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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by 
+Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Land of the Black Mountain
+       The Adventures of Two Englishmen in  Montenegro
+
+Author: Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+Release Date: January 27, 2006 [EBook #17613]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by University of Michigan Digital Library,
+Nikola Smolenski, Sankar Viswanathan,
+and Online Distributed Proofreading Team at Distributed
+Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                              THE LAND OF
+                          THE BLACK MOUNTAIN
+
+
+
+                   THE ADVENTURES OF TWO ENGLISHMEN
+                             IN MONTENEGRO
+
+
+
+                                  BY
+
+                    REGINALD WYON AND GERALD PRANCE
+
+
+                     WITH FIFTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+
+
+
+                "SOME GLIMPSING AND NO PERFECT SIGHT"
+
+                                                 CHAUCER
+
+
+
+                         NEW AND CHEAPER ISSUE
+
+
+                             METHUEN & CO.
+                         36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
+                                LONDON
+
+
+
+_First Published March 1903
+New and Cheaper Issue 1905_
+
+
+[Illustration: H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO]
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATED BY KIND PERMISSION
+
+TO
+
+H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS
+OF MONTENEGRO
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+Montenegro's geographical position--Character of the people--Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms--Likeness to the Homeric
+Greeks--The women--Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of
+privacy, police--Goodness of the Prince--The national
+costume--Religion--Hatred of Austria--Russia's friendship
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to the
+present Prince--Fruits of the last campaign--Education--The
+military system--Legal administration--Crime--Government--The
+educated classes
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+The journey to Montenegro--Arrival in Cattaro--Beauty of the
+Bocche, and the drive to the frontier--First impressions of
+Montenegro--Njeguši--The national troubadours--Arrival in
+Cetinje
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The
+barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our
+departure for Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The
+market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside
+hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Morača--The
+Vizier bridge--Old war-marks--First and last impressions of
+Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in
+Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The
+prison and its inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The
+modern town--The market and the armed buyers--The
+Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin methods of doing
+business
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and business--His part in Montenegrin
+history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The Death
+Dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The
+hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuž--A typical country inn and a
+meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baćo, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated
+nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The
+priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+Stephan our servant--Virpazar--The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass--Antivari and Prstan--The beauty of the bay--We are
+delayed by contrary winds--We are rowed to Dulcigno--We
+make the acquaintance of Marko Ivanković--A story concerning
+him--We shoot together--An episode on a lake--Vaccination--The
+Turkish inhabitants
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer
+much from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass
+the Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious
+troubles--The town and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding,
+Yes and No--We return to Rijeka by steamer--The beauties
+of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's return, when
+the fatted calf is _not_ killed
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+Preparations for our tour in the Brda--We start--Where it is not good
+to be giddy--A trying ride--Our inn--Nocturnal episodes--The journey
+continued--Pleasant surroundings--The Montenegrin _quart
+d'heure_--Arrival in Kolašin--We meet the Governor--Visiting--The Band
+of Good Hope--The Crown Prince's birthday--We are ashamed
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+Montenegro's oldest building--The ride to the Morača Monastery--A
+perilous bridge and ascent--The Abbot's tale--We inspect the
+Monastery--The health of the King is drunk--The relative merits of
+Boers and Montenegrins--The Abbot makes us presents--We visit a
+peasant's house and a Homeric feast--A feu-de-joie--Departure from
+Kolašin--We are mistaken for doctors again--Raskrsnica
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+A typical mountain hut--Costume of the north-eastern borderers--Supper
+and a song--We go out hunting, and cause excitement--The Feast of
+Honour--We ride to Andrijevica--Andrijevica and our inn--The
+Voivoda--We go to church--Turkish visitors--Alarums
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika--The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story--We arrive at
+Velika--The men of Velika--The ménu--Border jurisdiction--A
+shooting-match--The Kom--Pleasant evenings--A young
+philosopher--Sunset
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+We leave Andrijevica--Our additional escort--The arrival at our
+camping-place--In an enemy's country--The story of one Gjolić--Our
+slumbers are disturbed--Sunrise on the Alps--We disappoint our
+escort--"Albanian or Montenegrin?"--A reconnaissance--The Forest of
+Vučipotok--The forbidden land--narrow escape--We arrive at
+Rikavac--Rain damps our ardour--Nocturnal visitors
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+More memorial stones--We get wet again--Unwilling hosts--A fall--The
+Franciscan of Zatrijebać--The ravine of the Zem--Methods of settling
+tribal differences--A change of diet and more pleasant evenings--A
+fatalist--Sunday morning
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Kećo's story--The laws
+of vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
+Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
+birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
+costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
+coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
+hermit--A miracle--Nikšić--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
+palace--We are disappointed at Nikšić
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
+of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
+subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
+of infancy--A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
+a memorable drive--A fervent prayer
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
+consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
+appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical
+lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of
+tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and
+apostrophe
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO        _Frontispiece_
+
+THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO
+
+THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO
+
+NJEGUSI
+
+THE GUSLAR
+
+MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY
+
+THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG
+
+THE PRINCE'S PALACE
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF CETINJE
+
+THE FEMALE PRISONERS
+
+THE PRISONERS DANCING
+
+THE VIZIER BRIDGE
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA
+
+THE RIBNICA
+
+THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN
+
+VOIVODA MARKO
+
+SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL
+
+SPUZ
+
+ACHMET UIKO
+
+SOKOL BACO
+
+THE POP OF VRANJINA
+
+AN ALBANIAN GIRL
+
+VIRPAZAR
+
+ANTIVARI OR BAR
+
+MARKO IVANKOVIC
+
+THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA
+
+VACCINATION
+
+BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO
+
+THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI
+
+KOLASIN--THE MARKET-PLACE
+
+THE KOLO
+
+A TYPICAL ROAD
+
+THE MORACA MONASTERY
+
+OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA
+
+ANDRIJEVICA
+
+CHURCH PARADE
+
+VELIKA
+
+MORINA
+
+THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA
+
+THE VASOJEYICKI KOM
+
+ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA
+
+THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS
+
+THE PATH THROUGH THE VUCIPOTOK
+
+AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAC
+
+MONTENEGRIN WOMEN
+
+THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG
+
+THE UPPER MONASTERY
+
+THE CHURCH, NIKSIC
+
+THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE
+
+A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE
+
+AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+"What a terrible country!" said a lady tourist to me once in Cetinje,
+"nothing but barren grey rocks; and what poverty! I declare I shan't
+breathe freely till I am out of it again."
+
+This is a common opinion of travellers to Montenegro, and one that is
+spread by them all over Europe. And yet how unjust! A fairly large
+number of tourists take the drive from beautiful little Cattaro up
+that wild mountain-side and through the barren Katunska to Cetinje. A
+few hours later they return the way they came, convinced that they
+have seen Montenegro. A few, very few, prolong the tour to Podgorica
+and Nikšić, returning with a still firmer conviction that they have
+penetrated into the very fastnesses of that wonderful little land.
+These chosen few have at least seen that all is not bare and rocky,
+that there are rich green valleys, rushing mountain torrents, and
+pleasant streams.
+
+If they are very observant they will likewise notice that the men of
+these parts are more wildly clad and fiercer-looking than their more
+polished brethren of the "residence." Rifles are carried more
+universally the nearer lies Albania, and in Podgorica itself they will
+have seen--particularly if chance has brought them there on a
+market-day--crowds of savage-looking hill-men, clad in the white serge
+costume of Albania, standing over their handful of field produce with
+loaded rifles; stern men from the borders with seamed faces; sturdy
+plains-men tanned to a mahogany tint by the almost tropical sun of the
+valleys; shepherds in great sheepskins, be it ever so hot; and haughty
+Turks, hodjas, and veiled women, all in a crowded confusion, haggling
+and bartering. Quaint wooden carts drawn by patient oxen, their huge
+clumsy wheels creaking horribly; gypsies with thunderous voices acting
+as town criers; madmen shrieking horribly; blind troubadours droning
+out songs of heroes on their guslars. If the tourist has witnessed and
+understood all this, then he has seen something of Montenegro. But
+beyond those lofty mountains which rise on either side of the carriage
+road, live these same people in their rude villages. There are towns
+far away, unconnected by any road, to reach which the traveller must
+journey wearily by horse and on foot, over boulder-strewn paths, by
+the side of roaring torrents, through the cool depths of primeval
+forests, and over the snow-clad spurs of rugged mountains. There he
+will find men accustomed to face death at any moment, who delight in
+giving hospitality, and who talk of other lands as "the world
+outside." These are the Montenegrins to whom we owe some of the most
+pleasant reminiscences of our lives.
+
+Our book does not describe the whole country, as unfortunately we were
+unable to visit the northern districts and the lofty Durmitor, but we
+certainly saw the more interesting half, namely, the whole of the
+Albanian frontier.
+
+Amongst those hardy borderers we made many warm friends, but it would
+be invidious to mention names amongst so many. We came to the country
+with a single introduction, to Dr. Stefanelli, the companion of many
+of our journeys, and we left at the conclusion of six months with a
+host of friends. Still to two we wish humbly to express our gratitude
+for many acts of, at the time, unknown courtesy, namely, H.R.H. Prince
+Nicolas, and the Metropolitan of Montenegro, Mitrofanban. As a slight
+token of our thanks to, and admiration of, that true father of his
+people, Prince Nicolas, we respectfully dedicate this book to the
+soldier-poet and prince of the Land of the Black Mountain.
+
+Since we finished the story of our travels, I have had the honour of
+speaking long with Prince Nicolas and of seeing him on many occasions;
+for during our first travels in the land we were always strangely
+unlucky in this respect. I then learnt how our progress through
+Montenegro had been watched over, and contingencies provided for,
+which we had taken as a matter of course.
+
+Some, alas! of our friends are now no more. The Governor of Podgorica
+was shot down in broad daylight a short while ago whilst taking his
+midday promenade in which we so often shared. Others, too, have fallen
+on the borders. Friends are easily lost in Montenegro, where a charge
+of powder and a bullet settle differences.
+
+Disagreeable episodes happened to us--they happen everywhere--but
+these we have rightly or wrongly omitted. The good that we experienced
+certainly outweighed the bad, and that shall be our reason for so
+doing.
+
+And again, throughout the book we have given our _first_ impressions,
+much of it was written during our actual progress through the land. It
+may be that our feelings will thus be more interesting than a
+cut-and-dried treatise of the land and its inhabitants.
+
+In conclusion, it will not be amiss to add an explanation of the Serb
+names which appear throughout the book in the original spelling. The
+names have often an unpronounceable appearance, and look harsh and
+forbidding. This is far from the case, for the Serb language is
+full-toned and musical.
+
+In common with the Slav languages it has a sixth vowel, viz.
+"r"--hence such words as "Srb" (Serb), "trg" (place or square), and
+"Trst" (Triest). It is only necessary to roll the "r" to overcome this
+seeming anomaly of a collection of consonants. The language is spoken
+exactly as it is written, as for instance Italian, but the consonants
+s, c, and z vary according to their accents.
+
+"s" is our sharp s; but with inverted circumflex
+
+"š" it becomes "ssh," as in "show."
+
+"c" is pronounced "tz": thus Cetinje is spoken Tzetinje; Podgorica as
+Podgoritza.
+
+"ć" and "č" are accentuated "tsch": as Petrović, Petrovitsch; Morača,
+Moratcha.
+
+"z" is soft, as "s" in "rose."
+
+"ž" is sounded like the French "j" in "journal."
+
+"dž" is sounded like the "j" in "James."
+
+"nj" is sounded like the "gn" in French "campagne": Tzetigné
+(Cetinje), and so on.
+
+We are fully aware of many shortcomings, and for these we crave
+pardon, but if we benefit little Montenegro by the publication of our
+work, then we shall not have written it in vain.
+
+England has once before proved the friend of Montenegro; the fighting
+instincts of that brave race, their love of freedom, and the
+possession of their most glorious of histories appeal to all of us.
+
+I fear there are troublous times ahead for that gallant little nation,
+perhaps another bitter disappointment is in store for them, when they
+will need a friend.
+
+Times have changed now, personal valour avails but little against
+overwhelming armies and modern artillery.
+
+"We little nations must beseech the Almighty to give us peace," said
+Prince Nicolas to me not so very long ago.
+
+May it be His will!
+
+R.W.
+
+VIENNA, _February, 1903_
+
+
+
+
+THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+Montenegro's geographical position--Character of the people--Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms--Likeness to the Homeric
+Greeks--The women--Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of
+privacy, police--Goodness of the Prince--The national
+costume--Religion--Hatred of Austria--Russia's friendship.
+
+
+Roughly Montenegro is diamond-shaped, with its points towards north
+and south, east and west. To the north-east it is bounded by the
+Sandjak of Novipazar, held by Turkey and Austria jointly, and dividing
+it from its parent country, the kingdom of Servia. To the south-east
+lies Albania, while Austria again borders Montenegro in Bosnia and the
+Hercegovina in the north-west and in Dalmatia to the south-west.
+Dalmatia and a narrow strip of the Adria complete the circuit, so
+Austria practically surrounds Montenegro on three sides.
+
+The land may be said to possess three distinct belts of vegetation,
+each of an entirely different character. It is divided from north to
+south by the River Zeta, and the low-lying plains are fertile and
+rich, and this district also comprises the sea coast. To the west is
+the Katunska or "Shepherds' huts," those barren and rocky mountains of
+old Montenegro, from which the country derives its name; while to the
+east lies the Brda, mountains vying with Switzerland in beauty, rich
+grazing grounds and densely-wooded hills abounding with game, and the
+streams well stocked with fish.
+
+The plains are the granaries of Montenegro, unfortunately too limited
+in area to give an abundance, but there is a mine of wealth in the
+Brda, when that part shall be opened up by connecting roads. The vast
+primeval forests and mineral products will be an important source of
+income in the times to come. Even at the present day the district
+constitutes the chief source of revenue from the export of cattle,
+sheep, and horses which flourish on the magnificent mountain
+pasturages. Montenegrin wool, greatly famed, comes too from the Brda.
+
+It is chiefly in the Katunska, the cradle of the Montenegrin nation,
+that the most interesting geological formations are to be found, and
+in these formations lay its former strength. The most prominent
+features of the Karst region are imperfect valleys which have no
+outlet. As a consequence of this, the water cannot escape by an
+overground bed, so it forces itself through the porous surface to
+reappear in a lower valley, undermining the subsoil, which in time
+collapses, and forms the oases of this otherwise barren land. The
+rain washes down the little earth that there is on the hillside, the
+chemical action of the limestone oxidises the same, and the so-called
+"terra rossa" is formed in these depressions, sufficient to give
+nourishment to the trees and bushes which grow there. The frugal
+peasant cultivates these tiny patches of earth and derives enough
+crops to subsist on, the goats and cattle living on the bushes and
+smaller trees.
+
+In olden times the little nation found barely enough substance for
+themselves, consisting as they did of but a few thousand, but an
+invading army starved. It was in truth a land "where a small army is
+beaten, a large one dies of hunger."
+
+The character of the people has been formed by their surroundings.
+Hardy and frugal, capable of subsisting on the smallest amount of
+nourishment, lithe and active, and open and fearless as their native
+mountains.
+
+Their food consists of a piece of maize bread at daybreak, and they
+eat nothing again till sunset, when bread and a little milk form their
+evening meal. Meat is eaten but rarely, and then they feast. The
+athletic feat of crossing rock-strewn surfaces, bounding from rock to
+rock at a great pace, rivalling their goats in sure-footedness at dizzy
+and precipitous heights, has lent their gait that perfect grace of
+motion which characterises the mountaineer, and in particular the
+Montenegrin. The danger in which they have perpetually lived,
+accustomed to look death in the face at any moment, has stamped upon
+them that open and fearless look which most forcibly strikes the
+stranger.
+
+Their blood is of the purest and noblest in the Balkans, for they are
+largely descended from the noble families of the old Servian Empire
+who fled to the Katunska after the bloody field of Kossovo, which
+destroyed the might of the Serbs for ever. It is probably from these
+ancestors that their noble bearing and perfect manners, in even
+strange and unaccustomed surroundings, are derived. Their notion of
+honour is of the highest, and thieving and robbery are practically
+unknown.
+
+Prince Nicolas, like King Alfred, trusts his subjects in this matter
+of thieving implicitly. Should a man drop a case of banknotes on the
+road, the law says that the finder shall pick it up and place it on
+the nearest stone, so that the loser has but to retrace his steps,
+glancing at the wayside stones. This law is invariably followed.
+
+The Montenegrins are still an armed nation, and the following proverbs
+illustrate their love of weapons. One says, "A man without arms is a
+man without freedom"; the other says, "Thou mayest as well take away
+my brother as my rifle."
+
+Their patriotism and unswerving loyalty to the reigning Prince have
+ever been their most brilliant virtues.
+
+The famous traveller Kohl has likened the Montenegrins to the ancient
+Greeks of Homeric times, and the comparison holds good to this day.
+
+"Love of freedom and pride of weapons, simplicity of life--remember
+the love of mutton and wine, as described by Homer--hospitality, the
+superiority of man over woman, all these features, together with the
+fact that the heroes are themselves the singers of their deeds," says
+Kohl, "are to be found in the Montenegrins, as well as in the Greeks
+of Homer."
+
+Woman takes a very inferior position in Montenegro. She is respected
+in a sense, and her position has improved greatly in recent times,
+chiefly owing to the example set by the Prince himself. At the
+official reception held on New Year's Day, when the humblest peasant
+can go to Cetinje and kiss the Prince's hand, Prince Nicolas places
+his wife to his right, and every man must first kiss her hand. Thus in
+the highest classes woman takes very nearly the same place as in
+civilised lands, but as the social scale descends, so does the
+position of woman.
+
+In the lowest classes she is still not much more than a beast of
+burden, given to man to ease his lot. She carries heavy burdens to
+market, while her lord rides; she may not walk at his side, but a few
+paces to the rear; neither may she sit at table in the presence of
+strange men. The kiss with which men salute each other is not allowed
+to her, and she must kiss the hand only of the man. Likewise, she must
+rise to her feet when men pass by, and in some districts, should she
+meet a man on the way, she must stop and remain standing meekly at the
+side of the path; also, she must leave the room backwards. Neither of
+these last-mentioned customs is universal, but are to be found largely
+in the Brda.
+
+The men are handsome and often of immense stature. Giants of 6 feet 8
+inches are by no means uncommon; in fact, a few such men will be seen
+in every town. The average height is quite 5 feet 10 or 11 inches,
+broad-shouldered and deep-chested, with pleasant faces.
+
+The women are often strikingly beautiful, especially when young, but
+hard work ages them very quickly; in the upper classes, however,
+middle-aged and elderly women of regal appearance can often be seen.
+It is the manners of such women and universally of the men which comes
+as the greatest surprise, when it is remembered that none or very few
+have ever seen anything of the outside world.
+
+The faults of the nation are inordinate vanity in their appearance,
+causing them to impoverish themselves for the sake of gorgeous
+clothes, and gambling. They gamble to an excessive degree, heaping
+debt after debt upon their heads. Both these vices have caused an
+active legislation. Gold embroidery has been abolished on the uniforms
+of the army officers, and Prince Danilo has already declared that on
+coming to the throne he will abolish the national costume altogether,
+_i.e._ amongst the officials and the upper classes.
+
+They love money and will do a good deal to get it, but when they have
+money, they spend it in a reckless and freehanded manner. Thus they
+will overcharge a stranger in an exorbitant fashion, thinking, in
+their simple minds, that travellers are possessed of unlimited means.
+Tourists are largely to blame for this, and pay, without audible
+comment, what is asked. If a strong remonstrance is made, the charge
+will be reduced in most cases. The dawn of civilisation has brought
+the love of money, the frugal Montenegrins are now awakening to what
+money will procure them, and they take as much as they can get without
+thought, and without swindling intentions. Perhaps the lack of banks
+or any institute where money can be saved up, may account for this.
+Merchants buy houses or increase their stock. The peasant, as often as
+not, gambles it away or buys fine clothes, a few thrifty ones
+purchasing an extra cow.
+
+No doubt the influence of civilisation, and in particular the
+long-delayed prosperity of the land which is now slowly raising its
+head, will alter this.
+
+They very rarely quarrel, never brawl, and are hardly ever to be seen
+in a state of intoxication.
+
+On the other hand, they are merry, convivial, boon companions, and are
+never happier than when dancing, singing their war songs and love
+romances, or listening to the "guslar"--the national troubadour.
+
+The characteristic bravery is still manifested in reckless deeds of
+"derring do" on the Albanian borders. Shepherds will deliberately
+drive their flocks across the frontier, thereby courting instant
+death. Many instances have been given illustrating their love of
+danger.
+
+Privacy of dwellings is non-existent. Men walk in and out, seating
+themselves in the room and talking. In the evening the men will
+congregate, stand and squat in a large ring, and solemnly discuss the
+events of the day, or in towns will walk majestically up and down the
+main street swinging the graceful "struka" or shawl from their
+shoulders. Likewise, the drinking-houses are used as common
+meeting-places, and there is no need to order refreshment.
+
+Marriages, baptisms, deaths are occasions for great feasting, when the
+national sheep is killed and roasted whole, and wine and spirits
+consumed in appalling quantities, without however affecting the heads
+of these iron people.
+
+To keep order, there is a ridiculously small force of police or
+gendarmes, and their object is more to preserve the peace in places
+where different races meet, animated with fanatical hatred of each
+other. But during the whole time of our sojourn in Montenegro, we
+never witnessed a single case of men arrested for petty offences, or
+for breaking the peace by common brawling or drunkenness. The only
+cases that we did see were connected with the vendetta, which still
+flourishes. In the course of our travels in the land we have
+sufficiently illustrated this lamentable feature that no further
+comments are necessary.
+
+Prince Nicolas is said to know the name of every one of his subjects,
+and will accost him by it. This is doubtless a great exaggeration, and
+probably means that he knows personally all those who fought under him
+in the last war, when the nation was considerably smaller than it is
+now.
+
+No man is too humble but that the Prince will stop and speak to him,
+and ask him how the world is using him. The man rarely goes
+empty-handed away. In these latter days the Prince is not so
+open-handed as formerly, neither does he make so free with his
+presence, but still it is no difficult thing for any of his subjects
+to obtain an audience. He will stop a man at haphazard on the road
+and examine his weapons, and woe betide him if his revolver is carried
+empty. Every chamber but one must be loaded.
+
+A characteristic instance of the Prince's observancy was once given in
+Cetinje. An incongruous habit is creeping into the country of carrying
+a huge cotton umbrella in the great heat. The Prince met a man
+carrying one open, and promptly broke it over his head, saying--
+
+"Art thou a hero, to carry a woman's sunshade?"
+
+For even to-day the youngest man will maintain that he is a "hero" by
+right of ancestry, and has no doubt of his capability to act up to the
+traditions of his country in the event of war.
+
+The national costume is worn by all, and in the richer classes is very
+gorgeous. The combination of colour is in exquisite taste. There are
+many variations, but a description of the gala uniform will suffice.
+
+The cap, or "kapa," is the same for Prince and peasant. It is red with
+a deep black border, which only leaves a small crown of the foundation
+colour. On this crown in one corner are the letters "Н.I." (in Latin
+characters "N.I." or Nicolas 1st) and five semicircles in gold. The
+explanations as to the meanings are slightly different. Both say the
+black border is symbolic of mourning for the losses at Kossovo, while
+the five lines are explained either as signifying the five centuries
+which have elapsed since that terrible battle or as symbolic of a
+rainbow--the sign of hope that one day the glories of the old Serb
+empire will be restored. The red crown signifies "the field of blood,"
+as the Hebrews have it. Furthermore, the different insignia of rank
+are worn on the rim of the cap, from the double eagle and lion of the
+senator in brass, the different combinations of crossed swords of the
+officer, to the simple star of lead of the corporal.
+
+The costume consists of a "džamadan," a red waistcoat, embroidered
+with gold or black silk--the former on gala occasions--over which the
+"gunj" is worn, a long, white or very pale blue coat, cut so that the
+breast is left open and free. Another sleeveless jacket is worn,
+again, over the gunj, called the "jelek," and is a mass of heavy gold
+and silk embroidery, quite stiff in fact, and a marvel of beautiful
+tracing and patterns.
+
+Round the waist are three separate belts, the first a common belt,
+then the leather "kolan" for the support of the weapons, and over all
+a silk sash, the "pas," sometimes twenty yards long, wound round and
+round many times and of brilliant colours.
+
+Below, knee-breeches of dark blue material and voluminous proportions,
+called "gaće," bordered round the pockets with gold-work, and high,
+patent-leather boots. This latter is merely modern dandyism; the still
+invariably worn "dokoljenice" are white gaiters, fastened at the back
+with hooks and eyes, which reach to the "opanki"--shoes made of a flat
+leather sole, bound over with a thick network of whipcord.
+
+The ordinary costume of the better classes for everyday wear (and this
+is the uniform of the officers) is a short red jacket, embroidered
+like the waistcoat in black silk, with sleeves carried either hussar
+fashion, hanging behind, or over the sleeves of the waistcoat.
+
+Then there are green gunj and even dark blue. The peasant wears
+usually a coarse white serge gunj for every day and an ordinary shirt.
+
+In the mountain districts and borderlands of the Brda the Albanian
+costume of tight-fitting white serge trousers, bordered with black
+braid, is largely worn.
+
+The women wear a somewhat modified array of colour. The girls wear the
+kapa, without the letters or rainbow; the married women a lace
+mantilla over their shoulders. The hair is worn, in the case of the
+married women, in a heavy crown-like plait.
+
+A white, slightly embroidered bodice, silver girdle, and silk skirt,
+over which is worn a similar open coat to the gunj. And again over
+this comes the "ječerma," a jacket of red, blue, or violet velvet,
+according to the age of the woman.
+
+The effect in both men and women is tasteful and picturesque in the
+extreme.
+
+The struka, or shawl, is greatly worn by men, and the sweeping,
+swinging effect is most pleasing. It is a shawl of sufficient length
+that when folded to a narrow width and worn over the shoulders the
+tassels just touch the ground.
+
+Some of the poorest peasants wear huge sheepskin jackets, even in hot
+weather.
+
+At the head of the Greek Orthodox Church, which is the religion of the
+land, is an Archbishop, or "Vladika." Hardly more than half a century
+ago, the Vladika was Prince and Bishop in one. To-day the Vladika is
+absolute spiritual head of the Church in Montenegro, and only in
+matters pertaining to divorce are his rulings reversible by the
+Prince.
+
+The hatred of the Roman Catholic religion is most marked. The term
+"Catholic" is an epithet of opprobrium. Hence the hatred of Albania,
+which on the borders is entirely Roman Catholic. The hated Catholics
+also, in the shape of Austria, hem in Montenegro on three sides, and
+this factor, added to the unfriendly part that Austria played at the
+Berlin Congress, may account for the growing animosity which is now
+slowly making itself manifest against her in Montenegro. Turkey is no
+longer feared; in fact, friendly relations are cultivated and steadily
+increasing; but against Austria very different feelings are held.
+Austria holds the Bocche de Cattaro, which the Montenegrins took
+possession of in the Napoleonic wars, commands Antivari, and has edged
+herself in between the kingdom of Servia and Montenegro in the
+Sandjak of Novipazar. The inhabitants of the Bocche and a large part
+of the population of Bosnia and the Hercegovina look to the Prince of
+Montenegro as their lawful ruler.
+
+It is the oft and open stated dream of Prince Nicolas to see the great
+Serb-speaking nations re-united, and much as Russia has helped and is
+fostering this wish, Austria relentlessly checkmates every move in
+this direction. Austria is even striving to gain influence in Albania
+through the means of the Roman Catholic priests, who are said to be
+largely in her pay.
+
+Thus Austria, surrounding Montenegro as she does at present, and
+enlisting the sympathies of the Albanians, can command every inlet to
+that brave little country. A "Schwab," as every German-speaking
+foreigner is termed, is consequently viewed with no friendly eyes;
+while the Russian is welcomed openly as a friend.
+
+Russia, however, can never hope to buy the allegiance of the
+Montenegrins; for while appreciating friendly assistance, the faintest
+attempt to obtain undue influence of power would be sharply resented.
+
+Montenegro will yield her absolute independence to none.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to
+the present Prince--Fruits of the last campaign--Education--The
+military system--Legal administration--Crime--Government--The educated
+classes.
+
+
+The district which corresponds most nearly to Montenegro of the
+present day comes first into notice when the Romans attacked Queen
+Teuta and drove her back beyond the modern Podgorica in the third
+century B.C. From this time onwards Roman influence made
+itself felt strongly in the Prævalitana, an outlying province of
+Illyria, and the city of Dioclea--whose ruins still exist in the
+neighbourhood of Podgorica, and which was to play such an important
+part in the germ state of Crnagora, or the "Land of the Black
+Mountain"--rose into being. Diocletian, the famous divider of the
+Roman Empire, was born there, and the city became the capital of the
+district to which it gave the name. The triumvirs placed the
+border-line of the Eastern and Western divisions at Skodra, or
+Scutari, as the Europeans call it. Under the early empire, the land
+was perpetually changing from East to West, but when the Western
+division fell under the weight of barbarian invasions Ǔin 476 A.D.,
+it was finally incorporated in the East. This was a momentous
+decision, for the manners and habits of the people still remain tinged
+with Eastern life, and in the ninth century it secured their adhesion
+to the Eastern Church, which influences their policy to the present
+time. The principality of Dioclea, or Zeta, as it soon became called,
+was one of the confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius in 622
+A.D., to act as a buffer state against the inroads of the Avars. Each
+state was ruled by a Župan or Prince who owed allegiance to the Grand
+Župan, the head of the heptarchy. But the confederation was very
+loose, the rival chieftains fighting amongst one another for the
+supremacy, for the Serb race has ever been noted for its lack of unity
+and corresponding love of freedom. The famous Bulgarian Czar Samuel,
+_circa_ 980, who had overrun the rest of the Serb states, and made for
+himself a great empire, found that he was powerless to conquer the
+warlike John Vladimir of the Zeta; and again, nearly a century later,
+in 1050, we find the Zeta Župa so powerful that their Prince assumes
+the title of King of Servia, and is confirmed in his right by Gregory
+VII., the famous Pope Hildebrand. Dissensions then broke out again,
+and for the next hundred years the land owned the sway of the Greek
+Empire. The two most celebrated Serb kings--Stefan Nemanja (1143) and
+Stefan Dušan (1336-1356)--both ascended to the head of the
+confederation from the principality of the Zeta. The latter raised the
+Serb kingdom to its zenith, and formed an ephemeral empire which bears
+many a resemblance to that of Napoleon. Montenegro had all this time
+been steadily growing, and on the accession of Dušan to Servia, the
+district of the Zeta fell to the Balšić, who proved themselves to be a
+strong and competent race of rulers. They increased their territories
+to such an extent that, at the time of the battle of Kossovo, they
+could boast to ruling over all the land from Ragusa to the mouth of
+the Drin, including the present West Montenegro and Southern
+Hercegovina, with Skodra as the capital. After the overthrow of the
+great Servian Empire on the field of Kossovo, Montenegro became
+entirely independent of outside suzerainty, and from the year 1389 to
+the present day, is the only Balkan state which has successfully
+defied the invasions of the Turk. The Balšić engaged themselves in
+several fruitless wars with Venice, by which they lost Skodra, so
+that, when their line died out and the succession fell to Stefan
+Crnoiević (the name Crnoiević, Black Prince, is supposed by some to be
+the origin of the name Crnagora or Black Mountain), a new capital must
+perforce be built, at the northern end of the lake, called Žabljak.
+Stefan Crnoiević allied himself with Skenderbeg, the King of Albania,
+and within twelve years is said to have fought over fifty battles
+with the Turks who, in their impotent rage, poured army after army
+into the land, but entirely failed to break the courage of this brave
+little people. His people gave him the title of Voivoda of the Zeta,
+but the limits of his principality seem to have been very undefined.
+The position of his son Ivan was, however, of greater danger, for in
+1444 the kingdom of Hungary had fallen before the Turk, and they
+captured Constantinople nine years later; after this Servia, Bosnia,
+Albania (on the death of Skenderbeg), and Hercegovina were overrun in
+quick succession. In 1484 Ivan found himself obliged to burn his
+capital of Žabljak, and retire into the more inaccessible mountain
+fastnesses of the Katunska, the district round Cetinje. Cetinje itself
+was chosen by Ivan as his new centre, and though hardly pressed, he
+inflicted many severe defeats upon the Turks. Arrived in his new
+capital, he called his braves together, and told them that if they
+would surrender to the foe, they must find a new Prince, for, as for
+himself, he preferred death. So this little band of warriors, and they
+could not have numbered more than eight thousand fighting men, swore
+to resist this almighty foe to death--not to attack, but to resist. It
+must have been an impressive scene, this compact between Prince and
+people, and later history bears out fully how nobly the descendants of
+these mountain warriors have kept to their oath. For they, alone, of
+all the Balkan states, have successfully repulsed the Turk, who,
+though often seemingly victorious, has returned home with shattered
+armies and full of impotent rage.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF MONTENEGRO.]
+
+In their need they applied to Venice for help, quoting the great
+assistance that they were rendering her in occupying the Turks; but
+the Queen of Cities, who was at that moment occupied in patching up a
+treaty with the Sultan, turned a deaf ear to their entreaties.
+Montenegro found then, for the first time--and all through her history
+she was destined to find the same--that she must fight her battles
+alone. Allies have used her always for their own ends and then
+shamefully deserted her. Yet all through the spirit of indomitable
+courage has never deserted the children of Crnagora, for they could
+never forget the oath which their forefathers had sworn for them.
+
+Ivan, after several great victories, was left to end his days in
+peace. He spent his years well in strengthening the land, both in the
+arts of war and peace. In Obod, which is close to Rijeka, he erected a
+printing press, some twenty years after Caxton had set up his in
+Westminster, and though it was afterwards burnt by the Turks, still
+the remembrance of it remains right glorious in Montenegrin memory.
+
+The last Crnoiević relinquished his home for Venice. He had married a
+Venetian wife, who, among the bleak mountains of the Katunska, was
+pining for the sun and warmth of her native city. But before leaving
+he laid down the lines for a powerful régime. A Prince-Bishop, or
+Vladika, was placed at the head of affairs, but, to help him in his
+difficult task, there was created a second office, that of Civil
+Governor, who was to hold a subordinate position. This office was
+abolished in 1832 by Peter II., on the treachery of the Civil Governor
+Radonić, who was found to have intrigued with the Austrians.
+
+From 1616 to 1696 the Vladikas were elective, and under their
+quarrelsome rule Cetinje was twice burnt and phœnix-like rose again
+from its ashes. The Turkish armies, though partially victorious,
+usually met with disaster and ruin before reaching their own territory
+again; and we read of one notable occasion when Soliman Pasha, with an
+army of 80,000 men, had sacked Cetinje. On his way home he was
+surprised by the two tribes of Kuć and Klementi, and annihilated. But
+as time went on it became necessary from political reasons to change
+the system of government from election to heredity, and the choice
+fell on the Lord of Njeguši Danilo Petrović, whose reign (1696-1735)
+is chiefly memorable for the Montenegrin vespers of the Turks and
+Turkish renegades, who had rendered so much assistance to Kiuprili
+Pasha in one of his terrible invasions. But a crushing defeat of the
+Turks in 1706 gave the land peace for thirty years.
+
+In 1767 an adventurer named Stefan Mali sprang himself upon the land.
+He claimed to be the murdered Peter III. of Russia, and easily imposed
+himself upon the gullible Montenegrin. But he had the interests of
+Montenegro sincerely at heart, and proved an excellent ruler. His
+imposture was exposed by Catherine II., but owing to the weakness of
+the Petrović heir, the people determined to keep him as their ruler.
+He fell a victim to the assassin's knife at the instigation of the
+Pasha of Scutari. His successor, Peter Petrović, the famous St. Peter
+of Montenegrin history, was a firm and courageous ruler, who made his
+influence felt throughout the courts of Europe. Austria, Russia, and
+England did not scruple to avail themselves of his help and then, as
+seems to be the Montenegrin fate, left him in the lurch. He defied the
+armies of the great Napoleon, who came to fear him and his warlike
+clan insomuch that he was even offered terms of friendship. But the
+proud mountaineer would have none of it. He now turned his hand, under
+the influence of Russia, which was then very real, to the
+consolidation of the land, and slept in peace with his fathers.
+
+His successor, Peter II., carried on the struggle with the Turks, who
+proposed an increase of territory and a Turkish title in return for
+the acknowledgment of suzerainty. "As long as my people defend me,"
+was the proud answer, "I need no Turkish title to my throne; if they
+desert me, such a title would avail me little." War was the effect of
+this retort, but the Turks gained nothing by it, and peace was soon
+made.
+
+The danger of the power of Austria came now to be fully recognised.
+After the Napoleonic wars, Austria had retained Cattaro and Spizza,
+and trouble now broke out over some land near Budua. The Montenegrins
+fell upon the Austrians, and fierce conflicts ensued, but Peter, who
+had gained an extraordinary hold over his subjects, forbade them to
+continue. Hostilities, however, continued in a desultory fashion for
+some time.
+
+Peter was followed by Danilo II., a weak ruler, but his reign is
+famous for two events--the cession of the spiritual authority of the
+Prince-Bishop to an Archbishop and the "Great Charter" of Montenegro.
+Danilo's reforms, however, led the Turk again to attack his invincible
+foe, only again to end in great disaster. But in the Crimean War
+Montenegro, greatly to the disgust of the people, did not participate,
+and in the Congress which followed Danilo was offered a Turkish title
+and the hated Turkish protectorate. His willingness to accept this led
+to the formation of a strong opposition party who demanded war.
+Fortune was on their side, and the Turks invaded Montenegro. The
+command fell to Mirko, who from his former exploits had gained the
+name of the "Sword of Montenegro." A battle was fought at Grahovo,
+which will ever live in memory as the Montenegrin Marathon. The Turks
+were completely crushed by a small force of Montenegrins, and peace
+followed. His brief reign was brought to a close at Cattaro, in 1861,
+by an assassin's bullet, and Nicolas, his nephew, reigned in his
+stead.
+
+War broke out again on the Hercegovinian insurrection of the following
+year, the results of which were disastrous in a high degree to
+Montenegro. Even the famous Mirko, the father of Prince Nicolas, after
+sixty battles, could do no more, and the Convention of Scutari (1862)
+brought the war to a close. It was settled that Mirko, as the
+firebrand, must leave the country, and various other clauses appear in
+the Convention, few of which seem to have been strictly adhered to. It
+needed another war to settle the Turco-Montenegrin border.
+
+The land now enjoyed the blessings of peace for fourteen years, which
+included a severe famine and an outbreak of cholera. Help was now,
+however, forthcoming from all sides in the shape of corn and money. In
+1869 it was with great difficulty that the Prince could restrain his
+warlike subjects from aiding the revolted Krivošejans. The Emperor of
+Austria fully recognised the harm which Montenegro could have done
+him, and signalised his thanks by the gift of an Austrian Order. But
+the Montenegrins could not be restrained at the outbreak of the
+Hercegovinian revolt, and flocked to the standards of their brothers.
+The Porte's remonstrances were met with a curt demand for the cession
+of Hercegovina, and Prince Nicolas published at the same time an
+offensive and defensive alliance with Servia.
+
+Immediately after this (1876) he declared war. Success followed his
+arms everywhere. A short armistice was concluded, but nothing further
+came of it, and the war proceeded. The Prince in person stormed the
+town of Nikšić. Podgorica and its fertile plain fell into the hands of
+the conquerors, and then in quick succession Antivari and Dulcigno
+were forced to yield. He was about to commence the siege of Scutari
+when news came of the armistice between Russia and Turkey. The war had
+shown that no deteriorating element had sprung up among the people;
+they had fought as their ancestors had fought before them, and covered
+their name with glory and renown. Montenegro had gained a European
+reputation from this war, and the Porte, bowing to force of
+circumstances, finally recognised her independence. For five weary
+centuries had this struggle continued, and it is owing to the talent
+of their present ruler that the consummation of their hopes has been
+brought about. Free they always have been, but an acknowledgment of
+their freedom has ever been set aside. At last they have attained
+their object. The Turk no longer regards them as an insubordinate
+province, and it is more than likely that their former hatred of the
+Turk will pass away, for they have another enemy, who is pressing at
+their doors on three sides. The terms of the Berlin Congress granted
+to Montenegro Žabljak, Spuž, Podgorica, and Antivari. Dulcigno was to
+be restored to the Turks, and in exchange Gusinje and Plava were to be
+added to Montenegro. But the Albanian communities refused the lordship
+of Montenegro, and Dulcigno was granted to the Prince after a great
+naval demonstration of the Powers in 1880.
+
+The result of this campaign was that Prince Nicolas found his little
+kingdom increased from an area of 2,580 square kilometres, containing
+a population of 178,000 inhabitants, to over 9,000 square kilometres
+and a population of at least 240,000. In the last twenty-five years it
+has increased to quite another 100,000 inhabitants.
+
+War has never again seriously threatened Montenegro, and Prince
+Nicolas has been enabled to devote all his energies to the improvement
+of the land.
+
+There is now no district, however wild and cut off it may be, without
+its school, attendance at which is purely voluntary. Right well have
+the people availed themselves of this chance of education, and a
+sliding scale of school fees permits even the poorest peasant to send
+his son as well as his more wealthy brother.
+
+The teachers have a seminary at Cetinje, which they must first attend,
+and a gymnasium on the German and Austrian system can be visited, for
+those boys who wish to extend their education to an European standard.
+The same boys usually visit some Russian University, occasionally
+Vienna or Belgrade, and return to their native land as doctors,
+engineers, or lawyers, and supply the learned professions.
+
+At Cetinje there is a further High School for Girls, founded by the
+Empress Marie of Russia in 1869.
+
+As the older men have not enjoyed in their youth the advantages of an
+education which is now placed within the reach of all, lecturers are
+sent round the country, and on Sundays, in wild and cut-off districts,
+a man can be seen lecturing to a group of rough mountaineers who are
+listening intently. These Government lecturers teach the shepherds how
+to safeguard their sheep and cattle from disease; the lowland peasants
+are initiated into the mysteries of vine-growing (every Montenegrin
+family must plant a vine and attend to it) and tobacco-planting, and
+general information is given to all.
+
+The Army has been thoroughly reorganised, and is now, thanks to the
+gift of the Czar, armed with the most modern magazine rifle and
+officered by men who undergo a training in the armies of Russia,
+Italy, or France.
+
+The army system is of the simplest. The actual standing army consists
+of one battalion and a force of artillery, but during the year 4,000
+men pass through its ranks and receive a most efficient training. The
+men return to their homes at the end of four months' training, but
+drill weekly continues, on Sundays, till the age limit of sixty is
+reached, when their arms have to be returned to the Government, who
+again serve them out to the next recruit. Thus the recruit comes
+equipped for his four months' training, and takes his arms home with
+him at the conclusion, and is responsible for their good condition.
+Each man receives a certain number of cartridges, for which he must
+always be able to account, so that every able-bodied man is an
+efficient and well-armed soldier capable of taking the field at any
+moment.
+
+The smartest men become non-commissioned officers, and carry the
+insignia of their rank on their caps back to private life, where they
+become again the instructors of the local militia companies. There are
+two classes of commissioned officers--the officer of the standing
+army, trained in a Continental army, and who wears a distinctive
+uniform, and at least one of these is detailed for service in all the
+militia centres; and the militia officer, who receives his training
+with the standing battalion or batteries.
+
+Thus at a preconcerted signal, by trumpet and bonfires at night, and
+in some districts by a salvo of rifles, the whole Montenegrin Army can
+be mobilised at any given spot within the time that the furthest
+detachment can travel to the place of rendezvous. An example of the
+rapidity and ease of this mobilisation was once given to the late
+Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria, at Cetinje, when an army, drawn from
+every part of the country, equipped and ready for the field, was
+assembled within thirty-six hours of the first alarm. There is no
+commissariat, for each soldier supplies his own food, or rather his
+wife will keep him supplied in a lengthy campaign; no cavalry, for
+they are useless; and no heavy artillery.
+
+Law is administered by district courts for the more serious cases,
+with a Supreme Court of Appeal at Cetinje. There are no lawyers or
+costs; each man brings his own case and witnesses in civil matters,
+and criminals are dealt with summarily--that is to say, his district
+captain sends him in chains to Podgorica, where he receives his final
+sentence. The smaller district captains and "kmets," or mayors, have a
+limited amount of jurisdiction, and can inflict punishments, either in
+fines or short terms of imprisonment. They also settle all minor cases
+of dispute.
+
+The central, and soon to be the only, prison is at Podgorica. The
+majority of prisoners are undergoing different sentences, with and
+without chains, for murders in connection with the vendetta, according
+to the circumstances. A man who defends his honour, who kills his
+slanderer, is very lightly punished.
+
+Against only one class of offender does Prince Nicolas exercise his
+autocratic powers, _i.e._ the political offender, with whom he is
+relentless. Such men are thrown into prison, interred in dark cells
+without trial, and can languish till death sets them free. In this
+respect the Prince is harsh, and according to Western ideas barbaric,
+though local circumstances fully excuse his seeming cruelty. The
+smallness of the prison at Podgorica shows more forcibly than anything
+else the remarkable lack of crime in the land. At present (1902)
+dangerous lunatics are confined in the common prison, but an asylum is
+rapidly nearing completion.
+
+The government is autocratic. A senate, composed of the different
+ministers, exists in Cetinje, but all powers are jealously held by the
+Prince. He appoints the ministers and all the higher officials of the
+land, and only recently have the people been granted the right to
+elect the kmets.
+
+Montenegrin engineers now build the roads in place of Austrians and
+Russians, and the difficulties that they meet with and surpass at
+every turn are sufficient evidence of their capabilities. Foreign
+doctors and professors are yearly becoming more rare. In fact,
+Montenegro is rapidly becoming self-supporting and self-educating.
+
+Literature, always in olden times in advance of the surrounding lands,
+is fostered by the Prince, himself a scholar and a poet of no mean
+order. Two weekly papers in Cetinje and Nikšić have a large
+circulation.
+
+Under Prince Nicolas' fatherly care the country improves in a
+wonderful manner from year to year. Roads are planned to connect the
+whole land, which only lack of funds are hindering from completion,
+and a railway is projected to connect the towns of Nikšić, Podgorica,
+and Rijeka with Antivari and the sea.
+
+When Prince Nicolas shall be called to his fathers his son, Prince
+Danilo, will worthily carry on the work so nobly begun by his father,
+for he is a man imbued with the ideas of Western improvements and
+civilisation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+The journey to Montenegro--Arrival in Cattaro--Beauty of the Bocche,
+and the drive to the frontier--First impressions of
+Montenegro--Njeguši--The national troubadours--Arrival in Cetinje.
+
+
+The simplest way of entering the Land of the Black Mountain is _viâ_
+Cattaro in Dalmatia. The sea-trip from Trieste, which takes a little
+over twenty-four hours, is a revelation of beauty, for the Dalmatian
+coast is sadly unknown to the traveller. The journey can also be made
+from Fiume, whence the "Ungaro-Croata" send a good and very frequent
+service of steamers. But the idler should take a slow boat and coast
+lazily down the Dalmatian archipelago, visiting all the smaller towns
+and islands, which the fast line is bound to avoid. It is one of the
+most beautiful sea-trips in Europe, each little port possessing gems
+of old Roman and Venetian architecture, unrivalled, perhaps, in the
+world and set in a perfect framework of lovely country and dancing
+seascape.
+
+It was a glorious morning in May when the _Graf Wurmbrand_, the
+Austrian-Lloyd's fast steamer, left Trieste, bearing us to Cattaro.
+The Gulf of Trieste is very beautiful, for the green hills, all
+dotted with villas, the busy harbour life, the Julian Alps rising up
+majestically far away on the starboard, and directly behind the town,
+gaunt and grey, the naked Karst, of which we were to see so much in
+Montenegro; all made a picture that it would be difficult to forget.
+
+At midday we arrived at Pola. The entrance to the harbour is well
+covered by islands, and on each of these frowns a great fort, some of
+which, however, are so carefully hidden that their locality is only
+betrayed by a flagstaff. A narrow channel leads to the inner harbour,
+Austria's naval dockyard and arsenal. Here are the warships and
+building yards, and away to the left, as a strange and unfitting
+contrast, the Arena, one of the best-preserved specimens of Roman
+work, rises seemingly from amongst the houses. Pola is full of Roman
+remains. All is so green and peaceful, in spite of the countless
+fortifications which render the harbour well-nigh, if not quite,
+impregnable, that Nature and War seem for once to go hand-in-hand.
+
+[Illustration: THE GRAF WURMBRAND IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO]
+
+At twilight Zara looms up into view, and another short stay is made.
+The town turns out _en masse_ for the coming of the _Wurmbrand_ or the
+_Pannonia_--the fast boats from Trieste or Fiume are the events of the
+week. There is no railway here. Unluckily Dalmatia's finest scenery is
+passed in the night. Trau, with its splendid loggias and churches;
+Spalato, with the grandeur of Diocletian's palace, are denied to
+the traveller; Lesina, proudly calling itself the Nice of Austria;
+Curzola, whose mighty Venetian bastions stand out into the sea, and
+many another delightful little town and island, only show a twinkling
+light or two in the darkness as the steamer ploughs by. At daybreak we
+are nearing Gravosa, Ragusa's modern port. As we leave again, and
+round the peninsula of Lapad, glorious in a mass of semi-tropical
+vegetation, Ragusa bursts upon our view. Seen on a sunny morning it is
+a sight for the gods. Built well into the sea on inaccessible cliffs,
+surrounded by lofty walls, with a great hill as a background, it has
+well been called the prettiest bit of Dalmatia. It possesses a
+magnificent winter climate and a good hotel, so that people are
+forsaking the Riviera for this comparatively unknown paradise.
+
+Far too soon Ragusa fades away, and now the approaching mountains grow
+higher and wilder. Those lofty peaks, towering above the others, black
+and forbidding, are Nature's bulwarks of the land which we are
+visiting. It is from a distance that the name "Black Mountain" seems
+so aptly given to this fierce little state, though some historians
+wish to explain the derivation otherwise.
+
+The Bocche (or mouths) di Cattaro, three in number, are a consummate
+blending of the Norwegian fjords and the Swiss lakes, and so lofty and
+steep are the surrounding mountains that the sun can only reach the
+bottom for a few hours at midday.
+
+Away at the end of one fjord lies the village of Risano, an idyllic
+spot, whence a road is in the course of construction to Nikšić. All
+the worthy Bocchese are absolutely Montenegrin in sympathy, and
+Austria has had much trouble with these equally warlike Serbs.
+
+A curious conical hill rises out of the town, a high wall zigzags up
+to the fort above, showing Cattaro's strength of former days. Now, a
+few insignificant mounds of earth far away on the mountain-tops are
+all that is to be seen of the military might of modern Cattaro. Yet
+how powerful are those forts only the Austrian authorities know.
+Cattaro and the Bocche are impregnable from sea or land, though this
+array of strength against land attack seems almost unnecessary, as
+Montenegro possesses no heavy cannon at all. However, Austria is not
+reckoning in this case with Montenegro alone. But these are political
+questions.
+
+We were fortunate in securing a carriage of the Montenegrin post,
+which has good drivers, and what is still better, a fixed tariff, over
+which there can be no dispute. The drivers of Cattaro ask, and often
+get, twice the legal fare from ignorant strangers.
+
+Cattaro affords no comforts to the traveller; more is the pity, as it
+is one of the most magnificent spots in the world. The town itself is
+tiny and a perfect maze of little Venetian streets, in which it is
+easy to lose oneself if it were only larger. To walk upon the Riva and
+gaze upon those precipitous mountains which tower above the town and
+its militarily guarded walls is a sight which at first is hardly to be
+comprehended. It is too stupendous. Such a masterpiece of Nature can
+never tire.
+
+Montenegrins crowd the streets, and the little market is full of
+peasants who have wearily staggered down those steep paths in the
+early dawn with their enormous loads of field produce. Stately men
+wearing the insignia of their rank on their little caps pace up and
+down majestically and contrast strangely with the dapper Austrian
+officers. Their belts yawn suggestively, something is missing to
+complete the attire. It is the revolver, which Austrian law compels
+them to leave behind on entering her land. They are obviously ill at
+ease without that familiar weapon, for ever and anon a hand strays
+unconsciously to the empty belt seeking its wonted resting-place on
+the butt.
+
+Strolling one night on the Riva, we involuntarily held our breath as
+we came in sight of the huge lake, for it is easy to forget that this
+is the Adria. The waters lay unruffled before us, not a ripple
+disturbed those glassy depths which reflected every tree and cottage
+on the opposite bank. Each star found its double twinkling in that
+placid mirror, and mountain frowned back on mountain. It was almost
+unreal, so marvellous was the reflection. Behind us, at the top of the
+great ridge, a silvery effulgence proclaimed the coming of the moon.
+Her brilliant light silhouetted the grim and rocky ridge in startling
+clearness, though it was four thousand feet above us. Through a gap
+rises a peak, round which a filmy cloud had lovingly wrapped itself
+like a lace shawl upon the snowy shoulders of a beautiful woman. We
+took a turn down the quay, and at the end we turned our back on this
+witching view. Hardly had we retraced our steps a few yards when we
+and all our surroundings were bathed in a glorious white light. We
+turned again, and were almost forced to shield our eyes as we gazed on
+the gentle orb which had now surmounted the intervening ridge. The
+whole fjord was now transformed into a sea of silver almost as bright
+as midday. Each nestling village was distinct, even to the tiniest
+window; each tree and shrub on the wall-like mountain, and even the
+grim forts, were softened in that sweet radiance. The little paths
+which zigzag up the hills to the forts above look like great white
+snakes turning and twisting up those rugged cliffs.
+
+At four o'clock on the following morning we made a start, and were
+well up the mountain by the time that the sun began to make his
+presence felt.
+
+[Illustration: THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO]
+
+The high road to Cetinje was built by the Austrians, and it is a
+marvel of engineering skill, particularly the ascent of the almost
+perpendicular wall of mountain rising abruptly from Cattaro. In series
+of serpentines and gradients, which often permit the horses to trot,
+the road winds up and up, every turn giving a still finer view of the
+lake below. Cattaro remains in view practically the whole ascent. The
+view from the top is magnificent and unsurpassed in Europe. The grand
+bays look like miniature glass ponds, fringed with white toy villages,
+and far away in the distance the deep blue Adria sparkles and glitters
+in the sunshine.
+
+Montenegro is entered some little distance from the top, but, as only
+a row of paving stones indicates the spot, it is not till the carriage
+dashes through a rocky gorge and out into the open Karst beyond that
+the traveller realises that he has crossed the border. The sudden
+change is startling, from the blue sea and green valleys to grey
+masses of limestone rock and barren mountains. It is the Katunska, the
+original stronghold of the Montenegrins, within which they defied all
+comers.
+
+At the first house, solidly built of stone, our carriage halted, and
+the driver entered it, emerging with the revolver which he had to
+relinquish on entering Austria. It is a formidable weapon specially
+manufactured in Vienna for Montenegro, a foot and a half long, firing
+an enormous cartridge. The revolver is always worn, by all classes
+alike, and carried loaded by order. The upper classes carry a much
+smaller and handier weapon, but a revolver must be carried by prince
+and peasant alike.
+
+Njeguši is the first town or village reached, and here an hour's rest
+is always made. It is interesting, since it was once the temporary
+capital, and as the home of the Petrović family, the reigning dynasty.
+It lies in a great hollow of fertile ground, and on the southern side
+the historical Lovćen ascends. On the top the great prince and hero,
+Peter II., is buried, and his mausoleum brings large numbers of
+pilgrims yearly.
+
+As our carriage drew up before the little hostelry, a crowd of boys
+were standing in front of a house opposite, which is half telegraph
+office and half school, for economy in buildings is practised in
+Montenegro. They saluted us smartly in military fashion. The born
+soldier is noticed at once, even in the small children; many
+generations of fighting ancestors have bequeathed a smartness and
+accuracy of movement which can be envied by many a Continental trained
+conscript.
+
+The traveller meets with little attention either here or in Cetinje.
+It is not till he gets well off the beaten track that he sees the
+hospitable and courteous Montenegrin as he really is.
+
+[Illustration: NJEGUŠI]
+
+[Illustration: THE GUSLAR]
+
+During our frugal breakfast of raw ham and goat's cheese, our
+ears were assailed by the singing of the guslar, or Montenegrin
+troubadour. The guslars, we noticed, are invariably blind, and as no
+previous musical education seems necessary, it would appear to be a
+monopoly of those so afflicted. Their singing is execrable according
+to Western notions, a range of four or five notes in a wailing minor
+key making up their register, and they accompany themselves on an
+instrument (the gusla) from which they derive their name. It is
+hand-made, resembling a cross between a violin and a mandolin. It
+possesses one string, and is played with a short curved bow. With
+careful handling, a series of discordant notes of wearying monotony
+can be produced. The performance is altogether most doleful.
+
+Yet they are the history books, the legend tellers of the country.
+They fan the fire of patriotism and loyalty by songs of the deeds and
+accomplishments of their Prince, of dead heroes and past glorious
+battles, and form another link with the mediæval world of which the
+traveller is so strongly reminded at every step in Montenegro.
+
+As we left the village we passed the birthplace of Prince Nicolas I.,
+though the palace appears to have been entirely rebuilt. In nearly
+every town or village of importance the Prince has a house, varying
+considerably in size, but of equally unpretentious exterior.
+
+The road still climbs and reaches the maximum height of three thousand
+five hundred feet. From this altitude it steadily drops into Cetinje,
+which lies about two thousand feet above the sea-level. The scenery is
+unvarying, but not without beauty. It is essentially wild, but the
+light colour of the rocks and the numerous shrubs which find a footing
+in the crevices minimise the forbidding character of the country. The
+land is magnificently adapted for guerilla warfare, where every foot
+can be contested. Little patches of earth, washed down the hillsides,
+lie in every hollow, and have been utilised by the careful peasant to
+grow his tiny crops.
+
+After about seven hours' driving, Cetinje appears in sight, at the end
+of a long valley, and completely surrounded by the characteristic
+naked and rugged rocks. The road descends by another series of
+serpentines, and a long straight drive brings us into the town. The
+valley is about four miles long and three-quarters of a mile broad and
+absolutely flat.
+
+The effect is most odd at first sight, a long main street, an open
+market-place, and a few side streets constituting the capital of an
+important European principality. The town, on entering it, bears a
+strong resemblance to a South African township, where, as is the case
+here, space is no object, and the houses are rarely more than one
+story high.
+
+We stayed at the Grand Hotel during our first visit. It is the only
+really good hotel in Montenegro, and in consequence expensive. Here
+all the tourists stay for a night or so during a hasty visit to the
+Crnagora, and it is to be avoided by those who wish to see the
+country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The
+barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our
+departure for Podgorica.
+
+
+There is not much for the tourist to see in Cetinje; a day is quite
+sufficient to do the sights, such as they are.
+
+Unfortunately for the country, the tourist usually contents himself
+with a look round the little capital and returns the way he came to
+Cattaro, only a few prolonging the tour _viâ_ Rijeka to Scutari. Thus
+a very erroneous impression is gained of Montenegro and its people.
+Firstly only a small part of the Katunska is seen, which is the most
+uninteresting district of the whole country; and, secondly, no idea of
+the sturdy inhabitants can be formed from the handful of more or less
+well-to-do officials and merchants, all intimately connected with the
+outside world, round the proximity of Cattaro.
+
+[Illustration: MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY]
+
+[Illustration: THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG]
+
+Cetinje, with its four thousand inhabitants, is simply the residence
+of the Montenegrin Court, it is not even a trading centre, which the
+absence of the Turkish element sufficiently proclaims. It is only the
+question of expense which has hitherto prevented the transference
+of the capital to another site, viz. Nikžić. Cetinje was chosen as the
+capital some hundreds of years ago--1484, to be pedantically
+correct--when a defensible position was the most important factor,
+which even to-day is a point to be reckoned with.
+
+We will first go round "the sights."
+
+It possesses two historical buildings in the monastery and the
+Billard, the rest being all of quite modern origin. The monastery is a
+picturesque pile of grey stone, nestling under a lofty rock, on which
+is perched the identical round tower, or "kula," to give it its local
+name, on which the heads of Turks slain in battle were exhibited on
+spikes. It was not so very long ago that the last grim trophies of war
+graced its battlements. The monastery contains the burying vault of
+the reigning house, and is the residence of the Vladika or Archbishop
+of Montenegro. Prince Nicolas can be found any morning worshipping at
+the tombs of his ancestors by the visitor who is willing to rise at
+daybreak. Very often he is the only "faithful" present with the
+officiating priest at an hour when the sun has hardly peeped over the
+rocky ramparts of the town.
+
+Prince Nicolas, the lord of this warrior nation, is a man of imposing
+stature, so broad-shouldered that his height seems far less than it
+really is, walking with head erect and firm tread and clad in the rich
+national costume. The stranger involuntarily doffs his cap and
+receives in return a short military salute, but accompanied by such a
+piercing glance from a pair of cold grey eyes that he wonders if he is
+not an intruder in the land. This is, however, far from the case.
+Under that austere exterior beats a warm heart and an affability of
+manner to which the lowliest of his peasants will gladly testify.
+Prince Nicolas likes to see visitors to his land, and many are the
+little acts of kindness and courtesy that the traveller receives, all
+unknown, from his hand, for he knows the coming and going of everyone
+who makes a longer stay than usual.
+
+Sixty years ago Prince and Bishop were united in one person, and
+though the Bishop or Vladika has to-day no temporal power, yet in
+spiritual matters he is absolute. A very kindly man is the present
+Vladika, Mitrofanban. By an odd coincidence his was practically the
+first house we visited in Montenegro, and with him we drank our last
+cup of coffee when we left many months later.
+
+The other building is the old palace of the Princes of Montenegro,
+which won its odd name of Billard or Biljar from the fact that a
+former Prince was so addicted to the game of billiards that the
+principal room of the palace was devoted to the game. It is now used
+for State purposes. The upper floors are occupied by the Government
+offices, and at one corner is the Supreme Court of Justice and
+Appeal, whose judgments are only reversible by the Prince himself.
+Further, the school and printing works are to be found within its
+quaint old red-brick walls and bastions.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRINCE'S PALACE]
+
+Opposite to this picturesque old building stands the modern and
+uninteresting one-storied palace of Prince Nicolas. It shows the
+simplicity of his nature in perhaps a more marked degree than anything
+else, for little or no privacy from his people is possible. He walks
+from his house down a short flight of steps into the street. The small
+courtyard at the back is surrounded by a low wall, the entrances
+having no gates.
+
+The recently erected palace of the Crown Prince Danilo, which stands
+on the outskirts of the town, is a somewhat more pretentious building.
+It has a large garden completely walled in, which is at any rate an
+apology for privacy and seclusion.
+
+To obtain a comprehensive view of the town, we climbed a small hill
+immediately above the monastery, on whose summit stands the gilded
+cupola erected to the memory of Danilo Petrović, the Lord of Njeguši,
+founder of the present dynasty. Very pretty the simple little town
+looks from here, its red roofs giving a pleasing touch of colour to
+the otherwise severe landscape of grey rock, dazzling white streets,
+and sparsely vegetated valley.
+
+One afternoon we visited the barracks, which are quite new, and the
+quarters of the battalion of the standing army. The barrack rooms are
+spotlessly clean, and the order and neatness unsurpassed, which,
+together with the smart drilling and superb physique of the soldiers,
+would delight the heart of the severest martinet. Everything connected
+with the military training of the Montenegrins is up to the standard
+of Continental excellence. All the officers undergo a long course of
+training, either in Russia, France, or Italy, and right well have they
+utilised this privilege. No wonder that the warlike Montenegrin drills
+as well as his Continental brother. The standing army wear uniforms,
+and at a distance remind one of our own troops, with their
+tight-fitting, short red jackets and tiny caps.
+
+[Illustration: _Monastery Billard Prince's Palace_ GENERAL VIEW OF THE
+CETINJE]
+
+Other conspicuous buildings are the theatre, where performances are
+given in the winter in the Serb language and where Prince Nicolas'
+famous drama, _The Empress of the Balkans_, was first performed; the
+house of the Austro-Hungarian Minister, which is the best in
+Cetinje,[1] and the hospital. It is the only hospital in Montenegro,
+and is used almost solely for serious surgical operations. Here Prince
+Mirko, the second son of Prince Nicolas, spends much of his time, for
+his tastes run to bacteriology, and his skill with the microscope is
+acknowledged. He is also a musician of no mean order, and the march
+which he composed in honour of the city of Rome, and which was
+performed there under the leadership of Mascagni, will be in the
+memory of all. He has none of the tastes of his elder brother, who,
+true to the traditions of his country, is a mighty hunter, and whose
+prowess with rifle, gun, and revolver is acclaimed by the people who
+understand these gifts better.
+
+[Footnote 1: The Russian Minister has now an equally imposing
+edifice.]
+
+By far the most interesting episode of our sojourn in Cetinje was a
+visit to the prison, which we were enabled to do with our camera, by
+the kindness of the Minister of Justice. It was the first time in the
+annals of Montenegro that strangers had been allowed to take
+photographs in a prison.
+
+At the appointed hour we approached the plain building, surrounded by
+no wall of any kind, which does duty as the prison. It is soon to be
+done away with, and all the prisoners will be transferred to the
+central prison at Podgorica. Smiling warders welcomed us and conducted
+us to their living-room, barely furnished and with an array of
+revolvers--the property of the prisoners--hanging on the walls. A
+female prisoner prepared us coffee, and while we were sipping the
+inevitable beverage a glance through the window showed us men busily
+sweeping the courtyard of the prison.
+
+First of all a warder showed us the fetters--heavy, cumbersome irons,
+which are riveted to one or both ankles, according to the sentence.
+But it is only in exceptional cases of aggravated crime that this
+severer sentence is meted out to the offender. Then we were conducted
+by the main and only entrance into the courtyard, two sides of which
+contain the cells of the prisoners. These gentlemen rose with alacrity
+to their feet as we entered, evidently much pleased at the honour of
+our visit. Only three men were chained, and of these one remained
+moodily seated, staring indifferently on the ground before him. He
+formed such a contrast to his fellow-prisoners' smiling faces that we
+observed him closer, noticing that his clothes were such as the
+officials and better class wear.
+
+"Who is he?" I asked.
+
+"A Government clerk convicted of embezzlement," was the answer. "Six
+weeks in chains is his sentence."
+
+"And what have the other criminals done?" was our next query.
+
+"Oh, they have mostly quarrelled amongst themselves. They are not
+criminals. We have very few thieves and robbers in Montenegro. This
+youth," went on our informant, pointing to a young man with a pleasant
+face, and who grinned with joy as he noticed the attention with which
+we favoured him, "has a ten years' sentence for quarrelling."
+
+"But quarrelling," we repeated. "Is it punishable to _quarrel_?"
+
+"Yes, too many lives are lost," was the laconic reply.
+
+"Oh," we exclaimed, a light breaking in upon us, "you mean murder!
+They are all murderers?"
+
+"We have no murderers," came the indignant response. "Our land is as
+safe from murder as any other in the world. No one kills to rob or
+steal in Montenegro. But we just quarrel amongst ourselves. We are
+hot-blooded and shoot quickly, that is all."
+
+P. and I looked at each other, but neither of us felt inclined to
+venture any further remarks; so we examined a dark cell with interest,
+without furniture or light, and one of six used for the worst kind of
+offender, viz. the political. They were all untenanted. We had all
+crowded inside, our warders as well, and as we emerged again into the
+strong light, I noticed the gate wide open and no visible guard.
+
+"You have left the gate open!" exclaimed P., as he saw it.
+
+Our warders laughed. Afterwards we understood.
+
+Then we inspected a common cell, where about a dozen men sleep. Each
+man brings his own bedding and nicknacks, with which he decorates the
+wall above his bed and makes the place as much like home as possible.
+Loss of liberty is the only real punishment, and even that is not
+carried to an excess. The Prince has said that the restraint that they
+suffer is enough, and thus the prisoners have comparatively free
+intercourse with the outside world, plenty to eat, and on festivals
+wine and even spirits and a dance with their friends outside. This
+latter scene we witnessed some time afterwards on another visit to
+Cetinje. The only real severity is the chains, but these sturdy
+mountaineers soon accustom themselves to these thirty-pound trinkets,
+and when photographed take good care to arrange them tastefully and
+prominently. When we lined them up for a picture, we demanded a front
+place for the chained men, to their intense delight and the chagrin of
+the others who cast envious glances at their more favoured brethren.
+No doubt in that moment the unchained men wished they had gone just a
+little further in their "quarrel."
+
+After a pleasant half-hour with these quarrelsome gentlemen, we went
+round to the ladies who occupy a wing of the prison, with all windows
+and doors facing outwards on to the open ground. Again no fence or
+wall marked a limit to their prison, and they walk in and out of their
+cells at leisure. However, there is a boundary marked out by posts and
+trees, beyond which they may not go. As we appeared they were sitting
+about, singly and in groups, knitting peacefully in the warm sunshine.
+We again inspected their quarters, and learnt that the odd score of
+women represented the total crime of the land.
+
+[Illustration: THE FEMALE PRISONERS]
+
+A blushing and gratified array of staid matrons and coquettish girls
+faced the camera, again only one young maiden of fifteen or sixteen
+showing any sense of shame, and she fled into her cell, only to be
+ruthlessly ordered out by a warder.
+
+Soon afterwards we took our leave, and as we crossed the small
+unenclosed square before the men's prison we found it crowded by the
+late inmates of the courtyard, walking merrily up and down or chatting
+with friends on the outskirts, over which neither party may step. Only
+the dismal clanking of a chain here and there proclaimed to the casual
+observer the fact that they were prisoners. Lithe, active, and
+athletic men, none of whom fear death, and guarded by four warders in
+the loosest possible fashion, yet they never attempt a dash for
+freedom up the rocky slope which reaches down to their very promenade
+ground. Flight would entail their escaping from their country
+altogether, never to return, and that no Montenegrin has ever been
+known to do. Even though they work for years in strange lands, they
+invariably return to their rugged native mountains and end their days
+in peace. And so they serve their time in patience, and go home at the
+expiry of the sentence "without a stain on their character."
+
+Many months afterwards we chanced to arrive in Cetinje on the occasion
+of a great feast. A stranger happened to be with us, a German, and we
+were showing him the sights. Naturally we also wended our way to the
+prison, hoping to be able to give him the unique spectacle of the
+prisoners strolling freely up and down their garden. As we neared the
+square sounds of singing and music assailed our ears, and in front of
+the women's quarters a large ring was swaying to and fro in the
+national dance termed "kolo." Men and women were performing together,
+otherwise the sexes are kept severely apart, while others sat around
+in groups partaking of wine and food which their friends or relations
+had brought them, and they all sat chatting and laughing together as
+though this were their natural state of existence.
+
+"The prisoners," I said, pointing to the dancers.
+
+"Nonsense," said the German.
+
+"Come nearer and listen," I answered, for even I had my doubts for the
+moment; but my ear had caught the clanking of chains above the wild
+music.
+
+They were the prisoners right enough, and many of the men moved
+heavily and awkwardly to the slow rhythm of the motion. It is not easy
+to dance with such ornaments as are provided free and gratis by the
+paternal Prince to curb an exuberance of spirits.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRISONERS DANCING]
+
+A great trial that the photographer has to undergo, be he professional
+or a strolling amateur, is the immediate demand for the picture. The
+mysteries of dark rooms and developing are not to be lightly
+explained, and the refusal to show the picture, for which the vain
+Montenegrins have so willingly stood, is accounted churlish. They are
+only appeased with a promise of a picture a few weeks later. Their
+names and addresses are hurriedly scribbled and handed with many
+peremptory requests for the picture to be sent as soon as possible.
+
+Just before we left Cetinje, on our way to Podgorica, during our first
+visit, a bowing and deeply humble individual accosted us in the hotel.
+When he had straightened himself up a bit, and we could see his face,
+we recognised one of the prison warders. After many expressions of
+sorrow for disturbing us, we gathered that on the occasion of our
+visit to the prison only three of the four warders had been present.
+The fourth--and it would appear the head warder--had arrived after our
+departure, and learning of the photographs and his omission, had made
+things a bit hot for his three favoured confrères. Therefore would we
+of our goodness come and photograph him, and thus make life worth
+living again? Would we restore the peace and harmony of that little
+community?
+
+With sorrow we declined, our carriage awaited us, and the day was hot.
+Some other time, we said. And with that uncertain comfort he was
+forced to be content.
+
+"But," he said, "the money which you have so generously given us and
+the prisoners has been expended on 'raki' (local spirits). We and the
+prisoners will pray for your souls for many nights ere we sleep."
+
+As we drove up the ascent from the town towards our new destination,
+we glanced back at the red-roofed little capital and noticed the low,
+grey stone building of the prison.
+
+"We ought to sleep well to-night," remarked P., nodding towards it.
+
+It is something to be prayed for, even if only by criminals of the
+quarrelsome type.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The
+market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside
+hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Morača--The Vizier bridge--Old
+war-marks--First and last impressions of Podgorica.
+
+
+The drive from Cetinje to Rijeka, and from thence till the final
+descent to Podgorica, is quite as fine as any other part of
+Montenegro. For about twenty minutes after leaving Cetinje the road
+climbs and attains its greatest altitude on this tour, and at its
+highest point--only half an hour's walk from the town--possesses one
+of the most striking and beautiful views. It is rightly called "Bella
+Vista," and a shelter hut and chairs are thoughtfully provided for the
+visitor.
+
+A wonderful panorama meets his eye as he suddenly reaches the top. A
+fantastic sea, as it were, of hills, like the waves of a storm-tossed
+ocean, encircles him, and at his feet, green and wooded, lies a long
+fertile valley. Stretching far away into the gates of distance in its
+vast expanse, glitters the Lake of Scutari. Round a small dim spur of
+land running into the lake, lies Scutari itself, which is, however,
+not visible. To the left a forbidding chain of magnificent mountains,
+dwarfing the intervening hills into insignificance, fascinate him by
+their repellent grandeur. Snow-clad, except in the height of summer,
+these mountains seem symbolical of the land they border, that savage
+and unknown Albania. A glimpse of a green valley below can just be
+caught, there lies Podgorica, our destination. At our feet a long,
+low-lying plateau ends abruptly in a wall of rock, through which the
+road vanishes, and which can be traced white and threadlike on the
+overhanging hillside. Beyond is the valley and town of Rijeka. The
+mountains to the right are the Rumija, behind whose naked comb is the
+deep blue Adria, and which we must climb to reach the port of
+Antivari. The lake is dotted at the near end with islands,
+distinguishable amongst which is a conical-shaped hill crowned by a
+fortress. That is Žabljak, the whilom capital of Crnagora, and home of
+its ancient rulers, the Black Prince dynasty. The whole view is like a
+map in bas-relief.
+
+Gone now are the barren rocks and sparsely vegetated hills of the
+Katunska, and we are now in the fertile middle zone of Mediterranean
+vegetation, which includes the valley of the Zeta right up to Nikšić.
+
+As we careered along, we were closely followed by another carriage,
+in which were crowded five Montenegrins and Albanians, who were
+evidently bent on making the pace. The Montenegrins are ever reckless
+drivers; they dash round sharp corners at full gallop, with a
+precipice of several hundred feet below--and there is never sufficient
+parapet to prevent a carriage dashing over--so that one involuntarily
+leans to the inner side of the carriage with that uncomfortable
+sinking feeling which can be experienced at sea. With a shout to warn
+anybody coming up the hill, the driver cracks his whip and dashes
+round each corner with a sublime indifference to danger.
+
+Whenever we slackened, our pursuing carriage came up at a rush, and
+its occupants emitted wild yells and vociferated polite requests to
+pass. Off we tore again, and at last reached that point where the
+descent begins in serpentines to Rijeka. When we were tearing along a
+lower level of the road, but a few yards below our rivals, we noticed
+with momentary misgivings that they had drawn their long revolvers and
+were holding them in their hands.
+
+Suddenly they began to fire, for no apparent reason, which habit is
+apt to be startling to a nervous traveller on his first journey. But
+our youthful driver let fly an answering shot; on inquiring he told us
+that it was to encourage the horses. Afterwards we never rode or drove
+any distance in the country without our revolvers, so that we too
+might help in the encouragement.
+
+That afternoon Rijeka presented a brilliant picture. On entering the
+town hundreds of peasants were congregated round the cattle-market on
+the outskirts, but it was on the broad street by the river bank that
+the most animated scene was to be witnessed. Every Montenegrin town
+should be seen on a market day, for then the peasants from far and
+near, in their best clothes and rifles over their shoulders, flock to
+the town with cattle and sheep and field produce. Rifles are usually
+carried when going on a long journey, particularly in the vicinity of
+Albania. This is partly as a sign of allegiance to their Prince, but
+chiefly because Montenegro stands ever before a sudden mobilisation.
+Should the soldier peasant hear the alarm, he must make his way at
+once for the rendezvous as speedily as possible, without détour.
+Further, hundreds of armed Albanians from the borders are always in
+their midst, as was the case to-day.
+
+Rijeka is a very busy little place, being the half-way village between
+the capital and Podgorica, and is still more important as the
+starting-point of the little steamer which plies twice weekly down the
+lake to Scutari. The river runs between lovely green hills rising
+straight from its banks, wooded and luxuriant, reminding one not a
+little of the Thames at Cookham.
+
+The Prince has a small palace just beyond the town, and spends the
+coldest winter months here, where he escapes the rigours of the
+climate in Cetinje. About half-an-hour's walk is the ancient fortress
+of Obod, famed in history as the site of the first printing-press
+(destroyed very soon by the Turks) in the Balkans, and indeed one of
+the first in the world, for Caxton was only a few years ahead. The
+fact speaks for the ever forward striving spirit which has animated
+Montenegro's rulers since its very foundation, and which only the
+rigours of pitiless warfare have hindered.
+
+On leaving the pretty little township, we had considerable difficulty
+in forcing our way through the flocks which continually blocked the
+road. All the way we ploughed through herds of cattle and stampeding
+sheep and goats, much to the disgust of their shepherds. These men,
+chiefly vicious-looking Albanians, with loosely-slung rifle, and round
+their waist a bandolier of cartridges, lend a wildness to the lonely
+road which is likely to mislead the new-comer; and should one of them
+empty his revolver light-heartedly in the air, to be answered by
+another some distance away, the impression is considerably heightened.
+
+The road climbs to a good height immediately and commands a fine view
+of the valley with the little river winding in and out. In winter the
+effect is that of a great flood, for everywhere partially submerged
+trees and bushes show above the water. But in reality it was only a
+natural course of events, for in summer the water recedes and leaves
+great fields on which crops of maize are grown, while during the
+winter or rainy months the whole district of fertile land becomes
+again submerged. This view of the Rijeka was decidedly one of the
+prettiest in the country, combining, as it does every now and then,
+glimpses of the lake and the majestic Albanian Alps.
+
+Always followed by our rival party, we halted at a wayside inn to
+refresh both man and beast. These inns are quaint little places. There
+is seldom any other floor than that already provided by Nature, which
+has been beaten flat.
+
+We called for coffee, and partook of the country's wine, to whose
+acidity we never accustomed ourselves, and entered into conversation
+with our convivial companions. One, a horse dealer, spoke excellent
+Italian, and we met him often afterwards in the course of our travels.
+
+When we had finished our libations, we naturally wished to have the
+bill or rather to know how much there was to pay.
+
+"Nothing," was the answer.
+
+"But we have had ----" It is not well to particularise--it was a
+thirsty day.
+
+"There is nothing to pay," the woman reiterated.
+
+The other party had guiltily slipped out of the room and climbed into
+their carriage, and our driver became impatient to maintain the lead.
+With mixed feelings we followed him out, and in another second were
+off again at a gallop.
+
+It was always like that in Montenegro. We have gone into an inn or
+café and drunk a liqueur (a polite name for the fiery but wholesome
+local spirit), when a fresh glass will be silently placed before us.
+We have waved it away.
+
+"Not ordered it," we would say.
+
+"That man has," answers the boy, and points at a smiling Montenegrin
+on the other side of the room. Sometimes, and very often too, other
+guests follow suit, and the result is trying. We gave up visits to
+cafés afterwards, except when we were on pleasure bent and had an hour
+to spare. Hospitable, reckless, poverty-stricken Montenegrins--one can
+travel far before another such a race can be found.
+
+The last two hours of the drive are uninteresting, chiefly because
+eight hours in a carriage is trying. Podgorica comes in sight long
+before it is reached, in the form of a cluster of trees on a grassy
+but dead-level plain, out of which two minarets show their graceful
+spires. The background is imposing, lowering Albanian mountains rise
+abruptly to their lofty heights from the level of the plain.
+
+For an hour we drove along the plain, and passed a solitary building
+situated on a slight eminence. It was Kruševac, one of the Prince's
+country palaces, or, to be more correct, Prince Mirko's palace, as
+"Voivoda" or Duke of the Zeta, which ancient and historical title is
+his. Then for some distance we skirted the Morača, driving in an
+opposite direction to Podgorica till we came to the "Vizier" bridge,
+over which we crossed and retraced our way to the town.
+
+The River Morača is a large mountain torrent, into which the Zeta
+flows only a short distance away from the town. It rushes over great
+boulders, forming here and there formidable rapids, between two deep
+banks, which, without any warning, break off suddenly from the flat
+and form precipitous sides fully two hundred feet deep. Two or three
+hundred yards away, no gap or break in the plain is observable.
+Sometimes the river swells almost to the top of its banks, and then
+the effect must be terrible. There is a ford near Podgorica, which the
+peasants use to avoid the long détour by the bridge, but woe to the
+man who makes a false step. Three women, carrying loads of wood, lost
+their footing during our stay, and were drowned. In its waters we swam
+every evening, and even in midsummer, when the river is low, the
+strength of the current required an expert and powerful swimmer to
+breast it, and it was invariably very cold.
+
+[Illustration: THE VIZIER BRIDGE]
+
+The bridge, built by an old Turkish Vizier many, many years ago, is
+most picturesque, and completely in keeping with the rocky banks and
+the foam-flecked, emerald-green waters rushing beneath. From this
+bridge a man once sprang into the depths below, to show that he was
+not intoxicated. As a matter of fact he was, but he emerged dripping a
+hundred yards lower down, unhurt and at least in his right mind.
+
+There used to be a deep indentation in a stone of the bridge
+parapet--during our stay in the country it has been plastered
+up--which credulous Montenegrins relate to be the cut of a Turkish
+horseman pursuing a fleeing Montenegrin. The story goes that the Turk
+severed the Montenegrin's head from his body, and so violent was the
+stroke that he cut into the stone wall as well.
+
+Again, just before the town, two slabs, standing exactly thirty paces
+apart, mark a similar episode, and the headless man is said to have
+run that distance before falling. This legend--which, furthermore, has
+many eye-witnesses still living in the town who swear to the truth--is
+more capable of belief if one takes into consideration the flight of a
+decapitated fowl in any of our poultry yards.
+
+The road entering Podgorica is very similar in appearance to that
+which leads into Cetinje, only the first impressions are considerably
+wilder and more uncivilised than that of the capital. Hundreds of
+Turks and Albanians are smoking their evening "tchibouque" in the
+streets, and scowl in no friendly manner at the stranger. Some of
+them, namely, the merchant class, are, however, excellent people,
+travelled and educated, as we found out afterwards. The Albanian and
+Turk are the enterprising merchants of Montenegro, and improve on
+acquaintance, which is sometimes necessary.
+
+We had a lonely, solitary feeling as we drove through the crowd of
+loiterers, and were glad to descend at a presentable-looking hostelry.
+How often first impressions are wrong we proved to the full in this
+instance.
+
+Podgorica saw more of us than any other town during our stay, for we
+made it afterwards our headquarters. It would be difficult to forget
+that mountain-bounded valley and the town with its bustling streets of
+picturesque humanity. And then those sunsets! The peaks towering
+behind bathed in crimson, and the intervening hills rising one above
+the other to the furthermost summits like a giant staircase, rich in a
+mysterious purple. As we walked back from our evening swim, over the
+short, springing grass, that scene at sunset never abated its charms
+one whit. And we were always glad on entering the town that no one
+wore plain, ugly European clothes but ourselves. The national
+costumes, so full of colour, blended harmoniously with our feelings,
+and have left behind them an indelible picture.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in
+Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The prison and its
+inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The modern town--The market
+and the armed buyers--The Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin
+methods of doing business.
+
+[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA]
+
+
+If it were not for the dangerous proximity of the Albanian border,
+Podgorica would have been made the capital of Montenegro. It is
+favourably situated for a trade centre, and, owing to this fact, has
+naturally gathered a large population (the largest in Montenegro),
+approaching ten thousand. Lying on a rich and fertile plain, within
+easy reach of the Lake of Scutari, and connected by good roads with
+Cetinje and Nikšić, it is within market distance, so to speak, of
+Kolašin and Andrijevica. From these districts, and from the Albanian
+borders, the people flock in crowds, and the Podgorican market is by
+far the most important in the country. But--and it is a big "but"--in
+this case the Albanian frontier is only an hour's walk away, and it
+would never do to risk the persons of the Royal Family and the
+Ministers in a sudden Albanian raid, and troubles and disturbances are
+of everyday occurrence.
+
+We made Podgorica our headquarters during our sojourn in the land of
+the Black Mountain mainly for its central position, but also for the
+opportunity afforded us there for studying Montenegrin life.
+
+It would be difficult to forget our first visit to the town. It was
+Easter Sunday evening when we arrived at the Hotel Europa, and after
+seeing our luggage carried in, started out on a tour of inspection,
+and also to present our letter of introduction to Dr. S., the
+veterinary surgeon of Montenegro. We had not got more than fifty yards
+from the hotel when we were forced to beat a hasty and ignominious
+retreat. At Eastertide, which is one of the biggest feasts in the
+Greek Church, beggars, halt and maim, blind and tattered, pour into
+all the larger towns of the country. They come from Turkey, Albania,
+Bosnia, and Dalmatia--in fact, from everywhere within reach--and make
+a rich harvest, for the Montenegrin opens his heart, his hand, and his
+house at Easter. In our innocence we imagined this to be the normal
+state of affairs in Montenegro, and were greatly cast down.
+
+But our worthy host armed himself with a big stick, and we sallied
+forth again under his guidance. Even then it was no joke, and the
+house of Dr. S. came as a haven of refuge. Anyone who has been in the
+East knows what an amount of persistency and endurance the Oriental
+beggar possesses.
+
+[Illustration: THE RIBNICA]
+
+We were received as old friends and welcomed to the Easter table,
+which was set, as in any other Montenegrin house at this season, for
+anyone and everyone who has the remotest claims of acquaintanceship.
+
+Several men were present, to whom we were at once introduced; amongst
+others a canny Scotchman, the only Britisher living permanently in the
+country. We were a cosmopolitan gathering. There was Dr. S., a
+Roumanian, an Austrian ornithologist, a Scotchman, our innkeeper was a
+Macedonian, and two or three Montenegrins. From that evening date many
+of the pleasant friendships which we made in Montenegro.
+
+The next day our newly-made friends showed us Podgorica. It is divided
+into two distinct parts--the old, or Turkish town, and the new
+Montenegrin town, which dates from the conquest of 1877. The two
+halves are separated by the River Ribnica, which flows in a deep bed
+before the crumbling walls of the Turkish quarter. At one angle of the
+town the Ribnica enters the Morača, Montenegro's biggest and most
+important river.
+
+Most picturesque is the old Turkish quarter, still surrounded by the
+same bastions and walls which not so long ago defied the Montenegrin
+army. But the houses, as well as the walls, are fast falling to ruin;
+for at the order of the Prince the market has been removed to the
+other side, and, in comparison with the new town, there are few
+inhabitants left. The fortifications still bear witness to the fierce
+struggle which took place before them, and one bastion was breached
+more successfully than ever Montenegrin cannon had done, by lightning,
+during the bombardment. Many of the older inhabitants, as well as the
+walls, show traces of the former conflict, a noseless man being no
+great curiosity.
+
+Not for nothing has the Montenegrin won his fame as one of the
+fiercest fighters in the world. He was never outdone in atrocities by
+his enemies. It was the rule of war (and is now, to a great extent) to
+either behead one's prisoner on the spot, or, if the day had been
+exceptionally heavy, and more heads could not be carried conveniently,
+noses were taken instead. Perhaps the phrase "to count noses"
+originated in these lands. However, it usually ended the same, for the
+noseless man would, as a rule, bleed to death; but some have lived
+through it, and can be met with anywhere in Montenegro or Albania.
+
+Many fierce fights took place in and about Podgorica, and the ghastly
+picture of victorious Montenegrins at the conclusion of an affray,
+sitting in groups, each with a small or large heap of heads and noses
+before him, "counting the bag," has many eye-witnesses still living.
+
+In the Turkish town lies the prison, soon to be the only one in
+Montenegro. A new wing is rapidly nearing completion to accommodate
+the female prisoners, who are at present incarcerated in Cetinje. We
+visited the director that Easter Monday morning, and were received
+unofficially in his quarters. We always had great fun with that man--a
+pompous individual filled to overflowing with the importance of his
+position, and, not unlike men similarly afflicted, most aggressively
+stupid.
+
+As a great favour, and after our united persuasion, he allowed us at
+last to look from a window overlooking the courtyard of the prison. As
+in Cetinje, the prisoners walk without let or hindrance in the
+spacious walled-in courts before their cell doors. Being Easter no man
+was chained, a privilege they owe to the Prince, who always releases
+the prisoners from their fetters during the great festivals; one
+wretched individual, however, we noticed more heavily manacled than
+even a murderer of the worst kind. He was, we were informed, a
+dangerous madman, though, poor devil, he looked harmless enough,
+slouching round and round the yard. The primitive custom of confining
+dangerous lunatics (for the harmless are allowed their full liberty
+outside) in the common prison is soon to be done away with. A large
+lunatic asylum is rapidly nearing completion near Danilovgrad--another
+memorial of Prince Nicolas' improvements.
+
+The prisoners were sleek and fat--those imprisoned for long terms or
+for life bearing witness of the good treatment which they receive at
+the hands of the authorities. One youngish man in particular
+attracted our attention, a merry laughing fellow whose girth had
+reached alarming proportions. He was imprisoned for life, and his
+crime, which sat so lightly upon him, had been a particularly
+atrocious and dastardly murder for plunder--a crime practically
+unknown in Montenegro.
+
+Imprisonment is more real here than in Cetinje. There is none of that
+delightful promenading up and down before the prison walls, hours
+pleasantly whiled away with a friendly visitor from afar over a pint
+of wine. The only glimpse of the outside world that these prisoners
+obtain is when a few of them fetch water daily from a well outside the
+walls.
+
+As we gazed upon the strange scene from the window above, of prisoners
+and warders amicably chatting together, others squatting in groups
+over a harmless game, a horrible voice disturbed the serenity of the
+picture. Then at a closely barred window a face appeared, with matted
+hair and long unkempt beard. It was the face of a madman; with
+terrible curses he filled the air, and we looked inquiringly at our
+cicerone.
+
+"That man is a political offender," came the answer. "For fifteen
+years he has waited his trial, and now he has become hopelessly
+insane. Many years ago he endeavoured to stir up a revolution against
+the Prince, and fled to Vienna, where he carried on his treasonable
+propaganda. But he was enticed back, and thrown into solitary
+confinement such as those who are traitors to their Prince receive.
+For an hour every day these prisoners are allowed to walk in the yard,
+but this man from the first refused to avail himself of the privilege,
+and now he has become what you see."
+
+"Will he never regain his freedom?" we asked.
+
+A shrug of the shoulders was all that our guide vouchsafed, and with
+that awful voice ringing in our ears we were glad to turn away.
+
+Two mosques still exist, and are in use, for the Turkish population is
+fairly large, though owing to recent events rapidly diminishing, but
+the Prince does everything in his power to cultivate a friendly
+feeling with the Mahometans. His country is the asylum for the
+persecuted Turk as well as the fugitive from justice, and, if his
+crime is political, he will be warmly welcomed.
+
+But, Woman again has upset the best of intentions, and within a year
+four elopements of Turkish girls from their homes with Montenegrins
+have taken place in Podgorica. These girls have been baptised and
+married to their Christian lovers. A worse insult to the Mahometan
+faith does not exist. But of this more anon.
+
+The modern town is painfully plain and uninteresting. Montenegrins
+have no knowledge or love of architecture. Each house is built
+solidly of stone, square and undecorated. Even the palaces of the
+Royal Family are of puritanical simplicity externally.
+
+There are the law courts, post and telegraph offices, and
+police-station all in one, a school, and a market-place, with a very
+ugly memorial to the fallen Montenegrins in the last war. Otherwise,
+the town is laid out with broad streets, all planted with trees,
+exactly like a South African township.
+
+Building plots are free, the only obligation to the owner being that
+he must run up the outside walls of the house at once. The roof and
+internal work can be completed at leisure. A large part of the town
+consists of mere shells of houses, the owners waiting for the means of
+completion.
+
+Some little distance from the town, across the Morača, is the Prince's
+palace of Kruševac, which he occasionally visits. It stands quite
+alone on a slight eminence.
+
+The view round Podgorica is one of the most fascinating features of
+the place. It is one of those perfect views which never tire, and
+always present some new beauty, and the armed rough men in their
+brightly coloured and novel costumes are in complete unison with the
+picture. These national costumes seem so absolutely fitting to
+Montenegro that the otherwise plain and uninteresting buildings of
+the town are turned merely into a background for the ever-moving
+stream of colour. The Turkish bazaars with their gaudy wares hung out
+into the street, the red-jacketed Montenegrin, the Turk in pure white,
+the Scutarines in their distinct and original costume, and the
+Albanians who flock in hundreds to the market in coarse white serge,
+heavily bordered with black braiding, rifles over their shoulders and
+a bandolier round their waists, make a never-ending picture. We never
+wearied of wandering about the streets on market days. Then the town
+is filled to overflowing with a multi-coloured crowd, and every man
+from a distance brings his rifle.
+
+How odd it looked at first to see an Albanian with perhaps a
+shilling's-worth of field produce spread out before him, and at his
+side a rifle loaded and cocked; or, again, a Montenegrin boy of
+perhaps fourteen, with his rifle across his knee! To keep order in
+this formidably armed crowd of men, many animated with the fiercest
+racial and religious hatred of each other, are some dozen Montenegrin
+gendarmes, armed, as is every Montenegrin, with but a heavy revolver.
+
+Deadly enemies meet on the market-place, men standing in blood feud
+with one another, and speak, often expressing a fervent prayer soon to
+be able to put a bullet into the other at the first opportunity,
+but--outside the town. Podgorica is mutually held as neutral
+territory, and is very rarely violated. This is strange where men fear
+not death.
+
+But, outside, perhaps but half an hour from the outskirts of the town,
+these men will meet and shoot and kill; for murder, or sudden death,
+to use their euphemistic way of looking at matters, is by no means
+uncommon.
+
+There is a great tract of land about an hour's ride from Podgorica
+characteristically called the "Crna Zemlja" or Black Earth. It is
+neutral, lying between Montenegro and Albania, and the man who sets
+his foot on it carries his life in his hands. Men who know, say that
+every inch is soaked in blood. It is overlooked by some small hills
+from Albania, and is covered with long pampas grass, affording good
+cover for a man, and they shoot there for love of killing.
+
+But to return to Eastertide.
+
+It is a good time to visit Montenegro for first impressions. The
+Montenegrin outdoes himself in open-handed hospitality; every house is
+open, and everyone visits his neighbour. The best chamber in the
+house, as often as not the only living-room among the poorer classes,
+is set out with all the good things the owner possesses. On the table
+stand meat, eggs, bread, wine, and spirits; and it is a grievous
+insult to leave that room without tasting, and tasting liberally, of
+all. This lasts three days, and it is more than enough.
+
+And we were particularly honoured, being Englishmen and strangers: one
+might say we were painfully honoured. What quantities we were forced
+to eat and drink! At one house, that of a poor man, who lived with his
+wife in a tiny room, we were presented with a bottle of Munich beer,
+his greatest treasure, given him once by a friend who had travelled.
+He doubtless considered it a luxury of a priceless kind, and it cut us
+to the heart to drink that man's beer. But we had to; he took no
+denial, barely tasting it himself.
+
+We might have stood it fairly well were it not for those eggs,
+hard-boiled Easter eggs, the shells coloured red or blue. This
+institution is a positive torture to the unfortunate digestion, which
+suffers untold torments at Eastertide.
+
+There is a game played with these hard-boiled eggs which reminds one
+forcibly of schooldays. Two men each select an egg, and one, holding
+his egg firmly, allows the other to endeavour to crack it, only the
+pointed ends being used.
+
+But this harmless if childish custom once led to a vendetta. A man
+once cracked such an enormous quantity of eggs, that in the evening he
+was challenged to show his marvellous egg, which he persistently
+refused to do. This led to words and words to revolvers, and the man
+was shot. Then the egg was found to be a clever imitation in stone.
+
+Though Podgorica is the trading centre of Montenegro, business is not
+carried on in the same brisk way as in other lands.
+
+We once wished to send a parcel of feathers home, and went accordingly
+to the post office. It was towards evening then, and we were informed
+that the postmaster was "not at home," and were asked to come next
+day. The following morning we again visited the post office, when the
+contents were carefully noted, and long lists filled out which took
+roughly about half an hour; at the end of which time a head was thrust
+out of the window, asking us to call in about an hour and pay. This
+was because no post-office clerk is allowed to receive money; he is
+strangely enough not always honest, and the postmaster was again out.
+At the end of the hour we returned and paid.
+
+Another time I tendered a gulden in payment of a telegram, and had to
+wait a quarter of an hour while a boy was sent into the town to obtain
+change.
+
+In matters of business it is well to possess one's soul in patience. A
+more unbusinesslike set of people is hard to be found, yet in driving
+a bargain they are remarkably shrewd, to put it kindly.
+
+Even in such trivial matters as purchasing a hen no indecent hurry is
+shown. Such a transaction may take days. For instance, you wish to buy
+a hen, and signify the same to a man, and he will say--
+
+"I have a hen which I can sell thee, but it will break my heart. Such
+a hen, and such eggs! I feel I cannot part with her."
+
+"Very well," you say; "don't make yourself miserable; I'll buy one
+somewhere else."
+
+"But give me till to-morrow. It is too sudden."
+
+And he goes away. If you are not in a hurry, it does not matter and
+you wait. It is amusing.
+
+Next day he will come again and say that he has another hen nearly as
+good as the first, but, as he loves you and respects you, he will part
+with his beloved hen at a consideration, and names a price far beyond
+its worth. You refuse, and state your price for the _good_ hen, the
+ordinary market price, which he indignantly refuses and departs. In a
+few hours he will come again, bringing a hen which, almost with tears,
+he tells you is _the_ hen--his beloved hen.
+
+"Take her," he says, "as a present."
+
+Whereupon you press upon him the market price, which of course he
+takes, and the matter is finished.
+
+Such little episodes are trying at first. The Montenegrin loves
+money--it is his curse, or rather the curse of every country on the
+brink of civilisation--but he also loves to play the gentleman, who
+hates sordid money transactions. He will often make you a present and
+afterwards send in an extortionate bill.
+
+But, usually, you make him a monetary present _at once_, which he
+takes with thanks, at your own price.
+
+If it were not for money, what an ideal race the Montenegrins would
+be! But then that is the same with a good many people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and heroism--His part in Montenegrin
+history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The death
+dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The
+hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuž--A typical country inn and a
+meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea.
+
+
+During our repeated sojourns in Podgorica we made several excursions
+to places of interest in the neighbourhood, chief amongst which was a
+visit to Medun, Voivoda Marko Drekalović's grave.
+
+Medun lies in the heart of the mountains, about four hours' ride from
+Podgorica, and is the capital (if one can apply such a high-sounding
+name to a ruined fortress and two or three houses) of the Kuć. The Kuć
+is a large province inhabited by one of the most warlike tribes of
+Montenegro, and only recently came under its rule, though their
+sympathies were never with their Turkish rulers. The fact that it
+borders on Albania is significant, and accounts for its fighting
+qualities.
+
+Voivoda Marko was largely instrumental in bringing about the last war
+with Turkey, which was so successful to Montenegro, when the Kuć,
+Podgorica, Nikšić, the entire provinces of East Montenegro, the Brda,
+and the sea-coast from Antivari to Dulcigno were won and confirmed to
+Montenegro.
+
+The famous battle of Fundina was won by Marko and his tribe alone
+against an overwhelming Turkish army before war had been officially
+declared with Montenegro.
+
+Beginning life as a shepherd boy, Marko ended his days as Voivoda (or
+Duke), and his name is famed in many a song and beloved by the
+Montenegrins as one of their greatest heroes. Many were the stories of
+his reckless bravery, which one of his relations told us. Before he
+had reached the age of twenty he had killed many Turks in single
+encounter, and was in consequence outlawed. He lived for some years in
+the mountain fastnesses of his land, and together with a handful of
+adventurers, who had cast in their lot with his, made descent after
+descent on any bands of Turkish soldiers that happened to pass through
+his domain. His fame soon reached the ears of Prince Nicolas, who sent
+for him and placed him for some years in his bodyguard--that _corps
+d'élite_ of the Montenegrins.
+
+At the age of twenty-five he returned home and harassed the Turks to
+such an extent that he could not show himself openly by daylight. Like
+another and more famous outlaw in the days of the kings of Israel, all
+those that were bitter of soul came down unto him, and he became
+captain over them. By night he descended upon the Turks wherever he
+could find them, and made great slaughter among them. The Governor of
+Podgorica, then Turkish, Yussuf Mučič by name, offered a large sum of
+money for his head, but no one could be found willing to meet that
+terrible man whom legend and story had endowed with supernatural
+powers. Finally, a criminal consented to attempt the deed on the
+promise of his liberty, and this led to one of the most incredible
+episodes in Marko's life. The criminal lay in wait for him on a lonely
+part of the road near Rijeka, and as Marko was passing along he
+stepped suddenly on to the road pistol in hand. Marko in no way
+attempted defence, but simply transfixed the man with a glance. The
+wretched man in an ecstasy of terror shot himself, so penetrating was
+the glance which the Voivoda had given him. So runs the story. Suffice
+it to remark that Marko arrived safe and sound the same evening in
+Cetinje, and a dead criminal was found on the next day by the
+roadside. Now Yussuf, the Governor, was himself a soldier of some
+repute, and when he heard of the failure of his messenger he
+boastfully expressed a desire to meet the celebrated Marko in single
+combat. On this challenge being reported to him Marko rode off on a
+half-tamed steed at midday into the heart of Podgorica, and reined up
+before the Pasha's house. In fear and trembling the Turks hastily
+closed their bazaars and houses as that fearful horseman galloped
+through their streets. In a loud voice Marko cried--
+
+"I am here, Yussuf, to answer thy challenge. Wilt thou now come out
+and fight with me?"
+
+But fear filled the heart of the craven Turk, and he sent a woman to
+the window to say that he was away from home. Marko knew this to be a
+lie, and cried so that all should hear him that henceforth the
+challenge was annulled. "I do not fight with cowards," he said, and
+again galloped away unmolested.
+
+Such was the power that superstition had weaved around his person that
+he was commonly believed to be invulnerable, which belief was
+afterwards belied by the fact that he carried two bullets with him to
+the grave.
+
+After this public insult to Yussuf, it was known that he would spare
+no pains to take Marko's life, and a touching episode is told of the
+love which Marko's tribe bore to him. His people were ever ready to
+sacrifice their lives for him, and in this instance it was deemed
+necessary to remove the obnoxious Pasha. Accordingly a cousin of Marko
+journeyed to the Podgorican market with a pistol concealed in a load
+of wood. He lay in wait before Yussuf's house and shot him down as he
+emerged. The Turkish populace literally cut him to pieces--a fate
+which the devoted man well knew would befall him.
+
+This and other events led up to the attack made by the Turkish troops
+on the tribe of Kuć, when, at Fundina, Marko and his small tribe smote
+the Moslems hip and thigh. The rest is a matter of history. He had
+died but a few months before our visit, and by his last wish was
+buried in the little fortress of Medun, which many years ago he had
+stormed at the head of a handful of men under circumstances of great
+bravery.
+
+The ride thither gave us our first taste of the mountains. Rough,
+stony paths through rocky ravines, sometimes skirting deep precipices,
+and all round the intensely wild and magnificent mountains, led us to
+the great gorge where Medun is situated. Perched on a seemingly
+inaccessible crag, stands the famous ruined fortress, and at its foot
+Marko's house.
+
+We were made welcome by his widow, a regal woman of middle age, and
+still strikingly handsome. Her dead husband was not only a great hero,
+but a poet and historian, and one of the most remarkable features of
+his life was that, at the age of forty, he taught himself to write,
+and made his name famous as well in the Serb literary world. He had
+always treated her as his companion, and not as the average
+Montenegrin treats a woman--as a being of inferior quality and a
+better class of servant. Marko had a wonderful character; a great
+athlete, perfect rifle-shot, and a military warrior and leader of men,
+he brought home during his campaigns over one hundred Turkish heads;
+but he was also a refined gentleman, a true poet, and merciful to his
+enemies. He was a notable exception in the matter of prisoners--he
+always let them go unharmed, sometimes escorting them himself to a
+place of safety.
+
+Our visit gave much gratification to his widow, who was pleased that
+strangers from such a distant land should wish to visit her husband's
+grave, and she was hospitality itself.
+
+After a rest and food in her house, she conducted us herself up the
+steep winding path to the grave. We came abruptly upon a small plateau
+in front of a tiny chapel. The scene was striking in the extreme.
+There was the grave, with a rough pile of stones at the head, on which
+were placed the dead man's "handjar," revolver and sword, and many
+wreaths. Two lighted candles were flickering in the wind, and in a
+semicircle stood a group of rough, fully-armed mountaineers, the
+retainers of the Voivoda. It was stormy, and great gusts of wind and
+rain dashed round the rocky fortress, and in the distance a rugged
+pile of mountain peaks towered up into the descending mist.
+
+The widow left us, and, kneeling at the grave, quietly kissed the cold
+stones, praying for a few moments in deep silence. Not a man spoke or
+moved as we stood with bared heads and waited. Slowly rising, she came
+to us and led us into the chapel, a bare shell, not even furnished
+with an altar, and with the original earthen floor.
+
+"My beloved husband wished to be buried in here," said the widow, "but
+it was not allowed. The Prince wished him to be buried in Podgorica,
+as he was never courtier and was so beloved and honoured by his
+people--more than the Prince himself. But my husband called me to his
+side, and with his last breath made me swear to bury him in this
+chapel, or at least in front of it. And when the order came that he
+should be buried below, I swore to shoot myself on his grave, and the
+men of Kuć swore to take his body up here, even if they had to fight
+every inch of the way. So it was allowed that he should be buried
+here, but we shall bury him in the chapel, for that I promised him as
+he died."
+
+And she took my hand solemnly in hers, illustrating her oath to the
+dying man, and I shivered in that gloomy chamber as her impassioned
+voice echoed in its arches.
+
+Suddenly a wailing of women broke upon the utter silence which ensued,
+and nearer and nearer came that weird singing as it approached the
+summit. The women were chanting Marko's death dirge. At last, as they
+passed the little window, we went outside and saw four women,
+dishevelled and weeping, approach the grave, kneeling on one side. The
+widow left us again and knelt alone opposite.
+
+One woman only sang at a time, a series of extempore verses telling of
+the life and deeds of the hero--his accomplishments and goodness--in
+the poetical language of this wild people.
+
+"Oh, thou grey falcon, who was so mighty a hunter as thou?"
+
+"Who indeed shall now wield thy bloodstained sword?"
+
+"Oh, thou wolf, who is worthy to take thy place as our ruler and
+father?"
+
+And the others beat their breasts and tore their hair, wailing in a
+wild unison, until the singer was exhausted and then another began.
+
+Here and there a deep sob broke from a man, but otherwise the ring of
+men with bowed heads remained in dead silence and immovable as the
+rocks around them.
+
+It was one of the most impressive scenes it has been our fortune to
+witness, but we were glad when the widow rose and conducted us back to
+the house. Some letters and poems of the Voivoda were shown to us, and
+one of the letters to a friend then present in the room was read
+aloud. The great rough Montenegrin was so touched at hearing the words
+of his master and lord, that he turned away his head and sobbed. All
+this time the women ceased not with their wild lamentations, and even
+after we took our leave and started on our rough ride home in
+pouring rain, that death dirge followed us, echoing in the ravines
+and mountains.
+
+[Illustration: THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN]
+
+Since then we have often heard the death dirge sung in Montenegro.
+Sometimes in a house in passing; again, an old woman trudging to
+market will sing the death dirge of a relation, perhaps dead many
+years. But we never heard those piercing, wailing notes without having
+the picture of Medun recalled vividly to our memory.
+
+When a man dies he is laid out in the sitting-room, and all the
+friends and relations are summoned. Then the men enter the room singly
+and approach the corpse. Tearing open their shirts they beat
+themselves with their fists on their naked breasts, often tearing the
+flesh with their nails, and give vent to ear-piercing wails. Each
+new-comer strives to outdo his predecessor in excesses, and horrible
+scenes ensue. But the Prince discountenances this custom, and it is
+slowly dying out, but only in the upper classes.
+
+We often took our rifles and went out into the country for a little
+target practice, and always succeeded in attracting a group of
+spectators from adjacent villages or huts. Towards Albania we were
+requested not to go for shooting, as the noise of rifle-shots is apt
+to mislead the surrounding villagers. Even when shooting in other
+directions, we were carefully warned not to fire rapidly, but to shoot
+slowly and deliberately, as at target practice.
+
+Rapid firing is "the alarm," and would mobilise a brigade of infantry
+within an hour or two.
+
+On one occasion we were shooting at a somewhat difficult object about
+one hundred and fifty yards away. We were trying to hit it, standing,
+and had not succeeded. A group of some twenty men had collected, and
+they soon began to make facetious remarks. One offered to bring the
+target nearer. Another said he would stand target for a few shots--we
+shouldn't hit him. So we gave one or two of them our rifles and told
+them to hit it. Immediately they selected stones as rests, and lay
+down for their shot.
+
+"Ah," said we, "we can do that; shoot as we do, standing, and without
+a rest."
+
+"That," they said, "is not shooting--who shoots like that in war?"
+
+But we were inexorable, and needless to say they failed to hit
+anywhere near.
+
+The Montenegrins are good shots enough, if they can take long and
+deliberate aim, steadying their rifles on walls or rocks, but
+otherwise they are miserable marksmen.
+
+Quite close to Podgorica there lives a hermit, a wonderful man who has
+hewn out of the living rock a tiny chapel, a store-room, and a passage
+leading to the chapel. He has only just completed it, and we inscribed
+our names in his new book as his first visitors.
+
+[Illustration: VOIVODA MARKO]
+
+[Illustration: SIMEON POPOVIĆ AND HIS CHAPEL]
+
+The hermit, a priest of most refined manners and appearance, named
+Simeon Popović, was most delighted at our visit. He spoke Russian and
+French fluently; his story is quite a little romance.
+
+Before he took Orders he had been a soldier, and was a rich man. It
+was while he was absent on a campaign that his wife eloped and his
+relations robbed him of all his money. He returned home to find
+himself wifeless, dishonoured, and a beggar. Then he became a priest,
+and a vision appeared to him, showing him Daibabe, where he now lives,
+commanding him to go and build a church. He refused the offer of a
+rich priorship and came to this place, possessed of no means whatever
+wherewith to commence his life's work. Unable to buy building
+materials, he began to hollow out a church from the rock, without help
+or money of any kind, beyond that given him by the pious but direly
+poor peasants of the neighbourhood. The labour must have been immense,
+but there it stands a monument to man's perseverance and faith.
+
+Simeon is reckoned as a saint by the peasants; they come to him from
+all parts of the country, bringing their sick, and many cures are said
+to have been effected there. He is a vegetarian, and subsists solely
+on the products of his little garden.
+
+Spuž lies on the River Zeta, and must be reached by a bridge. It is
+always safer to dismount when crossing a Montenegrin bridge, off the
+main roads. This was no exception, but the scenery was delightful.
+Rising immediately at the back of the village is a steep hill crowned
+by a mighty fortress. It was held formerly by the Turks, and the
+peasants say that it was built by them; but the architecture is
+distinctly Venetian and an exact counterpart of many fortresses in
+Dalmatia.
+
+It is strange, however, for there are no records that the Venetians
+ever came further inland than Scutari.
+
+The inn at Spuž, where we dined, was as other country inns (or krćma,
+or han, as they are locally termed from the Turkish): earthen floor, a
+bench, a few primitive stools and beds in the only reception-room. The
+table is invariably rickety, so are the stools; but a tablecloth,
+knives and forks are always mysteriously produced for guests even in
+the most out-of-the-way places.
+
+While our repast was being prepared we had a revolver shooting
+competition outside the door, to which the whole village flocked. One
+of the men made a very fine shot from his saddle at a tree-stump in
+the river, about two hundred and fifty yards away, and _hit_ within a
+few feet. It proved the accuracy and carrying distance of the
+Montenegrin revolver.
+
+[Illustration: SPUŽ]
+
+After our meal, consisting of raw ham, eggs (oh, those everlasting
+eggs!), and a peculiar and nondescript kind of meat, about which we
+asked no questions, the village captain called on us and bore us off
+to his house for coffee.
+
+This man, a Turkish renegade, was one of the most interesting men whom
+we met. He was a marvellous talker--in fact, he never stopped during
+our visit. How the subject came up has passed my memory, but suddenly
+he rushed out of the room and brought back a handful of little medals.
+
+"Look," he said, "each medal represents a human life, a head. We have
+these given us for every head we bring back in war. Do you think I am
+proud of them, and there are more than fifty? No, I weep when I see
+them. When I had seized my foe by his hair preparatory to cutting off
+his head, a vision of his mother, his wife, and his sisters appeared
+before me, and I could have wept as I struck off his head. Why should
+I kill this man? I asked myself. I know him not, he has done me no
+harm, yet because it is war, arranged by princes and kings, we must
+become murderers. And why should I kill him? because others would
+misconstrue my act of mercy if I did it not, and brand me a coward,
+aye and worse, a traitor. Why should _I_ make that mother childless?
+why must _I_ rob that loving wife of her husband? Why _I_ be the means
+of making those little children fatherless and orphans?"
+
+I confess the picture that he conjured up of solemnly and with
+streaming eyes cutting off his enemies' heads--and he had owned to
+over fifty--as he thought of destitute homes and weeping women and
+children, seemed decidedly tragi-comic; but the old man was earnest
+enough, and was quite unconscious of the grim humour of the situation.
+
+"Why," he went on, excitedly pacing the room, "why do not the German
+Emperor and the King of England fight out their quarrels _alone_? Why
+drag thousands of men from their homes and farms to fight _their_
+quarrels?"
+
+Again the idea of our King fighting a solemn duel, with perhaps
+Maxims, over a question of an island in the Pacific, with the German
+Emperor, while admiring millions looked on and applauded, caused a
+smile which we with difficulty repressed from diplomatic reasons.
+
+He took his scimitar now in his hand.
+
+"Look, too, at the generals," he said excitedly, "directing battles
+from safe places, while hundreds of innocent lives are thrown away in
+an assault which that general has ordered from his place of safety.
+Once," he went on--"I was fighting for the Turks then, and commanded a
+body of soldiers--a general came to me, saying, 'Storm that hill,' and
+I answered, 'No; thou art our leader, lead us to the assault.' And he
+refused, saying, 'How can I direct the battle if I lead this
+attack--who shall take my place if I fall?' And I drew my sword"--and
+here he suited his action to his words--"and said I would kill him if
+he did not take his true position as leader of men and lead us to the
+attack--then I and my men would follow wherever he went. And the
+general, who was a brave man, led us to the assault and fell--but we
+took the hill and the battle was won."
+
+It was strange talk to hear from such a man, little better than a
+savage, yet unlike any of his adopted countrymen. That man in a
+civilised country would have made himself known and even celebrated.
+
+Not far from Podgorica, at the junction of the rivers Morača and Zeta,
+lie the remains of the once famous Dioclea or Dukla, as it is locally
+called. The town is of Roman origin, and was surrounded by a complete
+moat, which the Romans formed by digging a channel between the rivers.
+It must have been a place of immense strength in the olden days, but
+successive generations of warfare, which raged so pitilessly in this
+district, have levelled it to the ground, and to-day little or nothing
+can be seen from the adjoining roadway. On approaching there is also
+very little to be seen, here and there a wall, and small fragments of
+mosaic floors. Coins and other relics are still found in large
+quantities, and it seems a pity that excavation, which could do so
+much, has been only carried on in a very halting and desultory manner.
+Legend and history relate that the famous Roman Emperor Diocletian was
+born here, and gave his name to the town. The district of Dioclea,
+which was one of the seven confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius
+to repel the attacks of the Avars, is in reality the germ of modern
+Montenegro.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baćo, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated
+nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The
+priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica.
+
+
+One market day, walking through the streets of Podgorica, we overheard
+a strange conversation. A Montenegrin Turk was sitting on a stone,
+when two Albanians approached him. Touching his revolver, one of the
+Albanians said--
+
+"Sooner than own the whole of Montenegro, would I empty _this_ into
+thy body."
+
+The Turk, a small man, with slightly grey hair, looked up, and said
+indifferently--
+
+"And thy desire is mine."
+
+So they separated.
+
+Almost immediately an acquaintance joined us, and we asked him the
+meaning.
+
+"That man," said he, "is the famous Achmet Uiko. A terrible man, who
+has killed many men, and at the present moment there is an enormous
+sum of money on his head in Albania."
+
+We then went to him, and asked him to come to our hotel to-morrow, and
+to tell us the story of his life. He consented readily, saying that
+he would be with us at nine next morning, "if," he added
+significantly, "nothing occurred to detain him."
+
+It happened that evening that an Englishman arrived on a short tour
+through the country, believing firmly that everything was as safe and
+as orderly as the average stranger thinks. A Turkish girl had been
+abducted from her home shortly before, and the town was in a state of
+great excitement, as it was the second case within the last few weeks.
+A rising of the Turkish inhabitants was feared nightly, and the house
+where the girl was confined--previous to her marriage with her
+Montenegrin lover--was carefully guarded by a score of armed
+Montenegrins.
+
+We took the Englishman to this house, and as we were showing him the
+men with rifles around the doors and windows, we heard sounds of a
+sharp rifle fire some distance away on the border. Not long afterwards
+a Montenegrin doubled into the town with a report that heavy firing
+had been taking place at the village of Dinoš. Nothing further came of
+it, but our countryman went to bed with other ideas of Montenegro.
+
+We awaited Achmet next morning, but at nine he had not arrived, and we
+began to wonder, as the hours went by, if his fate had at last
+overtaken him. But at noon he turned up, as quiet and self-possessed
+as yesterday, and excused himself in the following way. The Albanians
+who had expressed such murderous desires upon him yesterday at the
+market lived in Dinoš, and he had spent the night in emptying his
+magazine rifle repeatedly into their village.
+
+"To show these dogs," he concluded, "that they cannot express such
+wishes to me with impunity."
+
+His story, which is given shortly here, was taken down from his lips,
+but it is impossible to reproduce the man's quaint phraseology. He
+spoke in an indifferent way, and detailed all the circumstances in a
+most matter-of-fact manner and without the faintest trace of boasting.
+
+He was born in Podgorica, then Turkish, and at fifteen fought in his
+first battle, killing three men. At seventeen he had a fight in the
+town, and was forced to flee to Scutari, where, shortly afterwards, he
+entered the Turkish service as a gendarme. He took unto himself a
+wife, but finding her faithless, he laid a trap to catch her and her
+lover together, when he killed them both. After this Achmet returned
+to Podgorica, where he was at once seized and imprisoned for his
+original offence, but he soon broke out and fled to the Albanian
+mountains. Here he lived as a robber until things began to get too hot
+for him, and he fled to Bosnia. In Bosnia he was the guest of a Serb,
+who befriended him, and when a Turk seduced his benefactor's wife, he
+killed the Turk to show his gratitude, and again was forced to flee
+the country. He next turned up in Antivari, where he was promptly
+imprisoned, but he overpowered the warder, took his rifle, and again
+escaped.
+
+At this time the town captain of Dulcigno had been murdered, in
+revenge for a deadly insult, by a young Kuć, named Jovan, and Achmet
+was sent for, on the promise of pardon if he would follow Jovan into
+Albania and kill him. This he did, bringing Jovan's head with him as
+evidence. For this he received a large reward, and the Prince of
+Montenegro, having heard of him and his deeds, sent for him, pardoning
+all his previous offences, besides giving him one hundred napoleons.
+
+Achmet now settled down at his present home near Podgorica, but was
+caught by the Turks and imprisoned on a false charge for four months,
+when he was able to prove an alibi.
+
+Achmet fought in many border fights with the Montenegrins against the
+Albanians and distinguished himself greatly. Two Albanians once
+attacked the son of a famous standard-bearer, whose life he saved,
+capturing the assailants alive and bringing them into Podgorica. For
+this act the Prince gave him an old fortress for his home, and where
+he still lives.
+
+Later on Jovan's brother, whom he had killed near Dulcigno, came early
+one morning to Achmet and fired at him; but Achmet caught him, and
+again brought his prisoner alive into the town, where he received ten
+years' imprisonment. These deeds are all the more remarkable as he
+brought his captures alive and delivered them over to justice. It is,
+firstly, not customary to take men alive; secondly, the feat is of
+extreme difficulty, for men fight to a finish in these lands.
+
+Achmet is known to disappear periodically for several weeks, but of
+these affairs he would say nothing. But the most striking and romantic
+episode of this marvellous man's life has yet to be told.
+
+Recently he was caught by his now arch enemies, the Turks, and
+imprisoned in the powerful fortress of Tusi, a few miles from
+Podgorica. Not content with putting on the usual extremely heavy
+chains, they added to their prisoner a second set of fetters. But
+friends smuggled into his possession a file, concealed in a loaf of
+bread. He filed through his chains, and the day previous to his escape
+he noticed a lot of straw bedding lying at the foot of the fortress
+walls. That night he completed the filing of the fetters, broke open
+the cell-door, and rushing through the sleeping soldiers he jumped the
+wall, landing without hurt on the pile of straw bedding below. Though
+fired at and pursued, he escaped unhurt.
+
+We heard many such stories, but the story of Achmet was certainly the
+best, and these men do not lie. As the man took his leave, he gave us
+a pressing invitation to visit his fortress home in the mountains.
+
+"I will slaughter my best lamb," he added, as a special inducement.
+
+There was another highly interesting personality living in Podgorica,
+an ex-Albanian chief and refugee from his country, named Sokol Bačo.
+This fine old fellow, standing well over six feet, looked fifty
+instead of his sixty-five years, and had an equally interesting past.
+As a youth he had fought in many battles for the Turks, and was
+eventually selected with five other young men of high standing for the
+personal bodyguard of the Sultan. While on leave, which he was
+spending in his Albanian home, the order came for the disarming of the
+whole of Albania. Sokol's tribe refused, as did most of these warlike
+clans, though Sokol advised obedience. But his clan remained obdurate,
+and he was placed in the awkward predicament of being either
+considered a traitor by his countrymen or by his Sovereign. Sokol
+threw in his lot with his clan, and led them in battle against a
+Turkish force; but though he fought like a lion, the clan were
+defeated, and he was forced to fly. For many years Sokol lived in the
+Albanian mountains, half robber and wholly patriot; but the pursuit
+became too keen, and he came to Podgorica, where he entered the
+service of Prince Nicolas. His new Prince he serves loyally, and is
+highly esteemed in Montenegro, where he will doubtless end his
+days.
+
+[Illustration: ACHMET UIKO]
+
+[Illustration: SOKOL BAČO]
+
+While still comparatively new to the country, we once went for a
+week's shooting to the Lake of Scutari. Water-fowl abound there in
+marvellous numbers, consisting chiefly of crane, heron, thousands of
+duck, and a fair number of pelicans.
+
+We had selected the island of Vranjina for our headquarters, known in
+history as the site of a famous treaty signed there between the
+Montenegrins and Venetians in the first half of the fifteenth century.
+It lies at the north or Montenegrin end of the lake.
+
+As we were given to understand that we could drive to the lake, or at
+least to the River Morača, and thence take boat to the island, we
+loaded our carriage with ample luggage. With our guide's usual and
+admirable mismanagement, we were landed after a two hours' drive on
+the banks of the Morača, unable to get further without the carriage
+toppling down a steep bank into the rapid river. The driver
+unceremoniously bundled our traps on to the ground and drove happily
+off. The only person in sight was a diminutive girl, whom the guide
+promptly impressed into our service, and an appalling load was heaped
+upon her. Then a small boy appeared, and so we were able to make
+another start. The day was exceedingly hot, but we got some shooting
+to make up for it. We crossed the river in a crazy ferry, found some
+men, and later on a boat, and reached the famous village of Žabljak
+about one o'clock. The village is still overlooked by a formidable
+fortress, but in the rude collection of huts it was hard to see the
+ancient capital of Montenegro, the home of the famous Black Prince
+dynasty.
+
+One of the most wretched inns that it was our lot to find in
+Montenegro received us and our baggage. The village of course turned
+out to inspect us, and watched us eat our meal with interest. It was
+of the usual kind, consisting of eggs, raw ham, eggs, and dessert of
+_more_ hard-boiled eggs, washed down with a remarkably sour wine.
+
+After this repast we retired for a short nap into the room beyond. P.
+was tired and got on one bed, but I, displaying more caution, lifted
+the pillow before I trusted myself to the arms of Morpheus. My
+fore-sight was rewarded better than I deserved, and I had P. off his
+bed in the twinkling of an eye. As an explanation which his
+threatening attitude demanded at once, I silently lifted his pillow.
+It likewise teemed with life, and we postponed our post-prandial
+slumbers till a more fitting occasion.
+
+At the foot of the village the Morača flowed past, now a formidable
+and swiftly running river. We were amused to see several oxen driven
+into it, and swim serenely to the opposite bank.
+
+Only one small canoe could be found for us, which would ordinarily
+hold one man besides the two paddlers, with comfort. Into it were
+crowded three men and a quantity of baggage. In addition, it leaked,
+and periodically we were turned out on to a muddy and marshy bank
+while the canoe was bailed out.
+
+This end of the lake is very curious, a series of natural canals run
+in all directions through vast swamps which only afford foothold in
+the height of summer. The thrifty peasants utilise the dry season to
+plant fields of maize, for the scorching sun dries these swamps in a
+very short space of time. In the winter or early spring, they are
+nearly or quite under water. As the lake is reached, small islands of
+dense willow trees grow out of the water, and in these islands are
+vast colonies of waterfowl. The effect is decidedly pretty, but very
+irritating to the sportsman, as the birds hide in the centre, and it
+is nearly impossible to force one's way in, even by wading.
+
+We reached our destination, a little chapel with a house for the
+priest adjoining it, locally termed a "manastir," built on a rather
+high and conical hill on the south end of the island of Vranjina. The
+view from the chapel, as we afterwards found, was superb. The whole
+lake spreads out in its vast expanse. Scutari, or rather the hill
+behind which it lies, can be seen dimly in the distance. To the right,
+the Lovćen and the Rumija rear their lofty heads, and divide the lake
+from the Adria beyond. Away to the left the rugged snow-clad Albanian
+Alps stretch as far as the eye can see, piling themselves up in a wild
+and grand confusion. Several green submerged willow islands lay at our
+feet, round which crowds of snow-white cranes were circling. Such was
+our view as we reached the plateau in front of the chapel that
+evening, tired, hungry, and irritated, but still appreciative.
+
+The priest, or "pop," clad in the national costume, as indeed are all
+the country clergy, and only distinguishable from his wild-looking
+parishioners by his uncut hair and beard (the Greek Church do not
+allow their ministers to cut their hair or beards), met us in a
+friendly manner, but absolutely refused to take us in at first. He
+said he had absolutely nothing in the house but a little goat's
+cheese, and no beds. However, we were desperate; to go to the village
+meant another hour's cramp in the canoe, and perhaps no better
+accommodation than here. Here we would stay, and starve.
+
+By dint of much persuasion, the priest produced a mattress, and a man
+was sent down to the village to procure anything that he could find,
+and so we stayed in the monastery a week, and really enjoyed
+ourselves. We used to go out shooting at daybreak in canoes with two
+paddles apiece, and again in the evening, for the heat was
+overpowering about midday.
+
+[Illustration: THE POP OF VRANJINA]
+
+[Illustration: AN ALBANIAN GIRL]
+
+The method of fishing here is distinctly interesting. A large number
+are required to work the net, but they make enormous hauls. The
+procedure is as follows: One large boat is anchored near the shore and
+made fast to trees, and a huge net is taken out and spread in a
+circle, the ends being kept in the stationary boat. Two men, naked,
+stand a few feet from the boat in the water, keeping the sides of the
+net down and preventing the escape of fish as the circle is gradually
+narrowed by the men in the boat slowly pulling it in. The last bit
+requires their united efforts, for it is full of fish, some of
+considerable size. At the conclusion of the "haul" one of the men
+chose two of the largest fish and threw them into my canoe as a
+present; as thanks I lent my tobacco-tin, which they gratefully
+emptied.
+
+Montenegrins carry tobacco in a tin and roll their own cigarettes; no
+other form of smoking is known amongst them, except the tchibouque by
+some of the older men, a relic of Turkish times. The tobacco is
+excellent, being often equal to the best Turkish, and ridiculously
+cheap.
+
+We owe these worthy fisherfolk thanks for having given us one of the
+finest moonlight effects that it has ever been our lot to witness. We
+were returning home late one evening in our canoes, and as we rounded
+a corner of the island we came suddenly on their encampment. The men
+in their ragged but artistic costumes were sitting round numerous
+camp-fires cooking their evening meal on the bank, which sloped gently
+upwards, an old ruined fortress or "kula" forming a background.
+
+As we gazed the moon came slowly over the brow of the intervening
+hill, illuminating the scene with its soft and silvery radiance,
+blending fantastically with the ruddy flames of the fires.
+Cooking-pots steamed and bubbled, and one group of men broke into an
+old Montenegrin fighting song, the water of the vast lake sparkled and
+danced in the distance, and we felt that only we and this rough group
+of fishermen were alive in the world.
+
+It was an idyllic life that we led during our stay at Vranjina, though
+every comfort known to civilisation was lacking. We lived as did the
+hardy fishermen of the island, and a hard life it proved to be. The
+heat, however, was something tremendous, quite precluding any exertion
+from ten in the morning till the late afternoon. We had even in the
+early morning to use the greatest care to keep our necks and arms
+covered from the scorching rays of the sun, for bad blisters and burns
+were the sure reward of carelessness. The concussion of rapid shooting
+combined with the heat often brought on headaches so violent that to
+fire another cartridge was exquisite torture. One thing we did not
+suffer from, and that was loneliness.
+
+The news of our visit spread to all the neighbouring villages, and we
+had a constant stream of visitors. Our swim, which we took after our
+early morning shoot in a delightfully cool spot, where a spring
+bubbled into the lake, was invariably witnessed by a group of
+fishermen, and very much amused they were too over our hair-brushes,
+soap, and other toilet articles.
+
+They sometimes ascribed powers of healing to us, and were evidently
+quite distressed when we endeavoured to impress upon them our entire
+ignorance of medicine. Once a man insisted on baring his leg and
+showing me a horrible wound which would not heal.
+
+Another time the school was marched out from the village of Vranjina,
+probably to have an object-lesson in geography. Doubtless the boys,
+after having seen real live Englishmen, would henceforth display an
+intelligent interest in the position of the British Isles. They came
+and spent a morning with us, and the young teacher, who spoke good
+Italian, asked us many questions, such as a young child asks his
+father, and equally difficult at times to answer.
+
+Our messing arrangements were of the simplest, raw ham and eggs
+forming the staple food. We bought a lamb once, but it only lasted one
+meal, as everyone developed an extraordinary appetite--the parson,
+Lazo our servant, and all the men in the vicinity.
+
+When we left we had the blessing of our worthy priest and fervent
+invitations to return again soon from some of the fishermen. One of
+the men took a great fancy to us, urging us to come to his house in
+Vranjina then and there, and "we would," he said, "drink gallons of
+wine," going on next day. "At any rate," he said, as we gently
+refused, "let us have a big drink together when ye come again."
+
+We arranged our return to Podgorica ourselves, and got back within
+five hours, shooting a fine pelican on the way, which was the last
+shot that we fired on the Lake of Scutari.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+Stephan our servant--Virpazar--The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass--Antivari and Prstan--The beauty of the bay--We are delayed by
+contrary winds--We are rowed to Dulcigno--We make the acquaintance of
+Marko Ivanković--A story concerning him--We shoot together--An episode
+on a lake--Vaccination--The Turkish inhabitants.
+
+
+For our journey to the sea-coast towns of Antivari (Bar) and Dulcigno
+(Ulcinj) we deemed it advisable to take a servant with us, and our
+choice fell on Stephan, a Hungarian by birth, but a ten years' sojourn
+in the Land of the Black Mountain had completely Montenegrinised him,
+if we may coin a word. As he was our constant companion for several
+months, it would be well to describe him.
+
+Every statement that Stephan made had to be liberally discounted--this
+we found out afterwards--for he was a born liar, and not a skilful one
+at that. He had one marvellous story about a large sum of money lying
+in his name in a bank in Hungary, which he must fetch in person, but
+he could never save enough money to make the journey. This was an
+obvious falsehood. But the story of his coming to Montenegro seemed
+true. He was a sergeant of an Austrian infantry regiment, and had
+attempted to cut down his superior officer in a fit of rage, severing
+his ear with a sabre. He fled to the Montenegrin border, which was
+quite close to his garrison, and has been in Montenegro ever since,
+wearing the national costume and married to a girl of the country.
+Stephan was certainly a most violent-tempered man, but he was often
+entertaining, full of fun, a decent cook, and could sing a host of odd
+songs and snatches picked up in Austrian garrison towns. Otherwise he
+was a thorough Montenegrin, though he considered himself vastly their
+superior. His temper at other times would be vile, but the mastery
+over himself was really great, and after a sharp remonstrance he could
+change his mood completely.
+
+Taking the omnibus of the Anglo-Montenegrin Trading Company, rudely
+dubbed "the Hearse," to Plavnica, the station for Podgorica on the
+Lake of Scutari, we transferred our luggage to a huge barge, or
+"londra," and were slowly punted out on to the lake through one of
+those extraordinary canals which intersect the marshy land at this end
+of the lake. There the good ship _Danitza_, owned by the same company,
+awaited us, and conveyed us to Virpazar, past our island of Vranjina
+and its little chapel.
+
+[Illustration: VIRPAZAR]
+
+Virpazar is the scene of the Montenegrin Vespers in 1702, and one of
+the richest villages in the district. Prettily situated up a long
+estuary of the lake, it is nothing but a collection of about twenty
+small houses, with arched ground floors, the people living on the
+first floor. The village is frequently flooded in the winter.
+
+The importance of this village lies in the fact that it is the
+connecting link--and a very bad one at that--between the rest of
+Montenegro and the sea. But no road connects it with the mainland, and
+travellers from Cetinje or Podgorica must take the steamer from either
+Rijeka or Plavnica to Virpazar, and from thence a good road leads over
+the Sutormann Pass to Antivari. A road which is being built between
+Virpazar and Rijeka will supply a long-felt want. At present, when the
+Prince or Crown Prince wish to visit their favourite residence on the
+sea at Topolica, near Antivari, the horses have to be sent by a
+roundabout mountain path from Rijeka, taking many hours, while the
+Princes take steamer and have a tedious wait in the inn at Virpazar.
+
+To this inn we went--there was no choice about it; it is the only one,
+and, moreover, there is but a single room for guests, serving as
+dining and sleeping apartment. Though we arrived at midday, we had to
+wait till the following day at noon for the postcart--twenty-four
+hours in this very uninteresting hole.
+
+But we hobnobbed with the local grandees, for there is the district
+law court here (the captain and magistrate have their residences in
+the village), and managed to pass the time fairly agreeably. In the
+evening we sat under the trees in front of our humble yet princely
+hostel, and talked of many things to our newly made friends. The frogs
+in the marshes made a terrific noise, almost drowning our
+conversation.
+
+Next morning we entered the post-chaise, in which we had wisely booked
+all the four seats, and made a start on our six hours' drive. What
+would have happened had other travellers arrived is hard to imagine. A
+wait of forty-eight hours till the next post went would have probably
+caused annoyance, and this carriage was literally the only means of
+conveyance on this side of Montenegro. It goes one day and returns the
+next. Fortunately, passengers are extremely rare. The drive was of
+great interest, winding up in a series of sweeping curves between
+magnificent hills. The ridge on our left was the site of a great
+battle in the last war, when a small Montenegrin force dislodged a
+large Turkish army and captured Antivari and the long-coveted sea. The
+danger and recklessness of the feat was apparent from the road, and it
+was evidently not expected by the Turks, for a false step on those
+rocky heights meant certain death.
+
+[Illustration: ANTIVARI ON BAR]
+
+The top of the Sutormann Pass (2,700 feet) was reached in about four
+hours, and now the deep blue Adria was spread out before us, and our
+tortuous descent commenced. Commanding the pass still stands a mighty
+but much-battered fortress, taken by the gallant Montenegrins in
+that memorable battle. But nowhere could the historical old town and
+fortress of Bar, or Antivari, be seen. In fact, not till we were
+within a few hundred yards of the town, was a single house in view. It
+is hidden from sight in a hollow, surrounded by a forest of olive
+trees.
+
+All of a sudden the carriage drew up at a recently built stone house,
+ornamented with the trophies of war. Piles of cannon-balls, old
+cannon, splinters of shells are tastefully arranged on the walls.
+Immediately in front of us stood the once famous fortress of Bar, now
+a shot-riddled and ruined mass of stone, a mere shell of its former
+strength.
+
+Even then the town is hardly apparent, but in a few seconds one enters
+it down a steep and slippery path of well-worn stones. On either side
+are Turkish bazaars, out of which Turkish faces peer at the infidel
+dogs. There is very little of the Montenegrin element apparent. We
+only walked through the town once, as our destination was Prstan, the
+actual seaport of Antivari.
+
+We were somewhat rudely disillusioned. After an hour's drive along a
+flat and ugly road, we espied a collection of some half a dozen
+houses. Two or three of them are large and modern in appearance but
+that was all. Was this, then, Antivari, Montenegro's important seaport
+and the bone of contention with Austria?
+
+Right well has Austria maintained its control of this little port. One
+large house is that of the Austrian Vice-Consul, who lives in solitary
+state, watching everyone who passes through the port. Opposite, on the
+further horn of the bay, lies Spizza, an Austrian military station.
+Antivari is, indeed, but Montenegrin in name.
+
+Right on the shore and in the centre of the large bay stands a white
+house, a short distance from the Austrian frontier, which is Topolica,
+the favourite residence of the Crown Prince. Square, undecorated, and
+uninteresting, it is almost an exact counterpart of the other
+Montenegrin royal residences. Yet its position is superb. From either
+corner of the bay, where the mountains meet the sea, stretches an
+unbroken chain of mountain peaks, rugged and forbidding, but extremely
+picturesque. Witnessed at sunset when the soft lights mellow the sharp
+outlines, and the sombreness of the mountains is tinged with red, the
+fascination which this place holds for this lover of nature, Prince
+Danilo, can be well understood. We spent two days revelling in its
+wild solitariness.
+
+Our hotel was distinctly quaint, but we were very comfortable. Again
+we had but one room for all, but it was clean, and the hostess, an
+Austrian, an excellent cook.
+
+We hoped to have started on our further journeys the following day,
+and found a small sailing vessel anchored in the bay; the captain
+consenting to take us on to Dulcigno. It was an Albanian boat, manned
+by about half a dozen cut-throats, and in spite of warnings we
+arranged to leave next day. Anything would be preferable to a ride of
+eight hours over mountain tracks on mules to Dulcigno; and we were all
+well armed.
+
+But the next day brought contrary winds, and we were forced to spend
+another day in Prstan. That day a large Italian steamer arrived and
+anchored in the bay, to take Prince Nicolas to Italy for the
+christening of his little granddaughter. Shortly before dark he
+arrived, attended by two adjutants, and after speaking a few words to
+the harbour captain, who respectfully kissed his hand, embarked in a
+boat, and was pulled on board the steamer. We were again struck with
+the immense breadth of his figure, clad in a long, grey military
+overcoat, which makes him look much shorter than he really is. He is
+really a typical-looking prince of a race of freeborn mountaineers. As
+he receded from the shore, we drew our revolvers and joined in the
+parting fusillade, shouting "Živio" as lustily as any of the little
+handful who had awaited him.
+
+The agent of the Austrian Lloyd Steamship Company came to our rescue
+on the following morning, as the Albanian boat made no preparations
+for starting, and offered to take us in his own boat to Dulcigno.
+This we gladly accepted, and about midday started in his large and
+roomy boat, built for sailing or for rowing, and manned by four
+Montenegrin sailors.
+
+The wind failed us most of the way, and our four men propelled us with
+long oars or sweeps which are worked standing up and facing them, a
+method of rowing common in the Adriatic. It is a splendid exercise,
+but like everything else it wants practice, as we speedily found out
+when we took a turn.
+
+Coffee, without which no true Montenegrin can exist, was made _en
+route_, and proved highly acceptable.
+
+Luckily we had taken a supply of food with us, though we had been told
+that we should be in Dulcigno for supper, and this again we devoured
+with ravenous appetites as the long hours wore on. The coast was
+monotonous, a never-varying bank of hills descending to the water's
+edge. Here and there a tiny village could be seen, but otherwise no
+life, and little vegetation.
+
+Not till nine o'clock in the evening did we reach Dulcigno, and the
+impression that the lights in the houses on the hillsides made is not
+easily to be forgotten. It seemed like a colony of spacious and
+luxurious villas on well-wooded slopes. In pitch dark we arrived at a
+quay, and groped our way out of the boat, and were led to the inn.
+Great knockings and shoutings summoned the innkeeper from his early
+slumbers. While waiting in the darkness below, the Turkish muezzins
+ascended the many minarets, and began the evening call to prayer. The
+weird chanting from so many voices (there are seven mosques in
+Dulcigno) in the otherwise utter stillness had a most uncanny effect.
+
+It was a strange arrival.
+
+Our inn was slightly less primitive than the preceding ones. We had a
+tiny bedroom apiece, and there was a room downstairs for eating
+purposes, though we were always able to take our meals outside under
+the trees.
+
+Dulcigno, or Ulcinj, is certainly the prettiest town in Montenegro,
+though it is to all intents and purposes Turkish in appearance. Built
+partly on a hill overlooking the sea, it descends into a small bay
+where the occasional passing steamers anchor. Well wooded and hilly,
+it is really a delightful spot, though the Turkish element may or may
+not detract from its beauty according to personal taste. The irregular
+houses, the mosques with their slender towers, the bazaar, and the
+gaily-dressed if dirty crowds that circulated between the rows of
+shops--gave a distinctly pleasing effect. The heavily-veiled women,
+wearing in addition to the veil a thick cloth cape with a capacious
+hood, amused us greatly, for on meeting us, lest our bold eyes should
+pierce their disguise, they would stop and turn their faces to the
+wall. What these poor creatures suffer from the heat in these
+ponderous cloaks can only be imagined, and Dulcigno is by no means
+cold.
+
+Though the fantastic picture conjured up the night of our arrival by
+the twinkling lights, peeping out of the dark foliage, on the hillside
+was not realised, still the entirely different picture of the reality
+was equally pleasing.
+
+We called the next morning on the harbour captain, an Austrian and
+ex-sea-captain, who received us most kindly and courteously. Through
+him we were at once able to make the acquaintance of one Marko
+Ivanković, a hunter of great prowess, whom we immediately engaged to
+attend us for the shooting in the neighbourhood.
+
+Now, though we will not go so far as to say that he was the sole
+object of our visit to Dulcigno, still he did certainly influence our
+plans. Once, during our very first stay at Podgorica, we met an
+Austrian ornithologist and sportsman who told us a wonderful
+experience of his at Dulcigno with this very man, Marko Ivanković. He
+had come to Dulcigno one night by steamer, to spend a few months in
+this paradise for sportsmen, and as he entered a lowly inn, a man of
+almost repellent aspect sat brooding gloomily, evidently lost in a fit
+of abstraction. This man gave no greeting to the new-comer, who sat
+down at the further end of the table and ordered food. Shortly
+afterwards the man rose and silently left the room. An hour later this
+same man reappeared in the doorway, cap in hand, and humbly asked
+permission of the ornithologist to seat himself at the same table. The
+permission was readily given, and the man (it was Marko) came near and
+attempted to kiss L.'s coat. This action signifies the greatest
+humility, and is only accorded to persons of the highest rank. L.
+remonstrated strongly, saying--
+
+"Why dost thou kiss my coat? I am a man like thyself, and no prince.
+What wouldst thou from me?"
+
+"Sir, I see that thou art a hunter (L. had his dogs with him), and I
+would fain be thy servant."
+
+L. wanted a man, and from his conversation he soon gathered that this
+was no inexperienced huntsman, and so they spoke of terms. But Marko
+at first would not hear of anything of the sort, saying he would serve
+for nothing. Naturally L. refused to accept his services gratis, and
+at last an arrangement was made that Marko should first prove his
+capabilities and serve a term of probation. Even then Marko refused to
+take money, but a present of a gun or some article to the value of his
+services at so much a day.
+
+With this plan L. was forced to be content, and two days afterwards
+the expeditions into the neighbouring country were commenced. To tell
+the story in L.'s own words:--[2]
+
+"After we had been together some weeks Marko became gloomy and cast
+down, unlike his usual merry self. It was no easy task to persuade him
+to tell me what was the matter. It appeared that he was in debt, and
+should not the money be paid very shortly, his house and all that was
+his would be seized. Of course I gave him the money, which happened to
+be more than his due up to that day, and he took it as a loan. This
+condition he insisted on, and I laughingly assented."
+
+It was then that we first heard of Achmed Uiko, who told us the story
+of his life in Podgorica. Jovan, of the tribe Kuć, had been publicly
+beaten in Dulcigno at this time, and in revenge had shot the Governor,
+who had ordered this ignominious punishment. Jovan had fled to
+Alessio, in Albania, with a price upon his head, and certain persons
+came to Marko to beg him to follow the assassin and bring back his
+head. Marko was then in L.'s service, and confided his dilemma to his
+master, who told him that if he but harboured such thoughts he was not
+fit to be his servant. Marko then refused, and Achmed Uiko accepted,
+murdering Jovan in a boat while fishing, and the head was subsequently
+displayed in Dulcigno. This is a noteworthy episode, for it led to the
+abolition of corporal punishment and of the barbarous custom of
+displaying heads on poles.
+
+[Footnote 2: This story was published in the _Wide World Magazine_,
+and is reproduced with the Editor's permission.]
+
+To return, however, to the story:--
+
+"After several weeks I made a day's tour with Marko to the Bojana. At
+the mouth of the river, which you know is the outlet of the Lake of
+Scutari, a large island has been formed by a stranded ship which sank
+there, and all the debris, logs, and other rubbish have formed a delta
+of some size upon the wreck. It abounds in game, and thither we
+journeyed one morning early, reaching it some few hours later by a
+small boat in which we ferried ourselves across. During the day a
+great storm sprang up, precluding all chance of returning to the
+mainland that evening. In a hut of boughs we spent a miserable night,
+drenched to the skin by the incessant rain. Not till towards evening
+of the following day could we recross, and it was bright moonlight
+when we commenced our weary tramp, heavily laden and wet, to Dulcigno.
+The neighbourhood is dangerous, both Albanians and Montenegrins shoot
+at sight, and care must always be exercised.
+
+"Perhaps we had covered half the distance, when Marko suddenly and
+without a word of warning threw the bags and other things he was
+carrying to the ground. 'It is a dog's life, nay worse, that I lead
+with thee. My health is ruined, my clothes spoilt, and not a kreutzer
+do I get.'
+
+"I was furious at the man's infamous lie, for he was still several
+guldens to the good, and even more so at the disadvantage he had taken
+over me. Here we were alone in a wild and dangerous district, miles
+from home, and not a human being near.
+
+"'Thou liest, thou ungrateful dog. Thou art an ass without a face.'
+
+"As I said this in my rage--it is a terrible insult to call a man a
+faceless ass--Marko's face was transformed with speechless fury. His
+high cheek-bones and black curly hair always made him unprepossessing,
+for his was a distinctly negro type of face, and now with his lips
+drawn back like a snarling wolf, disclosing his yellow teeth and
+gleaming eyeballs, he looked like a fiend incarnate. I shudder now
+when I recall that moonlit scene.
+
+"His hand dropped like lightning on the butt of his revolver, but in
+the moment I had sprung back a pace and covered him with my gun, which
+I was luckily carrying cocked.
+
+"'Thy hand from the revolver,' I cried, 'or thou art a dead man.'
+Slowly his hand sank to his side. 'Pick up those things at once and
+carry them before me, or as sure as there is a God in heaven I will
+shoot thee like the dog thou art.'
+
+"As if every movement was of the greatest exertion he picked up the
+traps, saying as he did so, 'Thou shalt remember these insults.'
+
+[Illustration: MARKO IVANKOVIC]
+
+[Illustration: THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA]
+
+"'Be still!' I cried, covering him with my gun, 'and now precede me.'
+
+"And in this fashion we returned to my house. He threw the load into a
+corner of the room, and at the door he returned and repeated his
+warning, vanishing in the darkness.
+
+"From this time onwards I shot alone. Try as I would I could get no
+one to come with me, and this I put down to the worthy Marko's
+influence. Thrice I saw him while out shooting, but only once within
+speaking distance. I then called to him 'Marko, I know thou wilt try
+and kill me; but listen, I am married and have a wife and child at
+home. For their sakes I ask thee to shoot at me from the front, and
+thus give me a chance to defend myself.'
+
+"He smiled strangely again, saying, 'Thou wilt remember thy insults,'
+and disappeared.
+
+"I always took cover when I saw him, but nothing happened, and the eve
+of my departure arrived. The steamer left in the early morning, and
+just as dawn was breaking and I was still in bed Marko entered the
+room. He approached my bed, and laid upon the table by my head the sum
+of money I had advanced him to repay his debt. Then he spoke:--
+
+"'I saidst that thou wouldst remember the insults thou hast put upon
+me. Here is thy money, and now listen to my story. Thou hadst scarce
+set foot in Dulcigno when thy death was planned by an enemy, and I
+was hired to do the deed. That was why I would take no wages, for I
+was already well paid; besides, it was thought that thou wouldst then
+certainly engage my services. I was to accidentally shoot thee while
+hunting. What more easy than to stumble and for my gun to explode? But
+when I knew thee, then I could not kill thee thus. I tried to provoke
+thee that night, knowing thee to be a violent-tempered man; I provoked
+thee into insulting me. I hoped thou wouldst have struck me, and then
+it would have been easy. Thou wast very near death at that moment, for
+in spite of thy gun I could have shot thee, but thou hadst grown too
+much into my heart. Even in my rage I was powerless. And now here is
+thy money. I have kept my word, and am an honourable man.'
+
+"I sprang from my bed and stopped him. 'Who was my enemy?' I cried.
+
+"'One who knew thee in Bosnia. This man had hoped that thou wouldst
+visit him, and thy coffee was ready poisoned. When I left thy service
+another man was hired to kill thee, but I followed thee wherever thou
+went. Thus didst thou see me these three times.'
+
+"I knew now who my enemy was. A man exiled by the Austrians for
+treasonable practices whilst I was still an official in Bosnia. Marko
+accompanied me to the ship, but not until I swore on my honour to
+otherwise throw the money into the sea would he accept it, and then
+only that which he had actually earned, not a kreutzer more, for I
+would have willingly made him a present. Thus Marko Ivanković went out
+of my life, but I shall never forget him."
+
+Such was the story we heard one evening in Podgorica, and which we
+were here able to prove in part. When Marko heard that we were friends
+of his former master, his face lighted up with joy, and he kissed our
+hands. During our stay he was always with us, a devoted attendant and
+servant. Another very interesting phase of his life had been spent in
+the Hercegovina, where he fought as an outlaw for many years against
+the Austrians. He still possesses two mementoes of his adventures in
+that land, one in the form of an officer's undress jacket, technically
+called a "blouse," and the other of a more permanent character,
+namely, a maimed hand. He and his band were surprised one night by
+gendarmes, and a fierce hand-to-hand fight ensued, during which an
+Austrian aimed a cut at Marko with his sword. Marko caught the blow on
+his hand and held the blade fast, but the gendarme drew back the
+weapon sharply and severed all the tendons of his hand. Marko cannot
+now open his hand, but his wounder was sped to the happy
+hunting-grounds there and then, as he modestly relates.
+
+Shooting of the same kind as on the Lake of Scutari is to be found in
+abundance all round Dulcigno. Unfortunately the Bojana and the
+afore-mentioned island at its mouth was closed to us. The evening of
+our arrival two men had been shot there, and it is doubtful, even had
+we insisted on going, whether the authorities would have permitted it.
+It is not good to visit localities just after shooting affrays. In
+this instance the peasants on both sides were excited, and we
+reluctantly gave up the trip to which we had looked forward for some
+time. However, there was plenty left to shoot over, and we had much
+good sport with pelican, duck, and crane.
+
+One rather unpleasant incident occurred during our stay, which very
+nearly ended seriously.
+
+The lakes and swamps over which we shot lay at about an hour and a
+half's walk from the town, and it was necessary to be there by
+daybreak. We had ordered our paddlers to await us one morning at dawn,
+and on our arrival were considerably annoyed to find no one there but
+a boy. After a short wait we started, taking the boy and the larger
+londra, or canoe, Marko and Stephan paddling as well. A longer delay
+would have spoilt our morning, as the fowl disappear long before the
+sun is well up in the heavens. About an hour later we discerned a boat
+paddling furiously towards us, and, coming alongside, the inmates
+proved to be our missing crew. Seizing our canoe, the spokesman
+addressed our boy, abusing him roundly, saying he had stolen his
+canoe, and demanded the paddles peremptorily. The boy looked at us
+helplessly, and naturally refused, for we were in the middle of a
+lake. The man then became livid with rage, rocked our canoe violently,
+threatening to overturn us into the water. Then his hand dropped on
+his revolver, and in his face appeared unmistakably the lust to kill.
+All this passed so quickly that we had listened to the altercation in
+open-mouthed astonishment. The rage and violence took us utterly by
+surprise, for nothing of the kind had ever happened to us before from
+the naturally courteous Montenegrins. However, now the man's rage
+communicated itself to us, and in the twinkling of an eye both Marko
+and myself had covered him with our firearms--we both had guns at our
+side--and Stephan began to talk. Stephan was a violent-tempered man,
+and now he let himself go. He spoke for some minutes, and it was
+lurid. The muzzle of my carbine began to wobble, for his fluency and
+comprehensiveness were distinctly amusing, while our attacker, who
+soon let go the butt of his revolver, listened with pained but
+undisguised admiration. "And now, thou accursed one," wound up
+Stephan, after he had paid attention, in his burst of eloquence, to
+the man's family, antecedents, personal appearance, and probable
+future, "go back to the hotel, and await my master's return! Thou
+knowest the law. For even laying the hand on thy revolver in anger,
+and against strangers in our land, thou wilt be thrown into prison,
+and thou wilt receive ten months. I will come and see thee, and listen
+to the music of thy clanking chains, and we will talk of to-day's
+doings!" By the time Stephan had finished, abject fear was depicted on
+the man's face, and his companions showed signs of having heard
+enough. Murmuring apologies, they sheered off, and with a slow and
+thoughtful rhythm paddled back the way they had come.
+
+On our return to the inn several hours later the three men were
+standing stiffly outside the door, cap in hand and thoroughly scared.
+He who had attacked us spoke tremblingly, offering as an excuse that
+they had fished all night and had but gone for some food before taking
+us out again. They were direly poor, he said, and the fear of losing
+their wages had upset them, the long night without sleep had destroyed
+their powers of reasoning, and--would we forgive them for the
+dastardly outrage? Needless to say we dismissed them, as do the
+magistrates, with a caution.
+
+We met amongst other Montenegrin officials the district doctor, an
+interesting man of varied experience. At his invitation we witnessed
+the annual vaccination, which is compulsory in Montenegro.
+
+[Illustration: VACCINATION]
+
+[Illustration: BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO]
+
+Outside the door of the principal mosque the doctor and his
+assistants and some other officials took up their position one morning
+and waited. Shortly afterwards crowds of children appeared on the
+scene, mostly in charge of their Turkish fathers or elder brothers,
+some of the latter scarcely able to carry their little burdens. Very
+rarely a Turkish mother appeared, closely veiled, but the Christian
+mothers invariably came; that is, the Albanian Christians from the
+outlying villages. Very quaint are these women in a most picturesque
+costume and carrying their infants in a cumbersome and unwieldy cradle
+slung on their backs. It was a very varied assortment of babies which
+was presented to the doctor, many of the Turkish children being so
+emaciated and such a mass of repulsive sores, that many were sent away
+as too weak. Most of them shrieked with fear, but a few came up
+smiling, one and all comforted by their protector, either Turk, child,
+or fond mother. The fathers invariably showed the most distressed
+concern. It was a comical sight; outside the rails a motley crowd of
+interested spectators and waiting children, and in the inclosure the
+doctor pricking his patients one after the other in a most indifferent
+manner. His clerk noted the names, and we, with some of the local
+grandees, drank tiny cups of coffee and looked on.
+
+The Albanian or Turkish element is very strong in Dulcigno, and they
+are the only Montenegrin subjects exempt from compulsory military
+service. The Montenegrin authorities told us that they were very
+peaceable and industrious, giving no trouble whatever. It is, after
+Podgorica, the largest town in Montenegro, and does a lot of trade in
+small sailing-boats down the coast. As many as seventy-five per cent
+of the men are usually away at sea, carrying the Montenegrin flag as
+far as Constantinople. It is quite cut off from the rest of
+Montenegro, except by a mule track connecting it over a difficult
+mountain path with Antivari and the rest of the country. By sea it is
+connected by the Austrian-Lloyd weekly Albanian Line, and by one or
+two smaller steamers which occasionally call there, with Cattaro and
+the Albanian coast towns.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer much
+from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass the
+Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious troubles--The town
+and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding, Yes and No--We return to Rijeka
+by steamer--The beauties of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's
+return, when the fatted calf is _not_ killed.
+
+
+Before we left Dulcigno it was necessary to have our passports viséd
+by the Turkish Consul, as we intended returning to Podgorica _viâ_
+Scutari. We had to go through a lot of tedious formality, though the
+Consul was a most pleasant man, and laughed at the precautions which
+his orders forced him to take. But as he supplied us with horses and
+an escort--for the path is considered somewhat dangerous--we resigned
+ourselves to the inevitable with a good grace. Our guns and carbines
+we were forced to send back to Podgorica with Stephan, as the law is
+very strict against the introduction of firearms into Albania, where,
+however, even the poorest peasant goes fully armed. But as strangers
+our weapons would have been confiscated on the border. Verily the ways
+of the Turk are passing strange.
+
+We made a start at four o'clock one morning just as the sun was
+appearing above the hills, and the day promised to be extremely hot.
+Our horses were fairly good, and the man who constituted our guard, an
+Albanian, seemed a pleasant fellow, which much belied his appearance.
+A more villainous-looking face, with half his teeth missing, could
+hardly be imagined. However, the whole way he rolled us cigarettes
+most industriously, rarely taking one from us. Our saddles were
+Turkish, and were our first experience of them, and, it is to be
+hoped, the last.
+
+The high road, or rather path, to Scutari, is considered good for
+Montenegro. In reality it is a mere track, in places paved with
+cobblestones atrociously laid. It is odd that many important districts
+in this country are entirely unconnected by roads with the
+neighbouring towns, and consequently such things as carriages do not
+exist. As an instance, the whole of the country lying beyond Rijeka
+towards the sea, containing two important towns, and in size about an
+eighth of Montenegro, possesses one short road--from Virpazar to
+Antivari--and one carriage.
+
+Our path lay for the first three hours through a richly vegetated
+country, and the scenery at times was quite English, owing to the
+amount of oak trees which overhang the path. But at nearly every open
+space was a Turkish graveyard. The indiscriminate way in which the
+Turks bury their dead is most extraordinary.
+
+We reached the River Bojana, and rode along the bank some time before
+we came to the ferry. It is a broad and swiftly flowing river of quite
+imposing size. The heat was now getting tremendous, and a friendly
+Albanian picking apricots on the roadside gave us many handfuls, which
+proved very acceptable.
+
+Two Albanians came across in a large barge in answer to our hail, and
+we and our horses--the latter, by the way, stepping into the barge
+most unconcernedly--were piloted across. Here we entered Albania, and
+were examined by a fierce-looking Customs official. He turned our
+baggage out on to a mat, and evidently meant to overhaul it
+thoroughly, when a few _Daily Graphics_ caught his eye. After that he
+dismissed the remainder of our things with a wave of the hand, which
+our men promptly repacked, and retired into the papers. A lot of other
+men came up, and we were pleased to afford so much delight with our
+illustrated journals.
+
+As we were drinking coffee in the very primitive inn, a heavy
+thunderstorm came on, and deluges of rain, keeping us here for about
+an hour, when it cleared up sufficiently to proceed. Our landlord at
+Dulcigno had packed us up a meal with a bottle or two of wine at our
+orders, and we, now being hungry, inspected the basket. It was, to put
+it mildly, distinctly disappointing, and not fit to eat or drink.
+Added to this, my hunting knife was stolen, and we were very glad to
+get on again.
+
+The rest of the ride was the reverse of monotonous. The path was now
+as slippery as grease, and our horses floundered at every other step,
+and at times we plashed through quagmires, and became bespattered from
+head to foot. Several men passed us with rifles slung over their
+shoulders, but interchanged salutations with our guard. With the
+exception of one small revolver, we were unarmed and practically
+helpless. A short time after our ride through this district, a
+stranger was killed. It is very unfair to refuse foreigners the
+permission to carry any arms through such dangerous parts, when it is
+considered a disgrace to go unarmed by the inhabitants. Our saddles,
+too, were beginning to cause us much discomfort. After the first few
+hours on a Turkish saddle, every movement of the horse becomes agony.
+
+We reached the outskirts of Scutari about seven hours after our start,
+and the town is entered by a great bridge. But before coming to the
+bridge we rode through a great assembly of Albanians, judging from
+their different costumes, from every part of the country, with their
+flocks and herds for the market. The men were lying about singly or in
+groups, sometimes under a rough tent, while the women attended to
+their wants and to the flocks. Each man was heavily armed with rifle
+and revolver, and turned lazily as we passed, with no friendly looks,
+plainly intimating that we were intruders. Still they were fine,
+fierce-looking men, though their expression is not nearly so
+prepossessing as that of the Montenegrin. It was a strange scene of
+life, but only one of many that abound in and about the capital of
+Albania.
+
+At the bridge we had to dismount and cross on foot, and a very painful
+operation it proved after so many hours in the saddle.
+
+The custom-house was situated immediately at the other end of the
+bridge, and here we entered. In the guard-house, full of
+disreputable-looking Turkish soldiers, were hung rifles and revolvers
+on nails in great number and variety, which the mountaineers have to
+leave on entering the town precincts. The custom-house official was
+peacefully sleeping when we came in, and had to be awakened. We were
+led to a divan, and cigarettes and coffee promptly brought to us while
+our passports were examined. In a quarter of an hour we were allowed
+to proceed, but a man came running after us saying that our baggage
+had not been examined. He gently hinted that he had no wish to examine
+it all if ..., and we understood. We forced a handful of backsheesh in
+his seemingly unwilling hand, and slowly, with many muttered
+exclamations, climbed into the saddles. We even did not scorn the
+friendly aid of a low wall, so painfully stiff were we.
+
+A short ride round the once mighty and historical fortress of Scutari,
+past a ruined building liberally painted with white crosses, said to
+have been once the Cathedral, and where we had noticed that Christian
+Albanians piously crossed themselves on passing, led us to the famous
+bazaar.
+
+It was not our first visit to Scutari (we had visited the town by
+steamer from Montenegro on several previous occasions), but as we
+clattered through the evil-smelling alleys filled with a surging mass
+of more or less unclean humanity, we were struck more forcibly than
+ever with the picture. At times our passage was blocked by the crowds,
+and misshapen figures and hideous faces would peer out of doors and
+shop windows at us, and swaggering Albanians would jostle each other,
+their belts for the most part empty, though many were armed in spite
+of the stringent rules to the contrary. Slowly we forged our way
+through this seething crowd, and emerged on the open road beyond,
+leading to the town proper, which lies about half-an-hour's distance
+away.
+
+At the hotel we dismissed the man (and the horses), who remarked with
+a certain grimness, in Italian, "Buon arrivato," and we staggered into
+a meal which our eight-hour fast and torture had rendered extremely
+necessary.
+
+[Illustration: THE CONSULAR QUARTERS, SCUTARI]
+
+Though Scutari, strictly speaking, does not belong to this account of
+Montenegro, it is still so interesting, being in former days part
+of Montenegro, that it deserves some mention.
+
+The actual town is Mahometan, three-quarters of the inhabitants
+belonging to that faith; but as the surrounding mountains are all
+Christian, and it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Bishopric of
+Albania, religious feuds are common. The Christian Albanian belongs
+literally to the "Church Militant," and emphasises his feelings
+occasionally by throwing a dead pig into a mosque. On other occasions
+playful Albanians have been known to tie white cloths round a fez,
+thereby imitating the headgear of a Mahometan priest, and so parade
+through the town. Very naturally the Mahometans object to it, and
+trouble ensues. About a year ago Scutari was in a state of siege, and
+closed to trade for a fortnight.[3]
+
+The consular quarter of the town is really quite fine, and here all
+the rich merchants, of whom there are very many, live in large houses
+often beautifully fitted up and surrounded by a formidable wall. A
+street where such houses are situated is externally very gloomy,
+nothing to be seen but high walls pierced by massive gates. Behind
+those walls, however, are lovely gardens and imposing houses.
+
+[Footnote 3: This has again happened since writing the above.]
+
+The consulates are very much in evidence, with guards of
+splendid-looking Albanian kavasses. Politically only Austria and Italy
+are vitally interested in Albania, and these countries have large
+consular staffs and fine buildings and post offices.
+
+Owing to the absence of the British Consul, we went to see the acting
+Vice-Consul, who is a Scutarine, and a very courteous gentleman. Like
+all the rich merchants of Scutari, he spoke Italian fluently, and
+through him we got an insight into the merchant houses. An extremely
+aged kavass, in the long white skirt or kirtle worn largely in
+Scutari, and with the British Arms emblazoned on his fez, respectfully
+kissed our hands, and we were told that he had been in English service
+for over forty years. But he could not speak a word of any language
+except Albanian.
+
+The Vice-Consul placed another kavass at our disposal to accompany us
+on our explorations of the town, and gave him further permission to
+attend us on our proposed ride to Podgorica. This latter idea we were
+forced to give up ultimately, as the roads were considered too
+dangerous. As a matter of fact, a big shooting affray took place in
+the district through which we should have traversed a few days
+afterwards.
+
+Quite one of the sights is Mr. Paget's house (of Paget's Horse fame),
+situated in the heart of the town. The clock tower affords a fine
+view, though the time that it keeps is startling to the new-comer. As
+is known, the Turks have a time of their own, which has a difference
+of four hours and a half to our time. It is misleading to get up at
+an early hour, say six o'clock, and find that it is already half-past
+ten. And again you feel you ought to be sleeping at one o'clock at
+night, till you remember that it is really only about eight o'clock.
+
+In the bazaar of Scutari representatives of every clan in Albania can
+be seen, and each tribe has his distinctive dress, so that the variety
+of national costumes to be seen there can be imagined. The Scutarines
+are of course very much in evidence, clad in a jaunty sleeveless and
+magnificently-embroidered jacket, silk shirt, and enormous baggy
+breeches of black, and heavily pleated. How heavily pleated they are
+can be gathered when twenty to twenty-five yards of a kind of black
+alpaca are used for one pair of knee-breeches. White stockings and a
+red skull-cap--not the high Turkish fez--with a huge blue silk tassel
+reaching to the waist, complete the attire. Their women-folk look
+picturesque in a large scarlet cloak, with a hood half covering the
+face.
+
+The student of Albanian costumes can make a complete study of the
+subject in Scutari, rendering a journey into the vast country beyond
+almost unnecessary.
+
+We always took a camera with us, but with very poor results. It is
+against the Mahometan religion to be photographed, neither are
+photographers looked upon with pleasure. We did once plant our camera
+in the main street of the bazaar, to the great anger of a policeman
+who ordered us off, luckily after we had secured a picture.
+
+When we were quite new to Scutari, it happened we were waiting for a
+boat to take us off to the steamer, when we were struck with a
+particularly fine old Scutariner in red fez and long flowing skirt.
+Through the medium of an interpreter, I politely asked the permission
+to take his picture. He solemnly nodded his head backwards, and I,
+rejoiced at so good a subject, hurriedly erected the stand. When I
+next glanced at him, his face was purple with rage, and he made a
+threatening movement. For a moment I was quite at a loss to understand
+the why and wherefore, until our interpreter hastily explained that it
+was against the old man's religion.
+
+"But he said 'yes,'" I expostulated. "At least he nodded."
+
+"That means 'no,'" said the interpreter.
+
+"What does?" I demanded. "Saying 'yes,' or nodding it."
+
+Then the man explained to me at some length, as I repacked my camera,
+that in the Orient to shake the head means "yes," and a nod--a quick
+elevation of the chin accompanied by a click of the tongue--is
+negative. This custom is largely adopted in Montenegro, particularly
+amongst the peasants, but even then we never quite knew if a shake of
+the head was meant in the Turkish or European sense. It is a
+confusing and irritating habit, and takes months to get accustomed to.
+
+Visitors to Montenegro usually spend a day in Scutari, for the route
+by steamer is the only perfectly safe way of entering the town.
+Passengers by the steamer are not required to have their passports
+viséd, if they state their intention to the official, who promptly
+boards the steamer on its arrival, to return by it next day. But names
+and particulars are carefully noted and laid before the Governor.
+During this particular visit, we were already well known to the
+Turkish officer in charge of this department, a pleasant little
+fellow, inordinately proud of his French which he had just learnt; but
+still he worried us greatly, calling daily and even sending obvious
+spies to find out how long we really meant to stay and our object. We
+tried to impress upon him that we had no base intentions on the town,
+and were really quite harmless individuals, but he remained friendlily
+suspicious till he bade farewell to us on board the little steamer
+_Danitza_.
+
+It is about four hours to Plavnica, and the trip across the lake is
+very fine, surrounded as it is by magnificent mountains and dotted
+with tiny wooded islands along its northern bank. We did not disembark
+at Plavnica, the nearest point for Podgorica, but proceeded _viâ_
+Virpazar up the river to Rijeka, the final station of the steamer and
+connecting link with Cetinje. The voyage up to Rijeka is delightful,
+as the boat threads her way through a narrow channel between lofty
+green hills. It is a picture of as true sylvan beauty, peace and
+quiet, as can be found on many of the upper reaches of the Thames.
+
+At Rijeka we waited in an inn for the carriage, which we had ordered
+by telegraph from Cetinje to take us back to Podgorica, and were
+startled to hear a revolver-shot fired in the village. Everyone was
+running excitedly to a certain small "dugan," or shop, and thither we
+also directed our steps and found a bleeding Montenegrin standing over
+a prostrate and insensible Turk.
+
+What had happened was as follows. The Montenegrin had bought some
+tobacco from the Turk, and claimed to have been given two kreutzers
+(under a halfpenny) short in change, whereupon the Turk accused the
+other of having hidden it.
+
+"Thou art a liar!" promptly cried the Montenegrin, and received a
+bullet in the thigh as an answer from the enraged Turk. Not seriously
+hurt, the Montenegrin, equally quickly, drew his revolver and, using
+it as a club, knocked the Turk insensible; in fact, he was thought to
+be dead. However, we afterwards heard that he had recovered.
+
+Shortly afterwards we were spending a few days in Cetinje, and were
+again witnesses of the final act of another small drama which was
+enacted about this time.
+
+One morning we saw about twenty Montenegrins brought into the town
+heavily chained, and on inquiry we were told the following story.
+
+A young man, whom we will call Andreas to prevent confusion, had been
+for some time in Austria, and not finding work he returned to his
+village, named Ljubotin, half-way between Rijeka and Cetinje, or, to
+be more correct, just below the Bella Vista in the hollow. He arrived
+in the night, penniless and in a desperate condition, and waited
+outside his widowed mother's house till he saw that all the men, his
+relations, had left and gone to work in the fields. Entering the house
+he demanded money of his aged mother, who indignantly refused him--he
+seems to have been a bad lot altogether--and as he threatened to take
+it by force, she hurriedly called in the village kmet, or mayor, to
+protect her. But the kmet was also aged and infirm, and brought a
+young man with him. This young man remonstrated with Andreas, who was
+breaking open the chest, and said--
+
+"Give me thy revolver."
+
+"Thus I give it thee," answered Andreas, and drawing his revolver he
+shot the man dead.
+
+Andreas then fled out of the house into the fields, and the murdered
+man's relations speedily gathered together and pursued him. They
+espied the fugitive running and fired at him, whereupon Andreas threw
+up his arms and fell to the ground. His pursuers thinking him dead,
+left him. Andreas was in reality shamming, and crawling through the
+bushes saw his uncle at work and promptly fired at _him_.
+
+This time he met his deserts, for his uncle, unhurt, returned the
+compliment and shot him through the head.
+
+These shots brought the original pursuers to the spot, and seeing
+Andreas dead, and shot by his uncle and not by them, they began
+abusing the old man for taking their lawful prey from them.
+
+He bared his chest dramatically, saying that as he knew that the
+vendetta must continue, they should shoot him then and there and end
+the matter. But they would not, and going further found another
+relation of Andreas; this time a young man, and the pride of the
+family. They shot and wounded him slightly. He fired and mortally
+wounded one of his attackers, which was as far as they got.
+
+The gendarmes had come and arrested them all, and these were the men
+of both sides, which we had seen that morning.
+
+As we knew several of them personally, we were doubly interested.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+Preparations for our tour in the Brda--We start--Where it is not good
+to be giddy--A trying ride--Our inn--Nocturnal episodes--The journey
+continued--Pleasant surroundings--The Montenegrin _quart
+d'heure_--Arrival in Kolašin--We meet the Governor--Visiting--The Band
+of Good Hope--The Crown Prince's birthday--We are ashamed.
+
+
+The preparations for our tour through the mountainous districts of
+North-East Montenegro, known as the Brda, took a few days.
+
+We had some difficulty about horses, though ultimately P. and I
+secured two good animals for ourselves, but the third, destined for
+the bulk of our baggage and Stephan, was a dilapidated apology for the
+equine race. As a matter of fact, it stood the trying journey in a
+remarkable manner.
+
+Then there were a few pots and pans for cooking purposes to purchase,
+some necessary additions with which to supplement our humble fare, and
+two days' rations of meat and bread.
+
+It made a formidable pile when we reviewed it one morning at daybreak,
+though we had cut down our baggage as close as possible. It took
+Stephan about an hour to load up, and when he had finished, he had
+left no room on top for himself.
+
+We carried ourselves each a carbine, revolver, and bandolier of
+cartridges, and a pair of saddlebags; but what with a camera, camping
+utensils, guns and cartridges, sleeping-coats, etc., the pack-horse
+was full up. However, there was no help for it, and Stephan had to
+walk the first day.
+
+We left Podgorica about 6.30, accompanied by Dr. S., who came with us
+partly on business and partly out of friendship. As he knew the
+country perfectly, he did much to render our tour more interesting.
+
+The mountains ascend abruptly, and our path was for some hours along
+the turbulent Morača, which we met at the end of the plain. In five
+minutes we were surrounded by mountain scenery. Some little way up the
+valley a bridge is in the course of construction across the stream,
+and will form part of the projected road from Podgorica to Kolašin. On
+its completion, we were told, it would be the highest bridge in the
+Balkans. Men were working on a loose and steeply sloping bank of
+crumbling earth a few feet above a precipitous rock, which overhangs
+the Morača, at a height of two hundred and fifty feet.
+
+"They very rarely fall," said Dr. S. in answer to our unspoken
+question.
+
+It made us giddy and sick to watch them. But our own position was
+often not much safer. The path see-sawed up and down; one moment we
+were splashed by the spray of a waterfall as it dashed into a creamy
+pool, and the next we were up on a dizzy height, with one foot hanging
+over a precipice, gazing on the foam-flecked mill-race below. Verily,
+it is no journey for a giddy man to take. A single false step on the
+part of the horse would send both it and its rider to a sudden death.
+With the ordinary mountain pony, for the horses are practically only
+that, it is not necessary to guide it--in fact it might be dangerous.
+The Montenegrin rides with a loose rein over the most ticklish ground,
+only tightening his grip on descending a very steep hill to help his
+horse when it occasionally stumbles.
+
+Despite a slight nervousness, we were still able to appreciate to the
+full the grand scenery of the valley of the Morača. It turned out to
+be quite as fine as anything we saw in the mountains.
+
+About four hours after our start we crossed the stream by a wooden
+bridge and dismounted at an inn. Stabling our horses in the ground
+floor, we ascended to the upper regions where the human beings live,
+and clamoured for food.
+
+Raw ham and, of course, eggs were all that was to be had, and, as it
+turned out, it was our only meal that day. The flies were terrible,
+but Dr. S. comforted us, saying that every hour would bring us to
+higher regions and consequently fewer flies. A prophecy which was only
+partially fulfilled.
+
+We made the best of our repast, and after an hour's rest we made
+another start. We left the river now, and seemed to climb a breakneck
+hill for interminable hours. The region was barren and absolutely
+waterless, while the heat was tremendous. I only remember one view
+during that broiling ride. We had reached a great altitude, and were
+crossing a narrow ridge. On one side was the Morača, and on the other
+the Mala, both streams mere threads in the hazy distance.
+
+It was the want of water that tried us more than anything. About
+midday we halted for a while at a small village, and under the
+refreshing shade of a large tree. Some young men kindly fetched us a
+little water in a dirty vessel, which tasted abominably.
+
+Another long climb and we at last found shade, and rode for the rest
+of the afternoon through beech forests. If the path had been bad
+before, it was worse now, and it was a perfect marvel how the horses
+kept their feet. I was somewhat unfortunate in my horse Alat, who was
+blind in one eye, so that I always had to guide him over difficult
+places. This kept me for ever on the alert, and became trying. At
+every hut we pulled up and asked for milk, but invariably got "Nema"
+(I have none) for an answer. The Montenegrins are singularly laconic
+at times.
+
+Now began a long descent, so atrocious that we had to dismount and
+climb down on foot, leaving the horses to pick their way as best they
+could, and about seven p.m. we reached the house where we were to
+spend the night. It consisted of two rooms, a kitchen and a bedroom,
+the sole furniture of the latter consisting of two wooden bedsteads.
+
+There was no food, except a half lamb, which Stephan had brought on
+the pack-horse, and its condition was unpleasant from its many hours'
+exposure to the sun and attendant flies. It took over an hour to cook,
+and by that time our ravenous hunger had passed, stilled by a few
+quarts of delicious milk. The inn--for such was the character of the
+house--unlike similar institutions of more civilised lands, had
+neither accommodation for man nor beast. There was no hay for our
+hungry horses, who had to wait for two hours while a man took an
+hour's climb up a mountain to the next village and brought back a load
+of 45 kilos (100 lbs.) on his back. A little thought can be given to
+this fact. Suffice it to say that this lean and athletic man took off
+his shirt and literally wrung the sweat from it. This, too, at the end
+of a long day's work. Part of the hay served for our beds, and little
+enough it seemed too.
+
+P. and I were given the two beds, or rather we were forced to take
+them, and I turned in at once, after looking at the mutton broth, and
+fell asleep immediately. In the night I was awakened by a child crying
+in the room, and in the dim light I was startled to see the
+floor--empty when I went to bed--strewn with sleeping figures.
+
+A heap that I rightly guessed was the doctor, moved uneasily.
+
+"Doctor," I said softly, "are you awake?"
+
+"Yes," came the answer. "A small child has evidently mistaken me for
+its father or mother. Will you have it?"
+
+I feigned sleep.
+
+Other figures were snoring peacefully and emphatically, but the tiny
+inmates of my hay bed were painfully awake and sleep seemed banished.
+However, I must have slept again, for when I awoke the room was empty,
+except for Stephan, who was packing up. We had a wash in the stream
+and made a hurried breakfast, and were off by a fairly early hour.
+Stephan had found a horse, which must have come as a blessing to him.
+He had walked yesterday about thirty miles. The path was much better
+to-day, and we were enabled to make better pace. At a small village
+named Lijeva Rijeka we made a long halt to allow the doctor to
+transact some official business. We ate up what meat we had left, and
+had great fun with the village big-wigs.
+
+Strangers are beings of rare occurrence in the mountains, and we
+always came in for much "courteous curiosity." Dr. S. and Stephan
+enjoyed answering inquiries as to who we were immensely. One time we
+were engineers making plans for the new road; another time we were
+enterprising merchants about to open up the country; and once a man
+remarked, when he was told that I was the British Minister, "And wears
+patched trousers?" He referred to the knee pads of my riding-breeches.
+
+Our arms, as was only natural to this fighting race, attracted great
+interest. The carbines, of the Austrian Mannlicher system, invariably
+went the round to a chorus of delighted appreciation. Likewise our
+field-glasses, through which they would look for hours.
+
+Shortly after leaving this village we had a fortunately short but
+exceedingly steep hill to climb, which brought us on to a magnificent
+plateau of rich green grass, carpeted with wild flowers. From this
+point onwards the scenery changed completely. We were in the Alpine
+regions. It was very beautiful, the trees covered every hill with a
+mass of green foliage, and every here and there a snow-capped mountain
+peak would appear. Not only was the scenery different, but the
+dwellings of the peasants took quite another style of architecture;
+conical thatched roofs of a height out of all proportion to the size
+of the house, and a massive verandah or loggia built into the house,
+The inhabitants are snowed up for many months every year, and have to
+lay in great stores of food. But how delightful it must be here in
+winter! What an opportunity for snow-shoeing! The peasants can do the
+journey to Podgorica in about half the time on their primitive
+snow-shoes.
+
+The ride from here to Kolašin was nearly perfection. We skirted
+rushing mountain torrents, through woodland glades and soft green
+swards; the air was glorious and cool, for though the sun was powerful
+there was an abundance of shade. One drawback, however, a drawback
+sufficient to mar our happiness, was not denied us. Every mile or so
+we had to plunge through a quagmire, equal to the worst South African
+mudhole, which is saying a great deal. Much care had to be exercised
+to prevent the horses getting fairly bogged or breaking their legs,
+but all passed without an accident, though our condition at the end of
+the day was awful. We were bespattered from head to foot.
+
+Several halts at hans were made during the day for rest, food, and
+milk, and about three p.m. we struck the River Tara, and had crossed
+the water-shed of the Adria and the Black Sea. We followed the Tara
+till Kolašin, where we arrived about seven o'clock.
+
+Montenegrins have no idea of judging time and distance, which is
+curious. There is another favourite way of describing a distance: by
+cigar (cigarette) smoking. You will be informed that the distance is
+one cigarette, which means that the traveller has time to smoke one
+cigarette on the way. As an ordinary smoker consumes a cigarette in
+about ten minutes, the distance would seem small, but it is not so. It
+is better to reckon two hours. Quarters of hours and cigarette-smoking
+measurements take a lot of learning, and cause much vexation to the
+spirit before they are mastered. When the stranger has mastered them,
+he ceases to ask, and patiently waits. One word of warning to
+intending travellers. If you are told that the next village is _two_
+hours away, then rest awhile and eat and drink, for two hours means
+"X."
+
+About seven p.m. we clattered up the little street of Kolašin, which
+is the capital of the same-named district.
+
+It is a beautiful mountainous tract of country, as unlike to
+Montenegro proper as is the sun to the moon, richly wooded with dense
+primeval beech forests, full of rushing streams and rich pasturages.
+The little town itself is rather uninteresting; it has about 1,500
+inhabitants, all Montenegrin, for the Turk has almost entirely
+disappeared. Only in a ruined mosque and one or two dilapidated
+Turkish houses is the traveller reminded that once the Unspeakable was
+master here. The houses are all built with the afore-mentioned high
+conical roof and of substantial aspect.
+
+Our inn was a curiosity, and as we drew rein before it we noticed a
+crowd of men in the balcony of the first or top floor, for here the
+ground floor was devoted to stabling. Doctor S. hastily whispered that
+the Governor and General of Kolašin was one of the men upstairs. On
+going up the rickety stairs, we were at once introduced to him, and
+received most friendlily. He was a small wiry man, and reminded one
+strongly in appearance of Lord Roberts. Also, he spoke excellent
+German, having studied years ago in the Viennese Military Academy.
+Very kindly he promised to assist us during our stay in every way, and
+invited us to his house next morning.
+
+We overlooked the Market Square and had real beds, though the only
+available room was tiny. Dr. S. and Stephan slept somewhere else.
+After the heat of the valley, we found the air very keen up here;
+Kolašin lies over 3,000 feet, and is the highest town of any size in
+Montenegro.
+
+On the following morning we visited the Governor Martinović formally
+in his house. It is only recently that he has ceased to be the
+Artillery General of Montenegro, a post which he held all through the
+Turkish war, taking part in all the important engagements.
+
+His ambition is to see the road connecting his district with Podgorica
+finished, which would bring the two towns within a six hours' drive
+of each other, instead of the present two days' very hard riding. The
+benefit to Kolašin is obvious. At present the vast beech forests,
+literally rotting, could be utilised, for wood is dear in the barren
+districts of Montenegro. Pyrite, too, is found in great quantities. In
+fact, Kolašin is cut off from the rest of the country. Everything must
+be painfully carried on horses or mules, and for a woman, other than a
+peasant, it is a journey of great difficulty. Side saddles are things
+unknown, and we heard of one lady, the wife of a foreign minister, who
+bravely undertook the journey, spending six days on the way from
+Podgorica. The Governor gave us a graphic description of the
+difficulties that he had experienced when he brought his family up
+here.
+
+We also visited the local doctor, a most extraordinary individual with
+a crank. He had started a Montenegrin temperance society, called the
+"Band of Good Hope." At present, I believe, the three hundred odd
+members were all from Kolašin, and it was meeting with very little
+encouragement. The cultivation of plums for the manufacture of spirits
+is a staple industry, and these peasants wish to know what they shall
+do with their fruit. Besides, as the Montenegrins very rarely get
+drunk, it seems rather an unnecessary movement, and the Prince himself
+does not favour it.
+
+Bismarck once said that England's greatness began to diminish when the
+"three-bottle man" died out; perhaps Prince Nicolas has like thoughts
+of his hardy subjects, who certainly can consume enormous quantities
+of alcohol with impunity. Besides, it would destroy a large source of
+the revenue, which Montenegro cannot afford to do. In the meantime the
+gallant three hundred feel very unhappy.
+
+The few days that we spent in Kolašin were passed pleasantly in daily
+excursions into the surrounding country shooting, though with
+indifferent results. The Crown Prince Danilo's birthday came one day
+during our stay, and Governor, staff, and officials went to church
+attired in glorious raiment. They literally sparkle in gold lace
+embroidery, orders, and decorations, and for a gorgeous but absolutely
+tasteful effect commend me to the gala dress of the Montenegrin high
+official. It is the most artistic blending of gold, crimson, blue, and
+white.
+
+After the service spirits were served out free on the market-place
+(what agonies must the three hundred have suffered!), and a dance was
+formed. The national dance--in this instance the "kolo"--is usually
+performed by men, though the women do sometimes join in, and it is a
+slow and stately measure.
+
+[Illustration: THE KOLAŠIN MARKET PLACE]
+
+[Illustration: THE KOLO]
+
+The men place their hands on each other's shoulders and form a
+ring, which, however, is never completed. New men can join in, but a
+space is always left open. One step is taken sideways to the left, and
+then three to the right, and the movement is accompanied by singing.
+The singers are three or four men on the opposite horns of the circle,
+who alternately chant verses in honour of the Prince.
+
+The ring of men slowly danced their way from the Market Square to the
+Governor's house, where more spirits were given, and an accordion
+player joined the ring.
+
+Loud cries of "Živio!" followed the cessation of every movement. We
+followed and went in to the Governor, to offer our congratulations and
+drink His Royal Highness's health. The room was quite full, two or
+three men being rough peasants, relations of the Governor. There is
+very little class distinction in Montenegro. Often the humblest
+peasant can claim relationship with the Voivoda, or Duke, of the
+province, and will always be cordially received.
+
+We felt quite ashamed of our appearance--leather coats, collarless
+shirts, and so forth--amongst such rich costumes. The complete outfit
+of a Montenegrin dandy costs over forty pounds, and takes a bit of
+beating.
+
+Carefully tucking our rough riding-boots under our chairs, to avoid
+marking the contrast with our host's resplendent jack-boots of
+patent-leather, and buttoning up our coat collars, we endeavoured to
+make ourselves as inconspicuous as possible in this brilliant
+assembly. But in spite of our tramp-like garb, we were always highly
+honoured guests.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+Montenegro's oldest building--The ride to the Morača Monastery--A
+perilous bridge and ascent--The Abbot's tale--We inspect the
+monastery--The health of the King is drunk--The relative merits of
+Boers and Montenegrins--The Abbot makes us presents--We visit a
+peasant's house and a Homeric feast--A feu-de-joie--Departure from
+Kolašin--We are mistaken for doctors again--Raskrsnica.
+
+
+In Montenegro there are, strangely enough, with one famous exception,
+no buildings of any great antiquity. This, however, can be easily
+accounted for by the repeated invasions of the Turks, who ravaged the
+land with a merciless fury. Montenegro was the only Balkan state which
+they were unable to bring to obedience, and the struggle, which began
+after the battle of Kossovo, has, perhaps, not reached its final stage
+yet, though other enemies have supplanted the Turk.
+
+Far away in the heart of the mountains, and perched on the top of a
+high cliff, at whose feet the turbulent mountain torrent Morača races
+past, there is situated a monastery, which takes its name from the
+river below.
+
+This monastery is the only building that has escaped the scourge of
+the Turk, and, though often attacked, only once has it been partially
+burnt. Like its famous sister at Ostrog, it is constructed in a
+position where Nature has provided the best means of defence, and
+this the hand of man has skilfully utilised and improved. It was
+founded in the year 1252 by one of the sons of the famous Servian
+king, Stephan Nemanja, and dedicated to S. Nicholas. Right well has
+the saint watched over and protected his feof.
+
+During our stay at Ostrog the Archbishop of Montenegro impressed upon
+us most strongly the necessity of visiting Morača before leaving the
+country. He himself had lived there many years as the Archimandrite,
+and was besieged by the Turks during his sojourn within its walls.
+
+So, accompanied by a guide, with whom the Governor of Kolašin had
+provided us, we made an early start one morning for the monastery. We
+had a perfect ride through dense beech forests, skirting a noisy
+little stream, of which we were able to obtain a glimpse every now and
+then through a break in the trees. On either side of the ravine the
+hills rose steeply to some height. We soon passed a lonely cross in a
+small clearing, erected to the memory of five Montenegrins who had
+been surprised and murdered there by the Turks.
+
+It is always so in Montenegro, when the traveller is filled with a
+sense of peace at the grandeur of the wild mountainous scenery, or the
+beauty of a sylvan forest glade, a rough cross, or cairn of stones,
+will be pointed out where men have met a sudden and violent death.
+
+[Illustration: A TYPICAL ROAD]
+
+Once, as our path led up a steep incline, our guide told us
+graphically how that, a few weeks ago, both a horse and its rider had
+fallen down the one hundred feet into the river below. The path was
+very narrow, and he strongly advised us in passing to take care, which
+remark seemed slightly superfluous after the vivid description with
+which he had just favoured us.
+
+Crossing the stream we dismounted, and climbed to a small grassy
+plateau on which a church is being built for the shepherds of the
+district. It commanded a beautiful view. The path now ascended to a
+great height, and much walking had to be done, for a ridge of hills
+lay between us and our destination. At the top the valley of the
+Morača could be seen with a magnificent background of rugged
+mountains. A breakneck descent of two and a half hours, most of it on
+foot, brought us to the river, which was crossed by a picturesque and
+broken-down bridge. On a cliff opposite stood the monastery.
+
+While leading my horse over the bridge I chanced to rest for a moment
+on the central arch to enjoy the view. The guide, who was behind me,
+thrust me unceremoniously forward. It is not always safe to admire
+scenery from Montenegrin bridges. Certainly, on inspecting the bridge
+from below, he seemed to have shown no unnecessary caution. Two of
+the arches had completely given, and may collapse at any moment.
+
+A very steep and dangerous path leads up to the plateau on which the
+monastery is situated. It was nearly the cause of a serious accident
+to me, for my saddle gave, and began to slip backwards. Had the horse
+made one false step at this critical moment I should have been dashed
+over a precipice of eighty feet. Just before the gates stands a small
+inn, where we left our horses and proceeded on foot.
+
+The monastery strongly resembles a fortress, for the massive walls
+surrounding it are liberally loop-holed, and it can be entered from
+one side only. We entered a large courtyard with buildings on all
+sides. At the back a great mountain ascends obliquely, and in front an
+inaccessible precipice descends to the river. It was doubtless a tough
+morsel for the Turks in the olden days, though modern artillery would
+make very short work of it.
+
+The Archimandrite, or Abbot, soon came down and welcomed us most
+cordially, conducting us to his room, where we were regaled with the
+inevitable strong black coffee. He was a big, handsome man, with the
+long beard and hair which all the priests of the Greek Church wear.
+Quiet and benevolent as he looked, he is famed throughout the whole
+country as a mighty warrior; for in times of war the priests fight
+with the soldiers for their beloved freedom. Strangely enough, in
+the last war with Turkey he played an important role in saving the
+very monastery of which he is now the spiritual head. He was then a
+colonel, and commanded a battalion. The following story of the rout of
+the Turks is taken down from his own lips.
+
+[Illustration: THE MORAČA MONASTERY]
+
+In those years (1876-7) all this district was in the hands of the
+Sultan, and the Turks had just made an unsuccessful attack upon the
+Monastery of Ostrog. Their army, under the command of the famous
+Mehmet Ali Pasha, was retreating on Kolašin, pursued by the
+Montenegrins. On reaching the Monastery of Morača they halted with the
+intention of first destroying it, and Mehmet Ali placed a battery in a
+commanding position on the opposite heights for the bombardment.
+
+Unknown to the Turks, half a battalion of Montenegrins were stationed
+there as garrison, and the Pasha, thinking that he had but a handful
+of priests to deal with, sent down a small detachment to effect an
+entrance. The gate was opened, and they were enticed inside. Hardly
+had the last man set his foot within the courtyard when the
+Montenegrins fell upon them and beheaded them every one.
+
+The Turks, deeming all safe, sent a second detachment to assist in
+bringing out the booty, and they met with a similar fate. Then Mehmet
+began to suspect that something was wrong, and made preparations for
+a bombardment; but it was too late. A brigade of pursuing Montenegrins
+had come up. They fell upon him from flank and rear, and a horrid
+slaughter ensued.
+
+It must be confessed that the account seems incredible, and is,
+doubtless innocently enough, greatly exaggerated. But the worthy Abbot
+distinctly stated that out of 25,000 Turks only 2,000 or 3,000
+escaped. It was indeed "a terrible tale of a Turk that is ghastly and
+grim and gory." The Montenegrins were but men 1,800 strong, just three
+battalions, one of which was commanded by Michael Dožić, the Abbot,
+and his battalion it was that took the Turks in the rear, throwing
+them into utter confusion.
+
+To-day the peasants still find heaps of bones in the crevices and
+hollows of the rocks.
+
+After this very pleasant story, we descended into the courtyard, which
+is formed in a semicircle. In the centre stands the church. It is
+built in the shape of a cross, and its porch and interior are
+gorgeously adorned with the most quaint frescoes; indeed, every
+particle of the walls and ceiling is covered with frescoes of the most
+crude design and vivid colouring, and the altar-screen is
+magnificently gilded. The colours are well preserved, and seem as
+fresh as when the monks first laid them on, for the painting all dates
+back to the time of the foundation.
+
+It was somewhat horrifying to find that the frescoes behind the
+altar-screen were completely scribbled over. At first we put this down
+to impious tourists who delight in leaving their miserable names on
+the most historical buildings; but, on closer inspection, we found
+that they were copious notes in the form of a diary. The Abbot told us
+that Mitrofan Ban, the Archbishop, had written them during his lengthy
+abbacy many years ago.
+
+There is another church, or rather tiny chapel, within the monastery
+which is about a century older than the rest of the buildings, and the
+interior is likewise covered with frescoes of the same crude and vivid
+painting. They represent scenes from the life of S. Nicholas, and the
+chapel is only used once a year during the pilgrimage which takes
+place on the feast of their patron saint.
+
+Every year large numbers of Montenegrins flock to the monastery to
+offer prayers and offerings. Just outside the walls stands a small
+cannon, with a Turkish inscription, which four Montenegrins carried
+away one night from Kolašin when that town was in Turkish hands. Not
+only the bravado of such a deed, but the athletic feat of carrying
+such a weighty object over that difficult country, are very
+characteristic of this people. It is fired annually during the feast
+of S. Nicholas.
+
+The worthy Abbot was greatly annoyed to find that we had ordered food
+below, and still more when he heard that we were returning to Kolašin
+the same afternoon. He repeatedly urged us to spend a few days with
+him, but, enjoyable as the visit would have been, previous engagements
+forbade our acceptance.
+
+A second priest waylaid us as we were leaving for our meal, and
+carried us off to his room, where more coffee was served. He had
+travelled much in Turkey and the Black Sea, and we had a very pleasant
+conversation, but, after a short time, the pangs of hunger forced us
+to excuse ourselves. Our humble meal, which we partook of in the best
+chamber (and only bedroom), was hardly over when the young priest
+again rejoined us, bringing with him an enormous bottle of wine. Very
+solemnly he filled our glasses, and proposed the health of His Majesty
+King Edward VII. Our surprise was so great that we almost forgot to
+drink. And then came many questions as to the progress of the Boer
+war, questions with which, by the way, we were often assailed by the
+more intelligent classes during our travels.
+
+To quote an instance which happened to myself once in Cetinje. While
+waiting outside the monastery for the appearance of the Prince, who
+was attending divine service within, I entered into conversation with
+a gendarme. We spoke of many things, and to my surprise, for he was
+but an ignorant peasant, he inquired as to the progress of the war.
+He asked the nature of the country, on which subject I was luckily
+able to enlighten him. Parts of it are not at all unlike Montenegro.
+At this he pricked up his ears.
+
+"Thou hast been to the Transvaal?" he asked with increased interest.
+"Are the people brave like we are?"
+
+"They are brave," I said, "but not as ye are. They only shoot at long
+distances, and object very strongly to hand-to-hand fighting."
+
+The stalwart Montenegrin looked puzzled.
+
+"Shooting is good," he answered; and after a pause he added, "at
+_first_, but that is not fighting. It is an empty glory to shoot one's
+enemy, if one cannot prove it afterwards." I knew he was alluding to
+the decapitating process. "And then the wild charge, the cutting with
+the handjar when rifles are thrown away--_that_ is fighting."
+
+I explained that our soldiers loved the bayonet as much as the
+Montenegrin loved the handjar.
+
+"But what can you do when the other side won't wait for it?" I asked.
+
+"Then they are cowards," he answered judicially. "Are thy countrymen
+all as big as thou art?" he continued thoughtfully, feeling my biceps
+and scrutinising me closely.
+
+"Some of them are bigger," I said.
+
+"Then the Boers will have no chance," he said emphatically, and at
+this moment the Prince emerged from the church. This personal allusion
+to my size I took as a great compliment, for in a land where physical
+strength is an all-important factor candid appreciation of this kind
+is not meted out to one and all alike.
+
+Extremely fatigued after our early start and long ride, it was an
+effort to keep from falling asleep, and noticing this the priest left.
+We were both comfortably asleep in corners when the wretched landlord
+appeared with armfuls of sheets and pillows at the order of the
+priest. He cruelly woke us up and proceeded to make beds. After that
+all thought of sleep was gone. Furthermore, in dirty and dusty
+riding-clothes one has not the heart to lie down on spotlessly clean
+sheets.
+
+Soon afterwards the horses were ready, and we cantered up to the
+monastery to take our leave. But leave-taking was no such easy matter.
+Our pockets were filled with dried fruits, and after we were already
+in the saddle the Abbot presented us with packets of incense which he
+hurriedly fetched from the church. Waving him and the other fathers a
+last farewell, we started on our long ride back to Kolašin.
+
+During our rambles in Kolašin the doctor took us to a peasant's house
+whom he knew very well. This acquaintance proved one of our most
+pleasant recollections of the country. The head of the house was a
+fine-looking man, lean and active, and possessed many decorations for
+past acts of bravery in the field. His son was in prison at the time
+for some political offence, but his daughter-in-law and two little
+babies, besides two or three unmarried daughters and sons, were living
+with him. The whole family outdid themselves in courtesy to us, and we
+were, as usual, considerably embarrassed by the behaviour of the
+women-folk. Though we went several times to the house, they would
+rarely seat themselves while we were present, and invariably kissed
+our hands in coming and going.
+
+The doctor played games of cards with our host, but the united efforts
+of P. and myself failed to discover any method or system in the game.
+The doctor tried to explain at first, but after five minutes we begged
+him to desist. So we sat and looked on, drinking cups of black coffee
+and endeavouring to make friendly overtures to the babies, who openly
+showed that they considered us distinctly dangerous.
+
+The house itself was curious. The ceiling was low and the walls were
+of great thickness. The windows were so small that it was barely
+possible to squeeze one's head through the opening. The idea of the
+house is to obtain the maximum amount of warmth, for the cold of these
+mountainous regions is intense in winter. In summer, however, these
+houses are delightfully cool.
+
+The evening before our departure from Kolašin we were invited to an
+open-air feast at the peasant's country house.
+
+The "country house" was, it is true, only a rough wooden shanty, but,
+as our meal was outside, it didn't matter.
+
+When we arrived, after an hour's walk, we found a table set out with a
+white cloth and three wooden chairs on a green slope overlooking the
+valley of Kolašin. It was a delightful spot. Some little distance away
+the last few turns were being given to a lamb roasted whole on a spit
+over an open fire.
+
+The feast was soon served up. The entire lamb, on a great wooden
+platter, an enormous bowl of milk, eggs, sheeps' cheese, and unlimited
+spirits. The women-folk waited on us and kept our platters full. Other
+men with their wives joined us, not to partake of this Homeric feast,
+but to see us gorge ourselves. It may not be a nice expression, but we
+were literally forced to eat to an uncomfortable state of repletion.
+They took no denial, and even then the lamb was not nearly finished.
+These mountaineers eat meat only on great festivals, and consume
+enough to last them for the next few months. They did not realise that
+we were content with sufficient to last us for the next few hours.
+
+Our glasses, too, were kept replenished with the potent spirit of the
+land, and our respective healths were drunk, on the average, once
+every three minutes. When this began to pall they toasted each other,
+in which we had naturally to join, and these were followed by
+patriotic toasts. It was rather an uproarious evening.
+
+About ten we took our leave, and our hosts drew their pocket cannons
+and started firing; we naturally replied, and a deafening fusillade
+went on till every man had emptied his revolver. With singing ears we
+returned to our hotel to find the town alarmed, excited groups were
+congregated in the Market Square. Our _feu-de-joie_ was speedily
+explained, and the men flocked into the inn. As a slight return for
+the fright we had given them, we paid for a few quarts of spirits. The
+Governor overlooked our law-breaking, for after dark firing is not
+allowed, and no doubt he envied us in his heart, for, poor man, he is
+in the clutches of the Band of Good Hope, much, we heard, to his
+disgust.
+
+We left next day, and had a hearty send-off from the town, who turned
+out _en masse_ to witness our departure. The local doctor was not
+present. We had found no favour in his eyes.
+
+Shortly after leaving the town we passed the Montenegrin Militia, hard
+at their weekly drill. No uniform is worn, every man coming in his
+everyday clothes, bringing only his rifle. But they drill very well
+and the discipline is excellent. A company was being dismissed as we
+came up, and a large number accompanied us for a long way.
+
+The ride was magnificent that afternoon. The way wound up and up, and
+our last glimpse of Kolašin showed us the little town far away below
+us.
+
+The usual Montenegrin trick was again played successfully on us, the
+"only two hours' ride" developing into a journey of six hours. But
+to-day we did not murmur; it is only at the end of a long and trying
+day that this style of humour is out of place.
+
+For two hours our path threaded its way through dense beech forests.
+At one spot P. and I had ridden on so far in advance of the others
+that we dismounted and waited for them to come up. In the interval I
+was assailed by a man with a bandaged head. Doctors always wear
+European clothes in Montenegro, and without further inquiry, this man
+proceeded to sit down before me and remove his bandages, disclosing
+ultimately a ghastly eye.
+
+"What must I do for it, Gospodin Doctor?" he asked at length, for
+beyond the usual greeting he had not spoken. One glance was
+sufficient, and P. got up and left us.
+
+"Take it away!" I said, with averted face. "I am not a doctor, and
+never shall be."
+
+I felt him looking at me with his uninjured eye. These simple
+peasants are always under the impression that our modern education
+comprises that of medicine.
+
+"But, Gospodin, it has been like this for weeks," he went on, "and is
+very painful."
+
+"There is a doctor at Kolašin. Go to him. _He_ will be pleased."
+
+Evidently much hurt at my indifference, he slowly replaced his
+bandages and departed. Then our party caught us up, and we continued
+our way.
+
+Later on we emerged from the woods, and, still climbing, we rode for
+the remaining distance on magnificent grassy slopes far above the
+forest belt. Several snow-patches still lay unmelted in the shady
+hollows, and often far below us. From this ridge we obtained our first
+good view of the lofty Kom, the second highest mountain in Montenegro,
+and our ultimate destination.
+
+These great downs, across which we rode, had been only thrown open to
+the public, so to say, a few days ago, and were full of flocks of
+sheep and goats and large herds of cattle, grazing to their hearts'
+content after their long winter's imprisonment in the villages below.
+The Government fix the date when the shepherds may migrate into the
+mountain pasturages and when they must leave again for the lowlands.
+
+We overtook or met several parties of Montenegrins, and even Turks,
+for the border is not far distant, travelling from place to place. We
+were viewed with obvious interest, and invariably greeted with
+respect, though there is nothing of subservience in a Montenegrin's
+salute. He feels himself in no way your inferior as a man until you
+have proved your superiority in shooting or physical strength.
+
+In this part of the country Dr. S. always told the peasants that we
+were engineers, as a road is being contemplated.
+
+About seven p.m. we branched off from the main path, and descended on
+foot a steep path into a thickly wooded valley. In a clearing of the
+trees stood a collection of wooden huts, a summer village of
+shepherds, called Raskrsnica.
+
+It was our halting-place, and as our visit had been notified, we were
+received by a schoolmaster and taken to his hut, which was placed at
+our disposal.
+
+No schools are held during the summer months, and the teachers often
+turn shepherds, as in this case, and migrate with their flocks to the
+mountains.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+A typical mountain hut--Costume of the north-eastern borderers--Supper
+and a song--We go out hunting, and cause excitement--The Feast of
+Honour--We ride to Andrijevica--Andrijevica and our inn--The
+Voivoda--We go to church--Turkish visitors--Alarums.
+
+[Illustration: OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA]
+
+
+It was nearly dark by the time that we were unloaded and had got our
+traps into our hut. As half our time was spent in similar
+constructions during our mountain tour, it may be as well to describe
+them now.
+
+They are usually built entirely of wood, rough, irregularly hewn
+planks, and no attempt is made to make them air-tight; often great
+crevices gape, through which a hand can be put. The roof is generally
+fairly water-tight. A man _can_ stand up-right in the middle, but the
+roof slopes steeply down to the sides. The word "can" is used
+advisedly, _i.e._ if one is able to breathe the densely smoky
+atmosphere at the top. Chimneys or outlets in the roof to permit the
+smoke to escape are unknown, and when cooking is going on, or at night
+when a roaring fire is kept burning, the appearance of the hut from
+outside gives a stranger the impression that it is on fire, and that
+the flames must burst out at any moment. It leaks smoke at every
+crevice.
+
+Inside is an open space reserved for the wood fire, and a primitive
+arrangement, often a chain suspended from the roof, for hanging the
+cooking pot. A few blocks of wood serve as easy-chairs, beds there are
+none, an armful of rushes or grass, which is usually damp, serving
+their purpose. On entering, the new-comer will first cough violently,
+then choke, and finally make a hurried exit to the fresh air.
+Summoning courage and with a fresh supply of oxygen, he dashes into
+the hut again, and throws himself on his heap of rushes. As the smoke
+rises, the atmosphere on the ground is less dense, but the penetrating
+smell of the burning wood is sufficiently strong to make his eyes pour
+with water. These are first impressions; later on, he can even sit up,
+and after a few days will be able to walk comparatively slowly in and
+out of the hut.
+
+Usually at the back is a small partition, behind which a rough shelf
+can be found, laden with the day's milking and cheese. The whole
+family sleep in the hut, no division separating the men from the
+women. But the Montenegrin peasant sleeps in his clothes, so privacy
+is considered unnecessary.
+
+Dr. S. was here officially to inspect the flocks, and had an
+appointment with the district captain. He was not there, and shortly
+after our arrival a man turned up, delivering a message from the
+captain, somewhat in the following fashion.
+
+"Sir, it is my privilege to be the bearer of the captain's message.
+The captain would have you know that he will do himself the honour to
+meet you here to-morrow in the early morning."
+
+The man stood smartly at the attention and saluted at the conclusion.
+
+It is extraordinary the grandiloquent language which even the most
+humble peasant will use, and he speaks with the polished ease of a
+gentleman.
+
+The baggy blue breeches and red jackets are not worn in these regions,
+and are replaced by white woollen tight-fitting trousers and jackets,
+bordered with black braid. In fact, the dress strongly resembles that
+worn by the Albanians, except that the black braid is narrower and
+less elaborate, and the national cap of Montenegro is carried instead
+of the white head-cloth or fez. The costume is national, and has not
+been altered to that of the Montenegrin proper, because it is
+considered warmer. The first time that Prince Nicolas visited his new
+subjects a man said to him in that characteristically familiar way in
+which the Prince's subjects are wont to address him:--
+
+"Gospodar" ("Lord," and the universal form of address for the reigning
+Prince), "wilt thou not exchange thy blue breeches for our white
+trousers. They would suit thee better."
+
+The answer of the Prince is not recorded.
+
+Stephan called us into our shanty when the evening meal was ready. Our
+host wished to slaughter a lamb, but we deferred that till the morrow,
+and we ate what we had brought with us. It was, barring the smoke, a
+delightful experience, and its charm never diminished. That hour spent
+before turning in, after supper, when the tobacco tins circulate, and
+the shepherds crowd in from the neighbouring huts, made an impression
+which it will not be easy to forget.
+
+The fire, with its dancing flames and uneven light, shows up the ring
+of men squatting round it. Everything beyond is shrouded in
+impenetrable gloom, throwing out the wild picturesque figures, with
+their bronzed and honest faces, in bold relief. The ruddy glare rounds
+off all hard corners and softens every inharmonious line, flashing
+fitfully here and there on a steel revolver barrel. The musical voices
+rise and fall, and outside the stars are shining. All is peace and
+calm.
+
+That first evening a young shepherd, strikingly handsome, with
+clean-cut features, went outside and sang a wild Albanian song in our
+honour, his weird chanting echoing in the mountains. Then came a
+crackling of pistol-shots from the near distance, a novel way of
+applause. With very happy feelings we rolled ourselves in our great
+coats and went to sleep.
+
+Next morning we rose at five, and had a delightful wash in a stream of
+icy-cold water. As usual, our ablutions caused much amusement. The
+mountaineer contents himself with a ladle of water poured into his
+hands. Very shortly afterwards the captain arrived. He insisted on
+going out shooting with us, as well as the schoolmaster. We plunged
+into the forest and were soon deep in the excitement of stalking.
+
+P. was with the captain, and the schoolmaster and myself soon lost
+them. Later on, I too lost my companion, and it being near our
+advertised time for dining, I made my way back, which presented very
+little difficulty. On coming in view of the clearing I was received
+with shouts. Not being gifted with the Montenegrin skill at hearing
+and talking at great distances I walked on, and was ultimately able to
+distinguish the question as to where I had left P. I answered that I
+had not seen him for hours, and passed on to our hut.
+
+The excitement seemed to wax, and Dr. S. speedily enlightened me as to
+the cause. Both the captain and the schoolmaster had returned, _i.e._
+they had stood and talked from a hill about a mile away, saying that
+P. was lost.
+
+"Well," I said, "P. knows at what time we eat, and I have never known
+him to be late for a meal yet. And it is in an hour's time."
+
+"But the woods are dangerous. There are bears. The Albanian frontier
+is not far away. He can lose himself for hours," were among the
+remarks that I could hear.
+
+"Considering that he has a magazine carbine and a revolver, I don't
+think that we need be afraid. It is easy enough to find one's way
+back, and P. will have the sense to watch the sun. He has been out
+alone before in his life," I remarked, feeling rather irritated.
+
+Then an old lady began abusing me for having deserted him, "and he so
+young, a mere child," etc., until I fairly lost my temper.
+
+"You must not take it amiss," explained the doctor, who knew me. "It
+is only their love for you."
+
+"Thanks," said I. "But that is enough. If that old lady doesn't stop
+expressing her love for me shortly ----. Look here, doctor," I
+continued, waxing wrath, "you stop her. You understand the more
+talkative sex better than I do. I'll stop the men."
+
+About ten minutes before dinner P. turned up, serenely unconscious of
+the trouble, telling us how he had found a delightful shepherd, who
+had carried him off to his shanty and feasted him on bread and milk,
+but that he was still ravenously hungry. The incident did not close
+here either. When P. heard of the anxiety caused by his absence he
+took it as a personal insult to himself, and began abusing everyone
+in his turn. But all the same, the people remained obdurate, and we
+were never left alone, though they let us ramble whither we wished.
+
+Our dinner that day was a kind of feast of honour to the captain. The
+lamb was served, as usual, whole. Half a dozen men joined us besides
+our party. The doctor, P., and I had knives and forks and a plate
+apiece.
+
+"Help yourself to all you want at the beginning," said the doctor
+kindly. "Take as much as you think you can possibly stow away."
+
+We were glad afterwards that we had followed the doctor's advice, for
+when we had finished helping ourselves the men fell upon that lamb and
+rent it limb from limb with their horny hands. Montenegrins have not
+pretty table manners. Forks are superfluous, a hunting-knife will do
+for the bread, and spoons are only used for fluids, when they dip in
+the common bowl.
+
+That evening we went out shooting in another direction, and were amply
+rewarded for an exceeding tiring climb, although deer were not
+abundant. In fact, the moment that the shepherds take possession of
+the mountains, game nearly always disappears, returning with the peace
+and solitariness of the autumn.
+
+On the following day we left Raskrsnica at an early hour _en route_
+for Andrijevica, which lies at a considerably lower altitude than
+Kolašin. Consequently we had a lot of downhill work. We had another
+magnificent view of the Kom on our way, but otherwise our ride of
+about six hours was uneventful. Andrijevica is first seen from a great
+height, and really looks quite close.
+
+"Half an hour," said our guides, "will see us in the town."
+
+The descent was of a breakneck description, and had to be done on
+foot. The heat was tremendous, and, the way proving to be an hour and
+a half, our tempers suffered. It was about noon when we rode into the
+little town or village, for it is nothing more, though the capital of
+the Vasović district, Montenegro's most eastern and consequently most
+dangerous possession. It borders on Gusinje, the wildest and fiercest
+of Albania's clans.
+
+The office of the Governor, or Voivoda, to give him his proper
+Montenegrin title, corresponding to our word Duke, is therefore no
+sinecure. His position calls for more diplomacy and acumen than any
+other in the country. A false move, a thoughtless action or word could
+plunge the tribes of Northern Albania and Montenegro in a fierce
+warfare. But a few weeks after our departure, war very nearly did
+break out at Mokra, over a dispute as to the rights of a small
+grazing-ground, and was only averted at the last moment. Then
+Andrijevica was full of troops, for 25,000 Albanians stood fully armed
+on the border, and a pistol-shot would have started an invasion of
+Montenegro.
+
+[Illustration: ANDRIJEVICA]
+
+The little township is prettily situated on a slight eminence at the
+junction of the Lim and the Perušica, the former a tributary of the
+Danube. It has a population of five hundred clad in the white Albanian
+dress, and is celebrated, rightly or wrongly, for the beauty of its
+women. Certainly our landlady was a pretty enough looking woman of
+most refined manners. The men are very fine-looking fellows. The
+country all round is magnificent.
+
+Our inn was also the town bakery, and we had a nice large bedroom well
+stocked with flies, and real beds, though in daytime it was the dining
+and drawing-room combined.
+
+Really many of the inns we visited in Montenegro could be aptly
+described by the song sung in London a few years ago of a coster
+describing his home. He informed the audience that if they wanted to
+see his library, his kitchen, or his best spare bedroom, "You just
+stops where you is." In slightly more grammatical language, it could
+be well applied to these hostels.
+
+Towards evening we were taken and presented to Voivoda Lakić Voivodić,
+who was sitting in semi-state before the house of a rival
+drinking-place.
+
+He had a remarkably strong face, and was of powerful build. Speedily
+we were introduced to his adjutant, the town captain, and other
+officials, and a great circle was formed of which we were the centre
+of attraction. Our arms were brought out and examined with great glee
+and appreciation; also our field-glasses came in for their usual share
+of admiration, and our clothes were likewise carefully overhauled.
+
+When we laughingly said that we hoped for some sport with the
+Albanians and perhaps to shoot a few, our popularity was complete; our
+backs were clapped, and a great scene of joy and enthusiasm took
+place. Such remarks are liable to be taken rather literally in this
+region.
+
+We gave the Voivoda and his adjutant a dinner one evening, the best
+that we could manage, though it certainly was not the kind of feast to
+which one would ordinarily invite a Duke.
+
+Being five of us, our table was not big enough, so we joined on a
+second smaller and lower table at which the doctor and P. sat. P. put
+a salt-cellar between the upper table and the lower, saying that as
+they now sat "below the salt," they could behave as they liked. It was
+a most uproarious meal, and later on the Voivoda retired to a bed
+which was just behind him to laugh himself out.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH PARADE]
+
+On Sunday we went to church--at least we went _to_ the church and
+met the Voivoda outside. It was a very hot day and the little edifice
+was crowded. We had a suspicion that the worthy Voivoda came late on
+purpose. He just glanced at the crowd which had overflowed into the
+open space before the door, and to the relief of his staff proposed a
+quiet cup of coffee instead. Under the shade of the trees, discreetly
+apart from the merrymakers who were celebrating the Mass of a departed
+comrade, we sat in the customary ring and were served with coffee. It
+was a pleasant hour, and as the Voivoda, who was a bit of a wit, if
+somewhat irreverent, said, "This is better than inside."
+
+The church was about a quarter of a mile from the town and lay almost
+hid in a beautiful wood. The bells, as is often the case, were hung
+about a hundred yards away from the church on a wood scaffolding, and
+on the green grass sat many groups of Montenegrins.
+
+The occasion was a feast. Mass was being said for the soul of a man
+who had recently died, and it is the custom for the dead man's
+relations to give a feast to all comers. Large dishes of roast lamb
+were being handed round to the men who sat in circles, the women
+eating apart, and much spirit was drunk. About six priests were also
+present, feasting.
+
+We had altogether a very merry stay in Andrijevica, and the men of
+Vasović are sturdy, honest, fearless, and excellent companions.
+
+Once, as I was admiring an old pistol worn by a man who was visiting
+us--for men were continually dropping in on us at any hour, in a most
+unceremonious fashion--he promptly took it off and gave it to me. It
+had been carried thirty years by a priest, he told me, before it came
+into his possession, and had killed at least twenty men. Afterwards I
+gave him a present of six florins.
+
+There are no police in Andrijevica, but the population take their turn
+to patrol the town at night with rifles. This is not to keep order
+amongst themselves, but as a guard against an eventual raid of
+Albanians. Crime is unknown in this mountain town.
+
+One afternoon we were startled to see half a dozen Turkish officers
+ride into the town, accompanied by an escort of Turkish soldiers, all
+fully armed. They were proceeding to Gusinje, where fighting had been
+taking place and many men had been killed. It is very curious to
+observe the way that the Turkish and Montenegrin authorities visit
+each other, for the intricate formation of the border often
+necessitates the traversing of a small portion of the other's country.
+Owing to the danger, everyone goes fully armed. The greatest possible
+harmony reigns between the Turks and Montenegrins, as the formidable
+array of Turkish decorations which adorn the breasts of all
+Montenegrin border officials will testify. The Albanian is the only
+cause of trouble, and it is chiefly against him that the Albanian
+borders are garrisoned by Turkish troops.
+
+In the above-mentioned border dispute, the Turks sent down a
+formidable army to assist the Montenegrins and prevent an incursion
+into a friendly state. Truly things have changed very much, for it was
+not so very many years ago that Albania held aloof when Turk and
+Montenegrin were fighting. Their sympathies, if for either side, were
+with the Montenegrins, and now the hated Turk throws himself into the
+balance for Montenegro.
+
+No man goes any distance unarmed. A rifle is part and parcel of his
+being. So it is that visiting Albanians carry theirs too, and it is no
+uncommon sight to see eight or ten Gusinje men, conspicuous by their
+white head-cloths, rifles slung over their shoulders, and a girdle of
+cartridges, come into Andrijevica to market, or perhaps even to
+consult the Voivoda on a question of blood-guilt.
+
+No one knows in these parts when an alarm will be given, either by
+trumpet-call or rapid magazine firing, and each man must be ever
+prepared to hurry to the appointed rendezvous at a moment's notice. If
+he be guarding his flock, eating at home, or carrying produce to the
+market, it is the same; his rifle must be ready to his hand and
+everything left standing to answer the call to arms. Life is very
+real on these turbulent borders, and a chance dispute may assemble a
+brigade of Montenegrins and a horde of Albanians, each ready to attack
+the other on the spot. The shepherd private knows where to find his
+section commander, the latter, on completion of his section, meets his
+company officer, companies assemble, battalions form, and the brigade
+is ready within an hour or two.
+
+Such is the state of affairs to-day along the whole Albanian frontier,
+but nowhere to such a degree as in the provinces bordering on Gusinje.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika--The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story--We arrive at
+Velika--The men of Velika--The ménu--Border jurisdiction--A
+shooting-match--The Kom--Pleasant evenings--A young
+philosopher--Sunset.
+
+
+One evening the Voivoda invited us to ride with him on an official
+visit to Velika, an offer which we eagerly accepted.
+
+Velika is a narrow strip of Montenegrin territory lying practically in
+Albania, or rather Gusinje, for the men of Gusinje owe and give no
+allegiance. Velika is not cut off from Montenegro, but the mountain
+connecting it with, so to speak, the mainland is steep and almost
+inaccessible, besides entailing a long and weary détour of many hours.
+Therefore our path to-day would lead us across an intervening strip of
+Gusinje territory.
+
+Next morning at an early hour saw us in our saddles, the Voivoda
+having first ascertained that our arms were in good order. "Not that
+there is any danger," he said. "But we never know if anything may
+happen, and it is well just to be prepared."
+
+Besides the Voivoda, we were accompanied by his adjutant, a
+lieutenant in the standing army, who had studied in Italy, and an
+escort of about six men, armed with modern magazine rifles. Later on,
+this escort was materially increased.
+
+About three hours' ride up the magnificent valley of the Lim brought
+us to a khan, and here we found another half-dozen men awaiting us,
+and another officer. These preparations seemed rather formidable for a
+journey of about an hour through a friendly country, but we knew
+already the uncertainty of the Albanian temper, and did not wonder.
+
+As we led our horses across a rickety wooden bridge, the Voivoda
+called to us and said we were now about to enter Albania, and spoke of
+the temporary armed alliance between England and Montenegro, which
+remark seemed to please him greatly. A great cairn of stones marked
+the border, and the adjutant reined in his horse, for we were going to
+ride in single file, to tell us that it would be better to unsling our
+carbines. "It looked better," he said. Many Albanians could be seen
+working peacefully in their fields, and huts dotted the
+mountain-sides. It was a scene of agricultural peace, enhanced by
+magnificent scenery.
+
+Suddenly, at some distance, two rifle-shots were distinctly heard, and
+the calm of the picture was as rudely and suddenly disturbed as if an
+earthquake had happened. The peaceful peasants stooped, throwing away
+the spade, and in exchange each had a Martini rifle in his hand, which
+he rapidly loaded from the bandolier of cartridges round his waist.
+Men rushed out of the slumbering cottages, and a great shouting
+commenced.
+
+"It is nothing," said the adjutant. "They become excited like this
+very often."
+
+But I noticed our escort closing in, and every man's face wore a look
+of great interest. Still we rode on, just as if nothing unusual were
+happening.
+
+To our left the hill ascended to a great height, and about one-third
+of the way up a belt of trees commenced, stretching to the top.
+Towards this wood ran hundreds of Albanians, and disappeared from
+view. I confess that I had a most uncomfortable feeling that I was
+being covered by many unseen rifles. We should have stood a poor
+chance had they begun firing at us, for there was practically no cover
+near.
+
+But our pace, that of a smart walk, neither increased nor decreased,
+and it ill became me to show my innermost feelings to these fearless
+mountaineers who so evidently considered this sudden excitement a most
+everyday occurrence.
+
+The noise of the shouting, however, continued, and was answered by men
+in all directions. It was a regular pandemonium of yelling fiends, for
+the Albanians are not beautiful to look upon.
+
+Suddenly a man appeared from some bushes close to our little party and
+headed straight for us, running like a deer.
+
+He had barely reached us and seized my stirrup leather, on which he
+hung, panting heavily, when from the woods emerged a pursuing crowd,
+brandishing their rifles as they ran. Within a few minutes we were
+surrounded by about a hundred and fifty Albanians, whose gestures were
+not to be misunderstood.
+
+They wanted to kill the man at my stirrup, who looked beseechingly up
+to me for protection. Why he selected me I have no idea, and I did not
+relish the compliment at all. Our escort formed a meagre ring around
+us, and we were forced to halt.
+
+"Are they going to shoot?" I asked the adjutant, who was next to me,
+in excusable excitement, "because if so, I would like to dismount."
+
+It was not a pleasant feeling, perched up on a horse within fifty
+yards of reputed good marksmen.
+
+"Oh no," answered the officer, "they only want the man, not you."
+
+"Still, you are not going to hand back the man, are you?" I asked in
+Italian.
+
+"We must hear what the Voivoda says," said the adjutant, shrugging his
+shoulders.
+
+I looked at the man, while an excited conversation was carried on by
+our party and the Albanians, and found him a pleasant-looking young
+man; his breath was coming in great gasps from his heaving breast, but
+otherwise he showed no traces of excitement.
+
+"Save me," he said in broken Serb. "They fired at me as I was working
+in my field. I am blood-guilty."
+
+All this time his pursuers were evidently debating if our lives must
+be sacrificed as well, for to shoot the man meant killing some of us
+at any rate.
+
+At this juncture several Albanians came to us and ranged themselves on
+our side, and amidst still greater excitement we began again moving
+forward.
+
+"It is all right," laughed the adjutant, who throughout preserved the
+same air of utter indifference. "They daren't shoot, the cowards, and
+we shall take him to Velika with us, and then decide what to do with
+him."
+
+"You don't seem to mind this sort of thing much," I said, "but for a
+beginner like myself it appears rather nervous work."
+
+"Oh no," he answered. "I live here, and have been in many border
+fights. They always make a noise like that, and they very seldom shoot
+at big people."
+
+"But if they do?" I queried.
+
+"Oh, well, we must all die once," he laughed.
+
+In another half-hour we passed the second landmark, and were informed
+we were again in Montenegrin territory. Our friendly Albanians left
+us, and rifles were more carelessly carried.
+
+"What hast thou done?" I asked the fugitive at my stirrup. "Tell me
+thy story."
+
+"I am a doomed man; my days are numbered," he said, smiling, and
+rolling a cigarette. "But life is sweet, and I wish to live a little
+longer."
+
+Strange, this man who was at death's door barely an hour ago, was
+smiling and smoking happily as he walked by my side. He had a most
+fascinating smile and laughing eyes, and now that the immediate danger
+was over he had forgotten it.
+
+"Some months ago in my village, many hours from here, a woman fell in
+love with me," he said. "She was beautiful and I loved her too, but
+not so much as she loved me, for I feared her. She hated her husband,
+who beat her. One evening she came to me when her husband was away and
+told me that she loved me and that we would fly together. 'I love thee
+as I hate my husband, and see, if thou wilt not do this, I will break
+my spinning-wheel before thee.' And I trembled, for now I knew that my
+life was doomed. For should I not take her, she must kill me as sure
+as there is a God in heaven, and if I fled with her, her husband and
+his relations would surely track me down. And she was very beautiful,
+and we must all die. So we fled here that same night. What could I
+do?" he asked, smiling again.
+
+[Illustration: VELIKA]
+
+"But why stay here?" I asked.
+
+"Because," he answered, "my brothers live here and I must stay here
+till I die. If I am not to be found, then my brothers must die for me.
+It will not last long, for there are many bags of money on my head. My
+enemy is a rich man."
+
+"But," he went on, "wilt thou ask the Voivoda, who is a good man, to
+give me a magazine rifle and some cartridges? See my rifle, it is old,
+and I have but five cartridges left. For thee he will do it, and so I
+can die fighting a good fight, and perhaps can kill two or three of my
+enemies first. To-day I have wounded one."
+
+"I will ask the Voivoda," I replied, "though I doubt if I have any
+influence with him. Ask him thyself."
+
+I did ask the Voivoda, but he said the thing was impossible. He had no
+rifles to give away. But our fugitive continued his request at
+intervals for the rest of the time that he was with us.
+
+At Velika, a collection of half a dozen houses, very charmingly
+situated in a valley, we halted and rested for many hours while the
+Voivoda transacted business and received reports from a very young
+officer who held this dangerous command. We commented on his youth,
+and were told that his father, recently dead, had held the position,
+and that he had inherited it. "Besides," continued our informant, "he
+is quite up to his work."
+
+As we dismounted, our escort unloaded their rifles, the snapping of
+locks and breeches bringing the excitement of the last hour or two
+vividly back to our memory.
+
+The men of Velika were fierce-looking and of great stature. Rifle,
+handjar, and revolver were carried by all. Our escort were equally
+fine men, that fearless look so characteristic of the Montenegrin
+race, being accentuated here. Yet the faces are pleasing, honest, and
+good-tempered. There is to be found in the world no more splendid
+specimens of fighting humanity than the Montenegrin borderer. Brave,
+reckless to a fault, with absolutely no fear of death, inured to every
+hardship, and able to live and thrive on the barest fare, they are
+typical of the old Viking, chivalrous and courteous, with the purest
+blood of the Balkans flowing in their veins.
+
+Our meal was sumptuous. Fish shot in the river by one of our escort on
+the way, a bowl of ground maize cooked in oil, raw ham, eggs, bread,
+cheese and onions, the whole washed down in draughts of fiery spirits.
+Not a feast, I grant you, in an epicurean sense, but highly acceptable
+in Montenegro. We were waited upon by two women, who were always most
+careful to leave the room backwards. Our meal was very jolly, and at
+its conclusion we took corners in the room and slept. About three p.m.
+we started again for home, taking the fugitive with us.
+
+He had decided to return to his farm, but as we neared the Gusinje
+strip of land where he lived the extreme nervous tension of the
+morning returned to him. Poor devil, it would be difficult to forget
+the sharp sighs which burst from him, when his control over himself
+left him for a moment, but it was with a smile and a cigarette between
+his lips that he left us, bounding over the ground like a deer.
+
+In all probability he is dead by now.
+
+In Gusinje we made a lengthy halt, while the Voivoda settled several
+boundary disputes between the inhabitants, our escort taking up
+commanding positions all round us and keeping a very sharp look-out.
+
+It would seem that the Voivoda has right of jurisdiction in this strip
+of land, though how we were unable to elicit. At any rate Albanians
+came and stated their cases, bringing witnesses, and amongst great
+noise the Voivoda gave his judgments, which seemed to be final.
+
+On re-entering Montenegro we dismounted on the bank of the River Lim;
+the Voivoda pointed out a stone on the opposite side about three
+hundred yards distance, and taking a rifle he fired at it. In a few
+seconds we were all shooting at it in turn, the Voivoda acting as
+umpire with the aid of my field-glasses. It seemed a risky thing to do
+in a country so easily alarmed, but no rapid firing was allowed.
+
+The shooting was moderately good.
+
+As the last shot had been fired, and some of us already mounted, a
+corporal from Andrijevica came up at a trot, bringing a telegram for
+the adjutant. It contained the notification of his promotion to a
+captain.
+
+This led to a salvo of revolver-shots and cheers, and we proceeded on
+our way.
+
+At the first khan (Morina) we stopped for coffee, and found two or
+three hundred men assembled under the command of the district captain.
+Had anything happened to us, revenge would have come very quickly.
+Here our additional escort left us, and our long ride home was
+commenced, which ended in the dark.
+
+It was a nasty ride, for both P. and Stephan's horses came down
+repeatedly, and the path was constantly about two hundred feet above
+the Lim. It requires care in the daytime, but in the uncertain light
+of evening it was distinctly dangerous. Both horses were done up, and
+Stephan lost his temper, and we saw him in his true colours, as
+he kicked and beat his unlucky animal. It was not till I took very
+energetic measures that he would stop, which amused the Voivoda
+immensely.
+
+[Illustration: MORINA]
+
+[Illustration: THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA]
+
+[Illustration: THE VASOJEVIĆKI KOM]
+
+[Illustration: ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVIĆA]
+
+P.'s horse was ill--in fact, it was his last journey. A few days
+afterwards he died from inflammation of the lungs, contracted at
+Velika that day.
+
+We went for a few days' shooting on the Vasojevićki Kom, and were
+handed over by the Voivoda to one called Vaso, a rich peasant of the
+district. He swore to be answerable for our safety, with his head and
+all that was his, and we lived with him for many days on the side of
+the mighty mountain.
+
+The shooting was not good, however; it was not the season, but
+otherwise our stay was very pleasant. The grassy plateau was about
+five thousand feet high and bitterly cold at night; below us, on
+either side, stretched great beech forests, and the Kom rose abruptly
+before us.
+
+Our hut was large and roomy, but draughty to an extreme. At night the
+icy wind whistled through its crevices, and we had to bury our heads
+in blankets. The whole family shared it with us, and in one corner
+stood an unwearied calf, too tender to brave the cold of the outside.
+
+Those evenings which we spent round the fire are impossible to
+describe adequately. Tired from a long day's tramping and sliding
+through the forests, often wet to the skin from heavy showers, the
+peace and warmth of that camp fire were delightful.
+
+The shepherds came from far and near, and asked us many questions: if
+we carried an apparatus for making banknotes (this is not meant as an
+insult, but a common belief that Europeans can fabricate their
+paper-money at will--a belief of which we had sadly to disillusionise
+them); if our glasses could show us Belgrade, and so on--questions
+sometimes so difficult to answer that we had to give them up. Then
+they would talk of themselves; the older men would tell of past deeds,
+of fighting and bloodshed, and the fitful glow of the fire would light
+up their animated faces and picturesque costumes.
+
+Great simple children they were, unknown in the art of lying, and yet
+they repeat stories of bygone battles and slaughter, which they have
+heard and believed, as gospel truth. Like Esau, with the smell of the
+field upon them, they love to listen, too, to stories of unknown
+lands, where the houses are even larger and finer than those of
+Cetinje or Podgorica, which towns many even have not seen; but too
+much of the outside world one cannot tell them, for then they look
+hurt at being deemed so childish. They are curious, too, as are all
+children, and love to examine the clothes which we strange foreign
+creatures wear. There they sit on the hard earthen floor, as happy and
+contented as princes, nay, more so, for they have no cares to trouble
+them. They proffer us their tobacco tins, accepting ours in return,
+touching their caps as they do so; then the cigarette, deftly rolled,
+is lit by a glowing ember, which they rake from the fire, and the now
+burning cigarette is handed to us to light from. Again we all touch
+our caps, for it is rigid etiquette, in accepting a light, to
+acknowledge the courtesy by a half military salute. In the corner the
+calf will moan, and we, now half asleep, will stretch out our weary
+limbs, draw our coats and blankets over us, and to the murmur of the
+now subdued conversation, find forgetfulness in sweet sleep.
+
+I remember a conversation with a boy of about fifteen, who was out
+shooting with me, and acting as my guide and beater.
+
+It was nearing sunset, and we sat and rested on a ridge which
+overlooked both sides of the valleys.
+
+He asked me so many questions that I asked him if he had never even
+been to Podgorica.
+
+"No," he said, "I shall never go."
+
+"Why?" I asked.
+
+"Because I am content here. If I went to that great town, I should be
+ashamed of my ragged clothes. I should want to buy the beautiful
+things which they tell me are to be bought in the shops, and not
+having money I should be sad. No; it is better never to have seen such
+magnificence."
+
+"But," I argued, "if thou goest to Podgorica, thou wouldst find work.
+Even I could get thee employment."
+
+"No," he repeated; "my home is in the mountains. In time I would have
+to return here, and I should be miserable with the remembrance of
+those happy days."
+
+This boy had been taught at the school, and he told me the capitals of
+the great countries, which were nothing more than empty names to him.
+He knew, also, a few words of German, about two phrases, though how he
+picked them up was hard to make out.
+
+He liked to ask me questions about England, Montenegro's friend in
+past times of trouble, and seemed surprised to hear that I had seen
+snow before I came to his land.
+
+His father said that the boy was stupid and a dreamer, but I thought
+differently of him.
+
+P. joined me, and together we watched the sunset. On our left towered
+the Kom, and running in an unbroken chain circled a mountain range,
+ending in the setting sun. Low down an angry bank of clouds hung over
+the distant peaks, and into this mass of black and grey the sun, in
+all its glory of yellow and gold, sank slowly. The hills between us
+seemed wild and mysterious. Away to our left, in gloomy confusion, the
+Albanian Alps reared their heads, lit here and there with a red gleam
+of sunlight. At our feet, shrouded in impenetrable blackness, lay two
+steep ravines. The sun sank, leaving a weird eerie feeling behind, and
+we found ourselves strangely cold.
+
+We spent many days with Vaso, shooting with indifferent results, but
+revelling in the glories of nature.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+We leave Andrijevica--Our additional escort--The arrival at our
+camping-place--In an enemy's country--The story of one Gjolić--Our
+slumbers are disturbed--Sunrise on the Alps--We disappoint our
+escort--"Albanian or Montenegrin?"--A reconnaissance--The Forest of
+Vučipotok--The forbidden land--A narrow escape--We arrive at
+Rikavac--Rain damps our ardour--Nocturnal visitors.
+
+
+We left Andrijevica finally one morning about eight a.m. for our many
+days' ride along the Albanian frontier to Podgorica. Everyone turned
+out to bid us farewell, from the Voivoda, who expressed his regret
+that we had seen no one shot, downwards. The Voivoda's son and a small
+party accompanied us to the outskirts of the town, where a quaint
+notice-board bears the inscription that, on pain of a fine, shooting
+is forbidden within the prescribed limits.
+
+Here, after much hand-shaking and promises to come again, we mounted,
+and drawing our revolvers, replied right merrily to the farewell
+volleys of our friends. It is a pleasant custom that--shooting at
+parting.
+
+[Illustration: THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS]
+
+We rode for two or three hours along the Perušica valley till we came
+to a small and scattered village, Konjuhe, where we dismounted for a
+rest. It was the birthplace of the Voivoda, and his brother still
+lived there. He was immediately sent for. When he heard of our
+proposed tour, he insisted on our taking an additional escort (besides
+Dr. S., and Stephan our servant, we had engaged another man, named
+Milan, in Andrijevica) of at least two men, as the country was just
+now in a very dangerous condition. The necessary guard was soon found,
+and after a long halt owing to a heavy shower, we were able to proceed
+on our way, first carefully loading our rifles and overhauling our
+revolvers. Our two men were quite celebrated for a famous raid into
+Gusinje, in which they had played an active part a short time ago.
+They had killed several Albanians, and captured two hundred sheep. As
+the Albanians would shoot them at sight, they seemed hardly fitted to
+act as an escort; but then every man from that part is engaged, more
+or less, in a blood feud across the border.
+
+We commenced climbing almost directly, and the ascent lasted for the
+rest of the day. The scenery was grand. On our right the majestic Kom,
+still covered with snow; falling away precipitously to the left was
+the deep ravine of Terpetlis, through which a mountain torrent dashed;
+and rising high on the other side, and forming the boundary between
+Montenegro and Albania, was a magnificent rocky ridge. We dismounted
+at one point to breathe our horses, and made our midday meal off wild
+strawberries.
+
+Further on we passed from the Vasović into the Kuć. These two, the
+most warlike clans of Montenegro, were formerly under Turkish rule,
+and bitter foes. But when war broke out, they forgot their old enmity
+and joined hand-in-hand with Montenegro to drive out the still more
+hated Turk. Since then they have lived together in peace and harmony.
+
+On nearing our camping-ground for the night, our two guards ran on to
+draw the fire from any concealed Albanians, while we followed more
+leisurely. The scenery was wild in the extreme, though differing very
+slightly from that which we had experienced during the last few weeks.
+Great woods stretched half-way down the mountain to the torrent, and
+up again on the further side. Immense boulders, with an occasional
+tree growing out of a crevice, and every here and there clumps of
+firs, every yard affording excellent cover for a hidden enemy.
+
+Our destination was Carina, a collection of stone huts on an open
+green slope, which reaches up to the rocky sides of the Kom. It is the
+highest point inhabited in Montenegro by the shepherds in the summer,
+and lies over five thousand feet above the sea-level. During this
+period of the annual migration to the hills, the district is
+comparatively safe. The Albanians do not attack large parties, but
+rather stragglers, as larger numbers have an unpleasant habit of
+organising themselves into avenging bands to repay the visit with
+interest.
+
+Not a soul was to be seen anywhere, not a living being of any
+description. In a shower of pelting rain we took possession of the
+largest hut. It is decidedly annoying to get thoroughly wet at the end
+of a long day, and the prospect of a night in damp clothes was in no
+way pleasing. The hut was damp and cold, and it had the chilly feeling
+which only comes from a long period of emptiness, and strikes to the
+marrow. But our men turned to with a will, cleaning out the hut,
+strewing it with very wet rushes, and piling up a big log-fire in the
+middle. We were pretty hungry, too, a couple of eggs at six a.m. and a
+few strawberries at midday are not much to go on, and we had been in
+the saddle for over ten hours. Stephan had brought amongst other
+things some raw bacon, which he gave me, but, hungry as I was, I could
+not face that. Later on, a happy thought struck me, and I went and
+toasted it over the fire. I do not recollect ever relishing food so
+much in my life. About a couple of hours later a lamb had been
+roasted, and we were able to make a decent meal.
+
+It was getting rapidly dark now, and watch had to be kept outside. The
+horses were picketed close at hand for fear of wolves, as well as
+Albanians. By the time that we had finished eating, night was upon us.
+It was pitch dark and no moon. Rather reluctantly I turned out to do
+my share of sentry-go in the bitter cold. But it was decidedly
+interesting, as one of our party began to tell stories of the usual
+blood-curdling nature. On emerging from the hut, I thoughtlessly
+remained standing for a few seconds in the low doorway which, as the
+fire was blazing brightly inside, showed up my figure strongly against
+the surrounding gloom. Before I knew where I was I was roughly seized
+by a man and thrown forcibly into the darkness. He intimated that I
+must be a fool to court death in that manner. For all we knew, he
+said, a dozen Albanians might be hiding around us and waiting for such
+an easy shot. And when I was not allowed to smoke, I realised that we
+were in an enemy's country.
+
+Watch was kept all night by two men, one sitting on the roof, or on an
+elevation which commanded it, and the other patrolling round with a
+sharp eye on the horses. The roof must always be watched, for the
+Albanians usually creep up and climb on to it--it is always
+conveniently low--they then remove a board and shoot the sleeping
+inmates.
+
+During my watch I was told the following story, which brings out many
+interesting traits of the Montenegrin character.
+
+A certain man named Gjolić, of the tribe of Vasović, killed two men of
+his clan over a love affair, and promptly fled to Gusinje, the country
+just opposite Carina, and inhabited by a tribe of Albanians, famed
+for their blood-thirstiness and hatred of strangers. The only passport
+to their land is crime, and no one but a fugitive from justice can
+hope to enter, or leave it, alive. Gjolić swore to have revenge on his
+clan, and in this respect he was a notable exception. He came
+repeatedly across the border, often in broad daylight, shooting anyone
+whom he met. He soon became the terror of the whole Vasović. In the
+neighbourhood of Carina he had shot many shepherds, and last autumn he
+murdered a youth of sixteen. This was too much, and two men laid their
+heads together. To obtain the necessary right of entrance to Gusinje,
+they crossed over into Turkey and deliberately stole a cow, taking
+care at the same time that they should be arrested and sentenced to
+punishment. Their plan acted admirably, and they effected their
+escape, fleeing to Gusinje, where they were received in a friendly
+manner. But Gjolić was away, and for six months they waited for him in
+patience. At last news came that he was on his way home, and could be
+expected on a certain day. So the men went out to meet him, and began
+shooting fish in a river where he must pass. Fish shooting is a common
+and favourite sport of the people.
+
+"God help you," said a voice, "has your luck been good?"
+
+It was Gjolić who spoke.
+
+"Our luck is good," they answered, and following an imaginary fish
+with their rifles, they turned on him.
+
+Crack! Crack! Gjolić was dead.
+
+That scene I shall never forget. The starless night, all round the
+land lying enshrouded in impenetrable darkness, the low voice of the
+Montenegrin which rose with his excitement, but sank again immediately
+to a hoarse whisper, and on the barely discernible roof of the hut a
+black figure, with rifle at the ready, sitting motionless.
+
+It was eleven o'clock when I turned in, and the next man took his
+rifle and went outside to relieve one of the watchers. A roaring fire
+was kept going, for it was very cold, and round it lay the others
+sleeping, each with his rifle and revolver by his head. "And we are in
+Europe!" I said to myself, as I lay down to sleep, which, in spite of
+the mighty snoring of Dr. S., came almost immediately.
+
+It seemed but a few minutes since I had closed my eyes when a shot
+rang out, bringing me to my knees in an instant. It is not advisable
+to rise quickly in these huts without taking the roof into
+consideration, as I had learnt by bitter and repeated experience.
+Everyone awoke, except Dr. S., who snored on peacefully. However, I
+roughly awoke him, and we all dashed out, rifle in hand.
+
+One of our sentries stood peering into the gloom, and swore that he
+had seen a figure moving. We lay down and waited, but nothing came.
+
+Then slowly the day began to dawn, and with it our anxiety diminished.
+I went to get a cup of coffee, preparatory to climbing a part of the
+Kom. One of our guards, of course, accompanied me. That is the worst
+of these districts, we could never move a step without being followed.
+It was like being under police surveillance. Furthermore, I should
+have preferred to climb with a good stick; but no. Again that iron
+control ordered me to take my carbine, and loaded too.
+
+We reached a high ridge just in time to see the sun rise, and it lit
+up the snow-clad mountain-tops with an indescribable beauty. But so
+much has been written about the splendours of Alpine sunrises that it
+is needless to say more about it. Yet it was as beautiful as anything
+to be seen in Switzerland or the Tyrol. The ridge commanded a view in
+both directions. The Albanian Alps and the mountains behind the Morača
+lay before us in one vast panorama, the latter looming up so close
+that it was difficult to believe that so many days' hard riding lay
+between us.
+
+After climbing one of the lower peaks, we descended again to our hut,
+which we reached shortly after six. Everyone was busy, washing,
+packing up, or even sleeping, which is an equally important business.
+To snatch half an hour's sleep here and there is an enviable art, and
+cannot be overrated. But, perched on a low stone wall, sat a guard all
+the time. Daylight does not imply safety.
+
+After breakfast, luxurious with toasted bacon, I emerged from the hut
+to find an excited group outside, one of whom was even lying down and
+aiming.
+
+"He is watching us. It is far better that we should finish him now
+than allow him to go on and report our movements," said the man,
+fingering his trigger lovingly.
+
+On looking I saw an Albanian about six hundred yards away, half hidden
+behind a boulder. The idea of shooting a man in this way did not seem
+quite sporting, and Dr. S. agreed with me. The men were extremely
+disappointed at our refusal to allow them to shoot. "He will follow us
+till we reach the wood," they said, "and then we shall repent it." The
+Albanian shortly afterwards disappeared, and we proceeded with our
+packing.
+
+About eight o'clock we left Carina, and had rather an unique
+experience in riding across several large snow fields which were quite
+hard, though the horses decidedly disliked the experiment. About an
+hour's ride brought us to a tiny church, solidly built of stone and
+standing on a ridge overlooking the whole country. It is used by the
+shepherds who migrate annually to the pasturages in this district.
+Only a few months ago the Albanians had broken into it and utterly
+dismantled it. On the iron door and on the shutters huge dents and
+even bullet splashes were plainly visible. Our Albanian we found here
+awaiting us, which was a plucky thing to do. Our guards hailed him
+with the cry of "Albanian or Montenegrin?" But he answered, "Friend."
+I think that our men showed him our rifles rather ostentatiously, and,
+as we were all armed with magazines and had plenty of ammunition, he
+must have thought that we should scarcely afford the desired sport. We
+did not see him again, though he took the same path which we were
+going to take. This incident put us very much on our guard, and we
+made preparations for the further journey with mixed feelings. Before
+us lay the dense wood of Vučipotok, which is the most ill-famed spot
+in Montenegro. It stretches unbrokenly down to Gusinje, and the bridle
+path which traverses it is the border line between the two countries.
+
+It was then settled that a guard and myself should climb a small hill
+overlooking the wood and its approach. However, we saw nothing, and
+soon rejoined our party. Before entering the wood, in the open, were
+two or three stones erected to murdered men--it is customary in
+Montenegro to put up either a pile of stones or a slab of rock where
+the body has been found. Inscriptions on the stones are very rare, the
+Vučipotok is too dangerous to waste much time in it, but wherever
+these stones are seen, a dead man, as often as not headless, has been
+found. Such memorial stones are to be found all over the country, but
+not in such plentiful profusion as we saw them now.
+
+Everyone dismounted, and with rather uncanny feelings we entered the
+forest. First of all went one of our escort, and then in single file,
+about ten paces apart, we followed. Rifles were held at the ready, and
+every boulder and tree carefully scanned. The path was atrocious,
+strewn with great stones, so that walking was no easy matter. When a
+particularly large boulder was reached, we would halt under its
+shelter to enable the horses to come up--they were following behind
+under the charge of one man. We did not exactly stroll through that
+wood.
+
+Every few paces stood a memorial stone. There was one put up to the
+memory of ten Montenegrins who were all shot down without seeing their
+enemy. Everyone shoots at sight here, and had we met our Albanian
+friend of the early morning, matters would have gone sadly with him.
+At one point I insisted on taking a photograph--much to everyone's
+disgust. The spot was where a famous Kuć general had been murdered.
+His head was taken in triumph to Scutari. Oddly enough, we ate our
+midday meal at his grave, for his friends took his body away from
+here and buried it in an open place directly overlooking the valley of
+Gusinje. I was rather hurried over the operation, as the Montenegrins
+distinctly objected to standing still, but they were all very tickled
+about it.
+
+[Illustration: THE PATH THROUGH THE VUČIPOTOK]
+
+The Vučipotok is used by young Montenegrins as a means of showing
+their bravery. They go straight through it alone, with their rifles
+over their backs, smoking cigarettes. This constitutes an act of
+reckless daring in their eyes. Some even go through, at some distance
+from the path, on the Albanian side. We met one young man leading his
+horse and strolling along as unconcernedly as though he were in
+Cetinje--so that we almost felt that we were being unduly impressed
+with a sense of danger. But afterwards we met another party who were
+proceeding with greater caution than we were. And then there were
+those memorial stones.
+
+At last the wood ceased, and in a clearing we made a halt. Our
+Montenegrins looked relieved. For themselves they have no fear, but
+had one of us been hit, the disgrace for them would have been
+unspeakable. It would have necessitated a raid into Albania of the
+most extensive kind, and hundreds might have fallen; the Montenegrins
+guard their visitors as they guard their honour, and in that case,
+life is only a secondary matter.
+
+We now climbed a very steep hill. At the top we had to dismount, as a
+narrow path, just wide enough for a horse, skirted along a great
+precipice, looking straight down about one thousand feet. It was a
+wonderful view, but not to be recommended to those suffering in any
+way from giddiness.
+
+We overlooked the great Vučipotok wood through which we had just
+passed, and the whole valley of Gusinje. When we reached a place where
+we were able to turn round with comfort, we stopped for the view. A
+long, narrow valley, inclosed by the Procletia or "Damnable
+Mountains," through which a river could be seen flowing, lay at our
+feet. This was Gusinje, the forbidden land. With the aid of
+field-glasses the town of Gusinje itself could be just distinguished,
+a square and apparently walled-in town.[4] Very picturesque it looked
+in the bright sunshine, the great green woods in the foreground, the
+solemn and majestic snow mountains and the peaceful valley. Yet it is
+inhabited by the most villainous and treacherous cut-throats in
+Europe, an absolutely untameable tribe, who would die to the last man
+to preserve their independence.
+
+[Footnote 4: This, however, is not the case, as we afterwards learnt.]
+
+When the path broadened out slightly our two guards left us and
+returned home. Both emptied their magazines into the air at parting,
+which we answered, and the din was tremendous. Below us was a small
+village or collection of shepherds' huts, and, in that moment,
+confusion reigned supreme. The men seized their rifles, the women
+rushed into the huts, dogs barked, and horses stampeded. It seemed
+rather thoughtless to thus alarm the village, but, on being
+remonstrated with, the men only laughed and fired another shot. Had it
+been a town below us the result might have been more serious.
+
+A little further on, we stopped for rest and food at a narrow pass
+overlooking Gusinje on the one side and Montenegro on the other. The
+murdered Kuć general, whose memorial stone we had seen earlier in the
+day, was buried here. Strange that his body should find its last
+resting-place overlooking the home of his murderers.
+
+By using the Montenegrin telephone (the art of talking at great
+distances), we ordered some milk from the village below, and drank it
+with that enjoyment which is only known to a thoroughly hungry and
+thirsty man.
+
+Our afternoon's ride was again particularly stiff. Climbing one hill,
+Dr. S., who was leading, missed the path, a very easy thing to do, so
+undefined as it sometimes is. He got on to a very steep and rocky bit
+of the hill and his horse lost its footing. It began stumbling and
+slipping about in a most alarming manner. We held our breath for the
+next few seconds, for a long fall was in store for him, and certain
+death. He tried to dismount, and succeeded in getting off his horse,
+but his foot stuck in the stirrup, the horse still sliding on.
+Fortunately, the animal recovered its balance, and Dr. S. extricated
+himself, but it was a nasty moment. That is the worst of the
+Montenegrins; they rely so implicitly on the sure-footedness of their
+ponies that they ride up anywhere, only condescending to dismount for
+very steep descents. And accidents often happen when horse or man, or
+even both, are killed; but this presumable laziness affords no example
+to others.
+
+About five p.m. we began anxiously inquiring the whereabouts of our
+night quarters. The usual Montenegrin _quart d'heure_ was given--and
+rightly enough. A sharp descent, lasting over an hour, made painfully
+on foot, saw us in a great hollow basin among the mountains, with the
+pretty lake of Rikavac at the further end and a small collection of
+wooden huts.
+
+To these we proceeded and were met by the village Fathers. Dr. S. was
+well known here and they had recognised him coming down. Five dear old
+boys they were, who kissed Dr. S. most affectionately, one unshaven
+old ruffian including me in his salute. I do not appreciate the
+Montenegrin custom of kissing among men; it is not pleasant. An empty
+hut was immediately put at our disposal. It was the most primitive
+and tumble-down habitation that we had had as yet. Of course it
+rained. It was almost the first rain on the trip, and we had to lie up
+here a whole day as P. was unwell and unable to ride. Everyone turned
+out to make the hut comfortable, but it was not a success. I lay down
+outside and promptly fell asleep, when a sharp thunderstorm came on
+and drove me inside. There was not a dry corner to be found. The rain
+came through in steady rivulets everywhere. There was no getting away
+from those persistent little streams, either head, body, or feet had
+to suffer--and the fire refused to burn. Added to that, the whole
+population crowded in to look at us. It was no fun at all Stephan
+stood cursing in German that he could not get near the fire to cook,
+and that he would not cook at all if the mob were not cleared out.
+This Dr. S. refused to allow, as it would be considered inhospitable.
+
+In course of time the rain stopped and our visitors left us, but only
+temporarily. Stephan cooked and we went outside to dry ourselves. The
+food was then ready, and after putting away a good meal we were able
+to view the world with more equanimity.
+
+After supper it came on to rain again and damped us thoroughly before
+going to bed. I was very annoyed to find, after having discovered as I
+fondly imagined a dry corner, that one of my pockets was full of
+water. I should not have been so irritated had my tobacco been in
+another pocket; it was a leather coat and held the water beautifully.
+Then we tried to go to sleep. My pillow was a stone, like Jacob's, and
+though I tried covering it with my coat it was of no avail, since the
+cold forced me to put it on again. I do not mind a hard bed, but a
+hard pillow is distinctly objectionable. We were just on the point of
+sleeping when in stalked two men for an after-supper smoke and chat,
+and one of them, to P.'s intense disgust, sat on his feet. It cost Dr.
+S. all his diplomacy to hint that we had been up since three a.m. and
+were disinclined to talk.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+More memorial stones--We get wet again--Unwilling hosts--A fall--The
+Franciscan of Zatrijebać--The ravine of the Zem--Methods of settling
+tribal differences--A change of diet and more pleasant evenings--A
+fatalist--Sunday morning.
+
+
+Punctually at eight a.m. next morning we took an affectionate farewell
+of the Fathers, though I mounted hurriedly first to avoid the
+repetition of the welcoming chaste salute.
+
+Our path lay for two hours over a rocky and barren country similar to
+the naked Katunska district round Cetinje. Gone were the rich green
+pasturages and wooded valleys in exchange for a waste of grey rocks.
+But a large wood was ultimately reached, only a little less dangerous
+than the wood of Vučipotok. Similar precautions were observed in
+passing through--in fact, our carbines were carried loaded again all
+day. The Albanian border was never more than a rifle-shot away.
+Numerous gentle reminders of the dangers of the path existed in the
+shape of memorial stones all the way along. We met several families,
+all fully armed of course, driving their flocks before them to the
+mountain grazing-grounds of the Kom.
+
+It was about one o'clock when we emerged on a large barren plateau.
+On the further side, just across the border, lay the Albanian village
+of Korito, which Dr. S. knew, and where we intended spending the rest
+of the day and night.
+
+Half-way across, a sudden storm of rain and hail came down, and I have
+never got wet through so quickly in my life. Within five minutes, the
+water was running out of my boots. My leather coat, though waterproof,
+let regular rivers down my neck. It was a rain that would not be
+denied, and icy cold.
+
+In that waterspout we sat and waited while Dr. S. hunted up his
+friends; but apparently they had all left, with their flocks. A few
+Albanians appeared, and by the dint of much persuasion Dr. S. induced
+them to show us an empty hut. As soon as they had done this they left
+us, looking at us in an unfriendly and suspicious manner. We got our
+baggage in as quickly as possible, and by this time we were shivering
+with cold. No wood could be seen, and Dr. S. again sallied forth, and
+by the aid of small bribes some wood was brought and we soon had a
+fire burning.
+
+However, our natural buoyancy rose again with the fire, and we made a
+very light meal off the food that we had with us. It was not more than
+a few mouthfuls apiece, but nothing could be got here. Then we
+solemnly stood round the fire and dried ourselves, the steam rising
+like pillars of cloud, and hiding our figures from each other. The
+warmth was very agreeable and comforting.
+
+Several Albanians now crowded in, examining our arms, and were so
+unfriendly, not to say threatening, that we hastily reconsidered our
+plans. Firstly and foremostly, we had no food, watch would have to be
+kept all the time, over the horses and at the hut, using up two men,
+so the prospect was not pleasing.
+
+So we saddled up and left about three for Zatrijebać, four hours'
+distance, happy to be rid of our unwilling hosts.
+
+The difference between the treatment of strangers by Albanians and
+Montenegrins was very marked.[5]
+
+Our path led us through the great wood of Kostice, and, owing to the
+recent heavy rain, the track, never very plain, was in parts entirely
+obliterated. Twice we lost ourselves, and once more a drenching shower
+came on, repeating the morning douche. Still we plodded on with
+stumbling horses over the slippery way till we emerged on the great
+plain or plateau of Zatrijebać. Zatrijebać is an Albanian clan several
+thousand strong who live under Montenegrin rule. They serve as
+Montenegrin subjects in the army, give no trouble except in occasional
+border fights with rival Albanian clans, and their bravery is
+proverbial. Further, they are Roman Catholics. The country is most
+curious, great slabs of stone lying about in a promiscuous fashion as
+if it had once rained them, and the path was certainly the most vile
+of the whole trip, which is putting it as strongly as possible.
+
+[Footnote 5: I have since learnt differently.--R.W.]
+
+It was climbing or rather scaling a small rock that my long-expected
+fall came. Alat, my horse, floundered badly at an angle of forty-five
+degrees and lost his balance completely. The doctor, who was behind,
+shouted to me to pull him up, but as I was sliding off his back with a
+broken girth at an ever-increasing velocity, I was unable to follow
+this very excellent advice. Down I came heavily on the stones, luckily
+on the high side of the path, landing on my back with my legs all
+mixed up in Alat's. My saddle and saddlebags followed me in quick
+succession, and something hit me violently over the head--that was my
+carbine. Providentially Alat stood still, and my cartridge belt saved
+my back.
+
+I got up when I could sort out my legs, making remarks to Dr. S. about
+that girth which he said afterwards were quite artistic. Many, many
+years ago the girth may have been good and strong, and it had
+undoubtedly seen better days. Next I sought one named Stephan. He had
+always assured me that it would last another week. Montenegrins are
+careless about such things.
+
+The rest of the way I had to walk, which dried me, as the path was
+steep and tiring. At the house of Dr. S. in Podgorica we had met a
+young Franciscan monk, a Neapolitan and a great student. He at once
+invited us to visit him in Zatrijebać, where he is the spiritual
+shepherd, and to spend a few weeks with him. On approaching a roofless
+church, in the course of rebuilding, we espied this young monk rushing
+to meet us. With all the fervour of his race, he embraced and kissed
+us repeatedly, welcoming us to his home. He gave me his bed, and the
+other remaining one was put at P.'s disposal, and he would not hear of
+our leaving next day or the next.
+
+There are but two other Roman Catholic churches in Montenegro, in
+Antivari and Dulcigno,[6] in fact only where the Albanians are in
+sufficient evidence.
+
+[Footnote 6: The Austrian Legation in Cetinje has also its own
+chapel.]
+
+We had intended to visit Zatrijebać at the beginning of our mountain
+tour, but the district was considered unsafe at that time. A quarrel
+over the appointment of a new captain had led to the relations of the
+disappointed candidate shooting the brother of the new captain. Two
+boys, aged fifteen and sixteen respectively, had ambushed their
+victim, and put no less than seven bullets into him at a distance of
+four hundred yards, which is pretty good shooting. The boys got away
+across the border, but wholesale arrests took place, and it is not
+well to visit districts thus excited. The young Franciscan repeated
+to us the story that evening round the kitchen fire, where we spent
+very many happy hours. He spoke of it sadly.
+
+"The vendetta is a terrible thing," he said. "It respects neither the
+laws of God nor man."
+
+Our host would not rest till he had shown me the famous view, and Dr.
+S. accompanied us. As one stands outside the church, a magnificent
+panorama is spread out, seemingly without a break. But should one wish
+to ascend the mountains opposite so temptingly near, a great ravine
+must be first descended. Ten minutes' walk brings one to the edge of a
+precipice 2,400 feet deep, so appalling and so sudden that one's
+breath is momentarily taken away. It is a spot to sit and meditate on
+the grandeur of the work of the Master of all architects. The majesty
+of that mighty ravine is, indeed, awe-inspiring.
+
+At the bottom, a mere tiny thread, flows the Zem, a river which has
+often run blood, and whose source is hardly known as it rises in the
+unknown Procletia, "the Accursed Mountains" of history. A wall of
+mountains rises beyond. Steep and precipitous as is the descent on the
+Zatrijebać side, still a path trodden daily by mountaineers winds and
+zigzags down to the bottom. Then as we seated ourselves on a carefully
+selected and safe ledge and gazed on this unique picture, the monk
+told us of a bloody battle fought not so very many years ago by the
+men of Zatrijebać and the clan of Hotti who inhabit the opposite
+mountains. It was a quaint illustration how questions of boundary
+lines are settled without the aid of expensive Courts of Arbitration.
+
+When the new frontier was laid down at the conclusion of the late war,
+the River Zem was Montenegro's limit. On the hill beyond lies a
+grazing-ground which has been used as a summer pasturage by the
+Zatrijebać from times immemorial. Though technically now belonging to
+Albania, and in particular to the clan of Hotti, the Zatrijebać still
+continued to drive their flocks across the ravine. The Hotti
+remonstrated, and finding this of no avail, took possession of the
+plateau. Their opponents coming over found the rival clan posted in a
+seemingly impregnable position on every point of vantage on that steep
+ascent. Though armed with inferior rifles (in those days), they
+attacked at once, and by reckless bravery came to hand-to-hand
+conflict. Then a terrible encounter ensued, men seized each other and
+threw themselves over the cliffs, and to complete the utter
+discomfiture of the Hotti, the Kuć came to the assistance of their
+neighbours and the Hotti were nearly annihilated. Since then no
+questions have been asked, and annually the cattle and sheep of
+Zatrijebać graze in peace in Albania.
+
+It was a very similar dispute which has happened so very recently at
+Mokra near Andrijevica.[7]
+
+Supper gave us a much needed change of diet. Boiled fowl and
+vegetables came as a luxury after days of tough and stringy lamb. We
+sat at a table again too, on chairs, and felt quite ashamed of our
+recently acquired habits.
+
+The evenings round the kitchen fire were just as delightful as our hut
+experiences, and if possible, more novel. Here we had fierce
+Albanians, with their half-shaven heads and scalping lock, and a
+scholar, a student of philosophy, a man of wonderful ideals, in the
+form of the young Franciscan, instead of unkempt shepherds.
+
+[Footnote 7: Since writing the above another tribal disturbance has
+taken place between the Zatrijebać and the Hotti. This time it was the
+Hotti who drove their flocks, also from time immemorial, to a certain
+spot in Zatrijebać, and as the latter tribe have since cultivated the
+intervening ground, they felt justly irritated. As the only real
+argument is the rifle, they met and argued the point in this fashion
+in February, 1902, and many fell on both sides. A notable incident
+which is worth recording is, that a man of Hotti fought on the side of
+the Zatrijebać against his brethren and was killed. His body was
+afterwards handed back and his clan demanded to know if he had fought
+as a man. "In the front rank," was the answer. Then they took the body
+and gave it an honourable burial and agreed to let the dispute drop.
+In this action our friend the monk had his habit riddled with bullets
+whilst attending the wounded.]
+
+Round the fire another evening an argument as to the wrongs of
+Fatalism, _i.e._ God's Will, led to a characteristic story by the monk
+in defence of his views. Dr. S., like many men who lead such lives as
+he does, was a rigid fatalist.
+
+An Albanian found his enemy in vendetta, working in a field. Hiding
+himself, he prayed to God and S. Nicholas to direct the bullet.
+
+"Lord," he prayed, "should I hit this man in the breast, then I shall
+know that I do this deed by Thy Will."
+
+He laid his rifle on a stone, took careful aim, and the other fell
+dead shot through the breast.
+
+"By God's Will I killed him," he answered, when the priest endeavoured
+to impress upon him his crime.
+
+The lighter side of nature was given us by another story.
+
+Shortly after the priest's arrival at Zatrijebać a half-naked man came
+to him. The worthy friar took pity on him and gave him a clean white
+shirt of his own.
+
+On the following Sunday during the Mass, as he turned to his
+congregation to give the Benediction, to his horror he saw the man
+with the shirt drawn over all his ragged clothes, in a front row. It
+was with the greatest difficulty, he concluded, that he could restrain
+a smile.
+
+We were afforded a novel and striking scene before we left Zatrijebać
+in the form of an open-air Mass on Sunday.
+
+The church being in the course of rebuilding, a rough altar had been
+hastily constructed, or rather knocked up--for it was of most crude
+workmanship--of wood planks on a small grass plot.
+
+From nine a.m. onwards the people began to assemble, coming from all
+parts of the large and straggling district, and sat about in groups
+gravely talking. Towards eleven o'clock a large number of peasants had
+arrived, and the altar was covered with not a fair white cloth as
+usual, but with something suspiciously resembling a long and not
+overclean towel. A tiny crucifix was placed upon it, and the young
+priest robed himself there in sight of the whole congregation.
+
+A group of elder men knelt or squatted on the small open space
+immediately in front of the High Altar, but the majority of
+worshippers ranged themselves under the shade of some small trees and
+on the low surrounding walls.
+
+These same trees bear weekly a strange and incongruous fruit, for they
+are used as pegs whereon the Albanians hang their rifles during
+service. All round, the walls are stacked with rifles, for, like the
+Puritans of old, they come to church fully armed with rifle, handjar,
+and revolver, and round their waists, the inevitable bandolier of
+cartridges.
+
+[Illustration: AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAĆ]
+
+On approaching the altar every man pushed back the cloth which is
+swathed round his half-shaven head, and kneeling, piously crossed
+himself. The older men displayed even more reverence, and kissed
+the earth. The younger men were much the same as their cultured and
+civilised brothers, lounging through the service, half seated on a
+wall, and barely crossing themselves.
+
+But the general effect was one of great reverence and striking in the
+extreme. We watched this strange congregation with great interest, and
+during the most sacred part of the service, when all, even the blasé
+young men, prostrated themselves, the effect was unique.
+
+Picture a cut-throat, shave half his head, leaving a tuft of hair on
+the back by which he kindly assists his victor to decapitate him,
+expecting a like consideration in return, long drooping moustachios,
+clad in Turkish clothes, a belt full of cartridges, with revolver and
+murderous-looking yataghan artistically displayed--of such was this
+congregation. Men who half-an-hour afterwards would shoot an enemy in
+the course of a vendetta, or otherwise, without any thought of
+remorse. Yes, and coolly cut off his head and bring it home to his
+admiring wife and daughters, now so discreetly and respectfully
+kneeling behind them. This is not an over-drawn picture. It happens
+often.
+
+Of such consisted the congregation under the green trees, blue sky,
+brilliant sunshine, in that perfect landscape this Sunday morning. And
+of such is peopled a part of the vast country of Albania. A people
+who hold human life as nothing--a reckless and brave nation of devout
+Roman Catholics.
+
+At the conclusion of the service we came in for a lot of inspection,
+and going in to dine soon afterwards we chanced to look out of the
+window overlooking the scene of the morning Mass. Still a great crowd
+hung about, and on the late High Altar sat men smoking cigarettes.
+After dinner we bade farewell to our young host, amidst honest regrets
+on both sides. The Franciscan had given us a new insight into the
+mysteries of life.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Kećo's story--The laws
+of Vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
+Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
+birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly.
+
+
+"At Fundina," said Dr. S., "you will meet one of the modern heroes of
+Montenegro. A man named Kećo, whose fame has reached to the uttermost
+ends of the land."
+
+We had bidden farewell to our host and were riding past the last
+houses and huts of the clan of Zatrijebać on our way to Fundina. The
+path tended downwards, and shortly the great plain of the Zeta burst
+suddenly into view as we rounded a corner of the mountains. Beyond lay
+the Lake of Scutari with its background of mountains.
+
+It was early in the evening when we reined in our horses before a
+modest stone house and dismounted. It was Fundina, a straggling
+village built on the sloping sides of a mountain from which it takes
+its name.
+
+Voivoda Marko, the hero of Medun, defeated the Turks on these slopes
+in the first engagement of the last war, successfully inaugurating
+the campaigning which secured to Montenegro all the territory through
+which we had been riding for so many weeks, including the towns of
+Podgorica and Nikšić, and the great valley now stretched at our feet.
+
+Podgorica lies like an oasis of green trees on the rolling, but
+treeless, plain.
+
+The Albanian border is but a rifle-shot away, and the village of Dinoš
+and the fortress of Tusi are plainly to be seen.
+
+We decided to spend the night here and hear Kećo's story, though
+Podgorica was only three hours' distance. It would be a fitting finish
+to our mountain tour to sleep on the battlefield of Fundina, and in
+the house of a modern hero.
+
+"I warn you," remarked the doctor, "that Kećo much belies his deeds by
+his appearance."
+
+Kećo was not in his house when we arrived, and we had our ceremonial
+and inevitable black coffee brought to us on a small natural platform
+of rock overlooking the magnificent valley.
+
+Shortly afterwards a small and insignificant man approached us, with
+haggard looks and grey hair. He greeted the doctor effusively.
+
+"This is Kećo," said Dr. S.
+
+As he took the tobacco tin which was proffered him his hands trembled
+so excessively that the rolling of a cigarette was a work of art.
+
+"His nerves are gone," explained the doctor. "He lives in hourly
+danger of his life."
+
+Kećo soon left us to prepare our meal and quarters for the night, and
+it was not till after supper, when we were seated round the fire in
+his little house and smoking, that he would consent to tell his story.
+Even then he spoke at first reluctantly, but soon warmed to his
+subject. His wife was always present and looked anxious. Several men
+were in the room.
+
+"Though my hands tremble and my hair is growing white," he began, "yet
+I do not fear death. We must all die, and I know that my fate must
+speedily overtake me. This house I have built for my wife, and stocked
+with what money I had, to provide for her. They shall not kill me
+easily. Twice have they tried. The first time I was in the fields when
+men fired at me from a long distance. I took my rifle and made a
+détour, and, as my enemies recrossed the border, I was there waiting
+for them. But I did not hit one. Another time seven men hid themselves
+only thirty yards away from my house, in the evening, but they dared
+not shoot then, for my wife was by my side."
+
+"You know," explained the doctor, "the life of a woman is sacred;
+should a woman by the greatest accident shoot a man, the vendetta
+falls on her husband--she may not be touched; or, should a woman be
+killed in a vendetta, even by the merest accident, the shame would be
+unspeakable. The murderers and their families, or even their clan,
+would be blotted out, for in such revenge all would join. Kećo's wife
+never leaves his side after dusk, and, you see, she has saved his life
+once already within his knowledge; who knows how often unawares?"
+
+"Tell us the origin of thy blood-guiltiness," said we. Dr. S. had told
+us the story, but we wished to hear it from his lips.
+
+"I had a cow which was my pride," went on Kećo. "She yielded more milk
+than any other cow and of a far better quality. Men praised the milk
+and the cheese when I took it to the market in Podgorica for sale, and
+none more than Achmet, a Turk from Dinoš.
+
+"One morning I went to milk my cow, and could find her nowhere. My
+most treasured possession was gone. I searched for her all that day
+and the next on the mountain sides, but in vain. On the next market
+day as I wandered gloomily across the market-place of Podgorica,
+Achmet, the Turk, accosted me.
+
+"'Where is thy milk?' he asked, 'which is so wonderful, and where are
+thy marvellous cheeses?'
+
+"I replied that I knew not, and would have passed on.
+
+"'Make thy mind easy,' continued Achmet, an evil smile spreading over
+his face, 'for I have thy cow.'
+
+"'Ah! she has strayed across the border,' I cried. 'Thank God she is
+found.'
+
+"'She strayed across the border,' said Achmet, 'but under my guidance.
+Thou hast not lied. Her milk is indeed of the good quality that thou
+hast boasted. For a Christian dog like thee she is far too good.'
+
+"To this hour I wonder that I did not strike him dead. My rage
+rendered me powerless to move or see. It was as if a black cloud
+descended over my eyes. When I recovered, Achmet was gone.
+
+"For many weeks I went to the Law Court whenever I visited the market,
+demanding the restitution of my cow by legal means, and each time was
+I put off by answers and promises. And Achmet was always on the
+market-place taunting me with tales of the cow and her calf. For she
+had calved. But the law is strict, and I never dared shoot him whilst
+in the town, and this the coward knew.
+
+"When I saw that I should get no help from the law, I took two men
+from this village. They are here in this room," he said, pointing to
+two men seated near us. "And one morning I went across to Dinoš. I did
+not go at night, like the thief, but when the sun was highest, and
+when all could see me. I left my comrades outside Achmet's house, and
+went in alone. There I found my cow and her calf, but only the women
+were present. So I drove the cow and the calf out of the door towards
+my comrades. Then, lest any should think that I was afraid, I fired my
+rifle into the air. Very soon the men came running from the fields,
+and amongst them Achmet and his son. When they saw me and my cow, they
+came towards me firing, but being unsteady from running, the bullets
+flew wide. Then I took careful aim and shot Achmet dead, and then his
+son. We then ran quickly, and though men pursued us, they were afraid
+to come too near lest I should shoot them likewise, and so we came
+back to Fundina in safety. Since then the men of Dinoš wait for me,
+and they will kill me soon, for the insult is very great that I have
+put upon them, and the fame of my deed has travelled into all lands."
+As he said this his eyes lit with fire, and the spirit of heroism
+shone out in the seemingly timid-looking man.
+
+"Must thou stay here, in Fundina?" I asked, "where thy enemies are so
+near. Why not go to Cetinje or Nikšić?"
+
+"Men know me for a hero," he answered proudly. "What would they say if
+I ran away and sought safety elsewhere? I should be a double coward,
+for I should leave my brothers to inherit my fate. No, I shall wait
+here till they come, and they shall not find me unprepared or
+sleeping. See, every night I make my bed in a different place,
+sometimes in one room of the house, sometimes in the bushes outside.
+They never know where I shall sleep, for these dogs love to kill their
+enemy in the night."
+
+Silence fell upon us as Kećo finished. The wood fire crackled and
+flickered, lighting up fitfully the serious faces of the men sitting
+round.
+
+Half guessing our thoughts, Kećo said--
+
+"To-night no attack will be made. We shall keep guard outside."
+
+We felt abashed. We confess thoughts of a nocturnal assassination had
+not pleased us, and yet these wild mountaineers had already provided
+for such a contingency. When we went outside the house before turning
+in, Dr. S. pointed out the figure of a motionless sentinel leaning on
+his rifle some little distance away.
+
+"It is odd that the women are so respected," I remarked to the doctor,
+"when no other law seems recognised. Do they never take part in a
+vendetta?"
+
+"Never as a woman," said the doctor. "If it should happen that a woman
+is the last surviving member of a family, the rest having been killed
+in a vendetta, she may continue the feud, but as a man. She then
+assumes the clothes of the opposite sex, procures arms and cuts
+herself off from the world, living as a hermit. Do you remember that
+Albanian woman at Easter time in Podgorica who kissed me so
+fervently?"
+
+We nodded, for we had been much amused at the scene. A wild-looking,
+unkempt Albanian woman had kissed the doctor most effusively.
+
+"Though she had assumed the woman's garb for the Easter festival, she
+is to all intents and purposes a man, and hence the man's kiss of
+peace. She then asked me for a revolver which I had promised her some
+time ago."
+
+We turned in soon after, but not before we heard another story.
+
+Two cairns on the road to Plavnica, and but half an hour from
+Podgorica, had often been pointed out to us. They were erected to the
+memory of an attack made on four gendarmes in connection with a
+long-standing vendetta. A party of Albanians had hidden themselves in
+two hollows beside the main road at night and as the gendarmes passed
+they fired into them, killing one and badly wounding two others. This
+happened shortly before our arrival.
+
+Another scene had been enacted a few days ago which they now related
+to us, to prevent us perhaps thinking too much of Kećo's story, and
+dreaming of it.
+
+The men of the Zeta had sworn revenge for the death of their gendarme,
+a famous man and great favourite, but at the time Prince Nicolas had
+sternly forbidden reprisals. But such things are not forgotten, and a
+man had crossed the Zem into Albania. Coming on a party of men working
+in a field, he had fired, but his aim was unsteady, and he only
+wounded his intended victim slightly. Then he fled, hotly pursued, and
+received a bad wound as he crossed an open space. Still he managed to
+elude his pursuers for the time being, and reached the River Zem. Here
+his strength failed him and he clung, half fainting from loss of
+blood, to the bushes fringing the bank, unable to go any further. In
+this position a man of the clan Hotti found him, as he was coming
+along the river. Having heard the shots and seeing a bleeding
+Montenegrin, he put two and two together and promptly shot him. The
+other Albanians, directed by the report, now came up, and literally
+hacked the corpse to pieces. So the Zeta peasants are now two deaths
+to the bad. In conclusion, we were told that the authorities have
+reason to believe that the murdered man had been accompanied by others
+on his raid into a friendly country and were seeking for these men
+most diligently to punish them severely.
+
+For their violating the border laws?
+
+No, for deserting their comrade, and leaving him to meet his death
+alone, and the sentence for this craven deed is ten years.
+
+Next morning we rode into Podgorica, and comparative civilisation,
+after a period of roughing it of the hardest description. We had often
+gone from five a.m. till seven or eight p.m. on a couple of eggs and
+an occasional glass of milk, and had hard going all the time. It
+proved to us pretty conclusively how we of civilised lands
+disgustingly and habitually overeat ourselves.
+
+We finished considerably harder and more fit than at the start, and we
+had lived the whole time as the Montenegrins of the mountains live.
+
+One remarkable gift of which these mountaineers are possessed, and
+which deserves special remark, is that of long-distance talking. Men
+can speak with each other in the higher altitudes at distances of five
+miles and more, where our ears could hardly distinguish a faint sound
+of the human voice. Children are accustomed to it at an early age, and
+the quaint sight of a mother conversing with her child guarding some
+sheep on a neighbouring hillside is often to be witnessed. This gift
+must be acquired young, it seems, for Dr. S., who has lived twelve
+years amongst the Montenegrins, could neither make himself heard, nor
+understand, though he said that he had given himself much pains to
+learn the art.
+
+As we rode into Podgorica that morning, we were struck by meeting
+several groups of the Turkish inhabitants hanging about outside the
+town. Arriving in the town, only Montenegrins were to be seen in the
+streets, walking somewhat ostentatiously up and down, their natural
+swagger greatly exaggerated. The news of the elopement of another
+Turkish maiden soon reached us, and that day at dinner, an officer,
+detailed to prove the matter, told us the story.
+
+A young Montenegrin had won the heart of the maiden, and accompanied
+by a friend, he had gone to the wall of her house and given a
+preconcerted signal. The girl had come, but a dispute now arose
+between the men as to who should ultimately marry her, and she, in
+great disgust, had told them to go away and settle the matter. It
+seems that the girl had no particular wishes as to whom she should
+marry. At last the friends arranged matters satisfactorily and the
+girl was abducted, if one can call an elopement an abduction. However,
+in the eyes of the Turks it was a forcible abduction, and the fact
+that the girl was related to the most influential Turk in the town did
+not improve matters. The Beg had demanded the restitution of the girl
+at once and punishment of the offenders. The Prince had sent officials
+to settle the dispute. The girl, however, very naturally refused to be
+given back, as she would probably have been killed, and insisted on
+her baptism and marriage taking place forthwith.
+
+As the officer said to us--
+
+"This is a free country, and we shall not give back the maiden against
+her will."
+
+This had incensed the Turks beyond measure. The town was being
+patrolled nightly, and the Beg attempted flight to mark his anger. But
+this the Prince would not allow, and the Beg was stopped by gendarmes
+as he was entering a carriage one night. Only if he first gave up his
+orders, decorations, and his sword of honour, and, furthermore, took
+his wives and belongings with him, could he leave the country.
+
+Such was the state of affairs on our return. At night we went armed,
+and really had hopes of seeing a street fight. One evening a shot was
+fired in the town, and in the twinkling of an eye men turned out rifle
+in hand. Nothing came of it, and the crowd of several hundred armed
+Montenegrins slowly dispersed. Had further shots been fired, we were
+told, the peasants from far and near would have taken up the alarm,
+and in an hour thousands would have flocked into the town. No wonder
+the Turks were chary of taking revenge into their own hands.[8]
+
+[Footnote 8: Again, since writing the above, this statement has been
+fully proved. In February, 1902, a party of Turkish soldiers, half
+starved in their frontier block-houses, attempted a raid into
+Montenegro. They were accompanied by a brother of the famous Achmet
+Uiko; whose story has been related elsewhere. In spite of the caution
+which the raiders displayed, the news reached Podgorica as soon as
+they had crossed the border and seemingly eluded the vigilance of the
+Montenegrin frontier guards. A party of Montenegrins lay in wait for
+them in Dr. S.'s summer garden (a spot where we had often spent many
+pleasant hours) and the Turks were challenged. As an answer the
+marauders fired at their unseen challengers, doing no harm, but an
+answering volley killed two of them. The rest were captured, one only
+making good his escape, and were brought into the town. But the
+volleys had alarmed the whole district, hundreds of men pouring into
+Podgorica from all the neighbouring villages and hills, till many
+thousands had assembled.
+--Cetinje, March, 1902.]
+
+But the mischief done was great. Many families emigrated, much to
+Prince Nicolas' anger, for he encourages by every means in his power
+the extension of the Turkish population. They bring trade and
+cultivate the lands far more diligently than the Montenegrin warriors.
+
+So it was that we witnessed during these few days the festival of the
+Sultan's birthday, which seemed strangely incongruous considering the
+mixed feelings of the inhabitants.
+
+In the morning, all the town officials called on the Turkish Consul.
+The militia were formed up and the whole, led by the Montenegrin War
+Banner, proceeded in solemn procession to the principal mosque. On
+their return, a royal salute was fired from a bastion of the old wall,
+and in the evening the town was illuminated.
+
+It was an extraordinary sight, and one not easily to be forgotten. All
+the houses stuck candles in every window, by order of the Prince; the
+market-place and the War Memorial were covered with lamps, but the
+most striking feature of all was the illumination on a small hill
+immediately behind the old town. This hill overlooks the town, and was
+covered by rows of lamps. In the streets Turks, Albanians, and
+Montenegrins jostled each other; at peace, at any rate, for one
+evening.
+
+A day or two later, a very different spectacle could have been
+witnessed. The main street leading to the church on the outskirts of
+the town was lined by waiting Montenegrins, and not a Turk was to be
+seen. Soon a carriage drove rapidly from the church, with a blushing
+Montenegrin girl and a gold-embroidered Montenegrin at her side. It
+was the late Turkish maiden, now a radiant Montenegrin bride and
+Christian. Several Turks had been caught endeavouring to approach the
+church with revolvers concealed, but were promptly turned back.
+
+And so ended an eventful week.
+
+One day, quite by accident, we discovered the arrest-house, or place
+where prisoners are detained pending their trial and sentence. We were
+passing a door which led down by a few steps into a courtyard, when an
+acquaintance of ours accosted us.
+
+We went inside and spoke to him for some minutes. He was a merry
+individual and a clerk in a Government office.
+
+He requested us to bring our camera and photograph him on the next
+day. Then he moved and a chain clanked. Neither of us had realised
+that this was a prison till that moment, though we had passed that
+door many times.
+
+Next day we came again, and took a picture of our genial friend, whom
+we found seated and playing the gusla to a crowd of other prisoners,
+some exceedingly heavily chained.
+
+One or two guards came up and we spent an hour in a pleasant chat.
+
+Our friend was only "in" for a few days for making a rude remark about
+the Chief of Police. The chained men were mostly murderers, if we may
+use such a harsh term for those who are compelled to kill their
+enemies by the relentless laws of the vendetta, and who would be
+punished by the laws of man should they prove themselves guilty of
+cowardice.
+
+The vendetta in Montenegro is a legal anomaly. Men are punished in
+either case.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
+costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
+coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
+hermit--A miracle--Nikšić--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
+palace--We are disappointed in Nikšić.
+
+
+Though we visited the famous Monastery of Ostrog at the very beginning
+of our visit to Montenegro, and Nikšić at the conclusion, both places
+lie so near together that we put them now in this order for the sake
+of simplicity.
+
+It was our good fortune to be enabled to witness the annual pilgrimage
+to the shrine of S. Vasili, which takes place during the Greek
+Whitsuntide.
+
+Ostrog is the Lourdes of the Balkans, as many equally miraculous cures
+take place as at the Roman Catholic rival in the Pyrenees. The
+Serb-speaking races from far and near flock there in enormous numbers,
+as well as many Mahometans and Catholics.
+
+S. Vasili (or Basil) was a native of the Hercegovina and a holy man of
+great repute. About a century ago he had a vision telling him to
+travel to Montenegro, and there to found a monastery. Accordingly he
+set out, taking with him a great quantity of building material, and
+chose a spot not far from Podgorica, on the right bank of the Zeta.
+But in the night the material disappeared, and S. Vasili hunted high
+and low. After a weary search it was found at Ostrog, and there he
+built his place of retreat, living many years, working many miracles,
+and dying as a saint. He is buried there, and it is said that any
+believer has but to visit the shrine, and whatever his wish may be, it
+will be fulfilled. Thus cripples have walked back the way which they
+were carried, sick have been made whole, and the mentally afflicted
+have gone away rejoicing. Certain it is that many wonderful cures are
+yearly effected there.
+
+Furthermore, the name of Ostrog appears often in the glorious annals
+of Montenegrin history. The oft-told tale of Prince Nicolas' father,
+Mirko, "The Sword of Montenegro," who was besieged in that
+inaccessible cleft in a precipice with a handful of men, is one of the
+most famous feats of Montenegrin arms. The charred cliffs still bear
+silent witness to the efforts which the Turks made to burn out the
+little garrison by throwing bundles of flaming straw from above.
+
+Ostrog is about six hours' drive from Podgorica. The road passes along
+the River Zeta, leaving the village of Spuž on the right, and past the
+flourishing little town of Danilovgrad, soon to be the connecting
+town between Cetinje and Nikšić on completion of the projected road.
+
+There is nothing of interest in Danilovgrad, though the market is of
+some importance. A little way beyond the town a nearly complete
+building can be noticed. It is the lunatic asylum.
+
+From this point onwards the road ascends slowly but steadily until a
+deep valley lies to the right, and the Zeta assumes quite diminutive
+proportions. The mountains opposite rise to an ever-increasing height,
+until a few tiny buildings can be made out by the help of
+field-glasses. It is Ostrog. That morning we could make out the tents
+and booths of the pilgrims, and a dark mass of surging humanity. But
+it is still a very long distance away. The road climbs up to the head
+of the valley to the village of Bogetić, full that morning of the
+carriages of the wealthy pilgrims. During the Whitsun festival
+carriages are scarcely to be procured in the whole of Montenegro, or
+in Cattaro either.
+
+We broke our fast here, and then drove for another mile or so where a
+path leaves the road, and the pilgrim has either to proceed on
+horseback or on foot. We had to go on foot, and a very long and tiring
+walk it proved to be. Besides Dr. S. and his factotum, Lazo, we took
+another man with us, a wretched puny individual, but seemingly
+possessed of more endurance than any of us. He led us by a short cut
+over rocks, and up slippery breakneck walls of cliffs, over which our
+guide skipped nimbly, and having reached the top seemingly hours
+before us, sat down and beamed benevolently.
+
+Half-way, the rain came down in sheets, and we took shelter in a
+wayside inn, or rather hut. It was crowded with returning pilgrims
+whom the threatening weather had forced to depart earlier than is
+their wont.
+
+As the weather momentarily cleared, we pushed on, and the remaining
+distance was one of the most interesting walks it had been our fortune
+to witness. A ceaseless stream of pilgrims poured down the rocky path.
+It came on to rain again, but one and all wished us luck in the name
+of God and S. Vasili. Nearly every costume of the Balkans was
+represented. The Bosnian, in sack-shaped baggy trousers, fitting the
+lower leg, either of crimson or blue cloth, a smart-coloured Turkish
+jacket, a broad shawl round his waist displaying armouries of knives
+and pistols, on his head a fez wound round with a huge turban cloth,
+mounted, or leading a pack-horse; his wife in coarse black trousers;
+the Hercegovinans, with breastplates of silver ornaments, exquisite in
+workmanship and of great antiquity; sombre Servians, and white-clad
+Albanians, whose trousers are embroidered with black braid in
+fantastic tracing; fez, head-cloth, and neat little Montenegrin cap;
+trousers of red, pink, blue and black; gigantic Albanians in high
+riding-boots, sitting their horses like Life Guardsmen; Macedonians,
+Greeks, and even pure-blooded Turks; Montenegrins in creamy white
+frock-coats worn over gold-braided crimson jackets; and dark-blue
+costumes with red worsted tassels of the poor Dalmatian peasants--all
+passed us in bewildering confusion.
+
+The women (who were for the most part Montenegrin) showed up well in
+comparison with their sisters from Sarajevo, whose attire is, to say
+the least, comical. For in the larger towns of the Austrian occupation
+territory they are undergoing the stage from East to West, and appear
+in huge Turkish trousers and cheap, gaudy European blouses. The
+contrast between the Sarajevan and the graceful Montenegrin is
+positively ludicrous. But of all the costumes, male and female, the
+palm must be given to the Montenegrin. They carry themselves with a
+princely air, and their picturesque costume is a model of good taste;
+for Montenegro is, as Mr. Gladstone has remarked, the beach on which
+was thrown up the remnants of Balkan freedom. After the battle of
+Kossovo, all the Serb nobility who would not submit to the Turk fled
+to Crnagora, and the traces of heredity are easily to be recognised in
+their superb carriage.
+
+[Illustration: MONTENEGRIN WOMEN]
+
+It was well after midday when we reached the plateau on which the
+lower and modern monastery is situated. We entered through a gate into
+a wide path bordered with booths in which crowds of joyful pilgrims
+sat refreshing themselves. In spite of the departing crowds that we
+had passed, the place was still densely packed, for over twenty
+thousand people visit Ostrog. We squeezed into one of the booths and
+sat watching the surging mass pass to and fro.
+
+The mixture of costume was even more marked than on the path below. It
+was a brilliant kaleidoscope of colour. Nothing but colour--colour.
+Very rarely could a man in European clothes (the richer Dalmatians) be
+noticed, and he seemed strangely out of place and harmony.
+
+As we sat and gazed, two Bosnian minstrels, from bad memory and an
+indifferent ear, began playing on a fiddle and a guitar, and though
+their music was atrocious, the wild Turkish songs which they sang gave
+the finishing touch to the scene. It was not till they began playing
+snatches of music-hall airs, such long-forgotten tunes as "Daisy,"
+that we hurriedly moved on.
+
+The Archbishop, Mitrofanban, heard of our arrival soon after, and
+immediately sent for us. When we approached, he was sitting on the
+steps of a house, surrounded by a brilliant staff of Montenegrin
+nobles and many priests, while below a great crowd of pilgrims stood
+in a ring, watching the national dance, which was being performed
+before His Grace. The dance stopped as we drew near. The Archbishop
+received us very kindly--this was our first meeting with him--and
+expressed his pleasure to see strangers from such a distant land in
+Ostrog. He assigned a room to us in his house, and gave orders for us
+to be fed during our stay. Murmuring our thanks, we attempted to
+withdraw, but we did not escape before we had solemnly drunk the usual
+coffee. It was rather an ordeal to consume that very hot coffee in the
+face of the multitude, and we were painfully conscious of our many
+shortcomings in personal appearance. Muddy and half-wet riding clothes
+and flannel shirts do not seem to go with crimson and gold, high boots
+of patent leather, and sparkling orders. A Horseguardsman's uniform
+would be more in keeping. When we left, the dancing resumed and was
+kept up till a late hour that night. We noticed another national dance
+at Ostrog. A much more barbaric performance than the stately and
+solemn movement of the ring dance, or kolo.
+
+In this case two performers dance at a time, a man and a woman. A
+small ring is made by the spectators, who also supply the relay
+couples. The man endeavours to spring as high as possible into the
+air, emitting short, Red Indian yells, and firing his revolver. The
+woman gives more decorous jumps; and, keeping opposite each other,
+they leap backwards and forwards across the small open space. After
+a few minutes they are unceremoniously pushed aside, after giving each
+other a hasty kiss, and another couple takes their place. This goes on
+_ad lib._, and we were soothed to sleep by those wild yells.
+
+[Illustration: THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG]
+
+Next morning we were up bright and early, and about seven o'clock
+commenced the actual pilgrimage. A steep and stony path winds up
+through a dense wood for about an hour. Fanatical pilgrims make this
+journey sometimes barefoot, but the ordeal is sufficiently severe
+without these little additions. The whole way is lined with beggars,
+sometimes hardly recognisable as human beings, who must reap a rich
+harvest by the exhibition of their ghastly woes. _They_ constitute the
+ordeal.
+
+Maimed stumps of limbs, deformed children, repulsive and festering
+sores, and other diseases too foul for description were proudly
+exhibited at every step. A cap was placed invitingly in front of each,
+and partly filled with alms already given. In piteous agony diseased
+hands and quavering voices besought us in the name of God and their
+saint to alleviate their sufferings with the gift of a kreutzer. It
+was not a sight that will lightly escape the memory.
+
+We reached the top, hot and nauseated, but were fully compensated by
+the unique view. The monastery is built under an overhanging precipice
+which rises to a giddy height above. The charred rocks bear telling
+evidence to the miracles which have saved the little edifice from
+burning.
+
+We went straight to the shrine, through a little door scarcely more
+than four feet high (the wooden lintels of which being the handiwork
+of S. Vasili were piously kissed by the Montenegrins), through two
+long and narrow passages hewn from the living rock and emerged
+suddenly in a small rock chamber, dimly lit by an oil lamp and about
+twelve feet square. The five of us filled the space, and, as our eyes
+grew accustomed to the gloom, we were able to distinguish a wooden
+shrine taking up the whole length of one side--where the mortal
+remains of the Hercegovinan lay. Another side was occupied by an open
+coffin containing the vestments and crucifix. On a chair sat a Greek
+priest who rose when we entered. At the foot of the shrine lay a
+cripple.
+
+We stood for some minutes in utter silence, and then followed the lead
+of the doctor, who approached the coffin and kissed the crucifix,
+which a priest gave to us all in turn: a plate for alms lay on the
+vestments: then the woodwork of the shrine was likewise kissed, and we
+emerged again into the narrow gallery.
+
+The heat had been intense in the little chapel, and we were in that
+limp and exhausted state that one experiences in a Turkish bath.
+
+[Illustration: THE UPPER MONASTERY]
+
+The gallery was open on one side where a large bell was fixed, and
+this our puny guide struck four times vigorously in the sign of a
+cross without a word of warning.
+
+After the impressive solemnity and silence of the preceding minutes,
+we nearly jumped out of our skins, and when our injured hearing had
+sufficiently recovered so that we could distinguish the sound of our
+own voices, we demanded an explanation of this apparently childish and
+wanton outrage.
+
+He said that he had struck the bell for the renewal of his strength.
+It appeared an unnecessary request.
+
+Dr. S. explained that pilgrims strike the bell on emerging from the
+shrine, praying for some special benefit.
+
+We next went up a lot of steps to a platform under the shelving cliff
+where there was a beautiful spring of water. The view which it
+commanded was magnificent. Below us lay the lower monastery and the
+deep valley of the Zeta, the mountains rising again sharply on the
+further side; to the right and left stretched wooded slopes.
+
+Then we descended again and paid the priest a visit. This man, over
+eighty years of age, has spent forty years of his life as a hermit in
+that rocky crag. With the exception of Whitsuntide and the occasional
+visits of pilgrims, he lives entirely alone, subsisting on vegetables.
+His appearance was most patriarchal, his snowy white beard and
+saintly look impressing us greatly. When he heard that we were from
+England, he embraced and kissed us repeatedly, much to our
+embarrassment. His joy knew no bounds, and he kept us with him in his
+rock-hewn cell for a considerable time. He even consented to be
+photographed, for the first time in his life, facing the ordeal with
+unflinching courage.
+
+The descent to the lower monastery was made in record time, and with
+half-closed eyes. We found the Archbishop standing in the shade of an
+enormous tree surrounded by a large ring of Montenegrins. He beckoned
+to us, asking us for our impressions, and needless to say we solemnly
+drank coffee. This beverage began to pall before we left Montenegro.
+
+After partaking of a splendid meal (for the country), washed down with
+wine such as is not to be obtained elsewhere in the land, we paid a
+farewell visit to His Grace and departed.
+
+Already the booths were fast disappearing and a mere handful of
+peasants remained. Many pilgrims journey from seven to eight days on
+foot or on horseback to Ostrog, over mountain passes and barren
+regions; so that the pilgrimage is very real.
+
+Before we leave Ostrog, we will mention one of the miracles which we
+had the opportunity of authenticating.
+
+A wretched Turk living to-day in Podgorica, a cripple crawling
+painfully on hands and knees, once made the pilgrimage to Ostrog.
+Friends carried him to the shrine, where he lay all night. Then he
+rose up and walked back to Podgorica rejoicing, with those who had
+carried him the day before. As he crossed the Vizier bridge, he
+sceptically remarked that he would have been healed without undergoing
+the farce of the pilgrimage. Straightway he fell to the ground, the
+same helpless cripple that he was before.
+
+The Turk and the witnesses still live--in fact it happened but a few
+years ago--to tell the tale.
+
+The road to Nikšić, which we left to proceed to Ostrog, climbs to the
+height of 750 metres in crossing the mountain ridge dividing the
+valley of the Zeta from that of Nikšić. The scenery is throughout fine
+and wild. In a succession of serpentines, the road descends sharply on
+to the great plain, the fertile valley of Nikšić.
+
+The town can be seen immediately on leaving the mountainous gorge, the
+cupola of the cathedral standing up boldly from the surrounding flat.
+
+A long viaduct is crossed, built by the Russians, at the foot of the
+mountain, for in the winter floods are common, and Nikšić was at times
+nearly cut off from the rest of Montenegro.
+
+Nikšić is probably the coming capital of Montenegro. In fact, it has
+been but a question of money that has prevented the removal of the
+Government from Cetinje a long time ago.
+
+The Prince has recently built himself a large palace, the Russians
+have erected a large church, and roads are now in the course of
+construction connecting it with Risano on the Bocche di Cattaro, and
+Cetinje, and again with the Cattaro-Cetinje road.
+
+When these roads are completed, Nikšić will have a most central
+position, and the unquestionably rich and fertile plain can be opened
+up. Without doubt it is the coming trading centre, and already it is
+running Podgorica very close.
+
+The day after our arrival--we had arrived in the night--we saw the
+town under most unfavourable conditions. A violent thunderstorm had
+raged incessantly for many hours, and the streets were in parts
+inundated. Water was pouring in miniature waterfalls from the ground
+floors of many houses which possessed a higher background. Braving the
+elements, and often making detours to avoid the lakes, we walked to
+the palace and the church. Both lie together outside the town.
+
+A flight of steps lead up an artificial mound, over-shadowing the
+somewhat barrack-like palace, where stands the new cathedral. It is
+the most striking edifice in the whole country, surmounted with a
+dingy light yellow cupola. It is not pretty or tasteful, but it is
+distinctly imposing, and one can well realise the marvellings that
+it has given the simple Montenegrins. Inside it is severely plain and
+void of any furniture, except the thrones for the Royal Family. Round
+the walls are lists of the men who have fallen in recent wars.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH, NIKŠIĆ]
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH AND PALACE]
+
+The platform on which the church stands commands a view of the
+country. The simplicity of Prince Nicolas' palace is thus accentuated,
+for it is situated on perfectly open ground, and there is no garden or
+any railings round it. Naked and forlorn, it gives the spectator a sad
+impression of poverty. On another side is the old Church of Nikšić,
+ridiculously small and half-ruined. The Russians did a good deed, for
+the comparison is absolutely absurd if a comparison can be drawn
+between a hovel and a S. Peter's.
+
+The town is a long straggling collection of small houses, very
+uninteresting and plain, and beyond lies the historical ruin of the
+old fortress, stormed by Prince Nicolas in person.
+
+In the town itself, broad streets and an enormous market-place are the
+only features.
+
+We spent a few days in Nikšić, but in this instance we were never able
+to rid ourselves of the first impressions, and we left gladly, though
+the town was not without its humour. It contains the only brewery in
+Montenegro, a ramshackle place and producing very poor beer. The post
+office is a tumble-down outhouse, also we were shown the house which
+would in the course of time be the Bank of Montenegro.
+
+It is hard to realise that Nikšić is the coming town, in spite of its
+gaudy cathedral, but progress makes sometimes wonderful strides.
+
+Our visit to Nikšić was a failure all round. We arrived to see the
+Prince ride out of the town at the head of a great cavalcade for the
+mountains, and again missed the opportunity of presenting ourselves.
+
+Our intended tour to the Durmitor, Montenegro's highest mountain, was
+frustrated, owing to the Prince's retinue having taken every horse in
+the place, in addition to the weather having completely broken up, and
+so we missed one of the finest parts of the country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
+of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
+subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
+of infancy--A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
+a memorable drive--A fervent prayer.
+
+
+Before we leave Podgorica for good our readers must be introduced to
+the Club. It was not a club in the English sense of the word, but P.
+and I always called that hour or two at sunset so delightfully spent
+in the company of that cosmopolitan gathering, the Club. Podgorica was
+our base, from which we made all our trips and excursions, so that we
+were there off and on during the whole of our lengthy sojourn amongst
+the sons of the Black Mountain. From the "members" we gleaned many
+stories of past and present vendettas and quaint customs which we had
+not had the good fortune to witness ourselves. Amongst the regular
+members was of course Dr. S., who was three nationalities rolled into
+one--to explain, born in Roumania, he entered into Austrian service
+and became an Austrian subject, and finally twelve years in Montenegro
+had quite "Montenegrinised" him. He was very angry if we told him
+this. In the course of his duties as sole veterinary surgeon he had
+travelled, and travelled continually from one end of the land to the
+other, there was not a corner or collection of huts where he had not
+been. He had been snowed up in winter in the mountains, attacked by
+wolves, and shot at by Albanians, and had witnessed many a scene of
+the vendetta.
+
+Another even more interesting character was L., an Austrian, who for
+years had been employed by scientific institutions in ornithological
+and geological research in Montenegro and Albania. He had carried his
+life in his hands for weeks together amongst the untameable
+mountaineers across the border. A man whose terribly hard life had
+turned him into a man of bone and muscle, rivalling the most active
+Montenegrin in strength and endurance. And what a fund of anecdote and
+adventure he could reel off! Without doubt he was one of the most
+interesting and fascinating men we have ever met; a perfect rifle,
+gun, and revolver shot, fine horseman and entertaining companion.
+
+Then there was a Montenegrin professor, he was the father of the
+party, though the tales _he_ told were not at all becoming to his age
+and learning. He spoke about eight languages well and perhaps that had
+slightly turned his brain. Once he had served a term of imprisonment
+for an outspoken criticism, and when he became tired of it, he sent
+an ultimatum to the effect that if he were not released at once, he
+would break out himself, take a rifle and bundle of cartridges and
+hold the Lovćen (a high mountain) against all comers. The originality
+of his threat gained him his freedom. Since then he has kept a closer
+guard over that unruly member and only unburdened himself in the
+seclusion of the Club. Otherwise P., myself, and a young and intensely
+patriotic Scotchman completed the list of regular members.
+
+We had a few occasional "country members," officers and officials whom
+some of us knew well from Cetinje or Nikšić, but we were mostly alone.
+At first we met in the garden of one Petri, a good-tempered giant of
+about six feet eight inches, but in spite of our patronage he managed
+to ruin himself at cards and so we were forced to adjourn to an old
+Albanian rascal named Gugga. What fun we had with that dear old boy,
+whom we irreverently called Skenderbeg! One day in a moment of
+ill-advised confidence he had told us that he was descended from that
+great Albanian hero and patriot. But he was an educated and travelled
+man, having lived for many years in Venice, spoke an excellent Italian
+and correspondingly atrocious German, which latter he delighted to
+inflict upon us. He was most amusing in his hatred and contempt of the
+Montenegrin peasant.
+
+Gugga kept a big shop, and when irritated by a customer he had a
+regular formula which loses much of its wit when translated, as it
+rhymes in Serb. The humble Montenegrin is remarkably feminine in the
+way he shops. He will spend half an hour in the store examining
+everything with great curiosity. At last he will ask the price of a
+certain article. Gugga, whose choler has been slowly rising during his
+customer's long and tiring inspection, gives a purposely indistinct
+answer, whereupon the Montenegrin will inquire "What does he say?"
+Gugga, furious at being spoken to in the third person, turns savagely
+upon the astonished Montenegrin saying--
+
+"What dost thou say? What dost thou mean?
+ What stinks here? Get out, ass and son of an ass."
+
+Another famous saying of his was in speaking of Montenegro, its past
+and present rulers. "This land," Gugga would say in all seriousness,
+"was first accursed by God, its maker; then by Diocletian, then by the
+Sultan, then by our Gospodar (Prince), and lastly by Gospodin
+Milovan." Gospodin (Mr.) Milovan was the last Governor of Podgorica, a
+man always endeavouring to introduce modern improvements into the
+town, much to the disgust of its inhabitants who are nothing if not
+conservative, and amongst other sufferers was our friend Gugga. He
+substitutes the word "blessed" for "accursed," according to his
+audience.
+
+We met after the arrival of the mail diligence from Cetinje about
+half-past six or seven o'clock in the evening. Proceedings usually
+commenced with a heated argument as to the time, the last comer being
+accused of unpunctuality. It was always an unsatisfactory argument,
+for no member ever had the same time as another. A sort of
+go-as-you-please time was kept in the town, but as either your watch
+invariably gained ten minutes in the day--according to the town clock
+it did--or lost a quarter of an hour, no one had any confidence in the
+official time, and each swore to the regularity of his own timepiece.
+One great advantage of this discrepancy of time was that try as one
+would, one was never late for an appointment. Somebody was sure to be
+present to back up an indignant protest, that you were five minutes
+early.
+
+One evening was particularly memorable, it was in Petri's garden,
+then, that we had met as usual. P. was in a pensive and sentimental
+mood, usually caused by the magnificent sunsets. From our table we
+commanded a splendid view of those crimson-tinted peaks in the far
+distance, and the mysterious purple gloom which, like a rich robe,
+covered the intervening hills. By some strange coincidence the subject
+of music came up, and P. bitterly lamented the absence of that gentle
+muse from such grand surroundings. I don't believe there is a piano in
+the country except at the girls' school at Cetinje. The Scotchman had
+suggested the gusla as a substitute, and had been met with derisive
+laughter, for he had made the suggestion in all good faith. He was one
+of the most unmusical men I have ever met. The professor had followed
+this up with a learned discourse on the gusla, and the lesson to be
+learnt from it in the origin and development of modern music, when
+suddenly the sounds of a violin, being tuned in the room behind us,
+arrested his flow of speech. In another few moments the unseen
+musician began to play, and a deep silence fell upon us, for he was
+playing our music and recalling memories of bygone days. Snatches from
+Italian opera, and old well-known songs followed each other as we sat
+in the twilight and listened, conjuring up pictures of opera-house and
+concert-hall in this far-away land. Then the music ceased, and the
+tinkling of coins on a plate proclaimed the status of our serenader.
+In a few minutes a ragged, fair-haired boy stood before us, wearily
+holding a plate in his hand. As we dived into our pockets the doctor
+asked him in Serb, who he was and whence he came. He gazed blankly in
+answer, and P. said to me, "He looks quite English." A joyful smile
+lit up his tired face as he answered--
+
+"I am English, sir. I will fetch father; he will be so pleased."
+
+His father came out, a battered violin under his arm, and we were all
+struck with his miserable half-starved and ragged appearance. He
+played to us, he did not even play well, poor fellow, but still we
+listened appreciatively, and then some of us took him home, fed him,
+and we all contributed to his wardrobe. We were all of different sizes
+and build, and the result was sadly comical. Before he left us he told
+his story. It was not new or even interesting, but intensely pathetic;
+one of a large family, fair education, and finally a clerk at £80 a
+year. A pretty typewriter, marriage, and no help from his father.
+First the girl wife was dismissed, and then the boy husband. The child
+was born, and the mother died from lack of proper nourishment and
+comfort. For a few years the father earned a few coppers by playing
+before public-houses in the East End, and then took to the road.
+Somehow or other he found himself on the Continent, and after many
+years he had turned up here. It was all very vague and incoherent.
+Often starving, homeless, and speaking no language but his own, is it
+to be wondered that the man had lost count of days, years, and time?
+Now he had a desire to journey to Greece, why, he knew not, but he
+clung to it with all a weak man's obstinacy. We could never let him
+trudge through Albania, and so the Scotchman procured him a free
+passage to Corfu by steamer. He left us one morning, leading his son
+by the hand, and over his shoulder a sack containing his worldly
+possessions, a sorrowful, ludicrous, and pitiful picture.
+
+Many weeks afterwards--P. and I had been on an expedition in the
+meantime--we sat again in Petri's garden at just such a sunset. We
+remembered the musician, and one of us jokingly remarked that his
+music would not be so appreciated in Greece as by us music-starved
+exiles. Then the Austrian told us the sequel. He had heard it from a
+murderous Albanian friend of his, who sometimes brought him specimens.
+The wanderer had not used his ticket, and had walked from Antivari to
+Dulcigno, from thence he had attempted his original plan of crossing
+Albania on foot. He knew nothing of geography or nationality, and
+doubtless imagined that he could earn his way as in a civilised
+country. On the way to Scutari a band of Albanians stopped him, and he
+played to them. The instrument pleased them, and they took it from
+him. Then they took the boy--though why they did so is not clear, for
+they do not kidnap children--and the father, in a fit of wild despair,
+sprang at the nearest Albanian. The Albanians are always glad of an
+excuse to kill; the wanderer found his death in perhaps the only
+moment of heroism that he had displayed throughout his wretched life.
+Such, though, was the story our informant had gleaned, and it took the
+edge off our evening's amusement.
+
+But other evenings we were merry, and many were the wonderful stories
+of adventure told over bottled beer and an extraordinary salad which
+old Gugga mixed before us--to make an appetite, as he said.
+
+We got to love Podgorica in the end, and left its streets, full of
+gaudy-coloured humanity, the old shot-riddled town across the river,
+and the glorious mountain panorama, with sorrow. There was always
+something to talk about, from a threatened raid of the Albanians to
+the abduction of a Turkish maiden. Death is always very near in that
+unknown border town.
+
+The day of our final departure from Podgorica, we drove to the famous
+Crna Zemlja, or Black Earth.
+
+The object of our visit was chiefly to call on a young Albanian, who
+had repeatedly invited us. Though an Albanian, he is a Montenegrin
+subject and a corporal in the standing army.
+
+As a matter of fact, he is a fugitive from his clan, the Klementi,
+where his life is forfeited in a blood feud. The Prince wisely uses
+such men as a kind of extra border guard, giving them land and houses
+on the actual frontier line, knowing that they will keep a doubly
+sharp watch to preserve their own lives.
+
+The Black Earth is an absolutely flat and treeless plain, covered at
+times with grass, which mischievous Albanians love to set fire to in
+the hopes of some sport with peasants, who might attempt to
+extinguish the conflagration. The River Zem divides it and constitutes
+the boundary, but the land on both sides is neutral by mutual consent.
+It is courting death to walk upon it. Block-houses dot it at frequent
+intervals, containing small garrisons of Montenegrin and Turkish
+soldiers.
+
+As we drove past the first Montenegrin block-house, we were reminded
+of a ride which we once took to it, while our knowledge of the border
+dangers was nil. On that occasion we had cantered, innocently,
+straight towards it, and were amused to see its little garrison
+promptly turn out. A man came running towards us motioning us to halt.
+This unmistakable request we suddenly obeyed, for the men behind had
+covered us with their rifles.
+
+Explanations followed, and the rest of the men came up smiling; but
+they sent us back towards Podgorica at once, which was only half an
+hour's ride away--saying that a bullet from the overlooking hill would
+be no unusual thing.
+
+To-day we left this block-house on our left, and, striking the Zem, we
+drove along it till we reached a solitary house. A few hundred yards
+further down was a Turkish fort, with the banner of the Star and
+Crescent hanging lazily at the mast.
+
+This house was the home of our friend, quite a young man of sixteen,
+but married and a proud father. He could well have been mistaken for
+twenty-five.
+
+He was working in his field as we drew near, and hurried to meet us.
+First of all we went to the Zem, which fifty yards away would be
+unnoticed, as it lies between two deep banks, which break off suddenly
+and without any indication. This historical little river looked very
+peaceful as it flowed through deep basins, hollowed out of the rocky
+bed, and splashed over great boulders. How often has it been crossed
+by bands of men intent on bloodshed and murder, who often recrossed,
+flying and hunted fugitives! What quantities of blood have dyed those
+clear and crystal pools! What awful doings of death have they
+reflected!
+
+The Turkish soldiers opposite turned out, and viewed our movements
+inquisitively. Our Albanian friend hinted that a too lengthy
+inspection might be misunderstood, so we withdrew.
+
+The house was a curiosity. One-storied, and solidly built of stone; it
+had no windows, but suggestive loopholes. The ground floor was empty.
+We looked inside for the staircase, but in vain, and this was scarcely
+odd, because there was none. The family lives above, and the only
+means of entry to their dwelling is by a ladder. This is drawn up
+after the last man, for the night.
+
+As we clambered up the ladder and crawled through the narrow doorway,
+the young mother (of fifteen) kissed our hands.
+
+An aged lady, evidently the great-grandmother of one of the young
+couple--at least, to judge by her decrepit appearance, she might well
+have been that (in reality she was the boy's mother)--sat spinning in
+a corner. A weeping and noisy infant lay strapped immovably in a
+wooden cradle with no rockers, which a young maiden attempted to
+soothe by covering it with a thick cloth and rocking it vigorously.
+
+That Montenegrins survive the ordeal of infancy is a proof of their
+iron constitutions. An ordinary healthy English baby would be
+suffocated in five minutes under that hermetic pall, or, escaping this
+fate, would die of concussion of the brain from violent jarring to and
+fro, which we have inadvertently termed "rocking."
+
+A wood fire smouldered in one corner of the room, and the embers were
+blown into flames as the little can of water was placed in them to
+boil. As the water boils, several spoonfuls of coffee are put in--of
+the _good_ coffee, only used for distinguished visitors--and the whole
+allowed to boil up three or four times. Then cups are produced, sugar
+added, and the thick mixture poured out. This beverage is drunk when
+it is cool enough, and when the grounds have sunk in a thick sediment
+at the bottom of the cup.
+
+[Illustration: A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE]
+
+[Illustration: AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA]
+
+The room, our treatment, and the coffee-brewing are typical of many
+such visits that we paid in Montenegro.
+
+Afterwards spirits were produced, tobacco tins exchanged, and
+arms--rifles, revolvers, and handjars--inspected and criticised. Any
+relics or curiosities are produced, and everyone becomes very
+friendly.
+
+Before we left, an old man (some relation of our host) came up as we
+were examining a fine handjar, that heavy and hiltless sword which
+forms part of both the Albanian and Montenegrin fighting kit, though
+they are no longer universally carried in times of peace. The handy
+revolver has replaced the former beltful of pistols and yataghan. But
+in border fighting the handjar is always taken, and, when time
+permits, the victim is still decapitated by a single blow of that
+murderous weapon.
+
+The old man--a villainous-looking rascal, with shaven head and
+scalping lock--favoured us with a graphic mimicry of a fight, showing
+the methods in his day. He took the handjar between his teeth and a
+musket in his hands, yelling and scowling fearfully; then, the last
+cartridge fired or the moment for hand-to-hand combat arrived, the
+rifle was thrown away, and brandishing the handjar in the air, he
+darted towards us. It was a most realistic performance, and made us
+feel thankful that it was only play.
+
+Suddenly the old man stopped his wild yelling and burst out laughing.
+He laughed till the tears ran down his cheeks.
+
+We glanced behind us at the loophole door, and there, with a horrified
+look, peered our driver, revolver in hand.
+
+He thought that we were being murdered. He was a foreigner and new to
+Podgorica, but more of him anon.
+
+Then we took our leave and drove on to another block-house, and
+visited the commandant. After that we returned to Podgorica, and that
+afternoon, affectionate leave-takings over, we departed for Cetinje,
+en route for Cattaro.
+
+That drive, which should have taken about seven hours, was a memorable
+one, and a fitting conclusion to our visit.
+
+We wired to the hotel in Cetinje in the morning, ordering supper to be
+ready for eight o'clock. Then we had hoped to leave at one p.m. At two
+we again wired from Podgorica for supper to be delayed till ten.
+
+A hundred yards from the town we stopped, and the driver mended some
+harness with a piece of wire. A mile further on something else broke.
+If nothing gave way, a horse kicked a leg over a trace, necessitating
+its partial unharnessing. Each time the driver (he of the morning's
+drive and a native of Hercegovina) descended, swearing softly between
+clenched teeth, in caressing tones, and his face set in a forced
+smile. If we had not understood what he said, he might have been
+addressing endearing remarks to his horse, or holding serious converse
+with a friend.
+
+It became very monotonous after a few hours--should we go for three
+hundred yards without a stop of five or ten minutes, it was a matter
+for comment. We began to feel alarmed, fearing worse things.
+
+Rijeka we reached at eight p.m. instead of five, and we sent another
+wire, stating our arrival to be uncertain, if not improbable.
+
+We seriously contemplated staying the night, but an appointment next
+morning forced us to give up this idea.
+
+After an hour's rest we proceeded. The same weary repetition was
+resumed, either the near side horse lashed out violently and remained
+hung over a trace, or the axle boom or something broke.
+
+We dozed, and I awoke from a sudden jar to find the driver sound
+asleep, the horses wandering aimlessly along, a precipice of many
+hundred feet below us on one side. The road takes sharp turns every
+hundred yards, rendering it impossible to see far ahead, and traffic
+even at night is not uncommon. Drivers shout when nearing a corner,
+particularly on coming downhill, which they do at a great pace. I
+shuddered at the thought of a carriage dashing suddenly round a
+corner upon us as we painfully climbed, for our driver slept soundly.
+I even shouted in his ear, but in vain. Then I struck him, and with
+effect. Inured as we were already by the dangers of that drive, we
+slept no more.
+
+I looked at my watch; it was one o'clock. In another hour the look-out
+hut of Bella Vista loomed up indistinctly, and we thought of that
+grand view of the Lake of Scutari and the mountain panorama to be seen
+from there.
+
+We stopped all the way down into Cetinje, at intervals, and had a long
+wait actually in the town itself while the driver hunted up a friend
+and borrowed a spanner.
+
+At three a.m. we arrived, and refused the offer of our driver to take
+us down to Cattaro next day. He assured us that everything would be in
+order by the afternoon. But we declined, even though he made us a
+cheap offer, below the ordinary price. We had no more confidence in
+him or his carriage, or his wonderful kicking horse--in fact, we gave
+quite a curt and rude refusal, when he pressed the matter.
+
+Safe inside the old-fashioned hostelry of Reinwein, we thanked
+Providence for our safe arrival. We had been through a few dangerous
+experiences during our sojourn in the Land of the Black Mountain, but
+none worse than this.
+
+The carriage was small, and we suffered agonies from cramp; every
+moment we expected to see it fall to pieces; one of the horses lashed
+out violently, narrowly missing the face of the driver, if only
+touched with the whip, every time hitching itself over a trace and
+threatening to kick the decrepit structure behind it to bits; the
+devilish anger of the man, his lurid and comprehensive cursing in that
+soft voice, the danger of dashing over a precipice, constituted a
+journey which we fervently pray may never again fall to our lot.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
+consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
+appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital.
+
+
+We have said that there are not many stirring events happening in
+Cetinje. But this was due to the fact that we had only a very
+superficial knowledge of the town. To appreciate it fully, though, it
+is absolutely necessary to know the country and the people first. We
+had quite made up our minds to go down to Cattaro the day following
+the memorable drive from Podgorica, but a mutual acquaintance, a
+Montenegrin of high standing, met us as we strolled aimlessly down the
+main street that morning. When he heard that we were leaving in a few
+hours, he became quite excited. Had we really seen everything, in
+Cetinje too?
+
+"Yes," said we. "We have visited the monastery, watched the soldiers
+drilling, chatted with the criminals, and know every burgher of the
+town, at least by sight."
+
+"First you must see the hospital and then you must attend a trial in
+the Supreme Court of Appeal," said our seducer. "And as for
+vendettas," he added with pride, "we too have our little quarrels. On
+the spot you are standing a man was shot five years ago, and in the
+act of dying he killed his assailant."
+
+"Tell us the story," we broke in eagerly. Montenegro is demoralising
+in this respect. One becomes so used to bloodthirsty anecdotes that
+one wonders how other countries exist without the excitement of the
+vendetta. Then the intercourse with noted murderers and assassins
+makes a mere ordinary man whose hands are not stained with the blood
+of his fellow-beings seem dull and tame. Our eagerness pleased our
+friend and we adjourned to the café opposite.
+
+About five years ago a near relation of the Prince died, and was taken
+to the home of Petrović in Njeguši. To do honour to the dead man, the
+men of Cetinje and the men of Bajice--a village at the further end of
+the valley--accompanied the corpse as a guard of honour.
+
+Now a corpse is waked in true Irish style in this country, and by the
+time the escort had returned to the valley of Cetinje and halted at
+Bajice for a parting glass, the condition of the mourners resembled
+the close of a Bank Holiday in London. The too liberal indulgence in
+raki or spirits does not always provoke that mellowness which follows
+a good dinner and a glass of port. On the contrary, you become
+argumentative and convinced of the truth of your side of the question,
+and you do not hesitate to tell the other man that he is more or less
+of a fool. So it came to pass in Bajice that those of Cetinje argued
+that they were the better men, a statement which did not conduce to
+good fellowship--in fact, a Voivoda who was present, a native of
+Bajice, had to interfere to prevent the only true solution of the
+question in point. He was an aged man, and the men of Cetinje
+proceeded home without proving their statement. One man, however,
+stayed behind to continue the argument, and this naturally enraged the
+Voivoda. He ordered him to be beaten. Nothing loath, the worthy
+villagers fell upon him, and belaboured him with such fervour that he
+soon fell insensible to the ground. Before he lost consciousness, he
+was heard to utter a threat to the effect that his assailants would be
+sorry for it.
+
+Then he was carried to the hospital in Cetinje and lay six weeks
+recovering.
+
+When he was well again, his thoughts were occupied with revenge, and
+in this scheme he was greatly assisted by his relations.
+
+"Thou wilt be killed, of course," they said, "but thine and our honour
+must be avenged. Who are the men of Bajice to beat one of us and go
+unpunished?"
+
+He was of the same opinion, and cast about for a suitable victim. Now
+the son of the aged Voivoda who had ordered the assault lived in
+Cetinje. He was the captain of the Royal Body Guard, the hero of many
+a fight with the Turks, and famed throughout the land. We knew his
+son, who stands about six feet four inches, and he is said to have
+been small compared to what his father was.
+
+"He shall be the victim," said the man of Cetinje, and his relations
+applauded the choice.
+
+One morning early the captain emerged from a shop, and from a distance
+of a few feet, the avenger of his honour fired at him from behind,
+hitting him in the neck. The captain fell forward on his face, saying,
+"Who has shot me?" and turning saw the assassin running up the street.
+With his last strength he drew his revolver, and resting his elbow on
+the ground, he fired once; the man reeled but continued his headlong
+flight: again the wounded officer fired, and as he sank forward dying,
+he had the satisfaction of seeing the fugitive throw up his hands and
+fall dead, shot through the heart. The last shot was fired at a
+distance of fifty yards.
+
+"As you can imagine," concluded our informant, "the news of this
+affray nearly caused a pitched battle between Bajice and Cetinje,
+which was only prevented by the energetic action of the Prince. He
+called the two clans together before his palace and with marvellous
+judgment picked out the ring-leaders and imprisoned them, and the rest
+were sent home with such a warning of what would come if he heard any
+more about it, that all interest was lost in the dispute. Men do not
+like to face our Prince when he is angered, and his constant presence
+in Cetinje is a great drawback to the vendetta. Now I must leave you,
+and to-morrow you shall visit the hospital."
+
+We strolled to the market-place, which was full of peasants and their
+produce. It is not nearly such a scene of life as is met with
+elsewhere. The Albanian element is almost totally absent, and that
+alone takes fifty per cent. of the wildness off. Neither are rifles
+brought to Cetinje, so that it presents a far more peaceable aspect.
+Still it is crowded, the guslars do a literally roaring trade, and
+there are always a sprinkling of men from the Vasović and other
+outlying clans to liven up the scene.
+
+Here old friends and comrades in arms meet, called to the capital as
+witnesses, or principals, in a law case, or to draw their salaries as
+small officials of their districts. The conversation on these
+occasions is always the same, and if heard often, becomes monotonous.
+The unvarying formula of greeting is quaint and terse, but it loses
+much of its impressive character by translation. One word in
+explanation. The Montenegrins cannot utter the simplest remark
+without invoking the Almighty in some form or another. The use of the
+word "Bog," or "God," is incessant.
+
+Picture an aged man, whose grey stubble fringes a weather-beaten and
+furrowed face with a grizzled moustache. He is smoking a grimy
+tchibouque in a contemplative fashion, as he stands on the outskirts
+of the chattering throng. To him approaches a second stalwart, lean
+man about the same age and appearance. He is also smoking a long
+tchibouque; it is a custom which the elder inhabitants have adopted
+from the Turks.
+
+"May God protect thee," says the new-comer gravely, as though he had
+never given vent to such a momentous utterance before.
+
+"May God give thee good fortune," answers the other, with equal
+solemnity; and removing their pipes, they clasp hands and fervently
+kiss each other. Then the smoking is resumed, and between the puffs
+the following conversation ensues.
+
+"How art thou?" says the new-comer, gazing with affection at his old
+comrade.
+
+"Well, thank God," replies the other.
+
+"Thank God."
+
+"And how art thou?"
+
+"Well, thank God."
+
+"Thank God."
+
+Now it is the new-comer's turn for the Montenegrin catechism.
+
+The questions already asked and answered are only the prelude, so to
+speak, before they settle down to serious business. "Kako ste?" ("How
+art thou?") is simply as meaningless as "How do you do"; in fact, a
+mere matter of form.
+
+"Art thou well?" says the questioner, referring to the other's state
+of health, who replies--
+
+"I am well, by God, thank God."
+
+"Thank God," says the questioner, breathing more freely, and
+continuing.
+
+"How is thy wife?" "How are thy children?" "Thy grandchildren?" "Thy
+brother?" "Thy sister?" To all of which a deep-toned "Well, thank
+God," is given.
+
+Having satisfied himself that the whole family is in reasonable
+health, and quite certain that he has omitted no important relation,
+the catechiser proceeds to inquire as to the other's worldly
+possessions.
+
+"How are thy crops?"
+
+"God will give me a good harvest."
+
+"How are thy horses?" "Thy sheep?" "Thy goats?" "Thy cows?" "Thy
+pigs?" "Thy bees?"
+
+It must be clearly understood, to appreciate the humour of the scene,
+that the formula has been shortened to avoid vain repetition. Every
+question is asked in full, and answered with a pious "Dobro, hfala
+Bogu" ("Well, thank God"). Not a word is omitted. The concluding
+question is put, after a few moments' thought that really no item has
+been left out, and this covers any lapse of memory.
+
+"And, in short, How art thou?"
+
+"Dobro, hfala Bogu" ("Well, thank God").
+
+"Hfala Bogu" ("Thank God").
+
+Now it is the other's turn, and precisely the same questions are
+asked, varied perhaps with an inquiry as to the state of health of the
+district "standard bearer" or "mayor." Then a few minutes' general
+conversation are indulged in as to the direct cause of the other's
+visit to Cetinje, and each satisfied that he has gained every particle
+of information, they clasp hands, kiss, and part with a measured
+"S'Bogom," signifying that they commend each other to the Almighty's
+keeping.
+
+The simplest and most inoffensive query is answered thus:--
+
+"Hast thou any milk?" says the thirsty wayfarer, pausing at a hut.
+
+"I have none, by God," and the stranger proceeds wearily on his way.
+
+Our visit to the hospital was decidedly interesting. The senior doctor
+of Montenegro was an ex-Austrian military surgeon. He was very
+pressing in his invitation, so one day we wended our steps thither at
+eleven o'clock. We were met by a smart-looking nurse, who told us that
+the doctor was at present engaged in an operation, and would be with
+us shortly. He soon appeared, and, apologising for the simplicity of
+the building, started taking us round. First he led us into the
+accident-room, where the injured are first treated. There were the
+usual operating-tables and cases of instruments. "We treat wounds that
+are suppurating here," he said pleasantly. "Our real operating-room is
+in the other house, and is much better fitted up. This being the only
+hospital in the country I have all the operations to perform,
+generally one a day."
+
+Then we went into the Röntgen room. The X rays, the doctor informed
+us, was very useful in locating bullets. In the men's ward a young man
+was pointed out to us who had been shot twice during a kolo dance in
+the arm and leg.
+
+"The Montenegrins," said the doctor, "are very careless when they fire
+their revolvers during a dance, and I get a good many patients that
+way." Afterwards we visited some other wards, and we were finally
+taken to the other operating-room, or theatre. But it was only a
+reproduction of the other on a large scale. "The Prince is very
+generous," said the doctor, "and gives me a free hand. We have every
+modern appliance, and I have trained my assistants to such an extent
+that I can absolutely rely on them. The hospital costs a lot of money,
+for we only charge a krone (about a franc) a day, and then they
+petition that they cannot pay."
+
+After inscribing our names in a book we went back to our midday meal.
+
+The hospital, from a medical and surgical standpoint, is extremely up
+to date, and at its head is a doctor who may be counted as one of the
+finest operators in Europe; at his own request his name has not been
+mentioned. It is another instance of Prince Nicolas' benevolence to
+his people, another of the progressive movements which he is ever
+introducing into the country. Every district has a doctor, all of whom
+are under the head doctor at Cetinje, who directs all treatment in the
+case of an epidemic. Serious cases are sent to Cetinje and treated
+there, but these are largely surgical. The fame of the doctor at
+Cetinje has reached the furthermost village; men who have suffered for
+years now troop joyfully to the capital, and the number of operations
+increases yearly.
+
+May the hospital and its capable chief flourish and continue to bring
+the blessings of science to the worthy sons of the Black Mountain!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical
+lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of
+tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and
+apostrophe.
+
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje is distinctly quaint. All civil cases are
+conducted in public, and the method of procedure is simplicity
+itself.[9] Firstly there are no lawyers and no costs, the rival
+parties conducting their case in person--that is to say, they are
+present, and are examined and cross-examined by the judge and his six
+assistants. All the preliminaries have been committed to writing and
+are read out by the clerk of the court, the only other official
+present. In a small inclosure sit the plaintiff and defendant and
+their witnesses; behind a railing, stand and sit the audience of
+admiring friends and relations.
+
+[Footnote 9: This is all altered now since the end of 1902, when a new
+code and system was introduced, more up to date.]
+
+The room is long and low. At the further end on a raised dais sits the
+judge, behind whom is a lifesize reproduction of the Prince's
+photograph. At a horseshoe-shaped table sit the other judges, three on
+each side, and in the middle is another table holding the Bible,
+crucifix, and two candles. The candles are lit when a witness takes
+the oath.
+
+In the intervening space is a large and comfortable easy-chair, or
+perhaps it would be more correct and dignified to call it a throne. It
+is occupied by Prince Nicolas whenever he comes in, as he often does,
+for an hour or so, for he takes a keen interest in the law cases of
+his subjects. When he is present the proceedings are in no way
+altered, but the Prince himself puts now and then a pertinent question
+to the witnesses. Furthermore, it is here that the Prince every
+Saturday, when he is in residence in Cetinje, holds public audience
+and receives petitions and complaints from his lowliest subjects.
+Every petition must be committed to writing, and in the appointed
+order each man or woman steps forward while the document is read aloud
+by the clerk. The Prince puts a question or two to the petitioner and
+then gives his answer to the request, which is duly noted, and the
+next person called.
+
+It is all so simple and quick that it is hard to realise the
+importance of this commendable institution. In the olden days the
+Prince dispensed justice and favours, seated under the shade of an
+enormous tree, which has now, however, been destroyed. But in the
+height of summer, a shady spot in the open air is still found.
+
+We listened to one case, that of a woman who had amassed a large sum
+of money--for Montenegro--by fetching water from a distance at so much
+a gallon. Cetinje is almost waterless in summer, and water-carriers
+can earn small fortunes, particularly if equipped with a donkey or
+two, as was this woman. Having saved a few hundred guldens, she
+proceeded to lend it to needy friends--people are foolish in this
+respect, even in Montenegro. It would have been all right if she had
+not neglected the simple precaution of insisting on an I.O.U. for each
+loan. Her money gone, she not unnaturally asked that some of it should
+be returned, for she had fallen on evil days. But all knowledge of
+such loans was denied by the ungrateful borrowers.
+
+It was a knotty point to decide. Should the judges believe the woman's
+word, or the emphatic denials of the debtors that they had ever
+received a kreutzer? The seven looked hopelessly at each other, and
+then wisely retired to the seclusion of a private room, awaiting
+divine inspiration.
+
+As of yore, the little prison, or rather house of detention, had a
+great attraction for us. Many afternoons we wended our way thither to
+while away an hour in the genial company of the prisoners and their
+warders. The handsome young director of prisons usually accompanied
+us, ostensibly but to bear us company, though doubtless he was acting
+on higher orders, and had instructions to see that our eccentricities
+did not go too far.
+
+We organised sports on some occasions, chiefly consisting of putting
+the weight, _i.e._ a large stone, but they _would_ swindle and
+invariably overstepped the limit line, declaring that they hadn't
+afterwards.
+
+But it was their stories that we loved to listen to. They were mostly
+harmless quarrellers, for we shunned the debased thieving criminal; a
+man who could steal was vigorously excluded from our circle. There was
+one exception, however, and he was a Hungarian, a deserter from his
+regiment. That in itself is not a punishable crime, but he had eased
+the regimental cash-box of a thousand kronen at the time of his
+departure, and was awaiting the result of investigations. He
+maintained that the money was his, and was quite indignant when it was
+hinted that he must have stolen it; but unluckily he destroyed any
+belief in his honesty by invariably contradicting himself as to how he
+came by it. But he was such a good-natured, pleasant-spoken man that
+we let him sit by our side and prevaricate, till we bade him cease
+from further blackening his soul.
+
+We gleaned a lot more information from the young director of the
+prison, and amongst it the method of recapturing escaped prisoners. In
+the central prison at Podgorica, if a prisoner escapes, the rest of
+the criminals are sent out to catch him. Very often they find him, and
+never has a prisoner abused this privilege, all punctually returning
+by a given date.
+
+We stayed at Reinwein's inn, an unpretentious building, both as
+regards the exterior and interior, but as Reinwein himself is a
+Viennese, and has been for twelve years in the service of the Prince,
+acting often as cook, it is quite safe to say that at his house the
+best cooking in the whole of Montenegro is to be found. Coming into
+the country this would not be so noticeable, but after months in other
+Montenegrin towns the cooking is most appreciable. We spent very happy
+evenings in his bare little dining-room, with a decidedly cosmopolitan
+gathering. The most noticeable feature was the number of languages in
+use. Even Dalmatia, Bosnia, and the Hercegovina, where a
+three-languaged man is the rule, paled into insignificance. There was
+a Turkish official staying at Reinwein's, transacting business for his
+Government, and every evening men came to see him; that man was to be
+heard--he was a Neapolitan by birth--conversing fluently in Turkish,
+Albanian, Serb, Greek, Italian, and French, alternately. One evening I
+was trying to follow the conversation, which began in Italian, then he
+wandered off into other tongues, explaining, evidently, a letter
+written in Turkish. I got interested and went over to his table, and,
+afterwards, he told me which languages he had been using. Besides this
+little list, Reinwein spoke Russian with another man, German largely
+with us, and P. and I passed remarks to each other in English, which
+was the only unknown language. One evening two Hungarian tourists
+arrived, and then we fled from that Babel, fearing for our reason.
+
+An affable old Turk, seedy in appearance, but extremely entertaining,
+owned to six languages, not counting others of which he had only a
+smattering. Serb he didn't count as he said he could only talk on easy
+subjects in that tongue. It is very humiliating, that sort of thing,
+it is liable to lower the opinion of one's own intelligence. We kept
+late hours, too, at Reinwein's, we couldn't help it.
+
+But all good things must come to an end, and at last the day of our
+departure arrived. Cetinje itself was quite a different place to us
+than when we knew it formerly. Representative of the land in a certain
+sense it rightly is, but then a fairly full knowledge of the country
+must be acquired first to understand in what respects it represents
+the life and customs of the people beyond. To the stranger who extends
+his visit for only a week, it is sure to give manifold false
+impressions, for though Montenegro is quiet and peaceable enough, the
+appearance of Cetinje is rather too assuring. For here there is little
+trace of vendetta and quarrelling, which, however, under the powerful
+hand of the present Prince Nicolas, are surely dying out through all
+the land. When the fact is taken into consideration that the
+Montenegro of forty years ago was a rough and dangerous country,
+inhabited by a people who knew nothing of the outside world, and lived
+simply for themselves in their own land, it will be seen what
+miraculous progress has been made in the path of civilisation during
+the present reign. Peace and order have been established to a
+wonderful degree, and the State reorganised and set on a surer basis.
+With a powerful hand and not too much external help the Prince has
+carried through his reforms, and, like David in his final exhortation
+to Solomon, leaves the way ready for still greater progress to be made
+in the future. And the comparison holds good in more respects than
+one.
+
+We drank our last little cup of coffee, oddly enough, in the
+historical monastery of Ivan Beg in the company of the Vladika, to
+whom we were paying our farewell respects, and half an hour later were
+whirling down to Bajice under the shadow of the mighty Lovćen.
+
+As the grand Bocche di Cattaro again burst on our view and the first
+black and yellow sign-post of Austria was passed, we turned again for
+a last look at those seemingly forbidding and inhospitable mountains;
+but only forbidding and inhospitable to the enemy of the brave little
+race beyond. To the stranger, fresh from the comforts and improvements
+of civilisation, it is a revelation of how men live, knowing nothing
+of the luxuries of the outer world, and keep themselves untarnished in
+honour; honest and God-fearing where a man is judged by his deeds and
+not by his words. Where men do not steal or lie, and where the humble
+peasant looks his Prince in the face and says--
+
+"Lord, I am a man like thyself."
+
+They have their faults and failings, many of their customs seem
+barbaric to our eyes: but may they long be preserved from the evils of
+civilisation!
+
+Later, as the ship ploughed her way through the waves, and the
+mountains of Crnagora became ever more and more faint and indistinct,
+we thought of Tennyson's words:--
+
+    "They rose to where their sov'ran eagle sails,
+    They kept their faith, their freedom, on the height,
+    Chaste, frugal, savage, armed by day and night
+    Against the Turk; whose inroad nowhere scales
+    Their headlong passes, but his footstep fails,
+    And red with blood the Crescent reels from fight
+    Before their dauntless hundreds in prone flight
+    By thousands down the crags and through the vales.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    O smallest among peoples! rough rock-throne
+    Of Freedom! warriors beating back the swarm
+    Of Turkish Islâm for five hundred years,
+    Great Crnagora! never since thine own
+    Black ridges drew the cloud and broke the storm
+    Has breathed a race of mightier mountaineers."
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Alarm,      87, 187
+Albanian costume,      139
+  " custom house,      133
+  " mass,      231
+Andrijevica,      65, 183
+Antivari,      113, 270
+Army,      26, 27, 46
+Austria,      8, 13, 137
+
+Babel,      295
+Bajice,      281
+Balšić,      17
+Band of Good Hope,      155
+Barracks,      46
+Bella Vista,      55, 143
+Billard,      43
+Bogetić,      250
+Bojana,      121, 132
+Brda,      2, 145
+Budua,      22
+Business methods,      77
+
+Cardplaying,      169
+Carina,      206
+Catherine II.,      21
+Cattaro,      22, 34
+  " Bocche di,      33
+Caxton,      19
+Cetinje,      18, 40, 42, 280
+Church,      13
+  " militant,      137
+Conversation,      285
+Crimean War,      22
+Crnagora,      15, 17, 297
+Crna Zemlja,      74, 271
+Curzola,      33
+
+Daibabe,      89
+Danilo, Crown Prince,      7, 30, 114, 156
+Danilo II.,      22
+Danilovgrad,      69, 249
+Death dirge,      85
+Dinoš,      234, 236
+Dukla,      93
+Dulcigno (Ulcinj),      24, 117, 270
+
+Easter,      66, 74
+Edward VII.,      166
+
+Fatalism,      228
+Fishing,      105
+Food,      3, 107, 170, 196
+Fundina,      83, 233
+
+Gambling,      7, 265
+Gjolić,      208
+Grahovo,      23
+Gravosa,      33
+Gugga,      265
+Gusinje,      25, 187, 197, 205, 216
+Guslar,      39
+
+Heraclius,      16
+Hildebrand,      16
+Hospital,      46, 287
+Hospitality,      60
+Hotti,      227
+
+Imperfect valleys,      2
+
+Karst,      2
+Katunska,      2
+Kećo,      233
+Kiuprili Pasha,      20
+Klementi,      20, 271
+Kohl,      5
+Kolašin,      65, 153
+Kolo,      157
+Kom, Kućki,      211
+   " Vasojevićki,      199
+Konjuhe,      205
+Korito,      222
+Kostice,      223
+Krivošejans,      23
+Kruševac,      62, 72
+Kuć,      20, 79, 206, 227
+
+Lakić Voivodić,      183
+Law,      28, 290
+Lesina (Hvar),      33
+Lijeva Rijeka,      150
+Lim,      183
+Ljubotin,      143
+Lovćen,      28, 103, 265
+Lunatic Asylum,      69
+
+Mala,      148
+Market,      73
+Marko Ivanković,      118
+Martinović,      154
+Medun,      83
+Memorial stones,      214, 221
+Michael Dožić,      164
+Militia,      171
+Mirko (father to the reigning Prince),      23, 249
+Mokra,      182, 228
+Morača,      101, 147
+  "    monastery,      162
+Morina,      198
+
+Nicolas, Prince,      4, 5, 9, 43, 115, 177, 261
+Nikšić,      24, 250, 259
+Njeguši,      38
+
+Obod,      19, 59
+Ostrog,      160, 248
+
+Pannonia,      32
+Perušica,      204
+Peter, St.,      21
+Peter II.,      21
+Petri,      265
+Petrović,      20
+Pilgrims,      251
+Plavnica,      110
+Podgorica,      15, 28, 56, 66, 241, 263
+Pola,      32
+Popović, Simeon,      89
+Prison,      28, 47, 69, 292
+Procletia,      216, 226
+Prstan,      113
+
+Quagmires,      152
+
+Radonić,      20
+Ragusa,      33
+Raskrsnica,      175
+Reinwein,      294
+Revolvers,      37
+Rijeka,      56, 58, 142
+Rikavac,      218
+Risano,      34, 260
+Roads,      29, 36, 65, 132, 146
+Roman Catholics,      13, 223, 225
+Rumija, 56, 103
+
+Samuel, Czar,      16
+Sandjak of Novipazar,      1, 14
+Scutari,      15, 135
+Shooting,      57, 88, 90,103, 198, 217
+Skenderbeg,      17, 265
+Sokol Bačo,      100
+Spalato,      32
+Spizza,      22
+Spuž,      89, 249
+Stature,      6
+Stefan Crnoiević,      17
+Stefan Dužan,      16
+Stefan Mali,      21
+Stefan Nemanja,      16, 160
+Sutorman Pass,      112
+
+Tara,      152
+Terpetlis,      205
+Teuta,      15
+Theatre,      46
+Tobacco,      105
+Topolica,      111
+Trieste,      31
+Tusi,      234
+
+Uiko, Achmet,      96, 120, 244
+
+Vaccination,      129
+Velika,      195
+Vendetta,      75, 205, 225, 239, 240, 247, 281
+Venice,      19
+Virpazar,      110
+Vizier Bridge,      62
+Vladika,      43
+  " Mitrofanban,      44, 253, 296
+Voivoda Marko,      79, 233
+  " of the Zeta,      18, 62
+Vranjina,      103, 110
+Vučipotok,      213
+
+Wake, Montenegrin,      281
+Women,      5, 71, 243
+Wurmbrand,      31
+
+Yussuf Mučić,      81
+
+Zabljak,      17, 102
+Zara,      32
+Zatrijebać,      223
+Zem,      226, 241, 272
+Zeta,      1, 249
+
+
+
+
+A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS
+PUBLISHED BY METHUEN
+AND COMPANY: LONDON
+36 ESSEX STREET
+W.C.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+GENERAL LITERATURE,
+
+  ANTIQUARY'S BOOKS,
+
+  BEGINNER'S BOOKS,
+
+  BUSINESS BOOKS,
+
+  BYZANTINE TEXTS,
+
+  CHURCHMAN'S BIBLE,
+
+  CHURCHMAN'S LIBRARY,
+
+  CLASSICAL TRANSLATIONS,
+
+  COMMERCIAL SERIES,
+
+  CONNOISSEUR'S LIBRARY,
+
+  LIBRARY OF DEVOTION,
+
+  ILLUSTRATED POCKET LIBRARY OF PLAIN AND COLOURED BOOKS,
+
+  JUNIOR EXAMINATION SERIES,
+
+  METHUEN'S JUNIOR SCHOOL-BOOKS,
+
+  LEADERS OF RELIGION,
+
+  LITTLE BLUE BOOKS,
+
+  LITTLE BOOKS ON ART,
+
+  LITTLE GALLERIES,
+
+  LITTLE GUIDES,
+
+  LITTLE LIBRARY,
+
+  METHUEN'S MINIATURE LIBRARY,
+
+  OXFORD BIOGRAPHIES,
+
+  SCHOOL EXAMINATION SERIES,
+
+  SOCIAL QUESTIONS OF TO-DAY,
+
+  HANDBOOKS OF THEOLOGY,
+
+  METHUEN'S STANDARD LIBRARY,
+
+  WESTMINSTER COMMENTARIES,
+
+
+FICTION,
+
+  METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS,
+
+  BOOKS FOR BOYS AND GIRLS,
+
+  NOVELS OF ALEXANDRE DUMAS,
+
+
+
+
+A CATALOGUE OF MESSRS. METHUEN'S PUBLICATIONS
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Colonial Editions are published of all Messrs. METHUEN'S
+Novels issued at a price above _2s. 6d._, and similar editions are
+published of some works of General Literature. These are marked in the
+Catalogue. Colonial editions are only for circulation in the British
+Colonies and India.
+
+An asterisk denotes that a book is in the Press.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+PART I.--GENERAL LITERATURE
+
+Abbot (Jacob). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Acatos (M.J.). Modern Language Master at King Edward School, Birmingham.
+See Junior School Books.
+
+Adams (Frank). JACK SPRATT. With 24 Coloured Pictures. _Super Royal
+16mo. 2s._
+
+Adeney (W.F.), M.A. See Bennett and Adeney.
+
+Æschylus. See Classical Translations.
+
+Æsop. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Ainsworth (W. Harrison). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+*Alderson (J.P.) MR. ASQUITH. With Portraits and Illustrations. _Demy
+8vo. 6d. net._
+
+Alexander (William), D.D. Archbishop of Armagh. THOUGHTS AND COUNSELS OF
+MANY YEARS. Selected by J.H. BURN, B.D. _Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Alken (Henry). THE NATIONAL SPORTS OF GREAT BRITAIN. With descriptions
+in English and French. With 51 Coloured Plates. _Royal Folio. Five
+Guineas net._ See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Allen (Jessie). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Allen (J. Romilly), F.S.A. See Antiquary's Books.
+
+Almack (E.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Amherst (Lady). A SKETCH OF EGYPTIAN HISTORY FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO
+THE PRESENT DAY. With many illustrations, some of which are in Colour.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Anderson (F.M.). THE STORY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE FOR CHILDREN. With
+many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Andrewes (Bishop). PRECES PRIVATAE. Edited, with Notes, by F.E.
+BRIGHTMAN, M.A., of Pusey House, Oxford. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Aristophanes. THE FROGS. Translated into English by E.W. HUNTINGFORD,
+M.A., Professor of Classics in Trinity College, Toronto. _Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Aristotle. THE NICOMACHEAN ETHICS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by JOHN BURNETT, M.A., Professor of Greek at St. Andrews. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Ashton (R.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Atkins (H.G.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Atkinson (C.M.). JEREMY BENTHAM. _Demy 8vo. 5s. net._ A biography of
+this great thinker, and an estimate of his work and influence.
+
+Atkinson (T.D.). A SHORT HISTORY OF ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. With over
+200 Illustrations by the Author and others. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Aurelius (Marcus). See Methuen's University Library.
+
+Austen (Jane). See Little Library and Methuen's University Library.
+
+Aves (Ernest). See Books on Business.
+
+Bacon (Francis). See Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Baden-Powell (R.S.S.), Major-General. THE DOWNFALL OF PREMPEH. A Diary
+of Life in Ashanti, 1895. With 21 Illustrations and a Map. _Third
+Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896. With nearly 100 Illustrations. _Fourth
+and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._;
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Baker (W.G.) M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Baker (Julian L.) F.I.C., F.C.S. See Books on Business.
+
+Balfour (Graham). THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. _Second Edition.
+Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 25s. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bally (S.E.) See Commercial Series.
+
+Banks (Elizabeth L.). THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A 'NEWSPAPER GIRL'. With a
+Portrait of the Author and her Dog. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Barham (R.H.) See Little Library.
+
+Baring-Gould (S.) Author of 'Mehalah,' etc. THE LIFE OF NAPOLEON
+BONAPARTE. With over 450 Illustrations in the Text, and 12 Photogravure
+Plates. _Gill top, Large quarto. 36s._
+THE TRAGEDY OF THE CÆSARS. With numerous Illustrations from Busts,
+Gems, Cameos, etc. _Fifth Edition. Royal 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations and Initial Letters
+by ARTHUR J. GASKIN. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram, 6s._
+A BOOK OF BRITTANY. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+Uniform in scope and size with Mr. Baring-Gould's well-known books on
+Devon, Cornwall, and Dartmoor.
+OLD ENGLISH FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations by F.D. BEDFORD.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram, 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE VICAR OF MORWENSTOW: A Biography. A new and Revised Edition. With
+a Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+A completely new edition of the well-known biography of R.S. Hawker.
+DARTMOOR: A Descriptive and Historical Sketch. With Plans and numerous
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE BOOK OF THE WEST. With numerous Illustrations. _Two volumes._ Vol.
+I, Devon. _Second Edition._ Vol. II. Cornwall _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s. each._
+A BOOK OF NORTH WALES. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+This book is uniform with Mr. Baring-Gould's books on Devon, Dartmoor,
+and Brittany.
+*A BOOK OF SOUTH WALES. With many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A BOOK OF GHOSTS. With 8 Illustrations by D. Murray Smith. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+OLD COUNTRY LIFE. With 67 Illustrations. _Fifth Edition. Large Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+*AN OLD ENGLISH HOME. With numerous Plans and Illustrations. _Cr.
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+*YORKSHIRE ODDITIES AND STRANGE EVENTS. _Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo.
+2s. 6d. net._
+*STRANGE SURVIVALS AND SUPERSTITIONS. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s.
+6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+A GARLAND OF COUNTRY SONG: English Folk Songs with their Traditional
+Melodies. Collected and arranged by S. BARING-GOULD and H.F. SHEPPARD.
+_Demy 4to. 6s._
+SONGS OF THE WEST: Traditional Ballads and Songs of the West of
+England, with their Melodies. Collected by S. BARING-GOULD
+and H.F. SHEPARD, M.A. In 4 Parts. _Parts I., II., III., 2s.
+6d. each. Part IV., 4s. In One Volume, French Morocco, 10s. net.;
+Roan, 15s._
+See also The Little Guides.
+
+Barker (Aldred F.). Author of 'Pattern Analysis,' etc. See Textbooks
+of Technology.
+
+Barnes (W.E.), D.D., Hulsaean Professor of Divinity at Cambridge. See
+Churchman's Bible.
+
+Barnett (Mrs. P.A.). See Little Library.
+
+Baron (R.R.N.), M.A. FRENCH PROSE COMPOSITION. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+Key, 3s. net._ See also Junior School Books.
+
+Barron (H.M.), M.A., Wadham College, Oxford. TEXTS FOR SERMONS. With
+a Preface by Canon SCOTT HOLLAND. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Bastable (C.F.), M.A., Professor of Economics at Trinity College,
+Dublin. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Batson (Mrs. Stephen). A BOOK OF THE COUNTRY AND THE GARDEN. Illustrated
+by F. CARRUTHERS GOULD and A.C. GOULD. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF GARDEN FLOWERS. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+*Batten (Loring W.). Ph.D., S.T.D., Rector of St. Mark's Church,
+New York; sometime Professor in the Philadelphia Divinity School. THE
+HEBREW PROPHET. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Beaman (A. Hulme). PONS ASINORUM; OR, A GUIDE TO BRIDGE. _Second
+Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s._
+
+Beard (W.S.) See Junior Examination Series.
+EASY EXERCISES IN ARITHMETIC. Arranged by. _Cr. 8vo._ Without Answers,
+_1s._ With Answers, _1s. 3d._
+
+Beckford (Peter). THOUGHTS ON HUNTING. Edited by J. OTHO PAGET, and
+Illustrated by G.H. JALLAND. _Second and Cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Beckford (William). See Little Library.
+
+Beeching (H.C.), M.A., Canon of Westminster. See Library of
+Devotion.
+
+Behmen (Jacob). THE SUPERSENSUAL LIFE. Edited by BERNARD
+HOLLAND. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Belloc (Hilaire). PARIS. With Maps and Illustrations. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Bellot (H.H.L.), M.A. THE INNER AND MIDDLE TEMPLE. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s. net._
+See also L.A.A. Jones.
+
+Bennet (W.H.), M.A. A PRIMER OF THE BIBLE. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Bennett (W.H.) and Adeney (W.F.). A BIBLICAL INTRODUCTION. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Benson (Archbishop). GOD'S BOARD: Communion Addresses. _Fcap, 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Benson (A.C.), M.A. See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Benson (R.M.). THE WAY OF HOLINESS: a Devotional Commentary on the
+119th Psalm. _Crown 8vo. 5s._
+
+Bernard (E.R.), M.A., Canon of Salisbury. THE ENGLISH SUNDAY. _Fcap.
+8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Bertouch (Baroness de). THE LIFE OF FATHER IGNATIUS, O.S.B., THE
+MONK OF LLANTHONY. With Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bethune-Baker (J.F.), M.A., Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge.
+See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Bidez (M.). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Biggs (C.R.D.), D.D. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+Bindley (T. Herbert), B.D. THE OECUMENICAL DOCUMENTS OF THE FAITH.
+With Introductions and Notes. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A historical account of the Creeds.
+
+Binyon (Laurence). THE DEATH OF ADAM, AND OTHER POEMS. _Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Birnstingl (Ethel). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Blair (Robert). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Blake (William). See Illustrated Pocket Library and Little Library.
+
+Blaxland (B.), M.A. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Bloom (T. Harvey), M.A. SHAKESPEARE'S GARDEN. With Illustrations.
+_Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; leather, 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Blouet (Henri). See The Beginner's Books.
+
+Boardman (T.H.). See Text Books of Technology.
+
+Bodley (J.E.C.), Author of 'France.' THE CORONATION OF EDWARD VII.
+_Demy 8vo. 21s. net._ By Command of the King.
+
+Body (George), D.D. THE SOUL'S PILGRIMAGE: Devotional Readings from his
+published and unpublished writings. Selected and arranged by J.H. BURN,
+B.D. F.R.S.E. _Pott 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Bona (Cardinal). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Boon (F.C.), See Commercial Series.
+
+Borrow (George), See Little Library.
+
+Bos (J. Ritzema). AGRICULTURAL ZOOLOGY. Translated by J.R. AINSWORTH
+DAVIS, M.A. With an Introduction by ELEANOR A. ORMEROD, F.E.S. With 153
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. Third Edition. 3s. 6d._
+
+Botting (C.G.), B.A. EASY GREEK EXERCISES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._ See also
+Junior Examination Series.
+
+Boulton (E.S.). GEOMETRY ON MODERN LINES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Bowden (E.M.). THE IMITATION OF BUDDHA: Being Quotations from Buddhist
+Literature for each Day in the Year. _Fourth Edition. Crown 16mo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Boyle (W.). CHRISTMAS AT THE ZOO. With Verses by W. BOYLE and 24
+Coloured Pictures by H.B. NEILSON. _Super Royal 16mo. 2s._
+
+Brabant (F.G.), M.A. See The Little Guides.
+
+Brodrick (Mary) and Morton (Anderson). A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF EGYPTIAN
+ARCHÆOLOGY. With many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Brooke (A.S.), M.A. SLINGSBY AND SLINGSBY CASTLE. With many
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Brooks (E.W.). See Byzantine Tests.
+
+Brown (P.H.), Fraser Professor of Ancient (Scottish) History at the
+University of Edinburgh. SCOTLAND IN THE TIME OF QUEEN MARY. _Demy
+8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Browne (Sir Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Brownell (C.L.). THE HEART OF JAPAN. Illustrated. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.; also Demy 8vo. 6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Browning (Robert). See Little Library.
+
+Buckhand (Francis T.). CURIOSITIES OF NATURAL HISTORY. With
+Illustrations by HARRY B. NEILSON. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Buckton (A.M.). THE BURDEN OF ENGELA: a Ballad-Epic. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+EAGER HEART: A Mystery Play. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. net._
+
+Budge (E.A. Wallis). THE GODS OF THE EGYPTIANS. With over 100 Coloured
+Plates and many Illustrations, _Two Volumes. Royal 8vo. £3. 3s. net._
+
+Bull (Paul), Army Chaplain. GOD AND OUR SOLDIERS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bulley (Miss). See Social Question Series.
+
+Bunyan (John). THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. Edited, with an Introduction,
+by C.H. FIRTH, M.A. With 39 Illustrations by R. ANNING BELL. _Cr. 8vo.
+6s._ See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Burch (G.J.), M.A., F.R.S. A MANUAL OF ELECTRICAL SCIENCE. With
+numerous illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s._
+
+Burgess (Gelett). GOOPS AND HOW TO BE THEM. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Small 4to. 6s._
+
+Burke (Edmund). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Burn (A.E.), D.D., Prebendary of Lichfield. See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Burn (J.H.), B.D. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Burnand (Sir F.C.). RECORDS AND REMINISCENCES, PERSONAL AND GENERAL.
+With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. Two Volumes. Third Edition. 25s.
+net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Burns (Robert), THE POEMS OF. Edited by ANDREW LANG and W.A. CRAIGIE.
+With Portrait. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo, gilt top. 6s._
+
+Burnside (W.F.), M.A. OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY FOR USE IN SCHOOLS. _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Burton (Alfred). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Butler (Joseph). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Caldecott (Alfred), D.D. See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Calderwood (D.S.), Headmaster of the Normal School, Edinburgh. TEST
+CARDS IN EUCLID AND ALGEBRA. In three packets of 40, with Answers,
+_1s._ each. Or in three Books, price _2d., 2d., and 3d._
+
+Cambridge (Ada) [Mrs. Cross]. THIRTY YEARS IN AUSTRALIA. _Demy 8vo. 7s.
+6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Canning (George). See Little Library.
+
+Capey (E.F.H.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Careless (John). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Carlyle (Thomas). THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. Edited by C.R.L. FLETCHER,
+Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. _Three Volumes. Crown 8vo. 18s._
+THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF OLIVER CROMWELL. With an introduction by C.H.
+FIRTH, M.A., and Notes and Appendices by Mrs. S.C. LOMAS. _Three
+Volumes. Demy 8vo. 18s. net._
+
+Carlyle (R.M. and A.J.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Chamberlin (Wilbur B.). ORDERED TO CHINA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Channer (C.C.) and Roberts (M.E.). LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS, PAST AND
+PRESENT. With 16 full-page Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Chatterton (Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Chesterfield (Lord), THE LETTERS OF, TO HIS SON. Edited, with an
+Introduction by C. STRACHEY, and Notes by A. CALTHROP. _Two Volumes. Cr.
+8vo. 12s._
+
+Christian (F.W.) THE CAROLINE ISLANDS. With many Illustrations and
+Maps. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
+
+Cicero. See Classical Translations.
+
+Clarke (F.A.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Cleather (A.L.) and Crump (B.). RICHARD WAGNER'S MUSIC DRAMAS:
+Interpretations, embodying Wagner's own explanations. _In Four Volumes.
+Fcap 8vo. 2s. 6d. each._
+VOL. I.--THE RING OF THE NIBELUNG.
+VOL. II.--PARSIFAL, LOHENGRIN, and THE HOLY GRAIL.
+
+Clinch (G.) See The Little Guides.
+
+Clough (W.T.), Head of the Physical Department East Ham Technical
+College. See Junior School Books.
+
+Coast (W.G.), B.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN VERGIL. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Cobb (T.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Collingwood (W.G.), M.A. THE LIFE OF JOHN RUSKIN. With Portraits. _New
+and Cheaper Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s._ Also a Popular Edition. _Cr. 8vo. 2s.
+6d. net._
+
+Collins (W.E.), M.A. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Colonna. HYPNEROTOMACHIA POLIPHILI UBI HUMANA OMNIA NON NISI SOMNIUM
+ESSE DOCET ATQUE OBITER PLURIMA SCITU SANE QUAM DIGNA COMMEMORAT. An
+edition limited to 350 copies on hand-made paper. _Folio. Three Guineas
+net._
+
+Combe (William). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Cook (A.M.), M.A. See E.C. Marchant.
+
+Cooke-Taylor (R.W.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Corelli (Marie). THE PASSING OF THE GREAT QUEEN: A Tribute to the
+Noble Life of Victoria Regina. _Small 4to. 1s._
+A CHRISTMAS GREETING. _Sm. 4to. 1s._
+
+Corkran (Alice). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Cotes (Rosemary). DANTE'S GARDEN. With a Frontispiece. _Second Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. cloth 2s. 6d.; leather, 3s. 6d. net._
+BIBLE FLOWERS. With a Frontispiece and Plan. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Cowley (Abraham). See Little Library.
+
+Cox (J. Charles), LL.D., F.S.A. See Little Guides.
+
+Cox (Harold), B.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Crabbe (George). See Little Library.
+
+Craigie (W.A.). A PRIMER OF BURNS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Craik (Mrs.). See Little Library.
+
+Crashaw (Richard). See Little Library.
+
+Crawford (F.G.). See Mary C. Danson.
+
+Crouch (W.), BRYAN KING. With a Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Cruikshank (G.). THE LOVING BALLAD OF LORD BATEMAN. With 11 Plates.
+_Crown 16vo. 1s. 6d. net._
+From the edition published by C. Tilt, 1811.
+
+Crump (B.). See A.L. Cleather.
+
+Cunliffe (F.H.E.), Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford. THE HISTORY
+OF THE BOER WAR. With many Illustrations, Plans, and Portraits. _In 2
+vols. Quarto. 15s. each._
+
+Cutts (E.L.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Daniell (G.W.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Danson (Mary C.) and Crawford (F.G.). FATHERS IN THE FAITH. _Small
+8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Dante. LA COMMEDIA DI DANTE. The Italian Text edited by PAGET TOYNBEE,
+M.A., D. Litt. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Paget Toynbee, Little Library,
+and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Darley (George). See Little Library.
+
+Davenport (Cyril). See Connoisseur's Library and Little Books on
+Art.
+
+Dawson (A.J.). MOROCCO. Being a bundle of jottings, notes, impressions,
+tales, and tributes. With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Deane (A.C.). See Little Library.
+
+Delbos (Leon). THE METRIC SYSTEM. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Demosthenes: THE OLYNTHIACS AND PHILIPPICS. Translated upon a new
+principle by OTHO HOLLAND _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Demosthenes. AGAINST CONON AND CALLICLES. Edited with Notes and
+Vocabulary, by F. DARWIN SWIFT, M.A. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s._
+
+Dickens (Charles). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Dickinson (Emily). POEMS. First Series. _Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Dickinson (G. L.). M.A., Fellow of King's College, Cambridge. THE GREEK
+VIEW OF LIFE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Dickson (H.N.). F.R.S.E., F.R.Met. Soc METEOROLOGY, Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Dilke (Lady). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Dillon (Edward). See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Ditchfield (P.H.). M.A., F.S.A. ENGLISH VILLAGES. Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+THE STORY OF OUR ENGLISH TOWNS. With an Introduction by AUGUSTUS
+JESSOPP, D.D. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+OLD ENGLISH CUSTOMS: Extant at the Present Time. An Account of Local
+Observances, Festival Customs, and Ancient Ceremonies yet Surviving in
+Great Britain. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Dixon (W.H.). M.A. A PRIMER OF TENNYSON. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+ENGLISH POETRY FROM BLAKE TO BROWNING. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Dole (N.H.). FAMOUS COMPOSERS. With Portraits. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo
+net._
+
+Dowden (J.). D.D., Lord Bishop of Edinburgh. See Churchman's Library
+
+Drage (G.) See Books on Business.
+
+Driver (S.R.). D.D., Canon of Christ Church, Regius Professor of
+Hebrew in the University of Oxford. SERMONS ON SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH
+THE OLD TESTAMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Dryhurst (A.R.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Duguid (Charles), City Editor of the _Morning Post,_ Author of the
+'Story of the Stock Exchange,' etc. See Books on Business.
+
+Duncan (S.J.) (Mrs. COTES), Author of 'A Voyage of
+Consolation.' ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LATCH. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Dunn (J.T.), D.Sc., and Mundella (V.A.). GENERAL ELEMENTARY
+SCIENCE. With 114 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Dunstan (A.E.), B.Sc., Head of the Chemical Department, East Ham
+Technical College. See Junior School Books.
+
+*Durham (The Earl Of). A REPORT ON CANADA. With an Introductory Note.
+_Demy 8vo. 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Dutt (W.A.). A POPULAR GUIDE TO NORFOLK. _Medium 8vo. 6d. net._ THE
+NORFOLK BROADS. With coloured and other Illustrations by FRANK
+SOUTHGATE. _Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net._ See also The Little Guides.
+
+Earle (John), Bishop of Salisbury. MICROCOSMOGRAPHE, OR A PIECE OF THE
+WORLD DISCOVERED; IN ESSAYES AND CHARACTERS. _Post 16mo. 2s. net._
+Reprinted from the Sixth Edition published by Robert Allot in 1633.
+
+Edwards (Clement). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Edwards (W. Douglas). See Commercial Series.
+
+*Edwards (Betham). HOME LIFE IN FRANCE. With many Illustrations. _Demy
+8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Egan (Pierce). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Egerton (H.E.), M.A. A HISTORY OF BRITISH COLONIAL POLICY. _Demy 8vo.
+12s. 6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Ellaby (C.G.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Ellerton (P.G.). See S. I. Stone.
+
+Ellwood (Thomas), THE HISTORY OF THE LIFE OF. Edited by C.G. CRUMP, M.A.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Engel (E.). A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE: From its Beginning to
+Tennyson. Translated from the German. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Fairbrother (W.H.), M.A. THE PHILOSOPHY OF T. H. GREEN. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+FELISSA; OR, THE LIFE AND OPINIONS OF A KITTEN OF SENTIMENT. With 12
+Coloured Plates. _Post 16mo. 2s. 6d. net._ (5-1/2 X 3-1/2).
+From the edition published by J. Harris, 1811.
+
+Farrer (Reginald). THE GARDEN OF ASIA. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Ferrier (Susan). See Little Library.
+
+Fidler (T. Claxton), M. Inst. C.E., Professor of Engineering, University
+College, Dundee in the University of St. Andrews. See Books on Business.
+
+Fielding (Henry). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Finn (S.W.), M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Firth (C.H.), M.A. CROMWELL'S ARMY: A History of the English Soldier
+during the Civil Wars, the Commonwealth, and the Protectorate. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Fisher (G.W.), M.A. ANNALS OF SHREWSBURY SCHOOL. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+FitzGerald (Edward). THE RUB'AIYAT OF OMAR KHAYYÀM. Printed from the
+Fifth and last Edition. With a Commentary by Mrs. STEPHEN BATSON, and a
+Biography of Omar by E.D. Ross. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Miniature
+Library.
+
+Flecker (W.H.), M.A., D.C.L., Headmaster of the Dean Close School,
+Cheltenham. THE STUDENT'S PRAYER BOOK. Part I. MORNING AND EVENING
+PRAYER AND LITANY. With an Introduction and Notes. _Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Flux (A.W.), M.A., William Dow Professor of Political Economy in
+M'Gill University, Montreal: sometime Fellow of St. John's College,
+Cambridge, and formerly Stanley-Jevons Professor of Political Economy
+in the Owens Coll., Manchester. ECONOMIC PRINCIPLES. _Demy 8vo. 7s.
+6d. net._
+
+Fortescue (Mrs. G.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Fraser (David). A MODERN CAMPAIGN; OR, WAR AND WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY
+IN THE FAR EAST. Illustrated. _Crown. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fraser (J.F.). ROUND THE WORLD ON A WHEEL. With 100 Illustrations.
+_Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+French (W.). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Freudenreich (Ed. von). DAIRY BACTERIOLOGY. A Short Manual for the Use
+of Students. Translated by J.R. AINSWORTH DAVIS, M.A. _Second Edition.
+Revised. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Fulford (H.W.), M.A. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+C.G. and F.C.G. JOHN BULL'S ADVENTURES IN THE FISCAL WONDERLAND. By
+CHARLES GEAKE. With 46 Illustrations by F. CARRUTHERS GOULD. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Gallichan (W.M.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Gambado (Geoffrey, Esq.). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Gaskell (Mrs.). See Little Library.
+
+Gasquet, the Right Rev. Abbot, O.S.B. See Antiquary's Books.
+
+George (H.B.), M.A., Fellow of New College, Oxford. BATTLES OF ENGLISH
+HISTORY. With numerous Plans. _Fourth Edition._ Revised, with a new
+Chapter including the South African War. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Gibbins (H. de B.), Litt. D., M.A. INDUSTRY IN ENGLAND: HISTORICAL
+OUTLINES. With 5 Maps. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+A COMPANION GERMAN GRAMMAR. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. _Tenth Edition._ Revised. With Maps
+and Plans. _Crown 8vo. 3s._
+ENGLISH SOCIAL REFORMERS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._ See
+also Commercial Series and Social Questions Series.
+
+Gibbon (Edward). THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. A New
+Edition, edited with Notes, Appendices, and Maps, by J.B. BURY, M.A.,
+Litt. D., Regius Professor of Greek at Cambridge. _In Seven Volumes.
+Demy 8vo. Gilt top, 8s. 6d. each. Also, Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+MEMOIRS OF MY LIFE AND WRITINGS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by G. BIRKBECK HILL, LL.D. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Gibson (E.C.S.), D.D., Vicar of Leeds. See Westminster Commentaries,
+Handbooks of Theology, and Oxford Biographies.
+
+Gilbert (A.R.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Godfrey (Elizabeth). A BOOK OF REMEMBRANCE. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Godley (A.D.), M.A., Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. LYRA FRIVOLA.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+VERSES TO ORDER. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+SECOND STRINGS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Goldsmith (Oliver). THE VICAR OF WAKEFIELD. With 24 Coloured Plates by
+T. ROWLANDSON. _Royal 8vo. One Guinea net._
+Reprinted from the edition of 1817. Also _Fcap. 32mo._ With 10 Plates in
+Photogravure by Tony Johannot. _Leather, 2s. 6d. net._ See also
+Illustrated Pocket Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Goudge (H.L.), M.A., Principal of Wells Theological College. See
+Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Graham (P. Anderson). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Granger (F.S.), M.A., Litt.D. PSYCHOLOGY. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._ THE SOUL OF A CHRISTIAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gray (E. M'Queen). GERMAN PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Gray (P.L.), B.Sc., formerly Lecturer in Physics in Mason University
+College, Birmingham. THE PRINCIPLES OF MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY: an
+Elementary Text-Book. With 181 Diagrams. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Green (G. Buckland), M.A., Assistant Master at Edinburgh Academy, late
+Fellow of St. John's College, Oxon. NOTES ON GREEK AND LATIN SYNTAX.
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Green (E.T.), M.A. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Greenidge (A.H.J.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ROME: During the Later Republic
+and the Early Principate. _In Six Volumes. Demy 8vo._ Vol. I. (133-104
+B.C.). _10s. 6d. net._
+
+Greenwell (Dora). See Miniature Library.
+
+Gregory (R.A.) THE VAULT OF HEAVEN. A Popular Introduction to Astronomy.
+With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Gregory (Miss E.C.). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Greville Minor. A MODERN JOURNAL. Edited by J.A. SPENDER. _Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Grinling (C.H.). A HISTORY OF THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, 1845-95. With
+Illustrations. Revised, with an additional chapter. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+Grubb (H.C.). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Guiney (Louisa I.). HURRELL FROUDE: Memoranda and Comments. Illustrated.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Gwynn (M.L.). A BIRTHDAY BOOK. _Royal 8vo. 12s._
+
+Hackett (John), B.D. A HISTORY OF THE ORTHODOX CHURCH OF CYPRUS. With
+Maps and Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Haddon (A.C.), Sc.D., F.R.S. HEAD-HUNTERS, BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN.
+With many Illustrations and a Map. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Hadfield (R.A.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hall (R.N.) and Neal (W.G.). THE ANCIENT RUINS OF RHODESIA. With
+numerous Illustrations. _Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Hall (R.N.). GREAT ZIMBABWE. With numerous Plans and Illustrations.
+_Royal 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hamilton (F.J.), D.D. See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Hammond (J.L.). CHARLES JAMES FOX: A Biographical Study. _Demy 8vo.
+10s. 6d._
+
+Hannay (D.). A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ROYAL NAVY, FROM EARLY TIMES TO THE
+PRESENT DAY. Illustrated. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. each._
+Vol. I. 1200-1688.
+
+Hannay (James O.), M.A. THE SPIRIT AND ORIGIN OF CHRISTIAN MONASTICISM.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._ THE WISDOM OF THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Hare, (A.T.), M.A. THE CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE INDUCTION COILS. With
+numerous Diagrams. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+Harrison (Clifford). READING AND READERS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Hawthorne (Nathaniel). See Little Library. HEALTH, WEALTH AND WISDOM.
+_Crown 8vo. 1s. net._
+
+Heath (Frank R.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Heath (Dudley). See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Hello (Ernest). STUDIES IN SAINTSHIP. Translated from the French by
+V.M. CRAWFORD. _Fcap 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Henderson (B.W.). Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford. THE LIFE AND
+PRINCIPATE OF THE EMPEROR NERO. With Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s.
+6d. net._
+
+Henderson (T.F.). See Little Library and Oxford Biographies.
+
+Henley (W.E.). ENGLISH LYRICS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Henley (W.E.) and Whibley (C.). A BOOK OF ENGLISH PROSE. _Crown 8vo.
+Buckram, gilt top. 6s._
+
+Henson (H.H.), B.D., Canon of Westminster. APOSTOLIC CHRISTIANITY:
+As Illustrated by the Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+LIGHT AND LEAVEN: HISTORICAL AND SOCIAL SERMONS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+DISCIPLINE AND LAW. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Herbert (George). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Herbert Of Cherbury (Lord). See Miniature Library.
+
+Hewins (W.A.S.), B.A. ENGLISH TRADE AND FINANCE IN THE SEVENTEENTH
+CENTURY. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Heywood (W.). PALIO AND PONTE: A Book of Tuscan Games. Illustrated.
+_Royal 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hilbert (T.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Hill (Glare), Registered Teacher to the City and Guilds of London
+Institute. See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Hill (Henry), B.A., Headmaster of the Boy's High School, Worcester,
+Cape Colony. A SOUTH AFRICAN ARITHMETIC. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+This book has been specially written for use in South African schools.
+
+Hillegas (Howard C.). WITH THE BOER FORCES. With 24 Illustrations.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hobhouse (Emily). THE BRUNT OF THE WAR. With Map and Illustrations.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Hobhouse (L.T.), Fellow of C.C.C., Oxford. THE THEORY OF KNOWLEDGE.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Hobson (J.A.), M.A. INTERNATIONAL TRADE: A Study of Economic Principles.
+_Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._ See also Social Questions Series.
+
+Hodgkin (T.), D.C.L. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hogg (Thomas Jefferson). SHELLEY AT OXFORD. With an Introduction by
+R.A. STREATFEILD. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. net._
+
+Holden-Stone (G. de). See Books on Business.
+
+Holdich (Sir T.H.). K.C.I.E. THE INDIAN BORDERLAND: being a Personal
+Record of Twenty Years. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Holdsworth (W.S.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. _In Two Volumes.
+Vol. I. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Holyoake (G.J.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hoppner. See Little Galleries.
+
+Horace. See Classical Translations.
+
+Horsburgh (E.L.S.), M.A. WATERLOO: A Narrative and Criticism. With
+Plans. _Second Edition. Crown. 8vo. 5s._ See also Oxford Biographies.
+
+Horth (A.C.)., Master of Art and Manual Training Departments, Roan
+School, Greenwich. See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Horton (R.F.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hosie (Alexander). MANCHURIA. With Illustrations and a Map. _Second
+Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+How (F.D.). SIX GREAT SCHOOLMASTERS. With Portraits and Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Howell (G.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hudson (Robert), MEMORIALS OF A WARWICKSHIRE PARISH. With many
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Hughes (C.E.). THE PRAISE OF SHAKESPEARE. An English Anthology. With
+a Preface by SIDNEY LEE. _Demy 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Hughes (Thomas). TOM BROWN'S SCHOOLDAYS. With an Introduction and
+Notes by VERNON RENDALL. _Leather. Royal 32mo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Hutchinson (Horace G.). THE NEW FOREST. Described by. Illustrated in
+colour with 50 Pictures by WALTER TYNDALE and 4 by Miss LUCY KEMP WELCH.
+_Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hutton (A.W.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hutton (R.H.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hutton (W.H.), M.A. THE LIFE OF SIR THOMAS MORE. With Portraits.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 5s._ See also Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hyett (F.A.). A SHORT HISTORY OF FLORENCE. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Ibsen (Henrik). BRAND. A Drama. Translated by WILLIAM WILSON. _Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Inge (W.R.), M.A., Fellow and Tutor of Hertford College, Oxford.
+CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. The Bampton Lectures for 1899. _Demy 8vo. 12s.
+6d. net_, See also Library of Devotion.
+
+Innes (A.D.), M.A. A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH IN INDIA. With Maps and
+Plans. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Jackson (S.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+Jackson (F. Hamilton). See The Little Guides.
+
+Jacob (F.), M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Jeans (J. Stephen). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Jeffreys (D. Gwyn). DOLLY'S THEATRICALS. Described and Illustrated
+with 24 Coloured Pictures. _Super Royal 16mo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Jenks (E.), M.A., Reader of Law in the University of Oxford. ENGLISH
+LOCAL GOVERNMENT. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Jessopp (Augustus), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Jevons (F.B.), M.A., Litt.D., Principal of Hatfield Hall, Durham. See
+Churchman's Library and Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Johnson (Mrs. Barham). WILLIAM BODHAM DONNE AND HIS FRIENDS. With
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Johnston (Sir H.H.), K.C.B. BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA. With nearly 200
+Illustrations and Six Maps. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 18s. net._
+
+Jones (H.). See Commercial Series.
+
+Jones (L.A. Atherley), K.C., M.P., and Bellot (Hugh H.L.). THE MINERS'
+GUIDE TO THE COAL MINES' REGULATION ACTS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Jonson (Ben). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Julian (Lady) Of Norwich. REVELATIONS OF DIVINE LOVE. Edited by GRACE
+WARRACK. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Juvenal. See Classical Translations.
+
+Kaufmann (M.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Keating (J.F.), D.D. THE AGAPE AND THE EUCHARIST. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Keats (John). THE POEMS OF. Edited with Introduction and Notes by E.
+de Selincourt, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._ See also Little Library
+and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Keble (John). THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. With an Introduction and Notes by W.
+LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College. Illustrated by R. ANNING BELL.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; padded morocco, 5s._ See also
+Library of Devotion.
+
+Kempis (Thomas A.). THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. With an Introduction by
+DEAN FARRAR. Illustrated by C.M. GERE. _Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s.
+6d.; padded morocco, 5s._ See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's
+Universal Library.
+Also Translated by C. BIGG, D.D. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Kennedy (James Houghton), D.D., Assistant Lecturer in Divinity in the
+University of Dublin. ST. PAUL'S SECOND AND THIRD EPISTLES TO THE
+CORINTHIANS. With Introduction, Dissertations and Notes. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Kestell (J.D.). THROUGH SHOT AND FLAME: Being the Adventures and
+Experiences of J.D. KESTELL, Chaplain to General Christian de Wet.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Kimmins (C.W.), M.A. THE CHEMISTRY OF LIFE AND HEALTH. Illustrated.
+_Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Kinglake (A.W.). See Little Library.
+
+Kipling (Rudyard). BARRACK-ROOM BALLADS. _73rd Thousand. Cr. 8vo.
+Twentieth Edition. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE SEVEN SEAS. _62nd Thousand. Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo, gilt top,
+6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE FIVE NATIONS. _41st Thousand. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. _Sixteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Knowling (E.J.), M.A., Professor of New Testament Exegesis at King's
+College, London. See Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Lamb (Charles and Mary), THE WORKS OF. Edited by E.V. LUCAS. With
+Numerous Illustrations. _In Seven Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. each._
+THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. With over 100 Illustrations by A. GARTH JONES, and
+an Introduction by E.V. LUCAS. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+THE KING AND QUEEN OF HEARTS: An 1805 Book for Children. Illustrated
+by WILLIAM MULREADY. A new edition, in facsimile, edited by E.V.
+LUCAS, _1s. 6d._
+See also Little Library.
+
+Lambert (F.A.H.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Lambros (Professor). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Lane-Poole (Stanley). A HISTORY OF EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. Fully
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Langbridge (F.), M.A., BALLADS OF THE BRAVE: Poems of Chivalry.
+Enterprise, Courage, and Constancy. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Law (William). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Leach (Henry). THE DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. A Biography. With 12
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo, 12s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+*Lee (Captain L. Melville). A HISTORY OF POLICE IN ENGLAND. _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Leigh (Percival). THE COMIC ENGLISH GRAMMAR. Embellished with upwards
+of 50 characteristic Illustrations by JOHN LEECH. _Post 16mo. 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Lewes (V.B.), M.A. AIR AND WATER. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Lisle (Fortunée de). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Littlehales (H.). See Antiquary's Books.
+
+Lock (Walter), D.D., Warden of Keble College. ST. PAUL, THE
+MASTER-BUILDER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._ See also Leaders
+of Religion.
+
+Locke (John). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Locker (F.). See Little Library.
+
+Longfellow (H.W.) See Little Library.
+
+Lorimer (George Horace). LETTERS FROM A SELF-MADE MERCHANT TO HIS SON.
+_Twelfth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+OLD GORGON GRAHAM. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Lover (Samuel). See Illustrated Pocket Library
+
+E.V.L. and C.L.G. ENGLAND DAY BY DAY: Or, The Englishman's Handbook to
+Efficiency. Illustrated by GEORGE MORROW. _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 4to.
+1s. net._
+A burlesque Year-Book and Almanac.
+
+Lucas (E.V.). THE LIFE OF CHARLES LAMB. With numerous Portraits and
+Illustrations. _Two Vols. Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Lucian. See Classical Translations.
+
+Lyde (L.W.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+Lydon (Noel S.). See Junior School Books.
+
+Lyttelton (Hon. Mrs. A.). WOMEN AND THEIR WORK. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+M.M. HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR. _Crown 8vo, 1s. net._
+
+Macaulay (Lord). CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL ESSAYS. Edited by F.C.
+MONTAGUE, M.A. _Three Volumes. Cr. 8vo. 18s._
+The only edition of this book completely annotated.
+
+M'Allen (J.E.B.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+MacCulloch (J.A.). See Churchman's Library.
+
+MacCunn (F.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+McDermott, (E.R.), Editor of the _Railway News_, City Editor of the
+_Daily News_. See Books on Business.
+
+M'Dowall (A.S.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Mackay (A.M.). See Churchman's Library.
+
+Magnus (Laurie), M.A. A PRIMER OF WORDSWORTH. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Mahaffy (J.P.), Litt. D. A HISTORY OF THE EGYPT OF THE PTOLEMIES.
+Fully Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Maitland (F.W.). LL.D., Downing Professor of the Laws of England in
+the University of Cambridge. CANON LAW IN ENGLAND. _Royal 8vo. 7s.
+6d._
+
+Maiden (H.E.), M.A. ENGLISH RECORDS. A Companion to the History of
+England. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE ENGLISH CITIZEN: HIS RIGHTS AND DUTIES. _Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Marchant (E.C.), M.A., Fellow of Peterhouse, Cambridge. A GREEK
+ANTHOLOGY. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Marchant (B.C.), M.A., and Cook (A.M.), M.A. PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN
+TRANSLATION. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Marlowe (Christopher). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Marr (J.E.), F.R.S., Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. THE
+SCIENTIFIC STUDY OF SCENERY. _Second Edition._ Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+AGRICULTURAL GEOLOGY. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Marvell (Andrew). See Little Library.
+
+Maskell (A.) See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Mason (A.J.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Massee (George). THE EVOLUTION OF PLANT LIFE: Lower Forms. With
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Masterman (C.F.G.), M.A. TENNYSON AS A RELIGIOUS TEACHER, _Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+May (Phil). THE PHIL MAY ALBUM. _Second Edition, 4to. 1s. net._
+
+Mellows (Emma S.). A SHORT STORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Michell (E.B.). THE ART AND PRACTICE OF HAWKING. With 3 Photogravures
+by G.E. LODGE, and other Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+*Millais (J.G.). THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF SIR JOHN EVERETT MILLAIS,
+President of the Royal Academy. With 319 Illustrations, of which 9 are
+in Photogravure. _New Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Millais (Sir John Everett). See Little Galleries.
+
+Millis (C.T.), M.I.M.E., Principal of the Borough Polytechnic College.
+See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Milne (J.G.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ROMAN EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Milton, John, THE POEMS OF, BOTH ENGLISH AND LATIN, Compos'd at several
+times. Printed by his true Copies.
+The Songs were set in Musick by Mr. HENRY LAWES, Gentleman of the
+Kings Chappel, and one of His Majesties Private Musick.
+Printed and published according to Order.
+Printed by RUTH RAWORTH for HUMPHREY MOSELEV, and are to be sold at
+the signe of the Princes Armes in Pauls Churchyard, 1645.
+See also Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Minchin (H.C.), M.A. See Little Galleries.
+
+Mitchell (P. Chalmers), M.A. OUTLINES OF BIOLOGY. Illustrated. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A text-book designed to cover the Schedule issued by the Royal College
+of Physicians and Surgeons.
+
+'Moil (A.)'. See Books on Business.
+
+Moir (D.M.). See Little Library.
+
+Moore (H.E.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Moran (Clarence G.). See Books on Business.
+
+More (Sir Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Morfill (W.R.), Oriel College, Oxford. A HISTORY OF RUSSIA FROM PETER
+THE GREAT TO ALEXANDER II. With Maps and Plans. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Morich (R.J.), late of Clifton College. See School Examination
+Series.
+
+Morris (J.E.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Morton (Miss Anderson). See Miss Brodrick.
+
+Moule (H.C.G.), D.D., Lord Bishop of Durham. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Muir (M.M. Pattison), M.A. THE CHEMISTRY OF FIRE. The Elementary
+Principles of Chemistry. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Mundella (V.A.), M.A. See J.T. Dunn.
+
+Munro (R.), LL. D. See The Antiquary's Books.
+
+Naval Officer (A). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Neal (W.G.). See R.N. Hall.
+
+Newman (J.H.) and Others. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Nichols (J.B.B.). See Little Library.
+
+Nicklin (T.), M.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN THUCYDIDES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Nimrod. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Northcote (James), R.A. THE CONVERSATIONS OF JAMES NORTHCOTE, R.A.,
+AND JAMES WARD. Edited by ERNEST FLETCHER. With many Portraits. _Demy
+8vo 10s. 6d._
+
+*Norway (A.H.), Author of 'Highways and Byways in Devon and Cornwall.'
+NAPLES. With 24 Coloured Illustrations by MAURICE GREIFFENHAGEN. A New
+Edition. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Novalis. THE DISCIPLES AT SAÏS AND OTHER FRAGMENTS. Edited by Miss UNA
+BIRCH. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Oman (C.W.C.), M.A., Fellow of All Souls', Oxford. A HISTORY OF THE
+ART OF WAR. Vol. II.: The Middle Ages, from the Fourth to the
+Fourteenth Century. Illustrated, _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Ottley (R.L.), D.D., Professor of Pastoral Theology at Oxford and
+Canon of Christ Church. See Handbooks of Theology and Leaders of
+Religion.
+
+Owen (Douglas), Barrister-at-Law, Secretary to the Alliance Marine and
+General Assurance Company. See Books on Business.
+
+Oxford (M.N.), of Guy's Hospital. A HANDBOOK OF NURSING. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Pakes (W.C.C.). THE SCIENCE OF HYGIENE. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 15s._
+
+Palmer (Frederick). WITH KUROKI IN MANCHURIA With many Illustrations.
+_Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Parker (Gilbert). A LOVER'S DIARY: SONGS IN SEQUENCE. _Fcap. 8vo. 5s._
+
+Parkinson (John). PARADISI IN SOLE PARADISUS TERRISTRIS, OR A GARDEN
+OF ALL SORTS OF PLEASANT FLOWERS. _Folio. £5, 5s. net._
+Also an Edition of 20 copies on Japanese vellum. _Ten Guineas net._
+
+Parmenter (John). HELIO-TROPES, OR NEW POSIES FOR SUNDIALS, 1625.
+Edited by PERCIVAL LANDON. _Quarto. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Parmentier (Prof. Léon). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Pascal. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Paston (George). SOCIAL CARICATURES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+_Imperial Quarto. £2, 12s. 6d. net._ See also Little Books on Art and
+Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Paterson (W.R.) (Benjamin Swift). LIFE'S QUESTIONINGS. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d. net._
+
+Patterson (A.H.). NOTES OF AN EAST COAST NATURALIST. Illustrated in
+Colour by F. SOUTHGATE. _Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Peacock (N.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Pearce (E.H.), M.A. ANNALS OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. With many
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Peary (R.E.), Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society.
+NORTHWARD OVER THE GREAT ICE. With over 800 Illustrations, _2 vols.
+Royal 8vo. 32s. net._
+
+Peel (Sidney), late Fellow of Trinity College, Oxford, and Secretary
+to the Royal Commission on the Licensing Laws. PRACTICAL LICENSING
+REFORM. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Peters (J.P.), D.D. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Petrie (W.M. Flinders), D.C.L., LL.D., Professor of Egyptology at
+University College. A HISTORY OF EGYPT, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE
+PRESENT DAY. Fully Illustrated. _In six volumes. Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+VOL. I. PREHISTORIC TIMES TO XVITH DYNASTY. _Fifth Edition._
+VOL. II. THE XVIITH AND XVIIITH DYNASTIES. _Fourth Edition._
+VOL. III. XIXTH TO XXXTH DYNASTIES.
+VOL. IV. THE EGYPT OF THE PTOLEMIES. J.P. MAHAFFY, Litt.D.
+VOL. V. ROMAN EGYPT. J.G. MILNE, M.A.
+VOL. VI. EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. STANLEY LANE-POOLE, M.A.
+RELIGION AND CONSCIENCE IN ANCIENT EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+SYRIA AND EGYPT, FROM THE TELL EL AMARNA TABLETS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+EGYPTIAN TALES. Illustrated by TRISTRAM ELLIS. _In Two Volumes. Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d. each._
+EGYPTIAN DECORATIVE ART. With 120 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Phillips (W.A.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). MY DEVON YEAR. With 38 Illustrations by J. LEY
+PETHYBRIDGE. _Second and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pienaar (Philip). WITH STEYN AND DE WET. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d._
+
+Plautus. THE CAPTIVI. Edited, with an Introduction, Textual Notes, and
+a Commentary, by W.M. LINDSAY, Fellow of Jesus College, Oxford. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Plowden-Wardlaw (J.T.), B.A., King's Coll. Camb. See School Examination
+Series.
+
+Pocock (Roger). A FRONTIERSMAN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Podmore (Frank). MODERN SPIRITUALISM. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+A History and a Criticism.
+
+Poer (J. Patrick Le). A MODERN LEGIONARY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Pollard (Alice). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Pollard (A.W.). OLD PICTURE BOOKS. With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo.
+7s. 6d. net._
+
+Pollard (Eliza F.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Pollock (David), M.I.N.A., Author of 'Modern Shipbuilding and the Men
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+
+Potter (M.C.), M.A., F.L.S. A TEXT-BOOK OF AGRICULTURAL BOTANY.
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+
+Potter Boy (An Old), WHEN I WAS A CHILD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pradeau (G.). A KEY TO THE TIME ALLUSIONS IN THE DIVINE COMEDY. With a
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+
+Prance (G.). See R. Wyon.
+
+Prescott (O.L.). ABOUT MUSIC, AND WHAT IT IS MADE OF. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
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+
+Price (L.L.), M.A., Fellow of Oriel College, Oxon. A HISTORY OF
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+
+Primrose (Deborah). A MODERN BŒOTIA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
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+
+Pugin and Rowlandson. THE MICROCOSM OF LONDON, OR LONDON IN MINIATURE.
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+
+'Q' (A.T. Quiller Couch). THE GOLDEN POMP. A Procession of English
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+
+Quevedo Villegas. See Miniature Library.
+
+G.R. and E.S. THE WOODHOUSE CORRESPONDENCE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rackham (R.B.), M.A. See Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Randolph (B.W.), D.D., Principal of the Theological College, Ely. See
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+
+Rannie (D.W.), M.A. A STUDENT'S HISTORY OF SCOTLAND. _Cr. 8vo. 3s.
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+
+Rashdall (Hastings), M.A., Fellow and Tutor of New College, Oxford.
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+
+Rawstorne (Lawrence, Esq.). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+A Real Paddy. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Reason (W.), M.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Redfern (W.B.), Author of 'Ancient Wood and Iron Work in Cambridge,'
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+Reynolds. See Little Galleries.
+
+Roberts (M.E.). See C.C. Channer.
+
+Robertson, (A.), D.D., Lord Bishop of Exeter. REGNUM DEI. The Bampton
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+
+Robertson (C. Grant), M.A., Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford,
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+Rochefoucauld (La), See Little Library.
+
+Rodwell (G.), B.A. NEW TESTAMENT GREEK. A Course for Beginners. With a
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+
+Roe (Fred). ANCIENT COFFERS AND CUPBOARDS: Their History and
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+
+Rogers (A.G.L.), M.A., Editor of the last volume of 'The History of
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+
+Romney. See Little Galleries.
+
+Roscoe (E.S.). ROBERT HARLEY, EARL OF OXFORD. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo.
+7s. 6d._ This is the only life of Harley in existence.
+See also The Little Guides.
+
+Rose (Edward). THE ROSE READER. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown
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+
+Rubie (A.E.). D.D., Head Master of College, Eltham. See Junior School
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+
+Russell (W. Clark). THE LIFE OF ADMIRAL LORD COLLINGWOOD. With
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+
+St. Anselm. See Library of Devotion.
+
+St. Augustine. See Library of Devotion.
+
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+Sales (St. Francis de). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Salmon (A.L.). A POPULAR GUIDE TO DEVON. _Medium 8vo. 6d. net._ See
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+
+Sargeaunt (J.), M.A. ANNALS OF WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. With numerous
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+Sathas (C.). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Schmitt (John). See Byzantine Texts.
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+Settle (J.H.). ANECDOTES OF SOLDIERS. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
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+
+Shakespeare (William).
+THE FOUR FOLIOS, 1623; 1632; 1664; 1685. Each _Four Guineas net_, or a
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+
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+Sharp (Mrs. E.A.). See Little Books on Art.
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+Shedlock (J.S.). THE PIANOFORTE SONATA: Its Origin and Development.
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+
+Shelley (Percy B.). ADONAIS; an Elegy on the death of John Keats,
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+
+Sherwell (Arthur). M.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+*Shipley (Mary E.). AN ENGLISH CHURCH HISTORY FOR CHILDREN. With a
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+I. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Sichel (Walter). DISRAELI: A Study in Personality and Ideas. With 3
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+
+Sime (J.). See Little Books on Art.
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+Simonson (G.A). FRANCESCO GUARDI. With 41 Plates. _Royal folio. £2. 2s.
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+
+Sketchley (R.E.D.). See Little Books on Art.
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+Skipton (H.P.K.). See Little Books on Art.
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+Sladen (Douglas). SICILY. With over 200 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 5s.
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+Small (Evan), M.A. THE EARTH. An Introduction to Physiography.
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+
+Smallwood, (M.O.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Smedley (F.E). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Smith (Adam). THE WEALTH OF NATIONS. Edited with an Introduction and
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+net._ See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Smith (Horace and James). See Little Library.
+
+Snell (P.J.). A BOOK OF EXMOOR. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sophocles. See Classical Translations.
+
+Sornet (L.A.), Modern Language Master at King Edward School, Birmingham.
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+
+South (Wilton E.), M.A. See Junior School Books.
+
+Southey (R.) ENGLISH SEAMEN. Edited, with an Introduction, by DAVID
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+
+Spence (C.H.), M.A., Clifton College. See School Examination Series.
+
+Spooner (W.A.), M.A., Warden of New College, Oxford. See Leaders of
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+
+Stanbridge (J.W.), B.D., late Canon of York, and sometime Fellow of
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+
+'Stancliffe.' GOLF DO'S AND DONT'S. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s._
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+Stedman (A.M.M.), M.A.
+INITIA LATINA: Easy Lessons on Elementary Accidence. _Seventh Edition.
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+EASY SELECTIONS FROM LIVY. Part I. The Kings of Rome. _18mo. Second
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+
+Steel (R. Elliott) M.A., F.C.S. THE WORLD OF SCIENCE. Including
+Chemistry, Heat, Light, Sound, Magnetism, Electricity, Botany,
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+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._ See also School Examination
+Series.
+
+Stephenson (C.), of the Technical College, Bradford, and Suddards (F.)
+of the Yorkshire College, Leeds. ORNAMENTAL DESIGN FOR WOVEN FABRICS.
+Illustrated. _Demy 8vo. Second Edition. 7s. 6d._
+
+Stephenson (J.), M.A. THE CHIEF TRUTHS OF THE CHRISTIAN FAITH _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Sterne (Laurence). See Little Library.
+
+Sterry (W.), M.A. ANNALS OF ETON COLLEGE. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Steuart (Katherine). BY ALLAN WATER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Stevenson (R.L.). THE LETTERS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON TO HIS FAMILY
+AND FRIENDS. Selected and Edited, with Notes and Introductions, by
+SIDNEY COLVIN. _Sixth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 12s._
+LIBRARY EDITION. _Demy 8vo. 2 vols. 25s. net._ A Colonial Edition is
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+VAILIMA LETTERS. With an Etched Portrait by WILLIAM STRANG. _Fourth
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+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE LIFE OF R.L. STEVENSON. See G. Balfour.
+
+Stevenson (M.I.). FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS. Being Letters written
+by Mrs. M.I. STEVENSON during 1887--8 to her sister, Miss JANE WHYTE
+BALFOUR. With an Introduction by GEORGE W. BALFOUR, M.D., LL.D.,
+F.R.S.S. _Crown 8vo. 6s. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Stoddart (Anna M.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Stone (E.D.), M.A., late Assistant Master at Eton. SELECTIONS FROM THE
+ODYSSEY. _Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Stone (S.J.). POEMS AND HYMNS. With a Memoir by F.G. ELLERTON, M.A.
+With Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Straker (F.), Assoc. of the Institute of Bankers, and Lecturer to the
+London Chamber of Commerce. See Books on Business.
+
+Streane (A.W.), D.D. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+Stroud (H.), D.Sc., M.A., Professor of Physics in the Durham College of
+Science, Newcastle-on-Tyne. See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Strutt (Joseph). THE SPORTS AND PASTIMES OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND.
+Illustrated by many engravings. Revised by J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A.
+_Quarto. 21s. net._
+
+Stuart (Capt. Donald), THE STRUGGLE FOR PERSIA, with a Map. _Crown
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+
+Starch (F.)., Manual Training Instructor to the Surrey County Council.
+SOLUTIONS TO THE CITY AND GUILDS QUESTIONS IN MANUAL INSTRUCTION
+DRAWING. _Imp. 4to. 2s._
+
+Suckling (Sir John). FRAGMENTA AUREA: a Collection of all the
+Incomparable Pieces, written by. And published by a friend to
+perpetuate his memory. Printed by his own copies. Printed for HUMPHREY
+MOSELEY, and are to be sold at his shop, at the sign of the Princes
+Arms in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1646.
+
+Suddards (F.). See C. Stephenson.
+
+Surtees (R.S.). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Swift (Jonathan). THE JOURNAL TO STELLA. Edited by G.A. AITKEN. _Cr.
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Symes (J.E.), M.A. THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+2s. 6d._
+
+Syrett (Netta). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Tacitus. AGRICOLA. With Introduction, Notes, Map, etc. By R.F. DAVIS,
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+GERMANIA. By the same Editor. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s._ See also Classical
+Translations.
+
+Tauler (J.). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Taunton (E.L.). A HISTORY OF THE JESUITS IN ENGLAND. With Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Taylor (A.E.). THE ELEMENTS OF METAPHYSICS. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Taylor (F.G.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+Taylor (I.A.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Taylor (T.M.), M.A., Fellow of Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge.
+A CONSTITUTIONAL AND POLITICAL HISTORY OF ROME. _Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Tennyson (Alfred, Lord). THE EARLY POEMS OF. Edited, with Notes and an
+Introduction, by J. CHURTON COLLINS, M.A. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
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+_Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Little Library.
+
+Terry (C.S.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Terton (Alice). LIGHTS AND SHADOWS IN A HOSPITAL. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Thackeray (W.M.). See Little Library.
+
+Theobald (F.W.), M.A. INSECT LIFE. Illustrated. _Second Ed. Revised.
+Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Thompson (A.H.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Tileston (Mary W.). DAILY STRENGTH FOR DAILY NEEDS. _Tenth Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._ Also editions in superior binding _5s. and
+6s._
+
+Tompkins (H.W.), F.R.H.S. See The Little Guides.
+
+Townley (Lady Susan). MY CHINESE NOTE-BOOK With 16 Illustrations and 2
+Maps. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Toynbee (Paget), M.A., D.Litt. DANTE STUDIES AND RESEARCHES. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._ See also Oxford Biographies.
+
+Trench (Herbert). DEIRDRE, WED: and Other Poems. _Crown 8vo. 5s._
+
+Trevelyan (G.M.), Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. ENGLAND UNDER
+THE STUARTS. With Maps and Plans. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Troutbeck (G.E.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Tuckwell (Gertrude). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Twining (Louisa). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Tyler (E.A.), B. A., F.C.S., Head of Chemical Department, Swansea
+Technical College. See Junior School Books.
+
+Tyrell-Gill (Frances). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Vaughan (Henry). See Little Library.
+
+Voegelin (A.). M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Wade (G.W.), D.D. OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY. With Maps. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Wagner (Richard). See A.L. Cleather.
+
+Wall (J.C.) DEVILS. Illustrated by the Author and from photographs.
+_Demy 8vo. is. 6d. net._ See also The Antiquary's Books.
+
+Walters (H.B.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Walton (Izaac) and Cotton (Charles). See Illustrated Pocket Library,
+Methuen's Universal Library, and Little Library.
+
+Warmelo (D.S. Van). ON COMMANDO. With Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Waterhouse (Mrs. Alfred). WITH THE SIMPLE-HEARTED: Little Homilies to
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+Library.
+
+Weatherhead (T.C.), M.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN HORACE. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+See also Junior Examination Series.
+
+Webb (W.T.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Webber (P.C). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Wells (Sidney H.). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Wells (J.). M.A., Fellow and Tutor of Wadham College. OXFORD AND OXFORD
+LIFE. By Members of the University. _Third Edition Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+A SHORT HISTORY OF ROME. _Fifth Edition._ With 3 Maps. _Cr. 8vo. 3s.
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+
+Wetmore (Helen C). THE LAST OF THE GREAT SCOUTS (' Buffalo Bill').
+With Illustrations. _Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+Whibley (C). See Henley and Whibley.
+
+Whibley (L.), M.A., Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge. GREEK
+OLIGARCHIES: THEIR ORGANISATION AND CHARACTER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Whitaker (G.H.), M.A. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+White (Gilbert). THE NATURAL HISTORY OF SELBORNE. Edited by L.C. MIALL,
+F.R.S., assisted by W. WARDE FOWLER, M.A. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also
+Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Whitfield (E.E.) See Commercial Series.
+
+Whitehead (A. W.). GASPARD DE COLIGNY. With many Illustrations. _Demy
+8vo._ 12s. _6d. net._
+
+Whitley (Miss). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Whyte (A.G.). B.Sc, Editor of _Electrical Investments._ See Books on
+Business.
+
+Wilberforce (Wilfrid) See Little Books on Art.
+
+Wilde (Oscar). DE PROFUNDIS. _Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5s. net._
+Also a Limited Edition on Japanese Vellum. _Demy 8vo. £.2, 2s.
+net;_and a Limited Edition on hand-made paper. _Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Wilkins (W.H.), B. A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Wilkinson (J. Frome). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Williamson (W.). THE BRITISH GARDENER. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+Williamson (W.), B.A. EASY DICTATION AND SPELLING. _Third Edition._
+_Fcap. 8vo. 1s._ See also Junior Examination Series and Junior School
+Books.
+
+Wilmot-Buxton (K.M.). MAKERS OF EUROPE. _Crown 8vo. Third Edition, 3s.
+6d._ A Text-book of European History for Middle Forms.
+THE ANCIENT WORLD. With Maps and Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. is. 6d._
+See also The Beginner's Books.
+
+Wilson (Bishop). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Willson (Beckles). LORD STRATHCONA: the Story of his Life. Illustrated.
+_Demy_ _8vo. 7s. 6d._ A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Wilson (A.J.), Editor of the _Investor's Review_, City Editor of the
+_Daily Chronicle._ See Books on Business.
+
+Wilson (H.A.). See Books en Business.
+
+Wilton (Richard), M.A. LYRA PASTORALIS: Songs of Nature, Church, and
+Home. _Pott 8vo. 2s. 6d._ A volume of devotional poems.
+
+Winbolt (S.E.), M.A., Assistant Master in Christ's Hospital. EXERCISES
+IN LATIN ACCIDENCE. _Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._ An elementary book adapted
+for Lower Forms to accompany the Shorter Latin Primer.
+LATIN HEXAMETER VERSE: An Aid to Composition. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. KEY,
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+
+Windle (B.C.A.), D.Sc., F.R.S. See Antiquary's Books and The Little
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+
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+LYRA INNOCENTIUM. Edited by Walter Lock, D.D.
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+ELIA, AND THE LAST ESSAYS OF ELIA. By Charles Lamb. Edited by E.V.
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+price is in existence. It is their ambition to place the best books of
+all nations, and particularly of the Anglo-Saxon race, within the reach
+of every reader. All the great masters of Poetry, Drama, Fiction,
+History, Biography, and Philosophy will be represented. Mr. Sidney Lee
+will be the General Editor of the Library, and he will contribute a Note
+to each book.
+
+The characteristics of METHUEN'S UNIVERSAL LIBRARY are five:--
+
+1. SOUNDNESS OF TEXT. A pure and unabridged text is the primary object
+of the series, and the books will be carefully reprinted under the
+direction of competent scholars from the best editions. In a series
+intended for popular use not less than for students, adherence to the
+old spelling would in many cases leave the matter unintelligible to
+ordinary readers, and, as the appeal of a classic is universal, the
+spelling has in general been modernised.
+
+2. COMPLETENESS. Where it seems advisable, the complete works of such
+masters as Milton, Bacon, Ben Jonson and Sir Thomas Browne will be
+given. These will be issued in separate volumes, so that the reader who
+does not desire all the works of an author will have the opportunity of
+acquiring a single masterpiece.
+
+3. CHEAPNESS. The books will be well printed on good paper at a price
+which on the whole is without parallel in the history of publishing.
+Each volume will contain from 100 to 350 pages, and will be issued in
+paper covers, Crown 8vo, at Sixpence net. In a few cases a long book
+will be issued as a Double Volume at One Shilling net.
+
+4. CLEARNESS OF TYPE. The type will be a very legible one.
+
+5. SIMPLICITY. There will be no editorial matter except a short
+biographical and bibliographical note by Mr. Sidney Lee at the beginning
+of each volume.
+
+The volumes may also be obtained in cloth at One Shilling net, or in the
+case of a Double Volume at One and Sixpence net. Thus TOM JONES may be
+bought in a Double paper volume at One Shilling net, or in one cloth
+volume at 1s. 6d. net.
+
+The Library will be issued at regular intervals after the publication of
+the first six books, all of which will be published together. Due notice
+will be given of succeeding issues. The orders of publication will be
+arranged to give as much variety of subject as possible, and the volume
+composing the complete works of an author will be issued at convenient
+intervals.
+
+These are the early Books, all of which are in the Press.
+
+THE WORKS OF WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE. In 10 volumes.
+
+VOL. I.--The Tempest; The Two Gentlemen of Verona; The Merry Wives of
+Windsor; Measure for Measure; The Comedy of Errors.
+
+VOL. II.--Much Ado About Nothing; Love's Labour's Lost; A Midsummer
+Nights' Dream; The Merchant of Venice; As You Like It.
+
+VOL. III.--The Taming of the Shrew; All's Well that Ends Well; Twelfth
+Night; The Winter's Tale.
+
+THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. By John Bunyan.
+
+THE NOVELS OF JANE AUSTEN. In 5 volumes. VOL. I.--Sense and
+Sensibility.
+
+THE ENGLISH WORKS OF FRANCIS BACON, LORD VERULAM. Vol. I.--Essays and
+Counsels and the New Atlantis.
+
+THE POEMS AND PLAYS OF OLIVER GOLDSMITH.
+
+ON THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. By Thomas à Kempis.
+
+THE WORKS OF BEN JOHNSON. In about 12 volumes. VOL. I.--The Case is
+Altered; Every Man in His Humour; Every Man out of His Humour.
+
+THE PROSE WORKS OF JOHN MILTON.
+  VOL. I.--Eikonoklastes and The Tenure of Kings and Magistrates.
+
+SELECT WORKS OF EDMUND BURKE.
+  Vol. I.--Reflections on the French Revolution
+  Vol. II.--Speeches on America.
+
+THE WORKS OF HENRY FIELDING.
+  Vol. I.--Tom Jones. (Double Volume.)
+  Vol. II.--Amelia. (Double Volume.)
+
+THE POEMS OF THOMAS CHATTERTON. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Miscellaneous Poems.
+  Vol. II.--The Rowley Poems.
+
+THE MEDITATIONS OF MARCUS AURELIUS. Translated by R. Graves.
+
+THE HISTORY OF THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. By Edward
+Gibbon. In 7 volumes. The Notes have been revised by J.B. Bury, Litt.D.
+
+THE PLAYS OF CHRISTOPHER MARLOWE.
+  Vol. I.--Tamburlane the Great; The Tragical History of Doctor Faustus.
+  Vol. II.--The Jew of Malta: Edward the Second; The Massacre at Paris;
+  The Tragedy of Dido.
+
+THE NATURAL HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF SELBORNE. By Gilbert White.
+
+THE COMPLETE ANGLER. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--By Izaak Walton.
+  Vol. II.--Part 2, by Cotton, and Part 3 by Venables.
+
+THE POEMS OF PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY. In 4 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Alastor; The Daemon of the World; The Revolt of Islam, etc.
+
+THE WORKS OF SIR THOMAS BROWNE. In 6 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Religio Medici and Urn Burial.
+
+THE POEMS OF JOHN MILTON. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Paradise Lost.
+  Vol. II.--Miscellaneous Poems and Paradise Regained.
+
+HUMPHREY CLINKER. By T.G. Smollett.
+
+SELECT WORKS OF SIR THOMAS MORE.
+  Vol. I.--Utopia and Poems.
+
+THE ANALOGY OF RELIGION, NATURAL AND REVEALED. By Joseph Butler, D.D.
+
+ON HUMAN UNDERSTANDING. By John Locke. In 3 volumes.
+
+THE POEMS OF JOHN KEATS. In 2 volumes.
+
+THE DIVINE COMEDY OF DANTE. The Italian Text edited by Paget Toynbee,
+M.A., D.Litt. (A Double Volume.)
+
+
+Westminster Commentaries, The
+
+General Editor, WALTER LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College,
+
+Dean Ireland's Professor of Exegesis in the University of Oxford.
+
+The object of each commentary is primarily exegetical, to interpret the
+author's meaning to the present generation. The editors will not deal,
+except very subordinately, with questions of textual criticism or
+philology; but, taking the English text in the Revised Version as their
+basis, they will try to combine a hearty acceptance of critical
+principles with loyalty to the Catholic Faith.
+
+THE BOOK OF GENESIS. Edited with Introduction and Notes by S.R. Driver,
+D.D. _Fourth Edition Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE BOOK OF JOB. Edited by E.C.S. Gibson. D.D. _Second Edition. Demy
+8vo. 6s._
+
+THE ACTS OF THE APOSTLES. Edited by R.B. Rackham, M.A. _Demy 8vo. Second
+and Cheaper Edition. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE FIRST EPISTLE OF PAUL THE APOSTLE TO THE CORINTHIANS. Edited by H.L.
+Goudge, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+THE EPISTLE OF ST. JAMES. Edited with Introduction and Notes by R.J.
+Knowling, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+
+
+
+PART II.--FICTION
+
+Marie Corelli's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS. _Twenty-Fifth Edition._
+
+VENDETTA. _Twenty-First Edition._
+
+THELMA. _Thirty-Second Edition._
+
+ARDATH: THE STORY OF A DEAD SELF. _Fifteenth Edition._
+
+THE SOUL OF LILITH. _Twelfth Edition._
+
+WORMWOOD. _Fourteenth Edition._
+
+BARABBAS: A DREAM OF THE WORLD'S TRAGEDY. _Fortieth Edition._
+'The tender reverence of the treatment and the imaginative beauty of the
+writing have reconciled us to the daring of the conception. This "Dream
+of the World's Tragedy" is a lofty and not inadequate paraphrase of the
+supreme climax of the inspired narrative.'--_Dublin Review._
+
+THE SORROWS OF SATAN. _Forty-Eighth Edition._
+'A very powerful piece of work.... The conception is magnificent, and is
+likely to win an abiding place within the memory of man.... The author
+has immense command of language, and a limitless audacity.... This
+interesting and remarkable romance will live long after much of the
+ephemeral literature of the day is forgotten.... A literary phenomenon
+... novel, and even sublime.'--W.T. STEAD in the _Review of Reviews._
+
+THE MASTER CHRISTIAN. _[165th Thousand._
+'It cannot be denied that "The Master Christian" is a powerful book;
+that it is one likely to raise uncomfortable questions in all but the
+most self-satisfied readers, and that it strikes at the root of the
+failure of the Churches--the decay of faith--in a manner which shows the
+inevitable disaster heaping up ... The good Cardinal Bonpré is a
+beautiful figure, fit to stand beside the good Bishop in "Les
+Misérables." It is a book with a serious purpose expressed with absolute
+unconventionality and passion ... And this is to say it is a book worth
+reading.'--_Examiner._
+
+TEMPORAL POWER: A STUDY IN SUPREMACY. _[150th Thousand._
+'It is impossible to read such a work as "Temporal Power" without
+becoming convinced that the story is intended to convey certain
+criticisms on the ways of the world and certain suggestions for the
+betterment of humanity.... If the chief intention of the book was to
+hold the mirror up to shams, injustice, dishonesty, cruelty, and neglect
+of conscience, nothing but praise can be given to that
+intention.'--_Morning Post._
+
+GOD'S GOOD MAN: A SIMPLE LOVE STORY. _Sixth Edition_,
+
+
+Anthony Hope's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE GOD IN THE CAR. _Tenth Edition._
+'A very remarkable book, deserving of critical analysis impossible
+within our limit; brilliant, but not superficial; well considered, but
+not elaborated; constructed with the proverbial art that conceals, but
+yet allows itself to be enjoyed by readers to whom fine literary method
+is a keen pleasure.--_The World._
+
+A CHANGE OF AIR, _Sixth Edition._
+'A graceful, vivacious comedy, true to human nature. The characters are
+traced with a masterly hand.'--_Times._
+
+A MAN OF MARK. _Fifth Edition._
+'Of all Mr. Hope's books, "A Man of Mark" is the one which best compares
+with "The Prisoner of Zenda." '--_National Observer._
+
+THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO. _Fifth Edition._
+'It is a perfectly enchanting story of love and chivalry, and pure
+romance. The Count is the most constant, desperate, and modest and
+tender of lovers, a peerless gentleman, an intrepid fighter, a faithful
+friend, and a magnanimous foe.'--_Guardian._
+
+PHROSO. Illustrated by H.R. MILLAR. _Sixth Edition._
+'The tale is thoroughly fresh, quick with vitality, stirring the
+blood.'--_St. James's Gazette._
+
+SIMON DALE. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition._
+'There is searching analysis of human nature, with a most ingeniously
+constructed plot. Mr. Hope has drawn the contrasts of his women with
+marvellous subtlety and delicacy.'--_Times_.
+
+THE KING'S MIRROR. _Fourth Edition._
+'In elegance, delicacy, and tact it ranks with the best of his novels,
+while in the wide range of its portraiture and the subtlety of its
+analysis it surpasses all his earlier ventures.'--_Spectator._
+
+QUISANTE. _Fourth Edition._
+'The book is notable for a very high literary quality, and an impress of
+power and mastery on every page.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.
+
+
+W.W. Jacobs' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. each._
+
+MANY CARGOES. _Twenty-Seventh Edition._
+
+SEA URCHINS. _Eleventh Edition._
+
+A MASTER OF CRAFT. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition._
+'Can be unreservedly recommended to all who have not lost their appetite
+for wholesome laughter.'--_Spectator._
+'The best humorous book published for many a day.'--_Black and White._
+
+LIGHT FREIGHTS. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+'His wit and humour are perfectly irresistible. Mr. Jacobs writes of
+skippers, and mates, and seamen, and his crew are the jolliest lot that
+ever sailed.'--_Daily News._
+'Laughter in every page.'--_Daily Mail_.
+
+
+Lucas Malet's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+COLONEL ENDERBY' WIFE. _Third Edition._
+
+A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION. _New Edition._
+
+LITTLE PETER. _Second Edition. 3s. 6d._
+
+THE WAGES OF SIN. _Fourteenth Edition._
+
+THE CARISSIMA. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE GATELESS BARRIER. _Fourth Edition._
+'In "The Gateless Barrier" it is at once evident that, whilst Lucas
+Malet has preserved her birthright of originality, the artistry, the
+actual writing, is above even the high level of the books that were born
+before.'--_Westminster Gazette._
+
+THE HISTORY OF SIR RICHARD CALMADY. _Seventh Edition._ A Limited
+Edition in Two Volumes. _Crown 8vo. 12s._
+'A picture finely and amply conceived. In the strength and insight in
+which the story has been conceived, in the wealth of fancy and
+reflection bestowed upon its execution, and in the moving sincerity of
+its pathos throughout, "Sir Richard Calmady" must rank as the great
+novel of a great writer.'--_Literature._
+'The ripest fruit of Lucas Malet's genius. A picture of maternal love
+by turns tender and terrible.'--_Spectator._
+'A remarkably fine book, with a noble motive and a sound
+conclusion.'--_Pilot_.
+
+
+Gilbert Parker's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+PIERRE AND HIS PEOPLE. _Fifth Edition._
+'Stories happily conceived and finely executed. There is strength and
+genius in Mr. Parker's style.'--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+MRS. FALCHION. _Fifth Edition._
+'A splendid study of character.'--_Athenæum._
+
+THE TRANSLATION OF A SAVAGE. _Second Edition._
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD. Illustrated. _Eighth Edition._
+'A rousing and dramatic tale. A book like this is a joy
+inexpressible.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC: The Story of a Lost Napoleon. _Fifth
+Edition._
+'Here we find romance--real, breathing, living romance. The character of
+Valmond is drawn unerringly.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+AN ADVENTURER OF THE NORTH: The Last Adventures of 'Pretty Pierre.'
+_Third Edition._
+'The present book is full of fine and moving stories of the great
+North.'--_Glasgow Herald._
+
+THE SEATS OF THE MIGHTY. Illustrated. _Thirteenth Edition._
+'Mr. Parker has produced a really fine historical novel.'--_Athenæum._
+'A great book.'--_Black and White._
+
+THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG: a Romance of Two Kingdoms. Illustrated.
+_Fourth Edition._
+'Nothing more vigorous or more human has come from Mr. Gilbert Parker
+than this novel.'--_Literature._
+
+THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. _Second Edition. 3s. 6d._
+'Unforced pathos, and a deeper knowledge of human nature than he has
+displayed before.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+
+Arthur Morrison's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+TALES OF MEAN STREETS. _Sixth Edition._
+'A great book. The author's method is amazingly effective, and produces
+a thrilling sense of reality. The writer lays upon us a master hand. The
+book is simply appalling and irresistible in its interest. It is
+humorous also; without humour it would not make the mark it is certain
+to make.'--_World._
+
+A CHILD OF THE JAGO. _Fourth Edition._
+'The book is a masterpiece.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+TO LONDON TOWN. _Second Edition._
+'This is the new Mr. Arthur Morrison, gracious and tender, sympathetic
+and human.'--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+CUNNING MURRELL.
+'Admirable ... Delightful humorous relief ... a most artistic and
+satisfactory achievement.'--_Spectator._
+
+THE HOLE IN THE WALL. _Third Edition._
+'A masterpiece of artistic realism. It has a finality of touch that only
+a master may command.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+'An absolute masterpiece, which any novelist might be proud to
+claim.'--_Graphic_.
+'"The Hole in the Wall" is a masterly piece of work. His characters
+are drawn with amazing skill. Extraordinary power.'--_Daily
+Telegraph._
+
+
+Eden Phillpotts' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+LYING PROPHETS.
+
+CHILDREN OF THE MIST. _Fifth Edition._
+
+THE HUMAN BOY. With a Frontispiece. _Fourth Edition._
+'Mr. Phillpotts knows exactly what school-boys do, and can lay bare
+their inmost thoughts; likewise he shows an all-pervading sense of
+humour.'--_Academy._
+
+SONS OF THE MORNING. _Second Edition._
+'A book of strange power and fascination.'--_Morning Post._
+
+THE STRIKING HOURS. _Second Edition._
+'Tragedy and comedy, pathos and humour, are blended to a nicety in this
+volume.'--_World._
+'The whole book is redolent of a fresher and ampler air than breathes
+in the circumscribed life of great towns.'--_Spectator._
+
+THE RIVER. _Third Edition._
+'"The River" places Mr. Phillpotts in the front rank of living
+novelists.'--_Punch._
+'Since "Lorna Doone" we have had nothing so picturesque as this new
+romance.'--_Birmingham Gazette._
+'Mr. Phillpotts's new book is a masterpiece which brings him
+indisputably into the front rank of English novelists.'--_Pall Mall
+Gazette._
+'This great romance of the River Dart. The finest book Mr. Eden
+Phillpotts has written.'--_Morning Post._
+
+THE AMERICAN PRISONER. _Third Edition._
+
+THE SECRET WOMAN. _Fourth Edition._
+
+
+S. Baring-Gould's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+ARMINELL. _Fifth Edition._
+
+URITH. _Fifth Edition._
+
+IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA. _Seventh Edition._
+
+CHEAP JACK ZITA. _Fourth Edition._
+
+MARGERY OF QUETHER. _Third Edition._
+
+THE QUEEN OF LOVE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+JACQUETTA. _Third Edition._
+
+KITTY ALONE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+NOÉMI. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE BROOM-SQUIRE. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+
+DARTMOOR IDYLLS.
+
+THE PENNYCOMEQUICKS. _Third Edition._
+
+GUAVAS THE TINNER. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+BLADYS. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+DOMITIA. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+PABO THE PRIEST.
+
+WINIFRED. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+THE FROBISHERS.
+
+ROYAL GEORGIE. Illustrated.
+
+MISS QUILLET. Illustrated.
+
+LITTLE TU'PENNY. _A New Edition. 6d._
+
+CHRIS OF ALL SORTS.
+
+IN DEWISLAND. _Second Edition._
+
+
+Robert Barr's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS. _Third Edition._
+'A book which has abundantly satisfied us by its capital
+humour.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+THE MUTABLE MANY. _Second Edition._
+'There is much insight in it, and much excellent humour.'--_Daily
+Chronicle._
+
+THE VICTORS.
+
+THE COUNTESS TEKLA. _Third Edition._
+'Of these mediæval romances, which are now gaining ground, "The Countess
+Tekla" is the very best we have seen.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+THE LADY ELECTRA. _Second Edition._
+
+THE TEMPESTUOUS PETTICOAT. _Second Edition._
+
+
+E. Maria Albanesi's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+SUSANNAH AND ONE OTHER. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE BLUNDER OF AN INNOCENT. _Second Edition._
+
+CAPRICIOUS CAROLINE. _Second Edition._
+
+LOVE AND LOUISA. _Second Edition._
+
+PETER, A PARASITE.
+
+
+B.M. Croker's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+ANGEL. _Fourth Edition._
+
+PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. _Sixth Edit._
+
+THE OLD CANTONMENT.
+
+A STATE SECRET. _Third Edition._
+
+JOHANNA. _Second Edition._
+
+THE HAPPY VALLEY. _Second Edition._
+
+
+J.H. Findlater's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE GREEN GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+
+Mary Findlater's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+A NARROW WAY. _Third Edition._
+
+OVER THE HILLS.
+
+THE ROSE OF JOY. _Second Edition._
+
+
+Robert Hichens' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE PROPHET OF BERKELEY SQUARE. _Second Edition_
+
+TONGUES OF CONSCIENCE. _Second Edition._
+
+FELIX. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE WOMAN WITH THE FAN. _Fifth Edition._
+
+BYEWAYS. _3s. 6d._
+
+THE GARDEN OF ALLAH _Seventh Edition._
+
+Henry James's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE SOFT SIDE. _Second Edition._
+
+THE BETTER SORT.
+
+THE AMBASSADORS. _Second Edition._
+
+THE GOLDEN BOWL.
+
+
+Mary E. Mann's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+OLIVIA'S SUMMER. _Second Edition._
+
+A LOST ESTATE. _A New Edition._
+
+THE PARISH OF HILBY. _A New Edition._
+
+*THE PARISH NURSE.
+
+GRAN'MA'S JANE.
+
+MRS. PETER HOWARD.
+
+A WINTER'S TALE. _A New Edition._
+
+ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS. _A New Edition._
+
+THERE WAS ONCE A PRINCE. Illustrated. _3s. 6d._
+
+WHEN ARNOLD COMES HOME. Illustrated. _3s. 6d._
+
+
+W. Pett Ridge's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+LOST PROPERTY. _Second Edition._
+
+ERB. _Second Edition._
+
+A SON OF THE STATE. _3s. 6d._
+
+A BREAKER OF LAWS. _3s. 6d._
+
+MRS. GALER'S BUSINESS.
+
+SECRETARY TO BAYNE, M.P. _3s. 6d._
+
+
+Adeline Sergeant's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE MASTER OF BEECHWOOD.
+
+BARBARA'S MONEY. _Second Edition._
+
+ANTHEA'S WAY.
+
+THE YELLOW DIAMOND. _Second Edition._
+
+UNDER SUSPICION.
+
+THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME.
+
+THE ENTHUSIAST.
+
+ACCUSED AND ACCUSER. _Second Edition._
+
+THE PROGRESS OF RACHEL.
+
+THE MYSTERY OF THE MOAT.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Albanesi (E. Maria). See page 35.
+
+Anstey (F.), Author of 'Vice Versa.' A BAYARD FROM BENGAL. Illustrated
+by BERNARD PARTRIDGE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Bacheller (Irving), Author of 'Eben Holden.' DARREL OF THE BLESSED ISLES
+_Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Bagot (Richard). A ROMAN MYSTERY. _Third Edition. Crown 8 vo. 6s._
+
+Balfour (Andrew). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Baring-Gould (S.). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Barlow (Jane). THE LAND OF THE SHAMROCK. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also
+Shilling Novels.
+
+Barr (Robert). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Begbie (Harold). THE ADVENTURES OF SIR JOHN SPARROW. _Crown. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Belloc (Hilaire). EMMANUEL BURDEN, MERCHANT, with 36 illustrations by
+G.K. CHESTERTON. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Benson (E.F.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Benson (Margaret). SUBJECT TO VANITY. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Besant (Sir Walter). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Bowles (C. Stewart). A STRETCH OFF THE LAND. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Bullock (Shan. F.). THE SQUIREEN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ THE RED LEAGUERS.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Burton (J. Bloundelle). THE YEAR ONE: A Page of the French Revolution.
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE FATE OF VALSEC. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A BRANDED NAME. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Capes (Bernard), Author of 'The Lake of Wine.' THE EXTRAORDINARY
+CONFESSIONS OF DIANA PLEASE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Chesney (Weatherby). THE BAPTST RING. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE TRAGEDY OF THE GREAT EMERALD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE MYSTERY OF A BUNGALOW. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Clifford (Hugh). A FREE LANCE OF TO-DAY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Clifford (Mrs. W.K.). See also Shilling Novels and Books for Boys and
+Girls.
+
+Cobb (Thomas). A CHANGE OF FACE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Cobban (J. Maclaren). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Corelli (Marie). See page 32.
+
+Cotes (Mrs. Everard). See Sara Jeannette Duncan.
+
+Cotterell (Constance). THE VIRGIN AND THE SCALES. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Crane (Stephen) and Barr (Robert). THE O'RUDDY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Crockett (S.R.). Author of 'The Raiders,' etc. LOCHINVAR. Illustrated.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE STANDARD BEARER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Croker (B.M.). See page 35.
+
+Dawson (A.J.). DANIEL WHYTE. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Doyle (A. Conan), Author of 'Sherlock Holmes,' 'The White Company,'
+etc. ROUND THE RED LAMP. _Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Duncan (Sara Jeannette) (Mrs. Everard Cotes). THOSE DELIGHTFUL
+AMERICANS. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE POOL IN THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A VOYAGE OF CONSOLATION. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Findlater (J.H.). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Findlater (Mary). See page 35.
+
+Fitzpatrick (K.) THE WEANS AT ROWALLAN. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fitzstephen (Gerald). MORE KIN THAN KIND. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fletcher (J.S.). LUCIAN THE DREAMER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+DAVID MARCH. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Francis (M.E.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Fraser (Mrs. Hugh). Author of 'The Stolen Emperor.' THE SLAKING OF THE
+SWORD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gallon (Tom), Author of 'Kiddy.' RICKERBY'S FOLLY. _Crown 8 vo. 6s._
+
+Gerard (Dorothea), Author of 'Lady Baby.' THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+HOLY MATRIMONY. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+MADE OF MONEY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE BRIDGE OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gerard (Emily). THE HERONS' TOWER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gissing (George), Author of 'Demos,' 'In the Year of Jubilee,' etc.
+THE TOWN TRAVELLER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo 6s._
+THE CROWN OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Glanville (Ernest). THE INCA'S TREASURE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Gleig (Charles). BUNTER'S CRUISE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Goss (C.F.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Herbertson (Agnes G.). PATIENCE DEAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hichens (Robert). See page 35.
+
+Hobbes (John Oliver), Author of 'Robert Orange.' THE SERIOUS WOOING.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hope (Anthony). See page 32.
+
+Hough (Emerson). THE MISSISSIPPI BUBBLE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hyne (C.J. Cutcliffe), Author of 'Captain Kettle.' MR. HORROCKS,
+PURSER. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Jacobs (W.W.). See page 33.
+
+James (Henry). See page 36.
+
+Janson (Gustaf). ABRAHAM'S SACRIFICE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Keays (H.A. Mitchell). HE THAT EATHETH BREAD WITH ME. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Lawless (Hon. Emily). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Lawson (Harry), Author of 'When the Billy Boils.' CHILDREN OF THE
+BUSH. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Levett-Yeats (S.). ORRAIN. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Linden (Annie). A WOMAN OF SENTIMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Linton (E. Lynn). THE TRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON, Christian and
+Communist. _Twelfth Edition. Medium 8vo. 6d._
+
+Long (J. Luther), Co-Author of 'The Darling of the Gods.' MADAME
+BUTTERFLY. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+SIXTY JANE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Lyall (Edna). DERRICK VAUGHAN, NOVELIST. _42nd Thousand. Cr. 8vo. 3s
+6d._
+
+M'Carthy (Justin H.). Author of 'If I were King.' THE LADY OF LOYALTY
+HOUSE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE DRYAD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mackie (Pauline Bradford). THE VOICE IN THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Macnaughtan (S.). THE FORTUNE OF CHRISTINA MACNAB. _Third Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Malet (Lucas). See page 33.
+
+Mann (Mrs. M.E.). See page 36.
+
+Marriott (Charles), Author of 'The Column.' GENEVRA. _Second Edition.
+Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Marsh (Richard). THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+A METAMORPHOSIS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+GARNERED. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A DUEL. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mason (A.E.W), Author of 'The Courtship of Morrice Buckler,'
+'Miranda of the Balcony,' etc. CLEMENTINA. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo.
+Second Edition. 6s._
+
+Mathers (Helen), Author of 'Comin' thro' the Rye.' HONEY. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Meade (L.T.). DRIFT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ RESURGAM. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Meredith (Ellis). HEART OF MY HEART. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+'Miss Molly' (The Author of). THE GREAT RECONCILER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mitford (Bertram). THE SIGN OF THE SPIDER. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+IN THE WHIRL OF THE RISING. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE RED DERELICT. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Montresor (F.F.), Author of 'Into the Highways and Hedges.' THE
+ALIEN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Morrison (Arthur). See page 34.
+
+Nesbit (E.). (Mrs. E. Bland). THE RED HOUSE. Illustrated. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE LITERARY SENSE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Norris (W.E.). THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY. Illustrated. _Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE EMBARRASSING ORPHAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+NIGEL'S VOCATION. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+LORD LEONARD THE LUCKLESS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+BARHAM OF BELTANA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Ollivant (Alfred). OWD BOB, THE GREY DOG OF KENMUIR. _Eighth Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oppenheim (E. Phillips). MASTER OF MEN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oxenham (John), Author of 'Barbe of Grand Bayou.' A WEAVER OF WEBS.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE GATE OF THE DESERT. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pain (Barry). THREE FANTASIES. _Crown 8vo. 1s._ LINDLEY KAYS. _Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Parker (Gilbert). See page 33.
+
+Pemberton (Max). THE FOOTSTEPS OF A THRONE. Illustrated. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+I CROWN THEE KING. With Illustrations by Frank Dadd and A. Forrestier.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Penny (Mrs. F.E.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). See page 34, and Shilling Novels.
+
+Pickthall (Marmaduke). SAID THE FISHERMAN. _Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+*BRENDLE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+*Pryce (Richard). WINIFRED MOUNT, _A New Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+'Q,' Author of 'Dead Man's Rock.' THE WHITE WOLF. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Queux (W. le). THE HUNCHBACK OF WESTMINSTER. _Third Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+THE CLOSED BOOK. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW. Illustrated. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rhys (Grace). THE WOOING OF SHEILA. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE PRINCE OF LISNOVER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rhys (Grace) and Another. THE DIVERTED VILLAGE. With Illustrations by
+DOROTHY GWYN JEFFREYS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Ridge (W. Pett). See page 36.
+
+Ritchie (Mrs. David G.). THE TRUTHFUL LIAR. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Roberts (C.G.D.). THE HEART OF THE ANCIENT WOOD. _Crown 8vo 3s. 6d._
+
+*Robertson (Francee Forbes). THE TAMING OF THE BRUTE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Russell (W. Clark). MY DANISH SWEETHEART. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+ABANDONED. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+HIS ISLAND PRINCESS. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sergeant (Adeline). See page 36.
+
+Shannon (W.F.). THE MESS DECK. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+JIM TWELVES. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Sonnichsen (Albert). DEEP SEA VAGABONDS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Stringer (Arthur). THE SILVER POPPY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sutherland (Duchess of). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Swan (Annie). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Tanqueray (Mrs. B.M.). THE ROYAL QUAKER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Thompson (Vance). SPINNERS OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Waineman (Paul). BY A FINNISH LAKE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE SONG OF THE FOREST. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Watson (H.B.Marriott). ALARUMS AND EXCURSIONS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+CAPTAIN FORTUNE. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Wells (H.G.) THE SEA LADY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Weyman (Stanley), Author of 'A Gentleman of France.' UNDER THE RED
+ROBE With Illustrations by R.C. WOODVILLE. _Eighteenth Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+White (Stewart E.). Author of 'The Blazed Trail.' CONJUROR'S HOUSE.
+A Romance of the Free Trail. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+White (Percy). THE SYSTEM. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Williamson (Mrs. C.N.), Author of 'The Barnstormers.' PAPA. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE ADVENTURE OF PRINCESS SYLVIA. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE WOMAN WHO DARED. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE SEA COULD TELL. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE CASTLE OF THE SHADOWS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Williamson (C.N. and A.M.). THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR: Being the
+Romance of a Motor Car. Illustrated. _Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE PRINCESS PASSES. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+
+Methuen's Shilling Novels
+
+_Cloth, 1s. net._
+
+Encouraged by the great and steady sale of their Sixpenny Novels,
+Messrs. Methuen have determined to issue a new series of fiction at a
+low price under the title of 'METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS.' These books
+are well printed and well bound in _cloth_, and the excellence of their
+quality may be gauged from the names of those authors who contribute the
+early volumes of the series.
+
+Messrs. Methuen would point out that the books are as good and as long
+as a six shilling novel, that they are bound in cloth and not in paper,
+and that their price is One Shilling _net_, They feel sure that the
+public will appreciate such good and cheap literature, and the books can
+be seen at all good booksellers. The first volumes are--
+
+Adeline Sergeant. A GREAT LADY.
+
+Richard Marsh. MARVELS AND MYSTERIES.
+
+Tom Gallon. RICKERBY'S FOLLY.
+
+H.B. Marriott-Watson. THE SKIRTS OF HAPPY CHANCE.
+
+Bullock (Shan F.). THE BARRYS. THE CHARMERS.
+
+Gissing (George). THE CROWN OF LIFE.
+
+Francis (M.E.). MISS ERIN.
+
+Sutherland (Duchess of). ONE HOUR AND THE NEXT.
+
+Burton (J. Bloundelle). ACROSS THE SALT SEAS.
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.) THE PRODIGALS.
+
+Balfour (Andrew). VENGEANCE IS MINE.
+
+Barr (Robert), Author of 'The Countess Tekla. THE VICTORS.
+
+Penny (Mrs. F.A.). A MIXED MARRIAGE.
+
+Hamilton (Lord Ernest). MARY HAMILTON.
+
+Glanville (Ernest). THE LOST REGIMENT.
+
+Benson (E.F.). Author of 'Dodo.' THE CAPSINA.
+
+Goss (C.F.). THE REDEMPTION OF DAVID CORSON.
+
+Findlater (J.H.). Author of 'The Green Graves of Balgowrie.' A DAUGHTER
+OF STRIFE.
+
+Cobban, (J.M.) THE KING OF ANDAMAN.
+
+Clifford (Mrs. W.K.). A WOMAN ALONE.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). FANCY FREE.
+
+
+Books for Boys and Girls
+
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+THE GETTING WELL OF DOROTHY. By Mrs. W.K. Clifford. Illustrated by
+Gordon-Browne. _Second Edition._
+
+THE ICELANDER'S SWORD. By S. Baring-Gould.
+
+ONLY A GUARD-ROOM DOG. By Edith E. Cuthell.
+
+THE DOCTOR OF THE JULIET. By Harry Collingwood.
+
+LITTLE PETER. By Lucas Malet. _Second Edition._
+
+MASTER ROCKAFELLAR'S VOYAGE. By W. Clark Russell.
+
+THE SECRET OF MADAME DE MONLUC. By the Author of "Mdlle. Mori."
+
+SYD BELTON: Or, the Boy who would not go to Sea. By G. Manville Fenn.
+
+THE RED GRANGE. By Mrs. Molesworth.
+
+A GIRL OF THE PEOPLE. By L.T. Meade.
+
+HEPSY GIPSY. By L.T. Meade. _2s. 6d._
+
+THE HONOURABLE MISS. By L.T. Meade.
+
+
+The Novels of Alexandre Dumas
+
+_Price 6d. Double Volume, 1s._
+
+THE THREE MUSKETEERS. With a long Introduction by Andrew Lang. Double
+volume.
+
+THE PRINCE OF THIEVES. _Second Edition._
+
+ROBIN HOOD. A Sequel to the above.
+
+THE CORSICAN BROTHERS.
+
+GEORGES.
+
+CROP-EARED JACQUOT; JANE; Etc.
+
+TWENTY YEARS AFTER. Double volume.
+
+AMAURY.
+
+THE CASTLE OF EPPSTEIN.
+
+THE SNOWBALL, AND SULTANETTA.
+
+CECILE; OR, THE WEDDING GOWN.
+
+ACTÉ.
+
+THE BLACK TULIP.
+
+THE VICOMTE DE BRAGELONNE.
+Part I. Louis de la Vallière. Double Volume.
+Part II. The Man in the Iron Mask. Double Volume.
+
+THE CONVICT'S SON.
+
+THE WOLF-LEADER.
+
+NANON; OR, THE WOMEN'S WAR. Double volume.
+
+PAULINE; MURAT; AND PASCAL BRUNO.
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN PAMPHILE.
+
+FERNANDE.
+
+GABRIEL LAMBERT.
+
+THE REMINISCENCES OF ANTONY.
+
+CATHERINE BLUM.
+
+THE CHEVALIER D'HARMENTAL.
+
+SYLVANDIRE.
+
+THE FENCING MASTER.
+
+CONSCIENCE.
+
+THE REGENT'S DAUGHTER. A Sequel to Chevalier d'Harmental.
+
+
+Illustrated Edition.
+
+THE THREE MUSKETEERS. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s. 6d._
+
+THE PRINCE OF THIEVES. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams. _2s._
+
+ROBIN HOOD THE OUTLAW. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s._
+
+THE CORSICAN BROTHERS. Illustrated in Colour by A.M. M'Lellan. _1s. 6d._
+
+FERNANDE. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr.
+
+THE BLACK TULIP. Illustrated in Colour by A. Orr.
+
+GEORGES. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr. _2s._
+
+TWENTY YEARS AFTER. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams. _3s._
+
+AMAURY. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne. _2s._
+
+THE SNOWBALL, and SULTANETTA. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s._
+
+THE VICOMTE DE BRAGELONNE. Part I. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams.
+
+CROP-EARED JACQUOT; JANE; Etc. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne.
+
+THE CASTLE OF EPPSTEIN. Illustrated in Colour by Stewart Orr.
+
+ACTÉ. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne.
+
+CECILE; OR, THE WEDDING GOWN. Illustrated in Colour by D. Murray Smith.
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN PAMPHILE. Illustrated in Colour by Frank
+Adams.
+
+THE WOLF-LEADER. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _1s. 6d._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by 
+Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN ***
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diff --git a/17613-0.zip b/17613-0.zip
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by 
+Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Land of the Black Mountain
+       The Adventures of Two Englishmen in  Montenegro
+
+Author: Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+Release Date: January 27, 2006 [EBook #17613]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by University of Michigan Digital Library,
+Nikola Smolenski, Sankar Viswanathan,
+and Online Distributed Proofreading Team at Distributed
+Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                              THE LAND OF
+                          THE BLACK MOUNTAIN
+
+
+
+                   THE ADVENTURES OF TWO ENGLISHMEN
+                             IN MONTENEGRO
+
+
+
+                                  BY
+
+                    REGINALD WYON AND GERALD PRANCE
+
+
+                     WITH FIFTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+
+
+
+                "SOME GLIMPSING AND NO PERFECT SIGHT"
+
+                                                 CHAUCER
+
+
+
+                         NEW AND CHEAPER ISSUE
+
+
+                             METHUEN & CO.
+                         36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
+                                LONDON
+
+
+
+_First Published March 1903
+New and Cheaper Issue 1905_
+
+
+[Illustration: H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO]
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATED BY KIND PERMISSION
+
+TO
+
+H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS
+OF MONTENEGRO
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+Montenegro's geographical position--Character of the people--Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms--Likeness to the Homeric
+Greeks--The women--Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of
+privacy, police--Goodness of the Prince--The national
+costume--Religion--Hatred of Austria--Russia's friendship
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to the
+present Prince--Fruits of the last campaign--Education--The
+military system--Legal administration--Crime--Government--The
+educated classes
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+The journey to Montenegro--Arrival in Cattaro--Beauty of the
+Bocche, and the drive to the frontier--First impressions of
+Montenegro--Njegusi--The national troubadours--Arrival in
+Cetinje
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The
+barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our
+departure for Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The
+market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside
+hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Moraca--The
+Vizier bridge--Old war-marks--First and last impressions of
+Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in
+Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The
+prison and its inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The
+modern town--The market and the armed buyers--The
+Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin methods of doing
+business
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and business--His part in Montenegrin
+history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The Death
+Dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The
+hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuz--A typical country inn and a
+meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baco, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated
+nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The
+priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+Stephan our servant--Virpazar--The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass--Antivari and Prstan--The beauty of the bay--We are
+delayed by contrary winds--We are rowed to Dulcigno--We
+make the acquaintance of Marko Ivankovic--A story concerning
+him--We shoot together--An episode on a lake--Vaccination--The
+Turkish inhabitants
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer
+much from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass
+the Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious
+troubles--The town and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding,
+Yes and No--We return to Rijeka by steamer--The beauties
+of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's return, when
+the fatted calf is _not_ killed
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+Preparations for our tour in the Brda--We start--Where it is not good
+to be giddy--A trying ride--Our inn--Nocturnal episodes--The journey
+continued--Pleasant surroundings--The Montenegrin _quart
+d'heure_--Arrival in Kolasin--We meet the Governor--Visiting--The Band
+of Good Hope--The Crown Prince's birthday--We are ashamed
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+Montenegro's oldest building--The ride to the Moraca Monastery--A
+perilous bridge and ascent--The Abbot's tale--We inspect the
+Monastery--The health of the King is drunk--The relative merits of
+Boers and Montenegrins--The Abbot makes us presents--We visit a
+peasant's house and a Homeric feast--A feu-de-joie--Departure from
+Kolasin--We are mistaken for doctors again--Raskrsnica
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+A typical mountain hut--Costume of the north-eastern borderers--Supper
+and a song--We go out hunting, and cause excitement--The Feast of
+Honour--We ride to Andrijevica--Andrijevica and our inn--The
+Voivoda--We go to church--Turkish visitors--Alarums
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika--The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story--We arrive at
+Velika--The men of Velika--The m�nu--Border jurisdiction--A
+shooting-match--The Kom--Pleasant evenings--A young
+philosopher--Sunset
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+We leave Andrijevica--Our additional escort--The arrival at our
+camping-place--In an enemy's country--The story of one Gjolic--Our
+slumbers are disturbed--Sunrise on the Alps--We disappoint our
+escort--"Albanian or Montenegrin?"--A reconnaissance--The Forest of
+Vucipotok--The forbidden land--narrow escape--We arrive at
+Rikavac--Rain damps our ardour--Nocturnal visitors
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+More memorial stones--We get wet again--Unwilling hosts--A fall--The
+Franciscan of Zatrijebac--The ravine of the Zem--Methods of settling
+tribal differences--A change of diet and more pleasant evenings--A
+fatalist--Sunday morning
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Keco's story--The laws
+of vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
+Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
+birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
+costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
+coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
+hermit--A miracle--Niksic--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
+palace--We are disappointed at Niksic
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
+of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
+subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
+of infancy--A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
+a memorable drive--A fervent prayer
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
+consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
+appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical
+lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of
+tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and
+apostrophe
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO        _Frontispiece_
+
+THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO
+
+THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO
+
+NJEGUSI
+
+THE GUSLAR
+
+MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY
+
+THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG
+
+THE PRINCE'S PALACE
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF CETINJE
+
+THE FEMALE PRISONERS
+
+THE PRISONERS DANCING
+
+THE VIZIER BRIDGE
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA
+
+THE RIBNICA
+
+THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN
+
+VOIVODA MARKO
+
+SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL
+
+SPUZ
+
+ACHMET UIKO
+
+SOKOL BACO
+
+THE POP OF VRANJINA
+
+AN ALBANIAN GIRL
+
+VIRPAZAR
+
+ANTIVARI OR BAR
+
+MARKO IVANKOVIC
+
+THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA
+
+VACCINATION
+
+BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO
+
+THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI
+
+KOLASIN--THE MARKET-PLACE
+
+THE KOLO
+
+A TYPICAL ROAD
+
+THE MORACA MONASTERY
+
+OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA
+
+ANDRIJEVICA
+
+CHURCH PARADE
+
+VELIKA
+
+MORINA
+
+THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA
+
+THE VASOJEYICKI KOM
+
+ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA
+
+THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS
+
+THE PATH THROUGH THE VUCIPOTOK
+
+AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAC
+
+MONTENEGRIN WOMEN
+
+THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG
+
+THE UPPER MONASTERY
+
+THE CHURCH, NIKSIC
+
+THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE
+
+A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE
+
+AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+"What a terrible country!" said a lady tourist to me once in Cetinje,
+"nothing but barren grey rocks; and what poverty! I declare I shan't
+breathe freely till I am out of it again."
+
+This is a common opinion of travellers to Montenegro, and one that is
+spread by them all over Europe. And yet how unjust! A fairly large
+number of tourists take the drive from beautiful little Cattaro up
+that wild mountain-side and through the barren Katunska to Cetinje. A
+few hours later they return the way they came, convinced that they
+have seen Montenegro. A few, very few, prolong the tour to Podgorica
+and Niksic, returning with a still firmer conviction that they have
+penetrated into the very fastnesses of that wonderful little land.
+These chosen few have at least seen that all is not bare and rocky,
+that there are rich green valleys, rushing mountain torrents, and
+pleasant streams.
+
+If they are very observant they will likewise notice that the men of
+these parts are more wildly clad and fiercer-looking than their more
+polished brethren of the "residence." Rifles are carried more
+universally the nearer lies Albania, and in Podgorica itself they will
+have seen--particularly if chance has brought them there on a
+market-day--crowds of savage-looking hill-men, clad in the white serge
+costume of Albania, standing over their handful of field produce with
+loaded rifles; stern men from the borders with seamed faces; sturdy
+plains-men tanned to a mahogany tint by the almost tropical sun of the
+valleys; shepherds in great sheepskins, be it ever so hot; and haughty
+Turks, hodjas, and veiled women, all in a crowded confusion, haggling
+and bartering. Quaint wooden carts drawn by patient oxen, their huge
+clumsy wheels creaking horribly; gypsies with thunderous voices acting
+as town criers; madmen shrieking horribly; blind troubadours droning
+out songs of heroes on their guslars. If the tourist has witnessed and
+understood all this, then he has seen something of Montenegro. But
+beyond those lofty mountains which rise on either side of the carriage
+road, live these same people in their rude villages. There are towns
+far away, unconnected by any road, to reach which the traveller must
+journey wearily by horse and on foot, over boulder-strewn paths, by
+the side of roaring torrents, through the cool depths of primeval
+forests, and over the snow-clad spurs of rugged mountains. There he
+will find men accustomed to face death at any moment, who delight in
+giving hospitality, and who talk of other lands as "the world
+outside." These are the Montenegrins to whom we owe some of the most
+pleasant reminiscences of our lives.
+
+Our book does not describe the whole country, as unfortunately we were
+unable to visit the northern districts and the lofty Durmitor, but we
+certainly saw the more interesting half, namely, the whole of the
+Albanian frontier.
+
+Amongst those hardy borderers we made many warm friends, but it would
+be invidious to mention names amongst so many. We came to the country
+with a single introduction, to Dr. Stefanelli, the companion of many
+of our journeys, and we left at the conclusion of six months with a
+host of friends. Still to two we wish humbly to express our gratitude
+for many acts of, at the time, unknown courtesy, namely, H.R.H. Prince
+Nicolas, and the Metropolitan of Montenegro, Mitrofanban. As a slight
+token of our thanks to, and admiration of, that true father of his
+people, Prince Nicolas, we respectfully dedicate this book to the
+soldier-poet and prince of the Land of the Black Mountain.
+
+Since we finished the story of our travels, I have had the honour of
+speaking long with Prince Nicolas and of seeing him on many occasions;
+for during our first travels in the land we were always strangely
+unlucky in this respect. I then learnt how our progress through
+Montenegro had been watched over, and contingencies provided for,
+which we had taken as a matter of course.
+
+Some, alas! of our friends are now no more. The Governor of Podgorica
+was shot down in broad daylight a short while ago whilst taking his
+midday promenade in which we so often shared. Others, too, have fallen
+on the borders. Friends are easily lost in Montenegro, where a charge
+of powder and a bullet settle differences.
+
+Disagreeable episodes happened to us--they happen everywhere--but
+these we have rightly or wrongly omitted. The good that we experienced
+certainly outweighed the bad, and that shall be our reason for so
+doing.
+
+And again, throughout the book we have given our _first_ impressions,
+much of it was written during our actual progress through the land. It
+may be that our feelings will thus be more interesting than a
+cut-and-dried treatise of the land and its inhabitants.
+
+In conclusion, it will not be amiss to add an explanation of the Serb
+names which appear throughout the book in the original spelling. The
+names have often an unpronounceable appearance, and look harsh and
+forbidding. This is far from the case, for the Serb language is
+full-toned and musical.
+
+In common with the Slav languages it has a sixth vowel, viz.
+"r"--hence such words as "Srb" (Serb), "trg" (place or square), and
+"Trst" (Triest). It is only necessary to roll the "r" to overcome this
+seeming anomaly of a collection of consonants. The language is spoken
+exactly as it is written, as for instance Italian, but the consonants
+s, c, and z vary according to their accents.
+
+"s" is our sharp s; but with inverted circumflex
+
+"s" it becomes "ssh," as in "show."
+
+"c" is pronounced "tz": thus Cetinje is spoken Tzetinje; Podgorica as
+Podgoritza.
+
+"c" and "c" are accentuated "tsch": as Petrovic, Petrovitsch; Moraca,
+Moratcha.
+
+"z" is soft, as "s" in "rose."
+
+"z" is sounded like the French "j" in "journal."
+
+"dz" is sounded like the "j" in "James."
+
+"nj" is sounded like the "gn" in French "campagne": Tzetign�
+(Cetinje), and so on.
+
+We are fully aware of many shortcomings, and for these we crave
+pardon, but if we benefit little Montenegro by the publication of our
+work, then we shall not have written it in vain.
+
+England has once before proved the friend of Montenegro; the fighting
+instincts of that brave race, their love of freedom, and the
+possession of their most glorious of histories appeal to all of us.
+
+I fear there are troublous times ahead for that gallant little nation,
+perhaps another bitter disappointment is in store for them, when they
+will need a friend.
+
+Times have changed now, personal valour avails but little against
+overwhelming armies and modern artillery.
+
+"We little nations must beseech the Almighty to give us peace," said
+Prince Nicolas to me not so very long ago.
+
+May it be His will!
+
+R.W.
+
+VIENNA, _February, 1903_
+
+
+
+
+THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+Montenegro's geographical position--Character of the people--Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms--Likeness to the Homeric
+Greeks--The women--Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of
+privacy, police--Goodness of the Prince--The national
+costume--Religion--Hatred of Austria--Russia's friendship.
+
+
+Roughly Montenegro is diamond-shaped, with its points towards north
+and south, east and west. To the north-east it is bounded by the
+Sandjak of Novipazar, held by Turkey and Austria jointly, and dividing
+it from its parent country, the kingdom of Servia. To the south-east
+lies Albania, while Austria again borders Montenegro in Bosnia and the
+Hercegovina in the north-west and in Dalmatia to the south-west.
+Dalmatia and a narrow strip of the Adria complete the circuit, so
+Austria practically surrounds Montenegro on three sides.
+
+The land may be said to possess three distinct belts of vegetation,
+each of an entirely different character. It is divided from north to
+south by the River Zeta, and the low-lying plains are fertile and
+rich, and this district also comprises the sea coast. To the west is
+the Katunska or "Shepherds' huts," those barren and rocky mountains of
+old Montenegro, from which the country derives its name; while to the
+east lies the Brda, mountains vying with Switzerland in beauty, rich
+grazing grounds and densely-wooded hills abounding with game, and the
+streams well stocked with fish.
+
+The plains are the granaries of Montenegro, unfortunately too limited
+in area to give an abundance, but there is a mine of wealth in the
+Brda, when that part shall be opened up by connecting roads. The vast
+primeval forests and mineral products will be an important source of
+income in the times to come. Even at the present day the district
+constitutes the chief source of revenue from the export of cattle,
+sheep, and horses which flourish on the magnificent mountain
+pasturages. Montenegrin wool, greatly famed, comes too from the Brda.
+
+It is chiefly in the Katunska, the cradle of the Montenegrin nation,
+that the most interesting geological formations are to be found, and
+in these formations lay its former strength. The most prominent
+features of the Karst region are imperfect valleys which have no
+outlet. As a consequence of this, the water cannot escape by an
+overground bed, so it forces itself through the porous surface to
+reappear in a lower valley, undermining the subsoil, which in time
+collapses, and forms the oases of this otherwise barren land. The
+rain washes down the little earth that there is on the hillside, the
+chemical action of the limestone oxidises the same, and the so-called
+"terra rossa" is formed in these depressions, sufficient to give
+nourishment to the trees and bushes which grow there. The frugal
+peasant cultivates these tiny patches of earth and derives enough
+crops to subsist on, the goats and cattle living on the bushes and
+smaller trees.
+
+In olden times the little nation found barely enough substance for
+themselves, consisting as they did of but a few thousand, but an
+invading army starved. It was in truth a land "where a small army is
+beaten, a large one dies of hunger."
+
+The character of the people has been formed by their surroundings.
+Hardy and frugal, capable of subsisting on the smallest amount of
+nourishment, lithe and active, and open and fearless as their native
+mountains.
+
+Their food consists of a piece of maize bread at daybreak, and they
+eat nothing again till sunset, when bread and a little milk form their
+evening meal. Meat is eaten but rarely, and then they feast. The
+athletic feat of crossing rock-strewn surfaces, bounding from rock to
+rock at a great pace, rivalling their goats in sure-footedness at dizzy
+and precipitous heights, has lent their gait that perfect grace of
+motion which characterises the mountaineer, and in particular the
+Montenegrin. The danger in which they have perpetually lived,
+accustomed to look death in the face at any moment, has stamped upon
+them that open and fearless look which most forcibly strikes the
+stranger.
+
+Their blood is of the purest and noblest in the Balkans, for they are
+largely descended from the noble families of the old Servian Empire
+who fled to the Katunska after the bloody field of Kossovo, which
+destroyed the might of the Serbs for ever. It is probably from these
+ancestors that their noble bearing and perfect manners, in even
+strange and unaccustomed surroundings, are derived. Their notion of
+honour is of the highest, and thieving and robbery are practically
+unknown.
+
+Prince Nicolas, like King Alfred, trusts his subjects in this matter
+of thieving implicitly. Should a man drop a case of banknotes on the
+road, the law says that the finder shall pick it up and place it on
+the nearest stone, so that the loser has but to retrace his steps,
+glancing at the wayside stones. This law is invariably followed.
+
+The Montenegrins are still an armed nation, and the following proverbs
+illustrate their love of weapons. One says, "A man without arms is a
+man without freedom"; the other says, "Thou mayest as well take away
+my brother as my rifle."
+
+Their patriotism and unswerving loyalty to the reigning Prince have
+ever been their most brilliant virtues.
+
+The famous traveller Kohl has likened the Montenegrins to the ancient
+Greeks of Homeric times, and the comparison holds good to this day.
+
+"Love of freedom and pride of weapons, simplicity of life--remember
+the love of mutton and wine, as described by Homer--hospitality, the
+superiority of man over woman, all these features, together with the
+fact that the heroes are themselves the singers of their deeds," says
+Kohl, "are to be found in the Montenegrins, as well as in the Greeks
+of Homer."
+
+Woman takes a very inferior position in Montenegro. She is respected
+in a sense, and her position has improved greatly in recent times,
+chiefly owing to the example set by the Prince himself. At the
+official reception held on New Year's Day, when the humblest peasant
+can go to Cetinje and kiss the Prince's hand, Prince Nicolas places
+his wife to his right, and every man must first kiss her hand. Thus in
+the highest classes woman takes very nearly the same place as in
+civilised lands, but as the social scale descends, so does the
+position of woman.
+
+In the lowest classes she is still not much more than a beast of
+burden, given to man to ease his lot. She carries heavy burdens to
+market, while her lord rides; she may not walk at his side, but a few
+paces to the rear; neither may she sit at table in the presence of
+strange men. The kiss with which men salute each other is not allowed
+to her, and she must kiss the hand only of the man. Likewise, she must
+rise to her feet when men pass by, and in some districts, should she
+meet a man on the way, she must stop and remain standing meekly at the
+side of the path; also, she must leave the room backwards. Neither of
+these last-mentioned customs is universal, but are to be found largely
+in the Brda.
+
+The men are handsome and often of immense stature. Giants of 6 feet 8
+inches are by no means uncommon; in fact, a few such men will be seen
+in every town. The average height is quite 5 feet 10 or 11 inches,
+broad-shouldered and deep-chested, with pleasant faces.
+
+The women are often strikingly beautiful, especially when young, but
+hard work ages them very quickly; in the upper classes, however,
+middle-aged and elderly women of regal appearance can often be seen.
+It is the manners of such women and universally of the men which comes
+as the greatest surprise, when it is remembered that none or very few
+have ever seen anything of the outside world.
+
+The faults of the nation are inordinate vanity in their appearance,
+causing them to impoverish themselves for the sake of gorgeous
+clothes, and gambling. They gamble to an excessive degree, heaping
+debt after debt upon their heads. Both these vices have caused an
+active legislation. Gold embroidery has been abolished on the uniforms
+of the army officers, and Prince Danilo has already declared that on
+coming to the throne he will abolish the national costume altogether,
+_i.e._ amongst the officials and the upper classes.
+
+They love money and will do a good deal to get it, but when they have
+money, they spend it in a reckless and freehanded manner. Thus they
+will overcharge a stranger in an exorbitant fashion, thinking, in
+their simple minds, that travellers are possessed of unlimited means.
+Tourists are largely to blame for this, and pay, without audible
+comment, what is asked. If a strong remonstrance is made, the charge
+will be reduced in most cases. The dawn of civilisation has brought
+the love of money, the frugal Montenegrins are now awakening to what
+money will procure them, and they take as much as they can get without
+thought, and without swindling intentions. Perhaps the lack of banks
+or any institute where money can be saved up, may account for this.
+Merchants buy houses or increase their stock. The peasant, as often as
+not, gambles it away or buys fine clothes, a few thrifty ones
+purchasing an extra cow.
+
+No doubt the influence of civilisation, and in particular the
+long-delayed prosperity of the land which is now slowly raising its
+head, will alter this.
+
+They very rarely quarrel, never brawl, and are hardly ever to be seen
+in a state of intoxication.
+
+On the other hand, they are merry, convivial, boon companions, and are
+never happier than when dancing, singing their war songs and love
+romances, or listening to the "guslar"--the national troubadour.
+
+The characteristic bravery is still manifested in reckless deeds of
+"derring do" on the Albanian borders. Shepherds will deliberately
+drive their flocks across the frontier, thereby courting instant
+death. Many instances have been given illustrating their love of
+danger.
+
+Privacy of dwellings is non-existent. Men walk in and out, seating
+themselves in the room and talking. In the evening the men will
+congregate, stand and squat in a large ring, and solemnly discuss the
+events of the day, or in towns will walk majestically up and down the
+main street swinging the graceful "struka" or shawl from their
+shoulders. Likewise, the drinking-houses are used as common
+meeting-places, and there is no need to order refreshment.
+
+Marriages, baptisms, deaths are occasions for great feasting, when the
+national sheep is killed and roasted whole, and wine and spirits
+consumed in appalling quantities, without however affecting the heads
+of these iron people.
+
+To keep order, there is a ridiculously small force of police or
+gendarmes, and their object is more to preserve the peace in places
+where different races meet, animated with fanatical hatred of each
+other. But during the whole time of our sojourn in Montenegro, we
+never witnessed a single case of men arrested for petty offences, or
+for breaking the peace by common brawling or drunkenness. The only
+cases that we did see were connected with the vendetta, which still
+flourishes. In the course of our travels in the land we have
+sufficiently illustrated this lamentable feature that no further
+comments are necessary.
+
+Prince Nicolas is said to know the name of every one of his subjects,
+and will accost him by it. This is doubtless a great exaggeration, and
+probably means that he knows personally all those who fought under him
+in the last war, when the nation was considerably smaller than it is
+now.
+
+No man is too humble but that the Prince will stop and speak to him,
+and ask him how the world is using him. The man rarely goes
+empty-handed away. In these latter days the Prince is not so
+open-handed as formerly, neither does he make so free with his
+presence, but still it is no difficult thing for any of his subjects
+to obtain an audience. He will stop a man at haphazard on the road
+and examine his weapons, and woe betide him if his revolver is carried
+empty. Every chamber but one must be loaded.
+
+A characteristic instance of the Prince's observancy was once given in
+Cetinje. An incongruous habit is creeping into the country of carrying
+a huge cotton umbrella in the great heat. The Prince met a man
+carrying one open, and promptly broke it over his head, saying--
+
+"Art thou a hero, to carry a woman's sunshade?"
+
+For even to-day the youngest man will maintain that he is a "hero" by
+right of ancestry, and has no doubt of his capability to act up to the
+traditions of his country in the event of war.
+
+The national costume is worn by all, and in the richer classes is very
+gorgeous. The combination of colour is in exquisite taste. There are
+many variations, but a description of the gala uniform will suffice.
+
+The cap, or "kapa," is the same for Prince and peasant. It is red with
+a deep black border, which only leaves a small crown of the foundation
+colour. On this crown in one corner are the letters "H.I." (in Latin
+characters "N.I." or Nicolas 1st) and five semicircles in gold. The
+explanations as to the meanings are slightly different. Both say the
+black border is symbolic of mourning for the losses at Kossovo, while
+the five lines are explained either as signifying the five centuries
+which have elapsed since that terrible battle or as symbolic of a
+rainbow--the sign of hope that one day the glories of the old Serb
+empire will be restored. The red crown signifies "the field of blood,"
+as the Hebrews have it. Furthermore, the different insignia of rank
+are worn on the rim of the cap, from the double eagle and lion of the
+senator in brass, the different combinations of crossed swords of the
+officer, to the simple star of lead of the corporal.
+
+The costume consists of a "dzamadan," a red waistcoat, embroidered
+with gold or black silk--the former on gala occasions--over which the
+"gunj" is worn, a long, white or very pale blue coat, cut so that the
+breast is left open and free. Another sleeveless jacket is worn,
+again, over the gunj, called the "jelek," and is a mass of heavy gold
+and silk embroidery, quite stiff in fact, and a marvel of beautiful
+tracing and patterns.
+
+Round the waist are three separate belts, the first a common belt,
+then the leather "kolan" for the support of the weapons, and over all
+a silk sash, the "pas," sometimes twenty yards long, wound round and
+round many times and of brilliant colours.
+
+Below, knee-breeches of dark blue material and voluminous proportions,
+called "gace," bordered round the pockets with gold-work, and high,
+patent-leather boots. This latter is merely modern dandyism; the still
+invariably worn "dokoljenice" are white gaiters, fastened at the back
+with hooks and eyes, which reach to the "opanki"--shoes made of a flat
+leather sole, bound over with a thick network of whipcord.
+
+The ordinary costume of the better classes for everyday wear (and this
+is the uniform of the officers) is a short red jacket, embroidered
+like the waistcoat in black silk, with sleeves carried either hussar
+fashion, hanging behind, or over the sleeves of the waistcoat.
+
+Then there are green gunj and even dark blue. The peasant wears
+usually a coarse white serge gunj for every day and an ordinary shirt.
+
+In the mountain districts and borderlands of the Brda the Albanian
+costume of tight-fitting white serge trousers, bordered with black
+braid, is largely worn.
+
+The women wear a somewhat modified array of colour. The girls wear the
+kapa, without the letters or rainbow; the married women a lace
+mantilla over their shoulders. The hair is worn, in the case of the
+married women, in a heavy crown-like plait.
+
+A white, slightly embroidered bodice, silver girdle, and silk skirt,
+over which is worn a similar open coat to the gunj. And again over
+this comes the "jecerma," a jacket of red, blue, or violet velvet,
+according to the age of the woman.
+
+The effect in both men and women is tasteful and picturesque in the
+extreme.
+
+The struka, or shawl, is greatly worn by men, and the sweeping,
+swinging effect is most pleasing. It is a shawl of sufficient length
+that when folded to a narrow width and worn over the shoulders the
+tassels just touch the ground.
+
+Some of the poorest peasants wear huge sheepskin jackets, even in hot
+weather.
+
+At the head of the Greek Orthodox Church, which is the religion of the
+land, is an Archbishop, or "Vladika." Hardly more than half a century
+ago, the Vladika was Prince and Bishop in one. To-day the Vladika is
+absolute spiritual head of the Church in Montenegro, and only in
+matters pertaining to divorce are his rulings reversible by the
+Prince.
+
+The hatred of the Roman Catholic religion is most marked. The term
+"Catholic" is an epithet of opprobrium. Hence the hatred of Albania,
+which on the borders is entirely Roman Catholic. The hated Catholics
+also, in the shape of Austria, hem in Montenegro on three sides, and
+this factor, added to the unfriendly part that Austria played at the
+Berlin Congress, may account for the growing animosity which is now
+slowly making itself manifest against her in Montenegro. Turkey is no
+longer feared; in fact, friendly relations are cultivated and steadily
+increasing; but against Austria very different feelings are held.
+Austria holds the Bocche de Cattaro, which the Montenegrins took
+possession of in the Napoleonic wars, commands Antivari, and has edged
+herself in between the kingdom of Servia and Montenegro in the
+Sandjak of Novipazar. The inhabitants of the Bocche and a large part
+of the population of Bosnia and the Hercegovina look to the Prince of
+Montenegro as their lawful ruler.
+
+It is the oft and open stated dream of Prince Nicolas to see the great
+Serb-speaking nations re-united, and much as Russia has helped and is
+fostering this wish, Austria relentlessly checkmates every move in
+this direction. Austria is even striving to gain influence in Albania
+through the means of the Roman Catholic priests, who are said to be
+largely in her pay.
+
+Thus Austria, surrounding Montenegro as she does at present, and
+enlisting the sympathies of the Albanians, can command every inlet to
+that brave little country. A "Schwab," as every German-speaking
+foreigner is termed, is consequently viewed with no friendly eyes;
+while the Russian is welcomed openly as a friend.
+
+Russia, however, can never hope to buy the allegiance of the
+Montenegrins; for while appreciating friendly assistance, the faintest
+attempt to obtain undue influence of power would be sharply resented.
+
+Montenegro will yield her absolute independence to none.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to
+the present Prince--Fruits of the last campaign--Education--The
+military system--Legal administration--Crime--Government--The educated
+classes.
+
+
+The district which corresponds most nearly to Montenegro of the
+present day comes first into notice when the Romans attacked Queen
+Teuta and drove her back beyond the modern Podgorica in the third
+century B.C. From this time onwards Roman influence made
+itself felt strongly in the Pr�valitana, an outlying province of
+Illyria, and the city of Dioclea--whose ruins still exist in the
+neighbourhood of Podgorica, and which was to play such an important
+part in the germ state of Crnagora, or the "Land of the Black
+Mountain"--rose into being. Diocletian, the famous divider of the
+Roman Empire, was born there, and the city became the capital of the
+district to which it gave the name. The triumvirs placed the
+border-line of the Eastern and Western divisions at Skodra, or
+Scutari, as the Europeans call it. Under the early empire, the land
+was perpetually changing from East to West, but when the Western
+division fell under the weight of barbarian invasions Uin 476 A.D.,
+it was finally incorporated in the East. This was a momentous
+decision, for the manners and habits of the people still remain tinged
+with Eastern life, and in the ninth century it secured their adhesion
+to the Eastern Church, which influences their policy to the present
+time. The principality of Dioclea, or Zeta, as it soon became called,
+was one of the confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius in 622
+A.D., to act as a buffer state against the inroads of the Avars. Each
+state was ruled by a Zupan or Prince who owed allegiance to the Grand
+Zupan, the head of the heptarchy. But the confederation was very
+loose, the rival chieftains fighting amongst one another for the
+supremacy, for the Serb race has ever been noted for its lack of unity
+and corresponding love of freedom. The famous Bulgarian Czar Samuel,
+_circa_ 980, who had overrun the rest of the Serb states, and made for
+himself a great empire, found that he was powerless to conquer the
+warlike John Vladimir of the Zeta; and again, nearly a century later,
+in 1050, we find the Zeta Zupa so powerful that their Prince assumes
+the title of King of Servia, and is confirmed in his right by Gregory
+VII., the famous Pope Hildebrand. Dissensions then broke out again,
+and for the next hundred years the land owned the sway of the Greek
+Empire. The two most celebrated Serb kings--Stefan Nemanja (1143) and
+Stefan Dusan (1336-1356)--both ascended to the head of the
+confederation from the principality of the Zeta. The latter raised the
+Serb kingdom to its zenith, and formed an ephemeral empire which bears
+many a resemblance to that of Napoleon. Montenegro had all this time
+been steadily growing, and on the accession of Dusan to Servia, the
+district of the Zeta fell to the Balsic, who proved themselves to be a
+strong and competent race of rulers. They increased their territories
+to such an extent that, at the time of the battle of Kossovo, they
+could boast to ruling over all the land from Ragusa to the mouth of
+the Drin, including the present West Montenegro and Southern
+Hercegovina, with Skodra as the capital. After the overthrow of the
+great Servian Empire on the field of Kossovo, Montenegro became
+entirely independent of outside suzerainty, and from the year 1389 to
+the present day, is the only Balkan state which has successfully
+defied the invasions of the Turk. The Balsic engaged themselves in
+several fruitless wars with Venice, by which they lost Skodra, so
+that, when their line died out and the succession fell to Stefan
+Crnoievic (the name Crnoievic, Black Prince, is supposed by some to be
+the origin of the name Crnagora or Black Mountain), a new capital must
+perforce be built, at the northern end of the lake, called Zabljak.
+Stefan Crnoievic allied himself with Skenderbeg, the King of Albania,
+and within twelve years is said to have fought over fifty battles
+with the Turks who, in their impotent rage, poured army after army
+into the land, but entirely failed to break the courage of this brave
+little people. His people gave him the title of Voivoda of the Zeta,
+but the limits of his principality seem to have been very undefined.
+The position of his son Ivan was, however, of greater danger, for in
+1444 the kingdom of Hungary had fallen before the Turk, and they
+captured Constantinople nine years later; after this Servia, Bosnia,
+Albania (on the death of Skenderbeg), and Hercegovina were overrun in
+quick succession. In 1484 Ivan found himself obliged to burn his
+capital of Zabljak, and retire into the more inaccessible mountain
+fastnesses of the Katunska, the district round Cetinje. Cetinje itself
+was chosen by Ivan as his new centre, and though hardly pressed, he
+inflicted many severe defeats upon the Turks. Arrived in his new
+capital, he called his braves together, and told them that if they
+would surrender to the foe, they must find a new Prince, for, as for
+himself, he preferred death. So this little band of warriors, and they
+could not have numbered more than eight thousand fighting men, swore
+to resist this almighty foe to death--not to attack, but to resist. It
+must have been an impressive scene, this compact between Prince and
+people, and later history bears out fully how nobly the descendants of
+these mountain warriors have kept to their oath. For they, alone, of
+all the Balkan states, have successfully repulsed the Turk, who,
+though often seemingly victorious, has returned home with shattered
+armies and full of impotent rage.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF MONTENEGRO.]
+
+In their need they applied to Venice for help, quoting the great
+assistance that they were rendering her in occupying the Turks; but
+the Queen of Cities, who was at that moment occupied in patching up a
+treaty with the Sultan, turned a deaf ear to their entreaties.
+Montenegro found then, for the first time--and all through her history
+she was destined to find the same--that she must fight her battles
+alone. Allies have used her always for their own ends and then
+shamefully deserted her. Yet all through the spirit of indomitable
+courage has never deserted the children of Crnagora, for they could
+never forget the oath which their forefathers had sworn for them.
+
+Ivan, after several great victories, was left to end his days in
+peace. He spent his years well in strengthening the land, both in the
+arts of war and peace. In Obod, which is close to Rijeka, he erected a
+printing press, some twenty years after Caxton had set up his in
+Westminster, and though it was afterwards burnt by the Turks, still
+the remembrance of it remains right glorious in Montenegrin memory.
+
+The last Crnoievic relinquished his home for Venice. He had married a
+Venetian wife, who, among the bleak mountains of the Katunska, was
+pining for the sun and warmth of her native city. But before leaving
+he laid down the lines for a powerful r�gime. A Prince-Bishop, or
+Vladika, was placed at the head of affairs, but, to help him in his
+difficult task, there was created a second office, that of Civil
+Governor, who was to hold a subordinate position. This office was
+abolished in 1832 by Peter II., on the treachery of the Civil Governor
+Radonic, who was found to have intrigued with the Austrians.
+
+From 1616 to 1696 the Vladikas were elective, and under their
+quarrelsome rule Cetinje was twice burnt and phoenix-like rose again
+from its ashes. The Turkish armies, though partially victorious,
+usually met with disaster and ruin before reaching their own territory
+again; and we read of one notable occasion when Soliman Pasha, with an
+army of 80,000 men, had sacked Cetinje. On his way home he was
+surprised by the two tribes of Kuc and Klementi, and annihilated. But
+as time went on it became necessary from political reasons to change
+the system of government from election to heredity, and the choice
+fell on the Lord of Njegusi Danilo Petrovic, whose reign (1696-1735)
+is chiefly memorable for the Montenegrin vespers of the Turks and
+Turkish renegades, who had rendered so much assistance to Kiuprili
+Pasha in one of his terrible invasions. But a crushing defeat of the
+Turks in 1706 gave the land peace for thirty years.
+
+In 1767 an adventurer named Stefan Mali sprang himself upon the land.
+He claimed to be the murdered Peter III. of Russia, and easily imposed
+himself upon the gullible Montenegrin. But he had the interests of
+Montenegro sincerely at heart, and proved an excellent ruler. His
+imposture was exposed by Catherine II., but owing to the weakness of
+the Petrovic heir, the people determined to keep him as their ruler.
+He fell a victim to the assassin's knife at the instigation of the
+Pasha of Scutari. His successor, Peter Petrovic, the famous St. Peter
+of Montenegrin history, was a firm and courageous ruler, who made his
+influence felt throughout the courts of Europe. Austria, Russia, and
+England did not scruple to avail themselves of his help and then, as
+seems to be the Montenegrin fate, left him in the lurch. He defied the
+armies of the great Napoleon, who came to fear him and his warlike
+clan insomuch that he was even offered terms of friendship. But the
+proud mountaineer would have none of it. He now turned his hand, under
+the influence of Russia, which was then very real, to the
+consolidation of the land, and slept in peace with his fathers.
+
+His successor, Peter II., carried on the struggle with the Turks, who
+proposed an increase of territory and a Turkish title in return for
+the acknowledgment of suzerainty. "As long as my people defend me,"
+was the proud answer, "I need no Turkish title to my throne; if they
+desert me, such a title would avail me little." War was the effect of
+this retort, but the Turks gained nothing by it, and peace was soon
+made.
+
+The danger of the power of Austria came now to be fully recognised.
+After the Napoleonic wars, Austria had retained Cattaro and Spizza,
+and trouble now broke out over some land near Budua. The Montenegrins
+fell upon the Austrians, and fierce conflicts ensued, but Peter, who
+had gained an extraordinary hold over his subjects, forbade them to
+continue. Hostilities, however, continued in a desultory fashion for
+some time.
+
+Peter was followed by Danilo II., a weak ruler, but his reign is
+famous for two events--the cession of the spiritual authority of the
+Prince-Bishop to an Archbishop and the "Great Charter" of Montenegro.
+Danilo's reforms, however, led the Turk again to attack his invincible
+foe, only again to end in great disaster. But in the Crimean War
+Montenegro, greatly to the disgust of the people, did not participate,
+and in the Congress which followed Danilo was offered a Turkish title
+and the hated Turkish protectorate. His willingness to accept this led
+to the formation of a strong opposition party who demanded war.
+Fortune was on their side, and the Turks invaded Montenegro. The
+command fell to Mirko, who from his former exploits had gained the
+name of the "Sword of Montenegro." A battle was fought at Grahovo,
+which will ever live in memory as the Montenegrin Marathon. The Turks
+were completely crushed by a small force of Montenegrins, and peace
+followed. His brief reign was brought to a close at Cattaro, in 1861,
+by an assassin's bullet, and Nicolas, his nephew, reigned in his
+stead.
+
+War broke out again on the Hercegovinian insurrection of the following
+year, the results of which were disastrous in a high degree to
+Montenegro. Even the famous Mirko, the father of Prince Nicolas, after
+sixty battles, could do no more, and the Convention of Scutari (1862)
+brought the war to a close. It was settled that Mirko, as the
+firebrand, must leave the country, and various other clauses appear in
+the Convention, few of which seem to have been strictly adhered to. It
+needed another war to settle the Turco-Montenegrin border.
+
+The land now enjoyed the blessings of peace for fourteen years, which
+included a severe famine and an outbreak of cholera. Help was now,
+however, forthcoming from all sides in the shape of corn and money. In
+1869 it was with great difficulty that the Prince could restrain his
+warlike subjects from aiding the revolted Krivosejans. The Emperor of
+Austria fully recognised the harm which Montenegro could have done
+him, and signalised his thanks by the gift of an Austrian Order. But
+the Montenegrins could not be restrained at the outbreak of the
+Hercegovinian revolt, and flocked to the standards of their brothers.
+The Porte's remonstrances were met with a curt demand for the cession
+of Hercegovina, and Prince Nicolas published at the same time an
+offensive and defensive alliance with Servia.
+
+Immediately after this (1876) he declared war. Success followed his
+arms everywhere. A short armistice was concluded, but nothing further
+came of it, and the war proceeded. The Prince in person stormed the
+town of Niksic. Podgorica and its fertile plain fell into the hands of
+the conquerors, and then in quick succession Antivari and Dulcigno
+were forced to yield. He was about to commence the siege of Scutari
+when news came of the armistice between Russia and Turkey. The war had
+shown that no deteriorating element had sprung up among the people;
+they had fought as their ancestors had fought before them, and covered
+their name with glory and renown. Montenegro had gained a European
+reputation from this war, and the Porte, bowing to force of
+circumstances, finally recognised her independence. For five weary
+centuries had this struggle continued, and it is owing to the talent
+of their present ruler that the consummation of their hopes has been
+brought about. Free they always have been, but an acknowledgment of
+their freedom has ever been set aside. At last they have attained
+their object. The Turk no longer regards them as an insubordinate
+province, and it is more than likely that their former hatred of the
+Turk will pass away, for they have another enemy, who is pressing at
+their doors on three sides. The terms of the Berlin Congress granted
+to Montenegro Zabljak, Spuz, Podgorica, and Antivari. Dulcigno was to
+be restored to the Turks, and in exchange Gusinje and Plava were to be
+added to Montenegro. But the Albanian communities refused the lordship
+of Montenegro, and Dulcigno was granted to the Prince after a great
+naval demonstration of the Powers in 1880.
+
+The result of this campaign was that Prince Nicolas found his little
+kingdom increased from an area of 2,580 square kilometres, containing
+a population of 178,000 inhabitants, to over 9,000 square kilometres
+and a population of at least 240,000. In the last twenty-five years it
+has increased to quite another 100,000 inhabitants.
+
+War has never again seriously threatened Montenegro, and Prince
+Nicolas has been enabled to devote all his energies to the improvement
+of the land.
+
+There is now no district, however wild and cut off it may be, without
+its school, attendance at which is purely voluntary. Right well have
+the people availed themselves of this chance of education, and a
+sliding scale of school fees permits even the poorest peasant to send
+his son as well as his more wealthy brother.
+
+The teachers have a seminary at Cetinje, which they must first attend,
+and a gymnasium on the German and Austrian system can be visited, for
+those boys who wish to extend their education to an European standard.
+The same boys usually visit some Russian University, occasionally
+Vienna or Belgrade, and return to their native land as doctors,
+engineers, or lawyers, and supply the learned professions.
+
+At Cetinje there is a further High School for Girls, founded by the
+Empress Marie of Russia in 1869.
+
+As the older men have not enjoyed in their youth the advantages of an
+education which is now placed within the reach of all, lecturers are
+sent round the country, and on Sundays, in wild and cut-off districts,
+a man can be seen lecturing to a group of rough mountaineers who are
+listening intently. These Government lecturers teach the shepherds how
+to safeguard their sheep and cattle from disease; the lowland peasants
+are initiated into the mysteries of vine-growing (every Montenegrin
+family must plant a vine and attend to it) and tobacco-planting, and
+general information is given to all.
+
+The Army has been thoroughly reorganised, and is now, thanks to the
+gift of the Czar, armed with the most modern magazine rifle and
+officered by men who undergo a training in the armies of Russia,
+Italy, or France.
+
+The army system is of the simplest. The actual standing army consists
+of one battalion and a force of artillery, but during the year 4,000
+men pass through its ranks and receive a most efficient training. The
+men return to their homes at the end of four months' training, but
+drill weekly continues, on Sundays, till the age limit of sixty is
+reached, when their arms have to be returned to the Government, who
+again serve them out to the next recruit. Thus the recruit comes
+equipped for his four months' training, and takes his arms home with
+him at the conclusion, and is responsible for their good condition.
+Each man receives a certain number of cartridges, for which he must
+always be able to account, so that every able-bodied man is an
+efficient and well-armed soldier capable of taking the field at any
+moment.
+
+The smartest men become non-commissioned officers, and carry the
+insignia of their rank on their caps back to private life, where they
+become again the instructors of the local militia companies. There are
+two classes of commissioned officers--the officer of the standing
+army, trained in a Continental army, and who wears a distinctive
+uniform, and at least one of these is detailed for service in all the
+militia centres; and the militia officer, who receives his training
+with the standing battalion or batteries.
+
+Thus at a preconcerted signal, by trumpet and bonfires at night, and
+in some districts by a salvo of rifles, the whole Montenegrin Army can
+be mobilised at any given spot within the time that the furthest
+detachment can travel to the place of rendezvous. An example of the
+rapidity and ease of this mobilisation was once given to the late
+Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria, at Cetinje, when an army, drawn from
+every part of the country, equipped and ready for the field, was
+assembled within thirty-six hours of the first alarm. There is no
+commissariat, for each soldier supplies his own food, or rather his
+wife will keep him supplied in a lengthy campaign; no cavalry, for
+they are useless; and no heavy artillery.
+
+Law is administered by district courts for the more serious cases,
+with a Supreme Court of Appeal at Cetinje. There are no lawyers or
+costs; each man brings his own case and witnesses in civil matters,
+and criminals are dealt with summarily--that is to say, his district
+captain sends him in chains to Podgorica, where he receives his final
+sentence. The smaller district captains and "kmets," or mayors, have a
+limited amount of jurisdiction, and can inflict punishments, either in
+fines or short terms of imprisonment. They also settle all minor cases
+of dispute.
+
+The central, and soon to be the only, prison is at Podgorica. The
+majority of prisoners are undergoing different sentences, with and
+without chains, for murders in connection with the vendetta, according
+to the circumstances. A man who defends his honour, who kills his
+slanderer, is very lightly punished.
+
+Against only one class of offender does Prince Nicolas exercise his
+autocratic powers, _i.e._ the political offender, with whom he is
+relentless. Such men are thrown into prison, interred in dark cells
+without trial, and can languish till death sets them free. In this
+respect the Prince is harsh, and according to Western ideas barbaric,
+though local circumstances fully excuse his seeming cruelty. The
+smallness of the prison at Podgorica shows more forcibly than anything
+else the remarkable lack of crime in the land. At present (1902)
+dangerous lunatics are confined in the common prison, but an asylum is
+rapidly nearing completion.
+
+The government is autocratic. A senate, composed of the different
+ministers, exists in Cetinje, but all powers are jealously held by the
+Prince. He appoints the ministers and all the higher officials of the
+land, and only recently have the people been granted the right to
+elect the kmets.
+
+Montenegrin engineers now build the roads in place of Austrians and
+Russians, and the difficulties that they meet with and surpass at
+every turn are sufficient evidence of their capabilities. Foreign
+doctors and professors are yearly becoming more rare. In fact,
+Montenegro is rapidly becoming self-supporting and self-educating.
+
+Literature, always in olden times in advance of the surrounding lands,
+is fostered by the Prince, himself a scholar and a poet of no mean
+order. Two weekly papers in Cetinje and Niksic have a large
+circulation.
+
+Under Prince Nicolas' fatherly care the country improves in a
+wonderful manner from year to year. Roads are planned to connect the
+whole land, which only lack of funds are hindering from completion,
+and a railway is projected to connect the towns of Niksic, Podgorica,
+and Rijeka with Antivari and the sea.
+
+When Prince Nicolas shall be called to his fathers his son, Prince
+Danilo, will worthily carry on the work so nobly begun by his father,
+for he is a man imbued with the ideas of Western improvements and
+civilisation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+The journey to Montenegro--Arrival in Cattaro--Beauty of the Bocche,
+and the drive to the frontier--First impressions of
+Montenegro--Njegusi--The national troubadours--Arrival in Cetinje.
+
+
+The simplest way of entering the Land of the Black Mountain is _vi�_
+Cattaro in Dalmatia. The sea-trip from Trieste, which takes a little
+over twenty-four hours, is a revelation of beauty, for the Dalmatian
+coast is sadly unknown to the traveller. The journey can also be made
+from Fiume, whence the "Ungaro-Croata" send a good and very frequent
+service of steamers. But the idler should take a slow boat and coast
+lazily down the Dalmatian archipelago, visiting all the smaller towns
+and islands, which the fast line is bound to avoid. It is one of the
+most beautiful sea-trips in Europe, each little port possessing gems
+of old Roman and Venetian architecture, unrivalled, perhaps, in the
+world and set in a perfect framework of lovely country and dancing
+seascape.
+
+It was a glorious morning in May when the _Graf Wurmbrand_, the
+Austrian-Lloyd's fast steamer, left Trieste, bearing us to Cattaro.
+The Gulf of Trieste is very beautiful, for the green hills, all
+dotted with villas, the busy harbour life, the Julian Alps rising up
+majestically far away on the starboard, and directly behind the town,
+gaunt and grey, the naked Karst, of which we were to see so much in
+Montenegro; all made a picture that it would be difficult to forget.
+
+At midday we arrived at Pola. The entrance to the harbour is well
+covered by islands, and on each of these frowns a great fort, some of
+which, however, are so carefully hidden that their locality is only
+betrayed by a flagstaff. A narrow channel leads to the inner harbour,
+Austria's naval dockyard and arsenal. Here are the warships and
+building yards, and away to the left, as a strange and unfitting
+contrast, the Arena, one of the best-preserved specimens of Roman
+work, rises seemingly from amongst the houses. Pola is full of Roman
+remains. All is so green and peaceful, in spite of the countless
+fortifications which render the harbour well-nigh, if not quite,
+impregnable, that Nature and War seem for once to go hand-in-hand.
+
+[Illustration: THE GRAF WURMBRAND IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO]
+
+At twilight Zara looms up into view, and another short stay is made.
+The town turns out _en masse_ for the coming of the _Wurmbrand_ or the
+_Pannonia_--the fast boats from Trieste or Fiume are the events of the
+week. There is no railway here. Unluckily Dalmatia's finest scenery is
+passed in the night. Trau, with its splendid loggias and churches;
+Spalato, with the grandeur of Diocletian's palace, are denied to
+the traveller; Lesina, proudly calling itself the Nice of Austria;
+Curzola, whose mighty Venetian bastions stand out into the sea, and
+many another delightful little town and island, only show a twinkling
+light or two in the darkness as the steamer ploughs by. At daybreak we
+are nearing Gravosa, Ragusa's modern port. As we leave again, and
+round the peninsula of Lapad, glorious in a mass of semi-tropical
+vegetation, Ragusa bursts upon our view. Seen on a sunny morning it is
+a sight for the gods. Built well into the sea on inaccessible cliffs,
+surrounded by lofty walls, with a great hill as a background, it has
+well been called the prettiest bit of Dalmatia. It possesses a
+magnificent winter climate and a good hotel, so that people are
+forsaking the Riviera for this comparatively unknown paradise.
+
+Far too soon Ragusa fades away, and now the approaching mountains grow
+higher and wilder. Those lofty peaks, towering above the others, black
+and forbidding, are Nature's bulwarks of the land which we are
+visiting. It is from a distance that the name "Black Mountain" seems
+so aptly given to this fierce little state, though some historians
+wish to explain the derivation otherwise.
+
+The Bocche (or mouths) di Cattaro, three in number, are a consummate
+blending of the Norwegian fjords and the Swiss lakes, and so lofty and
+steep are the surrounding mountains that the sun can only reach the
+bottom for a few hours at midday.
+
+Away at the end of one fjord lies the village of Risano, an idyllic
+spot, whence a road is in the course of construction to Niksic. All
+the worthy Bocchese are absolutely Montenegrin in sympathy, and
+Austria has had much trouble with these equally warlike Serbs.
+
+A curious conical hill rises out of the town, a high wall zigzags up
+to the fort above, showing Cattaro's strength of former days. Now, a
+few insignificant mounds of earth far away on the mountain-tops are
+all that is to be seen of the military might of modern Cattaro. Yet
+how powerful are those forts only the Austrian authorities know.
+Cattaro and the Bocche are impregnable from sea or land, though this
+array of strength against land attack seems almost unnecessary, as
+Montenegro possesses no heavy cannon at all. However, Austria is not
+reckoning in this case with Montenegro alone. But these are political
+questions.
+
+We were fortunate in securing a carriage of the Montenegrin post,
+which has good drivers, and what is still better, a fixed tariff, over
+which there can be no dispute. The drivers of Cattaro ask, and often
+get, twice the legal fare from ignorant strangers.
+
+Cattaro affords no comforts to the traveller; more is the pity, as it
+is one of the most magnificent spots in the world. The town itself is
+tiny and a perfect maze of little Venetian streets, in which it is
+easy to lose oneself if it were only larger. To walk upon the Riva and
+gaze upon those precipitous mountains which tower above the town and
+its militarily guarded walls is a sight which at first is hardly to be
+comprehended. It is too stupendous. Such a masterpiece of Nature can
+never tire.
+
+Montenegrins crowd the streets, and the little market is full of
+peasants who have wearily staggered down those steep paths in the
+early dawn with their enormous loads of field produce. Stately men
+wearing the insignia of their rank on their little caps pace up and
+down majestically and contrast strangely with the dapper Austrian
+officers. Their belts yawn suggestively, something is missing to
+complete the attire. It is the revolver, which Austrian law compels
+them to leave behind on entering her land. They are obviously ill at
+ease without that familiar weapon, for ever and anon a hand strays
+unconsciously to the empty belt seeking its wonted resting-place on
+the butt.
+
+Strolling one night on the Riva, we involuntarily held our breath as
+we came in sight of the huge lake, for it is easy to forget that this
+is the Adria. The waters lay unruffled before us, not a ripple
+disturbed those glassy depths which reflected every tree and cottage
+on the opposite bank. Each star found its double twinkling in that
+placid mirror, and mountain frowned back on mountain. It was almost
+unreal, so marvellous was the reflection. Behind us, at the top of the
+great ridge, a silvery effulgence proclaimed the coming of the moon.
+Her brilliant light silhouetted the grim and rocky ridge in startling
+clearness, though it was four thousand feet above us. Through a gap
+rises a peak, round which a filmy cloud had lovingly wrapped itself
+like a lace shawl upon the snowy shoulders of a beautiful woman. We
+took a turn down the quay, and at the end we turned our back on this
+witching view. Hardly had we retraced our steps a few yards when we
+and all our surroundings were bathed in a glorious white light. We
+turned again, and were almost forced to shield our eyes as we gazed on
+the gentle orb which had now surmounted the intervening ridge. The
+whole fjord was now transformed into a sea of silver almost as bright
+as midday. Each nestling village was distinct, even to the tiniest
+window; each tree and shrub on the wall-like mountain, and even the
+grim forts, were softened in that sweet radiance. The little paths
+which zigzag up the hills to the forts above look like great white
+snakes turning and twisting up those rugged cliffs.
+
+At four o'clock on the following morning we made a start, and were
+well up the mountain by the time that the sun began to make his
+presence felt.
+
+[Illustration: THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO]
+
+The high road to Cetinje was built by the Austrians, and it is a
+marvel of engineering skill, particularly the ascent of the almost
+perpendicular wall of mountain rising abruptly from Cattaro. In series
+of serpentines and gradients, which often permit the horses to trot,
+the road winds up and up, every turn giving a still finer view of the
+lake below. Cattaro remains in view practically the whole ascent. The
+view from the top is magnificent and unsurpassed in Europe. The grand
+bays look like miniature glass ponds, fringed with white toy villages,
+and far away in the distance the deep blue Adria sparkles and glitters
+in the sunshine.
+
+Montenegro is entered some little distance from the top, but, as only
+a row of paving stones indicates the spot, it is not till the carriage
+dashes through a rocky gorge and out into the open Karst beyond that
+the traveller realises that he has crossed the border. The sudden
+change is startling, from the blue sea and green valleys to grey
+masses of limestone rock and barren mountains. It is the Katunska, the
+original stronghold of the Montenegrins, within which they defied all
+comers.
+
+At the first house, solidly built of stone, our carriage halted, and
+the driver entered it, emerging with the revolver which he had to
+relinquish on entering Austria. It is a formidable weapon specially
+manufactured in Vienna for Montenegro, a foot and a half long, firing
+an enormous cartridge. The revolver is always worn, by all classes
+alike, and carried loaded by order. The upper classes carry a much
+smaller and handier weapon, but a revolver must be carried by prince
+and peasant alike.
+
+Njegusi is the first town or village reached, and here an hour's rest
+is always made. It is interesting, since it was once the temporary
+capital, and as the home of the Petrovic family, the reigning dynasty.
+It lies in a great hollow of fertile ground, and on the southern side
+the historical Lovcen ascends. On the top the great prince and hero,
+Peter II., is buried, and his mausoleum brings large numbers of
+pilgrims yearly.
+
+As our carriage drew up before the little hostelry, a crowd of boys
+were standing in front of a house opposite, which is half telegraph
+office and half school, for economy in buildings is practised in
+Montenegro. They saluted us smartly in military fashion. The born
+soldier is noticed at once, even in the small children; many
+generations of fighting ancestors have bequeathed a smartness and
+accuracy of movement which can be envied by many a Continental trained
+conscript.
+
+The traveller meets with little attention either here or in Cetinje.
+It is not till he gets well off the beaten track that he sees the
+hospitable and courteous Montenegrin as he really is.
+
+[Illustration: NJEGUSI]
+
+[Illustration: THE GUSLAR]
+
+During our frugal breakfast of raw ham and goat's cheese, our
+ears were assailed by the singing of the guslar, or Montenegrin
+troubadour. The guslars, we noticed, are invariably blind, and as no
+previous musical education seems necessary, it would appear to be a
+monopoly of those so afflicted. Their singing is execrable according
+to Western notions, a range of four or five notes in a wailing minor
+key making up their register, and they accompany themselves on an
+instrument (the gusla) from which they derive their name. It is
+hand-made, resembling a cross between a violin and a mandolin. It
+possesses one string, and is played with a short curved bow. With
+careful handling, a series of discordant notes of wearying monotony
+can be produced. The performance is altogether most doleful.
+
+Yet they are the history books, the legend tellers of the country.
+They fan the fire of patriotism and loyalty by songs of the deeds and
+accomplishments of their Prince, of dead heroes and past glorious
+battles, and form another link with the medi�val world of which the
+traveller is so strongly reminded at every step in Montenegro.
+
+As we left the village we passed the birthplace of Prince Nicolas I.,
+though the palace appears to have been entirely rebuilt. In nearly
+every town or village of importance the Prince has a house, varying
+considerably in size, but of equally unpretentious exterior.
+
+The road still climbs and reaches the maximum height of three thousand
+five hundred feet. From this altitude it steadily drops into Cetinje,
+which lies about two thousand feet above the sea-level. The scenery is
+unvarying, but not without beauty. It is essentially wild, but the
+light colour of the rocks and the numerous shrubs which find a footing
+in the crevices minimise the forbidding character of the country. The
+land is magnificently adapted for guerilla warfare, where every foot
+can be contested. Little patches of earth, washed down the hillsides,
+lie in every hollow, and have been utilised by the careful peasant to
+grow his tiny crops.
+
+After about seven hours' driving, Cetinje appears in sight, at the end
+of a long valley, and completely surrounded by the characteristic
+naked and rugged rocks. The road descends by another series of
+serpentines, and a long straight drive brings us into the town. The
+valley is about four miles long and three-quarters of a mile broad and
+absolutely flat.
+
+The effect is most odd at first sight, a long main street, an open
+market-place, and a few side streets constituting the capital of an
+important European principality. The town, on entering it, bears a
+strong resemblance to a South African township, where, as is the case
+here, space is no object, and the houses are rarely more than one
+story high.
+
+We stayed at the Grand Hotel during our first visit. It is the only
+really good hotel in Montenegro, and in consequence expensive. Here
+all the tourists stay for a night or so during a hasty visit to the
+Crnagora, and it is to be avoided by those who wish to see the
+country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The
+barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our
+departure for Podgorica.
+
+
+There is not much for the tourist to see in Cetinje; a day is quite
+sufficient to do the sights, such as they are.
+
+Unfortunately for the country, the tourist usually contents himself
+with a look round the little capital and returns the way he came to
+Cattaro, only a few prolonging the tour _vi�_ Rijeka to Scutari. Thus
+a very erroneous impression is gained of Montenegro and its people.
+Firstly only a small part of the Katunska is seen, which is the most
+uninteresting district of the whole country; and, secondly, no idea of
+the sturdy inhabitants can be formed from the handful of more or less
+well-to-do officials and merchants, all intimately connected with the
+outside world, round the proximity of Cattaro.
+
+[Illustration: MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY]
+
+[Illustration: THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG]
+
+Cetinje, with its four thousand inhabitants, is simply the residence
+of the Montenegrin Court, it is not even a trading centre, which the
+absence of the Turkish element sufficiently proclaims. It is only the
+question of expense which has hitherto prevented the transference
+of the capital to another site, viz. Nikzic. Cetinje was chosen as the
+capital some hundreds of years ago--1484, to be pedantically
+correct--when a defensible position was the most important factor,
+which even to-day is a point to be reckoned with.
+
+We will first go round "the sights."
+
+It possesses two historical buildings in the monastery and the
+Billard, the rest being all of quite modern origin. The monastery is a
+picturesque pile of grey stone, nestling under a lofty rock, on which
+is perched the identical round tower, or "kula," to give it its local
+name, on which the heads of Turks slain in battle were exhibited on
+spikes. It was not so very long ago that the last grim trophies of war
+graced its battlements. The monastery contains the burying vault of
+the reigning house, and is the residence of the Vladika or Archbishop
+of Montenegro. Prince Nicolas can be found any morning worshipping at
+the tombs of his ancestors by the visitor who is willing to rise at
+daybreak. Very often he is the only "faithful" present with the
+officiating priest at an hour when the sun has hardly peeped over the
+rocky ramparts of the town.
+
+Prince Nicolas, the lord of this warrior nation, is a man of imposing
+stature, so broad-shouldered that his height seems far less than it
+really is, walking with head erect and firm tread and clad in the rich
+national costume. The stranger involuntarily doffs his cap and
+receives in return a short military salute, but accompanied by such a
+piercing glance from a pair of cold grey eyes that he wonders if he is
+not an intruder in the land. This is, however, far from the case.
+Under that austere exterior beats a warm heart and an affability of
+manner to which the lowliest of his peasants will gladly testify.
+Prince Nicolas likes to see visitors to his land, and many are the
+little acts of kindness and courtesy that the traveller receives, all
+unknown, from his hand, for he knows the coming and going of everyone
+who makes a longer stay than usual.
+
+Sixty years ago Prince and Bishop were united in one person, and
+though the Bishop or Vladika has to-day no temporal power, yet in
+spiritual matters he is absolute. A very kindly man is the present
+Vladika, Mitrofanban. By an odd coincidence his was practically the
+first house we visited in Montenegro, and with him we drank our last
+cup of coffee when we left many months later.
+
+The other building is the old palace of the Princes of Montenegro,
+which won its odd name of Billard or Biljar from the fact that a
+former Prince was so addicted to the game of billiards that the
+principal room of the palace was devoted to the game. It is now used
+for State purposes. The upper floors are occupied by the Government
+offices, and at one corner is the Supreme Court of Justice and
+Appeal, whose judgments are only reversible by the Prince himself.
+Further, the school and printing works are to be found within its
+quaint old red-brick walls and bastions.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRINCE'S PALACE]
+
+Opposite to this picturesque old building stands the modern and
+uninteresting one-storied palace of Prince Nicolas. It shows the
+simplicity of his nature in perhaps a more marked degree than anything
+else, for little or no privacy from his people is possible. He walks
+from his house down a short flight of steps into the street. The small
+courtyard at the back is surrounded by a low wall, the entrances
+having no gates.
+
+The recently erected palace of the Crown Prince Danilo, which stands
+on the outskirts of the town, is a somewhat more pretentious building.
+It has a large garden completely walled in, which is at any rate an
+apology for privacy and seclusion.
+
+To obtain a comprehensive view of the town, we climbed a small hill
+immediately above the monastery, on whose summit stands the gilded
+cupola erected to the memory of Danilo Petrovic, the Lord of Njegusi,
+founder of the present dynasty. Very pretty the simple little town
+looks from here, its red roofs giving a pleasing touch of colour to
+the otherwise severe landscape of grey rock, dazzling white streets,
+and sparsely vegetated valley.
+
+One afternoon we visited the barracks, which are quite new, and the
+quarters of the battalion of the standing army. The barrack rooms are
+spotlessly clean, and the order and neatness unsurpassed, which,
+together with the smart drilling and superb physique of the soldiers,
+would delight the heart of the severest martinet. Everything connected
+with the military training of the Montenegrins is up to the standard
+of Continental excellence. All the officers undergo a long course of
+training, either in Russia, France, or Italy, and right well have they
+utilised this privilege. No wonder that the warlike Montenegrin drills
+as well as his Continental brother. The standing army wear uniforms,
+and at a distance remind one of our own troops, with their
+tight-fitting, short red jackets and tiny caps.
+
+[Illustration: _Monastery Billard Prince's Palace_ GENERAL VIEW OF THE
+CETINJE]
+
+Other conspicuous buildings are the theatre, where performances are
+given in the winter in the Serb language and where Prince Nicolas'
+famous drama, _The Empress of the Balkans_, was first performed; the
+house of the Austro-Hungarian Minister, which is the best in
+Cetinje,[1] and the hospital. It is the only hospital in Montenegro,
+and is used almost solely for serious surgical operations. Here Prince
+Mirko, the second son of Prince Nicolas, spends much of his time, for
+his tastes run to bacteriology, and his skill with the microscope is
+acknowledged. He is also a musician of no mean order, and the march
+which he composed in honour of the city of Rome, and which was
+performed there under the leadership of Mascagni, will be in the
+memory of all. He has none of the tastes of his elder brother, who,
+true to the traditions of his country, is a mighty hunter, and whose
+prowess with rifle, gun, and revolver is acclaimed by the people who
+understand these gifts better.
+
+[Footnote 1: The Russian Minister has now an equally imposing
+edifice.]
+
+By far the most interesting episode of our sojourn in Cetinje was a
+visit to the prison, which we were enabled to do with our camera, by
+the kindness of the Minister of Justice. It was the first time in the
+annals of Montenegro that strangers had been allowed to take
+photographs in a prison.
+
+At the appointed hour we approached the plain building, surrounded by
+no wall of any kind, which does duty as the prison. It is soon to be
+done away with, and all the prisoners will be transferred to the
+central prison at Podgorica. Smiling warders welcomed us and conducted
+us to their living-room, barely furnished and with an array of
+revolvers--the property of the prisoners--hanging on the walls. A
+female prisoner prepared us coffee, and while we were sipping the
+inevitable beverage a glance through the window showed us men busily
+sweeping the courtyard of the prison.
+
+First of all a warder showed us the fetters--heavy, cumbersome irons,
+which are riveted to one or both ankles, according to the sentence.
+But it is only in exceptional cases of aggravated crime that this
+severer sentence is meted out to the offender. Then we were conducted
+by the main and only entrance into the courtyard, two sides of which
+contain the cells of the prisoners. These gentlemen rose with alacrity
+to their feet as we entered, evidently much pleased at the honour of
+our visit. Only three men were chained, and of these one remained
+moodily seated, staring indifferently on the ground before him. He
+formed such a contrast to his fellow-prisoners' smiling faces that we
+observed him closer, noticing that his clothes were such as the
+officials and better class wear.
+
+"Who is he?" I asked.
+
+"A Government clerk convicted of embezzlement," was the answer. "Six
+weeks in chains is his sentence."
+
+"And what have the other criminals done?" was our next query.
+
+"Oh, they have mostly quarrelled amongst themselves. They are not
+criminals. We have very few thieves and robbers in Montenegro. This
+youth," went on our informant, pointing to a young man with a pleasant
+face, and who grinned with joy as he noticed the attention with which
+we favoured him, "has a ten years' sentence for quarrelling."
+
+"But quarrelling," we repeated. "Is it punishable to _quarrel_?"
+
+"Yes, too many lives are lost," was the laconic reply.
+
+"Oh," we exclaimed, a light breaking in upon us, "you mean murder!
+They are all murderers?"
+
+"We have no murderers," came the indignant response. "Our land is as
+safe from murder as any other in the world. No one kills to rob or
+steal in Montenegro. But we just quarrel amongst ourselves. We are
+hot-blooded and shoot quickly, that is all."
+
+P. and I looked at each other, but neither of us felt inclined to
+venture any further remarks; so we examined a dark cell with interest,
+without furniture or light, and one of six used for the worst kind of
+offender, viz. the political. They were all untenanted. We had all
+crowded inside, our warders as well, and as we emerged again into the
+strong light, I noticed the gate wide open and no visible guard.
+
+"You have left the gate open!" exclaimed P., as he saw it.
+
+Our warders laughed. Afterwards we understood.
+
+Then we inspected a common cell, where about a dozen men sleep. Each
+man brings his own bedding and nicknacks, with which he decorates the
+wall above his bed and makes the place as much like home as possible.
+Loss of liberty is the only real punishment, and even that is not
+carried to an excess. The Prince has said that the restraint that they
+suffer is enough, and thus the prisoners have comparatively free
+intercourse with the outside world, plenty to eat, and on festivals
+wine and even spirits and a dance with their friends outside. This
+latter scene we witnessed some time afterwards on another visit to
+Cetinje. The only real severity is the chains, but these sturdy
+mountaineers soon accustom themselves to these thirty-pound trinkets,
+and when photographed take good care to arrange them tastefully and
+prominently. When we lined them up for a picture, we demanded a front
+place for the chained men, to their intense delight and the chagrin of
+the others who cast envious glances at their more favoured brethren.
+No doubt in that moment the unchained men wished they had gone just a
+little further in their "quarrel."
+
+After a pleasant half-hour with these quarrelsome gentlemen, we went
+round to the ladies who occupy a wing of the prison, with all windows
+and doors facing outwards on to the open ground. Again no fence or
+wall marked a limit to their prison, and they walk in and out of their
+cells at leisure. However, there is a boundary marked out by posts and
+trees, beyond which they may not go. As we appeared they were sitting
+about, singly and in groups, knitting peacefully in the warm sunshine.
+We again inspected their quarters, and learnt that the odd score of
+women represented the total crime of the land.
+
+[Illustration: THE FEMALE PRISONERS]
+
+A blushing and gratified array of staid matrons and coquettish girls
+faced the camera, again only one young maiden of fifteen or sixteen
+showing any sense of shame, and she fled into her cell, only to be
+ruthlessly ordered out by a warder.
+
+Soon afterwards we took our leave, and as we crossed the small
+unenclosed square before the men's prison we found it crowded by the
+late inmates of the courtyard, walking merrily up and down or chatting
+with friends on the outskirts, over which neither party may step. Only
+the dismal clanking of a chain here and there proclaimed to the casual
+observer the fact that they were prisoners. Lithe, active, and
+athletic men, none of whom fear death, and guarded by four warders in
+the loosest possible fashion, yet they never attempt a dash for
+freedom up the rocky slope which reaches down to their very promenade
+ground. Flight would entail their escaping from their country
+altogether, never to return, and that no Montenegrin has ever been
+known to do. Even though they work for years in strange lands, they
+invariably return to their rugged native mountains and end their days
+in peace. And so they serve their time in patience, and go home at the
+expiry of the sentence "without a stain on their character."
+
+Many months afterwards we chanced to arrive in Cetinje on the occasion
+of a great feast. A stranger happened to be with us, a German, and we
+were showing him the sights. Naturally we also wended our way to the
+prison, hoping to be able to give him the unique spectacle of the
+prisoners strolling freely up and down their garden. As we neared the
+square sounds of singing and music assailed our ears, and in front of
+the women's quarters a large ring was swaying to and fro in the
+national dance termed "kolo." Men and women were performing together,
+otherwise the sexes are kept severely apart, while others sat around
+in groups partaking of wine and food which their friends or relations
+had brought them, and they all sat chatting and laughing together as
+though this were their natural state of existence.
+
+"The prisoners," I said, pointing to the dancers.
+
+"Nonsense," said the German.
+
+"Come nearer and listen," I answered, for even I had my doubts for the
+moment; but my ear had caught the clanking of chains above the wild
+music.
+
+They were the prisoners right enough, and many of the men moved
+heavily and awkwardly to the slow rhythm of the motion. It is not easy
+to dance with such ornaments as are provided free and gratis by the
+paternal Prince to curb an exuberance of spirits.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRISONERS DANCING]
+
+A great trial that the photographer has to undergo, be he professional
+or a strolling amateur, is the immediate demand for the picture. The
+mysteries of dark rooms and developing are not to be lightly
+explained, and the refusal to show the picture, for which the vain
+Montenegrins have so willingly stood, is accounted churlish. They are
+only appeased with a promise of a picture a few weeks later. Their
+names and addresses are hurriedly scribbled and handed with many
+peremptory requests for the picture to be sent as soon as possible.
+
+Just before we left Cetinje, on our way to Podgorica, during our first
+visit, a bowing and deeply humble individual accosted us in the hotel.
+When he had straightened himself up a bit, and we could see his face,
+we recognised one of the prison warders. After many expressions of
+sorrow for disturbing us, we gathered that on the occasion of our
+visit to the prison only three of the four warders had been present.
+The fourth--and it would appear the head warder--had arrived after our
+departure, and learning of the photographs and his omission, had made
+things a bit hot for his three favoured confr�res. Therefore would we
+of our goodness come and photograph him, and thus make life worth
+living again? Would we restore the peace and harmony of that little
+community?
+
+With sorrow we declined, our carriage awaited us, and the day was hot.
+Some other time, we said. And with that uncertain comfort he was
+forced to be content.
+
+"But," he said, "the money which you have so generously given us and
+the prisoners has been expended on 'raki' (local spirits). We and the
+prisoners will pray for your souls for many nights ere we sleep."
+
+As we drove up the ascent from the town towards our new destination,
+we glanced back at the red-roofed little capital and noticed the low,
+grey stone building of the prison.
+
+"We ought to sleep well to-night," remarked P., nodding towards it.
+
+It is something to be prayed for, even if only by criminals of the
+quarrelsome type.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The
+market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside
+hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Moraca--The Vizier bridge--Old
+war-marks--First and last impressions of Podgorica.
+
+
+The drive from Cetinje to Rijeka, and from thence till the final
+descent to Podgorica, is quite as fine as any other part of
+Montenegro. For about twenty minutes after leaving Cetinje the road
+climbs and attains its greatest altitude on this tour, and at its
+highest point--only half an hour's walk from the town--possesses one
+of the most striking and beautiful views. It is rightly called "Bella
+Vista," and a shelter hut and chairs are thoughtfully provided for the
+visitor.
+
+A wonderful panorama meets his eye as he suddenly reaches the top. A
+fantastic sea, as it were, of hills, like the waves of a storm-tossed
+ocean, encircles him, and at his feet, green and wooded, lies a long
+fertile valley. Stretching far away into the gates of distance in its
+vast expanse, glitters the Lake of Scutari. Round a small dim spur of
+land running into the lake, lies Scutari itself, which is, however,
+not visible. To the left a forbidding chain of magnificent mountains,
+dwarfing the intervening hills into insignificance, fascinate him by
+their repellent grandeur. Snow-clad, except in the height of summer,
+these mountains seem symbolical of the land they border, that savage
+and unknown Albania. A glimpse of a green valley below can just be
+caught, there lies Podgorica, our destination. At our feet a long,
+low-lying plateau ends abruptly in a wall of rock, through which the
+road vanishes, and which can be traced white and threadlike on the
+overhanging hillside. Beyond is the valley and town of Rijeka. The
+mountains to the right are the Rumija, behind whose naked comb is the
+deep blue Adria, and which we must climb to reach the port of
+Antivari. The lake is dotted at the near end with islands,
+distinguishable amongst which is a conical-shaped hill crowned by a
+fortress. That is Zabljak, the whilom capital of Crnagora, and home of
+its ancient rulers, the Black Prince dynasty. The whole view is like a
+map in bas-relief.
+
+Gone now are the barren rocks and sparsely vegetated hills of the
+Katunska, and we are now in the fertile middle zone of Mediterranean
+vegetation, which includes the valley of the Zeta right up to Niksic.
+
+As we careered along, we were closely followed by another carriage,
+in which were crowded five Montenegrins and Albanians, who were
+evidently bent on making the pace. The Montenegrins are ever reckless
+drivers; they dash round sharp corners at full gallop, with a
+precipice of several hundred feet below--and there is never sufficient
+parapet to prevent a carriage dashing over--so that one involuntarily
+leans to the inner side of the carriage with that uncomfortable
+sinking feeling which can be experienced at sea. With a shout to warn
+anybody coming up the hill, the driver cracks his whip and dashes
+round each corner with a sublime indifference to danger.
+
+Whenever we slackened, our pursuing carriage came up at a rush, and
+its occupants emitted wild yells and vociferated polite requests to
+pass. Off we tore again, and at last reached that point where the
+descent begins in serpentines to Rijeka. When we were tearing along a
+lower level of the road, but a few yards below our rivals, we noticed
+with momentary misgivings that they had drawn their long revolvers and
+were holding them in their hands.
+
+Suddenly they began to fire, for no apparent reason, which habit is
+apt to be startling to a nervous traveller on his first journey. But
+our youthful driver let fly an answering shot; on inquiring he told us
+that it was to encourage the horses. Afterwards we never rode or drove
+any distance in the country without our revolvers, so that we too
+might help in the encouragement.
+
+That afternoon Rijeka presented a brilliant picture. On entering the
+town hundreds of peasants were congregated round the cattle-market on
+the outskirts, but it was on the broad street by the river bank that
+the most animated scene was to be witnessed. Every Montenegrin town
+should be seen on a market day, for then the peasants from far and
+near, in their best clothes and rifles over their shoulders, flock to
+the town with cattle and sheep and field produce. Rifles are usually
+carried when going on a long journey, particularly in the vicinity of
+Albania. This is partly as a sign of allegiance to their Prince, but
+chiefly because Montenegro stands ever before a sudden mobilisation.
+Should the soldier peasant hear the alarm, he must make his way at
+once for the rendezvous as speedily as possible, without d�tour.
+Further, hundreds of armed Albanians from the borders are always in
+their midst, as was the case to-day.
+
+Rijeka is a very busy little place, being the half-way village between
+the capital and Podgorica, and is still more important as the
+starting-point of the little steamer which plies twice weekly down the
+lake to Scutari. The river runs between lovely green hills rising
+straight from its banks, wooded and luxuriant, reminding one not a
+little of the Thames at Cookham.
+
+The Prince has a small palace just beyond the town, and spends the
+coldest winter months here, where he escapes the rigours of the
+climate in Cetinje. About half-an-hour's walk is the ancient fortress
+of Obod, famed in history as the site of the first printing-press
+(destroyed very soon by the Turks) in the Balkans, and indeed one of
+the first in the world, for Caxton was only a few years ahead. The
+fact speaks for the ever forward striving spirit which has animated
+Montenegro's rulers since its very foundation, and which only the
+rigours of pitiless warfare have hindered.
+
+On leaving the pretty little township, we had considerable difficulty
+in forcing our way through the flocks which continually blocked the
+road. All the way we ploughed through herds of cattle and stampeding
+sheep and goats, much to the disgust of their shepherds. These men,
+chiefly vicious-looking Albanians, with loosely-slung rifle, and round
+their waist a bandolier of cartridges, lend a wildness to the lonely
+road which is likely to mislead the new-comer; and should one of them
+empty his revolver light-heartedly in the air, to be answered by
+another some distance away, the impression is considerably heightened.
+
+The road climbs to a good height immediately and commands a fine view
+of the valley with the little river winding in and out. In winter the
+effect is that of a great flood, for everywhere partially submerged
+trees and bushes show above the water. But in reality it was only a
+natural course of events, for in summer the water recedes and leaves
+great fields on which crops of maize are grown, while during the
+winter or rainy months the whole district of fertile land becomes
+again submerged. This view of the Rijeka was decidedly one of the
+prettiest in the country, combining, as it does every now and then,
+glimpses of the lake and the majestic Albanian Alps.
+
+Always followed by our rival party, we halted at a wayside inn to
+refresh both man and beast. These inns are quaint little places. There
+is seldom any other floor than that already provided by Nature, which
+has been beaten flat.
+
+We called for coffee, and partook of the country's wine, to whose
+acidity we never accustomed ourselves, and entered into conversation
+with our convivial companions. One, a horse dealer, spoke excellent
+Italian, and we met him often afterwards in the course of our travels.
+
+When we had finished our libations, we naturally wished to have the
+bill or rather to know how much there was to pay.
+
+"Nothing," was the answer.
+
+"But we have had ----" It is not well to particularise--it was a
+thirsty day.
+
+"There is nothing to pay," the woman reiterated.
+
+The other party had guiltily slipped out of the room and climbed into
+their carriage, and our driver became impatient to maintain the lead.
+With mixed feelings we followed him out, and in another second were
+off again at a gallop.
+
+It was always like that in Montenegro. We have gone into an inn or
+caf� and drunk a liqueur (a polite name for the fiery but wholesome
+local spirit), when a fresh glass will be silently placed before us.
+We have waved it away.
+
+"Not ordered it," we would say.
+
+"That man has," answers the boy, and points at a smiling Montenegrin
+on the other side of the room. Sometimes, and very often too, other
+guests follow suit, and the result is trying. We gave up visits to
+caf�s afterwards, except when we were on pleasure bent and had an hour
+to spare. Hospitable, reckless, poverty-stricken Montenegrins--one can
+travel far before another such a race can be found.
+
+The last two hours of the drive are uninteresting, chiefly because
+eight hours in a carriage is trying. Podgorica comes in sight long
+before it is reached, in the form of a cluster of trees on a grassy
+but dead-level plain, out of which two minarets show their graceful
+spires. The background is imposing, lowering Albanian mountains rise
+abruptly to their lofty heights from the level of the plain.
+
+For an hour we drove along the plain, and passed a solitary building
+situated on a slight eminence. It was Krusevac, one of the Prince's
+country palaces, or, to be more correct, Prince Mirko's palace, as
+"Voivoda" or Duke of the Zeta, which ancient and historical title is
+his. Then for some distance we skirted the Moraca, driving in an
+opposite direction to Podgorica till we came to the "Vizier" bridge,
+over which we crossed and retraced our way to the town.
+
+The River Moraca is a large mountain torrent, into which the Zeta
+flows only a short distance away from the town. It rushes over great
+boulders, forming here and there formidable rapids, between two deep
+banks, which, without any warning, break off suddenly from the flat
+and form precipitous sides fully two hundred feet deep. Two or three
+hundred yards away, no gap or break in the plain is observable.
+Sometimes the river swells almost to the top of its banks, and then
+the effect must be terrible. There is a ford near Podgorica, which the
+peasants use to avoid the long d�tour by the bridge, but woe to the
+man who makes a false step. Three women, carrying loads of wood, lost
+their footing during our stay, and were drowned. In its waters we swam
+every evening, and even in midsummer, when the river is low, the
+strength of the current required an expert and powerful swimmer to
+breast it, and it was invariably very cold.
+
+[Illustration: THE VIZIER BRIDGE]
+
+The bridge, built by an old Turkish Vizier many, many years ago, is
+most picturesque, and completely in keeping with the rocky banks and
+the foam-flecked, emerald-green waters rushing beneath. From this
+bridge a man once sprang into the depths below, to show that he was
+not intoxicated. As a matter of fact he was, but he emerged dripping a
+hundred yards lower down, unhurt and at least in his right mind.
+
+There used to be a deep indentation in a stone of the bridge
+parapet--during our stay in the country it has been plastered
+up--which credulous Montenegrins relate to be the cut of a Turkish
+horseman pursuing a fleeing Montenegrin. The story goes that the Turk
+severed the Montenegrin's head from his body, and so violent was the
+stroke that he cut into the stone wall as well.
+
+Again, just before the town, two slabs, standing exactly thirty paces
+apart, mark a similar episode, and the headless man is said to have
+run that distance before falling. This legend--which, furthermore, has
+many eye-witnesses still living in the town who swear to the truth--is
+more capable of belief if one takes into consideration the flight of a
+decapitated fowl in any of our poultry yards.
+
+The road entering Podgorica is very similar in appearance to that
+which leads into Cetinje, only the first impressions are considerably
+wilder and more uncivilised than that of the capital. Hundreds of
+Turks and Albanians are smoking their evening "tchibouque" in the
+streets, and scowl in no friendly manner at the stranger. Some of
+them, namely, the merchant class, are, however, excellent people,
+travelled and educated, as we found out afterwards. The Albanian and
+Turk are the enterprising merchants of Montenegro, and improve on
+acquaintance, which is sometimes necessary.
+
+We had a lonely, solitary feeling as we drove through the crowd of
+loiterers, and were glad to descend at a presentable-looking hostelry.
+How often first impressions are wrong we proved to the full in this
+instance.
+
+Podgorica saw more of us than any other town during our stay, for we
+made it afterwards our headquarters. It would be difficult to forget
+that mountain-bounded valley and the town with its bustling streets of
+picturesque humanity. And then those sunsets! The peaks towering
+behind bathed in crimson, and the intervening hills rising one above
+the other to the furthermost summits like a giant staircase, rich in a
+mysterious purple. As we walked back from our evening swim, over the
+short, springing grass, that scene at sunset never abated its charms
+one whit. And we were always glad on entering the town that no one
+wore plain, ugly European clothes but ourselves. The national
+costumes, so full of colour, blended harmoniously with our feelings,
+and have left behind them an indelible picture.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in
+Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The prison and its
+inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The modern town--The market
+and the armed buyers--The Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin
+methods of doing business.
+
+[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA]
+
+
+If it were not for the dangerous proximity of the Albanian border,
+Podgorica would have been made the capital of Montenegro. It is
+favourably situated for a trade centre, and, owing to this fact, has
+naturally gathered a large population (the largest in Montenegro),
+approaching ten thousand. Lying on a rich and fertile plain, within
+easy reach of the Lake of Scutari, and connected by good roads with
+Cetinje and Niksic, it is within market distance, so to speak, of
+Kolasin and Andrijevica. From these districts, and from the Albanian
+borders, the people flock in crowds, and the Podgorican market is by
+far the most important in the country. But--and it is a big "but"--in
+this case the Albanian frontier is only an hour's walk away, and it
+would never do to risk the persons of the Royal Family and the
+Ministers in a sudden Albanian raid, and troubles and disturbances are
+of everyday occurrence.
+
+We made Podgorica our headquarters during our sojourn in the land of
+the Black Mountain mainly for its central position, but also for the
+opportunity afforded us there for studying Montenegrin life.
+
+It would be difficult to forget our first visit to the town. It was
+Easter Sunday evening when we arrived at the Hotel Europa, and after
+seeing our luggage carried in, started out on a tour of inspection,
+and also to present our letter of introduction to Dr. S., the
+veterinary surgeon of Montenegro. We had not got more than fifty yards
+from the hotel when we were forced to beat a hasty and ignominious
+retreat. At Eastertide, which is one of the biggest feasts in the
+Greek Church, beggars, halt and maim, blind and tattered, pour into
+all the larger towns of the country. They come from Turkey, Albania,
+Bosnia, and Dalmatia--in fact, from everywhere within reach--and make
+a rich harvest, for the Montenegrin opens his heart, his hand, and his
+house at Easter. In our innocence we imagined this to be the normal
+state of affairs in Montenegro, and were greatly cast down.
+
+But our worthy host armed himself with a big stick, and we sallied
+forth again under his guidance. Even then it was no joke, and the
+house of Dr. S. came as a haven of refuge. Anyone who has been in the
+East knows what an amount of persistency and endurance the Oriental
+beggar possesses.
+
+[Illustration: THE RIBNICA]
+
+We were received as old friends and welcomed to the Easter table,
+which was set, as in any other Montenegrin house at this season, for
+anyone and everyone who has the remotest claims of acquaintanceship.
+
+Several men were present, to whom we were at once introduced; amongst
+others a canny Scotchman, the only Britisher living permanently in the
+country. We were a cosmopolitan gathering. There was Dr. S., a
+Roumanian, an Austrian ornithologist, a Scotchman, our innkeeper was a
+Macedonian, and two or three Montenegrins. From that evening date many
+of the pleasant friendships which we made in Montenegro.
+
+The next day our newly-made friends showed us Podgorica. It is divided
+into two distinct parts--the old, or Turkish town, and the new
+Montenegrin town, which dates from the conquest of 1877. The two
+halves are separated by the River Ribnica, which flows in a deep bed
+before the crumbling walls of the Turkish quarter. At one angle of the
+town the Ribnica enters the Moraca, Montenegro's biggest and most
+important river.
+
+Most picturesque is the old Turkish quarter, still surrounded by the
+same bastions and walls which not so long ago defied the Montenegrin
+army. But the houses, as well as the walls, are fast falling to ruin;
+for at the order of the Prince the market has been removed to the
+other side, and, in comparison with the new town, there are few
+inhabitants left. The fortifications still bear witness to the fierce
+struggle which took place before them, and one bastion was breached
+more successfully than ever Montenegrin cannon had done, by lightning,
+during the bombardment. Many of the older inhabitants, as well as the
+walls, show traces of the former conflict, a noseless man being no
+great curiosity.
+
+Not for nothing has the Montenegrin won his fame as one of the
+fiercest fighters in the world. He was never outdone in atrocities by
+his enemies. It was the rule of war (and is now, to a great extent) to
+either behead one's prisoner on the spot, or, if the day had been
+exceptionally heavy, and more heads could not be carried conveniently,
+noses were taken instead. Perhaps the phrase "to count noses"
+originated in these lands. However, it usually ended the same, for the
+noseless man would, as a rule, bleed to death; but some have lived
+through it, and can be met with anywhere in Montenegro or Albania.
+
+Many fierce fights took place in and about Podgorica, and the ghastly
+picture of victorious Montenegrins at the conclusion of an affray,
+sitting in groups, each with a small or large heap of heads and noses
+before him, "counting the bag," has many eye-witnesses still living.
+
+In the Turkish town lies the prison, soon to be the only one in
+Montenegro. A new wing is rapidly nearing completion to accommodate
+the female prisoners, who are at present incarcerated in Cetinje. We
+visited the director that Easter Monday morning, and were received
+unofficially in his quarters. We always had great fun with that man--a
+pompous individual filled to overflowing with the importance of his
+position, and, not unlike men similarly afflicted, most aggressively
+stupid.
+
+As a great favour, and after our united persuasion, he allowed us at
+last to look from a window overlooking the courtyard of the prison. As
+in Cetinje, the prisoners walk without let or hindrance in the
+spacious walled-in courts before their cell doors. Being Easter no man
+was chained, a privilege they owe to the Prince, who always releases
+the prisoners from their fetters during the great festivals; one
+wretched individual, however, we noticed more heavily manacled than
+even a murderer of the worst kind. He was, we were informed, a
+dangerous madman, though, poor devil, he looked harmless enough,
+slouching round and round the yard. The primitive custom of confining
+dangerous lunatics (for the harmless are allowed their full liberty
+outside) in the common prison is soon to be done away with. A large
+lunatic asylum is rapidly nearing completion near Danilovgrad--another
+memorial of Prince Nicolas' improvements.
+
+The prisoners were sleek and fat--those imprisoned for long terms or
+for life bearing witness of the good treatment which they receive at
+the hands of the authorities. One youngish man in particular
+attracted our attention, a merry laughing fellow whose girth had
+reached alarming proportions. He was imprisoned for life, and his
+crime, which sat so lightly upon him, had been a particularly
+atrocious and dastardly murder for plunder--a crime practically
+unknown in Montenegro.
+
+Imprisonment is more real here than in Cetinje. There is none of that
+delightful promenading up and down before the prison walls, hours
+pleasantly whiled away with a friendly visitor from afar over a pint
+of wine. The only glimpse of the outside world that these prisoners
+obtain is when a few of them fetch water daily from a well outside the
+walls.
+
+As we gazed upon the strange scene from the window above, of prisoners
+and warders amicably chatting together, others squatting in groups
+over a harmless game, a horrible voice disturbed the serenity of the
+picture. Then at a closely barred window a face appeared, with matted
+hair and long unkempt beard. It was the face of a madman; with
+terrible curses he filled the air, and we looked inquiringly at our
+cicerone.
+
+"That man is a political offender," came the answer. "For fifteen
+years he has waited his trial, and now he has become hopelessly
+insane. Many years ago he endeavoured to stir up a revolution against
+the Prince, and fled to Vienna, where he carried on his treasonable
+propaganda. But he was enticed back, and thrown into solitary
+confinement such as those who are traitors to their Prince receive.
+For an hour every day these prisoners are allowed to walk in the yard,
+but this man from the first refused to avail himself of the privilege,
+and now he has become what you see."
+
+"Will he never regain his freedom?" we asked.
+
+A shrug of the shoulders was all that our guide vouchsafed, and with
+that awful voice ringing in our ears we were glad to turn away.
+
+Two mosques still exist, and are in use, for the Turkish population is
+fairly large, though owing to recent events rapidly diminishing, but
+the Prince does everything in his power to cultivate a friendly
+feeling with the Mahometans. His country is the asylum for the
+persecuted Turk as well as the fugitive from justice, and, if his
+crime is political, he will be warmly welcomed.
+
+But, Woman again has upset the best of intentions, and within a year
+four elopements of Turkish girls from their homes with Montenegrins
+have taken place in Podgorica. These girls have been baptised and
+married to their Christian lovers. A worse insult to the Mahometan
+faith does not exist. But of this more anon.
+
+The modern town is painfully plain and uninteresting. Montenegrins
+have no knowledge or love of architecture. Each house is built
+solidly of stone, square and undecorated. Even the palaces of the
+Royal Family are of puritanical simplicity externally.
+
+There are the law courts, post and telegraph offices, and
+police-station all in one, a school, and a market-place, with a very
+ugly memorial to the fallen Montenegrins in the last war. Otherwise,
+the town is laid out with broad streets, all planted with trees,
+exactly like a South African township.
+
+Building plots are free, the only obligation to the owner being that
+he must run up the outside walls of the house at once. The roof and
+internal work can be completed at leisure. A large part of the town
+consists of mere shells of houses, the owners waiting for the means of
+completion.
+
+Some little distance from the town, across the Moraca, is the Prince's
+palace of Krusevac, which he occasionally visits. It stands quite
+alone on a slight eminence.
+
+The view round Podgorica is one of the most fascinating features of
+the place. It is one of those perfect views which never tire, and
+always present some new beauty, and the armed rough men in their
+brightly coloured and novel costumes are in complete unison with the
+picture. These national costumes seem so absolutely fitting to
+Montenegro that the otherwise plain and uninteresting buildings of
+the town are turned merely into a background for the ever-moving
+stream of colour. The Turkish bazaars with their gaudy wares hung out
+into the street, the red-jacketed Montenegrin, the Turk in pure white,
+the Scutarines in their distinct and original costume, and the
+Albanians who flock in hundreds to the market in coarse white serge,
+heavily bordered with black braiding, rifles over their shoulders and
+a bandolier round their waists, make a never-ending picture. We never
+wearied of wandering about the streets on market days. Then the town
+is filled to overflowing with a multi-coloured crowd, and every man
+from a distance brings his rifle.
+
+How odd it looked at first to see an Albanian with perhaps a
+shilling's-worth of field produce spread out before him, and at his
+side a rifle loaded and cocked; or, again, a Montenegrin boy of
+perhaps fourteen, with his rifle across his knee! To keep order in
+this formidably armed crowd of men, many animated with the fiercest
+racial and religious hatred of each other, are some dozen Montenegrin
+gendarmes, armed, as is every Montenegrin, with but a heavy revolver.
+
+Deadly enemies meet on the market-place, men standing in blood feud
+with one another, and speak, often expressing a fervent prayer soon to
+be able to put a bullet into the other at the first opportunity,
+but--outside the town. Podgorica is mutually held as neutral
+territory, and is very rarely violated. This is strange where men fear
+not death.
+
+But, outside, perhaps but half an hour from the outskirts of the town,
+these men will meet and shoot and kill; for murder, or sudden death,
+to use their euphemistic way of looking at matters, is by no means
+uncommon.
+
+There is a great tract of land about an hour's ride from Podgorica
+characteristically called the "Crna Zemlja" or Black Earth. It is
+neutral, lying between Montenegro and Albania, and the man who sets
+his foot on it carries his life in his hands. Men who know, say that
+every inch is soaked in blood. It is overlooked by some small hills
+from Albania, and is covered with long pampas grass, affording good
+cover for a man, and they shoot there for love of killing.
+
+But to return to Eastertide.
+
+It is a good time to visit Montenegro for first impressions. The
+Montenegrin outdoes himself in open-handed hospitality; every house is
+open, and everyone visits his neighbour. The best chamber in the
+house, as often as not the only living-room among the poorer classes,
+is set out with all the good things the owner possesses. On the table
+stand meat, eggs, bread, wine, and spirits; and it is a grievous
+insult to leave that room without tasting, and tasting liberally, of
+all. This lasts three days, and it is more than enough.
+
+And we were particularly honoured, being Englishmen and strangers: one
+might say we were painfully honoured. What quantities we were forced
+to eat and drink! At one house, that of a poor man, who lived with his
+wife in a tiny room, we were presented with a bottle of Munich beer,
+his greatest treasure, given him once by a friend who had travelled.
+He doubtless considered it a luxury of a priceless kind, and it cut us
+to the heart to drink that man's beer. But we had to; he took no
+denial, barely tasting it himself.
+
+We might have stood it fairly well were it not for those eggs,
+hard-boiled Easter eggs, the shells coloured red or blue. This
+institution is a positive torture to the unfortunate digestion, which
+suffers untold torments at Eastertide.
+
+There is a game played with these hard-boiled eggs which reminds one
+forcibly of schooldays. Two men each select an egg, and one, holding
+his egg firmly, allows the other to endeavour to crack it, only the
+pointed ends being used.
+
+But this harmless if childish custom once led to a vendetta. A man
+once cracked such an enormous quantity of eggs, that in the evening he
+was challenged to show his marvellous egg, which he persistently
+refused to do. This led to words and words to revolvers, and the man
+was shot. Then the egg was found to be a clever imitation in stone.
+
+Though Podgorica is the trading centre of Montenegro, business is not
+carried on in the same brisk way as in other lands.
+
+We once wished to send a parcel of feathers home, and went accordingly
+to the post office. It was towards evening then, and we were informed
+that the postmaster was "not at home," and were asked to come next
+day. The following morning we again visited the post office, when the
+contents were carefully noted, and long lists filled out which took
+roughly about half an hour; at the end of which time a head was thrust
+out of the window, asking us to call in about an hour and pay. This
+was because no post-office clerk is allowed to receive money; he is
+strangely enough not always honest, and the postmaster was again out.
+At the end of the hour we returned and paid.
+
+Another time I tendered a gulden in payment of a telegram, and had to
+wait a quarter of an hour while a boy was sent into the town to obtain
+change.
+
+In matters of business it is well to possess one's soul in patience. A
+more unbusinesslike set of people is hard to be found, yet in driving
+a bargain they are remarkably shrewd, to put it kindly.
+
+Even in such trivial matters as purchasing a hen no indecent hurry is
+shown. Such a transaction may take days. For instance, you wish to buy
+a hen, and signify the same to a man, and he will say--
+
+"I have a hen which I can sell thee, but it will break my heart. Such
+a hen, and such eggs! I feel I cannot part with her."
+
+"Very well," you say; "don't make yourself miserable; I'll buy one
+somewhere else."
+
+"But give me till to-morrow. It is too sudden."
+
+And he goes away. If you are not in a hurry, it does not matter and
+you wait. It is amusing.
+
+Next day he will come again and say that he has another hen nearly as
+good as the first, but, as he loves you and respects you, he will part
+with his beloved hen at a consideration, and names a price far beyond
+its worth. You refuse, and state your price for the _good_ hen, the
+ordinary market price, which he indignantly refuses and departs. In a
+few hours he will come again, bringing a hen which, almost with tears,
+he tells you is _the_ hen--his beloved hen.
+
+"Take her," he says, "as a present."
+
+Whereupon you press upon him the market price, which of course he
+takes, and the matter is finished.
+
+Such little episodes are trying at first. The Montenegrin loves
+money--it is his curse, or rather the curse of every country on the
+brink of civilisation--but he also loves to play the gentleman, who
+hates sordid money transactions. He will often make you a present and
+afterwards send in an extortionate bill.
+
+But, usually, you make him a monetary present _at once_, which he
+takes with thanks, at your own price.
+
+If it were not for money, what an ideal race the Montenegrins would
+be! But then that is the same with a good many people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and heroism--His part in Montenegrin
+history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The death
+dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The
+hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuz--A typical country inn and a
+meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea.
+
+
+During our repeated sojourns in Podgorica we made several excursions
+to places of interest in the neighbourhood, chief amongst which was a
+visit to Medun, Voivoda Marko Drekalovic's grave.
+
+Medun lies in the heart of the mountains, about four hours' ride from
+Podgorica, and is the capital (if one can apply such a high-sounding
+name to a ruined fortress and two or three houses) of the Kuc. The Kuc
+is a large province inhabited by one of the most warlike tribes of
+Montenegro, and only recently came under its rule, though their
+sympathies were never with their Turkish rulers. The fact that it
+borders on Albania is significant, and accounts for its fighting
+qualities.
+
+Voivoda Marko was largely instrumental in bringing about the last war
+with Turkey, which was so successful to Montenegro, when the Kuc,
+Podgorica, Niksic, the entire provinces of East Montenegro, the Brda,
+and the sea-coast from Antivari to Dulcigno were won and confirmed to
+Montenegro.
+
+The famous battle of Fundina was won by Marko and his tribe alone
+against an overwhelming Turkish army before war had been officially
+declared with Montenegro.
+
+Beginning life as a shepherd boy, Marko ended his days as Voivoda (or
+Duke), and his name is famed in many a song and beloved by the
+Montenegrins as one of their greatest heroes. Many were the stories of
+his reckless bravery, which one of his relations told us. Before he
+had reached the age of twenty he had killed many Turks in single
+encounter, and was in consequence outlawed. He lived for some years in
+the mountain fastnesses of his land, and together with a handful of
+adventurers, who had cast in their lot with his, made descent after
+descent on any bands of Turkish soldiers that happened to pass through
+his domain. His fame soon reached the ears of Prince Nicolas, who sent
+for him and placed him for some years in his bodyguard--that _corps
+d'�lite_ of the Montenegrins.
+
+At the age of twenty-five he returned home and harassed the Turks to
+such an extent that he could not show himself openly by daylight. Like
+another and more famous outlaw in the days of the kings of Israel, all
+those that were bitter of soul came down unto him, and he became
+captain over them. By night he descended upon the Turks wherever he
+could find them, and made great slaughter among them. The Governor of
+Podgorica, then Turkish, Yussuf Mucic by name, offered a large sum of
+money for his head, but no one could be found willing to meet that
+terrible man whom legend and story had endowed with supernatural
+powers. Finally, a criminal consented to attempt the deed on the
+promise of his liberty, and this led to one of the most incredible
+episodes in Marko's life. The criminal lay in wait for him on a lonely
+part of the road near Rijeka, and as Marko was passing along he
+stepped suddenly on to the road pistol in hand. Marko in no way
+attempted defence, but simply transfixed the man with a glance. The
+wretched man in an ecstasy of terror shot himself, so penetrating was
+the glance which the Voivoda had given him. So runs the story. Suffice
+it to remark that Marko arrived safe and sound the same evening in
+Cetinje, and a dead criminal was found on the next day by the
+roadside. Now Yussuf, the Governor, was himself a soldier of some
+repute, and when he heard of the failure of his messenger he
+boastfully expressed a desire to meet the celebrated Marko in single
+combat. On this challenge being reported to him Marko rode off on a
+half-tamed steed at midday into the heart of Podgorica, and reined up
+before the Pasha's house. In fear and trembling the Turks hastily
+closed their bazaars and houses as that fearful horseman galloped
+through their streets. In a loud voice Marko cried--
+
+"I am here, Yussuf, to answer thy challenge. Wilt thou now come out
+and fight with me?"
+
+But fear filled the heart of the craven Turk, and he sent a woman to
+the window to say that he was away from home. Marko knew this to be a
+lie, and cried so that all should hear him that henceforth the
+challenge was annulled. "I do not fight with cowards," he said, and
+again galloped away unmolested.
+
+Such was the power that superstition had weaved around his person that
+he was commonly believed to be invulnerable, which belief was
+afterwards belied by the fact that he carried two bullets with him to
+the grave.
+
+After this public insult to Yussuf, it was known that he would spare
+no pains to take Marko's life, and a touching episode is told of the
+love which Marko's tribe bore to him. His people were ever ready to
+sacrifice their lives for him, and in this instance it was deemed
+necessary to remove the obnoxious Pasha. Accordingly a cousin of Marko
+journeyed to the Podgorican market with a pistol concealed in a load
+of wood. He lay in wait before Yussuf's house and shot him down as he
+emerged. The Turkish populace literally cut him to pieces--a fate
+which the devoted man well knew would befall him.
+
+This and other events led up to the attack made by the Turkish troops
+on the tribe of Kuc, when, at Fundina, Marko and his small tribe smote
+the Moslems hip and thigh. The rest is a matter of history. He had
+died but a few months before our visit, and by his last wish was
+buried in the little fortress of Medun, which many years ago he had
+stormed at the head of a handful of men under circumstances of great
+bravery.
+
+The ride thither gave us our first taste of the mountains. Rough,
+stony paths through rocky ravines, sometimes skirting deep precipices,
+and all round the intensely wild and magnificent mountains, led us to
+the great gorge where Medun is situated. Perched on a seemingly
+inaccessible crag, stands the famous ruined fortress, and at its foot
+Marko's house.
+
+We were made welcome by his widow, a regal woman of middle age, and
+still strikingly handsome. Her dead husband was not only a great hero,
+but a poet and historian, and one of the most remarkable features of
+his life was that, at the age of forty, he taught himself to write,
+and made his name famous as well in the Serb literary world. He had
+always treated her as his companion, and not as the average
+Montenegrin treats a woman--as a being of inferior quality and a
+better class of servant. Marko had a wonderful character; a great
+athlete, perfect rifle-shot, and a military warrior and leader of men,
+he brought home during his campaigns over one hundred Turkish heads;
+but he was also a refined gentleman, a true poet, and merciful to his
+enemies. He was a notable exception in the matter of prisoners--he
+always let them go unharmed, sometimes escorting them himself to a
+place of safety.
+
+Our visit gave much gratification to his widow, who was pleased that
+strangers from such a distant land should wish to visit her husband's
+grave, and she was hospitality itself.
+
+After a rest and food in her house, she conducted us herself up the
+steep winding path to the grave. We came abruptly upon a small plateau
+in front of a tiny chapel. The scene was striking in the extreme.
+There was the grave, with a rough pile of stones at the head, on which
+were placed the dead man's "handjar," revolver and sword, and many
+wreaths. Two lighted candles were flickering in the wind, and in a
+semicircle stood a group of rough, fully-armed mountaineers, the
+retainers of the Voivoda. It was stormy, and great gusts of wind and
+rain dashed round the rocky fortress, and in the distance a rugged
+pile of mountain peaks towered up into the descending mist.
+
+The widow left us, and, kneeling at the grave, quietly kissed the cold
+stones, praying for a few moments in deep silence. Not a man spoke or
+moved as we stood with bared heads and waited. Slowly rising, she came
+to us and led us into the chapel, a bare shell, not even furnished
+with an altar, and with the original earthen floor.
+
+"My beloved husband wished to be buried in here," said the widow, "but
+it was not allowed. The Prince wished him to be buried in Podgorica,
+as he was never courtier and was so beloved and honoured by his
+people--more than the Prince himself. But my husband called me to his
+side, and with his last breath made me swear to bury him in this
+chapel, or at least in front of it. And when the order came that he
+should be buried below, I swore to shoot myself on his grave, and the
+men of Kuc swore to take his body up here, even if they had to fight
+every inch of the way. So it was allowed that he should be buried
+here, but we shall bury him in the chapel, for that I promised him as
+he died."
+
+And she took my hand solemnly in hers, illustrating her oath to the
+dying man, and I shivered in that gloomy chamber as her impassioned
+voice echoed in its arches.
+
+Suddenly a wailing of women broke upon the utter silence which ensued,
+and nearer and nearer came that weird singing as it approached the
+summit. The women were chanting Marko's death dirge. At last, as they
+passed the little window, we went outside and saw four women,
+dishevelled and weeping, approach the grave, kneeling on one side. The
+widow left us again and knelt alone opposite.
+
+One woman only sang at a time, a series of extempore verses telling of
+the life and deeds of the hero--his accomplishments and goodness--in
+the poetical language of this wild people.
+
+"Oh, thou grey falcon, who was so mighty a hunter as thou?"
+
+"Who indeed shall now wield thy bloodstained sword?"
+
+"Oh, thou wolf, who is worthy to take thy place as our ruler and
+father?"
+
+And the others beat their breasts and tore their hair, wailing in a
+wild unison, until the singer was exhausted and then another began.
+
+Here and there a deep sob broke from a man, but otherwise the ring of
+men with bowed heads remained in dead silence and immovable as the
+rocks around them.
+
+It was one of the most impressive scenes it has been our fortune to
+witness, but we were glad when the widow rose and conducted us back to
+the house. Some letters and poems of the Voivoda were shown to us, and
+one of the letters to a friend then present in the room was read
+aloud. The great rough Montenegrin was so touched at hearing the words
+of his master and lord, that he turned away his head and sobbed. All
+this time the women ceased not with their wild lamentations, and even
+after we took our leave and started on our rough ride home in
+pouring rain, that death dirge followed us, echoing in the ravines
+and mountains.
+
+[Illustration: THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN]
+
+Since then we have often heard the death dirge sung in Montenegro.
+Sometimes in a house in passing; again, an old woman trudging to
+market will sing the death dirge of a relation, perhaps dead many
+years. But we never heard those piercing, wailing notes without having
+the picture of Medun recalled vividly to our memory.
+
+When a man dies he is laid out in the sitting-room, and all the
+friends and relations are summoned. Then the men enter the room singly
+and approach the corpse. Tearing open their shirts they beat
+themselves with their fists on their naked breasts, often tearing the
+flesh with their nails, and give vent to ear-piercing wails. Each
+new-comer strives to outdo his predecessor in excesses, and horrible
+scenes ensue. But the Prince discountenances this custom, and it is
+slowly dying out, but only in the upper classes.
+
+We often took our rifles and went out into the country for a little
+target practice, and always succeeded in attracting a group of
+spectators from adjacent villages or huts. Towards Albania we were
+requested not to go for shooting, as the noise of rifle-shots is apt
+to mislead the surrounding villagers. Even when shooting in other
+directions, we were carefully warned not to fire rapidly, but to shoot
+slowly and deliberately, as at target practice.
+
+Rapid firing is "the alarm," and would mobilise a brigade of infantry
+within an hour or two.
+
+On one occasion we were shooting at a somewhat difficult object about
+one hundred and fifty yards away. We were trying to hit it, standing,
+and had not succeeded. A group of some twenty men had collected, and
+they soon began to make facetious remarks. One offered to bring the
+target nearer. Another said he would stand target for a few shots--we
+shouldn't hit him. So we gave one or two of them our rifles and told
+them to hit it. Immediately they selected stones as rests, and lay
+down for their shot.
+
+"Ah," said we, "we can do that; shoot as we do, standing, and without
+a rest."
+
+"That," they said, "is not shooting--who shoots like that in war?"
+
+But we were inexorable, and needless to say they failed to hit
+anywhere near.
+
+The Montenegrins are good shots enough, if they can take long and
+deliberate aim, steadying their rifles on walls or rocks, but
+otherwise they are miserable marksmen.
+
+Quite close to Podgorica there lives a hermit, a wonderful man who has
+hewn out of the living rock a tiny chapel, a store-room, and a passage
+leading to the chapel. He has only just completed it, and we inscribed
+our names in his new book as his first visitors.
+
+[Illustration: VOIVODA MARKO]
+
+[Illustration: SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL]
+
+The hermit, a priest of most refined manners and appearance, named
+Simeon Popovic, was most delighted at our visit. He spoke Russian and
+French fluently; his story is quite a little romance.
+
+Before he took Orders he had been a soldier, and was a rich man. It
+was while he was absent on a campaign that his wife eloped and his
+relations robbed him of all his money. He returned home to find
+himself wifeless, dishonoured, and a beggar. Then he became a priest,
+and a vision appeared to him, showing him Daibabe, where he now lives,
+commanding him to go and build a church. He refused the offer of a
+rich priorship and came to this place, possessed of no means whatever
+wherewith to commence his life's work. Unable to buy building
+materials, he began to hollow out a church from the rock, without help
+or money of any kind, beyond that given him by the pious but direly
+poor peasants of the neighbourhood. The labour must have been immense,
+but there it stands a monument to man's perseverance and faith.
+
+Simeon is reckoned as a saint by the peasants; they come to him from
+all parts of the country, bringing their sick, and many cures are said
+to have been effected there. He is a vegetarian, and subsists solely
+on the products of his little garden.
+
+Spuz lies on the River Zeta, and must be reached by a bridge. It is
+always safer to dismount when crossing a Montenegrin bridge, off the
+main roads. This was no exception, but the scenery was delightful.
+Rising immediately at the back of the village is a steep hill crowned
+by a mighty fortress. It was held formerly by the Turks, and the
+peasants say that it was built by them; but the architecture is
+distinctly Venetian and an exact counterpart of many fortresses in
+Dalmatia.
+
+It is strange, however, for there are no records that the Venetians
+ever came further inland than Scutari.
+
+The inn at Spuz, where we dined, was as other country inns (or krcma,
+or han, as they are locally termed from the Turkish): earthen floor, a
+bench, a few primitive stools and beds in the only reception-room. The
+table is invariably rickety, so are the stools; but a tablecloth,
+knives and forks are always mysteriously produced for guests even in
+the most out-of-the-way places.
+
+While our repast was being prepared we had a revolver shooting
+competition outside the door, to which the whole village flocked. One
+of the men made a very fine shot from his saddle at a tree-stump in
+the river, about two hundred and fifty yards away, and _hit_ within a
+few feet. It proved the accuracy and carrying distance of the
+Montenegrin revolver.
+
+[Illustration: SPUZ]
+
+After our meal, consisting of raw ham, eggs (oh, those everlasting
+eggs!), and a peculiar and nondescript kind of meat, about which we
+asked no questions, the village captain called on us and bore us off
+to his house for coffee.
+
+This man, a Turkish renegade, was one of the most interesting men whom
+we met. He was a marvellous talker--in fact, he never stopped during
+our visit. How the subject came up has passed my memory, but suddenly
+he rushed out of the room and brought back a handful of little medals.
+
+"Look," he said, "each medal represents a human life, a head. We have
+these given us for every head we bring back in war. Do you think I am
+proud of them, and there are more than fifty? No, I weep when I see
+them. When I had seized my foe by his hair preparatory to cutting off
+his head, a vision of his mother, his wife, and his sisters appeared
+before me, and I could have wept as I struck off his head. Why should
+I kill this man? I asked myself. I know him not, he has done me no
+harm, yet because it is war, arranged by princes and kings, we must
+become murderers. And why should I kill him? because others would
+misconstrue my act of mercy if I did it not, and brand me a coward,
+aye and worse, a traitor. Why should _I_ make that mother childless?
+why must _I_ rob that loving wife of her husband? Why _I_ be the means
+of making those little children fatherless and orphans?"
+
+I confess the picture that he conjured up of solemnly and with
+streaming eyes cutting off his enemies' heads--and he had owned to
+over fifty--as he thought of destitute homes and weeping women and
+children, seemed decidedly tragi-comic; but the old man was earnest
+enough, and was quite unconscious of the grim humour of the situation.
+
+"Why," he went on, excitedly pacing the room, "why do not the German
+Emperor and the King of England fight out their quarrels _alone_? Why
+drag thousands of men from their homes and farms to fight _their_
+quarrels?"
+
+Again the idea of our King fighting a solemn duel, with perhaps
+Maxims, over a question of an island in the Pacific, with the German
+Emperor, while admiring millions looked on and applauded, caused a
+smile which we with difficulty repressed from diplomatic reasons.
+
+He took his scimitar now in his hand.
+
+"Look, too, at the generals," he said excitedly, "directing battles
+from safe places, while hundreds of innocent lives are thrown away in
+an assault which that general has ordered from his place of safety.
+Once," he went on--"I was fighting for the Turks then, and commanded a
+body of soldiers--a general came to me, saying, 'Storm that hill,' and
+I answered, 'No; thou art our leader, lead us to the assault.' And he
+refused, saying, 'How can I direct the battle if I lead this
+attack--who shall take my place if I fall?' And I drew my sword"--and
+here he suited his action to his words--"and said I would kill him if
+he did not take his true position as leader of men and lead us to the
+attack--then I and my men would follow wherever he went. And the
+general, who was a brave man, led us to the assault and fell--but we
+took the hill and the battle was won."
+
+It was strange talk to hear from such a man, little better than a
+savage, yet unlike any of his adopted countrymen. That man in a
+civilised country would have made himself known and even celebrated.
+
+Not far from Podgorica, at the junction of the rivers Moraca and Zeta,
+lie the remains of the once famous Dioclea or Dukla, as it is locally
+called. The town is of Roman origin, and was surrounded by a complete
+moat, which the Romans formed by digging a channel between the rivers.
+It must have been a place of immense strength in the olden days, but
+successive generations of warfare, which raged so pitilessly in this
+district, have levelled it to the ground, and to-day little or nothing
+can be seen from the adjoining roadway. On approaching there is also
+very little to be seen, here and there a wall, and small fragments of
+mosaic floors. Coins and other relics are still found in large
+quantities, and it seems a pity that excavation, which could do so
+much, has been only carried on in a very halting and desultory manner.
+Legend and history relate that the famous Roman Emperor Diocletian was
+born here, and gave his name to the town. The district of Dioclea,
+which was one of the seven confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius
+to repel the attacks of the Avars, is in reality the germ of modern
+Montenegro.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baco, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated
+nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The
+priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica.
+
+
+One market day, walking through the streets of Podgorica, we overheard
+a strange conversation. A Montenegrin Turk was sitting on a stone,
+when two Albanians approached him. Touching his revolver, one of the
+Albanians said--
+
+"Sooner than own the whole of Montenegro, would I empty _this_ into
+thy body."
+
+The Turk, a small man, with slightly grey hair, looked up, and said
+indifferently--
+
+"And thy desire is mine."
+
+So they separated.
+
+Almost immediately an acquaintance joined us, and we asked him the
+meaning.
+
+"That man," said he, "is the famous Achmet Uiko. A terrible man, who
+has killed many men, and at the present moment there is an enormous
+sum of money on his head in Albania."
+
+We then went to him, and asked him to come to our hotel to-morrow, and
+to tell us the story of his life. He consented readily, saying that
+he would be with us at nine next morning, "if," he added
+significantly, "nothing occurred to detain him."
+
+It happened that evening that an Englishman arrived on a short tour
+through the country, believing firmly that everything was as safe and
+as orderly as the average stranger thinks. A Turkish girl had been
+abducted from her home shortly before, and the town was in a state of
+great excitement, as it was the second case within the last few weeks.
+A rising of the Turkish inhabitants was feared nightly, and the house
+where the girl was confined--previous to her marriage with her
+Montenegrin lover--was carefully guarded by a score of armed
+Montenegrins.
+
+We took the Englishman to this house, and as we were showing him the
+men with rifles around the doors and windows, we heard sounds of a
+sharp rifle fire some distance away on the border. Not long afterwards
+a Montenegrin doubled into the town with a report that heavy firing
+had been taking place at the village of Dinos. Nothing further came of
+it, but our countryman went to bed with other ideas of Montenegro.
+
+We awaited Achmet next morning, but at nine he had not arrived, and we
+began to wonder, as the hours went by, if his fate had at last
+overtaken him. But at noon he turned up, as quiet and self-possessed
+as yesterday, and excused himself in the following way. The Albanians
+who had expressed such murderous desires upon him yesterday at the
+market lived in Dinos, and he had spent the night in emptying his
+magazine rifle repeatedly into their village.
+
+"To show these dogs," he concluded, "that they cannot express such
+wishes to me with impunity."
+
+His story, which is given shortly here, was taken down from his lips,
+but it is impossible to reproduce the man's quaint phraseology. He
+spoke in an indifferent way, and detailed all the circumstances in a
+most matter-of-fact manner and without the faintest trace of boasting.
+
+He was born in Podgorica, then Turkish, and at fifteen fought in his
+first battle, killing three men. At seventeen he had a fight in the
+town, and was forced to flee to Scutari, where, shortly afterwards, he
+entered the Turkish service as a gendarme. He took unto himself a
+wife, but finding her faithless, he laid a trap to catch her and her
+lover together, when he killed them both. After this Achmet returned
+to Podgorica, where he was at once seized and imprisoned for his
+original offence, but he soon broke out and fled to the Albanian
+mountains. Here he lived as a robber until things began to get too hot
+for him, and he fled to Bosnia. In Bosnia he was the guest of a Serb,
+who befriended him, and when a Turk seduced his benefactor's wife, he
+killed the Turk to show his gratitude, and again was forced to flee
+the country. He next turned up in Antivari, where he was promptly
+imprisoned, but he overpowered the warder, took his rifle, and again
+escaped.
+
+At this time the town captain of Dulcigno had been murdered, in
+revenge for a deadly insult, by a young Kuc, named Jovan, and Achmet
+was sent for, on the promise of pardon if he would follow Jovan into
+Albania and kill him. This he did, bringing Jovan's head with him as
+evidence. For this he received a large reward, and the Prince of
+Montenegro, having heard of him and his deeds, sent for him, pardoning
+all his previous offences, besides giving him one hundred napoleons.
+
+Achmet now settled down at his present home near Podgorica, but was
+caught by the Turks and imprisoned on a false charge for four months,
+when he was able to prove an alibi.
+
+Achmet fought in many border fights with the Montenegrins against the
+Albanians and distinguished himself greatly. Two Albanians once
+attacked the son of a famous standard-bearer, whose life he saved,
+capturing the assailants alive and bringing them into Podgorica. For
+this act the Prince gave him an old fortress for his home, and where
+he still lives.
+
+Later on Jovan's brother, whom he had killed near Dulcigno, came early
+one morning to Achmet and fired at him; but Achmet caught him, and
+again brought his prisoner alive into the town, where he received ten
+years' imprisonment. These deeds are all the more remarkable as he
+brought his captures alive and delivered them over to justice. It is,
+firstly, not customary to take men alive; secondly, the feat is of
+extreme difficulty, for men fight to a finish in these lands.
+
+Achmet is known to disappear periodically for several weeks, but of
+these affairs he would say nothing. But the most striking and romantic
+episode of this marvellous man's life has yet to be told.
+
+Recently he was caught by his now arch enemies, the Turks, and
+imprisoned in the powerful fortress of Tusi, a few miles from
+Podgorica. Not content with putting on the usual extremely heavy
+chains, they added to their prisoner a second set of fetters. But
+friends smuggled into his possession a file, concealed in a loaf of
+bread. He filed through his chains, and the day previous to his escape
+he noticed a lot of straw bedding lying at the foot of the fortress
+walls. That night he completed the filing of the fetters, broke open
+the cell-door, and rushing through the sleeping soldiers he jumped the
+wall, landing without hurt on the pile of straw bedding below. Though
+fired at and pursued, he escaped unhurt.
+
+We heard many such stories, but the story of Achmet was certainly the
+best, and these men do not lie. As the man took his leave, he gave us
+a pressing invitation to visit his fortress home in the mountains.
+
+"I will slaughter my best lamb," he added, as a special inducement.
+
+There was another highly interesting personality living in Podgorica,
+an ex-Albanian chief and refugee from his country, named Sokol Baco.
+This fine old fellow, standing well over six feet, looked fifty
+instead of his sixty-five years, and had an equally interesting past.
+As a youth he had fought in many battles for the Turks, and was
+eventually selected with five other young men of high standing for the
+personal bodyguard of the Sultan. While on leave, which he was
+spending in his Albanian home, the order came for the disarming of the
+whole of Albania. Sokol's tribe refused, as did most of these warlike
+clans, though Sokol advised obedience. But his clan remained obdurate,
+and he was placed in the awkward predicament of being either
+considered a traitor by his countrymen or by his Sovereign. Sokol
+threw in his lot with his clan, and led them in battle against a
+Turkish force; but though he fought like a lion, the clan were
+defeated, and he was forced to fly. For many years Sokol lived in the
+Albanian mountains, half robber and wholly patriot; but the pursuit
+became too keen, and he came to Podgorica, where he entered the
+service of Prince Nicolas. His new Prince he serves loyally, and is
+highly esteemed in Montenegro, where he will doubtless end his
+days.
+
+[Illustration: ACHMET UIKO]
+
+[Illustration: SOKOL BACO]
+
+While still comparatively new to the country, we once went for a
+week's shooting to the Lake of Scutari. Water-fowl abound there in
+marvellous numbers, consisting chiefly of crane, heron, thousands of
+duck, and a fair number of pelicans.
+
+We had selected the island of Vranjina for our headquarters, known in
+history as the site of a famous treaty signed there between the
+Montenegrins and Venetians in the first half of the fifteenth century.
+It lies at the north or Montenegrin end of the lake.
+
+As we were given to understand that we could drive to the lake, or at
+least to the River Moraca, and thence take boat to the island, we
+loaded our carriage with ample luggage. With our guide's usual and
+admirable mismanagement, we were landed after a two hours' drive on
+the banks of the Moraca, unable to get further without the carriage
+toppling down a steep bank into the rapid river. The driver
+unceremoniously bundled our traps on to the ground and drove happily
+off. The only person in sight was a diminutive girl, whom the guide
+promptly impressed into our service, and an appalling load was heaped
+upon her. Then a small boy appeared, and so we were able to make
+another start. The day was exceedingly hot, but we got some shooting
+to make up for it. We crossed the river in a crazy ferry, found some
+men, and later on a boat, and reached the famous village of Zabljak
+about one o'clock. The village is still overlooked by a formidable
+fortress, but in the rude collection of huts it was hard to see the
+ancient capital of Montenegro, the home of the famous Black Prince
+dynasty.
+
+One of the most wretched inns that it was our lot to find in
+Montenegro received us and our baggage. The village of course turned
+out to inspect us, and watched us eat our meal with interest. It was
+of the usual kind, consisting of eggs, raw ham, eggs, and dessert of
+_more_ hard-boiled eggs, washed down with a remarkably sour wine.
+
+After this repast we retired for a short nap into the room beyond. P.
+was tired and got on one bed, but I, displaying more caution, lifted
+the pillow before I trusted myself to the arms of Morpheus. My
+fore-sight was rewarded better than I deserved, and I had P. off his
+bed in the twinkling of an eye. As an explanation which his
+threatening attitude demanded at once, I silently lifted his pillow.
+It likewise teemed with life, and we postponed our post-prandial
+slumbers till a more fitting occasion.
+
+At the foot of the village the Moraca flowed past, now a formidable
+and swiftly running river. We were amused to see several oxen driven
+into it, and swim serenely to the opposite bank.
+
+Only one small canoe could be found for us, which would ordinarily
+hold one man besides the two paddlers, with comfort. Into it were
+crowded three men and a quantity of baggage. In addition, it leaked,
+and periodically we were turned out on to a muddy and marshy bank
+while the canoe was bailed out.
+
+This end of the lake is very curious, a series of natural canals run
+in all directions through vast swamps which only afford foothold in
+the height of summer. The thrifty peasants utilise the dry season to
+plant fields of maize, for the scorching sun dries these swamps in a
+very short space of time. In the winter or early spring, they are
+nearly or quite under water. As the lake is reached, small islands of
+dense willow trees grow out of the water, and in these islands are
+vast colonies of waterfowl. The effect is decidedly pretty, but very
+irritating to the sportsman, as the birds hide in the centre, and it
+is nearly impossible to force one's way in, even by wading.
+
+We reached our destination, a little chapel with a house for the
+priest adjoining it, locally termed a "manastir," built on a rather
+high and conical hill on the south end of the island of Vranjina. The
+view from the chapel, as we afterwards found, was superb. The whole
+lake spreads out in its vast expanse. Scutari, or rather the hill
+behind which it lies, can be seen dimly in the distance. To the right,
+the Lovcen and the Rumija rear their lofty heads, and divide the lake
+from the Adria beyond. Away to the left the rugged snow-clad Albanian
+Alps stretch as far as the eye can see, piling themselves up in a wild
+and grand confusion. Several green submerged willow islands lay at our
+feet, round which crowds of snow-white cranes were circling. Such was
+our view as we reached the plateau in front of the chapel that
+evening, tired, hungry, and irritated, but still appreciative.
+
+The priest, or "pop," clad in the national costume, as indeed are all
+the country clergy, and only distinguishable from his wild-looking
+parishioners by his uncut hair and beard (the Greek Church do not
+allow their ministers to cut their hair or beards), met us in a
+friendly manner, but absolutely refused to take us in at first. He
+said he had absolutely nothing in the house but a little goat's
+cheese, and no beds. However, we were desperate; to go to the village
+meant another hour's cramp in the canoe, and perhaps no better
+accommodation than here. Here we would stay, and starve.
+
+By dint of much persuasion, the priest produced a mattress, and a man
+was sent down to the village to procure anything that he could find,
+and so we stayed in the monastery a week, and really enjoyed
+ourselves. We used to go out shooting at daybreak in canoes with two
+paddles apiece, and again in the evening, for the heat was
+overpowering about midday.
+
+[Illustration: THE POP OF VRANJINA]
+
+[Illustration: AN ALBANIAN GIRL]
+
+The method of fishing here is distinctly interesting. A large number
+are required to work the net, but they make enormous hauls. The
+procedure is as follows: One large boat is anchored near the shore and
+made fast to trees, and a huge net is taken out and spread in a
+circle, the ends being kept in the stationary boat. Two men, naked,
+stand a few feet from the boat in the water, keeping the sides of the
+net down and preventing the escape of fish as the circle is gradually
+narrowed by the men in the boat slowly pulling it in. The last bit
+requires their united efforts, for it is full of fish, some of
+considerable size. At the conclusion of the "haul" one of the men
+chose two of the largest fish and threw them into my canoe as a
+present; as thanks I lent my tobacco-tin, which they gratefully
+emptied.
+
+Montenegrins carry tobacco in a tin and roll their own cigarettes; no
+other form of smoking is known amongst them, except the tchibouque by
+some of the older men, a relic of Turkish times. The tobacco is
+excellent, being often equal to the best Turkish, and ridiculously
+cheap.
+
+We owe these worthy fisherfolk thanks for having given us one of the
+finest moonlight effects that it has ever been our lot to witness. We
+were returning home late one evening in our canoes, and as we rounded
+a corner of the island we came suddenly on their encampment. The men
+in their ragged but artistic costumes were sitting round numerous
+camp-fires cooking their evening meal on the bank, which sloped gently
+upwards, an old ruined fortress or "kula" forming a background.
+
+As we gazed the moon came slowly over the brow of the intervening
+hill, illuminating the scene with its soft and silvery radiance,
+blending fantastically with the ruddy flames of the fires.
+Cooking-pots steamed and bubbled, and one group of men broke into an
+old Montenegrin fighting song, the water of the vast lake sparkled and
+danced in the distance, and we felt that only we and this rough group
+of fishermen were alive in the world.
+
+It was an idyllic life that we led during our stay at Vranjina, though
+every comfort known to civilisation was lacking. We lived as did the
+hardy fishermen of the island, and a hard life it proved to be. The
+heat, however, was something tremendous, quite precluding any exertion
+from ten in the morning till the late afternoon. We had even in the
+early morning to use the greatest care to keep our necks and arms
+covered from the scorching rays of the sun, for bad blisters and burns
+were the sure reward of carelessness. The concussion of rapid shooting
+combined with the heat often brought on headaches so violent that to
+fire another cartridge was exquisite torture. One thing we did not
+suffer from, and that was loneliness.
+
+The news of our visit spread to all the neighbouring villages, and we
+had a constant stream of visitors. Our swim, which we took after our
+early morning shoot in a delightfully cool spot, where a spring
+bubbled into the lake, was invariably witnessed by a group of
+fishermen, and very much amused they were too over our hair-brushes,
+soap, and other toilet articles.
+
+They sometimes ascribed powers of healing to us, and were evidently
+quite distressed when we endeavoured to impress upon them our entire
+ignorance of medicine. Once a man insisted on baring his leg and
+showing me a horrible wound which would not heal.
+
+Another time the school was marched out from the village of Vranjina,
+probably to have an object-lesson in geography. Doubtless the boys,
+after having seen real live Englishmen, would henceforth display an
+intelligent interest in the position of the British Isles. They came
+and spent a morning with us, and the young teacher, who spoke good
+Italian, asked us many questions, such as a young child asks his
+father, and equally difficult at times to answer.
+
+Our messing arrangements were of the simplest, raw ham and eggs
+forming the staple food. We bought a lamb once, but it only lasted one
+meal, as everyone developed an extraordinary appetite--the parson,
+Lazo our servant, and all the men in the vicinity.
+
+When we left we had the blessing of our worthy priest and fervent
+invitations to return again soon from some of the fishermen. One of
+the men took a great fancy to us, urging us to come to his house in
+Vranjina then and there, and "we would," he said, "drink gallons of
+wine," going on next day. "At any rate," he said, as we gently
+refused, "let us have a big drink together when ye come again."
+
+We arranged our return to Podgorica ourselves, and got back within
+five hours, shooting a fine pelican on the way, which was the last
+shot that we fired on the Lake of Scutari.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+Stephan our servant--Virpazar--The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass--Antivari and Prstan--The beauty of the bay--We are delayed by
+contrary winds--We are rowed to Dulcigno--We make the acquaintance of
+Marko Ivankovic--A story concerning him--We shoot together--An episode
+on a lake--Vaccination--The Turkish inhabitants.
+
+
+For our journey to the sea-coast towns of Antivari (Bar) and Dulcigno
+(Ulcinj) we deemed it advisable to take a servant with us, and our
+choice fell on Stephan, a Hungarian by birth, but a ten years' sojourn
+in the Land of the Black Mountain had completely Montenegrinised him,
+if we may coin a word. As he was our constant companion for several
+months, it would be well to describe him.
+
+Every statement that Stephan made had to be liberally discounted--this
+we found out afterwards--for he was a born liar, and not a skilful one
+at that. He had one marvellous story about a large sum of money lying
+in his name in a bank in Hungary, which he must fetch in person, but
+he could never save enough money to make the journey. This was an
+obvious falsehood. But the story of his coming to Montenegro seemed
+true. He was a sergeant of an Austrian infantry regiment, and had
+attempted to cut down his superior officer in a fit of rage, severing
+his ear with a sabre. He fled to the Montenegrin border, which was
+quite close to his garrison, and has been in Montenegro ever since,
+wearing the national costume and married to a girl of the country.
+Stephan was certainly a most violent-tempered man, but he was often
+entertaining, full of fun, a decent cook, and could sing a host of odd
+songs and snatches picked up in Austrian garrison towns. Otherwise he
+was a thorough Montenegrin, though he considered himself vastly their
+superior. His temper at other times would be vile, but the mastery
+over himself was really great, and after a sharp remonstrance he could
+change his mood completely.
+
+Taking the omnibus of the Anglo-Montenegrin Trading Company, rudely
+dubbed "the Hearse," to Plavnica, the station for Podgorica on the
+Lake of Scutari, we transferred our luggage to a huge barge, or
+"londra," and were slowly punted out on to the lake through one of
+those extraordinary canals which intersect the marshy land at this end
+of the lake. There the good ship _Danitza_, owned by the same company,
+awaited us, and conveyed us to Virpazar, past our island of Vranjina
+and its little chapel.
+
+[Illustration: VIRPAZAR]
+
+Virpazar is the scene of the Montenegrin Vespers in 1702, and one of
+the richest villages in the district. Prettily situated up a long
+estuary of the lake, it is nothing but a collection of about twenty
+small houses, with arched ground floors, the people living on the
+first floor. The village is frequently flooded in the winter.
+
+The importance of this village lies in the fact that it is the
+connecting link--and a very bad one at that--between the rest of
+Montenegro and the sea. But no road connects it with the mainland, and
+travellers from Cetinje or Podgorica must take the steamer from either
+Rijeka or Plavnica to Virpazar, and from thence a good road leads over
+the Sutormann Pass to Antivari. A road which is being built between
+Virpazar and Rijeka will supply a long-felt want. At present, when the
+Prince or Crown Prince wish to visit their favourite residence on the
+sea at Topolica, near Antivari, the horses have to be sent by a
+roundabout mountain path from Rijeka, taking many hours, while the
+Princes take steamer and have a tedious wait in the inn at Virpazar.
+
+To this inn we went--there was no choice about it; it is the only one,
+and, moreover, there is but a single room for guests, serving as
+dining and sleeping apartment. Though we arrived at midday, we had to
+wait till the following day at noon for the postcart--twenty-four
+hours in this very uninteresting hole.
+
+But we hobnobbed with the local grandees, for there is the district
+law court here (the captain and magistrate have their residences in
+the village), and managed to pass the time fairly agreeably. In the
+evening we sat under the trees in front of our humble yet princely
+hostel, and talked of many things to our newly made friends. The frogs
+in the marshes made a terrific noise, almost drowning our
+conversation.
+
+Next morning we entered the post-chaise, in which we had wisely booked
+all the four seats, and made a start on our six hours' drive. What
+would have happened had other travellers arrived is hard to imagine. A
+wait of forty-eight hours till the next post went would have probably
+caused annoyance, and this carriage was literally the only means of
+conveyance on this side of Montenegro. It goes one day and returns the
+next. Fortunately, passengers are extremely rare. The drive was of
+great interest, winding up in a series of sweeping curves between
+magnificent hills. The ridge on our left was the site of a great
+battle in the last war, when a small Montenegrin force dislodged a
+large Turkish army and captured Antivari and the long-coveted sea. The
+danger and recklessness of the feat was apparent from the road, and it
+was evidently not expected by the Turks, for a false step on those
+rocky heights meant certain death.
+
+[Illustration: ANTIVARI ON BAR]
+
+The top of the Sutormann Pass (2,700 feet) was reached in about four
+hours, and now the deep blue Adria was spread out before us, and our
+tortuous descent commenced. Commanding the pass still stands a mighty
+but much-battered fortress, taken by the gallant Montenegrins in
+that memorable battle. But nowhere could the historical old town and
+fortress of Bar, or Antivari, be seen. In fact, not till we were
+within a few hundred yards of the town, was a single house in view. It
+is hidden from sight in a hollow, surrounded by a forest of olive
+trees.
+
+All of a sudden the carriage drew up at a recently built stone house,
+ornamented with the trophies of war. Piles of cannon-balls, old
+cannon, splinters of shells are tastefully arranged on the walls.
+Immediately in front of us stood the once famous fortress of Bar, now
+a shot-riddled and ruined mass of stone, a mere shell of its former
+strength.
+
+Even then the town is hardly apparent, but in a few seconds one enters
+it down a steep and slippery path of well-worn stones. On either side
+are Turkish bazaars, out of which Turkish faces peer at the infidel
+dogs. There is very little of the Montenegrin element apparent. We
+only walked through the town once, as our destination was Prstan, the
+actual seaport of Antivari.
+
+We were somewhat rudely disillusioned. After an hour's drive along a
+flat and ugly road, we espied a collection of some half a dozen
+houses. Two or three of them are large and modern in appearance but
+that was all. Was this, then, Antivari, Montenegro's important seaport
+and the bone of contention with Austria?
+
+Right well has Austria maintained its control of this little port. One
+large house is that of the Austrian Vice-Consul, who lives in solitary
+state, watching everyone who passes through the port. Opposite, on the
+further horn of the bay, lies Spizza, an Austrian military station.
+Antivari is, indeed, but Montenegrin in name.
+
+Right on the shore and in the centre of the large bay stands a white
+house, a short distance from the Austrian frontier, which is Topolica,
+the favourite residence of the Crown Prince. Square, undecorated, and
+uninteresting, it is almost an exact counterpart of the other
+Montenegrin royal residences. Yet its position is superb. From either
+corner of the bay, where the mountains meet the sea, stretches an
+unbroken chain of mountain peaks, rugged and forbidding, but extremely
+picturesque. Witnessed at sunset when the soft lights mellow the sharp
+outlines, and the sombreness of the mountains is tinged with red, the
+fascination which this place holds for this lover of nature, Prince
+Danilo, can be well understood. We spent two days revelling in its
+wild solitariness.
+
+Our hotel was distinctly quaint, but we were very comfortable. Again
+we had but one room for all, but it was clean, and the hostess, an
+Austrian, an excellent cook.
+
+We hoped to have started on our further journeys the following day,
+and found a small sailing vessel anchored in the bay; the captain
+consenting to take us on to Dulcigno. It was an Albanian boat, manned
+by about half a dozen cut-throats, and in spite of warnings we
+arranged to leave next day. Anything would be preferable to a ride of
+eight hours over mountain tracks on mules to Dulcigno; and we were all
+well armed.
+
+But the next day brought contrary winds, and we were forced to spend
+another day in Prstan. That day a large Italian steamer arrived and
+anchored in the bay, to take Prince Nicolas to Italy for the
+christening of his little granddaughter. Shortly before dark he
+arrived, attended by two adjutants, and after speaking a few words to
+the harbour captain, who respectfully kissed his hand, embarked in a
+boat, and was pulled on board the steamer. We were again struck with
+the immense breadth of his figure, clad in a long, grey military
+overcoat, which makes him look much shorter than he really is. He is
+really a typical-looking prince of a race of freeborn mountaineers. As
+he receded from the shore, we drew our revolvers and joined in the
+parting fusillade, shouting "Zivio" as lustily as any of the little
+handful who had awaited him.
+
+The agent of the Austrian Lloyd Steamship Company came to our rescue
+on the following morning, as the Albanian boat made no preparations
+for starting, and offered to take us in his own boat to Dulcigno.
+This we gladly accepted, and about midday started in his large and
+roomy boat, built for sailing or for rowing, and manned by four
+Montenegrin sailors.
+
+The wind failed us most of the way, and our four men propelled us with
+long oars or sweeps which are worked standing up and facing them, a
+method of rowing common in the Adriatic. It is a splendid exercise,
+but like everything else it wants practice, as we speedily found out
+when we took a turn.
+
+Coffee, without which no true Montenegrin can exist, was made _en
+route_, and proved highly acceptable.
+
+Luckily we had taken a supply of food with us, though we had been told
+that we should be in Dulcigno for supper, and this again we devoured
+with ravenous appetites as the long hours wore on. The coast was
+monotonous, a never-varying bank of hills descending to the water's
+edge. Here and there a tiny village could be seen, but otherwise no
+life, and little vegetation.
+
+Not till nine o'clock in the evening did we reach Dulcigno, and the
+impression that the lights in the houses on the hillsides made is not
+easily to be forgotten. It seemed like a colony of spacious and
+luxurious villas on well-wooded slopes. In pitch dark we arrived at a
+quay, and groped our way out of the boat, and were led to the inn.
+Great knockings and shoutings summoned the innkeeper from his early
+slumbers. While waiting in the darkness below, the Turkish muezzins
+ascended the many minarets, and began the evening call to prayer. The
+weird chanting from so many voices (there are seven mosques in
+Dulcigno) in the otherwise utter stillness had a most uncanny effect.
+
+It was a strange arrival.
+
+Our inn was slightly less primitive than the preceding ones. We had a
+tiny bedroom apiece, and there was a room downstairs for eating
+purposes, though we were always able to take our meals outside under
+the trees.
+
+Dulcigno, or Ulcinj, is certainly the prettiest town in Montenegro,
+though it is to all intents and purposes Turkish in appearance. Built
+partly on a hill overlooking the sea, it descends into a small bay
+where the occasional passing steamers anchor. Well wooded and hilly,
+it is really a delightful spot, though the Turkish element may or may
+not detract from its beauty according to personal taste. The irregular
+houses, the mosques with their slender towers, the bazaar, and the
+gaily-dressed if dirty crowds that circulated between the rows of
+shops--gave a distinctly pleasing effect. The heavily-veiled women,
+wearing in addition to the veil a thick cloth cape with a capacious
+hood, amused us greatly, for on meeting us, lest our bold eyes should
+pierce their disguise, they would stop and turn their faces to the
+wall. What these poor creatures suffer from the heat in these
+ponderous cloaks can only be imagined, and Dulcigno is by no means
+cold.
+
+Though the fantastic picture conjured up the night of our arrival by
+the twinkling lights, peeping out of the dark foliage, on the hillside
+was not realised, still the entirely different picture of the reality
+was equally pleasing.
+
+We called the next morning on the harbour captain, an Austrian and
+ex-sea-captain, who received us most kindly and courteously. Through
+him we were at once able to make the acquaintance of one Marko
+Ivankovic, a hunter of great prowess, whom we immediately engaged to
+attend us for the shooting in the neighbourhood.
+
+Now, though we will not go so far as to say that he was the sole
+object of our visit to Dulcigno, still he did certainly influence our
+plans. Once, during our very first stay at Podgorica, we met an
+Austrian ornithologist and sportsman who told us a wonderful
+experience of his at Dulcigno with this very man, Marko Ivankovic. He
+had come to Dulcigno one night by steamer, to spend a few months in
+this paradise for sportsmen, and as he entered a lowly inn, a man of
+almost repellent aspect sat brooding gloomily, evidently lost in a fit
+of abstraction. This man gave no greeting to the new-comer, who sat
+down at the further end of the table and ordered food. Shortly
+afterwards the man rose and silently left the room. An hour later this
+same man reappeared in the doorway, cap in hand, and humbly asked
+permission of the ornithologist to seat himself at the same table. The
+permission was readily given, and the man (it was Marko) came near and
+attempted to kiss L.'s coat. This action signifies the greatest
+humility, and is only accorded to persons of the highest rank. L.
+remonstrated strongly, saying--
+
+"Why dost thou kiss my coat? I am a man like thyself, and no prince.
+What wouldst thou from me?"
+
+"Sir, I see that thou art a hunter (L. had his dogs with him), and I
+would fain be thy servant."
+
+L. wanted a man, and from his conversation he soon gathered that this
+was no inexperienced huntsman, and so they spoke of terms. But Marko
+at first would not hear of anything of the sort, saying he would serve
+for nothing. Naturally L. refused to accept his services gratis, and
+at last an arrangement was made that Marko should first prove his
+capabilities and serve a term of probation. Even then Marko refused to
+take money, but a present of a gun or some article to the value of his
+services at so much a day.
+
+With this plan L. was forced to be content, and two days afterwards
+the expeditions into the neighbouring country were commenced. To tell
+the story in L.'s own words:--[2]
+
+"After we had been together some weeks Marko became gloomy and cast
+down, unlike his usual merry self. It was no easy task to persuade him
+to tell me what was the matter. It appeared that he was in debt, and
+should not the money be paid very shortly, his house and all that was
+his would be seized. Of course I gave him the money, which happened to
+be more than his due up to that day, and he took it as a loan. This
+condition he insisted on, and I laughingly assented."
+
+It was then that we first heard of Achmed Uiko, who told us the story
+of his life in Podgorica. Jovan, of the tribe Kuc, had been publicly
+beaten in Dulcigno at this time, and in revenge had shot the Governor,
+who had ordered this ignominious punishment. Jovan had fled to
+Alessio, in Albania, with a price upon his head, and certain persons
+came to Marko to beg him to follow the assassin and bring back his
+head. Marko was then in L.'s service, and confided his dilemma to his
+master, who told him that if he but harboured such thoughts he was not
+fit to be his servant. Marko then refused, and Achmed Uiko accepted,
+murdering Jovan in a boat while fishing, and the head was subsequently
+displayed in Dulcigno. This is a noteworthy episode, for it led to the
+abolition of corporal punishment and of the barbarous custom of
+displaying heads on poles.
+
+[Footnote 2: This story was published in the _Wide World Magazine_,
+and is reproduced with the Editor's permission.]
+
+To return, however, to the story:--
+
+"After several weeks I made a day's tour with Marko to the Bojana. At
+the mouth of the river, which you know is the outlet of the Lake of
+Scutari, a large island has been formed by a stranded ship which sank
+there, and all the debris, logs, and other rubbish have formed a delta
+of some size upon the wreck. It abounds in game, and thither we
+journeyed one morning early, reaching it some few hours later by a
+small boat in which we ferried ourselves across. During the day a
+great storm sprang up, precluding all chance of returning to the
+mainland that evening. In a hut of boughs we spent a miserable night,
+drenched to the skin by the incessant rain. Not till towards evening
+of the following day could we recross, and it was bright moonlight
+when we commenced our weary tramp, heavily laden and wet, to Dulcigno.
+The neighbourhood is dangerous, both Albanians and Montenegrins shoot
+at sight, and care must always be exercised.
+
+"Perhaps we had covered half the distance, when Marko suddenly and
+without a word of warning threw the bags and other things he was
+carrying to the ground. 'It is a dog's life, nay worse, that I lead
+with thee. My health is ruined, my clothes spoilt, and not a kreutzer
+do I get.'
+
+"I was furious at the man's infamous lie, for he was still several
+guldens to the good, and even more so at the disadvantage he had taken
+over me. Here we were alone in a wild and dangerous district, miles
+from home, and not a human being near.
+
+"'Thou liest, thou ungrateful dog. Thou art an ass without a face.'
+
+"As I said this in my rage--it is a terrible insult to call a man a
+faceless ass--Marko's face was transformed with speechless fury. His
+high cheek-bones and black curly hair always made him unprepossessing,
+for his was a distinctly negro type of face, and now with his lips
+drawn back like a snarling wolf, disclosing his yellow teeth and
+gleaming eyeballs, he looked like a fiend incarnate. I shudder now
+when I recall that moonlit scene.
+
+"His hand dropped like lightning on the butt of his revolver, but in
+the moment I had sprung back a pace and covered him with my gun, which
+I was luckily carrying cocked.
+
+"'Thy hand from the revolver,' I cried, 'or thou art a dead man.'
+Slowly his hand sank to his side. 'Pick up those things at once and
+carry them before me, or as sure as there is a God in heaven I will
+shoot thee like the dog thou art.'
+
+"As if every movement was of the greatest exertion he picked up the
+traps, saying as he did so, 'Thou shalt remember these insults.'
+
+[Illustration: MARKO IVANKOVIC]
+
+[Illustration: THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA]
+
+"'Be still!' I cried, covering him with my gun, 'and now precede me.'
+
+"And in this fashion we returned to my house. He threw the load into a
+corner of the room, and at the door he returned and repeated his
+warning, vanishing in the darkness.
+
+"From this time onwards I shot alone. Try as I would I could get no
+one to come with me, and this I put down to the worthy Marko's
+influence. Thrice I saw him while out shooting, but only once within
+speaking distance. I then called to him 'Marko, I know thou wilt try
+and kill me; but listen, I am married and have a wife and child at
+home. For their sakes I ask thee to shoot at me from the front, and
+thus give me a chance to defend myself.'
+
+"He smiled strangely again, saying, 'Thou wilt remember thy insults,'
+and disappeared.
+
+"I always took cover when I saw him, but nothing happened, and the eve
+of my departure arrived. The steamer left in the early morning, and
+just as dawn was breaking and I was still in bed Marko entered the
+room. He approached my bed, and laid upon the table by my head the sum
+of money I had advanced him to repay his debt. Then he spoke:--
+
+"'I saidst that thou wouldst remember the insults thou hast put upon
+me. Here is thy money, and now listen to my story. Thou hadst scarce
+set foot in Dulcigno when thy death was planned by an enemy, and I
+was hired to do the deed. That was why I would take no wages, for I
+was already well paid; besides, it was thought that thou wouldst then
+certainly engage my services. I was to accidentally shoot thee while
+hunting. What more easy than to stumble and for my gun to explode? But
+when I knew thee, then I could not kill thee thus. I tried to provoke
+thee that night, knowing thee to be a violent-tempered man; I provoked
+thee into insulting me. I hoped thou wouldst have struck me, and then
+it would have been easy. Thou wast very near death at that moment, for
+in spite of thy gun I could have shot thee, but thou hadst grown too
+much into my heart. Even in my rage I was powerless. And now here is
+thy money. I have kept my word, and am an honourable man.'
+
+"I sprang from my bed and stopped him. 'Who was my enemy?' I cried.
+
+"'One who knew thee in Bosnia. This man had hoped that thou wouldst
+visit him, and thy coffee was ready poisoned. When I left thy service
+another man was hired to kill thee, but I followed thee wherever thou
+went. Thus didst thou see me these three times.'
+
+"I knew now who my enemy was. A man exiled by the Austrians for
+treasonable practices whilst I was still an official in Bosnia. Marko
+accompanied me to the ship, but not until I swore on my honour to
+otherwise throw the money into the sea would he accept it, and then
+only that which he had actually earned, not a kreutzer more, for I
+would have willingly made him a present. Thus Marko Ivankovic went out
+of my life, but I shall never forget him."
+
+Such was the story we heard one evening in Podgorica, and which we
+were here able to prove in part. When Marko heard that we were friends
+of his former master, his face lighted up with joy, and he kissed our
+hands. During our stay he was always with us, a devoted attendant and
+servant. Another very interesting phase of his life had been spent in
+the Hercegovina, where he fought as an outlaw for many years against
+the Austrians. He still possesses two mementoes of his adventures in
+that land, one in the form of an officer's undress jacket, technically
+called a "blouse," and the other of a more permanent character,
+namely, a maimed hand. He and his band were surprised one night by
+gendarmes, and a fierce hand-to-hand fight ensued, during which an
+Austrian aimed a cut at Marko with his sword. Marko caught the blow on
+his hand and held the blade fast, but the gendarme drew back the
+weapon sharply and severed all the tendons of his hand. Marko cannot
+now open his hand, but his wounder was sped to the happy
+hunting-grounds there and then, as he modestly relates.
+
+Shooting of the same kind as on the Lake of Scutari is to be found in
+abundance all round Dulcigno. Unfortunately the Bojana and the
+afore-mentioned island at its mouth was closed to us. The evening of
+our arrival two men had been shot there, and it is doubtful, even had
+we insisted on going, whether the authorities would have permitted it.
+It is not good to visit localities just after shooting affrays. In
+this instance the peasants on both sides were excited, and we
+reluctantly gave up the trip to which we had looked forward for some
+time. However, there was plenty left to shoot over, and we had much
+good sport with pelican, duck, and crane.
+
+One rather unpleasant incident occurred during our stay, which very
+nearly ended seriously.
+
+The lakes and swamps over which we shot lay at about an hour and a
+half's walk from the town, and it was necessary to be there by
+daybreak. We had ordered our paddlers to await us one morning at dawn,
+and on our arrival were considerably annoyed to find no one there but
+a boy. After a short wait we started, taking the boy and the larger
+londra, or canoe, Marko and Stephan paddling as well. A longer delay
+would have spoilt our morning, as the fowl disappear long before the
+sun is well up in the heavens. About an hour later we discerned a boat
+paddling furiously towards us, and, coming alongside, the inmates
+proved to be our missing crew. Seizing our canoe, the spokesman
+addressed our boy, abusing him roundly, saying he had stolen his
+canoe, and demanded the paddles peremptorily. The boy looked at us
+helplessly, and naturally refused, for we were in the middle of a
+lake. The man then became livid with rage, rocked our canoe violently,
+threatening to overturn us into the water. Then his hand dropped on
+his revolver, and in his face appeared unmistakably the lust to kill.
+All this passed so quickly that we had listened to the altercation in
+open-mouthed astonishment. The rage and violence took us utterly by
+surprise, for nothing of the kind had ever happened to us before from
+the naturally courteous Montenegrins. However, now the man's rage
+communicated itself to us, and in the twinkling of an eye both Marko
+and myself had covered him with our firearms--we both had guns at our
+side--and Stephan began to talk. Stephan was a violent-tempered man,
+and now he let himself go. He spoke for some minutes, and it was
+lurid. The muzzle of my carbine began to wobble, for his fluency and
+comprehensiveness were distinctly amusing, while our attacker, who
+soon let go the butt of his revolver, listened with pained but
+undisguised admiration. "And now, thou accursed one," wound up
+Stephan, after he had paid attention, in his burst of eloquence, to
+the man's family, antecedents, personal appearance, and probable
+future, "go back to the hotel, and await my master's return! Thou
+knowest the law. For even laying the hand on thy revolver in anger,
+and against strangers in our land, thou wilt be thrown into prison,
+and thou wilt receive ten months. I will come and see thee, and listen
+to the music of thy clanking chains, and we will talk of to-day's
+doings!" By the time Stephan had finished, abject fear was depicted on
+the man's face, and his companions showed signs of having heard
+enough. Murmuring apologies, they sheered off, and with a slow and
+thoughtful rhythm paddled back the way they had come.
+
+On our return to the inn several hours later the three men were
+standing stiffly outside the door, cap in hand and thoroughly scared.
+He who had attacked us spoke tremblingly, offering as an excuse that
+they had fished all night and had but gone for some food before taking
+us out again. They were direly poor, he said, and the fear of losing
+their wages had upset them, the long night without sleep had destroyed
+their powers of reasoning, and--would we forgive them for the
+dastardly outrage? Needless to say we dismissed them, as do the
+magistrates, with a caution.
+
+We met amongst other Montenegrin officials the district doctor, an
+interesting man of varied experience. At his invitation we witnessed
+the annual vaccination, which is compulsory in Montenegro.
+
+[Illustration: VACCINATION]
+
+[Illustration: BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO]
+
+Outside the door of the principal mosque the doctor and his
+assistants and some other officials took up their position one morning
+and waited. Shortly afterwards crowds of children appeared on the
+scene, mostly in charge of their Turkish fathers or elder brothers,
+some of the latter scarcely able to carry their little burdens. Very
+rarely a Turkish mother appeared, closely veiled, but the Christian
+mothers invariably came; that is, the Albanian Christians from the
+outlying villages. Very quaint are these women in a most picturesque
+costume and carrying their infants in a cumbersome and unwieldy cradle
+slung on their backs. It was a very varied assortment of babies which
+was presented to the doctor, many of the Turkish children being so
+emaciated and such a mass of repulsive sores, that many were sent away
+as too weak. Most of them shrieked with fear, but a few came up
+smiling, one and all comforted by their protector, either Turk, child,
+or fond mother. The fathers invariably showed the most distressed
+concern. It was a comical sight; outside the rails a motley crowd of
+interested spectators and waiting children, and in the inclosure the
+doctor pricking his patients one after the other in a most indifferent
+manner. His clerk noted the names, and we, with some of the local
+grandees, drank tiny cups of coffee and looked on.
+
+The Albanian or Turkish element is very strong in Dulcigno, and they
+are the only Montenegrin subjects exempt from compulsory military
+service. The Montenegrin authorities told us that they were very
+peaceable and industrious, giving no trouble whatever. It is, after
+Podgorica, the largest town in Montenegro, and does a lot of trade in
+small sailing-boats down the coast. As many as seventy-five per cent
+of the men are usually away at sea, carrying the Montenegrin flag as
+far as Constantinople. It is quite cut off from the rest of
+Montenegro, except by a mule track connecting it over a difficult
+mountain path with Antivari and the rest of the country. By sea it is
+connected by the Austrian-Lloyd weekly Albanian Line, and by one or
+two smaller steamers which occasionally call there, with Cattaro and
+the Albanian coast towns.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer much
+from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass the
+Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious troubles--The town
+and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding, Yes and No--We return to Rijeka
+by steamer--The beauties of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's
+return, when the fatted calf is _not_ killed.
+
+
+Before we left Dulcigno it was necessary to have our passports vis�d
+by the Turkish Consul, as we intended returning to Podgorica _vi�_
+Scutari. We had to go through a lot of tedious formality, though the
+Consul was a most pleasant man, and laughed at the precautions which
+his orders forced him to take. But as he supplied us with horses and
+an escort--for the path is considered somewhat dangerous--we resigned
+ourselves to the inevitable with a good grace. Our guns and carbines
+we were forced to send back to Podgorica with Stephan, as the law is
+very strict against the introduction of firearms into Albania, where,
+however, even the poorest peasant goes fully armed. But as strangers
+our weapons would have been confiscated on the border. Verily the ways
+of the Turk are passing strange.
+
+We made a start at four o'clock one morning just as the sun was
+appearing above the hills, and the day promised to be extremely hot.
+Our horses were fairly good, and the man who constituted our guard, an
+Albanian, seemed a pleasant fellow, which much belied his appearance.
+A more villainous-looking face, with half his teeth missing, could
+hardly be imagined. However, the whole way he rolled us cigarettes
+most industriously, rarely taking one from us. Our saddles were
+Turkish, and were our first experience of them, and, it is to be
+hoped, the last.
+
+The high road, or rather path, to Scutari, is considered good for
+Montenegro. In reality it is a mere track, in places paved with
+cobblestones atrociously laid. It is odd that many important districts
+in this country are entirely unconnected by roads with the
+neighbouring towns, and consequently such things as carriages do not
+exist. As an instance, the whole of the country lying beyond Rijeka
+towards the sea, containing two important towns, and in size about an
+eighth of Montenegro, possesses one short road--from Virpazar to
+Antivari--and one carriage.
+
+Our path lay for the first three hours through a richly vegetated
+country, and the scenery at times was quite English, owing to the
+amount of oak trees which overhang the path. But at nearly every open
+space was a Turkish graveyard. The indiscriminate way in which the
+Turks bury their dead is most extraordinary.
+
+We reached the River Bojana, and rode along the bank some time before
+we came to the ferry. It is a broad and swiftly flowing river of quite
+imposing size. The heat was now getting tremendous, and a friendly
+Albanian picking apricots on the roadside gave us many handfuls, which
+proved very acceptable.
+
+Two Albanians came across in a large barge in answer to our hail, and
+we and our horses--the latter, by the way, stepping into the barge
+most unconcernedly--were piloted across. Here we entered Albania, and
+were examined by a fierce-looking Customs official. He turned our
+baggage out on to a mat, and evidently meant to overhaul it
+thoroughly, when a few _Daily Graphics_ caught his eye. After that he
+dismissed the remainder of our things with a wave of the hand, which
+our men promptly repacked, and retired into the papers. A lot of other
+men came up, and we were pleased to afford so much delight with our
+illustrated journals.
+
+As we were drinking coffee in the very primitive inn, a heavy
+thunderstorm came on, and deluges of rain, keeping us here for about
+an hour, when it cleared up sufficiently to proceed. Our landlord at
+Dulcigno had packed us up a meal with a bottle or two of wine at our
+orders, and we, now being hungry, inspected the basket. It was, to put
+it mildly, distinctly disappointing, and not fit to eat or drink.
+Added to this, my hunting knife was stolen, and we were very glad to
+get on again.
+
+The rest of the ride was the reverse of monotonous. The path was now
+as slippery as grease, and our horses floundered at every other step,
+and at times we plashed through quagmires, and became bespattered from
+head to foot. Several men passed us with rifles slung over their
+shoulders, but interchanged salutations with our guard. With the
+exception of one small revolver, we were unarmed and practically
+helpless. A short time after our ride through this district, a
+stranger was killed. It is very unfair to refuse foreigners the
+permission to carry any arms through such dangerous parts, when it is
+considered a disgrace to go unarmed by the inhabitants. Our saddles,
+too, were beginning to cause us much discomfort. After the first few
+hours on a Turkish saddle, every movement of the horse becomes agony.
+
+We reached the outskirts of Scutari about seven hours after our start,
+and the town is entered by a great bridge. But before coming to the
+bridge we rode through a great assembly of Albanians, judging from
+their different costumes, from every part of the country, with their
+flocks and herds for the market. The men were lying about singly or in
+groups, sometimes under a rough tent, while the women attended to
+their wants and to the flocks. Each man was heavily armed with rifle
+and revolver, and turned lazily as we passed, with no friendly looks,
+plainly intimating that we were intruders. Still they were fine,
+fierce-looking men, though their expression is not nearly so
+prepossessing as that of the Montenegrin. It was a strange scene of
+life, but only one of many that abound in and about the capital of
+Albania.
+
+At the bridge we had to dismount and cross on foot, and a very painful
+operation it proved after so many hours in the saddle.
+
+The custom-house was situated immediately at the other end of the
+bridge, and here we entered. In the guard-house, full of
+disreputable-looking Turkish soldiers, were hung rifles and revolvers
+on nails in great number and variety, which the mountaineers have to
+leave on entering the town precincts. The custom-house official was
+peacefully sleeping when we came in, and had to be awakened. We were
+led to a divan, and cigarettes and coffee promptly brought to us while
+our passports were examined. In a quarter of an hour we were allowed
+to proceed, but a man came running after us saying that our baggage
+had not been examined. He gently hinted that he had no wish to examine
+it all if ..., and we understood. We forced a handful of backsheesh in
+his seemingly unwilling hand, and slowly, with many muttered
+exclamations, climbed into the saddles. We even did not scorn the
+friendly aid of a low wall, so painfully stiff were we.
+
+A short ride round the once mighty and historical fortress of Scutari,
+past a ruined building liberally painted with white crosses, said to
+have been once the Cathedral, and where we had noticed that Christian
+Albanians piously crossed themselves on passing, led us to the famous
+bazaar.
+
+It was not our first visit to Scutari (we had visited the town by
+steamer from Montenegro on several previous occasions), but as we
+clattered through the evil-smelling alleys filled with a surging mass
+of more or less unclean humanity, we were struck more forcibly than
+ever with the picture. At times our passage was blocked by the crowds,
+and misshapen figures and hideous faces would peer out of doors and
+shop windows at us, and swaggering Albanians would jostle each other,
+their belts for the most part empty, though many were armed in spite
+of the stringent rules to the contrary. Slowly we forged our way
+through this seething crowd, and emerged on the open road beyond,
+leading to the town proper, which lies about half-an-hour's distance
+away.
+
+At the hotel we dismissed the man (and the horses), who remarked with
+a certain grimness, in Italian, "Buon arrivato," and we staggered into
+a meal which our eight-hour fast and torture had rendered extremely
+necessary.
+
+[Illustration: THE CONSULAR QUARTERS, SCUTARI]
+
+Though Scutari, strictly speaking, does not belong to this account of
+Montenegro, it is still so interesting, being in former days part
+of Montenegro, that it deserves some mention.
+
+The actual town is Mahometan, three-quarters of the inhabitants
+belonging to that faith; but as the surrounding mountains are all
+Christian, and it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Bishopric of
+Albania, religious feuds are common. The Christian Albanian belongs
+literally to the "Church Militant," and emphasises his feelings
+occasionally by throwing a dead pig into a mosque. On other occasions
+playful Albanians have been known to tie white cloths round a fez,
+thereby imitating the headgear of a Mahometan priest, and so parade
+through the town. Very naturally the Mahometans object to it, and
+trouble ensues. About a year ago Scutari was in a state of siege, and
+closed to trade for a fortnight.[3]
+
+The consular quarter of the town is really quite fine, and here all
+the rich merchants, of whom there are very many, live in large houses
+often beautifully fitted up and surrounded by a formidable wall. A
+street where such houses are situated is externally very gloomy,
+nothing to be seen but high walls pierced by massive gates. Behind
+those walls, however, are lovely gardens and imposing houses.
+
+[Footnote 3: This has again happened since writing the above.]
+
+The consulates are very much in evidence, with guards of
+splendid-looking Albanian kavasses. Politically only Austria and Italy
+are vitally interested in Albania, and these countries have large
+consular staffs and fine buildings and post offices.
+
+Owing to the absence of the British Consul, we went to see the acting
+Vice-Consul, who is a Scutarine, and a very courteous gentleman. Like
+all the rich merchants of Scutari, he spoke Italian fluently, and
+through him we got an insight into the merchant houses. An extremely
+aged kavass, in the long white skirt or kirtle worn largely in
+Scutari, and with the British Arms emblazoned on his fez, respectfully
+kissed our hands, and we were told that he had been in English service
+for over forty years. But he could not speak a word of any language
+except Albanian.
+
+The Vice-Consul placed another kavass at our disposal to accompany us
+on our explorations of the town, and gave him further permission to
+attend us on our proposed ride to Podgorica. This latter idea we were
+forced to give up ultimately, as the roads were considered too
+dangerous. As a matter of fact, a big shooting affray took place in
+the district through which we should have traversed a few days
+afterwards.
+
+Quite one of the sights is Mr. Paget's house (of Paget's Horse fame),
+situated in the heart of the town. The clock tower affords a fine
+view, though the time that it keeps is startling to the new-comer. As
+is known, the Turks have a time of their own, which has a difference
+of four hours and a half to our time. It is misleading to get up at
+an early hour, say six o'clock, and find that it is already half-past
+ten. And again you feel you ought to be sleeping at one o'clock at
+night, till you remember that it is really only about eight o'clock.
+
+In the bazaar of Scutari representatives of every clan in Albania can
+be seen, and each tribe has his distinctive dress, so that the variety
+of national costumes to be seen there can be imagined. The Scutarines
+are of course very much in evidence, clad in a jaunty sleeveless and
+magnificently-embroidered jacket, silk shirt, and enormous baggy
+breeches of black, and heavily pleated. How heavily pleated they are
+can be gathered when twenty to twenty-five yards of a kind of black
+alpaca are used for one pair of knee-breeches. White stockings and a
+red skull-cap--not the high Turkish fez--with a huge blue silk tassel
+reaching to the waist, complete the attire. Their women-folk look
+picturesque in a large scarlet cloak, with a hood half covering the
+face.
+
+The student of Albanian costumes can make a complete study of the
+subject in Scutari, rendering a journey into the vast country beyond
+almost unnecessary.
+
+We always took a camera with us, but with very poor results. It is
+against the Mahometan religion to be photographed, neither are
+photographers looked upon with pleasure. We did once plant our camera
+in the main street of the bazaar, to the great anger of a policeman
+who ordered us off, luckily after we had secured a picture.
+
+When we were quite new to Scutari, it happened we were waiting for a
+boat to take us off to the steamer, when we were struck with a
+particularly fine old Scutariner in red fez and long flowing skirt.
+Through the medium of an interpreter, I politely asked the permission
+to take his picture. He solemnly nodded his head backwards, and I,
+rejoiced at so good a subject, hurriedly erected the stand. When I
+next glanced at him, his face was purple with rage, and he made a
+threatening movement. For a moment I was quite at a loss to understand
+the why and wherefore, until our interpreter hastily explained that it
+was against the old man's religion.
+
+"But he said 'yes,'" I expostulated. "At least he nodded."
+
+"That means 'no,'" said the interpreter.
+
+"What does?" I demanded. "Saying 'yes,' or nodding it."
+
+Then the man explained to me at some length, as I repacked my camera,
+that in the Orient to shake the head means "yes," and a nod--a quick
+elevation of the chin accompanied by a click of the tongue--is
+negative. This custom is largely adopted in Montenegro, particularly
+amongst the peasants, but even then we never quite knew if a shake of
+the head was meant in the Turkish or European sense. It is a
+confusing and irritating habit, and takes months to get accustomed to.
+
+Visitors to Montenegro usually spend a day in Scutari, for the route
+by steamer is the only perfectly safe way of entering the town.
+Passengers by the steamer are not required to have their passports
+vis�d, if they state their intention to the official, who promptly
+boards the steamer on its arrival, to return by it next day. But names
+and particulars are carefully noted and laid before the Governor.
+During this particular visit, we were already well known to the
+Turkish officer in charge of this department, a pleasant little
+fellow, inordinately proud of his French which he had just learnt; but
+still he worried us greatly, calling daily and even sending obvious
+spies to find out how long we really meant to stay and our object. We
+tried to impress upon him that we had no base intentions on the town,
+and were really quite harmless individuals, but he remained friendlily
+suspicious till he bade farewell to us on board the little steamer
+_Danitza_.
+
+It is about four hours to Plavnica, and the trip across the lake is
+very fine, surrounded as it is by magnificent mountains and dotted
+with tiny wooded islands along its northern bank. We did not disembark
+at Plavnica, the nearest point for Podgorica, but proceeded _vi�_
+Virpazar up the river to Rijeka, the final station of the steamer and
+connecting link with Cetinje. The voyage up to Rijeka is delightful,
+as the boat threads her way through a narrow channel between lofty
+green hills. It is a picture of as true sylvan beauty, peace and
+quiet, as can be found on many of the upper reaches of the Thames.
+
+At Rijeka we waited in an inn for the carriage, which we had ordered
+by telegraph from Cetinje to take us back to Podgorica, and were
+startled to hear a revolver-shot fired in the village. Everyone was
+running excitedly to a certain small "dugan," or shop, and thither we
+also directed our steps and found a bleeding Montenegrin standing over
+a prostrate and insensible Turk.
+
+What had happened was as follows. The Montenegrin had bought some
+tobacco from the Turk, and claimed to have been given two kreutzers
+(under a halfpenny) short in change, whereupon the Turk accused the
+other of having hidden it.
+
+"Thou art a liar!" promptly cried the Montenegrin, and received a
+bullet in the thigh as an answer from the enraged Turk. Not seriously
+hurt, the Montenegrin, equally quickly, drew his revolver and, using
+it as a club, knocked the Turk insensible; in fact, he was thought to
+be dead. However, we afterwards heard that he had recovered.
+
+Shortly afterwards we were spending a few days in Cetinje, and were
+again witnesses of the final act of another small drama which was
+enacted about this time.
+
+One morning we saw about twenty Montenegrins brought into the town
+heavily chained, and on inquiry we were told the following story.
+
+A young man, whom we will call Andreas to prevent confusion, had been
+for some time in Austria, and not finding work he returned to his
+village, named Ljubotin, half-way between Rijeka and Cetinje, or, to
+be more correct, just below the Bella Vista in the hollow. He arrived
+in the night, penniless and in a desperate condition, and waited
+outside his widowed mother's house till he saw that all the men, his
+relations, had left and gone to work in the fields. Entering the house
+he demanded money of his aged mother, who indignantly refused him--he
+seems to have been a bad lot altogether--and as he threatened to take
+it by force, she hurriedly called in the village kmet, or mayor, to
+protect her. But the kmet was also aged and infirm, and brought a
+young man with him. This young man remonstrated with Andreas, who was
+breaking open the chest, and said--
+
+"Give me thy revolver."
+
+"Thus I give it thee," answered Andreas, and drawing his revolver he
+shot the man dead.
+
+Andreas then fled out of the house into the fields, and the murdered
+man's relations speedily gathered together and pursued him. They
+espied the fugitive running and fired at him, whereupon Andreas threw
+up his arms and fell to the ground. His pursuers thinking him dead,
+left him. Andreas was in reality shamming, and crawling through the
+bushes saw his uncle at work and promptly fired at _him_.
+
+This time he met his deserts, for his uncle, unhurt, returned the
+compliment and shot him through the head.
+
+These shots brought the original pursuers to the spot, and seeing
+Andreas dead, and shot by his uncle and not by them, they began
+abusing the old man for taking their lawful prey from them.
+
+He bared his chest dramatically, saying that as he knew that the
+vendetta must continue, they should shoot him then and there and end
+the matter. But they would not, and going further found another
+relation of Andreas; this time a young man, and the pride of the
+family. They shot and wounded him slightly. He fired and mortally
+wounded one of his attackers, which was as far as they got.
+
+The gendarmes had come and arrested them all, and these were the men
+of both sides, which we had seen that morning.
+
+As we knew several of them personally, we were doubly interested.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+Preparations for our tour in the Brda--We start--Where it is not good
+to be giddy--A trying ride--Our inn--Nocturnal episodes--The journey
+continued--Pleasant surroundings--The Montenegrin _quart
+d'heure_--Arrival in Kolasin--We meet the Governor--Visiting--The Band
+of Good Hope--The Crown Prince's birthday--We are ashamed.
+
+
+The preparations for our tour through the mountainous districts of
+North-East Montenegro, known as the Brda, took a few days.
+
+We had some difficulty about horses, though ultimately P. and I
+secured two good animals for ourselves, but the third, destined for
+the bulk of our baggage and Stephan, was a dilapidated apology for the
+equine race. As a matter of fact, it stood the trying journey in a
+remarkable manner.
+
+Then there were a few pots and pans for cooking purposes to purchase,
+some necessary additions with which to supplement our humble fare, and
+two days' rations of meat and bread.
+
+It made a formidable pile when we reviewed it one morning at daybreak,
+though we had cut down our baggage as close as possible. It took
+Stephan about an hour to load up, and when he had finished, he had
+left no room on top for himself.
+
+We carried ourselves each a carbine, revolver, and bandolier of
+cartridges, and a pair of saddlebags; but what with a camera, camping
+utensils, guns and cartridges, sleeping-coats, etc., the pack-horse
+was full up. However, there was no help for it, and Stephan had to
+walk the first day.
+
+We left Podgorica about 6.30, accompanied by Dr. S., who came with us
+partly on business and partly out of friendship. As he knew the
+country perfectly, he did much to render our tour more interesting.
+
+The mountains ascend abruptly, and our path was for some hours along
+the turbulent Moraca, which we met at the end of the plain. In five
+minutes we were surrounded by mountain scenery. Some little way up the
+valley a bridge is in the course of construction across the stream,
+and will form part of the projected road from Podgorica to Kolasin. On
+its completion, we were told, it would be the highest bridge in the
+Balkans. Men were working on a loose and steeply sloping bank of
+crumbling earth a few feet above a precipitous rock, which overhangs
+the Moraca, at a height of two hundred and fifty feet.
+
+"They very rarely fall," said Dr. S. in answer to our unspoken
+question.
+
+It made us giddy and sick to watch them. But our own position was
+often not much safer. The path see-sawed up and down; one moment we
+were splashed by the spray of a waterfall as it dashed into a creamy
+pool, and the next we were up on a dizzy height, with one foot hanging
+over a precipice, gazing on the foam-flecked mill-race below. Verily,
+it is no journey for a giddy man to take. A single false step on the
+part of the horse would send both it and its rider to a sudden death.
+With the ordinary mountain pony, for the horses are practically only
+that, it is not necessary to guide it--in fact it might be dangerous.
+The Montenegrin rides with a loose rein over the most ticklish ground,
+only tightening his grip on descending a very steep hill to help his
+horse when it occasionally stumbles.
+
+Despite a slight nervousness, we were still able to appreciate to the
+full the grand scenery of the valley of the Moraca. It turned out to
+be quite as fine as anything we saw in the mountains.
+
+About four hours after our start we crossed the stream by a wooden
+bridge and dismounted at an inn. Stabling our horses in the ground
+floor, we ascended to the upper regions where the human beings live,
+and clamoured for food.
+
+Raw ham and, of course, eggs were all that was to be had, and, as it
+turned out, it was our only meal that day. The flies were terrible,
+but Dr. S. comforted us, saying that every hour would bring us to
+higher regions and consequently fewer flies. A prophecy which was only
+partially fulfilled.
+
+We made the best of our repast, and after an hour's rest we made
+another start. We left the river now, and seemed to climb a breakneck
+hill for interminable hours. The region was barren and absolutely
+waterless, while the heat was tremendous. I only remember one view
+during that broiling ride. We had reached a great altitude, and were
+crossing a narrow ridge. On one side was the Moraca, and on the other
+the Mala, both streams mere threads in the hazy distance.
+
+It was the want of water that tried us more than anything. About
+midday we halted for a while at a small village, and under the
+refreshing shade of a large tree. Some young men kindly fetched us a
+little water in a dirty vessel, which tasted abominably.
+
+Another long climb and we at last found shade, and rode for the rest
+of the afternoon through beech forests. If the path had been bad
+before, it was worse now, and it was a perfect marvel how the horses
+kept their feet. I was somewhat unfortunate in my horse Alat, who was
+blind in one eye, so that I always had to guide him over difficult
+places. This kept me for ever on the alert, and became trying. At
+every hut we pulled up and asked for milk, but invariably got "Nema"
+(I have none) for an answer. The Montenegrins are singularly laconic
+at times.
+
+Now began a long descent, so atrocious that we had to dismount and
+climb down on foot, leaving the horses to pick their way as best they
+could, and about seven p.m. we reached the house where we were to
+spend the night. It consisted of two rooms, a kitchen and a bedroom,
+the sole furniture of the latter consisting of two wooden bedsteads.
+
+There was no food, except a half lamb, which Stephan had brought on
+the pack-horse, and its condition was unpleasant from its many hours'
+exposure to the sun and attendant flies. It took over an hour to cook,
+and by that time our ravenous hunger had passed, stilled by a few
+quarts of delicious milk. The inn--for such was the character of the
+house--unlike similar institutions of more civilised lands, had
+neither accommodation for man nor beast. There was no hay for our
+hungry horses, who had to wait for two hours while a man took an
+hour's climb up a mountain to the next village and brought back a load
+of 45 kilos (100 lbs.) on his back. A little thought can be given to
+this fact. Suffice it to say that this lean and athletic man took off
+his shirt and literally wrung the sweat from it. This, too, at the end
+of a long day's work. Part of the hay served for our beds, and little
+enough it seemed too.
+
+P. and I were given the two beds, or rather we were forced to take
+them, and I turned in at once, after looking at the mutton broth, and
+fell asleep immediately. In the night I was awakened by a child crying
+in the room, and in the dim light I was startled to see the
+floor--empty when I went to bed--strewn with sleeping figures.
+
+A heap that I rightly guessed was the doctor, moved uneasily.
+
+"Doctor," I said softly, "are you awake?"
+
+"Yes," came the answer. "A small child has evidently mistaken me for
+its father or mother. Will you have it?"
+
+I feigned sleep.
+
+Other figures were snoring peacefully and emphatically, but the tiny
+inmates of my hay bed were painfully awake and sleep seemed banished.
+However, I must have slept again, for when I awoke the room was empty,
+except for Stephan, who was packing up. We had a wash in the stream
+and made a hurried breakfast, and were off by a fairly early hour.
+Stephan had found a horse, which must have come as a blessing to him.
+He had walked yesterday about thirty miles. The path was much better
+to-day, and we were enabled to make better pace. At a small village
+named Lijeva Rijeka we made a long halt to allow the doctor to
+transact some official business. We ate up what meat we had left, and
+had great fun with the village big-wigs.
+
+Strangers are beings of rare occurrence in the mountains, and we
+always came in for much "courteous curiosity." Dr. S. and Stephan
+enjoyed answering inquiries as to who we were immensely. One time we
+were engineers making plans for the new road; another time we were
+enterprising merchants about to open up the country; and once a man
+remarked, when he was told that I was the British Minister, "And wears
+patched trousers?" He referred to the knee pads of my riding-breeches.
+
+Our arms, as was only natural to this fighting race, attracted great
+interest. The carbines, of the Austrian Mannlicher system, invariably
+went the round to a chorus of delighted appreciation. Likewise our
+field-glasses, through which they would look for hours.
+
+Shortly after leaving this village we had a fortunately short but
+exceedingly steep hill to climb, which brought us on to a magnificent
+plateau of rich green grass, carpeted with wild flowers. From this
+point onwards the scenery changed completely. We were in the Alpine
+regions. It was very beautiful, the trees covered every hill with a
+mass of green foliage, and every here and there a snow-capped mountain
+peak would appear. Not only was the scenery different, but the
+dwellings of the peasants took quite another style of architecture;
+conical thatched roofs of a height out of all proportion to the size
+of the house, and a massive verandah or loggia built into the house,
+The inhabitants are snowed up for many months every year, and have to
+lay in great stores of food. But how delightful it must be here in
+winter! What an opportunity for snow-shoeing! The peasants can do the
+journey to Podgorica in about half the time on their primitive
+snow-shoes.
+
+The ride from here to Kolasin was nearly perfection. We skirted
+rushing mountain torrents, through woodland glades and soft green
+swards; the air was glorious and cool, for though the sun was powerful
+there was an abundance of shade. One drawback, however, a drawback
+sufficient to mar our happiness, was not denied us. Every mile or so
+we had to plunge through a quagmire, equal to the worst South African
+mudhole, which is saying a great deal. Much care had to be exercised
+to prevent the horses getting fairly bogged or breaking their legs,
+but all passed without an accident, though our condition at the end of
+the day was awful. We were bespattered from head to foot.
+
+Several halts at hans were made during the day for rest, food, and
+milk, and about three p.m. we struck the River Tara, and had crossed
+the water-shed of the Adria and the Black Sea. We followed the Tara
+till Kolasin, where we arrived about seven o'clock.
+
+Montenegrins have no idea of judging time and distance, which is
+curious. There is another favourite way of describing a distance: by
+cigar (cigarette) smoking. You will be informed that the distance is
+one cigarette, which means that the traveller has time to smoke one
+cigarette on the way. As an ordinary smoker consumes a cigarette in
+about ten minutes, the distance would seem small, but it is not so. It
+is better to reckon two hours. Quarters of hours and cigarette-smoking
+measurements take a lot of learning, and cause much vexation to the
+spirit before they are mastered. When the stranger has mastered them,
+he ceases to ask, and patiently waits. One word of warning to
+intending travellers. If you are told that the next village is _two_
+hours away, then rest awhile and eat and drink, for two hours means
+"X."
+
+About seven p.m. we clattered up the little street of Kolasin, which
+is the capital of the same-named district.
+
+It is a beautiful mountainous tract of country, as unlike to
+Montenegro proper as is the sun to the moon, richly wooded with dense
+primeval beech forests, full of rushing streams and rich pasturages.
+The little town itself is rather uninteresting; it has about 1,500
+inhabitants, all Montenegrin, for the Turk has almost entirely
+disappeared. Only in a ruined mosque and one or two dilapidated
+Turkish houses is the traveller reminded that once the Unspeakable was
+master here. The houses are all built with the afore-mentioned high
+conical roof and of substantial aspect.
+
+Our inn was a curiosity, and as we drew rein before it we noticed a
+crowd of men in the balcony of the first or top floor, for here the
+ground floor was devoted to stabling. Doctor S. hastily whispered that
+the Governor and General of Kolasin was one of the men upstairs. On
+going up the rickety stairs, we were at once introduced to him, and
+received most friendlily. He was a small wiry man, and reminded one
+strongly in appearance of Lord Roberts. Also, he spoke excellent
+German, having studied years ago in the Viennese Military Academy.
+Very kindly he promised to assist us during our stay in every way, and
+invited us to his house next morning.
+
+We overlooked the Market Square and had real beds, though the only
+available room was tiny. Dr. S. and Stephan slept somewhere else.
+After the heat of the valley, we found the air very keen up here;
+Kolasin lies over 3,000 feet, and is the highest town of any size in
+Montenegro.
+
+On the following morning we visited the Governor Martinovic formally
+in his house. It is only recently that he has ceased to be the
+Artillery General of Montenegro, a post which he held all through the
+Turkish war, taking part in all the important engagements.
+
+His ambition is to see the road connecting his district with Podgorica
+finished, which would bring the two towns within a six hours' drive
+of each other, instead of the present two days' very hard riding. The
+benefit to Kolasin is obvious. At present the vast beech forests,
+literally rotting, could be utilised, for wood is dear in the barren
+districts of Montenegro. Pyrite, too, is found in great quantities. In
+fact, Kolasin is cut off from the rest of the country. Everything must
+be painfully carried on horses or mules, and for a woman, other than a
+peasant, it is a journey of great difficulty. Side saddles are things
+unknown, and we heard of one lady, the wife of a foreign minister, who
+bravely undertook the journey, spending six days on the way from
+Podgorica. The Governor gave us a graphic description of the
+difficulties that he had experienced when he brought his family up
+here.
+
+We also visited the local doctor, a most extraordinary individual with
+a crank. He had started a Montenegrin temperance society, called the
+"Band of Good Hope." At present, I believe, the three hundred odd
+members were all from Kolasin, and it was meeting with very little
+encouragement. The cultivation of plums for the manufacture of spirits
+is a staple industry, and these peasants wish to know what they shall
+do with their fruit. Besides, as the Montenegrins very rarely get
+drunk, it seems rather an unnecessary movement, and the Prince himself
+does not favour it.
+
+Bismarck once said that England's greatness began to diminish when the
+"three-bottle man" died out; perhaps Prince Nicolas has like thoughts
+of his hardy subjects, who certainly can consume enormous quantities
+of alcohol with impunity. Besides, it would destroy a large source of
+the revenue, which Montenegro cannot afford to do. In the meantime the
+gallant three hundred feel very unhappy.
+
+The few days that we spent in Kolasin were passed pleasantly in daily
+excursions into the surrounding country shooting, though with
+indifferent results. The Crown Prince Danilo's birthday came one day
+during our stay, and Governor, staff, and officials went to church
+attired in glorious raiment. They literally sparkle in gold lace
+embroidery, orders, and decorations, and for a gorgeous but absolutely
+tasteful effect commend me to the gala dress of the Montenegrin high
+official. It is the most artistic blending of gold, crimson, blue, and
+white.
+
+After the service spirits were served out free on the market-place
+(what agonies must the three hundred have suffered!), and a dance was
+formed. The national dance--in this instance the "kolo"--is usually
+performed by men, though the women do sometimes join in, and it is a
+slow and stately measure.
+
+[Illustration: THE KOLASIN MARKET PLACE]
+
+[Illustration: THE KOLO]
+
+The men place their hands on each other's shoulders and form a
+ring, which, however, is never completed. New men can join in, but a
+space is always left open. One step is taken sideways to the left, and
+then three to the right, and the movement is accompanied by singing.
+The singers are three or four men on the opposite horns of the circle,
+who alternately chant verses in honour of the Prince.
+
+The ring of men slowly danced their way from the Market Square to the
+Governor's house, where more spirits were given, and an accordion
+player joined the ring.
+
+Loud cries of "Zivio!" followed the cessation of every movement. We
+followed and went in to the Governor, to offer our congratulations and
+drink His Royal Highness's health. The room was quite full, two or
+three men being rough peasants, relations of the Governor. There is
+very little class distinction in Montenegro. Often the humblest
+peasant can claim relationship with the Voivoda, or Duke, of the
+province, and will always be cordially received.
+
+We felt quite ashamed of our appearance--leather coats, collarless
+shirts, and so forth--amongst such rich costumes. The complete outfit
+of a Montenegrin dandy costs over forty pounds, and takes a bit of
+beating.
+
+Carefully tucking our rough riding-boots under our chairs, to avoid
+marking the contrast with our host's resplendent jack-boots of
+patent-leather, and buttoning up our coat collars, we endeavoured to
+make ourselves as inconspicuous as possible in this brilliant
+assembly. But in spite of our tramp-like garb, we were always highly
+honoured guests.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+Montenegro's oldest building--The ride to the Moraca Monastery--A
+perilous bridge and ascent--The Abbot's tale--We inspect the
+monastery--The health of the King is drunk--The relative merits of
+Boers and Montenegrins--The Abbot makes us presents--We visit a
+peasant's house and a Homeric feast--A feu-de-joie--Departure from
+Kolasin--We are mistaken for doctors again--Raskrsnica.
+
+
+In Montenegro there are, strangely enough, with one famous exception,
+no buildings of any great antiquity. This, however, can be easily
+accounted for by the repeated invasions of the Turks, who ravaged the
+land with a merciless fury. Montenegro was the only Balkan state which
+they were unable to bring to obedience, and the struggle, which began
+after the battle of Kossovo, has, perhaps, not reached its final stage
+yet, though other enemies have supplanted the Turk.
+
+Far away in the heart of the mountains, and perched on the top of a
+high cliff, at whose feet the turbulent mountain torrent Moraca races
+past, there is situated a monastery, which takes its name from the
+river below.
+
+This monastery is the only building that has escaped the scourge of
+the Turk, and, though often attacked, only once has it been partially
+burnt. Like its famous sister at Ostrog, it is constructed in a
+position where Nature has provided the best means of defence, and
+this the hand of man has skilfully utilised and improved. It was
+founded in the year 1252 by one of the sons of the famous Servian
+king, Stephan Nemanja, and dedicated to S. Nicholas. Right well has
+the saint watched over and protected his feof.
+
+During our stay at Ostrog the Archbishop of Montenegro impressed upon
+us most strongly the necessity of visiting Moraca before leaving the
+country. He himself had lived there many years as the Archimandrite,
+and was besieged by the Turks during his sojourn within its walls.
+
+So, accompanied by a guide, with whom the Governor of Kolasin had
+provided us, we made an early start one morning for the monastery. We
+had a perfect ride through dense beech forests, skirting a noisy
+little stream, of which we were able to obtain a glimpse every now and
+then through a break in the trees. On either side of the ravine the
+hills rose steeply to some height. We soon passed a lonely cross in a
+small clearing, erected to the memory of five Montenegrins who had
+been surprised and murdered there by the Turks.
+
+It is always so in Montenegro, when the traveller is filled with a
+sense of peace at the grandeur of the wild mountainous scenery, or the
+beauty of a sylvan forest glade, a rough cross, or cairn of stones,
+will be pointed out where men have met a sudden and violent death.
+
+[Illustration: A TYPICAL ROAD]
+
+Once, as our path led up a steep incline, our guide told us
+graphically how that, a few weeks ago, both a horse and its rider had
+fallen down the one hundred feet into the river below. The path was
+very narrow, and he strongly advised us in passing to take care, which
+remark seemed slightly superfluous after the vivid description with
+which he had just favoured us.
+
+Crossing the stream we dismounted, and climbed to a small grassy
+plateau on which a church is being built for the shepherds of the
+district. It commanded a beautiful view. The path now ascended to a
+great height, and much walking had to be done, for a ridge of hills
+lay between us and our destination. At the top the valley of the
+Moraca could be seen with a magnificent background of rugged
+mountains. A breakneck descent of two and a half hours, most of it on
+foot, brought us to the river, which was crossed by a picturesque and
+broken-down bridge. On a cliff opposite stood the monastery.
+
+While leading my horse over the bridge I chanced to rest for a moment
+on the central arch to enjoy the view. The guide, who was behind me,
+thrust me unceremoniously forward. It is not always safe to admire
+scenery from Montenegrin bridges. Certainly, on inspecting the bridge
+from below, he seemed to have shown no unnecessary caution. Two of
+the arches had completely given, and may collapse at any moment.
+
+A very steep and dangerous path leads up to the plateau on which the
+monastery is situated. It was nearly the cause of a serious accident
+to me, for my saddle gave, and began to slip backwards. Had the horse
+made one false step at this critical moment I should have been dashed
+over a precipice of eighty feet. Just before the gates stands a small
+inn, where we left our horses and proceeded on foot.
+
+The monastery strongly resembles a fortress, for the massive walls
+surrounding it are liberally loop-holed, and it can be entered from
+one side only. We entered a large courtyard with buildings on all
+sides. At the back a great mountain ascends obliquely, and in front an
+inaccessible precipice descends to the river. It was doubtless a tough
+morsel for the Turks in the olden days, though modern artillery would
+make very short work of it.
+
+The Archimandrite, or Abbot, soon came down and welcomed us most
+cordially, conducting us to his room, where we were regaled with the
+inevitable strong black coffee. He was a big, handsome man, with the
+long beard and hair which all the priests of the Greek Church wear.
+Quiet and benevolent as he looked, he is famed throughout the whole
+country as a mighty warrior; for in times of war the priests fight
+with the soldiers for their beloved freedom. Strangely enough, in
+the last war with Turkey he played an important role in saving the
+very monastery of which he is now the spiritual head. He was then a
+colonel, and commanded a battalion. The following story of the rout of
+the Turks is taken down from his own lips.
+
+[Illustration: THE MORACA MONASTERY]
+
+In those years (1876-7) all this district was in the hands of the
+Sultan, and the Turks had just made an unsuccessful attack upon the
+Monastery of Ostrog. Their army, under the command of the famous
+Mehmet Ali Pasha, was retreating on Kolasin, pursued by the
+Montenegrins. On reaching the Monastery of Moraca they halted with the
+intention of first destroying it, and Mehmet Ali placed a battery in a
+commanding position on the opposite heights for the bombardment.
+
+Unknown to the Turks, half a battalion of Montenegrins were stationed
+there as garrison, and the Pasha, thinking that he had but a handful
+of priests to deal with, sent down a small detachment to effect an
+entrance. The gate was opened, and they were enticed inside. Hardly
+had the last man set his foot within the courtyard when the
+Montenegrins fell upon them and beheaded them every one.
+
+The Turks, deeming all safe, sent a second detachment to assist in
+bringing out the booty, and they met with a similar fate. Then Mehmet
+began to suspect that something was wrong, and made preparations for
+a bombardment; but it was too late. A brigade of pursuing Montenegrins
+had come up. They fell upon him from flank and rear, and a horrid
+slaughter ensued.
+
+It must be confessed that the account seems incredible, and is,
+doubtless innocently enough, greatly exaggerated. But the worthy Abbot
+distinctly stated that out of 25,000 Turks only 2,000 or 3,000
+escaped. It was indeed "a terrible tale of a Turk that is ghastly and
+grim and gory." The Montenegrins were but men 1,800 strong, just three
+battalions, one of which was commanded by Michael Dozic, the Abbot,
+and his battalion it was that took the Turks in the rear, throwing
+them into utter confusion.
+
+To-day the peasants still find heaps of bones in the crevices and
+hollows of the rocks.
+
+After this very pleasant story, we descended into the courtyard, which
+is formed in a semicircle. In the centre stands the church. It is
+built in the shape of a cross, and its porch and interior are
+gorgeously adorned with the most quaint frescoes; indeed, every
+particle of the walls and ceiling is covered with frescoes of the most
+crude design and vivid colouring, and the altar-screen is
+magnificently gilded. The colours are well preserved, and seem as
+fresh as when the monks first laid them on, for the painting all dates
+back to the time of the foundation.
+
+It was somewhat horrifying to find that the frescoes behind the
+altar-screen were completely scribbled over. At first we put this down
+to impious tourists who delight in leaving their miserable names on
+the most historical buildings; but, on closer inspection, we found
+that they were copious notes in the form of a diary. The Abbot told us
+that Mitrofan Ban, the Archbishop, had written them during his lengthy
+abbacy many years ago.
+
+There is another church, or rather tiny chapel, within the monastery
+which is about a century older than the rest of the buildings, and the
+interior is likewise covered with frescoes of the same crude and vivid
+painting. They represent scenes from the life of S. Nicholas, and the
+chapel is only used once a year during the pilgrimage which takes
+place on the feast of their patron saint.
+
+Every year large numbers of Montenegrins flock to the monastery to
+offer prayers and offerings. Just outside the walls stands a small
+cannon, with a Turkish inscription, which four Montenegrins carried
+away one night from Kolasin when that town was in Turkish hands. Not
+only the bravado of such a deed, but the athletic feat of carrying
+such a weighty object over that difficult country, are very
+characteristic of this people. It is fired annually during the feast
+of S. Nicholas.
+
+The worthy Abbot was greatly annoyed to find that we had ordered food
+below, and still more when he heard that we were returning to Kolasin
+the same afternoon. He repeatedly urged us to spend a few days with
+him, but, enjoyable as the visit would have been, previous engagements
+forbade our acceptance.
+
+A second priest waylaid us as we were leaving for our meal, and
+carried us off to his room, where more coffee was served. He had
+travelled much in Turkey and the Black Sea, and we had a very pleasant
+conversation, but, after a short time, the pangs of hunger forced us
+to excuse ourselves. Our humble meal, which we partook of in the best
+chamber (and only bedroom), was hardly over when the young priest
+again rejoined us, bringing with him an enormous bottle of wine. Very
+solemnly he filled our glasses, and proposed the health of His Majesty
+King Edward VII. Our surprise was so great that we almost forgot to
+drink. And then came many questions as to the progress of the Boer
+war, questions with which, by the way, we were often assailed by the
+more intelligent classes during our travels.
+
+To quote an instance which happened to myself once in Cetinje. While
+waiting outside the monastery for the appearance of the Prince, who
+was attending divine service within, I entered into conversation with
+a gendarme. We spoke of many things, and to my surprise, for he was
+but an ignorant peasant, he inquired as to the progress of the war.
+He asked the nature of the country, on which subject I was luckily
+able to enlighten him. Parts of it are not at all unlike Montenegro.
+At this he pricked up his ears.
+
+"Thou hast been to the Transvaal?" he asked with increased interest.
+"Are the people brave like we are?"
+
+"They are brave," I said, "but not as ye are. They only shoot at long
+distances, and object very strongly to hand-to-hand fighting."
+
+The stalwart Montenegrin looked puzzled.
+
+"Shooting is good," he answered; and after a pause he added, "at
+_first_, but that is not fighting. It is an empty glory to shoot one's
+enemy, if one cannot prove it afterwards." I knew he was alluding to
+the decapitating process. "And then the wild charge, the cutting with
+the handjar when rifles are thrown away--_that_ is fighting."
+
+I explained that our soldiers loved the bayonet as much as the
+Montenegrin loved the handjar.
+
+"But what can you do when the other side won't wait for it?" I asked.
+
+"Then they are cowards," he answered judicially. "Are thy countrymen
+all as big as thou art?" he continued thoughtfully, feeling my biceps
+and scrutinising me closely.
+
+"Some of them are bigger," I said.
+
+"Then the Boers will have no chance," he said emphatically, and at
+this moment the Prince emerged from the church. This personal allusion
+to my size I took as a great compliment, for in a land where physical
+strength is an all-important factor candid appreciation of this kind
+is not meted out to one and all alike.
+
+Extremely fatigued after our early start and long ride, it was an
+effort to keep from falling asleep, and noticing this the priest left.
+We were both comfortably asleep in corners when the wretched landlord
+appeared with armfuls of sheets and pillows at the order of the
+priest. He cruelly woke us up and proceeded to make beds. After that
+all thought of sleep was gone. Furthermore, in dirty and dusty
+riding-clothes one has not the heart to lie down on spotlessly clean
+sheets.
+
+Soon afterwards the horses were ready, and we cantered up to the
+monastery to take our leave. But leave-taking was no such easy matter.
+Our pockets were filled with dried fruits, and after we were already
+in the saddle the Abbot presented us with packets of incense which he
+hurriedly fetched from the church. Waving him and the other fathers a
+last farewell, we started on our long ride back to Kolasin.
+
+During our rambles in Kolasin the doctor took us to a peasant's house
+whom he knew very well. This acquaintance proved one of our most
+pleasant recollections of the country. The head of the house was a
+fine-looking man, lean and active, and possessed many decorations for
+past acts of bravery in the field. His son was in prison at the time
+for some political offence, but his daughter-in-law and two little
+babies, besides two or three unmarried daughters and sons, were living
+with him. The whole family outdid themselves in courtesy to us, and we
+were, as usual, considerably embarrassed by the behaviour of the
+women-folk. Though we went several times to the house, they would
+rarely seat themselves while we were present, and invariably kissed
+our hands in coming and going.
+
+The doctor played games of cards with our host, but the united efforts
+of P. and myself failed to discover any method or system in the game.
+The doctor tried to explain at first, but after five minutes we begged
+him to desist. So we sat and looked on, drinking cups of black coffee
+and endeavouring to make friendly overtures to the babies, who openly
+showed that they considered us distinctly dangerous.
+
+The house itself was curious. The ceiling was low and the walls were
+of great thickness. The windows were so small that it was barely
+possible to squeeze one's head through the opening. The idea of the
+house is to obtain the maximum amount of warmth, for the cold of these
+mountainous regions is intense in winter. In summer, however, these
+houses are delightfully cool.
+
+The evening before our departure from Kolasin we were invited to an
+open-air feast at the peasant's country house.
+
+The "country house" was, it is true, only a rough wooden shanty, but,
+as our meal was outside, it didn't matter.
+
+When we arrived, after an hour's walk, we found a table set out with a
+white cloth and three wooden chairs on a green slope overlooking the
+valley of Kolasin. It was a delightful spot. Some little distance away
+the last few turns were being given to a lamb roasted whole on a spit
+over an open fire.
+
+The feast was soon served up. The entire lamb, on a great wooden
+platter, an enormous bowl of milk, eggs, sheeps' cheese, and unlimited
+spirits. The women-folk waited on us and kept our platters full. Other
+men with their wives joined us, not to partake of this Homeric feast,
+but to see us gorge ourselves. It may not be a nice expression, but we
+were literally forced to eat to an uncomfortable state of repletion.
+They took no denial, and even then the lamb was not nearly finished.
+These mountaineers eat meat only on great festivals, and consume
+enough to last them for the next few months. They did not realise that
+we were content with sufficient to last us for the next few hours.
+
+Our glasses, too, were kept replenished with the potent spirit of the
+land, and our respective healths were drunk, on the average, once
+every three minutes. When this began to pall they toasted each other,
+in which we had naturally to join, and these were followed by
+patriotic toasts. It was rather an uproarious evening.
+
+About ten we took our leave, and our hosts drew their pocket cannons
+and started firing; we naturally replied, and a deafening fusillade
+went on till every man had emptied his revolver. With singing ears we
+returned to our hotel to find the town alarmed, excited groups were
+congregated in the Market Square. Our _feu-de-joie_ was speedily
+explained, and the men flocked into the inn. As a slight return for
+the fright we had given them, we paid for a few quarts of spirits. The
+Governor overlooked our law-breaking, for after dark firing is not
+allowed, and no doubt he envied us in his heart, for, poor man, he is
+in the clutches of the Band of Good Hope, much, we heard, to his
+disgust.
+
+We left next day, and had a hearty send-off from the town, who turned
+out _en masse_ to witness our departure. The local doctor was not
+present. We had found no favour in his eyes.
+
+Shortly after leaving the town we passed the Montenegrin Militia, hard
+at their weekly drill. No uniform is worn, every man coming in his
+everyday clothes, bringing only his rifle. But they drill very well
+and the discipline is excellent. A company was being dismissed as we
+came up, and a large number accompanied us for a long way.
+
+The ride was magnificent that afternoon. The way wound up and up, and
+our last glimpse of Kolasin showed us the little town far away below
+us.
+
+The usual Montenegrin trick was again played successfully on us, the
+"only two hours' ride" developing into a journey of six hours. But
+to-day we did not murmur; it is only at the end of a long and trying
+day that this style of humour is out of place.
+
+For two hours our path threaded its way through dense beech forests.
+At one spot P. and I had ridden on so far in advance of the others
+that we dismounted and waited for them to come up. In the interval I
+was assailed by a man with a bandaged head. Doctors always wear
+European clothes in Montenegro, and without further inquiry, this man
+proceeded to sit down before me and remove his bandages, disclosing
+ultimately a ghastly eye.
+
+"What must I do for it, Gospodin Doctor?" he asked at length, for
+beyond the usual greeting he had not spoken. One glance was
+sufficient, and P. got up and left us.
+
+"Take it away!" I said, with averted face. "I am not a doctor, and
+never shall be."
+
+I felt him looking at me with his uninjured eye. These simple
+peasants are always under the impression that our modern education
+comprises that of medicine.
+
+"But, Gospodin, it has been like this for weeks," he went on, "and is
+very painful."
+
+"There is a doctor at Kolasin. Go to him. _He_ will be pleased."
+
+Evidently much hurt at my indifference, he slowly replaced his
+bandages and departed. Then our party caught us up, and we continued
+our way.
+
+Later on we emerged from the woods, and, still climbing, we rode for
+the remaining distance on magnificent grassy slopes far above the
+forest belt. Several snow-patches still lay unmelted in the shady
+hollows, and often far below us. From this ridge we obtained our first
+good view of the lofty Kom, the second highest mountain in Montenegro,
+and our ultimate destination.
+
+These great downs, across which we rode, had been only thrown open to
+the public, so to say, a few days ago, and were full of flocks of
+sheep and goats and large herds of cattle, grazing to their hearts'
+content after their long winter's imprisonment in the villages below.
+The Government fix the date when the shepherds may migrate into the
+mountain pasturages and when they must leave again for the lowlands.
+
+We overtook or met several parties of Montenegrins, and even Turks,
+for the border is not far distant, travelling from place to place. We
+were viewed with obvious interest, and invariably greeted with
+respect, though there is nothing of subservience in a Montenegrin's
+salute. He feels himself in no way your inferior as a man until you
+have proved your superiority in shooting or physical strength.
+
+In this part of the country Dr. S. always told the peasants that we
+were engineers, as a road is being contemplated.
+
+About seven p.m. we branched off from the main path, and descended on
+foot a steep path into a thickly wooded valley. In a clearing of the
+trees stood a collection of wooden huts, a summer village of
+shepherds, called Raskrsnica.
+
+It was our halting-place, and as our visit had been notified, we were
+received by a schoolmaster and taken to his hut, which was placed at
+our disposal.
+
+No schools are held during the summer months, and the teachers often
+turn shepherds, as in this case, and migrate with their flocks to the
+mountains.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+A typical mountain hut--Costume of the north-eastern borderers--Supper
+and a song--We go out hunting, and cause excitement--The Feast of
+Honour--We ride to Andrijevica--Andrijevica and our inn--The
+Voivoda--We go to church--Turkish visitors--Alarums.
+
+[Illustration: OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA]
+
+
+It was nearly dark by the time that we were unloaded and had got our
+traps into our hut. As half our time was spent in similar
+constructions during our mountain tour, it may be as well to describe
+them now.
+
+They are usually built entirely of wood, rough, irregularly hewn
+planks, and no attempt is made to make them air-tight; often great
+crevices gape, through which a hand can be put. The roof is generally
+fairly water-tight. A man _can_ stand up-right in the middle, but the
+roof slopes steeply down to the sides. The word "can" is used
+advisedly, _i.e._ if one is able to breathe the densely smoky
+atmosphere at the top. Chimneys or outlets in the roof to permit the
+smoke to escape are unknown, and when cooking is going on, or at night
+when a roaring fire is kept burning, the appearance of the hut from
+outside gives a stranger the impression that it is on fire, and that
+the flames must burst out at any moment. It leaks smoke at every
+crevice.
+
+Inside is an open space reserved for the wood fire, and a primitive
+arrangement, often a chain suspended from the roof, for hanging the
+cooking pot. A few blocks of wood serve as easy-chairs, beds there are
+none, an armful of rushes or grass, which is usually damp, serving
+their purpose. On entering, the new-comer will first cough violently,
+then choke, and finally make a hurried exit to the fresh air.
+Summoning courage and with a fresh supply of oxygen, he dashes into
+the hut again, and throws himself on his heap of rushes. As the smoke
+rises, the atmosphere on the ground is less dense, but the penetrating
+smell of the burning wood is sufficiently strong to make his eyes pour
+with water. These are first impressions; later on, he can even sit up,
+and after a few days will be able to walk comparatively slowly in and
+out of the hut.
+
+Usually at the back is a small partition, behind which a rough shelf
+can be found, laden with the day's milking and cheese. The whole
+family sleep in the hut, no division separating the men from the
+women. But the Montenegrin peasant sleeps in his clothes, so privacy
+is considered unnecessary.
+
+Dr. S. was here officially to inspect the flocks, and had an
+appointment with the district captain. He was not there, and shortly
+after our arrival a man turned up, delivering a message from the
+captain, somewhat in the following fashion.
+
+"Sir, it is my privilege to be the bearer of the captain's message.
+The captain would have you know that he will do himself the honour to
+meet you here to-morrow in the early morning."
+
+The man stood smartly at the attention and saluted at the conclusion.
+
+It is extraordinary the grandiloquent language which even the most
+humble peasant will use, and he speaks with the polished ease of a
+gentleman.
+
+The baggy blue breeches and red jackets are not worn in these regions,
+and are replaced by white woollen tight-fitting trousers and jackets,
+bordered with black braid. In fact, the dress strongly resembles that
+worn by the Albanians, except that the black braid is narrower and
+less elaborate, and the national cap of Montenegro is carried instead
+of the white head-cloth or fez. The costume is national, and has not
+been altered to that of the Montenegrin proper, because it is
+considered warmer. The first time that Prince Nicolas visited his new
+subjects a man said to him in that characteristically familiar way in
+which the Prince's subjects are wont to address him:--
+
+"Gospodar" ("Lord," and the universal form of address for the reigning
+Prince), "wilt thou not exchange thy blue breeches for our white
+trousers. They would suit thee better."
+
+The answer of the Prince is not recorded.
+
+Stephan called us into our shanty when the evening meal was ready. Our
+host wished to slaughter a lamb, but we deferred that till the morrow,
+and we ate what we had brought with us. It was, barring the smoke, a
+delightful experience, and its charm never diminished. That hour spent
+before turning in, after supper, when the tobacco tins circulate, and
+the shepherds crowd in from the neighbouring huts, made an impression
+which it will not be easy to forget.
+
+The fire, with its dancing flames and uneven light, shows up the ring
+of men squatting round it. Everything beyond is shrouded in
+impenetrable gloom, throwing out the wild picturesque figures, with
+their bronzed and honest faces, in bold relief. The ruddy glare rounds
+off all hard corners and softens every inharmonious line, flashing
+fitfully here and there on a steel revolver barrel. The musical voices
+rise and fall, and outside the stars are shining. All is peace and
+calm.
+
+That first evening a young shepherd, strikingly handsome, with
+clean-cut features, went outside and sang a wild Albanian song in our
+honour, his weird chanting echoing in the mountains. Then came a
+crackling of pistol-shots from the near distance, a novel way of
+applause. With very happy feelings we rolled ourselves in our great
+coats and went to sleep.
+
+Next morning we rose at five, and had a delightful wash in a stream of
+icy-cold water. As usual, our ablutions caused much amusement. The
+mountaineer contents himself with a ladle of water poured into his
+hands. Very shortly afterwards the captain arrived. He insisted on
+going out shooting with us, as well as the schoolmaster. We plunged
+into the forest and were soon deep in the excitement of stalking.
+
+P. was with the captain, and the schoolmaster and myself soon lost
+them. Later on, I too lost my companion, and it being near our
+advertised time for dining, I made my way back, which presented very
+little difficulty. On coming in view of the clearing I was received
+with shouts. Not being gifted with the Montenegrin skill at hearing
+and talking at great distances I walked on, and was ultimately able to
+distinguish the question as to where I had left P. I answered that I
+had not seen him for hours, and passed on to our hut.
+
+The excitement seemed to wax, and Dr. S. speedily enlightened me as to
+the cause. Both the captain and the schoolmaster had returned, _i.e._
+they had stood and talked from a hill about a mile away, saying that
+P. was lost.
+
+"Well," I said, "P. knows at what time we eat, and I have never known
+him to be late for a meal yet. And it is in an hour's time."
+
+"But the woods are dangerous. There are bears. The Albanian frontier
+is not far away. He can lose himself for hours," were among the
+remarks that I could hear.
+
+"Considering that he has a magazine carbine and a revolver, I don't
+think that we need be afraid. It is easy enough to find one's way
+back, and P. will have the sense to watch the sun. He has been out
+alone before in his life," I remarked, feeling rather irritated.
+
+Then an old lady began abusing me for having deserted him, "and he so
+young, a mere child," etc., until I fairly lost my temper.
+
+"You must not take it amiss," explained the doctor, who knew me. "It
+is only their love for you."
+
+"Thanks," said I. "But that is enough. If that old lady doesn't stop
+expressing her love for me shortly ----. Look here, doctor," I
+continued, waxing wrath, "you stop her. You understand the more
+talkative sex better than I do. I'll stop the men."
+
+About ten minutes before dinner P. turned up, serenely unconscious of
+the trouble, telling us how he had found a delightful shepherd, who
+had carried him off to his shanty and feasted him on bread and milk,
+but that he was still ravenously hungry. The incident did not close
+here either. When P. heard of the anxiety caused by his absence he
+took it as a personal insult to himself, and began abusing everyone
+in his turn. But all the same, the people remained obdurate, and we
+were never left alone, though they let us ramble whither we wished.
+
+Our dinner that day was a kind of feast of honour to the captain. The
+lamb was served, as usual, whole. Half a dozen men joined us besides
+our party. The doctor, P., and I had knives and forks and a plate
+apiece.
+
+"Help yourself to all you want at the beginning," said the doctor
+kindly. "Take as much as you think you can possibly stow away."
+
+We were glad afterwards that we had followed the doctor's advice, for
+when we had finished helping ourselves the men fell upon that lamb and
+rent it limb from limb with their horny hands. Montenegrins have not
+pretty table manners. Forks are superfluous, a hunting-knife will do
+for the bread, and spoons are only used for fluids, when they dip in
+the common bowl.
+
+That evening we went out shooting in another direction, and were amply
+rewarded for an exceeding tiring climb, although deer were not
+abundant. In fact, the moment that the shepherds take possession of
+the mountains, game nearly always disappears, returning with the peace
+and solitariness of the autumn.
+
+On the following day we left Raskrsnica at an early hour _en route_
+for Andrijevica, which lies at a considerably lower altitude than
+Kolasin. Consequently we had a lot of downhill work. We had another
+magnificent view of the Kom on our way, but otherwise our ride of
+about six hours was uneventful. Andrijevica is first seen from a great
+height, and really looks quite close.
+
+"Half an hour," said our guides, "will see us in the town."
+
+The descent was of a breakneck description, and had to be done on
+foot. The heat was tremendous, and, the way proving to be an hour and
+a half, our tempers suffered. It was about noon when we rode into the
+little town or village, for it is nothing more, though the capital of
+the Vasovic district, Montenegro's most eastern and consequently most
+dangerous possession. It borders on Gusinje, the wildest and fiercest
+of Albania's clans.
+
+The office of the Governor, or Voivoda, to give him his proper
+Montenegrin title, corresponding to our word Duke, is therefore no
+sinecure. His position calls for more diplomacy and acumen than any
+other in the country. A false move, a thoughtless action or word could
+plunge the tribes of Northern Albania and Montenegro in a fierce
+warfare. But a few weeks after our departure, war very nearly did
+break out at Mokra, over a dispute as to the rights of a small
+grazing-ground, and was only averted at the last moment. Then
+Andrijevica was full of troops, for 25,000 Albanians stood fully armed
+on the border, and a pistol-shot would have started an invasion of
+Montenegro.
+
+[Illustration: ANDRIJEVICA]
+
+The little township is prettily situated on a slight eminence at the
+junction of the Lim and the Perusica, the former a tributary of the
+Danube. It has a population of five hundred clad in the white Albanian
+dress, and is celebrated, rightly or wrongly, for the beauty of its
+women. Certainly our landlady was a pretty enough looking woman of
+most refined manners. The men are very fine-looking fellows. The
+country all round is magnificent.
+
+Our inn was also the town bakery, and we had a nice large bedroom well
+stocked with flies, and real beds, though in daytime it was the dining
+and drawing-room combined.
+
+Really many of the inns we visited in Montenegro could be aptly
+described by the song sung in London a few years ago of a coster
+describing his home. He informed the audience that if they wanted to
+see his library, his kitchen, or his best spare bedroom, "You just
+stops where you is." In slightly more grammatical language, it could
+be well applied to these hostels.
+
+Towards evening we were taken and presented to Voivoda Lakic Voivodic,
+who was sitting in semi-state before the house of a rival
+drinking-place.
+
+He had a remarkably strong face, and was of powerful build. Speedily
+we were introduced to his adjutant, the town captain, and other
+officials, and a great circle was formed of which we were the centre
+of attraction. Our arms were brought out and examined with great glee
+and appreciation; also our field-glasses came in for their usual share
+of admiration, and our clothes were likewise carefully overhauled.
+
+When we laughingly said that we hoped for some sport with the
+Albanians and perhaps to shoot a few, our popularity was complete; our
+backs were clapped, and a great scene of joy and enthusiasm took
+place. Such remarks are liable to be taken rather literally in this
+region.
+
+We gave the Voivoda and his adjutant a dinner one evening, the best
+that we could manage, though it certainly was not the kind of feast to
+which one would ordinarily invite a Duke.
+
+Being five of us, our table was not big enough, so we joined on a
+second smaller and lower table at which the doctor and P. sat. P. put
+a salt-cellar between the upper table and the lower, saying that as
+they now sat "below the salt," they could behave as they liked. It was
+a most uproarious meal, and later on the Voivoda retired to a bed
+which was just behind him to laugh himself out.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH PARADE]
+
+On Sunday we went to church--at least we went _to_ the church and
+met the Voivoda outside. It was a very hot day and the little edifice
+was crowded. We had a suspicion that the worthy Voivoda came late on
+purpose. He just glanced at the crowd which had overflowed into the
+open space before the door, and to the relief of his staff proposed a
+quiet cup of coffee instead. Under the shade of the trees, discreetly
+apart from the merrymakers who were celebrating the Mass of a departed
+comrade, we sat in the customary ring and were served with coffee. It
+was a pleasant hour, and as the Voivoda, who was a bit of a wit, if
+somewhat irreverent, said, "This is better than inside."
+
+The church was about a quarter of a mile from the town and lay almost
+hid in a beautiful wood. The bells, as is often the case, were hung
+about a hundred yards away from the church on a wood scaffolding, and
+on the green grass sat many groups of Montenegrins.
+
+The occasion was a feast. Mass was being said for the soul of a man
+who had recently died, and it is the custom for the dead man's
+relations to give a feast to all comers. Large dishes of roast lamb
+were being handed round to the men who sat in circles, the women
+eating apart, and much spirit was drunk. About six priests were also
+present, feasting.
+
+We had altogether a very merry stay in Andrijevica, and the men of
+Vasovic are sturdy, honest, fearless, and excellent companions.
+
+Once, as I was admiring an old pistol worn by a man who was visiting
+us--for men were continually dropping in on us at any hour, in a most
+unceremonious fashion--he promptly took it off and gave it to me. It
+had been carried thirty years by a priest, he told me, before it came
+into his possession, and had killed at least twenty men. Afterwards I
+gave him a present of six florins.
+
+There are no police in Andrijevica, but the population take their turn
+to patrol the town at night with rifles. This is not to keep order
+amongst themselves, but as a guard against an eventual raid of
+Albanians. Crime is unknown in this mountain town.
+
+One afternoon we were startled to see half a dozen Turkish officers
+ride into the town, accompanied by an escort of Turkish soldiers, all
+fully armed. They were proceeding to Gusinje, where fighting had been
+taking place and many men had been killed. It is very curious to
+observe the way that the Turkish and Montenegrin authorities visit
+each other, for the intricate formation of the border often
+necessitates the traversing of a small portion of the other's country.
+Owing to the danger, everyone goes fully armed. The greatest possible
+harmony reigns between the Turks and Montenegrins, as the formidable
+array of Turkish decorations which adorn the breasts of all
+Montenegrin border officials will testify. The Albanian is the only
+cause of trouble, and it is chiefly against him that the Albanian
+borders are garrisoned by Turkish troops.
+
+In the above-mentioned border dispute, the Turks sent down a
+formidable army to assist the Montenegrins and prevent an incursion
+into a friendly state. Truly things have changed very much, for it was
+not so very many years ago that Albania held aloof when Turk and
+Montenegrin were fighting. Their sympathies, if for either side, were
+with the Montenegrins, and now the hated Turk throws himself into the
+balance for Montenegro.
+
+No man goes any distance unarmed. A rifle is part and parcel of his
+being. So it is that visiting Albanians carry theirs too, and it is no
+uncommon sight to see eight or ten Gusinje men, conspicuous by their
+white head-cloths, rifles slung over their shoulders, and a girdle of
+cartridges, come into Andrijevica to market, or perhaps even to
+consult the Voivoda on a question of blood-guilt.
+
+No one knows in these parts when an alarm will be given, either by
+trumpet-call or rapid magazine firing, and each man must be ever
+prepared to hurry to the appointed rendezvous at a moment's notice. If
+he be guarding his flock, eating at home, or carrying produce to the
+market, it is the same; his rifle must be ready to his hand and
+everything left standing to answer the call to arms. Life is very
+real on these turbulent borders, and a chance dispute may assemble a
+brigade of Montenegrins and a horde of Albanians, each ready to attack
+the other on the spot. The shepherd private knows where to find his
+section commander, the latter, on completion of his section, meets his
+company officer, companies assemble, battalions form, and the brigade
+is ready within an hour or two.
+
+Such is the state of affairs to-day along the whole Albanian frontier,
+but nowhere to such a degree as in the provinces bordering on Gusinje.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika--The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story--We arrive at
+Velika--The men of Velika--The m�nu--Border jurisdiction--A
+shooting-match--The Kom--Pleasant evenings--A young
+philosopher--Sunset.
+
+
+One evening the Voivoda invited us to ride with him on an official
+visit to Velika, an offer which we eagerly accepted.
+
+Velika is a narrow strip of Montenegrin territory lying practically in
+Albania, or rather Gusinje, for the men of Gusinje owe and give no
+allegiance. Velika is not cut off from Montenegro, but the mountain
+connecting it with, so to speak, the mainland is steep and almost
+inaccessible, besides entailing a long and weary d�tour of many hours.
+Therefore our path to-day would lead us across an intervening strip of
+Gusinje territory.
+
+Next morning at an early hour saw us in our saddles, the Voivoda
+having first ascertained that our arms were in good order. "Not that
+there is any danger," he said. "But we never know if anything may
+happen, and it is well just to be prepared."
+
+Besides the Voivoda, we were accompanied by his adjutant, a
+lieutenant in the standing army, who had studied in Italy, and an
+escort of about six men, armed with modern magazine rifles. Later on,
+this escort was materially increased.
+
+About three hours' ride up the magnificent valley of the Lim brought
+us to a khan, and here we found another half-dozen men awaiting us,
+and another officer. These preparations seemed rather formidable for a
+journey of about an hour through a friendly country, but we knew
+already the uncertainty of the Albanian temper, and did not wonder.
+
+As we led our horses across a rickety wooden bridge, the Voivoda
+called to us and said we were now about to enter Albania, and spoke of
+the temporary armed alliance between England and Montenegro, which
+remark seemed to please him greatly. A great cairn of stones marked
+the border, and the adjutant reined in his horse, for we were going to
+ride in single file, to tell us that it would be better to unsling our
+carbines. "It looked better," he said. Many Albanians could be seen
+working peacefully in their fields, and huts dotted the
+mountain-sides. It was a scene of agricultural peace, enhanced by
+magnificent scenery.
+
+Suddenly, at some distance, two rifle-shots were distinctly heard, and
+the calm of the picture was as rudely and suddenly disturbed as if an
+earthquake had happened. The peaceful peasants stooped, throwing away
+the spade, and in exchange each had a Martini rifle in his hand, which
+he rapidly loaded from the bandolier of cartridges round his waist.
+Men rushed out of the slumbering cottages, and a great shouting
+commenced.
+
+"It is nothing," said the adjutant. "They become excited like this
+very often."
+
+But I noticed our escort closing in, and every man's face wore a look
+of great interest. Still we rode on, just as if nothing unusual were
+happening.
+
+To our left the hill ascended to a great height, and about one-third
+of the way up a belt of trees commenced, stretching to the top.
+Towards this wood ran hundreds of Albanians, and disappeared from
+view. I confess that I had a most uncomfortable feeling that I was
+being covered by many unseen rifles. We should have stood a poor
+chance had they begun firing at us, for there was practically no cover
+near.
+
+But our pace, that of a smart walk, neither increased nor decreased,
+and it ill became me to show my innermost feelings to these fearless
+mountaineers who so evidently considered this sudden excitement a most
+everyday occurrence.
+
+The noise of the shouting, however, continued, and was answered by men
+in all directions. It was a regular pandemonium of yelling fiends, for
+the Albanians are not beautiful to look upon.
+
+Suddenly a man appeared from some bushes close to our little party and
+headed straight for us, running like a deer.
+
+He had barely reached us and seized my stirrup leather, on which he
+hung, panting heavily, when from the woods emerged a pursuing crowd,
+brandishing their rifles as they ran. Within a few minutes we were
+surrounded by about a hundred and fifty Albanians, whose gestures were
+not to be misunderstood.
+
+They wanted to kill the man at my stirrup, who looked beseechingly up
+to me for protection. Why he selected me I have no idea, and I did not
+relish the compliment at all. Our escort formed a meagre ring around
+us, and we were forced to halt.
+
+"Are they going to shoot?" I asked the adjutant, who was next to me,
+in excusable excitement, "because if so, I would like to dismount."
+
+It was not a pleasant feeling, perched up on a horse within fifty
+yards of reputed good marksmen.
+
+"Oh no," answered the officer, "they only want the man, not you."
+
+"Still, you are not going to hand back the man, are you?" I asked in
+Italian.
+
+"We must hear what the Voivoda says," said the adjutant, shrugging his
+shoulders.
+
+I looked at the man, while an excited conversation was carried on by
+our party and the Albanians, and found him a pleasant-looking young
+man; his breath was coming in great gasps from his heaving breast, but
+otherwise he showed no traces of excitement.
+
+"Save me," he said in broken Serb. "They fired at me as I was working
+in my field. I am blood-guilty."
+
+All this time his pursuers were evidently debating if our lives must
+be sacrificed as well, for to shoot the man meant killing some of us
+at any rate.
+
+At this juncture several Albanians came to us and ranged themselves on
+our side, and amidst still greater excitement we began again moving
+forward.
+
+"It is all right," laughed the adjutant, who throughout preserved the
+same air of utter indifference. "They daren't shoot, the cowards, and
+we shall take him to Velika with us, and then decide what to do with
+him."
+
+"You don't seem to mind this sort of thing much," I said, "but for a
+beginner like myself it appears rather nervous work."
+
+"Oh no," he answered. "I live here, and have been in many border
+fights. They always make a noise like that, and they very seldom shoot
+at big people."
+
+"But if they do?" I queried.
+
+"Oh, well, we must all die once," he laughed.
+
+In another half-hour we passed the second landmark, and were informed
+we were again in Montenegrin territory. Our friendly Albanians left
+us, and rifles were more carelessly carried.
+
+"What hast thou done?" I asked the fugitive at my stirrup. "Tell me
+thy story."
+
+"I am a doomed man; my days are numbered," he said, smiling, and
+rolling a cigarette. "But life is sweet, and I wish to live a little
+longer."
+
+Strange, this man who was at death's door barely an hour ago, was
+smiling and smoking happily as he walked by my side. He had a most
+fascinating smile and laughing eyes, and now that the immediate danger
+was over he had forgotten it.
+
+"Some months ago in my village, many hours from here, a woman fell in
+love with me," he said. "She was beautiful and I loved her too, but
+not so much as she loved me, for I feared her. She hated her husband,
+who beat her. One evening she came to me when her husband was away and
+told me that she loved me and that we would fly together. 'I love thee
+as I hate my husband, and see, if thou wilt not do this, I will break
+my spinning-wheel before thee.' And I trembled, for now I knew that my
+life was doomed. For should I not take her, she must kill me as sure
+as there is a God in heaven, and if I fled with her, her husband and
+his relations would surely track me down. And she was very beautiful,
+and we must all die. So we fled here that same night. What could I
+do?" he asked, smiling again.
+
+[Illustration: VELIKA]
+
+"But why stay here?" I asked.
+
+"Because," he answered, "my brothers live here and I must stay here
+till I die. If I am not to be found, then my brothers must die for me.
+It will not last long, for there are many bags of money on my head. My
+enemy is a rich man."
+
+"But," he went on, "wilt thou ask the Voivoda, who is a good man, to
+give me a magazine rifle and some cartridges? See my rifle, it is old,
+and I have but five cartridges left. For thee he will do it, and so I
+can die fighting a good fight, and perhaps can kill two or three of my
+enemies first. To-day I have wounded one."
+
+"I will ask the Voivoda," I replied, "though I doubt if I have any
+influence with him. Ask him thyself."
+
+I did ask the Voivoda, but he said the thing was impossible. He had no
+rifles to give away. But our fugitive continued his request at
+intervals for the rest of the time that he was with us.
+
+At Velika, a collection of half a dozen houses, very charmingly
+situated in a valley, we halted and rested for many hours while the
+Voivoda transacted business and received reports from a very young
+officer who held this dangerous command. We commented on his youth,
+and were told that his father, recently dead, had held the position,
+and that he had inherited it. "Besides," continued our informant, "he
+is quite up to his work."
+
+As we dismounted, our escort unloaded their rifles, the snapping of
+locks and breeches bringing the excitement of the last hour or two
+vividly back to our memory.
+
+The men of Velika were fierce-looking and of great stature. Rifle,
+handjar, and revolver were carried by all. Our escort were equally
+fine men, that fearless look so characteristic of the Montenegrin
+race, being accentuated here. Yet the faces are pleasing, honest, and
+good-tempered. There is to be found in the world no more splendid
+specimens of fighting humanity than the Montenegrin borderer. Brave,
+reckless to a fault, with absolutely no fear of death, inured to every
+hardship, and able to live and thrive on the barest fare, they are
+typical of the old Viking, chivalrous and courteous, with the purest
+blood of the Balkans flowing in their veins.
+
+Our meal was sumptuous. Fish shot in the river by one of our escort on
+the way, a bowl of ground maize cooked in oil, raw ham, eggs, bread,
+cheese and onions, the whole washed down in draughts of fiery spirits.
+Not a feast, I grant you, in an epicurean sense, but highly acceptable
+in Montenegro. We were waited upon by two women, who were always most
+careful to leave the room backwards. Our meal was very jolly, and at
+its conclusion we took corners in the room and slept. About three p.m.
+we started again for home, taking the fugitive with us.
+
+He had decided to return to his farm, but as we neared the Gusinje
+strip of land where he lived the extreme nervous tension of the
+morning returned to him. Poor devil, it would be difficult to forget
+the sharp sighs which burst from him, when his control over himself
+left him for a moment, but it was with a smile and a cigarette between
+his lips that he left us, bounding over the ground like a deer.
+
+In all probability he is dead by now.
+
+In Gusinje we made a lengthy halt, while the Voivoda settled several
+boundary disputes between the inhabitants, our escort taking up
+commanding positions all round us and keeping a very sharp look-out.
+
+It would seem that the Voivoda has right of jurisdiction in this strip
+of land, though how we were unable to elicit. At any rate Albanians
+came and stated their cases, bringing witnesses, and amongst great
+noise the Voivoda gave his judgments, which seemed to be final.
+
+On re-entering Montenegro we dismounted on the bank of the River Lim;
+the Voivoda pointed out a stone on the opposite side about three
+hundred yards distance, and taking a rifle he fired at it. In a few
+seconds we were all shooting at it in turn, the Voivoda acting as
+umpire with the aid of my field-glasses. It seemed a risky thing to do
+in a country so easily alarmed, but no rapid firing was allowed.
+
+The shooting was moderately good.
+
+As the last shot had been fired, and some of us already mounted, a
+corporal from Andrijevica came up at a trot, bringing a telegram for
+the adjutant. It contained the notification of his promotion to a
+captain.
+
+This led to a salvo of revolver-shots and cheers, and we proceeded on
+our way.
+
+At the first khan (Morina) we stopped for coffee, and found two or
+three hundred men assembled under the command of the district captain.
+Had anything happened to us, revenge would have come very quickly.
+Here our additional escort left us, and our long ride home was
+commenced, which ended in the dark.
+
+It was a nasty ride, for both P. and Stephan's horses came down
+repeatedly, and the path was constantly about two hundred feet above
+the Lim. It requires care in the daytime, but in the uncertain light
+of evening it was distinctly dangerous. Both horses were done up, and
+Stephan lost his temper, and we saw him in his true colours, as
+he kicked and beat his unlucky animal. It was not till I took very
+energetic measures that he would stop, which amused the Voivoda
+immensely.
+
+[Illustration: MORINA]
+
+[Illustration: THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA]
+
+[Illustration: THE VASOJEVICKI KOM]
+
+[Illustration: ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA]
+
+P.'s horse was ill--in fact, it was his last journey. A few days
+afterwards he died from inflammation of the lungs, contracted at
+Velika that day.
+
+We went for a few days' shooting on the Vasojevicki Kom, and were
+handed over by the Voivoda to one called Vaso, a rich peasant of the
+district. He swore to be answerable for our safety, with his head and
+all that was his, and we lived with him for many days on the side of
+the mighty mountain.
+
+The shooting was not good, however; it was not the season, but
+otherwise our stay was very pleasant. The grassy plateau was about
+five thousand feet high and bitterly cold at night; below us, on
+either side, stretched great beech forests, and the Kom rose abruptly
+before us.
+
+Our hut was large and roomy, but draughty to an extreme. At night the
+icy wind whistled through its crevices, and we had to bury our heads
+in blankets. The whole family shared it with us, and in one corner
+stood an unwearied calf, too tender to brave the cold of the outside.
+
+Those evenings which we spent round the fire are impossible to
+describe adequately. Tired from a long day's tramping and sliding
+through the forests, often wet to the skin from heavy showers, the
+peace and warmth of that camp fire were delightful.
+
+The shepherds came from far and near, and asked us many questions: if
+we carried an apparatus for making banknotes (this is not meant as an
+insult, but a common belief that Europeans can fabricate their
+paper-money at will--a belief of which we had sadly to disillusionise
+them); if our glasses could show us Belgrade, and so on--questions
+sometimes so difficult to answer that we had to give them up. Then
+they would talk of themselves; the older men would tell of past deeds,
+of fighting and bloodshed, and the fitful glow of the fire would light
+up their animated faces and picturesque costumes.
+
+Great simple children they were, unknown in the art of lying, and yet
+they repeat stories of bygone battles and slaughter, which they have
+heard and believed, as gospel truth. Like Esau, with the smell of the
+field upon them, they love to listen, too, to stories of unknown
+lands, where the houses are even larger and finer than those of
+Cetinje or Podgorica, which towns many even have not seen; but too
+much of the outside world one cannot tell them, for then they look
+hurt at being deemed so childish. They are curious, too, as are all
+children, and love to examine the clothes which we strange foreign
+creatures wear. There they sit on the hard earthen floor, as happy and
+contented as princes, nay, more so, for they have no cares to trouble
+them. They proffer us their tobacco tins, accepting ours in return,
+touching their caps as they do so; then the cigarette, deftly rolled,
+is lit by a glowing ember, which they rake from the fire, and the now
+burning cigarette is handed to us to light from. Again we all touch
+our caps, for it is rigid etiquette, in accepting a light, to
+acknowledge the courtesy by a half military salute. In the corner the
+calf will moan, and we, now half asleep, will stretch out our weary
+limbs, draw our coats and blankets over us, and to the murmur of the
+now subdued conversation, find forgetfulness in sweet sleep.
+
+I remember a conversation with a boy of about fifteen, who was out
+shooting with me, and acting as my guide and beater.
+
+It was nearing sunset, and we sat and rested on a ridge which
+overlooked both sides of the valleys.
+
+He asked me so many questions that I asked him if he had never even
+been to Podgorica.
+
+"No," he said, "I shall never go."
+
+"Why?" I asked.
+
+"Because I am content here. If I went to that great town, I should be
+ashamed of my ragged clothes. I should want to buy the beautiful
+things which they tell me are to be bought in the shops, and not
+having money I should be sad. No; it is better never to have seen such
+magnificence."
+
+"But," I argued, "if thou goest to Podgorica, thou wouldst find work.
+Even I could get thee employment."
+
+"No," he repeated; "my home is in the mountains. In time I would have
+to return here, and I should be miserable with the remembrance of
+those happy days."
+
+This boy had been taught at the school, and he told me the capitals of
+the great countries, which were nothing more than empty names to him.
+He knew, also, a few words of German, about two phrases, though how he
+picked them up was hard to make out.
+
+He liked to ask me questions about England, Montenegro's friend in
+past times of trouble, and seemed surprised to hear that I had seen
+snow before I came to his land.
+
+His father said that the boy was stupid and a dreamer, but I thought
+differently of him.
+
+P. joined me, and together we watched the sunset. On our left towered
+the Kom, and running in an unbroken chain circled a mountain range,
+ending in the setting sun. Low down an angry bank of clouds hung over
+the distant peaks, and into this mass of black and grey the sun, in
+all its glory of yellow and gold, sank slowly. The hills between us
+seemed wild and mysterious. Away to our left, in gloomy confusion, the
+Albanian Alps reared their heads, lit here and there with a red gleam
+of sunlight. At our feet, shrouded in impenetrable blackness, lay two
+steep ravines. The sun sank, leaving a weird eerie feeling behind, and
+we found ourselves strangely cold.
+
+We spent many days with Vaso, shooting with indifferent results, but
+revelling in the glories of nature.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+We leave Andrijevica--Our additional escort--The arrival at our
+camping-place--In an enemy's country--The story of one Gjolic--Our
+slumbers are disturbed--Sunrise on the Alps--We disappoint our
+escort--"Albanian or Montenegrin?"--A reconnaissance--The Forest of
+Vucipotok--The forbidden land--A narrow escape--We arrive at
+Rikavac--Rain damps our ardour--Nocturnal visitors.
+
+
+We left Andrijevica finally one morning about eight a.m. for our many
+days' ride along the Albanian frontier to Podgorica. Everyone turned
+out to bid us farewell, from the Voivoda, who expressed his regret
+that we had seen no one shot, downwards. The Voivoda's son and a small
+party accompanied us to the outskirts of the town, where a quaint
+notice-board bears the inscription that, on pain of a fine, shooting
+is forbidden within the prescribed limits.
+
+Here, after much hand-shaking and promises to come again, we mounted,
+and drawing our revolvers, replied right merrily to the farewell
+volleys of our friends. It is a pleasant custom that--shooting at
+parting.
+
+[Illustration: THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS]
+
+We rode for two or three hours along the Perusica valley till we came
+to a small and scattered village, Konjuhe, where we dismounted for a
+rest. It was the birthplace of the Voivoda, and his brother still
+lived there. He was immediately sent for. When he heard of our
+proposed tour, he insisted on our taking an additional escort (besides
+Dr. S., and Stephan our servant, we had engaged another man, named
+Milan, in Andrijevica) of at least two men, as the country was just
+now in a very dangerous condition. The necessary guard was soon found,
+and after a long halt owing to a heavy shower, we were able to proceed
+on our way, first carefully loading our rifles and overhauling our
+revolvers. Our two men were quite celebrated for a famous raid into
+Gusinje, in which they had played an active part a short time ago.
+They had killed several Albanians, and captured two hundred sheep. As
+the Albanians would shoot them at sight, they seemed hardly fitted to
+act as an escort; but then every man from that part is engaged, more
+or less, in a blood feud across the border.
+
+We commenced climbing almost directly, and the ascent lasted for the
+rest of the day. The scenery was grand. On our right the majestic Kom,
+still covered with snow; falling away precipitously to the left was
+the deep ravine of Terpetlis, through which a mountain torrent dashed;
+and rising high on the other side, and forming the boundary between
+Montenegro and Albania, was a magnificent rocky ridge. We dismounted
+at one point to breathe our horses, and made our midday meal off wild
+strawberries.
+
+Further on we passed from the Vasovic into the Kuc. These two, the
+most warlike clans of Montenegro, were formerly under Turkish rule,
+and bitter foes. But when war broke out, they forgot their old enmity
+and joined hand-in-hand with Montenegro to drive out the still more
+hated Turk. Since then they have lived together in peace and harmony.
+
+On nearing our camping-ground for the night, our two guards ran on to
+draw the fire from any concealed Albanians, while we followed more
+leisurely. The scenery was wild in the extreme, though differing very
+slightly from that which we had experienced during the last few weeks.
+Great woods stretched half-way down the mountain to the torrent, and
+up again on the further side. Immense boulders, with an occasional
+tree growing out of a crevice, and every here and there clumps of
+firs, every yard affording excellent cover for a hidden enemy.
+
+Our destination was Carina, a collection of stone huts on an open
+green slope, which reaches up to the rocky sides of the Kom. It is the
+highest point inhabited in Montenegro by the shepherds in the summer,
+and lies over five thousand feet above the sea-level. During this
+period of the annual migration to the hills, the district is
+comparatively safe. The Albanians do not attack large parties, but
+rather stragglers, as larger numbers have an unpleasant habit of
+organising themselves into avenging bands to repay the visit with
+interest.
+
+Not a soul was to be seen anywhere, not a living being of any
+description. In a shower of pelting rain we took possession of the
+largest hut. It is decidedly annoying to get thoroughly wet at the end
+of a long day, and the prospect of a night in damp clothes was in no
+way pleasing. The hut was damp and cold, and it had the chilly feeling
+which only comes from a long period of emptiness, and strikes to the
+marrow. But our men turned to with a will, cleaning out the hut,
+strewing it with very wet rushes, and piling up a big log-fire in the
+middle. We were pretty hungry, too, a couple of eggs at six a.m. and a
+few strawberries at midday are not much to go on, and we had been in
+the saddle for over ten hours. Stephan had brought amongst other
+things some raw bacon, which he gave me, but, hungry as I was, I could
+not face that. Later on, a happy thought struck me, and I went and
+toasted it over the fire. I do not recollect ever relishing food so
+much in my life. About a couple of hours later a lamb had been
+roasted, and we were able to make a decent meal.
+
+It was getting rapidly dark now, and watch had to be kept outside. The
+horses were picketed close at hand for fear of wolves, as well as
+Albanians. By the time that we had finished eating, night was upon us.
+It was pitch dark and no moon. Rather reluctantly I turned out to do
+my share of sentry-go in the bitter cold. But it was decidedly
+interesting, as one of our party began to tell stories of the usual
+blood-curdling nature. On emerging from the hut, I thoughtlessly
+remained standing for a few seconds in the low doorway which, as the
+fire was blazing brightly inside, showed up my figure strongly against
+the surrounding gloom. Before I knew where I was I was roughly seized
+by a man and thrown forcibly into the darkness. He intimated that I
+must be a fool to court death in that manner. For all we knew, he
+said, a dozen Albanians might be hiding around us and waiting for such
+an easy shot. And when I was not allowed to smoke, I realised that we
+were in an enemy's country.
+
+Watch was kept all night by two men, one sitting on the roof, or on an
+elevation which commanded it, and the other patrolling round with a
+sharp eye on the horses. The roof must always be watched, for the
+Albanians usually creep up and climb on to it--it is always
+conveniently low--they then remove a board and shoot the sleeping
+inmates.
+
+During my watch I was told the following story, which brings out many
+interesting traits of the Montenegrin character.
+
+A certain man named Gjolic, of the tribe of Vasovic, killed two men of
+his clan over a love affair, and promptly fled to Gusinje, the country
+just opposite Carina, and inhabited by a tribe of Albanians, famed
+for their blood-thirstiness and hatred of strangers. The only passport
+to their land is crime, and no one but a fugitive from justice can
+hope to enter, or leave it, alive. Gjolic swore to have revenge on his
+clan, and in this respect he was a notable exception. He came
+repeatedly across the border, often in broad daylight, shooting anyone
+whom he met. He soon became the terror of the whole Vasovic. In the
+neighbourhood of Carina he had shot many shepherds, and last autumn he
+murdered a youth of sixteen. This was too much, and two men laid their
+heads together. To obtain the necessary right of entrance to Gusinje,
+they crossed over into Turkey and deliberately stole a cow, taking
+care at the same time that they should be arrested and sentenced to
+punishment. Their plan acted admirably, and they effected their
+escape, fleeing to Gusinje, where they were received in a friendly
+manner. But Gjolic was away, and for six months they waited for him in
+patience. At last news came that he was on his way home, and could be
+expected on a certain day. So the men went out to meet him, and began
+shooting fish in a river where he must pass. Fish shooting is a common
+and favourite sport of the people.
+
+"God help you," said a voice, "has your luck been good?"
+
+It was Gjolic who spoke.
+
+"Our luck is good," they answered, and following an imaginary fish
+with their rifles, they turned on him.
+
+Crack! Crack! Gjolic was dead.
+
+That scene I shall never forget. The starless night, all round the
+land lying enshrouded in impenetrable darkness, the low voice of the
+Montenegrin which rose with his excitement, but sank again immediately
+to a hoarse whisper, and on the barely discernible roof of the hut a
+black figure, with rifle at the ready, sitting motionless.
+
+It was eleven o'clock when I turned in, and the next man took his
+rifle and went outside to relieve one of the watchers. A roaring fire
+was kept going, for it was very cold, and round it lay the others
+sleeping, each with his rifle and revolver by his head. "And we are in
+Europe!" I said to myself, as I lay down to sleep, which, in spite of
+the mighty snoring of Dr. S., came almost immediately.
+
+It seemed but a few minutes since I had closed my eyes when a shot
+rang out, bringing me to my knees in an instant. It is not advisable
+to rise quickly in these huts without taking the roof into
+consideration, as I had learnt by bitter and repeated experience.
+Everyone awoke, except Dr. S., who snored on peacefully. However, I
+roughly awoke him, and we all dashed out, rifle in hand.
+
+One of our sentries stood peering into the gloom, and swore that he
+had seen a figure moving. We lay down and waited, but nothing came.
+
+Then slowly the day began to dawn, and with it our anxiety diminished.
+I went to get a cup of coffee, preparatory to climbing a part of the
+Kom. One of our guards, of course, accompanied me. That is the worst
+of these districts, we could never move a step without being followed.
+It was like being under police surveillance. Furthermore, I should
+have preferred to climb with a good stick; but no. Again that iron
+control ordered me to take my carbine, and loaded too.
+
+We reached a high ridge just in time to see the sun rise, and it lit
+up the snow-clad mountain-tops with an indescribable beauty. But so
+much has been written about the splendours of Alpine sunrises that it
+is needless to say more about it. Yet it was as beautiful as anything
+to be seen in Switzerland or the Tyrol. The ridge commanded a view in
+both directions. The Albanian Alps and the mountains behind the Moraca
+lay before us in one vast panorama, the latter looming up so close
+that it was difficult to believe that so many days' hard riding lay
+between us.
+
+After climbing one of the lower peaks, we descended again to our hut,
+which we reached shortly after six. Everyone was busy, washing,
+packing up, or even sleeping, which is an equally important business.
+To snatch half an hour's sleep here and there is an enviable art, and
+cannot be overrated. But, perched on a low stone wall, sat a guard all
+the time. Daylight does not imply safety.
+
+After breakfast, luxurious with toasted bacon, I emerged from the hut
+to find an excited group outside, one of whom was even lying down and
+aiming.
+
+"He is watching us. It is far better that we should finish him now
+than allow him to go on and report our movements," said the man,
+fingering his trigger lovingly.
+
+On looking I saw an Albanian about six hundred yards away, half hidden
+behind a boulder. The idea of shooting a man in this way did not seem
+quite sporting, and Dr. S. agreed with me. The men were extremely
+disappointed at our refusal to allow them to shoot. "He will follow us
+till we reach the wood," they said, "and then we shall repent it." The
+Albanian shortly afterwards disappeared, and we proceeded with our
+packing.
+
+About eight o'clock we left Carina, and had rather an unique
+experience in riding across several large snow fields which were quite
+hard, though the horses decidedly disliked the experiment. About an
+hour's ride brought us to a tiny church, solidly built of stone and
+standing on a ridge overlooking the whole country. It is used by the
+shepherds who migrate annually to the pasturages in this district.
+Only a few months ago the Albanians had broken into it and utterly
+dismantled it. On the iron door and on the shutters huge dents and
+even bullet splashes were plainly visible. Our Albanian we found here
+awaiting us, which was a plucky thing to do. Our guards hailed him
+with the cry of "Albanian or Montenegrin?" But he answered, "Friend."
+I think that our men showed him our rifles rather ostentatiously, and,
+as we were all armed with magazines and had plenty of ammunition, he
+must have thought that we should scarcely afford the desired sport. We
+did not see him again, though he took the same path which we were
+going to take. This incident put us very much on our guard, and we
+made preparations for the further journey with mixed feelings. Before
+us lay the dense wood of Vucipotok, which is the most ill-famed spot
+in Montenegro. It stretches unbrokenly down to Gusinje, and the bridle
+path which traverses it is the border line between the two countries.
+
+It was then settled that a guard and myself should climb a small hill
+overlooking the wood and its approach. However, we saw nothing, and
+soon rejoined our party. Before entering the wood, in the open, were
+two or three stones erected to murdered men--it is customary in
+Montenegro to put up either a pile of stones or a slab of rock where
+the body has been found. Inscriptions on the stones are very rare, the
+Vucipotok is too dangerous to waste much time in it, but wherever
+these stones are seen, a dead man, as often as not headless, has been
+found. Such memorial stones are to be found all over the country, but
+not in such plentiful profusion as we saw them now.
+
+Everyone dismounted, and with rather uncanny feelings we entered the
+forest. First of all went one of our escort, and then in single file,
+about ten paces apart, we followed. Rifles were held at the ready, and
+every boulder and tree carefully scanned. The path was atrocious,
+strewn with great stones, so that walking was no easy matter. When a
+particularly large boulder was reached, we would halt under its
+shelter to enable the horses to come up--they were following behind
+under the charge of one man. We did not exactly stroll through that
+wood.
+
+Every few paces stood a memorial stone. There was one put up to the
+memory of ten Montenegrins who were all shot down without seeing their
+enemy. Everyone shoots at sight here, and had we met our Albanian
+friend of the early morning, matters would have gone sadly with him.
+At one point I insisted on taking a photograph--much to everyone's
+disgust. The spot was where a famous Kuc general had been murdered.
+His head was taken in triumph to Scutari. Oddly enough, we ate our
+midday meal at his grave, for his friends took his body away from
+here and buried it in an open place directly overlooking the valley of
+Gusinje. I was rather hurried over the operation, as the Montenegrins
+distinctly objected to standing still, but they were all very tickled
+about it.
+
+[Illustration: THE PATH THROUGH THE VUCIPOTOK]
+
+The Vucipotok is used by young Montenegrins as a means of showing
+their bravery. They go straight through it alone, with their rifles
+over their backs, smoking cigarettes. This constitutes an act of
+reckless daring in their eyes. Some even go through, at some distance
+from the path, on the Albanian side. We met one young man leading his
+horse and strolling along as unconcernedly as though he were in
+Cetinje--so that we almost felt that we were being unduly impressed
+with a sense of danger. But afterwards we met another party who were
+proceeding with greater caution than we were. And then there were
+those memorial stones.
+
+At last the wood ceased, and in a clearing we made a halt. Our
+Montenegrins looked relieved. For themselves they have no fear, but
+had one of us been hit, the disgrace for them would have been
+unspeakable. It would have necessitated a raid into Albania of the
+most extensive kind, and hundreds might have fallen; the Montenegrins
+guard their visitors as they guard their honour, and in that case,
+life is only a secondary matter.
+
+We now climbed a very steep hill. At the top we had to dismount, as a
+narrow path, just wide enough for a horse, skirted along a great
+precipice, looking straight down about one thousand feet. It was a
+wonderful view, but not to be recommended to those suffering in any
+way from giddiness.
+
+We overlooked the great Vucipotok wood through which we had just
+passed, and the whole valley of Gusinje. When we reached a place where
+we were able to turn round with comfort, we stopped for the view. A
+long, narrow valley, inclosed by the Procletia or "Damnable
+Mountains," through which a river could be seen flowing, lay at our
+feet. This was Gusinje, the forbidden land. With the aid of
+field-glasses the town of Gusinje itself could be just distinguished,
+a square and apparently walled-in town.[4] Very picturesque it looked
+in the bright sunshine, the great green woods in the foreground, the
+solemn and majestic snow mountains and the peaceful valley. Yet it is
+inhabited by the most villainous and treacherous cut-throats in
+Europe, an absolutely untameable tribe, who would die to the last man
+to preserve their independence.
+
+[Footnote 4: This, however, is not the case, as we afterwards learnt.]
+
+When the path broadened out slightly our two guards left us and
+returned home. Both emptied their magazines into the air at parting,
+which we answered, and the din was tremendous. Below us was a small
+village or collection of shepherds' huts, and, in that moment,
+confusion reigned supreme. The men seized their rifles, the women
+rushed into the huts, dogs barked, and horses stampeded. It seemed
+rather thoughtless to thus alarm the village, but, on being
+remonstrated with, the men only laughed and fired another shot. Had it
+been a town below us the result might have been more serious.
+
+A little further on, we stopped for rest and food at a narrow pass
+overlooking Gusinje on the one side and Montenegro on the other. The
+murdered Kuc general, whose memorial stone we had seen earlier in the
+day, was buried here. Strange that his body should find its last
+resting-place overlooking the home of his murderers.
+
+By using the Montenegrin telephone (the art of talking at great
+distances), we ordered some milk from the village below, and drank it
+with that enjoyment which is only known to a thoroughly hungry and
+thirsty man.
+
+Our afternoon's ride was again particularly stiff. Climbing one hill,
+Dr. S., who was leading, missed the path, a very easy thing to do, so
+undefined as it sometimes is. He got on to a very steep and rocky bit
+of the hill and his horse lost its footing. It began stumbling and
+slipping about in a most alarming manner. We held our breath for the
+next few seconds, for a long fall was in store for him, and certain
+death. He tried to dismount, and succeeded in getting off his horse,
+but his foot stuck in the stirrup, the horse still sliding on.
+Fortunately, the animal recovered its balance, and Dr. S. extricated
+himself, but it was a nasty moment. That is the worst of the
+Montenegrins; they rely so implicitly on the sure-footedness of their
+ponies that they ride up anywhere, only condescending to dismount for
+very steep descents. And accidents often happen when horse or man, or
+even both, are killed; but this presumable laziness affords no example
+to others.
+
+About five p.m. we began anxiously inquiring the whereabouts of our
+night quarters. The usual Montenegrin _quart d'heure_ was given--and
+rightly enough. A sharp descent, lasting over an hour, made painfully
+on foot, saw us in a great hollow basin among the mountains, with the
+pretty lake of Rikavac at the further end and a small collection of
+wooden huts.
+
+To these we proceeded and were met by the village Fathers. Dr. S. was
+well known here and they had recognised him coming down. Five dear old
+boys they were, who kissed Dr. S. most affectionately, one unshaven
+old ruffian including me in his salute. I do not appreciate the
+Montenegrin custom of kissing among men; it is not pleasant. An empty
+hut was immediately put at our disposal. It was the most primitive
+and tumble-down habitation that we had had as yet. Of course it
+rained. It was almost the first rain on the trip, and we had to lie up
+here a whole day as P. was unwell and unable to ride. Everyone turned
+out to make the hut comfortable, but it was not a success. I lay down
+outside and promptly fell asleep, when a sharp thunderstorm came on
+and drove me inside. There was not a dry corner to be found. The rain
+came through in steady rivulets everywhere. There was no getting away
+from those persistent little streams, either head, body, or feet had
+to suffer--and the fire refused to burn. Added to that, the whole
+population crowded in to look at us. It was no fun at all Stephan
+stood cursing in German that he could not get near the fire to cook,
+and that he would not cook at all if the mob were not cleared out.
+This Dr. S. refused to allow, as it would be considered inhospitable.
+
+In course of time the rain stopped and our visitors left us, but only
+temporarily. Stephan cooked and we went outside to dry ourselves. The
+food was then ready, and after putting away a good meal we were able
+to view the world with more equanimity.
+
+After supper it came on to rain again and damped us thoroughly before
+going to bed. I was very annoyed to find, after having discovered as I
+fondly imagined a dry corner, that one of my pockets was full of
+water. I should not have been so irritated had my tobacco been in
+another pocket; it was a leather coat and held the water beautifully.
+Then we tried to go to sleep. My pillow was a stone, like Jacob's, and
+though I tried covering it with my coat it was of no avail, since the
+cold forced me to put it on again. I do not mind a hard bed, but a
+hard pillow is distinctly objectionable. We were just on the point of
+sleeping when in stalked two men for an after-supper smoke and chat,
+and one of them, to P.'s intense disgust, sat on his feet. It cost Dr.
+S. all his diplomacy to hint that we had been up since three a.m. and
+were disinclined to talk.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+More memorial stones--We get wet again--Unwilling hosts--A fall--The
+Franciscan of Zatrijebac--The ravine of the Zem--Methods of settling
+tribal differences--A change of diet and more pleasant evenings--A
+fatalist--Sunday morning.
+
+
+Punctually at eight a.m. next morning we took an affectionate farewell
+of the Fathers, though I mounted hurriedly first to avoid the
+repetition of the welcoming chaste salute.
+
+Our path lay for two hours over a rocky and barren country similar to
+the naked Katunska district round Cetinje. Gone were the rich green
+pasturages and wooded valleys in exchange for a waste of grey rocks.
+But a large wood was ultimately reached, only a little less dangerous
+than the wood of Vucipotok. Similar precautions were observed in
+passing through--in fact, our carbines were carried loaded again all
+day. The Albanian border was never more than a rifle-shot away.
+Numerous gentle reminders of the dangers of the path existed in the
+shape of memorial stones all the way along. We met several families,
+all fully armed of course, driving their flocks before them to the
+mountain grazing-grounds of the Kom.
+
+It was about one o'clock when we emerged on a large barren plateau.
+On the further side, just across the border, lay the Albanian village
+of Korito, which Dr. S. knew, and where we intended spending the rest
+of the day and night.
+
+Half-way across, a sudden storm of rain and hail came down, and I have
+never got wet through so quickly in my life. Within five minutes, the
+water was running out of my boots. My leather coat, though waterproof,
+let regular rivers down my neck. It was a rain that would not be
+denied, and icy cold.
+
+In that waterspout we sat and waited while Dr. S. hunted up his
+friends; but apparently they had all left, with their flocks. A few
+Albanians appeared, and by the dint of much persuasion Dr. S. induced
+them to show us an empty hut. As soon as they had done this they left
+us, looking at us in an unfriendly and suspicious manner. We got our
+baggage in as quickly as possible, and by this time we were shivering
+with cold. No wood could be seen, and Dr. S. again sallied forth, and
+by the aid of small bribes some wood was brought and we soon had a
+fire burning.
+
+However, our natural buoyancy rose again with the fire, and we made a
+very light meal off the food that we had with us. It was not more than
+a few mouthfuls apiece, but nothing could be got here. Then we
+solemnly stood round the fire and dried ourselves, the steam rising
+like pillars of cloud, and hiding our figures from each other. The
+warmth was very agreeable and comforting.
+
+Several Albanians now crowded in, examining our arms, and were so
+unfriendly, not to say threatening, that we hastily reconsidered our
+plans. Firstly and foremostly, we had no food, watch would have to be
+kept all the time, over the horses and at the hut, using up two men,
+so the prospect was not pleasing.
+
+So we saddled up and left about three for Zatrijebac, four hours'
+distance, happy to be rid of our unwilling hosts.
+
+The difference between the treatment of strangers by Albanians and
+Montenegrins was very marked.[5]
+
+Our path led us through the great wood of Kostice, and, owing to the
+recent heavy rain, the track, never very plain, was in parts entirely
+obliterated. Twice we lost ourselves, and once more a drenching shower
+came on, repeating the morning douche. Still we plodded on with
+stumbling horses over the slippery way till we emerged on the great
+plain or plateau of Zatrijebac. Zatrijebac is an Albanian clan several
+thousand strong who live under Montenegrin rule. They serve as
+Montenegrin subjects in the army, give no trouble except in occasional
+border fights with rival Albanian clans, and their bravery is
+proverbial. Further, they are Roman Catholics. The country is most
+curious, great slabs of stone lying about in a promiscuous fashion as
+if it had once rained them, and the path was certainly the most vile
+of the whole trip, which is putting it as strongly as possible.
+
+[Footnote 5: I have since learnt differently.--R.W.]
+
+It was climbing or rather scaling a small rock that my long-expected
+fall came. Alat, my horse, floundered badly at an angle of forty-five
+degrees and lost his balance completely. The doctor, who was behind,
+shouted to me to pull him up, but as I was sliding off his back with a
+broken girth at an ever-increasing velocity, I was unable to follow
+this very excellent advice. Down I came heavily on the stones, luckily
+on the high side of the path, landing on my back with my legs all
+mixed up in Alat's. My saddle and saddlebags followed me in quick
+succession, and something hit me violently over the head--that was my
+carbine. Providentially Alat stood still, and my cartridge belt saved
+my back.
+
+I got up when I could sort out my legs, making remarks to Dr. S. about
+that girth which he said afterwards were quite artistic. Many, many
+years ago the girth may have been good and strong, and it had
+undoubtedly seen better days. Next I sought one named Stephan. He had
+always assured me that it would last another week. Montenegrins are
+careless about such things.
+
+The rest of the way I had to walk, which dried me, as the path was
+steep and tiring. At the house of Dr. S. in Podgorica we had met a
+young Franciscan monk, a Neapolitan and a great student. He at once
+invited us to visit him in Zatrijebac, where he is the spiritual
+shepherd, and to spend a few weeks with him. On approaching a roofless
+church, in the course of rebuilding, we espied this young monk rushing
+to meet us. With all the fervour of his race, he embraced and kissed
+us repeatedly, welcoming us to his home. He gave me his bed, and the
+other remaining one was put at P.'s disposal, and he would not hear of
+our leaving next day or the next.
+
+There are but two other Roman Catholic churches in Montenegro, in
+Antivari and Dulcigno,[6] in fact only where the Albanians are in
+sufficient evidence.
+
+[Footnote 6: The Austrian Legation in Cetinje has also its own
+chapel.]
+
+We had intended to visit Zatrijebac at the beginning of our mountain
+tour, but the district was considered unsafe at that time. A quarrel
+over the appointment of a new captain had led to the relations of the
+disappointed candidate shooting the brother of the new captain. Two
+boys, aged fifteen and sixteen respectively, had ambushed their
+victim, and put no less than seven bullets into him at a distance of
+four hundred yards, which is pretty good shooting. The boys got away
+across the border, but wholesale arrests took place, and it is not
+well to visit districts thus excited. The young Franciscan repeated
+to us the story that evening round the kitchen fire, where we spent
+very many happy hours. He spoke of it sadly.
+
+"The vendetta is a terrible thing," he said. "It respects neither the
+laws of God nor man."
+
+Our host would not rest till he had shown me the famous view, and Dr.
+S. accompanied us. As one stands outside the church, a magnificent
+panorama is spread out, seemingly without a break. But should one wish
+to ascend the mountains opposite so temptingly near, a great ravine
+must be first descended. Ten minutes' walk brings one to the edge of a
+precipice 2,400 feet deep, so appalling and so sudden that one's
+breath is momentarily taken away. It is a spot to sit and meditate on
+the grandeur of the work of the Master of all architects. The majesty
+of that mighty ravine is, indeed, awe-inspiring.
+
+At the bottom, a mere tiny thread, flows the Zem, a river which has
+often run blood, and whose source is hardly known as it rises in the
+unknown Procletia, "the Accursed Mountains" of history. A wall of
+mountains rises beyond. Steep and precipitous as is the descent on the
+Zatrijebac side, still a path trodden daily by mountaineers winds and
+zigzags down to the bottom. Then as we seated ourselves on a carefully
+selected and safe ledge and gazed on this unique picture, the monk
+told us of a bloody battle fought not so very many years ago by the
+men of Zatrijebac and the clan of Hotti who inhabit the opposite
+mountains. It was a quaint illustration how questions of boundary
+lines are settled without the aid of expensive Courts of Arbitration.
+
+When the new frontier was laid down at the conclusion of the late war,
+the River Zem was Montenegro's limit. On the hill beyond lies a
+grazing-ground which has been used as a summer pasturage by the
+Zatrijebac from times immemorial. Though technically now belonging to
+Albania, and in particular to the clan of Hotti, the Zatrijebac still
+continued to drive their flocks across the ravine. The Hotti
+remonstrated, and finding this of no avail, took possession of the
+plateau. Their opponents coming over found the rival clan posted in a
+seemingly impregnable position on every point of vantage on that steep
+ascent. Though armed with inferior rifles (in those days), they
+attacked at once, and by reckless bravery came to hand-to-hand
+conflict. Then a terrible encounter ensued, men seized each other and
+threw themselves over the cliffs, and to complete the utter
+discomfiture of the Hotti, the Kuc came to the assistance of their
+neighbours and the Hotti were nearly annihilated. Since then no
+questions have been asked, and annually the cattle and sheep of
+Zatrijebac graze in peace in Albania.
+
+It was a very similar dispute which has happened so very recently at
+Mokra near Andrijevica.[7]
+
+Supper gave us a much needed change of diet. Boiled fowl and
+vegetables came as a luxury after days of tough and stringy lamb. We
+sat at a table again too, on chairs, and felt quite ashamed of our
+recently acquired habits.
+
+The evenings round the kitchen fire were just as delightful as our hut
+experiences, and if possible, more novel. Here we had fierce
+Albanians, with their half-shaven heads and scalping lock, and a
+scholar, a student of philosophy, a man of wonderful ideals, in the
+form of the young Franciscan, instead of unkempt shepherds.
+
+[Footnote 7: Since writing the above another tribal disturbance has
+taken place between the Zatrijebac and the Hotti. This time it was the
+Hotti who drove their flocks, also from time immemorial, to a certain
+spot in Zatrijebac, and as the latter tribe have since cultivated the
+intervening ground, they felt justly irritated. As the only real
+argument is the rifle, they met and argued the point in this fashion
+in February, 1902, and many fell on both sides. A notable incident
+which is worth recording is, that a man of Hotti fought on the side of
+the Zatrijebac against his brethren and was killed. His body was
+afterwards handed back and his clan demanded to know if he had fought
+as a man. "In the front rank," was the answer. Then they took the body
+and gave it an honourable burial and agreed to let the dispute drop.
+In this action our friend the monk had his habit riddled with bullets
+whilst attending the wounded.]
+
+Round the fire another evening an argument as to the wrongs of
+Fatalism, _i.e._ God's Will, led to a characteristic story by the monk
+in defence of his views. Dr. S., like many men who lead such lives as
+he does, was a rigid fatalist.
+
+An Albanian found his enemy in vendetta, working in a field. Hiding
+himself, he prayed to God and S. Nicholas to direct the bullet.
+
+"Lord," he prayed, "should I hit this man in the breast, then I shall
+know that I do this deed by Thy Will."
+
+He laid his rifle on a stone, took careful aim, and the other fell
+dead shot through the breast.
+
+"By God's Will I killed him," he answered, when the priest endeavoured
+to impress upon him his crime.
+
+The lighter side of nature was given us by another story.
+
+Shortly after the priest's arrival at Zatrijebac a half-naked man came
+to him. The worthy friar took pity on him and gave him a clean white
+shirt of his own.
+
+On the following Sunday during the Mass, as he turned to his
+congregation to give the Benediction, to his horror he saw the man
+with the shirt drawn over all his ragged clothes, in a front row. It
+was with the greatest difficulty, he concluded, that he could restrain
+a smile.
+
+We were afforded a novel and striking scene before we left Zatrijebac
+in the form of an open-air Mass on Sunday.
+
+The church being in the course of rebuilding, a rough altar had been
+hastily constructed, or rather knocked up--for it was of most crude
+workmanship--of wood planks on a small grass plot.
+
+From nine a.m. onwards the people began to assemble, coming from all
+parts of the large and straggling district, and sat about in groups
+gravely talking. Towards eleven o'clock a large number of peasants had
+arrived, and the altar was covered with not a fair white cloth as
+usual, but with something suspiciously resembling a long and not
+overclean towel. A tiny crucifix was placed upon it, and the young
+priest robed himself there in sight of the whole congregation.
+
+A group of elder men knelt or squatted on the small open space
+immediately in front of the High Altar, but the majority of
+worshippers ranged themselves under the shade of some small trees and
+on the low surrounding walls.
+
+These same trees bear weekly a strange and incongruous fruit, for they
+are used as pegs whereon the Albanians hang their rifles during
+service. All round, the walls are stacked with rifles, for, like the
+Puritans of old, they come to church fully armed with rifle, handjar,
+and revolver, and round their waists, the inevitable bandolier of
+cartridges.
+
+[Illustration: AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAC]
+
+On approaching the altar every man pushed back the cloth which is
+swathed round his half-shaven head, and kneeling, piously crossed
+himself. The older men displayed even more reverence, and kissed
+the earth. The younger men were much the same as their cultured and
+civilised brothers, lounging through the service, half seated on a
+wall, and barely crossing themselves.
+
+But the general effect was one of great reverence and striking in the
+extreme. We watched this strange congregation with great interest, and
+during the most sacred part of the service, when all, even the blas�
+young men, prostrated themselves, the effect was unique.
+
+Picture a cut-throat, shave half his head, leaving a tuft of hair on
+the back by which he kindly assists his victor to decapitate him,
+expecting a like consideration in return, long drooping moustachios,
+clad in Turkish clothes, a belt full of cartridges, with revolver and
+murderous-looking yataghan artistically displayed--of such was this
+congregation. Men who half-an-hour afterwards would shoot an enemy in
+the course of a vendetta, or otherwise, without any thought of
+remorse. Yes, and coolly cut off his head and bring it home to his
+admiring wife and daughters, now so discreetly and respectfully
+kneeling behind them. This is not an over-drawn picture. It happens
+often.
+
+Of such consisted the congregation under the green trees, blue sky,
+brilliant sunshine, in that perfect landscape this Sunday morning. And
+of such is peopled a part of the vast country of Albania. A people
+who hold human life as nothing--a reckless and brave nation of devout
+Roman Catholics.
+
+At the conclusion of the service we came in for a lot of inspection,
+and going in to dine soon afterwards we chanced to look out of the
+window overlooking the scene of the morning Mass. Still a great crowd
+hung about, and on the late High Altar sat men smoking cigarettes.
+After dinner we bade farewell to our young host, amidst honest regrets
+on both sides. The Franciscan had given us a new insight into the
+mysteries of life.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Keco's story--The laws
+of Vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
+Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
+birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly.
+
+
+"At Fundina," said Dr. S., "you will meet one of the modern heroes of
+Montenegro. A man named Keco, whose fame has reached to the uttermost
+ends of the land."
+
+We had bidden farewell to our host and were riding past the last
+houses and huts of the clan of Zatrijebac on our way to Fundina. The
+path tended downwards, and shortly the great plain of the Zeta burst
+suddenly into view as we rounded a corner of the mountains. Beyond lay
+the Lake of Scutari with its background of mountains.
+
+It was early in the evening when we reined in our horses before a
+modest stone house and dismounted. It was Fundina, a straggling
+village built on the sloping sides of a mountain from which it takes
+its name.
+
+Voivoda Marko, the hero of Medun, defeated the Turks on these slopes
+in the first engagement of the last war, successfully inaugurating
+the campaigning which secured to Montenegro all the territory through
+which we had been riding for so many weeks, including the towns of
+Podgorica and Niksic, and the great valley now stretched at our feet.
+
+Podgorica lies like an oasis of green trees on the rolling, but
+treeless, plain.
+
+The Albanian border is but a rifle-shot away, and the village of Dinos
+and the fortress of Tusi are plainly to be seen.
+
+We decided to spend the night here and hear Keco's story, though
+Podgorica was only three hours' distance. It would be a fitting finish
+to our mountain tour to sleep on the battlefield of Fundina, and in
+the house of a modern hero.
+
+"I warn you," remarked the doctor, "that Keco much belies his deeds by
+his appearance."
+
+Keco was not in his house when we arrived, and we had our ceremonial
+and inevitable black coffee brought to us on a small natural platform
+of rock overlooking the magnificent valley.
+
+Shortly afterwards a small and insignificant man approached us, with
+haggard looks and grey hair. He greeted the doctor effusively.
+
+"This is Keco," said Dr. S.
+
+As he took the tobacco tin which was proffered him his hands trembled
+so excessively that the rolling of a cigarette was a work of art.
+
+"His nerves are gone," explained the doctor. "He lives in hourly
+danger of his life."
+
+Keco soon left us to prepare our meal and quarters for the night, and
+it was not till after supper, when we were seated round the fire in
+his little house and smoking, that he would consent to tell his story.
+Even then he spoke at first reluctantly, but soon warmed to his
+subject. His wife was always present and looked anxious. Several men
+were in the room.
+
+"Though my hands tremble and my hair is growing white," he began, "yet
+I do not fear death. We must all die, and I know that my fate must
+speedily overtake me. This house I have built for my wife, and stocked
+with what money I had, to provide for her. They shall not kill me
+easily. Twice have they tried. The first time I was in the fields when
+men fired at me from a long distance. I took my rifle and made a
+d�tour, and, as my enemies recrossed the border, I was there waiting
+for them. But I did not hit one. Another time seven men hid themselves
+only thirty yards away from my house, in the evening, but they dared
+not shoot then, for my wife was by my side."
+
+"You know," explained the doctor, "the life of a woman is sacred;
+should a woman by the greatest accident shoot a man, the vendetta
+falls on her husband--she may not be touched; or, should a woman be
+killed in a vendetta, even by the merest accident, the shame would be
+unspeakable. The murderers and their families, or even their clan,
+would be blotted out, for in such revenge all would join. Keco's wife
+never leaves his side after dusk, and, you see, she has saved his life
+once already within his knowledge; who knows how often unawares?"
+
+"Tell us the origin of thy blood-guiltiness," said we. Dr. S. had told
+us the story, but we wished to hear it from his lips.
+
+"I had a cow which was my pride," went on Keco. "She yielded more milk
+than any other cow and of a far better quality. Men praised the milk
+and the cheese when I took it to the market in Podgorica for sale, and
+none more than Achmet, a Turk from Dinos.
+
+"One morning I went to milk my cow, and could find her nowhere. My
+most treasured possession was gone. I searched for her all that day
+and the next on the mountain sides, but in vain. On the next market
+day as I wandered gloomily across the market-place of Podgorica,
+Achmet, the Turk, accosted me.
+
+"'Where is thy milk?' he asked, 'which is so wonderful, and where are
+thy marvellous cheeses?'
+
+"I replied that I knew not, and would have passed on.
+
+"'Make thy mind easy,' continued Achmet, an evil smile spreading over
+his face, 'for I have thy cow.'
+
+"'Ah! she has strayed across the border,' I cried. 'Thank God she is
+found.'
+
+"'She strayed across the border,' said Achmet, 'but under my guidance.
+Thou hast not lied. Her milk is indeed of the good quality that thou
+hast boasted. For a Christian dog like thee she is far too good.'
+
+"To this hour I wonder that I did not strike him dead. My rage
+rendered me powerless to move or see. It was as if a black cloud
+descended over my eyes. When I recovered, Achmet was gone.
+
+"For many weeks I went to the Law Court whenever I visited the market,
+demanding the restitution of my cow by legal means, and each time was
+I put off by answers and promises. And Achmet was always on the
+market-place taunting me with tales of the cow and her calf. For she
+had calved. But the law is strict, and I never dared shoot him whilst
+in the town, and this the coward knew.
+
+"When I saw that I should get no help from the law, I took two men
+from this village. They are here in this room," he said, pointing to
+two men seated near us. "And one morning I went across to Dinos. I did
+not go at night, like the thief, but when the sun was highest, and
+when all could see me. I left my comrades outside Achmet's house, and
+went in alone. There I found my cow and her calf, but only the women
+were present. So I drove the cow and the calf out of the door towards
+my comrades. Then, lest any should think that I was afraid, I fired my
+rifle into the air. Very soon the men came running from the fields,
+and amongst them Achmet and his son. When they saw me and my cow, they
+came towards me firing, but being unsteady from running, the bullets
+flew wide. Then I took careful aim and shot Achmet dead, and then his
+son. We then ran quickly, and though men pursued us, they were afraid
+to come too near lest I should shoot them likewise, and so we came
+back to Fundina in safety. Since then the men of Dinos wait for me,
+and they will kill me soon, for the insult is very great that I have
+put upon them, and the fame of my deed has travelled into all lands."
+As he said this his eyes lit with fire, and the spirit of heroism
+shone out in the seemingly timid-looking man.
+
+"Must thou stay here, in Fundina?" I asked, "where thy enemies are so
+near. Why not go to Cetinje or Niksic?"
+
+"Men know me for a hero," he answered proudly. "What would they say if
+I ran away and sought safety elsewhere? I should be a double coward,
+for I should leave my brothers to inherit my fate. No, I shall wait
+here till they come, and they shall not find me unprepared or
+sleeping. See, every night I make my bed in a different place,
+sometimes in one room of the house, sometimes in the bushes outside.
+They never know where I shall sleep, for these dogs love to kill their
+enemy in the night."
+
+Silence fell upon us as Keco finished. The wood fire crackled and
+flickered, lighting up fitfully the serious faces of the men sitting
+round.
+
+Half guessing our thoughts, Keco said--
+
+"To-night no attack will be made. We shall keep guard outside."
+
+We felt abashed. We confess thoughts of a nocturnal assassination had
+not pleased us, and yet these wild mountaineers had already provided
+for such a contingency. When we went outside the house before turning
+in, Dr. S. pointed out the figure of a motionless sentinel leaning on
+his rifle some little distance away.
+
+"It is odd that the women are so respected," I remarked to the doctor,
+"when no other law seems recognised. Do they never take part in a
+vendetta?"
+
+"Never as a woman," said the doctor. "If it should happen that a woman
+is the last surviving member of a family, the rest having been killed
+in a vendetta, she may continue the feud, but as a man. She then
+assumes the clothes of the opposite sex, procures arms and cuts
+herself off from the world, living as a hermit. Do you remember that
+Albanian woman at Easter time in Podgorica who kissed me so
+fervently?"
+
+We nodded, for we had been much amused at the scene. A wild-looking,
+unkempt Albanian woman had kissed the doctor most effusively.
+
+"Though she had assumed the woman's garb for the Easter festival, she
+is to all intents and purposes a man, and hence the man's kiss of
+peace. She then asked me for a revolver which I had promised her some
+time ago."
+
+We turned in soon after, but not before we heard another story.
+
+Two cairns on the road to Plavnica, and but half an hour from
+Podgorica, had often been pointed out to us. They were erected to the
+memory of an attack made on four gendarmes in connection with a
+long-standing vendetta. A party of Albanians had hidden themselves in
+two hollows beside the main road at night and as the gendarmes passed
+they fired into them, killing one and badly wounding two others. This
+happened shortly before our arrival.
+
+Another scene had been enacted a few days ago which they now related
+to us, to prevent us perhaps thinking too much of Keco's story, and
+dreaming of it.
+
+The men of the Zeta had sworn revenge for the death of their gendarme,
+a famous man and great favourite, but at the time Prince Nicolas had
+sternly forbidden reprisals. But such things are not forgotten, and a
+man had crossed the Zem into Albania. Coming on a party of men working
+in a field, he had fired, but his aim was unsteady, and he only
+wounded his intended victim slightly. Then he fled, hotly pursued, and
+received a bad wound as he crossed an open space. Still he managed to
+elude his pursuers for the time being, and reached the River Zem. Here
+his strength failed him and he clung, half fainting from loss of
+blood, to the bushes fringing the bank, unable to go any further. In
+this position a man of the clan Hotti found him, as he was coming
+along the river. Having heard the shots and seeing a bleeding
+Montenegrin, he put two and two together and promptly shot him. The
+other Albanians, directed by the report, now came up, and literally
+hacked the corpse to pieces. So the Zeta peasants are now two deaths
+to the bad. In conclusion, we were told that the authorities have
+reason to believe that the murdered man had been accompanied by others
+on his raid into a friendly country and were seeking for these men
+most diligently to punish them severely.
+
+For their violating the border laws?
+
+No, for deserting their comrade, and leaving him to meet his death
+alone, and the sentence for this craven deed is ten years.
+
+Next morning we rode into Podgorica, and comparative civilisation,
+after a period of roughing it of the hardest description. We had often
+gone from five a.m. till seven or eight p.m. on a couple of eggs and
+an occasional glass of milk, and had hard going all the time. It
+proved to us pretty conclusively how we of civilised lands
+disgustingly and habitually overeat ourselves.
+
+We finished considerably harder and more fit than at the start, and we
+had lived the whole time as the Montenegrins of the mountains live.
+
+One remarkable gift of which these mountaineers are possessed, and
+which deserves special remark, is that of long-distance talking. Men
+can speak with each other in the higher altitudes at distances of five
+miles and more, where our ears could hardly distinguish a faint sound
+of the human voice. Children are accustomed to it at an early age, and
+the quaint sight of a mother conversing with her child guarding some
+sheep on a neighbouring hillside is often to be witnessed. This gift
+must be acquired young, it seems, for Dr. S., who has lived twelve
+years amongst the Montenegrins, could neither make himself heard, nor
+understand, though he said that he had given himself much pains to
+learn the art.
+
+As we rode into Podgorica that morning, we were struck by meeting
+several groups of the Turkish inhabitants hanging about outside the
+town. Arriving in the town, only Montenegrins were to be seen in the
+streets, walking somewhat ostentatiously up and down, their natural
+swagger greatly exaggerated. The news of the elopement of another
+Turkish maiden soon reached us, and that day at dinner, an officer,
+detailed to prove the matter, told us the story.
+
+A young Montenegrin had won the heart of the maiden, and accompanied
+by a friend, he had gone to the wall of her house and given a
+preconcerted signal. The girl had come, but a dispute now arose
+between the men as to who should ultimately marry her, and she, in
+great disgust, had told them to go away and settle the matter. It
+seems that the girl had no particular wishes as to whom she should
+marry. At last the friends arranged matters satisfactorily and the
+girl was abducted, if one can call an elopement an abduction. However,
+in the eyes of the Turks it was a forcible abduction, and the fact
+that the girl was related to the most influential Turk in the town did
+not improve matters. The Beg had demanded the restitution of the girl
+at once and punishment of the offenders. The Prince had sent officials
+to settle the dispute. The girl, however, very naturally refused to be
+given back, as she would probably have been killed, and insisted on
+her baptism and marriage taking place forthwith.
+
+As the officer said to us--
+
+"This is a free country, and we shall not give back the maiden against
+her will."
+
+This had incensed the Turks beyond measure. The town was being
+patrolled nightly, and the Beg attempted flight to mark his anger. But
+this the Prince would not allow, and the Beg was stopped by gendarmes
+as he was entering a carriage one night. Only if he first gave up his
+orders, decorations, and his sword of honour, and, furthermore, took
+his wives and belongings with him, could he leave the country.
+
+Such was the state of affairs on our return. At night we went armed,
+and really had hopes of seeing a street fight. One evening a shot was
+fired in the town, and in the twinkling of an eye men turned out rifle
+in hand. Nothing came of it, and the crowd of several hundred armed
+Montenegrins slowly dispersed. Had further shots been fired, we were
+told, the peasants from far and near would have taken up the alarm,
+and in an hour thousands would have flocked into the town. No wonder
+the Turks were chary of taking revenge into their own hands.[8]
+
+[Footnote 8: Again, since writing the above, this statement has been
+fully proved. In February, 1902, a party of Turkish soldiers, half
+starved in their frontier block-houses, attempted a raid into
+Montenegro. They were accompanied by a brother of the famous Achmet
+Uiko; whose story has been related elsewhere. In spite of the caution
+which the raiders displayed, the news reached Podgorica as soon as
+they had crossed the border and seemingly eluded the vigilance of the
+Montenegrin frontier guards. A party of Montenegrins lay in wait for
+them in Dr. S.'s summer garden (a spot where we had often spent many
+pleasant hours) and the Turks were challenged. As an answer the
+marauders fired at their unseen challengers, doing no harm, but an
+answering volley killed two of them. The rest were captured, one only
+making good his escape, and were brought into the town. But the
+volleys had alarmed the whole district, hundreds of men pouring into
+Podgorica from all the neighbouring villages and hills, till many
+thousands had assembled.
+--Cetinje, March, 1902.]
+
+But the mischief done was great. Many families emigrated, much to
+Prince Nicolas' anger, for he encourages by every means in his power
+the extension of the Turkish population. They bring trade and
+cultivate the lands far more diligently than the Montenegrin warriors.
+
+So it was that we witnessed during these few days the festival of the
+Sultan's birthday, which seemed strangely incongruous considering the
+mixed feelings of the inhabitants.
+
+In the morning, all the town officials called on the Turkish Consul.
+The militia were formed up and the whole, led by the Montenegrin War
+Banner, proceeded in solemn procession to the principal mosque. On
+their return, a royal salute was fired from a bastion of the old wall,
+and in the evening the town was illuminated.
+
+It was an extraordinary sight, and one not easily to be forgotten. All
+the houses stuck candles in every window, by order of the Prince; the
+market-place and the War Memorial were covered with lamps, but the
+most striking feature of all was the illumination on a small hill
+immediately behind the old town. This hill overlooks the town, and was
+covered by rows of lamps. In the streets Turks, Albanians, and
+Montenegrins jostled each other; at peace, at any rate, for one
+evening.
+
+A day or two later, a very different spectacle could have been
+witnessed. The main street leading to the church on the outskirts of
+the town was lined by waiting Montenegrins, and not a Turk was to be
+seen. Soon a carriage drove rapidly from the church, with a blushing
+Montenegrin girl and a gold-embroidered Montenegrin at her side. It
+was the late Turkish maiden, now a radiant Montenegrin bride and
+Christian. Several Turks had been caught endeavouring to approach the
+church with revolvers concealed, but were promptly turned back.
+
+And so ended an eventful week.
+
+One day, quite by accident, we discovered the arrest-house, or place
+where prisoners are detained pending their trial and sentence. We were
+passing a door which led down by a few steps into a courtyard, when an
+acquaintance of ours accosted us.
+
+We went inside and spoke to him for some minutes. He was a merry
+individual and a clerk in a Government office.
+
+He requested us to bring our camera and photograph him on the next
+day. Then he moved and a chain clanked. Neither of us had realised
+that this was a prison till that moment, though we had passed that
+door many times.
+
+Next day we came again, and took a picture of our genial friend, whom
+we found seated and playing the gusla to a crowd of other prisoners,
+some exceedingly heavily chained.
+
+One or two guards came up and we spent an hour in a pleasant chat.
+
+Our friend was only "in" for a few days for making a rude remark about
+the Chief of Police. The chained men were mostly murderers, if we may
+use such a harsh term for those who are compelled to kill their
+enemies by the relentless laws of the vendetta, and who would be
+punished by the laws of man should they prove themselves guilty of
+cowardice.
+
+The vendetta in Montenegro is a legal anomaly. Men are punished in
+either case.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
+costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
+coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
+hermit--A miracle--Niksic--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
+palace--We are disappointed in Niksic.
+
+
+Though we visited the famous Monastery of Ostrog at the very beginning
+of our visit to Montenegro, and Niksic at the conclusion, both places
+lie so near together that we put them now in this order for the sake
+of simplicity.
+
+It was our good fortune to be enabled to witness the annual pilgrimage
+to the shrine of S. Vasili, which takes place during the Greek
+Whitsuntide.
+
+Ostrog is the Lourdes of the Balkans, as many equally miraculous cures
+take place as at the Roman Catholic rival in the Pyrenees. The
+Serb-speaking races from far and near flock there in enormous numbers,
+as well as many Mahometans and Catholics.
+
+S. Vasili (or Basil) was a native of the Hercegovina and a holy man of
+great repute. About a century ago he had a vision telling him to
+travel to Montenegro, and there to found a monastery. Accordingly he
+set out, taking with him a great quantity of building material, and
+chose a spot not far from Podgorica, on the right bank of the Zeta.
+But in the night the material disappeared, and S. Vasili hunted high
+and low. After a weary search it was found at Ostrog, and there he
+built his place of retreat, living many years, working many miracles,
+and dying as a saint. He is buried there, and it is said that any
+believer has but to visit the shrine, and whatever his wish may be, it
+will be fulfilled. Thus cripples have walked back the way which they
+were carried, sick have been made whole, and the mentally afflicted
+have gone away rejoicing. Certain it is that many wonderful cures are
+yearly effected there.
+
+Furthermore, the name of Ostrog appears often in the glorious annals
+of Montenegrin history. The oft-told tale of Prince Nicolas' father,
+Mirko, "The Sword of Montenegro," who was besieged in that
+inaccessible cleft in a precipice with a handful of men, is one of the
+most famous feats of Montenegrin arms. The charred cliffs still bear
+silent witness to the efforts which the Turks made to burn out the
+little garrison by throwing bundles of flaming straw from above.
+
+Ostrog is about six hours' drive from Podgorica. The road passes along
+the River Zeta, leaving the village of Spuz on the right, and past the
+flourishing little town of Danilovgrad, soon to be the connecting
+town between Cetinje and Niksic on completion of the projected road.
+
+There is nothing of interest in Danilovgrad, though the market is of
+some importance. A little way beyond the town a nearly complete
+building can be noticed. It is the lunatic asylum.
+
+From this point onwards the road ascends slowly but steadily until a
+deep valley lies to the right, and the Zeta assumes quite diminutive
+proportions. The mountains opposite rise to an ever-increasing height,
+until a few tiny buildings can be made out by the help of
+field-glasses. It is Ostrog. That morning we could make out the tents
+and booths of the pilgrims, and a dark mass of surging humanity. But
+it is still a very long distance away. The road climbs up to the head
+of the valley to the village of Bogetic, full that morning of the
+carriages of the wealthy pilgrims. During the Whitsun festival
+carriages are scarcely to be procured in the whole of Montenegro, or
+in Cattaro either.
+
+We broke our fast here, and then drove for another mile or so where a
+path leaves the road, and the pilgrim has either to proceed on
+horseback or on foot. We had to go on foot, and a very long and tiring
+walk it proved to be. Besides Dr. S. and his factotum, Lazo, we took
+another man with us, a wretched puny individual, but seemingly
+possessed of more endurance than any of us. He led us by a short cut
+over rocks, and up slippery breakneck walls of cliffs, over which our
+guide skipped nimbly, and having reached the top seemingly hours
+before us, sat down and beamed benevolently.
+
+Half-way, the rain came down in sheets, and we took shelter in a
+wayside inn, or rather hut. It was crowded with returning pilgrims
+whom the threatening weather had forced to depart earlier than is
+their wont.
+
+As the weather momentarily cleared, we pushed on, and the remaining
+distance was one of the most interesting walks it had been our fortune
+to witness. A ceaseless stream of pilgrims poured down the rocky path.
+It came on to rain again, but one and all wished us luck in the name
+of God and S. Vasili. Nearly every costume of the Balkans was
+represented. The Bosnian, in sack-shaped baggy trousers, fitting the
+lower leg, either of crimson or blue cloth, a smart-coloured Turkish
+jacket, a broad shawl round his waist displaying armouries of knives
+and pistols, on his head a fez wound round with a huge turban cloth,
+mounted, or leading a pack-horse; his wife in coarse black trousers;
+the Hercegovinans, with breastplates of silver ornaments, exquisite in
+workmanship and of great antiquity; sombre Servians, and white-clad
+Albanians, whose trousers are embroidered with black braid in
+fantastic tracing; fez, head-cloth, and neat little Montenegrin cap;
+trousers of red, pink, blue and black; gigantic Albanians in high
+riding-boots, sitting their horses like Life Guardsmen; Macedonians,
+Greeks, and even pure-blooded Turks; Montenegrins in creamy white
+frock-coats worn over gold-braided crimson jackets; and dark-blue
+costumes with red worsted tassels of the poor Dalmatian peasants--all
+passed us in bewildering confusion.
+
+The women (who were for the most part Montenegrin) showed up well in
+comparison with their sisters from Sarajevo, whose attire is, to say
+the least, comical. For in the larger towns of the Austrian occupation
+territory they are undergoing the stage from East to West, and appear
+in huge Turkish trousers and cheap, gaudy European blouses. The
+contrast between the Sarajevan and the graceful Montenegrin is
+positively ludicrous. But of all the costumes, male and female, the
+palm must be given to the Montenegrin. They carry themselves with a
+princely air, and their picturesque costume is a model of good taste;
+for Montenegro is, as Mr. Gladstone has remarked, the beach on which
+was thrown up the remnants of Balkan freedom. After the battle of
+Kossovo, all the Serb nobility who would not submit to the Turk fled
+to Crnagora, and the traces of heredity are easily to be recognised in
+their superb carriage.
+
+[Illustration: MONTENEGRIN WOMEN]
+
+It was well after midday when we reached the plateau on which the
+lower and modern monastery is situated. We entered through a gate into
+a wide path bordered with booths in which crowds of joyful pilgrims
+sat refreshing themselves. In spite of the departing crowds that we
+had passed, the place was still densely packed, for over twenty
+thousand people visit Ostrog. We squeezed into one of the booths and
+sat watching the surging mass pass to and fro.
+
+The mixture of costume was even more marked than on the path below. It
+was a brilliant kaleidoscope of colour. Nothing but colour--colour.
+Very rarely could a man in European clothes (the richer Dalmatians) be
+noticed, and he seemed strangely out of place and harmony.
+
+As we sat and gazed, two Bosnian minstrels, from bad memory and an
+indifferent ear, began playing on a fiddle and a guitar, and though
+their music was atrocious, the wild Turkish songs which they sang gave
+the finishing touch to the scene. It was not till they began playing
+snatches of music-hall airs, such long-forgotten tunes as "Daisy,"
+that we hurriedly moved on.
+
+The Archbishop, Mitrofanban, heard of our arrival soon after, and
+immediately sent for us. When we approached, he was sitting on the
+steps of a house, surrounded by a brilliant staff of Montenegrin
+nobles and many priests, while below a great crowd of pilgrims stood
+in a ring, watching the national dance, which was being performed
+before His Grace. The dance stopped as we drew near. The Archbishop
+received us very kindly--this was our first meeting with him--and
+expressed his pleasure to see strangers from such a distant land in
+Ostrog. He assigned a room to us in his house, and gave orders for us
+to be fed during our stay. Murmuring our thanks, we attempted to
+withdraw, but we did not escape before we had solemnly drunk the usual
+coffee. It was rather an ordeal to consume that very hot coffee in the
+face of the multitude, and we were painfully conscious of our many
+shortcomings in personal appearance. Muddy and half-wet riding clothes
+and flannel shirts do not seem to go with crimson and gold, high boots
+of patent leather, and sparkling orders. A Horseguardsman's uniform
+would be more in keeping. When we left, the dancing resumed and was
+kept up till a late hour that night. We noticed another national dance
+at Ostrog. A much more barbaric performance than the stately and
+solemn movement of the ring dance, or kolo.
+
+In this case two performers dance at a time, a man and a woman. A
+small ring is made by the spectators, who also supply the relay
+couples. The man endeavours to spring as high as possible into the
+air, emitting short, Red Indian yells, and firing his revolver. The
+woman gives more decorous jumps; and, keeping opposite each other,
+they leap backwards and forwards across the small open space. After
+a few minutes they are unceremoniously pushed aside, after giving each
+other a hasty kiss, and another couple takes their place. This goes on
+_ad lib._, and we were soothed to sleep by those wild yells.
+
+[Illustration: THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG]
+
+Next morning we were up bright and early, and about seven o'clock
+commenced the actual pilgrimage. A steep and stony path winds up
+through a dense wood for about an hour. Fanatical pilgrims make this
+journey sometimes barefoot, but the ordeal is sufficiently severe
+without these little additions. The whole way is lined with beggars,
+sometimes hardly recognisable as human beings, who must reap a rich
+harvest by the exhibition of their ghastly woes. _They_ constitute the
+ordeal.
+
+Maimed stumps of limbs, deformed children, repulsive and festering
+sores, and other diseases too foul for description were proudly
+exhibited at every step. A cap was placed invitingly in front of each,
+and partly filled with alms already given. In piteous agony diseased
+hands and quavering voices besought us in the name of God and their
+saint to alleviate their sufferings with the gift of a kreutzer. It
+was not a sight that will lightly escape the memory.
+
+We reached the top, hot and nauseated, but were fully compensated by
+the unique view. The monastery is built under an overhanging precipice
+which rises to a giddy height above. The charred rocks bear telling
+evidence to the miracles which have saved the little edifice from
+burning.
+
+We went straight to the shrine, through a little door scarcely more
+than four feet high (the wooden lintels of which being the handiwork
+of S. Vasili were piously kissed by the Montenegrins), through two
+long and narrow passages hewn from the living rock and emerged
+suddenly in a small rock chamber, dimly lit by an oil lamp and about
+twelve feet square. The five of us filled the space, and, as our eyes
+grew accustomed to the gloom, we were able to distinguish a wooden
+shrine taking up the whole length of one side--where the mortal
+remains of the Hercegovinan lay. Another side was occupied by an open
+coffin containing the vestments and crucifix. On a chair sat a Greek
+priest who rose when we entered. At the foot of the shrine lay a
+cripple.
+
+We stood for some minutes in utter silence, and then followed the lead
+of the doctor, who approached the coffin and kissed the crucifix,
+which a priest gave to us all in turn: a plate for alms lay on the
+vestments: then the woodwork of the shrine was likewise kissed, and we
+emerged again into the narrow gallery.
+
+The heat had been intense in the little chapel, and we were in that
+limp and exhausted state that one experiences in a Turkish bath.
+
+[Illustration: THE UPPER MONASTERY]
+
+The gallery was open on one side where a large bell was fixed, and
+this our puny guide struck four times vigorously in the sign of a
+cross without a word of warning.
+
+After the impressive solemnity and silence of the preceding minutes,
+we nearly jumped out of our skins, and when our injured hearing had
+sufficiently recovered so that we could distinguish the sound of our
+own voices, we demanded an explanation of this apparently childish and
+wanton outrage.
+
+He said that he had struck the bell for the renewal of his strength.
+It appeared an unnecessary request.
+
+Dr. S. explained that pilgrims strike the bell on emerging from the
+shrine, praying for some special benefit.
+
+We next went up a lot of steps to a platform under the shelving cliff
+where there was a beautiful spring of water. The view which it
+commanded was magnificent. Below us lay the lower monastery and the
+deep valley of the Zeta, the mountains rising again sharply on the
+further side; to the right and left stretched wooded slopes.
+
+Then we descended again and paid the priest a visit. This man, over
+eighty years of age, has spent forty years of his life as a hermit in
+that rocky crag. With the exception of Whitsuntide and the occasional
+visits of pilgrims, he lives entirely alone, subsisting on vegetables.
+His appearance was most patriarchal, his snowy white beard and
+saintly look impressing us greatly. When he heard that we were from
+England, he embraced and kissed us repeatedly, much to our
+embarrassment. His joy knew no bounds, and he kept us with him in his
+rock-hewn cell for a considerable time. He even consented to be
+photographed, for the first time in his life, facing the ordeal with
+unflinching courage.
+
+The descent to the lower monastery was made in record time, and with
+half-closed eyes. We found the Archbishop standing in the shade of an
+enormous tree surrounded by a large ring of Montenegrins. He beckoned
+to us, asking us for our impressions, and needless to say we solemnly
+drank coffee. This beverage began to pall before we left Montenegro.
+
+After partaking of a splendid meal (for the country), washed down with
+wine such as is not to be obtained elsewhere in the land, we paid a
+farewell visit to His Grace and departed.
+
+Already the booths were fast disappearing and a mere handful of
+peasants remained. Many pilgrims journey from seven to eight days on
+foot or on horseback to Ostrog, over mountain passes and barren
+regions; so that the pilgrimage is very real.
+
+Before we leave Ostrog, we will mention one of the miracles which we
+had the opportunity of authenticating.
+
+A wretched Turk living to-day in Podgorica, a cripple crawling
+painfully on hands and knees, once made the pilgrimage to Ostrog.
+Friends carried him to the shrine, where he lay all night. Then he
+rose up and walked back to Podgorica rejoicing, with those who had
+carried him the day before. As he crossed the Vizier bridge, he
+sceptically remarked that he would have been healed without undergoing
+the farce of the pilgrimage. Straightway he fell to the ground, the
+same helpless cripple that he was before.
+
+The Turk and the witnesses still live--in fact it happened but a few
+years ago--to tell the tale.
+
+The road to Niksic, which we left to proceed to Ostrog, climbs to the
+height of 750 metres in crossing the mountain ridge dividing the
+valley of the Zeta from that of Niksic. The scenery is throughout fine
+and wild. In a succession of serpentines, the road descends sharply on
+to the great plain, the fertile valley of Niksic.
+
+The town can be seen immediately on leaving the mountainous gorge, the
+cupola of the cathedral standing up boldly from the surrounding flat.
+
+A long viaduct is crossed, built by the Russians, at the foot of the
+mountain, for in the winter floods are common, and Niksic was at times
+nearly cut off from the rest of Montenegro.
+
+Niksic is probably the coming capital of Montenegro. In fact, it has
+been but a question of money that has prevented the removal of the
+Government from Cetinje a long time ago.
+
+The Prince has recently built himself a large palace, the Russians
+have erected a large church, and roads are now in the course of
+construction connecting it with Risano on the Bocche di Cattaro, and
+Cetinje, and again with the Cattaro-Cetinje road.
+
+When these roads are completed, Niksic will have a most central
+position, and the unquestionably rich and fertile plain can be opened
+up. Without doubt it is the coming trading centre, and already it is
+running Podgorica very close.
+
+The day after our arrival--we had arrived in the night--we saw the
+town under most unfavourable conditions. A violent thunderstorm had
+raged incessantly for many hours, and the streets were in parts
+inundated. Water was pouring in miniature waterfalls from the ground
+floors of many houses which possessed a higher background. Braving the
+elements, and often making detours to avoid the lakes, we walked to
+the palace and the church. Both lie together outside the town.
+
+A flight of steps lead up an artificial mound, over-shadowing the
+somewhat barrack-like palace, where stands the new cathedral. It is
+the most striking edifice in the whole country, surmounted with a
+dingy light yellow cupola. It is not pretty or tasteful, but it is
+distinctly imposing, and one can well realise the marvellings that
+it has given the simple Montenegrins. Inside it is severely plain and
+void of any furniture, except the thrones for the Royal Family. Round
+the walls are lists of the men who have fallen in recent wars.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH, NIKSIC]
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH AND PALACE]
+
+The platform on which the church stands commands a view of the
+country. The simplicity of Prince Nicolas' palace is thus accentuated,
+for it is situated on perfectly open ground, and there is no garden or
+any railings round it. Naked and forlorn, it gives the spectator a sad
+impression of poverty. On another side is the old Church of Niksic,
+ridiculously small and half-ruined. The Russians did a good deed, for
+the comparison is absolutely absurd if a comparison can be drawn
+between a hovel and a S. Peter's.
+
+The town is a long straggling collection of small houses, very
+uninteresting and plain, and beyond lies the historical ruin of the
+old fortress, stormed by Prince Nicolas in person.
+
+In the town itself, broad streets and an enormous market-place are the
+only features.
+
+We spent a few days in Niksic, but in this instance we were never able
+to rid ourselves of the first impressions, and we left gladly, though
+the town was not without its humour. It contains the only brewery in
+Montenegro, a ramshackle place and producing very poor beer. The post
+office is a tumble-down outhouse, also we were shown the house which
+would in the course of time be the Bank of Montenegro.
+
+It is hard to realise that Niksic is the coming town, in spite of its
+gaudy cathedral, but progress makes sometimes wonderful strides.
+
+Our visit to Niksic was a failure all round. We arrived to see the
+Prince ride out of the town at the head of a great cavalcade for the
+mountains, and again missed the opportunity of presenting ourselves.
+
+Our intended tour to the Durmitor, Montenegro's highest mountain, was
+frustrated, owing to the Prince's retinue having taken every horse in
+the place, in addition to the weather having completely broken up, and
+so we missed one of the finest parts of the country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
+of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
+subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
+of infancy--A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
+a memorable drive--A fervent prayer.
+
+
+Before we leave Podgorica for good our readers must be introduced to
+the Club. It was not a club in the English sense of the word, but P.
+and I always called that hour or two at sunset so delightfully spent
+in the company of that cosmopolitan gathering, the Club. Podgorica was
+our base, from which we made all our trips and excursions, so that we
+were there off and on during the whole of our lengthy sojourn amongst
+the sons of the Black Mountain. From the "members" we gleaned many
+stories of past and present vendettas and quaint customs which we had
+not had the good fortune to witness ourselves. Amongst the regular
+members was of course Dr. S., who was three nationalities rolled into
+one--to explain, born in Roumania, he entered into Austrian service
+and became an Austrian subject, and finally twelve years in Montenegro
+had quite "Montenegrinised" him. He was very angry if we told him
+this. In the course of his duties as sole veterinary surgeon he had
+travelled, and travelled continually from one end of the land to the
+other, there was not a corner or collection of huts where he had not
+been. He had been snowed up in winter in the mountains, attacked by
+wolves, and shot at by Albanians, and had witnessed many a scene of
+the vendetta.
+
+Another even more interesting character was L., an Austrian, who for
+years had been employed by scientific institutions in ornithological
+and geological research in Montenegro and Albania. He had carried his
+life in his hands for weeks together amongst the untameable
+mountaineers across the border. A man whose terribly hard life had
+turned him into a man of bone and muscle, rivalling the most active
+Montenegrin in strength and endurance. And what a fund of anecdote and
+adventure he could reel off! Without doubt he was one of the most
+interesting and fascinating men we have ever met; a perfect rifle,
+gun, and revolver shot, fine horseman and entertaining companion.
+
+Then there was a Montenegrin professor, he was the father of the
+party, though the tales _he_ told were not at all becoming to his age
+and learning. He spoke about eight languages well and perhaps that had
+slightly turned his brain. Once he had served a term of imprisonment
+for an outspoken criticism, and when he became tired of it, he sent
+an ultimatum to the effect that if he were not released at once, he
+would break out himself, take a rifle and bundle of cartridges and
+hold the Lovcen (a high mountain) against all comers. The originality
+of his threat gained him his freedom. Since then he has kept a closer
+guard over that unruly member and only unburdened himself in the
+seclusion of the Club. Otherwise P., myself, and a young and intensely
+patriotic Scotchman completed the list of regular members.
+
+We had a few occasional "country members," officers and officials whom
+some of us knew well from Cetinje or Niksic, but we were mostly alone.
+At first we met in the garden of one Petri, a good-tempered giant of
+about six feet eight inches, but in spite of our patronage he managed
+to ruin himself at cards and so we were forced to adjourn to an old
+Albanian rascal named Gugga. What fun we had with that dear old boy,
+whom we irreverently called Skenderbeg! One day in a moment of
+ill-advised confidence he had told us that he was descended from that
+great Albanian hero and patriot. But he was an educated and travelled
+man, having lived for many years in Venice, spoke an excellent Italian
+and correspondingly atrocious German, which latter he delighted to
+inflict upon us. He was most amusing in his hatred and contempt of the
+Montenegrin peasant.
+
+Gugga kept a big shop, and when irritated by a customer he had a
+regular formula which loses much of its wit when translated, as it
+rhymes in Serb. The humble Montenegrin is remarkably feminine in the
+way he shops. He will spend half an hour in the store examining
+everything with great curiosity. At last he will ask the price of a
+certain article. Gugga, whose choler has been slowly rising during his
+customer's long and tiring inspection, gives a purposely indistinct
+answer, whereupon the Montenegrin will inquire "What does he say?"
+Gugga, furious at being spoken to in the third person, turns savagely
+upon the astonished Montenegrin saying--
+
+"What dost thou say? What dost thou mean?
+ What stinks here? Get out, ass and son of an ass."
+
+Another famous saying of his was in speaking of Montenegro, its past
+and present rulers. "This land," Gugga would say in all seriousness,
+"was first accursed by God, its maker; then by Diocletian, then by the
+Sultan, then by our Gospodar (Prince), and lastly by Gospodin
+Milovan." Gospodin (Mr.) Milovan was the last Governor of Podgorica, a
+man always endeavouring to introduce modern improvements into the
+town, much to the disgust of its inhabitants who are nothing if not
+conservative, and amongst other sufferers was our friend Gugga. He
+substitutes the word "blessed" for "accursed," according to his
+audience.
+
+We met after the arrival of the mail diligence from Cetinje about
+half-past six or seven o'clock in the evening. Proceedings usually
+commenced with a heated argument as to the time, the last comer being
+accused of unpunctuality. It was always an unsatisfactory argument,
+for no member ever had the same time as another. A sort of
+go-as-you-please time was kept in the town, but as either your watch
+invariably gained ten minutes in the day--according to the town clock
+it did--or lost a quarter of an hour, no one had any confidence in the
+official time, and each swore to the regularity of his own timepiece.
+One great advantage of this discrepancy of time was that try as one
+would, one was never late for an appointment. Somebody was sure to be
+present to back up an indignant protest, that you were five minutes
+early.
+
+One evening was particularly memorable, it was in Petri's garden,
+then, that we had met as usual. P. was in a pensive and sentimental
+mood, usually caused by the magnificent sunsets. From our table we
+commanded a splendid view of those crimson-tinted peaks in the far
+distance, and the mysterious purple gloom which, like a rich robe,
+covered the intervening hills. By some strange coincidence the subject
+of music came up, and P. bitterly lamented the absence of that gentle
+muse from such grand surroundings. I don't believe there is a piano in
+the country except at the girls' school at Cetinje. The Scotchman had
+suggested the gusla as a substitute, and had been met with derisive
+laughter, for he had made the suggestion in all good faith. He was one
+of the most unmusical men I have ever met. The professor had followed
+this up with a learned discourse on the gusla, and the lesson to be
+learnt from it in the origin and development of modern music, when
+suddenly the sounds of a violin, being tuned in the room behind us,
+arrested his flow of speech. In another few moments the unseen
+musician began to play, and a deep silence fell upon us, for he was
+playing our music and recalling memories of bygone days. Snatches from
+Italian opera, and old well-known songs followed each other as we sat
+in the twilight and listened, conjuring up pictures of opera-house and
+concert-hall in this far-away land. Then the music ceased, and the
+tinkling of coins on a plate proclaimed the status of our serenader.
+In a few minutes a ragged, fair-haired boy stood before us, wearily
+holding a plate in his hand. As we dived into our pockets the doctor
+asked him in Serb, who he was and whence he came. He gazed blankly in
+answer, and P. said to me, "He looks quite English." A joyful smile
+lit up his tired face as he answered--
+
+"I am English, sir. I will fetch father; he will be so pleased."
+
+His father came out, a battered violin under his arm, and we were all
+struck with his miserable half-starved and ragged appearance. He
+played to us, he did not even play well, poor fellow, but still we
+listened appreciatively, and then some of us took him home, fed him,
+and we all contributed to his wardrobe. We were all of different sizes
+and build, and the result was sadly comical. Before he left us he told
+his story. It was not new or even interesting, but intensely pathetic;
+one of a large family, fair education, and finally a clerk at �80 a
+year. A pretty typewriter, marriage, and no help from his father.
+First the girl wife was dismissed, and then the boy husband. The child
+was born, and the mother died from lack of proper nourishment and
+comfort. For a few years the father earned a few coppers by playing
+before public-houses in the East End, and then took to the road.
+Somehow or other he found himself on the Continent, and after many
+years he had turned up here. It was all very vague and incoherent.
+Often starving, homeless, and speaking no language but his own, is it
+to be wondered that the man had lost count of days, years, and time?
+Now he had a desire to journey to Greece, why, he knew not, but he
+clung to it with all a weak man's obstinacy. We could never let him
+trudge through Albania, and so the Scotchman procured him a free
+passage to Corfu by steamer. He left us one morning, leading his son
+by the hand, and over his shoulder a sack containing his worldly
+possessions, a sorrowful, ludicrous, and pitiful picture.
+
+Many weeks afterwards--P. and I had been on an expedition in the
+meantime--we sat again in Petri's garden at just such a sunset. We
+remembered the musician, and one of us jokingly remarked that his
+music would not be so appreciated in Greece as by us music-starved
+exiles. Then the Austrian told us the sequel. He had heard it from a
+murderous Albanian friend of his, who sometimes brought him specimens.
+The wanderer had not used his ticket, and had walked from Antivari to
+Dulcigno, from thence he had attempted his original plan of crossing
+Albania on foot. He knew nothing of geography or nationality, and
+doubtless imagined that he could earn his way as in a civilised
+country. On the way to Scutari a band of Albanians stopped him, and he
+played to them. The instrument pleased them, and they took it from
+him. Then they took the boy--though why they did so is not clear, for
+they do not kidnap children--and the father, in a fit of wild despair,
+sprang at the nearest Albanian. The Albanians are always glad of an
+excuse to kill; the wanderer found his death in perhaps the only
+moment of heroism that he had displayed throughout his wretched life.
+Such, though, was the story our informant had gleaned, and it took the
+edge off our evening's amusement.
+
+But other evenings we were merry, and many were the wonderful stories
+of adventure told over bottled beer and an extraordinary salad which
+old Gugga mixed before us--to make an appetite, as he said.
+
+We got to love Podgorica in the end, and left its streets, full of
+gaudy-coloured humanity, the old shot-riddled town across the river,
+and the glorious mountain panorama, with sorrow. There was always
+something to talk about, from a threatened raid of the Albanians to
+the abduction of a Turkish maiden. Death is always very near in that
+unknown border town.
+
+The day of our final departure from Podgorica, we drove to the famous
+Crna Zemlja, or Black Earth.
+
+The object of our visit was chiefly to call on a young Albanian, who
+had repeatedly invited us. Though an Albanian, he is a Montenegrin
+subject and a corporal in the standing army.
+
+As a matter of fact, he is a fugitive from his clan, the Klementi,
+where his life is forfeited in a blood feud. The Prince wisely uses
+such men as a kind of extra border guard, giving them land and houses
+on the actual frontier line, knowing that they will keep a doubly
+sharp watch to preserve their own lives.
+
+The Black Earth is an absolutely flat and treeless plain, covered at
+times with grass, which mischievous Albanians love to set fire to in
+the hopes of some sport with peasants, who might attempt to
+extinguish the conflagration. The River Zem divides it and constitutes
+the boundary, but the land on both sides is neutral by mutual consent.
+It is courting death to walk upon it. Block-houses dot it at frequent
+intervals, containing small garrisons of Montenegrin and Turkish
+soldiers.
+
+As we drove past the first Montenegrin block-house, we were reminded
+of a ride which we once took to it, while our knowledge of the border
+dangers was nil. On that occasion we had cantered, innocently,
+straight towards it, and were amused to see its little garrison
+promptly turn out. A man came running towards us motioning us to halt.
+This unmistakable request we suddenly obeyed, for the men behind had
+covered us with their rifles.
+
+Explanations followed, and the rest of the men came up smiling; but
+they sent us back towards Podgorica at once, which was only half an
+hour's ride away--saying that a bullet from the overlooking hill would
+be no unusual thing.
+
+To-day we left this block-house on our left, and, striking the Zem, we
+drove along it till we reached a solitary house. A few hundred yards
+further down was a Turkish fort, with the banner of the Star and
+Crescent hanging lazily at the mast.
+
+This house was the home of our friend, quite a young man of sixteen,
+but married and a proud father. He could well have been mistaken for
+twenty-five.
+
+He was working in his field as we drew near, and hurried to meet us.
+First of all we went to the Zem, which fifty yards away would be
+unnoticed, as it lies between two deep banks, which break off suddenly
+and without any indication. This historical little river looked very
+peaceful as it flowed through deep basins, hollowed out of the rocky
+bed, and splashed over great boulders. How often has it been crossed
+by bands of men intent on bloodshed and murder, who often recrossed,
+flying and hunted fugitives! What quantities of blood have dyed those
+clear and crystal pools! What awful doings of death have they
+reflected!
+
+The Turkish soldiers opposite turned out, and viewed our movements
+inquisitively. Our Albanian friend hinted that a too lengthy
+inspection might be misunderstood, so we withdrew.
+
+The house was a curiosity. One-storied, and solidly built of stone; it
+had no windows, but suggestive loopholes. The ground floor was empty.
+We looked inside for the staircase, but in vain, and this was scarcely
+odd, because there was none. The family lives above, and the only
+means of entry to their dwelling is by a ladder. This is drawn up
+after the last man, for the night.
+
+As we clambered up the ladder and crawled through the narrow doorway,
+the young mother (of fifteen) kissed our hands.
+
+An aged lady, evidently the great-grandmother of one of the young
+couple--at least, to judge by her decrepit appearance, she might well
+have been that (in reality she was the boy's mother)--sat spinning in
+a corner. A weeping and noisy infant lay strapped immovably in a
+wooden cradle with no rockers, which a young maiden attempted to
+soothe by covering it with a thick cloth and rocking it vigorously.
+
+That Montenegrins survive the ordeal of infancy is a proof of their
+iron constitutions. An ordinary healthy English baby would be
+suffocated in five minutes under that hermetic pall, or, escaping this
+fate, would die of concussion of the brain from violent jarring to and
+fro, which we have inadvertently termed "rocking."
+
+A wood fire smouldered in one corner of the room, and the embers were
+blown into flames as the little can of water was placed in them to
+boil. As the water boils, several spoonfuls of coffee are put in--of
+the _good_ coffee, only used for distinguished visitors--and the whole
+allowed to boil up three or four times. Then cups are produced, sugar
+added, and the thick mixture poured out. This beverage is drunk when
+it is cool enough, and when the grounds have sunk in a thick sediment
+at the bottom of the cup.
+
+[Illustration: A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE]
+
+[Illustration: AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA]
+
+The room, our treatment, and the coffee-brewing are typical of many
+such visits that we paid in Montenegro.
+
+Afterwards spirits were produced, tobacco tins exchanged, and
+arms--rifles, revolvers, and handjars--inspected and criticised. Any
+relics or curiosities are produced, and everyone becomes very
+friendly.
+
+Before we left, an old man (some relation of our host) came up as we
+were examining a fine handjar, that heavy and hiltless sword which
+forms part of both the Albanian and Montenegrin fighting kit, though
+they are no longer universally carried in times of peace. The handy
+revolver has replaced the former beltful of pistols and yataghan. But
+in border fighting the handjar is always taken, and, when time
+permits, the victim is still decapitated by a single blow of that
+murderous weapon.
+
+The old man--a villainous-looking rascal, with shaven head and
+scalping lock--favoured us with a graphic mimicry of a fight, showing
+the methods in his day. He took the handjar between his teeth and a
+musket in his hands, yelling and scowling fearfully; then, the last
+cartridge fired or the moment for hand-to-hand combat arrived, the
+rifle was thrown away, and brandishing the handjar in the air, he
+darted towards us. It was a most realistic performance, and made us
+feel thankful that it was only play.
+
+Suddenly the old man stopped his wild yelling and burst out laughing.
+He laughed till the tears ran down his cheeks.
+
+We glanced behind us at the loophole door, and there, with a horrified
+look, peered our driver, revolver in hand.
+
+He thought that we were being murdered. He was a foreigner and new to
+Podgorica, but more of him anon.
+
+Then we took our leave and drove on to another block-house, and
+visited the commandant. After that we returned to Podgorica, and that
+afternoon, affectionate leave-takings over, we departed for Cetinje,
+en route for Cattaro.
+
+That drive, which should have taken about seven hours, was a memorable
+one, and a fitting conclusion to our visit.
+
+We wired to the hotel in Cetinje in the morning, ordering supper to be
+ready for eight o'clock. Then we had hoped to leave at one p.m. At two
+we again wired from Podgorica for supper to be delayed till ten.
+
+A hundred yards from the town we stopped, and the driver mended some
+harness with a piece of wire. A mile further on something else broke.
+If nothing gave way, a horse kicked a leg over a trace, necessitating
+its partial unharnessing. Each time the driver (he of the morning's
+drive and a native of Hercegovina) descended, swearing softly between
+clenched teeth, in caressing tones, and his face set in a forced
+smile. If we had not understood what he said, he might have been
+addressing endearing remarks to his horse, or holding serious converse
+with a friend.
+
+It became very monotonous after a few hours--should we go for three
+hundred yards without a stop of five or ten minutes, it was a matter
+for comment. We began to feel alarmed, fearing worse things.
+
+Rijeka we reached at eight p.m. instead of five, and we sent another
+wire, stating our arrival to be uncertain, if not improbable.
+
+We seriously contemplated staying the night, but an appointment next
+morning forced us to give up this idea.
+
+After an hour's rest we proceeded. The same weary repetition was
+resumed, either the near side horse lashed out violently and remained
+hung over a trace, or the axle boom or something broke.
+
+We dozed, and I awoke from a sudden jar to find the driver sound
+asleep, the horses wandering aimlessly along, a precipice of many
+hundred feet below us on one side. The road takes sharp turns every
+hundred yards, rendering it impossible to see far ahead, and traffic
+even at night is not uncommon. Drivers shout when nearing a corner,
+particularly on coming downhill, which they do at a great pace. I
+shuddered at the thought of a carriage dashing suddenly round a
+corner upon us as we painfully climbed, for our driver slept soundly.
+I even shouted in his ear, but in vain. Then I struck him, and with
+effect. Inured as we were already by the dangers of that drive, we
+slept no more.
+
+I looked at my watch; it was one o'clock. In another hour the look-out
+hut of Bella Vista loomed up indistinctly, and we thought of that
+grand view of the Lake of Scutari and the mountain panorama to be seen
+from there.
+
+We stopped all the way down into Cetinje, at intervals, and had a long
+wait actually in the town itself while the driver hunted up a friend
+and borrowed a spanner.
+
+At three a.m. we arrived, and refused the offer of our driver to take
+us down to Cattaro next day. He assured us that everything would be in
+order by the afternoon. But we declined, even though he made us a
+cheap offer, below the ordinary price. We had no more confidence in
+him or his carriage, or his wonderful kicking horse--in fact, we gave
+quite a curt and rude refusal, when he pressed the matter.
+
+Safe inside the old-fashioned hostelry of Reinwein, we thanked
+Providence for our safe arrival. We had been through a few dangerous
+experiences during our sojourn in the Land of the Black Mountain, but
+none worse than this.
+
+The carriage was small, and we suffered agonies from cramp; every
+moment we expected to see it fall to pieces; one of the horses lashed
+out violently, narrowly missing the face of the driver, if only
+touched with the whip, every time hitching itself over a trace and
+threatening to kick the decrepit structure behind it to bits; the
+devilish anger of the man, his lurid and comprehensive cursing in that
+soft voice, the danger of dashing over a precipice, constituted a
+journey which we fervently pray may never again fall to our lot.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
+consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
+appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital.
+
+
+We have said that there are not many stirring events happening in
+Cetinje. But this was due to the fact that we had only a very
+superficial knowledge of the town. To appreciate it fully, though, it
+is absolutely necessary to know the country and the people first. We
+had quite made up our minds to go down to Cattaro the day following
+the memorable drive from Podgorica, but a mutual acquaintance, a
+Montenegrin of high standing, met us as we strolled aimlessly down the
+main street that morning. When he heard that we were leaving in a few
+hours, he became quite excited. Had we really seen everything, in
+Cetinje too?
+
+"Yes," said we. "We have visited the monastery, watched the soldiers
+drilling, chatted with the criminals, and know every burgher of the
+town, at least by sight."
+
+"First you must see the hospital and then you must attend a trial in
+the Supreme Court of Appeal," said our seducer. "And as for
+vendettas," he added with pride, "we too have our little quarrels. On
+the spot you are standing a man was shot five years ago, and in the
+act of dying he killed his assailant."
+
+"Tell us the story," we broke in eagerly. Montenegro is demoralising
+in this respect. One becomes so used to bloodthirsty anecdotes that
+one wonders how other countries exist without the excitement of the
+vendetta. Then the intercourse with noted murderers and assassins
+makes a mere ordinary man whose hands are not stained with the blood
+of his fellow-beings seem dull and tame. Our eagerness pleased our
+friend and we adjourned to the caf� opposite.
+
+About five years ago a near relation of the Prince died, and was taken
+to the home of Petrovic in Njegusi. To do honour to the dead man, the
+men of Cetinje and the men of Bajice--a village at the further end of
+the valley--accompanied the corpse as a guard of honour.
+
+Now a corpse is waked in true Irish style in this country, and by the
+time the escort had returned to the valley of Cetinje and halted at
+Bajice for a parting glass, the condition of the mourners resembled
+the close of a Bank Holiday in London. The too liberal indulgence in
+raki or spirits does not always provoke that mellowness which follows
+a good dinner and a glass of port. On the contrary, you become
+argumentative and convinced of the truth of your side of the question,
+and you do not hesitate to tell the other man that he is more or less
+of a fool. So it came to pass in Bajice that those of Cetinje argued
+that they were the better men, a statement which did not conduce to
+good fellowship--in fact, a Voivoda who was present, a native of
+Bajice, had to interfere to prevent the only true solution of the
+question in point. He was an aged man, and the men of Cetinje
+proceeded home without proving their statement. One man, however,
+stayed behind to continue the argument, and this naturally enraged the
+Voivoda. He ordered him to be beaten. Nothing loath, the worthy
+villagers fell upon him, and belaboured him with such fervour that he
+soon fell insensible to the ground. Before he lost consciousness, he
+was heard to utter a threat to the effect that his assailants would be
+sorry for it.
+
+Then he was carried to the hospital in Cetinje and lay six weeks
+recovering.
+
+When he was well again, his thoughts were occupied with revenge, and
+in this scheme he was greatly assisted by his relations.
+
+"Thou wilt be killed, of course," they said, "but thine and our honour
+must be avenged. Who are the men of Bajice to beat one of us and go
+unpunished?"
+
+He was of the same opinion, and cast about for a suitable victim. Now
+the son of the aged Voivoda who had ordered the assault lived in
+Cetinje. He was the captain of the Royal Body Guard, the hero of many
+a fight with the Turks, and famed throughout the land. We knew his
+son, who stands about six feet four inches, and he is said to have
+been small compared to what his father was.
+
+"He shall be the victim," said the man of Cetinje, and his relations
+applauded the choice.
+
+One morning early the captain emerged from a shop, and from a distance
+of a few feet, the avenger of his honour fired at him from behind,
+hitting him in the neck. The captain fell forward on his face, saying,
+"Who has shot me?" and turning saw the assassin running up the street.
+With his last strength he drew his revolver, and resting his elbow on
+the ground, he fired once; the man reeled but continued his headlong
+flight: again the wounded officer fired, and as he sank forward dying,
+he had the satisfaction of seeing the fugitive throw up his hands and
+fall dead, shot through the heart. The last shot was fired at a
+distance of fifty yards.
+
+"As you can imagine," concluded our informant, "the news of this
+affray nearly caused a pitched battle between Bajice and Cetinje,
+which was only prevented by the energetic action of the Prince. He
+called the two clans together before his palace and with marvellous
+judgment picked out the ring-leaders and imprisoned them, and the rest
+were sent home with such a warning of what would come if he heard any
+more about it, that all interest was lost in the dispute. Men do not
+like to face our Prince when he is angered, and his constant presence
+in Cetinje is a great drawback to the vendetta. Now I must leave you,
+and to-morrow you shall visit the hospital."
+
+We strolled to the market-place, which was full of peasants and their
+produce. It is not nearly such a scene of life as is met with
+elsewhere. The Albanian element is almost totally absent, and that
+alone takes fifty per cent. of the wildness off. Neither are rifles
+brought to Cetinje, so that it presents a far more peaceable aspect.
+Still it is crowded, the guslars do a literally roaring trade, and
+there are always a sprinkling of men from the Vasovic and other
+outlying clans to liven up the scene.
+
+Here old friends and comrades in arms meet, called to the capital as
+witnesses, or principals, in a law case, or to draw their salaries as
+small officials of their districts. The conversation on these
+occasions is always the same, and if heard often, becomes monotonous.
+The unvarying formula of greeting is quaint and terse, but it loses
+much of its impressive character by translation. One word in
+explanation. The Montenegrins cannot utter the simplest remark
+without invoking the Almighty in some form or another. The use of the
+word "Bog," or "God," is incessant.
+
+Picture an aged man, whose grey stubble fringes a weather-beaten and
+furrowed face with a grizzled moustache. He is smoking a grimy
+tchibouque in a contemplative fashion, as he stands on the outskirts
+of the chattering throng. To him approaches a second stalwart, lean
+man about the same age and appearance. He is also smoking a long
+tchibouque; it is a custom which the elder inhabitants have adopted
+from the Turks.
+
+"May God protect thee," says the new-comer gravely, as though he had
+never given vent to such a momentous utterance before.
+
+"May God give thee good fortune," answers the other, with equal
+solemnity; and removing their pipes, they clasp hands and fervently
+kiss each other. Then the smoking is resumed, and between the puffs
+the following conversation ensues.
+
+"How art thou?" says the new-comer, gazing with affection at his old
+comrade.
+
+"Well, thank God," replies the other.
+
+"Thank God."
+
+"And how art thou?"
+
+"Well, thank God."
+
+"Thank God."
+
+Now it is the new-comer's turn for the Montenegrin catechism.
+
+The questions already asked and answered are only the prelude, so to
+speak, before they settle down to serious business. "Kako ste?" ("How
+art thou?") is simply as meaningless as "How do you do"; in fact, a
+mere matter of form.
+
+"Art thou well?" says the questioner, referring to the other's state
+of health, who replies--
+
+"I am well, by God, thank God."
+
+"Thank God," says the questioner, breathing more freely, and
+continuing.
+
+"How is thy wife?" "How are thy children?" "Thy grandchildren?" "Thy
+brother?" "Thy sister?" To all of which a deep-toned "Well, thank
+God," is given.
+
+Having satisfied himself that the whole family is in reasonable
+health, and quite certain that he has omitted no important relation,
+the catechiser proceeds to inquire as to the other's worldly
+possessions.
+
+"How are thy crops?"
+
+"God will give me a good harvest."
+
+"How are thy horses?" "Thy sheep?" "Thy goats?" "Thy cows?" "Thy
+pigs?" "Thy bees?"
+
+It must be clearly understood, to appreciate the humour of the scene,
+that the formula has been shortened to avoid vain repetition. Every
+question is asked in full, and answered with a pious "Dobro, hfala
+Bogu" ("Well, thank God"). Not a word is omitted. The concluding
+question is put, after a few moments' thought that really no item has
+been left out, and this covers any lapse of memory.
+
+"And, in short, How art thou?"
+
+"Dobro, hfala Bogu" ("Well, thank God").
+
+"Hfala Bogu" ("Thank God").
+
+Now it is the other's turn, and precisely the same questions are
+asked, varied perhaps with an inquiry as to the state of health of the
+district "standard bearer" or "mayor." Then a few minutes' general
+conversation are indulged in as to the direct cause of the other's
+visit to Cetinje, and each satisfied that he has gained every particle
+of information, they clasp hands, kiss, and part with a measured
+"S'Bogom," signifying that they commend each other to the Almighty's
+keeping.
+
+The simplest and most inoffensive query is answered thus:--
+
+"Hast thou any milk?" says the thirsty wayfarer, pausing at a hut.
+
+"I have none, by God," and the stranger proceeds wearily on his way.
+
+Our visit to the hospital was decidedly interesting. The senior doctor
+of Montenegro was an ex-Austrian military surgeon. He was very
+pressing in his invitation, so one day we wended our steps thither at
+eleven o'clock. We were met by a smart-looking nurse, who told us that
+the doctor was at present engaged in an operation, and would be with
+us shortly. He soon appeared, and, apologising for the simplicity of
+the building, started taking us round. First he led us into the
+accident-room, where the injured are first treated. There were the
+usual operating-tables and cases of instruments. "We treat wounds that
+are suppurating here," he said pleasantly. "Our real operating-room is
+in the other house, and is much better fitted up. This being the only
+hospital in the country I have all the operations to perform,
+generally one a day."
+
+Then we went into the R�ntgen room. The X rays, the doctor informed
+us, was very useful in locating bullets. In the men's ward a young man
+was pointed out to us who had been shot twice during a kolo dance in
+the arm and leg.
+
+"The Montenegrins," said the doctor, "are very careless when they fire
+their revolvers during a dance, and I get a good many patients that
+way." Afterwards we visited some other wards, and we were finally
+taken to the other operating-room, or theatre. But it was only a
+reproduction of the other on a large scale. "The Prince is very
+generous," said the doctor, "and gives me a free hand. We have every
+modern appliance, and I have trained my assistants to such an extent
+that I can absolutely rely on them. The hospital costs a lot of money,
+for we only charge a krone (about a franc) a day, and then they
+petition that they cannot pay."
+
+After inscribing our names in a book we went back to our midday meal.
+
+The hospital, from a medical and surgical standpoint, is extremely up
+to date, and at its head is a doctor who may be counted as one of the
+finest operators in Europe; at his own request his name has not been
+mentioned. It is another instance of Prince Nicolas' benevolence to
+his people, another of the progressive movements which he is ever
+introducing into the country. Every district has a doctor, all of whom
+are under the head doctor at Cetinje, who directs all treatment in the
+case of an epidemic. Serious cases are sent to Cetinje and treated
+there, but these are largely surgical. The fame of the doctor at
+Cetinje has reached the furthermost village; men who have suffered for
+years now troop joyfully to the capital, and the number of operations
+increases yearly.
+
+May the hospital and its capable chief flourish and continue to bring
+the blessings of science to the worthy sons of the Black Mountain!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical
+lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of
+tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and
+apostrophe.
+
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje is distinctly quaint. All civil cases are
+conducted in public, and the method of procedure is simplicity
+itself.[9] Firstly there are no lawyers and no costs, the rival
+parties conducting their case in person--that is to say, they are
+present, and are examined and cross-examined by the judge and his six
+assistants. All the preliminaries have been committed to writing and
+are read out by the clerk of the court, the only other official
+present. In a small inclosure sit the plaintiff and defendant and
+their witnesses; behind a railing, stand and sit the audience of
+admiring friends and relations.
+
+[Footnote 9: This is all altered now since the end of 1902, when a new
+code and system was introduced, more up to date.]
+
+The room is long and low. At the further end on a raised dais sits the
+judge, behind whom is a lifesize reproduction of the Prince's
+photograph. At a horseshoe-shaped table sit the other judges, three on
+each side, and in the middle is another table holding the Bible,
+crucifix, and two candles. The candles are lit when a witness takes
+the oath.
+
+In the intervening space is a large and comfortable easy-chair, or
+perhaps it would be more correct and dignified to call it a throne. It
+is occupied by Prince Nicolas whenever he comes in, as he often does,
+for an hour or so, for he takes a keen interest in the law cases of
+his subjects. When he is present the proceedings are in no way
+altered, but the Prince himself puts now and then a pertinent question
+to the witnesses. Furthermore, it is here that the Prince every
+Saturday, when he is in residence in Cetinje, holds public audience
+and receives petitions and complaints from his lowliest subjects.
+Every petition must be committed to writing, and in the appointed
+order each man or woman steps forward while the document is read aloud
+by the clerk. The Prince puts a question or two to the petitioner and
+then gives his answer to the request, which is duly noted, and the
+next person called.
+
+It is all so simple and quick that it is hard to realise the
+importance of this commendable institution. In the olden days the
+Prince dispensed justice and favours, seated under the shade of an
+enormous tree, which has now, however, been destroyed. But in the
+height of summer, a shady spot in the open air is still found.
+
+We listened to one case, that of a woman who had amassed a large sum
+of money--for Montenegro--by fetching water from a distance at so much
+a gallon. Cetinje is almost waterless in summer, and water-carriers
+can earn small fortunes, particularly if equipped with a donkey or
+two, as was this woman. Having saved a few hundred guldens, she
+proceeded to lend it to needy friends--people are foolish in this
+respect, even in Montenegro. It would have been all right if she had
+not neglected the simple precaution of insisting on an I.O.U. for each
+loan. Her money gone, she not unnaturally asked that some of it should
+be returned, for she had fallen on evil days. But all knowledge of
+such loans was denied by the ungrateful borrowers.
+
+It was a knotty point to decide. Should the judges believe the woman's
+word, or the emphatic denials of the debtors that they had ever
+received a kreutzer? The seven looked hopelessly at each other, and
+then wisely retired to the seclusion of a private room, awaiting
+divine inspiration.
+
+As of yore, the little prison, or rather house of detention, had a
+great attraction for us. Many afternoons we wended our way thither to
+while away an hour in the genial company of the prisoners and their
+warders. The handsome young director of prisons usually accompanied
+us, ostensibly but to bear us company, though doubtless he was acting
+on higher orders, and had instructions to see that our eccentricities
+did not go too far.
+
+We organised sports on some occasions, chiefly consisting of putting
+the weight, _i.e._ a large stone, but they _would_ swindle and
+invariably overstepped the limit line, declaring that they hadn't
+afterwards.
+
+But it was their stories that we loved to listen to. They were mostly
+harmless quarrellers, for we shunned the debased thieving criminal; a
+man who could steal was vigorously excluded from our circle. There was
+one exception, however, and he was a Hungarian, a deserter from his
+regiment. That in itself is not a punishable crime, but he had eased
+the regimental cash-box of a thousand kronen at the time of his
+departure, and was awaiting the result of investigations. He
+maintained that the money was his, and was quite indignant when it was
+hinted that he must have stolen it; but unluckily he destroyed any
+belief in his honesty by invariably contradicting himself as to how he
+came by it. But he was such a good-natured, pleasant-spoken man that
+we let him sit by our side and prevaricate, till we bade him cease
+from further blackening his soul.
+
+We gleaned a lot more information from the young director of the
+prison, and amongst it the method of recapturing escaped prisoners. In
+the central prison at Podgorica, if a prisoner escapes, the rest of
+the criminals are sent out to catch him. Very often they find him, and
+never has a prisoner abused this privilege, all punctually returning
+by a given date.
+
+We stayed at Reinwein's inn, an unpretentious building, both as
+regards the exterior and interior, but as Reinwein himself is a
+Viennese, and has been for twelve years in the service of the Prince,
+acting often as cook, it is quite safe to say that at his house the
+best cooking in the whole of Montenegro is to be found. Coming into
+the country this would not be so noticeable, but after months in other
+Montenegrin towns the cooking is most appreciable. We spent very happy
+evenings in his bare little dining-room, with a decidedly cosmopolitan
+gathering. The most noticeable feature was the number of languages in
+use. Even Dalmatia, Bosnia, and the Hercegovina, where a
+three-languaged man is the rule, paled into insignificance. There was
+a Turkish official staying at Reinwein's, transacting business for his
+Government, and every evening men came to see him; that man was to be
+heard--he was a Neapolitan by birth--conversing fluently in Turkish,
+Albanian, Serb, Greek, Italian, and French, alternately. One evening I
+was trying to follow the conversation, which began in Italian, then he
+wandered off into other tongues, explaining, evidently, a letter
+written in Turkish. I got interested and went over to his table, and,
+afterwards, he told me which languages he had been using. Besides this
+little list, Reinwein spoke Russian with another man, German largely
+with us, and P. and I passed remarks to each other in English, which
+was the only unknown language. One evening two Hungarian tourists
+arrived, and then we fled from that Babel, fearing for our reason.
+
+An affable old Turk, seedy in appearance, but extremely entertaining,
+owned to six languages, not counting others of which he had only a
+smattering. Serb he didn't count as he said he could only talk on easy
+subjects in that tongue. It is very humiliating, that sort of thing,
+it is liable to lower the opinion of one's own intelligence. We kept
+late hours, too, at Reinwein's, we couldn't help it.
+
+But all good things must come to an end, and at last the day of our
+departure arrived. Cetinje itself was quite a different place to us
+than when we knew it formerly. Representative of the land in a certain
+sense it rightly is, but then a fairly full knowledge of the country
+must be acquired first to understand in what respects it represents
+the life and customs of the people beyond. To the stranger who extends
+his visit for only a week, it is sure to give manifold false
+impressions, for though Montenegro is quiet and peaceable enough, the
+appearance of Cetinje is rather too assuring. For here there is little
+trace of vendetta and quarrelling, which, however, under the powerful
+hand of the present Prince Nicolas, are surely dying out through all
+the land. When the fact is taken into consideration that the
+Montenegro of forty years ago was a rough and dangerous country,
+inhabited by a people who knew nothing of the outside world, and lived
+simply for themselves in their own land, it will be seen what
+miraculous progress has been made in the path of civilisation during
+the present reign. Peace and order have been established to a
+wonderful degree, and the State reorganised and set on a surer basis.
+With a powerful hand and not too much external help the Prince has
+carried through his reforms, and, like David in his final exhortation
+to Solomon, leaves the way ready for still greater progress to be made
+in the future. And the comparison holds good in more respects than
+one.
+
+We drank our last little cup of coffee, oddly enough, in the
+historical monastery of Ivan Beg in the company of the Vladika, to
+whom we were paying our farewell respects, and half an hour later were
+whirling down to Bajice under the shadow of the mighty Lovcen.
+
+As the grand Bocche di Cattaro again burst on our view and the first
+black and yellow sign-post of Austria was passed, we turned again for
+a last look at those seemingly forbidding and inhospitable mountains;
+but only forbidding and inhospitable to the enemy of the brave little
+race beyond. To the stranger, fresh from the comforts and improvements
+of civilisation, it is a revelation of how men live, knowing nothing
+of the luxuries of the outer world, and keep themselves untarnished in
+honour; honest and God-fearing where a man is judged by his deeds and
+not by his words. Where men do not steal or lie, and where the humble
+peasant looks his Prince in the face and says--
+
+"Lord, I am a man like thyself."
+
+They have their faults and failings, many of their customs seem
+barbaric to our eyes: but may they long be preserved from the evils of
+civilisation!
+
+Later, as the ship ploughed her way through the waves, and the
+mountains of Crnagora became ever more and more faint and indistinct,
+we thought of Tennyson's words:--
+
+    "They rose to where their sov'ran eagle sails,
+    They kept their faith, their freedom, on the height,
+    Chaste, frugal, savage, armed by day and night
+    Against the Turk; whose inroad nowhere scales
+    Their headlong passes, but his footstep fails,
+    And red with blood the Crescent reels from fight
+    Before their dauntless hundreds in prone flight
+    By thousands down the crags and through the vales.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    O smallest among peoples! rough rock-throne
+    Of Freedom! warriors beating back the swarm
+    Of Turkish Isl�m for five hundred years,
+    Great Crnagora! never since thine own
+    Black ridges drew the cloud and broke the storm
+    Has breathed a race of mightier mountaineers."
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Alarm,      87, 187
+Albanian costume,      139
+  " custom house,      133
+  " mass,      231
+Andrijevica,      65, 183
+Antivari,      113, 270
+Army,      26, 27, 46
+Austria,      8, 13, 137
+
+Babel,      295
+Bajice,      281
+Balsic,      17
+Band of Good Hope,      155
+Barracks,      46
+Bella Vista,      55, 143
+Billard,      43
+Bogetic,      250
+Bojana,      121, 132
+Brda,      2, 145
+Budua,      22
+Business methods,      77
+
+Cardplaying,      169
+Carina,      206
+Catherine II.,      21
+Cattaro,      22, 34
+  " Bocche di,      33
+Caxton,      19
+Cetinje,      18, 40, 42, 280
+Church,      13
+  " militant,      137
+Conversation,      285
+Crimean War,      22
+Crnagora,      15, 17, 297
+Crna Zemlja,      74, 271
+Curzola,      33
+
+Daibabe,      89
+Danilo, Crown Prince,      7, 30, 114, 156
+Danilo II.,      22
+Danilovgrad,      69, 249
+Death dirge,      85
+Dinos,      234, 236
+Dukla,      93
+Dulcigno (Ulcinj),      24, 117, 270
+
+Easter,      66, 74
+Edward VII.,      166
+
+Fatalism,      228
+Fishing,      105
+Food,      3, 107, 170, 196
+Fundina,      83, 233
+
+Gambling,      7, 265
+Gjolic,      208
+Grahovo,      23
+Gravosa,      33
+Gugga,      265
+Gusinje,      25, 187, 197, 205, 216
+Guslar,      39
+
+Heraclius,      16
+Hildebrand,      16
+Hospital,      46, 287
+Hospitality,      60
+Hotti,      227
+
+Imperfect valleys,      2
+
+Karst,      2
+Katunska,      2
+Keco,      233
+Kiuprili Pasha,      20
+Klementi,      20, 271
+Kohl,      5
+Kolasin,      65, 153
+Kolo,      157
+Kom, Kucki,      211
+   " Vasojevicki,      199
+Konjuhe,      205
+Korito,      222
+Kostice,      223
+Krivosejans,      23
+Krusevac,      62, 72
+Kuc,      20, 79, 206, 227
+
+Lakic Voivodic,      183
+Law,      28, 290
+Lesina (Hvar),      33
+Lijeva Rijeka,      150
+Lim,      183
+Ljubotin,      143
+Lovcen,      28, 103, 265
+Lunatic Asylum,      69
+
+Mala,      148
+Market,      73
+Marko Ivankovic,      118
+Martinovic,      154
+Medun,      83
+Memorial stones,      214, 221
+Michael Dozic,      164
+Militia,      171
+Mirko (father to the reigning Prince),      23, 249
+Mokra,      182, 228
+Moraca,      101, 147
+  "    monastery,      162
+Morina,      198
+
+Nicolas, Prince,      4, 5, 9, 43, 115, 177, 261
+Niksic,      24, 250, 259
+Njegusi,      38
+
+Obod,      19, 59
+Ostrog,      160, 248
+
+Pannonia,      32
+Perusica,      204
+Peter, St.,      21
+Peter II.,      21
+Petri,      265
+Petrovic,      20
+Pilgrims,      251
+Plavnica,      110
+Podgorica,      15, 28, 56, 66, 241, 263
+Pola,      32
+Popovic, Simeon,      89
+Prison,      28, 47, 69, 292
+Procletia,      216, 226
+Prstan,      113
+
+Quagmires,      152
+
+Radonic,      20
+Ragusa,      33
+Raskrsnica,      175
+Reinwein,      294
+Revolvers,      37
+Rijeka,      56, 58, 142
+Rikavac,      218
+Risano,      34, 260
+Roads,      29, 36, 65, 132, 146
+Roman Catholics,      13, 223, 225
+Rumija, 56, 103
+
+Samuel, Czar,      16
+Sandjak of Novipazar,      1, 14
+Scutari,      15, 135
+Shooting,      57, 88, 90,103, 198, 217
+Skenderbeg,      17, 265
+Sokol Baco,      100
+Spalato,      32
+Spizza,      22
+Spuz,      89, 249
+Stature,      6
+Stefan Crnoievic,      17
+Stefan Duzan,      16
+Stefan Mali,      21
+Stefan Nemanja,      16, 160
+Sutorman Pass,      112
+
+Tara,      152
+Terpetlis,      205
+Teuta,      15
+Theatre,      46
+Tobacco,      105
+Topolica,      111
+Trieste,      31
+Tusi,      234
+
+Uiko, Achmet,      96, 120, 244
+
+Vaccination,      129
+Velika,      195
+Vendetta,      75, 205, 225, 239, 240, 247, 281
+Venice,      19
+Virpazar,      110
+Vizier Bridge,      62
+Vladika,      43
+  " Mitrofanban,      44, 253, 296
+Voivoda Marko,      79, 233
+  " of the Zeta,      18, 62
+Vranjina,      103, 110
+Vucipotok,      213
+
+Wake, Montenegrin,      281
+Women,      5, 71, 243
+Wurmbrand,      31
+
+Yussuf Mucic,      81
+
+Zabljak,      17, 102
+Zara,      32
+Zatrijebac,      223
+Zem,      226, 241, 272
+Zeta,      1, 249
+
+
+
+
+A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS
+PUBLISHED BY METHUEN
+AND COMPANY: LONDON
+36 ESSEX STREET
+W.C.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+GENERAL LITERATURE,
+
+  ANTIQUARY'S BOOKS,
+
+  BEGINNER'S BOOKS,
+
+  BUSINESS BOOKS,
+
+  BYZANTINE TEXTS,
+
+  CHURCHMAN'S BIBLE,
+
+  CHURCHMAN'S LIBRARY,
+
+  CLASSICAL TRANSLATIONS,
+
+  COMMERCIAL SERIES,
+
+  CONNOISSEUR'S LIBRARY,
+
+  LIBRARY OF DEVOTION,
+
+  ILLUSTRATED POCKET LIBRARY OF PLAIN AND COLOURED BOOKS,
+
+  JUNIOR EXAMINATION SERIES,
+
+  METHUEN'S JUNIOR SCHOOL-BOOKS,
+
+  LEADERS OF RELIGION,
+
+  LITTLE BLUE BOOKS,
+
+  LITTLE BOOKS ON ART,
+
+  LITTLE GALLERIES,
+
+  LITTLE GUIDES,
+
+  LITTLE LIBRARY,
+
+  METHUEN'S MINIATURE LIBRARY,
+
+  OXFORD BIOGRAPHIES,
+
+  SCHOOL EXAMINATION SERIES,
+
+  SOCIAL QUESTIONS OF TO-DAY,
+
+  HANDBOOKS OF THEOLOGY,
+
+  METHUEN'S STANDARD LIBRARY,
+
+  WESTMINSTER COMMENTARIES,
+
+
+FICTION,
+
+  METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS,
+
+  BOOKS FOR BOYS AND GIRLS,
+
+  NOVELS OF ALEXANDRE DUMAS,
+
+
+
+
+A CATALOGUE OF MESSRS. METHUEN'S PUBLICATIONS
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Colonial Editions are published of all Messrs. METHUEN'S
+Novels issued at a price above _2s. 6d._, and similar editions are
+published of some works of General Literature. These are marked in the
+Catalogue. Colonial editions are only for circulation in the British
+Colonies and India.
+
+An asterisk denotes that a book is in the Press.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+PART I.--GENERAL LITERATURE
+
+Abbot (Jacob). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Acatos (M.J.). Modern Language Master at King Edward School, Birmingham.
+See Junior School Books.
+
+Adams (Frank). JACK SPRATT. With 24 Coloured Pictures. _Super Royal
+16mo. 2s._
+
+Adeney (W.F.), M.A. See Bennett and Adeney.
+
+�schylus. See Classical Translations.
+
+�sop. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Ainsworth (W. Harrison). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+*Alderson (J.P.) MR. ASQUITH. With Portraits and Illustrations. _Demy
+8vo. 6d. net._
+
+Alexander (William), D.D. Archbishop of Armagh. THOUGHTS AND COUNSELS OF
+MANY YEARS. Selected by J.H. BURN, B.D. _Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Alken (Henry). THE NATIONAL SPORTS OF GREAT BRITAIN. With descriptions
+in English and French. With 51 Coloured Plates. _Royal Folio. Five
+Guineas net._ See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Allen (Jessie). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Allen (J. Romilly), F.S.A. See Antiquary's Books.
+
+Almack (E.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Amherst (Lady). A SKETCH OF EGYPTIAN HISTORY FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO
+THE PRESENT DAY. With many illustrations, some of which are in Colour.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Anderson (F.M.). THE STORY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE FOR CHILDREN. With
+many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Andrewes (Bishop). PRECES PRIVATAE. Edited, with Notes, by F.E.
+BRIGHTMAN, M.A., of Pusey House, Oxford. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Aristophanes. THE FROGS. Translated into English by E.W. HUNTINGFORD,
+M.A., Professor of Classics in Trinity College, Toronto. _Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Aristotle. THE NICOMACHEAN ETHICS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by JOHN BURNETT, M.A., Professor of Greek at St. Andrews. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Ashton (R.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Atkins (H.G.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Atkinson (C.M.). JEREMY BENTHAM. _Demy 8vo. 5s. net._ A biography of
+this great thinker, and an estimate of his work and influence.
+
+Atkinson (T.D.). A SHORT HISTORY OF ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. With over
+200 Illustrations by the Author and others. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Aurelius (Marcus). See Methuen's University Library.
+
+Austen (Jane). See Little Library and Methuen's University Library.
+
+Aves (Ernest). See Books on Business.
+
+Bacon (Francis). See Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Baden-Powell (R.S.S.), Major-General. THE DOWNFALL OF PREMPEH. A Diary
+of Life in Ashanti, 1895. With 21 Illustrations and a Map. _Third
+Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896. With nearly 100 Illustrations. _Fourth
+and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._;
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Baker (W.G.) M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Baker (Julian L.) F.I.C., F.C.S. See Books on Business.
+
+Balfour (Graham). THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. _Second Edition.
+Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 25s. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bally (S.E.) See Commercial Series.
+
+Banks (Elizabeth L.). THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A 'NEWSPAPER GIRL'. With a
+Portrait of the Author and her Dog. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Barham (R.H.) See Little Library.
+
+Baring-Gould (S.) Author of 'Mehalah,' etc. THE LIFE OF NAPOLEON
+BONAPARTE. With over 450 Illustrations in the Text, and 12 Photogravure
+Plates. _Gill top, Large quarto. 36s._
+THE TRAGEDY OF THE C�SARS. With numerous Illustrations from Busts,
+Gems, Cameos, etc. _Fifth Edition. Royal 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations and Initial Letters
+by ARTHUR J. GASKIN. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram, 6s._
+A BOOK OF BRITTANY. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+Uniform in scope and size with Mr. Baring-Gould's well-known books on
+Devon, Cornwall, and Dartmoor.
+OLD ENGLISH FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations by F.D. BEDFORD.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram, 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE VICAR OF MORWENSTOW: A Biography. A new and Revised Edition. With
+a Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+A completely new edition of the well-known biography of R.S. Hawker.
+DARTMOOR: A Descriptive and Historical Sketch. With Plans and numerous
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE BOOK OF THE WEST. With numerous Illustrations. _Two volumes._ Vol.
+I, Devon. _Second Edition._ Vol. II. Cornwall _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s. each._
+A BOOK OF NORTH WALES. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+This book is uniform with Mr. Baring-Gould's books on Devon, Dartmoor,
+and Brittany.
+*A BOOK OF SOUTH WALES. With many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A BOOK OF GHOSTS. With 8 Illustrations by D. Murray Smith. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+OLD COUNTRY LIFE. With 67 Illustrations. _Fifth Edition. Large Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+*AN OLD ENGLISH HOME. With numerous Plans and Illustrations. _Cr.
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+*YORKSHIRE ODDITIES AND STRANGE EVENTS. _Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo.
+2s. 6d. net._
+*STRANGE SURVIVALS AND SUPERSTITIONS. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s.
+6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+A GARLAND OF COUNTRY SONG: English Folk Songs with their Traditional
+Melodies. Collected and arranged by S. BARING-GOULD and H.F. SHEPPARD.
+_Demy 4to. 6s._
+SONGS OF THE WEST: Traditional Ballads and Songs of the West of
+England, with their Melodies. Collected by S. BARING-GOULD
+and H.F. SHEPARD, M.A. In 4 Parts. _Parts I., II., III., 2s.
+6d. each. Part IV., 4s. In One Volume, French Morocco, 10s. net.;
+Roan, 15s._
+See also The Little Guides.
+
+Barker (Aldred F.). Author of 'Pattern Analysis,' etc. See Textbooks
+of Technology.
+
+Barnes (W.E.), D.D., Hulsaean Professor of Divinity at Cambridge. See
+Churchman's Bible.
+
+Barnett (Mrs. P.A.). See Little Library.
+
+Baron (R.R.N.), M.A. FRENCH PROSE COMPOSITION. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+Key, 3s. net._ See also Junior School Books.
+
+Barron (H.M.), M.A., Wadham College, Oxford. TEXTS FOR SERMONS. With
+a Preface by Canon SCOTT HOLLAND. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Bastable (C.F.), M.A., Professor of Economics at Trinity College,
+Dublin. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Batson (Mrs. Stephen). A BOOK OF THE COUNTRY AND THE GARDEN. Illustrated
+by F. CARRUTHERS GOULD and A.C. GOULD. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF GARDEN FLOWERS. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+*Batten (Loring W.). Ph.D., S.T.D., Rector of St. Mark's Church,
+New York; sometime Professor in the Philadelphia Divinity School. THE
+HEBREW PROPHET. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Beaman (A. Hulme). PONS ASINORUM; OR, A GUIDE TO BRIDGE. _Second
+Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s._
+
+Beard (W.S.) See Junior Examination Series.
+EASY EXERCISES IN ARITHMETIC. Arranged by. _Cr. 8vo._ Without Answers,
+_1s._ With Answers, _1s. 3d._
+
+Beckford (Peter). THOUGHTS ON HUNTING. Edited by J. OTHO PAGET, and
+Illustrated by G.H. JALLAND. _Second and Cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Beckford (William). See Little Library.
+
+Beeching (H.C.), M.A., Canon of Westminster. See Library of
+Devotion.
+
+Behmen (Jacob). THE SUPERSENSUAL LIFE. Edited by BERNARD
+HOLLAND. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Belloc (Hilaire). PARIS. With Maps and Illustrations. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Bellot (H.H.L.), M.A. THE INNER AND MIDDLE TEMPLE. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s. net._
+See also L.A.A. Jones.
+
+Bennet (W.H.), M.A. A PRIMER OF THE BIBLE. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Bennett (W.H.) and Adeney (W.F.). A BIBLICAL INTRODUCTION. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Benson (Archbishop). GOD'S BOARD: Communion Addresses. _Fcap, 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Benson (A.C.), M.A. See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Benson (R.M.). THE WAY OF HOLINESS: a Devotional Commentary on the
+119th Psalm. _Crown 8vo. 5s._
+
+Bernard (E.R.), M.A., Canon of Salisbury. THE ENGLISH SUNDAY. _Fcap.
+8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Bertouch (Baroness de). THE LIFE OF FATHER IGNATIUS, O.S.B., THE
+MONK OF LLANTHONY. With Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bethune-Baker (J.F.), M.A., Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge.
+See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Bidez (M.). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Biggs (C.R.D.), D.D. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+Bindley (T. Herbert), B.D. THE OECUMENICAL DOCUMENTS OF THE FAITH.
+With Introductions and Notes. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A historical account of the Creeds.
+
+Binyon (Laurence). THE DEATH OF ADAM, AND OTHER POEMS. _Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Birnstingl (Ethel). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Blair (Robert). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Blake (William). See Illustrated Pocket Library and Little Library.
+
+Blaxland (B.), M.A. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Bloom (T. Harvey), M.A. SHAKESPEARE'S GARDEN. With Illustrations.
+_Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; leather, 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Blouet (Henri). See The Beginner's Books.
+
+Boardman (T.H.). See Text Books of Technology.
+
+Bodley (J.E.C.), Author of 'France.' THE CORONATION OF EDWARD VII.
+_Demy 8vo. 21s. net._ By Command of the King.
+
+Body (George), D.D. THE SOUL'S PILGRIMAGE: Devotional Readings from his
+published and unpublished writings. Selected and arranged by J.H. BURN,
+B.D. F.R.S.E. _Pott 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Bona (Cardinal). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Boon (F.C.), See Commercial Series.
+
+Borrow (George), See Little Library.
+
+Bos (J. Ritzema). AGRICULTURAL ZOOLOGY. Translated by J.R. AINSWORTH
+DAVIS, M.A. With an Introduction by ELEANOR A. ORMEROD, F.E.S. With 153
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. Third Edition. 3s. 6d._
+
+Botting (C.G.), B.A. EASY GREEK EXERCISES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._ See also
+Junior Examination Series.
+
+Boulton (E.S.). GEOMETRY ON MODERN LINES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Bowden (E.M.). THE IMITATION OF BUDDHA: Being Quotations from Buddhist
+Literature for each Day in the Year. _Fourth Edition. Crown 16mo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Boyle (W.). CHRISTMAS AT THE ZOO. With Verses by W. BOYLE and 24
+Coloured Pictures by H.B. NEILSON. _Super Royal 16mo. 2s._
+
+Brabant (F.G.), M.A. See The Little Guides.
+
+Brodrick (Mary) and Morton (Anderson). A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF EGYPTIAN
+ARCH�OLOGY. With many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Brooke (A.S.), M.A. SLINGSBY AND SLINGSBY CASTLE. With many
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Brooks (E.W.). See Byzantine Tests.
+
+Brown (P.H.), Fraser Professor of Ancient (Scottish) History at the
+University of Edinburgh. SCOTLAND IN THE TIME OF QUEEN MARY. _Demy
+8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Browne (Sir Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Brownell (C.L.). THE HEART OF JAPAN. Illustrated. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.; also Demy 8vo. 6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Browning (Robert). See Little Library.
+
+Buckhand (Francis T.). CURIOSITIES OF NATURAL HISTORY. With
+Illustrations by HARRY B. NEILSON. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Buckton (A.M.). THE BURDEN OF ENGELA: a Ballad-Epic. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+EAGER HEART: A Mystery Play. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. net._
+
+Budge (E.A. Wallis). THE GODS OF THE EGYPTIANS. With over 100 Coloured
+Plates and many Illustrations, _Two Volumes. Royal 8vo. �3. 3s. net._
+
+Bull (Paul), Army Chaplain. GOD AND OUR SOLDIERS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bulley (Miss). See Social Question Series.
+
+Bunyan (John). THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. Edited, with an Introduction,
+by C.H. FIRTH, M.A. With 39 Illustrations by R. ANNING BELL. _Cr. 8vo.
+6s._ See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Burch (G.J.), M.A., F.R.S. A MANUAL OF ELECTRICAL SCIENCE. With
+numerous illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s._
+
+Burgess (Gelett). GOOPS AND HOW TO BE THEM. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Small 4to. 6s._
+
+Burke (Edmund). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Burn (A.E.), D.D., Prebendary of Lichfield. See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Burn (J.H.), B.D. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Burnand (Sir F.C.). RECORDS AND REMINISCENCES, PERSONAL AND GENERAL.
+With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. Two Volumes. Third Edition. 25s.
+net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Burns (Robert), THE POEMS OF. Edited by ANDREW LANG and W.A. CRAIGIE.
+With Portrait. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo, gilt top. 6s._
+
+Burnside (W.F.), M.A. OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY FOR USE IN SCHOOLS. _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Burton (Alfred). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Butler (Joseph). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Caldecott (Alfred), D.D. See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Calderwood (D.S.), Headmaster of the Normal School, Edinburgh. TEST
+CARDS IN EUCLID AND ALGEBRA. In three packets of 40, with Answers,
+_1s._ each. Or in three Books, price _2d., 2d., and 3d._
+
+Cambridge (Ada) [Mrs. Cross]. THIRTY YEARS IN AUSTRALIA. _Demy 8vo. 7s.
+6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Canning (George). See Little Library.
+
+Capey (E.F.H.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Careless (John). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Carlyle (Thomas). THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. Edited by C.R.L. FLETCHER,
+Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. _Three Volumes. Crown 8vo. 18s._
+THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF OLIVER CROMWELL. With an introduction by C.H.
+FIRTH, M.A., and Notes and Appendices by Mrs. S.C. LOMAS. _Three
+Volumes. Demy 8vo. 18s. net._
+
+Carlyle (R.M. and A.J.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Chamberlin (Wilbur B.). ORDERED TO CHINA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Channer (C.C.) and Roberts (M.E.). LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS, PAST AND
+PRESENT. With 16 full-page Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Chatterton (Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Chesterfield (Lord), THE LETTERS OF, TO HIS SON. Edited, with an
+Introduction by C. STRACHEY, and Notes by A. CALTHROP. _Two Volumes. Cr.
+8vo. 12s._
+
+Christian (F.W.) THE CAROLINE ISLANDS. With many Illustrations and
+Maps. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
+
+Cicero. See Classical Translations.
+
+Clarke (F.A.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Cleather (A.L.) and Crump (B.). RICHARD WAGNER'S MUSIC DRAMAS:
+Interpretations, embodying Wagner's own explanations. _In Four Volumes.
+Fcap 8vo. 2s. 6d. each._
+VOL. I.--THE RING OF THE NIBELUNG.
+VOL. II.--PARSIFAL, LOHENGRIN, and THE HOLY GRAIL.
+
+Clinch (G.) See The Little Guides.
+
+Clough (W.T.), Head of the Physical Department East Ham Technical
+College. See Junior School Books.
+
+Coast (W.G.), B.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN VERGIL. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Cobb (T.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Collingwood (W.G.), M.A. THE LIFE OF JOHN RUSKIN. With Portraits. _New
+and Cheaper Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s._ Also a Popular Edition. _Cr. 8vo. 2s.
+6d. net._
+
+Collins (W.E.), M.A. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Colonna. HYPNEROTOMACHIA POLIPHILI UBI HUMANA OMNIA NON NISI SOMNIUM
+ESSE DOCET ATQUE OBITER PLURIMA SCITU SANE QUAM DIGNA COMMEMORAT. An
+edition limited to 350 copies on hand-made paper. _Folio. Three Guineas
+net._
+
+Combe (William). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Cook (A.M.), M.A. See E.C. Marchant.
+
+Cooke-Taylor (R.W.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Corelli (Marie). THE PASSING OF THE GREAT QUEEN: A Tribute to the
+Noble Life of Victoria Regina. _Small 4to. 1s._
+A CHRISTMAS GREETING. _Sm. 4to. 1s._
+
+Corkran (Alice). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Cotes (Rosemary). DANTE'S GARDEN. With a Frontispiece. _Second Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. cloth 2s. 6d.; leather, 3s. 6d. net._
+BIBLE FLOWERS. With a Frontispiece and Plan. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Cowley (Abraham). See Little Library.
+
+Cox (J. Charles), LL.D., F.S.A. See Little Guides.
+
+Cox (Harold), B.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Crabbe (George). See Little Library.
+
+Craigie (W.A.). A PRIMER OF BURNS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Craik (Mrs.). See Little Library.
+
+Crashaw (Richard). See Little Library.
+
+Crawford (F.G.). See Mary C. Danson.
+
+Crouch (W.), BRYAN KING. With a Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Cruikshank (G.). THE LOVING BALLAD OF LORD BATEMAN. With 11 Plates.
+_Crown 16vo. 1s. 6d. net._
+From the edition published by C. Tilt, 1811.
+
+Crump (B.). See A.L. Cleather.
+
+Cunliffe (F.H.E.), Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford. THE HISTORY
+OF THE BOER WAR. With many Illustrations, Plans, and Portraits. _In 2
+vols. Quarto. 15s. each._
+
+Cutts (E.L.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Daniell (G.W.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Danson (Mary C.) and Crawford (F.G.). FATHERS IN THE FAITH. _Small
+8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Dante. LA COMMEDIA DI DANTE. The Italian Text edited by PAGET TOYNBEE,
+M.A., D. Litt. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Paget Toynbee, Little Library,
+and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Darley (George). See Little Library.
+
+Davenport (Cyril). See Connoisseur's Library and Little Books on
+Art.
+
+Dawson (A.J.). MOROCCO. Being a bundle of jottings, notes, impressions,
+tales, and tributes. With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Deane (A.C.). See Little Library.
+
+Delbos (Leon). THE METRIC SYSTEM. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Demosthenes: THE OLYNTHIACS AND PHILIPPICS. Translated upon a new
+principle by OTHO HOLLAND _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Demosthenes. AGAINST CONON AND CALLICLES. Edited with Notes and
+Vocabulary, by F. DARWIN SWIFT, M.A. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s._
+
+Dickens (Charles). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Dickinson (Emily). POEMS. First Series. _Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Dickinson (G. L.). M.A., Fellow of King's College, Cambridge. THE GREEK
+VIEW OF LIFE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Dickson (H.N.). F.R.S.E., F.R.Met. Soc METEOROLOGY, Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Dilke (Lady). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Dillon (Edward). See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Ditchfield (P.H.). M.A., F.S.A. ENGLISH VILLAGES. Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+THE STORY OF OUR ENGLISH TOWNS. With an Introduction by AUGUSTUS
+JESSOPP, D.D. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+OLD ENGLISH CUSTOMS: Extant at the Present Time. An Account of Local
+Observances, Festival Customs, and Ancient Ceremonies yet Surviving in
+Great Britain. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Dixon (W.H.). M.A. A PRIMER OF TENNYSON. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+ENGLISH POETRY FROM BLAKE TO BROWNING. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Dole (N.H.). FAMOUS COMPOSERS. With Portraits. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo
+net._
+
+Dowden (J.). D.D., Lord Bishop of Edinburgh. See Churchman's Library
+
+Drage (G.) See Books on Business.
+
+Driver (S.R.). D.D., Canon of Christ Church, Regius Professor of
+Hebrew in the University of Oxford. SERMONS ON SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH
+THE OLD TESTAMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Dryhurst (A.R.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Duguid (Charles), City Editor of the _Morning Post,_ Author of the
+'Story of the Stock Exchange,' etc. See Books on Business.
+
+Duncan (S.J.) (Mrs. COTES), Author of 'A Voyage of
+Consolation.' ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LATCH. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Dunn (J.T.), D.Sc., and Mundella (V.A.). GENERAL ELEMENTARY
+SCIENCE. With 114 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Dunstan (A.E.), B.Sc., Head of the Chemical Department, East Ham
+Technical College. See Junior School Books.
+
+*Durham (The Earl Of). A REPORT ON CANADA. With an Introductory Note.
+_Demy 8vo. 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Dutt (W.A.). A POPULAR GUIDE TO NORFOLK. _Medium 8vo. 6d. net._ THE
+NORFOLK BROADS. With coloured and other Illustrations by FRANK
+SOUTHGATE. _Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net._ See also The Little Guides.
+
+Earle (John), Bishop of Salisbury. MICROCOSMOGRAPHE, OR A PIECE OF THE
+WORLD DISCOVERED; IN ESSAYES AND CHARACTERS. _Post 16mo. 2s. net._
+Reprinted from the Sixth Edition published by Robert Allot in 1633.
+
+Edwards (Clement). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Edwards (W. Douglas). See Commercial Series.
+
+*Edwards (Betham). HOME LIFE IN FRANCE. With many Illustrations. _Demy
+8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Egan (Pierce). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Egerton (H.E.), M.A. A HISTORY OF BRITISH COLONIAL POLICY. _Demy 8vo.
+12s. 6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Ellaby (C.G.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Ellerton (P.G.). See S. I. Stone.
+
+Ellwood (Thomas), THE HISTORY OF THE LIFE OF. Edited by C.G. CRUMP, M.A.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Engel (E.). A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE: From its Beginning to
+Tennyson. Translated from the German. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Fairbrother (W.H.), M.A. THE PHILOSOPHY OF T. H. GREEN. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+FELISSA; OR, THE LIFE AND OPINIONS OF A KITTEN OF SENTIMENT. With 12
+Coloured Plates. _Post 16mo. 2s. 6d. net._ (5-1/2 X 3-1/2).
+From the edition published by J. Harris, 1811.
+
+Farrer (Reginald). THE GARDEN OF ASIA. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Ferrier (Susan). See Little Library.
+
+Fidler (T. Claxton), M. Inst. C.E., Professor of Engineering, University
+College, Dundee in the University of St. Andrews. See Books on Business.
+
+Fielding (Henry). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Finn (S.W.), M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Firth (C.H.), M.A. CROMWELL'S ARMY: A History of the English Soldier
+during the Civil Wars, the Commonwealth, and the Protectorate. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Fisher (G.W.), M.A. ANNALS OF SHREWSBURY SCHOOL. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+FitzGerald (Edward). THE RUB'AIYAT OF OMAR KHAYY�M. Printed from the
+Fifth and last Edition. With a Commentary by Mrs. STEPHEN BATSON, and a
+Biography of Omar by E.D. Ross. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Miniature
+Library.
+
+Flecker (W.H.), M.A., D.C.L., Headmaster of the Dean Close School,
+Cheltenham. THE STUDENT'S PRAYER BOOK. Part I. MORNING AND EVENING
+PRAYER AND LITANY. With an Introduction and Notes. _Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Flux (A.W.), M.A., William Dow Professor of Political Economy in
+M'Gill University, Montreal: sometime Fellow of St. John's College,
+Cambridge, and formerly Stanley-Jevons Professor of Political Economy
+in the Owens Coll., Manchester. ECONOMIC PRINCIPLES. _Demy 8vo. 7s.
+6d. net._
+
+Fortescue (Mrs. G.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Fraser (David). A MODERN CAMPAIGN; OR, WAR AND WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY
+IN THE FAR EAST. Illustrated. _Crown. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fraser (J.F.). ROUND THE WORLD ON A WHEEL. With 100 Illustrations.
+_Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+French (W.). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Freudenreich (Ed. von). DAIRY BACTERIOLOGY. A Short Manual for the Use
+of Students. Translated by J.R. AINSWORTH DAVIS, M.A. _Second Edition.
+Revised. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Fulford (H.W.), M.A. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+C.G. and F.C.G. JOHN BULL'S ADVENTURES IN THE FISCAL WONDERLAND. By
+CHARLES GEAKE. With 46 Illustrations by F. CARRUTHERS GOULD. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Gallichan (W.M.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Gambado (Geoffrey, Esq.). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Gaskell (Mrs.). See Little Library.
+
+Gasquet, the Right Rev. Abbot, O.S.B. See Antiquary's Books.
+
+George (H.B.), M.A., Fellow of New College, Oxford. BATTLES OF ENGLISH
+HISTORY. With numerous Plans. _Fourth Edition._ Revised, with a new
+Chapter including the South African War. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Gibbins (H. de B.), Litt. D., M.A. INDUSTRY IN ENGLAND: HISTORICAL
+OUTLINES. With 5 Maps. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+A COMPANION GERMAN GRAMMAR. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. _Tenth Edition._ Revised. With Maps
+and Plans. _Crown 8vo. 3s._
+ENGLISH SOCIAL REFORMERS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._ See
+also Commercial Series and Social Questions Series.
+
+Gibbon (Edward). THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. A New
+Edition, edited with Notes, Appendices, and Maps, by J.B. BURY, M.A.,
+Litt. D., Regius Professor of Greek at Cambridge. _In Seven Volumes.
+Demy 8vo. Gilt top, 8s. 6d. each. Also, Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+MEMOIRS OF MY LIFE AND WRITINGS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by G. BIRKBECK HILL, LL.D. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Gibson (E.C.S.), D.D., Vicar of Leeds. See Westminster Commentaries,
+Handbooks of Theology, and Oxford Biographies.
+
+Gilbert (A.R.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Godfrey (Elizabeth). A BOOK OF REMEMBRANCE. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Godley (A.D.), M.A., Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. LYRA FRIVOLA.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+VERSES TO ORDER. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+SECOND STRINGS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Goldsmith (Oliver). THE VICAR OF WAKEFIELD. With 24 Coloured Plates by
+T. ROWLANDSON. _Royal 8vo. One Guinea net._
+Reprinted from the edition of 1817. Also _Fcap. 32mo._ With 10 Plates in
+Photogravure by Tony Johannot. _Leather, 2s. 6d. net._ See also
+Illustrated Pocket Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Goudge (H.L.), M.A., Principal of Wells Theological College. See
+Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Graham (P. Anderson). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Granger (F.S.), M.A., Litt.D. PSYCHOLOGY. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._ THE SOUL OF A CHRISTIAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gray (E. M'Queen). GERMAN PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Gray (P.L.), B.Sc., formerly Lecturer in Physics in Mason University
+College, Birmingham. THE PRINCIPLES OF MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY: an
+Elementary Text-Book. With 181 Diagrams. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Green (G. Buckland), M.A., Assistant Master at Edinburgh Academy, late
+Fellow of St. John's College, Oxon. NOTES ON GREEK AND LATIN SYNTAX.
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Green (E.T.), M.A. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Greenidge (A.H.J.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ROME: During the Later Republic
+and the Early Principate. _In Six Volumes. Demy 8vo._ Vol. I. (133-104
+B.C.). _10s. 6d. net._
+
+Greenwell (Dora). See Miniature Library.
+
+Gregory (R.A.) THE VAULT OF HEAVEN. A Popular Introduction to Astronomy.
+With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Gregory (Miss E.C.). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Greville Minor. A MODERN JOURNAL. Edited by J.A. SPENDER. _Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Grinling (C.H.). A HISTORY OF THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, 1845-95. With
+Illustrations. Revised, with an additional chapter. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+Grubb (H.C.). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Guiney (Louisa I.). HURRELL FROUDE: Memoranda and Comments. Illustrated.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Gwynn (M.L.). A BIRTHDAY BOOK. _Royal 8vo. 12s._
+
+Hackett (John), B.D. A HISTORY OF THE ORTHODOX CHURCH OF CYPRUS. With
+Maps and Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Haddon (A.C.), Sc.D., F.R.S. HEAD-HUNTERS, BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN.
+With many Illustrations and a Map. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Hadfield (R.A.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hall (R.N.) and Neal (W.G.). THE ANCIENT RUINS OF RHODESIA. With
+numerous Illustrations. _Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Hall (R.N.). GREAT ZIMBABWE. With numerous Plans and Illustrations.
+_Royal 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hamilton (F.J.), D.D. See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Hammond (J.L.). CHARLES JAMES FOX: A Biographical Study. _Demy 8vo.
+10s. 6d._
+
+Hannay (D.). A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ROYAL NAVY, FROM EARLY TIMES TO THE
+PRESENT DAY. Illustrated. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. each._
+Vol. I. 1200-1688.
+
+Hannay (James O.), M.A. THE SPIRIT AND ORIGIN OF CHRISTIAN MONASTICISM.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._ THE WISDOM OF THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Hare, (A.T.), M.A. THE CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE INDUCTION COILS. With
+numerous Diagrams. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+Harrison (Clifford). READING AND READERS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Hawthorne (Nathaniel). See Little Library. HEALTH, WEALTH AND WISDOM.
+_Crown 8vo. 1s. net._
+
+Heath (Frank R.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Heath (Dudley). See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Hello (Ernest). STUDIES IN SAINTSHIP. Translated from the French by
+V.M. CRAWFORD. _Fcap 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Henderson (B.W.). Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford. THE LIFE AND
+PRINCIPATE OF THE EMPEROR NERO. With Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s.
+6d. net._
+
+Henderson (T.F.). See Little Library and Oxford Biographies.
+
+Henley (W.E.). ENGLISH LYRICS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Henley (W.E.) and Whibley (C.). A BOOK OF ENGLISH PROSE. _Crown 8vo.
+Buckram, gilt top. 6s._
+
+Henson (H.H.), B.D., Canon of Westminster. APOSTOLIC CHRISTIANITY:
+As Illustrated by the Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+LIGHT AND LEAVEN: HISTORICAL AND SOCIAL SERMONS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+DISCIPLINE AND LAW. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Herbert (George). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Herbert Of Cherbury (Lord). See Miniature Library.
+
+Hewins (W.A.S.), B.A. ENGLISH TRADE AND FINANCE IN THE SEVENTEENTH
+CENTURY. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Heywood (W.). PALIO AND PONTE: A Book of Tuscan Games. Illustrated.
+_Royal 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hilbert (T.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Hill (Glare), Registered Teacher to the City and Guilds of London
+Institute. See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Hill (Henry), B.A., Headmaster of the Boy's High School, Worcester,
+Cape Colony. A SOUTH AFRICAN ARITHMETIC. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+This book has been specially written for use in South African schools.
+
+Hillegas (Howard C.). WITH THE BOER FORCES. With 24 Illustrations.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hobhouse (Emily). THE BRUNT OF THE WAR. With Map and Illustrations.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Hobhouse (L.T.), Fellow of C.C.C., Oxford. THE THEORY OF KNOWLEDGE.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Hobson (J.A.), M.A. INTERNATIONAL TRADE: A Study of Economic Principles.
+_Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._ See also Social Questions Series.
+
+Hodgkin (T.), D.C.L. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hogg (Thomas Jefferson). SHELLEY AT OXFORD. With an Introduction by
+R.A. STREATFEILD. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. net._
+
+Holden-Stone (G. de). See Books on Business.
+
+Holdich (Sir T.H.). K.C.I.E. THE INDIAN BORDERLAND: being a Personal
+Record of Twenty Years. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Holdsworth (W.S.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. _In Two Volumes.
+Vol. I. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Holyoake (G.J.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hoppner. See Little Galleries.
+
+Horace. See Classical Translations.
+
+Horsburgh (E.L.S.), M.A. WATERLOO: A Narrative and Criticism. With
+Plans. _Second Edition. Crown. 8vo. 5s._ See also Oxford Biographies.
+
+Horth (A.C.)., Master of Art and Manual Training Departments, Roan
+School, Greenwich. See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Horton (R.F.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hosie (Alexander). MANCHURIA. With Illustrations and a Map. _Second
+Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+How (F.D.). SIX GREAT SCHOOLMASTERS. With Portraits and Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Howell (G.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hudson (Robert), MEMORIALS OF A WARWICKSHIRE PARISH. With many
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Hughes (C.E.). THE PRAISE OF SHAKESPEARE. An English Anthology. With
+a Preface by SIDNEY LEE. _Demy 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Hughes (Thomas). TOM BROWN'S SCHOOLDAYS. With an Introduction and
+Notes by VERNON RENDALL. _Leather. Royal 32mo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Hutchinson (Horace G.). THE NEW FOREST. Described by. Illustrated in
+colour with 50 Pictures by WALTER TYNDALE and 4 by Miss LUCY KEMP WELCH.
+_Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hutton (A.W.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hutton (R.H.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hutton (W.H.), M.A. THE LIFE OF SIR THOMAS MORE. With Portraits.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 5s._ See also Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hyett (F.A.). A SHORT HISTORY OF FLORENCE. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Ibsen (Henrik). BRAND. A Drama. Translated by WILLIAM WILSON. _Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Inge (W.R.), M.A., Fellow and Tutor of Hertford College, Oxford.
+CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. The Bampton Lectures for 1899. _Demy 8vo. 12s.
+6d. net_, See also Library of Devotion.
+
+Innes (A.D.), M.A. A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH IN INDIA. With Maps and
+Plans. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Jackson (S.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+Jackson (F. Hamilton). See The Little Guides.
+
+Jacob (F.), M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Jeans (J. Stephen). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Jeffreys (D. Gwyn). DOLLY'S THEATRICALS. Described and Illustrated
+with 24 Coloured Pictures. _Super Royal 16mo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Jenks (E.), M.A., Reader of Law in the University of Oxford. ENGLISH
+LOCAL GOVERNMENT. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Jessopp (Augustus), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Jevons (F.B.), M.A., Litt.D., Principal of Hatfield Hall, Durham. See
+Churchman's Library and Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Johnson (Mrs. Barham). WILLIAM BODHAM DONNE AND HIS FRIENDS. With
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Johnston (Sir H.H.), K.C.B. BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA. With nearly 200
+Illustrations and Six Maps. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 18s. net._
+
+Jones (H.). See Commercial Series.
+
+Jones (L.A. Atherley), K.C., M.P., and Bellot (Hugh H.L.). THE MINERS'
+GUIDE TO THE COAL MINES' REGULATION ACTS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Jonson (Ben). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Julian (Lady) Of Norwich. REVELATIONS OF DIVINE LOVE. Edited by GRACE
+WARRACK. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Juvenal. See Classical Translations.
+
+Kaufmann (M.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Keating (J.F.), D.D. THE AGAPE AND THE EUCHARIST. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Keats (John). THE POEMS OF. Edited with Introduction and Notes by E.
+de Selincourt, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._ See also Little Library
+and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Keble (John). THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. With an Introduction and Notes by W.
+LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College. Illustrated by R. ANNING BELL.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; padded morocco, 5s._ See also
+Library of Devotion.
+
+Kempis (Thomas A.). THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. With an Introduction by
+DEAN FARRAR. Illustrated by C.M. GERE. _Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s.
+6d.; padded morocco, 5s._ See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's
+Universal Library.
+Also Translated by C. BIGG, D.D. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Kennedy (James Houghton), D.D., Assistant Lecturer in Divinity in the
+University of Dublin. ST. PAUL'S SECOND AND THIRD EPISTLES TO THE
+CORINTHIANS. With Introduction, Dissertations and Notes. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Kestell (J.D.). THROUGH SHOT AND FLAME: Being the Adventures and
+Experiences of J.D. KESTELL, Chaplain to General Christian de Wet.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Kimmins (C.W.), M.A. THE CHEMISTRY OF LIFE AND HEALTH. Illustrated.
+_Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Kinglake (A.W.). See Little Library.
+
+Kipling (Rudyard). BARRACK-ROOM BALLADS. _73rd Thousand. Cr. 8vo.
+Twentieth Edition. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE SEVEN SEAS. _62nd Thousand. Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo, gilt top,
+6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE FIVE NATIONS. _41st Thousand. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. _Sixteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Knowling (E.J.), M.A., Professor of New Testament Exegesis at King's
+College, London. See Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Lamb (Charles and Mary), THE WORKS OF. Edited by E.V. LUCAS. With
+Numerous Illustrations. _In Seven Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. each._
+THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. With over 100 Illustrations by A. GARTH JONES, and
+an Introduction by E.V. LUCAS. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+THE KING AND QUEEN OF HEARTS: An 1805 Book for Children. Illustrated
+by WILLIAM MULREADY. A new edition, in facsimile, edited by E.V.
+LUCAS, _1s. 6d._
+See also Little Library.
+
+Lambert (F.A.H.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Lambros (Professor). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Lane-Poole (Stanley). A HISTORY OF EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. Fully
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Langbridge (F.), M.A., BALLADS OF THE BRAVE: Poems of Chivalry.
+Enterprise, Courage, and Constancy. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Law (William). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Leach (Henry). THE DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. A Biography. With 12
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo, 12s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+*Lee (Captain L. Melville). A HISTORY OF POLICE IN ENGLAND. _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Leigh (Percival). THE COMIC ENGLISH GRAMMAR. Embellished with upwards
+of 50 characteristic Illustrations by JOHN LEECH. _Post 16mo. 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Lewes (V.B.), M.A. AIR AND WATER. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Lisle (Fortun�e de). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Littlehales (H.). See Antiquary's Books.
+
+Lock (Walter), D.D., Warden of Keble College. ST. PAUL, THE
+MASTER-BUILDER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._ See also Leaders
+of Religion.
+
+Locke (John). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Locker (F.). See Little Library.
+
+Longfellow (H.W.) See Little Library.
+
+Lorimer (George Horace). LETTERS FROM A SELF-MADE MERCHANT TO HIS SON.
+_Twelfth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+OLD GORGON GRAHAM. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Lover (Samuel). See Illustrated Pocket Library
+
+E.V.L. and C.L.G. ENGLAND DAY BY DAY: Or, The Englishman's Handbook to
+Efficiency. Illustrated by GEORGE MORROW. _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 4to.
+1s. net._
+A burlesque Year-Book and Almanac.
+
+Lucas (E.V.). THE LIFE OF CHARLES LAMB. With numerous Portraits and
+Illustrations. _Two Vols. Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Lucian. See Classical Translations.
+
+Lyde (L.W.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+Lydon (Noel S.). See Junior School Books.
+
+Lyttelton (Hon. Mrs. A.). WOMEN AND THEIR WORK. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+M.M. HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR. _Crown 8vo, 1s. net._
+
+Macaulay (Lord). CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL ESSAYS. Edited by F.C.
+MONTAGUE, M.A. _Three Volumes. Cr. 8vo. 18s._
+The only edition of this book completely annotated.
+
+M'Allen (J.E.B.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+MacCulloch (J.A.). See Churchman's Library.
+
+MacCunn (F.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+McDermott, (E.R.), Editor of the _Railway News_, City Editor of the
+_Daily News_. See Books on Business.
+
+M'Dowall (A.S.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Mackay (A.M.). See Churchman's Library.
+
+Magnus (Laurie), M.A. A PRIMER OF WORDSWORTH. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Mahaffy (J.P.), Litt. D. A HISTORY OF THE EGYPT OF THE PTOLEMIES.
+Fully Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Maitland (F.W.). LL.D., Downing Professor of the Laws of England in
+the University of Cambridge. CANON LAW IN ENGLAND. _Royal 8vo. 7s.
+6d._
+
+Maiden (H.E.), M.A. ENGLISH RECORDS. A Companion to the History of
+England. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE ENGLISH CITIZEN: HIS RIGHTS AND DUTIES. _Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Marchant (E.C.), M.A., Fellow of Peterhouse, Cambridge. A GREEK
+ANTHOLOGY. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Marchant (B.C.), M.A., and Cook (A.M.), M.A. PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN
+TRANSLATION. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Marlowe (Christopher). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Marr (J.E.), F.R.S., Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. THE
+SCIENTIFIC STUDY OF SCENERY. _Second Edition._ Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+AGRICULTURAL GEOLOGY. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Marvell (Andrew). See Little Library.
+
+Maskell (A.) See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Mason (A.J.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Massee (George). THE EVOLUTION OF PLANT LIFE: Lower Forms. With
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Masterman (C.F.G.), M.A. TENNYSON AS A RELIGIOUS TEACHER, _Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+May (Phil). THE PHIL MAY ALBUM. _Second Edition, 4to. 1s. net._
+
+Mellows (Emma S.). A SHORT STORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Michell (E.B.). THE ART AND PRACTICE OF HAWKING. With 3 Photogravures
+by G.E. LODGE, and other Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+*Millais (J.G.). THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF SIR JOHN EVERETT MILLAIS,
+President of the Royal Academy. With 319 Illustrations, of which 9 are
+in Photogravure. _New Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Millais (Sir John Everett). See Little Galleries.
+
+Millis (C.T.), M.I.M.E., Principal of the Borough Polytechnic College.
+See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Milne (J.G.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ROMAN EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Milton, John, THE POEMS OF, BOTH ENGLISH AND LATIN, Compos'd at several
+times. Printed by his true Copies.
+The Songs were set in Musick by Mr. HENRY LAWES, Gentleman of the
+Kings Chappel, and one of His Majesties Private Musick.
+Printed and published according to Order.
+Printed by RUTH RAWORTH for HUMPHREY MOSELEV, and are to be sold at
+the signe of the Princes Armes in Pauls Churchyard, 1645.
+See also Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Minchin (H.C.), M.A. See Little Galleries.
+
+Mitchell (P. Chalmers), M.A. OUTLINES OF BIOLOGY. Illustrated. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A text-book designed to cover the Schedule issued by the Royal College
+of Physicians and Surgeons.
+
+'Moil (A.)'. See Books on Business.
+
+Moir (D.M.). See Little Library.
+
+Moore (H.E.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Moran (Clarence G.). See Books on Business.
+
+More (Sir Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Morfill (W.R.), Oriel College, Oxford. A HISTORY OF RUSSIA FROM PETER
+THE GREAT TO ALEXANDER II. With Maps and Plans. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Morich (R.J.), late of Clifton College. See School Examination
+Series.
+
+Morris (J.E.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Morton (Miss Anderson). See Miss Brodrick.
+
+Moule (H.C.G.), D.D., Lord Bishop of Durham. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Muir (M.M. Pattison), M.A. THE CHEMISTRY OF FIRE. The Elementary
+Principles of Chemistry. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Mundella (V.A.), M.A. See J.T. Dunn.
+
+Munro (R.), LL. D. See The Antiquary's Books.
+
+Naval Officer (A). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Neal (W.G.). See R.N. Hall.
+
+Newman (J.H.) and Others. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Nichols (J.B.B.). See Little Library.
+
+Nicklin (T.), M.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN THUCYDIDES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Nimrod. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Northcote (James), R.A. THE CONVERSATIONS OF JAMES NORTHCOTE, R.A.,
+AND JAMES WARD. Edited by ERNEST FLETCHER. With many Portraits. _Demy
+8vo 10s. 6d._
+
+*Norway (A.H.), Author of 'Highways and Byways in Devon and Cornwall.'
+NAPLES. With 24 Coloured Illustrations by MAURICE GREIFFENHAGEN. A New
+Edition. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Novalis. THE DISCIPLES AT SA�S AND OTHER FRAGMENTS. Edited by Miss UNA
+BIRCH. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Oman (C.W.C.), M.A., Fellow of All Souls', Oxford. A HISTORY OF THE
+ART OF WAR. Vol. II.: The Middle Ages, from the Fourth to the
+Fourteenth Century. Illustrated, _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Ottley (R.L.), D.D., Professor of Pastoral Theology at Oxford and
+Canon of Christ Church. See Handbooks of Theology and Leaders of
+Religion.
+
+Owen (Douglas), Barrister-at-Law, Secretary to the Alliance Marine and
+General Assurance Company. See Books on Business.
+
+Oxford (M.N.), of Guy's Hospital. A HANDBOOK OF NURSING. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Pakes (W.C.C.). THE SCIENCE OF HYGIENE. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 15s._
+
+Palmer (Frederick). WITH KUROKI IN MANCHURIA With many Illustrations.
+_Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Parker (Gilbert). A LOVER'S DIARY: SONGS IN SEQUENCE. _Fcap. 8vo. 5s._
+
+Parkinson (John). PARADISI IN SOLE PARADISUS TERRISTRIS, OR A GARDEN
+OF ALL SORTS OF PLEASANT FLOWERS. _Folio. �5, 5s. net._
+Also an Edition of 20 copies on Japanese vellum. _Ten Guineas net._
+
+Parmenter (John). HELIO-TROPES, OR NEW POSIES FOR SUNDIALS, 1625.
+Edited by PERCIVAL LANDON. _Quarto. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Parmentier (Prof. L�on). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Pascal. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Paston (George). SOCIAL CARICATURES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+_Imperial Quarto. �2, 12s. 6d. net._ See also Little Books on Art and
+Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Paterson (W.R.) (Benjamin Swift). LIFE'S QUESTIONINGS. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d. net._
+
+Patterson (A.H.). NOTES OF AN EAST COAST NATURALIST. Illustrated in
+Colour by F. SOUTHGATE. _Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Peacock (N.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Pearce (E.H.), M.A. ANNALS OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. With many
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Peary (R.E.), Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society.
+NORTHWARD OVER THE GREAT ICE. With over 800 Illustrations, _2 vols.
+Royal 8vo. 32s. net._
+
+Peel (Sidney), late Fellow of Trinity College, Oxford, and Secretary
+to the Royal Commission on the Licensing Laws. PRACTICAL LICENSING
+REFORM. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Peters (J.P.), D.D. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Petrie (W.M. Flinders), D.C.L., LL.D., Professor of Egyptology at
+University College. A HISTORY OF EGYPT, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE
+PRESENT DAY. Fully Illustrated. _In six volumes. Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+VOL. I. PREHISTORIC TIMES TO XVITH DYNASTY. _Fifth Edition._
+VOL. II. THE XVIITH AND XVIIITH DYNASTIES. _Fourth Edition._
+VOL. III. XIXTH TO XXXTH DYNASTIES.
+VOL. IV. THE EGYPT OF THE PTOLEMIES. J.P. MAHAFFY, Litt.D.
+VOL. V. ROMAN EGYPT. J.G. MILNE, M.A.
+VOL. VI. EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. STANLEY LANE-POOLE, M.A.
+RELIGION AND CONSCIENCE IN ANCIENT EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+SYRIA AND EGYPT, FROM THE TELL EL AMARNA TABLETS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+EGYPTIAN TALES. Illustrated by TRISTRAM ELLIS. _In Two Volumes. Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d. each._
+EGYPTIAN DECORATIVE ART. With 120 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Phillips (W.A.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). MY DEVON YEAR. With 38 Illustrations by J. LEY
+PETHYBRIDGE. _Second and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pienaar (Philip). WITH STEYN AND DE WET. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d._
+
+Plautus. THE CAPTIVI. Edited, with an Introduction, Textual Notes, and
+a Commentary, by W.M. LINDSAY, Fellow of Jesus College, Oxford. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Plowden-Wardlaw (J.T.), B.A., King's Coll. Camb. See School Examination
+Series.
+
+Pocock (Roger). A FRONTIERSMAN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Podmore (Frank). MODERN SPIRITUALISM. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+A History and a Criticism.
+
+Poer (J. Patrick Le). A MODERN LEGIONARY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Pollard (Alice). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Pollard (A.W.). OLD PICTURE BOOKS. With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo.
+7s. 6d. net._
+
+Pollard (Eliza F.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Pollock (David), M.I.N.A., Author of 'Modern Shipbuilding and the Men
+engaged in it', etc., etc. See Books on Business.
+
+Potter (M.C.), M.A., F.L.S. A TEXT-BOOK OF AGRICULTURAL BOTANY.
+Illustrated. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d._
+
+Potter Boy (An Old), WHEN I WAS A CHILD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pradeau (G.). A KEY TO THE TIME ALLUSIONS IN THE DIVINE COMEDY. With a
+Dial. _Small quarto. 3s. 6d._
+
+Prance (G.). See R. Wyon.
+
+Prescott (O.L.). ABOUT MUSIC, AND WHAT IT IS MADE OF. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d. net._
+
+Price (L.L.), M.A., Fellow of Oriel College, Oxon. A HISTORY OF
+ENGLISH POLITICAL ECONOMY. _Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Primrose (Deborah). A MODERN BOEOTIA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+PROTECTION AND INDUSTRY. By various Writers. _Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d. net._
+
+Pugin and Rowlandson. THE MICROCOSM OF LONDON, OR LONDON IN MINIATURE.
+With 104 Illustrations in colour. _In Three Volumes. Small 4to. �3,
+3s. net._
+
+'Q' (A.T. Quiller Couch). THE GOLDEN POMP. A Procession of English
+Lyrics. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Quevedo Villegas. See Miniature Library.
+
+G.R. and E.S. THE WOODHOUSE CORRESPONDENCE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rackham (R.B.), M.A. See Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Randolph (B.W.), D.D., Principal of the Theological College, Ely. See
+Library of Devotion.
+
+Rannie (D.W.), M.A. A STUDENT'S HISTORY OF SCOTLAND. _Cr. 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Rashdall (Hastings), M.A., Fellow and Tutor of New College, Oxford.
+DOCTRINE AND DEVELOPMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rawstorne (Lawrence, Esq.). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+A Real Paddy. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Reason (W.), M.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Redfern (W.B.), Author of 'Ancient Wood and Iron Work in Cambridge,'
+etc. ROYAL AND HISTORIC GLOVES AND ANCIENT SHOES. Profusely Illustrated
+in colour and half-tone. _Quarto, �2, 2s. net._
+
+Reynolds. See Little Galleries.
+
+Roberts (M.E.). See C.C. Channer.
+
+Robertson, (A.), D.D., Lord Bishop of Exeter. REGNUM DEI. The Bampton
+Lectures of 1901. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
+
+Robertson (C. Grant), M.A., Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford,
+Examiner in the Honour School of Modern History, Oxford, 1901-1904.
+SELECT STATUTES, CASES, AND CONSTITUTIONAL DOCUMENTS, 1660-1832. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+*Robertson (Sir G.S.), K.C.S.I. CHITRAL: The Story of a Minor Siege.
+With numerous Illustrations, Map and Plans. _Fourth Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Robinson (A.W.), M.A. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+Robinson (Cecilia). THE MINISTRY OF DEACONESSES. With an Introduction
+by the late Archbishop of Canterbury. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Rochefoucauld (La), See Little Library.
+
+Rodwell (G.), B.A. NEW TESTAMENT GREEK. A Course for Beginners. With a
+Preface by WALTER LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Roe (Fred). ANCIENT COFFERS AND CUPBOARDS: Their History and
+Description. With many Illustrations. _Quarto. �3, 3s. net._
+
+Rogers (A.G.L.), M.A., Editor of the last volume of 'The History of
+Agriculture and Prices in England.' See Books on Business.
+
+Romney. See Little Galleries.
+
+Roscoe (E.S.). ROBERT HARLEY, EARL OF OXFORD. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo.
+7s. 6d._ This is the only life of Harley in existence.
+See also The Little Guides.
+
+Rose (Edward). THE ROSE READER. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d. Also in 4 Parts. Parts I. and II. 6d. each; Part III.
+8d.; Part IV. 10d._
+
+Rubie (A.E.). D.D., Head Master of College, Eltham. See Junior School
+Books.
+
+Russell (W. Clark). THE LIFE OF ADMIRAL LORD COLLINGWOOD. With
+Illustrations by F. BRANGWYN. _Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+St. Anselm. See Library of Devotion.
+
+St. Augustine. See Library of Devotion.
+
+'Saki' (H. Munro). REGINALD. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Sales (St. Francis de). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Salmon (A.L.). A POPULAR GUIDE TO DEVON. _Medium 8vo. 6d. net._ See
+also The Little Guides.
+
+Sargeaunt (J.), M.A. ANNALS OF WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Sathas (C.). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Schmitt (John). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Scott, (A.M.) WINSTON SPENCER CHURCHILL. With Portraits and
+Illustrations. _Crown_ 8vo. 3s. 6d.
+
+Seeley (H.G.) F.R.S. DRAGONS OF THE AIR. With many Illustrations. _Cr.
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Selincourt (E. de), M.A. THE POEMS OF JOHN KEATS. With an Introduction
+and Notes, and a Portrait in Photogravure. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Sells (V.P.), M.A. THE MECHANICS OF DAILY LIFE. Illustrated. _Cr. 8vo.
+2s. 6d._
+
+Selous (Edmund). TOMMY SMITH'S ANIMALS. Illustrated by G.W. ORD.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Settle (J.H.). ANECDOTES OF SOLDIERS. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Shakespeare (William).
+THE FOUR FOLIOS, 1623; 1632; 1664; 1685. Each _Four Guineas net_, or a
+complete set. _Twelve Guineas net._
+
+The Arden Shakespeare. _
+Demy 8vo. 2s. 6d. net each volume_. General Editor, W.J. CRAIG. An
+Edition of Shakespeare in single Plays. Edited with a full Introduction,
+Textual Notes, and a Commentary at the foot of the page.
+HAMLET. Edited by EDWARD DOWDEN, Litt.D. ROMEO AND
+JULIET. Edited by EDWARD DOWDEN, Litt.D. KING LEAR. Edited by W.J.
+CRAIG.
+JULIUS CAESAR. Edited by M. MACMILLAN, M.A. THE TEMPEST. Edited by
+MORETON LUCE.
+OTHELLO. Edited by H.C. HART.
+TITUS ANDRONICUS. Edited by H.B. BAILDON.
+CYMBELINE. Edited by EDWARD DOWDEN.
+THE MERRY WIVES OF WINDSOR. Edited by H.C. HART.
+A MIDSUMMER NIGHT'S DREAM. Edited by H. CUNINGHAM.
+KING HENRY V. Edited by H.A. EVANS.
+ALL'S WELL THAT ENDS WELL. Edited by W.O. BRIGSTOCKE.
+THE TAMING OF THE SHREW. Edited by R. WARWICK BOND.
+TIMON OF ATHENS. Edited by K. DEIGHTON.
+
+The Little Quarto Shakespeare. Edited by W.J. CRAIG. With Introductions
+and Notes. _Pott 16mo. In 40 Volumes. Leather, price 1s. net each
+volume._ See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Sharp (A.). VICTORIAN POETS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Sharp (Mrs. E.A.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Shedlock (J.S.). THE PIANOFORTE SONATA: Its Origin and Development.
+_Crown 8vo. 5s._
+
+Shelley (Percy B.). ADONAIS; an Elegy on the death of John Keats,
+Author of 'Endymion,' etc. Pisa. From the types of Didot, 1821. _2s.
+net._ See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Sherwell (Arthur). M.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+*Shipley (Mary E.). AN ENGLISH CHURCH HISTORY FOR CHILDREN. With a
+Preface by the Bishop of Gibraltar, late Professor of Ecclesiastical
+History at King's College, London. With Maps and Illustrations. Part
+I. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Sichel (Walter). DISRAELI: A Study in Personality and Ideas. With 3
+Portraits. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._ A Colonial Edition is also
+published. See also Oxford Biographies.
+
+Sime (J.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Simonson (G.A). FRANCESCO GUARDI. With 41 Plates. _Royal folio. �2. 2s.
+net._
+
+Sketchley (R.E.D.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Skipton (H.P.K.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Sladen (Douglas). SICILY. With over 200 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 5s.
+net._
+
+Small (Evan), M.A. THE EARTH. An Introduction to Physiography.
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Smallwood, (M.O.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Smedley (F.E). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Smith (Adam). THE WEALTH OF NATIONS. Edited with an Introduction and
+numerous Notes by EDWIN CANNAN, M.A. _Two volumes. Demy 8vo. 21s.
+net._ See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Smith (Horace and James). See Little Library.
+
+Snell (P.J.). A BOOK OF EXMOOR. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sophocles. See Classical Translations.
+
+Sornet (L.A.), Modern Language Master at King Edward School, Birmingham.
+See Junior School Books.
+
+South (Wilton E.), M.A. See Junior School Books.
+
+Southey (R.) ENGLISH SEAMEN. Edited, with an Introduction, by DAVID
+HANNAY.
+Vol. 1. (Howard, Clifford, Hawkins, Drake, Cavendish). _Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+Vol. II. (Richard Hawkins, Grenville, Essex, and Raleigh). _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Spence (C.H.), M.A., Clifton College. See School Examination Series.
+
+Spooner (W.A.), M.A., Warden of New College, Oxford. See Leaders of
+Religion.
+
+Stanbridge (J.W.), B.D., late Canon of York, and sometime Fellow of
+St. John's College, Oxford. See Library of Devotion.
+
+'Stancliffe.' GOLF DO'S AND DONT'S. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s._
+
+Stedman (A.M.M.), M.A.
+INITIA LATINA: Easy Lessons on Elementary Accidence. _Seventh Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. 1s._
+FIRST LATIN LESSONS. _Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s._
+FIRST LATIN READER. With Notes adapted to the Shorter Latin Primer and
+Vocabulary. _Sixth Edition revised. 18mo. 1s. 6d._
+EASY SELECTIONS FROM C�SAR. The Helvetian War. _Second Edition. 18mo. 1s._
+EASY SELECTIONS FROM LIVY. Part I. The Kings of Rome. _18mo. Second
+Edition, 1s. 6d._
+EASY LATIN PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. _Tenth Edition. Fcap. 8vo.
+1s. 6d._
+EXEMPLA LATINA. First Exercises in Latin Accidence. With Vocabulary.
+_Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s._
+EASY LATIN EXERCISES ON THE SYNTAX OF THE SHORTER AND REVISED LATIN
+PRIMER. With Vocabulary. _Ninth and Cheaper Edition, rewritten. Crown
+8vo. 1s. 6d. Original Edition, 2s. 6d._ KEY, 3s. _net._
+THE LATIN COMPOUND SENTENCE: Rules and Exercises. _Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._ With Vocabulary. 2s.
+NOTANDA QUAEDAM: Miscellaneous Latin Exercises on Common Rules and
+Idioms. _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d._ With Vocabulary, 2s. Key,
+_2s. net._
+LATIN VOCABULARIES FOR REPETITION: Arranged according to Subjects.
+_Twelfth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+A VOCABULARY OF LATIN IDIOMS. _18mo. Second Edition, 1s._ STEPS TO
+GREEK. _Second Edition, revised. 18mo. 1s._
+A SHORTER GREEK PRIMER. _Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+EASY GREEK PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. _Third Edition, revised.
+Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+GREEK VOCABULARIES FOR REPETITION. Arranged according to Subjects.
+_Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+GREEK TESTAMENT SELECTIONS. For the use of Schools. With Introduction.
+Notes, and Vocabulary. _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+STEPS TO FRENCH. _Sixth Edition. 18mo. 8d._
+FIRST FRENCH LESSONS. _Sixth Edition. revised. Crown 8vo. 1s._
+EASY FRENCH PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. _Fifth Edition. revised.
+Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+EASY FRENCH EXERCISES ON ELEMENTARY SYNTAX. With Vocabulary. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. KEY. 3s. net._
+FRENCH VOCABULARIES FOR REPETITION: Arranged according to Subjects.
+_Twelfth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s._
+
+Steel (R. Elliott) M.A., F.C.S. THE WORLD OF SCIENCE. Including
+Chemistry, Heat, Light, Sound, Magnetism, Electricity, Botany,
+Zoology, Physiology, Astronomy, and Geology. 147 Illustrations.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._ See also School Examination
+Series.
+
+Stephenson (C.), of the Technical College, Bradford, and Suddards (F.)
+of the Yorkshire College, Leeds. ORNAMENTAL DESIGN FOR WOVEN FABRICS.
+Illustrated. _Demy 8vo. Second Edition. 7s. 6d._
+
+Stephenson (J.), M.A. THE CHIEF TRUTHS OF THE CHRISTIAN FAITH _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Sterne (Laurence). See Little Library.
+
+Sterry (W.), M.A. ANNALS OF ETON COLLEGE. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Steuart (Katherine). BY ALLAN WATER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Stevenson (R.L.). THE LETTERS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON TO HIS FAMILY
+AND FRIENDS. Selected and Edited, with Notes and Introductions, by
+SIDNEY COLVIN. _Sixth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 12s._
+LIBRARY EDITION. _Demy 8vo. 2 vols. 25s. net._ A Colonial Edition is
+also published.
+VAILIMA LETTERS. With an Etched Portrait by WILLIAM STRANG. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE LIFE OF R.L. STEVENSON. See G. Balfour.
+
+Stevenson (M.I.). FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS. Being Letters written
+by Mrs. M.I. STEVENSON during 1887--8 to her sister, Miss JANE WHYTE
+BALFOUR. With an Introduction by GEORGE W. BALFOUR, M.D., LL.D.,
+F.R.S.S. _Crown 8vo. 6s. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Stoddart (Anna M.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Stone (E.D.), M.A., late Assistant Master at Eton. SELECTIONS FROM THE
+ODYSSEY. _Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Stone (S.J.). POEMS AND HYMNS. With a Memoir by F.G. ELLERTON, M.A.
+With Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Straker (F.), Assoc. of the Institute of Bankers, and Lecturer to the
+London Chamber of Commerce. See Books on Business.
+
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+Suddards (F.). See C. Stephenson.
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+A BOOK OF DEVOTIONS. Edited by J.W. Stanbridge. B.D. _Second Edition._
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+LYRA INNOCENTIUM. Edited by Walter Lock, D.D.
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+A SERIOUS CALL TO A DEVOUT AND HOLY LIFE. Edited by C. Bigg, D.D.
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+This volume is reprinted from the extremely rare and costly edition of
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
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+LIFE IN LONDON: or, the Day and Night Scenes of Jerry Hawthorn, Esq.,
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+*REAL LIFE IN LONDON: or, the Rambles and Adventures of Bob Tallyho,
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+A reproduction of a very rare book.
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+This book is completely different from the large folio edition of
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+
+GREEK ART. H.B. Walters. _Second Ed._
+
+BOOKPLATES. E. Almack.
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+REYNOLDS. J. Sime.
+
+ROMNEY. George Paston.
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+WATTS. Miss R.E.D. Sketchley.
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+LEIGHTON. Alice Corkran.
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+VELASQUEZ. Wilfrid Wilberforce and A.R. Gilbert.
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+GREUZE AND BOUCHER. Eliza F. Pollard.
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+VANDYCK. M.G. SMALLWOOD.
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+TURNER. F. Tyrell-Gill.
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+D�RER. Jessie Allen.
+
+HOPPNER. H.P.K. Skipton.
+
+HOLBEIN. Mrs. G. Fortescue.
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+BURNE-JONES. Fortun�e de Lisle.
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+REMBRANDT. Mrs. E.A. Sharp.
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+COROT. Alice Pollard and Ethel Birnstingl.
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+A LITTLE GALLERY OF ROMNEY.
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+
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+OXFORD AND ITS COLLEGES. By J. Wills, M.A. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+_Fourth Edition._
+
+CAMBRIDGE AND ITS COLLEGES. By A. Hamilton Thompson. _Second Edition._
+Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+THE MALVERN COUNTRY. By B.C.A. Windle, D.Sc, F.R.S. Illustrated by
+E.H. New.
+
+SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY. By B.C.A. Windle, D.Sc., F.R.S. Illustrated by
+E.H. New. _Second Edition._
+
+SUSSEX. By F.G. Brabant, M.A. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+WESTMINSTER ABBEY. By G.E. Troutbeck. Illustrated by F.D.Bedford.
+
+NORFOLK. By W.A. Dutt. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.
+
+CORNWALL. By A.L. Salmon. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.
+
+BRITTANY. By S. Baring-Gould. Illustrated by J. Wylie.
+
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+
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+
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+
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+
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT. By G. Clinch. Illustrated by F.D. Bedford.
+
+SURREY. By F.A.H. Lambert. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. By E.S. Roscoe. Illustrated by F.D. Bedford.
+
+SUFFOLK. By W.A. Dutt. Illustrated by J. Wylie.
+
+DERBYSHIRE. By J.C. COX, LL.D., F.S.A. Illustrated by J.C. Wall.
+
+THE NORTH RIDING OF YORKSHIRE. By J.E. Morris. Illustrated by R.J.S.
+Bertram.
+
+HAMPSHIRE. By J.C. Cox. Illustrated by M.E. Purser.
+
+SICILY. By F.H. Jackson. With many Illustrations by the Author.
+
+*DORSET. By Frank R. Heath. Illustrated.
+
+*CHESHIRE. By W.M. Gallichan. Illustrated by Elizabeth Hartley.
+
+
+Little Library, The
+
+With Introductions, Notes, and Photogravure Frontispieces.
+
+_Small Pott 8vo. Each Volume, cloth, 1s. 6d. net; leather, 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+A series of small books under the above title, containing some of the
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+of selections in prose and verse.
+
+The books are edited with the most sympathetic and scholarly care.
+Each one contains an introduction which gives (1) a short biography of
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+necessary, short notes are added at the foot of the page.
+
+Each volume has a photogravure frontispiece, and the books are
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+
+ENGLISH LYRICS, A LITTLE BOOK OF. Anon.
+
+PRIDE AND PREJUDICE. By Jane Austen. Edited by E.V. Lucas. _Two
+Volumes._
+
+NORTHANGER ABBEY. By Jane Austen. Edited by E.V. Lucas.
+
+THE ESSAYS OF LORD BACON. Edited by Edward Wright.
+
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+Volumes._
+
+A LITTLE BOOK OF ENGLISH PROSE. Edited by Mrs. P.A. Barnett.
+
+THE HISTORY OF THE CALIPH VATHEK. By William Beckford. Edited by E.
+Denison Ross.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM WILLIAM BLAKE. Edited by M. Perugini.
+
+LAVENGRO. By George Borrow. Edited by F. Hindes Groome. _Two Volumes._
+
+THE ROMANY RYE. By George Borrow. Edited by John Sampson.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM THE EARLY POEMS OF ROBERT BROWNING. Edited by W. Hall
+Griffin, M.A.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM THE ANTI-JACOBIN; with George Canning's additional
+Poems. Edited by Lloyd Sanders.
+
+THE ESSAYS OF ABRAHAM COWLEY. Edited by H.C. Minchin.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM GEORGE CRABBE, Edited by A.C. Deane.
+
+JOHN HALIFAX GENTLEMAN. By Mrs. Craik. Edited by Annie Matheson. _Two
+Volumes._
+
+THE ENGLISH POEMS OF RICHARD CRAWSHAW. Edited by Edward Hutton.
+
+THE INFERNO OF DANTE. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget
+Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt.
+
+THE PURGATORIO OF DANTE. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget
+Toynbee, M.A. D.Litt.
+
+THE PARADISO OF DANTE. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget
+Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM THE POEMS OF GEORGE DARLEY. Edited by R.A.
+Streatfeild.
+
+A LITTLE BOOK OF LIGHT VERSE. Edited by A.C. Deane.
+
+MARRIAGE. By Susan Ferrier. Edited by Miss Goodrich Freer and Lord
+Iddesleigh. _Two Volumes._
+
+THE INHERITANCE. By Susan Ferrier. Edited by Miss Goodrich Freer and
+Lord Iddesleigh. _Two Volumes._
+
+CRANFORD. By Mrs. Gaskell. Edited by E.V. Lucas. _Second Edition._
+
+THE SCARLET LETTER. By Nathaniel Hawthorne. Edited by Percy Dearmer.
+
+A LITTLE BOOK OF SCOTTISH VERSE. Edited by T.F. Henderson.
+
+POEMS. By John Keats. With an Introduction by L. Binyon and Notes by
+J. MASEFIELD.
+
+EOTHEN. By A.W. Kinglake. With an Introduction and Notes. _Second
+Edition._
+
+ELIA, AND THE LAST ESSAYS OF ELIA. By Charles Lamb. Edited by E.V.
+Lucas.
+
+LONDON LYRICS. By F. Locker. Edited by A.D. Godley, M.A. A reprint of
+the First Edition.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM LONGFELLOW. Edited by L.M. Faithfull.
+
+THE POEMS OF ANDREW MARVELL. Edited by E. Wright.
+
+THE MINOR POEMS OF JOHN MILTON. Edited by H.C. BEECHING, M.A.
+
+MANSIE WAUCH. By D.M. Moir. Edited by T.F. Henderson.
+
+A LITTLE BOOK OF ENGLISH SONNETS. Edited by J.B.B. Nichols.
+
+THE MAXIMS OF LA ROCHEFOUCAULD. Translated by Dean Stanhope. Edited by
+G.H. Powell.
+
+REJECTED ADDRESSES. By Horace and James Smith. Edited by A.D. Godley,
+M.A.
+
+A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY. By Laurence Sterne. Edited by H.W. Paul.
+
+THE EARLY POEMS OF ALFRED, LORD TENNYSON. Edited by J. Churton
+Collins, M.A.
+
+IN MEMORIAM. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by H.C. Beeching, M.A.
+
+THE PRINCESS. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by Elizabeth
+Wordsworth.
+
+MAUD. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by Elizabeth Wordsworth.
+
+VANITY FAIR. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn. _Three Volumes._
+
+PENDENNIS. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn. _Three Volumes._
+
+ESMOND. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn.
+
+CHRISTMAS BOOKS. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn.
+
+THE POEMS OF HENRY VAUGHAN. Edited by Edward Hutton.
+
+THE COMPLEAT ANGLER. By Izaak Walton. Edited by J. Buchan.
+
+A LITTLE BOOK OF LIFE AND DEATH. Edited by Mrs. Alfred Waterhouse.
+_Sixth Edition._
+
+SELECTIONS FROM WORDSWORTH. Edited by Nowell C. Smith.
+
+LYRICAL BALLADS. By W. Wordsworth and S.T. Coleridge. Edited by George
+Sampson.
+
+
+Miniature Library, Methuen's
+
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+EUPHRANOR: A Dialogue on Youth. By Edward FitzGerald. From the edition
+published by W. Pickering in 1851. _Demy 32mo. Leather, 2s. net._
+
+POLONIUS: or Wise Saws and Modern Instances. By Edward FitzGerald.
+From the edition published by W. Pickering in 1852. _Demy 32mo.
+Leather, 2s. net._
+
+THE RUBAIYAT OF OMAR KHAYYAM. By Edward FitzGerald. From the 1st
+edition of 1859, _Third Edition. Leather, 2s. net._
+
+THE LIFE OF EDWARD, LORD HERBERT OF CHERBURY. Written by himself. From
+the edition printed at Strawberry Hill in the year 1764. _Medium 32mo.
+Leather, 2s. net._
+
+THE VISIONS OF DOM FRANCISCO QUEVEDO VILLEGAS, Knight of the Order of
+St. James Made English by R.L. From the edition printed for H.
+Herringman 1668. _Leather. 2s. net._
+
+POEMS. By Dora Greenwell. From the edition of 1848. _Leather, 2s.
+net._
+
+
+The Oxford Biographies
+
+_Fcap. 8vo. Each volume, cloth, 2s. 6d. net; leather, 3s. 6d. net._
+
+These books are written by scholars of repute, who combine knowledge
+and literary skill with the power of popular presentation. They are
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+
+DANTE ALIGHIERI. By Paget Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt. With 12
+Illustrations. _Second Edition._
+
+SAVONAROLA. By E.L.S. Horsburgh, M.A. With 12 Illustrations. _Second
+Edition._
+
+JOHN HOWARD. By E.C.S. Gibson, D.D., Vicar of Leeds. With 12
+Illustrations.
+
+TENNYSON. By A.C. BENSON, M.A. With 9 Illustrations.
+
+WALTER RALEIGH. By I.A. Taylor. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+ERASMUS. By E.F.H. Capey. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+THE YOUNG PRETENDER. By C.S. Terry. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+ROBERT BURNS. By T.F. Henderson. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+CHATHAM. By A.S. M'Dowall. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+ST. FRANCIS OF ASSISI. By Anna M. Stoddart. With 16 Illustrations.
+
+CANNING. By W.A. Phillips. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+BEACONSFIELD. By Waller Sichel. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+GOETHE. By H.G. Atkins. With 12 Illustrations.
+
+
+School Examination Series
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+
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+
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+KEY _(Fourth Edition)_ issued as above. _6s. net_.
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+Social Questions of To-day
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+
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+
+TRADE UNIONISM--NEW AND OLD. By G. Howell. _Third Edition._
+
+THE CO-OPERATIVE MOVEMENT TO-DAY. By G.J. Holyoake. _Fourth Edition._
+
+MUTUAL THRIFT, by J. Frome Wilkinson, M.A.
+
+PROBLEMS OF POVERTY. By J.A. Hobson, M.A. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE COMMERCE OF NATIONS. By C.F. Bastable, M.A. _Third Edition._
+
+THE ALIEN INVASION. By W.H. Wilkins, B.A.
+
+THE RURAL EXODUS. By P. Anderson Graham.
+
+LAND NATIONALIZATION. By Harold Cox, B.A.
+
+A SHORTER WORKING DAY. By H. de Gibbins and R.A. Hatfield.
+
+BACK TO THE LAND. An Inquiry into Rural Depopulation. By H.E. Moore.
+
+TRUSTS, POOLS, AND CORNERS. By J. Stephen Jeans.
+
+THE FACTORY SYSTEM. By R.W. Cooke-Taylor.
+
+THE STATE AND ITS CHILDREN. By Gertrude Tuckwell.
+
+WOMEN'S WORK. By Lady Dilke, Miss Bulley, and Miss Whitley.
+
+SOCIALISM AND MODERN THOUGHT. By M. Kauffmann.
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+THE PROBLEM OF THE UNEMPLOYED. By J.A. Hobson, M.A.
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+LIFE IN WEST LONDON. By Arthur Sherwell, M.A. _Third Edition._
+
+RAILWAY NATIONALIZATION. By Clement Edwards.
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+WORKHOUSES AND PAUPERISM. By Louisa Twining.
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+UNIVERSITY AND SOCIAL SETTLEMENTS. By W. Reason, M.A.
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+Technology, Textbooks of
+
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+
+TECHNICAL ARITHMETIC AND GEOMETRY. By C.T. Millis, M.I.M.E. _Crown
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+AN INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF TEXTILE DESIGN. By Aldred F. Barker.
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+
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+Theology, Handbooks of
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+Edited by R.L. OTTLEY, D.D., Professor of Pastoral Theology at Oxford,
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+
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+
+THE XXXIX. ARTICLES OF THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND. Edited by E.C.S. Gibbon,
+D.D. _Third and Cheaper Edition in one Volume. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d._
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+AN INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF RELIGION. By F.B. Jevons, M.A.,
+Litt.D. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE DOCTRINE OF THE INCARNATION. By R.L. Ottley, D.D. _Second and
+Cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d._
+
+AN INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF THE CREEDS. By A.E. Burn, B.D. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE PHILOSOPHY OF RELIGION IN ENGLAND AND AMERICA. By Alfred Caldecott,
+D.D. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+A HISTORY OF EARLY CHRISTIAN DOCTRINE. By J.F. Bethune Baker, M.A. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+
+Methuen's Standard Library
+
+EDITED BY SIDNEY LEE. _In Sixpenny Volumes._
+
+MESSRS. METHUEN are preparing a new series of reprints containing both
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+also some rarer books, of which no satisfactory edition at a moderate
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+of every reader. All the great masters of Poetry, Drama, Fiction,
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+to each book.
+
+The characteristics of METHUEN'S UNIVERSAL LIBRARY are five:--
+
+1. SOUNDNESS OF TEXT. A pure and unabridged text is the primary object
+of the series, and the books will be carefully reprinted under the
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+
+2. COMPLETENESS. Where it seems advisable, the complete works of such
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+
+3. CHEAPNESS. The books will be well printed on good paper at a price
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+
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+
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+
+The volumes may also be obtained in cloth at One Shilling net, or in the
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+
+The Library will be issued at regular intervals after the publication of
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+composing the complete works of an author will be issued at convenient
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+
+These are the early Books, all of which are in the Press.
+
+THE WORKS OF WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE. In 10 volumes.
+
+VOL. I.--The Tempest; The Two Gentlemen of Verona; The Merry Wives of
+Windsor; Measure for Measure; The Comedy of Errors.
+
+VOL. II.--Much Ado About Nothing; Love's Labour's Lost; A Midsummer
+Nights' Dream; The Merchant of Venice; As You Like It.
+
+VOL. III.--The Taming of the Shrew; All's Well that Ends Well; Twelfth
+Night; The Winter's Tale.
+
+THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. By John Bunyan.
+
+THE NOVELS OF JANE AUSTEN. In 5 volumes. VOL. I.--Sense and
+Sensibility.
+
+THE ENGLISH WORKS OF FRANCIS BACON, LORD VERULAM. Vol. I.--Essays and
+Counsels and the New Atlantis.
+
+THE POEMS AND PLAYS OF OLIVER GOLDSMITH.
+
+ON THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. By Thomas � Kempis.
+
+THE WORKS OF BEN JOHNSON. In about 12 volumes. VOL. I.--The Case is
+Altered; Every Man in His Humour; Every Man out of His Humour.
+
+THE PROSE WORKS OF JOHN MILTON.
+  VOL. I.--Eikonoklastes and The Tenure of Kings and Magistrates.
+
+SELECT WORKS OF EDMUND BURKE.
+  Vol. I.--Reflections on the French Revolution
+  Vol. II.--Speeches on America.
+
+THE WORKS OF HENRY FIELDING.
+  Vol. I.--Tom Jones. (Double Volume.)
+  Vol. II.--Amelia. (Double Volume.)
+
+THE POEMS OF THOMAS CHATTERTON. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Miscellaneous Poems.
+  Vol. II.--The Rowley Poems.
+
+THE MEDITATIONS OF MARCUS AURELIUS. Translated by R. Graves.
+
+THE HISTORY OF THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. By Edward
+Gibbon. In 7 volumes. The Notes have been revised by J.B. Bury, Litt.D.
+
+THE PLAYS OF CHRISTOPHER MARLOWE.
+  Vol. I.--Tamburlane the Great; The Tragical History of Doctor Faustus.
+  Vol. II.--The Jew of Malta: Edward the Second; The Massacre at Paris;
+  The Tragedy of Dido.
+
+THE NATURAL HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF SELBORNE. By Gilbert White.
+
+THE COMPLETE ANGLER. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--By Izaak Walton.
+  Vol. II.--Part 2, by Cotton, and Part 3 by Venables.
+
+THE POEMS OF PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY. In 4 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Alastor; The Daemon of the World; The Revolt of Islam, etc.
+
+THE WORKS OF SIR THOMAS BROWNE. In 6 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Religio Medici and Urn Burial.
+
+THE POEMS OF JOHN MILTON. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Paradise Lost.
+  Vol. II.--Miscellaneous Poems and Paradise Regained.
+
+HUMPHREY CLINKER. By T.G. Smollett.
+
+SELECT WORKS OF SIR THOMAS MORE.
+  Vol. I.--Utopia and Poems.
+
+THE ANALOGY OF RELIGION, NATURAL AND REVEALED. By Joseph Butler, D.D.
+
+ON HUMAN UNDERSTANDING. By John Locke. In 3 volumes.
+
+THE POEMS OF JOHN KEATS. In 2 volumes.
+
+THE DIVINE COMEDY OF DANTE. The Italian Text edited by Paget Toynbee,
+M.A., D.Litt. (A Double Volume.)
+
+
+Westminster Commentaries, The
+
+General Editor, WALTER LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College,
+
+Dean Ireland's Professor of Exegesis in the University of Oxford.
+
+The object of each commentary is primarily exegetical, to interpret the
+author's meaning to the present generation. The editors will not deal,
+except very subordinately, with questions of textual criticism or
+philology; but, taking the English text in the Revised Version as their
+basis, they will try to combine a hearty acceptance of critical
+principles with loyalty to the Catholic Faith.
+
+THE BOOK OF GENESIS. Edited with Introduction and Notes by S.R. Driver,
+D.D. _Fourth Edition Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE BOOK OF JOB. Edited by E.C.S. Gibson. D.D. _Second Edition. Demy
+8vo. 6s._
+
+THE ACTS OF THE APOSTLES. Edited by R.B. Rackham, M.A. _Demy 8vo. Second
+and Cheaper Edition. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE FIRST EPISTLE OF PAUL THE APOSTLE TO THE CORINTHIANS. Edited by H.L.
+Goudge, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+THE EPISTLE OF ST. JAMES. Edited with Introduction and Notes by R.J.
+Knowling, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+
+
+
+PART II.--FICTION
+
+Marie Corelli's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS. _Twenty-Fifth Edition._
+
+VENDETTA. _Twenty-First Edition._
+
+THELMA. _Thirty-Second Edition._
+
+ARDATH: THE STORY OF A DEAD SELF. _Fifteenth Edition._
+
+THE SOUL OF LILITH. _Twelfth Edition._
+
+WORMWOOD. _Fourteenth Edition._
+
+BARABBAS: A DREAM OF THE WORLD'S TRAGEDY. _Fortieth Edition._
+'The tender reverence of the treatment and the imaginative beauty of the
+writing have reconciled us to the daring of the conception. This "Dream
+of the World's Tragedy" is a lofty and not inadequate paraphrase of the
+supreme climax of the inspired narrative.'--_Dublin Review._
+
+THE SORROWS OF SATAN. _Forty-Eighth Edition._
+'A very powerful piece of work.... The conception is magnificent, and is
+likely to win an abiding place within the memory of man.... The author
+has immense command of language, and a limitless audacity.... This
+interesting and remarkable romance will live long after much of the
+ephemeral literature of the day is forgotten.... A literary phenomenon
+... novel, and even sublime.'--W.T. STEAD in the _Review of Reviews._
+
+THE MASTER CHRISTIAN. _[165th Thousand._
+'It cannot be denied that "The Master Christian" is a powerful book;
+that it is one likely to raise uncomfortable questions in all but the
+most self-satisfied readers, and that it strikes at the root of the
+failure of the Churches--the decay of faith--in a manner which shows the
+inevitable disaster heaping up ... The good Cardinal Bonpr� is a
+beautiful figure, fit to stand beside the good Bishop in "Les
+Mis�rables." It is a book with a serious purpose expressed with absolute
+unconventionality and passion ... And this is to say it is a book worth
+reading.'--_Examiner._
+
+TEMPORAL POWER: A STUDY IN SUPREMACY. _[150th Thousand._
+'It is impossible to read such a work as "Temporal Power" without
+becoming convinced that the story is intended to convey certain
+criticisms on the ways of the world and certain suggestions for the
+betterment of humanity.... If the chief intention of the book was to
+hold the mirror up to shams, injustice, dishonesty, cruelty, and neglect
+of conscience, nothing but praise can be given to that
+intention.'--_Morning Post._
+
+GOD'S GOOD MAN: A SIMPLE LOVE STORY. _Sixth Edition_,
+
+
+Anthony Hope's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE GOD IN THE CAR. _Tenth Edition._
+'A very remarkable book, deserving of critical analysis impossible
+within our limit; brilliant, but not superficial; well considered, but
+not elaborated; constructed with the proverbial art that conceals, but
+yet allows itself to be enjoyed by readers to whom fine literary method
+is a keen pleasure.--_The World._
+
+A CHANGE OF AIR, _Sixth Edition._
+'A graceful, vivacious comedy, true to human nature. The characters are
+traced with a masterly hand.'--_Times._
+
+A MAN OF MARK. _Fifth Edition._
+'Of all Mr. Hope's books, "A Man of Mark" is the one which best compares
+with "The Prisoner of Zenda." '--_National Observer._
+
+THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO. _Fifth Edition._
+'It is a perfectly enchanting story of love and chivalry, and pure
+romance. The Count is the most constant, desperate, and modest and
+tender of lovers, a peerless gentleman, an intrepid fighter, a faithful
+friend, and a magnanimous foe.'--_Guardian._
+
+PHROSO. Illustrated by H.R. MILLAR. _Sixth Edition._
+'The tale is thoroughly fresh, quick with vitality, stirring the
+blood.'--_St. James's Gazette._
+
+SIMON DALE. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition._
+'There is searching analysis of human nature, with a most ingeniously
+constructed plot. Mr. Hope has drawn the contrasts of his women with
+marvellous subtlety and delicacy.'--_Times_.
+
+THE KING'S MIRROR. _Fourth Edition._
+'In elegance, delicacy, and tact it ranks with the best of his novels,
+while in the wide range of its portraiture and the subtlety of its
+analysis it surpasses all his earlier ventures.'--_Spectator._
+
+QUISANTE. _Fourth Edition._
+'The book is notable for a very high literary quality, and an impress of
+power and mastery on every page.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.
+
+
+W.W. Jacobs' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. each._
+
+MANY CARGOES. _Twenty-Seventh Edition._
+
+SEA URCHINS. _Eleventh Edition._
+
+A MASTER OF CRAFT. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition._
+'Can be unreservedly recommended to all who have not lost their appetite
+for wholesome laughter.'--_Spectator._
+'The best humorous book published for many a day.'--_Black and White._
+
+LIGHT FREIGHTS. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+'His wit and humour are perfectly irresistible. Mr. Jacobs writes of
+skippers, and mates, and seamen, and his crew are the jolliest lot that
+ever sailed.'--_Daily News._
+'Laughter in every page.'--_Daily Mail_.
+
+
+Lucas Malet's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+COLONEL ENDERBY' WIFE. _Third Edition._
+
+A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION. _New Edition._
+
+LITTLE PETER. _Second Edition. 3s. 6d._
+
+THE WAGES OF SIN. _Fourteenth Edition._
+
+THE CARISSIMA. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE GATELESS BARRIER. _Fourth Edition._
+'In "The Gateless Barrier" it is at once evident that, whilst Lucas
+Malet has preserved her birthright of originality, the artistry, the
+actual writing, is above even the high level of the books that were born
+before.'--_Westminster Gazette._
+
+THE HISTORY OF SIR RICHARD CALMADY. _Seventh Edition._ A Limited
+Edition in Two Volumes. _Crown 8vo. 12s._
+'A picture finely and amply conceived. In the strength and insight in
+which the story has been conceived, in the wealth of fancy and
+reflection bestowed upon its execution, and in the moving sincerity of
+its pathos throughout, "Sir Richard Calmady" must rank as the great
+novel of a great writer.'--_Literature._
+'The ripest fruit of Lucas Malet's genius. A picture of maternal love
+by turns tender and terrible.'--_Spectator._
+'A remarkably fine book, with a noble motive and a sound
+conclusion.'--_Pilot_.
+
+
+Gilbert Parker's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+PIERRE AND HIS PEOPLE. _Fifth Edition._
+'Stories happily conceived and finely executed. There is strength and
+genius in Mr. Parker's style.'--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+MRS. FALCHION. _Fifth Edition._
+'A splendid study of character.'--_Athen�um._
+
+THE TRANSLATION OF A SAVAGE. _Second Edition._
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD. Illustrated. _Eighth Edition._
+'A rousing and dramatic tale. A book like this is a joy
+inexpressible.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC: The Story of a Lost Napoleon. _Fifth
+Edition._
+'Here we find romance--real, breathing, living romance. The character of
+Valmond is drawn unerringly.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+AN ADVENTURER OF THE NORTH: The Last Adventures of 'Pretty Pierre.'
+_Third Edition._
+'The present book is full of fine and moving stories of the great
+North.'--_Glasgow Herald._
+
+THE SEATS OF THE MIGHTY. Illustrated. _Thirteenth Edition._
+'Mr. Parker has produced a really fine historical novel.'--_Athen�um._
+'A great book.'--_Black and White._
+
+THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG: a Romance of Two Kingdoms. Illustrated.
+_Fourth Edition._
+'Nothing more vigorous or more human has come from Mr. Gilbert Parker
+than this novel.'--_Literature._
+
+THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. _Second Edition. 3s. 6d._
+'Unforced pathos, and a deeper knowledge of human nature than he has
+displayed before.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+
+Arthur Morrison's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+TALES OF MEAN STREETS. _Sixth Edition._
+'A great book. The author's method is amazingly effective, and produces
+a thrilling sense of reality. The writer lays upon us a master hand. The
+book is simply appalling and irresistible in its interest. It is
+humorous also; without humour it would not make the mark it is certain
+to make.'--_World._
+
+A CHILD OF THE JAGO. _Fourth Edition._
+'The book is a masterpiece.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+TO LONDON TOWN. _Second Edition._
+'This is the new Mr. Arthur Morrison, gracious and tender, sympathetic
+and human.'--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+CUNNING MURRELL.
+'Admirable ... Delightful humorous relief ... a most artistic and
+satisfactory achievement.'--_Spectator._
+
+THE HOLE IN THE WALL. _Third Edition._
+'A masterpiece of artistic realism. It has a finality of touch that only
+a master may command.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+'An absolute masterpiece, which any novelist might be proud to
+claim.'--_Graphic_.
+'"The Hole in the Wall" is a masterly piece of work. His characters
+are drawn with amazing skill. Extraordinary power.'--_Daily
+Telegraph._
+
+
+Eden Phillpotts' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+LYING PROPHETS.
+
+CHILDREN OF THE MIST. _Fifth Edition._
+
+THE HUMAN BOY. With a Frontispiece. _Fourth Edition._
+'Mr. Phillpotts knows exactly what school-boys do, and can lay bare
+their inmost thoughts; likewise he shows an all-pervading sense of
+humour.'--_Academy._
+
+SONS OF THE MORNING. _Second Edition._
+'A book of strange power and fascination.'--_Morning Post._
+
+THE STRIKING HOURS. _Second Edition._
+'Tragedy and comedy, pathos and humour, are blended to a nicety in this
+volume.'--_World._
+'The whole book is redolent of a fresher and ampler air than breathes
+in the circumscribed life of great towns.'--_Spectator._
+
+THE RIVER. _Third Edition._
+'"The River" places Mr. Phillpotts in the front rank of living
+novelists.'--_Punch._
+'Since "Lorna Doone" we have had nothing so picturesque as this new
+romance.'--_Birmingham Gazette._
+'Mr. Phillpotts's new book is a masterpiece which brings him
+indisputably into the front rank of English novelists.'--_Pall Mall
+Gazette._
+'This great romance of the River Dart. The finest book Mr. Eden
+Phillpotts has written.'--_Morning Post._
+
+THE AMERICAN PRISONER. _Third Edition._
+
+THE SECRET WOMAN. _Fourth Edition._
+
+
+S. Baring-Gould's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+ARMINELL. _Fifth Edition._
+
+URITH. _Fifth Edition._
+
+IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA. _Seventh Edition._
+
+CHEAP JACK ZITA. _Fourth Edition._
+
+MARGERY OF QUETHER. _Third Edition._
+
+THE QUEEN OF LOVE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+JACQUETTA. _Third Edition._
+
+KITTY ALONE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+NO�MI. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE BROOM-SQUIRE. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+
+DARTMOOR IDYLLS.
+
+THE PENNYCOMEQUICKS. _Third Edition._
+
+GUAVAS THE TINNER. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+BLADYS. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+DOMITIA. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+PABO THE PRIEST.
+
+WINIFRED. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+THE FROBISHERS.
+
+ROYAL GEORGIE. Illustrated.
+
+MISS QUILLET. Illustrated.
+
+LITTLE TU'PENNY. _A New Edition. 6d._
+
+CHRIS OF ALL SORTS.
+
+IN DEWISLAND. _Second Edition._
+
+
+Robert Barr's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS. _Third Edition._
+'A book which has abundantly satisfied us by its capital
+humour.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+THE MUTABLE MANY. _Second Edition._
+'There is much insight in it, and much excellent humour.'--_Daily
+Chronicle._
+
+THE VICTORS.
+
+THE COUNTESS TEKLA. _Third Edition._
+'Of these medi�val romances, which are now gaining ground, "The Countess
+Tekla" is the very best we have seen.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+THE LADY ELECTRA. _Second Edition._
+
+THE TEMPESTUOUS PETTICOAT. _Second Edition._
+
+
+E. Maria Albanesi's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+SUSANNAH AND ONE OTHER. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE BLUNDER OF AN INNOCENT. _Second Edition._
+
+CAPRICIOUS CAROLINE. _Second Edition._
+
+LOVE AND LOUISA. _Second Edition._
+
+PETER, A PARASITE.
+
+
+B.M. Croker's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+ANGEL. _Fourth Edition._
+
+PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. _Sixth Edit._
+
+THE OLD CANTONMENT.
+
+A STATE SECRET. _Third Edition._
+
+JOHANNA. _Second Edition._
+
+THE HAPPY VALLEY. _Second Edition._
+
+
+J.H. Findlater's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE GREEN GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+
+Mary Findlater's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+A NARROW WAY. _Third Edition._
+
+OVER THE HILLS.
+
+THE ROSE OF JOY. _Second Edition._
+
+
+Robert Hichens' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE PROPHET OF BERKELEY SQUARE. _Second Edition_
+
+TONGUES OF CONSCIENCE. _Second Edition._
+
+FELIX. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE WOMAN WITH THE FAN. _Fifth Edition._
+
+BYEWAYS. _3s. 6d._
+
+THE GARDEN OF ALLAH _Seventh Edition._
+
+Henry James's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE SOFT SIDE. _Second Edition._
+
+THE BETTER SORT.
+
+THE AMBASSADORS. _Second Edition._
+
+THE GOLDEN BOWL.
+
+
+Mary E. Mann's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+OLIVIA'S SUMMER. _Second Edition._
+
+A LOST ESTATE. _A New Edition._
+
+THE PARISH OF HILBY. _A New Edition._
+
+*THE PARISH NURSE.
+
+GRAN'MA'S JANE.
+
+MRS. PETER HOWARD.
+
+A WINTER'S TALE. _A New Edition._
+
+ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS. _A New Edition._
+
+THERE WAS ONCE A PRINCE. Illustrated. _3s. 6d._
+
+WHEN ARNOLD COMES HOME. Illustrated. _3s. 6d._
+
+
+W. Pett Ridge's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+LOST PROPERTY. _Second Edition._
+
+ERB. _Second Edition._
+
+A SON OF THE STATE. _3s. 6d._
+
+A BREAKER OF LAWS. _3s. 6d._
+
+MRS. GALER'S BUSINESS.
+
+SECRETARY TO BAYNE, M.P. _3s. 6d._
+
+
+Adeline Sergeant's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE MASTER OF BEECHWOOD.
+
+BARBARA'S MONEY. _Second Edition._
+
+ANTHEA'S WAY.
+
+THE YELLOW DIAMOND. _Second Edition._
+
+UNDER SUSPICION.
+
+THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME.
+
+THE ENTHUSIAST.
+
+ACCUSED AND ACCUSER. _Second Edition._
+
+THE PROGRESS OF RACHEL.
+
+THE MYSTERY OF THE MOAT.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Albanesi (E. Maria). See page 35.
+
+Anstey (F.), Author of 'Vice Versa.' A BAYARD FROM BENGAL. Illustrated
+by BERNARD PARTRIDGE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Bacheller (Irving), Author of 'Eben Holden.' DARREL OF THE BLESSED ISLES
+_Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Bagot (Richard). A ROMAN MYSTERY. _Third Edition. Crown 8 vo. 6s._
+
+Balfour (Andrew). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Baring-Gould (S.). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Barlow (Jane). THE LAND OF THE SHAMROCK. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also
+Shilling Novels.
+
+Barr (Robert). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Begbie (Harold). THE ADVENTURES OF SIR JOHN SPARROW. _Crown. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Belloc (Hilaire). EMMANUEL BURDEN, MERCHANT, with 36 illustrations by
+G.K. CHESTERTON. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Benson (E.F.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Benson (Margaret). SUBJECT TO VANITY. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Besant (Sir Walter). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Bowles (C. Stewart). A STRETCH OFF THE LAND. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Bullock (Shan. F.). THE SQUIREEN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ THE RED LEAGUERS.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Burton (J. Bloundelle). THE YEAR ONE: A Page of the French Revolution.
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE FATE OF VALSEC. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A BRANDED NAME. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Capes (Bernard), Author of 'The Lake of Wine.' THE EXTRAORDINARY
+CONFESSIONS OF DIANA PLEASE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Chesney (Weatherby). THE BAPTST RING. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE TRAGEDY OF THE GREAT EMERALD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE MYSTERY OF A BUNGALOW. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Clifford (Hugh). A FREE LANCE OF TO-DAY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Clifford (Mrs. W.K.). See also Shilling Novels and Books for Boys and
+Girls.
+
+Cobb (Thomas). A CHANGE OF FACE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Cobban (J. Maclaren). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Corelli (Marie). See page 32.
+
+Cotes (Mrs. Everard). See Sara Jeannette Duncan.
+
+Cotterell (Constance). THE VIRGIN AND THE SCALES. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Crane (Stephen) and Barr (Robert). THE O'RUDDY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Crockett (S.R.). Author of 'The Raiders,' etc. LOCHINVAR. Illustrated.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE STANDARD BEARER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Croker (B.M.). See page 35.
+
+Dawson (A.J.). DANIEL WHYTE. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Doyle (A. Conan), Author of 'Sherlock Holmes,' 'The White Company,'
+etc. ROUND THE RED LAMP. _Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Duncan (Sara Jeannette) (Mrs. Everard Cotes). THOSE DELIGHTFUL
+AMERICANS. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE POOL IN THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A VOYAGE OF CONSOLATION. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Findlater (J.H.). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Findlater (Mary). See page 35.
+
+Fitzpatrick (K.) THE WEANS AT ROWALLAN. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fitzstephen (Gerald). MORE KIN THAN KIND. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fletcher (J.S.). LUCIAN THE DREAMER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+DAVID MARCH. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Francis (M.E.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Fraser (Mrs. Hugh). Author of 'The Stolen Emperor.' THE SLAKING OF THE
+SWORD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gallon (Tom), Author of 'Kiddy.' RICKERBY'S FOLLY. _Crown 8 vo. 6s._
+
+Gerard (Dorothea), Author of 'Lady Baby.' THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+HOLY MATRIMONY. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+MADE OF MONEY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE BRIDGE OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gerard (Emily). THE HERONS' TOWER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gissing (George), Author of 'Demos,' 'In the Year of Jubilee,' etc.
+THE TOWN TRAVELLER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo 6s._
+THE CROWN OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Glanville (Ernest). THE INCA'S TREASURE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Gleig (Charles). BUNTER'S CRUISE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Goss (C.F.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Herbertson (Agnes G.). PATIENCE DEAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hichens (Robert). See page 35.
+
+Hobbes (John Oliver), Author of 'Robert Orange.' THE SERIOUS WOOING.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hope (Anthony). See page 32.
+
+Hough (Emerson). THE MISSISSIPPI BUBBLE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hyne (C.J. Cutcliffe), Author of 'Captain Kettle.' MR. HORROCKS,
+PURSER. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Jacobs (W.W.). See page 33.
+
+James (Henry). See page 36.
+
+Janson (Gustaf). ABRAHAM'S SACRIFICE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Keays (H.A. Mitchell). HE THAT EATHETH BREAD WITH ME. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Lawless (Hon. Emily). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Lawson (Harry), Author of 'When the Billy Boils.' CHILDREN OF THE
+BUSH. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Levett-Yeats (S.). ORRAIN. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Linden (Annie). A WOMAN OF SENTIMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Linton (E. Lynn). THE TRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON, Christian and
+Communist. _Twelfth Edition. Medium 8vo. 6d._
+
+Long (J. Luther), Co-Author of 'The Darling of the Gods.' MADAME
+BUTTERFLY. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+SIXTY JANE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Lyall (Edna). DERRICK VAUGHAN, NOVELIST. _42nd Thousand. Cr. 8vo. 3s
+6d._
+
+M'Carthy (Justin H.). Author of 'If I were King.' THE LADY OF LOYALTY
+HOUSE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE DRYAD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mackie (Pauline Bradford). THE VOICE IN THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Macnaughtan (S.). THE FORTUNE OF CHRISTINA MACNAB. _Third Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Malet (Lucas). See page 33.
+
+Mann (Mrs. M.E.). See page 36.
+
+Marriott (Charles), Author of 'The Column.' GENEVRA. _Second Edition.
+Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Marsh (Richard). THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+A METAMORPHOSIS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+GARNERED. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A DUEL. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mason (A.E.W), Author of 'The Courtship of Morrice Buckler,'
+'Miranda of the Balcony,' etc. CLEMENTINA. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo.
+Second Edition. 6s._
+
+Mathers (Helen), Author of 'Comin' thro' the Rye.' HONEY. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Meade (L.T.). DRIFT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ RESURGAM. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Meredith (Ellis). HEART OF MY HEART. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+'Miss Molly' (The Author of). THE GREAT RECONCILER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mitford (Bertram). THE SIGN OF THE SPIDER. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+IN THE WHIRL OF THE RISING. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE RED DERELICT. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Montresor (F.F.), Author of 'Into the Highways and Hedges.' THE
+ALIEN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Morrison (Arthur). See page 34.
+
+Nesbit (E.). (Mrs. E. Bland). THE RED HOUSE. Illustrated. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE LITERARY SENSE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Norris (W.E.). THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY. Illustrated. _Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE EMBARRASSING ORPHAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+NIGEL'S VOCATION. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+LORD LEONARD THE LUCKLESS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+BARHAM OF BELTANA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Ollivant (Alfred). OWD BOB, THE GREY DOG OF KENMUIR. _Eighth Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oppenheim (E. Phillips). MASTER OF MEN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oxenham (John), Author of 'Barbe of Grand Bayou.' A WEAVER OF WEBS.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE GATE OF THE DESERT. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pain (Barry). THREE FANTASIES. _Crown 8vo. 1s._ LINDLEY KAYS. _Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Parker (Gilbert). See page 33.
+
+Pemberton (Max). THE FOOTSTEPS OF A THRONE. Illustrated. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+I CROWN THEE KING. With Illustrations by Frank Dadd and A. Forrestier.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Penny (Mrs. F.E.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). See page 34, and Shilling Novels.
+
+Pickthall (Marmaduke). SAID THE FISHERMAN. _Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+*BRENDLE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+*Pryce (Richard). WINIFRED MOUNT, _A New Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+'Q,' Author of 'Dead Man's Rock.' THE WHITE WOLF. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Queux (W. le). THE HUNCHBACK OF WESTMINSTER. _Third Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+THE CLOSED BOOK. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW. Illustrated. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rhys (Grace). THE WOOING OF SHEILA. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE PRINCE OF LISNOVER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rhys (Grace) and Another. THE DIVERTED VILLAGE. With Illustrations by
+DOROTHY GWYN JEFFREYS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Ridge (W. Pett). See page 36.
+
+Ritchie (Mrs. David G.). THE TRUTHFUL LIAR. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Roberts (C.G.D.). THE HEART OF THE ANCIENT WOOD. _Crown 8vo 3s. 6d._
+
+*Robertson (Francee Forbes). THE TAMING OF THE BRUTE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Russell (W. Clark). MY DANISH SWEETHEART. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+ABANDONED. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+HIS ISLAND PRINCESS. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sergeant (Adeline). See page 36.
+
+Shannon (W.F.). THE MESS DECK. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+JIM TWELVES. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Sonnichsen (Albert). DEEP SEA VAGABONDS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Stringer (Arthur). THE SILVER POPPY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sutherland (Duchess of). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Swan (Annie). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Tanqueray (Mrs. B.M.). THE ROYAL QUAKER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Thompson (Vance). SPINNERS OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Waineman (Paul). BY A FINNISH LAKE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE SONG OF THE FOREST. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Watson (H.B.Marriott). ALARUMS AND EXCURSIONS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+CAPTAIN FORTUNE. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Wells (H.G.) THE SEA LADY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Weyman (Stanley), Author of 'A Gentleman of France.' UNDER THE RED
+ROBE With Illustrations by R.C. WOODVILLE. _Eighteenth Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+White (Stewart E.). Author of 'The Blazed Trail.' CONJUROR'S HOUSE.
+A Romance of the Free Trail. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+White (Percy). THE SYSTEM. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Williamson (Mrs. C.N.), Author of 'The Barnstormers.' PAPA. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE ADVENTURE OF PRINCESS SYLVIA. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE WOMAN WHO DARED. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE SEA COULD TELL. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE CASTLE OF THE SHADOWS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Williamson (C.N. and A.M.). THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR: Being the
+Romance of a Motor Car. Illustrated. _Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE PRINCESS PASSES. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+
+Methuen's Shilling Novels
+
+_Cloth, 1s. net._
+
+Encouraged by the great and steady sale of their Sixpenny Novels,
+Messrs. Methuen have determined to issue a new series of fiction at a
+low price under the title of 'METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS.' These books
+are well printed and well bound in _cloth_, and the excellence of their
+quality may be gauged from the names of those authors who contribute the
+early volumes of the series.
+
+Messrs. Methuen would point out that the books are as good and as long
+as a six shilling novel, that they are bound in cloth and not in paper,
+and that their price is One Shilling _net_, They feel sure that the
+public will appreciate such good and cheap literature, and the books can
+be seen at all good booksellers. The first volumes are--
+
+Adeline Sergeant. A GREAT LADY.
+
+Richard Marsh. MARVELS AND MYSTERIES.
+
+Tom Gallon. RICKERBY'S FOLLY.
+
+H.B. Marriott-Watson. THE SKIRTS OF HAPPY CHANCE.
+
+Bullock (Shan F.). THE BARRYS. THE CHARMERS.
+
+Gissing (George). THE CROWN OF LIFE.
+
+Francis (M.E.). MISS ERIN.
+
+Sutherland (Duchess of). ONE HOUR AND THE NEXT.
+
+Burton (J. Bloundelle). ACROSS THE SALT SEAS.
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.) THE PRODIGALS.
+
+Balfour (Andrew). VENGEANCE IS MINE.
+
+Barr (Robert), Author of 'The Countess Tekla. THE VICTORS.
+
+Penny (Mrs. F.A.). A MIXED MARRIAGE.
+
+Hamilton (Lord Ernest). MARY HAMILTON.
+
+Glanville (Ernest). THE LOST REGIMENT.
+
+Benson (E.F.). Author of 'Dodo.' THE CAPSINA.
+
+Goss (C.F.). THE REDEMPTION OF DAVID CORSON.
+
+Findlater (J.H.). Author of 'The Green Graves of Balgowrie.' A DAUGHTER
+OF STRIFE.
+
+Cobban, (J.M.) THE KING OF ANDAMAN.
+
+Clifford (Mrs. W.K.). A WOMAN ALONE.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). FANCY FREE.
+
+
+Books for Boys and Girls
+
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+THE GETTING WELL OF DOROTHY. By Mrs. W.K. Clifford. Illustrated by
+Gordon-Browne. _Second Edition._
+
+THE ICELANDER'S SWORD. By S. Baring-Gould.
+
+ONLY A GUARD-ROOM DOG. By Edith E. Cuthell.
+
+THE DOCTOR OF THE JULIET. By Harry Collingwood.
+
+LITTLE PETER. By Lucas Malet. _Second Edition._
+
+MASTER ROCKAFELLAR'S VOYAGE. By W. Clark Russell.
+
+THE SECRET OF MADAME DE MONLUC. By the Author of "Mdlle. Mori."
+
+SYD BELTON: Or, the Boy who would not go to Sea. By G. Manville Fenn.
+
+THE RED GRANGE. By Mrs. Molesworth.
+
+A GIRL OF THE PEOPLE. By L.T. Meade.
+
+HEPSY GIPSY. By L.T. Meade. _2s. 6d._
+
+THE HONOURABLE MISS. By L.T. Meade.
+
+
+The Novels of Alexandre Dumas
+
+_Price 6d. Double Volume, 1s._
+
+THE THREE MUSKETEERS. With a long Introduction by Andrew Lang. Double
+volume.
+
+THE PRINCE OF THIEVES. _Second Edition._
+
+ROBIN HOOD. A Sequel to the above.
+
+THE CORSICAN BROTHERS.
+
+GEORGES.
+
+CROP-EARED JACQUOT; JANE; Etc.
+
+TWENTY YEARS AFTER. Double volume.
+
+AMAURY.
+
+THE CASTLE OF EPPSTEIN.
+
+THE SNOWBALL, AND SULTANETTA.
+
+CECILE; OR, THE WEDDING GOWN.
+
+ACT�.
+
+THE BLACK TULIP.
+
+THE VICOMTE DE BRAGELONNE.
+Part I. Louis de la Valli�re. Double Volume.
+Part II. The Man in the Iron Mask. Double Volume.
+
+THE CONVICT'S SON.
+
+THE WOLF-LEADER.
+
+NANON; OR, THE WOMEN'S WAR. Double volume.
+
+PAULINE; MURAT; AND PASCAL BRUNO.
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN PAMPHILE.
+
+FERNANDE.
+
+GABRIEL LAMBERT.
+
+THE REMINISCENCES OF ANTONY.
+
+CATHERINE BLUM.
+
+THE CHEVALIER D'HARMENTAL.
+
+SYLVANDIRE.
+
+THE FENCING MASTER.
+
+CONSCIENCE.
+
+THE REGENT'S DAUGHTER. A Sequel to Chevalier d'Harmental.
+
+
+Illustrated Edition.
+
+THE THREE MUSKETEERS. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s. 6d._
+
+THE PRINCE OF THIEVES. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams. _2s._
+
+ROBIN HOOD THE OUTLAW. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s._
+
+THE CORSICAN BROTHERS. Illustrated in Colour by A.M. M'Lellan. _1s. 6d._
+
+FERNANDE. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr.
+
+THE BLACK TULIP. Illustrated in Colour by A. Orr.
+
+GEORGES. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr. _2s._
+
+TWENTY YEARS AFTER. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams. _3s._
+
+AMAURY. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne. _2s._
+
+THE SNOWBALL, and SULTANETTA. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s._
+
+THE VICOMTE DE BRAGELONNE. Part I. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams.
+
+CROP-EARED JACQUOT; JANE; Etc. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne.
+
+THE CASTLE OF EPPSTEIN. Illustrated in Colour by Stewart Orr.
+
+ACT�. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne.
+
+CECILE; OR, THE WEDDING GOWN. Illustrated in Colour by D. Murray Smith.
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN PAMPHILE. Illustrated in Colour by Frank
+Adams.
+
+THE WOLF-LEADER. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _1s. 6d._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by 
+Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by 
+Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Land of the Black Mountain
+       The Adventures of Two Englishmen in  Montenegro
+
+Author: Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+Release Date: January 27, 2006 [EBook #17613]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by the University of Michigan Digital Library, 
+Nikola Smolenski, Sankar Viswanathan,
+and Online Distributed Proofreading Team at Distributed
+Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_1" id="image_1"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/010.jpg" width="400" height="623" alt="H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO" title="H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO" />
+<span class="caption">H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h1>THE LAND OF<br />
+THE BLACK MOUNTAIN</h1>
+
+
+
+<h4>THE ADVENTURES OF TWO ENGLISHMEN<br />
+IN MONTENEGRO</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+
+<h3>REGINALD WYON and GERALD PRANCE</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center">WITH FIFTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<p class="center" style="font-size:smaller; ">"SOME GLIMPSING AND NO PERFECT SIGHT"</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:smaller; "><span style="margin-left:65%; ">CHAUCER</span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center">NEW AND CHEAPER ISSUE</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>METHUEN &amp; CO.<br />
+36 ESSEX STREET W.C.<br />
+LONDON</h3>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>First Published March 1903<br />
+New and Cheaper Issue 1905</i></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h4>DEDICATED BY KIND PERMISSION</h4>
+
+<h5>TO</h5>
+
+<h2>H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS</h2>
+<h3>OF MONTENEGRO</h3>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p>
+
+<table summary="Contents">
+
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">Pages</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td ><span class="smcap"><a href="#INTRODUCTION">Introduction</a></span></td>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="td1" >xiii-xviii</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#THE_LAND_OF_THE_BLACK_MOUNTAIN">CHAPTER I</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#THE_LAND_OF_THE_BLACK_MOUNTAIN">Montenegro's geographical position&mdash;Character of the people&mdash;Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms&mdash;Likeness to the
+Homeric Greeks&mdash;The women&mdash;Montenegrin manners, vices,
+heroism, lack of privacy, police&mdash;Goodness of the Prince&mdash;The
+national costume&mdash;Religion&mdash;Hatred of Austria&mdash;Russia's
+friendship</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">1-14</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_II">History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, down to the
+present Prince&mdash;Fruits of the last campaign&mdash;Education&mdash;The
+military system&mdash;Legal administration&mdash;Crime&mdash;Government&mdash;The
+educated classes</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">15-30</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_III">The journey to Montenegro&mdash;Arrival in Cattaro&mdash;Beauty of the
+Bocche, and the drive to the frontier&mdash;First impressions of
+Montenegro&mdash;Njegu&#353;i&mdash;The national troubadours&mdash;Arrival in
+Cetinje</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">31-41</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">Cetinje and its sights&mdash;Prince Nicolas&mdash;The Archbishop&mdash;The
+barracks&mdash;The princes&mdash;A visit to the prison and its system&mdash;Our
+departure for Podgorica</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">42-54</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_V">The view from Bella Vista&mdash;New scenery&mdash;Promiscuous shooting&mdash;The
+market in Rijeka&mdash;The shepherds&mdash;Their flocks&mdash;Wayside
+hospitality&mdash;The plain of the Zeta&mdash;The Mora&#269;a&mdash;The
+Vizier bridge&mdash;Old war-marks&mdash;First and last impressions of
+Podgorica</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">55-64</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">Podgorica&mdash;Its central position&mdash;Our headquarters&mdash;Easter in
+Montenegro&mdash;Our experience of it&mdash;We view the town&mdash;The
+prison and its inmates&mdash;Christian and Mahometan friction&mdash;The
+modern town&mdash;The market and the armed buyers&mdash;The
+Black Earth&mdash;Easter customs&mdash;Montenegrin methods of doing
+business</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">65-78</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">Medun&mdash;Voivoda Marko&mdash;His life and business&mdash;His part in
+Montenegrin history&mdash;Our ride to Medun&mdash;His widow&mdash;We
+visit his grave&mdash;The Death Dirge&mdash;Montenegrin customs at
+death&mdash;Target practice&mdash;Our critics&mdash;The hermit of Daibabe&mdash;We
+visit Spu&#382;&mdash;A typical country inn and a meal&mdash;The
+Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare&mdash;Dioclea</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">79-94</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">Achmet Uiko tells his story&mdash;Sokol Ba&#263;o, ex-Albanian chief&mdash;Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari&mdash;Our journey thither&mdash;Our
+frustrated nap&mdash;Arrival at the chapel&mdash;The island of Vranjina&mdash;The
+priest&mdash;Fishing and fishermen&mdash;Our visitors&mdash;We return
+to Podgorica</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">95-108</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">Stephan our servant&mdash;Virpazar&mdash;The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass&mdash;Antivari and Prstan&mdash;The beauty of the bay&mdash;We are
+delayed by contrary winds&mdash;We are rowed to Dulcigno&mdash;We
+make the acquaintance of Marko Ivankovi&#263;&mdash;A story concerning
+him&mdash;We shoot together&mdash;An episode on a lake&mdash;Vaccination&mdash;The
+Turkish inhabitants</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">109-130</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_X">We ride to Scutari&mdash;The Albanian Customs officials&mdash;We suffer
+much from Turkish saddles&mdash;Arrival at Scutari, and again pass
+the Customs&mdash;"Buon arrivato"&mdash;Scutari and its religious
+troubles&mdash;The town and bazaar&mdash;A slight misunderstanding,
+Yes and No&mdash;We return to Rijeka by steamer&mdash;The beauties
+of the trip&mdash;Wrong change&mdash;The prodigal son's return, when
+the fatted calf is <i>not</i> killed</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">131-144</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">Preparations for our tour in the Brda&mdash;We start&mdash;Where it is not
+good to be giddy&mdash;A trying ride&mdash;Our inn&mdash;Nocturnal episodes&mdash;The
+journey continued&mdash;Pleasant surroundings&mdash;The Montenegrin <i>quart d'heure</i>&mdash;Arrival in Kola&#353;in&mdash;We meet the
+Governor&mdash;Visiting&mdash;The Band of Good Hope&mdash;The Crown
+Prince's birthday&mdash;We are ashamed</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">145-158</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">Montenegro's oldest building&mdash;The ride to the Mora&#269;a Monastery&mdash;A
+perilous bridge and ascent&mdash;The Abbot's tale&mdash;We inspect
+the Monastery&mdash;The health of the King is drunk&mdash;The relative
+merits of Boers and Montenegrins&mdash;The Abbot makes us
+presents&mdash;We visit a peasant's house and a Homeric feast&mdash;A
+feu-de-joie&mdash;Departure from Kola&#353;in&mdash;We are mistaken for
+doctors again&mdash;Raskrsnica</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">159-174</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">A typical mountain hut&mdash;Costume of the north-eastern borderers&mdash;Supper
+and a song&mdash;We go out hunting, and cause excitement&mdash;The
+Feast of Honour&mdash;We ride to Andrijevica&mdash;Andrijevica
+and our inn&mdash;The Voivoda&mdash;We go to church&mdash;Turkish visitors&mdash;Alarums</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">175-188</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">The Voivoda's invitation&mdash;Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika&mdash;The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story&mdash;We
+arrive at Velika&mdash;The men of Velika&mdash;The m&eacute;nu&mdash;Border
+jurisdiction&mdash;A shooting-match&mdash;The Kom&mdash;Pleasant evenings&mdash;A
+young philosopher&mdash;Sunset</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">189-203</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">We leave Andrijevica&mdash;Our additional escort&mdash;The arrival at our
+camping-place&mdash;In an enemy's country&mdash;The story of one
+Gjoli&#263;&mdash;Our slumbers are disturbed&mdash;Sunrise on the Alps&mdash;We
+disappoint our escort&mdash;"Albanian or Montenegrin?"&mdash;A reconnaissance&mdash;The
+Forest of Vu&#269;ipotok&mdash;The forbidden land&mdash;narrow
+escape&mdash;We arrive at Rikavac&mdash;Rain damps our
+ardour&mdash;Nocturnal visitors</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">204-220</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">More memorial stones&mdash;We get wet again&mdash;Unwilling hosts&mdash;A
+fall&mdash;The Franciscan of Zatrijeba&#263;&mdash;The ravine of the Zem&mdash;Methods
+of settling tribal differences&mdash;A change of diet and more
+pleasant evenings&mdash;A fatalist&mdash;Sunday morning</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">221-232</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof&mdash;Ke&#263;o's story&mdash;The
+laws of vendetta and their incongruity&mdash;We return to
+Podgorica&mdash;The Montenegrin telephone&mdash;An elopement causes
+excitement&mdash;The Sultan's birthday&mdash;The reverse of the picture&mdash;A
+legal anomaly</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">233-247</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">S. Vasili and Ostrog&mdash;Our drive thither&mdash;Joyful pilgrims&mdash;Varied
+costumes&mdash;We meet the Vladika of Montenegro&mdash;The ordeal
+of hot coffee&mdash;A real pilgrimage&mdash;The shrine of S. Vasili&mdash;The
+ancient hermit&mdash;A miracle&mdash;Nik&#353;i&#263;&mdash;The gaudy cathedral
+and the Prince's palace&mdash;We are disappointed at Nik&#353;i&#263;</a></td>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">248-262</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">The Club and its members&mdash;Gugga&mdash;Irregularities of time&mdash;The
+absence of the gentle muse and our surprise&mdash;The musician's
+story and his subsequent fate&mdash;The Black Earth&mdash;A typical
+border house&mdash;The ordeal of infancy&mdash;A realistic performance
+which is misunderstood&mdash;Concerning a memorable drive&mdash;A
+fervent prayer</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">263-279</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje&mdash;A Montenegrin wake and
+its consequences&mdash;A hero's death&mdash;Montenegrin conversation&mdash;Needless
+appeals to the Deity&mdash;We visit the hospital</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">280-289</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td class="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI</a></td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">The Law Court in Cetinje&mdash;The Prince as patriarch&mdash;A typical
+lawsuit&mdash;Pleasant hours with murderers&mdash;Our hostel&mdash;A Babel
+of tongues&mdash;Our sojourn draws to a close&mdash;The farewell cup
+of coffee and apostrophe</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">290-297</td></tr>
+<tr>
+  <td >&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td ><span class="smcap"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></span></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">298</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span></p>
+
+<table  summary="Illustrations">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><span class="smcap">Face Page</span></td></tr>
+  <tr>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_1">H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><a href="#image_2">THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">33</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_3">THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">37</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_4">NJEGUSI</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">38</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_5">THE GUSLAR</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">39</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_6">MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">43</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_7">THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">43</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_8">THE PRINCE'S PALACE</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">45</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_9">GENERAL VIEW OF CETINJE</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">46</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_10">THE FEMALE PRISONERS</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">50</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_11">THE PRISONERS DANCING</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">52</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_12">THE VIZIER BRIDGE</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">62</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_13">GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">65</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_14">THE RIBNICA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">67</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_15">THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">86</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_16">VOIVODA MARKO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">89</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_17">SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">89</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_18">SPUZ</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">90</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_19">ACHMET UIKO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">100</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_20">SOKOL BACO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">100</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_21">THE POP OF VRANJINA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">104</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_22">AN ALBANIAN GIRL</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">104</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_23">VIRPAZAR</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">111</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_24">ANTIVARI OR BAR</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">113</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_25">MARKO IVANKOVIC</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">122</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_26">THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">122</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_27">VACCINATION</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">129</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_28">BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">129</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_29">THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">137</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_30">KOLASIN&mdash;THE MARKET-PLACE</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">157</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_31">THE KOLO</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">157</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_32">A TYPICAL ROAD</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">160</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_33">THE MORACA MONASTERY</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">162</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_34">OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">175</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_35">ANDRIJEVICA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">183</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_36">CHURCH PARADE</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">185</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_37">VELIKA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">195</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_38">MORINA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">198</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_39">THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">198</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_40">THE VASOJEYICKI KOM</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">199</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_41">ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">199</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_42">THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">205</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_43">THE PATH THROUGH THE VUCIPOTOK</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">215</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_44">AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAC</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">231</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_45">MONTENEGRIN WOMEN</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">252</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_46">THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">255</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_47">THE UPPER MONASTERY</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">256</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_48">THE CHURCH, NIKSIC</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">260</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_49">THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">260</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_50">A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">274</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#image_51">AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA</a></td>
+  <td class="tocpg">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tocpg">274</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2>
+
+
+<p>"What a terrible country!" said a lady tourist to me once in Cetinje,
+"nothing but barren grey rocks; and what poverty! I declare I shan't
+breathe freely till I am out of it again."</p>
+
+<p>This is a common opinion of travellers to Montenegro, and one that is
+spread by them all over Europe. And yet how unjust! A fairly large
+number of tourists take the drive from beautiful little Cattaro up
+that wild mountain-side and through the barren Katunska to Cetinje. A
+few hours later they return the way they came, convinced that they
+have seen Montenegro. A few, very few, prolong the tour to Podgorica
+and Nik&#353;i&#263;, returning with a still firmer conviction that they have
+penetrated into the very fastnesses of that wonderful little land.
+These chosen few have at least seen that all is not bare and rocky,
+that there are rich green valleys, rushing mountain torrents, and
+pleasant streams.</p>
+
+<p>If they are very observant they will likewise notice <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span>that the men of
+these parts are more wildly clad and fiercer-looking than their more
+polished brethren of the "residence." Rifles are carried more
+universally the nearer lies Albania, and in Podgorica itself they will
+have seen&mdash;particularly if chance has brought them there on a
+market-day&mdash;crowds of savage-looking hill-men, clad in the white serge
+costume of Albania, standing over their handful of field produce with
+loaded rifles; stern men from the borders with seamed faces; sturdy
+plains-men tanned to a mahogany tint by the almost tropical sun of the
+valleys; shepherds in great sheepskins, be it ever so hot; and haughty
+Turks, hodjas, and veiled women, all in a crowded confusion, haggling
+and bartering. Quaint wooden carts drawn by patient oxen, their huge
+clumsy wheels creaking horribly; gypsies with thunderous voices acting
+as town criers; madmen shrieking horribly; blind troubadours droning
+out songs of heroes on their guslars. If the tourist has witnessed and
+understood all this, then he has seen something of Montenegro. But
+beyond those lofty mountains which rise on either side of the carriage
+road, live these same people in their rude villages. There are towns
+far away, unconnected by any road, to reach which the traveller must
+journey wearily by horse and on foot, over boulder-strewn paths, by
+the side of roaring torrents, through the cool depths <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span>of primeval
+forests, and over the snow-clad spurs of rugged mountains. There he
+will find men accustomed to face death at any moment, who delight in
+giving hospitality, and who talk of other lands as "the world
+outside." These are the Montenegrins to whom we owe some of the most
+pleasant reminiscences of our lives.</p>
+
+<p>Our book does not describe the whole country, as unfortunately we were
+unable to visit the northern districts and the lofty Durmitor, but we
+certainly saw the more interesting half, namely, the whole of the
+Albanian frontier.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst those hardy borderers we made many warm friends, but it would
+be invidious to mention names amongst so many. We came to the country
+with a single introduction, to Dr. Stefanelli, the companion of many
+of our journeys, and we left at the conclusion of six months with a
+host of friends. Still to two we wish humbly to express our gratitude
+for many acts of, at the time, unknown courtesy, namely, H.R.H. Prince
+Nicolas, and the Metropolitan of Montenegro, Mitrofanban. As a slight
+token of our thanks to, and admiration of, that true father of his
+people, Prince Nicolas, we respectfully dedicate this book to the
+soldier-poet and prince of the Land of the Black Mountain.</p>
+
+<p>Since we finished the story of our travels, I have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</a></span>had the honour of
+speaking long with Prince Nicolas and of seeing him on many occasions;
+for during our first travels in the land we were always strangely
+unlucky in this respect. I then learnt how our progress through
+Montenegro had been watched over, and contingencies provided for,
+which we had taken as a matter of course.</p>
+
+<p>Some, alas! of our friends are now no more. The Governor of Podgorica
+was shot down in broad daylight a short while ago whilst taking his
+midday promenade in which we so often shared. Others, too, have fallen
+on the borders. Friends are easily lost in Montenegro, where a charge
+of powder and a bullet settle differences.</p>
+
+<p>Disagreeable episodes happened to us&mdash;they happen everywhere&mdash;but
+these we have rightly or wrongly omitted. The good that we experienced
+certainly outweighed the bad, and that shall be our reason for so
+doing.</p>
+
+<p>And again, throughout the book we have given our <i>first</i> impressions,
+much of it was written during our actual progress through the land. It
+may be that our feelings will thus be more interesting than a
+cut-and-dried treatise of the land and its inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion, it will not be amiss to add an explanation of the Serb
+names which appear throughout the book in the original spelling. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[xvii]</a></span>names have often an unpronounceable appearance, and look harsh and
+forbidding. This is far from the case, for the Serb language is
+full-toned and musical.</p>
+
+<p>In common with the Slav languages it has a sixth vowel, viz.
+"r"&mdash;hence such words as "Srb" (Serb), "trg" (place or square), and
+"Trst" (Triest). It is only necessary to roll the "r" to overcome this
+seeming anomaly of a collection of consonants. The language is spoken
+exactly as it is written, as for instance Italian, but the consonants
+s, c, and z vary according to their accents.</p>
+
+<p>"s" is our sharp s; but with inverted circumflex</p>
+
+<p>"&#353;" it becomes "ssh," as in "show."</p>
+
+<p>"c" is pronounced "tz": thus Cetinje is spoken Tzetinje; Podgorica as
+Podgoritza.</p>
+
+<p>"&#263;" and "&#269;" are accentuated "tsch": as Petrovi&#263;, Petrovitsch; Mora&#269;a,
+Moratcha.</p>
+
+<p>"z" is soft, as "s" in "rose."</p>
+
+<p>"&#382;" is sounded like the French "j" in "journal."</p>
+
+<p>"d&#382;" is sounded like the "j" in "James."</p>
+
+<p>"nj" is sounded like the "gn" in French "campagne": Tzetign&eacute;
+(Cetinje), and so on.</p>
+
+<p>We are fully aware of many shortcomings, and for these we crave
+pardon, but if we benefit little Montenegro by the publication of our
+work, then we shall not have written it in vain.</p>
+
+<p>England has once before proved the friend of Montenegro; the fighting
+instincts of that brave <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">[xviii]</a></span>race, their love of freedom, and the
+possession of their most glorious of histories appeal to all of us.</p>
+
+<p>I fear there are troublous times ahead for that gallant little nation,
+perhaps another bitter disappointment is in store for them, when they
+will need a friend.</p>
+
+<p>Times have changed now, personal valour avails but little against
+overwhelming armies and modern artillery.</p>
+
+<p>"We little nations must beseech the Almighty to give us peace," said
+Prince Nicolas to me not so very long ago.</p>
+
+<p>May it be His will!</p>
+
+<p style="text-align:right; ">R.W.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-left:2em; "><span class="smcap">Vienna</span>, <i>February, 1903</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="THE_LAND_OF_THE_BLACK_MOUNTAIN" id="THE_LAND_OF_THE_BLACK_MOUNTAIN"></a>THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN</h2>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>CHAPTER I</h2>
+
+<h3>Montenegro's geographical position&mdash;Character of the people&mdash;Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms&mdash;Likeness to the Homeric
+Greeks&mdash;The women&mdash;Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of
+privacy, police&mdash;Goodness of the Prince&mdash;The national
+costume&mdash;Religion&mdash;Hatred of Austria&mdash;Russia's friendship.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Roughly Montenegro is diamond-shaped, with its points towards north
+and south, east and west. To the north-east it is bounded by the
+Sandjak of Novipazar, held by Turkey and Austria jointly, and dividing
+it from its parent country, the kingdom of Servia. To the south-east
+lies Albania, while Austria again borders Montenegro in Bosnia and the
+Hercegovina in the north-west and in Dalmatia to the south-west.
+Dalmatia and a narrow strip of the Adria complete the circuit, so
+Austria practically surrounds Montenegro on three sides.</p>
+
+<p>The land may be said to possess three distinct belts of vegetation,
+each of an entirely different character. It is divided from north to
+south by the River Zeta, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>and the low-lying plains are fertile and
+rich, and this district also comprises the sea coast. To the west is
+the Katunska or "Shepherds' huts," those barren and rocky mountains of
+old Montenegro, from which the country derives its name; while to the
+east lies the Brda, mountains vying with Switzerland in beauty, rich
+grazing grounds and densely-wooded hills abounding with game, and the
+streams well stocked with fish.</p>
+
+<p>The plains are the granaries of Montenegro, unfortunately too limited
+in area to give an abundance, but there is a mine of wealth in the
+Brda, when that part shall be opened up by connecting roads. The vast
+primeval forests and mineral products will be an important source of
+income in the times to come. Even at the present day the district
+constitutes the chief source of revenue from the export of cattle,
+sheep, and horses which flourish on the magnificent mountain
+pasturages. Montenegrin wool, greatly famed, comes too from the Brda.</p>
+
+<p>It is chiefly in the Katunska, the cradle of the Montenegrin nation,
+that the most interesting geological formations are to be found, and
+in these formations lay its former strength. The most prominent
+features of the Karst region are imperfect valleys which have no
+outlet. As a consequence of this, the water cannot escape by an
+overground bed, so it forces itself through the porous surface to
+reappear in a lower valley, undermining the subsoil, which in time
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>collapses, and forms the oases of this otherwise barren land. The
+rain washes down the little earth that there is on the hillside, the
+chemical action of the limestone oxidises the same, and the so-called
+"terra rossa" is formed in these depressions, sufficient to give
+nourishment to the trees and bushes which grow there. The frugal
+peasant cultivates these tiny patches of earth and derives enough
+crops to subsist on, the goats and cattle living on the bushes and
+smaller trees.</p>
+
+<p>In olden times the little nation found barely enough substance for
+themselves, consisting as they did of but a few thousand, but an
+invading army starved. It was in truth a land "where a small army is
+beaten, a large one dies of hunger."</p>
+
+<p>The character of the people has been formed by their surroundings.
+Hardy and frugal, capable of subsisting on the smallest amount of
+nourishment, lithe and active, and open and fearless as their native
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Their food consists of a piece of maize bread at daybreak, and they
+eat nothing again till sunset, when bread and a little milk form their
+evening meal. Meat is eaten but rarely, and then they feast. The
+athletic feat of crossing rock-strewn surfaces, bounding from rock to
+rock at a great pace, rivalling their goats in sure-footedness at dizzy
+and precipitous heights, has lent their gait that perfect grace of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>motion which characterises the mountaineer, and in particular the
+Montenegrin. The danger in which they have perpetually lived,
+accustomed to look death in the face at any moment, has stamped upon
+them that open and fearless look which most forcibly strikes the
+stranger.</p>
+
+<p>Their blood is of the purest and noblest in the Balkans, for they are
+largely descended from the noble families of the old Servian Empire
+who fled to the Katunska after the bloody field of Kossovo, which
+destroyed the might of the Serbs for ever. It is probably from these
+ancestors that their noble bearing and perfect manners, in even
+strange and unaccustomed surroundings, are derived. Their notion of
+honour is of the highest, and thieving and robbery are practically
+unknown.</p>
+
+<p>Prince Nicolas, like King Alfred, trusts his subjects in this matter
+of thieving implicitly. Should a man drop a case of banknotes on the
+road, the law says that the finder shall pick it up and place it on
+the nearest stone, so that the loser has but to retrace his steps,
+glancing at the wayside stones. This law is invariably followed.</p>
+
+<p>The Montenegrins are still an armed nation, and the following proverbs
+illustrate their love of weapons. One says, "A man without arms is a
+man without freedom"; the other says, "Thou mayest as well take away
+my brother as my rifle."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Their patriotism and unswerving loyalty to the reigning Prince have
+ever been their most brilliant virtues.</p>
+
+<p>The famous traveller Kohl has likened the Montenegrins to the ancient
+Greeks of Homeric times, and the comparison holds good to this day.</p>
+
+<p>"Love of freedom and pride of weapons, simplicity of life&mdash;remember
+the love of mutton and wine, as described by Homer&mdash;hospitality, the
+superiority of man over woman, all these features, together with the
+fact that the heroes are themselves the singers of their deeds," says
+Kohl, "are to be found in the Montenegrins, as well as in the Greeks
+of Homer."</p>
+
+<p>Woman takes a very inferior position in Montenegro. She is respected
+in a sense, and her position has improved greatly in recent times,
+chiefly owing to the example set by the Prince himself. At the
+official reception held on New Year's Day, when the humblest peasant
+can go to Cetinje and kiss the Prince's hand, Prince Nicolas places
+his wife to his right, and every man must first kiss her hand. Thus in
+the highest classes woman takes very nearly the same place as in
+civilised lands, but as the social scale descends, so does the
+position of woman.</p>
+
+<p>In the lowest classes she is still not much more than a beast of
+burden, given to man to ease his lot. She carries heavy burdens to
+market, while her lord rides; she may not walk at his side, but a few
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>paces to the rear; neither may she sit at table in the presence of
+strange men. The kiss with which men salute each other is not allowed
+to her, and she must kiss the hand only of the man. Likewise, she must
+rise to her feet when men pass by, and in some districts, should she
+meet a man on the way, she must stop and remain standing meekly at the
+side of the path; also, she must leave the room backwards. Neither of
+these last-mentioned customs is universal, but are to be found largely
+in the Brda.</p>
+
+<p>The men are handsome and often of immense stature. Giants of 6 feet 8
+inches are by no means uncommon; in fact, a few such men will be seen
+in every town. The average height is quite 5 feet 10 or 11 inches,
+broad-shouldered and deep-chested, with pleasant faces.</p>
+
+<p>The women are often strikingly beautiful, especially when young, but
+hard work ages them very quickly; in the upper classes, however,
+middle-aged and elderly women of regal appearance can often be seen.
+It is the manners of such women and universally of the men which comes
+as the greatest surprise, when it is remembered that none or very few
+have ever seen anything of the outside world.</p>
+
+<p>The faults of the nation are inordinate vanity in their appearance,
+causing them to impoverish themselves for the sake of gorgeous
+clothes, and gambling. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>They gamble to an excessive degree, heaping
+debt after debt upon their heads. Both these vices have caused an
+active legislation. Gold embroidery has been abolished on the uniforms
+of the army officers, and Prince Danilo has already declared that on
+coming to the throne he will abolish the national costume altogether,
+<i>i.e.</i> amongst the officials and the upper classes.</p>
+
+<p>They love money and will do a good deal to get it, but when they have
+money, they spend it in a reckless and freehanded manner. Thus they
+will overcharge a stranger in an exorbitant fashion, thinking, in
+their simple minds, that travellers are possessed of unlimited means.
+Tourists are largely to blame for this, and pay, without audible
+comment, what is asked. If a strong remonstrance is made, the charge
+will be reduced in most cases. The dawn of civilisation has brought
+the love of money, the frugal Montenegrins are now awakening to what
+money will procure them, and they take as much as they can get without
+thought, and without swindling intentions. Perhaps the lack of banks
+or any institute where money can be saved up, may account for this.
+Merchants buy houses or increase their stock. The peasant, as often as
+not, gambles it away or buys fine clothes, a few thrifty ones
+purchasing an extra cow.</p>
+
+<p>No doubt the influence of civilisation, and in par<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>ticular the
+long-delayed prosperity of the land which is now slowly raising its
+head, will alter this.</p>
+
+<p>They very rarely quarrel, never brawl, and are hardly ever to be seen
+in a state of intoxication.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, they are merry, convivial, boon companions, and are
+never happier than when dancing, singing their war songs and love
+romances, or listening to the "guslar"&mdash;the national troubadour.</p>
+
+<p>The characteristic bravery is still manifested in reckless deeds of
+"derring do" on the Albanian borders. Shepherds will deliberately
+drive their flocks across the frontier, thereby courting instant
+death. Many instances have been given illustrating their love of
+danger.</p>
+
+<p>Privacy of dwellings is non-existent. Men walk in and out, seating
+themselves in the room and talking. In the evening the men will
+congregate, stand and squat in a large ring, and solemnly discuss the
+events of the day, or in towns will walk majestically up and down the
+main street swinging the graceful "struka" or shawl from their
+shoulders. Likewise, the drinking-houses are used as common
+meeting-places, and there is no need to order refreshment.</p>
+
+<p>Marriages, baptisms, deaths are occasions for great feasting, when the
+national sheep is killed and roasted whole, and wine and spirits
+consumed in appalling <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>quantities, without however affecting the heads
+of these iron people.</p>
+
+<p>To keep order, there is a ridiculously small force of police or
+gendarmes, and their object is more to preserve the peace in places
+where different races meet, animated with fanatical hatred of each
+other. But during the whole time of our sojourn in Montenegro, we
+never witnessed a single case of men arrested for petty offences, or
+for breaking the peace by common brawling or drunkenness. The only
+cases that we did see were connected with the vendetta, which still
+flourishes. In the course of our travels in the land we have
+sufficiently illustrated this lamentable feature that no further
+comments are necessary.</p>
+
+<p>Prince Nicolas is said to know the name of every one of his subjects,
+and will accost him by it. This is doubtless a great exaggeration, and
+probably means that he knows personally all those who fought under him
+in the last war, when the nation was considerably smaller than it is
+now.</p>
+
+<p>No man is too humble but that the Prince will stop and speak to him,
+and ask him how the world is using him. The man rarely goes
+empty-handed away. In these latter days the Prince is not so
+open-handed as formerly, neither does he make so free with his
+presence, but still it is no difficult thing for any of his subjects
+to obtain an audience. He will stop a man <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>at haphazard on the road
+and examine his weapons, and woe betide him if his revolver is carried
+empty. Every chamber but one must be loaded.</p>
+
+<p>A characteristic instance of the Prince's observancy was once given in
+Cetinje. An incongruous habit is creeping into the country of carrying
+a huge cotton umbrella in the great heat. The Prince met a man
+carrying one open, and promptly broke it over his head, saying&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Art thou a hero, to carry a woman's sunshade?"</p>
+
+<p>For even to-day the youngest man will maintain that he is a "hero" by
+right of ancestry, and has no doubt of his capability to act up to the
+traditions of his country in the event of war.</p>
+
+<p>The national costume is worn by all, and in the richer classes is very
+gorgeous. The combination of colour is in exquisite taste. There are
+many variations, but a description of the gala uniform will suffice.</p>
+
+<p>The cap, or "kapa," is the same for Prince and peasant. It is red with
+a deep black border, which only leaves a small crown of the foundation
+colour. On this crown in one corner are the letters "&#1053;.I." (in Latin
+characters "N.I." or Nicolas 1st) and five semicircles in gold. The
+explanations as to the meanings are slightly different. Both say the
+black border is symbolic of mourning for the losses at Kossovo, while
+the five lines are explained either as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>signifying the five centuries
+which have elapsed since that terrible battle or as symbolic of a
+rainbow&mdash;the sign of hope that one day the glories of the old Serb
+empire will be restored. The red crown signifies "the field of blood,"
+as the Hebrews have it. Furthermore, the different insignia of rank
+are worn on the rim of the cap, from the double eagle and lion of the
+senator in brass, the different combinations of crossed swords of the
+officer, to the simple star of lead of the corporal.</p>
+
+<p>The costume consists of a "d&#382;amadan," a red waistcoat, embroidered
+with gold or black silk&mdash;the former on gala occasions&mdash;over which the
+"gunj" is worn, a long, white or very pale blue coat, cut so that the
+breast is left open and free. Another sleeveless jacket is worn,
+again, over the gunj, called the "jelek," and is a mass of heavy gold
+and silk embroidery, quite stiff in fact, and a marvel of beautiful
+tracing and patterns.</p>
+
+<p>Round the waist are three separate belts, the first a common belt,
+then the leather "kolan" for the support of the weapons, and over all
+a silk sash, the "pas," sometimes twenty yards long, wound round and
+round many times and of brilliant colours.</p>
+
+<p>Below, knee-breeches of dark blue material and voluminous proportions,
+called "ga&#263;e," bordered round the pockets with gold-work, and high,
+patent-leather boots. This latter is merely modern dandyism; the still
+invariably worn "dokoljenice" are white gaiters, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>fastened at the back
+with hooks and eyes, which reach to the "opanki"&mdash;shoes made of a flat
+leather sole, bound over with a thick network of whipcord.</p>
+
+<p>The ordinary costume of the better classes for everyday wear (and this
+is the uniform of the officers) is a short red jacket, embroidered
+like the waistcoat in black silk, with sleeves carried either hussar
+fashion, hanging behind, or over the sleeves of the waistcoat.</p>
+
+<p>Then there are green gunj and even dark blue. The peasant wears
+usually a coarse white serge gunj for every day and an ordinary shirt.</p>
+
+<p>In the mountain districts and borderlands of the Brda the Albanian
+costume of tight-fitting white serge trousers, bordered with black
+braid, is largely worn.</p>
+
+<p>The women wear a somewhat modified array of colour. The girls wear the
+kapa, without the letters or rainbow; the married women a lace
+mantilla over their shoulders. The hair is worn, in the case of the
+married women, in a heavy crown-like plait.</p>
+
+<p>A white, slightly embroidered bodice, silver girdle, and silk skirt,
+over which is worn a similar open coat to the gunj. And again over
+this comes the "je&#269;erma," a jacket of red, blue, or violet velvet,
+according to the age of the woman.</p>
+
+<p>The effect in both men and women is tasteful and picturesque in the
+extreme.</p>
+
+<p>The struka, or shawl, is greatly worn by men, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>the sweeping,
+swinging effect is most pleasing. It is a shawl of sufficient length
+that when folded to a narrow width and worn over the shoulders the
+tassels just touch the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the poorest peasants wear huge sheepskin jackets, even in hot
+weather.</p>
+
+<p>At the head of the Greek Orthodox Church, which is the religion of the
+land, is an Archbishop, or "Vladika." Hardly more than half a century
+ago, the Vladika was Prince and Bishop in one. To-day the Vladika is
+absolute spiritual head of the Church in Montenegro, and only in
+matters pertaining to divorce are his rulings reversible by the
+Prince.</p>
+
+<p>The hatred of the Roman Catholic religion is most marked. The term
+"Catholic" is an epithet of opprobrium. Hence the hatred of Albania,
+which on the borders is entirely Roman Catholic. The hated Catholics
+also, in the shape of Austria, hem in Montenegro on three sides, and
+this factor, added to the unfriendly part that Austria played at the
+Berlin Congress, may account for the growing animosity which is now
+slowly making itself manifest against her in Montenegro. Turkey is no
+longer feared; in fact, friendly relations are cultivated and steadily
+increasing; but against Austria very different feelings are held.
+Austria holds the Bocche de Cattaro, which the Montenegrins took
+possession of in the Napoleonic wars, commands Antivari, and has edged
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>herself in between the kingdom of Servia and Montenegro in the
+Sandjak of Novipazar. The inhabitants of the Bocche and a large part
+of the population of Bosnia and the Hercegovina look to the Prince of
+Montenegro as their lawful ruler.</p>
+
+<p>It is the oft and open stated dream of Prince Nicolas to see the great
+Serb-speaking nations re-united, and much as Russia has helped and is
+fostering this wish, Austria relentlessly checkmates every move in
+this direction. Austria is even striving to gain influence in Albania
+through the means of the Roman Catholic priests, who are said to be
+largely in her pay.</p>
+
+<p>Thus Austria, surrounding Montenegro as she does at present, and
+enlisting the sympathies of the Albanians, can command every inlet to
+that brave little country. A "Schwab," as every German-speaking
+foreigner is termed, is consequently viewed with no friendly eyes;
+while the Russian is welcomed openly as a friend.</p>
+
+<p>Russia, however, can never hope to buy the allegiance of the
+Montenegrins; for while appreciating friendly assistance, the faintest
+attempt to obtain undue influence of power would be sharply resented.</p>
+
+<p>Montenegro will yield her absolute independence to none.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+
+<h3>History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, down to
+the present Prince&mdash;Fruits of the last campaign&mdash;Education&mdash;The
+military system&mdash;Legal administration&mdash;Crime&mdash;Government&mdash;The educated
+classes.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The district which corresponds most nearly to Montenegro of the
+present day comes first into notice when the Romans attacked Queen
+Teuta and drove her back beyond the modern Podgorica in the third
+century <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> From this time onwards Roman influence made
+itself felt strongly in the Pr&aelig;valitana, an outlying province of
+Illyria, and the city of Dioclea&mdash;whose ruins still exist in the
+neighbourhood of Podgorica, and which was to play such an important
+part in the germ state of Crnagora, or the "Land of the Black
+Mountain"&mdash;rose into being. Diocletian, the famous divider of the
+Roman Empire, was born there, and the city became the capital of the
+district to which it gave the name. The triumvirs placed the
+border-line of the Eastern and Western divisions at Skodra, or
+Scutari, as the Europeans call it. Under the early empire, the land
+was perpetually changing from East to West, but when the Western
+division fell under the weight of barbarian invasions <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>&#467;in 476 A.D.,
+it was finally incorporated in the East. This was a momentous
+decision, for the manners and habits of the people still remain tinged
+with Eastern life, and in the ninth century it secured their adhesion
+to the Eastern Church, which influences their policy to the present
+time. The principality of Dioclea, or Zeta, as it soon became called,
+was one of the confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius in 622
+A.D., to act as a buffer state against the inroads of the Avars. Each
+state was ruled by a &#381;upan or Prince who owed allegiance to the Grand
+&#381;upan, the head of the heptarchy. But the confederation was very
+loose, the rival chieftains fighting amongst one another for the
+supremacy, for the Serb race has ever been noted for its lack of unity
+and corresponding love of freedom. The famous Bulgarian Czar Samuel,
+<i>circa</i> 980, who had overrun the rest of the Serb states, and made for
+himself a great empire, found that he was powerless to conquer the
+warlike John Vladimir of the Zeta; and again, nearly a century later,
+in 1050, we find the Zeta &#381;upa so powerful that their Prince assumes
+the title of King of Servia, and is confirmed in his right by Gregory
+VII., the famous Pope Hildebrand. Dissensions then broke out again,
+and for the next hundred years the land owned the sway of the Greek
+Empire. The two most celebrated Serb kings&mdash;Stefan Nemanja (1143) and
+Stefan Du&#353;an (1336-1356)&mdash;both ascended to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>the head of the
+confederation from the principality of the Zeta. The latter raised the
+Serb kingdom to its zenith, and formed an ephemeral empire which bears
+many a resemblance to that of Napoleon. Montenegro had all this time
+been steadily growing, and on the accession of Du&#353;an to Servia, the
+district of the Zeta fell to the Bal&#353;i&#263;, who proved themselves to be a
+strong and competent race of rulers. They increased their territories
+to such an extent that, at the time of the battle of Kossovo, they
+could boast to ruling over all the land from Ragusa to the mouth of
+the Drin, including the present West Montenegro and Southern
+Hercegovina, with Skodra as the capital. After the overthrow of the
+great Servian Empire on the field of Kossovo, Montenegro became
+entirely independent of outside suzerainty, and from the year 1389 to
+the present day, is the only Balkan state which has successfully
+defied the invasions of the Turk. The Bal&#353;i&#263; engaged themselves in
+several fruitless wars with Venice, by which they lost Skodra, so
+that, when their line died out and the succession fell to Stefan
+Crnoievi&#263; (the name Crnoievi&#263;, Black Prince, is supposed by some to be
+the origin of the name Crnagora or Black Mountain), a new capital must
+perforce be built, at the northern end of the lake, called &#381;abljak.
+Stefan Crnoievi&#263; allied himself with Skenderbeg, the King of Albania,
+and within twelve years is said to have fought over fifty battles
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>with the Turks who, in their impotent rage, poured army after army
+into the land, but entirely failed to break the courage of this brave
+little people. His people gave him the title of Voivoda of the Zeta,
+but the limits of his principality seem to have been very undefined.
+The position of his son Ivan was, however, of greater danger, for in
+1444 the kingdom of Hungary had fallen before the Turk, and they
+captured Constantinople nine years later; after this Servia, Bosnia,
+Albania (on the death of Skenderbeg), and Hercegovina were overrun in
+quick succession. In 1484 Ivan found himself obliged to burn his
+capital of &#381;abljak, and retire into the more inaccessible mountain
+fastnesses of the Katunska, the district round Cetinje. Cetinje itself
+was chosen by Ivan as his new centre, and though hardly pressed, he
+inflicted many severe defeats upon the Turks. Arrived in his new
+capital, he called his braves together, and told them that if they
+would surrender to the foe, they must find a new Prince, for, as for
+himself, he preferred death. So this little band of warriors, and they
+could not have numbered more than eight thousand fighting men, swore
+to resist this almighty foe to death&mdash;not to attack, but to resist. It
+must have been an impressive scene, this compact between Prince and
+people, and later history bears out fully how nobly the descendants of
+these mountain warriors have kept to their oath. For they, alone, of
+all <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>the Balkan states, have successfully repulsed the Turk, who,
+though often seemingly victorious, has returned home with shattered
+armies and full of impotent rage.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<img src="images/043.jpg" width="700" height="604" alt="SKETCH MAP OF MONTENEGRO." title="SKETCH MAP OF MONTENEGRO." />
+<span class="caption">SKETCH MAP OF MONTENEGRO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In their need they applied to Venice for help, quoting the great
+assistance that they were rendering her in occupying the Turks; but
+the Queen of Cities, who was at that moment occupied in patching up a
+treaty with the Sultan, turned a deaf ear to their entreaties.
+Montenegro found then, for the first time&mdash;and all through her history
+she was destined to find the same&mdash;that she must fight her battles
+alone. Allies have used her always for their own ends and then
+shamefully deserted her. Yet all through the spirit of indomitable
+courage has never deserted the children of Crnagora, for they could
+never forget the oath which their forefathers had sworn for them.</p>
+
+<p>Ivan, after several great victories, was left to end his days in
+peace. He spent his years well in strengthening the land, both in the
+arts of war and peace. In Obod, which is close to Rijeka, he erected a
+printing press, some twenty years after Caxton had set up his in
+Westminster, and though it was afterwards burnt by the Turks, still
+the remembrance of it remains right glorious in Montenegrin memory.</p>
+
+<p>The last Crnoievi&#263; relinquished his home for Venice. He had married a
+Venetian wife, who, among the bleak mountains of the Katunska, was
+pining for the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>sun and warmth of her native city. But before leaving
+he laid down the lines for a powerful r&eacute;gime. A Prince-Bishop, or
+Vladika, was placed at the head of affairs, but, to help him in his
+difficult task, there was created a second office, that of Civil
+Governor, who was to hold a subordinate position. This office was
+abolished in 1832 by Peter II., on the treachery of the Civil Governor
+Radoni&#263;, who was found to have intrigued with the Austrians.</p>
+
+<p>From 1616 to 1696 the Vladikas were elective, and under their
+quarrelsome rule Cetinje was twice burnt and ph&#339;nix-like rose again
+from its ashes. The Turkish armies, though partially victorious,
+usually met with disaster and ruin before reaching their own territory
+again; and we read of one notable occasion when Soliman Pasha, with an
+army of 80,000 men, had sacked Cetinje. On his way home he was
+surprised by the two tribes of Ku&#263; and Klementi, and annihilated. But
+as time went on it became necessary from political reasons to change
+the system of government from election to heredity, and the choice
+fell on the Lord of Njegu&#353;i Danilo Petrovi&#263;, whose reign (1696-1735)
+is chiefly memorable for the Montenegrin vespers of the Turks and
+Turkish renegades, who had rendered so much assistance to Kiuprili
+Pasha in one of his terrible invasions. But a crushing defeat of the
+Turks in 1706 gave the land peace for thirty years.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In 1767 an adventurer named Stefan Mali sprang himself upon the land.
+He claimed to be the murdered Peter III. of Russia, and easily imposed
+himself upon the gullible Montenegrin. But he had the interests of
+Montenegro sincerely at heart, and proved an excellent ruler. His
+imposture was exposed by Catherine II., but owing to the weakness of
+the Petrovi&#263; heir, the people determined to keep him as their ruler.
+He fell a victim to the assassin's knife at the instigation of the
+Pasha of Scutari. His successor, Peter Petrovi&#263;, the famous St. Peter
+of Montenegrin history, was a firm and courageous ruler, who made his
+influence felt throughout the courts of Europe. Austria, Russia, and
+England did not scruple to avail themselves of his help and then, as
+seems to be the Montenegrin fate, left him in the lurch. He defied the
+armies of the great Napoleon, who came to fear him and his warlike
+clan insomuch that he was even offered terms of friendship. But the
+proud mountaineer would have none of it. He now turned his hand, under
+the influence of Russia, which was then very real, to the
+consolidation of the land, and slept in peace with his fathers.</p>
+
+<p>His successor, Peter II., carried on the struggle with the Turks, who
+proposed an increase of territory and a Turkish title in return for
+the acknowledgment of suzerainty. "As long as my people defend me,"
+was the proud answer, "I need no Turkish title to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>my throne; if they
+desert me, such a title would avail me little." War was the effect of
+this retort, but the Turks gained nothing by it, and peace was soon
+made.</p>
+
+<p>The danger of the power of Austria came now to be fully recognised.
+After the Napoleonic wars, Austria had retained Cattaro and Spizza,
+and trouble now broke out over some land near Budua. The Montenegrins
+fell upon the Austrians, and fierce conflicts ensued, but Peter, who
+had gained an extraordinary hold over his subjects, forbade them to
+continue. Hostilities, however, continued in a desultory fashion for
+some time.</p>
+
+<p>Peter was followed by Danilo II., a weak ruler, but his reign is
+famous for two events&mdash;the cession of the spiritual authority of the
+Prince-Bishop to an Archbishop and the "Great Charter" of Montenegro.
+Danilo's reforms, however, led the Turk again to attack his invincible
+foe, only again to end in great disaster. But in the Crimean War
+Montenegro, greatly to the disgust of the people, did not participate,
+and in the Congress which followed Danilo was offered a Turkish title
+and the hated Turkish protectorate. His willingness to accept this led
+to the formation of a strong opposition party who demanded war.
+Fortune was on their side, and the Turks invaded Montenegro. The
+command fell to Mirko, who from his former exploits had gained the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>name of the "Sword of Montenegro." A battle was fought at Grahovo,
+which will ever live in memory as the Montenegrin Marathon. The Turks
+were completely crushed by a small force of Montenegrins, and peace
+followed. His brief reign was brought to a close at Cattaro, in 1861,
+by an assassin's bullet, and Nicolas, his nephew, reigned in his
+stead.</p>
+
+<p>War broke out again on the Hercegovinian insurrection of the following
+year, the results of which were disastrous in a high degree to
+Montenegro. Even the famous Mirko, the father of Prince Nicolas, after
+sixty battles, could do no more, and the Convention of Scutari (1862)
+brought the war to a close. It was settled that Mirko, as the
+firebrand, must leave the country, and various other clauses appear in
+the Convention, few of which seem to have been strictly adhered to. It
+needed another war to settle the Turco-Montenegrin border.</p>
+
+<p>The land now enjoyed the blessings of peace for fourteen years, which
+included a severe famine and an outbreak of cholera. Help was now,
+however, forthcoming from all sides in the shape of corn and money. In
+1869 it was with great difficulty that the Prince could restrain his
+warlike subjects from aiding the revolted Krivo&#353;ejans. The Emperor of
+Austria fully recognised the harm which Montenegro could have done
+him, and signalised his thanks by the gift of an Austrian Order. But
+the Montenegrins could <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>not be restrained at the outbreak of the
+Hercegovinian revolt, and flocked to the standards of their brothers.
+The Porte's remonstrances were met with a curt demand for the cession
+of Hercegovina, and Prince Nicolas published at the same time an
+offensive and defensive alliance with Servia.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after this (1876) he declared war. Success followed his
+arms everywhere. A short armistice was concluded, but nothing further
+came of it, and the war proceeded. The Prince in person stormed the
+town of Nik&#353;i&#263;. Podgorica and its fertile plain fell into the hands of
+the conquerors, and then in quick succession Antivari and Dulcigno
+were forced to yield. He was about to commence the siege of Scutari
+when news came of the armistice between Russia and Turkey. The war had
+shown that no deteriorating element had sprung up among the people;
+they had fought as their ancestors had fought before them, and covered
+their name with glory and renown. Montenegro had gained a European
+reputation from this war, and the Porte, bowing to force of
+circumstances, finally recognised her independence. For five weary
+centuries had this struggle continued, and it is owing to the talent
+of their present ruler that the consummation of their hopes has been
+brought about. Free they always have been, but an acknowledgment of
+their freedom has ever been set aside. At last they have attained
+their object. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>Turk no longer regards them as an insubordinate
+province, and it is more than likely that their former hatred of the
+Turk will pass away, for they have another enemy, who is pressing at
+their doors on three sides. The terms of the Berlin Congress granted
+to Montenegro &#381;abljak, Spu&#382;, Podgorica, and Antivari. Dulcigno was to
+be restored to the Turks, and in exchange Gusinje and Plava were to be
+added to Montenegro. But the Albanian communities refused the lordship
+of Montenegro, and Dulcigno was granted to the Prince after a great
+naval demonstration of the Powers in 1880.</p>
+
+<p>The result of this campaign was that Prince Nicolas found his little
+kingdom increased from an area of 2,580 square kilometres, containing
+a population of 178,000 inhabitants, to over 9,000 square kilometres
+and a population of at least 240,000. In the last twenty-five years it
+has increased to quite another 100,000 inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>War has never again seriously threatened Montenegro, and Prince
+Nicolas has been enabled to devote all his energies to the improvement
+of the land.</p>
+
+<p>There is now no district, however wild and cut off it may be, without
+its school, attendance at which is purely voluntary. Right well have
+the people availed themselves of this chance of education, and a
+sliding scale of school fees permits even the poorest peasant to send
+his son as well as his more wealthy brother.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The teachers have a seminary at Cetinje, which they must first attend,
+and a gymnasium on the German and Austrian system can be visited, for
+those boys who wish to extend their education to an European standard.
+The same boys usually visit some Russian University, occasionally
+Vienna or Belgrade, and return to their native land as doctors,
+engineers, or lawyers, and supply the learned professions.</p>
+
+<p>At Cetinje there is a further High School for Girls, founded by the
+Empress Marie of Russia in 1869.</p>
+
+<p>As the older men have not enjoyed in their youth the advantages of an
+education which is now placed within the reach of all, lecturers are
+sent round the country, and on Sundays, in wild and cut-off districts,
+a man can be seen lecturing to a group of rough mountaineers who are
+listening intently. These Government lecturers teach the shepherds how
+to safeguard their sheep and cattle from disease; the lowland peasants
+are initiated into the mysteries of vine-growing (every Montenegrin
+family must plant a vine and attend to it) and tobacco-planting, and
+general information is given to all.</p>
+
+<p>The Army has been thoroughly reorganised, and is now, thanks to the
+gift of the Czar, armed with the most modern magazine rifle and
+officered by men who undergo a training in the armies of Russia,
+Italy, or France.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The army system is of the simplest. The actual standing army consists
+of one battalion and a force of artillery, but during the year 4,000
+men pass through its ranks and receive a most efficient training. The
+men return to their homes at the end of four months' training, but
+drill weekly continues, on Sundays, till the age limit of sixty is
+reached, when their arms have to be returned to the Government, who
+again serve them out to the next recruit. Thus the recruit comes
+equipped for his four months' training, and takes his arms home with
+him at the conclusion, and is responsible for their good condition.
+Each man receives a certain number of cartridges, for which he must
+always be able to account, so that every able-bodied man is an
+efficient and well-armed soldier capable of taking the field at any
+moment.</p>
+
+<p>The smartest men become non-commissioned officers, and carry the
+insignia of their rank on their caps back to private life, where they
+become again the instructors of the local militia companies. There are
+two classes of commissioned officers&mdash;the officer of the standing
+army, trained in a Continental army, and who wears a distinctive
+uniform, and at least one of these is detailed for service in all the
+militia centres; and the militia officer, who receives his training
+with the standing battalion or batteries.</p>
+
+<p>Thus at a preconcerted signal, by trumpet and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>bonfires at night, and
+in some districts by a salvo of rifles, the whole Montenegrin Army can
+be mobilised at any given spot within the time that the furthest
+detachment can travel to the place of rendezvous. An example of the
+rapidity and ease of this mobilisation was once given to the late
+Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria, at Cetinje, when an army, drawn from
+every part of the country, equipped and ready for the field, was
+assembled within thirty-six hours of the first alarm. There is no
+commissariat, for each soldier supplies his own food, or rather his
+wife will keep him supplied in a lengthy campaign; no cavalry, for
+they are useless; and no heavy artillery.</p>
+
+<p>Law is administered by district courts for the more serious cases,
+with a Supreme Court of Appeal at Cetinje. There are no lawyers or
+costs; each man brings his own case and witnesses in civil matters,
+and criminals are dealt with summarily&mdash;that is to say, his district
+captain sends him in chains to Podgorica, where he receives his final
+sentence. The smaller district captains and "kmets," or mayors, have a
+limited amount of jurisdiction, and can inflict punishments, either in
+fines or short terms of imprisonment. They also settle all minor cases
+of dispute.</p>
+
+<p>The central, and soon to be the only, prison is at Podgorica. The
+majority of prisoners are under<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>going different sentences, with and
+without chains, for murders in connection with the vendetta, according
+to the circumstances. A man who defends his honour, who kills his
+slanderer, is very lightly punished.</p>
+
+<p>Against only one class of offender does Prince Nicolas exercise his
+autocratic powers, <i>i.e.</i> the political offender, with whom he is
+relentless. Such men are thrown into prison, interred in dark cells
+without trial, and can languish till death sets them free. In this
+respect the Prince is harsh, and according to Western ideas barbaric,
+though local circumstances fully excuse his seeming cruelty. The
+smallness of the prison at Podgorica shows more forcibly than anything
+else the remarkable lack of crime in the land. At present (1902)
+dangerous lunatics are confined in the common prison, but an asylum is
+rapidly nearing completion.</p>
+
+<p>The government is autocratic. A senate, composed of the different
+ministers, exists in Cetinje, but all powers are jealously held by the
+Prince. He appoints the ministers and all the higher officials of the
+land, and only recently have the people been granted the right to
+elect the kmets.</p>
+
+<p>Montenegrin engineers now build the roads in place of Austrians and
+Russians, and the difficulties that they meet with and surpass at
+every turn are sufficient evidence of their capabilities. Foreign
+doctors and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>professors are yearly becoming more rare. In fact,
+Montenegro is rapidly becoming self-supporting and self-educating.</p>
+
+<p>Literature, always in olden times in advance of the surrounding lands,
+is fostered by the Prince, himself a scholar and a poet of no mean
+order. Two weekly papers in Cetinje and Nik&#353;i&#263; have a large
+circulation.</p>
+
+<p>Under Prince Nicolas' fatherly care the country improves in a
+wonderful manner from year to year. Roads are planned to connect the
+whole land, which only lack of funds are hindering from completion,
+and a railway is projected to connect the towns of Nik&#353;i&#263;, Podgorica,
+and Rijeka with Antivari and the sea.</p>
+
+<p>When Prince Nicolas shall be called to his fathers his son, Prince
+Danilo, will worthily carry on the work so nobly begun by his father,
+for he is a man imbued with the ideas of Western improvements and
+civilisation.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+
+<h3>The journey to Montenegro&mdash;Arrival in Cattaro&mdash;Beauty of the Bocche,
+and the drive to the frontier&mdash;First impressions of
+Montenegro&mdash;Njegu&#353;i&mdash;The national troubadours&mdash;Arrival in Cetinje.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The simplest way of entering the Land of the Black Mountain is <i>vi&acirc;</i>
+Cattaro in Dalmatia. The sea-trip from Trieste, which takes a little
+over twenty-four hours, is a revelation of beauty, for the Dalmatian
+coast is sadly unknown to the traveller. The journey can also be made
+from Fiume, whence the "Ungaro-Croata" send a good and very frequent
+service of steamers. But the idler should take a slow boat and coast
+lazily down the Dalmatian archipelago, visiting all the smaller towns
+and islands, which the fast line is bound to avoid. It is one of the
+most beautiful sea-trips in Europe, each little port possessing gems
+of old Roman and Venetian architecture, unrivalled, perhaps, in the
+world and set in a perfect framework of lovely country and dancing
+seascape.</p>
+
+<p>It was a glorious morning in May when the <i>Graf Wurmbrand</i>, the
+Austrian-Lloyd's fast steamer, left Trieste, bearing us to Cattaro.
+The Gulf of Trieste <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>is very beautiful, for the green hills, all
+dotted with villas, the busy harbour life, the Julian Alps rising up
+majestically far away on the starboard, and directly behind the town,
+gaunt and grey, the naked Karst, of which we were to see so much in
+Montenegro; all made a picture that it would be difficult to forget.</p>
+
+<p>At midday we arrived at Pola. The entrance to the harbour is well
+covered by islands, and on each of these frowns a great fort, some of
+which, however, are so carefully hidden that their locality is only
+betrayed by a flagstaff. A narrow channel leads to the inner harbour,
+Austria's naval dockyard and arsenal. Here are the warships and
+building yards, and away to the left, as a strange and unfitting
+contrast, the Arena, one of the best-preserved specimens of Roman
+work, rises seemingly from amongst the houses. Pola is full of Roman
+remains. All is so green and peaceful, in spite of the countless
+fortifications which render the harbour well-nigh, if not quite,
+impregnable, that Nature and War seem for once to go hand-in-hand.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_2" id="image_2"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/062.jpg" width="500" height="341" alt="THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO" title="THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO" />
+<span class="caption">THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At twilight Zara looms up into view, and another short stay is made.
+The town turns out <i>en masse</i> for the coming of the <i>Wurmbrand</i> or the
+<i>Pannonia</i>&mdash;the fast boats from Trieste or Fiume are the events of the
+week. There is no railway here. Unluckily Dalmatia's finest scenery is
+passed in the night. Trau, with its splendid loggias and churches;
+Spalato, with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> the grandeur of Diocletian's palace, are denied to
+the traveller; Lesina, proudly calling itself the Nice of Austria;
+Curzola, whose mighty Venetian bastions stand out into the sea, and
+many another delightful little town and island, only show a twinkling
+light or two in the darkness as the steamer ploughs by. At daybreak we
+are nearing Gravosa, Ragusa's modern port. As we leave again, and
+round the peninsula of Lapad, glorious in a mass of semi-tropical
+vegetation, Ragusa bursts upon our view. Seen on a sunny morning it is
+a sight for the gods. Built well into the sea on inaccessible cliffs,
+surrounded by lofty walls, with a great hill as a background, it has
+well been called the prettiest bit of Dalmatia. It possesses a
+magnificent winter climate and a good hotel, so that people are
+forsaking the Riviera for this comparatively unknown paradise.</p>
+
+<p>Far too soon Ragusa fades away, and now the approaching mountains grow
+higher and wilder. Those lofty peaks, towering above the others, black
+and forbidding, are Nature's bulwarks of the land which we are
+visiting. It is from a distance that the name "Black Mountain" seems
+so aptly given to this fierce little state, though some historians
+wish to explain the derivation otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>The Bocche (or mouths) di Cattaro, three in number, are a consummate
+blending of the Norwegian fjords and the Swiss lakes, and so lofty and
+steep are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>the surrounding mountains that the sun can only reach the
+bottom for a few hours at midday.</p>
+
+<p>Away at the end of one fjord lies the village of Risano, an idyllic
+spot, whence a road is in the course of construction to Nik&#353;i&#263;. All
+the worthy Bocchese are absolutely Montenegrin in sympathy, and
+Austria has had much trouble with these equally warlike Serbs.</p>
+
+<p>A curious conical hill rises out of the town, a high wall zigzags up
+to the fort above, showing Cattaro's strength of former days. Now, a
+few insignificant mounds of earth far away on the mountain-tops are
+all that is to be seen of the military might of modern Cattaro. Yet
+how powerful are those forts only the Austrian authorities know.
+Cattaro and the Bocche are impregnable from sea or land, though this
+array of strength against land attack seems almost unnecessary, as
+Montenegro possesses no heavy cannon at all. However, Austria is not
+reckoning in this case with Montenegro alone. But these are political
+questions.</p>
+
+<p>We were fortunate in securing a carriage of the Montenegrin post,
+which has good drivers, and what is still better, a fixed tariff, over
+which there can be no dispute. The drivers of Cattaro ask, and often
+get, twice the legal fare from ignorant strangers.</p>
+
+<p>Cattaro affords no comforts to the traveller; more is the pity, as it
+is one of the most magnificent spots <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>in the world. The town itself is
+tiny and a perfect maze of little Venetian streets, in which it is
+easy to lose oneself if it were only larger. To walk upon the Riva and
+gaze upon those precipitous mountains which tower above the town and
+its militarily guarded walls is a sight which at first is hardly to be
+comprehended. It is too stupendous. Such a masterpiece of Nature can
+never tire.</p>
+
+<p>Montenegrins crowd the streets, and the little market is full of
+peasants who have wearily staggered down those steep paths in the
+early dawn with their enormous loads of field produce. Stately men
+wearing the insignia of their rank on their little caps pace up and
+down majestically and contrast strangely with the dapper Austrian
+officers. Their belts yawn suggestively, something is missing to
+complete the attire. It is the revolver, which Austrian law compels
+them to leave behind on entering her land. They are obviously ill at
+ease without that familiar weapon, for ever and anon a hand strays
+unconsciously to the empty belt seeking its wonted resting-place on
+the butt.</p>
+
+<p>Strolling one night on the Riva, we involuntarily held our breath as
+we came in sight of the huge lake, for it is easy to forget that this
+is the Adria. The waters lay unruffled before us, not a ripple
+disturbed those glassy depths which reflected every tree and cottage
+on the opposite bank. Each star found its <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>double twinkling in that
+placid mirror, and mountain frowned back on mountain. It was almost
+unreal, so marvellous was the reflection. Behind us, at the top of the
+great ridge, a silvery effulgence proclaimed the coming of the moon.
+Her brilliant light silhouetted the grim and rocky ridge in startling
+clearness, though it was four thousand feet above us. Through a gap
+rises a peak, round which a filmy cloud had lovingly wrapped itself
+like a lace shawl upon the snowy shoulders of a beautiful woman. We
+took a turn down the quay, and at the end we turned our back on this
+witching view. Hardly had we retraced our steps a few yards when we
+and all our surroundings were bathed in a glorious white light. We
+turned again, and were almost forced to shield our eyes as we gazed on
+the gentle orb which had now surmounted the intervening ridge. The
+whole fjord was now transformed into a sea of silver almost as bright
+as midday. Each nestling village was distinct, even to the tiniest
+window; each tree and shrub on the wall-like mountain, and even the
+grim forts, were softened in that sweet radiance. The little paths
+which zigzag up the hills to the forts above look like great white
+snakes turning and twisting up those rugged cliffs.</p>
+
+<p>At four o'clock on the following morning we made a start, and were
+well up the mountain by the time that the sun began to make his
+presence felt.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_3" id="image_3"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/068.jpg" width="500" height="305" alt="THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO" title="THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO" />
+<span class="caption">THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The high road to Cetinje was built by the Austrians, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>and it is a
+marvel of engineering skill, particularly the ascent of the almost
+perpendicular wall of mountain rising abruptly from Cattaro. In series
+of serpentines and gradients, which often permit the horses to trot,
+the road winds up and up, every turn giving a still finer view of the
+lake below. Cattaro remains in view practically the whole ascent. The
+view from the top is magnificent and unsurpassed in Europe. The grand
+bays look like miniature glass ponds, fringed with white toy villages,
+and far away in the distance the deep blue Adria sparkles and glitters
+in the sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>Montenegro is entered some little distance from the top, but, as only
+a row of paving stones indicates the spot, it is not till the carriage
+dashes through a rocky gorge and out into the open Karst beyond that
+the traveller realises that he has crossed the border. The sudden
+change is startling, from the blue sea and green valleys to grey
+masses of limestone rock and barren mountains. It is the Katunska, the
+original stronghold of the Montenegrins, within which they defied all
+comers.</p>
+
+<p>At the first house, solidly built of stone, our carriage halted, and
+the driver entered it, emerging with the revolver which he had to
+relinquish on entering Austria. It is a formidable weapon specially
+manufactured in Vienna for Montenegro, a foot and a half long, firing
+an enormous cartridge. The revolver is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>always worn, by all classes
+alike, and carried loaded by order. The upper classes carry a much
+smaller and handier weapon, but a revolver must be carried by prince
+and peasant alike.</p>
+
+<p>Njegu&#353;i is the first town or village reached, and here an hour's rest
+is always made. It is interesting, since it was once the temporary
+capital, and as the home of the Petrovi&#263; family, the reigning dynasty.
+It lies in a great hollow of fertile ground, and on the southern side
+the historical Lov&#263;en ascends. On the top the great prince and hero,
+Peter II., is buried, and his mausoleum brings large numbers of
+pilgrims yearly.</p>
+
+<p>As our carriage drew up before the little hostelry, a crowd of boys
+were standing in front of a house opposite, which is half telegraph
+office and half school, for economy in buildings is practised in
+Montenegro. They saluted us smartly in military fashion. The born
+soldier is noticed at once, even in the small children; many
+generations of fighting ancestors have bequeathed a smartness and
+accuracy of movement which can be envied by many a Continental trained
+conscript.</p>
+
+<p>The traveller meets with little attention either here or in Cetinje.
+It is not till he gets well off the beaten track that he sees the
+hospitable and courteous Montenegrin as he really is.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_4" id="image_4"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/071.jpg" width="500" height="340" alt="NJEGU&#352;I" title="NJEGU&#352;I" />
+<span class="caption">NJEGU&#352;I</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_5" id="image_5"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/074.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="THE GUSLAR" title="THE GUSLAR" />
+<span class="caption">THE GUSLAR</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>During our frugal breakfast of raw ham and goat's <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>cheese, our
+ears were assailed by the singing of the guslar, or Montenegrin
+troubadour. The guslars, we noticed, are invariably blind, and as no
+previous musical education seems necessary, it would appear to be a
+monopoly of those so afflicted. Their singing is execrable according
+to Western notions, a range of four or five notes in a wailing minor
+key making up their register, and they accompany themselves on an
+instrument (the gusla) from which they derive their name. It is
+hand-made, resembling a cross between a violin and a mandolin. It
+possesses one string, and is played with a short curved bow. With
+careful handling, a series of discordant notes of wearying monotony
+can be produced. The performance is altogether most doleful.</p>
+
+<p>Yet they are the history books, the legend tellers of the country.
+They fan the fire of patriotism and loyalty by songs of the deeds and
+accomplishments of their Prince, of dead heroes and past glorious
+battles, and form another link with the medi&aelig;val world of which the
+traveller is so strongly reminded at every step in Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>As we left the village we passed the birthplace of Prince Nicolas I.,
+though the palace appears to have been entirely rebuilt. In nearly
+every town or village of importance the Prince has a house, varying
+considerably in size, but of equally unpretentious exterior.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The road still climbs and reaches the maximum height of three thousand
+five hundred feet. From this altitude it steadily drops into Cetinje,
+which lies about two thousand feet above the sea-level. The scenery is
+unvarying, but not without beauty. It is essentially wild, but the
+light colour of the rocks and the numerous shrubs which find a footing
+in the crevices minimise the forbidding character of the country. The
+land is magnificently adapted for guerilla warfare, where every foot
+can be contested. Little patches of earth, washed down the hillsides,
+lie in every hollow, and have been utilised by the careful peasant to
+grow his tiny crops.</p>
+
+<p>After about seven hours' driving, Cetinje appears in sight, at the end
+of a long valley, and completely surrounded by the characteristic
+naked and rugged rocks. The road descends by another series of
+serpentines, and a long straight drive brings us into the town. The
+valley is about four miles long and three-quarters of a mile broad and
+absolutely flat.</p>
+
+<p>The effect is most odd at first sight, a long main street, an open
+market-place, and a few side streets constituting the capital of an
+important European principality. The town, on entering it, bears a
+strong resemblance to a South African township, where, as is the case
+here, space is no object, and the houses are rarely more than one
+story high.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We stayed at the Grand Hotel during our first visit. It is the only
+really good hotel in Montenegro, and in consequence expensive. Here
+all the tourists stay for a night or so during a hasty visit to the
+Crnagora, and it is to be avoided by those who wish to see the
+country.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+
+<h3>Cetinje and its sights&mdash;Prince Nicolas&mdash;The Archbishop&mdash;The
+barracks&mdash;The princes&mdash;A visit to the prison and its system&mdash;Our
+departure for Podgorica.</h3>
+
+
+<p>There is not much for the tourist to see in Cetinje; a day is quite
+sufficient to do the sights, such as they are.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately for the country, the tourist usually contents himself
+with a look round the little capital and returns the way he came to
+Cattaro, only a few prolonging the tour <i>vi&acirc;</i> Rijeka to Scutari. Thus
+a very erroneous impression is gained of Montenegro and its people.
+Firstly only a small part of the Katunska is seen, which is the most
+uninteresting district of the whole country; and, secondly, no idea of
+the sturdy inhabitants can be formed from the handful of more or less
+well-to-do officials and merchants, all intimately connected with the
+outside world, round the proximity of Cattaro.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_6" id="image_6"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/080_1.jpg" width="500" height="315" alt="MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY" title="MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY" />
+<span class="caption">MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_7" id="image_7"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/080_2.jpg" width="500" height="350" alt="THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG" title="THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG" />
+<span class="caption">THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cetinje, with its four thousand inhabitants, is simply the residence
+of the Montenegrin Court, it is not even a trading centre, which the
+absence of the Turkish element sufficiently proclaims. It is only the
+question <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>of expense which has hitherto prevented the transference
+of the capital to another site, viz. Nik&#382;i&#263;. Cetinje was chosen as the
+capital some hundreds of years ago&mdash;1484, to be pedantically
+correct&mdash;when a defensible position was the most important factor,
+which even to-day is a point to be reckoned with.</p>
+
+<p>We will first go round "the sights."</p>
+
+<p>It possesses two historical buildings in the monastery and the
+Billard, the rest being all of quite modern origin. The monastery is a
+picturesque pile of grey stone, nestling under a lofty rock, on which
+is perched the identical round tower, or "kula," to give it its local
+name, on which the heads of Turks slain in battle were exhibited on
+spikes. It was not so very long ago that the last grim trophies of war
+graced its battlements. The monastery contains the burying vault of
+the reigning house, and is the residence of the Vladika or Archbishop
+of Montenegro. Prince Nicolas can be found any morning worshipping at
+the tombs of his ancestors by the visitor who is willing to rise at
+daybreak. Very often he is the only "faithful" present with the
+officiating priest at an hour when the sun has hardly peeped over the
+rocky ramparts of the town.</p>
+
+<p>Prince Nicolas, the lord of this warrior nation, is a man of imposing
+stature, so broad-shouldered that his height seems far less than it
+really is, walking with head erect and firm tread and clad in the rich
+national <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>costume. The stranger involuntarily doffs his cap and
+receives in return a short military salute, but accompanied by such a
+piercing glance from a pair of cold grey eyes that he wonders if he is
+not an intruder in the land. This is, however, far from the case.
+Under that austere exterior beats a warm heart and an affability of
+manner to which the lowliest of his peasants will gladly testify.
+Prince Nicolas likes to see visitors to his land, and many are the
+little acts of kindness and courtesy that the traveller receives, all
+unknown, from his hand, for he knows the coming and going of everyone
+who makes a longer stay than usual.</p>
+
+<p>Sixty years ago Prince and Bishop were united in one person, and
+though the Bishop or Vladika has to-day no temporal power, yet in
+spiritual matters he is absolute. A very kindly man is the present
+Vladika, Mitrofanban. By an odd coincidence his was practically the
+first house we visited in Montenegro, and with him we drank our last
+cup of coffee when we left many months later.</p>
+
+<p>The other building is the old palace of the Princes of Montenegro,
+which won its odd name of Billard or Biljar from the fact that a
+former Prince was so addicted to the game of billiards that the
+principal room of the palace was devoted to the game. It is now used
+for State purposes. The upper floors are occupied by the Government
+offices, and at one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> corner is the Supreme Court of Justice and
+Appeal, whose judgments are only reversible by the Prince himself.
+Further, the school and printing works are to be found within its
+quaint old red-brick walls and bastions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_8" id="image_8"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/084.jpg" width="500" height="205" alt="THE PRINCE'S PALACE" title="THE PRINCE'S PALACE" />
+<span class="caption">THE PRINCE'S PALACE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Opposite to this picturesque old building stands the modern and
+uninteresting one-storied palace of Prince Nicolas. It shows the
+simplicity of his nature in perhaps a more marked degree than anything
+else, for little or no privacy from his people is possible. He walks
+from his house down a short flight of steps into the street. The small
+courtyard at the back is surrounded by a low wall, the entrances
+having no gates.</p>
+
+<p>The recently erected palace of the Crown Prince Danilo, which stands
+on the outskirts of the town, is a somewhat more pretentious building.
+It has a large garden completely walled in, which is at any rate an
+apology for privacy and seclusion.</p>
+
+<p>To obtain a comprehensive view of the town, we climbed a small hill
+immediately above the monastery, on whose summit stands the gilded
+cupola erected to the memory of Danilo Petrovi&#263;, the Lord of Njegu&#353;i,
+founder of the present dynasty. Very pretty the simple little town
+looks from here, its red roofs giving a pleasing touch of colour to
+the otherwise severe landscape of grey rock, dazzling white streets,
+and sparsely vegetated valley.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One afternoon we visited the barracks, which are quite new, and the
+quarters of the battalion of the standing army. The barrack rooms are
+spotlessly clean, and the order and neatness unsurpassed, which,
+together with the smart drilling and superb physique of the soldiers,
+would delight the heart of the severest martinet. Everything connected
+with the military training of the Montenegrins is up to the standard
+of Continental excellence. All the officers undergo a long course of
+training, either in Russia, France, or Italy, and right well have they
+utilised this privilege. No wonder that the warlike Montenegrin drills
+as well as his Continental brother. The standing army wear uniforms,
+and at a distance remind one of our own troops, with their
+tight-fitting, short red jackets and tiny caps.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="image_9" id="image_9"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/087.jpg" width="600" height="335" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF THE CETINJE" title="GENERAL VIEW OF THE CETINJE" /><br  />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em; ">Monastery </span><span style="margin-left: 6em; ">Billard </span><span style="margin-left: 10em; ">Prince's Palace</span><br  /><br />
+<span class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF THE CETINJE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Other conspicuous buildings are the theatre, where performances are
+given in the winter in the Serb language and where Prince Nicolas'
+famous drama, <i>The Empress of the Balkans</i>, was first performed; the
+house of the Austro-Hungarian Minister, which is the best in
+Cetinje,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and the hospital. It is the only hospital in Montenegro,
+and is used almost solely for serious surgical operations. Here Prince
+Mirko, the second son of Prince Nicolas, spends much of his time, for
+his tastes run to bacteriology, and his skill with the microscope is
+acknowledged. He is also a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>musician of no mean order, and the march
+which he composed in honour of the city of Rome, and which was
+performed there under the leadership of Mascagni, will be in the
+memory of all. He has none of the tastes of his elder brother, who,
+true to the traditions of his country, is a mighty hunter, and whose
+prowess with rifle, gun, and revolver is acclaimed by the people who
+understand these gifts better.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The Russian Minister has now an equally imposing
+edifice.</p></div>
+
+<p>By far the most interesting episode of our sojourn in Cetinje was a
+visit to the prison, which we were enabled to do with our camera, by
+the kindness of the Minister of Justice. It was the first time in the
+annals of Montenegro that strangers had been allowed to take
+photographs in a prison.</p>
+
+<p>At the appointed hour we approached the plain building, surrounded by
+no wall of any kind, which does duty as the prison. It is soon to be
+done away with, and all the prisoners will be transferred to the
+central prison at Podgorica. Smiling warders welcomed us and conducted
+us to their living-room, barely furnished and with an array of
+revolvers&mdash;the property of the prisoners&mdash;hanging on the walls. A
+female prisoner prepared us coffee, and while we were sipping the
+inevitable beverage a glance through the window showed us men busily
+sweeping the courtyard of the prison.</p>
+
+<p>First of all a warder showed us the fetters&mdash;heavy, cumbersome irons,
+which are riveted to one or both <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>ankles, according to the sentence.
+But it is only in exceptional cases of aggravated crime that this
+severer sentence is meted out to the offender. Then we were conducted
+by the main and only entrance into the courtyard, two sides of which
+contain the cells of the prisoners. These gentlemen rose with alacrity
+to their feet as we entered, evidently much pleased at the honour of
+our visit. Only three men were chained, and of these one remained
+moodily seated, staring indifferently on the ground before him. He
+formed such a contrast to his fellow-prisoners' smiling faces that we
+observed him closer, noticing that his clothes were such as the
+officials and better class wear.</p>
+
+<p>"Who is he?" I asked.</p>
+
+<p>"A Government clerk convicted of embezzlement," was the answer. "Six
+weeks in chains is his sentence."</p>
+
+<p>"And what have the other criminals done?" was our next query.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, they have mostly quarrelled amongst themselves. They are not
+criminals. We have very few thieves and robbers in Montenegro. This
+youth," went on our informant, pointing to a young man with a pleasant
+face, and who grinned with joy as he noticed the attention with which
+we favoured him, "has a ten years' sentence for quarrelling."</p>
+
+<p>"But quarrelling," we repeated. "Is it punishable to <i>quarrel</i>?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Yes, too many lives are lost," was the laconic reply.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh," we exclaimed, a light breaking in upon us, "you mean murder!
+They are all murderers?"</p>
+
+<p>"We have no murderers," came the indignant response. "Our land is as
+safe from murder as any other in the world. No one kills to rob or
+steal in Montenegro. But we just quarrel amongst ourselves. We are
+hot-blooded and shoot quickly, that is all."</p>
+
+<p>P. and I looked at each other, but neither of us felt inclined to
+venture any further remarks; so we examined a dark cell with interest,
+without furniture or light, and one of six used for the worst kind of
+offender, viz. the political. They were all untenanted. We had all
+crowded inside, our warders as well, and as we emerged again into the
+strong light, I noticed the gate wide open and no visible guard.</p>
+
+<p>"You have left the gate open!" exclaimed P., as he saw it.</p>
+
+<p>Our warders laughed. Afterwards we understood.</p>
+
+<p>Then we inspected a common cell, where about a dozen men sleep. Each
+man brings his own bedding and nicknacks, with which he decorates the
+wall above his bed and makes the place as much like home as possible.
+Loss of liberty is the only real punishment, and even that is not
+carried to an excess. The Prince has said that the restraint that they
+suffer is enough, and thus the prisoners have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>comparatively free
+intercourse with the outside world, plenty to eat, and on festivals
+wine and even spirits and a dance with their friends outside. This
+latter scene we witnessed some time afterwards on another visit to
+Cetinje. The only real severity is the chains, but these sturdy
+mountaineers soon accustom themselves to these thirty-pound trinkets,
+and when photographed take good care to arrange them tastefully and
+prominently. When we lined them up for a picture, we demanded a front
+place for the chained men, to their intense delight and the chagrin of
+the others who cast envious glances at their more favoured brethren.
+No doubt in that moment the unchained men wished they had gone just a
+little further in their "quarrel."</p>
+
+<p>After a pleasant half-hour with these quarrelsome gentlemen, we went
+round to the ladies who occupy a wing of the prison, with all windows
+and doors facing outwards on to the open ground. Again no fence or
+wall marked a limit to their prison, and they walk in and out of their
+cells at leisure. However, there is a boundary marked out by posts and
+trees, beyond which they may not go. As we appeared they were sitting
+about, singly and in groups, knitting peacefully in the warm sunshine.
+We again inspected their quarters, and learnt that the odd score of
+women represented the total crime of the land.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_10" id="image_10"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/093.jpg" width="500" height="353" alt="THE FEMALE PRISONERS" title="THE FEMALE PRISONERS" />
+<span class="caption">THE FEMALE PRISONERS</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A blushing and gratified array of staid matrons and coquettish girls
+faced the camera, again only one young maiden of fifteen or sixteen
+showing any sense of shame, and she fled into her cell, only to be
+ruthlessly ordered out by a warder.</p>
+
+<p>Soon afterwards we took our leave, and as we crossed the small
+unenclosed square before the men's prison we found it crowded by the
+late inmates of the courtyard, walking merrily up and down or chatting
+with friends on the outskirts, over which neither party may step. Only
+the dismal clanking of a chain here and there proclaimed to the casual
+observer the fact that they were prisoners. Lithe, active, and
+athletic men, none of whom fear death, and guarded by four warders in
+the loosest possible fashion, yet they never attempt a dash for
+freedom up the rocky slope which reaches down to their very promenade
+ground. Flight would entail their escaping from their country
+altogether, never to return, and that no Montenegrin has ever been
+known to do. Even though they work for years in strange lands, they
+invariably return to their rugged native mountains and end their days
+in peace. And so they serve their time in patience, and go home at the
+expiry of the sentence "without a stain on their character."</p>
+
+<p>Many months afterwards we chanced to arrive in Cetinje on the occasion
+of a great feast. A stranger <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>happened to be with us, a German, and we
+were showing him the sights. Naturally we also wended our way to the
+prison, hoping to be able to give him the unique spectacle of the
+prisoners strolling freely up and down their garden. As we neared the
+square sounds of singing and music assailed our ears, and in front of
+the women's quarters a large ring was swaying to and fro in the
+national dance termed "kolo." Men and women were performing together,
+otherwise the sexes are kept severely apart, while others sat around
+in groups partaking of wine and food which their friends or relations
+had brought them, and they all sat chatting and laughing together as
+though this were their natural state of existence.</p>
+
+<p>"The prisoners," I said, pointing to the dancers.</p>
+
+<p>"Nonsense," said the German.</p>
+
+<p>"Come nearer and listen," I answered, for even I had my doubts for the
+moment; but my ear had caught the clanking of chains above the wild
+music.</p>
+
+<p>They were the prisoners right enough, and many of the men moved
+heavily and awkwardly to the slow rhythm of the motion. It is not easy
+to dance with such ornaments as are provided free and gratis by the
+paternal Prince to curb an exuberance of spirits.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="image_11" id="image_11"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/097.jpg" width="600" height="420" alt="THE PRISONERS DANCING" title="THE PRISONERS DANCING" />
+<span class="caption">THE PRISONERS DANCING</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A great trial that the photographer has to undergo, be he professional
+or a strolling amateur, is the immediate demand for the picture. The
+mysteries of dark rooms and developing are not to be lightly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
+explained, and the refusal to show the picture, for which the vain
+Montenegrins have so willingly stood, is accounted churlish. They are
+only appeased with a promise of a picture a few weeks later. Their
+names and addresses are hurriedly scribbled and handed with many
+peremptory requests for the picture to be sent as soon as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Just before we left Cetinje, on our way to Podgorica, during our first
+visit, a bowing and deeply humble individual accosted us in the hotel.
+When he had straightened himself up a bit, and we could see his face,
+we recognised one of the prison warders. After many expressions of
+sorrow for disturbing us, we gathered that on the occasion of our
+visit to the prison only three of the four warders had been present.
+The fourth&mdash;and it would appear the head warder&mdash;had arrived after our
+departure, and learning of the photographs and his omission, had made
+things a bit hot for his three favoured confr&egrave;res. Therefore would we
+of our goodness come and photograph him, and thus make life worth
+living again? Would we restore the peace and harmony of that little
+community?</p>
+
+<p>With sorrow we declined, our carriage awaited us, and the day was hot.
+Some other time, we said. And with that uncertain comfort he was
+forced to be content.</p>
+
+<p>"But," he said, "the money which you have so <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>generously given us and
+the prisoners has been expended on 'raki' (local spirits). We and the
+prisoners will pray for your souls for many nights ere we sleep."</p>
+
+<p>As we drove up the ascent from the town towards our new destination,
+we glanced back at the red-roofed little capital and noticed the low,
+grey stone building of the prison.</p>
+
+<p>"We ought to sleep well to-night," remarked P., nodding towards it.</p>
+
+<p>It is something to be prayed for, even if only by criminals of the
+quarrelsome type.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+
+<h3>The view from Bella Vista&mdash;New scenery&mdash;Promiscuous shooting&mdash;The
+market in Rijeka&mdash;The shepherds&mdash;Their flocks&mdash;Wayside
+hospitality&mdash;The plain of the Zeta&mdash;The Mora&#269;a&mdash;The Vizier bridge&mdash;Old
+war-marks&mdash;First and last impressions of Podgorica.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The drive from Cetinje to Rijeka, and from thence till the final
+descent to Podgorica, is quite as fine as any other part of
+Montenegro. For about twenty minutes after leaving Cetinje the road
+climbs and attains its greatest altitude on this tour, and at its
+highest point&mdash;only half an hour's walk from the town&mdash;possesses one
+of the most striking and beautiful views. It is rightly called "Bella
+Vista," and a shelter hut and chairs are thoughtfully provided for the
+visitor.</p>
+
+<p>A wonderful panorama meets his eye as he suddenly reaches the top. A
+fantastic sea, as it were, of hills, like the waves of a storm-tossed
+ocean, encircles him, and at his feet, green and wooded, lies a long
+fertile valley. Stretching far away into the gates of distance in its
+vast expanse, glitters the Lake of Scutari. Round a small dim spur of
+land <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>running into the lake, lies Scutari itself, which is, however,
+not visible. To the left a forbidding chain of magnificent mountains,
+dwarfing the intervening hills into insignificance, fascinate him by
+their repellent grandeur. Snow-clad, except in the height of summer,
+these mountains seem symbolical of the land they border, that savage
+and unknown Albania. A glimpse of a green valley below can just be
+caught, there lies Podgorica, our destination. At our feet a long,
+low-lying plateau ends abruptly in a wall of rock, through which the
+road vanishes, and which can be traced white and threadlike on the
+overhanging hillside. Beyond is the valley and town of Rijeka. The
+mountains to the right are the Rumija, behind whose naked comb is the
+deep blue Adria, and which we must climb to reach the port of
+Antivari. The lake is dotted at the near end with islands,
+distinguishable amongst which is a conical-shaped hill crowned by a
+fortress. That is &#381;abljak, the whilom capital of Crnagora, and home of
+its ancient rulers, the Black Prince dynasty. The whole view is like a
+map in bas-relief.</p>
+
+<p>Gone now are the barren rocks and sparsely vegetated hills of the
+Katunska, and we are now in the fertile middle zone of Mediterranean
+vegetation, which includes the valley of the Zeta right up to Nik&#353;i&#263;.</p>
+
+<p>As we careered along, we were closely followed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>by another carriage,
+in which were crowded five Montenegrins and Albanians, who were
+evidently bent on making the pace. The Montenegrins are ever reckless
+drivers; they dash round sharp corners at full gallop, with a
+precipice of several hundred feet below&mdash;and there is never sufficient
+parapet to prevent a carriage dashing over&mdash;so that one involuntarily
+leans to the inner side of the carriage with that uncomfortable
+sinking feeling which can be experienced at sea. With a shout to warn
+anybody coming up the hill, the driver cracks his whip and dashes
+round each corner with a sublime indifference to danger.</p>
+
+<p>Whenever we slackened, our pursuing carriage came up at a rush, and
+its occupants emitted wild yells and vociferated polite requests to
+pass. Off we tore again, and at last reached that point where the
+descent begins in serpentines to Rijeka. When we were tearing along a
+lower level of the road, but a few yards below our rivals, we noticed
+with momentary misgivings that they had drawn their long revolvers and
+were holding them in their hands.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly they began to fire, for no apparent reason, which habit is
+apt to be startling to a nervous traveller on his first journey. But
+our youthful driver let fly an answering shot; on inquiring he told us
+that it was to encourage the horses. Afterwards we never rode or drove
+any distance in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>the country without our revolvers, so that we too
+might help in the encouragement.</p>
+
+<p>That afternoon Rijeka presented a brilliant picture. On entering the
+town hundreds of peasants were congregated round the cattle-market on
+the outskirts, but it was on the broad street by the river bank that
+the most animated scene was to be witnessed. Every Montenegrin town
+should be seen on a market day, for then the peasants from far and
+near, in their best clothes and rifles over their shoulders, flock to
+the town with cattle and sheep and field produce. Rifles are usually
+carried when going on a long journey, particularly in the vicinity of
+Albania. This is partly as a sign of allegiance to their Prince, but
+chiefly because Montenegro stands ever before a sudden mobilisation.
+Should the soldier peasant hear the alarm, he must make his way at
+once for the rendezvous as speedily as possible, without d&eacute;tour.
+Further, hundreds of armed Albanians from the borders are always in
+their midst, as was the case to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Rijeka is a very busy little place, being the half-way village between
+the capital and Podgorica, and is still more important as the
+starting-point of the little steamer which plies twice weekly down the
+lake to Scutari. The river runs between lovely green hills rising
+straight from its banks, wooded and luxuriant, reminding one not a
+little of the Thames at Cookham.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Prince has a small palace just beyond the town, and spends the
+coldest winter months here, where he escapes the rigours of the
+climate in Cetinje. About half-an-hour's walk is the ancient fortress
+of Obod, famed in history as the site of the first printing-press
+(destroyed very soon by the Turks) in the Balkans, and indeed one of
+the first in the world, for Caxton was only a few years ahead. The
+fact speaks for the ever forward striving spirit which has animated
+Montenegro's rulers since its very foundation, and which only the
+rigours of pitiless warfare have hindered.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving the pretty little township, we had considerable difficulty
+in forcing our way through the flocks which continually blocked the
+road. All the way we ploughed through herds of cattle and stampeding
+sheep and goats, much to the disgust of their shepherds. These men,
+chiefly vicious-looking Albanians, with loosely-slung rifle, and round
+their waist a bandolier of cartridges, lend a wildness to the lonely
+road which is likely to mislead the new-comer; and should one of them
+empty his revolver light-heartedly in the air, to be answered by
+another some distance away, the impression is considerably heightened.</p>
+
+<p>The road climbs to a good height immediately and commands a fine view
+of the valley with the little river winding in and out. In winter the
+effect is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>that of a great flood, for everywhere partially submerged
+trees and bushes show above the water. But in reality it was only a
+natural course of events, for in summer the water recedes and leaves
+great fields on which crops of maize are grown, while during the
+winter or rainy months the whole district of fertile land becomes
+again submerged. This view of the Rijeka was decidedly one of the
+prettiest in the country, combining, as it does every now and then,
+glimpses of the lake and the majestic Albanian Alps.</p>
+
+<p>Always followed by our rival party, we halted at a wayside inn to
+refresh both man and beast. These inns are quaint little places. There
+is seldom any other floor than that already provided by Nature, which
+has been beaten flat.</p>
+
+<p>We called for coffee, and partook of the country's wine, to whose
+acidity we never accustomed ourselves, and entered into conversation
+with our convivial companions. One, a horse dealer, spoke excellent
+Italian, and we met him often afterwards in the course of our travels.</p>
+
+<p>When we had finished our libations, we naturally wished to have the
+bill or rather to know how much there was to pay.</p>
+
+<p>"Nothing," was the answer.</p>
+
+<p>"But we have had &mdash;&mdash;" It is not well to particularise&mdash;it was a
+thirsty day.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"There is nothing to pay," the woman reiterated.</p>
+
+<p>The other party had guiltily slipped out of the room and climbed into
+their carriage, and our driver became impatient to maintain the lead.
+With mixed feelings we followed him out, and in another second were
+off again at a gallop.</p>
+
+<p>It was always like that in Montenegro. We have gone into an inn or
+caf&eacute; and drunk a liqueur (a polite name for the fiery but wholesome
+local spirit), when a fresh glass will be silently placed before us.
+We have waved it away.</p>
+
+<p>"Not ordered it," we would say.</p>
+
+<p>"That man has," answers the boy, and points at a smiling Montenegrin
+on the other side of the room. Sometimes, and very often too, other
+guests follow suit, and the result is trying. We gave up visits to
+caf&eacute;s afterwards, except when we were on pleasure bent and had an hour
+to spare. Hospitable, reckless, poverty-stricken Montenegrins&mdash;one can
+travel far before another such a race can be found.</p>
+
+<p>The last two hours of the drive are uninteresting, chiefly because
+eight hours in a carriage is trying. Podgorica comes in sight long
+before it is reached, in the form of a cluster of trees on a grassy
+but dead-level plain, out of which two minarets show their graceful
+spires. The background is imposing, lowering Albanian mountains rise
+abruptly to their lofty heights from the level of the plain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>For an hour we drove along the plain, and passed a solitary building
+situated on a slight eminence. It was Kru&#353;evac, one of the Prince's
+country palaces, or, to be more correct, Prince Mirko's palace, as
+"Voivoda" or Duke of the Zeta, which ancient and historical title is
+his. Then for some distance we skirted the Mora&#269;a, driving in an
+opposite direction to Podgorica till we came to the "Vizier" bridge,
+over which we crossed and retraced our way to the town.</p>
+
+<p>The River Mora&#269;a is a large mountain torrent, into which the Zeta
+flows only a short distance away from the town. It rushes over great
+boulders, forming here and there formidable rapids, between two deep
+banks, which, without any warning, break off suddenly from the flat
+and form precipitous sides fully two hundred feet deep. Two or three
+hundred yards away, no gap or break in the plain is observable.
+Sometimes the river swells almost to the top of its banks, and then
+the effect must be terrible. There is a ford near Podgorica, which the
+peasants use to avoid the long d&eacute;tour by the bridge, but woe to the
+man who makes a false step. Three women, carrying loads of wood, lost
+their footing during our stay, and were drowned. In its waters we swam
+every evening, and even in midsummer, when the river is low, the
+strength of the current required an expert and powerful swimmer to
+breast it, and it was invariably very cold.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_12" id="image_12"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/109.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="THE VIZIER BRIDGE" title="THE VIZIER BRIDGE" />
+<span class="caption">THE VIZIER BRIDGE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The bridge, built by an old Turkish Vizier many, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>many years ago, is
+most picturesque, and completely in keeping with the rocky banks and
+the foam-flecked, emerald-green waters rushing beneath. From this
+bridge a man once sprang into the depths below, to show that he was
+not intoxicated. As a matter of fact he was, but he emerged dripping a
+hundred yards lower down, unhurt and at least in his right mind.</p>
+
+<p>There used to be a deep indentation in a stone of the bridge
+parapet&mdash;during our stay in the country it has been plastered
+up&mdash;which credulous Montenegrins relate to be the cut of a Turkish
+horseman pursuing a fleeing Montenegrin. The story goes that the Turk
+severed the Montenegrin's head from his body, and so violent was the
+stroke that he cut into the stone wall as well.</p>
+
+<p>Again, just before the town, two slabs, standing exactly thirty paces
+apart, mark a similar episode, and the headless man is said to have
+run that distance before falling. This legend&mdash;which, furthermore, has
+many eye-witnesses still living in the town who swear to the truth&mdash;is
+more capable of belief if one takes into consideration the flight of a
+decapitated fowl in any of our poultry yards.</p>
+
+<p>The road entering Podgorica is very similar in appearance to that
+which leads into Cetinje, only the first impressions are considerably
+wilder and more uncivilised than that of the capital. Hundreds of
+Turks and Albanians are smoking their evening <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>"tchibouque" in the
+streets, and scowl in no friendly manner at the stranger. Some of
+them, namely, the merchant class, are, however, excellent people,
+travelled and educated, as we found out afterwards. The Albanian and
+Turk are the enterprising merchants of Montenegro, and improve on
+acquaintance, which is sometimes necessary.</p>
+
+<p>We had a lonely, solitary feeling as we drove through the crowd of
+loiterers, and were glad to descend at a presentable-looking hostelry.
+How often first impressions are wrong we proved to the full in this
+instance.</p>
+
+<p>Podgorica saw more of us than any other town during our stay, for we
+made it afterwards our headquarters. It would be difficult to forget
+that mountain-bounded valley and the town with its bustling streets of
+picturesque humanity. And then those sunsets! The peaks towering
+behind bathed in crimson, and the intervening hills rising one above
+the other to the furthermost summits like a giant staircase, rich in a
+mysterious purple. As we walked back from our evening swim, over the
+short, springing grass, that scene at sunset never abated its charms
+one whit. And we were always glad on entering the town that no one
+wore plain, ugly European clothes but ourselves. The national
+costumes, so full of colour, blended harmoniously with our feelings,
+and have left behind them an indelible picture.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="image_13" id="image_13"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/114.jpg" width="600" height="349" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA" title="GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA" />
+<span class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+
+<h3>Podgorica&mdash;Its central position&mdash;Our headquarters&mdash;Easter in
+Montenegro&mdash;Our experience of it&mdash;We view the town&mdash;The prison and its
+inmates&mdash;Christian and Mahometan friction&mdash;The modern town&mdash;The market
+and the armed buyers&mdash;The Black Earth&mdash;Easter customs&mdash;Montenegrin
+methods of doing business.</h3>
+
+
+<p>If it were not for the dangerous proximity of the Albanian border,
+Podgorica would have been made the capital of Montenegro. It is
+favourably situated for a trade centre, and, owing to this fact, has
+naturally gathered a large population (the largest in Montenegro),
+approaching ten thousand. Lying on a rich and fertile plain, within
+easy reach of the Lake of Scutari, and connected by good roads with
+Cetinje and Nik&#353;i&#263;, it is within market distance, so to speak, of
+Kola&#353;in and Andrijevica. From these districts, and from the Albanian
+borders, the people flock in crowds, and the Podgorican market is by
+far the most important in the country. But&mdash;and it is a big "but"&mdash;in
+this case the Albanian frontier is only an hour's walk away, and it
+would never do to risk the persons of the Royal Family and the
+Ministers in a sudden Albanian raid, and troubles and disturbances are
+of everyday occurrence.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We made Podgorica our headquarters during our sojourn in the land of
+the Black Mountain mainly for its central position, but also for the
+opportunity afforded us there for studying Montenegrin life.</p>
+
+<p>It would be difficult to forget our first visit to the town. It was
+Easter Sunday evening when we arrived at the Hotel Europa, and after
+seeing our luggage carried in, started out on a tour of inspection,
+and also to present our letter of introduction to Dr. S., the
+veterinary surgeon of Montenegro. We had not got more than fifty yards
+from the hotel when we were forced to beat a hasty and ignominious
+retreat. At Eastertide, which is one of the biggest feasts in the
+Greek Church, beggars, halt and maim, blind and tattered, pour into
+all the larger towns of the country. They come from Turkey, Albania,
+Bosnia, and Dalmatia&mdash;in fact, from everywhere within reach&mdash;and make
+a rich harvest, for the Montenegrin opens his heart, his hand, and his
+house at Easter. In our innocence we imagined this to be the normal
+state of affairs in Montenegro, and were greatly cast down.</p>
+
+<p>But our worthy host armed himself with a big stick, and we sallied
+forth again under his guidance. Even then it was no joke, and the
+house of Dr. S. came as a haven of refuge. Anyone who has been in the
+East knows what an amount of persistency and endurance the Oriental
+beggar possesses.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="image_14" id="image_14"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/118.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="THE RIBNICA" title="THE RIBNICA" />
+<span class="caption">THE RIBNICA</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We were received as old friends and welcomed to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>the Easter table,
+which was set, as in any other Montenegrin house at this season, for
+anyone and everyone who has the remotest claims of acquaintanceship.</p>
+
+<p>Several men were present, to whom we were at once introduced; amongst
+others a canny Scotchman, the only Britisher living permanently in the
+country. We were a cosmopolitan gathering. There was Dr. S., a
+Roumanian, an Austrian ornithologist, a Scotchman, our innkeeper was a
+Macedonian, and two or three Montenegrins. From that evening date many
+of the pleasant friendships which we made in Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>The next day our newly-made friends showed us Podgorica. It is divided
+into two distinct parts&mdash;the old, or Turkish town, and the new
+Montenegrin town, which dates from the conquest of 1877. The two
+halves are separated by the River Ribnica, which flows in a deep bed
+before the crumbling walls of the Turkish quarter. At one angle of the
+town the Ribnica enters the Mora&#269;a, Montenegro's biggest and most
+important river.</p>
+
+<p>Most picturesque is the old Turkish quarter, still surrounded by the
+same bastions and walls which not so long ago defied the Montenegrin
+army. But the houses, as well as the walls, are fast falling to ruin;
+for at the order of the Prince the market has been removed to the
+other side, and, in comparison with the new town, there are few
+inhabitants left. The fortifications still bear witness to the fierce
+struggle <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>which took place before them, and one bastion was breached
+more successfully than ever Montenegrin cannon had done, by lightning,
+during the bombardment. Many of the older inhabitants, as well as the
+walls, show traces of the former conflict, a noseless man being no
+great curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>Not for nothing has the Montenegrin won his fame as one of the
+fiercest fighters in the world. He was never outdone in atrocities by
+his enemies. It was the rule of war (and is now, to a great extent) to
+either behead one's prisoner on the spot, or, if the day had been
+exceptionally heavy, and more heads could not be carried conveniently,
+noses were taken instead. Perhaps the phrase "to count noses"
+originated in these lands. However, it usually ended the same, for the
+noseless man would, as a rule, bleed to death; but some have lived
+through it, and can be met with anywhere in Montenegro or Albania.</p>
+
+<p>Many fierce fights took place in and about Podgorica, and the ghastly
+picture of victorious Montenegrins at the conclusion of an affray,
+sitting in groups, each with a small or large heap of heads and noses
+before him, "counting the bag," has many eye-witnesses still living.</p>
+
+<p>In the Turkish town lies the prison, soon to be the only one in
+Montenegro. A new wing is rapidly nearing completion to accommodate
+the female prisoners, who are at present incarcerated in Cetinje. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>We
+visited the director that Easter Monday morning, and were received
+unofficially in his quarters. We always had great fun with that man&mdash;a
+pompous individual filled to overflowing with the importance of his
+position, and, not unlike men similarly afflicted, most aggressively
+stupid.</p>
+
+<p>As a great favour, and after our united persuasion, he allowed us at
+last to look from a window overlooking the courtyard of the prison. As
+in Cetinje, the prisoners walk without let or hindrance in the
+spacious walled-in courts before their cell doors. Being Easter no man
+was chained, a privilege they owe to the Prince, who always releases
+the prisoners from their fetters during the great festivals; one
+wretched individual, however, we noticed more heavily manacled than
+even a murderer of the worst kind. He was, we were informed, a
+dangerous madman, though, poor devil, he looked harmless enough,
+slouching round and round the yard. The primitive custom of confining
+dangerous lunatics (for the harmless are allowed their full liberty
+outside) in the common prison is soon to be done away with. A large
+lunatic asylum is rapidly nearing completion near Danilovgrad&mdash;another
+memorial of Prince Nicolas' improvements.</p>
+
+<p>The prisoners were sleek and fat&mdash;those imprisoned for long terms or
+for life bearing witness of the good treatment which they receive at
+the hands of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>the authorities. One youngish man in particular
+attracted our attention, a merry laughing fellow whose girth had
+reached alarming proportions. He was imprisoned for life, and his
+crime, which sat so lightly upon him, had been a particularly
+atrocious and dastardly murder for plunder&mdash;a crime practically
+unknown in Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>Imprisonment is more real here than in Cetinje. There is none of that
+delightful promenading up and down before the prison walls, hours
+pleasantly whiled away with a friendly visitor from afar over a pint
+of wine. The only glimpse of the outside world that these prisoners
+obtain is when a few of them fetch water daily from a well outside the
+walls.</p>
+
+<p>As we gazed upon the strange scene from the window above, of prisoners
+and warders amicably chatting together, others squatting in groups
+over a harmless game, a horrible voice disturbed the serenity of the
+picture. Then at a closely barred window a face appeared, with matted
+hair and long unkempt beard. It was the face of a madman; with
+terrible curses he filled the air, and we looked inquiringly at our
+cicerone.</p>
+
+<p>"That man is a political offender," came the answer. "For fifteen
+years he has waited his trial, and now he has become hopelessly
+insane. Many years ago he endeavoured to stir up a revolution against
+the Prince, and fled to Vienna, where he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>carried on his treasonable
+propaganda. But he was enticed back, and thrown into solitary
+confinement such as those who are traitors to their Prince receive.
+For an hour every day these prisoners are allowed to walk in the yard,
+but this man from the first refused to avail himself of the privilege,
+and now he has become what you see."</p>
+
+<p>"Will he never regain his freedom?" we asked.</p>
+
+<p>A shrug of the shoulders was all that our guide vouchsafed, and with
+that awful voice ringing in our ears we were glad to turn away.</p>
+
+<p>Two mosques still exist, and are in use, for the Turkish population is
+fairly large, though owing to recent events rapidly diminishing, but
+the Prince does everything in his power to cultivate a friendly
+feeling with the Mahometans. His country is the asylum for the
+persecuted Turk as well as the fugitive from justice, and, if his
+crime is political, he will be warmly welcomed.</p>
+
+<p>But, Woman again has upset the best of intentions, and within a year
+four elopements of Turkish girls from their homes with Montenegrins
+have taken place in Podgorica. These girls have been baptised and
+married to their Christian lovers. A worse insult to the Mahometan
+faith does not exist. But of this more anon.</p>
+
+<p>The modern town is painfully plain and uninteresting. Montenegrins
+have no knowledge or <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>love of architecture. Each house is built
+solidly of stone, square and undecorated. Even the palaces of the
+Royal Family are of puritanical simplicity externally.</p>
+
+<p>There are the law courts, post and telegraph offices, and
+police-station all in one, a school, and a market-place, with a very
+ugly memorial to the fallen Montenegrins in the last war. Otherwise,
+the town is laid out with broad streets, all planted with trees,
+exactly like a South African township.</p>
+
+<p>Building plots are free, the only obligation to the owner being that
+he must run up the outside walls of the house at once. The roof and
+internal work can be completed at leisure. A large part of the town
+consists of mere shells of houses, the owners waiting for the means of
+completion.</p>
+
+<p>Some little distance from the town, across the Mora&#269;a, is the Prince's
+palace of Kru&#353;evac, which he occasionally visits. It stands quite
+alone on a slight eminence.</p>
+
+<p>The view round Podgorica is one of the most fascinating features of
+the place. It is one of those perfect views which never tire, and
+always present some new beauty, and the armed rough men in their
+brightly coloured and novel costumes are in complete unison with the
+picture. These national costumes seem so absolutely fitting to
+Montenegro that the otherwise plain and uninteresting buildings <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>of
+the town are turned merely into a background for the ever-moving
+stream of colour. The Turkish bazaars with their gaudy wares hung out
+into the street, the red-jacketed Montenegrin, the Turk in pure white,
+the Scutarines in their distinct and original costume, and the
+Albanians who flock in hundreds to the market in coarse white serge,
+heavily bordered with black braiding, rifles over their shoulders and
+a bandolier round their waists, make a never-ending picture. We never
+wearied of wandering about the streets on market days. Then the town
+is filled to overflowing with a multi-coloured crowd, and every man
+from a distance brings his rifle.</p>
+
+<p>How odd it looked at first to see an Albanian with perhaps a
+shilling's-worth of field produce spread out before him, and at his
+side a rifle loaded and cocked; or, again, a Montenegrin boy of
+perhaps fourteen, with his rifle across his knee! To keep order in
+this formidably armed crowd of men, many animated with the fiercest
+racial and religious hatred of each other, are some dozen Montenegrin
+gendarmes, armed, as is every Montenegrin, with but a heavy revolver.</p>
+
+<p>Deadly enemies meet on the market-place, men standing in blood feud
+with one another, and speak, often expressing a fervent prayer soon to
+be able to put a bullet into the other at the first opportunity,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>but&mdash;outside the town. Podgorica is mutually held as neutral
+territory, and is very rarely violated. This is strange where men fear
+not death.</p>
+
+<p>But, outside, perhaps but half an hour from the outskirts of the town,
+these men will meet and shoot and kill; for murder, or sudden death,
+to use their euphemistic way of looking at matters, is by no means
+uncommon.</p>
+
+<p>There is a great tract of land about an hour's ride from Podgorica
+characteristically called the "Crna Zemlja" or Black Earth. It is
+neutral, lying between Montenegro and Albania, and the man who sets
+his foot on it carries his life in his hands. Men who know, say that
+every inch is soaked in blood. It is overlooked by some small hills
+from Albania, and is covered with long pampas grass, affording good
+cover for a man, and they shoot there for love of killing.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to Eastertide.</p>
+
+<p>It is a good time to visit Montenegro for first impressions. The
+Montenegrin outdoes himself in open-handed hospitality; every house is
+open, and everyone visits his neighbour. The best chamber in the
+house, as often as not the only living-room among the poorer classes,
+is set out with all the good things the owner possesses. On the table
+stand meat, eggs, bread, wine, and spirits; and it is a grievous
+insult to leave that room without tasting, and tasting liberally, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>of
+all. This lasts three days, and it is more than enough.</p>
+
+<p>And we were particularly honoured, being Englishmen and strangers: one
+might say we were painfully honoured. What quantities we were forced
+to eat and drink! At one house, that of a poor man, who lived with his
+wife in a tiny room, we were presented with a bottle of Munich beer,
+his greatest treasure, given him once by a friend who had travelled.
+He doubtless considered it a luxury of a priceless kind, and it cut us
+to the heart to drink that man's beer. But we had to; he took no
+denial, barely tasting it himself.</p>
+
+<p>We might have stood it fairly well were it not for those eggs,
+hard-boiled Easter eggs, the shells coloured red or blue. This
+institution is a positive torture to the unfortunate digestion, which
+suffers untold torments at Eastertide.</p>
+
+<p>There is a game played with these hard-boiled eggs which reminds one
+forcibly of schooldays. Two men each select an egg, and one, holding
+his egg firmly, allows the other to endeavour to crack it, only the
+pointed ends being used.</p>
+
+<p>But this harmless if childish custom once led to a vendetta. A man
+once cracked such an enormous quantity of eggs, that in the evening he
+was challenged to show his marvellous egg, which he persistently
+refused to do. This led to words and words <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>to revolvers, and the man
+was shot. Then the egg was found to be a clever imitation in stone.</p>
+
+<p>Though Podgorica is the trading centre of Montenegro, business is not
+carried on in the same brisk way as in other lands.</p>
+
+<p>We once wished to send a parcel of feathers home, and went accordingly
+to the post office. It was towards evening then, and we were informed
+that the postmaster was "not at home," and were asked to come next
+day. The following morning we again visited the post office, when the
+contents were carefully noted, and long lists filled out which took
+roughly about half an hour; at the end of which time a head was thrust
+out of the window, asking us to call in about an hour and pay. This
+was because no post-office clerk is allowed to receive money; he is
+strangely enough not always honest, and the postmaster was again out.
+At the end of the hour we returned and paid.</p>
+
+<p>Another time I tendered a gulden in payment of a telegram, and had to
+wait a quarter of an hour while a boy was sent into the town to obtain
+change.</p>
+
+<p>In matters of business it is well to possess one's soul in patience. A
+more unbusinesslike set of people is hard to be found, yet in driving
+a bargain they are remarkably shrewd, to put it kindly.</p>
+
+<p>Even in such trivial matters as purchasing a hen <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>no indecent hurry is
+shown. Such a transaction may take days. For instance, you wish to buy
+a hen, and signify the same to a man, and he will say&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I have a hen which I can sell thee, but it will break my heart. Such
+a hen, and such eggs! I feel I cannot part with her."</p>
+
+<p>"Very well," you say; "don't make yourself miserable; I'll buy one
+somewhere else."</p>
+
+<p>"But give me till to-morrow. It is too sudden."</p>
+
+<p>And he goes away. If you are not in a hurry, it does not matter and
+you wait. It is amusing.</p>
+
+<p>Next day he will come again and say that he has another hen nearly as
+good as the first, but, as he loves you and respects you, he will part
+with his beloved hen at a consideration, and names a price far beyond
+its worth. You refuse, and state your price for the <i>good</i> hen, the
+ordinary market price, which he indignantly refuses and departs. In a
+few hours he will come again, bringing a hen which, almost with tears,
+he tells you is <i>the</i> hen&mdash;his beloved hen.</p>
+
+<p>"Take her," he says, "as a present."</p>
+
+<p>Whereupon you press upon him the market price, which of course he
+takes, and the matter is finished.</p>
+
+<p>Such little episodes are trying at first. The Montenegrin loves
+money&mdash;it is his curse, or rather the curse of every country on the
+brink of civilisation&mdash;but he also loves to play the gentleman, who
+hates sordid money transactions. He will often <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>make you a present and
+afterwards send in an extortionate bill.</p>
+
+<p>But, usually, you make him a monetary present <i>at once</i>, which he
+takes with thanks, at your own price.</p>
+
+<p>If it were not for money, what an ideal race the Montenegrins would
+be! But then that is the same with a good many people.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+
+<h3>Medun&mdash;Voivoda Marko&mdash;His life and heroism&mdash;His part in Montenegrin
+history&mdash;Our ride to Medun&mdash;His widow&mdash;We visit his grave&mdash;The death
+dirge&mdash;Montenegrin customs at death&mdash;Target practice&mdash;Our critics&mdash;The
+hermit of Daibabe&mdash;We visit Spu&#382;&mdash;A typical country inn and a
+meal&mdash;The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare&mdash;Dioclea.</h3>
+
+
+<p>During our repeated sojourns in Podgorica we made several excursions
+to places of interest in the neighbourhood, chief amongst which was a
+visit to Medun, Voivoda Marko Drekalovi&#263;'s grave.</p>
+
+<p>Medun lies in the heart of the mountains, about four hours' ride from
+Podgorica, and is the capital (if one can apply such a high-sounding
+name to a ruined fortress and two or three houses) of the Ku&#263;. The Ku&#263;
+is a large province inhabited by one of the most warlike tribes of
+Montenegro, and only recently came under its rule, though their
+sympathies were never with their Turkish rulers. The fact that it
+borders on Albania is significant, and accounts for its fighting
+qualities.</p>
+
+<p>Voivoda Marko was largely instrumental in bringing about the last war
+with Turkey, which was so successful to Montenegro, when the Ku&#263;,
+Podgorica, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>Nik&#353;i&#263;, the entire provinces of East Montenegro, the Brda,
+and the sea-coast from Antivari to Dulcigno were won and confirmed to
+Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>The famous battle of Fundina was won by Marko and his tribe alone
+against an overwhelming Turkish army before war had been officially
+declared with Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning life as a shepherd boy, Marko ended his days as Voivoda (or
+Duke), and his name is famed in many a song and beloved by the
+Montenegrins as one of their greatest heroes. Many were the stories of
+his reckless bravery, which one of his relations told us. Before he
+had reached the age of twenty he had killed many Turks in single
+encounter, and was in consequence outlawed. He lived for some years in
+the mountain fastnesses of his land, and together with a handful of
+adventurers, who had cast in their lot with his, made descent after
+descent on any bands of Turkish soldiers that happened to pass through
+his domain. His fame soon reached the ears of Prince Nicolas, who sent
+for him and placed him for some years in his bodyguard&mdash;that <i>corps
+d'&eacute;lite</i> of the Montenegrins.</p>
+
+<p>At the age of twenty-five he returned home and harassed the Turks to
+such an extent that he could not show himself openly by daylight. Like
+another and more famous outlaw in the days of the kings of Israel, all
+those that were bitter of soul <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>came down unto him, and he became
+captain over them. By night he descended upon the Turks wherever he
+could find them, and made great slaughter among them. The Governor of
+Podgorica, then Turkish, Yussuf Mu&#269;i&#269; by name, offered a large sum of
+money for his head, but no one could be found willing to meet that
+terrible man whom legend and story had endowed with supernatural
+powers. Finally, a criminal consented to attempt the deed on the
+promise of his liberty, and this led to one of the most incredible
+episodes in Marko's life. The criminal lay in wait for him on a lonely
+part of the road near Rijeka, and as Marko was passing along he
+stepped suddenly on to the road pistol in hand. Marko in no way
+attempted defence, but simply transfixed the man with a glance. The
+wretched man in an ecstasy of terror shot himself, so penetrating was
+the glance which the Voivoda had given him. So runs the story. Suffice
+it to remark that Marko arrived safe and sound the same evening in
+Cetinje, and a dead criminal was found on the next day by the
+roadside. Now Yussuf, the Governor, was himself a soldier of some
+repute, and when he heard of the failure of his messenger he
+boastfully expressed a desire to meet the celebrated Marko in single
+combat. On this challenge being reported to him Marko rode off on a
+half-tamed steed at midday into the heart of Podgorica, and reined up
+before the Pasha's house. In fear and trembling the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>Turks hastily
+closed their bazaars and houses as that fearful horseman galloped
+through their streets. In a loud voice Marko cried&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I am here, Yussuf, to answer thy challenge. Wilt thou now come out
+and fight with me?"</p>
+
+<p>But fear filled the heart of the craven Turk, and he sent a woman to
+the window to say that he was away from home. Marko knew this to be a
+lie, and cried so that all should hear him that henceforth the
+challenge was annulled. "I do not fight with cowards," he said, and
+again galloped away unmolested.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the power that superstition had weaved around his person that
+he was commonly believed to be invulnerable, which belief was
+afterwards belied by the fact that he carried two bullets with him to
+the grave.</p>
+
+<p>After this public insult to Yussuf, it was known that he would spare
+no pains to take Marko's life, and a touching episode is told of the
+love which Marko's tribe bore to him. His people were ever ready to
+sacrifice their lives for him, and in this instance it was deemed
+necessary to remove the obnoxious Pasha. Accordingly a cousin of Marko
+journeyed to the Podgorican market with a pistol concealed in a load
+of wood. He lay in wait before Yussuf's house and shot him down as he
+emerged. The Turkish populace literally cut him to pieces&mdash;a fate
+which the devoted man well knew would befall him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This and other events led up to the attack made by the Turkish troops
+on the tribe of Ku&#263;, when, at Fundina, Marko and his small tribe smote
+the Moslems hip and thigh. The rest is a matter of history. He had
+died but a few months before our visit, and by his last wish was
+buried in the little fortress of Medun, which many years ago he had
+stormed at the head of a handful of men under circumstances of great
+bravery.</p>
+
+<p>The ride thither gave us our first taste of the mountains. Rough,
+stony paths through rocky ravines, sometimes skirting deep precipices,
+and all round the intensely wild and magnificent mountains, led us to
+the great gorge where Medun is situated. Perched on a seemingly
+inaccessible crag, stands the famous ruined fortress, and at its foot
+Marko's house.</p>
+
+<p>We were made welcome by his widow, a regal woman of middle age, and
+still strikingly handsome. Her dead husband was not only a great hero,
+but a poet and historian, and one of the most remarkable features of
+his life was that, at the age of forty, he taught himself to write,
+and made his name famous as well in the Serb literary world. He had
+always treated her as his companion, and not as the average
+Montenegrin treats a woman&mdash;as a being of inferior quality and a
+better class of servant. Marko had a wonderful character; a great
+athlete, perfect rifle-shot, and a military warrior and leader of men,
+he brought home during his campaigns over one hundred Turkish <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>heads;
+but he was also a refined gentleman, a true poet, and merciful to his
+enemies. He was a notable exception in the matter of prisoners&mdash;he
+always let them go unharmed, sometimes escorting them himself to a
+place of safety.</p>
+
+<p>Our visit gave much gratification to his widow, who was pleased that
+strangers from such a distant land should wish to visit her husband's
+grave, and she was hospitality itself.</p>
+
+<p>After a rest and food in her house, she conducted us herself up the
+steep winding path to the grave. We came abruptly upon a small plateau
+in front of a tiny chapel. The scene was striking in the extreme.
+There was the grave, with a rough pile of stones at the head, on which
+were placed the dead man's "handjar," revolver and sword, and many
+wreaths. Two lighted candles were flickering in the wind, and in a
+semicircle stood a group of rough, fully-armed mountaineers, the
+retainers of the Voivoda. It was stormy, and great gusts of wind and
+rain dashed round the rocky fortress, and in the distance a rugged
+pile of mountain peaks towered up into the descending mist.</p>
+
+<p>The widow left us, and, kneeling at the grave, quietly kissed the cold
+stones, praying for a few moments in deep silence. Not a man spoke or
+moved as we stood with bared heads and waited. Slowly rising, she came
+to us and led us into the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>chapel, a bare shell, not even furnished
+with an altar, and with the original earthen floor.</p>
+
+<p>"My beloved husband wished to be buried in here," said the widow, "but
+it was not allowed. The Prince wished him to be buried in Podgorica,
+as he was never courtier and was so beloved and honoured by his
+people&mdash;more than the Prince himself. But my husband called me to his
+side, and with his last breath made me swear to bury him in this
+chapel, or at least in front of it. And when the order came that he
+should be buried below, I swore to shoot myself on his grave, and the
+men of Ku&#263; swore to take his body up here, even if they had to fight
+every inch of the way. So it was allowed that he should be buried
+here, but we shall bury him in the chapel, for that I promised him as
+he died."</p>
+
+<p>And she took my hand solemnly in hers, illustrating her oath to the
+dying man, and I shivered in that gloomy chamber as her impassioned
+voice echoed in its arches.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly a wailing of women broke upon the utter silence which ensued,
+and nearer and nearer came that weird singing as it approached the
+summit. The women were chanting Marko's death dirge. At last, as they
+passed the little window, we went outside and saw four women,
+dishevelled and weeping, approach the grave, kneeling on one side. The
+widow left us again and knelt alone opposite.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One woman only sang at a time, a series of extempore verses telling of
+the life and deeds of the hero&mdash;his accomplishments and goodness&mdash;in
+the poetical language of this wild people.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, thou grey falcon, who was so mighty a hunter as thou?"</p>
+
+<p>"Who indeed shall now wield thy bloodstained sword?"</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, thou wolf, who is worthy to take thy place as our ruler and
+father?"</p>
+
+<p>And the others beat their breasts and tore their hair, wailing in a
+wild unison, until the singer was exhausted and then another began.</p>
+
+<p>Here and there a deep sob broke from a man, but otherwise the ring of
+men with bowed heads remained in dead silence and immovable as the
+rocks around them.</p>
+
+<p>It was one of the most impressive scenes it has been our fortune to
+witness, but we were glad when the widow rose and conducted us back to
+the house. Some letters and poems of the Voivoda were shown to us, and
+one of the letters to a friend then present in the room was read
+aloud. The great rough Montenegrin was so touched at hearing the words
+of his master and lord, that he turned away his head and sobbed. All
+this time the women ceased not with their wild lamentations, and even
+after we took our leave and started on our rough ride home in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>pouring rain, that death dirge followed us, echoing in the ravines
+and mountains.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_15" id="image_15"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/139.jpg" width="500" height="327" alt="THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN" title="THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN" />
+<span class="caption">THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Since then we have often heard the death dirge sung in Montenegro.
+Sometimes in a house in passing; again, an old woman trudging to
+market will sing the death dirge of a relation, perhaps dead many
+years. But we never heard those piercing, wailing notes without having
+the picture of Medun recalled vividly to our memory.</p>
+
+<p>When a man dies he is laid out in the sitting-room, and all the
+friends and relations are summoned. Then the men enter the room singly
+and approach the corpse. Tearing open their shirts they beat
+themselves with their fists on their naked breasts, often tearing the
+flesh with their nails, and give vent to ear-piercing wails. Each
+new-comer strives to outdo his predecessor in excesses, and horrible
+scenes ensue. But the Prince discountenances this custom, and it is
+slowly dying out, but only in the upper classes.</p>
+
+<p>We often took our rifles and went out into the country for a little
+target practice, and always succeeded in attracting a group of
+spectators from adjacent villages or huts. Towards Albania we were
+requested not to go for shooting, as the noise of rifle-shots is apt
+to mislead the surrounding villagers. Even when shooting in other
+directions, we were carefully warned not to fire rapidly, but to shoot
+slowly and deliberately, as at target practice.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Rapid firing is "the alarm," and would mobilise a brigade of infantry
+within an hour or two.</p>
+
+<p>On one occasion we were shooting at a somewhat difficult object about
+one hundred and fifty yards away. We were trying to hit it, standing,
+and had not succeeded. A group of some twenty men had collected, and
+they soon began to make facetious remarks. One offered to bring the
+target nearer. Another said he would stand target for a few shots&mdash;we
+shouldn't hit him. So we gave one or two of them our rifles and told
+them to hit it. Immediately they selected stones as rests, and lay
+down for their shot.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah," said we, "we can do that; shoot as we do, standing, and without
+a rest."</p>
+
+<p>"That," they said, "is not shooting&mdash;who shoots like that in war?"</p>
+
+<p>But we were inexorable, and needless to say they failed to hit
+anywhere near.</p>
+
+<p>The Montenegrins are good shots enough, if they can take long and
+deliberate aim, steadying their rifles on walls or rocks, but
+otherwise they are miserable marksmen.</p>
+
+<p>Quite close to Podgorica there lives a hermit, a wonderful man who has
+hewn out of the living rock a tiny chapel, a store-room, and a passage
+leading to the chapel. He has only just completed it, and we inscribed
+our names in his new book as his first visitors.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_16" id="image_16"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/144_1.jpg" width="400" height="410" alt="VOIVODA MARKO" title="VOIVODA MARKO" />
+<span class="caption">VOIVODA MARKO</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_17" id="image_17"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/144_2.jpg" width="400" height="287" alt="SIMEON POPOVI&#262; AND HIS CHAPEL" title="SIMEON POPOVI&#262; AND HIS CHAPEL" />
+<span class="caption">SIMEON POPOVI&#262; AND HIS CHAPEL</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The hermit, a priest of most refined manners and appearance, named
+Simeon Popovi&#263;, was most delighted at our visit. He spoke Russian and
+French fluently; his story is quite a little romance.</p>
+
+<p>Before he took Orders he had been a soldier, and was a rich man. It
+was while he was absent on a campaign that his wife eloped and his
+relations robbed him of all his money. He returned home to find
+himself wifeless, dishonoured, and a beggar. Then he became a priest,
+and a vision appeared to him, showing him Daibabe, where he now lives,
+commanding him to go and build a church. He refused the offer of a
+rich priorship and came to this place, possessed of no means whatever
+wherewith to commence his life's work. Unable to buy building
+materials, he began to hollow out a church from the rock, without help
+or money of any kind, beyond that given him by the pious but direly
+poor peasants of the neighbourhood. The labour must have been immense,
+but there it stands a monument to man's perseverance and faith.</p>
+
+<p>Simeon is reckoned as a saint by the peasants; they come to him from
+all parts of the country, bringing their sick, and many cures are said
+to have been effected there. He is a vegetarian, and subsists solely
+on the products of his little garden.</p>
+
+<p>Spu&#382; lies on the River Zeta, and must be reached by a bridge. It is
+always safer to dismount when <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>crossing a Montenegrin bridge, off the
+main roads. This was no exception, but the scenery was delightful.
+Rising immediately at the back of the village is a steep hill crowned
+by a mighty fortress. It was held formerly by the Turks, and the
+peasants say that it was built by them; but the architecture is
+distinctly Venetian and an exact counterpart of many fortresses in
+Dalmatia.</p>
+
+<p>It is strange, however, for there are no records that the Venetians
+ever came further inland than Scutari.</p>
+
+<p>The inn at Spu&#382;, where we dined, was as other country inns (or kr&#263;ma,
+or han, as they are locally termed from the Turkish): earthen floor, a
+bench, a few primitive stools and beds in the only reception-room. The
+table is invariably rickety, so are the stools; but a tablecloth,
+knives and forks are always mysteriously produced for guests even in
+the most out-of-the-way places.</p>
+
+<p>While our repast was being prepared we had a revolver shooting
+competition outside the door, to which the whole village flocked. One
+of the men made a very fine shot from his saddle at a tree-stump in
+the river, about two hundred and fifty yards away, and <i>hit</i> within a
+few feet. It proved the accuracy and carrying distance of the
+Montenegrin revolver.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_18" id="image_18"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/147.jpg" width="500" height="353" alt="SPU&#381;" title="SPU&#381;" />
+<span class="caption">SPU&#381;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After our meal, consisting of raw ham, eggs (oh, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>those everlasting
+eggs!), and a peculiar and nondescript kind of meat, about which we
+asked no questions, the village captain called on us and bore us off
+to his house for coffee.</p>
+
+<p>This man, a Turkish renegade, was one of the most interesting men whom
+we met. He was a marvellous talker&mdash;in fact, he never stopped during
+our visit. How the subject came up has passed my memory, but suddenly
+he rushed out of the room and brought back a handful of little medals.</p>
+
+<p>"Look," he said, "each medal represents a human life, a head. We have
+these given us for every head we bring back in war. Do you think I am
+proud of them, and there are more than fifty? No, I weep when I see
+them. When I had seized my foe by his hair preparatory to cutting off
+his head, a vision of his mother, his wife, and his sisters appeared
+before me, and I could have wept as I struck off his head. Why should
+I kill this man? I asked myself. I know him not, he has done me no
+harm, yet because it is war, arranged by princes and kings, we must
+become murderers. And why should I kill him? because others would
+misconstrue my act of mercy if I did it not, and brand me a coward,
+aye and worse, a traitor. Why should <i>I</i> make that mother childless?
+why must <i>I</i> rob that loving wife of her husband? Why <i>I</i> be the means
+of making those little children fatherless and orphans?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I confess the picture that he conjured up of solemnly and with
+streaming eyes cutting off his enemies' heads&mdash;and he had owned to
+over fifty&mdash;as he thought of destitute homes and weeping women and
+children, seemed decidedly tragi-comic; but the old man was earnest
+enough, and was quite unconscious of the grim humour of the situation.</p>
+
+<p>"Why," he went on, excitedly pacing the room, "why do not the German
+Emperor and the King of England fight out their quarrels <i>alone</i>? Why
+drag thousands of men from their homes and farms to fight <i>their</i>
+quarrels?"</p>
+
+<p>Again the idea of our King fighting a solemn duel, with perhaps
+Maxims, over a question of an island in the Pacific, with the German
+Emperor, while admiring millions looked on and applauded, caused a
+smile which we with difficulty repressed from diplomatic reasons.</p>
+
+<p>He took his scimitar now in his hand.</p>
+
+<p>"Look, too, at the generals," he said excitedly, "directing battles
+from safe places, while hundreds of innocent lives are thrown away in
+an assault which that general has ordered from his place of safety.
+Once," he went on&mdash;"I was fighting for the Turks then, and commanded a
+body of soldiers&mdash;a general came to me, saying, 'Storm that hill,' and
+I answered, 'No; thou art our leader, lead us to the assault.' And he
+refused, saying, 'How <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>can I direct the battle if I lead this
+attack&mdash;who shall take my place if I fall?' And I drew my sword"&mdash;and
+here he suited his action to his words&mdash;"and said I would kill him if
+he did not take his true position as leader of men and lead us to the
+attack&mdash;then I and my men would follow wherever he went. And the
+general, who was a brave man, led us to the assault and fell&mdash;but we
+took the hill and the battle was won."</p>
+
+<p>It was strange talk to hear from such a man, little better than a
+savage, yet unlike any of his adopted countrymen. That man in a
+civilised country would have made himself known and even celebrated.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Podgorica, at the junction of the rivers Mora&#269;a and Zeta,
+lie the remains of the once famous Dioclea or Dukla, as it is locally
+called. The town is of Roman origin, and was surrounded by a complete
+moat, which the Romans formed by digging a channel between the rivers.
+It must have been a place of immense strength in the olden days, but
+successive generations of warfare, which raged so pitilessly in this
+district, have levelled it to the ground, and to-day little or nothing
+can be seen from the adjoining roadway. On approaching there is also
+very little to be seen, here and there a wall, and small fragments of
+mosaic floors. Coins and other relics are still found in large
+quantities, and it seems a pity that excavation, which could <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>do so
+much, has been only carried on in a very halting and desultory manner.
+Legend and history relate that the famous Roman Emperor Diocletian was
+born here, and gave his name to the town. The district of Dioclea,
+which was one of the seven confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius
+to repel the attacks of the Avars, is in reality the germ of modern
+Montenegro.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+
+<h3>Achmet Uiko tells his story&mdash;Sokol Ba&#263;o, ex-Albanian chief&mdash;Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari&mdash;Our journey thither&mdash;Our frustrated
+nap&mdash;Arrival at the chapel&mdash;The island of Vranjina&mdash;The
+priest&mdash;Fishing and fishermen&mdash;Our visitors&mdash;We return to Podgorica.</h3>
+
+
+<p>One market day, walking through the streets of Podgorica, we overheard
+a strange conversation. A Montenegrin Turk was sitting on a stone,
+when two Albanians approached him. Touching his revolver, one of the
+Albanians said&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Sooner than own the whole of Montenegro, would I empty <i>this</i> into
+thy body."</p>
+
+<p>The Turk, a small man, with slightly grey hair, looked up, and said
+indifferently&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"And thy desire is mine."</p>
+
+<p>So they separated.</p>
+
+<p>Almost immediately an acquaintance joined us, and we asked him the
+meaning.</p>
+
+<p>"That man," said he, "is the famous Achmet Uiko. A terrible man, who
+has killed many men, and at the present moment there is an enormous
+sum of money on his head in Albania."</p>
+
+<p>We then went to him, and asked him to come to our hotel to-morrow, and
+to tell us the story of his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>life. He consented readily, saying that
+he would be with us at nine next morning, "if," he added
+significantly, "nothing occurred to detain him."</p>
+
+<p>It happened that evening that an Englishman arrived on a short tour
+through the country, believing firmly that everything was as safe and
+as orderly as the average stranger thinks. A Turkish girl had been
+abducted from her home shortly before, and the town was in a state of
+great excitement, as it was the second case within the last few weeks.
+A rising of the Turkish inhabitants was feared nightly, and the house
+where the girl was confined&mdash;previous to her marriage with her
+Montenegrin lover&mdash;was carefully guarded by a score of armed
+Montenegrins.</p>
+
+<p>We took the Englishman to this house, and as we were showing him the
+men with rifles around the doors and windows, we heard sounds of a
+sharp rifle fire some distance away on the border. Not long afterwards
+a Montenegrin doubled into the town with a report that heavy firing
+had been taking place at the village of Dino&#353;. Nothing further came of
+it, but our countryman went to bed with other ideas of Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>We awaited Achmet next morning, but at nine he had not arrived, and we
+began to wonder, as the hours went by, if his fate had at last
+overtaken him. But at noon he turned up, as quiet and self-possessed
+as yesterday, and excused himself in the following way. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>The Albanians
+who had expressed such murderous desires upon him yesterday at the
+market lived in Dino&#353;, and he had spent the night in emptying his
+magazine rifle repeatedly into their village.</p>
+
+<p>"To show these dogs," he concluded, "that they cannot express such
+wishes to me with impunity."</p>
+
+<p>His story, which is given shortly here, was taken down from his lips,
+but it is impossible to reproduce the man's quaint phraseology. He
+spoke in an indifferent way, and detailed all the circumstances in a
+most matter-of-fact manner and without the faintest trace of boasting.</p>
+
+<p>He was born in Podgorica, then Turkish, and at fifteen fought in his
+first battle, killing three men. At seventeen he had a fight in the
+town, and was forced to flee to Scutari, where, shortly afterwards, he
+entered the Turkish service as a gendarme. He took unto himself a
+wife, but finding her faithless, he laid a trap to catch her and her
+lover together, when he killed them both. After this Achmet returned
+to Podgorica, where he was at once seized and imprisoned for his
+original offence, but he soon broke out and fled to the Albanian
+mountains. Here he lived as a robber until things began to get too hot
+for him, and he fled to Bosnia. In Bosnia he was the guest of a Serb,
+who befriended him, and when a Turk seduced his benefactor's wife, he
+killed the Turk to show his gratitude, and again was forced to flee
+the country. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>He next turned up in Antivari, where he was promptly
+imprisoned, but he overpowered the warder, took his rifle, and again
+escaped.</p>
+
+<p>At this time the town captain of Dulcigno had been murdered, in
+revenge for a deadly insult, by a young Ku&#263;, named Jovan, and Achmet
+was sent for, on the promise of pardon if he would follow Jovan into
+Albania and kill him. This he did, bringing Jovan's head with him as
+evidence. For this he received a large reward, and the Prince of
+Montenegro, having heard of him and his deeds, sent for him, pardoning
+all his previous offences, besides giving him one hundred napoleons.</p>
+
+<p>Achmet now settled down at his present home near Podgorica, but was
+caught by the Turks and imprisoned on a false charge for four months,
+when he was able to prove an alibi.</p>
+
+<p>Achmet fought in many border fights with the Montenegrins against the
+Albanians and distinguished himself greatly. Two Albanians once
+attacked the son of a famous standard-bearer, whose life he saved,
+capturing the assailants alive and bringing them into Podgorica. For
+this act the Prince gave him an old fortress for his home, and where
+he still lives.</p>
+
+<p>Later on Jovan's brother, whom he had killed near Dulcigno, came early
+one morning to Achmet and fired at him; but Achmet caught him, and
+again brought his prisoner alive into the town, where he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>received ten
+years' imprisonment. These deeds are all the more remarkable as he
+brought his captures alive and delivered them over to justice. It is,
+firstly, not customary to take men alive; secondly, the feat is of
+extreme difficulty, for men fight to a finish in these lands.</p>
+
+<p>Achmet is known to disappear periodically for several weeks, but of
+these affairs he would say nothing. But the most striking and romantic
+episode of this marvellous man's life has yet to be told.</p>
+
+<p>Recently he was caught by his now arch enemies, the Turks, and
+imprisoned in the powerful fortress of Tusi, a few miles from
+Podgorica. Not content with putting on the usual extremely heavy
+chains, they added to their prisoner a second set of fetters. But
+friends smuggled into his possession a file, concealed in a loaf of
+bread. He filed through his chains, and the day previous to his escape
+he noticed a lot of straw bedding lying at the foot of the fortress
+walls. That night he completed the filing of the fetters, broke open
+the cell-door, and rushing through the sleeping soldiers he jumped the
+wall, landing without hurt on the pile of straw bedding below. Though
+fired at and pursued, he escaped unhurt.</p>
+
+<p>We heard many such stories, but the story of Achmet was certainly the
+best, and these men do not lie. As the man took his leave, he gave us
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>a pressing invitation to visit his fortress home in the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>"I will slaughter my best lamb," he added, as a special inducement.</p>
+
+<p>There was another highly interesting personality living in Podgorica,
+an ex-Albanian chief and refugee from his country, named Sokol Ba&#269;o.
+This fine old fellow, standing well over six feet, looked fifty
+instead of his sixty-five years, and had an equally interesting past.
+As a youth he had fought in many battles for the Turks, and was
+eventually selected with five other young men of high standing for the
+personal bodyguard of the Sultan. While on leave, which he was
+spending in his Albanian home, the order came for the disarming of the
+whole of Albania. Sokol's tribe refused, as did most of these warlike
+clans, though Sokol advised obedience. But his clan remained obdurate,
+and he was placed in the awkward predicament of being either
+considered a traitor by his countrymen or by his Sovereign. Sokol
+threw in his lot with his clan, and led them in battle against a
+Turkish force; but though he fought like a lion, the clan were
+defeated, and he was forced to fly. For many years Sokol lived in the
+Albanian mountains, half robber and wholly patriot; but the pursuit
+became too keen, and he came to Podgorica, where he entered the
+service of Prince Nicolas. His new Prince he serves loyally, and is
+highly esteemed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>in Montenegro, where he will doubtless end his
+days.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_19" id="image_19"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/159_1.jpg" width="400" height="285" alt="ACHMET UIKO" title="ACHMET UIKO" />
+<span class="caption">ACHMET UIKO</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_20" id="image_20"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/159_2.jpg" width="400" height="588" alt="SOKOL BA&#268;O" title="SOKOL BA&#268;O" />
+<span class="caption">SOKOL BA&#268;O</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>While still comparatively new to the country, we once went for a
+week's shooting to the Lake of Scutari. Water-fowl abound there in
+marvellous numbers, consisting chiefly of crane, heron, thousands of
+duck, and a fair number of pelicans.</p>
+
+<p>We had selected the island of Vranjina for our headquarters, known in
+history as the site of a famous treaty signed there between the
+Montenegrins and Venetians in the first half of the fifteenth century.
+It lies at the north or Montenegrin end of the lake.</p>
+
+<p>As we were given to understand that we could drive to the lake, or at
+least to the River Mora&#269;a, and thence take boat to the island, we
+loaded our carriage with ample luggage. With our guide's usual and
+admirable mismanagement, we were landed after a two hours' drive on
+the banks of the Mora&#269;a, unable to get further without the carriage
+toppling down a steep bank into the rapid river. The driver
+unceremoniously bundled our traps on to the ground and drove happily
+off. The only person in sight was a diminutive girl, whom the guide
+promptly impressed into our service, and an appalling load was heaped
+upon her. Then a small boy appeared, and so we were able to make
+another start. The day was exceedingly hot, but we got some shooting
+to make up for it. We crossed the river in a crazy <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>ferry, found some
+men, and later on a boat, and reached the famous village of &#381;abljak
+about one o'clock. The village is still overlooked by a formidable
+fortress, but in the rude collection of huts it was hard to see the
+ancient capital of Montenegro, the home of the famous Black Prince
+dynasty.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most wretched inns that it was our lot to find in
+Montenegro received us and our baggage. The village of course turned
+out to inspect us, and watched us eat our meal with interest. It was
+of the usual kind, consisting of eggs, raw ham, eggs, and dessert of
+<i>more</i> hard-boiled eggs, washed down with a remarkably sour wine.</p>
+
+<p>After this repast we retired for a short nap into the room beyond. P.
+was tired and got on one bed, but I, displaying more caution, lifted
+the pillow before I trusted myself to the arms of Morpheus. My
+fore-sight was rewarded better than I deserved, and I had P. off his
+bed in the twinkling of an eye. As an explanation which his
+threatening attitude demanded at once, I silently lifted his pillow.
+It likewise teemed with life, and we postponed our post-prandial
+slumbers till a more fitting occasion.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the village the Mora&#269;a flowed past, now a formidable
+and swiftly running river. We were amused to see several oxen driven
+into it, and swim serenely to the opposite bank.</p>
+
+<p>Only one small canoe could be found for us, which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>would ordinarily
+hold one man besides the two paddlers, with comfort. Into it were
+crowded three men and a quantity of baggage. In addition, it leaked,
+and periodically we were turned out on to a muddy and marshy bank
+while the canoe was bailed out.</p>
+
+<p>This end of the lake is very curious, a series of natural canals run
+in all directions through vast swamps which only afford foothold in
+the height of summer. The thrifty peasants utilise the dry season to
+plant fields of maize, for the scorching sun dries these swamps in a
+very short space of time. In the winter or early spring, they are
+nearly or quite under water. As the lake is reached, small islands of
+dense willow trees grow out of the water, and in these islands are
+vast colonies of waterfowl. The effect is decidedly pretty, but very
+irritating to the sportsman, as the birds hide in the centre, and it
+is nearly impossible to force one's way in, even by wading.</p>
+
+<p>We reached our destination, a little chapel with a house for the
+priest adjoining it, locally termed a "manastir," built on a rather
+high and conical hill on the south end of the island of Vranjina. The
+view from the chapel, as we afterwards found, was superb. The whole
+lake spreads out in its vast expanse. Scutari, or rather the hill
+behind which it lies, can be seen dimly in the distance. To the right,
+the Lov&#263;en and the Rumija rear their lofty heads, and divide the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>lake
+from the Adria beyond. Away to the left the rugged snow-clad Albanian
+Alps stretch as far as the eye can see, piling themselves up in a wild
+and grand confusion. Several green submerged willow islands lay at our
+feet, round which crowds of snow-white cranes were circling. Such was
+our view as we reached the plateau in front of the chapel that
+evening, tired, hungry, and irritated, but still appreciative.</p>
+
+<p>The priest, or "pop," clad in the national costume, as indeed are all
+the country clergy, and only distinguishable from his wild-looking
+parishioners by his uncut hair and beard (the Greek Church do not
+allow their ministers to cut their hair or beards), met us in a
+friendly manner, but absolutely refused to take us in at first. He
+said he had absolutely nothing in the house but a little goat's
+cheese, and no beds. However, we were desperate; to go to the village
+meant another hour's cramp in the canoe, and perhaps no better
+accommodation than here. Here we would stay, and starve.</p>
+
+<p>By dint of much persuasion, the priest produced a mattress, and a man
+was sent down to the village to procure anything that he could find,
+and so we stayed in the monastery a week, and really enjoyed
+ourselves. We used to go out shooting at daybreak in canoes with two
+paddles apiece, and again in the evening, for the heat was
+overpowering about midday.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_21" id="image_21"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/165_1.jpg" width="500" height="360" alt="THE POP OF VRANJINA" title="THE POP OF VRANJINA" />
+<span class="caption">THE POP OF VRANJINA</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_22" id="image_22"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/165_2.jpg" width="400" height="564" alt="AN ALBANIAN GIRL" title="AN ALBANIAN GIRL" />
+<span class="caption">AN ALBANIAN GIRL</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The method of fishing here is distinctly interesting. A large number
+are required to work the net, but they make enormous hauls. The
+procedure is as follows: One large boat is anchored near the shore and
+made fast to trees, and a huge net is taken out and spread in a
+circle, the ends being kept in the stationary boat. Two men, naked,
+stand a few feet from the boat in the water, keeping the sides of the
+net down and preventing the escape of fish as the circle is gradually
+narrowed by the men in the boat slowly pulling it in. The last bit
+requires their united efforts, for it is full of fish, some of
+considerable size. At the conclusion of the "haul" one of the men
+chose two of the largest fish and threw them into my canoe as a
+present; as thanks I lent my tobacco-tin, which they gratefully
+emptied.</p>
+
+<p>Montenegrins carry tobacco in a tin and roll their own cigarettes; no
+other form of smoking is known amongst them, except the tchibouque by
+some of the older men, a relic of Turkish times. The tobacco is
+excellent, being often equal to the best Turkish, and ridiculously
+cheap.</p>
+
+<p>We owe these worthy fisherfolk thanks for having given us one of the
+finest moonlight effects that it has ever been our lot to witness. We
+were returning home late one evening in our canoes, and as we rounded
+a corner of the island we came suddenly on their encampment. The men
+in their ragged but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>artistic costumes were sitting round numerous
+camp-fires cooking their evening meal on the bank, which sloped gently
+upwards, an old ruined fortress or "kula" forming a background.</p>
+
+<p>As we gazed the moon came slowly over the brow of the intervening
+hill, illuminating the scene with its soft and silvery radiance,
+blending fantastically with the ruddy flames of the fires.
+Cooking-pots steamed and bubbled, and one group of men broke into an
+old Montenegrin fighting song, the water of the vast lake sparkled and
+danced in the distance, and we felt that only we and this rough group
+of fishermen were alive in the world.</p>
+
+<p>It was an idyllic life that we led during our stay at Vranjina, though
+every comfort known to civilisation was lacking. We lived as did the
+hardy fishermen of the island, and a hard life it proved to be. The
+heat, however, was something tremendous, quite precluding any exertion
+from ten in the morning till the late afternoon. We had even in the
+early morning to use the greatest care to keep our necks and arms
+covered from the scorching rays of the sun, for bad blisters and burns
+were the sure reward of carelessness. The concussion of rapid shooting
+combined with the heat often brought on headaches so violent that to
+fire another cartridge was exquisite torture. One thing we did not
+suffer from, and that was loneliness.</p>
+
+<p>The news of our visit spread to all the neighbour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>ing villages, and we
+had a constant stream of visitors. Our swim, which we took after our
+early morning shoot in a delightfully cool spot, where a spring
+bubbled into the lake, was invariably witnessed by a group of
+fishermen, and very much amused they were too over our hair-brushes,
+soap, and other toilet articles.</p>
+
+<p>They sometimes ascribed powers of healing to us, and were evidently
+quite distressed when we endeavoured to impress upon them our entire
+ignorance of medicine. Once a man insisted on baring his leg and
+showing me a horrible wound which would not heal.</p>
+
+<p>Another time the school was marched out from the village of Vranjina,
+probably to have an object-lesson in geography. Doubtless the boys,
+after having seen real live Englishmen, would henceforth display an
+intelligent interest in the position of the British Isles. They came
+and spent a morning with us, and the young teacher, who spoke good
+Italian, asked us many questions, such as a young child asks his
+father, and equally difficult at times to answer.</p>
+
+<p>Our messing arrangements were of the simplest, raw ham and eggs
+forming the staple food. We bought a lamb once, but it only lasted one
+meal, as everyone developed an extraordinary appetite&mdash;the parson,
+Lazo our servant, and all the men in the vicinity.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When we left we had the blessing of our worthy priest and fervent
+invitations to return again soon from some of the fishermen. One of
+the men took a great fancy to us, urging us to come to his house in
+Vranjina then and there, and "we would," he said, "drink gallons of
+wine," going on next day. "At any rate," he said, as we gently
+refused, "let us have a big drink together when ye come again."</p>
+
+<p>We arranged our return to Podgorica ourselves, and got back within
+five hours, shooting a fine pelican on the way, which was the last
+shot that we fired on the Lake of Scutari.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+
+<h3>Stephan our servant&mdash;Virpazar&mdash;The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass&mdash;Antivari and Prstan&mdash;The beauty of the bay&mdash;We are delayed by
+contrary winds&mdash;We are rowed to Dulcigno&mdash;We make the acquaintance of
+Marko Ivankovi&#263;&mdash;A story concerning him&mdash;We shoot together&mdash;An episode
+on a lake&mdash;Vaccination&mdash;The Turkish inhabitants.</h3>
+
+
+<p>For our journey to the sea-coast towns of Antivari (Bar) and Dulcigno
+(Ulcinj) we deemed it advisable to take a servant with us, and our
+choice fell on Stephan, a Hungarian by birth, but a ten years' sojourn
+in the Land of the Black Mountain had completely Montenegrinised him,
+if we may coin a word. As he was our constant companion for several
+months, it would be well to describe him.</p>
+
+<p>Every statement that Stephan made had to be liberally discounted&mdash;this
+we found out afterwards&mdash;for he was a born liar, and not a skilful one
+at that. He had one marvellous story about a large sum of money lying
+in his name in a bank in Hungary, which he must fetch in person, but
+he could never save enough money to make the journey. This was an
+obvious falsehood. But the story of his coming to Montenegro seemed
+true. He was a sergeant of an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>Austrian infantry regiment, and had
+attempted to cut down his superior officer in a fit of rage, severing
+his ear with a sabre. He fled to the Montenegrin border, which was
+quite close to his garrison, and has been in Montenegro ever since,
+wearing the national costume and married to a girl of the country.
+Stephan was certainly a most violent-tempered man, but he was often
+entertaining, full of fun, a decent cook, and could sing a host of odd
+songs and snatches picked up in Austrian garrison towns. Otherwise he
+was a thorough Montenegrin, though he considered himself vastly their
+superior. His temper at other times would be vile, but the mastery
+over himself was really great, and after a sharp remonstrance he could
+change his mood completely.</p>
+
+<p>Taking the omnibus of the Anglo-Montenegrin Trading Company, rudely
+dubbed "the Hearse," to Plavnica, the station for Podgorica on the
+Lake of Scutari, we transferred our luggage to a huge barge, or
+"londra," and were slowly punted out on to the lake through one of
+those extraordinary canals which intersect the marshy land at this end
+of the lake. There the good ship <i>Danitza</i>, owned by the same company,
+awaited us, and conveyed us to Virpazar, past our island of Vranjina
+and its little chapel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_23" id="image_23"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/173.jpg" width="500" height="359" alt="VIRPAZAR" title="VIRPAZAR" />
+<span class="caption">VIRPAZAR</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Virpazar is the scene of the Montenegrin Vespers in 1702, and one of
+the richest villages in the district. Prettily situated up a long
+estuary of the lake, it is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>nothing but a collection of about twenty
+small houses, with arched ground floors, the people living on the
+first floor. The village is frequently flooded in the winter.</p>
+
+<p>The importance of this village lies in the fact that it is the
+connecting link&mdash;and a very bad one at that&mdash;between the rest of
+Montenegro and the sea. But no road connects it with the mainland, and
+travellers from Cetinje or Podgorica must take the steamer from either
+Rijeka or Plavnica to Virpazar, and from thence a good road leads over
+the Sutormann Pass to Antivari. A road which is being built between
+Virpazar and Rijeka will supply a long-felt want. At present, when the
+Prince or Crown Prince wish to visit their favourite residence on the
+sea at Topolica, near Antivari, the horses have to be sent by a
+roundabout mountain path from Rijeka, taking many hours, while the
+Princes take steamer and have a tedious wait in the inn at Virpazar.</p>
+
+<p>To this inn we went&mdash;there was no choice about it; it is the only one,
+and, moreover, there is but a single room for guests, serving as
+dining and sleeping apartment. Though we arrived at midday, we had to
+wait till the following day at noon for the postcart&mdash;twenty-four
+hours in this very uninteresting hole.</p>
+
+<p>But we hobnobbed with the local grandees, for there is the district
+law court here (the captain and magistrate have their residences in
+the village), and managed to pass the time fairly agreeably. In the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>evening we sat under the trees in front of our humble yet princely
+hostel, and talked of many things to our newly made friends. The frogs
+in the marshes made a terrific noise, almost drowning our
+conversation.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we entered the post-chaise, in which we had wisely booked
+all the four seats, and made a start on our six hours' drive. What
+would have happened had other travellers arrived is hard to imagine. A
+wait of forty-eight hours till the next post went would have probably
+caused annoyance, and this carriage was literally the only means of
+conveyance on this side of Montenegro. It goes one day and returns the
+next. Fortunately, passengers are extremely rare. The drive was of
+great interest, winding up in a series of sweeping curves between
+magnificent hills. The ridge on our left was the site of a great
+battle in the last war, when a small Montenegrin force dislodged a
+large Turkish army and captured Antivari and the long-coveted sea. The
+danger and recklessness of the feat was apparent from the road, and it
+was evidently not expected by the Turks, for a false step on those
+rocky heights meant certain death.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_24" id="image_24"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/178.jpg" width="500" height="320" alt="ANTIVARI OR BAR" title="ANTIVARI OR BAR" />
+<span class="caption">ANTIVARI OR BAR</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The top of the Sutormann Pass (2,700 feet) was reached in about four
+hours, and now the deep blue Adria was spread out before us, and our
+tortuous descent commenced. Commanding the pass still stands a mighty
+but much-battered fortress, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>taken by the gallant Montenegrins in
+that memorable battle. But nowhere could the historical old town and
+fortress of Bar, or Antivari, be seen. In fact, not till we were
+within a few hundred yards of the town, was a single house in view. It
+is hidden from sight in a hollow, surrounded by a forest of olive
+trees.</p>
+
+<p>All of a sudden the carriage drew up at a recently built stone house,
+ornamented with the trophies of war. Piles of cannon-balls, old
+cannon, splinters of shells are tastefully arranged on the walls.
+Immediately in front of us stood the once famous fortress of Bar, now
+a shot-riddled and ruined mass of stone, a mere shell of its former
+strength.</p>
+
+<p>Even then the town is hardly apparent, but in a few seconds one enters
+it down a steep and slippery path of well-worn stones. On either side
+are Turkish bazaars, out of which Turkish faces peer at the infidel
+dogs. There is very little of the Montenegrin element apparent. We
+only walked through the town once, as our destination was Prstan, the
+actual seaport of Antivari.</p>
+
+<p>We were somewhat rudely disillusioned. After an hour's drive along a
+flat and ugly road, we espied a collection of some half a dozen
+houses. Two or three of them are large and modern in appearance but
+that was all. Was this, then, Antivari, Montenegro's important seaport
+and the bone of contention with Austria?<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Right well has Austria maintained its control of this little port. One
+large house is that of the Austrian Vice-Consul, who lives in solitary
+state, watching everyone who passes through the port. Opposite, on the
+further horn of the bay, lies Spizza, an Austrian military station.
+Antivari is, indeed, but Montenegrin in name.</p>
+
+<p>Right on the shore and in the centre of the large bay stands a white
+house, a short distance from the Austrian frontier, which is Topolica,
+the favourite residence of the Crown Prince. Square, undecorated, and
+uninteresting, it is almost an exact counterpart of the other
+Montenegrin royal residences. Yet its position is superb. From either
+corner of the bay, where the mountains meet the sea, stretches an
+unbroken chain of mountain peaks, rugged and forbidding, but extremely
+picturesque. Witnessed at sunset when the soft lights mellow the sharp
+outlines, and the sombreness of the mountains is tinged with red, the
+fascination which this place holds for this lover of nature, Prince
+Danilo, can be well understood. We spent two days revelling in its
+wild solitariness.</p>
+
+<p>Our hotel was distinctly quaint, but we were very comfortable. Again
+we had but one room for all, but it was clean, and the hostess, an
+Austrian, an excellent cook.</p>
+
+<p>We hoped to have started on our further journeys <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>the following day,
+and found a small sailing vessel anchored in the bay; the captain
+consenting to take us on to Dulcigno. It was an Albanian boat, manned
+by about half a dozen cut-throats, and in spite of warnings we
+arranged to leave next day. Anything would be preferable to a ride of
+eight hours over mountain tracks on mules to Dulcigno; and we were all
+well armed.</p>
+
+<p>But the next day brought contrary winds, and we were forced to spend
+another day in Prstan. That day a large Italian steamer arrived and
+anchored in the bay, to take Prince Nicolas to Italy for the
+christening of his little granddaughter. Shortly before dark he
+arrived, attended by two adjutants, and after speaking a few words to
+the harbour captain, who respectfully kissed his hand, embarked in a
+boat, and was pulled on board the steamer. We were again struck with
+the immense breadth of his figure, clad in a long, grey military
+overcoat, which makes him look much shorter than he really is. He is
+really a typical-looking prince of a race of freeborn mountaineers. As
+he receded from the shore, we drew our revolvers and joined in the
+parting fusillade, shouting "&#381;ivio" as lustily as any of the little
+handful who had awaited him.</p>
+
+<p>The agent of the Austrian Lloyd Steamship Company came to our rescue
+on the following morning, as the Albanian boat made no preparations
+for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>starting, and offered to take us in his own boat to Dulcigno.
+This we gladly accepted, and about midday started in his large and
+roomy boat, built for sailing or for rowing, and manned by four
+Montenegrin sailors.</p>
+
+<p>The wind failed us most of the way, and our four men propelled us with
+long oars or sweeps which are worked standing up and facing them, a
+method of rowing common in the Adriatic. It is a splendid exercise,
+but like everything else it wants practice, as we speedily found out
+when we took a turn.</p>
+
+<p>Coffee, without which no true Montenegrin can exist, was made <i>en
+route</i>, and proved highly acceptable.</p>
+
+<p>Luckily we had taken a supply of food with us, though we had been told
+that we should be in Dulcigno for supper, and this again we devoured
+with ravenous appetites as the long hours wore on. The coast was
+monotonous, a never-varying bank of hills descending to the water's
+edge. Here and there a tiny village could be seen, but otherwise no
+life, and little vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>Not till nine o'clock in the evening did we reach Dulcigno, and the
+impression that the lights in the houses on the hillsides made is not
+easily to be forgotten. It seemed like a colony of spacious and
+luxurious villas on well-wooded slopes. In pitch dark we arrived at a
+quay, and groped our way out <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>of the boat, and were led to the inn.
+Great knockings and shoutings summoned the innkeeper from his early
+slumbers. While waiting in the darkness below, the Turkish muezzins
+ascended the many minarets, and began the evening call to prayer. The
+weird chanting from so many voices (there are seven mosques in
+Dulcigno) in the otherwise utter stillness had a most uncanny effect.</p>
+
+<p>It was a strange arrival.</p>
+
+<p>Our inn was slightly less primitive than the preceding ones. We had a
+tiny bedroom apiece, and there was a room downstairs for eating
+purposes, though we were always able to take our meals outside under
+the trees.</p>
+
+<p>Dulcigno, or Ulcinj, is certainly the prettiest town in Montenegro,
+though it is to all intents and purposes Turkish in appearance. Built
+partly on a hill overlooking the sea, it descends into a small bay
+where the occasional passing steamers anchor. Well wooded and hilly,
+it is really a delightful spot, though the Turkish element may or may
+not detract from its beauty according to personal taste. The irregular
+houses, the mosques with their slender towers, the bazaar, and the
+gaily-dressed if dirty crowds that circulated between the rows of
+shops&mdash;gave a distinctly pleasing effect. The heavily-veiled women,
+wearing in addition to the veil a thick cloth cape with a capacious
+hood, amused us greatly, for on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>meeting us, lest our bold eyes should
+pierce their disguise, they would stop and turn their faces to the
+wall. What these poor creatures suffer from the heat in these
+ponderous cloaks can only be imagined, and Dulcigno is by no means
+cold.</p>
+
+<p>Though the fantastic picture conjured up the night of our arrival by
+the twinkling lights, peeping out of the dark foliage, on the hillside
+was not realised, still the entirely different picture of the reality
+was equally pleasing.</p>
+
+<p>We called the next morning on the harbour captain, an Austrian and
+ex-sea-captain, who received us most kindly and courteously. Through
+him we were at once able to make the acquaintance of one Marko
+Ivankovi&#263;, a hunter of great prowess, whom we immediately engaged to
+attend us for the shooting in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Now, though we will not go so far as to say that he was the sole
+object of our visit to Dulcigno, still he did certainly influence our
+plans. Once, during our very first stay at Podgorica, we met an
+Austrian ornithologist and sportsman who told us a wonderful
+experience of his at Dulcigno with this very man, Marko Ivankovi&#263;. He
+had come to Dulcigno one night by steamer, to spend a few months in
+this paradise for sportsmen, and as he entered a lowly inn, a man of
+almost repellent aspect sat brooding gloomily, evidently lost in a fit
+of abstraction. This <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>man gave no greeting to the new-comer, who sat
+down at the further end of the table and ordered food. Shortly
+afterwards the man rose and silently left the room. An hour later this
+same man reappeared in the doorway, cap in hand, and humbly asked
+permission of the ornithologist to seat himself at the same table. The
+permission was readily given, and the man (it was Marko) came near and
+attempted to kiss L.'s coat. This action signifies the greatest
+humility, and is only accorded to persons of the highest rank. L.
+remonstrated strongly, saying&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Why dost thou kiss my coat? I am a man like thyself, and no prince.
+What wouldst thou from me?"</p>
+
+<p>"Sir, I see that thou art a hunter (L. had his dogs with him), and I
+would fain be thy servant."</p>
+
+<p>L. wanted a man, and from his conversation he soon gathered that this
+was no inexperienced huntsman, and so they spoke of terms. But Marko
+at first would not hear of anything of the sort, saying he would serve
+for nothing. Naturally L. refused to accept his services gratis, and
+at last an arrangement was made that Marko should first prove his
+capabilities and serve a term of probation. Even then Marko refused to
+take money, but a present of a gun or some article to the value of his
+services at so much a day.</p>
+
+<p>With this plan L. was forced to be content, and two days afterwards
+the expeditions into the neigh<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>bouring country were commenced. To tell
+the story in L.'s own words:&mdash;<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<p>"After we had been together some weeks Marko became gloomy and cast
+down, unlike his usual merry self. It was no easy task to persuade him
+to tell me what was the matter. It appeared that he was in debt, and
+should not the money be paid very shortly, his house and all that was
+his would be seized. Of course I gave him the money, which happened to
+be more than his due up to that day, and he took it as a loan. This
+condition he insisted on, and I laughingly assented."</p>
+
+<p>It was then that we first heard of Achmed Uiko, who told us the story
+of his life in Podgorica. Jovan, of the tribe Ku&#263;, had been publicly
+beaten in Dulcigno at this time, and in revenge had shot the Governor,
+who had ordered this ignominious punishment. Jovan had fled to
+Alessio, in Albania, with a price upon his head, and certain persons
+came to Marko to beg him to follow the assassin and bring back his
+head. Marko was then in L.'s service, and confided his dilemma to his
+master, who told him that if he but harboured such thoughts he was not
+fit to be his servant. Marko then refused, and Achmed Uiko accepted,
+murdering Jovan in a boat while fishing, and the head was subsequently
+displayed in Dulcigno. This is a noteworthy episode, for it led to the
+abolition of corporal punishment and of the barbarous custom of
+displaying heads on poles.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This story was published in the <i>Wide World Magazine</i>,
+and is reproduced with the Editor's permission.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span></p></div>
+
+<p>To return, however, to the story:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"After several weeks I made a day's tour with Marko to the Bojana. At
+the mouth of the river, which you know is the outlet of the Lake of
+Scutari, a large island has been formed by a stranded ship which sank
+there, and all the debris, logs, and other rubbish have formed a delta
+of some size upon the wreck. It abounds in game, and thither we
+journeyed one morning early, reaching it some few hours later by a
+small boat in which we ferried ourselves across. During the day a
+great storm sprang up, precluding all chance of returning to the
+mainland that evening. In a hut of boughs we spent a miserable night,
+drenched to the skin by the incessant rain. Not till towards evening
+of the following day could we recross, and it was bright moonlight
+when we commenced our weary tramp, heavily laden and wet, to Dulcigno.
+The neighbourhood is dangerous, both Albanians and Montenegrins shoot
+at sight, and care must always be exercised.</p>
+
+<p>"Perhaps we had covered half the distance, when Marko suddenly and
+without a word of warning threw the bags and other things he was
+carrying to the ground. 'It is a dog's life, nay worse, that I lead
+with thee. My health is ruined, my clothes spoilt, and not a kreutzer
+do I get.'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"I was furious at the man's infamous lie, for he was still several
+guldens to the good, and even more so at the disadvantage he had taken
+over me. Here we were alone in a wild and dangerous district, miles
+from home, and not a human being near.</p>
+
+<p>"'Thou liest, thou ungrateful dog. Thou art an ass without a face.'</p>
+
+<p>"As I said this in my rage&mdash;it is a terrible insult to call a man a
+faceless ass&mdash;Marko's face was transformed with speechless fury. His
+high cheek-bones and black curly hair always made him unprepossessing,
+for his was a distinctly negro type of face, and now with his lips
+drawn back like a snarling wolf, disclosing his yellow teeth and
+gleaming eyeballs, he looked like a fiend incarnate. I shudder now
+when I recall that moonlit scene.</p>
+
+<p>"His hand dropped like lightning on the butt of his revolver, but in
+the moment I had sprung back a pace and covered him with my gun, which
+I was luckily carrying cocked.</p>
+
+<p>"'Thy hand from the revolver,' I cried, 'or thou art a dead man.'
+Slowly his hand sank to his side. 'Pick up those things at once and
+carry them before me, or as sure as there is a God in heaven I will
+shoot thee like the dog thou art.'</p>
+
+<p>"As if every movement was of the greatest exertion he picked up the
+traps, saying as he did so, 'Thou shalt remember these insults.'</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="image_25" id="image_25"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/189_1.jpg" width="250" height="392" alt="MARKO IVANKOVIC" title="MARKO IVANKOVIC" />
+<span class="caption">MARKO IVANKOVIC</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_26" id="image_26"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/189_2.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA" title="THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA" />
+<span class="caption">THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"'Be still!' I cried, covering him with my gun, 'and now precede me.'</p>
+
+<p>"And in this fashion we returned to my house. He threw the load into a
+corner of the room, and at the door he returned and repeated his
+warning, vanishing in the darkness.</p>
+
+<p>"From this time onwards I shot alone. Try as I would I could get no
+one to come with me, and this I put down to the worthy Marko's
+influence. Thrice I saw him while out shooting, but only once within
+speaking distance. I then called to him 'Marko, I know thou wilt try
+and kill me; but listen, I am married and have a wife and child at
+home. For their sakes I ask thee to shoot at me from the front, and
+thus give me a chance to defend myself.'</p>
+
+<p>"He smiled strangely again, saying, 'Thou wilt remember thy insults,'
+and disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>"I always took cover when I saw him, but nothing happened, and the eve
+of my departure arrived. The steamer left in the early morning, and
+just as dawn was breaking and I was still in bed Marko entered the
+room. He approached my bed, and laid upon the table by my head the sum
+of money I had advanced him to repay his debt. Then he spoke:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"'I saidst that thou wouldst remember the insults thou hast put upon
+me. Here is thy money, and now listen to my story. Thou hadst scarce
+set foot in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>Dulcigno when thy death was planned by an enemy, and I
+was hired to do the deed. That was why I would take no wages, for I
+was already well paid; besides, it was thought that thou wouldst then
+certainly engage my services. I was to accidentally shoot thee while
+hunting. What more easy than to stumble and for my gun to explode? But
+when I knew thee, then I could not kill thee thus. I tried to provoke
+thee that night, knowing thee to be a violent-tempered man; I provoked
+thee into insulting me. I hoped thou wouldst have struck me, and then
+it would have been easy. Thou wast very near death at that moment, for
+in spite of thy gun I could have shot thee, but thou hadst grown too
+much into my heart. Even in my rage I was powerless. And now here is
+thy money. I have kept my word, and am an honourable man.'</p>
+
+<p>"I sprang from my bed and stopped him. 'Who was my enemy?' I cried.</p>
+
+<p>"'One who knew thee in Bosnia. This man had hoped that thou wouldst
+visit him, and thy coffee was ready poisoned. When I left thy service
+another man was hired to kill thee, but I followed thee wherever thou
+went. Thus didst thou see me these three times.'</p>
+
+<p>"I knew now who my enemy was. A man exiled by the Austrians for
+treasonable practices whilst I was still an official in Bosnia. Marko
+accompanied <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>me to the ship, but not until I swore on my honour to
+otherwise throw the money into the sea would he accept it, and then
+only that which he had actually earned, not a kreutzer more, for I
+would have willingly made him a present. Thus Marko Ivankovi&#263; went out
+of my life, but I shall never forget him."</p>
+
+<p>Such was the story we heard one evening in Podgorica, and which we
+were here able to prove in part. When Marko heard that we were friends
+of his former master, his face lighted up with joy, and he kissed our
+hands. During our stay he was always with us, a devoted attendant and
+servant. Another very interesting phase of his life had been spent in
+the Hercegovina, where he fought as an outlaw for many years against
+the Austrians. He still possesses two mementoes of his adventures in
+that land, one in the form of an officer's undress jacket, technically
+called a "blouse," and the other of a more permanent character,
+namely, a maimed hand. He and his band were surprised one night by
+gendarmes, and a fierce hand-to-hand fight ensued, during which an
+Austrian aimed a cut at Marko with his sword. Marko caught the blow on
+his hand and held the blade fast, but the gendarme drew back the
+weapon sharply and severed all the tendons of his hand. Marko cannot
+now open his hand, but his wounder was sped to the happy
+hunting-grounds there and then, as he modestly relates.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Shooting of the same kind as on the Lake of Scutari is to be found in
+abundance all round Dulcigno. Unfortunately the Bojana and the
+afore-mentioned island at its mouth was closed to us. The evening of
+our arrival two men had been shot there, and it is doubtful, even had
+we insisted on going, whether the authorities would have permitted it.
+It is not good to visit localities just after shooting affrays. In
+this instance the peasants on both sides were excited, and we
+reluctantly gave up the trip to which we had looked forward for some
+time. However, there was plenty left to shoot over, and we had much
+good sport with pelican, duck, and crane.</p>
+
+<p>One rather unpleasant incident occurred during our stay, which very
+nearly ended seriously.</p>
+
+<p>The lakes and swamps over which we shot lay at about an hour and a
+half's walk from the town, and it was necessary to be there by
+daybreak. We had ordered our paddlers to await us one morning at dawn,
+and on our arrival were considerably annoyed to find no one there but
+a boy. After a short wait we started, taking the boy and the larger
+londra, or canoe, Marko and Stephan paddling as well. A longer delay
+would have spoilt our morning, as the fowl disappear long before the
+sun is well up in the heavens. About an hour later we discerned a boat
+paddling furiously towards us, and, coming alongside, the inmates
+proved to be our missing crew. Seizing <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>our canoe, the spokesman
+addressed our boy, abusing him roundly, saying he had stolen his
+canoe, and demanded the paddles peremptorily. The boy looked at us
+helplessly, and naturally refused, for we were in the middle of a
+lake. The man then became livid with rage, rocked our canoe violently,
+threatening to overturn us into the water. Then his hand dropped on
+his revolver, and in his face appeared unmistakably the lust to kill.
+All this passed so quickly that we had listened to the altercation in
+open-mouthed astonishment. The rage and violence took us utterly by
+surprise, for nothing of the kind had ever happened to us before from
+the naturally courteous Montenegrins. However, now the man's rage
+communicated itself to us, and in the twinkling of an eye both Marko
+and myself had covered him with our firearms&mdash;we both had guns at our
+side&mdash;and Stephan began to talk. Stephan was a violent-tempered man,
+and now he let himself go. He spoke for some minutes, and it was
+lurid. The muzzle of my carbine began to wobble, for his fluency and
+comprehensiveness were distinctly amusing, while our attacker, who
+soon let go the butt of his revolver, listened with pained but
+undisguised admiration. "And now, thou accursed one," wound up
+Stephan, after he had paid attention, in his burst of eloquence, to
+the man's family, antecedents, personal appearance, and probable
+future, "go back to the hotel, and await my master's return! <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>Thou
+knowest the law. For even laying the hand on thy revolver in anger,
+and against strangers in our land, thou wilt be thrown into prison,
+and thou wilt receive ten months. I will come and see thee, and listen
+to the music of thy clanking chains, and we will talk of to-day's
+doings!" By the time Stephan had finished, abject fear was depicted on
+the man's face, and his companions showed signs of having heard
+enough. Murmuring apologies, they sheered off, and with a slow and
+thoughtful rhythm paddled back the way they had come.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the inn several hours later the three men were
+standing stiffly outside the door, cap in hand and thoroughly scared.
+He who had attacked us spoke tremblingly, offering as an excuse that
+they had fished all night and had but gone for some food before taking
+us out again. They were direly poor, he said, and the fear of losing
+their wages had upset them, the long night without sleep had destroyed
+their powers of reasoning, and&mdash;would we forgive them for the
+dastardly outrage? Needless to say we dismissed them, as do the
+magistrates, with a caution.</p>
+
+<p>We met amongst other Montenegrin officials the district doctor, an
+interesting man of varied experience. At his invitation we witnessed
+the annual vaccination, which is compulsory in Montenegro.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_27" id="image_27"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/198_1.jpg" width="500" height="360" alt="VACCINATION" title="VACCINATION" />
+<span class="caption">VACCINATION</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_28" id="image_28"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/198_2.jpg" width="500" height="359" alt="BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO" title="BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO" />
+<span class="caption">BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Outside the door of the principal mosque the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>doctor and his
+assistants and some other officials took up their position one morning
+and waited. Shortly afterwards crowds of children appeared on the
+scene, mostly in charge of their Turkish fathers or elder brothers,
+some of the latter scarcely able to carry their little burdens. Very
+rarely a Turkish mother appeared, closely veiled, but the Christian
+mothers invariably came; that is, the Albanian Christians from the
+outlying villages. Very quaint are these women in a most picturesque
+costume and carrying their infants in a cumbersome and unwieldy cradle
+slung on their backs. It was a very varied assortment of babies which
+was presented to the doctor, many of the Turkish children being so
+emaciated and such a mass of repulsive sores, that many were sent away
+as too weak. Most of them shrieked with fear, but a few came up
+smiling, one and all comforted by their protector, either Turk, child,
+or fond mother. The fathers invariably showed the most distressed
+concern. It was a comical sight; outside the rails a motley crowd of
+interested spectators and waiting children, and in the inclosure the
+doctor pricking his patients one after the other in a most indifferent
+manner. His clerk noted the names, and we, with some of the local
+grandees, drank tiny cups of coffee and looked on.</p>
+
+<p>The Albanian or Turkish element is very strong in Dulcigno, and they
+are the only Montenegrin <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>subjects exempt from compulsory military
+service. The Montenegrin authorities told us that they were very
+peaceable and industrious, giving no trouble whatever. It is, after
+Podgorica, the largest town in Montenegro, and does a lot of trade in
+small sailing-boats down the coast. As many as seventy-five per cent
+of the men are usually away at sea, carrying the Montenegrin flag as
+far as Constantinople. It is quite cut off from the rest of
+Montenegro, except by a mule track connecting it over a difficult
+mountain path with Antivari and the rest of the country. By sea it is
+connected by the Austrian-Lloyd weekly Albanian Line, and by one or
+two smaller steamers which occasionally call there, with Cattaro and
+the Albanian coast towns.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+
+<h3>We ride to Scutari&mdash;The Albanian Customs officials&mdash;We suffer much
+from Turkish saddles&mdash;Arrival at Scutari, and again pass the
+Customs&mdash;"Buon arrivato"&mdash;Scutari and its religious troubles&mdash;The town
+and bazaar&mdash;A slight misunderstanding, Yes and No&mdash;We return to Rijeka
+by steamer&mdash;The beauties of the trip&mdash;Wrong change&mdash;The prodigal son's
+return, when the fatted calf is <i>not</i> killed.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Before we left Dulcigno it was necessary to have our passports vis&eacute;d
+by the Turkish Consul, as we intended returning to Podgorica <i>vi&acirc;</i>
+Scutari. We had to go through a lot of tedious formality, though the
+Consul was a most pleasant man, and laughed at the precautions which
+his orders forced him to take. But as he supplied us with horses and
+an escort&mdash;for the path is considered somewhat dangerous&mdash;we resigned
+ourselves to the inevitable with a good grace. Our guns and carbines
+we were forced to send back to Podgorica with Stephan, as the law is
+very strict against the introduction of firearms into Albania, where,
+however, even the poorest peasant goes fully armed. But as strangers
+our weapons would have been confiscated on the border. Verily the ways
+of the Turk are passing strange.</p>
+
+<p>We made a start at four o'clock one morning just as the sun was
+appearing above the hills, and the day <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>promised to be extremely hot.
+Our horses were fairly good, and the man who constituted our guard, an
+Albanian, seemed a pleasant fellow, which much belied his appearance.
+A more villainous-looking face, with half his teeth missing, could
+hardly be imagined. However, the whole way he rolled us cigarettes
+most industriously, rarely taking one from us. Our saddles were
+Turkish, and were our first experience of them, and, it is to be
+hoped, the last.</p>
+
+<p>The high road, or rather path, to Scutari, is considered good for
+Montenegro. In reality it is a mere track, in places paved with
+cobblestones atrociously laid. It is odd that many important districts
+in this country are entirely unconnected by roads with the
+neighbouring towns, and consequently such things as carriages do not
+exist. As an instance, the whole of the country lying beyond Rijeka
+towards the sea, containing two important towns, and in size about an
+eighth of Montenegro, possesses one short road&mdash;from Virpazar to
+Antivari&mdash;and one carriage.</p>
+
+<p>Our path lay for the first three hours through a richly vegetated
+country, and the scenery at times was quite English, owing to the
+amount of oak trees which overhang the path. But at nearly every open
+space was a Turkish graveyard. The indiscriminate way in which the
+Turks bury their dead is most extraordinary.</p>
+
+<p>We reached the River Bojana, and rode along the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span>bank some time before
+we came to the ferry. It is a broad and swiftly flowing river of quite
+imposing size. The heat was now getting tremendous, and a friendly
+Albanian picking apricots on the roadside gave us many handfuls, which
+proved very acceptable.</p>
+
+<p>Two Albanians came across in a large barge in answer to our hail, and
+we and our horses&mdash;the latter, by the way, stepping into the barge
+most unconcernedly&mdash;were piloted across. Here we entered Albania, and
+were examined by a fierce-looking Customs official. He turned our
+baggage out on to a mat, and evidently meant to overhaul it
+thoroughly, when a few <i>Daily Graphics</i> caught his eye. After that he
+dismissed the remainder of our things with a wave of the hand, which
+our men promptly repacked, and retired into the papers. A lot of other
+men came up, and we were pleased to afford so much delight with our
+illustrated journals.</p>
+
+<p>As we were drinking coffee in the very primitive inn, a heavy
+thunderstorm came on, and deluges of rain, keeping us here for about
+an hour, when it cleared up sufficiently to proceed. Our landlord at
+Dulcigno had packed us up a meal with a bottle or two of wine at our
+orders, and we, now being hungry, inspected the basket. It was, to put
+it mildly, distinctly disappointing, and not fit to eat or drink.
+Added to this, my hunting knife was stolen, and we were very glad to
+get on again.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The rest of the ride was the reverse of monotonous. The path was now
+as slippery as grease, and our horses floundered at every other step,
+and at times we plashed through quagmires, and became bespattered from
+head to foot. Several men passed us with rifles slung over their
+shoulders, but interchanged salutations with our guard. With the
+exception of one small revolver, we were unarmed and practically
+helpless. A short time after our ride through this district, a
+stranger was killed. It is very unfair to refuse foreigners the
+permission to carry any arms through such dangerous parts, when it is
+considered a disgrace to go unarmed by the inhabitants. Our saddles,
+too, were beginning to cause us much discomfort. After the first few
+hours on a Turkish saddle, every movement of the horse becomes agony.</p>
+
+<p>We reached the outskirts of Scutari about seven hours after our start,
+and the town is entered by a great bridge. But before coming to the
+bridge we rode through a great assembly of Albanians, judging from
+their different costumes, from every part of the country, with their
+flocks and herds for the market. The men were lying about singly or in
+groups, sometimes under a rough tent, while the women attended to
+their wants and to the flocks. Each man was heavily armed with rifle
+and revolver, and turned lazily as we passed, with no friendly looks,
+plainly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>intimating that we were intruders. Still they were fine,
+fierce-looking men, though their expression is not nearly so
+prepossessing as that of the Montenegrin. It was a strange scene of
+life, but only one of many that abound in and about the capital of
+Albania.</p>
+
+<p>At the bridge we had to dismount and cross on foot, and a very painful
+operation it proved after so many hours in the saddle.</p>
+
+<p>The custom-house was situated immediately at the other end of the
+bridge, and here we entered. In the guard-house, full of
+disreputable-looking Turkish soldiers, were hung rifles and revolvers
+on nails in great number and variety, which the mountaineers have to
+leave on entering the town precincts. The custom-house official was
+peacefully sleeping when we came in, and had to be awakened. We were
+led to a divan, and cigarettes and coffee promptly brought to us while
+our passports were examined. In a quarter of an hour we were allowed
+to proceed, but a man came running after us saying that our baggage
+had not been examined. He gently hinted that he had no wish to examine
+it all if ..., and we understood. We forced a handful of backsheesh in
+his seemingly unwilling hand, and slowly, with many muttered
+exclamations, climbed into the saddles. We even did not scorn the
+friendly aid of a low wall, so painfully stiff were we.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A short ride round the once mighty and historical fortress of Scutari,
+past a ruined building liberally painted with white crosses, said to
+have been once the Cathedral, and where we had noticed that Christian
+Albanians piously crossed themselves on passing, led us to the famous
+bazaar.</p>
+
+<p>It was not our first visit to Scutari (we had visited the town by
+steamer from Montenegro on several previous occasions), but as we
+clattered through the evil-smelling alleys filled with a surging mass
+of more or less unclean humanity, we were struck more forcibly than
+ever with the picture. At times our passage was blocked by the crowds,
+and misshapen figures and hideous faces would peer out of doors and
+shop windows at us, and swaggering Albanians would jostle each other,
+their belts for the most part empty, though many were armed in spite
+of the stringent rules to the contrary. Slowly we forged our way
+through this seething crowd, and emerged on the open road beyond,
+leading to the town proper, which lies about half-an-hour's distance
+away.</p>
+
+<p>At the hotel we dismissed the man (and the horses), who remarked with
+a certain grimness, in Italian, "Buon arrivato," and we staggered into
+a meal which our eight-hour fast and torture had rendered extremely
+necessary.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="image_29" id="image_29"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/208.jpg" width="600" height="326" alt="THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI" title="THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI" />
+<span class="caption">THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Though Scutari, strictly speaking, does not belong to this account of
+Montenegro, it is still so interesting, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>being in former days part
+of Montenegro, that it deserves some mention.</p>
+
+<p>The actual town is Mahometan, three-quarters of the inhabitants
+belonging to that faith; but as the surrounding mountains are all
+Christian, and it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Bishopric of
+Albania, religious feuds are common. The Christian Albanian belongs
+literally to the "Church Militant," and emphasises his feelings
+occasionally by throwing a dead pig into a mosque. On other occasions
+playful Albanians have been known to tie white cloths round a fez,
+thereby imitating the headgear of a Mahometan priest, and so parade
+through the town. Very naturally the Mahometans object to it, and
+trouble ensues. About a year ago Scutari was in a state of siege, and
+closed to trade for a fortnight.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+<p>The consular quarter of the town is really quite fine, and here all
+the rich merchants, of whom there are very many, live in large houses
+often beautifully fitted up and surrounded by a formidable wall. A
+street where such houses are situated is externally very gloomy,
+nothing to be seen but high walls pierced by massive gates. Behind
+those walls, however, are lovely gardens and imposing houses.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This has again happened since writing the above.</p></div>
+
+<p>The consulates are very much in evidence, with guards of
+splendid-looking Albanian kavasses. Politically only Austria and Italy
+are vitally interested in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>Albania, and these countries have large
+consular staffs and fine buildings and post offices.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the absence of the British Consul, we went to see the acting
+Vice-Consul, who is a Scutarine, and a very courteous gentleman. Like
+all the rich merchants of Scutari, he spoke Italian fluently, and
+through him we got an insight into the merchant houses. An extremely
+aged kavass, in the long white skirt or kirtle worn largely in
+Scutari, and with the British Arms emblazoned on his fez, respectfully
+kissed our hands, and we were told that he had been in English service
+for over forty years. But he could not speak a word of any language
+except Albanian.</p>
+
+<p>The Vice-Consul placed another kavass at our disposal to accompany us
+on our explorations of the town, and gave him further permission to
+attend us on our proposed ride to Podgorica. This latter idea we were
+forced to give up ultimately, as the roads were considered too
+dangerous. As a matter of fact, a big shooting affray took place in
+the district through which we should have traversed a few days
+afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>Quite one of the sights is Mr. Paget's house (of Paget's Horse fame),
+situated in the heart of the town. The clock tower affords a fine
+view, though the time that it keeps is startling to the new-comer. As
+is known, the Turks have a time of their own, which has a difference
+of four hours and a half to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>our time. It is misleading to get up at
+an early hour, say six o'clock, and find that it is already half-past
+ten. And again you feel you ought to be sleeping at one o'clock at
+night, till you remember that it is really only about eight o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>In the bazaar of Scutari representatives of every clan in Albania can
+be seen, and each tribe has his distinctive dress, so that the variety
+of national costumes to be seen there can be imagined. The Scutarines
+are of course very much in evidence, clad in a jaunty sleeveless and
+magnificently-embroidered jacket, silk shirt, and enormous baggy
+breeches of black, and heavily pleated. How heavily pleated they are
+can be gathered when twenty to twenty-five yards of a kind of black
+alpaca are used for one pair of knee-breeches. White stockings and a
+red skull-cap&mdash;not the high Turkish fez&mdash;with a huge blue silk tassel
+reaching to the waist, complete the attire. Their women-folk look
+picturesque in a large scarlet cloak, with a hood half covering the
+face.</p>
+
+<p>The student of Albanian costumes can make a complete study of the
+subject in Scutari, rendering a journey into the vast country beyond
+almost unnecessary.</p>
+
+<p>We always took a camera with us, but with very poor results. It is
+against the Mahometan religion to be photographed, neither are
+photographers looked upon with pleasure. We did once plant our camera
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>in the main street of the bazaar, to the great anger of a policeman
+who ordered us off, luckily after we had secured a picture.</p>
+
+<p>When we were quite new to Scutari, it happened we were waiting for a
+boat to take us off to the steamer, when we were struck with a
+particularly fine old Scutariner in red fez and long flowing skirt.
+Through the medium of an interpreter, I politely asked the permission
+to take his picture. He solemnly nodded his head backwards, and I,
+rejoiced at so good a subject, hurriedly erected the stand. When I
+next glanced at him, his face was purple with rage, and he made a
+threatening movement. For a moment I was quite at a loss to understand
+the why and wherefore, until our interpreter hastily explained that it
+was against the old man's religion.</p>
+
+<p>"But he said 'yes,'" I expostulated. "At least he nodded."</p>
+
+<p>"That means 'no,'" said the interpreter.</p>
+
+<p>"What does?" I demanded. "Saying 'yes,' or nodding it."</p>
+
+<p>Then the man explained to me at some length, as I repacked my camera,
+that in the Orient to shake the head means "yes," and a nod&mdash;a quick
+elevation of the chin accompanied by a click of the tongue&mdash;is
+negative. This custom is largely adopted in Montenegro, particularly
+amongst the peasants, but even then we never quite knew if a shake of
+the head <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>was meant in the Turkish or European sense. It is a
+confusing and irritating habit, and takes months to get accustomed to.</p>
+
+<p>Visitors to Montenegro usually spend a day in Scutari, for the route
+by steamer is the only perfectly safe way of entering the town.
+Passengers by the steamer are not required to have their passports
+vis&eacute;d, if they state their intention to the official, who promptly
+boards the steamer on its arrival, to return by it next day. But names
+and particulars are carefully noted and laid before the Governor.
+During this particular visit, we were already well known to the
+Turkish officer in charge of this department, a pleasant little
+fellow, inordinately proud of his French which he had just learnt; but
+still he worried us greatly, calling daily and even sending obvious
+spies to find out how long we really meant to stay and our object. We
+tried to impress upon him that we had no base intentions on the town,
+and were really quite harmless individuals, but he remained friendlily
+suspicious till he bade farewell to us on board the little steamer
+<i>Danitza</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is about four hours to Plavnica, and the trip across the lake is
+very fine, surrounded as it is by magnificent mountains and dotted
+with tiny wooded islands along its northern bank. We did not disembark
+at Plavnica, the nearest point for Podgorica, but proceeded <i>vi&acirc;</i>
+Virpazar up the river to Rijeka, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>the final station of the steamer and
+connecting link with Cetinje. The voyage up to Rijeka is delightful,
+as the boat threads her way through a narrow channel between lofty
+green hills. It is a picture of as true sylvan beauty, peace and
+quiet, as can be found on many of the upper reaches of the Thames.</p>
+
+<p>At Rijeka we waited in an inn for the carriage, which we had ordered
+by telegraph from Cetinje to take us back to Podgorica, and were
+startled to hear a revolver-shot fired in the village. Everyone was
+running excitedly to a certain small "dugan," or shop, and thither we
+also directed our steps and found a bleeding Montenegrin standing over
+a prostrate and insensible Turk.</p>
+
+<p>What had happened was as follows. The Montenegrin had bought some
+tobacco from the Turk, and claimed to have been given two kreutzers
+(under a halfpenny) short in change, whereupon the Turk accused the
+other of having hidden it.</p>
+
+<p>"Thou art a liar!" promptly cried the Montenegrin, and received a
+bullet in the thigh as an answer from the enraged Turk. Not seriously
+hurt, the Montenegrin, equally quickly, drew his revolver and, using
+it as a club, knocked the Turk insensible; in fact, he was thought to
+be dead. However, we afterwards heard that he had recovered.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards we were spending a few days <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>in Cetinje, and were
+again witnesses of the final act of another small drama which was
+enacted about this time.</p>
+
+<p>One morning we saw about twenty Montenegrins brought into the town
+heavily chained, and on inquiry we were told the following story.</p>
+
+<p>A young man, whom we will call Andreas to prevent confusion, had been
+for some time in Austria, and not finding work he returned to his
+village, named Ljubotin, half-way between Rijeka and Cetinje, or, to
+be more correct, just below the Bella Vista in the hollow. He arrived
+in the night, penniless and in a desperate condition, and waited
+outside his widowed mother's house till he saw that all the men, his
+relations, had left and gone to work in the fields. Entering the house
+he demanded money of his aged mother, who indignantly refused him&mdash;he
+seems to have been a bad lot altogether&mdash;and as he threatened to take
+it by force, she hurriedly called in the village kmet, or mayor, to
+protect her. But the kmet was also aged and infirm, and brought a
+young man with him. This young man remonstrated with Andreas, who was
+breaking open the chest, and said&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Give me thy revolver."</p>
+
+<p>"Thus I give it thee," answered Andreas, and drawing his revolver he
+shot the man dead.</p>
+
+<p>Andreas then fled out of the house into the fields, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>and the murdered
+man's relations speedily gathered together and pursued him. They
+espied the fugitive running and fired at him, whereupon Andreas threw
+up his arms and fell to the ground. His pursuers thinking him dead,
+left him. Andreas was in reality shamming, and crawling through the
+bushes saw his uncle at work and promptly fired at <i>him</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This time he met his deserts, for his uncle, unhurt, returned the
+compliment and shot him through the head.</p>
+
+<p>These shots brought the original pursuers to the spot, and seeing
+Andreas dead, and shot by his uncle and not by them, they began
+abusing the old man for taking their lawful prey from them.</p>
+
+<p>He bared his chest dramatically, saying that as he knew that the
+vendetta must continue, they should shoot him then and there and end
+the matter. But they would not, and going further found another
+relation of Andreas; this time a young man, and the pride of the
+family. They shot and wounded him slightly. He fired and mortally
+wounded one of his attackers, which was as far as they got.</p>
+
+<p>The gendarmes had come and arrested them all, and these were the men
+of both sides, which we had seen that morning.</p>
+
+<p>As we knew several of them personally, we were doubly interested.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+
+<h3>Preparations for our tour in the Brda&mdash;We start&mdash;Where it is not good
+to be giddy&mdash;A trying ride&mdash;Our inn&mdash;Nocturnal episodes&mdash;The journey
+continued&mdash;Pleasant surroundings&mdash;The Montenegrin <i>quart
+d'heure</i>&mdash;Arrival in Kola&#353;in&mdash;We meet the Governor&mdash;Visiting&mdash;The Band
+of Good Hope&mdash;The Crown Prince's birthday&mdash;We are ashamed.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The preparations for our tour through the mountainous districts of
+North-East Montenegro, known as the Brda, took a few days.</p>
+
+<p>We had some difficulty about horses, though ultimately P. and I
+secured two good animals for ourselves, but the third, destined for
+the bulk of our baggage and Stephan, was a dilapidated apology for the
+equine race. As a matter of fact, it stood the trying journey in a
+remarkable manner.</p>
+
+<p>Then there were a few pots and pans for cooking purposes to purchase,
+some necessary additions with which to supplement our humble fare, and
+two days' rations of meat and bread.</p>
+
+<p>It made a formidable pile when we reviewed it one morning at daybreak,
+though we had cut down our baggage as close as possible. It took
+Stephan about an hour to load up, and when he had finished, he had
+left no room on top for himself.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We carried ourselves each a carbine, revolver, and bandolier of
+cartridges, and a pair of saddlebags; but what with a camera, camping
+utensils, guns and cartridges, sleeping-coats, etc., the pack-horse
+was full up. However, there was no help for it, and Stephan had to
+walk the first day.</p>
+
+<p>We left Podgorica about 6.30, accompanied by Dr. S., who came with us
+partly on business and partly out of friendship. As he knew the
+country perfectly, he did much to render our tour more interesting.</p>
+
+<p>The mountains ascend abruptly, and our path was for some hours along
+the turbulent Mora&#269;a, which we met at the end of the plain. In five
+minutes we were surrounded by mountain scenery. Some little way up the
+valley a bridge is in the course of construction across the stream,
+and will form part of the projected road from Podgorica to Kola&#353;in. On
+its completion, we were told, it would be the highest bridge in the
+Balkans. Men were working on a loose and steeply sloping bank of
+crumbling earth a few feet above a precipitous rock, which overhangs
+the Mora&#269;a, at a height of two hundred and fifty feet.</p>
+
+<p>"They very rarely fall," said Dr. S. in answer to our unspoken
+question.</p>
+
+<p>It made us giddy and sick to watch them. But our own position was
+often not much safer. The path see-sawed up and down; one moment we
+were splashed by the spray of a waterfall as it dashed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>into a creamy
+pool, and the next we were up on a dizzy height, with one foot hanging
+over a precipice, gazing on the foam-flecked mill-race below. Verily,
+it is no journey for a giddy man to take. A single false step on the
+part of the horse would send both it and its rider to a sudden death.
+With the ordinary mountain pony, for the horses are practically only
+that, it is not necessary to guide it&mdash;in fact it might be dangerous.
+The Montenegrin rides with a loose rein over the most ticklish ground,
+only tightening his grip on descending a very steep hill to help his
+horse when it occasionally stumbles.</p>
+
+<p>Despite a slight nervousness, we were still able to appreciate to the
+full the grand scenery of the valley of the Mora&#269;a. It turned out to
+be quite as fine as anything we saw in the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>About four hours after our start we crossed the stream by a wooden
+bridge and dismounted at an inn. Stabling our horses in the ground
+floor, we ascended to the upper regions where the human beings live,
+and clamoured for food.</p>
+
+<p>Raw ham and, of course, eggs were all that was to be had, and, as it
+turned out, it was our only meal that day. The flies were terrible,
+but Dr. S. comforted us, saying that every hour would bring us to
+higher regions and consequently fewer flies. A prophecy which was only
+partially fulfilled.</p>
+
+<p>We made the best of our repast, and after an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>hour's rest we made
+another start. We left the river now, and seemed to climb a breakneck
+hill for interminable hours. The region was barren and absolutely
+waterless, while the heat was tremendous. I only remember one view
+during that broiling ride. We had reached a great altitude, and were
+crossing a narrow ridge. On one side was the Mora&#269;a, and on the other
+the Mala, both streams mere threads in the hazy distance.</p>
+
+<p>It was the want of water that tried us more than anything. About
+midday we halted for a while at a small village, and under the
+refreshing shade of a large tree. Some young men kindly fetched us a
+little water in a dirty vessel, which tasted abominably.</p>
+
+<p>Another long climb and we at last found shade, and rode for the rest
+of the afternoon through beech forests. If the path had been bad
+before, it was worse now, and it was a perfect marvel how the horses
+kept their feet. I was somewhat unfortunate in my horse Alat, who was
+blind in one eye, so that I always had to guide him over difficult
+places. This kept me for ever on the alert, and became trying. At
+every hut we pulled up and asked for milk, but invariably got "Nema"
+(I have none) for an answer. The Montenegrins are singularly laconic
+at times.</p>
+
+<p>Now began a long descent, so atrocious that we had to dismount and
+climb down on foot, leaving the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>horses to pick their way as best they
+could, and about seven p.m. we reached the house where we were to
+spend the night. It consisted of two rooms, a kitchen and a bedroom,
+the sole furniture of the latter consisting of two wooden bedsteads.</p>
+
+<p>There was no food, except a half lamb, which Stephan had brought on
+the pack-horse, and its condition was unpleasant from its many hours'
+exposure to the sun and attendant flies. It took over an hour to cook,
+and by that time our ravenous hunger had passed, stilled by a few
+quarts of delicious milk. The inn&mdash;for such was the character of the
+house&mdash;unlike similar institutions of more civilised lands, had
+neither accommodation for man nor beast. There was no hay for our
+hungry horses, who had to wait for two hours while a man took an
+hour's climb up a mountain to the next village and brought back a load
+of 45 kilos (100 lbs.) on his back. A little thought can be given to
+this fact. Suffice it to say that this lean and athletic man took off
+his shirt and literally wrung the sweat from it. This, too, at the end
+of a long day's work. Part of the hay served for our beds, and little
+enough it seemed too.</p>
+
+<p>P. and I were given the two beds, or rather we were forced to take
+them, and I turned in at once, after looking at the mutton broth, and
+fell asleep immediately. In the night I was awakened by a child crying
+in the room, and in the dim light I was startled <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span>to see the
+floor&mdash;empty when I went to bed&mdash;strewn with sleeping figures.</p>
+
+<p>A heap that I rightly guessed was the doctor, moved uneasily.</p>
+
+<p>"Doctor," I said softly, "are you awake?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," came the answer. "A small child has evidently mistaken me for
+its father or mother. Will you have it?"</p>
+
+<p>I feigned sleep.</p>
+
+<p>Other figures were snoring peacefully and emphatically, but the tiny
+inmates of my hay bed were painfully awake and sleep seemed banished.
+However, I must have slept again, for when I awoke the room was empty,
+except for Stephan, who was packing up. We had a wash in the stream
+and made a hurried breakfast, and were off by a fairly early hour.
+Stephan had found a horse, which must have come as a blessing to him.
+He had walked yesterday about thirty miles. The path was much better
+to-day, and we were enabled to make better pace. At a small village
+named Lijeva Rijeka we made a long halt to allow the doctor to
+transact some official business. We ate up what meat we had left, and
+had great fun with the village big-wigs.</p>
+
+<p>Strangers are beings of rare occurrence in the mountains, and we
+always came in for much "courteous curiosity." Dr. S. and Stephan
+enjoyed answering inquiries as to who we were immensely. One <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span>time we
+were engineers making plans for the new road; another time we were
+enterprising merchants about to open up the country; and once a man
+remarked, when he was told that I was the British Minister, "And wears
+patched trousers?" He referred to the knee pads of my riding-breeches.</p>
+
+<p>Our arms, as was only natural to this fighting race, attracted great
+interest. The carbines, of the Austrian Mannlicher system, invariably
+went the round to a chorus of delighted appreciation. Likewise our
+field-glasses, through which they would look for hours.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after leaving this village we had a fortunately short but
+exceedingly steep hill to climb, which brought us on to a magnificent
+plateau of rich green grass, carpeted with wild flowers. From this
+point onwards the scenery changed completely. We were in the Alpine
+regions. It was very beautiful, the trees covered every hill with a
+mass of green foliage, and every here and there a snow-capped mountain
+peak would appear. Not only was the scenery different, but the
+dwellings of the peasants took quite another style of architecture;
+conical thatched roofs of a height out of all proportion to the size
+of the house, and a massive verandah or loggia built into the house,
+The inhabitants are snowed up for many months every year, and have to
+lay in great stores of food. But how delightful <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>it must be here in
+winter! What an opportunity for snow-shoeing! The peasants can do the
+journey to Podgorica in about half the time on their primitive
+snow-shoes.</p>
+
+<p>The ride from here to Kola&#353;in was nearly perfection. We skirted
+rushing mountain torrents, through woodland glades and soft green
+swards; the air was glorious and cool, for though the sun was powerful
+there was an abundance of shade. One drawback, however, a drawback
+sufficient to mar our happiness, was not denied us. Every mile or so
+we had to plunge through a quagmire, equal to the worst South African
+mudhole, which is saying a great deal. Much care had to be exercised
+to prevent the horses getting fairly bogged or breaking their legs,
+but all passed without an accident, though our condition at the end of
+the day was awful. We were bespattered from head to foot.</p>
+
+<p>Several halts at hans were made during the day for rest, food, and
+milk, and about three p.m. we struck the River Tara, and had crossed
+the water-shed of the Adria and the Black Sea. We followed the Tara
+till Kola&#353;in, where we arrived about seven o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>Montenegrins have no idea of judging time and distance, which is
+curious. There is another favourite way of describing a distance: by
+cigar (cigarette) smoking. You will be informed that the distance <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span>is
+one cigarette, which means that the traveller has time to smoke one
+cigarette on the way. As an ordinary smoker consumes a cigarette in
+about ten minutes, the distance would seem small, but it is not so. It
+is better to reckon two hours. Quarters of hours and cigarette-smoking
+measurements take a lot of learning, and cause much vexation to the
+spirit before they are mastered. When the stranger has mastered them,
+he ceases to ask, and patiently waits. One word of warning to
+intending travellers. If you are told that the next village is <i>two</i>
+hours away, then rest awhile and eat and drink, for two hours means
+"X."</p>
+
+<p>About seven p.m. we clattered up the little street of Kola&#353;in, which
+is the capital of the same-named district.</p>
+
+<p>It is a beautiful mountainous tract of country, as unlike to
+Montenegro proper as is the sun to the moon, richly wooded with dense
+primeval beech forests, full of rushing streams and rich pasturages.
+The little town itself is rather uninteresting; it has about 1,500
+inhabitants, all Montenegrin, for the Turk has almost entirely
+disappeared. Only in a ruined mosque and one or two dilapidated
+Turkish houses is the traveller reminded that once the Unspeakable was
+master here. The houses are all built with the afore-mentioned high
+conical roof and of substantial aspect.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Our inn was a curiosity, and as we drew rein before it we noticed a
+crowd of men in the balcony of the first or top floor, for here the
+ground floor was devoted to stabling. Doctor S. hastily whispered that
+the Governor and General of Kola&#353;in was one of the men upstairs. On
+going up the rickety stairs, we were at once introduced to him, and
+received most friendlily. He was a small wiry man, and reminded one
+strongly in appearance of Lord Roberts. Also, he spoke excellent
+German, having studied years ago in the Viennese Military Academy.
+Very kindly he promised to assist us during our stay in every way, and
+invited us to his house next morning.</p>
+
+<p>We overlooked the Market Square and had real beds, though the only
+available room was tiny. Dr. S. and Stephan slept somewhere else.
+After the heat of the valley, we found the air very keen up here;
+Kola&#353;in lies over 3,000 feet, and is the highest town of any size in
+Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning we visited the Governor Martinovi&#263; formally
+in his house. It is only recently that he has ceased to be the
+Artillery General of Montenegro, a post which he held all through the
+Turkish war, taking part in all the important engagements.</p>
+
+<p>His ambition is to see the road connecting his district with Podgorica
+finished, which would bring <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>the two towns within a six hours' drive
+of each other, instead of the present two days' very hard riding. The
+benefit to Kola&#353;in is obvious. At present the vast beech forests,
+literally rotting, could be utilised, for wood is dear in the barren
+districts of Montenegro. Pyrite, too, is found in great quantities. In
+fact, Kola&#353;in is cut off from the rest of the country. Everything must
+be painfully carried on horses or mules, and for a woman, other than a
+peasant, it is a journey of great difficulty. Side saddles are things
+unknown, and we heard of one lady, the wife of a foreign minister, who
+bravely undertook the journey, spending six days on the way from
+Podgorica. The Governor gave us a graphic description of the
+difficulties that he had experienced when he brought his family up
+here.</p>
+
+<p>We also visited the local doctor, a most extraordinary individual with
+a crank. He had started a Montenegrin temperance society, called the
+"Band of Good Hope." At present, I believe, the three hundred odd
+members were all from Kola&#353;in, and it was meeting with very little
+encouragement. The cultivation of plums for the manufacture of spirits
+is a staple industry, and these peasants wish to know what they shall
+do with their fruit. Besides, as the Montenegrins very rarely get
+drunk, it seems rather an unnecessary movement, and the Prince himself
+does not favour it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Bismarck once said that England's greatness began to diminish when the
+"three-bottle man" died out; perhaps Prince Nicolas has like thoughts
+of his hardy subjects, who certainly can consume enormous quantities
+of alcohol with impunity. Besides, it would destroy a large source of
+the revenue, which Montenegro cannot afford to do. In the meantime the
+gallant three hundred feel very unhappy.</p>
+
+<p>The few days that we spent in Kola&#353;in were passed pleasantly in daily
+excursions into the surrounding country shooting, though with
+indifferent results. The Crown Prince Danilo's birthday came one day
+during our stay, and Governor, staff, and officials went to church
+attired in glorious raiment. They literally sparkle in gold lace
+embroidery, orders, and decorations, and for a gorgeous but absolutely
+tasteful effect commend me to the gala dress of the Montenegrin high
+official. It is the most artistic blending of gold, crimson, blue, and
+white.</p>
+
+<p>After the service spirits were served out free on the market-place
+(what agonies must the three hundred have suffered!), and a dance was
+formed. The national dance&mdash;in this instance the "kolo"&mdash;is usually
+performed by men, though the women do sometimes join in, and it is a
+slow and stately measure.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_30" id="image_30"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/230_1.jpg" width="500" height="357" alt="THE KOLA&#352;IN MARKET PLACE" title="THE KOLA&#352;IN MARKET PLACE" />
+<span class="caption">THE KOLA&#352;IN MARKET PLACE</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_31" id="image_31"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/230_2.jpg" width="500" height="356" alt="THE KOLO" title="THE KOLO" />
+<span class="caption">THE KOLO</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The men place their hands on each other's shoulders <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span>and form a
+ring, which, however, is never completed. New men can join in, but a
+space is always left open. One step is taken sideways to the left, and
+then three to the right, and the movement is accompanied by singing.
+The singers are three or four men on the opposite horns of the circle,
+who alternately chant verses in honour of the Prince.</p>
+
+<p>The ring of men slowly danced their way from the Market Square to the
+Governor's house, where more spirits were given, and an accordion
+player joined the ring.</p>
+
+<p>Loud cries of "&#381;ivio!" followed the cessation of every movement. We
+followed and went in to the Governor, to offer our congratulations and
+drink His Royal Highness's health. The room was quite full, two or
+three men being rough peasants, relations of the Governor. There is
+very little class distinction in Montenegro. Often the humblest
+peasant can claim relationship with the Voivoda, or Duke, of the
+province, and will always be cordially received.</p>
+
+<p>We felt quite ashamed of our appearance&mdash;leather coats, collarless
+shirts, and so forth&mdash;amongst such rich costumes. The complete outfit
+of a Montenegrin dandy costs over forty pounds, and takes a bit of
+beating.</p>
+
+<p>Carefully tucking our rough riding-boots under our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>chairs, to avoid
+marking the contrast with our host's resplendent jack-boots of
+patent-leather, and buttoning up our coat collars, we endeavoured to
+make ourselves as inconspicuous as possible in this brilliant
+assembly. But in spite of our tramp-like garb, we were always highly
+honoured guests.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+
+<h3>Montenegro's oldest building&mdash;The ride to the Mora&#269;a Monastery&mdash;A
+perilous bridge and ascent&mdash;The Abbot's tale&mdash;We inspect the
+monastery&mdash;The health of the King is drunk&mdash;The relative merits of
+Boers and Montenegrins&mdash;The Abbot makes us presents&mdash;We visit a
+peasant's house and a Homeric feast&mdash;A feu-de-joie&mdash;Departure from
+Kola&#353;in&mdash;We are mistaken for doctors again&mdash;Raskrsnica.</h3>
+
+
+<p>In Montenegro there are, strangely enough, with one famous exception,
+no buildings of any great antiquity. This, however, can be easily
+accounted for by the repeated invasions of the Turks, who ravaged the
+land with a merciless fury. Montenegro was the only Balkan state which
+they were unable to bring to obedience, and the struggle, which began
+after the battle of Kossovo, has, perhaps, not reached its final stage
+yet, though other enemies have supplanted the Turk.</p>
+
+<p>Far away in the heart of the mountains, and perched on the top of a
+high cliff, at whose feet the turbulent mountain torrent Mora&#269;a races
+past, there is situated a monastery, which takes its name from the
+river below.</p>
+
+<p>This monastery is the only building that has escaped the scourge of
+the Turk, and, though often attacked, only once has it been partially
+burnt. Like its famous sister at Ostrog, it is constructed in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span>position where Nature has provided the best means of defence, and
+this the hand of man has skilfully utilised and improved. It was
+founded in the year 1252 by one of the sons of the famous Servian
+king, Stephan Nemanja, and dedicated to S. Nicholas. Right well has
+the saint watched over and protected his feof.</p>
+
+<p>During our stay at Ostrog the Archbishop of Montenegro impressed upon
+us most strongly the necessity of visiting Mora&#269;a before leaving the
+country. He himself had lived there many years as the Archimandrite,
+and was besieged by the Turks during his sojourn within its walls.</p>
+
+<p>So, accompanied by a guide, with whom the Governor of Kola&#353;in had
+provided us, we made an early start one morning for the monastery. We
+had a perfect ride through dense beech forests, skirting a noisy
+little stream, of which we were able to obtain a glimpse every now and
+then through a break in the trees. On either side of the ravine the
+hills rose steeply to some height. We soon passed a lonely cross in a
+small clearing, erected to the memory of five Montenegrins who had
+been surprised and murdered there by the Turks.</p>
+
+<p>It is always so in Montenegro, when the traveller is filled with a
+sense of peace at the grandeur of the wild mountainous scenery, or the
+beauty of a sylvan forest glade, a rough cross, or cairn of stones,
+will <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span>be pointed out where men have met a sudden and violent death.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_32" id="image_32"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/235.jpg" width="400" height="558" alt="A TYPICAL ROAD" title="A TYPICAL ROAD" />
+<span class="caption">A TYPICAL ROAD</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Once, as our path led up a steep incline, our guide told us
+graphically how that, a few weeks ago, both a horse and its rider had
+fallen down the one hundred feet into the river below. The path was
+very narrow, and he strongly advised us in passing to take care, which
+remark seemed slightly superfluous after the vivid description with
+which he had just favoured us.</p>
+
+<p>Crossing the stream we dismounted, and climbed to a small grassy
+plateau on which a church is being built for the shepherds of the
+district. It commanded a beautiful view. The path now ascended to a
+great height, and much walking had to be done, for a ridge of hills
+lay between us and our destination. At the top the valley of the
+Mora&#269;a could be seen with a magnificent background of rugged
+mountains. A breakneck descent of two and a half hours, most of it on
+foot, brought us to the river, which was crossed by a picturesque and
+broken-down bridge. On a cliff opposite stood the monastery.</p>
+
+<p>While leading my horse over the bridge I chanced to rest for a moment
+on the central arch to enjoy the view. The guide, who was behind me,
+thrust me unceremoniously forward. It is not always safe to admire
+scenery from Montenegrin bridges. Certainly, on inspecting the bridge
+from below, he seemed to have shown no unnecessary caution. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>Two of
+the arches had completely given, and may collapse at any moment.</p>
+
+<p>A very steep and dangerous path leads up to the plateau on which the
+monastery is situated. It was nearly the cause of a serious accident
+to me, for my saddle gave, and began to slip backwards. Had the horse
+made one false step at this critical moment I should have been dashed
+over a precipice of eighty feet. Just before the gates stands a small
+inn, where we left our horses and proceeded on foot.</p>
+
+<p>The monastery strongly resembles a fortress, for the massive walls
+surrounding it are liberally loop-holed, and it can be entered from
+one side only. We entered a large courtyard with buildings on all
+sides. At the back a great mountain ascends obliquely, and in front an
+inaccessible precipice descends to the river. It was doubtless a tough
+morsel for the Turks in the olden days, though modern artillery would
+make very short work of it.</p>
+
+<p>The Archimandrite, or Abbot, soon came down and welcomed us most
+cordially, conducting us to his room, where we were regaled with the
+inevitable strong black coffee. He was a big, handsome man, with the
+long beard and hair which all the priests of the Greek Church wear.
+Quiet and benevolent as he looked, he is famed throughout the whole
+country as a mighty warrior; for in times of war the priests fight
+with the soldiers for their beloved freedom.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> Strangely enough, in
+the last war with Turkey he played an important role in saving the
+very monastery of which he is now the spiritual head. He was then a
+colonel, and commanded a battalion. The following story of the rout of
+the Turks is taken down from his own lips.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_33" id="image_33"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/239.jpg" width="500" height="307" alt="THE MORA&#268;A MONASTERY" title="THE MORA&#268;A MONASTERY" />
+<span class="caption">THE MORA&#268;A MONASTERY</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In those years (1876-7) all this district was in the hands of the
+Sultan, and the Turks had just made an unsuccessful attack upon the
+Monastery of Ostrog. Their army, under the command of the famous
+Mehmet Ali Pasha, was retreating on Kola&#353;in, pursued by the
+Montenegrins. On reaching the Monastery of Mora&#269;a they halted with the
+intention of first destroying it, and Mehmet Ali placed a battery in a
+commanding position on the opposite heights for the bombardment.</p>
+
+<p>Unknown to the Turks, half a battalion of Montenegrins were stationed
+there as garrison, and the Pasha, thinking that he had but a handful
+of priests to deal with, sent down a small detachment to effect an
+entrance. The gate was opened, and they were enticed inside. Hardly
+had the last man set his foot within the courtyard when the
+Montenegrins fell upon them and beheaded them every one.</p>
+
+<p>The Turks, deeming all safe, sent a second detachment to assist in
+bringing out the booty, and they met with a similar fate. Then Mehmet
+began to suspect that something was wrong, and made pre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>parations for
+a bombardment; but it was too late. A brigade of pursuing Montenegrins
+had come up. They fell upon him from flank and rear, and a horrid
+slaughter ensued.</p>
+
+<p>It must be confessed that the account seems incredible, and is,
+doubtless innocently enough, greatly exaggerated. But the worthy Abbot
+distinctly stated that out of 25,000 Turks only 2,000 or 3,000
+escaped. It was indeed "a terrible tale of a Turk that is ghastly and
+grim and gory." The Montenegrins were but men 1,800 strong, just three
+battalions, one of which was commanded by Michael Do&#382;i&#263;, the Abbot,
+and his battalion it was that took the Turks in the rear, throwing
+them into utter confusion.</p>
+
+<p>To-day the peasants still find heaps of bones in the crevices and
+hollows of the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>After this very pleasant story, we descended into the courtyard, which
+is formed in a semicircle. In the centre stands the church. It is
+built in the shape of a cross, and its porch and interior are
+gorgeously adorned with the most quaint frescoes; indeed, every
+particle of the walls and ceiling is covered with frescoes of the most
+crude design and vivid colouring, and the altar-screen is
+magnificently gilded. The colours are well preserved, and seem as
+fresh as when the monks first laid them on, for the painting all dates
+back to the time of the foundation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It was somewhat horrifying to find that the frescoes behind the
+altar-screen were completely scribbled over. At first we put this down
+to impious tourists who delight in leaving their miserable names on
+the most historical buildings; but, on closer inspection, we found
+that they were copious notes in the form of a diary. The Abbot told us
+that Mitrofan Ban, the Archbishop, had written them during his lengthy
+abbacy many years ago.</p>
+
+<p>There is another church, or rather tiny chapel, within the monastery
+which is about a century older than the rest of the buildings, and the
+interior is likewise covered with frescoes of the same crude and vivid
+painting. They represent scenes from the life of S. Nicholas, and the
+chapel is only used once a year during the pilgrimage which takes
+place on the feast of their patron saint.</p>
+
+<p>Every year large numbers of Montenegrins flock to the monastery to
+offer prayers and offerings. Just outside the walls stands a small
+cannon, with a Turkish inscription, which four Montenegrins carried
+away one night from Kola&#353;in when that town was in Turkish hands. Not
+only the bravado of such a deed, but the athletic feat of carrying
+such a weighty object over that difficult country, are very
+characteristic of this people. It is fired annually during the feast
+of S. Nicholas.</p>
+
+<p>The worthy Abbot was greatly annoyed to find <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span>that we had ordered food
+below, and still more when he heard that we were returning to Kola&#353;in
+the same afternoon. He repeatedly urged us to spend a few days with
+him, but, enjoyable as the visit would have been, previous engagements
+forbade our acceptance.</p>
+
+<p>A second priest waylaid us as we were leaving for our meal, and
+carried us off to his room, where more coffee was served. He had
+travelled much in Turkey and the Black Sea, and we had a very pleasant
+conversation, but, after a short time, the pangs of hunger forced us
+to excuse ourselves. Our humble meal, which we partook of in the best
+chamber (and only bedroom), was hardly over when the young priest
+again rejoined us, bringing with him an enormous bottle of wine. Very
+solemnly he filled our glasses, and proposed the health of His Majesty
+King Edward VII. Our surprise was so great that we almost forgot to
+drink. And then came many questions as to the progress of the Boer
+war, questions with which, by the way, we were often assailed by the
+more intelligent classes during our travels.</p>
+
+<p>To quote an instance which happened to myself once in Cetinje. While
+waiting outside the monastery for the appearance of the Prince, who
+was attending divine service within, I entered into conversation with
+a gendarme. We spoke of many things, and to my surprise, for he was
+but an ignorant <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span>peasant, he inquired as to the progress of the war.
+He asked the nature of the country, on which subject I was luckily
+able to enlighten him. Parts of it are not at all unlike Montenegro.
+At this he pricked up his ears.</p>
+
+<p>"Thou hast been to the Transvaal?" he asked with increased interest.
+"Are the people brave like we are?"</p>
+
+<p>"They are brave," I said, "but not as ye are. They only shoot at long
+distances, and object very strongly to hand-to-hand fighting."</p>
+
+<p>The stalwart Montenegrin looked puzzled.</p>
+
+<p>"Shooting is good," he answered; and after a pause he added, "at
+<i>first</i>, but that is not fighting. It is an empty glory to shoot one's
+enemy, if one cannot prove it afterwards." I knew he was alluding to
+the decapitating process. "And then the wild charge, the cutting with
+the handjar when rifles are thrown away&mdash;<i>that</i> is fighting."</p>
+
+<p>I explained that our soldiers loved the bayonet as much as the
+Montenegrin loved the handjar.</p>
+
+<p>"But what can you do when the other side won't wait for it?" I asked.</p>
+
+<p>"Then they are cowards," he answered judicially. "Are thy countrymen
+all as big as thou art?" he continued thoughtfully, feeling my biceps
+and scrutinising me closely.</p>
+
+<p>"Some of them are bigger," I said.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Then the Boers will have no chance," he said emphatically, and at
+this moment the Prince emerged from the church. This personal allusion
+to my size I took as a great compliment, for in a land where physical
+strength is an all-important factor candid appreciation of this kind
+is not meted out to one and all alike.</p>
+
+<p>Extremely fatigued after our early start and long ride, it was an
+effort to keep from falling asleep, and noticing this the priest left.
+We were both comfortably asleep in corners when the wretched landlord
+appeared with armfuls of sheets and pillows at the order of the
+priest. He cruelly woke us up and proceeded to make beds. After that
+all thought of sleep was gone. Furthermore, in dirty and dusty
+riding-clothes one has not the heart to lie down on spotlessly clean
+sheets.</p>
+
+<p>Soon afterwards the horses were ready, and we cantered up to the
+monastery to take our leave. But leave-taking was no such easy matter.
+Our pockets were filled with dried fruits, and after we were already
+in the saddle the Abbot presented us with packets of incense which he
+hurriedly fetched from the church. Waving him and the other fathers a
+last farewell, we started on our long ride back to Kola&#353;in.</p>
+
+<p>During our rambles in Kola&#353;in the doctor took us to a peasant's house
+whom he knew very well. This acquaintance proved one of our most
+pleasant <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>recollections of the country. The head of the house was a
+fine-looking man, lean and active, and possessed many decorations for
+past acts of bravery in the field. His son was in prison at the time
+for some political offence, but his daughter-in-law and two little
+babies, besides two or three unmarried daughters and sons, were living
+with him. The whole family outdid themselves in courtesy to us, and we
+were, as usual, considerably embarrassed by the behaviour of the
+women-folk. Though we went several times to the house, they would
+rarely seat themselves while we were present, and invariably kissed
+our hands in coming and going.</p>
+
+<p>The doctor played games of cards with our host, but the united efforts
+of P. and myself failed to discover any method or system in the game.
+The doctor tried to explain at first, but after five minutes we begged
+him to desist. So we sat and looked on, drinking cups of black coffee
+and endeavouring to make friendly overtures to the babies, who openly
+showed that they considered us distinctly dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>The house itself was curious. The ceiling was low and the walls were
+of great thickness. The windows were so small that it was barely
+possible to squeeze one's head through the opening. The idea of the
+house is to obtain the maximum amount of warmth, for the cold of these
+mountainous regions is intense <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span>in winter. In summer, however, these
+houses are delightfully cool.</p>
+
+<p>The evening before our departure from Kola&#353;in we were invited to an
+open-air feast at the peasant's country house.</p>
+
+<p>The "country house" was, it is true, only a rough wooden shanty, but,
+as our meal was outside, it didn't matter.</p>
+
+<p>When we arrived, after an hour's walk, we found a table set out with a
+white cloth and three wooden chairs on a green slope overlooking the
+valley of Kola&#353;in. It was a delightful spot. Some little distance away
+the last few turns were being given to a lamb roasted whole on a spit
+over an open fire.</p>
+
+<p>The feast was soon served up. The entire lamb, on a great wooden
+platter, an enormous bowl of milk, eggs, sheeps' cheese, and unlimited
+spirits. The women-folk waited on us and kept our platters full. Other
+men with their wives joined us, not to partake of this Homeric feast,
+but to see us gorge ourselves. It may not be a nice expression, but we
+were literally forced to eat to an uncomfortable state of repletion.
+They took no denial, and even then the lamb was not nearly finished.
+These mountaineers eat meat only on great festivals, and consume
+enough to last them for the next few months. They did not realise that
+we were content with sufficient to last us for the next few hours.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Our glasses, too, were kept replenished with the potent spirit of the
+land, and our respective healths were drunk, on the average, once
+every three minutes. When this began to pall they toasted each other,
+in which we had naturally to join, and these were followed by
+patriotic toasts. It was rather an uproarious evening.</p>
+
+<p>About ten we took our leave, and our hosts drew their pocket cannons
+and started firing; we naturally replied, and a deafening fusillade
+went on till every man had emptied his revolver. With singing ears we
+returned to our hotel to find the town alarmed, excited groups were
+congregated in the Market Square. Our <i>feu-de-joie</i> was speedily
+explained, and the men flocked into the inn. As a slight return for
+the fright we had given them, we paid for a few quarts of spirits. The
+Governor overlooked our law-breaking, for after dark firing is not
+allowed, and no doubt he envied us in his heart, for, poor man, he is
+in the clutches of the Band of Good Hope, much, we heard, to his
+disgust.</p>
+
+<p>We left next day, and had a hearty send-off from the town, who turned
+out <i>en masse</i> to witness our departure. The local doctor was not
+present. We had found no favour in his eyes.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after leaving the town we passed the Montenegrin Militia, hard
+at their weekly drill. No uniform is worn, every man coming in his
+everyday <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>clothes, bringing only his rifle. But they drill very well
+and the discipline is excellent. A company was being dismissed as we
+came up, and a large number accompanied us for a long way.</p>
+
+<p>The ride was magnificent that afternoon. The way wound up and up, and
+our last glimpse of Kola&#353;in showed us the little town far away below
+us.</p>
+
+<p>The usual Montenegrin trick was again played successfully on us, the
+"only two hours' ride" developing into a journey of six hours. But
+to-day we did not murmur; it is only at the end of a long and trying
+day that this style of humour is out of place.</p>
+
+<p>For two hours our path threaded its way through dense beech forests.
+At one spot P. and I had ridden on so far in advance of the others
+that we dismounted and waited for them to come up. In the interval I
+was assailed by a man with a bandaged head. Doctors always wear
+European clothes in Montenegro, and without further inquiry, this man
+proceeded to sit down before me and remove his bandages, disclosing
+ultimately a ghastly eye.</p>
+
+<p>"What must I do for it, Gospodin Doctor?" he asked at length, for
+beyond the usual greeting he had not spoken. One glance was
+sufficient, and P. got up and left us.</p>
+
+<p>"Take it away!" I said, with averted face. "I am not a doctor, and
+never shall be."</p>
+
+<p>I felt him looking at me with his uninjured eye. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span>These simple
+peasants are always under the impression that our modern education
+comprises that of medicine.</p>
+
+<p>"But, Gospodin, it has been like this for weeks," he went on, "and is
+very painful."</p>
+
+<p>"There is a doctor at Kola&#353;in. Go to him. <i>He</i> will be pleased."</p>
+
+<p>Evidently much hurt at my indifference, he slowly replaced his
+bandages and departed. Then our party caught us up, and we continued
+our way.</p>
+
+<p>Later on we emerged from the woods, and, still climbing, we rode for
+the remaining distance on magnificent grassy slopes far above the
+forest belt. Several snow-patches still lay unmelted in the shady
+hollows, and often far below us. From this ridge we obtained our first
+good view of the lofty Kom, the second highest mountain in Montenegro,
+and our ultimate destination.</p>
+
+<p>These great downs, across which we rode, had been only thrown open to
+the public, so to say, a few days ago, and were full of flocks of
+sheep and goats and large herds of cattle, grazing to their hearts'
+content after their long winter's imprisonment in the villages below.
+The Government fix the date when the shepherds may migrate into the
+mountain pasturages and when they must leave again for the lowlands.</p>
+
+<p>We overtook or met several parties of Montenegrins, and even Turks,
+for the border is not far distant, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span>travelling from place to place. We
+were viewed with obvious interest, and invariably greeted with
+respect, though there is nothing of subservience in a Montenegrin's
+salute. He feels himself in no way your inferior as a man until you
+have proved your superiority in shooting or physical strength.</p>
+
+<p>In this part of the country Dr. S. always told the peasants that we
+were engineers, as a road is being contemplated.</p>
+
+<p>About seven p.m. we branched off from the main path, and descended on
+foot a steep path into a thickly wooded valley. In a clearing of the
+trees stood a collection of wooden huts, a summer village of
+shepherds, called Raskrsnica.</p>
+
+<p>It was our halting-place, and as our visit had been notified, we were
+received by a schoolmaster and taken to his hut, which was placed at
+our disposal.</p>
+
+<p>No schools are held during the summer months, and the teachers often
+turn shepherds, as in this case, and migrate with their flocks to the
+mountains.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_34" id="image_34"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/254.jpg" width="500" height="355" alt="OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA" title="OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA" />
+<span class="caption">OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+
+<h3>A typical mountain hut&mdash;Costume of the north-eastern borderers&mdash;Supper
+and a song&mdash;We go out hunting, and cause excitement&mdash;The Feast of
+Honour&mdash;We ride to Andrijevica&mdash;Andrijevica and our inn&mdash;The
+Voivoda&mdash;We go to church&mdash;Turkish visitors&mdash;Alarums.</h3>
+
+
+<p>It was nearly dark by the time that we were unloaded and had got our
+traps into our hut. As half our time was spent in similar
+constructions during our mountain tour, it may be as well to describe
+them now.</p>
+
+<p>They are usually built entirely of wood, rough, irregularly hewn
+planks, and no attempt is made to make them air-tight; often great
+crevices gape, through which a hand can be put. The roof is generally
+fairly water-tight. A man <i>can</i> stand up-right in the middle, but the
+roof slopes steeply down to the sides. The word "can" is used
+advisedly, <i>i.e.</i> if one is able to breathe the densely smoky
+atmosphere at the top. Chimneys or outlets in the roof to permit the
+smoke to escape are unknown, and when cooking is going on, or at night
+when a roaring fire is kept burning, the appearance of the hut from
+outside gives a stranger the impression <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>that it is on fire, and that
+the flames must burst out at any moment. It leaks smoke at every
+crevice.</p>
+
+<p>Inside is an open space reserved for the wood fire, and a primitive
+arrangement, often a chain suspended from the roof, for hanging the
+cooking pot. A few blocks of wood serve as easy-chairs, beds there are
+none, an armful of rushes or grass, which is usually damp, serving
+their purpose. On entering, the new-comer will first cough violently,
+then choke, and finally make a hurried exit to the fresh air.
+Summoning courage and with a fresh supply of oxygen, he dashes into
+the hut again, and throws himself on his heap of rushes. As the smoke
+rises, the atmosphere on the ground is less dense, but the penetrating
+smell of the burning wood is sufficiently strong to make his eyes pour
+with water. These are first impressions; later on, he can even sit up,
+and after a few days will be able to walk comparatively slowly in and
+out of the hut.</p>
+
+<p>Usually at the back is a small partition, behind which a rough shelf
+can be found, laden with the day's milking and cheese. The whole
+family sleep in the hut, no division separating the men from the
+women. But the Montenegrin peasant sleeps in his clothes, so privacy
+is considered unnecessary.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. S. was here officially to inspect the flocks, and had an
+appointment with the district captain. He was not there, and shortly
+after our arrival a man <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>turned up, delivering a message from the
+captain, somewhat in the following fashion.</p>
+
+<p>"Sir, it is my privilege to be the bearer of the captain's message.
+The captain would have you know that he will do himself the honour to
+meet you here to-morrow in the early morning."</p>
+
+<p>The man stood smartly at the attention and saluted at the conclusion.</p>
+
+<p>It is extraordinary the grandiloquent language which even the most
+humble peasant will use, and he speaks with the polished ease of a
+gentleman.</p>
+
+<p>The baggy blue breeches and red jackets are not worn in these regions,
+and are replaced by white woollen tight-fitting trousers and jackets,
+bordered with black braid. In fact, the dress strongly resembles that
+worn by the Albanians, except that the black braid is narrower and
+less elaborate, and the national cap of Montenegro is carried instead
+of the white head-cloth or fez. The costume is national, and has not
+been altered to that of the Montenegrin proper, because it is
+considered warmer. The first time that Prince Nicolas visited his new
+subjects a man said to him in that characteristically familiar way in
+which the Prince's subjects are wont to address him:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Gospodar" ("Lord," and the universal form of address for the reigning
+Prince), "wilt thou not exchange thy blue breeches for our white
+trousers. They would suit thee better."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The answer of the Prince is not recorded.</p>
+
+<p>Stephan called us into our shanty when the evening meal was ready. Our
+host wished to slaughter a lamb, but we deferred that till the morrow,
+and we ate what we had brought with us. It was, barring the smoke, a
+delightful experience, and its charm never diminished. That hour spent
+before turning in, after supper, when the tobacco tins circulate, and
+the shepherds crowd in from the neighbouring huts, made an impression
+which it will not be easy to forget.</p>
+
+<p>The fire, with its dancing flames and uneven light, shows up the ring
+of men squatting round it. Everything beyond is shrouded in
+impenetrable gloom, throwing out the wild picturesque figures, with
+their bronzed and honest faces, in bold relief. The ruddy glare rounds
+off all hard corners and softens every inharmonious line, flashing
+fitfully here and there on a steel revolver barrel. The musical voices
+rise and fall, and outside the stars are shining. All is peace and
+calm.</p>
+
+<p>That first evening a young shepherd, strikingly handsome, with
+clean-cut features, went outside and sang a wild Albanian song in our
+honour, his weird chanting echoing in the mountains. Then came a
+crackling of pistol-shots from the near distance, a novel way of
+applause. With very happy feelings we rolled ourselves in our great
+coats and went to sleep.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Next morning we rose at five, and had a delightful wash in a stream of
+icy-cold water. As usual, our ablutions caused much amusement. The
+mountaineer contents himself with a ladle of water poured into his
+hands. Very shortly afterwards the captain arrived. He insisted on
+going out shooting with us, as well as the schoolmaster. We plunged
+into the forest and were soon deep in the excitement of stalking.</p>
+
+<p>P. was with the captain, and the schoolmaster and myself soon lost
+them. Later on, I too lost my companion, and it being near our
+advertised time for dining, I made my way back, which presented very
+little difficulty. On coming in view of the clearing I was received
+with shouts. Not being gifted with the Montenegrin skill at hearing
+and talking at great distances I walked on, and was ultimately able to
+distinguish the question as to where I had left P. I answered that I
+had not seen him for hours, and passed on to our hut.</p>
+
+<p>The excitement seemed to wax, and Dr. S. speedily enlightened me as to
+the cause. Both the captain and the schoolmaster had returned, <i>i.e.</i>
+they had stood and talked from a hill about a mile away, saying that
+P. was lost.</p>
+
+<p>"Well," I said, "P. knows at what time we eat, and I have never known
+him to be late for a meal yet. And it is in an hour's time."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"But the woods are dangerous. There are bears. The Albanian frontier
+is not far away. He can lose himself for hours," were among the
+remarks that I could hear.</p>
+
+<p>"Considering that he has a magazine carbine and a revolver, I don't
+think that we need be afraid. It is easy enough to find one's way
+back, and P. will have the sense to watch the sun. He has been out
+alone before in his life," I remarked, feeling rather irritated.</p>
+
+<p>Then an old lady began abusing me for having deserted him, "and he so
+young, a mere child," etc., until I fairly lost my temper.</p>
+
+<p>"You must not take it amiss," explained the doctor, who knew me. "It
+is only their love for you."</p>
+
+<p>"Thanks," said I. "But that is enough. If that old lady doesn't stop
+expressing her love for me shortly &mdash;&mdash;. Look here, doctor," I
+continued, waxing wrath, "you stop her. You understand the more
+talkative sex better than I do. I'll stop the men."</p>
+
+<p>About ten minutes before dinner P. turned up, serenely unconscious of
+the trouble, telling us how he had found a delightful shepherd, who
+had carried him off to his shanty and feasted him on bread and milk,
+but that he was still ravenously hungry. The incident did not close
+here either. When P. heard of the anxiety caused by his absence he
+took it as a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span>personal insult to himself, and began abusing everyone
+in his turn. But all the same, the people remained obdurate, and we
+were never left alone, though they let us ramble whither we wished.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner that day was a kind of feast of honour to the captain. The
+lamb was served, as usual, whole. Half a dozen men joined us besides
+our party. The doctor, P., and I had knives and forks and a plate
+apiece.</p>
+
+<p>"Help yourself to all you want at the beginning," said the doctor
+kindly. "Take as much as you think you can possibly stow away."</p>
+
+<p>We were glad afterwards that we had followed the doctor's advice, for
+when we had finished helping ourselves the men fell upon that lamb and
+rent it limb from limb with their horny hands. Montenegrins have not
+pretty table manners. Forks are superfluous, a hunting-knife will do
+for the bread, and spoons are only used for fluids, when they dip in
+the common bowl.</p>
+
+<p>That evening we went out shooting in another direction, and were amply
+rewarded for an exceeding tiring climb, although deer were not
+abundant. In fact, the moment that the shepherds take possession of
+the mountains, game nearly always disappears, returning with the peace
+and solitariness of the autumn.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we left Raskrsnica at an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span>early hour <i>en route</i>
+for Andrijevica, which lies at a considerably lower altitude than
+Kola&#353;in. Consequently we had a lot of downhill work. We had another
+magnificent view of the Kom on our way, but otherwise our ride of
+about six hours was uneventful. Andrijevica is first seen from a great
+height, and really looks quite close.</p>
+
+<p>"Half an hour," said our guides, "will see us in the town."</p>
+
+<p>The descent was of a breakneck description, and had to be done on
+foot. The heat was tremendous, and, the way proving to be an hour and
+a half, our tempers suffered. It was about noon when we rode into the
+little town or village, for it is nothing more, though the capital of
+the Vasovi&#263; district, Montenegro's most eastern and consequently most
+dangerous possession. It borders on Gusinje, the wildest and fiercest
+of Albania's clans.</p>
+
+<p>The office of the Governor, or Voivoda, to give him his proper
+Montenegrin title, corresponding to our word Duke, is therefore no
+sinecure. His position calls for more diplomacy and acumen than any
+other in the country. A false move, a thoughtless action or word could
+plunge the tribes of Northern Albania and Montenegro in a fierce
+warfare. But a few weeks after our departure, war very nearly did
+break out at Mokra, over a dispute as to the rights of a small
+grazing-ground, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span>was only averted at the last moment. Then
+Andrijevica was full of troops, for 25,000 Albanians stood fully armed
+on the border, and a pistol-shot would have started an invasion of
+Montenegro.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_35" id="image_35"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/264.jpg" width="500" height="274" alt="ANDRIJEVICA" title="ANDRIJEVICA" />
+<span class="caption">ANDRIJEVICA</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The little township is prettily situated on a slight eminence at the
+junction of the Lim and the Peru&#353;ica, the former a tributary of the
+Danube. It has a population of five hundred clad in the white Albanian
+dress, and is celebrated, rightly or wrongly, for the beauty of its
+women. Certainly our landlady was a pretty enough looking woman of
+most refined manners. The men are very fine-looking fellows. The
+country all round is magnificent.</p>
+
+<p>Our inn was also the town bakery, and we had a nice large bedroom well
+stocked with flies, and real beds, though in daytime it was the dining
+and drawing-room combined.</p>
+
+<p>Really many of the inns we visited in Montenegro could be aptly
+described by the song sung in London a few years ago of a coster
+describing his home. He informed the audience that if they wanted to
+see his library, his kitchen, or his best spare bedroom, "You just
+stops where you is." In slightly more grammatical language, it could
+be well applied to these hostels.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening we were taken and presented to Voivoda Laki&#263; Voivodi&#263;,
+who was sitting in semi-state before the house of a rival
+drinking-place.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>He had a remarkably strong face, and was of powerful build. Speedily
+we were introduced to his adjutant, the town captain, and other
+officials, and a great circle was formed of which we were the centre
+of attraction. Our arms were brought out and examined with great glee
+and appreciation; also our field-glasses came in for their usual share
+of admiration, and our clothes were likewise carefully overhauled.</p>
+
+<p>When we laughingly said that we hoped for some sport with the
+Albanians and perhaps to shoot a few, our popularity was complete; our
+backs were clapped, and a great scene of joy and enthusiasm took
+place. Such remarks are liable to be taken rather literally in this
+region.</p>
+
+<p>We gave the Voivoda and his adjutant a dinner one evening, the best
+that we could manage, though it certainly was not the kind of feast to
+which one would ordinarily invite a Duke.</p>
+
+<p>Being five of us, our table was not big enough, so we joined on a
+second smaller and lower table at which the doctor and P. sat. P. put
+a salt-cellar between the upper table and the lower, saying that as
+they now sat "below the salt," they could behave as they liked. It was
+a most uproarious meal, and later on the Voivoda retired to a bed
+which was just behind him to laugh himself out.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_36" id="image_36"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/268.jpg" width="500" height="349" alt="CHURCH PARADE" title="CHURCH PARADE" />
+<span class="caption">CHURCH PARADE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On Sunday we went to church&mdash;at least we went<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span><i>to</i> the church and
+met the Voivoda outside. It was a very hot day and the little edifice
+was crowded. We had a suspicion that the worthy Voivoda came late on
+purpose. He just glanced at the crowd which had overflowed into the
+open space before the door, and to the relief of his staff proposed a
+quiet cup of coffee instead. Under the shade of the trees, discreetly
+apart from the merrymakers who were celebrating the Mass of a departed
+comrade, we sat in the customary ring and were served with coffee. It
+was a pleasant hour, and as the Voivoda, who was a bit of a wit, if
+somewhat irreverent, said, "This is better than inside."</p>
+
+<p>The church was about a quarter of a mile from the town and lay almost
+hid in a beautiful wood. The bells, as is often the case, were hung
+about a hundred yards away from the church on a wood scaffolding, and
+on the green grass sat many groups of Montenegrins.</p>
+
+<p>The occasion was a feast. Mass was being said for the soul of a man
+who had recently died, and it is the custom for the dead man's
+relations to give a feast to all comers. Large dishes of roast lamb
+were being handed round to the men who sat in circles, the women
+eating apart, and much spirit was drunk. About six priests were also
+present, feasting.</p>
+
+<p>We had altogether a very merry stay in Andri<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span>jevica, and the men of
+Vasovi&#263; are sturdy, honest, fearless, and excellent companions.</p>
+
+<p>Once, as I was admiring an old pistol worn by a man who was visiting
+us&mdash;for men were continually dropping in on us at any hour, in a most
+unceremonious fashion&mdash;he promptly took it off and gave it to me. It
+had been carried thirty years by a priest, he told me, before it came
+into his possession, and had killed at least twenty men. Afterwards I
+gave him a present of six florins.</p>
+
+<p>There are no police in Andrijevica, but the population take their turn
+to patrol the town at night with rifles. This is not to keep order
+amongst themselves, but as a guard against an eventual raid of
+Albanians. Crime is unknown in this mountain town.</p>
+
+<p>One afternoon we were startled to see half a dozen Turkish officers
+ride into the town, accompanied by an escort of Turkish soldiers, all
+fully armed. They were proceeding to Gusinje, where fighting had been
+taking place and many men had been killed. It is very curious to
+observe the way that the Turkish and Montenegrin authorities visit
+each other, for the intricate formation of the border often
+necessitates the traversing of a small portion of the other's country.
+Owing to the danger, everyone goes fully armed. The greatest possible
+harmony reigns between the Turks and Montenegrins, as the formidable
+array of Turkish decorations which adorn the breasts of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span>all
+Montenegrin border officials will testify. The Albanian is the only
+cause of trouble, and it is chiefly against him that the Albanian
+borders are garrisoned by Turkish troops.</p>
+
+<p>In the above-mentioned border dispute, the Turks sent down a
+formidable army to assist the Montenegrins and prevent an incursion
+into a friendly state. Truly things have changed very much, for it was
+not so very many years ago that Albania held aloof when Turk and
+Montenegrin were fighting. Their sympathies, if for either side, were
+with the Montenegrins, and now the hated Turk throws himself into the
+balance for Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>No man goes any distance unarmed. A rifle is part and parcel of his
+being. So it is that visiting Albanians carry theirs too, and it is no
+uncommon sight to see eight or ten Gusinje men, conspicuous by their
+white head-cloths, rifles slung over their shoulders, and a girdle of
+cartridges, come into Andrijevica to market, or perhaps even to
+consult the Voivoda on a question of blood-guilt.</p>
+
+<p>No one knows in these parts when an alarm will be given, either by
+trumpet-call or rapid magazine firing, and each man must be ever
+prepared to hurry to the appointed rendezvous at a moment's notice. If
+he be guarding his flock, eating at home, or carrying produce to the
+market, it is the same; his rifle must be ready to his hand and
+everything left stand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span>ing to answer the call to arms. Life is very
+real on these turbulent borders, and a chance dispute may assemble a
+brigade of Montenegrins and a horde of Albanians, each ready to attack
+the other on the spot. The shepherd private knows where to find his
+section commander, the latter, on completion of his section, meets his
+company officer, companies assemble, battalions form, and the brigade
+is ready within an hour or two.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the state of affairs to-day along the whole Albanian frontier,
+but nowhere to such a degree as in the provinces bordering on Gusinje.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+
+<h3>The Voivoda's invitation&mdash;Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika&mdash;The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story&mdash;We arrive at
+Velika&mdash;The men of Velika&mdash;The m&eacute;nu&mdash;Border jurisdiction&mdash;A
+shooting-match&mdash;The Kom&mdash;Pleasant evenings&mdash;A young
+philosopher&mdash;Sunset.</h3>
+
+
+<p>One evening the Voivoda invited us to ride with him on an official
+visit to Velika, an offer which we eagerly accepted.</p>
+
+<p>Velika is a narrow strip of Montenegrin territory lying practically in
+Albania, or rather Gusinje, for the men of Gusinje owe and give no
+allegiance. Velika is not cut off from Montenegro, but the mountain
+connecting it with, so to speak, the mainland is steep and almost
+inaccessible, besides entailing a long and weary d&eacute;tour of many hours.
+Therefore our path to-day would lead us across an intervening strip of
+Gusinje territory.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning at an early hour saw us in our saddles, the Voivoda
+having first ascertained that our arms were in good order. "Not that
+there is any danger," he said. "But we never know if anything may
+happen, and it is well just to be prepared."</p>
+
+<p>Besides the Voivoda, we were accompanied by his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span>adjutant, a
+lieutenant in the standing army, who had studied in Italy, and an
+escort of about six men, armed with modern magazine rifles. Later on,
+this escort was materially increased.</p>
+
+<p>About three hours' ride up the magnificent valley of the Lim brought
+us to a khan, and here we found another half-dozen men awaiting us,
+and another officer. These preparations seemed rather formidable for a
+journey of about an hour through a friendly country, but we knew
+already the uncertainty of the Albanian temper, and did not wonder.</p>
+
+<p>As we led our horses across a rickety wooden bridge, the Voivoda
+called to us and said we were now about to enter Albania, and spoke of
+the temporary armed alliance between England and Montenegro, which
+remark seemed to please him greatly. A great cairn of stones marked
+the border, and the adjutant reined in his horse, for we were going to
+ride in single file, to tell us that it would be better to unsling our
+carbines. "It looked better," he said. Many Albanians could be seen
+working peacefully in their fields, and huts dotted the
+mountain-sides. It was a scene of agricultural peace, enhanced by
+magnificent scenery.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly, at some distance, two rifle-shots were distinctly heard, and
+the calm of the picture was as rudely and suddenly disturbed as if an
+earthquake had happened. The peaceful peasants stooped, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span>throwing away
+the spade, and in exchange each had a Martini rifle in his hand, which
+he rapidly loaded from the bandolier of cartridges round his waist.
+Men rushed out of the slumbering cottages, and a great shouting
+commenced.</p>
+
+<p>"It is nothing," said the adjutant. "They become excited like this
+very often."</p>
+
+<p>But I noticed our escort closing in, and every man's face wore a look
+of great interest. Still we rode on, just as if nothing unusual were
+happening.</p>
+
+<p>To our left the hill ascended to a great height, and about one-third
+of the way up a belt of trees commenced, stretching to the top.
+Towards this wood ran hundreds of Albanians, and disappeared from
+view. I confess that I had a most uncomfortable feeling that I was
+being covered by many unseen rifles. We should have stood a poor
+chance had they begun firing at us, for there was practically no cover
+near.</p>
+
+<p>But our pace, that of a smart walk, neither increased nor decreased,
+and it ill became me to show my innermost feelings to these fearless
+mountaineers who so evidently considered this sudden excitement a most
+everyday occurrence.</p>
+
+<p>The noise of the shouting, however, continued, and was answered by men
+in all directions. It was a regular pandemonium of yelling fiends, for
+the Albanians are not beautiful to look upon.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Suddenly a man appeared from some bushes close to our little party and
+headed straight for us, running like a deer.</p>
+
+<p>He had barely reached us and seized my stirrup leather, on which he
+hung, panting heavily, when from the woods emerged a pursuing crowd,
+brandishing their rifles as they ran. Within a few minutes we were
+surrounded by about a hundred and fifty Albanians, whose gestures were
+not to be misunderstood.</p>
+
+<p>They wanted to kill the man at my stirrup, who looked beseechingly up
+to me for protection. Why he selected me I have no idea, and I did not
+relish the compliment at all. Our escort formed a meagre ring around
+us, and we were forced to halt.</p>
+
+<p>"Are they going to shoot?" I asked the adjutant, who was next to me,
+in excusable excitement, "because if so, I would like to dismount."</p>
+
+<p>It was not a pleasant feeling, perched up on a horse within fifty
+yards of reputed good marksmen.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh no," answered the officer, "they only want the man, not you."</p>
+
+<p>"Still, you are not going to hand back the man, are you?" I asked in
+Italian.</p>
+
+<p>"We must hear what the Voivoda says," said the adjutant, shrugging his
+shoulders.</p>
+
+<p>I looked at the man, while an excited conversation was carried on by
+our party and the Albanians, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span>and found him a pleasant-looking young
+man; his breath was coming in great gasps from his heaving breast, but
+otherwise he showed no traces of excitement.</p>
+
+<p>"Save me," he said in broken Serb. "They fired at me as I was working
+in my field. I am blood-guilty."</p>
+
+<p>All this time his pursuers were evidently debating if our lives must
+be sacrificed as well, for to shoot the man meant killing some of us
+at any rate.</p>
+
+<p>At this juncture several Albanians came to us and ranged themselves on
+our side, and amidst still greater excitement we began again moving
+forward.</p>
+
+<p>"It is all right," laughed the adjutant, who throughout preserved the
+same air of utter indifference. "They daren't shoot, the cowards, and
+we shall take him to Velika with us, and then decide what to do with
+him."</p>
+
+<p>"You don't seem to mind this sort of thing much," I said, "but for a
+beginner like myself it appears rather nervous work."</p>
+
+<p>"Oh no," he answered. "I live here, and have been in many border
+fights. They always make a noise like that, and they very seldom shoot
+at big people."</p>
+
+<p>"But if they do?" I queried.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, well, we must all die once," he laughed.</p>
+
+<p>In another half-hour we passed the second land<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span>mark, and were informed
+we were again in Montenegrin territory. Our friendly Albanians left
+us, and rifles were more carelessly carried.</p>
+
+<p>"What hast thou done?" I asked the fugitive at my stirrup. "Tell me
+thy story."</p>
+
+<p>"I am a doomed man; my days are numbered," he said, smiling, and
+rolling a cigarette. "But life is sweet, and I wish to live a little
+longer."</p>
+
+<p>Strange, this man who was at death's door barely an hour ago, was
+smiling and smoking happily as he walked by my side. He had a most
+fascinating smile and laughing eyes, and now that the immediate danger
+was over he had forgotten it.</p>
+
+<p>"Some months ago in my village, many hours from here, a woman fell in
+love with me," he said. "She was beautiful and I loved her too, but
+not so much as she loved me, for I feared her. She hated her husband,
+who beat her. One evening she came to me when her husband was away and
+told me that she loved me and that we would fly together. 'I love thee
+as I hate my husband, and see, if thou wilt not do this, I will break
+my spinning-wheel before thee.' And I trembled, for now I knew that my
+life was doomed. For should I not take her, she must kill me as sure
+as there is a God in heaven, and if I fled with her, her husband and
+his relations would surely track me down. And she was very beautiful,
+and we must <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span>all die. So we fled here that same night. What could I
+do?" he asked, smiling again.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_37" id="image_37"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/280.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="VELIKA" title="VELIKA" />
+<span class="caption">VELIKA</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"But why stay here?" I asked.</p>
+
+<p>"Because," he answered, "my brothers live here and I must stay here
+till I die. If I am not to be found, then my brothers must die for me.
+It will not last long, for there are many bags of money on my head. My
+enemy is a rich man."</p>
+
+<p>"But," he went on, "wilt thou ask the Voivoda, who is a good man, to
+give me a magazine rifle and some cartridges? See my rifle, it is old,
+and I have but five cartridges left. For thee he will do it, and so I
+can die fighting a good fight, and perhaps can kill two or three of my
+enemies first. To-day I have wounded one."</p>
+
+<p>"I will ask the Voivoda," I replied, "though I doubt if I have any
+influence with him. Ask him thyself."</p>
+
+<p>I did ask the Voivoda, but he said the thing was impossible. He had no
+rifles to give away. But our fugitive continued his request at
+intervals for the rest of the time that he was with us.</p>
+
+<p>At Velika, a collection of half a dozen houses, very charmingly
+situated in a valley, we halted and rested for many hours while the
+Voivoda transacted business and received reports from a very young
+officer who held this dangerous command. We commented on his youth,
+and were told that his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span>father, recently dead, had held the position,
+and that he had inherited it. "Besides," continued our informant, "he
+is quite up to his work."</p>
+
+<p>As we dismounted, our escort unloaded their rifles, the snapping of
+locks and breeches bringing the excitement of the last hour or two
+vividly back to our memory.</p>
+
+<p>The men of Velika were fierce-looking and of great stature. Rifle,
+handjar, and revolver were carried by all. Our escort were equally
+fine men, that fearless look so characteristic of the Montenegrin
+race, being accentuated here. Yet the faces are pleasing, honest, and
+good-tempered. There is to be found in the world no more splendid
+specimens of fighting humanity than the Montenegrin borderer. Brave,
+reckless to a fault, with absolutely no fear of death, inured to every
+hardship, and able to live and thrive on the barest fare, they are
+typical of the old Viking, chivalrous and courteous, with the purest
+blood of the Balkans flowing in their veins.</p>
+
+<p>Our meal was sumptuous. Fish shot in the river by one of our escort on
+the way, a bowl of ground maize cooked in oil, raw ham, eggs, bread,
+cheese and onions, the whole washed down in draughts of fiery spirits.
+Not a feast, I grant you, in an epicurean sense, but highly acceptable
+in Montenegro. We were waited upon by two women, who <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>were always most
+careful to leave the room backwards. Our meal was very jolly, and at
+its conclusion we took corners in the room and slept. About three p.m.
+we started again for home, taking the fugitive with us.</p>
+
+<p>He had decided to return to his farm, but as we neared the Gusinje
+strip of land where he lived the extreme nervous tension of the
+morning returned to him. Poor devil, it would be difficult to forget
+the sharp sighs which burst from him, when his control over himself
+left him for a moment, but it was with a smile and a cigarette between
+his lips that he left us, bounding over the ground like a deer.</p>
+
+<p>In all probability he is dead by now.</p>
+
+<p>In Gusinje we made a lengthy halt, while the Voivoda settled several
+boundary disputes between the inhabitants, our escort taking up
+commanding positions all round us and keeping a very sharp look-out.</p>
+
+<p>It would seem that the Voivoda has right of jurisdiction in this strip
+of land, though how we were unable to elicit. At any rate Albanians
+came and stated their cases, bringing witnesses, and amongst great
+noise the Voivoda gave his judgments, which seemed to be final.</p>
+
+<p>On re-entering Montenegro we dismounted on the bank of the River Lim;
+the Voivoda pointed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span>out a stone on the opposite side about three
+hundred yards distance, and taking a rifle he fired at it. In a few
+seconds we were all shooting at it in turn, the Voivoda acting as
+umpire with the aid of my field-glasses. It seemed a risky thing to do
+in a country so easily alarmed, but no rapid firing was allowed.</p>
+
+<p>The shooting was moderately good.</p>
+
+<p>As the last shot had been fired, and some of us already mounted, a
+corporal from Andrijevica came up at a trot, bringing a telegram for
+the adjutant. It contained the notification of his promotion to a
+captain.</p>
+
+<p>This led to a salvo of revolver-shots and cheers, and we proceeded on
+our way.</p>
+
+<p>At the first khan (Morina) we stopped for coffee, and found two or
+three hundred men assembled under the command of the district captain.
+Had anything happened to us, revenge would have come very quickly.
+Here our additional escort left us, and our long ride home was
+commenced, which ended in the dark.</p>
+
+<p>It was a nasty ride, for both P. and Stephan's horses came down
+repeatedly, and the path was constantly about two hundred feet above
+the Lim. It requires care in the daytime, but in the uncertain light
+of evening it was distinctly dangerous. Both horses were done up, and
+Stephan lost his temper,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span>and we saw him in his true colours, as
+he kicked and beat his unlucky animal. It was not till I took very
+energetic measures that he would stop, which amused the Voivoda
+immensely.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_38" id="image_38"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/285_1.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="MORINA" title="MORINA" />
+<span class="caption">MORINA</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_39" id="image_39"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/285_2.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA" title="THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA" />
+<span class="caption">THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_40" id="image_40"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/288_1.jpg" width="500" height="270" alt="THE VASOJEYI&#262;KI KOM" title="THE VASOJEYI&#262;KI KOM" />
+<span class="caption">THE VASOJEYI&#262;KI KOM</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_41" id="image_41"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/288_2.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVI&#262;A" title="ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVI&#262;A" />
+<span class="caption">ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVI&#262;A</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>P.'s horse was ill&mdash;in fact, it was his last journey. A few days
+afterwards he died from inflammation of the lungs, contracted at
+Velika that day.</p>
+
+<p>We went for a few days' shooting on the Vasojevi&#263;ki Kom, and were
+handed over by the Voivoda to one called Vaso, a rich peasant of the
+district. He swore to be answerable for our safety, with his head and
+all that was his, and we lived with him for many days on the side of
+the mighty mountain.</p>
+
+<p>The shooting was not good, however; it was not the season, but
+otherwise our stay was very pleasant. The grassy plateau was about
+five thousand feet high and bitterly cold at night; below us, on
+either side, stretched great beech forests, and the Kom rose abruptly
+before us.</p>
+
+<p>Our hut was large and roomy, but draughty to an extreme. At night the
+icy wind whistled through its crevices, and we had to bury our heads
+in blankets. The whole family shared it with us, and in one corner
+stood an unwearied calf, too tender to brave the cold of the outside.</p>
+
+<p>Those evenings which we spent round the fire are impossible to
+describe adequately. Tired from a long day's tramping and sliding
+through the forests, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span>often wet to the skin from heavy showers, the
+peace and warmth of that camp fire were delightful.</p>
+
+<p>The shepherds came from far and near, and asked us many questions: if
+we carried an apparatus for making banknotes (this is not meant as an
+insult, but a common belief that Europeans can fabricate their
+paper-money at will&mdash;a belief of which we had sadly to disillusionise
+them); if our glasses could show us Belgrade, and so on&mdash;questions
+sometimes so difficult to answer that we had to give them up. Then
+they would talk of themselves; the older men would tell of past deeds,
+of fighting and bloodshed, and the fitful glow of the fire would light
+up their animated faces and picturesque costumes.</p>
+
+<p>Great simple children they were, unknown in the art of lying, and yet
+they repeat stories of bygone battles and slaughter, which they have
+heard and believed, as gospel truth. Like Esau, with the smell of the
+field upon them, they love to listen, too, to stories of unknown
+lands, where the houses are even larger and finer than those of
+Cetinje or Podgorica, which towns many even have not seen; but too
+much of the outside world one cannot tell them, for then they look
+hurt at being deemed so childish. They are curious, too, as are all
+children, and love to examine the clothes which we strange foreign
+creatures wear. There they sit on the hard earthen floor, as happy and
+contented as princes, nay, more <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span>so, for they have no cares to trouble
+them. They proffer us their tobacco tins, accepting ours in return,
+touching their caps as they do so; then the cigarette, deftly rolled,
+is lit by a glowing ember, which they rake from the fire, and the now
+burning cigarette is handed to us to light from. Again we all touch
+our caps, for it is rigid etiquette, in accepting a light, to
+acknowledge the courtesy by a half military salute. In the corner the
+calf will moan, and we, now half asleep, will stretch out our weary
+limbs, draw our coats and blankets over us, and to the murmur of the
+now subdued conversation, find forgetfulness in sweet sleep.</p>
+
+<p>I remember a conversation with a boy of about fifteen, who was out
+shooting with me, and acting as my guide and beater.</p>
+
+<p>It was nearing sunset, and we sat and rested on a ridge which
+overlooked both sides of the valleys.</p>
+
+<p>He asked me so many questions that I asked him if he had never even
+been to Podgorica.</p>
+
+<p>"No," he said, "I shall never go."</p>
+
+<p>"Why?" I asked.</p>
+
+<p>"Because I am content here. If I went to that great town, I should be
+ashamed of my ragged clothes. I should want to buy the beautiful
+things which they tell me are to be bought in the shops, and not
+having money I should be sad. No; it is better never to have seen such
+magnificence."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"But," I argued, "if thou goest to Podgorica, thou wouldst find work.
+Even I could get thee employment."</p>
+
+<p>"No," he repeated; "my home is in the mountains. In time I would have
+to return here, and I should be miserable with the remembrance of
+those happy days."</p>
+
+<p>This boy had been taught at the school, and he told me the capitals of
+the great countries, which were nothing more than empty names to him.
+He knew, also, a few words of German, about two phrases, though how he
+picked them up was hard to make out.</p>
+
+<p>He liked to ask me questions about England, Montenegro's friend in
+past times of trouble, and seemed surprised to hear that I had seen
+snow before I came to his land.</p>
+
+<p>His father said that the boy was stupid and a dreamer, but I thought
+differently of him.</p>
+
+<p>P. joined me, and together we watched the sunset. On our left towered
+the Kom, and running in an unbroken chain circled a mountain range,
+ending in the setting sun. Low down an angry bank of clouds hung over
+the distant peaks, and into this mass of black and grey the sun, in
+all its glory of yellow and gold, sank slowly. The hills between us
+seemed wild and mysterious. Away to our left, in gloomy confusion, the
+Albanian Alps reared their heads, lit here <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span>and there with a red gleam
+of sunlight. At our feet, shrouded in impenetrable blackness, lay two
+steep ravines. The sun sank, leaving a weird eerie feeling behind, and
+we found ourselves strangely cold.</p>
+
+<p>We spent many days with Vaso, shooting with indifferent results, but
+revelling in the glories of nature.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2>
+
+<h3>We leave Andrijevica&mdash;Our additional escort&mdash;The arrival at our
+camping-place&mdash;In an enemy's country&mdash;The story of one Gjoli&#263;&mdash;Our
+slumbers are disturbed&mdash;Sunrise on the Alps&mdash;We disappoint our
+escort&mdash;"Albanian or Montenegrin?"&mdash;A reconnaissance&mdash;The Forest of
+Vu&#269;ipotok&mdash;The forbidden land&mdash;A narrow escape&mdash;We arrive at
+Rikavac&mdash;Rain damps our ardour&mdash;Nocturnal visitors.</h3>
+
+
+<p>We left Andrijevica finally one morning about eight a.m. for our many
+days' ride along the Albanian frontier to Podgorica. Everyone turned
+out to bid us farewell, from the Voivoda, who expressed his regret
+that we had seen no one shot, downwards. The Voivoda's son and a small
+party accompanied us to the outskirts of the town, where a quaint
+notice-board bears the inscription that, on pain of a fine, shooting
+is forbidden within the prescribed limits.</p>
+
+<p>Here, after much hand-shaking and promises to come again, we mounted,
+and drawing our revolvers, replied right merrily to the farewell
+volleys of our friends. It is a pleasant custom that&mdash;shooting at
+parting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_42" id="image_42"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/296.jpg" width="500" height="350" alt="THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS" title="THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS" />
+<span class="caption">THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We rode for two or three hours along the Peru&#353;ica valley till we came
+to a small and scattered village, Konjuhe, where we dismounted for a
+rest. It was the birthplace of the Voivoda, and his brother still
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span>lived there. He was immediately sent for. When he heard of our
+proposed tour, he insisted on our taking an additional escort (besides
+Dr. S., and Stephan our servant, we had engaged another man, named
+Milan, in Andrijevica) of at least two men, as the country was just
+now in a very dangerous condition. The necessary guard was soon found,
+and after a long halt owing to a heavy shower, we were able to proceed
+on our way, first carefully loading our rifles and overhauling our
+revolvers. Our two men were quite celebrated for a famous raid into
+Gusinje, in which they had played an active part a short time ago.
+They had killed several Albanians, and captured two hundred sheep. As
+the Albanians would shoot them at sight, they seemed hardly fitted to
+act as an escort; but then every man from that part is engaged, more
+or less, in a blood feud across the border.</p>
+
+<p>We commenced climbing almost directly, and the ascent lasted for the
+rest of the day. The scenery was grand. On our right the majestic Kom,
+still covered with snow; falling away precipitously to the left was
+the deep ravine of Terpetlis, through which a mountain torrent dashed;
+and rising high on the other side, and forming the boundary between
+Montenegro and Albania, was a magnificent rocky ridge. We dismounted
+at one point to breathe our horses, and made our midday meal off wild
+strawberries.</p>
+
+<p>Further on we passed from the Vasovi&#263; into the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span>Ku&#263;. These two, the
+most warlike clans of Montenegro, were formerly under Turkish rule,
+and bitter foes. But when war broke out, they forgot their old enmity
+and joined hand-in-hand with Montenegro to drive out the still more
+hated Turk. Since then they have lived together in peace and harmony.</p>
+
+<p>On nearing our camping-ground for the night, our two guards ran on to
+draw the fire from any concealed Albanians, while we followed more
+leisurely. The scenery was wild in the extreme, though differing very
+slightly from that which we had experienced during the last few weeks.
+Great woods stretched half-way down the mountain to the torrent, and
+up again on the further side. Immense boulders, with an occasional
+tree growing out of a crevice, and every here and there clumps of
+firs, every yard affording excellent cover for a hidden enemy.</p>
+
+<p>Our destination was Carina, a collection of stone huts on an open
+green slope, which reaches up to the rocky sides of the Kom. It is the
+highest point inhabited in Montenegro by the shepherds in the summer,
+and lies over five thousand feet above the sea-level. During this
+period of the annual migration to the hills, the district is
+comparatively safe. The Albanians do not attack large parties, but
+rather stragglers, as larger numbers have an unpleasant habit of
+organising themselves into avenging bands to repay the visit with
+interest.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Not a soul was to be seen anywhere, not a living being of any
+description. In a shower of pelting rain we took possession of the
+largest hut. It is decidedly annoying to get thoroughly wet at the end
+of a long day, and the prospect of a night in damp clothes was in no
+way pleasing. The hut was damp and cold, and it had the chilly feeling
+which only comes from a long period of emptiness, and strikes to the
+marrow. But our men turned to with a will, cleaning out the hut,
+strewing it with very wet rushes, and piling up a big log-fire in the
+middle. We were pretty hungry, too, a couple of eggs at six a.m. and a
+few strawberries at midday are not much to go on, and we had been in
+the saddle for over ten hours. Stephan had brought amongst other
+things some raw bacon, which he gave me, but, hungry as I was, I could
+not face that. Later on, a happy thought struck me, and I went and
+toasted it over the fire. I do not recollect ever relishing food so
+much in my life. About a couple of hours later a lamb had been
+roasted, and we were able to make a decent meal.</p>
+
+<p>It was getting rapidly dark now, and watch had to be kept outside. The
+horses were picketed close at hand for fear of wolves, as well as
+Albanians. By the time that we had finished eating, night was upon us.
+It was pitch dark and no moon. Rather reluctantly I turned out to do
+my share of sentry-go in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span>bitter cold. But it was decidedly
+interesting, as one of our party began to tell stories of the usual
+blood-curdling nature. On emerging from the hut, I thoughtlessly
+remained standing for a few seconds in the low doorway which, as the
+fire was blazing brightly inside, showed up my figure strongly against
+the surrounding gloom. Before I knew where I was I was roughly seized
+by a man and thrown forcibly into the darkness. He intimated that I
+must be a fool to court death in that manner. For all we knew, he
+said, a dozen Albanians might be hiding around us and waiting for such
+an easy shot. And when I was not allowed to smoke, I realised that we
+were in an enemy's country.</p>
+
+<p>Watch was kept all night by two men, one sitting on the roof, or on an
+elevation which commanded it, and the other patrolling round with a
+sharp eye on the horses. The roof must always be watched, for the
+Albanians usually creep up and climb on to it&mdash;it is always
+conveniently low&mdash;they then remove a board and shoot the sleeping
+inmates.</p>
+
+<p>During my watch I was told the following story, which brings out many
+interesting traits of the Montenegrin character.</p>
+
+<p>A certain man named Gjoli&#263;, of the tribe of Vasovi&#263;, killed two men of
+his clan over a love affair, and promptly fled to Gusinje, the country
+just opposite Carina, and inhabited by a tribe of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span>Albanians, famed
+for their blood-thirstiness and hatred of strangers. The only passport
+to their land is crime, and no one but a fugitive from justice can
+hope to enter, or leave it, alive. Gjoli&#263; swore to have revenge on his
+clan, and in this respect he was a notable exception. He came
+repeatedly across the border, often in broad daylight, shooting anyone
+whom he met. He soon became the terror of the whole Vasovi&#263;. In the
+neighbourhood of Carina he had shot many shepherds, and last autumn he
+murdered a youth of sixteen. This was too much, and two men laid their
+heads together. To obtain the necessary right of entrance to Gusinje,
+they crossed over into Turkey and deliberately stole a cow, taking
+care at the same time that they should be arrested and sentenced to
+punishment. Their plan acted admirably, and they effected their
+escape, fleeing to Gusinje, where they were received in a friendly
+manner. But Gjoli&#263; was away, and for six months they waited for him in
+patience. At last news came that he was on his way home, and could be
+expected on a certain day. So the men went out to meet him, and began
+shooting fish in a river where he must pass. Fish shooting is a common
+and favourite sport of the people.</p>
+
+<p>"God help you," said a voice, "has your luck been good?"</p>
+
+<p>It was Gjoli&#263; who spoke.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Our luck is good," they answered, and following an imaginary fish
+with their rifles, they turned on him.</p>
+
+<p>Crack! Crack! Gjoli&#263; was dead.</p>
+
+<p>That scene I shall never forget. The starless night, all round the
+land lying enshrouded in impenetrable darkness, the low voice of the
+Montenegrin which rose with his excitement, but sank again immediately
+to a hoarse whisper, and on the barely discernible roof of the hut a
+black figure, with rifle at the ready, sitting motionless.</p>
+
+<p>It was eleven o'clock when I turned in, and the next man took his
+rifle and went outside to relieve one of the watchers. A roaring fire
+was kept going, for it was very cold, and round it lay the others
+sleeping, each with his rifle and revolver by his head. "And we are in
+Europe!" I said to myself, as I lay down to sleep, which, in spite of
+the mighty snoring of Dr. S., came almost immediately.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed but a few minutes since I had closed my eyes when a shot
+rang out, bringing me to my knees in an instant. It is not advisable
+to rise quickly in these huts without taking the roof into
+consideration, as I had learnt by bitter and repeated experience.
+Everyone awoke, except Dr. S., who snored on peacefully. However, I
+roughly awoke him, and we all dashed out, rifle in hand.</p>
+
+<p>One of our sentries stood peering into the gloom, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span>and swore that he
+had seen a figure moving. We lay down and waited, but nothing came.</p>
+
+<p>Then slowly the day began to dawn, and with it our anxiety diminished.
+I went to get a cup of coffee, preparatory to climbing a part of the
+Kom. One of our guards, of course, accompanied me. That is the worst
+of these districts, we could never move a step without being followed.
+It was like being under police surveillance. Furthermore, I should
+have preferred to climb with a good stick; but no. Again that iron
+control ordered me to take my carbine, and loaded too.</p>
+
+<p>We reached a high ridge just in time to see the sun rise, and it lit
+up the snow-clad mountain-tops with an indescribable beauty. But so
+much has been written about the splendours of Alpine sunrises that it
+is needless to say more about it. Yet it was as beautiful as anything
+to be seen in Switzerland or the Tyrol. The ridge commanded a view in
+both directions. The Albanian Alps and the mountains behind the Mora&#269;a
+lay before us in one vast panorama, the latter looming up so close
+that it was difficult to believe that so many days' hard riding lay
+between us.</p>
+
+<p>After climbing one of the lower peaks, we descended again to our hut,
+which we reached shortly after six. Everyone was busy, washing,
+packing up, or even sleeping, which is an equally important <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span>business.
+To snatch half an hour's sleep here and there is an enviable art, and
+cannot be overrated. But, perched on a low stone wall, sat a guard all
+the time. Daylight does not imply safety.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast, luxurious with toasted bacon, I emerged from the hut
+to find an excited group outside, one of whom was even lying down and
+aiming.</p>
+
+<p>"He is watching us. It is far better that we should finish him now
+than allow him to go on and report our movements," said the man,
+fingering his trigger lovingly.</p>
+
+<p>On looking I saw an Albanian about six hundred yards away, half hidden
+behind a boulder. The idea of shooting a man in this way did not seem
+quite sporting, and Dr. S. agreed with me. The men were extremely
+disappointed at our refusal to allow them to shoot. "He will follow us
+till we reach the wood," they said, "and then we shall repent it." The
+Albanian shortly afterwards disappeared, and we proceeded with our
+packing.</p>
+
+<p>About eight o'clock we left Carina, and had rather an unique
+experience in riding across several large snow fields which were quite
+hard, though the horses decidedly disliked the experiment. About an
+hour's ride brought us to a tiny church, solidly built of stone and
+standing on a ridge overlooking the whole country. It is used by the
+shepherds who <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span>migrate annually to the pasturages in this district.
+Only a few months ago the Albanians had broken into it and utterly
+dismantled it. On the iron door and on the shutters huge dents and
+even bullet splashes were plainly visible. Our Albanian we found here
+awaiting us, which was a plucky thing to do. Our guards hailed him
+with the cry of "Albanian or Montenegrin?" But he answered, "Friend."
+I think that our men showed him our rifles rather ostentatiously, and,
+as we were all armed with magazines and had plenty of ammunition, he
+must have thought that we should scarcely afford the desired sport. We
+did not see him again, though he took the same path which we were
+going to take. This incident put us very much on our guard, and we
+made preparations for the further journey with mixed feelings. Before
+us lay the dense wood of Vu&#269;ipotok, which is the most ill-famed spot
+in Montenegro. It stretches unbrokenly down to Gusinje, and the bridle
+path which traverses it is the border line between the two countries.</p>
+
+<p>It was then settled that a guard and myself should climb a small hill
+overlooking the wood and its approach. However, we saw nothing, and
+soon rejoined our party. Before entering the wood, in the open, were
+two or three stones erected to murdered men&mdash;it is customary in
+Montenegro to put up either a pile of stones or a slab of rock <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span>where
+the body has been found. Inscriptions on the stones are very rare, the
+Vu&#269;ipotok is too dangerous to waste much time in it, but wherever
+these stones are seen, a dead man, as often as not headless, has been
+found. Such memorial stones are to be found all over the country, but
+not in such plentiful profusion as we saw them now.</p>
+
+<p>Everyone dismounted, and with rather uncanny feelings we entered the
+forest. First of all went one of our escort, and then in single file,
+about ten paces apart, we followed. Rifles were held at the ready, and
+every boulder and tree carefully scanned. The path was atrocious,
+strewn with great stones, so that walking was no easy matter. When a
+particularly large boulder was reached, we would halt under its
+shelter to enable the horses to come up&mdash;they were following behind
+under the charge of one man. We did not exactly stroll through that
+wood.</p>
+
+<p>Every few paces stood a memorial stone. There was one put up to the
+memory of ten Montenegrins who were all shot down without seeing their
+enemy. Everyone shoots at sight here, and had we met our Albanian
+friend of the early morning, matters would have gone sadly with him.
+At one point I insisted on taking a photograph&mdash;much to everyone's
+disgust. The spot was where a famous Ku&#263; general had been murdered.
+His head was taken in triumph to Scutari. Oddly enough, we ate our
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span>midday meal at his grave, for his friends took his body away from
+here and buried it in an open place directly overlooking the valley of
+Gusinje. I was rather hurried over the operation, as the Montenegrins
+distinctly objected to standing still, but they were all very tickled
+about it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_43" id="image_43"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/308.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="THE PATH THROUGH THE VU&#268;IPOTOK" title="THE PATH THROUGH THE VU&#268;IPOTOK" />
+<span class="caption">THE PATH THROUGH THE VU&#268;IPOTOK</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Vu&#269;ipotok is used by young Montenegrins as a means of showing
+their bravery. They go straight through it alone, with their rifles
+over their backs, smoking cigarettes. This constitutes an act of
+reckless daring in their eyes. Some even go through, at some distance
+from the path, on the Albanian side. We met one young man leading his
+horse and strolling along as unconcernedly as though he were in
+Cetinje&mdash;so that we almost felt that we were being unduly impressed
+with a sense of danger. But afterwards we met another party who were
+proceeding with greater caution than we were. And then there were
+those memorial stones.</p>
+
+<p>At last the wood ceased, and in a clearing we made a halt. Our
+Montenegrins looked relieved. For themselves they have no fear, but
+had one of us been hit, the disgrace for them would have been
+unspeakable. It would have necessitated a raid into Albania of the
+most extensive kind, and hundreds might have fallen; the Montenegrins
+guard their visitors as they guard their honour, and in that case,
+life is only a secondary matter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We now climbed a very steep hill. At the top we had to dismount, as a
+narrow path, just wide enough for a horse, skirted along a great
+precipice, looking straight down about one thousand feet. It was a
+wonderful view, but not to be recommended to those suffering in any
+way from giddiness.</p>
+
+<p>We overlooked the great Vu&#269;ipotok wood through which we had just
+passed, and the whole valley of Gusinje. When we reached a place where
+we were able to turn round with comfort, we stopped for the view. A
+long, narrow valley, inclosed by the Procletia or "Damnable
+Mountains," through which a river could be seen flowing, lay at our
+feet. This was Gusinje, the forbidden land. With the aid of
+field-glasses the town of Gusinje itself could be just distinguished,
+a square and apparently walled-in town.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Very picturesque it looked
+in the bright sunshine, the great green woods in the foreground, the
+solemn and majestic snow mountains and the peaceful valley. Yet it is
+inhabited by the most villainous and treacherous cut-throats in
+Europe, an absolutely untameable tribe, who would die to the last man
+to preserve their independence.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> This, however, is not the case, as we afterwards learnt.</p></div>
+
+<p>When the path broadened out slightly our two guards left us and
+returned home. Both emptied their magazines into the air at parting,
+which we answered, and the din was tremendous. Below us <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span>was a small
+village or collection of shepherds' huts, and, in that moment,
+confusion reigned supreme. The men seized their rifles, the women
+rushed into the huts, dogs barked, and horses stampeded. It seemed
+rather thoughtless to thus alarm the village, but, on being
+remonstrated with, the men only laughed and fired another shot. Had it
+been a town below us the result might have been more serious.</p>
+
+<p>A little further on, we stopped for rest and food at a narrow pass
+overlooking Gusinje on the one side and Montenegro on the other. The
+murdered Ku&#263; general, whose memorial stone we had seen earlier in the
+day, was buried here. Strange that his body should find its last
+resting-place overlooking the home of his murderers.</p>
+
+<p>By using the Montenegrin telephone (the art of talking at great
+distances), we ordered some milk from the village below, and drank it
+with that enjoyment which is only known to a thoroughly hungry and
+thirsty man.</p>
+
+<p>Our afternoon's ride was again particularly stiff. Climbing one hill,
+Dr. S., who was leading, missed the path, a very easy thing to do, so
+undefined as it sometimes is. He got on to a very steep and rocky bit
+of the hill and his horse lost its footing. It began stumbling and
+slipping about in a most alarming manner. We held our breath for the
+next few seconds, for a long fall was in store for him, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span>and certain
+death. He tried to dismount, and succeeded in getting off his horse,
+but his foot stuck in the stirrup, the horse still sliding on.
+Fortunately, the animal recovered its balance, and Dr. S. extricated
+himself, but it was a nasty moment. That is the worst of the
+Montenegrins; they rely so implicitly on the sure-footedness of their
+ponies that they ride up anywhere, only condescending to dismount for
+very steep descents. And accidents often happen when horse or man, or
+even both, are killed; but this presumable laziness affords no example
+to others.</p>
+
+<p>About five p.m. we began anxiously inquiring the whereabouts of our
+night quarters. The usual Montenegrin <i>quart d'heure</i> was given&mdash;and
+rightly enough. A sharp descent, lasting over an hour, made painfully
+on foot, saw us in a great hollow basin among the mountains, with the
+pretty lake of Rikavac at the further end and a small collection of
+wooden huts.</p>
+
+<p>To these we proceeded and were met by the village Fathers. Dr. S. was
+well known here and they had recognised him coming down. Five dear old
+boys they were, who kissed Dr. S. most affectionately, one unshaven
+old ruffian including me in his salute. I do not appreciate the
+Montenegrin custom of kissing among men; it is not pleasant. An empty
+hut was immediately put at our disposal. It <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span>was the most primitive
+and tumble-down habitation that we had had as yet. Of course it
+rained. It was almost the first rain on the trip, and we had to lie up
+here a whole day as P. was unwell and unable to ride. Everyone turned
+out to make the hut comfortable, but it was not a success. I lay down
+outside and promptly fell asleep, when a sharp thunderstorm came on
+and drove me inside. There was not a dry corner to be found. The rain
+came through in steady rivulets everywhere. There was no getting away
+from those persistent little streams, either head, body, or feet had
+to suffer&mdash;and the fire refused to burn. Added to that, the whole
+population crowded in to look at us. It was no fun at all Stephan
+stood cursing in German that he could not get near the fire to cook,
+and that he would not cook at all if the mob were not cleared out.
+This Dr. S. refused to allow, as it would be considered inhospitable.</p>
+
+<p>In course of time the rain stopped and our visitors left us, but only
+temporarily. Stephan cooked and we went outside to dry ourselves. The
+food was then ready, and after putting away a good meal we were able
+to view the world with more equanimity.</p>
+
+<p>After supper it came on to rain again and damped us thoroughly before
+going to bed. I was very annoyed to find, after having discovered as I
+fondly imagined a dry corner, that one of my pockets was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span>full of
+water. I should not have been so irritated had my tobacco been in
+another pocket; it was a leather coat and held the water beautifully.
+Then we tried to go to sleep. My pillow was a stone, like Jacob's, and
+though I tried covering it with my coat it was of no avail, since the
+cold forced me to put it on again. I do not mind a hard bed, but a
+hard pillow is distinctly objectionable. We were just on the point of
+sleeping when in stalked two men for an after-supper smoke and chat,
+and one of them, to P.'s intense disgust, sat on his feet. It cost Dr.
+S. all his diplomacy to hint that we had been up since three a.m. and
+were disinclined to talk.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2>
+
+
+<h3>More memorial stones&mdash;We get wet again&mdash;Unwilling hosts&mdash;A fall&mdash;The
+Franciscan of Zatrijeba&#263;&mdash;The ravine of the Zem&mdash;Methods of settling
+tribal differences&mdash;A change of diet and more pleasant evenings&mdash;A
+fatalist&mdash;Sunday morning.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Punctually at eight a.m. next morning we took an affectionate farewell
+of the Fathers, though I mounted hurriedly first to avoid the
+repetition of the welcoming chaste salute.</p>
+
+<p>Our path lay for two hours over a rocky and barren country similar to
+the naked Katunska district round Cetinje. Gone were the rich green
+pasturages and wooded valleys in exchange for a waste of grey rocks.
+But a large wood was ultimately reached, only a little less dangerous
+than the wood of Vu&#269;ipotok. Similar precautions were observed in
+passing through&mdash;in fact, our carbines were carried loaded again all
+day. The Albanian border was never more than a rifle-shot away.
+Numerous gentle reminders of the dangers of the path existed in the
+shape of memorial stones all the way along. We met several families,
+all fully armed of course, driving their flocks before them to the
+mountain grazing-grounds of the Kom.</p>
+
+<p>It was about one o'clock when we emerged on a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span>large barren plateau.
+On the further side, just across the border, lay the Albanian village
+of Korito, which Dr. S. knew, and where we intended spending the rest
+of the day and night.</p>
+
+<p>Half-way across, a sudden storm of rain and hail came down, and I have
+never got wet through so quickly in my life. Within five minutes, the
+water was running out of my boots. My leather coat, though waterproof,
+let regular rivers down my neck. It was a rain that would not be
+denied, and icy cold.</p>
+
+<p>In that waterspout we sat and waited while Dr. S. hunted up his
+friends; but apparently they had all left, with their flocks. A few
+Albanians appeared, and by the dint of much persuasion Dr. S. induced
+them to show us an empty hut. As soon as they had done this they left
+us, looking at us in an unfriendly and suspicious manner. We got our
+baggage in as quickly as possible, and by this time we were shivering
+with cold. No wood could be seen, and Dr. S. again sallied forth, and
+by the aid of small bribes some wood was brought and we soon had a
+fire burning.</p>
+
+<p>However, our natural buoyancy rose again with the fire, and we made a
+very light meal off the food that we had with us. It was not more than
+a few mouthfuls apiece, but nothing could be got here. Then we
+solemnly stood round the fire and dried <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span>ourselves, the steam rising
+like pillars of cloud, and hiding our figures from each other. The
+warmth was very agreeable and comforting.</p>
+
+<p>Several Albanians now crowded in, examining our arms, and were so
+unfriendly, not to say threatening, that we hastily reconsidered our
+plans. Firstly and foremostly, we had no food, watch would have to be
+kept all the time, over the horses and at the hut, using up two men,
+so the prospect was not pleasing.</p>
+
+<p>So we saddled up and left about three for Zatrijeba&#263;, four hours'
+distance, happy to be rid of our unwilling hosts.</p>
+
+<p>The difference between the treatment of strangers by Albanians and
+Montenegrins was very marked.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+
+<p>Our path led us through the great wood of Kostice, and, owing to the
+recent heavy rain, the track, never very plain, was in parts entirely
+obliterated. Twice we lost ourselves, and once more a drenching shower
+came on, repeating the morning douche. Still we plodded on with
+stumbling horses over the slippery way till we emerged on the great
+plain or plateau of Zatrijeba&#263;. Zatrijeba&#263; is an Albanian clan several
+thousand strong who live under Montenegrin rule. They serve as
+Montenegrin subjects in the army, give no trouble except in occasional
+border fights with rival Albanian clans, and their bravery is
+proverbial. Further, they are Roman Catholics. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span>country is most
+curious, great slabs of stone lying about in a promiscuous fashion as
+if it had once rained them, and the path was certainly the most vile
+of the whole trip, which is putting it as strongly as possible.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> I have since learnt differently.&mdash;R.W.</p></div>
+
+<p>It was climbing or rather scaling a small rock that my long-expected
+fall came. Alat, my horse, floundered badly at an angle of forty-five
+degrees and lost his balance completely. The doctor, who was behind,
+shouted to me to pull him up, but as I was sliding off his back with a
+broken girth at an ever-increasing velocity, I was unable to follow
+this very excellent advice. Down I came heavily on the stones, luckily
+on the high side of the path, landing on my back with my legs all
+mixed up in Alat's. My saddle and saddlebags followed me in quick
+succession, and something hit me violently over the head&mdash;that was my
+carbine. Providentially Alat stood still, and my cartridge belt saved
+my back.</p>
+
+<p>I got up when I could sort out my legs, making remarks to Dr. S. about
+that girth which he said afterwards were quite artistic. Many, many
+years ago the girth may have been good and strong, and it had
+undoubtedly seen better days. Next I sought one named Stephan. He had
+always assured me that it would last another week. Montenegrins are
+careless about such things.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the way I had to walk, which dried me, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span>as the path was
+steep and tiring. At the house of Dr. S. in Podgorica we had met a
+young Franciscan monk, a Neapolitan and a great student. He at once
+invited us to visit him in Zatrijeba&#263;, where he is the spiritual
+shepherd, and to spend a few weeks with him. On approaching a roofless
+church, in the course of rebuilding, we espied this young monk rushing
+to meet us. With all the fervour of his race, he embraced and kissed
+us repeatedly, welcoming us to his home. He gave me his bed, and the
+other remaining one was put at P.'s disposal, and he would not hear of
+our leaving next day or the next.</p>
+
+<p>There are but two other Roman Catholic churches in Montenegro, in
+Antivari and Dulcigno,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> in fact only where the Albanians are in
+sufficient evidence.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The Austrian Legation in Cetinje has also its own
+chapel.</p></div>
+
+<p>We had intended to visit Zatrijeba&#263; at the beginning of our mountain
+tour, but the district was considered unsafe at that time. A quarrel
+over the appointment of a new captain had led to the relations of the
+disappointed candidate shooting the brother of the new captain. Two
+boys, aged fifteen and sixteen respectively, had ambushed their
+victim, and put no less than seven bullets into him at a distance of
+four hundred yards, which is pretty good shooting. The boys got away
+across the border, but wholesale arrests took place, and it is not
+well to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span>visit districts thus excited. The young Franciscan repeated
+to us the story that evening round the kitchen fire, where we spent
+very many happy hours. He spoke of it sadly.</p>
+
+<p>"The vendetta is a terrible thing," he said. "It respects neither the
+laws of God nor man."</p>
+
+<p>Our host would not rest till he had shown me the famous view, and Dr.
+S. accompanied us. As one stands outside the church, a magnificent
+panorama is spread out, seemingly without a break. But should one wish
+to ascend the mountains opposite so temptingly near, a great ravine
+must be first descended. Ten minutes' walk brings one to the edge of a
+precipice 2,400 feet deep, so appalling and so sudden that one's
+breath is momentarily taken away. It is a spot to sit and meditate on
+the grandeur of the work of the Master of all architects. The majesty
+of that mighty ravine is, indeed, awe-inspiring.</p>
+
+<p>At the bottom, a mere tiny thread, flows the Zem, a river which has
+often run blood, and whose source is hardly known as it rises in the
+unknown Procletia, "the Accursed Mountains" of history. A wall of
+mountains rises beyond. Steep and precipitous as is the descent on the
+Zatrijeba&#263; side, still a path trodden daily by mountaineers winds and
+zigzags down to the bottom. Then as we seated ourselves on a carefully
+selected and safe ledge and gazed on this unique <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span>picture, the monk
+told us of a bloody battle fought not so very many years ago by the
+men of Zatrijeba&#263; and the clan of Hotti who inhabit the opposite
+mountains. It was a quaint illustration how questions of boundary
+lines are settled without the aid of expensive Courts of Arbitration.</p>
+
+<p>When the new frontier was laid down at the conclusion of the late war,
+the River Zem was Montenegro's limit. On the hill beyond lies a
+grazing-ground which has been used as a summer pasturage by the
+Zatrijeba&#263; from times immemorial. Though technically now belonging to
+Albania, and in particular to the clan of Hotti, the Zatrijeba&#263; still
+continued to drive their flocks across the ravine. The Hotti
+remonstrated, and finding this of no avail, took possession of the
+plateau. Their opponents coming over found the rival clan posted in a
+seemingly impregnable position on every point of vantage on that steep
+ascent. Though armed with inferior rifles (in those days), they
+attacked at once, and by reckless bravery came to hand-to-hand
+conflict. Then a terrible encounter ensued, men seized each other and
+threw themselves over the cliffs, and to complete the utter
+discomfiture of the Hotti, the Ku&#263; came to the assistance of their
+neighbours and the Hotti were nearly annihilated. Since then no
+questions have been asked, and annually the cattle and sheep of
+Zatrijeba&#263; graze in peace in Albania.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It was a very similar dispute which has happened so very recently at
+Mokra near Andrijevica.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+
+<p>Supper gave us a much needed change of diet. Boiled fowl and
+vegetables came as a luxury after days of tough and stringy lamb. We
+sat at a table again too, on chairs, and felt quite ashamed of our
+recently acquired habits.</p>
+
+<p>The evenings round the kitchen fire were just as delightful as our hut
+experiences, and if possible, more novel. Here we had fierce
+Albanians, with their half-shaven heads and scalping lock, and a
+scholar, a student of philosophy, a man of wonderful ideals, in the
+form of the young Franciscan, instead of unkempt shepherds.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Since writing the above another tribal disturbance has
+taken place between the Zatrijeba&#263; and the Hotti. This time it was the
+Hotti who drove their flocks, also from time immemorial, to a certain
+spot in Zatrijeba&#263;, and as the latter tribe have since cultivated the
+intervening ground, they felt justly irritated. As the only real
+argument is the rifle, they met and argued the point in this fashion
+in February, 1902, and many fell on both sides. A notable incident
+which is worth recording is, that a man of Hotti fought on the side of
+the Zatrijeba&#263; against his brethren and was killed. His body was
+afterwards handed back and his clan demanded to know if he had fought
+as a man. "In the front rank," was the answer. Then they took the body
+and gave it an honourable burial and agreed to let the dispute drop.
+In this action our friend the monk had his habit riddled with bullets
+whilst attending the wounded.</p></div>
+
+<p>Round the fire another evening an argument as to the wrongs of
+Fatalism, <i>i.e.</i> God's Will, led to a characteristic story by the monk
+in defence of his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span> views. Dr. S., like many men who lead such lives as
+he does, was a rigid fatalist.</p>
+
+<p>An Albanian found his enemy in vendetta, working in a field. Hiding
+himself, he prayed to God and S. Nicholas to direct the bullet.</p>
+
+<p>"Lord," he prayed, "should I hit this man in the breast, then I shall
+know that I do this deed by Thy Will."</p>
+
+<p>He laid his rifle on a stone, took careful aim, and the other fell
+dead shot through the breast.</p>
+
+<p>"By God's Will I killed him," he answered, when the priest endeavoured
+to impress upon him his crime.</p>
+
+<p>The lighter side of nature was given us by another story.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after the priest's arrival at Zatrijeba&#263; a half-naked man came
+to him. The worthy friar took pity on him and gave him a clean white
+shirt of his own.</p>
+
+<p>On the following Sunday during the Mass, as he turned to his
+congregation to give the Benediction, to his horror he saw the man
+with the shirt drawn over all his ragged clothes, in a front row. It
+was with the greatest difficulty, he concluded, that he could restrain
+a smile.</p>
+
+<p>We were afforded a novel and striking scene before we left Zatrijeba&#263;
+in the form of an open-air Mass on Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>The church being in the course of rebuilding, a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span>rough altar had been
+hastily constructed, or rather knocked up&mdash;for it was of most crude
+workmanship&mdash;of wood planks on a small grass plot.</p>
+
+<p>From nine a.m. onwards the people began to assemble, coming from all
+parts of the large and straggling district, and sat about in groups
+gravely talking. Towards eleven o'clock a large number of peasants had
+arrived, and the altar was covered with not a fair white cloth as
+usual, but with something suspiciously resembling a long and not
+overclean towel. A tiny crucifix was placed upon it, and the young
+priest robed himself there in sight of the whole congregation.</p>
+
+<p>A group of elder men knelt or squatted on the small open space
+immediately in front of the High Altar, but the majority of
+worshippers ranged themselves under the shade of some small trees and
+on the low surrounding walls.</p>
+
+<p>These same trees bear weekly a strange and incongruous fruit, for they
+are used as pegs whereon the Albanians hang their rifles during
+service. All round, the walls are stacked with rifles, for, like the
+Puritans of old, they come to church fully armed with rifle, handjar,
+and revolver, and round their waists, the inevitable bandolier of
+cartridges.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="image_44" id="image_44"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/326.jpg" width="600" height="339" alt="AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBA&#262;" title="AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBA&#262;" />
+<span class="caption">AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBA&#262;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On approaching the altar every man pushed back the cloth which is
+swathed round his half-shaven head, and kneeling, piously crossed
+himself. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span>older men displayed even more reverence, and kissed
+the earth. The younger men were much the same as their cultured and
+civilised brothers, lounging through the service, half seated on a
+wall, and barely crossing themselves.</p>
+
+<p>But the general effect was one of great reverence and striking in the
+extreme. We watched this strange congregation with great interest, and
+during the most sacred part of the service, when all, even the blas&eacute;
+young men, prostrated themselves, the effect was unique.</p>
+
+<p>Picture a cut-throat, shave half his head, leaving a tuft of hair on
+the back by which he kindly assists his victor to decapitate him,
+expecting a like consideration in return, long drooping moustachios,
+clad in Turkish clothes, a belt full of cartridges, with revolver and
+murderous-looking yataghan artistically displayed&mdash;of such was this
+congregation. Men who half-an-hour afterwards would shoot an enemy in
+the course of a vendetta, or otherwise, without any thought of
+remorse. Yes, and coolly cut off his head and bring it home to his
+admiring wife and daughters, now so discreetly and respectfully
+kneeling behind them. This is not an over-drawn picture. It happens
+often.</p>
+
+<p>Of such consisted the congregation under the green trees, blue sky,
+brilliant sunshine, in that perfect landscape this Sunday morning. And
+of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span>such is peopled a part of the vast country of Albania. A people
+who hold human life as nothing&mdash;a reckless and brave nation of devout
+Roman Catholics.</p>
+
+<p>At the conclusion of the service we came in for a lot of inspection,
+and going in to dine soon afterwards we chanced to look out of the
+window overlooking the scene of the morning Mass. Still a great crowd
+hung about, and on the late High Altar sat men smoking cigarettes.
+After dinner we bade farewell to our young host, amidst honest regrets
+on both sides. The Franciscan had given us a new insight into the
+mysteries of life.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2>
+
+<h3>A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof&mdash;Ke&#263;o's story&mdash;The laws
+of Vendetta and their incongruity&mdash;We return to Podgorica&mdash;The
+Montenegrin telephone&mdash;An elopement causes excitement&mdash;The Sultan's
+birthday&mdash;The reverse of the picture&mdash;A legal anomaly.</h3>
+
+
+<p>"At Fundina," said Dr. S., "you will meet one of the modern heroes of
+Montenegro. A man named Ke&#263;o, whose fame has reached to the uttermost
+ends of the land."</p>
+
+<p>We had bidden farewell to our host and were riding past the last
+houses and huts of the clan of Zatrijeba&#263; on our way to Fundina. The
+path tended downwards, and shortly the great plain of the Zeta burst
+suddenly into view as we rounded a corner of the mountains. Beyond lay
+the Lake of Scutari with its background of mountains.</p>
+
+<p>It was early in the evening when we reined in our horses before a
+modest stone house and dismounted. It was Fundina, a straggling
+village built on the sloping sides of a mountain from which it takes
+its name.</p>
+
+<p>Voivoda Marko, the hero of Medun, defeated the Turks on these slopes
+in the first engagement of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span>last war, successfully inaugurating
+the campaigning which secured to Montenegro all the territory through
+which we had been riding for so many weeks, including the towns of
+Podgorica and Nik&#353;i&#263;, and the great valley now stretched at our feet.</p>
+
+<p>Podgorica lies like an oasis of green trees on the rolling, but
+treeless, plain.</p>
+
+<p>The Albanian border is but a rifle-shot away, and the village of Dino&#353;
+and the fortress of Tusi are plainly to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>We decided to spend the night here and hear Ke&#263;o's story, though
+Podgorica was only three hours' distance. It would be a fitting finish
+to our mountain tour to sleep on the battlefield of Fundina, and in
+the house of a modern hero.</p>
+
+<p>"I warn you," remarked the doctor, "that Ke&#263;o much belies his deeds by
+his appearance."</p>
+
+<p>Ke&#263;o was not in his house when we arrived, and we had our ceremonial
+and inevitable black coffee brought to us on a small natural platform
+of rock overlooking the magnificent valley.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards a small and insignificant man approached us, with
+haggard looks and grey hair. He greeted the doctor effusively.</p>
+
+<p>"This is Ke&#263;o," said Dr. S.</p>
+
+<p>As he took the tobacco tin which was proffered him his hands trembled
+so excessively that the rolling of a cigarette was a work of art.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"His nerves are gone," explained the doctor. "He lives in hourly
+danger of his life."</p>
+
+<p>Ke&#263;o soon left us to prepare our meal and quarters for the night, and
+it was not till after supper, when we were seated round the fire in
+his little house and smoking, that he would consent to tell his story.
+Even then he spoke at first reluctantly, but soon warmed to his
+subject. His wife was always present and looked anxious. Several men
+were in the room.</p>
+
+<p>"Though my hands tremble and my hair is growing white," he began, "yet
+I do not fear death. We must all die, and I know that my fate must
+speedily overtake me. This house I have built for my wife, and stocked
+with what money I had, to provide for her. They shall not kill me
+easily. Twice have they tried. The first time I was in the fields when
+men fired at me from a long distance. I took my rifle and made a
+d&eacute;tour, and, as my enemies recrossed the border, I was there waiting
+for them. But I did not hit one. Another time seven men hid themselves
+only thirty yards away from my house, in the evening, but they dared
+not shoot then, for my wife was by my side."</p>
+
+<p>"You know," explained the doctor, "the life of a woman is sacred;
+should a woman by the greatest accident shoot a man, the vendetta
+falls on her husband&mdash;she may not be touched; or, should a woman be
+killed in a vendetta, even by the merest <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span>accident, the shame would be
+unspeakable. The murderers and their families, or even their clan,
+would be blotted out, for in such revenge all would join. Ke&#263;o's wife
+never leaves his side after dusk, and, you see, she has saved his life
+once already within his knowledge; who knows how often unawares?"</p>
+
+<p>"Tell us the origin of thy blood-guiltiness," said we. Dr. S. had told
+us the story, but we wished to hear it from his lips.</p>
+
+<p>"I had a cow which was my pride," went on Ke&#263;o. "She yielded more milk
+than any other cow and of a far better quality. Men praised the milk
+and the cheese when I took it to the market in Podgorica for sale, and
+none more than Achmet, a Turk from Dino&#353;.</p>
+
+<p>"One morning I went to milk my cow, and could find her nowhere. My
+most treasured possession was gone. I searched for her all that day
+and the next on the mountain sides, but in vain. On the next market
+day as I wandered gloomily across the market-place of Podgorica,
+Achmet, the Turk, accosted me.</p>
+
+<p>"'Where is thy milk?' he asked, 'which is so wonderful, and where are
+thy marvellous cheeses?'</p>
+
+<p>"I replied that I knew not, and would have passed on.</p>
+
+<p>"'Make thy mind easy,' continued Achmet, an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span>evil smile spreading over
+his face, 'for I have thy cow.'</p>
+
+<p>"'Ah! she has strayed across the border,' I cried. 'Thank God she is
+found.'</p>
+
+<p>"'She strayed across the border,' said Achmet, 'but under my guidance.
+Thou hast not lied. Her milk is indeed of the good quality that thou
+hast boasted. For a Christian dog like thee she is far too good.'</p>
+
+<p>"To this hour I wonder that I did not strike him dead. My rage
+rendered me powerless to move or see. It was as if a black cloud
+descended over my eyes. When I recovered, Achmet was gone.</p>
+
+<p>"For many weeks I went to the Law Court whenever I visited the market,
+demanding the restitution of my cow by legal means, and each time was
+I put off by answers and promises. And Achmet was always on the
+market-place taunting me with tales of the cow and her calf. For she
+had calved. But the law is strict, and I never dared shoot him whilst
+in the town, and this the coward knew.</p>
+
+<p>"When I saw that I should get no help from the law, I took two men
+from this village. They are here in this room," he said, pointing to
+two men seated near us. "And one morning I went across to Dino&#353;. I did
+not go at night, like the thief, but when the sun was highest, and
+when all could see me. I left my comrades outside Achmet's house, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span>and
+went in alone. There I found my cow and her calf, but only the women
+were present. So I drove the cow and the calf out of the door towards
+my comrades. Then, lest any should think that I was afraid, I fired my
+rifle into the air. Very soon the men came running from the fields,
+and amongst them Achmet and his son. When they saw me and my cow, they
+came towards me firing, but being unsteady from running, the bullets
+flew wide. Then I took careful aim and shot Achmet dead, and then his
+son. We then ran quickly, and though men pursued us, they were afraid
+to come too near lest I should shoot them likewise, and so we came
+back to Fundina in safety. Since then the men of Dino&#353; wait for me,
+and they will kill me soon, for the insult is very great that I have
+put upon them, and the fame of my deed has travelled into all lands."
+As he said this his eyes lit with fire, and the spirit of heroism
+shone out in the seemingly timid-looking man.</p>
+
+<p>"Must thou stay here, in Fundina?" I asked, "where thy enemies are so
+near. Why not go to Cetinje or Nik&#353;i&#263;?"</p>
+
+<p>"Men know me for a hero," he answered proudly. "What would they say if
+I ran away and sought safety elsewhere? I should be a double coward,
+for I should leave my brothers to inherit my fate. No, I shall wait
+here till they come, and they shall not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span>find me unprepared or
+sleeping. See, every night I make my bed in a different place,
+sometimes in one room of the house, sometimes in the bushes outside.
+They never know where I shall sleep, for these dogs love to kill their
+enemy in the night."</p>
+
+<p>Silence fell upon us as Ke&#263;o finished. The wood fire crackled and
+flickered, lighting up fitfully the serious faces of the men sitting
+round.</p>
+
+<p>Half guessing our thoughts, Ke&#263;o said&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"To-night no attack will be made. We shall keep guard outside."</p>
+
+<p>We felt abashed. We confess thoughts of a nocturnal assassination had
+not pleased us, and yet these wild mountaineers had already provided
+for such a contingency. When we went outside the house before turning
+in, Dr. S. pointed out the figure of a motionless sentinel leaning on
+his rifle some little distance away.</p>
+
+<p>"It is odd that the women are so respected," I remarked to the doctor,
+"when no other law seems recognised. Do they never take part in a
+vendetta?"</p>
+
+<p>"Never as a woman," said the doctor. "If it should happen that a woman
+is the last surviving member of a family, the rest having been killed
+in a vendetta, she may continue the feud, but as a man. She then
+assumes the clothes of the opposite sex, procures arms and cuts
+herself off from the world, living as a hermit. Do you remember that
+Albanian <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span>woman at Easter time in Podgorica who kissed me so
+fervently?"</p>
+
+<p>We nodded, for we had been much amused at the scene. A wild-looking,
+unkempt Albanian woman had kissed the doctor most effusively.</p>
+
+<p>"Though she had assumed the woman's garb for the Easter festival, she
+is to all intents and purposes a man, and hence the man's kiss of
+peace. She then asked me for a revolver which I had promised her some
+time ago."</p>
+
+<p>We turned in soon after, but not before we heard another story.</p>
+
+<p>Two cairns on the road to Plavnica, and but half an hour from
+Podgorica, had often been pointed out to us. They were erected to the
+memory of an attack made on four gendarmes in connection with a
+long-standing vendetta. A party of Albanians had hidden themselves in
+two hollows beside the main road at night and as the gendarmes passed
+they fired into them, killing one and badly wounding two others. This
+happened shortly before our arrival.</p>
+
+<p>Another scene had been enacted a few days ago which they now related
+to us, to prevent us perhaps thinking too much of Ke&#263;o's story, and
+dreaming of it.</p>
+
+<p>The men of the Zeta had sworn revenge for the death of their gendarme,
+a famous man and great favourite, but at the time Prince Nicolas had
+sternly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span>forbidden reprisals. But such things are not forgotten, and a
+man had crossed the Zem into Albania. Coming on a party of men working
+in a field, he had fired, but his aim was unsteady, and he only
+wounded his intended victim slightly. Then he fled, hotly pursued, and
+received a bad wound as he crossed an open space. Still he managed to
+elude his pursuers for the time being, and reached the River Zem. Here
+his strength failed him and he clung, half fainting from loss of
+blood, to the bushes fringing the bank, unable to go any further. In
+this position a man of the clan Hotti found him, as he was coming
+along the river. Having heard the shots and seeing a bleeding
+Montenegrin, he put two and two together and promptly shot him. The
+other Albanians, directed by the report, now came up, and literally
+hacked the corpse to pieces. So the Zeta peasants are now two deaths
+to the bad. In conclusion, we were told that the authorities have
+reason to believe that the murdered man had been accompanied by others
+on his raid into a friendly country and were seeking for these men
+most diligently to punish them severely.</p>
+
+<p>For their violating the border laws?</p>
+
+<p>No, for deserting their comrade, and leaving him to meet his death
+alone, and the sentence for this craven deed is ten years.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we rode into Podgorica, and com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span>parative civilisation,
+after a period of roughing it of the hardest description. We had often
+gone from five a.m. till seven or eight p.m. on a couple of eggs and
+an occasional glass of milk, and had hard going all the time. It
+proved to us pretty conclusively how we of civilised lands
+disgustingly and habitually overeat ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>We finished considerably harder and more fit than at the start, and we
+had lived the whole time as the Montenegrins of the mountains live.</p>
+
+<p>One remarkable gift of which these mountaineers are possessed, and
+which deserves special remark, is that of long-distance talking. Men
+can speak with each other in the higher altitudes at distances of five
+miles and more, where our ears could hardly distinguish a faint sound
+of the human voice. Children are accustomed to it at an early age, and
+the quaint sight of a mother conversing with her child guarding some
+sheep on a neighbouring hillside is often to be witnessed. This gift
+must be acquired young, it seems, for Dr. S., who has lived twelve
+years amongst the Montenegrins, could neither make himself heard, nor
+understand, though he said that he had given himself much pains to
+learn the art.</p>
+
+<p>As we rode into Podgorica that morning, we were struck by meeting
+several groups of the Turkish inhabitants hanging about outside the
+town. Arriving in the town, only Montenegrins were to be seen <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span>in the
+streets, walking somewhat ostentatiously up and down, their natural
+swagger greatly exaggerated. The news of the elopement of another
+Turkish maiden soon reached us, and that day at dinner, an officer,
+detailed to prove the matter, told us the story.</p>
+
+<p>A young Montenegrin had won the heart of the maiden, and accompanied
+by a friend, he had gone to the wall of her house and given a
+preconcerted signal. The girl had come, but a dispute now arose
+between the men as to who should ultimately marry her, and she, in
+great disgust, had told them to go away and settle the matter. It
+seems that the girl had no particular wishes as to whom she should
+marry. At last the friends arranged matters satisfactorily and the
+girl was abducted, if one can call an elopement an abduction. However,
+in the eyes of the Turks it was a forcible abduction, and the fact
+that the girl was related to the most influential Turk in the town did
+not improve matters. The Beg had demanded the restitution of the girl
+at once and punishment of the offenders. The Prince had sent officials
+to settle the dispute. The girl, however, very naturally refused to be
+given back, as she would probably have been killed, and insisted on
+her baptism and marriage taking place forthwith.</p>
+
+<p>As the officer said to us&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"This is a free country, and we shall not give back the maiden against
+her will."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This had incensed the Turks beyond measure. The town was being
+patrolled nightly, and the Beg attempted flight to mark his anger. But
+this the Prince would not allow, and the Beg was stopped by gendarmes
+as he was entering a carriage one night. Only if he first gave up his
+orders, decorations, and his sword of honour, and, furthermore, took
+his wives and belongings with him, could he leave the country.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the state of affairs on our return. At night we went armed,
+and really had hopes of seeing a street fight. One evening a shot was
+fired in the town, and in the twinkling of an eye men turned out rifle
+in hand. Nothing came of it, and the crowd of several hundred armed
+Montenegrins slowly dispersed. Had further shots been fired, we were
+told, the peasants from far and near would have taken up the alarm,
+and in an hour thousands would have flocked into the town. No wonder
+the Turks were chary of taking revenge into their own hands.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Again, since writing the above, this statement has been
+fully proved. In February, 1902, a party of Turkish soldiers, half
+starved in their frontier block-houses, attempted a raid into
+Montenegro. They were accompanied by a brother of the famous Achmet
+Uiko; whose story has been related elsewhere. In spite of the caution
+which the raiders displayed, the news reached Podgorica as soon as
+they had crossed the border and seemingly eluded the vigilance of the
+Montenegrin frontier guards. A party of Montenegrins lay in wait for
+them in Dr. S.'s summer garden (a spot where we had often spent many
+pleasant hours) and the Turks were challenged. As an answer the
+marauders fired at their unseen challengers, doing no harm, but an
+answering volley killed two of them. The rest were captured, one only
+making good his escape, and were brought into the town. But the
+volleys had alarmed the whole district, hundreds of men pouring into
+Podgorica from all the neighbouring villages and hills, till many
+thousands had assembled.
+</p><p>
+&mdash;Cetinje, March, 1902.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span></p></div>
+
+<p>But the mischief done was great. Many families emigrated, much to
+Prince Nicolas' anger, for he encourages by every means in his power
+the extension of the Turkish population. They bring trade and
+cultivate the lands far more diligently than the Montenegrin warriors.</p>
+
+<p>So it was that we witnessed during these few days the festival of the
+Sultan's birthday, which seemed strangely incongruous considering the
+mixed feelings of the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, all the town officials called on the Turkish Consul.
+The militia were formed up and the whole, led by the Montenegrin War
+Banner, proceeded in solemn procession to the principal mosque. On
+their return, a royal salute was fired from a bastion of the old wall,
+and in the evening the town was illuminated.</p>
+
+<p>It was an extraordinary sight, and one not easily to be forgotten. All
+the houses stuck candles in every window, by order of the Prince; the
+market-place and the War Memorial were covered with lamps, but the
+most striking feature of all was the illumination on a small hill
+immediately behind the old town. This hill overlooks the town, and was
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span>covered by rows of lamps. In the streets Turks, Albanians, and
+Montenegrins jostled each other; at peace, at any rate, for one
+evening.</p>
+
+<p>A day or two later, a very different spectacle could have been
+witnessed. The main street leading to the church on the outskirts of
+the town was lined by waiting Montenegrins, and not a Turk was to be
+seen. Soon a carriage drove rapidly from the church, with a blushing
+Montenegrin girl and a gold-embroidered Montenegrin at her side. It
+was the late Turkish maiden, now a radiant Montenegrin bride and
+Christian. Several Turks had been caught endeavouring to approach the
+church with revolvers concealed, but were promptly turned back.</p>
+
+<p>And so ended an eventful week.</p>
+
+<p>One day, quite by accident, we discovered the arrest-house, or place
+where prisoners are detained pending their trial and sentence. We were
+passing a door which led down by a few steps into a courtyard, when an
+acquaintance of ours accosted us.</p>
+
+<p>We went inside and spoke to him for some minutes. He was a merry
+individual and a clerk in a Government office.</p>
+
+<p>He requested us to bring our camera and photograph him on the next
+day. Then he moved and a chain clanked. Neither of us had realised
+that this was a prison till that moment, though we had passed that
+door many times.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Next day we came again, and took a picture of our genial friend, whom
+we found seated and playing the gusla to a crowd of other prisoners,
+some exceedingly heavily chained.</p>
+
+<p>One or two guards came up and we spent an hour in a pleasant chat.</p>
+
+<p>Our friend was only "in" for a few days for making a rude remark about
+the Chief of Police. The chained men were mostly murderers, if we may
+use such a harsh term for those who are compelled to kill their
+enemies by the relentless laws of the vendetta, and who would be
+punished by the laws of man should they prove themselves guilty of
+cowardice.</p>
+
+<p>The vendetta in Montenegro is a legal anomaly. Men are punished in
+either case.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII</h2>
+
+<h3>S. Vasili and Ostrog&mdash;Our drive thither&mdash;Joyful pilgrims&mdash;Varied
+costumes&mdash;We meet the Vladika of Montenegro&mdash;The ordeal of hot
+coffee&mdash;A real pilgrimage&mdash;The shrine of S. Vasili&mdash;The ancient
+hermit&mdash;A miracle&mdash;Nik&#353;i&#263;&mdash;The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
+palace&mdash;We are disappointed in Nik&#353;i&#263;.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Though we visited the famous Monastery of Ostrog at the very beginning
+of our visit to Montenegro, and Nik&#353;i&#263; at the conclusion, both places
+lie so near together that we put them now in this order for the sake
+of simplicity.</p>
+
+<p>It was our good fortune to be enabled to witness the annual pilgrimage
+to the shrine of S. Vasili, which takes place during the Greek
+Whitsuntide.</p>
+
+<p>Ostrog is the Lourdes of the Balkans, as many equally miraculous cures
+take place as at the Roman Catholic rival in the Pyrenees. The
+Serb-speaking races from far and near flock there in enormous numbers,
+as well as many Mahometans and Catholics.</p>
+
+<p>S. Vasili (or Basil) was a native of the Hercegovina and a holy man of
+great repute. About a century ago he had a vision telling him to
+travel to Montenegro, and there to found a monastery. Accordingly he
+set out, taking with him a great <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span>quantity of building material, and
+chose a spot not far from Podgorica, on the right bank of the Zeta.
+But in the night the material disappeared, and S. Vasili hunted high
+and low. After a weary search it was found at Ostrog, and there he
+built his place of retreat, living many years, working many miracles,
+and dying as a saint. He is buried there, and it is said that any
+believer has but to visit the shrine, and whatever his wish may be, it
+will be fulfilled. Thus cripples have walked back the way which they
+were carried, sick have been made whole, and the mentally afflicted
+have gone away rejoicing. Certain it is that many wonderful cures are
+yearly effected there.</p>
+
+<p>Furthermore, the name of Ostrog appears often in the glorious annals
+of Montenegrin history. The oft-told tale of Prince Nicolas' father,
+Mirko, "The Sword of Montenegro," who was besieged in that
+inaccessible cleft in a precipice with a handful of men, is one of the
+most famous feats of Montenegrin arms. The charred cliffs still bear
+silent witness to the efforts which the Turks made to burn out the
+little garrison by throwing bundles of flaming straw from above.</p>
+
+<p>Ostrog is about six hours' drive from Podgorica. The road passes along
+the River Zeta, leaving the village of Spu&#382; on the right, and past the
+flourishing little town of Danilovgrad, soon to be the connecting
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span>town between Cetinje and Nik&#353;i&#263; on completion of the projected road.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing of interest in Danilovgrad, though the market is of
+some importance. A little way beyond the town a nearly complete
+building can be noticed. It is the lunatic asylum.</p>
+
+<p>From this point onwards the road ascends slowly but steadily until a
+deep valley lies to the right, and the Zeta assumes quite diminutive
+proportions. The mountains opposite rise to an ever-increasing height,
+until a few tiny buildings can be made out by the help of
+field-glasses. It is Ostrog. That morning we could make out the tents
+and booths of the pilgrims, and a dark mass of surging humanity. But
+it is still a very long distance away. The road climbs up to the head
+of the valley to the village of Bogeti&#263;, full that morning of the
+carriages of the wealthy pilgrims. During the Whitsun festival
+carriages are scarcely to be procured in the whole of Montenegro, or
+in Cattaro either.</p>
+
+<p>We broke our fast here, and then drove for another mile or so where a
+path leaves the road, and the pilgrim has either to proceed on
+horseback or on foot. We had to go on foot, and a very long and tiring
+walk it proved to be. Besides Dr. S. and his factotum, Lazo, we took
+another man with us, a wretched puny individual, but seemingly
+possessed of more endurance than any of us. He led us by a short cut
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span>over rocks, and up slippery breakneck walls of cliffs, over which our
+guide skipped nimbly, and having reached the top seemingly hours
+before us, sat down and beamed benevolently.</p>
+
+<p>Half-way, the rain came down in sheets, and we took shelter in a
+wayside inn, or rather hut. It was crowded with returning pilgrims
+whom the threatening weather had forced to depart earlier than is
+their wont.</p>
+
+<p>As the weather momentarily cleared, we pushed on, and the remaining
+distance was one of the most interesting walks it had been our fortune
+to witness. A ceaseless stream of pilgrims poured down the rocky path.
+It came on to rain again, but one and all wished us luck in the name
+of God and S. Vasili. Nearly every costume of the Balkans was
+represented. The Bosnian, in sack-shaped baggy trousers, fitting the
+lower leg, either of crimson or blue cloth, a smart-coloured Turkish
+jacket, a broad shawl round his waist displaying armouries of knives
+and pistols, on his head a fez wound round with a huge turban cloth,
+mounted, or leading a pack-horse; his wife in coarse black trousers;
+the Hercegovinans, with breastplates of silver ornaments, exquisite in
+workmanship and of great antiquity; sombre Servians, and white-clad
+Albanians, whose trousers are embroidered with black braid in
+fantastic tracing; fez, head-cloth, and neat little Montenegrin cap;
+trousers <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span>of red, pink, blue and black; gigantic Albanians in high
+riding-boots, sitting their horses like Life Guardsmen; Macedonians,
+Greeks, and even pure-blooded Turks; Montenegrins in creamy white
+frock-coats worn over gold-braided crimson jackets; and dark-blue
+costumes with red worsted tassels of the poor Dalmatian peasants&mdash;all
+passed us in bewildering confusion.</p>
+
+<p>The women (who were for the most part Montenegrin) showed up well in
+comparison with their sisters from Sarajevo, whose attire is, to say
+the least, comical. For in the larger towns of the Austrian occupation
+territory they are undergoing the stage from East to West, and appear
+in huge Turkish trousers and cheap, gaudy European blouses. The
+contrast between the Sarajevan and the graceful Montenegrin is
+positively ludicrous. But of all the costumes, male and female, the
+palm must be given to the Montenegrin. They carry themselves with a
+princely air, and their picturesque costume is a model of good taste;
+for Montenegro is, as Mr. Gladstone has remarked, the beach on which
+was thrown up the remnants of Balkan freedom. After the battle of
+Kossovo, all the Serb nobility who would not submit to the Turk fled
+to Crnagora, and the traces of heredity are easily to be recognised in
+their superb carriage.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="image_45" id="image_45"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/349.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="MONTENEGRIN WOMEN" title="MONTENEGRIN WOMEN" />
+<span class="caption">MONTENEGRIN WOMEN</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was well after midday when we reached the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span>plateau on which the
+lower and modern monastery is situated. We entered through a gate into
+a wide path bordered with booths in which crowds of joyful pilgrims
+sat refreshing themselves. In spite of the departing crowds that we
+had passed, the place was still densely packed, for over twenty
+thousand people visit Ostrog. We squeezed into one of the booths and
+sat watching the surging mass pass to and fro.</p>
+
+<p>The mixture of costume was even more marked than on the path below. It
+was a brilliant kaleidoscope of colour. Nothing but colour&mdash;colour.
+Very rarely could a man in European clothes (the richer Dalmatians) be
+noticed, and he seemed strangely out of place and harmony.</p>
+
+<p>As we sat and gazed, two Bosnian minstrels, from bad memory and an
+indifferent ear, began playing on a fiddle and a guitar, and though
+their music was atrocious, the wild Turkish songs which they sang gave
+the finishing touch to the scene. It was not till they began playing
+snatches of music-hall airs, such long-forgotten tunes as "Daisy,"
+that we hurriedly moved on.</p>
+
+<p>The Archbishop, Mitrofanban, heard of our arrival soon after, and
+immediately sent for us. When we approached, he was sitting on the
+steps of a house, surrounded by a brilliant staff of Montenegrin
+nobles and many priests, while below a great crowd of pilgrims stood
+in a ring, watching the national <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span>dance, which was being performed
+before His Grace. The dance stopped as we drew near. The Archbishop
+received us very kindly&mdash;this was our first meeting with him&mdash;and
+expressed his pleasure to see strangers from such a distant land in
+Ostrog. He assigned a room to us in his house, and gave orders for us
+to be fed during our stay. Murmuring our thanks, we attempted to
+withdraw, but we did not escape before we had solemnly drunk the usual
+coffee. It was rather an ordeal to consume that very hot coffee in the
+face of the multitude, and we were painfully conscious of our many
+shortcomings in personal appearance. Muddy and half-wet riding clothes
+and flannel shirts do not seem to go with crimson and gold, high boots
+of patent leather, and sparkling orders. A Horseguardsman's uniform
+would be more in keeping. When we left, the dancing resumed and was
+kept up till a late hour that night. We noticed another national dance
+at Ostrog. A much more barbaric performance than the stately and
+solemn movement of the ring dance, or kolo.</p>
+
+<p>In this case two performers dance at a time, a man and a woman. A
+small ring is made by the spectators, who also supply the relay
+couples. The man endeavours to spring as high as possible into the
+air, emitting short, Red Indian yells, and firing his revolver. The
+woman gives more decorous jumps; and, keeping opposite each other,
+they leap<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span>backwards and forwards across the small open space. After
+a few minutes they are unceremoniously pushed aside, after giving each
+other a hasty kiss, and another couple takes their place. This goes on
+<i>ad lib.</i>, and we were soothed to sleep by those wild yells.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_46" id="image_46"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/354.jpg" width="500" height="348" alt="THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG" title="THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG" />
+<span class="caption">THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next morning we were up bright and early, and about seven o'clock
+commenced the actual pilgrimage. A steep and stony path winds up
+through a dense wood for about an hour. Fanatical pilgrims make this
+journey sometimes barefoot, but the ordeal is sufficiently severe
+without these little additions. The whole way is lined with beggars,
+sometimes hardly recognisable as human beings, who must reap a rich
+harvest by the exhibition of their ghastly woes. <i>They</i> constitute the
+ordeal.</p>
+
+<p>Maimed stumps of limbs, deformed children, repulsive and festering
+sores, and other diseases too foul for description were proudly
+exhibited at every step. A cap was placed invitingly in front of each,
+and partly filled with alms already given. In piteous agony diseased
+hands and quavering voices besought us in the name of God and their
+saint to alleviate their sufferings with the gift of a kreutzer. It
+was not a sight that will lightly escape the memory.</p>
+
+<p>We reached the top, hot and nauseated, but were fully compensated by
+the unique view. The monastery is built under an overhanging precipice
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span>which rises to a giddy height above. The charred rocks bear telling
+evidence to the miracles which have saved the little edifice from
+burning.</p>
+
+<p>We went straight to the shrine, through a little door scarcely more
+than four feet high (the wooden lintels of which being the handiwork
+of S. Vasili were piously kissed by the Montenegrins), through two
+long and narrow passages hewn from the living rock and emerged
+suddenly in a small rock chamber, dimly lit by an oil lamp and about
+twelve feet square. The five of us filled the space, and, as our eyes
+grew accustomed to the gloom, we were able to distinguish a wooden
+shrine taking up the whole length of one side&mdash;where the mortal
+remains of the Hercegovinan lay. Another side was occupied by an open
+coffin containing the vestments and crucifix. On a chair sat a Greek
+priest who rose when we entered. At the foot of the shrine lay a
+cripple.</p>
+
+<p>We stood for some minutes in utter silence, and then followed the lead
+of the doctor, who approached the coffin and kissed the crucifix,
+which a priest gave to us all in turn: a plate for alms lay on the
+vestments: then the woodwork of the shrine was likewise kissed, and we
+emerged again into the narrow gallery.</p>
+
+<p>The heat had been intense in the little chapel, and we were in that
+limp and exhausted state that one experiences in a Turkish bath.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="image_47" id="image_47"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/357.jpg" width="400" height="565" alt="THE UPPER MONASTERY" title="THE UPPER MONASTERY" />
+<span class="caption">THE UPPER MONASTERY</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The gallery was open on one side where a large bell was fixed, and
+this our puny guide struck four times vigorously in the sign of a
+cross without a word of warning.</p>
+
+<p>After the impressive solemnity and silence of the preceding minutes,
+we nearly jumped out of our skins, and when our injured hearing had
+sufficiently recovered so that we could distinguish the sound of our
+own voices, we demanded an explanation of this apparently childish and
+wanton outrage.</p>
+
+<p>He said that he had struck the bell for the renewal of his strength.
+It appeared an unnecessary request.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. S. explained that pilgrims strike the bell on emerging from the
+shrine, praying for some special benefit.</p>
+
+<p>We next went up a lot of steps to a platform under the shelving cliff
+where there was a beautiful spring of water. The view which it
+commanded was magnificent. Below us lay the lower monastery and the
+deep valley of the Zeta, the mountains rising again sharply on the
+further side; to the right and left stretched wooded slopes.</p>
+
+<p>Then we descended again and paid the priest a visit. This man, over
+eighty years of age, has spent forty years of his life as a hermit in
+that rocky crag. With the exception of Whitsuntide and the occasional
+visits of pilgrims, he lives entirely alone, subsisting on vegetables.
+His appearance was most <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span>patriarchal, his snowy white beard and
+saintly look impressing us greatly. When he heard that we were from
+England, he embraced and kissed us repeatedly, much to our
+embarrassment. His joy knew no bounds, and he kept us with him in his
+rock-hewn cell for a considerable time. He even consented to be
+photographed, for the first time in his life, facing the ordeal with
+unflinching courage.</p>
+
+<p>The descent to the lower monastery was made in record time, and with
+half-closed eyes. We found the Archbishop standing in the shade of an
+enormous tree surrounded by a large ring of Montenegrins. He beckoned
+to us, asking us for our impressions, and needless to say we solemnly
+drank coffee. This beverage began to pall before we left Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>After partaking of a splendid meal (for the country), washed down with
+wine such as is not to be obtained elsewhere in the land, we paid a
+farewell visit to His Grace and departed.</p>
+
+<p>Already the booths were fast disappearing and a mere handful of
+peasants remained. Many pilgrims journey from seven to eight days on
+foot or on horseback to Ostrog, over mountain passes and barren
+regions; so that the pilgrimage is very real.</p>
+
+<p>Before we leave Ostrog, we will mention one of the miracles which we
+had the opportunity of authenticating.</p>
+
+<p>A wretched Turk living to-day in Podgorica, a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span>cripple crawling
+painfully on hands and knees, once made the pilgrimage to Ostrog.
+Friends carried him to the shrine, where he lay all night. Then he
+rose up and walked back to Podgorica rejoicing, with those who had
+carried him the day before. As he crossed the Vizier bridge, he
+sceptically remarked that he would have been healed without undergoing
+the farce of the pilgrimage. Straightway he fell to the ground, the
+same helpless cripple that he was before.</p>
+
+<p>The Turk and the witnesses still live&mdash;in fact it happened but a few
+years ago&mdash;to tell the tale.</p>
+
+<p>The road to Nik&#353;i&#263;, which we left to proceed to Ostrog, climbs to the
+height of 750 metres in crossing the mountain ridge dividing the
+valley of the Zeta from that of Nik&#353;i&#263;. The scenery is throughout fine
+and wild. In a succession of serpentines, the road descends sharply on
+to the great plain, the fertile valley of Nik&#353;i&#263;.</p>
+
+<p>The town can be seen immediately on leaving the mountainous gorge, the
+cupola of the cathedral standing up boldly from the surrounding flat.</p>
+
+<p>A long viaduct is crossed, built by the Russians, at the foot of the
+mountain, for in the winter floods are common, and Nik&#353;i&#263; was at times
+nearly cut off from the rest of Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>Nik&#353;i&#263; is probably the coming capital of Montenegro. In fact, it has
+been but a question of money <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span>that has prevented the removal of the
+Government from Cetinje a long time ago.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince has recently built himself a large palace, the Russians
+have erected a large church, and roads are now in the course of
+construction connecting it with Risano on the Bocche di Cattaro, and
+Cetinje, and again with the Cattaro-Cetinje road.</p>
+
+<p>When these roads are completed, Nik&#353;i&#263; will have a most central
+position, and the unquestionably rich and fertile plain can be opened
+up. Without doubt it is the coming trading centre, and already it is
+running Podgorica very close.</p>
+
+<p>The day after our arrival&mdash;we had arrived in the night&mdash;we saw the
+town under most unfavourable conditions. A violent thunderstorm had
+raged incessantly for many hours, and the streets were in parts
+inundated. Water was pouring in miniature waterfalls from the ground
+floors of many houses which possessed a higher background. Braving the
+elements, and often making detours to avoid the lakes, we walked to
+the palace and the church. Both lie together outside the town.</p>
+
+<p>A flight of steps lead up an artificial mound, over-shadowing the
+somewhat barrack-like palace, where stands the new cathedral. It is
+the most striking edifice in the whole country, surmounted with a
+dingy light yellow cupola. It is not pretty or tasteful, but it is
+distinctly imposing, and one can well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span>realise the marvellings that
+it has given the simple Montenegrins. Inside it is severely plain and
+void of any furniture, except the thrones for the Royal Family. Round
+the walls are lists of the men who have fallen in recent wars.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_48" id="image_48"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/363_1.jpg" width="500" height="330" alt="THE CHURCH, NIK&#352;I&#262;" title="THE CHURCH, NIK&#352;I&#262;" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHURCH, NIK&#352;I&#262;</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_49" id="image_49"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/363_2.jpg" width="500" height="364" alt="THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE" title="THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE" />
+<span class="caption">THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The platform on which the church stands commands a view of the
+country. The simplicity of Prince Nicolas' palace is thus accentuated,
+for it is situated on perfectly open ground, and there is no garden or
+any railings round it. Naked and forlorn, it gives the spectator a sad
+impression of poverty. On another side is the old Church of Nik&#353;i&#263;,
+ridiculously small and half-ruined. The Russians did a good deed, for
+the comparison is absolutely absurd if a comparison can be drawn
+between a hovel and a S. Peter's.</p>
+
+<p>The town is a long straggling collection of small houses, very
+uninteresting and plain, and beyond lies the historical ruin of the
+old fortress, stormed by Prince Nicolas in person.</p>
+
+<p>In the town itself, broad streets and an enormous market-place are the
+only features.</p>
+
+<p>We spent a few days in Nik&#353;i&#263;, but in this instance we were never able
+to rid ourselves of the first impressions, and we left gladly, though
+the town was not without its humour. It contains the only brewery in
+Montenegro, a ramshackle place and producing very poor beer. The post
+office is a tumble-down <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span>outhouse, also we were shown the house which
+would in the course of time be the Bank of Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>It is hard to realise that Nik&#353;i&#263; is the coming town, in spite of its
+gaudy cathedral, but progress makes sometimes wonderful strides.</p>
+
+<p>Our visit to Nik&#353;i&#263; was a failure all round. We arrived to see the
+Prince ride out of the town at the head of a great cavalcade for the
+mountains, and again missed the opportunity of presenting ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>Our intended tour to the Durmitor, Montenegro's highest mountain, was
+frustrated, owing to the Prince's retinue having taken every horse in
+the place, in addition to the weather having completely broken up, and
+so we missed one of the finest parts of the country.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX</h2>
+
+<h3>The Club and its members&mdash;Gugga&mdash;Irregularities of time&mdash;The absence
+of the gentle muse and our surprise&mdash;The musician's story and his
+subsequent fate&mdash;The Black Earth&mdash;A typical border house&mdash;The ordeal
+of infancy&mdash;A realistic performance which is misunderstood&mdash;Concerning
+a memorable drive&mdash;A fervent prayer.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Before we leave Podgorica for good our readers must be introduced to
+the Club. It was not a club in the English sense of the word, but P.
+and I always called that hour or two at sunset so delightfully spent
+in the company of that cosmopolitan gathering, the Club. Podgorica was
+our base, from which we made all our trips and excursions, so that we
+were there off and on during the whole of our lengthy sojourn amongst
+the sons of the Black Mountain. From the "members" we gleaned many
+stories of past and present vendettas and quaint customs which we had
+not had the good fortune to witness ourselves. Amongst the regular
+members was of course Dr. S., who was three nationalities rolled into
+one&mdash;to explain, born in Roumania, he entered into Austrian service
+and became an Austrian subject, and finally twelve years in Montenegro
+had quite "Montenegrinised" him. He was very angry if we <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span>told him
+this. In the course of his duties as sole veterinary surgeon he had
+travelled, and travelled continually from one end of the land to the
+other, there was not a corner or collection of huts where he had not
+been. He had been snowed up in winter in the mountains, attacked by
+wolves, and shot at by Albanians, and had witnessed many a scene of
+the vendetta.</p>
+
+<p>Another even more interesting character was L., an Austrian, who for
+years had been employed by scientific institutions in ornithological
+and geological research in Montenegro and Albania. He had carried his
+life in his hands for weeks together amongst the untameable
+mountaineers across the border. A man whose terribly hard life had
+turned him into a man of bone and muscle, rivalling the most active
+Montenegrin in strength and endurance. And what a fund of anecdote and
+adventure he could reel off! Without doubt he was one of the most
+interesting and fascinating men we have ever met; a perfect rifle,
+gun, and revolver shot, fine horseman and entertaining companion.</p>
+
+<p>Then there was a Montenegrin professor, he was the father of the
+party, though the tales <i>he</i> told were not at all becoming to his age
+and learning. He spoke about eight languages well and perhaps that had
+slightly turned his brain. Once he had served a term of imprisonment
+for an outspoken criticism, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span>when he became tired of it, he sent
+an ultimatum to the effect that if he were not released at once, he
+would break out himself, take a rifle and bundle of cartridges and
+hold the Lov&#263;en (a high mountain) against all comers. The originality
+of his threat gained him his freedom. Since then he has kept a closer
+guard over that unruly member and only unburdened himself in the
+seclusion of the Club. Otherwise P., myself, and a young and intensely
+patriotic Scotchman completed the list of regular members.</p>
+
+<p>We had a few occasional "country members," officers and officials whom
+some of us knew well from Cetinje or Nik&#353;i&#263;, but we were mostly alone.
+At first we met in the garden of one Petri, a good-tempered giant of
+about six feet eight inches, but in spite of our patronage he managed
+to ruin himself at cards and so we were forced to adjourn to an old
+Albanian rascal named Gugga. What fun we had with that dear old boy,
+whom we irreverently called Skenderbeg! One day in a moment of
+ill-advised confidence he had told us that he was descended from that
+great Albanian hero and patriot. But he was an educated and travelled
+man, having lived for many years in Venice, spoke an excellent Italian
+and correspondingly atrocious German, which latter he delighted to
+inflict upon us. He was most amusing in his hatred and contempt of the
+Montenegrin peasant.</p>
+
+<p>Gugga kept a big shop, and when irritated by a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span>customer he had a
+regular formula which loses much of its wit when translated, as it
+rhymes in Serb. The humble Montenegrin is remarkably feminine in the
+way he shops. He will spend half an hour in the store examining
+everything with great curiosity. At last he will ask the price of a
+certain article. Gugga, whose choler has been slowly rising during his
+customer's long and tiring inspection, gives a purposely indistinct
+answer, whereupon the Montenegrin will inquire "What does he say?"
+Gugga, furious at being spoken to in the third person, turns savagely
+upon the astonished Montenegrin saying&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+"What dost thou say? What dost thou mean?<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">What stinks here? Get out, ass and son of an ass."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Another famous saying of his was in speaking of Montenegro, its past
+and present rulers. "This land," Gugga would say in all seriousness,
+"was first accursed by God, its maker; then by Diocletian, then by the
+Sultan, then by our Gospodar (Prince), and lastly by Gospodin
+Milovan." Gospodin (Mr.) Milovan was the last Governor of Podgorica, a
+man always endeavouring to introduce modern improvements into the
+town, much to the disgust of its inhabitants who are nothing if not
+conservative, and amongst other sufferers was our friend Gugga. He
+substitutes the word "blessed" for "accursed," according to his
+audience.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We met after the arrival of the mail diligence from Cetinje about
+half-past six or seven o'clock in the evening. Proceedings usually
+commenced with a heated argument as to the time, the last comer being
+accused of unpunctuality. It was always an unsatisfactory argument,
+for no member ever had the same time as another. A sort of
+go-as-you-please time was kept in the town, but as either your watch
+invariably gained ten minutes in the day&mdash;according to the town clock
+it did&mdash;or lost a quarter of an hour, no one had any confidence in the
+official time, and each swore to the regularity of his own timepiece.
+One great advantage of this discrepancy of time was that try as one
+would, one was never late for an appointment. Somebody was sure to be
+present to back up an indignant protest, that you were five minutes
+early.</p>
+
+<p>One evening was particularly memorable, it was in Petri's garden,
+then, that we had met as usual. P. was in a pensive and sentimental
+mood, usually caused by the magnificent sunsets. From our table we
+commanded a splendid view of those crimson-tinted peaks in the far
+distance, and the mysterious purple gloom which, like a rich robe,
+covered the intervening hills. By some strange coincidence the subject
+of music came up, and P. bitterly lamented the absence of that gentle
+muse from such grand surroundings. I don't believe there is a piano in
+the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span>country except at the girls' school at Cetinje. The Scotchman had
+suggested the gusla as a substitute, and had been met with derisive
+laughter, for he had made the suggestion in all good faith. He was one
+of the most unmusical men I have ever met. The professor had followed
+this up with a learned discourse on the gusla, and the lesson to be
+learnt from it in the origin and development of modern music, when
+suddenly the sounds of a violin, being tuned in the room behind us,
+arrested his flow of speech. In another few moments the unseen
+musician began to play, and a deep silence fell upon us, for he was
+playing our music and recalling memories of bygone days. Snatches from
+Italian opera, and old well-known songs followed each other as we sat
+in the twilight and listened, conjuring up pictures of opera-house and
+concert-hall in this far-away land. Then the music ceased, and the
+tinkling of coins on a plate proclaimed the status of our serenader.
+In a few minutes a ragged, fair-haired boy stood before us, wearily
+holding a plate in his hand. As we dived into our pockets the doctor
+asked him in Serb, who he was and whence he came. He gazed blankly in
+answer, and P. said to me, "He looks quite English." A joyful smile
+lit up his tired face as he answered&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I am English, sir. I will fetch father; he will be so pleased."</p>
+
+<p>His father came out, a battered violin under his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span>arm, and we were all
+struck with his miserable half-starved and ragged appearance. He
+played to us, he did not even play well, poor fellow, but still we
+listened appreciatively, and then some of us took him home, fed him,
+and we all contributed to his wardrobe. We were all of different sizes
+and build, and the result was sadly comical. Before he left us he told
+his story. It was not new or even interesting, but intensely pathetic;
+one of a large family, fair education, and finally a clerk at &pound;80 a
+year. A pretty typewriter, marriage, and no help from his father.
+First the girl wife was dismissed, and then the boy husband. The child
+was born, and the mother died from lack of proper nourishment and
+comfort. For a few years the father earned a few coppers by playing
+before public-houses in the East End, and then took to the road.
+Somehow or other he found himself on the Continent, and after many
+years he had turned up here. It was all very vague and incoherent.
+Often starving, homeless, and speaking no language but his own, is it
+to be wondered that the man had lost count of days, years, and time?
+Now he had a desire to journey to Greece, why, he knew not, but he
+clung to it with all a weak man's obstinacy. We could never let him
+trudge through Albania, and so the Scotchman procured him a free
+passage to Corfu by steamer. He left us one morning, leading his son
+by the hand, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span>and over his shoulder a sack containing his worldly
+possessions, a sorrowful, ludicrous, and pitiful picture.</p>
+
+<p>Many weeks afterwards&mdash;P. and I had been on an expedition in the
+meantime&mdash;we sat again in Petri's garden at just such a sunset. We
+remembered the musician, and one of us jokingly remarked that his
+music would not be so appreciated in Greece as by us music-starved
+exiles. Then the Austrian told us the sequel. He had heard it from a
+murderous Albanian friend of his, who sometimes brought him specimens.
+The wanderer had not used his ticket, and had walked from Antivari to
+Dulcigno, from thence he had attempted his original plan of crossing
+Albania on foot. He knew nothing of geography or nationality, and
+doubtless imagined that he could earn his way as in a civilised
+country. On the way to Scutari a band of Albanians stopped him, and he
+played to them. The instrument pleased them, and they took it from
+him. Then they took the boy&mdash;though why they did so is not clear, for
+they do not kidnap children&mdash;and the father, in a fit of wild despair,
+sprang at the nearest Albanian. The Albanians are always glad of an
+excuse to kill; the wanderer found his death in perhaps the only
+moment of heroism that he had displayed throughout his wretched life.
+Such, though, was the story our informant had gleaned, and it took the
+edge off our evening's amusement.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>But other evenings we were merry, and many were the wonderful stories
+of adventure told over bottled beer and an extraordinary salad which
+old Gugga mixed before us&mdash;to make an appetite, as he said.</p>
+
+<p>We got to love Podgorica in the end, and left its streets, full of
+gaudy-coloured humanity, the old shot-riddled town across the river,
+and the glorious mountain panorama, with sorrow. There was always
+something to talk about, from a threatened raid of the Albanians to
+the abduction of a Turkish maiden. Death is always very near in that
+unknown border town.</p>
+
+<p>The day of our final departure from Podgorica, we drove to the famous
+Crna Zemlja, or Black Earth.</p>
+
+<p>The object of our visit was chiefly to call on a young Albanian, who
+had repeatedly invited us. Though an Albanian, he is a Montenegrin
+subject and a corporal in the standing army.</p>
+
+<p>As a matter of fact, he is a fugitive from his clan, the Klementi,
+where his life is forfeited in a blood feud. The Prince wisely uses
+such men as a kind of extra border guard, giving them land and houses
+on the actual frontier line, knowing that they will keep a doubly
+sharp watch to preserve their own lives.</p>
+
+<p>The Black Earth is an absolutely flat and treeless plain, covered at
+times with grass, which mischievous Albanians love to set fire to in
+the hopes of some <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span>sport with peasants, who might attempt to
+extinguish the conflagration. The River Zem divides it and constitutes
+the boundary, but the land on both sides is neutral by mutual consent.
+It is courting death to walk upon it. Block-houses dot it at frequent
+intervals, containing small garrisons of Montenegrin and Turkish
+soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>As we drove past the first Montenegrin block-house, we were reminded
+of a ride which we once took to it, while our knowledge of the border
+dangers was nil. On that occasion we had cantered, innocently,
+straight towards it, and were amused to see its little garrison
+promptly turn out. A man came running towards us motioning us to halt.
+This unmistakable request we suddenly obeyed, for the men behind had
+covered us with their rifles.</p>
+
+<p>Explanations followed, and the rest of the men came up smiling; but
+they sent us back towards Podgorica at once, which was only half an
+hour's ride away&mdash;saying that a bullet from the overlooking hill would
+be no unusual thing.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we left this block-house on our left, and, striking the Zem, we
+drove along it till we reached a solitary house. A few hundred yards
+further down was a Turkish fort, with the banner of the Star and
+Crescent hanging lazily at the mast.</p>
+
+<p>This house was the home of our friend, quite a young man of sixteen,
+but married and a proud <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span>father. He could well have been mistaken for
+twenty-five.</p>
+
+<p>He was working in his field as we drew near, and hurried to meet us.
+First of all we went to the Zem, which fifty yards away would be
+unnoticed, as it lies between two deep banks, which break off suddenly
+and without any indication. This historical little river looked very
+peaceful as it flowed through deep basins, hollowed out of the rocky
+bed, and splashed over great boulders. How often has it been crossed
+by bands of men intent on bloodshed and murder, who often recrossed,
+flying and hunted fugitives! What quantities of blood have dyed those
+clear and crystal pools! What awful doings of death have they
+reflected!</p>
+
+<p>The Turkish soldiers opposite turned out, and viewed our movements
+inquisitively. Our Albanian friend hinted that a too lengthy
+inspection might be misunderstood, so we withdrew.</p>
+
+<p>The house was a curiosity. One-storied, and solidly built of stone; it
+had no windows, but suggestive loopholes. The ground floor was empty.
+We looked inside for the staircase, but in vain, and this was scarcely
+odd, because there was none. The family lives above, and the only
+means of entry to their dwelling is by a ladder. This is drawn up
+after the last man, for the night.</p>
+
+<p>As we clambered up the ladder and crawled <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span>through the narrow doorway,
+the young mother (of fifteen) kissed our hands.</p>
+
+<p>An aged lady, evidently the great-grandmother of one of the young
+couple&mdash;at least, to judge by her decrepit appearance, she might well
+have been that (in reality she was the boy's mother)&mdash;sat spinning in
+a corner. A weeping and noisy infant lay strapped immovably in a
+wooden cradle with no rockers, which a young maiden attempted to
+soothe by covering it with a thick cloth and rocking it vigorously.</p>
+
+<p>That Montenegrins survive the ordeal of infancy is a proof of their
+iron constitutions. An ordinary healthy English baby would be
+suffocated in five minutes under that hermetic pall, or, escaping this
+fate, would die of concussion of the brain from violent jarring to and
+fro, which we have inadvertently termed "rocking."</p>
+
+<p>A wood fire smouldered in one corner of the room, and the embers were
+blown into flames as the little can of water was placed in them to
+boil. As the water boils, several spoonfuls of coffee are put in&mdash;of
+the <i>good</i> coffee, only used for distinguished visitors&mdash;and the whole
+allowed to boil up three or four times. Then cups are produced, sugar
+added, and the thick mixture poured out. This beverage is drunk when
+it is cool enough, and when the grounds have sunk in a thick sediment
+at the bottom of the cup.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_50" id="image_50"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/379_1.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE" title="A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE" />
+<span class="caption">A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE</span>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="image_51" id="image_51"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/379_2.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA" title="AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA" />
+<span class="caption">AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The room, our treatment, and the coffee-brewing are typical of many
+such visits that we paid in Montenegro.</p>
+
+<p>Afterwards spirits were produced, tobacco tins exchanged, and
+arms&mdash;rifles, revolvers, and handjars&mdash;inspected and criticised. Any
+relics or curiosities are produced, and everyone becomes very
+friendly.</p>
+
+<p>Before we left, an old man (some relation of our host) came up as we
+were examining a fine handjar, that heavy and hiltless sword which
+forms part of both the Albanian and Montenegrin fighting kit, though
+they are no longer universally carried in times of peace. The handy
+revolver has replaced the former beltful of pistols and yataghan. But
+in border fighting the handjar is always taken, and, when time
+permits, the victim is still decapitated by a single blow of that
+murderous weapon.</p>
+
+<p>The old man&mdash;a villainous-looking rascal, with shaven head and
+scalping lock&mdash;favoured us with a graphic mimicry of a fight, showing
+the methods in his day. He took the handjar between his teeth and a
+musket in his hands, yelling and scowling fearfully; then, the last
+cartridge fired or the moment for hand-to-hand combat arrived, the
+rifle was thrown away, and brandishing the handjar in the air, he
+darted towards us. It was a most realistic performance, and made us
+feel thankful that it was only play.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly the old man stopped his wild yelling <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span>and burst out laughing.
+He laughed till the tears ran down his cheeks.</p>
+
+<p>We glanced behind us at the loophole door, and there, with a horrified
+look, peered our driver, revolver in hand.</p>
+
+<p>He thought that we were being murdered. He was a foreigner and new to
+Podgorica, but more of him anon.</p>
+
+<p>Then we took our leave and drove on to another block-house, and
+visited the commandant. After that we returned to Podgorica, and that
+afternoon, affectionate leave-takings over, we departed for Cetinje,
+en route for Cattaro.</p>
+
+<p>That drive, which should have taken about seven hours, was a memorable
+one, and a fitting conclusion to our visit.</p>
+
+<p>We wired to the hotel in Cetinje in the morning, ordering supper to be
+ready for eight o'clock. Then we had hoped to leave at one p.m. At two
+we again wired from Podgorica for supper to be delayed till ten.</p>
+
+<p>A hundred yards from the town we stopped, and the driver mended some
+harness with a piece of wire. A mile further on something else broke.
+If nothing gave way, a horse kicked a leg over a trace, necessitating
+its partial unharnessing. Each time the driver (he of the morning's
+drive and a native of Hercegovina) descended, swearing softly between
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span>clenched teeth, in caressing tones, and his face set in a forced
+smile. If we had not understood what he said, he might have been
+addressing endearing remarks to his horse, or holding serious converse
+with a friend.</p>
+
+<p>It became very monotonous after a few hours&mdash;should we go for three
+hundred yards without a stop of five or ten minutes, it was a matter
+for comment. We began to feel alarmed, fearing worse things.</p>
+
+<p>Rijeka we reached at eight p.m. instead of five, and we sent another
+wire, stating our arrival to be uncertain, if not improbable.</p>
+
+<p>We seriously contemplated staying the night, but an appointment next
+morning forced us to give up this idea.</p>
+
+<p>After an hour's rest we proceeded. The same weary repetition was
+resumed, either the near side horse lashed out violently and remained
+hung over a trace, or the axle boom or something broke.</p>
+
+<p>We dozed, and I awoke from a sudden jar to find the driver sound
+asleep, the horses wandering aimlessly along, a precipice of many
+hundred feet below us on one side. The road takes sharp turns every
+hundred yards, rendering it impossible to see far ahead, and traffic
+even at night is not uncommon. Drivers shout when nearing a corner,
+particularly on coming downhill, which they do at a great pace. I
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span>shuddered at the thought of a carriage dashing suddenly round a
+corner upon us as we painfully climbed, for our driver slept soundly.
+I even shouted in his ear, but in vain. Then I struck him, and with
+effect. Inured as we were already by the dangers of that drive, we
+slept no more.</p>
+
+<p>I looked at my watch; it was one o'clock. In another hour the look-out
+hut of Bella Vista loomed up indistinctly, and we thought of that
+grand view of the Lake of Scutari and the mountain panorama to be seen
+from there.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped all the way down into Cetinje, at intervals, and had a long
+wait actually in the town itself while the driver hunted up a friend
+and borrowed a spanner.</p>
+
+<p>At three a.m. we arrived, and refused the offer of our driver to take
+us down to Cattaro next day. He assured us that everything would be in
+order by the afternoon. But we declined, even though he made us a
+cheap offer, below the ordinary price. We had no more confidence in
+him or his carriage, or his wonderful kicking horse&mdash;in fact, we gave
+quite a curt and rude refusal, when he pressed the matter.</p>
+
+<p>Safe inside the old-fashioned hostelry of Reinwein, we thanked
+Providence for our safe arrival. We had been through a few dangerous
+experiences during our sojourn in the Land of the Black Mountain, but
+none worse than this.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The carriage was small, and we suffered agonies from cramp; every
+moment we expected to see it fall to pieces; one of the horses lashed
+out violently, narrowly missing the face of the driver, if only
+touched with the whip, every time hitching itself over a trace and
+threatening to kick the decrepit structure behind it to bits; the
+devilish anger of the man, his lurid and comprehensive cursing in that
+soft voice, the danger of dashing over a precipice, constituted a
+journey which we fervently pray may never again fall to our lot.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX</h2>
+
+<h3>We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje&mdash;A Montenegrin wake and its
+consequences&mdash;A hero's death&mdash;Montenegrin conversation&mdash;Needless
+appeals to the Deity&mdash;We visit the hospital.</h3>
+
+
+<p>We have said that there are not many stirring events happening in
+Cetinje. But this was due to the fact that we had only a very
+superficial knowledge of the town. To appreciate it fully, though, it
+is absolutely necessary to know the country and the people first. We
+had quite made up our minds to go down to Cattaro the day following
+the memorable drive from Podgorica, but a mutual acquaintance, a
+Montenegrin of high standing, met us as we strolled aimlessly down the
+main street that morning. When he heard that we were leaving in a few
+hours, he became quite excited. Had we really seen everything, in
+Cetinje too?</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said we. "We have visited the monastery, watched the soldiers
+drilling, chatted with the criminals, and know every burgher of the
+town, at least by sight."</p>
+
+<p>"First you must see the hospital and then you <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span>must attend a trial in
+the Supreme Court of Appeal," said our seducer. "And as for
+vendettas," he added with pride, "we too have our little quarrels. On
+the spot you are standing a man was shot five years ago, and in the
+act of dying he killed his assailant."</p>
+
+<p>"Tell us the story," we broke in eagerly. Montenegro is demoralising
+in this respect. One becomes so used to bloodthirsty anecdotes that
+one wonders how other countries exist without the excitement of the
+vendetta. Then the intercourse with noted murderers and assassins
+makes a mere ordinary man whose hands are not stained with the blood
+of his fellow-beings seem dull and tame. Our eagerness pleased our
+friend and we adjourned to the caf&eacute; opposite.</p>
+
+<p>About five years ago a near relation of the Prince died, and was taken
+to the home of Petrovi&#263; in Njegu&#353;i. To do honour to the dead man, the
+men of Cetinje and the men of Bajice&mdash;a village at the further end of
+the valley&mdash;accompanied the corpse as a guard of honour.</p>
+
+<p>Now a corpse is waked in true Irish style in this country, and by the
+time the escort had returned to the valley of Cetinje and halted at
+Bajice for a parting glass, the condition of the mourners resembled
+the close of a Bank Holiday in London. The too liberal indulgence in
+raki or spirits does not always provoke that mellowness which follows
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span>a good dinner and a glass of port. On the contrary, you become
+argumentative and convinced of the truth of your side of the question,
+and you do not hesitate to tell the other man that he is more or less
+of a fool. So it came to pass in Bajice that those of Cetinje argued
+that they were the better men, a statement which did not conduce to
+good fellowship&mdash;in fact, a Voivoda who was present, a native of
+Bajice, had to interfere to prevent the only true solution of the
+question in point. He was an aged man, and the men of Cetinje
+proceeded home without proving their statement. One man, however,
+stayed behind to continue the argument, and this naturally enraged the
+Voivoda. He ordered him to be beaten. Nothing loath, the worthy
+villagers fell upon him, and belaboured him with such fervour that he
+soon fell insensible to the ground. Before he lost consciousness, he
+was heard to utter a threat to the effect that his assailants would be
+sorry for it.</p>
+
+<p>Then he was carried to the hospital in Cetinje and lay six weeks
+recovering.</p>
+
+<p>When he was well again, his thoughts were occupied with revenge, and
+in this scheme he was greatly assisted by his relations.</p>
+
+<p>"Thou wilt be killed, of course," they said, "but thine and our honour
+must be avenged. Who are the men of Bajice to beat one of us and go
+unpunished?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>He was of the same opinion, and cast about for a suitable victim. Now
+the son of the aged Voivoda who had ordered the assault lived in
+Cetinje. He was the captain of the Royal Body Guard, the hero of many
+a fight with the Turks, and famed throughout the land. We knew his
+son, who stands about six feet four inches, and he is said to have
+been small compared to what his father was.</p>
+
+<p>"He shall be the victim," said the man of Cetinje, and his relations
+applauded the choice.</p>
+
+<p>One morning early the captain emerged from a shop, and from a distance
+of a few feet, the avenger of his honour fired at him from behind,
+hitting him in the neck. The captain fell forward on his face, saying,
+"Who has shot me?" and turning saw the assassin running up the street.
+With his last strength he drew his revolver, and resting his elbow on
+the ground, he fired once; the man reeled but continued his headlong
+flight: again the wounded officer fired, and as he sank forward dying,
+he had the satisfaction of seeing the fugitive throw up his hands and
+fall dead, shot through the heart. The last shot was fired at a
+distance of fifty yards.</p>
+
+<p>"As you can imagine," concluded our informant, "the news of this
+affray nearly caused a pitched battle between Bajice and Cetinje,
+which was only prevented by the energetic action of the Prince. He
+called the two clans together before his palace <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span>and with marvellous
+judgment picked out the ring-leaders and imprisoned them, and the rest
+were sent home with such a warning of what would come if he heard any
+more about it, that all interest was lost in the dispute. Men do not
+like to face our Prince when he is angered, and his constant presence
+in Cetinje is a great drawback to the vendetta. Now I must leave you,
+and to-morrow you shall visit the hospital."</p>
+
+<p>We strolled to the market-place, which was full of peasants and their
+produce. It is not nearly such a scene of life as is met with
+elsewhere. The Albanian element is almost totally absent, and that
+alone takes fifty per cent. of the wildness off. Neither are rifles
+brought to Cetinje, so that it presents a far more peaceable aspect.
+Still it is crowded, the guslars do a literally roaring trade, and
+there are always a sprinkling of men from the Vasovi&#263; and other
+outlying clans to liven up the scene.</p>
+
+<p>Here old friends and comrades in arms meet, called to the capital as
+witnesses, or principals, in a law case, or to draw their salaries as
+small officials of their districts. The conversation on these
+occasions is always the same, and if heard often, becomes monotonous.
+The unvarying formula of greeting is quaint and terse, but it loses
+much of its impressive character by translation. One word in
+explanation. The Montenegrins cannot utter the simplest remark
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span>without invoking the Almighty in some form or another. The use of the
+word "Bog," or "God," is incessant.</p>
+
+<p>Picture an aged man, whose grey stubble fringes a weather-beaten and
+furrowed face with a grizzled moustache. He is smoking a grimy
+tchibouque in a contemplative fashion, as he stands on the outskirts
+of the chattering throng. To him approaches a second stalwart, lean
+man about the same age and appearance. He is also smoking a long
+tchibouque; it is a custom which the elder inhabitants have adopted
+from the Turks.</p>
+
+<p>"May God protect thee," says the new-comer gravely, as though he had
+never given vent to such a momentous utterance before.</p>
+
+<p>"May God give thee good fortune," answers the other, with equal
+solemnity; and removing their pipes, they clasp hands and fervently
+kiss each other. Then the smoking is resumed, and between the puffs
+the following conversation ensues.</p>
+
+<p>"How art thou?" says the new-comer, gazing with affection at his old
+comrade.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, thank God," replies the other.</p>
+
+<p>"Thank God."</p>
+
+<p>"And how art thou?"</p>
+
+<p>"Well, thank God."</p>
+
+<p>"Thank God."</p>
+
+<p>Now it is the new-comer's turn for the Montenegrin catechism.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The questions already asked and answered are only the prelude, so to
+speak, before they settle down to serious business. "Kako ste?" ("How
+art thou?") is simply as meaningless as "How do you do"; in fact, a
+mere matter of form.</p>
+
+<p>"Art thou well?" says the questioner, referring to the other's state
+of health, who replies&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"I am well, by God, thank God."</p>
+
+<p>"Thank God," says the questioner, breathing more freely, and
+continuing.</p>
+
+<p>"How is thy wife?" "How are thy children?" "Thy grandchildren?" "Thy
+brother?" "Thy sister?" To all of which a deep-toned "Well, thank
+God," is given.</p>
+
+<p>Having satisfied himself that the whole family is in reasonable
+health, and quite certain that he has omitted no important relation,
+the catechiser proceeds to inquire as to the other's worldly
+possessions.</p>
+
+<p>"How are thy crops?"</p>
+
+<p>"God will give me a good harvest."</p>
+
+<p>"How are thy horses?" "Thy sheep?" "Thy goats?" "Thy cows?" "Thy
+pigs?" "Thy bees?"</p>
+
+<p>It must be clearly understood, to appreciate the humour of the scene,
+that the formula has been shortened to avoid vain repetition. Every
+question is asked in full, and answered with a pious "Dobro, hfala
+Bogu" ("Well, thank God"). Not a word is omitted. The concluding
+question is put, after a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span>few moments' thought that really no item has
+been left out, and this covers any lapse of memory.</p>
+
+<p>"And, in short, How art thou?"</p>
+
+<p>"Dobro, hfala Bogu" ("Well, thank God").</p>
+
+<p>"Hfala Bogu" ("Thank God").</p>
+
+<p>Now it is the other's turn, and precisely the same questions are
+asked, varied perhaps with an inquiry as to the state of health of the
+district "standard bearer" or "mayor." Then a few minutes' general
+conversation are indulged in as to the direct cause of the other's
+visit to Cetinje, and each satisfied that he has gained every particle
+of information, they clasp hands, kiss, and part with a measured
+"S'Bogom," signifying that they commend each other to the Almighty's
+keeping.</p>
+
+<p>The simplest and most inoffensive query is answered thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Hast thou any milk?" says the thirsty wayfarer, pausing at a hut.</p>
+
+<p>"I have none, by God," and the stranger proceeds wearily on his way.</p>
+
+<p>Our visit to the hospital was decidedly interesting. The senior doctor
+of Montenegro was an ex-Austrian military surgeon. He was very
+pressing in his invitation, so one day we wended our steps thither at
+eleven o'clock. We were met by a smart-looking nurse, who told us that
+the doctor was at present engaged in an operation, and would be with
+us <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span>shortly. He soon appeared, and, apologising for the simplicity of
+the building, started taking us round. First he led us into the
+accident-room, where the injured are first treated. There were the
+usual operating-tables and cases of instruments. "We treat wounds that
+are suppurating here," he said pleasantly. "Our real operating-room is
+in the other house, and is much better fitted up. This being the only
+hospital in the country I have all the operations to perform,
+generally one a day."</p>
+
+<p>Then we went into the R&ouml;ntgen room. The X rays, the doctor informed
+us, was very useful in locating bullets. In the men's ward a young man
+was pointed out to us who had been shot twice during a kolo dance in
+the arm and leg.</p>
+
+<p>"The Montenegrins," said the doctor, "are very careless when they fire
+their revolvers during a dance, and I get a good many patients that
+way." Afterwards we visited some other wards, and we were finally
+taken to the other operating-room, or theatre. But it was only a
+reproduction of the other on a large scale. "The Prince is very
+generous," said the doctor, "and gives me a free hand. We have every
+modern appliance, and I have trained my assistants to such an extent
+that I can absolutely rely on them. The hospital costs a lot of money,
+for we only charge a krone (about a franc) a day, and then they
+petition that they cannot pay."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After inscribing our names in a book we went back to our midday meal.</p>
+
+<p>The hospital, from a medical and surgical standpoint, is extremely up
+to date, and at its head is a doctor who may be counted as one of the
+finest operators in Europe; at his own request his name has not been
+mentioned. It is another instance of Prince Nicolas' benevolence to
+his people, another of the progressive movements which he is ever
+introducing into the country. Every district has a doctor, all of whom
+are under the head doctor at Cetinje, who directs all treatment in the
+case of an epidemic. Serious cases are sent to Cetinje and treated
+there, but these are largely surgical. The fame of the doctor at
+Cetinje has reached the furthermost village; men who have suffered for
+years now troop joyfully to the capital, and the number of operations
+increases yearly.</p>
+
+<p>May the hospital and its capable chief flourish and continue to bring
+the blessings of science to the worthy sons of the Black Mountain!</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI</h2>
+
+<h3>The Law Court in Cetinje&mdash;The Prince as patriarch&mdash;A typical
+lawsuit&mdash;Pleasant hours with murderers&mdash;Our hostel&mdash;A Babel of
+tongues&mdash;Our sojourn draws to a close&mdash;The farewell cup of coffee and
+apostrophe.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The Law Court in Cetinje is distinctly quaint. All civil cases are
+conducted in public, and the method of procedure is simplicity
+itself.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> Firstly there are no lawyers and no costs, the rival
+parties conducting their case in person&mdash;that is to say, they are
+present, and are examined and cross-examined by the judge and his six
+assistants. All the preliminaries have been committed to writing and
+are read out by the clerk of the court, the only other official
+present. In a small inclosure sit the plaintiff and defendant and
+their witnesses; behind a railing, stand and sit the audience of
+admiring friends and relations.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> This is all altered now since the end of 1902, when a new
+code and system was introduced, more up to date.</p></div>
+
+<p>The room is long and low. At the further end on a raised dais sits the
+judge, behind whom is a life<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span>size reproduction of the Prince's
+photograph. At a horseshoe-shaped table sit the other judges, three on
+each side, and in the middle is another table holding the Bible,
+crucifix, and two candles. The candles are lit when a witness takes
+the oath.</p>
+
+<p>In the intervening space is a large and comfortable easy-chair, or
+perhaps it would be more correct and dignified to call it a throne. It
+is occupied by Prince Nicolas whenever he comes in, as he often does,
+for an hour or so, for he takes a keen interest in the law cases of
+his subjects. When he is present the proceedings are in no way
+altered, but the Prince himself puts now and then a pertinent question
+to the witnesses. Furthermore, it is here that the Prince every
+Saturday, when he is in residence in Cetinje, holds public audience
+and receives petitions and complaints from his lowliest subjects.
+Every petition must be committed to writing, and in the appointed
+order each man or woman steps forward while the document is read aloud
+by the clerk. The Prince puts a question or two to the petitioner and
+then gives his answer to the request, which is duly noted, and the
+next person called.</p>
+
+<p>It is all so simple and quick that it is hard to realise the
+importance of this commendable institution. In the olden days the
+Prince dispensed justice and favours, seated under the shade of an
+enormous tree, which has now, however, been destroyed. But <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span>in the
+height of summer, a shady spot in the open air is still found.</p>
+
+<p>We listened to one case, that of a woman who had amassed a large sum
+of money&mdash;for Montenegro&mdash;by fetching water from a distance at so much
+a gallon. Cetinje is almost waterless in summer, and water-carriers
+can earn small fortunes, particularly if equipped with a donkey or
+two, as was this woman. Having saved a few hundred guldens, she
+proceeded to lend it to needy friends&mdash;people are foolish in this
+respect, even in Montenegro. It would have been all right if she had
+not neglected the simple precaution of insisting on an I.O.U. for each
+loan. Her money gone, she not unnaturally asked that some of it should
+be returned, for she had fallen on evil days. But all knowledge of
+such loans was denied by the ungrateful borrowers.</p>
+
+<p>It was a knotty point to decide. Should the judges believe the woman's
+word, or the emphatic denials of the debtors that they had ever
+received a kreutzer? The seven looked hopelessly at each other, and
+then wisely retired to the seclusion of a private room, awaiting
+divine inspiration.</p>
+
+<p>As of yore, the little prison, or rather house of detention, had a
+great attraction for us. Many afternoons we wended our way thither to
+while away an hour in the genial company of the prisoners and their
+warders. The handsome young director of prisons usually accompanied
+us, ostensibly but to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span>bear us company, though doubtless he was acting
+on higher orders, and had instructions to see that our eccentricities
+did not go too far.</p>
+
+<p>We organised sports on some occasions, chiefly consisting of putting
+the weight, <i>i.e.</i> a large stone, but they <i>would</i> swindle and
+invariably overstepped the limit line, declaring that they hadn't
+afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>But it was their stories that we loved to listen to. They were mostly
+harmless quarrellers, for we shunned the debased thieving criminal; a
+man who could steal was vigorously excluded from our circle. There was
+one exception, however, and he was a Hungarian, a deserter from his
+regiment. That in itself is not a punishable crime, but he had eased
+the regimental cash-box of a thousand kronen at the time of his
+departure, and was awaiting the result of investigations. He
+maintained that the money was his, and was quite indignant when it was
+hinted that he must have stolen it; but unluckily he destroyed any
+belief in his honesty by invariably contradicting himself as to how he
+came by it. But he was such a good-natured, pleasant-spoken man that
+we let him sit by our side and prevaricate, till we bade him cease
+from further blackening his soul.</p>
+
+<p>We gleaned a lot more information from the young director of the
+prison, and amongst it the method of recapturing escaped prisoners. In
+the central prison at Podgorica, if a prisoner escapes, the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span>rest of
+the criminals are sent out to catch him. Very often they find him, and
+never has a prisoner abused this privilege, all punctually returning
+by a given date.</p>
+
+<p>We stayed at Reinwein's inn, an unpretentious building, both as
+regards the exterior and interior, but as Reinwein himself is a
+Viennese, and has been for twelve years in the service of the Prince,
+acting often as cook, it is quite safe to say that at his house the
+best cooking in the whole of Montenegro is to be found. Coming into
+the country this would not be so noticeable, but after months in other
+Montenegrin towns the cooking is most appreciable. We spent very happy
+evenings in his bare little dining-room, with a decidedly cosmopolitan
+gathering. The most noticeable feature was the number of languages in
+use. Even Dalmatia, Bosnia, and the Hercegovina, where a
+three-languaged man is the rule, paled into insignificance. There was
+a Turkish official staying at Reinwein's, transacting business for his
+Government, and every evening men came to see him; that man was to be
+heard&mdash;he was a Neapolitan by birth&mdash;conversing fluently in Turkish,
+Albanian, Serb, Greek, Italian, and French, alternately. One evening I
+was trying to follow the conversation, which began in Italian, then he
+wandered off into other tongues, explaining, evidently, a letter
+written in Turkish. I got interested and went over to his table, and,
+afterwards, he told me which languages he had been using. Besides this
+little list, Reinwein spoke <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span>Russian with another man, German largely
+with us, and P. and I passed remarks to each other in English, which
+was the only unknown language. One evening two Hungarian tourists
+arrived, and then we fled from that Babel, fearing for our reason.</p>
+
+<p>An affable old Turk, seedy in appearance, but extremely entertaining,
+owned to six languages, not counting others of which he had only a
+smattering. Serb he didn't count as he said he could only talk on easy
+subjects in that tongue. It is very humiliating, that sort of thing,
+it is liable to lower the opinion of one's own intelligence. We kept
+late hours, too, at Reinwein's, we couldn't help it.</p>
+
+<p>But all good things must come to an end, and at last the day of our
+departure arrived. Cetinje itself was quite a different place to us
+than when we knew it formerly. Representative of the land in a certain
+sense it rightly is, but then a fairly full knowledge of the country
+must be acquired first to understand in what respects it represents
+the life and customs of the people beyond. To the stranger who extends
+his visit for only a week, it is sure to give manifold false
+impressions, for though Montenegro is quiet and peaceable enough, the
+appearance of Cetinje is rather too assuring. For here there is little
+trace of vendetta and quarrelling, which, however, under the powerful
+hand of the present Prince Nicolas, are surely dying out through all
+the land. When the fact <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span>is taken into consideration that the
+Montenegro of forty years ago was a rough and dangerous country,
+inhabited by a people who knew nothing of the outside world, and lived
+simply for themselves in their own land, it will be seen what
+miraculous progress has been made in the path of civilisation during
+the present reign. Peace and order have been established to a
+wonderful degree, and the State reorganised and set on a surer basis.
+With a powerful hand and not too much external help the Prince has
+carried through his reforms, and, like David in his final exhortation
+to Solomon, leaves the way ready for still greater progress to be made
+in the future. And the comparison holds good in more respects than
+one.</p>
+
+<p>We drank our last little cup of coffee, oddly enough, in the
+historical monastery of Ivan Beg in the company of the Vladika, to
+whom we were paying our farewell respects, and half an hour later were
+whirling down to Bajice under the shadow of the mighty Lov&#263;en.</p>
+
+<p>As the grand Bocche di Cattaro again burst on our view and the first
+black and yellow sign-post of Austria was passed, we turned again for
+a last look at those seemingly forbidding and inhospitable mountains;
+but only forbidding and inhospitable to the enemy of the brave little
+race beyond. To the stranger, fresh from the comforts and improvements
+of civilisation, it is a revelation of how men live, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span>knowing nothing
+of the luxuries of the outer world, and keep themselves untarnished in
+honour; honest and God-fearing where a man is judged by his deeds and
+not by his words. Where men do not steal or lie, and where the humble
+peasant looks his Prince in the face and says&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Lord, I am a man like thyself."</p>
+
+<p>They have their faults and failings, many of their customs seem
+barbaric to our eyes: but may they long be preserved from the evils of
+civilisation!</p>
+
+<p>Later, as the ship ploughed her way through the waves, and the
+mountains of Crnagora became ever more and more faint and indistinct,
+we thought of Tennyson's words:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"They rose to where their sov'ran eagle sails,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They kept their faith, their freedom, on the height,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Chaste, frugal, savage, armed by day and night<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Against the Turk; whose inroad nowhere scales<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Their headlong passes, but his footstep fails,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And red with blood the Crescent reels from fight<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Before their dauntless hundreds in prone flight<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">By thousands down the crags and through the vales.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+<hr class="hr1" />
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">O smallest among peoples! rough rock-throne<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of Freedom! warriors beating back the swarm<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of Turkish Isl&acirc;m for five hundred years,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Great Crnagora! never since thine own<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Black ridges drew the cloud and broke the storm<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Has breathed a race of mightier mountaineers."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>THE END</h3>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
+
+
+<div class="index">
+<ul class="IX"><li>Alarm,      <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>  </li>
+<li>Albanian costume,<a href="#Page_139">139</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>custom house,<a href="#Page_133">133</a>  </li>
+<li>mass,<a href="#Page_231">231</a>  </li></ul></li>
+<li>Andrijevica,<a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>  </li>
+<li>Antivari,      <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>  </li>
+<li>Army,      <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>  </li>
+<li>Austria,      <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Babel,      <a href="#Page_295">295</a>  </li>
+<li>Bajice,      <a href="#Page_281">281</a>  </li>
+<li>Bal&#353;i&#263;,      <a href="#Page_17">17</a>  </li>
+<li>Band of Good Hope,      <a href="#Page_155">155</a>  </li>
+<li>Barracks,      <a href="#Page_46">46</a>  </li>
+<li>Bella Vista,      <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>  </li>
+<li>Billard,      <a href="#Page_43">43</a>  </li>
+<li>Bogeti&#263;,      <a href="#Page_250">250</a>  </li>
+<li>Bojana,      <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>  </li>
+<li>Brda,      <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>  </li>
+<li>Budua,      <a href="#Page_22">22</a>  </li>
+<li>Business methods,      <a href="#Page_77">77</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Cardplaying,      <a href="#Page_169">169</a>  </li>
+<li>Carina,      <a href="#Page_206">206</a>  </li>
+<li>Catherine II.,      <a href="#Page_21">21</a>  </li>
+<li>Cattaro,      <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Bocche di, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>  </li></ul></li>
+<li>Caxton,      <a href="#Page_19">19</a>  </li>
+<li>Cetinje,      <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>  </li>
+<li>Church,      <a href="#Page_13">13</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>militant, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>  </li></ul></li>
+<li>Conversation,      <a href="#Page_285">285</a>  </li>
+<li>Crimean War,      <a href="#Page_22">22</a>  </li>
+<li>Crnagora,      <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>  </li>
+<li>Crna Zemlja,      <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>  </li>
+<li>Curzola,      <a href="#Page_33">33</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Daibabe,      <a href="#Page_89">89</a>  </li>
+<li>Danilo, Crown Prince,      <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>  </li>
+<li>Danilo II.,      <a href="#Page_22">22</a>  </li>
+<li>Danilovgrad,      <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>  </li>
+<li>Death dirge,      <a href="#Page_85">85</a>  </li>
+<li>Dino&#353;,      <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>  </li>
+<li>Dukla,      <a href="#Page_93">93</a>  </li>
+<li>Dulcigno (Ulcinj),      <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Easter,      <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>  </li>
+<li>Edward VII.,      <a href="#Page_166">166</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Fatalism,      <a href="#Page_228">228</a>  </li>
+<li>Fishing,      <a href="#Page_105">105</a>  </li>
+<li>Food,      <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>  </li>
+<li>Fundina,      <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Gambling,      <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>  </li>
+<li>Gjoli&#263;,      <a href="#Page_208">208</a>  </li>
+<li>Grahovo,      <a href="#Page_23">23</a>  </li>
+<li>Gravosa,      <a href="#Page_33">33</a>  </li>
+<li>Gugga,      <a href="#Page_265">265</a>  </li>
+<li>Gusinje,      <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>  </li>
+<li>Guslar,      <a href="#Page_39">39</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Heraclius,      <a href="#Page_16">16</a>  </li>
+<li>Hildebrand,      <a href="#Page_16">16</a>  </li>
+<li>Hospital,      <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>  </li>
+<li>Hospitality,      <a href="#Page_60">60</a>  </li>
+<li>Hotti,      <a href="#Page_227">227</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Imperfect valleys,      <a href="#Page_2">2</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Karst,      <a href="#Page_2">2</a>  </li>
+<li>Katunska,      <a href="#Page_2">2</a>  </li>
+<li>Ke&#263;o,      <a href="#Page_233">233</a>  </li>
+<li>Kiuprili Pasha,      <a href="#Page_20">20</a>  </li>
+<li>Klementi,      <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>  </li>
+<li>Kohl,      <a href="#Page_5">5</a>  </li>
+<li>Kola&#353;in,      <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>  </li>
+<li>Kolo,      <a href="#Page_157">157</a>  </li>
+<li>Kom, Ku&#263;ki,      <a href="#Page_211">211</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Vasojevi&#263;ki, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>  </li></ul></li>
+<li>Konjuhe,      <a href="#Page_205">205</a>  </li>
+<li>Korito,      <a href="#Page_222">222</a>  </li>
+<li>Kostice,      <a href="#Page_223">223</a>  </li>
+<li>Krivo&#353;ejans,      <a href="#Page_23">23</a>  </li>
+<li>Kru&#353;evac,      <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>  </li>
+<li>Ku&#263;,      <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Laki&#263; Voivodi&#263;,      <a href="#Page_183">183</a>  </li>
+<li>Law,      <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>  </li>
+<li>Lesina (Hvar),      <a href="#Page_33">33</a>  </li>
+<li>Lijeva Rijeka,      <a href="#Page_150">150</a>  </li>
+<li>Lim,      <a href="#Page_183">183</a>  </li>
+<li>Ljubotin,      <a href="#Page_143">143</a>  </li>
+<li>Lov&#263;en,      <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>  </li>
+<li>Lunatic Asylum,      <a href="#Page_69">69</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Mala,      <a href="#Page_148">148</a>  </li>
+<li>Market,      <a href="#Page_73">73</a>  </li>
+<li>Marko Ivankovi&#263;,      <a href="#Page_118">118</a>  </li>
+<li>Martinovi&#263;,      <a href="#Page_154">154</a>  </li>
+<li>Medun,      <a href="#Page_83">83</a>  </li>
+<li>Memorial stones,      <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>  </li>
+<li>Michael Do&#382;i&#263;,      <a href="#Page_164">164</a>  </li>
+<li>Militia,      <a href="#Page_171">171</a>  </li>
+<li>Mirko (father to the reigning Prince),      <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>  </li>
+<li>Mokra,      <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>  </li>
+<li>Mora&#269;a,      <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>monastery, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>  </li></ul></li>
+<li>Morina,      <a href="#Page_198">198</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Nicolas, Prince,      <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>  </li>
+<li>Nik&#353;i&#263;,      <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>  </li>
+<li>Njegu&#353;i,      <a href="#Page_38">38</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Obod,      <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>  </li>
+<li>Ostrog,      <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Pannonia,      <a href="#Page_32">32</a>  </li>
+<li>Peru&#353;ica,      <a href="#Page_204">204</a>  </li>
+<li>Peter, St.,      <a href="#Page_21">21</a>  </li>
+<li>Peter II.,      <a href="#Page_21">21</a>  </li>
+<li>Petri,      <a href="#Page_265">265</a>  </li>
+<li>Petrovi&#263;,      <a href="#Page_20">20</a>  </li>
+<li>Pilgrims,      <a href="#Page_251">251</a>  </li>
+<li>Plavnica,      <a href="#Page_110">110</a>  </li>
+<li>Podgorica,      <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>  </li>
+<li>Pola,      <a href="#Page_32">32</a>  </li>
+<li>Popovi&#263;, Simeon,      <a href="#Page_89">89</a>  </li>
+<li>Prison,      <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>  </li>
+<li>Procletia,      <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>  </li>
+<li>Prstan,      <a href="#Page_113">113</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Quagmires,      <a href="#Page_152">152</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Radoni&#263;,      <a href="#Page_20">20</a>  </li>
+<li>Ragusa,      <a href="#Page_33">33</a>  </li>
+<li>Raskrsnica,      <a href="#Page_175">175</a>  </li>
+<li>Reinwein,      <a href="#Page_294">294</a>  </li>
+<li>Revolvers,      <a href="#Page_37">37</a>  </li>
+<li>Rijeka,      <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>  </li>
+<li>Rikavac,      <a href="#Page_218">218</a>  </li>
+<li>Risano,      <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>  </li>
+<li>Roads,      <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>  </li>
+<li>Roman Catholics,      <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>  </li>
+<li>Rumija, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Samuel, Czar,      <a href="#Page_16">16</a>  </li>
+<li>Sandjak of Novipazar,      <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>  </li>
+<li>Scutari,      <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>  </li>
+<li>Shooting,      <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>,<a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>  </li>
+<li>Skenderbeg,      <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>  </li>
+<li>Sokol Ba&#269;o,      <a href="#Page_100">100</a>  </li>
+<li>Spalato,      <a href="#Page_32">32</a>  </li>
+<li>Spizza,      <a href="#Page_22">22</a>  </li>
+<li>Spu&#382;,      <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>  </li>
+<li>Stature,      <a href="#Page_6">6</a>  </li>
+<li>Stefan Crnoievi&#263;,      <a href="#Page_17">17</a>  </li>
+<li>Stefan Du&#382;an,      <a href="#Page_16">16</a>  </li>
+<li>Stefan Mali,      <a href="#Page_21">21</a>  </li>
+<li>Stefan Nemanja,      <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>  </li>
+<li>Sutorman Pass,      <a href="#Page_112">112</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Tara,      <a href="#Page_152">152</a>  </li>
+<li>Terpetlis,      <a href="#Page_205">205</a>  </li>
+<li>Teuta,      <a href="#Page_15">15</a>  </li>
+<li>Theatre,      <a href="#Page_46">46</a>  </li>
+<li>Tobacco,      <a href="#Page_105">105</a>  </li>
+<li>Topolica,      <a href="#Page_111">111</a>  </li>
+<li>Trieste,      <a href="#Page_31">31</a>  </li>
+<li>Tusi,      <a href="#Page_234">234</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Uiko, Achmet,      <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Vaccination,      <a href="#Page_129">129</a>  </li>
+<li>Velika,      <a href="#Page_195">195</a>  </li>
+<li>Vendetta,      <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>  , <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>  </li>
+<li>Venice,      <a href="#Page_19">19</a>  </li>
+<li>Virpazar,      <a href="#Page_110">110</a>  </li>
+<li>Vizier Bridge,      <a href="#Page_62">62</a>  </li>
+<li>Vladika,      <a href="#Page_43">43</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Mitrofanban, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>  </li></ul></li>
+<li>Voivoda Marko,      <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>of the Zeta, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>  </li></ul></li>
+<li>Vranjina,      <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>  </li>
+<li>Vu&#269;ipotok,      <a href="#Page_213">213</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Wake, Montenegrin,      <a href="#Page_281">281</a>  </li>
+<li>Women,      <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>  </li>
+<li>Wurmbrand,      <a href="#Page_31">31</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Yussuf Mu&#269;i&#263;,      <a href="#Page_81">81</a>  </li>
+</ul><ul class="IX">
+<li>Zabljak,      <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>  </li>
+<li>Zara,      <a href="#Page_32">32</a>  </li>
+<li>Zatrijeba&#263;,      <a href="#Page_223">223</a>  </li>
+<li>Zem,      <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>  </li>
+<li>Zeta,      <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>  </li></ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS<br />
+PUBLISHED BY METHUEN<br />
+AND COMPANY: LONDON<br />
+36 ESSEX STREET<br />
+W.C.<br />
+</h2>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_1" id="Page_1_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+
+
+
+
+<table summary="Contents_1">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="tocpg">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td >&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td >GENERAL LITERATURE,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_2">2-20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >ANTIQUARY'S BOOKS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_20">20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >BEGINNER'S BOOKS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_20">20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >BUSINESS BOOKS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_20">20</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >BYZANTINE TEXTS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >CHURCHMAN'S BIBLE,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >CHURCHMAN'S LIBRARY,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_21">21</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >CLASSICAL TRANSLATIONS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >COMMERCIAL SERIES,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >CONNOISSEUR'S LIBRARY,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >LIBRARY OF DEVOTION,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >ILLUSTRATED POCKET LIBRARY OF PLAIN AND COLOURED BOOKS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >JUNIOR EXAMINATION SERIES,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >METHUEN'S JUNIOR SCHOOL-BOOKS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >LEADERS OF RELIGION,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >LITTLE BLUE BOOKS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >LITTLE BOOKS ON ART,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >LITTLE GALLERIES,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >LITTLE GUIDES,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_27">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >LITTLE LIBRARY,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_27">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >METHUEN'S MINIATURE LIBRARY,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_28">28</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >OXFORD BIOGRAPHIES,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_28">28</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >SCHOOL EXAMINATION SERIES,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >SOCIAL QUESTIONS OF TO-DAY,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >HANDBOOKS OF THEOLOGY,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_30">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >METHUEN'S STANDARD LIBRARY,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_30">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >WESTMINSTER COMMENTARIES,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >FICTION,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_32">32-40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_39">39</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >BOOKS FOR BOYS AND GIRLS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_40">40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td >NOVELS OF ALEXANDRE DUMAS,</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1_40">40</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_2" id="Page_1_2">[2]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="A_CATALOGUE_OF_Messrs_Methuens_PUBLICATIONS" id="A_CATALOGUE_OF_Messrs_Methuens_PUBLICATIONS"></a>A CATALOGUE OF <span class="smcap">Messrs. Methuen's</span> PUBLICATIONS</h2>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Colonial Editions are published of all Messrs. <span class="smcap">Methuen's</span>
+Novels issued at a price above <i>2s. 6d.</i>, and similar editions are
+published of some works of General Literature. These are marked in the
+Catalogue. Colonial editions are only for circulation in the British
+Colonies and India.</p>
+
+<p>An asterisk denotes that a book is in the Press.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Part I.&mdash;General Literature</span></h3>
+
+<p><b>Abbot (Jacob)</b>. See Little Blue Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Acatos (M.J.)</b>. Modern Language Master at King Edward School,
+Birmingham. See Junior School Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Adams (Frank)</b>. JACK SPRATT. With 24 Coloured Pictures. <i>Super Royal
+16mo. 2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Adeney (W.F.)</b>, M.A. See Bennett and Adeney.</p>
+
+<p><b>&AElig;schylus</b>. See Classical Translations.</p>
+
+<p><b>&AElig;sop</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ainsworth (W. Harrison)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>*Alderson (J.P.)</b> MR. ASQUITH. With Portraits and Illustrations.
+<i>Demy 8vo. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Alexander (William)</b>, D.D. Archbishop of Armagh. THOUGHTS AND
+COUNSELS OF MANY YEARS. Selected by J.H. <span class="smcap">Burn</span>, B.D. <i>Demy
+16mo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Alken (Henry)</b>. THE NATIONAL SPORTS OF GREAT BRITAIN. With
+descriptions in English and French. With 51 Coloured Plates. <i>Royal
+Folio. Five Guineas net.</i> See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Allen (Jessie)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Allen (J. Romilly)</b>, F.S.A. See Antiquary's Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Almack (E.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Amherst (Lady)</b>. A SKETCH OF EGYPTIAN HISTORY FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES
+TO THE PRESENT DAY. With many illustrations, some of which are in
+Colour. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Anderson (F.M.)</b>. THE STORY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE FOR CHILDREN. With
+many Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Andrewes (Bishop)</b>. PRECES PRIVATAE. Edited, with Notes, by F.E.
+<span class="smcap">Brightman</span>, M.A., of Pusey House, Oxford. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Aristophanes</b>. THE FROGS. Translated into English by E.W.
+<span class="smcap">Huntingford</span>, M.A., Professor of Classics in Trinity College,
+Toronto. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Aristotle</b>. THE NICOMACHEAN ETHICS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by <span class="smcap">John Burnett</span>, M.A., Professor of Greek at St.
+Andrews. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Ashton (R.)</b>. See Little Blue Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Atkins (H.G.)</b>. See Oxford Biographies.</p>
+
+<p><b>Atkinson (C.M.)</b>. JEREMY BENTHAM. <i>Demy 8vo. 5s. net.</i> A biography of
+this great thinker, and an estimate of his work and influence.</p>
+
+<p><b>Atkinson (T.D.)</b>. A SHORT HISTORY OF ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. With over
+200 Illustrations by the Author and others. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Aurelius (Marcus)</b>. See Methuen's University Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Austen (Jane)</b>. See Little Library and Methuen's University Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Aves (Ernest)</b>. See Books on Business.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bacon (Francis)</b>. See Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Baden-Powell (R.S.S.)</b>, Major-General. THE DOWNFALL OF PREMPEH. A
+Diary of Life in Ashanti, 1895. With 21 Illustrations and a Map.
+<i>Third Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_3" id="Page_1_3">[3]</a></span><br />
+THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896. With nearly 100 Illustrations. <i>Fourth
+and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>;<br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Baker (W.G.)</b> M.A. See Junior Examination Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Baker (Julian L.)</b> F.I.C., F.C.S. See Books on Business.</p>
+
+<p><b>Balfour (Graham)</b>. THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. <i>Second
+Edition. Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 25s. net.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bally (S.E.)</b> See Commercial Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Banks (Elizabeth L.)</b>. THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A 'NEWSPAPER
+GIRL.' With a Portrait of the Author and her Dog.
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Barham (R.H.)</b> See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Baring-Gould (S.)</b> Author of 'Mehalah,' etc. THE LIFE OF NAPOLEON
+BONAPARTE. With over 450 Illustrations in the Text, and 12
+Photogravure Plates. <i>Gill top, Large quarto. 36s.<br />
+</i>THE TRAGEDY OF THE C&AElig;SARS. With numerous Illustrations from Busts,
+Gems, Cameos, etc. <i>Fifth Edition. Royal 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.<br />
+</i>A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations and Initial Letters
+by <span class="smcap">Arthur J. Gaskin</span>. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram,
+6s.<br />
+</i>A BOOK OF BRITTANY. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>Uniform in scope and size with Mr. Baring-Gould's well-known books on
+Devon, Cornwall, and Dartmoor.<br />
+OLD ENGLISH FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations by <span class="smcap">F.D.
+Bedford</span>. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram, 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+THE VICAR OF MORWENSTOW: A Biography. A new and Revised Edition. With
+a Portrait. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.<br />
+</i>A completely new edition of the well-known biography of R.S. Hawker.<br />
+DARTMOOR: A Descriptive and Historical Sketch. With Plans and numerous
+Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>THE BOOK OF THE WEST. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Two volumes.</i> Vol.
+<span class="smcap">i</span>, Devon. <i>Second Edition.</i> Vol. <span class="smcap">ii</span>. Cornwall
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s. each.<br />
+</i>A BOOK OF NORTH WALES. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>This book is uniform with Mr. Baring-Gould's books on Devon, Dartmoor,
+and Brittany.<br />
+*A BOOK OF SOUTH WALES. With many Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A BOOK OF GHOSTS. With 8 Illustrations by D. Murray Smith. <i>Second
+Edition.</i> <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+OLD COUNTRY LIFE. With 67 Illustrations. <i>Fifth Edition. Large Crown
+8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>*AN OLD ENGLISH HOME. With numerous Plans and Illustrations. <i>Cr.
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net.<br />
+</i>*YORKSHIRE ODDITIES AND STRANGE EVENTS. <i>Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo.
+2s. 6d. net.<br />
+</i>*STRANGE SURVIVALS AND SUPERSTITIONS. <i>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s.
+6d. net.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+A GARLAND OF COUNTRY SONG: English Folk Songs with their Traditional
+Melodies. Collected and arranged by <span class="smcap">S. Baring-Gould</span> and
+<span class="smcap">H.F. Sheppard</span>. <i>Demy 4to. 6s.<br />
+</i>SONGS OF THE WEST: Traditional Ballads and Songs of the West of
+England, with their Melodies. Collected by <span class="smcap">S. Baring-Gould</span>
+and <span class="smcap">H.F. Shepard, M.A.</span> In 4 Parts. <i>Parts I., II., III., 2s.
+6d. each. Part IV., 4s. In One Volume, French Morocco, 10s. net.;
+Roan, 15s.<br />
+</i>See also The Little Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Barker (Aldred F.)</b>. Author of 'Pattern Analysis,' etc. See Textbooks
+of Technology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Barnes (W.E.)</b>, D.D., Hulsaean Professor of Divinity at Cambridge.
+See Churchman's Bible.</p>
+
+<p><b>Barnett (Mrs. P.A.)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Baron (R.R.N.)</b>, M.A. FRENCH PROSE COMPOSITION. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+Key, 3s. net.</i> See also Junior School Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Barron (H.M.)</b>, M.A., Wadham College, Oxford. TEXTS FOR SERMONS. With
+a Preface by Canon <span class="smcap">Scott Holland</span>. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bastable (C.F.)</b>, M.A., Professor of Economics at Trinity College,
+Dublin. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Batson (Mrs. Stephen)</b>. A BOOK OF THE COUNTRY AND THE GARDEN.
+Illustrated by <span class="smcap">F. Carruthers Gould</span> and <span class="smcap">A.C. Gould</span>.
+<i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.<br />
+</i>A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF GARDEN FLOWERS. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_4" id="Page_1_4">[4]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><b>*Batten (Loring W.)</b>. Ph.D., S.T.D., Rector of St. Mark's Church,
+New York; sometime Professor in the Philadelphia Divinity School. THE
+HEBREW PROPHET. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Beaman (A. Hulme)</b>. PONS ASINORUM; OR, A GUIDE TO BRIDGE. <i>Second
+Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Beard (W.S.)</b> See Junior Examination Series.<br />
+  EASY EXERCISES IN ARITHMETIC. Arranged by. <i>Cr. 8vo. Without Answers</i>,
+<i>1s.</i> With Answers, <i>1s. 3d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Beckford (Peter)</b>. THOUGHTS ON HUNTING. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Otho
+Paget</span>, and Illustrated by <span class="smcap">G.H. Jalland</span>. <i>Second and
+Cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Beckford (William)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Beeching (H.C.)</b>, M.A., Canon of Westminster. See Library of
+Devotion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Behmen (Jacob)</b>. THE SUPERSENSUAL LIFE. Edited by <span class="smcap">Bernard
+Holland</span>. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Belloc (Hilaire)</b>. PARIS. With Maps and Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bellot (H.H.L.)</b>, M.A. THE INNER AND MIDDLE TEMPLE. With numerous
+Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s. net.<br />
+</i>See also <b>L.A.A. Jones</b>.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bennet (W.H.), M.A</b>. A PRIMER OF THE BIBLE. <i>Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bennett (W.H.)</b> and <b>Adeney (W.F.)</b>. A BIBLICAL INTRODUCTION. <i>Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Benson (Archbishop)</b>. GOD'S BOARD: Communion Addresses. <i>Fcap, 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Benson (A.C.)</b>, M.A. See Oxford Biographies.</p>
+
+<p><b>Benson (R.M.)</b>. THE WAY OF HOLINESS: a Devotional Commentary on the
+119th Psalm. <i>Crown 8vo. 5s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bernard (E.R.)</b>, M.A., Canon of Salisbury. THE ENGLISH SUNDAY. <i>Fcap.
+8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bertouch (Baroness de)</b>. THE LIFE OF FATHER IGNATIUS, O.S.B., THE
+MONK OF LLANTHONY. With Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bethune-Baker (J.F.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge.
+See Handbooks of Theology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bidez (M.)</b>. See Byzantine Texts.</p>
+
+<p><b>Biggs (C.R.D.)</b>, D.D. See Churchman's Bible.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bindley (T. Herbert)</b>, B.D. THE OECUMENICAL DOCUMENTS OF THE FAITH.
+With Introductions and Notes. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s. </i>A historical account of the Creeds.</p>
+
+<p><b>Binyon (Laurence)</b>. THE DEATH OF ADAM, AND OTHER POEMS. <i>Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Birnstingl (Ethel)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Blair (Robert)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Blake (William)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library and Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Blaxland (B.)</b>, M.A. See Library of Devotion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bloom (T. Harvey)</b>, M.A. SHAKESPEARE'S GARDEN. With Illustrations.
+<i>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; leather, 4s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Blouet (Henri)</b>. See The Beginner's Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Boardman (T.H.)</b>. See Text Books of Technology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bodley (J.E.C.)</b>, Author of 'France.' THE CORONATION OF EDWARD VII.
+<i>Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i> By Command of the King.</p>
+
+<p><b>Body (George)</b>, D.D. THE SOUL'S PILGRIMAGE: Devotional Readings from
+his published and unpublished writings. Selected and arranged by
+<span class="smcap">J.H. Burn</span>, B.D. F.R.S.E. <i>Pott 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bona (Cardinal)</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Boon (F.C.)</b>, See Commercial Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Borrow (George)</b>, See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bos (J. Ritzema)</b>. AGRICULTURAL ZOOLOGY. Translated by <span class="smcap">J.R.
+Ainsworth Davis, M.A.</span> With an Introduction by <span class="smcap">Eleanor A.
+Ormerod</span>, F.E.S. With 153 Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. Third Edition. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Botting (C.G.)</b>, B.A. EASY GREEK EXERCISES. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i> See also
+Junior Examination Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Boulton (E.S.)</b>. GEOMETRY ON MODERN LINES. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bowden (E.M.)</b>. THE IMITATION OF BUDDHA: Being Quotations from
+Buddhist Literature for each Day in the Year. <i>Fourth Edition. Crown
+16mo. 2s. 6d.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_5" id="Page_1_5">[5]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Boyle (W.)</b>. CHRISTMAS AT THE ZOO. With Verses by <span class="smcap">W. Boyle</span>
+and 24 Coloured Pictures by <span class="smcap">H.B. Neilson</span>. <i>Super Royal 16mo.
+2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Brabant (F.G.)</b>, M.A. See The Little Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Brodrick (Mary) and Morton (Anderson)</b>. A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF
+EGYPTIAN ARCH&AElig;OLOGY. With many Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Brooke (A.S.)</b>, M.A. SLINGSBY AND SLINGSBY CASTLE. With many
+Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Brooks (E.W.)</b>. See Byzantine Tests.</p>
+
+<p><b>Brown (P.H.)</b>, Fraser Professor of Ancient (Scottish) History at the
+University of Edinburgh. SCOTLAND IN THE TIME OF QUEEN MARY. <i>Demy
+8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Browne (Sir Thomas)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Brownell (C.L.)</b>. THE HEART OF JAPAN. Illustrated. <i>Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.; also Demy 8vo. 6d.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Browning (Robert)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Buckhand (Francis T.)</b>. CURIOSITIES OF NATURAL HISTORY. With
+Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Harry B. Neilson</span>. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Buckton (A.M.)</b>. THE BURDEN OF ENGELA: a Ballad-Epic. <i>Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.<br />
+</i>EAGER HEART: A Mystery Play. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Budge (E.A. Wallis)</b>. THE GODS OF THE EGYPTIANS. With over 100
+Coloured Plates and many Illustrations, <i>Two Volumes. Royal 8vo. &pound;3.
+3s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bull (Paul)</b>, Army Chaplain. GOD AND OUR SOLDIERS. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bulley (Miss)</b>. See Social Question Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bunyan (John)</b>. THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. Edited, with an Introduction,
+by <span class="smcap">C.H. Firth</span>, M.A. With 39 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">R. Anning
+Bell</span>. <i>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's
+Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Burch (G.J.)</b>, M.A., F.R.S. A MANUAL OF ELECTRICAL SCIENCE. With
+numerous illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Burgess (Gelett)</b>. GOOPS AND HOW TO BE THEM. With numerous
+Illustrations. <i>Small 4to. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Burke (Edmund)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Burn (A.E.)</b>, D.D., Prebendary of Lichfield. See Handbooks of
+Theology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Burn (J.H.)</b>, B.D. See Library of Devotion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Burnand (Sir F.C.)</b>. RECORDS AND REMINISCENCES, PERSONAL AND GENERAL.
+With many Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. Two Volumes. Third Edition. 25s.
+net.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Burns (Robert)</b>, THE POEMS OF. Edited by <span class="smcap">Andrew Lang</span> and
+<span class="smcap">W.A. Craigie</span>. With Portrait. <i>Third Edition. Demy 8vo, gilt
+top. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Burnside (W.F.)</b>, M.A. OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY FOR USE IN SCHOOLS.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Burton (Alfred)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Butler (Joseph)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Caldecott (Alfred)</b>, D.D. See Handbooks of Theology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Calderwood (D.S.)</b>, Headmaster of the Normal School, Edinburgh. TEST
+CARDS IN EUCLID AND ALGEBRA. In three packets of 40, with Answers,
+<i>1s.</i> each. Or in three Books, price <i>2d., 2d., and 3d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Cambridge (Ada) [Mrs. Cross]</b>. THIRTY YEARS IN AUSTRALIA. <i>Demy 8vo.
+7s. 6d.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Canning (George)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Capey (E.F.H.)</b>. See Oxford Biographies.</p>
+
+<p><b>Careless (John)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Carlyle (Thomas)</b>. THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. Edited by <span class="smcap">C.R.L.
+Fletcher</span>, Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. <i>Three Volumes.
+Crown 8vo. 18s.<br />
+</i>THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF OLIVER CROMWELL. With an introduction by
+<span class="smcap">C.H. Firth</span>, M.A., and Notes and Appendices by Mrs. <span class="smcap">S.C.
+Lomas</span>. <i>Three Volumes. Demy 8vo. 18s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Carlyle (R.M. and A.J.)</b>, M.A. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Chamberlin (Wilbur B.)</b>. ORDERED TO CHINA. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Channer (C.C.)</b> and <b>Roberts (M.E.)</b>. LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS,
+PAST AND PRESENT. With 16 full-page Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Chatterton (Thomas)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_6" id="Page_1_6">[6]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Chesterfield (Lord)</b>, THE LETTERS OF, TO HIS SON. Edited, with an
+Introduction by <span class="smcap">C. Strachey</span>, and Notes by <span class="smcap">A.
+Calthrop</span>. <i>Two Volumes. Cr. 8vo. 12s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Christian (F.W.)</b> THE CAROLINE ISLANDS. With many Illustrations and
+Maps. <i>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Cicero</b>. See Classical Translations.</p>
+
+<p><b>Clarke (F.A.)</b>, M.A. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cleather (A.L.) and Crump (B.)</b>. RICHARD WAGNER'S MUSIC DRAMAS:
+Interpretations, embodying Wagner's own explanations. <i>In Four
+Volumes. Fcap 8vo. 2s. 6d. each.<br />
+</i><span class="smcap">Vol. I.&mdash;The Ring of the Nibelung.<br />
+</span><span class="smcap">Vol. II.&mdash;Parsifal, Lohengrin</span>, and <span class="smcap">The Holy Grail.</span></p>
+
+<p><b>Clinch (G.)</b> See The Little Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Clough (W.T.)</b>, Head of the Physical Department East Ham Technical
+College. See Junior School Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Coast (W.G.)</b>, B.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN VERGIL. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Cobb (T.)</b>. See Little Blue Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Collingwood (W.G.)</b>, M.A. THE LIFE OF JOHN RUSKIN. With Portraits.
+<i>New and Cheaper Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</i> Also a Popular Edition. <i>Cr.
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Collins (W.E.)</b>, M.A. See Churchman's Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Colonna</b>. HYPNEROTOMACHIA POLIPHILI UBI HUMANA OMNIA NON NISI SOMNIUM
+ESSE DOCET ATQUE OBITER PLURIMA SCITU SANE QUAM DIGNA COMMEMORAT. An
+edition limited to 350 copies on hand-made paper. <i>Folio. Three Guineas
+net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Combe (William)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cook (A.M.)</b>, M.A. See E.C. Marchant.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cooke-Taylor (R.W.)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Corelli (Marie)</b>. THE PASSING OF THE GREAT QUEEN: A Tribute to the
+Noble Life of Victoria Regina. <i>Small 4to. 1s.<br />
+</i>A CHRISTMAS GREETING. <i>Sm. 4to. 1s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Corkran (Alice)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cotes (Rosemary)</b>. DANTE'S GARDEN. With a Frontispiece. <i>Second
+Edition. Fcap. 8vo. cloth 2s. 6d.; leather, 3s. 6d. net.<br />
+</i>BIBLE FLOWERS. With a Frontispiece and Plan. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Cowley (Abraham)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cox (J. Charles)</b>, LL.D., F.S.A. See Little Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cox (Harold)</b>, B.A. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Crabbe (George)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Craigie (W.A.)</b>. A PRIMER OF BURNS. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Craik (Mrs.)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Crashaw (Richard)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Crawford (F.G.)</b>. See Mary C. Danson.</p>
+
+<p><b>Crouch (W.)</b>, BRYAN KING. With a Portrait. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Cruikshank (G.)</b>. THE LOVING BALLAD OF LORD BATEMAN. With 11 Plates.
+<i>Crown 16vo. 1s. 6d. net. </i>From the edition published by C. Tilt, 1811.</p>
+
+<p><b>Crump (B.)</b>. See A.L. Cleather.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cunliffe (F.H.E.)</b>, Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford. THE HISTORY
+OF THE BOER WAR. With many Illustrations, Plans, and Portraits. <i>In 2
+vols. Quarto. 15s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Cutts (E.L.)</b>, D.D. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Daniell (G.W.)</b>, M.A. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Danson (Mary C.) and Crawford (F.G.)</b>. FATHERS IN THE FAITH. <i>Small
+8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dante</b>. LA COMMEDIA DI DANTE. The Italian Text edited by <span class="smcap">Paget
+Toynbee, M.A.</span>, D.Litt. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Paget Toynbee,
+Little Library, and Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Darley (George)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Davenport (Cyril)</b>. See Connoisseur's Library and Little Books on
+Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dawson (A.J.)</b>. MOROCCO. Being a bundle of jottings, notes,
+impressions, tales, and tributes. With many Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo.
+10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Deane (A.C.)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Delbos (Leon)</b>. THE METRIC SYSTEM. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Demosthenes</b>: THE OLYNTHIACS AND PHILIPPICS. Translated upon a new
+principle by <span class="smcap">Otho Holland</span> <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_7" id="Page_1_7">[7]</a></span></p>
+<p><b>Demosthenes.</b> AGAINST CONON AND CALLICLES. Edited with Notes and
+  Vocabulary, by <span class="smcap">F. Darwin Swift, M.A. </span><i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s.</i></p>
+<p><b>Dickens (Charles).</b> See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dickinson (Emily).</b> POEMS. First Series. <i>Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dickinson (G. L.)</b>. M.A., Fellow of King's College, Cambridge. THE
+GREEK VIEW OF LIFE. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dickson (H. N.)</b>.&nbsp;  F.R.S.E., F.R.Met. Soc METEOROLOGY, Illustrated.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dilke (Lady).</b> See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dillon (Edward).</b> See Connoisseur's Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ditchfield (P.H.).</b> M.A., F.S.A. ENGLISH VILLAGES. Illustrated.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i> <br />
+THE STORY OF OUR ENGLISH TOWNS. With an
+Introduction by AUGUSTUS JESSOPP, D. D. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i> <br />
+OLD ENGLISH CUSTOMS: Extant at the Present Time. An Account of
+Local Observances, Festival Customs, and Ancient Ceremonies yet
+Surviving in Great Britain. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dixon (W.H.).</b> M.A. A PRIMER OF TENNYSON. <i>Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d.</i><br />
+ENGLISH POETRY FROM BLAKE TO BROWNING. <i>Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dole (N.H.).</b> FAMOUS COMPOSERS. With Portraits. <i>Two Volumes. Demy
+8vo net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dowden (J.).</b> D.D., Lord Bishop of Edinburgh. See Churchman's Library</p>
+
+<p><b>Drage (G.)</b> See Books on Business.</p>
+
+<p><b>Driver (S.R.)</b>, D.D., Canon of Christ Church, Regius Professor of
+Hebrew in the University of Oxford. SERMONS ON SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH
+THE OLD TESTAMENT. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Westminster Commentaries.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dryhurst (A.R.).</b> See Little Books on Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Duguid (Charles)</b>, City Editor of the <i>Morning Post,</i> Author of the
+'Story of the Stock Exchange,' etc. See Books on Business.</p>
+
+<p><b>Duncan (S.J.)</b> (Mrs. <span class="smcap">Cotes</span>), Author of 'A Voyage of
+Consolation.' ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LATCH. <i>Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dunn (J.T.)</b>, D.Sc., <b>and Mundella (V.A.)</b>. GENERAL ELEMENTARY
+SCIENCE. With 114 Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dunstan (A.E.)</b>, B.Sc., Head of the Chemical Department, East Ham
+Technical College. See Junior School Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>*Durham (The Earl Of)</b>. A REPORT ON CANADA. With an Introductory
+Note. <i>Demy 8vo. 4s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Dutt (W.A.)</b>. A POPULAR GUIDE TO NORFOLK. <i>Medium 8vo. 6d. net.</i> <br />
+  THE
+NORFOLK BROADS. With coloured and other Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Frank
+Southgate</span>. <i>Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i> See also The Little
+Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Earle (John),</b> Bishop of Salisbury. MICROCOSMOGRAPHE, <span class="smcap">or</span> A
+PIECE OF THE WORLD DISCOVERED; <span class="smcap">in Essayes and Characters. </span><i>Post
+16mo. 2s. net.</i> Reprinted from the Sixth Edition published by Robert
+Allot in 1633.</p>
+
+<p><b>Edwards (Clement)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Edwards (W. Douglas)</b>. See Commercial Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>*Edwards (Betham)</b>. HOME LIFE IN FRANCE. With many Illustrations.
+<i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Egan (Pierce)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Egerton (H.E.)</b>, M.A. A HISTORY OF BRITISH COLONIAL POLICY. <i>Demy
+8vo. 12s. 6d.</i> A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ellaby (C.G.)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ellerton (P.G.)</b>. See S. I. Stone.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ellwood (Thomas)</b>, THE HISTORY OF THE LIFE OF. Edited by <span class="smcap">C.G.
+Crump</span>, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Engel (E.)</b>. A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE: From its Beginning to
+Tennyson. Translated from the German. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Fairbrother (W.H.)</b>, M.A. THE PHILOSOPHY OF T. H. GREEN. <i>Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i> <br />
+FELISSA; OR, THE LIFE AND OPINIONS OF A
+  KITTEN OF SENTIMENT. With 12 Coloured Plates. <i>Post 16mo. 2s. 6d.
+  net.</i> (5-1/2 X 3-1/2). From the edition published by J. Harris, 1811.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_8" id="Page_1_8">[8]</a></span></p>
+<p><b>Farrer (Reginald)</b>. THE GARDEN OF ASIA. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+  6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+<p><b>Ferrier (Susan)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Fidler (T. Claxton)</b>, M. Inst. C.E., Professor of Engineering,
+University College, Dundee in the University of St. Andrews. See Books
+on Business.</p>
+
+<p><b>Fielding (Henry)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Finn (S.W.)</b>, M.A. See Junior Examination Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Firth (C.H.)</b>, M.A. CROMWELL'S ARMY: A History of the English Soldier
+during the Civil Wars, the Commonwealth, and the Protectorate. <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Fisher (G.W.)</b>, M.A. ANNALS OF SHREWSBURY SCHOOL. With numerous
+Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>FitzGerald (Edward)</b>. THE RUB'AIYAT OF OMAR KHAYY&Agrave;M. Printed from the
+Fifth and last Edition. With a Commentary by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Stephen
+Batson</span>, and a Biography of Omar by E.D. Ross. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>
+See also Miniature Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Flecker (W.H.)</b>, M.A., D.C.L., Headmaster of the Dean Close School,
+Cheltenham. THE STUDENT'S PRAYER BOOK. Part <span class="smcap">i</span>. <span class="smcap">Morning
+and Evening Prayer and Litany</span>. With an Introduction and Notes.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Flux (A.W.)</b>, M.A., William Dow Professor of Political Economy in
+M'Gill University, Montreal: sometime Fellow of St. John's College,
+Cambridge, and formerly Stanley-Jevons Professor of Political Economy
+in the Owens Coll., Manchester. ECONOMIC PRINCIPLES. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s.
+6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Fortescue (Mrs. G.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Fraser (David)</b>. A MODERN CAMPAIGN; OR, WAR AND WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY
+IN THE FAR EAST. Illustrated. <i>Crown. 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Fraser (J.F.)</b>. ROUND THE WORLD ON A WHEEL. With 100 Illustrations.
+<i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>French (W.)</b>. See Textbooks of Technology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Freudenreich (Ed. von)</b>. DAIRY BACTERIOLOGY. A Short Manual for the
+Use of Students. Translated by <span class="smcap">J.R. Ainsworth Davis</span>, M.A.
+<i>Second Edition. Revised. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Fulford (H.W.)</b>, M.A. See Churchman's Bible.</p>
+
+<p><b>C.G. and F.C.G.</b> JOHN BULL'S ADVENTURES IN THE FISCAL WONDERLAND. By
+<span class="smcap">Charles Geake</span>. With 46 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">F. Carruthers
+Gould</span>. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gallichan (W.M.)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gambado (Geoffrey, Esq.)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gaskell (Mrs.)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gasquet</b>, the Right Rev. Abbot, O.S.B. See Antiquary's Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>George (H.B.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of New College, Oxford. BATTLES OF
+ENGLISH HISTORY. With numerous Plans. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> Revised, with
+a new Chapter including the South African War. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gibbins (H. de B.)</b>, Litt. D., M.A. INDUSTRY IN ENGLAND: HISTORICAL
+OUTLINES. With 5 Maps. <i>Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.<br />
+</i>A COMPANION GERMAN GRAMMAR. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.<br />
+</i>THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. <i>Tenth Edition.</i> Revised. With Maps
+and Plans. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s.<br />
+</i>ENGLISH SOCIAL REFORMERS. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i> See
+also Commercial Series and Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gibbon (Edward)</b>. THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. A New
+Edition, edited with Notes, Appendices, and Maps, by <span class="smcap">J.B.
+Bury</span>, M.A., Litt. D., Regius Professor of Greek at Cambridge. <i>In
+Seven Volumes. Demy 8vo. Gilt top, 8s. 6d. each. Also, Crown 8vo. 6s.
+each.<br />
+</i>MEMOIRS OF MY LIFE AND WRITINGS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by <span class="smcap">G. Birkbeck Hill</span>, LL.D. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>See also Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gibson (E.C.S.)</b>, D.D., Vicar of Leeds. See Westminster
+Commentaries, Handbooks of Theology, and Oxford Biographies.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gilbert (A.R.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+
+<p><b>Godfrey (Elizabeth)</b>. A BOOK OF REMEMBRANCE. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Godley (A.D.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. LYRA
+FRIVOLA. <i>Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.<br />
+</i>VERSES TO ORDER. <i>Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.<br />
+</i>SECOND STRINGS. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_9" id="Page_1_9">[9]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Goldsmith (Oliver)</b>. THE VICAR OF WAKEFIELD. With 24 Coloured Plates
+by <span class="smcap">T. Rowlandson</span>. <i>Royal 8vo. One Guinea net.<br />
+</i>Reprinted from the edition of 1817. Also <i>Fcap. 32mo.</i> With 10 Plates
+in Photogravure by Tony Johannot. <i>Leather, 2s. 6d. net.</i> See also
+Illustrated Pocket Library and Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Goudge (H.L.)</b>, M.A., Principal of Wells Theological College. See
+Westminster Commentaries.</p>
+
+<p><b>Graham (P. Anderson)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Granger (F.S.)</b>, M.A., Litt.D. PSYCHOLOGY. <i>Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d.</i> THE SOUL OF A CHRISTIAN. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gray (E. M'Queen)</b>. GERMAN PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. <i>Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gray (P.L.)</b>, B.Sc., formerly Lecturer in Physics in Mason University
+College, Birmingham. THE PRINCIPLES OF MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY: an
+Elementary Text-Book. With 181 Diagrams. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Green (G. Buckland)</b>, M.A., Assistant Master at
+Edinburgh Academy, late Fellow of St. John's College, Oxon. NOTES ON
+GREEK AND LATIN SYNTAX. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Green (E.T.)</b>, M.A. See Churchman's Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Greenidge (A.H.J.)</b>, M.A. A HISTORY OF ROME: During the Later
+Republic and the Early Principate. <i>In Six Volumes. Demy 8vo.</i> Vol. I.
+(133-104 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>). <i>10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Greenwell (Dora)</b>. See Miniature Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gregory (R.A.)</b> THE VAULT OF HEAVEN. A Popular Introduction to
+Astronomy. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gregory (Miss E.C.)</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Greville Minor</b>. A MODERN JOURNAL. Edited by <span class="smcap">J.A. Spender</span>.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Grinling (C.H.)</b>. A HISTORY OF THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, 1845-95.
+With Illustrations. Revised, with an additional chapter. <i>Demy 8vo.
+10s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Grubb (H.C.)</b>. See Textbooks of Technology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Guiney (Louisa I.)</b>. HURRELL FROUDE: Memoranda and Comments.
+Illustrated. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gwynn (M.L.)</b>. A BIRTHDAY BOOK. <i>Royal 8vo. 12s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hackett (John)</b>, B.D. A HISTORY OF THE ORTHODOX CHURCH OF CYPRUS.
+With Maps and Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 15s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Haddon (A.C.)</b>, Sc.D., F.R.S. HEAD-HUNTERS, BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN.
+With many Illustrations and a Map. <i>Demy 8vo. 15s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hadfield (R.A.)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hall (R.N.) and Neal (W.G.)</b>. THE ANCIENT RUINS OF RHODESIA. With
+numerous Illustrations. <i>Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.
+net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hall (R.N.)</b>. GREAT ZIMBABWE. With numerous Plans and Illustrations.
+<i>Royal 8vo. 21s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hamilton (F.J.)</b>, D.D. See Byzantine Texts.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hammond (J.L.)</b>. CHARLES JAMES FOX: A Biographical Study. <i>Demy 8vo.
+10s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hannay (D.)</b>. A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ROYAL NAVY, <span class="smcap">From Early Times
+to the Present Day</span>. Illustrated. <i>Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.
+each.</i> Vol. I. 1200-1688.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hannay (James O.)</b>, M.A. THE SPIRIT AND ORIGIN OF CHRISTIAN
+MONASTICISM. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE WISDOM OF THE DESERT. <i>Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hare, (A.T.)</b>, M.A. THE CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE INDUCTION COILS. With
+numerous Diagrams. <i>Demy 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Harrison (Clifford)</b>. READING AND READERS. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hawthorne (Nathaniel)</b>. See Little Library. HEALTH, WEALTH AND
+WISDOM. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Heath (Frank R.)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p>
+
+<p><b>Heath (Dudley)</b>. See Connoisseur's Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hello (Ernest)</b>. STUDIES IN SAINTSHIP. Translated from the French by
+<span class="smcap">V.M. Crawford</span>. <i>Fcap 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Henderson (B.W.)</b>. Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford. THE LIFE AND
+PRINCIPATE OF THE EMPEROR NERO. With Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s.
+6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Henderson (T.F.)</b>. See Little Library and Oxford Biographies.</p>
+
+<p><b>Henley (W.E.)</b>. ENGLISH LYRICS. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Henley (W.E.) and Whibley (C.)</b>. A BOOK OF ENGLISH PROSE. <i>Crown 8vo.
+Buckram, gilt top. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Henson (H.H.)</b>, B.D., Canon of Westminster. APOSTOLIC CHRISTIANITY:
+As Illustrated by the Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians. <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_10" id="Page_1_10">[10]</a></span><br />
+LIGHT AND LEAVEN: HISTORICAL AND SOCIAL SERMONS. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>DISCIPLINE AND LAW. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Herbert (George)</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Herbert Of Cherbury (Lord)</b>. See Miniature Library.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hewins (W.A.S.)</b>, B.A. ENGLISH TRADE AND FINANCE IN THE SEVENTEENTH
+CENTURY. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Heywood (W.)</b>. PALIO AND PONTE: A Book of Tuscan Games. Illustrated.
+<i>Royal 8vo. 21s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hilbert (T.)</b>. See Little Blue Books.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hill (Glare)</b>, Registered Teacher to the City and Guilds of London
+Institute. See Textbooks of Technology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hill (Henry)</b>, B.A., Headmaster of the Boy's High School, Worcester,
+Cape Colony. A SOUTH AFRICAN ARITHMETIC. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.<br />
+</i>This book has been specially written for use in South African schools.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hillegas (Howard C.)</b>. WITH THE BOER FORCES. With 24 Illustrations.
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hobhouse (Emily)</b>. THE BRUNT OF THE WAR. With Map and Illustrations.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hobhouse (L.T.)</b>, Fellow of C.C.C., Oxford. THE THEORY OF KNOWLEDGE.
+<i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hobson (J.A.)</b>, M.A. INTERNATIONAL TRADE: A Study of Economic
+Principles. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i> See also Social Questions
+Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hodgkin (T.)</b>, D.C.L. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hogg (Thomas Jefferson)</b>. SHELLEY AT OXFORD. With an Introduction by
+<span class="smcap">R.A. Streatfeild</span>. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Holden-Stone (G. de)</b>. See Books on Business.</p>
+
+<p><b>Holdich (Sir T.H.)</b>. K.C.I.E. THE INDIAN BORDERLAND: being a Personal
+Record of Twenty Years. Illustrated. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Holdsworth (W.S.)</b>, M.A. A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. <i>In Two Volumes.
+Vol. I. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Holyoake (G.J.)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hoppner</b>. See Little Galleries.</p>
+
+<p><b>Horace</b>. See Classical Translations.</p>
+
+<p><b>Horsburgh (E.L.S.)</b>, M.A. WATERLOO: A Narrative and Criticism. With
+Plans. <i>Second Edition. Crown. 8vo. 5s.</i> See also Oxford Biographies.</p>
+
+<p><b>Horth (A.C.)</b>., Master of Art and Manual Training Departments, Roan
+School, Greenwich. See Textbooks of Technology.</p>
+
+<p><b>Horton (R.F.)</b>, D.D. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hosie (Alexander)</b>. MANCHURIA. With Illustrations and a Map. <i>Second
+Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>How (F.D.)</b>. SIX GREAT SCHOOLMASTERS. With Portraits and
+Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Howell (G.)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hudson (Robert)</b>, MEMORIALS OF A WARWICKSHIRE PARISH. With many
+Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 15s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hughes (C.E.)</b>. THE PRAISE OF SHAKESPEARE. An English Anthology. With
+a Preface by <span class="smcap">Sidney Lee</span>. <i>Demy 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hughes (Thomas)</b>. TOM BROWN'S SCHOOLDAYS. With an Introduction and
+Notes by <span class="smcap">Vernon Rendall</span>. <i>Leather. Royal 32mo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hutchinson (Horace G.)</b>. THE NEW FOREST. Described by. Illustrated in
+colour with 50 Pictures by <span class="smcap">Walter Tyndale</span> and 4 by Miss
+<span class="smcap">Lucy Kemp Welch</span>. <i>Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hutton (A.W.)</b>, M.A. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hutton (R.H.)</b>. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hutton (W.H.)</b>, M.A. THE LIFE OF SIR THOMAS MORE. With Portraits.
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 5s.</i> See also Leaders of Religion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hyett (F.A.)</b>. A SHORT HISTORY OF FLORENCE. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Ibsen (Henrik)</b>. BRAND. A Drama. Translated by <span class="smcap">William
+Wilson</span>. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Inge (W.R.)</b>, M.A., Fellow and Tutor of Hertford College, Oxford.
+CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. The Bampton Lectures for 1899. <i>Demy 8vo. 12s.
+6d. net</i>, See also Library of Devotion.</p>
+
+<p><b>Innes (A.D.)</b>, M.A. A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH IN INDIA. With Maps and
+Plans. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_11" id="Page_1_11">[11]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>
+<b>Jackson (S.)</b>, M.A. See Commercial Series.</p><p>
+<b>Jackson (F. Hamilton)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Jacob (F.)</b>, M.A. See Junior Examination Series.</p><p>
+<b>Jeans (J. Stephen)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p><p>
+<b>Jeffreys (D. Gwyn)</b>. DOLLY'S THEATRICALS. Described and Illustrated with 24
+Coloured Pictures. <i>Super Royal 16mo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Jenks (E.)</b>, M.A., Reader of Law in the University of Oxford. ENGLISH LOCAL
+GOVERNMENT. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Jessopp (Augustus)</b>, D.D. See Leaders of Religion.</p><p>
+<b>Jevons (F.B.)</b>, M.A., Litt.D., Principal of Hatfield Hall, Durham. See Churchman's Library
+and Handbooks of Theology.</p><p>
+<b>Johnson (Mrs. Barham)</b>. WILLIAM BODHAM DONNE AND HIS FRIENDS.
+With Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Johnston (Sir H.H.)</b>, K.C.B. BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA. With nearly 200
+Illustrations and Six Maps. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 18s. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Jones (H.)</b>. See Commercial Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Jones (L.A. Atherley)</b>, K.C., M.P., and Bellot <b>(Hugh H.L.)</b>. THE MINERS'
+GUIDE TO THE COAL MINES' REGULATION ACTS. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Jonson (Ben)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p><p>
+<b>Julian (Lady) Of Norwich</b>. REVELATIONS OF DIVINE LOVE. Edited by <span class="smcap">Grace
+Warrack</span>. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Juvenal</b>. See Classical Translations.</p><p>
+<b>Kaufmann (M.)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p><p>
+<b>Keating (J.F.)</b>, D.D. THE AGAPE AND THE EUCHARIST. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Keats (John)</b>. THE POEMS OF. Edited with Introduction and Notes by E. de Selincourt,
+M.A. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i> See also Little Library and Methuen's Universal
+Library.</p><p>
+<b>Keble (John)</b>. THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. With an Introduction and Notes by <span class="smcap">W.
+Lock</span>, D.D., Warden of Keble College. Illustrated by <span class="smcap">R. Anning Bell</span>. <i>Third Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; padded morocco, 5s.</i> See also Library of Devotion.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Kempis (Thomas A.)</b>. THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. With an Introduction by <span class="smcap">Dean
+Farrar</span>. Illustrated by <span class="smcap">C.M. Gere</span>. <i>Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; padded morocco,
+5s.</i>  See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's Universal Library.<br />
+Also Translated by <span class="smcap">C. Bigg</span>, D.D. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Kennedy (James Houghton)</b>, D.D., Assistant Lecturer in Divinity in the University of
+Dublin. ST. PAUL'S SECOND AND THIRD EPISTLES TO THE CORINTHIANS.
+With Introduction, Dissertations and Notes. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Kestell (J.D.)</b>. THROUGH SHOT AND FLAME: Being the Adventures and Experiences
+of <span class="smcap">J.D. Kestell</span>, Chaplain to General Christian de Wet. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Kimmins (C.W.)</b>, M.A. THE CHEMISTRY OF LIFE AND HEALTH. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Kinglake (A.W.)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Kipling (Rudyard)</b>.  BARRACK-ROOM BALLADS.  <i>73rd Thousand.  Cr. 8vo.
+Twentieth Edition. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+THE SEVEN SEAS. <i>62nd Thousand.  Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo, gilt top, 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+THE FIVE NATIONS. <i>41st Thousand. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. <i>Sixteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Knowling (E.J.)</b>, M.A., Professor of New Testament Exegesis at King's College, London.
+See Westminster Commentaries.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Lamb (Charles and Mary)</b>, THE WORKS OF. Edited by <span class="smcap">E.V. Lucas</span>. With
+Numerous Illustrations. <i>In Seven Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. each.<br />
+</i>THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. With over 100 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">A. Garth Jones</span>, and an Introduction
+by <span class="smcap">E.V. Lucas</span>. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.<br />
+</i>THE KING AND QUEEN OF HEARTS: An 1805 Book for Children. Illustrated by
+<span class="smcap">William Mulready</span>. A new edition, in facsimile, edited by <span class="smcap">E.V. Lucas</span>, <i>1s. 6d.<br />
+</i>See also Little Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Lambert (F.A.H.)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Lambros (Professor)</b>. See Byzantine Texts.</p><p>
+<b>Lane-Poole (Stanley)</b>. A HISTORY OF EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. Fully
+Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_12" id="Page_1_12">[12]</a></span><b>Langbridge (F.)</b>, M.A. BALLADS OF THE BRAVE: Poems of Chivalry. Enterprise,
+  Courage, and Constancy. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Law (William)</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Leach (Henry)</b>. THE DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. A Biography. With 12 Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo, 12s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+<p>
+*<b>Lee (Captain L. Melville).</b> A HISTORY OF POLICE IN ENGLAND. <i>Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Leigh (Percival)</b>. THE COMIC ENGLISH GRAMMAR. Embellished with upwards of
+50 characteristic Illustrations by <span class="smcap">John Leech</span>. <i>Post 16mo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Lewes (V.B.)</b>, M.A. AIR AND WATER. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Lisle (Fortun&eacute;e de)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Littlehales (H.)</b>. See Antiquary's Books.</p><p>
+<b>Lock (Walter)</b>, D.D., Warden of Keble College. ST. PAUL, THE MASTER-BUILDER. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i> See also Leaders of Religion.</p><p>
+<b>Locke (John)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p><p>
+<b>Locker (F.)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Longfellow (H.W.)</b>. See Little Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Lorimer (George Horace)</b>. LETTERS FROM A SELF-MADE MERCHANT TO
+HIS SON. <i>Twelfth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+OLD GORGON GRAHAM. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Lover (Samuel)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library</p>
+<p>
+<b>E.V.L.</b> and <b>C.L.G.</b> ENGLAND DAY BY DAY: Or, The Englishman's Handbook to
+Efficiency. Illustrated by <span class="smcap">George Morrow</span>. <i>Fourth Edition. Fcap. 4to. 1s. net.<br />
+</i>A burlesque Year-Book and Almanac.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Lucas (E.V.)</b>. THE LIFE OF CHARLES LAMB. With numerous Portraits and Illustrations. <i>Two Vols. Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Lucian</b>. See Classical Translations.</p><p>
+<b>Lyde (L.W.)</b>, M.A. See Commercial Series.</p><p>
+<b>Lydon (Noel S.)</b>. See Junior School Books.</p><p>
+<b>Lyttelton (Hon. Mrs. A.)</b>. WOMEN AND THEIR WORK. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>M.M.</b> HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR. <i>Crown 8vo, 1s. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Macaulay (Lord)</b>. CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL ESSAYS. Edited by <span class="smcap">F.C. Montague</span>,
+M.A. <i>Three Volumes. Cr. 8vo. 18s.</i> The only edition of this book completely annotated.</p>
+<p>
+<b>M'Allen (J.E.B.)</b>, M.A. See Commercial Series.</p><p>
+<b>MacCulloch (J.A.)</b>. See Churchman's Library.</p><p>
+<b>MacCunn (F.)</b>. See Leaders of Religion.</p><p>
+<b>McDermott, (E.R.)</b>, Editor of the <i>Railway News</i>, City Editor of the <i>Daily News</i>. See
+Books on Business.</p><p>
+<b>M'Dowall (A.S.)</b>. See Oxford Biographies.</p><p>
+<b>Mackay (A.M.)</b>. See Churchman's Library.</p><p>
+<b>Magnus (Laurie)</b>, M.A. A PRIMER OF WORDSWORTH. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Mahaffy (J.P.)</b>, Litt. D. A HISTORY OF THE EGYPT OF THE PTOLEMIES.
+Fully Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Maitland (F.W.)</b>. LL.D., Downing Professor of the Laws of England in the University of
+Cambridge. CANON LAW IN ENGLAND. <i>Royal 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Maiden (H.E.)</b>, M.A. ENGLISH RECORDS. A Companion to the History of England. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i><br />
+THE ENGLISH CITIZEN: HIS RIGHTS AND DUTIES. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Marchant (E.C.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of Peterhouse, Cambridge. A GREEK ANTHOLOGY. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Marchant (B.C.)</b>, M.A., and <b>Cook (A.M.)</b>, M.A. PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Marlowe (Christopher)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Marr (J.E.)</b>, F.R.S., Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. THE SCIENTIFIC
+STUDY OF SCENERY. <i>Second Edition.</i> Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+AGRICULTURAL GEOLOGY. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Marvell (Andrew)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Maskell (A.)</b> See Connoisseur's Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Mason (A.J.)</b>, D.D. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Massee (George)</b>. THE EVOLUTION OF PLANT LIFE: Lower Forms. With
+Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_13" id="Page_1_13">[13]</a></span></p>
+<p><b>Masterman (C.F.G.)</b>, M.A. TENNYSON AS A RELIGIOUS TEACHER, <i>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>May (Phil)</b>. THE PHIL MAY ALBUM.  <i>Second Edition, 4to. 1s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Mellows (Emma S.)</b>. A SHORT STORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. <i>Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Michell (E.B.)</b>. THE ART AND PRACTICE OF HAWKING. With 3 Photogravures
+by <span class="smcap">G.E. Lodge</span>, and other Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+*<b>Millais (J.G.)</b>. THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF SIR JOHN EVERETT MILLAIS,
+President of the Royal Academy. With 319 Illustrations, of which 9 are in Photogravure. <i>New Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Millais (Sir John Everett)</b>. See Little Galleries.</p><p>
+<b>Millis (C.T.)</b>, M.I.M.E., Principal of the Borough Polytechnic College. See Textbooks of
+Technology.</p><p>
+<b>Milne (J.G.)</b>, M.A. A HISTORY OF ROMAN EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Milton, John</b>, THE POEMS OF, BOTH ENGLISH AND LATIN, Compos'd at several
+times. Printed by his true Copies.
+The Songs were set in Musick by Mr. <span class="smcap">Henry Lawes</span>, Gentleman of the Kings Chappel,
+and one of His Majesties Private Musick.
+Printed and published according to Order.
+Printed by <span class="smcap">Ruth Raworth</span> for <span class="smcap">Humphrey Moselev</span>, and are to be sold at the signe of the
+Princes Armes in Pauls Churchyard, 1645.
+See also Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.</p><p>
+<b>Minchin (H.C.)</b>, M.A. See Little Galleries.</p><p>
+<b>Mitchell (P. Chalmers)</b>, M.A. OUTLINES OF BIOLOGY. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> A text-book designed to cover the Schedule issued by the Royal College of Physicians
+and Surgeons.</p><p>
+<b>'Moil (A.)'</b>. See Books on Business.</p><p>
+<b>Moir (D.M.)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Moore (H.E.)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p><p>
+<b>Moran (Clarence G.)</b>. See Books on Business.</p><p>
+<b>More (Sir Thomas)</b>. See Methuen's Universal Library.</p><p>
+<b>Morfill (W.R.)</b>, Oriel College, Oxford. A HISTORY OF RUSSIA FROM PETER
+THE GREAT TO ALEXANDER II. With Maps and Plans. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Morich (R.J.)</b>, late of Clifton College. See School Examination Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Morris (J.E.)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Morton (Miss Anderson)</b>. See Miss Brodrick.</p><p>
+<b>Moule (H.C.G.)</b>, D.D., Lord Bishop of Durham. See Leaders of Religion.</p><p>
+<b>Muir (M.M. Pattison)</b>, M.A.  THE CHEMISTRY OF FIRE.  The Elementary
+Principles of Chemistry. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Mundella (V.A.)</b>, M.A. See J.T. Dunn.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Munro (R.)</b>, LL. D. See The Antiquary's Books.</p><p>
+<b>Naval Officer (A)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Neal (W.G.)</b>. See R.N. Hall.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Newman (J.H.) and Others</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>Nichols (J.B.B.)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Nicklin (T.)</b>, M.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN THUCYDIDES. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Nimrod</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p><p>
+<b>Northcote (James)</b>, R.A.  THE CONVERSATIONS OF JAMES NORTHCOTE,
+R.A., AND JAMES WARD.  Edited by <span class="smcap">Ernest Fletcher</span>. With many Portraits. <i>Demy 8vo 10s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+*<b>Norway (A.H.)</b>, Author of 'Highways and Byways in Devon and Cornwall.' NAPLES.
+With 24 Coloured Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Maurice Greiffenhagen</span>. A New Edition. <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Novalis</b>.  THE DISCIPLES AT SA&Iuml;S AND OTHER FRAGMENTS. Edited by Miss <span class="smcap">Una Birch</span>. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Oliphant (Mrs.)</b>. See Leaders of Religion.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Oman (C.W.C.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of All Souls', Oxford. A HISTORY OF THE ART OF
+WAR. Vol. <span class="smcap">ii</span>.: The Middle Ages, from the Fourth to the Fourteenth Century. Illustrated, <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Ottley (R.L.)</b>, D.D., Professor of Pastoral Theology at Oxford and Canon of Christ Church.
+See Handbooks of Theology and Leaders of Religion.</p><p>
+<b>Owen (Douglas)</b>, Barrister-at-Law, Secretary to the Alliance Marine and General Assurance
+Company. See Books on Business.</p><p>
+<b>Oxford (M.N.)</b>, of Guy's Hospital.  A HANDBOOK OF NURSING. <i>Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_14" id="Page_1_14">[14]</a></span></p>
+<p><b>Pakes (W.C.C.)</b>. THE SCIENCE OF HYGIENE. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Demy
+  8vo. 15s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Palmer (Frederick)</b>. WITH KUROKI IN MANCHURIA  With many Illustrations. <i>Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Parker (Gilbert)</b>. A LOVER'S DIARY: SONGS IN SEQUENCE. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 5s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Parkinson (John)</b>. PARADISI IN SOLE PARADISUS TERRISTRIS, OR A
+GARDEN OF ALL SORTS OF PLEASANT FLOWERS. <i>Folio.</i><i> &pound;5, 5s. net.</i> Also an Edition of 20 copies on Japanese vellum. <i>Ten Guineas net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Parmenter (John)</b>. HELIO-TROPES, OR NEW POSIES FOR SUNDIALS, 1625.
+Edited by <span class="smcap">Percival Landon</span>. <i>Quarto. 3s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Parmentier (Prof. L&eacute;on)</b>. See Byzantine Texts.</p><p>
+<b>Pascal</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>Paston (George)</b>. SOCIAL CARICATURES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. <i>Imperial Quarto. &pound;2, 12s. 6d. net.</i> See also Little Books on Art and Illustrated Pocket
+Library.</p><p>
+<b>Paterson (W.R.)</b> (Benjamin Swift). LIFE'S QUESTIONINGS. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Patterson (A.H.)</b>. NOTES OF AN EAST COAST NATURALIST.  Illustrated in
+Colour by <span class="smcap">F. Southgate</span>. <i>Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Peacock (N.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Pearce (E.H.)</b>, M.A.  ANNALS OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL.  With many Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Peary (R.E.)</b>, Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society. NORTHWARD OVER THE GREAT ICE. With over 800 Illustrations, <i>2 vols. Royal 8vo. 32s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Peel (Sidney)</b>, late Fellow of Trinity College, Oxford, and Secretary to the Royal Commission
+on the Licensing Laws. PRACTICAL LICENSING REFORM.  <i>Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Peters (J.P.)</b>, D.D. See Churchman's Library.</p><p>
+<b>Petrie (W.M. Flinders)</b>, D.C.L., LL.D., Professor of Egyptology at University College. A
+HISTORY OF EGYPT, <span class="smcap">From the Earliest Times to the Present Day</span>.  Fully
+Illustrated. <i>In six volumes. Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i><br />
+<span class="smcap">Vol. i.</span> <span class="smcap">Prehistoric Times to XVIth Dynasty</span>. <i>Fifth Edition.</i><br />
+<span class="smcap">Vol. ii.</span> <span class="smcap">The XVIIth And XVIIIth Dynasties</span>. <i>Fourth Edition.</i><br />
+<span class="smcap">Vol. iii.</span> <span class="smcap">XIXth To XXXth Dynasties</span>.<br />
+<span class="smcap">Vol. iv.</span> <span class="smcap">The Egypt of the Ptolemies</span>. <span class="smcap">J.P. Mahaffy</span>, Litt.D.<br />
+<span class="smcap">Vol. v.</span> <span class="smcap">Roman Egypt</span>. <span class="smcap">J.G. Milne</span>, M.A.<br />
+<span class="smcap">Vol. vi.</span> <span class="smcap">Egypt in the Middle Ages</span>. <span class="smcap">Stanley Lane-Poole</span>, M.A.<br />
+RELIGION AND CONSCIENCE IN ANCIENT EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. <i>Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d.</i><br />
+SYRIA AND EGYPT, FROM THE TELL EL AMARNA TABLETS. <i>Crown 8vo.
+2s. 6d.</i><br />
+EGYPTIAN TALES. Illustrated by <span class="smcap">Tristram Ellis</span>. <i>In Two Volumes. Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. each.</i><br />
+EGYPTIAN DECORATIVE ART. With 120 Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Phillips (W.A.)</b>. See Oxford Biographies.</p><p>
+<b>Phillpotts (Eden)</b>. MY DEVON YEAR. With 38 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">J. Ley Pethybridge.</span> <i>Second and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Pienaar (Philip)</b>. WITH STEYN AND DE WET. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Plautus</b>. THE CAPTIVI. Edited, with an Introduction, Textual Notes, and a Commentary,
+by <span class="smcap">W.M. Lindsay</span>, Fellow of Jesus College, Oxford. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Plowden-Wardlaw (J.T.)</b>, B.A., King's Coll. Camb. See School Examination Series.</p><p>
+<b>Pocock (Roger)</b>. A FRONTIERSMAN. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Podmore (Frank)</b>. MODERN SPIRITUALISM. <i>Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i> A History and a Criticism.</p><p>
+<b>Poer (J. Patrick Le).</b>  A MODERN LEGIONARY. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Pollard (Alice)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Pollard (A.W.)</b>.  OLD PICTURE BOOKS.  With many Illustrations.  <i>Demy 8vo.
+7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Pollard (Eliza F.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Pollock (David)</b>, M.I.N.A., Author of 'Modern Shipbuilding and the Men engaged in it',
+etc., etc. See Books on Business.</p><p>
+<b>Potter (M.C.)</b>, M.A., F.L.S. A TEXT-BOOK OF AGRICULTURAL BOTANY. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_15" id="Page_1_15">[15]</a></span></p>
+<p><b>Potter Boy (An Old)</b>, WHEN I WAS A CHILD. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Pradeau (G.).</b> A KEY TO THE TIME ALLUSIONS IN THE DIVINE COMEDY.
+With a Dial. <i>Small quarto. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Prance (G.)</b>. See R. Wyon.</p><p>
+<b>Prescott (O.L.)</b>. ABOUT MUSIC, AND WHAT IT IS MADE OF.  <i>Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Price (L.L.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of Oriel College, Oxon.  A HISTORY OF ENGLISH
+POLITICAL ECONOMY. <i>Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Primrose (Deborah)</b>. A MODERN B&#338;OTIA. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>PROTECTION AND INDUSTRY</b>. By various Writers. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Pugin</b> and <b>Rowlandson</b>. THE MICROCOSM OF LONDON, <span class="smcap">or London in Miniature</span>.
+With 104 Illustrations in colour. <i>In Three Volumes. Small 4to. &pound;3, 3s. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>'Q' (A.T. Quiller Couch)</b>. THE GOLDEN POMP. (A Procession of English Lyrics.) <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Quevedo Villegas</b>. See Miniature Library.</p><p>
+<b>G.R.</b> and <b>E.S.</b> THE WOODHOUSE CORRESPONDENCE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Rackham (R.B.)</b>, M.A. See Westminster Commentaries.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Randolph (B.W.)</b>, D.D., Principal of the Theological College, Ely. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>Rannie (D.W.)</b>, M.A. A STUDENT'S HISTORY OF SCOTLAND. <i>Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Rashdall (Hastings)</b>, M.A., Fellow and Tutor of New College, Oxford. DOCTRINE
+AND DEVELOPMENT. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Rawstorne (Lawrence, Esq.)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p><p>
+<b>A Real Paddy</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p><p>
+<b>Reason (W.)</b>, M.A. See Social Questions Series.</p><p>
+<b>Redfern (W.B.)</b>, Author of 'Ancient Wood and Iron Work in Cambridge,' etc. ROYAL
+AND HISTORIC GLOVES AND ANCIENT SHOES.  Profusely Illustrated in
+colour and half-tone. <i>Quarto, &pound;2, 2s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Reynolds</b>. See Little Galleries.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Roberts (M.E.)</b>. See C.C. Channer.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Robertson, (A.)</b>, D.D., Lord Bishop of Exeter. REGNUM DEI. The Bampton Lectures
+of 1901. <i>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Robertson (C. Grant)</b>, M.A., Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford, Examiner in the Honour
+School of Modern History, Oxford, 1901-1904. SELECT STATUTES, CASES, AND
+CONSTITUTIONAL DOCUMENTS, 1660-1832. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+*<b>Robertson (Sir G.S.)</b>, K.C.S.I. CHITRAL: The Story of a Minor Siege. With numerous
+Illustrations, Map and Plans. <i>Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Robinson (A.W.)</b>, M.A. See Churchman's Bible.</p><p>
+<b>Robinson (Cecilia)</b>. THE MINISTRY OF DEACONESSES. With an Introduction by
+the late Archbishop of Canterbury. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Rochefoucauld (La)</b>, See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Rodwell (G.)</b>, B.A. NEW TESTAMENT GREEK. A Course for Beginners. With a
+Preface by <span class="smcap">Walter Lock</span>, D.D., Warden of Keble College. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Roe (Fred)</b>. ANCIENT COFFERS AND CUPBOARDS: Their History and Description.
+With many Illustrations. <i>Quarto. &pound;3, 3s. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Rogers (A.G.L.)</b>, M.A., Editor of the last volume of 'The History of Agriculture and
+Prices in England.' See Books on Business.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Romney</b>. See Little Galleries.</p><p>
+<b>Roscoe (E.S.)</b>. ROBERT HARLEY, EARL OF OXFORD. Illustrated. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i> This is the only life of Harley in existence.
+See also The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Rose (Edward)</b>. THE ROSE READER. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo.
+2s. 6d. Also in 4 Parts. Parts I. and II. 6d. each; Part III. 8d.; Part IV. 10d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Rubie (A.E.)</b>. D.D., Head Master of College, Eltham. See Junior School Books.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Russell (W. Clark)</b>. THE LIFE OF ADMIRAL LORD COLLINGWOOD. With
+Illustrations by <span class="smcap">F. Brangwyn</span>. <i>Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.<br />
+</i>A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+<p>
+<b>St. Anselm</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>St. Augustine</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>'Saki' (H. Munro)</b>. REGINALD. <i>Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Sales (St. Francis de)</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>Salmon (A.L.)</b>. A POPULAR GUIDE TO DEVON. <i>Medium 8vo. 6d. net.</i> See also
+The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Sargeaunt (J.)</b>, M.A. ANNALS OF WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. With numerous
+Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Sathas (C.)</b>. See Byzantine Texts.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_16" id="Page_1_16">[16]</a></span></p>
+<p>
+<b>Schmitt (John).</b> See Byzantine Texts.</p><p>
+<b>Scott, (A.M.)</b> WINSTON SPENCER CHURCHILL. With Portraits and Illustrations. <i>Crown</i> 8vo. 3s. 6d.</p><p>
+<b>Seeley (H.G.)</b> F.R.S. DRAGONS OF THE AIR. With many Illustrations. <i>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Selincourt (E. de)</b>, M.A. THE POEMS OF JOHN KEATS. With an Introduction
+and Notes, and a Portrait in Photogravure. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.
+net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Sells (V.P.)</b>, M.A. THE MECHANICS OF DAILY LIFE. Illustrated. <i>Cr.
+8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Selous (Edmund)</b>. TOMMY SMITH'S ANIMALS.  Illustrated by G.W. <span class="smcap">Ord</span>. <i>Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Settle (J.H.)</b>. ANECDOTES OF SOLDIERS. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Shakespeare (William)</b>.<br />
+THE FOUR FOLIOS, 1623; 1632; 1664; 1685. Each <i>Four Guineas net</i>,
+or a complete set. <i>Twelve Guineas net.</i></p><p>
+<b>The Arden Shakespeare</b>.<br />
+<i>Demy 8vo. 2s. 6d. net each volume</i>. General Editor, W.J. <span class="smcap">Craig</span>.
+An Edition of Shakespeare in single Plays.  Edited with a full Introduction, Textual Notes, and a
+Commentary at the foot of the page.<br />
+HAMLET.  Edited by <span class="smcap">Edward Dowden</span>, Litt.D.<br />
+ROMEO AND JULIET. Edited by <span class="smcap">Edward Dowden</span>, Litt.D.<br />
+KING LEAR. Edited by W.J. <span class="smcap">Craig</span>.<br />
+JULIUS CAESAR. Edited by M. <span class="smcap">Macmillan</span>, M.A.<br />
+THE TEMPEST. Edited by <span class="smcap">Moreton Luce</span>.<br />
+OTHELLO. Edited by H.C. <span class="smcap">Hart</span>.<br />
+TITUS ANDRONICUS. Edited by H.B. <span class="smcap">Baildon</span>.<br />
+CYMBELINE. Edited by <span class="smcap">Edward Dowden</span>.<br />
+THE MERRY WIVES OF WINDSOR. Edited by H.C. <span class="smcap">Hart</span>.<br />
+A MIDSUMMER NIGHT'S DREAM. Edited by H. <span class="smcap">Cuningham</span>.<br />
+KING HENRY V. Edited by H.A. <span class="smcap">Evans</span>.<br />
+ALL'S WELL THAT ENDS WELL. Edited by W.O. <span class="smcap">Brigstocke</span>.<br />
+THE TAMING OF THE SHREW. Edited by R. <span class="smcap">Warwick Bond</span>.<br />
+TIMON OF ATHENS. Edited by K. <span class="smcap">Deighton</span>.</p><p>
+<b>The Little Quarto Shakespeare</b>. Edited by W.J. <span class="smcap">Craig</span>. With Introductions and Notes.
+<i>Pott 16mo. In 40 Volumes. Leather, price
+1s. net each volume.</i>
+See also Methuen's Universal Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Sharp (A.)</b>. VICTORIAN POETS. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Sharp (Mrs. E.A.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Shedlock (J.S.)</b>.  THE PIANOFORTE SONATA: Its Origin and Development. <i>Crown 8vo. 5s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Shelley (Percy B.)</b>. ADONAIS; an Elegy on the death of John Keats, Author of
+'Endymion,' etc. Pisa. From the types of Didot, 1821. <i>2s. net.</i> See also Methuen's Universal Library.</p><p>
+<b>Sherwell (Arthur)</b>. M.A. See Social Questions Series.</p><p>
+<b>*Shipley (Mary E.)</b>. AN ENGLISH CHURCH HISTORY FOR CHILDREN.
+With a Preface by the Bishop of Gibraltar, late Professor of Ecclesiastical History at King's
+College, London. With Maps and Illustrations. Part I. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Sichel (Walter)</b>. DISRAELI: A Study in Personality and Ideas. With 3 Portraits. <i>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+See also Oxford Biographies.</p><p>
+<b>Sime (J.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Simonson (G.A)</b>. FRANCESCO GUARDI. With 41 Plates. <i>Royal folio. &pound;2. 2s. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Sketchley (R.E.D.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Skipton (H.P.K.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Sladen (Douglas)</b>. SICILY. With over 200 Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 5s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Small (Evan)</b>, M.A. THE EARTH. An Introduction to Physiography. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Smallwood, (M.O.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Smedley (F.E)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p><p>
+<b>Smith (Adam)</b>. THE WEALTH OF NATIONS.  Edited with an Introduction and
+numerous Notes by <span class="smcap">Edwin Cannan</span>, M.A. <i>Two volumes. Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i> See also Methuen's Universal Library.</p><p>
+<b>Smith (Horace and James)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Snell (P.J.)</b>. A BOOK OF EXMOOR. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_17" id="Page_1_17">[17]</a></span><b>Sophocles</b>. See Classical Translations.</p><p>
+<b>Sornet (L.A.)</b>, Modern Language Master at King Edward School, Birmingham.
+See Junior School Books.</p><p>
+<b>South (Wilton E.)</b>, M.A. See Junior School Books.</p><p>
+<b>Southey (R.) </b>ENGLISH SEAMEN. Edited, with an Introduction, by DAVID HANNAY. <br />
+Vol. 1. (Howard, Clifford, Hawkins, Drake, Cavendish). <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+Vol. II. (Richard Hawkins, Grenville, Essex, and Raleigh). <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Spence (C.H.)</b>, M.A., Clifton College. See School Examination Series.</p><p>
+<b>Spooner (W.A.)</b>, M.A., Warden of New College, Oxford. See Leaders of Religion.</p><p>
+<b>Stanbridge (J.W.)</b>, B.D., late Canon of York, and sometime Fellow of St. John's College, Oxford. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>'Stancliffe.'</b> GOLF DO'S AND DONT'S. <i>Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo.
+1s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Stedman (A.M.M.)</b>, M.A.<br />
+INITIA LATINA: Easy Lessons on Elementary Accidence. <i>Seventh Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s.</i><br />
+FIRST LATIN LESSONS. <i>Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.</i><br />
+FIRST LATIN READER. With Notes adapted to the Shorter Latin Primer and Vocabulary. <i>Sixth Edition revised. 18mo. 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+EASY SELECTIONS FROM C&AElig;SAR. The Helvetian War. <i>Second Edition. 18mo. 1s.</i><br />
+EASY SELECTIONS FROM LIVY.  Part text. The Kings of Rome. <i>18mo. Second Edition, 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+EASY LATIN PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. <i>Tenth Edition. Fcap.
+8vo. 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+EXEMPLA LATINA.  First Exercises in Latin Accidence. With Vocabulary.  <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s.</i><br />
+EASY LATIN EXERCISES ON THE SYNTAX OF THE SHORTER AND
+REVISED LATIN PRIMER.  With Vocabulary. <i>Ninth and Cheaper Edition, rewritten. Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d. Original Edition, 2s. 6d.</i>  KEV, 3s. <i>net.</i><br />
+THE LATIN COMPOUND SENTENCE: Rules and Exercises.  <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i> With Vocabulary. 2s.<br />
+NOTANDA QUAEDAM: Miscellaneous Latin Exercises on Common Rules and Idioms. <i>Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i> With Vocabulary,
+2s. Key, <i>2s. net.</i><br />
+LATIN VOCABULARIES FOR REPETITION: Arranged according to Subjects. <i>Twelfth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+A VOCABULARY OF LATIN IDIOMS. <i>18mo. Second Edition, 1s.</i><br />
+STEPS TO GREEK. <i>Second Edition, revised. 18mo. 1s.</i><br />
+A SHORTER GREEK PRIMER. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+EASY GREEK PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. <i>Third Edition, revised. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+GREEK VOCABULARIES FOR REPETITION.  Arranged according to Subjects. <i>Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+GREEK TESTAMENT SELECTIONS.  For the use of Schools. With Introduction. Notes, and Vocabulary. <i>Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo.
+2s. 6d.</i><br />
+STEPS TO FRENCH.  <i>Sixth Edition. 18mo. 8d.</i><br />
+FIRST FRENCH LESSONS. <i>Sixth Edition. revised. Crown 8vo. 1s.</i><br />
+EASY FRENCH PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION.  <i>Fifth Edition.
+revised. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i><br />
+EASY FRENCH EXERCISES ON ELEMENTARY SYNTAX. With Vocabulary. <i>Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. KEY. 3s. net.</i><br />
+FRENCH VOCABULARIES FOR REPETITION: Arranged according to Subjects. <i>Twelfth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Steel (R. Elliott)</b> M.A., F.C.S. THE WORLD OF SCIENCE. Including Chemistry, Heat, Light, Sound, Magnetism, Electricity, Botany, Zoology, Physiology, Astronomy, and Geology. 147 Illustrations. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i> See also School
+Examination Series.</p><p>
+<b>Stephenson (C.)</b>, of the Technical College, Bradford, and <b>Suddards (F.)</b> of the Yorkshire College, Leeds. ORNAMENTAL DESIGN FOR WOVEN FABRICS. Illustrated. <i>Demy 8vo. Second Edition. 7s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Stephenson (J.)</b>, M.A. THE CHIEF TRUTHS OF THE CHRISTIAN FAITH <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Sterne (Laurence)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Sterry (W.)</b>, M.A. ANNALS OF ETON COLLEGE. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Steuart (Katherine)</b>. BY ALLAN WATER. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Stevenson (R.L.)</b>.  THE LETTERS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON TO HIS
+FAMILY AND FRIENDS.  Selected and Edited, with Notes and Introductions, by SIDNEY COLVIN. <i>Sixth and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 12s.</i><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_18" id="Page_1_18">[18]</a></span>
+LIBRARY EDITION. <i>Demy 8vo. 2 vols. 25s. net.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+VAILIMA LETTERS. With an Etched Portrait by WILLIAM STRANG. <i>Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram. 6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.<br />
+THE LIFE OF R.L. STEVENSON. See G. Balfour.</p><p>
+<b>Stevenson (M.I.)</b>. FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS. Being Letters written by Mrs. M.I. STEVENSON during 1887&mdash;8 to her sister, Miss JANE WHYTE BALFOUR. With an Introduction by GEORGE W. BALFOUR, M.D., LL.D., F.R.S.S. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s. net.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Stoddart (Anna M.)</b>. See Oxford Biographies.</p><p>
+<b>Stone (E.D.)</b>, M.A., late Assistant Master at Eton.  SELECTIONS FROM THE ODYSSEY. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Stone (S.J.)</b>. POEMS AND HYMNS. With a Memoir by F.G. ELLERTON, M.A.
+With Portrait. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Straker (F.)</b>, Assoc. of the Institute of Bankers, and Lecturer to the London Chamber of Commerce. See Books on Business.</p><p>
+<b>Streane (A.W.)</b>, D.D. See Churchman's Bible.</p><p>
+<b>Stroud (H.)</b>, D.Sc., M.A., Professor of Physics in the Durham College of Science, Newcastle-on-Tyne. See Textbooks of Technology.</p><p>
+<b>Strutt (Joseph)</b>.  THE SPORTS AND PASTIMES OF THE PEOPLE OF
+ENGLAND. Illustrated by many engravings. Revised by J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A. <i>Quarto. 21s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Stuart (Capt. Donald)</b>, THE STRUGGLE FOR PERSIA, with a Map. <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Starch (F.)</b>., Manual Training Instructor to the Surrey County Council. SOLUTIONS TO THE CITY AND GUILDS QUESTIONS IN MANUAL INSTRUCTION DRAWING. <i>Imp. 4to. 2s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Suckling (Sir John)</b>. FRAGMENTA AUREA: a Collection of all the Incomparable Pieces, written by. And published by a friend to perpetuate his memory. Printed by his own copies.
+Printed for HUMPHREY MOSELEY, and are to be sold at his shop, at the sign of the Princes Arms in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1646.</p><p>
+<b>Suddards (F.)</b>. See C. Stephenson.</p><p>
+<b>Surtees (R.S.)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library.</p><p>
+<b>Swift (Jonathan)</b>. THE JOURNAL TO STELLA. Edited by G.A. AITKEN. <i>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Symes (J.E.)</b>, M.A. THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. <i>Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Syrett (Netta)</b>. See Little Blue Books.</p><p>
+<b>Tacitus</b>. AGRICOLA. With Introduction, Notes, Map, etc. By R.F. DAVIS, M.A., late Assistant Master at Weymouth College. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s.</i><br />
+GERMANIA. By the same Editor. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s.</i> See also Classical Translations.</p><p>
+<b>Tauler (J.)</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>Taunton (E.L.)</b>. A HISTORY OF THE JESUITS IN ENGLAND. With Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Taylor (A.E.)</b>. THE ELEMENTS OF METAPHYSICS. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.
+net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Taylor (F.G.)</b>, M.A. See Commercial Series.</p><p>
+<b>Taylor (I.A.)</b>. See Oxford Biographies.</p><p>
+<b>Taylor (T.M.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge. A CONSTITUTIONAL AND POLITICAL HISTORY OF ROME. <i>Crown 8vo. 7s.
+6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Tennyson (Alfred, Lord)</b>. THE EARLY POEMS OF. Edited, with Notes and an
+Introduction, by J. CHURTON COLLINS, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+IN MEMORIAM, MAUD, AND THE PRINCESS. Edited by J. CHURTON COLLINS, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Terry (C.S.)</b>. See Oxford Biographies.</p><p>
+<b>Terton (Alice)</b>. LIGHTS AND SHADOWS IN A HOSPITAL. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Thackeray (W.M.)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Theobald (F.W.)</b>, M.A. INSECT LIFE. Illustrated. <i>Second Ed. Revised. Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Thompson (A.H.)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Tileston (Mary W.)</b>. DAILY STRENGTH FOR DAILY NEEDS. <i>Tenth Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i>  Also editions in superior binding <i>5s.
+and 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Tompkins (H.W.)</b>, F.R.H.S. See The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Townley (Lady Susan)</b>. MY CHINESE NOTE-BOOK With 16 Illustrations and 2
+Maps.  <i>Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Toynbee (Paget)</b>, M.A., D.Litt. DANTE STUDIES AND RESEARCHES. <i>Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i>  See also Oxford Biographies.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_19" id="Page_1_19">[19]</a></span>
+  <b>Trench (Herbert)</b>. DEIRDRE, WED: and Other Poems. <i>Crown 8vo. 5s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Trevelyan (G.M.)</b>, Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. ENGLAND UNDER THE
+STUARTS. With Maps and Plans. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Troutbeck (G.E.)</b>. See The Little Guides.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tuckwell (Gertrude)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p><p>
+<b>Twining (Louisa)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tyler (E.A.)</b>, B. A., F.C.S., Head of Chemical Department, Swansea Technical College.
+See Junior School Books.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Tyrell-Gill (Frances)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Vaughan (Henry)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Voegelin (A.)</b>. M.A. See Junior Examination Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wade (G.W.)</b>, D.D. OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY. With Maps. <i>Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Wagner (Richard)</b>. See A.L. Cleather.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wall (J.C.)</b> DEVILS. Illustrated by the Author and from photographs. <i>Demy 8vo.
+is. 6d. net.</i>  See also The Antiquary's Books.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Walters (H.B.)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Walton (Izaac) and Cotton (Charles)</b>. See Illustrated Pocket Library, Methuen's Universal
+Library, and Little Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Warmelo (D.S. Van)</b>. ON COMMANDO. With Portrait. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Waterhouse (Mrs. Alfred)</b>. WITH THE SIMPLE-HEARTED: Little Homilies to
+Women in Country Places. <i>Small Pott 8vo. 2s. net.</i> See also Little Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Weatherhead (T.C.)</b>, M.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN HORACE. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i>
+See also Junior Examination Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Webb (W.T.)</b>. See Little Blue Books.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Webber (P.C)</b>. See Textbooks of Technology.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wells (Sidney H.)</b>. See Textbooks of Technology.</p><p>
+<b>Wells(J.)</b>. M.A., Fellow and Tutor of Wadham College. OXFORD AND OXFORD LIFE.
+By Members of the University. <i>Third Edition Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i><br />
+A SHORT HISTORY OF ROME. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> With 3 Maps. <i>Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i>
+This book is intended for the Middle and Upper Forms of Public Schools and for Pass
+Students at the Universities. It contains copious Tables, etc. See also The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Wetmore (Helen C)</b>. THE LAST OF THE GREAT SCOUTS (' Buffalo Bill'). With
+
+Illustrations. <i>Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+<b>Whibley (C)</b>. See Henley and Whibley.</p><p>
+<b>Whibley (L.)</b>, M.A., Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge.  GREEK OLIGARCHIES:
+THEIR ORGANISATION AND CHARACTER. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p>
+<b>Whitaker (G.H.)</b>, M.A. See Churchman's Bible.</p>
+<p>
+<b>White (Gilbert)</b>.  THE NATURAL HISTORY OF SELBORNE.  Edited by L.C.
+
+MIALL, F.R.S., assisted by W. WARDE FOWLER, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Methuen's
+
+Universal Library.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Whitfield (E.E.</b>) See Commercial Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Whitehead (A. W.)</b>. GASPARD DE COLIGNY. With many Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo.
+
+12s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Whitley (Miss)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Whyte (A.G.)</b>. B.Sc, Editor of <i>Electrical Investments.</i> See Books on Business.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wilberforce (Wilfrid)</b>. See Little Books on Art.</p><p>
+<b>Wilde (Oscar)</b>. DE PROFUNDIS. <i>Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5s. net.</i>
+<br />
+Also a Limited Edition on Japanese Vellum. <i>Demy 8vo. &pound;.2, 2s. net;</i>and a Limited
+
+Edition on hand-made paper. <i>Demy 8vo. 21s. net.</i> <br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wilkins (W.H.)</b>, B. A. See Social Questions Series.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wilkinson (J. Frome)</b>. See Social Questions Series.</p><p>
+<b>Williamson (W.)</b>. THE BRITISH GARDENER. Illustrated. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Williamson (W.)</b>, B.A.  EASY DICTATION AND SPELLING.  <i>Third Edition.</i>
+
+<i>Fcap. 8vo. 1s.</i> See also Junior Examination Series and Junior School Books.</p><p>
+<b>Wilmot-Buxton (E.M.)</b>. MAKERS OF EUROPE. <i>Crown 8vo. Third Edition, 3s. 6d.</i>
+A Text-book of European History for Middle Forms.<br />
+THE ANCIENT WORLD. With Maps and Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. is. 6d.</i> See also The Beginner's Books.</p><p>
+<b>Wilson (Bishop)</b>. See Library of Devotion.</p><p>
+<b>Willson (Beckles)</b>. LORD STRATHCONA: the Story of his Life. Illustrated. <i>Demy</i>
+
+<i>8vo. 7s. 6d.</i>
+<br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wilson (A.J.)</b>, Editor
+of the <i>Investor's Review</i>, City Editor of the <i>Daily Chronicle.</i> See
+Books on Business.</p>
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_20" id="Page_1_20">[20]</a></span><b>Wilson (H.A.)</b>. See Books en Business.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Wilton (Richard)</b>, M.A.  LYRA PASTORALIS: Songs of Nature, Church, and Home. <i>Pott 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i> A volume of devotional poems.</p>
+<p>
+<b>Winbolt (S.E.)</b>, M.A., Assistant Master in Christ's Hospital. EXERCISES IN LATIN ACCIDENCE. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i> An elementary book adapted for Lower Forms to accompany the Shorter Latin Primer.<br />
+LATIN HEXAMETER VERSE: An Aid to Composition. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.
+KEY, 5s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Windle (B.C.A.)</b>, D.Sc., F.R.S. See Antiquary's Books and The Little Guides.</p><p>
+<b>Winterbotham (Canon)</b>, M.A., B.Sc, LL.B. See Churchman's Library.</p><p>
+<b>Wood (J.A.E.)</b>. See Textbooks of Technology.</p><p>
+<b>Wordsworth (Christopher)</b>. See Antiquary's Books.</p><p>
+<b>Wordsworth (W.)</b> See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Wordsworth (W.) and Coleridge (S.T.)</b>. See Little Library.</p><p>
+<b>Wright (Arthur)</b>, M.A., Fellow of Queen's College, Cambridge. See Churchman's Library.</p><p>
+<b>Wright (Sophie)</b>, GERMAN VOCABULARIES FOR REPETITION. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+*<b>Wrong, (George M.)</b>, Professor of History in the University of Toronto. THE EARL OF ELGIN. With Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.
+net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Wylde (A.B.)</b>.  MODERN ABYSSINIA.  With a Map and a Portrait.  <i>Demy 8vo. 15s. net</i>.</p><p>
+<b>Wyndham (G.)</b>, M.P. THE POEMS OF WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE. With an Introduction and Notes. <i>Demy 8vo. Buckram, gilt top. 10s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Wyon (R.) and Prance (G.)</b>. THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN. Being a
+description of Montenegro. With 40 Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i><br />
+A Colonial Edition is also published.</p><p>
+<b>Yeats (W.B.)</b>. AN ANTHOLOGY OF IRISH VERSE. <i>Revised and Enlarged
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Yendis (M.)</b>. THE GREAT RED FROG. A Story told in 40 Coloured Pictures. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 1s. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Young (Filson)</b>.  THE COMPLETE MOTORIST.  With 138 Illustrations.  <i>Third Edition, Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<b>Young (T.M.</b>). THE AMERICAN COTTON INDUSTRY: A Study of Work and
+Workers. With an Introduction by ELIJAH HELM, Secretary to the Manchester Chamber of Commerce. <i>Crown 8vo. Cloth, 2s. 6d.; paper boards, 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Zenker (E.V.)</b>. ANARCHISM. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<b>Zimmern (Antonia)</b>.  WHAT DO WE KNOW CONCERNING ELECTRICITY? <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<h3>Antiquary's Books, The</h3>
+<p class="center">
+General Editor, J. CHARLES COX, LL.D., F.S.A.</p>
+<p class="center">
+A series of volumes dealing with various branches of English Antiquities; comprehensive and popular, as well as accurate and scholarly.</p><p>
+ENGLISH MONASTIC LIFE. By the Right Rev. Abbot Gasquet, O.S.B. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+REMAINS OF THE PREHISTORIC AGE IN ENGLAND. By B.C.A. Windle, D.Sc, F.R.S. With numerous Illustrations and Plans. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+OLD SERVICE BOOKS OF THE ENGLISH CHURCH. By Christopher Wordsworth, M.A., and Henry Littlehales. With Coloured and other Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+CELTIC ART. By J. Romilly Allen, F.S.A. With numerous Illustrations and Plans. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+*ARCHEOLOGY AND FALSE ANTIQUITIES. By R. Munro, LL.D. With numerous Illustrations. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+SHRINES OF BRITISH SAINTS. By J.C. WALL. With numerous Illustrations and Plans. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Beginner's Books, The</b></p>
+<p>
+*EASY FRENCH RHYMES. By Henri Blouet. Illustrated. <i>Fcap. 8vo.
+1s.</i></p><p>
+*EASY STORIES FROM ENGLISH HISTORY. By E.M. Wilmot-Buxton, Author of 'Makers of Europe.' <i>Fcap. 8vo. 1s.</i></p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Business, Books on</b></p><p class="center">
+<i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+A series of volumes dealing with all the most important aspects of commercial and financial activity. The volumes are intended to treat separately all the considerable
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_21" id="Page_1_21">[21]</a></span>industries and forms of business, and to explain accurately and clearly what they do and how they do it. The first Twelve volumes are--</p><p>
+PORTS AND DOCKS. By Douglas Owen.</p><p>
+RAILWAYS. By E.R. McDermott.</p><p>
+THE STOCK EXCHANGE. By Chas. Duguid. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+THE BUSINESS OF INSURANCE. By A.J. Wilson.</p><p>
+THE ELECTRICAL INDUSTRY: LIGHTING, TRACTION, AND POWER. By A.G. Whyte, B.Sc.</p><p>
+THE SHIPBUILDING INDUSTRY. By David Pollock, M.I.N.A.</p><p>
+THE MONEY MARKET. By F. Straker.</p><p>
+THE BUSINESS SIDE OF AGRICULTURE. By A.G.L. Rogers, M.A.</p><p>
+LAW IN BUSINESS. By H.A. Wilson.</p><p>
+THE BREWING INDUSTRY. By Julian L. Baker, F.I.C., F.C.S.</p><p>
+THE AUTOMOBILE INDUSTRY. By G. de H. Stone.</p><p>
+MINING AND MINING INVESTMENTS. By 'A. Moil.'</p><p>
+*THE BUSINESS OF ADVERTISING. By Clarence G. Moran, Barrister-at-Law. Illustrated.</p><p>
+*TRADE UNIONS. By G. Drage.</p><p>
+*CIVIL ENGINEERING.  By T. Claxton Fidler, M.Inst. C.E. Illustrated.</p><p>
+*THE COAL INDUSTRY. By Ernest Aves. Illustrated.</p>
+<p class="center">
+
+<b>Byzantine Texts</b></p><p class="center">
+Edited by J.B. BURY, M.A., Litt.D.</p><p>
+A series of texts of Byzantine Historians, edited by English and foreign scholars.</p><p>
+ZACHARIAH OF MITYLENE. Translated by F.J. Hamilton, D.D., and E.W. Brooks. <i>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+EVAGRIUS. Edited by L&eacute;on Parmentier and M. Bidez. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s.
+6d. net.</i></p><p>
+THE HISTORY OF PSELLUS. Edited by C. Sathas. <i>Demy 8vo. 15s. net.</i></p><p>
+ECTHESIS CHRONICA. Edited by Professor Lambros. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+THE CHRONICLE OF MOREA. Edited by John Schmitt. <i>Demy 8vo. 15s.
+net.</i></p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Churchman's Bible, The</b></p><p class="center">
+General Editor, J.H. BURN, B.D., F.R.S.E.</p><p>
+A series of Expositions on the Books of the Bible, which will be of service to the general reader in the practical and devotional study of the Sacred Text.</p><p>
+Each Book is provided with a full and clear Introductory Section, in which is stated what is known or conjectured respecting the date and occasion of the composition of the Book, and any other particulars that may help to elucidate its meaning as a whole. The Exposition is divided into sections of a convenient length, corresponding as far as possible with the divisions of the Church Lectionary. The Translation of the Authorised Version is printed in full, such corrections as are
+deemed necessary being placed in footnotes.</p><p>
+THE EPISTLE TO THE GALATIANS. Edited by A.W. Robinson, M.A. <i>Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d. net</i>.</p><p>
+ECCLESIASTES. Edited by A.W. Streane, D.D. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d.
+net.</i></p><p>
+THE EPISTLE TO THE PHILIPPIANS. Edited by C.R.D. Biggs, D.D. <i>Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+THE EPISTLE OF ST. JAMES. Edited by H.W. Fulford, M.A. <i>Fcap. 8vo 1s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+ISAIAH. Edited by W.E. Barnes, D.D. <i>Two Volumes. Fcap. 8vo. 2s.
+net each.</i> With Map.</p><p>
+THE EPISTLE OF ST. PAUL THE APOSTLE TO THE EPHESIANS. Edited by G.H. Whitaker, M.A. <i>Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d. net.</i></p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Churchman's Library, The</b></p><p class="center">
+General Editor, J.H. BURN, B.D., F.R.S.E.,</p><p>
+A series of volumes upon such questions as are occupying the attention of Church people at the present time. The Editor has enlisted the services of a band of scholars, who, having made a special study of their respective subjects, are in a position to furnish the best results of modern research accurately and attractively.</p><p>
+THE BEGINNINGS OF ENGLISH CHRISTIANITY.  By W.E. Collins, M.A.  With Map. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+SOME NEW TESTAMENT PROBLEMS. By Arthur Wright, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_22" id="Page_1_22">[22]</a></span>
+</p>
+<p>THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN HERE AND HEREAFTER. By Canon Winterbotham, M.A.,
+  B.Sc, LL. B. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+THE WORKMANSHIP OF THE PRAYER BOOK: Its Literary and Liturgical Aspects. By J. Dowden, D.D. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+EVOLUTION. By F.B. Jevons, M.A., Litt.D. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+THE OLD TESTAMENT AND THE NEW SCHOLARSHIP. By J.W. Peters, D.D. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p><p>
+THE CHURCHMAN'S INTRODUCTION TO THE OLD TESTAMENT. By A.M. Mackay, B.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
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+LYRA INNOCENTIUM. Edited by Walter Lock, D.D.</p><p>
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+
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
+HANDLEY CROSS. By R.S. SURTEES. With 17 Coloured Plates and 90 Woodcuts in the Text by John Leech. <i>3s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
+MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. By R.S. Surtees. With 13 Coloured Plates and 90 Woodcuts in the Text by John Leech. <i>3s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_24" id="Page_1_24">[24]</a></span>Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i> This volume is reprinted from the extremely rare and costly edition of 1843, which contains
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+<span class="smcap">Ask Mamma.</span> By R.S. Surtees. With 13 Coloured Plates and 70 Woodcuts in the Text
+by John Leech. <i>3s. 6d. net.</i><br  />
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Analysis of the Hunting Field.</span> By R.S. Surtees. With 7 Coloured Plates by
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper, <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+This book contains 76 Coloured Plates.<br  />
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i></p><p>
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. <i>30s. net.</i>
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+<b>PLAIN BOOKS</b></p>
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+The illustrations are reproduced in photogravure. Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper, with India proofs and a duplicate set of the plates. <i>15s. net.</i></p>
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+<span class="smcap">Illustrations of the Book of Job</span>. Invented and engraved by
+William Blake, <i>3s. 6d. net.</i><br />
+These famous Illustrations&mdash;21 in number&mdash;are reproduced in photogravure. Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper, with India proofs and a duplicate set of the plates. <i>15s. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+<span class="smcap">&AElig;sop's Fables</span>. With 380 woodcuts by Thomas Bewick. <i>3s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
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+This volume is reproduced from the beautiful edition of John Major of 1824.</p><p>
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+
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+<span class="smcap">Junior English Examination Papers</span>. By W. Williamson, M.A.</p><p>
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+<span class="smcap">Junior Greek Examination Papers</span>. By T.C. Weatherhead, M.A.</p><p>
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+
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+<span class="smcap">A Class-Book of Dictation Passages</span>. By W. Williamson, B.A. <i>Tenth Edition. Cr. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Gospel According to St. Matthew</span>. Edited by E. Wilton South, M.A. With Three Maps. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
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+<span class="smcap">A Junior English Grammar</span>.  By W. Williamson, B.A. With numerous passages for parsing and analysis, and a chapter on Essay Writing. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Junior Chemistry</span>.  By E.A. Tyler, B.A., F.C.S.  With 73 Illustrations.  <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Acts of the Apostles</span>. Edited by A.E. Rubie, D.D. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Junior French Grammar</span>.  By L.A. Sornet and M.J. Acatos. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Elementary Experimental Science. Physics</span> by W.T. Clough, A.R.C.S. <span class="smcap">Chemistry</span> by A.E. Dunstan, B.Sc. With 2 Plates and 154 Diagrams. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Junior Geometry</span>. By Noel S. Lydon. With 230 Diagrams. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
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+*<span class="smcap">Elementary Experimental Chemistry</span>.  By A.E. Dunstan, B.Sc. With many Illustrations. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
+*<span class="smcap">A Junior French Prose</span>. By R.R.N. Baron, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_26" id="Page_1_26">[26]</a></span><span class="smcap">*The Gospel According to St. Luke</span>.  With an Introduction and Notes by William Williamson, B.A. With Three Maps. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p><p class="center">
+<b>Leaders of Religion</b></p><p class="center">
+Edited by H.C. BEECHING, M.A., Canon of Westminster. <i>With Portraits.</i></p>
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 2s. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+A series of short biographies of the most prominent leaders of religious life and thought of all ages and countries.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Cardinal Newman</span>. By R.H. Hutton.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">John Wesley</span>. By J.H. Overton, M.A.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Bishop Wilberforce</span>. By G.W. Daniell, M.A.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Cardinal Manning</span>. By A.W. Hutton, M.A.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Charles Simeon</span>. By H.C.G. Moule, D.D.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">John Keble</span>. By Walter Lock, D.D.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Thomas Chalmers</span>. By Mrs. Oliphant.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Lancelot Andrewes</span>. By R.L. Ottley, D.D. <i>Second</i>
+<i>Edition.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Augustine of Canterbury</span>. By E.L. Cutts, D.D.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">William Laud</span>. By W.H. Hutton, M.A. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">John Knox</span>. By F. MacCunn. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">John Howe</span>. By R.F. Horton, D.D.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Bishop Ken</span>. By F.A. Clarke, M.A.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">George Fox, the Quaker</span>. By T. Hodgkin, D.C.L.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">John Donne</span>. By Augustus Jessopp, D.D.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Thomas Cranmer</span>. By A.J. Mason, D.D.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Bishop Latimer</span>. By R.M. Carlyle and A.J. Carlyle, M.A.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Bishop Butler</span>. By W.A. Spooner, M.A.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Little Blue Books, The</b></p><p class="center">
+General Editor, E.V. LUCAS.</p><p class="center">
+<i>Illustrated. Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+A series of books for children. The aim of the editor is to get entertaining or exciting stories about normal children, the moral of which is implied rather than expressed.</p><p>
+1. <span class="smcap">The Castaways of Meadowbank</span>. By Thomas Cobb.</p><p>
+2. <span class="smcap">The Beechnut Book</span>. By Jacob Abbott. Edited by E.V. Lucas.</p><p>
+3. <span class="smcap">The Air Gun</span>. By T. Hilbert.</p><p>
+4. <span class="smcap">A School Year</span>. By Netta Syrett.</p><p>
+5. <span class="smcap">The Peeles at the Capital</span>. By Roger Ashton.</p><p>
+6. <span class="smcap">The Treasure of Princegate Priory</span>. By T. Cobb.</p><p>
+7. Mrs. <span class="smcap">Barberry's General Shop</span>. By Roger Ashton.</p><p>
+8. <span class="smcap">A Book of Bad Children</span>. By W.T. Webb.</p><p>
+9. <span class="smcap">The Lost Ball</span>. By Thomas Cobb.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Little Books on Art</b></p><p class="center">
+<i>With many Illustrations. Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+A series of monographs in miniature, containing the complete outline of the subject under treatment and rejecting minute details. These books are produced with the greatest care. Each volume consists of about 200 pages, and contains from 30 to 40 illustrations, including a frontispiece in photogravure.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Greek Art</span>. H.B. Walters. <i>Second Ed.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Bookplates</span>. E. Almack.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Reynolds</span>. J. Sime.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Romney</span>. George Paston.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Watts</span>. Miss R.E.D. Sketchley.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Leighton</span>. Alice Corkran.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Velasquez</span>. Wilfrid Wilberforce and A.R. Gilbert.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Greuze and Boucher</span>. Eliza F. Pollard.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Vandyck</span>. M.G. <span class="smcap">Smallwood</span>.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Turner</span>. F. Tyrell-Gill.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">D&uuml;rer</span>. Jessie Allen.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Hoppner</span>. H.P.K. Skipton.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Holbein</span>. Mrs. G. Fortescue.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Burne-Jones</span>. Fortun&eacute;e de Lisle.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Rembrandt</span>. Mrs. E.A. Sharp.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Corot</span>. Alice Pollard and Ethel Birnstingl.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Millet</span>. Netta Peacock.</p><p>
+*<span class="smcap">Raphael</span>. A.R. DRYHURST.</p><p>
+*<span class="smcap">Illuminated MSS</span>. J.W. Bradley.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Little Galleries, The</b></p><p class="center">
+<i>Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+A series of little books containing examples of the best work of the great painters. Each volume contains 20 plates in photogravure, together with a short outline of the life and work of the master to whom the book is devoted.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Reynolds</span>.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Romney</span>.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Hoppner</span>.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Millais</span>.</p><p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_27" id="Page_1_27">[27]</a></span><span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of English Poets</span>.</p><p class="center">
+<b>Little Guides, The</b></p><p class="center">
+<i>Small Pott 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. net.; leather, 3s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Oxford and its Colleges</span>.  By J. Wills, M.A. Illustrated by
+E.H. New. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Cambridge and its Colleges</span>. By A. Hamilton Thompson.
+<i>Second Edition.</i> Illustrated by E.H. New.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Malvern Country</span>. By B.C.A. Windle, D.Sc, F.R.S.
+Illustrated by
+E.H. New.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Shakespeare's Country</span>. By B.C.A. Windle, D.Sc., F.R.S.
+Illustrated by E.H. New.
+<i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Sussex</span>. By F.G. Brabant, M.A. Illustrated by E.H. New.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Westminster Abbey</span>. By G.E. Troutbeck. Illustrated by
+F.D.Bedford.</p><p>
+<i>Norfolk</i>. By W.A. Dutt. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Cornwall</span>. By A.L. Salmon. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.</p><p>
+<i>Brittany</i>. By S. Baring-Gould. Illustrated by J. Wylie.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Hertfordshire</span>. By H.W. Tompkins, F.R.H.S. Illustrated by
+E.H. New.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The English Lakes</span>. By F.G. Brabant, M.A. Illustrated by
+E.H. New.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Kent</span>. By G. Clinch. Illustrated by F.D. Bedford.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span> By C.G. Ellaby. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Isle of Wight</span>. By G. Clinch. Illustrated by F.D.
+Bedford.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Surrey</span>. By F.A.H. Lambert. Illustrated by E.H. New.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Buckinghamshire</span>. By E.S. Roscoe. Illustrated by F.D.
+Bedford.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Suffolk</span>. By W.A. Dutt. Illustrated by J. Wylie.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Derbyshire</span>. By J.C. COX, LL.D., F.S.A. Illustrated by J.C.
+Wall.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The North Riding of Yorkshire</span>. By J.E. Morris. Illustrated
+by R.J.S. Bertram.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Hampshire</span>. By J.C. Cox. Illustrated by M.E. Purser.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Sicily</span>. By F.H. Jackson. With many Illustrations by the
+Author.</p><p>
+*<span class="smcap">Dorset</span>. By Frank R. Heath. Illustrated.</p><p>
+*<span class="smcap">Cheshire</span>. By W.M. Gallichan. Illustrated by Elizabeth
+Hartley.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Little Library, The</b></p><p class="center">
+With Introductions, Notes, and Photogravure Frontispieces.</p><p class="center">
+<i>Small Pott 8vo. Each Volume, cloth, 1s. 6d. net; leather, 2s. 6d. net.</i></p><p>
+A series of small books under the above title, containing some of the famous works
+in English and other literatures, in the domains of fiction, poetry, and belles lettres.
+The series also contains volumes of selections in prose and verse.</p><p>
+The books are edited with the most sympathetic and scholarly care. Each one
+contains an introduction which gives (1) a short biography of the author; (2) a
+critical estimate of the book. Where they are necessary, short notes are added at
+the foot of the page.</p><p>
+Each volume has a photogravure frontispiece, and the books are produced with
+great care.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">English Lyrics, A Little Book of</span>. Anon.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Pride and Prejudice</span>. By Jane Austen. Edited by E.V. Lucas. <i>Two Volumes.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Northanger Abbey</span>. By Jane Austen. Edited by E.V. Lucas.</p><p>
+The Essays of Lord Bacon. Edited by Edward Wright.</p><p>
+The Ingolsby Legends. By R.H. Barham. Edited by J.B. Atlay. <i>Two Volumes.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">A Little Book of English Prose</span>. Edited by Mrs. P.A. Barnett.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The History of the Caliph Vathek</span>. By William Beckford. Edited by E. Denison Ross.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Selections from William Blake</span>. Edited by M. Perugini.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Lavengro</span>. By George Borrow. Edited by F. Hindes Groome. <i>Two Volumes.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Romany Rye</span>. By George Borrow. Edited by John Sampson.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Selections from the Early Poems of Robert Browning</span>. Edited by W. Hall Griffin, M.A.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Selections from the Anti-Jacobin</span>; with George Canning's additional Poems. Edited by Lloyd Sanders.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Essays of Abraham Cowley</span>. Edited by H.C. Minchin.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">Selections from George Crabbe</span>, Edited by A.C. Deane.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">John Halifax Gentleman</span>. By Mrs. Craik. Edited by Annie Matheson. <i>Two Volumes.</i></p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The English Poems of Richard Crawshaw</span>. Edited by Edward Hutton.</p><p>
+<span class="smcap">The Inferno of Dante</span>. Translated by H.F. Cary.  Edited by Paget Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt.</p><p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_28" id="Page_1_28">[28]</a></span><span class="smcap">The Purgatorio of Dante</span>. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget Toynbee, M.A. D.Litt.</p><p>
+THE PARADISO OF DANTE. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt.</p><p>
+SELECTIONS FROM THE POEMS OF GEORGE DARLEY. Edited by R.A. Streatfeild.</p><p>
+A LITTLE BOOK OF LIGHT VERSE. Edited by A.C. Deane.</p><p>
+MARRIAGE. By Susan Ferrier. Edited by Miss Goodrich Freer and Lord Iddesleigh. <i>Two Volumes.</i></p><p>
+THE INHERITANCE. By Susan Ferrier. Edited by Miss Goodrich Freer and Lord Iddesleigh. <i>Two Volumes.</i></p><p>
+CRANFORD. By Mrs. Gaskell. Edited by E.V. Lucas. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+THE SCARLET LETTER. By Nathaniel Hawthorne. Edited by Percy Dearmer.</p><p>
+A LITTLE BOOK OF SCOTTISH VERSE. Edited by T.F. Henderson.</p><p>
+POEMS. By John Keats. With an Introduction by L. Binyon and Notes by J. MASEFIELD.</p><p>
+EOTHEN. By A.W. Kinglake. With an Introduction and Notes. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+ELIA, AND THE LAST ESSAYS OF ELIA. By Charles Lamb. Edited by E.V. Lucas.</p><p>
+LONDON LYRICS. By F. Locker. Edited by A.D. Godley, M.A.
+A reprint of the First Edition.</p><p>
+SELECTIONS FROM LONGFELLOW. Edited by L.M. Faithfull.</p><p>
+THE POEMS OF ANDREW MARVELL. Edited by E. Wright.</p><p>
+THE MINOR POEMS OF JOHN MILTON. Edited by H.C. BEECHING, M.A.</p><p>
+MANSIE WAUCH. By D.M. Moir. Edited by T.F. Henderson.</p><p>
+A LITTLE BOOK OF ENGLISH SONNETS. Edited by J.B.B. Nichols.</p><p>
+THE MAXIMS OF LA ROCHEFOUCAULD. Translated by Dean Stanhope. Edited by G.H. Powell.</p><p>
+REJECTED ADDRESSES. By Horace and James Smith. Edited by A.D. Godley, M.A.</p><p>
+A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY. By Laurence Sterne. Edited by H.W. Paul.</p><p>
+THE EARLY POEMS OF ALFRED, LORD TENNYSON. Edited by J. Churton
+Collins, M.A.</p><p>
+IN MEMORIAM. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by H.C. Beeching, M.A.</p><p>
+THE PRINCESS. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by Elizabeth Wordsworth.</p><p>
+MAUD. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by Elizabeth Wordsworth.</p><p>
+VANITY FAIR. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn. <i>Three Volumes.</i></p><p>
+PENDENNIS. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn. <i>Three Volumes.</i></p><p>
+ESMOND. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn.</p><p>
+CHRISTMAS BOOKS. By W.M. Thackeray. Edited by S. Gwynn.</p><p>
+THE POEMS OF HENRY VAUGHAN. Edited by Edward Hutton.</p><p>
+THE COMPLEAT ANGLER. By Izaak Walton. Edited by J. Buchan.</p><p>
+A LITTLE BOOK OF LIFE AND DEATH. Edited by Mrs. Alfred Waterhouse. <i>Sixth Edition.</i></p><p>
+SELECTIONS FROM WORDSWORTH. Edited by Nowell C. Smith.</p><p>
+LYRICAL BALLADS. By W. Wordsworth and S.T. Coleridge. Edited by George Sampson.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Miniature Library, Methuen's</b></p><p>
+Reprints in miniature of a few interesting books which have qualities of humanity, devotion, or literary genius.</p><p>
+EUPHRANOR: A Dialogue on Youth. By Edward FitzGerald. From the edition published by W. Pickering in 1851. <i>Demy 32mo. Leather, 2s. net.</i></p><p>
+POLONIUS: or Wise Saws and Modern Instances. By Edward FitzGerald. From the edition published by W. Pickering in 1852. <i>Demy 32mo. Leather, 2s. net.</i></p><p>
+THE RUBAIYAT OF OMAR KHAYYAM. By Edward FitzGerald. From the 1st edition of 1859, <i>Third Edition. Leather, 2s. net.</i></p><p>
+THE LIFE OF EDWARD, LORD HERBERT OF CHERBURY.  Written by himself.  From the edition printed at Strawberry Hill in the year 1764. <i>Medium 32mo. Leather, 2s. net.</i></p><p>
+THE VISIONS OF DOM FRANCISCO QUEVEDO VILLEGAS, Knight of the Order of St. James Made English by R.L. From the edition printed for H. Herringman 1668.  <i>Leather. 2s. net.</i></p><p>
+POEMS. By Dora Greenwell. From the edition of 1848. <i>Leather, 2s. net.</i></p><p class="center">
+
+<b>The Oxford Biographies</b></p>
+<p class="center">
+<i>Fcap. 8vo. Each volume, cloth, 2s. 6d. net; leather, 3s. 6d. net.</i></p>
+<p>
+These books are written by scholars of repute, who combine knowledge and literary skill with the power of popular presentation. They are illustrated from authentic material.</p><p>
+DANTE ALIGHIERI. By Paget Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt. With 12 Illustrations. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+SAVONAROLA. By E.L.S. Horsburgh, M.A. With 12 Illustrations. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_29" id="Page_1_29">[29]</a></span>JOHN HOWARD. By E.C.S. Gibson, D.D., Vicar of Leeds. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+TENNYSON. By A.C. BENSON, M.A. With 9 Illustrations.</p><p>
+WALTER RALEIGH. By I.A. Taylor. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+ERASMUS. By E.F.H. Capey. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+THE YOUNG PRETENDER. By C.S. Terry. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+ROBERT BURNS. By T.F. Henderson. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+CHATHAM. By A.S. M'Dowall. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+ST. FRANCIS OF ASSISI. By Anna M. Stoddart. With 16 Illustrations.</p><p>
+CANNING. By W.A. Phillips. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+BEACONSFIELD. By Waller Sichel. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p>
+GOETHE. By H.G. Atkins. With 12 Illustrations.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>School Examination Series</b></p><p class="center">
+Edited by A.M.M. STEDMAN, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+FRENCH EXAMINATION PAPERS. By A.M.M. Stedman, M.A. <i>Thirteenth Edition.</i>
+A KEY, issued to Tutors and Private Students only to be had on application to the Publishers. <i>Fifth Edition, Crown 8vo. 6s. net.</i></p><p>
+LATIN EXAMINATION PAPERS. By A.M.M. Stedman, M.A. <i>Twelfth Edition.</i>
+KEY <i>(Fourth Edition)</i> issued as above. <i>6s. net</i>.</p><p>
+GREEK EXAMINATION PAPERS. By A.M.M. Stedman, M.A. <i>Seventh Edition.</i>
+KEY <i>(Second Edition)</i>issued as above. <i>6s. net</i>.</p><p>
+GERMAN EXAMINATION PAPERS. By R.J. Morich. <i>Fifth Edition.</i>
+KEY <i>(Second Edition)</i>issued as above. <i>6s. net.</i></p><p>
+HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY EXAMINATION PAPERS. By C.H. Spence, M.A. <i>Second Edition.</i></p><p>
+PHYSICS EXAMINATION PAPERS. By R.E. Steel, M.A., F.C.S.</p><p>
+GENERAL KNOWLEDGE EXAMINATION PAPERS. By A.M.M. Stedman, M.A. <i>Fourth Edition.</i>
+KEY <i>(Third Edition)</i>issued as above, <i>7s. net.</i></p><p>
+EXAMINATION PAPERS IN ENGLISH HISTORY. By J. Tait Plowden-Wardlaw, B.A.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Social Questions of To-day</b></p><p class="center">
+Edited by H. DE B. GIBBINS, Litt.D., M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+A series of volumes upon those topics of social, economic, and industrial interest that are foremost in the public mind.</p><p>
+Each volume is written by an author who is an acknowledged authority upon the subject with which he deals.</p><p>
+TRADE UNIONISM&mdash;NEW AND OLD. By G. Howell. <i>Third Edition.</i></p><p>
+THE CO-OPERATIVE MOVEMENT TO-DAY. By G.J. Holyoake. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p><p>
+MUTUAL THRIFT, by J. Frome Wilkinson, M.A.</p><p>
+PROBLEMS OF POVERTY. By J.A. Hobson, M.A. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p><p>
+THE COMMERCE OF NATIONS. By C.F. Bastable, M.A. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+<p>
+THE ALIEN INVASION. By W.H. Wilkins, B.A.</p>
+<p>
+THE RURAL EXODUS. By P. Anderson Graham.</p><p>
+LAND NATIONALIZATION. By Harold Cox, B.A.</p>
+<p>
+A SHORTER WORKING DAY. By H. de Gibbins and R.A. Hatfield.</p>
+<p>
+BACK TO THE LAND. An Inquiry into Rural Depopulation. By H.E. Moore.</p><p>
+TRUSTS, POOLS, AND CORNERS. By J. Stephen Jeans.</p><p>
+THE FACTORY SYSTEM. By R.W. Cooke-Taylor.</p><p>
+THE STATE AND ITS CHILDREN. By Gertrude Tuckwell.</p><p>
+WOMEN'S WORK. By Lady Dilke, Miss Bulley, and Miss Whitley.</p><p>
+SOCIALISM AND MODERN THOUGHT. By M. Kauffmann.</p><p>
+THE PROBLEM OF THE UNEMPLOYED. By J.A. Hobson, M.A.</p><p>
+LIFE IN WEST LONDON. By Arthur Sherwell, M.A. <i>Third Edition.</i></p><p>
+RAILWAY NATIONALIZATION. By Clement Edwards.</p><p>
+WORKHOUSES AND PAUPERISM. By Louisa Twining.</p><p>
+UNIVERSITY AND SOCIAL SETTLEMENTS. By W. Reason, M.A.</p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Technology, Textbooks of</b></p><p class="center">
+Edited by PROFESSOR J. WERTHEIMER, F.I.C.</p><p class="center">
+<i>Fully Illustrated.</i></p><p>
+HOW TO MAKE A DRESS. By J.A.E. Wood. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo.
+1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+CARPENTRY AND JOINERY. By F.C. Webber. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+PRACTICAL MECHANICS. By Sidney H. Wells. <i>Third Edition.  Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_30" id="Page_1_30">[30]</a></span></p><p>
+PRACTICAL PHYSICS. By H. Stroud, D.Sc, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+MILLINERY, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL. By Clare Hill. <i>Second Edition, Crown 8vo. 2s.</i></p><p>
+PRACTICAL CHEMISTRY. Part I. By W. French, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. Third Edition, 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+PRACTICAL CHEMISTRY.  Part II. By W. French, M.A., and T.H. Boardman, M.A. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+TECHNICAL ARITHMETIC AND GEOMETRY. By C.T. Millis, M.I.M.E. <i>Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+AN INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF TEXTILE DESIGN. By Aldred F. Barker. <i>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+BUILDERS' QUANTITIES. By H.C. Grubb. <i>Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+*METAL WORK (REPOUSS&Eacute;). By A.C. Horth. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Theology, Handbooks of</b></p>
+<p class="center">
+Edited by R.L. OTTLEY, D.D., Professor of Pastoral Theology at Oxford,
+and Canon of Christ Church, Oxford.</p><p>
+The series is intended, in part, to furnish the clergy and teachers or students of Theology with trustworthy Textbooks, adequately representing the present position of the questions dealt with; in part, to make accessible to the reading public an accurate and concise statement of facts and principles in all questions bearing on
+Theology and Religion.</p><p>
+THE XXXIX. ARTICLES OF THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND. Edited by E.C.S. Gibbon, D.D.
+<i>Third and Cheaper Edition in one Volume. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+AN INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF RELIGION. By F.B. Jevons, M.A., Litt.D. <i>Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+THE DOCTRINE OF THE INCARNATION. By R.L. Ottley, D.D. <i>Second and Cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+AN INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF THE CREEDS. By A.E. Burn, B.D. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+THE PHILOSOPHY OF RELIGION IN ENGLAND AND AMERICA. By Alfred Caldecott, D.D. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p><p>
+A HISTORY OF EARLY CHRISTIAN DOCTRINE. By J.F. Bethune Baker, M.A. <i>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p><p class="center">
+
+<b>Methuen's Standard Library</b></p><p class="center">
+EDITED BY SIDNEY LEE. <i>In Sixpenny Volumes.</i></p><p>
+MESSRS. METHUEN are preparing a new series of reprints containing both books of classical repute, which are accessible in various forms, and also some rarer books, of which no satisfactory
+edition at a moderate price is in existence. It is their ambition to place the best books of all nations, and particularly of the
+Anglo-Saxon race, within the reach of every reader. All the
+great masters of Poetry, Drama, Fiction, History, Biography, and Philosophy will be represented. Mr. Sidney Lee will be the General Editor of the Library, and he will contribute a Note to each book.</p><p>
+The characteristics of METHUEN'S UNIVERSAL LIBRARY are five:&mdash;</p><p>
+1. SOUNDNESS OF TEXT. A pure and unabridged text is the primary object of the series, and the books will be carefully reprinted under the direction of competent scholars from the best editions. In a series intended for popular use not less than for students, adherence to the old spelling would in many cases leave the matter
+unintelligible to ordinary readers, and, as the appeal of a classic is universal, the spelling has in general been modernised.</p><p>
+2. COMPLETENESS. Where it seems advisable, the complete works of such masters as Milton, Bacon, Ben Jonson and Sir Thomas Browne will be given. These will be issued in separate volumes, so that the reader who does not desire all the works of an author will have the
+opportunity of acquiring a single masterpiece.</p><p>
+3. CHEAPNESS. The books will be well printed on good paper at a price which on the whole is without parallel in the history of publishing. Each volume will contain from 100 to 350 pages, and will be issued in paper covers, Crown 8vo, at Sixpence net. In a few cases a long book will be issued as a Double Volume at One Shilling net.</p><p>
+4. CLEARNESS OF TYPE. The type will be a very legible one.</p><p>
+5. SIMPLICITY. There will be no editorial matter except a short biographical and bibliographical note by Mr. Sidney Lee at the beginning of each volume.</p><p>
+The volumes may also be obtained in cloth at One Shilling net, or in the case of a Double Volume at One and Sixpence net. Thus TOM JONES may be bought in a Double paper volume at One Shilling net, or in one cloth volume at 1s. 6d. net.</p><p>
+The Library will be issued at regular intervals after the publication of the first six books, all of which will be published together. Due notice will be given of succeeding issues. The orders
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_31" id="Page_1_31">[31]</a></span>of publication will be arranged to give as much variety of subject as possible, and the volume
+composing the complete works of an author will be issued at convenient intervals.</p><p>
+These are the early Books, all of which are in the Press.</p>
+<p>
+
+<span class="smcap">The Works of William Shakespeare</span>. In 10 volumes.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Vol</span>. I.&mdash;The Tempest; The Two Gentlemen of Verona; The
+Merry Wives of Windsor;
+Measure for Measure; The Comedy of Errors.<br />
+</span><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Vol</span>. II.&mdash;Much Ado About Nothing; Love's Labour's
+Lost; A Midsummer Nights' Dream;
+The Merchant of Venice; As You Like It.<br />
+</span><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Vol</span>. III.&mdash;The Taming of the Shrew; All's Well that Ends
+Well; Twelfth Night;
+The Winter's Tale.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Pilgrim's Progress</span>. By John Bunyan.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">The Novels of Jane Austen</span>. In 5 volumes.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Vol</span>. I.&mdash;Sense and Sensibility.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The English Works of Francis Bacon, Lord Verulam</span>.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Essays and Counsels and the New Atlantis.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Poems and Plays of Oliver Goldsmith</span>.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">On the Imitation of Christ</span>. By Thomas &agrave; Kempis.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">The Works of Ben Johnson</span>. In about 12 volumes.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Vol</span>. I.&mdash;The Case is Altered; Every Man in His Humour;
+  Every Man out of His Humour.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Prose Works of John Milton.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Vol</span>. I.&mdash;Eikonoklastes and The Tenure of Kings and
+  Magistrates.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Select Works of Edmund Burke</span>.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Reflections on the French Revolution</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. II.&mdash;Speeches on America.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Works of Henry Fielding</span>.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Tom Jones. (Double Volume.)</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. II.&mdash;Amelia. (Double Volume.)</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Poems of Thomas Chatterton</span>. In 2 volumes.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Miscellaneous Poems.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. II.&mdash;The Rowley Poems.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Meditations of Marcus Aurelius</span>. Translated by R. Graves.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire</span>. By Edward Gibbon.
+    In 7 volumes.
+    The Notes have been revised by J.B. Bury, Litt.D.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">The Plays of Christopher Marlowe</span>.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Tamburlane the Great; The Tragical History of Doctor
+  Faustus.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. II.&mdash;The Jew of Malta: Edward the Second; The Massacre at
+      Paris; The Tragedy of
+      Dido.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Natural History and Antiquities of Selborne</span>. By Gilbert White.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">The Complete Angler</span>. In 2 volumes.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;By Izaak Walton.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. II.&mdash;Part 2, by Cotton, and Part 3 by Venables.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Poems of Percy Bysshe Shelley</span>. In 4 volumes.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Alastor; The Daemon of the World; The Revolt of Islam, etc.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Works of Sir Thomas Browne</span>. In 6 volumes.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Religio Medici and Urn Burial.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Poems of John Milton</span>. In 2 volumes.<br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Paradise Lost.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. II.&mdash;Miscellaneous Poems and Paradise Regained.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Humphrey Clinker</span>. By T.G. Smollett.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">Select Works of Sir Thomas More.</span><br />
+  <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">Vol. I.&mdash;Utopia and Poems.</span></p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The Analogy of Religion, Natural and Revealed</span>. By Joseph Butler, D.D.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">On Human Understanding</span>. By John Locke. In 3 volumes.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">The Poems of John Keats</span>. In 2 volumes.</p>
+<p>  <span class="smcap">The Divine Comedy of Dante</span>. The Italian Text edited by Paget Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt.
+                (A Double Volume.)</p>
+<p class="center"><b>Westminster Commentaries, The</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">General Editor, WALTER LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College,
+
+Dean Ireland's Professor of Exegesis in the University of Oxford.</p>
+
+<p>The object of each commentary is primarily exegetical, to interpret
+the author's meaning to the present generation. The editors will not
+deal, except very subordinately, with questions of textual criticism
+or philology; but, taking the English<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_32" id="Page_1_32">[32]</a></span> text in the Revised Version as
+their basis, they will try to combine a hearty acceptance of critical
+principles with loyalty to the Catholic Faith.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Book of Genesis</span>. Edited with Introduction and Notes by
+S.R. Driver, D.D. <i>Fourth Edition Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Book of Job. Edited by E.C.S. Gibson. D.D. </span><i>Second Edition.
+Demy 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Acts of The Apostles</span>. Edited by R.B. Rackham, M.A. <i>Demy
+8vo. Second and Cheaper Edition. 10s. 6d</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The First Epistle of Paul the Apostle to the Corinthians</span>.
+Edited by H.L. Goudge, M.A. <i>Demy 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Epistle of St. James</span>. Edited with Introduction and Notes
+by R.J. Knowling, M.A. <i>Demy 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+
+<h3>PART II.&mdash;FICTION</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Marie Corelli's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS. <i>Twenty-Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>VENDETTA. <i>Twenty-First Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THELMA. <i>Thirty-Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>ARDATH: THE STORY OF A DEAD SELF. <i>Fifteenth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE SOUL OF LILITH. <i>Twelfth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>WORMWOOD. <i>Fourteenth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>BARABBAS: A DREAM OF THE WORLD'S TRAGEDY. <i>Fortieth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'The
+tender reverence of the treatment and the imaginative beauty of the
+writing have reconciled us to the daring of the conception. This
+"Dream of the World's Tragedy" is a lofty and not inadequate
+paraphrase of the supreme climax of the inspired narrative.'&mdash;<i>Dublin
+Review.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE SORROWS OF SATAN. <i>Forty-Eighth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A very powerful piece
+of work.... The conception is magnificent, and is likely to win an
+abiding place within the memory of man.... The author has immense
+command of language, and a limitless audacity.... This interesting and
+remarkable romance will live long after much of the ephemeral
+literature of the day is forgotten.... A literary phenomenon ...
+novel, and even sublime.'&mdash;W.T. STEAD in the <i>Review of Reviews.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE MASTER CHRISTIAN. <i>[165th Thousand.</i> <br />
+  'It cannot be denied that
+"The Master Christian" is a powerful book; that it is one likely to
+raise uncomfortable questions in all but the most self-satisfied
+readers, and that it strikes at the root of the failure of the
+Churches&mdash;the decay of faith&mdash;in a manner which shows the inevitable
+disaster heaping up ... The good Cardinal Bonpr&eacute; is a beautiful figure,
+fit to stand beside the good Bishop in "Les Mis&eacute;rables." It is a book
+with a serious purpose expressed with absolute unconventionality and
+passion ... And this is to say it is a book worth
+reading.'&mdash;<i>Examiner.</i></p>
+
+<p>TEMPORAL POWER: A STUDY IN SUPREMACY. <i>[150th Thousand.</i> <br />
+  'It is
+impossible to read such a work as "Temporal Power" without becoming
+convinced that the story is intended to convey certain criticisms on
+the ways of the world and certain suggestions for the betterment of
+humanity.... If the chief intention of the book was to hold the mirror
+up to shams, injustice, dishonesty, cruelty, and neglect of
+conscience, nothing but praise can be given to that
+intention.'&mdash;<i>Morning Post.</i></p>
+
+<p>GOD'S GOOD MAN: A SIMPLE LOVE STORY. <i>Sixth Edition</i>,</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Anthony Hope's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE GOD IN THE CAR. <i>Tenth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A very remarkable book,
+deserving of critical analysis impossible within our limit; brilliant,
+but not superficial; well considered, but not elaborated; constructed
+with the proverbial art that conceals, but yet allows itself to be
+enjoyed by readers to whom fine literary method is a keen
+pleasure.&mdash;<i>The World.</i></p>
+
+<p>A CHANGE OF AIR, <i>Sixth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A graceful, vivacious comedy, true
+to human nature. The characters are traced with a masterly
+hand.'&mdash;<i>Times.</i></p>
+
+<p>A MAN OF MARK. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'Of all Mr. Hope's books, "A Man of
+Mark" is the one which best compares with "The Prisoner of Zenda."
+'&mdash;<i>National Observer.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_33" id="Page_1_33">[33]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'It is a perfectly
+enchanting story of love and chivalry, and pure romance. The Count is
+the most constant, desperate, and modest and tender of lovers, a
+peerless gentleman, an intrepid fighter, a faithful friend, and a
+magnanimous foe.'&mdash;<i>Guardian.</i></p>
+
+<p>PHROSO. Illustrated by H.R. MILLAR. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'The tale is
+thoroughly fresh, quick with vitality, stirring the blood.'&mdash;<i>St.
+James's Gazette.</i></p>
+
+<p>SIMON DALE. Illustrated. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'There is searching analysis
+of human nature, with a most ingeniously constructed plot. Mr. Hope
+has drawn the contrasts of his women with marvellous subtlety and
+delicacy.'&mdash;<i>Times</i>.</p>
+
+<p>THE KING'S MIRROR. <i>Fourth Edition.<br />
+</i>'In elegance, delicacy, and tact it ranks with the best of his novels,
+while in the wide range of its portraiture and the subtlety of its
+analysis it surpasses all his earlier ventures.'&mdash;<i>Spectator.</i></p>
+
+<p>QUISANTE. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'The book is notable for a very high
+literary quality, and an impress of power and mastery on every
+page.'&mdash;<i>Daily Chronicle.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>W.W. Jacobs' Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>MANY CARGOES. <i>Twenty-Seventh Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>SEA URCHINS. <i>Eleventh Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>A MASTER OF CRAFT. Illustrated. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'Can be unreservedly
+recommended to all who have not lost their appetite for wholesome
+laughter.'&mdash;<i>Spectator.</i><br />'The best humorous book published for many a day.'&mdash;<i>Black and White.</i></p>
+
+<p>LIGHT FREIGHTS. Illustrated. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'His wit and humour are
+perfectly irresistible. Mr. Jacobs writes of skippers, and mates, and
+seamen, and his crew are the jolliest lot that ever sailed.'&mdash;<i>Daily
+News.</i><br />
+
+'Laughter in every page.'&mdash;<i>Daily Mail</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Lucas Malet's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>COLONEL ENDERBY' WIFE. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION. <i>New Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>LITTLE PETER. <i>Second Edition. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE WAGES OF SIN. <i>Fourteenth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE CARISSIMA. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE GATELESS BARRIER. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'In "The Gateless Barrier" it
+is at once evident that, whilst Lucas Malet has preserved her
+birthright of originality, the artistry, the actual writing, is above
+even the high level of the books that were born before.'&mdash;<i>Westminster
+Gazette.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE HISTORY OF SIR RICHARD CALMADY. <i>Seventh Edition.</i> A Limited
+Edition in Two Volumes. <i>Crown 8vo. 12s.<br />
+</i>'A picture finely and amply conceived. In the strength and insight in
+which the story has been conceived, in the wealth of fancy and
+reflection bestowed upon its execution, and in the moving sincerity of
+its pathos throughout, "Sir Richard Calmady" must rank as the great
+novel of a great writer.'&mdash;<i>Literature.<br />
+</i>'The ripest fruit of Lucas Malet's genius. A picture of maternal love
+by turns tender and terrible.'&mdash;<i>Spectator.<br />
+</i>'A remarkably fine book, with a noble motive and a sound
+conclusion.'&mdash;<i>Pilot</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Gilbert Parker's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>PIERRE AND HIS PEOPLE. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'Stories happily conceived and
+finely executed. There is strength and genius in Mr. Parker's
+style.'&mdash;<i>Daily Telegraph.</i></p>
+
+<p>MRS. FALCHION. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A splendid study of
+character.'&mdash;<i>Athen&aelig;um.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE TRANSLATION OF A SAVAGE. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD. Illustrated. <i>Eighth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A rousing and
+dramatic tale. A book like this is a joy inexpressible.'&mdash;<i>Daily
+Chronicle.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_34" id="Page_1_34">[34]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC: The Story of a Lost Napoleon. <i>Fifth
+Edition.</i> <br />
+'Here we find romance&mdash;real, breathing, living romance. The
+character of Valmond is drawn unerringly.'&mdash;<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p>
+
+<p>AN ADVENTURER OF THE NORTH: The Last Adventures of 'Pretty Pierre.'
+<i>Third Edition.</i> <br />
+'The present book is full of fine and moving stories
+of the great North.'&mdash;<i>Glasgow Herald.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE SEATS OF THE MIGHTY. Illustrated. <i>Thirteenth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'Mr.
+Parker has produced a really fine historical novel.'&mdash;<i>Athen&aelig;um.</i><br />
+
+'A great book.'&mdash;<i>Black and White.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG: a Romance of Two Kingdoms. Illustrated.
+<i>Fourth Edition.</i><br />
+'Nothing more vigorous or more human has come from
+Mr. Gilbert Parker than this novel.'&mdash;<i>Literature.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. <i>Second Edition. 3s. 6d.</i> <br />
+  'Unforced
+pathos, and a deeper knowledge of human nature than he has displayed
+before.'&mdash;<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Arthur Morrison's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>TALES OF MEAN STREETS. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A great book. The author's
+method is amazingly effective, and produces a thrilling sense of
+reality. The writer lays upon us a master hand. The book is simply
+appalling and irresistible in its interest. It is humorous also;
+without humour it would not make the mark it is certain to
+make.'&mdash;<i>World.</i></p>
+
+<p>A CHILD OF THE JAGO. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'The book is a
+masterpiece.'&mdash;<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p>
+
+<p>TO LONDON TOWN. <i>Second Edition.</i> <br />
+  'This is the new Mr. Arthur
+Morrison, gracious and tender, sympathetic and human.'&mdash;<i>Daily
+Telegraph.</i></p>
+
+<p>CUNNING MURRELL. <br />
+  'Admirable ... Delightful humorous relief ... a most
+artistic and satisfactory achievement.'&mdash;<i>Spectator.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE HOLE IN THE WALL. <i>Third Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A masterpiece of artistic
+realism. It has a finality of touch that only a master may
+command.'&mdash;<i>Daily Chronicle.<br />
+</i></p>
+
+<p>'An absolute masterpiece, which any novelist might be proud to
+claim.'&mdash;<i>Graphic</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>'"The Hole in the Wall" is a masterly piece of work. His characters
+are drawn with amazing skill. Extraordinary power.'&mdash;<i>Daily
+Telegraph.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Eden Phillpotts' Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>LYING PROPHETS.</p>
+
+<p>CHILDREN OF THE MIST. <i>Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE HUMAN BOY. With a Frontispiece. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <br />
+  'Mr. Phillpotts
+knows exactly what school-boys do, and can lay bare their inmost
+thoughts; likewise he shows an all-pervading sense of
+humour.'&mdash;<i>Academy.</i></p>
+
+<p>SONS OF THE MORNING. <i>Second Edition.</i> <br />
+  'A book of strange power and
+fascination.'&mdash;<i>Morning Post.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE STRIKING HOURS. <i>Second Edition.</i> <br />
+  'Tragedy and comedy, pathos and
+humour, are blended to a nicety in this volume.'&mdash;<i>World.</i><br />
+
+'The whole book is redolent of a fresher and ampler air than breathes
+in the circumscribed life of great towns.'&mdash;<i>Spectator.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE RIVER. <i>Third Edition.</i> <br />
+  '"The River" places Mr. Phillpotts in the
+front rank of living novelists.'&mdash;<i>Punch.</i><br />
+
+'Since "Lorna Doone" we have had nothing so picturesque as this new
+romance.'&mdash;<i>Birmingham Gazette.<br />
+</i>'Mr. Phillpotts's new book is a masterpiece which brings him
+indisputably into the front rank of English novelists.'&mdash;<i>Pall Mall
+Gazette.<br />
+</i>'This great romance of the River Dart. The finest book Mr. Eden
+Phillpotts has written.'&mdash;<i>Morning Post.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE AMERICAN PRISONER. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE SECRET WOMAN. <i>Fourth Edition</i>. </p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_35" id="Page_1_35">[35]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center"><b>S. Baring-Gould's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>ARMINELL. <i>Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>URITH. <i>Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA. <i>Seventh Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>CHEAP JACK ZITA. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>MARGERY OF QUETHER. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE QUEEN OF LOVE. <i>Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>JACQUETTA. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>KITTY ALONE. <i>Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>NO&Eacute;MI. Illustrated. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE BROOM-SQUIRE. Illustrated. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>DARTMOOR IDYLLS.</p>
+
+<p>THE PENNYCOMEQUICKS. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>GUAVAS THE TINNER. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>BLADYS. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>DOMITIA. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>PABO THE PRIEST.</p>
+
+<p>WINIFRED. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE FROBISHERS.</p>
+
+<p>ROYAL GEORGIE. Illustrated.</p>
+
+<p>MISS QUILLET. Illustrated.</p>
+
+<p>LITTLE TU'PENNY. <i>A New Edition. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p>CHRIS OF ALL SORTS.</p>
+
+<p>IN DEWISLAND. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Robert Barr's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS. <i>Third Edition.</i><br />
+  'A book which has abundantly
+satisfied us by its capital humour.'&mdash;<i>Daily Chronicle.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE MUTABLE MANY. <i>Second Edition.</i> <br />
+  'There is much insight in it, and
+much excellent humour.'&mdash;<i>Daily Chronicle.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE VICTORS.</p>
+
+<p>THE COUNTESS TEKLA. <i>Third Edition.</i> <br />
+  'Of these medi&aelig;val romances,
+which are now gaining ground, "The Countess Tekla" is the very best we
+have seen.'&mdash;<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE LADY ELECTRA. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE TEMPESTUOUS PETTICOAT. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>E. Maria Albanesi's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>SUSANNAH AND ONE OTHER. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE BLUNDER OF AN INNOCENT. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>CAPRICIOUS CAROLINE. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>LOVE AND LOUISA. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>PETER, A PARASITE.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>B.M. Croker's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>ANGEL. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. <i>Sixth Edit.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE OLD CANTONMENT.</p>
+
+<p>A STATE SECRET. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>JOHANNA. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE HAPPY VALLEY. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>J.H. Findlater's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE GREEN GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE. <i>Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Mary Findlater's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p>A NARROW WAY. <i>Third Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>OVER THE HILLS.</p>
+
+<p>THE ROSE OF JOY. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Robert Hichens' Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE PROPHET OF BERKELEY SQUARE. <i>Second Edition</i></p>
+
+<p>TONGUES OF CONSCIENCE. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>FELIX. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE WOMAN WITH THE FAN. <i>Fifth Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>BYEWAYS. <i>3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE GARDEN OF ALLAH <i>Seventh Edition.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_36" id="Page_1_36">[36]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Henry James's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE SOFT SIDE. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE BETTER SORT.</p>
+
+<p>THE AMBASSADORS. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE GOLDEN BOWL.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Mary E. Mann's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>OLIVIA'S SUMMER. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>A LOST ESTATE. <i>A New Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE PARISH OF HILBY. <i>A New Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>*THE PARISH NURSE.</p>
+
+<p>GRAN'MA'S JANE.</p>
+
+<p>MRS. PETER HOWARD.</p>
+
+<p>A WINTER'S TALE. <i>A New Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS. <i>A New Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THERE WAS ONCE A PRINCE. Illustrated. <i>3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p>WHEN ARNOLD COMES HOME. Illustrated. <i>3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>W. Pett Ridge's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>LOST PROPERTY. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>ERB. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>A SON OF THE STATE. <i>3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p>A BREAKER OF LAWS. <i>3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p>MRS. GALER'S BUSINESS.</p>
+
+<p>SECRETARY TO BAYNE, M.P. <i>3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Adeline Sergeant's Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 6s. each.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE MASTER OF BEECHWOOD.</p>
+
+<p>BARBARA'S MONEY. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>ANTHEA'S WAY.</p>
+
+<p>THE YELLOW DIAMOND. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>UNDER SUSPICION.</p>
+
+<p>THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME.</p>
+
+<p>THE ENTHUSIAST.</p>
+
+<p>ACCUSED AND ACCUSER. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p>THE PROGRESS OF RACHEL.</p>
+
+<p>THE MYSTERY OF THE MOAT.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+
+<p><b>Albanesi (E. Maria)</b>. See page 35.</p>
+
+<p><b>Anstey</b> (F.), Author of 'Vice Versa.' A BAYARD FROM BENGAL.
+Illustrated by BERNARD PARTRIDGE. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bacheller (Irving)</b>, Author of 'Eben Holden.' DARREL OF THE BLESSED
+ISLES <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bagot (Richard)</b>. A ROMAN MYSTERY. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8 vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Balfour (Andrew)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Baring-Gould (S.)</b>. See page 35 and Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Barlow (Jane)</b>. THE LAND OF THE SHAMROCK. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also
+Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Barr (Robert)</b>. See page 35 and Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Begbie (Harold)</b>. THE ADVENTURES OF SIR JOHN SPARROW. <i>Crown. 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Belloc (Hilaire)</b>. EMMANUEL BURDEN, MERCHANT, with 36 illustrations
+by G.K. CHESTERTON. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Benson (E.F.)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Benson (Margaret)</b>. SUBJECT TO VANITY. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Besant (Sir Walter)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bowles (C. Stewart)</b>. A STRETCH OFF THE LAND. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Bullock (Shan. F.)</b>. THE SQUIREEN. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> THE RED LEAGUERS.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Burton (J. Bloundelle)</b>. THE YEAR ONE: A Page of the French
+Revolution. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE FATE OF VALSEC. <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+A BRANDED NAME. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Capes (Bernard)</b>, Author of 'The Lake of Wine.' THE EXTRAORDINARY
+CONFESSIONS OF DIANA PLEASE. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Chesney (Weatherby)</b>. THE BAPTST RING. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+  THE TRAGEDY
+OF THE GREAT EMERALD. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_37" id="Page_1_37">[37]</a></span><br />
+
+THE MYSTERY OF A BUNGALOW. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Clifford (Hugh)</b>. A FREE LANCE OF TO-DAY. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Clifford (Mrs. W.K.)</b>. See also Shilling Novels and Books for Boys
+and Girls.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cobb (Thomas)</b>. A CHANGE OF FACE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Cobban (J. Maclaren)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Corelli (Marie)</b>. See page 32.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cotes (Mrs. Everard)</b>. See Sara Jeannette Duncan.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cotterell (Constance)</b>. THE VIRGIN AND THE SCALES. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Crane (Stephen)</b> and <b>Barr (Robert)</b>. THE O'RUDDY. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Crockett (S.R.)</b>. Author of 'The Raiders,' etc. LOCHINVAR.
+Illustrated. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE STANDARD BEARER.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Croker (B.M.)</b>. See page 35.</p>
+
+<p><b>Dawson (A.J.)</b>. DANIEL WHYTE. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Doyle (A. Conan)</b>, Author of 'Sherlock Holmes,' 'The White Company,'
+etc. ROUND THE RED LAMP. <i>Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Duncan (Sara Jeannette)</b> (Mrs. Everard Cotes). THOSE DELIGHTFUL
+AMERICANS. Illustrated. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+
+THE POOL IN THE DESERT. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+
+A VOYAGE OF CONSOLATION. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Findlater (J.H.)</b>. See page 35 and Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Findlater (Mary)</b>. See page 35.</p>
+
+<p><b>Fitzpatrick (K.)</b> THE WEANS AT ROWALLAN. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Fitzstephen (Gerald)</b>. MORE KIN THAN KIND. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Fletcher (J.S.)</b>. LUCIAN THE DREAMER. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+
+DAVID MARCH. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Francis (M.E.)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Fraser (Mrs. Hugh)</b>. Author of 'The Stolen Emperor.' <br />
+  THE SLAKING OF THE
+SWORD. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gallon (Tom)</b>, Author of 'Kiddy.' RICKERBY'S FOLLY. <i>Crown 8 vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gerard (Dorothea)</b>, Author of 'Lady Baby.' THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+HOLY MATRIMONY. <i>Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />MADE OF MONEY. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />THE BRIDGE OF LIFE.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gerard (Emily)</b>. THE HERONS' TOWER. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gissing (George)</b>, Author of 'Demos,' 'In the Year of Jubilee,' etc.
+THE TOWN TRAVELLER. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo 6s.</i> <br />
+THE CROWN OF LIFE.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Glanville (Ernest)</b>. THE INCA'S TREASURE. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Gleig (Charles)</b>. BUNTER'S CRUISE. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Goss (C.F.)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Herbertson (Agnes G.)</b>. PATIENCE DEAN. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hichens (Robert)</b>. See page 35.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hobbes (John Oliver)</b>, Author of 'Robert Orange.' THE SERIOUS WOOING.
+<i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hope (Anthony)</b>. See page 32.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hough (Emerson)</b>. THE MISSISSIPPI BUBBLE. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Hyne (C.J. Cutcliffe)</b>, Author of 'Captain Kettle.' MR. HORROCKS,
+PURSER. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Jacobs (W.W.)</b>. See page 33.</p>
+
+<p><b>James (Henry)</b>. See page 36.</p>
+
+<p><b>Janson (Gustaf)</b>. ABRAHAM'S SACRIFICE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Keays (H.A. Mitchell)</b>. HE THAT EATHETH BREAD WITH ME. <i>Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Lawless (Hon. Emily)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Lawson (Harry)</b>, Author of 'When the Billy Boils.' CHILDREN OF THE
+BUSH. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Levett-Yeats (S.)</b>. ORRAIN. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Linden (Annie)</b>. A WOMAN OF SENTIMENT. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Linton (E. Lynn)</b>. THE TRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON, Christian and
+Communist. <i>Twelfth Edition. Medium 8vo. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Long (J. Luther)</b>, Co-Author of 'The Darling of the Gods.' MADAME
+BUTTERFLY. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i><br />
+
+SIXTY JANE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Lyall (Edna)</b>. DERRICK VAUGHAN, NOVELIST. <i>42nd Thousand. Cr. 8vo. 3s
+6d.</i></p>
+<p><b>M'Carthy (Justin H.).</b> Author of 'If I were King.' THE LADY
+OF LOYALTY HOUSE. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />THE DRYAD. <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_38" id="Page_1_38">[38]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Mackie (Pauline Bradford).</b> THE VOICE IN THE DESERT. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Macnaughtan (S.)</b>. THE FORTUNE OF CHRISTINA MACNAB. <i>Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Malet (Lucas)</b>. See page 33.</p>
+
+<p><b>Mann (Mrs. M.E.)</b>. See page 36.</p>
+
+<p><b>Marriott (Charles)</b>, Author of 'The Column.' GENEVRA. <i>Second
+Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Marsh (Richard)</b>. THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i> <br />
+A METAMORPHOSIS. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+GARNERED. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> A
+DUEL. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Mason (A.E.W)</b>, Author of 'The Courtship of Morrice Buckler,'
+'Miranda of the Balcony,' etc. CLEMENTINA. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo.
+Second Edition. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Mathers (Helen)</b>, Author of 'Comin' thro' the Rye.' HONEY. <i>Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Meade (L.T.)</b>. DRIFT. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> RESURGAM. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Meredith (Ellis)</b>. HEART OF MY HEART. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>'Miss Molly'</b> (The Author of). THE GREAT RECONCILER. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Mitford (Bertram)</b>. THE SIGN OF THE SPIDER. Illustrated. <i>Sixth
+Edition Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i><br />
+IN THE WHIRL OF THE RISING. <i>Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE RED DERELICT. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Montresor (F.F.)</b>, Author of 'Into the Highways and Hedges.' THE
+ALIEN. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Morrison (Arthur)</b>. See page 34.</p>
+
+<p><b>Nesbit (E.)</b>. (Mrs. E. Bland). THE RED HOUSE. Illustrated. <i>Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE LITERARY SENSE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Norris (W.E.)</b>. THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY. Illustrated. <i>Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+THE EMBARRASSING ORPHAN. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>
+<br />
+NIGEL'S VOCATION. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+LORD LEONARD THE LUCKLESS. <i>Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+BARHAM OF BELTANA. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Oliphant (Mrs.)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ollivant (Alfred)</b>. OWD BOB, THE GREY DOG OF KENMUIR. <i>Eighth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Oppenheim (E. Phillips)</b>. MASTER OF MEN. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Oxenham (John)</b>, Author of 'Barbe of Grand Bayou.' A WEAVER OF WEBS.
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE GATE OF THE DESERT. <i>Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Pain (Barry)</b>. THREE FANTASIES. <i>Crown 8vo. 1s.</i> LINDLEY KAYS. <i>Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Parker (Gilbert)</b>. See page 33.</p>
+
+<p><b>Pemberton (Max)</b>. THE FOOTSTEPS OF A THRONE. Illustrated. <i>Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+I CROWN THEE KING. With Illustrations by
+Frank Dadd and A. Forrestier. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Penny (Mrs. F.E.)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Phillpotts (Eden)</b>. See page 34, and Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Pickthall (Marmaduke)</b>. SAID THE FISHERMAN. <i>Fifth Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+*BRENDLE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Pryce (Richard)</b>. WINIFRED MOUNT, <i>A New Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>
+'Q,' Author of 'Dead Man's Rock.' <br />
+THE WHITE WOLF. <i>Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Queux (W. le)</b>. THE HUNCHBACK OF WESTMINSTER. <i>Third Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE CLOSED BOOK. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE VALLEY
+OF THE SHADOW. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Rhys (Grace)</b>. THE WOOING OF SHEILA. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>
+  <br />
+THE PRINCE OF LISNOVER. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_39" id="Page_1_39">[39]</a></span>  </p>
+<p><b>Rhys (Grace) and
+  Another.</b> THE DIVERTED VILLAGE. With Illustrates by <span class="smcap">DOROTHY GWYN
+  JEFFREYS.</span> <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+<p><b>Ridge (W. Pett)</b>. See page 36.</p>
+
+<p><b>Ritchie (Mrs. David G.)</b>. THE TRUTHFUL LIAR. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Roberts (C.G.D.)</b>. THE HEART OF THE ANCIENT WOOD. <i>Crown 8vo 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Robertson (Francee Forbes)</b>. THE TAMING OF THE BRUTE. <i>Crown 8vo.
+6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Russell (W. Clark)</b>. MY DANISH SWEETHEART. Illustrated. <i>Fourth
+Edition Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+ABANDONED. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>
+<br />
+HIS ISLAND PRINCESS. Illustrated. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Sergeant (Adeline)</b>. See page 36.</p>
+
+<p><b>Shannon (W.F.)</b>. THE MESS DECK. <i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i> <br />
+  JIM TWELVES.
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Sonnichsen (Albert)</b>. DEEP SEA VAGABONDS. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Stringer (Arthur)</b>. THE SILVER POPPY. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Sutherland (Duchess of)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Swan (Annie)</b>. See Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Tanqueray (Mrs. B.M.)</b>. THE ROYAL QUAKER. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Thompson (Vance)</b>. SPINNERS OF LIFE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Waineman (Paul)</b>. BY A FINNISH LAKE. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+  THE SONG OF THE
+FOREST. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> See also Shilling Novels.</p>
+
+<p><b>Watson (H.B.Marriott)</b>. ALARUMS AND EXCURSIONS. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>
+  <br />
+CAPTAIN FORTUNE. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> </p>
+
+<p><b>Wells (H.G.)</b> THE SEA LADY. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Weyman (Stanley)</b>, Author of 'A Gentleman of France.' UNDER THE RED
+ROBE With Illustrations by R.C. WOODVILLE. <i>Eighteenth Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>White (Stewart E.)</b>. Author of 'The Blazed Trail.' CONJUROR'S HOUSE.
+A Romance of the Free Trail. <i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>White (Percy)</b>. THE SYSTEM. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Williamson (Mrs. C.N.)</b>, Author of 'The Barnstormers.' PAPA. <i>Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i><br />
+THE ADVENTURE OF PRINCESS SYLVIA. <i>Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d.</i> <br />
+THE WOMAN WHO DARED. <i>Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE SEA COULD TELL.
+<i>Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i> <br />
+THE CASTLE OF THE SHADOWS. <i>Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+<p><b>Williamson (C.N. and A.M.)</b>. THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR: Being the
+Romance of a Motor Car. Illustrated. <i>Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i>
+<br />
+THE PRINCESS PASSES. Illustrated. <i>Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Methuen's Shilling Novels</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Cloth, 1s. net.</i></p>
+
+<p>Encouraged by the great and steady sale of their Sixpenny Novels,
+Messrs. Methuen have determined to issue a new series of fiction at a
+low price under the title of 'METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS.' These books
+are well printed and well bound in <i>cloth</i>, and the excellence of
+their quality may be gauged from the names of those authors who
+contribute the early volumes of the series.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Methuen would point out that the books are as good and as long
+as a six shilling novel, that they are bound in cloth and not in
+paper, and that their price is One Shilling <i>net</i>, They feel sure that
+the public will appreciate such good and cheap literature, and the
+books can be seen at all good booksellers. The first volumes are&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><b>Adeline Sergeant.</b> A GREAT LADY.</p>
+
+<p><b>Richard Marsh.</b> MARVELS AND MYSTERIES.</p>
+
+<p><b>Tom Gallon.</b> RICKERBY'S FOLLY.</p>
+
+<p><b>H.B. Marriott-Watson.</b> THE SKIRTS OF HAPPY CHANCE.</p>
+
+<p><b>Bullock (Shan F.)</b>. THE BARRYS. THE CHARMERS.</p>
+
+<p><b>Gissing (George)</b>. THE CROWN OF LIFE.</p>
+
+<p><b>Francis (M.E.)</b>. MISS ERIN.</p>
+
+<p><b>Sutherland (Duchess of)</b>. ONE HOUR AND THE NEXT.</p>
+
+<p><b>Burton (J. Bloundelle)</b>. ACROSS THE SALT SEAS.</p>
+
+<p><b>Oliphant (Mrs.)</b> THE PRODIGALS.</p>
+
+<p><b>Balfour (Andrew)</b>. VENGEANCE IS MINE.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1_40" id="Page_1_40">[40]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><b>Barr (Robert)</b>, Author of 'The Countess Tekla. THE VICTORS.</p>
+
+<p><b>Penny (Mrs. F.A.)</b>. A MIXED MARRIAGE.</p>
+
+<p><b>Hamilton (Lord Ernest)</b>. MARY HAMILTON.</p>
+
+<p><b>Glanville (Ernest)</b>. THE LOST REGIMENT.</p>
+
+<p><b>Benson (E.F.)</b>. Author of 'Dodo.' THE CAPSINA.</p>
+
+<p><b>Goss (C.F.)</b>. THE REDEMPTION OF DAVID CORSON.</p>
+
+<p><b>Findlater (J.H.)</b>. Author of 'The Green Graves of Balgowrie.' A
+DAUGHTER OF STRIFE.</p>
+
+<p><b>Cobban, (J.M.)</b> THE KING OF ANDAMAN.</p>
+
+<p><b>Clifford (Mrs. W.K.)</b>. A WOMAN ALONE.</p>
+
+<p><b>Phillpotts (Eden)</b>. FANCY FREE.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Books for Boys and Girls</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Getting Well of Dorothy.</span> By Mrs. W.K. Clifford.
+Illustrated by Gordon-Browne. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Icelander's Sword.</span> By S. Baring-Gould.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Only a Guard-Room Dog</span>. By Edith E. Cuthell.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Doctor of the Juliet</span>. By Harry Collingwood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Little Peter</span>. By Lucas Malet. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Master Rockafellar's Voyage</span>. By W. Clark Russell.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Secret of Madame de Monluc</span>. By the Author of "Mdlle.
+Mori."</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Syd Belton</span>: Or, the Boy who would not go to Sea. By G.
+Manville Fenn.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Red Grange</span>. By Mrs. Molesworth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">A Girl of the People</span>. By L.T. Meade.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hepsy Gipsy</span>. By L.T. Meade. <i>2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Honourable Miss</span>. By L.T. Meade.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>The Novels of Alexandre Dumas</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Price 6d. Double Volume, 1s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Three Musketeers</span>. With a long Introduction by Andrew
+Lang. Double volume.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Prince of Thieves</span>. <i>Second Edition.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Robin Hood</span>. A Sequel to the above.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Corsican Brothers</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Georges</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Crop-Eared Jacquot; JANE</span>; Etc.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Twenty Years After</span>. Double volume.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Amaury</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Castle of Eppstein</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Snowball, and Sultanetta</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cecile; or, The Wedding Gown</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Act&eacute;</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Black Tulip</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Vicomte de Bragelonne</span>. <br />Part I. Louis de la Valli&egrave;re.
+Double Volume. <br />Part II. The Man in the Iron Mask. Double Volume.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Convict's Son</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Wolf-Leader</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Nanon; or, The Women's War</span>. Double volume.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Pauline; Murat; and Pascal Bruno</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Adventures of Captain Pamphile</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fernande</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gabriel Lambert</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Reminiscences of Antony</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Catherine Blum</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Chevalier D'Harmental</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sylvandire</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Fencing Master</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Conscience</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Regent's Daughter</span>. A Sequel to Chevalier d'Harmental.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>Illustrated Edition.</b></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Three Musketeers</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams,
+<i>2s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Prince of Thieves</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams.
+<i>2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Robin Hood the Outlaw</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams,
+<i>2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Corsican Brothers</span>. Illustrated in Colour by A.M.
+M'Lellan. <i>1s. 6d.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fernande</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Black Tulip</span>. Illustrated in Colour by A. Orr.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Georges</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr. <i>2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Twenty Years After</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams. <i>
+3s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Amaury</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne. <i>2s.</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Snowball</span>, and <span class="smcap">Sultanetta</span>. Illustrated in Colour
+by Frank Adams, <i>2s.</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Vicomte de Bragelonne</span>. Part I. Illustrated in Colour by
+Frank Adams.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Crop-Eared Jacquot; JANE</span>; Etc. Illustrated in Colour by
+Gordon Browne.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Castle of Eppstein</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Stewart Orr.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Act&eacute;</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cecile; or, The Wedding Gown. </span>Illustrated in Colour by D. Murray
+Smith.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Adventures of Captain Pamphile</span>. Illustrated in Colour by
+Frank Adams.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Wolf-Leader</span>. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, <i>1s.
+6d.</i></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by 
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+Gerald Prance
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,12694 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by
+Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Land of the Black Mountain
+       The Adventures of Two Englishmen in  Montenegro
+
+Author: Reginald Wyon
+Gerald Prance
+
+Release Date: January 27, 2006 [EBook #17613]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by University of Michigan Digital Library, 
+Nikola Smolenski, Sankar Viswanathan,
+and Online Distributed Proofreading Team at Distributed
+Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                              THE LAND OF
+                          THE BLACK MOUNTAIN
+
+
+
+                   THE ADVENTURES OF TWO ENGLISHMEN
+                             IN MONTENEGRO
+
+
+
+                                  BY
+
+                    REGINALD WYON AND GERALD PRANCE
+
+
+                     WITH FIFTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+
+
+
+                "SOME GLIMPSING AND NO PERFECT SIGHT"
+
+                                                 CHAUCER
+
+
+
+                         NEW AND CHEAPER ISSUE
+
+
+                             METHUEN & CO.
+                         36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
+                                LONDON
+
+
+
+_First Published March 1903
+New and Cheaper Issue 1905_
+
+
+[Illustration: H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO]
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATED BY KIND PERMISSION
+
+TO
+
+H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS
+OF MONTENEGRO
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+Montenegro's geographical position--Character of the people--Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms--Likeness to the Homeric
+Greeks--The women--Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of
+privacy, police--Goodness of the Prince--The national
+costume--Religion--Hatred of Austria--Russia's friendship
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to the
+present Prince--Fruits of the last campaign--Education--The
+military system--Legal administration--Crime--Government--The
+educated classes
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+The journey to Montenegro--Arrival in Cattaro--Beauty of the
+Bocche, and the drive to the frontier--First impressions of
+Montenegro--Njegusi--The national troubadours--Arrival in
+Cetinje
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The
+barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our
+departure for Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The
+market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside
+hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Moraca--The
+Vizier bridge--Old war-marks--First and last impressions of
+Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in
+Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The
+prison and its inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The
+modern town--The market and the armed buyers--The
+Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin methods of doing
+business
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and business--His part in Montenegrin
+history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The Death
+Dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The
+hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuz--A typical country inn and a
+meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baco, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated
+nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The
+priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+Stephan our servant--Virpazar--The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass--Antivari and Prstan--The beauty of the bay--We are
+delayed by contrary winds--We are rowed to Dulcigno--We
+make the acquaintance of Marko Ivankovic--A story concerning
+him--We shoot together--An episode on a lake--Vaccination--The
+Turkish inhabitants
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer
+much from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass
+the Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious
+troubles--The town and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding,
+Yes and No--We return to Rijeka by steamer--The beauties
+of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's return, when
+the fatted calf is _not_ killed
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+Preparations for our tour in the Brda--We start--Where it is not good
+to be giddy--A trying ride--Our inn--Nocturnal episodes--The journey
+continued--Pleasant surroundings--The Montenegrin _quart
+d'heure_--Arrival in Kolasin--We meet the Governor--Visiting--The Band
+of Good Hope--The Crown Prince's birthday--We are ashamed
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+Montenegro's oldest building--The ride to the Moraca Monastery--A
+perilous bridge and ascent--The Abbot's tale--We inspect the
+Monastery--The health of the King is drunk--The relative merits of
+Boers and Montenegrins--The Abbot makes us presents--We visit a
+peasant's house and a Homeric feast--A feu-de-joie--Departure from
+Kolasin--We are mistaken for doctors again--Raskrsnica
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+A typical mountain hut--Costume of the north-eastern borderers--Supper
+and a song--We go out hunting, and cause excitement--The Feast of
+Honour--We ride to Andrijevica--Andrijevica and our inn--The
+Voivoda--We go to church--Turkish visitors--Alarums
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika--The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story--We arrive at
+Velika--The men of Velika--The menu--Border jurisdiction--A
+shooting-match--The Kom--Pleasant evenings--A young
+philosopher--Sunset
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+We leave Andrijevica--Our additional escort--The arrival at our
+camping-place--In an enemy's country--The story of one Gjolic--Our
+slumbers are disturbed--Sunrise on the Alps--We disappoint our
+escort--"Albanian or Montenegrin?"--A reconnaissance--The Forest of
+Vucipotok--The forbidden land--narrow escape--We arrive at
+Rikavac--Rain damps our ardour--Nocturnal visitors
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+More memorial stones--We get wet again--Unwilling hosts--A fall--The
+Franciscan of Zatrijebac--The ravine of the Zem--Methods of settling
+tribal differences--A change of diet and more pleasant evenings--A
+fatalist--Sunday morning
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Keco's story--The laws
+of vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
+Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
+birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
+costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
+coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
+hermit--A miracle--Niksic--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
+palace--We are disappointed at Niksic
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
+of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
+subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
+of infancy--A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
+a memorable drive--A fervent prayer
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
+consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
+appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical
+lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of
+tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and
+apostrophe
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO        _Frontispiece_
+
+THE GRAF WURMBRAND, IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO
+
+THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO
+
+NJEGUSI
+
+THE GUSLAR
+
+MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY
+
+THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG
+
+THE PRINCE'S PALACE
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF CETINJE
+
+THE FEMALE PRISONERS
+
+THE PRISONERS DANCING
+
+THE VIZIER BRIDGE
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA
+
+THE RIBNICA
+
+THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN
+
+VOIVODA MARKO
+
+SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL
+
+SPUZ
+
+ACHMET UIKO
+
+SOKOL BACO
+
+THE POP OF VRANJINA
+
+AN ALBANIAN GIRL
+
+VIRPAZAR
+
+ANTIVARI OR BAR
+
+MARKO IVANKOVIC
+
+THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA
+
+VACCINATION
+
+BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO
+
+THE CONSULAR QUARTER, SCUTARI
+
+KOLASIN--THE MARKET-PLACE
+
+THE KOLO
+
+A TYPICAL ROAD
+
+THE MORACA MONASTERY
+
+OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA
+
+ANDRIJEVICA
+
+CHURCH PARADE
+
+VELIKA
+
+MORINA
+
+THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA
+
+THE VASOJEYICKI KOM
+
+ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA
+
+THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS
+
+THE PATH THROUGH THE VUCIPOTOK
+
+AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAC
+
+MONTENEGRIN WOMEN
+
+THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG
+
+THE UPPER MONASTERY
+
+THE CHURCH, NIKSIC
+
+THE CHURCH AND THE PALACE
+
+A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE
+
+AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+"What a terrible country!" said a lady tourist to me once in Cetinje,
+"nothing but barren grey rocks; and what poverty! I declare I shan't
+breathe freely till I am out of it again."
+
+This is a common opinion of travellers to Montenegro, and one that is
+spread by them all over Europe. And yet how unjust! A fairly large
+number of tourists take the drive from beautiful little Cattaro up
+that wild mountain-side and through the barren Katunska to Cetinje. A
+few hours later they return the way they came, convinced that they
+have seen Montenegro. A few, very few, prolong the tour to Podgorica
+and Niksic, returning with a still firmer conviction that they have
+penetrated into the very fastnesses of that wonderful little land.
+These chosen few have at least seen that all is not bare and rocky,
+that there are rich green valleys, rushing mountain torrents, and
+pleasant streams.
+
+If they are very observant they will likewise notice that the men of
+these parts are more wildly clad and fiercer-looking than their more
+polished brethren of the "residence." Rifles are carried more
+universally the nearer lies Albania, and in Podgorica itself they will
+have seen--particularly if chance has brought them there on a
+market-day--crowds of savage-looking hill-men, clad in the white serge
+costume of Albania, standing over their handful of field produce with
+loaded rifles; stern men from the borders with seamed faces; sturdy
+plains-men tanned to a mahogany tint by the almost tropical sun of the
+valleys; shepherds in great sheepskins, be it ever so hot; and haughty
+Turks, hodjas, and veiled women, all in a crowded confusion, haggling
+and bartering. Quaint wooden carts drawn by patient oxen, their huge
+clumsy wheels creaking horribly; gypsies with thunderous voices acting
+as town criers; madmen shrieking horribly; blind troubadours droning
+out songs of heroes on their guslars. If the tourist has witnessed and
+understood all this, then he has seen something of Montenegro. But
+beyond those lofty mountains which rise on either side of the carriage
+road, live these same people in their rude villages. There are towns
+far away, unconnected by any road, to reach which the traveller must
+journey wearily by horse and on foot, over boulder-strewn paths, by
+the side of roaring torrents, through the cool depths of primeval
+forests, and over the snow-clad spurs of rugged mountains. There he
+will find men accustomed to face death at any moment, who delight in
+giving hospitality, and who talk of other lands as "the world
+outside." These are the Montenegrins to whom we owe some of the most
+pleasant reminiscences of our lives.
+
+Our book does not describe the whole country, as unfortunately we were
+unable to visit the northern districts and the lofty Durmitor, but we
+certainly saw the more interesting half, namely, the whole of the
+Albanian frontier.
+
+Amongst those hardy borderers we made many warm friends, but it would
+be invidious to mention names amongst so many. We came to the country
+with a single introduction, to Dr. Stefanelli, the companion of many
+of our journeys, and we left at the conclusion of six months with a
+host of friends. Still to two we wish humbly to express our gratitude
+for many acts of, at the time, unknown courtesy, namely, H.R.H. Prince
+Nicolas, and the Metropolitan of Montenegro, Mitrofanban. As a slight
+token of our thanks to, and admiration of, that true father of his
+people, Prince Nicolas, we respectfully dedicate this book to the
+soldier-poet and prince of the Land of the Black Mountain.
+
+Since we finished the story of our travels, I have had the honour of
+speaking long with Prince Nicolas and of seeing him on many occasions;
+for during our first travels in the land we were always strangely
+unlucky in this respect. I then learnt how our progress through
+Montenegro had been watched over, and contingencies provided for,
+which we had taken as a matter of course.
+
+Some, alas! of our friends are now no more. The Governor of Podgorica
+was shot down in broad daylight a short while ago whilst taking his
+midday promenade in which we so often shared. Others, too, have fallen
+on the borders. Friends are easily lost in Montenegro, where a charge
+of powder and a bullet settle differences.
+
+Disagreeable episodes happened to us--they happen everywhere--but
+these we have rightly or wrongly omitted. The good that we experienced
+certainly outweighed the bad, and that shall be our reason for so
+doing.
+
+And again, throughout the book we have given our _first_ impressions,
+much of it was written during our actual progress through the land. It
+may be that our feelings will thus be more interesting than a
+cut-and-dried treatise of the land and its inhabitants.
+
+In conclusion, it will not be amiss to add an explanation of the Serb
+names which appear throughout the book in the original spelling. The
+names have often an unpronounceable appearance, and look harsh and
+forbidding. This is far from the case, for the Serb language is
+full-toned and musical.
+
+In common with the Slav languages it has a sixth vowel, viz.
+"r"--hence such words as "Srb" (Serb), "trg" (place or square), and
+"Trst" (Triest). It is only necessary to roll the "r" to overcome this
+seeming anomaly of a collection of consonants. The language is spoken
+exactly as it is written, as for instance Italian, but the consonants
+s, c, and z vary according to their accents.
+
+"s" is our sharp s; but with inverted circumflex
+
+"s" it becomes "ssh," as in "show."
+
+"c" is pronounced "tz": thus Cetinje is spoken Tzetinje; Podgorica as
+Podgoritza.
+
+"c" and "c" are accentuated "tsch": as Petrovic, Petrovitsch; Moraca,
+Moratcha.
+
+"z" is soft, as "s" in "rose."
+
+"z" is sounded like the French "j" in "journal."
+
+"dz" is sounded like the "j" in "James."
+
+"nj" is sounded like the "gn" in French "campagne": Tzetigne
+(Cetinje), and so on.
+
+We are fully aware of many shortcomings, and for these we crave
+pardon, but if we benefit little Montenegro by the publication of our
+work, then we shall not have written it in vain.
+
+England has once before proved the friend of Montenegro; the fighting
+instincts of that brave race, their love of freedom, and the
+possession of their most glorious of histories appeal to all of us.
+
+I fear there are troublous times ahead for that gallant little nation,
+perhaps another bitter disappointment is in store for them, when they
+will need a friend.
+
+Times have changed now, personal valour avails but little against
+overwhelming armies and modern artillery.
+
+"We little nations must beseech the Almighty to give us peace," said
+Prince Nicolas to me not so very long ago.
+
+May it be His will!
+
+R.W.
+
+VIENNA, _February, 1903_
+
+
+
+
+THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+Montenegro's geographical position--Character of the people--Their
+honesty, patriotism, and love of arms--Likeness to the Homeric
+Greeks--The women--Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of
+privacy, police--Goodness of the Prince--The national
+costume--Religion--Hatred of Austria--Russia's friendship.
+
+
+Roughly Montenegro is diamond-shaped, with its points towards north
+and south, east and west. To the north-east it is bounded by the
+Sandjak of Novipazar, held by Turkey and Austria jointly, and dividing
+it from its parent country, the kingdom of Servia. To the south-east
+lies Albania, while Austria again borders Montenegro in Bosnia and the
+Hercegovina in the north-west and in Dalmatia to the south-west.
+Dalmatia and a narrow strip of the Adria complete the circuit, so
+Austria practically surrounds Montenegro on three sides.
+
+The land may be said to possess three distinct belts of vegetation,
+each of an entirely different character. It is divided from north to
+south by the River Zeta, and the low-lying plains are fertile and
+rich, and this district also comprises the sea coast. To the west is
+the Katunska or "Shepherds' huts," those barren and rocky mountains of
+old Montenegro, from which the country derives its name; while to the
+east lies the Brda, mountains vying with Switzerland in beauty, rich
+grazing grounds and densely-wooded hills abounding with game, and the
+streams well stocked with fish.
+
+The plains are the granaries of Montenegro, unfortunately too limited
+in area to give an abundance, but there is a mine of wealth in the
+Brda, when that part shall be opened up by connecting roads. The vast
+primeval forests and mineral products will be an important source of
+income in the times to come. Even at the present day the district
+constitutes the chief source of revenue from the export of cattle,
+sheep, and horses which flourish on the magnificent mountain
+pasturages. Montenegrin wool, greatly famed, comes too from the Brda.
+
+It is chiefly in the Katunska, the cradle of the Montenegrin nation,
+that the most interesting geological formations are to be found, and
+in these formations lay its former strength. The most prominent
+features of the Karst region are imperfect valleys which have no
+outlet. As a consequence of this, the water cannot escape by an
+overground bed, so it forces itself through the porous surface to
+reappear in a lower valley, undermining the subsoil, which in time
+collapses, and forms the oases of this otherwise barren land. The
+rain washes down the little earth that there is on the hillside, the
+chemical action of the limestone oxidises the same, and the so-called
+"terra rossa" is formed in these depressions, sufficient to give
+nourishment to the trees and bushes which grow there. The frugal
+peasant cultivates these tiny patches of earth and derives enough
+crops to subsist on, the goats and cattle living on the bushes and
+smaller trees.
+
+In olden times the little nation found barely enough substance for
+themselves, consisting as they did of but a few thousand, but an
+invading army starved. It was in truth a land "where a small army is
+beaten, a large one dies of hunger."
+
+The character of the people has been formed by their surroundings.
+Hardy and frugal, capable of subsisting on the smallest amount of
+nourishment, lithe and active, and open and fearless as their native
+mountains.
+
+Their food consists of a piece of maize bread at daybreak, and they
+eat nothing again till sunset, when bread and a little milk form their
+evening meal. Meat is eaten but rarely, and then they feast. The
+athletic feat of crossing rock-strewn surfaces, bounding from rock to
+rock at a great pace, rivalling their goats in sure-footedness at dizzy
+and precipitous heights, has lent their gait that perfect grace of
+motion which characterises the mountaineer, and in particular the
+Montenegrin. The danger in which they have perpetually lived,
+accustomed to look death in the face at any moment, has stamped upon
+them that open and fearless look which most forcibly strikes the
+stranger.
+
+Their blood is of the purest and noblest in the Balkans, for they are
+largely descended from the noble families of the old Servian Empire
+who fled to the Katunska after the bloody field of Kossovo, which
+destroyed the might of the Serbs for ever. It is probably from these
+ancestors that their noble bearing and perfect manners, in even
+strange and unaccustomed surroundings, are derived. Their notion of
+honour is of the highest, and thieving and robbery are practically
+unknown.
+
+Prince Nicolas, like King Alfred, trusts his subjects in this matter
+of thieving implicitly. Should a man drop a case of banknotes on the
+road, the law says that the finder shall pick it up and place it on
+the nearest stone, so that the loser has but to retrace his steps,
+glancing at the wayside stones. This law is invariably followed.
+
+The Montenegrins are still an armed nation, and the following proverbs
+illustrate their love of weapons. One says, "A man without arms is a
+man without freedom"; the other says, "Thou mayest as well take away
+my brother as my rifle."
+
+Their patriotism and unswerving loyalty to the reigning Prince have
+ever been their most brilliant virtues.
+
+The famous traveller Kohl has likened the Montenegrins to the ancient
+Greeks of Homeric times, and the comparison holds good to this day.
+
+"Love of freedom and pride of weapons, simplicity of life--remember
+the love of mutton and wine, as described by Homer--hospitality, the
+superiority of man over woman, all these features, together with the
+fact that the heroes are themselves the singers of their deeds," says
+Kohl, "are to be found in the Montenegrins, as well as in the Greeks
+of Homer."
+
+Woman takes a very inferior position in Montenegro. She is respected
+in a sense, and her position has improved greatly in recent times,
+chiefly owing to the example set by the Prince himself. At the
+official reception held on New Year's Day, when the humblest peasant
+can go to Cetinje and kiss the Prince's hand, Prince Nicolas places
+his wife to his right, and every man must first kiss her hand. Thus in
+the highest classes woman takes very nearly the same place as in
+civilised lands, but as the social scale descends, so does the
+position of woman.
+
+In the lowest classes she is still not much more than a beast of
+burden, given to man to ease his lot. She carries heavy burdens to
+market, while her lord rides; she may not walk at his side, but a few
+paces to the rear; neither may she sit at table in the presence of
+strange men. The kiss with which men salute each other is not allowed
+to her, and she must kiss the hand only of the man. Likewise, she must
+rise to her feet when men pass by, and in some districts, should she
+meet a man on the way, she must stop and remain standing meekly at the
+side of the path; also, she must leave the room backwards. Neither of
+these last-mentioned customs is universal, but are to be found largely
+in the Brda.
+
+The men are handsome and often of immense stature. Giants of 6 feet 8
+inches are by no means uncommon; in fact, a few such men will be seen
+in every town. The average height is quite 5 feet 10 or 11 inches,
+broad-shouldered and deep-chested, with pleasant faces.
+
+The women are often strikingly beautiful, especially when young, but
+hard work ages them very quickly; in the upper classes, however,
+middle-aged and elderly women of regal appearance can often be seen.
+It is the manners of such women and universally of the men which comes
+as the greatest surprise, when it is remembered that none or very few
+have ever seen anything of the outside world.
+
+The faults of the nation are inordinate vanity in their appearance,
+causing them to impoverish themselves for the sake of gorgeous
+clothes, and gambling. They gamble to an excessive degree, heaping
+debt after debt upon their heads. Both these vices have caused an
+active legislation. Gold embroidery has been abolished on the uniforms
+of the army officers, and Prince Danilo has already declared that on
+coming to the throne he will abolish the national costume altogether,
+_i.e._ amongst the officials and the upper classes.
+
+They love money and will do a good deal to get it, but when they have
+money, they spend it in a reckless and freehanded manner. Thus they
+will overcharge a stranger in an exorbitant fashion, thinking, in
+their simple minds, that travellers are possessed of unlimited means.
+Tourists are largely to blame for this, and pay, without audible
+comment, what is asked. If a strong remonstrance is made, the charge
+will be reduced in most cases. The dawn of civilisation has brought
+the love of money, the frugal Montenegrins are now awakening to what
+money will procure them, and they take as much as they can get without
+thought, and without swindling intentions. Perhaps the lack of banks
+or any institute where money can be saved up, may account for this.
+Merchants buy houses or increase their stock. The peasant, as often as
+not, gambles it away or buys fine clothes, a few thrifty ones
+purchasing an extra cow.
+
+No doubt the influence of civilisation, and in particular the
+long-delayed prosperity of the land which is now slowly raising its
+head, will alter this.
+
+They very rarely quarrel, never brawl, and are hardly ever to be seen
+in a state of intoxication.
+
+On the other hand, they are merry, convivial, boon companions, and are
+never happier than when dancing, singing their war songs and love
+romances, or listening to the "guslar"--the national troubadour.
+
+The characteristic bravery is still manifested in reckless deeds of
+"derring do" on the Albanian borders. Shepherds will deliberately
+drive their flocks across the frontier, thereby courting instant
+death. Many instances have been given illustrating their love of
+danger.
+
+Privacy of dwellings is non-existent. Men walk in and out, seating
+themselves in the room and talking. In the evening the men will
+congregate, stand and squat in a large ring, and solemnly discuss the
+events of the day, or in towns will walk majestically up and down the
+main street swinging the graceful "struka" or shawl from their
+shoulders. Likewise, the drinking-houses are used as common
+meeting-places, and there is no need to order refreshment.
+
+Marriages, baptisms, deaths are occasions for great feasting, when the
+national sheep is killed and roasted whole, and wine and spirits
+consumed in appalling quantities, without however affecting the heads
+of these iron people.
+
+To keep order, there is a ridiculously small force of police or
+gendarmes, and their object is more to preserve the peace in places
+where different races meet, animated with fanatical hatred of each
+other. But during the whole time of our sojourn in Montenegro, we
+never witnessed a single case of men arrested for petty offences, or
+for breaking the peace by common brawling or drunkenness. The only
+cases that we did see were connected with the vendetta, which still
+flourishes. In the course of our travels in the land we have
+sufficiently illustrated this lamentable feature that no further
+comments are necessary.
+
+Prince Nicolas is said to know the name of every one of his subjects,
+and will accost him by it. This is doubtless a great exaggeration, and
+probably means that he knows personally all those who fought under him
+in the last war, when the nation was considerably smaller than it is
+now.
+
+No man is too humble but that the Prince will stop and speak to him,
+and ask him how the world is using him. The man rarely goes
+empty-handed away. In these latter days the Prince is not so
+open-handed as formerly, neither does he make so free with his
+presence, but still it is no difficult thing for any of his subjects
+to obtain an audience. He will stop a man at haphazard on the road
+and examine his weapons, and woe betide him if his revolver is carried
+empty. Every chamber but one must be loaded.
+
+A characteristic instance of the Prince's observancy was once given in
+Cetinje. An incongruous habit is creeping into the country of carrying
+a huge cotton umbrella in the great heat. The Prince met a man
+carrying one open, and promptly broke it over his head, saying--
+
+"Art thou a hero, to carry a woman's sunshade?"
+
+For even to-day the youngest man will maintain that he is a "hero" by
+right of ancestry, and has no doubt of his capability to act up to the
+traditions of his country in the event of war.
+
+The national costume is worn by all, and in the richer classes is very
+gorgeous. The combination of colour is in exquisite taste. There are
+many variations, but a description of the gala uniform will suffice.
+
+The cap, or "kapa," is the same for Prince and peasant. It is red with
+a deep black border, which only leaves a small crown of the foundation
+colour. On this crown in one corner are the letters "H.I." (in Latin
+characters "N.I." or Nicolas 1st) and five semicircles in gold. The
+explanations as to the meanings are slightly different. Both say the
+black border is symbolic of mourning for the losses at Kossovo, while
+the five lines are explained either as signifying the five centuries
+which have elapsed since that terrible battle or as symbolic of a
+rainbow--the sign of hope that one day the glories of the old Serb
+empire will be restored. The red crown signifies "the field of blood,"
+as the Hebrews have it. Furthermore, the different insignia of rank
+are worn on the rim of the cap, from the double eagle and lion of the
+senator in brass, the different combinations of crossed swords of the
+officer, to the simple star of lead of the corporal.
+
+The costume consists of a "dzamadan," a red waistcoat, embroidered
+with gold or black silk--the former on gala occasions--over which the
+"gunj" is worn, a long, white or very pale blue coat, cut so that the
+breast is left open and free. Another sleeveless jacket is worn,
+again, over the gunj, called the "jelek," and is a mass of heavy gold
+and silk embroidery, quite stiff in fact, and a marvel of beautiful
+tracing and patterns.
+
+Round the waist are three separate belts, the first a common belt,
+then the leather "kolan" for the support of the weapons, and over all
+a silk sash, the "pas," sometimes twenty yards long, wound round and
+round many times and of brilliant colours.
+
+Below, knee-breeches of dark blue material and voluminous proportions,
+called "gace," bordered round the pockets with gold-work, and high,
+patent-leather boots. This latter is merely modern dandyism; the still
+invariably worn "dokoljenice" are white gaiters, fastened at the back
+with hooks and eyes, which reach to the "opanki"--shoes made of a flat
+leather sole, bound over with a thick network of whipcord.
+
+The ordinary costume of the better classes for everyday wear (and this
+is the uniform of the officers) is a short red jacket, embroidered
+like the waistcoat in black silk, with sleeves carried either hussar
+fashion, hanging behind, or over the sleeves of the waistcoat.
+
+Then there are green gunj and even dark blue. The peasant wears
+usually a coarse white serge gunj for every day and an ordinary shirt.
+
+In the mountain districts and borderlands of the Brda the Albanian
+costume of tight-fitting white serge trousers, bordered with black
+braid, is largely worn.
+
+The women wear a somewhat modified array of colour. The girls wear the
+kapa, without the letters or rainbow; the married women a lace
+mantilla over their shoulders. The hair is worn, in the case of the
+married women, in a heavy crown-like plait.
+
+A white, slightly embroidered bodice, silver girdle, and silk skirt,
+over which is worn a similar open coat to the gunj. And again over
+this comes the "jecerma," a jacket of red, blue, or violet velvet,
+according to the age of the woman.
+
+The effect in both men and women is tasteful and picturesque in the
+extreme.
+
+The struka, or shawl, is greatly worn by men, and the sweeping,
+swinging effect is most pleasing. It is a shawl of sufficient length
+that when folded to a narrow width and worn over the shoulders the
+tassels just touch the ground.
+
+Some of the poorest peasants wear huge sheepskin jackets, even in hot
+weather.
+
+At the head of the Greek Orthodox Church, which is the religion of the
+land, is an Archbishop, or "Vladika." Hardly more than half a century
+ago, the Vladika was Prince and Bishop in one. To-day the Vladika is
+absolute spiritual head of the Church in Montenegro, and only in
+matters pertaining to divorce are his rulings reversible by the
+Prince.
+
+The hatred of the Roman Catholic religion is most marked. The term
+"Catholic" is an epithet of opprobrium. Hence the hatred of Albania,
+which on the borders is entirely Roman Catholic. The hated Catholics
+also, in the shape of Austria, hem in Montenegro on three sides, and
+this factor, added to the unfriendly part that Austria played at the
+Berlin Congress, may account for the growing animosity which is now
+slowly making itself manifest against her in Montenegro. Turkey is no
+longer feared; in fact, friendly relations are cultivated and steadily
+increasing; but against Austria very different feelings are held.
+Austria holds the Bocche de Cattaro, which the Montenegrins took
+possession of in the Napoleonic wars, commands Antivari, and has edged
+herself in between the kingdom of Servia and Montenegro in the
+Sandjak of Novipazar. The inhabitants of the Bocche and a large part
+of the population of Bosnia and the Hercegovina look to the Prince of
+Montenegro as their lawful ruler.
+
+It is the oft and open stated dream of Prince Nicolas to see the great
+Serb-speaking nations re-united, and much as Russia has helped and is
+fostering this wish, Austria relentlessly checkmates every move in
+this direction. Austria is even striving to gain influence in Albania
+through the means of the Roman Catholic priests, who are said to be
+largely in her pay.
+
+Thus Austria, surrounding Montenegro as she does at present, and
+enlisting the sympathies of the Albanians, can command every inlet to
+that brave little country. A "Schwab," as every German-speaking
+foreigner is termed, is consequently viewed with no friendly eyes;
+while the Russian is welcomed openly as a friend.
+
+Russia, however, can never hope to buy the allegiance of the
+Montenegrins; for while appreciating friendly assistance, the faintest
+attempt to obtain undue influence of power would be sharply resented.
+
+Montenegro will yield her absolute independence to none.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to
+the present Prince--Fruits of the last campaign--Education--The
+military system--Legal administration--Crime--Government--The educated
+classes.
+
+
+The district which corresponds most nearly to Montenegro of the
+present day comes first into notice when the Romans attacked Queen
+Teuta and drove her back beyond the modern Podgorica in the third
+century B.C. From this time onwards Roman influence made
+itself felt strongly in the Praevalitana, an outlying province of
+Illyria, and the city of Dioclea--whose ruins still exist in the
+neighbourhood of Podgorica, and which was to play such an important
+part in the germ state of Crnagora, or the "Land of the Black
+Mountain"--rose into being. Diocletian, the famous divider of the
+Roman Empire, was born there, and the city became the capital of the
+district to which it gave the name. The triumvirs placed the
+border-line of the Eastern and Western divisions at Skodra, or
+Scutari, as the Europeans call it. Under the early empire, the land
+was perpetually changing from East to West, but when the Western
+division fell under the weight of barbarian invasions Uin 476 A.D.,
+it was finally incorporated in the East. This was a momentous
+decision, for the manners and habits of the people still remain tinged
+with Eastern life, and in the ninth century it secured their adhesion
+to the Eastern Church, which influences their policy to the present
+time. The principality of Dioclea, or Zeta, as it soon became called,
+was one of the confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius in 622
+A.D., to act as a buffer state against the inroads of the Avars. Each
+state was ruled by a Zupan or Prince who owed allegiance to the Grand
+Zupan, the head of the heptarchy. But the confederation was very
+loose, the rival chieftains fighting amongst one another for the
+supremacy, for the Serb race has ever been noted for its lack of unity
+and corresponding love of freedom. The famous Bulgarian Czar Samuel,
+_circa_ 980, who had overrun the rest of the Serb states, and made for
+himself a great empire, found that he was powerless to conquer the
+warlike John Vladimir of the Zeta; and again, nearly a century later,
+in 1050, we find the Zeta Zupa so powerful that their Prince assumes
+the title of King of Servia, and is confirmed in his right by Gregory
+VII., the famous Pope Hildebrand. Dissensions then broke out again,
+and for the next hundred years the land owned the sway of the Greek
+Empire. The two most celebrated Serb kings--Stefan Nemanja (1143) and
+Stefan Dusan (1336-1356)--both ascended to the head of the
+confederation from the principality of the Zeta. The latter raised the
+Serb kingdom to its zenith, and formed an ephemeral empire which bears
+many a resemblance to that of Napoleon. Montenegro had all this time
+been steadily growing, and on the accession of Dusan to Servia, the
+district of the Zeta fell to the Balsic, who proved themselves to be a
+strong and competent race of rulers. They increased their territories
+to such an extent that, at the time of the battle of Kossovo, they
+could boast to ruling over all the land from Ragusa to the mouth of
+the Drin, including the present West Montenegro and Southern
+Hercegovina, with Skodra as the capital. After the overthrow of the
+great Servian Empire on the field of Kossovo, Montenegro became
+entirely independent of outside suzerainty, and from the year 1389 to
+the present day, is the only Balkan state which has successfully
+defied the invasions of the Turk. The Balsic engaged themselves in
+several fruitless wars with Venice, by which they lost Skodra, so
+that, when their line died out and the succession fell to Stefan
+Crnoievic (the name Crnoievic, Black Prince, is supposed by some to be
+the origin of the name Crnagora or Black Mountain), a new capital must
+perforce be built, at the northern end of the lake, called Zabljak.
+Stefan Crnoievic allied himself with Skenderbeg, the King of Albania,
+and within twelve years is said to have fought over fifty battles
+with the Turks who, in their impotent rage, poured army after army
+into the land, but entirely failed to break the courage of this brave
+little people. His people gave him the title of Voivoda of the Zeta,
+but the limits of his principality seem to have been very undefined.
+The position of his son Ivan was, however, of greater danger, for in
+1444 the kingdom of Hungary had fallen before the Turk, and they
+captured Constantinople nine years later; after this Servia, Bosnia,
+Albania (on the death of Skenderbeg), and Hercegovina were overrun in
+quick succession. In 1484 Ivan found himself obliged to burn his
+capital of Zabljak, and retire into the more inaccessible mountain
+fastnesses of the Katunska, the district round Cetinje. Cetinje itself
+was chosen by Ivan as his new centre, and though hardly pressed, he
+inflicted many severe defeats upon the Turks. Arrived in his new
+capital, he called his braves together, and told them that if they
+would surrender to the foe, they must find a new Prince, for, as for
+himself, he preferred death. So this little band of warriors, and they
+could not have numbered more than eight thousand fighting men, swore
+to resist this almighty foe to death--not to attack, but to resist. It
+must have been an impressive scene, this compact between Prince and
+people, and later history bears out fully how nobly the descendants of
+these mountain warriors have kept to their oath. For they, alone, of
+all the Balkan states, have successfully repulsed the Turk, who,
+though often seemingly victorious, has returned home with shattered
+armies and full of impotent rage.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF MONTENEGRO.]
+
+In their need they applied to Venice for help, quoting the great
+assistance that they were rendering her in occupying the Turks; but
+the Queen of Cities, who was at that moment occupied in patching up a
+treaty with the Sultan, turned a deaf ear to their entreaties.
+Montenegro found then, for the first time--and all through her history
+she was destined to find the same--that she must fight her battles
+alone. Allies have used her always for their own ends and then
+shamefully deserted her. Yet all through the spirit of indomitable
+courage has never deserted the children of Crnagora, for they could
+never forget the oath which their forefathers had sworn for them.
+
+Ivan, after several great victories, was left to end his days in
+peace. He spent his years well in strengthening the land, both in the
+arts of war and peace. In Obod, which is close to Rijeka, he erected a
+printing press, some twenty years after Caxton had set up his in
+Westminster, and though it was afterwards burnt by the Turks, still
+the remembrance of it remains right glorious in Montenegrin memory.
+
+The last Crnoievic relinquished his home for Venice. He had married a
+Venetian wife, who, among the bleak mountains of the Katunska, was
+pining for the sun and warmth of her native city. But before leaving
+he laid down the lines for a powerful regime. A Prince-Bishop, or
+Vladika, was placed at the head of affairs, but, to help him in his
+difficult task, there was created a second office, that of Civil
+Governor, who was to hold a subordinate position. This office was
+abolished in 1832 by Peter II., on the treachery of the Civil Governor
+Radonic, who was found to have intrigued with the Austrians.
+
+From 1616 to 1696 the Vladikas were elective, and under their
+quarrelsome rule Cetinje was twice burnt and phoenix-like rose again
+from its ashes. The Turkish armies, though partially victorious,
+usually met with disaster and ruin before reaching their own territory
+again; and we read of one notable occasion when Soliman Pasha, with an
+army of 80,000 men, had sacked Cetinje. On his way home he was
+surprised by the two tribes of Kuc and Klementi, and annihilated. But
+as time went on it became necessary from political reasons to change
+the system of government from election to heredity, and the choice
+fell on the Lord of Njegusi Danilo Petrovic, whose reign (1696-1735)
+is chiefly memorable for the Montenegrin vespers of the Turks and
+Turkish renegades, who had rendered so much assistance to Kiuprili
+Pasha in one of his terrible invasions. But a crushing defeat of the
+Turks in 1706 gave the land peace for thirty years.
+
+In 1767 an adventurer named Stefan Mali sprang himself upon the land.
+He claimed to be the murdered Peter III. of Russia, and easily imposed
+himself upon the gullible Montenegrin. But he had the interests of
+Montenegro sincerely at heart, and proved an excellent ruler. His
+imposture was exposed by Catherine II., but owing to the weakness of
+the Petrovic heir, the people determined to keep him as their ruler.
+He fell a victim to the assassin's knife at the instigation of the
+Pasha of Scutari. His successor, Peter Petrovic, the famous St. Peter
+of Montenegrin history, was a firm and courageous ruler, who made his
+influence felt throughout the courts of Europe. Austria, Russia, and
+England did not scruple to avail themselves of his help and then, as
+seems to be the Montenegrin fate, left him in the lurch. He defied the
+armies of the great Napoleon, who came to fear him and his warlike
+clan insomuch that he was even offered terms of friendship. But the
+proud mountaineer would have none of it. He now turned his hand, under
+the influence of Russia, which was then very real, to the
+consolidation of the land, and slept in peace with his fathers.
+
+His successor, Peter II., carried on the struggle with the Turks, who
+proposed an increase of territory and a Turkish title in return for
+the acknowledgment of suzerainty. "As long as my people defend me,"
+was the proud answer, "I need no Turkish title to my throne; if they
+desert me, such a title would avail me little." War was the effect of
+this retort, but the Turks gained nothing by it, and peace was soon
+made.
+
+The danger of the power of Austria came now to be fully recognised.
+After the Napoleonic wars, Austria had retained Cattaro and Spizza,
+and trouble now broke out over some land near Budua. The Montenegrins
+fell upon the Austrians, and fierce conflicts ensued, but Peter, who
+had gained an extraordinary hold over his subjects, forbade them to
+continue. Hostilities, however, continued in a desultory fashion for
+some time.
+
+Peter was followed by Danilo II., a weak ruler, but his reign is
+famous for two events--the cession of the spiritual authority of the
+Prince-Bishop to an Archbishop and the "Great Charter" of Montenegro.
+Danilo's reforms, however, led the Turk again to attack his invincible
+foe, only again to end in great disaster. But in the Crimean War
+Montenegro, greatly to the disgust of the people, did not participate,
+and in the Congress which followed Danilo was offered a Turkish title
+and the hated Turkish protectorate. His willingness to accept this led
+to the formation of a strong opposition party who demanded war.
+Fortune was on their side, and the Turks invaded Montenegro. The
+command fell to Mirko, who from his former exploits had gained the
+name of the "Sword of Montenegro." A battle was fought at Grahovo,
+which will ever live in memory as the Montenegrin Marathon. The Turks
+were completely crushed by a small force of Montenegrins, and peace
+followed. His brief reign was brought to a close at Cattaro, in 1861,
+by an assassin's bullet, and Nicolas, his nephew, reigned in his
+stead.
+
+War broke out again on the Hercegovinian insurrection of the following
+year, the results of which were disastrous in a high degree to
+Montenegro. Even the famous Mirko, the father of Prince Nicolas, after
+sixty battles, could do no more, and the Convention of Scutari (1862)
+brought the war to a close. It was settled that Mirko, as the
+firebrand, must leave the country, and various other clauses appear in
+the Convention, few of which seem to have been strictly adhered to. It
+needed another war to settle the Turco-Montenegrin border.
+
+The land now enjoyed the blessings of peace for fourteen years, which
+included a severe famine and an outbreak of cholera. Help was now,
+however, forthcoming from all sides in the shape of corn and money. In
+1869 it was with great difficulty that the Prince could restrain his
+warlike subjects from aiding the revolted Krivosejans. The Emperor of
+Austria fully recognised the harm which Montenegro could have done
+him, and signalised his thanks by the gift of an Austrian Order. But
+the Montenegrins could not be restrained at the outbreak of the
+Hercegovinian revolt, and flocked to the standards of their brothers.
+The Porte's remonstrances were met with a curt demand for the cession
+of Hercegovina, and Prince Nicolas published at the same time an
+offensive and defensive alliance with Servia.
+
+Immediately after this (1876) he declared war. Success followed his
+arms everywhere. A short armistice was concluded, but nothing further
+came of it, and the war proceeded. The Prince in person stormed the
+town of Niksic. Podgorica and its fertile plain fell into the hands of
+the conquerors, and then in quick succession Antivari and Dulcigno
+were forced to yield. He was about to commence the siege of Scutari
+when news came of the armistice between Russia and Turkey. The war had
+shown that no deteriorating element had sprung up among the people;
+they had fought as their ancestors had fought before them, and covered
+their name with glory and renown. Montenegro had gained a European
+reputation from this war, and the Porte, bowing to force of
+circumstances, finally recognised her independence. For five weary
+centuries had this struggle continued, and it is owing to the talent
+of their present ruler that the consummation of their hopes has been
+brought about. Free they always have been, but an acknowledgment of
+their freedom has ever been set aside. At last they have attained
+their object. The Turk no longer regards them as an insubordinate
+province, and it is more than likely that their former hatred of the
+Turk will pass away, for they have another enemy, who is pressing at
+their doors on three sides. The terms of the Berlin Congress granted
+to Montenegro Zabljak, Spuz, Podgorica, and Antivari. Dulcigno was to
+be restored to the Turks, and in exchange Gusinje and Plava were to be
+added to Montenegro. But the Albanian communities refused the lordship
+of Montenegro, and Dulcigno was granted to the Prince after a great
+naval demonstration of the Powers in 1880.
+
+The result of this campaign was that Prince Nicolas found his little
+kingdom increased from an area of 2,580 square kilometres, containing
+a population of 178,000 inhabitants, to over 9,000 square kilometres
+and a population of at least 240,000. In the last twenty-five years it
+has increased to quite another 100,000 inhabitants.
+
+War has never again seriously threatened Montenegro, and Prince
+Nicolas has been enabled to devote all his energies to the improvement
+of the land.
+
+There is now no district, however wild and cut off it may be, without
+its school, attendance at which is purely voluntary. Right well have
+the people availed themselves of this chance of education, and a
+sliding scale of school fees permits even the poorest peasant to send
+his son as well as his more wealthy brother.
+
+The teachers have a seminary at Cetinje, which they must first attend,
+and a gymnasium on the German and Austrian system can be visited, for
+those boys who wish to extend their education to an European standard.
+The same boys usually visit some Russian University, occasionally
+Vienna or Belgrade, and return to their native land as doctors,
+engineers, or lawyers, and supply the learned professions.
+
+At Cetinje there is a further High School for Girls, founded by the
+Empress Marie of Russia in 1869.
+
+As the older men have not enjoyed in their youth the advantages of an
+education which is now placed within the reach of all, lecturers are
+sent round the country, and on Sundays, in wild and cut-off districts,
+a man can be seen lecturing to a group of rough mountaineers who are
+listening intently. These Government lecturers teach the shepherds how
+to safeguard their sheep and cattle from disease; the lowland peasants
+are initiated into the mysteries of vine-growing (every Montenegrin
+family must plant a vine and attend to it) and tobacco-planting, and
+general information is given to all.
+
+The Army has been thoroughly reorganised, and is now, thanks to the
+gift of the Czar, armed with the most modern magazine rifle and
+officered by men who undergo a training in the armies of Russia,
+Italy, or France.
+
+The army system is of the simplest. The actual standing army consists
+of one battalion and a force of artillery, but during the year 4,000
+men pass through its ranks and receive a most efficient training. The
+men return to their homes at the end of four months' training, but
+drill weekly continues, on Sundays, till the age limit of sixty is
+reached, when their arms have to be returned to the Government, who
+again serve them out to the next recruit. Thus the recruit comes
+equipped for his four months' training, and takes his arms home with
+him at the conclusion, and is responsible for their good condition.
+Each man receives a certain number of cartridges, for which he must
+always be able to account, so that every able-bodied man is an
+efficient and well-armed soldier capable of taking the field at any
+moment.
+
+The smartest men become non-commissioned officers, and carry the
+insignia of their rank on their caps back to private life, where they
+become again the instructors of the local militia companies. There are
+two classes of commissioned officers--the officer of the standing
+army, trained in a Continental army, and who wears a distinctive
+uniform, and at least one of these is detailed for service in all the
+militia centres; and the militia officer, who receives his training
+with the standing battalion or batteries.
+
+Thus at a preconcerted signal, by trumpet and bonfires at night, and
+in some districts by a salvo of rifles, the whole Montenegrin Army can
+be mobilised at any given spot within the time that the furthest
+detachment can travel to the place of rendezvous. An example of the
+rapidity and ease of this mobilisation was once given to the late
+Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria, at Cetinje, when an army, drawn from
+every part of the country, equipped and ready for the field, was
+assembled within thirty-six hours of the first alarm. There is no
+commissariat, for each soldier supplies his own food, or rather his
+wife will keep him supplied in a lengthy campaign; no cavalry, for
+they are useless; and no heavy artillery.
+
+Law is administered by district courts for the more serious cases,
+with a Supreme Court of Appeal at Cetinje. There are no lawyers or
+costs; each man brings his own case and witnesses in civil matters,
+and criminals are dealt with summarily--that is to say, his district
+captain sends him in chains to Podgorica, where he receives his final
+sentence. The smaller district captains and "kmets," or mayors, have a
+limited amount of jurisdiction, and can inflict punishments, either in
+fines or short terms of imprisonment. They also settle all minor cases
+of dispute.
+
+The central, and soon to be the only, prison is at Podgorica. The
+majority of prisoners are undergoing different sentences, with and
+without chains, for murders in connection with the vendetta, according
+to the circumstances. A man who defends his honour, who kills his
+slanderer, is very lightly punished.
+
+Against only one class of offender does Prince Nicolas exercise his
+autocratic powers, _i.e._ the political offender, with whom he is
+relentless. Such men are thrown into prison, interred in dark cells
+without trial, and can languish till death sets them free. In this
+respect the Prince is harsh, and according to Western ideas barbaric,
+though local circumstances fully excuse his seeming cruelty. The
+smallness of the prison at Podgorica shows more forcibly than anything
+else the remarkable lack of crime in the land. At present (1902)
+dangerous lunatics are confined in the common prison, but an asylum is
+rapidly nearing completion.
+
+The government is autocratic. A senate, composed of the different
+ministers, exists in Cetinje, but all powers are jealously held by the
+Prince. He appoints the ministers and all the higher officials of the
+land, and only recently have the people been granted the right to
+elect the kmets.
+
+Montenegrin engineers now build the roads in place of Austrians and
+Russians, and the difficulties that they meet with and surpass at
+every turn are sufficient evidence of their capabilities. Foreign
+doctors and professors are yearly becoming more rare. In fact,
+Montenegro is rapidly becoming self-supporting and self-educating.
+
+Literature, always in olden times in advance of the surrounding lands,
+is fostered by the Prince, himself a scholar and a poet of no mean
+order. Two weekly papers in Cetinje and Niksic have a large
+circulation.
+
+Under Prince Nicolas' fatherly care the country improves in a
+wonderful manner from year to year. Roads are planned to connect the
+whole land, which only lack of funds are hindering from completion,
+and a railway is projected to connect the towns of Niksic, Podgorica,
+and Rijeka with Antivari and the sea.
+
+When Prince Nicolas shall be called to his fathers his son, Prince
+Danilo, will worthily carry on the work so nobly begun by his father,
+for he is a man imbued with the ideas of Western improvements and
+civilisation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+The journey to Montenegro--Arrival in Cattaro--Beauty of the Bocche,
+and the drive to the frontier--First impressions of
+Montenegro--Njegusi--The national troubadours--Arrival in Cetinje.
+
+
+The simplest way of entering the Land of the Black Mountain is _via_
+Cattaro in Dalmatia. The sea-trip from Trieste, which takes a little
+over twenty-four hours, is a revelation of beauty, for the Dalmatian
+coast is sadly unknown to the traveller. The journey can also be made
+from Fiume, whence the "Ungaro-Croata" send a good and very frequent
+service of steamers. But the idler should take a slow boat and coast
+lazily down the Dalmatian archipelago, visiting all the smaller towns
+and islands, which the fast line is bound to avoid. It is one of the
+most beautiful sea-trips in Europe, each little port possessing gems
+of old Roman and Venetian architecture, unrivalled, perhaps, in the
+world and set in a perfect framework of lovely country and dancing
+seascape.
+
+It was a glorious morning in May when the _Graf Wurmbrand_, the
+Austrian-Lloyd's fast steamer, left Trieste, bearing us to Cattaro.
+The Gulf of Trieste is very beautiful, for the green hills, all
+dotted with villas, the busy harbour life, the Julian Alps rising up
+majestically far away on the starboard, and directly behind the town,
+gaunt and grey, the naked Karst, of which we were to see so much in
+Montenegro; all made a picture that it would be difficult to forget.
+
+At midday we arrived at Pola. The entrance to the harbour is well
+covered by islands, and on each of these frowns a great fort, some of
+which, however, are so carefully hidden that their locality is only
+betrayed by a flagstaff. A narrow channel leads to the inner harbour,
+Austria's naval dockyard and arsenal. Here are the warships and
+building yards, and away to the left, as a strange and unfitting
+contrast, the Arena, one of the best-preserved specimens of Roman
+work, rises seemingly from amongst the houses. Pola is full of Roman
+remains. All is so green and peaceful, in spite of the countless
+fortifications which render the harbour well-nigh, if not quite,
+impregnable, that Nature and War seem for once to go hand-in-hand.
+
+[Illustration: THE GRAF WURMBRAND IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO]
+
+At twilight Zara looms up into view, and another short stay is made.
+The town turns out _en masse_ for the coming of the _Wurmbrand_ or the
+_Pannonia_--the fast boats from Trieste or Fiume are the events of the
+week. There is no railway here. Unluckily Dalmatia's finest scenery is
+passed in the night. Trau, with its splendid loggias and churches;
+Spalato, with the grandeur of Diocletian's palace, are denied to
+the traveller; Lesina, proudly calling itself the Nice of Austria;
+Curzola, whose mighty Venetian bastions stand out into the sea, and
+many another delightful little town and island, only show a twinkling
+light or two in the darkness as the steamer ploughs by. At daybreak we
+are nearing Gravosa, Ragusa's modern port. As we leave again, and
+round the peninsula of Lapad, glorious in a mass of semi-tropical
+vegetation, Ragusa bursts upon our view. Seen on a sunny morning it is
+a sight for the gods. Built well into the sea on inaccessible cliffs,
+surrounded by lofty walls, with a great hill as a background, it has
+well been called the prettiest bit of Dalmatia. It possesses a
+magnificent winter climate and a good hotel, so that people are
+forsaking the Riviera for this comparatively unknown paradise.
+
+Far too soon Ragusa fades away, and now the approaching mountains grow
+higher and wilder. Those lofty peaks, towering above the others, black
+and forbidding, are Nature's bulwarks of the land which we are
+visiting. It is from a distance that the name "Black Mountain" seems
+so aptly given to this fierce little state, though some historians
+wish to explain the derivation otherwise.
+
+The Bocche (or mouths) di Cattaro, three in number, are a consummate
+blending of the Norwegian fjords and the Swiss lakes, and so lofty and
+steep are the surrounding mountains that the sun can only reach the
+bottom for a few hours at midday.
+
+Away at the end of one fjord lies the village of Risano, an idyllic
+spot, whence a road is in the course of construction to Niksic. All
+the worthy Bocchese are absolutely Montenegrin in sympathy, and
+Austria has had much trouble with these equally warlike Serbs.
+
+A curious conical hill rises out of the town, a high wall zigzags up
+to the fort above, showing Cattaro's strength of former days. Now, a
+few insignificant mounds of earth far away on the mountain-tops are
+all that is to be seen of the military might of modern Cattaro. Yet
+how powerful are those forts only the Austrian authorities know.
+Cattaro and the Bocche are impregnable from sea or land, though this
+array of strength against land attack seems almost unnecessary, as
+Montenegro possesses no heavy cannon at all. However, Austria is not
+reckoning in this case with Montenegro alone. But these are political
+questions.
+
+We were fortunate in securing a carriage of the Montenegrin post,
+which has good drivers, and what is still better, a fixed tariff, over
+which there can be no dispute. The drivers of Cattaro ask, and often
+get, twice the legal fare from ignorant strangers.
+
+Cattaro affords no comforts to the traveller; more is the pity, as it
+is one of the most magnificent spots in the world. The town itself is
+tiny and a perfect maze of little Venetian streets, in which it is
+easy to lose oneself if it were only larger. To walk upon the Riva and
+gaze upon those precipitous mountains which tower above the town and
+its militarily guarded walls is a sight which at first is hardly to be
+comprehended. It is too stupendous. Such a masterpiece of Nature can
+never tire.
+
+Montenegrins crowd the streets, and the little market is full of
+peasants who have wearily staggered down those steep paths in the
+early dawn with their enormous loads of field produce. Stately men
+wearing the insignia of their rank on their little caps pace up and
+down majestically and contrast strangely with the dapper Austrian
+officers. Their belts yawn suggestively, something is missing to
+complete the attire. It is the revolver, which Austrian law compels
+them to leave behind on entering her land. They are obviously ill at
+ease without that familiar weapon, for ever and anon a hand strays
+unconsciously to the empty belt seeking its wonted resting-place on
+the butt.
+
+Strolling one night on the Riva, we involuntarily held our breath as
+we came in sight of the huge lake, for it is easy to forget that this
+is the Adria. The waters lay unruffled before us, not a ripple
+disturbed those glassy depths which reflected every tree and cottage
+on the opposite bank. Each star found its double twinkling in that
+placid mirror, and mountain frowned back on mountain. It was almost
+unreal, so marvellous was the reflection. Behind us, at the top of the
+great ridge, a silvery effulgence proclaimed the coming of the moon.
+Her brilliant light silhouetted the grim and rocky ridge in startling
+clearness, though it was four thousand feet above us. Through a gap
+rises a peak, round which a filmy cloud had lovingly wrapped itself
+like a lace shawl upon the snowy shoulders of a beautiful woman. We
+took a turn down the quay, and at the end we turned our back on this
+witching view. Hardly had we retraced our steps a few yards when we
+and all our surroundings were bathed in a glorious white light. We
+turned again, and were almost forced to shield our eyes as we gazed on
+the gentle orb which had now surmounted the intervening ridge. The
+whole fjord was now transformed into a sea of silver almost as bright
+as midday. Each nestling village was distinct, even to the tiniest
+window; each tree and shrub on the wall-like mountain, and even the
+grim forts, were softened in that sweet radiance. The little paths
+which zigzag up the hills to the forts above look like great white
+snakes turning and twisting up those rugged cliffs.
+
+At four o'clock on the following morning we made a start, and were
+well up the mountain by the time that the sun began to make his
+presence felt.
+
+[Illustration: THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO]
+
+The high road to Cetinje was built by the Austrians, and it is a
+marvel of engineering skill, particularly the ascent of the almost
+perpendicular wall of mountain rising abruptly from Cattaro. In series
+of serpentines and gradients, which often permit the horses to trot,
+the road winds up and up, every turn giving a still finer view of the
+lake below. Cattaro remains in view practically the whole ascent. The
+view from the top is magnificent and unsurpassed in Europe. The grand
+bays look like miniature glass ponds, fringed with white toy villages,
+and far away in the distance the deep blue Adria sparkles and glitters
+in the sunshine.
+
+Montenegro is entered some little distance from the top, but, as only
+a row of paving stones indicates the spot, it is not till the carriage
+dashes through a rocky gorge and out into the open Karst beyond that
+the traveller realises that he has crossed the border. The sudden
+change is startling, from the blue sea and green valleys to grey
+masses of limestone rock and barren mountains. It is the Katunska, the
+original stronghold of the Montenegrins, within which they defied all
+comers.
+
+At the first house, solidly built of stone, our carriage halted, and
+the driver entered it, emerging with the revolver which he had to
+relinquish on entering Austria. It is a formidable weapon specially
+manufactured in Vienna for Montenegro, a foot and a half long, firing
+an enormous cartridge. The revolver is always worn, by all classes
+alike, and carried loaded by order. The upper classes carry a much
+smaller and handier weapon, but a revolver must be carried by prince
+and peasant alike.
+
+Njegusi is the first town or village reached, and here an hour's rest
+is always made. It is interesting, since it was once the temporary
+capital, and as the home of the Petrovic family, the reigning dynasty.
+It lies in a great hollow of fertile ground, and on the southern side
+the historical Lovcen ascends. On the top the great prince and hero,
+Peter II., is buried, and his mausoleum brings large numbers of
+pilgrims yearly.
+
+As our carriage drew up before the little hostelry, a crowd of boys
+were standing in front of a house opposite, which is half telegraph
+office and half school, for economy in buildings is practised in
+Montenegro. They saluted us smartly in military fashion. The born
+soldier is noticed at once, even in the small children; many
+generations of fighting ancestors have bequeathed a smartness and
+accuracy of movement which can be envied by many a Continental trained
+conscript.
+
+The traveller meets with little attention either here or in Cetinje.
+It is not till he gets well off the beaten track that he sees the
+hospitable and courteous Montenegrin as he really is.
+
+[Illustration: NJEGUSI]
+
+[Illustration: THE GUSLAR]
+
+During our frugal breakfast of raw ham and goat's cheese, our
+ears were assailed by the singing of the guslar, or Montenegrin
+troubadour. The guslars, we noticed, are invariably blind, and as no
+previous musical education seems necessary, it would appear to be a
+monopoly of those so afflicted. Their singing is execrable according
+to Western notions, a range of four or five notes in a wailing minor
+key making up their register, and they accompany themselves on an
+instrument (the gusla) from which they derive their name. It is
+hand-made, resembling a cross between a violin and a mandolin. It
+possesses one string, and is played with a short curved bow. With
+careful handling, a series of discordant notes of wearying monotony
+can be produced. The performance is altogether most doleful.
+
+Yet they are the history books, the legend tellers of the country.
+They fan the fire of patriotism and loyalty by songs of the deeds and
+accomplishments of their Prince, of dead heroes and past glorious
+battles, and form another link with the mediaeval world of which the
+traveller is so strongly reminded at every step in Montenegro.
+
+As we left the village we passed the birthplace of Prince Nicolas I.,
+though the palace appears to have been entirely rebuilt. In nearly
+every town or village of importance the Prince has a house, varying
+considerably in size, but of equally unpretentious exterior.
+
+The road still climbs and reaches the maximum height of three thousand
+five hundred feet. From this altitude it steadily drops into Cetinje,
+which lies about two thousand feet above the sea-level. The scenery is
+unvarying, but not without beauty. It is essentially wild, but the
+light colour of the rocks and the numerous shrubs which find a footing
+in the crevices minimise the forbidding character of the country. The
+land is magnificently adapted for guerilla warfare, where every foot
+can be contested. Little patches of earth, washed down the hillsides,
+lie in every hollow, and have been utilised by the careful peasant to
+grow his tiny crops.
+
+After about seven hours' driving, Cetinje appears in sight, at the end
+of a long valley, and completely surrounded by the characteristic
+naked and rugged rocks. The road descends by another series of
+serpentines, and a long straight drive brings us into the town. The
+valley is about four miles long and three-quarters of a mile broad and
+absolutely flat.
+
+The effect is most odd at first sight, a long main street, an open
+market-place, and a few side streets constituting the capital of an
+important European principality. The town, on entering it, bears a
+strong resemblance to a South African township, where, as is the case
+here, space is no object, and the houses are rarely more than one
+story high.
+
+We stayed at the Grand Hotel during our first visit. It is the only
+really good hotel in Montenegro, and in consequence expensive. Here
+all the tourists stay for a night or so during a hasty visit to the
+Crnagora, and it is to be avoided by those who wish to see the
+country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The
+barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our
+departure for Podgorica.
+
+
+There is not much for the tourist to see in Cetinje; a day is quite
+sufficient to do the sights, such as they are.
+
+Unfortunately for the country, the tourist usually contents himself
+with a look round the little capital and returns the way he came to
+Cattaro, only a few prolonging the tour _via_ Rijeka to Scutari. Thus
+a very erroneous impression is gained of Montenegro and its people.
+Firstly only a small part of the Katunska is seen, which is the most
+uninteresting district of the whole country; and, secondly, no idea of
+the sturdy inhabitants can be formed from the handful of more or less
+well-to-do officials and merchants, all intimately connected with the
+outside world, round the proximity of Cattaro.
+
+[Illustration: MONTENEGRIN INFANTRY]
+
+[Illustration: THE VLADIKA AT THE MONASTERY OF IVAN BEG]
+
+Cetinje, with its four thousand inhabitants, is simply the residence
+of the Montenegrin Court, it is not even a trading centre, which the
+absence of the Turkish element sufficiently proclaims. It is only the
+question of expense which has hitherto prevented the transference
+of the capital to another site, viz. Nikzic. Cetinje was chosen as the
+capital some hundreds of years ago--1484, to be pedantically
+correct--when a defensible position was the most important factor,
+which even to-day is a point to be reckoned with.
+
+We will first go round "the sights."
+
+It possesses two historical buildings in the monastery and the
+Billard, the rest being all of quite modern origin. The monastery is a
+picturesque pile of grey stone, nestling under a lofty rock, on which
+is perched the identical round tower, or "kula," to give it its local
+name, on which the heads of Turks slain in battle were exhibited on
+spikes. It was not so very long ago that the last grim trophies of war
+graced its battlements. The monastery contains the burying vault of
+the reigning house, and is the residence of the Vladika or Archbishop
+of Montenegro. Prince Nicolas can be found any morning worshipping at
+the tombs of his ancestors by the visitor who is willing to rise at
+daybreak. Very often he is the only "faithful" present with the
+officiating priest at an hour when the sun has hardly peeped over the
+rocky ramparts of the town.
+
+Prince Nicolas, the lord of this warrior nation, is a man of imposing
+stature, so broad-shouldered that his height seems far less than it
+really is, walking with head erect and firm tread and clad in the rich
+national costume. The stranger involuntarily doffs his cap and
+receives in return a short military salute, but accompanied by such a
+piercing glance from a pair of cold grey eyes that he wonders if he is
+not an intruder in the land. This is, however, far from the case.
+Under that austere exterior beats a warm heart and an affability of
+manner to which the lowliest of his peasants will gladly testify.
+Prince Nicolas likes to see visitors to his land, and many are the
+little acts of kindness and courtesy that the traveller receives, all
+unknown, from his hand, for he knows the coming and going of everyone
+who makes a longer stay than usual.
+
+Sixty years ago Prince and Bishop were united in one person, and
+though the Bishop or Vladika has to-day no temporal power, yet in
+spiritual matters he is absolute. A very kindly man is the present
+Vladika, Mitrofanban. By an odd coincidence his was practically the
+first house we visited in Montenegro, and with him we drank our last
+cup of coffee when we left many months later.
+
+The other building is the old palace of the Princes of Montenegro,
+which won its odd name of Billard or Biljar from the fact that a
+former Prince was so addicted to the game of billiards that the
+principal room of the palace was devoted to the game. It is now used
+for State purposes. The upper floors are occupied by the Government
+offices, and at one corner is the Supreme Court of Justice and
+Appeal, whose judgments are only reversible by the Prince himself.
+Further, the school and printing works are to be found within its
+quaint old red-brick walls and bastions.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRINCE'S PALACE]
+
+Opposite to this picturesque old building stands the modern and
+uninteresting one-storied palace of Prince Nicolas. It shows the
+simplicity of his nature in perhaps a more marked degree than anything
+else, for little or no privacy from his people is possible. He walks
+from his house down a short flight of steps into the street. The small
+courtyard at the back is surrounded by a low wall, the entrances
+having no gates.
+
+The recently erected palace of the Crown Prince Danilo, which stands
+on the outskirts of the town, is a somewhat more pretentious building.
+It has a large garden completely walled in, which is at any rate an
+apology for privacy and seclusion.
+
+To obtain a comprehensive view of the town, we climbed a small hill
+immediately above the monastery, on whose summit stands the gilded
+cupola erected to the memory of Danilo Petrovic, the Lord of Njegusi,
+founder of the present dynasty. Very pretty the simple little town
+looks from here, its red roofs giving a pleasing touch of colour to
+the otherwise severe landscape of grey rock, dazzling white streets,
+and sparsely vegetated valley.
+
+One afternoon we visited the barracks, which are quite new, and the
+quarters of the battalion of the standing army. The barrack rooms are
+spotlessly clean, and the order and neatness unsurpassed, which,
+together with the smart drilling and superb physique of the soldiers,
+would delight the heart of the severest martinet. Everything connected
+with the military training of the Montenegrins is up to the standard
+of Continental excellence. All the officers undergo a long course of
+training, either in Russia, France, or Italy, and right well have they
+utilised this privilege. No wonder that the warlike Montenegrin drills
+as well as his Continental brother. The standing army wear uniforms,
+and at a distance remind one of our own troops, with their
+tight-fitting, short red jackets and tiny caps.
+
+[Illustration: _Monastery Billard Prince's Palace_ GENERAL VIEW OF THE
+CETINJE]
+
+Other conspicuous buildings are the theatre, where performances are
+given in the winter in the Serb language and where Prince Nicolas'
+famous drama, _The Empress of the Balkans_, was first performed; the
+house of the Austro-Hungarian Minister, which is the best in
+Cetinje,[1] and the hospital. It is the only hospital in Montenegro,
+and is used almost solely for serious surgical operations. Here Prince
+Mirko, the second son of Prince Nicolas, spends much of his time, for
+his tastes run to bacteriology, and his skill with the microscope is
+acknowledged. He is also a musician of no mean order, and the march
+which he composed in honour of the city of Rome, and which was
+performed there under the leadership of Mascagni, will be in the
+memory of all. He has none of the tastes of his elder brother, who,
+true to the traditions of his country, is a mighty hunter, and whose
+prowess with rifle, gun, and revolver is acclaimed by the people who
+understand these gifts better.
+
+[Footnote 1: The Russian Minister has now an equally imposing
+edifice.]
+
+By far the most interesting episode of our sojourn in Cetinje was a
+visit to the prison, which we were enabled to do with our camera, by
+the kindness of the Minister of Justice. It was the first time in the
+annals of Montenegro that strangers had been allowed to take
+photographs in a prison.
+
+At the appointed hour we approached the plain building, surrounded by
+no wall of any kind, which does duty as the prison. It is soon to be
+done away with, and all the prisoners will be transferred to the
+central prison at Podgorica. Smiling warders welcomed us and conducted
+us to their living-room, barely furnished and with an array of
+revolvers--the property of the prisoners--hanging on the walls. A
+female prisoner prepared us coffee, and while we were sipping the
+inevitable beverage a glance through the window showed us men busily
+sweeping the courtyard of the prison.
+
+First of all a warder showed us the fetters--heavy, cumbersome irons,
+which are riveted to one or both ankles, according to the sentence.
+But it is only in exceptional cases of aggravated crime that this
+severer sentence is meted out to the offender. Then we were conducted
+by the main and only entrance into the courtyard, two sides of which
+contain the cells of the prisoners. These gentlemen rose with alacrity
+to their feet as we entered, evidently much pleased at the honour of
+our visit. Only three men were chained, and of these one remained
+moodily seated, staring indifferently on the ground before him. He
+formed such a contrast to his fellow-prisoners' smiling faces that we
+observed him closer, noticing that his clothes were such as the
+officials and better class wear.
+
+"Who is he?" I asked.
+
+"A Government clerk convicted of embezzlement," was the answer. "Six
+weeks in chains is his sentence."
+
+"And what have the other criminals done?" was our next query.
+
+"Oh, they have mostly quarrelled amongst themselves. They are not
+criminals. We have very few thieves and robbers in Montenegro. This
+youth," went on our informant, pointing to a young man with a pleasant
+face, and who grinned with joy as he noticed the attention with which
+we favoured him, "has a ten years' sentence for quarrelling."
+
+"But quarrelling," we repeated. "Is it punishable to _quarrel_?"
+
+"Yes, too many lives are lost," was the laconic reply.
+
+"Oh," we exclaimed, a light breaking in upon us, "you mean murder!
+They are all murderers?"
+
+"We have no murderers," came the indignant response. "Our land is as
+safe from murder as any other in the world. No one kills to rob or
+steal in Montenegro. But we just quarrel amongst ourselves. We are
+hot-blooded and shoot quickly, that is all."
+
+P. and I looked at each other, but neither of us felt inclined to
+venture any further remarks; so we examined a dark cell with interest,
+without furniture or light, and one of six used for the worst kind of
+offender, viz. the political. They were all untenanted. We had all
+crowded inside, our warders as well, and as we emerged again into the
+strong light, I noticed the gate wide open and no visible guard.
+
+"You have left the gate open!" exclaimed P., as he saw it.
+
+Our warders laughed. Afterwards we understood.
+
+Then we inspected a common cell, where about a dozen men sleep. Each
+man brings his own bedding and nicknacks, with which he decorates the
+wall above his bed and makes the place as much like home as possible.
+Loss of liberty is the only real punishment, and even that is not
+carried to an excess. The Prince has said that the restraint that they
+suffer is enough, and thus the prisoners have comparatively free
+intercourse with the outside world, plenty to eat, and on festivals
+wine and even spirits and a dance with their friends outside. This
+latter scene we witnessed some time afterwards on another visit to
+Cetinje. The only real severity is the chains, but these sturdy
+mountaineers soon accustom themselves to these thirty-pound trinkets,
+and when photographed take good care to arrange them tastefully and
+prominently. When we lined them up for a picture, we demanded a front
+place for the chained men, to their intense delight and the chagrin of
+the others who cast envious glances at their more favoured brethren.
+No doubt in that moment the unchained men wished they had gone just a
+little further in their "quarrel."
+
+After a pleasant half-hour with these quarrelsome gentlemen, we went
+round to the ladies who occupy a wing of the prison, with all windows
+and doors facing outwards on to the open ground. Again no fence or
+wall marked a limit to their prison, and they walk in and out of their
+cells at leisure. However, there is a boundary marked out by posts and
+trees, beyond which they may not go. As we appeared they were sitting
+about, singly and in groups, knitting peacefully in the warm sunshine.
+We again inspected their quarters, and learnt that the odd score of
+women represented the total crime of the land.
+
+[Illustration: THE FEMALE PRISONERS]
+
+A blushing and gratified array of staid matrons and coquettish girls
+faced the camera, again only one young maiden of fifteen or sixteen
+showing any sense of shame, and she fled into her cell, only to be
+ruthlessly ordered out by a warder.
+
+Soon afterwards we took our leave, and as we crossed the small
+unenclosed square before the men's prison we found it crowded by the
+late inmates of the courtyard, walking merrily up and down or chatting
+with friends on the outskirts, over which neither party may step. Only
+the dismal clanking of a chain here and there proclaimed to the casual
+observer the fact that they were prisoners. Lithe, active, and
+athletic men, none of whom fear death, and guarded by four warders in
+the loosest possible fashion, yet they never attempt a dash for
+freedom up the rocky slope which reaches down to their very promenade
+ground. Flight would entail their escaping from their country
+altogether, never to return, and that no Montenegrin has ever been
+known to do. Even though they work for years in strange lands, they
+invariably return to their rugged native mountains and end their days
+in peace. And so they serve their time in patience, and go home at the
+expiry of the sentence "without a stain on their character."
+
+Many months afterwards we chanced to arrive in Cetinje on the occasion
+of a great feast. A stranger happened to be with us, a German, and we
+were showing him the sights. Naturally we also wended our way to the
+prison, hoping to be able to give him the unique spectacle of the
+prisoners strolling freely up and down their garden. As we neared the
+square sounds of singing and music assailed our ears, and in front of
+the women's quarters a large ring was swaying to and fro in the
+national dance termed "kolo." Men and women were performing together,
+otherwise the sexes are kept severely apart, while others sat around
+in groups partaking of wine and food which their friends or relations
+had brought them, and they all sat chatting and laughing together as
+though this were their natural state of existence.
+
+"The prisoners," I said, pointing to the dancers.
+
+"Nonsense," said the German.
+
+"Come nearer and listen," I answered, for even I had my doubts for the
+moment; but my ear had caught the clanking of chains above the wild
+music.
+
+They were the prisoners right enough, and many of the men moved
+heavily and awkwardly to the slow rhythm of the motion. It is not easy
+to dance with such ornaments as are provided free and gratis by the
+paternal Prince to curb an exuberance of spirits.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRISONERS DANCING]
+
+A great trial that the photographer has to undergo, be he professional
+or a strolling amateur, is the immediate demand for the picture. The
+mysteries of dark rooms and developing are not to be lightly
+explained, and the refusal to show the picture, for which the vain
+Montenegrins have so willingly stood, is accounted churlish. They are
+only appeased with a promise of a picture a few weeks later. Their
+names and addresses are hurriedly scribbled and handed with many
+peremptory requests for the picture to be sent as soon as possible.
+
+Just before we left Cetinje, on our way to Podgorica, during our first
+visit, a bowing and deeply humble individual accosted us in the hotel.
+When he had straightened himself up a bit, and we could see his face,
+we recognised one of the prison warders. After many expressions of
+sorrow for disturbing us, we gathered that on the occasion of our
+visit to the prison only three of the four warders had been present.
+The fourth--and it would appear the head warder--had arrived after our
+departure, and learning of the photographs and his omission, had made
+things a bit hot for his three favoured confreres. Therefore would we
+of our goodness come and photograph him, and thus make life worth
+living again? Would we restore the peace and harmony of that little
+community?
+
+With sorrow we declined, our carriage awaited us, and the day was hot.
+Some other time, we said. And with that uncertain comfort he was
+forced to be content.
+
+"But," he said, "the money which you have so generously given us and
+the prisoners has been expended on 'raki' (local spirits). We and the
+prisoners will pray for your souls for many nights ere we sleep."
+
+As we drove up the ascent from the town towards our new destination,
+we glanced back at the red-roofed little capital and noticed the low,
+grey stone building of the prison.
+
+"We ought to sleep well to-night," remarked P., nodding towards it.
+
+It is something to be prayed for, even if only by criminals of the
+quarrelsome type.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The
+market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside
+hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Moraca--The Vizier bridge--Old
+war-marks--First and last impressions of Podgorica.
+
+
+The drive from Cetinje to Rijeka, and from thence till the final
+descent to Podgorica, is quite as fine as any other part of
+Montenegro. For about twenty minutes after leaving Cetinje the road
+climbs and attains its greatest altitude on this tour, and at its
+highest point--only half an hour's walk from the town--possesses one
+of the most striking and beautiful views. It is rightly called "Bella
+Vista," and a shelter hut and chairs are thoughtfully provided for the
+visitor.
+
+A wonderful panorama meets his eye as he suddenly reaches the top. A
+fantastic sea, as it were, of hills, like the waves of a storm-tossed
+ocean, encircles him, and at his feet, green and wooded, lies a long
+fertile valley. Stretching far away into the gates of distance in its
+vast expanse, glitters the Lake of Scutari. Round a small dim spur of
+land running into the lake, lies Scutari itself, which is, however,
+not visible. To the left a forbidding chain of magnificent mountains,
+dwarfing the intervening hills into insignificance, fascinate him by
+their repellent grandeur. Snow-clad, except in the height of summer,
+these mountains seem symbolical of the land they border, that savage
+and unknown Albania. A glimpse of a green valley below can just be
+caught, there lies Podgorica, our destination. At our feet a long,
+low-lying plateau ends abruptly in a wall of rock, through which the
+road vanishes, and which can be traced white and threadlike on the
+overhanging hillside. Beyond is the valley and town of Rijeka. The
+mountains to the right are the Rumija, behind whose naked comb is the
+deep blue Adria, and which we must climb to reach the port of
+Antivari. The lake is dotted at the near end with islands,
+distinguishable amongst which is a conical-shaped hill crowned by a
+fortress. That is Zabljak, the whilom capital of Crnagora, and home of
+its ancient rulers, the Black Prince dynasty. The whole view is like a
+map in bas-relief.
+
+Gone now are the barren rocks and sparsely vegetated hills of the
+Katunska, and we are now in the fertile middle zone of Mediterranean
+vegetation, which includes the valley of the Zeta right up to Niksic.
+
+As we careered along, we were closely followed by another carriage,
+in which were crowded five Montenegrins and Albanians, who were
+evidently bent on making the pace. The Montenegrins are ever reckless
+drivers; they dash round sharp corners at full gallop, with a
+precipice of several hundred feet below--and there is never sufficient
+parapet to prevent a carriage dashing over--so that one involuntarily
+leans to the inner side of the carriage with that uncomfortable
+sinking feeling which can be experienced at sea. With a shout to warn
+anybody coming up the hill, the driver cracks his whip and dashes
+round each corner with a sublime indifference to danger.
+
+Whenever we slackened, our pursuing carriage came up at a rush, and
+its occupants emitted wild yells and vociferated polite requests to
+pass. Off we tore again, and at last reached that point where the
+descent begins in serpentines to Rijeka. When we were tearing along a
+lower level of the road, but a few yards below our rivals, we noticed
+with momentary misgivings that they had drawn their long revolvers and
+were holding them in their hands.
+
+Suddenly they began to fire, for no apparent reason, which habit is
+apt to be startling to a nervous traveller on his first journey. But
+our youthful driver let fly an answering shot; on inquiring he told us
+that it was to encourage the horses. Afterwards we never rode or drove
+any distance in the country without our revolvers, so that we too
+might help in the encouragement.
+
+That afternoon Rijeka presented a brilliant picture. On entering the
+town hundreds of peasants were congregated round the cattle-market on
+the outskirts, but it was on the broad street by the river bank that
+the most animated scene was to be witnessed. Every Montenegrin town
+should be seen on a market day, for then the peasants from far and
+near, in their best clothes and rifles over their shoulders, flock to
+the town with cattle and sheep and field produce. Rifles are usually
+carried when going on a long journey, particularly in the vicinity of
+Albania. This is partly as a sign of allegiance to their Prince, but
+chiefly because Montenegro stands ever before a sudden mobilisation.
+Should the soldier peasant hear the alarm, he must make his way at
+once for the rendezvous as speedily as possible, without detour.
+Further, hundreds of armed Albanians from the borders are always in
+their midst, as was the case to-day.
+
+Rijeka is a very busy little place, being the half-way village between
+the capital and Podgorica, and is still more important as the
+starting-point of the little steamer which plies twice weekly down the
+lake to Scutari. The river runs between lovely green hills rising
+straight from its banks, wooded and luxuriant, reminding one not a
+little of the Thames at Cookham.
+
+The Prince has a small palace just beyond the town, and spends the
+coldest winter months here, where he escapes the rigours of the
+climate in Cetinje. About half-an-hour's walk is the ancient fortress
+of Obod, famed in history as the site of the first printing-press
+(destroyed very soon by the Turks) in the Balkans, and indeed one of
+the first in the world, for Caxton was only a few years ahead. The
+fact speaks for the ever forward striving spirit which has animated
+Montenegro's rulers since its very foundation, and which only the
+rigours of pitiless warfare have hindered.
+
+On leaving the pretty little township, we had considerable difficulty
+in forcing our way through the flocks which continually blocked the
+road. All the way we ploughed through herds of cattle and stampeding
+sheep and goats, much to the disgust of their shepherds. These men,
+chiefly vicious-looking Albanians, with loosely-slung rifle, and round
+their waist a bandolier of cartridges, lend a wildness to the lonely
+road which is likely to mislead the new-comer; and should one of them
+empty his revolver light-heartedly in the air, to be answered by
+another some distance away, the impression is considerably heightened.
+
+The road climbs to a good height immediately and commands a fine view
+of the valley with the little river winding in and out. In winter the
+effect is that of a great flood, for everywhere partially submerged
+trees and bushes show above the water. But in reality it was only a
+natural course of events, for in summer the water recedes and leaves
+great fields on which crops of maize are grown, while during the
+winter or rainy months the whole district of fertile land becomes
+again submerged. This view of the Rijeka was decidedly one of the
+prettiest in the country, combining, as it does every now and then,
+glimpses of the lake and the majestic Albanian Alps.
+
+Always followed by our rival party, we halted at a wayside inn to
+refresh both man and beast. These inns are quaint little places. There
+is seldom any other floor than that already provided by Nature, which
+has been beaten flat.
+
+We called for coffee, and partook of the country's wine, to whose
+acidity we never accustomed ourselves, and entered into conversation
+with our convivial companions. One, a horse dealer, spoke excellent
+Italian, and we met him often afterwards in the course of our travels.
+
+When we had finished our libations, we naturally wished to have the
+bill or rather to know how much there was to pay.
+
+"Nothing," was the answer.
+
+"But we have had ----" It is not well to particularise--it was a
+thirsty day.
+
+"There is nothing to pay," the woman reiterated.
+
+The other party had guiltily slipped out of the room and climbed into
+their carriage, and our driver became impatient to maintain the lead.
+With mixed feelings we followed him out, and in another second were
+off again at a gallop.
+
+It was always like that in Montenegro. We have gone into an inn or
+cafe and drunk a liqueur (a polite name for the fiery but wholesome
+local spirit), when a fresh glass will be silently placed before us.
+We have waved it away.
+
+"Not ordered it," we would say.
+
+"That man has," answers the boy, and points at a smiling Montenegrin
+on the other side of the room. Sometimes, and very often too, other
+guests follow suit, and the result is trying. We gave up visits to
+cafes afterwards, except when we were on pleasure bent and had an hour
+to spare. Hospitable, reckless, poverty-stricken Montenegrins--one can
+travel far before another such a race can be found.
+
+The last two hours of the drive are uninteresting, chiefly because
+eight hours in a carriage is trying. Podgorica comes in sight long
+before it is reached, in the form of a cluster of trees on a grassy
+but dead-level plain, out of which two minarets show their graceful
+spires. The background is imposing, lowering Albanian mountains rise
+abruptly to their lofty heights from the level of the plain.
+
+For an hour we drove along the plain, and passed a solitary building
+situated on a slight eminence. It was Krusevac, one of the Prince's
+country palaces, or, to be more correct, Prince Mirko's palace, as
+"Voivoda" or Duke of the Zeta, which ancient and historical title is
+his. Then for some distance we skirted the Moraca, driving in an
+opposite direction to Podgorica till we came to the "Vizier" bridge,
+over which we crossed and retraced our way to the town.
+
+The River Moraca is a large mountain torrent, into which the Zeta
+flows only a short distance away from the town. It rushes over great
+boulders, forming here and there formidable rapids, between two deep
+banks, which, without any warning, break off suddenly from the flat
+and form precipitous sides fully two hundred feet deep. Two or three
+hundred yards away, no gap or break in the plain is observable.
+Sometimes the river swells almost to the top of its banks, and then
+the effect must be terrible. There is a ford near Podgorica, which the
+peasants use to avoid the long detour by the bridge, but woe to the
+man who makes a false step. Three women, carrying loads of wood, lost
+their footing during our stay, and were drowned. In its waters we swam
+every evening, and even in midsummer, when the river is low, the
+strength of the current required an expert and powerful swimmer to
+breast it, and it was invariably very cold.
+
+[Illustration: THE VIZIER BRIDGE]
+
+The bridge, built by an old Turkish Vizier many, many years ago, is
+most picturesque, and completely in keeping with the rocky banks and
+the foam-flecked, emerald-green waters rushing beneath. From this
+bridge a man once sprang into the depths below, to show that he was
+not intoxicated. As a matter of fact he was, but he emerged dripping a
+hundred yards lower down, unhurt and at least in his right mind.
+
+There used to be a deep indentation in a stone of the bridge
+parapet--during our stay in the country it has been plastered
+up--which credulous Montenegrins relate to be the cut of a Turkish
+horseman pursuing a fleeing Montenegrin. The story goes that the Turk
+severed the Montenegrin's head from his body, and so violent was the
+stroke that he cut into the stone wall as well.
+
+Again, just before the town, two slabs, standing exactly thirty paces
+apart, mark a similar episode, and the headless man is said to have
+run that distance before falling. This legend--which, furthermore, has
+many eye-witnesses still living in the town who swear to the truth--is
+more capable of belief if one takes into consideration the flight of a
+decapitated fowl in any of our poultry yards.
+
+The road entering Podgorica is very similar in appearance to that
+which leads into Cetinje, only the first impressions are considerably
+wilder and more uncivilised than that of the capital. Hundreds of
+Turks and Albanians are smoking their evening "tchibouque" in the
+streets, and scowl in no friendly manner at the stranger. Some of
+them, namely, the merchant class, are, however, excellent people,
+travelled and educated, as we found out afterwards. The Albanian and
+Turk are the enterprising merchants of Montenegro, and improve on
+acquaintance, which is sometimes necessary.
+
+We had a lonely, solitary feeling as we drove through the crowd of
+loiterers, and were glad to descend at a presentable-looking hostelry.
+How often first impressions are wrong we proved to the full in this
+instance.
+
+Podgorica saw more of us than any other town during our stay, for we
+made it afterwards our headquarters. It would be difficult to forget
+that mountain-bounded valley and the town with its bustling streets of
+picturesque humanity. And then those sunsets! The peaks towering
+behind bathed in crimson, and the intervening hills rising one above
+the other to the furthermost summits like a giant staircase, rich in a
+mysterious purple. As we walked back from our evening swim, over the
+short, springing grass, that scene at sunset never abated its charms
+one whit. And we were always glad on entering the town that no one
+wore plain, ugly European clothes but ourselves. The national
+costumes, so full of colour, blended harmoniously with our feelings,
+and have left behind them an indelible picture.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in
+Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The prison and its
+inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The modern town--The market
+and the armed buyers--The Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin
+methods of doing business.
+
+[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF PODGORICA]
+
+
+If it were not for the dangerous proximity of the Albanian border,
+Podgorica would have been made the capital of Montenegro. It is
+favourably situated for a trade centre, and, owing to this fact, has
+naturally gathered a large population (the largest in Montenegro),
+approaching ten thousand. Lying on a rich and fertile plain, within
+easy reach of the Lake of Scutari, and connected by good roads with
+Cetinje and Niksic, it is within market distance, so to speak, of
+Kolasin and Andrijevica. From these districts, and from the Albanian
+borders, the people flock in crowds, and the Podgorican market is by
+far the most important in the country. But--and it is a big "but"--in
+this case the Albanian frontier is only an hour's walk away, and it
+would never do to risk the persons of the Royal Family and the
+Ministers in a sudden Albanian raid, and troubles and disturbances are
+of everyday occurrence.
+
+We made Podgorica our headquarters during our sojourn in the land of
+the Black Mountain mainly for its central position, but also for the
+opportunity afforded us there for studying Montenegrin life.
+
+It would be difficult to forget our first visit to the town. It was
+Easter Sunday evening when we arrived at the Hotel Europa, and after
+seeing our luggage carried in, started out on a tour of inspection,
+and also to present our letter of introduction to Dr. S., the
+veterinary surgeon of Montenegro. We had not got more than fifty yards
+from the hotel when we were forced to beat a hasty and ignominious
+retreat. At Eastertide, which is one of the biggest feasts in the
+Greek Church, beggars, halt and maim, blind and tattered, pour into
+all the larger towns of the country. They come from Turkey, Albania,
+Bosnia, and Dalmatia--in fact, from everywhere within reach--and make
+a rich harvest, for the Montenegrin opens his heart, his hand, and his
+house at Easter. In our innocence we imagined this to be the normal
+state of affairs in Montenegro, and were greatly cast down.
+
+But our worthy host armed himself with a big stick, and we sallied
+forth again under his guidance. Even then it was no joke, and the
+house of Dr. S. came as a haven of refuge. Anyone who has been in the
+East knows what an amount of persistency and endurance the Oriental
+beggar possesses.
+
+[Illustration: THE RIBNICA]
+
+We were received as old friends and welcomed to the Easter table,
+which was set, as in any other Montenegrin house at this season, for
+anyone and everyone who has the remotest claims of acquaintanceship.
+
+Several men were present, to whom we were at once introduced; amongst
+others a canny Scotchman, the only Britisher living permanently in the
+country. We were a cosmopolitan gathering. There was Dr. S., a
+Roumanian, an Austrian ornithologist, a Scotchman, our innkeeper was a
+Macedonian, and two or three Montenegrins. From that evening date many
+of the pleasant friendships which we made in Montenegro.
+
+The next day our newly-made friends showed us Podgorica. It is divided
+into two distinct parts--the old, or Turkish town, and the new
+Montenegrin town, which dates from the conquest of 1877. The two
+halves are separated by the River Ribnica, which flows in a deep bed
+before the crumbling walls of the Turkish quarter. At one angle of the
+town the Ribnica enters the Moraca, Montenegro's biggest and most
+important river.
+
+Most picturesque is the old Turkish quarter, still surrounded by the
+same bastions and walls which not so long ago defied the Montenegrin
+army. But the houses, as well as the walls, are fast falling to ruin;
+for at the order of the Prince the market has been removed to the
+other side, and, in comparison with the new town, there are few
+inhabitants left. The fortifications still bear witness to the fierce
+struggle which took place before them, and one bastion was breached
+more successfully than ever Montenegrin cannon had done, by lightning,
+during the bombardment. Many of the older inhabitants, as well as the
+walls, show traces of the former conflict, a noseless man being no
+great curiosity.
+
+Not for nothing has the Montenegrin won his fame as one of the
+fiercest fighters in the world. He was never outdone in atrocities by
+his enemies. It was the rule of war (and is now, to a great extent) to
+either behead one's prisoner on the spot, or, if the day had been
+exceptionally heavy, and more heads could not be carried conveniently,
+noses were taken instead. Perhaps the phrase "to count noses"
+originated in these lands. However, it usually ended the same, for the
+noseless man would, as a rule, bleed to death; but some have lived
+through it, and can be met with anywhere in Montenegro or Albania.
+
+Many fierce fights took place in and about Podgorica, and the ghastly
+picture of victorious Montenegrins at the conclusion of an affray,
+sitting in groups, each with a small or large heap of heads and noses
+before him, "counting the bag," has many eye-witnesses still living.
+
+In the Turkish town lies the prison, soon to be the only one in
+Montenegro. A new wing is rapidly nearing completion to accommodate
+the female prisoners, who are at present incarcerated in Cetinje. We
+visited the director that Easter Monday morning, and were received
+unofficially in his quarters. We always had great fun with that man--a
+pompous individual filled to overflowing with the importance of his
+position, and, not unlike men similarly afflicted, most aggressively
+stupid.
+
+As a great favour, and after our united persuasion, he allowed us at
+last to look from a window overlooking the courtyard of the prison. As
+in Cetinje, the prisoners walk without let or hindrance in the
+spacious walled-in courts before their cell doors. Being Easter no man
+was chained, a privilege they owe to the Prince, who always releases
+the prisoners from their fetters during the great festivals; one
+wretched individual, however, we noticed more heavily manacled than
+even a murderer of the worst kind. He was, we were informed, a
+dangerous madman, though, poor devil, he looked harmless enough,
+slouching round and round the yard. The primitive custom of confining
+dangerous lunatics (for the harmless are allowed their full liberty
+outside) in the common prison is soon to be done away with. A large
+lunatic asylum is rapidly nearing completion near Danilovgrad--another
+memorial of Prince Nicolas' improvements.
+
+The prisoners were sleek and fat--those imprisoned for long terms or
+for life bearing witness of the good treatment which they receive at
+the hands of the authorities. One youngish man in particular
+attracted our attention, a merry laughing fellow whose girth had
+reached alarming proportions. He was imprisoned for life, and his
+crime, which sat so lightly upon him, had been a particularly
+atrocious and dastardly murder for plunder--a crime practically
+unknown in Montenegro.
+
+Imprisonment is more real here than in Cetinje. There is none of that
+delightful promenading up and down before the prison walls, hours
+pleasantly whiled away with a friendly visitor from afar over a pint
+of wine. The only glimpse of the outside world that these prisoners
+obtain is when a few of them fetch water daily from a well outside the
+walls.
+
+As we gazed upon the strange scene from the window above, of prisoners
+and warders amicably chatting together, others squatting in groups
+over a harmless game, a horrible voice disturbed the serenity of the
+picture. Then at a closely barred window a face appeared, with matted
+hair and long unkempt beard. It was the face of a madman; with
+terrible curses he filled the air, and we looked inquiringly at our
+cicerone.
+
+"That man is a political offender," came the answer. "For fifteen
+years he has waited his trial, and now he has become hopelessly
+insane. Many years ago he endeavoured to stir up a revolution against
+the Prince, and fled to Vienna, where he carried on his treasonable
+propaganda. But he was enticed back, and thrown into solitary
+confinement such as those who are traitors to their Prince receive.
+For an hour every day these prisoners are allowed to walk in the yard,
+but this man from the first refused to avail himself of the privilege,
+and now he has become what you see."
+
+"Will he never regain his freedom?" we asked.
+
+A shrug of the shoulders was all that our guide vouchsafed, and with
+that awful voice ringing in our ears we were glad to turn away.
+
+Two mosques still exist, and are in use, for the Turkish population is
+fairly large, though owing to recent events rapidly diminishing, but
+the Prince does everything in his power to cultivate a friendly
+feeling with the Mahometans. His country is the asylum for the
+persecuted Turk as well as the fugitive from justice, and, if his
+crime is political, he will be warmly welcomed.
+
+But, Woman again has upset the best of intentions, and within a year
+four elopements of Turkish girls from their homes with Montenegrins
+have taken place in Podgorica. These girls have been baptised and
+married to their Christian lovers. A worse insult to the Mahometan
+faith does not exist. But of this more anon.
+
+The modern town is painfully plain and uninteresting. Montenegrins
+have no knowledge or love of architecture. Each house is built
+solidly of stone, square and undecorated. Even the palaces of the
+Royal Family are of puritanical simplicity externally.
+
+There are the law courts, post and telegraph offices, and
+police-station all in one, a school, and a market-place, with a very
+ugly memorial to the fallen Montenegrins in the last war. Otherwise,
+the town is laid out with broad streets, all planted with trees,
+exactly like a South African township.
+
+Building plots are free, the only obligation to the owner being that
+he must run up the outside walls of the house at once. The roof and
+internal work can be completed at leisure. A large part of the town
+consists of mere shells of houses, the owners waiting for the means of
+completion.
+
+Some little distance from the town, across the Moraca, is the Prince's
+palace of Krusevac, which he occasionally visits. It stands quite
+alone on a slight eminence.
+
+The view round Podgorica is one of the most fascinating features of
+the place. It is one of those perfect views which never tire, and
+always present some new beauty, and the armed rough men in their
+brightly coloured and novel costumes are in complete unison with the
+picture. These national costumes seem so absolutely fitting to
+Montenegro that the otherwise plain and uninteresting buildings of
+the town are turned merely into a background for the ever-moving
+stream of colour. The Turkish bazaars with their gaudy wares hung out
+into the street, the red-jacketed Montenegrin, the Turk in pure white,
+the Scutarines in their distinct and original costume, and the
+Albanians who flock in hundreds to the market in coarse white serge,
+heavily bordered with black braiding, rifles over their shoulders and
+a bandolier round their waists, make a never-ending picture. We never
+wearied of wandering about the streets on market days. Then the town
+is filled to overflowing with a multi-coloured crowd, and every man
+from a distance brings his rifle.
+
+How odd it looked at first to see an Albanian with perhaps a
+shilling's-worth of field produce spread out before him, and at his
+side a rifle loaded and cocked; or, again, a Montenegrin boy of
+perhaps fourteen, with his rifle across his knee! To keep order in
+this formidably armed crowd of men, many animated with the fiercest
+racial and religious hatred of each other, are some dozen Montenegrin
+gendarmes, armed, as is every Montenegrin, with but a heavy revolver.
+
+Deadly enemies meet on the market-place, men standing in blood feud
+with one another, and speak, often expressing a fervent prayer soon to
+be able to put a bullet into the other at the first opportunity,
+but--outside the town. Podgorica is mutually held as neutral
+territory, and is very rarely violated. This is strange where men fear
+not death.
+
+But, outside, perhaps but half an hour from the outskirts of the town,
+these men will meet and shoot and kill; for murder, or sudden death,
+to use their euphemistic way of looking at matters, is by no means
+uncommon.
+
+There is a great tract of land about an hour's ride from Podgorica
+characteristically called the "Crna Zemlja" or Black Earth. It is
+neutral, lying between Montenegro and Albania, and the man who sets
+his foot on it carries his life in his hands. Men who know, say that
+every inch is soaked in blood. It is overlooked by some small hills
+from Albania, and is covered with long pampas grass, affording good
+cover for a man, and they shoot there for love of killing.
+
+But to return to Eastertide.
+
+It is a good time to visit Montenegro for first impressions. The
+Montenegrin outdoes himself in open-handed hospitality; every house is
+open, and everyone visits his neighbour. The best chamber in the
+house, as often as not the only living-room among the poorer classes,
+is set out with all the good things the owner possesses. On the table
+stand meat, eggs, bread, wine, and spirits; and it is a grievous
+insult to leave that room without tasting, and tasting liberally, of
+all. This lasts three days, and it is more than enough.
+
+And we were particularly honoured, being Englishmen and strangers: one
+might say we were painfully honoured. What quantities we were forced
+to eat and drink! At one house, that of a poor man, who lived with his
+wife in a tiny room, we were presented with a bottle of Munich beer,
+his greatest treasure, given him once by a friend who had travelled.
+He doubtless considered it a luxury of a priceless kind, and it cut us
+to the heart to drink that man's beer. But we had to; he took no
+denial, barely tasting it himself.
+
+We might have stood it fairly well were it not for those eggs,
+hard-boiled Easter eggs, the shells coloured red or blue. This
+institution is a positive torture to the unfortunate digestion, which
+suffers untold torments at Eastertide.
+
+There is a game played with these hard-boiled eggs which reminds one
+forcibly of schooldays. Two men each select an egg, and one, holding
+his egg firmly, allows the other to endeavour to crack it, only the
+pointed ends being used.
+
+But this harmless if childish custom once led to a vendetta. A man
+once cracked such an enormous quantity of eggs, that in the evening he
+was challenged to show his marvellous egg, which he persistently
+refused to do. This led to words and words to revolvers, and the man
+was shot. Then the egg was found to be a clever imitation in stone.
+
+Though Podgorica is the trading centre of Montenegro, business is not
+carried on in the same brisk way as in other lands.
+
+We once wished to send a parcel of feathers home, and went accordingly
+to the post office. It was towards evening then, and we were informed
+that the postmaster was "not at home," and were asked to come next
+day. The following morning we again visited the post office, when the
+contents were carefully noted, and long lists filled out which took
+roughly about half an hour; at the end of which time a head was thrust
+out of the window, asking us to call in about an hour and pay. This
+was because no post-office clerk is allowed to receive money; he is
+strangely enough not always honest, and the postmaster was again out.
+At the end of the hour we returned and paid.
+
+Another time I tendered a gulden in payment of a telegram, and had to
+wait a quarter of an hour while a boy was sent into the town to obtain
+change.
+
+In matters of business it is well to possess one's soul in patience. A
+more unbusinesslike set of people is hard to be found, yet in driving
+a bargain they are remarkably shrewd, to put it kindly.
+
+Even in such trivial matters as purchasing a hen no indecent hurry is
+shown. Such a transaction may take days. For instance, you wish to buy
+a hen, and signify the same to a man, and he will say--
+
+"I have a hen which I can sell thee, but it will break my heart. Such
+a hen, and such eggs! I feel I cannot part with her."
+
+"Very well," you say; "don't make yourself miserable; I'll buy one
+somewhere else."
+
+"But give me till to-morrow. It is too sudden."
+
+And he goes away. If you are not in a hurry, it does not matter and
+you wait. It is amusing.
+
+Next day he will come again and say that he has another hen nearly as
+good as the first, but, as he loves you and respects you, he will part
+with his beloved hen at a consideration, and names a price far beyond
+its worth. You refuse, and state your price for the _good_ hen, the
+ordinary market price, which he indignantly refuses and departs. In a
+few hours he will come again, bringing a hen which, almost with tears,
+he tells you is _the_ hen--his beloved hen.
+
+"Take her," he says, "as a present."
+
+Whereupon you press upon him the market price, which of course he
+takes, and the matter is finished.
+
+Such little episodes are trying at first. The Montenegrin loves
+money--it is his curse, or rather the curse of every country on the
+brink of civilisation--but he also loves to play the gentleman, who
+hates sordid money transactions. He will often make you a present and
+afterwards send in an extortionate bill.
+
+But, usually, you make him a monetary present _at once_, which he
+takes with thanks, at your own price.
+
+If it were not for money, what an ideal race the Montenegrins would
+be! But then that is the same with a good many people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and heroism--His part in Montenegrin
+history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The death
+dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The
+hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuz--A typical country inn and a
+meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea.
+
+
+During our repeated sojourns in Podgorica we made several excursions
+to places of interest in the neighbourhood, chief amongst which was a
+visit to Medun, Voivoda Marko Drekalovic's grave.
+
+Medun lies in the heart of the mountains, about four hours' ride from
+Podgorica, and is the capital (if one can apply such a high-sounding
+name to a ruined fortress and two or three houses) of the Kuc. The Kuc
+is a large province inhabited by one of the most warlike tribes of
+Montenegro, and only recently came under its rule, though their
+sympathies were never with their Turkish rulers. The fact that it
+borders on Albania is significant, and accounts for its fighting
+qualities.
+
+Voivoda Marko was largely instrumental in bringing about the last war
+with Turkey, which was so successful to Montenegro, when the Kuc,
+Podgorica, Niksic, the entire provinces of East Montenegro, the Brda,
+and the sea-coast from Antivari to Dulcigno were won and confirmed to
+Montenegro.
+
+The famous battle of Fundina was won by Marko and his tribe alone
+against an overwhelming Turkish army before war had been officially
+declared with Montenegro.
+
+Beginning life as a shepherd boy, Marko ended his days as Voivoda (or
+Duke), and his name is famed in many a song and beloved by the
+Montenegrins as one of their greatest heroes. Many were the stories of
+his reckless bravery, which one of his relations told us. Before he
+had reached the age of twenty he had killed many Turks in single
+encounter, and was in consequence outlawed. He lived for some years in
+the mountain fastnesses of his land, and together with a handful of
+adventurers, who had cast in their lot with his, made descent after
+descent on any bands of Turkish soldiers that happened to pass through
+his domain. His fame soon reached the ears of Prince Nicolas, who sent
+for him and placed him for some years in his bodyguard--that _corps
+d'elite_ of the Montenegrins.
+
+At the age of twenty-five he returned home and harassed the Turks to
+such an extent that he could not show himself openly by daylight. Like
+another and more famous outlaw in the days of the kings of Israel, all
+those that were bitter of soul came down unto him, and he became
+captain over them. By night he descended upon the Turks wherever he
+could find them, and made great slaughter among them. The Governor of
+Podgorica, then Turkish, Yussuf Mucic by name, offered a large sum of
+money for his head, but no one could be found willing to meet that
+terrible man whom legend and story had endowed with supernatural
+powers. Finally, a criminal consented to attempt the deed on the
+promise of his liberty, and this led to one of the most incredible
+episodes in Marko's life. The criminal lay in wait for him on a lonely
+part of the road near Rijeka, and as Marko was passing along he
+stepped suddenly on to the road pistol in hand. Marko in no way
+attempted defence, but simply transfixed the man with a glance. The
+wretched man in an ecstasy of terror shot himself, so penetrating was
+the glance which the Voivoda had given him. So runs the story. Suffice
+it to remark that Marko arrived safe and sound the same evening in
+Cetinje, and a dead criminal was found on the next day by the
+roadside. Now Yussuf, the Governor, was himself a soldier of some
+repute, and when he heard of the failure of his messenger he
+boastfully expressed a desire to meet the celebrated Marko in single
+combat. On this challenge being reported to him Marko rode off on a
+half-tamed steed at midday into the heart of Podgorica, and reined up
+before the Pasha's house. In fear and trembling the Turks hastily
+closed their bazaars and houses as that fearful horseman galloped
+through their streets. In a loud voice Marko cried--
+
+"I am here, Yussuf, to answer thy challenge. Wilt thou now come out
+and fight with me?"
+
+But fear filled the heart of the craven Turk, and he sent a woman to
+the window to say that he was away from home. Marko knew this to be a
+lie, and cried so that all should hear him that henceforth the
+challenge was annulled. "I do not fight with cowards," he said, and
+again galloped away unmolested.
+
+Such was the power that superstition had weaved around his person that
+he was commonly believed to be invulnerable, which belief was
+afterwards belied by the fact that he carried two bullets with him to
+the grave.
+
+After this public insult to Yussuf, it was known that he would spare
+no pains to take Marko's life, and a touching episode is told of the
+love which Marko's tribe bore to him. His people were ever ready to
+sacrifice their lives for him, and in this instance it was deemed
+necessary to remove the obnoxious Pasha. Accordingly a cousin of Marko
+journeyed to the Podgorican market with a pistol concealed in a load
+of wood. He lay in wait before Yussuf's house and shot him down as he
+emerged. The Turkish populace literally cut him to pieces--a fate
+which the devoted man well knew would befall him.
+
+This and other events led up to the attack made by the Turkish troops
+on the tribe of Kuc, when, at Fundina, Marko and his small tribe smote
+the Moslems hip and thigh. The rest is a matter of history. He had
+died but a few months before our visit, and by his last wish was
+buried in the little fortress of Medun, which many years ago he had
+stormed at the head of a handful of men under circumstances of great
+bravery.
+
+The ride thither gave us our first taste of the mountains. Rough,
+stony paths through rocky ravines, sometimes skirting deep precipices,
+and all round the intensely wild and magnificent mountains, led us to
+the great gorge where Medun is situated. Perched on a seemingly
+inaccessible crag, stands the famous ruined fortress, and at its foot
+Marko's house.
+
+We were made welcome by his widow, a regal woman of middle age, and
+still strikingly handsome. Her dead husband was not only a great hero,
+but a poet and historian, and one of the most remarkable features of
+his life was that, at the age of forty, he taught himself to write,
+and made his name famous as well in the Serb literary world. He had
+always treated her as his companion, and not as the average
+Montenegrin treats a woman--as a being of inferior quality and a
+better class of servant. Marko had a wonderful character; a great
+athlete, perfect rifle-shot, and a military warrior and leader of men,
+he brought home during his campaigns over one hundred Turkish heads;
+but he was also a refined gentleman, a true poet, and merciful to his
+enemies. He was a notable exception in the matter of prisoners--he
+always let them go unharmed, sometimes escorting them himself to a
+place of safety.
+
+Our visit gave much gratification to his widow, who was pleased that
+strangers from such a distant land should wish to visit her husband's
+grave, and she was hospitality itself.
+
+After a rest and food in her house, she conducted us herself up the
+steep winding path to the grave. We came abruptly upon a small plateau
+in front of a tiny chapel. The scene was striking in the extreme.
+There was the grave, with a rough pile of stones at the head, on which
+were placed the dead man's "handjar," revolver and sword, and many
+wreaths. Two lighted candles were flickering in the wind, and in a
+semicircle stood a group of rough, fully-armed mountaineers, the
+retainers of the Voivoda. It was stormy, and great gusts of wind and
+rain dashed round the rocky fortress, and in the distance a rugged
+pile of mountain peaks towered up into the descending mist.
+
+The widow left us, and, kneeling at the grave, quietly kissed the cold
+stones, praying for a few moments in deep silence. Not a man spoke or
+moved as we stood with bared heads and waited. Slowly rising, she came
+to us and led us into the chapel, a bare shell, not even furnished
+with an altar, and with the original earthen floor.
+
+"My beloved husband wished to be buried in here," said the widow, "but
+it was not allowed. The Prince wished him to be buried in Podgorica,
+as he was never courtier and was so beloved and honoured by his
+people--more than the Prince himself. But my husband called me to his
+side, and with his last breath made me swear to bury him in this
+chapel, or at least in front of it. And when the order came that he
+should be buried below, I swore to shoot myself on his grave, and the
+men of Kuc swore to take his body up here, even if they had to fight
+every inch of the way. So it was allowed that he should be buried
+here, but we shall bury him in the chapel, for that I promised him as
+he died."
+
+And she took my hand solemnly in hers, illustrating her oath to the
+dying man, and I shivered in that gloomy chamber as her impassioned
+voice echoed in its arches.
+
+Suddenly a wailing of women broke upon the utter silence which ensued,
+and nearer and nearer came that weird singing as it approached the
+summit. The women were chanting Marko's death dirge. At last, as they
+passed the little window, we went outside and saw four women,
+dishevelled and weeping, approach the grave, kneeling on one side. The
+widow left us again and knelt alone opposite.
+
+One woman only sang at a time, a series of extempore verses telling of
+the life and deeds of the hero--his accomplishments and goodness--in
+the poetical language of this wild people.
+
+"Oh, thou grey falcon, who was so mighty a hunter as thou?"
+
+"Who indeed shall now wield thy bloodstained sword?"
+
+"Oh, thou wolf, who is worthy to take thy place as our ruler and
+father?"
+
+And the others beat their breasts and tore their hair, wailing in a
+wild unison, until the singer was exhausted and then another began.
+
+Here and there a deep sob broke from a man, but otherwise the ring of
+men with bowed heads remained in dead silence and immovable as the
+rocks around them.
+
+It was one of the most impressive scenes it has been our fortune to
+witness, but we were glad when the widow rose and conducted us back to
+the house. Some letters and poems of the Voivoda were shown to us, and
+one of the letters to a friend then present in the room was read
+aloud. The great rough Montenegrin was so touched at hearing the words
+of his master and lord, that he turned away his head and sobbed. All
+this time the women ceased not with their wild lamentations, and even
+after we took our leave and started on our rough ride home in
+pouring rain, that death dirge followed us, echoing in the ravines
+and mountains.
+
+[Illustration: THE GRAVE SCENE AT MEDUN]
+
+Since then we have often heard the death dirge sung in Montenegro.
+Sometimes in a house in passing; again, an old woman trudging to
+market will sing the death dirge of a relation, perhaps dead many
+years. But we never heard those piercing, wailing notes without having
+the picture of Medun recalled vividly to our memory.
+
+When a man dies he is laid out in the sitting-room, and all the
+friends and relations are summoned. Then the men enter the room singly
+and approach the corpse. Tearing open their shirts they beat
+themselves with their fists on their naked breasts, often tearing the
+flesh with their nails, and give vent to ear-piercing wails. Each
+new-comer strives to outdo his predecessor in excesses, and horrible
+scenes ensue. But the Prince discountenances this custom, and it is
+slowly dying out, but only in the upper classes.
+
+We often took our rifles and went out into the country for a little
+target practice, and always succeeded in attracting a group of
+spectators from adjacent villages or huts. Towards Albania we were
+requested not to go for shooting, as the noise of rifle-shots is apt
+to mislead the surrounding villagers. Even when shooting in other
+directions, we were carefully warned not to fire rapidly, but to shoot
+slowly and deliberately, as at target practice.
+
+Rapid firing is "the alarm," and would mobilise a brigade of infantry
+within an hour or two.
+
+On one occasion we were shooting at a somewhat difficult object about
+one hundred and fifty yards away. We were trying to hit it, standing,
+and had not succeeded. A group of some twenty men had collected, and
+they soon began to make facetious remarks. One offered to bring the
+target nearer. Another said he would stand target for a few shots--we
+shouldn't hit him. So we gave one or two of them our rifles and told
+them to hit it. Immediately they selected stones as rests, and lay
+down for their shot.
+
+"Ah," said we, "we can do that; shoot as we do, standing, and without
+a rest."
+
+"That," they said, "is not shooting--who shoots like that in war?"
+
+But we were inexorable, and needless to say they failed to hit
+anywhere near.
+
+The Montenegrins are good shots enough, if they can take long and
+deliberate aim, steadying their rifles on walls or rocks, but
+otherwise they are miserable marksmen.
+
+Quite close to Podgorica there lives a hermit, a wonderful man who has
+hewn out of the living rock a tiny chapel, a store-room, and a passage
+leading to the chapel. He has only just completed it, and we inscribed
+our names in his new book as his first visitors.
+
+[Illustration: VOIVODA MARKO]
+
+[Illustration: SIMEON POPOVIC AND HIS CHAPEL]
+
+The hermit, a priest of most refined manners and appearance, named
+Simeon Popovic, was most delighted at our visit. He spoke Russian and
+French fluently; his story is quite a little romance.
+
+Before he took Orders he had been a soldier, and was a rich man. It
+was while he was absent on a campaign that his wife eloped and his
+relations robbed him of all his money. He returned home to find
+himself wifeless, dishonoured, and a beggar. Then he became a priest,
+and a vision appeared to him, showing him Daibabe, where he now lives,
+commanding him to go and build a church. He refused the offer of a
+rich priorship and came to this place, possessed of no means whatever
+wherewith to commence his life's work. Unable to buy building
+materials, he began to hollow out a church from the rock, without help
+or money of any kind, beyond that given him by the pious but direly
+poor peasants of the neighbourhood. The labour must have been immense,
+but there it stands a monument to man's perseverance and faith.
+
+Simeon is reckoned as a saint by the peasants; they come to him from
+all parts of the country, bringing their sick, and many cures are said
+to have been effected there. He is a vegetarian, and subsists solely
+on the products of his little garden.
+
+Spuz lies on the River Zeta, and must be reached by a bridge. It is
+always safer to dismount when crossing a Montenegrin bridge, off the
+main roads. This was no exception, but the scenery was delightful.
+Rising immediately at the back of the village is a steep hill crowned
+by a mighty fortress. It was held formerly by the Turks, and the
+peasants say that it was built by them; but the architecture is
+distinctly Venetian and an exact counterpart of many fortresses in
+Dalmatia.
+
+It is strange, however, for there are no records that the Venetians
+ever came further inland than Scutari.
+
+The inn at Spuz, where we dined, was as other country inns (or krcma,
+or han, as they are locally termed from the Turkish): earthen floor, a
+bench, a few primitive stools and beds in the only reception-room. The
+table is invariably rickety, so are the stools; but a tablecloth,
+knives and forks are always mysteriously produced for guests even in
+the most out-of-the-way places.
+
+While our repast was being prepared we had a revolver shooting
+competition outside the door, to which the whole village flocked. One
+of the men made a very fine shot from his saddle at a tree-stump in
+the river, about two hundred and fifty yards away, and _hit_ within a
+few feet. It proved the accuracy and carrying distance of the
+Montenegrin revolver.
+
+[Illustration: SPUZ]
+
+After our meal, consisting of raw ham, eggs (oh, those everlasting
+eggs!), and a peculiar and nondescript kind of meat, about which we
+asked no questions, the village captain called on us and bore us off
+to his house for coffee.
+
+This man, a Turkish renegade, was one of the most interesting men whom
+we met. He was a marvellous talker--in fact, he never stopped during
+our visit. How the subject came up has passed my memory, but suddenly
+he rushed out of the room and brought back a handful of little medals.
+
+"Look," he said, "each medal represents a human life, a head. We have
+these given us for every head we bring back in war. Do you think I am
+proud of them, and there are more than fifty? No, I weep when I see
+them. When I had seized my foe by his hair preparatory to cutting off
+his head, a vision of his mother, his wife, and his sisters appeared
+before me, and I could have wept as I struck off his head. Why should
+I kill this man? I asked myself. I know him not, he has done me no
+harm, yet because it is war, arranged by princes and kings, we must
+become murderers. And why should I kill him? because others would
+misconstrue my act of mercy if I did it not, and brand me a coward,
+aye and worse, a traitor. Why should _I_ make that mother childless?
+why must _I_ rob that loving wife of her husband? Why _I_ be the means
+of making those little children fatherless and orphans?"
+
+I confess the picture that he conjured up of solemnly and with
+streaming eyes cutting off his enemies' heads--and he had owned to
+over fifty--as he thought of destitute homes and weeping women and
+children, seemed decidedly tragi-comic; but the old man was earnest
+enough, and was quite unconscious of the grim humour of the situation.
+
+"Why," he went on, excitedly pacing the room, "why do not the German
+Emperor and the King of England fight out their quarrels _alone_? Why
+drag thousands of men from their homes and farms to fight _their_
+quarrels?"
+
+Again the idea of our King fighting a solemn duel, with perhaps
+Maxims, over a question of an island in the Pacific, with the German
+Emperor, while admiring millions looked on and applauded, caused a
+smile which we with difficulty repressed from diplomatic reasons.
+
+He took his scimitar now in his hand.
+
+"Look, too, at the generals," he said excitedly, "directing battles
+from safe places, while hundreds of innocent lives are thrown away in
+an assault which that general has ordered from his place of safety.
+Once," he went on--"I was fighting for the Turks then, and commanded a
+body of soldiers--a general came to me, saying, 'Storm that hill,' and
+I answered, 'No; thou art our leader, lead us to the assault.' And he
+refused, saying, 'How can I direct the battle if I lead this
+attack--who shall take my place if I fall?' And I drew my sword"--and
+here he suited his action to his words--"and said I would kill him if
+he did not take his true position as leader of men and lead us to the
+attack--then I and my men would follow wherever he went. And the
+general, who was a brave man, led us to the assault and fell--but we
+took the hill and the battle was won."
+
+It was strange talk to hear from such a man, little better than a
+savage, yet unlike any of his adopted countrymen. That man in a
+civilised country would have made himself known and even celebrated.
+
+Not far from Podgorica, at the junction of the rivers Moraca and Zeta,
+lie the remains of the once famous Dioclea or Dukla, as it is locally
+called. The town is of Roman origin, and was surrounded by a complete
+moat, which the Romans formed by digging a channel between the rivers.
+It must have been a place of immense strength in the olden days, but
+successive generations of warfare, which raged so pitilessly in this
+district, have levelled it to the ground, and to-day little or nothing
+can be seen from the adjoining roadway. On approaching there is also
+very little to be seen, here and there a wall, and small fragments of
+mosaic floors. Coins and other relics are still found in large
+quantities, and it seems a pity that excavation, which could do so
+much, has been only carried on in a very halting and desultory manner.
+Legend and history relate that the famous Roman Emperor Diocletian was
+born here, and gave his name to the town. The district of Dioclea,
+which was one of the seven confederate Serb states formed by Heraclius
+to repel the attacks of the Avars, is in reality the germ of modern
+Montenegro.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baco, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting
+on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated
+nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The
+priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica.
+
+
+One market day, walking through the streets of Podgorica, we overheard
+a strange conversation. A Montenegrin Turk was sitting on a stone,
+when two Albanians approached him. Touching his revolver, one of the
+Albanians said--
+
+"Sooner than own the whole of Montenegro, would I empty _this_ into
+thy body."
+
+The Turk, a small man, with slightly grey hair, looked up, and said
+indifferently--
+
+"And thy desire is mine."
+
+So they separated.
+
+Almost immediately an acquaintance joined us, and we asked him the
+meaning.
+
+"That man," said he, "is the famous Achmet Uiko. A terrible man, who
+has killed many men, and at the present moment there is an enormous
+sum of money on his head in Albania."
+
+We then went to him, and asked him to come to our hotel to-morrow, and
+to tell us the story of his life. He consented readily, saying that
+he would be with us at nine next morning, "if," he added
+significantly, "nothing occurred to detain him."
+
+It happened that evening that an Englishman arrived on a short tour
+through the country, believing firmly that everything was as safe and
+as orderly as the average stranger thinks. A Turkish girl had been
+abducted from her home shortly before, and the town was in a state of
+great excitement, as it was the second case within the last few weeks.
+A rising of the Turkish inhabitants was feared nightly, and the house
+where the girl was confined--previous to her marriage with her
+Montenegrin lover--was carefully guarded by a score of armed
+Montenegrins.
+
+We took the Englishman to this house, and as we were showing him the
+men with rifles around the doors and windows, we heard sounds of a
+sharp rifle fire some distance away on the border. Not long afterwards
+a Montenegrin doubled into the town with a report that heavy firing
+had been taking place at the village of Dinos. Nothing further came of
+it, but our countryman went to bed with other ideas of Montenegro.
+
+We awaited Achmet next morning, but at nine he had not arrived, and we
+began to wonder, as the hours went by, if his fate had at last
+overtaken him. But at noon he turned up, as quiet and self-possessed
+as yesterday, and excused himself in the following way. The Albanians
+who had expressed such murderous desires upon him yesterday at the
+market lived in Dinos, and he had spent the night in emptying his
+magazine rifle repeatedly into their village.
+
+"To show these dogs," he concluded, "that they cannot express such
+wishes to me with impunity."
+
+His story, which is given shortly here, was taken down from his lips,
+but it is impossible to reproduce the man's quaint phraseology. He
+spoke in an indifferent way, and detailed all the circumstances in a
+most matter-of-fact manner and without the faintest trace of boasting.
+
+He was born in Podgorica, then Turkish, and at fifteen fought in his
+first battle, killing three men. At seventeen he had a fight in the
+town, and was forced to flee to Scutari, where, shortly afterwards, he
+entered the Turkish service as a gendarme. He took unto himself a
+wife, but finding her faithless, he laid a trap to catch her and her
+lover together, when he killed them both. After this Achmet returned
+to Podgorica, where he was at once seized and imprisoned for his
+original offence, but he soon broke out and fled to the Albanian
+mountains. Here he lived as a robber until things began to get too hot
+for him, and he fled to Bosnia. In Bosnia he was the guest of a Serb,
+who befriended him, and when a Turk seduced his benefactor's wife, he
+killed the Turk to show his gratitude, and again was forced to flee
+the country. He next turned up in Antivari, where he was promptly
+imprisoned, but he overpowered the warder, took his rifle, and again
+escaped.
+
+At this time the town captain of Dulcigno had been murdered, in
+revenge for a deadly insult, by a young Kuc, named Jovan, and Achmet
+was sent for, on the promise of pardon if he would follow Jovan into
+Albania and kill him. This he did, bringing Jovan's head with him as
+evidence. For this he received a large reward, and the Prince of
+Montenegro, having heard of him and his deeds, sent for him, pardoning
+all his previous offences, besides giving him one hundred napoleons.
+
+Achmet now settled down at his present home near Podgorica, but was
+caught by the Turks and imprisoned on a false charge for four months,
+when he was able to prove an alibi.
+
+Achmet fought in many border fights with the Montenegrins against the
+Albanians and distinguished himself greatly. Two Albanians once
+attacked the son of a famous standard-bearer, whose life he saved,
+capturing the assailants alive and bringing them into Podgorica. For
+this act the Prince gave him an old fortress for his home, and where
+he still lives.
+
+Later on Jovan's brother, whom he had killed near Dulcigno, came early
+one morning to Achmet and fired at him; but Achmet caught him, and
+again brought his prisoner alive into the town, where he received ten
+years' imprisonment. These deeds are all the more remarkable as he
+brought his captures alive and delivered them over to justice. It is,
+firstly, not customary to take men alive; secondly, the feat is of
+extreme difficulty, for men fight to a finish in these lands.
+
+Achmet is known to disappear periodically for several weeks, but of
+these affairs he would say nothing. But the most striking and romantic
+episode of this marvellous man's life has yet to be told.
+
+Recently he was caught by his now arch enemies, the Turks, and
+imprisoned in the powerful fortress of Tusi, a few miles from
+Podgorica. Not content with putting on the usual extremely heavy
+chains, they added to their prisoner a second set of fetters. But
+friends smuggled into his possession a file, concealed in a loaf of
+bread. He filed through his chains, and the day previous to his escape
+he noticed a lot of straw bedding lying at the foot of the fortress
+walls. That night he completed the filing of the fetters, broke open
+the cell-door, and rushing through the sleeping soldiers he jumped the
+wall, landing without hurt on the pile of straw bedding below. Though
+fired at and pursued, he escaped unhurt.
+
+We heard many such stories, but the story of Achmet was certainly the
+best, and these men do not lie. As the man took his leave, he gave us
+a pressing invitation to visit his fortress home in the mountains.
+
+"I will slaughter my best lamb," he added, as a special inducement.
+
+There was another highly interesting personality living in Podgorica,
+an ex-Albanian chief and refugee from his country, named Sokol Baco.
+This fine old fellow, standing well over six feet, looked fifty
+instead of his sixty-five years, and had an equally interesting past.
+As a youth he had fought in many battles for the Turks, and was
+eventually selected with five other young men of high standing for the
+personal bodyguard of the Sultan. While on leave, which he was
+spending in his Albanian home, the order came for the disarming of the
+whole of Albania. Sokol's tribe refused, as did most of these warlike
+clans, though Sokol advised obedience. But his clan remained obdurate,
+and he was placed in the awkward predicament of being either
+considered a traitor by his countrymen or by his Sovereign. Sokol
+threw in his lot with his clan, and led them in battle against a
+Turkish force; but though he fought like a lion, the clan were
+defeated, and he was forced to fly. For many years Sokol lived in the
+Albanian mountains, half robber and wholly patriot; but the pursuit
+became too keen, and he came to Podgorica, where he entered the
+service of Prince Nicolas. His new Prince he serves loyally, and is
+highly esteemed in Montenegro, where he will doubtless end his
+days.
+
+[Illustration: ACHMET UIKO]
+
+[Illustration: SOKOL BACO]
+
+While still comparatively new to the country, we once went for a
+week's shooting to the Lake of Scutari. Water-fowl abound there in
+marvellous numbers, consisting chiefly of crane, heron, thousands of
+duck, and a fair number of pelicans.
+
+We had selected the island of Vranjina for our headquarters, known in
+history as the site of a famous treaty signed there between the
+Montenegrins and Venetians in the first half of the fifteenth century.
+It lies at the north or Montenegrin end of the lake.
+
+As we were given to understand that we could drive to the lake, or at
+least to the River Moraca, and thence take boat to the island, we
+loaded our carriage with ample luggage. With our guide's usual and
+admirable mismanagement, we were landed after a two hours' drive on
+the banks of the Moraca, unable to get further without the carriage
+toppling down a steep bank into the rapid river. The driver
+unceremoniously bundled our traps on to the ground and drove happily
+off. The only person in sight was a diminutive girl, whom the guide
+promptly impressed into our service, and an appalling load was heaped
+upon her. Then a small boy appeared, and so we were able to make
+another start. The day was exceedingly hot, but we got some shooting
+to make up for it. We crossed the river in a crazy ferry, found some
+men, and later on a boat, and reached the famous village of Zabljak
+about one o'clock. The village is still overlooked by a formidable
+fortress, but in the rude collection of huts it was hard to see the
+ancient capital of Montenegro, the home of the famous Black Prince
+dynasty.
+
+One of the most wretched inns that it was our lot to find in
+Montenegro received us and our baggage. The village of course turned
+out to inspect us, and watched us eat our meal with interest. It was
+of the usual kind, consisting of eggs, raw ham, eggs, and dessert of
+_more_ hard-boiled eggs, washed down with a remarkably sour wine.
+
+After this repast we retired for a short nap into the room beyond. P.
+was tired and got on one bed, but I, displaying more caution, lifted
+the pillow before I trusted myself to the arms of Morpheus. My
+fore-sight was rewarded better than I deserved, and I had P. off his
+bed in the twinkling of an eye. As an explanation which his
+threatening attitude demanded at once, I silently lifted his pillow.
+It likewise teemed with life, and we postponed our post-prandial
+slumbers till a more fitting occasion.
+
+At the foot of the village the Moraca flowed past, now a formidable
+and swiftly running river. We were amused to see several oxen driven
+into it, and swim serenely to the opposite bank.
+
+Only one small canoe could be found for us, which would ordinarily
+hold one man besides the two paddlers, with comfort. Into it were
+crowded three men and a quantity of baggage. In addition, it leaked,
+and periodically we were turned out on to a muddy and marshy bank
+while the canoe was bailed out.
+
+This end of the lake is very curious, a series of natural canals run
+in all directions through vast swamps which only afford foothold in
+the height of summer. The thrifty peasants utilise the dry season to
+plant fields of maize, for the scorching sun dries these swamps in a
+very short space of time. In the winter or early spring, they are
+nearly or quite under water. As the lake is reached, small islands of
+dense willow trees grow out of the water, and in these islands are
+vast colonies of waterfowl. The effect is decidedly pretty, but very
+irritating to the sportsman, as the birds hide in the centre, and it
+is nearly impossible to force one's way in, even by wading.
+
+We reached our destination, a little chapel with a house for the
+priest adjoining it, locally termed a "manastir," built on a rather
+high and conical hill on the south end of the island of Vranjina. The
+view from the chapel, as we afterwards found, was superb. The whole
+lake spreads out in its vast expanse. Scutari, or rather the hill
+behind which it lies, can be seen dimly in the distance. To the right,
+the Lovcen and the Rumija rear their lofty heads, and divide the lake
+from the Adria beyond. Away to the left the rugged snow-clad Albanian
+Alps stretch as far as the eye can see, piling themselves up in a wild
+and grand confusion. Several green submerged willow islands lay at our
+feet, round which crowds of snow-white cranes were circling. Such was
+our view as we reached the plateau in front of the chapel that
+evening, tired, hungry, and irritated, but still appreciative.
+
+The priest, or "pop," clad in the national costume, as indeed are all
+the country clergy, and only distinguishable from his wild-looking
+parishioners by his uncut hair and beard (the Greek Church do not
+allow their ministers to cut their hair or beards), met us in a
+friendly manner, but absolutely refused to take us in at first. He
+said he had absolutely nothing in the house but a little goat's
+cheese, and no beds. However, we were desperate; to go to the village
+meant another hour's cramp in the canoe, and perhaps no better
+accommodation than here. Here we would stay, and starve.
+
+By dint of much persuasion, the priest produced a mattress, and a man
+was sent down to the village to procure anything that he could find,
+and so we stayed in the monastery a week, and really enjoyed
+ourselves. We used to go out shooting at daybreak in canoes with two
+paddles apiece, and again in the evening, for the heat was
+overpowering about midday.
+
+[Illustration: THE POP OF VRANJINA]
+
+[Illustration: AN ALBANIAN GIRL]
+
+The method of fishing here is distinctly interesting. A large number
+are required to work the net, but they make enormous hauls. The
+procedure is as follows: One large boat is anchored near the shore and
+made fast to trees, and a huge net is taken out and spread in a
+circle, the ends being kept in the stationary boat. Two men, naked,
+stand a few feet from the boat in the water, keeping the sides of the
+net down and preventing the escape of fish as the circle is gradually
+narrowed by the men in the boat slowly pulling it in. The last bit
+requires their united efforts, for it is full of fish, some of
+considerable size. At the conclusion of the "haul" one of the men
+chose two of the largest fish and threw them into my canoe as a
+present; as thanks I lent my tobacco-tin, which they gratefully
+emptied.
+
+Montenegrins carry tobacco in a tin and roll their own cigarettes; no
+other form of smoking is known amongst them, except the tchibouque by
+some of the older men, a relic of Turkish times. The tobacco is
+excellent, being often equal to the best Turkish, and ridiculously
+cheap.
+
+We owe these worthy fisherfolk thanks for having given us one of the
+finest moonlight effects that it has ever been our lot to witness. We
+were returning home late one evening in our canoes, and as we rounded
+a corner of the island we came suddenly on their encampment. The men
+in their ragged but artistic costumes were sitting round numerous
+camp-fires cooking their evening meal on the bank, which sloped gently
+upwards, an old ruined fortress or "kula" forming a background.
+
+As we gazed the moon came slowly over the brow of the intervening
+hill, illuminating the scene with its soft and silvery radiance,
+blending fantastically with the ruddy flames of the fires.
+Cooking-pots steamed and bubbled, and one group of men broke into an
+old Montenegrin fighting song, the water of the vast lake sparkled and
+danced in the distance, and we felt that only we and this rough group
+of fishermen were alive in the world.
+
+It was an idyllic life that we led during our stay at Vranjina, though
+every comfort known to civilisation was lacking. We lived as did the
+hardy fishermen of the island, and a hard life it proved to be. The
+heat, however, was something tremendous, quite precluding any exertion
+from ten in the morning till the late afternoon. We had even in the
+early morning to use the greatest care to keep our necks and arms
+covered from the scorching rays of the sun, for bad blisters and burns
+were the sure reward of carelessness. The concussion of rapid shooting
+combined with the heat often brought on headaches so violent that to
+fire another cartridge was exquisite torture. One thing we did not
+suffer from, and that was loneliness.
+
+The news of our visit spread to all the neighbouring villages, and we
+had a constant stream of visitors. Our swim, which we took after our
+early morning shoot in a delightfully cool spot, where a spring
+bubbled into the lake, was invariably witnessed by a group of
+fishermen, and very much amused they were too over our hair-brushes,
+soap, and other toilet articles.
+
+They sometimes ascribed powers of healing to us, and were evidently
+quite distressed when we endeavoured to impress upon them our entire
+ignorance of medicine. Once a man insisted on baring his leg and
+showing me a horrible wound which would not heal.
+
+Another time the school was marched out from the village of Vranjina,
+probably to have an object-lesson in geography. Doubtless the boys,
+after having seen real live Englishmen, would henceforth display an
+intelligent interest in the position of the British Isles. They came
+and spent a morning with us, and the young teacher, who spoke good
+Italian, asked us many questions, such as a young child asks his
+father, and equally difficult at times to answer.
+
+Our messing arrangements were of the simplest, raw ham and eggs
+forming the staple food. We bought a lamb once, but it only lasted one
+meal, as everyone developed an extraordinary appetite--the parson,
+Lazo our servant, and all the men in the vicinity.
+
+When we left we had the blessing of our worthy priest and fervent
+invitations to return again soon from some of the fishermen. One of
+the men took a great fancy to us, urging us to come to his house in
+Vranjina then and there, and "we would," he said, "drink gallons of
+wine," going on next day. "At any rate," he said, as we gently
+refused, "let us have a big drink together when ye come again."
+
+We arranged our return to Podgorica ourselves, and got back within
+five hours, shooting a fine pelican on the way, which was the last
+shot that we fired on the Lake of Scutari.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+Stephan our servant--Virpazar--The drive over the Sutormann
+Pass--Antivari and Prstan--The beauty of the bay--We are delayed by
+contrary winds--We are rowed to Dulcigno--We make the acquaintance of
+Marko Ivankovic--A story concerning him--We shoot together--An episode
+on a lake--Vaccination--The Turkish inhabitants.
+
+
+For our journey to the sea-coast towns of Antivari (Bar) and Dulcigno
+(Ulcinj) we deemed it advisable to take a servant with us, and our
+choice fell on Stephan, a Hungarian by birth, but a ten years' sojourn
+in the Land of the Black Mountain had completely Montenegrinised him,
+if we may coin a word. As he was our constant companion for several
+months, it would be well to describe him.
+
+Every statement that Stephan made had to be liberally discounted--this
+we found out afterwards--for he was a born liar, and not a skilful one
+at that. He had one marvellous story about a large sum of money lying
+in his name in a bank in Hungary, which he must fetch in person, but
+he could never save enough money to make the journey. This was an
+obvious falsehood. But the story of his coming to Montenegro seemed
+true. He was a sergeant of an Austrian infantry regiment, and had
+attempted to cut down his superior officer in a fit of rage, severing
+his ear with a sabre. He fled to the Montenegrin border, which was
+quite close to his garrison, and has been in Montenegro ever since,
+wearing the national costume and married to a girl of the country.
+Stephan was certainly a most violent-tempered man, but he was often
+entertaining, full of fun, a decent cook, and could sing a host of odd
+songs and snatches picked up in Austrian garrison towns. Otherwise he
+was a thorough Montenegrin, though he considered himself vastly their
+superior. His temper at other times would be vile, but the mastery
+over himself was really great, and after a sharp remonstrance he could
+change his mood completely.
+
+Taking the omnibus of the Anglo-Montenegrin Trading Company, rudely
+dubbed "the Hearse," to Plavnica, the station for Podgorica on the
+Lake of Scutari, we transferred our luggage to a huge barge, or
+"londra," and were slowly punted out on to the lake through one of
+those extraordinary canals which intersect the marshy land at this end
+of the lake. There the good ship _Danitza_, owned by the same company,
+awaited us, and conveyed us to Virpazar, past our island of Vranjina
+and its little chapel.
+
+[Illustration: VIRPAZAR]
+
+Virpazar is the scene of the Montenegrin Vespers in 1702, and one of
+the richest villages in the district. Prettily situated up a long
+estuary of the lake, it is nothing but a collection of about twenty
+small houses, with arched ground floors, the people living on the
+first floor. The village is frequently flooded in the winter.
+
+The importance of this village lies in the fact that it is the
+connecting link--and a very bad one at that--between the rest of
+Montenegro and the sea. But no road connects it with the mainland, and
+travellers from Cetinje or Podgorica must take the steamer from either
+Rijeka or Plavnica to Virpazar, and from thence a good road leads over
+the Sutormann Pass to Antivari. A road which is being built between
+Virpazar and Rijeka will supply a long-felt want. At present, when the
+Prince or Crown Prince wish to visit their favourite residence on the
+sea at Topolica, near Antivari, the horses have to be sent by a
+roundabout mountain path from Rijeka, taking many hours, while the
+Princes take steamer and have a tedious wait in the inn at Virpazar.
+
+To this inn we went--there was no choice about it; it is the only one,
+and, moreover, there is but a single room for guests, serving as
+dining and sleeping apartment. Though we arrived at midday, we had to
+wait till the following day at noon for the postcart--twenty-four
+hours in this very uninteresting hole.
+
+But we hobnobbed with the local grandees, for there is the district
+law court here (the captain and magistrate have their residences in
+the village), and managed to pass the time fairly agreeably. In the
+evening we sat under the trees in front of our humble yet princely
+hostel, and talked of many things to our newly made friends. The frogs
+in the marshes made a terrific noise, almost drowning our
+conversation.
+
+Next morning we entered the post-chaise, in which we had wisely booked
+all the four seats, and made a start on our six hours' drive. What
+would have happened had other travellers arrived is hard to imagine. A
+wait of forty-eight hours till the next post went would have probably
+caused annoyance, and this carriage was literally the only means of
+conveyance on this side of Montenegro. It goes one day and returns the
+next. Fortunately, passengers are extremely rare. The drive was of
+great interest, winding up in a series of sweeping curves between
+magnificent hills. The ridge on our left was the site of a great
+battle in the last war, when a small Montenegrin force dislodged a
+large Turkish army and captured Antivari and the long-coveted sea. The
+danger and recklessness of the feat was apparent from the road, and it
+was evidently not expected by the Turks, for a false step on those
+rocky heights meant certain death.
+
+[Illustration: ANTIVARI ON BAR]
+
+The top of the Sutormann Pass (2,700 feet) was reached in about four
+hours, and now the deep blue Adria was spread out before us, and our
+tortuous descent commenced. Commanding the pass still stands a mighty
+but much-battered fortress, taken by the gallant Montenegrins in
+that memorable battle. But nowhere could the historical old town and
+fortress of Bar, or Antivari, be seen. In fact, not till we were
+within a few hundred yards of the town, was a single house in view. It
+is hidden from sight in a hollow, surrounded by a forest of olive
+trees.
+
+All of a sudden the carriage drew up at a recently built stone house,
+ornamented with the trophies of war. Piles of cannon-balls, old
+cannon, splinters of shells are tastefully arranged on the walls.
+Immediately in front of us stood the once famous fortress of Bar, now
+a shot-riddled and ruined mass of stone, a mere shell of its former
+strength.
+
+Even then the town is hardly apparent, but in a few seconds one enters
+it down a steep and slippery path of well-worn stones. On either side
+are Turkish bazaars, out of which Turkish faces peer at the infidel
+dogs. There is very little of the Montenegrin element apparent. We
+only walked through the town once, as our destination was Prstan, the
+actual seaport of Antivari.
+
+We were somewhat rudely disillusioned. After an hour's drive along a
+flat and ugly road, we espied a collection of some half a dozen
+houses. Two or three of them are large and modern in appearance but
+that was all. Was this, then, Antivari, Montenegro's important seaport
+and the bone of contention with Austria?
+
+Right well has Austria maintained its control of this little port. One
+large house is that of the Austrian Vice-Consul, who lives in solitary
+state, watching everyone who passes through the port. Opposite, on the
+further horn of the bay, lies Spizza, an Austrian military station.
+Antivari is, indeed, but Montenegrin in name.
+
+Right on the shore and in the centre of the large bay stands a white
+house, a short distance from the Austrian frontier, which is Topolica,
+the favourite residence of the Crown Prince. Square, undecorated, and
+uninteresting, it is almost an exact counterpart of the other
+Montenegrin royal residences. Yet its position is superb. From either
+corner of the bay, where the mountains meet the sea, stretches an
+unbroken chain of mountain peaks, rugged and forbidding, but extremely
+picturesque. Witnessed at sunset when the soft lights mellow the sharp
+outlines, and the sombreness of the mountains is tinged with red, the
+fascination which this place holds for this lover of nature, Prince
+Danilo, can be well understood. We spent two days revelling in its
+wild solitariness.
+
+Our hotel was distinctly quaint, but we were very comfortable. Again
+we had but one room for all, but it was clean, and the hostess, an
+Austrian, an excellent cook.
+
+We hoped to have started on our further journeys the following day,
+and found a small sailing vessel anchored in the bay; the captain
+consenting to take us on to Dulcigno. It was an Albanian boat, manned
+by about half a dozen cut-throats, and in spite of warnings we
+arranged to leave next day. Anything would be preferable to a ride of
+eight hours over mountain tracks on mules to Dulcigno; and we were all
+well armed.
+
+But the next day brought contrary winds, and we were forced to spend
+another day in Prstan. That day a large Italian steamer arrived and
+anchored in the bay, to take Prince Nicolas to Italy for the
+christening of his little granddaughter. Shortly before dark he
+arrived, attended by two adjutants, and after speaking a few words to
+the harbour captain, who respectfully kissed his hand, embarked in a
+boat, and was pulled on board the steamer. We were again struck with
+the immense breadth of his figure, clad in a long, grey military
+overcoat, which makes him look much shorter than he really is. He is
+really a typical-looking prince of a race of freeborn mountaineers. As
+he receded from the shore, we drew our revolvers and joined in the
+parting fusillade, shouting "Zivio" as lustily as any of the little
+handful who had awaited him.
+
+The agent of the Austrian Lloyd Steamship Company came to our rescue
+on the following morning, as the Albanian boat made no preparations
+for starting, and offered to take us in his own boat to Dulcigno.
+This we gladly accepted, and about midday started in his large and
+roomy boat, built for sailing or for rowing, and manned by four
+Montenegrin sailors.
+
+The wind failed us most of the way, and our four men propelled us with
+long oars or sweeps which are worked standing up and facing them, a
+method of rowing common in the Adriatic. It is a splendid exercise,
+but like everything else it wants practice, as we speedily found out
+when we took a turn.
+
+Coffee, without which no true Montenegrin can exist, was made _en
+route_, and proved highly acceptable.
+
+Luckily we had taken a supply of food with us, though we had been told
+that we should be in Dulcigno for supper, and this again we devoured
+with ravenous appetites as the long hours wore on. The coast was
+monotonous, a never-varying bank of hills descending to the water's
+edge. Here and there a tiny village could be seen, but otherwise no
+life, and little vegetation.
+
+Not till nine o'clock in the evening did we reach Dulcigno, and the
+impression that the lights in the houses on the hillsides made is not
+easily to be forgotten. It seemed like a colony of spacious and
+luxurious villas on well-wooded slopes. In pitch dark we arrived at a
+quay, and groped our way out of the boat, and were led to the inn.
+Great knockings and shoutings summoned the innkeeper from his early
+slumbers. While waiting in the darkness below, the Turkish muezzins
+ascended the many minarets, and began the evening call to prayer. The
+weird chanting from so many voices (there are seven mosques in
+Dulcigno) in the otherwise utter stillness had a most uncanny effect.
+
+It was a strange arrival.
+
+Our inn was slightly less primitive than the preceding ones. We had a
+tiny bedroom apiece, and there was a room downstairs for eating
+purposes, though we were always able to take our meals outside under
+the trees.
+
+Dulcigno, or Ulcinj, is certainly the prettiest town in Montenegro,
+though it is to all intents and purposes Turkish in appearance. Built
+partly on a hill overlooking the sea, it descends into a small bay
+where the occasional passing steamers anchor. Well wooded and hilly,
+it is really a delightful spot, though the Turkish element may or may
+not detract from its beauty according to personal taste. The irregular
+houses, the mosques with their slender towers, the bazaar, and the
+gaily-dressed if dirty crowds that circulated between the rows of
+shops--gave a distinctly pleasing effect. The heavily-veiled women,
+wearing in addition to the veil a thick cloth cape with a capacious
+hood, amused us greatly, for on meeting us, lest our bold eyes should
+pierce their disguise, they would stop and turn their faces to the
+wall. What these poor creatures suffer from the heat in these
+ponderous cloaks can only be imagined, and Dulcigno is by no means
+cold.
+
+Though the fantastic picture conjured up the night of our arrival by
+the twinkling lights, peeping out of the dark foliage, on the hillside
+was not realised, still the entirely different picture of the reality
+was equally pleasing.
+
+We called the next morning on the harbour captain, an Austrian and
+ex-sea-captain, who received us most kindly and courteously. Through
+him we were at once able to make the acquaintance of one Marko
+Ivankovic, a hunter of great prowess, whom we immediately engaged to
+attend us for the shooting in the neighbourhood.
+
+Now, though we will not go so far as to say that he was the sole
+object of our visit to Dulcigno, still he did certainly influence our
+plans. Once, during our very first stay at Podgorica, we met an
+Austrian ornithologist and sportsman who told us a wonderful
+experience of his at Dulcigno with this very man, Marko Ivankovic. He
+had come to Dulcigno one night by steamer, to spend a few months in
+this paradise for sportsmen, and as he entered a lowly inn, a man of
+almost repellent aspect sat brooding gloomily, evidently lost in a fit
+of abstraction. This man gave no greeting to the new-comer, who sat
+down at the further end of the table and ordered food. Shortly
+afterwards the man rose and silently left the room. An hour later this
+same man reappeared in the doorway, cap in hand, and humbly asked
+permission of the ornithologist to seat himself at the same table. The
+permission was readily given, and the man (it was Marko) came near and
+attempted to kiss L.'s coat. This action signifies the greatest
+humility, and is only accorded to persons of the highest rank. L.
+remonstrated strongly, saying--
+
+"Why dost thou kiss my coat? I am a man like thyself, and no prince.
+What wouldst thou from me?"
+
+"Sir, I see that thou art a hunter (L. had his dogs with him), and I
+would fain be thy servant."
+
+L. wanted a man, and from his conversation he soon gathered that this
+was no inexperienced huntsman, and so they spoke of terms. But Marko
+at first would not hear of anything of the sort, saying he would serve
+for nothing. Naturally L. refused to accept his services gratis, and
+at last an arrangement was made that Marko should first prove his
+capabilities and serve a term of probation. Even then Marko refused to
+take money, but a present of a gun or some article to the value of his
+services at so much a day.
+
+With this plan L. was forced to be content, and two days afterwards
+the expeditions into the neighbouring country were commenced. To tell
+the story in L.'s own words:--[2]
+
+"After we had been together some weeks Marko became gloomy and cast
+down, unlike his usual merry self. It was no easy task to persuade him
+to tell me what was the matter. It appeared that he was in debt, and
+should not the money be paid very shortly, his house and all that was
+his would be seized. Of course I gave him the money, which happened to
+be more than his due up to that day, and he took it as a loan. This
+condition he insisted on, and I laughingly assented."
+
+It was then that we first heard of Achmed Uiko, who told us the story
+of his life in Podgorica. Jovan, of the tribe Kuc, had been publicly
+beaten in Dulcigno at this time, and in revenge had shot the Governor,
+who had ordered this ignominious punishment. Jovan had fled to
+Alessio, in Albania, with a price upon his head, and certain persons
+came to Marko to beg him to follow the assassin and bring back his
+head. Marko was then in L.'s service, and confided his dilemma to his
+master, who told him that if he but harboured such thoughts he was not
+fit to be his servant. Marko then refused, and Achmed Uiko accepted,
+murdering Jovan in a boat while fishing, and the head was subsequently
+displayed in Dulcigno. This is a noteworthy episode, for it led to the
+abolition of corporal punishment and of the barbarous custom of
+displaying heads on poles.
+
+[Footnote 2: This story was published in the _Wide World Magazine_,
+and is reproduced with the Editor's permission.]
+
+To return, however, to the story:--
+
+"After several weeks I made a day's tour with Marko to the Bojana. At
+the mouth of the river, which you know is the outlet of the Lake of
+Scutari, a large island has been formed by a stranded ship which sank
+there, and all the debris, logs, and other rubbish have formed a delta
+of some size upon the wreck. It abounds in game, and thither we
+journeyed one morning early, reaching it some few hours later by a
+small boat in which we ferried ourselves across. During the day a
+great storm sprang up, precluding all chance of returning to the
+mainland that evening. In a hut of boughs we spent a miserable night,
+drenched to the skin by the incessant rain. Not till towards evening
+of the following day could we recross, and it was bright moonlight
+when we commenced our weary tramp, heavily laden and wet, to Dulcigno.
+The neighbourhood is dangerous, both Albanians and Montenegrins shoot
+at sight, and care must always be exercised.
+
+"Perhaps we had covered half the distance, when Marko suddenly and
+without a word of warning threw the bags and other things he was
+carrying to the ground. 'It is a dog's life, nay worse, that I lead
+with thee. My health is ruined, my clothes spoilt, and not a kreutzer
+do I get.'
+
+"I was furious at the man's infamous lie, for he was still several
+guldens to the good, and even more so at the disadvantage he had taken
+over me. Here we were alone in a wild and dangerous district, miles
+from home, and not a human being near.
+
+"'Thou liest, thou ungrateful dog. Thou art an ass without a face.'
+
+"As I said this in my rage--it is a terrible insult to call a man a
+faceless ass--Marko's face was transformed with speechless fury. His
+high cheek-bones and black curly hair always made him unprepossessing,
+for his was a distinctly negro type of face, and now with his lips
+drawn back like a snarling wolf, disclosing his yellow teeth and
+gleaming eyeballs, he looked like a fiend incarnate. I shudder now
+when I recall that moonlit scene.
+
+"His hand dropped like lightning on the butt of his revolver, but in
+the moment I had sprung back a pace and covered him with my gun, which
+I was luckily carrying cocked.
+
+"'Thy hand from the revolver,' I cried, 'or thou art a dead man.'
+Slowly his hand sank to his side. 'Pick up those things at once and
+carry them before me, or as sure as there is a God in heaven I will
+shoot thee like the dog thou art.'
+
+"As if every movement was of the greatest exertion he picked up the
+traps, saying as he did so, 'Thou shalt remember these insults.'
+
+[Illustration: MARKO IVANKOVIC]
+
+[Illustration: THE BRIDGE AT RIJEKA]
+
+"'Be still!' I cried, covering him with my gun, 'and now precede me.'
+
+"And in this fashion we returned to my house. He threw the load into a
+corner of the room, and at the door he returned and repeated his
+warning, vanishing in the darkness.
+
+"From this time onwards I shot alone. Try as I would I could get no
+one to come with me, and this I put down to the worthy Marko's
+influence. Thrice I saw him while out shooting, but only once within
+speaking distance. I then called to him 'Marko, I know thou wilt try
+and kill me; but listen, I am married and have a wife and child at
+home. For their sakes I ask thee to shoot at me from the front, and
+thus give me a chance to defend myself.'
+
+"He smiled strangely again, saying, 'Thou wilt remember thy insults,'
+and disappeared.
+
+"I always took cover when I saw him, but nothing happened, and the eve
+of my departure arrived. The steamer left in the early morning, and
+just as dawn was breaking and I was still in bed Marko entered the
+room. He approached my bed, and laid upon the table by my head the sum
+of money I had advanced him to repay his debt. Then he spoke:--
+
+"'I saidst that thou wouldst remember the insults thou hast put upon
+me. Here is thy money, and now listen to my story. Thou hadst scarce
+set foot in Dulcigno when thy death was planned by an enemy, and I
+was hired to do the deed. That was why I would take no wages, for I
+was already well paid; besides, it was thought that thou wouldst then
+certainly engage my services. I was to accidentally shoot thee while
+hunting. What more easy than to stumble and for my gun to explode? But
+when I knew thee, then I could not kill thee thus. I tried to provoke
+thee that night, knowing thee to be a violent-tempered man; I provoked
+thee into insulting me. I hoped thou wouldst have struck me, and then
+it would have been easy. Thou wast very near death at that moment, for
+in spite of thy gun I could have shot thee, but thou hadst grown too
+much into my heart. Even in my rage I was powerless. And now here is
+thy money. I have kept my word, and am an honourable man.'
+
+"I sprang from my bed and stopped him. 'Who was my enemy?' I cried.
+
+"'One who knew thee in Bosnia. This man had hoped that thou wouldst
+visit him, and thy coffee was ready poisoned. When I left thy service
+another man was hired to kill thee, but I followed thee wherever thou
+went. Thus didst thou see me these three times.'
+
+"I knew now who my enemy was. A man exiled by the Austrians for
+treasonable practices whilst I was still an official in Bosnia. Marko
+accompanied me to the ship, but not until I swore on my honour to
+otherwise throw the money into the sea would he accept it, and then
+only that which he had actually earned, not a kreutzer more, for I
+would have willingly made him a present. Thus Marko Ivankovic went out
+of my life, but I shall never forget him."
+
+Such was the story we heard one evening in Podgorica, and which we
+were here able to prove in part. When Marko heard that we were friends
+of his former master, his face lighted up with joy, and he kissed our
+hands. During our stay he was always with us, a devoted attendant and
+servant. Another very interesting phase of his life had been spent in
+the Hercegovina, where he fought as an outlaw for many years against
+the Austrians. He still possesses two mementoes of his adventures in
+that land, one in the form of an officer's undress jacket, technically
+called a "blouse," and the other of a more permanent character,
+namely, a maimed hand. He and his band were surprised one night by
+gendarmes, and a fierce hand-to-hand fight ensued, during which an
+Austrian aimed a cut at Marko with his sword. Marko caught the blow on
+his hand and held the blade fast, but the gendarme drew back the
+weapon sharply and severed all the tendons of his hand. Marko cannot
+now open his hand, but his wounder was sped to the happy
+hunting-grounds there and then, as he modestly relates.
+
+Shooting of the same kind as on the Lake of Scutari is to be found in
+abundance all round Dulcigno. Unfortunately the Bojana and the
+afore-mentioned island at its mouth was closed to us. The evening of
+our arrival two men had been shot there, and it is doubtful, even had
+we insisted on going, whether the authorities would have permitted it.
+It is not good to visit localities just after shooting affrays. In
+this instance the peasants on both sides were excited, and we
+reluctantly gave up the trip to which we had looked forward for some
+time. However, there was plenty left to shoot over, and we had much
+good sport with pelican, duck, and crane.
+
+One rather unpleasant incident occurred during our stay, which very
+nearly ended seriously.
+
+The lakes and swamps over which we shot lay at about an hour and a
+half's walk from the town, and it was necessary to be there by
+daybreak. We had ordered our paddlers to await us one morning at dawn,
+and on our arrival were considerably annoyed to find no one there but
+a boy. After a short wait we started, taking the boy and the larger
+londra, or canoe, Marko and Stephan paddling as well. A longer delay
+would have spoilt our morning, as the fowl disappear long before the
+sun is well up in the heavens. About an hour later we discerned a boat
+paddling furiously towards us, and, coming alongside, the inmates
+proved to be our missing crew. Seizing our canoe, the spokesman
+addressed our boy, abusing him roundly, saying he had stolen his
+canoe, and demanded the paddles peremptorily. The boy looked at us
+helplessly, and naturally refused, for we were in the middle of a
+lake. The man then became livid with rage, rocked our canoe violently,
+threatening to overturn us into the water. Then his hand dropped on
+his revolver, and in his face appeared unmistakably the lust to kill.
+All this passed so quickly that we had listened to the altercation in
+open-mouthed astonishment. The rage and violence took us utterly by
+surprise, for nothing of the kind had ever happened to us before from
+the naturally courteous Montenegrins. However, now the man's rage
+communicated itself to us, and in the twinkling of an eye both Marko
+and myself had covered him with our firearms--we both had guns at our
+side--and Stephan began to talk. Stephan was a violent-tempered man,
+and now he let himself go. He spoke for some minutes, and it was
+lurid. The muzzle of my carbine began to wobble, for his fluency and
+comprehensiveness were distinctly amusing, while our attacker, who
+soon let go the butt of his revolver, listened with pained but
+undisguised admiration. "And now, thou accursed one," wound up
+Stephan, after he had paid attention, in his burst of eloquence, to
+the man's family, antecedents, personal appearance, and probable
+future, "go back to the hotel, and await my master's return! Thou
+knowest the law. For even laying the hand on thy revolver in anger,
+and against strangers in our land, thou wilt be thrown into prison,
+and thou wilt receive ten months. I will come and see thee, and listen
+to the music of thy clanking chains, and we will talk of to-day's
+doings!" By the time Stephan had finished, abject fear was depicted on
+the man's face, and his companions showed signs of having heard
+enough. Murmuring apologies, they sheered off, and with a slow and
+thoughtful rhythm paddled back the way they had come.
+
+On our return to the inn several hours later the three men were
+standing stiffly outside the door, cap in hand and thoroughly scared.
+He who had attacked us spoke tremblingly, offering as an excuse that
+they had fished all night and had but gone for some food before taking
+us out again. They were direly poor, he said, and the fear of losing
+their wages had upset them, the long night without sleep had destroyed
+their powers of reasoning, and--would we forgive them for the
+dastardly outrage? Needless to say we dismissed them, as do the
+magistrates, with a caution.
+
+We met amongst other Montenegrin officials the district doctor, an
+interesting man of varied experience. At his invitation we witnessed
+the annual vaccination, which is compulsory in Montenegro.
+
+[Illustration: VACCINATION]
+
+[Illustration: BAZAAR LIFE, DULCIGNO]
+
+Outside the door of the principal mosque the doctor and his
+assistants and some other officials took up their position one morning
+and waited. Shortly afterwards crowds of children appeared on the
+scene, mostly in charge of their Turkish fathers or elder brothers,
+some of the latter scarcely able to carry their little burdens. Very
+rarely a Turkish mother appeared, closely veiled, but the Christian
+mothers invariably came; that is, the Albanian Christians from the
+outlying villages. Very quaint are these women in a most picturesque
+costume and carrying their infants in a cumbersome and unwieldy cradle
+slung on their backs. It was a very varied assortment of babies which
+was presented to the doctor, many of the Turkish children being so
+emaciated and such a mass of repulsive sores, that many were sent away
+as too weak. Most of them shrieked with fear, but a few came up
+smiling, one and all comforted by their protector, either Turk, child,
+or fond mother. The fathers invariably showed the most distressed
+concern. It was a comical sight; outside the rails a motley crowd of
+interested spectators and waiting children, and in the inclosure the
+doctor pricking his patients one after the other in a most indifferent
+manner. His clerk noted the names, and we, with some of the local
+grandees, drank tiny cups of coffee and looked on.
+
+The Albanian or Turkish element is very strong in Dulcigno, and they
+are the only Montenegrin subjects exempt from compulsory military
+service. The Montenegrin authorities told us that they were very
+peaceable and industrious, giving no trouble whatever. It is, after
+Podgorica, the largest town in Montenegro, and does a lot of trade in
+small sailing-boats down the coast. As many as seventy-five per cent
+of the men are usually away at sea, carrying the Montenegrin flag as
+far as Constantinople. It is quite cut off from the rest of
+Montenegro, except by a mule track connecting it over a difficult
+mountain path with Antivari and the rest of the country. By sea it is
+connected by the Austrian-Lloyd weekly Albanian Line, and by one or
+two smaller steamers which occasionally call there, with Cattaro and
+the Albanian coast towns.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer much
+from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass the
+Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious troubles--The town
+and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding, Yes and No--We return to Rijeka
+by steamer--The beauties of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's
+return, when the fatted calf is _not_ killed.
+
+
+Before we left Dulcigno it was necessary to have our passports vised
+by the Turkish Consul, as we intended returning to Podgorica _via_
+Scutari. We had to go through a lot of tedious formality, though the
+Consul was a most pleasant man, and laughed at the precautions which
+his orders forced him to take. But as he supplied us with horses and
+an escort--for the path is considered somewhat dangerous--we resigned
+ourselves to the inevitable with a good grace. Our guns and carbines
+we were forced to send back to Podgorica with Stephan, as the law is
+very strict against the introduction of firearms into Albania, where,
+however, even the poorest peasant goes fully armed. But as strangers
+our weapons would have been confiscated on the border. Verily the ways
+of the Turk are passing strange.
+
+We made a start at four o'clock one morning just as the sun was
+appearing above the hills, and the day promised to be extremely hot.
+Our horses were fairly good, and the man who constituted our guard, an
+Albanian, seemed a pleasant fellow, which much belied his appearance.
+A more villainous-looking face, with half his teeth missing, could
+hardly be imagined. However, the whole way he rolled us cigarettes
+most industriously, rarely taking one from us. Our saddles were
+Turkish, and were our first experience of them, and, it is to be
+hoped, the last.
+
+The high road, or rather path, to Scutari, is considered good for
+Montenegro. In reality it is a mere track, in places paved with
+cobblestones atrociously laid. It is odd that many important districts
+in this country are entirely unconnected by roads with the
+neighbouring towns, and consequently such things as carriages do not
+exist. As an instance, the whole of the country lying beyond Rijeka
+towards the sea, containing two important towns, and in size about an
+eighth of Montenegro, possesses one short road--from Virpazar to
+Antivari--and one carriage.
+
+Our path lay for the first three hours through a richly vegetated
+country, and the scenery at times was quite English, owing to the
+amount of oak trees which overhang the path. But at nearly every open
+space was a Turkish graveyard. The indiscriminate way in which the
+Turks bury their dead is most extraordinary.
+
+We reached the River Bojana, and rode along the bank some time before
+we came to the ferry. It is a broad and swiftly flowing river of quite
+imposing size. The heat was now getting tremendous, and a friendly
+Albanian picking apricots on the roadside gave us many handfuls, which
+proved very acceptable.
+
+Two Albanians came across in a large barge in answer to our hail, and
+we and our horses--the latter, by the way, stepping into the barge
+most unconcernedly--were piloted across. Here we entered Albania, and
+were examined by a fierce-looking Customs official. He turned our
+baggage out on to a mat, and evidently meant to overhaul it
+thoroughly, when a few _Daily Graphics_ caught his eye. After that he
+dismissed the remainder of our things with a wave of the hand, which
+our men promptly repacked, and retired into the papers. A lot of other
+men came up, and we were pleased to afford so much delight with our
+illustrated journals.
+
+As we were drinking coffee in the very primitive inn, a heavy
+thunderstorm came on, and deluges of rain, keeping us here for about
+an hour, when it cleared up sufficiently to proceed. Our landlord at
+Dulcigno had packed us up a meal with a bottle or two of wine at our
+orders, and we, now being hungry, inspected the basket. It was, to put
+it mildly, distinctly disappointing, and not fit to eat or drink.
+Added to this, my hunting knife was stolen, and we were very glad to
+get on again.
+
+The rest of the ride was the reverse of monotonous. The path was now
+as slippery as grease, and our horses floundered at every other step,
+and at times we plashed through quagmires, and became bespattered from
+head to foot. Several men passed us with rifles slung over their
+shoulders, but interchanged salutations with our guard. With the
+exception of one small revolver, we were unarmed and practically
+helpless. A short time after our ride through this district, a
+stranger was killed. It is very unfair to refuse foreigners the
+permission to carry any arms through such dangerous parts, when it is
+considered a disgrace to go unarmed by the inhabitants. Our saddles,
+too, were beginning to cause us much discomfort. After the first few
+hours on a Turkish saddle, every movement of the horse becomes agony.
+
+We reached the outskirts of Scutari about seven hours after our start,
+and the town is entered by a great bridge. But before coming to the
+bridge we rode through a great assembly of Albanians, judging from
+their different costumes, from every part of the country, with their
+flocks and herds for the market. The men were lying about singly or in
+groups, sometimes under a rough tent, while the women attended to
+their wants and to the flocks. Each man was heavily armed with rifle
+and revolver, and turned lazily as we passed, with no friendly looks,
+plainly intimating that we were intruders. Still they were fine,
+fierce-looking men, though their expression is not nearly so
+prepossessing as that of the Montenegrin. It was a strange scene of
+life, but only one of many that abound in and about the capital of
+Albania.
+
+At the bridge we had to dismount and cross on foot, and a very painful
+operation it proved after so many hours in the saddle.
+
+The custom-house was situated immediately at the other end of the
+bridge, and here we entered. In the guard-house, full of
+disreputable-looking Turkish soldiers, were hung rifles and revolvers
+on nails in great number and variety, which the mountaineers have to
+leave on entering the town precincts. The custom-house official was
+peacefully sleeping when we came in, and had to be awakened. We were
+led to a divan, and cigarettes and coffee promptly brought to us while
+our passports were examined. In a quarter of an hour we were allowed
+to proceed, but a man came running after us saying that our baggage
+had not been examined. He gently hinted that he had no wish to examine
+it all if ..., and we understood. We forced a handful of backsheesh in
+his seemingly unwilling hand, and slowly, with many muttered
+exclamations, climbed into the saddles. We even did not scorn the
+friendly aid of a low wall, so painfully stiff were we.
+
+A short ride round the once mighty and historical fortress of Scutari,
+past a ruined building liberally painted with white crosses, said to
+have been once the Cathedral, and where we had noticed that Christian
+Albanians piously crossed themselves on passing, led us to the famous
+bazaar.
+
+It was not our first visit to Scutari (we had visited the town by
+steamer from Montenegro on several previous occasions), but as we
+clattered through the evil-smelling alleys filled with a surging mass
+of more or less unclean humanity, we were struck more forcibly than
+ever with the picture. At times our passage was blocked by the crowds,
+and misshapen figures and hideous faces would peer out of doors and
+shop windows at us, and swaggering Albanians would jostle each other,
+their belts for the most part empty, though many were armed in spite
+of the stringent rules to the contrary. Slowly we forged our way
+through this seething crowd, and emerged on the open road beyond,
+leading to the town proper, which lies about half-an-hour's distance
+away.
+
+At the hotel we dismissed the man (and the horses), who remarked with
+a certain grimness, in Italian, "Buon arrivato," and we staggered into
+a meal which our eight-hour fast and torture had rendered extremely
+necessary.
+
+[Illustration: THE CONSULAR QUARTERS, SCUTARI]
+
+Though Scutari, strictly speaking, does not belong to this account of
+Montenegro, it is still so interesting, being in former days part
+of Montenegro, that it deserves some mention.
+
+The actual town is Mahometan, three-quarters of the inhabitants
+belonging to that faith; but as the surrounding mountains are all
+Christian, and it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Bishopric of
+Albania, religious feuds are common. The Christian Albanian belongs
+literally to the "Church Militant," and emphasises his feelings
+occasionally by throwing a dead pig into a mosque. On other occasions
+playful Albanians have been known to tie white cloths round a fez,
+thereby imitating the headgear of a Mahometan priest, and so parade
+through the town. Very naturally the Mahometans object to it, and
+trouble ensues. About a year ago Scutari was in a state of siege, and
+closed to trade for a fortnight.[3]
+
+The consular quarter of the town is really quite fine, and here all
+the rich merchants, of whom there are very many, live in large houses
+often beautifully fitted up and surrounded by a formidable wall. A
+street where such houses are situated is externally very gloomy,
+nothing to be seen but high walls pierced by massive gates. Behind
+those walls, however, are lovely gardens and imposing houses.
+
+[Footnote 3: This has again happened since writing the above.]
+
+The consulates are very much in evidence, with guards of
+splendid-looking Albanian kavasses. Politically only Austria and Italy
+are vitally interested in Albania, and these countries have large
+consular staffs and fine buildings and post offices.
+
+Owing to the absence of the British Consul, we went to see the acting
+Vice-Consul, who is a Scutarine, and a very courteous gentleman. Like
+all the rich merchants of Scutari, he spoke Italian fluently, and
+through him we got an insight into the merchant houses. An extremely
+aged kavass, in the long white skirt or kirtle worn largely in
+Scutari, and with the British Arms emblazoned on his fez, respectfully
+kissed our hands, and we were told that he had been in English service
+for over forty years. But he could not speak a word of any language
+except Albanian.
+
+The Vice-Consul placed another kavass at our disposal to accompany us
+on our explorations of the town, and gave him further permission to
+attend us on our proposed ride to Podgorica. This latter idea we were
+forced to give up ultimately, as the roads were considered too
+dangerous. As a matter of fact, a big shooting affray took place in
+the district through which we should have traversed a few days
+afterwards.
+
+Quite one of the sights is Mr. Paget's house (of Paget's Horse fame),
+situated in the heart of the town. The clock tower affords a fine
+view, though the time that it keeps is startling to the new-comer. As
+is known, the Turks have a time of their own, which has a difference
+of four hours and a half to our time. It is misleading to get up at
+an early hour, say six o'clock, and find that it is already half-past
+ten. And again you feel you ought to be sleeping at one o'clock at
+night, till you remember that it is really only about eight o'clock.
+
+In the bazaar of Scutari representatives of every clan in Albania can
+be seen, and each tribe has his distinctive dress, so that the variety
+of national costumes to be seen there can be imagined. The Scutarines
+are of course very much in evidence, clad in a jaunty sleeveless and
+magnificently-embroidered jacket, silk shirt, and enormous baggy
+breeches of black, and heavily pleated. How heavily pleated they are
+can be gathered when twenty to twenty-five yards of a kind of black
+alpaca are used for one pair of knee-breeches. White stockings and a
+red skull-cap--not the high Turkish fez--with a huge blue silk tassel
+reaching to the waist, complete the attire. Their women-folk look
+picturesque in a large scarlet cloak, with a hood half covering the
+face.
+
+The student of Albanian costumes can make a complete study of the
+subject in Scutari, rendering a journey into the vast country beyond
+almost unnecessary.
+
+We always took a camera with us, but with very poor results. It is
+against the Mahometan religion to be photographed, neither are
+photographers looked upon with pleasure. We did once plant our camera
+in the main street of the bazaar, to the great anger of a policeman
+who ordered us off, luckily after we had secured a picture.
+
+When we were quite new to Scutari, it happened we were waiting for a
+boat to take us off to the steamer, when we were struck with a
+particularly fine old Scutariner in red fez and long flowing skirt.
+Through the medium of an interpreter, I politely asked the permission
+to take his picture. He solemnly nodded his head backwards, and I,
+rejoiced at so good a subject, hurriedly erected the stand. When I
+next glanced at him, his face was purple with rage, and he made a
+threatening movement. For a moment I was quite at a loss to understand
+the why and wherefore, until our interpreter hastily explained that it
+was against the old man's religion.
+
+"But he said 'yes,'" I expostulated. "At least he nodded."
+
+"That means 'no,'" said the interpreter.
+
+"What does?" I demanded. "Saying 'yes,' or nodding it."
+
+Then the man explained to me at some length, as I repacked my camera,
+that in the Orient to shake the head means "yes," and a nod--a quick
+elevation of the chin accompanied by a click of the tongue--is
+negative. This custom is largely adopted in Montenegro, particularly
+amongst the peasants, but even then we never quite knew if a shake of
+the head was meant in the Turkish or European sense. It is a
+confusing and irritating habit, and takes months to get accustomed to.
+
+Visitors to Montenegro usually spend a day in Scutari, for the route
+by steamer is the only perfectly safe way of entering the town.
+Passengers by the steamer are not required to have their passports
+vised, if they state their intention to the official, who promptly
+boards the steamer on its arrival, to return by it next day. But names
+and particulars are carefully noted and laid before the Governor.
+During this particular visit, we were already well known to the
+Turkish officer in charge of this department, a pleasant little
+fellow, inordinately proud of his French which he had just learnt; but
+still he worried us greatly, calling daily and even sending obvious
+spies to find out how long we really meant to stay and our object. We
+tried to impress upon him that we had no base intentions on the town,
+and were really quite harmless individuals, but he remained friendlily
+suspicious till he bade farewell to us on board the little steamer
+_Danitza_.
+
+It is about four hours to Plavnica, and the trip across the lake is
+very fine, surrounded as it is by magnificent mountains and dotted
+with tiny wooded islands along its northern bank. We did not disembark
+at Plavnica, the nearest point for Podgorica, but proceeded _via_
+Virpazar up the river to Rijeka, the final station of the steamer and
+connecting link with Cetinje. The voyage up to Rijeka is delightful,
+as the boat threads her way through a narrow channel between lofty
+green hills. It is a picture of as true sylvan beauty, peace and
+quiet, as can be found on many of the upper reaches of the Thames.
+
+At Rijeka we waited in an inn for the carriage, which we had ordered
+by telegraph from Cetinje to take us back to Podgorica, and were
+startled to hear a revolver-shot fired in the village. Everyone was
+running excitedly to a certain small "dugan," or shop, and thither we
+also directed our steps and found a bleeding Montenegrin standing over
+a prostrate and insensible Turk.
+
+What had happened was as follows. The Montenegrin had bought some
+tobacco from the Turk, and claimed to have been given two kreutzers
+(under a halfpenny) short in change, whereupon the Turk accused the
+other of having hidden it.
+
+"Thou art a liar!" promptly cried the Montenegrin, and received a
+bullet in the thigh as an answer from the enraged Turk. Not seriously
+hurt, the Montenegrin, equally quickly, drew his revolver and, using
+it as a club, knocked the Turk insensible; in fact, he was thought to
+be dead. However, we afterwards heard that he had recovered.
+
+Shortly afterwards we were spending a few days in Cetinje, and were
+again witnesses of the final act of another small drama which was
+enacted about this time.
+
+One morning we saw about twenty Montenegrins brought into the town
+heavily chained, and on inquiry we were told the following story.
+
+A young man, whom we will call Andreas to prevent confusion, had been
+for some time in Austria, and not finding work he returned to his
+village, named Ljubotin, half-way between Rijeka and Cetinje, or, to
+be more correct, just below the Bella Vista in the hollow. He arrived
+in the night, penniless and in a desperate condition, and waited
+outside his widowed mother's house till he saw that all the men, his
+relations, had left and gone to work in the fields. Entering the house
+he demanded money of his aged mother, who indignantly refused him--he
+seems to have been a bad lot altogether--and as he threatened to take
+it by force, she hurriedly called in the village kmet, or mayor, to
+protect her. But the kmet was also aged and infirm, and brought a
+young man with him. This young man remonstrated with Andreas, who was
+breaking open the chest, and said--
+
+"Give me thy revolver."
+
+"Thus I give it thee," answered Andreas, and drawing his revolver he
+shot the man dead.
+
+Andreas then fled out of the house into the fields, and the murdered
+man's relations speedily gathered together and pursued him. They
+espied the fugitive running and fired at him, whereupon Andreas threw
+up his arms and fell to the ground. His pursuers thinking him dead,
+left him. Andreas was in reality shamming, and crawling through the
+bushes saw his uncle at work and promptly fired at _him_.
+
+This time he met his deserts, for his uncle, unhurt, returned the
+compliment and shot him through the head.
+
+These shots brought the original pursuers to the spot, and seeing
+Andreas dead, and shot by his uncle and not by them, they began
+abusing the old man for taking their lawful prey from them.
+
+He bared his chest dramatically, saying that as he knew that the
+vendetta must continue, they should shoot him then and there and end
+the matter. But they would not, and going further found another
+relation of Andreas; this time a young man, and the pride of the
+family. They shot and wounded him slightly. He fired and mortally
+wounded one of his attackers, which was as far as they got.
+
+The gendarmes had come and arrested them all, and these were the men
+of both sides, which we had seen that morning.
+
+As we knew several of them personally, we were doubly interested.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+Preparations for our tour in the Brda--We start--Where it is not good
+to be giddy--A trying ride--Our inn--Nocturnal episodes--The journey
+continued--Pleasant surroundings--The Montenegrin _quart
+d'heure_--Arrival in Kolasin--We meet the Governor--Visiting--The Band
+of Good Hope--The Crown Prince's birthday--We are ashamed.
+
+
+The preparations for our tour through the mountainous districts of
+North-East Montenegro, known as the Brda, took a few days.
+
+We had some difficulty about horses, though ultimately P. and I
+secured two good animals for ourselves, but the third, destined for
+the bulk of our baggage and Stephan, was a dilapidated apology for the
+equine race. As a matter of fact, it stood the trying journey in a
+remarkable manner.
+
+Then there were a few pots and pans for cooking purposes to purchase,
+some necessary additions with which to supplement our humble fare, and
+two days' rations of meat and bread.
+
+It made a formidable pile when we reviewed it one morning at daybreak,
+though we had cut down our baggage as close as possible. It took
+Stephan about an hour to load up, and when he had finished, he had
+left no room on top for himself.
+
+We carried ourselves each a carbine, revolver, and bandolier of
+cartridges, and a pair of saddlebags; but what with a camera, camping
+utensils, guns and cartridges, sleeping-coats, etc., the pack-horse
+was full up. However, there was no help for it, and Stephan had to
+walk the first day.
+
+We left Podgorica about 6.30, accompanied by Dr. S., who came with us
+partly on business and partly out of friendship. As he knew the
+country perfectly, he did much to render our tour more interesting.
+
+The mountains ascend abruptly, and our path was for some hours along
+the turbulent Moraca, which we met at the end of the plain. In five
+minutes we were surrounded by mountain scenery. Some little way up the
+valley a bridge is in the course of construction across the stream,
+and will form part of the projected road from Podgorica to Kolasin. On
+its completion, we were told, it would be the highest bridge in the
+Balkans. Men were working on a loose and steeply sloping bank of
+crumbling earth a few feet above a precipitous rock, which overhangs
+the Moraca, at a height of two hundred and fifty feet.
+
+"They very rarely fall," said Dr. S. in answer to our unspoken
+question.
+
+It made us giddy and sick to watch them. But our own position was
+often not much safer. The path see-sawed up and down; one moment we
+were splashed by the spray of a waterfall as it dashed into a creamy
+pool, and the next we were up on a dizzy height, with one foot hanging
+over a precipice, gazing on the foam-flecked mill-race below. Verily,
+it is no journey for a giddy man to take. A single false step on the
+part of the horse would send both it and its rider to a sudden death.
+With the ordinary mountain pony, for the horses are practically only
+that, it is not necessary to guide it--in fact it might be dangerous.
+The Montenegrin rides with a loose rein over the most ticklish ground,
+only tightening his grip on descending a very steep hill to help his
+horse when it occasionally stumbles.
+
+Despite a slight nervousness, we were still able to appreciate to the
+full the grand scenery of the valley of the Moraca. It turned out to
+be quite as fine as anything we saw in the mountains.
+
+About four hours after our start we crossed the stream by a wooden
+bridge and dismounted at an inn. Stabling our horses in the ground
+floor, we ascended to the upper regions where the human beings live,
+and clamoured for food.
+
+Raw ham and, of course, eggs were all that was to be had, and, as it
+turned out, it was our only meal that day. The flies were terrible,
+but Dr. S. comforted us, saying that every hour would bring us to
+higher regions and consequently fewer flies. A prophecy which was only
+partially fulfilled.
+
+We made the best of our repast, and after an hour's rest we made
+another start. We left the river now, and seemed to climb a breakneck
+hill for interminable hours. The region was barren and absolutely
+waterless, while the heat was tremendous. I only remember one view
+during that broiling ride. We had reached a great altitude, and were
+crossing a narrow ridge. On one side was the Moraca, and on the other
+the Mala, both streams mere threads in the hazy distance.
+
+It was the want of water that tried us more than anything. About
+midday we halted for a while at a small village, and under the
+refreshing shade of a large tree. Some young men kindly fetched us a
+little water in a dirty vessel, which tasted abominably.
+
+Another long climb and we at last found shade, and rode for the rest
+of the afternoon through beech forests. If the path had been bad
+before, it was worse now, and it was a perfect marvel how the horses
+kept their feet. I was somewhat unfortunate in my horse Alat, who was
+blind in one eye, so that I always had to guide him over difficult
+places. This kept me for ever on the alert, and became trying. At
+every hut we pulled up and asked for milk, but invariably got "Nema"
+(I have none) for an answer. The Montenegrins are singularly laconic
+at times.
+
+Now began a long descent, so atrocious that we had to dismount and
+climb down on foot, leaving the horses to pick their way as best they
+could, and about seven p.m. we reached the house where we were to
+spend the night. It consisted of two rooms, a kitchen and a bedroom,
+the sole furniture of the latter consisting of two wooden bedsteads.
+
+There was no food, except a half lamb, which Stephan had brought on
+the pack-horse, and its condition was unpleasant from its many hours'
+exposure to the sun and attendant flies. It took over an hour to cook,
+and by that time our ravenous hunger had passed, stilled by a few
+quarts of delicious milk. The inn--for such was the character of the
+house--unlike similar institutions of more civilised lands, had
+neither accommodation for man nor beast. There was no hay for our
+hungry horses, who had to wait for two hours while a man took an
+hour's climb up a mountain to the next village and brought back a load
+of 45 kilos (100 lbs.) on his back. A little thought can be given to
+this fact. Suffice it to say that this lean and athletic man took off
+his shirt and literally wrung the sweat from it. This, too, at the end
+of a long day's work. Part of the hay served for our beds, and little
+enough it seemed too.
+
+P. and I were given the two beds, or rather we were forced to take
+them, and I turned in at once, after looking at the mutton broth, and
+fell asleep immediately. In the night I was awakened by a child crying
+in the room, and in the dim light I was startled to see the
+floor--empty when I went to bed--strewn with sleeping figures.
+
+A heap that I rightly guessed was the doctor, moved uneasily.
+
+"Doctor," I said softly, "are you awake?"
+
+"Yes," came the answer. "A small child has evidently mistaken me for
+its father or mother. Will you have it?"
+
+I feigned sleep.
+
+Other figures were snoring peacefully and emphatically, but the tiny
+inmates of my hay bed were painfully awake and sleep seemed banished.
+However, I must have slept again, for when I awoke the room was empty,
+except for Stephan, who was packing up. We had a wash in the stream
+and made a hurried breakfast, and were off by a fairly early hour.
+Stephan had found a horse, which must have come as a blessing to him.
+He had walked yesterday about thirty miles. The path was much better
+to-day, and we were enabled to make better pace. At a small village
+named Lijeva Rijeka we made a long halt to allow the doctor to
+transact some official business. We ate up what meat we had left, and
+had great fun with the village big-wigs.
+
+Strangers are beings of rare occurrence in the mountains, and we
+always came in for much "courteous curiosity." Dr. S. and Stephan
+enjoyed answering inquiries as to who we were immensely. One time we
+were engineers making plans for the new road; another time we were
+enterprising merchants about to open up the country; and once a man
+remarked, when he was told that I was the British Minister, "And wears
+patched trousers?" He referred to the knee pads of my riding-breeches.
+
+Our arms, as was only natural to this fighting race, attracted great
+interest. The carbines, of the Austrian Mannlicher system, invariably
+went the round to a chorus of delighted appreciation. Likewise our
+field-glasses, through which they would look for hours.
+
+Shortly after leaving this village we had a fortunately short but
+exceedingly steep hill to climb, which brought us on to a magnificent
+plateau of rich green grass, carpeted with wild flowers. From this
+point onwards the scenery changed completely. We were in the Alpine
+regions. It was very beautiful, the trees covered every hill with a
+mass of green foliage, and every here and there a snow-capped mountain
+peak would appear. Not only was the scenery different, but the
+dwellings of the peasants took quite another style of architecture;
+conical thatched roofs of a height out of all proportion to the size
+of the house, and a massive verandah or loggia built into the house,
+The inhabitants are snowed up for many months every year, and have to
+lay in great stores of food. But how delightful it must be here in
+winter! What an opportunity for snow-shoeing! The peasants can do the
+journey to Podgorica in about half the time on their primitive
+snow-shoes.
+
+The ride from here to Kolasin was nearly perfection. We skirted
+rushing mountain torrents, through woodland glades and soft green
+swards; the air was glorious and cool, for though the sun was powerful
+there was an abundance of shade. One drawback, however, a drawback
+sufficient to mar our happiness, was not denied us. Every mile or so
+we had to plunge through a quagmire, equal to the worst South African
+mudhole, which is saying a great deal. Much care had to be exercised
+to prevent the horses getting fairly bogged or breaking their legs,
+but all passed without an accident, though our condition at the end of
+the day was awful. We were bespattered from head to foot.
+
+Several halts at hans were made during the day for rest, food, and
+milk, and about three p.m. we struck the River Tara, and had crossed
+the water-shed of the Adria and the Black Sea. We followed the Tara
+till Kolasin, where we arrived about seven o'clock.
+
+Montenegrins have no idea of judging time and distance, which is
+curious. There is another favourite way of describing a distance: by
+cigar (cigarette) smoking. You will be informed that the distance is
+one cigarette, which means that the traveller has time to smoke one
+cigarette on the way. As an ordinary smoker consumes a cigarette in
+about ten minutes, the distance would seem small, but it is not so. It
+is better to reckon two hours. Quarters of hours and cigarette-smoking
+measurements take a lot of learning, and cause much vexation to the
+spirit before they are mastered. When the stranger has mastered them,
+he ceases to ask, and patiently waits. One word of warning to
+intending travellers. If you are told that the next village is _two_
+hours away, then rest awhile and eat and drink, for two hours means
+"X."
+
+About seven p.m. we clattered up the little street of Kolasin, which
+is the capital of the same-named district.
+
+It is a beautiful mountainous tract of country, as unlike to
+Montenegro proper as is the sun to the moon, richly wooded with dense
+primeval beech forests, full of rushing streams and rich pasturages.
+The little town itself is rather uninteresting; it has about 1,500
+inhabitants, all Montenegrin, for the Turk has almost entirely
+disappeared. Only in a ruined mosque and one or two dilapidated
+Turkish houses is the traveller reminded that once the Unspeakable was
+master here. The houses are all built with the afore-mentioned high
+conical roof and of substantial aspect.
+
+Our inn was a curiosity, and as we drew rein before it we noticed a
+crowd of men in the balcony of the first or top floor, for here the
+ground floor was devoted to stabling. Doctor S. hastily whispered that
+the Governor and General of Kolasin was one of the men upstairs. On
+going up the rickety stairs, we were at once introduced to him, and
+received most friendlily. He was a small wiry man, and reminded one
+strongly in appearance of Lord Roberts. Also, he spoke excellent
+German, having studied years ago in the Viennese Military Academy.
+Very kindly he promised to assist us during our stay in every way, and
+invited us to his house next morning.
+
+We overlooked the Market Square and had real beds, though the only
+available room was tiny. Dr. S. and Stephan slept somewhere else.
+After the heat of the valley, we found the air very keen up here;
+Kolasin lies over 3,000 feet, and is the highest town of any size in
+Montenegro.
+
+On the following morning we visited the Governor Martinovic formally
+in his house. It is only recently that he has ceased to be the
+Artillery General of Montenegro, a post which he held all through the
+Turkish war, taking part in all the important engagements.
+
+His ambition is to see the road connecting his district with Podgorica
+finished, which would bring the two towns within a six hours' drive
+of each other, instead of the present two days' very hard riding. The
+benefit to Kolasin is obvious. At present the vast beech forests,
+literally rotting, could be utilised, for wood is dear in the barren
+districts of Montenegro. Pyrite, too, is found in great quantities. In
+fact, Kolasin is cut off from the rest of the country. Everything must
+be painfully carried on horses or mules, and for a woman, other than a
+peasant, it is a journey of great difficulty. Side saddles are things
+unknown, and we heard of one lady, the wife of a foreign minister, who
+bravely undertook the journey, spending six days on the way from
+Podgorica. The Governor gave us a graphic description of the
+difficulties that he had experienced when he brought his family up
+here.
+
+We also visited the local doctor, a most extraordinary individual with
+a crank. He had started a Montenegrin temperance society, called the
+"Band of Good Hope." At present, I believe, the three hundred odd
+members were all from Kolasin, and it was meeting with very little
+encouragement. The cultivation of plums for the manufacture of spirits
+is a staple industry, and these peasants wish to know what they shall
+do with their fruit. Besides, as the Montenegrins very rarely get
+drunk, it seems rather an unnecessary movement, and the Prince himself
+does not favour it.
+
+Bismarck once said that England's greatness began to diminish when the
+"three-bottle man" died out; perhaps Prince Nicolas has like thoughts
+of his hardy subjects, who certainly can consume enormous quantities
+of alcohol with impunity. Besides, it would destroy a large source of
+the revenue, which Montenegro cannot afford to do. In the meantime the
+gallant three hundred feel very unhappy.
+
+The few days that we spent in Kolasin were passed pleasantly in daily
+excursions into the surrounding country shooting, though with
+indifferent results. The Crown Prince Danilo's birthday came one day
+during our stay, and Governor, staff, and officials went to church
+attired in glorious raiment. They literally sparkle in gold lace
+embroidery, orders, and decorations, and for a gorgeous but absolutely
+tasteful effect commend me to the gala dress of the Montenegrin high
+official. It is the most artistic blending of gold, crimson, blue, and
+white.
+
+After the service spirits were served out free on the market-place
+(what agonies must the three hundred have suffered!), and a dance was
+formed. The national dance--in this instance the "kolo"--is usually
+performed by men, though the women do sometimes join in, and it is a
+slow and stately measure.
+
+[Illustration: THE KOLASIN MARKET PLACE]
+
+[Illustration: THE KOLO]
+
+The men place their hands on each other's shoulders and form a
+ring, which, however, is never completed. New men can join in, but a
+space is always left open. One step is taken sideways to the left, and
+then three to the right, and the movement is accompanied by singing.
+The singers are three or four men on the opposite horns of the circle,
+who alternately chant verses in honour of the Prince.
+
+The ring of men slowly danced their way from the Market Square to the
+Governor's house, where more spirits were given, and an accordion
+player joined the ring.
+
+Loud cries of "Zivio!" followed the cessation of every movement. We
+followed and went in to the Governor, to offer our congratulations and
+drink His Royal Highness's health. The room was quite full, two or
+three men being rough peasants, relations of the Governor. There is
+very little class distinction in Montenegro. Often the humblest
+peasant can claim relationship with the Voivoda, or Duke, of the
+province, and will always be cordially received.
+
+We felt quite ashamed of our appearance--leather coats, collarless
+shirts, and so forth--amongst such rich costumes. The complete outfit
+of a Montenegrin dandy costs over forty pounds, and takes a bit of
+beating.
+
+Carefully tucking our rough riding-boots under our chairs, to avoid
+marking the contrast with our host's resplendent jack-boots of
+patent-leather, and buttoning up our coat collars, we endeavoured to
+make ourselves as inconspicuous as possible in this brilliant
+assembly. But in spite of our tramp-like garb, we were always highly
+honoured guests.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+Montenegro's oldest building--The ride to the Moraca Monastery--A
+perilous bridge and ascent--The Abbot's tale--We inspect the
+monastery--The health of the King is drunk--The relative merits of
+Boers and Montenegrins--The Abbot makes us presents--We visit a
+peasant's house and a Homeric feast--A feu-de-joie--Departure from
+Kolasin--We are mistaken for doctors again--Raskrsnica.
+
+
+In Montenegro there are, strangely enough, with one famous exception,
+no buildings of any great antiquity. This, however, can be easily
+accounted for by the repeated invasions of the Turks, who ravaged the
+land with a merciless fury. Montenegro was the only Balkan state which
+they were unable to bring to obedience, and the struggle, which began
+after the battle of Kossovo, has, perhaps, not reached its final stage
+yet, though other enemies have supplanted the Turk.
+
+Far away in the heart of the mountains, and perched on the top of a
+high cliff, at whose feet the turbulent mountain torrent Moraca races
+past, there is situated a monastery, which takes its name from the
+river below.
+
+This monastery is the only building that has escaped the scourge of
+the Turk, and, though often attacked, only once has it been partially
+burnt. Like its famous sister at Ostrog, it is constructed in a
+position where Nature has provided the best means of defence, and
+this the hand of man has skilfully utilised and improved. It was
+founded in the year 1252 by one of the sons of the famous Servian
+king, Stephan Nemanja, and dedicated to S. Nicholas. Right well has
+the saint watched over and protected his feof.
+
+During our stay at Ostrog the Archbishop of Montenegro impressed upon
+us most strongly the necessity of visiting Moraca before leaving the
+country. He himself had lived there many years as the Archimandrite,
+and was besieged by the Turks during his sojourn within its walls.
+
+So, accompanied by a guide, with whom the Governor of Kolasin had
+provided us, we made an early start one morning for the monastery. We
+had a perfect ride through dense beech forests, skirting a noisy
+little stream, of which we were able to obtain a glimpse every now and
+then through a break in the trees. On either side of the ravine the
+hills rose steeply to some height. We soon passed a lonely cross in a
+small clearing, erected to the memory of five Montenegrins who had
+been surprised and murdered there by the Turks.
+
+It is always so in Montenegro, when the traveller is filled with a
+sense of peace at the grandeur of the wild mountainous scenery, or the
+beauty of a sylvan forest glade, a rough cross, or cairn of stones,
+will be pointed out where men have met a sudden and violent death.
+
+[Illustration: A TYPICAL ROAD]
+
+Once, as our path led up a steep incline, our guide told us
+graphically how that, a few weeks ago, both a horse and its rider had
+fallen down the one hundred feet into the river below. The path was
+very narrow, and he strongly advised us in passing to take care, which
+remark seemed slightly superfluous after the vivid description with
+which he had just favoured us.
+
+Crossing the stream we dismounted, and climbed to a small grassy
+plateau on which a church is being built for the shepherds of the
+district. It commanded a beautiful view. The path now ascended to a
+great height, and much walking had to be done, for a ridge of hills
+lay between us and our destination. At the top the valley of the
+Moraca could be seen with a magnificent background of rugged
+mountains. A breakneck descent of two and a half hours, most of it on
+foot, brought us to the river, which was crossed by a picturesque and
+broken-down bridge. On a cliff opposite stood the monastery.
+
+While leading my horse over the bridge I chanced to rest for a moment
+on the central arch to enjoy the view. The guide, who was behind me,
+thrust me unceremoniously forward. It is not always safe to admire
+scenery from Montenegrin bridges. Certainly, on inspecting the bridge
+from below, he seemed to have shown no unnecessary caution. Two of
+the arches had completely given, and may collapse at any moment.
+
+A very steep and dangerous path leads up to the plateau on which the
+monastery is situated. It was nearly the cause of a serious accident
+to me, for my saddle gave, and began to slip backwards. Had the horse
+made one false step at this critical moment I should have been dashed
+over a precipice of eighty feet. Just before the gates stands a small
+inn, where we left our horses and proceeded on foot.
+
+The monastery strongly resembles a fortress, for the massive walls
+surrounding it are liberally loop-holed, and it can be entered from
+one side only. We entered a large courtyard with buildings on all
+sides. At the back a great mountain ascends obliquely, and in front an
+inaccessible precipice descends to the river. It was doubtless a tough
+morsel for the Turks in the olden days, though modern artillery would
+make very short work of it.
+
+The Archimandrite, or Abbot, soon came down and welcomed us most
+cordially, conducting us to his room, where we were regaled with the
+inevitable strong black coffee. He was a big, handsome man, with the
+long beard and hair which all the priests of the Greek Church wear.
+Quiet and benevolent as he looked, he is famed throughout the whole
+country as a mighty warrior; for in times of war the priests fight
+with the soldiers for their beloved freedom. Strangely enough, in
+the last war with Turkey he played an important role in saving the
+very monastery of which he is now the spiritual head. He was then a
+colonel, and commanded a battalion. The following story of the rout of
+the Turks is taken down from his own lips.
+
+[Illustration: THE MORACA MONASTERY]
+
+In those years (1876-7) all this district was in the hands of the
+Sultan, and the Turks had just made an unsuccessful attack upon the
+Monastery of Ostrog. Their army, under the command of the famous
+Mehmet Ali Pasha, was retreating on Kolasin, pursued by the
+Montenegrins. On reaching the Monastery of Moraca they halted with the
+intention of first destroying it, and Mehmet Ali placed a battery in a
+commanding position on the opposite heights for the bombardment.
+
+Unknown to the Turks, half a battalion of Montenegrins were stationed
+there as garrison, and the Pasha, thinking that he had but a handful
+of priests to deal with, sent down a small detachment to effect an
+entrance. The gate was opened, and they were enticed inside. Hardly
+had the last man set his foot within the courtyard when the
+Montenegrins fell upon them and beheaded them every one.
+
+The Turks, deeming all safe, sent a second detachment to assist in
+bringing out the booty, and they met with a similar fate. Then Mehmet
+began to suspect that something was wrong, and made preparations for
+a bombardment; but it was too late. A brigade of pursuing Montenegrins
+had come up. They fell upon him from flank and rear, and a horrid
+slaughter ensued.
+
+It must be confessed that the account seems incredible, and is,
+doubtless innocently enough, greatly exaggerated. But the worthy Abbot
+distinctly stated that out of 25,000 Turks only 2,000 or 3,000
+escaped. It was indeed "a terrible tale of a Turk that is ghastly and
+grim and gory." The Montenegrins were but men 1,800 strong, just three
+battalions, one of which was commanded by Michael Dozic, the Abbot,
+and his battalion it was that took the Turks in the rear, throwing
+them into utter confusion.
+
+To-day the peasants still find heaps of bones in the crevices and
+hollows of the rocks.
+
+After this very pleasant story, we descended into the courtyard, which
+is formed in a semicircle. In the centre stands the church. It is
+built in the shape of a cross, and its porch and interior are
+gorgeously adorned with the most quaint frescoes; indeed, every
+particle of the walls and ceiling is covered with frescoes of the most
+crude design and vivid colouring, and the altar-screen is
+magnificently gilded. The colours are well preserved, and seem as
+fresh as when the monks first laid them on, for the painting all dates
+back to the time of the foundation.
+
+It was somewhat horrifying to find that the frescoes behind the
+altar-screen were completely scribbled over. At first we put this down
+to impious tourists who delight in leaving their miserable names on
+the most historical buildings; but, on closer inspection, we found
+that they were copious notes in the form of a diary. The Abbot told us
+that Mitrofan Ban, the Archbishop, had written them during his lengthy
+abbacy many years ago.
+
+There is another church, or rather tiny chapel, within the monastery
+which is about a century older than the rest of the buildings, and the
+interior is likewise covered with frescoes of the same crude and vivid
+painting. They represent scenes from the life of S. Nicholas, and the
+chapel is only used once a year during the pilgrimage which takes
+place on the feast of their patron saint.
+
+Every year large numbers of Montenegrins flock to the monastery to
+offer prayers and offerings. Just outside the walls stands a small
+cannon, with a Turkish inscription, which four Montenegrins carried
+away one night from Kolasin when that town was in Turkish hands. Not
+only the bravado of such a deed, but the athletic feat of carrying
+such a weighty object over that difficult country, are very
+characteristic of this people. It is fired annually during the feast
+of S. Nicholas.
+
+The worthy Abbot was greatly annoyed to find that we had ordered food
+below, and still more when he heard that we were returning to Kolasin
+the same afternoon. He repeatedly urged us to spend a few days with
+him, but, enjoyable as the visit would have been, previous engagements
+forbade our acceptance.
+
+A second priest waylaid us as we were leaving for our meal, and
+carried us off to his room, where more coffee was served. He had
+travelled much in Turkey and the Black Sea, and we had a very pleasant
+conversation, but, after a short time, the pangs of hunger forced us
+to excuse ourselves. Our humble meal, which we partook of in the best
+chamber (and only bedroom), was hardly over when the young priest
+again rejoined us, bringing with him an enormous bottle of wine. Very
+solemnly he filled our glasses, and proposed the health of His Majesty
+King Edward VII. Our surprise was so great that we almost forgot to
+drink. And then came many questions as to the progress of the Boer
+war, questions with which, by the way, we were often assailed by the
+more intelligent classes during our travels.
+
+To quote an instance which happened to myself once in Cetinje. While
+waiting outside the monastery for the appearance of the Prince, who
+was attending divine service within, I entered into conversation with
+a gendarme. We spoke of many things, and to my surprise, for he was
+but an ignorant peasant, he inquired as to the progress of the war.
+He asked the nature of the country, on which subject I was luckily
+able to enlighten him. Parts of it are not at all unlike Montenegro.
+At this he pricked up his ears.
+
+"Thou hast been to the Transvaal?" he asked with increased interest.
+"Are the people brave like we are?"
+
+"They are brave," I said, "but not as ye are. They only shoot at long
+distances, and object very strongly to hand-to-hand fighting."
+
+The stalwart Montenegrin looked puzzled.
+
+"Shooting is good," he answered; and after a pause he added, "at
+_first_, but that is not fighting. It is an empty glory to shoot one's
+enemy, if one cannot prove it afterwards." I knew he was alluding to
+the decapitating process. "And then the wild charge, the cutting with
+the handjar when rifles are thrown away--_that_ is fighting."
+
+I explained that our soldiers loved the bayonet as much as the
+Montenegrin loved the handjar.
+
+"But what can you do when the other side won't wait for it?" I asked.
+
+"Then they are cowards," he answered judicially. "Are thy countrymen
+all as big as thou art?" he continued thoughtfully, feeling my biceps
+and scrutinising me closely.
+
+"Some of them are bigger," I said.
+
+"Then the Boers will have no chance," he said emphatically, and at
+this moment the Prince emerged from the church. This personal allusion
+to my size I took as a great compliment, for in a land where physical
+strength is an all-important factor candid appreciation of this kind
+is not meted out to one and all alike.
+
+Extremely fatigued after our early start and long ride, it was an
+effort to keep from falling asleep, and noticing this the priest left.
+We were both comfortably asleep in corners when the wretched landlord
+appeared with armfuls of sheets and pillows at the order of the
+priest. He cruelly woke us up and proceeded to make beds. After that
+all thought of sleep was gone. Furthermore, in dirty and dusty
+riding-clothes one has not the heart to lie down on spotlessly clean
+sheets.
+
+Soon afterwards the horses were ready, and we cantered up to the
+monastery to take our leave. But leave-taking was no such easy matter.
+Our pockets were filled with dried fruits, and after we were already
+in the saddle the Abbot presented us with packets of incense which he
+hurriedly fetched from the church. Waving him and the other fathers a
+last farewell, we started on our long ride back to Kolasin.
+
+During our rambles in Kolasin the doctor took us to a peasant's house
+whom he knew very well. This acquaintance proved one of our most
+pleasant recollections of the country. The head of the house was a
+fine-looking man, lean and active, and possessed many decorations for
+past acts of bravery in the field. His son was in prison at the time
+for some political offence, but his daughter-in-law and two little
+babies, besides two or three unmarried daughters and sons, were living
+with him. The whole family outdid themselves in courtesy to us, and we
+were, as usual, considerably embarrassed by the behaviour of the
+women-folk. Though we went several times to the house, they would
+rarely seat themselves while we were present, and invariably kissed
+our hands in coming and going.
+
+The doctor played games of cards with our host, but the united efforts
+of P. and myself failed to discover any method or system in the game.
+The doctor tried to explain at first, but after five minutes we begged
+him to desist. So we sat and looked on, drinking cups of black coffee
+and endeavouring to make friendly overtures to the babies, who openly
+showed that they considered us distinctly dangerous.
+
+The house itself was curious. The ceiling was low and the walls were
+of great thickness. The windows were so small that it was barely
+possible to squeeze one's head through the opening. The idea of the
+house is to obtain the maximum amount of warmth, for the cold of these
+mountainous regions is intense in winter. In summer, however, these
+houses are delightfully cool.
+
+The evening before our departure from Kolasin we were invited to an
+open-air feast at the peasant's country house.
+
+The "country house" was, it is true, only a rough wooden shanty, but,
+as our meal was outside, it didn't matter.
+
+When we arrived, after an hour's walk, we found a table set out with a
+white cloth and three wooden chairs on a green slope overlooking the
+valley of Kolasin. It was a delightful spot. Some little distance away
+the last few turns were being given to a lamb roasted whole on a spit
+over an open fire.
+
+The feast was soon served up. The entire lamb, on a great wooden
+platter, an enormous bowl of milk, eggs, sheeps' cheese, and unlimited
+spirits. The women-folk waited on us and kept our platters full. Other
+men with their wives joined us, not to partake of this Homeric feast,
+but to see us gorge ourselves. It may not be a nice expression, but we
+were literally forced to eat to an uncomfortable state of repletion.
+They took no denial, and even then the lamb was not nearly finished.
+These mountaineers eat meat only on great festivals, and consume
+enough to last them for the next few months. They did not realise that
+we were content with sufficient to last us for the next few hours.
+
+Our glasses, too, were kept replenished with the potent spirit of the
+land, and our respective healths were drunk, on the average, once
+every three minutes. When this began to pall they toasted each other,
+in which we had naturally to join, and these were followed by
+patriotic toasts. It was rather an uproarious evening.
+
+About ten we took our leave, and our hosts drew their pocket cannons
+and started firing; we naturally replied, and a deafening fusillade
+went on till every man had emptied his revolver. With singing ears we
+returned to our hotel to find the town alarmed, excited groups were
+congregated in the Market Square. Our _feu-de-joie_ was speedily
+explained, and the men flocked into the inn. As a slight return for
+the fright we had given them, we paid for a few quarts of spirits. The
+Governor overlooked our law-breaking, for after dark firing is not
+allowed, and no doubt he envied us in his heart, for, poor man, he is
+in the clutches of the Band of Good Hope, much, we heard, to his
+disgust.
+
+We left next day, and had a hearty send-off from the town, who turned
+out _en masse_ to witness our departure. The local doctor was not
+present. We had found no favour in his eyes.
+
+Shortly after leaving the town we passed the Montenegrin Militia, hard
+at their weekly drill. No uniform is worn, every man coming in his
+everyday clothes, bringing only his rifle. But they drill very well
+and the discipline is excellent. A company was being dismissed as we
+came up, and a large number accompanied us for a long way.
+
+The ride was magnificent that afternoon. The way wound up and up, and
+our last glimpse of Kolasin showed us the little town far away below
+us.
+
+The usual Montenegrin trick was again played successfully on us, the
+"only two hours' ride" developing into a journey of six hours. But
+to-day we did not murmur; it is only at the end of a long and trying
+day that this style of humour is out of place.
+
+For two hours our path threaded its way through dense beech forests.
+At one spot P. and I had ridden on so far in advance of the others
+that we dismounted and waited for them to come up. In the interval I
+was assailed by a man with a bandaged head. Doctors always wear
+European clothes in Montenegro, and without further inquiry, this man
+proceeded to sit down before me and remove his bandages, disclosing
+ultimately a ghastly eye.
+
+"What must I do for it, Gospodin Doctor?" he asked at length, for
+beyond the usual greeting he had not spoken. One glance was
+sufficient, and P. got up and left us.
+
+"Take it away!" I said, with averted face. "I am not a doctor, and
+never shall be."
+
+I felt him looking at me with his uninjured eye. These simple
+peasants are always under the impression that our modern education
+comprises that of medicine.
+
+"But, Gospodin, it has been like this for weeks," he went on, "and is
+very painful."
+
+"There is a doctor at Kolasin. Go to him. _He_ will be pleased."
+
+Evidently much hurt at my indifference, he slowly replaced his
+bandages and departed. Then our party caught us up, and we continued
+our way.
+
+Later on we emerged from the woods, and, still climbing, we rode for
+the remaining distance on magnificent grassy slopes far above the
+forest belt. Several snow-patches still lay unmelted in the shady
+hollows, and often far below us. From this ridge we obtained our first
+good view of the lofty Kom, the second highest mountain in Montenegro,
+and our ultimate destination.
+
+These great downs, across which we rode, had been only thrown open to
+the public, so to say, a few days ago, and were full of flocks of
+sheep and goats and large herds of cattle, grazing to their hearts'
+content after their long winter's imprisonment in the villages below.
+The Government fix the date when the shepherds may migrate into the
+mountain pasturages and when they must leave again for the lowlands.
+
+We overtook or met several parties of Montenegrins, and even Turks,
+for the border is not far distant, travelling from place to place. We
+were viewed with obvious interest, and invariably greeted with
+respect, though there is nothing of subservience in a Montenegrin's
+salute. He feels himself in no way your inferior as a man until you
+have proved your superiority in shooting or physical strength.
+
+In this part of the country Dr. S. always told the peasants that we
+were engineers, as a road is being contemplated.
+
+About seven p.m. we branched off from the main path, and descended on
+foot a steep path into a thickly wooded valley. In a clearing of the
+trees stood a collection of wooden huts, a summer village of
+shepherds, called Raskrsnica.
+
+It was our halting-place, and as our visit had been notified, we were
+received by a schoolmaster and taken to his hut, which was placed at
+our disposal.
+
+No schools are held during the summer months, and the teachers often
+turn shepherds, as in this case, and migrate with their flocks to the
+mountains.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+A typical mountain hut--Costume of the north-eastern borderers--Supper
+and a song--We go out hunting, and cause excitement--The Feast of
+Honour--We ride to Andrijevica--Andrijevica and our inn--The
+Voivoda--We go to church--Turkish visitors--Alarums.
+
+[Illustration: OUR HUT AT RASKRSNICA]
+
+
+It was nearly dark by the time that we were unloaded and had got our
+traps into our hut. As half our time was spent in similar
+constructions during our mountain tour, it may be as well to describe
+them now.
+
+They are usually built entirely of wood, rough, irregularly hewn
+planks, and no attempt is made to make them air-tight; often great
+crevices gape, through which a hand can be put. The roof is generally
+fairly water-tight. A man _can_ stand up-right in the middle, but the
+roof slopes steeply down to the sides. The word "can" is used
+advisedly, _i.e._ if one is able to breathe the densely smoky
+atmosphere at the top. Chimneys or outlets in the roof to permit the
+smoke to escape are unknown, and when cooking is going on, or at night
+when a roaring fire is kept burning, the appearance of the hut from
+outside gives a stranger the impression that it is on fire, and that
+the flames must burst out at any moment. It leaks smoke at every
+crevice.
+
+Inside is an open space reserved for the wood fire, and a primitive
+arrangement, often a chain suspended from the roof, for hanging the
+cooking pot. A few blocks of wood serve as easy-chairs, beds there are
+none, an armful of rushes or grass, which is usually damp, serving
+their purpose. On entering, the new-comer will first cough violently,
+then choke, and finally make a hurried exit to the fresh air.
+Summoning courage and with a fresh supply of oxygen, he dashes into
+the hut again, and throws himself on his heap of rushes. As the smoke
+rises, the atmosphere on the ground is less dense, but the penetrating
+smell of the burning wood is sufficiently strong to make his eyes pour
+with water. These are first impressions; later on, he can even sit up,
+and after a few days will be able to walk comparatively slowly in and
+out of the hut.
+
+Usually at the back is a small partition, behind which a rough shelf
+can be found, laden with the day's milking and cheese. The whole
+family sleep in the hut, no division separating the men from the
+women. But the Montenegrin peasant sleeps in his clothes, so privacy
+is considered unnecessary.
+
+Dr. S. was here officially to inspect the flocks, and had an
+appointment with the district captain. He was not there, and shortly
+after our arrival a man turned up, delivering a message from the
+captain, somewhat in the following fashion.
+
+"Sir, it is my privilege to be the bearer of the captain's message.
+The captain would have you know that he will do himself the honour to
+meet you here to-morrow in the early morning."
+
+The man stood smartly at the attention and saluted at the conclusion.
+
+It is extraordinary the grandiloquent language which even the most
+humble peasant will use, and he speaks with the polished ease of a
+gentleman.
+
+The baggy blue breeches and red jackets are not worn in these regions,
+and are replaced by white woollen tight-fitting trousers and jackets,
+bordered with black braid. In fact, the dress strongly resembles that
+worn by the Albanians, except that the black braid is narrower and
+less elaborate, and the national cap of Montenegro is carried instead
+of the white head-cloth or fez. The costume is national, and has not
+been altered to that of the Montenegrin proper, because it is
+considered warmer. The first time that Prince Nicolas visited his new
+subjects a man said to him in that characteristically familiar way in
+which the Prince's subjects are wont to address him:--
+
+"Gospodar" ("Lord," and the universal form of address for the reigning
+Prince), "wilt thou not exchange thy blue breeches for our white
+trousers. They would suit thee better."
+
+The answer of the Prince is not recorded.
+
+Stephan called us into our shanty when the evening meal was ready. Our
+host wished to slaughter a lamb, but we deferred that till the morrow,
+and we ate what we had brought with us. It was, barring the smoke, a
+delightful experience, and its charm never diminished. That hour spent
+before turning in, after supper, when the tobacco tins circulate, and
+the shepherds crowd in from the neighbouring huts, made an impression
+which it will not be easy to forget.
+
+The fire, with its dancing flames and uneven light, shows up the ring
+of men squatting round it. Everything beyond is shrouded in
+impenetrable gloom, throwing out the wild picturesque figures, with
+their bronzed and honest faces, in bold relief. The ruddy glare rounds
+off all hard corners and softens every inharmonious line, flashing
+fitfully here and there on a steel revolver barrel. The musical voices
+rise and fall, and outside the stars are shining. All is peace and
+calm.
+
+That first evening a young shepherd, strikingly handsome, with
+clean-cut features, went outside and sang a wild Albanian song in our
+honour, his weird chanting echoing in the mountains. Then came a
+crackling of pistol-shots from the near distance, a novel way of
+applause. With very happy feelings we rolled ourselves in our great
+coats and went to sleep.
+
+Next morning we rose at five, and had a delightful wash in a stream of
+icy-cold water. As usual, our ablutions caused much amusement. The
+mountaineer contents himself with a ladle of water poured into his
+hands. Very shortly afterwards the captain arrived. He insisted on
+going out shooting with us, as well as the schoolmaster. We plunged
+into the forest and were soon deep in the excitement of stalking.
+
+P. was with the captain, and the schoolmaster and myself soon lost
+them. Later on, I too lost my companion, and it being near our
+advertised time for dining, I made my way back, which presented very
+little difficulty. On coming in view of the clearing I was received
+with shouts. Not being gifted with the Montenegrin skill at hearing
+and talking at great distances I walked on, and was ultimately able to
+distinguish the question as to where I had left P. I answered that I
+had not seen him for hours, and passed on to our hut.
+
+The excitement seemed to wax, and Dr. S. speedily enlightened me as to
+the cause. Both the captain and the schoolmaster had returned, _i.e._
+they had stood and talked from a hill about a mile away, saying that
+P. was lost.
+
+"Well," I said, "P. knows at what time we eat, and I have never known
+him to be late for a meal yet. And it is in an hour's time."
+
+"But the woods are dangerous. There are bears. The Albanian frontier
+is not far away. He can lose himself for hours," were among the
+remarks that I could hear.
+
+"Considering that he has a magazine carbine and a revolver, I don't
+think that we need be afraid. It is easy enough to find one's way
+back, and P. will have the sense to watch the sun. He has been out
+alone before in his life," I remarked, feeling rather irritated.
+
+Then an old lady began abusing me for having deserted him, "and he so
+young, a mere child," etc., until I fairly lost my temper.
+
+"You must not take it amiss," explained the doctor, who knew me. "It
+is only their love for you."
+
+"Thanks," said I. "But that is enough. If that old lady doesn't stop
+expressing her love for me shortly ----. Look here, doctor," I
+continued, waxing wrath, "you stop her. You understand the more
+talkative sex better than I do. I'll stop the men."
+
+About ten minutes before dinner P. turned up, serenely unconscious of
+the trouble, telling us how he had found a delightful shepherd, who
+had carried him off to his shanty and feasted him on bread and milk,
+but that he was still ravenously hungry. The incident did not close
+here either. When P. heard of the anxiety caused by his absence he
+took it as a personal insult to himself, and began abusing everyone
+in his turn. But all the same, the people remained obdurate, and we
+were never left alone, though they let us ramble whither we wished.
+
+Our dinner that day was a kind of feast of honour to the captain. The
+lamb was served, as usual, whole. Half a dozen men joined us besides
+our party. The doctor, P., and I had knives and forks and a plate
+apiece.
+
+"Help yourself to all you want at the beginning," said the doctor
+kindly. "Take as much as you think you can possibly stow away."
+
+We were glad afterwards that we had followed the doctor's advice, for
+when we had finished helping ourselves the men fell upon that lamb and
+rent it limb from limb with their horny hands. Montenegrins have not
+pretty table manners. Forks are superfluous, a hunting-knife will do
+for the bread, and spoons are only used for fluids, when they dip in
+the common bowl.
+
+That evening we went out shooting in another direction, and were amply
+rewarded for an exceeding tiring climb, although deer were not
+abundant. In fact, the moment that the shepherds take possession of
+the mountains, game nearly always disappears, returning with the peace
+and solitariness of the autumn.
+
+On the following day we left Raskrsnica at an early hour _en route_
+for Andrijevica, which lies at a considerably lower altitude than
+Kolasin. Consequently we had a lot of downhill work. We had another
+magnificent view of the Kom on our way, but otherwise our ride of
+about six hours was uneventful. Andrijevica is first seen from a great
+height, and really looks quite close.
+
+"Half an hour," said our guides, "will see us in the town."
+
+The descent was of a breakneck description, and had to be done on
+foot. The heat was tremendous, and, the way proving to be an hour and
+a half, our tempers suffered. It was about noon when we rode into the
+little town or village, for it is nothing more, though the capital of
+the Vasovic district, Montenegro's most eastern and consequently most
+dangerous possession. It borders on Gusinje, the wildest and fiercest
+of Albania's clans.
+
+The office of the Governor, or Voivoda, to give him his proper
+Montenegrin title, corresponding to our word Duke, is therefore no
+sinecure. His position calls for more diplomacy and acumen than any
+other in the country. A false move, a thoughtless action or word could
+plunge the tribes of Northern Albania and Montenegro in a fierce
+warfare. But a few weeks after our departure, war very nearly did
+break out at Mokra, over a dispute as to the rights of a small
+grazing-ground, and was only averted at the last moment. Then
+Andrijevica was full of troops, for 25,000 Albanians stood fully armed
+on the border, and a pistol-shot would have started an invasion of
+Montenegro.
+
+[Illustration: ANDRIJEVICA]
+
+The little township is prettily situated on a slight eminence at the
+junction of the Lim and the Perusica, the former a tributary of the
+Danube. It has a population of five hundred clad in the white Albanian
+dress, and is celebrated, rightly or wrongly, for the beauty of its
+women. Certainly our landlady was a pretty enough looking woman of
+most refined manners. The men are very fine-looking fellows. The
+country all round is magnificent.
+
+Our inn was also the town bakery, and we had a nice large bedroom well
+stocked with flies, and real beds, though in daytime it was the dining
+and drawing-room combined.
+
+Really many of the inns we visited in Montenegro could be aptly
+described by the song sung in London a few years ago of a coster
+describing his home. He informed the audience that if they wanted to
+see his library, his kitchen, or his best spare bedroom, "You just
+stops where you is." In slightly more grammatical language, it could
+be well applied to these hostels.
+
+Towards evening we were taken and presented to Voivoda Lakic Voivodic,
+who was sitting in semi-state before the house of a rival
+drinking-place.
+
+He had a remarkably strong face, and was of powerful build. Speedily
+we were introduced to his adjutant, the town captain, and other
+officials, and a great circle was formed of which we were the centre
+of attraction. Our arms were brought out and examined with great glee
+and appreciation; also our field-glasses came in for their usual share
+of admiration, and our clothes were likewise carefully overhauled.
+
+When we laughingly said that we hoped for some sport with the
+Albanians and perhaps to shoot a few, our popularity was complete; our
+backs were clapped, and a great scene of joy and enthusiasm took
+place. Such remarks are liable to be taken rather literally in this
+region.
+
+We gave the Voivoda and his adjutant a dinner one evening, the best
+that we could manage, though it certainly was not the kind of feast to
+which one would ordinarily invite a Duke.
+
+Being five of us, our table was not big enough, so we joined on a
+second smaller and lower table at which the doctor and P. sat. P. put
+a salt-cellar between the upper table and the lower, saying that as
+they now sat "below the salt," they could behave as they liked. It was
+a most uproarious meal, and later on the Voivoda retired to a bed
+which was just behind him to laugh himself out.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH PARADE]
+
+On Sunday we went to church--at least we went _to_ the church and
+met the Voivoda outside. It was a very hot day and the little edifice
+was crowded. We had a suspicion that the worthy Voivoda came late on
+purpose. He just glanced at the crowd which had overflowed into the
+open space before the door, and to the relief of his staff proposed a
+quiet cup of coffee instead. Under the shade of the trees, discreetly
+apart from the merrymakers who were celebrating the Mass of a departed
+comrade, we sat in the customary ring and were served with coffee. It
+was a pleasant hour, and as the Voivoda, who was a bit of a wit, if
+somewhat irreverent, said, "This is better than inside."
+
+The church was about a quarter of a mile from the town and lay almost
+hid in a beautiful wood. The bells, as is often the case, were hung
+about a hundred yards away from the church on a wood scaffolding, and
+on the green grass sat many groups of Montenegrins.
+
+The occasion was a feast. Mass was being said for the soul of a man
+who had recently died, and it is the custom for the dead man's
+relations to give a feast to all comers. Large dishes of roast lamb
+were being handed round to the men who sat in circles, the women
+eating apart, and much spirit was drunk. About six priests were also
+present, feasting.
+
+We had altogether a very merry stay in Andrijevica, and the men of
+Vasovic are sturdy, honest, fearless, and excellent companions.
+
+Once, as I was admiring an old pistol worn by a man who was visiting
+us--for men were continually dropping in on us at any hour, in a most
+unceremonious fashion--he promptly took it off and gave it to me. It
+had been carried thirty years by a priest, he told me, before it came
+into his possession, and had killed at least twenty men. Afterwards I
+gave him a present of six florins.
+
+There are no police in Andrijevica, but the population take their turn
+to patrol the town at night with rifles. This is not to keep order
+amongst themselves, but as a guard against an eventual raid of
+Albanians. Crime is unknown in this mountain town.
+
+One afternoon we were startled to see half a dozen Turkish officers
+ride into the town, accompanied by an escort of Turkish soldiers, all
+fully armed. They were proceeding to Gusinje, where fighting had been
+taking place and many men had been killed. It is very curious to
+observe the way that the Turkish and Montenegrin authorities visit
+each other, for the intricate formation of the border often
+necessitates the traversing of a small portion of the other's country.
+Owing to the danger, everyone goes fully armed. The greatest possible
+harmony reigns between the Turks and Montenegrins, as the formidable
+array of Turkish decorations which adorn the breasts of all
+Montenegrin border officials will testify. The Albanian is the only
+cause of trouble, and it is chiefly against him that the Albanian
+borders are garrisoned by Turkish troops.
+
+In the above-mentioned border dispute, the Turks sent down a
+formidable army to assist the Montenegrins and prevent an incursion
+into a friendly state. Truly things have changed very much, for it was
+not so very many years ago that Albania held aloof when Turk and
+Montenegrin were fighting. Their sympathies, if for either side, were
+with the Montenegrins, and now the hated Turk throws himself into the
+balance for Montenegro.
+
+No man goes any distance unarmed. A rifle is part and parcel of his
+being. So it is that visiting Albanians carry theirs too, and it is no
+uncommon sight to see eight or ten Gusinje men, conspicuous by their
+white head-cloths, rifles slung over their shoulders, and a girdle of
+cartridges, come into Andrijevica to market, or perhaps even to
+consult the Voivoda on a question of blood-guilt.
+
+No one knows in these parts when an alarm will be given, either by
+trumpet-call or rapid magazine firing, and each man must be ever
+prepared to hurry to the appointed rendezvous at a moment's notice. If
+he be guarding his flock, eating at home, or carrying produce to the
+market, it is the same; his rifle must be ready to his hand and
+everything left standing to answer the call to arms. Life is very
+real on these turbulent borders, and a chance dispute may assemble a
+brigade of Montenegrins and a horde of Albanians, each ready to attack
+the other on the spot. The shepherd private knows where to find his
+section commander, the latter, on completion of his section, meets his
+company officer, companies assemble, battalions form, and the brigade
+is ready within an hour or two.
+
+Such is the state of affairs to-day along the whole Albanian frontier,
+but nowhere to such a degree as in the provinces bordering on Gusinje.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our ride to
+Velika--The fugitive from a blood-feud and his story--We arrive at
+Velika--The men of Velika--The menu--Border jurisdiction--A
+shooting-match--The Kom--Pleasant evenings--A young
+philosopher--Sunset.
+
+
+One evening the Voivoda invited us to ride with him on an official
+visit to Velika, an offer which we eagerly accepted.
+
+Velika is a narrow strip of Montenegrin territory lying practically in
+Albania, or rather Gusinje, for the men of Gusinje owe and give no
+allegiance. Velika is not cut off from Montenegro, but the mountain
+connecting it with, so to speak, the mainland is steep and almost
+inaccessible, besides entailing a long and weary detour of many hours.
+Therefore our path to-day would lead us across an intervening strip of
+Gusinje territory.
+
+Next morning at an early hour saw us in our saddles, the Voivoda
+having first ascertained that our arms were in good order. "Not that
+there is any danger," he said. "But we never know if anything may
+happen, and it is well just to be prepared."
+
+Besides the Voivoda, we were accompanied by his adjutant, a
+lieutenant in the standing army, who had studied in Italy, and an
+escort of about six men, armed with modern magazine rifles. Later on,
+this escort was materially increased.
+
+About three hours' ride up the magnificent valley of the Lim brought
+us to a khan, and here we found another half-dozen men awaiting us,
+and another officer. These preparations seemed rather formidable for a
+journey of about an hour through a friendly country, but we knew
+already the uncertainty of the Albanian temper, and did not wonder.
+
+As we led our horses across a rickety wooden bridge, the Voivoda
+called to us and said we were now about to enter Albania, and spoke of
+the temporary armed alliance between England and Montenegro, which
+remark seemed to please him greatly. A great cairn of stones marked
+the border, and the adjutant reined in his horse, for we were going to
+ride in single file, to tell us that it would be better to unsling our
+carbines. "It looked better," he said. Many Albanians could be seen
+working peacefully in their fields, and huts dotted the
+mountain-sides. It was a scene of agricultural peace, enhanced by
+magnificent scenery.
+
+Suddenly, at some distance, two rifle-shots were distinctly heard, and
+the calm of the picture was as rudely and suddenly disturbed as if an
+earthquake had happened. The peaceful peasants stooped, throwing away
+the spade, and in exchange each had a Martini rifle in his hand, which
+he rapidly loaded from the bandolier of cartridges round his waist.
+Men rushed out of the slumbering cottages, and a great shouting
+commenced.
+
+"It is nothing," said the adjutant. "They become excited like this
+very often."
+
+But I noticed our escort closing in, and every man's face wore a look
+of great interest. Still we rode on, just as if nothing unusual were
+happening.
+
+To our left the hill ascended to a great height, and about one-third
+of the way up a belt of trees commenced, stretching to the top.
+Towards this wood ran hundreds of Albanians, and disappeared from
+view. I confess that I had a most uncomfortable feeling that I was
+being covered by many unseen rifles. We should have stood a poor
+chance had they begun firing at us, for there was practically no cover
+near.
+
+But our pace, that of a smart walk, neither increased nor decreased,
+and it ill became me to show my innermost feelings to these fearless
+mountaineers who so evidently considered this sudden excitement a most
+everyday occurrence.
+
+The noise of the shouting, however, continued, and was answered by men
+in all directions. It was a regular pandemonium of yelling fiends, for
+the Albanians are not beautiful to look upon.
+
+Suddenly a man appeared from some bushes close to our little party and
+headed straight for us, running like a deer.
+
+He had barely reached us and seized my stirrup leather, on which he
+hung, panting heavily, when from the woods emerged a pursuing crowd,
+brandishing their rifles as they ran. Within a few minutes we were
+surrounded by about a hundred and fifty Albanians, whose gestures were
+not to be misunderstood.
+
+They wanted to kill the man at my stirrup, who looked beseechingly up
+to me for protection. Why he selected me I have no idea, and I did not
+relish the compliment at all. Our escort formed a meagre ring around
+us, and we were forced to halt.
+
+"Are they going to shoot?" I asked the adjutant, who was next to me,
+in excusable excitement, "because if so, I would like to dismount."
+
+It was not a pleasant feeling, perched up on a horse within fifty
+yards of reputed good marksmen.
+
+"Oh no," answered the officer, "they only want the man, not you."
+
+"Still, you are not going to hand back the man, are you?" I asked in
+Italian.
+
+"We must hear what the Voivoda says," said the adjutant, shrugging his
+shoulders.
+
+I looked at the man, while an excited conversation was carried on by
+our party and the Albanians, and found him a pleasant-looking young
+man; his breath was coming in great gasps from his heaving breast, but
+otherwise he showed no traces of excitement.
+
+"Save me," he said in broken Serb. "They fired at me as I was working
+in my field. I am blood-guilty."
+
+All this time his pursuers were evidently debating if our lives must
+be sacrificed as well, for to shoot the man meant killing some of us
+at any rate.
+
+At this juncture several Albanians came to us and ranged themselves on
+our side, and amidst still greater excitement we began again moving
+forward.
+
+"It is all right," laughed the adjutant, who throughout preserved the
+same air of utter indifference. "They daren't shoot, the cowards, and
+we shall take him to Velika with us, and then decide what to do with
+him."
+
+"You don't seem to mind this sort of thing much," I said, "but for a
+beginner like myself it appears rather nervous work."
+
+"Oh no," he answered. "I live here, and have been in many border
+fights. They always make a noise like that, and they very seldom shoot
+at big people."
+
+"But if they do?" I queried.
+
+"Oh, well, we must all die once," he laughed.
+
+In another half-hour we passed the second landmark, and were informed
+we were again in Montenegrin territory. Our friendly Albanians left
+us, and rifles were more carelessly carried.
+
+"What hast thou done?" I asked the fugitive at my stirrup. "Tell me
+thy story."
+
+"I am a doomed man; my days are numbered," he said, smiling, and
+rolling a cigarette. "But life is sweet, and I wish to live a little
+longer."
+
+Strange, this man who was at death's door barely an hour ago, was
+smiling and smoking happily as he walked by my side. He had a most
+fascinating smile and laughing eyes, and now that the immediate danger
+was over he had forgotten it.
+
+"Some months ago in my village, many hours from here, a woman fell in
+love with me," he said. "She was beautiful and I loved her too, but
+not so much as she loved me, for I feared her. She hated her husband,
+who beat her. One evening she came to me when her husband was away and
+told me that she loved me and that we would fly together. 'I love thee
+as I hate my husband, and see, if thou wilt not do this, I will break
+my spinning-wheel before thee.' And I trembled, for now I knew that my
+life was doomed. For should I not take her, she must kill me as sure
+as there is a God in heaven, and if I fled with her, her husband and
+his relations would surely track me down. And she was very beautiful,
+and we must all die. So we fled here that same night. What could I
+do?" he asked, smiling again.
+
+[Illustration: VELIKA]
+
+"But why stay here?" I asked.
+
+"Because," he answered, "my brothers live here and I must stay here
+till I die. If I am not to be found, then my brothers must die for me.
+It will not last long, for there are many bags of money on my head. My
+enemy is a rich man."
+
+"But," he went on, "wilt thou ask the Voivoda, who is a good man, to
+give me a magazine rifle and some cartridges? See my rifle, it is old,
+and I have but five cartridges left. For thee he will do it, and so I
+can die fighting a good fight, and perhaps can kill two or three of my
+enemies first. To-day I have wounded one."
+
+"I will ask the Voivoda," I replied, "though I doubt if I have any
+influence with him. Ask him thyself."
+
+I did ask the Voivoda, but he said the thing was impossible. He had no
+rifles to give away. But our fugitive continued his request at
+intervals for the rest of the time that he was with us.
+
+At Velika, a collection of half a dozen houses, very charmingly
+situated in a valley, we halted and rested for many hours while the
+Voivoda transacted business and received reports from a very young
+officer who held this dangerous command. We commented on his youth,
+and were told that his father, recently dead, had held the position,
+and that he had inherited it. "Besides," continued our informant, "he
+is quite up to his work."
+
+As we dismounted, our escort unloaded their rifles, the snapping of
+locks and breeches bringing the excitement of the last hour or two
+vividly back to our memory.
+
+The men of Velika were fierce-looking and of great stature. Rifle,
+handjar, and revolver were carried by all. Our escort were equally
+fine men, that fearless look so characteristic of the Montenegrin
+race, being accentuated here. Yet the faces are pleasing, honest, and
+good-tempered. There is to be found in the world no more splendid
+specimens of fighting humanity than the Montenegrin borderer. Brave,
+reckless to a fault, with absolutely no fear of death, inured to every
+hardship, and able to live and thrive on the barest fare, they are
+typical of the old Viking, chivalrous and courteous, with the purest
+blood of the Balkans flowing in their veins.
+
+Our meal was sumptuous. Fish shot in the river by one of our escort on
+the way, a bowl of ground maize cooked in oil, raw ham, eggs, bread,
+cheese and onions, the whole washed down in draughts of fiery spirits.
+Not a feast, I grant you, in an epicurean sense, but highly acceptable
+in Montenegro. We were waited upon by two women, who were always most
+careful to leave the room backwards. Our meal was very jolly, and at
+its conclusion we took corners in the room and slept. About three p.m.
+we started again for home, taking the fugitive with us.
+
+He had decided to return to his farm, but as we neared the Gusinje
+strip of land where he lived the extreme nervous tension of the
+morning returned to him. Poor devil, it would be difficult to forget
+the sharp sighs which burst from him, when his control over himself
+left him for a moment, but it was with a smile and a cigarette between
+his lips that he left us, bounding over the ground like a deer.
+
+In all probability he is dead by now.
+
+In Gusinje we made a lengthy halt, while the Voivoda settled several
+boundary disputes between the inhabitants, our escort taking up
+commanding positions all round us and keeping a very sharp look-out.
+
+It would seem that the Voivoda has right of jurisdiction in this strip
+of land, though how we were unable to elicit. At any rate Albanians
+came and stated their cases, bringing witnesses, and amongst great
+noise the Voivoda gave his judgments, which seemed to be final.
+
+On re-entering Montenegro we dismounted on the bank of the River Lim;
+the Voivoda pointed out a stone on the opposite side about three
+hundred yards distance, and taking a rifle he fired at it. In a few
+seconds we were all shooting at it in turn, the Voivoda acting as
+umpire with the aid of my field-glasses. It seemed a risky thing to do
+in a country so easily alarmed, but no rapid firing was allowed.
+
+The shooting was moderately good.
+
+As the last shot had been fired, and some of us already mounted, a
+corporal from Andrijevica came up at a trot, bringing a telegram for
+the adjutant. It contained the notification of his promotion to a
+captain.
+
+This led to a salvo of revolver-shots and cheers, and we proceeded on
+our way.
+
+At the first khan (Morina) we stopped for coffee, and found two or
+three hundred men assembled under the command of the district captain.
+Had anything happened to us, revenge would have come very quickly.
+Here our additional escort left us, and our long ride home was
+commenced, which ended in the dark.
+
+It was a nasty ride, for both P. and Stephan's horses came down
+repeatedly, and the path was constantly about two hundred feet above
+the Lim. It requires care in the daytime, but in the uncertain light
+of evening it was distinctly dangerous. Both horses were done up, and
+Stephan lost his temper, and we saw him in his true colours, as
+he kicked and beat his unlucky animal. It was not till I took very
+energetic measures that he would stop, which amused the Voivoda
+immensely.
+
+[Illustration: MORINA]
+
+[Illustration: THE FUGITIVE OF VELIKA]
+
+[Illustration: THE VASOJEVICKI KOM]
+
+[Illustration: ALBANIANS AND MONTENEGRINS AT ANDRIJEVICA]
+
+P.'s horse was ill--in fact, it was his last journey. A few days
+afterwards he died from inflammation of the lungs, contracted at
+Velika that day.
+
+We went for a few days' shooting on the Vasojevicki Kom, and were
+handed over by the Voivoda to one called Vaso, a rich peasant of the
+district. He swore to be answerable for our safety, with his head and
+all that was his, and we lived with him for many days on the side of
+the mighty mountain.
+
+The shooting was not good, however; it was not the season, but
+otherwise our stay was very pleasant. The grassy plateau was about
+five thousand feet high and bitterly cold at night; below us, on
+either side, stretched great beech forests, and the Kom rose abruptly
+before us.
+
+Our hut was large and roomy, but draughty to an extreme. At night the
+icy wind whistled through its crevices, and we had to bury our heads
+in blankets. The whole family shared it with us, and in one corner
+stood an unwearied calf, too tender to brave the cold of the outside.
+
+Those evenings which we spent round the fire are impossible to
+describe adequately. Tired from a long day's tramping and sliding
+through the forests, often wet to the skin from heavy showers, the
+peace and warmth of that camp fire were delightful.
+
+The shepherds came from far and near, and asked us many questions: if
+we carried an apparatus for making banknotes (this is not meant as an
+insult, but a common belief that Europeans can fabricate their
+paper-money at will--a belief of which we had sadly to disillusionise
+them); if our glasses could show us Belgrade, and so on--questions
+sometimes so difficult to answer that we had to give them up. Then
+they would talk of themselves; the older men would tell of past deeds,
+of fighting and bloodshed, and the fitful glow of the fire would light
+up their animated faces and picturesque costumes.
+
+Great simple children they were, unknown in the art of lying, and yet
+they repeat stories of bygone battles and slaughter, which they have
+heard and believed, as gospel truth. Like Esau, with the smell of the
+field upon them, they love to listen, too, to stories of unknown
+lands, where the houses are even larger and finer than those of
+Cetinje or Podgorica, which towns many even have not seen; but too
+much of the outside world one cannot tell them, for then they look
+hurt at being deemed so childish. They are curious, too, as are all
+children, and love to examine the clothes which we strange foreign
+creatures wear. There they sit on the hard earthen floor, as happy and
+contented as princes, nay, more so, for they have no cares to trouble
+them. They proffer us their tobacco tins, accepting ours in return,
+touching their caps as they do so; then the cigarette, deftly rolled,
+is lit by a glowing ember, which they rake from the fire, and the now
+burning cigarette is handed to us to light from. Again we all touch
+our caps, for it is rigid etiquette, in accepting a light, to
+acknowledge the courtesy by a half military salute. In the corner the
+calf will moan, and we, now half asleep, will stretch out our weary
+limbs, draw our coats and blankets over us, and to the murmur of the
+now subdued conversation, find forgetfulness in sweet sleep.
+
+I remember a conversation with a boy of about fifteen, who was out
+shooting with me, and acting as my guide and beater.
+
+It was nearing sunset, and we sat and rested on a ridge which
+overlooked both sides of the valleys.
+
+He asked me so many questions that I asked him if he had never even
+been to Podgorica.
+
+"No," he said, "I shall never go."
+
+"Why?" I asked.
+
+"Because I am content here. If I went to that great town, I should be
+ashamed of my ragged clothes. I should want to buy the beautiful
+things which they tell me are to be bought in the shops, and not
+having money I should be sad. No; it is better never to have seen such
+magnificence."
+
+"But," I argued, "if thou goest to Podgorica, thou wouldst find work.
+Even I could get thee employment."
+
+"No," he repeated; "my home is in the mountains. In time I would have
+to return here, and I should be miserable with the remembrance of
+those happy days."
+
+This boy had been taught at the school, and he told me the capitals of
+the great countries, which were nothing more than empty names to him.
+He knew, also, a few words of German, about two phrases, though how he
+picked them up was hard to make out.
+
+He liked to ask me questions about England, Montenegro's friend in
+past times of trouble, and seemed surprised to hear that I had seen
+snow before I came to his land.
+
+His father said that the boy was stupid and a dreamer, but I thought
+differently of him.
+
+P. joined me, and together we watched the sunset. On our left towered
+the Kom, and running in an unbroken chain circled a mountain range,
+ending in the setting sun. Low down an angry bank of clouds hung over
+the distant peaks, and into this mass of black and grey the sun, in
+all its glory of yellow and gold, sank slowly. The hills between us
+seemed wild and mysterious. Away to our left, in gloomy confusion, the
+Albanian Alps reared their heads, lit here and there with a red gleam
+of sunlight. At our feet, shrouded in impenetrable blackness, lay two
+steep ravines. The sun sank, leaving a weird eerie feeling behind, and
+we found ourselves strangely cold.
+
+We spent many days with Vaso, shooting with indifferent results, but
+revelling in the glories of nature.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+We leave Andrijevica--Our additional escort--The arrival at our
+camping-place--In an enemy's country--The story of one Gjolic--Our
+slumbers are disturbed--Sunrise on the Alps--We disappoint our
+escort--"Albanian or Montenegrin?"--A reconnaissance--The Forest of
+Vucipotok--The forbidden land--A narrow escape--We arrive at
+Rikavac--Rain damps our ardour--Nocturnal visitors.
+
+
+We left Andrijevica finally one morning about eight a.m. for our many
+days' ride along the Albanian frontier to Podgorica. Everyone turned
+out to bid us farewell, from the Voivoda, who expressed his regret
+that we had seen no one shot, downwards. The Voivoda's son and a small
+party accompanied us to the outskirts of the town, where a quaint
+notice-board bears the inscription that, on pain of a fine, shooting
+is forbidden within the prescribed limits.
+
+Here, after much hand-shaking and promises to come again, we mounted,
+and drawing our revolvers, replied right merrily to the farewell
+volleys of our friends. It is a pleasant custom that--shooting at
+parting.
+
+[Illustration: THE RAVINE OF TERPETLIS]
+
+We rode for two or three hours along the Perusica valley till we came
+to a small and scattered village, Konjuhe, where we dismounted for a
+rest. It was the birthplace of the Voivoda, and his brother still
+lived there. He was immediately sent for. When he heard of our
+proposed tour, he insisted on our taking an additional escort (besides
+Dr. S., and Stephan our servant, we had engaged another man, named
+Milan, in Andrijevica) of at least two men, as the country was just
+now in a very dangerous condition. The necessary guard was soon found,
+and after a long halt owing to a heavy shower, we were able to proceed
+on our way, first carefully loading our rifles and overhauling our
+revolvers. Our two men were quite celebrated for a famous raid into
+Gusinje, in which they had played an active part a short time ago.
+They had killed several Albanians, and captured two hundred sheep. As
+the Albanians would shoot them at sight, they seemed hardly fitted to
+act as an escort; but then every man from that part is engaged, more
+or less, in a blood feud across the border.
+
+We commenced climbing almost directly, and the ascent lasted for the
+rest of the day. The scenery was grand. On our right the majestic Kom,
+still covered with snow; falling away precipitously to the left was
+the deep ravine of Terpetlis, through which a mountain torrent dashed;
+and rising high on the other side, and forming the boundary between
+Montenegro and Albania, was a magnificent rocky ridge. We dismounted
+at one point to breathe our horses, and made our midday meal off wild
+strawberries.
+
+Further on we passed from the Vasovic into the Kuc. These two, the
+most warlike clans of Montenegro, were formerly under Turkish rule,
+and bitter foes. But when war broke out, they forgot their old enmity
+and joined hand-in-hand with Montenegro to drive out the still more
+hated Turk. Since then they have lived together in peace and harmony.
+
+On nearing our camping-ground for the night, our two guards ran on to
+draw the fire from any concealed Albanians, while we followed more
+leisurely. The scenery was wild in the extreme, though differing very
+slightly from that which we had experienced during the last few weeks.
+Great woods stretched half-way down the mountain to the torrent, and
+up again on the further side. Immense boulders, with an occasional
+tree growing out of a crevice, and every here and there clumps of
+firs, every yard affording excellent cover for a hidden enemy.
+
+Our destination was Carina, a collection of stone huts on an open
+green slope, which reaches up to the rocky sides of the Kom. It is the
+highest point inhabited in Montenegro by the shepherds in the summer,
+and lies over five thousand feet above the sea-level. During this
+period of the annual migration to the hills, the district is
+comparatively safe. The Albanians do not attack large parties, but
+rather stragglers, as larger numbers have an unpleasant habit of
+organising themselves into avenging bands to repay the visit with
+interest.
+
+Not a soul was to be seen anywhere, not a living being of any
+description. In a shower of pelting rain we took possession of the
+largest hut. It is decidedly annoying to get thoroughly wet at the end
+of a long day, and the prospect of a night in damp clothes was in no
+way pleasing. The hut was damp and cold, and it had the chilly feeling
+which only comes from a long period of emptiness, and strikes to the
+marrow. But our men turned to with a will, cleaning out the hut,
+strewing it with very wet rushes, and piling up a big log-fire in the
+middle. We were pretty hungry, too, a couple of eggs at six a.m. and a
+few strawberries at midday are not much to go on, and we had been in
+the saddle for over ten hours. Stephan had brought amongst other
+things some raw bacon, which he gave me, but, hungry as I was, I could
+not face that. Later on, a happy thought struck me, and I went and
+toasted it over the fire. I do not recollect ever relishing food so
+much in my life. About a couple of hours later a lamb had been
+roasted, and we were able to make a decent meal.
+
+It was getting rapidly dark now, and watch had to be kept outside. The
+horses were picketed close at hand for fear of wolves, as well as
+Albanians. By the time that we had finished eating, night was upon us.
+It was pitch dark and no moon. Rather reluctantly I turned out to do
+my share of sentry-go in the bitter cold. But it was decidedly
+interesting, as one of our party began to tell stories of the usual
+blood-curdling nature. On emerging from the hut, I thoughtlessly
+remained standing for a few seconds in the low doorway which, as the
+fire was blazing brightly inside, showed up my figure strongly against
+the surrounding gloom. Before I knew where I was I was roughly seized
+by a man and thrown forcibly into the darkness. He intimated that I
+must be a fool to court death in that manner. For all we knew, he
+said, a dozen Albanians might be hiding around us and waiting for such
+an easy shot. And when I was not allowed to smoke, I realised that we
+were in an enemy's country.
+
+Watch was kept all night by two men, one sitting on the roof, or on an
+elevation which commanded it, and the other patrolling round with a
+sharp eye on the horses. The roof must always be watched, for the
+Albanians usually creep up and climb on to it--it is always
+conveniently low--they then remove a board and shoot the sleeping
+inmates.
+
+During my watch I was told the following story, which brings out many
+interesting traits of the Montenegrin character.
+
+A certain man named Gjolic, of the tribe of Vasovic, killed two men of
+his clan over a love affair, and promptly fled to Gusinje, the country
+just opposite Carina, and inhabited by a tribe of Albanians, famed
+for their blood-thirstiness and hatred of strangers. The only passport
+to their land is crime, and no one but a fugitive from justice can
+hope to enter, or leave it, alive. Gjolic swore to have revenge on his
+clan, and in this respect he was a notable exception. He came
+repeatedly across the border, often in broad daylight, shooting anyone
+whom he met. He soon became the terror of the whole Vasovic. In the
+neighbourhood of Carina he had shot many shepherds, and last autumn he
+murdered a youth of sixteen. This was too much, and two men laid their
+heads together. To obtain the necessary right of entrance to Gusinje,
+they crossed over into Turkey and deliberately stole a cow, taking
+care at the same time that they should be arrested and sentenced to
+punishment. Their plan acted admirably, and they effected their
+escape, fleeing to Gusinje, where they were received in a friendly
+manner. But Gjolic was away, and for six months they waited for him in
+patience. At last news came that he was on his way home, and could be
+expected on a certain day. So the men went out to meet him, and began
+shooting fish in a river where he must pass. Fish shooting is a common
+and favourite sport of the people.
+
+"God help you," said a voice, "has your luck been good?"
+
+It was Gjolic who spoke.
+
+"Our luck is good," they answered, and following an imaginary fish
+with their rifles, they turned on him.
+
+Crack! Crack! Gjolic was dead.
+
+That scene I shall never forget. The starless night, all round the
+land lying enshrouded in impenetrable darkness, the low voice of the
+Montenegrin which rose with his excitement, but sank again immediately
+to a hoarse whisper, and on the barely discernible roof of the hut a
+black figure, with rifle at the ready, sitting motionless.
+
+It was eleven o'clock when I turned in, and the next man took his
+rifle and went outside to relieve one of the watchers. A roaring fire
+was kept going, for it was very cold, and round it lay the others
+sleeping, each with his rifle and revolver by his head. "And we are in
+Europe!" I said to myself, as I lay down to sleep, which, in spite of
+the mighty snoring of Dr. S., came almost immediately.
+
+It seemed but a few minutes since I had closed my eyes when a shot
+rang out, bringing me to my knees in an instant. It is not advisable
+to rise quickly in these huts without taking the roof into
+consideration, as I had learnt by bitter and repeated experience.
+Everyone awoke, except Dr. S., who snored on peacefully. However, I
+roughly awoke him, and we all dashed out, rifle in hand.
+
+One of our sentries stood peering into the gloom, and swore that he
+had seen a figure moving. We lay down and waited, but nothing came.
+
+Then slowly the day began to dawn, and with it our anxiety diminished.
+I went to get a cup of coffee, preparatory to climbing a part of the
+Kom. One of our guards, of course, accompanied me. That is the worst
+of these districts, we could never move a step without being followed.
+It was like being under police surveillance. Furthermore, I should
+have preferred to climb with a good stick; but no. Again that iron
+control ordered me to take my carbine, and loaded too.
+
+We reached a high ridge just in time to see the sun rise, and it lit
+up the snow-clad mountain-tops with an indescribable beauty. But so
+much has been written about the splendours of Alpine sunrises that it
+is needless to say more about it. Yet it was as beautiful as anything
+to be seen in Switzerland or the Tyrol. The ridge commanded a view in
+both directions. The Albanian Alps and the mountains behind the Moraca
+lay before us in one vast panorama, the latter looming up so close
+that it was difficult to believe that so many days' hard riding lay
+between us.
+
+After climbing one of the lower peaks, we descended again to our hut,
+which we reached shortly after six. Everyone was busy, washing,
+packing up, or even sleeping, which is an equally important business.
+To snatch half an hour's sleep here and there is an enviable art, and
+cannot be overrated. But, perched on a low stone wall, sat a guard all
+the time. Daylight does not imply safety.
+
+After breakfast, luxurious with toasted bacon, I emerged from the hut
+to find an excited group outside, one of whom was even lying down and
+aiming.
+
+"He is watching us. It is far better that we should finish him now
+than allow him to go on and report our movements," said the man,
+fingering his trigger lovingly.
+
+On looking I saw an Albanian about six hundred yards away, half hidden
+behind a boulder. The idea of shooting a man in this way did not seem
+quite sporting, and Dr. S. agreed with me. The men were extremely
+disappointed at our refusal to allow them to shoot. "He will follow us
+till we reach the wood," they said, "and then we shall repent it." The
+Albanian shortly afterwards disappeared, and we proceeded with our
+packing.
+
+About eight o'clock we left Carina, and had rather an unique
+experience in riding across several large snow fields which were quite
+hard, though the horses decidedly disliked the experiment. About an
+hour's ride brought us to a tiny church, solidly built of stone and
+standing on a ridge overlooking the whole country. It is used by the
+shepherds who migrate annually to the pasturages in this district.
+Only a few months ago the Albanians had broken into it and utterly
+dismantled it. On the iron door and on the shutters huge dents and
+even bullet splashes were plainly visible. Our Albanian we found here
+awaiting us, which was a plucky thing to do. Our guards hailed him
+with the cry of "Albanian or Montenegrin?" But he answered, "Friend."
+I think that our men showed him our rifles rather ostentatiously, and,
+as we were all armed with magazines and had plenty of ammunition, he
+must have thought that we should scarcely afford the desired sport. We
+did not see him again, though he took the same path which we were
+going to take. This incident put us very much on our guard, and we
+made preparations for the further journey with mixed feelings. Before
+us lay the dense wood of Vucipotok, which is the most ill-famed spot
+in Montenegro. It stretches unbrokenly down to Gusinje, and the bridle
+path which traverses it is the border line between the two countries.
+
+It was then settled that a guard and myself should climb a small hill
+overlooking the wood and its approach. However, we saw nothing, and
+soon rejoined our party. Before entering the wood, in the open, were
+two or three stones erected to murdered men--it is customary in
+Montenegro to put up either a pile of stones or a slab of rock where
+the body has been found. Inscriptions on the stones are very rare, the
+Vucipotok is too dangerous to waste much time in it, but wherever
+these stones are seen, a dead man, as often as not headless, has been
+found. Such memorial stones are to be found all over the country, but
+not in such plentiful profusion as we saw them now.
+
+Everyone dismounted, and with rather uncanny feelings we entered the
+forest. First of all went one of our escort, and then in single file,
+about ten paces apart, we followed. Rifles were held at the ready, and
+every boulder and tree carefully scanned. The path was atrocious,
+strewn with great stones, so that walking was no easy matter. When a
+particularly large boulder was reached, we would halt under its
+shelter to enable the horses to come up--they were following behind
+under the charge of one man. We did not exactly stroll through that
+wood.
+
+Every few paces stood a memorial stone. There was one put up to the
+memory of ten Montenegrins who were all shot down without seeing their
+enemy. Everyone shoots at sight here, and had we met our Albanian
+friend of the early morning, matters would have gone sadly with him.
+At one point I insisted on taking a photograph--much to everyone's
+disgust. The spot was where a famous Kuc general had been murdered.
+His head was taken in triumph to Scutari. Oddly enough, we ate our
+midday meal at his grave, for his friends took his body away from
+here and buried it in an open place directly overlooking the valley of
+Gusinje. I was rather hurried over the operation, as the Montenegrins
+distinctly objected to standing still, but they were all very tickled
+about it.
+
+[Illustration: THE PATH THROUGH THE VUCIPOTOK]
+
+The Vucipotok is used by young Montenegrins as a means of showing
+their bravery. They go straight through it alone, with their rifles
+over their backs, smoking cigarettes. This constitutes an act of
+reckless daring in their eyes. Some even go through, at some distance
+from the path, on the Albanian side. We met one young man leading his
+horse and strolling along as unconcernedly as though he were in
+Cetinje--so that we almost felt that we were being unduly impressed
+with a sense of danger. But afterwards we met another party who were
+proceeding with greater caution than we were. And then there were
+those memorial stones.
+
+At last the wood ceased, and in a clearing we made a halt. Our
+Montenegrins looked relieved. For themselves they have no fear, but
+had one of us been hit, the disgrace for them would have been
+unspeakable. It would have necessitated a raid into Albania of the
+most extensive kind, and hundreds might have fallen; the Montenegrins
+guard their visitors as they guard their honour, and in that case,
+life is only a secondary matter.
+
+We now climbed a very steep hill. At the top we had to dismount, as a
+narrow path, just wide enough for a horse, skirted along a great
+precipice, looking straight down about one thousand feet. It was a
+wonderful view, but not to be recommended to those suffering in any
+way from giddiness.
+
+We overlooked the great Vucipotok wood through which we had just
+passed, and the whole valley of Gusinje. When we reached a place where
+we were able to turn round with comfort, we stopped for the view. A
+long, narrow valley, inclosed by the Procletia or "Damnable
+Mountains," through which a river could be seen flowing, lay at our
+feet. This was Gusinje, the forbidden land. With the aid of
+field-glasses the town of Gusinje itself could be just distinguished,
+a square and apparently walled-in town.[4] Very picturesque it looked
+in the bright sunshine, the great green woods in the foreground, the
+solemn and majestic snow mountains and the peaceful valley. Yet it is
+inhabited by the most villainous and treacherous cut-throats in
+Europe, an absolutely untameable tribe, who would die to the last man
+to preserve their independence.
+
+[Footnote 4: This, however, is not the case, as we afterwards learnt.]
+
+When the path broadened out slightly our two guards left us and
+returned home. Both emptied their magazines into the air at parting,
+which we answered, and the din was tremendous. Below us was a small
+village or collection of shepherds' huts, and, in that moment,
+confusion reigned supreme. The men seized their rifles, the women
+rushed into the huts, dogs barked, and horses stampeded. It seemed
+rather thoughtless to thus alarm the village, but, on being
+remonstrated with, the men only laughed and fired another shot. Had it
+been a town below us the result might have been more serious.
+
+A little further on, we stopped for rest and food at a narrow pass
+overlooking Gusinje on the one side and Montenegro on the other. The
+murdered Kuc general, whose memorial stone we had seen earlier in the
+day, was buried here. Strange that his body should find its last
+resting-place overlooking the home of his murderers.
+
+By using the Montenegrin telephone (the art of talking at great
+distances), we ordered some milk from the village below, and drank it
+with that enjoyment which is only known to a thoroughly hungry and
+thirsty man.
+
+Our afternoon's ride was again particularly stiff. Climbing one hill,
+Dr. S., who was leading, missed the path, a very easy thing to do, so
+undefined as it sometimes is. He got on to a very steep and rocky bit
+of the hill and his horse lost its footing. It began stumbling and
+slipping about in a most alarming manner. We held our breath for the
+next few seconds, for a long fall was in store for him, and certain
+death. He tried to dismount, and succeeded in getting off his horse,
+but his foot stuck in the stirrup, the horse still sliding on.
+Fortunately, the animal recovered its balance, and Dr. S. extricated
+himself, but it was a nasty moment. That is the worst of the
+Montenegrins; they rely so implicitly on the sure-footedness of their
+ponies that they ride up anywhere, only condescending to dismount for
+very steep descents. And accidents often happen when horse or man, or
+even both, are killed; but this presumable laziness affords no example
+to others.
+
+About five p.m. we began anxiously inquiring the whereabouts of our
+night quarters. The usual Montenegrin _quart d'heure_ was given--and
+rightly enough. A sharp descent, lasting over an hour, made painfully
+on foot, saw us in a great hollow basin among the mountains, with the
+pretty lake of Rikavac at the further end and a small collection of
+wooden huts.
+
+To these we proceeded and were met by the village Fathers. Dr. S. was
+well known here and they had recognised him coming down. Five dear old
+boys they were, who kissed Dr. S. most affectionately, one unshaven
+old ruffian including me in his salute. I do not appreciate the
+Montenegrin custom of kissing among men; it is not pleasant. An empty
+hut was immediately put at our disposal. It was the most primitive
+and tumble-down habitation that we had had as yet. Of course it
+rained. It was almost the first rain on the trip, and we had to lie up
+here a whole day as P. was unwell and unable to ride. Everyone turned
+out to make the hut comfortable, but it was not a success. I lay down
+outside and promptly fell asleep, when a sharp thunderstorm came on
+and drove me inside. There was not a dry corner to be found. The rain
+came through in steady rivulets everywhere. There was no getting away
+from those persistent little streams, either head, body, or feet had
+to suffer--and the fire refused to burn. Added to that, the whole
+population crowded in to look at us. It was no fun at all Stephan
+stood cursing in German that he could not get near the fire to cook,
+and that he would not cook at all if the mob were not cleared out.
+This Dr. S. refused to allow, as it would be considered inhospitable.
+
+In course of time the rain stopped and our visitors left us, but only
+temporarily. Stephan cooked and we went outside to dry ourselves. The
+food was then ready, and after putting away a good meal we were able
+to view the world with more equanimity.
+
+After supper it came on to rain again and damped us thoroughly before
+going to bed. I was very annoyed to find, after having discovered as I
+fondly imagined a dry corner, that one of my pockets was full of
+water. I should not have been so irritated had my tobacco been in
+another pocket; it was a leather coat and held the water beautifully.
+Then we tried to go to sleep. My pillow was a stone, like Jacob's, and
+though I tried covering it with my coat it was of no avail, since the
+cold forced me to put it on again. I do not mind a hard bed, but a
+hard pillow is distinctly objectionable. We were just on the point of
+sleeping when in stalked two men for an after-supper smoke and chat,
+and one of them, to P.'s intense disgust, sat on his feet. It cost Dr.
+S. all his diplomacy to hint that we had been up since three a.m. and
+were disinclined to talk.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+More memorial stones--We get wet again--Unwilling hosts--A fall--The
+Franciscan of Zatrijebac--The ravine of the Zem--Methods of settling
+tribal differences--A change of diet and more pleasant evenings--A
+fatalist--Sunday morning.
+
+
+Punctually at eight a.m. next morning we took an affectionate farewell
+of the Fathers, though I mounted hurriedly first to avoid the
+repetition of the welcoming chaste salute.
+
+Our path lay for two hours over a rocky and barren country similar to
+the naked Katunska district round Cetinje. Gone were the rich green
+pasturages and wooded valleys in exchange for a waste of grey rocks.
+But a large wood was ultimately reached, only a little less dangerous
+than the wood of Vucipotok. Similar precautions were observed in
+passing through--in fact, our carbines were carried loaded again all
+day. The Albanian border was never more than a rifle-shot away.
+Numerous gentle reminders of the dangers of the path existed in the
+shape of memorial stones all the way along. We met several families,
+all fully armed of course, driving their flocks before them to the
+mountain grazing-grounds of the Kom.
+
+It was about one o'clock when we emerged on a large barren plateau.
+On the further side, just across the border, lay the Albanian village
+of Korito, which Dr. S. knew, and where we intended spending the rest
+of the day and night.
+
+Half-way across, a sudden storm of rain and hail came down, and I have
+never got wet through so quickly in my life. Within five minutes, the
+water was running out of my boots. My leather coat, though waterproof,
+let regular rivers down my neck. It was a rain that would not be
+denied, and icy cold.
+
+In that waterspout we sat and waited while Dr. S. hunted up his
+friends; but apparently they had all left, with their flocks. A few
+Albanians appeared, and by the dint of much persuasion Dr. S. induced
+them to show us an empty hut. As soon as they had done this they left
+us, looking at us in an unfriendly and suspicious manner. We got our
+baggage in as quickly as possible, and by this time we were shivering
+with cold. No wood could be seen, and Dr. S. again sallied forth, and
+by the aid of small bribes some wood was brought and we soon had a
+fire burning.
+
+However, our natural buoyancy rose again with the fire, and we made a
+very light meal off the food that we had with us. It was not more than
+a few mouthfuls apiece, but nothing could be got here. Then we
+solemnly stood round the fire and dried ourselves, the steam rising
+like pillars of cloud, and hiding our figures from each other. The
+warmth was very agreeable and comforting.
+
+Several Albanians now crowded in, examining our arms, and were so
+unfriendly, not to say threatening, that we hastily reconsidered our
+plans. Firstly and foremostly, we had no food, watch would have to be
+kept all the time, over the horses and at the hut, using up two men,
+so the prospect was not pleasing.
+
+So we saddled up and left about three for Zatrijebac, four hours'
+distance, happy to be rid of our unwilling hosts.
+
+The difference between the treatment of strangers by Albanians and
+Montenegrins was very marked.[5]
+
+Our path led us through the great wood of Kostice, and, owing to the
+recent heavy rain, the track, never very plain, was in parts entirely
+obliterated. Twice we lost ourselves, and once more a drenching shower
+came on, repeating the morning douche. Still we plodded on with
+stumbling horses over the slippery way till we emerged on the great
+plain or plateau of Zatrijebac. Zatrijebac is an Albanian clan several
+thousand strong who live under Montenegrin rule. They serve as
+Montenegrin subjects in the army, give no trouble except in occasional
+border fights with rival Albanian clans, and their bravery is
+proverbial. Further, they are Roman Catholics. The country is most
+curious, great slabs of stone lying about in a promiscuous fashion as
+if it had once rained them, and the path was certainly the most vile
+of the whole trip, which is putting it as strongly as possible.
+
+[Footnote 5: I have since learnt differently.--R.W.]
+
+It was climbing or rather scaling a small rock that my long-expected
+fall came. Alat, my horse, floundered badly at an angle of forty-five
+degrees and lost his balance completely. The doctor, who was behind,
+shouted to me to pull him up, but as I was sliding off his back with a
+broken girth at an ever-increasing velocity, I was unable to follow
+this very excellent advice. Down I came heavily on the stones, luckily
+on the high side of the path, landing on my back with my legs all
+mixed up in Alat's. My saddle and saddlebags followed me in quick
+succession, and something hit me violently over the head--that was my
+carbine. Providentially Alat stood still, and my cartridge belt saved
+my back.
+
+I got up when I could sort out my legs, making remarks to Dr. S. about
+that girth which he said afterwards were quite artistic. Many, many
+years ago the girth may have been good and strong, and it had
+undoubtedly seen better days. Next I sought one named Stephan. He had
+always assured me that it would last another week. Montenegrins are
+careless about such things.
+
+The rest of the way I had to walk, which dried me, as the path was
+steep and tiring. At the house of Dr. S. in Podgorica we had met a
+young Franciscan monk, a Neapolitan and a great student. He at once
+invited us to visit him in Zatrijebac, where he is the spiritual
+shepherd, and to spend a few weeks with him. On approaching a roofless
+church, in the course of rebuilding, we espied this young monk rushing
+to meet us. With all the fervour of his race, he embraced and kissed
+us repeatedly, welcoming us to his home. He gave me his bed, and the
+other remaining one was put at P.'s disposal, and he would not hear of
+our leaving next day or the next.
+
+There are but two other Roman Catholic churches in Montenegro, in
+Antivari and Dulcigno,[6] in fact only where the Albanians are in
+sufficient evidence.
+
+[Footnote 6: The Austrian Legation in Cetinje has also its own
+chapel.]
+
+We had intended to visit Zatrijebac at the beginning of our mountain
+tour, but the district was considered unsafe at that time. A quarrel
+over the appointment of a new captain had led to the relations of the
+disappointed candidate shooting the brother of the new captain. Two
+boys, aged fifteen and sixteen respectively, had ambushed their
+victim, and put no less than seven bullets into him at a distance of
+four hundred yards, which is pretty good shooting. The boys got away
+across the border, but wholesale arrests took place, and it is not
+well to visit districts thus excited. The young Franciscan repeated
+to us the story that evening round the kitchen fire, where we spent
+very many happy hours. He spoke of it sadly.
+
+"The vendetta is a terrible thing," he said. "It respects neither the
+laws of God nor man."
+
+Our host would not rest till he had shown me the famous view, and Dr.
+S. accompanied us. As one stands outside the church, a magnificent
+panorama is spread out, seemingly without a break. But should one wish
+to ascend the mountains opposite so temptingly near, a great ravine
+must be first descended. Ten minutes' walk brings one to the edge of a
+precipice 2,400 feet deep, so appalling and so sudden that one's
+breath is momentarily taken away. It is a spot to sit and meditate on
+the grandeur of the work of the Master of all architects. The majesty
+of that mighty ravine is, indeed, awe-inspiring.
+
+At the bottom, a mere tiny thread, flows the Zem, a river which has
+often run blood, and whose source is hardly known as it rises in the
+unknown Procletia, "the Accursed Mountains" of history. A wall of
+mountains rises beyond. Steep and precipitous as is the descent on the
+Zatrijebac side, still a path trodden daily by mountaineers winds and
+zigzags down to the bottom. Then as we seated ourselves on a carefully
+selected and safe ledge and gazed on this unique picture, the monk
+told us of a bloody battle fought not so very many years ago by the
+men of Zatrijebac and the clan of Hotti who inhabit the opposite
+mountains. It was a quaint illustration how questions of boundary
+lines are settled without the aid of expensive Courts of Arbitration.
+
+When the new frontier was laid down at the conclusion of the late war,
+the River Zem was Montenegro's limit. On the hill beyond lies a
+grazing-ground which has been used as a summer pasturage by the
+Zatrijebac from times immemorial. Though technically now belonging to
+Albania, and in particular to the clan of Hotti, the Zatrijebac still
+continued to drive their flocks across the ravine. The Hotti
+remonstrated, and finding this of no avail, took possession of the
+plateau. Their opponents coming over found the rival clan posted in a
+seemingly impregnable position on every point of vantage on that steep
+ascent. Though armed with inferior rifles (in those days), they
+attacked at once, and by reckless bravery came to hand-to-hand
+conflict. Then a terrible encounter ensued, men seized each other and
+threw themselves over the cliffs, and to complete the utter
+discomfiture of the Hotti, the Kuc came to the assistance of their
+neighbours and the Hotti were nearly annihilated. Since then no
+questions have been asked, and annually the cattle and sheep of
+Zatrijebac graze in peace in Albania.
+
+It was a very similar dispute which has happened so very recently at
+Mokra near Andrijevica.[7]
+
+Supper gave us a much needed change of diet. Boiled fowl and
+vegetables came as a luxury after days of tough and stringy lamb. We
+sat at a table again too, on chairs, and felt quite ashamed of our
+recently acquired habits.
+
+The evenings round the kitchen fire were just as delightful as our hut
+experiences, and if possible, more novel. Here we had fierce
+Albanians, with their half-shaven heads and scalping lock, and a
+scholar, a student of philosophy, a man of wonderful ideals, in the
+form of the young Franciscan, instead of unkempt shepherds.
+
+[Footnote 7: Since writing the above another tribal disturbance has
+taken place between the Zatrijebac and the Hotti. This time it was the
+Hotti who drove their flocks, also from time immemorial, to a certain
+spot in Zatrijebac, and as the latter tribe have since cultivated the
+intervening ground, they felt justly irritated. As the only real
+argument is the rifle, they met and argued the point in this fashion
+in February, 1902, and many fell on both sides. A notable incident
+which is worth recording is, that a man of Hotti fought on the side of
+the Zatrijebac against his brethren and was killed. His body was
+afterwards handed back and his clan demanded to know if he had fought
+as a man. "In the front rank," was the answer. Then they took the body
+and gave it an honourable burial and agreed to let the dispute drop.
+In this action our friend the monk had his habit riddled with bullets
+whilst attending the wounded.]
+
+Round the fire another evening an argument as to the wrongs of
+Fatalism, _i.e._ God's Will, led to a characteristic story by the monk
+in defence of his views. Dr. S., like many men who lead such lives as
+he does, was a rigid fatalist.
+
+An Albanian found his enemy in vendetta, working in a field. Hiding
+himself, he prayed to God and S. Nicholas to direct the bullet.
+
+"Lord," he prayed, "should I hit this man in the breast, then I shall
+know that I do this deed by Thy Will."
+
+He laid his rifle on a stone, took careful aim, and the other fell
+dead shot through the breast.
+
+"By God's Will I killed him," he answered, when the priest endeavoured
+to impress upon him his crime.
+
+The lighter side of nature was given us by another story.
+
+Shortly after the priest's arrival at Zatrijebac a half-naked man came
+to him. The worthy friar took pity on him and gave him a clean white
+shirt of his own.
+
+On the following Sunday during the Mass, as he turned to his
+congregation to give the Benediction, to his horror he saw the man
+with the shirt drawn over all his ragged clothes, in a front row. It
+was with the greatest difficulty, he concluded, that he could restrain
+a smile.
+
+We were afforded a novel and striking scene before we left Zatrijebac
+in the form of an open-air Mass on Sunday.
+
+The church being in the course of rebuilding, a rough altar had been
+hastily constructed, or rather knocked up--for it was of most crude
+workmanship--of wood planks on a small grass plot.
+
+From nine a.m. onwards the people began to assemble, coming from all
+parts of the large and straggling district, and sat about in groups
+gravely talking. Towards eleven o'clock a large number of peasants had
+arrived, and the altar was covered with not a fair white cloth as
+usual, but with something suspiciously resembling a long and not
+overclean towel. A tiny crucifix was placed upon it, and the young
+priest robed himself there in sight of the whole congregation.
+
+A group of elder men knelt or squatted on the small open space
+immediately in front of the High Altar, but the majority of
+worshippers ranged themselves under the shade of some small trees and
+on the low surrounding walls.
+
+These same trees bear weekly a strange and incongruous fruit, for they
+are used as pegs whereon the Albanians hang their rifles during
+service. All round, the walls are stacked with rifles, for, like the
+Puritans of old, they come to church fully armed with rifle, handjar,
+and revolver, and round their waists, the inevitable bandolier of
+cartridges.
+
+[Illustration: AFTER MASS AT ZATRIJEBAC]
+
+On approaching the altar every man pushed back the cloth which is
+swathed round his half-shaven head, and kneeling, piously crossed
+himself. The older men displayed even more reverence, and kissed
+the earth. The younger men were much the same as their cultured and
+civilised brothers, lounging through the service, half seated on a
+wall, and barely crossing themselves.
+
+But the general effect was one of great reverence and striking in the
+extreme. We watched this strange congregation with great interest, and
+during the most sacred part of the service, when all, even the blase
+young men, prostrated themselves, the effect was unique.
+
+Picture a cut-throat, shave half his head, leaving a tuft of hair on
+the back by which he kindly assists his victor to decapitate him,
+expecting a like consideration in return, long drooping moustachios,
+clad in Turkish clothes, a belt full of cartridges, with revolver and
+murderous-looking yataghan artistically displayed--of such was this
+congregation. Men who half-an-hour afterwards would shoot an enemy in
+the course of a vendetta, or otherwise, without any thought of
+remorse. Yes, and coolly cut off his head and bring it home to his
+admiring wife and daughters, now so discreetly and respectfully
+kneeling behind them. This is not an over-drawn picture. It happens
+often.
+
+Of such consisted the congregation under the green trees, blue sky,
+brilliant sunshine, in that perfect landscape this Sunday morning. And
+of such is peopled a part of the vast country of Albania. A people
+who hold human life as nothing--a reckless and brave nation of devout
+Roman Catholics.
+
+At the conclusion of the service we came in for a lot of inspection,
+and going in to dine soon afterwards we chanced to look out of the
+window overlooking the scene of the morning Mass. Still a great crowd
+hung about, and on the late High Altar sat men smoking cigarettes.
+After dinner we bade farewell to our young host, amidst honest regrets
+on both sides. The Franciscan had given us a new insight into the
+mysteries of life.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof--Keco's story--The laws
+of Vendetta and their incongruity--We return to Podgorica--The
+Montenegrin telephone--An elopement causes excitement--The Sultan's
+birthday--The reverse of the picture--A legal anomaly.
+
+
+"At Fundina," said Dr. S., "you will meet one of the modern heroes of
+Montenegro. A man named Keco, whose fame has reached to the uttermost
+ends of the land."
+
+We had bidden farewell to our host and were riding past the last
+houses and huts of the clan of Zatrijebac on our way to Fundina. The
+path tended downwards, and shortly the great plain of the Zeta burst
+suddenly into view as we rounded a corner of the mountains. Beyond lay
+the Lake of Scutari with its background of mountains.
+
+It was early in the evening when we reined in our horses before a
+modest stone house and dismounted. It was Fundina, a straggling
+village built on the sloping sides of a mountain from which it takes
+its name.
+
+Voivoda Marko, the hero of Medun, defeated the Turks on these slopes
+in the first engagement of the last war, successfully inaugurating
+the campaigning which secured to Montenegro all the territory through
+which we had been riding for so many weeks, including the towns of
+Podgorica and Niksic, and the great valley now stretched at our feet.
+
+Podgorica lies like an oasis of green trees on the rolling, but
+treeless, plain.
+
+The Albanian border is but a rifle-shot away, and the village of Dinos
+and the fortress of Tusi are plainly to be seen.
+
+We decided to spend the night here and hear Keco's story, though
+Podgorica was only three hours' distance. It would be a fitting finish
+to our mountain tour to sleep on the battlefield of Fundina, and in
+the house of a modern hero.
+
+"I warn you," remarked the doctor, "that Keco much belies his deeds by
+his appearance."
+
+Keco was not in his house when we arrived, and we had our ceremonial
+and inevitable black coffee brought to us on a small natural platform
+of rock overlooking the magnificent valley.
+
+Shortly afterwards a small and insignificant man approached us, with
+haggard looks and grey hair. He greeted the doctor effusively.
+
+"This is Keco," said Dr. S.
+
+As he took the tobacco tin which was proffered him his hands trembled
+so excessively that the rolling of a cigarette was a work of art.
+
+"His nerves are gone," explained the doctor. "He lives in hourly
+danger of his life."
+
+Keco soon left us to prepare our meal and quarters for the night, and
+it was not till after supper, when we were seated round the fire in
+his little house and smoking, that he would consent to tell his story.
+Even then he spoke at first reluctantly, but soon warmed to his
+subject. His wife was always present and looked anxious. Several men
+were in the room.
+
+"Though my hands tremble and my hair is growing white," he began, "yet
+I do not fear death. We must all die, and I know that my fate must
+speedily overtake me. This house I have built for my wife, and stocked
+with what money I had, to provide for her. They shall not kill me
+easily. Twice have they tried. The first time I was in the fields when
+men fired at me from a long distance. I took my rifle and made a
+detour, and, as my enemies recrossed the border, I was there waiting
+for them. But I did not hit one. Another time seven men hid themselves
+only thirty yards away from my house, in the evening, but they dared
+not shoot then, for my wife was by my side."
+
+"You know," explained the doctor, "the life of a woman is sacred;
+should a woman by the greatest accident shoot a man, the vendetta
+falls on her husband--she may not be touched; or, should a woman be
+killed in a vendetta, even by the merest accident, the shame would be
+unspeakable. The murderers and their families, or even their clan,
+would be blotted out, for in such revenge all would join. Keco's wife
+never leaves his side after dusk, and, you see, she has saved his life
+once already within his knowledge; who knows how often unawares?"
+
+"Tell us the origin of thy blood-guiltiness," said we. Dr. S. had told
+us the story, but we wished to hear it from his lips.
+
+"I had a cow which was my pride," went on Keco. "She yielded more milk
+than any other cow and of a far better quality. Men praised the milk
+and the cheese when I took it to the market in Podgorica for sale, and
+none more than Achmet, a Turk from Dinos.
+
+"One morning I went to milk my cow, and could find her nowhere. My
+most treasured possession was gone. I searched for her all that day
+and the next on the mountain sides, but in vain. On the next market
+day as I wandered gloomily across the market-place of Podgorica,
+Achmet, the Turk, accosted me.
+
+"'Where is thy milk?' he asked, 'which is so wonderful, and where are
+thy marvellous cheeses?'
+
+"I replied that I knew not, and would have passed on.
+
+"'Make thy mind easy,' continued Achmet, an evil smile spreading over
+his face, 'for I have thy cow.'
+
+"'Ah! she has strayed across the border,' I cried. 'Thank God she is
+found.'
+
+"'She strayed across the border,' said Achmet, 'but under my guidance.
+Thou hast not lied. Her milk is indeed of the good quality that thou
+hast boasted. For a Christian dog like thee she is far too good.'
+
+"To this hour I wonder that I did not strike him dead. My rage
+rendered me powerless to move or see. It was as if a black cloud
+descended over my eyes. When I recovered, Achmet was gone.
+
+"For many weeks I went to the Law Court whenever I visited the market,
+demanding the restitution of my cow by legal means, and each time was
+I put off by answers and promises. And Achmet was always on the
+market-place taunting me with tales of the cow and her calf. For she
+had calved. But the law is strict, and I never dared shoot him whilst
+in the town, and this the coward knew.
+
+"When I saw that I should get no help from the law, I took two men
+from this village. They are here in this room," he said, pointing to
+two men seated near us. "And one morning I went across to Dinos. I did
+not go at night, like the thief, but when the sun was highest, and
+when all could see me. I left my comrades outside Achmet's house, and
+went in alone. There I found my cow and her calf, but only the women
+were present. So I drove the cow and the calf out of the door towards
+my comrades. Then, lest any should think that I was afraid, I fired my
+rifle into the air. Very soon the men came running from the fields,
+and amongst them Achmet and his son. When they saw me and my cow, they
+came towards me firing, but being unsteady from running, the bullets
+flew wide. Then I took careful aim and shot Achmet dead, and then his
+son. We then ran quickly, and though men pursued us, they were afraid
+to come too near lest I should shoot them likewise, and so we came
+back to Fundina in safety. Since then the men of Dinos wait for me,
+and they will kill me soon, for the insult is very great that I have
+put upon them, and the fame of my deed has travelled into all lands."
+As he said this his eyes lit with fire, and the spirit of heroism
+shone out in the seemingly timid-looking man.
+
+"Must thou stay here, in Fundina?" I asked, "where thy enemies are so
+near. Why not go to Cetinje or Niksic?"
+
+"Men know me for a hero," he answered proudly. "What would they say if
+I ran away and sought safety elsewhere? I should be a double coward,
+for I should leave my brothers to inherit my fate. No, I shall wait
+here till they come, and they shall not find me unprepared or
+sleeping. See, every night I make my bed in a different place,
+sometimes in one room of the house, sometimes in the bushes outside.
+They never know where I shall sleep, for these dogs love to kill their
+enemy in the night."
+
+Silence fell upon us as Keco finished. The wood fire crackled and
+flickered, lighting up fitfully the serious faces of the men sitting
+round.
+
+Half guessing our thoughts, Keco said--
+
+"To-night no attack will be made. We shall keep guard outside."
+
+We felt abashed. We confess thoughts of a nocturnal assassination had
+not pleased us, and yet these wild mountaineers had already provided
+for such a contingency. When we went outside the house before turning
+in, Dr. S. pointed out the figure of a motionless sentinel leaning on
+his rifle some little distance away.
+
+"It is odd that the women are so respected," I remarked to the doctor,
+"when no other law seems recognised. Do they never take part in a
+vendetta?"
+
+"Never as a woman," said the doctor. "If it should happen that a woman
+is the last surviving member of a family, the rest having been killed
+in a vendetta, she may continue the feud, but as a man. She then
+assumes the clothes of the opposite sex, procures arms and cuts
+herself off from the world, living as a hermit. Do you remember that
+Albanian woman at Easter time in Podgorica who kissed me so
+fervently?"
+
+We nodded, for we had been much amused at the scene. A wild-looking,
+unkempt Albanian woman had kissed the doctor most effusively.
+
+"Though she had assumed the woman's garb for the Easter festival, she
+is to all intents and purposes a man, and hence the man's kiss of
+peace. She then asked me for a revolver which I had promised her some
+time ago."
+
+We turned in soon after, but not before we heard another story.
+
+Two cairns on the road to Plavnica, and but half an hour from
+Podgorica, had often been pointed out to us. They were erected to the
+memory of an attack made on four gendarmes in connection with a
+long-standing vendetta. A party of Albanians had hidden themselves in
+two hollows beside the main road at night and as the gendarmes passed
+they fired into them, killing one and badly wounding two others. This
+happened shortly before our arrival.
+
+Another scene had been enacted a few days ago which they now related
+to us, to prevent us perhaps thinking too much of Keco's story, and
+dreaming of it.
+
+The men of the Zeta had sworn revenge for the death of their gendarme,
+a famous man and great favourite, but at the time Prince Nicolas had
+sternly forbidden reprisals. But such things are not forgotten, and a
+man had crossed the Zem into Albania. Coming on a party of men working
+in a field, he had fired, but his aim was unsteady, and he only
+wounded his intended victim slightly. Then he fled, hotly pursued, and
+received a bad wound as he crossed an open space. Still he managed to
+elude his pursuers for the time being, and reached the River Zem. Here
+his strength failed him and he clung, half fainting from loss of
+blood, to the bushes fringing the bank, unable to go any further. In
+this position a man of the clan Hotti found him, as he was coming
+along the river. Having heard the shots and seeing a bleeding
+Montenegrin, he put two and two together and promptly shot him. The
+other Albanians, directed by the report, now came up, and literally
+hacked the corpse to pieces. So the Zeta peasants are now two deaths
+to the bad. In conclusion, we were told that the authorities have
+reason to believe that the murdered man had been accompanied by others
+on his raid into a friendly country and were seeking for these men
+most diligently to punish them severely.
+
+For their violating the border laws?
+
+No, for deserting their comrade, and leaving him to meet his death
+alone, and the sentence for this craven deed is ten years.
+
+Next morning we rode into Podgorica, and comparative civilisation,
+after a period of roughing it of the hardest description. We had often
+gone from five a.m. till seven or eight p.m. on a couple of eggs and
+an occasional glass of milk, and had hard going all the time. It
+proved to us pretty conclusively how we of civilised lands
+disgustingly and habitually overeat ourselves.
+
+We finished considerably harder and more fit than at the start, and we
+had lived the whole time as the Montenegrins of the mountains live.
+
+One remarkable gift of which these mountaineers are possessed, and
+which deserves special remark, is that of long-distance talking. Men
+can speak with each other in the higher altitudes at distances of five
+miles and more, where our ears could hardly distinguish a faint sound
+of the human voice. Children are accustomed to it at an early age, and
+the quaint sight of a mother conversing with her child guarding some
+sheep on a neighbouring hillside is often to be witnessed. This gift
+must be acquired young, it seems, for Dr. S., who has lived twelve
+years amongst the Montenegrins, could neither make himself heard, nor
+understand, though he said that he had given himself much pains to
+learn the art.
+
+As we rode into Podgorica that morning, we were struck by meeting
+several groups of the Turkish inhabitants hanging about outside the
+town. Arriving in the town, only Montenegrins were to be seen in the
+streets, walking somewhat ostentatiously up and down, their natural
+swagger greatly exaggerated. The news of the elopement of another
+Turkish maiden soon reached us, and that day at dinner, an officer,
+detailed to prove the matter, told us the story.
+
+A young Montenegrin had won the heart of the maiden, and accompanied
+by a friend, he had gone to the wall of her house and given a
+preconcerted signal. The girl had come, but a dispute now arose
+between the men as to who should ultimately marry her, and she, in
+great disgust, had told them to go away and settle the matter. It
+seems that the girl had no particular wishes as to whom she should
+marry. At last the friends arranged matters satisfactorily and the
+girl was abducted, if one can call an elopement an abduction. However,
+in the eyes of the Turks it was a forcible abduction, and the fact
+that the girl was related to the most influential Turk in the town did
+not improve matters. The Beg had demanded the restitution of the girl
+at once and punishment of the offenders. The Prince had sent officials
+to settle the dispute. The girl, however, very naturally refused to be
+given back, as she would probably have been killed, and insisted on
+her baptism and marriage taking place forthwith.
+
+As the officer said to us--
+
+"This is a free country, and we shall not give back the maiden against
+her will."
+
+This had incensed the Turks beyond measure. The town was being
+patrolled nightly, and the Beg attempted flight to mark his anger. But
+this the Prince would not allow, and the Beg was stopped by gendarmes
+as he was entering a carriage one night. Only if he first gave up his
+orders, decorations, and his sword of honour, and, furthermore, took
+his wives and belongings with him, could he leave the country.
+
+Such was the state of affairs on our return. At night we went armed,
+and really had hopes of seeing a street fight. One evening a shot was
+fired in the town, and in the twinkling of an eye men turned out rifle
+in hand. Nothing came of it, and the crowd of several hundred armed
+Montenegrins slowly dispersed. Had further shots been fired, we were
+told, the peasants from far and near would have taken up the alarm,
+and in an hour thousands would have flocked into the town. No wonder
+the Turks were chary of taking revenge into their own hands.[8]
+
+[Footnote 8: Again, since writing the above, this statement has been
+fully proved. In February, 1902, a party of Turkish soldiers, half
+starved in their frontier block-houses, attempted a raid into
+Montenegro. They were accompanied by a brother of the famous Achmet
+Uiko; whose story has been related elsewhere. In spite of the caution
+which the raiders displayed, the news reached Podgorica as soon as
+they had crossed the border and seemingly eluded the vigilance of the
+Montenegrin frontier guards. A party of Montenegrins lay in wait for
+them in Dr. S.'s summer garden (a spot where we had often spent many
+pleasant hours) and the Turks were challenged. As an answer the
+marauders fired at their unseen challengers, doing no harm, but an
+answering volley killed two of them. The rest were captured, one only
+making good his escape, and were brought into the town. But the
+volleys had alarmed the whole district, hundreds of men pouring into
+Podgorica from all the neighbouring villages and hills, till many
+thousands had assembled.
+--Cetinje, March, 1902.]
+
+But the mischief done was great. Many families emigrated, much to
+Prince Nicolas' anger, for he encourages by every means in his power
+the extension of the Turkish population. They bring trade and
+cultivate the lands far more diligently than the Montenegrin warriors.
+
+So it was that we witnessed during these few days the festival of the
+Sultan's birthday, which seemed strangely incongruous considering the
+mixed feelings of the inhabitants.
+
+In the morning, all the town officials called on the Turkish Consul.
+The militia were formed up and the whole, led by the Montenegrin War
+Banner, proceeded in solemn procession to the principal mosque. On
+their return, a royal salute was fired from a bastion of the old wall,
+and in the evening the town was illuminated.
+
+It was an extraordinary sight, and one not easily to be forgotten. All
+the houses stuck candles in every window, by order of the Prince; the
+market-place and the War Memorial were covered with lamps, but the
+most striking feature of all was the illumination on a small hill
+immediately behind the old town. This hill overlooks the town, and was
+covered by rows of lamps. In the streets Turks, Albanians, and
+Montenegrins jostled each other; at peace, at any rate, for one
+evening.
+
+A day or two later, a very different spectacle could have been
+witnessed. The main street leading to the church on the outskirts of
+the town was lined by waiting Montenegrins, and not a Turk was to be
+seen. Soon a carriage drove rapidly from the church, with a blushing
+Montenegrin girl and a gold-embroidered Montenegrin at her side. It
+was the late Turkish maiden, now a radiant Montenegrin bride and
+Christian. Several Turks had been caught endeavouring to approach the
+church with revolvers concealed, but were promptly turned back.
+
+And so ended an eventful week.
+
+One day, quite by accident, we discovered the arrest-house, or place
+where prisoners are detained pending their trial and sentence. We were
+passing a door which led down by a few steps into a courtyard, when an
+acquaintance of ours accosted us.
+
+We went inside and spoke to him for some minutes. He was a merry
+individual and a clerk in a Government office.
+
+He requested us to bring our camera and photograph him on the next
+day. Then he moved and a chain clanked. Neither of us had realised
+that this was a prison till that moment, though we had passed that
+door many times.
+
+Next day we came again, and took a picture of our genial friend, whom
+we found seated and playing the gusla to a crowd of other prisoners,
+some exceedingly heavily chained.
+
+One or two guards came up and we spent an hour in a pleasant chat.
+
+Our friend was only "in" for a few days for making a rude remark about
+the Chief of Police. The chained men were mostly murderers, if we may
+use such a harsh term for those who are compelled to kill their
+enemies by the relentless laws of the vendetta, and who would be
+punished by the laws of man should they prove themselves guilty of
+cowardice.
+
+The vendetta in Montenegro is a legal anomaly. Men are punished in
+either case.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
+costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
+coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
+hermit--A miracle--Niksic--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
+palace--We are disappointed in Niksic.
+
+
+Though we visited the famous Monastery of Ostrog at the very beginning
+of our visit to Montenegro, and Niksic at the conclusion, both places
+lie so near together that we put them now in this order for the sake
+of simplicity.
+
+It was our good fortune to be enabled to witness the annual pilgrimage
+to the shrine of S. Vasili, which takes place during the Greek
+Whitsuntide.
+
+Ostrog is the Lourdes of the Balkans, as many equally miraculous cures
+take place as at the Roman Catholic rival in the Pyrenees. The
+Serb-speaking races from far and near flock there in enormous numbers,
+as well as many Mahometans and Catholics.
+
+S. Vasili (or Basil) was a native of the Hercegovina and a holy man of
+great repute. About a century ago he had a vision telling him to
+travel to Montenegro, and there to found a monastery. Accordingly he
+set out, taking with him a great quantity of building material, and
+chose a spot not far from Podgorica, on the right bank of the Zeta.
+But in the night the material disappeared, and S. Vasili hunted high
+and low. After a weary search it was found at Ostrog, and there he
+built his place of retreat, living many years, working many miracles,
+and dying as a saint. He is buried there, and it is said that any
+believer has but to visit the shrine, and whatever his wish may be, it
+will be fulfilled. Thus cripples have walked back the way which they
+were carried, sick have been made whole, and the mentally afflicted
+have gone away rejoicing. Certain it is that many wonderful cures are
+yearly effected there.
+
+Furthermore, the name of Ostrog appears often in the glorious annals
+of Montenegrin history. The oft-told tale of Prince Nicolas' father,
+Mirko, "The Sword of Montenegro," who was besieged in that
+inaccessible cleft in a precipice with a handful of men, is one of the
+most famous feats of Montenegrin arms. The charred cliffs still bear
+silent witness to the efforts which the Turks made to burn out the
+little garrison by throwing bundles of flaming straw from above.
+
+Ostrog is about six hours' drive from Podgorica. The road passes along
+the River Zeta, leaving the village of Spuz on the right, and past the
+flourishing little town of Danilovgrad, soon to be the connecting
+town between Cetinje and Niksic on completion of the projected road.
+
+There is nothing of interest in Danilovgrad, though the market is of
+some importance. A little way beyond the town a nearly complete
+building can be noticed. It is the lunatic asylum.
+
+From this point onwards the road ascends slowly but steadily until a
+deep valley lies to the right, and the Zeta assumes quite diminutive
+proportions. The mountains opposite rise to an ever-increasing height,
+until a few tiny buildings can be made out by the help of
+field-glasses. It is Ostrog. That morning we could make out the tents
+and booths of the pilgrims, and a dark mass of surging humanity. But
+it is still a very long distance away. The road climbs up to the head
+of the valley to the village of Bogetic, full that morning of the
+carriages of the wealthy pilgrims. During the Whitsun festival
+carriages are scarcely to be procured in the whole of Montenegro, or
+in Cattaro either.
+
+We broke our fast here, and then drove for another mile or so where a
+path leaves the road, and the pilgrim has either to proceed on
+horseback or on foot. We had to go on foot, and a very long and tiring
+walk it proved to be. Besides Dr. S. and his factotum, Lazo, we took
+another man with us, a wretched puny individual, but seemingly
+possessed of more endurance than any of us. He led us by a short cut
+over rocks, and up slippery breakneck walls of cliffs, over which our
+guide skipped nimbly, and having reached the top seemingly hours
+before us, sat down and beamed benevolently.
+
+Half-way, the rain came down in sheets, and we took shelter in a
+wayside inn, or rather hut. It was crowded with returning pilgrims
+whom the threatening weather had forced to depart earlier than is
+their wont.
+
+As the weather momentarily cleared, we pushed on, and the remaining
+distance was one of the most interesting walks it had been our fortune
+to witness. A ceaseless stream of pilgrims poured down the rocky path.
+It came on to rain again, but one and all wished us luck in the name
+of God and S. Vasili. Nearly every costume of the Balkans was
+represented. The Bosnian, in sack-shaped baggy trousers, fitting the
+lower leg, either of crimson or blue cloth, a smart-coloured Turkish
+jacket, a broad shawl round his waist displaying armouries of knives
+and pistols, on his head a fez wound round with a huge turban cloth,
+mounted, or leading a pack-horse; his wife in coarse black trousers;
+the Hercegovinans, with breastplates of silver ornaments, exquisite in
+workmanship and of great antiquity; sombre Servians, and white-clad
+Albanians, whose trousers are embroidered with black braid in
+fantastic tracing; fez, head-cloth, and neat little Montenegrin cap;
+trousers of red, pink, blue and black; gigantic Albanians in high
+riding-boots, sitting their horses like Life Guardsmen; Macedonians,
+Greeks, and even pure-blooded Turks; Montenegrins in creamy white
+frock-coats worn over gold-braided crimson jackets; and dark-blue
+costumes with red worsted tassels of the poor Dalmatian peasants--all
+passed us in bewildering confusion.
+
+The women (who were for the most part Montenegrin) showed up well in
+comparison with their sisters from Sarajevo, whose attire is, to say
+the least, comical. For in the larger towns of the Austrian occupation
+territory they are undergoing the stage from East to West, and appear
+in huge Turkish trousers and cheap, gaudy European blouses. The
+contrast between the Sarajevan and the graceful Montenegrin is
+positively ludicrous. But of all the costumes, male and female, the
+palm must be given to the Montenegrin. They carry themselves with a
+princely air, and their picturesque costume is a model of good taste;
+for Montenegro is, as Mr. Gladstone has remarked, the beach on which
+was thrown up the remnants of Balkan freedom. After the battle of
+Kossovo, all the Serb nobility who would not submit to the Turk fled
+to Crnagora, and the traces of heredity are easily to be recognised in
+their superb carriage.
+
+[Illustration: MONTENEGRIN WOMEN]
+
+It was well after midday when we reached the plateau on which the
+lower and modern monastery is situated. We entered through a gate into
+a wide path bordered with booths in which crowds of joyful pilgrims
+sat refreshing themselves. In spite of the departing crowds that we
+had passed, the place was still densely packed, for over twenty
+thousand people visit Ostrog. We squeezed into one of the booths and
+sat watching the surging mass pass to and fro.
+
+The mixture of costume was even more marked than on the path below. It
+was a brilliant kaleidoscope of colour. Nothing but colour--colour.
+Very rarely could a man in European clothes (the richer Dalmatians) be
+noticed, and he seemed strangely out of place and harmony.
+
+As we sat and gazed, two Bosnian minstrels, from bad memory and an
+indifferent ear, began playing on a fiddle and a guitar, and though
+their music was atrocious, the wild Turkish songs which they sang gave
+the finishing touch to the scene. It was not till they began playing
+snatches of music-hall airs, such long-forgotten tunes as "Daisy,"
+that we hurriedly moved on.
+
+The Archbishop, Mitrofanban, heard of our arrival soon after, and
+immediately sent for us. When we approached, he was sitting on the
+steps of a house, surrounded by a brilliant staff of Montenegrin
+nobles and many priests, while below a great crowd of pilgrims stood
+in a ring, watching the national dance, which was being performed
+before His Grace. The dance stopped as we drew near. The Archbishop
+received us very kindly--this was our first meeting with him--and
+expressed his pleasure to see strangers from such a distant land in
+Ostrog. He assigned a room to us in his house, and gave orders for us
+to be fed during our stay. Murmuring our thanks, we attempted to
+withdraw, but we did not escape before we had solemnly drunk the usual
+coffee. It was rather an ordeal to consume that very hot coffee in the
+face of the multitude, and we were painfully conscious of our many
+shortcomings in personal appearance. Muddy and half-wet riding clothes
+and flannel shirts do not seem to go with crimson and gold, high boots
+of patent leather, and sparkling orders. A Horseguardsman's uniform
+would be more in keeping. When we left, the dancing resumed and was
+kept up till a late hour that night. We noticed another national dance
+at Ostrog. A much more barbaric performance than the stately and
+solemn movement of the ring dance, or kolo.
+
+In this case two performers dance at a time, a man and a woman. A
+small ring is made by the spectators, who also supply the relay
+couples. The man endeavours to spring as high as possible into the
+air, emitting short, Red Indian yells, and firing his revolver. The
+woman gives more decorous jumps; and, keeping opposite each other,
+they leap backwards and forwards across the small open space. After
+a few minutes they are unceremoniously pushed aside, after giving each
+other a hasty kiss, and another couple takes their place. This goes on
+_ad lib._, and we were soothed to sleep by those wild yells.
+
+[Illustration: THE LOWER MONASTERY, OSTROG]
+
+Next morning we were up bright and early, and about seven o'clock
+commenced the actual pilgrimage. A steep and stony path winds up
+through a dense wood for about an hour. Fanatical pilgrims make this
+journey sometimes barefoot, but the ordeal is sufficiently severe
+without these little additions. The whole way is lined with beggars,
+sometimes hardly recognisable as human beings, who must reap a rich
+harvest by the exhibition of their ghastly woes. _They_ constitute the
+ordeal.
+
+Maimed stumps of limbs, deformed children, repulsive and festering
+sores, and other diseases too foul for description were proudly
+exhibited at every step. A cap was placed invitingly in front of each,
+and partly filled with alms already given. In piteous agony diseased
+hands and quavering voices besought us in the name of God and their
+saint to alleviate their sufferings with the gift of a kreutzer. It
+was not a sight that will lightly escape the memory.
+
+We reached the top, hot and nauseated, but were fully compensated by
+the unique view. The monastery is built under an overhanging precipice
+which rises to a giddy height above. The charred rocks bear telling
+evidence to the miracles which have saved the little edifice from
+burning.
+
+We went straight to the shrine, through a little door scarcely more
+than four feet high (the wooden lintels of which being the handiwork
+of S. Vasili were piously kissed by the Montenegrins), through two
+long and narrow passages hewn from the living rock and emerged
+suddenly in a small rock chamber, dimly lit by an oil lamp and about
+twelve feet square. The five of us filled the space, and, as our eyes
+grew accustomed to the gloom, we were able to distinguish a wooden
+shrine taking up the whole length of one side--where the mortal
+remains of the Hercegovinan lay. Another side was occupied by an open
+coffin containing the vestments and crucifix. On a chair sat a Greek
+priest who rose when we entered. At the foot of the shrine lay a
+cripple.
+
+We stood for some minutes in utter silence, and then followed the lead
+of the doctor, who approached the coffin and kissed the crucifix,
+which a priest gave to us all in turn: a plate for alms lay on the
+vestments: then the woodwork of the shrine was likewise kissed, and we
+emerged again into the narrow gallery.
+
+The heat had been intense in the little chapel, and we were in that
+limp and exhausted state that one experiences in a Turkish bath.
+
+[Illustration: THE UPPER MONASTERY]
+
+The gallery was open on one side where a large bell was fixed, and
+this our puny guide struck four times vigorously in the sign of a
+cross without a word of warning.
+
+After the impressive solemnity and silence of the preceding minutes,
+we nearly jumped out of our skins, and when our injured hearing had
+sufficiently recovered so that we could distinguish the sound of our
+own voices, we demanded an explanation of this apparently childish and
+wanton outrage.
+
+He said that he had struck the bell for the renewal of his strength.
+It appeared an unnecessary request.
+
+Dr. S. explained that pilgrims strike the bell on emerging from the
+shrine, praying for some special benefit.
+
+We next went up a lot of steps to a platform under the shelving cliff
+where there was a beautiful spring of water. The view which it
+commanded was magnificent. Below us lay the lower monastery and the
+deep valley of the Zeta, the mountains rising again sharply on the
+further side; to the right and left stretched wooded slopes.
+
+Then we descended again and paid the priest a visit. This man, over
+eighty years of age, has spent forty years of his life as a hermit in
+that rocky crag. With the exception of Whitsuntide and the occasional
+visits of pilgrims, he lives entirely alone, subsisting on vegetables.
+His appearance was most patriarchal, his snowy white beard and
+saintly look impressing us greatly. When he heard that we were from
+England, he embraced and kissed us repeatedly, much to our
+embarrassment. His joy knew no bounds, and he kept us with him in his
+rock-hewn cell for a considerable time. He even consented to be
+photographed, for the first time in his life, facing the ordeal with
+unflinching courage.
+
+The descent to the lower monastery was made in record time, and with
+half-closed eyes. We found the Archbishop standing in the shade of an
+enormous tree surrounded by a large ring of Montenegrins. He beckoned
+to us, asking us for our impressions, and needless to say we solemnly
+drank coffee. This beverage began to pall before we left Montenegro.
+
+After partaking of a splendid meal (for the country), washed down with
+wine such as is not to be obtained elsewhere in the land, we paid a
+farewell visit to His Grace and departed.
+
+Already the booths were fast disappearing and a mere handful of
+peasants remained. Many pilgrims journey from seven to eight days on
+foot or on horseback to Ostrog, over mountain passes and barren
+regions; so that the pilgrimage is very real.
+
+Before we leave Ostrog, we will mention one of the miracles which we
+had the opportunity of authenticating.
+
+A wretched Turk living to-day in Podgorica, a cripple crawling
+painfully on hands and knees, once made the pilgrimage to Ostrog.
+Friends carried him to the shrine, where he lay all night. Then he
+rose up and walked back to Podgorica rejoicing, with those who had
+carried him the day before. As he crossed the Vizier bridge, he
+sceptically remarked that he would have been healed without undergoing
+the farce of the pilgrimage. Straightway he fell to the ground, the
+same helpless cripple that he was before.
+
+The Turk and the witnesses still live--in fact it happened but a few
+years ago--to tell the tale.
+
+The road to Niksic, which we left to proceed to Ostrog, climbs to the
+height of 750 metres in crossing the mountain ridge dividing the
+valley of the Zeta from that of Niksic. The scenery is throughout fine
+and wild. In a succession of serpentines, the road descends sharply on
+to the great plain, the fertile valley of Niksic.
+
+The town can be seen immediately on leaving the mountainous gorge, the
+cupola of the cathedral standing up boldly from the surrounding flat.
+
+A long viaduct is crossed, built by the Russians, at the foot of the
+mountain, for in the winter floods are common, and Niksic was at times
+nearly cut off from the rest of Montenegro.
+
+Niksic is probably the coming capital of Montenegro. In fact, it has
+been but a question of money that has prevented the removal of the
+Government from Cetinje a long time ago.
+
+The Prince has recently built himself a large palace, the Russians
+have erected a large church, and roads are now in the course of
+construction connecting it with Risano on the Bocche di Cattaro, and
+Cetinje, and again with the Cattaro-Cetinje road.
+
+When these roads are completed, Niksic will have a most central
+position, and the unquestionably rich and fertile plain can be opened
+up. Without doubt it is the coming trading centre, and already it is
+running Podgorica very close.
+
+The day after our arrival--we had arrived in the night--we saw the
+town under most unfavourable conditions. A violent thunderstorm had
+raged incessantly for many hours, and the streets were in parts
+inundated. Water was pouring in miniature waterfalls from the ground
+floors of many houses which possessed a higher background. Braving the
+elements, and often making detours to avoid the lakes, we walked to
+the palace and the church. Both lie together outside the town.
+
+A flight of steps lead up an artificial mound, over-shadowing the
+somewhat barrack-like palace, where stands the new cathedral. It is
+the most striking edifice in the whole country, surmounted with a
+dingy light yellow cupola. It is not pretty or tasteful, but it is
+distinctly imposing, and one can well realise the marvellings that
+it has given the simple Montenegrins. Inside it is severely plain and
+void of any furniture, except the thrones for the Royal Family. Round
+the walls are lists of the men who have fallen in recent wars.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH, NIKSIC]
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH AND PALACE]
+
+The platform on which the church stands commands a view of the
+country. The simplicity of Prince Nicolas' palace is thus accentuated,
+for it is situated on perfectly open ground, and there is no garden or
+any railings round it. Naked and forlorn, it gives the spectator a sad
+impression of poverty. On another side is the old Church of Niksic,
+ridiculously small and half-ruined. The Russians did a good deed, for
+the comparison is absolutely absurd if a comparison can be drawn
+between a hovel and a S. Peter's.
+
+The town is a long straggling collection of small houses, very
+uninteresting and plain, and beyond lies the historical ruin of the
+old fortress, stormed by Prince Nicolas in person.
+
+In the town itself, broad streets and an enormous market-place are the
+only features.
+
+We spent a few days in Niksic, but in this instance we were never able
+to rid ourselves of the first impressions, and we left gladly, though
+the town was not without its humour. It contains the only brewery in
+Montenegro, a ramshackle place and producing very poor beer. The post
+office is a tumble-down outhouse, also we were shown the house which
+would in the course of time be the Bank of Montenegro.
+
+It is hard to realise that Niksic is the coming town, in spite of its
+gaudy cathedral, but progress makes sometimes wonderful strides.
+
+Our visit to Niksic was a failure all round. We arrived to see the
+Prince ride out of the town at the head of a great cavalcade for the
+mountains, and again missed the opportunity of presenting ourselves.
+
+Our intended tour to the Durmitor, Montenegro's highest mountain, was
+frustrated, owing to the Prince's retinue having taken every horse in
+the place, in addition to the weather having completely broken up, and
+so we missed one of the finest parts of the country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
+of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
+subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
+of infancy--A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
+a memorable drive--A fervent prayer.
+
+
+Before we leave Podgorica for good our readers must be introduced to
+the Club. It was not a club in the English sense of the word, but P.
+and I always called that hour or two at sunset so delightfully spent
+in the company of that cosmopolitan gathering, the Club. Podgorica was
+our base, from which we made all our trips and excursions, so that we
+were there off and on during the whole of our lengthy sojourn amongst
+the sons of the Black Mountain. From the "members" we gleaned many
+stories of past and present vendettas and quaint customs which we had
+not had the good fortune to witness ourselves. Amongst the regular
+members was of course Dr. S., who was three nationalities rolled into
+one--to explain, born in Roumania, he entered into Austrian service
+and became an Austrian subject, and finally twelve years in Montenegro
+had quite "Montenegrinised" him. He was very angry if we told him
+this. In the course of his duties as sole veterinary surgeon he had
+travelled, and travelled continually from one end of the land to the
+other, there was not a corner or collection of huts where he had not
+been. He had been snowed up in winter in the mountains, attacked by
+wolves, and shot at by Albanians, and had witnessed many a scene of
+the vendetta.
+
+Another even more interesting character was L., an Austrian, who for
+years had been employed by scientific institutions in ornithological
+and geological research in Montenegro and Albania. He had carried his
+life in his hands for weeks together amongst the untameable
+mountaineers across the border. A man whose terribly hard life had
+turned him into a man of bone and muscle, rivalling the most active
+Montenegrin in strength and endurance. And what a fund of anecdote and
+adventure he could reel off! Without doubt he was one of the most
+interesting and fascinating men we have ever met; a perfect rifle,
+gun, and revolver shot, fine horseman and entertaining companion.
+
+Then there was a Montenegrin professor, he was the father of the
+party, though the tales _he_ told were not at all becoming to his age
+and learning. He spoke about eight languages well and perhaps that had
+slightly turned his brain. Once he had served a term of imprisonment
+for an outspoken criticism, and when he became tired of it, he sent
+an ultimatum to the effect that if he were not released at once, he
+would break out himself, take a rifle and bundle of cartridges and
+hold the Lovcen (a high mountain) against all comers. The originality
+of his threat gained him his freedom. Since then he has kept a closer
+guard over that unruly member and only unburdened himself in the
+seclusion of the Club. Otherwise P., myself, and a young and intensely
+patriotic Scotchman completed the list of regular members.
+
+We had a few occasional "country members," officers and officials whom
+some of us knew well from Cetinje or Niksic, but we were mostly alone.
+At first we met in the garden of one Petri, a good-tempered giant of
+about six feet eight inches, but in spite of our patronage he managed
+to ruin himself at cards and so we were forced to adjourn to an old
+Albanian rascal named Gugga. What fun we had with that dear old boy,
+whom we irreverently called Skenderbeg! One day in a moment of
+ill-advised confidence he had told us that he was descended from that
+great Albanian hero and patriot. But he was an educated and travelled
+man, having lived for many years in Venice, spoke an excellent Italian
+and correspondingly atrocious German, which latter he delighted to
+inflict upon us. He was most amusing in his hatred and contempt of the
+Montenegrin peasant.
+
+Gugga kept a big shop, and when irritated by a customer he had a
+regular formula which loses much of its wit when translated, as it
+rhymes in Serb. The humble Montenegrin is remarkably feminine in the
+way he shops. He will spend half an hour in the store examining
+everything with great curiosity. At last he will ask the price of a
+certain article. Gugga, whose choler has been slowly rising during his
+customer's long and tiring inspection, gives a purposely indistinct
+answer, whereupon the Montenegrin will inquire "What does he say?"
+Gugga, furious at being spoken to in the third person, turns savagely
+upon the astonished Montenegrin saying--
+
+"What dost thou say? What dost thou mean?
+ What stinks here? Get out, ass and son of an ass."
+
+Another famous saying of his was in speaking of Montenegro, its past
+and present rulers. "This land," Gugga would say in all seriousness,
+"was first accursed by God, its maker; then by Diocletian, then by the
+Sultan, then by our Gospodar (Prince), and lastly by Gospodin
+Milovan." Gospodin (Mr.) Milovan was the last Governor of Podgorica, a
+man always endeavouring to introduce modern improvements into the
+town, much to the disgust of its inhabitants who are nothing if not
+conservative, and amongst other sufferers was our friend Gugga. He
+substitutes the word "blessed" for "accursed," according to his
+audience.
+
+We met after the arrival of the mail diligence from Cetinje about
+half-past six or seven o'clock in the evening. Proceedings usually
+commenced with a heated argument as to the time, the last comer being
+accused of unpunctuality. It was always an unsatisfactory argument,
+for no member ever had the same time as another. A sort of
+go-as-you-please time was kept in the town, but as either your watch
+invariably gained ten minutes in the day--according to the town clock
+it did--or lost a quarter of an hour, no one had any confidence in the
+official time, and each swore to the regularity of his own timepiece.
+One great advantage of this discrepancy of time was that try as one
+would, one was never late for an appointment. Somebody was sure to be
+present to back up an indignant protest, that you were five minutes
+early.
+
+One evening was particularly memorable, it was in Petri's garden,
+then, that we had met as usual. P. was in a pensive and sentimental
+mood, usually caused by the magnificent sunsets. From our table we
+commanded a splendid view of those crimson-tinted peaks in the far
+distance, and the mysterious purple gloom which, like a rich robe,
+covered the intervening hills. By some strange coincidence the subject
+of music came up, and P. bitterly lamented the absence of that gentle
+muse from such grand surroundings. I don't believe there is a piano in
+the country except at the girls' school at Cetinje. The Scotchman had
+suggested the gusla as a substitute, and had been met with derisive
+laughter, for he had made the suggestion in all good faith. He was one
+of the most unmusical men I have ever met. The professor had followed
+this up with a learned discourse on the gusla, and the lesson to be
+learnt from it in the origin and development of modern music, when
+suddenly the sounds of a violin, being tuned in the room behind us,
+arrested his flow of speech. In another few moments the unseen
+musician began to play, and a deep silence fell upon us, for he was
+playing our music and recalling memories of bygone days. Snatches from
+Italian opera, and old well-known songs followed each other as we sat
+in the twilight and listened, conjuring up pictures of opera-house and
+concert-hall in this far-away land. Then the music ceased, and the
+tinkling of coins on a plate proclaimed the status of our serenader.
+In a few minutes a ragged, fair-haired boy stood before us, wearily
+holding a plate in his hand. As we dived into our pockets the doctor
+asked him in Serb, who he was and whence he came. He gazed blankly in
+answer, and P. said to me, "He looks quite English." A joyful smile
+lit up his tired face as he answered--
+
+"I am English, sir. I will fetch father; he will be so pleased."
+
+His father came out, a battered violin under his arm, and we were all
+struck with his miserable half-starved and ragged appearance. He
+played to us, he did not even play well, poor fellow, but still we
+listened appreciatively, and then some of us took him home, fed him,
+and we all contributed to his wardrobe. We were all of different sizes
+and build, and the result was sadly comical. Before he left us he told
+his story. It was not new or even interesting, but intensely pathetic;
+one of a large family, fair education, and finally a clerk at L80 a
+year. A pretty typewriter, marriage, and no help from his father.
+First the girl wife was dismissed, and then the boy husband. The child
+was born, and the mother died from lack of proper nourishment and
+comfort. For a few years the father earned a few coppers by playing
+before public-houses in the East End, and then took to the road.
+Somehow or other he found himself on the Continent, and after many
+years he had turned up here. It was all very vague and incoherent.
+Often starving, homeless, and speaking no language but his own, is it
+to be wondered that the man had lost count of days, years, and time?
+Now he had a desire to journey to Greece, why, he knew not, but he
+clung to it with all a weak man's obstinacy. We could never let him
+trudge through Albania, and so the Scotchman procured him a free
+passage to Corfu by steamer. He left us one morning, leading his son
+by the hand, and over his shoulder a sack containing his worldly
+possessions, a sorrowful, ludicrous, and pitiful picture.
+
+Many weeks afterwards--P. and I had been on an expedition in the
+meantime--we sat again in Petri's garden at just such a sunset. We
+remembered the musician, and one of us jokingly remarked that his
+music would not be so appreciated in Greece as by us music-starved
+exiles. Then the Austrian told us the sequel. He had heard it from a
+murderous Albanian friend of his, who sometimes brought him specimens.
+The wanderer had not used his ticket, and had walked from Antivari to
+Dulcigno, from thence he had attempted his original plan of crossing
+Albania on foot. He knew nothing of geography or nationality, and
+doubtless imagined that he could earn his way as in a civilised
+country. On the way to Scutari a band of Albanians stopped him, and he
+played to them. The instrument pleased them, and they took it from
+him. Then they took the boy--though why they did so is not clear, for
+they do not kidnap children--and the father, in a fit of wild despair,
+sprang at the nearest Albanian. The Albanians are always glad of an
+excuse to kill; the wanderer found his death in perhaps the only
+moment of heroism that he had displayed throughout his wretched life.
+Such, though, was the story our informant had gleaned, and it took the
+edge off our evening's amusement.
+
+But other evenings we were merry, and many were the wonderful stories
+of adventure told over bottled beer and an extraordinary salad which
+old Gugga mixed before us--to make an appetite, as he said.
+
+We got to love Podgorica in the end, and left its streets, full of
+gaudy-coloured humanity, the old shot-riddled town across the river,
+and the glorious mountain panorama, with sorrow. There was always
+something to talk about, from a threatened raid of the Albanians to
+the abduction of a Turkish maiden. Death is always very near in that
+unknown border town.
+
+The day of our final departure from Podgorica, we drove to the famous
+Crna Zemlja, or Black Earth.
+
+The object of our visit was chiefly to call on a young Albanian, who
+had repeatedly invited us. Though an Albanian, he is a Montenegrin
+subject and a corporal in the standing army.
+
+As a matter of fact, he is a fugitive from his clan, the Klementi,
+where his life is forfeited in a blood feud. The Prince wisely uses
+such men as a kind of extra border guard, giving them land and houses
+on the actual frontier line, knowing that they will keep a doubly
+sharp watch to preserve their own lives.
+
+The Black Earth is an absolutely flat and treeless plain, covered at
+times with grass, which mischievous Albanians love to set fire to in
+the hopes of some sport with peasants, who might attempt to
+extinguish the conflagration. The River Zem divides it and constitutes
+the boundary, but the land on both sides is neutral by mutual consent.
+It is courting death to walk upon it. Block-houses dot it at frequent
+intervals, containing small garrisons of Montenegrin and Turkish
+soldiers.
+
+As we drove past the first Montenegrin block-house, we were reminded
+of a ride which we once took to it, while our knowledge of the border
+dangers was nil. On that occasion we had cantered, innocently,
+straight towards it, and were amused to see its little garrison
+promptly turn out. A man came running towards us motioning us to halt.
+This unmistakable request we suddenly obeyed, for the men behind had
+covered us with their rifles.
+
+Explanations followed, and the rest of the men came up smiling; but
+they sent us back towards Podgorica at once, which was only half an
+hour's ride away--saying that a bullet from the overlooking hill would
+be no unusual thing.
+
+To-day we left this block-house on our left, and, striking the Zem, we
+drove along it till we reached a solitary house. A few hundred yards
+further down was a Turkish fort, with the banner of the Star and
+Crescent hanging lazily at the mast.
+
+This house was the home of our friend, quite a young man of sixteen,
+but married and a proud father. He could well have been mistaken for
+twenty-five.
+
+He was working in his field as we drew near, and hurried to meet us.
+First of all we went to the Zem, which fifty yards away would be
+unnoticed, as it lies between two deep banks, which break off suddenly
+and without any indication. This historical little river looked very
+peaceful as it flowed through deep basins, hollowed out of the rocky
+bed, and splashed over great boulders. How often has it been crossed
+by bands of men intent on bloodshed and murder, who often recrossed,
+flying and hunted fugitives! What quantities of blood have dyed those
+clear and crystal pools! What awful doings of death have they
+reflected!
+
+The Turkish soldiers opposite turned out, and viewed our movements
+inquisitively. Our Albanian friend hinted that a too lengthy
+inspection might be misunderstood, so we withdrew.
+
+The house was a curiosity. One-storied, and solidly built of stone; it
+had no windows, but suggestive loopholes. The ground floor was empty.
+We looked inside for the staircase, but in vain, and this was scarcely
+odd, because there was none. The family lives above, and the only
+means of entry to their dwelling is by a ladder. This is drawn up
+after the last man, for the night.
+
+As we clambered up the ladder and crawled through the narrow doorway,
+the young mother (of fifteen) kissed our hands.
+
+An aged lady, evidently the great-grandmother of one of the young
+couple--at least, to judge by her decrepit appearance, she might well
+have been that (in reality she was the boy's mother)--sat spinning in
+a corner. A weeping and noisy infant lay strapped immovably in a
+wooden cradle with no rockers, which a young maiden attempted to
+soothe by covering it with a thick cloth and rocking it vigorously.
+
+That Montenegrins survive the ordeal of infancy is a proof of their
+iron constitutions. An ordinary healthy English baby would be
+suffocated in five minutes under that hermetic pall, or, escaping this
+fate, would die of concussion of the brain from violent jarring to and
+fro, which we have inadvertently termed "rocking."
+
+A wood fire smouldered in one corner of the room, and the embers were
+blown into flames as the little can of water was placed in them to
+boil. As the water boils, several spoonfuls of coffee are put in--of
+the _good_ coffee, only used for distinguished visitors--and the whole
+allowed to boil up three or four times. Then cups are produced, sugar
+added, and the thick mixture poured out. This beverage is drunk when
+it is cool enough, and when the grounds have sunk in a thick sediment
+at the bottom of the cup.
+
+[Illustration: A REALISTIC PERFORMANCE]
+
+[Illustration: AN ALBANIAN HOME ON THE CRNA ZEMLJA]
+
+The room, our treatment, and the coffee-brewing are typical of many
+such visits that we paid in Montenegro.
+
+Afterwards spirits were produced, tobacco tins exchanged, and
+arms--rifles, revolvers, and handjars--inspected and criticised. Any
+relics or curiosities are produced, and everyone becomes very
+friendly.
+
+Before we left, an old man (some relation of our host) came up as we
+were examining a fine handjar, that heavy and hiltless sword which
+forms part of both the Albanian and Montenegrin fighting kit, though
+they are no longer universally carried in times of peace. The handy
+revolver has replaced the former beltful of pistols and yataghan. But
+in border fighting the handjar is always taken, and, when time
+permits, the victim is still decapitated by a single blow of that
+murderous weapon.
+
+The old man--a villainous-looking rascal, with shaven head and
+scalping lock--favoured us with a graphic mimicry of a fight, showing
+the methods in his day. He took the handjar between his teeth and a
+musket in his hands, yelling and scowling fearfully; then, the last
+cartridge fired or the moment for hand-to-hand combat arrived, the
+rifle was thrown away, and brandishing the handjar in the air, he
+darted towards us. It was a most realistic performance, and made us
+feel thankful that it was only play.
+
+Suddenly the old man stopped his wild yelling and burst out laughing.
+He laughed till the tears ran down his cheeks.
+
+We glanced behind us at the loophole door, and there, with a horrified
+look, peered our driver, revolver in hand.
+
+He thought that we were being murdered. He was a foreigner and new to
+Podgorica, but more of him anon.
+
+Then we took our leave and drove on to another block-house, and
+visited the commandant. After that we returned to Podgorica, and that
+afternoon, affectionate leave-takings over, we departed for Cetinje,
+en route for Cattaro.
+
+That drive, which should have taken about seven hours, was a memorable
+one, and a fitting conclusion to our visit.
+
+We wired to the hotel in Cetinje in the morning, ordering supper to be
+ready for eight o'clock. Then we had hoped to leave at one p.m. At two
+we again wired from Podgorica for supper to be delayed till ten.
+
+A hundred yards from the town we stopped, and the driver mended some
+harness with a piece of wire. A mile further on something else broke.
+If nothing gave way, a horse kicked a leg over a trace, necessitating
+its partial unharnessing. Each time the driver (he of the morning's
+drive and a native of Hercegovina) descended, swearing softly between
+clenched teeth, in caressing tones, and his face set in a forced
+smile. If we had not understood what he said, he might have been
+addressing endearing remarks to his horse, or holding serious converse
+with a friend.
+
+It became very monotonous after a few hours--should we go for three
+hundred yards without a stop of five or ten minutes, it was a matter
+for comment. We began to feel alarmed, fearing worse things.
+
+Rijeka we reached at eight p.m. instead of five, and we sent another
+wire, stating our arrival to be uncertain, if not improbable.
+
+We seriously contemplated staying the night, but an appointment next
+morning forced us to give up this idea.
+
+After an hour's rest we proceeded. The same weary repetition was
+resumed, either the near side horse lashed out violently and remained
+hung over a trace, or the axle boom or something broke.
+
+We dozed, and I awoke from a sudden jar to find the driver sound
+asleep, the horses wandering aimlessly along, a precipice of many
+hundred feet below us on one side. The road takes sharp turns every
+hundred yards, rendering it impossible to see far ahead, and traffic
+even at night is not uncommon. Drivers shout when nearing a corner,
+particularly on coming downhill, which they do at a great pace. I
+shuddered at the thought of a carriage dashing suddenly round a
+corner upon us as we painfully climbed, for our driver slept soundly.
+I even shouted in his ear, but in vain. Then I struck him, and with
+effect. Inured as we were already by the dangers of that drive, we
+slept no more.
+
+I looked at my watch; it was one o'clock. In another hour the look-out
+hut of Bella Vista loomed up indistinctly, and we thought of that
+grand view of the Lake of Scutari and the mountain panorama to be seen
+from there.
+
+We stopped all the way down into Cetinje, at intervals, and had a long
+wait actually in the town itself while the driver hunted up a friend
+and borrowed a spanner.
+
+At three a.m. we arrived, and refused the offer of our driver to take
+us down to Cattaro next day. He assured us that everything would be in
+order by the afternoon. But we declined, even though he made us a
+cheap offer, below the ordinary price. We had no more confidence in
+him or his carriage, or his wonderful kicking horse--in fact, we gave
+quite a curt and rude refusal, when he pressed the matter.
+
+Safe inside the old-fashioned hostelry of Reinwein, we thanked
+Providence for our safe arrival. We had been through a few dangerous
+experiences during our sojourn in the Land of the Black Mountain, but
+none worse than this.
+
+The carriage was small, and we suffered agonies from cramp; every
+moment we expected to see it fall to pieces; one of the horses lashed
+out violently, narrowly missing the face of the driver, if only
+touched with the whip, every time hitching itself over a trace and
+threatening to kick the decrepit structure behind it to bits; the
+devilish anger of the man, his lurid and comprehensive cursing in that
+soft voice, the danger of dashing over a precipice, constituted a
+journey which we fervently pray may never again fall to our lot.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
+consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
+appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital.
+
+
+We have said that there are not many stirring events happening in
+Cetinje. But this was due to the fact that we had only a very
+superficial knowledge of the town. To appreciate it fully, though, it
+is absolutely necessary to know the country and the people first. We
+had quite made up our minds to go down to Cattaro the day following
+the memorable drive from Podgorica, but a mutual acquaintance, a
+Montenegrin of high standing, met us as we strolled aimlessly down the
+main street that morning. When he heard that we were leaving in a few
+hours, he became quite excited. Had we really seen everything, in
+Cetinje too?
+
+"Yes," said we. "We have visited the monastery, watched the soldiers
+drilling, chatted with the criminals, and know every burgher of the
+town, at least by sight."
+
+"First you must see the hospital and then you must attend a trial in
+the Supreme Court of Appeal," said our seducer. "And as for
+vendettas," he added with pride, "we too have our little quarrels. On
+the spot you are standing a man was shot five years ago, and in the
+act of dying he killed his assailant."
+
+"Tell us the story," we broke in eagerly. Montenegro is demoralising
+in this respect. One becomes so used to bloodthirsty anecdotes that
+one wonders how other countries exist without the excitement of the
+vendetta. Then the intercourse with noted murderers and assassins
+makes a mere ordinary man whose hands are not stained with the blood
+of his fellow-beings seem dull and tame. Our eagerness pleased our
+friend and we adjourned to the cafe opposite.
+
+About five years ago a near relation of the Prince died, and was taken
+to the home of Petrovic in Njegusi. To do honour to the dead man, the
+men of Cetinje and the men of Bajice--a village at the further end of
+the valley--accompanied the corpse as a guard of honour.
+
+Now a corpse is waked in true Irish style in this country, and by the
+time the escort had returned to the valley of Cetinje and halted at
+Bajice for a parting glass, the condition of the mourners resembled
+the close of a Bank Holiday in London. The too liberal indulgence in
+raki or spirits does not always provoke that mellowness which follows
+a good dinner and a glass of port. On the contrary, you become
+argumentative and convinced of the truth of your side of the question,
+and you do not hesitate to tell the other man that he is more or less
+of a fool. So it came to pass in Bajice that those of Cetinje argued
+that they were the better men, a statement which did not conduce to
+good fellowship--in fact, a Voivoda who was present, a native of
+Bajice, had to interfere to prevent the only true solution of the
+question in point. He was an aged man, and the men of Cetinje
+proceeded home without proving their statement. One man, however,
+stayed behind to continue the argument, and this naturally enraged the
+Voivoda. He ordered him to be beaten. Nothing loath, the worthy
+villagers fell upon him, and belaboured him with such fervour that he
+soon fell insensible to the ground. Before he lost consciousness, he
+was heard to utter a threat to the effect that his assailants would be
+sorry for it.
+
+Then he was carried to the hospital in Cetinje and lay six weeks
+recovering.
+
+When he was well again, his thoughts were occupied with revenge, and
+in this scheme he was greatly assisted by his relations.
+
+"Thou wilt be killed, of course," they said, "but thine and our honour
+must be avenged. Who are the men of Bajice to beat one of us and go
+unpunished?"
+
+He was of the same opinion, and cast about for a suitable victim. Now
+the son of the aged Voivoda who had ordered the assault lived in
+Cetinje. He was the captain of the Royal Body Guard, the hero of many
+a fight with the Turks, and famed throughout the land. We knew his
+son, who stands about six feet four inches, and he is said to have
+been small compared to what his father was.
+
+"He shall be the victim," said the man of Cetinje, and his relations
+applauded the choice.
+
+One morning early the captain emerged from a shop, and from a distance
+of a few feet, the avenger of his honour fired at him from behind,
+hitting him in the neck. The captain fell forward on his face, saying,
+"Who has shot me?" and turning saw the assassin running up the street.
+With his last strength he drew his revolver, and resting his elbow on
+the ground, he fired once; the man reeled but continued his headlong
+flight: again the wounded officer fired, and as he sank forward dying,
+he had the satisfaction of seeing the fugitive throw up his hands and
+fall dead, shot through the heart. The last shot was fired at a
+distance of fifty yards.
+
+"As you can imagine," concluded our informant, "the news of this
+affray nearly caused a pitched battle between Bajice and Cetinje,
+which was only prevented by the energetic action of the Prince. He
+called the two clans together before his palace and with marvellous
+judgment picked out the ring-leaders and imprisoned them, and the rest
+were sent home with such a warning of what would come if he heard any
+more about it, that all interest was lost in the dispute. Men do not
+like to face our Prince when he is angered, and his constant presence
+in Cetinje is a great drawback to the vendetta. Now I must leave you,
+and to-morrow you shall visit the hospital."
+
+We strolled to the market-place, which was full of peasants and their
+produce. It is not nearly such a scene of life as is met with
+elsewhere. The Albanian element is almost totally absent, and that
+alone takes fifty per cent. of the wildness off. Neither are rifles
+brought to Cetinje, so that it presents a far more peaceable aspect.
+Still it is crowded, the guslars do a literally roaring trade, and
+there are always a sprinkling of men from the Vasovic and other
+outlying clans to liven up the scene.
+
+Here old friends and comrades in arms meet, called to the capital as
+witnesses, or principals, in a law case, or to draw their salaries as
+small officials of their districts. The conversation on these
+occasions is always the same, and if heard often, becomes monotonous.
+The unvarying formula of greeting is quaint and terse, but it loses
+much of its impressive character by translation. One word in
+explanation. The Montenegrins cannot utter the simplest remark
+without invoking the Almighty in some form or another. The use of the
+word "Bog," or "God," is incessant.
+
+Picture an aged man, whose grey stubble fringes a weather-beaten and
+furrowed face with a grizzled moustache. He is smoking a grimy
+tchibouque in a contemplative fashion, as he stands on the outskirts
+of the chattering throng. To him approaches a second stalwart, lean
+man about the same age and appearance. He is also smoking a long
+tchibouque; it is a custom which the elder inhabitants have adopted
+from the Turks.
+
+"May God protect thee," says the new-comer gravely, as though he had
+never given vent to such a momentous utterance before.
+
+"May God give thee good fortune," answers the other, with equal
+solemnity; and removing their pipes, they clasp hands and fervently
+kiss each other. Then the smoking is resumed, and between the puffs
+the following conversation ensues.
+
+"How art thou?" says the new-comer, gazing with affection at his old
+comrade.
+
+"Well, thank God," replies the other.
+
+"Thank God."
+
+"And how art thou?"
+
+"Well, thank God."
+
+"Thank God."
+
+Now it is the new-comer's turn for the Montenegrin catechism.
+
+The questions already asked and answered are only the prelude, so to
+speak, before they settle down to serious business. "Kako ste?" ("How
+art thou?") is simply as meaningless as "How do you do"; in fact, a
+mere matter of form.
+
+"Art thou well?" says the questioner, referring to the other's state
+of health, who replies--
+
+"I am well, by God, thank God."
+
+"Thank God," says the questioner, breathing more freely, and
+continuing.
+
+"How is thy wife?" "How are thy children?" "Thy grandchildren?" "Thy
+brother?" "Thy sister?" To all of which a deep-toned "Well, thank
+God," is given.
+
+Having satisfied himself that the whole family is in reasonable
+health, and quite certain that he has omitted no important relation,
+the catechiser proceeds to inquire as to the other's worldly
+possessions.
+
+"How are thy crops?"
+
+"God will give me a good harvest."
+
+"How are thy horses?" "Thy sheep?" "Thy goats?" "Thy cows?" "Thy
+pigs?" "Thy bees?"
+
+It must be clearly understood, to appreciate the humour of the scene,
+that the formula has been shortened to avoid vain repetition. Every
+question is asked in full, and answered with a pious "Dobro, hfala
+Bogu" ("Well, thank God"). Not a word is omitted. The concluding
+question is put, after a few moments' thought that really no item has
+been left out, and this covers any lapse of memory.
+
+"And, in short, How art thou?"
+
+"Dobro, hfala Bogu" ("Well, thank God").
+
+"Hfala Bogu" ("Thank God").
+
+Now it is the other's turn, and precisely the same questions are
+asked, varied perhaps with an inquiry as to the state of health of the
+district "standard bearer" or "mayor." Then a few minutes' general
+conversation are indulged in as to the direct cause of the other's
+visit to Cetinje, and each satisfied that he has gained every particle
+of information, they clasp hands, kiss, and part with a measured
+"S'Bogom," signifying that they commend each other to the Almighty's
+keeping.
+
+The simplest and most inoffensive query is answered thus:--
+
+"Hast thou any milk?" says the thirsty wayfarer, pausing at a hut.
+
+"I have none, by God," and the stranger proceeds wearily on his way.
+
+Our visit to the hospital was decidedly interesting. The senior doctor
+of Montenegro was an ex-Austrian military surgeon. He was very
+pressing in his invitation, so one day we wended our steps thither at
+eleven o'clock. We were met by a smart-looking nurse, who told us that
+the doctor was at present engaged in an operation, and would be with
+us shortly. He soon appeared, and, apologising for the simplicity of
+the building, started taking us round. First he led us into the
+accident-room, where the injured are first treated. There were the
+usual operating-tables and cases of instruments. "We treat wounds that
+are suppurating here," he said pleasantly. "Our real operating-room is
+in the other house, and is much better fitted up. This being the only
+hospital in the country I have all the operations to perform,
+generally one a day."
+
+Then we went into the Roentgen room. The X rays, the doctor informed
+us, was very useful in locating bullets. In the men's ward a young man
+was pointed out to us who had been shot twice during a kolo dance in
+the arm and leg.
+
+"The Montenegrins," said the doctor, "are very careless when they fire
+their revolvers during a dance, and I get a good many patients that
+way." Afterwards we visited some other wards, and we were finally
+taken to the other operating-room, or theatre. But it was only a
+reproduction of the other on a large scale. "The Prince is very
+generous," said the doctor, "and gives me a free hand. We have every
+modern appliance, and I have trained my assistants to such an extent
+that I can absolutely rely on them. The hospital costs a lot of money,
+for we only charge a krone (about a franc) a day, and then they
+petition that they cannot pay."
+
+After inscribing our names in a book we went back to our midday meal.
+
+The hospital, from a medical and surgical standpoint, is extremely up
+to date, and at its head is a doctor who may be counted as one of the
+finest operators in Europe; at his own request his name has not been
+mentioned. It is another instance of Prince Nicolas' benevolence to
+his people, another of the progressive movements which he is ever
+introducing into the country. Every district has a doctor, all of whom
+are under the head doctor at Cetinje, who directs all treatment in the
+case of an epidemic. Serious cases are sent to Cetinje and treated
+there, but these are largely surgical. The fame of the doctor at
+Cetinje has reached the furthermost village; men who have suffered for
+years now troop joyfully to the capital, and the number of operations
+increases yearly.
+
+May the hospital and its capable chief flourish and continue to bring
+the blessings of science to the worthy sons of the Black Mountain!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical
+lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of
+tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and
+apostrophe.
+
+
+The Law Court in Cetinje is distinctly quaint. All civil cases are
+conducted in public, and the method of procedure is simplicity
+itself.[9] Firstly there are no lawyers and no costs, the rival
+parties conducting their case in person--that is to say, they are
+present, and are examined and cross-examined by the judge and his six
+assistants. All the preliminaries have been committed to writing and
+are read out by the clerk of the court, the only other official
+present. In a small inclosure sit the plaintiff and defendant and
+their witnesses; behind a railing, stand and sit the audience of
+admiring friends and relations.
+
+[Footnote 9: This is all altered now since the end of 1902, when a new
+code and system was introduced, more up to date.]
+
+The room is long and low. At the further end on a raised dais sits the
+judge, behind whom is a lifesize reproduction of the Prince's
+photograph. At a horseshoe-shaped table sit the other judges, three on
+each side, and in the middle is another table holding the Bible,
+crucifix, and two candles. The candles are lit when a witness takes
+the oath.
+
+In the intervening space is a large and comfortable easy-chair, or
+perhaps it would be more correct and dignified to call it a throne. It
+is occupied by Prince Nicolas whenever he comes in, as he often does,
+for an hour or so, for he takes a keen interest in the law cases of
+his subjects. When he is present the proceedings are in no way
+altered, but the Prince himself puts now and then a pertinent question
+to the witnesses. Furthermore, it is here that the Prince every
+Saturday, when he is in residence in Cetinje, holds public audience
+and receives petitions and complaints from his lowliest subjects.
+Every petition must be committed to writing, and in the appointed
+order each man or woman steps forward while the document is read aloud
+by the clerk. The Prince puts a question or two to the petitioner and
+then gives his answer to the request, which is duly noted, and the
+next person called.
+
+It is all so simple and quick that it is hard to realise the
+importance of this commendable institution. In the olden days the
+Prince dispensed justice and favours, seated under the shade of an
+enormous tree, which has now, however, been destroyed. But in the
+height of summer, a shady spot in the open air is still found.
+
+We listened to one case, that of a woman who had amassed a large sum
+of money--for Montenegro--by fetching water from a distance at so much
+a gallon. Cetinje is almost waterless in summer, and water-carriers
+can earn small fortunes, particularly if equipped with a donkey or
+two, as was this woman. Having saved a few hundred guldens, she
+proceeded to lend it to needy friends--people are foolish in this
+respect, even in Montenegro. It would have been all right if she had
+not neglected the simple precaution of insisting on an I.O.U. for each
+loan. Her money gone, she not unnaturally asked that some of it should
+be returned, for she had fallen on evil days. But all knowledge of
+such loans was denied by the ungrateful borrowers.
+
+It was a knotty point to decide. Should the judges believe the woman's
+word, or the emphatic denials of the debtors that they had ever
+received a kreutzer? The seven looked hopelessly at each other, and
+then wisely retired to the seclusion of a private room, awaiting
+divine inspiration.
+
+As of yore, the little prison, or rather house of detention, had a
+great attraction for us. Many afternoons we wended our way thither to
+while away an hour in the genial company of the prisoners and their
+warders. The handsome young director of prisons usually accompanied
+us, ostensibly but to bear us company, though doubtless he was acting
+on higher orders, and had instructions to see that our eccentricities
+did not go too far.
+
+We organised sports on some occasions, chiefly consisting of putting
+the weight, _i.e._ a large stone, but they _would_ swindle and
+invariably overstepped the limit line, declaring that they hadn't
+afterwards.
+
+But it was their stories that we loved to listen to. They were mostly
+harmless quarrellers, for we shunned the debased thieving criminal; a
+man who could steal was vigorously excluded from our circle. There was
+one exception, however, and he was a Hungarian, a deserter from his
+regiment. That in itself is not a punishable crime, but he had eased
+the regimental cash-box of a thousand kronen at the time of his
+departure, and was awaiting the result of investigations. He
+maintained that the money was his, and was quite indignant when it was
+hinted that he must have stolen it; but unluckily he destroyed any
+belief in his honesty by invariably contradicting himself as to how he
+came by it. But he was such a good-natured, pleasant-spoken man that
+we let him sit by our side and prevaricate, till we bade him cease
+from further blackening his soul.
+
+We gleaned a lot more information from the young director of the
+prison, and amongst it the method of recapturing escaped prisoners. In
+the central prison at Podgorica, if a prisoner escapes, the rest of
+the criminals are sent out to catch him. Very often they find him, and
+never has a prisoner abused this privilege, all punctually returning
+by a given date.
+
+We stayed at Reinwein's inn, an unpretentious building, both as
+regards the exterior and interior, but as Reinwein himself is a
+Viennese, and has been for twelve years in the service of the Prince,
+acting often as cook, it is quite safe to say that at his house the
+best cooking in the whole of Montenegro is to be found. Coming into
+the country this would not be so noticeable, but after months in other
+Montenegrin towns the cooking is most appreciable. We spent very happy
+evenings in his bare little dining-room, with a decidedly cosmopolitan
+gathering. The most noticeable feature was the number of languages in
+use. Even Dalmatia, Bosnia, and the Hercegovina, where a
+three-languaged man is the rule, paled into insignificance. There was
+a Turkish official staying at Reinwein's, transacting business for his
+Government, and every evening men came to see him; that man was to be
+heard--he was a Neapolitan by birth--conversing fluently in Turkish,
+Albanian, Serb, Greek, Italian, and French, alternately. One evening I
+was trying to follow the conversation, which began in Italian, then he
+wandered off into other tongues, explaining, evidently, a letter
+written in Turkish. I got interested and went over to his table, and,
+afterwards, he told me which languages he had been using. Besides this
+little list, Reinwein spoke Russian with another man, German largely
+with us, and P. and I passed remarks to each other in English, which
+was the only unknown language. One evening two Hungarian tourists
+arrived, and then we fled from that Babel, fearing for our reason.
+
+An affable old Turk, seedy in appearance, but extremely entertaining,
+owned to six languages, not counting others of which he had only a
+smattering. Serb he didn't count as he said he could only talk on easy
+subjects in that tongue. It is very humiliating, that sort of thing,
+it is liable to lower the opinion of one's own intelligence. We kept
+late hours, too, at Reinwein's, we couldn't help it.
+
+But all good things must come to an end, and at last the day of our
+departure arrived. Cetinje itself was quite a different place to us
+than when we knew it formerly. Representative of the land in a certain
+sense it rightly is, but then a fairly full knowledge of the country
+must be acquired first to understand in what respects it represents
+the life and customs of the people beyond. To the stranger who extends
+his visit for only a week, it is sure to give manifold false
+impressions, for though Montenegro is quiet and peaceable enough, the
+appearance of Cetinje is rather too assuring. For here there is little
+trace of vendetta and quarrelling, which, however, under the powerful
+hand of the present Prince Nicolas, are surely dying out through all
+the land. When the fact is taken into consideration that the
+Montenegro of forty years ago was a rough and dangerous country,
+inhabited by a people who knew nothing of the outside world, and lived
+simply for themselves in their own land, it will be seen what
+miraculous progress has been made in the path of civilisation during
+the present reign. Peace and order have been established to a
+wonderful degree, and the State reorganised and set on a surer basis.
+With a powerful hand and not too much external help the Prince has
+carried through his reforms, and, like David in his final exhortation
+to Solomon, leaves the way ready for still greater progress to be made
+in the future. And the comparison holds good in more respects than
+one.
+
+We drank our last little cup of coffee, oddly enough, in the
+historical monastery of Ivan Beg in the company of the Vladika, to
+whom we were paying our farewell respects, and half an hour later were
+whirling down to Bajice under the shadow of the mighty Lovcen.
+
+As the grand Bocche di Cattaro again burst on our view and the first
+black and yellow sign-post of Austria was passed, we turned again for
+a last look at those seemingly forbidding and inhospitable mountains;
+but only forbidding and inhospitable to the enemy of the brave little
+race beyond. To the stranger, fresh from the comforts and improvements
+of civilisation, it is a revelation of how men live, knowing nothing
+of the luxuries of the outer world, and keep themselves untarnished in
+honour; honest and God-fearing where a man is judged by his deeds and
+not by his words. Where men do not steal or lie, and where the humble
+peasant looks his Prince in the face and says--
+
+"Lord, I am a man like thyself."
+
+They have their faults and failings, many of their customs seem
+barbaric to our eyes: but may they long be preserved from the evils of
+civilisation!
+
+Later, as the ship ploughed her way through the waves, and the
+mountains of Crnagora became ever more and more faint and indistinct,
+we thought of Tennyson's words:--
+
+    "They rose to where their sov'ran eagle sails,
+    They kept their faith, their freedom, on the height,
+    Chaste, frugal, savage, armed by day and night
+    Against the Turk; whose inroad nowhere scales
+    Their headlong passes, but his footstep fails,
+    And red with blood the Crescent reels from fight
+    Before their dauntless hundreds in prone flight
+    By thousands down the crags and through the vales.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    O smallest among peoples! rough rock-throne
+    Of Freedom! warriors beating back the swarm
+    Of Turkish Islam for five hundred years,
+    Great Crnagora! never since thine own
+    Black ridges drew the cloud and broke the storm
+    Has breathed a race of mightier mountaineers."
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Alarm,      87, 187
+Albanian costume,      139
+  " custom house,      133
+  " mass,      231
+Andrijevica,      65, 183
+Antivari,      113, 270
+Army,      26, 27, 46
+Austria,      8, 13, 137
+
+Babel,      295
+Bajice,      281
+Balsic,      17
+Band of Good Hope,      155
+Barracks,      46
+Bella Vista,      55, 143
+Billard,      43
+Bogetic,      250
+Bojana,      121, 132
+Brda,      2, 145
+Budua,      22
+Business methods,      77
+
+Cardplaying,      169
+Carina,      206
+Catherine II.,      21
+Cattaro,      22, 34
+  " Bocche di,      33
+Caxton,      19
+Cetinje,      18, 40, 42, 280
+Church,      13
+  " militant,      137
+Conversation,      285
+Crimean War,      22
+Crnagora,      15, 17, 297
+Crna Zemlja,      74, 271
+Curzola,      33
+
+Daibabe,      89
+Danilo, Crown Prince,      7, 30, 114, 156
+Danilo II.,      22
+Danilovgrad,      69, 249
+Death dirge,      85
+Dinos,      234, 236
+Dukla,      93
+Dulcigno (Ulcinj),      24, 117, 270
+
+Easter,      66, 74
+Edward VII.,      166
+
+Fatalism,      228
+Fishing,      105
+Food,      3, 107, 170, 196
+Fundina,      83, 233
+
+Gambling,      7, 265
+Gjolic,      208
+Grahovo,      23
+Gravosa,      33
+Gugga,      265
+Gusinje,      25, 187, 197, 205, 216
+Guslar,      39
+
+Heraclius,      16
+Hildebrand,      16
+Hospital,      46, 287
+Hospitality,      60
+Hotti,      227
+
+Imperfect valleys,      2
+
+Karst,      2
+Katunska,      2
+Keco,      233
+Kiuprili Pasha,      20
+Klementi,      20, 271
+Kohl,      5
+Kolasin,      65, 153
+Kolo,      157
+Kom, Kucki,      211
+   " Vasojevicki,      199
+Konjuhe,      205
+Korito,      222
+Kostice,      223
+Krivosejans,      23
+Krusevac,      62, 72
+Kuc,      20, 79, 206, 227
+
+Lakic Voivodic,      183
+Law,      28, 290
+Lesina (Hvar),      33
+Lijeva Rijeka,      150
+Lim,      183
+Ljubotin,      143
+Lovcen,      28, 103, 265
+Lunatic Asylum,      69
+
+Mala,      148
+Market,      73
+Marko Ivankovic,      118
+Martinovic,      154
+Medun,      83
+Memorial stones,      214, 221
+Michael Dozic,      164
+Militia,      171
+Mirko (father to the reigning Prince),      23, 249
+Mokra,      182, 228
+Moraca,      101, 147
+  "    monastery,      162
+Morina,      198
+
+Nicolas, Prince,      4, 5, 9, 43, 115, 177, 261
+Niksic,      24, 250, 259
+Njegusi,      38
+
+Obod,      19, 59
+Ostrog,      160, 248
+
+Pannonia,      32
+Perusica,      204
+Peter, St.,      21
+Peter II.,      21
+Petri,      265
+Petrovic,      20
+Pilgrims,      251
+Plavnica,      110
+Podgorica,      15, 28, 56, 66, 241, 263
+Pola,      32
+Popovic, Simeon,      89
+Prison,      28, 47, 69, 292
+Procletia,      216, 226
+Prstan,      113
+
+Quagmires,      152
+
+Radonic,      20
+Ragusa,      33
+Raskrsnica,      175
+Reinwein,      294
+Revolvers,      37
+Rijeka,      56, 58, 142
+Rikavac,      218
+Risano,      34, 260
+Roads,      29, 36, 65, 132, 146
+Roman Catholics,      13, 223, 225
+Rumija, 56, 103
+
+Samuel, Czar,      16
+Sandjak of Novipazar,      1, 14
+Scutari,      15, 135
+Shooting,      57, 88, 90,103, 198, 217
+Skenderbeg,      17, 265
+Sokol Baco,      100
+Spalato,      32
+Spizza,      22
+Spuz,      89, 249
+Stature,      6
+Stefan Crnoievic,      17
+Stefan Duzan,      16
+Stefan Mali,      21
+Stefan Nemanja,      16, 160
+Sutorman Pass,      112
+
+Tara,      152
+Terpetlis,      205
+Teuta,      15
+Theatre,      46
+Tobacco,      105
+Topolica,      111
+Trieste,      31
+Tusi,      234
+
+Uiko, Achmet,      96, 120, 244
+
+Vaccination,      129
+Velika,      195
+Vendetta,      75, 205, 225, 239, 240, 247, 281
+Venice,      19
+Virpazar,      110
+Vizier Bridge,      62
+Vladika,      43
+  " Mitrofanban,      44, 253, 296
+Voivoda Marko,      79, 233
+  " of the Zeta,      18, 62
+Vranjina,      103, 110
+Vucipotok,      213
+
+Wake, Montenegrin,      281
+Women,      5, 71, 243
+Wurmbrand,      31
+
+Yussuf Mucic,      81
+
+Zabljak,      17, 102
+Zara,      32
+Zatrijebac,      223
+Zem,      226, 241, 272
+Zeta,      1, 249
+
+
+
+
+A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS
+PUBLISHED BY METHUEN
+AND COMPANY: LONDON
+36 ESSEX STREET
+W.C.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+GENERAL LITERATURE,
+
+  ANTIQUARY'S BOOKS,
+
+  BEGINNER'S BOOKS,
+
+  BUSINESS BOOKS,
+
+  BYZANTINE TEXTS,
+
+  CHURCHMAN'S BIBLE,
+
+  CHURCHMAN'S LIBRARY,
+
+  CLASSICAL TRANSLATIONS,
+
+  COMMERCIAL SERIES,
+
+  CONNOISSEUR'S LIBRARY,
+
+  LIBRARY OF DEVOTION,
+
+  ILLUSTRATED POCKET LIBRARY OF PLAIN AND COLOURED BOOKS,
+
+  JUNIOR EXAMINATION SERIES,
+
+  METHUEN'S JUNIOR SCHOOL-BOOKS,
+
+  LEADERS OF RELIGION,
+
+  LITTLE BLUE BOOKS,
+
+  LITTLE BOOKS ON ART,
+
+  LITTLE GALLERIES,
+
+  LITTLE GUIDES,
+
+  LITTLE LIBRARY,
+
+  METHUEN'S MINIATURE LIBRARY,
+
+  OXFORD BIOGRAPHIES,
+
+  SCHOOL EXAMINATION SERIES,
+
+  SOCIAL QUESTIONS OF TO-DAY,
+
+  HANDBOOKS OF THEOLOGY,
+
+  METHUEN'S STANDARD LIBRARY,
+
+  WESTMINSTER COMMENTARIES,
+
+
+FICTION,
+
+  METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS,
+
+  BOOKS FOR BOYS AND GIRLS,
+
+  NOVELS OF ALEXANDRE DUMAS,
+
+
+
+
+A CATALOGUE OF MESSRS. METHUEN'S PUBLICATIONS
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Colonial Editions are published of all Messrs. METHUEN'S
+Novels issued at a price above _2s. 6d._, and similar editions are
+published of some works of General Literature. These are marked in the
+Catalogue. Colonial editions are only for circulation in the British
+Colonies and India.
+
+An asterisk denotes that a book is in the Press.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+PART I.--GENERAL LITERATURE
+
+Abbot (Jacob). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Acatos (M.J.). Modern Language Master at King Edward School, Birmingham.
+See Junior School Books.
+
+Adams (Frank). JACK SPRATT. With 24 Coloured Pictures. _Super Royal
+16mo. 2s._
+
+Adeney (W.F.), M.A. See Bennett and Adeney.
+
+AEschylus. See Classical Translations.
+
+AEsop. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Ainsworth (W. Harrison). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+*Alderson (J.P.) MR. ASQUITH. With Portraits and Illustrations. _Demy
+8vo. 6d. net._
+
+Alexander (William), D.D. Archbishop of Armagh. THOUGHTS AND COUNSELS OF
+MANY YEARS. Selected by J.H. BURN, B.D. _Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Alken (Henry). THE NATIONAL SPORTS OF GREAT BRITAIN. With descriptions
+in English and French. With 51 Coloured Plates. _Royal Folio. Five
+Guineas net._ See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Allen (Jessie). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Allen (J. Romilly), F.S.A. See Antiquary's Books.
+
+Almack (E.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Amherst (Lady). A SKETCH OF EGYPTIAN HISTORY FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO
+THE PRESENT DAY. With many illustrations, some of which are in Colour.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Anderson (F.M.). THE STORY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE FOR CHILDREN. With
+many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Andrewes (Bishop). PRECES PRIVATAE. Edited, with Notes, by F.E.
+BRIGHTMAN, M.A., of Pusey House, Oxford. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Aristophanes. THE FROGS. Translated into English by E.W. HUNTINGFORD,
+M.A., Professor of Classics in Trinity College, Toronto. _Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Aristotle. THE NICOMACHEAN ETHICS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by JOHN BURNETT, M.A., Professor of Greek at St. Andrews. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Ashton (R.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Atkins (H.G.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Atkinson (C.M.). JEREMY BENTHAM. _Demy 8vo. 5s. net._ A biography of
+this great thinker, and an estimate of his work and influence.
+
+Atkinson (T.D.). A SHORT HISTORY OF ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. With over
+200 Illustrations by the Author and others. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Aurelius (Marcus). See Methuen's University Library.
+
+Austen (Jane). See Little Library and Methuen's University Library.
+
+Aves (Ernest). See Books on Business.
+
+Bacon (Francis). See Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Baden-Powell (R.S.S.), Major-General. THE DOWNFALL OF PREMPEH. A Diary
+of Life in Ashanti, 1895. With 21 Illustrations and a Map. _Third
+Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896. With nearly 100 Illustrations. _Fourth
+and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._;
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Baker (W.G.) M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Baker (Julian L.) F.I.C., F.C.S. See Books on Business.
+
+Balfour (Graham). THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. _Second Edition.
+Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 25s. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bally (S.E.) See Commercial Series.
+
+Banks (Elizabeth L.). THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A 'NEWSPAPER GIRL'. With a
+Portrait of the Author and her Dog. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Barham (R.H.) See Little Library.
+
+Baring-Gould (S.) Author of 'Mehalah,' etc. THE LIFE OF NAPOLEON
+BONAPARTE. With over 450 Illustrations in the Text, and 12 Photogravure
+Plates. _Gill top, Large quarto. 36s._
+THE TRAGEDY OF THE CAESARS. With numerous Illustrations from Busts,
+Gems, Cameos, etc. _Fifth Edition. Royal 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations and Initial Letters
+by ARTHUR J. GASKIN. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram, 6s._
+A BOOK OF BRITTANY. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+Uniform in scope and size with Mr. Baring-Gould's well-known books on
+Devon, Cornwall, and Dartmoor.
+OLD ENGLISH FAIRY TALES. With numerous Illustrations by F.D. BEDFORD.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram, 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE VICAR OF MORWENSTOW: A Biography. A new and Revised Edition. With
+a Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+A completely new edition of the well-known biography of R.S. Hawker.
+DARTMOOR: A Descriptive and Historical Sketch. With Plans and numerous
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE BOOK OF THE WEST. With numerous Illustrations. _Two volumes._ Vol.
+I, Devon. _Second Edition._ Vol. II. Cornwall _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s. each._
+A BOOK OF NORTH WALES. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+This book is uniform with Mr. Baring-Gould's books on Devon, Dartmoor,
+and Brittany.
+*A BOOK OF SOUTH WALES. With many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A BOOK OF GHOSTS. With 8 Illustrations by D. Murray Smith. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+OLD COUNTRY LIFE. With 67 Illustrations. _Fifth Edition. Large Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+*AN OLD ENGLISH HOME. With numerous Plans and Illustrations. _Cr.
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+*YORKSHIRE ODDITIES AND STRANGE EVENTS. _Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo.
+2s. 6d. net._
+*STRANGE SURVIVALS AND SUPERSTITIONS. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s.
+6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+A GARLAND OF COUNTRY SONG: English Folk Songs with their Traditional
+Melodies. Collected and arranged by S. BARING-GOULD and H.F. SHEPPARD.
+_Demy 4to. 6s._
+SONGS OF THE WEST: Traditional Ballads and Songs of the West of
+England, with their Melodies. Collected by S. BARING-GOULD
+and H.F. SHEPARD, M.A. In 4 Parts. _Parts I., II., III., 2s.
+6d. each. Part IV., 4s. In One Volume, French Morocco, 10s. net.;
+Roan, 15s._
+See also The Little Guides.
+
+Barker (Aldred F.). Author of 'Pattern Analysis,' etc. See Textbooks
+of Technology.
+
+Barnes (W.E.), D.D., Hulsaean Professor of Divinity at Cambridge. See
+Churchman's Bible.
+
+Barnett (Mrs. P.A.). See Little Library.
+
+Baron (R.R.N.), M.A. FRENCH PROSE COMPOSITION. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+Key, 3s. net._ See also Junior School Books.
+
+Barron (H.M.), M.A., Wadham College, Oxford. TEXTS FOR SERMONS. With
+a Preface by Canon SCOTT HOLLAND. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Bastable (C.F.), M.A., Professor of Economics at Trinity College,
+Dublin. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Batson (Mrs. Stephen). A BOOK OF THE COUNTRY AND THE GARDEN. Illustrated
+by F. CARRUTHERS GOULD and A.C. GOULD. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF GARDEN FLOWERS. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+*Batten (Loring W.). Ph.D., S.T.D., Rector of St. Mark's Church,
+New York; sometime Professor in the Philadelphia Divinity School. THE
+HEBREW PROPHET. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Beaman (A. Hulme). PONS ASINORUM; OR, A GUIDE TO BRIDGE. _Second
+Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s._
+
+Beard (W.S.) See Junior Examination Series.
+EASY EXERCISES IN ARITHMETIC. Arranged by. _Cr. 8vo._ Without Answers,
+_1s._ With Answers, _1s. 3d._
+
+Beckford (Peter). THOUGHTS ON HUNTING. Edited by J. OTHO PAGET, and
+Illustrated by G.H. JALLAND. _Second and Cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Beckford (William). See Little Library.
+
+Beeching (H.C.), M.A., Canon of Westminster. See Library of
+Devotion.
+
+Behmen (Jacob). THE SUPERSENSUAL LIFE. Edited by BERNARD
+HOLLAND. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Belloc (Hilaire). PARIS. With Maps and Illustrations. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Bellot (H.H.L.), M.A. THE INNER AND MIDDLE TEMPLE. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s. net._
+See also L.A.A. Jones.
+
+Bennet (W.H.), M.A. A PRIMER OF THE BIBLE. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Bennett (W.H.) and Adeney (W.F.). A BIBLICAL INTRODUCTION. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Benson (Archbishop). GOD'S BOARD: Communion Addresses. _Fcap, 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Benson (A.C.), M.A. See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Benson (R.M.). THE WAY OF HOLINESS: a Devotional Commentary on the
+119th Psalm. _Crown 8vo. 5s._
+
+Bernard (E.R.), M.A., Canon of Salisbury. THE ENGLISH SUNDAY. _Fcap.
+8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Bertouch (Baroness de). THE LIFE OF FATHER IGNATIUS, O.S.B., THE
+MONK OF LLANTHONY. With Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bethune-Baker (J.F.), M.A., Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge.
+See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Bidez (M.). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Biggs (C.R.D.), D.D. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+Bindley (T. Herbert), B.D. THE OECUMENICAL DOCUMENTS OF THE FAITH.
+With Introductions and Notes. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A historical account of the Creeds.
+
+Binyon (Laurence). THE DEATH OF ADAM, AND OTHER POEMS. _Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Birnstingl (Ethel). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Blair (Robert). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Blake (William). See Illustrated Pocket Library and Little Library.
+
+Blaxland (B.), M.A. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Bloom (T. Harvey), M.A. SHAKESPEARE'S GARDEN. With Illustrations.
+_Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; leather, 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Blouet (Henri). See The Beginner's Books.
+
+Boardman (T.H.). See Text Books of Technology.
+
+Bodley (J.E.C.), Author of 'France.' THE CORONATION OF EDWARD VII.
+_Demy 8vo. 21s. net._ By Command of the King.
+
+Body (George), D.D. THE SOUL'S PILGRIMAGE: Devotional Readings from his
+published and unpublished writings. Selected and arranged by J.H. BURN,
+B.D. F.R.S.E. _Pott 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Bona (Cardinal). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Boon (F.C.), See Commercial Series.
+
+Borrow (George), See Little Library.
+
+Bos (J. Ritzema). AGRICULTURAL ZOOLOGY. Translated by J.R. AINSWORTH
+DAVIS, M.A. With an Introduction by ELEANOR A. ORMEROD, F.E.S. With 153
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. Third Edition. 3s. 6d._
+
+Botting (C.G.), B.A. EASY GREEK EXERCISES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._ See also
+Junior Examination Series.
+
+Boulton (E.S.). GEOMETRY ON MODERN LINES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Bowden (E.M.). THE IMITATION OF BUDDHA: Being Quotations from Buddhist
+Literature for each Day in the Year. _Fourth Edition. Crown 16mo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Boyle (W.). CHRISTMAS AT THE ZOO. With Verses by W. BOYLE and 24
+Coloured Pictures by H.B. NEILSON. _Super Royal 16mo. 2s._
+
+Brabant (F.G.), M.A. See The Little Guides.
+
+Brodrick (Mary) and Morton (Anderson). A CONCISE HANDBOOK OF EGYPTIAN
+ARCHAEOLOGY. With many Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Brooke (A.S.), M.A. SLINGSBY AND SLINGSBY CASTLE. With many
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Brooks (E.W.). See Byzantine Tests.
+
+Brown (P.H.), Fraser Professor of Ancient (Scottish) History at the
+University of Edinburgh. SCOTLAND IN THE TIME OF QUEEN MARY. _Demy
+8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Browne (Sir Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Brownell (C.L.). THE HEART OF JAPAN. Illustrated. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s.; also Demy 8vo. 6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Browning (Robert). See Little Library.
+
+Buckhand (Francis T.). CURIOSITIES OF NATURAL HISTORY. With
+Illustrations by HARRY B. NEILSON. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Buckton (A.M.). THE BURDEN OF ENGELA: a Ballad-Epic. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+EAGER HEART: A Mystery Play. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. net._
+
+Budge (E.A. Wallis). THE GODS OF THE EGYPTIANS. With over 100 Coloured
+Plates and many Illustrations, _Two Volumes. Royal 8vo. L3. 3s. net._
+
+Bull (Paul), Army Chaplain. GOD AND OUR SOLDIERS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Bulley (Miss). See Social Question Series.
+
+Bunyan (John). THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. Edited, with an Introduction,
+by C.H. FIRTH, M.A. With 39 Illustrations by R. ANNING BELL. _Cr. 8vo.
+6s._ See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Burch (G.J.), M.A., F.R.S. A MANUAL OF ELECTRICAL SCIENCE. With
+numerous illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s._
+
+Burgess (Gelett). GOOPS AND HOW TO BE THEM. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Small 4to. 6s._
+
+Burke (Edmund). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Burn (A.E.), D.D., Prebendary of Lichfield. See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Burn (J.H.), B.D. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Burnand (Sir F.C.). RECORDS AND REMINISCENCES, PERSONAL AND GENERAL.
+With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. Two Volumes. Third Edition. 25s.
+net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Burns (Robert), THE POEMS OF. Edited by ANDREW LANG and W.A. CRAIGIE.
+With Portrait. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo, gilt top. 6s._
+
+Burnside (W.F.), M.A. OLD TESTAMENT HISTORY FOR USE IN SCHOOLS. _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Burton (Alfred). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Butler (Joseph). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Caldecott (Alfred), D.D. See Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Calderwood (D.S.), Headmaster of the Normal School, Edinburgh. TEST
+CARDS IN EUCLID AND ALGEBRA. In three packets of 40, with Answers,
+_1s._ each. Or in three Books, price _2d., 2d., and 3d._
+
+Cambridge (Ada) [Mrs. Cross]. THIRTY YEARS IN AUSTRALIA. _Demy 8vo. 7s.
+6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Canning (George). See Little Library.
+
+Capey (E.F.H.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Careless (John). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Carlyle (Thomas). THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. Edited by C.R.L. FLETCHER,
+Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. _Three Volumes. Crown 8vo. 18s._
+THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF OLIVER CROMWELL. With an introduction by C.H.
+FIRTH, M.A., and Notes and Appendices by Mrs. S.C. LOMAS. _Three
+Volumes. Demy 8vo. 18s. net._
+
+Carlyle (R.M. and A.J.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Chamberlin (Wilbur B.). ORDERED TO CHINA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Channer (C.C.) and Roberts (M.E.). LACE-MAKING IN THE MIDLANDS, PAST AND
+PRESENT. With 16 full-page Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Chatterton (Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Chesterfield (Lord), THE LETTERS OF, TO HIS SON. Edited, with an
+Introduction by C. STRACHEY, and Notes by A. CALTHROP. _Two Volumes. Cr.
+8vo. 12s._
+
+Christian (F.W.) THE CAROLINE ISLANDS. With many Illustrations and
+Maps. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
+
+Cicero. See Classical Translations.
+
+Clarke (F.A.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Cleather (A.L.) and Crump (B.). RICHARD WAGNER'S MUSIC DRAMAS:
+Interpretations, embodying Wagner's own explanations. _In Four Volumes.
+Fcap 8vo. 2s. 6d. each._
+VOL. I.--THE RING OF THE NIBELUNG.
+VOL. II.--PARSIFAL, LOHENGRIN, and THE HOLY GRAIL.
+
+Clinch (G.) See The Little Guides.
+
+Clough (W.T.), Head of the Physical Department East Ham Technical
+College. See Junior School Books.
+
+Coast (W.G.), B.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN VERGIL. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Cobb (T.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Collingwood (W.G.), M.A. THE LIFE OF JOHN RUSKIN. With Portraits. _New
+and Cheaper Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s._ Also a Popular Edition. _Cr. 8vo. 2s.
+6d. net._
+
+Collins (W.E.), M.A. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Colonna. HYPNEROTOMACHIA POLIPHILI UBI HUMANA OMNIA NON NISI SOMNIUM
+ESSE DOCET ATQUE OBITER PLURIMA SCITU SANE QUAM DIGNA COMMEMORAT. An
+edition limited to 350 copies on hand-made paper. _Folio. Three Guineas
+net._
+
+Combe (William). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Cook (A.M.), M.A. See E.C. Marchant.
+
+Cooke-Taylor (R.W.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Corelli (Marie). THE PASSING OF THE GREAT QUEEN: A Tribute to the
+Noble Life of Victoria Regina. _Small 4to. 1s._
+A CHRISTMAS GREETING. _Sm. 4to. 1s._
+
+Corkran (Alice). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Cotes (Rosemary). DANTE'S GARDEN. With a Frontispiece. _Second Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. cloth 2s. 6d.; leather, 3s. 6d. net._
+BIBLE FLOWERS. With a Frontispiece and Plan. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Cowley (Abraham). See Little Library.
+
+Cox (J. Charles), LL.D., F.S.A. See Little Guides.
+
+Cox (Harold), B.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Crabbe (George). See Little Library.
+
+Craigie (W.A.). A PRIMER OF BURNS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Craik (Mrs.). See Little Library.
+
+Crashaw (Richard). See Little Library.
+
+Crawford (F.G.). See Mary C. Danson.
+
+Crouch (W.), BRYAN KING. With a Portrait. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Cruikshank (G.). THE LOVING BALLAD OF LORD BATEMAN. With 11 Plates.
+_Crown 16vo. 1s. 6d. net._
+From the edition published by C. Tilt, 1811.
+
+Crump (B.). See A.L. Cleather.
+
+Cunliffe (F.H.E.), Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford. THE HISTORY
+OF THE BOER WAR. With many Illustrations, Plans, and Portraits. _In 2
+vols. Quarto. 15s. each._
+
+Cutts (E.L.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Daniell (G.W.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Danson (Mary C.) and Crawford (F.G.). FATHERS IN THE FAITH. _Small
+8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Dante. LA COMMEDIA DI DANTE. The Italian Text edited by PAGET TOYNBEE,
+M.A., D. Litt. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Paget Toynbee, Little Library,
+and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Darley (George). See Little Library.
+
+Davenport (Cyril). See Connoisseur's Library and Little Books on
+Art.
+
+Dawson (A.J.). MOROCCO. Being a bundle of jottings, notes, impressions,
+tales, and tributes. With many Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Deane (A.C.). See Little Library.
+
+Delbos (Leon). THE METRIC SYSTEM. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Demosthenes: THE OLYNTHIACS AND PHILIPPICS. Translated upon a new
+principle by OTHO HOLLAND _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Demosthenes. AGAINST CONON AND CALLICLES. Edited with Notes and
+Vocabulary, by F. DARWIN SWIFT, M.A. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s._
+
+Dickens (Charles). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Dickinson (Emily). POEMS. First Series. _Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Dickinson (G. L.). M.A., Fellow of King's College, Cambridge. THE GREEK
+VIEW OF LIFE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Dickson (H.N.). F.R.S.E., F.R.Met. Soc METEOROLOGY, Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Dilke (Lady). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Dillon (Edward). See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Ditchfield (P.H.). M.A., F.S.A. ENGLISH VILLAGES. Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+THE STORY OF OUR ENGLISH TOWNS. With an Introduction by AUGUSTUS
+JESSOPP, D.D. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+OLD ENGLISH CUSTOMS: Extant at the Present Time. An Account of Local
+Observances, Festival Customs, and Ancient Ceremonies yet Surviving in
+Great Britain. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Dixon (W.H.). M.A. A PRIMER OF TENNYSON. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+ENGLISH POETRY FROM BLAKE TO BROWNING. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Dole (N.H.). FAMOUS COMPOSERS. With Portraits. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo
+net._
+
+Dowden (J.). D.D., Lord Bishop of Edinburgh. See Churchman's Library
+
+Drage (G.) See Books on Business.
+
+Driver (S.R.). D.D., Canon of Christ Church, Regius Professor of
+Hebrew in the University of Oxford. SERMONS ON SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH
+THE OLD TESTAMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Dryhurst (A.R.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Duguid (Charles), City Editor of the _Morning Post,_ Author of the
+'Story of the Stock Exchange,' etc. See Books on Business.
+
+Duncan (S.J.) (Mrs. COTES), Author of 'A Voyage of
+Consolation.' ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LATCH. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Dunn (J.T.), D.Sc., and Mundella (V.A.). GENERAL ELEMENTARY
+SCIENCE. With 114 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Dunstan (A.E.), B.Sc., Head of the Chemical Department, East Ham
+Technical College. See Junior School Books.
+
+*Durham (The Earl Of). A REPORT ON CANADA. With an Introductory Note.
+_Demy 8vo. 4s. 6d. net._
+
+Dutt (W.A.). A POPULAR GUIDE TO NORFOLK. _Medium 8vo. 6d. net._ THE
+NORFOLK BROADS. With coloured and other Illustrations by FRANK
+SOUTHGATE. _Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net._ See also The Little Guides.
+
+Earle (John), Bishop of Salisbury. MICROCOSMOGRAPHE, OR A PIECE OF THE
+WORLD DISCOVERED; IN ESSAYES AND CHARACTERS. _Post 16mo. 2s. net._
+Reprinted from the Sixth Edition published by Robert Allot in 1633.
+
+Edwards (Clement). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Edwards (W. Douglas). See Commercial Series.
+
+*Edwards (Betham). HOME LIFE IN FRANCE. With many Illustrations. _Demy
+8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Egan (Pierce). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Egerton (H.E.), M.A. A HISTORY OF BRITISH COLONIAL POLICY. _Demy 8vo.
+12s. 6d._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Ellaby (C.G.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Ellerton (P.G.). See S. I. Stone.
+
+Ellwood (Thomas), THE HISTORY OF THE LIFE OF. Edited by C.G. CRUMP, M.A.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Engel (E.). A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE: From its Beginning to
+Tennyson. Translated from the German. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Fairbrother (W.H.), M.A. THE PHILOSOPHY OF T. H. GREEN. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+FELISSA; OR, THE LIFE AND OPINIONS OF A KITTEN OF SENTIMENT. With 12
+Coloured Plates. _Post 16mo. 2s. 6d. net._ (5-1/2 X 3-1/2).
+From the edition published by J. Harris, 1811.
+
+Farrer (Reginald). THE GARDEN OF ASIA. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Ferrier (Susan). See Little Library.
+
+Fidler (T. Claxton), M. Inst. C.E., Professor of Engineering, University
+College, Dundee in the University of St. Andrews. See Books on Business.
+
+Fielding (Henry). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Finn (S.W.), M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Firth (C.H.), M.A. CROMWELL'S ARMY: A History of the English Soldier
+during the Civil Wars, the Commonwealth, and the Protectorate. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Fisher (G.W.), M.A. ANNALS OF SHREWSBURY SCHOOL. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+FitzGerald (Edward). THE RUB'AIYAT OF OMAR KHAYYAM. Printed from the
+Fifth and last Edition. With a Commentary by Mrs. STEPHEN BATSON, and a
+Biography of Omar by E.D. Ross. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Miniature
+Library.
+
+Flecker (W.H.), M.A., D.C.L., Headmaster of the Dean Close School,
+Cheltenham. THE STUDENT'S PRAYER BOOK. Part I. MORNING AND EVENING
+PRAYER AND LITANY. With an Introduction and Notes. _Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Flux (A.W.), M.A., William Dow Professor of Political Economy in
+M'Gill University, Montreal: sometime Fellow of St. John's College,
+Cambridge, and formerly Stanley-Jevons Professor of Political Economy
+in the Owens Coll., Manchester. ECONOMIC PRINCIPLES. _Demy 8vo. 7s.
+6d. net._
+
+Fortescue (Mrs. G.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Fraser (David). A MODERN CAMPAIGN; OR, WAR AND WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY
+IN THE FAR EAST. Illustrated. _Crown. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fraser (J.F.). ROUND THE WORLD ON A WHEEL. With 100 Illustrations.
+_Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+French (W.). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Freudenreich (Ed. von). DAIRY BACTERIOLOGY. A Short Manual for the Use
+of Students. Translated by J.R. AINSWORTH DAVIS, M.A. _Second Edition.
+Revised. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Fulford (H.W.), M.A. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+C.G. and F.C.G. JOHN BULL'S ADVENTURES IN THE FISCAL WONDERLAND. By
+CHARLES GEAKE. With 46 Illustrations by F. CARRUTHERS GOULD. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Gallichan (W.M.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Gambado (Geoffrey, Esq.). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Gaskell (Mrs.). See Little Library.
+
+Gasquet, the Right Rev. Abbot, O.S.B. See Antiquary's Books.
+
+George (H.B.), M.A., Fellow of New College, Oxford. BATTLES OF ENGLISH
+HISTORY. With numerous Plans. _Fourth Edition._ Revised, with a new
+Chapter including the South African War. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Gibbins (H. de B.), Litt. D., M.A. INDUSTRY IN ENGLAND: HISTORICAL
+OUTLINES. With 5 Maps. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+A COMPANION GERMAN GRAMMAR. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. _Tenth Edition._ Revised. With Maps
+and Plans. _Crown 8vo. 3s._
+ENGLISH SOCIAL REFORMERS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._ See
+also Commercial Series and Social Questions Series.
+
+Gibbon (Edward). THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. A New
+Edition, edited with Notes, Appendices, and Maps, by J.B. BURY, M.A.,
+Litt. D., Regius Professor of Greek at Cambridge. _In Seven Volumes.
+Demy 8vo. Gilt top, 8s. 6d. each. Also, Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+MEMOIRS OF MY LIFE AND WRITINGS. Edited, with an Introduction and
+Notes, by G. BIRKBECK HILL, LL.D. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Gibson (E.C.S.), D.D., Vicar of Leeds. See Westminster Commentaries,
+Handbooks of Theology, and Oxford Biographies.
+
+Gilbert (A.R.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Godfrey (Elizabeth). A BOOK OF REMEMBRANCE. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Godley (A.D.), M.A., Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. LYRA FRIVOLA.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+VERSES TO ORDER. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+SECOND STRINGS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Goldsmith (Oliver). THE VICAR OF WAKEFIELD. With 24 Coloured Plates by
+T. ROWLANDSON. _Royal 8vo. One Guinea net._
+Reprinted from the edition of 1817. Also _Fcap. 32mo._ With 10 Plates in
+Photogravure by Tony Johannot. _Leather, 2s. 6d. net._ See also
+Illustrated Pocket Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Goudge (H.L.), M.A., Principal of Wells Theological College. See
+Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Graham (P. Anderson). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Granger (F.S.), M.A., Litt.D. PSYCHOLOGY. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._ THE SOUL OF A CHRISTIAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gray (E. M'Queen). GERMAN PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN TRANSLATION. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Gray (P.L.), B.Sc., formerly Lecturer in Physics in Mason University
+College, Birmingham. THE PRINCIPLES OF MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY: an
+Elementary Text-Book. With 181 Diagrams. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Green (G. Buckland), M.A., Assistant Master at Edinburgh Academy, late
+Fellow of St. John's College, Oxon. NOTES ON GREEK AND LATIN SYNTAX.
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Green (E.T.), M.A. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Greenidge (A.H.J.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ROME: During the Later Republic
+and the Early Principate. _In Six Volumes. Demy 8vo._ Vol. I. (133-104
+B.C.). _10s. 6d. net._
+
+Greenwell (Dora). See Miniature Library.
+
+Gregory (R.A.) THE VAULT OF HEAVEN. A Popular Introduction to Astronomy.
+With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Gregory (Miss E.C.). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Greville Minor. A MODERN JOURNAL. Edited by J.A. SPENDER. _Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d. net._
+
+Grinling (C.H.). A HISTORY OF THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, 1845-95. With
+Illustrations. Revised, with an additional chapter. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+Grubb (H.C.). See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Guiney (Louisa I.). HURRELL FROUDE: Memoranda and Comments. Illustrated.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Gwynn (M.L.). A BIRTHDAY BOOK. _Royal 8vo. 12s._
+
+Hackett (John), B.D. A HISTORY OF THE ORTHODOX CHURCH OF CYPRUS. With
+Maps and Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Haddon (A.C.), Sc.D., F.R.S. HEAD-HUNTERS, BLACK, WHITE, AND BROWN.
+With many Illustrations and a Map. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Hadfield (R.A.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hall (R.N.) and Neal (W.G.). THE ANCIENT RUINS OF RHODESIA. With
+numerous Illustrations. _Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Hall (R.N.). GREAT ZIMBABWE. With numerous Plans and Illustrations.
+_Royal 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hamilton (F.J.), D.D. See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Hammond (J.L.). CHARLES JAMES FOX: A Biographical Study. _Demy 8vo.
+10s. 6d._
+
+Hannay (D.). A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ROYAL NAVY, FROM EARLY TIMES TO THE
+PRESENT DAY. Illustrated. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. each._
+Vol. I. 1200-1688.
+
+Hannay (James O.), M.A. THE SPIRIT AND ORIGIN OF CHRISTIAN MONASTICISM.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._ THE WISDOM OF THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Hare, (A.T.), M.A. THE CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE INDUCTION COILS. With
+numerous Diagrams. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+Harrison (Clifford). READING AND READERS. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Hawthorne (Nathaniel). See Little Library. HEALTH, WEALTH AND WISDOM.
+_Crown 8vo. 1s. net._
+
+Heath (Frank R.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Heath (Dudley). See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Hello (Ernest). STUDIES IN SAINTSHIP. Translated from the French by
+V.M. CRAWFORD. _Fcap 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Henderson (B.W.). Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford. THE LIFE AND
+PRINCIPATE OF THE EMPEROR NERO. With Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s.
+6d. net._
+
+Henderson (T.F.). See Little Library and Oxford Biographies.
+
+Henley (W.E.). ENGLISH LYRICS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Henley (W.E.) and Whibley (C.). A BOOK OF ENGLISH PROSE. _Crown 8vo.
+Buckram, gilt top. 6s._
+
+Henson (H.H.), B.D., Canon of Westminster. APOSTOLIC CHRISTIANITY:
+As Illustrated by the Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+LIGHT AND LEAVEN: HISTORICAL AND SOCIAL SERMONS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+DISCIPLINE AND LAW. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Herbert (George). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Herbert Of Cherbury (Lord). See Miniature Library.
+
+Hewins (W.A.S.), B.A. ENGLISH TRADE AND FINANCE IN THE SEVENTEENTH
+CENTURY. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Heywood (W.). PALIO AND PONTE: A Book of Tuscan Games. Illustrated.
+_Royal 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hilbert (T.). See Little Blue Books.
+
+Hill (Glare), Registered Teacher to the City and Guilds of London
+Institute. See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Hill (Henry), B.A., Headmaster of the Boy's High School, Worcester,
+Cape Colony. A SOUTH AFRICAN ARITHMETIC. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+This book has been specially written for use in South African schools.
+
+Hillegas (Howard C.). WITH THE BOER FORCES. With 24 Illustrations.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hobhouse (Emily). THE BRUNT OF THE WAR. With Map and Illustrations.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Hobhouse (L.T.), Fellow of C.C.C., Oxford. THE THEORY OF KNOWLEDGE.
+_Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Hobson (J.A.), M.A. INTERNATIONAL TRADE: A Study of Economic Principles.
+_Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._ See also Social Questions Series.
+
+Hodgkin (T.), D.C.L. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hogg (Thomas Jefferson). SHELLEY AT OXFORD. With an Introduction by
+R.A. STREATFEILD. _Fcap. 8vo. 2s. net._
+
+Holden-Stone (G. de). See Books on Business.
+
+Holdich (Sir T.H.). K.C.I.E. THE INDIAN BORDERLAND: being a Personal
+Record of Twenty Years. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Holdsworth (W.S.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. _In Two Volumes.
+Vol. I. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Holyoake (G.J.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hoppner. See Little Galleries.
+
+Horace. See Classical Translations.
+
+Horsburgh (E.L.S.), M.A. WATERLOO: A Narrative and Criticism. With
+Plans. _Second Edition. Crown. 8vo. 5s._ See also Oxford Biographies.
+
+Horth (A.C.)., Master of Art and Manual Training Departments, Roan
+School, Greenwich. See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Horton (R.F.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hosie (Alexander). MANCHURIA. With Illustrations and a Map. _Second
+Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+How (F.D.). SIX GREAT SCHOOLMASTERS. With Portraits and Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Howell (G.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Hudson (Robert), MEMORIALS OF A WARWICKSHIRE PARISH. With many
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 15s. net._
+
+Hughes (C.E.). THE PRAISE OF SHAKESPEARE. An English Anthology. With
+a Preface by SIDNEY LEE. _Demy 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Hughes (Thomas). TOM BROWN'S SCHOOLDAYS. With an Introduction and
+Notes by VERNON RENDALL. _Leather. Royal 32mo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Hutchinson (Horace G.). THE NEW FOREST. Described by. Illustrated in
+colour with 50 Pictures by WALTER TYNDALE and 4 by Miss LUCY KEMP WELCH.
+_Large Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Hutton (A.W.), M.A. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hutton (R.H.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hutton (W.H.), M.A. THE LIFE OF SIR THOMAS MORE. With Portraits.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 5s._ See also Leaders of Religion.
+
+Hyett (F.A.). A SHORT HISTORY OF FLORENCE. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Ibsen (Henrik). BRAND. A Drama. Translated by WILLIAM WILSON. _Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Inge (W.R.), M.A., Fellow and Tutor of Hertford College, Oxford.
+CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. The Bampton Lectures for 1899. _Demy 8vo. 12s.
+6d. net_, See also Library of Devotion.
+
+Innes (A.D.), M.A. A HISTORY OF THE BRITISH IN INDIA. With Maps and
+Plans. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Jackson (S.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+Jackson (F. Hamilton). See The Little Guides.
+
+Jacob (F.), M.A. See Junior Examination Series.
+
+Jeans (J. Stephen). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Jeffreys (D. Gwyn). DOLLY'S THEATRICALS. Described and Illustrated
+with 24 Coloured Pictures. _Super Royal 16mo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Jenks (E.), M.A., Reader of Law in the University of Oxford. ENGLISH
+LOCAL GOVERNMENT. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Jessopp (Augustus), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Jevons (F.B.), M.A., Litt.D., Principal of Hatfield Hall, Durham. See
+Churchman's Library and Handbooks of Theology.
+
+Johnson (Mrs. Barham). WILLIAM BODHAM DONNE AND HIS FRIENDS. With
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Johnston (Sir H.H.), K.C.B. BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA. With nearly 200
+Illustrations and Six Maps. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 18s. net._
+
+Jones (H.). See Commercial Series.
+
+Jones (L.A. Atherley), K.C., M.P., and Bellot (Hugh H.L.). THE MINERS'
+GUIDE TO THE COAL MINES' REGULATION ACTS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Jonson (Ben). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Julian (Lady) Of Norwich. REVELATIONS OF DIVINE LOVE. Edited by GRACE
+WARRACK. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Juvenal. See Classical Translations.
+
+Kaufmann (M.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Keating (J.F.), D.D. THE AGAPE AND THE EUCHARIST. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Keats (John). THE POEMS OF. Edited with Introduction and Notes by E.
+de Selincourt, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._ See also Little Library
+and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Keble (John). THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. With an Introduction and Notes by W.
+LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College. Illustrated by R. ANNING BELL.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; padded morocco, 5s._ See also
+Library of Devotion.
+
+Kempis (Thomas A.). THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. With an Introduction by
+DEAN FARRAR. Illustrated by C.M. GERE. _Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s.
+6d.; padded morocco, 5s._ See also Library of Devotion and Methuen's
+Universal Library.
+Also Translated by C. BIGG, D.D. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Kennedy (James Houghton), D.D., Assistant Lecturer in Divinity in the
+University of Dublin. ST. PAUL'S SECOND AND THIRD EPISTLES TO THE
+CORINTHIANS. With Introduction, Dissertations and Notes. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Kestell (J.D.). THROUGH SHOT AND FLAME: Being the Adventures and
+Experiences of J.D. KESTELL, Chaplain to General Christian de Wet.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Kimmins (C.W.), M.A. THE CHEMISTRY OF LIFE AND HEALTH. Illustrated.
+_Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Kinglake (A.W.). See Little Library.
+
+Kipling (Rudyard). BARRACK-ROOM BALLADS. _73rd Thousand. Cr. 8vo.
+Twentieth Edition. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE SEVEN SEAS. _62nd Thousand. Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo, gilt top,
+6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+THE FIVE NATIONS. _41st Thousand. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. _Sixteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. Buckram. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Knowling (E.J.), M.A., Professor of New Testament Exegesis at King's
+College, London. See Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Lamb (Charles and Mary), THE WORKS OF. Edited by E.V. LUCAS. With
+Numerous Illustrations. _In Seven Volumes. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. each._
+THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. With over 100 Illustrations by A. GARTH JONES, and
+an Introduction by E.V. LUCAS. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+THE KING AND QUEEN OF HEARTS: An 1805 Book for Children. Illustrated
+by WILLIAM MULREADY. A new edition, in facsimile, edited by E.V.
+LUCAS, _1s. 6d._
+See also Little Library.
+
+Lambert (F.A.H.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Lambros (Professor). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Lane-Poole (Stanley). A HISTORY OF EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. Fully
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Langbridge (F.), M.A., BALLADS OF THE BRAVE: Poems of Chivalry.
+Enterprise, Courage, and Constancy. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.
+6d._
+
+Law (William). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Leach (Henry). THE DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. A Biography. With 12
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo, 12s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+*Lee (Captain L. Melville). A HISTORY OF POLICE IN ENGLAND. _Crown
+8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Leigh (Percival). THE COMIC ENGLISH GRAMMAR. Embellished with upwards
+of 50 characteristic Illustrations by JOHN LEECH. _Post 16mo. 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+Lewes (V.B.), M.A. AIR AND WATER. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Lisle (Fortunee de). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Littlehales (H.). See Antiquary's Books.
+
+Lock (Walter), D.D., Warden of Keble College. ST. PAUL, THE
+MASTER-BUILDER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._ See also Leaders
+of Religion.
+
+Locke (John). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Locker (F.). See Little Library.
+
+Longfellow (H.W.) See Little Library.
+
+Lorimer (George Horace). LETTERS FROM A SELF-MADE MERCHANT TO HIS SON.
+_Twelfth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+OLD GORGON GRAHAM. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Lover (Samuel). See Illustrated Pocket Library
+
+E.V.L. and C.L.G. ENGLAND DAY BY DAY: Or, The Englishman's Handbook to
+Efficiency. Illustrated by GEORGE MORROW. _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 4to.
+1s. net._
+A burlesque Year-Book and Almanac.
+
+Lucas (E.V.). THE LIFE OF CHARLES LAMB. With numerous Portraits and
+Illustrations. _Two Vols. Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
+
+Lucian. See Classical Translations.
+
+Lyde (L.W.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+Lydon (Noel S.). See Junior School Books.
+
+Lyttelton (Hon. Mrs. A.). WOMEN AND THEIR WORK. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+M.M. HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR. _Crown 8vo, 1s. net._
+
+Macaulay (Lord). CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL ESSAYS. Edited by F.C.
+MONTAGUE, M.A. _Three Volumes. Cr. 8vo. 18s._
+The only edition of this book completely annotated.
+
+M'Allen (J.E.B.), M.A. See Commercial Series.
+
+MacCulloch (J.A.). See Churchman's Library.
+
+MacCunn (F.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+McDermott, (E.R.), Editor of the _Railway News_, City Editor of the
+_Daily News_. See Books on Business.
+
+M'Dowall (A.S.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Mackay (A.M.). See Churchman's Library.
+
+Magnus (Laurie), M.A. A PRIMER OF WORDSWORTH. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Mahaffy (J.P.), Litt. D. A HISTORY OF THE EGYPT OF THE PTOLEMIES.
+Fully Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Maitland (F.W.). LL.D., Downing Professor of the Laws of England in
+the University of Cambridge. CANON LAW IN ENGLAND. _Royal 8vo. 7s.
+6d._
+
+Maiden (H.E.), M.A. ENGLISH RECORDS. A Companion to the History of
+England. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE ENGLISH CITIZEN: HIS RIGHTS AND DUTIES. _Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Marchant (E.C.), M.A., Fellow of Peterhouse, Cambridge. A GREEK
+ANTHOLOGY. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Marchant (B.C.), M.A., and Cook (A.M.), M.A. PASSAGES FOR UNSEEN
+TRANSLATION. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Marlowe (Christopher). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Marr (J.E.), F.R.S., Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge. THE
+SCIENTIFIC STUDY OF SCENERY. _Second Edition._ Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+AGRICULTURAL GEOLOGY. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Marvell (Andrew). See Little Library.
+
+Maskell (A.) See Connoisseur's Library.
+
+Mason (A.J.), D.D. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Massee (George). THE EVOLUTION OF PLANT LIFE: Lower Forms. With
+Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Masterman (C.F.G.), M.A. TENNYSON AS A RELIGIOUS TEACHER, _Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+May (Phil). THE PHIL MAY ALBUM. _Second Edition, 4to. 1s. net._
+
+Mellows (Emma S.). A SHORT STORY OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Michell (E.B.). THE ART AND PRACTICE OF HAWKING. With 3 Photogravures
+by G.E. LODGE, and other Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+*Millais (J.G.). THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF SIR JOHN EVERETT MILLAIS,
+President of the Royal Academy. With 319 Illustrations, of which 9 are
+in Photogravure. _New Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Millais (Sir John Everett). See Little Galleries.
+
+Millis (C.T.), M.I.M.E., Principal of the Borough Polytechnic College.
+See Textbooks of Technology.
+
+Milne (J.G.), M.A. A HISTORY OF ROMAN EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. _Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Milton, John, THE POEMS OF, BOTH ENGLISH AND LATIN, Compos'd at several
+times. Printed by his true Copies.
+The Songs were set in Musick by Mr. HENRY LAWES, Gentleman of the
+Kings Chappel, and one of His Majesties Private Musick.
+Printed and published according to Order.
+Printed by RUTH RAWORTH for HUMPHREY MOSELEV, and are to be sold at
+the signe of the Princes Armes in Pauls Churchyard, 1645.
+See also Little Library and Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Minchin (H.C.), M.A. See Little Galleries.
+
+Mitchell (P. Chalmers), M.A. OUTLINES OF BIOLOGY. Illustrated. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A text-book designed to cover the Schedule issued by the Royal College
+of Physicians and Surgeons.
+
+'Moil (A.)'. See Books on Business.
+
+Moir (D.M.). See Little Library.
+
+Moore (H.E.). See Social Questions Series.
+
+Moran (Clarence G.). See Books on Business.
+
+More (Sir Thomas). See Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Morfill (W.R.), Oriel College, Oxford. A HISTORY OF RUSSIA FROM PETER
+THE GREAT TO ALEXANDER II. With Maps and Plans. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Morich (R.J.), late of Clifton College. See School Examination
+Series.
+
+Morris (J.E.). See The Little Guides.
+
+Morton (Miss Anderson). See Miss Brodrick.
+
+Moule (H.C.G.), D.D., Lord Bishop of Durham. See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Muir (M.M. Pattison), M.A. THE CHEMISTRY OF FIRE. The Elementary
+Principles of Chemistry. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Mundella (V.A.), M.A. See J.T. Dunn.
+
+Munro (R.), LL. D. See The Antiquary's Books.
+
+Naval Officer (A). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Neal (W.G.). See R.N. Hall.
+
+Newman (J.H.) and Others. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Nichols (J.B.B.). See Little Library.
+
+Nicklin (T.), M.A. EXAMINATION PAPERS IN THUCYDIDES. _Crown 8vo. 2s._
+
+Nimrod. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Northcote (James), R.A. THE CONVERSATIONS OF JAMES NORTHCOTE, R.A.,
+AND JAMES WARD. Edited by ERNEST FLETCHER. With many Portraits. _Demy
+8vo 10s. 6d._
+
+*Norway (A.H.), Author of 'Highways and Byways in Devon and Cornwall.'
+NAPLES. With 24 Coloured Illustrations by MAURICE GREIFFENHAGEN. A New
+Edition. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Novalis. THE DISCIPLES AT SAIS AND OTHER FRAGMENTS. Edited by Miss UNA
+BIRCH. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.). See Leaders of Religion.
+
+Oman (C.W.C.), M.A., Fellow of All Souls', Oxford. A HISTORY OF THE
+ART OF WAR. Vol. II.: The Middle Ages, from the Fourth to the
+Fourteenth Century. Illustrated, _Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Ottley (R.L.), D.D., Professor of Pastoral Theology at Oxford and
+Canon of Christ Church. See Handbooks of Theology and Leaders of
+Religion.
+
+Owen (Douglas), Barrister-at-Law, Secretary to the Alliance Marine and
+General Assurance Company. See Books on Business.
+
+Oxford (M.N.), of Guy's Hospital. A HANDBOOK OF NURSING. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Pakes (W.C.C.). THE SCIENCE OF HYGIENE. With numerous Illustrations.
+_Demy 8vo. 15s._
+
+Palmer (Frederick). WITH KUROKI IN MANCHURIA With many Illustrations.
+_Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Parker (Gilbert). A LOVER'S DIARY: SONGS IN SEQUENCE. _Fcap. 8vo. 5s._
+
+Parkinson (John). PARADISI IN SOLE PARADISUS TERRISTRIS, OR A GARDEN
+OF ALL SORTS OF PLEASANT FLOWERS. _Folio. L5, 5s. net._
+Also an Edition of 20 copies on Japanese vellum. _Ten Guineas net._
+
+Parmenter (John). HELIO-TROPES, OR NEW POSIES FOR SUNDIALS, 1625.
+Edited by PERCIVAL LANDON. _Quarto. 3s. 6d. net._
+
+Parmentier (Prof. Leon). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Pascal. See Library of Devotion.
+
+Paston (George). SOCIAL CARICATURES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+_Imperial Quarto. L2, 12s. 6d. net._ See also Little Books on Art and
+Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Paterson (W.R.) (Benjamin Swift). LIFE'S QUESTIONINGS. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d. net._
+
+Patterson (A.H.). NOTES OF AN EAST COAST NATURALIST. Illustrated in
+Colour by F. SOUTHGATE. _Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Peacock (N.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Pearce (E.H.), M.A. ANNALS OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. With many
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Peary (R.E.), Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society.
+NORTHWARD OVER THE GREAT ICE. With over 800 Illustrations, _2 vols.
+Royal 8vo. 32s. net._
+
+Peel (Sidney), late Fellow of Trinity College, Oxford, and Secretary
+to the Royal Commission on the Licensing Laws. PRACTICAL LICENSING
+REFORM. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d._
+
+Peters (J.P.), D.D. See Churchman's Library.
+
+Petrie (W.M. Flinders), D.C.L., LL.D., Professor of Egyptology at
+University College. A HISTORY OF EGYPT, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE
+PRESENT DAY. Fully Illustrated. _In six volumes. Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+VOL. I. PREHISTORIC TIMES TO XVITH DYNASTY. _Fifth Edition._
+VOL. II. THE XVIITH AND XVIIITH DYNASTIES. _Fourth Edition._
+VOL. III. XIXTH TO XXXTH DYNASTIES.
+VOL. IV. THE EGYPT OF THE PTOLEMIES. J.P. MAHAFFY, Litt.D.
+VOL. V. ROMAN EGYPT. J.G. MILNE, M.A.
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+RELIGION AND CONSCIENCE IN ANCIENT EGYPT. Fully Illustrated. _Crown
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+EGYPTIAN DECORATIVE ART. With 120 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Phillips (W.A.). See Oxford Biographies.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). MY DEVON YEAR. With 38 Illustrations by J. LEY
+PETHYBRIDGE. _Second and Cheaper Edition. Large Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pienaar (Philip). WITH STEYN AND DE WET. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+3s. 6d._
+
+Plautus. THE CAPTIVI. Edited, with an Introduction, Textual Notes, and
+a Commentary, by W.M. LINDSAY, Fellow of Jesus College, Oxford. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+Plowden-Wardlaw (J.T.), B.A., King's Coll. Camb. See School Examination
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+
+Pocock (Roger). A FRONTIERSMAN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Podmore (Frank). MODERN SPIRITUALISM. _Two Volumes. Demy 8vo. 21s. net._
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+
+Pollard (Alice). See Little Books on Art.
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+Pollock (David), M.I.N.A., Author of 'Modern Shipbuilding and the Men
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+
+Potter (M.C.), M.A., F.L.S. A TEXT-BOOK OF AGRICULTURAL BOTANY.
+Illustrated. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d._
+
+Potter Boy (An Old), WHEN I WAS A CHILD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pradeau (G.). A KEY TO THE TIME ALLUSIONS IN THE DIVINE COMEDY. With a
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+
+Prance (G.). See R. Wyon.
+
+Prescott (O.L.). ABOUT MUSIC, AND WHAT IT IS MADE OF. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d. net._
+
+Price (L.L.), M.A., Fellow of Oriel College, Oxon. A HISTORY OF
+ENGLISH POLITICAL ECONOMY. _Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Primrose (Deborah). A MODERN BOEOTIA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+PROTECTION AND INDUSTRY. By various Writers. _Crown 8vo. 1s. 6d. net._
+
+Pugin and Rowlandson. THE MICROCOSM OF LONDON, OR LONDON IN MINIATURE.
+With 104 Illustrations in colour. _In Three Volumes. Small 4to. L3,
+3s. net._
+
+'Q' (A.T. Quiller Couch). THE GOLDEN POMP. A Procession of English
+Lyrics. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Quevedo Villegas. See Miniature Library.
+
+G.R. and E.S. THE WOODHOUSE CORRESPONDENCE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rackham (R.B.), M.A. See Westminster Commentaries.
+
+Randolph (B.W.), D.D., Principal of the Theological College, Ely. See
+Library of Devotion.
+
+Rannie (D.W.), M.A. A STUDENT'S HISTORY OF SCOTLAND. _Cr. 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Rashdall (Hastings), M.A., Fellow and Tutor of New College, Oxford.
+DOCTRINE AND DEVELOPMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rawstorne (Lawrence, Esq.). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+A Real Paddy. See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Reason (W.), M.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+Redfern (W.B.), Author of 'Ancient Wood and Iron Work in Cambridge,'
+etc. ROYAL AND HISTORIC GLOVES AND ANCIENT SHOES. Profusely Illustrated
+in colour and half-tone. _Quarto, L2, 2s. net._
+
+Reynolds. See Little Galleries.
+
+Roberts (M.E.). See C.C. Channer.
+
+Robertson, (A.), D.D., Lord Bishop of Exeter. REGNUM DEI. The Bampton
+Lectures of 1901. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._
+
+Robertson (C. Grant), M.A., Fellow of All Souls' College, Oxford,
+Examiner in the Honour School of Modern History, Oxford, 1901-1904.
+SELECT STATUTES, CASES, AND CONSTITUTIONAL DOCUMENTS, 1660-1832. _Demy
+8vo. 10s. 6d. net._
+
+*Robertson (Sir G.S.), K.C.S.I. CHITRAL: The Story of a Minor Siege.
+With numerous Illustrations, Map and Plans. _Fourth Edition. Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Robinson (A.W.), M.A. See Churchman's Bible.
+
+Robinson (Cecilia). THE MINISTRY OF DEACONESSES. With an Introduction
+by the late Archbishop of Canterbury. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Rochefoucauld (La), See Little Library.
+
+Rodwell (G.), B.A. NEW TESTAMENT GREEK. A Course for Beginners. With a
+Preface by WALTER LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College. _Fcap. 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Roe (Fred). ANCIENT COFFERS AND CUPBOARDS: Their History and
+Description. With many Illustrations. _Quarto. L3, 3s. net._
+
+Rogers (A.G.L.), M.A., Editor of the last volume of 'The History of
+Agriculture and Prices in England.' See Books on Business.
+
+Romney. See Little Galleries.
+
+Roscoe (E.S.). ROBERT HARLEY, EARL OF OXFORD. Illustrated. _Demy 8vo.
+7s. 6d._ This is the only life of Harley in existence.
+See also The Little Guides.
+
+Rose (Edward). THE ROSE READER. With numerous Illustrations. _Crown
+8vo. 2s. 6d. Also in 4 Parts. Parts I. and II. 6d. each; Part III.
+8d.; Part IV. 10d._
+
+Rubie (A.E.). D.D., Head Master of College, Eltham. See Junior School
+Books.
+
+Russell (W. Clark). THE LIFE OF ADMIRAL LORD COLLINGWOOD. With
+Illustrations by F. BRANGWYN. _Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+St. Anselm. See Library of Devotion.
+
+St. Augustine. See Library of Devotion.
+
+'Saki' (H. Munro). REGINALD. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Sales (St. Francis de). See Library of Devotion.
+
+Salmon (A.L.). A POPULAR GUIDE TO DEVON. _Medium 8vo. 6d. net._ See
+also The Little Guides.
+
+Sargeaunt (J.), M.A. ANNALS OF WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. With numerous
+Illustrations. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d._
+
+Sathas (C.). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Schmitt (John). See Byzantine Texts.
+
+Scott, (A.M.) WINSTON SPENCER CHURCHILL. With Portraits and
+Illustrations. _Crown_ 8vo. 3s. 6d.
+
+Seeley (H.G.) F.R.S. DRAGONS OF THE AIR. With many Illustrations. _Cr.
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Selincourt (E. de), M.A. THE POEMS OF JOHN KEATS. With an Introduction
+and Notes, and a Portrait in Photogravure. _Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net._
+
+Sells (V.P.), M.A. THE MECHANICS OF DAILY LIFE. Illustrated. _Cr. 8vo.
+2s. 6d._
+
+Selous (Edmund). TOMMY SMITH'S ANIMALS. Illustrated by G.W. ORD.
+_Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Settle (J.H.). ANECDOTES OF SOLDIERS. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net._
+A Colonial Edition is also published.
+
+Shakespeare (William).
+THE FOUR FOLIOS, 1623; 1632; 1664; 1685. Each _Four Guineas net_, or a
+complete set. _Twelve Guineas net._
+
+The Arden Shakespeare. _
+Demy 8vo. 2s. 6d. net each volume_. General Editor, W.J. CRAIG. An
+Edition of Shakespeare in single Plays. Edited with a full Introduction,
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+HAMLET. Edited by EDWARD DOWDEN, Litt.D. ROMEO AND
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+CRAIG.
+JULIUS CAESAR. Edited by M. MACMILLAN, M.A. THE TEMPEST. Edited by
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+OTHELLO. Edited by H.C. HART.
+TITUS ANDRONICUS. Edited by H.B. BAILDON.
+CYMBELINE. Edited by EDWARD DOWDEN.
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+
+The Little Quarto Shakespeare. Edited by W.J. CRAIG. With Introductions
+and Notes. _Pott 16mo. In 40 Volumes. Leather, price 1s. net each
+volume._ See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Sharp (A.). VICTORIAN POETS. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Sharp (Mrs. E.A.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Shedlock (J.S.). THE PIANOFORTE SONATA: Its Origin and Development.
+_Crown 8vo. 5s._
+
+Shelley (Percy B.). ADONAIS; an Elegy on the death of John Keats,
+Author of 'Endymion,' etc. Pisa. From the types of Didot, 1821. _2s.
+net._ See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Sherwell (Arthur). M.A. See Social Questions Series.
+
+*Shipley (Mary E.). AN ENGLISH CHURCH HISTORY FOR CHILDREN. With a
+Preface by the Bishop of Gibraltar, late Professor of Ecclesiastical
+History at King's College, London. With Maps and Illustrations. Part
+I. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+Sichel (Walter). DISRAELI: A Study in Personality and Ideas. With 3
+Portraits. _Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net._ A Colonial Edition is also
+published. See also Oxford Biographies.
+
+Sime (J.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Simonson (G.A). FRANCESCO GUARDI. With 41 Plates. _Royal folio. L2. 2s.
+net._
+
+Sketchley (R.E.D.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Skipton (H.P.K.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Sladen (Douglas). SICILY. With over 200 Illustrations. _Crown 8vo. 5s.
+net._
+
+Small (Evan), M.A. THE EARTH. An Introduction to Physiography.
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d._
+
+Smallwood, (M.O.). See Little Books on Art.
+
+Smedley (F.E). See Illustrated Pocket Library.
+
+Smith (Adam). THE WEALTH OF NATIONS. Edited with an Introduction and
+numerous Notes by EDWIN CANNAN, M.A. _Two volumes. Demy 8vo. 21s.
+net._ See also Methuen's Universal Library.
+
+Smith (Horace and James). See Little Library.
+
+Snell (P.J.). A BOOK OF EXMOOR. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sophocles. See Classical Translations.
+
+Sornet (L.A.), Modern Language Master at King Edward School, Birmingham.
+See Junior School Books.
+
+South (Wilton E.), M.A. See Junior School Books.
+
+Southey (R.) ENGLISH SEAMEN. Edited, with an Introduction, by DAVID
+HANNAY.
+Vol. 1. (Howard, Clifford, Hawkins, Drake, Cavendish). _Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+Vol. II. (Richard Hawkins, Grenville, Essex, and Raleigh). _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Spence (C.H.), M.A., Clifton College. See School Examination Series.
+
+Spooner (W.A.), M.A., Warden of New College, Oxford. See Leaders of
+Religion.
+
+Stanbridge (J.W.), B.D., late Canon of York, and sometime Fellow of
+St. John's College, Oxford. See Library of Devotion.
+
+'Stancliffe.' GOLF DO'S AND DONT'S. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 1s._
+
+Stedman (A.M.M.), M.A.
+INITIA LATINA: Easy Lessons on Elementary Accidence. _Seventh Edition.
+Fcap. 8vo. 1s._
+FIRST LATIN LESSONS. _Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s._
+FIRST LATIN READER. With Notes adapted to the Shorter Latin Primer and
+Vocabulary. _Sixth Edition revised. 18mo. 1s. 6d._
+EASY SELECTIONS FROM CAESAR. The Helvetian War. _Second Edition. 18mo. 1s._
+EASY SELECTIONS FROM LIVY. Part I. The Kings of Rome. _18mo. Second
+Edition, 1s. 6d._
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+1s. 6d._
+EXEMPLA LATINA. First Exercises in Latin Accidence. With Vocabulary.
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+PRIMER. With Vocabulary. _Ninth and Cheaper Edition, rewritten. Crown
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+Stephenson (C.), of the Technical College, Bradford, and Suddards (F.)
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+A sumptuous series of 20 books on art, written by experts for
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+MEZZOTINTS. By Cyril Davenport. With 40 Plates in Photogravure.
+
+PORCELAIN. By Edward Dillon. With 19 Plates in Colour, 20 in
+Collotype, and 5 in Photogravure.
+
+*MINIATURES. By Dudley Heath. With 9 Plates in Colour, 15 in
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+*IVORIES. By A. Maskell. With 80 Plates in Collotype and Photogravure.
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+With Introductions and (where necessary) Notes. _Small Pott 8vo,
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+THE CONFESSIONS OF ST. AUGUSTINE. Edited by C. Bigg, D.D. _Third
+Edition._
+
+THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. Edited by Walter Lock, D.D. _Second Edition._
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+THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. Edited by C. Bigg, D.D. _Fourth Edition._
+
+A BOOK OF DEVOTIONS. Edited by J.W. Stanbridge. B.D. _Second Edition._
+
+LYRA INNOCENTIUM. Edited by Walter Lock, D.D.
+
+A SERIOUS CALL TO A DEVOUT AND HOLY LIFE. Edited by C. Bigg, D.D.
+_Second Edition._
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+THE TEMPLE. Edited by E.C.S. Gibson, D.D.
+
+A GUIDE TO ETERNITY. Edited by J.W. Stanbridge, B,D.
+
+THE PSALMS OF DAVID. Edited by B.W. Randolph, D.D.
+
+LYRA APOSTOLICA. Edited by Canon Scott Holland and Canon H.C.
+Beeching, M.A.
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+THE INNER WAY. By J. Tauler Edited by A.W. Hutton, M.A.
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+THE THOUGHTS OF PASCAL. Edited by C.S. Jerram, M.A.
+
+ON THE LOVE OF GOD. By St. Francis de Sales. Edited by W.J.
+Knox-Little, M.A.
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+A MANUAL OK CONSOLATION FROM THE SAINTS AND FATHERS. Edited by J.H.
+Burn, B.D.
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+THE SONG or SONGS. Edited by B. Blaxland, M.A.
+
+THE DEVOTIONS OF ST. ANSELM. Edited by C.C.J. Webb, M.A.
+
+GRACE ABOUNDING. By John Bunyan. Edited by S.C. Freer, M.A.
+
+BISHOP WILSON'S SACRA PRIVATA. Edited by A.E. Burn, B.D.
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+LYRA SACRA: A Book of Sacred Verse. Edited by H.C. Beeching, M.A.,
+Canon of Westminster.
+
+A DAY BOOK FROM THE SAINTS AND FATHERS. Edited by J.H. Burn, B.D.
+
+HEAVENLY WISDOM. A Selection from the English Mystics. Edited by E.C.
+Gregory.
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+LIGHT, LIFE, and LOVE. A Selection from the German Mystics. Edited by
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+Illustrated Pocket Library of Plain and Coloured Books, The
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+_Fcap 8vo. 3s. 6d. net each volume_.
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+OLD COLOURED BOOKS. By George Paston. With 16 Coloured Plates. _Fcap.
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+
+THE LIFE AND DEATH OF JOHN MYTTON, ESQ. By Nimrod. With 18 Coloured
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
+
+THE LIFE OF A SPORTSMAN. By Nimrod. With 35 Coloured Plates by Henry
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+
+HANDLEY CROSS. By R.S. SURTEES. With 17 Coloured Plates and 90
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+
+MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. By R.S. Surtees. With 13 Coloured Plates
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+
+JORROCKS' JAUNTS AND JOLLITIES. By R.S. Surtees. With 15 Coloured
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
+This volume is reprinted from the extremely rare and costly edition of
+1843, which contains Alken's very fine illustrations instead of the
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+
+ASK MAMMA. By R.S. Surtees. With 13 Coloured Plates and 70 Woodcuts in
+the Text by John Leech. _3s. 6d. net._
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
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+THE ANALYSIS OF THE HUNTING FIELD. By R.S. Surtees. With 7 Coloured
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+
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+
+THE TOUR OF DOCTOR SYNTAX IN SEARCH OF CONSOLATION. By William Combe.
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
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+THE THIRD TOUR OF DOCTOR SYNTAX IN SEARCH OF A WIFE. By William Combe.
+With 24 Coloured Plates by T. Rowlandson. _3s. 6d. net._
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
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+THE HISTORY OF JOHNNY QUAE GENUS: the Little Foundling of the late Dr.
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+Rowlandson. _3s. 6d. net._
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
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+This book contains 76 Coloured Plates.
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+THE DANCE OF LIFE: A Poem. By the Author of 'Doctor Syntax.'
+Illustrated with 26 Coloured Engravings by T. Rowlandson. _3s. 6d.
+net._
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
+
+LIFE IN LONDON: or, the Day and Night Scenes of Jerry Hawthorn, Esq.,
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+Coloured Plates by I.R. and G. Cruikshank. With numerous Designs on
+Wood. _3s. 6d. net._
+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
+
+*REAL LIFE IN LONDON: or, the Rambles and Adventures of Bob Tallyho,
+Esq., and his Cousin, The Hon. Tom Dashall. By an Amateur (Pierce
+Egan). With 31 Coloured Plates by Alken and Rowlandson, etc. _Two
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+
+THE LIFE OF AN ACTOR. By Pierce Egan. With 27 Coloured Plates by
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
+A reproduction of a very rare book.
+
+THE MILITARY ADVENTURES OF JOHNNY NEWCOME. By an Officer. With 15
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+
+THE NATIONAL SPORTS OF GREAT BRITAIN. With Descriptions and 51
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+Also a limited edition on large Japanese paper. _30s. net._
+This book is completely different from the large folio edition of
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+
+THE ADVENTURES OF A POST CAPTAIN. By A Naval Officer. With 24 Coloured
+Plates by Mr. Williams. _3s. 6d. net._
+
+GAMONIA: or, the Art of Preserving Game; and an Improved Method of
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+
+AN ACADEMY FOR GROWN HORSEMEN: Containing the completest Instructions
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+Illustrated with 27 Coloured Plates, and adorned with a Portrait of
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+
+REAL LIFE IN IRELAND, or, the Day and Night Scenes of Brian Boru,
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+
+THE ADVENTURES OF JOHNNY NEWCOME IN THE NAVY. By Alfred Burton. With
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+
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+
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+PLAIN BOOKS
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+THE GRAVE: A Poem. By Robert Blair. Illustrated by 12 Etchings
+executed by Louis Schiavonetti from the original Inventions of William
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+Phillips, R.A. _3s. 6d. net._
+
+The illustrations are reproduced in photogravure. Also a limited
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+
+ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE BOOK OF JOB. Invented and engraved by William
+Blake, _3s. 6d. net._ These famous Illustrations--21 in number--are
+reproduced in photogravure. Also a limited edition on large Japanese
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+
+AESOP'S FABLES. With 380 woodcuts by Thomas Bewick. _3s. 6d. net._
+
+WINDSOR CASTLE. By W. Harrison Ainsworth. With 22 Plates and 87
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+
+THE TOWER OF LONDON. By W. Harrison Ainsworth. With 40 Plates and 58
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+
+FRANK FAIRLEGH. By F.E. Smedley. With 30 Plates by George Cruikshank.
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+
+HANDY ANDY. By Samuel Lover. With 24 Illustrations by the Author. _3s.
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+
+THE COMPLEAT ANGLER. By Izaak Walton and Charles Cotton. With 14
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+This volume is reproduced from the beautiful edition of John Major of
+1824.
+
+THE PICKWICK PAPERS. By Charles Dickens. With the 43 Illustrations by
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+
+Junior Examination Series
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+Edited by A.M.M. STEDMAN, M.A. _Fcap. 8vo. 1s._
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+JUNIOR FRENCH EXAMINATION PAPERS. By F. Jacob, M.A.
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+
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+A JUNIOR FRENCH GRAMMAR. By L.A. Sornet and M.J. Acatos. _Crown 8vo.
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+*THE GOSPEL ACCORDING TO ST. LUKE. With an Introduction and Notes by
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+JOHN KEBLE. By Walter Lock, D.D.
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+THOMAS CHALMERS. By Mrs. Oliphant.
+
+LANCELOT ANDREWES. By R.L. Ottley, D.D. _Second Edition._
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+AUGUSTINE OF CANTERBURY. By E.L. Cutts, D.D.
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+WILLIAM LAUD. By W.H. Hutton, M.A. _Second Edition._
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+JOHN KNOX. By F. MacCunn. _Second Edition._
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+JOHN HOWE. By R.F. Horton, D.D.
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+BISHOP KEN. By F.A. Clarke, M.A.
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+GEORGE FOX, THE QUAKER. By T. Hodgkin, D.C.L.
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+
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+
+BISHOP BUTLER. By W.A. Spooner, M.A.
+
+
+Little Blue Books, The
+
+General Editor, E.V. LUCAS.
+
+_Illustrated. Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d._
+
+A series of books for children. The aim of the editor is to get
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+
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+
+2. THE BEECHNUT BOOK. By Jacob Abbott. Edited by E.V. Lucas.
+
+3. THE AIR GUN. By T. Hilbert.
+
+4. A SCHOOL YEAR. By Netta Syrett.
+
+5. THE PEELES AT THE CAPITAL. By Roger Ashton.
+
+6. THE TREASURE OF PRINCEGATE PRIORY. By T. Cobb.
+
+7. Mrs. BARBERRY'S GENERAL SHOP. By Roger Ashton.
+
+8. A BOOK OF BAD CHILDREN. By W.T. Webb.
+
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+
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+
+GREEK ART. H.B. Walters. _Second Ed._
+
+BOOKPLATES. E. Almack.
+
+REYNOLDS. J. Sime.
+
+ROMNEY. George Paston.
+
+WATTS. Miss R.E.D. Sketchley.
+
+LEIGHTON. Alice Corkran.
+
+VELASQUEZ. Wilfrid Wilberforce and A.R. Gilbert.
+
+GREUZE AND BOUCHER. Eliza F. Pollard.
+
+VANDYCK. M.G. SMALLWOOD.
+
+TURNER. F. Tyrell-Gill.
+
+DUeRER. Jessie Allen.
+
+HOPPNER. H.P.K. Skipton.
+
+HOLBEIN. Mrs. G. Fortescue.
+
+BURNE-JONES. Fortunee de Lisle.
+
+REMBRANDT. Mrs. E.A. Sharp.
+
+COROT. Alice Pollard and Ethel Birnstingl.
+
+MILLET. Netta Peacock.
+
+*RAPHAEL. A.R. DRYHURST.
+
+*ILLUMINATED MSS. J.W. Bradley.
+
+
+Little Galleries, The
+
+_Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d. net._
+
+A series of little books containing examples of the best work of the
+great painters. Each volume contains 20 plates in photogravure,
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+whom the book is devoted.
+
+A LITTLE GALLERY OF REYNOLDS.
+
+A LITTLE GALLERY OF ROMNEY.
+
+A LITTLE GALLERY OF HOPPNER.
+
+A LITTLE GALLERY OF MILLAIS.
+
+A LITTLE GALLERY OF ENGLISH POETS.
+
+
+Little Guides, The
+
+_Small Pott 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. net.; leather, 3s. 6d. net._
+
+OXFORD AND ITS COLLEGES. By J. Wills, M.A. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+_Fourth Edition._
+
+CAMBRIDGE AND ITS COLLEGES. By A. Hamilton Thompson. _Second Edition._
+Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+THE MALVERN COUNTRY. By B.C.A. Windle, D.Sc, F.R.S. Illustrated by
+E.H. New.
+
+SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY. By B.C.A. Windle, D.Sc., F.R.S. Illustrated by
+E.H. New. _Second Edition._
+
+SUSSEX. By F.G. Brabant, M.A. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+WESTMINSTER ABBEY. By G.E. Troutbeck. Illustrated by F.D.Bedford.
+
+NORFOLK. By W.A. Dutt. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.
+
+CORNWALL. By A.L. Salmon. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.
+
+BRITTANY. By S. Baring-Gould. Illustrated by J. Wylie.
+
+HERTFORDSHIRE. By H.W. Tompkins, F.R.H.S. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+THE ENGLISH LAKES. By F.G. Brabant, M.A. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+KENT. By G. Clinch. Illustrated by F.D. Bedford.
+
+ROME By C.G. Ellaby. Illustrated by B.C. Boulter.
+
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT. By G. Clinch. Illustrated by F.D. Bedford.
+
+SURREY. By F.A.H. Lambert. Illustrated by E.H. New.
+
+BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. By E.S. Roscoe. Illustrated by F.D. Bedford.
+
+SUFFOLK. By W.A. Dutt. Illustrated by J. Wylie.
+
+DERBYSHIRE. By J.C. COX, LL.D., F.S.A. Illustrated by J.C. Wall.
+
+THE NORTH RIDING OF YORKSHIRE. By J.E. Morris. Illustrated by R.J.S.
+Bertram.
+
+HAMPSHIRE. By J.C. Cox. Illustrated by M.E. Purser.
+
+SICILY. By F.H. Jackson. With many Illustrations by the Author.
+
+*DORSET. By Frank R. Heath. Illustrated.
+
+*CHESHIRE. By W.M. Gallichan. Illustrated by Elizabeth Hartley.
+
+
+Little Library, The
+
+With Introductions, Notes, and Photogravure Frontispieces.
+
+_Small Pott 8vo. Each Volume, cloth, 1s. 6d. net; leather, 2s. 6d.
+net._
+
+A series of small books under the above title, containing some of the
+famous works in English and other literatures, in the domains of
+fiction, poetry, and belles lettres. The series also contains volumes
+of selections in prose and verse.
+
+The books are edited with the most sympathetic and scholarly care.
+Each one contains an introduction which gives (1) a short biography of
+the author; (2) a critical estimate of the book. Where they are
+necessary, short notes are added at the foot of the page.
+
+Each volume has a photogravure frontispiece, and the books are
+produced with great care.
+
+ENGLISH LYRICS, A LITTLE BOOK OF. Anon.
+
+PRIDE AND PREJUDICE. By Jane Austen. Edited by E.V. Lucas. _Two
+Volumes._
+
+NORTHANGER ABBEY. By Jane Austen. Edited by E.V. Lucas.
+
+THE ESSAYS OF LORD BACON. Edited by Edward Wright.
+
+THE INGOLSBY LEGENDS. By R.H. Barham. Edited by J.B. Atlay. _Two
+Volumes._
+
+A LITTLE BOOK OF ENGLISH PROSE. Edited by Mrs. P.A. Barnett.
+
+THE HISTORY OF THE CALIPH VATHEK. By William Beckford. Edited by E.
+Denison Ross.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM WILLIAM BLAKE. Edited by M. Perugini.
+
+LAVENGRO. By George Borrow. Edited by F. Hindes Groome. _Two Volumes._
+
+THE ROMANY RYE. By George Borrow. Edited by John Sampson.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM THE EARLY POEMS OF ROBERT BROWNING. Edited by W. Hall
+Griffin, M.A.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM THE ANTI-JACOBIN; with George Canning's additional
+Poems. Edited by Lloyd Sanders.
+
+THE ESSAYS OF ABRAHAM COWLEY. Edited by H.C. Minchin.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM GEORGE CRABBE, Edited by A.C. Deane.
+
+JOHN HALIFAX GENTLEMAN. By Mrs. Craik. Edited by Annie Matheson. _Two
+Volumes._
+
+THE ENGLISH POEMS OF RICHARD CRAWSHAW. Edited by Edward Hutton.
+
+THE INFERNO OF DANTE. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget
+Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt.
+
+THE PURGATORIO OF DANTE. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget
+Toynbee, M.A. D.Litt.
+
+THE PARADISO OF DANTE. Translated by H.F. Cary. Edited by Paget
+Toynbee, M.A., D.Litt.
+
+SELECTIONS FROM THE POEMS OF GEORGE DARLEY. Edited by R.A.
+Streatfeild.
+
+A LITTLE BOOK OF LIGHT VERSE. Edited by A.C. Deane.
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+MARRIAGE. By Susan Ferrier. Edited by Miss Goodrich Freer and Lord
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+THE INHERITANCE. By Susan Ferrier. Edited by Miss Goodrich Freer and
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+CRANFORD. By Mrs. Gaskell. Edited by E.V. Lucas. _Second Edition._
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+THE SCARLET LETTER. By Nathaniel Hawthorne. Edited by Percy Dearmer.
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+A LITTLE BOOK OF SCOTTISH VERSE. Edited by T.F. Henderson.
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+POEMS. By John Keats. With an Introduction by L. Binyon and Notes by
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+EOTHEN. By A.W. Kinglake. With an Introduction and Notes. _Second
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+ELIA, AND THE LAST ESSAYS OF ELIA. By Charles Lamb. Edited by E.V.
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+LONDON LYRICS. By F. Locker. Edited by A.D. Godley, M.A. A reprint of
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+SELECTIONS FROM LONGFELLOW. Edited by L.M. Faithfull.
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+THE POEMS OF ANDREW MARVELL. Edited by E. Wright.
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+THE MINOR POEMS OF JOHN MILTON. Edited by H.C. BEECHING, M.A.
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+MANSIE WAUCH. By D.M. Moir. Edited by T.F. Henderson.
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+A LITTLE BOOK OF ENGLISH SONNETS. Edited by J.B.B. Nichols.
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+THE MAXIMS OF LA ROCHEFOUCAULD. Translated by Dean Stanhope. Edited by
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+REJECTED ADDRESSES. By Horace and James Smith. Edited by A.D. Godley,
+M.A.
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+A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY. By Laurence Sterne. Edited by H.W. Paul.
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+THE EARLY POEMS OF ALFRED, LORD TENNYSON. Edited by J. Churton
+Collins, M.A.
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+IN MEMORIAM. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by H.C. Beeching, M.A.
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+THE PRINCESS. By Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Edited by Elizabeth
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+THE COMPLEAT ANGLER. By Izaak Walton. Edited by J. Buchan.
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+
+These are the early Books, all of which are in the Press.
+
+THE WORKS OF WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE. In 10 volumes.
+
+VOL. I.--The Tempest; The Two Gentlemen of Verona; The Merry Wives of
+Windsor; Measure for Measure; The Comedy of Errors.
+
+VOL. II.--Much Ado About Nothing; Love's Labour's Lost; A Midsummer
+Nights' Dream; The Merchant of Venice; As You Like It.
+
+VOL. III.--The Taming of the Shrew; All's Well that Ends Well; Twelfth
+Night; The Winter's Tale.
+
+THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. By John Bunyan.
+
+THE NOVELS OF JANE AUSTEN. In 5 volumes. VOL. I.--Sense and
+Sensibility.
+
+THE ENGLISH WORKS OF FRANCIS BACON, LORD VERULAM. Vol. I.--Essays and
+Counsels and the New Atlantis.
+
+THE POEMS AND PLAYS OF OLIVER GOLDSMITH.
+
+ON THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. By Thomas a Kempis.
+
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+Altered; Every Man in His Humour; Every Man out of His Humour.
+
+THE PROSE WORKS OF JOHN MILTON.
+  VOL. I.--Eikonoklastes and The Tenure of Kings and Magistrates.
+
+SELECT WORKS OF EDMUND BURKE.
+  Vol. I.--Reflections on the French Revolution
+  Vol. II.--Speeches on America.
+
+THE WORKS OF HENRY FIELDING.
+  Vol. I.--Tom Jones. (Double Volume.)
+  Vol. II.--Amelia. (Double Volume.)
+
+THE POEMS OF THOMAS CHATTERTON. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Miscellaneous Poems.
+  Vol. II.--The Rowley Poems.
+
+THE MEDITATIONS OF MARCUS AURELIUS. Translated by R. Graves.
+
+THE HISTORY OF THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. By Edward
+Gibbon. In 7 volumes. The Notes have been revised by J.B. Bury, Litt.D.
+
+THE PLAYS OF CHRISTOPHER MARLOWE.
+  Vol. I.--Tamburlane the Great; The Tragical History of Doctor Faustus.
+  Vol. II.--The Jew of Malta: Edward the Second; The Massacre at Paris;
+  The Tragedy of Dido.
+
+THE NATURAL HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF SELBORNE. By Gilbert White.
+
+THE COMPLETE ANGLER. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--By Izaak Walton.
+  Vol. II.--Part 2, by Cotton, and Part 3 by Venables.
+
+THE POEMS OF PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY. In 4 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Alastor; The Daemon of the World; The Revolt of Islam, etc.
+
+THE WORKS OF SIR THOMAS BROWNE. In 6 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Religio Medici and Urn Burial.
+
+THE POEMS OF JOHN MILTON. In 2 volumes.
+  Vol. I.--Paradise Lost.
+  Vol. II.--Miscellaneous Poems and Paradise Regained.
+
+HUMPHREY CLINKER. By T.G. Smollett.
+
+SELECT WORKS OF SIR THOMAS MORE.
+  Vol. I.--Utopia and Poems.
+
+THE ANALOGY OF RELIGION, NATURAL AND REVEALED. By Joseph Butler, D.D.
+
+ON HUMAN UNDERSTANDING. By John Locke. In 3 volumes.
+
+THE POEMS OF JOHN KEATS. In 2 volumes.
+
+THE DIVINE COMEDY OF DANTE. The Italian Text edited by Paget Toynbee,
+M.A., D.Litt. (A Double Volume.)
+
+
+Westminster Commentaries, The
+
+General Editor, WALTER LOCK, D.D., Warden of Keble College,
+
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+
+The object of each commentary is primarily exegetical, to interpret the
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+
+THE BOOK OF GENESIS. Edited with Introduction and Notes by S.R. Driver,
+D.D. _Fourth Edition Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE BOOK OF JOB. Edited by E.C.S. Gibson. D.D. _Second Edition. Demy
+8vo. 6s._
+
+THE ACTS OF THE APOSTLES. Edited by R.B. Rackham, M.A. _Demy 8vo. Second
+and Cheaper Edition. 10s. 6d._
+
+THE FIRST EPISTLE OF PAUL THE APOSTLE TO THE CORINTHIANS. Edited by H.L.
+Goudge, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+THE EPISTLE OF ST. JAMES. Edited with Introduction and Notes by R.J.
+Knowling, M.A. _Demy 8vo. 6s._
+
+
+
+
+PART II.--FICTION
+
+Marie Corelli's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS. _Twenty-Fifth Edition._
+
+VENDETTA. _Twenty-First Edition._
+
+THELMA. _Thirty-Second Edition._
+
+ARDATH: THE STORY OF A DEAD SELF. _Fifteenth Edition._
+
+THE SOUL OF LILITH. _Twelfth Edition._
+
+WORMWOOD. _Fourteenth Edition._
+
+BARABBAS: A DREAM OF THE WORLD'S TRAGEDY. _Fortieth Edition._
+'The tender reverence of the treatment and the imaginative beauty of the
+writing have reconciled us to the daring of the conception. This "Dream
+of the World's Tragedy" is a lofty and not inadequate paraphrase of the
+supreme climax of the inspired narrative.'--_Dublin Review._
+
+THE SORROWS OF SATAN. _Forty-Eighth Edition._
+'A very powerful piece of work.... The conception is magnificent, and is
+likely to win an abiding place within the memory of man.... The author
+has immense command of language, and a limitless audacity.... This
+interesting and remarkable romance will live long after much of the
+ephemeral literature of the day is forgotten.... A literary phenomenon
+... novel, and even sublime.'--W.T. STEAD in the _Review of Reviews._
+
+THE MASTER CHRISTIAN. _[165th Thousand._
+'It cannot be denied that "The Master Christian" is a powerful book;
+that it is one likely to raise uncomfortable questions in all but the
+most self-satisfied readers, and that it strikes at the root of the
+failure of the Churches--the decay of faith--in a manner which shows the
+inevitable disaster heaping up ... The good Cardinal Bonpre is a
+beautiful figure, fit to stand beside the good Bishop in "Les
+Miserables." It is a book with a serious purpose expressed with absolute
+unconventionality and passion ... And this is to say it is a book worth
+reading.'--_Examiner._
+
+TEMPORAL POWER: A STUDY IN SUPREMACY. _[150th Thousand._
+'It is impossible to read such a work as "Temporal Power" without
+becoming convinced that the story is intended to convey certain
+criticisms on the ways of the world and certain suggestions for the
+betterment of humanity.... If the chief intention of the book was to
+hold the mirror up to shams, injustice, dishonesty, cruelty, and neglect
+of conscience, nothing but praise can be given to that
+intention.'--_Morning Post._
+
+GOD'S GOOD MAN: A SIMPLE LOVE STORY. _Sixth Edition_,
+
+
+Anthony Hope's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE GOD IN THE CAR. _Tenth Edition._
+'A very remarkable book, deserving of critical analysis impossible
+within our limit; brilliant, but not superficial; well considered, but
+not elaborated; constructed with the proverbial art that conceals, but
+yet allows itself to be enjoyed by readers to whom fine literary method
+is a keen pleasure.--_The World._
+
+A CHANGE OF AIR, _Sixth Edition._
+'A graceful, vivacious comedy, true to human nature. The characters are
+traced with a masterly hand.'--_Times._
+
+A MAN OF MARK. _Fifth Edition._
+'Of all Mr. Hope's books, "A Man of Mark" is the one which best compares
+with "The Prisoner of Zenda." '--_National Observer._
+
+THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO. _Fifth Edition._
+'It is a perfectly enchanting story of love and chivalry, and pure
+romance. The Count is the most constant, desperate, and modest and
+tender of lovers, a peerless gentleman, an intrepid fighter, a faithful
+friend, and a magnanimous foe.'--_Guardian._
+
+PHROSO. Illustrated by H.R. MILLAR. _Sixth Edition._
+'The tale is thoroughly fresh, quick with vitality, stirring the
+blood.'--_St. James's Gazette._
+
+SIMON DALE. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition._
+'There is searching analysis of human nature, with a most ingeniously
+constructed plot. Mr. Hope has drawn the contrasts of his women with
+marvellous subtlety and delicacy.'--_Times_.
+
+THE KING'S MIRROR. _Fourth Edition._
+'In elegance, delicacy, and tact it ranks with the best of his novels,
+while in the wide range of its portraiture and the subtlety of its
+analysis it surpasses all his earlier ventures.'--_Spectator._
+
+QUISANTE. _Fourth Edition._
+'The book is notable for a very high literary quality, and an impress of
+power and mastery on every page.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.
+
+
+W.W. Jacobs' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. each._
+
+MANY CARGOES. _Twenty-Seventh Edition._
+
+SEA URCHINS. _Eleventh Edition._
+
+A MASTER OF CRAFT. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition._
+'Can be unreservedly recommended to all who have not lost their appetite
+for wholesome laughter.'--_Spectator._
+'The best humorous book published for many a day.'--_Black and White._
+
+LIGHT FREIGHTS. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+'His wit and humour are perfectly irresistible. Mr. Jacobs writes of
+skippers, and mates, and seamen, and his crew are the jolliest lot that
+ever sailed.'--_Daily News._
+'Laughter in every page.'--_Daily Mail_.
+
+
+Lucas Malet's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+COLONEL ENDERBY' WIFE. _Third Edition._
+
+A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION. _New Edition._
+
+LITTLE PETER. _Second Edition. 3s. 6d._
+
+THE WAGES OF SIN. _Fourteenth Edition._
+
+THE CARISSIMA. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE GATELESS BARRIER. _Fourth Edition._
+'In "The Gateless Barrier" it is at once evident that, whilst Lucas
+Malet has preserved her birthright of originality, the artistry, the
+actual writing, is above even the high level of the books that were born
+before.'--_Westminster Gazette._
+
+THE HISTORY OF SIR RICHARD CALMADY. _Seventh Edition._ A Limited
+Edition in Two Volumes. _Crown 8vo. 12s._
+'A picture finely and amply conceived. In the strength and insight in
+which the story has been conceived, in the wealth of fancy and
+reflection bestowed upon its execution, and in the moving sincerity of
+its pathos throughout, "Sir Richard Calmady" must rank as the great
+novel of a great writer.'--_Literature._
+'The ripest fruit of Lucas Malet's genius. A picture of maternal love
+by turns tender and terrible.'--_Spectator._
+'A remarkably fine book, with a noble motive and a sound
+conclusion.'--_Pilot_.
+
+
+Gilbert Parker's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+PIERRE AND HIS PEOPLE. _Fifth Edition._
+'Stories happily conceived and finely executed. There is strength and
+genius in Mr. Parker's style.'--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+MRS. FALCHION. _Fifth Edition._
+'A splendid study of character.'--_Athenaeum._
+
+THE TRANSLATION OF A SAVAGE. _Second Edition._
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD. Illustrated. _Eighth Edition._
+'A rousing and dramatic tale. A book like this is a joy
+inexpressible.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC: The Story of a Lost Napoleon. _Fifth
+Edition._
+'Here we find romance--real, breathing, living romance. The character of
+Valmond is drawn unerringly.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+AN ADVENTURER OF THE NORTH: The Last Adventures of 'Pretty Pierre.'
+_Third Edition._
+'The present book is full of fine and moving stories of the great
+North.'--_Glasgow Herald._
+
+THE SEATS OF THE MIGHTY. Illustrated. _Thirteenth Edition._
+'Mr. Parker has produced a really fine historical novel.'--_Athenaeum._
+'A great book.'--_Black and White._
+
+THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG: a Romance of Two Kingdoms. Illustrated.
+_Fourth Edition._
+'Nothing more vigorous or more human has come from Mr. Gilbert Parker
+than this novel.'--_Literature._
+
+THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. _Second Edition. 3s. 6d._
+'Unforced pathos, and a deeper knowledge of human nature than he has
+displayed before.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+
+Arthur Morrison's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+TALES OF MEAN STREETS. _Sixth Edition._
+'A great book. The author's method is amazingly effective, and produces
+a thrilling sense of reality. The writer lays upon us a master hand. The
+book is simply appalling and irresistible in its interest. It is
+humorous also; without humour it would not make the mark it is certain
+to make.'--_World._
+
+A CHILD OF THE JAGO. _Fourth Edition._
+'The book is a masterpiece.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+TO LONDON TOWN. _Second Edition._
+'This is the new Mr. Arthur Morrison, gracious and tender, sympathetic
+and human.'--_Daily Telegraph._
+
+CUNNING MURRELL.
+'Admirable ... Delightful humorous relief ... a most artistic and
+satisfactory achievement.'--_Spectator._
+
+THE HOLE IN THE WALL. _Third Edition._
+'A masterpiece of artistic realism. It has a finality of touch that only
+a master may command.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+'An absolute masterpiece, which any novelist might be proud to
+claim.'--_Graphic_.
+'"The Hole in the Wall" is a masterly piece of work. His characters
+are drawn with amazing skill. Extraordinary power.'--_Daily
+Telegraph._
+
+
+Eden Phillpotts' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+LYING PROPHETS.
+
+CHILDREN OF THE MIST. _Fifth Edition._
+
+THE HUMAN BOY. With a Frontispiece. _Fourth Edition._
+'Mr. Phillpotts knows exactly what school-boys do, and can lay bare
+their inmost thoughts; likewise he shows an all-pervading sense of
+humour.'--_Academy._
+
+SONS OF THE MORNING. _Second Edition._
+'A book of strange power and fascination.'--_Morning Post._
+
+THE STRIKING HOURS. _Second Edition._
+'Tragedy and comedy, pathos and humour, are blended to a nicety in this
+volume.'--_World._
+'The whole book is redolent of a fresher and ampler air than breathes
+in the circumscribed life of great towns.'--_Spectator._
+
+THE RIVER. _Third Edition._
+'"The River" places Mr. Phillpotts in the front rank of living
+novelists.'--_Punch._
+'Since "Lorna Doone" we have had nothing so picturesque as this new
+romance.'--_Birmingham Gazette._
+'Mr. Phillpotts's new book is a masterpiece which brings him
+indisputably into the front rank of English novelists.'--_Pall Mall
+Gazette._
+'This great romance of the River Dart. The finest book Mr. Eden
+Phillpotts has written.'--_Morning Post._
+
+THE AMERICAN PRISONER. _Third Edition._
+
+THE SECRET WOMAN. _Fourth Edition._
+
+
+S. Baring-Gould's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+ARMINELL. _Fifth Edition._
+
+URITH. _Fifth Edition._
+
+IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA. _Seventh Edition._
+
+CHEAP JACK ZITA. _Fourth Edition._
+
+MARGERY OF QUETHER. _Third Edition._
+
+THE QUEEN OF LOVE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+JACQUETTA. _Third Edition._
+
+KITTY ALONE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+NOEMI. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE BROOM-SQUIRE. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition._
+
+DARTMOOR IDYLLS.
+
+THE PENNYCOMEQUICKS. _Third Edition._
+
+GUAVAS THE TINNER. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+BLADYS. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+DOMITIA. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+PABO THE PRIEST.
+
+WINIFRED. Illustrated. _Second Edition._
+
+THE FROBISHERS.
+
+ROYAL GEORGIE. Illustrated.
+
+MISS QUILLET. Illustrated.
+
+LITTLE TU'PENNY. _A New Edition. 6d._
+
+CHRIS OF ALL SORTS.
+
+IN DEWISLAND. _Second Edition._
+
+
+Robert Barr's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS. _Third Edition._
+'A book which has abundantly satisfied us by its capital
+humour.'--_Daily Chronicle._
+
+THE MUTABLE MANY. _Second Edition._
+'There is much insight in it, and much excellent humour.'--_Daily
+Chronicle._
+
+THE VICTORS.
+
+THE COUNTESS TEKLA. _Third Edition._
+'Of these mediaeval romances, which are now gaining ground, "The Countess
+Tekla" is the very best we have seen.'--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+THE LADY ELECTRA. _Second Edition._
+
+THE TEMPESTUOUS PETTICOAT. _Second Edition._
+
+
+E. Maria Albanesi's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+SUSANNAH AND ONE OTHER. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE BLUNDER OF AN INNOCENT. _Second Edition._
+
+CAPRICIOUS CAROLINE. _Second Edition._
+
+LOVE AND LOUISA. _Second Edition._
+
+PETER, A PARASITE.
+
+
+B.M. Croker's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+ANGEL. _Fourth Edition._
+
+PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. _Sixth Edit._
+
+THE OLD CANTONMENT.
+
+A STATE SECRET. _Third Edition._
+
+JOHANNA. _Second Edition._
+
+THE HAPPY VALLEY. _Second Edition._
+
+
+J.H. Findlater's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE GREEN GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE. _Fifth Edition._
+
+
+Mary Findlater's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+A NARROW WAY. _Third Edition._
+
+OVER THE HILLS.
+
+THE ROSE OF JOY. _Second Edition._
+
+
+Robert Hichens' Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE PROPHET OF BERKELEY SQUARE. _Second Edition_
+
+TONGUES OF CONSCIENCE. _Second Edition._
+
+FELIX. _Fourth Edition._
+
+THE WOMAN WITH THE FAN. _Fifth Edition._
+
+BYEWAYS. _3s. 6d._
+
+THE GARDEN OF ALLAH _Seventh Edition._
+
+Henry James's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE SOFT SIDE. _Second Edition._
+
+THE BETTER SORT.
+
+THE AMBASSADORS. _Second Edition._
+
+THE GOLDEN BOWL.
+
+
+Mary E. Mann's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+OLIVIA'S SUMMER. _Second Edition._
+
+A LOST ESTATE. _A New Edition._
+
+THE PARISH OF HILBY. _A New Edition._
+
+*THE PARISH NURSE.
+
+GRAN'MA'S JANE.
+
+MRS. PETER HOWARD.
+
+A WINTER'S TALE. _A New Edition._
+
+ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS. _A New Edition._
+
+THERE WAS ONCE A PRINCE. Illustrated. _3s. 6d._
+
+WHEN ARNOLD COMES HOME. Illustrated. _3s. 6d._
+
+
+W. Pett Ridge's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+LOST PROPERTY. _Second Edition._
+
+ERB. _Second Edition._
+
+A SON OF THE STATE. _3s. 6d._
+
+A BREAKER OF LAWS. _3s. 6d._
+
+MRS. GALER'S BUSINESS.
+
+SECRETARY TO BAYNE, M.P. _3s. 6d._
+
+
+Adeline Sergeant's Novels
+
+_Crown 8vo. 6s. each._
+
+THE MASTER OF BEECHWOOD.
+
+BARBARA'S MONEY. _Second Edition._
+
+ANTHEA'S WAY.
+
+THE YELLOW DIAMOND. _Second Edition._
+
+UNDER SUSPICION.
+
+THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME.
+
+THE ENTHUSIAST.
+
+ACCUSED AND ACCUSER. _Second Edition._
+
+THE PROGRESS OF RACHEL.
+
+THE MYSTERY OF THE MOAT.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Albanesi (E. Maria). See page 35.
+
+Anstey (F.), Author of 'Vice Versa.' A BAYARD FROM BENGAL. Illustrated
+by BERNARD PARTRIDGE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Bacheller (Irving), Author of 'Eben Holden.' DARREL OF THE BLESSED ISLES
+_Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Bagot (Richard). A ROMAN MYSTERY. _Third Edition. Crown 8 vo. 6s._
+
+Balfour (Andrew). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Baring-Gould (S.). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Barlow (Jane). THE LAND OF THE SHAMROCK. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also
+Shilling Novels.
+
+Barr (Robert). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Begbie (Harold). THE ADVENTURES OF SIR JOHN SPARROW. _Crown. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Belloc (Hilaire). EMMANUEL BURDEN, MERCHANT, with 36 illustrations by
+G.K. CHESTERTON. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Benson (E.F.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Benson (Margaret). SUBJECT TO VANITY. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Besant (Sir Walter). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Bowles (C. Stewart). A STRETCH OFF THE LAND. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Bullock (Shan. F.). THE SQUIREEN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ THE RED LEAGUERS.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Burton (J. Bloundelle). THE YEAR ONE: A Page of the French Revolution.
+Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE FATE OF VALSEC. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A BRANDED NAME. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Capes (Bernard), Author of 'The Lake of Wine.' THE EXTRAORDINARY
+CONFESSIONS OF DIANA PLEASE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Chesney (Weatherby). THE BAPTST RING. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE TRAGEDY OF THE GREAT EMERALD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE MYSTERY OF A BUNGALOW. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Clifford (Hugh). A FREE LANCE OF TO-DAY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Clifford (Mrs. W.K.). See also Shilling Novels and Books for Boys and
+Girls.
+
+Cobb (Thomas). A CHANGE OF FACE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Cobban (J. Maclaren). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Corelli (Marie). See page 32.
+
+Cotes (Mrs. Everard). See Sara Jeannette Duncan.
+
+Cotterell (Constance). THE VIRGIN AND THE SCALES. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Crane (Stephen) and Barr (Robert). THE O'RUDDY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Crockett (S.R.). Author of 'The Raiders,' etc. LOCHINVAR. Illustrated.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE STANDARD BEARER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Croker (B.M.). See page 35.
+
+Dawson (A.J.). DANIEL WHYTE. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Doyle (A. Conan), Author of 'Sherlock Holmes,' 'The White Company,'
+etc. ROUND THE RED LAMP. _Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Duncan (Sara Jeannette) (Mrs. Everard Cotes). THOSE DELIGHTFUL
+AMERICANS. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE POOL IN THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A VOYAGE OF CONSOLATION. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Findlater (J.H.). See page 35 and Shilling Novels.
+
+Findlater (Mary). See page 35.
+
+Fitzpatrick (K.) THE WEANS AT ROWALLAN. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fitzstephen (Gerald). MORE KIN THAN KIND. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Fletcher (J.S.). LUCIAN THE DREAMER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+DAVID MARCH. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Francis (M.E.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Fraser (Mrs. Hugh). Author of 'The Stolen Emperor.' THE SLAKING OF THE
+SWORD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gallon (Tom), Author of 'Kiddy.' RICKERBY'S FOLLY. _Crown 8 vo. 6s._
+
+Gerard (Dorothea), Author of 'Lady Baby.' THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+HOLY MATRIMONY. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+MADE OF MONEY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE BRIDGE OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gerard (Emily). THE HERONS' TOWER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Gissing (George), Author of 'Demos,' 'In the Year of Jubilee,' etc.
+THE TOWN TRAVELLER. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo 6s._
+THE CROWN OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Glanville (Ernest). THE INCA'S TREASURE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 3s.
+6d._
+
+Gleig (Charles). BUNTER'S CRUISE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Goss (C.F.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Herbertson (Agnes G.). PATIENCE DEAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hichens (Robert). See page 35.
+
+Hobbes (John Oliver), Author of 'Robert Orange.' THE SERIOUS WOOING.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hope (Anthony). See page 32.
+
+Hough (Emerson). THE MISSISSIPPI BUBBLE. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Hyne (C.J. Cutcliffe), Author of 'Captain Kettle.' MR. HORROCKS,
+PURSER. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Jacobs (W.W.). See page 33.
+
+James (Henry). See page 36.
+
+Janson (Gustaf). ABRAHAM'S SACRIFICE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Keays (H.A. Mitchell). HE THAT EATHETH BREAD WITH ME. _Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+
+Lawless (Hon. Emily). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Lawson (Harry), Author of 'When the Billy Boils.' CHILDREN OF THE
+BUSH. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Levett-Yeats (S.). ORRAIN. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Linden (Annie). A WOMAN OF SENTIMENT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Linton (E. Lynn). THE TRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON, Christian and
+Communist. _Twelfth Edition. Medium 8vo. 6d._
+
+Long (J. Luther), Co-Author of 'The Darling of the Gods.' MADAME
+BUTTERFLY. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+SIXTY JANE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Lyall (Edna). DERRICK VAUGHAN, NOVELIST. _42nd Thousand. Cr. 8vo. 3s
+6d._
+
+M'Carthy (Justin H.). Author of 'If I were King.' THE LADY OF LOYALTY
+HOUSE. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE DRYAD. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mackie (Pauline Bradford). THE VOICE IN THE DESERT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Macnaughtan (S.). THE FORTUNE OF CHRISTINA MACNAB. _Third Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Malet (Lucas). See page 33.
+
+Mann (Mrs. M.E.). See page 36.
+
+Marriott (Charles), Author of 'The Column.' GENEVRA. _Second Edition.
+Cr. 8vo. 6s._
+
+Marsh (Richard). THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
+6s._
+A METAMORPHOSIS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+GARNERED. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+A DUEL. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mason (A.E.W), Author of 'The Courtship of Morrice Buckler,'
+'Miranda of the Balcony,' etc. CLEMENTINA. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo.
+Second Edition. 6s._
+
+Mathers (Helen), Author of 'Comin' thro' the Rye.' HONEY. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Meade (L.T.). DRIFT. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ RESURGAM. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Meredith (Ellis). HEART OF MY HEART. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+'Miss Molly' (The Author of). THE GREAT RECONCILER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Mitford (Bertram). THE SIGN OF THE SPIDER. Illustrated. _Sixth Edition
+Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+IN THE WHIRL OF THE RISING. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE RED DERELICT. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Montresor (F.F.), Author of 'Into the Highways and Hedges.' THE
+ALIEN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Morrison (Arthur). See page 34.
+
+Nesbit (E.). (Mrs. E. Bland). THE RED HOUSE. Illustrated. _Fourth
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE LITERARY SENSE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Norris (W.E.). THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY. Illustrated. _Second Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE EMBARRASSING ORPHAN. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+NIGEL'S VOCATION. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+LORD LEONARD THE LUCKLESS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+BARHAM OF BELTANA. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Ollivant (Alfred). OWD BOB, THE GREY DOG OF KENMUIR. _Eighth Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oppenheim (E. Phillips). MASTER OF MEN. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Oxenham (John), Author of 'Barbe of Grand Bayou.' A WEAVER OF WEBS.
+_Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE GATE OF THE DESERT. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Pain (Barry). THREE FANTASIES. _Crown 8vo. 1s._ LINDLEY KAYS. _Third
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Parker (Gilbert). See page 33.
+
+Pemberton (Max). THE FOOTSTEPS OF A THRONE. Illustrated. _Third Edition.
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+I CROWN THEE KING. With Illustrations by Frank Dadd and A. Forrestier.
+_Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Penny (Mrs. F.E.). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). See page 34, and Shilling Novels.
+
+Pickthall (Marmaduke). SAID THE FISHERMAN. _Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+*BRENDLE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+*Pryce (Richard). WINIFRED MOUNT, _A New Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+'Q,' Author of 'Dead Man's Rock.' THE WHITE WOLF. _Second Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+Queux (W. le). THE HUNCHBACK OF WESTMINSTER. _Third Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+THE CLOSED BOOK. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW. Illustrated. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rhys (Grace). THE WOOING OF SHEILA. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE PRINCE OF LISNOVER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Rhys (Grace) and Another. THE DIVERTED VILLAGE. With Illustrations by
+DOROTHY GWYN JEFFREYS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Ridge (W. Pett). See page 36.
+
+Ritchie (Mrs. David G.). THE TRUTHFUL LIAR. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Roberts (C.G.D.). THE HEART OF THE ANCIENT WOOD. _Crown 8vo 3s. 6d._
+
+*Robertson (Francee Forbes). THE TAMING OF THE BRUTE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Russell (W. Clark). MY DANISH SWEETHEART. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition
+Crown 8vo. 6s._
+ABANDONED. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+HIS ISLAND PRINCESS. Illustrated. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sergeant (Adeline). See page 36.
+
+Shannon (W.F.). THE MESS DECK. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+JIM TWELVES. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+Sonnichsen (Albert). DEEP SEA VAGABONDS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Stringer (Arthur). THE SILVER POPPY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Sutherland (Duchess of). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Swan (Annie). See Shilling Novels.
+
+Tanqueray (Mrs. B.M.). THE ROYAL QUAKER. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Thompson (Vance). SPINNERS OF LIFE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Waineman (Paul). BY A FINNISH LAKE. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE SONG OF THE FOREST. _Crown 8vo. 6s._ See also Shilling Novels.
+
+Watson (H.B.Marriott). ALARUMS AND EXCURSIONS. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+CAPTAIN FORTUNE. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Wells (H.G.) THE SEA LADY. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Weyman (Stanley), Author of 'A Gentleman of France.' UNDER THE RED
+ROBE With Illustrations by R.C. WOODVILLE. _Eighteenth Edition. Crown
+8vo. 6s._
+
+White (Stewart E.). Author of 'The Blazed Trail.' CONJUROR'S HOUSE.
+A Romance of the Free Trail. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+White (Percy). THE SYSTEM. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Williamson (Mrs. C.N.), Author of 'The Barnstormers.' PAPA. _Second
+Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE ADVENTURE OF PRINCESS SYLVIA. _Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+THE WOMAN WHO DARED. _Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE SEA COULD TELL. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE CASTLE OF THE SHADOWS. _Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+Williamson (C.N. and A.M.). THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR: Being the
+Romance of a Motor Car. Illustrated. _Tenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+THE PRINCESS PASSES. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s._
+
+
+Methuen's Shilling Novels
+
+_Cloth, 1s. net._
+
+Encouraged by the great and steady sale of their Sixpenny Novels,
+Messrs. Methuen have determined to issue a new series of fiction at a
+low price under the title of 'METHUEN'S SHILLING NOVELS.' These books
+are well printed and well bound in _cloth_, and the excellence of their
+quality may be gauged from the names of those authors who contribute the
+early volumes of the series.
+
+Messrs. Methuen would point out that the books are as good and as long
+as a six shilling novel, that they are bound in cloth and not in paper,
+and that their price is One Shilling _net_, They feel sure that the
+public will appreciate such good and cheap literature, and the books can
+be seen at all good booksellers. The first volumes are--
+
+Adeline Sergeant. A GREAT LADY.
+
+Richard Marsh. MARVELS AND MYSTERIES.
+
+Tom Gallon. RICKERBY'S FOLLY.
+
+H.B. Marriott-Watson. THE SKIRTS OF HAPPY CHANCE.
+
+Bullock (Shan F.). THE BARRYS. THE CHARMERS.
+
+Gissing (George). THE CROWN OF LIFE.
+
+Francis (M.E.). MISS ERIN.
+
+Sutherland (Duchess of). ONE HOUR AND THE NEXT.
+
+Burton (J. Bloundelle). ACROSS THE SALT SEAS.
+
+Oliphant (Mrs.) THE PRODIGALS.
+
+Balfour (Andrew). VENGEANCE IS MINE.
+
+Barr (Robert), Author of 'The Countess Tekla. THE VICTORS.
+
+Penny (Mrs. F.A.). A MIXED MARRIAGE.
+
+Hamilton (Lord Ernest). MARY HAMILTON.
+
+Glanville (Ernest). THE LOST REGIMENT.
+
+Benson (E.F.). Author of 'Dodo.' THE CAPSINA.
+
+Goss (C.F.). THE REDEMPTION OF DAVID CORSON.
+
+Findlater (J.H.). Author of 'The Green Graves of Balgowrie.' A DAUGHTER
+OF STRIFE.
+
+Cobban, (J.M.) THE KING OF ANDAMAN.
+
+Clifford (Mrs. W.K.). A WOMAN ALONE.
+
+Phillpotts (Eden). FANCY FREE.
+
+
+Books for Boys and Girls
+
+_Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d._
+
+THE GETTING WELL OF DOROTHY. By Mrs. W.K. Clifford. Illustrated by
+Gordon-Browne. _Second Edition._
+
+THE ICELANDER'S SWORD. By S. Baring-Gould.
+
+ONLY A GUARD-ROOM DOG. By Edith E. Cuthell.
+
+THE DOCTOR OF THE JULIET. By Harry Collingwood.
+
+LITTLE PETER. By Lucas Malet. _Second Edition._
+
+MASTER ROCKAFELLAR'S VOYAGE. By W. Clark Russell.
+
+THE SECRET OF MADAME DE MONLUC. By the Author of "Mdlle. Mori."
+
+SYD BELTON: Or, the Boy who would not go to Sea. By G. Manville Fenn.
+
+THE RED GRANGE. By Mrs. Molesworth.
+
+A GIRL OF THE PEOPLE. By L.T. Meade.
+
+HEPSY GIPSY. By L.T. Meade. _2s. 6d._
+
+THE HONOURABLE MISS. By L.T. Meade.
+
+
+The Novels of Alexandre Dumas
+
+_Price 6d. Double Volume, 1s._
+
+THE THREE MUSKETEERS. With a long Introduction by Andrew Lang. Double
+volume.
+
+THE PRINCE OF THIEVES. _Second Edition._
+
+ROBIN HOOD. A Sequel to the above.
+
+THE CORSICAN BROTHERS.
+
+GEORGES.
+
+CROP-EARED JACQUOT; JANE; Etc.
+
+TWENTY YEARS AFTER. Double volume.
+
+AMAURY.
+
+THE CASTLE OF EPPSTEIN.
+
+THE SNOWBALL, AND SULTANETTA.
+
+CECILE; OR, THE WEDDING GOWN.
+
+ACTE.
+
+THE BLACK TULIP.
+
+THE VICOMTE DE BRAGELONNE.
+Part I. Louis de la Valliere. Double Volume.
+Part II. The Man in the Iron Mask. Double Volume.
+
+THE CONVICT'S SON.
+
+THE WOLF-LEADER.
+
+NANON; OR, THE WOMEN'S WAR. Double volume.
+
+PAULINE; MURAT; AND PASCAL BRUNO.
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN PAMPHILE.
+
+FERNANDE.
+
+GABRIEL LAMBERT.
+
+THE REMINISCENCES OF ANTONY.
+
+CATHERINE BLUM.
+
+THE CHEVALIER D'HARMENTAL.
+
+SYLVANDIRE.
+
+THE FENCING MASTER.
+
+CONSCIENCE.
+
+THE REGENT'S DAUGHTER. A Sequel to Chevalier d'Harmental.
+
+
+Illustrated Edition.
+
+THE THREE MUSKETEERS. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s. 6d._
+
+THE PRINCE OF THIEVES. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams. _2s._
+
+ROBIN HOOD THE OUTLAW. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s._
+
+THE CORSICAN BROTHERS. Illustrated in Colour by A.M. M'Lellan. _1s. 6d._
+
+FERNANDE. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr.
+
+THE BLACK TULIP. Illustrated in Colour by A. Orr.
+
+GEORGES. Illustrated in Colour by Munro Orr. _2s._
+
+TWENTY YEARS AFTER. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams. _3s._
+
+AMAURY. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne. _2s._
+
+THE SNOWBALL, and SULTANETTA. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _2s._
+
+THE VICOMTE DE BRAGELONNE. Part I. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams.
+
+CROP-EARED JACQUOT; JANE; Etc. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne.
+
+THE CASTLE OF EPPSTEIN. Illustrated in Colour by Stewart Orr.
+
+ACTE. Illustrated in Colour by Gordon Browne.
+
+CECILE; OR, THE WEDDING GOWN. Illustrated in Colour by D. Murray Smith.
+
+THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN PAMPHILE. Illustrated in Colour by Frank
+Adams.
+
+THE WOLF-LEADER. Illustrated in Colour by Frank Adams, _1s. 6d._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of the Black Mountain, by
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+Gerald Prance
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