+chambers were reserved for that purpose. Washington's guests, however,
+were mainly connected with the army and had quarters elsewhere. Even
+Lafayette had rooms at DeGrove's Hotel when a visitor at headquarters.
+
+"The building is now substantially in the condition it was during
+Washington's occupation of it. The same massive timbers span the
+ceiling; the old fire-place with its wide-open chimney is ready for
+the huge back-logs of yore; the seven doors are in their places;
+the rays of the morning sun still stream through the one window; no
+alteration in form has been made in the old piazza--the adornments on
+the walls, if such the ancient hostess had, have alone been changed
+for souvenirs of the heroes of the nation's independence. In
+presence of these surroundings, it requires but little effort of the
+imagination to restore the departed guests. Forgetting not that this
+was Washington's private residence, rather than a place for the
+transaction of public business, we may, in the old sitting-room
+respread the long oaken table, listen to the blessing invoked on the
+morning meal, hear the cracking of joints, and the mingled hum of
+conversation. The meal dispensed, Mrs. Washington retires to appear at
+her flower beds or in her parlor to receive her morning calls. Colfax,
+the captain of the life-guard, enters to receive the orders of the
+day--perhaps a horse and guard for Washington to visit New Windsor,
+or a barge for Fishkill or West Point, is required; or it may be
+Washington remains at home and at his writing desk conducts his
+correspondence, or dictates orders for army movements. The old
+arm-chair, sitting in the corner yonder, is still ready for its former
+occupant.
+
+"The dinner hour of five o'clock approaches; the guests of the day
+have already arrived. Steuben, the iron drill-master and German
+soldier of fortune, converses with Mrs. Washington. He had reduced
+the simple marksmen of Bunker Hill to the discipline of the armies
+of Europe and tested their efficiency in the din of battle. He has
+leisure now, and scarcely knows how to find employment for his active
+mind. He is telling his hostess, in broken German-English, of the
+whale (it proved to be an eel) he had caught in the river. Hear his
+hostess laugh! And that is the voice of Lafayette, relating perhaps
+his adventures in escaping from France, or his mishap in attempting
+to attend Mrs. Knox's last party. Wayne, of Stony Point; Gates, of
+Saratoga; Clinton, the Irish-blooded Governor of New York, and their
+compatriots--we may place them all at times beside our _Pater Patriae_
+in this old room, and hear amid the mingled hum his voice declare:
+'Happy, thrice happy, shall they be pronounced hereafter, who have
+contributed anything, who have performed the meanest office in
+erecting this stupendous fabric of Freedom and Empire on the broad
+basis of independency; who have assisted in protecting the rights of
+human nature, and in establishing an asylum for the poor and oppressed
+of all nations and religions.'
+
+"In France, some fifty years after the Revolution, Marbois reproduced,
+as an entertainment for Lafayette, then an old man, this old
+sitting-room and its table scene. From his elegant saloon he conducted
+his guests, among whom were several Americans, to the room which he
+had prepared. There was a large open fire-place, and plain oaken
+floors; the ceiling was supported with large beams and whitewashed;
+there were the seven small-sized doors and one window with heavy sash
+and small panes of glass. The furniture was plain and unlike any then
+in use. Down the centre of the room was an oaken table covered with
+dishes of meat and vegetables, decanters and bottles of wine, and
+silver mugs and small wine glasses. The whole had something the
+appearance of a Dutch kitchen. While the guests were looking around in
+surprise at this strange procedure, the host, addressing himself to
+them said, 'Do you know where we now are?' Lafayette looked around,
+and, as if awakening from a dream, he exclaimed, 'Ah! the seven doors
+and one window, and the silver camp goblets such as the Marshals of
+France used in my youth. We are at Washington's Headquarters on the
+Hudson fifty years ago.'"
+
+       * * *
+
+  One window looking toward the east;
+    Seven doors wide-open every side;
+  That room revered proclaims at least
+    An invitation free and wide.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+    The goodness which characterizes Washington is felt
+    by all around him, but the confidence he inspires is
+    never familiar; it springs from a profound esteem for
+    his virtues and a great opinion of his talents.
+
+    _Marquis de Chastellux._
+
+       * * *
+
+    From these headquarters Washington promulgated his
+    memorable order for the cessation of hostilities and
+    recalled the fact that its date, April 18th, was the anniversary
+    of the battles of Lexington and Concord.
+
+    _Thomas F. Bayard._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Hasbrouck family returned to their old home, made historic for all
+time, after the disbandment of the army and remained until it became
+the property of the State. On July 4, 1850, the place was formally
+dedicated by Major-General Winfield Scott, dedicatory address
+delivered by John J. Monell, an ode by Mary E. Monell, and an oration
+by Hon. John W. Edmunds. The centennial of the disbanding of the army
+was observed here October 18, 1883. After the noonday procession
+of 10,000 men in line, three miles in length, with governors and
+representative people from almost every State, 150,000 people, "ten
+acres" square, gathered in the historic grounds. Senator Bayard, of
+Delaware, was chairman of the day. Hon. William M. Evarts was the
+orator, and modestly speaking in the third person, Wallace Bruce,
+author of this handbook, was the poet. No one there gathered can ever
+forget that afternoon of glorious sunlight or the noble pageant. The
+great mountains, which had so frequently been the bulwark of liberty
+and a place of refuge for our fathers, were all aglow with beauty, as
+if, like Horeb's bush, they too would open their lips in praise and
+thanksgiving. One of the closing sentences of Senator Evarts' address
+is unsurpassed in modern or ancient eloquence: "These rolling years
+have shown growth, forever growth, and strength, increasing strength,
+and wealth and numbers ever expanding, while intelligence, freedom,
+art, culture and religion have pervaded and ennobled all this material
+greatness. Wide, however, as is our land and vast our population
+to-day, these are not the limits to the name, the fame, the power of
+the life and character of Washington. If it could be imagined that
+this nation, rent by disastrous feuds, broken in its unity, should
+ever present the miserable spectacle of the undefiled garments of his
+fame parted among his countrymen, while for the seamless vesture
+of his virtue they cast lots--if this unutterable shame, if this
+immeasurable crime, should overtake this land and this people, be sure
+that no spot in the wide world is inhospitable to his glory, and
+no people in it but rejoices in the influence of his power and his
+virtue." In his lofty sentences the old heroes seemed to pass again
+in review before us, and the daily life of that heroic band, when
+Congress sat inactive and careless of its needs until the camp rose in
+mutiny, happily checked, however, by the great commander in a single
+sentence. It will be remembered that Washington began to read his
+manuscript without glasses, but was compelled to stop, and, as he
+adjusted them to his eyes, he said, "You see, gentlemen, that I have
+not only grown gray, but blind, in your service." It is needless to
+say that the "anonymously called" meeting was not held.
+
+  He quelled the half-paid mutineers,
+    And bound them closer to the cause;
+  His presence turned their wrath to tears,
+    Their muttered threats to loud applause.
+
+  The great Republic had its birth
+    That hour beneath the army's wing,
+  Whose leader taught by native worth
+    The man is grander than the king.
+
+       * * *
+
+  We hear the anthem once again,--
+    "No king but God!"--to guide our way,
+  Like that of old--"Good-will to men"--
+    Unto the shrine where freedom lay.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+Near at hand, and also plainly seen from the river, is the new Tower
+of Victory, fifty-three feet high, costing $67,000. It contains a
+life-size statue of Washington, in the act of sheathing his sword,
+with bronze figures representing the rifle, the artillery, the line
+officer and dragoon service of our country, with a bronze tablet on
+the east wall bearing the inscription: "This monument was erected
+under the authority of the Congress of the United States, and of
+the State of New York, in commemoration of the disbandment, under
+proclamation of the Continental Congress, of October 18, 1783, of
+the armies, by whose patriotic and military virtue, our national
+independence and sovereignty were established." The Belvidere, reached
+by a spiral staircase, is capable of holding one hundred persons,
+and the view therefrom takes in a wide extent of panoramic beauty.
+Newburgh has not only reason to be proud of her historical landmarks
+and her beautiful situation, but also of her commercial prosperity.
+In olden times, it was a great centre for all the western and
+southwestern district, farmers and lumbermen coming from long
+distances in the interior. Soon after the Revolution she was made a
+village, when there were only two others in the State. Before the days
+of the Erie canal, this was the shortest route to Lake Erie, and was
+made by stage _via_ Ithaca. With increasing facilities of railway
+communication, she has also easily held her own against all commercial
+rivals. The _West Shore Railroad_, the _Erie Railway_, the _New York
+Central_ and the _New York and New England_ across the river, and
+several Hudson river steamers, make her peculiarly central. The city
+is favored with beautiful driveways, amid charming country seats.
+The New Paltz road passes the site where General Wayne had his
+headquarters, also, the "Balm of Gilead tree," which gave the name of
+Balmville to the suburban locality. Another road affords a glimpse of
+the "Vale of Avoca," named after the well-known glen in Ireland, of
+which Tom Moore so sweetly sung. Here, some say, a treacherous attempt
+was made on the life of Washington, but it is not generally credited
+by critical historians. As the steamer leaves the dock, and we look
+back upon the factories and commercial houses along the water front,
+crowned by noble streets of residence, with adjoining plateau,
+sweeping back in a vast semi-circle as a beautiful framework to
+the wide bay, we do not wonder that Hendrick Hudson established a
+prophetic record by writing "a very pleasant place to build a town."
+
+[Illustration: WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, NEWBURGH]
+
+       * * *
+
+    Washington! Brave without temerity; laborious without
+    ambition; generous without prodigality; noble
+    without pride; virtuous without severity.
+
+    _Marquis de Chastellux._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Fishkill-on-the-Hudson.=--Directly opposite Newburgh, one mile north
+of Denning's Point (formerly the eastern dock of the Newburgh ferry),
+rises on a pleasant slope, the newer Fishkill of this region. A little
+more than a mile from the landing, is the manufacturing village
+of Matteawan, connected by an electric railroad. Old Fishkill, or
+Fishkill Village, is about four miles inland, charmingly located,
+under the slope of the Fishkill range. This was once the largest
+village in Dutchess county, and was chosen for its secure position
+above the Highlands, as the place to which "should be removed the
+treasury and archives of the State, also, as the spot for holding the
+subsequent sessions of the Provincial Conventions," after they were
+driven from New York. A historical sketch of the town, by T. Van Wyck
+Brinkerhoff, presents many things of interest. "Its history, anterior
+to 1682, belongs to the red men of the valley, and, more than any
+other spot, this was the home of their priests. Here they performed
+their incantations and administered at their altars." According to
+Broadhead, "It would seem that the neighboring Indians esteemed
+the peltries from Fishkill as charmed by the incantations of the
+aboriginal enchanters who lived along its banks, and the beautiful
+scenery in which those ancient priests of the Highlands dwelt, is
+thus invested with new poetic associations." Dunlap speaks of them as
+"occupying the Highlands, called by them Kittatenny Mountains. Their
+principal settlement, designated Wiccapee, was situated in the
+vicinity of Anthony's Nose. Here too, lived the Wappingers, a war-like
+and brave tribe, extending themselves along the Matteawan, along
+the Wappingers Kill and tributaries, along the Hudson, and to the
+northward, across the river into Ulster County. These and other tribes
+to the south, west and north, were parts of and tributaries to the
+great Iroquois confederation--the marvel for all time to come of a
+system of government so wise and politic, and for men so eloquent and
+daring. The Wappingers took part in the Dutch and Indian wars of 1643
+and 1663, led on by their war chiefs, Wapperonk and Aepjen. A few
+Indian names are still remaining, and a few traces of their history
+still left standing. The name Matteawan is Indian, signifying 'Good
+Beaver Grounds,' and the name Wappinger still speaks of those who
+once owned the soil along the Hudson. Their name for the stream was
+Mawanassigh, or Mawenawasigh. Wiccapee and Shenondoah are also Indian
+names of places in Fishkill Hook, and East Fishkill, and Apoquague,
+still surviving as the name of a country postoffice, was the Indian
+style of what is now called Silver Lake, signifying 'round pond.' In
+Fishkill Hook until quite recently, there were traces of their burial
+grounds, and many apple and pear trees are still left standing, set
+there by the hands of the red man before the country had been occupied
+by Europeans."
+
+       * * *
+
+  For here amid these hills he once kept court--
+  He who his country's eagle taught to soar
+  And fired those stars which shine o'er every shore.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+To return to Brinkerhoff, "The first purchase of land in the county
+of Dutchess, was made in the town of Fishkill. On the 8th day
+of February, 1682, a license was given by Thomas Dongan,
+Commander-in-chief of the Province of New York, to Francis Rombout and
+Gulian Ver Planck, to purchase a tract of land from the Indians. Under
+this license, they bought, on the 8th day of August, 1683, of the
+Wappinger Indians, all their right, title and interest to a certain
+large tract of land, afterward known as the Rombout precinct. Gulian
+Ver Planck died before the English patent was issued by Governor
+Dongan; Stephanus Van Cortland was then joined in it with Rombout,
+and Jacobus Kipp substituted as the representative of the children of
+Gulian Ver Planck. On the 17th day of October, 1685, letters patent,
+under the broad seal of the Province of New York, were granted by King
+James the Second, and the parties to whom these letters patent were
+granted, became from that time the undisputed proprietors of the soil.
+There were 76,000 acres of these lands lying in Fishkill, and other
+towns taken from the patent, and 9,000 acres lying in the limits of
+the town of Poughkeepsie. Besides paying the natives, as a further
+consideration for the privilege of their license, they were to pay
+the commander-in-chief, Thomas Dongan, six bushels of good and
+merchantable winter wheat every year." In the Book of Patents, at
+Albany, vol. 5, page 72, will be found the deed, of special interest
+to the historian and antiquarian.
+
+       * * *
+
+    It was a dainty day, and it grew more dainty towards
+    its close as the lights and shadows stretched athwart
+    our Highland landscape.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+"After the evacuation of New York, in the fall of 1776, and the
+immediate loss of the seaboard, with Long Island and part of New
+Jersey, Fishkill was at once crowded with refugees, as they were then
+called, who sought, by banishing themselves from their homes on Long
+Island and New York, to escape imprisonment and find safety here. The
+interior army route to Boston passed through this place. Army stores,
+workshops, ammunition, etc., were established and deposited here." The
+Marquis De Chastellux, in his travels in North America, says: "This
+town, in which there are not more than fifty houses in the space of
+two miles, has been long the principal depot of the American army.
+It is there they have placed their magazines, their hospitals, their
+workshops, etc., but all of these form a town in themselves, composed
+of handsome large barracks, built in the woods at the foot of the
+mountains: for the American army, like the Romans in many respects,
+have hardly any other winter quarters than wooden towns, or barricaded
+camps, which may be compared to the 'hiemalia' of the Romans." These
+barracks were situated on the level plateau between the residence of
+Mr. Cotheal and the mountains. Portions of these grounds were no
+doubt then covered with timber. Guarding the approach from the south,
+stockades and fortifications were erected on commanding positions, and
+regularly manned by detachments from the camp.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Unto him and them all owing
+    Peace as stable as our hills,
+  Plenty like yon river flowing
+    To the sea from thousand rills.
+
+  _Mary E. Monell._
+
+       * * *
+
+"Upon one of these hills, rising out of this mountain pass-way, very
+distinct lines of earthworks are yet apparent. Near the residence of
+Mr. Sidney E. Van Wyck, by the large black-walnut trees, and east
+of the road near the base of the mountain, was the soldiers' burial
+ground. Many a poor patriot soldier's bones lie mouldering there; and
+if we did but know how many, we would be startled at the number, for
+this almost unknown and unnoticed burial ground holds not a few, but
+hundreds of those who gave their lives for the cause of American
+independence. Some fifteen years ago, an old lady who had lived near
+the village until after she had grown to womanhood, told the writer
+that after the battle of White Plains she went with her father through
+the streets of Fishkill, and in places between the Dutch and Episcopal
+churches, the dead were piled up like cord-wood. Those who died from
+wounds in battle or from sickness in hospital were buried there. Many
+of these were State militiamen, and it seems no more than just that
+the State should make an appropriation to erect a suitable monument
+over this spot. Rather than thus remain for another century, if a
+rough granite boulder were rolled down from the mountain side and
+inscribed: 'To the unknown and unnumbered dead of the American
+Revolution,' that rough unhewn stone would tell to the stranger and
+the passer-by, more to the praise and fame of our native town than
+any of us shall be able to add to it by works of our own; for it is
+doubtful whether any spot in the State has as many of the buried dead
+of the Revolution as this quiet burial yard in our old town!" Here
+also on June 2, 1883, was observed "The Fishkill Centennial," and
+few of our centennials have been celebrated amid objects of greater
+revolutionary interest. Near at hand, to quote from the official
+report of the proceedings, is "Denning's Point where Washington
+frequently, while waiting, tied his horses under those magnificent
+'Washington oaks,' as he passed backward and forward from New Windsor
+and Newburgh to Fishkill. Near by is the Verplanck House, Baron
+Steuben's old headquarters. On Spy Hill and Continental Hill troops
+were quartered. At Matteawan Sackett lived, and there is the Teller
+House built by Madame Brett, where officers frequently resorted, and
+there Yates dwelt when he presided over the legislative body while it
+held its sessions in Fishkill, that had much to do with forming our
+first State Constitution. Baron Steuben was for a while in the old
+Scofield House at Glenham. In Fishkill are those renowned old churches
+where legislative sittings were held, which were also used as
+hospitals for the sick, and one of which is otherwise known as being
+the place where Enoch Crosby, the spy, was imprisoned, and from which
+he escaped. Near at hand the Wharton House (Van Wyck House), forever
+associated with him, and made famous by Cooper's 'Spy.' In the
+Brinckerhoff House above, Lafayette was dangerously ill with a fever,
+and there, at Swartwoutville, Washington was often a visitor. Whenever
+Washington was at Fishkill he made Colonel Brinckerhoff's his
+headquarters. He occupied the bedroom back of the parlor, which
+remains the same 'excepting a door that opens into the hall, which has
+been cut through.' It is an old-fashioned house built of stone, with
+the date 1738 on one of its gables." With the story of Fishkill we
+close the largest page relating to our revolutionary heroes, and leave
+behind us the Old Beacon Mountains which forever sentinel and proclaim
+their glory.
+
+       * * *
+
+    No prouder sentinel of glory than the old Beacon
+    Mountain whose watch-fire guarded the valley and spoke
+    its rallying message to the Catskills and Berkshires and
+    the very foothills of the Green Mountains.
+
+    _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+    The sun touched mountains in some places were of
+    a bright orange and the shadows between them deep
+    neutral tint or blue. And the river apparently had
+    stopped running to reflect.
+
+    _Susan Warner._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Low Point=, or Carthage, is a small village on the east bank, about
+four miles north of Fishkill. It was called by the early inhabitants
+Low Point, as New Hamburgh, two miles north, was called High Point.
+Opposite Carthage is Roseton, once known as Middlehope, and above this
+we see the residence of Bancroft Davis and the Armstrong Mansion. We
+now behold on the west bank a large flat rock, covered with cedars,
+recently marked by a lighthouse, the--
+
+=Duyvel's Dans Kammer.=--Here Hendrick Hudson, in his voyage up the
+river, witnessed an Indian pow-wow--the first recorded fireworks in a
+country which has since delighted in rockets and pyrotechnic displays.
+Here, too, in later years, tradition relates the sad fate of a wedding
+party. It seems that a Mr. Hans Hansen and a Miss Kathrina Van
+Voorman, with a few friends, were returning from Albany, and
+disregarding the old Indian prophecy, were all slain:--
+
+  "For none that visit the Indian's den
+  Return again to the haunts of men.
+  The knife is their doom! O sad is their lot!
+  Beware, beware of the blood-stained spot!"
+
+Some years ago this spot was also searched for the buried treasures
+of Captain Kidd, and we know of one river pilot who still dreams
+semi-yearly of there finding countless chests of gold.
+
+Two miles above, on the east side, we pass New Hamburgh, at the mouth
+of =Wappingers Creek=. The name Wappinger had its origin from Wabun,
+east, and Acki, land. This tribe, a sub-tribe of the Mahicans, held
+the east bank of the river, from Manhattan to Roeliffe Jansen's Creek,
+which empties into the Hudson near Livingston, a few miles south of
+Catskill Station on the _Hudson River Railroad_. Passing Hampton
+Point we see Marlborough, the head-centre of a large fruit industry,
+delightfully located in the sheltered pass of the Maunekill. On the
+east bank will be noticed several fine residences: "Uplands," "High
+Cliff," "Cedars," and "Netherwood." Milton is now at hand on the west
+bank, with its cosy landing and _West Shore Railroad_ station. This
+pleasant village was one of the loved spots of J. G. Holland, and the
+home of Mary Hallock Foote, until a modern "Hiawatha" took our Hudson
+"Minnehaha" to far away western mountains.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The tulip tree majestic stirs
+    Far down the water's marge beside,
+  And now awake the nearer firs,
+    And toss their ample branches wide.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Springbrook=, opposite Milton, a place of historic interest, near the
+river bank, was bought by Theophilus Anthony before the Revolution.
+Some of the links of the famous chain in the Highlands were forged
+here in 1777. When the British ships ascended the river the family
+fled to the woods, all but an old colored servant woman who wisely
+furnished the soldiers a good dinner and got thereby their good will
+to save the house. The old Flour Mill, however, was burned which stood
+on the same site as the present Springbrook Mill. Theophilus Anthony's
+only daughter married Thomas Gill after the Revolution, and from that
+time the property has been in the Gill family. Few places in the
+Hudson Valley have such ancient and continuous family history.
+
+=Locust Grove=, with square central tower and open outlook, residence
+of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph, is seen on
+the west bank; also the "Lookout," once known as Mine Hill, now a part
+of Poughkeepsie cemetery, with charming driveway to the wooded point
+where the visitor can see from his carriage one of the finest views
+of the Hudson. The completion of this drive is largely due to the
+enterprise of the late Mr. George Corlies, who did much to make
+Poughkeepsie beautiful. The view from this "Lookout" takes in the
+river for ten miles to the south, and reaches on the north to the
+Catskills. In a ramble with Mr. Corlies over Lookout Point, he told
+the writer that it was originally the purpose of Matthew Vassar to
+erect a monument on Pollopel's Island to Hendrick Hudson. Mr. Corlies
+suggested this point as the most commanding site. Mr. Vassar visited
+it, and concluded to place the monument here. He published an article
+in the Poughkeepsie papers to this effect, and, meeting Mr. Corlies
+one week afterwards, said, "Not one person in the city of Poughkeepsie
+has referred to my monument. I have decided to build a college for
+women, where they can learn what is useful, practical and sensible."
+It is interesting to note the fountain-idea of the first woman's
+college in the world, as it took form and shape in the mind of its
+founder.
+
+[Illustration: POUGHKEEPSIE BRIDGE]
+
+[Illustration: TROPHY POINT, WEST POINT]
+
+[Illustration: OLD CRO' NEST AND STORM KING]
+
+[Illustration: POLLIPEL'S ISLAND AND MOUNT TAURUS]
+
+[Illustration: THE CATSKILLS FROM THE HUDSON]
+
+[Illustration: NORTHERN GATE OF HIGHLANDS]
+
+       * * *
+
+  And from their leaguering legions thick and vast
+  The galling hail-shot in fierce volley falls,
+  While quick, from cloud to cloud, darts o'er the levin
+  The flash that fires the batteries of heaven!
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: MORNING VIEW AT BLUE POINT.]
+
+We now see =Blue Point=, on the west bank; and, in every direction,
+enjoy the finest views. The scenery seems to stand, in character,
+between the sublimity of the Highlands and the tranquil, dreamy repose
+of the Tappan Zee. It is said that under the shadow of these hills was
+the favorite anchorage of--
+
+=The Storm Ship=, one of our oldest and most reliable legends. The
+story runs somewhat as follows: Years ago, when New York was a
+village--a mere cluster of houses on the point now known as the
+Battery--when the Bowery was the farm of Peter Stuyvesant, and the Old
+Dutch Church on Nassau Street (which also long since disappeared),
+was considered the country--when communication with the old world was
+semi-yearly instead of semi-weekly or daily--say two hundred years
+ago--the whole town one evening was put into great commotion by the
+fact that a ship was coming up the bay.
+
+       * * *
+
+  See you beneath yon sky so dark
+  Fast gliding along a gloomy bark:--
+  By skeleton shapes her sails are furled,
+  And the hand that steers is not of this world.
+
+  _Legend of the Storm Ship._
+
+       * * *
+
+She approached the Battery within hailing distance, and then, sailing
+against both wind and tide, turned aside and passed up the Hudson.
+Week after week and month after month elapsed, but she never returned;
+and whenever a storm came down on Haverstraw Bay or Tappan Zee, it
+is said that she could be seen careening over the waste; and, in the
+midst of the turmoil, you could hear the captain giving orders, in
+_good Low Dutch_; but when the weather was pleasant, her favorite
+anchorage was among the shadows of the picturesque hills, on the
+eastern bank, a few miles above the Highlands. It was thought by some
+to be Hendrick Hudson and his crew of the "Half Moon," who, it was
+well known, had once run aground in the upper part of the river,
+seeking a northwest passage to China; and people who live in this
+vicinity still insist that under the calm harvest moon and the
+pleasant nights of September, they see her under the bluff of Blue
+Point, all in deep shadow, save her topsails glittering in the
+moonlight.
+
+=Poughkeepsie=, 74 miles from New York, is now at hand, Queen City
+of the Hudson, with name, derived from the Indian word Apokeepsing,
+signifying "safe harbor." Near the landing a bold headland juts out
+into the river, known as Kaal Rock, and no doubt this sheltering
+rock was a safe harbor in days of birch canoes. It has been recently
+claimed that the word signifies "muddy pond," which is neither true,
+appropriate or poetic. Poughkeepsie does not propose to give up
+her old-time "harbor name," particularly as it has been recently
+discovered that the name "Kipsie" was also given by the Indians to a
+"safe harbor" near the Battery on Manhattan Island. It is said that
+there are over forty different ways of spelling Poughkeepsie, and
+every year the postoffice record gives a new one. The first house was
+built in 1702 by a Mr. Van Kleeck. The State legislature had a session
+here in 1777 or 1778, when New York was held by the British and after
+Kingston had been burned by Vaughan.
+
+       * * *
+
+  On the crest of the waves, a something that glides
+  Before the stiff breeze, and gracefully rides
+  On the inflowing tide majestic and free
+  A huge and mysterious bird of the sea.
+
+  _Irving Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+Ten years later, the State convention also met here for ratification
+of the Federal Constitution. The town has a beautiful location, and is
+justly regarded the finest residence city on the river. It is not
+only midway between New York and Albany, but also midway between the
+Highlands and the Catskills, commanding a view of the mountain portals
+on the south and the mountain overlook on the north--the Gibraltar of
+revolutionary fame and the dreamland of Rip Van Winkle.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The azure heaven is filled with smiles,
+  The water lisping at my feet
+  From weary thought my heart beguiles.
+
+  _Henry Abbey._
+
+       * * *
+
+The well known poet and _litterateur_, Joel Benton, who divides his
+residence between New York and Poughkeepsie, in a recent article,
+"The Midway City of the Hudson," written for the _Poughkeepsie Sunday
+Courier_, says:
+
+"Poughkeepsie as a township was incorporated in 1788. The village
+bearing the name was formed in 1799 (incorporated as a city in 1854),
+and soon became the center of a large trade running in long lines east
+and west from the river. Dutchess County had at this time but a sparse
+population. There was a post-road from New York to Albany; but the
+building of the Dutchess Turnpike from Poughkeepsie to Sharon, Conn.,
+connecting with one from that place to Litchfield, which took place
+in 1808, was a capital event in its history. This made a considerable
+strip of western Connecticut tributary to Poughkeepsie's trade.
+
+"Over the turnpike went four-horse Concord stages, with berailed top
+and slanting boot in the rear for trunks and other baggage. Each one
+had the tin horn of the driver; and it was difficult to tell upon
+which the driver most prided himself--the power to fill that thrilling
+instrument, or his deft handling of the ponderous whip and multiplied
+reins. Travelers to Hartford and Boston went over this route; and an
+east and west through and way mail was a part of the burden. A sort of
+overland express and freight line, styled the Market Wagon, ran in
+and out of the town from several directions. One or more of these
+conveyances started from as far east as the Housatonic River, and they
+frequently crowded passengers in amongst their motley wares.
+
+"Speaking of the stage-driver's horn recalls the fact that when the
+steamboat arrived--which was so solitary an institution that for some
+time it was distinctly called 'The Steamboat'--the tin horn did duty
+also for it. When it was seen in the distance, either Albanyward or in
+the New York direction, a boy went through the village blowing a horn
+to arouse those who wished to embark on it. It is said the expectant
+passengers had ample time, after the horn was sounded, to make their
+toilets, run down to the river (or walk down) and take passage on it.
+
+"In colonial days few were the people here; but they were a bright and
+stirring handful. It seems as if every man counted as ten. The De's
+and the Vans, the Livingstons, the Schuylers, the Montgomerys and ever
+so many more of the Hudson River Valley settlers are still making
+their impress upon the country. I suppose it need not now be counted
+strange that the strong mixture of Dutch and English settlers, with a
+few Huguenots, which finally made Dutchess county, were not a little
+divided between Tory and Whig inclinations. Around Poughkeepsie,
+and in its allied towns stretching between the Hudson River and the
+Connecticut line, there was much strife. Gov. George Clinton in his
+day ruled in the midst of much tumult and turbulence; but he held the
+reins with vigor, in spite of kidnappers or critics. When the British
+burned Kingston he prorogued the legislature to Poughkeepsie, which
+still served as a 'safe harbor.' As the resolution progressed the Tory
+faction was weakened, either by suppression or surrender.
+
+"It was in the Poughkeepsie Court House that, by _one_ vote, after a
+Homeric battle, the colony of New York consented to become a part of
+the American republic, which consent was practically necessary to its
+existence.
+
+"How large a part two small incidents played here towards the result of
+nationality. That single vote was one, and the news by express from
+Richmond, announcing Virginia's previous ratification--and added
+stimulus to the vote--was the other. Poughkeepsie honored in May,
+1824, the arrival of Lafayette, and dined him, besides exchanging
+speeches with him, both at the Forbus House, on Market Street, very
+nearly where the Nelson House now stands, and at the Poughkeepsie
+Hotel. It was one of Poughkeepsie's great days when he came. Daniel
+Webster has spoken in her court house; and Henry Clay, in 1844, when a
+presidential candidate, stopped for a reception. And it is said that,
+by a mere accident, she just missed contributing a name to the list of
+presidents of the United States. The omitted candidate was Nathaniel
+P. Talmadge. He could have had the vice-presidential candidacy, the
+story goes, in 1840, but would not take it. If he had accepted it, he
+would have gone into history not merely as United States senator
+from New York and afterwards Governor of Wisconsin territory, but as
+president in John Tyler's place.
+
+"In 1844, the New York State Fair was held here somewhere east of what
+is now Hooker Avenue. It was an occasion thought important enough then
+to be pictured and reported in the London _Illustrated News_. Two
+years after the telegraph wires were put up in this city, before they
+had yet reached the city of New York. Considering the fact that Prof.
+S. F. B. Morse, the telegraph inventor, had his residence here, this
+incident was not wholly inappropriate.
+
+"The advent in 1849 of the _Hudson River Railroad_, which was an
+enterprise in its day of startling courage and magnitude, constituted
+a special epoch in the history of Poughkeepsie and the Hudson River
+towns. Men of middle age here well remember the hostility and ridicule
+the project occasioned when it was first broached. Some said no
+railroad ever _could_ be built on the river's edge; and, if you
+should build one, the enormous expense incurred would make it forever
+unprofitable. It seemed then the height of Quixotism to lay an
+expensive track where the river offered a free way to all. Property
+holders, whose property was to be greatly benefited, fought the
+railroad company with unusual spirit and persistence. But the railroad
+came, nevertheless, and needs no advocate or apologist to-day. There
+is no one now living here who would ask its removal, any more than he
+would ask the removal of the Hudson River itself."
+
+       * * *
+
+  And lo! the Catskills print the distant sky,
+    And o'er their airy tops the faint clouds driven,
+  So softly blending, that the cheated eye
+    Forgets or which is earth or which is heaven.
+
+  _Theodore S. Fay_.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Mountains on mountains in the distance rise,
+  Like clouds along the far horizon's verge;
+  Their misty summits mingling with the skies,
+  Till earth and heaven seem blended into one.
+
+  _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+Poughkeepsie has been known for more than half a century as the City
+of Schools. The Parthenon-like structure which crowns College Hill was
+prophetic of a still grander and more widely known institution, the
+first in the world devoted to higher culture for women,--
+
+=Vassar College.=--This institution, founded by Matthew Vassar, and
+situated two miles east of the city, maintains its prestige not only
+as the first woman's college in point of time, but also first in
+excellence and influence. The grounds are beautiful and graced by
+noble buildings which have been erected year by year to meet the
+continued demands of its patrons. The college is not seen from the
+river but is of easy access by trolley from the steamboat landing.
+
+=Eastman College= is also one of the fixed and solid institutions
+of Poughkeepsie, located in the very heart of the city. It has
+accomplished good work in preparing young men for business, and has
+made Poughkeepsie a familiar word in every household throughout the
+land. It was fortunate for the city that the energetic founder of this
+college selected the central point of the Hudson as the place of all
+others most suited for his enterprise, and equally fortunate for the
+thousands of young men who yearly graduate from this institution,
+as the city is charmingly located and set like a picture amid
+picturesque scenery.
+
+Among many successful public institutions of Poughkeepsie are the
+Vassar Hospital, the Vassar Old Men's Home, the Old Ladies' Home, the
+State Hospital and the Vassar Institute of Arts and Sciences.
+
+       * * *
+
+    I went three times up the Hudson; and if I lived in
+    New York should be tempted to ascend it three times a
+    week during the summer.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+The opera house is one of the pleasantest in the country and received
+a high comment, still remembered, from Joseph Jefferson, for its
+perfect acoustic quality. The armory, the Adriance Memorial Library to
+the memory of Mr. and Mrs. John P. Adriance, and the historic Clinton
+House on Main Street purchased in 1898 by the Daughters of the
+Revolution, also claim the attention of the visitor. Several factories
+are here located, the best known being that of Adriance, Platt & Co.,
+whose Buckeye mowers and reapers have been awarded the highest honors
+in Germany, Holland, France, Belgium, Sweden, Norway, Italy, Russia,
+Switzerland, and the United States, and are sold in every part of
+the civilized globe. The Phoenix Horseshoe Co., the Knitting-Goods
+Establishment, and various shoe, shirt and silk thread factories
+contribute to the material prosperity of the town. The drives about
+Poughkeepsie are delightful. Perhaps the best known in the United
+States is the Hyde Park road, six miles in extent, with many palatial
+homes and charming pictures of park and river scenery. This is a part
+of the Old Post Road and reminds one by its perfect finish of the
+roadways of England. Returning one can take a road to the left leading
+by and up to
+
+=College Hill=, 365 feet in height, commanding a wide and extensive
+prospect. The city lies below us, fully embowered as in a wooded park.
+To the east the vision extends to the mountain boundaries of Dutchess
+County, and to the north we have a view of the Catskills marshalled as
+we have seen them a thousand times in sunset beauty along the horizon.
+This property, once owned by Senator Morgan and his heirs, was happily
+purchased by William Smith of Poughkeepsie, and given to the city as a
+public park. There is great opportunity here to make this a thing of
+beauty and a joy forever, for there are few views on the Hudson,
+and none from any hill of its height, that surpass it in extent and
+variety. The city reservoir lies to the north, about one hundred feet
+down the slope of College Hill.
+
+       * * *
+
+  My heart is on the hills. The shades
+    Of night are on my brow;
+  Ye pleasant haunts and quiet glades,
+    My soul is with you now!
+
+  _Robert C. Sands._
+
+       * * *
+
+The South Drive, a part of the Old Post Road, passes the gateway of
+the beautiful rural cemetery, Locust Grove and many delightful homes.
+Another interesting drive from Poughkeepsie is to Lake Mohonk and
+Minnewaska, well-known resorts across the Hudson, in the heart of the
+Shawangunk (pronounced Shongum) Mountains, also reached by railway
+or stages via New Paltz. There are also many extended drives to
+the interior of the county recommended to the traveler who makes
+Poughkeepsie for a time his central point; chief among these, Chestnut
+Ridge, formerly the home of the historian Benson J. Lossing, lying
+amid the hill country of eastern Dutchess. Its mean altitude is about
+1,100 feet above tide water, a fragment of the Blue Ridge branch of
+the Appalachian chain of mountains, cleft by the Hudson at West Point,
+stretching away to the Berkshire Hills. It is also easy of access by
+the _Harlem Railroad_ from New York to Dover Plains with three miles
+of carriage drive from that point. The outlook from the ridge is
+magnificent; a sweep of eighty miles from the Highlands to the
+Helderbergs, with the entire range of the Shawangunk and the
+Catskills. Mr. Lossing once said that his family of nine persons had
+required during sixteen years' residence on Chestnut Ridge, only ten
+dollars' worth of medical attendance. Previous to 1868 he had resided
+in Poughkeepsie, and throughout his life his form was a familiar one
+in her streets.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Thy waves are old companions, I shall see
+  A well-remembered form in each old tree
+  And hear a voice long-loved in thy wild minstrelsy.
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Dover Stone Church=, just west of Dover Plains Village, is also
+well worth a visit. Here a small stream has worn out a remarkable
+cavern in the rocks forming a gothic arch for entrance. It lies in a
+wooded gorge within easy walk from the village. Many years ago the
+writer of this handbook paid it an afternoon visit, and the picture
+has remained impressed with wonderful vividness. The archway opens
+into a solid rock, and a stream of water issues from the threshold. On
+entering the visitor is confronted by a great boulder, resembling an
+old-fashioned New England pulpit, reaching half way to the ceiling.
+The walls are almost perfectly arched, and garnished here and there
+with green moss and white lichen. A rift in the rocks extends the
+whole length of the chapel, over which trees hang their green foliage,
+which, ever rustling and trembling, form a trellis-work with the blue
+sky, while the spray rising from behind the rock-worn altar seems like
+the sprinkling of holy incense. After all these years I still hear the
+voice of those dashing waters and dream again, as I did that day, of
+the brook of Cherith where ravens fed the prophet of old. It is said
+by Lossing, in his booklet on the Dover Stone Church, that Sacassas,
+the mighty sachem of the Pequoids and emperor over many tribes between
+the Thames and the Hudson River, was compelled after a disastrous
+battle which annihilated his warriors, to fly for safety, and, driven
+from point to point, he at last found refuge in this cave, where
+undiscovered he subsisted for a few days on berries, until at last he
+made his way through the territory of his enemies, the Mahicans, to
+the land of the Mohawks.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Tell me, where'er thy silver bark be steering,
+    Bright Dian floating by fair Persian lands,
+  Tell if thou visited, thou heavenly rover,
+   A lovelier stream than this the wide world over.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Poughkeepsie to Kingston.=
+
+Leaving the Poughkeepsie dock the steamer approaches the Poughkeepsie
+Bridge which, from Blue Point and miles below, has seemed to the
+traveler like a delicate bit of lace-work athwart the landscape,
+or like an old-fashioned "valance" which used to hang from Dutch
+bedsteads in the Hudson River farm houses. This great cantilever
+structure was begun in 1873, but abandoned for several years. The work
+was resumed in 1886 just in time to save the charter, and was finished
+by the Union Bridge Company in less than three years. The bridge is
+12,608 feet in length (or about two miles and a half), the track being
+212 feet above the water with 165 feet clear above the tide in the
+centre span. The breadth of the river at this point is 3,094 feet. The
+bridge originally cost over three million dollars and much more has
+been annually spent in necessary improvements. It not only affords a
+delightful passenger route between Philadelphia and Boston, but also
+brings the coal centres of Pennsylvania to the very threshold of New
+England. Two railroads from the east centre here, and what was once
+considered an idle dream, although bringing personal loss to many
+stockholders, has been of material advantage to the city.
+
+As the steamer passes under the bridge the traveler will see on the
+left Highland station (_West Shore Railroad_) and above this the old
+landing of New Paltz. A well traveled road winds from the ferry and
+the station, up a narrow defile by the side of a dashing stream,
+broken here and there in waterfalls, to Highland Village, New Paltz
+and Lake Mohonk. _The Bridge and Trolley Line_ from Poughkeepsie make
+a most delightful excursion to New Paltz, on the Wallkill, seat of one
+of the State normal colleges.
+
+       * * *
+
+  My thoughts go back to thee, oh lovely lake,
+  Lake of the Sky Top! as thy beauties break
+  Upon the traveller of thy mountain road,
+  While sunset gilds thee, vision never fairer glowed!
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+Prominent among many pleasant residences above Poughkeepsie are:
+Mrs. F. J. Allen's of New York, Mrs. John F. Winslow's, Mrs. Thomas
+Newbold's, J. Roosevelt's and Archie Rogers'. The large red buildings
+above the Poughkeepsie water works are the Hudson River State
+Hospital. Passing Crum Elbow Point on the left and the Sisters of the
+White Cross Orphan Asylum, we see
+
+=Hyde Park=, 80 miles from New York, on the east bank, named some say,
+in honor of Lady Ann Hyde; according to others, after Sir Edward Hyde,
+one of the early British Governors of the colony. The first prominent
+place above Hyde Park, is Frederick W. Vanderbilt's, with Corinthian
+columns; and above this "Placentia," once the home of James K.
+Paulding.
+
+Immediately opposite "Placentia," at West Park on the west bank, is
+the home of John Burroughs, our sweetest essayist, the nineteenth
+century's "White of Selborne." Judge Barnard of Poughkeepsie, once
+said to the author of this handbook, "The best writer America has
+produced after Hawthorne is John Burroughs; I wish I could see him."
+It so happened that there had been an important "bank" suit a day or
+two previous in Poughkeepsie which was tried before the judge in which
+Mr. Burroughs had appeared as an important witness. The judge was
+reminded of this fact when he remarked with a few emphatic words, the
+absence of which seems to materially weaken the sentence: "Was that
+Burroughs? Well, well, I wish I had known it."
+
+       * * *
+
+  How soothing is this solitude
+  With nature in her wildest mood,
+  Where Hudson deep, majestic, wide,
+  Pours to the sea his monarch tide.
+
+  _William Wilson._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Mount Hymettus=, overlooking West Park, so named by "the author and
+naturalist," has indeed been to him a successful hunting-ground for
+bees and wild honey, and will be long remembered for sweeter stores of
+honey encombed and presented in enduring type. Washington Irving says
+of the early poets of Britain that "a spray could not tremble in the
+breeze, or a leaf rustle to the ground, that was not seen by these
+delicate observers and wrought up into some beautiful morality." So
+John Burroughs has studied the Hudson in all its moods, knowing well
+that it is not to be wooed and won in a single day. How clear this is
+seen in his articles on "Our River":
+
+"Rivers are as various in their forms as forest trees. The Mississippi
+is like an oak with enormous branches. What a branch is the Red River,
+the Arkansas, the Ohio, the Missouri! The Hudson is like the pine
+or poplar--mainly trunk. From New York to Albany there is only an
+inconsiderable limb or two, and but few gnarls and excrescences. Cut
+off the Rondout, the Esopus, the Catskill and two or three similar
+tributaries on the east side, and only some twigs remain. There
+are some crooked places, it is true, but, on the whole, the Hudson
+presents a fine, symmetrical shaft that would be hard to match in any
+river in the world. Among our own water-courses it stands preeminent.
+The Columbia--called by Major Winthrop the Achilles of rivers--is a
+more haughty and impetuous stream; the Mississippi is, of course,
+vastly larger and longer; the St. Lawrence would carry the Hudson as
+a trophy in his belt and hardly know the difference; yet our river is
+doubtless the most beautiful of them all. It pleases like a mountain
+lake. It has all the sweetness and placidity that go with such bodies
+of water, on the one hand, and all their bold and rugged scenery on
+the other. In summer, a passage up or down its course in one of the
+day steamers is as near an idyl of travel as can be had, perhaps,
+anywhere in the world. Then its permanent and uniform volume, its
+fullness and equipoise at all seasons, and its gently-flowing currents
+give it further the character of a lake, or of the sea itself. Of
+the Hudson it may be said that it is a very large river for its
+size,--that is for the quantity of water it discharges into the sea.
+Its watershed is comparatively small--less, I think, than that of the
+Connecticut. It is a huge trough with a very slight incline, through
+which the current moves very slowly, and which would fill from the sea
+were its supplies from the mountains cut off. Its fall from Albany to
+the bay is only about five feet. Any object upon it, drifting with the
+current, progresses southward no more than eight miles in twenty-four
+hours. The ebb-tide will carry it about twelve miles and the flood set
+it back from seven to nine. A drop of water at Albany, therefore, will
+be nearly three weeks in reaching New York, though it will get pretty
+well pickled some days earlier. Some rivers by their volume and
+impetuosity penetrate the sea, but here the sea is the aggressor, and
+sometimes meets the mountain water nearly half way. This fact was
+illustrated a couple of years ago, when the basin of the Hudson was
+visited by one of the most severe droughts ever known in this part of
+the State. In the early winter after the river was frozen over above
+Poughkeepsie, it was discovered that immense numbers of fish were
+retreating up stream before the slow encroachment of salt water. There
+was a general exodus of the finny tribes from the whole lower part of
+the river; it was like the spring and fall migration of the birds, or
+the fleeing of the population of a district before some approaching
+danger: vast swarms of cat-fish, white and yellow perch and striped
+bass were _en route_ for the fresh water farther north. When the
+people along shore made the discovery, they turned out as they do in
+the rural districts when the pigeons appear, and, with small gill-nets
+let down through holes in the ice, captured them in fabulous numbers.
+On the heels of the retreating perch and cat-fish came the denizens of
+the salt water, and codfish were taken ninety miles above New York.
+When the February thaw came and brought up the volume of fresh water
+again, the sea brine was beaten back, and the fish, what were left of
+them, resumed their old feeding-grounds.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Still on the Half-Moon glides: before her rise swarms
+    of quick water fowl, and from her prow the sturgeon
+    leaps, and falls with echoing splash.
+
+    _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Beneath--the river with its tranquil flood,
+  Around--the breezes of the morning, scented
+  With odors from the wood.
+
+  _William Allen Butler._
+
+       * * *
+
+"It is this character of the Hudson, this encroachment of the sea upon
+it, on account of the subsidence of the Atlantic coast, that led
+Professor Newberry to speak of it as a drowned river. We have heard
+of drowned lands, but here is a river overflowed and submerged in the
+same manner. It is quite certain, however, that this has not always
+been the character of the Hudson. Its great trough bears evidence
+of having been worn to its present dimensions by much swifter and
+stronger currents than those that course through it now. To this
+gradual subsidence in connection with the great changes wrought by the
+huge glacier that crept down from the north during what is called the
+ice period, is owing the character and aspects of the Hudson as we see
+and know them. The Mohawk Valley was filled up by the drift, the Great
+Lakes scooped out, and an opening for their pent-up waters found
+through what is now the St. Lawrence. The trough of the Hudson was
+also partially filled and has remained so to the present day. There
+is, perhaps, no point in the river where the mud and clay are not from
+two to three times as deep as the water. That ancient and grander
+Hudson lies back of us several hundred thousand years--perhaps more,
+for a million years are but as one tick of the time-piece of the Lord;
+yet even _it_ was a juvenile compared with some of the rocks and
+mountains which the Hudson of to-day mirrors. The Highlands date
+from the earliest geological race--the primary; the river--the old
+river--from the latest, the tertiary; and what that difference
+means in terrestrial years hath not entered into the mind of man to
+conceive. Yet how the venerable mountains open their ranks for the
+stripling to pass through. Of course, the river did not force its way
+through this barrier, but has doubtless found an opening there of
+which it has availed itself, and which it has enlarged. In thinking
+of these things, one only has to allow time enough, and the most
+stupendous changes in the topography of the country are as easy
+and natural as the going out or the coming in of spring or summer.
+According to the authority above referred to, that part of our coast
+that flanks the mouth of the Hudson is still sinking at the rate of a
+few inches per century, so that in the twinkling of a hundred thousand
+years or so, the sea will completely submerge the city of New York,
+the top of Trinity Church steeple alone standing above the flood. We
+who live so far inland, and sigh for the salt water, need only to have
+a little patience, and we shall wake up some fine morning and find the
+surf beating upon our door-steps."
+
+       * * *
+
+    A sloop, loitering in the distance, dropped slowly
+    with the tide, her sail hanging loosely against the
+    mast; and as the reflection of the sky gleamed along
+    the still water, it seemed as if the vessel was suspended
+    in the air.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+How strange it seems in these brief years since 1880 to read of
+"Trinity Church steeple standing alone above the flood" as the rising
+tide of New York skyscrapers has long since overtopped the old
+landmark and is sweeping higher and higher day by day.
+
+The Frothingham residence and Frothingham dock are south of the
+Burroughs cottage. The late General Butterfield's house immediately to
+the north. The old Astor place (once known as Waldorf), is also near
+at hand. In our analysis of the Hudson we refer to the hills above and
+below Poughkeepsie as "The Picturesque." Any one walking or driving
+from Highland Village to West Park will feel that this is a proper
+distinction. The Palisades are distinguished for "grandeur" which
+might be defined as "horizontal sublimity." The Highlands for
+"sublimity" which might be termed "perpendicular grandeur;" the
+Catskills for "beauty," with their rounded form and ever changing
+hues, but the river scenery about Poughkeepsie abides in our memories
+as a series of bright and charming "pictures." North of Waldorf is
+Pelham, consisting of 1,200 acres, one of the largest fruit farms in
+the world. Passing Esopus Island, which seems like a great stranded
+and petrified whale, along whose sides often cluster Lilliputian-like
+canoeists, we see Brown's Dock on the west bank at the mouth of Black
+Creek, which rises eight miles from Newburgh on the eastern slope of
+the Plaaterkill Mountains. Flowing through Black Pond, known by the
+Dutch settlers as the "Grote Binnewater," it cascades its way along
+the southern slope of the Shaupeneak Mountains to Esopus Village,
+a cross-road hamlet, and thence carries to the Hudson its waters
+dark-stained by companionship with trees of hemlock and cedar growth.
+The Pell property extends on the west bank to Pell's Dock, almost
+opposite the Staatsburgh ice houses. Mrs. Livingston's residence will
+now be seen on the east bank, and just above this the home of the late
+William B. Dinsmore on Dinsmore Point. Passing Vanderberg Cove, cut
+off from the river by the tracks of the _New York Central Railroad_,
+we see the residence of Jacob Ruppert, and above this the Frinck
+mansion known as "Windercliffe," formerly the property of E. R. Jones,
+and next beyond the house of Robert Suckly. Passing Ellerslie Dock we
+see "Ellerslie," the palatial summer home of ex-Vice-President Levi
+P. Morton, an estate of six hundred acres, formerly owned by the Hon.
+William Kelly. Along the western bank extend the Esopus meadows, a low
+flat, covered by water, the southern end of which is marked by the
+Esopus light-house. To the west rises Hussey's Mountain, about one
+thousand feet in height, from under whose eastern slope two little
+ponds, known as Binnewaters, send another stream to join Black Creek
+before it flows into the Hudson. Port Ewen on the west bank, with ice
+houses and brick yards, will be seen by steamer passengers below the
+mouth of Rondout Creek.
+
+       * * *
+
+  At dawn the river seems a shade,
+    A liquid shadow deep as space,
+  But when the sun the mist has laid
+    A diamond shower smites its face.
+
+  _John Burroughs._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Rhinecliff=, 90 miles from New York. The village of Rhinebeck, two
+miles east of the landing, is not seen from the river. It was named,
+as some contend, by combining two words--Beekman and Rhine. Others say
+that the word beck means cliff, and the town was so named from the
+resemblance of the cliffs to those of the Rhine. There are many
+delightful drives in and about Rhinebeck, "Ellerslie" being only about
+eight minutes by carriage from the landing.
+
+_The Philadelphia & Reading Rhinebeck Branch_ meets the Hudson at
+Rhinecliff, and makes a pleasant and convenient tourist or business
+route between the Hudson and the Connecticut. It passes through a
+delightful country and thriving rural villages. Some of the views
+along the Roeliffe Jansen's Kill are unrivaled in quiet beauty. The
+railroad passes through Rhinebeck, Red Hook, Spring Lake, Ellerslie,
+Jackson Corners, Mount Ross, Gallatinville, Ancram, Copake, Boston
+Corners, and Mount Riga to State Line Junction, and gives a person a
+good idea of the counties of Dutchess and Columbia. At Boston Corners
+connection is made with the _Harlem Railroad_.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Upon thy tessellated surface lie
+  The wave-glassed splendors of the sunset sky!
+
+  _Knickerbocker Magazine._
+
+       * * *
+
+From State Line Junction it passes through Ore Hill, Lakeville with
+its beautiful lake (an evening view of which is still hung in our
+memory gallery of sunset sketches), Salisbury, Chapinville, and Twin
+Lakes to Canaan, where the line crosses the _Housatonic Railroad._
+This route, therefore, is the easiest and pleasantest for Housatonic
+visitors _en route_ to the Catskills. From Canaan the road rises by
+easy grade to the summit, at an elevation of 1,400 feet, passing
+through the village of Norfolk, with its picturesque New England
+church crowning the village hill, and thence to Simsbury and Hartford.
+
+=The City of Kingston.=--Rondout and Kingston gradually grew together
+until the bans were performed in 1878, and a "bow-knot" tied at
+the top of the hill in the shape of a city hall, making them one
+corporation.
+
+The name Rondout had its derivation from a redoubt that was built
+on the banks of the creek. The creek took the name of Redoubt Kill,
+afterward Rundoubt, and at last Rondout. Kingston was once called
+Esopus. (The Indian name for the spot where the city now stands was
+At-kar-karton, the great plot or meadow on which they raised corn or
+beans.)
+
+Kingston and Rondout were both settled in 1614, and old Kingston,
+known by the Dutch as Wiltwyck, was thrice destroyed by the Indians
+before the Revolution. In 1777 the State legislature met here and
+formed a constitution. In the fall of the same year, after the capture
+of Fort Montgomery and Fort Clinton by the British, Vaughan landed at
+Rondout, marched to Kingston, and burned the town. While Kingston
+was burning, the inhabitants fled to Hurley, where a small force of
+Americans hung a messenger who was caught carrying dispatches from
+Clinton to Burgoyne.
+
+       * * *
+
+  What ample bays and branching streams,
+    What curves abrupt for glad surprise,
+  And how supreme the artist is
+    Who paints it all for loving eyes.
+
+  _Henry Abbey._
+
+       * * *
+
+Rondout is the termination of the Delaware and Hudson Canal (whence
+canal boats of coal find their way from the Pennsylvania Mountains
+to tidewater), also of the _Ulster and Delaware Railroad_, by which
+people find their way from tidewater to the Catskill Mountains, which
+have greeted the eye of the tourist for many miles down the Hudson.
+Originally all of the country-side in this vicinity was known as
+Esopus, supposed to be derived, according to Ruttenber, from the
+Indian word "seepus," a river. A "sopus Indian" was a Lowlander, and
+the name is intimately connected with a long reach of territory
+from Esopus Village, near West Park, to the mouth of the Esopus at
+Saugerties. In 1675 the mouth of the Rondout Creek was chosen by the
+New Netherland Company as one of the three fortified trading ports
+on the Hudson; a stockade was built under the guidance of General
+Stuyvesant in 1661 inclosing the site of old Kingston; a charter was
+granted in 1658 under the name of Wiltwyck, but changed in 1679 to
+Kingston. Few cities are so well off for old-time houses that span the
+century, and there is no congregation probably in the United States
+that has worshipped so many consecutive years in the same spot as the
+Dutch Reformed people of Kingston. Five buildings have succeeded the
+log church of 240 years ago. Dr. Van Slyke, in a recent welcome, said:
+"This church, which opens her doors to you, claims a distinction which
+does not belong even to the Collegiate Dutch Churches of Manhattan
+Island, and, by a peculiar history, stands identified more closely
+with Holland than any other of the early churches of this country.
+When every other church of our communion had for a long time been
+associated with an American Synod, this church retained its relations
+to the Classis of Amsterdam, and, after a period of independency and
+isolation, it finally allied itself with its American sisterhood as
+late as the year 1808. We still have three or four members whose life
+began before that date."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Yet there are those who lie beside thy bed
+  For whom thou once didst rear the bowers that screen
+  Thy margin, and didst water the green fields;
+  And now there is no night so still that they
+  Can hear thy lapse.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+Dominie Blom was the first preacher in Kingston. The church where he
+preached and the congregation that gathered to hear him have been
+tenderly referred to by the Rev. Dr. Belcher:
+
+  "They've journeyed on from touch and tone;
+    No more their ears shall hear
+  The war-whoop wild, or sad death moan,
+    Or words of fervid prayer;
+  But the deeds they did and plans they planned,
+    And paths of blood they trod,
+  Have blessed and brightened all this land
+    And hallowed it for God."
+
+=The Senate House=, built in 1676 by Wessel Ten Broeck, who would seem
+by his name to have stepped bodily out of a chapter of Knickerbocker,
+was "burned" but not "down," for its walls stood firm. It was
+afterwards repaired, and sheltered many dwellers, among others,
+General Armstrong, secretary of war under President Madison. The
+Provincial Convention met in the court house at Kingston in 1777 and
+the Constitution was formally announced April 22d of that year. The
+first court was held here September 9th and the first legislature
+September 10th. Adjourning October 7th, they convened again August
+18th, 1779, and in 1780, from April 22d to July 2d, also for two
+months beginning January 27, 1783.
+
+It was in the yard in front of the court house that the Constitution
+of the State was proclaimed by Robert Berrian, the secretary of the
+Constitutional Convention, and it was there that George Clinton, the
+first Governor of the State, was inaugurated and took the oath of
+office. It was in the court house that John Jay, chief justice,
+delivered his memorable charge to the grand jury in September, 1777,
+and at the opening said: "Gentlemen, it affords me very sensible
+pleasure to congratulate you on the dawn of that free, mild, and equal
+government which now begins to rise and break from amidst the clouds
+of anarchy, confusion and licentiousness, which the arbitrary and
+violent domination of the King of Great Britain has spread, in greater
+or less degree, throughout this and other American states. And it
+gives me particular satisfaction to remark that the first fruits
+of our excellent Constitution appear in a part of this State whose
+inhabitants have distinguished themselves by having unanimously
+endeavored to deserve them." The court house bell was originally
+imported from Holland.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Pinched by famine and menaced by foe
+  In the cruel winters of long ago,
+  They worked and prayed and for freedom wrought,
+  Freedom of speech and freedom of thought.
+
+  _Frederica Davis Hatfield._
+
+       * * *
+
+The burning of Kingston seemed unnecessarily cruel, and it is said
+that Vaughan was wide of the truth when, to justify the same, he
+claimed that he had been fired upon from dwellings in the village.
+General Sharpe in his address before the Holland Society says: "The
+history of this county begins to be interesting at the earliest stages
+of American history: Visited by Dutchmen in 1614, and again in 1620,
+it was in the very earliest Colonial history, one of the strong places
+of the Province of New York. The British museum contains the report
+of the Rev. John Miller, written in the year 1695, who, after 'having
+been nearly three years resident in the Province of New York, in
+America, as chaplain of His Majesty's forces there, and constantly
+attending the Governor, had opportunity of observing many things of
+considerable consequence in relation to the Christians and Indians,
+and had also taken the drafts of all the cities, towns, forts and
+churches of any note within the same.' These are his own words, and
+he adds that in the Province of New York 'the places of strength are
+chiefly three, the city of New York, the city of Albany, and the town
+of Kingstone, in Ulster.' The east, north and west fronts ran along
+elevations overlooking the lowlands and having a varying altitude
+of from twenty to thirty feet. The enclosure comprehended about
+twenty-five acres of land. There were salients, or horn works at each
+end of the four angles, with a circular projection at the middle
+of the westerly side, where the elevation was less than upon the
+northerly and easterly sides. The church standing upon the ground
+where we now are, was enclosed with a separate stockade, to be used
+as the last resort in case of disaster, and, projecting from this
+separate fortification, a strong block-house commanded and enfiladed
+the approaches to the southerly side, which was a plain. The local
+history is of continued and dramatic interest. The Indian wars were
+signalized by a great uprising and attack here, which was known as
+the war of 1663, when a considerable number of the inhabitants
+were killed, a still larger number were taken prisoners, and about
+one-fourth of the houses were burned to the ground. Reinforcements
+were sent by the governor-general from New Amsterdam, followed by his
+personal presence, when the Indians were driven back to the mountains,
+and, after a tedious campaign, their fields destroyed and the
+prisoners recaptured. When the next great crisis in our history came
+Kingston bore a conspicuous part. It was the scene of the formation of
+the State Government. The Constitution was here discussed and
+adopted. George Clinton was called from the Highlands, where, as a
+brigadier-general of the Continental army, he was commanding all the
+forces upon the Hudson River, which were opposing the attempts of Sir
+Henry Clinton to reach the northern part of the State and relieve
+Burgoyne, hemmed in by Gates at Saratoga. He was the ideal war
+governor--unbuckling his sword in the court room, that he might take
+the oath of office, and returning, immediately after the simple form
+of his inauguration, to his command upon the Hudson River.
+
+       * * *
+
+  A paradise of beauty in the light
+  Poured by the sinking sun, the mountain glows
+  In the soft summer evening.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+"The court house, standing opposite to us, and rebuilt upon its old
+foundations, and occupying, substantially, the same superficies of
+ground with its predecessors, recalls the dramatic scene where,
+surrounded by the council of safety, and in a square formed by two
+companies of soldiers, he was proclaimed Governor by Egbert Dumond,
+the sheriff of the county, reading his proclamation from the top of a
+barrel, and closing it with the words 'God save the people,' for the
+first time taking the place of 'God save the King.' The only building
+in any way connected with the civil foundation of this great State is
+still standing, and presents the same appearance that it did at the
+time of its erection, prior to the year 1690. It was subsequently
+occupied by General Armstrong, who, while residing here for the better
+education of his children, in Kingston Academy, was appointed minister
+to France. Aaron Burr, then in attendance upon court, spent an evening
+with General Armstrong, at his house, and, having observed the merit
+of sundry sketches, made inquiry with regard to, and interested
+himself in the fate of John Vanderlyn, who afterwards painted the
+Landing of Columbus in the Capitol, and Marius upon the Ruins of
+Carthage--which attracted the attention of the elder Napoleon, and
+established Vanderlyn's fame. There are more than forty blue limestone
+houses of the general type found in Holland, still standing to-day,
+which were built before the revolutionary period, and many of them
+before the year 1700."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Are there no scenes to touch the poet's soul,
+    No deeds of arms to wake the lordly stream,
+  Shall Hudson's billows unregarded roll?
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+  River, oh river! upon thy tide
+  Gaily the freighted vessels glide.
+  Would that thou thus couldst bear away
+  The thoughts that burthen my weary day.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+Coal, cement and blue-stone are the prominent industries of the city.
+The cement works yield several million dollars annually and employ
+about two thousand men. A million tons of coal enter the Hudson _via_
+the Port of Rondout from the Wyoming Valley of Pennsylvania every
+year. Blue-stone also meets tide-water at this point, brought in from
+quarries throughout the country by rail or by truck. The city of
+Kingston, the largest station on the _West Shore_ between Weehawken
+and Albany, has admirable railroad facilities connecting with the
+_Erie Railway_ at Goshen _via_ the _Wallkill Valley_, and the
+Catskills _via_ the _Ulster & Delaware_. All roads centre at the Union
+Station and the _Ulster & Delaware_ connects at Kingston Point with
+the Hudson River Day Line, also with the _New York Central_ by ferry
+from Rhinebeck.
+
+=To the Catskills.=--The two principal routes to the Catskills are
+_via_ Kingston and the _Ulster & Delaware Railroad_, and _via_
+Catskill Landing, the _Catskill Mountain Railway_ and _Otis Elevating
+Railway_ to the summit of the mountains. It has occurred to the writer
+to divide the mountain section in two parts:
+
+=The Southern Catskills.=--Kingston Point, where the steamer lands is
+indeed a _picturesque portal to a picturesque journey_. The beautiful
+park at the landing presents the most beautiful frontage of any
+pleasure ground along the river. Artistic pagodas located at effective
+points add greatly to the natural landscape effect, and excursionists
+_via_ Day Line from Albany have a delightful spot for lunch and
+recreation while waiting for the return steamer. In the busy months of
+mountain travel it is interesting to note the rush and hurry between
+the landing of the steamer and the departure of the train. The "all
+aboard" is given, and as we stand on the rear platform a friend points
+north to a bluff near Kingston Point and says the Indian name is
+"Ponckhockie"--signifying a burial ground. The old redoubts of
+Kingston, on the left, were defenses used in early days against the
+Indians.
+
+After leaving Kingston Union Depot, the most important station on
+the _West Shore Railroad_, and the terminus of the _Wallkill Valley
+Railroad_, we pass through Stony Hollow, eight miles from Rondout,
+where the traveler will note the stone tracks in the turnpike below,
+on the right side of the car, used by quarry wagons. Crossing the
+Stony Hollow ravine, we reach West Hurley, nine miles from Rondout and
+540 feet above the sea.
+
+=The Overlook= commands an extensive view,--with an area of 30,000
+square miles, from the peaks of New Hampshire and the Green Mountains
+of Vermont to the hills of New Jersey and Pennsylvania. To the east
+the valley reaches away with its towns and villages to the blue hills
+of Massachusetts and Connecticut, and, through this beautiful valley,
+the Hudson for a hundred miles is reduced to a mere ribbon of light.
+Woodstock, at the foot of the Overlook, is popular with summer
+visitors, and is a good starting point for the mountain outlook.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Let me forget the cares I leave behind,
+  And with an humble spirit bow before
+  The Maker of these everlasting hills.
+
+  _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Olive Branch= is the pretty name of the station above West Hurley.
+Temple Pond, at the foot of Big Toinge Mountain, covers about one
+hundred acres, and affords boating and fishing to those visiting the
+foothills of the Southern Catskills.
+
+=Brown's Station= is three miles beyond, and near at hand Winchell's
+Falls on the Esopus. The Esopus Creek comes in view near this station
+for the first time after leaving Kingston. The route now has pleasant
+companionship for twenty miles or more with the winding stream.
+
+=Brodhead's Bridge= is delightfully located on its wooded banks near
+the base of High Point, and near at hand is a bright cascade known as
+Bridal Veil Falls.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Then climb the Ontioras to behold
+    The lordly Hudson marching to the main,
+  And say what bard in any land of old
+    Had such a river to inspire his strain.
+
+  _Thomas William Parsons._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Shokan=, 18 miles from Rondout. Here the road takes a northerly
+course and we are advised by Mr. Van Loan's guide to notice on the
+left "a group of five mountains forming a crescent; the peaks of
+these mountains are four miles distant;" the right-hand one is the
+"Wittenberg," and the next "Mount Cornell." Boiceville and Mount
+Pleasant, 700 feet above the Hudson, are next reached. We enter the
+beautiful Shandaken Valley, and three miles of charming mountain
+scenery bring us to--
+
+=Phoenicia=, 29 miles from Rondout and 790 feet above the Hudson.
+This is one of the central points of the Catskills which the mountain
+streams (nature's engineers), indicated several thousand years ago.
+Readers of "Hiawatha" will remember that Gitche Manitou, the mighty,
+traced with his finger the way the streams and rivers should run. The
+tourist will be apt to think that he used his thumb in marking out
+the wild grandeur of Stony Clove. The Tremper House has a picturesque
+location in a charming valley, which seems to have been cut to fit,
+like a beautiful carpet, and tacked down to the edge of these grand
+old mountains. A fifteen minutes' walk up Mount Tremper gives a wide
+view, from which the Lake Mohonk House is sometimes seen, forty
+miles away. Phoenicia is one of the most important stations on the
+line--the southern terminus of the Stony Clove and Catskill Mountain
+division of the _Ulster & Delaware_ system. Keeping to the main line
+for the present we pass through Allaben, formerly known as Fox Hollow,
+and come to--
+
+=Shandaken=, 35 miles from Rondout and 1,060 feet in altitude, an
+Indian name signifying "rapid water." Here are large hotels and many
+boarding houses and the town is a central point for many mountain
+spots and shady retreats in every direction--all of which are well
+described in one of the handsomest summer resort guides of the season,
+the handbook of the _Ulster & Delaware Railroad_. Three miles beyond
+Shandaken we come to a little station whose name reminds one of the
+plains: _Big Indian_, 1,209 feet above the river.
+
+       * * *
+
+            Along the ragged top
+  Smiles a rich stripe of gold that up still glides
+  Until it dwindles to a thread and then,
+  As breath glides from a mirror, melts away.
+
+  _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Big Indian.=--It is said that about a century ago, a noble red man
+dwelt in these parts, who, early in life, turned his attention to
+agriculture instead of scalping, and won thereby the respect of the
+community. Tradition has it that he was about seven feet in height,
+but was overpowered by wolves, and was buried by his brethren not far
+from the station, where a "big Indian" was carved out of a tree near
+by for his monument. An old and reliable inhabitant stated that he
+remembered the rude statue well, and often thought that it ought to be
+saved for a relic, as the stream was washing away the roots; but it
+was finally carried down by a freshet, and probably found its way to
+some fire-place in the Esopus Valley. "So man passes away, as with a
+flood." There is another tale, one of love but less romantic, wherein
+he was killed by his rival and placed upright in a hollow tree.
+Perhaps neither tradition is true, and quite possibly the Big Indian
+name grew out of some misunderstanding between the Indians and white
+settlers over a hundred years ago. As the train leaves the station it
+begins a grade of 150 feet per mile to--
+
+=Pine Hill=, a station perched on the slope of Belle Ayr Mountain.
+This is the watershed between the Esopus and the Delaware, and 226
+feet above us, around the arcs of a double horseshoe, is the railway
+summit, 1,886 feet above the tide.
+
+=Grand Hotel Station.=--The New Grand, the second largest hotel in the
+Catskills, with a frontage of 700 feet, stands on a commanding terrace
+less than half a mile from the station. The main building faces
+southwest and overlooks the hamlet of Pine Hill, down the Shandaken
+Valley to Big Indian. The mountains, "grouped like giant kings" in
+the distance are Slide Mountain, Panther Mountain, Table and Balsam
+Mountains. Panther Mountain, directly over Big Indian Station, with
+Atlas-like shoulders, being nearer, seems higher, and is often
+mistaken for Slide Mountain. Table Mountain, to the right of the
+Slide, is the divide between the east branch of the Neversink and the
+Rondout.
+
+Continuing our journey from the summit we pass through Fleischmann's
+to--
+
+=Arkville=, railway station for Margaretville, one and a half miles
+distant, and Andes twelve miles--connected by stages. Furlough Lake,
+the mountain home of George Gould, is seven miles from Arkville. An
+artificial cave near Arkville, with hieroglyphics on the inner
+walls, attracts many visitors. Passing through Kelly's Corners and
+Halcottville, we come to--
+
+=Roxbury= (altitude 1,497 feet), a quaint old village at the upper end
+of which is the Gould Memorial Church. Miss Helen Gould spends part of
+her summer here and has done much to make beautiful the village of her
+father's boyhood. Grand Gorge comes next 1,570 feet above the tide,
+where stages are taken for Gilboa three miles, and Prattsville five
+miles distant, on the Schoharie Creek. Pratt's Rocks are visited by
+hundreds because of the carving in bas-relief of Colonel Pratt and
+figures emblematic of his career.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Softly the mist-mantled mountains arise
+  Dim in the dawning of opal-hued skies,
+  Nearer and clearer peaks burst on the view
+  Lightened by silvery flashes of dew.
+
+  _James Kennedy._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Stamford= is now at hand, seventy-six miles from the Hudson, about
+1,800 feet above the sea, named by settlers from Stamford, Conn. Here
+are many large hotels, chief among them The Rexmere and Churchill
+Hall. Thirteen miles from Stamford we come to Hobart, four miles
+further to South Kortright, and then to--
+
+=Bloomville=, eighty-nine miles from the Hudson, where a stage line of
+eight miles takes the traveler to Delhi. Passing through Kortright,
+ninety-two miles from the Hudson, 1,868 feet above the tide, East
+Meredith, Davenport, West Davenport (where passengers _en route_ for
+Cooperstown and Richfield Springs are transferred to the _Cooperstown
+and Charlotte Valley R. R._) and four miles bring us to
+
+=Oneonta=, on the Susquehanna division of the _Hudson & Delaware R. R._
+Returning to Phoenicia we take train through "Stony Clove Notch,"
+passing Chichester, Lanesville, Edgewood and Kaaterskill Junction to--
+
+=Hunter=, terminus of the Stony Clove Road. Resuming the eastward
+journey at Kaaterskill Junction we come to--
+
+=Tannersville=, near which are Elka Park, Onteora Park and Schoharie
+Manor.
+
+=Haines Corners= is another busy station, at the head of Kaaterskill
+Clove. On the slope of Mt. Lincoln have also been established
+"Twilight," "Santa Cruz" and "Sunset" Parks.
+
+=Laurel House Station.=--Here the voice of a waterfall invites the
+tourist to one of the most famous spots in the Catskill region and a
+mile beyond is
+
+=Kaaterskill Station=, 2,145 feet above the sea, the highest point
+reached by any railroad in the State, and half a mile or so further we
+alight on a rocky balcony, known for its beautiful view all over the
+world.
+
+       * * *
+
+  From greens and shades where the Kaaterskill leaps,
+  From cliffs where the wood-flowers cling.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Kingston to Catskill.=
+
+=Rhinecliff=, with its historic Beekman stone house, is on the east
+bank of the river opposite Kingston. The old mansion, on the hillside,
+above the landing, was built before 1700 by William Beekman, first
+patroon of this section. It was used as a church and as a fort during
+the Indian struggles and still preserves the scar of a cannon ball
+from a British ship.
+
+=Ferncliff=, a mile north of the Beekman House, is the home of John
+Jacob Astor, formerly the property of William Astor, and above this
+
+=Clifton Point=, once known as the Garretson place, the noted
+Methodist preacher whose wife was sister of Chancellor Livingston, and
+above this Douglas Merritt's home known as "Leacote." Flatbush landing
+lies on the west bank opposite Ferncliff.
+
+One might almost imagine from the names of places and individuals here
+grouped on both banks of the river, that this reach of the Hudson
+was a bit of old Scotland: Montgomery Place and Annandale with its
+Livingstons, Donaldsons and Kidds on the east side, and Glenerie,
+Glasgo and Lake Katrine on the west.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Catskills to the northward rise
+    With massive swell and towering crest--
+  The old-time "mountains of the skies,"
+    The threshold of eternal rest.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Barrytown= is just above "Daisy Island," on the east bank, 96 miles
+from New York. It is said when General Jackson was President, and this
+village wanted a postoffice, that he would not allow it under the name
+of Barrytown, from personal dislike to General Barry, and suggested
+another name; but the people were loyal to their old friend, and
+_went without_ a postoffice until a new administration. The name of
+Barrytown, therefore, stands as a monument to pluck. The place was
+once known as Lower Red Hook Landing. Passing "Massena," the Aspinwall
+property, we see--
+
+=Montgomery Place=, residence of Carleton Hunt and sisters, about
+one-half mile north of Barrytown, formerly occupied by Mrs.
+Montgomery, wife of General Montgomery and sister of Chancellor
+Livingston. The following dramatic incident connected with Montgomery
+Place is recorded in Stone's "History of New York City": "In 1818 the
+legislature of New York--DeWitt Clinton, Governor--ordered the remains
+of General Montgomery to be removed from Canada to New York. This was
+in accordance with the wishes of the Continental Congress, which, in
+1776, had voted the beautiful cenotaph to his memory that now stands
+in the wall of St. Paul's Church, fronting Broadway. When the funeral
+cortege reached Whitehall, N. Y., the fleet stationed there received
+them with appropriate honors; and on the 4th of July they arrived in
+Albany. After lying in state in that city over Sunday, the remains
+were taken to New York, and on Wednesday deposited, with military
+honors, in their final resting place, at St. Paul's. Governor Clinton
+had informed Mrs. Montgomery of the hour when the steamer 'Richmond,'
+conveying the body, would pass her home. At her own request, she stood
+alone on the portico. It was forty years since she had parted from her
+husband, to whom she had been wedded but two years when he fell on the
+heights of Quebec; yet she had remained faithful to the memory of her
+'soldier,' as she always called him. The steamboat halted before the
+mansion; the band played the 'Dead March,' and a salute was fired; and
+the ashes of the venerated hero, and the departed husband, passed on.
+The attendants of the Spartan widow now appeared, but, overcome by
+the tender emotions of the moment, she had swooned and fallen to the
+floor."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The river that he loved so well
+    Like a full heart is awed to calm,
+  The winter air that wafts his knell
+    Is fragrant with autumnal balm.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Sawkill Creek flows through a beautiful ravine in Montgomery
+grounds and above this is the St. Stephen's College and Preparatory
+School of the Episcopal Church in the Diocese of New York. Beyond and
+above this are Mrs. E. Bartlett's home and Deveaux Park, afterwards
+Almonte, the property of Col. Charles Livingston. We are now
+approaching--
+
+=Cruger's Island=, with its indented South Bay reaching up toward the
+bluff crowned by Montgomery Place. There is an old Indian tradition
+that no person ever died on this island, which a resident recently
+said still held true. It is remarkable, moreover, in possessing many
+antique carved stones from a city of Central America built into the
+walls of a temple modeled after the building from which the graven
+stones were brought. The "ruin" at the south end of the island is
+barely visible from the steamer, hidden as it is by foliage, but it is
+distinctly seen by _New York Central_ travelers in the winter season.
+Colonel Cruger has spared no expense in the adornment of his grounds,
+and a beautiful drive is afforded the visitor. The island is connected
+by a roadway across a tongue of land which separates the North from
+the South Bay. Above this island east of the steamer's channel across
+the railway of the _New York Central_, we see a historic bit of water
+known as--
+
+=The North Bay.= It was here that Robert Fulton developed his
+steamboat invention, receiving pecuniary aid from Chancellor
+Livingston, and it is fitting to give at this place a concise account
+of
+
+=Steam Navigation=, which after many attempts and failures on both
+sides of the Atlantic was at last crowned with success on the Hudson.
+
+=John Fitch= first entertained his idea of a steamboat in 1785, and
+sent to the general assembly of the State of Pennsylvania a model in
+1786. New Jersey and Delaware in 1787, gave him exclusive right to
+navigate their waters for fourteen years, which, however, was never
+undertaken. His steamboat "Perseverance," on the Delaware in 1787, was
+eighteen feet in length and six feet beam. The name, however, was a
+misnomer, as it was abandoned. These facts appear by papers on file in
+the State Library at Albany. After his experiment on the Delaware,
+he traveled through France and England, but not meeting with the
+encouragement that he expected, became poor and returned home, working
+his passage as a common sailor. In 1797 he constructed a little boat
+which was propelled by steam in the old Collect Pond, New York, below
+Canal Street, between Broadway and the East River.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Exactly one hundred years separate the first paddle-boat
+    of Papin from the first steamboat of Fulton.
+
+    _Victor Hugo._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to records in the State Library, the steam was sufficiently
+high to propel the boat once, twice, or thrice around the pond. "When
+more water being introduced into the boiler or pot and steam was
+generated, she was again ready to start on another expedition." The
+boat was a yawl about eighteen feet in length and six feet beam. She
+was started at the buoy with a small oar when the propeller was used.
+The boiler was a ten or twelve gallon iron pot. This boat with a
+portion of the machinery was abandoned by Fitch, and left to decay on
+the muddy shore. Shortly after this he died in Kentucky in 1798. Had
+he lived, or, had the fortune like Fulton, to find such a patron as
+Livingston, his success might have been assured. His visit to Europe
+may have inspired Symington's experiment on Dalswinton Loch in 1788,
+which made five miles an hour, and another steamboat on the Forth
+of Clyde which made seven miles an hour in 1789, and the "Charlotte
+Dundas" in 1802, which drew a load of seventy tons over three miles
+against a strong gale. Something, however, was wanting and the idea
+of successful navigation was abandoned in Britain till after the
+invention of Robert Fulton which made steam navigation an assured
+fact.
+
+"How necessary it is to succeed," said Kosciusko, at the grave of
+Washington, and this is also as true in the story of invention as in
+the struggle for freedom: "That they never fail who die in a great
+cause though years elapse, and others share as dark a doom. They but
+augment the deep and sweeping thoughts which overpower all others and
+conduct the world at last to fortune."
+
+It was the writer's privilege in 1891, to deliver the unveiling
+address of a monument to Symington at his birthplace, Lead Hills,
+Scotland. In the tribute then paid to the genius of the great
+Scotchman who had done so much for invention in many directions, he
+said the difference between Symington and Fulton was this: "Each
+worked diligently at the same idea, but it was the good fortune
+of Fulton, so far as the steamboat was considered, to make his
+'invention' 'go.'"
+
+       * * *
+
+    I see the traditions of my fathers are true; I see far,
+    far away the big bird again floating upon the
+    waters, so far my warriors that you cannot see it, but ere two
+    autumns have scattered the leaves upon my grave, the
+    pale face will claim our hunting grounds.
+
+    _Aepgin, King of the Mahicans._
+
+       * * *
+
+To quote from a British writer, the "Comet" of Henry Bell on the Clyde
+in 1812, was the first example of a steamboat brought into serviceable
+use within European waters, and the writer incidentally added that
+steam navigation in Britain took practical form almost on the spot
+where James Watt, the illustrious improver of the steam engine was
+born. The word "improver" is well put. It has much to do with the
+story of many inventions. The labor of Fitch was far-reaching in
+many directions, and it detracts nothing from Fulton's fame that the
+experiments of Fitch and Symington preceded his final triumph.
+
+Rumsey's claim to the idea of application of steam in 1785 does not
+seem to hold good. General Washington, to whom he referred as to a
+conversation in 1785, replied to a correspondent that the idea of
+Rumsey, as he remembered and understood it, was simply the propelling
+of a boat by a machine, the power of which was to be merely manual
+labor.
+
+=Robert Fulton= was born in 1765, and at the time of Symington's
+experiment in Scotland, was twenty-three years of age. He was then an
+artist student of Benjamin West, in London, but, after several years
+of study, felt that he was better adapted for engineering, and soon
+thereafter wrote a work on canal navigation. In 1797 he went to Paris.
+He resided there seven years and built a small steamboat on the Seine,
+which worked well, but made very slow progress.
+
+It is remarkable that the two most practical achievements of our
+century have been consummated by artists,--the telegraph by Morse
+after a score of "invented" failures, and the successful application
+of steam to navigation by Fulton.
+
+       * * *
+
+    I was glad to think that among the last memorable
+    beauties which have glided past us were pictures traced
+    by no common hand, not easily to grow old or fade beneath
+    the dust of time--the Kaatskill Mountains, Sleepy
+    Hollow and the Tappan Zee.
+
+    _Charles Dickens._
+
+       * * *
+
+Soon after his return to New York he brought his idea to successful
+completion. His reputation was now assured, and his invention of
+"torpedoes" gave him additional fame. Congress not only purchased
+these instruments of warfare, but also set apart $320,000 for a steam
+frigate to be constructed under his supervision.
+
+Through Livingston's influence the legislature passed an act granting
+to Fulton the exclusive privilege of navigating the waters of the
+State by means of steam power. The only conditions imposed were that
+he should, within a year, construct a boat of not less than "twenty
+tons burthen," which should navigate the Hudson at a speed not less
+than four miles an hour, and that one such boat should not fail of
+running regularly between New York and Albany for the space of one
+year.
+
+="The Clermont,"= named after the ancestral home of the Livingstons,
+was built for "Livingston and Fulton," by Charles Brownne in New York.
+The machinery came from the works of Watt and Bolton, England. She
+left the wharf of Corlear's Hook and the newspapers published with
+pride that she made in speed from four to five miles an hour. She was
+100 feet in length and boasted of "three elegant cabins, one for the
+ladies and two for the gentlemen, with kitchen, library, and every
+convenience." She averaged 100 passengers up or down the river. Every
+passenger paid $7, for which he had dinner, tea and bed, breakfast and
+dinner, with the liberty to carry 200 pounds of baggage.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The stars are on the running stream,
+    And fling, as its ripples gently flow,
+  A burnished length of wavy-beam
+    In an eel-like, spiral line below.
+
+  _Joseph Rodman Drake._
+
+       * * *
+
+An original letter from Robert Fulton to the minister of Bavaria at
+the court of France, written in 1809, upon the question of putting
+steamboats on the Danube, is of interest at the present day: "The
+distance from New York to Albany is 160 miles; the tide rises as far
+as Albany; its velocity is on an average 11/2 miles an hour.
+
+"We thus have the tide half the time in favor of the boat and half the
+time against her. The boat is 100 feet long, 16 feet wide and 7 feet
+deep; the steam engine is of the power of 20 horses; she runs 41/2
+miles an hour in still water. Consequently when the tide is 11/2
+miles an hour in her favor she runs 53/4 miles an hour. When the
+tide is against her she runs 23/4 miles an hour. Thus in theory her
+average velocity is 41/4 miles an hour, but in practice we take
+advantage of the currents. When they are against us we keep near shore
+in the eddies, where the current is weak or the eddy in our favor;
+when the tide is in our favor we take the centre of the stream and
+draw every advantage from it. In this way our average speed is 5 miles
+an hour, and we run to Albany, 160 miles, in about 32 hours." Previous
+to the invention of the steamboat there were two modes of conveyance.
+One was by the common sloops; they charged 42 francs, and were on the
+average four days in making the passage--they have sometimes been as
+long as eight days. The dread of such tedious voyages prevented great
+numbers of persons from going in sloops. The second mode of conveyance
+was the mail, or stage. They charged $8, or 44 francs, and the
+expenses on the road were about $5, or 30 francs, so that expenses
+amounted to $13. The time required was 48 hours. The steamboat has
+rendered the communication between New York and Albany so cheap and
+certain that the number of passengers are rapidly increasing. Persons
+who live 150 miles beyond Albany know the hour she will leave that
+city, and making their calculations to arrive at York, stay two
+days to transact business, return with the boat, and are with their
+families in one week. The facility has rendered the boat a great
+favorite with the public.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Through many a blooming wild and woodland green
+  The Hudson's sleeping waters winding stray.
+
+  _Margaretta V. Faugeres._
+
+       * * *
+
+A telegram from Exeter, N. H., in 1886, recorded the death of Dr.
+William Perry, the oldest person in Exeter and the oldest graduate of
+Harvard College, at the age of ninety-eight years. He was the sole
+survivor of the passengers on Fulton's first steamboat on its first
+trip down the Hudson, and the connecting link of three generations of
+progress. He was born in 1788, was a member of 1811 in Harvard, and
+grandfather of Sarah Orne Jewett, the authoress.
+
+The writer remembers his grandfather telling him of going to Hudson as
+a boy to see the "steamboat" make its first trip, and how it had been
+talked of for a long time as "Fulton's Folly." One thing is sure
+it was a small cradle wherein to rock the "baby-giant" of a great
+century. How Fulton would wonder if he could visit to-day the great
+steamships born of his invention--successors of the "Clermont" of
+"Twenty tons burthen." How he would marvel, standing on the deck of
+the "Hendrick Hudson," to see the water fall away from the prow cut by
+a rainbow scimitar of spray! at the great engines of polished steel,
+working almost noiselessly, and wonder at the way the pilot lands at
+the docks, even as a driver brings his buggy to a horse-block; for in
+his day, and long afterwards, passengers were "slued" ashore in little
+boats, as it was not regarded feasible to land a steamboat against a
+wharf. It would surely be an "experience" for us to see the passengers
+at West Point, Newburgh, or Poughkeepsie "slued ashore" to-day in
+little rowboats.
+
+=Tivoli=, above North Bay took its name from a pre-revolutionary
+"Chateau," home of the late Colonel DePeyster. The "Callender Place"
+to the southeast, was formerly the property of Johnston Livingston.
+Two miles from the river is the home of Mr. J. N. Lewis, a morning view
+from whose veranda is still remembered, and it is to him that the
+writer is indebted for a pleasant trip to the ruins on Cruger's
+Island. The residence of the late J. Watts DePeyster stands on a
+commanding bluff north of the railway station and it was beside his
+open fireside many years ago that he told the writer how his house was
+saved from Vaughan's cannon. "Rose Hill," was mistaken for "Clermont,"
+but a well-stocked cellar mollified the British captain.
+
+       * * *
+
+  O! stream of the mountains if answer of thine
+  Could rise from thy waters to questions of mine,
+  Methinks through the din of thy thronged banks a moan
+  Of sorrow would come for the days that are gone.
+
+  _Legends of the Hudson._
+
+       * * *
+
+It grew like one of the old English family houses, with the increase
+of the family, until, in strange but picturesque outline--the
+prevailing style being Italian, somewhat in the shape of a cross--it
+is now 114 feet long by 87 feet deep. The tower in the rear, devoted
+to library purposes, rises to the height of about sixty feet. This
+library, first and last, has contained between twenty and thirty
+thousand volumes. Such indefinite language is used, because the owner
+donated over half this number to the New York Historical Society, the
+New York Society Library, and a number of other similar organizations
+in different parts of the United States. As a working library, replete
+with dictionaries and cyclopaedias, in many tongues and on almost
+every subject, it is a marvel. It is likewise very valuable for its
+collections on military and several other special topics. From it was
+selected and given to the New York Historical Society, one of the
+finest possible collections on the History of Holland, from the
+earliest period down to the present time. "Rose Hill" was left in his
+will to the Leake and Watts Orphan Home.
+
+A ferry from Tivoli to Saugerties affords communication between the
+two villages. Glasco Landing, on the west bank, lies between the
+residences of Henry Corse, on the south, and Mrs. Vanderpool (sister
+of the late President Martin Van Buren), on the north.
+
+In locating the residences along the river and dealing so often in the
+words "north" and "south," we are reminded of a good story of Martin
+Van Buren. It is said that it was as difficult to get a direct answer
+from him as from Bismarck or Gladstone. Two friends were going up with
+him one day on a river boat and one made a wager with the other that
+a direct answer could not be secured on any question from the astute
+statesman. They approached the ex-president and one of them said, "Mr.
+Van Buren, my friend and I have had a little discussion; will you
+tell us, does or does not the sun rise in the east?" The ex-president
+calmly drew up a chair, and said, "You must remember that the east
+and west are merely relative terms." "That settles it," said the
+questioner, "I'll pay the bet."
+
+       * * *
+
+  How grateful is the sudden change
+    From arid pavements to the grass,
+  From narrow streets that thousands range
+    To meadows where June zephyrs pass.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+    It is a drop for the old Hudson, and a merry time it
+    has until it gets down off the mountains. I have thought
+    how long it would be before that very water which was
+    made for the wilderness will be under the bottom of a
+    vessel and tossing in the salt sea.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saugerties=, 101 miles from New York. From its location (being the
+nearest of the river towns to the Catskills), it naturally hoped to
+secure a large share of tourist travel, but Kingston and Catskill
+presented easier and better facilities of access and materially
+shortened the hours of arrival at the summit. Plaaterkill Clove,
+wilder and grander than Kaaterskill Clove, about nine miles west of
+the village, has Plaaterkill Mountain, Indian Head, Twin Mountains and
+Sugar Loaf on the south, and High Peak and Round Top on the north. Its
+eighteen waterfalls not only give great variety to a pedestrian trip,
+but also ample field for the artist's brush. The Esopus, meeting
+the Hudson at Saugerties, supplies unfailing waterpower for its
+manufacturing industries, prominent among which are the Sheffield
+Paper Company, the Barkley Fibre Company (wood pulp), the Martin
+Company (card board) and a white lead factory. There are also large
+shipments of blue stone, evidences of which are seen in many places
+near at hand along the western bank. Many attractive strolls near
+Saugerties invite the visitor, notably the walk to Barkley Heights
+south of the Esopus. An extensive view is obtained from the _West
+Shore Railroad_ station west of the village and the drive thereto.
+North of Saugerties will be seen the docks and hamlets of Malden,
+Evesport and West Camp, also the residences of J. G. Myers to the
+northwest of the Rock islet, and of H. T. Coswell, near which the
+steamer passes to the west of Livingston Flats. The west shore at West
+Camp was settled by exiles from the Palatinate, about 1710, and one of
+the old churches still stands a short distance inland. We are now in
+the midst of--
+
+=The Livingston Country=, whose names and memories dot the landscape
+and adorn the history of the Hudson Valley. Dutchess and Columbia
+Counties meet on the east bank opposite that part of Saugerties where
+Sawyer's Creek flows into the Hudson. "Idele" was originally called
+the Chancellor Place. "Clermont" is about half a mile to the north,
+the home of Clermont Livingston, an early manor house built by Robert
+R. Livingston, who, next to Hamilton, was the greatest New York
+statesman during our revolutionary period. The manor church, not seen
+from the river, is at the old village of Clermont, about five miles
+due west from the mansion. The Livingstons are of Scotch ancestry and
+have an illustrious lineage. Mary Livingston, one of the "four Marys"
+who attended Mary Queen of Scots during her childhood and education in
+France, was of the same family. Robert Livingston, born in 1654, came
+to the Hudson Valley with his father, and in 1686 purchased from the
+Indians a tract of country reaching east twenty-two miles to the
+boundary of Massachusetts with a river frontage of twelve miles. This
+purchase was created, "the Lordship and Manor of Livingston," by
+Governor Thomas Dongan. In 1692 Robert built the manor house, but did
+not reside in it for twenty years. He was a friend of Captain Kidd and
+a powerful promoter of his enterprises. The manor consisted of 260,000
+acres. The estate of 13,000 acres, given to his second son Robert, was
+called Clermont. Philip, his first son, inherited 247,000 acres, by
+old-time primogeniture succession. From each of these two families
+sprang a line of vigorous and resolute men. Robert R. Livingston,
+our revolutionary hero, descended from the smaller estate, owned
+"Clermont" at the time it was burned by the British. It was soon
+rebuilt and Lafayette was a guest at the mansion during his visit to
+the United States in 1824.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Let us not then neglect to improve the advantages we
+    possess; let us avail ourselves of the present moment to
+    fix lasting peace upon the broad basis of natural union;
+    let us while it is still in our power lay the foundation of
+    our long happiness and the happiness of our posterity.
+
+    _Robert R. Livingston._
+
+       * * *
+
+Above West Camp landing on the west side, is the boundary line between
+Ulster and Greene Counties; Ulster having kept us company all the way
+from Hampton Point opposite New Hamburgh. Throughout this long stretch
+of the river one industry must not be overlooked, well described by
+John Burroughs:
+
+=The Shad Industry.=--"When the chill of the ice is out of the river
+and the snow and frost out of the air, the fishermen along the shore
+are on the lookout for the first arrival of shad. A few days of warm
+south wind the latter part of April will soon blow them up; it is
+true also, that a cold north wind will as quickly blow them back.
+Preparations have been making for them all winter. In many a
+farm-house or other humble dwelling along the river, the ancient
+occupation of knitting of fish-nets has been plied through the long
+winter evenings, perhaps every grown member of the household, the
+mother and her daughters as well as the father and his sons, lending
+a hand. The ordinary gill or drift-net used for shad fishing in the
+Hudson is from a half to three-quarters of a mile long, and thirty
+feet wide, containing about fifty or sixty pounds of fine linen twine,
+and it is a labor of many months to knit one. Formerly the fish were
+taken mainly by immense seines, hauled by a large number of men; but
+now all the deeper part of the river is fished with the long, delicate
+gill-nets that drift to and fro with the tide, and are managed by two
+men in a boat. The net is of fine linen thread, and is practically
+invisible to the shad in the obscure river current: it hangs suspended
+perpendicularly in the water, kept in position by buoys at the top and
+by weights at the bottom; the buoys are attached by cords twelve or
+fifteen feet long, which allow the net to sink out of the reach of
+the keels of passing vessels. The net is thrown out on the ebb tide,
+stretching nearly across the river, and drifts down and then back on
+the flood, the fish being snared behind the gills in their efforts to
+pass through the meshes. I envy fishermen their intimate acquaintance
+with the river. They know it by night as well as by day, and learn all
+its moods and phases. The net is a delicate instrument that reveals
+all the hidden currents and by-ways, as well as all the sunken snags
+and wrecks at the bottom. By day the fisherman notes the shape and
+position of his net by means of the line or buoys; by night he marks
+the far end of it with a lantern fastened upon a board or block. The
+night tides he finds differ from the day--the flood at night being
+much stronger than at other times, as if some pressure had been
+removed with the sun, and the freed currents found less hindrance. The
+fishermen have terms and phrases of their own. The wooden tray upon
+which the net is coiled, and which sits in the stern of the boat, is
+called a 'cuddy.' The net is divided into 'shots.' If a passing sloop
+or schooner catches it with her centre-board or her anchor, it gives
+way where two or three shoots meet, and thus the whole net is not
+torn. The top cord or line of the net is called a 'cimline.' One
+fisherman 'plugs' another when he puts out from the shore and casts
+in ahead of him, instead of going to the general starting place, and
+taking his turn. This always makes bad blood. The luck of the born
+fisherman is about as conspicuous with the gill-net as with the rod
+and line, some boats being noted for their great catches the season
+through. No doubt the secret is mainly through application to the
+business in hand, but that is about all that distinguishes the
+successful angler. The shad campaign is one that requires pluck and
+endurance; no regular sleep, no regular meals; wet and cold, heat
+and wind and tempest, and no great gains at last. But the sturgeon
+fishers, who come later and are seen the whole summer through, have
+an indolent, lazy time of it. They fish around the 'slack-water,'
+catching the last of the ebb and the first of the flow, and hence
+drift but little either way. To a casual observer they appear as if
+anchored and asleep. But they wake up when they have a 'strike,' which
+may be every day, or not once a week. The fishermen keep their eye on
+the line of buoys, and when two or more of them are hauled under, he
+knows his game has run foul of the net, and he hastens to the point.
+The sturgeon is a pig, without the pig's obstinacy. He spends much of
+the time rooting and feeding in the mud at the bottom, and encounters
+the net, coarse and strong, when he goes abroad. He strikes, and is
+presently hopelessly entangled, when he comes to the top and is pulled
+into the boat, like a great sleepy sucker. For so dull and lubbery
+a fish, the sturgeon is capable of some very lively antics; as, for
+instance, his habit of leaping full length into the air and coming
+down with a great splash. He has thus been known to leap unwittingly
+into a passing boat, to his own great surprise, and to the alarm and
+consternation of the inmates."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The swelling river, into his green gulfs,
+  Unshadowed save by passing sails above,
+  Takes the redundant glory, and enjoys
+  The summer in his chilly bed.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+    I heard the plaintiff note of the Whip-poor-will from the
+    mountain-side, or was startled now and then by the
+    sudden leap and heavy splash of the sturgeon.
+
+    _Washington Irving._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Germantown.=--Germantown Station is now seen on the east bank,
+and between this and Germantown Dock, three miles to the north, is
+obtained the best view of the "Man in the Mountain," readily traced by
+the following outline: The peak to the south is the knee, the next to
+the north is the breast, and two or three above this the chin, the
+nose and the forehead. How often from the slope of Hillsdale, forty
+miles away on the western trend of the Berkshires, when a boy, playing
+by the fountain-heads of the Kinderhook and the Roeliffe Jansen's
+Creek, have I looked out upon this mountain range aglow in the sunset,
+and at even-tide heard my grandfather tell of his far-off journeys to
+Towanda, Pennsylvania, when he drove through the great Cloves of the
+Catskills, where twice he met "a bear" which retreated at the sound
+of his old flint-lock, and then when I went to sleep at night how I
+pulled the coverlet closer about my head, all on account of those two
+bears that had been dead for more than forty years.
+
+[Illustration: THE MAN IN THE MOUNTAIN.]
+
+       * * *
+
+  And, sister, now my children come
+    To find the water just as cool,
+  To play about our grandsire's home,
+    To see our pictures in the pool.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Alps of the Hudson, whose bold summits rise
+  Into the upper ether of the skies,
+  Cleaving with calm content
+  The cloudless crystal of the firmament.
+
+  _Joel Benton._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Catskills were called by the Indians On-ti-o-ras, or mountains of
+the sky, as they sometimes seem like clouds along the horizon. This
+range of mountains was supposed by the Indians to have been originally
+a monster who devoured all the children of the red men, until the
+great spirit touched him when he was going down to the salt lake to
+bathe, and here he remains. "Two little lakes upon the summit were
+regarded the eyes of the monster, and these are open all the summer;
+but in the winter they are covered with a thick crust or heavy film;
+but whether sleeping or waking tears always trickle down his cheeks.
+In these mountains, according to Indian belief, was kept the great
+treasury of storm and sunshine, presided over by an old squaw spirit
+who dwelt on the highest peak of the mountains. She kept day and
+night shut up in her wigwam, letting out only one at a time. She
+manufactured new moons every month, cutting up the old ones into
+stars," and, like the old AEolus of mythology, shut the winds up in the
+caverns of the hills:--
+
+Where Manitou once lived and reigned,
+  Great Spirit of a race gone by,
+And Ontiora lies enchained
+  With face uplifted to the sky.
+
+The Catskill Mountains are now something more than a realm of romance
+and poetry or a mountain range of beauty along our western horizon,
+for, from this time forth the old squaw spirit will be kept busy with
+her "Treasury of Tear Clouds," as the water supply of New York is to
+come from these mountain sources.
+
+=The Catskill Water Supply.=--The cost of this great undertaking is
+estimated at $162,000,000. Four creeks: The Esopus, Rondout, Schoharie
+and Catskill will constitute the main source of supply. The total area
+of the entire watershed is over nine hundred square miles, and the
+supply will exceed 800,000,000 gallons daily. The work projected will
+bring to the city 500,000,000 gallons per day.
+
+The Ashoken Reservoir, 12 miles long and two miles wide, will hold
+120,000,000,000 gallons. The Catskill Aqueduct supply from Ashoken
+Reservoir will deliver the water without pumping to Hill View
+Reservoir in Yonkers high enough for gravity distribution. It will
+take from ten to fifteen years to complete the work, which is begun
+none too early, as the population of Greater New York will be over
+5,000,000 in 1915, and its water consumption 1,000,000,000 gallons. In
+1930 the population will be 7,000,000 and will call for a consumption
+of 100,000,000,000 gallons daily. We are indeed "ancients of the earth
+and in the morning of our times." From the far limits of the gathering
+grounds some of the water will flow 130 miles to reach the city hall,
+and 20 miles further to the southern extremity of Staten Island.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The majestic Hudson is on my left,
+    The Catskills rise in my dream;
+  The cataracts leap from the mountain cleft
+    And the brooks in the sunlight gleam.
+
+  _Minot F. Savage._
+
+       * * *
+
+Between Old Cro' Nest and Cold Spring the water will be syphoned under
+the Hudson through a concrete tube six hundred feet below the surface
+of the river.
+
+The Croton Water Works, at a cost of about $14,000,000, completed in
+1842, were regarded the greatest undertaking since the Roman Aqueduct.
+Many improvements to meet increased demand have been made since that
+time. Fifty years from now it is quite possible that the Catskill
+System will seem like the Croton of to-day, as a small matter, and our
+next step will be "An Adirondack System," making the successive steps
+of our water supply the Croton, the Catskills and the Adirondacks.
+
+It is fortunate that our city destined to be the world's emporium, has
+everything at hand needed for comfort and safety.
+
+John Bigelow, the literary and political link of the century, born at
+Malden-on-the-Hudson, in 1817, was present at the inauguration of the
+work at Cold Spring, June, 1907. It was the writer's privilege to meet
+him often on the Hudson River steamers in the decade of 1870, and
+to receive from him many graphic descriptions of the early life and
+customs of the Hudson. What memories must have thronged upon him as he
+contrasted the life of three generations!
+
+=The Clover Reach.=--We are now in what is known as The Clover Reach
+of the Hudson which extends to the Backerack near Athens. One mile
+above Germantown Dock stood Nine Mile Tree, a landmark among old river
+pilots so named on account of its marking a point nine miles from
+Hudson. Above this the Roeliffe Jansen's Kill flows into the river,
+known by the Indians as Saupenak, rising in Hillsdale within a few
+feet of Greenriver Creek, immortal in Bryant's verse. The Greenriver
+flows east into the Housatonic, the Jansen south into Dutchess County,
+whence it takes a northerly course until it joins the Hudson. The
+Burden iron furnaces above the mouth of the stream form an ugly
+feature in the landscape. This is the southern boundary of the Herman
+Livingston estate, whose house is one mile and a half further up the
+river, near Livingston Dock, beneath Oak Hill. Greenville station is
+now seen on the east bank, directly opposite Catskill Landing, which
+the steamer is now approaching.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The fields and waters seem to us this Sabbath morning
+    from the summit of the Catskills, no more truly
+    property than the skies that shine upon them.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Catskill=, 111 miles from New York, was founded in 1678 by the
+purchase of several square miles from the Indians. The landing is
+immediately above the mouth of the Catskill or Kaaterskill Creek. It
+is said that the creek and mountains derive their name as follows: It
+is known that each tribe had a _totemic_ emblem, or rude banner; the
+Mahicans had the wolf as their emblem, and some say that the word
+Mahican means an enchanted wolf. (The Lenni Lenapes, or Delawares, had
+the turkey as their totem.) Catskill was the southern boundary of the
+Mahicans on the west bank, and here they set up their emblem. It is
+said from this fact the stream took the name of Kaaterskill. The
+large cat or wolf, similar in appearance, forms the mark of King
+Aepgin on his deed to Van Rensselaer. Perhaps, however, the mountains
+at one time abounded in these animals, and the name may be only a
+coincidence. The old village, with its main street, lies along the
+valley of the Catskill Creek, not quite a mile from the Catskill
+Landing, and preserves some of the features of the days when
+_Knickerbocker_ was accustomed to pay it an annual visit. The location
+seems to have been chosen as a place of security--out of sight to one
+voyaging up the river. The northern slope now reveals fine residences,
+all of which command extensive views. Just out of the village proper,
+on a beautiful outlook, stands the charming Prospect Park Hotel. The
+drives and pedestrian routes in the vicinity of Catskill are well
+condensed by Walton Van Loan, a resident of the village, whose guide
+to the Catskills is the best on this region and will be of great
+service to all who would like to understand thoroughly the mountain
+district.
+
+=The Northern Catskills.=--The northern and southern divisions have
+been indicated not so much as mountain divisions, but in order to
+better emphasize the two routes, which converge from Kingston
+and Catskill toward each other, drawn by two principal points of
+attraction, the Catskill Mountain House and the Hotel Kaaterskill.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Ah! how often when I have been abroad on the mountains
+    has my heart risen in grateful praise to God that
+    it was not my destiny to waste and pine among those
+    noisome congregations of the city.
+
+    _John James Audubon._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Catskill Mountain House= has been widely known for almost a
+century. The original proprietor had the choice of location in 1823,
+when the entire range was a vast mountain wilderness, and he made
+excellent selection for its site. It seems as if the rocky balcony
+was especially reared two thousand feet above the valley for a grand
+outlook and restful resort. "What can you see," exclaimed Natty
+Bumppo, one of Cooper's favorite characters. "Why, all the world;" and
+this is the feeling to-day of everyone looking down from this point
+upon the Hudson Valley.
+
+The Mountain House Park has a valley frontage of over three miles in
+extent, and consists of 2,780 acres of magnificent forest and farming
+lands, traversed in all directions by many miles of carriage roads
+and paths, leading to various noted places of interest. The Crest,
+Newman's Ledge, Bear's Den, Prospect Rock on North Mountain, and
+Eagle Rock and Palenville Overlook on South Mountain, from which
+the grandest views of the region are obtained, are contained in the
+property. It also includes within its boundaries North and South
+Lakes, both plentifully stocked with various kind of fish and well
+supplied with boats and canoes. The atmosphere is delightful,
+invigorating and pure; the great elevation and surrounding forest
+render it free from malaria. The temperature is fifteen to twenty
+degrees lower than at Catskill Village, New York City or Philadelphia.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Cooper's "Leatherstocking" is the one melodious synopsis
+    of man and nature.
+
+    _Thomas Carlyle._
+
+       * * *
+
+The =_Otis Elevating Railway_=, made possible by the enterprise of
+the late Commodore Van Santvoord, extends from Otis Junction on the
+_Catskill Mountain Railway_ to Otis Summit, a noble altitude of the
+Catskill Range. The incline railway, 7,000 feet in length, ascends
+1,600 feet and attains an elevation of 2,200 feet above the Hudson
+River. "In length, elevation, overcome and carrying capacity it
+exceeds any other incline railway in the world. It is operated by
+powerful stationary engines and huge steel wire cables, and the method
+employed is similar to that used by the Otis Elevator Company for
+elevators in buildings. Every safeguard has been provided, so that an
+accident of any kind is practically impossible. Should the machinery
+break, the cables snap or track spread, an ingenious automatic device
+would stop the cars at once. A passenger car and baggage car are
+attached to each end of double cables which pass around immense drums
+located at the top of the incline. While one train rises the other
+descends, passing each other midway. By this arrangement trains
+carrying from seventy-five to one hundred passengers can be run in
+each direction every fifteen minutes when necessary, the time required
+for a trip being only ten minutes. This is a vast improvement over the
+old way of making the ascent of the mountains by stage, as it reduces
+the time fully one and a half hours, besides adding greatly to the
+pleasure of the trip. The ride up the mountains on the incline railway
+is a novel and delightful experience, and is alone worth a visit to
+the Catskills. As the train ascends, the magnificent panorama of the
+valley of the Hudson, extending for miles and miles, is gradually
+unfolded; while the river itself, like a ribbon of silver glistening
+in the sun, and the Berkshire Hills in the distance seem to rise to
+the view of the passenger. At the summit of the incline passengers for
+the Laurel House, Haines Corners, Ontiora, Sunset, Twilight, Santa
+Cruz, Elka Park, and Tannersville, take the trains of the _Kaaterskill
+Railroad_, which connect with the _Otis Elevating Railway_."
+
+       * * *
+
+  The din of toil comes faintly swelling up
+  From green fields far below, and all around
+  The forest sea sends up its ceaseless roar
+  Like the ocean's everlasting chime.
+
+  _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+Two miles from the summit landing are the Kaaterskill Falls. The upper
+fall 175 feet, lower fall 85 feet. The amphitheatre behind the cascade
+is the scene of one of Bryant's finest poems:
+
+  "From greens and shades where the Kaaterskill leaps
+  From cliffs where the wood flowers cling;"
+
+and we recall the lines which express so beautifully the well-nigh
+fatal dream
+
+    "Of that dreaming one
+  By the base of that icy steep,
+    When over his stiffening limbs begun
+  The deadly slumber of frost to creep."
+
+About half-way up the old mountain carriage road, is the place said to
+be the dreamland of Rip Van Winkle--the greatest character of American
+mythology, more real than the heroes of Homer or the massive gods
+of Olympus. The railway, however, has rather dispensed with Rip Van
+Winkle's resting-place. The old stage drivers had so long pointed out
+the identical spot where he slept that they had come to believe in it,
+but his spirit still haunts the entire locality, and we can get along
+without his "open air bed chamber." It will not be necessary to quote
+from a recent guide-book that "no intelligent person probably believes
+that such a character ever really existed or had such an experience."
+The explanation is almost as humorous as the legend.
+
+=The Hotel Kaaterskill=, whose name and fame went over a continent
+even before it was fairly completed, is located on the summit of the
+Kaaterskill Mountain, three miles by carriage or one by path from the
+Catskill Mountain House. It is the largest mountain hotel at this
+time in the world, accommodating 1,200 guests, and the Catskills have
+reason to feel proud of this distinction. They have for many years had
+the best-known legend--the wonderful and immortal Rip Van Winkle. They
+have always enjoyed the finest valley views of any mountain outlook,
+and they have a right to the best hotels.
+
+       * * *
+
+    There is a fall in the hills, where the water of two
+    little ponds runs over the rocks into the valley. The
+    first pitch is nigh two hundred feet and the water looks
+    like flakes of driven snow before it touches the bottom.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+It may seem antiquated and old-fashioned in the midst of elevated
+railroads to speak of mountain driveways, but that to Palenville, as
+we last saw it, was a beautiful piece of engineering--as smooth as a
+floor and securely built. It looks as if it were intended to last for
+a century, the stone work is so thoroughly finished. The views from
+this road are superior to anything we have seen in the Catskills, and
+the great sweep of the mountain clove recalls a Sierra Nevada trip on
+the way to the Yosemite.
+
+The writer will never forget another Catskill drive fully twenty
+years ago. Starting one morning with a pair of mustang ponies from
+Phoenicia, we called at the Kaaterskill, the Catskill Mountain
+House, and the Laurel House, took supper at Catskill Village, and
+reached New York that evening at eleven o'clock. It is unnecessary to
+say that we were on business--our book was on the press--and we went
+as if one of the printers' best-known companions was on our trail.
+
+Irving's description of his first voyage up the river brings us more
+delicately and gracefully down from these mountains to the Hudson--the
+level highway to the sea. "Of all the scenery of the Hudson, the
+Kaatskill Mountains had the most witching effect on my boyish
+imagination. Never shall I forget the effect upon me of my first view
+of them, predominating over a wide extent of country--part wild, woody
+and rugged; part softened away into all the graces of cultivation. As
+we slowly floated along, I lay on the deck and watched them through a
+long summer's day, undergoing a thousand mutations under the magical
+effects of atmosphere; sometimes seeming to approach; at other times
+to recede; now almost melting into hazy distance, now burnished by the
+setting sun, until in the evening they printed themselves against the
+glowing sky in the deep purple of an Italian landscape."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Limned upon the fair horizon,
+    West from central Hudson's tide,
+  The fair form of Ontiora
+    Throughout ages shall abide.
+
+  _Jared Barhete._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Catskill to Hudson.=
+
+Leaving Catskill dock, the Prospect Park Hotel looks down upon us from
+a commanding point on the west bank, while north of this can be seen
+Cole's Grove, where Thomas Cole, the artist, lived, who painted the
+well-known series, the Voyage of Life. On the east side is Rodger's
+Island, where it is said the last battle was fought between the
+Mahicans and Mohawks; and it is narrated that "as the old king of the
+Mahicans was dying, after the conflict, he commanded his regalia to be
+taken off and his successor put into the kingship while his eyes were
+yet clear to behold him. Over forty years had he worn it, from the
+time he received it in London from Queen Anne. He asked him to kneel
+at his couch, and, putting his withered hand across his brow, placed
+the feathery crown upon his head, and gave him the silver-mounted
+tomahawk--symbols of power to rule and power to execute. Then, looking
+up to the heavens, he said, as if in despair for his race, 'The hills
+are our pillows, and the broad plains to the west our hunting-grounds;
+our brothers are called into the bright wigwam of the Everlasting, and
+our bones lie upon the fields of many battles; but the wisdom of the
+dead is given to the living.'"
+
+On the east bank of the Hudson, above this historic island, is the
+residence of Frederick E. Church, whose glowing canvas has linked the
+Niagara with the Hudson. It commands a wide view of the Berkshire
+Hills to the eastward, and westward to the Catskills. The hill above
+Rodgers' Island, on the east bank, is known as Mount Merino, one of
+the first places to which Merino sheep were brought in this country.
+
+=Hudson=, 115 miles from New York, was founded in the year 1784, by
+thirty persons from Providence, R. I., and incorporated as a city in
+1785. The city is situated on a sloping promontory, bounded by the
+North and South Bays. Its main streets, Warren, Union and Allen, run
+east and west a little more than a mile in length, crossed by Front
+Street, First, Second, Third, etc. Main Street reaches from Promenade
+Park to Prospect Hill. The park is on the bluff just above the
+steamboat landing; we believe this city is the only one on the Hudson
+that has a promenade ground overlooking the river. It commands a fine
+view of the Catskill Mountains, Mount Merino, and miles of the river
+scenery. The city has always enjoyed the reputation of hospitality.
+It is the western terminus of the Hudson and Chatham division of the
+_Boston & Albany Railroad_, and also of the _Kinderhook & Hudson
+Railway_.
+
+       * * *
+
+  White fleecy clouds move slowly by.
+    How cool their shadows fall to-day!
+  A moment on the hills they lie
+    And then like spirits glide away.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman._
+
+       * * *
+
+From an old-time English history we read that Hudson grew more rapidly
+than any other town in America except Baltimore. Standing at the head
+of ship navigation it would naturally have become a great port had it
+not been for the railway and the steamboat which made New York the
+emporium not only of the Hudson, but also of the continent.
+
+Hudson had also a good sprinkling of Nantucket blood, and visitors
+from that quaint old town recognize in portico, stoop and window a
+familiar architecture.
+
+=Columbia Springs=, an old-time resort with pleasant grove and white
+sulphur water, is four miles northeast of Hudson. Its medicinal
+qualities are attested by scores of physicians, and by hundreds who
+have been benefited and cured. The drive is pleasant and the return
+can be made through--
+
+=Claverack=, three and a half miles east of Hudson, a restful
+old-fashioned village situated at the crossing of the Old Post Road
+and the Columbia turnpike and county seat of Columbia in Knickerbocker
+days. The court house on its well-shaded street was for many years the
+home of the late Peter Hoffman. The Dutch Reformed Church, built of
+bricks brought from Holland, wears on its brow wrinkles of antiquity,
+emphasized by the date 1767 on its walls. It is said that General
+Washington encamped here, but there is no historical data to confirm
+the tradition. Claverack Falls is well worth a visit, which can easily
+be made in an afternoon stroll. Copake Lake, to the southeast, can be
+reached by a drive of about twelve miles, a fine sheet of water ten
+miles in circumference, with a picturesque island connected to the
+main land by a causeway. Forty years ago a romantic ruin of a stone
+mansion still stood on this island, where the writer, when a boy, used
+to wander around the deserted rooms looking for ghosts, but the walls
+were torn down July 4, 1866, as the place was frequented every summer
+by a remnant of the old Stockbridge tribe. The neighbors thought the
+best way of getting rid of the "noble red men" was to burn up the
+hive. The mansion was built by a Miss Livingston, but she soon
+exchanged her island home for Florence and the classic associations
+of Italy. Bash-Bish, one mile from Copake Station on the _Harlem
+Railroad_, one of the most romantic glens in our country, has been
+visited and eulogized by Henry Ward Beecher, Bayard Taylor and many
+distinguished writers and travelers. Soon after leaving Copake Station
+a beautiful carriage road, but extremely narrow, strikes the left bank
+of this mountain stream, and for a long distance follows its rocky
+channel. On the right a thickly wooded hill rises abruptly more than a
+thousand feet--a perfect wall of foliage from base to summit. A mile
+brings one to the lower falls; the upper falls are about a quarter of
+a mile farther up the gorge. The height of the falls, with the rapids
+between, is about 300 feet above the little rustic bridge at the foot
+of the lower falls. The glen between is a place of wild beauty, with
+rocks and huge boulders "in random ruin piled."
+
+       * * *
+
+  I saw the green banks of the castle-crowned Rhine,
+  Where the grapes drink the moonlight and change into wine,
+  But my heart would still yearn for the sound of the waves
+  That sing as they flow by my forefather's graves.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Hillsdale Village= has a beautiful location and affords a good
+central point for visiting Mount Everett, with its wide prospect
+(altitude 2,624 feet), Copake Lake six miles to the west, Bash-Bish
+Falls six miles south, and Po-ka-no five miles to the northeast,
+sometimes known as White's Hill. The Po-ka-no, Columbia County's
+noblest outlook, 1,713 feet, commands the Hudson Valley for eighty
+miles; and the owner says that he saw the fireworks from there the
+night of the Newburgh centennial in 1883. From the summit can be seen
+"Monument Mountain" and the Green Mountains of Vermont. At its base
+glides the "Green River Creek," which flows into the Housatonic near
+Great Barrington. From this point the drive can be continued to North
+Egremont, South Egremont, Great Barrington and Monument Mountain.
+Before the days of railroads the Columbia turnpike was the great trade
+artery of the city of Hudson. It was interesting to hear William
+Cullen Bryant recount his experiences in driving from his home in
+Great Barrington over the well-known highway on his way to New York.
+The _Housatonic_ and _Harlem Railroads_ tapped its life and have left
+many a sleepy village along the route, once astir in staging days. The
+stone for Girard College was drawn from Massachusetts quarries over
+this route and shipped to Philadelphia from Hudson. The Lebanon
+Valley, in the northeastern part of the county, is considered one of
+the most beautiful in the State, and said by Sir Henry Vincent, the
+English orator, to resemble the far-famed valley of Llangollen, in
+Wales. The Wy-a-mon-ack Creek flows through the valley, joining its
+waters with the Kinderhook. Quechee Lake is near at hand, where Miss
+Warner was born, author of "Queechee" and the "Wide Wide World."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Welcome ye pleasant dales and hills,
+    Where dream-like passed my early days!
+  Ye cliffs and glens and laughing rills
+    That sing unconscious hymns of praise!
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lindenwald=, a solid and substantial residence, home of President
+Martin Van Buren, where he died in 1862, is two miles from the
+pleasant village of Kinderhook. Columbia County just missed the proud
+distinction of rearing two presidents, as Samuel J. Tilden was born in
+the town of Lebanon. Elisha Williams, John Van Buren and many others
+have given lustre to her legal annals.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Ever fonder, ever dearer
+    Seems our youth that hastened by,
+  And we love to live in memory
+    When our fond hopes fade and die.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Hudson to Albany.=
+
+=Athens.=--Directly opposite Hudson, and connected with it by ferry,
+is the classically named village of Athens. An old Mahican settlement
+known as Potick was located a little back from the river. We are now
+in the midst of the great
+
+="Ice Industry,"= which reaches from below Staatsburgh to Castleton
+and Albany, well described by John Burroughs in his article on the
+Hudson: "No man sows, yet many men reap a harvest from the Hudson. Not
+the least important is the ice harvest, which is eagerly looked for,
+and counted upon by hundreds, yes, thousands of laboring men along its
+course. Ice or no ice sometimes means bread or no bread to scores of
+families, and it means added or diminished comforts to many more. It
+is a crop that takes two or three weeks of rugged winter weather to
+grow, and, if the water is very roily or brackish, even longer. It is
+seldom worked till it presents seven or eight inches of clear water
+ice. Men go out from time to time and examine it, as the farmer goes
+out and examines his grain or grass, to see when it will do to cut. If
+there comes a deep fall of snow the ice is 'pricked' so as to let the
+water up through and form snow ice. A band of fifteen or twenty men,
+about a yard apart, each armed with a chisel-bar, and marching in
+line, puncture the ice at each step, with a single sharp thrust. To
+and fro they go, leaving a belt behind them that presently becomes
+saturated with water. But ice, to be of first quality, must grow from
+beneath, not from above. It is a crop quite as uncertain as any other.
+A good yield every two or three years, as they say of wheat out west,
+is about all that can be counted upon. When there is an abundant
+harvest, after the ice houses are filled, they stack great quantities
+of it, as the farmer stacks his surplus hay. Such a fruitful winter
+was that of '74-5, when the ice formed twenty inches thick. The stacks
+are given only a temporary covering of boards, and are the first ice
+removed in the season. The cutting and gathering of the ice enlivens
+these broad, white, desolate fields amazingly. My house happens to
+stand where I look down upon the busy scene, as from a hill-top upon
+a river meadow in haying time, only here figures stand out much
+more sharply than they do from a summer meadow. There is the broad,
+straight, blue-black canal emerging into view, and running nearly
+across the river; this is the highway that lays open the farm. On
+either side lie the fields, or ice meadows, each marked out by cedar
+or hemlock boughs. The farther one is cut first, and when cleared,
+shows a large, long, black parallelogram in the midst of the plain
+of snow. Then the next one is cut, leaving a strip or tongue of ice
+between the two for the horses to move and turn upon. Sometimes nearly
+two hundred men and boys, with numerous horses, are at work at once,
+marking, plowing, planing, scraping, sawing, hauling, chiseling; some
+floating down the pond on great square islands towed by a horse, or
+their fellow workmen; others distributed along the canal, bending to
+their ice-hooks; others upon the bridges separating the blocks with
+their chisel bars; others feeding the elevators; while knots and
+straggling lines of idlers here and there look on in cold discontent,
+unable to get a job. The best crop of ice is an early crop. Late in
+the season or after January, the ice is apt to get 'sun-struck,' when
+it becomes 'shaky,' like a piece of poor timber. The sun, when he
+sets about destroying the ice, does not simply melt it from the
+surface--that were a slow process; but he sends his shafts into it and
+separates it into spikes and needles--in short, makes kindling-wood of
+it, so as to consume it the quicker. One of the prettiest sights about
+the ice harvesting is the elevator in operation. When all works well,
+there is an unbroken procession of the great crystal blocks slowly
+ascending this incline. They go up in couples, arm in arm, as it were,
+like friends up a stairway, glowing and changing in the sun, and
+recalling the precious stones that adorned the walls of the celestial
+city. When they reach the platform where they leave the elevator, they
+seem to step off like things of life and volition; they are still in
+pairs and separate only as they enter upon the 'runs.' But here they
+have an ordeal to pass through, for they are subjected to a rapid
+inspection and the black sheep are separated from the flock; every
+square with a trace of sediment or earth-stain in it, whose texture
+is not perfect and unclouded crystal, is rejected and sent hurling
+down into the abyss; a man with a sharp eye in his head and a sharp
+ice-hook in his hand picks out the impure and fragmentary ones as they
+come along and sends them quickly overboard. Those that pass the
+examination glide into the building along the gentle incline, and are
+switched off here and there upon branch runs, and distributed to all
+parts of the immense interior."
+
+       * * *
+
+  But when in the forest bare and old
+    The blast of December calls,
+  He builds in the starlight clear and cold
+    A palace of ice where his torrent falls.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where the frost trees shoot with leaf and spray
+  And frost gems scatter a silver ray.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+  How fair the thronging pictures run,
+    What joy the vision fills--
+  The star-glow and the setting sun
+    Amid the northern hills.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+Passing west of the Hudson Flats we see North Bay, crossed by the _New
+York Central Railroad_. Kinderhook Creek meets the river about three
+miles north of Hudson, directly above which is Stockport Station for
+Columbiaville. Four Mile Light-house is now seen on the opposite bank.
+Nutten Hook, or Coxsackie Station, is four miles above Stockport.
+Opposite this point, and connected by a ferry, is the village of--
+
+=Coxsackie= (name derived from Kaak-aki, or place of wild geese, "aki"
+in Indian signifies place and it is singular to find the Indian word
+"Kaak" so near to the English "cackle"). Two miles north Stuyvesant
+Landing is seen on the east bank, the nearest station on the _New
+York Central & Hudson River Railroad_, by carriage, to Valatie and
+Kinderhook. The name Kinderhook is said to have had its origin from a
+point on the Hudson prolific in children; as the children were always
+out of doors to see the passing craft, it was known as Kinderhook, or
+"children's point." Passing Bronk's Island, due west of which empties
+Coxsackie Creek, we see Stuyvesant Light-house on our right, and
+approach New Baltimore, a pleasant village on the west bank, with
+sloop and barge industry. About a mile above the landing is the
+meeting point of four counties: Greene and Albany on the west,
+Columbia and Rensselaer on the east. Beeren Island, connected with
+Coeyman's Landing by small steamer, now a picnic resort, lies near the
+west bank, where it will be remembered the first white child was born
+on the Hudson. Here was the Castle of Rensselaertein, before which
+Antony Van Corlear read again and again the proclamation of Peter
+Stuyvesant, and from which he returned with a diplomatic reply,
+forming one of the most humorous chapters in Irving's "Knickerbocker."
+Threading our way through low-lying islands and river flats, and
+"slowing down" occasionally on meeting canal boats or other river
+craft, we pass Coeyman's on our left and Lower Schodack Island on
+our right, due east of which is the station of Schodack Landing. The
+writer of this handbook remembers distinctly a winter's evening walk
+from Schodack Landing, crossing the frozen Hudson and snow-covered
+island on an ill-defined trail. He was on his way to deliver his first
+lecture, February, 1868, and his subject was "The Legends and Poetry
+of the Hudson." Since that time he has written and re-written many
+guides to the river, so that the present handbook is not a thing of
+yesterday. The next morning, on his return to Schodack, he had for
+his companion a young man from twenty or thirty miles inland, who had
+never seen a train of cars except in the distance. On reaching the
+railway, one of the New York expresses swept by, and as he caught the
+motion of the bell cord he turned and said: "Do they drive it with
+that little string?" Lower Schodack Island, Mills Plaat (also an
+island) and Upper Schodack Island reach almost to--
+
+=Castleton=, a pleasant village on the eastern bank, with main street
+lying close to the river. The cliffs, a few miles to the north, were
+known to the Indians as Scoti-ack, or place of the ever-burning
+council-fire, which gave the name of Schodack to the township, where
+King Aepgin, on the 8th of April, 1680, sold to Van Rensselaer "all
+that tract of country on the west side of the Hudson, extending from
+Beeren Island up to Smack's Island, and in breadth two days' journey."
+
+       * * *
+
+    No spot in all the world where poetry and romance
+    are so closely blended with the heroic in history as
+    along the banks of our Hudson.
+
+    _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+THE MAHICAN TRIBE originally occupied all the east bank of the Hudson
+north of Roeliffe Jansen's Kill, near Germantown, to the head waters
+of the Hudson; and on the west bank, from Cohoes to Catskill. The town
+of Schodack was central, and a signal displayed from the hills near
+Castleton could be seen for thirty miles in every direction. After the
+Mahicans left the Hudson, they went to Westenhook, or Housatonic,
+to the hills south of Stockbridge; and then, on invitation of the
+Oneidas, removed to Oneida County, in 1785, where they lived until
+1821, when, with other Indians of New York, they purchased a tract of
+land near Fox River, Minnesota.
+
+Domestic clans or families of the Mahicans lingered around their
+ancient seats for some years after the close of the Revolution, but
+of them, one after another, it is written, "They disappeared in the
+night." In the language of Tamerund at the death of Uncas, "The
+pale-faces are masters of the earth, and the time of the red men has
+not yet come again. My day has been too long. In the morning I saw the
+sons of Unami happy and strong; and yet before the night has come,
+have I lived to see the last warrior of the race of the Mahicans."
+
+       * * *
+
+    Autumn had given uniformity of coloring to the woods.
+    It varied now between copper and gold, and shone like
+    an infinitely rich golden embroidery on the Indian veil
+    of mist which rested upon the heights along the Hudson.
+
+    _Harriet Martineau._
+
+       * * *
+
+According to Ruttenber, the names and location of the Indian tribes
+were not ascertained with clearness by the early Dutch settlers, but
+through documents, treaties and information, subsequently obtained,
+it is now settled that the Mahicans held possession "under sub-tribal
+organizations" of the east bank of the river from an undefined point
+north of Albany to the sea, including Long Island; that their dominion
+extended east to the Connecticut, where they joined kindred tribes;
+that on the west bank of the Hudson they ran down as far as Catskill,
+and west to Schenectady; that they were met on the west by the
+territory of the Mohawks, and on the south by tribes of the Lenni
+Lenapes or Delawares, whose territory extended thence to the sea, and
+west to and beyond the Delaware River. The Mahicans had a castle at
+Catskill and at Cohoes Falls. The western side of the Hudson, above
+Cohoes, belonged to the Mohawks, a branch of the Iroquois. Therefore,
+as early as 1630, three great nations were represented on the Hudson--
+
+=The Mahicans, the Delawares and the Iroquois.= The early French
+missionaries refer to the "nine nations of Manhinyans, gathered
+between Manhattan and the environs of Quebec." These several nations
+have never been accurately designated, although certain general
+divisions appear under the titles of Mohegan, Wappinger, Sequins,
+etc. "The government of the Mahicans was a democracy. The office was
+hereditary by the lineage of the wife; that is, the selection of a
+successor on the death of the chief, was confined to the female branch
+of the family." According to Ruttenber, the precise relation between
+the Mahicans of the Hudson and the Mohegans under Uncas, the Pequot
+chief, is not known. In a foot-note to this statement, he says: "The
+identity of name between the Mahicans and Mohegans, induces the belief
+that all these tribes belonged to the same stock,--although they
+differed in dialect, in territory, and in their alliances." The two
+words, therefore, must not be confounded.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Round about the Indian village
+  Spread the meadows and the cornfields,
+  Stood the groves of singing pine trees,
+  And beyond them stood the forest,
+
+  _Henry W. Longfellow._
+
+       * * *
+
+It is also pleasant to remember that the Mahicans as a tribe were true
+and faithful to us during the war of the Revolution, and when the six
+nations met in council at Oswego, at the request of Guy Johnson and
+other officers of the British army, "to eat the flesh and drink the
+blood of a Bostonian," Hendrick, the Mahican, made the pledge for his
+tribe at Albany, almost in the eloquent words of Ruth to Naomi, "Thy
+people shall be our people, and whither thou goest we will be at your
+side."
+
+=The Mourdener's Kill=, with its sad story of a girl tied by Indians
+to a horse and dragged through the valley, flows into the Hudson above
+Castleton. Two miles above this near the steamer channel will be seen
+Staats Island on the east, with an old stone house, said to be next in
+antiquity to the old Van Rensselaer House, opposite Albany. It is also
+a fact that this property passed directly to the ancestors of the
+present family, the only property in this vicinity never owned by the
+lord of the manor. Opposite the old stone house, the point on the west
+bank is known as Parda Hook, where it is said a horse was once drowned
+in a horse-race on the ice, and hence the name Parda, for the old
+Hollanders along the Hudson seemed to have had a musical ear, and
+delighted in accumulating syllables. (The word pard is used in Spenser
+for spotted horse, and still survives in the word leopard.)
+
+The Castleton Bar or "overslaugh," as it was known by the river
+pilots, impeded for years navigation in low water. Commodore Van
+Santvoord and other prominent citizens brought the subject before the
+State legislature, and work was commenced in 1863. In 1868 the United
+States Government very properly (as their jurisdiction extends over
+tide-water), assumed the completing of the dykes, which now stretch
+for miles along the banks and islands of the upper Hudson. Here and
+there along our route between Coxsackie and Albany will be seen great
+dredges deepening and widening the river channel. The plan provides
+for a system of longitudinal dykes to confine the current sufficiently
+to allow the ebb and flow of the tidal-current to keep the channel
+clear. These dykes are to be gradually brought nearer together from
+New Baltimore toward Troy, so as to assist the entrance of the
+flood-current and increase its height.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where Hudson winds his silver way
+  And murmurs at the tardy stay,
+      Impatient at delay.
+
+  _William Crow._
+
+       * * *
+
+The engineers report that the greater part of the material carried in
+suspension in the Hudson river above Albany is believed to come from
+the Mohawk river, and its tributary the Schoharie river, while the
+sands and gravel that form the heavy and obstinate bars near Albany
+and chiefly between Albany and Troy, come from the upper Hudson.
+
+The discharge of the Hudson between Troy and Albany at its lowest
+stage may be taken at about 3,000 cubic feet per second. The river
+supply, therefore, during that stage is inadequate in the upper part
+of the river for navigation, independent of tidal flow.
+
+The greatest number of bars is between Albany and Troy, where the
+channel is narrow, and at least six obstructing bars, composed of fine
+and coarse gravel and coarse and fine sand, are in existence. In many
+places between Albany and Troy the navigable depth is reduced to 71/2
+feet by the presence of these bars.
+
+From Albany to New Baltimore the depths are variable, the prevailing
+depth being 10 feet and over, with pools of greater depth separated by
+long cross-over bars, over which the greatest depth does not exceed
+9 or 10 feet. Passing many delightful homes on the west bank and the
+mouth of the Norman's Kill (Indian name Ta-wa-sentha, place of many
+dead) and the Convent of the Sacred Heart, we see Dow's Point on the
+east and above this the--
+
+=Van Rensselaer Place=, with its port holes on either side of the door
+facing the river, showing that it was built in troublesome times.
+It is the oldest of the Patroon manor houses, built in 1640 or
+thereabouts. It has been said that the adaptation of the old tune now
+known as "Yankee Doodle" was made near the well in the grounds of the
+Van Rensselaer Place by Dr. Richard Shuckberg, who was connected with
+the British army when the Colonial troops from New England marched
+into camp at Albany to join the British regulars on their way to fight
+the French. The tune was known in New England before the Revolution as
+"Lydia Fisher's Jig," a name derived from a famous lady who lived
+in the reign of Charles II, and which has been perpetuated in the
+following rhyme:
+
+  Lucy Locket lost her pocket,
+    Lydia Fisher found it;
+  Not a bit of money in it,
+    Only binding 'round it.
+
+The appearance of the troops called down the derision of the British
+officers, the hit of the doctor became known throughout the army, and
+the song was used as a method of showing contempt for the Colonials
+until after Lexington and Concord.
+
+       * * *
+
+                  When life is old
+  And many a scene forgot the heart will hold
+  Its memory of this.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Rensselaer=, on the east bank of the river, was incorporated in 1896
+by the union of Greenbush and East Albany. The old name of Greenbush,
+which still survives in East Greenbush, four miles distant, was given
+to it by the old Dutch settlers, and it was probably a "green-bushed"
+place in early days. Now pleasant residences and villas look out upon
+the river from the near bank and distant hillsides. Two railroad
+bridges and a carriage bridge cross the Hudson at this point. During
+the French war in 1775, Greenbush was a military rendezvous, and in
+1812 the United States Government established extensive barracks,
+whence troops were forwarded to Canada.
+
+=Albany=, 144 miles from New York. (_New York Central & Hudson River
+Railroad_, _Boston & Albany_, _West Shore_, _Delaware and Hudson_, the
+_Hudson River Day Line_ and _People's Line_.) Its site was called by
+the Indians Shaunaugh-ta-da (Schenectady), or the Pine Plains. It
+was next known by the early Dutch settlers as "Beverwyck," "William
+Stadt," and "New Orange." The seat of the State Government was
+transferred from New York to Albany in 1798. In 1714, when 100 years
+old, it had a population of about 3,000, one-sixth of whom were
+slaves. In 1786 it increased to about 10,000. In 1676, the city
+comprised within the limits of Pearl, Beaver and Steuben streets, was
+surrounded by wooden walls with six gates. They were 13 feet high,
+made of timber a foot square. It is said that a portion of these walls
+were remaining in 1812. The first railroad in the State and the second
+in the United States was opened from Albany to Schenectady in 1831.
+The pictures of these old coaches are very amusing, and the rate of
+speed was only a slight improvement on a well-organized stage line.
+From an old book in the State Library we condense the following
+description, presenting quite a contrast to the city of to-day:
+"Albany lay stretched along the banks of the Hudson, on one very wide
+and long street, parallel to the Hudson. The space between the street
+and the river bank was occupied by gardens. A small but steep hill
+rose above the centre of the town, on which stood a fort. The wide
+street leading to the fort (now State street) had a Market-Place,
+Guard-House, Town Hall, and an English and Dutch Church, in the
+centre."
+
+       * * *
+
+  I wandered afar from the land of my birth,
+  I saw the old rivers renowned upon earth,
+  But fancy still painted that wide-flowing stream
+  With the many-hued pencil of infancy's dream.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+Tourists and others will be amply repaid in visiting the new Capitol
+building, at the head of State Street. It is open from nine in the
+morning until six in the evening. It is said to be larger than the
+Capitol at Washington, and cost more than any other structure on the
+American continent. The staircases, the wide corridors, the Senate
+chamber, the Assembly chamber, and the Court of Appeals room, attest
+the wealth and greatness of the Empire State. The visitor up State
+Street will note the beautiful and commanding spire of "St. Paul." The
+Cathedral is also a grand structure. The population of Albany is now
+100,000, and its growth is due to three causes: First, the Capitol
+was removed from New York to Albany in 1798. Then followed two great
+enterprises, ridiculed at the time by every one as the _Fulton Folly
+and Clinton's Ditch_--in other words, steam navigation, 1807, and the
+Erie Canal, 1825. Its name was given in honor of the Duke of Albany,
+although it is still claimed by some of the oldest inhabitants that,
+in the golden age of those far-off times, when the good old burghers
+used to ask the welfare of their neighbors, the answer was "All
+bonnie," and hence the name of the hill-crowned city.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Canals, long winding, ope a watery flight,
+  And distant streams and seas and lakes unite;
+  From fair Albania toward the fading sun,
+  Back through the midland lengthening channels run.
+
+  _Joel Barlow._
+
+       * * *
+
+To condense from H. P. Phelps's careful handbook of "Albany and the
+Capitol:" in 1614 a stockaded trading-house was erected on an island
+below the city, well defended for trading with the Indians. In 1617
+another was built on the hill, near Norman's Kill. The West Indian
+Company erected a fort in 1623 near the present landing of the Day
+Line. In 1664 the province fell into the hands of the English and the
+name was changed to Albany. In 1686 it was incorporated into a city.
+It was the meeting place of the Constitutional Congress 1754,
+the proposed Constitution of which, however, was never ratified.
+Washington visited it in 1783. The Erie Canal was opened in 1825,
+a railroad to Schenectady in 1832, the _Hudson River_ in 1851, a
+consolidated road to Buffalo in 1853, and the _Susquehanna Railroad_
+to Binghamton in 1869. State Street at one time was said to be the
+widest city thoroughfare in the country, after Pennsylvania Avenue in
+Washington. The English and Dutch Churches and other public buildings,
+once in the midst of it, but long since removed, account for its
+extra width. The State Capitol has a commanding site. The old Capitol
+building was completed in 1808. The corner-stone of the present
+building was laid June 24, 1871, and it has been occupied since
+January 7, 1879. According to Phelps, "the size of the structure
+impresses the beholder at once. It is 300 feet north and south by 400
+feet east and west, and with the porticoes will cover three acres and
+seven square feet. The walls are 108 feet high from the water-table,
+and all this worked out of solid granite brought, most of it, from
+Hallowell, Me."
+
+The impression produced varies with various persons. One accomplished
+writer finds it "not unlike that made by the photographs of those
+gigantic structures in the northern and eastern parts of India, which
+are seen in full series on the walls of the South Kensington, and by
+their barbaric profusion of ornamentation and true magnificence of
+design give the stay-at-home Briton some faint inkling of the empire
+which has invested his queen with another and more high-sounding
+title. Yet when close at hand the building does not bear out this
+connection with Indian architecture of the grand style; it might be
+mere chance that at a distance there is a similarity; or it may be
+that the smallness of size in the decorations as compared to the
+structure itself explains fully why there is a tendency to confuse the
+eye by the number of projections, arches, pillars, shallow recesses,
+and what-not, which variegate the different facades. The confusion is
+not entirely displeasing; it gives a sense of unstinted riches, and
+represents the spirit that has reared the pile."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Nor let the dear love of its children grow cold
+  Till the channel is dry where its waters have rolled.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+The Governor's room, the golden corridor, the Senate staircase, the
+Senate chamber, the Assembly chamber, and the Court of Appeals room
+are interesting alike for their architectural stone work, decorations
+and general finish. The State Library, dating from 1818, contains
+about 150,000 volumes. The Clinton papers, including Andre's documents
+captured at Tarrytown, are the most interesting of many valuable
+manuscripts. Here also are a sword and pistol once belonging to
+General Washington. The Museum of Military Records and Relics contains
+over 800 battle flags of State regiments, with several ensigns
+captured from the enemy. Near the Capitol are the State Hall and City
+Hall, and on the right, descending State Street, the Geological Hall,
+well worthy an extended visit. The present St. Peter's Episcopal
+Church, third upon the site, is of Schenectady blue stone with brown
+trimmings. Its tower contains "a chime of eleven bells and another
+bell marked 1751, which is used only to ring in the new year."
+Washington Park, consisting of eighty acres and procured at a cost
+of one million dollars, reached by a pleasant drive or by electric
+railway, is a delightful resort. It is noted for its grand trees,
+artistic walks and floral culture. Several fine statues are also
+worthy of mention, notably that of Robert Burns (Charles Calverley,
+sculptor), erected by money left for this purpose by Mrs. McPherson,
+under the careful and tasteful supervision of one of Albany's
+best-known citizens, Mr. Peter Kinnear. A view from Washington Park
+takes in the Catskills and the Helderberg Mountains.
+
+       * * *
+
+    No wonder that his countrymen today, led by the
+    Congress of this great Republic, celebrate the transaction
+    and the scene where Washington refused to accept
+    a crown.
+
+    _William M. Evarts._
+
+       * * *
+
+And now, while waiting to "throw out the plank," which puts a period
+to our Hudson River division, we feel like congratulating ourselves
+that the various goblins which once infested the river have become
+civilized, that the winds and tides have been conquered, and that
+the nine-day voyage of Hendrick Hudson and the "Half Moon" has been
+reduced to the _nine-hour system_ of the Hudson River Day Line.
+
+Those who have traveled over Europe will certainly appreciate the
+quiet luxury of an American steamer; and this first introduction to
+American scenery will always charm the tourist from other lands. No
+single day's journey in any land or on any stream can present such
+variety, interest, and beauty, as the trip of one hundred and
+forty-four miles from New York to Albany. The Hudson is indeed a
+goodly volume, with its broad covers of green _lying open_ on either
+side; and it might in truth be called a _condensed_ history, for there
+is no other place in our country where poetry and romance are so
+strangely blended with the heroic and the historic,--no river where
+the waves of different civilizations have left so many waifs upon the
+banks. It is classic ground, from the "wilderness to the sea," and
+will always be the poets' corner of our country: the home of Irving,
+Willis, and Morris,--of Fulton, Morse, and Field,--of Cole, Audubon,
+and Church,--and of scores besides, whose names are household words.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The Hudson's cable-tow of yore
+    Bound gallant sire and sturdy son
+  With hearty grasp from shore to shore
+    For Robert Burns and Washington.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+THE UPPER HUDSON.
+
+
+=Albany to Saratoga.=
+
+
+_Delaware and Hudson Railway._
+
+A pleasant tour awaits the traveler who continues his journey north
+from Albany, where the _Delaware and Hudson_ train for Saratoga is
+ready at the landing on the arrival of the steamer. A half hour's run
+along the west bank gives us a glimpse of Troy across the river with
+the classical named hills Mount Ida and Mount Olympus. Two streams,
+the Poestenkill and the Wynant's Kill, approach the river on the east
+bank through narrow ravines, and furnish excellent water power. In the
+year 1786 it was called Ferryhook. In 1787, Rensselaerwyck. In the
+fall of 1787 the settlers began to use the name of Vanderheyden, after
+the family who owned a great part of the ground where the city now
+stands. January 9, 1789 the freeholders of the town met and gave it
+the name of Troy. The "Hudson," the "Erie," and the "Champlain" Canals
+have contributed to its growth. The city, with many busy towns, which
+have sprung up around it--Cohoes, Lansingburg, Waterford, etc., is
+central to a population of at least 100,000 people. The Rensselaer
+Polytechnic Institute, the oldest engineering school in America, has a
+national reputation.
+
+=Cohoes=, where the Mohawk joins the Hudson, has one of the finest
+water powers in the country. Its name is of Indian origin and
+signifies "the island at the falls." This was the division line
+between the Mahicans and the Mohawks, and when the water is in full
+force it suggests in graceful curve and sweep a miniature Niagara. The
+view from the double-truss iron bridge (960 feet in length), looking
+up or down the Mohawk, is impressive.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Oh, be my falls as bright as thine!
+  May heaven's relenting rainbow shine
+  Upon the mist that circles me,
+  As soft as now it hangs o'er thee!
+
+  _Thomas Moore._
+
+       * * *
+
+Passing through Waterford, and Mechanicville which lies partly in the
+township of Stillwater, with its historic records of Bemis Heights and
+burial place of Ellsworth, the first martyr of the Civil war, we come
+to--
+
+=Round Lake=, nineteen miles north of Troy, and thirteen south
+of Saratoga, near a beautiful sheet of water, three miles in
+circumference, called by the Indians Ta-nen-da-ho-wa, which
+interpreted, signifies Round Lake. The camp-meeting and assembly
+grounds consist of 200 acres. The air is pure and invigorating and the
+grove and cottages inviting. The drives in the vicinity are delightful
+to Saratoga Lake, to the Hudson River, to the historic battlefields of
+Bemis Heights and Stillwater.
+
+=Ballston Spa=, thirty-one miles from Albany, is the county seat of
+Saratoga. Here are several well-known mineral springs, with chemical
+properties similar to the springs of Saratoga. Over ninety years ago
+Benjamin Douglas, father of Hon. Stephen A. Douglas, built a log
+house, near the "Old Spring," for the accommodation of invalids and
+travelers, and at one time it looked as if Saratoga would have a
+vigorous rival at her very doors; but its hotel glory has departed and
+the old "Sans Souci" of the days of Washington Irving is a thing of
+the past.
+
+       * * *
+
+  A gallant army formed their last array
+  Upon that field, in silence and deep gloom,
+        And at their conqueror's feet,
+        Laid their war-weapons down.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saratoga=, thirty-eight miles north of Albany, one hundred and
+eighty-two miles from New York, is the greatest watering place of the
+continent. Its development has been wonderful, and puts, as it were,
+in large italics, the prosperity of our country. The first white man
+to visit the place was Sir William Johnson, who, in 1767, was conveyed
+there by his Mohawk friends, in the hope that the waters might afford
+relief from the serious effects of a gunshot wound in the thigh,
+received eight years before in the battle of Lake George, at which
+time his army defeated the French legions under Baron Dieskau. It was
+not until the year 1773, six years after Sir William Johnson's initial
+visit, that the first clearing was made and the first cabin erected
+by Derick Scowten. Owing, however, to misunderstandings with his red
+neighbors, he shortly afterwards left. A year later, George Arnold,
+from Rhode Island, took possession of the vacated Scowten House, and
+conducted it with some degree of success for about two years. Arnold
+was in turn followed by Samuel Norton, who failed to make the venture
+successful, owing to the outbreak of the Revolution. Norton was
+succeeded in 1783 by his son, who sold out in 1787 to Gideon Morgan,
+who, in the same year, made the property over to Alexander Bryan.
+Bryan became the first permanent settler after the close of the war.
+The prosperity of the village began in 1789, with the advent of Gideon
+Putnam, but the wooden inns and hotels of 1830, which seemed palatial
+in those days, would get lost even in one of the parlors of the
+mammoth hotels which now line the main street of the village. Chief
+among these hotels, we mention the--
+
+="United States,"= a grand and princely building of noble frontage
+with a bright and spacious interior court, completed in June, 1874. It
+constitutes one continuous line of buildings, six stories high, over
+fifteen hundred feet in length, containing nine hundred and seventeen
+rooms for guests, and is the largest hotel in the world.
+
+=The American-Adelphi= near at hand, also fronting Broadway, always
+cheery and delightful under the management of its popular owner and
+proprietor, Mr. George A. Farnham, has one of the finest locations in
+Saratoga, combining comfort, good attention, a fine table, and every
+convenience of a first-class house. One thing is sure, those who go to
+the "American" return again and again.
+
+=The Speedway, the Race Track, and Driveways.=--Saratoga can justly
+feel proud of her material growth and progress in many directions
+during the last decade, and prominent among her varied attractions are
+the Speedway and Race Track. Mr. W. C. Whitney and many other prominent
+men have contributed liberally in this direction. _The Electric Line_
+to Saratoga Lake is also one of the features of the village, and
+furnishes a delightful forenoon or afternoon's outing.
+
+       * * *
+
+  And boyhood's love and fireside-listened tales
+  Are rushing on your memories, as ye breathe
+        That valley's storied name,--
+        Field of the Grounded Arms.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=The Springs.=--The most prominent springs in and about Saratoga are
+the Hathorn, the Patterson and the Congress. The popularity of the
+Hathorn is attested by the universal sale of its bottled waters
+throughout the United States. The Patterson has won a wide reputation
+which its excellence deserves.
+
+=Historic Saratoga.=--But in the midst of this throbbing, gay and
+delightful Saratoga, we must not forget that it was here the fathers
+of the Republic achieved their most decisive victory. The battle was
+fought in the town of Stillwater, at Bemis Heights, two and a half
+miles from the Hudson. The defeat of St. Leger and the triumph of
+Stark at Bennington filled the American army with hope. Burgoyne's
+army advanced September 19, 1777. The battle was sharply contested. At
+night the Americans retired into their camp, and the British held the
+field. From September 20th to October 7th the armies looked each other
+in the face, each side satisfied from the first day's struggle
+that their opponents were worthy foemen. The Americans had retaken
+Ticonderoga and Lake George. Burgoyne had no place to retreat, and
+the lines were slowly but surely closing in around him. October 7th
+Burgoyne commenced the battle, but in half an hour his line was
+broken. He attempted to rally his troops in person, but they could not
+stand before the impetuous charge of the Americans. He was compelled
+to order a full retreat, and fell back on the heights above
+Schuylerville. The Americans surrounded him, and he surrendered. It
+was a decisive victory, and cheered the friends of freedom, not only
+in America, but in the English House of Commons.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The leaves were red with crimson
+    And then brave Gates did cry,
+  'Tis diamond now cut diamond,
+    We'll beat them boys or die.
+
+  _Ballads of the Revolution._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Mount McGregor=, where General Grant died, associates the Saratoga of
+the Revolution with the story of our Civil War. Near the monument
+to the old heroes at Schuylerville, where Burgoyne surrendered,
+a monument to the Boys in Blue was dedicated in 1904. It was the
+privilege of the writer to be the poet of the occasion, and in his
+lines "The Flag They Bore," to bind the noble memorials of those who
+made and those who saved the Republic.
+
+  Two monuments in triumph stand
+    To catch with joy the morning sun,
+  One chorus joins them hand in hand--
+    Heroes of Grant and Washington.
+
+  And wider yet the chorus leaps!
+    Two famous hills the song unites,
+  As Mount MacGregor's anthem sweeps
+    Across the plains to Bemis Heights.
+
+In Nathaniel Bartlett Sylvester's book, entitled "Historical Sketches
+of Northern New York and the Adirondack Wilderness," we learn that the
+earliest date in which the word Saratoga appears in history is 1684,
+and was then the name of an old hunting ground on both sides of the
+Hudson. Its interpretations have been various. Some say "The Hillside
+Country of the Great River;" others, the place of swift waters, while
+Morgan, in his "League of the Iroquois," says the signification of
+Saratoga is lost.
+
+Whatever the origin of the name whether from the old High Rock spring
+or a "reach of the river," one thing is sure: Saratoga is the most
+attractive point in the country as a gathering place for conventions
+and large meetings, and, in response to the growing demand for
+adequate facilities, a splendid convention hall, with a seating
+capacity for five thousand people, has been erected by the town
+authorities. It is a striking architectural addition to Saratoga's
+attractions.
+
+In 1907 over fifty thousand "Knights" gathered here and were
+hospitably entertained.
+
+       * * *
+
+  And such were Saratoga's victors--such
+  The yeoman-brave, whose deeds and death have given
+              A glory to her skies,
+              A music to her name.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saratoga to the Adirondacks.=
+
+The _Adirondack Railway_ division of the _Delaware and Hudson_
+furnishes one of the pleasantest excursions to the north woods. The
+traveler passes along the romantic and picturesque valley of the upper
+Hudson--through King's, South Corinth, Jessup's Landing to Hadley (the
+railroad station for Luzerne, a charming village at the junction of
+the Hudson and the Sacandaga); then through Stony Creek, Thurman,
+thirty-six miles from Saratoga Springs, at the junction of the Schroon
+and the Hudson; the Glen, forty-four miles; Riverside, fifty miles
+(for Schroon Lake), pleasurable throughout, to North Creek, where
+"Concord coaches" and patent-covered spring buck-boards are in waiting
+for Blue Mountain Lake--distance about thirty miles, through a
+beautiful romantic country.
+
+The water route from this point is as follows: Through Blue Mountain
+Lake and Utowana to the outlet, a distance of seven miles, where a
+"Railway Carry," something less than a mile, brings the traveler to a
+fairy-like steamer on Marion River. The river trip is twelve miles to
+Forked Lake.
+
+Arriving at "Forked Lake Carry," one-half mile brings us to Forked
+Lake, where the traveler gets his first real mountain bill of fare.
+From this point we took a guide to Long Lake. There is a short cut
+from this point over to the Tupper Lakes, which we can commend in
+every particular, and the tourist can either return to Long Lake and
+continue his route to the Saranacs, or go to the Saranacs direct from
+Lake Tupper.
+
+From this point we visit Keene Flats, a charming and healthful spot,
+only five miles from the "Lower Ausable Pond." These ponds, the
+"Lower" and "Upper," are unrivaled in beauty and grandeur. They lie at
+the foot of Mount Marcy, Haystack, the Gothics, and Mount Bartlett.
+
+       * * *
+
+  'Twas in the mellow autumn time
+  When I, an idler from the town,
+  With gun and rod was lured to climb
+  Those peaks where fresh the Hudson takes
+  His tribute from an hundred lakes.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Saratoga to Lake George.=
+
+The traveler will find trains and excursions to suit his convenience
+from Saratoga to our fairest lake. His route takes him through
+Gansevoort and Fort Edward to Glens Falls with the narrowing and
+bright-flowing Hudson for a companion. About one mile beyond Fort
+Edward Station, near the railway on the right, stood, until recently,
+the tree where Jane McCrea was murdered by Indians during the
+Revolution. From Glens Falls the tourist proceeds over the
+well-conducted Lake George division of the _Delaware and Hudson_, and
+soon finds himself in the midst of a historic and romantic region.
+About half way to the lake stands a monument to Col. Ephraim Williams,
+killed at the battle of Lake George in 1755, erected by the graduates
+of Williams College, which he founded. Bloody Pond, a little farther
+on, sleeps calm and blue in the sunlight in spite of its tragic name
+and associations, and soon Lake George, girt-round by mountains,
+greets our vision, stretching away in beauty to the north.
+
+Near the railway station on the ninth of September, 1903, a monument
+was unveiled commemorating the battle of Lake George one hundred and
+forty-eight years before. The monument embodies the heroic figures of
+Sir William Johnson and King Hendrick the Indian chief. It represents
+the Indian chief demonstrating to General Johnson the futility of
+dividing his forces. Governor Odell of New York, Governor Guild of
+Massachusetts, Governor Chamberlain of Connecticut, and Governor
+McCulloch of Vermont and others delivered appropriate addresses.
+
+=The Trossachs of America.=--Capt. Wm. R. Lord, author of
+"Reminiscences of a Sailor," in a recent article contributed to a
+Scottish paper, has happily called Lake George and its surroundings
+"The Trossachs of America." In writing of the autumn season he says:
+"Its similarity to the Trossachs of Scotland impresses one most
+vividly as seen at this season; the mountains are clothed in a garb,
+the prevailing color of which is purple, reminding me of a previous
+visit through the Scottish Highlands when the heather was in full
+bloom. I at that time felt it to be impossible that any other place on
+the face of the globe could equal the magnificently imposing grandeur
+of the 'Trossachs.' I must, however, freely admit that in its power of
+changing beauty this region of America fully equals, if it does
+not surpass it. Deeds of 'derring-do,' enacted in these mountain
+fastnesses in days gone by, still add to make the comparison more
+close. Our path at times seemed to be literally strewn with roses,
+for the different colored leaves that carpeted our way conveyed that
+thought. The depth and variegated beauty of coloring that marks this
+season of decaying foliage, would enrapture the heart of an artist.
+In my vocation I have had occasion to visit the four quarters of the
+globe, but never have I seen tints so strikingly beautiful."
+
+       * * *
+
+    The early fragments of our Colonial poetry and Revolutionary
+    ballads are chanted in the midst of such profound
+    silence and loneliness that they sound spectrally
+    to our ears.
+
+    _Bayard Taylor._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lake George=, called by the French "Lac St. Sacrament," was
+discovered by Father Jacques, who passed through it in 1646, on his
+way to the Iroquois, by whom he was afterward tortured and burned. It
+is thirty-six miles long by three miles broad. Its elevation is
+two hundred and forty-three feet above the sea. The waters are of
+remarkable transparency; romantic islands dot its surface, and elegant
+villas line its shores. Fort William Henry and Ticonderoga, situated
+at either end of the lake, were the salients respectively of the two
+most powerful nations upon the globe. France and England sent great
+armies, which crossed each other's track upon the ocean, the one
+entering the St. Lawrence, the other the harbor of New York. Their
+respective colonies sent their thousands to swell the number of
+trained troops, while tribes of red men from the south and the north
+were marshalled by civilized genius to meet in hostile array upon
+these waters, around the walls of the forts, and at the base of the
+hills. In 1755, General Johnston reached Lake St. Sacrament, to which
+he gave the name of Lake George, "not only in honor of his Majesty,
+but to assert his undoubted dominion here."
+
+       * * *
+
+    The progress of that October month had been like
+    the stately march of an Orient army, with all the
+    splendor of blazing banners. It looked as though the glories of the
+    sunset had been distilled into it decked
+    with the glowing hues of crimson, scarlet and gold.
+
+    _John Henry Brandow._
+
+       * * *
+
+The village of Lake George is situated at the head of the lake.
+It contains two churches, a court house, and a number of pretty
+residences. Just behind the court house is the bay where Montcalm
+landed his cannon, and where his entrenchments began. It ran across
+the street to the rising ground beyond the Episcopal church.
+
+=Fort William Henry Hotel= is the largest and best appointed hotel on
+Lake George. It has a most beautiful and commanding location, and the
+view from its great piazza is one long to be remembered. The piazza is
+twenty-four feet in width and supported by a row of Corinthian columns
+thirty feet high. The outlook from it at all times is enchanting,
+commanding as it does the level reaches of the lake for miles, with
+picturesque islands and promontories.
+
+About twelve miles from the hotel is Fourteen-mile Island which, with
+a number of others, form "The Narrows." The lake here is 400 feet
+deep, much fishing is done, and in the right season hunting parties
+start out. Black Mountain, the monarch of the lake, rises over two
+thousand feet above its waters (being 2,661 feet above tide), and from
+the summit a magnificent view is obtained of Lake Champlain, the Green
+Mountains, the Adirondacks, and the distant course of the Hudson.
+
+A carriage drive to Schroon Lake and conveyance from Schroon Village
+to Adirondack resorts can be made from Lake George.
+
+Those who have only a day can make a delightful excursion from
+Saratoga to Caldwell by rail, then through the lake to Baldwin, and
+thence by rail to Saratoga, or _via_ Baldwin and up the lake to
+Caldwell, and so to Saratoga. But, to get the full beauty of this
+unrivaled lake, the trip should be made with less haste, for there is
+no more delightful place in the world to spend a week, a month, or an
+entire summer. Its immediate surroundings present much to interest
+the student of history and legend; and to lovers of the beautiful it
+acknowledges no rivals. The elevation and absolute purity of air make
+it a desirable place for the tourist. It is 346 feet above the level
+of the sea, 247 feet above Lake Champlain, and is now brought within
+six hours of New York City by the enterprise of the _Delaware & Hudson
+Co_. It is a great question, and we talk it over every time we see the
+genial Passenger Traffic Manager of this enterprising line, whether
+Lake George or Lake Luzerne, in Switzerland, is the more beautiful. We
+were just deciding last summer, on the steamer "Horicon," that Lake
+George was more beautiful, but not so wild, when, as if the spirit
+of the lake were roused, a great black squall suddenly came over the
+mountains, and, the "crystal lake" for a few minutes, was as wild as
+any one might desire. We all were glad to see her smile again as she
+did half an hour afterward in the bright sunlight.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Oh the mystical glory that crowns them
+    Reflected in river and lake,
+  Like a fire that burns through the firs and ferns
+    By the paths that the wild deer take.
+
+  _Eben E. Rexford._
+
+       * * *
+
+"At its widest point Lake George measures about four miles, but at
+other places it is less than one mile in width. It is dotted with
+islands; how many we do not know exactly--nobody does; but tradition,
+which passes among the people of the district for history and truth,
+says there is exactly one island for every day in the year, or 365 in
+all. Whatever their real number they all are beautiful, although some
+of them are barely large enough to support a flagstaff, and they all
+seem to fit into the scene so thoroughly that each one seems necessary
+to complete the charm. On either side are high hills, in some places
+rising gently from the shores, and in others beetling up from the
+surface of the water with a rugged cliff, or time-worn mass of rocks,
+which reminds one of the wild bits of rocky scenery that make up the
+savage beauty of the Isle of Skye.
+
+"Its clearness is something extraordinary. From a small boat, in many
+places, the bottom can be seen. Indeed, so mysteriously beautiful is
+the water that many visitors spend a day in a rowboat gazing into it
+at different points."
+
+       * * *
+
+  Each islet of green which the bright waters hold
+  Like emeralds fresh from their bosom rolled.
+
+  _Charles Fenno Hoffman._
+
+       * * *
+
+Charles Dudley Warner says: "Bolton, among a host of attractive spots
+on the lake, holds, in my opinion, a rank among the two or three most
+interesting points. There is no point of Lake George where the views
+are so varied or more satisfactory, excepting the one from Sabbath-day
+Point. At Bolton the islets which dot the surface of the lake whose
+waters are blue as the sea in the tropics, carry the eye to the
+rosy-tinted range which includes Pilot, Buck and Erebus Mountains,
+and culminates in the stateliness of Black Mountain. Or, looking
+northwest, the superb masses of verdure on Green Island are seen
+mirrored on the burnished surface of the lake. Behind rises the mighty
+dividing wall called Tongue Mountain, which seems to separate the lake
+in twain, for Ganouskie, or Northwest Bay, five miles long, is
+in effect a lake by itself, with its own peculiar features." The
+Champlain Transportation Company runs a regular line of steamboats
+the entire length of the lake, making three round trips daily, except
+Sunday. The "Horicon" is a fine side-wheel steamer, 203 feet long and
+52 feet wide, and will accommodate, comfortably, 1,000 people.
+
+At Fort Ti the tourist can continue his northern route _via_ the
+_Delaware & Hudson_ to Hotel Champlain, Plattsburgh, Rouse's Point, or
+Montreal, or through Lake Champlain by steamer. The ruins of Fort Ti,
+like old Fort Putnam at West Point, are picturesque, and will well
+repay a visit.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Far off the dreaming waters lie,
+    White cascades leap in snowy foam,
+  Lake Champlain mirrors cloud and sky,
+    The Hudson seeks his ocean home.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Lake George to the Adirondacks.=
+
+The reader who does not visit Lake George may feel that he is switched
+off on a side-track at Fort Edward; so, coming to his rescue, we
+return and resume our northern journey _via_ the main line, through
+Dunham's Basin, Smith's Basin, Fort Ann, and Comstock's Landing, to--
+
+=Whitehall=, at the head of Lake Champlain. From this point north the
+_Delaware & Hudson_ crosses all thresholds for the Adirondacks, and
+shortens the journey to the mountain districts. It passes through
+five mountain ranges, the most southerly, the Black Mountain range,
+terminating in Mt. Defiance, with scattering spurs coming down to
+the very shore of the lake. The second range is known as the
+Kayaderosseras, culminating in Bulwagga Mountain. The third range
+passes through the western part of Schroon, the northern part of
+Moriah and centre of Westport, ending in Split Rock Mountain. The
+fourth range, the Bouquet range, ends in high bluffs on Willsboro Bay.
+Here the famous Red-Hook Cut is located, and the longest tunnel on the
+line.
+
+The fifth range, known as the Adirondack Range, as it includes the
+most lofty of the Adirondack Mountains, viz.: McIntyre, Colden and
+Tahawas, ends in a rocky promontory known as Tremblau Point, at Port
+Kent.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Afar the misty mountains piled,
+    The Adirondacks soaring free,
+  The dark green ranges lone and wild,
+    The Catskills looking toward the sea.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+No wonder, with these mountain ranges to get through, that the subject
+was agitated year after year, and it was only when the Delaware and
+Hudson Company placed their powerful shoulder to the wheel, that the
+work began to go forward. For these mountains meant tunnels, and rock
+cuts, and bridges, and _cash_. Leaving Whitehall, we enter a tunnel
+near the old steamboat landing, cross a marsh, which must have
+suggested the beginning of the Pilgrim's Progress, for it seemed
+almost bottomless, and pass along the narrow end of the lake, still
+marked by light-houses, where steamers once struggled and panted "like
+fish out of water," fulfilling the Yankee's ambition of running a boat
+on a heavy dew. Then winding in and out along the shore, we proceed
+to--
+
+=Ticonderoga=, 23 miles from Whitehall. Here terminates the first
+range of the Adirondacks, to which we have already referred, viz.:
+Mount Defiance. Steamers connect with the train at this point on Lake
+Champlain, also with a railroad for Lake George. Near the station we
+get a view of old Port Ticonderoga, where Ethan Allen breakfasted
+early one morning, and said grace in a brief and emphatic manner. The
+lake now widens into a noble sheet of water; we cross the Lake George
+outlet, enter a deep rock-cut, which extends a distance of about 500
+feet, and reach Crown Point thirty-four miles north of Whitehall.
+Passing along the shore of Bulwagga Bay we come to--
+
+=Port Henry=, 40 miles from Whitehall. A few miles further the
+railroad leaves the lake at Mullen Brook, the first departure since
+we left Whitehall, and we are greeted with cultivated fields and a
+charming landscape.
+
+=Westport=, 51 miles from Whitehall, is the railroad station for--
+
+=Elizabethtown=, the county seat of Essex. It is about eight miles
+from the station, nestled among the mountains. A county consisting
+mostly of mountain scenery could have no happier location for a
+head-centre. Elizabethtown forms a most delightful gateway to the
+Adirondacks either by stage route or pedestrian tour.
+
+       * * *
+
+  A health to Ethan Allen and our commander Gates;
+  To Lincoln and to Washington whom every Tory hates;
+  Likewise unto our Congress, God grant it long to reign,
+  Our country's right and justice forever to maintain.
+
+  _Saratoga Revolutionary Ballad._
+
+       * * *
+
+A short distance north of Westport we enter the well-cultivated
+Bouquet Valley, and after a pleasant run come to Wellsboro Falls,
+where we enter seven miles of rock cutting. The road is about 90 feet
+above the lake, and the cuts in many places from 90 to 100 feet high.
+After leaving Red-Rock cut, we pass through a tunnel 600 feet long.
+Crossing Higby's Gorge and rounding Tremblau Mountain, we reach--
+
+=Port Kent=, the connecting point for the progressive village of
+Keeseville.
+
+=Ausable Chasm=, is only three miles from the station of Port Kent. It
+is many years since we visited the Chasm, but its pictures are still
+stamped upon our mind clearly and definitely--the ledge at Birmingham
+Falls, the Flume, the Devil's Pulpit, and the boat ride on the swift
+current. Indeed, the entire rock-rift, almost two miles in length,
+left an impression never to be effaced. The one thing especially
+peculiar, on account of the trend of the rock-layers was the illusion
+that we were floating up stream, and that the river compressed in
+these narrow limits, had "got tired" of finding its way out, until it
+thought that the easiest way was to run up hill and get out at the
+top.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Hear what the gray-haired woodmen tell
+  Of this wild stream and its rocky dell.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Bluff Point.=--On a commanding site 200 feet above the lake some
+three miles south of Plattsburgh, stands the superb "Hotel Champlain"
+commanding a view far-reaching and magnificent, from the Green
+Mountains on the east to the Adirondacks on the west. The hotel
+grounds comprise the same number of acres as the islands of Lake
+George, 365. The hotel is 400 feet long. We condense the following
+description from the "Delaware and Hudson Guide-book," which we can
+heartily endorse from many personal visits:
+
+"Resolute has been the struggle here with nature, where rocks, tangled
+forest and matted roots crowned the chosen spot; but upon the broad,
+smooth plateau finally created the Hotel Champlain has been placed,
+and all the surrounding forest, its solitudes still untamed, has been
+converted into a superb park, threaded with drives and bridle paths.
+At the foot of the gradual western slope of the ridge the handsome
+station of Bluff Point has been located beside the main line of the
+_Delaware & Hudson Railroad_, the chief highway of pleasure and
+commercial travel between New York, Saratoga, Lake George, the
+Adirondacks and Canada.
+
+"From the station where the coaches of the hotel await expected
+guests, a winding pike, the very perfection of a road, leads up the
+hill. From the carriage, as it rises to the crest, a wondrous outlook
+to the westward is opened to view. Nearly a thousand square miles of
+valley, lake and mountain are within range of the eye or included in
+the area encircled by visible peaks. As the porch of the hotel
+is reached, the view, enhanced by the fine foreground, is indeed
+beautiful, but still finer is the grandeur of the scene from the
+arches of the tall central dome of the house.
+
+"To the southward we see Whiteface, showing, late in spring and early
+in autumn, its coronet of almost perpetual snow; and in a grand circle
+still more southward we see in succession McIntyre, Marcy (both over
+5,000 feet high), Haystack, Dix, the Gothic peaks, Hurricane and the
+Giant. This noble sisterhood of mountains rises from the very heart of
+the wilderness, and yet the guests at the Hotel Champlain may reach
+any portion of their environment within a few hours."
+
+The fine equipment and frequent train service of the _Delaware &
+Hudson_ between New York and Bluff Point without change, by daylight
+or at night, and the direct connection of the same line with the
+Hudson River steamboats, places this resort high upon the list of
+available summering points in the dry and healthful north for families
+from the metropolis. Travel from the west, coming down the St.
+Lawrence River, or through Canada _via_ Montreal, will find Bluff
+Point easy to reach; while from the White Mountains and New England
+seashore resorts it is accessible by through trains _via_ St. Albans
+or Burlington.
+
+The western shore of Lake Champlain forms the margin of the most
+varied and altogether delightful wilderness to be found anywhere upon
+this continent east of the Rocky Mountains. The serried peaks to the
+westward are in plain view from its shores, their foot-hills ending
+in lofty and often abrupt ridges where they meet the lake. Three
+impetuous rivers, the Saranac, the Salmon and the Ausable, flow down
+from the cool, clear lakes, hidden away in the wildwood, and, breaking
+through this barrier at and in the vicinity of Plattsburgh, contribute
+not only to the lucid waters of Lake Champlain but greatly to the
+picturesque variety of the region.
+
+       * * *
+
+  There lie broad acres laced with rills
+    And gemmed with lake and pond
+  Behind a wave of wooded hills
+    And mountain peaks beyond.
+
+  _Benjamin F. Leggett._
+
+       * * *
+
+=Plattsburgh=, 168 miles from Albany, at the mouth of the Saranac, is
+a delightful threshold to the Adirondacks. The northern part of Lake
+Champlain offers special attractions to camping parties. The shores
+and islands abound in excellent sites. Lake Champlain is also replete
+with interest to the historian. The ruins of Fort St. Anne are still
+seen on the north end of the Isle La Mott, built by the French in
+1660. Valcour Strait, where one of the battles of '76 was fought;
+Valcour's Island, where lovers came from far and near, built air
+castles, wandered through these shady groves for a season or two, and
+then vanished from sight, bankrupt in everything but mutual affection;
+Cumberland Bay, with its victory, September, 1814, when the British
+were driven back to Canada; and many other points which can be visited
+by steamer or yacht.
+
+It is thirty years since I made my first trip to the Saranacs and I
+remember well the long journey of those early days, but now we can
+step aboard a well equipped train at Plattsburgh and in five or six
+hours stand by the bright waters of the Lower Saranac, which might
+to-day be called the centre and starting point for all resorts and
+camping grounds in the eastern lake district of the Adirondacks.
+Floating about the Saranac Islands of a summer evening, roaming among
+forest trees, strolling over to the little village one mile distant,
+and absorbing the rich exhilaration of a life of untrammeled freedom,
+with a perfect hotel, and blazing fire-places if the weather happens
+to be unpleasant, form a grand combination, alike for tourists or
+seekers after rest.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Where rosy zephyr lingers
+    All the livelong day,
+  With health upon his pinions
+    And gladness on his way.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+SOURCE OF THE HUDSON.
+
+
+In our journey from Albany to Plattsburgh, we have indicated various
+routes to the Adirondacks: By way of Saratoga and North Creek to Blue
+Mountain Lake following the course of the Hudson which might therefor
+be called "The Hudson Gateway;" _via_ Lake George, Westport, and
+Elizabethtown, suited for carriage and pedestrian trips, and _via_
+Plattsburgh, which might be termed "The Northern Portal." In addition
+to these it has been my lot to make several trips up the valley of the
+Sacandaga to Lake Pleasant and Indian Lake, and _via_ Schroon Lake
+to Sanford and Lake Henderson--and four times to ascend the mountain
+trail of Tahawas to the tiny rills and fountains of the Hudson, but
+one trip abides in memory distinct and unrivalled, which may be of
+service to those who wish to visit in fact or fancy the head waters of
+the Hudson.
+
+=The Tahawas Club.=--We took the cars one bright August morning from
+Plattsburgh to Ausable Forks, a distance of twenty miles, hired a team
+to Beede's, some thirty miles distant from the "Forks;" took dinner at
+Keene, and pursued our route up the beautiful valley of the Ausable.
+
+From this point we visited Roaring-Brook Falls, some four hundred feet
+high, a very beautiful waterfall in the evening twilight. The next
+morning we started, bright and early, for the Ausable Ponds. Four
+miles brought us to the Lower Ausable. The historic guide, "old
+Phelps," rowed us across the lower lake, pointing out, from our slowly
+moving and heavily laden scow, "Indian Head" on the left, and the
+"Devil's Pulpit" on the right, lifted about eight hundred feet above
+the level of the lake. "Phelps" remarked with quaint humor, that
+he was frequently likened to his Satanic Majesty, as he often took
+clergymen "up thar." The rocky walls of this lake rise from one
+thousand to fifteen hundred feet high, in many places almost
+perpendicular. A large eagle soared above the cliffs, and circled in
+the air above us, which we took as a good omen of our journey.
+
+       * * *
+
+                    The rills
+  That feed thee rise among the storied rocks
+  Where Freedom built her battle-tower.
+
+  _William Wallace._
+
+       * * *
+
+After reaching the southern portion of the lake, a trail of a mile and
+a quarter leads to the Upper Ausable--the gem of the Adirondacks. This
+lake, over two thousand feet above the tide, is surrounded on all
+sides by lofty mountains. Our camp was on the eastern shore, and I can
+never forget the sunset view, as rosy tints lit up old Skylight, the
+Haystack and the Gothics; nor can I ever forget the evening songs from
+a camp-fire across the lake, or the "bear story" told by Phelps, a
+tale never really finished, but made classic and immortal by Stoddard,
+in his spicy and reliable handbook to the North Woods.
+
+The next morning we rowed across the lake and took the Bartlett trail,
+ascending Haystack, some five thousand feet high, just to get an
+appetite for dinner; our guide encouraging us on the way by saying
+that there never had been more than twenty people before "on that air
+peak." In fact, there was no trail, and in some places it was so steep
+that we were compelled to go up on all fours; or as Scott puts it more
+elegantly in the "Lady of the Lake":
+
+              "The foot was fain
+  Assistance from the hand to gain."
+
+The view from the summit well repaid the toil. We saw Slide Mountain,
+near by to the north, and Whiteface far beyond, perhaps twenty-five
+miles distant; northeast, the Gothics; east, Saw-teeth, Mt. Colvin,
+Mt. Dix, and the lakes of the Ausable. To the southeast, Skylight;
+northwest, Tahawas, still foolishly styled on some of our maps,
+Mt. Marcy. The descent of Haystack was as easy as Virgil's famous
+"Descensus Averni." We went down in just twenty minutes. The one
+that reached the bottom first simply possessed better adaptation for
+rolling.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Eagles still claim the loftiest heights: from there
+    They scan with solemn eyes the scenes below--
+  The river and the hills which shall endure
+    While man's frail generations come and go.
+
+  _E. A. Lente._
+
+       * * *
+
+One mile from the foot of Haystack brought us to Panther Gorge Camp,
+appropriately named, one of the wildest spots in the Adirondacks. We
+remained there that night and slept soundly, although a dozen of us
+were packed so closely in one small camp that no individual could turn
+over without disarranging the whole mass. Caliban and Trinculo were
+not more neighborly, and Sebastian, even sober, would have been fully
+justified in taking us for "a rare monster" with twenty legs.
+
+The next morning we ascended Tahawas, but saw nothing save whirling
+clouds on its summit. Twice since then we have had better fortune, and
+looked down from this mountain peak, five thousand three hundred and
+forty-four feet above the sea, upon the loveliest mountain landscape
+that the sun ever shone upon. We went down the western slope of
+Tahawas, through a driving rain, to Camp Colden, where, with clothes
+hung up to dry, we looked like a party of New Zealanders preparing
+dinner, hungry enough, too, to make an orthodox meal of each other.
+The next day the weather cleared up, and we made a trip of two miles
+over a rough mountain trail to Lake Avalanche, whose rocky and
+precipitous walls form a fit christening bowl, or baptistery-font for
+the infant Hudson.
+
+Returning to Camp Colden and resuming our western march, two miles
+brought us to Calamity Pond, where a lone monument marks the spot of
+David Henderson's death, by the accidental discharge of a pistol. Five
+miles from this point brought us to the "Deserted Village," or the
+Upper Adirondack Iron Works, with houses and furnaces abandoned,
+and rapidly falling into decay. Here we found a cheery fireside and
+cordial welcome.
+
+       * * *
+
+  All the sad story of forest and flower,
+  All the red glory of sunsetting hour,
+  Comes till I seem to lie lapped in bright dreams
+  Lulled by the lullaby murmur of streams.
+
+  _James Kennedy._
+
+       * * *
+
+Had I time to picture this level, grass-grown street, with ten or
+fifteen square box-looking houses, windowless, empty and desolate; a
+school-house with its long vacation of twenty-three years; a bank with
+heavy shutters and ponderous locks, whose floor, Time, the universal
+burglar, had undermined; two large furnaces with great rusty wheels,
+whose occupation was gone forever; a thousand tons of charcoal,
+untouched for a quarter of a century; thousands of bricks waiting for a
+builder; a real haunted house, whose flapping clap-boards contain
+more spirits than the Black Forests of Germany--a village so utterly
+desolate, that it has not even the vestige of a graveyard--if I could
+picture to you this village, as it appeared to me that weird midnight,
+lying so quiet,
+
+  "under the light of the solemn moon,"
+
+you would realize as I did then, that truth is indeed stranger than
+fiction, and that Goldsmith in _his_ "Deserted Village" had not
+overdrawn the description of desolate Auburn.
+
+By special request, we were permitted to sleep that night in the
+Haunted House and no doubt listened to the first crackling that the
+old fire-place had known for years. Many bedsteads in the old building
+were still standing, so we only needed bedding from the hotel to
+make us comfortable. As we went to sleep we expressed a wish to be
+interviewed in the still hours of the night by any ghosts or spirits
+who might happen to like our company; but the spirits must have been
+absent on a visit that evening, for we slept undisturbed until the old
+bell, suspended in a tree, rang out the cheery notes of "trout and
+pickerel." We understand that the Haunted House from that night
+lost its old-time reputation, and is now frequently brought into
+requisition as an "Annex," whenever the hotel or "Club House," as it
+is now called, happens to be full. The "Deserted Village" is rich in
+natural beauty. Lakes Henderson and Sanford are near at hand, and the
+lovely Preston Ponds are only five miles distant.
+
+       * * *
+
+    Stately and awful was the form of Tahawas, the old
+    scarred warrior king of the mountains, and yet it owns
+    pines that sing like the sea, brooks that warble like the
+    robin, and flowers that scent the air like the orange-blossoms
+    of Italy.
+
+    _Alfred B. Street._
+
+       * * *
+
+Resuming our march through Indian Pass, under old Wall-Face Mountain,
+we reached a comfortable farmhouse at sunset, near North Elba, known
+by the name of Scott's. The next morning we visited John Brown's house
+and grave by the old rock, and read the beautiful inscription, "Bury
+me by the Old Rock, where I used to sit and read the word of God."
+
+From this point we went to Lake Placid, engaged a lad to row us across
+the lake--some of our party had gone on before--and strapped our
+knapsacks for another mountain climb. We were fortunate in having a
+lovely day, and from its sparkling glacier-worn summit we could look
+back on all the mountains of our pleasant journey, and far away across
+Lake Champlain to Mount Mansfield and Camel's Hump of the Green
+Mountains, and farther still to the faint outlines of Mount
+Washington. We reached Wilmington that night, drove the next morning
+to Ausable Forks, and took the cars for Plattsburgh. The ten days'
+trip was finished, and at this late hour I heartily thank the Tahawas
+Club of Plattsburgh for taking me under their generous care and
+guidance. We took Phelps, our guide, back with us to Plattsburgh. When
+he reached the "Forks," and saw the cars for the first time in his
+life, he stooped down and, examining the track, said, "What tarnal
+little wheels." I suppose he concluded that if the ordinary cart had
+two large wheels, that real car wheels would resemble the Rings of
+Saturn. He saw much to amuse and interest him during his short stay
+in Plattsburgh, but after all he thought it was rather lonesome, and
+gladly returned to his lakes and mountains, where he slept in peace,
+with the occasional intrusion of a "Bar" or a "Painter." He knew the
+region about Tahawas as an engineer knows his engine, or as a Greek
+professor knows the pages of his lexicon. He had lived so closely with
+nature that he seemed to understand her gentlest whispers, and he had
+more genuine poetry in his soul than many a man who chains weak ideas
+in tangled metre.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Lake Avalanche with rocky wall
+    And Henderson's dark-wooded shore,
+  Your echoes linger still and call
+    Unto my soul forevermore.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN HEAD.]
+
+Since that first delightful trip I have visited the Adirondacks many
+times, and I hope this summer to repeat the excursion. To me Tahawas
+is the grand centre. It remains unchanged. In fact, the route I have
+here traced is the same to-day as then. Even the rude camps are
+located in the same places, with the exception that the trail has been
+shortened over Tahawas, and a camp established on Skylight. With good
+guides the route is not difficult for ladies in good health,--say
+sufficient health to endure half a day's shopping. Persons
+contemplating the mountain trip need blankets, a knapsack, and a
+rubber cloth or overcoat; food can be procured at the hotels or farm
+houses.
+
+       * * *
+
+    The old English ballads have all the sparkle, the
+    energy and the rhythm of our mountain streams, but
+    Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare and Bunyan are the
+    crystal lakes from which flow the river, ay, the Hudson
+    of our language.
+
+    _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+In this hasty sketch I have had little space to indulge in
+picture-painting. I passed Bridal-Veil Fall without a reference. I
+was tempted to loiter on the banks of the Feld-spar and the bright
+Opalescent, but I passed by without even picking a pebble from the
+clear basins of its sparkling cascades. I passed the "tear of the
+clouds," four thousand feet above the tide--that fountain of the
+Hudson nearest to the sky, without being beguiled into poetry. I have
+not ventured upon a description of a sunrise view from the summit of
+Tahawas, of the magic effect of light above clouds that clothe the
+surrounding peaks in garments wrought, it seems, of softest wool,
+until mist and vapor dissolve in roseate colors, and the landscape
+lies before us like an open book, which many glad eyes have looked
+upon again and again. I have left it for your guides to tell you, by
+roaring camp-fires, long stories of adventure in trapping and hunting,
+of wondrous fishes that grow longer and heavier every season, although
+captured and broiled many and many a year ago--trout and pickerel
+literally pickled in fiction, served and re-served in the piquant
+sauce of mountain vocabulary. In brief, I have kept my imagination and
+enthusiasm under strict control. But, after all, the Adirondacks are
+a wonderland, and we, who dwell in the Hudson and Mohawk valleys, are
+happy in having this great park of Nature's making at our very doors.
+
+It has charms alike for the hunter, the angler, the artist, the
+writer, and the scientist. Let us rejoice, therefore, that the State
+of New York is waking at last to the fact, that these northern
+mountains were intended by nature to be something more than lumber
+ranches, to be despoiled by the axe, and finally revert to the State
+for "taxes" in the shape of bare and desolate wastes. Nor can the most
+practical legislator charge those, who wish to preserve the Adirondack
+woods, with idle sentiment; as it is now an established scientific
+fact that the rainfall of a country is largely dependent upon its
+forest land. If the water supply of the north were cut off, to any
+perceptible degree, the Hudson, during the months of July and August,
+would be a mere sluice of salt water from New York to Albany; and the
+northern canals, dependent on this supply, would become empty and
+useless ditches. Our age is intensely practical, but we are fortunate
+in this, that so far as the preservation of the Adirondacks is
+concerned, utility, common sense, and the appreciation of the
+beautiful are inseparably blended.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Wild umbrage far around me clings
+    To breezy knoll and hushed ravine,
+  And o'er each rocky headland flings
+    Its mantle of refreshing green.
+
+  _Henry T. Tuckerman_.
+
+       * * *
+
+To those persons who do not desire long mountain jaunts, who simply
+need some quiet place for rest and recuperation, I would suggest this:
+Select some place near the base of these clustered mountains, like the
+tasty Adirondack Lodge at Clear Pond, only seven miles from the summit
+of Tahawas, or Beede's pleasant hotel, high and dry above Keene Flats,
+near to the Ausable Ponds, or some pleasant hotel or quiet farm-house
+in the more open country near Lake Placid and the Saranacs. But
+I prophesy that the spirit of adventure will come with increased
+strength, and men and women alike will be found wandering off on
+long excursions, sitting about great camp-fires, ay, listening like
+children to tales which have not gathered truth with age. If you have
+control of your time you will find no pleasanter months than July,
+August and September, and when you return to your firesides with
+new vigor to fight the battle of life, you will feel, I think, like
+thanking the writer for having advised you to go thither.
+
+       * * *
+
+    To shut up a glen or a waterfall for one man's exclusive
+    enjoying; to fence out a genial eye from any
+    corner of the earth which nature has lovingly touched;
+    to lock up trees and glades shady paths and haunts
+    along rivulets, would be an embezzlement by one man
+    of God's gifts to all.
+
+    _N. P. Willis._
+
+       * * *
+
+I have written in this article the Indian name, Tahawas, in the place
+of Mt. Marcy, and for this reason: There is no justice in robbing the
+Indian of his keen, poetic appreciation, by changing a name, which
+has in itself a definite meaning, for one that means nothing in its
+association with this mountain. We have stolen enough from this
+unfortunate race, to leave, at least, those names in our woodland
+vocabulary that chance to have a musical sound to our imported Saxon
+ears. The name Tahawas is not only beautiful in itself, but also
+poetic in its interpretation--signifying "I cleave the clouds."
+Coleridge, in his glorious hymn, "Before sunrise in the vale of
+Chamouni," addresses Mount Blanc:
+
+          "Around thee and above
+  Deep is the air and dark, substantial, black--
+  An ebon mass. Methinks thou piercest it.
+  _As with a wedge!_"
+
+The name or meaning of Tahawas was never made known to the great
+English poet, who died sixty years ago. Is it not remarkable that
+the untutored Indian, and the keenist poetic mind which England has
+produced for a century, should have the same idea in the uplifted
+mountains? There is also another reason why we, as a State, should
+cherish the name Tahawas. While the Sierra Nevadas and the Alps
+slumbered beneath the waves of the ocean, before the Himalayas or the
+Andes had asserted their supremacy, scientists say, that the high
+peaks of the Adirondacks stood alone above the waves, "the cradle of
+the world's life;" and, as the clouds then encircled the vast waste
+of water, Tahawas then rose--"Cleaver" alike of the waters and the
+clouds.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Tahawas, rising stern and grand,
+    "Cloud-sunderer" lift thy forehead high,
+  Guard well thy sun-kissed mountain land
+    Whose lakes seem borrowed from the sky.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+GEOLOGY OF THE HUDSON.
+
+
+In addition to various geological references scattered through these
+pages the following facts from an American Geological Railway Guide,
+by James Macfarlane, Ph.D., will be of interest.
+
+"The State of New York is to the geologist what the Holy Land is
+to the Christian, and the works of her Palaeontologist are the Old
+Testament Scriptures of the science. It is a Laurentian, Cambrian,
+Silurian and Devonian State, containing all the groups and all the
+formations of these long ages, beautifully developed in belts
+running nearly across the State in an east and west direction, lying
+undisturbed as originally laid down.
+
+"The rock of New York Island is gneiss, except a portion of the north
+end, which is limestone. The south portion is covered with deep
+alluvial deposits, which in some places are more than 100 feet in
+depth. The natural outcroppings of the gneiss appeared on the surface
+about 16th Street, on the east side of the city, and run diagonally
+across to 31st Street on 10th Avenue. North of this, much of the
+surface was naked rock. It contains a large proportion of mica, a
+small proportion of quartz and still less feldspar, but generally an
+abundance of iron pyrites in very minute crystals, which, on
+exposure, are decomposed. In consequence of these ingredients it soon
+disintegrates on exposure, rendering it unfit for the purposes
+of building. The erection of a great city, for which this island
+furnishes a noble site, has very greatly changed its natural
+condition. The geological age of the New York gneiss is undoubtedly
+very old, not the Laurentian or oldest, nor the Huronian, but it
+belongs to the third or White Mountain series, named by Dr. Hunt the
+Montalban. It is the same range which is the basis rock of nearly all
+the great cities of the Atlantic coast. It crosses New Jersey where it
+is turned to clay, until it appears under Trenton, and it extends to
+Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington and Richmond, Va., and probably
+Boston, Massachusetts, is founded on this same formation.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Oh, river! darkling river! what a voice
+  Is that thou utterest while all else is still!
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant_.
+
+       * * *
+
+"On the opposite side of the river may here be seen for many miles the
+Palisades, a long, rough mountain ridge close to the water's edge. Its
+upper half is a perpendicular precipice of bare rock of a columnar
+structure from 100 to 200 feet in height, the whole height of the
+mountain being generally from 400 to 600 feet, and the highest point
+in the range opposite Sing Sing 800 feet above the Hudson, and known
+as the High Torn. The width of the mountain is from a half mile to a
+mile and a half, the western slope being quite gentle. In length it
+extends from Bergen Point below Jersey City to Haverstraw, and then
+westward in all 48 miles, the middle portion being merely a low ridge.
+The lower half of the ridge on the river side is a sloping mound of
+detritus, of loose stones which has accumulated at the base of the
+cliff, from its weathered and wasted surface.
+
+"Viewed from the railroad or from a steamboat on the river, this lofty
+mural precipice with its huge weathered masses of upright columns of
+bare rock, presenting a long, straight unbroken ridge overlooking the
+beautiful Hudson River, is certainly extremely picturesque. Thousands
+of travelers gaze at it daily without knowing what it is. This entire
+ridge consists of no other rock than trap traversing the Triassic
+formation in a huge vertical dike. The red sandstone formation of New
+Jersey is intersected by numerous dikes of this kind, but this is much
+the finest. The materials of this mountain have undoubtedly burst
+through a great rent or fissure in the strata, overflowing while in a
+melted or plastic condition the red sand-stone, not with the violence
+of a volcano, for the adjoining strata are but little disturbed in
+position, although often greatly altered by the heat, but forced up
+very slowly and gradually, and probably under pressure. Subsequent
+denudation has laid bare the part of the mountain now exposed along
+the river. The rock is columnar basalt, sometimes called greenstone,
+and is solid, not stratified like water-formed rocks, but cracked in
+cooling and of a crystalline structure. Here is a remarkable but not
+uncommon instance of a great geological blank. On the east side of
+this river the formations belong to the first or oldest series of
+Primary or Crystalline rocks, while on the west side they are
+all Triassic, the intermediate Cambrian, Silurian, Devonian and
+Carboniferous formations being wanting. This state of things continues
+all along the Atlantic coast to Georgia, the Cretaceous or Jurassic
+taking the place of the Triassic farther south.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Like thine, O, be my course--nor turned aside,
+  While listening to the soundings of a land,
+  That like the ocean call invites me to its strand.
+
+  _Mrs. Seba Smith._
+
+       * * *
+
+"Montrose to Cornwall. This celebrated passage of the Hudson through
+the Highlands, is a gorge nearly 20 miles long from 3 miles south of
+Peekskill to Fishkill, and is worn out of the Laurentian rocks far
+below mean tide water. The hills on its sides rise in some instances
+as much as 1,800 feet, and in many places the walls are very
+precipitous. The rock is gneiss, of a kind that is not easily
+disintegrated or eroded, nor is there any evidence of any convulsive
+movement. It is clearly a case of erosion, but not by the present
+river, which has no fall, for tide water extends 100 miles up the
+river beyond the Highlands. This therefore was probably a work mainly
+performed in some past period when the continent was at a higher
+level. Most likely it is a valley of great antiquity.
+
+"Opposite Fishkill is Newburgh, which is in the great valley of Lower
+Silurian or Cambrian limestone and slate. North of that, on the west
+side of the river, the formations occur in their usual order, their
+outcrops running northeast and southwest. On the _N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R._,
+on the east side, the same valley crosses, and the slates from
+Fishkill to Rhinebeck are about the same place in the series;
+but being destitute of fossils and very much faulted, tilted and
+disturbed, their precise geology is uncertain. See the exposures in
+the cuts at Poughkeepsie. The high ground to the east is commonly
+called the Quebec group.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Amid thy forest solitudes one climbs
+    O'er crags, that proudly tower above the deep,
+  Along the verge of the cliff, and he can hear
+  The low dash of the wave with startled ear.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+"A series of great dislocations with upthrows on the east side
+traverse eastern North America from Canada to Alabama. One of these
+great faults has been traced from near the mouth of the St. Lawrence
+River, keeping mostly under the water up to Quebec just north of the
+fortress, thence by a gently curving line to Lake Champlain or through
+western Vermont across Washington County, N. Y., to near Albany. It
+crosses the river near Rhinebeck 15 miles north of Poughkeepsie and
+continues on southward into New Jersey and runs into another series of
+faults probably of a later date, which extends as far as Alabama. It
+brings up the rocks of the so called Quebec group on the east side of
+the fracture to the level of the Hudson River and Trenton.
+
+"Catskill Mountains. For many miles on this railroad are beautiful
+views of the Catskill Mountains, 3,800 feet high, several miles
+distant on the opposite or west side of the river, and which furnish
+the name for the Catskill formation. The wide valley between them
+and the river is composed of Chemung, Hamilton, Lower Helderberg and
+Hudson River. The geology on the east or railroad side is entirely
+different.
+
+"Albany. The clay beds at Albany are more than 100 feet thick, and
+between that city and Schenectady they are underlaid by a bed of
+sand that is in some places more than 50 feet thick. There is an
+old glacial clay and boulder drift below the gravel at Albany, but
+Professor Hall says it is not the estuary stratified clay."
+
+       * * *
+
+    There has that little stream of water been playing among the hills
+    since He made the world, and none know how often the hand of God
+    is seen in a wilderness but them that rove it for a man's life.
+
+    _James Fenimore Cooper._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+THE HUDSON TIDE.
+
+(_Condensed from article by permission of writer._)
+
+The tide in the Hudson River is the continuation of the tide-wave,
+which comes up from the ocean through New York Bay, and is carried
+by its own momentum one hundred and sixty miles, growing, of course,
+constantly smaller, until it is finally stopped by the dam at Troy.
+The crest of this wave, or top high water, is ten hours going from New
+York to Troy. A steamer employing the same time (ten hours) for the
+journey, and starting at high water in New York, would carry a flood
+tide and highest water all the way, and have an up-river current of
+about three miles an hour helping her. On the other hand, the same
+steamer starting six hours later, or at low tide, would have dead low
+water and an ebb tide current of about three miles against her the
+entire way. The average rise and fall of the tides in New York is five
+and one-half feet, and in Troy, about two feet.
+
+Flood tide may carry salt water, under the most favorable
+circumstances, so that it can be detected at Poughkeepsie; ordinarily
+the water is fresh at Newburgh.
+
+To those who have not studied the tides the following will also be of
+interest.
+
+The tides are the semi-diurnal oscillations of the ocean, caused by
+the attraction of the moon and sun.
+
+The influence of the moon's attraction is the preponderating one in
+the tide rising force, while that of the sun is about two-fifths as
+much as that of the moon. The tides therefore follow the motion of the
+moon, and the average interval between the times of high water is the
+half length of the lunar day, or about twelve hours and twenty-five
+minutes.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Nor lives there one whose boyhood's days
+  Of happiness were passed beneath that sun,
+  That in his manhood-prime can calmly gaze
+  Upon that Bay, or on that mountain stand,
+  Nor feel the prouder of his native land.
+
+  _Fitz-Greene Halleck._
+
+       * * *
+
+
+
+
+CONDENSED POINTS.
+
+_As Seen on the Hudson River Day Line Steamers._
+
+_Desbrosses Street Pier._ On leaving landing a charming view is
+obtained of New York Harbor with Bartholdi Statue to the south.
+
+_Stevens Castle._ Above Jersey City docks on the west, crowning a
+commanding site.
+
+_St. Michael's Monastery_, or Monastery of the Passionist Fathers, on
+west bank above Elysian Fields; distinguished by large dome and towers
+of the St. Paul (London) style of architecture. This dome is 300 feet
+high, and its summit is 515 feet above the Hudson.
+
+_42d Street Pier._ Midway to the dwellers of Greater New York and
+convenient to all Elevated, Subway and Trolley Lines.
+
+_Weehawken_, on the west bank, about opposite 50th Street. Near the
+river bank was the scene of the Hamilton and Burr duel, 1804.
+
+_Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument_, 89th Street, New York. Dedicated
+May 30, 1902. Corner stone laid in 1900 by President Roosevelt when
+Governor.
+
+_Columbia University._ Stately buildings on east bank.
+
+_St. Luke's Hospital._ Beautiful dome in the distance southeast of
+college.
+
+_The Cathedral of St. John the Divine_, now in construction, will be
+one of the finest structures in the world.
+
+_General Grant's Tomb_ at Riverside Drive and 123d Street.
+
+_129th Street Pier._ Above this landing is the Steel Viaduct of the
+Boulevard Drive.
+
+       * * *
+
+  The land that from the rule of kings
+    In freeing us itself made free,
+  Our old world sister to us brings
+    Her sculptured dream of liberty.
+
+  _John G. Whittier._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Carmansville_ (where Audubon, the ornithologist lived), a city suburb
+at 152d Street.
+
+_Trinity Cemetery_, 152d Street, and above this Audubon Park.
+
+_Old Fort Washington_ once crowned the hills on the east bank. Fort
+Lee was almost opposite on the southern point of the Palisades.
+
+_Stewart Castle_, east bank, formerly owned by A. T. Stewart.
+
+_University of City of New York_ with dome, in distance.
+
+_Inwood._ Station on the Hudson River Railroad, above the heights.
+Place once known as Tubbie Hook.
+
+_Palisades_, on west bank, extend fifteen miles from Fort Lee to
+Piermont, a sheer wall of trap rock from 300 to 500 feet high.
+
+_Spuyten Duyvil_, on east bank northern boundary of Manhattan Island.
+
+_Site of Fort Independence_, east bank, on height north of Spuyten
+Duyvil.
+
+_Riverdale Station._ Station on the Hudson River Railroad above
+Spuyten Duyvil. Yonkers rising on the green slope to the north; and
+the Palisades blending in the far distance with green headlands of the
+Ramapo Range.
+
+_Convent of Mount St. Vincent._ The gray, castle-like structure in
+front, was once the home of Edwin Forrest.
+
+_Yonkers_, seventeen miles from Battery.
+
+_Greystone_, on east bank, crowning hill, about one and a half miles
+north of Yonkers. Once property of Samuel J. Tilden.
+
+_Hastings_, pleasant village on east bank.
+
+_Indian Head_ (510 feet), opposite Hastings, highest point of
+Palisades.
+
+_Dobb's Ferry_, on east bank, named after an old Swedish ferryman.
+
+_Cottinet Place_, on east bank, built of stone brought from France.
+Easily distinguished by light shade through trees.
+
+_George L. Schuyler's Residence_, near east bank. The late Col. James
+A. Hamilton's house almost east of Mr. Schuyler's. Stiner's place
+distinguished by its large dome.
+
+       * * *
+
+  From this brow of rock
+  That overlooks the Hudson's western marge,
+  I gaze upon the long array of groves,
+  The piles and gulfs of verdure drinking in the grateful heat.
+
+  _William Cullen Bryant._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Ardsley_, on east bank, just above Dobb's Ferry.
+
+_Ardsley Club_ and Golf Links.
+
+_Irvington_, 24 miles from New York, named after Washington Irving.
+
+_Piermont_, on west bank, with pier almost one mile in length
+extending into river.
+
+_Sunnyside_, home of Washington Irving, east bank, one-half mile north
+of Irvington Station, close to river bank and scarcely seen through
+the trees.
+
+_Helen M. Gould's Residence_, east bank, prominent Abbey-like
+structure, known as "Lyndehurst."
+
+_Tarrytown_, east bank, 26 miles from New York.
+
+_Nyack_, west bank, opposite Tarrytown.
+
+_J. D. Rockefeller's New Home_ on Kykuit or Kake-out Mt. back of
+Tarrytown.
+
+_Tappan Zee_, reaching from Dobb's Ferry to Croton Point, is about
+three miles wide at Tarrytown.
+
+_Sleepy Hollow_, east bank, north of Tarrytown; burial place of
+Washington Irving. The tall shaft visible from steamer, erected by the
+Delavan family, is near his grave.
+
+_Kingsland Point_, east bank, above lighthouse.
+
+_Rockwood_, home of William Rockefeller. One of the most imposing
+residences on the river.
+
+_Mrs. Elliot F. Shepard's Residence_, on east bank.
+
+_Ramapo Mountains_, on west side above Nyack, known as "Point No
+Point."
+
+_Ossining_, on east bank, six miles north of Tarrytown. Prison
+buildings are near the river below the village.
+
+_Rockland Lake_, opposite Sing Sing, between two hills; source of the
+Hackensack River.
+
+_Croton River_, on east bank, meets the Hudson one mile above Sing
+Sing; crossed by drawbridge of the Hudson River Railroad.
+
+_Teller's Point._ That part of Croton Point which juts into the Hudson.
+This point separates Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay.
+
+       * * *
+
+  O Tappan Zee! with peaceful hills,
+    And slumbrous sky and drowsy air,
+  Thy calm and restful spirit stills
+    The heart weighed down with weary care.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce_.
+
+       * * *
+
+_Haverstraw Bay_, widest part of the river; over four miles in width.
+
+_West Shore R. R. Tunnel_ under mountain.
+
+_West Shore Railroad_, west bank, meets the Hudson south of
+Haverstraw.
+
+_Haverstraw_, on west bank, with two miles of brickyards.
+
+_Treason Hill_, where Arnold and Andre met at the house of Joshua Hett
+Smith, northwest of Haverstraw.
+
+_Stony Point_, west bank. Lighthouse built on site and from the
+material of old fort captured from British by Anthony Wayne in 1778.
+
+_Verplank's Point_, on east shore, full of brickyards. It was here
+Baron Steuben drilled the soldiers of '76.
+
+_Tompkin's Cove_, on west bank. Lime kilns and quarries.
+
+_Peekskill_, east bank, pleasantly located on Peekskill Bay.
+
+_New York State Encampment_, on bluff north of Peekskill Creek.
+
+_Kidd's Point_, on west bank, where steamer enters Highlands almost at
+a right angle.
+
+_Dunderberg Mountain_, west bank, forming with Manito Mountain on the
+east southern portal of Highlands.
+
+_Iona Island_, former pleasure resort for excursions, now converted to
+Government use.
+
+_The Race._ The river channel is so termed by navigators, between Iona
+Island and the east bank.
+
+_Anthony's Nose_, east bank, with railroad tunnel.
+
+_Montgomery Creek_, on west side, empties into the Hudson about
+opposite the point of Anthony's Nose. _Fort Clinton_ was on the south
+side of this creek, and _Fort Montgomery_ on the north side.
+
+_J. Pierpont Morgan's Residence_, on west bank.
+
+_Sugar-Loaf_, east bank, resembling an old "sugar-loaf" to one looking
+north from Anthony's Nose.
+
+       * * *
+
+  From Stony Point to Bemis Height,
+    From Saratoga to the sea,
+  We trace the lines, now dark, now bright,
+    From seventy-six to eighty-three.
+
+  _Wallace Bruce._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Beverley Dock_, at foot of Sugar-Loaf, from which point Arnold fled
+to the "Vulture."
+
+_Lady-Cliff Academy_, (west side) on bluff.
+
+_Hamilton Fish's Residence_, on hill, east side.
+
+_William H. Osborne's Residence_, on east bank; house with pointed
+tower north of Sugar-Loaf.
+
+_Sam Sloan's_ lookout tower, east side, on top of mountain. Residence
+on hillside below.
+
+_Buttermilk Falls_, on west bank.
+
+_West Point_, 50 miles from New York, Academy Buildings and Parade
+Grounds.
+
+_Memorial Hall_, building on bluff above landing.
+
+_Kosciusko's Garden_ with monument and spring below Memorial.
+
+_Garrison_, opposite West Point on east bank.
+
+_Fort Putnam_ (596 feet), above the Hudson on west.
+
+_West Point Hotel_, west bank, wide outlook to the north.
+
+_Battle Monument_, surmounted by Statue of "Victory."
+
+_Constitution Island_, on east bank; chain was thrown across the river
+at this point during the Revolution.
+
+_Old Cro' Nest_, picturesque mountain north of West Point on west
+bank.
+
+_Cold Spring_, on east bank, opposite Old Cro' Nest.
+
+_Undercliff_, once the home of George P. Morris, on slope north of
+Cold Spring.
+
+_Break Neck Mountain_, on east bank, from which point the Highlands
+trend away to the northeast, known as the Beacon Mountains or the
+Fishkill Range.
+
+_Storm King_, on west bank, marking northern portal of the Highlands.
+
+_Cornwall_, under the slope of Storm King.
+
+_Pollopel's Island_, at northern portal of the Highlands.
+
+_Idlewild_, above Cornwall, former home of N. P. Willis.
+
+_Washington's Headquarters_, Newburgh, seen as the boat approaches the
+city. A flag-staff marks the point.
+
+_Newburgh_, west bank, 59 miles from New York.
+
+_Fishkill Landing_, on east bank, opposite Newburgh.
+
+       * * *
+
+  Let us toast our foster-father, the Republic as you know--
+  Who in the path of science taught us upward for to go--
+  And the maidens of our native land whose cheeks like roses glow,
+  They're oft remembered in our songs, at Benny Havens--oh!
+
+  _Benny Havens, West Point._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Low Point_ or _Carthage_, 4 miles above Fishkill.
+
+_Devil's Dans Kammer_, point on west bank covered with cedars.
+
+_New Hamburg_, above Low Point, on the east side.
+
+_Hampton Point_, opposite New Hamburgh. Here are the finest white
+cedars on the river.
+
+_Irving Grinnell's Residence, "Netherwood,"_ east bank, just
+distinguished through the trees.
+
+_Shawangunk Mountains_, on the west side, reach away in the distance
+toward the Catskills.
+
+_Marlborough_ and _Milton_, on west bank.
+
+_Locust Grove._ Home of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse on east bank, with
+square central tower.
+
+_The Lookout_, a wooded hill owned by Poughkeepsie Cemetery.
+
+_Livingston Place_, now occupied by a rolling mill.
+
+_Vassar Brothers Hospital_, brick building on the hillside.
+
+_Poughkeepsie_, 74 miles from New York.
+
+_Poughkeepsie Bridge_, 12,608 feet in length. Track 212 feet above
+tide-water.
+
+_Mrs. John F. Winslow's Residence_, seen through opening of trees on
+east bank.
+
+_Hudson River State Hospital._ Large red buildings on east bank, two
+miles north of Poughkeepsie.
+
+_Hyde Park_, on the east side.
+
+_Residence of Frederick W. Vanderbilt_, with white marble Corinthian
+columns.
+
+_Manresa Institute_, large building above Crum Elbow, on west side.
+
+_A. R. Frothingham._ Grecian portico with columns.
+
+_John Burrough's_ brown stone cottage, north of Frothingham's.
+
+_The Novitiate of the Redemption Fathers_, a large new building on
+west bank at Esopus.
+
+_Staatsburgh, on east side._ Dock and ice houses in foreground.
+
+       * * *
+
+  While fashion seeks the islands
+    Encircled by the sea,
+  Taste finds the Hudson Highlands
+    More beautiful to see.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+_D. O. Mills' Mansion_, palatial residence on the east bank above
+Staatsburgh.
+
+_Dinsmore's Residence_, a large building charmingly located on
+Dinsmore Point, east bank.
+
+_Ellerslie_, residence of Ex-Vice-President Levi P. Morton, below
+Rhinecliff.
+
+_Rhinecliff_, on east bank.
+
+_City of Kingston_, embraces Kingston and Rondout.
+
+_Kingston Point._ Delightful park and picnic grounds near the landing.
+
+_Old Beekman Place_, on east bank, a short distance above Rhinecliff.
+One of the old Revolutionary houses.
+
+_Ferncliff, Residence of John Jacob Astor._ Fine villa with pointed
+tower.
+
+_Out-of-Door Sports._ A large building on east bank, erected by Mr.
+Astor.
+
+_Garretson Place_, north of Ferncliff, on east bank.
+
+_"Leacote," Douglas Merritt's Residence_, north of Clifton Point.
+
+_Flatbush_, on west bank opposite Clifton Point.
+
+_Rokeby, Residence of late William B. Astor_, above Astor's Point.
+
+_Barrytown_, on east side.
+
+_Aspinwall Place_, north of Barrytown, formerly John R. Livingston's
+place.
+
+_Montgomery Place_, east bank, among the trees.
+
+"_Annandale_," name of John Bard's place. East of this is St.
+Stephen's College, a training school for the ministry.
+
+_Cruger's Residence_, on Cruger's Island--once called Lower Red Hook
+Island.
+
+_Tivoli_, on east side, 100 miles from New York.
+
+_Glasco_, south of Tivoli on the west side.
+
+_Saugerties_, on the west side.
+
+_Idele_, property of Miss Clarkson, known as the old Chancellor Place,
+on east bank.
+
+_Hotel Kaaterskill_ is plainly seen from this point.
+
+       * * *
+
+  O would that she were here,
+    Sure Eden's garden-plot,
+  Did not embrace more varied charms
+    Than this romantic spot.
+
+  _George P. Morris._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Malden_, above Saugerties, on west side.
+
+_Clermont_, above Tivoli. The original Livingston manor.
+
+_West Camp_, on west side, above Malden.
+
+_Four County Island._ The "meeting point" of Dutchess, Columbia,
+Greene and Ulster.
+
+_Germantown_, on east side, 105 miles from New York.
+
+_Man in the Mountain._ Between Germantown and Catskill we get a fine
+view of the reclining giant, traced by the following outline:--the
+peak to the south is the _knee_; the next to the north is the
+_breast_; and two or three above this, the _chin_, the _nose_, and the
+_forehead_.
+
+_Roeliff Jansen's Kill_ meets the Hudson on east bank above what is
+known by the pilots as Nine Mile Tree.
+
+_Herman Livingston's Residence_, on point above.
+
+_Catskill Creek_ joins the Hudson south of Catskill.
+
+_Catskill_, 110 miles from New York. Route from this point to Catskill
+Mountains, via Catskill Mountain Railroad.
+
+_Prospect Park Hotel_, on west bank, north of Catskill.
+
+_Cole's Grove_, north of Catskill. Here was the residence of Thomas
+Cole, the artist.
+
+_Frederick E. Church's Residence._ One of the most commanding sites
+and finest residences, opposite Catskill.
+
+_Rodger's Island_, on the east side, where the last battle was fought
+between the Mohawks and the Mahicans.
+
+_Mount Merino_, two miles north of Roger's Island.
+
+_State Reformatory for Women_, on bluff south of Hudson.
+
+_Hudson_, 115 miles from New York. Promenade Hill just north of
+landing.
+
+_Athens_, quiet village, on the west bank.
+
+_Stockport._ On east side, four miles north of Hudson, near the mouth
+of Columbiaville Creek, formed by the union of the Kinderhook and
+Claverack Creeks.
+
+_Four-mile Point._ On west side, about 125 feet high; four miles from
+Hudson and four from Coxsackie.
+
+_Coxsackie._ On west side, 8 miles from Hudson.
+
+       * * *
+
+  For while the beautiful moon arose,
+    And drifted the boat in the yellow beams,
+  My soul went down the river of thought
+    That flows in the mystic land of dreams.
+
+  _Richard Henry Stoddard._
+
+       * * *
+
+_Newtown Hook_, opposite Coxsackie. The wooded point is called
+Prospect Grove.
+
+_Stuyvesant._ On the east side. Once called Kinderhook Landing.
+
+_Schodack Island._ On east side, about two miles above Stuyvesant. The
+island is about 3 miles long.
+
+_New Baltimore._ About opposite the centre of Schodack Island; fifteen
+miles from Hudson and fifteen from Albany. The Government dykes begin
+opposite New Baltimore.
+
+_Berren Island._ Site of the famous "Castle of Rensselaerstien."
+
+_Coeymans._ Right above Berren Island. Above Coeymans is what is known
+as the Coeyman's Cross Over.
+
+_Shad Island._ The first island to the westward above Coeymans; 3
+miles long; old Indian fishing ground.
+
+_Castleton_, on east bank, in the town of Schodack.
+
+_Mourdeners Kill_, a small stream which empties into the Hudson above
+Castleton.
+
+_Sunnyside Island_ near east bank.
+
+_Cedar Hill_, above, on west bank.
+
+_Staats Island_, settled by the Staats family before the arrival of
+the Van Rensselaers.
+
+_The Overslaugh_ reaches from Van Wies' Point (the first point above
+Cedar Hill), on east bank, about two miles up the river.
+
+_Albany_, 142 miles from New York, is now near at hand, and we see to
+the south the Convent of the Sacred Heart; to the north the Cathedral,
+the Capitol, the State House, the City Hall, etc.
+
+_Rensselaer_, opposite. Connected with Albany by ferries two railroad
+bridges, and carriage bridge.
+
+_Old Van Rensselaer Place._ One of the Van Rensselaer houses on the
+east bank, built before the Revolution. The tourist will note the port
+holes on either side of the door as defense against Indians.
+
+       * * *
+
+  In love to the deep-bosomed stream of the west
+  I fling this loose blossom to float on its breast.
+
+  _Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+       * * *
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note--Errata (Old Typos) and Corrections
+
+   TOC:--
+      Entries for "New Amsterdam" and "The Dutch and the English"
+        reversed, and page number for New Amsterdam changed from 25 to 23.
+      Page number for "New York" changed from 26 to 27.
+      Page number for "Yonkers to West Point" changed from 59 to 60.
+      Changed: '97-104' to '97-103', to match entry.
+      Changed: '152' (1st listing) to '151', to match entry.
+      Page number for "Source of the Hudson" changed from 201 to 202.
+      Changed: 'Colombia County' to 'Columbia Springs', to match entry.
+   Page 9: Restored missing period and missing half of closing quote.
+     [Illustration: Hendrick Hudson's "Half Moon."]
+   Page 35: added 's' to 'landing' (...steamers make their various
+      landings.)
+   Page 43: removed extraneous closing quote.
+   Page 46: added comma after 'erection' (..., now in process of
+      erection, ...)
+   Page 55: added 's' to 'make' (forgetting even, as Bryant did, that a
+     vertical line from the top of the cliff on account of the crumbling
+     debris of ages make(s) it impossible for even the strongest arm to
+     hurl a stone from the summit to the margin of the river).
+   Page 59: missing closing quote, and possibly also missing text in
+     paragraph?
+      (one narrator says: "remarkable disappearances ...)
+   Page 76: changed 'materal' to 'material'.
+   Page 80: changed 'Revoluton'to 'Revolution'.
+   Page 94: added missing comma after 'library': "The Library, founded
+     in 1812, has about 50,000 volumes."
+   Page 95: changed 'Seige' to 'Siege'"... Siege Battery on the slope...."
+   Page 96: changed 'pictureque' to 'picturesque'.
+   Page 107: changed (Major Tench) 'Tighlman' to 'Tilghman'.
+   Page 107: added opening quote ..."the proclamation of Congress and
+      the farewell orders of Washington were read, and the last word
+      of command given."
+   Page 108/9: changed 'proclams' to 'proclaims'.
+   Page 110: changed: 'The Marquis De Chastelleaux' to 'The Marquis De
+     Chastellux' (ref.: google)
+   Page 113: changed: 'The Marquis De Chastelleux' to 'The Marquis De
+     Chastellux'
+   Page 125: added 's' to 'thousand' (thousands of young men)
+   Page 129: (While sunset gilds) 'theee', to 'thee',
+   Page 139: changed 'openng' to 'opening'.
+   Page 145: changed 'Sofly' to 'Softly'.
+   Page 153: changed 'communicaton' to 'communication'.
+   Page 153: added closing quote (in about 32 hours.")
+   Page 155: changed 'wth' to 'with'
+   Page 173: changed 'thousand' to 'thousands' (...thousands of
+     laboring men... )
+   Page 205: added 's' to 'brick' (thousands of bricks)
+   Page 212: added " to para beginning ("Viewed from the railroad ...)
+   Page 212: added 's' to 'thousand' (Thousands of travellers ...)
+
+Also added: Periods and commas, various (in the poetry footnotes). The
+text appears worn; there is space for a period (and a couple of letters
+are missing), so I am assuming that the missing punctuation may have
+been rubbed off the page.
+
+I have also encountered a number of instances throughout the book where
+the author quoted from an external source and omitted either the opening
+or closing quotation mark, and it is not obvious from the text just
+where the quote began or ended. In a couple of instances I have hazarded
+a guess, but have otherwise left the single quotaton mark in place, as it
+appears in the original.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Hudson, by Wallace Bruce
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HUDSON ***
+
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