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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873
+       Continued By A Narrative Of His Last Moments And Sufferings,
+       Obtained From His Faithful Servants Chuma And Susi
+
+Author: David Livingstone
+
+Editor: Horace Waller
+
+Release Date: November 8, 2005 [EBook #17024]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DAVID LIVINGSTONE, II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST JOURNALS
+
+OF
+
+DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
+
+IN CENTRAL AFRICA,
+FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.
+
+CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OF
+HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS,
+OBTAINED FROM
+HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI
+
+BY HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,
+RECTOR OF TWYWELL, NORTHAMPTON.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. II.
+[1869-1873]
+
+WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+LONDON:
+JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
+1874.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Reaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumbé. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moenékuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbé's ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resumé of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of
+    comfort." Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird." The disease
+    "Safura."
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Meréré. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarré. Goître.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Part at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to
+    eat a white one." Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nyañgwé. Reaches the Lualaba
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nyañgwé on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomamé.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm, of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusizé. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyembé with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game.
+    Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness
+    at reaching Unyanyembé
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient Geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyamyembe. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir Samuel Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    Missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Short years in Buganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and Vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. High
+    mountains. Large Bay
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chituñkué's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chituñkué's. At the chiefs mercy. Agreeably
+    surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march.
+    Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out to
+    find villages. Message to Chirubwé. An ant raid. Awaits news
+    from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of Bangweolo.
+    Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and Chuma sent as
+    envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at Matipa's islet.
+    Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit. Tries to go on to
+    Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a demonstration. Solution of
+    the transport difficulty. Susi and detachment sent to Kabinga's.
+    Extraordinary extent of flood. Reaches Kabinga's. An upset.
+    Crosses the Chambezé. The River Muanakazi. They separate into
+    companies by land and water. A disconsolate lion. Singular
+    caterpillars. Observations on fish. Coasting along the southern
+    flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chuma's additional details. Great agony in his last illness.
+    Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill
+    of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses the Mohlamo
+    into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo's
+    village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last
+    night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account
+    of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the men.
+    Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is dead.
+    Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the men
+    wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation of
+    the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembé. Chuma
+    meets Lieut. Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks
+
+
+
+
+    ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+    Full-page Illustrations.
+
+     1. EVENING. ILALA. 29TH APRIL, 1873
+     2. UGUHA HEAD-DRESSES
+     3. CHUMA AND SUSI. (From a Photograph by MAULL & Co.)
+     4. MANYUEMA HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS
+     5. PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG SOKO
+     6. A DANGEROUS PRIZE
+     7. FACSIMILE OF A PORTION OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNAL
+     8. THE MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEMA WOMEN AT NYANGWE
+     9. THE MANYUEMA AMBUSH
+    10. "THE MAIN STREAM CAME UP TO SUSI'S MOUTH"
+    11. THE LAST MILES OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S TRAVELS
+    12. FISH EAGLE ON HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP
+    13. THE LAST ENTRY IN DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNALS
+    14. TEMPORARY VILLAGE IN WHICH DR. LIVINGSTONE'S BODY
+        WAS PREPARED
+
+
+    Smaller Illustrations.
+
+     1. LINES OF GREEN SCUM ON LAKE TANGANYIKA
+     2. MODE OF CATCHING ANTS
+     3. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S MOSQUITO CURTAIN
+     4. MATIPA AND HIS WIFE
+     5. AN OLD SERVANT DESTROYED
+     6. KAWENDÉ SURGERY
+
+
+    MAP OF CONJECTURAL GEOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL AFRICA,
+    FROM DR. LIVINGSTONE'S NOTES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Beaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumbé. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moenékuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.
+
+
+[The new year opened badly enough, and from letters he wrote
+subsequently concerning the illness which now attacked him, we gather
+that it left evils behind, from which he never quite recovered. The
+following entries were made after he regained sufficient strength, but
+we see how short they necessarily were, and what labour it was to make
+the jottings which relate to his progress towards the western shore of
+Lake Tanganyika. He was not able at any time during this seizure to
+continue the minute maps of the country in his pocket-books, which for
+the first time fail here.]
+
+_1st January, 1869._--I have been wet times without number, but the
+wetting of yesterday was once too often: I felt very ill, but fearing
+that the Lofuko might flood, I resolved to cross it. Cold up to the
+waist, which made me worse, but I went on for 2-1/2 hours E.
+
+_3rd January, 1869._--I marched one hour, but found I was too ill to go
+further. Moving is always good in fever; now I had a pain in the chest,
+and rust of iron sputa: my lungs, my strongest part, were thus affected.
+We crossed a rill and built sheds, but I lost count of the days of the
+week and month after this. Very ill all over.
+
+_About 7th January, 1869._--Cannot walk: Pneumonia of right lung, and I
+cough all day and all night: sputa rust of iron and bloody: distressing
+weakness. Ideas flow through the mind with great rapidity and vividness,
+in groups of twos and threes: if I look at any piece of wood, the bark
+seems covered over with figures and faces of men, and they remain,
+though I look away and turn to the same spot again. I saw myself lying
+dead in the way to Ujiji, and all the letters I expected there useless.
+When I think of my children and friends, the lines ring through my head
+perpetually:
+
+    "I shall look into your faces,
+      And listen to what you say,
+    And be often very near you
+      When you think I'm far away."
+
+Mohamad Bogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who cupped my chest.
+
+_8th and 9th January, 1869._--Mohamad Bogharib offered to carry me. I am
+so weak I can scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper now--a pretty but
+steeply-undulating country. This is the first time in my life I have
+been carried in illness, but I cannot raise myself to the sitting
+posture. No food except a little gruel. Great distress in coughing all
+night long; feet swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on a
+kitanda or frame, like a cot; carried eight hours one day. Then sleep in
+a deep ravine. Next day six hours, over volcanic tufa; very rough. We
+seem near the brim of Tanganyika. Sixteen days of illness. May be 23rd
+of January; it is 5th of lunar month. Country very undulating; it is
+perpetually up and down. Soil red, and rich knolls of every size and
+form. Trees few. Erythrinas abound; so do elephants. Carried eight hours
+yesterday to a chief's village. Small sharp thorns hurt the men's feet,
+and so does the roughness of the ground. Though there is so much slope,
+water does not run quickly off Marungu. A compact mountain-range flanks
+the undulating country through which we passed, and may stop the water
+flowing. Mohamad Bogharib is very kind to me in my extreme weakness; but
+carriage is painful; head down and feet up alternates with feet down and
+head up; jolted up and down and sideways--changing shoulders involves a
+toss from one side to the other of the kitanda. The sun is vertical,
+blistering any part of the skin exposed, and I try to shelter my face
+and head as well as I can with a bunch of leaves, but it is dreadfully
+fatiguing in my weakness.
+
+I had a severe relapse after a very hot day. Mohamad gave me medicines;
+one was a sharp purgative, the others intended for the cure of the
+cough.
+
+_14th February, 1869._--Arrived at Tanganyika. Parra is the name of the
+land at the confluence of the River Lofuko: Syde bin Habib had two or
+three large canoes at this place, our beads were nearly done, so I sent
+to Syde to say that all the Arabs had served me except himself. Thani
+bin Suellim by his letter was anxious to send a canoe as soon as I
+reached the Lake, and the only service I wanted of Syde was to inform
+Thani, by one of his canoes, that I was here very ill, and if I did not
+get to Ujiji to get proper food and medicine I should die. Thani would
+send a canoe as soon as he knew of my arrival I was sure: he replied
+that he too would serve me: and sent some flour and two fowls: he would
+come in two days and see what he could do as to canoes.
+
+_15th February, 1869._--The cough and chest pain diminished, and I feel
+thankful; my body is greatly emaciated. Syde came to-day, and is
+favourable to sending me up to Ujiji. Thanks to the Great Father in
+Heaven.
+
+_24th February, 1869._--We had remarkably little rain these two months.
+
+_25th February, 1869._--I extracted twenty _Funyés_, an insect like a
+maggot, whose eggs had been inserted on my having been put into an old
+house infested by them; as they enlarge they stir about and impart a
+stinging sensation; if disturbed, the head is drawn in a little. When a
+poultice is put on they seem obliged to come out possibly from want of
+air: they can be pressed out, but the large pimple in which they live is
+painful; they were chiefly in my limbs.
+
+_26th February, 1869._--Embark, and sleep at Katonga after seven hours'
+paddling.
+
+_27th February, 1869._--Went 1-3/4 hour to Bondo or Thembwé to buy food.
+Shore very rough, like shores near Capréra, but here all is covered with
+vegetation. We were to cross to Kabogo, a large mass of mountains on the
+eastern side, but the wind was too high.
+
+_28th February, 1869._--Syde sent food back to his slaves.
+
+_2nd March, 1869._--Waves still high, so we got off only on _3rd_ at 1h.
+30m. A.M. 6-1/2 hours, and came to M. Bogharib, who cooked bountifully.
+
+_6th March, 1869._--5 P.M. Off to Toloka Bay--three hours; left at 6
+A.M., and came, in four hours, to Uguha, which is on the west side of
+Tanganyika.
+
+_7th March, 1869._--Left at 6 P.M., and went on till two canoes ran on
+rocks in the way to Kasanga islet. Rounded a point of land, and made for
+Kasanga with a storm in our teeth; fourteen hours in all. We were
+received by a young Arab Muscat, who dined us sumptuously at noon: there
+are seventeen islets in the Kasanga group.
+
+_8th March, 1869._--On Kasanga islet. Cochin-China fowls[1] and Muscovy
+ducks appear, and plenty of a small milkless breed of goats. Tanganyika
+has many deep bays running in four or five miles; they are choked up
+with aquatic vegetation, through which canoes can scarcely be propelled.
+When the bay has a small rivulet at its head, the water in the bay is
+decidedly brackish, though the rivulet be fresh, it made the Zanzibar
+people remark on the Lake water, "It is like that we get near the
+sea-shore--a little salt;" but as soon as we get out of the shut-in bay
+or lagoon into the Lake proper the water is quite sweet, and shows that
+a current flows through the middle of the Lake lengthways.
+
+Patience was never more needed than now: I am near Ujiji, but the slaves
+who paddle are tired, and no wonder; they keep up a roaring song all
+through their work, night and day. I expect to get medicine, food, and
+milk at Ujiji, but dawdle and do nothing. I have a good appetite, and
+sleep well; these are the favourable symptoms; but am dreadfully thin,
+bowels irregular, and I have no medicine. Sputa increases; hope to hold
+out to Ujiji. Cough worse. Hope to go to-morrow.
+
+_9th March, 1869._--The Whydah birds have at present light breasts and
+dark necks. Zahor is the name of our young Arab host.
+
+_11th March, 1869._--Go over to Kibizé islet, 1-1/2 hour from Kasanga.
+Great care is taken not to encounter foul weather; we go a little way,
+then wait for fair wind in crossing to east side of Lake.
+
+_12th March, 1869._--People of Kibizé dress like those in Rua, with
+cloth made of the Muabé or wild-date leaves; the same is used in
+Madagascar for the "lamba."[2] Their hair is collected up to the top of
+the head.
+
+From Kibizé islet to Kabogo River on east side of Lake ten hours; sleep
+there. Syde slipped past us at night, but we made up to him in four
+hours next morning.
+
+_13th March, 1869._--At Rombolé; we sleep, then on.
+
+[At last he reached the great Arab settlement at Ujiji, on the eastern
+shore of Tanganyika. It was his first visit, but he had arranged that
+supplies should be forwarded thither by caravans bound inland from
+Zanzibar. Most unfortunately his goods were made away with in all
+directions--not only on this, but on several other occasions. The
+disappointment to a man shattered in health, and craving for letters and
+stores, must have been severe indeed.]
+
+_14th March, 1869._--Go past Malagarasi River, and reach Ujiji in 3-1/2
+hours. Found Haji Thani's agent in charge of my remaining goods.
+Medicines, wine, and cheese had been left at Unyanyembé, thirteen days
+east of this. Milk not to be had, as the cows had not calved, but a
+present of Assam tea from Mr. Black, the Inspector of the Peninsular and
+Oriental Company's affairs, had come from Calcutta, besides my own
+coffee and a little sugar. I bought butter; two large pots are sold for
+two fathoms of blue calico, and four-year-old flour, with which we made
+bread. I found great benefit from the tea and coffee, and still more
+from flannel to the skin.
+
+_15th March, 1869._--Took account of all the goods left by the
+plunderer; sixty-two out of eighty pieces of cloth (each of twenty-four
+yards) were stolen, and most of my best beads. The road to Unyembé[3] is
+blocked up by a Mazitu or Watuta war, so I must wait till the Governor
+there gets an opportunity to send them. The Musa sent with the buffaloes
+is a genuine specimen of the ill-conditioned, English-hating Arab. I was
+accosted on arriving by, "You must give me five dollars a month for all
+my time;" this though he had brought nothing--the buffaloes all
+died--and did nothing but receive stolen goods. I tried to make use of
+him to go a mile every second day for milk, but he shammed sickness so
+often on that day I had to get another to go; then he made a regular
+practice of coming into my house, watching what my two attendants were
+doing, and going about the village with distorted statements against
+them.
+
+I clothed him, but he tried to make bad blood between the respectable
+Arab who supplied me with milk and myself, telling him that I abused
+him, and then he would come back, saying that he abused me! I can
+account for his conduct only by attributing it to that which we call
+ill-conditioned: I had to expel him from the house.
+
+I repaired a house to keep out the rain, and on the _23rd_ moved into
+it. I gave our Kasanga host a cloth and blanket; he is ill of pneumonia
+of both lungs.
+
+_28th March, 1869._--Flannel to the skin and tea very beneficial in the
+cure of my disease; my cough has ceased, and I walk half a mile. I am
+writing letters for home.
+
+_8th April, 1869._--Visited Moené Mokaia, who sent me two fowls and
+rice; gave him two cloths. He added a sheep.
+
+_13th April, 1869._--Employed Suleyman to write notes to Governor of
+Unyembé, Syde bin Salem Burashid, to make inquiries about the theft of
+my goods, as I meant to apply to Syed Majid, and wished to speak truly
+about his man Musa bin Salum, the chief depredator.
+
+Wrote also to Thani for boat and crew to go down Tanganyika.
+
+Syde bin Habib refused to allow his men to carry my letters to the
+coast; as he suspected that I would write about his doings in Rua.
+
+_27th April, 1869._--Syde had three canoes smashed in coming up past
+Thembwé; the wind and waves drove them on the rocks, and two were
+totally destroyed: they are heavy unmanageable craft, and at the mercy
+of any storm if they cannot get into a shut bay, behind the reeds and
+aquatic vegetation. One of the wrecks is said to have been worth 200
+dollars (40_l._).
+
+The season called Masika commenced this month with the usual rolling
+thunder, and more rain than in the month preceding.
+
+I have been busy writing letters home, and finished forty-two, which in
+some measure will make up for my long silence. The Ujijians are
+unwilling to carry my letters, because, they say, Seyed Majid will order
+the bearer to return with others: he may say, "You know where he is, go
+back to him," but I suspect they fear my exposure of their ways more
+than anything else.[4]
+
+_16th May, 1869._--Thani bin Suellim sent me a note yesterday to say
+that he would be here in two days, or say three; he seems the most
+active of the Ujijians, and I trust will help me to get a canoe and men.
+
+The malachite at Katañga is loosened by fire, then dug out of four
+hills: four manehs of the ore yield one maneh of copper, but those who
+cultivate the soil get more wealth than those who mine the copper.
+
+[No change of purpose was allowed to grow out of sickness and
+disappointment. Here and there, as in the words written on the next day,
+we find Livingstone again with his back turned to the coast and gazing
+towards the land of the Manyuema and the great rivers reported there.]
+_17th May, 1869._--Syde bin Habib arrived to-day with his cargo of
+copper and slaves. I have to change house again, and wish I were away,
+now that I am getting stronger. Attendants arrive from Parra or Mparra.
+
+[The old slave-dealer, whom he met at Casembe's, and who seems to have
+been set at liberty through Livingstone's instrumentality, arrives at
+Ujiji at last.]
+
+_18th May, 1869._--Mohamad bin Saleh arrived to-day. He left this when
+comparatively young, and is now well advanced in years.
+
+The Bakatala at Lualaba West killed Salem bin Habib. _Mem._--Keep clear
+of them. Makwamba is one of the chiefs of the rock-dwellers, Ngulu is
+another, and Masika-Kitobwé on to Baluba. Sef attached Kilolo N'tambwé.
+
+_19th May, 1869._--The emancipation of our West-Indian slaves was the
+work of but a small number of the people of England--the philanthropists
+and all the more advanced thinkers of the age. Numerically they were a
+very small minority of the population, and powerful only from the
+superior abilities of the leading men, and from having the right, the
+true, and just on their side. Of the rest of the population an immense
+number were the indifferent, who had no sympathies to spare for any
+beyond their own fireside circles. In the course of time sensation
+writers came up on the surface of society, and by way of originality
+they condemned almost every measure and person of the past.
+"Emancipation was a mistake;" and these fast writers drew along with
+them a large body, who would fain be slaveholders themselves. We must
+never lose sight of the fact that though the majority perhaps are on the
+side of freedom, large numbers of Englishmen are not slaveholders only
+because the law forbids the practice. In this proclivity we see a great
+part of the reason of the frantic sympathy of thousands with the rebels
+in the great Black war in America. It is true that we do sympathize
+with brave men, though we may not approve of the objects for which they
+fight. We admired Stonewall Jackson as a modern type of Cromwell's
+Ironsides; and we praised Lee for his generalship, which, after all, was
+chiefly conspicuous by the absence of commanding abilities in his
+opponents, but, unquestionably, there existed besides an eager desire
+that slaveocracy might prosper, and the Negro go to the wall. The
+would-be slaveholders showed their leanings unmistakably in reference to
+the Jamaica outbreak; and many a would-be Colonel Hobbs, in lack of
+revolvers, dipped his pen in gall and railed against all Niggers who
+could not be made slaves. We wonder what they thought of their hero,
+when informed that, for very shame at what he had done and written, he
+had rushed unbidden out of the world.
+
+_26th May, 1869._--Thani bin Suellim came from Unyanyembé on the 20th.
+He is a slave who has risen to freedom and influence; he has a
+disagreeable outward squint of the right eye, teeth protruding from the
+averted lips, is light-coloured, and of the nervous type of African. He
+brought two light boxes from Unyembé, and charged six fathoms for one
+and eight fathoms for the other, though the carriage of both had been
+paid for at Zanzibar. When I paid him he tried to steal, and succeeded
+with one cloth by slipping it into the hands of a slave. I gave him two
+cloths and a double blanket as a present. He discovered afterwards what
+he knew before, that all had been injured by the wet on the way here,
+and sent two back openly, which all saw to be an insult. He asked a
+little coffee, and I gave a plateful; and he even sent again for more
+coffee after I had seen reason to resent his sending back my present. I
+replied, "He won't send coffee back, for I shall give him none." In
+revenge he sends round to warn all the Ujijians against taking my
+letters to the coast; this is in accordance with their previous conduct,
+for, like the Kilwa people on the road to Nyassa, they have refused to
+carry my correspondence.
+
+This is a den of the worst kind of slave-traders; those whom I met in
+Urungu and Itawa were gentlemen slavers: the Ujiji slavers, like the
+Kilwa and Portuguese, are the vilest of the vile. It is not a trade, but
+a system of consecutive murders; they go to plunder and kidnap, and
+every trading trip is nothing but a foray. Moené Mokaia, the headman of
+this place, sent canoes through to Nzigé, and his people, feeling their
+prowess among men ignorant of guns, made a regular assault but were
+repulsed, and the whole, twenty in number, were killed. Moené Mokaia is
+now negotiating with Syde bin Habib to go and revenge this, for so much
+ivory, and all he can get besides. Syde, by trying to revenge the death
+of Salem bin Habib, his brother, on the Bakatala, has blocked up one
+part of the country against me, and will probably block Nzigé, for I
+cannot get a message sent to Chowambé by anyone, and may have to go to
+Karagwé on foot, and then from Rumanyika down to this water.
+
+[In reference to the above we may add that there is a vocabulary of
+Masai words at the end of a memorandum-book. Livingstone compiled this
+with the idea that it would prove useful on his way towards the coast,
+should he eventually pass through the Masai country. No doubt some of
+the Arabs or their slaves knew the language, and assisted him at his
+work.]
+
+_29th May, 1869._--Many people went off to Unyembé, and their houses
+were untenanted; I wished one, as I was in a lean-to of Zahor's, but the
+two headmen tried to secure the rent for themselves, and were defeated
+by Mohamad bin Saleh. I took my packet of letters to Thani, and gave two
+cloths and four bunches of beads to the man who was to take them to
+Unyanyembé; an hour afterwards, letters, cloths, and beads were
+returned: Thani said he was afraid of English letters; he did not know
+what was inside. I had sewed them up in a piece of canvas, that was
+suspicious, and he would call all the great men of Ujiji and ask them if
+it would be safe to take them; if they assented he would call for the
+letters, if not he would not send them. I told Mohamad bin Saleh, and he
+said to Thani that he and I were men of the Government, and orders had
+come from Syed Majid to treat me with all respect: was this conduct
+respectful? Thani then sent for the packet, but whether it will reach
+Zanzibar I am doubtful. I gave the rent to the owner of the house and
+went into it on 31st May. They are nearly all miserable Suaheli at
+Ujiji, and have neither the manners nor the sense of Arabs.
+
+[We see in the next few lines how satisfied Livingstone was concerning
+the current in the Lake: he almost wishes to call Tanganyika _a river_.
+Here then is a problem left for the future explorer to determine.
+Although the Doctor proved by experiments during his lengthy stay at
+Ujiji that the set is towards the north, his two men get over the
+difficulty thus: "If you blow upon the surface of a basin of water on
+one side, you will cause the water at last to revolve round and round;
+so with Tanganyika, the prevailing winds produce a similar
+circulation.". They feel certain there is no outlet, because at one time
+or another they virtually completed the survey of the coast line and
+listened to native testimony besides. How the phenomenon of sweet water
+is to be accounted for we do not pretend to say. The reader will see
+further on that Livingstone grapples with the difficulty which this Lake
+affords, and propounds an exceedingly clever theory.]
+
+Tanganyika has encroached on the Ujiji side upwards of a mile, and the
+bank, which was in the memory of men now living, garden ground, is
+covered with about two fathoms of water: in this Tanganyika resembles
+most other rivers in this country, as the Upper Zambesi for instance,
+which in the Barotsé country has been wearing eastwards for the last
+thirty years: this Lake, or river, has worn eastwards too.
+
+_1st June, 1869._--I am thankful to feel getting strong again, and wish
+to go down Tanganyika, but cannot get men: two months must elapse ere we
+can face the long grass and superabundant water in the way to Manyuema.
+
+[Illustration: Lines of Green Scum]
+
+The green scum which forms on still water in this country is of
+vegetable origin--confervæ. When the rains fall they swell the lagoons,
+and the scum is swept into the Lake; here it is borne along by the
+current from south to north, and arranged in long lines, which bend from
+side to side as the water flows, but always N.N.W. or N.N.E., and not
+driven, as here, by the winds, as plants floating above the level of the
+water would be.
+
+_7th June, 1869._--It is remarkable that all the Ujiji Arabs who have
+any opinion on the subject, believe that all the water in the north, and
+all the water in the south, too, flows into Tanganyika, but where it
+then goes they have no conjecture. They assert, as a matter of fact,
+that Tanganyika, Usigé water, and Loanda, are one and the same piece of
+river.
+
+Thani, on being applied to for men and a canoe to take me down this line
+of drainage, consented, but let me know that his people would go no
+further than Uvira, and then return. He subsequently said Usigé, but I
+wished to know what I was to do when left at the very point where I
+should be most in need. He replied, in his silly way, "My people are
+afraid; they won't go further; get country people," &c. Moenegheré sent
+men to Loanda to force a passage through, but his people were repulsed
+and twenty killed.
+
+Three men came yesterday from Mokamba, the greatest chief in Usigé,
+with four tusks as a present to his friend Moenegheré, and asking for
+canoes to be sent down to the end of Urundi country to bring butter and
+other things, which the three men could not bring: this seems an
+opening, for Mokamba being Moenegheré's friend I shall prefer paying
+Moenegheré for a canoe to being dependent on Thani's skulkers. If the
+way beyond Mokamba is blocked up by the fatal skirmish referred to, I
+can go from Mokamba to Rumanyika, three or four or more days distant,
+and get guides from him to lead me back to the main river beyond Loanda,
+and by this plan only three days of the stream will be passed over
+unvisited. Thani would evidently like to receive the payment, but
+without securing to me the object for which I pay. He is a poor thing, a
+slaveling: Syed Majid, Sheikh Suleiman, and Korojé, have all written to
+him, urging an assisting deportment in vain: I never see him but he begs
+something, and gives nothing, I suppose he expects me to beg from him. I
+shall be guided by Moenegheré.
+
+I cannot find anyone who knows where the outflow of the unvisited Lake
+S.W. of this goes; some think that it goes to the Western Ocean, or, I
+should say, the Congo. Mohamad Bogharib goes in a month to Manyuema, but
+if matters turn out as I wish, I may explore this Tanganyika line first.
+One who has been in Manyuema three times, and was of the first party
+that ever went there, says that the Manyuema are not cannibals, but a
+tribe west of them eats some parts of the bodies of those slain in war.
+Some people south of Moenékuss[5], chief of Manyuema, build strong clay
+houses.
+
+_22nd June, 1869._--After listening to a great deal of talk I have come
+to the conclusion that I had better not go with Moenegheré's people to
+Mokamba. I see that it is to be a mulcting, as in Speke's case: I am to
+give largely, though I am not thereby assured of getting down the river.
+They say, "You must give much, because you are a great man: Mokamba will
+say so"--though Mokamba knows nothing about me! It is uncertain whether
+I can get down through by Loanda, and great risk would be run in going
+to those who cut off the party of Moenegheré, so I have come to the
+conclusion that it will be better for me to go to Manyuema about a
+fortnight hence, and, if possible, trace down the western arm of the
+Nile to the north--if this arm is indeed that of the Nile, and not of
+the Congo. Nobody here knows anything about it, or, indeed, about the
+eastern or Tanganyika line either; they all confess that they have but
+one question in their minds in going anywhere, they ask for ivory and
+for nothing else, and each trip ends as a foray. Moenegheré's last trip
+ended disastrously, twenty-six of his men being cut off; in extenuation
+he says that it was not his war but Mokamba's: he wished to be allowed
+to go down through Loanda, and as the people in front of Mokamba and
+Usigé own his supremacy, he said, "Send your force with mine and let us
+open the way," so they went on land and were killed. An attempt was made
+to induce Syde bin Habib to clear the way, and be paid in ivory, but
+Syde likes to battle with those who will soon run away and leave the
+spoil to him.
+
+The Manyuema are said to be friendly where they have not been attacked
+by Arabs: a great chief is reported as living on a large river flowing
+northwards, I hope to make my way to him, and I feel exhilarated at the
+thought of getting among people not spoiled by contact with Arab
+traders. I would not hesitate to run the risk of getting through Loanda,
+the continuation of Usigé beyond Mokamba's, had blood not been shed so
+very recently there; but it would at present be a great danger, and to
+explore some sixty miles of the Tanganyika line only. If I return
+hither from Manyuema my goods and fresh men from Zanzibar will have
+arrived, and I shall be better able to judge as to the course to be
+pursued after that. Mokamba is about twenty, miles beyond Uvira; the
+scene of Moenegheré's defeat, is ten miles beyond Mokamba; so the
+unexplored part cannot be over sixty miles, say thirty if we take
+Baker's estimate of the southing of his water to be near the truth.
+
+Salem or Palamotto told me that he was sent for by a headman near to
+this to fight his brother for him: he went and demanded prepayment; then
+the brother sent him three tusks to refrain: Salem took them and came
+home. The Africans have had hard measures meted out to them in the
+world's history!
+
+_28th June, 1869._--The current in Tanganyika is well marked when the
+lighter-coloured water of a river flows in and does not at once mix--the
+Luishé at Ujiji is a good example, and it shows by large light greenish
+patches on the surface a current of nearly a mile an hour north. It
+begins to flow about February, and continues running north till November
+or December. Evaporation on 300 miles of the south is then at its
+strongest, and water begins to flow gently south till arrested by the
+flood of the great rains there, which takes place in February and March.
+There is, it seems, a reflux for about three months in each year, flow
+and reflow being the effect of the rains and evaporation on a lacustrine
+river of some three hundred miles in length lying south of the equator.
+The flow northwards I have myself observed, that again southwards rests
+on native testimony, and it was elicited from the Arabs by pointing out
+the northern current: they attributed the southern current to the effect
+of the wind, which they say then blows south. Being cooled by the rains,
+it comes south into the hot valley of this great Riverein Lake, or
+lacustrine river.
+
+In going to Moenékuss, the paramount chief of the Manyuema, forty days
+are required. The headmen of trading parties remain with this chief (who
+is said by all to be a very good man), and send their people out in all
+directions to trade. Moenemogaia says that in going due north from
+Moenékuss they come to a large river, the Robumba, which flows into and
+is the Luama, and that this again joins the Lualaba, which retains its
+name after flowing with the Lufira and Lofu into the still unvisited
+Lake S.S.W. of this: it goes thence due north, probably into Mr. Baker's
+part of the eastern branch of the Nile. When I have gone as far north
+along Lualaba as I can this year, I shall be able to judge as to the
+course I ought to take after receiving my goods and men from Zanzibar,
+and may the Highest direct me, so that I may finish creditably the work
+I have undertaken. I propose to start for Manyuema on the 3rd July.
+
+The dagala or nsipé, a small fish caught in great numbers in every
+flowing water, and very like whitebait, is said to emit its eggs by the
+mouth, and these immediately burst and the young fish manages for
+itself. The dagala never becomes larger than two or three inches in
+length. Some, putrefied, are bitter, as if the bile were in them in a
+good quantity. I have eaten them in Lunda of a pungent bitter taste,
+probably arising from the food on which the fish feeds. Men say that
+they have seen the eggs kept in the sides of the mouth till ready to go
+off as independent fishes. The nghédé-dégé, a species of perch, and
+another, the ndusi, are said to do the same. The Arabs imagine that fish
+in general fall from the skies, but they except the shark, because they
+can see the young when it is cut open.
+
+_10th July, 1869._--After a great deal of delay and trouble about a
+canoe, we got one from Habee for ten dotis or forty yards of calico, and
+a doti or four yards to each of nine paddlers to bring the vessel back.
+Thani and Zahor blamed me for not taking their canoes for nothing; but
+they took good care not to give them, but made vague offers, which
+meant, "We want much higher pay for our dhows than Arabs generally
+get:" they showed such an intention to fleece me that I was glad to get
+out of their power, and save the few goods I had. I went a few miles,
+when two strangers I had allowed to embark (from being under obligations
+to their masters), worked against each other: so I had to let one land,
+and but for his master would have dismissed the other: I had to send an
+apology to the landed man's master for politeness' sake.
+
+[It is necessary to say a few words here, so unostentatiously does
+Livingstone introduce this new series of explorations to the reader. The
+Manyuema country, for which he set out on the 12th of July, 1869, was
+hitherto unknown. As we follow him we shall see that in almost every
+respect both the face of the country and the people differ from other
+regions lying nearer to the East Coast. It appears that the Arabs had an
+inkling of the vast quantities of ivory which might be procured there,
+and Livingstone went into the new field with the foremost of those
+hordes of Ujijian traders who, in all probability, will eventually
+destroy tribe after tribe by slave-trading and pillage, as they have
+done in so many other regions.]
+
+Off at 6 A.M., and passed the mouth of the Luishé, in Kibwé Bay; 3-1/2
+hours took us to Rombola or Lombola, where all the building wood of
+Ujiji is cut.
+
+_12th July, 1869._--Left at 1.30 A.M., and pulled 7-1/2 hours to the
+left bank of the Malagarasi River. We cannot go by day, because about 11
+A.M. a south-west wind commences to blow, which the heavy canoes cannot
+face; it often begins earlier or later, according to the phases of the
+moon. An east wind blows from sunrise till 10 or 11 A.M., and the
+south-west begins. The Malagarasi is of considerable size at its
+confluence, and has a large islet covered with eschinomena, or pith hat
+material, growing in its way.
+
+Were it not for the current Tanganyika would be covered with green scum
+now rolling away in miles of length and breadth to the north; it would
+also be salt like its shut-in bays. The water has now fallen two feet
+perpendicularly. It took us twelve hours to ascend to the Malagarasi
+River from Ujiji, and only seven to go down that distance. Prodigious
+quantities of confervæ pass us day and night in slow majestic flow. It
+is called Shuaré. But for the current Tanganyika would be covered with
+"Tikatika" too, like Victoria Nyanza.
+
+_13th July, 1869._--Off at 3.15 A.M., and in five hours reached Kabogo
+Eiver; from this point the crossing is always accomplished: it is about
+thirty miles broad. Tried to get off at 6 P.M., but after two miles the
+south wind blew, and as it is a dangerous wind and the usual one in
+storms, the men insisted on coming back, for the wind, having free
+scope along the entire southern length of Tanganyika, raises waves
+perilous to their heavy craft; after this the clouds cleared all away,
+and the wind died off too; the full moon shone brightly, and this is
+usually accompanied by calm weather here. Storms occur at new moon most
+frequently.
+
+_14th July, 1869._--Sounded in dark water opposite the high fountain
+Kabogo, 326 fathoms, but my line broke in coming up, and we did not see
+the armed end of the sounding lead with sand or mud on it: this is 1965
+feet.
+
+People awaking in fright utter most unearthly yells, and they are joined
+in them by all who sleep near. The first imagines himself seized by a
+wild beast, the rest roar because they hear him doing it: this indicates
+the extreme of helpless terror.
+
+_15th July, 1869._--After pulling all night we arrived at some islands
+and cooked breakfast, then we went on to Kasengë islet on their south,
+and came up to Mohamad Bogharib, who had come from Tongwé, and intended
+to go to Manyuema. We cross over to the mainland, that is, to the
+western shore of the Lake, about 300 yards off, to begin our journey on
+the 21st. Lunars on 20th. Delay to prepare food for journey. Lunars
+again 22nd.
+
+A strong wind from the East to-day. A current sweeps round this islet
+Kiséngé from N.E. to S.E., and carries trees and duckweed at more than
+a mile an hour in spite of the breeze blowing across it to the West. The
+wind blowing along the Lake either way raises up water, and in a calm it
+returns, off the shore. Sometimes it causes the current to go
+southwards. Tanganyika narrows at Uvira or Vira, and goes out of sight
+among the mountains there; then it appears as a waterfall into the Lake
+of Quando seen by Banyamwezi.
+
+_23rd July, 1869._--I gave a cloth to be kept for Kasanga, the chief of
+Kasengé, who has gone to fight with the people of Goma.
+
+_1st August, 1869._--Mohamad killed a kid as a sort of sacrifice, and
+they pray to Hadrajee before eating it. The cookery is of their very
+best, and I always get a share; I tell them that I like the cookery, but
+not the prayers, and it is taken in good part.
+
+_2nd August, 1869._--We embarked from the islet and got over to the
+mainland, and slept in a hooked-thorn copse, with a species of black
+pepper plant, which we found near the top of Mount Zomba, in the
+Manganja country,[6] in our vicinity; it shows humidity of climate.
+
+_3rd August, 1869._--Marched 3-1/4 hours south, along Tanganyika, in a
+very undulating country; very fatiguing in my weakness. Passed many
+screw-palms, and slept at Lobamba village.
+
+_4th August, 1869._--A relative of Kasanga engaged to act as our guide,
+so we remained waiting for him, and employed a Banyamwezi smith to make
+copper balls with some bars of that metal presented by Syde bin Habib. A
+lamb wasstolen, and all declared that the deed must have been done by
+Banyamwezi. "At Guha people never steal," and I believe this is true.
+
+_7th August, 1869._--The guide having arrived, we marched 2-1/4 hours
+west and crossed the River Logumba, about forty yards broad and knee
+deep, with a rapid current between deep cut banks; it rises in the
+western Kabogo range, and flows about S.W. into Tanganyika. Much dura or
+_Holcus sorghum_ is cultivated on the rich alluvial soil on its banks by
+the Guha people.
+
+_8th August, 1869._--West through open forest; very undulating, and the
+path full of angular fragments of quartz. We see mountains in the
+distance.
+
+_9th-10th August, 1869._--Westwards to Makhato's village, and met a
+company of natives beating a drum as they came near; this is the peace
+signal; if war is meant the attack is quiet and stealthy. There are
+plenty of Masuko trees laden with fruit, but unripe. It is cold at
+night, but dry, and the people sleep with only a fence at their heads,
+but I have a shed built at every camp as a protection for the loads, and
+sleep in it.
+
+Any ascent, though gentle, makes me blow since the attack of pneumonia;
+if it is inclined to an angle of 45°, 100 or 150 yards make me stop to
+pant in distress.
+
+_11th August, 1869._--Came to a village of Ba Rua, surrounded by hills
+of some 200 feet above the plain; trees sparse.
+
+_12th-13th August, 1869._--At villages of Mekhéto. Guha people. Remain
+to buy and prepare food, and because many are sick.
+
+_16th August, 1869._--West and by north through much forest reach
+Kalalibébé; buffalo killed.
+
+_17th August, 1869._--To a high mountain, Golu or Gulu, and sleep at its
+base.
+
+_18th August, 1869._--Cross two rills flowing into River Mgoluyé. Kagoya
+and Moishé flow into Lobumba.
+
+_19th August, 1869._--To the River Lobumba, forty-five yards Avide,
+thigh deep, and rapid current. Logumba and Lobumba are both from Kabogo
+Mounts: one goes into Tanganyika, and the other, or Lobumba, into and is
+the Luamo: prawns are found in this river. The country east of the
+Lobumba is called Lobanda, that west of it, Kitwa.
+
+_21st August, 1869._--Went on to the River Loungwa, which has worn for
+itself a rut in new red sandstone twenty feet deep, and only three or
+four feet wide at the lips.
+
+_25th August, 1869._--We rest because all are tired; travelling at this
+season is excessively fatiguing. It is very hot at even 10 A.M., and 2½
+or 3 hours tires the strongest--carriers especially so: during the rains
+five hours would not have fatigued so much as three do now. We are now
+on the same level as Tanganyika. The dense mass of black smoke rising
+from the burning grass and reeds on the Lobumba, or Robumba, obscures
+the sun, and very sensibly lowers the temperature of the sultriest day;
+it looks like the smoke in Martin's pictures. The Manyuema arrows here
+are very small, and made of strong grass stalks, but poisoned, the large
+ones, for elephants and buffaloes, are poisoned also.
+
+_31st August, 1869._--Course N.W. among Palmyras and Hyphené Palms, and
+many villages swarming with people. Crossed Kibila, a hot fountain about
+120°, to sleep at Kolokolo River, five yards wide, and knee deep: midway
+we passed the River Kanzazala. On asking the name of a mountain on our
+right I got three names for it--Kaloba, Chingedi, and Kihomba, a fair
+specimen of the superabundance of names in this country!
+
+_1st September, 1869._--West in flat forest, then cross Kishila River,
+and go on to Kundé's villages. The Katamba is a fine rivulet. Kundé is
+an old man without dignity or honour: he came to beg, but offered
+nothing.
+
+_2nd September, 1869._--We remained at Katamba to hunt buffaloes and
+rest, as I am still weak. A young elephant was killed, and I got the
+heart: the Arabs do not eat it, but that part is nice if well cooked.
+
+A Lunda slave, for whom I interceded to be freed of the yoke, ran away,
+and as he is near the Barna, his countrymen, he will be hidden. He told
+his plan to our guide, and asked to accompany him back to Tanganyika,
+but he is eager to deliver him up for a reward: all are eager to press
+each other down in the mire into which they are already sunk.
+
+_5th September, 1869._--Kundé's people refused the tusks of an elephant
+killed by our hunter, asserting that they had killed it themselves with
+a hoe: they have no honour here, as some have elsewhere.
+
+_7th September, 1869._--W. and N.W., through forest and immense fields
+of cassava, some three years old, with roots as thick as a stout man's
+leg.
+
+_8th September, 1869._--Across five rivers and through many villages.
+The country is covered with ferns and gingers, and miles and miles of
+cassava. On to village of Karun-gamagao.
+
+_9th September, 1869._--Rest again to shoot meat, as elephants and
+buffaloes are very abundant: the Suaheli think that adultery is an
+obstacle to success in killing this animal: no harm can happen to him
+who is faithful to his wife, and has the proper charms inserted under
+the skin of his forearms.
+
+_10th September, 1869._--North and north-west, over four rivers, and.
+past the village of Makala, to near that of Pyana-mosindé.
+
+_12th September, 1869._--We had wandered, and now came back to our path
+on hilly ground. The days are sultry and smoking. We came to some
+villages of Pyana-mosindé; the population prodigiously large. A sword
+was left at the camp, and at once picked up; though the man was traced
+to a village it was refused, till he accidentally cut his foot with it,
+and became afraid that worse would follow, elsewhere it would have been
+given up at once: Pyana-mosindé came out and talked very sensibly.
+
+_13th September, 1869._--Along towards the Moloni or Mononi; cross seven
+rills. The people seized three slaves who lagged behind, but hearing a
+gun fired at guinea-fowls let them go. Route N.
+
+_14th September, 1869._--Up and down hills perpetually. We went down
+into some deep dells, filled with gigantic trees, and I measured one
+twenty feet in circumference, and sixty or seventy feet high to the
+first branches; others seemed fit to be ship's spars. Large lichens
+covered many and numerous new plants appeared on the ground.
+
+_15th September, 1869._--Got clear of the mountains after 1-1/2 hour, and
+then the vast valley of Mamba opened out before us; very beautiful, and
+much of it cleared of trees. Met Dugumbé carrying 18,000 lbs. of ivory,
+purchased in this new field very cheaply, because no traders had ever
+gone into the country beyond Bambarré, or Moenékuss's district before.
+We were now in the large bend of the Lualaba, which is here much larger
+than at Mpwéto's, near Moero Lake. River Kesingwé.
+
+_16th September, 1869._--To Kasangangazi's. We now came to the first
+palm-oil trees (_Elais Guineensis_) in our way since we left Tanganyika.
+They had evidently been planted at villages. Light-grey parrots, with
+red tails, also became common, whose name, Kuss or Koos, gives the chief
+his name, Moenékuss ("Lord of the Parrot"); but the Manyuema
+pronunciation is Monanjoosé. Much reedy grass, fully half an inch in
+diameter in the stalk on our route, and over the top of the range
+Moloni, which we ascended: the valleys are impassable.
+
+_17th September, 1869._--Remain to buy food at Kasanga's, and rest the
+carriers. The country is full of pahn-oil palms, and very beautiful. Our
+people are all afraid to go out of sight of the camp for necessary
+purposes, lest the Manyuema should kill them. Here was the barrier to
+traders going north, for the very people among whom we now are, murdered
+anyone carrying a tusk, till last year, when Moene-mokaia, or Katomba,
+got into friendship with Moenékuss, who protected his people, and always
+behaved in a generous sensible manner. Dilongo, now a chief here, came
+to visit us: his elder brother died, and he was elected; he does not
+wash in consequence, and is very dirty.
+
+Two buffaloes were killed yesterday. The people have their bodies
+tattooed with new and full moons, stars, crocodiles, and Egyptian
+gardens.
+
+_19th September, 1869._--We crossed several rivulets three yards to
+twelve yards, and calf deep. The mountain where we camped is called
+Sangomélambé.
+
+_20th September, 1869._--Up to a broad range of high mountains of light
+grey granite; there are deep dells on the top filled with gigantic
+trees, and having running rills in them. Some trees appear with enormous
+roots, buttresses in fact like mangroves in the coast swamps, six feet
+high at the trunk and flattened from side to side to about three inches
+in diameter. There are many villages dotted over the slopes which we
+climbed; one had been destroyed, and revealed the hard clay walls and
+square forms of Manyuema houses. Our path lay partly along a ridge, with
+a deep valley on each side: one on the left had a valley filled with
+primeval forests, into which elephants when wounded escape completely.
+The forest was a dense mass, without a bit of ground to be seen except a
+patch on the S.W., the bottom of this great valley was 2000 feet below
+us, then ranges of mountains with villages on their bases rose as far as
+they could reach. On our right there was another deep but narrow gorge,
+and mountains much higher than on our ridge close adjacent. Our ridge
+looked like a glacier, and it wound from side to side, and took us to
+the edge of deep precipices, first on the right, then on the left, till
+down below we came to the villages of Chief Monandenda. The houses here
+are all well filled with firewood on shelves, and each has a bed on a
+raised platform in an inner room.
+
+The paths are very skilfully placed on the tops of the ridges of hills,
+and all gullies are avoided. If the highest level were not in general
+made the ground for passing through the country the distances would at
+least be doubled, and the fatigue greatly increased. The paths seem to
+have been used for ages: they are worn deep on the heights; and in
+hollows a little mound rises on each side, formed by the feet tossing a
+little soil on one side.
+
+_21st September, 1869._--Cross five or six rivulets, and as many
+villages, some burned and deserted, or inhabited. Very many people come
+running to see the strangers. Gigantic trees all about the villages.
+Arrive at Bambarré or Moenékuss.
+
+About eighty hours of actual travelling, say at 2' per hour = say 160'
+or 140'. Westing from 3rd August to 21st September. My strength
+increased as I persevered. From Tanganyika west bank say =
+
+    29° 30' east - 140' = 2° 20,'
+     2  20
+    -------
+    27° 10' Long.
+
+Chief village of Moenékuss.
+
+Observations show a little lower altitude than Tanganyika.
+
+_22nd September, 1869._--Moenékuss died lately, and left his two sons to
+fill his place. Moenembagg is the elder of the two, and the most
+sensible, and the spokesman on all important occasions, but his younger
+brother, Moenemgoi, is the chief, the centre of authority. They showed
+symptoms of suspicion, and Mohamad performed the ceremony of mixing
+blood, which is simply making a small incision on the forearm of each
+person, and then mixing the bloods, and making declarations of
+friendship. Moenembagg said, "Your people must not steal, we never do,"
+which is true: blood in a small quantity was then conveyed from one to
+the other by a fig-leaf. "No stealing of fowls or of men," said the
+chief: "Catch the thief and bring him to me, one who steals a person is
+a pig," said Mohamad. Stealing, however, began on our side, a slave
+purloining a fowl, so they had good reason to enjoin honesty on us! They
+think that we have come to kill them: we light on them as if from
+another world: no letters come to tell who we are, or what we want. We
+cannot conceive their state of isolation and helplessness, with nothing
+to trust to but their charms and idols--both being bits of wood. I got a
+large beetle hung up before an idol in the idol house of a deserted and
+burned village; the guardian was there, but the village destroyed.
+
+I presented the two brothers with two table cloths, four bunches of
+beads, and one string of neck-beads; they were well satisfied.
+
+A wood here when burned emits a horrid fæcal smell, and one would think
+the camp polluted if one fire was made of it. I had a house built for me
+because the village huts are inconvenient, low in roof, and low
+doorways; the men build them, and help to cultivate the soil, but the
+women have to keep them well filled with firewood and supplied with
+water. They carry the wood, and almost everything else in large baskets,
+hung to the shoulders, like the Edinburgh fishwives. A man made a long
+loud prayer to Mulungu last night after dark for rain.
+
+The sons of Moenékuss have but little of their father's power, but they
+try to behave to strangers as he did. All our people are in terror of
+the Manyéma, or Manyuema, man-eating fame: a woman's child had crept
+into a quiet corner of the hut to eat a banana--she could not find him,
+and at once concluded that the Manyuema had kidnapped him to eat him,
+and with a yell she ran through the camp and screamed at the top of her
+shrill voice, "Oh, the Manyuema have stolen my child to make meat of
+him! Oh, my child eaten--oh, oh!"
+
+_26th-28th September, 1869._--A Lunda slave-girl was sent off to be sold
+for a tusk, but the Manyuema don't want slaves, as we were told in
+Lunda, for they are generally thieves, and otherwise bad characters. It
+is now clouded over and preparing for rain, when sun comes overhead.
+Small-pox comes every three or four years, and kills many of the people.
+A soko alive was believed to be a good charm for rain; so one was
+caught, and the captor had the ends of two fingers and toes bitten off.
+The soko or gorillah always tries to bite off these parts, and has been
+known to overpower a young man and leave him without the ends of fingers
+and toes. I saw the nest of one: it is a poor contrivance; no more
+architectural skill shown than in the nest of our Cushat dove.
+
+_29th September, 1869._--I visited a hot fountain, an hour west of our
+camp, which has five eyes, temperature 150°, slightly saline taste, and
+steam issues constantly. It is called Kasugwé Colambu. Earthquakes are
+well known, and to the Manyuema they seem to come from the east to west;
+pots rattle and fowls cackle on these occasions.
+
+_2nd October, 1869._--A rhinoceros was shot, and party sent off to the
+River Luamo to buy ivory.
+
+_5th October, 1869._--An elephant was killed, and the entire population
+went off to get meat, which was given freely at first, but after it was
+known how eagerly the Manyuema sought it, six or eight goats were
+demanded for a carcase and given.
+
+_9th October, 1869._--The rite of circumcision is general among all the
+Manyuema; it is performed on the young. If a headman's son is to be
+operated on, it is tried on a slave first; certain times of the year are
+unpropitious, as during a drought for instance; but having by this
+experiment ascertained the proper time, they go into the forest, beat
+drums, and feast as elsewhere: contrary to all African custom they are
+not ashamed to speak about the rite, even before women.
+
+Two very fine young men came to visit me to-day. After putting several
+preparatory inquiries as to where our country lay, &c., they asked
+whether people died with us, and where they went to after death. "Who
+kills them?" "Have you no charm (Buanga) against death?" It is not
+necessary to answer such questions save in a land never visited by
+strangers. Both had the "organs of intelligence" largely developed. I
+told them that we prayed to the Great Father, "Mulungu," and He hears us
+all; they thought this to be natural.
+
+_14th October, 1869._--An elephant killed was of the small variety, and
+only 5 feet 8 inches high at the withers. The forefoot was in
+circumference 3 feet 9 inches, which doubled gives 7 feet 6 inches; this
+shows a deviation from the usual rule "twice round the forefoot = the
+height of the animal." Heart 1-1/2 foot long, tusks 6 feet 8 inches in
+length.
+
+_15th October, 1869._--Fever better, and thankful. Very cold and rainy.
+
+_18th October, 1869._--Our Hassani returned from Moené Kirumbo's; then
+one of Dugumbé's party (also called Hassani) seized ten goats and ten
+slaves before leaving, though great kindness had been shown: this is
+genuine Suaheli or Nigger-Moslem tactics--four of his people were killed
+in revenge.
+
+A whole regiment of Soldier ants in my hut were put into a panic by a
+detachment of Driver ants called Sirufu. The Chungu or black soldiers
+rushed out with their eggs and young, putting them down and running for
+more. A dozen Sirafu pitched on one Chungu and killed him. The Chungu
+made new quarters for themselves. When the white ants cast off their
+colony of winged emigrants a canopy is erected like an umbrella over the
+ant-hill. As soon as the ants fly against the roof they tumble down in a
+shower and their wings instantly become detached from their bodies. They
+are then helpless, and are swept up in baskets to be fried, when they
+make a very palatable food.
+
+[Illustration: Catching Ants.]
+
+_24th-25th October, 1869._--Making copper rings, as these are highly
+prized by Manyuema. Mohamad's Tembé fell. It had been begun on an
+unlucky day, the 26th of the moon; and on another occasion on the same
+day, he had fifty slaves swept away by a sudden flood of a dry river in
+the Obena country: they are great observers of lucky and unlucky days.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] On showing Chuma and Susi some immense Cochin-China fowls at a
+poultry show, they said that they were not larger than those which
+they saw when with Dr. Livingstone on these islands. Muscovy ducks
+abound throughout Central Africa.--ED.
+
+[2] The natural dress of the Malagash.
+
+[3] The same as Unyanyembé, the half-way settlement on the great
+caravan road from the coast to the interior.
+
+[4] These letters must have been destroyed purposely by the Arabs, for
+they never arrived at Zanzibar.--ED.
+
+[5] It is curious that this name occurs amongst the Zulu tribes south
+of the Zambesi, and, as it has no vowel at the end, appears to be of
+altogether foreign origin.--ED.
+
+[6] In 1859.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbé's ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resumé of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters.
+
+
+_1st November, 1869._--Being now well rested, I resolved to go west to
+Lualaba and buy a canoe for its exploration. Our course was west and
+south-west, through a country surpassingly beautiful, mountainous, and
+villages perched on the talus of each great mass for the sake of quick
+drainage. The streets often run east and west, in order that the bright
+blazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from off them. The dwelling
+houses are generally in line, with public meeting houses at each end,
+opposite the middle of the street, the roofs are low, but well thatched
+with a leaf resembling the banana leaf, but more tough; it seems from
+its fruit to be a species of Euphorbia. The leaf-stack has a notch made
+in it of two or three inches lengthways, and this hooks on to the
+rafters, which are often of the leaf-stalks of palms, split up so as to
+be thin; the water runs quickly off this roof, and the walls, which are
+of well-beaten clay, are screened from the weather. Inside, the
+dwellings are clean and comfortable, and before the Arabs came bugs were
+unknown--as I have before observed, one may know where these people have
+come by the presence or absence of these nasty vermin: the human tick,
+which infests all Arab and Suaheli houses, is to the Manyuema unknown.
+
+In some cases, where the south-east rains are abundant, the Manyuema
+place the back side of the houses to this quarter, and prolong the low
+roof down, so that the rain does not reach the walls. These clay walls
+stand for ages, and men often return to the villages they left in
+infancy and build again the portions that many rains have washed away.
+The country generally is of clayey soil, and suitable for building. Each
+housewife has from twenty-five to thirty earthen pots slung to the
+ceiling by very neat cord-swinging tressels; and often as many neatly
+made baskets hung up in the same fashion, and much firewood.
+
+_5th November, 1869._--In going we crossed the River Luela, of twenty
+yards in width, five times, in a dense dripping forest. The men of one
+village always refused to accompany us to the next set of hamlets, "They
+were at war, and afraid of being killed and eaten." They often came five
+or six miles through the forests that separate the districts, but when
+we drew near to the cleared spaces cultivated by their enemies they
+parted civilly, and invited us to come the same way back, and they would
+sell us all the food we required.
+
+The Manyuema country is all surpassingly beautiful. Palms crown the
+highest heights of the mountains, and their gracefully bended fronds
+wave beautifully in the wind; and the forests, usually about five miles
+broad, between groups of villages, are indescribable. Climbers of cable
+size in great numbers are hung among the gigantic trees, many unknown
+wild fruits abound, some the size of a child's head, and strange birds
+and monkeys are everywhere. The soil is excessively rich, and the
+people, although isolated by old feuds that are never settled,
+cultivate largely. They have selected a kind of maize that bends its
+fruit-stalk round into a hook, and hedges some eighteen feet high are
+made by inserting poles, which sprout like Robinson Crusoe's hedge, and
+never decay. Lines of climbing plants are tied so as to go along from
+pole to pole, and the maize cobs are suspended to these by their own
+hooked fruit-stalk. As the corn cob is forming, the hook is turned
+round, so that the fruit-leaves of it hang down and form a thatch for
+the grain beneath, or inside it. This upright granary forms a
+solid-looking, wall round the villages, and the people are not stingy,
+but take down maize and hand it to the men freely.
+
+The women are very naked. They bring loads of provisions to sell,
+through the rain, and are eager traders for beads. Plantains, cassava,
+and maize, are the chief food. The first rains had now begun, and the
+white ants took the hint to swarm and colonize.
+
+_6th, 7th, and 8th November, 1869._--We came to many large villages, and
+were variously treated; one headman presented me with a parrot, and on
+my declining it, gave it to one of my people; some ordered us off, but
+were coaxed to allow us to remain over night. They have no restraint;
+some came and pushed off the door of my hut with a stick while I was
+resting, as we should do with a wild-beast cage.
+
+Though reasonably willing to gratify curiosity, it becomes tiresome to
+be the victim of unlimited staring by the ugly, as well as by the
+good-looking. I can bear the women, but ugly males are uninteresting,
+and it is as much as I can stand when a crowd will follow me wherever I
+move. They have heard of Dugumbé Hassani's deeds, and are evidently
+suspicious of our intentions: they say, "If you have food at home, why
+come so far and spend your beads to buy it here?" If it is replied, on
+the strength of some of Mohamad's people being present, "We want to buy
+ivory too;" not knowing its value they think that this is a mere
+subterfuge to plunder them. Much palm-wine to-day at different parts
+made them incapable of reasoning further; they seemed inclined to fight,
+but after a great deal of talk we departed without collision.
+
+_9th November, 1869._--We came to villages where all were civil, but
+afterwards arrived where there were other palm-trees and palm-toddy, and
+people low and disagreeable in consequence. The mountains all around are
+grand, and tree-covered. I saw a man with two great great toes: the
+double toe is usually a little one.
+
+_11th November, 1869._--We had heard that the Manyuema were eager to buy
+slaves, but that meant females only to make wives of them: they prefer
+goats to men. Mohamad had bought slaves in Lunda in order to get ivory
+from these Manyuema, but inquiry here and elsewhere brought it out
+plainly that they would rather let the ivory lie unused or rot than
+invest in male slaves, who are generally criminals--at least in Lunda. I
+advised my friend to desist from buying slaves who would all "eat off
+their own heads," but he knew better than to buy copper, and on our
+return he acknowledged that I was right.
+
+_15th November, 1869._--We came into a country where Dugumbé's slaves
+had maltreated the people greatly, and they looked on us as of the same
+tribe, and we had much trouble in consequence. The country is swarming
+with villages. Hassani of Dugumbé got the chief into debt, and then
+robbed him of ten men and ten goats to clear off the debt: The Dutch did
+the same in the south of Africa.
+
+_17th November, 1869._--Copious rains brought us to a halt at Muana
+Balangé's, on the banks of the Luamo River. Moerekurambo had died
+lately, and his substitute took seven goats to the chiefs on the other
+side in order to induce them to come in a strong party and attack us for
+Hassani's affair.
+
+_20th to 25th November, 1869._--We were now only about ten miles from
+the confluence of the Luamo and Lualaba, but all the people had been
+plundered, and some killed by the slaves of Dugumbé. The Luamo is here
+some 200 yards broad and deep; the chiefs everywhere were begged to
+refuse us a passage. The women were particularly outspoken in asserting
+our identity with the cruel strangers, and when one lady was asked in
+the midst of her vociferation just to look if I were of the same colour
+with Dugumbé, she replied with a bitter little laugh, "Then you must be
+his father!"
+
+It was of no use to try to buy a canoe, for all were our enemies. It was
+now the rainy season, and I had to move with great caution. The worst
+our enemies did, after trying to get up a war in vain, was to collect as
+we went by in force fully armed with their large spears and huge wooden
+shields, and show us out of their districts. All are kind except those
+who have been abused by the Arab slaves. While waiting at Luamo a man,
+whom we sent over to buy food, got into a panic and fled he knew not
+whither; all concluded that he had been murdered, but some Manyuema whom
+we had never seen found him, fed him, and brought him home unscathed: I
+was very glad that no collision had taken place. We returned to Bambarré
+19th December, 1869.
+
+_20th December, 1869._--While we were away a large horde of Ujijians
+came to Bambarré, all eager to reach the cheap ivory, of which a rumour
+had spread far and wide; they numbered 500 guns, and invited Mohamad to
+go with them, but he preferred waiting for my return from the west. We
+now resolved to go due north; he to buy ivory, and I to reach another
+part of the Lualaba and buy a canoe.
+
+Wherever the dense primeval forest has been cleared off by man, gigantic
+grasses usurp the clearances. None of the sylvan vegetation can stand
+the annual grass-burnings except a species of Bauhinia, and occasionally
+a large tree which sends out new wood below the burned places. The
+parrots build thereon, and the men make a stair up 150 feet by tying
+climbing plants (called Binayoba) around, at about four feet distance,
+as steps: near the confluence of the Luamo, men build huts on this same
+species of tree for safety against the arrows of their enemies.
+
+_21st December, 1869._--The strong thick grass of the clearances dries
+down to the roots at the surface of the soil, and fire does it no harm.
+Though a few of the great old burly giants brave the fires, none of the
+climbers do: they disappear, but the plants themselves are brought out
+of the forests and ranged along the plantations like wire fences to keep
+wild beasts off; the poles of these vegetable wire hedges often take
+root, as also those in stages for maize.
+
+_22nd, 23rd, and 24th December, 1869._--Mohamad presented a goat to be
+eaten on our Christmas. I got large copper bracelets made of my copper
+by Manyuema smiths, for they are considered very valuable, and have
+driven iron bracelets quite out of fashion.
+
+_25th December, 1869._--We start immediately after Christmas: I must try
+with all my might to finish my exploration before next Christmas.
+
+_26th December, 1869._--I get fever severely, and was down all day, but
+we march, as I have always found that moving is the best remedy for
+fever: I have, however, no medicine whatever. We passed over the neck of
+Mount Kinyima, north-west of Moenékuss, through very slippery forest,
+and encamped on the banks of the Lulwa Rivulet.
+
+_28th December, 1869._--Away to Monangoi's village, near the Luamo
+River, here 150 or more yards wide and deep. A man passed us, bearing a
+human finger wrapped in a leaf; it was to be used as a charm, and
+belonged to a man killed in revenge: the Arabs all took this as clear
+evidence of cannibalism: I hesitated, however, to believe it.
+
+_29th, 30th, and 31st December, 1869._--Heavy rains. The Luamo is called
+the Luassé above this. We crossed in canoes.
+
+_1st January, 1870._--May the Almighty help me to finish, the work in
+hand, and retire through the Basango before the year is out. Thanks for
+all last year's loving kindness.
+
+Our course was due north, with the Luassé flowing in a gently undulating
+green country on our right, and rounded mountains in Mbongo's country on
+our left.
+
+_2nd January, 1870._--Rested a day at Mbongo's, as the people were
+honest.
+
+_3rd January, 1870._--Reached a village at the edge of a great forest,
+where the people were excited and uproarious, but not ill-bred, they ran
+alongside the path with us shouting and making energetic remarks to each
+other about us. A newly-married couple stood in a village where we
+stopped to inquire the way, with arms around each other very lovingly,
+and no one joked or poked fun at them. We marched five hours through
+forest and crossed three rivulets and much stagnant water which the sun
+by the few rays he darts in cannot evaporate. We passed several huge
+traps for elephants: they are constructed thus--a log of heavy wood,
+about 20 feet long, has a hole at one end for a climbing plant to pass
+through and suspend it, at the lower end a mortice is cut out of the
+side, and a wooden lance about 2 inches broad by 1-1/2 thick, and about
+4 feet long, is inserted firmly in the mortice; a latch down on the
+ground, when touched by the animal's foot, lets the beam run down on to
+his body, and the great weight of the wood drives in the lance and kills
+the animal. I saw one lance which had accidentally fallen, and it had
+gone into the stiff clay soil two feet.
+
+_4th January, 1870._--- The villagers we passed were civil, but like
+noisy children, all talked and gazed. When surrounded by 300 or 400,
+some who have not been accustomed to the ways of wild men think that a
+fight is imminent; but, poor things, no attack is thought of, if it does
+not begin on our side. Many of Mohamad's people were dreadfully afraid
+of being killed and eaten; one man out in search of ivory seemed to have
+lost sight of his companions, for they saw him running with all his
+might to a forest with no path in it; he was searched for for several
+days, and was given up as a murdered man, a victim of the cannibal
+Manyuema! On the seventh day after he lost his head, he was led into
+camp by a headman, who not only found him wandering but fed and lodged
+and restored him to his people.
+
+[With reference to the above we may add that nothing can exceed the
+terror in which cannibal nations are held by other African tribes. It
+was common on the River Shiré to hear Manganja and Ajawa people speak of
+tribes far away to the north who eat human bodies, and on every occasion
+the fact was related with the utmost horror and disgust.]
+
+The women here plait the hair into the form of a basket behind; it is
+first rolled into a very long coil, then wound round something till it
+is about 8 or 10 inches long, projecting from the back of the head.
+
+_5th, 6th, and 7th January, 1870._--Wettings by rain and grass
+overhanging our paths, with bad water, brought on choleraic symptoms;
+and opium from Mohamad had no effect in stopping it: he, too, had
+rheumatism. On suspecting the water as the cause, I had all I used
+boiled, and this was effectual, but I was greatly reduced in flesh, and
+so were many of our party.
+
+We proceeded nearly due north, through wilderness and many villages and
+running rills; the paths are often left to be choked up by the
+overbearing vegetation, and then the course of the rill is adopted as
+the only clear passage; it has also this advantage, it prevents
+footmarks being followed by enemies: in fact the object is always to
+make approaches to human dwellings as difficult as possible, even the
+hedges around villages sprout out and grow a living fence, and this is
+covered by a great mass of a species of calabash with its broad leaves,
+so that nothing appears of the fence outside.
+
+_11th January, 1870._--The people are civil, but uproarious from the
+excitement of having never seen strangers before; all visitors from a
+distance came with their large wooden shields; many of the men are
+handsome and tall but the women are plainer than at Bambarré.
+
+_12th January, 1870._--Cross the Lolindé, 35 yards and knee deep,
+flowing to join Luamo far down: dark water. (_13th._) Through the hills
+Chimunémuné; we see many albinos and partial lepers and syphilis is
+prevalent. It is too trying to travel during the rains.
+
+_14th January, 1870._--The Muabé palm had taken possession of a broad
+valley, and the leaf-stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm and 20 feet
+long, had fallen off and blocked up all passage except by one path made
+and mixed up by the feet of buffaloes and elephants. In places like this
+the leg goes into elephants' holes up to the thigh and it is grievous;
+three hours of this slough tired the strongest: a brown stream ran
+through the centre, waist deep, and washed off a little of the adhesive
+mud. Our path now lay through a river covered with tikatika, a living
+vegetable bridge made by a species of glossy leafed grass which felts
+itself into a mat capable of bearing a man's weight, but it bends in a
+foot or fifteen inches every step; a stick six feet long could not reach
+the bottom in certain holes we passed. The lotus, or sacred lily, which
+grows in nearly all the shallow waters of this country, sometimes
+spreads its broad leaves over the bridge so as to lead careless
+observers to think that it is the bridge builder, but the grass
+mentioned is the real agent. Here it is called Kintéfwétéfwé; on
+Victoria Nyanza Titatika.
+
+_15th January, 1870._--Choleraic purging again came on till all the
+water used was boiled, but I was laid up by sheer weakness near the hill
+Chanza.
+
+_20th and 21st January. 1870._--Weakness and illness goes on because we
+get wet so often; the whole party suffers, and they say that they will
+never come here again. The Manyango Rivulet has fine sweet water, but
+the whole country is smothered with luxuriant vegetation.
+
+_27th, 29th, and 30th January, 1870._--Rest from sickness in camp. The
+country is indescribable from rank jungle of grass, but the rounded
+hills are still pretty; an elephant alone can pass through it--these are
+his head-quarters. The stalks are from half an inch to an inch and a
+half in diameter, reeds clog the feet, and the leaves rub sorely on the
+face and eyes: the view is generally shut in by this megatherium grass,
+except when we come to a slope down to a valley or the bed of a rill.
+
+We came to a village among fine gardens of maize, bananas, ground-nuts,
+and cassava, but the villagers said, "Go on to next village;" and this
+meant, "We don't want you here." The main body of Mohamad's people was
+about three miles before us, but I was so weak I sat down in the next
+hamlet and asked for a hut to rest in. A woman with leprous hands gave
+me hers, a nice clean one, and very heavy rain came on: of her own
+accord she prepared dumplings of green maize, pounded and boiled; which
+are sweet, for she said that she saw I was hungry. It was excessive
+weakness from purging, and seeing that I did not eat for fear of the
+leprosy, she kindly pressed me: "Eat, you are weak only from hunger;
+this will strengthen you." I put it out of her sight, and blessed her
+motherly heart.
+
+I had ere this come to the conclusion that I ought not to risk myself
+further in the rains in my present weakness, for it may result in
+something worse, as in Marungu and Liemba.
+
+The horde mentioned as having passed Bambarré was now somewhere in our
+vicinity, and it was impossible to ascertain from the Manyuema where the
+Lualaba lay.
+
+In going north on 1st February we came to some of this horde belonging
+to Katomba or Moene-mokaia, who stated that the leader was anxious for
+advice as to crossing Lualaba and future movements. He supposed that
+this river was seven days in front of him, and twelve days in front of
+us. It is a puzzle from its north-westing and low level: it is possibly
+Petherick's Bahr Ghazal. Could get no latitude.
+
+_2nd February, 1870._--I propose to cross it, and buy an exploring
+canoe, because I am recovering my strength; but we now climb over the
+bold hills Bininango, and turn south-west towards Katomba to take
+counsel: he knows more than anyone else about the country, and his
+people being now scattered everywhere seeking ivory, I do not relish
+their company.
+
+_3rd February, 1870._--Caught in a drenching rain, which made me fain to
+sit, exhausted as I was, under an umbrella for an hour trying to keep
+the trunk dry. As I sat in the rain a little tree-frog, about half an
+inch long, leaped on to a grassy leaf, and began a tune as loud as that
+of many birds, and very sweet; it was surprising to hear so much music
+out of so small a musician. I drank some rain-water as I felt faint--in
+the paths it is now calf deep. I crossed a hundred yards of slush waist
+deep in mid channel, and full of holes made by elephants' feet, the path
+hedged in by reedy grass, often intertwined and very tripping. I
+stripped off my clothes on reaching my hut in a village, and a fire
+during night nearly dried them. At the same time I rubbed my legs with
+palm oil, and in the morning had a delicious breakfast of sour goat's
+milk and porridge.
+
+_5th February, 1870._--The drenching told on me sorely, and it was
+repeated after we had crossed the good-sized rivulets Mulunkula and many
+villages, and I lay on an enormous boulder under a Muabé palm, and slept
+during the worst of the pelting. I was seven days southing to Mamohela,
+Katomba's camp, and quite knocked up and exhausted. I went into winter
+quarters on 7th February, 1870.
+
+_7th February, 1870._--This was the camp of the headman of the ivory
+horde now away for ivory. Katomba, as Moene-mokaia is called, was now all
+kindness. We were away from his Ujijian associates, and he seemed to
+follow his natural bent without fear of the other slave-traders, who all
+hate to see me as a spy on their proceedings. Rest, shelter, and boiling
+all the water I used, and above all the new species of potato called
+Nyumbo, much famed among the natives as restorative, soon put me all to
+rights. Katomba supplied me liberally with nyumbo; and, but for a
+slightly medicinal taste, which is got rid of by boiling in two waters,
+this vegetable would be equal to English potatoes.
+
+_11th February, 1870._--First of all it was proposed to go off to the
+Lualaba in the north-west, in order to procure _Holcus sorghum_ or dura
+flour, that being, in Arab opinion, nearly equal to wheat, or as they
+say "heating," while the maize flour we were obliged to use was cold or
+cooling.
+
+_13th February, 1870._--I was too ill to go through mud waist deep, so I
+allowed Mohamad (who was suffering much) to go away alone in search of
+ivory. As stated above, shelter and nyumbo proved beneficial.
+
+_22nd February, 1870._--Falls between Vira and Baker's Water seen by
+Wanyamwezi. This confirms my conjecture on finding Lualaba at a lower
+level than Tanganyika. Bin Habib went to fight the Batusi, but they were
+too strong, and he turned.
+
+_1st March, 1870._--Visited my Arab friends in their camp for the first
+time to-day. This is Kasessa's country, and the camp is situated between
+two strong rivulets, while Mamohela is the native name, Mount Bombola
+stands two miles from it north, and Mount Bolunkela is north-east the
+same distance. Wood, water, and grass, the requisites of a camp abound,
+and the Manyuema bring large supplies of food every day; forty large
+baskets of maize for a goat; fowls and bananas and nyumbo very cheap.
+
+_25th March, 1870._--Iron bracelets are the common medium of exchange,
+and coarse beads and cowries: for a copper bracelet three large fowls
+are given, and three and a half baskets of maize; one basket three feet
+high is a woman's load, and they are very strong.
+
+The Wachiogoné are a scattered tribe among the Maarabo or Suaheli, but
+they retain their distinct identity as a people.
+
+The Mamba fish has breasts with milk, and utters a cry; its flesh is
+very white, it is not the crocodile which goes by the same name, but is
+probably the Dugong or Peixe Mulher of the Portuguese(?). Full-grown
+leeches come on the surface in this wet country.
+
+Some of Katomba's men returned with forty-three tusks. An animal with
+short horns and of a reddish colour is in the north; it is not known to
+the Arabs(?).
+
+Joseph, an Arab from Oman, says that the Simoom is worse in Sham
+(Yemen?) than in Oman: it blows for three or four hours. Butter eaten
+largely is the remedy against its ill effects, and this is also smeared
+on the body: in Oman a wetted cloth is put over the head, body, and
+legs, while this wind blows.
+
+_1st May, 1870._--An elephant was killed which had three tusks; all of
+good size.[7]
+
+Rains continued; and mud and mire from the clayey soil of Manyuema were
+too awful to be attempted.
+
+_24th May, 1870._--I sent to Bambarré for the cloth and beads I left
+there. A party of Thani's people came south and said that they had
+killed forty Manyuema, and lost four of theirown number; nine villages
+were burned, and all this about a single string of beads which a man
+tried to steal!
+
+_June, 1870._--Mohamad bin Nassur and Akila's men brought 116 tusks from
+the north, where the people are said to be all good and obliging:
+Akila's chief man had a large deep ulcer on the foot from the mud. When
+we had the people here, Kassessa gave ten goats and one tusk to hire
+them to avenge a feud in which his elder brother was killed, and they
+went; the spoils secured were 31 captives, 60 goats, and about 40
+Manyuema killed: one slave of the attacking party was killed, and two
+badly wounded. Thani's man, Yahood, who was leader in the other case of
+40 killed, boasted before me of the deed. I said, "You were sent here
+not to murder, but to trade;" he replied, "We are sent to murder." Bin
+Nassur said, "The English are always killing people;" I replied, "Yes,
+but only slavers who do the deeds that were done yesterday."
+
+Various other tribes sent large presents to the Arabs to avert assaults,
+and tusks too were offered.
+
+The rains had continued into June, and fifty-eight inches fell.
+
+_26th June, 1870._--Now my people failed me; so, with only three
+attendants, Susi, Chuma, and Gardner, I started off to the north-west
+for the Lualaba. The numbers of running rivulets to be crossed were
+surprising, and at each, for some forty yards, the path had been worked
+by the feet of passengers into adhesive mud: we crossed fourteen in one
+day--some thigh deep; most of them run into the Liya, which we crossed,
+and it flows to the Lualaba. We passed through many villages, for the
+paths all lead through human dwellings. Many people presented bananas,
+and seemed surprised when I made a small return gift; one man ran after
+me with a sugar-cane; I paid for lodgings too: here the Arabs never do.
+
+_28th June, 1870._--The driver ants were in millions in some part of
+the way; on this side of the continent they seem less fierce than I have
+found them in the west.
+
+_29th June, 1870._--At one village musicians with calabashes, having
+holes in them, flute-fashion, tried to please me by their vigorous
+acting, and by beating drums in time.
+
+_30th June, 1870._--We passed through the nine villages burned for a
+single string of beads, and slept in the village of Malola.
+
+_July, 1870._--While I was sleeping quietly here, some trading Arabs
+camped at Nasangwa's, and at dead of night one was pinned to the earth
+by a spear; no doubt this was in revenge for relations slain in the
+forty mentioned: the survivors now wished to run a muck in all
+directions against the Manyuema.
+
+When I came up I proposed to ask the chief if he knew the assassin, and
+he replied that he was not sure of him, for he could only conjecture who
+it was; but death to all Manyuemas glared from the eyes of half-castes
+and slaves. Fortunately, before this affair was settled in their way, I
+met Mohamad Bogharib coming back from Kasonga's, and he joined in
+enforcing peace: the traders went off, but let my three people know,
+what I knew long before, that they hated having a spy in me on their
+deeds. I told some of them who were civil tongued that ivory obtained by
+bloodshed was unclean evil--"unlucky" as they say: my advice to them
+was, "Don't shed human blood, my friends; it has guilt not to be wiped
+off by water." Off they went; and afterwards the bloodthirsty party got
+only one tusk and a half, while another party, which avoided shooting
+men, got fifty-four tusks!
+
+From Mohamad's people I learned that the Lualaba was not in the N.W.
+course I had pursued, for in fact it flows W.S.W. in another great bend,
+and they had gone far to the north without seeing it, but the country
+was exceedingly difficult from forest and water. As I had already seen,
+trees fallen across the path formed a breast-high wall which had to be
+climbed over: flooded rivers, breast and neck deep, had to be crossed,
+the mud was awful, and nothing but villages eight or ten miles apart.
+
+In the clearances around these villages alone could the sun be seen. For
+the first time in my life my feet failed me, and now having but three
+attendants it would have been unwise to go further in that direction.
+Instead of healing quietly as heretofore, when torn by hard travel,
+irritable-eating ulcers fastened on both feet; and I limped back to
+Bambarré on 22nd.
+
+The accounts of Ramadân (who was desired by me to take notes as he went
+in the forest) were discouraging, and made me glad I did not go. At one
+part, where the tortuous river was flooded, they were five hours in the
+water, and a man in a small canoe went before them sounding for places
+not too deep for them, breast and chin deep, and Hassani fell and hurt
+himself sorely in a hole. The people have goats and sheep, and love them
+as they do children.
+
+[Fairly baffled by the difficulties in his way, and sorely troubled by
+the demoralised state of his men, who appear not to have been proof
+against the contaminating presence of the Arabs, the Doctor turns back
+at this point.]
+
+_6th July, 1870._--Back to Mamohela, and welcomed by the Arabs, who all
+approved of my turning back. Katomba presented abundant provisions for
+all the way to Bambarré. Before we reached this, Mohamad made a forced
+march, and Moene-mokaia's people came out drunk: the Arabs assaulted
+them, and they ran off.
+
+_23rd July, 1870._--The sores on my feet now laid me up as
+irritable-eating ulcers. If the foot were put to the ground, a discharge
+of bloody ichor flowed, and the same discharge happened every night with
+considerable pain, that prevented sleep: the wailing of the slaves
+tortured with these sores is one of the night sounds of a slave-camp:
+they eat through everything--muscle, tendon, and bone, and often lame
+permanently if they do not kill the poor things. Medicines have very
+little effect on such wounds: their periodicity seems to say that they
+are allied to fever. The Arabs make a salve of bees'-wax and sulphate of
+copper, and this applied hot, and held on by a bandage affords support,
+but the necessity of letting the ichor escape renders it a painful
+remedy: I had three ulcers, and no medicine. The native plan of support
+by means of a stiff leaf or bit of calabash was too irritating, and so
+they continued to eat in and enlarge in spite of everything: the
+vicinity was hot, and the pain increased with the size of the wound.
+
+_2nd August, 1870._--An eclipse at midnight: the Moslems called loudly
+on Moses. Very cold.
+
+On _17th August, 1870,_ Monanyembé, the chief who was punished by
+Mohamad Bogharib, lately came bringing two goats; one he gave to
+Mohamad, the other to Moenékuss' son, acknowledging that he had killed
+his elder brother: he had killed eleven persons over at Linamo in our
+absence, in addition to those killed in villages on our S.E. when we
+were away. It transpired that Kandahara, brother of old Moenékuss, whose
+village is near this, killed three women and a child, and that a trading
+man came over from Kasangangayé, and was murdered too, for no reason but
+to eat his body. Mohamad ordered old Kandahara to bring ten goats and
+take them over to Kasangangayé to pay for the murdered man. When they
+tell of each other's deeds they disclose a horrid state of bloodthirsty
+callousness. The people over a hill N.N.E. of this killed a person out
+hoeing; if a cultivator is alone, he is almost sure of being slain. Some
+said that people in the vicinity, or hyænas, stole the buried dead; but
+Posho's wife died, and in Wanyamesi fashion was thrown out of camp
+unburied. Mohamad threatened an attack if Manyuema did not cease
+exhuming the dead; it was effectual, neither men nor hyænas touched
+her, though exposed now for seven days.
+
+The head of Moenékuss is said to be preserved in a pot in his house, and
+all public matters are gravely communicated to it, as if his spirit
+dwelt therein: his body was eaten, the flesh was removed from the head
+and eaten too; his father's head is said to be kept also: the foregoing
+refers to Bambarré alone. In other districts graves show that sepulture
+is customary, but here no grave appears: some admit the existence of the
+practice here; others deny it. In the Metamba country adjacent to the
+Lualaba, a quarrel with a wife often ends in the husband killing her and
+eating her heart, mixed up in a huge mess of goat's flesh: this has the
+charm character. Fingers are taken as charms in other parts, but in
+Bambarré alone is the depraved taste the motive for cannibalism.
+
+_Bambarré, 18th August, 1870._--I learn from Josut and Moenepembé, who
+have been to Katañga and beyond, that there is a Lake N.N.W. of the
+copper mines, and twelve days distant; it is called Chibungo, and is
+said to be large. Seven days west of Katañga flows another Lualaba,
+the dividing line between Rua and Lunda or Londa; it is very large,
+and as the Lufira flows into Chibungo, it is probable that the Lualaba
+West and the Lufira form the Lake. Lualaba West and Lufira rise by
+fountains south of Katañga, three or four days off. Luambai and Lunga
+fountains are only about ten miles distant from Lualaba West and
+Lufira fountains: a mound rises between them, the most remarkable in
+Africa. Were this spot in Armenia it would serve exactly the
+description of the garden of Eden in Genesis, with its four rivers,
+the Gihon, Pison, Hiddekel, and Euphrates; as it is, it possibly gave
+occasion to the story told to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva in
+the City of Saïs, about two hills with conical tops, Crophi and Mophi.
+"Midway between them," said he, "are the fountains of the Nile,
+fountains which it is impossible to fathom: half the water runs
+northward into Egypt; half to the south towards Ethiopia."
+
+Four fountains rising so near to each other would readily be supposed to
+have one source, and half the water flowing into the Nile and the other
+half to the Zambesi, required but little imagination to originate,
+seeing the actual visitor would not feel bound to say how the division
+was effected. He could only know the fact of waters rising at one spot,
+and separating to flow north and south. The conical tops to the mound
+look like invention, as also do the names.
+
+A slave, bought on Lualaba East, came from Lualaba West in about twelve
+days: these two Lualabas may form the loop depicted by Ptolemy, and
+upper and lower Tanganyika be a third arm of the Nile.
+
+Patience is all I can exercise: these irritable ulcers hedge me in now,
+as did my attendants in June, but all will be for the best, for it is in
+Providence and not in me.
+
+The watershed is between 700 and 800 miles long from west to east, or
+say from 22° or 23° to 34° or 35° East longitude. Parts of it are
+enormous sponges; in other parts innumerable rills unite into rivulets,
+which again form rivers--Lufira, for instance, has nine rivulets, and
+Lekulwé other nine. The convex surface of the rose of a garden
+watering-can is a tolerably apt similitude, as the rills do not spring
+off the face of it, and it is 700 miles across the circle; but in the
+numbers of rills coming out at different heights on the slope, there is
+a faint resemblance, and I can at present think of no other example.
+
+I am a little thankful to old Nile for so hiding his head that all
+"theoretical discoverers" are left out in the cold. With all real
+explorers I have a hearty sympathy, and I have some regret at being
+obliged, in a manner compelled, to speak somewhat disparagingly of the
+opinions formed by my predecessors. The work of Speke and Grant is part
+of the history of this region, and since the discovery of the sources
+of the Nile was asserted so positively, it seems necessary to explain,
+not offensively, I hope, wherein their mistake lay, in making a somewhat
+similar claim. My opinions may yet be shown to be mistaken too, but at
+present I cannot conceive how. When Speke discovered Victoria Nyanza in
+1858, he at once concluded that therein lay the sources of the Nile. His
+work after that was simply following a foregone conclusion, and as soon
+as he and Grant looked towards the Victoria Nyanza, they turned their
+backs on the Nile fountains; so every step of their splendid achievement
+of following the river down took them further and further away from the
+Caput Nili. When it was perceived that the little river that leaves the
+Nyanza, though they called it the White Nile, would not account for that
+great river, they might have gone west and found headwaters (as the
+Lualaba) to which it can bear no comparison. Taking their White Nile at
+80 or 90 yards, or say 100 yards broad, the Lualaba, far south of the
+latitude of its point of departure, shows an average breadth of from
+4000 to 6000 yards, and always deep.
+
+Considering that more than sixteen hundred years have elapsed since
+Ptolemy put down the results of early explorers, and emperors, kings,
+philosophers--all the great men of antiquity in short longed to know the
+fountains whence flowed the famous river, and longed in
+vain--exploration does not seem to have been very becoming to the other
+sex either. Madame Tinné came further up the river than the centurions
+sent by Nero Cæsar, and showed such indomitable pluck as to reflect
+honour on her race. I know nothing about her save what has appeared in
+the public papers, but taking her exploration along with what was done
+by Mrs. Baker, no long time could have elapsed before the laurels for
+the modern re-discovery of the sources of the Nile should have been
+plucked by the ladies. In 1841 the Egyptian Expedition under D'Arnauld
+and Sabatier reached lat. 4° 42': this was a great advance into the
+interior as compared with Linant in 1827, 13° 30' N., and even on the
+explorations of Jomard(?); but it turned when nearly a thousand miles
+from the sources.
+
+[The subjoined account of the soko--which is in all probability an
+entirely new species of chimpanzee, and _not_ the gorilla, is
+exceedingly interesting, and no doubt Livingstone had plenty of stories
+from which to select. Neither Susi nor Chuma can identify the soko of
+Manyuema with the gorilla, as we have it stuffed in the British Museum.
+They think, however, that the soko is quite as large and as strong as
+the gorilla, judging by the specimens shown to them, although they could
+have decided with greater certainty, if the natives had not invariably
+brought in the dead sokos disembowelled; as they point out, and as we
+imagine from Dr. Livingstone's description, the carcase would then
+appear much less bulky. Livingstone gives an animated sketch of a soko
+hunt.]
+
+_24th August, 1870._--Four gorillas or sokos were killed yesterday: an
+extensive grass-burning forced them out of their usual haunt, and coming
+on the plain they were speared. They often go erect, but place the hand
+on the head, as if to steady the body. When seen thus, the soko is an
+ungainly beast. The most sentimental young lady would not call him a
+"dear," but a bandy-legged, pot-bellied, low-looking villain, without a
+particle of the gentleman in him. Other animals, especially the
+antelopes, are graceful, and it is pleasant to see them, either at rest
+or in motion: the natives also are well made, lithe and comely to
+behold, but the soko, if large, would do well to stand for a picture of
+the Devil.
+
+He takes away my appetite by his disgusting bestiality of appearance.
+His light-yellow face shows off his ugly whiskers, and faint apology for
+a beard; the forehead villainously low, with high ears, is well in the
+back-ground of the great dog-mouth; the teeth are slightly human, but
+the canines show the beast by their large development. The hands, or
+rather the fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh of the feet
+is yellow, and the eagerness with which the Manyuema devour it leaves
+the impression that eating sokos was the first stage by which they
+arrived at being cannibals; they say the flesh is delicious. The soko is
+represented by some to be extremely knowing, successfully stalking men
+and women while at their work, kidnapping children, and running up trees
+with them--he seems to be amused by the sight of the young native in his
+arms, but comes down when tempted by a bunch of bananas, and as he lifts
+that, drops the child: the young soko in such a case would cling closely
+to the armpit of the elder. One man was cutting out honey from a tree,
+and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared and caught him, then let him
+go: another man was hunting, and missed in his attempt to stab a soko:
+it seized the spear and broke it, then grappled with the man, who called
+to his companions, "Soko has caught me," the soko bit off the ends of
+his fingers and escaped unharmed. Both men are now alive at Bambarré.
+
+The soko is so cunning, and has such sharp eyes, that no one can stalk
+him in front without being seen, hence, when shot, it is always in the
+back; when surrounded by men and nets, he is generally speared in the
+back too, otherwise he is not a very formidable beast: he is nothing, as
+compared in power of damaging his assailant, to a leopard or lion, but
+is more like a man unarmed, for it does not occur to him to use his
+canine teeth, which are long and formidable. Numbers of them come down
+in the forest, within a hundred yards of our camp, and would be unknown
+but for giving tongue like fox-hounds: this is their nearest approach to
+speech. A man hoeing was stalked by a soko, and seized; he roared out,
+but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him as if he had done it in
+play. A child caught up by a soko is often abused by being pinched and
+scratched, and let fall.
+
+The soko kills the leopard occasionally, by seizing both paws, and
+biting them so as to disable them, he then goes up a tree, groans over
+his wounds, and sometimes recovers, while the leopard dies: at other
+times, both soko and leopard die. The lion kills him at once, and
+sometimes tears his limbs off, but does not eat him. The soko eats no
+flesh--small bananas are his dainties, but not maize. His food consists
+of wild fruits, which abound: one, Staféné, or Manyuema Mamwa, is like
+large sweet sop but indifferent in taste and flesh. The soko brings
+forth at times twins. A very large soko was seen by Mohamad's hunters
+sitting picking his nails; they tried to stalk him, but he vanished.
+Some Manyuema think that their buried dead rise as sokos, and one was
+killed with holes in his ears, as if he had been a man. He is very
+strong and fears guns but not spears: he never catches women.
+
+Sokos collect together, and make a drumming noise, some say with hollow
+trees, then burst forth into loud yells which are well imitated by the
+natives' embryotic music. If a man has no spear the soko goes away
+satisfied, but if wounded he seizes the wrist, lops off the fingers, and
+spits them out, slaps the cheeks of his victim, and bites without
+breaking the skin: he draws out a spear (but never uses it), and takes
+some leaves and stuffs them into his wound to staunch the blood; he does
+not wish an encounter with an armed man. He sees women do him no harm,
+and never molests them; a man without a spear is nearly safe from him.
+They beat hollow trees as drums with hands, and then scream as music to
+it; when men hear them, they go to the sokos; but sokos never go to men
+with hostility. Manyuema say, "Soko is a man, and nothing bad in him."
+
+They live in communities of about ten, each having his own female; an
+intruder from another camp is beaten off with their fists and loud
+yells. If one tries to seize the female of another, he is caught on the
+ground, and all unite in boxing and biting the offender. A male often
+carries a child, especially if they are passing from one patch of forest
+to another over a grassy space; he then gives it to the mother.
+
+I now spoke with my friend Mohamad, and he offered to go with me to see
+Lualaba from Luamo, but I explained that merely to see and measure its
+depth would not do, I must see whither it went. This would require a
+number of his people in lieu of my deserters, and to take them away from
+his ivory trade, which at present is like gold digging, I must make
+amends, and I offered him 2000 rupees, and a gun worth 700 rupees, R.
+2700 in all, or 270_l._ He agreed, and should he enable me to finish up
+my work in one trip down Lualaba, and round to Lualaba West, it would be
+a great favour.
+
+[How severely he felt the effects of the terrible illnesses of the last
+two years may be imagined by some few words here, and it must ever be
+regretted that the conviction which he speaks of was not acted up to.]
+
+The severe pneumonia in Marunga, the choleraic complaint in Manyuema,
+and now irritable ulcers warn me to retire while life lasts. Mohamad's
+people went north, and east, and west, from Kasonga's: sixteen marches
+north, ten ditto west, and four ditto E. and S.E. The average march was
+6-1/2 hours, say 12' about 200' N. and W., lat. of Kasongo, say 4°
+south. They may have reached 1°, 2° S. They were now in the Baléggé
+country, and turned. It was all dense forest, they never saw the sun
+except when at a village, and then the villages were too far apart. The
+people were very fond of sheep, which they call ngombé, or ox, and tusks
+are never used. They went off to where an elephant had formerly been
+killed, and brought the tusks rotted and eaten or gnawed by "Déré" (?)--a
+Rodent, probably the _Aulocaudatus Swindermanus_. Three large rivers
+were crossed, breast and chin deep; in one they were five hours, and a
+man in a small canoe went ahead sounding for water capable of being
+waded. Much water and mud in the forest. This report makes me thankful I
+did not go, for I should have seen nothing, and been worn out by fatigue
+and mud. They tell me that the River Metunda had black water, and took
+two hours to cross it, breast deep. They crossed about forty smaller
+rivers over the River Mohunga, breast deep. The River of Mbité also is
+large. All along Lualaba and Metumbé the sheep have hairy dew-laps, no
+wool, Tartar breed (?), small thin tails.
+
+A broad belt of meadow-land, with no trees, lies along Lualaba, beyond
+that it is all dense forest, and trees so large, that one lying across
+the path is breast high: clearances exist only around the villages. The
+people are very expert smiths and weavers of the "Lamba," and make fine
+large spears, knives, and needles. Market-places, called "Tokos," are
+numerous all along Lualaba; to these the Barua of the other bank come
+daily in large canoes, bringing grass-cloth, salt, flour, cassava,
+fowls, goats, pigs, and slaves. The women are beautiful, with straight
+noses, and well-clothed; when the men of the districts are at war, the
+women take their goods to market as if at peace and are never molested:
+all are very keen traders, buying one thing with another, and changing
+back again, and any profit made is one of the enjoyments of life.
+
+I knew that my deserters hoped to be fed by Mohamad Bogharib when we
+left the camp at Mamohela, but he told them that he would not have them;
+this took them aback, but they went and lifted his ivory for him, and
+when a parley was thus brought about, talked him over, saying that they
+would go to me, and do all I desired: they never came, but, as no one
+else would take them, I gave them three loads to go to Bambarré; there
+they told Mohamad that I would not give them beads, and they did not
+like to steal; they were now trying to get his food by lies. I invited
+them three times to come and take beads, but having supplies of food
+from the camp women, they hoped to get the upper hand with me, and take
+what they liked by refusing to carry or work. Mohamad spoke long to
+them, but speaking mildly makes them imagine that the spokesman is
+afraid of them. They kept away from my work and would fain join
+Mohamad's, but he won't have them. I gave beads to all but the
+ringleaders. Their conduct looks as if a quarrel had taken place between
+us, but no such excuse have they.
+
+I am powerless, as they have left me, and think that they may do as they
+like, and the "Manyuema are bad" is the song. Their badness consists in
+being dreadfully afraid of guns, and the Arabs can do just as they like
+with them and their goods. If spears alone were used the Manyuema would
+be considered brave, for they fear no one, though he has many spears.
+They tell us truly "that were it not for our guns not one of us would
+return to our own country." Moene-mokaia killed two Arab agents, and took
+their guns; this success led to their asserting, in answer to the
+remonstrances of the women, "We shall take their goats, guns, and women
+from them." The chief, in reporting the matter to Moenemger(?) at Luamo,
+said, "The Englishman told my people to go away as he did not like
+fighting, but my men were filled with 'malofu,' or palm-toddy, and
+refused to their own hurt." Elsewhere they made regular preparation to
+have a fight with Dugumbé's people, just to see who was strongest--they
+with their spears and wooden shields, and the Arabs with what in
+derision they called tobacco-pipes (guns). They killed eight or nine
+Arabs.
+
+No traders seem ever to have come in before this. Banna brought copper
+and skins for tusks, and the Babisa and Baguha coarse beads. The Bavira
+are now enraged at seeing Ujijians pass into their ivory field, and no
+wonder; they took the tusks which cost them a few strings of beads, and
+received weight for weight in beads, thick brass wire, and loads of
+calico.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] Susi and Chuma say that the third tusk grew out from the base of
+the trunk, that is, midway between the other two.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of
+    comfort." Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird." The disease
+    "Safura."
+
+Bambarré, _25th August, 1870._--One of my waking dreams is that the
+legendary tales about Moses coming up into Inner Ethiopia with Merr his
+foster-mother, and founding a city which he called in her honour
+"Meroe," may have a substratum of fact. He was evidently a man of
+transcendent genius, and we learn from the speech of St. Stephen that
+"he was learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians, and was mighty in
+words and in deeds." His deeds must have been well known in Egypt, for
+"he supposed that his brethren would have understood how that God by His
+hand would deliver them, but they understood not." His supposition could
+not be founded on his success in smiting a single Egyptian; he was too
+great a man to be elated by a single act of prowess, but his success on
+a large scale in Ethiopia afforded reasonable grounds for believing that
+his brethren would be proud of their countryman, and disposed to follow
+his leadership, but they were slaves. The notice taken of the matter by
+Pharaoh showed that he was eyed by the great as a dangerous, if not
+powerful, man. He "dwelt" in Midian for some time before his gallant
+bearing towards the shepherds by the well, commended him to the priest
+or prince of the country. An uninteresting wife, and the want of
+intercourse with kindred spirits during the long forty years' solitude
+of a herdsman's life, seem to have acted injuriously on his spirits, and
+it was not till he had with Aaron struck terror into the Egyptian mind,
+that the "man Moses" again became "very great in the eyes of Pharaoh and
+his servants." The Ethiopian woman whom he married could scarcely be the
+daughter of Renel or Jethro, for Midian was descended from Keturah,
+Abraham's concubine, and they were never considered Cushite or
+Ethiopian. If he left his wife in Egypt she would now be some fifty or
+sixty years old, and all the more likely to be despised by the proud
+prophetess Miriam as a daughter of Ham.
+
+I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, and if anything
+confirmatory of sacred history does remain, I pray to be guided
+thereunto. If the sacred chronology would thereby be confirmed, I would
+not grudge the toil and hardships, hunger and pain, I have endured--the
+irritable ulcers would only be discipline.
+
+Above the fine yellow clay schist of Manyuema the banks of Tanganyika
+reveal 50 feet of shingle mixed with red earth; above this at some parts
+great boulders lie; after this 60 feet of fine clay schist, then 5
+strata of gravel underneath, with a foot stratum of schist between them.
+The first seam of gravel is about 2 feet, the second 4 feet, and the
+lowest of all about 30 feet thick. The fine schist was formed in still
+water, but the shingle must have been produced in stormy troubled seas
+if not carried hither and thither by ice and at different epochs.
+
+This Manyuema country is unhealthy, not so much from fever as from
+debility of the whole system, induced by damp, cold, and indigestion:
+this general weakness is ascribed by some to maize being the common
+food, it shows itself in weakness of bowels and choleraic purging. This
+may be owing to bad water, of which there is no scarcity, but it is so
+impregnated with dead vegetable matter as to have the colour of tea.
+Irritable ulcers fasten on any part abraded by accident, and it seems to
+be a spreading fungus, for the matter settling on any part near becomes
+a fresh centre of propagation. The vicinity of the ulcer is very tender,
+and it eats in frightfully if not allowed rest. Many slaves die of it,
+and its periodical discharges of bloody ichor makes me suspect it to be
+a development of fever. I have found lunar caustic useful: a plaister of
+wax, and a little finely-ground sulphate of copper is used by the Arabs,
+and so is cocoa-nut oil and butter. These ulcers are excessively
+intractable, there is no healing them before they eat into the bone,
+especially on the shins.
+
+Rheumatism is also common, and it cuts the natives off. The traders fear
+these diseases, and come to a stand if attacked, in order to use rest in
+the cure. "Taema," or Tape-worm, is frequently met with, and no remedy
+is known among the Arabs and natives for it.
+
+[Searching in his closely-written pocket-books we find many little
+mementoes of his travels; such, for instance, as two or three tsetse
+flies pressed between the leaves of one book; some bees, some leaves and
+moths in another, but, hidden away in the pocket of the note-book which
+Livingstone used during the longest and most painful illness he ever
+underwent lies a small scrap of printed paper which tells a tale in its
+own simple way. On one side there is written in his well-known hand:--]
+
+    "Turn over and see a drop of comfort found when suffering
+    from irritable eating ulcers on the feet in Manyuema,
+    August, 1870."
+
+[On the reverse we see that the scrap was evidently snipped off a list
+of books advertised at the end of some volume which, with the tea and
+other things sent to Ujiji, had reached him before setting out on this
+perilous journey. The "drop of comfort" is as follows:--]
+
+    "A NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESI AND ITS
+    TRIBUTARIES,
+
+    "And the discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa.
+
+    "_Fifth Thousand. With Map and Illustrations_. 8vo. 21s.
+
+    "'Few achievements in our day have made a greater impression
+    than that of the adventurous missionary who unaided crossed the
+    Continent of Equatorial Africa. His unassuming simplicity, his
+    varied intelligence, his indomitable pluck, his steady religious
+    purpose, form a combination of qualities rarely found in one
+    man. By common consent, Dr. Livingstone has come to be regarded
+    as one of the most remarkable travellers of his own or of any
+    other age.'--_British Quarterly Review_."
+
+[The kindly pen of the reviewer served a good turn when there was "no
+medicine" but the following:--]
+
+I was at last advised to try malachite, rubbed down with water on a
+stone, and applied with a feather: this is the only thing that has any
+beneficial effect.
+
+_9th September, 1870._--A Londa slave stole ten goats from the Manyuema;
+he was bound, but broke loose, and killed two goats yesterday. He was
+given to the Manyuema. The Balonda evidently sold their criminals only.
+He was shorn of his ears and would have been killed, but Monangoi said:
+"Don't let the blood of a freeman touch our soil."
+
+_26th September, 1870._--I am able now to report the ulcers healing. For
+eighty days I have been completely laid up by them, and it will be long
+ere the lost substance will be replaced. They kill many slaves; and an
+epidemic came to us which carried off thirty in our small camp.[8]
+
+[We come to a very important note under the next date. It may be
+necessary to remind the reader that when Livingstone left the
+neighbourhood of Lake Nyassa and bent his steps northwards, he believed
+that the "Chambezé" River, which the natives reported to be ahead of
+him, was in reality the Zambezi, for he held in his hand a map
+manufactured at home, and so conveniently manipulated as to clear up a
+great difficulty by simply inserting "New Zambezi" in the place of the
+Chambezé. As we now see, Livingstone handed back this addled
+geographical egg to its progenitor, who, we regret to say, has not only
+smashed it in wrath, but has treated us to so much of its savour in a
+pamphlet written against the deceased explorer, that few will care to
+turn over its leaves.
+
+However, the African traveller has a warning held up before him which
+may be briefly summed up in a caution to be on the look out for constant
+repetitions in one form or another of the same name. Endless confusion
+has arisen from Nyassas and Nyanzas, from Chiroas and Kiroas and
+Shirwas, to say nothing of Zambesis and Ohambezés. The natives are just
+as prone to perpetuate Zambezi or Lufira in Africa as we are to multiply
+our Avons and Ouses in England.]
+
+_4th October, 1870._--A trading party from Ujiji reports an epidemic
+raging between the coast and Ujiji, and very fatal. Syde bin Habib and
+Dugumbé are coming, and they have letters and perhaps people for me, so
+I remain, though the irritable ulcers are well-nigh healed. I fear that
+my packet for the coast may have fared badly, for the Lewalé has kept
+Musa Kamaal by him, so that no evidence against himself or the dishonest
+man Musa bin Saloom should be given: my box and guns, with despatches, I
+fear will never be sent. Zahor, to whom I gave calico to pay carriers,
+has been sent off to Lobemba.
+
+Mohamad sowed rice yesterday, and has to send his people (who were
+unsuccessful among the Balégga) away to the Metambé, where they got
+ivory before.
+
+I cannot understand very well what a "Theoretical Discoverer" is. If
+anyone got up and declared in a public meeting that he was the
+theoretical discoverer of the philosopher's stone, or of perpetual
+motion for watches, should we not mark him as a little wrong in the
+head? So of the Nile sources. The Portuguese crossed the Chambezé some
+seventy years before I did, but to them it was a branch of the Zambezi
+and nothing more. Cooley put it down as the New Zambesi, and made it run
+backwards, up-hill, between 3000 and 4000 feet! I was misled by the
+similarity of names and a map, to think it the eastern branch of the
+Zambezi. I was told that it formed a large water in the south-west, this
+I readily believed to be the Liambai, in the Barotsé Valley, and it took
+me eighteen months of toil to come back again to the Chambezé in Lake
+Bangweolo, and work out the error into which I was led--twenty-two
+months elapsed ere I got back to the point whence I set out to explore
+Chambezé, Bangweolo, Luapula, Moero, and Lualaba. I spent two full years
+at this work, and the Chief Casembe was the first to throw light on the
+subject by saying, "It is the same water here as in the Chambezé, the
+same in Moero and Lualaba, and one piece of water is just like another.
+Will you draw out calico from it that you wish to see it? As your chief
+desired you to see Bangweolo, go to it, and if in going north you see a
+travelling party, join it; if not, come back to me, and I will send you
+safely by my path along Moero."
+
+The central Lualaba I would fain call the Lake River Webb; the western,
+the Lake River Young. The Lufira and Lualaba West form a Lake, the
+native name of which, "Chibungo," must give way to Lake Lincoln. I wish
+to name the fountain of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, Palmerston
+Fountain, and adding that of Sir Bartle Frere to the fountain of Lufira,
+three names of men who have done more to abolish slavery and the
+slave-trade than any of their contemporaries.
+
+[Through the courtesy of the Earl of Derby we are able to insert a
+paragraph here which occurs in a despatch written to Her Majesty's
+Foreign Office by Dr. Livingstone a few weeks before his death. He
+treats more fully in it upon the different names that he gave to the
+most important rivers and lakes which he discovered, and we see how he
+cherished to the last the fond memory of old well-tried friendships, and
+the great examples of men like President Lincoln and Lord Palmerston.]
+
+"I have tried to honour the name of the good Lord Palmerston, in fond
+remembrance of his long and unwearied labour for the abolition of the
+Slave Trade; and I venture to place the name of the good and noble
+Lincoln on the Lake, in gratitude to him who gave freedom to 4,000,000
+of slaves. These two great men are no longer among us; but it pleases
+me, here in the wilds, to place, as it were, my poor little garland of
+love on their tombs. Sir Bartle Frere having accomplished the grand work
+of abolishing slavery in Scindiah, Upper India, deserves the gratitude
+of every lover of human kind.
+
+"Private friendship guided me in the selection of other names where
+distinctive epithets were urgently needed. 'Paraffin' Young, one of my
+teachers in chemistry, raised himself to be a merchant prince by his
+science and art, and has shed pure white light in many lowly cottages,
+and in some rich palaces. Leaving him and chemistry, I went away to try
+and bless others. I, too, have shed light of another kind, and am fain
+to believe that I have performed a small part in the grand revolution
+which our Maker has been for ages carrying on, by multitudes of
+conscious, and many unconscious agents, all over the world. Young's
+friendship never faltered.
+
+"Oswell and Webb were fellow-travellers, and mighty hunters. Too much
+engrossed myself with mission-work to hunt, except for the children's
+larder, when going to visit distant tribes, I relished the sight of fair
+stand-up fights by my friends with the large denizens of the forest, and
+admired the true Nimrod class for their great courage, truthfulness, and
+honour. Being a warm lover of natural history, the entire butcher tribe,
+bent only on making 'a bag,' without regard to animal suffering, have
+not a single kindly word from me. An Ambonda man, named Mokantju, told
+Oswell and me in 1851 that the Liambai and Kafué rose as one fountain
+and then separated, but after a long course came together again in the
+Zambezi above Zumbo."
+
+_8th October, 1870._--Mbarawa and party came yesterday from Katomba at
+Mamohela. He reports that Jangeongé (?) with Moeneokela's men had been
+killing people of the Metamba or forest, and four of his people were
+slain. He intended fighting, hence his desire to get rid of me when I
+went north: he got one and a half tusks, but little ivory, but Katomba's
+party got fifty tusks; Abdullah had got two tusks, and had also been
+fighting, and Katomba had sent a fighting party down to Lolindé; plunder
+and murder is Ujijian trading. Mbarawa got his ivory on the Lindi, or as
+he says, "Urindi," which has black water, and is very large: an arrow
+could not be shot across its stream, 400 or 500 yards wide, it had to be
+crossed by canoes, and goes into Lualaba. It is curious that all think
+it necessary to say to me, "The Manyuema are bad, very bad;" the Balégga
+will be let alone, because they can fight, and we shall hear nothing of
+their badness.
+
+_10th October, 1870._--I came out of my hut to-day, after being confined
+to it since the 22nd July, or eighty days, by irritable ulcers on the
+feet. The last twenty days I suffered from fever, which reduced my
+strength, taking away my voice, and purging me. My appetite was good,
+but the third mouthful of any food caused nausea and vomiting--purging
+took place and profuse sweating; it was choleraic, and how many Manyuema
+died of it we could not ascertain. While this epidemic raged here, we
+heard of cholera terribly severe on the way to the coast. I am thankful
+to feel myself well.
+
+Only one ulcer is open, the size of a split pea: malachite was the
+remedy most useful, but the beginning of the rains may have helped the
+cure, as it does to others; copper rubbed down is used when malachite
+cannot be had. We expect Syde bin Habib soon: he will take to the river,
+and I hope so shall I. The native traders reached people who had horns
+of oxen, got from the left bank of the Lualaba. Katomba's people got
+most ivory, namely, fifty tusks; the others only four. The Metamba or
+forest is of immense extent, and there is room for much ivory to be
+picked up at five or seven bracelets of copper per tusk, if the slaves
+sent will only be merciful. The nine villages destroyed, and 100 men
+killed, by Katomba's slaves at Nasangwa's, were all about a string of
+beads fastened to a powder horn, which a Manyuema man tried in vain to
+steal!
+
+Katomba gets twenty-five of the fifty tusks brought by his people. We
+expect letters, and perhaps men by Syde bin Habib. No news from the
+coast had come to Ujiji, save a rumour that some one was building a
+large house at Bagamoio, but whether French or English no one can say:
+possibly the erection of a huge establishment on the mainland may be a
+way of laboriously proving that it is more healthy than the island. It
+will take a long time to prove by stone and lime that the higher lands,
+200 miles inland, are better still, both for longevity and work.[9] I am
+in agony for news from home; all I feel sure of now is that my friends
+will all wish me to complete my task. I join in the wish now, as better
+than doing it in vain afterwards.
+
+The Manyuema hoeing is little better than scraping the soil, and cutting
+through the roots of grass and weeds, by a horizontal motion of the hoe
+or knife; they leave the roots of maize, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes,
+and dura, to find their way into the rich soft soil, and well they
+succeed, so there is no need for deep ploughing: the ground-nuts and
+cassava hold their own against grass for years, and bananas, if cleared
+of weeds, yield abundantly. Mohamad sowed rice just outside the camp
+without any advantage being secured by the vicinity of a rivulet, and it
+yielded forone measure of seed one hundred and twenty measures of
+increase. This season he plants along the rivulet called "Bondé," and on
+the damp soil.
+
+The rain-water does not percolate far, for the clay retains it about two
+feet beneath the surface: this is a cause of unhealthiness to man. Fowls
+and goats have been cut off this year in large numbers by an epidemic.
+
+The visits of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Manyuema to be a
+severe infliction, for the huts are appropriated, and no leave asked:
+firewood, pots, baskets, and food are used without scruple, and anything
+that pleases is taken away; usually the women flee into the forest, and
+return to find the whole place a litter of broken food. I tried to pay
+the owners of the huts in which I slept, but often in vain, for they hid
+in the forest, and feared to come near. It was common for old men to
+come forward to me with a present of bananas as I passed, uttering with
+trembling accents, "Bolongo, Bolongo!" ("Friendship, Friendship!"), and
+if I stopped to make a little return present, others ran for plantains
+or palm-toddy. The Arabs' men ate up what they demanded, without one
+word of thanks, and turned round to me and said, "They are bad, don't
+give them anything." "Why, what badness is there in giving food?" I
+replied. "Oh! they like you, but hate us." One man gave me an iron ring,
+and all seemed inclined to be friendly, yet they are undoubtedly
+bloodthirsty to other Manyuema, and kill each other.
+
+I am told that journeying inland the safe way to avoid tsetse in going
+to Meréré's is to go to Mdongé, Makindé, Zungoméro, Masapi, Irundu,
+Nyangoré, then turn north to the Nyannugams, and thence to Nyémbé, and
+so on south to Meréré's. A woman chief lies in the straight way to
+Meréré, but no cattle live in the land. Another insect lights on the
+animals, and when licked off bites the tongue, or breeds, and is fatal
+as well as tsetse: it is larger in size. Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Ali
+come to Nyémbé, thence to Nsama's, cross Lualaba at Mpwéto's, follow
+left bank of that river till they cross the next Lualaba, and so into
+Lunda of Matiamvo. Much ivory may be obtained by this course, and it
+shows enterprise. Syde bin Habib and Dugumbé will open up the Lualaba
+this year, and I am hoping to enter the West Lualaba, or Young's River,
+and if possible go up to Katanga. The Lord be my guide and helper. I
+feel the want of medicine strongly, almost as much as the want of men.
+
+_16th October, 1870._--Moenemgoi, the chief, came to tell me that
+Monamyembo had sent five goats to Lohombo to get a charm to kill him.
+"Would the English and Kolokolo (Mohamad) allow him to be killed while
+they were here?" I said that it was a false report, but he believes it
+firmly: Monamyembo sent his son to assure us that he was slandered, but
+thus quarrels and bloodshed feuds arise!
+
+The great want of the Manyuema is national life, of this they have none:
+each headman is independent of every other. Of industry they have no
+lack, and the villagers are orderly towards each other, but they go no
+further. If a man of another district ventures among them, it is at his
+peril; he is not regarded with more favour as a Manyuema than one of a
+herd of buffaloes is by the rest: and he is almost sure to be killed.
+
+Moenékuss had more wisdom than his countrymen: his eldest son went over
+to Monamyembo (one of his subjects) and was there murdered by five spear
+wounds. The old chief went and asked who had slain his son. All
+professed ignorance, whilst some suggested "perhaps the Bahombo did it,"
+so he went off to them, but they also denied it and laid it at the door
+of Monamdenda, from whom he got the same reply when he arrived at his
+place--no one knew, and so the old man died. This, though he was
+heartbroken, was called witchcraft by Monamyembo. Eleven people were
+murdered, and after this cruel man was punished he sent a goat with the
+confession that he had killed Moenékuss' son. This son had some of the
+father's wisdom: the others he never could get to act like men of sense.
+
+_19th October, 1870._--Bambarré. The ringleading deserters sent Chuma to
+say that they were going with the people of Mohamad (who left to-day),
+to the Metamba, but I said that I had nought to say to them. They would
+go now to the Metamba, whom, on deserting, they said they so much
+feared, and they think nothing of having left me to go with only three
+attendants, and get my feet torn to pieces in mud and sand. They
+probably meant to go back to the women at Mamohela, who fed them in the
+absence of their husbands. They were told by Mohamad that they must not
+follow his people, and he gave orders to bind them, and send them back
+if they did. They think that no punishment will reach them whatever they
+do: they are freemen, and need not work or do anything but beg.
+"English," they call themselves, and the Arabs fear them, though the
+eagerness with which they engaged in slave-hunting showed them to be
+genuine niggers.
+
+_20th October, 1870._--The first heavy rain of this season fell
+yesterday afternoon. It is observable that the permanent halt to which
+the Manyuema have come is not affected by the appearance of superior men
+among them: they are stationary, and improvement is unknown. Moenékuss
+paid smiths to teach his sons, and they learned to work in copper and
+iron, but he never could get them to imitate his own generous and
+obliging deportment to others; he had to reprove them perpetually for
+mean shortsightedness, and when he died he virtually left no successor,
+for his sons are both narrowminded, mean, shortsighted creatures,
+without dignity or honour. All they can say of their forefathers is that
+they came from Lualaba up Luamo, then to Luelo, and thence here. The
+name seems to mean "forest people"--_Manyuema_.
+
+The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at Kanyingéré's, and went
+N. and N.N.E. They found the country becoming more and more mountainous,
+till at last, approaching Moreré, it was perpetually up and down. They
+slept at a village on the top, and could send for water to the bottom
+only once, it took so much time to descend and ascend. The rivers all
+flowed into Kereré or Lower Tanganyika. There is a hot fountain whose
+water could not be touched nor stones stood upon. The Balégga were very
+unfriendly, and collected in thousands. "We come to buy ivory," said
+Hassani, "and if there is none we go away." "Nay," shouted they, "you
+come to die here!" and then they shot with arrows; when musket-balls
+were returned they fled, and would not come to receive the captives.
+
+_25th October, 1870._--Bambarré. In this journey I have endeavoured to
+follow with unswerving fidelity the line of duty. My course has been an
+even one, turning neither to the right hand nor to the left, though my
+route has been tortuous enough. All the hardship, hunger, and toil were
+met with the full conviction that I was right in persevering to make a
+complete work of the exploration of the sources of the Nile. Mine has
+been a calm, hopeful endeavour to do the work that has been given me to
+do, whether I succeed or whether I fail. The prospect of death in
+pursuing what I knew to be right did not make me veer to one side or the
+other. I had a strong presentiment during the first three years that I
+should never live through the enterprise, but it weakened as I came near
+to the end of the journey, and an eager desire to discover any evidence
+of the great Moses having visited these parts bound me, spell-bound me,
+I may say, for if I could bring to light anything to confirm the Sacred
+Oracles, I should not grudge one whit all the labour expended. I have to
+go down the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake River, then up the Western or
+Young's Lake River to Katanga head waters and then retire. I pray that
+it may be to my native home.
+
+Syde bin Habib, Dugumbé, Juma Merikano, Abdullah Masendi are coming in
+with 700 muskets, and an immense store of beads, copper, &c. They will
+cross Lualaba and trade west of it: I wait for them because they may
+have letters for me.
+
+_28th October, 1870._--Moenemokata, who has travelled further than most
+Arabs, said to me, "If a man goes with a good-natured, civil tongue, he
+may pass through the worst people in Africa unharmed:" this is true, but
+time also is required: one must not run through a country, but give the
+people time to become acquainted with you, and let their first fears
+subside.
+
+_29th October, 1870._--The Manyuema buy their wives from each other; a
+pretty girl brings ten goats. I saw one brought home to-day; she came
+jauntily with but one attendant, and her husband walking behind. They
+stop five days, then go back and remain other five days at home: then
+the husband fetches her again. Many are pretty, and have perfect forms
+and limbs.
+
+_31st October, 1870._--Monangoi, of Luamo, married to the sister of
+Moenékuss, came some time ago to beg that Kanyingeré might be attacked
+by Mohamad's people: no fault has he, "but he is bad." Monangoi, the
+chief here, offered two tusks to effect the same thing; on refusal, he
+sends the tusks to Katomba, and may get his countryman spoiled by him.
+"He is bad," is all they can allege as a reason. Meantime this chief
+here caught a slave who escaped, a prisoner from Moene-mokia's, and sold
+him or her to Moene-mokia for thirty spears and some knives; when asked
+about this captive, he said, "She died:" it was simply theft, but he
+does not consider himself bad.
+
+_2nd November, 1870._--The plain without trees that flanks the Lualaba
+on the right bank, called Mbuga, is densely peopled, and the
+inhabitants are all civil and friendly. From fifty to sixty large canoes
+come over from the left bank daily to hold markets; these people too
+"are good," but the dwellers in the Metamba or dense forest are
+treacherous and murder a single person without scruple: the dead body is
+easily concealed, while on the plain all would become aware of it.
+
+I long with intense desire to move on and finish my work, I have also an
+excessive wish to find anything that may exist proving the visit of the
+great Moses and the ancient kingdom of Tirhaka, but I pray give me just
+what pleases Thee my Lord, and make me submissive to Thy will in all
+things.
+
+I received information about Mr. Young's search trip up the Shiré and
+Nyassa only in February 1870, and now take the first opportunity of
+offering hearty thanks in a despatch to Her Majesty's Government, and
+all concerned in kindly inquiring after my fate.
+
+Musa and his companions were fair average specimens for heartlessness
+and falsehood of the lower classes of Mohamadans in East Africa. When we
+were on the Shiré we used to swing the ship into mid-stream every night,
+in order to let the air which was put in motion by the water, pass from
+end to end. Musa's brother-in-law stepped into the water one morning, in
+order to swim off for a boat, and was seized by a crocodile, the poor
+fellow held up his hand imploringly, but Musa and the rest allowed him
+to perish. On my denouncing his heartlessness, Musa-replied, "Well, no
+one tell him go in there." When at Senna a slave woman was seized by a
+crocodile: four Makololo rushed in unbidden, and rescued her, though
+they knew nothing about her: from long intercourse with both Johanna men
+and Makololo I take these incidents as typical of the two races. Those
+of mixed blood possess the vices of both races, and the virtues of
+neither.
+
+A gentleman of superior abilities[10] has devoted life and fortune to
+elevate the Johanna men, but fears that they are "an unimprovable race."
+
+The Sultan of Zanzibar, who knows his people better than any stranger,
+cannot entrust any branch of his revenue to even the better class of his
+subjects, but places all his customs, income, and money affairs, in the
+hands of Banians from India, and his father did before him.
+
+When the Mohamadan gentlemen of Zanzibar are asked "why their sovereign
+places all his pecuniary affairs and fortune in the hands of aliens?"
+they frankly avow that if he allowed any Arab to farm his customs, he
+would receive nothing but a crop of lies.
+
+Burton had to dismiss most of his people at Ujiji for dishonesty:
+Speke's followers deserted at the first approach of danger. Musa fled in
+terror on hearing a false report from a half-caste Arab about the
+Mazitu, 150 miles distant, though I promised to go due west, and not
+turn to the north till far past the beat of that tribe. The few
+liberated slaves with whom I went on had the misfortune to be Mohamadan
+slaves in boyhood, but did fairly till we came into close contact with
+Moslems again. A black Arab was released from a twelve years' bondage by
+Casembe, through my own influence and that of the Sultan's letter: we
+travelled together for a time, and he sold the favours of his female
+slaves to my people for goods which he perfectly well knew were stolen
+from me. He received my four deserters, and when I had gone off to Lake
+Bangweolo with only four attendants, the rest wished to follow, but he
+dissuaded them by saying that I had gone into a country where there was
+war: he was the direct cause of all my difficulties with these liberated
+slaves, but judged by the East African Moslem standard, as he ought to
+be, and not by ours, he isa very good man, and I did not think it
+prudent to come to a rupture with the old blackguard.
+
+"Laba" means in the Manyuema dialect "medicine;" a charm, "boganga:"
+this would make Lualaba mean the River of Medicine or charms. Hassani
+thought that it meant "great," because it seemed to mean flowing greatly
+or grandly.
+
+Casembe caught all the slaves that escaped from Mohamad, and placed them
+in charge of Fungafunga; so there is little hope for fugitive slaves so
+long as Casembe lives: this act is to the Arabs very good: he is very
+sensible, and upright besides.
+
+_3rd November, 1870._--Got a Kondohondo, the large double-billed
+Hornbill (the _Buceros cristata_), Kakomira, of the Shiré, and the
+Sassassa of Bambarré. It is good eating, and has fat of an orange tinge,
+like that of the zebra; I keep the bill to make a spoon of it.
+
+An ambassador at Stamboul or Constantinople was shown a hornbill spoon,
+and asked if it were really the bill of the Phoenix. He replied that he
+did not know, but he had a friend in London who knew all these sort of
+things, so the Turkish ambassador in London brought the spoon to
+Professor Owen. He observed something in the divergences of the fibres
+of the horn which he knew before, and went off into the Museum of the
+College of Surgeons, and brought a preserved specimen of this very bird.
+"God is great--God is great," said the Turk, "this is the Phoenix of
+which we have heard so often." I heard the Professor tell this at a
+dinner of the London Hunterian Society in 1857.
+
+There is no great chief in Manyuema or Balégga; all are petty headmen,
+each of whom considers himself a chief: it is the ethnic state, with no
+cohesion between the different portions of the tribe. Murder cannot be
+punished except by a war, in which many fall, and the feud is made
+worse, and transmitted to their descendants.
+
+The heathen philosophers were content with mere guesses at the future
+of the soul. The elder prophets were content with the Divine support in
+life and in death. The later prophets advance further, as Isaiah: "Thy
+dead men shall live, together with my dead body shall they arise. Awake,
+and sing, ye that dwell in the dust: for thy dew is as the dew of herbs.
+The earth also shall cast out her dead." This, taken with the sublime
+spectacle of Hades in the fourteenth chapter, seems a forecast of the
+future, but Jesus instructed Mary and her sister and Lazarus; and Martha
+without hesitation spoke of the resurrection at the last day as a
+familiar doctrine, far in advance of the Mosaic law in which she had
+been reared.
+
+The Arabs tell me that Monyungo, a chief, was sent for five years among
+the Watuta to learn their language and ways, and he sent his two sons
+and a daughter to Zanzibar to school. He kills many of his people, and
+says they are so bad that if not killed they would murder strangers.
+Once they were unruly, when he ordered some of them to give their huts
+to Mohamad; on refusing, he put fire to them, and they soon called out,
+"Let them alone; we will retire." He dresses like an Arab, and has ten
+loaded guns at his sitting-place, four pistols, two swords, several
+spears, and two bundles of the Batuta spears: he laments that his father
+filed his teeth when he was young. The name of his very numerous people
+is Bawungu, country Urungu: his other names are Ironga, Mohamu.
+
+The Basango, on the other hand, consider their chief as a deity, and
+fear to say aught wrong, lest he should hear them: they fear both before
+him and when out of sight.
+
+The father of Meréré never drank pombe or beer, and assigned as a reason
+that a great man who had charge of people's lives should never become
+intoxicated so as to do evil. Bangé he never smoked, but in council
+smelled at a bunch of it, in order to make his people believe that it
+had a great effect on him. Meréré drinks pombe freely, but never uses
+bangé: he alone kills sheep; he is a lover of mutton and beef, but
+neither goats nor fowls are touched by him.
+
+_9th November, 1870._--I sent to Lohombo for dura, and planted some
+Nyumbo. I long excessively to be away and finish my work by the two
+Lacustrine rivers, Lualaba of Webb and Young, but wait only for Syde and
+Dugumbé, who may have letters, and as I do not intend to return hither,
+but go through Karagwé homewards, I should miss them altogether. I groan
+and am in bitterness at the delay, but thus it is: I pray for help to do
+what is right, but sorely am I perplexed, and grieved and mourn: I
+cannot give up making a complete work of the exploration.
+
+_10th November, 1870._--A party of Katomba's men arrived on their way to
+Ujiji for carriers, they report that a foray was made S.W. of Mamohela
+to recover four guns, which were captured from Katomba; three were
+recovered, and ten of the Arab party slain. The people of Manyuema
+fought very fiercely with arrows, and not till many were killed and
+others mutilated would they give up the guns; they probably expected
+this foray, and intended to fight till the last. They had not gone in
+search of ivory while this was enacting, consequently Mohamad's men have
+got the start of them completely, by going along Lualaba to Kasongo's,
+and then along the western verge of the Metamba or forest to Loindé or
+Rindi River. The last men sent took to fighting instead of trading, and
+returned empty; the experience gained thus, and at the south-west, will
+probably lead them to conclude that the Manyuema are not to be shot down
+without reasonable cause. They have sown rice and maize at Mamohela, but
+cannot trade now where they got so much ivory before. Five men were
+killed at Rindi or Loindé, and one escaped: the reason of this outbreak
+by men who have been so peaceable is not divulged, but anyone seeing the
+wholesale plunder to which the houses and gardens were subject can
+easily guess the rest. Mamohela's camp had several times been set on
+fire at night by the tribes which suffered assault, but did not effect
+all that was intended. The Arabs say that the Manyuema now understand
+that every gunshot does not kill; the next thing they will learn will
+be to grapple in close quarters in the forest, where their spears will
+outmatch the guns in the hands of slaves, it will follow, too, that no
+one will be able to pass through this country; this is the usual course
+of Suaheli trading; it is murder and plunder, and each slave as he rises
+in his owner's favour is eager to show himself a mighty man of valour,
+by cold-blooded killing of his countrymen: if they can kill a
+fellow-nigger, their pride boils up. The conscience is not enlightened
+enough to cause uneasiness, and Islam gives less than the light of
+nature.
+
+I am grievously tired of living here. Mohamad is as kind as he can be,
+but to sit idle or give up before I finish my work are both intolerable;
+I cannot bear either, yet I am forced to remain by want of people.
+
+_11th November, 1870._--I wrote to Mohamad bin Saleh at Ujiji for
+letters and medicines to be sent in a box of China tea, which is half
+empty: if he cannot get carriers for the long box itself, then he is to
+send these, the articles of which I stand in greatest need.
+
+The relatives of a boy captured at Monanyembé brought three goats to
+redeem him: he is sick and emaciated; one goat was rejected. The boy
+shed tears when he saw his grandmother, and the father too, when his
+goat was rejected. "So I returned, and considered all the oppressions
+that are done under the sun: and behold the tears of such as were
+oppressed, and they had no comforter; and on the side of their
+oppressors there was power; but they had no comforter."--Eccles. iv. 1.
+The relations were told either to bring the goat, or let the boy die;
+this was hard-hearted. At Mamohela ten goats are demanded for a captive,
+and given too; here three are demanded. "He that is higher than the
+highest regardeth, and there be higher than they. Marvel not at the
+matter."
+
+I did not write to the coast, for I suspect that the Lewalé Syde bin
+Salem Buraschid destroys my letters in order to quash the affair of
+robbery by his man Saloom, he kept the other thief, Kamaels, by him for
+the same purpose. Mohamad writes to Bin Saleh to say that I am here and
+well; that I sent a large packet of letters in June 1869, with money,
+and received neither an answer, nor my box from Unyanyembé, and this is
+to be communicated to the Consul by a friend at Zanzibar. If I wrote, it
+would only be to be burned; this is as far as I can see at present: the
+friend who will communicate with the Consul is Mohamad bin Abdullah the
+Wuzeer, Seyd Suleiman is the Lewalé of the Governor of Zanzibar,
+Suleiman bin Ali or _Sheikh_ Suleiman the Secretary.
+
+The Mamohela horde is becoming terrified, for every party going to trade
+has lost three or four men, and in the last foray they saw that the
+Manyuema can fight, for they killed ten men: they will soon refuse to go
+among those whom they have forced to become enemies.
+
+One of the Bazula invited a man to go with him to buy ivory; he went
+with him, and on getting into the Zulas country the stranger was asked
+by the guide if his gun killed men, and how it did it: whilst he was
+explaining the matter he was stabbed to death. No one knows the reason
+of this, but the man probably lost some of his relations elsewhere: this
+is called murder without cause. When Syde and Dugumbé come, I hope to
+get men and a canoe to finish my work among those who have not been
+abused by Ujijians, and still retain their natural kindness of
+disposition; none of the people are ferocious without cause; and the
+sore experience which they gain from slaves with guns in their hands
+usually ends in sullen hatred of all strangers.
+
+The education of the world is a terrible one, and it has come down with
+relentless rigour on Africa from the most remote times! What the African
+will become after this awfully hard lesson is learned, is among the
+future developments of Providence. When He, who is higher than the
+highest, accomplishes His purposes, this will be a wonderful country,
+and again something like what it was of old, when Zerah and Tirhaka
+flourished, and were great.
+
+The soil of Manyuema is clayey and remarkably fertile, the maize sown in
+it rushes up to seed, and everything is in rank profusion if only it be
+kept clear of weeds, but the Bambarré people are indifferent
+cultivators, planting maize, bananas and plantains, and ground-nuts
+only--no dura, a little cassava, no pennisetum, meleza, pumpkins,
+melons, or nyumbo, though they all flourish in other districts: a few
+sweet potatoes appear, but elsewhere all these native grains and roots
+are abundant and cheap. No one would choose this as a residence, except
+for the sake of Moenékuss. Oil is very dear, while at Lualaba a gallon
+may be got for a single string of beads, and beans, ground-nuts,
+cassava, maize, plantains in rank profusion. The Balégga, like the
+Bambarré people, trust chiefly to plantains and ground-nuts; to play
+with parrots is their great amusement.
+
+_13th November, 1870._--The men sent over to Lohombo, about thirty miles
+off, got two and a half loads of dura for a small goat, but the people
+were unwilling to trade. "If we encourage Arabs to trade, they will come
+and kill us with their guns," so they said, and it is true: the slaves
+are overbearing, and when this is resented, then slaughter ensues. I got
+some sweet plantains and a little oil, which is useful in cooking, and
+with salt, passes for butter on bread, but all were unwilling to trade.
+Monangoi was over near Lohombo, and heard of a large trading party
+coming, and not far off; this may be Syde and Dugumbé, but reports are
+often false. When Katomba's men were on the late foray, they were
+completely overpowered, and compelled by the Manyuema to lay down their
+guns and powder-horns, on pain of being instantly despatched by bow-shot:
+they were mostly slaves, who could only draw the trigger and make a
+noise. Katomba had to rouse out all the Arabs who could shoot, and when
+they came they killed many, and gained the lost day; the Manyuema did
+not kill anyone who laid down his gun and powder-horn. This is the
+beginning of an end which was easily perceived when it became not a
+trading, but a foray of a murdering horde of savages.
+
+The foray above mentioned was undertaken by Katomba for twenty goats
+from Kassessa!--ten men lost for twenty goats, but they will think twice
+before they try another foray.
+
+A small bird follows the "Sassassa" or _Buceros cristata_. It screams
+and pecks at his tail till he discharges the contents of his bowels, and
+then leaves him; it is called "play" by the natives, and by the Suaheli
+"Utané" or "Msaha"--fun or wit; he follows other birds in the same
+merciless way, screaming and pecking to produce purging; Manyuema call
+this bird "Mambambwa." The buffalo bird warns its big friend of danger,
+by calling "Chachacha," and the rhinoceros bird cries out, "Tye, tye,
+tye, tye," for the same purpose. The Manyuema call the buffalo bird
+"Mojela," and the Suaheli, "Chassa." A climbing plant in Africa is known
+as "Ntulungopé," which mixed with flour of dura kills mice; they swarm
+in our camp and destroy everything, but Ntulungopé is not near this.
+
+The Arabs tell me that one dollar a day is ample for provisions for a
+large family at Zanzibar; the food consists of wheat, rice, flesh of
+goats or ox, fowls, bananas, milk, butter, sugar, eggs, mangoes, and
+potatoes. Ambergris is boiled in milk and sugar, and used by the Hindoos
+as a means of increasing blood in their systems; a small quantity is a
+dose; it is found along the shore of the sea at Barawa or Brava, and at
+Madagascar, as if the sperm whale got rid of it while alive. Lamoo or
+Amu is wealthy, and well supplied with everything, as grapes, peaches,
+wheat, cattle, camels, &c. The trade is chiefly with Madagascar: the
+houses are richly furnished with furniture, dishes from India, &c. At
+Garaganza there are hundreds of Arab traders, there too all fruits
+abound, and the climate is healthy, from its elevation. Why cannot we
+missionaries imitate these Arabs in living on heights?
+
+_24th November, 1870._--Herpes is common at the plantations in Zanzibar,
+but the close crowding of the houses in the town they think prevents it;
+the lips and mouth are affected, and constipation sets in for three
+days, all this is cured by going over to the mainland. Affections of the
+lungs are healed by residence at Bariwa or Brava, and also on the
+mainland. The Tafori of Halfani took my letters from Ujiji, but who the
+person employed is I do not know.
+
+_29th November, 1870._--_Safura_ is the name of the disease of clay or
+earth eating, at Zanzibar; it often affects slaves, and the clay is said
+to have a pleasant odour to the eaters, but it is not confined to
+slaves, nor do slaves eat in order to kill themselves; it is a diseased
+appetite, and rich men who have plenty to eat are often subject to it.
+The feet swell, flesh is lost, and the face looks haggard; the patient
+can scarcely walk for shortness of breath and weakness, and he continues
+eating till he dies. Here many slaves are now diseased with safura; the
+clay built in walls is preferred, and Manyuema women when pregnant often
+eat it. The cure is effected by drastic purges composed as follows: old
+vinegar of cocoa-trees is put into a large basin, and old slag red-hot
+cast into it, then "Moneyé," asafoetida, half a rupee in weight,
+copperas, sulph. ditto: a small glass of this, fasting morning and
+evening, produces vomiting and purging of black dejections, this is
+continued for seven days; no meat is to be eaten, but only old rice or
+dura and water; a fowl in course of time: no fish, butter, eggs, or
+beef for two years on pain of death. Mohamad's father had skill in the
+cure, and the above is his prescription. Safura is thus a disease _per
+se_; it is common in Manyuema, and makes me in a measure content to wait
+for my medicines; from the description, inspissated bile seems to be the
+agent of blocking up the gall-duct and duodenum and the clay or earth
+may be nature trying to clear it away: the clay appears unchanged in the
+stools, and in large quantity. A Banyamwezi carrier, who bore an
+enormous load of copper, is now by safura scarcely able to walk; he took
+it at Lualaba where food is abundant, and he is contented with his lot.
+Squeeze a finger-nail, and if no blood appears beneath it, safura is the
+cause of the bloodlessness.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] A precisely similar epidemic broke out at the settlement at
+Magomero, in which fifty-four of the slaves liberated by Dr.
+Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie died. This disease is by far the most
+fatal scourge the natives suffer from, not even excepting small-pox.
+It is common throughout Tropical Africa. We believe that some
+important facts have recently been brought to light regarding it, and
+we can only trust sincerely that the true nature of the disorder will
+be known in time, so that it may be successfully treated: at present
+change of air and high feeding on a meat diet are the best remedies we
+know.--ED.
+
+[9] Dr. Livingstone never ceased to impress upon Europeans the utter
+necessity of living on the high table-lands of the interior, rather
+than on the sea-board or the banks of the great arterial rivers. Men
+may escape death in an unhealthy place, but the system is enfeebled
+and energy reduced to the lowest ebb. Under such circumstances life
+becomes a misery, and important results can hardly be looked for when
+one's vitality is preoccupied in wrestling with the unhealthiness of
+the situation, day and night.--ED.
+
+[10] Mr. John Sunley, of Pomoné, Johanna, an island in the Comoro
+group.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Meréré. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarré. Goître.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Parts at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to
+    eat a white one." Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nyangwé. Reaches the Lualaba.
+
+
+_6th December, 1870._--Oh, for Dugumbé or Syde to come! but this delay
+may be all for the best. The parrots all seize their food, and hold it
+with the left hand, the lion, too, is left-handed; he strikes with the
+left, so are all animals left-handed save man.
+
+I noticed a very pretty woman come past this quite jauntily about a
+month ago, on marriage with Monasimba. Ten goats were given; her friends
+came and asked another goat, which being refused, she was enticed away,
+became sick of rheumatic fever two days afterwards, and died yesterday.
+Not a syllable of regret for the beautiful young creature does one hear,
+but for the goats: "Oh, our ten goats!"--they cannot grieve too
+much--"Our ten goats--oh! oh!"
+
+Basanga wail over those who die in bed, but not over those who die in
+battle: the cattle are a salve for all sores. Another man was killed
+within half a mile of this: they quarrelled, and there is virtually no
+chief. The man was stabbed, the village burned, and the people all fled:
+they are truly a bloody people!
+
+A man died near this, Monasimba went to his wife, and after washing he
+may appear among men. If no widow can be obtained, he must sit naked
+behind his house till some one happens to die, all the clothes he wore
+are thrown away. They are the lowest of the low, and especially in
+bloodiness: the man who killed a woman without cause goes free, he
+offered his grandmother to be killed in his stead, and after a great
+deal of talk nothing was done to him!
+
+_8th December, 1870._--Suleiman-bin-Juma lived on the mainland,
+Mosessamé, opposite Zanzibar: it is impossible to deny his power of
+foresight, except by rejecting all evidence, for he frequently foretold
+the deaths of great men among Arabs, and he was pre-eminently a good
+man, upright and sincere: "Thirti," none like him now for goodness and
+skill. He said that two middle-sized white men, with straight noses and
+flowing hair down to the girdle behind, came at times, and told him
+things to come. He died twelve years ago, and left no successor; he
+foretold his own decease three days beforehand by cholera. "Heresi," a
+ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, is a grand charm to the
+animal and to Arabs. Mohamad has one.
+
+_10th December, 1870._--I am sorely let and hindered in this Manyuema.
+Rain every day, and often at night; I could not travel now, even if I
+had men, but I could make some progress; this is the sorest delay I ever
+had. I look above for help and mercy.
+
+[The wearied man tried to while away the time by gaining little scraps
+of information from the Arabs and the natives, but we cannot fail to see
+what a serious stress was all the time put upon his constitution under
+these circumstances; the reader will pardon the disjointed nature of
+his narrative, written as it was under the greatest disadvantage.]
+
+
+Lion's fat is regarded as a sure preventive of tsetse or bungo. This was
+noted before, but I add now that it is smeared on the ox's tail, and
+preserves hundreds of the Banyamwesi cattle in safety while going to the
+coast; it is also used to keep pigs and hippopotami away from gardens:
+the smell is probably the efficacious part in "Heresi," as they call it.
+
+_12th December, 1870._--It may be all for the best that I am so
+hindered, and compelled to inactivity.
+
+An advance to Lohombo was the furthest point of traders for many a day,
+for the slaves returning with ivory were speared mercilessly by
+Manyuema, because they did not know guns could kill, and their spears
+could. Katomba coming to Moenékuss was a great feat three or four years
+ago; then Dugumbé went on to Lualaba, and fought his way, so I may be
+restrained now in mercy till men come.
+
+The Neggeri, an African animal, attacks the tenderest parts of man and
+beast, cuts them off, and retires contented: buffaloes are often
+castrated by him. Men who know it, squat down, and kill him with knife
+or gun. The Zibu or mbuidé flies at the tendon Achilles; it is most
+likely the Ratel.
+
+The Fisi ea bahari, probably the seal, is abundant in the seas, but the
+ratel or badger probably furnished the skins for the Tabernacle: bees
+escape from his urine, and he eats their honey in safety; lions and all
+other animals fear his attacks of the heel.
+
+The Babemba mix a handful (about twenty-five to a measure) of castor-oil
+seeds with the dura and meleza they grind, and usage makes them like it,
+the nauseous taste is not perceptible in porridge; the oil is needed
+where so much farinaceous or starchy matter exists, and the bowels are
+regulated by the mixture: experience has taught them the need of a fatty
+ingredient.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been anxious to procure all the
+information possible from the Arabs respecting the powerful chief
+Meréré, who is reported to live on the borders of the Salt Water Lake,
+which lies between Lake Tanganyika and the East Coast. It would seem as
+if Meréré held the most available road for travellers passing to the
+south-west from Zanzibar, and although the Doctor did not go through his
+country, he felt an interest no doubt in ascertaining as much as he
+could for the benefit of others.]
+
+Goambari is a prisoner at Meréré's, guarded by a thousand or more men,
+to prevent him intriguing with Monyungo, who is known as bloodthirsty.
+In the third generation Charura's descendants numbered sixty able-bodied
+spearmen, Garahenga or Kimamuré killed many of them. Charura had six
+white attendants with him, but all died before he did, and on becoming
+chief he got all his predecessor's wives. Meréré is the son of a woman
+of the royal stock, and of a common man, hence he is a shade or two
+darker than Charura's descendants, who are very light coloured, and have
+straight noses. They shave the head, and straight hair is all cut off;
+they drink much milk, warm, from the teats of the cows, and think that
+it is strengthening by its heat.
+
+_December 23rd, 1870._--Bambarré people suffer hunger now because they
+will not plant cassava; this trading party eats all the maize, and sends
+to a distance for more, and the Manyuema buy from them with malofu, or
+palm-toddy. Rice is all coming into ear, but the Manyuema planted none:
+maize is ripening, and mice are a pest. A strong man among the Manyuema
+does what he pleases, and no chief interferes: for instance, a man's
+wife for ten goats was given off to a Mené man, and his child, now
+grown, is given away, too; he comes to Mohamad for redress! Two
+elephants killed were very large, but have only small tusks: they come
+from the south in the rains. All animals, as elephants, buffaloes, and
+zebras, are very large in the Basango country; tusks are full in the
+hollows, and weigh very heavy, and animals are fat and good in flesh:
+eleven goats are the exchange for the flesh of an elephant.
+
+[The following details respecting ivory cannot fail to be interesting
+here: they are very kindly furnished by Mr. F.D. Blyth, whose long
+experience enables him to speak with authority upon the subject. He
+says, England imports about 550 tons of ivory annually,--of this 280
+tons pass away to other countries, whilst the remainder is used by our
+manufacturers, of whom the Sheffield cutlers alone require about 170
+tons. The whole annual importation is derived from the following
+countries, and in the quantities given below, as near as one can
+approach to actual figures:
+
+    Bombay and Zanzibar export      160 tons.
+    Alexandria and Malta            180 "
+    West Coast of Africa            140 "
+    Cape of Good Hope                50 "
+    Mozambique                       20 "
+
+The Bombay merchants collect ivory from all the southern countries of
+Asia, and the East Coast of Africa, and after selecting that which is
+most suited to the wants of the Indian and Chinese markets, ship the
+remainder to Europe.
+
+From Alexandria and Malta we receive ivory collected from Northern and
+Central Africa, from Egypt, and the countries through which the Nile
+flows.
+
+Immediately after the Franco-German war the value of ivory increased
+considerably; and when we look at the prices realized on large Zanzibar
+tusks at the public sales, we can well understand the motive power which
+drove the Arab ivory hunters further and further into the country from
+which the chief supply was derived when Dr. Livingstone met them.
+
+    In 1867 their price varied from £39 to £42.
+     " 1868    "   "     "      "    39  "  42.
+     " 1869    "   "     "      "    41  "  44.
+     " 1870    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1871    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1872    "   "     "      "    58  "  61.
+     " 1873    "   "     "      "    68  "  72.
+     " 1874    "   "     "      "    53  "  58.
+
+Single tusks vary in weight from 1 lb. to 165 lbs.: the average of a
+pair of tusks may be put at 28 lbs., and therefore 44,000 elephants,
+large and small, must be killed yearly to supply the ivory which _comes
+to England alone_, and when we remember that an enormous quantity goes
+to America, to India and China, for consumption there, and of which we
+have no account, some faint notion may be formed of the destruction that
+goes on amongst the herds of elephants.
+
+Although naturalists distinguish only two living species of elephants,
+viz. the African and the Asiatic, nevertheless there is a great
+difference in the size, character, and colour of their tusks, which may
+arise from variations in climate, soil, and food. The largest tusks are
+yielded by the African elephant, and find their way hither from the port
+of Zanzibar: they are noted for being opaque, soft or "mellow" to work,
+and free from cracks or defects.
+
+The tusks from India, Ceylon, &c, are smaller in size, partly of an
+opaque character, and partly translucent (or, as it is technically
+called "bright"), and harder and more cracked, but those from Siam and
+the neighbouring countries are very "bright," soft, and fine grained;
+they are much sought after for carvings and ornamental work. Tusks from
+Mozambique and the Cape of Good Hope seldom exceed 70 lbs. in weight
+each: they are similar in character to the Zanzibar kind.
+
+Tusks which come through Alexandria and Malta differ considerably in
+quality: some resemble those from Zanzibar, whilst others are white and
+opaque, harder to work, and more cracked at the points; and others again
+are very translucent and hard, besides being liable to crack: this
+latter description fetches a much lower price in the market.
+
+From the West Coast of Africa we get ivory which is always translucent,
+with a dark outside or coating, but partly hard and partly soft.
+
+The soft ivory which comes from Ambriz, the Gaboon River, and the ports
+south of the equator, is more highly valued than any other, and is
+called "silver grey": this sort retains its whiteness when exposed to
+the air, and is free from that tendency to become yellowish in time
+which characterises Asiatic and East African ivory.
+
+Hard tusks, as a rule, are proportionately smaller in diameter, sharper,
+and less worn than soft ones, and they come to market much more cracked,
+fetching in consequence a lower price.
+
+In addition to the above a few tons of Mammoth ivory are received from
+time to time from the Arctic regions and Siberia, and although of
+unknown antiquity, some tusks are equal in every respect to ivory which
+is obtained in the present day from elephants newly killed; this, no
+doubt, is owing to the preservative effects of the ice in which the
+animals have been imbedded for many thousands of years. In the year 1799
+the entire carcase of a mammoth was taken from the ice, and the skeleton
+and portions of the skin, still covered with reddish hair, are preserved
+in the Museum of St. Petersburg: it is said that portions of the flesh
+were eaten by the men who dug it out of the ice.]
+
+
+_24th December, 1870._--Between twenty-five and thirty slaves have died
+in the present epidemic, and many Manyuema; two yesterday at Kandawara.
+The feet swell, then the hands and face, and in a day or two they drop
+dead; it came from the East, and is very fatal, for few escape who take
+it.
+
+A woman was accused of stealing maize, and the chief here sent all his
+people yesterday, plundered all she had in her house and garden, and
+brought her husband bound in thongs till he shall pay a goat: she is
+said to be innocent.
+
+Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here; and, as the people tell
+him, as soon as they are gone the vengeance he is earning by injustice
+on all sides will be taken: I told the chief that his head would be cut
+off as soon as the traders leave, and so it will be; and Kasessa's also.
+
+Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo's to buy Viramba, and a man was
+speared belonging to Kasongo, these three then fired into a mass of men
+who collected, one killed two, another three, and so on; so now that
+place is shut up from traders, and all this country will be closed as
+soon as the Manyuema learn that guns are limited in their power of
+killing, and especially in the hands of slaves, who cannot shoot, but
+only make a noise. These Suaheli are the most cruel and bloodthirsty
+missionaries in existence, and withal so impure in talk and acts,
+spreading disease everywhere. The Lord sees it.
+
+_28th December, 1870._--Moenembegg, the most intelligent of the two sons
+of Moenékuss, in power, told us that a man was killed and eaten a few
+miles from this yesterday: hunger was the reason assigned. On speaking
+of tainted meat, he said that the Manyuema put meat in water for two
+days to make it putrid and smell high. The love of high meat is the only
+reason I know for their cannibalism, but the practice is now hidden on
+account of the disgust that the traders expressed against open
+man-eating when they first arrived.
+
+Lightning was very near us last night. The Manyuema say that when it is
+so loud fishes of large size fall with it, an opinion shared by the
+Arabs, but the large fish is really the _Clarias Capensis_ of Smith, and
+it is often seen migrating in single file along the wet grass for miles:
+it is probably this that the Manyuema think falls from the lightning.
+
+The strangest disease I have seen in this country seems really to be
+broken-heartedness, and it attacks free men who have been captured and
+made slaves. My attention was drawn to it when the elder brother of Syde
+bin Habib was killed in Rua by a night attack, from a spear being
+pitched through his tent into his side. Syde then vowed vengeance for
+the blood of his brother, and assaulted all he could find, killing the
+elders, and making the young men captives. He had secured a very large
+number, and they endured the chains until they saw the broad River
+Lualaba roll between them and their free homes; they then lost heart.
+Twenty-one were unchained as being now safe; however, all ran away at
+once, but eight, with many others still in chains, died in three days
+after crossing. They ascribed their only pain to the heart, and placed
+the hand correctly on the spot, though many think that the organ stands
+high up under the breast bone. Some slavers expressed surprise to me
+that they should die, seeing they had plenty to eat and no work. One
+fine boy of about twelve years was carried, and when about to expire,
+was kindly laid down on the side of the path, and a hole dug to deposit
+the body in. He, too, said he had nothing the matter with him, except
+pain in his heart: as it attacks only the free (who are captured and
+never slaves), it seems to be really broken-hearts of which they die.
+
+[Livingstone's servants give some additional particulars in answer to
+questions put to them about this dreadful history. The sufferings
+endured by these unfortunate captives, whilst they were hawked about in
+different directions, must have been shocking indeed; many died because
+it was impossible for them to carry a burden on the head whilst marching
+in the heavy yoke or "taming stick," which weighs from 30 lbs. to 40
+lbs. as a rule, and the Arabs knew that if once the stick were taken
+off, the captive would escape on the first opportunity. Children for a
+time would keep up with wonderful endurance, but it happened sometimes
+that the sound of dancing and the merry tinkle of the small drums would
+fall on their ears in passing near to a village; then the memory of home
+and happy days proved too much for them; they cried and sobbed, the
+"broken-heart" came on, and they rapidly sank.
+
+The adults as a rule came into the slave-sticks from treachery, and had
+never been slaves before. Very often the Arabs would promise a present
+of dried fish to villagers if they would act as guides to some distant
+point, and as soon as they were far enough away from their friends they
+were seized and pinned into the yoke from which there is no escape.
+These poor fellows would expire in the way the Doctor mentions, talking
+to the last of their wives and children who would never know what had
+become of them. On one occasion twenty captives succeeded in escaping as
+follows. Chained together by the neck, and in the custody of an Arab
+armed with a gun, they were sent off to collect wood; at a given signal,
+one of them called the guard to look at something which he pretended he
+had found: when he stooped down they threw themselves upon him and
+overpowered him, and after he was dead managed to break the chain and
+make off in all directions.]
+
+Rice sown on 19th October was in ear in seventy days. A leopard killed
+my goat, and a gun set for him went off at 10 P.M.--the ball broke both
+hind legs and one fore leg, yet he had power to spring up and bite a man
+badly afterwards; he was a male, 2 feet 4 inches at withers, and 6 feet
+8 inches from tip of nose to end of tail.
+
+_1st January, 1871._--O Father! help me to finish this work to Thy
+honour.
+
+Still detained at Bambarré, but a caravan of 500 muskets is reported
+from the coast: it may bring me other men and goods.
+
+Rain daily. A woman was murdered without cause close by the camp; the
+murderer said she was a witch and speared her: the body is exposed till
+the affair is settled, probably by a fine of goats.
+
+The Manyuema are the most bloody, callous savages I know; one puts a
+scarlet feather from a parrot's tail on the ground, and challenges those
+near to stick it in the hair: he who does so must kill a man or woman!
+
+Another custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk cat, Ngawa,
+unless he has murdered somebody: guns alone prevent them from killing us
+all, and for no reason either.
+
+_16th January, 1871._--Ramadân ended last night, and it is probable my
+people and others from the coast will begin to travel after three days
+of feasting. It has been so rainy I could have done little though I had
+had people.
+
+_22nd January, 1871._--A party is reported to be on the way hither. This
+is likely enough, but reports are so often false that doubts arise.
+Mohamad says he will give men when the party of Hassani comes, or when
+Dugumbé arrives.
+
+_24th January, 1871._--Mohamad mentioned this morning that Moene-mokaia,
+and Moeneghera his brother, brought about thirty slaves from Katañga to
+Ujiji, affected with swelled thyroid glands or "_Goître_," and that
+drinking the water of Tanganyika proved a perfect cure to all in a very
+few days. Sometimes the swelling went down in two days after they began
+to use the water, in their ordinary way of cooking, washing, and
+drinking: possibly some ingredient of the hot fountain that flows into
+it affects the cure, for the people on the Lofubu, in Nsama's country,
+had the swelling. The water in bays is decidedly brackish, while the
+body of Tanganyika is quite fresh.
+
+The odour of putrid elephant's meat in a house kills parrots: the
+Manyuema keep it till quite rotten, but know its fatal effects on their
+favourite birds.
+
+_27th January, 1871._--Safari or caravan reported to be near, and my men
+and goods at Ujiji.
+
+_28th January, 1871._--A safari, under Hassani and Ebed, arrived with
+news of great mortality by cholera (_Towny_), at Zanzibar, and my
+"brother," whom I conjecture to be Dr. Kirk, has fallen. The men I wrote
+for have come to Ujiji, but did not know my whereabouts; when told by
+Katomba's men they will come here, and bring my much longed for letters
+and goods. 70,000 victims in Zanzibar alone from cholera, and it spread
+inland to the Masoi and Ugogo! Cattle shivered, and fell dead: the
+fishes in the sea died in great numbers; here the fowls were first
+seized and died, but not from cholera, only from its companion. Thirty
+men perished in our small camp, made still smaller by all the able men
+being off trading at the Metamba, and how many Manyuema died we do not
+know; the survivors became afraid of eating the dead.
+
+Formerly the Cholera kept along the sea-shore, now it goes far inland,
+and will spread all over Africa; this we get from Mecca filth, for
+nothing was done to prevent the place being made a perfect cesspool of
+animals' guts and ordure of men.[11] A piece of skin bound round the
+chest of a man, and half of it hanging down, prevents waste of strength,
+and he forgets and fattens.
+
+Ebed's party bring 200 frasilahs of all sorts of beads; they will cross
+Lualaba, and open a new field on the other, or Young's Lualaba: all
+Central Africa will soon be known: the evils inflicted by these Arabs
+are enormous, but probably not greater than the people inflict on each
+other. Meréré has turned against the Arabs, and killed one; robbing
+several others of all they had, though he has ivory sufficient to send
+down 7000 lbs. to the coast, and receive loads of goods for 500 men in
+return. He looks as if insane, and probably is so, and will soon be
+killed. His insanity may be the effect of pombe, of which he drinks
+largely, and his people may have told him that the Arabs were plotting
+with Goambari. He restored Mohamad's ivory and slaves, and sent for the
+other traders who had fled, saying his people had spoken badly, and he
+would repay all losses.
+
+The Watuta (who are the same as the Mazitu) came stealing Banyamwezi
+cattle, and Mtéza's men went out to them, and twenty-two were killed,
+but the Lewale's people did nothing. The Governor's sole anxiety is to
+obtain ivory, and no aid is rendered to traders. Seyed Suleiman the
+Wazeer is the author of the do-nothing policy, and sent away all the
+sepoys as too expensive, consequently the Wagogo plunder traders
+unchecked. It is reported that Egyptian Turks came up and attacked
+Mtéza, but lost many people, and fled. The report of a Moslem Mission to
+his country was a falsehood, though the details given were
+circumstantial: falsehood is so common, one can believe nothing the
+Arabs say, unless confirmed by other evidence: they are the followers of
+the Prince of lies--Mohamad, whose cool appropriation of the knowledge
+gained at Damascus, and from the Jews, is perfectly disgusting. All his
+deeds were done when unseen by any witnesses. It is worth noticing that
+all admit the decadence of the Moslem power, and they ask how it is so
+fallen? They seem sincere in their devotion and in teaching the Koran,
+but its meaning is comparatively hid from most of the Suaheli. The
+Persian Arabs are said to be gross idolators, and awfully impure. Earth
+from a grave at Kurbelow (?) is put in the turban and worshipped: some
+of the sects won't say "Amen."
+
+Moenyegumbé never drank more than a mouthful of pombe. When young, he
+could make his spear pass right through an elephant, and stick in the
+ground on the other side. He was a large man, and all his members were
+largely developed, his hands and fingers were all in proportion to his
+great height; and he lived to old age with strength unimpaired: Goambari
+inherits his white colour and sharp nose, but not his wisdom or courage.
+Meréré killed five of his own people for exciting him against the Arabs.
+The half-caste is the murderer of many of Charura's descendants. His
+father got a daughter of Moenyegumbé for courage in fighting the Babema
+of Ubena.
+
+Cold-blooded murders are frightfully common here. Some kill people in
+order to be allowed to wear the red tail feathers of a parrot in their
+hair, and yet they are not ugly like the West Coast Negroes, for many
+men have as finely formed heads as could be found in London. We English,
+if naked, would make but poor figures beside the strapping forms and
+finely shaped limbs of Manyuema men and women. Their cannibalism is
+doubtful, but my observations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch jury
+would say, "Not proven." The women are not guilty.
+
+_4th February, 1871._--Ten of my men from the coast have come near to
+Bambarré, and will arrive to-day. I am extremely thankful to hear it,
+for it assures me that my packet of letters was not destroyed; they know
+at home by this time what has detained me, and the end to which I
+strain.
+
+Only one letter reached, and forty are missing! James was killed to-day
+by an arrow: the assassin was hid in the forest till my men going to buy
+food came up.[12] I propose to leave on the 12th. I have sent Dr. Kirk a
+cheque for Rs. 4000: great havoc was made by cholera, and in the midst
+of it my friend exerted himself greatly to get men off to me with goods;
+the first gang of porters all died.
+
+_8th February, 1871._--The ten men refusing to go north are influenced
+probably by Shereef, and my two ringleaders, who try this means to
+compel me to take them.
+
+_9th February, 1871._--The man who contrived the murder of James came
+here, drawn by the pretence that he was needed to lead a party against
+the villages, which he led to commit the outrage. His thirst for blood
+is awful: he was bound, and word sent to bring the actual murderers
+within three days, or he suffers death. He brought five goats, thinking
+that would smooth the matter over.
+
+_11th February, 1871._--Men struck work for higher wages: I consented to
+give them six dollars a month if they behaved well; if ill I diminish
+it, so we hope to start to-morrow. Another hunting quelled by Mohamad
+and me.
+
+The ten men sent are all slaves of the Banians, who are English
+subjects, and they come with a lie in their mouth: they will not help
+me, and swear that the Consul told them not to go forward, but to force
+me back, and they spread the tale all over the country that a certain
+letter has been sent to me with orders to return forthwith. They swore
+so positively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk's letter to see
+if his orders had been rightly understood by me. But for Mohamad
+Bogharib and fear of pistol-shot they would gain their own and their
+Banian masters' end to baffle me completely; they demand an advance of
+one dollar, or six dollars a month, though this is double freeman's pay
+at Zanzibar. Their two headmen, Shereef and Awathé, refused to come past
+Ujiji, and are revelling on my goods there.
+
+_13th February, 1871._--Mabruki being seized with choleraic purging
+detains us to-day. I gave Mohamad five pieces Americano, five ditto
+Kaniké,[13] and two frasilahs samisami beads. He gives me a note to
+Hassani for twenty thick copper bracelets. Yesterday crowds came to eat
+the meat of the man who misled James to his death spot: but we want the
+men who set the Mbanga men to shoot him: they were much disappointed
+when they found that no one was killed, and are undoubtedly cannibals.
+
+_16th, February, 1871._--Started to-day. Mabruki making himself out
+very ill, Mohamad roused him out by telling him I travelled when much
+worse. The chief gave me a goat, and Mohamad another, but in coming
+through the forest on the neck of the mountain the men lost three, and
+have to go back for them, and return to-morrow. Simon and Ibram were
+bundled out of the camp, and impudently followed me: when they came
+up, I told them to be off.
+
+_17th February, 1871._--Waiting at a village on the Western slope for
+the men to come up with the goats, if they have gone back to the camp.
+Mohamad would not allow the deserters to remain among his people, nor
+would I. It would only be to imbue the minds of my men with their want
+of respect for all English, and total disregard of honesty and honour:
+they came after me with inimitable effrontery, believing that though I
+said I would not take them, they were so valuable, I was only saying
+what I knew to be false. The goats were brought by a Manyuema man, who
+found one fallen into a pitfall and dead; he ate it, and brought one of
+his own in lieu of it. I gave him ten strings of beads, and he presented
+a fowl in token of goodwill.
+
+_18th February, 1871._--Went on to a village on the Lulwa, and on the
+19th reached Moenemgoi, who dissuaded me so earnestly against going to
+Moenekurumbo for the cause of Molembalemba that I agreed not to venture.
+
+_20th February, 1871._--To the ford with only one canoe now, as two men
+of Katomba were swept away in the other, and drowned. They would not
+sell the remaining canoe, so I go N.W. on foot to Moené Lualaba, where
+fine large canoes are abundant. The grass and mud are grievous, but my
+men lift me over the waters.
+
+_21st February, 1871._--Arrived at Monandewa's village, situated on a
+high ridge between two deep and difficult gullies. These people are
+obliging and kind: the chief's wife made a fire for me in the evening
+unbidden.
+
+_22nd February, 1871._--On N.W. to a high hill called Chibandé a Yundé,
+with a spring of white water at the village on the top. Famine from some
+unknown cause here, but the people are cultivating now on the plain
+below with a will.
+
+_23rd February, 1871._--On to two large villages with many banana plants
+around, but the men said they were in fear of the traders, and shifted
+their villages to avoid them: we then went on to the village
+Kahombogola, with a feeble old man as chief. The country is beautiful
+and undulating: light-green grass covers it all, save at the brooks,
+where the eye is relieved by the dark-green lines of trees. Grass tears
+the hands and wets the extremities constantly. The soil is formed of the
+débris of granitic rocks; rough and stony, but everywhere fertile. One
+can rarely get a bare spot to sit down and rest.
+
+_24th February, 1871._--To a village near Lolandé River. Then across
+the Loengadyé, sleeping on the bank of the Luha, and so to Mamohela,
+where we were welcomed by all the Arabs, and I got a letter from Dr.
+Kirk and another from the Sultan, and from Mohamad bin Nassib who was
+going to Karagwé: all anxious to be kind. Katomba gave flour, nuts,
+fowls, and goat. A new way is opened to Kasongo's, much shorter than
+that I followed. I rest a few days, and then go on.
+
+_25th February, 1871._--So we went on, and found that it was now known
+that the Lualaba flowed west-south-west, and that our course was to be
+west across this other great bend of the mighty river. I had to suspend
+my judgment, so as to be prepared to find it after all perhaps the
+Congo. No one knew anything about it except that when at Kasongo's nine
+days west, and by south it came sweeping round and flowed north and
+north and by east.
+
+Katomba presented a young soko or gorillah that had been caught while
+its mother was killed; she sits eighteen inches high, has fine long
+black hair all over, which was pretty so long as it was kept in order by
+her dam. She is the least mischievous of all the monkey tribe I have
+seen, and seems to know that in me she has a friend, and sits quietly on
+the mat beside me. In walking, the first thing observed is that she does
+not tread on the palms of her hands, but on the backs of the second line
+of bones of the hands: in doing this the nails do not touch the ground,
+nor do the knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported crutch fashion,
+and hitches herself along between them; occasionally one hand is put
+down before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she walks
+upright and holds up a hand to any one to carry her. If refused, she
+turns her face down, and makes grimaces of the most bitter human
+weeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes adding a fourth hand or foot
+to make the appeal more touching. Grass or leaves she draws around her
+to make a nest, and resents anyone meddling with her property. She is a
+most friendly little beast, and came up to me at once, making her
+chirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, and held out her hand to be
+shaken. I slapped her palm without offence, though she winced. She began
+to untie the cord with which she was afterwards bound, with fingers and
+thumbs, in quite a systematic way, and on being interfered with by a man
+looked daggers, and screaming tried to beat him with her hands: she was
+afraid of his stick, and faced him, putting her back to me as a friend.
+She holds out her hand for people to lift her up and carry her, quite
+like a spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry, somewhat like
+that of a kite, wrings her hands quite naturally, as if in despair. She
+eats everything, covers herself with a mat to sleep, and makes a nest of
+grass or leaves, and wipes her face with a leaf.
+
+I presented my double-barrelled gun which is at Ujiji to Katomba, as he
+has been very kind when away from Ujiji: I pay him thus for all his
+services. He gave me the soko, and will carry it to Ujiji for me; I have
+tried to refund all that the Arabs expended on me.
+
+_1st March, 1871._--I was to start this morning, but the Arabs asked me
+to take seven of their people going to buy biramba, as they know the new
+way: the offer was gladly accepted.
+
+_2nd to 5th March, 1871._--Left Mamohela, and travelled over fine grassy
+plains, crossing in six hours fourteen running rills, from three to ten
+or fifteen feet broad, and from calf to thigh deep. Tree-covered
+mountains on both sides. The natives know the rills by names, and
+readily tell their courses, and which falls into which, before all go
+into the great Lualaba; but without one as a guide, no one can put them
+in a map. We came to Monanbunda's villages, and spent the night. Our
+next stage was at Monangongo's. A small present of a few strings of
+beads satisfies, but is not asked: I give it invariably as
+acknowledgment for lodgings. The headman of our next stage hid himself
+in fear, as we were near to the scene of Bin Juma's unprovoked slaughter
+of five men, for tusks that were not stolen, but thrown down. Our path
+lay through dense forest, and again, on 5th, our march was in the same
+dense jungle of lofty trees and vegetation that touch our arms on each
+side. We came to some villages among beautiful tree-covered hills,
+called Basilañgé or Mobasilangé. The villages are very pretty, standing
+on slopes. The main street generally lies east and west, to allow the
+bright sun to stream his clear hot rays from one end to the other, and
+lick up quickly the moisture from the frequent showers which is not
+drained off by the slopes. A little verandah is often made in front of
+the door, and here at dawn the family gathers round a fire, and, while
+enjoying the heat needed in the cold that always accompanies the first
+darting of the light or sun's rays across the atmosphere, inhale the
+delicious air, and talk over their little domestic affairs. The various
+shaped leaves of the forest all around their village and near their
+nestlings are bespangled with myriads of dewdrops. The cocks crow
+vigorously, and strut and ogle; the kids gambol and leap on the backs of
+their dams quietly chewing the cud; other goats make believe fighting.
+Thrifty wives often bake their new clay pots in a fire, made by lighting
+a heap of grass roots: the next morning they extract salt from the
+ashes, and so two birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of this
+morning scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable. Infancy gilds the
+fairy picture with its own lines, and it is probably never forgotten,
+for the young, taken up from slavers, and treated with all philanthropic
+missionary care and kindness, still revert to the period of infancy as
+the finest and fairest they have known. They would go back to freedom
+and enjoyment as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be heedless
+to the charms of hard work and no play which we think so much better
+for them if not for us.
+
+In some cases we found all the villages deserted; the people had fled at
+our approach, in dread of repetitions of the outrages of Arab slaves.
+The doors were all shut: a bunch of the leaves of reeds or of green
+reeds placed across them, means "no entrance here." A few stray chickens
+wander about wailing, having hid themselves while the rest were caught
+and carried off into the deep forest, and the still smoking fires tell
+the same tale of recent flight from the slave-traders.
+
+Many have found out that I am not one of their number, so in various
+cases they stand up and call out loudly, "Bolongo, Bolongo!"
+"Friendship, Friendship!" They sell their fine iron bracelets eagerly
+for a few beads; for (bracelets seem out of fashion since beads came
+in), but they are of the finest quality of iron, and were they nearer
+Europe would be as eagerly sought and bought as horse-shoe nails are for
+the best gun-barrels. I overhear the Manyuema telling each other that I
+am the "good one." I have no slaves, and I owe this character to the
+propagation of a good name by the slaves of Zanzibar, who are anything
+but good themselves. I have seen slaves belonging to the seven men now
+with us slap the cheeks of grown men who had offered food for sale; it
+was done in sheer wantonness, till I threatened to thrash them if I saw
+it again; but out of my sight they did it still, and when I complained
+to the masters they confessed that all the mischief was done by slaves;
+for the Manyuema, on being insulted, lose temper and use their spears on
+the nasty curs, and then vengeance is taken with guns. Free men behave
+better than slaves; the bondmen are not responsible. The Manyuema are
+far more beautiful than either the bond or free of Zanzibar; I overhear
+the remark often, "If we had Manyuema wives what beautiful children we
+should beget." The men are usually handsome, and many of the women are
+very pretty; hands, feet, limbs, and forms perfect in shape and the
+colour light-brown, but the orifices of the nose are widened by
+snuff-takers, who ram it up as far as they can with the finger and
+thumb: the teeth are not filed, except a small space between the two
+upper front teeth.
+
+_5th March, 1871._--We heard to-day that Mohamad's people passed us on
+the west, with much ivory. I lose thus twenty copper rings I was to take
+from them, and all the notes they were to make for me of the rivers they
+crossed.
+
+_6th March, 1871._--Passed through very large villages, with many forges
+in active work; some men followed us, as if to fight, but we got them to
+turn peaceably: we don't know who are enemies, so many have been
+maltreated and had relatives killed. The rain of yesterday made the
+paths so slippery that the feet of all were sorely fatigued, and on
+coming to Manyara's, I resolved to rest on 7th near Mount Kimazi. I gave
+a cloth and beads in lieu of a fine fat goat from the chief, a clever,
+good man.
+
+_9th March, 1871._--We marched about five hours across a grassy plain
+without trees--buga or prairie. The torrid sun, nearly vertical, sent
+his fierce rays down, and fatigued us all: we crossed two Sokoyé streams
+by bridges, and slept at a village on a ridge of woodland overlooking
+Kasonga. After two hours this morning, we came to villages of this
+chief, and at one were welcomed by the Safari of Salem Mokadam, and I
+was given a house. Kasonga is a very fine young man, with European
+features, and "very clever and good." He is clever, and is pronounced
+good, because he eagerly joins the Arabs in marauding! Seeing the
+advantage of firearms, he has bought four muskets. Mohamad's people were
+led by his, and spent all their copper for some fifty frasilahs of good
+ivory. From this party men have been sent over Lualaba, and about fifty
+frasilahs obtained: all praise Kasonga. We were now only six miles from
+Lualaba, and yet south of Mamohela; this great river, in fact, makes a
+second great sweep to the west of some 130 miles, and there are at least
+30' of southing; but now it comes rolling majestically to the north, and
+again makes even easting. It is a mighty stream, with many islands in
+it, and is never wadeable at any point or at any time of the year.
+
+_10th March, 1871._--Mohamad's people are said to have gone to Luapanya,
+a powerful chief, who told them they were to buy all their ivory from
+him: he had not enough, and they wanted to go on to a people who have
+ivory door-posts; but he said, "You shall go neither forward nor
+backwards, but remain here," and he then called an immense body of
+archers, and said, "You must fight these." The consequence was they
+killed Luapanya and many of his people, called Bahika, then crossed a
+very large river, the Morombya or Morombwé, and again the Pembo River,
+but don't seem to have gone very far north. I wished to go from this in
+canoes, but Kasonga has none, so I must tramp for five or six days to
+Moené Lualaba to buy one, if I have credit with Abed.
+
+_11th March, 1871._--I had a long, fierce oration from Amur, in which I
+was told again and again that I should be killed and eaten--the people
+wanted a "white one" to eat! I needed 200 guns; and "must not go to
+die." I told him that I was thankful for advice, if given by one who had
+knowledge, but his vehement threats were dreams of one who had never
+gone anywhere, but sent his slaves to kill people. He was only
+frightening my people, and doing me an injury. I told him that Baker had
+only twelve people, and came near to this: to this he replied "Were the
+people cannibals?" &c. &c.
+
+I left this noisy demagogue, after saying I thanked him for his
+warnings, but saw he knew not what he was saying. The traders from Ujiji
+are simply marauders, and their people worse than themselves, they
+thirst for blood more than for ivory, each longs to be able to tell a
+tale of blood, and the Manyuema are an easy prey. Hassani assaulted the
+people at Moené Lualaba's, and now they keep to the other bank, and I am
+forced to bargain with Kasonga for a canoe, and he sends to a friend for
+one to be seen on the 13th. This Hassani declared to me that he would
+not begin hostilities, but he began nothing else; the prospect of
+getting slaves overpowers all else, and blood flows in horrid streams.
+The Lord look on it! Hassani will have some tale to tell Mohamad
+Bogharib.
+
+[At the outset of his explorations Livingstone fancied that there were
+degrees in the sufferings of slaves, and that the horrors perpetrated by
+the Portuguese of Tette were unknown in the system of slave hunting
+which the Arabs pursue: we now see that a further acquaintance with the
+slave-trade of the Interior has restored the balance of infamy, and that
+the same tale of murder and destruction is common wherever the traffic
+extends, no matter by whom it is carried on.]
+
+_15th March, 1871._--Falsehood seems ingrained in their constitutions:
+no wonder that in all this region they have never tried to propagate
+Islamism; the natives soon learn to hate them, and slaving, as carried
+on by the Kilwans and Ujijians, is so bloody, as to prove an effectual
+barrier against proselytism.
+
+My men are not come back: I fear they are engaged in some broil. In
+confirmation of what I write, some of the party here assaulted a village
+of Kasonga's, killed three men and captured women and children; they
+pretended that they did not know them to be his people, but they did not
+return the captives.
+
+_20th March, 1871._--I am heartsore, and sick of human blood.
+
+_21st March, 1871._--Kasongo's brother's child died, and he asked me to
+remain to-day while he buried the dead, and he would give me a guide
+to-morrow; being rainy I stop willingly. Dugumbé is said to purpose
+going down the river to Kanagumbé River to build on the land Kanagumbé,
+which is a loop formed by the river, and is large. He is believed to
+possess great power of divination, even of killing unfaithful women.
+
+_22nd March, 1871._--I am detained another day by the sickness of one of
+the party. Very cold rain yesterday from the north-west. I hope to go
+to-morrow towards the Lakoni, or great market of this region.
+
+_23rd March, 1871._--Left Kasongo, who gave me a goat and a guide. The
+country is gently undulating, showing green slopes fringed with wood,
+with grass from four to six feet. We reached Katenga's, about five miles
+off. There are many villages, and people passed us carrying loads of
+provisions, and cassava, from the chitoka or market.
+
+_24th March, 1871._--Great rain in the night and morning, and sickness
+of the men prevented our march.
+
+_25th March, 1871._--Went to Mazimwé, 7-1/2 miles off.
+
+_26th March, 1871._--Went four miles and crossed the Kabwimaji; then a
+mile beyond Kahembai, which flows into the Kunda, and it into the
+Lualaba; the country is open, and low hills appear in the north. We met
+a party from the traders at Kasenga, chiefly Materéka's people under
+Salem and Syde bin Sultan; they had eighty-two captives, and say they
+fought ten days to secure them and two of the Malongwana, and two of the
+Banyamwezi. They had about twenty tusks, and carried one of their men
+who broke his leg in fighting; we shall be safe only when past the
+bloodshed and murder.
+
+_27th March, 1871._--We went along a ridge of land overhanging a fine
+valley of denudation, with well-cultivated hills in the distance (N.),
+where Hassani's feat of bloodshed was performed. There are many villages
+on the ridge, some rather tumbledown ones, which always indicate some
+misrule. Our march was about seven miles. A headman who went with us
+plagued another chief to give me a goat; I refused to take what was not
+given willingly, but the slaves secured it; and I threatened our
+companion, Kama, with dismissal from our party if he became a tool in
+slave hands. The arum is common.
+
+_28th March, 1871._--The Banian slaves are again trying compulsion--I
+don't know what for. They refused to take their bead rations, and made
+Chakanga spokesman: I could not listen to it, as he has been concocting
+a mutiny against me. It is excessively trying, and so many difficulties
+have been put in my way I doubt whether the Divine favour and will is on
+my side.
+
+We came six miles to-day, crossing many rivulets running to the Kunda,
+which also we crossed in a canoe; it is almost thirty yards wide and
+deep: afterwards, near the village where we slept, we crossed the Luja
+about twenty yards wide, going into the Kunda and Lualaba. I am greatly
+distressed because there is no law here; they probably mean to create a
+disturbance at Abed's place, to which we are near: the Lord look on it.
+
+_29th March, 1871._--Crossed the Liya, and next day the Moangoi, by two
+well-made wattle bridges at an island in its bed: it is twenty yards,
+and has a very strong current, which makes all the market people fear
+it. We then crossed the Molembé in a canoe, which is fifteen yards, but
+swelled by rains and many rills. Came 7-1/2 miles to sleep at one of the
+outlying villages of Nyangwé: about sixty market people came past us
+from the Chitoka or marketplace, on the banks of Lualaba; they go
+thither at night, and come away about mid-day, having disposed of most of
+their goods by barter. The country is open, and dotted over with trees,
+chiefly a species of Bauhinia, that resists the annual grass burnings;
+there are trees along the watercourses, and many villages, each with a
+host of pigs. This region is low as compared with Tanganyika; about
+2000 feet above the sea.
+
+The headman's house, in which I was lodged, contained the housewife's
+little conveniences, in the shape of forty pots, dishes, baskets,
+knives, mats, all of which she removed to another house: I gave her four
+strings of beads, and go on to-morrow. Crossed the Kunda River and seven
+miles more brought us to Nyañgwé, where we found Abed and Hassani had
+erected their dwellings, and sent their people over Lualaba, and as far
+west as the Loéki or Lomamé. Abed said that my words against
+bloodshedding had stuck into him, and he had given orders to his people
+to give presents to the chiefs, but never fight unless actually
+attacked.
+
+_31st March, 1871._--I went down to take a good look at the Lualaba
+here. It is narrower than it is higher up, but still a mighty river, at
+least 3000 yards broad, and always deep: it can never be waded at any
+point, or at any time of the year; the people unhesitatingly declare
+that if any one tried to ford it, he would assuredly be lost. It has
+many large islands, and at these it is about 2000 yards or one mile. The
+banks are steep and deep: there is clay, and a yellow-clay schist in
+their structure; the other rivers, as the Luya and Kunda, have gravelly
+banks. The current is about two miles an hour away to the north.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[11] The epidemic here mentioned reached Zanzibar Island from the
+interior of Africa by way of the Masai caravan route and Pangani. Dr.
+Kirk says it again entered Africa from Zanzibar, and followed the
+course of the caravans to Ujiji and Manyuema.--ED.
+
+[12] The men give indisputable proof that his body was eaten by the
+Manyuema who lay in ambush.--ED.
+
+[13] Kaniké is a blue calico.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nyañgwé on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomamé.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding.
+
+
+_1st April, 1871._--The banks are well peopled, but one must see the
+gathering at the market, of about 3000, chiefly women, to judge of their
+numbers. They hold market one day, and then omit attendance here for
+three days, going to other markets at other points in the intervals. It
+is a great institution in Manyuema: numbers seem to inspire confidence,
+and they enforce justice for each other. As a rule, all prefer to buy
+and sell in the market, to doing business anywhere else; if one says,
+"Come, sell me that fowl or cloth," the reply is, "Come to the
+'Chitoka,' or marketplace."
+
+_2nd April, 1871._--To-day the market contained over a thousand people,
+carrying earthen pots and cassava, grass cloth, fishes, and fowls; they
+were alarmed at my coming among them and were ready to flee, many stood
+afar off in suspicion; some came from the other side of the river with
+their goods. To-morrow market is held up river.
+
+_3rd April, 1871._--I tried to secure a longitude by fixing a weight on
+the key of the watch, and so helping it on: I will try this in a quiet
+place to-morrow. The people all fear us, and they have good reason for
+it in the villainous conduct of many of the blackguard half-castes which
+alarms them: I cannot get a canoe, so I wait to see what will turn up.
+The river is said to overflow all its banks annually, as the Nile does
+further down. I sounded across yesterday. Near the bank it is 9 feet,
+the rest 15 feet, and one cast in the middle was 20 feet: between the
+islands 12 feet, and 9 feet again in shore: it is a mighty river truly.
+I took distances and altitudes alternately with a bullet for a weight on
+the key of the chronometer, taking successive altitudes of the sun and
+distances of the moon. Possibly the first and last altitudes may give
+the rate of going, and the frequent distances between may give
+approximate longitude.
+
+_4th April, 1871._--Moon, the fourth of the Arabs, will appear in three
+or four days. This will be a guide in ascertaining the day of observing
+the lunars, with the weight.
+
+The Arabs ask many questions about the Bible, and want to know how many
+prophets have appeared, and probably say that they believe in them all;
+while we believe all but reject Mohamad. It is easy to drive them into a
+corner by questioning, as they don't know whither the inquiries lead,
+and they are not offended when their knowledge is, as it were, admitted.
+When asked how many false prophets are known, they appeal to my
+knowledge, and evidently never heard of Balaam, the son of Beor, or of
+the 250 false prophets of Jezebel and Ahab, or of the many lying
+prophets referred to in the Bible.
+
+_6th April, 1871._--Ill from drinking two cups of very sweet malofu, or
+beer, made from bananas: I shall touch it no more.
+
+_7th April, 1871._--Made this ink with the seeds of a plant, called by
+the Arabs Zugifaré; it is known in India, and is used here by the
+Manyuema to dye virambos and ornament faces and heads.[14] I sent my
+people over to the other side to cut wood to build a house for me; the
+borrowed one has mud walls and floors, which are damp, foul, smelling,
+and unwholesome. I shall have grass walls, and grass and reeds on the
+floor of my own house; the free ventilation will keep it sweet. This is
+the season called Masika, the finishing rains, which we have in large
+quantities almost every night, and I could scarcely travel even if I had
+a canoe; still it is trying to be kept back by suspicion, and by the
+wickedness of the wicked.
+
+Some of the Arabs try to be kind, and send cooked food every day: Abed
+is the chief donor. I taught him to make a mosquito-curtain of thin
+printed calico, for he had endured the persecution of these insects
+helplessly, except by sleeping on a high stage, when they were unusually
+bad. The Manyuema often bring evil on themselves by being untrustworthy.
+For instance, I paid one to bring a large canoe to cross the Lualaba, he
+brought a small one, capable of carrying three only, and after wasting
+some hours we had to put off crossing till next day.
+
+_8th April, 1871._--Every headman of four or five huts is a mologhwé, or
+chief, and glories in being called so. There is no political cohesion.
+The Ujijian slavery is an accursed system; but it must be admitted that
+the Manyuema, too, have faults, the result of ignorance of other people:
+their isolation has made them as unconscious of danger in dealing with
+the cruel stranger, as little dogs in the presence of lions. Their
+refusal to sell or lend canoes for fear of blame by each other will be
+ended by the party of Dugumbé, which has ten headmen, taking them by
+force; they are unreasonable and bloody-minded towards each other: every
+Manyuema would like every other headman slain; they are subjected to
+bitter lessons and sore experience. Abed went over to Mologhwé Kahembé
+and mixed blood with him; he was told that two large canoes were
+hollowed out, and nearly ready to be brought for sale; if this can be
+managed peaceably it is a great point gained, and I may get one at our
+Arabs' price, which may be three or four times the native price. There
+is no love lost among the three Arabs here.
+
+_9th April, 1871._--Cut wood for my house. The Loéki is said by slaves
+who have come thence to be much larger than the Lualaba, but on the
+return of Abed's people from the west we shall obtain better
+information.
+
+_10th April, 1871._--Chitoka, or market, to-day. I counted upwards of
+700 passing my door. With market women it seems to be a pleasure of life
+to haggle and joke, and laugh and cheat: many come eagerly, and retire
+with careworn faces; many are beautiful, and many old; all carry very
+heavy loads of dried cassava and earthen pots, which they dispose of
+very cheaply for palm-oil, fish, salt, pepper, and relishes for their
+food. The men appear in gaudy lambas, and carry little save their iron
+wares, fowls, grass cloth, and pigs.
+
+Bought the fish with the long snouts: very good eating.
+
+_12th April, 1871._--New moon last night; fourth Arab month: I am at a
+loss for the day of the month. My new house is finished; a great
+comfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin: bugs (Tapazi, or
+ticks), that follow wherever Arabs go, made me miserable, but the Arabs
+are insensible to them; Abed alone had a mosquito-curtain, and he never
+could praise it enough. One of his remarks is, "If slaves think you
+fear them, they will climb over you." I clothed mine for nothing, and
+ever after they have tried to ride roughshod over me, and mutiny on
+every occasion!
+
+_14th April, 1871._--Kahembé came over, and promises to bring a canoe;
+but he is not to be trusted; he presented Abed with two slaves, and is
+full of fair promises about the canoe, which he sees I am anxious to
+get. They all think that my buying a canoe means carrying war to the
+left bank; and now my Banian slaves encourage the idea: "He does not
+wish slaves nor ivory," say they, "but a canoe, in order to kill
+Manyuema." Need it be wondered at that people, who had never heard of
+strangers or white men before I popped down among them, believed the
+slander? The slaves were aided in propagating the false accusation by
+the half-caste Ujijian slaves at the camp. Hassani fed them every day;
+and, seeing that he was a bigoted Moslem, they equalled him in prayers
+in his sitting-place seven or eight times a day! They were adepts at
+lying, and the first Manyuema words they learned were used to propagate
+falsehood.
+
+I have been writing part of a despatch, in case of meeting people from
+the French settlement on the Gaboon at Loéki, but the canoe affair is
+slow and tedious: the people think only of war: they are a bloody-minded
+race.
+
+_15th April, 1871._--The Manyuema tribe, called Bagenya, occupy the left
+bank, opposite Nyañgwé. A spring of brine rises in the bed of a river,
+named Lofubu, and this the Bayenga inspissate by boiling, and sell the
+salt at market. The Lomamé is about ten days west of Lualaba, and very
+large; the confluence of Lomamé, or Loéki, is about six days down below
+Nyañgwé by canoe; the river Nyanzé is still less distant.
+
+_16th April, 1871._--On the Nyanzé stands the principal town and market
+of the chief, Zurampela. Rashid visited him, and got two slaves on
+promising to bring a war-party from Abed against Chipangé, who by
+similar means obtained the help of Salem Mokadam to secure eighty-two
+captives: Rashid will leave this as soon as possible, sell the slaves,
+and leave Zurampela to find out the fraud! This deceit, which is an
+average specimen of the beginning of half-caste dealings, vitiates his
+evidence of a specimen of cannibalism which he witnessed; but it was
+after a fight that the victims were cut up, and this agrees with the
+fact that the Manyuema eat only those who are killed in war. Some have
+averred that captives, too, are eaten, and a slave is bought with a goat
+to be eaten; but this I very strongly doubt.
+
+_17th April, 1871._--Rainy.
+
+_18th April, 1871._--I found that the Lepidosiren is brought to market
+in pots with water in them, also white ants roasted, and the large
+snail, achetina, and a common snail: the Lepidosiren is called
+"_sembé_."
+
+Abed went a long way to examine a canoe, but it was still further, and
+he turned back.
+
+_19th April, 1871._--Dreary waiting, but Abed proposes to join and trade
+along with me: this will render our party stronger, and he will not
+shoot people in my company; we shall hear Katomba's people's story too.
+
+_20th April, 1871._--Katomba a chief was to visit us yesterday, but
+failed, probably through fear.
+
+The chief Mokandira says that Loéki is small where it joins Lualaba, but
+another, which they call Lomamé, is very much larger, and joins Lualaba
+too: rapids are reported on it.
+
+_21st April, 1871._--A common salutation reminds me of the Bechuana's "U
+le hatsi" (thou art on earth); "Ua tala" (thou lookest); "Ua boka," or
+byoka (thou awakest); "U ri ho" (thou art here); "U li koni" (thou art
+here)--about pure "Sichuana," and "Nya," No, is identical. The men here
+deny that cannibalism is common: they eat only those killed in war, and,
+it seems, in revenge, for, said Mokandira, "the meat is not nice; it
+makes one dream of the dead man." Some west of Lualaba eat even those
+bought for the purpose of a feast; but I am not quite positive on this
+point: all agree in saying that human flesh is saltish, and needs but
+little condiment. And yet they are a fine-looking race; I would back a
+company of Manyuema men to be far superior in shape of head and
+generally in physical form too against the whole Anthropological
+Society. Many of the women are very light-coloured and very pretty; they
+dress in a kilt of many folds of gaudy lambas.
+
+_22nd April, 1871._--In Manyuema, here Kusi, Kunzi, is north; Mhuru,
+south; Nkanda, west, or other side Lualaba; Mazimba, east. The people
+are sometimes confused in name by the directions; thus Bankanda is only
+"the other side folk." The Bagenya Chimburu came to visit me, but I did
+not see him, nor did I know Moené Nyañgwé till too late to do him
+honour; in fact, every effort was made to keep me in the dark while the
+slavers of Ujiji made all smooth for themselves to get canoes. All
+chiefs claim the privilege of shaking hands, that is, they touch the
+hand held out with their palm, then clap two hands together, then touch
+again, and clap again, and the ceremony concludes: this frequency of
+shaking hands misled me when the great man came.
+
+_24th April, 1871._--Old feuds lead the Manyuema to entrap the traders
+to fight: they invite them to go to trade, and tell them that at such a
+village plenty of ivory lies; then when the trader goes with his people,
+word is sent that he is coming to fight, and he is met by enemies, who
+compel him to defend himself by their onslaught. We were nearly
+entrapped in this way by a chief pretending to guide us through the
+country near Basilañgé; he would have landed us in a fight, but we
+detected his drift, changed our course so as to mislead any messengers
+he might have sent, and dismissed him with some sharp words.
+
+Lake Kamolondo is about twenty-five miles broad. The Lufira at Katanga
+is a full bow-shot wide; it goes into Kamolondo. Chakomo is east of
+Lufira Junction. Kikonzé Kalanza is on the west of it, and Mkana, or the
+underground dwellings, still further west: some are only two days from
+Katanga. The Chorwé people are friendly. Kamolondo is about ten days
+distant from Katanga.
+
+_25th April, 1871._--News came that four men sent by Abed to buy ivory
+had been entrapped, and two killed. The rest sent for aid to punish the
+murderers, and Abed wished me to send my people to bring the remaining
+two men back. I declined; because, no matter what charges I gave, my
+Banian slaves would be sure to shed human blood. We can go nowhere but
+the people of the country ask us to kill their fellow-men, nor can they
+be induced to go to villages three miles off, because there, in all
+probability, live the murderers of fathers, uncles, or grandfathers--a
+dreadful state truly. The traders are as bloodthirsty every whit as the
+Manyuema, where no danger exists, but in most cases where the people can
+fight they are as civil as possible. At Moeré Mpanda's, the son of
+Casembe, Mohamad Bogharib left a debt of twenty-eight slaves and eight
+bars of copper, each seventy pounds, and did not dare to fire a shot
+because they saw they had met their match: here his headmen are said to
+have bound the headmen of villages till a ransom was paid in tusks! Had
+they only gone three days further to the Babisa, to whom Moene-mokaia's
+men went, they would have got fine ivory at two rings a tusk, while they
+had paid from ten to eighteen. Here it is as sad a tale to tell as was
+that of the Manganja scattered and peeled by the Waiyau agents of the
+Portuguese of Tétte. The good Lord look on it.
+
+_26th April, 1871._--Chitovu called nine slaves bought by Abed's people
+from the Kuss country, west of the Lualaba, and asked them about their
+tribes and country for me. One, with his upper front teeth extracted,
+was of the tribe Maloba, on the other side of the Loéki, another comes
+from the River Lombadzo, or Lombazo, which is west of Loéki (this may be
+another name for the Lomamé), the country is called Nanga, and the tribe
+Noñgo, chief Mpunzo. The Malobo tribe is under the chiefs Yunga and
+Lomadyo. Another toothless boy said that he came from the Lomamé: the
+upper teeth extracted seem to say that the tribe have cattle; the
+knocking out the teeth is in imitation of the animals they almost
+worship. No traders had ever visited them; this promises ivory to the
+present visitors: all that is now done with the ivory there is to make
+rude blowing horns and bracelets.
+
+_27th April, 1871._--Waiting wearily and anxiously; we cannot move
+people who are far off and make them come near with news. Even the
+owners of canoes say, "Yes, yes; we shall bring them," but do not stir;
+they doubt us, and my slaves increase the distrust by their lies to the
+Manyuema.
+
+_28th April, 1871._--Abed sent over Manyuema to buy slaves for him and
+got a pretty woman for 300 cowries and a hundred strings of beads; she
+can be sold again to an Arab for much more in ivory. Abed himself gave
+$130 for a woman-cook, and she fled to me when put in chains for some
+crime: I interceded, and she was loosed: I advised her not to offend
+again, because I could not beg for her twice.
+
+Hassani with ten slaves dug at the malachite mines of Katanga for three
+months, and gained a hundred frasilahs of copper, or 3500 lbs. We hear
+of a half-caste reaching the other side of Lomamé, probably from Congo
+or Ambriz, but the messengers had not seen him.
+
+_1st May, 1871._--Katomba's people arrived from the Babisa, where they
+sold all their copper at two rings for a tusk, and then found that
+abundance of ivory still remained: door-posts and house-pillars had been
+made of ivory which now was rotten. The people of Babisa kill elephants
+now and bring tusks by the dozen, till the traders get so many that in
+this case they carried them by three relays. They dress their hair like
+the Bashukulompo, plaited into upright basket helmets: no quarrel
+occurred, and great kindness was shown to the strangers. A river having
+very black water, the Nyengeré, flows into Lualaba from the west, and it
+becomes itself very large: another river or water, Shamikwa, falls into
+it from the south-west, and it becomes still larger: this is probably
+the Lomamé. A short-horned antelope is common.
+
+_3rd May, 1871._--Abed informs me that a canoe will come in five days.
+Word was sent after me by the traders south of us not to aid me, as I
+was sure to die where I was going: the wish is father to the thought!
+Abed was naturally very anxious to get first into the Babisa ivory
+market, yet he tried to secure a canoe for me before he went, but he was
+too eager, and a Manyuema man took advantage of his desire, and came
+over the river and said that he had one hollowed out, and he wanted
+goats and beads to hire people to drag it down to the water. Abed on my
+account advanced five goats, a thousand cowries, and many beads, and
+said that he would tell me what he wished in return: this was debt, but
+I was so anxious to get away I was content to take the canoe on any
+terms. However, it turned out that the matter on the part of the headman
+whom Abed trusted was all deception: he had no canoe at all, but knew of
+one belonging to another man, and wished to get Abed and me to send men
+to see it--in fact, to go with their guns, and he would manage to
+embroil them with the real owner, so that some old feud should be
+settled to his satisfaction. On finding that I declined to be led into
+his trap, he took a female slave to the owner, and on his refusal to
+sell the canoe for her, it came out that he had adopted a system of
+fraud to Abed. He had victimized Abed, who was naturally inclined to
+believe his false statements, and get off to the ivory market. His
+people came from the Kuss country in the west with sixteen tusks, and a
+great many slaves bought and not murdered for. The river is rising fast,
+and bringing down large quantities of aquatic grass, duckweed, &c. The
+water is a little darker in colour than at Cairo. People remove and
+build their huts on the higher forest lands adjacent. Many white birds
+(the paddy bird) appear, and one Ibis religiosa; they pass north.
+
+The Bakuss live near Lomamé; they were very civil and kind to the
+strangers, but refused passage into the country. At my suggestion, the
+effect of a musket-shot was shown on a goat: they thought it
+supernatural, looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to buy
+the charm that could draw lightning down. When it was afterwards
+attempted to force a path, they darted aside on seeing the Banyamwezi's
+followers putting the arrows into the bowstrings, but stood in mute
+amazement looking at the guns, which mowed them down in large numbers.
+They thought that muskets were the insignia of chieftainship. Their
+chiefs all go with a long straight staff of rattan, having a quantity of
+black medicine smeared on each end, and no weapons in their hands: they
+imagined that the guns were carried as insignia of the same kind; some,
+jeering in the south, called them big tobacco-pipes; they have no fear
+on seeing a gun levelled at them.
+
+They use large and very long spears very expertly in the long grass and
+forest of their country, and are terrible fellows among themselves, and
+when they become acquainted with firearms will be terrible to the
+strangers who now murder them. The Manyuema say truly, "If it were not
+for your guns, not one of you would ever return to your country." The
+Bakuss cultivate more than the southern Manyuema, especially Pennisetum
+and dura, or _Holeus sorghum;_ common coffee is abundant, and they use
+it, highly scented with vanilla, which must be fertilized by insects;
+they hand round cups of it after meals. Pineapples too are abundant.
+They bathe regularly twice a day: their houses are of two storeys. The
+women have rather compressed heads, but very pleasant countenances; and
+ancient Egyptian, round, wide-awake eyes. Their numbers are prodigious;
+the country literally swarms with people, and a chief's town extends
+upwards of a mile. But little of the primeval forest remains. Many large
+pools of standing water have to be crossed, but markets are held every
+eight or ten miles from each other, and to these the people come from
+far, for the market is as great an institution as shopping is with the
+civilized. Illicit intercourse is punished by the whole of the
+offender's family being enslaved.
+
+The Bakuss smelt copper from the ore and sell it very cheaply to the
+traders for beads. The project of going in canoes now appeared to the
+half-castes so plausible, that they all tried to get the Bagenya on the
+west bank to lend them, and all went over to mix blood and make friends
+with the owners, then all slandered me as not to be trusted, as they
+their blood-relations were; and my slaves mutinied and would go no
+further. They mutinied three times here, and Hassani harboured them till
+I told him that, if an English officer harboured an Arab slave he would
+be compelled by the Consul to refund the price, and I certainly would
+not let him escape; this frightened him; but I was at the mercy of
+slaves who had no honour, and no interest in going into danger.
+
+_16th May, 1871._--Abed gave me a frasilah of Matunda beads, and I
+returned fourteen fathoms of fine American sheeting, but it was an
+obligation to get beads from one whose wealth depended on exchanging
+beads for ivory.
+
+_16th May, 1871._--At least 3000 people at market to-day, and my going
+among them has taken away the fear engendered by the slanders of slaves
+and traders, for all are pleased to tell me the names of the fishes and
+other things. Lepidosirens are caught by the neck and lifted out of the
+pot to show their fatness. Camwood ground and made into flat cakes for
+sale and earthen balls, such as are eaten in the disease safura or
+earth-eating, are offered and there is quite a roar of voices in the
+multitude, haggling. It was pleasant to be among them compared to being
+with the slaves, who were all eager to go back to Zanzibar: some told me
+that they were slaves, and required a free man to thrash them, and
+proposed to go back to Ujiji for one. I saw no hope of getting on with
+them, and anxiously longed for the arrival of Dugumbé; and at last Abed
+overheard them plotting my destruction. "If forced to go on, they would
+watch till the first difficulty arose with the Manyuema, then fire off
+their guns, run away, and as I could not run as fast as they, leave me
+to perish." Abed overheard them speaking loudly, and advised me strongly
+not to trust myself to them any more, as they would be sure to cause my
+death. He was all along a sincere friend, and I could not but take his
+words as well-meant and true.
+
+_18th May, 1871._--Abed gave me 200 cowries and some green beads. I was
+at the point of disarming my slaves and driving them away, when they
+relented, and professed to be willing to go anywhere; so, being eager to
+finish my geographical work, I said I would run the risk of their
+desertion, and gave beads to buy provisions for a start north. I cannot
+state how much I was worried by these wretched slaves, who did much to
+annoy me, with the sympathy of all the slaving crew. When baffled by
+untoward circumstances the bowels plague me too, and discharges of blood
+relieve the headache, and are as safety-valves to the system. I was
+nearly persuaded to allow Mr. Syme to operate on me when last in
+England, but an old friend told me that his own father had been operated
+on by the famous John Hunter, and died in consequence at the early age
+of forty. His advice saved me, for this complaint has been my
+safety-valve.
+
+The Zingifuré, or red pigment, is said to be a cure for itch common
+among both natives and Arab slaves and Arab children.
+
+_20th May, 1871._--Abed called Kalonga the headman, who beguiled him as
+I soon found, and delivered the canoe he had bought formally to me, and
+went off down the Lualaba on foot to buy the Babisa ivory. I was to
+follow in the canoe and wait for him in the River Luéra, but soon I
+ascertained that the canoe was still in the forest, and did not belong
+to Kalonga. On demanding back the price he said, "Let Abed come and I
+will give it to him;" then when I sent to force him to give up the
+goods, all his village fled into the forest: I now tried to buy one
+myself from the Bagenya, but there was no chance; so long as the
+half-caste traders needed any they got all--nine large canoes, and I
+could not secure one.
+
+_24th May, 1871._--The market is a busy scene--everyone is in dead
+earnest--little time is lost in friendly greetings; vendors of fish run
+about with potsherds full of snails or small fishes or young _Clarias
+capensis_ smoke-dried and spitted on twigs, or other relishes to
+exchange for cassava roots dried after being steeped about three days in
+water--potatoes, vegetables, or grain, bananas, flour, palm-oil, fowls,
+salt, pepper; each is intensely eager to barter food for relishes, and
+makes strong assertions as to the goodness or badness of everything: the
+sweat stands in beads on their faces--cocks crow briskly, even when
+slung over the shoulder with their heads hanging down, and pigs squeal.
+Iron knobs, drawn out at each end to show the goodness of the metal, are
+exchanged for cloth of the Muabé palm. They have a large funnel of
+basket-work below the vessel holding the wares, and slip the goods down
+if they are not to be seen. They deal fairly, and when differences arise
+they are easily settled by the men interfering or pointing to me: they
+appeal to each other, and have a strong sense of natural justice. With
+so much food changing hands amongst the three thousand attendants much
+benefit is derived; some come from twenty to twenty-five miles. The men
+flaunt about in gaudy-coloured lambas of many folded kilts--the women
+work hardest--the potters slap and ring their earthenware all round, to
+show that there is not a single flaw in them. I bought two finely shaped
+earthen bottles of porous earthenware, to hold a gallon each, for one
+string of beads, the women carry huge loads of them in their funnels
+above the baskets, strapped to the shoulders and forehead, and their
+hands are full besides; the roundness of the vessels is wonderful,
+seeing no machine is used: no slaves could be induced to carry half as
+much as they do willingly. It is a scene of the finest natural acting
+imaginable. The eagerness with which all sorts of assertions are
+made--the eager earnestness with which apparently all creation, above,
+around, and beneath, is called on to attest the truth of what they
+allege--and then the intense surprise and withering scorn cast on those
+who despise their goods: but they show no concern when the buyers turn
+up their noses at them. Little girls run about selling cups of water for
+a few small fishes to the half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it was
+an amusing scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off their
+glib tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to need
+interpretation.
+
+_27th May, 1871._--Hassani told me that since he had come, no Manyuema
+had ever presented him with a single mouthful of food, not even a potato
+or banana, and he had made many presents. Going from him into the market
+I noticed that one man presented a few small fishes, another a sweet
+potato and a piece of cassava, and a third two small fishes, but the
+Manyuema are not a liberal people. Old men and women who remained in the
+half-deserted villages we passed through in coming north, often ran
+forth to present me with bananas, but it seemed through fear; when I sat
+down and ate the bananas they brought beer of bananas, and I paid for
+all. A stranger in the market had ten human under jaw-bones hung by a
+string over his shoulder: on inquiry he professed to have killed and
+eaten the owners, and showed with his knife how he cut up his victim.
+When I expressed disgust he and others laughed. I see new faces every
+market-day. Two nice girls were trying to sell their venture, which was
+roasted white ants, called "Gumbé."
+
+_30th May, 1871._--The river fell four inches during the last four days;
+the colour is very dark brown, and large quantities of aquatic plants
+and trees float down. Mologhwé, or chief Ndambo, came and mixed blood
+with the intensely bigoted Moslem, Hassani: this is to secure the nine
+canoes. He next went over to have more palaver about them, and they do
+not hesitate to play me false by detraction. The Manyuema, too, are
+untruthful, but very honest; we never lose an article by them: fowls and
+goats are untouched, and if a fowl is lost, we know that it has been
+stolen by an Arab slave. When with Mohamad Bogharib, we had all to keep
+our fowls at the Manyuema villages to prevent them being stolen by our
+own slaves, and it is so here. Hassani denies complicity with them, but
+it is quite apparent that he and others encourage them in mutiny.
+
+_5th June, 1871._--The river rose again six inches and fell three. Rain
+nearly ceased, and large masses of fleecy clouds float down here from
+the north-west, with accompanying cold.
+
+_7th June, 1871._--I fear that I must march on foot, but the mud is
+forbidding.
+
+_11th June, 1871._--New moon last night, and I believe Dugumbé will
+leave Kasonga's to-day. River down three inches.
+
+_14th June, 1871._--Hassani got nine canoes, and put sixty-three persons
+in three; I cannot get one. Dugumbé reported near, but detained by his
+divination, at which he is an expert; hence his native name is
+"Molembalemba"--"writer, writing."
+
+_16th June, 1871._--The high winds and drying of soap and sugar tell
+that the rains are now over in this part.
+
+_18th June, 1871._--Dugumbé arrived, but passed to Moené Nyañgwé's, and
+found that provisions were so scarce, and dear there, as compared with
+our market, that he was fain to come back to us. He has a large party
+and 500 guns. He is determined to go into new fields of trade, and has
+all his family with him, and intends to remain six or seven years,
+sending regularly to Ujiji for supplies of goods.
+
+_20th June, 1871._--Two of Dugumbé's party brought presents of four
+large fundos of beads each. All know that my goods are unrighteously
+detained by Shereef and they show me kindness, which I return by some
+fine calico which I have. Among the first words Dugumbé said to me were,
+"Why your own slaves are your greatest enemies: I will buy you a canoe,
+but the Banian slaves' slanders have put all the Manyuema against you."
+I knew that this was true, and that they were conscious of the sympathy
+of the Ujijian traders, who hate to have me here.
+
+_24th June, 1871._--Hassani's canoe party in the river were foiled by
+narrows, after they had gone down four days. Rocks jut out on both
+sides, not opposite, but alternate to each other; and the vast mass of
+water of the great river jammed in, rushes round one promontory on to
+another, and a frightful whirlpool is formed in which the first canoe
+went and was overturned, and five lives lost. Had I been there, mine
+would have been the first canoe, for the traders would have made it a
+point of honour to give me the precedence (although actually to make a
+feeler of me), while they looked on in safety. The men in charge of
+Hassani's canoes were so frightened by this accident that they at once
+resolved to return, though they had arrived in the country of the ivory:
+they never looked to see whether the canoes could be dragged past the
+narrows, as anyone else would have done. No better luck could be
+expected after all their fraud and duplicity in getting the canoes; no
+harm lay in obtaining them, but why try to prevent me getting one?
+
+_27th June, 1871._--In answer to my prayers for preservation, I was
+prevented going down to the narrows, formed by a dyke of mountains
+cutting across country, and jutting a little ajar, which makes the water
+in an enormous mass wheel round behind it helplessly, and if the canoes
+reach the rock against which the water dashes, they are almost certainly
+overturned. As this same dyke probably cuts across country to Lomamé, my
+plan of going to the confluence and then up won't do, for I should have
+to go up rapids there. Again, I was prevented from going down Luamo, and
+on the north of its confluence another cataract mars navigation in the
+Lualaba, and my safety is thereby secured. We don't always know the
+dangers that we are guided past.
+
+_28th June, 1871._--The river has fallen two feet: dark brown water, and
+still much wreck floating down.
+
+Eight villages are in flames, set fire to by a slave of Syde bin Habib,
+called Manilla, who thus shows his blood friends of the Bagenya how well
+he can fight against the Mohombo, whose country the Bagenya want! The
+stragglers of this camp are over on the other side helping Manilla, and
+catching fugitives and goats. The Bagenya are fishermen by taste and
+profession, and sell the produce of their nets and weirs to those who
+cultivate the soil, at the different markets. Manilla's foray is for an
+alleged debt of three slaves, and ten villages are burned.
+
+_30th June, 1871._--Hassani pretended that he was not aware of Manilla's
+foray, and when I denounced it to Manilla himself, he showed that he was
+a slave, by cringing and saying nothing except something about the debt
+of three slaves.
+
+_1st July, 1871._--I made known my plan to Dugumbé, which was to go
+west with his men to Lomamé, then by his aid buy a canoe and go up Lake
+Lincoln to Katanga and the fountains, examine the inhabited caves, and
+return here, if he would let his people bring me goods from Ujiji; he
+again referred to all the people being poisoned in mind against me, but
+was ready to do everything in his power for my success. My own people
+persuaded the Bagenya not to sell a canoe: Hassani knows it all, but
+swears that he did not join in the slander, and even points up to Heaven
+in attestation of innocence of all, even of Manilla's foray. Mohamadans
+are certainly famous as liars, and the falsehood of Mohamad has been
+transmitted to his followers in a measure unknown in other religions.
+
+_2nd July, 1871._--The upper stratum of clouds is from the north-west,
+the lower from the south-east; when they mix or change places the
+temperature is much lowered, and fever ensues. The air evidently comes
+from the Atlantic, over the low swampy lands of the West Coast. Morning
+fogs show that the river is warmer than the air.
+
+_4th July, 1871._--Hassani off down river in high dudgeon at the cowards
+who turned after reaching the ivory country. He leaves them here and
+goes himself, entirely on land. I gave him hints to report himself and
+me to Baker, should he meet any of his headmen.
+
+_5th July, 1871._--The river has fallen three feet in all, that is one
+foot since 27th June.
+
+I offer Dugumbé $2000, or 400_l._, for ten men to replace the Banian
+slaves, and enable me to go up the Lomamé to Katanga and the underground
+dwellings, then return and go up by Tanganyika to Ujiji, and I added
+that I would give all the goods I had at Ujiji besides: he took a few
+days to consult with his associates.
+
+_6th July, 1871._--Mokandira, and other headmen, came with a present of
+a pig and a goat on my being about to depart west. I refused to receive
+them till my return, and protested against the slander of my wishing to
+kill people, which they all knew, but did not report to me: this refusal
+and protest will ring all over the country.
+
+_7th July, 1871._--I was annoyed by a woman frequently beating a slave
+near my house, but on my reproving her she came and apologized. I told
+her to speak softly to her slave, as she was now the only mother the
+girl had; the slave came from beyond Lomamé, and was evidently a lady in
+her own land; she calls her son Mologwé, or chief, because his father
+was a headman.
+
+Dugumbé advised my explaining my plan of procedure to the slaves, and he
+evidently thinks that I wish to carry it towards them with a high hand.
+I did explain all the exploration I intended to do: for instance, the
+fountains of Herodotus--beyond Katanga--Katanga itself, and the
+underground dwellings, and then return. They made no remarks, for they
+are evidently pleased to have me knuckling down to them; when pressed on
+the point of proceeding, they say they will only go with Dugumbé's men
+to the Lomamé, and then return. River fallen three inches since the 5th.
+
+_10th July, 1871._--Manyuema children do not creep, as European children
+do, on their knees, but begin by putting forward one foot and using one
+knee. Generally a Manyuema child uses both feet and both hands, but
+never both knees: one Arab child did the same; he never crept, but got
+up on both feet, holding on till he could walk.
+
+New moon last night of seventh Arab month.
+
+_11th July, 1871._--I bought the different species of fish brought to
+market, in order to sketch eight of them, and compare them with those of
+the Nile lower down: most are the same as in Nyassa. A very active
+species of Glanis, of dark olive-brown, was not sketched, but a spotted
+one, armed with offensive spikes in the dorsal and pectoral fins, was
+taken. Sesamum seed is abundant just now and cakes are made of
+ground-nuts, as on the West Coast. Dugumbé's horde tried to deal in the
+market in a domineering way. "I shall buy that," said one. "These are
+mine," said another; "no one must touch them but me," but the
+market-women taught them that they could not monopolize, but deal
+fairly. They are certainly clever traders, and keep each other in
+countenance, they stand by each other, and will not allow overreaching,
+and they give food astonishingly cheap: once in the market they have no
+fear.
+
+_12th and 13th July 1871._--The Banian slaves declared before Dugumbé
+that they would go to the River Lomamé, but no further: he spoke long to
+them, but they will not consent to go further. When told that they would
+thereby lose all their pay, they replied, "Yes, but not our lives," and
+they walked off from him muttering, which is insulting to one of his
+rank. I then added, "I have goods at Ujiji; I don't know how many, but
+they are considerable, take them all, and give me men to finish my work;
+if not enough, I will add to them, only do not let me be forced to
+return now I am so near the end of my undertaking." He said he would
+make a plan in conjunction with his associates, and report to me.
+
+_14th July, 1871._--I am distressed and perplexed what to do so as not
+to be foiled, but all seems against me.
+
+_15th July, 1871._--The reports of guns on the other side of the Lualaba
+all the morning tell of the people of Dugumbé murdering those of Kimburu
+and others who mixed blood with Manilla. "Manilla is a slave, and how
+dares he to mix blood with chiefs who ought only to make friends with
+free men like us"--this is their complaint. Kimburu gave Manilla three
+slaves, and he sacked ten villages in token of friendship; he proposed
+to give Dugumbé nine slaves in the same operation, but Dugumbé's people
+destroy his villages, and shoot and make his people captives to punish
+Manilla; to make an impression, in fact, in the country that they alone
+are to be dealt with--"make friends with us, and not with Manilla or
+anyone else"--such is what they insist upon.
+
+About 1500 people came to market, though many villages of those that
+usually come from the other side were now in flames, and every now and
+then a number of shots were fired on the fugitives.
+
+It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the market I saw Adie and
+Manilla, and three of the men who had lately come with Dugumbé. I was
+surprised to see these three with their guns, and felt inclined to
+reprove them, as one of my men did, for bringing weapons into the
+market, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being very hot,
+I was walking away to go out of the market, when I saw one of the
+fellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before I had got
+thirty yards out, the discharge of two guns in the middle of the crowd
+told me that slaughter had begun: crowds dashed off from the place, and
+threw down their wares in confusion, and ran. At the same time that the
+three opened fire on the mass of people near the upper end of the
+marketplace volleys were discharged from a party down near the creek on
+the panic-stricken women, who dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty or
+more, were jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in the
+terror that seized all. The canoes were not to be got out, for the creek
+was too small for so many; men and women, wounded by the balls, poured
+into them, and leaped and scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long
+line of heads in the river showed that great numbers struck out for an
+island a full mile off: in going towards it they had to put the left
+shoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if they had struck
+away diagonally to the opposite bank, the current would have aided them,
+and, though nearly three miles off, some would have gained land: as it
+was, the heads above water showed the long line of those that would
+inevitably perish.
+
+Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and perishing.
+Some of the long line of heads disappeared quietly; whilst other poor
+creatures threw their arms high, as if appealing to the great Father
+above, and sank. One canoe took in as many as it could hold, and all
+paddled with hands and arms: three canoes, got out in haste, picked up
+sinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared. One man
+in a long canoe, which could have held forty or fifty, had clearly lost
+his head; he had been out in the stream before the massacre began, and
+now paddled up the river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning.
+By-and-bye all the heads disappeared; some had turned down stream
+towards the bank, and escaped. Dugumbé put people into one of the
+deserted vessels to save those in the water, and saved twenty-one, but
+one woman refused to be taken on board from thinking that she was to be
+made a slave of; she preferred the chance of life by swimming, to the
+lot of a slave: the Bagenya women are expert in the water, as they are
+accustomed to dive for oysters, and those who went down stream may have
+escaped, but the Arabs themselves estimated the loss of life at between
+330 and 400 souls. The shooting-party near the canoes were so reckless,
+they killed two of their own people; and a Banyamwezi follower, who got
+into a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water, went down, then
+came up again, and down to rise no more.
+
+My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumbé protested
+against my getting into a blood-feud, and I was thankful afterwards that
+I took his advice. Two wretched Moslems asserted "that the firing was
+done by the people of the English;" I asked one of them why he lied so,
+and he could utter no excuse: no other falsehood came to his aid as he
+stood abashed, before me, and so telling him not to tell palpable
+falsehoods, I left him gaping.
+
+After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Tagamoio, who was
+the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on the people there and fire
+their villages. As I write I hear the loud wails on the left bank over
+those who are there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the
+depths of Lualaba. Oh, let Thy kingdom come! No one will ever know the
+exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning, it gave me the
+impression of being in Hell. All the slaves in the camp rushed at the
+fugitives on land, and plundered them: women were for hours collecting
+and carrying loads of what had been thrown down in terror.
+
+Some escaped to me, and were protected: Dugumbé saved twenty-one, and
+of his own accord liberated them, they were brought to me, and
+remained over night near my house. One woman of the saved had a
+musket-ball through the thigh, another in the arm. I sent men with our
+flag to save some, for without a flag they might have been victims,
+for Tagamoio's people were shooting right and left like fiends. I
+counted twelve villages burning this morning. I asked the question of
+Dugumbé and others, "Now for what is all this murder?" All blamed
+Manilla as its cause, and in one sense he was the cause; but it is
+hardly credible that they repeat it is in order to be avenged on
+Manilla for making friends with headmen, he being a slave. I cannot
+believe it fully. The wish to make an impression in the country as to
+the importance and greatness of the new comers was the most potent
+motive; but it was terrible that the murdering of so many should be
+contemplated at all. It made me sick at heart. Who could accompany the
+people of Dugumbé and Tagamoio to Lomamé and be free from
+blood-guiltiness?
+
+I proposed to Dugumbé to catch the murderers, and hang them up in the
+marketplace, as our protest against the bloody deeds before the
+Manyuema. If, as he and others added, the massacre was committed by
+Manilla's people, he would have consented; but it was done by
+Tagamoio's people, and others of this party, headed by Dugumbé. This
+slaughter was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we have always heard
+that women coming to or from market have never been known to be
+molested: even when two districts are engaged in actual hostilities,
+"the women," say they, "pass among us to market unmolested," nor has one
+ever been known to be plundered by the men. These Nigger Moslems are
+inferior to the Manyuema in justice and right. The people under Hassani
+began the superwickedness of capture and pillage of all
+indiscriminately. Dugumbé promised to send over men to order Tagamoio's
+men to cease firing and burning villages; they remained over among the
+ruins, feasting on goats and fowls all night, and next day (16th)
+continued their infamous work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed.
+
+_16th July, 1871._--I restored upwards of thirty of the rescued to their
+friends: Dugumbé seemed to act in good faith, and kept none of them; it
+was his own free will that guided him. Women are delivered to their
+husbands, and about thirty-three canoes left in the creek are to be kept
+for the owners too.
+
+12 A.M.--Shooting still going on on the other side, and many captives
+caught. At 1 P.M. Tagamoio's people began to cross over in canoes,
+beating their drums, firing their guns, and shouting, as if to say, "See
+the conquering heroes come;" they are answered by the women of Dugumba's
+camp lullilooing, and friends then fire off their guns in joy. I count
+seventeen villages in flames, and the smoke goes straight up and forms
+clouds at the top of the pillar, showing great heat evolved, for the
+houses are full of carefully-prepared firewood. Dugumbé denies having
+sent Tagamoio on this foray, and Tagamoio repeats that he went to punish
+the friends made by Manilla, who, being a slave, had no right to make
+war and burn villages, that could only be done by free men. Manilla
+confesses to me privately that he did wrong in that, and loses all his
+beads and many friends in consequence.
+
+2 P.M.--An old man, called Kabobo, came for his old wife; I asked her if
+this were her husband, she went to him, and put her arm lovingly around
+him, and said "Yes." I gave her five strings of beads to buy food, all
+her stores being destroyed with her house; she bowed down, and put her
+forehead to the ground as thanks, and old Kabobo did the same: the tears
+stood in her eyes as she went off. Tagamoio caught 17 women, and other
+Arabs of his party, 27; dead by gunshot, 25. The heads of two headmen
+were brought over to be redeemed by their friends with slaves.
+
+3 P.M.--Many of the headmen who have been burned out by the foray came
+over to me, and begged me to come back with them, and appoint new
+localities for them to settle in again, but I told them that I was so
+ashamed of the company in which I found myself, that I could scarcely
+look the Manyuema in the face. They had believed that I wished to kill
+them--what did they think now? I could not remain among bloody
+companions, and would flee away, I said, but they begged me hard not to
+leave until they were again settled.
+
+The open murder perpetrated on hundreds of unsuspecting women fills me
+with unspeakable horror: I cannot think of going anywhere with the
+Tagamoio crew; I must either go down or up Lualaba, whichever the Banian
+slaves choose.
+
+4 P.M.--Dugumbé saw that by killing the market people he had committed a
+great error, and speedily got the chiefs who had come over to me to meet
+him at his house, and forthwith mix blood: they were in bad case. I
+could not remain to see to their protection, and Dugumbé, being the best
+of the whole horde, I advised them to make friends, and then appeal to
+him as able to restrain to some extent his infamous underlings. One
+chief asked to have his wife and daughter restored to him first, but
+generally they were cowed, and the fear of death was on them. Dugumbé
+said to me, "I shall do my utmost to get all the captives, but he must
+make friends now, in order that the market may not be given up." Blood
+was mixed, and an essential condition was, "You must give us chitoka,"
+or market. He and most others saw that in theoretically punishing
+Manilla, they had slaughtered the very best friends that strangers had.
+The Banian slaves openly declare that they will go only to Lomamé, and
+no further. Whatever the Ujijian slavers may pretend, they all hate to
+have me as a witness of their cold-blooded atrocities. The Banian slaves
+would like to go with Tagamoio, and share in his rapine and get slaves.
+I tried to go down Lualaba, then up it, and west, but with bloodhounds
+it is out of the question. I see nothing for it but to go back to Ujiji
+for other men, though it will throw me out of the chance of discovering
+the fourth great Lake in the Lualaba line of drainage, and other things
+of great value.
+
+At last I said that I would start for Ujiji, in three days, on foot. I
+wished to speak to Tagamoio about the captive relations of the chiefs,
+but he always ran away when he saw me coming.
+
+_17th July, 1871._--All the rest of Dugumbé's party offered me a share
+of every kind of goods they had, and pressed me not to be ashamed to
+tell them what I needed. I declined everything save a little gunpowder,
+but they all made presents of beads, and I was glad to return
+equivalents in cloth. It is a sore affliction, at least forty-five days
+in a straight line--equal to 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings
+600 English miles, and all after feeding and clothing the Banian slaves
+for twenty-one months! But it is for the best though; if I do not trust
+to the riffraff of Ujiji, I must wait for other men at least ten months
+there. With help from above I shall yet go through Rua, see the
+underground excavations first, then on to Katanga, and the four ancient
+fountains eight days beyond, and after that Lake Lincoln.
+
+_18th July, 1871._--The murderous assault on the market people felt
+to me like Gehenna, without the fire and brimstone; but the heat was
+oppressive, and the firearms pouring their iron bullets on the
+fugitives, was not an inapt representative of burning in the bottomless
+pit.
+
+The terrible scenes of man's inhumanity to man brought on severe
+headache, which might have been serious had it not been relieved by a
+copious discharge of blood; I was laid up all yesterday afternoon, with
+the depression the bloodshed made,--it filled me with unspeakable
+horror. "Don't go away," say the Manyuema chiefs to me; but I cannot
+stay here in agony.
+
+_19th July, 1871._--Dugumbé sent me a fine goat, a maneh of gunpowder, a
+maneh of fine blue beads, and 230 cowries, to buy provisions in the way.
+I proposed to leave a doti Merikano and one of Kaniké to buy specimens
+of workmanship. He sent me two very fine large Manyuema swords, and two
+equally fine spears, and said that I must not leave anything; he would
+buy others with his own goods, and divide them equally with me: he is
+very friendly.
+
+River fallen 4-1/2 feet since the 5th ult.
+
+A few market people appear to-day, formerly they came in crowds: a very
+few from the west bank bring salt to buy back the baskets from the camp
+slaves, which they threw away in panic, others carried a little food for
+sale, about 200 in all, chiefly those who have not lost relatives: one
+very beautiful woman had a gunshot wound in her upper arm tied round
+with leaves. Seven canoes came instead of fifty; but they have great
+tenacity and hopefulness, an old established custom has great charms for
+them, and the market will again be attended if no fresh outrage is
+committed. No canoes now come into the creek of death, but land above,
+at Ntambwé's village: this creek, at the bottom of the long gentle slope
+on which the market was held, probably led to its selection.
+
+A young Manyuema man worked for one of Dugumbé's people preparing a
+space to build on; when tired, he refused to commence to dig a pit, and
+was struck on the loins with an axe, and soon died: he was drawn out of
+the way, and his relations came, wailed over him, and buried him: they
+are too much awed to complain to Dugumbé!!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusizé. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyembé with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of
+    game.--Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley.
+    Thankfulness at reaching Unyatiyembé.
+
+
+_20th July, 1871._--I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbé's people came to
+say good bye, and convoy me a little way. I made a short march, for
+being long inactive it is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it
+is then difficult to get over the effects.
+
+_21st July, 1871._--One of the slaves was sick, and the rest falsely
+reported him to be seriously ill, to give them time to negotiate for
+women with whom they had cohabited: Dugumbé saw through the fraud, and
+said "Leave him to me: if he lives, I will feed him; if he dies, we
+will bury him: do not delay for any one, but travel in a compact body,
+as stragglers now are sure to be cut off." He lost a woman of his party,
+who lagged behind, and seven others were killed besides, and the forest
+hid the murderers. I was only too anxious to get away quickly, and on
+the 22nd started off at daylight, and went about six miles to the
+village of Mañkwara, where I spent the night when coming this way. The
+chief Mokandira convoyed us hither: I promised him a cloth if I came
+across from Lomamé. He wonders much at the underground houses, and never
+heard of them till I told him about them. Many of the gullies which were
+running fast when we came were now dry. Thunder began, and a few drops
+of rain fell.
+
+_23rd-24th July, 1871._--We crossed the River Kunda, of fifty yards, in
+two canoes, and then ascended from the valley of denudation, in which it
+flows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds followed, all anxious to carry loads
+for a few beads. Several market people came to salute, who knew that we
+had no hand in the massacre, as we are a different people from the
+Arabs. In going and coming they must have a march of 25 miles with loads
+so heavy no slave would carry them. They speak of us as "good:" the
+anthropologists think that to be spoken of as wicked is better. Ezekiel
+says that the Most High put His comeliness upon Jerusalem: if He does
+not impart of His goodness to me I shall never be good: if He does not
+put of His comeliness on me I shall never be comely in soul, but be like
+these Arabs in whom Satan has full sway--the god of this world having
+blinded their eyes.
+
+_25th July, 1871._--We came over a beautiful country yesterday, a vast
+hollow of denudation, with much cultivation, intersected by a ridge some
+300 feet high, on which the villages are built: this is Lobango. The
+path runs along the top of the ridge, and we see the fine country below
+all spread out with different shades of green, as on a map. The colours
+show the shapes of the different plantations in the great hollow drained
+by the Kunda. After crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, which flows into
+the Kunda, and it into Lualaba, we rose on to another intersecting
+ridge, having a great many villages burned by Matereka or Salem
+Mokadam's people, since we passed them in our course N.W. They had
+slept on the ridge after we saw them, and next morning, in sheer
+wantonness, fired their lodgings,--their slaves had evidently carried
+the fire along from their lodgings, and set fire to houses of villages
+in their route as a sort of horrid Moslem Nigger joke; it was done only
+because they could do it without danger of punishment: it was such fun
+to make the Mashensé, as they call all natives, houseless. Men are worse
+than beasts of prey, if indeed it is lawful to call Zanzibar slaves men.
+It is monstrous injustice to compare free Africans living under their
+own chiefs and laws, and cultivating their own free lands, with what
+slaves afterwards become at Zanzibar and elsewhere.
+
+_26th July, 1871._--Came up out of the last valley of denudation--that
+drained by Kahembai, and then along a level land with open forest. Four
+men passed us in hot haste to announce the death of a woman at their
+village to her relations living at another. I heard of several deaths
+lately of dysentery. Pleurisy is common from cold winds from N.W.
+Twenty-two men with large square black shields, capable of completely
+hiding the whole person, came next in a trot to receive the body of
+their relative and all her gear to carry her to her own home for burial:
+about twenty women followed them, and the men waited under the trees
+till they should have wound the body up and wept over her. They smeared
+their bodies with clay, and their faces with soot. Reached our friend
+Kama.
+
+_27th July, 1871._--Left Kama's group of villages and went through many
+others before we reached Kasongo's, and were welcomed by all the Arabs
+of the camp at this place. Bought two milk goats reasonably, and rest
+over Sunday. (_28th and 29th_). They asked permission to send a party
+with me for goods to Ujiji; this will increase our numbers, and perhaps
+safety too, among the justly irritated people between this and Bambarré.
+All are enjoined to help me, and of course I must do the same to them.
+It is colder here than at Nyañgwé. Kasongo is off guiding an ivory or
+slaving party, and doing what business he can on his own account; he has
+four guns, and will be the first to maraud on his own account.
+
+_30th July, 1871._--They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seventeen
+Manyuema volunteers to carry thither and back: these are the very first
+who in modern times have ventured fifty miles from the place of their
+birth. I came only three miles to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoyé,
+and slept at village on a hill beyond it.
+
+_31st July, 1871._--Passed through the defile between Mount Kimazi and
+Mount Kijila. Below the cave with stalactite pillar in its door a fine
+echo answers those who feel inclined to shout to it. Come to Mangala's
+numerous villages, and two slaves being ill, rest on Wednesday.
+
+_1st August, 1871._--A large market assembles close to us.
+
+_2nd August, 1871._--Left Mangala's, and came through a great many
+villages all deserted on our approach on account of the vengeance taken
+by Dugumbé's party for the murder of some of their people. Kasongo's men
+appeared eager to plunder their own countrymen: I had to scold and
+threaten them, and set men to watch their deeds. Plantains are here very
+abundant, good, and cheap. Came to Kittetté, and lodge in a village of
+Loembo. About thirty foundries were passed; they are very high in the
+roof, and thatched with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sand
+would. Rain runs off equally well.
+
+_3rd August, 1871._--Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon ivory we
+wait a day, Kasongo came up and filled their places.
+
+I have often observed effigies of men made of wood in Manyuema; some of
+clay are simply cones with a small hole in the top; on asking about them
+here, I for the first time obtained reliable information. They are
+called Bathata--fathers or ancients--and the name of each is carefully
+preserved. Those here at Kittetté were evidently the names of chiefs,
+Molenda being the most ancient, whilst Mbayo Yamba, Kamoanga, Kitambwé,
+Noñgo, Aulumba, Yengé Yengé, Simba Mayañga, Loembwé, are more recently
+dead. They were careful to have the exact pronunciation of the names.
+The old men told me that on certain occasions they offer goat's flesh to
+them: men eat it, and allow no young person or women to partake. The
+flesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old men. They say that if
+eaten by young men their children will have the waddling gait of the
+bird. They say that originally those who preceded Molenda came from
+Kongolakokwa, which conveys no idea to my mind. It was interesting to
+get even this little bit of history here. (Nkoñgolo = Deity; Nkoñgolokwa
+as the Deity.)
+
+_4th August, 1871._--Came through miles of villages all burned because
+the people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings! The men had begun to
+re-thatch the huts, and kept out of our way, but a goat was speared by
+some one in hiding, and we knew danger was near. Abdullah admitted that
+he had no other reason for burning them than the unwillingness of the
+people to lodge him and his slaves without payment, with the certainty
+of getting their food stolen and utensils destroyed.
+
+_5th and 6th August, 1871._--Through many miles of palm-trees and
+plantains to a Boma or stockaded village, where we slept, though the
+people were evidently suspicious and unfriendly.
+
+_7th August, 1871._--To a village, ill and almost every step in pain.
+The people all ran away, and appeared in the distance armed, and refused
+to come near--then came and threw stones at us, and afterwards tried to
+kill those who went for water. We sleep uncomfortably, the natives
+watching us all round. Sent men to see if the way was clear.
+
+_8th August, 1871._--They would come to no parley. They knew their
+advantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from Bin Juma and Mohamad's
+men when they threw down the ivory in the forest. In passing along the
+narrow path with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand, we came
+to a point where an ambush had been placed, and trees cut down to
+obstruct us while they speared us; but for some reason it was abandoned.
+Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down to the earth and peering
+up towards the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen: this was an
+infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation meant a
+spear. A large spear from my right lunged past and almost grazed my
+back, and stuck firmly into the soil. The two men from whom it came
+appeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards off and bolted, one
+looking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they are expert with the
+spear I don't know how it missed, except that he was too sure of his aim
+and the good hand of God was upon me.
+
+I was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass till I, the
+leader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib, or Kolokolo himself,
+came up to the point where they lay. A red jacket they had formerly seen
+me wearing was proof to them, that I was the same that sent Bin Juma to
+kill five of their men, capture eleven women and children, and
+twenty-five goats. Another spear was thrown at me by an unseen
+assailant, and it missed me by about a foot in front. Guns were fired
+into the dense mass of forest, but with no effect, for nothing could be
+seen; but we heard the men jeering and denouncing us close by: two of
+our party were slain.
+
+Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation I noticed a
+gigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an ant-hill 20 feet high;
+it had fire applied near its roots, I heard a crack which told that the
+fire had done its work, but felt no alarm till I saw it come straight
+towards me: I ran a few paces back, and down it came to the ground one
+yard behind me, and breaking into several lengths, it covered me with a
+cloud of dust. Had the branches not previously been rotted off, I could
+scarcely have escaped.
+
+Three times in one day was I delivered from impending death.
+
+My attendants, who were scattered in all directions, came running back
+to me, calling out, "Peace! peace! you will finish all your work in
+spite of these people, and in spite of everything." Like them, I took it
+as an omen of good success to crown me yet, thanks to the "Almighty
+Preserver of men."
+
+We had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by spearmen, who all
+felt that if they killed me they would be revenging the death of
+relations. From each hole in the tangled mass we looked for a spear; and
+each moment expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weapons
+hurled at us. I became weary with the constant strain of danger,
+and--as, I suppose, happens with soldiers on the field of battle--not
+courageous, but perfectly indifferent whether I were killed or not.
+
+When at last we got out of the forest and crossed the Liya on to the
+cleared lands near the villages of Monan-bundwa, we lay down to rest,
+and soon saw Muanampunda coming, walking up in a stately manner unarmed
+to meet us. He had heard the vain firing of my men into the bush, and
+came to ask what was the matter. I explained the mistake that Munangonga
+had made in supposing that I was Kolokolo, the deeds of whose men he
+knew, and then we went on to his village together.
+
+In the evening he sent to say that if I would give him all my people who
+had guns, he would call his people together, burn off all the vegetation
+they could fire, and punish our enemies, bringing me ten goats instead
+of the three milch goats I had lost. I again explained that the attack
+was made by a mistake in thinking I was Mohamad Bogharib, and that I had
+no wish to kill men: to join in his old feud would only make matters
+worse. This he could perfectly understand.
+
+I lost all my remaining calico, a telescope, umbrella, and five spears,
+by one of the slaves throwing down the load and taking up his own bundle
+of country cloth.
+
+_9th August, 1871._--Went on towards Mamohela, now deserted by the
+Arabs. Monanponda convoyed me a long way, and at one spot, with grass
+all trodden down, he said, "Here we killed a man of Moezia and ate his
+body." The meat cut up had been seen by Dugumbé.
+
+_10th August, 1871._--In connection with this affair the party that came
+through from Mamalulu found that a great fight had taken place at
+Muanampunda's, and they saw the meat cut up to be cooked with bananas.
+They did not like the strangers to look at their meat, but said, "Go on,
+and let our feast alone," they did not want to be sneered at. The same
+Muanampunda or Monambonda told me frankly that they ate the man of
+Moezia: they seem to eat their foes to inspire courage, or in revenge.
+One point is very remarkable; it is not want that has led to the custom,
+for the country is full of food: nobody is starved of farinaceous food;
+they have maize, dura, pennisetum, cassava and sweet potatoes, and for
+fatty ingredients of diet, the palm-oil, ground-nuts, sessamum, and a
+tree whose fruit yields a fine sweet oil: the saccharine materials
+needed are found in the sugar-cane, bananas, and plantains.
+
+Goats, sheep, fowls, dogs, pigs, abound in the villages, whilst the
+forest affords elephants, zebras, buffaloes, antelopes, and in the
+streams there are many varieties of fish. The nitrogenous ingredients
+are abundant, and they have dainties in palm-toddy, and tobacco or
+Bangé: the soil is so fruitful that mere scraping off the weeds is as
+good as ploughing, so that the reason for cannibalism does not lie in
+starvation or in want of animal matter, as was said to be the case with
+the New Zealanders. The only feasible reason I can discover is a
+depraved appetite, giving an extraordinary craving for meat which we
+call "high." They are said to bury a dead body for a couple of days in
+the soil in a forest, and in that time, owing to the climate, it soon
+becomes putrid enough for the strongest stomachs.
+
+The Lualaba has many oysters in it with very thick shells. They are
+called _Makessi_, and at certain seasons are dived for by the Bagenya
+women: pearls are said to be found in them, but boring to string them
+has never been thought of. _Kanone_, Ibis religiosa. _Uruko_, Kuss name
+of coffee.
+
+The Manyuema are so afraid of guns, that a man borrows one to settle any
+dispute or claim: he goes with it over his shoulder, and quickly
+arranges the matter by the pressure it brings, though they all know that
+he could not use it.
+
+_Gulu_, Deity above, or heaven. _Mamvu_, earth or below. _Gulu_ is a
+person, and men, on death, go to him. _Nkoba,_ lightning. _Nkongolo_,
+Deity (?). _Kula_ or _Nkula_, salt spring west of Nyangwé. _Kalunda_,
+ditto. _Kiria_, rapid down river. _Kirila_, islet in sight of Nyangwé.
+_Magoya_, ditto.
+
+_Note_.--The chief Zurampela is about N.W. of Nyangwé, and three days
+off. The Luivé River, of very red water, is crossed, and the larger
+Mabila River receives it into its very dark water before Mabila enters
+Lualaba.
+
+A ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, as calculi are, is a
+great charm among the Arabs: it scares away other animals, they say.
+
+Lion's fat smeared on the tails of oxen taken through a country
+abounding in tsetse, or bungo, is a sure preventive; when I heard of
+this, I thought that lion's fat would be as difficult of collection as
+gnat's brains or mosquito tongues, but I was assured that many lions
+are killed on the Basango highland, and they, in common with all beasts
+there, are extremely fat: so it is not at all difficult to buy a
+calabash of the preventive, and Banyamwezi, desirous of taking cattle to
+the coast for sale, know the substance, and use it successfully (?).
+
+_11th August, 1871._--Came on by a long march of six hours across plains
+of grass and watercourses, lined with beautiful trees, to Kassessa's,
+the chief of Mamohela, who has helped the Arabs to scourge several of
+his countrymen for old feuds: he gave them goats, and then guided them
+by night to the villages, where they got more goats and many captives,
+each to be redeemed with ten goats more. During the last foray, however,
+the people learned that every shot does not kill, and they came up to
+the party with bows and arrows, and compelled the slaves to throw down
+their guns and powder-horns. They would have shown no mercy had Manyuema
+been thus in slave power; but this is a beginning of the end, which will
+exclude Arab traders from the country. I rested half a day, as I am
+still ill. I do most devoutly thank the Lord for sparing my life three
+times in one day. The Lord is good, a stronghold in the day of trouble,
+and He knows them that trust in Him.
+
+[The brevity of the following notes is fully accounted for: Livingstone
+was evidently suffering too severely to write more.]
+
+_12th August, 1871._--Mamohela camp all burned off. We sleep at Mamohela
+village.
+
+_13th August, 1871._--At a village on the bank of River Lolindi, I am
+suffering greatly. A man brought a young, nearly full-fledged, kite from
+a nest on a tree: this is the first case of their breeding, that I am
+sure of, in this country: they are migratory into these intertropical
+lands from the south, probably.
+
+_14th August, 1871._--Across many brisk burns to a village on the side
+of a mountain range. First rains 12th and 14th, gentle; but near Luamo,
+it ran on the paths, and caused dew.
+
+_15th August, 1871._--To Muanambonyo's. Golungo, a bush buck, with
+stripes across body, and two rows of spots along the sides (?)
+
+_16th August, 1871._--To Luamo River. Very ill with bowels.
+
+_17th August, 1871._--Cross river, and sent a message to my friend.
+Katomba sent a bountiful supply of food back.
+
+_18th August, 1871._--Reached Katomba, at Moenemgoi's, and was welcomed
+by all the heavily-laden Arab traders. They carry their trade spoil in
+three relays. Kenyengeré attacked before I came, and 150 captives were
+taken and about 100 slain; this is an old feud of Moenemgoi, which the
+Arabs took up for their own gain. No news whatever from Ujiji, and M.
+Bogharib is still at Bambarré, with all my letters.
+
+_19th-20th August, 1871._--Rest from weakness. (_21st August, 1871._) Up
+to the palms on the west of Mount Kanyima Pass. (_22nd August, 1871._)
+Bambarré. (_28th August, 1871._) Better and thankful. Katomba's party
+has nearly a thousand frasilahs of ivory, and Mohamad's has 300
+frasilahs.
+
+_29th August, 1871._--Ill all night, and remain. (_30th August, 1871._)
+Ditto, ditto; but go on to Monandenda's on River Lombonda.
+
+_31st August, 1871._--Up and half over the mountain range, (_1st
+September, 1871_) and sleep in dense forest, with several fine running
+streams.
+
+_2nd September, 1871._--Over the range, and down on to a marble-capped
+hill, with a village on top.
+
+_3rd September, 1871._--Equinoctial gales. On to Lohombo.
+
+_5th September, 1871._--To Kasangangazi's. (_6th September, 1871._)
+Rest. (_7th September, 1871._) Mamba's. Rest on 8th. (_9th September,
+1871._) Ditto ditto. People falsely accused of stealing; but I disproved
+it to the confusion of the Arabs, who wish to be able to say, "the
+people of the English steal too." A very rough road from Kasangangazi's
+hither, and several running rivulets crossed.
+
+_10th September, 1871._--Manyuema boy followed us, but I insisted on his
+father's consent, which was freely given: marching proved too hard for
+him, however, and in a few days he left.
+
+Down into the valley of the Kapemba through beautiful undulating
+country, and came to village of Amru: this is a common name, and is used
+as "man," or "comrade," or "mate."
+
+_11th September, 1871._--Up a very steep high mountain range, Moloni or
+Mononi, and down to a village at the bottom on the other side, of a man
+called Molembu.
+
+_12th September, 1871._--Two men sick. Wait, though I am now
+comparatively sound and well. Dura flour, which we can now procure,
+helps to strengthen me: it is nearest to wheaten flour; maize meal is
+called "cold," and not so wholesome as the _Holeus sorghum_ or dura. A
+lengthy march through a level country, with high mountain ranges on each
+hand; along that on the left our first path lay, and it was very
+fatiguing. We came to the Rivulet Kalangai. I had hinted to Mohamad that
+if he harboured my deserters, it might go hard with him; and he came
+after me for two marches, and begged me not to think that he did
+encourage them. They came impudently into the village, and I had to
+drive them out: I suspected that he had sent them. I explained, and he
+gave me a goat, which I sent back for.
+
+_13th September, 1871._--This march back completely used up the Manyuema
+boy: he could not speak, or tell what he wanted cooked, when he arrived.
+I did not see him go back, and felt sorry for the poor boy, who left us
+by night. People here would sell nothing, so I was glad of the goat.
+
+_14th September, 1871._--To Pyanamosindé's. _(15th September, 1871.)_ To
+Karungamagao's; very fine undulating green country. _(16th and 17th
+September, 1871.)_ Rest, as we could get food to buy.
+
+_(18th September, 1871.)_ To a stockaded village, where the people
+ordered us to leave. We complied, and went out half a mile and built
+our sheds in the forest: I like sheds in the forest much better than
+huts in the villages, for we have no mice or vermin, and incur no
+obligation.
+
+_19th September, 1871._--Found that Barua are destroying all the
+Manyuema villages not stockaded.
+
+_20th September, 1871._--We came to Kunda's on the River Katemba,
+through great plantations of cassava, and then to a woman chief's, and
+now regularly built our own huts apart from the villages, near the hot
+fountain called Kabila which is about blood-heat, and flows across the
+path. Crossing this we came to Mokwaniwa's, on the River Gombezé, and
+met a caravan, under Nassur Masudi, of 200 guns. He presented a fine
+sheep, and reported that Seyed Majid was dead--he had been ailing and
+fell from some part of his new house at Darsalam, and in three days
+afterwards expired. He was a true and warm friend to me and did all he
+could to aid me with his subjects, giving me two Sultan's letters for
+the purpose. Seyed Burghash succeeds him; this change causes anxiety.
+Will Seyed Burghash's goodness endure now that he has the Sultanate?
+Small-pox raged lately at Ujiji.
+
+_22nd September, 1871._--Caravan goes northwards, and we rest, and eat
+the sheep kindly presented.
+
+_23rd September, 1871._--We now passed through the country of mixed
+Barua and Baguha, crossed the River Loñgumba twice and then came near
+the great mountain mass on west of Tanganyika. From Mokwaniwa's to
+Tanganyika is about ten good marches through open forest. The Guha
+people are not very friendly; they know strangers too well to show
+kindness: like Manyuema, they are also keen traders. I was sorely
+knocked up by this march from Nyañgwé back to Ujiji. In the latter part
+of it, I felt as if dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain, the
+appetite failed, and a little bit of meat caused violent diarrhoea,
+whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the body. All the traders
+were returning successful: I alone had failed and experienced worry,
+thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of the end towards which I
+strained.
+
+_3rd October, 1871._--I read the whole Bible through four times whilst I
+was in Manyuema.
+
+_8th October, 1871._--The road covered with angular fragments of quartz
+was very sore to my feet, which are crammed into ill-made French shoes.
+How the bare feet of the men and women stood out, I don't know; it was
+hard enough on mine though protected by the shoes. We marched in the
+afternoons where water at this season was scarce. The dust of the march
+caused ophthalmia, like that which afflicted Speke: this was my first
+touch of it in Africa. We now came to the Lobumba River, which flows
+into Tanganyika, and then to the village Loanda and sent to Kasanga, the
+Guha chief, for canoes. The Loñgumba rises, like the Lobumba, in the
+mountains called Kabogo West. We heard great noises, as if thunder, as
+far as twelve days off, which were ascribed to Kabogo, as if it had
+subterranean caves into which the waves rushed with great noise, and it
+may be that the Loñgumba is the outlet of Tanganyika: it becomes the
+Luassé further down, and then the Luamo before it joins the Lualaba: the
+country slopes that way, but I was too ill to examine its source.
+
+_9th October, 1871._--On to islet Kasengé. After much delay got a good
+canoe for three dotis, and on _15th October, 1871_ went to the islet
+Kabiziwa.
+
+_18th October, 1871._--Start for Kabogo East, and _19th_ reach it 8 A.M.
+
+_20th October, 1871._--Rest men.
+
+_22nd October, 1871._--To Rombola.
+
+_23rd October, 1871._--At dawn, off and go to Ujiji. Welcomed by all the
+Arabs, particularly by Moenyegheré. I was now reduced to a skeleton,
+but the market being held daily, and all kinds of native food brought to
+it, I hoped that food and rest would soon restore me, but in the evening
+my people came and told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods, and
+Moenyegheré confirmed it by saying, "We protested, but he did not leave
+a single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a string of beads out of 700
+lbs." This was distressing. I had made up my mind, if I could not get
+people at Ujiji, to wait till men should come from the coast, but to
+wait in beggary was what I never contemplated, and I now felt miserable.
+Shereef was evidently a moral idiot, for he came without shame to shake
+hands with me, and when I refused, assumed an air of displeasure, as
+having been badly treated; and afterwards came with his "Balghere,"
+good-luck salutation, twice a day, and on leaving said, "I am going to
+pray," till I told him that were I an Arab, his hand and both ears would
+be cut off for thieving, as he knew, and I wanted no salutations from
+him. In my distress it was annoying to see Shereef's slaves passing from
+the market with all the good things that my goods had bought.
+
+_24th October, 1871._--My property had been sold to Shereef's friends at
+merely nominal prices. Syed bin Majid, a good man, proposed that they
+should be returned, and the ivory be taken from Shereef; but they would
+not restore stolen property, though they knew it to be stolen.
+Christians would have acted differently, even those of the lowest
+classes. I felt in my destitution as if I were the man who went down
+from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves; but I could not hope
+for Priest, Levite, or good Samaritan to come by on either side, but one
+morning Syed bin Majid said to me, "Now this is the first time we have
+been alone together; I have no goods, but I have ivory; let me, I pray
+you, sell some ivory, and give the goods to you." This was encouraging;
+but I said, "Not yet, but by-and-bye." I had still a few barter goods
+left, which I had taken the precaution to deposit with Mohamad bin Saleh
+before going to Manyuema, in case of returning in extreme need. But when
+my spirits were at their lowest ebb, the good Samaritan was close at
+hand, for one morning Susi came running at the top of his speed and
+gasped out, "An Englishman! I see him!" and off he darted to meet him.
+The American flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality of
+the stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge kettles, cooking pots,
+tents, &c, made me think "This must be a luxurious traveller, and not
+one at his wits' end like me." _(28th October, 1871.)_ It was Henry
+Moreland Stanley, the travelling correspondent of the _New York Herald,_
+sent by James Gordon Bennett, junior, at an expense of more than
+4000_l._, to obtain accurate information about Dr. Livingstone if
+living, and if dead to bring home my bones. The news he had to tell to
+one who had been two full years without any tidings from Europe made my
+whole frame thrill. The terrible fate that had befallen France, the
+telegraphic cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election of
+General Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon--my constant friend, the
+proof that Her Majesty's Government had not forgotten me in voting
+1000_l_. for supplies, and many other points of interest, revived
+emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema. Appetite returned, and
+instead of the spare, tasteless, two meals a day, I ate four times
+daily, and in a week began to feel strong. I am not of a demonstrative
+turn; as cold, indeed, as we islanders are usually reputed to be, but
+this disinterested kindness of Mr. Bennett, so nobly carried into effect
+by Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming. I really do feel extremely
+grateful, and at the same time I am a little ashamed at not being more
+worthy of the generosity. Mr. Stanley has done his part with untiring
+energy; good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. His
+helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who, by their excesses at
+Zanzibar and elsewhere, had ruined their constitutions, and prepared
+their systems to be fit provender for the grave. They had used up their
+strength by wickedness, and were of next to no service, but rather
+downdrafts and unbearable drags to progress.
+
+_16th November, 1871._--As Tanganyika explorations are said by Mr.
+Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, we go at his
+expense and by his men to the north of the Lake.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone on a previous occasion wrote from the interior of
+Africa to the effect that Lake Tanganyika poured its waters into the
+Albert Nyanza Lake of Baker. At the time perhaps he hardly realized the
+interest that such an announcement was likely to occasion. He was now
+shown the importance of ascertaining by actual observation whether the
+junction really existed, and for this purpose he started with Mr.
+Stanley to explore the region of the supposed connecting link in the
+North, so as to verify the statements of the Arabs.]
+
+_16th November, 1871._--Four hours to Chigoma.
+
+_20th and 21st November, 1871._--Passed a very crowded population, the
+men calling to us to land to be fleeced and insulted by way of Mahonga
+or Mutuari: they threw stones in rage, and one, apparently slung,
+lighted close to the canoe. We came on until after dark, and landed
+under a cliff to rest and cook, but a crowd came and made inquiries,
+then a few more came as if to investigate more perfectly: they told us
+to sleep, and to-morrow friendship should be made. We put our luggage on
+board and set a watch on the cliff. A number of men came along, cowering
+behind rocks, which then aroused suspicion, and we slipped off quietly;
+they called after us, as men baulked of their prey. We went on five
+hours and slept, and then this morning came on to Magala, where the
+people are civil, but Mukamba had war with some one. The Lake narrows to
+about ten miles, as the western mountains come towards the eastern
+range, that being about N.N.W. magnetic. Many stumps of trees killed by
+water show an encroachment by the Lake on the east side. A transverse
+range seems to shut in the north end, but there is open country to the
+east and west of its ends.
+
+_24th November, 1871._--To Point Kizuka in Mukamba's country. A
+Molongwana came to us from Mukamba and asserted most positively that all
+the water of Tanganyika flowed into the River Lusizé, and then on to
+Ukerewé of Mtéza; nothing could be more clear than his statements.
+
+_25th November, 1871._--We came on about two hours to some villages on a
+high bank where Mukamba is living. The chief, a young good-looking man
+like Mugala, came and welcomed us. Our friend of yesterday now declared
+as positively as before that the water of Lusizé flowed into Tanganyika,
+and not the way he said yesterday! I have not the smallest doubt but
+Tanganyika discharges somewhere, though we may be unable to find it.
+Lusizé goes to or comes from Luanda and Karagwé. This is hopeful, but I
+suspend my judgment. War rages between Mukamba and Wasmashanga or
+Uasmasané, a chief between this and Lusizé: ten men were killed of
+Mukamba's people a few days ago. Vast numbers of fishermen ply their
+calling night and day as far as we can see. Tanganyika closes in except
+at one point N. and by W. of us. The highest point of the western range,
+about 7000 feet above the sea, is Sumburuza. We are to go to-morrow to
+Luhinga, elder brother of Mukamba, near Lusizé, and the chief follows us
+next day.
+
+_26th November, 1871._--Sunday. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. I gave
+Mukamba 9 dotis and 9 fundos. The end of Tanganyika seen clearly is
+rounded off about 4' broad from east to west.
+
+_27th November, 1871._--Mr. Stanley is better. We started at sunset
+westwards, then northwards for seven hours, and at 4 A.M. reached
+Lohinga, at the mouth of the Lusizé.
+
+_28th November, 1871._--Shot an _Ibis religiosa._ In the afternoon
+Luhinga, the superior of Mukambé, came and showed himself very
+intelligent. He named eighteen rivers, four of which enter Tanganyika,
+and the rest Lusizé: all come into, none leave Tanganyika.[15] Lusizé is
+said to rise in Kwangeregéré in the Kivo lagoon, between Mutumbé and
+Luanda. Nyabungu is chief of Mutumbé. Luhinga is the most intelligent
+and the frankest chief we have seen here.
+
+_29th November, 1871._--We go to see the Lusizé Eiver in a canoe. The
+mouth is filled with large reedy sedgy islets: there are three branches,
+about twelve to fifteen yards broad, and one fathom deep, with a strong
+current of 2' per hour: water discoloured. The outlet of the Lake is
+probably by the Loñgumba River into Lualaba as the Luamo, but this as
+yet must be set down as a "theoretical discovery."
+
+_30th November, 1871._--A large present of eggs, flour, and a sheep came
+from Mukamba. Mr. Stanley went round to a bay in the west, to which the
+mountains come sheer down.
+
+_1st December, 1871, Friday._--Latitude last night 3° 18' 3" S. I gave
+fifteen cloths to Lohinga, which pleased him highly. Kuansibura is the
+chief who lives near Kivo, the lagoon from which the Lusizé rises: they
+say it flows under a rock.
+
+_2nd December, 1871._--Ill from bilious attack.
+
+_3rd December, 1871._--Better and thankful. Men went off to bring
+Mukamba, whose wife brought us a handsome present of milk, beer, and
+cassava. She is a good-looking young woman, of light colour and full
+lips, with two children of eight or ten years of age. We gave them
+cloths, and sheasked beads, so we made them a present of two fundos. By
+lunars I was one day wrong to-day.
+
+_4th December, 1871._--Very heavy rain from north all night. Baker's
+Lake cannot be as near as he puts it in his map, for it is unknown to
+Lohingé. He thinks that he is a hundred years old, but he is really
+about forty-five! Namataranga is the name of birds which float high in
+air in large flocks.
+
+_5th December, 1871._--We go over to a point on our east. The bay is
+about 12' broad: the mountains here are very beautiful. We visited the
+chief Mukamba, at his village five miles north of Lohinga's; he wanted
+us to remain a few days, but I declined. We saw two flocks of _Ibis
+religiosa,_ numbering in all fifty birds, feeding like geese.
+
+_6th December, 1871._--Remain at Luhinga's.
+
+_7th December, 1871._--Start and go S.W. to Lohanga: passed the point
+where Speke turned, then breakfasted at the marketplace.
+
+_8th December, 1871._--Go on to Mukamba; near the boundary of Babembé
+and Bavira. We pulled six hours to a rocky islet, with two rocks covered
+with trees on its western side. The Babembé are said to be dangerous, on
+account of having been slaughtered by the Malongwana. The Lat. of these
+islands is 3° 41' S.
+
+_9th December, 1871._--Leave New York Herald Islet and go S. to Lubumba
+Cape. The people now are the Basansas along the coast. Some men here
+were drunk and troublesome: we gave them a present and left them about
+4-1/2 in afternoon and went to an islet at the north end in about three
+hours, good pulling, and afterwards in eight hours to the eastern shore;
+this makes the Lake, say, 28 or 30 miles broad. We coasted along to
+Mokungos and rested.
+
+_10th December, 1871._--Kisessa is chief of all the islet Mozima. His
+son was maltreated at Ujiji and died in consequence; this stopped the
+dura trade, and we were not assaulted because not Malongwana.
+
+_11th December, 1871._--Leave Mokungo at 6 A.M. and coast along 6-1/2
+hours to Sazzi.
+
+_12th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley ill with fever. Off, and after three
+hours, stop at Masambo village.
+
+_13th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley better. Go on to Ujiji. Mr. Stanley
+received a letter from Consul Webb (American) of 11th June last, and
+telegrams from Aden up to 29th April.
+
+_14th December, 1871._--Many people off to fight Mirambo at Unyanyembé:
+their wives promenade and weave green leaves for victory.
+
+_15th December, 1871._--At Ujiji. Getting ready to march east for my
+goods.
+
+_16th December, 1871._--Engage paddlers to Tongwé and a guide.
+
+_17th December, 1871._--S. _18th._--Writing. _19th-20th._--Still
+writing despatches. Packed up the large tin box with Manyuema swords and
+spear heads, for transmission home by Mr. Stanley. Two chronometers and two
+watches--anklets of Nzigé and of Manyuema. Leave with Mohamad bin Saleh
+a box with books, shirts, paper, &c.; also large and small beads, tea,
+coffee and sugar.
+
+_21st December, 1871._--Heavy rains for planting now.
+
+_22nd December, 1871._--Stanley ill of fever.
+
+_23rd December, 1871._--Do. very ill. Rainy and uncomfortable.
+
+_24th December, 1871._--S. _25th.--Christmas_. I leave here one bag of
+beads in a skin, 2 bags of Sungo mazi 746 and 756 blue. Gardner's bag of
+beads, soap 2 bars in 3 boxes (wood). 1st, tea and matunda; 2nd, wooden
+box, paper and shirts; 3rd, iron box, shoes, quinine, 1 bag of coffee,
+sextant stand, one long wooden box empty. These are left with Mohamad
+bin Saleh at Ujiji, Christmas Day, 1871. Two bags of beads are already
+here and table cloths.
+
+_26th December, 1871._--Had but a sorry Christmas yesterday.
+
+_27th December, 1871.--Mem_. To send Moenyegheré some coffee and tell
+his wishes to Masudi.
+
+_27th December, 1871._--Left Ujiji 9 A.M., and crossed goats, donkeys,
+and men over Luiché. Sleep at the Malagarasi.
+
+_29th December, 1871._--Crossed over the broad bay of the Malagarasi to
+Kagonga and sleep.
+
+_30th December, 1871._--Pass Viga Point, red sandstone, and cross the
+bay of the River Lugufu and Nkala village, and transport the people and
+goats: sleep.
+
+_31st December, 1871._--Send for beans, as there are no provisions in
+front of this. Brown water of the Lugufu bent away north: the high wind
+is S.W. and W. Having provisions we went round Munkalu Point. The water
+is slightly discoloured for a mile south of it, but brown water is seen
+on the north side of bay bent north by a current.
+
+_1st January, 1872._--May the Almighty help me to finish my work this
+year for Christ's sake! We slept in Mosehezi Bay. I was storm-stayed in
+Kifwé Bay, which is very beautiful--still as a millpond. We found 12 or
+13 hippopotami near a high bank, but did not kill any, for our balls are
+not hardened. It is high rocky tree-covered shore, with rocks bent and
+twisted wonderfully; large slices are worn off the land with hillsides
+clad with robes of living green, yet very, very steep.
+
+_2nd January, 1872._--A very broad Belt of large tussocks of reeds lines
+the shore near Mount Kibanga or Boumba. We had to coast along to the
+south. Saw a village nearly afloat, the people having there taken refuge
+from their enemies. There are many hippopotami and crocodiles in
+Tanganyika. A river 30 yards wide, the Kibanga, flows in strongly. We
+encamped on an open space on a knoll and put up flags to guide our land
+party to us.
+
+_3rd January, 1872._--We send off to buy food. Mr. Stanley shot a fat
+zebra, its meat was very good.
+
+_4th January, 1872._--The Ujijians left last night with their canoes. I
+gave them 14 fundos of beads to buy food on the way. We are now waiting
+for our land party. I gave headmen here at Burimba 2 dotis and a
+Kitamba. Men arrived yesterday or 4-1/2 days from the Lugufu.
+
+_5th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley is ill of fever. I am engaged in
+copying notes into my journal. All men and goats arrived safely.
+
+_6th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley better, and we prepare to go.
+
+_7th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley shot a buffalo at the end of our first
+march up. East and across the hills. The River Luajeré is in front. We
+spend the night at the carcase of the buffalo.
+
+_8th January, 1872._--We crossed the river, which is 30 yards wide and
+rapid. It is now knee and waist deep. The country is rich and beautiful,
+hilly and tree-covered, reddish soil, and game abundant.
+
+_9th January, 1872._--Rainy, but we went on E. and N.N.E. through a
+shut-in valley to an opening full of all kinds of game. Buffalo cows
+have calves now: one was wounded. Rain came down abundantly.
+
+_10th January, 1872._--Across a very lovely green country of open forest
+all fresh, and like an English gentleman's park. Game plentiful.
+Tree-covered mountains right and left, and much brown hæmatite on the
+levels. Course E. A range of mountains appears about three miles off on
+our right.
+
+_11th January, 1872._--Off through open forest for three hours east,
+then cook, and go on east another three hours, over very rough rocky,
+hilly country. River Mtambahu.
+
+_12th January, 1872._--Off early, and pouring rain came down; as we
+advance the country is undulating. We cross a rivulet 15 yards wide
+going north, and at another of 3 yards came to a halt; all wet and
+uncomfortable.
+
+The people pick up many mushrooms and manendinga roots, like turnips.
+There are buffaloes near us in great numbers.
+
+_13th January, 1872._--Fine morning. Went through an undulating hilly
+country clothed with upland trees for three hours, then breakfast in an
+open glade, with bottom of rocks of brown hæmatite, and a hole with
+rain-water in it. We are over 1000 feet higher than Tanganyika. It
+became cloudy, and we finished our march in a pouring rain, at a rivulet
+thickly clad with aquatic trees on banks. Course E.S.E.
+
+_14th January, 1872._--Another fine morning, but miserably wet
+afternoon. We went almost 4' E.S.E., and crossed a strong rivulet 8 or
+10 yards wide: then on and up to a ridge and along the top of it, going
+about south. We had breakfast on the edge of the plateau, looking down
+into a broad lovely valley. We now descended, and saw many reddish
+monkeys, which made a loud outcry: there was much game, but scattered,
+and we got none. Miserably wet crossing another stream, then up a valley
+to see a deserted Boma or fenced village.
+
+_15th January, 1872._--Along a valley with high mountains on each hand,
+then up over that range on our left or south. At the top some lions
+roared. We then went on on high land, and saw many hartebeests and
+zebra, but did not get one, though a buffalo was knocked over. We
+crossed a rivulet, and away over beautiful and undulating hills and
+vales, covered with many trees and jambros fruit. Sleep at a running
+rill.
+
+_16th January, 1872._--A very cold night after long-continued and heavy
+rain. Our camp was among brakens. Went E. and by S. along the high land,
+then we saw a village down in a deep valley into which we descended.
+Then up another ridge in a valley and along to a village well
+cultivated--up again 700 feet at least, and down to Meréra's village,
+hid in a mountainous nook, about 140 huts with doors on one side. The
+valleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the people being eagerly
+engaged in weeding and hoeing to take advantage of the abundant rains
+which have drenched us every afternoon.
+
+_17th January, 1872._--We remain at Meréra's to buy food for our men
+and ourselves.
+
+_18th January, 1872._--March, but the Mirongosi wandered and led us
+round about instead of S.S.E. We came near some tree-covered hills, and
+a river Monya Mazi--Mtamba River in front. I have very sore feet from
+bad shoes.
+
+_19th January, 1872._--Went about S.E. for four hours, and crossed the
+Mbamba River and passed through open forest. There is a large rock in
+the river, and hills thickly tree-covered, 2' East and West, down a
+steep descent and camp. Came down River Mpokwa over rough country with
+sore feet, to ruins of a village Basivira and sleep. _21st._--Rest.
+_22nd._--Rest. Mr. Stanley shot two zebras yesterday, and a she giraffe
+to-day, the meat of the giraffe was 1000 lbs. weight, the two zebras
+about 800 lbs.
+
+_23rd January, 1872._--Rest. Mr. Stanley has fever. _24th._--Ditto.
+_25th_.--Stanley ill. _26th_.--Stanley better and off.
+
+_26th January, 1872._--Through low hills N.E. and among bamboos to open
+forest--on in undulating bushy tract to a river with two rounded hills
+east, one having three mushroom-shaped trees on it.
+
+_27th January, 1872._--On across long land waves and the only bamboos
+east of Mpokwa Rill to breakfast. In going on a swarm of bees attacked a
+donkey Mr. Stanley bought for me, and instead of galloping off, as did
+the other, the fool of a beast rolled down, and over and over. I did the
+same, then ran, dashed into a bush like an ostrich pursued, then ran
+whisking a bush round my head. They gave me a sore head and face, before
+I got rid of the angry insects: I never saw men attacked before: the
+donkey was completely knocked up by the stings on head, face, and lips,
+and died in two days, in consequence. We slept in the stockade of
+Misonghi.
+
+_28th January, 1872._--We crossed the river and then away E. to near a
+hill. Crossed two rivers, broad and marshy, and deep with elephants
+plunging. Rain almost daily, but less in amount now. Bombay says his
+greatest desire is to visit Speke's grave ere he dies: he has a square
+head with the top depressed in the centre.
+
+_29th January, 1872._--We ascended a ridge, the edge of a flat basin
+with ledges of dark brown sandstone, the brim of ponds in which were
+deposited great masses of brown hæmatite, disintegrated into gravel,
+flat open forest with short grass. We crossed a rill of light-coloured
+water three times and reached a village. After this in 1-1/2 hour we
+came to Meréra's.
+
+_30th January, 1872._--At Meréra's, the second of the name. Much rain
+and very heavy; food abundant. Baniayamwezi and Yukonongo people here.
+
+_31st January, 1872._--Through scraggy bush, then open forest with short
+grass, over a broad rill and on good path to village Mwaro; chief
+Kamirambo.
+
+_1st February, 1872._--We met a caravan of Syde bin Habib's people
+yesterday who reported that Mirambo has offered to repay all the goods
+he has robbed the Arabs of, all the ivory, powder, blood, &c., but his
+offer was rejected. The country all around is devastated, and Arab force
+is at Simba's. Mr. Stanley's man Shaw is dead. There is very great
+mortality by small-pox amongst the Arabs and at the coast. We went over
+flat upland forest, open and bushy, then down a deep descent and along
+N.E. to a large tree at a deserted stockade.
+
+_2nd February, 1872._--Away over ridges of cultivation and elephant's
+footsteps. Cultivators all swept away by Basavira. Very many elephants
+feed here. We lost our trail and sent men to seek it, then came to the
+camp in the forest. Lunched at rill running into Ngombé Nullah.
+
+Ukamba is the name of the Tsetse fly here.
+
+_3rd February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley has severe fever, with great pains in
+the back and loins: an emetic helped him a little, but resin of jalap
+would have cured him quickly. Rainy all day.
+
+_4th February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley so ill that we carried him in a cot
+across flat forest and land covered with short grass for three hours,
+about north-east, and at last found a path, which was a great help. As
+soon as the men got under cover continued rains began. There is a camp
+of Malongwana here.
+
+_5th February, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. Mr. Stanley a little better, but
+still carried across same level forest; we pass water in pools, and one
+in hæmatite. Saw a black rhinoceros, and come near people.
+
+_6th February, 1872._--Drizzly morning, but we went on, and in two hours
+got drenched with cold N.W. rain: the paths full of water we splashed
+along to our camp in a wood. Met a party of native traders going to
+Mwara.
+
+_7th February, 1872._--Along level plains, and clumps of forest, and
+hollows filled at present with water, about N.E., to a large pool of
+Ngombé Nullah. Send off two men to Unyanyembé for letters and medicine.
+
+_8th February, 1872._--Removed from the large pool of the nullah, about
+an hour north, to where game abounds. Saw giraffes and zebras on our
+way. The nullah is covered with lotus-plants, and swarms with
+crocodiles.
+
+_9th February, 1872._--Remained for game, but we were unsuccessful. An
+eland was shot by Mr. Stanley, but it was lost. Departed at 2 P.M., and
+reached Manyara, a kind old chief. The country is flat, and covered with
+detached masses of forest, with open glades and flats.
+
+_10th February, 1872._--Leave Manyara and pass along the same park-like
+country, with but little water. The rain sinks into the sandy soil at
+once, and the collection is seldom seen. After a hard tramp we came to a
+pool by a sycamore-tree, 28 feet 9 inches in circumference, with broad
+fruit-laden branches. Ziwané.
+
+_11th February, 1872._--Rain nearly all night. Scarcely a day has
+passed without rain and thunder since we left Tanganyika Across a flat
+forest again, meeting a caravan for Ujiji. The grass is three feet high,
+and in seed. Reach Chikuru, a stockaded village, with dura plantations
+around it and pools of rain-water.
+
+_12th February, 1872._--Rest.
+
+_13th February, 1872._--Leave Chikuru, and wade across an open flat with
+much standing-water. They plant rice on the wet land round the villages.
+Our path lies through an open forest, where many trees are killed for
+the sake of the bark, which is used as cloth, and for roofing and beds.
+Mr. Stanley has severe fever.
+
+_14th February, 1872._--Across the same flat open forest, with scraggy
+trees and grass three feet long in tufts. Came to a Boma. N.E. Gunda.
+
+_15th February, 1872._--Over the same kind of country, where the water
+was stagnant, to camp in the forest.
+
+_16th February, 1872._--Camp near Kigando, in a rolling country with
+granite knolls.
+
+_17th February, 1872._--Over a country, chiefly level, with stagnant
+water; rounded hills were seen. Cross a rain torrent and encamp in a new
+Boma, Magonda.
+
+_18th February, 1872._--Go through low tree-covered hills of granite,
+with blocks of rock sticking out: much land cultivated, and many
+villages. The country now opens out and we come to the Tembé,[16] in the
+midst of many straggling villages. Unyanyembé. Thanks to the Almighty.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] The reader will best judge of the success of the experiment by
+looking at a specimen of the writing. An old sheet of the _Standard_
+newspaper, made into rough copy-books, sufficed for paper in the
+absence of all other material, and by writing across the print no
+doubt the notes were tolerably legible at the time. The colour of the
+decoction used instead of ink has faded so much that if Dr.
+Livingstone's handwriting had not at all times been beautifully clear
+and distinct it would have been impossible to decipher this part of
+his diary.--Ed.
+
+[15] Thus the question of the Lusizé was settled at once: the previous
+notion of its outflow to the north proved a myth.--ED.
+
+[16] Tembé, a flat-roofed Arab house.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyanyembé. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir S. Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married.
+
+
+By the arrival of the fast Ramadân on the 14th November, and a Nautical
+Almanac, I discovered that I was on that date twenty-one days too fast
+in my reckoning. Mr. Stanley used some very strong arguments in favour
+of my going home, recruiting my strength, getting artificial teeth, and
+then returning to finish my task; but my judgment said, "All your
+friends will wish you to make a complete work of the exploration of the
+sources of the Nile before you retire." My daughter Agnes says, "Much as
+I wish you to come home, I would rather that you finished your work to
+your own satisfaction than return merely to gratify me." Rightly and
+nobly said, my darling Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty loudly, "She is a
+chip of the old block." My blessing on her and all the rest.
+
+It is all but certain that four full-grown gushing fountains rise on the
+watershed eight days south of Katanga, each of which at no great
+distance off becomes a large river; and two rivers thus formed flow
+north to Egypt, the other two to Inner Ethiopia; that is, Lufira or
+Bartle Frere's River, flows into Kamolondo, and that into Webb's
+Lualaba, the main line of drainage. Another, on the north side of the
+sources, Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba, flows through Lake Lincoln,
+otherwise named Chibungo and Lomamé, and that too into Webb's Lualaba.
+Then Liambai Fountain, Palmerston's, forms the Upper Zambesi; and the
+Lunga (Lunga), Oswell's Fountain, is the Kafué; both flowing into Inner
+Ethiopia. It may be that these are not the fountains of the Nile
+mentioned to Herodotus by the secretary of Minerva, in Sais, in Egypt;
+but they are worth discovery, as in the last hundred of the seven
+hundred miles of the watershed, from which nearly all the Nile springs
+do unquestionably arise.
+
+I propose to go from Unyanyembé to Fipa; then round the south end of
+Tanganyika, Tambeté, or Mbeté; then across the Chambezé, and round south
+of Lake Bangweolo, and due west to the ancient fountains; leaving the
+underground excavations till after visiting Katanga. This route will
+serve to certify that no other sources of the Nile can come from the
+south without being seen by me. No one will cut me out after this
+exploration is accomplished; and may the good Lord of all help me to
+show myself one of His stout-hearted servants, an honour to my children,
+and, perhaps, to my country and race.
+
+Our march extended from 26th December, 1871, till 18th February, 1872,
+or fifty-four days. This was over 300 miles, and thankful I am to reach
+Unyanyembé, and the Tembé Kwikuru.
+
+I find, also, that the two headmen selected by the notorious, but covert
+slave-trader, Ludha Damji, have been plundering my stores from the 20th
+October, 1870, to 18th February, 1872, or nearly sixteen months. One has
+died of small-pox, and the other not only plundered my stores, but has
+broken open the lock of Mr. Stanley's storeroom, and plundered his
+goods. He declared that all my goods were safe, but when the list was
+referred to, and the goods counted, and he was questioned as to the
+serious loss, he at last remembered a bale of seven pieces of merikano,
+and three kaniké--or 304 yards, that he evidently had hidden. On
+questioning him about the boxes brought, he was equally ignorant, but at
+last said, "Oh! I remember a box of brandy where it went, and every one
+knows as well as I."
+
+_18th February, 1872._--This, and Mr. Stanley's goods being found in his
+possession, make me resolve to have done with him. My losses by the
+robberies of the Banian employed slaves are more than made up by Mr.
+Stanley, who has given me twelve bales of calico; nine loads = fourteen
+and a half bags of beads; thirty-eight coils of brass wire; a tent;
+boat; bath; cooking pots; twelve copper sheets; air beds; trowsers;
+jackets, &c. Indeed, I am again quite set up, and as soon as he can send
+men, not slaves, from the coast I go to my work, with a fair prospect of
+finishing it.
+
+_19th February, 1872._--Rest. Receive 38 coils of brass wire from Mr.
+Stanley, 14-1/2 bags of beads, 12 copper sheets, a strong canvas tent,
+boat-trowsers, nine loads of calico, a bath, cooking pots, a medicine
+chest, a good lot of tools, tacks, screw nails, copper nails, books,
+medicines, paper, tar, many cartridges, and some shot.
+
+_20th February, 1872._--To my great joy I got four flannel shirt from
+Agnes, and I was delighted to find that two pairs of fine English boots
+had most considerately been sent by my friend Mr. Waller. Mr. Stanley
+and I measured the calico and found that 733-3/4 yards were wanting,
+also two frasilahs of samsam, and one case of brandy. Othman pretended
+sickness, and blamed the dead men, but produced a bale of calico hidden
+in Thani's goods; this reduced the missing quantity to 436-1/2 yards.
+
+_21st February, 1872._--Heavy rains. I am glad we are in shelter. Masudi
+is an Arab, near to Ali bin Salem at Bagamoio. Bushir is an Arab, for
+whose slave he took a bale of calico. Masudi took this Chirongozi, who
+is not a slave, as a pagazi or porter. Robbed by Bushir at the 5th camp
+from Bagamoio. Othman confessed that he knew of the sale of the box of
+brandy, and brought also a shawl which he had forgotten: I searched him,
+and found Mr. Stanley's stores which he had stolen.
+
+_22nd February, 1872._--Service this morning, and thanked God for safety
+thus far. Got a packet of letters from an Arab.
+
+_23rd February, 1872._--Send to Governor for a box which he has kept for
+four years: it is all eaten by white ants: two fine guns and a pistol
+are quite destroyed, all the wood-work being eaten. The brandy bottles
+were broken to make it appear as if by an accident, but the corks being
+driven in, and corks of maize cobs used in their place, show that a
+thief has drunk the brandy and then broken the bottles. The tea was
+spoiled, but the china was safe, and the cheese good.
+
+_24th February, 1872._--Writing a despatch to Lord Granville against
+Banian slaving, and in favour of an English native settlement transfer.
+
+_25th February, 1872._--A number of Batusi women came to-day asking for
+presents. They are tall and graceful in form, with well-shaped small
+heads, noses, and mouths. They are the chief owners of cattle here. The
+war with Mirambo is still going on. The Governor is ashamed to visit me.
+
+_26th February, 1872._--Writing journal and despatch.
+
+_27th February, 1872._--Moene-mokaia is ill of heart disease and liver
+abscess. I sent him some blistering fluid. To-day we hold a Christmas
+feast.
+
+_28th February, 1872._--Writing journal. Syde bin Salem called; he is a
+China-looking man, and tried to be civil to us.
+
+_5th March, 1872._--My friend Moene-mokaia came yesterday; he is very
+ill of abscess in liver, which has burst internally. I gave him some
+calomel and jalap to open his bowels. He is very weak; his legs are
+swollen, but body emaciated.
+
+_6th March, 1872._--Repairing tent, and receiving sundry stores,
+Moenem-okaia died.
+
+_7th March, 1872._--Received a machine for filling cartridges.
+
+_8th and 9th March, 1872._--Writing.
+
+_10th March, 1872._--Writing. Gave Mr. Stanley a cheque for 5000 rupees
+on Stewart and Co., Bombay. This 500_l._ is to be drawn if Dr. Kirk has
+expended the rest of the 1000_l._ If not, then the cheque is to be
+destroyed by Mr. Stanley.
+
+_12th March, 1872._--Writing.
+
+_13th March, 1872._--Finished my letter to Mr. Bennett of the _New York
+Herald_, and Despatch No. 3 to Lord Granville.
+
+_14th March, 1872._--Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to his care my journal
+sealed with five seals: the impressions on them are those of an American
+gold coin, anna, and half anna, and cake of paint with royal arms.
+Positively not to be opened.
+
+
+[We must leave each heart to know its own bitterness, as the old
+explorer retraces his steps to the Tembé at Kwihara, there to hope and
+pray that good fortune may attend his companion of the last few months
+on his journey to the coast; whilst Stanley, duly impressed with the
+importance of that which he can reveal to the outer world, and laden
+with a responsibility which by this time can be fully comprehended,
+thrusts on through every difficulty.
+
+There is nothing for it now but to give Mr. Stanley time to get to
+Zanzibar, and to shorten by any means at hand the anxious period which
+must elapse before evidence can arrive that he has carried out the
+commission entrusted to him.
+
+As we shall see, Livingstone was not without some material to afford him
+occupation. Distances were calculated from native report; preparations
+were pushed on for the coming journey to Lake Bangweolo; apparatus was
+set in order. Travellers from all quarters dropped in from time to time:
+each contributed something about his own land; whilst waifs and strays
+of news from the expedition sent by the Arabs against Mirambo kept the
+settlement alive. To return to his Diary.
+
+How much seems to lie in their separating, when we remember that with
+the last shake of the hand, and the last adieu, came the final parting
+between Livingstone and all that could represent the interest felt by
+the world in his travels, or the sympathy of the white man!]
+
+_15th March, 1872._--Writing to send after Mr. Stanley by two of his
+men, who wait here for the purpose. Copied line of route, observations
+from Kabuiré to Casembe's, the second visit, and on to Lake Bangweolo;
+then the experiment of weight on watch-key at Nyañgwé and Lusizé.
+
+_16th March, 1872._--Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, and two of mine to
+bring his last words, if any.
+
+[Sunday was kept in the quiet of the Tembé, on the 17th March. Two days
+after, and his birthday again comes round--that day which seems always
+to have carried with it such a special solemnity. He has yet time to
+look back on his marvellous deliverances, and the venture he is about to
+launch forth upon.]
+
+_19th March, 1872._--Birthday. My Jesus, my king, my life, my all; I
+again dedicate my whole self to Thee. Accept me, and grant, Gracious
+Father, that ere this year is gone I may finish my task. In Jesus' name
+I ask it. Amen, so let it be.
+
+DAVID LIVINGSTONE.
+
+[Many of his astronomical observations were copied out at this time, and
+minute records taken of the rainfall. Books saved up against a rainy day
+were read in the middle of the "Masika" and its heavy showers.]
+
+_21st March, 1872._--Read Baker's book. It is artistic and clever.
+He does good service in exploring the Nile slave-trade; I hope he may be
+successful in suppressing it.
+
+The Batusi are the cattle herds of all this Unyanyembé region. They are
+very polite in address. The women have small compact, well-shaped heads
+and pretty faces; colour, brown; very pleasant to speak to; well-shaped
+figures, with small hands and feet; the last with high insteps, and
+springy altogether. Plants and grass are collected every day, and a fire
+with much smoke made to fumigate the cattle and keep off flies: the
+cattle like it, and the valleys are filled with smoke in the evening in
+consequence. The Baganda are slaves in comparison; black, with a tinge
+of copper-colour sometimes; bridgeless noses, large nostrils and lips,
+but well-made limbs and feet.
+
+[We see that the thread by which he still draws back a lingering word or
+two from Stanley has not parted yet.]
+
+_25th March, 1872._--Susi brought a letter back from Mr. Stanley. He had
+a little fever, but I hope he will go on safely.
+
+_26th March, 1872._--Rain of Masika chiefly by night. The Masika of 1871
+began on 23rd of March, and ended 30th of April.
+
+_27th March, 1872._--Reading. Very heavy rains.
+
+_28th March, 1872._--Moenyembegu asked for the loan of a "doti." He is
+starving, and so is the war-party at M'Futu; chaining their slaves
+together to keep them from running away to get food anywhere.
+
+_29th, 30th, 31st March, 1872._--Very rainy weather. Am reading 'Mungo
+Park's Travels;' they look so truthful.
+
+_1st April, 1872._--Read Young's 'Search after Livingstone;' thankful
+for many kind words about me. He writes like a gentleman.
+
+_2nd April, 1872._--Making a sounding-line out of lint left by Mr.
+Stanley. Whydah birds are now building their nests. The cock-bird brings
+fine grass seed-stalks off the top of my Tembé. He takes the end inside
+the nest and pulls it all in, save the ear. The hen keeps inside,
+constantly arranging the grass with all her might, sometimes making the
+whole nest move by her efforts. Feathers are laid in after the grass.
+
+_4th April, 1872._--We hear that Dugumbé's men have come to Ujiji with
+fifty tusks. He went down Lualaba with three canoes a long way and
+bought much ivory. They were not molested by Monangungo as we were.
+
+My men whom I had sent to look for a book left by accident in a hut some
+days' journey off came back stopped by a flood in their track. Copying
+observations for Sir T. Maclear.
+
+_8th April, 1872._--An Arab called Seyed bin Mohamad Magibbé called. He
+proposes to go west to the country west of Katanga (Urangé).
+
+[It is very interesting to find that the results of the visit paid by
+Speke and Grant to Mtéza, King of Uganda, have already become well
+marked. As we see, Livingstone was at Unyanyembé when a large trading
+party dropped in on their way back to the king, who, it will be
+remembered, lives on the north-western shores of the Victoria Nyassa.]
+
+_9th April, 1872._--About 150 Waganga of Mtéza carried a present to
+Seyed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, consisting of ivory and a young
+elephant.[17] He spent all the ivory in buying return presents of
+gunpowder, guns, soap, brandy, gin, &c., and they have stowed it all in
+this Tembé. This morning they have taken everything out to see if
+anything is spoilt. They have hundreds of packages.
+
+One of the Baganda told me yesterday that the name of the Deity is
+Dubalé in his tongue.
+
+_15th April, 1872._--Hung up the sounding-line on poles 1 fathom apart
+and tarred it. 375 fathoms of 5 strands.
+
+Ptolemy's geography of Central Africa seems to say that the science was
+then (second century A.D.) in a state of decadence from what was known
+to the ancient Egyptian priests as revealed to Herodotus 600 years
+before his day (or say B.C. 440). They seem to have been well aware by
+the accounts of travellers or traders that a great number of springs
+contributed to the origin of the Nile, but none could be pointed at
+distinctly as the "Fountains," except those I long to discover, or
+rather rediscover. Ptolemy seems to have gathered up the threads of
+ancient explorations, and made many springs (six) flow into two Lakes
+situated East and West of each other--the space above them being
+unknown. If the Victoria Lake were large, then it and the Albert would
+probably be the Lakes which Ptolemy meant, and it would be pleasant to
+call them Ptolemy's sources, rediscovered by the toil and enterprise of
+our countrymen Speke, Grant, and Baker--but unfortunately Ptolemy has
+inserted the small Lake "Coloe," nearly where the Victoria Lake stands,
+and one cannot say where his two Lakes are. Of Lakes Victoria,
+Bangweolo, Moero, Kamolondo--Lake Lincoln and Lake Albert, which two did
+he mean? The science in his time was in a state of decadence. Were two
+Lakes not the relics of a greater number previously known? What says the
+most ancient map known of Sethos II.'s time?
+
+_16th April, 1872._--Went over to visit Sultan bin Ali near
+Tabora--country open, plains sloping very gently down from low rounded
+granite hills covered with trees. Rounded masses of the light grey
+granite crop out all over them, but many are hidden by the trees: Tabora
+slopes down from some of the same hills that overlook Kwihara, where I
+live. At the bottom of the slope swampy land lies, and during the Masika
+it is flooded and runs westwards. The sloping plain on the North of the
+central drain is called Kazé--that on the South is Tabora, and
+this is often applied to the whole space between the hills north and
+south. Sultan bin Ali is very hospitable. He is of the Bedawee Arabs,
+and a famous marksman with his long Arab gun or matchlock. He often
+killed hares with it, always hitting them in the head. He is about
+sixty-five years of age, black eyed, six feet high and inclined to
+stoutness, and his long beard is nearly all grey. He provided two
+bountiful meals for self and attendants.
+
+Called on Mohamad bin Nassur--recovering from sickness. He presented a
+goat and a large quantity of guavas. He gave the news that came from
+Dugumbé's underling Nseréré, and men now at Ujiji; they went S.W. to
+country called Nombé, it is near Rua, and where copper is smelted. After
+I left them on account of the massacre at Nyañgwé, they bought much
+ivory, but acting in the usual Arab way, plundering and killing, they
+aroused the Bakuss' ire, and as they are very numerous, about 200 were
+killed, and none of Dugumbé's party. They brought fifty tusks to Ujiji.
+We dare not pronounce positively on any event in life, but this looks
+like prompt retribution on the perpetrators of the horrible and
+senseless massacre of Nyañgwé. It was not vengeance by the relations of
+the murdered ones we saw shot and sunk in the Lualaba, for there is no
+communication between the people of Nyañgwé and the Bakuss or people of
+Nombé of Lomamé--that massacre turned my heart completely against
+Dugumbé's people. To go with them to Lomamé as my slaves were willing to
+do, was so repugnant I preferred to return that weary 400 or 600 miles
+to Ujiji. I mourned over my being baffled and thwarted all the way, but
+tried to believe that it was all for the best--this news shows that had
+I gone with these people to Lomamé, I could not have escaped the Bakuss
+spears, for I could not have run like the routed fugitives. I was
+prevented from going in order to save me from death. Many escapes from
+danger I am aware of: some make me shudder, as I think how near to
+death's door I came. But how many more instances of Providential
+protecting there may be of which I know nothing! But I thank most
+sincerely the good Lord of all for His goodness to me.
+
+_18th April, 1872._--I pray the good Lord of all to favour me so as to
+allow me to discover the ancient fountains of Herodotus, and if there
+is anything in the underground excavations to confirm the precious old
+documents (τἁ βιβλἱα), the Scriptures of truth, may He permit
+me to bring it to light, and give me wisdom to make a proper use of it.
+
+Some seem to feel that their own importance in the community is enhanced
+by an imaginary connection with a discovery or discoverer of the Nile
+sources, and are only too happy to figure, if only in a minor part, as
+theoretical discoverers--a theoretical discovery being a contradiction
+in terms.
+
+The cross has been used--not as a Christian emblem certainly, but from
+time immemorial as the form in which the copper ingot of Katañga is
+moulded--this is met with quite commonly, and is called Handiplé
+Mahandi. Our capital letter I (called Vigera) is the large form of the
+bars of copper, each about 60 or 70 lbs. weight, seen all over Central
+Africa and from Katañga.
+
+_19th April, 1872._--A roll of letters and newspapers, apparently, came
+to-day for Mr. Stanley. The messenger says he passed Mr. Stanley on the
+way, who said, "Take this to the Doctor;" this is erroneous. The Prince
+of Wales is reported to be dying of typhoid fever: the Princess Louise
+has hastened to his bedside.
+
+_20th April, 1872._--Opened it on 20th, and found nine 'New York
+Heralds' of December 1-9, 1871, and one letter for Mr. Stanley, which. I
+shall forward, and one stick of tobacco.
+
+_21st April, 1872._--Tarred the tent presented by Mr. Stanley.
+
+_23rd April, 1872._--Visited Kwikuru, and saw the chief of all the
+Banyamwezi (around whose Boma it is), about sixty years old, and
+partially paralytic. He told me that he had gone as far as Katañga by
+the same Fipa route I now propose to take, when a little boy following
+his father, who was a great trader.
+
+The name Banyamwezi arose from an ivory ornament of the shape of the new
+moon hung to the neck, with a horn reaching round over either shoulder.
+They believe that they came from the sea-coast, Mombas (?) of old, and
+when people inquired for them they said, "We mean the men of the moon
+ornament." It is very popular even now, and a large amount of ivory is
+cut down in its manufacture; some are made of the curved tusks of
+hippopotami. The Banyamwezi have turned out good porters, and they do
+most of the carrying work of the trade to and from the East Coast; they
+are strong and trustworthy. One I saw carried six frasilahs, or 200
+lbs., of ivory from Unyanyembé to the sea-coast.
+
+The prefix "_Nya_" in Nyamwezi seems to mean place or locality, as Mya
+does on the Zambesi. If the name referred to the "moon ornament," as the
+people believe, the name would be Ba or Wamwezi, but Banyamwezi means
+probably the Ba--they or people--Nya, place--Mwezi, moon, people of the
+moon locality or moon-land.
+
+_Unyanyembé_, place of hoes.
+
+Unyambéwa.
+
+Unyangoma, place of drums.
+
+Nyangurué, place of pigs.
+
+Nyangkondo.
+
+Nyarukwé.
+
+It must be a sore affliction to be bereft of one's reason, and the more
+so if the insanity takes the form of uttering thoughts which in a sound
+state we drive from us as impure.
+
+_25th and 26th April, 1872._--A touch of fever from exposure.
+
+_27th April, 1872._--Better, and thankful. Zahor died of small-pox here,
+after collecting much ivory at Fipa and Urungu. It is all taken up by
+Lewalé.[18]
+
+The rains seem nearly over, and are succeeded by very cold easterly
+winds; these cause fever by checking the perspiration, and are well
+known as eminently febrile. The Arabs put the cause of the fever to the
+rains drying up. In my experience it is most unhealthy during the rains
+if one gets wet; the chill is brought on, the bowels cease to act, and
+fever sets in. Now it is the cold wind that operates, and possibly this
+is intensified by the malaria of the drying-up surface. A chill from
+bathing on the 25th in cold water gave me a slight attack.
+
+_1st May, 1872._--Unyanyembé: bought a cow for 11 dotis of merikano (and
+2 kaniké for calf), she gives milk, and this makes me independent.
+
+Headman of the Baganda from whom I bought it said, "I go off to pray."
+He has been taught by Arabs, and is the first proselyte they have
+gained. Baker thinks that the first want of Africans is to teach them to
+_want_. Interesting, seeing he was bored almost to death by Kamrasi
+wanting everything he had.
+
+Bought three more cows and calves for milk, they give good quantity
+enough for me and mine, and are small shorthorns: one has a hump--two
+black with white spots and one white--one black with white face: the
+Baganda were well pleased with the prices given, and so am I. Finished a
+letter for the _New York Herald,_ trying to enlist American zeal to stop
+the East Coast slave-trade: I pray for a blessing on it from the
+All-Gracious. [Through a coincidence a singular interest attaches to
+this entry. The concluding words of the letter he refers to are as
+follows:--]
+
+"All I can add in my loneliness is, may Heaven's rich blessing come down
+on everyone, American, English, or Turk, who will help to heal the open
+sore of the world."
+
+[It was felt that nothing could more palpably represent the man, and
+this quotation has consequently been inscribed upon the tablet erected
+to his memory near his grave in Westminster Abbey. It was noticed some
+time after selecting it that Livingstone wrote these words exactly one
+year before his death, which, as we shall see, took place on the 1st
+May, 1873.]
+
+_3rd May, 1872._--The entire population of Unyanyembé called Arab is
+eighty males, many of these are country born, and are known by the
+paucity of beard and bridgeless noses, as compared with men from Muscat;
+the Muscatees are more honourable than the mainlanders, and more
+brave--altogether better looking and better everyway.
+
+If we say that the eighty so-called Arabs here have twenty dependants
+each, 1500 or 1600 is the outside population of Unyanyembé in connection
+with the Arabs. It is called an ivory station, that means simply that
+elephant's tusks are the chief articles of trade. But little ivory comes
+to market, every Arab who is able sends bands of his people to different
+parts to trade: the land being free they cultivate patches of maize,
+dura, rice, beans, &c., and after one or two seasons, return with what
+ivory they may have secured. Ujiji is the only mart in the country, and
+it is chiefly for oil, grain, goats, salt, fish, beef, native produce of
+all sorts, and is held daily. A few tusks are sometimes brought, but it
+can scarcely be called an ivory mart for that. It is an institution
+begun and carried on by the natives in spite of great drawbacks from
+unjust Arabs. It resembles the markets of Manyuema, but is attended
+every day by about 300 people. No dura has been brought lately to Ujiji,
+because a Belooch man found the son of the chief of Mbwara Island
+peeping in at his women, and beat the young man, so that on returning
+home he died. The Mbwara people always brought much grain before that,
+but since that affair never come.
+
+The Arabs send a few freemen as heads of a party of slaves to trade.
+These select a friendly chief, and spend at least half these goods
+brought in presents on him, and in buying the best food the country
+affords for themselves. It happens frequently that the party comes back
+nearly empty handed, but it is the Banians that lose, and the Arabs are
+not much displeased. This point is not again occupied if it has been a
+dead loss.
+
+_4th May, 1872._--Many palavers about Mirambu's death having taken place
+and being concealed. Arabs say that he is a brave man, and the war is
+not near its end. Some northern natives called Bagoyé get a keg of
+powder and a piece of cloth, go and attack a village, then wait a month
+or so eating the food of the captured place, and come back for stores
+again: thus the war goes on. Prepared tracing paper to draw a map for
+Sir Thomas Maclear. Lewalé invites me to a feast.
+
+_7th May, 1872._--New moon last night. Went to breakfast with Lewalé. He
+says that the Mirambo war is virtually against himself as a Seyed Majid
+man. They wish to have him removed, and this would be a benefit.
+
+The Banyamwezi told the Arabs that they did not want them to go to
+fight, because when one Arab was killed all the rest ran away and the
+army got frightened.
+
+"Give us your slaves only and we will fight," say they.
+
+A Magohé man gave charms, and they pressed Mirambo sorely. His brother
+sent four tusks as a peace-offering, and it is thought that the end is
+near. His mother was plundered, and lost all her cattle.
+
+_9th May, 1872._--No fight, though it was threatened yesterday: they all
+like to talk a great deal before striking a blow. They believe that in
+the multitude of counsellors there is safety. Women singing as they
+pound their grain into meal,--"Oh, the march of Bwanamokolu to Katañga!
+Oh, the march to Katañga and back to Ujiji!--Oh, oh, oh!" Bwanamokolu
+means the great or old gentleman. Batusi women are very keen traders,
+and very polite and pleasing in their address and pretty way of
+speaking.
+
+I don't know how the great loving Father will bring all out right at
+last, but He knows and will do it.
+
+The African's idea seems to be that they are within the power of a power
+superior to themselves--apart from and invisible: good; but frequently
+evil and dangerous. This may have been the earliest religious feeling of
+dependence on a Divine power without any conscious feeling of its
+nature. Idols may have come in to give a definite idea of superior
+power, and the primitive faith or impression obtained by Revelation
+seems to have mingled with their idolatry without any sense of
+incongruity. (See Micah in Judges.)[19]
+
+The origin of the primitive faith in Africans and others, seems always
+to have been a divine influence on their dark minds, which has proved
+persistent in all ages. One portion of primitive belief--the continued
+existence of departed spirits--seems to have no connection whatever with
+dreams, or, as we should say, with "ghost seeing," for great agony is
+felt in prospect of bodily mutilation or burning of the body after
+death, as that is believed to render return to one's native land
+impossible. They feel as if it would shut them off from all intercourse
+with relatives after death. They would lose the power of doing good to
+those onceloved, and evil to those who deserved their revenge. Take the
+case of the slaves in the yoke, singing songs of hate and revenge
+against those who sold them into slavery. They thought it right so to
+harbour hatred, though most of the party had been sold for
+crimes--adultery, stealing, &c.--which they knew to be sins.
+
+If Baker's expedition should succeed in annexing the valley of the Nile
+to Egypt, the question arises,--Would not the miserable condition of the
+natives, when subjected to all the atrocities of the White Nile
+slave-traders, be worse under Egyptian dominion? The villages would be
+farmed out to tax-collectors, the women, children and boys carried off
+into slavery, and the free thought and feeling of the population placed
+under the dead weight of Islam. Bad as the situation now is, if Baker
+leaves it matters will grow worse. It is probable that actual experience
+will correct the fancies he now puts forth as to the proper mode of
+dealing with Africans.
+
+_10th May, 1872._--Hamees Wodin Tagh, my friend, is reported slain by
+the Makoa of a large village he went to fight. Other influential Arabs
+are killed, but full information has not yet arrived. He was in youth a
+slave, but by energy and good conduct in trading with the Masai and far
+south of Nyassa, and elsewhere, he rose to freedom and wealth. He had
+good taste in all his domestic arrangements, and seemed to be a good
+man. He showed great kindness to me on my arrival at Chitimbwa's.
+
+_11th May, 1872._--A serpent of dark olive colour was found dead at my
+door this morning, probably killed by a cat. Puss approaches very
+cautiously, and strikes her claws into the head with a blow delivered as
+quick as lightning; then holds the head down with both paws, heedless of
+the wriggling mass of coils behind it; she then bites the neck and
+leaves it, looking with interest to the disfigured head, as if she knew
+that therein had lain the hidden power of mischief. She seems to
+possess a little of the nature of the _Ichneumon_, which was sacred in
+Egypt from its destroying serpents. The serpent is in pursuit of mice
+when killed by puss.
+
+_12th May, 1872._--Singeri, the headman of the Baganda here, offered me
+a cow and calf yesterday, but I declined, as we were strangers both, and
+this is too much for me to take. I said that I would take ten cows at
+Mtésa's if he offered them. I gave him a little medicine (arnica) for
+his wife, whose face was burned by smoking over gunpowder. Again he
+pressed the cow and calf in vain.
+
+The reported death of Hamees Wodin Tagh is contradicted. It was so
+circumstantial that I gave it credit, though the false reports in this
+land are one of its most marked characteristics. They are "enough to
+spear a sow."
+
+_13th May, 1872._--He will keep His word--the gracious One, full of
+grace and truth--no doubt of it. He said, "Him that cometh unto me, I
+will in nowise cast out," and "Whatsoever ye shall ask in my name I
+will give it." He WILL keep His word: then I can come and humbly
+present my petition, and it will be all right. Doubt is here
+inadmissible, surely.--D.L.
+
+Ajala's people, sent to buy ivory in Uganda, were coming back with some
+ten tusks and were attacked at Ugalla by robbers, and one free man
+slain: the rest threw everything down and fled. They came here with
+their doleful tale to-day.
+
+_14th May, 1872._--People came from Ujiji to-day, and report that many
+of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves have died of small-pox--Fundi and Suliman
+amongst them. Others sent out to get firewood have been captured by the
+Waha. Mohamad's chief slave, Othman, went to see the cause of their
+losses received a spear in the back, the point coming out at his
+breast. It is scarcely possible to tell how many of the slaves have
+perished since they were bought or captured, but the loss has been
+grievous.
+
+Lewalé off to Mfutu to loiter and not to fight. The Bagoyé don't wish
+Arabs to come near the scene of action, because, say they, "When one
+Arab is killed all the rest ran away, and they frighten us thereby. Stay
+at M'futu; we will do all the fighting." This is very acceptable advice.
+
+_16th May, 1872._--A man came from Ujiji to say one of the party at
+Kasongo's reports that a marauding party went thence to the island of
+Bazula north of them. They ferried them to an island, and in coming back
+they were assaulted by the islanders in turn. They speared two in canoes
+shoving off, and the rest, panic-struck, took to the water, and
+thirty-five were slain. It was a just punishment, and shows what the
+Manyuema can do, if aroused to right their wrongs. No news of Baker's
+party; but Abed and Hassani are said to be well, and far down the
+Lualaba. Nassur Masudi is at Kasongo's, probably afraid by the Zula
+slaughter to go further. They will shut their own market against
+themselves. Lewalé sends off letters to the Sultan to-day. I have no
+news to send, but am waiting wearily.
+
+_17th May, 1872._--Ailing. Making cheeses for the journey: good, but
+sour rather, as the milk soon turns in this climate, and we don't use
+rennet, but allow the milk to coagulate of itself, and it does thicken
+in half a day.
+
+_18th-19th May, 1872._--One of Dugumbé's men came to-day from Ujiji. He
+confirms the slaughter of Matereka's people, but denies that of
+Dugumbé's men. They went to Lomamé about eleven days west, and found it
+to be about the size of Luamo; it comes from a Lake, and goes to
+Lualaba, near the Kisingité, a cataract. Dugumbé then sent his people
+down Lualaba, where much ivory is to be obtained. They secured a great
+deal of copper--1000 thick bracelets--on the south-west of Nyangwé, and
+some ivory, but not so much as they desired. No news of Abed. Lomamé
+water is black, and black scum comes up in it.
+
+_20th May, 1872._--Better. Very cold winds. The cattle of the Batusi
+were captured by the Arabs to prevent them going off with the Baganda:
+my four amongst them. I sent over for them and they were returned this
+morning. Thirty-five of Mohamad's slaves died of small-pox.
+
+_21st May, 1872._--The genuine Africans of this region have flattened
+nose-bridges; the higher grades of the tribes have prominent
+nose-bridges, and are on this account greatly admired by the Arabs. The
+Batusi here, the Balunda of Casembe, and Itawa of Nsama, and many
+Manyuema have straight noses, but every now and then you come to
+districts in which the bridgeless noses give the air of the low English
+bruiser class, or faces inclining to King Charles the Second's spaniels.
+The Arab progeny here have scanty beards, and many grow to a very great
+height--tall, gaunt savages; while the Muscatees have prominent
+nose-bridges, good beards, and are polite and hospitable.
+
+I wish I had some of the assurance possessed by others, but I am
+oppressed with the apprehension that after all it may turn out that I
+have been following the Congo; and who would risk being put into a
+cannibal pot, and converted into black man for it?
+
+_22nd May, 1872._--Baganga are very black, with a tinge of copper colour
+in some. Bridgeless noses all.
+
+_23rd May, 1872._--There seems but little prospect of Christianity
+spreading by ordinary means among Mohamadans. Their pride is a great
+obstacle, and is very industriously nurtured by its votaries. No new
+invention or increase of power on the part of Christians seems to
+disturb the self-complacent belief that ultimately all power and
+dominion in this world will fall into the hands of Moslems. Mohamad will
+appear at last in glory, with all his followers saved by him. When Mr.
+Stanley's Arab boy from Jerusalem told the Arab bin Saleh that he was a
+Christian, he was asked, "Why so, don't you know that all the world will
+soon be Mohamadan? Jerusalem is ours; all the world is ours, and in a
+short time we shall overcome all." Theirs are great expectations!
+
+A family of ten Whydah birds _(Vidua purpurea)_ come to the
+pomegranate-trees in our yard. The eight young ones, full-fledged, are
+fed by the dam, as young pigeons are. The food is brought up from the
+crop without the bowing and bending of the pigeon. They chirrup briskly
+for food: the dam gives most, while the redbreasted cock gives one or
+two, and then knocks the rest away.
+
+_24th May, 1872._--Speke at Kasengé islet inadvertently made a general
+statement thus: "The mothers of these savage people have infinitely less
+affection than many savage beasts of my acquaintance. I have seen a
+mother bear, galled by frequent shots, obstinately meet her death by
+repeatedly returning under fire whilst endeavouring to rescue her young
+from the grasp of intruding men. But here, for a simple loin-cloth or
+two, human mothers eagerly exchanged their little offspring, delivering
+them into perpetual bondage to my Beluch soldiers."--_Speke_, pp. 234,5.
+For the sake of the little story of "a bear mother," Speke made a
+general assertion on a very small and exceptional foundation. Frequent
+inquiries among the most intelligent and far-travelled Arabs failed to
+find confirmation of this child-selling, except in the very rare case of
+a child cutting the upper front teeth before the under, and because this
+child is believed to be "moiko" (_unlucky_), and certain to bring death
+into the family. It is called an Arab child, and sold to the first Arab,
+or even left at his door. This is the only case the Arabs know of
+child-selling. Speke had only two Beluch soldiers with him, and the idea
+that they loaded themselves with infants, at once stamps the tale as
+fabulous. He may have seen one sold, an extremely rare and exceptional
+case; but the inferences drawn are just like that of the Frenchman who
+thought the English so partial to suicide in November, that they might
+be seen suspended from trees in the common highways.
+
+In crossing Tanganyika three several times I was detained at the islet
+Kasengé about ten weeks in all. On each occasion Arab traders were
+present, all eager to buy slaves, but none were offered, and they
+assured me that they had never seen the habit alleged to exist by Speke,
+though they had heard of the "unlucky" cases referred to. Everyone has
+known of poor little foundlings in England, but our mothers are not
+credited with less affection than she-bears.
+
+I would say to missionaries, Come on, brethren, to the real heathen. You
+have no idea how brave you are till you try. Leaving the coast tribes,
+and devoting yourselves heartily to the savages, as they are called, you
+will find, with some drawbacks and wickednesses, a very great deal to
+admire and love. Many statements made about them require confirmation.
+You will never see women selling their infants: the Arabs never did, nor
+have I. An assertion of the kind was made by mistake.
+
+Captive children are often sold, but not by their mothers. Famine
+sometimes reduces fathers to part with them, but the selling of
+children, as a general practice, is quite unknown, and, as Speke put it,
+quite a mistake.
+
+_25th and 26th May, 1872._--Cold weather. Lewalé sends for all Arabs to
+make a grand assault, as it is now believed that Mirambo is dead, and
+only his son, with few people, remains.
+
+Two Whydah birds, after their nest was destroyed several times, now try
+again in another pomegranate-tree in the yard. They put back their eggs,
+as they have the power to do, and build again.
+
+The trout has the power of keeping back the ova when circumstances are
+unfavourable to their deposit. She can quite absorb the whole, but
+occasionally the absorbents have too much to do; the ovarium, and
+eventually the whole abdomen, seems in a state of inflammation, as when
+they are trying to remove a mortified human limb; and the poor fish,
+feeling its strength leaving it, true to instinct, goes to the entrance
+to the burn where it ought to have spawned, and, unable to ascend, dies.
+The defect is probably the want of the aid of a milter.
+
+_27th May, 1872._--Another pair of the kind (in which the cock is
+redbreasted) had ten chickens, also rebuilds afresh. The red cock-bird
+feeds all the brood. Each little one puts his head on one side as he
+inserts his bill, chirruping briskly, and bothering him. The young ones
+lift up a feather as a child would a doll, and invite others to do the
+same, in play. So, too, with another pair. The cock skips from side to
+side with a feather in his bill, and the hen is pleased: nature is full
+of enjoyment. Near Kasanganga's I saw boys shooting locusts that settled
+on the ground with little bows and arrows.
+
+Cock Whydah bird died in the night. The brood came and chirruped to it
+for food, and tried to make it feed them, as if not knowing death!
+
+A wagtail dam refused its young a caterpillar till it had been
+killed--she ran away from it, but then gave it when ready to be
+swallowed. The first smile of an infant with its toothless gums is one
+of the pleasantest sights in nature. It is innocence claiming kinship,
+and asking to be loved in its helplessness.
+
+_28th May, 1872._--Many parts of this interior land present most
+inviting prospects for well-sustained efforts of private benevolence.
+Karagué, for instance, with its intelligent friendly chief Rumainyika
+(Speke's Rumanika), and Bouganda, with its teeming population, rain, and
+friendly chief, who could easily be swayed by an energetic prudent
+missionary. The evangelist must not depend on foreign support other
+than an occasional supply of beads and calico; coffee is indigenous, and
+so is sugar-cane. When detained by ulcerated feet in Manyuema I made
+sugar by pounding the cane in the common wooden mortar of the country,
+squeezing out the juice very hard and boiling it till thick; the defect
+it had was a latent acidity, for which I had no lime, and it soon all
+fermented. I saw sugar afterwards at Ujiji made in the same way, and
+that kept for months. Wheat and rice are cultivated by the Arabs in all
+this upland region; the only thing a missionary needs in order to secure
+an abundant supply is to follow the Arab advice as to the proper season
+for sowing. Pomegranates, guavas, lemons and oranges are abundant in
+Unyanyembé; mangoes flourish, and grape vines are beginning to be
+cultivated; papaws grow everywhere. Onions, radishes, pumpkins and
+watermelons prosper, and so would most European vegetables, if the
+proper seasons were selected for planting, and the most important point
+attended to in bringing the seeds. These must never be soldered in tins
+or put in close boxes; a process of sweating takes place when they are
+confined, as in a box or hold of the ship, and the power of vegetating
+is destroyed, but garden seeds put up in common brown paper, and hung in
+the cabin on the voyage, and not exposed to the direct rays of the sun
+afterwards, I have found to be as good as in England.
+
+It would be a sort of Robinson Crusoe life, but with abundant materials
+for surrounding oneself with comforts, and improving the improvable
+among the natives. Clothing would require but small expense: four suits
+of strong tweed served me comfortably for five years. Woollen clothing
+is the best; if all wool, it wears long and prevents chills. The
+temperature here in the beginning of winter ranges from 62° to 75° Fahr.
+In summer it seldom goes above 84°, as the country generally is from
+3600 to 4000 feet high. Gently undulating plains with outcropping
+tree-covered granite hills on the ridges and springs in valleys will
+serve as a description of the country.
+
+_29th May, 1872._--Halima ran away in a quarrel with Ntaoéka: I went
+over to Sultan bin Ali and sent a note after her, but she came back of
+her own accord, and only wanted me to come outside and tell her to
+enter. I did so, and added, "You must not quarrel again." She has been
+extremely good ever since I got her from Katombo or Moene-mokaia: I
+never had to reprove her once. She is always very attentive and clever,
+and never stole, nor would she allow her husband to steal. She is the
+best spoke in the wheel; this her only escapade is easily forgiven, and
+I gave her a warm cloth for the cold, by way of assuring her that I had
+no grudge against her. I shall free her, and buy her a house and garden
+at Zanzibar, when we get there.[20] Smokes or haze begins, and birds,
+stimulated by the cold, build briskly.
+
+_30th May, 1872, Sunday._--Sent over to Sultan bin Ali, to write another
+note to Lewalé, to say first note not needed.
+
+_31st May, 1872._--The so-called Arab war with Mirambo drags its slow
+length along most wearily. After it is over then we shall get Banyamwezi
+pagazi in abundance. It is not now known whether Mirambo is alive or
+not: some say that he died long ago, and his son keeps up his state
+instead.
+
+In reference to this Nile source I have been kept in perpetual doubt and
+perplexity. I know too much to be positive. Great Lualaba, or Lualubba,
+as Manyuema say, may turn out to be the Congo and Nile, a shorter river
+after all--the fountains flowing north and south seem in favour of its
+being the Nile. Great westing is in favour of the Congo. It would be
+comfortable to be positive like Baker. "Every drop from the passing
+shower to the roaring mountain torrent must fall into Albert Lake, a
+giant at its birth." How soothing to be positive.
+
+_1st June, 1872._--Visited by Jemadar Hamees from Katanga, who gives the
+following information.
+
+UNYANYEMBÉ, _Tuesday_.--Hamees bin Jumaadarsabel, a Beluch, came here
+from Katanga to-day. He reports that the three Portuguese traders, Jão,
+Domasiko, and Domasho, came to Katanga from Matiamvo. They bought
+quantities of ivory and returned: they were carried in Mashilahs[21] by
+slaves. This Hamees gave them pieces of gold from the rivulet there
+between the two copper or malachite hills from which copper is dug. He
+says that Tipo Tipo is now at Katanga, and has purchased much ivory from
+Kayomba or Kayombo in Rua. He offers to guide me thither, going first to
+Meréré's, where Amran Masudi has now the upper hand, and Meréré offers
+to pay all the losses he has caused to Arabs and others. Two letters
+were sent by the Portuguese to the East Coast, one is in Amran's hands.
+Hamees Wodin Tagh is alive and well. These Portuguese went nowhere from
+Katanga, so that they have not touched the sources of the Nile, for
+which I am thankful.
+
+Tipo Tipo has made friends with Merosi, the Monyamwezé headman at
+Katanga, by marrying his daughter, and has formed the plan of assaulting
+Casembe in conjunction with him because Casembe put six of Tipo Tipo's
+men to death. He will now be digging gold at Katanga till this man
+returns with gunpowder.
+
+[Many busy calculations are met with here which are too involved to be
+given in detail. At one point we see a rough conjecture as to the length
+of the road through Fipa.]
+
+On looking at the projected route by Meréré's I seethat it will be a
+saving of a large angle into Fipa = 350 into Basango country S.S.W. or
+S. and by W., this comes into Lat. 10' S., and from this W.S.W. 400' to
+Long. of Katanga, skirting Bangweolo S. shore in 12° S. = the whole
+distance = 750', say 900'.
+
+[Further on we see that he reckoned on his work occupying him till
+1874.]
+
+If Stanley arrived the 1st of May at Zanzibar:--allow = 20 days to get
+men and settle with them = May 20th, men leave Zanzibar 22nd of May =
+now 1st of June.
+
+    On the road may be                      10 days
+    Still to come 30 days, June             30   "
+                                            --
+    Ought to arrive 10th or 15th of July    40   "
+
+14th of June = Stanley being away now 3 months; say he left Zanzibar
+24th of May = at Aden 1st of June = Suez 8th of June, near Malta 14th of
+June.
+
+Stanley's men may arrive in July next. Then engage pagazi half a month =
+August, 5 months of this year will remain for journey, the whole of 1873
+will be swallowed up in work, but in February or March, 1874, please the
+Almighty Disposer of events, I shall complete my task and retire.
+
+_2nd June, 1872._--A second crop here, as in Angola. The lemons and
+pomegranates are flowering and putting out young fruits anew, though the
+crops of each have just been gathered. Wheat planted a month ago is now
+a foot high, and in three months will be harvested. The rice and dura
+are being reaped, and the hoes are busy getting virgin land ready.
+Beans, and Madagascar underground beans, voandzeia and ground-nuts are
+ripe now. Mangoes are formed; the weather feels cold, min. 62°, max.
+74°, and stimulates the birds to pair and build, though they are of
+broods scarcely weaned from being fed by their parents. Bees swarm and
+pass over us. Sky clear, with fleecy clouds here and there.
+
+_7th June, 1872._--Sultan bin Ali called. He says that the path by Fipa
+is the best, it has plenty of game, and people are friendly.[22] By
+going to Amran I should get into the vicinity of Meréré, and possibly be
+detained, as the country is in a state of war. The Beluch would
+naturally wish to make a good thing of me, as he did of Speke. I gave
+him a cloth and arranged the Sungomazé beads, but the box and beads
+weigh 140 lbs., or two men's loads. I visited Lewalé. Heard of Baker
+going to Unyoro Water, Lake Albert. Lewalé praises the road by
+Moeneyungo and Meréré, and says he will give a guide, but he never went
+that way.
+
+_10th June, 1872._--Othman, our guide from Ujiji hither, called to-day,
+and says positively that the way by Fipa is decidedly the shortest and
+easiest: there is plenty of game, and the people are all friendly. He
+reports that Mirambo's headman, Merungwé, was assaulted and killed, and
+all his food, cattle, and grain used. Mirambo remains alone. He has, it
+seems, inspired terror in the Arab and Banyamwezi mind by his charms,
+and he will probably be allowed to retreat north by flight, and the war
+for a season close; if so, we shall get plenty of Banyamwezi pagazi, and
+be off, for which I earnestly long and pray.
+
+_13th June, 1872._--Sangara, one of Mr. Stanley's men, returned from
+Bagamoio, and reports that my caravan is at Ugogo. He arrived to-day,
+and reports that Stanley and the American Consul acted like good
+fellows, and soon got a party of over fifty off, as he heard while at
+Bagamoio, and he left. The main body, he thinks, are in Ugogo. Hecame
+on with the news, but the letters were not delivered to him. I do most
+fervently thank the good Lord of all for His kindness to me through
+these gentlemen. The men will come here about the end of this month.
+Bombay happily pleaded sickness as an excuse for not re-engaging, as
+several others have done. He saw that I got a clear view of his
+failings, and he could not hope to hoodwink me.
+
+After Sangara came, I went over to Kukuru to see what the Lewalé had
+received, but he was absent at Tabora. A great deal of shouting, firing
+of guns, and circumgyration by the men who had come from the war just
+outside the stockade of Nkisiwa (which is surrounded by a hedge of dark
+euphorbia and stands in a level hollow) was going on as we descended the
+gentle slope towards it. Two heads had been put up as trophies in the
+village, and it was asserted that Marukwé, a chief man of Mirambo, had
+been captured at Uvinza, and his head would soon come too. It actually
+did come, and was put up on a pole.
+
+I am most unfeignedly thankful that Stanley and Webb have acted nobly.
+
+_14th June, 1872._--On 22nd June Stanley was 100 days gone: he must be
+in London now.
+
+Seyed bin Mohamad Margibbé called to say that he was going off towards
+Katanga to-morrow by way of Amran. I feel inclined to go by way of Fipa
+rather, though I should much like to visit Meréré. By the bye, he says
+too that the so-called Portuguese had filed teeth, and are therefore
+Mambarré.
+
+_15th June, 1872._--Lewalé doubts Sangara on account of having brought
+no letters. Nothing can be believed in this land unless it is in black
+and white, and but little even then; the most circumstantial details are
+often mere figments of the brain. The one half one hears may safely be
+called false, and the other half doubtful or _not proven._
+
+Sultan bin Ali doubts Sangara's statements also, but says, "Let us wait
+and see the men arrive, to confirm or reject them." I incline to belief,
+because he says that he did not see the men, but heard of them at
+Bagamoio.
+
+_16th June, 1872._--Nsaré chief, Msalala, came selling from Sakuma on
+the north--a jocular man, always a favourite with the ladies. He offered
+a hoe as a token of friendship, but I bought it, as we are, I hope, soon
+going off, and it clears the tent floor and ditch round it in wet
+weather.
+
+Mirambo made a sortie against a headman in alliance with the Arabs, and
+was quite successful, which shows that he is not so much reduced as
+reports said.
+
+Boiling points to-day about 9 A.M. There is a full degree of difference
+between boiling in an open pot and in Casella's apparatus.
+
+    205°.1 open pot  }
+                     }  69° air.
+    206°.1 Casella   }
+
+About 200 Baguha came here, bringing much ivory and palm oil for sale
+because there is no market nor goods at Ujiji for the produce. A few
+people came also from Buganda, bringing four tusks and an invitation to
+Seyed Burghash to send for two housefuls of ivory which Mtéza has
+collected.
+
+_18th June, 1872._--Sent over a little quinine to Sultan bin Ali--he is
+ailing of fever--and a glass of "Moiko" the shameful!
+
+The Ptolemaic map defines people according to their food. The
+Elephantophagi, the Struthiophagi, the Ichthyophagi, and Anthropophagi.
+If we followed the same sort of classification our definition would be
+the drink, thus:--the tribe of stout-guzzlers, the roaring
+potheen-fuddlers, the whisky-fishoid-drinkers, the vin-ordinaire
+bibbers, the lager-beer-swillers, and an outlying tribe of the brandy
+cocktail persuasion.
+
+[His keen enjoyment in noticing the habits of animals and birds serves
+a good purpose whilst waiting wearily and listening to disputed rumours
+concerning the Zanzibar porters. The little orphan birds seem to get on
+somehow or other; perhaps the Englishman's eye was no bad protection,
+and his pity towards the fledglings was a good lesson, we will hope, to
+the children around the Tembé at Kwihara--]
+
+_19th June, 1872._--Whydahs, though full fledged, still gladly take a
+feed from their dam, putting down the breast to the ground and cocking
+up the bill and chirruping in the most engaging manner and winning way
+they know. She still gives them a little, but administers a friendly
+shove off too. They all pick up feathers or grass, and hop from side to
+side of their mates, as if saying, "Come, let us play at making little
+houses." The wagtail has shaken her young quite off, and has a new nest.
+She warbles prettily, very much like a canary, and is extremely active
+in catching flies, but eats crumbs of bread-and-milk too. Sun-birds
+visit the pomegranate flowers and eat insects therein too, as well as
+nectar. The young whydah birds crouch closely together at night for
+heat. They look like a woolly ball on a branch. By day they engage in
+pairing and coaxing each other. They come to the same twig every night.
+Like children they try and lift heavy weights of feathers above their
+strength.
+
+[How fully he hoped to reach the hill from which he supposed the Nile to
+flow is shown in the following words written at this time:--]
+
+I trust in Providence still to help me. I know the four rivers Zambesi,
+Kafué, Luapula, and Lomamé, their fountains must exist in one region.
+
+An influential Muganda is dead of dysentery: no medicine had any effect
+in stopping the progress of the disease. This is much colder than his
+country. Another is blind from ophthalmia.
+
+Great hopes are held that the war which has lasted a full year will now
+be brought to a close, and Mirambo either be killed or flee. As he is
+undoubtedly an able man, his flight may involve much trouble and
+guerilla warfare.
+
+Clear cold weather, and sickly for those who have only thin clothing,
+and not all covered.
+
+The women work very hard in providing for their husbands' kitchens. The
+rice is the most easily prepared grain: three women stand round a huge
+wooden mortar with pestles in their hands, a gallon or so of the
+unhusked rice--called Mopunga here and paddy in India--is poured in, and
+the three heavy pestles worked in exact time; each jerks up her body as
+she lifts the pestle and strikes it into the mortar with all her might,
+lightening the labour with some wild ditty the while, though one hears
+by the strained voice that she is nearly out of breath. When the husks
+are pretty well loosened, the grain is put into a large plate-shaped
+basket and tossed so as to bring the chaff to one side, the vessel is
+then heaved downwards and a little horizontal motion given to it which
+throws the refuse out; the partially cleared grain is now returned to
+the mortar, again pounded and cleared of husks, and a semicircular toss
+of the vessel sends all the remaining unhusked grain to one side, which
+is lifted out with the hand, leaving the chief part quite clean: they
+certainly work hard and well. The maize requires more labour by far: it
+is first pounded to remove the outer scales from the grain, then steeped
+for three days in water, then pounded, the scales again separated by the
+shallow-basket tossings, then pounded fine, and the fine white flour
+separated by the basket from certain hard rounded particles, which are
+cooked as a sort of granular porridge--"Mtyéllé."
+
+When Ntaoéka chose to follow us rather than go to the coast, I did not
+like to have a fine-looking woman among us unattached, and proposed that
+she should marry one of my three worthies, Chuma, Gardner, or Mabruki,
+but she smiled at the idea. Chuma was evidently too lazy ever to get a
+wife; the other two were contemptible in appearance, and she has a good
+presence and is buxom. Chuma promised reform: "he had been lazy, he
+admitted, because he had no wife." Circumstances led to the other women
+wishing Ntaoéka married, and on my speaking to her again she consented.
+I have noticed her ever since working hard from morning to night: the
+first up in the cold mornings, making fire and hot water, pounding,
+carrying water, wood, sweeping, cooking.
+
+_21st June, 1872._--No jugglery or sleight-of-hand, as was recommended
+to Napoleon III., would have any effect in the civilization of the
+Africans; they have too much good sense for that. Nothing brings them to
+place thorough confidence in Europeans but a long course of well-doing.
+They believe readily in the supernatural as effecting any new process or
+feat of skill, for it is part of their original faith to ascribe
+everything above human agency to unseen spirits. Goodness or
+unselfishness impresses their minds more than any kind of skill or
+power. They say, "You have different hearts from ours; all black men's
+hearts are bad, but yours are good." The prayer to Jesus for a new heart
+and right spirit at once commends itself as appropriate. Music has great
+influence on those who have musical ears, and often leads to conversion.
+
+[Here and there he gives more items of intelligence from the war which
+afford a perfect representation of the rumours and contradictions which
+harass the listener in Africa, especially if he is interested, as
+Livingstone was, in the re-establishment of peace between the
+combatants.]
+
+Lewalé is off to the war with Mirambo; he is to finish it now! A
+continuous fusilade along his line of march west will expend much
+powder, but possibly get the spirits up. If successful, we shall get
+Banyamwezi pagazi in numbers.
+
+Mirambo is reported to have sent 100 tusks and 100 slaves towards the
+coast to buy gunpowder. If true, the war is still far from being
+finished; but falsehood is fashionable.
+
+_26th June, 1872._--Went over to Kwikuru and engaged Mohamad bin Seyde
+to speak to Nkasiwa for pagazi; he wishes to go himself. The people sent
+by Mirambo to buy gunpowder in Ugogo came to Kitambi, he reported the
+matter to Nkasiwa that they had come, and gave them pombe. When Lewalé
+heard it, he said, "Why did Kitambi not kill them; he is a partaker in
+Mirambo's guilt?" A large gathering yesterday at M'futu to make an
+assault on the last stockade in hostility.
+
+[A few notes in another pocket-book are placed under this date. Thus:--]
+
+_24th June, 1872._--A continuous covering of forests is a sign of a
+virgin country. The earlier seats of civilization are bare and treeless
+according to Humboldt. The civilization of the human race sets bounds to
+the increase of forests. It is but recently that sylvan decorations
+rejoice the eyes of the Northern Europeans. The old forests attest the
+youthfulness of our civilization. The aboriginal woods of Scotland are
+but recently cut down. (Hugh Miller's _Sketches_, p. 7.)
+
+Mosses often evidence the primitive state of things at the time of the
+Roman invasion. Roman axe like African, a narrow chisel-shaped tool,
+left sticking in the stumps.
+
+The medical education has led me to a continual tendency to suspend the
+judgment. What a state of blessedness it would have been had I possessed
+the dead certainty of the homoeopathic persuasion, and as soon as I
+found the Lakes Bangweolo, Moero, and Kamolondo pouring out their waters
+down the great central valley, bellowed out, "Hurrah! Eureka!" and gone
+home in firm and honest belief that I had settled it, and no mistake.
+Instead of that I am even now not at all "cock-sure" that I have not
+been following down what may after all be the Congo.
+
+_25th June, 1872._--Send over to Tabora to try and buy a cow from
+Basakuma, or northern people, who have brought about 100 for sale. I got
+two oxen for a coil of brass wire and seven dotis of cloth.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[17] This elephant was subsequently sent by Dr. Kirk to Sir Philip
+Wodehouse, Governor of Bombay. When in Zanzibar it was perfectly tame.
+We understand it is now in the possession of Sir Solar Jung, to whom
+it was presented by Sir Philip Wodehouse.--Ed.
+
+[18] Lewalé appears to be the title by which the Governor of the town
+is called.
+
+[19] Judges xviii.
+
+[20] Halima followed the Doctor's remains to Zanzibar. It does seem
+hard that his death leaves her long services entirely unrequited.--ED.
+
+[21] The Portuguese name for palanquin.
+
+[22] It will be seen that this was fully confirmed afterwards by
+Livingstone's men: the fact may be of importance to future
+travellers.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower.
+
+
+[And now the long-looked for letters came in by various hands, but with
+little regularity. It is not here necessary to refer to the withdrawal
+of the Livingstone Relief Expedition which took place as soon as Mr.
+Stanley confronted Lieutenant Dawson on his way inland. Suffice it to
+say that the various members of this Expedition, of which his second
+son, Mr. Oswell Livingstone, was one, had already quitted Africa for
+England when these communications reached Unyanyembé.]
+
+_27th June, 1872._--Received a letter from Oswell yesterday, dated
+Bagamoio, 14th May, which awakened thankfulness, anxiety, and deep
+sorrow.
+
+_28th June, 1872._--Went over to Kwikuru yesterday to speak about
+pagazi. Nkasiwa was off at M'futu to help in the great assault on
+Mirambo, which is hoped to be the last. But Mohamad bin Seyed promised
+to arrange with the chief on his return. I was told that Nkasiwa has the
+head of Morukwé in a kirindo or band-box, made of the inner bark of a
+tree, and when Morukwé's people have recovered they will come and redeem
+it with ivory and slaves, and bury it in his grave, as they did the head
+of Ishbosheth in Abner's grave in Hebron.
+
+Dugumbé's man, who went off to Ujiji to bring ivory, returned to-day,
+having been attacked by robbers of Mirambo. The pagazi threw down all
+their loads and ran; none were killed, but they lost all.
+
+_29th June, 1872._--Received a packet from Sheikh bin Nasib containing a
+letter for him and one 'Pall Mall Gazette,' one Overland Mail and four
+Punches. Provision has been made for my daughter by Her Majesty's
+Government of 300_l._, but I don't understand the matter clearly.
+
+_2nd July, 1872._--Make up a packet for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Webb, of
+Zanzibar: explain to Kirk, and beg him to investigate and punish, and
+put blame on right persons. Write Sir Bartle Frere and Agnes: send large
+packet of astronomical observations and sketch map to Sir Thomas Maclear
+by a native, Suleiman.
+
+_3rd July, 1872._--Received a note from Oswell, written in April last,
+containing the sad intelligence of Sir Roderick's departure from among
+us. Alas! alas! this is the only time in my life I ever felt inclined to
+use the word, and it bespeaks a sore heart: the best friend I ever
+had--true, warm, and abiding--he loved me more than I deserved: he looks
+down on me still. I must feel resigned to the loss by the Divine Will,
+but still I regret and mourn.
+
+Wearisome waiting, this; and yet the men cannot be here before the
+middle or end of this month. I have been sorely let and hindered in this
+journey, but it may have been all for the best. I will trust in Him to
+whom I commit my way.
+
+_5th July, 1872._--Weary! weary!
+
+_7th July, 1872._--Waiting wearily here, and hoping that the good and
+loving Father of all may favour me, and help me to finish my work
+quickly and well.
+
+Temperature at 6 A.M. 61°; feels cold. Winds blow regularly from the
+east; if it changes to N.W. brings a thick mantle of cold grey clouds. A
+typhoon did great damage at Zanzibar, wrecking ships and destroying
+cocoa-nuts, carafu, and all fruits: happened five days after Seyed
+Burghash's return from Mecca.
+
+At the Loangwa of Zumbo we came to a party of hereditary hippopotamus
+hunters, called Makembwé or Akombwé. They follow no other occupation,
+but when their game is getting scanty at one spot they remove to some
+other part of the Loangwa, Zambesi, or Shiré, and build temporary huts
+on an island, where their women cultivate patches: the flesh of the
+animals they kill is eagerly exchanged by the more settled people for
+grain. They are not stingy, and are everywhere welcome guests. I never
+heard of any fraud in dealing, or that they had been guilty of an
+outrage on the poorest: their chief characteristic is their courage.
+Their hunting is the bravest thing I ever saw. Each canoe is manned by
+two men; they are long light craft, scarcely half an inch in thickness,
+about eighteen inches beam, and from eighteen to twenty feet long. They
+are formed for speed, and shaped somewhat like our racing boats. Each
+man uses a broad short paddle, and as they guide the canoe slowly down
+stream to a sleeping hippopotamus not a single ripple is raised on the
+smooth water; they look as if holding in their breath, and communicate
+by signs only. As they come near the prey the harpooner in the bow lays
+down his paddle and rises slowly up, and there he stands erect,
+motionless, and eager, with the long-handled weapon poised at arm's
+length above his head, till coming close to the beast he plunges it with
+all his might in towards the heart. During this exciting feat he has to
+keep his balance exactly. His neighbour in the stern at once backs his
+paddle, the harpooner sits down, seizes his paddle, and backs too to
+escape: the animal surprised and wounded seldom returns the attack at
+this stage of the hunt. The next stage, however, is full of danger.
+
+The barbed blade of the harpoon is secured by a long and very strong
+rope wound round the handle: it is intended to come out of its socket,
+and while the iron head is firmly fixed in the animal's body the rope
+unwinds and the handle floats on the surface. The hunter next goes to
+the handle and hauls on the rope till he knows that he is right over the
+beast: when he feels the line suddenly slacken he is prepared to deliver
+another harpoon the instant that hippo.'s enormous jaws appear with a
+terrible grunt above the water. The backing by the paddles is again
+repeated, but hippo. often assaults the canoe, crunches it with his
+great jaws as easily as a pig would a bunch of asparagus, or shivers it
+with a kick by his hind foot. Deprived of their canoe the gallant
+comrades instantly dive and swim to the shore under water: they say that
+the infuriated beast looks for them on the surface, and being below they
+escape his sight. When caught by many harpoons the crews of several
+canoes seize the handles and drag him hither and thither till, weakened
+by loss of blood, he succumbs.
+
+This hunting requires the greatest skill, courage, and nerve that can be
+conceived--double armed and threefold brass, or whatever the Æneid says.
+The Makombwé are certainly a magnificent race of men, hardy and active
+in their habits, and well fed, as the result of their brave exploits;
+every muscle is well developed, and though not so tall as some tribes,
+their figures are compact and finely proportioned: being a family
+occupation it has no doubt helped in the production of fine physical
+development. Though all the people among whom they sojourn would like
+the profits they secure by the flesh and curved tusks, and no game is
+preserved, I have met with no competitors to them except the Wayeiye of
+Lake Ngami and adjacent rivers.
+
+I have seen our dragoon officers perform fencing and managing their
+horses so dexterously that every muscle seemed trained to its fullest
+power and efficiency, and perhaps had they been brought up as Makombwé
+they might have equalled their daring and consummate skill: but we have
+no sport, except perhaps Indian tiger shooting, requiring the courage
+and coolness this enterprise demands. The danger may be appreciated if
+one remembers that no sooner is blood shed in the water than all the
+crocodiles below are immediately drawn up stream by the scent, and are
+ready to act the part of thieves in a London crowd, or worse.
+
+_8th July, 1872._--At noon, wet bulb 66°, dry 74°. These observations
+are taken from thermometers hung four feet from the ground on the cool
+side (south) of the house, and beneath an earthen roof with complete
+protection from wind and radiation. Noon known by the shadows being
+nearly perpendicular. To show what is endured by a traveller, the
+following register is given of the heat on a spot, four feet from the
+ground, protected from the wind by a reed fence, but exposed to the
+sun's rays, slanting a little.
+
+
+    Noon.   Wet Bulb 78°   Dry Bulb 102°
+    2 P.M.           77°             99°
+    3 P.M.           78°            102°
+    4 P.M.           72°             88° (Agreeable marching now.)
+    6 P.M.           66°             77°
+
+_9th July, 1872._--Clear and cold the general weather: cold is
+penetrating. War forces have gone out of M'futu and built a camp. Fear
+of Mirambo rules them all: each one is nervously anxious not to die, and
+in no way ashamed to own it. The Arabs keep out of danger: "Better to
+sleep in a whole skin" is their motto.
+
+_Noon_.--Spoke to Singeri about the missionary reported to be coming:
+he seems to like the idea of being taught and opening up the country by
+way of the Nile. I told him that all the Arabs confirmed Mtesa's
+cruelties, and that his people were more to blame than he: it was guilt
+before God. In this he agreed fully, but said, "What Arab was killed?"
+meaning, if they did not suffer how can they complain?
+
+    6 A.M.  Wet Bulb 55°   Dry Bulb  57° min. 55°
+    9 A.M.           74°             82°
+    Noon.            74°             98° (Now becomes too hot to march.)
+    3.30 P.M.        75°             90°
+
+_10th July, 1872._
+
+    6 A.M.           59°             65° min. 55°
+    Noon.            67°             77° shady.
+    3 P.M.           69°             81° cloudy.
+    5 P.M.           65°             75° cloudy.
+
+_10th July, 1872._--No great difficulty would be encountered in
+establishing a Christian Mission a hundred miles or so from the East
+Coast. The permission of the Sultan of Zanzibar would be necessary,
+because all the tribes of any intelligence claim relationship, or have
+relations with him; the Banyamwezi even call themselves his subjects,
+and so do others. His permission would be readily granted, if
+respectfully applied for through the English Consul. The Suaheli, with
+their present apathy on religious matters, would be no obstacle. Care to
+speak politely, and to show kindness to them, would not be lost labour
+in the general effect of the Mission on the country, but all discussion
+on the belief of the Moslems should be avoided; they know little about
+it. Emigrants from Muscat, Persia, and India, who at present possess
+neither influence nor wealth, would eagerly seize any formal or
+offensive denial of the authority of their Prophet to fan their own
+bigotry, and arouse that of the Suaheli. A few now assume an air of
+superiority in matters of worship, and would fain take the place of
+Mullams or doctors of the law, by giving authoritative dicta as to the
+times of prayer; positions to be observed; lucky and unlucky days; using
+cabalistic signs; telling fortunes; finding from the Koran when an
+attack may be made on any enemy, &c.; but this is done only in the field
+with trading parties. At Zanzibar, the regular Mullams supersede them.
+
+No objection would be made to teaching the natives of the country to
+read their own languages in the Roman character. No Arab has ever
+attempted to teach them the Arabic-Koran, they are called _guma_, hard,
+or difficult as to religion. This is not wonderful, since the Koran is
+never translated, and a very extraordinary desire for knowledge would be
+required to sustain a man in committing to memory pages and chapters of,
+to him, unmeaning gibberish. One only of all the native chiefs,
+Monyumgo, has sent his children to Zanzibar to be taught to read and
+write the Koran; and he is said to possess an unusual admiration of such
+civilization as he has seen among the Arabs. To the natives, the chief
+attention of the Mission should be directed. It would not be desirable,
+or advisable, to refuse explanation to others; but I have avoided giving
+offence to intelligent Arabs, who have pressed me, asking if I believed
+in Mohamad by saying, "No I do not: I am a child of Jesus bin Miriam,"
+avoiding anything offensive in my tone, and often adding that Mohamad
+found their forefathers bowing down to trees and stones, and did good to
+them by forbidding idolatry, and teaching the worship of the only One
+God. This, they all know, and it pleases them to have it recognised.
+
+It might be good policy to hire a respectable Arab to engage free
+porters, and conduct the Mission to the country chosen, and obtain
+permission from the chief to build temporary houses. If this Arab were
+well paid, it might pave the way for employing others to bring supplies
+of goods and stores not produced in the country, as tea, coffee, sugar.
+The first porters had better all go back, save a couple or so, who have
+behaved especially well. Trust to the people among whom you live for
+general services, as bringing wood, water, cultivation, reaping, smith's
+work, carpenter's work, pottery, baskets, &c. Educated free blacks from
+a distance are to be avoided: they are expensive, and are too much of
+gentlemen for your work. You may in a few months raise natives who will
+teach reading to others better than they can, and teach you also much
+that the liberated never know. A cloth and some beads occasionally will
+satisfy them, while neither the food, the wages, nor the work will
+please those who, being brought from a distance, naturally consider
+themselves missionaries. Slaves also have undergone a process which has
+spoiled them for life; though liberated young, everything of childhood
+and opening life possesses an indescribable charm. It is so with our own
+offspring, and nothing effaces the fairy scenes then printed on the
+memory. Some of my liberados eagerly bought green calabashes and
+tasteless squash, with fine fat beef, because this trash was their early
+food; and an ounce of meat never entered their mouths. It seems
+indispensable that each Mission should raise its own native agency. A
+couple of Europeans beginning, and carrying on a Mission without a staff
+of foreign attendants, implies coarse country fare, it is true, but this
+would be nothing to those who, at home amuse themselves with fastings,
+vigils, &c. A great deal of power is thus lost in the Church. Fastings
+and vigils, without a special object in view, are time run to waste.
+They are made to minister to a sort of self-gratification, instead of
+being turned to account for the good of others. They are like groaning
+in sickness. Some people amuse themselves when ill with continuous
+moaning. The forty days of Lent might be annually spent in visiting
+adjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable hunger and thirst with a good
+grace. Considering the greatness of the object to be attained, men
+might go without sugar, coffee, tea, &c. I went from September 1866 to
+December 1868 without either. A trader, at Casembe's, gave me a dish
+cooked with honey, and it nauseated from its horrible sweetness, but at
+100 miles inland, supplies could be easily obtained.
+
+The expenses need not be large. Intelligent Arabs inform me that, in
+going from Zanzibar to Casembe's, only 3000 dollars' worth are required
+by a trader, say between 600_l._ or 700_l._, and he may be away three or
+more years; paying his way, giving presents to the chiefs, and filling
+200 or 300 mouths. He has paid for, say fifty muskets, ammunition,
+flints, and may return with 4000 lbs. of ivory, and a number of slaves
+for sale; all at an outlay of 600_l._ or 700_l._ With the experience I
+have gained now, I could do all I shall do in this expedition for a like
+sum, or at least for 1000_l._ less than it will actually cost me.
+
+_12th July, 1872._--Two men come from Syde bin Habib report fighting as
+going on at discreet distances against Mirambo.
+
+Sheikh But, son of Mohamad bin Saleh, is found guilty of stealing a tusk
+of 2-1/2 frasilahs from the Lewalé. He has gone in disgrace to fight
+Mirambo: his father is disconsolate, naturally. Lewalé has been
+merciful.
+
+When endeavouring to give some account of the slave-trade of East
+Africa, it was necessary to keep far within the truth, in order not to
+be thought guilty of exaggeration; but in sober seriousness the subject
+does not admit of exaggeration. To overdraw its evils is a simple
+impossibility. The sights I have seen, though common incidents of the
+traffic, are so nauseous that I always strive to drive them from memory.
+In the case of most disagreeable recollections I can succeed, in time,
+in consigning them to oblivion, but the slaving scenes come back
+unbidden, and make me start up at dead of night horrified by their
+vividness. To some this may appear weak and unphilosophical, since it is
+alleged that the whole human race has passed through the process of
+development. We may compare cannibalism to the stone age, and the times
+of slavery to the iron and bronze epochs--slavery is as natural a step
+in human development as from bronze to iron.
+
+Whilst speaking of the stone age I may add that in Africa I have never
+been fortunate enough to find one flint arrowhead or any other flint
+implement, though I had my eyes about me as diligently as any of my
+neighbours. No roads are made; no lands levelled; no drains digged; no
+quarries worked, nor any of the changes made on the earth's surface that
+might reveal fragments of the primitive manufacture of stone. Yet but
+little could be inferred from the negative evidence, were it not
+accompanied by the fact that flint does not exist in any part south of
+the equator. Quartz might have been used, but no remains exist, except
+the half-worn millstones, and stones about the size of oranges, used for
+chipping and making rough the nether millstone. Glazed pipes and
+earthenware used in smelting iron, show that iron was smelted in the
+remotest ages in Africa. These earthenware vessels, and fragments of
+others of a finer texture, were found in the delta of the Zambesi and in
+other parts in close association with fossil bones, which, on being
+touched by the tongue, showed as complete an absence of animal matter as
+the most ancient fossils known in Europe. They were the bones of
+animals, as hippopotami, water hogs, antelopes, crocodiles, identical
+with those now living in the country. These were the primitive fauna of
+Africa, and if vitrified iron from the prodigious number of broken
+smelting furnaces all over the country was known from the remotest
+times, the Africans seem to have had a start in the race, at a time when
+our progenitors were grubbing up flints to save a miserable existence by
+the game they might kill. Slave-trading seems to have been coeval with
+the knowledge of iron. The monuments of Egypt show that this curse has
+venerable antiquity. Some people say, "If so ancient, why try to stop
+an old established usage now?" Well, some believe that the affliction
+that befel the most ancient of all the patriarchs, Job, was small-pox.
+Why then stop the ravages of this venerable disease in London and New
+York by vaccination?
+
+But no one expects any benevolent efforts from those who cavil and carp
+at efforts made by governments and peoples to heal the enormous open
+sore of the world. Some profess that they would rather give "their mite"
+for the degraded of our own countrymen than to "niggers"! Verily it is
+"a mite," and they most often forget, and make a gift of it to
+themselves. It is almost an axiom that those who do most for the heathen
+abroad are most liberal for the heathen at home. It is to this class we
+turn with hope. With others arguments are useless, and the only answer I
+care to give is the remark of an English sailor, who, on seeing
+slave-traders actually at their occupation, said to his companion,
+"Shiver my timbers, mate, if the devil don't catch these fellows, we
+might as well have no devil at all."
+
+In conversing with a prince at Johanna, one of the Comoro islands lying
+off the north end of Madagascar, he took occasion to extol the wisdom of
+the Arabs in keeping strict watch over their wives. On suggesting that
+their extreme jealousy made them more like jailers than friends of their
+wives, or, indeed, that they thus reduced themselves to the level of the
+inferior animals, and each was like the bull of a herd and not like a
+reasonable man--"fuguswa"--and that they gave themselves a vast deal of
+trouble for very small profit; he asserted that the jealousy was
+reasonable because all women were bad, they could not avoid going
+astray. And on remarking that this might be the case with Arab women,
+but certainly did not apply to English women, for though a number were
+untrustworthy, the majority deserved all the confidence their husbands
+could place in them, he reiterated that women were universally bad. He
+did not believe that women ever would be good; and the English allowing
+their wives to gad about with faces uncovered, only showed their
+weakness, ignorance, and unwisdom.
+
+The tendency and spirit of the age are more and more towards the
+undertaking of industrial enterprises of such magnitude and skill as to
+require the capital of the world for their support and execution--as the
+Pacific Railroad, Suez Canal, Mont Cenis Tunnel, and railways in India
+and Western Asia, Euphrates Railroad, &c. The extension and use of
+railroads, steamships, telegraphs, break down nationalities and bring
+peoples geographically remote into close connection commercially and
+politically. They make the world one, and capital, like water, tends to
+a common level.
+
+[Geologists will be glad to find that the Doctor took pains to arrange
+his observations at this time in the following form.]
+
+A really enormous area of South Central Africa is covered with volcanic
+rocks, in which are imbedded angular fragments of older strata, possibly
+sandstone, converted into schist, which, though carried along in the
+molten mass, still retain impressions of plants of a low order, probably
+the lowest--Silurian--and distinct ripple marks and raindrops in which
+no animal markings have yet been observed. The fewness of the organic
+remains observed is owing to the fact that here no quarries are worked,
+no roads are made, and as we advance north the rank vegetation covers up
+everything. The only stone buildings in the country north of the Cape
+colony are the church and mission houses at Kuruman. In the walls there
+the fragments, with impressions of fossil leaves, have been broken
+through in the matrix, once a molten mass of lava. The area which this
+basalt covers extends from near the Vaal River in the south, to a point
+some sixty miles beyond the Victoria Falls, and the average breadth is
+about 150 miles. The space is at least 100,000 square miles. Sandstone
+rocks stand up in it at various points like islands, but all are
+metamorphosed, and branches have flowed off from the igneous sea into
+valleys and defiles, and one can easily trace the hardening process of
+the fire as less and less, till at the outer end of the stream the rocks
+are merely hardened. These branches equal in size all the rocks and
+hills that stand like islands, so that we are justified in assuming the
+area as at least 100,000 square miles of this basaltic sea.
+
+The molten mass seems to have flowed over in successive waves, and the
+top of each wave was covered with a dark vitreous scum carrying scoriæ
+with angular fragments. This scum marks each successive overflow, as a
+stratum from twelve to eighteen inches or more in thickness. In one part
+sixty-two strata are revealed, but at the Victoria Falls (which are
+simply a rent) the basaltic rock is stratified as far as our eyes could
+see down the depth of 310 feet. This extensive sea of lava was probably
+sub-aerial, because bubbles often appear as coming out of the rock into
+the vitreous scum on the surface of each wave: in some cases they have
+broken and left circular rings with raised edges, peculiar to any
+boiling viscous fluid. In many cases they have cooled as round pustules,
+as if a bullet were enclosed; on breaking them the internal surface is
+covered with a crop of beautiful crystals of silver with their heads all
+directed to the centre of the bubble, which otherwise is empty.
+
+These bubbles in stone may be observed in the bed of the Kuruman River,
+eight or ten miles north of the village; and the mountain called
+"Amhan," west-north-west of the village, has all the appearance of
+having been an orifice through which the basalt boiled up as water or
+mud does in a geyser.
+
+The black basaltic mountains on the east of the Bamangwato, formerly
+called the Bakaa, furnish further evidence of the igneous eruptions
+being sub-aerial, for the basalt itself is columnar at many points, and
+at other points the tops of the huge crystals appear in groups, and the
+apices not flattened, as would have been the case had they been
+developed under the enormous pressure of an ocean. A few miles on their
+south a hot salt fountain boils forth and tells of interior heat.
+Another, far to the south-east, and of fresh water, tells the same tale.
+
+Subsequently to the period of gigantic volcanic action, the outflow of
+fresh lime-water from the bowels of the earth seems to have been
+extremely large. The land now so dry that one might wander in various
+directions (especially westwards, to the Kalahari), and perish for lack
+of the precious fluid as certainly as if he were in the interior of
+Australia, was once bisected in all directions by flowing streams and
+great rivers, whose course was mainly to the south. These river beds are
+still called by the natives "_melapo_" in the south, but in the north
+"_wadys_," both words meaning the same thing, "river beds in which no
+water ever now flows." To feed these a vast number of gushing fountains
+poured forth for ages a perennial supply. When the eye of the fountain
+is seen it is an oval or oblong orifice, the lower portion distinctly
+water worn, and there, by diminished size, showing that as ages elapsed
+the smaller water supply had a manifestly lesser erosive power. In the
+sides of the mountain Amhan, already mentioned, good specimens of these
+water-worn orifices still exist, and are inhabited by swarms of bees,
+whose hives are quite protected from robbers by the hardness of the
+basaltic rocks. The points on which the streams of water fell are
+hollowed by its action, and the space around which the water splashed is
+covered by calcareous tufa, deposited there by the evaporation of the
+sun.
+
+Another good specimen of the ancient fountains is in a cave near
+Kolobeng, called "_Lepélolé_," a word by which the natives there
+sometimes designate the sea. The wearing power of the primeval waters is
+here easily traced in two branches--the upper or more ancient ending in
+the characteristic oval orifice, in which I deposited a Father Mathew's
+leaden temperance token: the lower branch is much the largest, as that
+by which the greatest amount of water flowed for a much longer period
+than the other. The cave Lepélolé was believed to be haunted, and no one
+dared to enter till I explored it as a relief from more serious labour.
+The entrance is some eight or more feet high, and five or six wide, in
+reddish grey sandstone rock, containing in its substance banks of well
+rounded shingle. The whole range, with many of the adjacent hills on the
+south, bear evidence of the scorching to which the contiguity of the
+lava subjected them. In the hardening process the silica was sometimes
+sweated out of this rock, and it exists now as pretty efflorescences of
+well-shaped crystals. But not only does this range, which stands eight
+or ten miles north of Kolobeng, exhibit the effects of igneous action,
+it shows on its eastern slope the effects of flowing water, in a large
+pot-hole called Löe, which has the reputation of having given exit to all
+the animals in South Africa, and also to the first progenitors of the
+whole Bechuana race. Their footsteps attest the truth of this belief. I
+was profane enough to be sceptical, because the large footstep of the
+first man Matsieng was directed as if going into instead of out of this
+famous pot-hole. Other huge pot-holes are met with all over the country,
+and at heights on the slopes of the mountains far above the levels of
+the ancient rivers.
+
+Many fountains rose in the courses of the ancient river beds, and the
+outflow was always in the direction of the current of the parent stream.
+Many of these ancient fountains still contain water, and form the stages
+on a journey, but the primitive waters seem generally to have been laden
+with lime in solution: this lime was deposited in vast lakes, which are
+now covered with calcareous tufa. One enormous fresh-water lake, in
+which probably sported the Dyconodon, was let off when the remarkable
+rent was made in the basalt which now constitutes the Victoria Falls.
+Another seems to have gone to the sea when a similar fissure was made at
+the falls of the Orange River. It is in this calcareous tufa alone that
+fossil animal remains have yet been found. There are no marine
+limestones except in friths which the elevation of the west and east
+coasts have placed far inland in the Coanza and Somauli country, and
+these contain the same shells as now live in the adjacent seas.
+
+Antecedently to the river system, which seems to have been a great
+southern Nile flowing from the sources of the Zambesi away south to the
+Orange River, there existed a state of fluvial action of greater
+activity than any we see now: it produced prodigious beds of
+well-rounded shingle and gravel. It is impossible to form an idea of
+their extent. The Loangwa flows through the bed of an ancient lake,
+whose banks are sixty feet thick, of well-rounded shingle. The Zambesi
+flows above the Kebrabasa, through great beds of the same formation, and
+generally they are of hard crystalline rocks; and it is impossible to
+conjecture what the condition of the country was when the large
+pot-holes were formed up the hillsides, and the prodigious attrition
+that rounded the shingle was going on. The land does not seem to have
+been submerged, because marine limestones (save in the exceptional cases
+noted) are wanting; and torrents cutting across the ancient river beds
+reveal fresh-water shells identical with those that now inhabit its
+fresh waters. The calcareous tufa seems to be the most recent rock
+formed. At the point of junction of the great southern prehistoric Nile
+with an ancient fresh-water lake near Buchap, and a few miles from
+Likatlong, a mound was formed in an eddy caused by some conical lias
+towards the east bank of this rent within its bed, and the dead animals
+were floated into the eddy and sank; their bones crop out of the white
+tufa, and they are so well preserved that even the black tartar on
+buffalo and zebra's teeth remain: they are of the present species of
+animals that now inhabit Africa. This is the only case of fossils of
+these animals being found _in situ_. In 1855 I observed similar fossils
+in banks of gravel in transitu all down the Zambesi above Kebrabasa; and
+about 1862 a bed of gravel was found in the delta with many of the same
+fossils that had come to rest in the great deposit of that river, but
+where the Zambesi digs them out is not known. In its course below the
+Victoria Falls I observed tufaceous rocks: these must contain the bones,
+for were they carried away from the great tufa Lake bottom of Seshéké,
+down the Victoria Falls, they would all be ground into fine silt. The
+bones in the river and in the delta were all associated with pieces of
+coarse pottery, exactly the same as the natives make and use at the
+present day: with it we found fragments of a fine grain, only
+occasionally seen among Africans, and closely resembling ancient
+cinerary urns: none were better baked than is customary in the country
+now. The most ancient relics are deeply worn granite, mica-schist, and
+sandstone millstones; the balls used for chipping and roughing them, of
+about the shape and size of an orange, are found lying near them. No
+stone weapons or tools ever met my eyes, though I was anxious to find
+them, and looked carefully over every ancient village we came to for
+many years. There is no flint to make celts, but quartz and rocks having
+a slaty cleavage are abundant. It is only for the finer work that they
+use iron tongs, hammers, and anvils and with these they turn out work
+which makes English blacksmiths declare Africans never did. They are
+very careful of their tools: indeed, the very opposites to the flint
+implement men, who seem sometimes to have made celts just for the
+pleasure of throwing them away: even the Romans did not seem to know the
+value of their money.
+
+The ancient Africans seem to have been at least as early as the
+Asiatics in the art of taming elephants. The Egyptian monuments show
+them bringing tame elephants and lions into Egypt; and very ancient
+sculptures show the real African species, which the artist must have
+seen. They refused to sell elephants, which cost them months of hard
+labour to catch and tame, to a Greek commander of Egyptian troops for a
+few brass pots: they were quite right. Two or three tons of fine fat
+butcher-meat were far better than the price, seeing their wives could
+make any number of cooking pots for nothing.
+
+_15th July, 1872._--Reported to-day that twenty wounded men have been
+brought into M'futu from the field of fighting. About 2000 are said to
+be engaged on the Arab side, and the side of Mirambo would seem to be
+strong, but the assailants have the disadvantage of firing against a
+stockade, and are unprotected, except by ant-hills, bushes, and ditches
+in the field. I saw the first kites to-day: one had spots of white
+feathers on the body below, as if it were a young one--probably come
+from the north.
+
+_17th July, 1872._--Went over to Sultan bin Ali yesterday. Very kind, as
+usual; he gave me guavas and a melon--called "matanga." It is reported
+that one of Mirambo's chief men, Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealed
+holes, which acted like Bruce's "craw-taes" at Bannockburn, and wounded
+several, probably the twenty reported. This has induced the Arabs to
+send for a cannon they have, with which to batter Mirambo at a distance.
+The gun is borne past us this morning: a brass 7-pounder, dated 1679.
+Carried by the Portuguese Commander-in-Chief to China 1679, or 193 years
+ago--and now to beat Mirambo, by Arabs who have very little interest in
+the war.
+
+Some of his people, out prowling two days ago, killed a slave. The war
+is not so near an end as many hoped.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Mtesa's people on their way back to Uganda were stuck fast at
+Unyanyembé the whole of this time: it does not appear at all who the
+missionary was to whom he refers.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Lewalé sends off the Baganda in a great hurry, after detaining them for
+six months or more till the war ended, and he now gets pagazi of
+Banyamwezi for them. This haste (though war is not ended) is probably
+because Lewalé has heard of a missionary through me.
+
+Mirambo fires now from inside the stockade alone.
+
+_19th July, 1872._--Visited Salim bin Seff, and was very hospitably
+entertained. He was disappointed that I could not eat largely. They live
+very comfortably: grow wheat, whilst flour and fruits grace their board.
+Salim says that goat's flesh at Zanzibar is better than beef, but here
+beef is better than goat's flesh. He is a stout, jolly fellow.
+
+_20th July, 1872._--High cold winds prevail. Temperature, 6 A.M., 57°;
+noon, on the ground, 122°. It may be higher, but I am afraid to risk the
+thermometer, which is graduated to 140° only.
+
+_21st July, 1872._--Bought two milch cows (from a Motusi), which, with
+their calves, were 17 dotis or 34 fathoms. The Baganda are packing up to
+leave for home. They take a good deal of brandy and gin for Mtesa from
+the Moslems. Temperature at noon, 96°.
+
+Another nest of wagtails flown. They eat bread crumbs. The whydahs are
+busy pairing. Lewalé returns to-day from M'futu on his own private
+business at Kwikuru. The success of the war is a minor consideration
+with all. I wish my men would come, and let me off from this weary
+waiting.
+
+Some philosophising is curious. It represents our Maker forming the
+machine of the universe: setting it a-going, and able to do nothing more
+outside certain of His own laws. He, as it were, laid the egg of the
+whole, and, like an ostrich, left it to be hatched by the sun. We can
+control laws, but He cannot! A fire set to this house would consume it,
+but we can throw on water and consume the fire. We control the elements,
+fire and water: is He debarred from doing the same, and more, who has
+infinite wisdom and knowledge? He surely is greater than His own laws.
+Civilization is only what has been done with natural laws. Some foolish
+speculations in morals resemble the idea of a Muganda, who said last
+night, that if Mtesa didn't kill people now and then, his subjects would
+suppose that he was dead!
+
+_23rd July, 1872._--The departure of the Baganda is countermanded, for
+fear of Mirambo capturing their gunpowder.
+
+Lewalé interdicts them from going; he says, "You may go, but leave all
+the gunpowder here, because Mirambo will follow and take it all to fight
+with us." This is an afterthought, for he hurried them to go off. A few
+will go and take the news and some goods to Mtesa, and probably a lot of
+Lewalé's goods to trade at Karagwé.
+
+The Baganda are angry, for now their cattle and much of their property
+are expended here; but they say, "We are strangers, and what can we do
+but submit?" The Banyamwesi carriers would all have run away on the
+least appearance of danger. No troops are sent by Seyed Burghash, though
+they were confidently reported long ago. All trade is at a standstill.
+
+_24th July, 1872._--The Bagohé retire from the war. This month is
+unlucky. I visited Lewalé and Nkasiwa, putting a blister on the latter,
+for paralytic arm, to please him. Lewalé says that a general flight from
+the war has taken place. The excuse is hunger.
+
+He confirms the great damage done by a cyclone at Zanzibar to shipping,
+houses, cocoa-nut palms, mango-trees, and clove-trees, also houses and
+dhows, five days after Burghash returned. Sofeu volunteers to go with
+us, because Mohamad Bogharib never gave him anything, and Bwana Mohinna
+has asked him to go with him. I have accepted his offer, and will
+explain to Mohamad, when I see him, that this is what he promised me in
+the way of giving men, but never performed.
+
+_27th July, 1872._--At dawn a loud rumbling in the east as if of
+thunder, possibly a slight earthquake; no thunder-clouds visible.
+
+Bin Nassib came last night and visited me before going home to his own
+house; a tall, brown, polite Arab. He says that he lately received a
+packet for Mr. Stanley from the American Consul, sealed in tin, and sent
+it back: this is the eleventh that came to Stanley. A party of native
+traders who went with the Baganda were attacked by Mirambo's people, and
+driven back with the loss of all their goods and one killed. The
+fugitives returned this morning sorely downcast. A party of twenty-three
+loads left for Karagwé a few days ago, and the leader alone has
+returned; he does not know more than that one was killed. Another was
+slain on this side of M'futu by Mirambo's people yesterday, the country
+thus is still in a terribly disturbed state. Sheikh bin Nassib says that
+the Arabs have rooted out fifty-two headmen who were Mirambo's allies.
+
+_28th July, 1872._--To Nkasiwa; blistered him, as the first relieved the
+pain and pleased him greatly; hope he may derive benefit.
+
+Cold east winds, and clouded thickly over all the sky.
+
+_29th July, 1872._--Making flour of rice for the journey. Visited Sheikh
+bin Nassib, who has a severe attack of fever; he cannot avoid going to
+the war. He bought a donkey with the tusk he stole from Lewalé, and it
+died yesterday; now Lewalé says, "Give me back my tusk;" and the Arab
+replies, "Give me back my donkey." The father must pay, but his son's
+character is lost as well as the donkey. Bin Nassib gave me a present of
+wheaten bread and cakes.
+
+_30th July, 1872._--Weary waiting this, and the best time for travelling
+passes over unused. High winds from the east every day bring cold, and,
+to the thinly-clad Arabs, fever. Bin Omari called: goes to Katanga with
+another man's goods to trade there.
+
+_31st July, 1872._--We heard yesterday from Sahib bin Nassib that the
+caravan of his brother Kisessa was at a spot in Ugogo, twelve days off.
+My party had gone by another route. Thankful for even this in my
+wearisome waiting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Short years in Baganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. Higher
+    mountains. Large bay.
+
+
+_1st August, 1872._--A large party of Baganda have come to see what is
+stopping the way to Mtesa, about ten headmen and their followers; but
+they were told by an Arab in Usui that the war with Mirambo was over.
+About seventy of them come on here to-morrow, only to be despatched back
+to fetch all the Baganda in Usui, to aid in fighting Mirambo. It is
+proposed to take a stockade near the central one, and therein build a
+battery for the cannon, which seems a wise measure. These arrivals are a
+poor, slave-looking people, clad in bark-cloth, "Mbuzu," and having
+shields with a boss in the centre, round, and about the size of the
+ancient Highlanders' targe, but made of reeds. The Baganda already here
+said that most of the new-comers were slaves, and would be sold for
+cloths. Extolling the size of Mtesa's country, they say it would take a
+year to go across it. When I joked them about it, they explained that a
+year meant five months, three of rain, two of dry, then rain again. Went
+over to apply medicine to Nkasiwa's neck to heal the outside; the
+inside is benefited somewhat, but the power will probably remain
+incomplete, as it now is.
+
+_3rd August, 1872._--Visited Salem bin Seff, who is ill of fever. They
+are hospitable men. Called on Sultan bin Ali and home. It is he who
+effected the flight of all the Baganda pagazi, by giving ten strings of
+beads to Motusi to go and spread a panic among them by night; all
+bolted.
+
+_4th August, 1872._--Wearisome waiting, and the sun is now rainy at
+mid-day, and will become hotter right on to the hot season in November,
+but this delay may be all for the best.
+
+_5th August, 1872._--Visited Nkasiwa, and recommended shampooing the
+disabled limbs with oil or flour. He says that the pain is removed. More
+Baganda have come to Kwihara, and will be used for the Mirambo war.
+
+In many parts one is struck by the fact of the children having so few
+games. Life is a serious business, and amusement is derived from
+imitating the vocations of the parents--hut building, making little
+gardens, bows and arrows, shields and spears. Elsewhere boys are very
+ingenious little fellows, and have several games; they also shoot birds
+with bows, and teach captured linnets to sing. They are expert in making
+guns and traps for small birds, and in making and using bird-lime. They
+make play guns of reed, which go off with a trigger and spring, with a
+cloud of ashes for smoke. Sometimes they make double-barrelled guns of
+clay, and have cotton-fluff as smoke. The boys shoot locusts with small
+toy guns very cleverly. A couple of rufous, brown-headed, and dirty
+speckle-breasted swallows appeared to-day for the first time this
+season, and lighted on the ground. This is the kind that builds here in
+houses, and as far south as Shupanga, on the Zambesi, and at Kuraman.
+Sun-birds visit a mass of spiders' web to-day; they pick out the young
+spiders. Nectar is but part of their food. The insects in or at the
+nectar could not be separated, and hence have been made an essential
+part of their diet. On closer inspection, however, I see that whilst
+seeming to pick out young spiders--and they probably do so--they end in
+detaching the outer coating of spiders' web from the inner stiff paper
+web, in order to make a nest between the two. The outer part is a thin
+coating of loose threads: the inner is tough paper, impervious web, just
+like that which forms the wasps' hive, but stronger. The hen brings fine
+fibres and places them round a hole 1-1/2 inch in diameter, then works
+herself in between the two webs and brings cotton to line the inside
+formed by her body.
+
+--What is the atonement of Christ? It is Himself: it is the inherent
+and everlasting mercy of God made apparent to human eyes and ears. The
+everlasting love was disclosed by our Lord's life and death. It showed
+that God forgives, because He loves to forgive. He works by smiles if
+possible, if not by frowns; pain is only a means of enforcing love.
+
+If we speak of strength, lo! He is strong. The Almighty; the Over Power;
+the Mind of the Universe. The heart thrills at the idea of His
+greatness.
+
+--All the great among men have been remarkable at once for the grasp
+and minuteness of their knowledge. Great astronomers seem to know every
+iota of the Knowable. The Great Duke, when at the head of armies, could
+give all the particulars to be observed in a cavalry charge, and took
+care to have food ready for all his troops. Men think that greatness
+consists in lofty indifference to all trivial things. The Grand Llama,
+sitting in immovable contemplation of nothing, is a good example of what
+a human mind would regard as majesty; but the Gospels reveal Jesus, the
+manifestation of the blessed God over all as minute in His care of all.
+He exercises a vigilance more constant, complete, and comprehensive,
+every hour and every minute, over each of His people than their utmost
+selflove could ever attain. His tender love is more exquisite than a
+mother's heart can feel.
+
+_6th August, 1872._--Wagtails begin to discard their young, which feed
+themselves. I can think of nothing but "when will these men come?" Sixty
+days was the period named, now it is eighty-four. It may be all for the
+best, in the good Providence of the Most High.
+
+_9th August, 1872._--I do most devoutly thank the Lord for His goodness
+in bringing my men near to this. Three came to-day, and how thankful I
+am I cannot express. It is well--the men who went with Mr. Stanley came
+again to me. "Bless the Lord, my soul, and all that is within me, bless
+His holy name." Amen.
+
+_10th August, 1872._--Sent back the three men who came from the Safari,
+with 4 dotis and 3 lbs. of powder. Called on the Lewalé to give the news
+as a bit of politeness; found that the old chief Nksiwa had been bumped
+by an ox, and a bruise on the ribs may be serious at his age: this is
+another delay from the war. It is only half-heartedly that anyone goes.
+
+[At last this trying suspense was put an end to by the arrival of a
+troop of fifty-seven men and boys, made up of porters hired by Mr.
+Stanley on the coast, and some more Nassick pupils sent from Bombay to
+join Lieut. Dawson. We find the names of John and Jacob Wainwright
+amongst the latter on Mr. Stanley's list.
+
+Before we incorporate these new recruits on the muster-roll of Dr.
+Livingstone's servants, it seems right to point to five names which
+alone represented at this time the list of his original followers; these
+were Susi, Chuma, and Amoda, who joined him in 1864 on the Zambesi, that
+is eight years previously, and Mabruki and Gardner, Nassick boys hired
+in 1866. We shall see that the new comers by degrees became accustomed
+to the hardships of travel, and shared with the old servants all the
+danger of the last heroic march home. Nor must we forget that it was to
+the intelligence and superior education of Jacob Wainwright (whom we now
+meet with for the first time) that we were indebted for the earliest
+account of the eventful eighteen months during which he was attached to
+the party.
+
+And now all is pounding, packing, bargaining, weighing, and disputing
+amongst the porters. Amidst the inseparable difficulties of an African
+start, one thankful heart gathers, comfort and courage:--]
+
+_15th August, 1872._--The men came yesterday (14th), having been
+seventy-four days from Bagamoio. Most thankful to the Giver of all good
+I am. I have to give them a rest of a few days, and then start.
+
+_16th August, 1872._--An earthquake--"Kiti-ki-sha!"--about 7.0 P.M.
+shook me in my katanda with quick vibrations. They gradually became
+fainter: it lasted some 50 seconds, and was observed by many.
+
+_17th August, 1872._--Preparing things.
+
+_18th August, 1872._--Fando to be avoided as extortionate. Went to bid
+adieu to Sultan bin Ali, and left goods with him for the return journey,
+and many cartridges full and empty, nails for boat, two iron pillars,
+&c.[23]
+
+_19th August, 1872._--Waiting for pagazi. Sultan bin Ali called; is
+going off to M'futu._20th August, 1872._--Weighed all the loads again,
+and gave an equal load of 50 lbs. to each, and half loads to the
+Nassickers. Mabruki Speke is left at Taborah with Sultan bin Ali. He has
+long been sick, and is unable to go with us.
+
+_21st August, 1872._--Gave people an ox, and to a discarded wife a
+cloth, to avoid exposure by her husband stripping her. She is somebody's
+child!
+
+_22nd August, 1872._--Sunday. All ready, but ten pagazi lacking.
+
+_23rd August, 1872._--Cannot get pagasi. Most are sent off to the war.
+
+[At last the start took place. It is necessary to mention that Dr.
+Livingstone's plan in all his travels was to make one short stage the
+first day, and generally late in the afternoon. This, although nothing
+in point of distance, acted like the drill-sergeant's "Attention!" The
+next morning everyone was ready for the road, clear of the town,
+unencumbered with parting words, and by those parting pipes, of terrible
+memory to all hurrying Englishmen in Africa!]
+
+_25th August, 1872._--Started and went one hour to village of Manga or
+Yuba by a granite ridge; the weather clear, and a fine breeze from the
+east refreshes. It is important to give short marches at first. Marched
+1-1/4 hour.
+
+_26th August, 1872._--Two Nassickers lost a cow out of ten head of
+cattle. Marched to Borna of Mayonda. Sent back five men to look after
+the cow. Cow not found: she was our best milker.
+
+_27th August, 1872._--Started for Ebulua and Kasekéra of Mamba. Cross
+torrent, now dry, and through forest to village of Ebulua; thence to
+village of Kasekéra, 3-1/2 hours. Direction, S. by W.
+
+_28th August, 1872._--Reached Mayolé village in 2 hours and rested; S.
+and by W. Water is scarce in front. Through flat forest to a
+marshy-looking piece of water, where we camp, after a march of 1-1/2
+hour; still S. by W.
+
+_29th August, 1872._--On through level forest without water. Trees
+present a dry, wintry aspect; grass dry, but some flowers shoot out, and
+fresh grass where the old growth has been burnt off.
+
+_30th August, 1872._--The two Nassickers lost all the cows yesterday,
+from sheer laziness. They were found a long way off, and one cow
+missing. Susi gave them ten cuts each with a switch. Engaging pagazi and
+rest.
+
+_31st August, 1872._--The Baganda boy Kassa was followed to Gunda, and I
+delivered him to his countrymen. He escaped from Mayolé village this
+morning, and came at 3 P.M., his clothes in rags by running through the
+forest eleven hours, say twenty-two miles, and is determined not to
+leave us. Pass Kisari's village, one and a half mile distant, and on to
+Penta or Phintá to sleep, through perfectly flat forest. 3 hours S. by
+W.
+
+_1st September, 1872._--The same flat forest to Chikulu, S. and by W., 4
+hours 25 m. Manyara called, and is going with us to-morrow. Jangiangé
+presented a leg of Kongolo or Taghetsé, having a bunch of white hair
+beneath the orbital sinus. Bought food and served out rations to the men
+for ten days, as water is scarce, and but little food can be obtained at
+the villages. The country is very dry and wintry-looking, but flowers
+shoot out. First clouds all over to-day. It is hot now. A flock of small
+swallows now appears: they seem tailless and with white bellies.
+
+_2nd September, 1872._--The people are preparing their ten days' food.
+Two pagazi ran away with 24 dotis of the men's calico. Sent after them,
+but with small hopes of capturing them.
+
+_3rd September, 1872._--Unsuccessful search.
+
+_4th September, 1872._--Leave Chikulu's, and pass a large puff-adder in
+the way. A single blow on the head killed it, so that it did not stir.
+About 3 feet long, and as thick as a man's arm, a short tail, and flat
+broad head. The men say this is a very good sign for our journey, though
+it would have been a bad sign, and suffering and death, had one trodden
+on it. Come to Liwané; large tree and waters. S.S.W. 4-1/2 hours.
+
+_5th September, 1872._--A long hot tramp to Manyara's. He is a kind old
+man. Many of the men very tired and sick. S.S.W. 5-3/4 hours.
+
+_6th September, 1872._--Rest the caravan, as we shall have to make
+forced marches on account of tsetse fly.
+
+_7th September, 1872._--Obliged to remain, as several are ill with
+fever.
+
+_8th September, 1872._--On to N'gombo nullah. Very hot and people ill.
+Tsetse. A poor woman of Ujiji followed one of Stanley's men to the
+coast. He cast her off here, and she was taken by another; but her
+temper seems too excitable. She set fire to her hut by accident, and in
+the excitement quarrelled all round; she is a somebody's bairn
+nevertheless, a tall, strapping young woman, she must have been the
+pride of her parents.
+
+_9th September, 1872._--Telekéza[24] at broad part of the nullah, then
+went on two hours and passed the night in the forest.
+
+_10th September, 1872._--On to Mwéras, and spent one night there by a
+pool in the forest. Village two miles off.
+
+_11th September, 1872._--On 8-1/2 hours to Telekéza. Sun very hot, and
+marching fatiguing to all.
+
+Majwara has an insect in the aqueous chamber of his eye. It moves about
+and is painful.
+
+We found that an old path from Mwaro has water, and must go early
+to-morrow morning, and so avoid the roundabout by Morefu. We shall thus
+save two days, which in this hot weather is much for us. We hear that
+Simba has gone to fight with Fipa. Two Banyamwezi volunteer. _12th
+September, 1872._--We went by this water till 2 P.M., then made a march,
+and to-morrow get to villages. Got a buffalo and remain overnight. Water
+is in hæmatite. I engaged four pagazi here, named Motepatonzé, Nsakusi,
+Muanamazungu, and Mayombo.
+
+_15th September, 1872._--On to near range of hills. Much large game
+here. Ill.
+
+_16th September, 1872._--Climbed over range about 200 feet high; then on
+westward to stockaded villages of Kamirambo. His land begins at the
+M'toni.
+
+_17th September, 1872._--To Metambo River: 1-1/4 broad, and marshy. Here
+begins the land of Méréra. Through forest with many strychnus trees,
+3-1/4 hours, and arrive at Méréra's.
+
+_18th September, 1872._--Remain at Méréra's to prepare food.
+
+[There is a significant entry here: the old enemy was upon him. It would
+seem that his peculiar liability during these travels to one prostrating
+form of disease was now redoubled. The men speak of few periods of even
+comparative health from this date.]
+
+_19th September, 1872._--Ditto, ditto, because I am ill with bowels,
+having eaten nothing for eight days. Simba wants us to pass by his
+village, and not by the straight path.
+
+_20th September, 1872._--Went to Simba's; 3-1/2 hours. About north-west.
+Simba sent a handsome present of food, a goat, eggs, and a fowl, beans,
+split rice, dura, and sesame. I gave him three dotis of superior cloth.
+
+_21st September, 1872._--Rest here, as the complaint does not yield to
+medicine or time; but I begin to eat now, which is a favourable symptom.
+Under a lofty tree at Simba's, a kite, the common brown one, had two
+pure white eggs in its nest, larger than a fowl's, and very spherical.
+The Banyamwesi women are in general very coarse, not a beautiful woman
+amongst them, as is so common among the Batusi; squat, thick-set
+figures, and features too; a race of pagazi. On coming inland from
+sea-coast, the tradition says, they cut the end of a cone shell, so as
+to make it a little of the half-moon shape; this is their chief
+ornament. They are generally respectful in deportment, but not very
+generous; they have learned the Arab adage, "Nothing for nothing," and
+are keen slave-traders. The gingerbread palm of Speke is the _Hyphene_;
+the Borassus has a large seed, very like the Coco-de-mer of the
+Seychelle Islands, in being double, but it is very small compared to it.
+
+_22nd September, 1872._--Preparing food, and one man pretends inability
+to walk; send for some pagazi to carry loads of those who carry him.
+Simba sends copious libations of pombe.
+
+_23rd September, 1872._--The pagazi, after demanding enormous pay,
+walked off. We went on along rocky banks of a stream, and, crossing it,
+camped, because the next water is far off.
+
+_24th September, 1872._--Recovering and thankful, but weak; cross broad
+sedgy stream, and so on to Boma Misonghi, W. and by S.
+
+_25th September, 1872._--Got a buffalo and M'juré, and remain to eat
+them. I am getting better slowly. The M'juré, or water hog, was all
+eaten by hyænas during night; but the buffalo is safe.
+
+_26th September, 1872._--Through forest, along the side of a sedgy
+valley. Cross its head water, which has rust of iron in it, then W.
+and by S. The forest has very much tsetse. Zebras calling loudly, and
+Senegal long claw in our camp at dawn, with its cry,
+"O-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o."
+
+_27th September, 1872._--On at dawn. No water expected, but we crossed
+three abundant supplies before we came to hill of our camp. Much game
+about here. Getting well again--thanks. About W. 3-3/4 hours. No people,
+or marks of them. Flowers sprouting in expectation of rains; much land
+burned off, but grass short yet.
+
+_28th September, 1872._--At two hills with mushroom-topped trees on
+west side. Crossed a good stream 12 feet broad and knee deep.
+
+Buffaloes grazing. Many of the men sick. Whilst camping, a large musk
+cat broke forth among us and was killed. (Ya bude--musk). Musk cat
+(N'gawa), black with white stripes; from point of nose to tip of tail, 4
+feet; height at withers, 1 foot 6 inches.
+
+_29th September, 1872._--Through much bamboo and low hills to M'pokwa
+ruins and river. The latter in a deep rent in alluvial soil. Very hot,
+and many sick in consequence. Sombala fish abundant. Course W.
+
+_30th September, 1872._--Away among low tree-covered hills of granite
+and sandstone. Found that Bangala had assaulted the village to which we
+went a few days ago, and all were fugitives. Our people found plenty of
+Batatas[25] in the deserted gardens. A great help, for all were hungry.
+
+_1st October, 1872, Friday_--On through much deserted cultivation in
+rich damp soil. Surrounded with low tree-covered ranges. We saw a few
+people, but all are in terror.
+
+_2nd October, 1872._--Obtained M'tama in abundance for brass wire, and
+remained to grind it. The people have been without any for some days,
+and now rejoice in plenty. A slight shower fell at 5 A.M., but not
+enough to lay the dust.
+
+_3rd October, 1872._--Southwards, and down a steep descent into a rich
+valley with much green maize in ear; people friendly; but it was but one
+hour's march, so we went on through hilly country S.W. Men firing off
+ammunition, had to be punished. We crossed the Katuma River in the
+bottom of a valley; it is 12 feet broad, and knee deep; camped in a
+forest. Farjella shot a fine buffalo. The weather disagreeably hot and
+sultry.
+
+_4th October, 1872._--Over the same hilly country; the grass is burnt
+off, but the stalks are disagreeable. Came to a fine valley with a large
+herd of zebras feeding quietly; pretty animals. We went only an hour and
+a half to-day, as one sick man is carried, and it is hot and trying for
+all. I feel it much internally, and am glad to more slowly.
+
+_5th October, 1872._--Up and down mountains, very sore on legs and
+lungs. Trying to save donkey's strength I climbed and descended, and as
+soon as I mounted, off he set as hard as he could run, and he felt not
+the bridle; the saddle was loose, but I stuck on till we reached water
+in a bamboo hollow with spring.
+
+_6th October, 1872._--A long bamboo valley with giraffes in it. Range on
+our right stretches away from us, and that on the left dwindled down;
+all covered with bamboos, in tufts like other grasses; elephants eat
+them. Travelled W. and by S. 2-3/4 hours. Short marches on account of
+carrying one sick man.
+
+_7th October, 1872._--Over fine park-like country, with large belts of
+bamboo and fine broad shady trees. Went westwards to the end of the
+left-hand range. Went four hours over a level forest with much hæmatite.
+Trees large and open. Large game evidently abounds, and waters generally
+are not far apart. Our neighbour got a zebra, a rhinoceros, and two
+young elephants.
+
+_8th October, 1872._--Came on early as sun is hot, and in two hours saw
+the Tanganyika from a gentle hill. The land is rough, with angular
+fragments of quartz; the rocks of mica schist are tilted up as if away
+from the Lake's longer axis. Some are upright, and some have basalt
+melted into the layers, and crystallized in irregular polygons. All are
+very tired, and in coming to a stockade we were refused admittance,
+because Malongwana had attacked them lately, and we might seize them
+when in this stronghold. Very true; so we sit ontside in the shade of a
+single palm (Borassus).
+
+_9th October, 1872._--Rest, because all are tired, and several sick.
+This heat makes me useless, and constrains me to lie like a log.
+Inwardly I feel tired too. Jangeangé leaves us to-morrow, having found
+canoes going to Ujiji.
+
+_10th October, 1872._--People very tired, and it being moreover Sunday
+we rest. Gave each a keta of beads. Usowa chief Ponda.
+
+_11th October, 1872._--Reach Kalema district after 2-3/4 hours over
+black mud all deeply cracked, and many deep torrents now dry. Kalema is
+a stockade. We see Tanganyika, but a range of low hills intervenes. A
+rumour of war to-morrow.
+
+_12th October, 1872._--We wait till 2 P.M., and then make a forced march
+towards Fipa. The people cultivate but little, for fear of enemies; so
+we can buy few provisions. We left a broad valley with a sand river in
+it, where we have been two days, and climbed a range of hills parallel
+to Tanganyika, of mica schist and gneiss, tilted away from the Lake. We
+met a buffalo on the top of one ridge, it was shot into and lay down,
+but we lost it. Course S.W. to brink of Tanganyika water.
+
+_13th October, 1872._--Our course went along the top of a range of hills
+lying parallel with the Lake. A great part of yesterday was on the same
+range. It is a thousand feet above the water, and is covered with trees
+rather scraggy. At sunset the red glare on the surface made the water
+look like a sea of reddish gold; it seemed so near that many went off to
+drink, but were three or four hours in doing so. One cannot see the
+other side on account of the smokes in the air, but this morning three
+capes jut out, and the last bearing S.E. from our camp seems to go near
+the other side. Very hot weather. To the town of Fipa to-morrow. Course
+about S. Though we suffer much from the heat by travelling at this
+season, we escape a vast number of running and often muddy rills, also
+muddy paths which would soon knock the donkey up. A milk-and-water sky
+portends rain. Tipo Tipo is reported to be carrying it with a high hand
+in Nsama's country, Itawa, insisting that all the ivory must be brought
+as his tribute--the conqueror of Nsama. Our drum is the greatest object
+of curiosity we have to the Banyamwezi. A very great deal of cotton is
+cultivated all along the shores of Lake Tanganyika; it is the Pernambuco
+kind, with the seeds clinging together, but of good and long fibre, and
+the trees are left standing all the year to enable them to become large;
+grain and ground-nuts are cultivated between them. The cotton is
+manufactured into coarse cloth, which is the general clothing of all.
+
+_14th October, 1872._--Crossed two deep gullies with sluggish water in
+them, and one surrounding an old stockade. Camp on a knoll, overlooking
+modern stockade and Tanganyika very pleasantly. Saw two beautiful
+sultanas with azure blue necks. We might have come here yesterday, but
+were too tired. Mukembé land is ruled by chief Kariaria; village,
+Mokaria. Mount M'Pumbwé goes into the Lake. N'Tambwé Mount; village,
+Kafumfwé. Kapufi is the chief of Fipa.
+
+Noon, and about fifty feet above Lake; clouded over. Temperature 91°
+noon; 94° 3 P.M.
+
+_15th October, 1872._--Rest, and kill an ox. The dry heat is
+distressing, and all feel it sorely. I am right glad of the rest, but
+keep on as constantly as I can. By giving dura and maize to the donkeys,
+and riding on alternate days, they hold on; but I feel the sun more than
+if walking. The chief Kariaria is civil.
+
+_16th October, 1872._--Leave Mokaia and go south. We crossed several
+bays of Tanganyika, the path winding considerably. The people set fire
+to our camp as soon as we started.
+
+_17th October, 1872._--Leave a bay of Tanganyika, and go on to Mpimbwé;
+two lions growled savagely as we passed. Game is swarming here, but my
+men cannot shoot except to make a noise. We found many lepidosirens in a
+muddy pool, which a group of vultures were catching and eating. The men
+speared one of them, which had scales on; its tail had been bitten off
+by a cannibal brother: in length it was about two feet: there were
+curious roe-like portions near its backbone, yellow in colour; the flesh
+was good. We climbed up a pass at the east end of Mpimbwé mountain, and
+at a rounded mass of it found water.
+
+_18th October, 1872._--Went on about south among mountains all day till
+we came down, by a little westing, to the Lake again, where there were
+some large villages, well stockaded, with a deep gully half round them.
+Ill with my old complaint again. Bubwé is the chief here. Food dear,
+because Simba made a raid lately. The country is Kilando.
+
+_19th October, 1872._--Remained to prepare food and rest the people. Two
+islets, Nkoma and Kalengé, are here, the latter in front of us.
+
+_20th October, 1872._--We got a water-buck and a large buffalo, and
+remained during the forenoon to cut up the meat, and started at 2 P.M.
+
+Went on and passed a large arm of Tanganyika, having a bar of hills on
+its outer border. Country swarming with large game. Passed two bomas,
+and spent the night near one of them. Course east and then south.
+
+_21st October, 1872._--Mokassa, a Moganda boy, has a swelling of the
+ankle, which prevents his walking. We went one hour to find wood to make
+a litter for him. The bomas round the villages are plastered with mud,
+so as to intercept balls or arrows. The trees are all cut down for these
+stockades, and the flats are cut up with deep gullies. A great deal of
+cotton is cultivated, of which the people make their cloth. There is an
+arm of Tanganyika here called Kafungia.
+
+I sent a doti to the headman of the village, where we made the litter,
+to ask for a guide to take us straight south instead of going east to
+Fipa, which is four days off and out of our course. Tipo Tipo is said
+to be at Morero, west of Tanganyika.
+
+_22nd October, 1872._--Turned back westwards, and went through the hills
+down to some large islets in the Lake, and camped in villages destroyed
+by Simba. A great deal of cotton is cultivated here, about thirty feet
+above the Lake.
+
+_23rd October, 1872._--First east, and then passed two deep bays, at one
+of which we put up, as they had food to sell. The sides of the
+Tanganyika Lake are a succession of rounded bays, answering to the
+valleys which trend down to the shore between the numerous ranges of
+hills. In Lake Nyassa they seem made by the prevailing winds. We only
+get about one hour and a half south and by east. Rain probably fell last
+night, for the opposite shore is visible to-day. The mountain range of
+Banda slopes down as it goes south. This is the district of Motoshi.
+Wherever buffaloes are to be caught, falling traps are suspended over
+the path in the trees near the water.
+
+_24th October, 1872._--There are many rounded bays in mountainous Fipa.
+We rested two hours in a deep shady dell, and then came along a very
+slippery mountain-side to a village in a stockade. It is very hot
+to-day, and the first thunderstorm away in the east. The name of this
+village is Lindé.
+
+_25th October, 1872._--The coast runs south-south-east to a cape. We
+went up south-east, then over a high steep hill to turn to south again,
+then down into a valley of Tanganyika, over another stony side, and down
+to a dell with a village in it. The west coast is very plain to-day;
+rain must have fallen there.
+
+_26th October, 1872._--Over hills and mountains again, past two deep
+bays, and on to a large bay with a prominent islet on the south side of
+it, called Kitanda, from the chiefs name. There is also a rivulet of
+fine water of the same name here.
+
+_27th October, 1872._--Remained to buy food, which is very dear. We
+slaughtered a tired cow to exchange for provisions.
+
+_28th October, 1872._--Left Kitanda, and came round the cape, going
+south. The cape furthest north bore north-north-west. We came to three
+villages and some large spreading trees, where we were invited by the
+headman to remain, as the next stage along the shore is long. Morilo
+islet is on the other or western side, at the crossing-place. The people
+brought in a leopard in great triumph. Its mouth and all its claws were
+bound with grass and bands of bark, as if to make it quite safe, and its
+tail was curled round: drumming and lullilooing in plenty.
+
+The chief Mosirwa, or Kasamané, paid us a visit, and is preparing a
+present of food. One of his men was bitten by the leopard in the arm
+before he killed it. Molilo or Morilo islet is the crossing-place of
+Banyamwezi when bound for Casembe's country, and is near to the Lofuko
+River, on the western shore of the Lake. The Lake is about twelve or
+fifteen miles broad, at latitude 7° 52' south. Tipo Tipo is ruling in
+Itawa, and bound a chief in chains, but loosed him on being requested to
+do so by Syde bin Ali. It takes about three hours to cross at Morilo.
+
+_29th October, 1872._--Crossed the Thembwa Rivulet, twenty feet broad
+and knee deep, and sleep on its eastern bank. Fine cold water over stony
+bottom. The mountains now close in on Tanganyika, so there is no path
+but one, over which luggage cannot be carried. The stage after this is
+six hours up hill before we come to water. This forced me to stop after
+only a short crooked march of two and a quarter hours. We are now on the
+confines of Fipa. The next march takes us into Burungu.
+
+_30th October, 1872._--The highest parts of the mountains are from 500
+feet to 700 feet higher than the passes, say from 1300 feet to 1500 feet
+above the Lake. A very rough march to-day; one cow fell, and was
+disabled. The stones are collected in little heaps and rows, which
+shows that all these rough mountains were cultivated. We arrive at a
+village on the Lake shore. Kirila islet is about a quarter of a mile
+from the shore. The Megunda people cultivated these hills in former
+times. Thunder all the morning, and a few drops of rain fell. It will
+ease the men's feet when it does fall. They call out earnestly for it,
+"Come, come with hail!" and prepare their huts for it.
+
+_31st October, 1872._--Through a long pass after we had climbed over
+Winelao. Came to an islet one and a half mile long, called Kapessa, and
+then into a long pass. The population of Megunda must have been
+prodigious, for all the stones have been cleared, and every available
+inch of soil cultivated.
+
+The population are said to have been all swept away by the Matuta.
+
+Going south we came to a very large arm of the Lake, with a village at
+the end of it in a stockade. This arm is seven or eight miles long and
+about two broad. We killed a cow to-day, and found peculiar flat worms
+in the substance of the liver, and some that were rounded.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] Without entering into the merits of a disputed point as to
+whether the men on their return journey would have been brought to a
+standstill at Unyanyembé but for the opportune presence of Lieutenant
+Cameron and his party, it will be seen nevertheless that this entry
+fully bears out the assertion of the men that they had cloth laid by
+in store here for the journey to the coast.
+
+It seems that by an unfortunate mistake a box of desiccated milk, of
+which the Doctor was subsequently in great need, was left behind
+amongst these goods. The last words written by him will remind one of
+the circumstance. On their return the unlucky box was the first thing
+that met Susi's eye!--ED.
+
+[24] Midday halt.
+
+[25] Sweet potatoes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chituñkué's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country.
+
+
+_1st November, 1872._--We hear that an eruption of Babemba, on the
+Baulungu, destroyed all the food. We tried to buy food here, but
+everything is hidden in the mountains, so we have to wait to-day till
+they fetch it. If in time, we shall make an afternoon's march. Raining
+to-day. The Eiver Mulu from Chingolao gave us much trouble in crossing
+from being filled with vegetation: it goes into Tanganyika. Our course
+south and east.
+
+_2nd November, 1872._--Deceived by a guide, who probably feared his
+countrymen in front. Went round a stony cape, and then to a land-locked
+harbour, three miles long by two broad. Here was a stockade, where our
+guide absconded. They told us that if we continued our march we should
+not get water for four hours, so we rested, having marched four and a
+quarter hours.
+
+_3rd November, 1872._--We marched this morning to a village where food
+was reported. I had to punish two useless men for calling out, "Posho!
+posho! posho!" (rations) as soon as I came near. One is a confirmed
+bangé-smoker;[26]the blows were given slightly, but I promised that the
+next should be severe. The people of Liemba village having a cow or two,
+and some sheep and goats, eagerly advised us to go on to the next
+village, as being just behind a hill, and well provisioned. Four very
+rough hills were the penalty of our credulity, taking four hours of
+incessant toil in these mountain fastnesses. They hide their food, and
+the paths are the most difficult that can be found, in order to wear out
+their enemies. To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five and
+a half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice.
+
+_4th November, 1872._--All very tired. We tried to get food, but it is
+very dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably brought from
+Fipa. A rest will be beneficial to us.
+
+_5th November, 1872._--We went up a high mountain, but found that one of
+the cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to be
+slaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the people went
+down for water.
+
+_6th November, 1872._--Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steep
+mountain. Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb we look
+down on the Lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare floats over it.
+Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and looked sheer down 500 feet
+or 600 feet into its dark green waters. We saw three zebras and a young
+python here, and fine flowers.
+
+_7th November, 1872, Sunday._--Remained, but the headman forbade his
+people to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him to a parley,
+which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in defiance, as if he were
+inclined to fighting. At last, seeing that we took no notice of him, he
+sent us a present; I returned three times its value.
+
+_8th November, 1872._--The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climb
+the high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and they did
+it well. I then sent some to find a path out from the Lake mountains,
+for they will kill us all; others were despatched to buy food, but the
+Lake folks are poor except in fish.
+
+Swifts in flocks were found on the Lake when we came to it, and there
+are small migrations of swallows ever since. Though this is the very
+hottest time of year, and all the plants are burnt off or quite dried,
+the flowers persist in bursting out of the hot dry surface, generally
+without leaves. A purple ginger, with two yellow patches inside, is very
+lovely to behold, and it is alternated with one of a bright canary
+yellow; many trees, too, put on their blossoms. The sun makes the soil
+so hot that the radiation is as if it came from a furnace. It burns the
+feet of the people, and knocks them up. Subcutaneous inflammation is
+frequent in the legs, and makes some of my most hardy men useless. We
+have been compelled to slowness very much against my will. I too was
+ill, and became better only by marching on foot. Riding exposes one to
+the bad influence of the sun, while by walking the perspiration modifies
+beneficially the excessive heat. It is like the difference in effect of
+cold if one is in activity or sitting, and falling asleep on a
+stage-coach. I know ten hot fountains north of the Orange River; the
+further north the more hot and numerous they become.
+
+[Just here we find a note, which does not bear reference to anything
+that occurred at this time. Men, in the midst of their hard earnest
+toil, perceive great truths with a sharpness of outline and a depth of
+conviction which is denied to the mere idle theorist: he says:--]
+
+The spirit of Missions is the spirit of our Master: the very genius of
+His religion. A diffusive philanthropy is Christianity itself. It
+requires perpetual propagation to attest its genuineness.
+
+_9th November, 1872._--We got very little food, and kill a calf to fill
+our mouths a little. A path east seems to lead out from these mountains
+of Tanganyika. We went on east this morning in highland open forest,
+then descended by a long slope to a valley in which there is water. Many
+Milenga gardens, but the people keep out of sight. The highlands are of
+a purple colour from the new leaves coming out. The donkey began to eat
+to my great joy. Men sent off to search for a village return
+empty-handed, and we must halt. I am ill and losing much blood.
+
+_10th November, 1872._--Out from the Lake mountains, and along high
+ridges of sandstone and dolomite. Our guide volunteered to take the men
+on to a place where food can be bought--a very acceptable offer. The
+donkey is recovering; it was distinctly the effects of tsetse, for the
+eyes and all the mouth and nostrils swelled. Another died at Kwihara
+with every symptom of tsetse poison fully developed.
+
+[The above remarks on the susceptibility of the donkey to the bite of
+the tsetse fly are exceedingly important. Hitherto Dr. Livingstone had
+always maintained, as the result of his own observations, that this
+animal, at all events, could be taken through districts in which horses,
+mules, dogs, and oxen would perish to a certainty. With the keen
+perception and perseverance of one who was exploring Africa with a view
+to open it up for Europeans, he laid great stress on these experiments,
+and there is no doubt that the distinct result which he here arrived at
+must have a very significant bearing on the question of travel and
+transport.
+
+Still passing through the same desolate country, we see that he makes a
+note on the forsaken fields and the watch-towers in them. Cucumbers are
+cultivated in large quantities by the natives of Inner Africa, and the
+reader will no doubt call to mind the simile adopted by Isaiah some 2500
+years ago, as he pictured the coming desolation of Zion, likening her to
+a "lodge in a garden of cucumbers."[27]]
+
+_11th November, 1872._--Over
+gently undulating country, with many old gardens and watch-houses, some
+of great height, we reached the River Kalambo, which I know as falling
+into Tanganyika. A branch joins it at the village of Mosapasi; it is
+deep, and has to be crossed by a bridge, whilst the Kalambo is shallow,
+and say twenty yards wide, but it spreads out a good deal.
+
+[Their journey of the _12th_ and _13th_ led them over low ranges of
+sandstone and hæmatite, and past several strongly stockaded villages.
+The weather was cloudy and showery--a relief, no doubt, after the
+burning heat of the last few weeks. They struck the Halochéché River, a
+rapid stream fifteen yards wide and thigh deep, on its way to the Lake,
+and arrived at Zombé's town, which is built in such a manner that the
+river runs through it, whilst a stiff palisade surrounds it. He says:--]
+
+It was entirely surrounded by M'toka's camp, and a constant fight
+maintained at the point where the line of stakes was weakened by the
+river running through. He killed four of the enemy, and then Chitimbwa
+and Kasonso coming to help him, the siege was raised.
+
+M'toka compelled some Malongwana to join him, and plundered many
+villages; he has been a great scourge. He also seems to have made an
+attack upon an Arab caravan, plundering it of six bales of cloth and one
+load of beads, telling them that if they wanted to get their things back
+they must come and help him conquer Zombé. The siege lasted three
+months, till the two brothers of Zombé, before-mentioned, came, and then
+a complete rout ensued. M'toka left nearly all his guns behind him; his
+allies, the Malongwana, had previously made their escape. It is two
+months since this rout, so we have been prevented by a kind Providence
+from coming soon enough. He was impudent and extortionate before, and
+much more now that he has been emboldened by success in plundering.
+
+_16th November, 1872._--After waiting some time for the men I sent men
+back yesterday to look after the sick donkey, they arrived, but the
+donkey died this morning. Its death was evidently caused by tsetse bite
+and bad usage by one of the men, who kept it forty-eight hours without
+water. The rain, no doubt, helped to a fatal end; it is a great loss to
+me.
+
+_17th November, 1872._--We went on along the bottom of a high ridge that
+flanks the Lake on the west, and then turned up south-east to a village
+hung on the edge of a deep chasm in which flows the Aeezy.
+
+_18th November, 1872._--We were soon overwhelmed in a pouring rain, and
+had to climb up the slippery red path which is parallel and near to
+Mbétté's. One of the men picked up a little girl who had been deserted
+by her mother. As she was benumbed by cold and wet he carried her; but
+when I came up he threw her into the grass. I ordered a man to carry
+her, and we gave her to one of the childless women; she is about four
+years old, and not at all negro-looking. Our march took us about S.W. to
+Kampamba's, the son of Kasonso, who is dead.
+
+_19th November, 1872._--I visited Kampamba. He is still as agreeable as
+he was before when he went with us to Liemba. I gave him two cloths as a
+present. He has a good-sized village. There are heavy rains now and then
+every day.
+
+_20th, 21st, and 23rd November, 1872._--The men turn to stringing beads
+for future use, and to all except defaulters I give a present of 2
+dotis, and a handful of beads each. I have diminished the loads
+considerably, which pleases them much. We have now 3-1/2 loads of
+calico, and 120 bags of beads. Several go idle, but have to do any odd
+work, such as helping the sick or anything they are ordered to do. I
+gave the two Nassickers who lost the cow and calf only 1 doti, they were
+worth 14 dotis. One of our men is behind, sick with dysentery. I am
+obliged to leave him, but have sent for him twice, and have given him
+cloth and beads.
+
+_24th November, 1872._--Left Kampamba's to-day, and cross a meadow S.E.
+of the village in which the River Muanani rises. It flows into the
+Kapondosi and so on to the Lake. We made good way with Kiteneka as our
+guide, who formerly accompanied Kampamba and ourselves to Liemba. We
+went over a flat country once covered with trees, but now these have all
+been cut down, say 4 to 5 feet from the ground, most likely for
+clearing, as the reddish soil is very fertile. Long lines of hills of
+denudation are in the distance, all directed to the Lake.
+
+We came at last to Kasonso's successor's village on the River Molulwé,
+which is, say, thirty yards wide, and thigh deep. It goes to the Lofu.
+The chief here gave a sheep--a welcome present, for I was out of flesh
+for four days. Kampamba is stingy as compared with his father.
+
+_25th November, 1872._--We came in an hour's march to a rivulet called
+the Casembe--the departed Kasonso lived here. The stream is very deep,
+and flows slowly to the Lofu. Our path lay through much pollarded
+forest, troublesome to walk in, as the stumps send out leafy shoots.
+
+_26th November, 1872._--Started at daybreak. The grass was loaded with
+dew, and a heavy mist hung over everything. Passed two villages of
+people come out to cultivate this very fertile soil, which they manure
+by burning branches of trees. The Rivulet Loela flows here, and is also
+a tributary of the Lofu.
+
+_27th November, 1872._--As it is Sunday we stay here at N'dari's
+village, for we shall be in an uninhabited track to-morrow, beyond the
+Lofu. The headman cooked six messes for us and begged us to remain for
+more food, which we buy. He gave us a handsome present of flour and a
+fowl, for which I return him a present of a doti. Very heavy rain and
+high gusts of wind, which wet us all.
+
+_28th November, 1872._--We came to the River Lofu in a mile. It is
+sixty feet across and very deep. We made a bridge, and cut the banks
+down, so that the donkey and cattle could pass over. It took us two
+hours, during which time we hauled them all across with a rope. We were
+here misled by our guide, who took us across a marsh covered with tufts
+of grass, but with deep water between that never dries; there is a path
+which goes round it. We came to another village with a river which must
+be crossed--no stockade here, and the chief allowed us to camp in his
+town. There are long low lines of hills all about. A man came to the
+bridge to ask for toll-fee: as it was composed of one stick only, and
+unfit for our use because rotten, I agreed to pay provided he made it
+fit for our large company; but if I re-made and enlarged it, I said he
+ought to give me a goat for the labour. He slunk away, and we laid large
+trees across, where previously there was but one rotten pole.
+
+_29th November, 1872._--Crossed the Loozi in two branches, and climbed
+up the gentle ascent of Malembé to the village of Chiwé, whom I formerly
+called Chibwé, being misled by the Yao tongue. Ilamba is the name of the
+rill at his place. The Loozi's two branches were waist deep. The first
+was crossed by a natural bridge of a fig-tree growing across. It runs
+into the Lofu, which river rises in Isunga country at a mountain called
+Kwitetté. The Chambezé rises east of this, and at the same place as
+Louzua.
+
+Chiwé presented a small goat with crooked legs and some millet flour,
+but he grumbled at the size of the fathom cloth I gave. I offered
+another fathom, and a bundle of needles, but he grumbled at this too,
+and sent it back. On this I returned his goat and marched.
+
+[The road lay through the same country among low hills, for several
+miles, till they came on the _1st December_ to a rivulet called Lovu
+Katanta, where curiously enough they found a nutmeg-tree in full
+bearing. A wild species is found at Angola on the West Coast and it was
+probably of this description, and not the same species as that which is
+cultivated in the East. In two places he says:--]
+
+Who planted the nutmeg-tree on the Katanta?
+
+[Passing on with heavy rain pouring down, they now found themselves in
+the Wemba country, the low tree-covered hills exhibiting here and there
+"fine-grained schist and igneous rocks of red, white, and green
+colour."]
+
+_3rd December, 1872._--No food to be got on account of M'toka's and Tipo
+Tipo's raids.
+
+A stupid or perverse guide took us away to-day N.W. or W.N.W. The
+villagers refused to lead us to Chipwité's, where food was to be had; he
+is S.W. 1-1/2 day off. The guide had us at his mercy, for he said, "If
+you go S.W. you will be five days without food or people." We crossed
+the Kañomba, fifteen yards wide, and knee deep. Here our guide
+disappeared, and so did the path. We crossed the Lampussi twice; it is
+forty yards wide, and knee deep; our course is W.N.W. for about 4-1/2
+hours to-day. We camped and sent men to search for a village that has
+food. My third barometer (aneroid) is incurably injured by a fall, the
+man who carried it slipped upon a clayey path.
+
+_4th December, 1872._--Waiting for the return of our men in a green
+wooded valley on the Lampussi River. Those who were sent yesterday
+return without anything; they were directed falsely by the country
+people, where nought could be bought. The people themselves are living
+on grubs, roots, and fruits. The young plasterer Sphex is very fat on
+coming out of its clay house, and a good relish for food. A man came to
+us demanding his wife and child; they are probably in hiding; the slaves
+of Tipo Tipo have been capturing people. One sinner destroyeth much
+good!
+
+_5th December, 1872._--The people eat mushrooms and leaves. My men
+returned about 5 P.M. with two of Kafimbé's men bringing a present of
+food to me. A little was bought, and we go on to-morrow to sleep two
+nights on the way, and so to Kafimbé, who is a brother of Nsama's, and
+fights him.
+
+_6th December, 1872._--We cross the Lampussi again, and up to a mountain
+along which we go, and then down to some ruins. This took us five hours,
+and then with 2-1/4 more hours we reach Sintila. We hasten along as fast
+as hungry men (four of them sick) can go to get food.
+
+_1th December, 1872._--Off at 6.15 A.M. A leopard broke in upon us last
+night and bit a woman. She screamed, and so did the donkey, and it ran
+off. Our course lay along between two ranges of low hills, then, where
+they ended, we went by a good-sized stream thirty yards or so across,
+and then down into a valley to Kafimbé's.
+
+_8th December, 1872._--Very heavy rains. I visited Kafimbé. He is an
+intelligent and pleasant young man, who has been attacked several times
+by Kitandula, the successor of Nsama of Itawa, and compelled to shift
+from Motononga to this rivulet Motosi, which flows into the Kisi and
+thence into Lake Moero.
+
+_9th December, 1872._--Send off men to a distance for food, and wait of
+course. Here there is none for either love or money. To-day a man came
+from the Arab party at Kumba-Kumba's with a present of M'chelé and a
+goat. He reports that they have killed Casembe, whose people concealed
+from him the approach of the enemy till they were quite near. Having no
+stockade, he fell an easy prey to them. The conquerors put his head and
+all his ornaments on poles. His pretty wife escaped over Mofwé, and the
+slaves of the Arabs ran riot everywhere. We sent a return present of two
+dotis of cloth, one jorah of Kaniké, one doti of coloured cloth, three
+pounds of beads, and a paper of needles.
+
+_10th December, 1872._--Left Kafimbé's. He gave us three men to take us
+into Chama's village, and came a mile along the road with us. Our road
+took us by a winding course from one little deserted village to another.
+
+_11th December, 1872._--Being far from water we went two hours across a
+plain dotted with villages to a muddy rivulet called the Mukubwé (it
+runs to Moero), where we found the village of a nephew of Nsama. This
+young fellow was very liberal in gifts of food, and in return I gave him
+two cloths. An Arab, Juma bin Seff, sent a goat to-day. They have been
+riding it roughshod over all the inhabitants, and confess it.
+
+_12th December, 1872._--Marenza sent a present of dura flour and a fowl,
+and asked for a little butter as a charm. He seems unwilling to give us
+a guide, though told by Kafimbé to do so. Many Garaganza about: they
+trade in leglets, ivory, and slaves. We went on half-an-hour to the
+River Mokoé, which is thirty yards wide, and carries off much water into
+Malunda, and so to Lake Moero.
+
+When palm-oil palms are cut down for toddy, they are allowed to lie
+three days, then the top shoot is cut off smoothly, and the toddy begins
+to flow; and it flows for a month, or a month and a half or so, lying on
+the soil.
+
+[The note made on the following day is written with a feeble hand, and
+scarce one pencilled word tallies with its neighbour in form or
+distinctness--in fact, it is seen at a glance what exertion it cost him
+to write at all. He says no more than "Ill" in one place, but this is
+the evident explanation; yet with the same painstaking determination of
+old, the three rivers which they crossed have their names recorded, and
+the hours of marching and the direction are all entered in his pocket
+book.]
+
+_13th December, 1872._--Westward about by south, and crossed a river,
+Mokobwé, thirty-five yards. Ill, and after going S.W. camped in a
+deserted village, S.W. travelling five hours. River Mekanda 2nd. Meñomba
+3, where we camp.
+
+_14th December, 1872._--Guides turned N.W. to take us to a son of
+Nsama, and so play the usual present into his hands. I objected when I
+saw their direction, but they said, "The path turns round in front."
+After going a mile along the bank of the Meñomba, which has much water,
+Susi broke through and ran south, till he got a S. by W. path, which we
+followed, and came to a village having plenty of food. As we have now
+camped in village, we sent the men off to recall the fugitive women, who
+took us for Komba-Komba's men. Crossed the Luperé, which runs into the
+Makobwé.
+
+A leech crawling towards me in the village this morning elicited the
+Bemba idea that they fall from the clouds or sky--"mulu." It is called
+here "Mosunda a maluzé," or leech of the rivers; "Luba" is the Zanzibar
+name. In one place I counted nineteen leeches in our path, in about a
+mile; rain had fallen, and their appearance out of their hiding-places
+suddenly after heavy rain may have given rise to the idea of their fall
+with it as fishes do, and the thunder frog is supposed to do. Always too
+cloudy and rainy for observations of stars.
+
+_15th December, 1872._--The country is now level, covered with trees
+pollarded for clothing, and to make ashes of for manure. There are many
+deserted villages, few birds. Cross the Eiver Lithabo, thirty yards wide
+and thigh deep, running fast to the S.W., joined by a small one near.
+Reached village of Chipala, on the Rivulet Chikatula, which goes to
+Moipanza. The Lithabo goes to Kalongwesi by a S.W. course.
+
+_16th December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. across the Chikatula, and in
+three-quarters of an hour crossed the Lopanza, twelve yards wide and
+waist deep, being now in flood. The Lolela was before us in
+half-an-hour, eight yards wide and thigh deep, both streams perennial
+and embowered in tall umbrageous trees that love wet; both flow to the
+Kalongwesi.
+
+We came to quite a group of villages having food, and remain, as we got
+only driblets in the last two camps. Met two Banyamwezi carrying salt to
+Lobemba, of Moambu. They went to Kabuiré for it, and now retail it on
+the way back.
+
+At noon we got to the village of Kasiané, which is close to two
+rivulets, named Lopanza and Lolela. The headman, a relative of Nsama,
+brought me a large present of flour of dura, and I gave him two fathoms
+of calico.
+
+Floods by these sporadic rainfalls have discoloured waters, as seen in
+Lopanza and Lolela to-day. The grass is all springing up quickly, and
+the Maleza growing fast. The trees generally in full foliage. Different
+shades of green, the dark prevailing; especially along rivulets, and the
+hills in the distance are covered with dark blue haze. Here, in Lobemba,
+they are gentle slopes of about 200 or 300 feet, and sandstone crops out
+over their tops. In some parts clay schists appear, which look as if
+they had been fused or were baked by intense heat.
+
+The pugnacious spirit is one of the necessities of life. When people
+have little or none of it, they are subjected to indignity and loss. My
+own men walk into houses where we pass the nights without asking any
+leave, and steal cassava without shame. I have to threaten and thrash to
+keep them honest, while if we are at a village where the natives are a
+little pugnacious they are as meek as sucking doves. The peace plan
+involves indignity and wrong. I give little presents to the headmen, and
+to some extent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is indeed much
+appreciated, and produces profound hand-clapping.
+
+_17th December, 1872._--It looked rainy, but we waited half-an-hour, and
+then went on one hour and a half, when it set in and forced us to seek
+shelter in a village. The head of it was very civil, and gave us two
+baskets of cassava, and one of dura. I gave a small present first. The
+district is called Kisinga, and flanks the Kalongwezé.
+
+_18th December, 1872._--Over same flat pollarded forest until we
+reached the Kalongwesé Kiver on the right bank, and about a quarter of a
+mile east of the confluence of the Luéna or Kisaka. This side of the
+river is called Kisinga, the other is Chama's and Kisinga too. The Luena
+comes from Jangé in Casembe's land, or W.S.W. of this. The Kalongwesé
+comes from the S.E. of this, and goes away N.W. The donkey sends a foot
+every now and then through the roof of cavities made apparently by ants,
+and sinks down 18 inches or more and nearly falls. These covered hollows
+are right in the paths.
+
+_19th December, 1872._--So cloudy and wet that no observations can be
+taken for latitude and longitude at this real geographical point. The
+Kalongwesé is sixty or eighty yards wide and four yards deep, about a
+mile above the confluence of the Luéna. We crossed it in very small
+canoes, and swamped one twice, but no one was lost. Marched S. about
+1-1/4 hour.
+
+_20th December, 1872._--Shut in by heavy clouds. Wait to see if it will
+clear up. Went on at 7.15, drizzling as we came near the Mozumba or
+chiefs stockade. A son of Chama tried to mislead us by setting out west,
+but the path being grass-covered I objected, and soon came on to the
+large clear path. The guide ran off to report to the son, but we kept on
+our course, and he and the son followed us. We were met by a party, one
+of whom tried to regale us by vociferous singing and trumpeting on an
+antelope's horn, but I declined the deafening honour. Had we suffered
+the misleading we should have come here to-morrow afternoon.
+
+A wet bed last night, for it was in the canoe that was upset. It was so
+rainy that there was no drying it.
+
+_21st December, 1872._--Arrived at Chama's. Heavy clouds drifting past,
+and falling drizzle. Chama's brother tried to mislead us yesterday, in
+hopes of making us wander hopelessly and helplessly. Failing in this,
+from my refusal to follow a grass-covered path, he ran before us to the
+chief's stockade, and made all the women flee, which they did, leaving
+their chickens damless. We gave him two handsome cloths, one for himself
+and one for Chama, and said we wanted food only, and would buy it. They
+are accustomed to the bullying of half-castes, who take what they like
+for nothing. They are alarmed at our behaviour to-day, so we took quiet
+possession of the stockade, as the place that they put us in was on the
+open defenceless plain. Seventeen human skulls ornament the stockade.
+They left their fowls, and pigeons. There was no bullying. Our women
+went in to grind food, and came out without any noise. This flight seems
+to be caused by the foolish brother of the chief, and it is difficult to
+prevent stealing by my horde. The brother came drunk, and was taking off
+a large sheaf of arrows, when we scolded and prevented him.
+
+_22nd December, 1872._--We crossed a rivulet at Chama's village ten
+yards wide and thigh deep, and afterwards in an hour and a half came to
+a sedgy stream which we could barely cross. We hauled a cow across
+bodily. Went on mainly south, and through much bracken.
+
+_23rd December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. in a mist, and in an hour and a
+quarter came to three large villages by three rills called Misangwa, and
+much sponge; went on to other villages south, and a stockade.
+
+_24th December, 1872._--Cloud in sky with drifting clouds from S. and
+S.W. Very wet and drizzling. Sent back Chama's arrows, as his foolish
+brother cannot use them against us now; there are 215 in the bundle.
+Passed the Lopopussi running west to the Lofubu about seven yards wide,
+it flows fast over rocks with heavy aquatic plants. The people are not
+afraid of us here as they were so distressingly elsewhere: we hope to
+buy food here.
+
+_25th December, 1872, Christmas Day._--I thank the good Lord for the
+good gift of His Son Christ Jesus our Lord. Slaughtered an ox, and gave
+a fundo and a half to each of the party. This is our great day, so we
+rest. It is cold and wet, day and night. The headman is gracious and
+generous, which is very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing to
+sell, or stop to speak, or show the way.
+
+The White Nile carrying forward its large quasi-tidal wave presents a
+mass of water to the Blue Nile, which acts as a buffer to its rapid
+flood. The White Nile being at a considerable height when the Blue
+rushes down its steep slopes, presents its brother Nile with a soft
+cushion into which it plunges, and is restrained by the _vis inertiæ_ of
+the more slowly moving river, and, both united, pass on to form the
+great inundation of the year in Lower Egypt. The Blue River brings down
+the heavier portion of the Nile deposit, while the White River comes
+down with the black finely divided matter from thousands of square miles
+of forest in Manyuema, which probably gave the Nile its name, and is in
+fact the real fertilizing ingredient in the mud that is annually left.
+Some of the rivers in Manyuema, as the Luia and Machila, are of inky
+blackness, and make the whole main stream of a very Nilotic hue. An
+acquaintance with these dark flowing rivers, and scores of rills of
+water tinged as dark as strong tea, was all my reward for plunging
+through the terrible Manyuema mud or "glaur."
+
+_26th December, 1872._--Along among the usual low tree-covered hills of
+red and yellow and green schists--paths wet and slippery. Came to the
+Lofubu, fifteen yards broad and very deep, water clear, flowing
+north-west to join Luéna or Kisaka, as the Lopopussi goes west too into
+Lofubu it becomes large as we saw. We crossed by a bridge, and the
+donkey swam with men on each side of him. We came to three villages on
+the other side with many iron furnaces. Wet and drizzling weather made
+us stop soon. A herd of buffaloes, scared by our party, rushed off and
+broke the trees in their hurry, otherwise there is no game or marks of
+game visible.
+
+_27th December, 1872._--Leave the villages on the Lofubu. A cascade
+comes down on our left. The country undulating deeply, the hills, rising
+at times 300 to 400 feet, are covered with stunted wood. There is much
+of the common bracken fern and hart's-tongue. We cross one rivulet
+running to the Lofubu, and camp by a blacksmith's rill in the jungle. No
+rain fell to-day for a wonder, but the lower tier of clouds still drifts
+past from N.W.
+
+I killed a Naia Hadje snake seven feet long here, he reared up before me
+and turned to fight. The under north-west stratum of clouds is composed
+of fluffy cottony masses, the edges spread out as if on an electrical
+machine--the upper or south-east is of broad fields like striated cat's
+hair. The N.W. flies quickly, the S.E. slowly away where the others come
+from. No observations have been possible through most of this month.
+People assert that the new moon will bring drier weather, and the clouds
+are preparing to change the N.W. lower stratum into S.E., ditto, ditto,
+and the N.W. will be the upper tier.
+
+A man, ill and unable to come on, was left all night in the rain,
+without fire. We sent men back to carry him. Wet and cold. We are
+evidently ascending as we come near the Chambezé. The N.E. clouds came
+up this morning to meet the N.W. and thence the S.E. came across as if
+combating the N.W. So as the new moon comes soon, it may be a real
+change to drier weather.
+
+4 P.M.--The man carried in here is very ill; we must carry him
+to-morrow.
+
+_29th December, 1872._--Our man Chipangawazi died last night and was
+buried this morning. He was a quiet good man, his disease began at
+Kampamba's. New moon last night.
+
+_29th, or 1st January, 1873._--I am wrong two days.
+
+_29th December, 1872._--After the burial and planting four branches of
+Moriñga at the corners of the grave we went on southwards 3-1/4 hours to
+a river, the Luongo, running strongly west and south to the Luapula,
+then after one hour crossed it, twelve yards wide and waist deep. We met
+a man with four of his kindred stripping off bark to make bark-cloth: he
+gives me the above information about the Luongo.
+
+_1st January, 1873. (30th.)_--Came on at 6 A.M. very cold. The rains
+have ceased for a time. Arrive at the village of the man who met us
+yesterday. As we have been unable to buy food, through the illness and
+death of Chipangawazi, I camp here.
+
+_2nd January, 1873._--Thursday--Wednesday was the 1st, I was two days
+wrong.
+
+_3rd January, 1873._--The villagers very anxious to take us to the west
+to Chikumbi's, but I refused to follow them, and we made our course to
+the Luongo. Went into the forest south without a path for 1-1/2 hour,
+then through a flat forest, much fern and no game. We camped in the
+forest at the Situngula Rivulet. A little quiet rain through the night.
+A damp climate this--lichens on all the trees, even on those of 2 inches
+diameter. Our last cow died of injuries received in crossing the Lofubu.
+People buy it for food, so it is not an entire loss.
+
+_4th January, 1873._--March south one hour to the Lopoposi or Lopopozi
+stream of 25 or 30 feet, and now breast deep, flowing fast southwards to
+join the Chambezé. Camped at Ketebé's at 2 P.M. on the Rivulet Kizima
+after very heavy rain.
+
+_5th January, 1873._--A woman of our party is very ill; she will require
+to be carried to-morrow.
+
+_6th January, 1873._--Ketebé or Kapesha very civil and generous. He sent
+three men to guide us to his elder brother Chungu. The men drum and sing
+harshly for him continually. I gave him half-a-pound of powder, and he
+lay on his back rolling and clapping his hands, and all his men
+lulliloed; then he turned on his front, and did the same. The men are
+very timid--no wonder, the Arab slaves do as they choose with them. The
+women burst out through, the stockade in terror when my men broke into
+a chorus as they were pitching my tent. Cold, cloudy, and drizzling.
+Much cultivation far from the stockades.
+
+The sponges here are now full and overflowing, from the continuous and
+heavy rains. Crops of mileza, maize, cassava, dura, tobacco, beans,
+ground-nuts, are growing finely. A border is made round each patch,
+manured by burning the hedge, and castor-oil plants, pumpkins,
+calabashes, are planted in it to spread out over the grass.
+
+_7th January, 1873._--A cold rainy day keeps us in a poor village very
+unwillingly. 3 P.M. Fair, after rain all the morning--on to the Rivulet
+Kamalopa, which runs to Kamolozzi and into Kapopozi.
+
+_8th January, 1873._--Detained by heavy continuous rains in the village
+Moenje. We are near Lake Bangweolo and in a damp region. Got off in the
+afternoon in a drizzle; crossed a rill six feet wide, but now very deep,
+and with large running sponges on each side; it is called the Kamalopa,
+then one hour beyond came to a sponge, and a sluggish rivulet 100 yards
+broad with broad sponges on either bank waist deep, and many leeches.
+Came on through flat forest as usual S.W. and S.
+
+[We may here call attention to the alteration of the face of the country
+and the prominent notice of "sponges." His men speak of the march from
+this point as one continual plunge in and out of morass, and through
+rivers which were only distinguishable from the surrounding waters by
+their deep currents and the necessity for using canoes. To a man reduced
+in strength and chronically affected with dysenteric symptoms ever
+likely to be aggravated by exposure, the effect may be well conceived!
+It is probable that had Dr. Livingstone been at the head of a hundred
+picked Europeans, every man would have been down within the next
+fortnight. As it is, we cannot help thinking of his company of
+followers, who must have been well led and under the most thorough
+control to endure these marches at all, for nothing cows the African so
+much as rain. The next day's journey may be taken as a specimen of the
+hardships every one had to endure:--]
+
+_9th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. After an hour we crossed the
+rivulet and sponge of Nkulumuna, 100 feet of rivulet and 200 yards of
+flood, besides some 200 yards of sponge full and running off; we then,
+after another hour, crossed the large rivulet Lopopozi by a bridge which
+was 45 feet long, and showed the deep water; then 100 yards of flood
+thigh deep, and 200 or 300 yards of sponge. After this we crossed two
+rills called Liñkanda and their sponges, the rills in flood 10 or 12
+feet broad and thigh deep. After crossing the last we came near the
+Mosumba, and received a message to build our sheds in the forest, which
+we did.
+
+Chungu knows what a nuisance a Safari (caravan) makes itself. Cloudy
+day, and at noon heavy rain from N.W. The headman on receiving two
+cloths said he would converse about our food and show it to-morrow. No
+observations can be made, from clouds and rain.
+
+_10th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. Rest to-day and get an insight
+into the ford: cold rainy weather. When we prepared to visit Chungu, we
+received a message that he had gone to his plantations to get millet. He
+then sent for us at 1 P.M. to come, but on reaching the stockade we
+heard a great Kelélé, or uproar, and found it being shut from terror. We
+spoke to the inmates but in vain, so we returned. Chungu says that we
+should put his head on a pole like Casembe's! We shall go on without him
+to-morrow. The terror guns have inspired is extreme.
+
+_11th January, 1873._--Chungu sent a goat and big basket of flour, and
+excused his fears because guns had routed Casembe and his head was put
+on a pole; it was his young men that raised the noise. We remain to buy
+food, as there is scarcity at Mombo, in front. Cold and rainy weather,
+never saw the like; but this is among the sponges of the Nile and near
+the northern shores of Bangweolo.
+
+_12th January, 1873._--A dry day enabled us to move forward an hour to a
+rivulet and sponge, but by ascending it we came to its head and walked
+over dryshod, then one hour to another broad rivulet--Pinda, sluggish,
+and having 100 yards of sponge on each side. This had a stockaded
+village, and the men in terror shut the gates. Our men climbed over and
+opened them, but I gave the order to move forward through flat forest
+till we came to a running rivulet of about twenty feet, but with 100
+yards of sponge on each side. The white sand had come out as usual and
+formed the bottom. Here we entered a village to pass the night. We
+passed mines of fine black iron ore ("motapo"); it is magnetic.
+
+_13th January, 1873._--Storm-stayed by rain and cold at the village on
+the Rivulet Kalambosi, near the Chambezé. Never was in such a spell of
+cold rainy weather except in going to Loanda in 1853. Sent back for
+food.
+
+_14th January, 1873._--Went on dry S.E. and then S. two hours to River
+Mozinga, and marched parallel to it till we came to the confluence of
+Kasié. Mosinga, 25 feet, waist deep, with 150 yards of sponge on right
+bank and about 50 yards on left. There are many plots of cassava, maize,
+millet, dura, ground-nuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded with
+strong high hedges skilfully built, and manured with wood ashes. The
+villagers are much afraid of us. After 4-1/2 hours we were brought up by
+the deep rivulet Mpanda, to be crossed to-morrow in canoes. There are
+many flowers in the forest: marigolds, a white jonquil-looking flower
+without smell, many orchids, white, yellow, and pink Asclepias, with
+bunches of French-white flowers, clematis--_Methonica gloriosa_,
+gladiolus, and blue and deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starry
+seed-vessels, and spikelets of brownish red and yellow. Besides these
+there are beautiful blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of pretty
+delicate form and but little scent. To this list may be added balsams,
+compositæ of blood-red colour and of purple; other flowers of liver
+colour, bright canary yellow, pink orchids on spikes thickly covered all
+round, and of three inches in length; spiderworts of fine blue or yellow
+or even pink. Different coloured asclepedials; beautiful yellow and red
+umbelliferous flowering plants; dill and wild parsnips; pretty flowery
+aloes, yellow and red, in one whorl of blossoms; peas, and many other
+flowering plants which I do not know. Very few birds or any kind of
+game. The people are Babisa, who have fled from the west and are busy
+catching fish in basket traps.
+
+_15th January, 1873._--Found that Chungu had let us go astray towards
+the Lake, and into an angle formed by the Mpandé and Lopopussi, and the
+Lake-full of rivulets which are crossed with canoes. Chisupa, a headman
+on the other side of the Mpanda, sent a present and denounced Chungu for
+heartlessness. We explained to one man our change of route and went
+first N.E., then E. to the Monsinga, which we forded again at a deep
+place full of holes and rust-of-iron water, in which we floundered over
+300 yards. We crossed a sponge thigh deep before we came to the Mosinga,
+then on in flat forest to a stockaded village; the whole march about
+east for six hours.
+
+_16th January, 1873._--Away north-east and north to get out of the many
+rivulets near the Lake back to the River Lopopussi, which now looms
+large, and must be crossed in canoes. We have to wait in a village till
+these are brought, and have only got 1-3/4 hour nearly north.
+
+We were treated scurvily by Chungu. He knew that we were near the
+Chambezé, but hid the knowledge and himself too. It is terror of guns.
+
+_17th January, 1873._--We are troubled for want of canoes, but have to
+treat gently with the owners, otherwise they would all run away, as
+they have around Chungu's, in the belief that we should return to punish
+their silly headman. By waiting patiently yesterday, we drew about
+twenty canoes towards us this morning, but all too small for the donkey,
+so we had to turn away back north-west to the bridge above Chungu's. If
+we had tried to swim the donkey across alongside a canoe it would have
+been terribly strained, as the Lopopussi is here quite two miles wide
+and full of rushes, except in the main stream. It is all deep, and the
+country being very level as the rivulets come near to the Lake, they
+become very broad. Crossed two sponges with rivulets in their centre.
+
+Much cultivation in the forest. In the second year the mileza and maize
+are sickly and yellow white; in the first year, with fresh wood ashes,
+they are dark green and strong. Very much of the forest falls for
+manure. The people seem very eager cultivators. Possibly mounds have the
+potash brought up in forming.
+
+_18th January, 1873._--We lost a week by going to Chungu (a worthless
+terrified headman), and came back to the ford of Lopopussi, which we
+crossed, only from believing him to be an influential man who would
+explain the country to us. We came up the Lopopussi three hours
+yesterday, after spending two hours in going down to examine the canoes.
+We hear that Sayde bin Ali is returning from Katanga with much ivory.
+
+_19th January, 1873._--After prayers we went on to a fine village, and
+on from it to the Mononsé, which, though only ten feet of deep stream
+flowing S., had some 400 yards of most fatiguing, plunging, deep sponge,
+which lay in a mass of dark-coloured rushes, that looked as if burnt
+off: many leeches plagued us. We were now two hours out. We went on two
+miles to another sponge and village, but went round its head dryshod,
+then two hours more to sponge Lovu. Flat forest as usual.
+
+_20th January, 1873._--Tried to observe lunars in vain; clouded over
+all, thick and muggy. Came on disappointed and along the Lovu 1-1/2
+mile. Crossed it by a felled tree lying over it. It is about six feet
+deep, with 150 yards of sponge. Marched about 2-1/2 hours: very
+unsatisfactory progress.
+
+[In answer to a question as to whether Dr. Livingstone could possibly
+manage to wade so much, Susi says that he was carried across these
+sponges and the rivulets on the shoulders of Chowpéré or Chumah.]
+
+_21st January, 1873._--Fundi lost himself yesterday, and we looked out
+for him. He came at noon, having wandered in the eager pursuit of two
+herds of eland; having seen no game for a long time, he lost himself in
+the eager hope of getting one. We went on 2-1/2 hours, and were brought
+up by the River Malalanzi, which is about 15 feet wide, waist deep, and
+has 300 yards or more of sponge. Guides refused to come as Chituñkùe,
+their headman, did not own them. We started alone: a man came after us
+and tried to mislead us in vain.
+
+_22nd January, 1873._--We pushed on through many deserted gardens and
+villages, the man evidently sent to lead us astray from our S.E. course;
+he turned back when he saw that we refused his artifice. Crossed another
+rivulet, possibly the Lofu, now broad and deep, and then came to another
+of several deep streams but sponge, not more than fifty feet in all.
+Here we remained, having travelled in fine drizzling rain all the
+morning. Population all gone from the war of Chitoka with this
+Chituñkùe.
+
+No astronomical observations worth naming during December and January;
+impossible to take any, owing to clouds and rain.
+
+It is trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives lying and
+misleading us wherever they can. They fear us very, greatly, and with a
+terror that would gratify an anthropologist's heart. Their
+unfriendliness is made more trying by our being totally unable to
+observe for our position. It is either densely clouded, or continually
+raining day and night. The country is covered with brackens, and
+rivulets occur at least one every hour of the march. These are now deep,
+and have a broad selvage of sponge. The lower stratum of clouds moves
+quickly from the N.W.; the upper move slowly from S.E., and tell of rain
+near.
+
+_23rd January, 1873._--We have to send back to villages of Chituñkùe to
+buy food. It was not reported to me that the country in front was
+depopulated for three days, so I send a day back. I don't know where we
+are, and the people are deceitful in their statements; unaccountably so,
+though we deal fairly and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tired
+on this watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keep
+everything and every place wet and sloppy.
+
+Our people return with a wretched present from Chituñkùe; bad flour and
+a fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. He sent also an exorbitant
+demand for gunpowder, and payment of guides. I refused his present, and
+must plod on without guides, and this is very difficult from the
+numerous streams.
+
+_24th January, 1873._--Went on E. and N.E. to avoid the deep part of a
+large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chief
+would certainly hide them. Went 1-3/4 hour's journey to a large stream
+through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water, amongst sedges
+and sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for fifty yards, and
+the water cold. We plunged in elephants' footprints 1-1/2 hour, then
+came on one hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep,
+bridge covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad deep
+sedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was at
+least 2000 feet broad, or more than 300 yards. The first part, the main
+stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held
+up my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and when he
+sank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, so
+as to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Others
+went on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the side of
+the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear
+stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong current
+came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had the
+first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab-looking man, then
+Amoda, then Chanda, then Wadé Salé, and each time I was lifted off
+bodily, and put on another pair of stout willing shoulders, and fifty
+yards put them out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folk
+of our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross over,
+and several came over turn to help me and their friends. The water was
+cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued us. We had to hasten
+on the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rain
+threatened us. After 4 P.M. it came on a pouring cold rain, when we were
+all under cover. We are anxious about food. The Lake is near, but we are
+not sure of provisions, as there have been changes of population. Our
+progress is distressingly slow. Wet, wet, wet; sloppy weather, truly,
+and no observations, except that the land near the Lake being very
+level, the rivers spread out into broad friths and sponges. The streams
+are so numerous that there has been a scarcity of names. Here we have
+Loon and Luéna. We had two Loous before, and another Luena.
+
+_25th January, 1873._--Kept in by rain. A man from Unyanyembé joined us
+this morning. He says that he was left sick. Rivulets and sponges again,
+and through flat forest, where, as usual, we can see the slope of the
+land by the leaves being washed into heaps in the direction which the
+water in the paths wished to take. One and a half hours more, and then
+to the River Loou, a large stream with bridge destroyed. Sent to make
+repairs before we go over it, and then passed. The river is deep, and
+flows fast to the S.W., having about 200 yards of safe flood flowing in
+long grass--clear water. The men built their huts, and had their camp
+ready by 3 P.M. A good day's work, not hindered by rain. The country all
+depopulated, so we can buy nothing. Elephants and antelopes have been
+here lately.
+
+_26th January, 1873._--I arranged to go to our next River Luena, and
+ascend it till we found it small enough for crossing, as it has much
+"Tinga-tinga," or yielding spongy soil; but another plan was formed by
+night, and we were requested to go down the Loou. Not wishing to appear
+overbearing, I consented until we were, after two hours' southing,
+brought up by several miles of Tinga-tinga. The people in a fishing
+village ran away from us, and we had to wait for some sick ones. The
+women are collecting mushrooms. A man came near us, but positively
+refused to guide us to Matipa, or anywhere else.
+
+The sick people compelled us to make an early halt.
+
+_27th January, 1873._--On again through streams, over sponges and
+rivulets thigh deep. There are marks of gnu and buffalo. I lose much
+blood, but it is a safety-valve for me, and I have no fever or other
+ailments.
+
+_28th January, 1873._--A dreary wet morning, and no food that we know of
+near. It is drop, drop, drop, and drizzling from the north-west. We
+killed our last calf but one last night to give each a mouthful. At 9.30
+we were allowed by the rain to leave our camp, and march S.E. for two
+hours to a strong deep rivulet ten feet broad only, but waist deep, and
+150 yards of flood all deep too. Sponge about forty yards in all, and
+running fast out. Camped by a broad prairie or Bouga.
+
+_29th January, 1873._--No rain in the night, for a wonder. We tramped
+1-1/4 hour to a broad sponge, having at least 300 yards of flood, and
+clear water flowing S.W., but no usual stream. All was stream flowing
+through the rushes, knee and thigh deep. On still with the same,
+repeated again and again, till we came to broad branching sponges, at
+which I resolved to send out scouts S., S.E., and S.W. The music of the
+singing birds, the music of the turtle doves, the screaming of the
+frankolin proclaim man to be near.
+
+_30th January, 1873._--Remain waiting for the scouts. Manuasera returned
+at dark, having gone about eight hours south, and seen the Lake and two
+islets. Smoke now appeared in the distance, so he turned, and the rest
+went on to buy food where the smoke was. Wet evening.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[26] Bangé or hemp in time produces partial idiotcy if smoked in
+excess. It is used amongst all the Interior tribes.
+
+[27] Isaiah i. 8.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chituñkuè's. At the chief's mercy.
+    Agreeably surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very
+    difficult march. Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends
+    scouts out to find villages. Message to Chirubwé. An ant raid.
+    Awaits news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of
+    Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and
+    Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at
+    Matipa's islet. Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit.
+    Tries to go on to Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a
+    demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and
+    detachment sent to Kabinga's. Extraordinary extent of flood.
+    Reaches Kabinga's. An upset. Crosses the Chambezé. The River
+    Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and water. A
+    disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations on fish.
+    Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous
+    state of Dr. Livingstone.
+
+
+_1st February, 1873._--Waiting for the scouts. They return
+unsuccessful--forced to do so by hunger. They saw a very large river
+flowing into the Lake, but did not come across a single soul. Killed our
+last calf, and turn back for four hard days' travel to Chituñkuè's. I
+send men on before us to bring food back towards us.
+
+_2nd February, 1873._--March smartly back to our camp of 28th ult. The
+people bear their hunger well. They collect mushrooms and plants, and
+often get lost in this flat featureless country.
+
+_3rd February, 1873._--Return march to our bridge on the Lofu, five
+hours. In going we went astray, and took six hours to do the work of
+five. Tried lunars in vain. Either sun or moon in clouds. On the Luéna.
+
+_4th February, 1873._--Return to camp on the rivulet with much
+_Methonica gloriosa_ on its banks. Our camp being on its left bank of
+26th. It took long to cross the next river, probably the Kwalé, though
+the elephants' footprints are all filled up now. Camp among deserted
+gardens, which afford a welcome supply of cassava and sweet potatoes.
+The men who were sent on before us slept here last night, and have
+deceived us by going more slowly without loads than we who are loaded.
+
+_5th February, 1873._--Arrived at Chituñkuè's, crossing two broad deep
+brooks, and on to the Malalenzi, now swollen, having at least 200 yards
+of flood and more than 300 yards of sponge. Saluted by a drizzling
+shower. We are now at Chituñkuè's mercy.
+
+We find the chief more civil than we expected. He said each chief had
+his own land and his own peculiarities. He was not responsible for
+others. We were told that we had been near to Matipa and other chiefs:
+he would give us guides if we gave him a cloth and some powder.
+
+We returned over these forty-one miles in fifteen hours, through much
+deep water. Our scouts played us false both in time and beads: the
+headmen punished them. I got lunars, for a wonder. Visited Chitunkubwé,
+as his name properly is. He is a fine jolly-looking man, of a European
+cast of countenance, and very sensible and friendly. I gave him two
+cloths, for which he seemed thankful, and promised good guides to
+Matipa's. He showed me two of Matipa's men who had heard us firing guns
+to attract one of our men who had strayed; these men followed us. It
+seems we had been close to human habitations, but did not know it. We
+have lost half a month by this wandering, but it was all owing to the
+unfriendliness of some and the fears of all. I begged for a more
+northerly path, where the water is low. It is impossible to describe
+the amount of water near the Lake. Rivulets without number. They are so
+deep as to damp all ardour. I passed a very large striped spider in
+going to visit Chitunkubwé. The stripes were of yellowish green, and it
+had two most formidable reddish mandibles, the same shape as those of
+the redheaded white ant. It seemed to be eating a kind of ant with a
+light-coloured head, not seen elsewhere. A man killed it, and all the
+natives said that it was most dangerous. We passed gardens of dura;
+leaves all split up with hail, and forest leaves all punctured.
+
+_6th February, 1873._--Chitunkubwé gave a small goat and a large basket
+of flour as a return present. I gave him three-quarters of a pound of
+powder, in addition to the cloth.
+
+_7th February, 1873._--This chief showed his leanings by demanding
+prepayment for his guides. This being a preparatory step to their
+desertion I resisted, and sent men to demand what he meant by his words;
+he denied all, and said that his people lied, not he. We take this for
+what it is worth. He gives two guides to-morrow morning, and visits us
+this afternoon.
+
+_8th February, 1873._--The chief dawdles, although he promised great
+things yesterday. He places the blame on his people, who did not prepare
+food on account of the rain. Time is of no value to them. We have to
+remain over to-day. It is most trying to have to wait on frivolous
+pretences. I have endured such vexatious delays. The guides came at last
+with quantities of food, which they intend to bargain with my people on
+the way. A Nassicker who carried my saddle was found asleep near my
+camp.
+
+_9th February, 1873._--Slept in a most unwholesome, ruined village. Rank
+vegetation had run over all, and the soil smelled offensively. Crossed a
+sponge, then a rivulet, and sponge running into the Miwalé Eiver, then
+by a rocky passage we crossed the Mofiri, or great Tinga-tinga, a water
+running strongly waist and breast deep, above thirty feet broad here,
+but very much broader below. After this we passed two more rills and the
+River Methonua, but we build a camp above our former one. The human
+ticks called "papasi" by the Suaheli, and "karapatos" by the Portuguese,
+made even the natives call out against their numbers and ferocity.
+
+_10th February, 1873._--Back again to our old camp on the Lovu or Lofu
+by the bridge. We left in a drizzle, which continued from 4 A.M. to 1
+P.M. We were three hours in it, and all wetted, just on reaching camp by
+200 yards, of flood mid-deep; but we have food.
+
+_11th February, 1873._--Our guides took us across country, where we saw
+tracks of buffaloes, and in a meadow, the head of a sponge, we saw a
+herd of Hartebeests. A drizzly night was followed by a morning of cold
+wet fog, but in three hours we reached our old camp: it took us six
+hours to do this distance before, and five on our return. We camped on a
+deep bridged stream, called the Kiachibwé.
+
+_12th February, 1873._--We crossed the Kasoso, which joins the Mokisya,
+a river we afterwards crossed: it flows N.W., then over the Mofungwé.
+The same sponges everywhere.
+
+_13th February, 1873._--In four hours we came within sight of the Luéna
+and Lake, and saw plenty of elephants and other game, but very shy. The
+forest trees are larger. The guides are more at a loss than we are, as
+they always go in canoes in the flat rivers and rivulets. Went E., then
+S.E. round to S.
+
+_14th February, 1873._--Public punishment to Chirango for stealing
+beads, fifteen cuts; diminished his load to 40 lbs., giving him blue and
+white beads to be strung. The water stands so high in the paths that I
+cannot walk dryshod, and I found in the large bougas or prairies in
+front, that it lay knee deep, so I sent on two men to go to the first
+villages of Matipa for large canoes to navigate the Lake, or give us a
+guide to go east to the Chambezé, to go round on foot. It was Halima
+who informed on Chirango, as he offered her beads for a cloth of a kind
+which she knew had not hitherto been taken out of the baggage. This was
+so far faithful in her, but she has an outrageous tongue. I remain
+because of an excessive hæmorrhagic discharge.
+
+[We cannot but believe Livingstone saw great danger in these constant
+recurrences of his old disorder: we find a trace of it in the solemn
+reflections which he wrote in his pocket-book, immediately under the
+above words:--]
+
+If the good Lord gives me favour, and permits me to finish my work, I
+shall thank and bless Him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain, and
+travel; this trip has made my hair all grey.
+
+_15th February, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Killed our last goat while
+waiting for messengers to return from Matipa's. Evening: the messenger
+came back, having been foiled by deep tinga-tinga and bouga. He fired
+his gun three times, but no answer came, so as he had slept one night
+away he turned, but found some men hunting, whom he brought with him.
+They say that Matipa is on Chirubé islet, a good man too, but far off
+from this.
+
+_16th February, 1873._--Sent men by the hunter's canoe to Chirubé, with
+a request to Matipa to convey us west if he has canoes, but, if not, to
+tell us truly, and we will go east and cross the Chambezé where it is
+small. Chitunkubwé's men ran away, refusing to wait till we had
+communicated with Matipa. Here the water stands underground about
+eighteen inches from the surface. The guides played us false, and this
+is why they escaped.
+
+_17th February, 1873._--The men will return to-morrow, but they have to
+go all the way out to the islet of Chirubé to Matipa's.
+
+Suffered a furious attack at midnight from the red Sirafu or Driver
+ants. Our cook fled first at their onset. I lighted a candle, and
+remembering Dr. Van der Kemp's idea that no animal will attack man
+unprovoked, I lay still. The first came on my foot quietly, then some
+began to bite between the toes, then the larger ones swarmed over the
+foot and bit furiously, and made the blood start out. I then went out of
+the tent, and my whole person was instantly covered as close as
+small-pox (not confluent) on a patient. Grass fires were lighted, and my
+men picked some off my limbs and tried to save me. After battling for an
+hour or two they took me into a hut not yet invaded, and I rested till
+they came, the pests, and routed me out there too! Then came on a steady
+pour of rain, which held on till noon, as if trying to make us
+miserable. At 9 A.M. I got back into my tent. The large Sirafu have
+mandibles curved like reaping-sickles, and very sharp--as fine at the
+point as the finest needle or a bee's sting. Their office is to remove
+all animal refuse, cockroaches, &c., and they took all my fat. Their
+appearance sets every cockroach in a flurry, and all ants, white and
+black, get into a panic. On man they insert the sharp curved mandibles,
+and then with six legs push their bodies round so as to force the points
+by lever power. They collect in masses in their runs and stand with
+mandibles extended, as if defying attack. The large ones stand thus at
+bay whilst the youngsters hollow out a run half an inch wide, and about
+an inch deep. They remained with us till late in the afternoon, and we
+put hot ashes on the defiant hordes. They retire to enjoy the fruits of
+their raid, and come out fresh another day.
+
+_18th February, 1873._--We wait hungry and cold for the return of the
+men who have gone to Matipa, and hope the good Lord will grant us
+influence with this man.
+
+Our men have returned to-day, having obeyed the native who told them to
+sleep instead of going to Matipa. They bought food, and then believed
+that the islet Chirubé was too far off, and returned with a most lame
+story. We shall make the best of it by going N.W., to be near the islets
+and buy food, till we can communicate with Matipa. If he fails us by
+fair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The men say fear of me
+makes them act very cowardly. I have gone amongst the whole population
+kindly and fairly, but I fear I must now act rigidly, for when they hear
+that we have submitted to injustice, they at once conclude that we are
+fair game for all, and they go to lengths in dealing falsely that they
+would never otherwise attempt. It is, I can declare, not my nature, nor
+has it been my practice, to go as if "my back were up."
+
+_19th February, 1873._--A cold wet morning keeps us in this
+uncomfortable spot. When it clears up we go to an old stockade, to be
+near an islet to buy food. The people, knowing our need, are
+extortionate. We went on at 9 A.M. over an extensive water-covered
+plain. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and then in it we went
+westward, in branches of the Luena, very deep and flowing W. for three
+hours. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and we were then near
+enough to hear Bangweolo bellowing. The water on the plain is four,
+five, and seven feet deep. There are rushes, ferns, papyrus, and two
+lotuses, in abundance. Many dark grey caterpillars clung to the grass
+and were knocked off as we paddled or poled. Camped in an old village of
+Matipa's, where, in the west, we see the Luena enter Lake Bangweolo; but
+all is flat prairie or buga, filled with fast-flowing water, save a few
+islets covered with palms and trees. Rain continued sprinkling us from
+the N.W. all the morning. Elephants had run riot over the ruins, eating
+a species of grass now in seed. It resembles millet, and the donkey is
+fond of it. I have only seen this and one other species of grass in seed
+eaten by the African elephant. Trees, bulbs, and fruits are his
+dainties, although ants, whose hills he overturns, are relished. A large
+party in canoes came with food as soon as we reached our new quarters:
+they had heard that we were in search of Matipa. All are eager for
+calico, though they have only raw cassava to offer. They are clothed in
+bark-cloth and skins. Without canoes no movement can be made in any
+direction, for it is water everywhere, water above and water below.
+
+_20th February, 1873._--I sent a request to a friendly man to give me
+men, and a large canoe to go myself to Matipa; he says that he will let
+me know to-day if he can. Heavy rain by night and drizzling by day. No
+definite answer yet, but we are getting food, and Matipa will soon hear
+of us as he did when we came and returned back for food. I engaged
+another man to send a canoe to Matipa, and I showed him his payment, but
+retain it here till he comes back.
+
+_21st February, 1873._--The men engaged refuse to go to Matipa's, they
+have no honour. It is so wet we can do nothing. Another man spoken to
+about going, says that they run the risk of being killed by some hostile
+people on another island between this and Matipa's.
+
+_22nd February, 1873._--A wet morning. I was ill all yesterday, but
+escape fever by hæmorrhage. A heavy mantle of N.W. clouds came floating
+over us daily. No astronomical observation can possibly be taken. I was
+never in such misty cloudy weather in Africa. A man turned up at 9 A.M.
+to carry our message to Matipa; Susi and Chumah went with him. The good
+Lord go with them, and lend me influence and grant me help.
+
+_23rd February, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Rainy.
+
+_24th February, 1873._--Tried hard for a lunar, but the moon was lost in
+the glare of the sun.
+
+_25th February, 1873._--For a wonder it did not rain till 4 P.M. The
+people bring food, but hold out for cloth, which is inconvenient.
+
+Susi and Chumah not appearing may mean that the men are preparing canoes
+and food to transport us.
+
+_25th February, 1873._--Susi returned this morning with good news from
+Matipa, who declares his willingness to carry us to Kabendé for the five
+bundles of brass wire I offered. It is not on Chirubé, but amid the
+swamps of the mainland on the Lake's north side. Immense swampy plains
+all around except at Kabendé. Matipa is at variance with his brothers on
+the subject of the lordship of the lands and the produce of the
+elephants, which are very numerous. I am devoutly thankful to the Giver
+of all for favouring me so far, and hope that He may continue His kind
+aid.
+
+No mosquitoes here, though Speke, at the Victoria Nyanza, said they
+covered the bushes and grass in myriads, and struck against the hands
+and face most disagreeably.
+
+_27th February, 1873._--Waiting for other canoes to be sent by Matipa.
+His men say that there is but one large river on the south of Lake
+Bangweolo, and called Luomba. They know the mountains on the south-east
+as I do, and on the west, but say they don't know any on the middle of
+the watershed. They plead their youth as an excuse for knowing so
+little.
+
+Matipa's men proposed to take half our men, but I refused to divide our
+force; they say that Matipa is truthful.
+
+_28th February, 1873._--No night rain after 8 P.M., for a wonder. Baker
+had 1500 men in health on 15th June, 1870, at lat. 9° 26' N., and 160 on
+sick list; many dead. Liberated 305 slaves. His fleet was thirty-two
+vessels; wife and he well. I wish that I met him. Matipa's men not
+having come, it is said they are employed bringing the carcase of an
+elephant to him. I propose to go near to him to-morrow, some in canoes
+and some on foot. The good Lord help me. New moon this evening.
+
+_1st March, 1873._--Embarked women and goods in canoes, and went three
+hours S.E. to Bangweolo. Stopped on an island where people were drying
+fish over fires. Heavy rain wetted us all as we came near the islet, the
+drops were as large as half-crowns by the marks they made. We went over
+flooded prairie four feet deep, and covered with rushes, and two
+varieties of lotus or sacred lily; both are eaten, and so are papyrus.
+The buffaloes are at a loss in the water. Three canoes are behind. The
+men are great cowards. I took possession of all the paddles and punting
+poles, as the men showed an inclination to move off from our islet. The
+water in the country is prodigiously large: plains extending further
+than the eye can reach have four or five feet of clear water, and the
+Lake and adjacent lands for twenty or thirty miles are level. We are on
+a miserable dirty fishy island called Motovinza; all are damp. We are
+surrounded by scores of miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotus
+plants, but no mosquitoes.
+
+_2nd March, 1873._--It took us 7-1/2 hours' punting to bring us to an
+island, and then the miserable weather rained constantly on our landing
+into the Boma (stockade), which is well peopled. The prairie is ten
+hours long, or about thirty miles by punting. Matipa is on an island
+too, with four bomas on it. A river, the Molonga, runs past it, and is a
+protection.[28]
+
+The men wear a curious head-dress of skin or hair, and large upright
+ears.
+
+_3rd March, 1873._--Matipa paid off the men who brought us here. He says
+that five Sangos or coils (which brought us here) will do to take us to
+Kabendé, and I sincerely hope that they will. His canoes are off,
+bringing the meat of an elephant. There are many dogs in the village,
+which they use in hunting to bring elephants to bay. I visited Matipa at
+noon. He is an old man, slow of tongue, and self-possessed; he
+recommended our crossing to the south bank of the Lake to his brother,
+who has plenty of cattle, and to goalong that side where there are few
+rivers and plenty to eat. Kabendé's land was lately overrun by
+Banyamwezi, who now inhabit that country, but as yet have no food to
+sell. Moanzabamba was the founder of the Babisa tribe, and used the
+curious plaits of hair which form such a singular head-dress here like
+large ears. I am rather in a difficulty, as I fear I must give the five
+coils for a much shorter task; but it is best not to appear unfair,
+although I will be the loser. He sent a man to catch a Sampa for me, it
+is the largest fish in the Lake, and he promised to have men ready to
+take my men over to-morrow. Matipa never heard from any of the elders of
+his people that any of his forefathers ever saw a European. He knew
+perfectly about Pereira, Lacerda, and Monteiro, going to Casembe, and my
+coming to the islet Mpabala. No trace seems to exist of Captain
+Singleton's march.[29] The native name of Pereira is "Moenda Mondo:" of
+Lacerda, "Charlie:" of Monteiro's party, "Makabalwé," or the donkey men,
+but no other name is heard. The following is a small snatch of Babisa
+lore. It was told by an old man who came to try for some beads, and
+seemed much interested about printing. He was asked if there were any
+marks made on the rocks in any part of the country, and this led to his
+story. Lukerenga came from the west a long time ago to the River
+Lualaba. He had with him a little dog. When he wanted to pass over he
+threw his mat on the water, and this served as a raft, and they crossed
+the stream. When he reached the other side there were rocks at the
+landing place, and the mark is still to be seen on the stone, not only
+of his foot, but of a stick which he cut with his hatchet, and of his
+dog's feet; the name of the place is Uchéwa.
+
+_4th March, 1873._--Sent canoes off to bring our men over tothe island
+of Matipa. They brought ten, but the donkey could not come as far
+through the "tinga-tinga" as they, so they took it back for fear that it
+should perish. I spoke to Matipa this morning to send more canoes, and
+he consented. We move outside, as the town swarms with mice, and is very
+closely built and disagreeable. I found mosquitoes in the town.
+
+_5th March, 1873._--Time runs on quickly. The real name of this island
+is Masumbo, and the position may be probably long. 31° 3'; lat. 10° 11'
+S. Men not arrived yet. Matipa very slow.
+
+_6th March, 1873._--Building a camp outside the town for quiet and
+cleanliness, and no mice to run over us at night. This islet is some
+twenty or thirty feet above the general flat country and adjacent water.
+
+At 3 P.M. we moved up to the highest part of the island where we can see
+around us and have the fresh breeze from the Lake. Rainy as we went up,
+as usual.
+
+_7th March, 1873._--We expect our men to-day. I tremble for the donkey!
+Camp sweet and clean, but it, too, has mosquitoes, from which a curtain
+protects me completely--a great luxury, but unknown to the Arabs, to
+whom I have spoken about it. Abed was overjoyed by one I made for him;
+others are used to their bites, as was the man who said that he would
+get used to a nail through the heel of his shoe. The men came at 3 P.M.,
+but eight had to remain, the canoes being too small. The donkey had to
+be tied down, as he rolled about on his legs and would have forced his
+way out. He bit Mabruki Speke's lame hand, and came in stiff from lying
+tied all day. We had him shampooed all over, but he could not eat
+dura--he feels sore. Susi did well under the circumstances, and we had
+plenty of flour ready for all. Chanza is near Kabinga, and this last
+chief is coming to visit me in a day or two.
+
+_8th March, 1873._--I press Matipa to get a fleet of canoes equal to
+our number, but he complains of their being stolen by rebel subjects. He
+tells me his brother Kabinga would have been here some days ago but for
+having lost a son, who was killed by an elephant: he is mourning for him
+but will come soon. Kabinga is on the other side of the Chambezé. A
+party of male and female drummers and dancers is sure to turn up at
+every village; the first here had a leader that used such violent antics
+perspiration ran off his whole frame. I gave a few strings of beads, and
+the performance is repeated to-day by another lot, but I rebel and allow
+them to dance unheeded. We got a sheep for a wonder for a doti; fowls
+and fish alone could be bought, but Kabinga has plenty of cattle.
+
+[Illustration: Dr. Livingstone's Mosquito Curtain.]
+
+There is a species of carp with red ventral fin, which is caught and
+used in very large quantities: it is called "pumbo." The people dry it
+over fires as preserved provisions. Sampa is the largest fish in the
+Lake, it is caught by a hook. The Luéna goes into Bangweolo at
+Molandangao. A male Msobé had faint white stripes across the back and
+one well-marked yellow stripe along the spine. The hip had a few faint
+white spots, which showed by having longer hair than the rest; a kid of
+the same species had a white belly.
+
+The eight men came from Motovinza this afternoon, and now all our party
+is united. The donkey shows many sores inflicted by the careless people,
+who think that force alone can be used to inferior animals.
+
+_11th March, 1873._--Matipa says "Wait; Kabinga is coming, and he has
+canoes." Time is of no value to him. His wife is making him pombe, and
+will drown all his cares, but mine increase and plague me. Matipa and
+his wife each sent me a huge calabash of pombe; I wanted only a little
+to make bread with.
+
+By putting leaven in a bottle and keeping it from one baking to another
+(or three days) good bread is made, and the dough being surrounded by
+banana leaves or maize leaves (or even forest leaves of hard texture and
+no taste, or simply by broad leafy grass), is preserved from burning in
+an iron pot. The inside of the pot is greased, then the leaves put in
+all round, and the dough poured in to stand and rise in the sun.
+
+Better news comes: the son of Kabinga is to be here to-night, and we
+shall concoct plans together.
+
+_12th March, 1873._--The news was false, no one came from Kabinga. The
+men strung beads to-day, and I wrote part of my despatch for Earl
+Granville.
+
+_13th March, 1873._--- I went to Matipa, and proposed to begin the
+embarkation of my men at once, as they are many, and the canoes are only
+sufficient to take a few at a time. He has sent off a big canoe to reap
+his millet, when it returns he will send us over to see for ourselves
+where we can go. I explained the danger of setting my men astray.
+
+_14th March, 1873._--Rains have ceased for a few days. Went down to
+Matipa and tried to take his likeness for the sake of the curious hat he
+wears.
+
+_15th March, 1873._--Finish my despatch so far.
+
+_16th March, 1873, Sunday._--Service. I spoke sharply to Matipa for his
+duplicity. He promises everything and does nothing: he has in fact no
+power over his people. Matipa says that a large canoe will come
+to-morrow, and next day men will go to Kabinga to reconnoitre. There may
+be a hitch there which we did not take into account; Kabinga's son,
+killed by an elephant, may have raised complications: blame may be
+attached to Matipa, and in their dark minds it may appear all important
+to settle the affair before having communication with him. Ill all day
+with my old complaint.
+
+[Illustration: Matipa and his Wife.]
+
+_17th March, 1873._--The delay is most trying. So many detentions have
+occurred they ought to have made me of a patient spirit.
+
+As I thought, Matipa told us to-day that it is reported he has some
+Arabs with him who will attack all the Lake people forthwith, and he is
+anxious that we shall go over to show them that we are peaceful.
+
+_18th March, 1873._--Sent off men to reconnoitre at Kabinga's and to
+make a camp there. Rain began again after nine days' dry weather, N.W.
+wind, but in the morning fleecy clouds came from S.E. in patches. Matipa
+is acting the villain, and my men are afraid of him: they are all
+cowards, and say that they are afraid of me, but this is only an excuse
+for their cowardice.
+
+_19th March, 1873._--Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for sparing
+me thus far on the journey of life. Can I hope for ultimate success? So
+many obstacles have arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, Oh! my good
+Lord Jesus.[30]
+
+8 A.M. Got about twenty people off to canoes. Matipa not friendly. They
+go over to Kabinga on S.W. side of the Chambezé, and thence we go
+overland. 9 A.M. Men came back and reported Matipa false again; only one
+canoe had come. I made a demonstration by taking quiet possession of his
+village and house; fired a pistol through the roof and called my men,
+ten being left to guard the camp; Matipa fled to another village. The
+people sent off at once and brought three canoes, so at 11 A.M. my men
+embarked quietly. They go across the Chambezé and build a camp on its
+left bank. All Kabinga's cattle are kept on an island called Kalilo,
+near the mouth of the Chambezé, and are perfectly wild: they are driven
+into the water like buffaloes, and pursued when one is wanted for meat.
+No milk is ever obtained of course.
+
+_20th March, 1873._--Cold N.W. weather, but the rainfall is small, as
+the S.E. stratum comes down below the N.W. by day. Matipa sent two large
+baskets of flour (cassava), a sheep, and a cock. He hoped that we should
+remain with him till the water of the over-flood dried, and help him to
+fight his enemies, but I explained our delays, and our desire to
+complete our work and meet Baker.
+
+_21st March, 1873._--Very heavy N.W. rain and thunder by night, and by
+morning. I gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire, and his wife a string
+of large neck beads, and explained my hurry to be off. He is now all
+fair, and promises largely: he has been much frightened by our warlike
+demonstration. I am glad I had to do nothing but make a show of force.
+
+_22nd March, 1873._--Susi not returned from Kabinga. I hope that he is
+getting canoes, and men also, to transport us all at one voyage. It is
+flood as far as the eye can reach; flood four and six feet deep, and
+more, with three species of rushes, two kinds of lotus, or sacred lily,
+papyrus, arum, &c. One does not know where land ends, and Lake begins:
+the presence of land-grass proves that this is not always overflowed.
+
+_23rd March, 1873._--Men returned at noon. Kabinga is mourning for his
+son killed by an elephant, and keeps in seclusion. The camp is formed on
+the left bank of the Chambezé.
+
+_24th March._--The people took the canoes away, but in fear sent for
+them. I got four, and started with all our goods, first giving a present
+that no blame should follow me. We punted six hours to a little islet
+without a tree, and no sooner did we land than a pitiless pelting rain
+came on. We turned up a canoe to get shelter. We shall reach the
+Chambezé to-morrow. The wind tore the tent out of our hands, and damaged
+it too; the loads are all soaked, and with the cold it is bitterly
+uncomfortable. A man put my bed into the bilge, and never said "Bale
+out," so I was for a wet night, but it turned out better than I
+expected. No grass, but we made a bed of the loads, and a blanket
+fortunately put into a bag.
+
+_25th March, 1873._--Nothing earthly will make me give up my work in
+despair. I encourage myself in the Lord my God, and go forward.
+
+We got off from our miserably small islet of ten yards at 7 A.M., a
+grassy sea on all sides, with a few islets in the far distance. Four
+varieties of rushes around us, triangular and fluted, rise from eighteen
+inches to two feet above the water. The caterpillars seem to eat each
+other, and a web is made round others; the numerous spiders may have
+been the workmen of the nest. The wind on the rushes makes a sound like
+the waves of the sea. The flood extends out in slightly depressed arms
+of the Lake for twenty or thirty miles, and far too broad to be seen
+across; fish abound, and ant-hills alone lift up their heads; they have
+trees on them. Lukutu flows from E. to W. to the Chambezé, as does the
+Lubanseusi also. After another six hours' punting, over the same
+wearisome prairie or Bouga, we heard the merry voices of children. It
+was a large village, on a flat, which seems flooded at times, but much
+cassava is planted on mounds, made to protect the plants from the water,
+which stood in places in the village, but we got a dry spot for the
+tent. The people offered us huts. We had as usual a smart shower on the
+way to Kasenga, where we slept. We passed the Islet Luangwa.
+
+_26th March, 1873._--We started at 7.30, and got into a large stream out
+of the Chambezé, called Mabziwa. One canoe sank in it, and we lost a
+slave girl of Amoda. Fished up three boxes, and two guns, but the boxes
+being full of cartridges were much injured; we lost the donkey's saddle
+too. After this mishap we crossed the Lubanseusi, near its confluence
+with the Chambezé, 300 yards wide and three fathoms deep, and a slow
+current. We crossed the Chambezé. It is about 400 yards wide, with a
+quick clear current of two knots, and three fathoms deep, like the
+Lubanseusé; but that was slow in current, but clear also. There is one
+great lock after another, with thick mats of hedges, formed of aquatic
+plants between. The volume of water is enormous. We punted five hours,
+and then camped.
+
+_27th March, 1873._--I sent canoes and men back to Matipa's to bring all
+the men that remained, telling them to ship them at once on arriving,
+and not to make any talk about it. Kabinga keeps his distance from us,
+and food is scarce; at noon he sent a man to salute me in his name.
+
+_28th March, 1873._--Making a pad for a donkey, to serve instead of a
+saddle. Kabinga attempts to sell a sheep at an exorbitant price, and
+says that he is weeping over his dead child. Mabruki Speke's hut caught
+fire at night, and his cartridge box was burned.
+
+_29th March, 1873._--I bought a sheep for 100 strings of beads. I wished
+to begin the exchange by being generous, and told his messenger so; then
+a small quantity of maize was brought, and I grumbled at the meanness of
+the present: there is no use in being bashful, as they are not ashamed
+to grumble too. The man said that Kabinga would send more when he had
+collected it.
+
+_30th March, 1873, Sunday._--A lion roars mightily. The fish-hawk utters
+his weird voice in the morning, as if he lifted up to a friend at a
+great distance, in a sort of falsetto key.
+
+5 P.M. Men returned, but the large canoe having been broken by the
+donkey, we have to go back and pay for it, and take away about twenty
+men now left. Matipa kept all the payment from his own people, and so
+left us in the lurch; thus another five days is lost.
+
+_31st March, 1873._--I sent the men back to Matipa's for all our party.
+I give two dotis to repair the canoe. Islanders are always troublesome,
+from a sense of security in their fastnesses. Made stirrups of thick
+brass wire four-fold; they promise to do well. Sent Kabinga a cloth, and
+a message, but he is evidently a niggard, like Matipa: we must take him
+as we find him, there is no use in growling. Seven of our men returned,
+having got a canoe from one of Matipa's men. Kabinga, it seems, was
+pleased with the cloth, and says that he will ask for maize from his
+people, and buy it for me; he has rice growing. He will send a canoe to
+carry me over the next river.
+
+_3rd April, 1873._--Very heavy rain last night. Six inches fell in a
+short time. The men at last have come from Matipa's.
+
+_4th April, 1873._--Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, and got a fat one
+for 2-1/2 dotis, to give the party a feast ere we start. The kambari
+fish of the Chambezé is three feet three inches in length.
+
+Two others, the "polwé" and "lopatakwao," all go up the Chambezé to
+spawn when the rains begin. Casembe's people make caviare of the spawn
+of the "pumbo."
+
+[The next entry is made in a new pocket-book, numbered XVII. For the
+first few days pen and ink were used, afterwards a well-worn stump of
+pencil, stuck into a steel penholder and attached to a piece of bamboo,
+served his purpose.]
+
+_5th April, 1873._--March from Kabinga's on the Chambezé, our luggage in
+canoes, and men on land. We punted on flood six feet deep, with many
+ant-hills all about, covered with trees. Course S.S.E. for five miles,
+across the River Lobingela, sluggish, and about 300 yards wide.
+
+_6th April, 1873._--Leave in the same way, but men were sent from
+Kabinga to steal the canoes, which we paid his brother Mateysa
+handsomely for. A stupid drummer, beating the alarm in the distance,
+called us inland; we found the main body of our people had gone on, and
+so by this, our party got separated,[31] and we pulled and punted six or
+seven hours S.W. in great difficulty, as the fishermen we saw refused to
+show us where the deep water lay. The whole country S. of the Lake was
+covered with water, thickly dotted over with lotus-leaves and rushes. It
+has a greenish appearance, and it might be well on a map to show the
+spaces annually flooded by a broad wavy band, twenty, thirty, and even,
+forty miles out from the permanent banks of the Lake: it might be
+coloured light green. The broad estuaries fifty or more miles, into
+which the rivers form themselves, might be coloured blue, but it is
+quite impossible at present to tell where land ends, and Lake begins; it
+is all water, water everywhere, which seems to be kept from flowing
+quickly off by the narrow bed of the Luapula, which has perpendicular
+banks, worn deep down in new red sandstone. It is the Nile apparently
+enacting its inundations, even at its sources. The amount of water
+spread out over the country constantly excites my wonder; it is
+prodigious. Many of the ant-hills are cultivated and covered with dura,
+pumpkins, beans, maize, but the waters yield food plenteously in fish
+and lotus-roots. A species of wild rice grows, but the people neither
+need it nor know it. A party of fishermen fled from us, but by coaxing
+we got them to show us deep water. They then showed us an islet, about
+thirty yards square, without wood, and desired us to sleep there. We
+went on, and then they decamped.
+
+Pitiless pelting showers wetted everything; but near sunset we saw two
+fishermen paddling quickly off from an ant-hill, where we found a hut,
+plenty of fish, and some firewood. There we spent the night, and watched
+by turns, lest thieves should come and haul away our canoes and
+goods. Heavy rain. One canoe sank, wetting everything in her. The leaks
+in her had been stopped with clay, and a man sleeping near the stern had
+displaced this frail caulking. We did not touch the fish, and I cannot
+conjecture who has inspired fear in all the inhabitants.
+
+_7th April, 1873._--Went on S.W., and saw two men, who guided us to the
+River Muanakazi, which forms a connecting link between the River
+Lotingila and the Lolotikila, about the southern borders of the flood.
+Men were hunting, and we passed near large herds of antelopes, which
+made a rushing, plunging sound as they ran and sprang away among the
+waters. A lion had wandered into this world of water and ant-hills, and
+roared night and morning, as if very much disgusted: we could sympathise
+with him! Near to the Muanakazi, at a broad bank in shallow water near
+the river, we had to unload and haul. Our guides left us, well pleased
+with the payment we had given them. The natives beating a drum on our
+east made us believe them to be our party, and some thought that they
+heard two shots. This misled us, and we went towards the sound through
+papyrus, tall rushes, arums, and grass, till tired out, and took refuge
+on an ant-hill for the night. Lion roaring. We were lost in stiff grassy
+prairies, from three to four feet deep in water, for five hours. We
+fired a gun in the stillness of the night, but received no answer; so on
+the _8th_ we sent a small canoe at daybreak to ask for information and
+guides from the village where the drums had been beaten. Two men came,
+and they thought likewise that our party was south-east; but in that
+direction the water was about fifteen inches in spots and three feet in
+others, which caused constant dragging of the large canoe all day, and
+at last we unloaded at another branch of the Muanakazi with a village of
+friendly people. We slept there.
+
+All hands at the large canoe could move her only a few feet. Putting
+all their strength to her, she stopped at every haul with a jerk, as if
+in a bank of adhesive plaister. I measured the crown of a papyrus plant
+or palm, it was three feet across horizontally, its stalk eight feet in
+height. Hundreds of a large dark-grey hairy caterpillar have nearly
+cleared off the rushes in spots, and now live on each other. They can
+make only the smallest progress by swimming or rather wriggling in the
+water: their motion is that of a watch-spring thrown down, dilating and
+contracting.
+
+_9th April, 1873._--After two hours' threading the very winding, deep
+channel of this southern branch of the Muanakazi, we came to where our
+land party had crossed it and gone on to Gandochité, a chief on the
+Lolotikila. My men were all done up, so I hired a man to call some of
+his friends to take the loads; but he was stopped by his relations in
+the way, saying, "You ought to have one of the traveller's own people
+with you." He returned, but did not tell us plainly or truly till this
+morning.
+
+[The recent heavy exertions, coupled with constant exposure and extreme
+anxiety and annoyance, no doubt brought on the severe attack which is
+noticed, as we see in the words of the next few days.]
+
+_10th April, 1873._--The headman of the village explained, and we sent
+two of our men, who had a night's rest with the turnagain fellow of
+yesterday. I am pale, bloodless, and; weak from bleeding profusely ever
+since the 31st of March last: an artery gives off a copious stream, and
+takes away my strength. Oh, how I long to be permitted by the Over Power
+to finish my work.
+
+_12th April, 1873._--Cross the Muanakazi. It is about 100 or 130 yards
+broad, and deep. Great loss of _aíµa_ made me so weak I could hardly
+walk, but tottered along nearly two hours, and then lay down quite
+done. Cooked coffee--our last--and went on, but in an hour I was
+compelled to lie down. Very unwilling to be carried, but on being
+pressed I allowed the men to help me along by relays to Chinama, where
+there is much cultivation. We camped in a garden of dura.
+
+_13th April, 1873._--Found that we had slept on the right bank of the
+Lolotikila, a sluggish, marshy-looking river, very winding, but here
+going about south-west. The country is all so very flat that the rivers
+down here are of necessity tortuous. Fish and other food abundant, and
+the people civil and reasonable. They usually partake largely of the
+character of the chief, and this one, Gondochité, is polite. The sky is
+clearing, and the S.E. wind is the lower stratum now. It is the dry
+season well begun. Seventy-three inches is a higher rainfall than has
+been observed anywhere else, even in northern Manyuema; it was lower by
+inches than here far south on the watershed. In fact, this is the very
+heaviest rainfall known in these latitudes; between fifty and sixty is
+the maximum.
+
+One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees, occupying
+quarters of miles in breadth, and these give way to bouga or prairie
+again. The bouga is flooded annually, but its vegetation consists of dry
+land grasses. Other bouga extend out from the Lake up to forty miles,
+and are known by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums,
+rushes of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic subaqueous
+plants which send up their flowers only to fructify in the sun, and then
+sink to ripen one bunch after another. Others, with great
+cabbage-looking leaves, seem to remain always at the bottom. The young
+of fish swarm, and bob in and out from the leaves. A species of soft
+moss grows on most plants, and seems to be good fodder for fishes,
+fitted by hooked or turned-up noses to guide it into their maws.
+
+One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a hook, which
+enables the animal to hold its mouth close to the plant, as it glides up
+or down, sucking in all the soft pulpy food. The superabundance of
+gelatinous nutriment makes these swarmers increase in bulk with
+extraordinary rapidity, and the food supply of the people is plenteous
+in consequence. The number of fish caught by weirs, baskets, and nets
+now, as the waters decline, is prodigious. The fish feel their element
+becoming insufficient for comfort, and retire from one bouga to another
+towards the Lake; the narrower parts are duly prepared by weirs to take
+advantage of their necessities; the sun heat seems to oppress them and
+force them to flee. With the south-east aerial current comes heat and
+sultriness. A blanket is scarcely needed till the early hours of the
+morning, and here, after the turtle doves and cocks give out their
+warning calls to the watchful, the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkable
+voice. It is pitched in a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as if
+he were calling to some one in the other world. Once heard, his weird
+unearthly voice can never be forgotten--it sticks to one through life.
+
+We were four hours in being ferried over the Loitikila, or Lolotikila,
+in four small canoes, and then two hours south-west down its left bank
+to another river, where our camp has been formed. I sent over a present
+to the headman, and a man returned with the information that he was ill
+at another village, but his wife would send canoes to-morrow to transport
+us over and set us on our way to Muanazambamba, south-west, and over
+Lolotikila again.
+
+_14th April, 1873._--At a branch of the Lolotikila.
+
+_15th April, 1873._--Cross Lolotikila again (where it is only fifty
+yards) by canoes, and went south-west an hour. I, being very weak, had
+to be carried part of the way. Am glad of resting; _aíµa_ flow
+copiously last night. A woman, the wife of the chief, gave a present of
+a goat and maize.
+
+_16th April, 1873._--Went south-west two and a half hours, and crossed
+the Lombatwa River of 100 yards in width, rush deep, and flowing fast in
+aquatic vegetation, papyrus, &c., into the Loitikila. In all about three
+hours south-west.
+
+_17th April, 1873._--A tremendous rain after dark burst all our now
+rotten tents to shreds. Went on at 6.35 A.M. for three hours, and I, who
+was suffering severely all night, had to rest. We got water near the
+surface by digging in yellow sand. Three hills now appear in the
+distance. Our course, S.W. three and three-quarter hours to a village on
+the Kazya River. A Nyassa man declared that his father had brought the
+heavy rain of the 16th on us. We crossed three sponges.
+
+_18th April, 1873._--On leaving the village on the Kazya, we forded it
+and found it seventy yards broad, waist to breast deep all over. A large
+weir spanned it, and we went on the lower side of that. Much papyrus and
+other aquatic plants in it. Fish are returning now with the falling
+waters, and are guided into the rush-cones set for them. Crossed two
+large sponges, and I was forced to stop at a village after travelling
+S.W. for two hours: very ill all night, but remembered that the bleeding
+and most other ailments in this land are forms of fever. Took two
+scruple doses of quinine, and stopped it quite.
+
+_19th April, 1873._--A fine bracing S.E. breeze kept me on the donkey
+across a broad sponge and over flats of white sandy soil and much
+cultivation for an hour and a half, when we stopped at a large village
+on the right bank of,[32] and men went over to the chief Muanzambamba to
+ask canoes to cross to-morrow. I am excessively weak, and but for the
+donkey could not move a hundred yards. It is not all pleasure this
+exploration. The Lavusi hills are a relief tothe eye in this flat
+upland. Their forms show an igneous origin. The river Kazya comes from
+them and goes direct into the Lake. No observations now, owing to great
+weakness; I can scarcely hold the pencil, and my stick is a burden. Tent
+gone; the men build a good hut for me and the luggage. S.W. one and a
+half hour.
+
+_20th April, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Cross over the sponge, Moenda, for
+food and to be near the headman of these parts, Moanzambamba. I am
+excessively weak. Village on Moenda sponge, 7 A.M. Cross Lokulu in a
+canoe. The river is about thirty yards broad, very deep, and flowing in
+marshes two knots from S.S.B. to N.N.W. into Lake.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[28] It will be observed that these islets were in reality slight
+eminences standing above water on the flooded plains which border on
+Lake Bangweolo. The men say that the actual deep-water Lake lay away
+to their right, and on being asked why Dr. Livingstone did not make a
+short cut across to the southern shore, they explain that the canoes
+could not live for an hour on the Lake, but were merely suited for
+punting about over the flooded land.--Ed.
+
+[29] Defoe's book, 'Adventures of Captain Singleton,' is alluded to.
+It would almost appear as if Defoe must have come across some unknown
+African traveller who gave him materials for this work.--Ed.
+
+[30] This was written on his last birthday.--ED.
+
+[31] Dr. Livingstone's object was to keep the land party marching
+parallel to him whilst he kept nearer to the Lake in a canoe.--ED.
+
+[32] He leaves room for a name which perhaps in his exhausted state he
+forgot to ascertain.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chumah's additional details. Great agony in his last
+    illness. Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for
+    the Hill of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses
+    the Mohlamo into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at
+    Chitambo's village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller.
+    The last night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The
+    account of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of
+    the men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is
+    dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the
+    men wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation
+    of the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot.
+
+
+[We have now arrived at the last words written in Dr. Livingstone's
+diary: a copy of the two pages in his pocket-book which contains them is,
+by the help of photography, set before the reader. It is evident that he
+was unable to do more than make the shortest memoranda, and to mark on
+the map which he was making the streams which enter the Lake as he
+crossed them. From the _22nd_ to the _27th_ April he had not strength to
+write down anything but the several dates. Fortunately Susi and Chumah
+give a very clear and circumstantial account of every incident which
+occurred on these days, and we shall therefore add what they say, after
+each of the Doctor's entries. He writes:--]
+
+_21st April, 1873._--Tried to ride, but was forced to lie down, and they
+carried me back to vil. exhausted.
+
+[The men explain this entry thus:--This morning the Doctor tried if he
+were strong enough to ride on the donkey, but he had only gone a short
+distance when he fell to the ground utterly exhausted and faint. Susi
+immediately undid his belt and pistol, and picked up his cap which had
+dropped off, while Chumah threw down his gun and ran to stop the men on
+ahead. When he got back the Doctor said, "Chumah, I have lost so much
+blood, there is no more strength left in my legs: you must carry me." He
+was then assisted gently to his shoulders, and, holding the man's head
+to steady himself, was borne back to the village and placed in the hut
+he had so recently left. It was necessary to let the Chief Muanazawamba
+know what had happened, and for this purpose Dr. Livingstone despatched
+a messenger. He was directed to ask him to supply a guide for the next
+day, as he trusted then to have recovered so far as to be able to march:
+the answer was, "Stay as long as you wish, and when you want guides to
+Kalunganjovu's you shall have them."]
+
+_22nd April, 1873._--Carried on kitanda over Buga S.W. 2-1/4.[33]
+
+[His servants say that instead of rallying, they saw that his strength
+was becoming less and less, and in order to carry him they made a
+kitanda of wood, consisting of two side pieces of seven feet in length,
+crossed with rails three feet long, and about four inches apart, the
+whole lashed strongly together. This framework was covered with grass,
+and a blanket laid on it. Slung from a pole, and borne between two
+strong men, it made a tolerable palanquin, and on this the exhausted
+traveller was conveyed to the next village through a flooded grass
+plain. To render the kitanda more comfortable another blanket was
+suspended across the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and allow
+the air to pass under whilst the sun's rays were fended off fromthe
+sick man. The start was deferred this morning until the dew was off the
+heads of the long grass sufficiently to ensure his being kept tolerably
+dry.
+
+The excruciating pains of his dysenteric malady caused him the greatest
+exhaustion as they marched, and they were glad enough to reach another
+village in 2-1/4 hours, having travelled S.W. from the last point. Here
+another hut was built. The name of the halting-place is not remembered
+by the men, for the villagers fled at their approach; indeed the noise
+made by the drums sounding the alarm had been caught by the Doctor some
+time before, and he exclaimed with thankfulness on hearing it, "Ah, now
+we are near!" Throughout this day the following men acted as bearers of
+the kitanda: Chowpéré, Songolo, Chumah, and Adiamberi. Sowféré, too,
+joined in at one time.]
+
+_23rd April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[They advanced another hour and a half through the same expanse of
+flooded treeless waste, passing numbers of small fish-weirs set in such
+a manner as to catch the fish on their way back to the Lake, but seeing
+nothing of the owners, who had either hidden themselves or taken to
+flight on the approach of the caravan. Another village afforded them a
+night's shelter, but it seems not to be known by any particular name.]
+
+_24th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[But one hour's march was accomplished to-day, and again they halted
+amongst some huts--place unknown. His great prostration made progress
+exceedingly painful, and frequently when it was necessary to stop the
+bearers of the kitanda, Chumah had to support the Doctor from falling.]
+
+_25th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[In an hour's course S.W. they arrived at a village in which they found
+a few people. Whilst his servants were busy completing the hut for the
+night's encampment, the Doctor, who was lying in a shady place on the
+kitanda, ordered them to fetch one of the villagers. The chief of the
+place had disappeared, but the rest of his people seemed quite at their
+ease, and drew near to hear what was going to be said. They were asked
+whether they knew of a hill on which four rivers took their rise. The
+spokesman answered that they had no knowledge of it; they themselves,
+said he, were not travellers, and all those who used to go on trading
+expeditions were now dead. In former years Malenga's town, Kutchinyama,
+was the assembling place of the Wabisa traders, but these had been swept
+off by the Mazitu. Such as survived had to exist as best they could
+amongst the swamps and inundated districts around the Lake. Whenever an
+expedition was organised to go to the coast, or in any other direction,
+travellers met at Malenga's town to talk over the route to be taken:
+then would have been the time, said they, to get information about every
+part. Dr. Livingstone was here obliged to dismiss them, and explained
+that he was too ill to continue talking, but he begged them to bring as
+much food as they could for sale to Kalunganjovu's.]
+
+_26th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[They proceeded as far as Kalunganjovu's town, the chief himself coming
+to meet them on the way dressed in Arab costume and wearing a red fez.
+Whilst waiting here Susi was instructed to count over the bags of beads,
+and, on reporting that twelve still remained in stock, Dr. Livingstone
+told him to buy two large tusks if an opportunity occurred, as he might
+run short of goods by the time they got to Ujiji, and could then
+exchange them with the Arabs there for cloth, to spend on their way to
+Zanzibar.]
+
+To-day, the _27th April, 1873,_ he seems to have been almost dying. No
+entry at all was made in his diary after that which follows, and it must
+have taxed him to the utmost to write:--
+
+"Knocked up quite, and remain--recover--sent to buy milch goats. We are
+on the banks of the Molilamo."
+
+They are the last words that David Livingstone wrote.
+
+From this point we have to trust entirely to the narrative of the men.
+They explain the above sentence as follows: Salimané, Amisi, Hamsani,
+and Laedé, accompanied by a guide, were sent off to endeavour if
+possible to buy some milch goats on the upper part of the Molilamo.[34]
+They could not, however, succeed; it was always the same story--the
+Mazitu had taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, sent a substantial
+present of a kid and three baskets of ground-nuts, and the people were
+willing enough to exchange food for beads. Thinking he could eat some
+Mapira corn pounded up with ground-nuts, the Doctor gave instructions to
+the two women M'sozi and M'toweka, to prepare it for him, but he was not
+able to take it when they brought it to him.
+
+_28th April, 1873._--Men were now despatched in an opposite direction,
+that is to visit the villages on the right bank of the Molilamo as it
+flows to the Lake; unfortunately they met with no better result, and
+returned empty handed.
+
+On the _29th April_, Kalunganjovu and most of his people came early to
+the village. The chief wished to assist his guest to the utmost, and
+stated that as he could not be sure that a sufficient number of canoes
+would be forthcoming unless he took charge of matters himself, he should
+accompany the caravan to the crossing place, which was about an hour's
+march from the spot. "Everything should be done for his friend," he
+said.
+
+They were ready to set out. On Susi's going to the hut, Dr. Livingstone
+told him that he was quite unable to walk to the door to reach the
+kitanda, and he wished the men to break down one side of the little
+house, as the entrance was too narrow to admit it, and in this manner to
+bring it to him where he was: this was done, and he was gently placed
+upon it, and borne out of the village.
+
+Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they followed it
+till they came to a reach where the current was uninterrupted by the
+numerous little islands which stood partly in the river and partly in
+the flood on the upper waters. Kalunganjovu was seated on a knoll, and
+actively superintended the embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone told his
+bearers to take him to a tree at a little distance off, that he might
+rest in the shade till most of the men were on the other side. A good
+deal of care was required, for the river, by no means a large one in
+ordinary times, spread its waters in all directions, so that a false
+step, or a stumble in any unseen hole, would have drenched the invalid
+and the bed also on which he was carried.
+
+The passage occupied some time, and then came the difficult task of
+conveying the Doctor across, for the canoes were not wide enough to
+allow the kitanda to be deposited in the bottom of either of them.
+Hitherto, no matter how weak, Livingstone had always been able to sit in
+the various canoes they had used on like occasions, but now he had no
+power to do so. Taking his bed off the kitanda, they laid it in the
+bottom of the strongest canoe, and tried to lift him; but he could not
+bear the pain of a hand being passed under his back. Beckoning to
+Chumah, in a faint voice he asked him to stoop down over him as low as
+possible, so that he might clasp his hands together behind his head,
+directing him at the same how to avoid putting any pressure on the
+lumbar region of the back; in this way he was deposited in the bottom of
+the canoe, and quickly ferried across the Mulilamo by Chowpéré, Susi,
+Farijala, and Chumah. The same precautions were used on the other side:
+the kitanda was brought close to the canoe, so as to prevent any
+unnecessary pain in disembarking.
+
+Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo's village, and superintend
+the building of another house. For the first mile or two they had to
+carry the Doctor through swamps and plashes, glad to reach something
+like a dry plain at last.
+
+It would seem that his strength was here at its very lowest ebb. Chumah,
+one of his bearers on these the last weary miles the great traveller was
+destined to accomplish, says that they were every now and then implored
+to stop and place their burden on the ground. So great were the pangs of
+his disease during this day that he could make no attempt to stand, and
+if lifted for a few yards a drowsiness came over him, which alarmed them
+all excessively. This was specially the case at one spot where a tree
+stood in the path. Here one of his attendants was called to him, and, on
+stooping down, he found him unable to speak from faintness. They
+replaced him in the kitanda, and made the best of their way on the
+journey. Some distance further on great thirst oppressed him; he asked
+them if they had any water, but, unfortunately for once, not a drop was
+to be procured. Hastening on for fear of getting too far separated from
+the party in advance, to their great comfort they now saw Farijala
+approaching with some which Susi had thoughtfully sent off from
+Chitambo's village.
+
+Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would not complete
+their task, for again at a clearing the sick man entreated them to place
+him on the ground, and to let him stay where he was. Fortunately at this
+moment some of the outlying huts of the village came in sight, and they
+tried to rally him by telling him that he would quickly be in the house
+that the others had gone on to build, but they were obliged as it was to
+allow him to remain for an hour in the native gardens outside the town.
+
+On reaching their companions it was found that the work was not quite
+finished, and it became necessary therefore to lay him under the broad
+eaves of a native hut till things were ready.
+
+Chitambo's village at this time was almost empty. When the crops are
+growing it is the custom to erect little temporary houses in the fields,
+and the inhabitants, leaving their more substantial huts, pass the time
+in watching their crops, which are scarcely more safe by day than by
+night; thus it was that the men found plenty of room and shelter ready
+to their hand. Many of the people approached the spot where he lay whose
+praises had reached them in previous years, and in silent wonder they
+stood round him resting on their bows. Slight drizzling showers were
+falling, and as soon as possible his house was made ready and banked
+round with earth.
+
+Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and grass,
+occuping a position across and near to the bay-shaped end of the hut: in
+the bay itself bales and boxes were deposited, one of the latter doing
+duty for a table, on which the medicine chest and sundry other things
+were placed. A fire was lighted outside, nearly opposite the door,
+whilst the boy Majwara slept just within to attend to his master's wants
+in the night.
+
+On the _30th April, 1873,_ Chitambo came early to pay a visit of
+courtesy, and was shown into the Doctor's presence, but he was obliged
+to send him away, telling him to come again on the morrow, when he hoped
+to have more strength to talk to him, and he was not again disturbed. In
+the afternoon he asked Susi to bring his watch to the bedside, and
+explained to him the position in which to hold his hand, that it might
+lie in the palm whilst he slowly turned the key.
+
+So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently took to their
+huts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep watch, sat round the
+fires, all feeling that the end could not be far off. About 11 P.M.
+Susi, whose hut was close by, was told to go to his master. At the time
+there were loud shouts in the distance, and, on entering, Dr.
+Livingstone said, "Are our men making that noise?" "No," replied Susi;
+"I can hear from the cries that the people are scaring away a buffalo
+from their dura fields." A few minutes afterwards he said slowly, and
+evidently wandering, "Is this the Luapula?" Susi told him they were in
+Chitambo's village, near the Mulilamo, when he was silent for a while.
+Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he said, "Sikun'gapi
+kuenda Luapula?" (How many days is it to the Luapula?)
+
+"Na zani zikutatu, Bwana" (I think it is three days, master), replied
+Susi.
+
+A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed, half said, "Oh
+dear, dear!" and then dozed off again.
+
+It was about an hour later that Susi heard Majwara again outside the
+door, "Bwana wants you, Susi." On reaching the bed the Doctor told him
+he wished him to boil some water, and for this purpose he went to the
+fire outside, and soon returned with the copper kettle full. Calling him
+close, he asked him to bring his medicine-chest and to hold the candle
+near him, for the man noticed he could hardly see. With great difficulty
+Dr. Livingstone selected the calomel, which he told him to place by his
+side; then, directing him to pour a little water into a cup, and to put
+another empty one by it, he said in a low feeble voice, "All right; you
+can go out now." These were the last words he was ever heard to speak.
+
+It must have been about 4 A.M. when Susi heard Majwara's step once
+more. "Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don't know if he is alive." The
+lad's evident alarm made Susi run to arouse Chumah, Chowperé, Matthew,
+and Muanyaséré, and the six men went immediately to the hut.
+
+Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Livingstone was not
+lying on it, but appeared to be engaged in prayer, and they
+instinctively drew backwards for the instant. Pointing to him, Majwara
+said, "When I lay down he was just as he is now, and it is because I
+find that he does not move that I fear he is dead." They asked the lad
+how long he had slept? Majwara said he could not tell, but he was sure
+that it was some considerable time: the men drew nearer.
+
+A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box, shed a light
+sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Livingstone was kneeling by the
+side of his bed, his body stretched forward, his head buried in his
+hands upon the pillow. For a minute they watched him: he did not stir,
+there was no sign of breathing; then one of them, Matthew, advanced
+softly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was sufficient;
+life had been extinct some time, and the body was almost cold:
+Livingstone was dead.
+
+His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up, and laid him full
+length on the bed, then, carefully covering him, they went out into the
+damp night air to consult together. It was not long before the cocks
+crew, and it is from this circumstance--coupled with the fact that Susi
+spoke to him some time shortly before midnight--that we are able to
+state with tolerable certainty that he expired early on the 1st of May.
+
+It has been thought best to give the narrative of these closing hours as
+nearly as possible in the words of the two men who attended him
+constantly, both here and in the many illnesses of like character which
+he endured in his last six years' wanderings; in fact from the first
+moment of the news arriving in England, it was felt to be indispensable
+that they should come home to state what occurred.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The men have much to consider as they cower around the watch-fire, and
+little time for deliberation. They are at their furthest point from home
+and their leader has fallen at their head; we shall see presently how
+they faced their difficulties.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Several inquiries will naturally arise on reading this distressing
+history; the foremost, perhaps, will be with regard to the entire
+absence of everything like a parting word to those immediately about
+him, or a farewell line to his family and friends at home. It must be
+very evident to the reader that Livingstone entertained very grave
+forebodings about his health during the last two years of his life, but
+it is not clear that he realized the near approach of death when his
+malady suddenly passed into a more dangerous stage.
+
+It may be said, "Why did he not take some precautions or give some
+strict injunctions to his men to preserve his note-books and maps, at
+all hazards, in the event of his decease? Did not his great ruling
+passion suggest some such precaution?"
+
+Fair questions, but, reader, you have all--every word written, spoken,
+or implied.
+
+Is there, then, no explanation? Yes; we think past experience affords
+it, and it is offered to you by one who remembers moreover how
+Livingstone himself used to point out to him in Africa the peculiar
+features of death by malarial poisoning.
+
+In full recollection of eight deaths in the Zambesi and Shiré districts,
+not a single parting word or direction in any instance can be recalled.
+Neither hope nor courage give way as death approaches. In most cases a
+comatose state of exhaustion supervenes, which, if it be not quickly
+arrested by active measures, passes into complete insensibility: this is
+almost invariably the closing scene.
+
+In Dr. Livingstone's case we find some departure from the ordinary
+symptoms.[35] He, as we have seen by the entry of the 18th April was
+alive to the conviction that malarial poison is the basis of every
+disorder in Tropical Africa, and he did not doubt but that he was fully
+under its influence whilst suffering so severely. As we have said, a man
+of less endurance in all probability would have perished in the first
+week of the terrible approach to the Lake, through the flooded country
+and under the continual downpour that he describes. It tried every
+constitution, saturated every man with fever poison, and destroyed
+several, as we shall see a little further on. The greater vitality in
+his iron system very likely staved off for a few days the last state of
+coma to which we refer, but there is quite sufficient to show us that
+only a thin margin lay between the heavy drowsiness of the last few days
+before reaching Chitambo's and the final and usual symptom that brings
+on unconsciousness and inability to speak.
+
+On more closely questioning the men one only elicits that they imagine
+he hoped to recover as he had so often done before, and if this really
+was the case it will in a measure account for the absence of anything
+like a dying statement, but still they speak again and again of his
+drowsiness, which in itself would take away all ability to realize
+vividly the seriousness of the situation. It may be that at the last a
+flash of conviction for a moment lit up the mind--if so, what greater
+consolation can those have who mourn his loss, than the account that the
+men give of what they saw when they entered the hut?
+
+Livingstone had not merely turned himself, he had risento pray; he
+still rested on his knees, his hands were clasped under his head: when
+they approached him he seemed to live. He had not fallen to right or
+left when he rendered up his spirit to God. Death required no change of
+limb or position; there was merely the gentle settling forwards of the
+frame unstrung by pain, for the Traveller's perfect rest had come. Will
+not time show that the men were scarcely wrong when they thought "he yet
+speaketh"--aye, perhaps far more clearly to us than he could have done
+by word or pen or any other means!
+
+Is it, then, presumptuous to think that the long-used fervent prayer of
+the wanderer sped forth once more--that the constant supplication became
+more perfect in weakness, and that from his "loneliness" David
+Livingstone, with a dying effort, yet again besought Him for whom He
+laboured to break down the oppression and woe of the land?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Before daylight the men were quietly told in each hut what had happened,
+and that they were to assemble. Coming together as soon as it was light
+enough to see, Susi and Chumah said that they wished everybody to be
+present whilst the boxes were opened, so that in case money or valuables
+were in them, all might be responsible. Jacob Wainwright (who could
+write, they knew) was asked to make some notes which should serve as an
+inventory, and then the boxes were brought out from the hut.
+
+Before he left England in 1865, Dr. Livingstone arranged that his
+travelling equipment should be as compact as possible. An old friend
+gave him some exceedingly well-made tin-boxes, two of which lasted out
+the whole of his travels. In these his papers and instruments were safe
+from wet and from white ants, which have to be guarded against more than
+anything else. Besides the articles mentioned below, a number of letters
+and despatches in various stages were likewise enclosed, and one can
+never sufficiently extol the good feeling which after his death
+invested all these writings with something like a sacred care in the
+estimation of his men. It was the Doctor's custom to carry a small
+metallic note-book in his pocket: a quantity of these have come to hand
+filled from end to end, and as the men preserved every one that they
+found, we have a daily entry to fall back upon. Nor was less care shown
+for his rifles, sextants, his Bible and Church-service, and the medicine
+chest.
+
+Jacob's entry is as follows, and it was thoughtfully made at the back
+end of the same note-book that was in use by the Doctor when he died. It
+runs as follows:--
+
+"11 o'clock night, 28th April.
+
+"In the chest was found about a shilling and half, and in other chest
+his hat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of measuring instrument, and in each
+box there was one. 1 compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument. 4
+other kind of measuring instrument. And in other chest 3 drachmas and
+half half scrople."
+
+A word is necessary concerning the first part of this. It will be
+observed that Dr. Livingstone made his last note on the 27th April.
+Jacob, referring to it as the only indication of the day of the month,
+and fancying, moreover, that it was written on the _preceding day,_
+wrote down "28th April." Had he observed that the few words opposite the
+27th in the pocket-book related to the stay at Kalunganjovu's village,
+and not to any portion of the time at Chitambo's, the error would have
+been avoided. Again, with respect to the time. It was about 11 o'clock
+P.M. when Susi last saw his master alive, and therefore this time is
+noted, but both he and Chumah feel quite sure, from what Majwara said,
+that death did not take place till some hours after.
+
+It was not without some alarm that the men realised their more
+immediate difficulties: none could see better than they what
+complications might arise in an hour.
+
+They knew the superstitious horror connected with the dead to be
+prevalent in the tribes around them, for the departed spirits of men are
+universally believed to have vengeance and mischief at heart as their
+ruling idea in the land beyond the grave. All rites turn on this belief.
+The religion of the African is a weary attempt to propitiate those who
+show themselves to be still able to haunt and destroy, as war comes or
+an accident happens.
+
+On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief and people make
+common cause against those who wander through their territory, and have
+the misfortune to lose one of their party by death. Who is to tell the
+consequences? Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences,
+and the men regarded their position with no small apprehension.
+
+Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chumah placed the state of
+affairs before them, and asked what should be done. They received a
+reply from those whom Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, which
+was hearty and unanimous. "You," said they, "are old men in travelling
+and in hardships; you must act as our chiefs, and we will promise to
+obey whatever you order us to do." From this moment we may look on Susi
+and Chumah as the Captains of the caravan. To their knowledge of the
+country, of the tribes through which they were to pass, but, above all,
+to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was maintained throughout,
+their safe return to Zanzibar at the head of their men must, under God's
+good guidance, be mainly attributed.
+
+All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance of Dr.
+Livingstone's decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy would be inflicted
+upon them as compensation for damage done that their means would be
+crippled, and they could hardly expect to pay their way to the coast. It
+was decided that, come what might, the body _must be borne to Zanzibar._
+It was also arranged to take it secretly, if possible, to a hut at some
+distance off, where the necessary preparations could be carried out, and
+for this purpose some men were now despatched with axes to cut wood,
+whilst others went to collect grass. Chumah set off to see Chitambo, and
+said that they wanted to build a place outside the village, if he would
+allow it, for they did not like living amongst the huts. His consent was
+willingly given.
+
+Later on in the day two of the men went to the people to buy food, and
+divulged the secret: the chief was at once informed of what had
+happened, and started for the spot on which the new buildings were being
+set up. Appealing to Chumah, he said, "Why did you not tell me the
+truth? I know that your master died last night. You were afraid to let
+me know, but do not fear any longer. I, too, have travelled, and more
+than once have been to Bwani (the Coast), before the country on the road
+was destroyed by the Mazitu. I know that you have no bad motives in
+coming to our land, and death often happens to travellers in their
+journeys." Reassured by this speech, they told him of their intention to
+prepare the body and to take it with them. He, however, said it would be
+far better to bury it there, for they were undertaking an impossible
+task; but they held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to the
+new hut the same day on the kitanda carefully covered with cloth and a
+blanket.
+
+_2nd May, 1873._--The next morning Susi paid a visit to Chitambo, making
+him a handsome present and receiving in return a kind welcome. It is
+only right to add, that the men speak on all occasions with gratitude of
+Chitambo's conduct throughout, and say that he is a fine generous
+fellow. Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all honours
+should be shown to the dead, and the customary mourning was arranged
+forthwith.
+
+At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people, and accompanied by his
+wives, came to the new settlement. He was clad in a broad red cloth,
+which covered the shoulders, whilst the wrapping of native cotton cloth,
+worn round the waist, fell as low as his ankles. All carried bows,
+arrows, and spears, but no guns were seen. Two drummers joined in the
+loud wailing lamentation, which so indelibly impresses itself on the
+memories of people who have heard it in the East, whilst the band of
+servants fired volley after volley in the air, according to the strict
+rule of Portuguese and Arabs on such occasions.
+
+As yet nothing had been done to the corpse.
+
+A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the principal one.
+It was constructed in such a manner that it should be open to the air at
+the top, and sufficiently strong to defy the attempts of any wild beast
+to break through it. Firmly driven boughs and saplings were planted side
+by side and bound together, so as to make a regular stockade. Close to
+this building the men constructed their huts, and, finally, the whole
+settlement had another high stockade carried completely around it.
+
+Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse on the following
+morning. One of the men, Saféné, whilst in Kalunganjovu's district,
+bought a large quantity of salt: this was purchased of him for sixteen
+strings of beads, there was besides some brandy in the Doctor's stores,
+and with these few materials they hoped to succeed in their object.
+
+Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had picked up some
+knowledge of the method pursued in making _post-mortem_ examinations,
+whilst a servant to a doctor at Zanzibar, and at his request, Carras,
+one of the Nassick boys, was told off to assist him. Previous to this,
+however, early on the 3rd May, a special mourner arrived. He came with
+the anklets which are worn on these occasions, composed of rows of
+hollow seed-vessels, fitted with rattling pebbles, and in low monotonous
+chant sang, whilst he danced, as follows:
+
+    Lélo kwa Engérésé,
+    Muana sisi oa konda:
+    Tu kamb' tamb' Engérésé.
+
+    which translated is--
+
+    To-day the Englishman is dead,
+    Who has different hair from ours:
+    Come round to see the Englishman.
+
+His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied him in the
+ceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads.
+
+The emaciated remains of the deceased traveller were soon afterwards
+taken to the place prepared. Over the heads of Farijala and
+Carras--Susi, Chumah, and Muanyaséré held a thick blanket as a kind of
+screen, under which the men performed their duties. Tofiké and John
+Wainwright were present. Jacob Wainwright had been asked to bring his
+Prayer Book with him, and stood apart against the wall of the enclosure.
+
+In reading about the lingering sufferings of Dr. Livingstone as
+described by himself, and subsequently by these faithful fellows, one is
+quite prepared to understand their explanation, and to see why it was
+possible to defer these operations so long after death: they say that
+his frame was little more than skin and bone. Through an incision
+carefully made, the viscera were removed, and a quantity of salt was
+placed in the trunk. All noticed one very significant circumstance in
+the autopsy. A clot of coagulated blood, as large as a man's hand, lay
+in the left side,[36] whilst Farijalapointed to the state of the lungs,
+which they describe as dried up, and covered with black and white
+patches.
+
+The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed in a tin box, which
+had formerly contained flour, and decently and reverently buried in a
+hole dug some four feet deep on the spot where they stood. Jacob was
+then asked to read the Burial Service, which he did in the presence of
+all. The body was left to be fully exposed to the sun. No other means
+were taken to preserve it, beyond placing some brandy in the mouth and
+some on the hair; nor can one imagine for an instant that any other
+process would have been available either for Europeans or natives,
+considering the rude appliances at their disposal. The men kept watch
+day and night to see that no harm came to their sacred charge. Their
+huts surrounded the building, and had force been used to enter its
+strongly-barred door, the whole camp would have turned out in a moment.
+Once a day the position of the body was changed, but at no other time
+was any one allowed to approach it.
+
+No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen days'
+exposure. At the end of this period preparations were made for retracing
+their steps. The corpse, by this time tolerably dried, was wrapped round
+in some calico, the leg being bent inwards at the knees to shorten the
+package. The next thing was to plan something in which to carry it, and,
+in the absence of planking or tools, an admirable substitute was found
+by stripping from a Myonga tree enough of the bark in one piece to form
+a cylinder, and in it their master was laid. Over this case a piece of
+sailcloth was sewn, and the whole package was lashed securely to a pole,
+so as to be carried by two men.
+
+Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription on the large Mvula
+tree which stands by the place where the body rested, stating the name
+of Dr. Livingstone and the date of his death, and, before leaving, the
+men gave strict injunctions to Chitambo to keep the grass cleared away,
+so as to save it from the bush-fires which annually sweep over the
+country and destroy so many trees. Besides this, they erected close to
+the spot two high thick posts, with an equally strong cross-piece, like
+a lintel and door-posts in form, which they painted thoroughly with the
+tar that was intended for the boat: this sign they think will remain for
+a long time from the solidity of the timber. Before parting with
+Chitambo, they gave him a large tin biscuit-box and some newspapers,
+which would serve as evidence to all future travellers that a white man
+had been at his village.
+
+The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the tree and the
+timber sign-posts from being touched, but added, that he hoped the
+English would not be long in coming to see him, because there was always
+the risk of an invasion of Mazitu, when he would have to fly, and the
+tree might be cut down for a canoe by some one, and then all trace would
+be lost. All was now ready for starting.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[33] Two hours and a quarter in a south-westerly direction.
+
+[34] The name Molilamo is allowed to stand, but in Dr. Livingstone's
+Map we find it Lulimala, and the men confirm, this pronunciation.--ED.
+
+[35] The great loss of blood may have had a bearing on the case.
+
+[36] It has been suggested by one who attended Dr. Livingstone
+professionally in several dangerous illnesses in Africa, that the
+ultimate cause of death was acute splenitis.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'Kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembé. Chumah
+    meets Lieutenant Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding
+    remarks.
+
+
+The homeward march was then begun. Throughout its length we shall
+content ourselves with giving the approximate number of days occupied in
+travelling and halting. Although the memories of both men are
+excellent--standing the severest test when they are tried by the light
+of Dr. Livingstone's journals, or "set on" at any passage of his
+travels--they kept no precise record of the time spent at villages where
+they were detained by sickness, and so the exactness of a diary can no
+longer be sustained.
+
+To return to the caravan. They found on this the first day's journey
+that some other precautions were necessary to enable the bearers of the
+mournful burden to keep to their task. Sending to Chitambo's village,
+they brought thence the cask of tar which they had deposited with the
+chief, and gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This answered
+all purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, with orders
+to send it back to head-quarters, and then continued their course
+through Ilala, led by their guides in the direction of the Luapula.
+
+A moment's inspection of the map will explain the line of country to be
+traversed. Susi and Chumah had travelled with Dr. Livingstone in the
+neighbourhood of the north-west shores of Bangweolo in previous years.
+The last fatal road from the north might be struck by a march in a due
+N.E. direction, if they could but hold out so far without any serious
+misfortune; but in order to do this they must first strike northwards so
+as to reach the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part not
+necessarily far from its exit from the Lake, they could at once lay
+their course for the south end of Tanganyika.
+
+There were, however, serious indications amongst them. First one and
+then the other dropped out of the file, and by the time they reached a
+town belonging to Chitambo's brother--and on the third day only since
+they set out--half their number were _hors de combat_. It was impossible
+to go on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The symptoms were
+intense pain in the limbs and face, great prostration, and, in the bad
+cases, inability to move. The men attributed it to the continual wading
+through water before the Doctor's death. They think that illness had
+been waiting for some further slight provocation, and that the previous
+days' tramp, which was almost entirely through plashy Bougas or swamps,
+turned the scale against them.
+
+Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one leg, and then
+quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly died. Kaniki and Bahati,
+two of the women, expired in a few days, and all looked at its worst. It
+took them a good month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey.
+
+Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and the natives
+day by day brought an abundance of food to the sick men. From them they
+heard that the districts they were now in were notoriously unhealthy,
+and that many an Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave his
+bones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an excursion to
+the westward, and on their return reported a large deep river flowing
+into the Luapula on the left bank. Unfortunately no notice was taken of
+its name, for it would be of considerable geographical interest.
+
+At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of the border
+villages in Ilala the same night, but the next day several fell ill for
+the second time, Susi being quite unable to move.
+
+Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, was fully aware of
+everything that had taken place at Chitambo's, and showed the men the
+greatest kindness. Not a day passed without his bringing them some
+present or other, but there was a great disinclination amongst the
+people to listen to any details connected with Dr. Livingstone's death.
+Some return for their kindness was made by Farijala shooting three
+buffaloes near the town: meat and goodwill go together all over Africa,
+and the liberal sportsman scores points at many a turn. A cow was
+purchased here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twentieth
+day all were sufficiently strong on their legs to push forwards.
+
+The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon hove in sight.
+Putting themselves under a guide, they were conducted to the village of
+Chisalamalama, who willingly offered them canoes for the passage across
+the next day.[37]
+
+As one listens to the report that the men give of this mighty river, he
+instinctively bends his eyes on a dark burden laid in the canoe! How
+ardently would he have scanned it whose body thus passes across these
+waters, and whose spirit, in its last hours' sojourn in this world,
+wandered in thought and imagination to its stream!
+
+It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the width of the
+Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of fully four miles. A man
+could not be seen on the opposite bank: trees looked small: a gun could
+be heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across the
+river--such is the description given by men who were well able to
+compare the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they were
+able to use the "m'phondo," or punting pole, for a distance through
+reeds, then came clear deep water for some four hundred yards, again a
+broad reedy expanse, followed by another deep part, succeeded in turn by
+another current not so broad as those previously paddled across, and
+then, as on the starting side, gradually shoaling water, abounding in
+reeds. Two islands lay just above the crossing-place. Using pole and
+paddle alternately, the passage took them fully two hours across this
+enormous torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo towards the
+north.
+
+A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping beyond the
+Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant was doomed to end
+his career at this spot!
+
+According to custom, a special stable was built for him close to the
+men. In the middle of the night a great disturbance, coupled with the
+shouting of Amoda, aroused the camp. The men rushed out and found the
+stable broken down and the donkey gone. Snatching, some logs, they set
+fire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a lion
+close to the body of the poor animal, which was quite dead. Those who
+had caught up their guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and the
+lion made off. It was evident that the donkey had been seized by the
+nose, and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the guns
+had taken effect. The lion's blood lay in a broad track (for he was
+apparently injured in the back, and could only drag himself along); but
+the footprints of a second lion were too plain to make it advisable to
+track him far in the thick cover he had reached, and so the search was
+abandoned. The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes
+remained near the village, and it is most probable that it went to make
+a feast at Chisalamalama's.
+
+[Illustration: An old Servant destroyed.]
+
+Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were fain to make
+their next stopping-place in a spot where an enormous ant-hill spread
+itself out,--a small island in the waters. A fire was lit, and by
+employing hoes, most of them dug something like a form to sleep in on
+the hard earth.
+
+Thankful to leave such a place, their guide led them next day to the
+village of Kawinga, whom they describe as a tall man, of singularly
+light colour, and the owner of a gun, a unique weapon in these parts,
+but one already made useless by wear and tear. The next village,
+N'kossu's, was much more important. The people, called Kawendé, formerly
+owned plenty of cattle, but now they are reduced: the Banyamwesi have
+put them under the harrow, and but few herds remain. We may call
+attention to the somewhat singular fact, that the hump quite disappears
+in the Lake breed; the cows would pass for respectable shorthorns.[38]
+
+A present was made to the caravan of a cow; but it seems that the rule,
+"first catch your hare," is in full force in N'kossu's pastures. The
+animals are exceedingly wild, and a hunt has to be set on foot whenever
+beef is wanted; it was so in this case. Saféné and Muanyaséré with their
+guns essayed to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old hunter as we
+have seen, was not likely to do much harm; but Saféné, firing wildly at
+the cow, hit one of the villagers, and smashed the bone of the poor
+fellow's thigh. Although it was clearly an accident, such things do not
+readily settle themselves down on this assumption in Africa. The chief,
+however, behaved very well. He told them a fine would have to be paid on
+the return of the wounded man's father, and it had better be handed to
+him, for by law the blame would fall on him, as the entertainer of the
+man who had brought about the injury. He admitted that he had ordered
+all his people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred,
+but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been heard.
+They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond to the demand; the
+process adopted to set the broken limb is a sample of native surgery,
+which must not be passed over.
+
+[Illustration: Kawendé Surgery.]
+
+First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in length, in
+such a manner that the patient could sit in it with his legs out before
+him. A large leaf was then bound round the fractured thigh, and earth
+thrown in, so that the patient was buried up to the chest. The next act
+was to cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick layer
+of mud; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire lit
+on the top directly over the fracture. To prevent the smoke smothering
+the sufferer, they held a tall mat as a screen before his face, and the
+operation went on. After some time the heat reached the limbs
+underground. Bellowing with fear and covered with perspiration, the man
+implored them to let him out. The authorities concluding that he had
+been under treatment a sufficient time, quickly burrowed down and lifted
+him from the hole. He was now held perfectly fast, whilst two strong men
+stretched the wounded limb with all their might! Splints, duly prepared
+were afterwards bound round it, and we must hope that in due time
+benefit accrued, but as the ball had passed through the limb, we must
+have our doubts on the subject. The villagers told Chuma that after the
+Wanyamwesi engagements they constantly treated bad gunshot-wounds in
+this way with perfect success.
+
+Leaving N'kossu's, they rested one night at another village belonging to
+him, and then made for the territory of the Wa Ussi. Here they met with
+a surly welcome, and were told they must pass on. No doubt the
+intelligence that they were carrying their master's body had a great
+deal to do with it, for the news seemed to spread with the greatest
+rapidity in all directions. Three times they camped in the forest, and
+for a wonder began to find some dry ground. The path lay in the direct
+line of Chawendé's town, parallel to the north shore of the Lake, and at
+no great distance from it.
+
+Some time previously a solitary Unyamwesi had attached himself to the
+party at Chitankooi's, where he had been left sick by a passing caravan
+of traders: this man now assured them the country before them was well
+known to him.
+
+Approaching Chawendé's, according to native etiquette, Amoda and Sabouri
+went on in front to inform the chief, and to ask leave to enter his
+town. As they did not come back, Muanyaséré and Chuma set off after
+them to ascertain the reason of the delay. No better success seemed to
+attend this second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all went
+forward in the track of the four messengers.
+
+In the mean time, Chuma and Muanyaséré met Amoda and Sabouri coming back
+towards them with five men. They reported that they had entered the
+town, but found it a very large stockaded place; moreover, two other
+villages of equal size were close to it. Much pombe drinking was going
+on. On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his gun against the
+principal hut innocently enough. Chawendé's son, drunk and quarrelsome,
+made this a cause of offence, and swaggering up, he insolently asked
+them how they dared to do such a thing. Chawendé interfered, and for the
+moment prevented further disagreeables; in fact, he himself seems to
+have been inclined to grant the favour which was asked: however, there
+was danger brewing, and the men retired.
+
+When the main body met them returning, tired with their fruitless
+errand, a consultation took place. Wood there was none. To scatter about
+and find materials with which to build shelter for the night, would only
+offer a great temptation to these drunken excited people to plunder the
+baggage. It was resolved to make for the town.
+
+When they reached the gate of the stockade they were flatly refused
+admittance, those inside telling them to go down to the river and camp
+on the bank. They replied that this was impossible: that they were
+tired, it was very late, and nothing could be found there to give them
+shelter. Meeting with no different answer, Saféné said, "Why stand
+talking to them? let us get in somehow or other;" and, suiting the
+action to the word, they pushed the men back who stood in the gateway.
+Saféné got through, and Muanyaséré climbed over the top of the stockade,
+followed by Chuma, who instantly opened the gate wide and let his
+companions through. Hostilities might still have been averted had
+better counsel prevailed.
+
+The men began to look about for huts in which to deposit their things,
+when the same drunken fellow drew a bow and fired at Muanyaséré. The man
+called out to the others to seize him, which was done in an instant. A
+loud cry now burst forth that the chief's son was in danger, and one of
+the people, hurling a spear, wounded Sabouri slightly in the thigh: this
+was the signal for a general scrimmage.
+
+Chawendé's men fled from the town; the drums beat the assembly in all
+directions, and an immense number flocked to the spot from the two
+neighbouring villages, armed with their bows, arrows, and spears. An
+assault instantly began from the outside. N'chisé was shot with an arrow
+in the shoulder through the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. Things
+were becoming desperate. Putting the body of Dr. Livingstone and all
+their goods and chattels in one hut, they charged out of the town, and
+fired on the assailants, killing two and wounding several others.
+Fearing that they would only gather together in the other remaining
+villages and renew the attack at night, the men carried these quickly
+one by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built on the
+same side of the river, then crossing over, they fired on the canoes
+which were speeding towards the deep water of Bangweolo, through the
+channel of the Lopupussi, with disastrous results to the fugitive
+people.
+
+Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. By the fortunes
+of war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense quantity of food fell into
+their hands; and they remained for a week to recruit. Once or twice they
+found men approaching at night to throw fire on the roofs of the huts
+from outside, but with this exception they were not interfered with. On
+the last day but one a man approached and called to them at the top of
+his voice not to set fire to the chief's town (it was his that they
+occupied); for the bad son had brought all this upon them; he added that
+the old man had been overruled, and they were sorry enough for his bad
+conduct.
+
+Listening to the account given of this occurrence, one cannot but lament
+the loss of life and the whole circumstances of the fight. Whilst on the
+one hand we may imagine that the loss of a cool, conciliatory, brave
+leader was here felt in a grave degree, we must also see that it was
+known far and wide that this very loss was now a great weakness to his
+followers. There is no surer sign of mischief in Africa than these
+trumpery charges of bewitching houses by placing things on them: some
+such over-strained accusation is generally set in the front rank when
+other difficulties are to come: drunkenness is pretty much the same
+thing in all parts of the world, and gathers misery around it as easily
+in an African village as in an English city. Had the cortége submitted
+to extortion and insult, they felt that their night by the river would
+have been a precarious one--even if they had been in a humour to sleep
+in a swamp when a town was at hand. These things gave occasion to them
+to resort to force. The desperate nature of their whole enterprise in
+starting for Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own stock of
+determination, and now it found vent under evil provocation. If there is
+room for any other feeling than regret, it lies in the fact that, on
+mature consideration and in sober moments, the people who suffered, cast
+the real blame on the right shoulders.
+
+For the next three days after leaving Chawendé's they were still in the
+same inundated fringe of Bouga, which surrounds the Lake, and on each
+occasion had to camp at nightfall wherever a resting-place could be
+found in the jungle, reaching Chama's village on the fourth day. A delay
+of forty-eight hours was necessary, as Susi's wife fell ill; and for
+the next few marches she was carried in a kitanda. They met an Unyamwesi
+man here, who had come from Kumbakumba's town in the Wa Ussi district.
+He related to them how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried to
+carry Chawendé's town by assault, but had been repulsed both times. It
+would seem that, with the strong footing these invaders have in the
+country, armed as they are besides with the much-dreaded guns, it can
+only be a matter of time before the whole rule, such as it is, passes
+into the hands of the new-comers.
+
+The next night was spent in the open, before coming to the scattered
+huts of Ngumbu's, where a motley group of stragglers, for the most part
+Wabisa, were busy felling the trees and clearing the land for
+cultivation. However, the little community gave them a welcome, in spite
+of the widespread report of the fighting at Chawendé's, and dancing and
+drumming were kept up till morning.
+
+One more night was passed in the plain, and they reached a tributary of
+the Lopupussi River, called the M'Pamba; it is a considerable stream,
+and takes one up to the chest in crossing. They now drew near to
+Chiwaie's town, which they describe as a very strong place, fortified
+with a stockade and ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagers
+tried to pick a quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was their
+invariable custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, march at their head,
+whilst the Union Jack and the red colours of Zanzibar were carried in a
+foremost place in the line. Fortunately a chief of some importance came
+up and stopped the discussion, or there might have been more mischief,
+for the men were in no temper to lower their flag, knowing their own
+strength pretty well by this time. Making their settlement close to
+Chiwaie's, they met with much kindness, and were visited by crowds of
+the inhabitants.
+
+Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's village; sleeping
+two nights in the jungle they made Chungu's, and in another day's march
+found themselves, to their great delight, at Kapesha's. They knew their
+road from this point, for on the southern route with Dr. Livingstone
+they had stopped here, and could therefore take up the path that leads
+to Tanganyika. Hitherto their course had been easterly, with a little
+northing, but now they turned their backs to the Lake, which they had
+held on the right-hand since crossing the Luapula, and struck almost
+north.
+
+From Kapesha's to Lake Bangweolo is a three days' march as the crow
+flies, for a man carrying a burden. They saw a large quantity of iron
+and copper wire being made here by a party of Wanyamwesi. The process is
+as follows:--A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped hole in it, is
+firmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is then thrust into it,
+and a line attached to the first few inches which can be coaxed through.
+A number of men haul on this line, singing and dancing in tune, and thus
+it is drawn through the first drill; it is subsequently passed through
+others to render it still finer, and excellent wire is the result.
+Leaving Kapesha they went through many of the villages already
+enumerated in Dr. Livingstone's Diary. Chama's people came to see them
+as they passed by him, and after some mutterings and growlings Casongo
+gave them leave to buy food at his town. Reaching Chama's head-quarters
+they camped outside, and received a civil message, telling them to
+convey his orders to the people on the banks of the Kalongwesi that the
+travellers must be ferried safely across. They found great fear and
+misery prevailing in the neighbourhood from the constant raids made by
+Kumbakumba's men.
+
+Leaving the Kalangwésé behind them they made for M'sama's son's town,
+meeting four men on the way who were going from Kumbakumba to Chama to
+beat up recruits for an attack on the Katanga people. The request was
+sure to be met with alarm and refusal, but it served very well to act
+the part taken by the wolf in the fable. A grievance would immediately
+be made of it, and Chama "eaten up" in due course for daring to gainsay
+the stronger man. Such is too frequently the course of native
+oppression. At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight. Already the large
+district of Itawa has tacitly allowed itself to be put under the harrow
+by this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab. Black-mail is levied in all directions,
+and the petty chiefs, although really under tribute to Nsama, are
+sagacious enough to keep in with the powers that be. Kumbakumba showed
+the men a storehouse full of elephants' tusks. A small detachment was
+sent off to try and gain tidings of one of the Nassick boys, John, who
+had mysteriously disappeared a day or two previously on the march. At
+the time no great apprehensions were felt, but as he did not turn up the
+grass was set on fire in order that he might see the smoke if he had
+wandered, and guns were fired. Some think he purposely went off rather
+than carry a load any further; whilst others fear he may have been
+killed. Certain it is that after a five days' search in all directions
+no tidings could be gained either here or at Chama's, and nothing more
+was heard of the poor fellow.
+
+Numbers of slaves were collected here. On one occasion they saw five
+gangs bound neck to neck by chains, and working in the gardens outside
+the towns.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The talk was still about the break up of Casembe's power, for it will be
+recollected that Kumbakumba and Pemba Motu had killed him a short time
+before; but by far the most interesting news that reached them was that
+a party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on their way to
+relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio some months previously.
+
+The chief showed them every kindness during their five days' rest, and
+was most anxious that no mishap should by any chance occur to their
+principal charge. He warned them to beware of hyænas, at night more
+especially, as the quarter in which they had camped had no stockade
+round it as yet.
+
+Marching was now much easier, and the men quickly found they had crossed
+the watershed. The Lovu ran in front of them on its way to Tanganyika.
+The Kalongwesé, we have seen, flows to Lake Moero in the opposite
+direction. More to their purpose it was perhaps to find the terror of
+Kumbakumba dying away as they travelled in a north-easterly direction,
+and came amongst the Mwambi. As yet no invasion had taken place. A young
+chief, Chungu, did all he could for them, for when the Doctor explored
+these regions before, Chungu had been much impressed with him: and now,
+throwing off all the native superstition, he looked on the arrival of
+the dead body as a cause of real sorrow.
+
+Asoumani had some luck in hunting, and a fine buffalo was killed near
+the town. According to native game laws (which in some respects are
+exceedingly strict in Africa), Chungu had a right to a fore leg--had it
+been an elephant the tusk next the ground would have been his, past all
+doubt--in this instance, however, the men sent in a plea that theirs was
+no ordinary case, and that hunger had laws of its own; they begged to be
+allowed to keep the whole carcase, and Chungu not only listened to their
+story, but willingly waived his claim to the chief's share.
+
+It is to be hoped that these sons of Tafuna, the head and father of the
+Amambwi a lungu, may hold their own. They seem a superior race, and this
+man is described as a worthy leader. His brothers Kasonso, Chitimbwa,
+Sombé, and their sister Mombo, are all notorious for their reverence for
+Tafuna. In their villages an abundance of coloured homespun cloth speaks
+for their industry; whilst from the numbers of dogs and elephant-spears
+no further testimony is needed to show that the character they bear as
+great hunters is well deserved.
+
+The steep descent to the Lake now lay before them, and they came to
+Kasakalawé's. Here it was that the Doctor had passed weary months of
+illness on his first approach to Tanganyika in previous years. The
+village contained but few of its old inhabitants, but those few received
+them hospitably enough and mourned the loss of him who had been so well
+appreciated when alive. So they journeyed on day by day till the
+southern end of the Lake was rounded.
+
+The previous experience of the difficult route along the heights
+bordering on Tanganyika made them determine to give the Lake a wide
+berth this time, and for this purpose they held well to the eastward,
+passing a number of small deserted villages, in one of which they camped
+nearly every night. It was necessary to go through the Fipa country, but
+they learnt from one man and another that the chief, Kafoofi, was very
+anxious that the body should not be brought near to his town--indeed, a
+guide was purposely thrown in their way who led them past it by a
+considerable détour. Kafoofi stands well with the coast Arabs. One,
+Ngombesassi by name, was at the time living with him, accompanied by his
+retinue of slaves. He had collected a very large quantity of ivory
+further in the interior, but dared not approach nearer at present to
+Unyanyembé with it to risk the chance of meeting one of Mirambo's
+hordes.
+
+This road across the plain seems incomparably the best, No difficulty
+whatever was experienced, and one cannot but lament the toil and
+weariness which Dr. Livingstone endured whilst holding a course close to
+Tanganyika, although one must bear in mind that by no other means at the
+time could he complete his survey of this great inland sea, or acquaint
+us with its harbours, its bays, and the rivers which find their way
+into it on the east; these are details which will prove of value when
+small vessels come to navigate it in the future.
+
+The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days' march over
+Lambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which crosses the country east
+and west, and attains, it would seem, an altitude of some 4000 feet.
+Looking down on the plain from its highest passes a vast lake appears to
+stretch away in front towards the north, but on descending this resolves
+itself into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with saline
+incrustations. The path lay directly across this. The difficulties they
+anticipated had no real existence, for small villages were found, and
+water was not scarce, although brackish. The first demand for toll was
+made near here, but the headman allowed them to pass for fourteen
+strings of beads. Susi says that this plain literally swarms with herds
+of game of all kinds: giraffe and zebra were particularly abundant, and
+lions revelled in such good quarters. The settlements they came to
+belonged chiefly to elephant hunters. Farijala and Muanyaséré did well
+with the buffalo, and plenty of beef came into camp.
+
+They gained some particulars concerning a salt-water lake on their
+right, at no very considerable distance. It was reported to them to be
+smaller than Tanganyika, and goes by the name Bahari ya Muarooli--the
+sea of Muarooli--for such is the name of the paramount chief who lives
+on its shore, and if we mistake not the very Meréré, or his successor,
+about whom Dr. Livingstone from time to time showed such interest. They
+now approached the Likwa River, which flows to this inland sea: they
+describe it as a stream running breast high, with brackish water; little
+satisfaction was got by drinking from it.
+
+Just as they came to the Likwa, a long string of men was seen on the
+opposite side filing down to the water, and being uncertain of their
+intentions, precautions were quickly taken to ensure the safety of the
+baggage. Dividing themselves into three parties, the first detachment
+went across to meet the strangers, carrying the Arab flag in front.
+Chuma headed another band at a little distance in the rear of these,
+whilst Susi and a few more crouched in the jungle, with the body
+concealed in a roughly-made hut. Their fears, however, were needless: it
+turned out to be a caravan bound for Fipa to hunt elephants and buy
+ivory and slaves. The new arrivals told them that they had come straight
+through Unyanyembé from Bagamoio, on the coast, and that the Doctor's
+death had already been reported there by natives of Fipa.
+
+As we notice with what rapidity the evil tidings spread (for the men
+found that it had preceded them in all directions), one of the great
+anxieties connected with African travel and exploration seems to be
+rather increased than diminished. It shows us that it is never wise to
+turn an entirely deaf ear when the report of a disaster comes to hand,
+because in this instance the main facts were conveyed across country,
+striking the great arterial caravan route at Unyanyembé, and getting at
+once into a channel that would ensure the intelligence reaching
+Zanzibar. On the other hand, false reports never lag on their
+journey:--how often has Livingstone been killed in former years! Nor is
+one's perplexity lessened by past experience, for we find the oldest and
+most sagacious travellers when consulted are, as a rule, no more to be
+depended on than the merest tyro in guessing.
+
+With no small satisfaction, the men learnt from the outward-bound
+caravan that the previous story was a true one, and they were assured
+that Dr. Livingstone's son with two Englishmen and a quantity of goods
+had already reached Unyanyembé.
+
+The country here showed all the appearance of a salt-pan: indeed a
+quantity of very good salt was collected by one of the men, who thought
+he could turn an honest bunch of beads with it at Unyanyembé.
+
+Petty tolls were levied on them. Kampama's deputy required four dotis,
+and an additional tax of six was paid to the chief of the Kanongo when
+his town was reached.
+
+The Lungwa River bowls away here towards Tanganyika. It is a quick
+tumbling stream, leaping amongst the rocks and boulders, and in its
+deeper pools it affords cool delight to schools of hippopotami. The men,
+who had hardly tasted good water since crossing Lambalamfipa, are loud
+in its praise. Muanyasere improved relations with the people at the next
+town by opportunely killing another buffalo, and all took a three days'
+rest. Yet another caravan met them, bound likewise for the interior, and
+adding further particulars about the Englishmen at Unyanyembé. This
+quickened the pace till they found at one stage they were melting two
+days of the previous outward journey into one.
+
+Arriving at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of the party, was
+commissioned to write an account of the distressing circumstances of the
+Doctor's death, and Chuma, taking three men with him, pressed on to
+deliver it to the English party in person. The rest of the cortége
+followed them through the jungle to Chilunda's village. On the outskirts
+they came across a number of Wagogo hunting elephants with dogs and
+spears, but although they were well treated by them, and received
+presents of honey and food, they thought it better to keep these men in
+ignorance of the fact that they were in charge of the dead body of their
+master.
+
+The Manyara River was crossed on its way to Tanganyika before they got
+to Chikooloo, Leaving this village behind them, they advanced to the
+Ugunda district, now ruled by Kalimangombi, the son of Mbéréké, the
+former chief, and so on to Kasekéra, which, it will be remembered, is
+not far from Unyanyembé.
+
+_20th October, 1873._--We will here run on ahead with Chuma on his way
+to communicate with the new arrivals. He reached the Arab settlement
+without let or hindrance. Lieut. Cameron was quickly put in possession
+of the main facts of Dr. Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter,
+and Chuma was questioned concerning it in the presence of Dr. Dillon and
+Lieut. Murphy. It was a disappointment to find that the reported arrival
+of Mr. Oswell Livingstone was entirely erroneous; but Lieut. Cameron
+showed the wayworn men every kindness. Chuma rested one day before
+setting out to relieve his comrades to whom he had arranged to make his
+way as soon as possible. Lieut. Cameron expressed a fear that it would
+not be safe for him to carry the cloth he was willing to furnish them
+with if he had not a stronger convoy, as he himself had suffered too
+sorely from terrified bearers on his way thither; but the young fellows
+were pretty well acquainted with native marauders by this time, and set
+off without apprehension.
+
+And now the greater part of their task is over. The weather-beaten
+company wind their way into the old well-known settlement of Kwihara. A
+host of Arabs and their attendant slaves meet them as they sorrowfully
+take their charge to the same Tembé in which the "weary waiting" was
+endured before, and then they submit to the systematic questioning which
+the native traveller is so well able to sustain.
+
+News in abundance was offered in return. The porters of the Livingstone
+East-Coast Aid Expedition had plenty to relate to the porters sent by
+Mr. Stanley. Mirambo's war dragged on its length, and matters had
+changed very little since they were there before, either for better or
+for worse. They found the English officers extremely short of goods; but
+Lieut. Cameron, no doubt with the object of his Expedition full in view,
+very properly felt it a first duty to relieve the wants of the party
+that had performed this Herculean feat of bringing the body of the
+traveller he had been sent to relieve, together with every article
+belonging to him at the time of his death, as far as this main road to
+the coast.
+
+In talking to the men about their intentions, Lieut. Cameron had serious
+doubts whether the risk of taking the body of Dr. Livingstone through
+the Ugogo country ought to be run. It very naturally occurred to him
+that Dr. Livingstone might have felt a wish during life to be buried in
+the same land in which the remains of his wife lay, for it will be
+remembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shupanga, on the
+Zambesi. All this was put before the men, but they steadily adhered to
+their first conviction--that it was right at all risks to attempt to
+bear their master home, and therefore they were no longer urged to bury
+him at Kwihara.
+
+To the new comers it was of great interest to examine the boxes which
+the men had conveyed from Bangweolo. As we have seen, they had carefully
+packed up everything at Chitambo's--books, instruments, clothes, and all
+which would bear special interest in time to come from having been
+associated with Livingstone in his last hours.
+
+It cannot be conceded for a moment that these poor fellows would have
+been right in forbidding this examination, when we consider the relative
+position in which natives and English officers must always stand to each
+other; but it is a source of regret to relate that the chief part of
+Livingstone's instruments were taken out of the packages and
+appropriated for future purposes. The instruments with which all his
+observations had been made throughout a series of discoveries extending
+over seven years--aneroid barometers, compasses, thermometers, the
+sextant and other things, have gone on a new series of travels, to incur
+innumerable risks of loss, whilst one only of his thermometers comes to
+hand.
+
+We could well have wished these instruments safe in England with the
+small remnant of Livingstone's personal property, which was allowed to
+be shipped from Zanzibar.
+
+The Doctor had deposited four bales of cloth as a reserve stock with the
+Arabs, and these were immediately forthcoming for the march down.
+
+The termination here of the ill-fated Expedition need not be commented
+upon. One can only trust that Lieut. Cameron may be at liberty to pursue
+his separate investigations in the interior under more favourable
+auspices. The men seemed to anticipate his success, for he is generous
+and brave in the presence of the natives, and likely to win his way
+where others undoubtedly would have failed.
+
+Ill-health had stuck persistently to the party, and all the officers
+were suffering from the various forms of fever. Lieut. Cameron gave the
+men to understand that it was agreed Lieut. Murphy should return to
+Zanzibar, and asked if they could attach his party to their march; if
+so, the men who acted as carriers should receive 6 dollars a man for
+their services. This was agreed to. Susi had arranged that they should
+avoid the main path of the Wagogo; inasmuch, as if difficulty was to be
+encountered anywhere, it would arise amongst these lawless pugnacious
+people.
+
+By making a ten days' détour at "Jua Singa," and travelling by a path
+well known to one of their party through the jungle of Poli ya vengi,
+they hoped to keep out of harm's way, and to be able to make the cloth
+hold out with which they were supplied. At length the start was
+effected, and Dr. Dillon likewise quitted the Expedition to return to
+the coast. It was necessary to stop after the first day's march, for a
+long halt; for one of the women was unable to travel, they found, and
+progress was delayed till she, the wife of Chowpéréh, could resume the
+journey. There seem to have been some serious misunderstandings between
+the leaders of Dr. Livingstone's party and Lieut. Murphy soon after
+setting out, which turned mainly on the subject of beginning the day's
+march. The former, trained in the old discipline of their master, laid
+stress on the necessity of very early rising to avoid the heat of the
+day, and perhaps pointed out more bluntly than pleasantly that if the
+Englishmen wanted to improve their health, they had better do so too.
+However, to a certain extent, this was avoided by the two companies
+pleasing themselves.
+
+Making an early start, the body was carried to Kasekéra, by Susi's party
+where, from an evident disinclination to receive it into the village, an
+encampment was made outside. A consultation now became necessary. There
+was no disguising the fact that, if they kept along the main road,
+intelligence would precede them concerning that in which they were
+engaged, stirring up certain hostility and jeopardising the most
+precious charge they had. A plan was quickly hit upon. Unobserved, the
+men removed the corpse of the deceased explorer from the package in
+which it had hitherto been conveyed, and buried the bark case in the hut
+in the thicket around the village in which they had placed it. The
+object now was to throw the villagers off their guard, by making believe
+that they had relinquished the attempt to carry the body to Zanzibar.
+They feigned that they had abandoned their task, having changed their
+minds, and that it must be sent back to Unyanyembé to be buried there.
+In the mean time the corpse of necessity had to be concealed in the
+smallest space possible, if they were actually to convey it secretly for
+the future; this was quickly managed.
+
+Susi and Chuma went into the wood and stripped off a fresh length of
+bark from an N'gombe tree; in this the remains, conveniently prepared as
+to length, were placed, the whole being surrounded with calico in such
+a manner as to appear like an ordinary travelling bale, which was then
+deposited with the rest of the goods. They next proceeded to gather a
+faggot of mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of six feet or so, and
+swathing them round with cloth to imitate a dead body about to be
+buried. This done, a paper, folded so as to represent a letter, was duly
+placed in a cleft stick, according to the native letter-carrier's
+custom, and six trustworthy men were told off ostensibly to go with the
+corpse to Unyanyembé. With due solemnity the men set out; the villagers
+were only too thankful to see it, and no one suspected the ruse. It was
+near sundown. The bearers of the package held on their way, till fairly
+beyond all chance of detection, and then began to dispose of their load.
+The mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the jungle, and
+when all were disposed of, the wrappings were cunningly got rid of in
+the same way. Going further on, first one man, and then another, sprung
+clear from the path into the long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps,
+and the whole party returned by different ways to their companions, who
+had been anxiously awaiting them during the night. No one could detect
+the real nature of the ordinary-looking bale which, henceforth, was
+guarded with no relaxed vigilance, and eventually disclosed the bark
+coffin and wrappings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrival
+at Bagamoio. And now, devoid of fear, the people of Kasekéra asked them
+all to come and take up their quarters in the town; a privilege which
+was denied them so long as it was known that they had the remains of the
+dead with them.
+
+But a dreadful event was about to recall to their minds how many fall
+victims to African disease!
+
+Dr. Dillon now came on to Kasekéra suffering much from dysentery--a few
+hours more, and he shot himself in his tent by means of a loaded rifle.
+
+Those who knew the brave and generous spirit in which this hard-working
+volunteer set out with Lieut. Cameron, fully hoping to relieve Dr.
+Livingstone, will feel that he ended his life by an act alien indeed to
+his whole nature. The malaria imbibed during their stay at Unyanyembé
+laid upon him the severest form of fever, accompanied by delirium, under
+which he at length succumbed in one of its violent paroxysms. His
+remains are interred at Kasekéra.
+
+We must follow Susi's troop through a not altogether eventless journey
+to the sea. Some days afterwards, as they wended their way through a
+rocky place, a little girl in their train, named Losi, met her death in
+a shocking way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a water-jar
+on her head in the file of people, when an enormous snake dashed across
+the path, deliberately struck her in the thigh, and made for a hole in
+the jungle close at hand. This work of a moment was sufficient, for the
+poor girl fell mortally wounded. She was carried forward, and all means
+at hand were applied, but in less than ten minutes the last symptom
+(foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe.
+
+Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to prove the truth
+of an assertion made to travellers in many parts of Africa. The natives
+protest that one species of snake will deliberately chase and overtake
+his victim with lightning speed, and so dreadfully dangerous is it, both
+from the activity of its poison and its vicious propensities, that it is
+perilous to approach its quarters. Most singular to relate, an Arab came
+to some of the men after their arrival at Zanzibar and told them that he
+had just come by the Unyanyembé road, and that, whilst passing the
+identical spot where this disaster occurred, one of the men was attacked
+by the same snake, with precisely the same results; in fact, when
+looking for a place in which to bury him they saw the grave of Losi, and
+the two lie side by side.
+
+Natal colonists will probably recognise the Mamba in this snake; it is
+much to be desired that specimens should be procured for purposes of
+comparison. In Southern Africa so great is the dread it inspires that
+the Kaffirs will break up a Kraal and forsake the place if a Mamba takes
+up his quarters in the vicinity, and, from what we have seen above, with
+no undue caution.
+
+Susi, to whom this snake is known in the Shupanga tongue as "Bubu,"
+describes it as about twelve feet long, dark in colour, of a dirty blue
+under the belly, with red markings like the wattles of a cock on the
+head. The Arabs go so far as to say that it is known to oppose the
+passage of a caravan at times. Twisting its tail round a branch, it will
+strike one man after another in the head with fatal certainty. Their
+remedy is to fill a pot with boiling water, which is put on the head and
+carried under the tree! The snake dashes his head into this and is
+killed--the story is given for what it is worth.
+
+It would seem that at Ujiji the natives, as in other places, cannot bear
+to have snakes killed. The "Chatu," a species of python, is common, and,
+from being highly favoured, becomes so tame as to enter houses at night.
+A little meal is placed on the stool, which the uncanny visitor laps up,
+and then takes its departure--the men significantly say they never saw
+it with their own eyes. Another species utters a cry, much like the
+crowing of a young cock; this is well authenticated. Yet another black
+variety has a spine like a blackthorn at the end of the tail, and its
+bite is extremely deadly.
+
+At the same time it must be added that, considering the enormous number
+of reptiles in Africa, it rarely occurs that anyone is bitten, and a few
+months' residence suffices to dispel the dread which most travellers
+feel at the outset.
+
+_February, 1874._--No further incident occurred worthy of special
+notice. At last the coast town of Bagamoio came in sight, and before
+many hours were over, one of Her Majesty's cruisers conveyed the Acting
+Consul, Captain Prideaux, from Zanzibar to the spot which the cortége
+had reached. Arrangements were quickly made for transporting the remains
+of Dr. Livingstone to the Island some thirty miles distant, and then it
+became perhaps rather too painfully plain to the men that their task was
+finished.
+
+One word on a subject which will commend itself to most before we close
+this long eventful history.
+
+We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, Nassick boys, and
+Shupanga canoemen, accompanied Dr. Livingstone when he started from
+Zanzibar in 1866 to enter upon his last discoveries: of all these, five
+only could answer to the roll-call as they handed over the dead body of
+their leader to his countrymen on the shore whither they had returned,
+and this after eight years' desperate service.
+
+Once more we repeat the names of these men. Susi and James Chuma have
+been sufficiently prominent throughout--hardly so perhaps has Amoda,
+their comrade ever since the Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abram
+and Mabruki, each with service to show from the time he left the Nassiok
+College with the Doctor in 1865. Nor must we forget Ntoaéka and Halima,
+the two native girls of whom we have heard such a good character: they
+cast in their lot with the wanderers in Manyuema. It does seem strange
+to hear the men say that no sooner did they arrive at their journey's
+end than they were so far frowned out of notice, that not so much as a
+passage to the Island was offered them when their burden was borne away.
+We must hope that it is not too late--even for the sake of
+consistency--to put it on record that _whoever_ assisted Livingstone,
+whether white or black, has not been overlooked in England. Surely those
+with whom he spent his last years must not pass away into Africa again
+unrewarded, and lost to sight.
+
+Yes, a very great deal is owing to these five men, and we say it
+emphatically. If the nation has gratified a reasonable wish in learning
+all that concerns the last days on earth of a truly noble countryman and
+his wonderful enterprise, the means of doing so could never have been
+placed at our disposal but for the ready willingness which made Susi and
+Chuma determine, if possible, to render an account to some of those whom
+they had known as their master's old companions. If the Geographer finds
+before him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as Livingstone
+alone could record them, it is right and proper that he should feel the
+part these men have played in furnishing him with such valuable matter.
+For we repeat that nothing but such leadership and staunchness as that
+which organized the march home from Ilala, and distinguished it
+throughout, could have brought Livingstone's bones to our land or his
+last notes and maps to the outer world. To none does the feat seem so
+marvellous as to those who know Africa and the difficulties which must
+have beset both the first and the last in the enterprise. Thus in his
+death, not less than in his life, David Livingstone bore testimony to
+that goodwill and kindliness which exists in the heart of the African.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[37] The men consider it five days' march "only carrying a gun" from
+the Molilamo to the bank of the Luapula--this in rough reckoning, at
+the rate of native travelling, would give a distance of say 120 to 150
+miles.--ED.
+
+[38] This comparison was got at from the remarks made by Susi and
+Chuma at an agricultural show; they pointed out the resemblance borne
+by the shorthorns and by the Alderney bulls to several breeds near
+Lake Bemba.--ED.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David
+Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
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diff --git a/17024-0.zip b/17024-0.zip
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+++ b/17024-8.txt
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873
+       Continued By A Narrative Of His Last Moments And Sufferings,
+       Obtained From His Faithful Servants Chuma And Susi
+
+Author: David Livingstone
+
+Editor: Horace Waller
+
+Release Date: November 8, 2005 [EBook #17024]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DAVID LIVINGSTON, II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST JOURNALS
+
+OF
+
+DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
+
+IN CENTRAL AFRICA,
+FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.
+
+CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OF
+HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS,
+OBTAINED FROM
+HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI
+
+BY HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,
+RECTOR OF TWYWELL, NORTHAMPTON.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. II.
+[1869-1873]
+
+WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+LONDON:
+JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
+1874.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Reaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumb�. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moen�kuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumb�'s ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resum� of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of
+    comfort." Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird." The disease
+    "Safura."
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Mer�r�. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarr�. Go�tre.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Part at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to
+    eat a white one." Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nya�gw�. Reaches the Lualaba
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nya�gw� on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomam�.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm, of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusiz�. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyemb� with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game.
+    Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness
+    at reaching Unyanyemb�
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient Geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyamyembe. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir Samuel Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    Missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Short years in Buganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and Vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. High
+    mountains. Large Bay
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chitu�ku�'s. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chitu�ku�'s. At the chiefs mercy. Agreeably
+    surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march.
+    Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out to
+    find villages. Message to Chirubw�. An ant raid. Awaits news
+    from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of Bangweolo.
+    Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and Chuma sent as
+    envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at Matipa's islet.
+    Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit. Tries to go on to
+    Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a demonstration. Solution of
+    the transport difficulty. Susi and detachment sent to Kabinga's.
+    Extraordinary extent of flood. Reaches Kabinga's. An upset.
+    Crosses the Chambez�. The River Muanakazi. They separate into
+    companies by land and water. A disconsolate lion. Singular
+    caterpillars. Observations on fish. Coasting along the southern
+    flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chuma's additional details. Great agony in his last illness.
+    Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill
+    of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses the Mohlamo
+    into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo's
+    village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last
+    night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account
+    of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the men.
+    Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is dead.
+    Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the men
+    wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation of
+    the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyemb�. Chuma
+    meets Lieut. Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks
+
+
+
+
+    ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+    Full-page Illustrations.
+
+     1. EVENING. ILALA. 29TH APRIL, 1873
+     2. UGUHA HEAD-DRESSES
+     3. CHUMA AND SUSI. (From a Photograph by MAULL & Co.)
+     4. MANYUEMA HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS
+     5. PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG SOKO
+     6. A DANGEROUS PRIZE
+     7. FACSIMILE OF A PORTION OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNAL
+     8. THE MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEMA WOMEN AT NYANGWE
+     9. THE MANYUEMA AMBUSH
+    10. "THE MAIN STREAM CAME UP TO SUSI'S MOUTH"
+    11. THE LAST MILES OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S TRAVELS
+    12. FISH EAGLE ON HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP
+    13. THE LAST ENTRY IN DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNALS
+    14. TEMPORARY VILLAGE IN WHICH DR. LIVINGSTONE'S BODY
+        WAS PREPARED
+
+
+    Smaller Illustrations.
+
+     1. LINES OF GREEN SCUM ON LAKE TANGANYIKA
+     2. MODE OF CATCHING ANTS
+     3. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S MOSQUITO CURTAIN
+     4. MATIPA AND HIS WIFE
+     5. AN OLD SERVANT DESTROYED
+     6. KAWEND� SURGERY
+
+
+    MAP OF CONJECTURAL GEOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL AFRICA,
+    FROM DR. LIVINGSTONE'S NOTES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Beaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumb�. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moen�kuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.
+
+
+[The new year opened badly enough, and from letters he wrote
+subsequently concerning the illness which now attacked him, we gather
+that it left evils behind, from which he never quite recovered. The
+following entries were made after he regained sufficient strength, but
+we see how short they necessarily were, and what labour it was to make
+the jottings which relate to his progress towards the western shore of
+Lake Tanganyika. He was not able at any time during this seizure to
+continue the minute maps of the country in his pocket-books, which for
+the first time fail here.]
+
+_1st January, 1869._--I have been wet times without number, but the
+wetting of yesterday was once too often: I felt very ill, but fearing
+that the Lofuko might flood, I resolved to cross it. Cold up to the
+waist, which made me worse, but I went on for 2-1/2 hours E.
+
+_3rd January, 1869._--I marched one hour, but found I was too ill to go
+further. Moving is always good in fever; now I had a pain in the chest,
+and rust of iron sputa: my lungs, my strongest part, were thus affected.
+We crossed a rill and built sheds, but I lost count of the days of the
+week and month after this. Very ill all over.
+
+_About 7th January, 1869._--Cannot walk: Pneumonia of right lung, and I
+cough all day and all night: sputa rust of iron and bloody: distressing
+weakness. Ideas flow through the mind with great rapidity and vividness,
+in groups of twos and threes: if I look at any piece of wood, the bark
+seems covered over with figures and faces of men, and they remain,
+though I look away and turn to the same spot again. I saw myself lying
+dead in the way to Ujiji, and all the letters I expected there useless.
+When I think of my children and friends, the lines ring through my head
+perpetually:
+
+    "I shall look into your faces,
+      And listen to what you say,
+    And be often very near you
+      When you think I'm far away."
+
+Mohamad Bogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who cupped my chest.
+
+_8th and 9th January, 1869._--Mohamad Bogharib offered to carry me. I am
+so weak I can scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper now--a pretty but
+steeply-undulating country. This is the first time in my life I have
+been carried in illness, but I cannot raise myself to the sitting
+posture. No food except a little gruel. Great distress in coughing all
+night long; feet swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on a
+kitanda or frame, like a cot; carried eight hours one day. Then sleep in
+a deep ravine. Next day six hours, over volcanic tufa; very rough. We
+seem near the brim of Tanganyika. Sixteen days of illness. May be 23rd
+of January; it is 5th of lunar month. Country very undulating; it is
+perpetually up and down. Soil red, and rich knolls of every size and
+form. Trees few. Erythrinas abound; so do elephants. Carried eight hours
+yesterday to a chief's village. Small sharp thorns hurt the men's feet,
+and so does the roughness of the ground. Though there is so much slope,
+water does not run quickly off Marungu. A compact mountain-range flanks
+the undulating country through which we passed, and may stop the water
+flowing. Mohamad Bogharib is very kind to me in my extreme weakness; but
+carriage is painful; head down and feet up alternates with feet down and
+head up; jolted up and down and sideways--changing shoulders involves a
+toss from one side to the other of the kitanda. The sun is vertical,
+blistering any part of the skin exposed, and I try to shelter my face
+and head as well as I can with a bunch of leaves, but it is dreadfully
+fatiguing in my weakness.
+
+I had a severe relapse after a very hot day. Mohamad gave me medicines;
+one was a sharp purgative, the others intended for the cure of the
+cough.
+
+_14th February, 1869._--Arrived at Tanganyika. Parra is the name of the
+land at the confluence of the River Lofuko: Syde bin Habib had two or
+three large canoes at this place, our beads were nearly done, so I sent
+to Syde to say that all the Arabs had served me except himself. Thani
+bin Suellim by his letter was anxious to send a canoe as soon as I
+reached the Lake, and the only service I wanted of Syde was to inform
+Thani, by one of his canoes, that I was here very ill, and if I did not
+get to Ujiji to get proper food and medicine I should die. Thani would
+send a canoe as soon as he knew of my arrival I was sure: he replied
+that he too would serve me: and sent some flour and two fowls: he would
+come in two days and see what he could do as to canoes.
+
+_15th February, 1869._--The cough and chest pain diminished, and I feel
+thankful; my body is greatly emaciated. Syde came to-day, and is
+favourable to sending me up to Ujiji. Thanks to the Great Father in
+Heaven.
+
+_24th February, 1869._--We had remarkably little rain these two months.
+
+_25th February, 1869._--I extracted twenty _Funy�s_, an insect like a
+maggot, whose eggs had been inserted on my having been put into an old
+house infested by them; as they enlarge they stir about and impart a
+stinging sensation; if disturbed, the head is drawn in a little. When a
+poultice is put on they seem obliged to come out possibly from want of
+air: they can be pressed out, but the large pimple in which they live is
+painful; they were chiefly in my limbs.
+
+_26th February, 1869._--Embark, and sleep at Katonga after seven hours'
+paddling.
+
+_27th February, 1869._--Went 1-3/4 hour to Bondo or Thembw� to buy food.
+Shore very rough, like shores near Capr�ra, but here all is covered with
+vegetation. We were to cross to Kabogo, a large mass of mountains on the
+eastern side, but the wind was too high.
+
+_28th February, 1869._--Syde sent food back to his slaves.
+
+_2nd March, 1869._--Waves still high, so we got off only on _3rd_ at 1h.
+30m. A.M. 6-1/2 hours, and came to M. Bogharib, who cooked bountifully.
+
+_6th March, 1869._--5 P.M. Off to Toloka Bay--three hours; left at 6
+A.M., and came, in four hours, to Uguha, which is on the west side of
+Tanganyika.
+
+_7th March, 1869._--Left at 6 P.M., and went on till two canoes ran on
+rocks in the way to Kasanga islet. Rounded a point of land, and made for
+Kasanga with a storm in our teeth; fourteen hours in all. We were
+received by a young Arab Muscat, who dined us sumptuously at noon: there
+are seventeen islets in the Kasanga group.
+
+_8th March, 1869._--On Kasanga islet. Cochin-China fowls[1] and Muscovy
+ducks appear, and plenty of a small milkless breed of goats. Tanganyika
+has many deep bays running in four or five miles; they are choked up
+with aquatic vegetation, through which canoes can scarcely be propelled.
+When the bay has a small rivulet at its head, the water in the bay is
+decidedly brackish, though the rivulet be fresh, it made the Zanzibar
+people remark on the Lake water, "It is like that we get near the
+sea-shore--a little salt;" but as soon as we get out of the shut-in bay
+or lagoon into the Lake proper the water is quite sweet, and shows that
+a current flows through the middle of the Lake lengthways.
+
+Patience was never more needed than now: I am near Ujiji, but the slaves
+who paddle are tired, and no wonder; they keep up a roaring song all
+through their work, night and day. I expect to get medicine, food, and
+milk at Ujiji, but dawdle and do nothing. I have a good appetite, and
+sleep well; these are the favourable symptoms; but am dreadfully thin,
+bowels irregular, and I have no medicine. Sputa increases; hope to hold
+out to Ujiji. Cough worse. Hope to go to-morrow.
+
+_9th March, 1869._--The Whydah birds have at present light breasts and
+dark necks. Zahor is the name of our young Arab host.
+
+_11th March, 1869._--Go over to Kibiz� islet, 1-1/2 hour from Kasanga.
+Great care is taken not to encounter foul weather; we go a little way,
+then wait for fair wind in crossing to east side of Lake.
+
+_12th March, 1869._--People of Kibiz� dress like those in Rua, with
+cloth made of the Muab� or wild-date leaves; the same is used in
+Madagascar for the "lamba."[2] Their hair is collected up to the top of
+the head.
+
+From Kibiz� islet to Kabogo River on east side of Lake ten hours; sleep
+there. Syde slipped past us at night, but we made up to him in four
+hours next morning.
+
+_13th March, 1869._--At Rombol�; we sleep, then on.
+
+[At last he reached the great Arab settlement at Ujiji, on the eastern
+shore of Tanganyika. It was his first visit, but he had arranged that
+supplies should be forwarded thither by caravans bound inland from
+Zanzibar. Most unfortunately his goods were made away with in all
+directions--not only on this, but on several other occasions. The
+disappointment to a man shattered in health, and craving for letters and
+stores, must have been severe indeed.]
+
+_14th March, 1869._--Go past Malagarasi River, and reach Ujiji in 3-1/2
+hours. Found Haji Thani's agent in charge of my remaining goods.
+Medicines, wine, and cheese had been left at Unyanyemb�, thirteen days
+east of this. Milk not to be had, as the cows had not calved, but a
+present of Assam tea from Mr. Black, the Inspector of the Peninsular and
+Oriental Company's affairs, had come from Calcutta, besides my own
+coffee and a little sugar. I bought butter; two large pots are sold for
+two fathoms of blue calico, and four-year-old flour, with which we made
+bread. I found great benefit from the tea and coffee, and still more
+from flannel to the skin.
+
+_15th March, 1869._--Took account of all the goods left by the
+plunderer; sixty-two out of eighty pieces of cloth (each of twenty-four
+yards) were stolen, and most of my best beads. The road to Unyemb�[3] is
+blocked up by a Mazitu or Watuta war, so I must wait till the Governor
+there gets an opportunity to send them. The Musa sent with the buffaloes
+is a genuine specimen of the ill-conditioned, English-hating Arab. I was
+accosted on arriving by, "You must give me five dollars a month for all
+my time;" this though he had brought nothing--the buffaloes all
+died--and did nothing but receive stolen goods. I tried to make use of
+him to go a mile every second day for milk, but he shammed sickness so
+often on that day I had to get another to go; then he made a regular
+practice of coming into my house, watching what my two attendants were
+doing, and going about the village with distorted statements against
+them.
+
+I clothed him, but he tried to make bad blood between the respectable
+Arab who supplied me with milk and myself, telling him that I abused
+him, and then he would come back, saying that he abused me! I can
+account for his conduct only by attributing it to that which we call
+ill-conditioned: I had to expel him from the house.
+
+I repaired a house to keep out the rain, and on the _23rd_ moved into
+it. I gave our Kasanga host a cloth and blanket; he is ill of pneumonia
+of both lungs.
+
+_28th March, 1869._--Flannel to the skin and tea very beneficial in the
+cure of my disease; my cough has ceased, and I walk half a mile. I am
+writing letters for home.
+
+_8th April, 1869._--Visited Moen� Mokaia, who sent me two fowls and
+rice; gave him two cloths. He added a sheep.
+
+_13th April, 1869._--Employed Suleyman to write notes to Governor of
+Unyemb�, Syde bin Salem Burashid, to make inquiries about the theft of
+my goods, as I meant to apply to Syed Majid, and wished to speak truly
+about his man Musa bin Salum, the chief depredator.
+
+Wrote also to Thani for boat and crew to go down Tanganyika.
+
+Syde bin Habib refused to allow his men to carry my letters to the
+coast; as he suspected that I would write about his doings in Rua.
+
+_27th April, 1869._--Syde had three canoes smashed in coming up past
+Thembw�; the wind and waves drove them on the rocks, and two were
+totally destroyed: they are heavy unmanageable craft, and at the mercy
+of any storm if they cannot get into a shut bay, behind the reeds and
+aquatic vegetation. One of the wrecks is said to have been worth 200
+dollars (40_l._).
+
+The season called Masika commenced this month with the usual rolling
+thunder, and more rain than in the month preceding.
+
+I have been busy writing letters home, and finished forty-two, which in
+some measure will make up for my long silence. The Ujijians are
+unwilling to carry my letters, because, they say, Seyed Majid will order
+the bearer to return with others: he may say, "You know where he is, go
+back to him," but I suspect they fear my exposure of their ways more
+than anything else.[4]
+
+_16th May, 1869._--Thani bin Suellim sent me a note yesterday to say
+that he would be here in two days, or say three; he seems the most
+active of the Ujijians, and I trust will help me to get a canoe and men.
+
+The malachite at Kata�ga is loosened by fire, then dug out of four
+hills: four manehs of the ore yield one maneh of copper, but those who
+cultivate the soil get more wealth than those who mine the copper.
+
+[No change of purpose was allowed to grow out of sickness and
+disappointment. Here and there, as in the words written on the next day,
+we find Livingstone again with his back turned to the coast and gazing
+towards the land of the Manyuema and the great rivers reported there.]
+_17th May, 1869._--Syde bin Habib arrived to-day with his cargo of
+copper and slaves. I have to change house again, and wish I were away,
+now that I am getting stronger. Attendants arrive from Parra or Mparra.
+
+[The old slave-dealer, whom he met at Casembe's, and who seems to have
+been set at liberty through Livingstone's instrumentality, arrives at
+Ujiji at last.]
+
+_18th May, 1869._--Mohamad bin Saleh arrived to-day. He left this when
+comparatively young, and is now well advanced in years.
+
+The Bakatala at Lualaba West killed Salem bin Habib. _Mem._--Keep clear
+of them. Makwamba is one of the chiefs of the rock-dwellers, Ngulu is
+another, and Masika-Kitobw� on to Baluba. Sef attached Kilolo N'tambw�.
+
+_19th May, 1869._--The emancipation of our West-Indian slaves was the
+work of but a small number of the people of England--the philanthropists
+and all the more advanced thinkers of the age. Numerically they were a
+very small minority of the population, and powerful only from the
+superior abilities of the leading men, and from having the right, the
+true, and just on their side. Of the rest of the population an immense
+number were the indifferent, who had no sympathies to spare for any
+beyond their own fireside circles. In the course of time sensation
+writers came up on the surface of society, and by way of originality
+they condemned almost every measure and person of the past.
+"Emancipation was a mistake;" and these fast writers drew along with
+them a large body, who would fain be slaveholders themselves. We must
+never lose sight of the fact that though the majority perhaps are on the
+side of freedom, large numbers of Englishmen are not slaveholders only
+because the law forbids the practice. In this proclivity we see a great
+part of the reason of the frantic sympathy of thousands with the rebels
+in the great Black war in America. It is true that we do sympathize
+with brave men, though we may not approve of the objects for which they
+fight. We admired Stonewall Jackson as a modern type of Cromwell's
+Ironsides; and we praised Lee for his generalship, which, after all, was
+chiefly conspicuous by the absence of commanding abilities in his
+opponents, but, unquestionably, there existed besides an eager desire
+that slaveocracy might prosper, and the Negro go to the wall. The
+would-be slaveholders showed their leanings unmistakably in reference to
+the Jamaica outbreak; and many a would-be Colonel Hobbs, in lack of
+revolvers, dipped his pen in gall and railed against all Niggers who
+could not be made slaves. We wonder what they thought of their hero,
+when informed that, for very shame at what he had done and written, he
+had rushed unbidden out of the world.
+
+_26th May, 1869._--Thani bin Suellim came from Unyanyemb� on the 20th.
+He is a slave who has risen to freedom and influence; he has a
+disagreeable outward squint of the right eye, teeth protruding from the
+averted lips, is light-coloured, and of the nervous type of African. He
+brought two light boxes from Unyemb�, and charged six fathoms for one
+and eight fathoms for the other, though the carriage of both had been
+paid for at Zanzibar. When I paid him he tried to steal, and succeeded
+with one cloth by slipping it into the hands of a slave. I gave him two
+cloths and a double blanket as a present. He discovered afterwards what
+he knew before, that all had been injured by the wet on the way here,
+and sent two back openly, which all saw to be an insult. He asked a
+little coffee, and I gave a plateful; and he even sent again for more
+coffee after I had seen reason to resent his sending back my present. I
+replied, "He won't send coffee back, for I shall give him none." In
+revenge he sends round to warn all the Ujijians against taking my
+letters to the coast; this is in accordance with their previous conduct,
+for, like the Kilwa people on the road to Nyassa, they have refused to
+carry my correspondence.
+
+This is a den of the worst kind of slave-traders; those whom I met in
+Urungu and Itawa were gentlemen slavers: the Ujiji slavers, like the
+Kilwa and Portuguese, are the vilest of the vile. It is not a trade, but
+a system of consecutive murders; they go to plunder and kidnap, and
+every trading trip is nothing but a foray. Moen� Mokaia, the headman of
+this place, sent canoes through to Nzig�, and his people, feeling their
+prowess among men ignorant of guns, made a regular assault but were
+repulsed, and the whole, twenty in number, were killed. Moen� Mokaia is
+now negotiating with Syde bin Habib to go and revenge this, for so much
+ivory, and all he can get besides. Syde, by trying to revenge the death
+of Salem bin Habib, his brother, on the Bakatala, has blocked up one
+part of the country against me, and will probably block Nzig�, for I
+cannot get a message sent to Chowamb� by anyone, and may have to go to
+Karagw� on foot, and then from Rumanyika down to this water.
+
+[In reference to the above we may add that there is a vocabulary of
+Masai words at the end of a memorandum-book. Livingstone compiled this
+with the idea that it would prove useful on his way towards the coast,
+should he eventually pass through the Masai country. No doubt some of
+the Arabs or their slaves knew the language, and assisted him at his
+work.]
+
+_29th May, 1869._--Many people went off to Unyemb�, and their houses
+were untenanted; I wished one, as I was in a lean-to of Zahor's, but the
+two headmen tried to secure the rent for themselves, and were defeated
+by Mohamad bin Saleh. I took my packet of letters to Thani, and gave two
+cloths and four bunches of beads to the man who was to take them to
+Unyanyemb�; an hour afterwards, letters, cloths, and beads were
+returned: Thani said he was afraid of English letters; he did not know
+what was inside. I had sewed them up in a piece of canvas, that was
+suspicious, and he would call all the great men of Ujiji and ask them if
+it would be safe to take them; if they assented he would call for the
+letters, if not he would not send them. I told Mohamad bin Saleh, and he
+said to Thani that he and I were men of the Government, and orders had
+come from Syed Majid to treat me with all respect: was this conduct
+respectful? Thani then sent for the packet, but whether it will reach
+Zanzibar I am doubtful. I gave the rent to the owner of the house and
+went into it on 31st May. They are nearly all miserable Suaheli at
+Ujiji, and have neither the manners nor the sense of Arabs.
+
+[We see in the next few lines how satisfied Livingstone was concerning
+the current in the Lake: he almost wishes to call Tanganyika _a river_.
+Here then is a problem left for the future explorer to determine.
+Although the Doctor proved by experiments during his lengthy stay at
+Ujiji that the set is towards the north, his two men get over the
+difficulty thus: "If you blow upon the surface of a basin of water on
+one side, you will cause the water at last to revolve round and round;
+so with Tanganyika, the prevailing winds produce a similar
+circulation.". They feel certain there is no outlet, because at one time
+or another they virtually completed the survey of the coast line and
+listened to native testimony besides. How the phenomenon of sweet water
+is to be accounted for we do not pretend to say. The reader will see
+further on that Livingstone grapples with the difficulty which this Lake
+affords, and propounds an exceedingly clever theory.]
+
+Tanganyika has encroached on the Ujiji side upwards of a mile, and the
+bank, which was in the memory of men now living, garden ground, is
+covered with about two fathoms of water: in this Tanganyika resembles
+most other rivers in this country, as the Upper Zambesi for instance,
+which in the Barots� country has been wearing eastwards for the last
+thirty years: this Lake, or river, has worn eastwards too.
+
+_1st June, 1869._--I am thankful to feel getting strong again, and wish
+to go down Tanganyika, but cannot get men: two months must elapse ere we
+can face the long grass and superabundant water in the way to Manyuema.
+
+[Illustration: Lines of Green Scum]
+
+The green scum which forms on still water in this country is of
+vegetable origin--conferv�. When the rains fall they swell the lagoons,
+and the scum is swept into the Lake; here it is borne along by the
+current from south to north, and arranged in long lines, which bend from
+side to side as the water flows, but always N.N.W. or N.N.E., and not
+driven, as here, by the winds, as plants floating above the level of the
+water would be.
+
+_7th June, 1869._--It is remarkable that all the Ujiji Arabs who have
+any opinion on the subject, believe that all the water in the north, and
+all the water in the south, too, flows into Tanganyika, but where it
+then goes they have no conjecture. They assert, as a matter of fact,
+that Tanganyika, Usig� water, and Loanda, are one and the same piece of
+river.
+
+Thani, on being applied to for men and a canoe to take me down this line
+of drainage, consented, but let me know that his people would go no
+further than Uvira, and then return. He subsequently said Usig�, but I
+wished to know what I was to do when left at the very point where I
+should be most in need. He replied, in his silly way, "My people are
+afraid; they won't go further; get country people," &c. Moenegher� sent
+men to Loanda to force a passage through, but his people were repulsed
+and twenty killed.
+
+Three men came yesterday from Mokamba, the greatest chief in Usig�,
+with four tusks as a present to his friend Moenegher�, and asking for
+canoes to be sent down to the end of Urundi country to bring butter and
+other things, which the three men could not bring: this seems an
+opening, for Mokamba being Moenegher�'s friend I shall prefer paying
+Moenegher� for a canoe to being dependent on Thani's skulkers. If the
+way beyond Mokamba is blocked up by the fatal skirmish referred to, I
+can go from Mokamba to Rumanyika, three or four or more days distant,
+and get guides from him to lead me back to the main river beyond Loanda,
+and by this plan only three days of the stream will be passed over
+unvisited. Thani would evidently like to receive the payment, but
+without securing to me the object for which I pay. He is a poor thing, a
+slaveling: Syed Majid, Sheikh Suleiman, and Koroj�, have all written to
+him, urging an assisting deportment in vain: I never see him but he begs
+something, and gives nothing, I suppose he expects me to beg from him. I
+shall be guided by Moenegher�.
+
+I cannot find anyone who knows where the outflow of the unvisited Lake
+S.W. of this goes; some think that it goes to the Western Ocean, or, I
+should say, the Congo. Mohamad Bogharib goes in a month to Manyuema, but
+if matters turn out as I wish, I may explore this Tanganyika line first.
+One who has been in Manyuema three times, and was of the first party
+that ever went there, says that the Manyuema are not cannibals, but a
+tribe west of them eats some parts of the bodies of those slain in war.
+Some people south of Moen�kuss[5], chief of Manyuema, build strong clay
+houses.
+
+_22nd June, 1869._--After listening to a great deal of talk I have come
+to the conclusion that I had better not go with Moenegher�'s people to
+Mokamba. I see that it is to be a mulcting, as in Speke's case: I am to
+give largely, though I am not thereby assured of getting down the river.
+They say, "You must give much, because you are a great man: Mokamba will
+say so"--though Mokamba knows nothing about me! It is uncertain whether
+I can get down through by Loanda, and great risk would be run in going
+to those who cut off the party of Moenegher�, so I have come to the
+conclusion that it will be better for me to go to Manyuema about a
+fortnight hence, and, if possible, trace down the western arm of the
+Nile to the north--if this arm is indeed that of the Nile, and not of
+the Congo. Nobody here knows anything about it, or, indeed, about the
+eastern or Tanganyika line either; they all confess that they have but
+one question in their minds in going anywhere, they ask for ivory and
+for nothing else, and each trip ends as a foray. Moenegher�'s last trip
+ended disastrously, twenty-six of his men being cut off; in extenuation
+he says that it was not his war but Mokamba's: he wished to be allowed
+to go down through Loanda, and as the people in front of Mokamba and
+Usig� own his supremacy, he said, "Send your force with mine and let us
+open the way," so they went on land and were killed. An attempt was made
+to induce Syde bin Habib to clear the way, and be paid in ivory, but
+Syde likes to battle with those who will soon run away and leave the
+spoil to him.
+
+The Manyuema are said to be friendly where they have not been attacked
+by Arabs: a great chief is reported as living on a large river flowing
+northwards, I hope to make my way to him, and I feel exhilarated at the
+thought of getting among people not spoiled by contact with Arab
+traders. I would not hesitate to run the risk of getting through Loanda,
+the continuation of Usig� beyond Mokamba's, had blood not been shed so
+very recently there; but it would at present be a great danger, and to
+explore some sixty miles of the Tanganyika line only. If I return
+hither from Manyuema my goods and fresh men from Zanzibar will have
+arrived, and I shall be better able to judge as to the course to be
+pursued after that. Mokamba is about twenty, miles beyond Uvira; the
+scene of Moenegher�'s defeat, is ten miles beyond Mokamba; so the
+unexplored part cannot be over sixty miles, say thirty if we take
+Baker's estimate of the southing of his water to be near the truth.
+
+Salem or Palamotto told me that he was sent for by a headman near to
+this to fight his brother for him: he went and demanded prepayment; then
+the brother sent him three tusks to refrain: Salem took them and came
+home. The Africans have had hard measures meted out to them in the
+world's history!
+
+_28th June, 1869._--The current in Tanganyika is well marked when the
+lighter-coloured water of a river flows in and does not at once mix--the
+Luish� at Ujiji is a good example, and it shows by large light greenish
+patches on the surface a current of nearly a mile an hour north. It
+begins to flow about February, and continues running north till November
+or December. Evaporation on 300 miles of the south is then at its
+strongest, and water begins to flow gently south till arrested by the
+flood of the great rains there, which takes place in February and March.
+There is, it seems, a reflux for about three months in each year, flow
+and reflow being the effect of the rains and evaporation on a lacustrine
+river of some three hundred miles in length lying south of the equator.
+The flow northwards I have myself observed, that again southwards rests
+on native testimony, and it was elicited from the Arabs by pointing out
+the northern current: they attributed the southern current to the effect
+of the wind, which they say then blows south. Being cooled by the rains,
+it comes south into the hot valley of this great Riverein Lake, or
+lacustrine river.
+
+In going to Moen�kuss, the paramount chief of the Manyuema, forty days
+are required. The headmen of trading parties remain with this chief (who
+is said by all to be a very good man), and send their people out in all
+directions to trade. Moenemogaia says that in going due north from
+Moen�kuss they come to a large river, the Robumba, which flows into and
+is the Luama, and that this again joins the Lualaba, which retains its
+name after flowing with the Lufira and Lofu into the still unvisited
+Lake S.S.W. of this: it goes thence due north, probably into Mr. Baker's
+part of the eastern branch of the Nile. When I have gone as far north
+along Lualaba as I can this year, I shall be able to judge as to the
+course I ought to take after receiving my goods and men from Zanzibar,
+and may the Highest direct me, so that I may finish creditably the work
+I have undertaken. I propose to start for Manyuema on the 3rd July.
+
+The dagala or nsip�, a small fish caught in great numbers in every
+flowing water, and very like whitebait, is said to emit its eggs by the
+mouth, and these immediately burst and the young fish manages for
+itself. The dagala never becomes larger than two or three inches in
+length. Some, putrefied, are bitter, as if the bile were in them in a
+good quantity. I have eaten them in Lunda of a pungent bitter taste,
+probably arising from the food on which the fish feeds. Men say that
+they have seen the eggs kept in the sides of the mouth till ready to go
+off as independent fishes. The ngh�d�-d�g�, a species of perch, and
+another, the ndusi, are said to do the same. The Arabs imagine that fish
+in general fall from the skies, but they except the shark, because they
+can see the young when it is cut open.
+
+_10th July, 1869._--After a great deal of delay and trouble about a
+canoe, we got one from Habee for ten dotis or forty yards of calico, and
+a doti or four yards to each of nine paddlers to bring the vessel back.
+Thani and Zahor blamed me for not taking their canoes for nothing; but
+they took good care not to give them, but made vague offers, which
+meant, "We want much higher pay for our dhows than Arabs generally
+get:" they showed such an intention to fleece me that I was glad to get
+out of their power, and save the few goods I had. I went a few miles,
+when two strangers I had allowed to embark (from being under obligations
+to their masters), worked against each other: so I had to let one land,
+and but for his master would have dismissed the other: I had to send an
+apology to the landed man's master for politeness' sake.
+
+[It is necessary to say a few words here, so unostentatiously does
+Livingstone introduce this new series of explorations to the reader. The
+Manyuema country, for which he set out on the 12th of July, 1869, was
+hitherto unknown. As we follow him we shall see that in almost every
+respect both the face of the country and the people differ from other
+regions lying nearer to the East Coast. It appears that the Arabs had an
+inkling of the vast quantities of ivory which might be procured there,
+and Livingstone went into the new field with the foremost of those
+hordes of Ujijian traders who, in all probability, will eventually
+destroy tribe after tribe by slave-trading and pillage, as they have
+done in so many other regions.]
+
+Off at 6 A.M., and passed the mouth of the Luish�, in Kibw� Bay; 3-1/2
+hours took us to Rombola or Lombola, where all the building wood of
+Ujiji is cut.
+
+_12th July, 1869._--Left at 1.30 A.M., and pulled 7-1/2 hours to the
+left bank of the Malagarasi River. We cannot go by day, because about 11
+A.M. a south-west wind commences to blow, which the heavy canoes cannot
+face; it often begins earlier or later, according to the phases of the
+moon. An east wind blows from sunrise till 10 or 11 A.M., and the
+south-west begins. The Malagarasi is of considerable size at its
+confluence, and has a large islet covered with eschinomena, or pith hat
+material, growing in its way.
+
+Were it not for the current Tanganyika would be covered with green scum
+now rolling away in miles of length and breadth to the north; it would
+also be salt like its shut-in bays. The water has now fallen two feet
+perpendicularly. It took us twelve hours to ascend to the Malagarasi
+River from Ujiji, and only seven to go down that distance. Prodigious
+quantities of conferv� pass us day and night in slow majestic flow. It
+is called Shuar�. But for the current Tanganyika would be covered with
+"Tikatika" too, like Victoria Nyanza.
+
+_13th July, 1869._--Off at 3.15 A.M., and in five hours reached Kabogo
+Eiver; from this point the crossing is always accomplished: it is about
+thirty miles broad. Tried to get off at 6 P.M., but after two miles the
+south wind blew, and as it is a dangerous wind and the usual one in
+storms, the men insisted on coming back, for the wind, having free
+scope along the entire southern length of Tanganyika, raises waves
+perilous to their heavy craft; after this the clouds cleared all away,
+and the wind died off too; the full moon shone brightly, and this is
+usually accompanied by calm weather here. Storms occur at new moon most
+frequently.
+
+_14th July, 1869._--Sounded in dark water opposite the high fountain
+Kabogo, 326 fathoms, but my line broke in coming up, and we did not see
+the armed end of the sounding lead with sand or mud on it: this is 1965
+feet.
+
+People awaking in fright utter most unearthly yells, and they are joined
+in them by all who sleep near. The first imagines himself seized by a
+wild beast, the rest roar because they hear him doing it: this indicates
+the extreme of helpless terror.
+
+_15th July, 1869._--After pulling all night we arrived at some islands
+and cooked breakfast, then we went on to Kaseng� islet on their south,
+and came up to Mohamad Bogharib, who had come from Tongw�, and intended
+to go to Manyuema. We cross over to the mainland, that is, to the
+western shore of the Lake, about 300 yards off, to begin our journey on
+the 21st. Lunars on 20th. Delay to prepare food for journey. Lunars
+again 22nd.
+
+A strong wind from the East to-day. A current sweeps round this islet
+Kis�ng� from N.E. to S.E., and carries trees and duckweed at more than
+a mile an hour in spite of the breeze blowing across it to the West. The
+wind blowing along the Lake either way raises up water, and in a calm it
+returns, off the shore. Sometimes it causes the current to go
+southwards. Tanganyika narrows at Uvira or Vira, and goes out of sight
+among the mountains there; then it appears as a waterfall into the Lake
+of Quando seen by Banyamwezi.
+
+_23rd July, 1869._--I gave a cloth to be kept for Kasanga, the chief of
+Kaseng�, who has gone to fight with the people of Goma.
+
+_1st August, 1869._--Mohamad killed a kid as a sort of sacrifice, and
+they pray to Hadrajee before eating it. The cookery is of their very
+best, and I always get a share; I tell them that I like the cookery, but
+not the prayers, and it is taken in good part.
+
+_2nd August, 1869._--We embarked from the islet and got over to the
+mainland, and slept in a hooked-thorn copse, with a species of black
+pepper plant, which we found near the top of Mount Zomba, in the
+Manganja country,[6] in our vicinity; it shows humidity of climate.
+
+_3rd August, 1869._--Marched 3-1/4 hours south, along Tanganyika, in a
+very undulating country; very fatiguing in my weakness. Passed many
+screw-palms, and slept at Lobamba village.
+
+_4th August, 1869._--A relative of Kasanga engaged to act as our guide,
+so we remained waiting for him, and employed a Banyamwezi smith to make
+copper balls with some bars of that metal presented by Syde bin Habib. A
+lamb wasstolen, and all declared that the deed must have been done by
+Banyamwezi. "At Guha people never steal," and I believe this is true.
+
+_7th August, 1869._--The guide having arrived, we marched 2-1/4 hours
+west and crossed the River Logumba, about forty yards broad and knee
+deep, with a rapid current between deep cut banks; it rises in the
+western Kabogo range, and flows about S.W. into Tanganyika. Much dura or
+_Holcus sorghum_ is cultivated on the rich alluvial soil on its banks by
+the Guha people.
+
+_8th August, 1869._--West through open forest; very undulating, and the
+path full of angular fragments of quartz. We see mountains in the
+distance.
+
+_9th-10th August, 1869._--Westwards to Makhato's village, and met a
+company of natives beating a drum as they came near; this is the peace
+signal; if war is meant the attack is quiet and stealthy. There are
+plenty of Masuko trees laden with fruit, but unripe. It is cold at
+night, but dry, and the people sleep with only a fence at their heads,
+but I have a shed built at every camp as a protection for the loads, and
+sleep in it.
+
+Any ascent, though gentle, makes me blow since the attack of pneumonia;
+if it is inclined to an angle of 45�, 100 or 150 yards make me stop to
+pant in distress.
+
+_11th August, 1869._--Came to a village of Ba Rua, surrounded by hills
+of some 200 feet above the plain; trees sparse.
+
+_12th-13th August, 1869._--At villages of Mekh�to. Guha people. Remain
+to buy and prepare food, and because many are sick.
+
+_16th August, 1869._--West and by north through much forest reach
+Kalalib�b�; buffalo killed.
+
+_17th August, 1869._--To a high mountain, Golu or Gulu, and sleep at its
+base.
+
+_18th August, 1869._--Cross two rills flowing into River Mgoluy�. Kagoya
+and Moish� flow into Lobumba.
+
+_19th August, 1869._--To the River Lobumba, forty-five yards Avide,
+thigh deep, and rapid current. Logumba and Lobumba are both from Kabogo
+Mounts: one goes into Tanganyika, and the other, or Lobumba, into and is
+the Luamo: prawns are found in this river. The country east of the
+Lobumba is called Lobanda, that west of it, Kitwa.
+
+_21st August, 1869._--Went on to the River Loungwa, which has worn for
+itself a rut in new red sandstone twenty feet deep, and only three or
+four feet wide at the lips.
+
+_25th August, 1869._--We rest because all are tired; travelling at this
+season is excessively fatiguing. It is very hot at even 10 A.M., and 2�
+or 3 hours tires the strongest--carriers especially so: during the rains
+five hours would not have fatigued so much as three do now. We are now
+on the same level as Tanganyika. The dense mass of black smoke rising
+from the burning grass and reeds on the Lobumba, or Robumba, obscures
+the sun, and very sensibly lowers the temperature of the sultriest day;
+it looks like the smoke in Martin's pictures. The Manyuema arrows here
+are very small, and made of strong grass stalks, but poisoned, the large
+ones, for elephants and buffaloes, are poisoned also.
+
+_31st August, 1869._--Course N.W. among Palmyras and Hyphen� Palms, and
+many villages swarming with people. Crossed Kibila, a hot fountain about
+120�, to sleep at Kolokolo River, five yards wide, and knee deep: midway
+we passed the River Kanzazala. On asking the name of a mountain on our
+right I got three names for it--Kaloba, Chingedi, and Kihomba, a fair
+specimen of the superabundance of names in this country!
+
+_1st September, 1869._--West in flat forest, then cross Kishila River,
+and go on to Kund�'s villages. The Katamba is a fine rivulet. Kund� is
+an old man without dignity or honour: he came to beg, but offered
+nothing.
+
+_2nd September, 1869._--We remained at Katamba to hunt buffaloes and
+rest, as I am still weak. A young elephant was killed, and I got the
+heart: the Arabs do not eat it, but that part is nice if well cooked.
+
+A Lunda slave, for whom I interceded to be freed of the yoke, ran away,
+and as he is near the Barna, his countrymen, he will be hidden. He told
+his plan to our guide, and asked to accompany him back to Tanganyika,
+but he is eager to deliver him up for a reward: all are eager to press
+each other down in the mire into which they are already sunk.
+
+_5th September, 1869._--Kund�'s people refused the tusks of an elephant
+killed by our hunter, asserting that they had killed it themselves with
+a hoe: they have no honour here, as some have elsewhere.
+
+_7th September, 1869._--W. and N.W., through forest and immense fields
+of cassava, some three years old, with roots as thick as a stout man's
+leg.
+
+_8th September, 1869._--Across five rivers and through many villages.
+The country is covered with ferns and gingers, and miles and miles of
+cassava. On to village of Karun-gamagao.
+
+_9th September, 1869._--Rest again to shoot meat, as elephants and
+buffaloes are very abundant: the Suaheli think that adultery is an
+obstacle to success in killing this animal: no harm can happen to him
+who is faithful to his wife, and has the proper charms inserted under
+the skin of his forearms.
+
+_10th September, 1869._--North and north-west, over four rivers, and.
+past the village of Makala, to near that of Pyana-mosind�.
+
+_12th September, 1869._--We had wandered, and now came back to our path
+on hilly ground. The days are sultry and smoking. We came to some
+villages of Pyana-mosind�; the population prodigiously large. A sword
+was left at the camp, and at once picked up; though the man was traced
+to a village it was refused, till he accidentally cut his foot with it,
+and became afraid that worse would follow, elsewhere it would have been
+given up at once: Pyana-mosind� came out and talked very sensibly.
+
+_13th September, 1869._--Along towards the Moloni or Mononi; cross seven
+rills. The people seized three slaves who lagged behind, but hearing a
+gun fired at guinea-fowls let them go. Route N.
+
+_14th September, 1869._--Up and down hills perpetually. We went down
+into some deep dells, filled with gigantic trees, and I measured one
+twenty feet in circumference, and sixty or seventy feet high to the
+first branches; others seemed fit to be ship's spars. Large lichens
+covered many and numerous new plants appeared on the ground.
+
+_15th September, 1869._--Got clear of the mountains after 1-1/2 hour, and
+then the vast valley of Mamba opened out before us; very beautiful, and
+much of it cleared of trees. Met Dugumb� carrying 18,000 lbs. of ivory,
+purchased in this new field very cheaply, because no traders had ever
+gone into the country beyond Bambarr�, or Moen�kuss's district before.
+We were now in the large bend of the Lualaba, which is here much larger
+than at Mpw�to's, near Moero Lake. River Kesingw�.
+
+_16th September, 1869._--To Kasangangazi's. We now came to the first
+palm-oil trees (_Elais Guineensis_) in our way since we left Tanganyika.
+They had evidently been planted at villages. Light-grey parrots, with
+red tails, also became common, whose name, Kuss or Koos, gives the chief
+his name, Moen�kuss ("Lord of the Parrot"); but the Manyuema
+pronunciation is Monanjoos�. Much reedy grass, fully half an inch in
+diameter in the stalk on our route, and over the top of the range
+Moloni, which we ascended: the valleys are impassable.
+
+_17th September, 1869._--Remain to buy food at Kasanga's, and rest the
+carriers. The country is full of pahn-oil palms, and very beautiful. Our
+people are all afraid to go out of sight of the camp for necessary
+purposes, lest the Manyuema should kill them. Here was the barrier to
+traders going north, for the very people among whom we now are, murdered
+anyone carrying a tusk, till last year, when Moene-mokaia, or Katomba,
+got into friendship with Moen�kuss, who protected his people, and always
+behaved in a generous sensible manner. Dilongo, now a chief here, came
+to visit us: his elder brother died, and he was elected; he does not
+wash in consequence, and is very dirty.
+
+Two buffaloes were killed yesterday. The people have their bodies
+tattooed with new and full moons, stars, crocodiles, and Egyptian
+gardens.
+
+_19th September, 1869._--We crossed several rivulets three yards to
+twelve yards, and calf deep. The mountain where we camped is called
+Sangom�lamb�.
+
+_20th September, 1869._--Up to a broad range of high mountains of light
+grey granite; there are deep dells on the top filled with gigantic
+trees, and having running rills in them. Some trees appear with enormous
+roots, buttresses in fact like mangroves in the coast swamps, six feet
+high at the trunk and flattened from side to side to about three inches
+in diameter. There are many villages dotted over the slopes which we
+climbed; one had been destroyed, and revealed the hard clay walls and
+square forms of Manyuema houses. Our path lay partly along a ridge, with
+a deep valley on each side: one on the left had a valley filled with
+primeval forests, into which elephants when wounded escape completely.
+The forest was a dense mass, without a bit of ground to be seen except a
+patch on the S.W., the bottom of this great valley was 2000 feet below
+us, then ranges of mountains with villages on their bases rose as far as
+they could reach. On our right there was another deep but narrow gorge,
+and mountains much higher than on our ridge close adjacent. Our ridge
+looked like a glacier, and it wound from side to side, and took us to
+the edge of deep precipices, first on the right, then on the left, till
+down below we came to the villages of Chief Monandenda. The houses here
+are all well filled with firewood on shelves, and each has a bed on a
+raised platform in an inner room.
+
+The paths are very skilfully placed on the tops of the ridges of hills,
+and all gullies are avoided. If the highest level were not in general
+made the ground for passing through the country the distances would at
+least be doubled, and the fatigue greatly increased. The paths seem to
+have been used for ages: they are worn deep on the heights; and in
+hollows a little mound rises on each side, formed by the feet tossing a
+little soil on one side.
+
+_21st September, 1869._--Cross five or six rivulets, and as many
+villages, some burned and deserted, or inhabited. Very many people come
+running to see the strangers. Gigantic trees all about the villages.
+Arrive at Bambarr� or Moen�kuss.
+
+About eighty hours of actual travelling, say at 2' per hour = say 160'
+or 140'. Westing from 3rd August to 21st September. My strength
+increased as I persevered. From Tanganyika west bank say =
+
+    29� 30' east - 140' = 2� 20,'
+     2  20
+    -------
+    27� 10' Long.
+
+Chief village of Moen�kuss.
+
+Observations show a little lower altitude than Tanganyika.
+
+_22nd September, 1869._--Moen�kuss died lately, and left his two sons to
+fill his place. Moenembagg is the elder of the two, and the most
+sensible, and the spokesman on all important occasions, but his younger
+brother, Moenemgoi, is the chief, the centre of authority. They showed
+symptoms of suspicion, and Mohamad performed the ceremony of mixing
+blood, which is simply making a small incision on the forearm of each
+person, and then mixing the bloods, and making declarations of
+friendship. Moenembagg said, "Your people must not steal, we never do,"
+which is true: blood in a small quantity was then conveyed from one to
+the other by a fig-leaf. "No stealing of fowls or of men," said the
+chief: "Catch the thief and bring him to me, one who steals a person is
+a pig," said Mohamad. Stealing, however, began on our side, a slave
+purloining a fowl, so they had good reason to enjoin honesty on us! They
+think that we have come to kill them: we light on them as if from
+another world: no letters come to tell who we are, or what we want. We
+cannot conceive their state of isolation and helplessness, with nothing
+to trust to but their charms and idols--both being bits of wood. I got a
+large beetle hung up before an idol in the idol house of a deserted and
+burned village; the guardian was there, but the village destroyed.
+
+I presented the two brothers with two table cloths, four bunches of
+beads, and one string of neck-beads; they were well satisfied.
+
+A wood here when burned emits a horrid f�cal smell, and one would think
+the camp polluted if one fire was made of it. I had a house built for me
+because the village huts are inconvenient, low in roof, and low
+doorways; the men build them, and help to cultivate the soil, but the
+women have to keep them well filled with firewood and supplied with
+water. They carry the wood, and almost everything else in large baskets,
+hung to the shoulders, like the Edinburgh fishwives. A man made a long
+loud prayer to Mulungu last night after dark for rain.
+
+The sons of Moen�kuss have but little of their father's power, but they
+try to behave to strangers as he did. All our people are in terror of
+the Many�ma, or Manyuema, man-eating fame: a woman's child had crept
+into a quiet corner of the hut to eat a banana--she could not find him,
+and at once concluded that the Manyuema had kidnapped him to eat him,
+and with a yell she ran through the camp and screamed at the top of her
+shrill voice, "Oh, the Manyuema have stolen my child to make meat of
+him! Oh, my child eaten--oh, oh!"
+
+_26th-28th September, 1869._--A Lunda slave-girl was sent off to be sold
+for a tusk, but the Manyuema don't want slaves, as we were told in
+Lunda, for they are generally thieves, and otherwise bad characters. It
+is now clouded over and preparing for rain, when sun comes overhead.
+Small-pox comes every three or four years, and kills many of the people.
+A soko alive was believed to be a good charm for rain; so one was
+caught, and the captor had the ends of two fingers and toes bitten off.
+The soko or gorillah always tries to bite off these parts, and has been
+known to overpower a young man and leave him without the ends of fingers
+and toes. I saw the nest of one: it is a poor contrivance; no more
+architectural skill shown than in the nest of our Cushat dove.
+
+_29th September, 1869._--I visited a hot fountain, an hour west of our
+camp, which has five eyes, temperature 150�, slightly saline taste, and
+steam issues constantly. It is called Kasugw� Colambu. Earthquakes are
+well known, and to the Manyuema they seem to come from the east to west;
+pots rattle and fowls cackle on these occasions.
+
+_2nd October, 1869._--A rhinoceros was shot, and party sent off to the
+River Luamo to buy ivory.
+
+_5th October, 1869._--An elephant was killed, and the entire population
+went off to get meat, which was given freely at first, but after it was
+known how eagerly the Manyuema sought it, six or eight goats were
+demanded for a carcase and given.
+
+_9th October, 1869._--The rite of circumcision is general among all the
+Manyuema; it is performed on the young. If a headman's son is to be
+operated on, it is tried on a slave first; certain times of the year are
+unpropitious, as during a drought for instance; but having by this
+experiment ascertained the proper time, they go into the forest, beat
+drums, and feast as elsewhere: contrary to all African custom they are
+not ashamed to speak about the rite, even before women.
+
+Two very fine young men came to visit me to-day. After putting several
+preparatory inquiries as to where our country lay, &c., they asked
+whether people died with us, and where they went to after death. "Who
+kills them?" "Have you no charm (Buanga) against death?" It is not
+necessary to answer such questions save in a land never visited by
+strangers. Both had the "organs of intelligence" largely developed. I
+told them that we prayed to the Great Father, "Mulungu," and He hears us
+all; they thought this to be natural.
+
+_14th October, 1869._--An elephant killed was of the small variety, and
+only 5 feet 8 inches high at the withers. The forefoot was in
+circumference 3 feet 9 inches, which doubled gives 7 feet 6 inches; this
+shows a deviation from the usual rule "twice round the forefoot = the
+height of the animal." Heart 1-1/2 foot long, tusks 6 feet 8 inches in
+length.
+
+_15th October, 1869._--Fever better, and thankful. Very cold and rainy.
+
+_18th October, 1869._--Our Hassani returned from Moen� Kirumbo's; then
+one of Dugumb�'s party (also called Hassani) seized ten goats and ten
+slaves before leaving, though great kindness had been shown: this is
+genuine Suaheli or Nigger-Moslem tactics--four of his people were killed
+in revenge.
+
+A whole regiment of Soldier ants in my hut were put into a panic by a
+detachment of Driver ants called Sirufu. The Chungu or black soldiers
+rushed out with their eggs and young, putting them down and running for
+more. A dozen Sirafu pitched on one Chungu and killed him. The Chungu
+made new quarters for themselves. When the white ants cast off their
+colony of winged emigrants a canopy is erected like an umbrella over the
+ant-hill. As soon as the ants fly against the roof they tumble down in a
+shower and their wings instantly become detached from their bodies. They
+are then helpless, and are swept up in baskets to be fried, when they
+make a very palatable food.
+
+[Illustration: Catching Ants.]
+
+_24th-25th October, 1869._--Making copper rings, as these are highly
+prized by Manyuema. Mohamad's Temb� fell. It had been begun on an
+unlucky day, the 26th of the moon; and on another occasion on the same
+day, he had fifty slaves swept away by a sudden flood of a dry river in
+the Obena country: they are great observers of lucky and unlucky days.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] On showing Chuma and Susi some immense Cochin-China fowls at a
+poultry show, they said that they were not larger than those which
+they saw when with Dr. Livingstone on these islands. Muscovy ducks
+abound throughout Central Africa.--ED.
+
+[2] The natural dress of the Malagash.
+
+[3] The same as Unyanyemb�, the half-way settlement on the great
+caravan road from the coast to the interior.
+
+[4] These letters must have been destroyed purposely by the Arabs, for
+they never arrived at Zanzibar.--ED.
+
+[5] It is curious that this name occurs amongst the Zulu tribes south
+of the Zambesi, and, as it has no vowel at the end, appears to be of
+altogether foreign origin.--ED.
+
+[6] In 1859.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumb�'s ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resum� of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters.
+
+
+_1st November, 1869._--Being now well rested, I resolved to go west to
+Lualaba and buy a canoe for its exploration. Our course was west and
+south-west, through a country surpassingly beautiful, mountainous, and
+villages perched on the talus of each great mass for the sake of quick
+drainage. The streets often run east and west, in order that the bright
+blazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from off them. The dwelling
+houses are generally in line, with public meeting houses at each end,
+opposite the middle of the street, the roofs are low, but well thatched
+with a leaf resembling the banana leaf, but more tough; it seems from
+its fruit to be a species of Euphorbia. The leaf-stack has a notch made
+in it of two or three inches lengthways, and this hooks on to the
+rafters, which are often of the leaf-stalks of palms, split up so as to
+be thin; the water runs quickly off this roof, and the walls, which are
+of well-beaten clay, are screened from the weather. Inside, the
+dwellings are clean and comfortable, and before the Arabs came bugs were
+unknown--as I have before observed, one may know where these people have
+come by the presence or absence of these nasty vermin: the human tick,
+which infests all Arab and Suaheli houses, is to the Manyuema unknown.
+
+In some cases, where the south-east rains are abundant, the Manyuema
+place the back side of the houses to this quarter, and prolong the low
+roof down, so that the rain does not reach the walls. These clay walls
+stand for ages, and men often return to the villages they left in
+infancy and build again the portions that many rains have washed away.
+The country generally is of clayey soil, and suitable for building. Each
+housewife has from twenty-five to thirty earthen pots slung to the
+ceiling by very neat cord-swinging tressels; and often as many neatly
+made baskets hung up in the same fashion, and much firewood.
+
+_5th November, 1869._--In going we crossed the River Luela, of twenty
+yards in width, five times, in a dense dripping forest. The men of one
+village always refused to accompany us to the next set of hamlets, "They
+were at war, and afraid of being killed and eaten." They often came five
+or six miles through the forests that separate the districts, but when
+we drew near to the cleared spaces cultivated by their enemies they
+parted civilly, and invited us to come the same way back, and they would
+sell us all the food we required.
+
+The Manyuema country is all surpassingly beautiful. Palms crown the
+highest heights of the mountains, and their gracefully bended fronds
+wave beautifully in the wind; and the forests, usually about five miles
+broad, between groups of villages, are indescribable. Climbers of cable
+size in great numbers are hung among the gigantic trees, many unknown
+wild fruits abound, some the size of a child's head, and strange birds
+and monkeys are everywhere. The soil is excessively rich, and the
+people, although isolated by old feuds that are never settled,
+cultivate largely. They have selected a kind of maize that bends its
+fruit-stalk round into a hook, and hedges some eighteen feet high are
+made by inserting poles, which sprout like Robinson Crusoe's hedge, and
+never decay. Lines of climbing plants are tied so as to go along from
+pole to pole, and the maize cobs are suspended to these by their own
+hooked fruit-stalk. As the corn cob is forming, the hook is turned
+round, so that the fruit-leaves of it hang down and form a thatch for
+the grain beneath, or inside it. This upright granary forms a
+solid-looking, wall round the villages, and the people are not stingy,
+but take down maize and hand it to the men freely.
+
+The women are very naked. They bring loads of provisions to sell,
+through the rain, and are eager traders for beads. Plantains, cassava,
+and maize, are the chief food. The first rains had now begun, and the
+white ants took the hint to swarm and colonize.
+
+_6th, 7th, and 8th November, 1869._--We came to many large villages, and
+were variously treated; one headman presented me with a parrot, and on
+my declining it, gave it to one of my people; some ordered us off, but
+were coaxed to allow us to remain over night. They have no restraint;
+some came and pushed off the door of my hut with a stick while I was
+resting, as we should do with a wild-beast cage.
+
+Though reasonably willing to gratify curiosity, it becomes tiresome to
+be the victim of unlimited staring by the ugly, as well as by the
+good-looking. I can bear the women, but ugly males are uninteresting,
+and it is as much as I can stand when a crowd will follow me wherever I
+move. They have heard of Dugumb� Hassani's deeds, and are evidently
+suspicious of our intentions: they say, "If you have food at home, why
+come so far and spend your beads to buy it here?" If it is replied, on
+the strength of some of Mohamad's people being present, "We want to buy
+ivory too;" not knowing its value they think that this is a mere
+subterfuge to plunder them. Much palm-wine to-day at different parts
+made them incapable of reasoning further; they seemed inclined to fight,
+but after a great deal of talk we departed without collision.
+
+_9th November, 1869._--We came to villages where all were civil, but
+afterwards arrived where there were other palm-trees and palm-toddy, and
+people low and disagreeable in consequence. The mountains all around are
+grand, and tree-covered. I saw a man with two great great toes: the
+double toe is usually a little one.
+
+_11th November, 1869._--We had heard that the Manyuema were eager to buy
+slaves, but that meant females only to make wives of them: they prefer
+goats to men. Mohamad had bought slaves in Lunda in order to get ivory
+from these Manyuema, but inquiry here and elsewhere brought it out
+plainly that they would rather let the ivory lie unused or rot than
+invest in male slaves, who are generally criminals--at least in Lunda. I
+advised my friend to desist from buying slaves who would all "eat off
+their own heads," but he knew better than to buy copper, and on our
+return he acknowledged that I was right.
+
+_15th November, 1869._--We came into a country where Dugumb�'s slaves
+had maltreated the people greatly, and they looked on us as of the same
+tribe, and we had much trouble in consequence. The country is swarming
+with villages. Hassani of Dugumb� got the chief into debt, and then
+robbed him of ten men and ten goats to clear off the debt: The Dutch did
+the same in the south of Africa.
+
+_17th November, 1869._--Copious rains brought us to a halt at Muana
+Balang�'s, on the banks of the Luamo River. Moerekurambo had died
+lately, and his substitute took seven goats to the chiefs on the other
+side in order to induce them to come in a strong party and attack us for
+Hassani's affair.
+
+_20th to 25th November, 1869._--We were now only about ten miles from
+the confluence of the Luamo and Lualaba, but all the people had been
+plundered, and some killed by the slaves of Dugumb�. The Luamo is here
+some 200 yards broad and deep; the chiefs everywhere were begged to
+refuse us a passage. The women were particularly outspoken in asserting
+our identity with the cruel strangers, and when one lady was asked in
+the midst of her vociferation just to look if I were of the same colour
+with Dugumb�, she replied with a bitter little laugh, "Then you must be
+his father!"
+
+It was of no use to try to buy a canoe, for all were our enemies. It was
+now the rainy season, and I had to move with great caution. The worst
+our enemies did, after trying to get up a war in vain, was to collect as
+we went by in force fully armed with their large spears and huge wooden
+shields, and show us out of their districts. All are kind except those
+who have been abused by the Arab slaves. While waiting at Luamo a man,
+whom we sent over to buy food, got into a panic and fled he knew not
+whither; all concluded that he had been murdered, but some Manyuema whom
+we had never seen found him, fed him, and brought him home unscathed: I
+was very glad that no collision had taken place. We returned to Bambarr�
+19th December, 1869.
+
+_20th December, 1869._--While we were away a large horde of Ujijians
+came to Bambarr�, all eager to reach the cheap ivory, of which a rumour
+had spread far and wide; they numbered 500 guns, and invited Mohamad to
+go with them, but he preferred waiting for my return from the west. We
+now resolved to go due north; he to buy ivory, and I to reach another
+part of the Lualaba and buy a canoe.
+
+Wherever the dense primeval forest has been cleared off by man, gigantic
+grasses usurp the clearances. None of the sylvan vegetation can stand
+the annual grass-burnings except a species of Bauhinia, and occasionally
+a large tree which sends out new wood below the burned places. The
+parrots build thereon, and the men make a stair up 150 feet by tying
+climbing plants (called Binayoba) around, at about four feet distance,
+as steps: near the confluence of the Luamo, men build huts on this same
+species of tree for safety against the arrows of their enemies.
+
+_21st December, 1869._--The strong thick grass of the clearances dries
+down to the roots at the surface of the soil, and fire does it no harm.
+Though a few of the great old burly giants brave the fires, none of the
+climbers do: they disappear, but the plants themselves are brought out
+of the forests and ranged along the plantations like wire fences to keep
+wild beasts off; the poles of these vegetable wire hedges often take
+root, as also those in stages for maize.
+
+_22nd, 23rd, and 24th December, 1869._--Mohamad presented a goat to be
+eaten on our Christmas. I got large copper bracelets made of my copper
+by Manyuema smiths, for they are considered very valuable, and have
+driven iron bracelets quite out of fashion.
+
+_25th December, 1869._--We start immediately after Christmas: I must try
+with all my might to finish my exploration before next Christmas.
+
+_26th December, 1869._--I get fever severely, and was down all day, but
+we march, as I have always found that moving is the best remedy for
+fever: I have, however, no medicine whatever. We passed over the neck of
+Mount Kinyima, north-west of Moen�kuss, through very slippery forest,
+and encamped on the banks of the Lulwa Rivulet.
+
+_28th December, 1869._--Away to Monangoi's village, near the Luamo
+River, here 150 or more yards wide and deep. A man passed us, bearing a
+human finger wrapped in a leaf; it was to be used as a charm, and
+belonged to a man killed in revenge: the Arabs all took this as clear
+evidence of cannibalism: I hesitated, however, to believe it.
+
+_29th, 30th, and 31st December, 1869._--Heavy rains. The Luamo is called
+the Luass� above this. We crossed in canoes.
+
+_1st January, 1870._--May the Almighty help me to finish, the work in
+hand, and retire through the Basango before the year is out. Thanks for
+all last year's loving kindness.
+
+Our course was due north, with the Luass� flowing in a gently undulating
+green country on our right, and rounded mountains in Mbongo's country on
+our left.
+
+_2nd January, 1870._--Rested a day at Mbongo's, as the people were
+honest.
+
+_3rd January, 1870._--Reached a village at the edge of a great forest,
+where the people were excited and uproarious, but not ill-bred, they ran
+alongside the path with us shouting and making energetic remarks to each
+other about us. A newly-married couple stood in a village where we
+stopped to inquire the way, with arms around each other very lovingly,
+and no one joked or poked fun at them. We marched five hours through
+forest and crossed three rivulets and much stagnant water which the sun
+by the few rays he darts in cannot evaporate. We passed several huge
+traps for elephants: they are constructed thus--a log of heavy wood,
+about 20 feet long, has a hole at one end for a climbing plant to pass
+through and suspend it, at the lower end a mortice is cut out of the
+side, and a wooden lance about 2 inches broad by 1-1/2 thick, and about
+4 feet long, is inserted firmly in the mortice; a latch down on the
+ground, when touched by the animal's foot, lets the beam run down on to
+his body, and the great weight of the wood drives in the lance and kills
+the animal. I saw one lance which had accidentally fallen, and it had
+gone into the stiff clay soil two feet.
+
+_4th January, 1870._--- The villagers we passed were civil, but like
+noisy children, all talked and gazed. When surrounded by 300 or 400,
+some who have not been accustomed to the ways of wild men think that a
+fight is imminent; but, poor things, no attack is thought of, if it does
+not begin on our side. Many of Mohamad's people were dreadfully afraid
+of being killed and eaten; one man out in search of ivory seemed to have
+lost sight of his companions, for they saw him running with all his
+might to a forest with no path in it; he was searched for for several
+days, and was given up as a murdered man, a victim of the cannibal
+Manyuema! On the seventh day after he lost his head, he was led into
+camp by a headman, who not only found him wandering but fed and lodged
+and restored him to his people.
+
+[With reference to the above we may add that nothing can exceed the
+terror in which cannibal nations are held by other African tribes. It
+was common on the River Shir� to hear Manganja and Ajawa people speak of
+tribes far away to the north who eat human bodies, and on every occasion
+the fact was related with the utmost horror and disgust.]
+
+The women here plait the hair into the form of a basket behind; it is
+first rolled into a very long coil, then wound round something till it
+is about 8 or 10 inches long, projecting from the back of the head.
+
+_5th, 6th, and 7th January, 1870._--Wettings by rain and grass
+overhanging our paths, with bad water, brought on choleraic symptoms;
+and opium from Mohamad had no effect in stopping it: he, too, had
+rheumatism. On suspecting the water as the cause, I had all I used
+boiled, and this was effectual, but I was greatly reduced in flesh, and
+so were many of our party.
+
+We proceeded nearly due north, through wilderness and many villages and
+running rills; the paths are often left to be choked up by the
+overbearing vegetation, and then the course of the rill is adopted as
+the only clear passage; it has also this advantage, it prevents
+footmarks being followed by enemies: in fact the object is always to
+make approaches to human dwellings as difficult as possible, even the
+hedges around villages sprout out and grow a living fence, and this is
+covered by a great mass of a species of calabash with its broad leaves,
+so that nothing appears of the fence outside.
+
+_11th January, 1870._--The people are civil, but uproarious from the
+excitement of having never seen strangers before; all visitors from a
+distance came with their large wooden shields; many of the men are
+handsome and tall but the women are plainer than at Bambarr�.
+
+_12th January, 1870._--Cross the Lolind�, 35 yards and knee deep,
+flowing to join Luamo far down: dark water. (_13th._) Through the hills
+Chimun�mun�; we see many albinos and partial lepers and syphilis is
+prevalent. It is too trying to travel during the rains.
+
+_14th January, 1870._--The Muab� palm had taken possession of a broad
+valley, and the leaf-stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm and 20 feet
+long, had fallen off and blocked up all passage except by one path made
+and mixed up by the feet of buffaloes and elephants. In places like this
+the leg goes into elephants' holes up to the thigh and it is grievous;
+three hours of this slough tired the strongest: a brown stream ran
+through the centre, waist deep, and washed off a little of the adhesive
+mud. Our path now lay through a river covered with tikatika, a living
+vegetable bridge made by a species of glossy leafed grass which felts
+itself into a mat capable of bearing a man's weight, but it bends in a
+foot or fifteen inches every step; a stick six feet long could not reach
+the bottom in certain holes we passed. The lotus, or sacred lily, which
+grows in nearly all the shallow waters of this country, sometimes
+spreads its broad leaves over the bridge so as to lead careless
+observers to think that it is the bridge builder, but the grass
+mentioned is the real agent. Here it is called Kint�fw�t�fw�; on
+Victoria Nyanza Titatika.
+
+_15th January, 1870._--Choleraic purging again came on till all the
+water used was boiled, but I was laid up by sheer weakness near the hill
+Chanza.
+
+_20th and 21st January. 1870._--Weakness and illness goes on because we
+get wet so often; the whole party suffers, and they say that they will
+never come here again. The Manyango Rivulet has fine sweet water, but
+the whole country is smothered with luxuriant vegetation.
+
+_27th, 29th, and 30th January, 1870._--Rest from sickness in camp. The
+country is indescribable from rank jungle of grass, but the rounded
+hills are still pretty; an elephant alone can pass through it--these are
+his head-quarters. The stalks are from half an inch to an inch and a
+half in diameter, reeds clog the feet, and the leaves rub sorely on the
+face and eyes: the view is generally shut in by this megatherium grass,
+except when we come to a slope down to a valley or the bed of a rill.
+
+We came to a village among fine gardens of maize, bananas, ground-nuts,
+and cassava, but the villagers said, "Go on to next village;" and this
+meant, "We don't want you here." The main body of Mohamad's people was
+about three miles before us, but I was so weak I sat down in the next
+hamlet and asked for a hut to rest in. A woman with leprous hands gave
+me hers, a nice clean one, and very heavy rain came on: of her own
+accord she prepared dumplings of green maize, pounded and boiled; which
+are sweet, for she said that she saw I was hungry. It was excessive
+weakness from purging, and seeing that I did not eat for fear of the
+leprosy, she kindly pressed me: "Eat, you are weak only from hunger;
+this will strengthen you." I put it out of her sight, and blessed her
+motherly heart.
+
+I had ere this come to the conclusion that I ought not to risk myself
+further in the rains in my present weakness, for it may result in
+something worse, as in Marungu and Liemba.
+
+The horde mentioned as having passed Bambarr� was now somewhere in our
+vicinity, and it was impossible to ascertain from the Manyuema where the
+Lualaba lay.
+
+In going north on 1st February we came to some of this horde belonging
+to Katomba or Moene-mokaia, who stated that the leader was anxious for
+advice as to crossing Lualaba and future movements. He supposed that
+this river was seven days in front of him, and twelve days in front of
+us. It is a puzzle from its north-westing and low level: it is possibly
+Petherick's Bahr Ghazal. Could get no latitude.
+
+_2nd February, 1870._--I propose to cross it, and buy an exploring
+canoe, because I am recovering my strength; but we now climb over the
+bold hills Bininango, and turn south-west towards Katomba to take
+counsel: he knows more than anyone else about the country, and his
+people being now scattered everywhere seeking ivory, I do not relish
+their company.
+
+_3rd February, 1870._--Caught in a drenching rain, which made me fain to
+sit, exhausted as I was, under an umbrella for an hour trying to keep
+the trunk dry. As I sat in the rain a little tree-frog, about half an
+inch long, leaped on to a grassy leaf, and began a tune as loud as that
+of many birds, and very sweet; it was surprising to hear so much music
+out of so small a musician. I drank some rain-water as I felt faint--in
+the paths it is now calf deep. I crossed a hundred yards of slush waist
+deep in mid channel, and full of holes made by elephants' feet, the path
+hedged in by reedy grass, often intertwined and very tripping. I
+stripped off my clothes on reaching my hut in a village, and a fire
+during night nearly dried them. At the same time I rubbed my legs with
+palm oil, and in the morning had a delicious breakfast of sour goat's
+milk and porridge.
+
+_5th February, 1870._--The drenching told on me sorely, and it was
+repeated after we had crossed the good-sized rivulets Mulunkula and many
+villages, and I lay on an enormous boulder under a Muab� palm, and slept
+during the worst of the pelting. I was seven days southing to Mamohela,
+Katomba's camp, and quite knocked up and exhausted. I went into winter
+quarters on 7th February, 1870.
+
+_7th February, 1870._--This was the camp of the headman of the ivory
+horde now away for ivory. Katomba, as Moene-mokaia is called, was now all
+kindness. We were away from his Ujijian associates, and he seemed to
+follow his natural bent without fear of the other slave-traders, who all
+hate to see me as a spy on their proceedings. Rest, shelter, and boiling
+all the water I used, and above all the new species of potato called
+Nyumbo, much famed among the natives as restorative, soon put me all to
+rights. Katomba supplied me liberally with nyumbo; and, but for a
+slightly medicinal taste, which is got rid of by boiling in two waters,
+this vegetable would be equal to English potatoes.
+
+_11th February, 1870._--First of all it was proposed to go off to the
+Lualaba in the north-west, in order to procure _Holcus sorghum_ or dura
+flour, that being, in Arab opinion, nearly equal to wheat, or as they
+say "heating," while the maize flour we were obliged to use was cold or
+cooling.
+
+_13th February, 1870._--I was too ill to go through mud waist deep, so I
+allowed Mohamad (who was suffering much) to go away alone in search of
+ivory. As stated above, shelter and nyumbo proved beneficial.
+
+_22nd February, 1870._--Falls between Vira and Baker's Water seen by
+Wanyamwezi. This confirms my conjecture on finding Lualaba at a lower
+level than Tanganyika. Bin Habib went to fight the Batusi, but they were
+too strong, and he turned.
+
+_1st March, 1870._--Visited my Arab friends in their camp for the first
+time to-day. This is Kasessa's country, and the camp is situated between
+two strong rivulets, while Mamohela is the native name, Mount Bombola
+stands two miles from it north, and Mount Bolunkela is north-east the
+same distance. Wood, water, and grass, the requisites of a camp abound,
+and the Manyuema bring large supplies of food every day; forty large
+baskets of maize for a goat; fowls and bananas and nyumbo very cheap.
+
+_25th March, 1870._--Iron bracelets are the common medium of exchange,
+and coarse beads and cowries: for a copper bracelet three large fowls
+are given, and three and a half baskets of maize; one basket three feet
+high is a woman's load, and they are very strong.
+
+The Wachiogon� are a scattered tribe among the Maarabo or Suaheli, but
+they retain their distinct identity as a people.
+
+The Mamba fish has breasts with milk, and utters a cry; its flesh is
+very white, it is not the crocodile which goes by the same name, but is
+probably the Dugong or Peixe Mulher of the Portuguese(?). Full-grown
+leeches come on the surface in this wet country.
+
+Some of Katomba's men returned with forty-three tusks. An animal with
+short horns and of a reddish colour is in the north; it is not known to
+the Arabs(?).
+
+Joseph, an Arab from Oman, says that the Simoom is worse in Sham
+(Yemen?) than in Oman: it blows for three or four hours. Butter eaten
+largely is the remedy against its ill effects, and this is also smeared
+on the body: in Oman a wetted cloth is put over the head, body, and
+legs, while this wind blows.
+
+_1st May, 1870._--An elephant was killed which had three tusks; all of
+good size.[7]
+
+Rains continued; and mud and mire from the clayey soil of Manyuema were
+too awful to be attempted.
+
+_24th May, 1870._--I sent to Bambarr� for the cloth and beads I left
+there. A party of Thani's people came south and said that they had
+killed forty Manyuema, and lost four of theirown number; nine villages
+were burned, and all this about a single string of beads which a man
+tried to steal!
+
+_June, 1870._--Mohamad bin Nassur and Akila's men brought 116 tusks from
+the north, where the people are said to be all good and obliging:
+Akila's chief man had a large deep ulcer on the foot from the mud. When
+we had the people here, Kassessa gave ten goats and one tusk to hire
+them to avenge a feud in which his elder brother was killed, and they
+went; the spoils secured were 31 captives, 60 goats, and about 40
+Manyuema killed: one slave of the attacking party was killed, and two
+badly wounded. Thani's man, Yahood, who was leader in the other case of
+40 killed, boasted before me of the deed. I said, "You were sent here
+not to murder, but to trade;" he replied, "We are sent to murder." Bin
+Nassur said, "The English are always killing people;" I replied, "Yes,
+but only slavers who do the deeds that were done yesterday."
+
+Various other tribes sent large presents to the Arabs to avert assaults,
+and tusks too were offered.
+
+The rains had continued into June, and fifty-eight inches fell.
+
+_26th June, 1870._--Now my people failed me; so, with only three
+attendants, Susi, Chuma, and Gardner, I started off to the north-west
+for the Lualaba. The numbers of running rivulets to be crossed were
+surprising, and at each, for some forty yards, the path had been worked
+by the feet of passengers into adhesive mud: we crossed fourteen in one
+day--some thigh deep; most of them run into the Liya, which we crossed,
+and it flows to the Lualaba. We passed through many villages, for the
+paths all lead through human dwellings. Many people presented bananas,
+and seemed surprised when I made a small return gift; one man ran after
+me with a sugar-cane; I paid for lodgings too: here the Arabs never do.
+
+_28th June, 1870._--The driver ants were in millions in some part of
+the way; on this side of the continent they seem less fierce than I have
+found them in the west.
+
+_29th June, 1870._--At one village musicians with calabashes, having
+holes in them, flute-fashion, tried to please me by their vigorous
+acting, and by beating drums in time.
+
+_30th June, 1870._--We passed through the nine villages burned for a
+single string of beads, and slept in the village of Malola.
+
+_July, 1870._--While I was sleeping quietly here, some trading Arabs
+camped at Nasangwa's, and at dead of night one was pinned to the earth
+by a spear; no doubt this was in revenge for relations slain in the
+forty mentioned: the survivors now wished to run a muck in all
+directions against the Manyuema.
+
+When I came up I proposed to ask the chief if he knew the assassin, and
+he replied that he was not sure of him, for he could only conjecture who
+it was; but death to all Manyuemas glared from the eyes of half-castes
+and slaves. Fortunately, before this affair was settled in their way, I
+met Mohamad Bogharib coming back from Kasonga's, and he joined in
+enforcing peace: the traders went off, but let my three people know,
+what I knew long before, that they hated having a spy in me on their
+deeds. I told some of them who were civil tongued that ivory obtained by
+bloodshed was unclean evil--"unlucky" as they say: my advice to them
+was, "Don't shed human blood, my friends; it has guilt not to be wiped
+off by water." Off they went; and afterwards the bloodthirsty party got
+only one tusk and a half, while another party, which avoided shooting
+men, got fifty-four tusks!
+
+From Mohamad's people I learned that the Lualaba was not in the N.W.
+course I had pursued, for in fact it flows W.S.W. in another great bend,
+and they had gone far to the north without seeing it, but the country
+was exceedingly difficult from forest and water. As I had already seen,
+trees fallen across the path formed a breast-high wall which had to be
+climbed over: flooded rivers, breast and neck deep, had to be crossed,
+the mud was awful, and nothing but villages eight or ten miles apart.
+
+In the clearances around these villages alone could the sun be seen. For
+the first time in my life my feet failed me, and now having but three
+attendants it would have been unwise to go further in that direction.
+Instead of healing quietly as heretofore, when torn by hard travel,
+irritable-eating ulcers fastened on both feet; and I limped back to
+Bambarr� on 22nd.
+
+The accounts of Ramad�n (who was desired by me to take notes as he went
+in the forest) were discouraging, and made me glad I did not go. At one
+part, where the tortuous river was flooded, they were five hours in the
+water, and a man in a small canoe went before them sounding for places
+not too deep for them, breast and chin deep, and Hassani fell and hurt
+himself sorely in a hole. The people have goats and sheep, and love them
+as they do children.
+
+[Fairly baffled by the difficulties in his way, and sorely troubled by
+the demoralised state of his men, who appear not to have been proof
+against the contaminating presence of the Arabs, the Doctor turns back
+at this point.]
+
+_6th July, 1870._--Back to Mamohela, and welcomed by the Arabs, who all
+approved of my turning back. Katomba presented abundant provisions for
+all the way to Bambarr�. Before we reached this, Mohamad made a forced
+march, and Moene-mokaia's people came out drunk: the Arabs assaulted
+them, and they ran off.
+
+_23rd July, 1870._--The sores on my feet now laid me up as
+irritable-eating ulcers. If the foot were put to the ground, a discharge
+of bloody ichor flowed, and the same discharge happened every night with
+considerable pain, that prevented sleep: the wailing of the slaves
+tortured with these sores is one of the night sounds of a slave-camp:
+they eat through everything--muscle, tendon, and bone, and often lame
+permanently if they do not kill the poor things. Medicines have very
+little effect on such wounds: their periodicity seems to say that they
+are allied to fever. The Arabs make a salve of bees'-wax and sulphate of
+copper, and this applied hot, and held on by a bandage affords support,
+but the necessity of letting the ichor escape renders it a painful
+remedy: I had three ulcers, and no medicine. The native plan of support
+by means of a stiff leaf or bit of calabash was too irritating, and so
+they continued to eat in and enlarge in spite of everything: the
+vicinity was hot, and the pain increased with the size of the wound.
+
+_2nd August, 1870._--An eclipse at midnight: the Moslems called loudly
+on Moses. Very cold.
+
+On _17th August, 1870,_ Monanyemb�, the chief who was punished by
+Mohamad Bogharib, lately came bringing two goats; one he gave to
+Mohamad, the other to Moen�kuss' son, acknowledging that he had killed
+his elder brother: he had killed eleven persons over at Linamo in our
+absence, in addition to those killed in villages on our S.E. when we
+were away. It transpired that Kandahara, brother of old Moen�kuss, whose
+village is near this, killed three women and a child, and that a trading
+man came over from Kasangangay�, and was murdered too, for no reason but
+to eat his body. Mohamad ordered old Kandahara to bring ten goats and
+take them over to Kasangangay� to pay for the murdered man. When they
+tell of each other's deeds they disclose a horrid state of bloodthirsty
+callousness. The people over a hill N.N.E. of this killed a person out
+hoeing; if a cultivator is alone, he is almost sure of being slain. Some
+said that people in the vicinity, or hy�nas, stole the buried dead; but
+Posho's wife died, and in Wanyamesi fashion was thrown out of camp
+unburied. Mohamad threatened an attack if Manyuema did not cease
+exhuming the dead; it was effectual, neither men nor hy�nas touched
+her, though exposed now for seven days.
+
+The head of Moen�kuss is said to be preserved in a pot in his house, and
+all public matters are gravely communicated to it, as if his spirit
+dwelt therein: his body was eaten, the flesh was removed from the head
+and eaten too; his father's head is said to be kept also: the foregoing
+refers to Bambarr� alone. In other districts graves show that sepulture
+is customary, but here no grave appears: some admit the existence of the
+practice here; others deny it. In the Metamba country adjacent to the
+Lualaba, a quarrel with a wife often ends in the husband killing her and
+eating her heart, mixed up in a huge mess of goat's flesh: this has the
+charm character. Fingers are taken as charms in other parts, but in
+Bambarr� alone is the depraved taste the motive for cannibalism.
+
+_Bambarr�, 18th August, 1870._--I learn from Josut and Moenepemb�, who
+have been to Kata�ga and beyond, that there is a Lake N.N.W. of the
+copper mines, and twelve days distant; it is called Chibungo, and is
+said to be large. Seven days west of Kata�ga flows another Lualaba,
+the dividing line between Rua and Lunda or Londa; it is very large,
+and as the Lufira flows into Chibungo, it is probable that the Lualaba
+West and the Lufira form the Lake. Lualaba West and Lufira rise by
+fountains south of Kata�ga, three or four days off. Luambai and Lunga
+fountains are only about ten miles distant from Lualaba West and
+Lufira fountains: a mound rises between them, the most remarkable in
+Africa. Were this spot in Armenia it would serve exactly the
+description of the garden of Eden in Genesis, with its four rivers,
+the Gihon, Pison, Hiddekel, and Euphrates; as it is, it possibly gave
+occasion to the story told to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva in
+the City of Sa�s, about two hills with conical tops, Crophi and Mophi.
+"Midway between them," said he, "are the fountains of the Nile,
+fountains which it is impossible to fathom: half the water runs
+northward into Egypt; half to the south towards Ethiopia."
+
+Four fountains rising so near to each other would readily be supposed to
+have one source, and half the water flowing into the Nile and the other
+half to the Zambesi, required but little imagination to originate,
+seeing the actual visitor would not feel bound to say how the division
+was effected. He could only know the fact of waters rising at one spot,
+and separating to flow north and south. The conical tops to the mound
+look like invention, as also do the names.
+
+A slave, bought on Lualaba East, came from Lualaba West in about twelve
+days: these two Lualabas may form the loop depicted by Ptolemy, and
+upper and lower Tanganyika be a third arm of the Nile.
+
+Patience is all I can exercise: these irritable ulcers hedge me in now,
+as did my attendants in June, but all will be for the best, for it is in
+Providence and not in me.
+
+The watershed is between 700 and 800 miles long from west to east, or
+say from 22� or 23� to 34� or 35� East longitude. Parts of it are
+enormous sponges; in other parts innumerable rills unite into rivulets,
+which again form rivers--Lufira, for instance, has nine rivulets, and
+Lekulw� other nine. The convex surface of the rose of a garden
+watering-can is a tolerably apt similitude, as the rills do not spring
+off the face of it, and it is 700 miles across the circle; but in the
+numbers of rills coming out at different heights on the slope, there is
+a faint resemblance, and I can at present think of no other example.
+
+I am a little thankful to old Nile for so hiding his head that all
+"theoretical discoverers" are left out in the cold. With all real
+explorers I have a hearty sympathy, and I have some regret at being
+obliged, in a manner compelled, to speak somewhat disparagingly of the
+opinions formed by my predecessors. The work of Speke and Grant is part
+of the history of this region, and since the discovery of the sources
+of the Nile was asserted so positively, it seems necessary to explain,
+not offensively, I hope, wherein their mistake lay, in making a somewhat
+similar claim. My opinions may yet be shown to be mistaken too, but at
+present I cannot conceive how. When Speke discovered Victoria Nyanza in
+1858, he at once concluded that therein lay the sources of the Nile. His
+work after that was simply following a foregone conclusion, and as soon
+as he and Grant looked towards the Victoria Nyanza, they turned their
+backs on the Nile fountains; so every step of their splendid achievement
+of following the river down took them further and further away from the
+Caput Nili. When it was perceived that the little river that leaves the
+Nyanza, though they called it the White Nile, would not account for that
+great river, they might have gone west and found headwaters (as the
+Lualaba) to which it can bear no comparison. Taking their White Nile at
+80 or 90 yards, or say 100 yards broad, the Lualaba, far south of the
+latitude of its point of departure, shows an average breadth of from
+4000 to 6000 yards, and always deep.
+
+Considering that more than sixteen hundred years have elapsed since
+Ptolemy put down the results of early explorers, and emperors, kings,
+philosophers--all the great men of antiquity in short longed to know the
+fountains whence flowed the famous river, and longed in
+vain--exploration does not seem to have been very becoming to the other
+sex either. Madame Tinn� came further up the river than the centurions
+sent by Nero C�sar, and showed such indomitable pluck as to reflect
+honour on her race. I know nothing about her save what has appeared in
+the public papers, but taking her exploration along with what was done
+by Mrs. Baker, no long time could have elapsed before the laurels for
+the modern re-discovery of the sources of the Nile should have been
+plucked by the ladies. In 1841 the Egyptian Expedition under D'Arnauld
+and Sabatier reached lat. 4� 42': this was a great advance into the
+interior as compared with Linant in 1827, 13� 30' N., and even on the
+explorations of Jomard(?); but it turned when nearly a thousand miles
+from the sources.
+
+[The subjoined account of the soko--which is in all probability an
+entirely new species of chimpanzee, and _not_ the gorilla, is
+exceedingly interesting, and no doubt Livingstone had plenty of stories
+from which to select. Neither Susi nor Chuma can identify the soko of
+Manyuema with the gorilla, as we have it stuffed in the British Museum.
+They think, however, that the soko is quite as large and as strong as
+the gorilla, judging by the specimens shown to them, although they could
+have decided with greater certainty, if the natives had not invariably
+brought in the dead sokos disembowelled; as they point out, and as we
+imagine from Dr. Livingstone's description, the carcase would then
+appear much less bulky. Livingstone gives an animated sketch of a soko
+hunt.]
+
+_24th August, 1870._--Four gorillas or sokos were killed yesterday: an
+extensive grass-burning forced them out of their usual haunt, and coming
+on the plain they were speared. They often go erect, but place the hand
+on the head, as if to steady the body. When seen thus, the soko is an
+ungainly beast. The most sentimental young lady would not call him a
+"dear," but a bandy-legged, pot-bellied, low-looking villain, without a
+particle of the gentleman in him. Other animals, especially the
+antelopes, are graceful, and it is pleasant to see them, either at rest
+or in motion: the natives also are well made, lithe and comely to
+behold, but the soko, if large, would do well to stand for a picture of
+the Devil.
+
+He takes away my appetite by his disgusting bestiality of appearance.
+His light-yellow face shows off his ugly whiskers, and faint apology for
+a beard; the forehead villainously low, with high ears, is well in the
+back-ground of the great dog-mouth; the teeth are slightly human, but
+the canines show the beast by their large development. The hands, or
+rather the fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh of the feet
+is yellow, and the eagerness with which the Manyuema devour it leaves
+the impression that eating sokos was the first stage by which they
+arrived at being cannibals; they say the flesh is delicious. The soko is
+represented by some to be extremely knowing, successfully stalking men
+and women while at their work, kidnapping children, and running up trees
+with them--he seems to be amused by the sight of the young native in his
+arms, but comes down when tempted by a bunch of bananas, and as he lifts
+that, drops the child: the young soko in such a case would cling closely
+to the armpit of the elder. One man was cutting out honey from a tree,
+and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared and caught him, then let him
+go: another man was hunting, and missed in his attempt to stab a soko:
+it seized the spear and broke it, then grappled with the man, who called
+to his companions, "Soko has caught me," the soko bit off the ends of
+his fingers and escaped unharmed. Both men are now alive at Bambarr�.
+
+The soko is so cunning, and has such sharp eyes, that no one can stalk
+him in front without being seen, hence, when shot, it is always in the
+back; when surrounded by men and nets, he is generally speared in the
+back too, otherwise he is not a very formidable beast: he is nothing, as
+compared in power of damaging his assailant, to a leopard or lion, but
+is more like a man unarmed, for it does not occur to him to use his
+canine teeth, which are long and formidable. Numbers of them come down
+in the forest, within a hundred yards of our camp, and would be unknown
+but for giving tongue like fox-hounds: this is their nearest approach to
+speech. A man hoeing was stalked by a soko, and seized; he roared out,
+but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him as if he had done it in
+play. A child caught up by a soko is often abused by being pinched and
+scratched, and let fall.
+
+The soko kills the leopard occasionally, by seizing both paws, and
+biting them so as to disable them, he then goes up a tree, groans over
+his wounds, and sometimes recovers, while the leopard dies: at other
+times, both soko and leopard die. The lion kills him at once, and
+sometimes tears his limbs off, but does not eat him. The soko eats no
+flesh--small bananas are his dainties, but not maize. His food consists
+of wild fruits, which abound: one, Staf�n�, or Manyuema Mamwa, is like
+large sweet sop but indifferent in taste and flesh. The soko brings
+forth at times twins. A very large soko was seen by Mohamad's hunters
+sitting picking his nails; they tried to stalk him, but he vanished.
+Some Manyuema think that their buried dead rise as sokos, and one was
+killed with holes in his ears, as if he had been a man. He is very
+strong and fears guns but not spears: he never catches women.
+
+Sokos collect together, and make a drumming noise, some say with hollow
+trees, then burst forth into loud yells which are well imitated by the
+natives' embryotic music. If a man has no spear the soko goes away
+satisfied, but if wounded he seizes the wrist, lops off the fingers, and
+spits them out, slaps the cheeks of his victim, and bites without
+breaking the skin: he draws out a spear (but never uses it), and takes
+some leaves and stuffs them into his wound to staunch the blood; he does
+not wish an encounter with an armed man. He sees women do him no harm,
+and never molests them; a man without a spear is nearly safe from him.
+They beat hollow trees as drums with hands, and then scream as music to
+it; when men hear them, they go to the sokos; but sokos never go to men
+with hostility. Manyuema say, "Soko is a man, and nothing bad in him."
+
+They live in communities of about ten, each having his own female; an
+intruder from another camp is beaten off with their fists and loud
+yells. If one tries to seize the female of another, he is caught on the
+ground, and all unite in boxing and biting the offender. A male often
+carries a child, especially if they are passing from one patch of forest
+to another over a grassy space; he then gives it to the mother.
+
+I now spoke with my friend Mohamad, and he offered to go with me to see
+Lualaba from Luamo, but I explained that merely to see and measure its
+depth would not do, I must see whither it went. This would require a
+number of his people in lieu of my deserters, and to take them away from
+his ivory trade, which at present is like gold digging, I must make
+amends, and I offered him 2000 rupees, and a gun worth 700 rupees, R.
+2700 in all, or 270_l._ He agreed, and should he enable me to finish up
+my work in one trip down Lualaba, and round to Lualaba West, it would be
+a great favour.
+
+[How severely he felt the effects of the terrible illnesses of the last
+two years may be imagined by some few words here, and it must ever be
+regretted that the conviction which he speaks of was not acted up to.]
+
+The severe pneumonia in Marunga, the choleraic complaint in Manyuema,
+and now irritable ulcers warn me to retire while life lasts. Mohamad's
+people went north, and east, and west, from Kasonga's: sixteen marches
+north, ten ditto west, and four ditto E. and S.E. The average march was
+6-1/2 hours, say 12' about 200' N. and W., lat. of Kasongo, say 4�
+south. They may have reached 1�, 2� S. They were now in the Bal�gg�
+country, and turned. It was all dense forest, they never saw the sun
+except when at a village, and then the villages were too far apart. The
+people were very fond of sheep, which they call ngomb�, or ox, and tusks
+are never used. They went off to where an elephant had formerly been
+killed, and brought the tusks rotted and eaten or gnawed by "D�r�" (?)--a
+Rodent, probably the _Aulocaudatus Swindermanus_. Three large rivers
+were crossed, breast and chin deep; in one they were five hours, and a
+man in a small canoe went ahead sounding for water capable of being
+waded. Much water and mud in the forest. This report makes me thankful I
+did not go, for I should have seen nothing, and been worn out by fatigue
+and mud. They tell me that the River Metunda had black water, and took
+two hours to cross it, breast deep. They crossed about forty smaller
+rivers over the River Mohunga, breast deep. The River of Mbit� also is
+large. All along Lualaba and Metumb� the sheep have hairy dew-laps, no
+wool, Tartar breed (?), small thin tails.
+
+A broad belt of meadow-land, with no trees, lies along Lualaba, beyond
+that it is all dense forest, and trees so large, that one lying across
+the path is breast high: clearances exist only around the villages. The
+people are very expert smiths and weavers of the "Lamba," and make fine
+large spears, knives, and needles. Market-places, called "Tokos," are
+numerous all along Lualaba; to these the Barua of the other bank come
+daily in large canoes, bringing grass-cloth, salt, flour, cassava,
+fowls, goats, pigs, and slaves. The women are beautiful, with straight
+noses, and well-clothed; when the men of the districts are at war, the
+women take their goods to market as if at peace and are never molested:
+all are very keen traders, buying one thing with another, and changing
+back again, and any profit made is one of the enjoyments of life.
+
+I knew that my deserters hoped to be fed by Mohamad Bogharib when we
+left the camp at Mamohela, but he told them that he would not have them;
+this took them aback, but they went and lifted his ivory for him, and
+when a parley was thus brought about, talked him over, saying that they
+would go to me, and do all I desired: they never came, but, as no one
+else would take them, I gave them three loads to go to Bambarr�; there
+they told Mohamad that I would not give them beads, and they did not
+like to steal; they were now trying to get his food by lies. I invited
+them three times to come and take beads, but having supplies of food
+from the camp women, they hoped to get the upper hand with me, and take
+what they liked by refusing to carry or work. Mohamad spoke long to
+them, but speaking mildly makes them imagine that the spokesman is
+afraid of them. They kept away from my work and would fain join
+Mohamad's, but he won't have them. I gave beads to all but the
+ringleaders. Their conduct looks as if a quarrel had taken place between
+us, but no such excuse have they.
+
+I am powerless, as they have left me, and think that they may do as they
+like, and the "Manyuema are bad" is the song. Their badness consists in
+being dreadfully afraid of guns, and the Arabs can do just as they like
+with them and their goods. If spears alone were used the Manyuema would
+be considered brave, for they fear no one, though he has many spears.
+They tell us truly "that were it not for our guns not one of us would
+return to our own country." Moene-mokaia killed two Arab agents, and took
+their guns; this success led to their asserting, in answer to the
+remonstrances of the women, "We shall take their goats, guns, and women
+from them." The chief, in reporting the matter to Moenemger(?) at Luamo,
+said, "The Englishman told my people to go away as he did not like
+fighting, but my men were filled with 'malofu,' or palm-toddy, and
+refused to their own hurt." Elsewhere they made regular preparation to
+have a fight with Dugumb�'s people, just to see who was strongest--they
+with their spears and wooden shields, and the Arabs with what in
+derision they called tobacco-pipes (guns). They killed eight or nine
+Arabs.
+
+No traders seem ever to have come in before this. Banna brought copper
+and skins for tusks, and the Babisa and Baguha coarse beads. The Bavira
+are now enraged at seeing Ujijians pass into their ivory field, and no
+wonder; they took the tusks which cost them a few strings of beads, and
+received weight for weight in beads, thick brass wire, and loads of
+calico.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] Susi and Chuma say that the third tusk grew out from the base of
+the trunk, that is, midway between the other two.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of
+    comfort." Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird." The disease
+    "Safura."
+
+Bambarr�, _25th August, 1870._--One of my waking dreams is that the
+legendary tales about Moses coming up into Inner Ethiopia with Merr his
+foster-mother, and founding a city which he called in her honour
+"Meroe," may have a substratum of fact. He was evidently a man of
+transcendent genius, and we learn from the speech of St. Stephen that
+"he was learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians, and was mighty in
+words and in deeds." His deeds must have been well known in Egypt, for
+"he supposed that his brethren would have understood how that God by His
+hand would deliver them, but they understood not." His supposition could
+not be founded on his success in smiting a single Egyptian; he was too
+great a man to be elated by a single act of prowess, but his success on
+a large scale in Ethiopia afforded reasonable grounds for believing that
+his brethren would be proud of their countryman, and disposed to follow
+his leadership, but they were slaves. The notice taken of the matter by
+Pharaoh showed that he was eyed by the great as a dangerous, if not
+powerful, man. He "dwelt" in Midian for some time before his gallant
+bearing towards the shepherds by the well, commended him to the priest
+or prince of the country. An uninteresting wife, and the want of
+intercourse with kindred spirits during the long forty years' solitude
+of a herdsman's life, seem to have acted injuriously on his spirits, and
+it was not till he had with Aaron struck terror into the Egyptian mind,
+that the "man Moses" again became "very great in the eyes of Pharaoh and
+his servants." The Ethiopian woman whom he married could scarcely be the
+daughter of Renel or Jethro, for Midian was descended from Keturah,
+Abraham's concubine, and they were never considered Cushite or
+Ethiopian. If he left his wife in Egypt she would now be some fifty or
+sixty years old, and all the more likely to be despised by the proud
+prophetess Miriam as a daughter of Ham.
+
+I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, and if anything
+confirmatory of sacred history does remain, I pray to be guided
+thereunto. If the sacred chronology would thereby be confirmed, I would
+not grudge the toil and hardships, hunger and pain, I have endured--the
+irritable ulcers would only be discipline.
+
+Above the fine yellow clay schist of Manyuema the banks of Tanganyika
+reveal 50 feet of shingle mixed with red earth; above this at some parts
+great boulders lie; after this 60 feet of fine clay schist, then 5
+strata of gravel underneath, with a foot stratum of schist between them.
+The first seam of gravel is about 2 feet, the second 4 feet, and the
+lowest of all about 30 feet thick. The fine schist was formed in still
+water, but the shingle must have been produced in stormy troubled seas
+if not carried hither and thither by ice and at different epochs.
+
+This Manyuema country is unhealthy, not so much from fever as from
+debility of the whole system, induced by damp, cold, and indigestion:
+this general weakness is ascribed by some to maize being the common
+food, it shows itself in weakness of bowels and choleraic purging. This
+may be owing to bad water, of which there is no scarcity, but it is so
+impregnated with dead vegetable matter as to have the colour of tea.
+Irritable ulcers fasten on any part abraded by accident, and it seems to
+be a spreading fungus, for the matter settling on any part near becomes
+a fresh centre of propagation. The vicinity of the ulcer is very tender,
+and it eats in frightfully if not allowed rest. Many slaves die of it,
+and its periodical discharges of bloody ichor makes me suspect it to be
+a development of fever. I have found lunar caustic useful: a plaister of
+wax, and a little finely-ground sulphate of copper is used by the Arabs,
+and so is cocoa-nut oil and butter. These ulcers are excessively
+intractable, there is no healing them before they eat into the bone,
+especially on the shins.
+
+Rheumatism is also common, and it cuts the natives off. The traders fear
+these diseases, and come to a stand if attacked, in order to use rest in
+the cure. "Taema," or Tape-worm, is frequently met with, and no remedy
+is known among the Arabs and natives for it.
+
+[Searching in his closely-written pocket-books we find many little
+mementoes of his travels; such, for instance, as two or three tsetse
+flies pressed between the leaves of one book; some bees, some leaves and
+moths in another, but, hidden away in the pocket of the note-book which
+Livingstone used during the longest and most painful illness he ever
+underwent lies a small scrap of printed paper which tells a tale in its
+own simple way. On one side there is written in his well-known hand:--]
+
+    "Turn over and see a drop of comfort found when suffering
+    from irritable eating ulcers on the feet in Manyuema,
+    August, 1870."
+
+[On the reverse we see that the scrap was evidently snipped off a list
+of books advertised at the end of some volume which, with the tea and
+other things sent to Ujiji, had reached him before setting out on this
+perilous journey. The "drop of comfort" is as follows:--]
+
+    "A NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESI AND ITS
+    TRIBUTARIES,
+
+    "And the discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa.
+
+    "_Fifth Thousand. With Map and Illustrations_. 8vo. 21s.
+
+    "'Few achievements in our day have made a greater impression
+    than that of the adventurous missionary who unaided crossed the
+    Continent of Equatorial Africa. His unassuming simplicity, his
+    varied intelligence, his indomitable pluck, his steady religious
+    purpose, form a combination of qualities rarely found in one
+    man. By common consent, Dr. Livingstone has come to be regarded
+    as one of the most remarkable travellers of his own or of any
+    other age.'--_British Quarterly Review_."
+
+[The kindly pen of the reviewer served a good turn when there was "no
+medicine" but the following:--]
+
+I was at last advised to try malachite, rubbed down with water on a
+stone, and applied with a feather: this is the only thing that has any
+beneficial effect.
+
+_9th September, 1870._--A Londa slave stole ten goats from the Manyuema;
+he was bound, but broke loose, and killed two goats yesterday. He was
+given to the Manyuema. The Balonda evidently sold their criminals only.
+He was shorn of his ears and would have been killed, but Monangoi said:
+"Don't let the blood of a freeman touch our soil."
+
+_26th September, 1870._--I am able now to report the ulcers healing. For
+eighty days I have been completely laid up by them, and it will be long
+ere the lost substance will be replaced. They kill many slaves; and an
+epidemic came to us which carried off thirty in our small camp.[8]
+
+[We come to a very important note under the next date. It may be
+necessary to remind the reader that when Livingstone left the
+neighbourhood of Lake Nyassa and bent his steps northwards, he believed
+that the "Chambez�" River, which the natives reported to be ahead of
+him, was in reality the Zambezi, for he held in his hand a map
+manufactured at home, and so conveniently manipulated as to clear up a
+great difficulty by simply inserting "New Zambezi" in the place of the
+Chambez�. As we now see, Livingstone handed back this addled
+geographical egg to its progenitor, who, we regret to say, has not only
+smashed it in wrath, but has treated us to so much of its savour in a
+pamphlet written against the deceased explorer, that few will care to
+turn over its leaves.
+
+However, the African traveller has a warning held up before him which
+may be briefly summed up in a caution to be on the look out for constant
+repetitions in one form or another of the same name. Endless confusion
+has arisen from Nyassas and Nyanzas, from Chiroas and Kiroas and
+Shirwas, to say nothing of Zambesis and Ohambez�s. The natives are just
+as prone to perpetuate Zambezi or Lufira in Africa as we are to multiply
+our Avons and Ouses in England.]
+
+_4th October, 1870._--A trading party from Ujiji reports an epidemic
+raging between the coast and Ujiji, and very fatal. Syde bin Habib and
+Dugumb� are coming, and they have letters and perhaps people for me, so
+I remain, though the irritable ulcers are well-nigh healed. I fear that
+my packet for the coast may have fared badly, for the Lewal� has kept
+Musa Kamaal by him, so that no evidence against himself or the dishonest
+man Musa bin Saloom should be given: my box and guns, with despatches, I
+fear will never be sent. Zahor, to whom I gave calico to pay carriers,
+has been sent off to Lobemba.
+
+Mohamad sowed rice yesterday, and has to send his people (who were
+unsuccessful among the Bal�gga) away to the Metamb�, where they got
+ivory before.
+
+I cannot understand very well what a "Theoretical Discoverer" is. If
+anyone got up and declared in a public meeting that he was the
+theoretical discoverer of the philosopher's stone, or of perpetual
+motion for watches, should we not mark him as a little wrong in the
+head? So of the Nile sources. The Portuguese crossed the Chambez� some
+seventy years before I did, but to them it was a branch of the Zambezi
+and nothing more. Cooley put it down as the New Zambesi, and made it run
+backwards, up-hill, between 3000 and 4000 feet! I was misled by the
+similarity of names and a map, to think it the eastern branch of the
+Zambezi. I was told that it formed a large water in the south-west, this
+I readily believed to be the Liambai, in the Barots� Valley, and it took
+me eighteen months of toil to come back again to the Chambez� in Lake
+Bangweolo, and work out the error into which I was led--twenty-two
+months elapsed ere I got back to the point whence I set out to explore
+Chambez�, Bangweolo, Luapula, Moero, and Lualaba. I spent two full years
+at this work, and the Chief Casembe was the first to throw light on the
+subject by saying, "It is the same water here as in the Chambez�, the
+same in Moero and Lualaba, and one piece of water is just like another.
+Will you draw out calico from it that you wish to see it? As your chief
+desired you to see Bangweolo, go to it, and if in going north you see a
+travelling party, join it; if not, come back to me, and I will send you
+safely by my path along Moero."
+
+The central Lualaba I would fain call the Lake River Webb; the western,
+the Lake River Young. The Lufira and Lualaba West form a Lake, the
+native name of which, "Chibungo," must give way to Lake Lincoln. I wish
+to name the fountain of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, Palmerston
+Fountain, and adding that of Sir Bartle Frere to the fountain of Lufira,
+three names of men who have done more to abolish slavery and the
+slave-trade than any of their contemporaries.
+
+[Through the courtesy of the Earl of Derby we are able to insert a
+paragraph here which occurs in a despatch written to Her Majesty's
+Foreign Office by Dr. Livingstone a few weeks before his death. He
+treats more fully in it upon the different names that he gave to the
+most important rivers and lakes which he discovered, and we see how he
+cherished to the last the fond memory of old well-tried friendships, and
+the great examples of men like President Lincoln and Lord Palmerston.]
+
+"I have tried to honour the name of the good Lord Palmerston, in fond
+remembrance of his long and unwearied labour for the abolition of the
+Slave Trade; and I venture to place the name of the good and noble
+Lincoln on the Lake, in gratitude to him who gave freedom to 4,000,000
+of slaves. These two great men are no longer among us; but it pleases
+me, here in the wilds, to place, as it were, my poor little garland of
+love on their tombs. Sir Bartle Frere having accomplished the grand work
+of abolishing slavery in Scindiah, Upper India, deserves the gratitude
+of every lover of human kind.
+
+"Private friendship guided me in the selection of other names where
+distinctive epithets were urgently needed. 'Paraffin' Young, one of my
+teachers in chemistry, raised himself to be a merchant prince by his
+science and art, and has shed pure white light in many lowly cottages,
+and in some rich palaces. Leaving him and chemistry, I went away to try
+and bless others. I, too, have shed light of another kind, and am fain
+to believe that I have performed a small part in the grand revolution
+which our Maker has been for ages carrying on, by multitudes of
+conscious, and many unconscious agents, all over the world. Young's
+friendship never faltered.
+
+"Oswell and Webb were fellow-travellers, and mighty hunters. Too much
+engrossed myself with mission-work to hunt, except for the children's
+larder, when going to visit distant tribes, I relished the sight of fair
+stand-up fights by my friends with the large denizens of the forest, and
+admired the true Nimrod class for their great courage, truthfulness, and
+honour. Being a warm lover of natural history, the entire butcher tribe,
+bent only on making 'a bag,' without regard to animal suffering, have
+not a single kindly word from me. An Ambonda man, named Mokantju, told
+Oswell and me in 1851 that the Liambai and Kafu� rose as one fountain
+and then separated, but after a long course came together again in the
+Zambezi above Zumbo."
+
+_8th October, 1870._--Mbarawa and party came yesterday from Katomba at
+Mamohela. He reports that Jangeong� (?) with Moeneokela's men had been
+killing people of the Metamba or forest, and four of his people were
+slain. He intended fighting, hence his desire to get rid of me when I
+went north: he got one and a half tusks, but little ivory, but Katomba's
+party got fifty tusks; Abdullah had got two tusks, and had also been
+fighting, and Katomba had sent a fighting party down to Lolind�; plunder
+and murder is Ujijian trading. Mbarawa got his ivory on the Lindi, or as
+he says, "Urindi," which has black water, and is very large: an arrow
+could not be shot across its stream, 400 or 500 yards wide, it had to be
+crossed by canoes, and goes into Lualaba. It is curious that all think
+it necessary to say to me, "The Manyuema are bad, very bad;" the Bal�gga
+will be let alone, because they can fight, and we shall hear nothing of
+their badness.
+
+_10th October, 1870._--I came out of my hut to-day, after being confined
+to it since the 22nd July, or eighty days, by irritable ulcers on the
+feet. The last twenty days I suffered from fever, which reduced my
+strength, taking away my voice, and purging me. My appetite was good,
+but the third mouthful of any food caused nausea and vomiting--purging
+took place and profuse sweating; it was choleraic, and how many Manyuema
+died of it we could not ascertain. While this epidemic raged here, we
+heard of cholera terribly severe on the way to the coast. I am thankful
+to feel myself well.
+
+Only one ulcer is open, the size of a split pea: malachite was the
+remedy most useful, but the beginning of the rains may have helped the
+cure, as it does to others; copper rubbed down is used when malachite
+cannot be had. We expect Syde bin Habib soon: he will take to the river,
+and I hope so shall I. The native traders reached people who had horns
+of oxen, got from the left bank of the Lualaba. Katomba's people got
+most ivory, namely, fifty tusks; the others only four. The Metamba or
+forest is of immense extent, and there is room for much ivory to be
+picked up at five or seven bracelets of copper per tusk, if the slaves
+sent will only be merciful. The nine villages destroyed, and 100 men
+killed, by Katomba's slaves at Nasangwa's, were all about a string of
+beads fastened to a powder horn, which a Manyuema man tried in vain to
+steal!
+
+Katomba gets twenty-five of the fifty tusks brought by his people. We
+expect letters, and perhaps men by Syde bin Habib. No news from the
+coast had come to Ujiji, save a rumour that some one was building a
+large house at Bagamoio, but whether French or English no one can say:
+possibly the erection of a huge establishment on the mainland may be a
+way of laboriously proving that it is more healthy than the island. It
+will take a long time to prove by stone and lime that the higher lands,
+200 miles inland, are better still, both for longevity and work.[9] I am
+in agony for news from home; all I feel sure of now is that my friends
+will all wish me to complete my task. I join in the wish now, as better
+than doing it in vain afterwards.
+
+The Manyuema hoeing is little better than scraping the soil, and cutting
+through the roots of grass and weeds, by a horizontal motion of the hoe
+or knife; they leave the roots of maize, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes,
+and dura, to find their way into the rich soft soil, and well they
+succeed, so there is no need for deep ploughing: the ground-nuts and
+cassava hold their own against grass for years, and bananas, if cleared
+of weeds, yield abundantly. Mohamad sowed rice just outside the camp
+without any advantage being secured by the vicinity of a rivulet, and it
+yielded forone measure of seed one hundred and twenty measures of
+increase. This season he plants along the rivulet called "Bond�," and on
+the damp soil.
+
+The rain-water does not percolate far, for the clay retains it about two
+feet beneath the surface: this is a cause of unhealthiness to man. Fowls
+and goats have been cut off this year in large numbers by an epidemic.
+
+The visits of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Manyuema to be a
+severe infliction, for the huts are appropriated, and no leave asked:
+firewood, pots, baskets, and food are used without scruple, and anything
+that pleases is taken away; usually the women flee into the forest, and
+return to find the whole place a litter of broken food. I tried to pay
+the owners of the huts in which I slept, but often in vain, for they hid
+in the forest, and feared to come near. It was common for old men to
+come forward to me with a present of bananas as I passed, uttering with
+trembling accents, "Bolongo, Bolongo!" ("Friendship, Friendship!"), and
+if I stopped to make a little return present, others ran for plantains
+or palm-toddy. The Arabs' men ate up what they demanded, without one
+word of thanks, and turned round to me and said, "They are bad, don't
+give them anything." "Why, what badness is there in giving food?" I
+replied. "Oh! they like you, but hate us." One man gave me an iron ring,
+and all seemed inclined to be friendly, yet they are undoubtedly
+bloodthirsty to other Manyuema, and kill each other.
+
+I am told that journeying inland the safe way to avoid tsetse in going
+to Mer�r�'s is to go to Mdong�, Makind�, Zungom�ro, Masapi, Irundu,
+Nyangor�, then turn north to the Nyannugams, and thence to Ny�mb�, and
+so on south to Mer�r�'s. A woman chief lies in the straight way to
+Mer�r�, but no cattle live in the land. Another insect lights on the
+animals, and when licked off bites the tongue, or breeds, and is fatal
+as well as tsetse: it is larger in size. Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Ali
+come to Ny�mb�, thence to Nsama's, cross Lualaba at Mpw�to's, follow
+left bank of that river till they cross the next Lualaba, and so into
+Lunda of Matiamvo. Much ivory may be obtained by this course, and it
+shows enterprise. Syde bin Habib and Dugumb� will open up the Lualaba
+this year, and I am hoping to enter the West Lualaba, or Young's River,
+and if possible go up to Katanga. The Lord be my guide and helper. I
+feel the want of medicine strongly, almost as much as the want of men.
+
+_16th October, 1870._--Moenemgoi, the chief, came to tell me that
+Monamyembo had sent five goats to Lohombo to get a charm to kill him.
+"Would the English and Kolokolo (Mohamad) allow him to be killed while
+they were here?" I said that it was a false report, but he believes it
+firmly: Monamyembo sent his son to assure us that he was slandered, but
+thus quarrels and bloodshed feuds arise!
+
+The great want of the Manyuema is national life, of this they have none:
+each headman is independent of every other. Of industry they have no
+lack, and the villagers are orderly towards each other, but they go no
+further. If a man of another district ventures among them, it is at his
+peril; he is not regarded with more favour as a Manyuema than one of a
+herd of buffaloes is by the rest: and he is almost sure to be killed.
+
+Moen�kuss had more wisdom than his countrymen: his eldest son went over
+to Monamyembo (one of his subjects) and was there murdered by five spear
+wounds. The old chief went and asked who had slain his son. All
+professed ignorance, whilst some suggested "perhaps the Bahombo did it,"
+so he went off to them, but they also denied it and laid it at the door
+of Monamdenda, from whom he got the same reply when he arrived at his
+place--no one knew, and so the old man died. This, though he was
+heartbroken, was called witchcraft by Monamyembo. Eleven people were
+murdered, and after this cruel man was punished he sent a goat with the
+confession that he had killed Moen�kuss' son. This son had some of the
+father's wisdom: the others he never could get to act like men of sense.
+
+_19th October, 1870._--Bambarr�. The ringleading deserters sent Chuma to
+say that they were going with the people of Mohamad (who left to-day),
+to the Metamba, but I said that I had nought to say to them. They would
+go now to the Metamba, whom, on deserting, they said they so much
+feared, and they think nothing of having left me to go with only three
+attendants, and get my feet torn to pieces in mud and sand. They
+probably meant to go back to the women at Mamohela, who fed them in the
+absence of their husbands. They were told by Mohamad that they must not
+follow his people, and he gave orders to bind them, and send them back
+if they did. They think that no punishment will reach them whatever they
+do: they are freemen, and need not work or do anything but beg.
+"English," they call themselves, and the Arabs fear them, though the
+eagerness with which they engaged in slave-hunting showed them to be
+genuine niggers.
+
+_20th October, 1870._--The first heavy rain of this season fell
+yesterday afternoon. It is observable that the permanent halt to which
+the Manyuema have come is not affected by the appearance of superior men
+among them: they are stationary, and improvement is unknown. Moen�kuss
+paid smiths to teach his sons, and they learned to work in copper and
+iron, but he never could get them to imitate his own generous and
+obliging deportment to others; he had to reprove them perpetually for
+mean shortsightedness, and when he died he virtually left no successor,
+for his sons are both narrowminded, mean, shortsighted creatures,
+without dignity or honour. All they can say of their forefathers is that
+they came from Lualaba up Luamo, then to Luelo, and thence here. The
+name seems to mean "forest people"--_Manyuema_.
+
+The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at Kanying�r�'s, and went
+N. and N.N.E. They found the country becoming more and more mountainous,
+till at last, approaching Morer�, it was perpetually up and down. They
+slept at a village on the top, and could send for water to the bottom
+only once, it took so much time to descend and ascend. The rivers all
+flowed into Kerer� or Lower Tanganyika. There is a hot fountain whose
+water could not be touched nor stones stood upon. The Bal�gga were very
+unfriendly, and collected in thousands. "We come to buy ivory," said
+Hassani, "and if there is none we go away." "Nay," shouted they, "you
+come to die here!" and then they shot with arrows; when musket-balls
+were returned they fled, and would not come to receive the captives.
+
+_25th October, 1870._--Bambarr�. In this journey I have endeavoured to
+follow with unswerving fidelity the line of duty. My course has been an
+even one, turning neither to the right hand nor to the left, though my
+route has been tortuous enough. All the hardship, hunger, and toil were
+met with the full conviction that I was right in persevering to make a
+complete work of the exploration of the sources of the Nile. Mine has
+been a calm, hopeful endeavour to do the work that has been given me to
+do, whether I succeed or whether I fail. The prospect of death in
+pursuing what I knew to be right did not make me veer to one side or the
+other. I had a strong presentiment during the first three years that I
+should never live through the enterprise, but it weakened as I came near
+to the end of the journey, and an eager desire to discover any evidence
+of the great Moses having visited these parts bound me, spell-bound me,
+I may say, for if I could bring to light anything to confirm the Sacred
+Oracles, I should not grudge one whit all the labour expended. I have to
+go down the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake River, then up the Western or
+Young's Lake River to Katanga head waters and then retire. I pray that
+it may be to my native home.
+
+Syde bin Habib, Dugumb�, Juma Merikano, Abdullah Masendi are coming in
+with 700 muskets, and an immense store of beads, copper, &c. They will
+cross Lualaba and trade west of it: I wait for them because they may
+have letters for me.
+
+_28th October, 1870._--Moenemokata, who has travelled further than most
+Arabs, said to me, "If a man goes with a good-natured, civil tongue, he
+may pass through the worst people in Africa unharmed:" this is true, but
+time also is required: one must not run through a country, but give the
+people time to become acquainted with you, and let their first fears
+subside.
+
+_29th October, 1870._--The Manyuema buy their wives from each other; a
+pretty girl brings ten goats. I saw one brought home to-day; she came
+jauntily with but one attendant, and her husband walking behind. They
+stop five days, then go back and remain other five days at home: then
+the husband fetches her again. Many are pretty, and have perfect forms
+and limbs.
+
+_31st October, 1870._--Monangoi, of Luamo, married to the sister of
+Moen�kuss, came some time ago to beg that Kanyinger� might be attacked
+by Mohamad's people: no fault has he, "but he is bad." Monangoi, the
+chief here, offered two tusks to effect the same thing; on refusal, he
+sends the tusks to Katomba, and may get his countryman spoiled by him.
+"He is bad," is all they can allege as a reason. Meantime this chief
+here caught a slave who escaped, a prisoner from Moene-mokia's, and sold
+him or her to Moene-mokia for thirty spears and some knives; when asked
+about this captive, he said, "She died:" it was simply theft, but he
+does not consider himself bad.
+
+_2nd November, 1870._--The plain without trees that flanks the Lualaba
+on the right bank, called Mbuga, is densely peopled, and the
+inhabitants are all civil and friendly. From fifty to sixty large canoes
+come over from the left bank daily to hold markets; these people too
+"are good," but the dwellers in the Metamba or dense forest are
+treacherous and murder a single person without scruple: the dead body is
+easily concealed, while on the plain all would become aware of it.
+
+I long with intense desire to move on and finish my work, I have also an
+excessive wish to find anything that may exist proving the visit of the
+great Moses and the ancient kingdom of Tirhaka, but I pray give me just
+what pleases Thee my Lord, and make me submissive to Thy will in all
+things.
+
+I received information about Mr. Young's search trip up the Shir� and
+Nyassa only in February 1870, and now take the first opportunity of
+offering hearty thanks in a despatch to Her Majesty's Government, and
+all concerned in kindly inquiring after my fate.
+
+Musa and his companions were fair average specimens for heartlessness
+and falsehood of the lower classes of Mohamadans in East Africa. When we
+were on the Shir� we used to swing the ship into mid-stream every night,
+in order to let the air which was put in motion by the water, pass from
+end to end. Musa's brother-in-law stepped into the water one morning, in
+order to swim off for a boat, and was seized by a crocodile, the poor
+fellow held up his hand imploringly, but Musa and the rest allowed him
+to perish. On my denouncing his heartlessness, Musa-replied, "Well, no
+one tell him go in there." When at Senna a slave woman was seized by a
+crocodile: four Makololo rushed in unbidden, and rescued her, though
+they knew nothing about her: from long intercourse with both Johanna men
+and Makololo I take these incidents as typical of the two races. Those
+of mixed blood possess the vices of both races, and the virtues of
+neither.
+
+A gentleman of superior abilities[10] has devoted life and fortune to
+elevate the Johanna men, but fears that they are "an unimprovable race."
+
+The Sultan of Zanzibar, who knows his people better than any stranger,
+cannot entrust any branch of his revenue to even the better class of his
+subjects, but places all his customs, income, and money affairs, in the
+hands of Banians from India, and his father did before him.
+
+When the Mohamadan gentlemen of Zanzibar are asked "why their sovereign
+places all his pecuniary affairs and fortune in the hands of aliens?"
+they frankly avow that if he allowed any Arab to farm his customs, he
+would receive nothing but a crop of lies.
+
+Burton had to dismiss most of his people at Ujiji for dishonesty:
+Speke's followers deserted at the first approach of danger. Musa fled in
+terror on hearing a false report from a half-caste Arab about the
+Mazitu, 150 miles distant, though I promised to go due west, and not
+turn to the north till far past the beat of that tribe. The few
+liberated slaves with whom I went on had the misfortune to be Mohamadan
+slaves in boyhood, but did fairly till we came into close contact with
+Moslems again. A black Arab was released from a twelve years' bondage by
+Casembe, through my own influence and that of the Sultan's letter: we
+travelled together for a time, and he sold the favours of his female
+slaves to my people for goods which he perfectly well knew were stolen
+from me. He received my four deserters, and when I had gone off to Lake
+Bangweolo with only four attendants, the rest wished to follow, but he
+dissuaded them by saying that I had gone into a country where there was
+war: he was the direct cause of all my difficulties with these liberated
+slaves, but judged by the East African Moslem standard, as he ought to
+be, and not by ours, he isa very good man, and I did not think it
+prudent to come to a rupture with the old blackguard.
+
+"Laba" means in the Manyuema dialect "medicine;" a charm, "boganga:"
+this would make Lualaba mean the River of Medicine or charms. Hassani
+thought that it meant "great," because it seemed to mean flowing greatly
+or grandly.
+
+Casembe caught all the slaves that escaped from Mohamad, and placed them
+in charge of Fungafunga; so there is little hope for fugitive slaves so
+long as Casembe lives: this act is to the Arabs very good: he is very
+sensible, and upright besides.
+
+_3rd November, 1870._--Got a Kondohondo, the large double-billed
+Hornbill (the _Buceros cristata_), Kakomira, of the Shir�, and the
+Sassassa of Bambarr�. It is good eating, and has fat of an orange tinge,
+like that of the zebra; I keep the bill to make a spoon of it.
+
+An ambassador at Stamboul or Constantinople was shown a hornbill spoon,
+and asked if it were really the bill of the Phoenix. He replied that he
+did not know, but he had a friend in London who knew all these sort of
+things, so the Turkish ambassador in London brought the spoon to
+Professor Owen. He observed something in the divergences of the fibres
+of the horn which he knew before, and went off into the Museum of the
+College of Surgeons, and brought a preserved specimen of this very bird.
+"God is great--God is great," said the Turk, "this is the Phoenix of
+which we have heard so often." I heard the Professor tell this at a
+dinner of the London Hunterian Society in 1857.
+
+There is no great chief in Manyuema or Bal�gga; all are petty headmen,
+each of whom considers himself a chief: it is the ethnic state, with no
+cohesion between the different portions of the tribe. Murder cannot be
+punished except by a war, in which many fall, and the feud is made
+worse, and transmitted to their descendants.
+
+The heathen philosophers were content with mere guesses at the future
+of the soul. The elder prophets were content with the Divine support in
+life and in death. The later prophets advance further, as Isaiah: "Thy
+dead men shall live, together with my dead body shall they arise. Awake,
+and sing, ye that dwell in the dust: for thy dew is as the dew of herbs.
+The earth also shall cast out her dead." This, taken with the sublime
+spectacle of Hades in the fourteenth chapter, seems a forecast of the
+future, but Jesus instructed Mary and her sister and Lazarus; and Martha
+without hesitation spoke of the resurrection at the last day as a
+familiar doctrine, far in advance of the Mosaic law in which she had
+been reared.
+
+The Arabs tell me that Monyungo, a chief, was sent for five years among
+the Watuta to learn their language and ways, and he sent his two sons
+and a daughter to Zanzibar to school. He kills many of his people, and
+says they are so bad that if not killed they would murder strangers.
+Once they were unruly, when he ordered some of them to give their huts
+to Mohamad; on refusing, he put fire to them, and they soon called out,
+"Let them alone; we will retire." He dresses like an Arab, and has ten
+loaded guns at his sitting-place, four pistols, two swords, several
+spears, and two bundles of the Batuta spears: he laments that his father
+filed his teeth when he was young. The name of his very numerous people
+is Bawungu, country Urungu: his other names are Ironga, Mohamu.
+
+The Basango, on the other hand, consider their chief as a deity, and
+fear to say aught wrong, lest he should hear them: they fear both before
+him and when out of sight.
+
+The father of Mer�r� never drank pombe or beer, and assigned as a reason
+that a great man who had charge of people's lives should never become
+intoxicated so as to do evil. Bang� he never smoked, but in council
+smelled at a bunch of it, in order to make his people believe that it
+had a great effect on him. Mer�r� drinks pombe freely, but never uses
+bang�: he alone kills sheep; he is a lover of mutton and beef, but
+neither goats nor fowls are touched by him.
+
+_9th November, 1870._--I sent to Lohombo for dura, and planted some
+Nyumbo. I long excessively to be away and finish my work by the two
+Lacustrine rivers, Lualaba of Webb and Young, but wait only for Syde and
+Dugumb�, who may have letters, and as I do not intend to return hither,
+but go through Karagw� homewards, I should miss them altogether. I groan
+and am in bitterness at the delay, but thus it is: I pray for help to do
+what is right, but sorely am I perplexed, and grieved and mourn: I
+cannot give up making a complete work of the exploration.
+
+_10th November, 1870._--A party of Katomba's men arrived on their way to
+Ujiji for carriers, they report that a foray was made S.W. of Mamohela
+to recover four guns, which were captured from Katomba; three were
+recovered, and ten of the Arab party slain. The people of Manyuema
+fought very fiercely with arrows, and not till many were killed and
+others mutilated would they give up the guns; they probably expected
+this foray, and intended to fight till the last. They had not gone in
+search of ivory while this was enacting, consequently Mohamad's men have
+got the start of them completely, by going along Lualaba to Kasongo's,
+and then along the western verge of the Metamba or forest to Loind� or
+Rindi River. The last men sent took to fighting instead of trading, and
+returned empty; the experience gained thus, and at the south-west, will
+probably lead them to conclude that the Manyuema are not to be shot down
+without reasonable cause. They have sown rice and maize at Mamohela, but
+cannot trade now where they got so much ivory before. Five men were
+killed at Rindi or Loind�, and one escaped: the reason of this outbreak
+by men who have been so peaceable is not divulged, but anyone seeing the
+wholesale plunder to which the houses and gardens were subject can
+easily guess the rest. Mamohela's camp had several times been set on
+fire at night by the tribes which suffered assault, but did not effect
+all that was intended. The Arabs say that the Manyuema now understand
+that every gunshot does not kill; the next thing they will learn will
+be to grapple in close quarters in the forest, where their spears will
+outmatch the guns in the hands of slaves, it will follow, too, that no
+one will be able to pass through this country; this is the usual course
+of Suaheli trading; it is murder and plunder, and each slave as he rises
+in his owner's favour is eager to show himself a mighty man of valour,
+by cold-blooded killing of his countrymen: if they can kill a
+fellow-nigger, their pride boils up. The conscience is not enlightened
+enough to cause uneasiness, and Islam gives less than the light of
+nature.
+
+I am grievously tired of living here. Mohamad is as kind as he can be,
+but to sit idle or give up before I finish my work are both intolerable;
+I cannot bear either, yet I am forced to remain by want of people.
+
+_11th November, 1870._--I wrote to Mohamad bin Saleh at Ujiji for
+letters and medicines to be sent in a box of China tea, which is half
+empty: if he cannot get carriers for the long box itself, then he is to
+send these, the articles of which I stand in greatest need.
+
+The relatives of a boy captured at Monanyemb� brought three goats to
+redeem him: he is sick and emaciated; one goat was rejected. The boy
+shed tears when he saw his grandmother, and the father too, when his
+goat was rejected. "So I returned, and considered all the oppressions
+that are done under the sun: and behold the tears of such as were
+oppressed, and they had no comforter; and on the side of their
+oppressors there was power; but they had no comforter."--Eccles. iv. 1.
+The relations were told either to bring the goat, or let the boy die;
+this was hard-hearted. At Mamohela ten goats are demanded for a captive,
+and given too; here three are demanded. "He that is higher than the
+highest regardeth, and there be higher than they. Marvel not at the
+matter."
+
+I did not write to the coast, for I suspect that the Lewal� Syde bin
+Salem Buraschid destroys my letters in order to quash the affair of
+robbery by his man Saloom, he kept the other thief, Kamaels, by him for
+the same purpose. Mohamad writes to Bin Saleh to say that I am here and
+well; that I sent a large packet of letters in June 1869, with money,
+and received neither an answer, nor my box from Unyanyemb�, and this is
+to be communicated to the Consul by a friend at Zanzibar. If I wrote, it
+would only be to be burned; this is as far as I can see at present: the
+friend who will communicate with the Consul is Mohamad bin Abdullah the
+Wuzeer, Seyd Suleiman is the Lewal� of the Governor of Zanzibar,
+Suleiman bin Ali or _Sheikh_ Suleiman the Secretary.
+
+The Mamohela horde is becoming terrified, for every party going to trade
+has lost three or four men, and in the last foray they saw that the
+Manyuema can fight, for they killed ten men: they will soon refuse to go
+among those whom they have forced to become enemies.
+
+One of the Bazula invited a man to go with him to buy ivory; he went
+with him, and on getting into the Zulas country the stranger was asked
+by the guide if his gun killed men, and how it did it: whilst he was
+explaining the matter he was stabbed to death. No one knows the reason
+of this, but the man probably lost some of his relations elsewhere: this
+is called murder without cause. When Syde and Dugumb� come, I hope to
+get men and a canoe to finish my work among those who have not been
+abused by Ujijians, and still retain their natural kindness of
+disposition; none of the people are ferocious without cause; and the
+sore experience which they gain from slaves with guns in their hands
+usually ends in sullen hatred of all strangers.
+
+The education of the world is a terrible one, and it has come down with
+relentless rigour on Africa from the most remote times! What the African
+will become after this awfully hard lesson is learned, is among the
+future developments of Providence. When He, who is higher than the
+highest, accomplishes His purposes, this will be a wonderful country,
+and again something like what it was of old, when Zerah and Tirhaka
+flourished, and were great.
+
+The soil of Manyuema is clayey and remarkably fertile, the maize sown in
+it rushes up to seed, and everything is in rank profusion if only it be
+kept clear of weeds, but the Bambarr� people are indifferent
+cultivators, planting maize, bananas and plantains, and ground-nuts
+only--no dura, a little cassava, no pennisetum, meleza, pumpkins,
+melons, or nyumbo, though they all flourish in other districts: a few
+sweet potatoes appear, but elsewhere all these native grains and roots
+are abundant and cheap. No one would choose this as a residence, except
+for the sake of Moen�kuss. Oil is very dear, while at Lualaba a gallon
+may be got for a single string of beads, and beans, ground-nuts,
+cassava, maize, plantains in rank profusion. The Bal�gga, like the
+Bambarr� people, trust chiefly to plantains and ground-nuts; to play
+with parrots is their great amusement.
+
+_13th November, 1870._--The men sent over to Lohombo, about thirty miles
+off, got two and a half loads of dura for a small goat, but the people
+were unwilling to trade. "If we encourage Arabs to trade, they will come
+and kill us with their guns," so they said, and it is true: the slaves
+are overbearing, and when this is resented, then slaughter ensues. I got
+some sweet plantains and a little oil, which is useful in cooking, and
+with salt, passes for butter on bread, but all were unwilling to trade.
+Monangoi was over near Lohombo, and heard of a large trading party
+coming, and not far off; this may be Syde and Dugumb�, but reports are
+often false. When Katomba's men were on the late foray, they were
+completely overpowered, and compelled by the Manyuema to lay down their
+guns and powder-horns, on pain of being instantly despatched by bow-shot:
+they were mostly slaves, who could only draw the trigger and make a
+noise. Katomba had to rouse out all the Arabs who could shoot, and when
+they came they killed many, and gained the lost day; the Manyuema did
+not kill anyone who laid down his gun and powder-horn. This is the
+beginning of an end which was easily perceived when it became not a
+trading, but a foray of a murdering horde of savages.
+
+The foray above mentioned was undertaken by Katomba for twenty goats
+from Kassessa!--ten men lost for twenty goats, but they will think twice
+before they try another foray.
+
+A small bird follows the "Sassassa" or _Buceros cristata_. It screams
+and pecks at his tail till he discharges the contents of his bowels, and
+then leaves him; it is called "play" by the natives, and by the Suaheli
+"Utan�" or "Msaha"--fun or wit; he follows other birds in the same
+merciless way, screaming and pecking to produce purging; Manyuema call
+this bird "Mambambwa." The buffalo bird warns its big friend of danger,
+by calling "Chachacha," and the rhinoceros bird cries out, "Tye, tye,
+tye, tye," for the same purpose. The Manyuema call the buffalo bird
+"Mojela," and the Suaheli, "Chassa." A climbing plant in Africa is known
+as "Ntulungop�," which mixed with flour of dura kills mice; they swarm
+in our camp and destroy everything, but Ntulungop� is not near this.
+
+The Arabs tell me that one dollar a day is ample for provisions for a
+large family at Zanzibar; the food consists of wheat, rice, flesh of
+goats or ox, fowls, bananas, milk, butter, sugar, eggs, mangoes, and
+potatoes. Ambergris is boiled in milk and sugar, and used by the Hindoos
+as a means of increasing blood in their systems; a small quantity is a
+dose; it is found along the shore of the sea at Barawa or Brava, and at
+Madagascar, as if the sperm whale got rid of it while alive. Lamoo or
+Amu is wealthy, and well supplied with everything, as grapes, peaches,
+wheat, cattle, camels, &c. The trade is chiefly with Madagascar: the
+houses are richly furnished with furniture, dishes from India, &c. At
+Garaganza there are hundreds of Arab traders, there too all fruits
+abound, and the climate is healthy, from its elevation. Why cannot we
+missionaries imitate these Arabs in living on heights?
+
+_24th November, 1870._--Herpes is common at the plantations in Zanzibar,
+but the close crowding of the houses in the town they think prevents it;
+the lips and mouth are affected, and constipation sets in for three
+days, all this is cured by going over to the mainland. Affections of the
+lungs are healed by residence at Bariwa or Brava, and also on the
+mainland. The Tafori of Halfani took my letters from Ujiji, but who the
+person employed is I do not know.
+
+_29th November, 1870._--_Safura_ is the name of the disease of clay or
+earth eating, at Zanzibar; it often affects slaves, and the clay is said
+to have a pleasant odour to the eaters, but it is not confined to
+slaves, nor do slaves eat in order to kill themselves; it is a diseased
+appetite, and rich men who have plenty to eat are often subject to it.
+The feet swell, flesh is lost, and the face looks haggard; the patient
+can scarcely walk for shortness of breath and weakness, and he continues
+eating till he dies. Here many slaves are now diseased with safura; the
+clay built in walls is preferred, and Manyuema women when pregnant often
+eat it. The cure is effected by drastic purges composed as follows: old
+vinegar of cocoa-trees is put into a large basin, and old slag red-hot
+cast into it, then "Money�," asafoetida, half a rupee in weight,
+copperas, sulph. ditto: a small glass of this, fasting morning and
+evening, produces vomiting and purging of black dejections, this is
+continued for seven days; no meat is to be eaten, but only old rice or
+dura and water; a fowl in course of time: no fish, butter, eggs, or
+beef for two years on pain of death. Mohamad's father had skill in the
+cure, and the above is his prescription. Safura is thus a disease _per
+se_; it is common in Manyuema, and makes me in a measure content to wait
+for my medicines; from the description, inspissated bile seems to be the
+agent of blocking up the gall-duct and duodenum and the clay or earth
+may be nature trying to clear it away: the clay appears unchanged in the
+stools, and in large quantity. A Banyamwezi carrier, who bore an
+enormous load of copper, is now by safura scarcely able to walk; he took
+it at Lualaba where food is abundant, and he is contented with his lot.
+Squeeze a finger-nail, and if no blood appears beneath it, safura is the
+cause of the bloodlessness.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] A precisely similar epidemic broke out at the settlement at
+Magomero, in which fifty-four of the slaves liberated by Dr.
+Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie died. This disease is by far the most
+fatal scourge the natives suffer from, not even excepting small-pox.
+It is common throughout Tropical Africa. We believe that some
+important facts have recently been brought to light regarding it, and
+we can only trust sincerely that the true nature of the disorder will
+be known in time, so that it may be successfully treated: at present
+change of air and high feeding on a meat diet are the best remedies we
+know.--ED.
+
+[9] Dr. Livingstone never ceased to impress upon Europeans the utter
+necessity of living on the high table-lands of the interior, rather
+than on the sea-board or the banks of the great arterial rivers. Men
+may escape death in an unhealthy place, but the system is enfeebled
+and energy reduced to the lowest ebb. Under such circumstances life
+becomes a misery, and important results can hardly be looked for when
+one's vitality is preoccupied in wrestling with the unhealthiness of
+the situation, day and night.--ED.
+
+[10] Mr. John Sunley, of Pomon�, Johanna, an island in the Comoro
+group.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Mer�r�. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarr�. Go�tre.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Parts at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to
+    eat a white one." Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nyangw�. Reaches the Lualaba.
+
+
+_6th December, 1870._--Oh, for Dugumb� or Syde to come! but this delay
+may be all for the best. The parrots all seize their food, and hold it
+with the left hand, the lion, too, is left-handed; he strikes with the
+left, so are all animals left-handed save man.
+
+I noticed a very pretty woman come past this quite jauntily about a
+month ago, on marriage with Monasimba. Ten goats were given; her friends
+came and asked another goat, which being refused, she was enticed away,
+became sick of rheumatic fever two days afterwards, and died yesterday.
+Not a syllable of regret for the beautiful young creature does one hear,
+but for the goats: "Oh, our ten goats!"--they cannot grieve too
+much--"Our ten goats--oh! oh!"
+
+Basanga wail over those who die in bed, but not over those who die in
+battle: the cattle are a salve for all sores. Another man was killed
+within half a mile of this: they quarrelled, and there is virtually no
+chief. The man was stabbed, the village burned, and the people all fled:
+they are truly a bloody people!
+
+A man died near this, Monasimba went to his wife, and after washing he
+may appear among men. If no widow can be obtained, he must sit naked
+behind his house till some one happens to die, all the clothes he wore
+are thrown away. They are the lowest of the low, and especially in
+bloodiness: the man who killed a woman without cause goes free, he
+offered his grandmother to be killed in his stead, and after a great
+deal of talk nothing was done to him!
+
+_8th December, 1870._--Suleiman-bin-Juma lived on the mainland,
+Mosessam�, opposite Zanzibar: it is impossible to deny his power of
+foresight, except by rejecting all evidence, for he frequently foretold
+the deaths of great men among Arabs, and he was pre-eminently a good
+man, upright and sincere: "Thirti," none like him now for goodness and
+skill. He said that two middle-sized white men, with straight noses and
+flowing hair down to the girdle behind, came at times, and told him
+things to come. He died twelve years ago, and left no successor; he
+foretold his own decease three days beforehand by cholera. "Heresi," a
+ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, is a grand charm to the
+animal and to Arabs. Mohamad has one.
+
+_10th December, 1870._--I am sorely let and hindered in this Manyuema.
+Rain every day, and often at night; I could not travel now, even if I
+had men, but I could make some progress; this is the sorest delay I ever
+had. I look above for help and mercy.
+
+[The wearied man tried to while away the time by gaining little scraps
+of information from the Arabs and the natives, but we cannot fail to see
+what a serious stress was all the time put upon his constitution under
+these circumstances; the reader will pardon the disjointed nature of
+his narrative, written as it was under the greatest disadvantage.]
+
+
+Lion's fat is regarded as a sure preventive of tsetse or bungo. This was
+noted before, but I add now that it is smeared on the ox's tail, and
+preserves hundreds of the Banyamwesi cattle in safety while going to the
+coast; it is also used to keep pigs and hippopotami away from gardens:
+the smell is probably the efficacious part in "Heresi," as they call it.
+
+_12th December, 1870._--It may be all for the best that I am so
+hindered, and compelled to inactivity.
+
+An advance to Lohombo was the furthest point of traders for many a day,
+for the slaves returning with ivory were speared mercilessly by
+Manyuema, because they did not know guns could kill, and their spears
+could. Katomba coming to Moen�kuss was a great feat three or four years
+ago; then Dugumb� went on to Lualaba, and fought his way, so I may be
+restrained now in mercy till men come.
+
+The Neggeri, an African animal, attacks the tenderest parts of man and
+beast, cuts them off, and retires contented: buffaloes are often
+castrated by him. Men who know it, squat down, and kill him with knife
+or gun. The Zibu or mbuid� flies at the tendon Achilles; it is most
+likely the Ratel.
+
+The Fisi ea bahari, probably the seal, is abundant in the seas, but the
+ratel or badger probably furnished the skins for the Tabernacle: bees
+escape from his urine, and he eats their honey in safety; lions and all
+other animals fear his attacks of the heel.
+
+The Babemba mix a handful (about twenty-five to a measure) of castor-oil
+seeds with the dura and meleza they grind, and usage makes them like it,
+the nauseous taste is not perceptible in porridge; the oil is needed
+where so much farinaceous or starchy matter exists, and the bowels are
+regulated by the mixture: experience has taught them the need of a fatty
+ingredient.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been anxious to procure all the
+information possible from the Arabs respecting the powerful chief
+Mer�r�, who is reported to live on the borders of the Salt Water Lake,
+which lies between Lake Tanganyika and the East Coast. It would seem as
+if Mer�r� held the most available road for travellers passing to the
+south-west from Zanzibar, and although the Doctor did not go through his
+country, he felt an interest no doubt in ascertaining as much as he
+could for the benefit of others.]
+
+Goambari is a prisoner at Mer�r�'s, guarded by a thousand or more men,
+to prevent him intriguing with Monyungo, who is known as bloodthirsty.
+In the third generation Charura's descendants numbered sixty able-bodied
+spearmen, Garahenga or Kimamur� killed many of them. Charura had six
+white attendants with him, but all died before he did, and on becoming
+chief he got all his predecessor's wives. Mer�r� is the son of a woman
+of the royal stock, and of a common man, hence he is a shade or two
+darker than Charura's descendants, who are very light coloured, and have
+straight noses. They shave the head, and straight hair is all cut off;
+they drink much milk, warm, from the teats of the cows, and think that
+it is strengthening by its heat.
+
+_December 23rd, 1870._--Bambarr� people suffer hunger now because they
+will not plant cassava; this trading party eats all the maize, and sends
+to a distance for more, and the Manyuema buy from them with malofu, or
+palm-toddy. Rice is all coming into ear, but the Manyuema planted none:
+maize is ripening, and mice are a pest. A strong man among the Manyuema
+does what he pleases, and no chief interferes: for instance, a man's
+wife for ten goats was given off to a Men� man, and his child, now
+grown, is given away, too; he comes to Mohamad for redress! Two
+elephants killed were very large, but have only small tusks: they come
+from the south in the rains. All animals, as elephants, buffaloes, and
+zebras, are very large in the Basango country; tusks are full in the
+hollows, and weigh very heavy, and animals are fat and good in flesh:
+eleven goats are the exchange for the flesh of an elephant.
+
+[The following details respecting ivory cannot fail to be interesting
+here: they are very kindly furnished by Mr. F.D. Blyth, whose long
+experience enables him to speak with authority upon the subject. He
+says, England imports about 550 tons of ivory annually,--of this 280
+tons pass away to other countries, whilst the remainder is used by our
+manufacturers, of whom the Sheffield cutlers alone require about 170
+tons. The whole annual importation is derived from the following
+countries, and in the quantities given below, as near as one can
+approach to actual figures:
+
+    Bombay and Zanzibar export      160 tons.
+    Alexandria and Malta            180 "
+    West Coast of Africa            140 "
+    Cape of Good Hope                50 "
+    Mozambique                       20 "
+
+The Bombay merchants collect ivory from all the southern countries of
+Asia, and the East Coast of Africa, and after selecting that which is
+most suited to the wants of the Indian and Chinese markets, ship the
+remainder to Europe.
+
+From Alexandria and Malta we receive ivory collected from Northern and
+Central Africa, from Egypt, and the countries through which the Nile
+flows.
+
+Immediately after the Franco-German war the value of ivory increased
+considerably; and when we look at the prices realized on large Zanzibar
+tusks at the public sales, we can well understand the motive power which
+drove the Arab ivory hunters further and further into the country from
+which the chief supply was derived when Dr. Livingstone met them.
+
+    In 1867 their price varied from �39 to �42.
+     " 1868    "   "     "      "    39  "  42.
+     " 1869    "   "     "      "    41  "  44.
+     " 1870    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1871    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1872    "   "     "      "    58  "  61.
+     " 1873    "   "     "      "    68  "  72.
+     " 1874    "   "     "      "    53  "  58.
+
+Single tusks vary in weight from 1 lb. to 165 lbs.: the average of a
+pair of tusks may be put at 28 lbs., and therefore 44,000 elephants,
+large and small, must be killed yearly to supply the ivory which _comes
+to England alone_, and when we remember that an enormous quantity goes
+to America, to India and China, for consumption there, and of which we
+have no account, some faint notion may be formed of the destruction that
+goes on amongst the herds of elephants.
+
+Although naturalists distinguish only two living species of elephants,
+viz. the African and the Asiatic, nevertheless there is a great
+difference in the size, character, and colour of their tusks, which may
+arise from variations in climate, soil, and food. The largest tusks are
+yielded by the African elephant, and find their way hither from the port
+of Zanzibar: they are noted for being opaque, soft or "mellow" to work,
+and free from cracks or defects.
+
+The tusks from India, Ceylon, &c, are smaller in size, partly of an
+opaque character, and partly translucent (or, as it is technically
+called "bright"), and harder and more cracked, but those from Siam and
+the neighbouring countries are very "bright," soft, and fine grained;
+they are much sought after for carvings and ornamental work. Tusks from
+Mozambique and the Cape of Good Hope seldom exceed 70 lbs. in weight
+each: they are similar in character to the Zanzibar kind.
+
+Tusks which come through Alexandria and Malta differ considerably in
+quality: some resemble those from Zanzibar, whilst others are white and
+opaque, harder to work, and more cracked at the points; and others again
+are very translucent and hard, besides being liable to crack: this
+latter description fetches a much lower price in the market.
+
+From the West Coast of Africa we get ivory which is always translucent,
+with a dark outside or coating, but partly hard and partly soft.
+
+The soft ivory which comes from Ambriz, the Gaboon River, and the ports
+south of the equator, is more highly valued than any other, and is
+called "silver grey": this sort retains its whiteness when exposed to
+the air, and is free from that tendency to become yellowish in time
+which characterises Asiatic and East African ivory.
+
+Hard tusks, as a rule, are proportionately smaller in diameter, sharper,
+and less worn than soft ones, and they come to market much more cracked,
+fetching in consequence a lower price.
+
+In addition to the above a few tons of Mammoth ivory are received from
+time to time from the Arctic regions and Siberia, and although of
+unknown antiquity, some tusks are equal in every respect to ivory which
+is obtained in the present day from elephants newly killed; this, no
+doubt, is owing to the preservative effects of the ice in which the
+animals have been imbedded for many thousands of years. In the year 1799
+the entire carcase of a mammoth was taken from the ice, and the skeleton
+and portions of the skin, still covered with reddish hair, are preserved
+in the Museum of St. Petersburg: it is said that portions of the flesh
+were eaten by the men who dug it out of the ice.]
+
+
+_24th December, 1870._--Between twenty-five and thirty slaves have died
+in the present epidemic, and many Manyuema; two yesterday at Kandawara.
+The feet swell, then the hands and face, and in a day or two they drop
+dead; it came from the East, and is very fatal, for few escape who take
+it.
+
+A woman was accused of stealing maize, and the chief here sent all his
+people yesterday, plundered all she had in her house and garden, and
+brought her husband bound in thongs till he shall pay a goat: she is
+said to be innocent.
+
+Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here; and, as the people tell
+him, as soon as they are gone the vengeance he is earning by injustice
+on all sides will be taken: I told the chief that his head would be cut
+off as soon as the traders leave, and so it will be; and Kasessa's also.
+
+Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo's to buy Viramba, and a man was
+speared belonging to Kasongo, these three then fired into a mass of men
+who collected, one killed two, another three, and so on; so now that
+place is shut up from traders, and all this country will be closed as
+soon as the Manyuema learn that guns are limited in their power of
+killing, and especially in the hands of slaves, who cannot shoot, but
+only make a noise. These Suaheli are the most cruel and bloodthirsty
+missionaries in existence, and withal so impure in talk and acts,
+spreading disease everywhere. The Lord sees it.
+
+_28th December, 1870._--Moenembegg, the most intelligent of the two sons
+of Moen�kuss, in power, told us that a man was killed and eaten a few
+miles from this yesterday: hunger was the reason assigned. On speaking
+of tainted meat, he said that the Manyuema put meat in water for two
+days to make it putrid and smell high. The love of high meat is the only
+reason I know for their cannibalism, but the practice is now hidden on
+account of the disgust that the traders expressed against open
+man-eating when they first arrived.
+
+Lightning was very near us last night. The Manyuema say that when it is
+so loud fishes of large size fall with it, an opinion shared by the
+Arabs, but the large fish is really the _Clarias Capensis_ of Smith, and
+it is often seen migrating in single file along the wet grass for miles:
+it is probably this that the Manyuema think falls from the lightning.
+
+The strangest disease I have seen in this country seems really to be
+broken-heartedness, and it attacks free men who have been captured and
+made slaves. My attention was drawn to it when the elder brother of Syde
+bin Habib was killed in Rua by a night attack, from a spear being
+pitched through his tent into his side. Syde then vowed vengeance for
+the blood of his brother, and assaulted all he could find, killing the
+elders, and making the young men captives. He had secured a very large
+number, and they endured the chains until they saw the broad River
+Lualaba roll between them and their free homes; they then lost heart.
+Twenty-one were unchained as being now safe; however, all ran away at
+once, but eight, with many others still in chains, died in three days
+after crossing. They ascribed their only pain to the heart, and placed
+the hand correctly on the spot, though many think that the organ stands
+high up under the breast bone. Some slavers expressed surprise to me
+that they should die, seeing they had plenty to eat and no work. One
+fine boy of about twelve years was carried, and when about to expire,
+was kindly laid down on the side of the path, and a hole dug to deposit
+the body in. He, too, said he had nothing the matter with him, except
+pain in his heart: as it attacks only the free (who are captured and
+never slaves), it seems to be really broken-hearts of which they die.
+
+[Livingstone's servants give some additional particulars in answer to
+questions put to them about this dreadful history. The sufferings
+endured by these unfortunate captives, whilst they were hawked about in
+different directions, must have been shocking indeed; many died because
+it was impossible for them to carry a burden on the head whilst marching
+in the heavy yoke or "taming stick," which weighs from 30 lbs. to 40
+lbs. as a rule, and the Arabs knew that if once the stick were taken
+off, the captive would escape on the first opportunity. Children for a
+time would keep up with wonderful endurance, but it happened sometimes
+that the sound of dancing and the merry tinkle of the small drums would
+fall on their ears in passing near to a village; then the memory of home
+and happy days proved too much for them; they cried and sobbed, the
+"broken-heart" came on, and they rapidly sank.
+
+The adults as a rule came into the slave-sticks from treachery, and had
+never been slaves before. Very often the Arabs would promise a present
+of dried fish to villagers if they would act as guides to some distant
+point, and as soon as they were far enough away from their friends they
+were seized and pinned into the yoke from which there is no escape.
+These poor fellows would expire in the way the Doctor mentions, talking
+to the last of their wives and children who would never know what had
+become of them. On one occasion twenty captives succeeded in escaping as
+follows. Chained together by the neck, and in the custody of an Arab
+armed with a gun, they were sent off to collect wood; at a given signal,
+one of them called the guard to look at something which he pretended he
+had found: when he stooped down they threw themselves upon him and
+overpowered him, and after he was dead managed to break the chain and
+make off in all directions.]
+
+Rice sown on 19th October was in ear in seventy days. A leopard killed
+my goat, and a gun set for him went off at 10 P.M.--the ball broke both
+hind legs and one fore leg, yet he had power to spring up and bite a man
+badly afterwards; he was a male, 2 feet 4 inches at withers, and 6 feet
+8 inches from tip of nose to end of tail.
+
+_1st January, 1871._--O Father! help me to finish this work to Thy
+honour.
+
+Still detained at Bambarr�, but a caravan of 500 muskets is reported
+from the coast: it may bring me other men and goods.
+
+Rain daily. A woman was murdered without cause close by the camp; the
+murderer said she was a witch and speared her: the body is exposed till
+the affair is settled, probably by a fine of goats.
+
+The Manyuema are the most bloody, callous savages I know; one puts a
+scarlet feather from a parrot's tail on the ground, and challenges those
+near to stick it in the hair: he who does so must kill a man or woman!
+
+Another custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk cat, Ngawa,
+unless he has murdered somebody: guns alone prevent them from killing us
+all, and for no reason either.
+
+_16th January, 1871._--Ramad�n ended last night, and it is probable my
+people and others from the coast will begin to travel after three days
+of feasting. It has been so rainy I could have done little though I had
+had people.
+
+_22nd January, 1871._--A party is reported to be on the way hither. This
+is likely enough, but reports are so often false that doubts arise.
+Mohamad says he will give men when the party of Hassani comes, or when
+Dugumb� arrives.
+
+_24th January, 1871._--Mohamad mentioned this morning that Moene-mokaia,
+and Moeneghera his brother, brought about thirty slaves from Kata�ga to
+Ujiji, affected with swelled thyroid glands or "_Go�tre_," and that
+drinking the water of Tanganyika proved a perfect cure to all in a very
+few days. Sometimes the swelling went down in two days after they began
+to use the water, in their ordinary way of cooking, washing, and
+drinking: possibly some ingredient of the hot fountain that flows into
+it affects the cure, for the people on the Lofubu, in Nsama's country,
+had the swelling. The water in bays is decidedly brackish, while the
+body of Tanganyika is quite fresh.
+
+The odour of putrid elephant's meat in a house kills parrots: the
+Manyuema keep it till quite rotten, but know its fatal effects on their
+favourite birds.
+
+_27th January, 1871._--Safari or caravan reported to be near, and my men
+and goods at Ujiji.
+
+_28th January, 1871._--A safari, under Hassani and Ebed, arrived with
+news of great mortality by cholera (_Towny_), at Zanzibar, and my
+"brother," whom I conjecture to be Dr. Kirk, has fallen. The men I wrote
+for have come to Ujiji, but did not know my whereabouts; when told by
+Katomba's men they will come here, and bring my much longed for letters
+and goods. 70,000 victims in Zanzibar alone from cholera, and it spread
+inland to the Masoi and Ugogo! Cattle shivered, and fell dead: the
+fishes in the sea died in great numbers; here the fowls were first
+seized and died, but not from cholera, only from its companion. Thirty
+men perished in our small camp, made still smaller by all the able men
+being off trading at the Metamba, and how many Manyuema died we do not
+know; the survivors became afraid of eating the dead.
+
+Formerly the Cholera kept along the sea-shore, now it goes far inland,
+and will spread all over Africa; this we get from Mecca filth, for
+nothing was done to prevent the place being made a perfect cesspool of
+animals' guts and ordure of men.[11] A piece of skin bound round the
+chest of a man, and half of it hanging down, prevents waste of strength,
+and he forgets and fattens.
+
+Ebed's party bring 200 frasilahs of all sorts of beads; they will cross
+Lualaba, and open a new field on the other, or Young's Lualaba: all
+Central Africa will soon be known: the evils inflicted by these Arabs
+are enormous, but probably not greater than the people inflict on each
+other. Mer�r� has turned against the Arabs, and killed one; robbing
+several others of all they had, though he has ivory sufficient to send
+down 7000 lbs. to the coast, and receive loads of goods for 500 men in
+return. He looks as if insane, and probably is so, and will soon be
+killed. His insanity may be the effect of pombe, of which he drinks
+largely, and his people may have told him that the Arabs were plotting
+with Goambari. He restored Mohamad's ivory and slaves, and sent for the
+other traders who had fled, saying his people had spoken badly, and he
+would repay all losses.
+
+The Watuta (who are the same as the Mazitu) came stealing Banyamwezi
+cattle, and Mt�za's men went out to them, and twenty-two were killed,
+but the Lewale's people did nothing. The Governor's sole anxiety is to
+obtain ivory, and no aid is rendered to traders. Seyed Suleiman the
+Wazeer is the author of the do-nothing policy, and sent away all the
+sepoys as too expensive, consequently the Wagogo plunder traders
+unchecked. It is reported that Egyptian Turks came up and attacked
+Mt�za, but lost many people, and fled. The report of a Moslem Mission to
+his country was a falsehood, though the details given were
+circumstantial: falsehood is so common, one can believe nothing the
+Arabs say, unless confirmed by other evidence: they are the followers of
+the Prince of lies--Mohamad, whose cool appropriation of the knowledge
+gained at Damascus, and from the Jews, is perfectly disgusting. All his
+deeds were done when unseen by any witnesses. It is worth noticing that
+all admit the decadence of the Moslem power, and they ask how it is so
+fallen? They seem sincere in their devotion and in teaching the Koran,
+but its meaning is comparatively hid from most of the Suaheli. The
+Persian Arabs are said to be gross idolators, and awfully impure. Earth
+from a grave at Kurbelow (?) is put in the turban and worshipped: some
+of the sects won't say "Amen."
+
+Moenyegumb� never drank more than a mouthful of pombe. When young, he
+could make his spear pass right through an elephant, and stick in the
+ground on the other side. He was a large man, and all his members were
+largely developed, his hands and fingers were all in proportion to his
+great height; and he lived to old age with strength unimpaired: Goambari
+inherits his white colour and sharp nose, but not his wisdom or courage.
+Mer�r� killed five of his own people for exciting him against the Arabs.
+The half-caste is the murderer of many of Charura's descendants. His
+father got a daughter of Moenyegumb� for courage in fighting the Babema
+of Ubena.
+
+Cold-blooded murders are frightfully common here. Some kill people in
+order to be allowed to wear the red tail feathers of a parrot in their
+hair, and yet they are not ugly like the West Coast Negroes, for many
+men have as finely formed heads as could be found in London. We English,
+if naked, would make but poor figures beside the strapping forms and
+finely shaped limbs of Manyuema men and women. Their cannibalism is
+doubtful, but my observations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch jury
+would say, "Not proven." The women are not guilty.
+
+_4th February, 1871._--Ten of my men from the coast have come near to
+Bambarr�, and will arrive to-day. I am extremely thankful to hear it,
+for it assures me that my packet of letters was not destroyed; they know
+at home by this time what has detained me, and the end to which I
+strain.
+
+Only one letter reached, and forty are missing! James was killed to-day
+by an arrow: the assassin was hid in the forest till my men going to buy
+food came up.[12] I propose to leave on the 12th. I have sent Dr. Kirk a
+cheque for Rs. 4000: great havoc was made by cholera, and in the midst
+of it my friend exerted himself greatly to get men off to me with goods;
+the first gang of porters all died.
+
+_8th February, 1871._--The ten men refusing to go north are influenced
+probably by Shereef, and my two ringleaders, who try this means to
+compel me to take them.
+
+_9th February, 1871._--The man who contrived the murder of James came
+here, drawn by the pretence that he was needed to lead a party against
+the villages, which he led to commit the outrage. His thirst for blood
+is awful: he was bound, and word sent to bring the actual murderers
+within three days, or he suffers death. He brought five goats, thinking
+that would smooth the matter over.
+
+_11th February, 1871._--Men struck work for higher wages: I consented to
+give them six dollars a month if they behaved well; if ill I diminish
+it, so we hope to start to-morrow. Another hunting quelled by Mohamad
+and me.
+
+The ten men sent are all slaves of the Banians, who are English
+subjects, and they come with a lie in their mouth: they will not help
+me, and swear that the Consul told them not to go forward, but to force
+me back, and they spread the tale all over the country that a certain
+letter has been sent to me with orders to return forthwith. They swore
+so positively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk's letter to see
+if his orders had been rightly understood by me. But for Mohamad
+Bogharib and fear of pistol-shot they would gain their own and their
+Banian masters' end to baffle me completely; they demand an advance of
+one dollar, or six dollars a month, though this is double freeman's pay
+at Zanzibar. Their two headmen, Shereef and Awath�, refused to come past
+Ujiji, and are revelling on my goods there.
+
+_13th February, 1871._--Mabruki being seized with choleraic purging
+detains us to-day. I gave Mohamad five pieces Americano, five ditto
+Kanik�,[13] and two frasilahs samisami beads. He gives me a note to
+Hassani for twenty thick copper bracelets. Yesterday crowds came to eat
+the meat of the man who misled James to his death spot: but we want the
+men who set the Mbanga men to shoot him: they were much disappointed
+when they found that no one was killed, and are undoubtedly cannibals.
+
+_16th, February, 1871._--Started to-day. Mabruki making himself out
+very ill, Mohamad roused him out by telling him I travelled when much
+worse. The chief gave me a goat, and Mohamad another, but in coming
+through the forest on the neck of the mountain the men lost three, and
+have to go back for them, and return to-morrow. Simon and Ibram were
+bundled out of the camp, and impudently followed me: when they came
+up, I told them to be off.
+
+_17th February, 1871._--Waiting at a village on the Western slope for
+the men to come up with the goats, if they have gone back to the camp.
+Mohamad would not allow the deserters to remain among his people, nor
+would I. It would only be to imbue the minds of my men with their want
+of respect for all English, and total disregard of honesty and honour:
+they came after me with inimitable effrontery, believing that though I
+said I would not take them, they were so valuable, I was only saying
+what I knew to be false. The goats were brought by a Manyuema man, who
+found one fallen into a pitfall and dead; he ate it, and brought one of
+his own in lieu of it. I gave him ten strings of beads, and he presented
+a fowl in token of goodwill.
+
+_18th February, 1871._--Went on to a village on the Lulwa, and on the
+19th reached Moenemgoi, who dissuaded me so earnestly against going to
+Moenekurumbo for the cause of Molembalemba that I agreed not to venture.
+
+_20th February, 1871._--To the ford with only one canoe now, as two men
+of Katomba were swept away in the other, and drowned. They would not
+sell the remaining canoe, so I go N.W. on foot to Moen� Lualaba, where
+fine large canoes are abundant. The grass and mud are grievous, but my
+men lift me over the waters.
+
+_21st February, 1871._--Arrived at Monandewa's village, situated on a
+high ridge between two deep and difficult gullies. These people are
+obliging and kind: the chief's wife made a fire for me in the evening
+unbidden.
+
+_22nd February, 1871._--On N.W. to a high hill called Chiband� a Yund�,
+with a spring of white water at the village on the top. Famine from some
+unknown cause here, but the people are cultivating now on the plain
+below with a will.
+
+_23rd February, 1871._--On to two large villages with many banana plants
+around, but the men said they were in fear of the traders, and shifted
+their villages to avoid them: we then went on to the village
+Kahombogola, with a feeble old man as chief. The country is beautiful
+and undulating: light-green grass covers it all, save at the brooks,
+where the eye is relieved by the dark-green lines of trees. Grass tears
+the hands and wets the extremities constantly. The soil is formed of the
+d�bris of granitic rocks; rough and stony, but everywhere fertile. One
+can rarely get a bare spot to sit down and rest.
+
+_24th February, 1871._--To a village near Loland� River. Then across
+the Loengady�, sleeping on the bank of the Luha, and so to Mamohela,
+where we were welcomed by all the Arabs, and I got a letter from Dr.
+Kirk and another from the Sultan, and from Mohamad bin Nassib who was
+going to Karagw�: all anxious to be kind. Katomba gave flour, nuts,
+fowls, and goat. A new way is opened to Kasongo's, much shorter than
+that I followed. I rest a few days, and then go on.
+
+_25th February, 1871._--So we went on, and found that it was now known
+that the Lualaba flowed west-south-west, and that our course was to be
+west across this other great bend of the mighty river. I had to suspend
+my judgment, so as to be prepared to find it after all perhaps the
+Congo. No one knew anything about it except that when at Kasongo's nine
+days west, and by south it came sweeping round and flowed north and
+north and by east.
+
+Katomba presented a young soko or gorillah that had been caught while
+its mother was killed; she sits eighteen inches high, has fine long
+black hair all over, which was pretty so long as it was kept in order by
+her dam. She is the least mischievous of all the monkey tribe I have
+seen, and seems to know that in me she has a friend, and sits quietly on
+the mat beside me. In walking, the first thing observed is that she does
+not tread on the palms of her hands, but on the backs of the second line
+of bones of the hands: in doing this the nails do not touch the ground,
+nor do the knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported crutch fashion,
+and hitches herself along between them; occasionally one hand is put
+down before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she walks
+upright and holds up a hand to any one to carry her. If refused, she
+turns her face down, and makes grimaces of the most bitter human
+weeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes adding a fourth hand or foot
+to make the appeal more touching. Grass or leaves she draws around her
+to make a nest, and resents anyone meddling with her property. She is a
+most friendly little beast, and came up to me at once, making her
+chirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, and held out her hand to be
+shaken. I slapped her palm without offence, though she winced. She began
+to untie the cord with which she was afterwards bound, with fingers and
+thumbs, in quite a systematic way, and on being interfered with by a man
+looked daggers, and screaming tried to beat him with her hands: she was
+afraid of his stick, and faced him, putting her back to me as a friend.
+She holds out her hand for people to lift her up and carry her, quite
+like a spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry, somewhat like
+that of a kite, wrings her hands quite naturally, as if in despair. She
+eats everything, covers herself with a mat to sleep, and makes a nest of
+grass or leaves, and wipes her face with a leaf.
+
+I presented my double-barrelled gun which is at Ujiji to Katomba, as he
+has been very kind when away from Ujiji: I pay him thus for all his
+services. He gave me the soko, and will carry it to Ujiji for me; I have
+tried to refund all that the Arabs expended on me.
+
+_1st March, 1871._--I was to start this morning, but the Arabs asked me
+to take seven of their people going to buy biramba, as they know the new
+way: the offer was gladly accepted.
+
+_2nd to 5th March, 1871._--Left Mamohela, and travelled over fine grassy
+plains, crossing in six hours fourteen running rills, from three to ten
+or fifteen feet broad, and from calf to thigh deep. Tree-covered
+mountains on both sides. The natives know the rills by names, and
+readily tell their courses, and which falls into which, before all go
+into the great Lualaba; but without one as a guide, no one can put them
+in a map. We came to Monanbunda's villages, and spent the night. Our
+next stage was at Monangongo's. A small present of a few strings of
+beads satisfies, but is not asked: I give it invariably as
+acknowledgment for lodgings. The headman of our next stage hid himself
+in fear, as we were near to the scene of Bin Juma's unprovoked slaughter
+of five men, for tusks that were not stolen, but thrown down. Our path
+lay through dense forest, and again, on 5th, our march was in the same
+dense jungle of lofty trees and vegetation that touch our arms on each
+side. We came to some villages among beautiful tree-covered hills,
+called Basila�g� or Mobasilang�. The villages are very pretty, standing
+on slopes. The main street generally lies east and west, to allow the
+bright sun to stream his clear hot rays from one end to the other, and
+lick up quickly the moisture from the frequent showers which is not
+drained off by the slopes. A little verandah is often made in front of
+the door, and here at dawn the family gathers round a fire, and, while
+enjoying the heat needed in the cold that always accompanies the first
+darting of the light or sun's rays across the atmosphere, inhale the
+delicious air, and talk over their little domestic affairs. The various
+shaped leaves of the forest all around their village and near their
+nestlings are bespangled with myriads of dewdrops. The cocks crow
+vigorously, and strut and ogle; the kids gambol and leap on the backs of
+their dams quietly chewing the cud; other goats make believe fighting.
+Thrifty wives often bake their new clay pots in a fire, made by lighting
+a heap of grass roots: the next morning they extract salt from the
+ashes, and so two birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of this
+morning scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable. Infancy gilds the
+fairy picture with its own lines, and it is probably never forgotten,
+for the young, taken up from slavers, and treated with all philanthropic
+missionary care and kindness, still revert to the period of infancy as
+the finest and fairest they have known. They would go back to freedom
+and enjoyment as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be heedless
+to the charms of hard work and no play which we think so much better
+for them if not for us.
+
+In some cases we found all the villages deserted; the people had fled at
+our approach, in dread of repetitions of the outrages of Arab slaves.
+The doors were all shut: a bunch of the leaves of reeds or of green
+reeds placed across them, means "no entrance here." A few stray chickens
+wander about wailing, having hid themselves while the rest were caught
+and carried off into the deep forest, and the still smoking fires tell
+the same tale of recent flight from the slave-traders.
+
+Many have found out that I am not one of their number, so in various
+cases they stand up and call out loudly, "Bolongo, Bolongo!"
+"Friendship, Friendship!" They sell their fine iron bracelets eagerly
+for a few beads; for (bracelets seem out of fashion since beads came
+in), but they are of the finest quality of iron, and were they nearer
+Europe would be as eagerly sought and bought as horse-shoe nails are for
+the best gun-barrels. I overhear the Manyuema telling each other that I
+am the "good one." I have no slaves, and I owe this character to the
+propagation of a good name by the slaves of Zanzibar, who are anything
+but good themselves. I have seen slaves belonging to the seven men now
+with us slap the cheeks of grown men who had offered food for sale; it
+was done in sheer wantonness, till I threatened to thrash them if I saw
+it again; but out of my sight they did it still, and when I complained
+to the masters they confessed that all the mischief was done by slaves;
+for the Manyuema, on being insulted, lose temper and use their spears on
+the nasty curs, and then vengeance is taken with guns. Free men behave
+better than slaves; the bondmen are not responsible. The Manyuema are
+far more beautiful than either the bond or free of Zanzibar; I overhear
+the remark often, "If we had Manyuema wives what beautiful children we
+should beget." The men are usually handsome, and many of the women are
+very pretty; hands, feet, limbs, and forms perfect in shape and the
+colour light-brown, but the orifices of the nose are widened by
+snuff-takers, who ram it up as far as they can with the finger and
+thumb: the teeth are not filed, except a small space between the two
+upper front teeth.
+
+_5th March, 1871._--We heard to-day that Mohamad's people passed us on
+the west, with much ivory. I lose thus twenty copper rings I was to take
+from them, and all the notes they were to make for me of the rivers they
+crossed.
+
+_6th March, 1871._--Passed through very large villages, with many forges
+in active work; some men followed us, as if to fight, but we got them to
+turn peaceably: we don't know who are enemies, so many have been
+maltreated and had relatives killed. The rain of yesterday made the
+paths so slippery that the feet of all were sorely fatigued, and on
+coming to Manyara's, I resolved to rest on 7th near Mount Kimazi. I gave
+a cloth and beads in lieu of a fine fat goat from the chief, a clever,
+good man.
+
+_9th March, 1871._--We marched about five hours across a grassy plain
+without trees--buga or prairie. The torrid sun, nearly vertical, sent
+his fierce rays down, and fatigued us all: we crossed two Sokoy� streams
+by bridges, and slept at a village on a ridge of woodland overlooking
+Kasonga. After two hours this morning, we came to villages of this
+chief, and at one were welcomed by the Safari of Salem Mokadam, and I
+was given a house. Kasonga is a very fine young man, with European
+features, and "very clever and good." He is clever, and is pronounced
+good, because he eagerly joins the Arabs in marauding! Seeing the
+advantage of firearms, he has bought four muskets. Mohamad's people were
+led by his, and spent all their copper for some fifty frasilahs of good
+ivory. From this party men have been sent over Lualaba, and about fifty
+frasilahs obtained: all praise Kasonga. We were now only six miles from
+Lualaba, and yet south of Mamohela; this great river, in fact, makes a
+second great sweep to the west of some 130 miles, and there are at least
+30' of southing; but now it comes rolling majestically to the north, and
+again makes even easting. It is a mighty stream, with many islands in
+it, and is never wadeable at any point or at any time of the year.
+
+_10th March, 1871._--Mohamad's people are said to have gone to Luapanya,
+a powerful chief, who told them they were to buy all their ivory from
+him: he had not enough, and they wanted to go on to a people who have
+ivory door-posts; but he said, "You shall go neither forward nor
+backwards, but remain here," and he then called an immense body of
+archers, and said, "You must fight these." The consequence was they
+killed Luapanya and many of his people, called Bahika, then crossed a
+very large river, the Morombya or Morombw�, and again the Pembo River,
+but don't seem to have gone very far north. I wished to go from this in
+canoes, but Kasonga has none, so I must tramp for five or six days to
+Moen� Lualaba to buy one, if I have credit with Abed.
+
+_11th March, 1871._--I had a long, fierce oration from Amur, in which I
+was told again and again that I should be killed and eaten--the people
+wanted a "white one" to eat! I needed 200 guns; and "must not go to
+die." I told him that I was thankful for advice, if given by one who had
+knowledge, but his vehement threats were dreams of one who had never
+gone anywhere, but sent his slaves to kill people. He was only
+frightening my people, and doing me an injury. I told him that Baker had
+only twelve people, and came near to this: to this he replied "Were the
+people cannibals?" &c. &c.
+
+I left this noisy demagogue, after saying I thanked him for his
+warnings, but saw he knew not what he was saying. The traders from Ujiji
+are simply marauders, and their people worse than themselves, they
+thirst for blood more than for ivory, each longs to be able to tell a
+tale of blood, and the Manyuema are an easy prey. Hassani assaulted the
+people at Moen� Lualaba's, and now they keep to the other bank, and I am
+forced to bargain with Kasonga for a canoe, and he sends to a friend for
+one to be seen on the 13th. This Hassani declared to me that he would
+not begin hostilities, but he began nothing else; the prospect of
+getting slaves overpowers all else, and blood flows in horrid streams.
+The Lord look on it! Hassani will have some tale to tell Mohamad
+Bogharib.
+
+[At the outset of his explorations Livingstone fancied that there were
+degrees in the sufferings of slaves, and that the horrors perpetrated by
+the Portuguese of Tette were unknown in the system of slave hunting
+which the Arabs pursue: we now see that a further acquaintance with the
+slave-trade of the Interior has restored the balance of infamy, and that
+the same tale of murder and destruction is common wherever the traffic
+extends, no matter by whom it is carried on.]
+
+_15th March, 1871._--Falsehood seems ingrained in their constitutions:
+no wonder that in all this region they have never tried to propagate
+Islamism; the natives soon learn to hate them, and slaving, as carried
+on by the Kilwans and Ujijians, is so bloody, as to prove an effectual
+barrier against proselytism.
+
+My men are not come back: I fear they are engaged in some broil. In
+confirmation of what I write, some of the party here assaulted a village
+of Kasonga's, killed three men and captured women and children; they
+pretended that they did not know them to be his people, but they did not
+return the captives.
+
+_20th March, 1871._--I am heartsore, and sick of human blood.
+
+_21st March, 1871._--Kasongo's brother's child died, and he asked me to
+remain to-day while he buried the dead, and he would give me a guide
+to-morrow; being rainy I stop willingly. Dugumb� is said to purpose
+going down the river to Kanagumb� River to build on the land Kanagumb�,
+which is a loop formed by the river, and is large. He is believed to
+possess great power of divination, even of killing unfaithful women.
+
+_22nd March, 1871._--I am detained another day by the sickness of one of
+the party. Very cold rain yesterday from the north-west. I hope to go
+to-morrow towards the Lakoni, or great market of this region.
+
+_23rd March, 1871._--Left Kasongo, who gave me a goat and a guide. The
+country is gently undulating, showing green slopes fringed with wood,
+with grass from four to six feet. We reached Katenga's, about five miles
+off. There are many villages, and people passed us carrying loads of
+provisions, and cassava, from the chitoka or market.
+
+_24th March, 1871._--Great rain in the night and morning, and sickness
+of the men prevented our march.
+
+_25th March, 1871._--Went to Mazimw�, 7-1/2 miles off.
+
+_26th March, 1871._--Went four miles and crossed the Kabwimaji; then a
+mile beyond Kahembai, which flows into the Kunda, and it into the
+Lualaba; the country is open, and low hills appear in the north. We met
+a party from the traders at Kasenga, chiefly Mater�ka's people under
+Salem and Syde bin Sultan; they had eighty-two captives, and say they
+fought ten days to secure them and two of the Malongwana, and two of the
+Banyamwezi. They had about twenty tusks, and carried one of their men
+who broke his leg in fighting; we shall be safe only when past the
+bloodshed and murder.
+
+_27th March, 1871._--We went along a ridge of land overhanging a fine
+valley of denudation, with well-cultivated hills in the distance (N.),
+where Hassani's feat of bloodshed was performed. There are many villages
+on the ridge, some rather tumbledown ones, which always indicate some
+misrule. Our march was about seven miles. A headman who went with us
+plagued another chief to give me a goat; I refused to take what was not
+given willingly, but the slaves secured it; and I threatened our
+companion, Kama, with dismissal from our party if he became a tool in
+slave hands. The arum is common.
+
+_28th March, 1871._--The Banian slaves are again trying compulsion--I
+don't know what for. They refused to take their bead rations, and made
+Chakanga spokesman: I could not listen to it, as he has been concocting
+a mutiny against me. It is excessively trying, and so many difficulties
+have been put in my way I doubt whether the Divine favour and will is on
+my side.
+
+We came six miles to-day, crossing many rivulets running to the Kunda,
+which also we crossed in a canoe; it is almost thirty yards wide and
+deep: afterwards, near the village where we slept, we crossed the Luja
+about twenty yards wide, going into the Kunda and Lualaba. I am greatly
+distressed because there is no law here; they probably mean to create a
+disturbance at Abed's place, to which we are near: the Lord look on it.
+
+_29th March, 1871._--Crossed the Liya, and next day the Moangoi, by two
+well-made wattle bridges at an island in its bed: it is twenty yards,
+and has a very strong current, which makes all the market people fear
+it. We then crossed the Molemb� in a canoe, which is fifteen yards, but
+swelled by rains and many rills. Came 7-1/2 miles to sleep at one of the
+outlying villages of Nyangw�: about sixty market people came past us
+from the Chitoka or marketplace, on the banks of Lualaba; they go
+thither at night, and come away about mid-day, having disposed of most of
+their goods by barter. The country is open, and dotted over with trees,
+chiefly a species of Bauhinia, that resists the annual grass burnings;
+there are trees along the watercourses, and many villages, each with a
+host of pigs. This region is low as compared with Tanganyika; about
+2000 feet above the sea.
+
+The headman's house, in which I was lodged, contained the housewife's
+little conveniences, in the shape of forty pots, dishes, baskets,
+knives, mats, all of which she removed to another house: I gave her four
+strings of beads, and go on to-morrow. Crossed the Kunda River and seven
+miles more brought us to Nya�gw�, where we found Abed and Hassani had
+erected their dwellings, and sent their people over Lualaba, and as far
+west as the Lo�ki or Lomam�. Abed said that my words against
+bloodshedding had stuck into him, and he had given orders to his people
+to give presents to the chiefs, but never fight unless actually
+attacked.
+
+_31st March, 1871._--I went down to take a good look at the Lualaba
+here. It is narrower than it is higher up, but still a mighty river, at
+least 3000 yards broad, and always deep: it can never be waded at any
+point, or at any time of the year; the people unhesitatingly declare
+that if any one tried to ford it, he would assuredly be lost. It has
+many large islands, and at these it is about 2000 yards or one mile. The
+banks are steep and deep: there is clay, and a yellow-clay schist in
+their structure; the other rivers, as the Luya and Kunda, have gravelly
+banks. The current is about two miles an hour away to the north.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[11] The epidemic here mentioned reached Zanzibar Island from the
+interior of Africa by way of the Masai caravan route and Pangani. Dr.
+Kirk says it again entered Africa from Zanzibar, and followed the
+course of the caravans to Ujiji and Manyuema.--ED.
+
+[12] The men give indisputable proof that his body was eaten by the
+Manyuema who lay in ambush.--ED.
+
+[13] Kanik� is a blue calico.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nya�gw� on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomam�.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding.
+
+
+_1st April, 1871._--The banks are well peopled, but one must see the
+gathering at the market, of about 3000, chiefly women, to judge of their
+numbers. They hold market one day, and then omit attendance here for
+three days, going to other markets at other points in the intervals. It
+is a great institution in Manyuema: numbers seem to inspire confidence,
+and they enforce justice for each other. As a rule, all prefer to buy
+and sell in the market, to doing business anywhere else; if one says,
+"Come, sell me that fowl or cloth," the reply is, "Come to the
+'Chitoka,' or marketplace."
+
+_2nd April, 1871._--To-day the market contained over a thousand people,
+carrying earthen pots and cassava, grass cloth, fishes, and fowls; they
+were alarmed at my coming among them and were ready to flee, many stood
+afar off in suspicion; some came from the other side of the river with
+their goods. To-morrow market is held up river.
+
+_3rd April, 1871._--I tried to secure a longitude by fixing a weight on
+the key of the watch, and so helping it on: I will try this in a quiet
+place to-morrow. The people all fear us, and they have good reason for
+it in the villainous conduct of many of the blackguard half-castes which
+alarms them: I cannot get a canoe, so I wait to see what will turn up.
+The river is said to overflow all its banks annually, as the Nile does
+further down. I sounded across yesterday. Near the bank it is 9 feet,
+the rest 15 feet, and one cast in the middle was 20 feet: between the
+islands 12 feet, and 9 feet again in shore: it is a mighty river truly.
+I took distances and altitudes alternately with a bullet for a weight on
+the key of the chronometer, taking successive altitudes of the sun and
+distances of the moon. Possibly the first and last altitudes may give
+the rate of going, and the frequent distances between may give
+approximate longitude.
+
+_4th April, 1871._--Moon, the fourth of the Arabs, will appear in three
+or four days. This will be a guide in ascertaining the day of observing
+the lunars, with the weight.
+
+The Arabs ask many questions about the Bible, and want to know how many
+prophets have appeared, and probably say that they believe in them all;
+while we believe all but reject Mohamad. It is easy to drive them into a
+corner by questioning, as they don't know whither the inquiries lead,
+and they are not offended when their knowledge is, as it were, admitted.
+When asked how many false prophets are known, they appeal to my
+knowledge, and evidently never heard of Balaam, the son of Beor, or of
+the 250 false prophets of Jezebel and Ahab, or of the many lying
+prophets referred to in the Bible.
+
+_6th April, 1871._--Ill from drinking two cups of very sweet malofu, or
+beer, made from bananas: I shall touch it no more.
+
+_7th April, 1871._--Made this ink with the seeds of a plant, called by
+the Arabs Zugifar�; it is known in India, and is used here by the
+Manyuema to dye virambos and ornament faces and heads.[14] I sent my
+people over to the other side to cut wood to build a house for me; the
+borrowed one has mud walls and floors, which are damp, foul, smelling,
+and unwholesome. I shall have grass walls, and grass and reeds on the
+floor of my own house; the free ventilation will keep it sweet. This is
+the season called Masika, the finishing rains, which we have in large
+quantities almost every night, and I could scarcely travel even if I had
+a canoe; still it is trying to be kept back by suspicion, and by the
+wickedness of the wicked.
+
+Some of the Arabs try to be kind, and send cooked food every day: Abed
+is the chief donor. I taught him to make a mosquito-curtain of thin
+printed calico, for he had endured the persecution of these insects
+helplessly, except by sleeping on a high stage, when they were unusually
+bad. The Manyuema often bring evil on themselves by being untrustworthy.
+For instance, I paid one to bring a large canoe to cross the Lualaba, he
+brought a small one, capable of carrying three only, and after wasting
+some hours we had to put off crossing till next day.
+
+_8th April, 1871._--Every headman of four or five huts is a mologhw�, or
+chief, and glories in being called so. There is no political cohesion.
+The Ujijian slavery is an accursed system; but it must be admitted that
+the Manyuema, too, have faults, the result of ignorance of other people:
+their isolation has made them as unconscious of danger in dealing with
+the cruel stranger, as little dogs in the presence of lions. Their
+refusal to sell or lend canoes for fear of blame by each other will be
+ended by the party of Dugumb�, which has ten headmen, taking them by
+force; they are unreasonable and bloody-minded towards each other: every
+Manyuema would like every other headman slain; they are subjected to
+bitter lessons and sore experience. Abed went over to Mologhw� Kahemb�
+and mixed blood with him; he was told that two large canoes were
+hollowed out, and nearly ready to be brought for sale; if this can be
+managed peaceably it is a great point gained, and I may get one at our
+Arabs' price, which may be three or four times the native price. There
+is no love lost among the three Arabs here.
+
+_9th April, 1871._--Cut wood for my house. The Lo�ki is said by slaves
+who have come thence to be much larger than the Lualaba, but on the
+return of Abed's people from the west we shall obtain better
+information.
+
+_10th April, 1871._--Chitoka, or market, to-day. I counted upwards of
+700 passing my door. With market women it seems to be a pleasure of life
+to haggle and joke, and laugh and cheat: many come eagerly, and retire
+with careworn faces; many are beautiful, and many old; all carry very
+heavy loads of dried cassava and earthen pots, which they dispose of
+very cheaply for palm-oil, fish, salt, pepper, and relishes for their
+food. The men appear in gaudy lambas, and carry little save their iron
+wares, fowls, grass cloth, and pigs.
+
+Bought the fish with the long snouts: very good eating.
+
+_12th April, 1871._--New moon last night; fourth Arab month: I am at a
+loss for the day of the month. My new house is finished; a great
+comfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin: bugs (Tapazi, or
+ticks), that follow wherever Arabs go, made me miserable, but the Arabs
+are insensible to them; Abed alone had a mosquito-curtain, and he never
+could praise it enough. One of his remarks is, "If slaves think you
+fear them, they will climb over you." I clothed mine for nothing, and
+ever after they have tried to ride roughshod over me, and mutiny on
+every occasion!
+
+_14th April, 1871._--Kahemb� came over, and promises to bring a canoe;
+but he is not to be trusted; he presented Abed with two slaves, and is
+full of fair promises about the canoe, which he sees I am anxious to
+get. They all think that my buying a canoe means carrying war to the
+left bank; and now my Banian slaves encourage the idea: "He does not
+wish slaves nor ivory," say they, "but a canoe, in order to kill
+Manyuema." Need it be wondered at that people, who had never heard of
+strangers or white men before I popped down among them, believed the
+slander? The slaves were aided in propagating the false accusation by
+the half-caste Ujijian slaves at the camp. Hassani fed them every day;
+and, seeing that he was a bigoted Moslem, they equalled him in prayers
+in his sitting-place seven or eight times a day! They were adepts at
+lying, and the first Manyuema words they learned were used to propagate
+falsehood.
+
+I have been writing part of a despatch, in case of meeting people from
+the French settlement on the Gaboon at Lo�ki, but the canoe affair is
+slow and tedious: the people think only of war: they are a bloody-minded
+race.
+
+_15th April, 1871._--The Manyuema tribe, called Bagenya, occupy the left
+bank, opposite Nya�gw�. A spring of brine rises in the bed of a river,
+named Lofubu, and this the Bayenga inspissate by boiling, and sell the
+salt at market. The Lomam� is about ten days west of Lualaba, and very
+large; the confluence of Lomam�, or Lo�ki, is about six days down below
+Nya�gw� by canoe; the river Nyanz� is still less distant.
+
+_16th April, 1871._--On the Nyanz� stands the principal town and market
+of the chief, Zurampela. Rashid visited him, and got two slaves on
+promising to bring a war-party from Abed against Chipang�, who by
+similar means obtained the help of Salem Mokadam to secure eighty-two
+captives: Rashid will leave this as soon as possible, sell the slaves,
+and leave Zurampela to find out the fraud! This deceit, which is an
+average specimen of the beginning of half-caste dealings, vitiates his
+evidence of a specimen of cannibalism which he witnessed; but it was
+after a fight that the victims were cut up, and this agrees with the
+fact that the Manyuema eat only those who are killed in war. Some have
+averred that captives, too, are eaten, and a slave is bought with a goat
+to be eaten; but this I very strongly doubt.
+
+_17th April, 1871._--Rainy.
+
+_18th April, 1871._--I found that the Lepidosiren is brought to market
+in pots with water in them, also white ants roasted, and the large
+snail, achetina, and a common snail: the Lepidosiren is called
+"_semb�_."
+
+Abed went a long way to examine a canoe, but it was still further, and
+he turned back.
+
+_19th April, 1871._--Dreary waiting, but Abed proposes to join and trade
+along with me: this will render our party stronger, and he will not
+shoot people in my company; we shall hear Katomba's people's story too.
+
+_20th April, 1871._--Katomba a chief was to visit us yesterday, but
+failed, probably through fear.
+
+The chief Mokandira says that Lo�ki is small where it joins Lualaba, but
+another, which they call Lomam�, is very much larger, and joins Lualaba
+too: rapids are reported on it.
+
+_21st April, 1871._--A common salutation reminds me of the Bechuana's "U
+le hatsi" (thou art on earth); "Ua tala" (thou lookest); "Ua boka," or
+byoka (thou awakest); "U ri ho" (thou art here); "U li koni" (thou art
+here)--about pure "Sichuana," and "Nya," No, is identical. The men here
+deny that cannibalism is common: they eat only those killed in war, and,
+it seems, in revenge, for, said Mokandira, "the meat is not nice; it
+makes one dream of the dead man." Some west of Lualaba eat even those
+bought for the purpose of a feast; but I am not quite positive on this
+point: all agree in saying that human flesh is saltish, and needs but
+little condiment. And yet they are a fine-looking race; I would back a
+company of Manyuema men to be far superior in shape of head and
+generally in physical form too against the whole Anthropological
+Society. Many of the women are very light-coloured and very pretty; they
+dress in a kilt of many folds of gaudy lambas.
+
+_22nd April, 1871._--In Manyuema, here Kusi, Kunzi, is north; Mhuru,
+south; Nkanda, west, or other side Lualaba; Mazimba, east. The people
+are sometimes confused in name by the directions; thus Bankanda is only
+"the other side folk." The Bagenya Chimburu came to visit me, but I did
+not see him, nor did I know Moen� Nya�gw� till too late to do him
+honour; in fact, every effort was made to keep me in the dark while the
+slavers of Ujiji made all smooth for themselves to get canoes. All
+chiefs claim the privilege of shaking hands, that is, they touch the
+hand held out with their palm, then clap two hands together, then touch
+again, and clap again, and the ceremony concludes: this frequency of
+shaking hands misled me when the great man came.
+
+_24th April, 1871._--Old feuds lead the Manyuema to entrap the traders
+to fight: they invite them to go to trade, and tell them that at such a
+village plenty of ivory lies; then when the trader goes with his people,
+word is sent that he is coming to fight, and he is met by enemies, who
+compel him to defend himself by their onslaught. We were nearly
+entrapped in this way by a chief pretending to guide us through the
+country near Basila�g�; he would have landed us in a fight, but we
+detected his drift, changed our course so as to mislead any messengers
+he might have sent, and dismissed him with some sharp words.
+
+Lake Kamolondo is about twenty-five miles broad. The Lufira at Katanga
+is a full bow-shot wide; it goes into Kamolondo. Chakomo is east of
+Lufira Junction. Kikonz� Kalanza is on the west of it, and Mkana, or the
+underground dwellings, still further west: some are only two days from
+Katanga. The Chorw� people are friendly. Kamolondo is about ten days
+distant from Katanga.
+
+_25th April, 1871._--News came that four men sent by Abed to buy ivory
+had been entrapped, and two killed. The rest sent for aid to punish the
+murderers, and Abed wished me to send my people to bring the remaining
+two men back. I declined; because, no matter what charges I gave, my
+Banian slaves would be sure to shed human blood. We can go nowhere but
+the people of the country ask us to kill their fellow-men, nor can they
+be induced to go to villages three miles off, because there, in all
+probability, live the murderers of fathers, uncles, or grandfathers--a
+dreadful state truly. The traders are as bloodthirsty every whit as the
+Manyuema, where no danger exists, but in most cases where the people can
+fight they are as civil as possible. At Moer� Mpanda's, the son of
+Casembe, Mohamad Bogharib left a debt of twenty-eight slaves and eight
+bars of copper, each seventy pounds, and did not dare to fire a shot
+because they saw they had met their match: here his headmen are said to
+have bound the headmen of villages till a ransom was paid in tusks! Had
+they only gone three days further to the Babisa, to whom Moene-mokaia's
+men went, they would have got fine ivory at two rings a tusk, while they
+had paid from ten to eighteen. Here it is as sad a tale to tell as was
+that of the Manganja scattered and peeled by the Waiyau agents of the
+Portuguese of T�tte. The good Lord look on it.
+
+_26th April, 1871._--Chitovu called nine slaves bought by Abed's people
+from the Kuss country, west of the Lualaba, and asked them about their
+tribes and country for me. One, with his upper front teeth extracted,
+was of the tribe Maloba, on the other side of the Lo�ki, another comes
+from the River Lombadzo, or Lombazo, which is west of Lo�ki (this may be
+another name for the Lomam�), the country is called Nanga, and the tribe
+No�go, chief Mpunzo. The Malobo tribe is under the chiefs Yunga and
+Lomadyo. Another toothless boy said that he came from the Lomam�: the
+upper teeth extracted seem to say that the tribe have cattle; the
+knocking out the teeth is in imitation of the animals they almost
+worship. No traders had ever visited them; this promises ivory to the
+present visitors: all that is now done with the ivory there is to make
+rude blowing horns and bracelets.
+
+_27th April, 1871._--Waiting wearily and anxiously; we cannot move
+people who are far off and make them come near with news. Even the
+owners of canoes say, "Yes, yes; we shall bring them," but do not stir;
+they doubt us, and my slaves increase the distrust by their lies to the
+Manyuema.
+
+_28th April, 1871._--Abed sent over Manyuema to buy slaves for him and
+got a pretty woman for 300 cowries and a hundred strings of beads; she
+can be sold again to an Arab for much more in ivory. Abed himself gave
+$130 for a woman-cook, and she fled to me when put in chains for some
+crime: I interceded, and she was loosed: I advised her not to offend
+again, because I could not beg for her twice.
+
+Hassani with ten slaves dug at the malachite mines of Katanga for three
+months, and gained a hundred frasilahs of copper, or 3500 lbs. We hear
+of a half-caste reaching the other side of Lomam�, probably from Congo
+or Ambriz, but the messengers had not seen him.
+
+_1st May, 1871._--Katomba's people arrived from the Babisa, where they
+sold all their copper at two rings for a tusk, and then found that
+abundance of ivory still remained: door-posts and house-pillars had been
+made of ivory which now was rotten. The people of Babisa kill elephants
+now and bring tusks by the dozen, till the traders get so many that in
+this case they carried them by three relays. They dress their hair like
+the Bashukulompo, plaited into upright basket helmets: no quarrel
+occurred, and great kindness was shown to the strangers. A river having
+very black water, the Nyenger�, flows into Lualaba from the west, and it
+becomes itself very large: another river or water, Shamikwa, falls into
+it from the south-west, and it becomes still larger: this is probably
+the Lomam�. A short-horned antelope is common.
+
+_3rd May, 1871._--Abed informs me that a canoe will come in five days.
+Word was sent after me by the traders south of us not to aid me, as I
+was sure to die where I was going: the wish is father to the thought!
+Abed was naturally very anxious to get first into the Babisa ivory
+market, yet he tried to secure a canoe for me before he went, but he was
+too eager, and a Manyuema man took advantage of his desire, and came
+over the river and said that he had one hollowed out, and he wanted
+goats and beads to hire people to drag it down to the water. Abed on my
+account advanced five goats, a thousand cowries, and many beads, and
+said that he would tell me what he wished in return: this was debt, but
+I was so anxious to get away I was content to take the canoe on any
+terms. However, it turned out that the matter on the part of the headman
+whom Abed trusted was all deception: he had no canoe at all, but knew of
+one belonging to another man, and wished to get Abed and me to send men
+to see it--in fact, to go with their guns, and he would manage to
+embroil them with the real owner, so that some old feud should be
+settled to his satisfaction. On finding that I declined to be led into
+his trap, he took a female slave to the owner, and on his refusal to
+sell the canoe for her, it came out that he had adopted a system of
+fraud to Abed. He had victimized Abed, who was naturally inclined to
+believe his false statements, and get off to the ivory market. His
+people came from the Kuss country in the west with sixteen tusks, and a
+great many slaves bought and not murdered for. The river is rising fast,
+and bringing down large quantities of aquatic grass, duckweed, &c. The
+water is a little darker in colour than at Cairo. People remove and
+build their huts on the higher forest lands adjacent. Many white birds
+(the paddy bird) appear, and one Ibis religiosa; they pass north.
+
+The Bakuss live near Lomam�; they were very civil and kind to the
+strangers, but refused passage into the country. At my suggestion, the
+effect of a musket-shot was shown on a goat: they thought it
+supernatural, looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to buy
+the charm that could draw lightning down. When it was afterwards
+attempted to force a path, they darted aside on seeing the Banyamwezi's
+followers putting the arrows into the bowstrings, but stood in mute
+amazement looking at the guns, which mowed them down in large numbers.
+They thought that muskets were the insignia of chieftainship. Their
+chiefs all go with a long straight staff of rattan, having a quantity of
+black medicine smeared on each end, and no weapons in their hands: they
+imagined that the guns were carried as insignia of the same kind; some,
+jeering in the south, called them big tobacco-pipes; they have no fear
+on seeing a gun levelled at them.
+
+They use large and very long spears very expertly in the long grass and
+forest of their country, and are terrible fellows among themselves, and
+when they become acquainted with firearms will be terrible to the
+strangers who now murder them. The Manyuema say truly, "If it were not
+for your guns, not one of you would ever return to your country." The
+Bakuss cultivate more than the southern Manyuema, especially Pennisetum
+and dura, or _Holeus sorghum;_ common coffee is abundant, and they use
+it, highly scented with vanilla, which must be fertilized by insects;
+they hand round cups of it after meals. Pineapples too are abundant.
+They bathe regularly twice a day: their houses are of two storeys. The
+women have rather compressed heads, but very pleasant countenances; and
+ancient Egyptian, round, wide-awake eyes. Their numbers are prodigious;
+the country literally swarms with people, and a chief's town extends
+upwards of a mile. But little of the primeval forest remains. Many large
+pools of standing water have to be crossed, but markets are held every
+eight or ten miles from each other, and to these the people come from
+far, for the market is as great an institution as shopping is with the
+civilized. Illicit intercourse is punished by the whole of the
+offender's family being enslaved.
+
+The Bakuss smelt copper from the ore and sell it very cheaply to the
+traders for beads. The project of going in canoes now appeared to the
+half-castes so plausible, that they all tried to get the Bagenya on the
+west bank to lend them, and all went over to mix blood and make friends
+with the owners, then all slandered me as not to be trusted, as they
+their blood-relations were; and my slaves mutinied and would go no
+further. They mutinied three times here, and Hassani harboured them till
+I told him that, if an English officer harboured an Arab slave he would
+be compelled by the Consul to refund the price, and I certainly would
+not let him escape; this frightened him; but I was at the mercy of
+slaves who had no honour, and no interest in going into danger.
+
+_16th May, 1871._--Abed gave me a frasilah of Matunda beads, and I
+returned fourteen fathoms of fine American sheeting, but it was an
+obligation to get beads from one whose wealth depended on exchanging
+beads for ivory.
+
+_16th May, 1871._--At least 3000 people at market to-day, and my going
+among them has taken away the fear engendered by the slanders of slaves
+and traders, for all are pleased to tell me the names of the fishes and
+other things. Lepidosirens are caught by the neck and lifted out of the
+pot to show their fatness. Camwood ground and made into flat cakes for
+sale and earthen balls, such as are eaten in the disease safura or
+earth-eating, are offered and there is quite a roar of voices in the
+multitude, haggling. It was pleasant to be among them compared to being
+with the slaves, who were all eager to go back to Zanzibar: some told me
+that they were slaves, and required a free man to thrash them, and
+proposed to go back to Ujiji for one. I saw no hope of getting on with
+them, and anxiously longed for the arrival of Dugumb�; and at last Abed
+overheard them plotting my destruction. "If forced to go on, they would
+watch till the first difficulty arose with the Manyuema, then fire off
+their guns, run away, and as I could not run as fast as they, leave me
+to perish." Abed overheard them speaking loudly, and advised me strongly
+not to trust myself to them any more, as they would be sure to cause my
+death. He was all along a sincere friend, and I could not but take his
+words as well-meant and true.
+
+_18th May, 1871._--Abed gave me 200 cowries and some green beads. I was
+at the point of disarming my slaves and driving them away, when they
+relented, and professed to be willing to go anywhere; so, being eager to
+finish my geographical work, I said I would run the risk of their
+desertion, and gave beads to buy provisions for a start north. I cannot
+state how much I was worried by these wretched slaves, who did much to
+annoy me, with the sympathy of all the slaving crew. When baffled by
+untoward circumstances the bowels plague me too, and discharges of blood
+relieve the headache, and are as safety-valves to the system. I was
+nearly persuaded to allow Mr. Syme to operate on me when last in
+England, but an old friend told me that his own father had been operated
+on by the famous John Hunter, and died in consequence at the early age
+of forty. His advice saved me, for this complaint has been my
+safety-valve.
+
+The Zingifur�, or red pigment, is said to be a cure for itch common
+among both natives and Arab slaves and Arab children.
+
+_20th May, 1871._--Abed called Kalonga the headman, who beguiled him as
+I soon found, and delivered the canoe he had bought formally to me, and
+went off down the Lualaba on foot to buy the Babisa ivory. I was to
+follow in the canoe and wait for him in the River Lu�ra, but soon I
+ascertained that the canoe was still in the forest, and did not belong
+to Kalonga. On demanding back the price he said, "Let Abed come and I
+will give it to him;" then when I sent to force him to give up the
+goods, all his village fled into the forest: I now tried to buy one
+myself from the Bagenya, but there was no chance; so long as the
+half-caste traders needed any they got all--nine large canoes, and I
+could not secure one.
+
+_24th May, 1871._--The market is a busy scene--everyone is in dead
+earnest--little time is lost in friendly greetings; vendors of fish run
+about with potsherds full of snails or small fishes or young _Clarias
+capensis_ smoke-dried and spitted on twigs, or other relishes to
+exchange for cassava roots dried after being steeped about three days in
+water--potatoes, vegetables, or grain, bananas, flour, palm-oil, fowls,
+salt, pepper; each is intensely eager to barter food for relishes, and
+makes strong assertions as to the goodness or badness of everything: the
+sweat stands in beads on their faces--cocks crow briskly, even when
+slung over the shoulder with their heads hanging down, and pigs squeal.
+Iron knobs, drawn out at each end to show the goodness of the metal, are
+exchanged for cloth of the Muab� palm. They have a large funnel of
+basket-work below the vessel holding the wares, and slip the goods down
+if they are not to be seen. They deal fairly, and when differences arise
+they are easily settled by the men interfering or pointing to me: they
+appeal to each other, and have a strong sense of natural justice. With
+so much food changing hands amongst the three thousand attendants much
+benefit is derived; some come from twenty to twenty-five miles. The men
+flaunt about in gaudy-coloured lambas of many folded kilts--the women
+work hardest--the potters slap and ring their earthenware all round, to
+show that there is not a single flaw in them. I bought two finely shaped
+earthen bottles of porous earthenware, to hold a gallon each, for one
+string of beads, the women carry huge loads of them in their funnels
+above the baskets, strapped to the shoulders and forehead, and their
+hands are full besides; the roundness of the vessels is wonderful,
+seeing no machine is used: no slaves could be induced to carry half as
+much as they do willingly. It is a scene of the finest natural acting
+imaginable. The eagerness with which all sorts of assertions are
+made--the eager earnestness with which apparently all creation, above,
+around, and beneath, is called on to attest the truth of what they
+allege--and then the intense surprise and withering scorn cast on those
+who despise their goods: but they show no concern when the buyers turn
+up their noses at them. Little girls run about selling cups of water for
+a few small fishes to the half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it was
+an amusing scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off their
+glib tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to need
+interpretation.
+
+_27th May, 1871._--Hassani told me that since he had come, no Manyuema
+had ever presented him with a single mouthful of food, not even a potato
+or banana, and he had made many presents. Going from him into the market
+I noticed that one man presented a few small fishes, another a sweet
+potato and a piece of cassava, and a third two small fishes, but the
+Manyuema are not a liberal people. Old men and women who remained in the
+half-deserted villages we passed through in coming north, often ran
+forth to present me with bananas, but it seemed through fear; when I sat
+down and ate the bananas they brought beer of bananas, and I paid for
+all. A stranger in the market had ten human under jaw-bones hung by a
+string over his shoulder: on inquiry he professed to have killed and
+eaten the owners, and showed with his knife how he cut up his victim.
+When I expressed disgust he and others laughed. I see new faces every
+market-day. Two nice girls were trying to sell their venture, which was
+roasted white ants, called "Gumb�."
+
+_30th May, 1871._--The river fell four inches during the last four days;
+the colour is very dark brown, and large quantities of aquatic plants
+and trees float down. Mologhw�, or chief Ndambo, came and mixed blood
+with the intensely bigoted Moslem, Hassani: this is to secure the nine
+canoes. He next went over to have more palaver about them, and they do
+not hesitate to play me false by detraction. The Manyuema, too, are
+untruthful, but very honest; we never lose an article by them: fowls and
+goats are untouched, and if a fowl is lost, we know that it has been
+stolen by an Arab slave. When with Mohamad Bogharib, we had all to keep
+our fowls at the Manyuema villages to prevent them being stolen by our
+own slaves, and it is so here. Hassani denies complicity with them, but
+it is quite apparent that he and others encourage them in mutiny.
+
+_5th June, 1871._--The river rose again six inches and fell three. Rain
+nearly ceased, and large masses of fleecy clouds float down here from
+the north-west, with accompanying cold.
+
+_7th June, 1871._--I fear that I must march on foot, but the mud is
+forbidding.
+
+_11th June, 1871._--New moon last night, and I believe Dugumb� will
+leave Kasonga's to-day. River down three inches.
+
+_14th June, 1871._--Hassani got nine canoes, and put sixty-three persons
+in three; I cannot get one. Dugumb� reported near, but detained by his
+divination, at which he is an expert; hence his native name is
+"Molembalemba"--"writer, writing."
+
+_16th June, 1871._--The high winds and drying of soap and sugar tell
+that the rains are now over in this part.
+
+_18th June, 1871._--Dugumb� arrived, but passed to Moen� Nya�gw�'s, and
+found that provisions were so scarce, and dear there, as compared with
+our market, that he was fain to come back to us. He has a large party
+and 500 guns. He is determined to go into new fields of trade, and has
+all his family with him, and intends to remain six or seven years,
+sending regularly to Ujiji for supplies of goods.
+
+_20th June, 1871._--Two of Dugumb�'s party brought presents of four
+large fundos of beads each. All know that my goods are unrighteously
+detained by Shereef and they show me kindness, which I return by some
+fine calico which I have. Among the first words Dugumb� said to me were,
+"Why your own slaves are your greatest enemies: I will buy you a canoe,
+but the Banian slaves' slanders have put all the Manyuema against you."
+I knew that this was true, and that they were conscious of the sympathy
+of the Ujijian traders, who hate to have me here.
+
+_24th June, 1871._--Hassani's canoe party in the river were foiled by
+narrows, after they had gone down four days. Rocks jut out on both
+sides, not opposite, but alternate to each other; and the vast mass of
+water of the great river jammed in, rushes round one promontory on to
+another, and a frightful whirlpool is formed in which the first canoe
+went and was overturned, and five lives lost. Had I been there, mine
+would have been the first canoe, for the traders would have made it a
+point of honour to give me the precedence (although actually to make a
+feeler of me), while they looked on in safety. The men in charge of
+Hassani's canoes were so frightened by this accident that they at once
+resolved to return, though they had arrived in the country of the ivory:
+they never looked to see whether the canoes could be dragged past the
+narrows, as anyone else would have done. No better luck could be
+expected after all their fraud and duplicity in getting the canoes; no
+harm lay in obtaining them, but why try to prevent me getting one?
+
+_27th June, 1871._--In answer to my prayers for preservation, I was
+prevented going down to the narrows, formed by a dyke of mountains
+cutting across country, and jutting a little ajar, which makes the water
+in an enormous mass wheel round behind it helplessly, and if the canoes
+reach the rock against which the water dashes, they are almost certainly
+overturned. As this same dyke probably cuts across country to Lomam�, my
+plan of going to the confluence and then up won't do, for I should have
+to go up rapids there. Again, I was prevented from going down Luamo, and
+on the north of its confluence another cataract mars navigation in the
+Lualaba, and my safety is thereby secured. We don't always know the
+dangers that we are guided past.
+
+_28th June, 1871._--The river has fallen two feet: dark brown water, and
+still much wreck floating down.
+
+Eight villages are in flames, set fire to by a slave of Syde bin Habib,
+called Manilla, who thus shows his blood friends of the Bagenya how well
+he can fight against the Mohombo, whose country the Bagenya want! The
+stragglers of this camp are over on the other side helping Manilla, and
+catching fugitives and goats. The Bagenya are fishermen by taste and
+profession, and sell the produce of their nets and weirs to those who
+cultivate the soil, at the different markets. Manilla's foray is for an
+alleged debt of three slaves, and ten villages are burned.
+
+_30th June, 1871._--Hassani pretended that he was not aware of Manilla's
+foray, and when I denounced it to Manilla himself, he showed that he was
+a slave, by cringing and saying nothing except something about the debt
+of three slaves.
+
+_1st July, 1871._--I made known my plan to Dugumb�, which was to go
+west with his men to Lomam�, then by his aid buy a canoe and go up Lake
+Lincoln to Katanga and the fountains, examine the inhabited caves, and
+return here, if he would let his people bring me goods from Ujiji; he
+again referred to all the people being poisoned in mind against me, but
+was ready to do everything in his power for my success. My own people
+persuaded the Bagenya not to sell a canoe: Hassani knows it all, but
+swears that he did not join in the slander, and even points up to Heaven
+in attestation of innocence of all, even of Manilla's foray. Mohamadans
+are certainly famous as liars, and the falsehood of Mohamad has been
+transmitted to his followers in a measure unknown in other religions.
+
+_2nd July, 1871._--The upper stratum of clouds is from the north-west,
+the lower from the south-east; when they mix or change places the
+temperature is much lowered, and fever ensues. The air evidently comes
+from the Atlantic, over the low swampy lands of the West Coast. Morning
+fogs show that the river is warmer than the air.
+
+_4th July, 1871._--Hassani off down river in high dudgeon at the cowards
+who turned after reaching the ivory country. He leaves them here and
+goes himself, entirely on land. I gave him hints to report himself and
+me to Baker, should he meet any of his headmen.
+
+_5th July, 1871._--The river has fallen three feet in all, that is one
+foot since 27th June.
+
+I offer Dugumb� $2000, or 400_l._, for ten men to replace the Banian
+slaves, and enable me to go up the Lomam� to Katanga and the underground
+dwellings, then return and go up by Tanganyika to Ujiji, and I added
+that I would give all the goods I had at Ujiji besides: he took a few
+days to consult with his associates.
+
+_6th July, 1871._--Mokandira, and other headmen, came with a present of
+a pig and a goat on my being about to depart west. I refused to receive
+them till my return, and protested against the slander of my wishing to
+kill people, which they all knew, but did not report to me: this refusal
+and protest will ring all over the country.
+
+_7th July, 1871._--I was annoyed by a woman frequently beating a slave
+near my house, but on my reproving her she came and apologized. I told
+her to speak softly to her slave, as she was now the only mother the
+girl had; the slave came from beyond Lomam�, and was evidently a lady in
+her own land; she calls her son Mologw�, or chief, because his father
+was a headman.
+
+Dugumb� advised my explaining my plan of procedure to the slaves, and he
+evidently thinks that I wish to carry it towards them with a high hand.
+I did explain all the exploration I intended to do: for instance, the
+fountains of Herodotus--beyond Katanga--Katanga itself, and the
+underground dwellings, and then return. They made no remarks, for they
+are evidently pleased to have me knuckling down to them; when pressed on
+the point of proceeding, they say they will only go with Dugumb�'s men
+to the Lomam�, and then return. River fallen three inches since the 5th.
+
+_10th July, 1871._--Manyuema children do not creep, as European children
+do, on their knees, but begin by putting forward one foot and using one
+knee. Generally a Manyuema child uses both feet and both hands, but
+never both knees: one Arab child did the same; he never crept, but got
+up on both feet, holding on till he could walk.
+
+New moon last night of seventh Arab month.
+
+_11th July, 1871._--I bought the different species of fish brought to
+market, in order to sketch eight of them, and compare them with those of
+the Nile lower down: most are the same as in Nyassa. A very active
+species of Glanis, of dark olive-brown, was not sketched, but a spotted
+one, armed with offensive spikes in the dorsal and pectoral fins, was
+taken. Sesamum seed is abundant just now and cakes are made of
+ground-nuts, as on the West Coast. Dugumb�'s horde tried to deal in the
+market in a domineering way. "I shall buy that," said one. "These are
+mine," said another; "no one must touch them but me," but the
+market-women taught them that they could not monopolize, but deal
+fairly. They are certainly clever traders, and keep each other in
+countenance, they stand by each other, and will not allow overreaching,
+and they give food astonishingly cheap: once in the market they have no
+fear.
+
+_12th and 13th July 1871._--The Banian slaves declared before Dugumb�
+that they would go to the River Lomam�, but no further: he spoke long to
+them, but they will not consent to go further. When told that they would
+thereby lose all their pay, they replied, "Yes, but not our lives," and
+they walked off from him muttering, which is insulting to one of his
+rank. I then added, "I have goods at Ujiji; I don't know how many, but
+they are considerable, take them all, and give me men to finish my work;
+if not enough, I will add to them, only do not let me be forced to
+return now I am so near the end of my undertaking." He said he would
+make a plan in conjunction with his associates, and report to me.
+
+_14th July, 1871._--I am distressed and perplexed what to do so as not
+to be foiled, but all seems against me.
+
+_15th July, 1871._--The reports of guns on the other side of the Lualaba
+all the morning tell of the people of Dugumb� murdering those of Kimburu
+and others who mixed blood with Manilla. "Manilla is a slave, and how
+dares he to mix blood with chiefs who ought only to make friends with
+free men like us"--this is their complaint. Kimburu gave Manilla three
+slaves, and he sacked ten villages in token of friendship; he proposed
+to give Dugumb� nine slaves in the same operation, but Dugumb�'s people
+destroy his villages, and shoot and make his people captives to punish
+Manilla; to make an impression, in fact, in the country that they alone
+are to be dealt with--"make friends with us, and not with Manilla or
+anyone else"--such is what they insist upon.
+
+About 1500 people came to market, though many villages of those that
+usually come from the other side were now in flames, and every now and
+then a number of shots were fired on the fugitives.
+
+It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the market I saw Adie and
+Manilla, and three of the men who had lately come with Dugumb�. I was
+surprised to see these three with their guns, and felt inclined to
+reprove them, as one of my men did, for bringing weapons into the
+market, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being very hot,
+I was walking away to go out of the market, when I saw one of the
+fellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before I had got
+thirty yards out, the discharge of two guns in the middle of the crowd
+told me that slaughter had begun: crowds dashed off from the place, and
+threw down their wares in confusion, and ran. At the same time that the
+three opened fire on the mass of people near the upper end of the
+marketplace volleys were discharged from a party down near the creek on
+the panic-stricken women, who dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty or
+more, were jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in the
+terror that seized all. The canoes were not to be got out, for the creek
+was too small for so many; men and women, wounded by the balls, poured
+into them, and leaped and scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long
+line of heads in the river showed that great numbers struck out for an
+island a full mile off: in going towards it they had to put the left
+shoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if they had struck
+away diagonally to the opposite bank, the current would have aided them,
+and, though nearly three miles off, some would have gained land: as it
+was, the heads above water showed the long line of those that would
+inevitably perish.
+
+Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and perishing.
+Some of the long line of heads disappeared quietly; whilst other poor
+creatures threw their arms high, as if appealing to the great Father
+above, and sank. One canoe took in as many as it could hold, and all
+paddled with hands and arms: three canoes, got out in haste, picked up
+sinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared. One man
+in a long canoe, which could have held forty or fifty, had clearly lost
+his head; he had been out in the stream before the massacre began, and
+now paddled up the river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning.
+By-and-bye all the heads disappeared; some had turned down stream
+towards the bank, and escaped. Dugumb� put people into one of the
+deserted vessels to save those in the water, and saved twenty-one, but
+one woman refused to be taken on board from thinking that she was to be
+made a slave of; she preferred the chance of life by swimming, to the
+lot of a slave: the Bagenya women are expert in the water, as they are
+accustomed to dive for oysters, and those who went down stream may have
+escaped, but the Arabs themselves estimated the loss of life at between
+330 and 400 souls. The shooting-party near the canoes were so reckless,
+they killed two of their own people; and a Banyamwezi follower, who got
+into a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water, went down, then
+came up again, and down to rise no more.
+
+My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumb� protested
+against my getting into a blood-feud, and I was thankful afterwards that
+I took his advice. Two wretched Moslems asserted "that the firing was
+done by the people of the English;" I asked one of them why he lied so,
+and he could utter no excuse: no other falsehood came to his aid as he
+stood abashed, before me, and so telling him not to tell palpable
+falsehoods, I left him gaping.
+
+After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Tagamoio, who was
+the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on the people there and fire
+their villages. As I write I hear the loud wails on the left bank over
+those who are there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the
+depths of Lualaba. Oh, let Thy kingdom come! No one will ever know the
+exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning, it gave me the
+impression of being in Hell. All the slaves in the camp rushed at the
+fugitives on land, and plundered them: women were for hours collecting
+and carrying loads of what had been thrown down in terror.
+
+Some escaped to me, and were protected: Dugumb� saved twenty-one, and
+of his own accord liberated them, they were brought to me, and
+remained over night near my house. One woman of the saved had a
+musket-ball through the thigh, another in the arm. I sent men with our
+flag to save some, for without a flag they might have been victims,
+for Tagamoio's people were shooting right and left like fiends. I
+counted twelve villages burning this morning. I asked the question of
+Dugumb� and others, "Now for what is all this murder?" All blamed
+Manilla as its cause, and in one sense he was the cause; but it is
+hardly credible that they repeat it is in order to be avenged on
+Manilla for making friends with headmen, he being a slave. I cannot
+believe it fully. The wish to make an impression in the country as to
+the importance and greatness of the new comers was the most potent
+motive; but it was terrible that the murdering of so many should be
+contemplated at all. It made me sick at heart. Who could accompany the
+people of Dugumb� and Tagamoio to Lomam� and be free from
+blood-guiltiness?
+
+I proposed to Dugumb� to catch the murderers, and hang them up in the
+marketplace, as our protest against the bloody deeds before the
+Manyuema. If, as he and others added, the massacre was committed by
+Manilla's people, he would have consented; but it was done by
+Tagamoio's people, and others of this party, headed by Dugumb�. This
+slaughter was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we have always heard
+that women coming to or from market have never been known to be
+molested: even when two districts are engaged in actual hostilities,
+"the women," say they, "pass among us to market unmolested," nor has one
+ever been known to be plundered by the men. These Nigger Moslems are
+inferior to the Manyuema in justice and right. The people under Hassani
+began the superwickedness of capture and pillage of all
+indiscriminately. Dugumb� promised to send over men to order Tagamoio's
+men to cease firing and burning villages; they remained over among the
+ruins, feasting on goats and fowls all night, and next day (16th)
+continued their infamous work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed.
+
+_16th July, 1871._--I restored upwards of thirty of the rescued to their
+friends: Dugumb� seemed to act in good faith, and kept none of them; it
+was his own free will that guided him. Women are delivered to their
+husbands, and about thirty-three canoes left in the creek are to be kept
+for the owners too.
+
+12 A.M.--Shooting still going on on the other side, and many captives
+caught. At 1 P.M. Tagamoio's people began to cross over in canoes,
+beating their drums, firing their guns, and shouting, as if to say, "See
+the conquering heroes come;" they are answered by the women of Dugumba's
+camp lullilooing, and friends then fire off their guns in joy. I count
+seventeen villages in flames, and the smoke goes straight up and forms
+clouds at the top of the pillar, showing great heat evolved, for the
+houses are full of carefully-prepared firewood. Dugumb� denies having
+sent Tagamoio on this foray, and Tagamoio repeats that he went to punish
+the friends made by Manilla, who, being a slave, had no right to make
+war and burn villages, that could only be done by free men. Manilla
+confesses to me privately that he did wrong in that, and loses all his
+beads and many friends in consequence.
+
+2 P.M.--An old man, called Kabobo, came for his old wife; I asked her if
+this were her husband, she went to him, and put her arm lovingly around
+him, and said "Yes." I gave her five strings of beads to buy food, all
+her stores being destroyed with her house; she bowed down, and put her
+forehead to the ground as thanks, and old Kabobo did the same: the tears
+stood in her eyes as she went off. Tagamoio caught 17 women, and other
+Arabs of his party, 27; dead by gunshot, 25. The heads of two headmen
+were brought over to be redeemed by their friends with slaves.
+
+3 P.M.--Many of the headmen who have been burned out by the foray came
+over to me, and begged me to come back with them, and appoint new
+localities for them to settle in again, but I told them that I was so
+ashamed of the company in which I found myself, that I could scarcely
+look the Manyuema in the face. They had believed that I wished to kill
+them--what did they think now? I could not remain among bloody
+companions, and would flee away, I said, but they begged me hard not to
+leave until they were again settled.
+
+The open murder perpetrated on hundreds of unsuspecting women fills me
+with unspeakable horror: I cannot think of going anywhere with the
+Tagamoio crew; I must either go down or up Lualaba, whichever the Banian
+slaves choose.
+
+4 P.M.--Dugumb� saw that by killing the market people he had committed a
+great error, and speedily got the chiefs who had come over to me to meet
+him at his house, and forthwith mix blood: they were in bad case. I
+could not remain to see to their protection, and Dugumb�, being the best
+of the whole horde, I advised them to make friends, and then appeal to
+him as able to restrain to some extent his infamous underlings. One
+chief asked to have his wife and daughter restored to him first, but
+generally they were cowed, and the fear of death was on them. Dugumb�
+said to me, "I shall do my utmost to get all the captives, but he must
+make friends now, in order that the market may not be given up." Blood
+was mixed, and an essential condition was, "You must give us chitoka,"
+or market. He and most others saw that in theoretically punishing
+Manilla, they had slaughtered the very best friends that strangers had.
+The Banian slaves openly declare that they will go only to Lomam�, and
+no further. Whatever the Ujijian slavers may pretend, they all hate to
+have me as a witness of their cold-blooded atrocities. The Banian slaves
+would like to go with Tagamoio, and share in his rapine and get slaves.
+I tried to go down Lualaba, then up it, and west, but with bloodhounds
+it is out of the question. I see nothing for it but to go back to Ujiji
+for other men, though it will throw me out of the chance of discovering
+the fourth great Lake in the Lualaba line of drainage, and other things
+of great value.
+
+At last I said that I would start for Ujiji, in three days, on foot. I
+wished to speak to Tagamoio about the captive relations of the chiefs,
+but he always ran away when he saw me coming.
+
+_17th July, 1871._--All the rest of Dugumb�'s party offered me a share
+of every kind of goods they had, and pressed me not to be ashamed to
+tell them what I needed. I declined everything save a little gunpowder,
+but they all made presents of beads, and I was glad to return
+equivalents in cloth. It is a sore affliction, at least forty-five days
+in a straight line--equal to 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings
+600 English miles, and all after feeding and clothing the Banian slaves
+for twenty-one months! But it is for the best though; if I do not trust
+to the riffraff of Ujiji, I must wait for other men at least ten months
+there. With help from above I shall yet go through Rua, see the
+underground excavations first, then on to Katanga, and the four ancient
+fountains eight days beyond, and after that Lake Lincoln.
+
+_18th July, 1871._--The murderous assault on the market people felt
+to me like Gehenna, without the fire and brimstone; but the heat was
+oppressive, and the firearms pouring their iron bullets on the
+fugitives, was not an inapt representative of burning in the bottomless
+pit.
+
+The terrible scenes of man's inhumanity to man brought on severe
+headache, which might have been serious had it not been relieved by a
+copious discharge of blood; I was laid up all yesterday afternoon, with
+the depression the bloodshed made,--it filled me with unspeakable
+horror. "Don't go away," say the Manyuema chiefs to me; but I cannot
+stay here in agony.
+
+_19th July, 1871._--Dugumb� sent me a fine goat, a maneh of gunpowder, a
+maneh of fine blue beads, and 230 cowries, to buy provisions in the way.
+I proposed to leave a doti Merikano and one of Kanik� to buy specimens
+of workmanship. He sent me two very fine large Manyuema swords, and two
+equally fine spears, and said that I must not leave anything; he would
+buy others with his own goods, and divide them equally with me: he is
+very friendly.
+
+River fallen 4-1/2 feet since the 5th ult.
+
+A few market people appear to-day, formerly they came in crowds: a very
+few from the west bank bring salt to buy back the baskets from the camp
+slaves, which they threw away in panic, others carried a little food for
+sale, about 200 in all, chiefly those who have not lost relatives: one
+very beautiful woman had a gunshot wound in her upper arm tied round
+with leaves. Seven canoes came instead of fifty; but they have great
+tenacity and hopefulness, an old established custom has great charms for
+them, and the market will again be attended if no fresh outrage is
+committed. No canoes now come into the creek of death, but land above,
+at Ntambw�'s village: this creek, at the bottom of the long gentle slope
+on which the market was held, probably led to its selection.
+
+A young Manyuema man worked for one of Dugumb�'s people preparing a
+space to build on; when tired, he refused to commence to dig a pit, and
+was struck on the loins with an axe, and soon died: he was drawn out of
+the way, and his relations came, wailed over him, and buried him: they
+are too much awed to complain to Dugumb�!!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusiz�. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyemb� with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of
+    game.--Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley.
+    Thankfulness at reaching Unyatiyemb�.
+
+
+_20th July, 1871._--I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumb�'s people came to
+say good bye, and convoy me a little way. I made a short march, for
+being long inactive it is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it
+is then difficult to get over the effects.
+
+_21st July, 1871._--One of the slaves was sick, and the rest falsely
+reported him to be seriously ill, to give them time to negotiate for
+women with whom they had cohabited: Dugumb� saw through the fraud, and
+said "Leave him to me: if he lives, I will feed him; if he dies, we
+will bury him: do not delay for any one, but travel in a compact body,
+as stragglers now are sure to be cut off." He lost a woman of his party,
+who lagged behind, and seven others were killed besides, and the forest
+hid the murderers. I was only too anxious to get away quickly, and on
+the 22nd started off at daylight, and went about six miles to the
+village of Ma�kwara, where I spent the night when coming this way. The
+chief Mokandira convoyed us hither: I promised him a cloth if I came
+across from Lomam�. He wonders much at the underground houses, and never
+heard of them till I told him about them. Many of the gullies which were
+running fast when we came were now dry. Thunder began, and a few drops
+of rain fell.
+
+_23rd-24th July, 1871._--We crossed the River Kunda, of fifty yards, in
+two canoes, and then ascended from the valley of denudation, in which it
+flows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds followed, all anxious to carry loads
+for a few beads. Several market people came to salute, who knew that we
+had no hand in the massacre, as we are a different people from the
+Arabs. In going and coming they must have a march of 25 miles with loads
+so heavy no slave would carry them. They speak of us as "good:" the
+anthropologists think that to be spoken of as wicked is better. Ezekiel
+says that the Most High put His comeliness upon Jerusalem: if He does
+not impart of His goodness to me I shall never be good: if He does not
+put of His comeliness on me I shall never be comely in soul, but be like
+these Arabs in whom Satan has full sway--the god of this world having
+blinded their eyes.
+
+_25th July, 1871._--We came over a beautiful country yesterday, a vast
+hollow of denudation, with much cultivation, intersected by a ridge some
+300 feet high, on which the villages are built: this is Lobango. The
+path runs along the top of the ridge, and we see the fine country below
+all spread out with different shades of green, as on a map. The colours
+show the shapes of the different plantations in the great hollow drained
+by the Kunda. After crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, which flows into
+the Kunda, and it into Lualaba, we rose on to another intersecting
+ridge, having a great many villages burned by Matereka or Salem
+Mokadam's people, since we passed them in our course N.W. They had
+slept on the ridge after we saw them, and next morning, in sheer
+wantonness, fired their lodgings,--their slaves had evidently carried
+the fire along from their lodgings, and set fire to houses of villages
+in their route as a sort of horrid Moslem Nigger joke; it was done only
+because they could do it without danger of punishment: it was such fun
+to make the Mashens�, as they call all natives, houseless. Men are worse
+than beasts of prey, if indeed it is lawful to call Zanzibar slaves men.
+It is monstrous injustice to compare free Africans living under their
+own chiefs and laws, and cultivating their own free lands, with what
+slaves afterwards become at Zanzibar and elsewhere.
+
+_26th July, 1871._--Came up out of the last valley of denudation--that
+drained by Kahembai, and then along a level land with open forest. Four
+men passed us in hot haste to announce the death of a woman at their
+village to her relations living at another. I heard of several deaths
+lately of dysentery. Pleurisy is common from cold winds from N.W.
+Twenty-two men with large square black shields, capable of completely
+hiding the whole person, came next in a trot to receive the body of
+their relative and all her gear to carry her to her own home for burial:
+about twenty women followed them, and the men waited under the trees
+till they should have wound the body up and wept over her. They smeared
+their bodies with clay, and their faces with soot. Reached our friend
+Kama.
+
+_27th July, 1871._--Left Kama's group of villages and went through many
+others before we reached Kasongo's, and were welcomed by all the Arabs
+of the camp at this place. Bought two milk goats reasonably, and rest
+over Sunday. (_28th and 29th_). They asked permission to send a party
+with me for goods to Ujiji; this will increase our numbers, and perhaps
+safety too, among the justly irritated people between this and Bambarr�.
+All are enjoined to help me, and of course I must do the same to them.
+It is colder here than at Nya�gw�. Kasongo is off guiding an ivory or
+slaving party, and doing what business he can on his own account; he has
+four guns, and will be the first to maraud on his own account.
+
+_30th July, 1871._--They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seventeen
+Manyuema volunteers to carry thither and back: these are the very first
+who in modern times have ventured fifty miles from the place of their
+birth. I came only three miles to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoy�,
+and slept at village on a hill beyond it.
+
+_31st July, 1871._--Passed through the defile between Mount Kimazi and
+Mount Kijila. Below the cave with stalactite pillar in its door a fine
+echo answers those who feel inclined to shout to it. Come to Mangala's
+numerous villages, and two slaves being ill, rest on Wednesday.
+
+_1st August, 1871._--A large market assembles close to us.
+
+_2nd August, 1871._--Left Mangala's, and came through a great many
+villages all deserted on our approach on account of the vengeance taken
+by Dugumb�'s party for the murder of some of their people. Kasongo's men
+appeared eager to plunder their own countrymen: I had to scold and
+threaten them, and set men to watch their deeds. Plantains are here very
+abundant, good, and cheap. Came to Kittett�, and lodge in a village of
+Loembo. About thirty foundries were passed; they are very high in the
+roof, and thatched with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sand
+would. Rain runs off equally well.
+
+_3rd August, 1871._--Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon ivory we
+wait a day, Kasongo came up and filled their places.
+
+I have often observed effigies of men made of wood in Manyuema; some of
+clay are simply cones with a small hole in the top; on asking about them
+here, I for the first time obtained reliable information. They are
+called Bathata--fathers or ancients--and the name of each is carefully
+preserved. Those here at Kittett� were evidently the names of chiefs,
+Molenda being the most ancient, whilst Mbayo Yamba, Kamoanga, Kitambw�,
+No�go, Aulumba, Yeng� Yeng�, Simba Maya�ga, Loembw�, are more recently
+dead. They were careful to have the exact pronunciation of the names.
+The old men told me that on certain occasions they offer goat's flesh to
+them: men eat it, and allow no young person or women to partake. The
+flesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old men. They say that if
+eaten by young men their children will have the waddling gait of the
+bird. They say that originally those who preceded Molenda came from
+Kongolakokwa, which conveys no idea to my mind. It was interesting to
+get even this little bit of history here. (Nko�golo = Deity; Nko�golokwa
+as the Deity.)
+
+_4th August, 1871._--Came through miles of villages all burned because
+the people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings! The men had begun to
+re-thatch the huts, and kept out of our way, but a goat was speared by
+some one in hiding, and we knew danger was near. Abdullah admitted that
+he had no other reason for burning them than the unwillingness of the
+people to lodge him and his slaves without payment, with the certainty
+of getting their food stolen and utensils destroyed.
+
+_5th and 6th August, 1871._--Through many miles of palm-trees and
+plantains to a Boma or stockaded village, where we slept, though the
+people were evidently suspicious and unfriendly.
+
+_7th August, 1871._--To a village, ill and almost every step in pain.
+The people all ran away, and appeared in the distance armed, and refused
+to come near--then came and threw stones at us, and afterwards tried to
+kill those who went for water. We sleep uncomfortably, the natives
+watching us all round. Sent men to see if the way was clear.
+
+_8th August, 1871._--They would come to no parley. They knew their
+advantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from Bin Juma and Mohamad's
+men when they threw down the ivory in the forest. In passing along the
+narrow path with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand, we came
+to a point where an ambush had been placed, and trees cut down to
+obstruct us while they speared us; but for some reason it was abandoned.
+Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down to the earth and peering
+up towards the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen: this was an
+infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation meant a
+spear. A large spear from my right lunged past and almost grazed my
+back, and stuck firmly into the soil. The two men from whom it came
+appeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards off and bolted, one
+looking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they are expert with the
+spear I don't know how it missed, except that he was too sure of his aim
+and the good hand of God was upon me.
+
+I was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass till I, the
+leader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib, or Kolokolo himself,
+came up to the point where they lay. A red jacket they had formerly seen
+me wearing was proof to them, that I was the same that sent Bin Juma to
+kill five of their men, capture eleven women and children, and
+twenty-five goats. Another spear was thrown at me by an unseen
+assailant, and it missed me by about a foot in front. Guns were fired
+into the dense mass of forest, but with no effect, for nothing could be
+seen; but we heard the men jeering and denouncing us close by: two of
+our party were slain.
+
+Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation I noticed a
+gigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an ant-hill 20 feet high;
+it had fire applied near its roots, I heard a crack which told that the
+fire had done its work, but felt no alarm till I saw it come straight
+towards me: I ran a few paces back, and down it came to the ground one
+yard behind me, and breaking into several lengths, it covered me with a
+cloud of dust. Had the branches not previously been rotted off, I could
+scarcely have escaped.
+
+Three times in one day was I delivered from impending death.
+
+My attendants, who were scattered in all directions, came running back
+to me, calling out, "Peace! peace! you will finish all your work in
+spite of these people, and in spite of everything." Like them, I took it
+as an omen of good success to crown me yet, thanks to the "Almighty
+Preserver of men."
+
+We had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by spearmen, who all
+felt that if they killed me they would be revenging the death of
+relations. From each hole in the tangled mass we looked for a spear; and
+each moment expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weapons
+hurled at us. I became weary with the constant strain of danger,
+and--as, I suppose, happens with soldiers on the field of battle--not
+courageous, but perfectly indifferent whether I were killed or not.
+
+When at last we got out of the forest and crossed the Liya on to the
+cleared lands near the villages of Monan-bundwa, we lay down to rest,
+and soon saw Muanampunda coming, walking up in a stately manner unarmed
+to meet us. He had heard the vain firing of my men into the bush, and
+came to ask what was the matter. I explained the mistake that Munangonga
+had made in supposing that I was Kolokolo, the deeds of whose men he
+knew, and then we went on to his village together.
+
+In the evening he sent to say that if I would give him all my people who
+had guns, he would call his people together, burn off all the vegetation
+they could fire, and punish our enemies, bringing me ten goats instead
+of the three milch goats I had lost. I again explained that the attack
+was made by a mistake in thinking I was Mohamad Bogharib, and that I had
+no wish to kill men: to join in his old feud would only make matters
+worse. This he could perfectly understand.
+
+I lost all my remaining calico, a telescope, umbrella, and five spears,
+by one of the slaves throwing down the load and taking up his own bundle
+of country cloth.
+
+_9th August, 1871._--Went on towards Mamohela, now deserted by the
+Arabs. Monanponda convoyed me a long way, and at one spot, with grass
+all trodden down, he said, "Here we killed a man of Moezia and ate his
+body." The meat cut up had been seen by Dugumb�.
+
+_10th August, 1871._--In connection with this affair the party that came
+through from Mamalulu found that a great fight had taken place at
+Muanampunda's, and they saw the meat cut up to be cooked with bananas.
+They did not like the strangers to look at their meat, but said, "Go on,
+and let our feast alone," they did not want to be sneered at. The same
+Muanampunda or Monambonda told me frankly that they ate the man of
+Moezia: they seem to eat their foes to inspire courage, or in revenge.
+One point is very remarkable; it is not want that has led to the custom,
+for the country is full of food: nobody is starved of farinaceous food;
+they have maize, dura, pennisetum, cassava and sweet potatoes, and for
+fatty ingredients of diet, the palm-oil, ground-nuts, sessamum, and a
+tree whose fruit yields a fine sweet oil: the saccharine materials
+needed are found in the sugar-cane, bananas, and plantains.
+
+Goats, sheep, fowls, dogs, pigs, abound in the villages, whilst the
+forest affords elephants, zebras, buffaloes, antelopes, and in the
+streams there are many varieties of fish. The nitrogenous ingredients
+are abundant, and they have dainties in palm-toddy, and tobacco or
+Bang�: the soil is so fruitful that mere scraping off the weeds is as
+good as ploughing, so that the reason for cannibalism does not lie in
+starvation or in want of animal matter, as was said to be the case with
+the New Zealanders. The only feasible reason I can discover is a
+depraved appetite, giving an extraordinary craving for meat which we
+call "high." They are said to bury a dead body for a couple of days in
+the soil in a forest, and in that time, owing to the climate, it soon
+becomes putrid enough for the strongest stomachs.
+
+The Lualaba has many oysters in it with very thick shells. They are
+called _Makessi_, and at certain seasons are dived for by the Bagenya
+women: pearls are said to be found in them, but boring to string them
+has never been thought of. _Kanone_, Ibis religiosa. _Uruko_, Kuss name
+of coffee.
+
+The Manyuema are so afraid of guns, that a man borrows one to settle any
+dispute or claim: he goes with it over his shoulder, and quickly
+arranges the matter by the pressure it brings, though they all know that
+he could not use it.
+
+_Gulu_, Deity above, or heaven. _Mamvu_, earth or below. _Gulu_ is a
+person, and men, on death, go to him. _Nkoba,_ lightning. _Nkongolo_,
+Deity (?). _Kula_ or _Nkula_, salt spring west of Nyangw�. _Kalunda_,
+ditto. _Kiria_, rapid down river. _Kirila_, islet in sight of Nyangw�.
+_Magoya_, ditto.
+
+_Note_.--The chief Zurampela is about N.W. of Nyangw�, and three days
+off. The Luiv� River, of very red water, is crossed, and the larger
+Mabila River receives it into its very dark water before Mabila enters
+Lualaba.
+
+A ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, as calculi are, is a
+great charm among the Arabs: it scares away other animals, they say.
+
+Lion's fat smeared on the tails of oxen taken through a country
+abounding in tsetse, or bungo, is a sure preventive; when I heard of
+this, I thought that lion's fat would be as difficult of collection as
+gnat's brains or mosquito tongues, but I was assured that many lions
+are killed on the Basango highland, and they, in common with all beasts
+there, are extremely fat: so it is not at all difficult to buy a
+calabash of the preventive, and Banyamwezi, desirous of taking cattle to
+the coast for sale, know the substance, and use it successfully (?).
+
+_11th August, 1871._--Came on by a long march of six hours across plains
+of grass and watercourses, lined with beautiful trees, to Kassessa's,
+the chief of Mamohela, who has helped the Arabs to scourge several of
+his countrymen for old feuds: he gave them goats, and then guided them
+by night to the villages, where they got more goats and many captives,
+each to be redeemed with ten goats more. During the last foray, however,
+the people learned that every shot does not kill, and they came up to
+the party with bows and arrows, and compelled the slaves to throw down
+their guns and powder-horns. They would have shown no mercy had Manyuema
+been thus in slave power; but this is a beginning of the end, which will
+exclude Arab traders from the country. I rested half a day, as I am
+still ill. I do most devoutly thank the Lord for sparing my life three
+times in one day. The Lord is good, a stronghold in the day of trouble,
+and He knows them that trust in Him.
+
+[The brevity of the following notes is fully accounted for: Livingstone
+was evidently suffering too severely to write more.]
+
+_12th August, 1871._--Mamohela camp all burned off. We sleep at Mamohela
+village.
+
+_13th August, 1871._--At a village on the bank of River Lolindi, I am
+suffering greatly. A man brought a young, nearly full-fledged, kite from
+a nest on a tree: this is the first case of their breeding, that I am
+sure of, in this country: they are migratory into these intertropical
+lands from the south, probably.
+
+_14th August, 1871._--Across many brisk burns to a village on the side
+of a mountain range. First rains 12th and 14th, gentle; but near Luamo,
+it ran on the paths, and caused dew.
+
+_15th August, 1871._--To Muanambonyo's. Golungo, a bush buck, with
+stripes across body, and two rows of spots along the sides (?)
+
+_16th August, 1871._--To Luamo River. Very ill with bowels.
+
+_17th August, 1871._--Cross river, and sent a message to my friend.
+Katomba sent a bountiful supply of food back.
+
+_18th August, 1871._--Reached Katomba, at Moenemgoi's, and was welcomed
+by all the heavily-laden Arab traders. They carry their trade spoil in
+three relays. Kenyenger� attacked before I came, and 150 captives were
+taken and about 100 slain; this is an old feud of Moenemgoi, which the
+Arabs took up for their own gain. No news whatever from Ujiji, and M.
+Bogharib is still at Bambarr�, with all my letters.
+
+_19th-20th August, 1871._--Rest from weakness. (_21st August, 1871._) Up
+to the palms on the west of Mount Kanyima Pass. (_22nd August, 1871._)
+Bambarr�. (_28th August, 1871._) Better and thankful. Katomba's party
+has nearly a thousand frasilahs of ivory, and Mohamad's has 300
+frasilahs.
+
+_29th August, 1871._--Ill all night, and remain. (_30th August, 1871._)
+Ditto, ditto; but go on to Monandenda's on River Lombonda.
+
+_31st August, 1871._--Up and half over the mountain range, (_1st
+September, 1871_) and sleep in dense forest, with several fine running
+streams.
+
+_2nd September, 1871._--Over the range, and down on to a marble-capped
+hill, with a village on top.
+
+_3rd September, 1871._--Equinoctial gales. On to Lohombo.
+
+_5th September, 1871._--To Kasangangazi's. (_6th September, 1871._)
+Rest. (_7th September, 1871._) Mamba's. Rest on 8th. (_9th September,
+1871._) Ditto ditto. People falsely accused of stealing; but I disproved
+it to the confusion of the Arabs, who wish to be able to say, "the
+people of the English steal too." A very rough road from Kasangangazi's
+hither, and several running rivulets crossed.
+
+_10th September, 1871._--Manyuema boy followed us, but I insisted on his
+father's consent, which was freely given: marching proved too hard for
+him, however, and in a few days he left.
+
+Down into the valley of the Kapemba through beautiful undulating
+country, and came to village of Amru: this is a common name, and is used
+as "man," or "comrade," or "mate."
+
+_11th September, 1871._--Up a very steep high mountain range, Moloni or
+Mononi, and down to a village at the bottom on the other side, of a man
+called Molembu.
+
+_12th September, 1871._--Two men sick. Wait, though I am now
+comparatively sound and well. Dura flour, which we can now procure,
+helps to strengthen me: it is nearest to wheaten flour; maize meal is
+called "cold," and not so wholesome as the _Holeus sorghum_ or dura. A
+lengthy march through a level country, with high mountain ranges on each
+hand; along that on the left our first path lay, and it was very
+fatiguing. We came to the Rivulet Kalangai. I had hinted to Mohamad that
+if he harboured my deserters, it might go hard with him; and he came
+after me for two marches, and begged me not to think that he did
+encourage them. They came impudently into the village, and I had to
+drive them out: I suspected that he had sent them. I explained, and he
+gave me a goat, which I sent back for.
+
+_13th September, 1871._--This march back completely used up the Manyuema
+boy: he could not speak, or tell what he wanted cooked, when he arrived.
+I did not see him go back, and felt sorry for the poor boy, who left us
+by night. People here would sell nothing, so I was glad of the goat.
+
+_14th September, 1871._--To Pyanamosind�'s. _(15th September, 1871.)_ To
+Karungamagao's; very fine undulating green country. _(16th and 17th
+September, 1871.)_ Rest, as we could get food to buy.
+
+_(18th September, 1871.)_ To a stockaded village, where the people
+ordered us to leave. We complied, and went out half a mile and built
+our sheds in the forest: I like sheds in the forest much better than
+huts in the villages, for we have no mice or vermin, and incur no
+obligation.
+
+_19th September, 1871._--Found that Barua are destroying all the
+Manyuema villages not stockaded.
+
+_20th September, 1871._--We came to Kunda's on the River Katemba,
+through great plantations of cassava, and then to a woman chief's, and
+now regularly built our own huts apart from the villages, near the hot
+fountain called Kabila which is about blood-heat, and flows across the
+path. Crossing this we came to Mokwaniwa's, on the River Gombez�, and
+met a caravan, under Nassur Masudi, of 200 guns. He presented a fine
+sheep, and reported that Seyed Majid was dead--he had been ailing and
+fell from some part of his new house at Darsalam, and in three days
+afterwards expired. He was a true and warm friend to me and did all he
+could to aid me with his subjects, giving me two Sultan's letters for
+the purpose. Seyed Burghash succeeds him; this change causes anxiety.
+Will Seyed Burghash's goodness endure now that he has the Sultanate?
+Small-pox raged lately at Ujiji.
+
+_22nd September, 1871._--Caravan goes northwards, and we rest, and eat
+the sheep kindly presented.
+
+_23rd September, 1871._--We now passed through the country of mixed
+Barua and Baguha, crossed the River Lo�gumba twice and then came near
+the great mountain mass on west of Tanganyika. From Mokwaniwa's to
+Tanganyika is about ten good marches through open forest. The Guha
+people are not very friendly; they know strangers too well to show
+kindness: like Manyuema, they are also keen traders. I was sorely
+knocked up by this march from Nya�gw� back to Ujiji. In the latter part
+of it, I felt as if dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain, the
+appetite failed, and a little bit of meat caused violent diarrhoea,
+whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the body. All the traders
+were returning successful: I alone had failed and experienced worry,
+thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of the end towards which I
+strained.
+
+_3rd October, 1871._--I read the whole Bible through four times whilst I
+was in Manyuema.
+
+_8th October, 1871._--The road covered with angular fragments of quartz
+was very sore to my feet, which are crammed into ill-made French shoes.
+How the bare feet of the men and women stood out, I don't know; it was
+hard enough on mine though protected by the shoes. We marched in the
+afternoons where water at this season was scarce. The dust of the march
+caused ophthalmia, like that which afflicted Speke: this was my first
+touch of it in Africa. We now came to the Lobumba River, which flows
+into Tanganyika, and then to the village Loanda and sent to Kasanga, the
+Guha chief, for canoes. The Lo�gumba rises, like the Lobumba, in the
+mountains called Kabogo West. We heard great noises, as if thunder, as
+far as twelve days off, which were ascribed to Kabogo, as if it had
+subterranean caves into which the waves rushed with great noise, and it
+may be that the Lo�gumba is the outlet of Tanganyika: it becomes the
+Luass� further down, and then the Luamo before it joins the Lualaba: the
+country slopes that way, but I was too ill to examine its source.
+
+_9th October, 1871._--On to islet Kaseng�. After much delay got a good
+canoe for three dotis, and on _15th October, 1871_ went to the islet
+Kabiziwa.
+
+_18th October, 1871._--Start for Kabogo East, and _19th_ reach it 8 A.M.
+
+_20th October, 1871._--Rest men.
+
+_22nd October, 1871._--To Rombola.
+
+_23rd October, 1871._--At dawn, off and go to Ujiji. Welcomed by all the
+Arabs, particularly by Moenyegher�. I was now reduced to a skeleton,
+but the market being held daily, and all kinds of native food brought to
+it, I hoped that food and rest would soon restore me, but in the evening
+my people came and told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods, and
+Moenyegher� confirmed it by saying, "We protested, but he did not leave
+a single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a string of beads out of 700
+lbs." This was distressing. I had made up my mind, if I could not get
+people at Ujiji, to wait till men should come from the coast, but to
+wait in beggary was what I never contemplated, and I now felt miserable.
+Shereef was evidently a moral idiot, for he came without shame to shake
+hands with me, and when I refused, assumed an air of displeasure, as
+having been badly treated; and afterwards came with his "Balghere,"
+good-luck salutation, twice a day, and on leaving said, "I am going to
+pray," till I told him that were I an Arab, his hand and both ears would
+be cut off for thieving, as he knew, and I wanted no salutations from
+him. In my distress it was annoying to see Shereef's slaves passing from
+the market with all the good things that my goods had bought.
+
+_24th October, 1871._--My property had been sold to Shereef's friends at
+merely nominal prices. Syed bin Majid, a good man, proposed that they
+should be returned, and the ivory be taken from Shereef; but they would
+not restore stolen property, though they knew it to be stolen.
+Christians would have acted differently, even those of the lowest
+classes. I felt in my destitution as if I were the man who went down
+from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves; but I could not hope
+for Priest, Levite, or good Samaritan to come by on either side, but one
+morning Syed bin Majid said to me, "Now this is the first time we have
+been alone together; I have no goods, but I have ivory; let me, I pray
+you, sell some ivory, and give the goods to you." This was encouraging;
+but I said, "Not yet, but by-and-bye." I had still a few barter goods
+left, which I had taken the precaution to deposit with Mohamad bin Saleh
+before going to Manyuema, in case of returning in extreme need. But when
+my spirits were at their lowest ebb, the good Samaritan was close at
+hand, for one morning Susi came running at the top of his speed and
+gasped out, "An Englishman! I see him!" and off he darted to meet him.
+The American flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality of
+the stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge kettles, cooking pots,
+tents, &c, made me think "This must be a luxurious traveller, and not
+one at his wits' end like me." _(28th October, 1871.)_ It was Henry
+Moreland Stanley, the travelling correspondent of the _New York Herald,_
+sent by James Gordon Bennett, junior, at an expense of more than
+4000_l._, to obtain accurate information about Dr. Livingstone if
+living, and if dead to bring home my bones. The news he had to tell to
+one who had been two full years without any tidings from Europe made my
+whole frame thrill. The terrible fate that had befallen France, the
+telegraphic cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election of
+General Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon--my constant friend, the
+proof that Her Majesty's Government had not forgotten me in voting
+1000_l_. for supplies, and many other points of interest, revived
+emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema. Appetite returned, and
+instead of the spare, tasteless, two meals a day, I ate four times
+daily, and in a week began to feel strong. I am not of a demonstrative
+turn; as cold, indeed, as we islanders are usually reputed to be, but
+this disinterested kindness of Mr. Bennett, so nobly carried into effect
+by Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming. I really do feel extremely
+grateful, and at the same time I am a little ashamed at not being more
+worthy of the generosity. Mr. Stanley has done his part with untiring
+energy; good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. His
+helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who, by their excesses at
+Zanzibar and elsewhere, had ruined their constitutions, and prepared
+their systems to be fit provender for the grave. They had used up their
+strength by wickedness, and were of next to no service, but rather
+downdrafts and unbearable drags to progress.
+
+_16th November, 1871._--As Tanganyika explorations are said by Mr.
+Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, we go at his
+expense and by his men to the north of the Lake.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone on a previous occasion wrote from the interior of
+Africa to the effect that Lake Tanganyika poured its waters into the
+Albert Nyanza Lake of Baker. At the time perhaps he hardly realized the
+interest that such an announcement was likely to occasion. He was now
+shown the importance of ascertaining by actual observation whether the
+junction really existed, and for this purpose he started with Mr.
+Stanley to explore the region of the supposed connecting link in the
+North, so as to verify the statements of the Arabs.]
+
+_16th November, 1871._--Four hours to Chigoma.
+
+_20th and 21st November, 1871._--Passed a very crowded population, the
+men calling to us to land to be fleeced and insulted by way of Mahonga
+or Mutuari: they threw stones in rage, and one, apparently slung,
+lighted close to the canoe. We came on until after dark, and landed
+under a cliff to rest and cook, but a crowd came and made inquiries,
+then a few more came as if to investigate more perfectly: they told us
+to sleep, and to-morrow friendship should be made. We put our luggage on
+board and set a watch on the cliff. A number of men came along, cowering
+behind rocks, which then aroused suspicion, and we slipped off quietly;
+they called after us, as men baulked of their prey. We went on five
+hours and slept, and then this morning came on to Magala, where the
+people are civil, but Mukamba had war with some one. The Lake narrows to
+about ten miles, as the western mountains come towards the eastern
+range, that being about N.N.W. magnetic. Many stumps of trees killed by
+water show an encroachment by the Lake on the east side. A transverse
+range seems to shut in the north end, but there is open country to the
+east and west of its ends.
+
+_24th November, 1871._--To Point Kizuka in Mukamba's country. A
+Molongwana came to us from Mukamba and asserted most positively that all
+the water of Tanganyika flowed into the River Lusiz�, and then on to
+Ukerew� of Mt�za; nothing could be more clear than his statements.
+
+_25th November, 1871._--We came on about two hours to some villages on a
+high bank where Mukamba is living. The chief, a young good-looking man
+like Mugala, came and welcomed us. Our friend of yesterday now declared
+as positively as before that the water of Lusiz� flowed into Tanganyika,
+and not the way he said yesterday! I have not the smallest doubt but
+Tanganyika discharges somewhere, though we may be unable to find it.
+Lusiz� goes to or comes from Luanda and Karagw�. This is hopeful, but I
+suspend my judgment. War rages between Mukamba and Wasmashanga or
+Uasmasan�, a chief between this and Lusiz�: ten men were killed of
+Mukamba's people a few days ago. Vast numbers of fishermen ply their
+calling night and day as far as we can see. Tanganyika closes in except
+at one point N. and by W. of us. The highest point of the western range,
+about 7000 feet above the sea, is Sumburuza. We are to go to-morrow to
+Luhinga, elder brother of Mukamba, near Lusiz�, and the chief follows us
+next day.
+
+_26th November, 1871._--Sunday. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. I gave
+Mukamba 9 dotis and 9 fundos. The end of Tanganyika seen clearly is
+rounded off about 4' broad from east to west.
+
+_27th November, 1871._--Mr. Stanley is better. We started at sunset
+westwards, then northwards for seven hours, and at 4 A.M. reached
+Lohinga, at the mouth of the Lusiz�.
+
+_28th November, 1871._--Shot an _Ibis religiosa._ In the afternoon
+Luhinga, the superior of Mukamb�, came and showed himself very
+intelligent. He named eighteen rivers, four of which enter Tanganyika,
+and the rest Lusiz�: all come into, none leave Tanganyika.[15] Lusiz� is
+said to rise in Kwangereg�r� in the Kivo lagoon, between Mutumb� and
+Luanda. Nyabungu is chief of Mutumb�. Luhinga is the most intelligent
+and the frankest chief we have seen here.
+
+_29th November, 1871._--We go to see the Lusiz� Eiver in a canoe. The
+mouth is filled with large reedy sedgy islets: there are three branches,
+about twelve to fifteen yards broad, and one fathom deep, with a strong
+current of 2' per hour: water discoloured. The outlet of the Lake is
+probably by the Lo�gumba River into Lualaba as the Luamo, but this as
+yet must be set down as a "theoretical discovery."
+
+_30th November, 1871._--A large present of eggs, flour, and a sheep came
+from Mukamba. Mr. Stanley went round to a bay in the west, to which the
+mountains come sheer down.
+
+_1st December, 1871, Friday._--Latitude last night 3� 18' 3" S. I gave
+fifteen cloths to Lohinga, which pleased him highly. Kuansibura is the
+chief who lives near Kivo, the lagoon from which the Lusiz� rises: they
+say it flows under a rock.
+
+_2nd December, 1871._--Ill from bilious attack.
+
+_3rd December, 1871._--Better and thankful. Men went off to bring
+Mukamba, whose wife brought us a handsome present of milk, beer, and
+cassava. She is a good-looking young woman, of light colour and full
+lips, with two children of eight or ten years of age. We gave them
+cloths, and sheasked beads, so we made them a present of two fundos. By
+lunars I was one day wrong to-day.
+
+_4th December, 1871._--Very heavy rain from north all night. Baker's
+Lake cannot be as near as he puts it in his map, for it is unknown to
+Lohing�. He thinks that he is a hundred years old, but he is really
+about forty-five! Namataranga is the name of birds which float high in
+air in large flocks.
+
+_5th December, 1871._--We go over to a point on our east. The bay is
+about 12' broad: the mountains here are very beautiful. We visited the
+chief Mukamba, at his village five miles north of Lohinga's; he wanted
+us to remain a few days, but I declined. We saw two flocks of _Ibis
+religiosa,_ numbering in all fifty birds, feeding like geese.
+
+_6th December, 1871._--Remain at Luhinga's.
+
+_7th December, 1871._--Start and go S.W. to Lohanga: passed the point
+where Speke turned, then breakfasted at the marketplace.
+
+_8th December, 1871._--Go on to Mukamba; near the boundary of Babemb�
+and Bavira. We pulled six hours to a rocky islet, with two rocks covered
+with trees on its western side. The Babemb� are said to be dangerous, on
+account of having been slaughtered by the Malongwana. The Lat. of these
+islands is 3� 41' S.
+
+_9th December, 1871._--Leave New York Herald Islet and go S. to Lubumba
+Cape. The people now are the Basansas along the coast. Some men here
+were drunk and troublesome: we gave them a present and left them about
+4-1/2 in afternoon and went to an islet at the north end in about three
+hours, good pulling, and afterwards in eight hours to the eastern shore;
+this makes the Lake, say, 28 or 30 miles broad. We coasted along to
+Mokungos and rested.
+
+_10th December, 1871._--Kisessa is chief of all the islet Mozima. His
+son was maltreated at Ujiji and died in consequence; this stopped the
+dura trade, and we were not assaulted because not Malongwana.
+
+_11th December, 1871._--Leave Mokungo at 6 A.M. and coast along 6-1/2
+hours to Sazzi.
+
+_12th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley ill with fever. Off, and after three
+hours, stop at Masambo village.
+
+_13th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley better. Go on to Ujiji. Mr. Stanley
+received a letter from Consul Webb (American) of 11th June last, and
+telegrams from Aden up to 29th April.
+
+_14th December, 1871._--Many people off to fight Mirambo at Unyanyemb�:
+their wives promenade and weave green leaves for victory.
+
+_15th December, 1871._--At Ujiji. Getting ready to march east for my
+goods.
+
+_16th December, 1871._--Engage paddlers to Tongw� and a guide.
+
+_17th December, 1871._--S. _18th._--Writing. _19th-20th._--Still
+writing despatches. Packed up the large tin box with Manyuema swords and
+spear heads, for transmission home by Mr. Stanley. Two chronometers and two
+watches--anklets of Nzig� and of Manyuema. Leave with Mohamad bin Saleh
+a box with books, shirts, paper, &c.; also large and small beads, tea,
+coffee and sugar.
+
+_21st December, 1871._--Heavy rains for planting now.
+
+_22nd December, 1871._--Stanley ill of fever.
+
+_23rd December, 1871._--Do. very ill. Rainy and uncomfortable.
+
+_24th December, 1871._--S. _25th.--Christmas_. I leave here one bag of
+beads in a skin, 2 bags of Sungo mazi 746 and 756 blue. Gardner's bag of
+beads, soap 2 bars in 3 boxes (wood). 1st, tea and matunda; 2nd, wooden
+box, paper and shirts; 3rd, iron box, shoes, quinine, 1 bag of coffee,
+sextant stand, one long wooden box empty. These are left with Mohamad
+bin Saleh at Ujiji, Christmas Day, 1871. Two bags of beads are already
+here and table cloths.
+
+_26th December, 1871._--Had but a sorry Christmas yesterday.
+
+_27th December, 1871.--Mem_. To send Moenyegher� some coffee and tell
+his wishes to Masudi.
+
+_27th December, 1871._--Left Ujiji 9 A.M., and crossed goats, donkeys,
+and men over Luich�. Sleep at the Malagarasi.
+
+_29th December, 1871._--Crossed over the broad bay of the Malagarasi to
+Kagonga and sleep.
+
+_30th December, 1871._--Pass Viga Point, red sandstone, and cross the
+bay of the River Lugufu and Nkala village, and transport the people and
+goats: sleep.
+
+_31st December, 1871._--Send for beans, as there are no provisions in
+front of this. Brown water of the Lugufu bent away north: the high wind
+is S.W. and W. Having provisions we went round Munkalu Point. The water
+is slightly discoloured for a mile south of it, but brown water is seen
+on the north side of bay bent north by a current.
+
+_1st January, 1872._--May the Almighty help me to finish my work this
+year for Christ's sake! We slept in Mosehezi Bay. I was storm-stayed in
+Kifw� Bay, which is very beautiful--still as a millpond. We found 12 or
+13 hippopotami near a high bank, but did not kill any, for our balls are
+not hardened. It is high rocky tree-covered shore, with rocks bent and
+twisted wonderfully; large slices are worn off the land with hillsides
+clad with robes of living green, yet very, very steep.
+
+_2nd January, 1872._--A very broad Belt of large tussocks of reeds lines
+the shore near Mount Kibanga or Boumba. We had to coast along to the
+south. Saw a village nearly afloat, the people having there taken refuge
+from their enemies. There are many hippopotami and crocodiles in
+Tanganyika. A river 30 yards wide, the Kibanga, flows in strongly. We
+encamped on an open space on a knoll and put up flags to guide our land
+party to us.
+
+_3rd January, 1872._--We send off to buy food. Mr. Stanley shot a fat
+zebra, its meat was very good.
+
+_4th January, 1872._--The Ujijians left last night with their canoes. I
+gave them 14 fundos of beads to buy food on the way. We are now waiting
+for our land party. I gave headmen here at Burimba 2 dotis and a
+Kitamba. Men arrived yesterday or 4-1/2 days from the Lugufu.
+
+_5th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley is ill of fever. I am engaged in
+copying notes into my journal. All men and goats arrived safely.
+
+_6th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley better, and we prepare to go.
+
+_7th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley shot a buffalo at the end of our first
+march up. East and across the hills. The River Luajer� is in front. We
+spend the night at the carcase of the buffalo.
+
+_8th January, 1872._--We crossed the river, which is 30 yards wide and
+rapid. It is now knee and waist deep. The country is rich and beautiful,
+hilly and tree-covered, reddish soil, and game abundant.
+
+_9th January, 1872._--Rainy, but we went on E. and N.N.E. through a
+shut-in valley to an opening full of all kinds of game. Buffalo cows
+have calves now: one was wounded. Rain came down abundantly.
+
+_10th January, 1872._--Across a very lovely green country of open forest
+all fresh, and like an English gentleman's park. Game plentiful.
+Tree-covered mountains right and left, and much brown h�matite on the
+levels. Course E. A range of mountains appears about three miles off on
+our right.
+
+_11th January, 1872._--Off through open forest for three hours east,
+then cook, and go on east another three hours, over very rough rocky,
+hilly country. River Mtambahu.
+
+_12th January, 1872._--Off early, and pouring rain came down; as we
+advance the country is undulating. We cross a rivulet 15 yards wide
+going north, and at another of 3 yards came to a halt; all wet and
+uncomfortable.
+
+The people pick up many mushrooms and manendinga roots, like turnips.
+There are buffaloes near us in great numbers.
+
+_13th January, 1872._--Fine morning. Went through an undulating hilly
+country clothed with upland trees for three hours, then breakfast in an
+open glade, with bottom of rocks of brown h�matite, and a hole with
+rain-water in it. We are over 1000 feet higher than Tanganyika. It
+became cloudy, and we finished our march in a pouring rain, at a rivulet
+thickly clad with aquatic trees on banks. Course E.S.E.
+
+_14th January, 1872._--Another fine morning, but miserably wet
+afternoon. We went almost 4' E.S.E., and crossed a strong rivulet 8 or
+10 yards wide: then on and up to a ridge and along the top of it, going
+about south. We had breakfast on the edge of the plateau, looking down
+into a broad lovely valley. We now descended, and saw many reddish
+monkeys, which made a loud outcry: there was much game, but scattered,
+and we got none. Miserably wet crossing another stream, then up a valley
+to see a deserted Boma or fenced village.
+
+_15th January, 1872._--Along a valley with high mountains on each hand,
+then up over that range on our left or south. At the top some lions
+roared. We then went on on high land, and saw many hartebeests and
+zebra, but did not get one, though a buffalo was knocked over. We
+crossed a rivulet, and away over beautiful and undulating hills and
+vales, covered with many trees and jambros fruit. Sleep at a running
+rill.
+
+_16th January, 1872._--A very cold night after long-continued and heavy
+rain. Our camp was among brakens. Went E. and by S. along the high land,
+then we saw a village down in a deep valley into which we descended.
+Then up another ridge in a valley and along to a village well
+cultivated--up again 700 feet at least, and down to Mer�ra's village,
+hid in a mountainous nook, about 140 huts with doors on one side. The
+valleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the people being eagerly
+engaged in weeding and hoeing to take advantage of the abundant rains
+which have drenched us every afternoon.
+
+_17th January, 1872._--We remain at Mer�ra's to buy food for our men
+and ourselves.
+
+_18th January, 1872._--March, but the Mirongosi wandered and led us
+round about instead of S.S.E. We came near some tree-covered hills, and
+a river Monya Mazi--Mtamba River in front. I have very sore feet from
+bad shoes.
+
+_19th January, 1872._--Went about S.E. for four hours, and crossed the
+Mbamba River and passed through open forest. There is a large rock in
+the river, and hills thickly tree-covered, 2' East and West, down a
+steep descent and camp. Came down River Mpokwa over rough country with
+sore feet, to ruins of a village Basivira and sleep. _21st._--Rest.
+_22nd._--Rest. Mr. Stanley shot two zebras yesterday, and a she giraffe
+to-day, the meat of the giraffe was 1000 lbs. weight, the two zebras
+about 800 lbs.
+
+_23rd January, 1872._--Rest. Mr. Stanley has fever. _24th._--Ditto.
+_25th_.--Stanley ill. _26th_.--Stanley better and off.
+
+_26th January, 1872._--Through low hills N.E. and among bamboos to open
+forest--on in undulating bushy tract to a river with two rounded hills
+east, one having three mushroom-shaped trees on it.
+
+_27th January, 1872._--On across long land waves and the only bamboos
+east of Mpokwa Rill to breakfast. In going on a swarm of bees attacked a
+donkey Mr. Stanley bought for me, and instead of galloping off, as did
+the other, the fool of a beast rolled down, and over and over. I did the
+same, then ran, dashed into a bush like an ostrich pursued, then ran
+whisking a bush round my head. They gave me a sore head and face, before
+I got rid of the angry insects: I never saw men attacked before: the
+donkey was completely knocked up by the stings on head, face, and lips,
+and died in two days, in consequence. We slept in the stockade of
+Misonghi.
+
+_28th January, 1872._--We crossed the river and then away E. to near a
+hill. Crossed two rivers, broad and marshy, and deep with elephants
+plunging. Rain almost daily, but less in amount now. Bombay says his
+greatest desire is to visit Speke's grave ere he dies: he has a square
+head with the top depressed in the centre.
+
+_29th January, 1872._--We ascended a ridge, the edge of a flat basin
+with ledges of dark brown sandstone, the brim of ponds in which were
+deposited great masses of brown h�matite, disintegrated into gravel,
+flat open forest with short grass. We crossed a rill of light-coloured
+water three times and reached a village. After this in 1-1/2 hour we
+came to Mer�ra's.
+
+_30th January, 1872._--At Mer�ra's, the second of the name. Much rain
+and very heavy; food abundant. Baniayamwezi and Yukonongo people here.
+
+_31st January, 1872._--Through scraggy bush, then open forest with short
+grass, over a broad rill and on good path to village Mwaro; chief
+Kamirambo.
+
+_1st February, 1872._--We met a caravan of Syde bin Habib's people
+yesterday who reported that Mirambo has offered to repay all the goods
+he has robbed the Arabs of, all the ivory, powder, blood, &c., but his
+offer was rejected. The country all around is devastated, and Arab force
+is at Simba's. Mr. Stanley's man Shaw is dead. There is very great
+mortality by small-pox amongst the Arabs and at the coast. We went over
+flat upland forest, open and bushy, then down a deep descent and along
+N.E. to a large tree at a deserted stockade.
+
+_2nd February, 1872._--Away over ridges of cultivation and elephant's
+footsteps. Cultivators all swept away by Basavira. Very many elephants
+feed here. We lost our trail and sent men to seek it, then came to the
+camp in the forest. Lunched at rill running into Ngomb� Nullah.
+
+Ukamba is the name of the Tsetse fly here.
+
+_3rd February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley has severe fever, with great pains in
+the back and loins: an emetic helped him a little, but resin of jalap
+would have cured him quickly. Rainy all day.
+
+_4th February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley so ill that we carried him in a cot
+across flat forest and land covered with short grass for three hours,
+about north-east, and at last found a path, which was a great help. As
+soon as the men got under cover continued rains began. There is a camp
+of Malongwana here.
+
+_5th February, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. Mr. Stanley a little better, but
+still carried across same level forest; we pass water in pools, and one
+in h�matite. Saw a black rhinoceros, and come near people.
+
+_6th February, 1872._--Drizzly morning, but we went on, and in two hours
+got drenched with cold N.W. rain: the paths full of water we splashed
+along to our camp in a wood. Met a party of native traders going to
+Mwara.
+
+_7th February, 1872._--Along level plains, and clumps of forest, and
+hollows filled at present with water, about N.E., to a large pool of
+Ngomb� Nullah. Send off two men to Unyanyemb� for letters and medicine.
+
+_8th February, 1872._--Removed from the large pool of the nullah, about
+an hour north, to where game abounds. Saw giraffes and zebras on our
+way. The nullah is covered with lotus-plants, and swarms with
+crocodiles.
+
+_9th February, 1872._--Remained for game, but we were unsuccessful. An
+eland was shot by Mr. Stanley, but it was lost. Departed at 2 P.M., and
+reached Manyara, a kind old chief. The country is flat, and covered with
+detached masses of forest, with open glades and flats.
+
+_10th February, 1872._--Leave Manyara and pass along the same park-like
+country, with but little water. The rain sinks into the sandy soil at
+once, and the collection is seldom seen. After a hard tramp we came to a
+pool by a sycamore-tree, 28 feet 9 inches in circumference, with broad
+fruit-laden branches. Ziwan�.
+
+_11th February, 1872._--Rain nearly all night. Scarcely a day has
+passed without rain and thunder since we left Tanganyika Across a flat
+forest again, meeting a caravan for Ujiji. The grass is three feet high,
+and in seed. Reach Chikuru, a stockaded village, with dura plantations
+around it and pools of rain-water.
+
+_12th February, 1872._--Rest.
+
+_13th February, 1872._--Leave Chikuru, and wade across an open flat with
+much standing-water. They plant rice on the wet land round the villages.
+Our path lies through an open forest, where many trees are killed for
+the sake of the bark, which is used as cloth, and for roofing and beds.
+Mr. Stanley has severe fever.
+
+_14th February, 1872._--Across the same flat open forest, with scraggy
+trees and grass three feet long in tufts. Came to a Boma. N.E. Gunda.
+
+_15th February, 1872._--Over the same kind of country, where the water
+was stagnant, to camp in the forest.
+
+_16th February, 1872._--Camp near Kigando, in a rolling country with
+granite knolls.
+
+_17th February, 1872._--Over a country, chiefly level, with stagnant
+water; rounded hills were seen. Cross a rain torrent and encamp in a new
+Boma, Magonda.
+
+_18th February, 1872._--Go through low tree-covered hills of granite,
+with blocks of rock sticking out: much land cultivated, and many
+villages. The country now opens out and we come to the Temb�,[16] in the
+midst of many straggling villages. Unyanyemb�. Thanks to the Almighty.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] The reader will best judge of the success of the experiment by
+looking at a specimen of the writing. An old sheet of the _Standard_
+newspaper, made into rough copy-books, sufficed for paper in the
+absence of all other material, and by writing across the print no
+doubt the notes were tolerably legible at the time. The colour of the
+decoction used instead of ink has faded so much that if Dr.
+Livingstone's handwriting had not at all times been beautifully clear
+and distinct it would have been impossible to decipher this part of
+his diary.--Ed.
+
+[15] Thus the question of the Lusiz� was settled at once: the previous
+notion of its outflow to the north proved a myth.--ED.
+
+[16] Temb�, a flat-roofed Arab house.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyanyemb�. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir S. Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married.
+
+
+By the arrival of the fast Ramad�n on the 14th November, and a Nautical
+Almanac, I discovered that I was on that date twenty-one days too fast
+in my reckoning. Mr. Stanley used some very strong arguments in favour
+of my going home, recruiting my strength, getting artificial teeth, and
+then returning to finish my task; but my judgment said, "All your
+friends will wish you to make a complete work of the exploration of the
+sources of the Nile before you retire." My daughter Agnes says, "Much as
+I wish you to come home, I would rather that you finished your work to
+your own satisfaction than return merely to gratify me." Rightly and
+nobly said, my darling Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty loudly, "She is a
+chip of the old block." My blessing on her and all the rest.
+
+It is all but certain that four full-grown gushing fountains rise on the
+watershed eight days south of Katanga, each of which at no great
+distance off becomes a large river; and two rivers thus formed flow
+north to Egypt, the other two to Inner Ethiopia; that is, Lufira or
+Bartle Frere's River, flows into Kamolondo, and that into Webb's
+Lualaba, the main line of drainage. Another, on the north side of the
+sources, Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba, flows through Lake Lincoln,
+otherwise named Chibungo and Lomam�, and that too into Webb's Lualaba.
+Then Liambai Fountain, Palmerston's, forms the Upper Zambesi; and the
+Lunga (Lunga), Oswell's Fountain, is the Kafu�; both flowing into Inner
+Ethiopia. It may be that these are not the fountains of the Nile
+mentioned to Herodotus by the secretary of Minerva, in Sais, in Egypt;
+but they are worth discovery, as in the last hundred of the seven
+hundred miles of the watershed, from which nearly all the Nile springs
+do unquestionably arise.
+
+I propose to go from Unyanyemb� to Fipa; then round the south end of
+Tanganyika, Tambet�, or Mbet�; then across the Chambez�, and round south
+of Lake Bangweolo, and due west to the ancient fountains; leaving the
+underground excavations till after visiting Katanga. This route will
+serve to certify that no other sources of the Nile can come from the
+south without being seen by me. No one will cut me out after this
+exploration is accomplished; and may the good Lord of all help me to
+show myself one of His stout-hearted servants, an honour to my children,
+and, perhaps, to my country and race.
+
+Our march extended from 26th December, 1871, till 18th February, 1872,
+or fifty-four days. This was over 300 miles, and thankful I am to reach
+Unyanyemb�, and the Temb� Kwikuru.
+
+I find, also, that the two headmen selected by the notorious, but covert
+slave-trader, Ludha Damji, have been plundering my stores from the 20th
+October, 1870, to 18th February, 1872, or nearly sixteen months. One has
+died of small-pox, and the other not only plundered my stores, but has
+broken open the lock of Mr. Stanley's storeroom, and plundered his
+goods. He declared that all my goods were safe, but when the list was
+referred to, and the goods counted, and he was questioned as to the
+serious loss, he at last remembered a bale of seven pieces of merikano,
+and three kanik�--or 304 yards, that he evidently had hidden. On
+questioning him about the boxes brought, he was equally ignorant, but at
+last said, "Oh! I remember a box of brandy where it went, and every one
+knows as well as I."
+
+_18th February, 1872._--This, and Mr. Stanley's goods being found in his
+possession, make me resolve to have done with him. My losses by the
+robberies of the Banian employed slaves are more than made up by Mr.
+Stanley, who has given me twelve bales of calico; nine loads = fourteen
+and a half bags of beads; thirty-eight coils of brass wire; a tent;
+boat; bath; cooking pots; twelve copper sheets; air beds; trowsers;
+jackets, &c. Indeed, I am again quite set up, and as soon as he can send
+men, not slaves, from the coast I go to my work, with a fair prospect of
+finishing it.
+
+_19th February, 1872._--Rest. Receive 38 coils of brass wire from Mr.
+Stanley, 14-1/2 bags of beads, 12 copper sheets, a strong canvas tent,
+boat-trowsers, nine loads of calico, a bath, cooking pots, a medicine
+chest, a good lot of tools, tacks, screw nails, copper nails, books,
+medicines, paper, tar, many cartridges, and some shot.
+
+_20th February, 1872._--To my great joy I got four flannel shirt from
+Agnes, and I was delighted to find that two pairs of fine English boots
+had most considerately been sent by my friend Mr. Waller. Mr. Stanley
+and I measured the calico and found that 733-3/4 yards were wanting,
+also two frasilahs of samsam, and one case of brandy. Othman pretended
+sickness, and blamed the dead men, but produced a bale of calico hidden
+in Thani's goods; this reduced the missing quantity to 436-1/2 yards.
+
+_21st February, 1872._--Heavy rains. I am glad we are in shelter. Masudi
+is an Arab, near to Ali bin Salem at Bagamoio. Bushir is an Arab, for
+whose slave he took a bale of calico. Masudi took this Chirongozi, who
+is not a slave, as a pagazi or porter. Robbed by Bushir at the 5th camp
+from Bagamoio. Othman confessed that he knew of the sale of the box of
+brandy, and brought also a shawl which he had forgotten: I searched him,
+and found Mr. Stanley's stores which he had stolen.
+
+_22nd February, 1872._--Service this morning, and thanked God for safety
+thus far. Got a packet of letters from an Arab.
+
+_23rd February, 1872._--Send to Governor for a box which he has kept for
+four years: it is all eaten by white ants: two fine guns and a pistol
+are quite destroyed, all the wood-work being eaten. The brandy bottles
+were broken to make it appear as if by an accident, but the corks being
+driven in, and corks of maize cobs used in their place, show that a
+thief has drunk the brandy and then broken the bottles. The tea was
+spoiled, but the china was safe, and the cheese good.
+
+_24th February, 1872._--Writing a despatch to Lord Granville against
+Banian slaving, and in favour of an English native settlement transfer.
+
+_25th February, 1872._--A number of Batusi women came to-day asking for
+presents. They are tall and graceful in form, with well-shaped small
+heads, noses, and mouths. They are the chief owners of cattle here. The
+war with Mirambo is still going on. The Governor is ashamed to visit me.
+
+_26th February, 1872._--Writing journal and despatch.
+
+_27th February, 1872._--Moene-mokaia is ill of heart disease and liver
+abscess. I sent him some blistering fluid. To-day we hold a Christmas
+feast.
+
+_28th February, 1872._--Writing journal. Syde bin Salem called; he is a
+China-looking man, and tried to be civil to us.
+
+_5th March, 1872._--My friend Moene-mokaia came yesterday; he is very
+ill of abscess in liver, which has burst internally. I gave him some
+calomel and jalap to open his bowels. He is very weak; his legs are
+swollen, but body emaciated.
+
+_6th March, 1872._--Repairing tent, and receiving sundry stores,
+Moenem-okaia died.
+
+_7th March, 1872._--Received a machine for filling cartridges.
+
+_8th and 9th March, 1872._--Writing.
+
+_10th March, 1872._--Writing. Gave Mr. Stanley a cheque for 5000 rupees
+on Stewart and Co., Bombay. This 500_l._ is to be drawn if Dr. Kirk has
+expended the rest of the 1000_l._ If not, then the cheque is to be
+destroyed by Mr. Stanley.
+
+_12th March, 1872._--Writing.
+
+_13th March, 1872._--Finished my letter to Mr. Bennett of the _New York
+Herald_, and Despatch No. 3 to Lord Granville.
+
+_14th March, 1872._--Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to his care my journal
+sealed with five seals: the impressions on them are those of an American
+gold coin, anna, and half anna, and cake of paint with royal arms.
+Positively not to be opened.
+
+
+[We must leave each heart to know its own bitterness, as the old
+explorer retraces his steps to the Temb� at Kwihara, there to hope and
+pray that good fortune may attend his companion of the last few months
+on his journey to the coast; whilst Stanley, duly impressed with the
+importance of that which he can reveal to the outer world, and laden
+with a responsibility which by this time can be fully comprehended,
+thrusts on through every difficulty.
+
+There is nothing for it now but to give Mr. Stanley time to get to
+Zanzibar, and to shorten by any means at hand the anxious period which
+must elapse before evidence can arrive that he has carried out the
+commission entrusted to him.
+
+As we shall see, Livingstone was not without some material to afford him
+occupation. Distances were calculated from native report; preparations
+were pushed on for the coming journey to Lake Bangweolo; apparatus was
+set in order. Travellers from all quarters dropped in from time to time:
+each contributed something about his own land; whilst waifs and strays
+of news from the expedition sent by the Arabs against Mirambo kept the
+settlement alive. To return to his Diary.
+
+How much seems to lie in their separating, when we remember that with
+the last shake of the hand, and the last adieu, came the final parting
+between Livingstone and all that could represent the interest felt by
+the world in his travels, or the sympathy of the white man!]
+
+_15th March, 1872._--Writing to send after Mr. Stanley by two of his
+men, who wait here for the purpose. Copied line of route, observations
+from Kabuir� to Casembe's, the second visit, and on to Lake Bangweolo;
+then the experiment of weight on watch-key at Nya�gw� and Lusiz�.
+
+_16th March, 1872._--Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, and two of mine to
+bring his last words, if any.
+
+[Sunday was kept in the quiet of the Temb�, on the 17th March. Two days
+after, and his birthday again comes round--that day which seems always
+to have carried with it such a special solemnity. He has yet time to
+look back on his marvellous deliverances, and the venture he is about to
+launch forth upon.]
+
+_19th March, 1872._--Birthday. My Jesus, my king, my life, my all; I
+again dedicate my whole self to Thee. Accept me, and grant, Gracious
+Father, that ere this year is gone I may finish my task. In Jesus' name
+I ask it. Amen, so let it be.
+
+DAVID LIVINGSTONE.
+
+[Many of his astronomical observations were copied out at this time, and
+minute records taken of the rainfall. Books saved up against a rainy day
+were read in the middle of the "Masika" and its heavy showers.]
+
+_21st March, 1872._--Read Baker's book. It is artistic and clever.
+He does good service in exploring the Nile slave-trade; I hope he may be
+successful in suppressing it.
+
+The Batusi are the cattle herds of all this Unyanyemb� region. They are
+very polite in address. The women have small compact, well-shaped heads
+and pretty faces; colour, brown; very pleasant to speak to; well-shaped
+figures, with small hands and feet; the last with high insteps, and
+springy altogether. Plants and grass are collected every day, and a fire
+with much smoke made to fumigate the cattle and keep off flies: the
+cattle like it, and the valleys are filled with smoke in the evening in
+consequence. The Baganda are slaves in comparison; black, with a tinge
+of copper-colour sometimes; bridgeless noses, large nostrils and lips,
+but well-made limbs and feet.
+
+[We see that the thread by which he still draws back a lingering word or
+two from Stanley has not parted yet.]
+
+_25th March, 1872._--Susi brought a letter back from Mr. Stanley. He had
+a little fever, but I hope he will go on safely.
+
+_26th March, 1872._--Rain of Masika chiefly by night. The Masika of 1871
+began on 23rd of March, and ended 30th of April.
+
+_27th March, 1872._--Reading. Very heavy rains.
+
+_28th March, 1872._--Moenyembegu asked for the loan of a "doti." He is
+starving, and so is the war-party at M'Futu; chaining their slaves
+together to keep them from running away to get food anywhere.
+
+_29th, 30th, 31st March, 1872._--Very rainy weather. Am reading 'Mungo
+Park's Travels;' they look so truthful.
+
+_1st April, 1872._--Read Young's 'Search after Livingstone;' thankful
+for many kind words about me. He writes like a gentleman.
+
+_2nd April, 1872._--Making a sounding-line out of lint left by Mr.
+Stanley. Whydah birds are now building their nests. The cock-bird brings
+fine grass seed-stalks off the top of my Temb�. He takes the end inside
+the nest and pulls it all in, save the ear. The hen keeps inside,
+constantly arranging the grass with all her might, sometimes making the
+whole nest move by her efforts. Feathers are laid in after the grass.
+
+_4th April, 1872._--We hear that Dugumb�'s men have come to Ujiji with
+fifty tusks. He went down Lualaba with three canoes a long way and
+bought much ivory. They were not molested by Monangungo as we were.
+
+My men whom I had sent to look for a book left by accident in a hut some
+days' journey off came back stopped by a flood in their track. Copying
+observations for Sir T. Maclear.
+
+_8th April, 1872._--An Arab called Seyed bin Mohamad Magibb� called. He
+proposes to go west to the country west of Katanga (Urang�).
+
+[It is very interesting to find that the results of the visit paid by
+Speke and Grant to Mt�za, King of Uganda, have already become well
+marked. As we see, Livingstone was at Unyanyemb� when a large trading
+party dropped in on their way back to the king, who, it will be
+remembered, lives on the north-western shores of the Victoria Nyassa.]
+
+_9th April, 1872._--About 150 Waganga of Mt�za carried a present to
+Seyed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, consisting of ivory and a young
+elephant.[17] He spent all the ivory in buying return presents of
+gunpowder, guns, soap, brandy, gin, &c., and they have stowed it all in
+this Temb�. This morning they have taken everything out to see if
+anything is spoilt. They have hundreds of packages.
+
+One of the Baganda told me yesterday that the name of the Deity is
+Dubal� in his tongue.
+
+_15th April, 1872._--Hung up the sounding-line on poles 1 fathom apart
+and tarred it. 375 fathoms of 5 strands.
+
+Ptolemy's geography of Central Africa seems to say that the science was
+then (second century A.D.) in a state of decadence from what was known
+to the ancient Egyptian priests as revealed to Herodotus 600 years
+before his day (or say B.C. 440). They seem to have been well aware by
+the accounts of travellers or traders that a great number of springs
+contributed to the origin of the Nile, but none could be pointed at
+distinctly as the "Fountains," except those I long to discover, or
+rather rediscover. Ptolemy seems to have gathered up the threads of
+ancient explorations, and made many springs (six) flow into two Lakes
+situated East and West of each other--the space above them being
+unknown. If the Victoria Lake were large, then it and the Albert would
+probably be the Lakes which Ptolemy meant, and it would be pleasant to
+call them Ptolemy's sources, rediscovered by the toil and enterprise of
+our countrymen Speke, Grant, and Baker--but unfortunately Ptolemy has
+inserted the small Lake "Coloe," nearly where the Victoria Lake stands,
+and one cannot say where his two Lakes are. Of Lakes Victoria,
+Bangweolo, Moero, Kamolondo--Lake Lincoln and Lake Albert, which two did
+he mean? The science in his time was in a state of decadence. Were two
+Lakes not the relics of a greater number previously known? What says the
+most ancient map known of Sethos II.'s time?
+
+_16th April, 1872._--Went over to visit Sultan bin Ali near
+Tabora--country open, plains sloping very gently down from low rounded
+granite hills covered with trees. Rounded masses of the light grey
+granite crop out all over them, but many are hidden by the trees: Tabora
+slopes down from some of the same hills that overlook Kwihara, where I
+live. At the bottom of the slope swampy land lies, and during the Masika
+it is flooded and runs westwards. The sloping plain on the North of the
+central drain is called Kaz�--that on the South is Tabora, and
+this is often applied to the whole space between the hills north and
+south. Sultan bin Ali is very hospitable. He is of the Bedawee Arabs,
+and a famous marksman with his long Arab gun or matchlock. He often
+killed hares with it, always hitting them in the head. He is about
+sixty-five years of age, black eyed, six feet high and inclined to
+stoutness, and his long beard is nearly all grey. He provided two
+bountiful meals for self and attendants.
+
+Called on Mohamad bin Nassur--recovering from sickness. He presented a
+goat and a large quantity of guavas. He gave the news that came from
+Dugumb�'s underling Nser�r�, and men now at Ujiji; they went S.W. to
+country called Nomb�, it is near Rua, and where copper is smelted. After
+I left them on account of the massacre at Nya�gw�, they bought much
+ivory, but acting in the usual Arab way, plundering and killing, they
+aroused the Bakuss' ire, and as they are very numerous, about 200 were
+killed, and none of Dugumb�'s party. They brought fifty tusks to Ujiji.
+We dare not pronounce positively on any event in life, but this looks
+like prompt retribution on the perpetrators of the horrible and
+senseless massacre of Nya�gw�. It was not vengeance by the relations of
+the murdered ones we saw shot and sunk in the Lualaba, for there is no
+communication between the people of Nya�gw� and the Bakuss or people of
+Nomb� of Lomam�--that massacre turned my heart completely against
+Dugumb�'s people. To go with them to Lomam� as my slaves were willing to
+do, was so repugnant I preferred to return that weary 400 or 600 miles
+to Ujiji. I mourned over my being baffled and thwarted all the way, but
+tried to believe that it was all for the best--this news shows that had
+I gone with these people to Lomam�, I could not have escaped the Bakuss
+spears, for I could not have run like the routed fugitives. I was
+prevented from going in order to save me from death. Many escapes from
+danger I am aware of: some make me shudder, as I think how near to
+death's door I came. But how many more instances of Providential
+protecting there may be of which I know nothing! But I thank most
+sincerely the good Lord of all for His goodness to me.
+
+_18th April, 1872._--I pray the good Lord of all to favour me so as to
+allow me to discover the ancient fountains of Herodotus, and if there is
+anything in the underground excavations to confirm the precious old
+documents ({~GREEK SMALL LETTER TAU~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER ALPHA WITH
+DASIA~} {~GREEK SMALL LETTER BETA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER IOTA~}{~GREEK
+SMALL LETTER BETA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER LAMDA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER IOTA
+WITH DASIA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER ALPHA~}), the Scriptures of truth, may
+He permit me to bring it to light, and give me wisdom to make a proper
+use of it.
+
+Some seem to feel that their own importance in the community is enhanced
+by an imaginary connection with a discovery or discoverer of the Nile
+sources, and are only too happy to figure, if only in a minor part, as
+theoretical discoverers--a theoretical discovery being a contradiction
+in terms.
+
+The cross has been used--not as a Christian emblem certainly, but from
+time immemorial as the form in which the copper ingot of Kata�ga is
+moulded--this is met with quite commonly, and is called Handipl�
+Mahandi. Our capital letter I (called Vigera) is the large form of the
+bars of copper, each about 60 or 70 lbs. weight, seen all over Central
+Africa and from Kata�ga.
+
+_19th April, 1872._--A roll of letters and newspapers, apparently, came
+to-day for Mr. Stanley. The messenger says he passed Mr. Stanley on the
+way, who said, "Take this to the Doctor;" this is erroneous. The Prince
+of Wales is reported to be dying of typhoid fever: the Princess Louise
+has hastened to his bedside.
+
+_20th April, 1872._--Opened it on 20th, and found nine 'New York
+Heralds' of December 1-9, 1871, and one letter for Mr. Stanley, which. I
+shall forward, and one stick of tobacco.
+
+_21st April, 1872._--Tarred the tent presented by Mr. Stanley.
+
+_23rd April, 1872._--Visited Kwikuru, and saw the chief of all the
+Banyamwezi (around whose Boma it is), about sixty years old, and
+partially paralytic. He told me that he had gone as far as Kata�ga by
+the same Fipa route I now propose to take, when a little boy following
+his father, who was a great trader.
+
+The name Banyamwezi arose from an ivory ornament of the shape of the new
+moon hung to the neck, with a horn reaching round over either shoulder.
+They believe that they came from the sea-coast, Mombas (?) of old, and
+when people inquired for them they said, "We mean the men of the moon
+ornament." It is very popular even now, and a large amount of ivory is
+cut down in its manufacture; some are made of the curved tusks of
+hippopotami. The Banyamwezi have turned out good porters, and they do
+most of the carrying work of the trade to and from the East Coast; they
+are strong and trustworthy. One I saw carried six frasilahs, or 200
+lbs., of ivory from Unyanyemb� to the sea-coast.
+
+The prefix "_Nya_" in Nyamwezi seems to mean place or locality, as Mya
+does on the Zambesi. If the name referred to the "moon ornament," as the
+people believe, the name would be Ba or Wamwezi, but Banyamwezi means
+probably the Ba--they or people--Nya, place--Mwezi, moon, people of the
+moon locality or moon-land.
+
+_Unyanyemb�_, place of hoes.
+
+Unyamb�wa.
+
+Unyangoma, place of drums.
+
+Nyanguru�, place of pigs.
+
+Nyangkondo.
+
+Nyarukw�.
+
+It must be a sore affliction to be bereft of one's reason, and the more
+so if the insanity takes the form of uttering thoughts which in a sound
+state we drive from us as impure.
+
+_25th and 26th April, 1872._--A touch of fever from exposure.
+
+_27th April, 1872._--Better, and thankful. Zahor died of small-pox here,
+after collecting much ivory at Fipa and Urungu. It is all taken up by
+Lewal�.[18]
+
+The rains seem nearly over, and are succeeded by very cold easterly
+winds; these cause fever by checking the perspiration, and are well
+known as eminently febrile. The Arabs put the cause of the fever to the
+rains drying up. In my experience it is most unhealthy during the rains
+if one gets wet; the chill is brought on, the bowels cease to act, and
+fever sets in. Now it is the cold wind that operates, and possibly this
+is intensified by the malaria of the drying-up surface. A chill from
+bathing on the 25th in cold water gave me a slight attack.
+
+_1st May, 1872._--Unyanyemb�: bought a cow for 11 dotis of merikano (and
+2 kanik� for calf), she gives milk, and this makes me independent.
+
+Headman of the Baganda from whom I bought it said, "I go off to pray."
+He has been taught by Arabs, and is the first proselyte they have
+gained. Baker thinks that the first want of Africans is to teach them to
+_want_. Interesting, seeing he was bored almost to death by Kamrasi
+wanting everything he had.
+
+Bought three more cows and calves for milk, they give good quantity
+enough for me and mine, and are small shorthorns: one has a hump--two
+black with white spots and one white--one black with white face: the
+Baganda were well pleased with the prices given, and so am I. Finished a
+letter for the _New York Herald,_ trying to enlist American zeal to stop
+the East Coast slave-trade: I pray for a blessing on it from the
+All-Gracious. [Through a coincidence a singular interest attaches to
+this entry. The concluding words of the letter he refers to are as
+follows:--]
+
+"All I can add in my loneliness is, may Heaven's rich blessing come down
+on everyone, American, English, or Turk, who will help to heal the open
+sore of the world."
+
+[It was felt that nothing could more palpably represent the man, and
+this quotation has consequently been inscribed upon the tablet erected
+to his memory near his grave in Westminster Abbey. It was noticed some
+time after selecting it that Livingstone wrote these words exactly one
+year before his death, which, as we shall see, took place on the 1st
+May, 1873.]
+
+_3rd May, 1872._--The entire population of Unyanyemb� called Arab is
+eighty males, many of these are country born, and are known by the
+paucity of beard and bridgeless noses, as compared with men from Muscat;
+the Muscatees are more honourable than the mainlanders, and more
+brave--altogether better looking and better everyway.
+
+If we say that the eighty so-called Arabs here have twenty dependants
+each, 1500 or 1600 is the outside population of Unyanyemb� in connection
+with the Arabs. It is called an ivory station, that means simply that
+elephant's tusks are the chief articles of trade. But little ivory comes
+to market, every Arab who is able sends bands of his people to different
+parts to trade: the land being free they cultivate patches of maize,
+dura, rice, beans, &c., and after one or two seasons, return with what
+ivory they may have secured. Ujiji is the only mart in the country, and
+it is chiefly for oil, grain, goats, salt, fish, beef, native produce of
+all sorts, and is held daily. A few tusks are sometimes brought, but it
+can scarcely be called an ivory mart for that. It is an institution
+begun and carried on by the natives in spite of great drawbacks from
+unjust Arabs. It resembles the markets of Manyuema, but is attended
+every day by about 300 people. No dura has been brought lately to Ujiji,
+because a Belooch man found the son of the chief of Mbwara Island
+peeping in at his women, and beat the young man, so that on returning
+home he died. The Mbwara people always brought much grain before that,
+but since that affair never come.
+
+The Arabs send a few freemen as heads of a party of slaves to trade.
+These select a friendly chief, and spend at least half these goods
+brought in presents on him, and in buying the best food the country
+affords for themselves. It happens frequently that the party comes back
+nearly empty handed, but it is the Banians that lose, and the Arabs are
+not much displeased. This point is not again occupied if it has been a
+dead loss.
+
+_4th May, 1872._--Many palavers about Mirambu's death having taken place
+and being concealed. Arabs say that he is a brave man, and the war is
+not near its end. Some northern natives called Bagoy� get a keg of
+powder and a piece of cloth, go and attack a village, then wait a month
+or so eating the food of the captured place, and come back for stores
+again: thus the war goes on. Prepared tracing paper to draw a map for
+Sir Thomas Maclear. Lewal� invites me to a feast.
+
+_7th May, 1872._--New moon last night. Went to breakfast with Lewal�. He
+says that the Mirambo war is virtually against himself as a Seyed Majid
+man. They wish to have him removed, and this would be a benefit.
+
+The Banyamwezi told the Arabs that they did not want them to go to
+fight, because when one Arab was killed all the rest ran away and the
+army got frightened.
+
+"Give us your slaves only and we will fight," say they.
+
+A Magoh� man gave charms, and they pressed Mirambo sorely. His brother
+sent four tusks as a peace-offering, and it is thought that the end is
+near. His mother was plundered, and lost all her cattle.
+
+_9th May, 1872._--No fight, though it was threatened yesterday: they all
+like to talk a great deal before striking a blow. They believe that in
+the multitude of counsellors there is safety. Women singing as they
+pound their grain into meal,--"Oh, the march of Bwanamokolu to Kata�ga!
+Oh, the march to Kata�ga and back to Ujiji!--Oh, oh, oh!" Bwanamokolu
+means the great or old gentleman. Batusi women are very keen traders,
+and very polite and pleasing in their address and pretty way of
+speaking.
+
+I don't know how the great loving Father will bring all out right at
+last, but He knows and will do it.
+
+The African's idea seems to be that they are within the power of a power
+superior to themselves--apart from and invisible: good; but frequently
+evil and dangerous. This may have been the earliest religious feeling of
+dependence on a Divine power without any conscious feeling of its
+nature. Idols may have come in to give a definite idea of superior
+power, and the primitive faith or impression obtained by Revelation
+seems to have mingled with their idolatry without any sense of
+incongruity. (See Micah in Judges.)[19]
+
+The origin of the primitive faith in Africans and others, seems always
+to have been a divine influence on their dark minds, which has proved
+persistent in all ages. One portion of primitive belief--the continued
+existence of departed spirits--seems to have no connection whatever with
+dreams, or, as we should say, with "ghost seeing," for great agony is
+felt in prospect of bodily mutilation or burning of the body after
+death, as that is believed to render return to one's native land
+impossible. They feel as if it would shut them off from all intercourse
+with relatives after death. They would lose the power of doing good to
+those onceloved, and evil to those who deserved their revenge. Take the
+case of the slaves in the yoke, singing songs of hate and revenge
+against those who sold them into slavery. They thought it right so to
+harbour hatred, though most of the party had been sold for
+crimes--adultery, stealing, &c.--which they knew to be sins.
+
+If Baker's expedition should succeed in annexing the valley of the Nile
+to Egypt, the question arises,--Would not the miserable condition of the
+natives, when subjected to all the atrocities of the White Nile
+slave-traders, be worse under Egyptian dominion? The villages would be
+farmed out to tax-collectors, the women, children and boys carried off
+into slavery, and the free thought and feeling of the population placed
+under the dead weight of Islam. Bad as the situation now is, if Baker
+leaves it matters will grow worse. It is probable that actual experience
+will correct the fancies he now puts forth as to the proper mode of
+dealing with Africans.
+
+_10th May, 1872._--Hamees Wodin Tagh, my friend, is reported slain by
+the Makoa of a large village he went to fight. Other influential Arabs
+are killed, but full information has not yet arrived. He was in youth a
+slave, but by energy and good conduct in trading with the Masai and far
+south of Nyassa, and elsewhere, he rose to freedom and wealth. He had
+good taste in all his domestic arrangements, and seemed to be a good
+man. He showed great kindness to me on my arrival at Chitimbwa's.
+
+_11th May, 1872._--A serpent of dark olive colour was found dead at my
+door this morning, probably killed by a cat. Puss approaches very
+cautiously, and strikes her claws into the head with a blow delivered as
+quick as lightning; then holds the head down with both paws, heedless of
+the wriggling mass of coils behind it; she then bites the neck and
+leaves it, looking with interest to the disfigured head, as if she knew
+that therein had lain the hidden power of mischief. She seems to
+possess a little of the nature of the _Ichneumon_, which was sacred in
+Egypt from its destroying serpents. The serpent is in pursuit of mice
+when killed by puss.
+
+_12th May, 1872._--Singeri, the headman of the Baganda here, offered me
+a cow and calf yesterday, but I declined, as we were strangers both, and
+this is too much for me to take. I said that I would take ten cows at
+Mt�sa's if he offered them. I gave him a little medicine (arnica) for
+his wife, whose face was burned by smoking over gunpowder. Again he
+pressed the cow and calf in vain.
+
+The reported death of Hamees Wodin Tagh is contradicted. It was so
+circumstantial that I gave it credit, though the false reports in this
+land are one of its most marked characteristics. They are "enough to
+spear a sow."
+
+_13th May, 1872._--He will keep His word--the gracious One, full of
+grace and truth--no doubt of it. He said, "Him that cometh unto me, I
+will in nowise cast out," and "Whatsoever ye shall ask in my name I
+will give it." He WILL keep His word: then I can come and humbly
+present my petition, and it will be all right. Doubt is here
+inadmissible, surely.--D.L.
+
+Ajala's people, sent to buy ivory in Uganda, were coming back with some
+ten tusks and were attacked at Ugalla by robbers, and one free man
+slain: the rest threw everything down and fled. They came here with
+their doleful tale to-day.
+
+_14th May, 1872._--People came from Ujiji to-day, and report that many
+of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves have died of small-pox--Fundi and Suliman
+amongst them. Others sent out to get firewood have been captured by the
+Waha. Mohamad's chief slave, Othman, went to see the cause of their
+losses received a spear in the back, the point coming out at his
+breast. It is scarcely possible to tell how many of the slaves have
+perished since they were bought or captured, but the loss has been
+grievous.
+
+Lewal� off to Mfutu to loiter and not to fight. The Bagoy� don't wish
+Arabs to come near the scene of action, because, say they, "When one
+Arab is killed all the rest ran away, and they frighten us thereby. Stay
+at M'futu; we will do all the fighting." This is very acceptable advice.
+
+_16th May, 1872._--A man came from Ujiji to say one of the party at
+Kasongo's reports that a marauding party went thence to the island of
+Bazula north of them. They ferried them to an island, and in coming back
+they were assaulted by the islanders in turn. They speared two in canoes
+shoving off, and the rest, panic-struck, took to the water, and
+thirty-five were slain. It was a just punishment, and shows what the
+Manyuema can do, if aroused to right their wrongs. No news of Baker's
+party; but Abed and Hassani are said to be well, and far down the
+Lualaba. Nassur Masudi is at Kasongo's, probably afraid by the Zula
+slaughter to go further. They will shut their own market against
+themselves. Lewal� sends off letters to the Sultan to-day. I have no
+news to send, but am waiting wearily.
+
+_17th May, 1872._--Ailing. Making cheeses for the journey: good, but
+sour rather, as the milk soon turns in this climate, and we don't use
+rennet, but allow the milk to coagulate of itself, and it does thicken
+in half a day.
+
+_18th-19th May, 1872._--One of Dugumb�'s men came to-day from Ujiji. He
+confirms the slaughter of Matereka's people, but denies that of
+Dugumb�'s men. They went to Lomam� about eleven days west, and found it
+to be about the size of Luamo; it comes from a Lake, and goes to
+Lualaba, near the Kisingit�, a cataract. Dugumb� then sent his people
+down Lualaba, where much ivory is to be obtained. They secured a great
+deal of copper--1000 thick bracelets--on the south-west of Nyangw�, and
+some ivory, but not so much as they desired. No news of Abed. Lomam�
+water is black, and black scum comes up in it.
+
+_20th May, 1872._--Better. Very cold winds. The cattle of the Batusi
+were captured by the Arabs to prevent them going off with the Baganda:
+my four amongst them. I sent over for them and they were returned this
+morning. Thirty-five of Mohamad's slaves died of small-pox.
+
+_21st May, 1872._--The genuine Africans of this region have flattened
+nose-bridges; the higher grades of the tribes have prominent
+nose-bridges, and are on this account greatly admired by the Arabs. The
+Batusi here, the Balunda of Casembe, and Itawa of Nsama, and many
+Manyuema have straight noses, but every now and then you come to
+districts in which the bridgeless noses give the air of the low English
+bruiser class, or faces inclining to King Charles the Second's spaniels.
+The Arab progeny here have scanty beards, and many grow to a very great
+height--tall, gaunt savages; while the Muscatees have prominent
+nose-bridges, good beards, and are polite and hospitable.
+
+I wish I had some of the assurance possessed by others, but I am
+oppressed with the apprehension that after all it may turn out that I
+have been following the Congo; and who would risk being put into a
+cannibal pot, and converted into black man for it?
+
+_22nd May, 1872._--Baganga are very black, with a tinge of copper colour
+in some. Bridgeless noses all.
+
+_23rd May, 1872._--There seems but little prospect of Christianity
+spreading by ordinary means among Mohamadans. Their pride is a great
+obstacle, and is very industriously nurtured by its votaries. No new
+invention or increase of power on the part of Christians seems to
+disturb the self-complacent belief that ultimately all power and
+dominion in this world will fall into the hands of Moslems. Mohamad will
+appear at last in glory, with all his followers saved by him. When Mr.
+Stanley's Arab boy from Jerusalem told the Arab bin Saleh that he was a
+Christian, he was asked, "Why so, don't you know that all the world will
+soon be Mohamadan? Jerusalem is ours; all the world is ours, and in a
+short time we shall overcome all." Theirs are great expectations!
+
+A family of ten Whydah birds _(Vidua purpurea)_ come to the
+pomegranate-trees in our yard. The eight young ones, full-fledged, are
+fed by the dam, as young pigeons are. The food is brought up from the
+crop without the bowing and bending of the pigeon. They chirrup briskly
+for food: the dam gives most, while the redbreasted cock gives one or
+two, and then knocks the rest away.
+
+_24th May, 1872._--Speke at Kaseng� islet inadvertently made a general
+statement thus: "The mothers of these savage people have infinitely less
+affection than many savage beasts of my acquaintance. I have seen a
+mother bear, galled by frequent shots, obstinately meet her death by
+repeatedly returning under fire whilst endeavouring to rescue her young
+from the grasp of intruding men. But here, for a simple loin-cloth or
+two, human mothers eagerly exchanged their little offspring, delivering
+them into perpetual bondage to my Beluch soldiers."--_Speke_, pp. 234,5.
+For the sake of the little story of "a bear mother," Speke made a
+general assertion on a very small and exceptional foundation. Frequent
+inquiries among the most intelligent and far-travelled Arabs failed to
+find confirmation of this child-selling, except in the very rare case of
+a child cutting the upper front teeth before the under, and because this
+child is believed to be "moiko" (_unlucky_), and certain to bring death
+into the family. It is called an Arab child, and sold to the first Arab,
+or even left at his door. This is the only case the Arabs know of
+child-selling. Speke had only two Beluch soldiers with him, and the idea
+that they loaded themselves with infants, at once stamps the tale as
+fabulous. He may have seen one sold, an extremely rare and exceptional
+case; but the inferences drawn are just like that of the Frenchman who
+thought the English so partial to suicide in November, that they might
+be seen suspended from trees in the common highways.
+
+In crossing Tanganyika three several times I was detained at the islet
+Kaseng� about ten weeks in all. On each occasion Arab traders were
+present, all eager to buy slaves, but none were offered, and they
+assured me that they had never seen the habit alleged to exist by Speke,
+though they had heard of the "unlucky" cases referred to. Everyone has
+known of poor little foundlings in England, but our mothers are not
+credited with less affection than she-bears.
+
+I would say to missionaries, Come on, brethren, to the real heathen. You
+have no idea how brave you are till you try. Leaving the coast tribes,
+and devoting yourselves heartily to the savages, as they are called, you
+will find, with some drawbacks and wickednesses, a very great deal to
+admire and love. Many statements made about them require confirmation.
+You will never see women selling their infants: the Arabs never did, nor
+have I. An assertion of the kind was made by mistake.
+
+Captive children are often sold, but not by their mothers. Famine
+sometimes reduces fathers to part with them, but the selling of
+children, as a general practice, is quite unknown, and, as Speke put it,
+quite a mistake.
+
+_25th and 26th May, 1872._--Cold weather. Lewal� sends for all Arabs to
+make a grand assault, as it is now believed that Mirambo is dead, and
+only his son, with few people, remains.
+
+Two Whydah birds, after their nest was destroyed several times, now try
+again in another pomegranate-tree in the yard. They put back their eggs,
+as they have the power to do, and build again.
+
+The trout has the power of keeping back the ova when circumstances are
+unfavourable to their deposit. She can quite absorb the whole, but
+occasionally the absorbents have too much to do; the ovarium, and
+eventually the whole abdomen, seems in a state of inflammation, as when
+they are trying to remove a mortified human limb; and the poor fish,
+feeling its strength leaving it, true to instinct, goes to the entrance
+to the burn where it ought to have spawned, and, unable to ascend, dies.
+The defect is probably the want of the aid of a milter.
+
+_27th May, 1872._--Another pair of the kind (in which the cock is
+redbreasted) had ten chickens, also rebuilds afresh. The red cock-bird
+feeds all the brood. Each little one puts his head on one side as he
+inserts his bill, chirruping briskly, and bothering him. The young ones
+lift up a feather as a child would a doll, and invite others to do the
+same, in play. So, too, with another pair. The cock skips from side to
+side with a feather in his bill, and the hen is pleased: nature is full
+of enjoyment. Near Kasanganga's I saw boys shooting locusts that settled
+on the ground with little bows and arrows.
+
+Cock Whydah bird died in the night. The brood came and chirruped to it
+for food, and tried to make it feed them, as if not knowing death!
+
+A wagtail dam refused its young a caterpillar till it had been
+killed--she ran away from it, but then gave it when ready to be
+swallowed. The first smile of an infant with its toothless gums is one
+of the pleasantest sights in nature. It is innocence claiming kinship,
+and asking to be loved in its helplessness.
+
+_28th May, 1872._--Many parts of this interior land present most
+inviting prospects for well-sustained efforts of private benevolence.
+Karagu�, for instance, with its intelligent friendly chief Rumainyika
+(Speke's Rumanika), and Bouganda, with its teeming population, rain, and
+friendly chief, who could easily be swayed by an energetic prudent
+missionary. The evangelist must not depend on foreign support other
+than an occasional supply of beads and calico; coffee is indigenous, and
+so is sugar-cane. When detained by ulcerated feet in Manyuema I made
+sugar by pounding the cane in the common wooden mortar of the country,
+squeezing out the juice very hard and boiling it till thick; the defect
+it had was a latent acidity, for which I had no lime, and it soon all
+fermented. I saw sugar afterwards at Ujiji made in the same way, and
+that kept for months. Wheat and rice are cultivated by the Arabs in all
+this upland region; the only thing a missionary needs in order to secure
+an abundant supply is to follow the Arab advice as to the proper season
+for sowing. Pomegranates, guavas, lemons and oranges are abundant in
+Unyanyemb�; mangoes flourish, and grape vines are beginning to be
+cultivated; papaws grow everywhere. Onions, radishes, pumpkins and
+watermelons prosper, and so would most European vegetables, if the
+proper seasons were selected for planting, and the most important point
+attended to in bringing the seeds. These must never be soldered in tins
+or put in close boxes; a process of sweating takes place when they are
+confined, as in a box or hold of the ship, and the power of vegetating
+is destroyed, but garden seeds put up in common brown paper, and hung in
+the cabin on the voyage, and not exposed to the direct rays of the sun
+afterwards, I have found to be as good as in England.
+
+It would be a sort of Robinson Crusoe life, but with abundant materials
+for surrounding oneself with comforts, and improving the improvable
+among the natives. Clothing would require but small expense: four suits
+of strong tweed served me comfortably for five years. Woollen clothing
+is the best; if all wool, it wears long and prevents chills. The
+temperature here in the beginning of winter ranges from 62� to 75� Fahr.
+In summer it seldom goes above 84�, as the country generally is from
+3600 to 4000 feet high. Gently undulating plains with outcropping
+tree-covered granite hills on the ridges and springs in valleys will
+serve as a description of the country.
+
+_29th May, 1872._--Halima ran away in a quarrel with Ntao�ka: I went
+over to Sultan bin Ali and sent a note after her, but she came back of
+her own accord, and only wanted me to come outside and tell her to
+enter. I did so, and added, "You must not quarrel again." She has been
+extremely good ever since I got her from Katombo or Moene-mokaia: I
+never had to reprove her once. She is always very attentive and clever,
+and never stole, nor would she allow her husband to steal. She is the
+best spoke in the wheel; this her only escapade is easily forgiven, and
+I gave her a warm cloth for the cold, by way of assuring her that I had
+no grudge against her. I shall free her, and buy her a house and garden
+at Zanzibar, when we get there.[20] Smokes or haze begins, and birds,
+stimulated by the cold, build briskly.
+
+_30th May, 1872, Sunday._--Sent over to Sultan bin Ali, to write another
+note to Lewal�, to say first note not needed.
+
+_31st May, 1872._--The so-called Arab war with Mirambo drags its slow
+length along most wearily. After it is over then we shall get Banyamwezi
+pagazi in abundance. It is not now known whether Mirambo is alive or
+not: some say that he died long ago, and his son keeps up his state
+instead.
+
+In reference to this Nile source I have been kept in perpetual doubt and
+perplexity. I know too much to be positive. Great Lualaba, or Lualubba,
+as Manyuema say, may turn out to be the Congo and Nile, a shorter river
+after all--the fountains flowing north and south seem in favour of its
+being the Nile. Great westing is in favour of the Congo. It would be
+comfortable to be positive like Baker. "Every drop from the passing
+shower to the roaring mountain torrent must fall into Albert Lake, a
+giant at its birth." How soothing to be positive.
+
+_1st June, 1872._--Visited by Jemadar Hamees from Katanga, who gives the
+following information.
+
+UNYANYEMB�, _Tuesday_.--Hamees bin Jumaadarsabel, a Beluch, came here
+from Katanga to-day. He reports that the three Portuguese traders, J�o,
+Domasiko, and Domasho, came to Katanga from Matiamvo. They bought
+quantities of ivory and returned: they were carried in Mashilahs[21] by
+slaves. This Hamees gave them pieces of gold from the rivulet there
+between the two copper or malachite hills from which copper is dug. He
+says that Tipo Tipo is now at Katanga, and has purchased much ivory from
+Kayomba or Kayombo in Rua. He offers to guide me thither, going first to
+Mer�r�'s, where Amran Masudi has now the upper hand, and Mer�r� offers
+to pay all the losses he has caused to Arabs and others. Two letters
+were sent by the Portuguese to the East Coast, one is in Amran's hands.
+Hamees Wodin Tagh is alive and well. These Portuguese went nowhere from
+Katanga, so that they have not touched the sources of the Nile, for
+which I am thankful.
+
+Tipo Tipo has made friends with Merosi, the Monyamwez� headman at
+Katanga, by marrying his daughter, and has formed the plan of assaulting
+Casembe in conjunction with him because Casembe put six of Tipo Tipo's
+men to death. He will now be digging gold at Katanga till this man
+returns with gunpowder.
+
+[Many busy calculations are met with here which are too involved to be
+given in detail. At one point we see a rough conjecture as to the length
+of the road through Fipa.]
+
+On looking at the projected route by Mer�r�'s I seethat it will be a
+saving of a large angle into Fipa = 350 into Basango country S.S.W. or
+S. and by W., this comes into Lat. 10' S., and from this W.S.W. 400' to
+Long. of Katanga, skirting Bangweolo S. shore in 12� S. = the whole
+distance = 750', say 900'.
+
+[Further on we see that he reckoned on his work occupying him till
+1874.]
+
+If Stanley arrived the 1st of May at Zanzibar:--allow = 20 days to get
+men and settle with them = May 20th, men leave Zanzibar 22nd of May =
+now 1st of June.
+
+    On the road may be                      10 days
+    Still to come 30 days, June             30   "
+                                            --
+    Ought to arrive 10th or 15th of July    40   "
+
+14th of June = Stanley being away now 3 months; say he left Zanzibar
+24th of May = at Aden 1st of June = Suez 8th of June, near Malta 14th of
+June.
+
+Stanley's men may arrive in July next. Then engage pagazi half a month =
+August, 5 months of this year will remain for journey, the whole of 1873
+will be swallowed up in work, but in February or March, 1874, please the
+Almighty Disposer of events, I shall complete my task and retire.
+
+_2nd June, 1872._--A second crop here, as in Angola. The lemons and
+pomegranates are flowering and putting out young fruits anew, though the
+crops of each have just been gathered. Wheat planted a month ago is now
+a foot high, and in three months will be harvested. The rice and dura
+are being reaped, and the hoes are busy getting virgin land ready.
+Beans, and Madagascar underground beans, voandzeia and ground-nuts are
+ripe now. Mangoes are formed; the weather feels cold, min. 62�, max.
+74�, and stimulates the birds to pair and build, though they are of
+broods scarcely weaned from being fed by their parents. Bees swarm and
+pass over us. Sky clear, with fleecy clouds here and there.
+
+_7th June, 1872._--Sultan bin Ali called. He says that the path by Fipa
+is the best, it has plenty of game, and people are friendly.[22] By
+going to Amran I should get into the vicinity of Mer�r�, and possibly be
+detained, as the country is in a state of war. The Beluch would
+naturally wish to make a good thing of me, as he did of Speke. I gave
+him a cloth and arranged the Sungomaz� beads, but the box and beads
+weigh 140 lbs., or two men's loads. I visited Lewal�. Heard of Baker
+going to Unyoro Water, Lake Albert. Lewal� praises the road by
+Moeneyungo and Mer�r�, and says he will give a guide, but he never went
+that way.
+
+_10th June, 1872._--Othman, our guide from Ujiji hither, called to-day,
+and says positively that the way by Fipa is decidedly the shortest and
+easiest: there is plenty of game, and the people are all friendly. He
+reports that Mirambo's headman, Merungw�, was assaulted and killed, and
+all his food, cattle, and grain used. Mirambo remains alone. He has, it
+seems, inspired terror in the Arab and Banyamwezi mind by his charms,
+and he will probably be allowed to retreat north by flight, and the war
+for a season close; if so, we shall get plenty of Banyamwezi pagazi, and
+be off, for which I earnestly long and pray.
+
+_13th June, 1872._--Sangara, one of Mr. Stanley's men, returned from
+Bagamoio, and reports that my caravan is at Ugogo. He arrived to-day,
+and reports that Stanley and the American Consul acted like good
+fellows, and soon got a party of over fifty off, as he heard while at
+Bagamoio, and he left. The main body, he thinks, are in Ugogo. Hecame
+on with the news, but the letters were not delivered to him. I do most
+fervently thank the good Lord of all for His kindness to me through
+these gentlemen. The men will come here about the end of this month.
+Bombay happily pleaded sickness as an excuse for not re-engaging, as
+several others have done. He saw that I got a clear view of his
+failings, and he could not hope to hoodwink me.
+
+After Sangara came, I went over to Kukuru to see what the Lewal� had
+received, but he was absent at Tabora. A great deal of shouting, firing
+of guns, and circumgyration by the men who had come from the war just
+outside the stockade of Nkisiwa (which is surrounded by a hedge of dark
+euphorbia and stands in a level hollow) was going on as we descended the
+gentle slope towards it. Two heads had been put up as trophies in the
+village, and it was asserted that Marukw�, a chief man of Mirambo, had
+been captured at Uvinza, and his head would soon come too. It actually
+did come, and was put up on a pole.
+
+I am most unfeignedly thankful that Stanley and Webb have acted nobly.
+
+_14th June, 1872._--On 22nd June Stanley was 100 days gone: he must be
+in London now.
+
+Seyed bin Mohamad Margibb� called to say that he was going off towards
+Katanga to-morrow by way of Amran. I feel inclined to go by way of Fipa
+rather, though I should much like to visit Mer�r�. By the bye, he says
+too that the so-called Portuguese had filed teeth, and are therefore
+Mambarr�.
+
+_15th June, 1872._--Lewal� doubts Sangara on account of having brought
+no letters. Nothing can be believed in this land unless it is in black
+and white, and but little even then; the most circumstantial details are
+often mere figments of the brain. The one half one hears may safely be
+called false, and the other half doubtful or _not proven._
+
+Sultan bin Ali doubts Sangara's statements also, but says, "Let us wait
+and see the men arrive, to confirm or reject them." I incline to belief,
+because he says that he did not see the men, but heard of them at
+Bagamoio.
+
+_16th June, 1872._--Nsar� chief, Msalala, came selling from Sakuma on
+the north--a jocular man, always a favourite with the ladies. He offered
+a hoe as a token of friendship, but I bought it, as we are, I hope, soon
+going off, and it clears the tent floor and ditch round it in wet
+weather.
+
+Mirambo made a sortie against a headman in alliance with the Arabs, and
+was quite successful, which shows that he is not so much reduced as
+reports said.
+
+Boiling points to-day about 9 A.M. There is a full degree of difference
+between boiling in an open pot and in Casella's apparatus.
+
+    205�.1 open pot  }
+                     }  69� air.
+    206�.1 Casella   }
+
+About 200 Baguha came here, bringing much ivory and palm oil for sale
+because there is no market nor goods at Ujiji for the produce. A few
+people came also from Buganda, bringing four tusks and an invitation to
+Seyed Burghash to send for two housefuls of ivory which Mt�za has
+collected.
+
+_18th June, 1872._--Sent over a little quinine to Sultan bin Ali--he is
+ailing of fever--and a glass of "Moiko" the shameful!
+
+The Ptolemaic map defines people according to their food. The
+Elephantophagi, the Struthiophagi, the Ichthyophagi, and Anthropophagi.
+If we followed the same sort of classification our definition would be
+the drink, thus:--the tribe of stout-guzzlers, the roaring
+potheen-fuddlers, the whisky-fishoid-drinkers, the vin-ordinaire
+bibbers, the lager-beer-swillers, and an outlying tribe of the brandy
+cocktail persuasion.
+
+[His keen enjoyment in noticing the habits of animals and birds serves
+a good purpose whilst waiting wearily and listening to disputed rumours
+concerning the Zanzibar porters. The little orphan birds seem to get on
+somehow or other; perhaps the Englishman's eye was no bad protection,
+and his pity towards the fledglings was a good lesson, we will hope, to
+the children around the Temb� at Kwihara--]
+
+_19th June, 1872._--Whydahs, though full fledged, still gladly take a
+feed from their dam, putting down the breast to the ground and cocking
+up the bill and chirruping in the most engaging manner and winning way
+they know. She still gives them a little, but administers a friendly
+shove off too. They all pick up feathers or grass, and hop from side to
+side of their mates, as if saying, "Come, let us play at making little
+houses." The wagtail has shaken her young quite off, and has a new nest.
+She warbles prettily, very much like a canary, and is extremely active
+in catching flies, but eats crumbs of bread-and-milk too. Sun-birds
+visit the pomegranate flowers and eat insects therein too, as well as
+nectar. The young whydah birds crouch closely together at night for
+heat. They look like a woolly ball on a branch. By day they engage in
+pairing and coaxing each other. They come to the same twig every night.
+Like children they try and lift heavy weights of feathers above their
+strength.
+
+[How fully he hoped to reach the hill from which he supposed the Nile to
+flow is shown in the following words written at this time:--]
+
+I trust in Providence still to help me. I know the four rivers Zambesi,
+Kafu�, Luapula, and Lomam�, their fountains must exist in one region.
+
+An influential Muganda is dead of dysentery: no medicine had any effect
+in stopping the progress of the disease. This is much colder than his
+country. Another is blind from ophthalmia.
+
+Great hopes are held that the war which has lasted a full year will now
+be brought to a close, and Mirambo either be killed or flee. As he is
+undoubtedly an able man, his flight may involve much trouble and
+guerilla warfare.
+
+Clear cold weather, and sickly for those who have only thin clothing,
+and not all covered.
+
+The women work very hard in providing for their husbands' kitchens. The
+rice is the most easily prepared grain: three women stand round a huge
+wooden mortar with pestles in their hands, a gallon or so of the
+unhusked rice--called Mopunga here and paddy in India--is poured in, and
+the three heavy pestles worked in exact time; each jerks up her body as
+she lifts the pestle and strikes it into the mortar with all her might,
+lightening the labour with some wild ditty the while, though one hears
+by the strained voice that she is nearly out of breath. When the husks
+are pretty well loosened, the grain is put into a large plate-shaped
+basket and tossed so as to bring the chaff to one side, the vessel is
+then heaved downwards and a little horizontal motion given to it which
+throws the refuse out; the partially cleared grain is now returned to
+the mortar, again pounded and cleared of husks, and a semicircular toss
+of the vessel sends all the remaining unhusked grain to one side, which
+is lifted out with the hand, leaving the chief part quite clean: they
+certainly work hard and well. The maize requires more labour by far: it
+is first pounded to remove the outer scales from the grain, then steeped
+for three days in water, then pounded, the scales again separated by the
+shallow-basket tossings, then pounded fine, and the fine white flour
+separated by the basket from certain hard rounded particles, which are
+cooked as a sort of granular porridge--"Mty�ll�."
+
+When Ntao�ka chose to follow us rather than go to the coast, I did not
+like to have a fine-looking woman among us unattached, and proposed that
+she should marry one of my three worthies, Chuma, Gardner, or Mabruki,
+but she smiled at the idea. Chuma was evidently too lazy ever to get a
+wife; the other two were contemptible in appearance, and she has a good
+presence and is buxom. Chuma promised reform: "he had been lazy, he
+admitted, because he had no wife." Circumstances led to the other women
+wishing Ntao�ka married, and on my speaking to her again she consented.
+I have noticed her ever since working hard from morning to night: the
+first up in the cold mornings, making fire and hot water, pounding,
+carrying water, wood, sweeping, cooking.
+
+_21st June, 1872._--No jugglery or sleight-of-hand, as was recommended
+to Napoleon III., would have any effect in the civilization of the
+Africans; they have too much good sense for that. Nothing brings them to
+place thorough confidence in Europeans but a long course of well-doing.
+They believe readily in the supernatural as effecting any new process or
+feat of skill, for it is part of their original faith to ascribe
+everything above human agency to unseen spirits. Goodness or
+unselfishness impresses their minds more than any kind of skill or
+power. They say, "You have different hearts from ours; all black men's
+hearts are bad, but yours are good." The prayer to Jesus for a new heart
+and right spirit at once commends itself as appropriate. Music has great
+influence on those who have musical ears, and often leads to conversion.
+
+[Here and there he gives more items of intelligence from the war which
+afford a perfect representation of the rumours and contradictions which
+harass the listener in Africa, especially if he is interested, as
+Livingstone was, in the re-establishment of peace between the
+combatants.]
+
+Lewal� is off to the war with Mirambo; he is to finish it now! A
+continuous fusilade along his line of march west will expend much
+powder, but possibly get the spirits up. If successful, we shall get
+Banyamwezi pagazi in numbers.
+
+Mirambo is reported to have sent 100 tusks and 100 slaves towards the
+coast to buy gunpowder. If true, the war is still far from being
+finished; but falsehood is fashionable.
+
+_26th June, 1872._--Went over to Kwikuru and engaged Mohamad bin Seyde
+to speak to Nkasiwa for pagazi; he wishes to go himself. The people sent
+by Mirambo to buy gunpowder in Ugogo came to Kitambi, he reported the
+matter to Nkasiwa that they had come, and gave them pombe. When Lewal�
+heard it, he said, "Why did Kitambi not kill them; he is a partaker in
+Mirambo's guilt?" A large gathering yesterday at M'futu to make an
+assault on the last stockade in hostility.
+
+[A few notes in another pocket-book are placed under this date. Thus:--]
+
+_24th June, 1872._--A continuous covering of forests is a sign of a
+virgin country. The earlier seats of civilization are bare and treeless
+according to Humboldt. The civilization of the human race sets bounds to
+the increase of forests. It is but recently that sylvan decorations
+rejoice the eyes of the Northern Europeans. The old forests attest the
+youthfulness of our civilization. The aboriginal woods of Scotland are
+but recently cut down. (Hugh Miller's _Sketches_, p. 7.)
+
+Mosses often evidence the primitive state of things at the time of the
+Roman invasion. Roman axe like African, a narrow chisel-shaped tool,
+left sticking in the stumps.
+
+The medical education has led me to a continual tendency to suspend the
+judgment. What a state of blessedness it would have been had I possessed
+the dead certainty of the homoeopathic persuasion, and as soon as I
+found the Lakes Bangweolo, Moero, and Kamolondo pouring out their waters
+down the great central valley, bellowed out, "Hurrah! Eureka!" and gone
+home in firm and honest belief that I had settled it, and no mistake.
+Instead of that I am even now not at all "cock-sure" that I have not
+been following down what may after all be the Congo.
+
+_25th June, 1872._--Send over to Tabora to try and buy a cow from
+Basakuma, or northern people, who have brought about 100 for sale. I got
+two oxen for a coil of brass wire and seven dotis of cloth.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[17] This elephant was subsequently sent by Dr. Kirk to Sir Philip
+Wodehouse, Governor of Bombay. When in Zanzibar it was perfectly tame.
+We understand it is now in the possession of Sir Solar Jung, to whom
+it was presented by Sir Philip Wodehouse.--Ed.
+
+[18] Lewal� appears to be the title by which the Governor of the town
+is called.
+
+[19] Judges xviii.
+
+[20] Halima followed the Doctor's remains to Zanzibar. It does seem
+hard that his death leaves her long services entirely unrequited.--ED.
+
+[21] The Portuguese name for palanquin.
+
+[22] It will be seen that this was fully confirmed afterwards by
+Livingstone's men: the fact may be of importance to future
+travellers.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower.
+
+
+[And now the long-looked for letters came in by various hands, but with
+little regularity. It is not here necessary to refer to the withdrawal
+of the Livingstone Relief Expedition which took place as soon as Mr.
+Stanley confronted Lieutenant Dawson on his way inland. Suffice it to
+say that the various members of this Expedition, of which his second
+son, Mr. Oswell Livingstone, was one, had already quitted Africa for
+England when these communications reached Unyanyemb�.]
+
+_27th June, 1872._--Received a letter from Oswell yesterday, dated
+Bagamoio, 14th May, which awakened thankfulness, anxiety, and deep
+sorrow.
+
+_28th June, 1872._--Went over to Kwikuru yesterday to speak about
+pagazi. Nkasiwa was off at M'futu to help in the great assault on
+Mirambo, which is hoped to be the last. But Mohamad bin Seyed promised
+to arrange with the chief on his return. I was told that Nkasiwa has the
+head of Morukw� in a kirindo or band-box, made of the inner bark of a
+tree, and when Morukw�'s people have recovered they will come and redeem
+it with ivory and slaves, and bury it in his grave, as they did the head
+of Ishbosheth in Abner's grave in Hebron.
+
+Dugumb�'s man, who went off to Ujiji to bring ivory, returned to-day,
+having been attacked by robbers of Mirambo. The pagazi threw down all
+their loads and ran; none were killed, but they lost all.
+
+_29th June, 1872._--Received a packet from Sheikh bin Nasib containing a
+letter for him and one 'Pall Mall Gazette,' one Overland Mail and four
+Punches. Provision has been made for my daughter by Her Majesty's
+Government of 300_l._, but I don't understand the matter clearly.
+
+_2nd July, 1872._--Make up a packet for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Webb, of
+Zanzibar: explain to Kirk, and beg him to investigate and punish, and
+put blame on right persons. Write Sir Bartle Frere and Agnes: send large
+packet of astronomical observations and sketch map to Sir Thomas Maclear
+by a native, Suleiman.
+
+_3rd July, 1872._--Received a note from Oswell, written in April last,
+containing the sad intelligence of Sir Roderick's departure from among
+us. Alas! alas! this is the only time in my life I ever felt inclined to
+use the word, and it bespeaks a sore heart: the best friend I ever
+had--true, warm, and abiding--he loved me more than I deserved: he looks
+down on me still. I must feel resigned to the loss by the Divine Will,
+but still I regret and mourn.
+
+Wearisome waiting, this; and yet the men cannot be here before the
+middle or end of this month. I have been sorely let and hindered in this
+journey, but it may have been all for the best. I will trust in Him to
+whom I commit my way.
+
+_5th July, 1872._--Weary! weary!
+
+_7th July, 1872._--Waiting wearily here, and hoping that the good and
+loving Father of all may favour me, and help me to finish my work
+quickly and well.
+
+Temperature at 6 A.M. 61�; feels cold. Winds blow regularly from the
+east; if it changes to N.W. brings a thick mantle of cold grey clouds. A
+typhoon did great damage at Zanzibar, wrecking ships and destroying
+cocoa-nuts, carafu, and all fruits: happened five days after Seyed
+Burghash's return from Mecca.
+
+At the Loangwa of Zumbo we came to a party of hereditary hippopotamus
+hunters, called Makembw� or Akombw�. They follow no other occupation,
+but when their game is getting scanty at one spot they remove to some
+other part of the Loangwa, Zambesi, or Shir�, and build temporary huts
+on an island, where their women cultivate patches: the flesh of the
+animals they kill is eagerly exchanged by the more settled people for
+grain. They are not stingy, and are everywhere welcome guests. I never
+heard of any fraud in dealing, or that they had been guilty of an
+outrage on the poorest: their chief characteristic is their courage.
+Their hunting is the bravest thing I ever saw. Each canoe is manned by
+two men; they are long light craft, scarcely half an inch in thickness,
+about eighteen inches beam, and from eighteen to twenty feet long. They
+are formed for speed, and shaped somewhat like our racing boats. Each
+man uses a broad short paddle, and as they guide the canoe slowly down
+stream to a sleeping hippopotamus not a single ripple is raised on the
+smooth water; they look as if holding in their breath, and communicate
+by signs only. As they come near the prey the harpooner in the bow lays
+down his paddle and rises slowly up, and there he stands erect,
+motionless, and eager, with the long-handled weapon poised at arm's
+length above his head, till coming close to the beast he plunges it with
+all his might in towards the heart. During this exciting feat he has to
+keep his balance exactly. His neighbour in the stern at once backs his
+paddle, the harpooner sits down, seizes his paddle, and backs too to
+escape: the animal surprised and wounded seldom returns the attack at
+this stage of the hunt. The next stage, however, is full of danger.
+
+The barbed blade of the harpoon is secured by a long and very strong
+rope wound round the handle: it is intended to come out of its socket,
+and while the iron head is firmly fixed in the animal's body the rope
+unwinds and the handle floats on the surface. The hunter next goes to
+the handle and hauls on the rope till he knows that he is right over the
+beast: when he feels the line suddenly slacken he is prepared to deliver
+another harpoon the instant that hippo.'s enormous jaws appear with a
+terrible grunt above the water. The backing by the paddles is again
+repeated, but hippo. often assaults the canoe, crunches it with his
+great jaws as easily as a pig would a bunch of asparagus, or shivers it
+with a kick by his hind foot. Deprived of their canoe the gallant
+comrades instantly dive and swim to the shore under water: they say that
+the infuriated beast looks for them on the surface, and being below they
+escape his sight. When caught by many harpoons the crews of several
+canoes seize the handles and drag him hither and thither till, weakened
+by loss of blood, he succumbs.
+
+This hunting requires the greatest skill, courage, and nerve that can be
+conceived--double armed and threefold brass, or whatever the �neid says.
+The Makombw� are certainly a magnificent race of men, hardy and active
+in their habits, and well fed, as the result of their brave exploits;
+every muscle is well developed, and though not so tall as some tribes,
+their figures are compact and finely proportioned: being a family
+occupation it has no doubt helped in the production of fine physical
+development. Though all the people among whom they sojourn would like
+the profits they secure by the flesh and curved tusks, and no game is
+preserved, I have met with no competitors to them except the Wayeiye of
+Lake Ngami and adjacent rivers.
+
+I have seen our dragoon officers perform fencing and managing their
+horses so dexterously that every muscle seemed trained to its fullest
+power and efficiency, and perhaps had they been brought up as Makombw�
+they might have equalled their daring and consummate skill: but we have
+no sport, except perhaps Indian tiger shooting, requiring the courage
+and coolness this enterprise demands. The danger may be appreciated if
+one remembers that no sooner is blood shed in the water than all the
+crocodiles below are immediately drawn up stream by the scent, and are
+ready to act the part of thieves in a London crowd, or worse.
+
+_8th July, 1872._--At noon, wet bulb 66�, dry 74�. These observations
+are taken from thermometers hung four feet from the ground on the cool
+side (south) of the house, and beneath an earthen roof with complete
+protection from wind and radiation. Noon known by the shadows being
+nearly perpendicular. To show what is endured by a traveller, the
+following register is given of the heat on a spot, four feet from the
+ground, protected from the wind by a reed fence, but exposed to the
+sun's rays, slanting a little.
+
+
+    Noon.   Wet Bulb 78�   Dry Bulb 102�
+    2 P.M.           77�             99�
+    3 P.M.           78�            102�
+    4 P.M.           72�             88� (Agreeable marching now.)
+    6 P.M.           66�             77�
+
+_9th July, 1872._--Clear and cold the general weather: cold is
+penetrating. War forces have gone out of M'futu and built a camp. Fear
+of Mirambo rules them all: each one is nervously anxious not to die, and
+in no way ashamed to own it. The Arabs keep out of danger: "Better to
+sleep in a whole skin" is their motto.
+
+_Noon_.--Spoke to Singeri about the missionary reported to be coming:
+he seems to like the idea of being taught and opening up the country by
+way of the Nile. I told him that all the Arabs confirmed Mtesa's
+cruelties, and that his people were more to blame than he: it was guilt
+before God. In this he agreed fully, but said, "What Arab was killed?"
+meaning, if they did not suffer how can they complain?
+
+    6 A.M.  Wet Bulb 55�   Dry Bulb  57� min. 55�
+    9 A.M.           74�             82�
+    Noon.            74�             98� (Now becomes too hot to march.)
+    3.30 P.M.        75�             90�
+
+_10th July, 1872._
+
+    6 A.M.           59�             65� min. 55�
+    Noon.            67�             77� shady.
+    3 P.M.           69�             81� cloudy.
+    5 P.M.           65�             75� cloudy.
+
+_10th July, 1872._--No great difficulty would be encountered in
+establishing a Christian Mission a hundred miles or so from the East
+Coast. The permission of the Sultan of Zanzibar would be necessary,
+because all the tribes of any intelligence claim relationship, or have
+relations with him; the Banyamwezi even call themselves his subjects,
+and so do others. His permission would be readily granted, if
+respectfully applied for through the English Consul. The Suaheli, with
+their present apathy on religious matters, would be no obstacle. Care to
+speak politely, and to show kindness to them, would not be lost labour
+in the general effect of the Mission on the country, but all discussion
+on the belief of the Moslems should be avoided; they know little about
+it. Emigrants from Muscat, Persia, and India, who at present possess
+neither influence nor wealth, would eagerly seize any formal or
+offensive denial of the authority of their Prophet to fan their own
+bigotry, and arouse that of the Suaheli. A few now assume an air of
+superiority in matters of worship, and would fain take the place of
+Mullams or doctors of the law, by giving authoritative dicta as to the
+times of prayer; positions to be observed; lucky and unlucky days; using
+cabalistic signs; telling fortunes; finding from the Koran when an
+attack may be made on any enemy, &c.; but this is done only in the field
+with trading parties. At Zanzibar, the regular Mullams supersede them.
+
+No objection would be made to teaching the natives of the country to
+read their own languages in the Roman character. No Arab has ever
+attempted to teach them the Arabic-Koran, they are called _guma_, hard,
+or difficult as to religion. This is not wonderful, since the Koran is
+never translated, and a very extraordinary desire for knowledge would be
+required to sustain a man in committing to memory pages and chapters of,
+to him, unmeaning gibberish. One only of all the native chiefs,
+Monyumgo, has sent his children to Zanzibar to be taught to read and
+write the Koran; and he is said to possess an unusual admiration of such
+civilization as he has seen among the Arabs. To the natives, the chief
+attention of the Mission should be directed. It would not be desirable,
+or advisable, to refuse explanation to others; but I have avoided giving
+offence to intelligent Arabs, who have pressed me, asking if I believed
+in Mohamad by saying, "No I do not: I am a child of Jesus bin Miriam,"
+avoiding anything offensive in my tone, and often adding that Mohamad
+found their forefathers bowing down to trees and stones, and did good to
+them by forbidding idolatry, and teaching the worship of the only One
+God. This, they all know, and it pleases them to have it recognised.
+
+It might be good policy to hire a respectable Arab to engage free
+porters, and conduct the Mission to the country chosen, and obtain
+permission from the chief to build temporary houses. If this Arab were
+well paid, it might pave the way for employing others to bring supplies
+of goods and stores not produced in the country, as tea, coffee, sugar.
+The first porters had better all go back, save a couple or so, who have
+behaved especially well. Trust to the people among whom you live for
+general services, as bringing wood, water, cultivation, reaping, smith's
+work, carpenter's work, pottery, baskets, &c. Educated free blacks from
+a distance are to be avoided: they are expensive, and are too much of
+gentlemen for your work. You may in a few months raise natives who will
+teach reading to others better than they can, and teach you also much
+that the liberated never know. A cloth and some beads occasionally will
+satisfy them, while neither the food, the wages, nor the work will
+please those who, being brought from a distance, naturally consider
+themselves missionaries. Slaves also have undergone a process which has
+spoiled them for life; though liberated young, everything of childhood
+and opening life possesses an indescribable charm. It is so with our own
+offspring, and nothing effaces the fairy scenes then printed on the
+memory. Some of my liberados eagerly bought green calabashes and
+tasteless squash, with fine fat beef, because this trash was their early
+food; and an ounce of meat never entered their mouths. It seems
+indispensable that each Mission should raise its own native agency. A
+couple of Europeans beginning, and carrying on a Mission without a staff
+of foreign attendants, implies coarse country fare, it is true, but this
+would be nothing to those who, at home amuse themselves with fastings,
+vigils, &c. A great deal of power is thus lost in the Church. Fastings
+and vigils, without a special object in view, are time run to waste.
+They are made to minister to a sort of self-gratification, instead of
+being turned to account for the good of others. They are like groaning
+in sickness. Some people amuse themselves when ill with continuous
+moaning. The forty days of Lent might be annually spent in visiting
+adjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable hunger and thirst with a good
+grace. Considering the greatness of the object to be attained, men
+might go without sugar, coffee, tea, &c. I went from September 1866 to
+December 1868 without either. A trader, at Casembe's, gave me a dish
+cooked with honey, and it nauseated from its horrible sweetness, but at
+100 miles inland, supplies could be easily obtained.
+
+The expenses need not be large. Intelligent Arabs inform me that, in
+going from Zanzibar to Casembe's, only 3000 dollars' worth are required
+by a trader, say between 600_l._ or 700_l._, and he may be away three or
+more years; paying his way, giving presents to the chiefs, and filling
+200 or 300 mouths. He has paid for, say fifty muskets, ammunition,
+flints, and may return with 4000 lbs. of ivory, and a number of slaves
+for sale; all at an outlay of 600_l._ or 700_l._ With the experience I
+have gained now, I could do all I shall do in this expedition for a like
+sum, or at least for 1000_l._ less than it will actually cost me.
+
+_12th July, 1872._--Two men come from Syde bin Habib report fighting as
+going on at discreet distances against Mirambo.
+
+Sheikh But, son of Mohamad bin Saleh, is found guilty of stealing a tusk
+of 2-1/2 frasilahs from the Lewal�. He has gone in disgrace to fight
+Mirambo: his father is disconsolate, naturally. Lewal� has been
+merciful.
+
+When endeavouring to give some account of the slave-trade of East
+Africa, it was necessary to keep far within the truth, in order not to
+be thought guilty of exaggeration; but in sober seriousness the subject
+does not admit of exaggeration. To overdraw its evils is a simple
+impossibility. The sights I have seen, though common incidents of the
+traffic, are so nauseous that I always strive to drive them from memory.
+In the case of most disagreeable recollections I can succeed, in time,
+in consigning them to oblivion, but the slaving scenes come back
+unbidden, and make me start up at dead of night horrified by their
+vividness. To some this may appear weak and unphilosophical, since it is
+alleged that the whole human race has passed through the process of
+development. We may compare cannibalism to the stone age, and the times
+of slavery to the iron and bronze epochs--slavery is as natural a step
+in human development as from bronze to iron.
+
+Whilst speaking of the stone age I may add that in Africa I have never
+been fortunate enough to find one flint arrowhead or any other flint
+implement, though I had my eyes about me as diligently as any of my
+neighbours. No roads are made; no lands levelled; no drains digged; no
+quarries worked, nor any of the changes made on the earth's surface that
+might reveal fragments of the primitive manufacture of stone. Yet but
+little could be inferred from the negative evidence, were it not
+accompanied by the fact that flint does not exist in any part south of
+the equator. Quartz might have been used, but no remains exist, except
+the half-worn millstones, and stones about the size of oranges, used for
+chipping and making rough the nether millstone. Glazed pipes and
+earthenware used in smelting iron, show that iron was smelted in the
+remotest ages in Africa. These earthenware vessels, and fragments of
+others of a finer texture, were found in the delta of the Zambesi and in
+other parts in close association with fossil bones, which, on being
+touched by the tongue, showed as complete an absence of animal matter as
+the most ancient fossils known in Europe. They were the bones of
+animals, as hippopotami, water hogs, antelopes, crocodiles, identical
+with those now living in the country. These were the primitive fauna of
+Africa, and if vitrified iron from the prodigious number of broken
+smelting furnaces all over the country was known from the remotest
+times, the Africans seem to have had a start in the race, at a time when
+our progenitors were grubbing up flints to save a miserable existence by
+the game they might kill. Slave-trading seems to have been coeval with
+the knowledge of iron. The monuments of Egypt show that this curse has
+venerable antiquity. Some people say, "If so ancient, why try to stop
+an old established usage now?" Well, some believe that the affliction
+that befel the most ancient of all the patriarchs, Job, was small-pox.
+Why then stop the ravages of this venerable disease in London and New
+York by vaccination?
+
+But no one expects any benevolent efforts from those who cavil and carp
+at efforts made by governments and peoples to heal the enormous open
+sore of the world. Some profess that they would rather give "their mite"
+for the degraded of our own countrymen than to "niggers"! Verily it is
+"a mite," and they most often forget, and make a gift of it to
+themselves. It is almost an axiom that those who do most for the heathen
+abroad are most liberal for the heathen at home. It is to this class we
+turn with hope. With others arguments are useless, and the only answer I
+care to give is the remark of an English sailor, who, on seeing
+slave-traders actually at their occupation, said to his companion,
+"Shiver my timbers, mate, if the devil don't catch these fellows, we
+might as well have no devil at all."
+
+In conversing with a prince at Johanna, one of the Comoro islands lying
+off the north end of Madagascar, he took occasion to extol the wisdom of
+the Arabs in keeping strict watch over their wives. On suggesting that
+their extreme jealousy made them more like jailers than friends of their
+wives, or, indeed, that they thus reduced themselves to the level of the
+inferior animals, and each was like the bull of a herd and not like a
+reasonable man--"fuguswa"--and that they gave themselves a vast deal of
+trouble for very small profit; he asserted that the jealousy was
+reasonable because all women were bad, they could not avoid going
+astray. And on remarking that this might be the case with Arab women,
+but certainly did not apply to English women, for though a number were
+untrustworthy, the majority deserved all the confidence their husbands
+could place in them, he reiterated that women were universally bad. He
+did not believe that women ever would be good; and the English allowing
+their wives to gad about with faces uncovered, only showed their
+weakness, ignorance, and unwisdom.
+
+The tendency and spirit of the age are more and more towards the
+undertaking of industrial enterprises of such magnitude and skill as to
+require the capital of the world for their support and execution--as the
+Pacific Railroad, Suez Canal, Mont Cenis Tunnel, and railways in India
+and Western Asia, Euphrates Railroad, &c. The extension and use of
+railroads, steamships, telegraphs, break down nationalities and bring
+peoples geographically remote into close connection commercially and
+politically. They make the world one, and capital, like water, tends to
+a common level.
+
+[Geologists will be glad to find that the Doctor took pains to arrange
+his observations at this time in the following form.]
+
+A really enormous area of South Central Africa is covered with volcanic
+rocks, in which are imbedded angular fragments of older strata, possibly
+sandstone, converted into schist, which, though carried along in the
+molten mass, still retain impressions of plants of a low order, probably
+the lowest--Silurian--and distinct ripple marks and raindrops in which
+no animal markings have yet been observed. The fewness of the organic
+remains observed is owing to the fact that here no quarries are worked,
+no roads are made, and as we advance north the rank vegetation covers up
+everything. The only stone buildings in the country north of the Cape
+colony are the church and mission houses at Kuruman. In the walls there
+the fragments, with impressions of fossil leaves, have been broken
+through in the matrix, once a molten mass of lava. The area which this
+basalt covers extends from near the Vaal River in the south, to a point
+some sixty miles beyond the Victoria Falls, and the average breadth is
+about 150 miles. The space is at least 100,000 square miles. Sandstone
+rocks stand up in it at various points like islands, but all are
+metamorphosed, and branches have flowed off from the igneous sea into
+valleys and defiles, and one can easily trace the hardening process of
+the fire as less and less, till at the outer end of the stream the rocks
+are merely hardened. These branches equal in size all the rocks and
+hills that stand like islands, so that we are justified in assuming the
+area as at least 100,000 square miles of this basaltic sea.
+
+The molten mass seems to have flowed over in successive waves, and the
+top of each wave was covered with a dark vitreous scum carrying scori�
+with angular fragments. This scum marks each successive overflow, as a
+stratum from twelve to eighteen inches or more in thickness. In one part
+sixty-two strata are revealed, but at the Victoria Falls (which are
+simply a rent) the basaltic rock is stratified as far as our eyes could
+see down the depth of 310 feet. This extensive sea of lava was probably
+sub-aerial, because bubbles often appear as coming out of the rock into
+the vitreous scum on the surface of each wave: in some cases they have
+broken and left circular rings with raised edges, peculiar to any
+boiling viscous fluid. In many cases they have cooled as round pustules,
+as if a bullet were enclosed; on breaking them the internal surface is
+covered with a crop of beautiful crystals of silver with their heads all
+directed to the centre of the bubble, which otherwise is empty.
+
+These bubbles in stone may be observed in the bed of the Kuruman River,
+eight or ten miles north of the village; and the mountain called
+"Amhan," west-north-west of the village, has all the appearance of
+having been an orifice through which the basalt boiled up as water or
+mud does in a geyser.
+
+The black basaltic mountains on the east of the Bamangwato, formerly
+called the Bakaa, furnish further evidence of the igneous eruptions
+being sub-aerial, for the basalt itself is columnar at many points, and
+at other points the tops of the huge crystals appear in groups, and the
+apices not flattened, as would have been the case had they been
+developed under the enormous pressure of an ocean. A few miles on their
+south a hot salt fountain boils forth and tells of interior heat.
+Another, far to the south-east, and of fresh water, tells the same tale.
+
+Subsequently to the period of gigantic volcanic action, the outflow of
+fresh lime-water from the bowels of the earth seems to have been
+extremely large. The land now so dry that one might wander in various
+directions (especially westwards, to the Kalahari), and perish for lack
+of the precious fluid as certainly as if he were in the interior of
+Australia, was once bisected in all directions by flowing streams and
+great rivers, whose course was mainly to the south. These river beds are
+still called by the natives "_melapo_" in the south, but in the north
+"_wadys_," both words meaning the same thing, "river beds in which no
+water ever now flows." To feed these a vast number of gushing fountains
+poured forth for ages a perennial supply. When the eye of the fountain
+is seen it is an oval or oblong orifice, the lower portion distinctly
+water worn, and there, by diminished size, showing that as ages elapsed
+the smaller water supply had a manifestly lesser erosive power. In the
+sides of the mountain Amhan, already mentioned, good specimens of these
+water-worn orifices still exist, and are inhabited by swarms of bees,
+whose hives are quite protected from robbers by the hardness of the
+basaltic rocks. The points on which the streams of water fell are
+hollowed by its action, and the space around which the water splashed is
+covered by calcareous tufa, deposited there by the evaporation of the
+sun.
+
+Another good specimen of the ancient fountains is in a cave near
+Kolobeng, called "_Lep�lol�_," a word by which the natives there
+sometimes designate the sea. The wearing power of the primeval waters is
+here easily traced in two branches--the upper or more ancient ending in
+the characteristic oval orifice, in which I deposited a Father Mathew's
+leaden temperance token: the lower branch is much the largest, as that
+by which the greatest amount of water flowed for a much longer period
+than the other. The cave Lep�lol� was believed to be haunted, and no one
+dared to enter till I explored it as a relief from more serious labour.
+The entrance is some eight or more feet high, and five or six wide, in
+reddish grey sandstone rock, containing in its substance banks of well
+rounded shingle. The whole range, with many of the adjacent hills on the
+south, bear evidence of the scorching to which the contiguity of the
+lava subjected them. In the hardening process the silica was sometimes
+sweated out of this rock, and it exists now as pretty efflorescences of
+well-shaped crystals. But not only does this range, which stands eight
+or ten miles north of Kolobeng, exhibit the effects of igneous action,
+it shows on its eastern slope the effects of flowing water, in a large
+pot-hole called L�e, which has the reputation of having given exit to all
+the animals in South Africa, and also to the first progenitors of the
+whole Bechuana race. Their footsteps attest the truth of this belief. I
+was profane enough to be sceptical, because the large footstep of the
+first man Matsieng was directed as if going into instead of out of this
+famous pot-hole. Other huge pot-holes are met with all over the country,
+and at heights on the slopes of the mountains far above the levels of
+the ancient rivers.
+
+Many fountains rose in the courses of the ancient river beds, and the
+outflow was always in the direction of the current of the parent stream.
+Many of these ancient fountains still contain water, and form the stages
+on a journey, but the primitive waters seem generally to have been laden
+with lime in solution: this lime was deposited in vast lakes, which are
+now covered with calcareous tufa. One enormous fresh-water lake, in
+which probably sported the Dyconodon, was let off when the remarkable
+rent was made in the basalt which now constitutes the Victoria Falls.
+Another seems to have gone to the sea when a similar fissure was made at
+the falls of the Orange River. It is in this calcareous tufa alone that
+fossil animal remains have yet been found. There are no marine
+limestones except in friths which the elevation of the west and east
+coasts have placed far inland in the Coanza and Somauli country, and
+these contain the same shells as now live in the adjacent seas.
+
+Antecedently to the river system, which seems to have been a great
+southern Nile flowing from the sources of the Zambesi away south to the
+Orange River, there existed a state of fluvial action of greater
+activity than any we see now: it produced prodigious beds of
+well-rounded shingle and gravel. It is impossible to form an idea of
+their extent. The Loangwa flows through the bed of an ancient lake,
+whose banks are sixty feet thick, of well-rounded shingle. The Zambesi
+flows above the Kebrabasa, through great beds of the same formation, and
+generally they are of hard crystalline rocks; and it is impossible to
+conjecture what the condition of the country was when the large
+pot-holes were formed up the hillsides, and the prodigious attrition
+that rounded the shingle was going on. The land does not seem to have
+been submerged, because marine limestones (save in the exceptional cases
+noted) are wanting; and torrents cutting across the ancient river beds
+reveal fresh-water shells identical with those that now inhabit its
+fresh waters. The calcareous tufa seems to be the most recent rock
+formed. At the point of junction of the great southern prehistoric Nile
+with an ancient fresh-water lake near Buchap, and a few miles from
+Likatlong, a mound was formed in an eddy caused by some conical lias
+towards the east bank of this rent within its bed, and the dead animals
+were floated into the eddy and sank; their bones crop out of the white
+tufa, and they are so well preserved that even the black tartar on
+buffalo and zebra's teeth remain: they are of the present species of
+animals that now inhabit Africa. This is the only case of fossils of
+these animals being found _in situ_. In 1855 I observed similar fossils
+in banks of gravel in transitu all down the Zambesi above Kebrabasa; and
+about 1862 a bed of gravel was found in the delta with many of the same
+fossils that had come to rest in the great deposit of that river, but
+where the Zambesi digs them out is not known. In its course below the
+Victoria Falls I observed tufaceous rocks: these must contain the bones,
+for were they carried away from the great tufa Lake bottom of Sesh�k�,
+down the Victoria Falls, they would all be ground into fine silt. The
+bones in the river and in the delta were all associated with pieces of
+coarse pottery, exactly the same as the natives make and use at the
+present day: with it we found fragments of a fine grain, only
+occasionally seen among Africans, and closely resembling ancient
+cinerary urns: none were better baked than is customary in the country
+now. The most ancient relics are deeply worn granite, mica-schist, and
+sandstone millstones; the balls used for chipping and roughing them, of
+about the shape and size of an orange, are found lying near them. No
+stone weapons or tools ever met my eyes, though I was anxious to find
+them, and looked carefully over every ancient village we came to for
+many years. There is no flint to make celts, but quartz and rocks having
+a slaty cleavage are abundant. It is only for the finer work that they
+use iron tongs, hammers, and anvils and with these they turn out work
+which makes English blacksmiths declare Africans never did. They are
+very careful of their tools: indeed, the very opposites to the flint
+implement men, who seem sometimes to have made celts just for the
+pleasure of throwing them away: even the Romans did not seem to know the
+value of their money.
+
+The ancient Africans seem to have been at least as early as the
+Asiatics in the art of taming elephants. The Egyptian monuments show
+them bringing tame elephants and lions into Egypt; and very ancient
+sculptures show the real African species, which the artist must have
+seen. They refused to sell elephants, which cost them months of hard
+labour to catch and tame, to a Greek commander of Egyptian troops for a
+few brass pots: they were quite right. Two or three tons of fine fat
+butcher-meat were far better than the price, seeing their wives could
+make any number of cooking pots for nothing.
+
+_15th July, 1872._--Reported to-day that twenty wounded men have been
+brought into M'futu from the field of fighting. About 2000 are said to
+be engaged on the Arab side, and the side of Mirambo would seem to be
+strong, but the assailants have the disadvantage of firing against a
+stockade, and are unprotected, except by ant-hills, bushes, and ditches
+in the field. I saw the first kites to-day: one had spots of white
+feathers on the body below, as if it were a young one--probably come
+from the north.
+
+_17th July, 1872._--Went over to Sultan bin Ali yesterday. Very kind, as
+usual; he gave me guavas and a melon--called "matanga." It is reported
+that one of Mirambo's chief men, Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealed
+holes, which acted like Bruce's "craw-taes" at Bannockburn, and wounded
+several, probably the twenty reported. This has induced the Arabs to
+send for a cannon they have, with which to batter Mirambo at a distance.
+The gun is borne past us this morning: a brass 7-pounder, dated 1679.
+Carried by the Portuguese Commander-in-Chief to China 1679, or 193 years
+ago--and now to beat Mirambo, by Arabs who have very little interest in
+the war.
+
+Some of his people, out prowling two days ago, killed a slave. The war
+is not so near an end as many hoped.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Mtesa's people on their way back to Uganda were stuck fast at
+Unyanyemb� the whole of this time: it does not appear at all who the
+missionary was to whom he refers.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Lewal� sends off the Baganda in a great hurry, after detaining them for
+six months or more till the war ended, and he now gets pagazi of
+Banyamwezi for them. This haste (though war is not ended) is probably
+because Lewal� has heard of a missionary through me.
+
+Mirambo fires now from inside the stockade alone.
+
+_19th July, 1872._--Visited Salim bin Seff, and was very hospitably
+entertained. He was disappointed that I could not eat largely. They live
+very comfortably: grow wheat, whilst flour and fruits grace their board.
+Salim says that goat's flesh at Zanzibar is better than beef, but here
+beef is better than goat's flesh. He is a stout, jolly fellow.
+
+_20th July, 1872._--High cold winds prevail. Temperature, 6 A.M., 57�;
+noon, on the ground, 122�. It may be higher, but I am afraid to risk the
+thermometer, which is graduated to 140� only.
+
+_21st July, 1872._--Bought two milch cows (from a Motusi), which, with
+their calves, were 17 dotis or 34 fathoms. The Baganda are packing up to
+leave for home. They take a good deal of brandy and gin for Mtesa from
+the Moslems. Temperature at noon, 96�.
+
+Another nest of wagtails flown. They eat bread crumbs. The whydahs are
+busy pairing. Lewal� returns to-day from M'futu on his own private
+business at Kwikuru. The success of the war is a minor consideration
+with all. I wish my men would come, and let me off from this weary
+waiting.
+
+Some philosophising is curious. It represents our Maker forming the
+machine of the universe: setting it a-going, and able to do nothing more
+outside certain of His own laws. He, as it were, laid the egg of the
+whole, and, like an ostrich, left it to be hatched by the sun. We can
+control laws, but He cannot! A fire set to this house would consume it,
+but we can throw on water and consume the fire. We control the elements,
+fire and water: is He debarred from doing the same, and more, who has
+infinite wisdom and knowledge? He surely is greater than His own laws.
+Civilization is only what has been done with natural laws. Some foolish
+speculations in morals resemble the idea of a Muganda, who said last
+night, that if Mtesa didn't kill people now and then, his subjects would
+suppose that he was dead!
+
+_23rd July, 1872._--The departure of the Baganda is countermanded, for
+fear of Mirambo capturing their gunpowder.
+
+Lewal� interdicts them from going; he says, "You may go, but leave all
+the gunpowder here, because Mirambo will follow and take it all to fight
+with us." This is an afterthought, for he hurried them to go off. A few
+will go and take the news and some goods to Mtesa, and probably a lot of
+Lewal�'s goods to trade at Karagw�.
+
+The Baganda are angry, for now their cattle and much of their property
+are expended here; but they say, "We are strangers, and what can we do
+but submit?" The Banyamwesi carriers would all have run away on the
+least appearance of danger. No troops are sent by Seyed Burghash, though
+they were confidently reported long ago. All trade is at a standstill.
+
+_24th July, 1872._--The Bagoh� retire from the war. This month is
+unlucky. I visited Lewal� and Nkasiwa, putting a blister on the latter,
+for paralytic arm, to please him. Lewal� says that a general flight from
+the war has taken place. The excuse is hunger.
+
+He confirms the great damage done by a cyclone at Zanzibar to shipping,
+houses, cocoa-nut palms, mango-trees, and clove-trees, also houses and
+dhows, five days after Burghash returned. Sofeu volunteers to go with
+us, because Mohamad Bogharib never gave him anything, and Bwana Mohinna
+has asked him to go with him. I have accepted his offer, and will
+explain to Mohamad, when I see him, that this is what he promised me in
+the way of giving men, but never performed.
+
+_27th July, 1872._--At dawn a loud rumbling in the east as if of
+thunder, possibly a slight earthquake; no thunder-clouds visible.
+
+Bin Nassib came last night and visited me before going home to his own
+house; a tall, brown, polite Arab. He says that he lately received a
+packet for Mr. Stanley from the American Consul, sealed in tin, and sent
+it back: this is the eleventh that came to Stanley. A party of native
+traders who went with the Baganda were attacked by Mirambo's people, and
+driven back with the loss of all their goods and one killed. The
+fugitives returned this morning sorely downcast. A party of twenty-three
+loads left for Karagw� a few days ago, and the leader alone has
+returned; he does not know more than that one was killed. Another was
+slain on this side of M'futu by Mirambo's people yesterday, the country
+thus is still in a terribly disturbed state. Sheikh bin Nassib says that
+the Arabs have rooted out fifty-two headmen who were Mirambo's allies.
+
+_28th July, 1872._--To Nkasiwa; blistered him, as the first relieved the
+pain and pleased him greatly; hope he may derive benefit.
+
+Cold east winds, and clouded thickly over all the sky.
+
+_29th July, 1872._--Making flour of rice for the journey. Visited Sheikh
+bin Nassib, who has a severe attack of fever; he cannot avoid going to
+the war. He bought a donkey with the tusk he stole from Lewal�, and it
+died yesterday; now Lewal� says, "Give me back my tusk;" and the Arab
+replies, "Give me back my donkey." The father must pay, but his son's
+character is lost as well as the donkey. Bin Nassib gave me a present of
+wheaten bread and cakes.
+
+_30th July, 1872._--Weary waiting this, and the best time for travelling
+passes over unused. High winds from the east every day bring cold, and,
+to the thinly-clad Arabs, fever. Bin Omari called: goes to Katanga with
+another man's goods to trade there.
+
+_31st July, 1872._--We heard yesterday from Sahib bin Nassib that the
+caravan of his brother Kisessa was at a spot in Ugogo, twelve days off.
+My party had gone by another route. Thankful for even this in my
+wearisome waiting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Short years in Baganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. Higher
+    mountains. Large bay.
+
+
+_1st August, 1872._--A large party of Baganda have come to see what is
+stopping the way to Mtesa, about ten headmen and their followers; but
+they were told by an Arab in Usui that the war with Mirambo was over.
+About seventy of them come on here to-morrow, only to be despatched back
+to fetch all the Baganda in Usui, to aid in fighting Mirambo. It is
+proposed to take a stockade near the central one, and therein build a
+battery for the cannon, which seems a wise measure. These arrivals are a
+poor, slave-looking people, clad in bark-cloth, "Mbuzu," and having
+shields with a boss in the centre, round, and about the size of the
+ancient Highlanders' targe, but made of reeds. The Baganda already here
+said that most of the new-comers were slaves, and would be sold for
+cloths. Extolling the size of Mtesa's country, they say it would take a
+year to go across it. When I joked them about it, they explained that a
+year meant five months, three of rain, two of dry, then rain again. Went
+over to apply medicine to Nkasiwa's neck to heal the outside; the
+inside is benefited somewhat, but the power will probably remain
+incomplete, as it now is.
+
+_3rd August, 1872._--Visited Salem bin Seff, who is ill of fever. They
+are hospitable men. Called on Sultan bin Ali and home. It is he who
+effected the flight of all the Baganda pagazi, by giving ten strings of
+beads to Motusi to go and spread a panic among them by night; all
+bolted.
+
+_4th August, 1872._--Wearisome waiting, and the sun is now rainy at
+mid-day, and will become hotter right on to the hot season in November,
+but this delay may be all for the best.
+
+_5th August, 1872._--Visited Nkasiwa, and recommended shampooing the
+disabled limbs with oil or flour. He says that the pain is removed. More
+Baganda have come to Kwihara, and will be used for the Mirambo war.
+
+In many parts one is struck by the fact of the children having so few
+games. Life is a serious business, and amusement is derived from
+imitating the vocations of the parents--hut building, making little
+gardens, bows and arrows, shields and spears. Elsewhere boys are very
+ingenious little fellows, and have several games; they also shoot birds
+with bows, and teach captured linnets to sing. They are expert in making
+guns and traps for small birds, and in making and using bird-lime. They
+make play guns of reed, which go off with a trigger and spring, with a
+cloud of ashes for smoke. Sometimes they make double-barrelled guns of
+clay, and have cotton-fluff as smoke. The boys shoot locusts with small
+toy guns very cleverly. A couple of rufous, brown-headed, and dirty
+speckle-breasted swallows appeared to-day for the first time this
+season, and lighted on the ground. This is the kind that builds here in
+houses, and as far south as Shupanga, on the Zambesi, and at Kuraman.
+Sun-birds visit a mass of spiders' web to-day; they pick out the young
+spiders. Nectar is but part of their food. The insects in or at the
+nectar could not be separated, and hence have been made an essential
+part of their diet. On closer inspection, however, I see that whilst
+seeming to pick out young spiders--and they probably do so--they end in
+detaching the outer coating of spiders' web from the inner stiff paper
+web, in order to make a nest between the two. The outer part is a thin
+coating of loose threads: the inner is tough paper, impervious web, just
+like that which forms the wasps' hive, but stronger. The hen brings fine
+fibres and places them round a hole 1-1/2 inch in diameter, then works
+herself in between the two webs and brings cotton to line the inside
+formed by her body.
+
+--What is the atonement of Christ? It is Himself: it is the inherent
+and everlasting mercy of God made apparent to human eyes and ears. The
+everlasting love was disclosed by our Lord's life and death. It showed
+that God forgives, because He loves to forgive. He works by smiles if
+possible, if not by frowns; pain is only a means of enforcing love.
+
+If we speak of strength, lo! He is strong. The Almighty; the Over Power;
+the Mind of the Universe. The heart thrills at the idea of His
+greatness.
+
+--All the great among men have been remarkable at once for the grasp
+and minuteness of their knowledge. Great astronomers seem to know every
+iota of the Knowable. The Great Duke, when at the head of armies, could
+give all the particulars to be observed in a cavalry charge, and took
+care to have food ready for all his troops. Men think that greatness
+consists in lofty indifference to all trivial things. The Grand Llama,
+sitting in immovable contemplation of nothing, is a good example of what
+a human mind would regard as majesty; but the Gospels reveal Jesus, the
+manifestation of the blessed God over all as minute in His care of all.
+He exercises a vigilance more constant, complete, and comprehensive,
+every hour and every minute, over each of His people than their utmost
+selflove could ever attain. His tender love is more exquisite than a
+mother's heart can feel.
+
+_6th August, 1872._--Wagtails begin to discard their young, which feed
+themselves. I can think of nothing but "when will these men come?" Sixty
+days was the period named, now it is eighty-four. It may be all for the
+best, in the good Providence of the Most High.
+
+_9th August, 1872._--I do most devoutly thank the Lord for His goodness
+in bringing my men near to this. Three came to-day, and how thankful I
+am I cannot express. It is well--the men who went with Mr. Stanley came
+again to me. "Bless the Lord, my soul, and all that is within me, bless
+His holy name." Amen.
+
+_10th August, 1872._--Sent back the three men who came from the Safari,
+with 4 dotis and 3 lbs. of powder. Called on the Lewal� to give the news
+as a bit of politeness; found that the old chief Nksiwa had been bumped
+by an ox, and a bruise on the ribs may be serious at his age: this is
+another delay from the war. It is only half-heartedly that anyone goes.
+
+[At last this trying suspense was put an end to by the arrival of a
+troop of fifty-seven men and boys, made up of porters hired by Mr.
+Stanley on the coast, and some more Nassick pupils sent from Bombay to
+join Lieut. Dawson. We find the names of John and Jacob Wainwright
+amongst the latter on Mr. Stanley's list.
+
+Before we incorporate these new recruits on the muster-roll of Dr.
+Livingstone's servants, it seems right to point to five names which
+alone represented at this time the list of his original followers; these
+were Susi, Chuma, and Amoda, who joined him in 1864 on the Zambesi, that
+is eight years previously, and Mabruki and Gardner, Nassick boys hired
+in 1866. We shall see that the new comers by degrees became accustomed
+to the hardships of travel, and shared with the old servants all the
+danger of the last heroic march home. Nor must we forget that it was to
+the intelligence and superior education of Jacob Wainwright (whom we now
+meet with for the first time) that we were indebted for the earliest
+account of the eventful eighteen months during which he was attached to
+the party.
+
+And now all is pounding, packing, bargaining, weighing, and disputing
+amongst the porters. Amidst the inseparable difficulties of an African
+start, one thankful heart gathers, comfort and courage:--]
+
+_15th August, 1872._--The men came yesterday (14th), having been
+seventy-four days from Bagamoio. Most thankful to the Giver of all good
+I am. I have to give them a rest of a few days, and then start.
+
+_16th August, 1872._--An earthquake--"Kiti-ki-sha!"--about 7.0 P.M.
+shook me in my katanda with quick vibrations. They gradually became
+fainter: it lasted some 50 seconds, and was observed by many.
+
+_17th August, 1872._--Preparing things.
+
+_18th August, 1872._--Fando to be avoided as extortionate. Went to bid
+adieu to Sultan bin Ali, and left goods with him for the return journey,
+and many cartridges full and empty, nails for boat, two iron pillars,
+&c.[23]
+
+_19th August, 1872._--Waiting for pagazi. Sultan bin Ali called; is
+going off to M'futu._20th August, 1872._--Weighed all the loads again,
+and gave an equal load of 50 lbs. to each, and half loads to the
+Nassickers. Mabruki Speke is left at Taborah with Sultan bin Ali. He has
+long been sick, and is unable to go with us.
+
+_21st August, 1872._--Gave people an ox, and to a discarded wife a
+cloth, to avoid exposure by her husband stripping her. She is somebody's
+child!
+
+_22nd August, 1872._--Sunday. All ready, but ten pagazi lacking.
+
+_23rd August, 1872._--Cannot get pagasi. Most are sent off to the war.
+
+[At last the start took place. It is necessary to mention that Dr.
+Livingstone's plan in all his travels was to make one short stage the
+first day, and generally late in the afternoon. This, although nothing
+in point of distance, acted like the drill-sergeant's "Attention!" The
+next morning everyone was ready for the road, clear of the town,
+unencumbered with parting words, and by those parting pipes, of terrible
+memory to all hurrying Englishmen in Africa!]
+
+_25th August, 1872._--Started and went one hour to village of Manga or
+Yuba by a granite ridge; the weather clear, and a fine breeze from the
+east refreshes. It is important to give short marches at first. Marched
+1-1/4 hour.
+
+_26th August, 1872._--Two Nassickers lost a cow out of ten head of
+cattle. Marched to Borna of Mayonda. Sent back five men to look after
+the cow. Cow not found: she was our best milker.
+
+_27th August, 1872._--Started for Ebulua and Kasek�ra of Mamba. Cross
+torrent, now dry, and through forest to village of Ebulua; thence to
+village of Kasek�ra, 3-1/2 hours. Direction, S. by W.
+
+_28th August, 1872._--Reached Mayol� village in 2 hours and rested; S.
+and by W. Water is scarce in front. Through flat forest to a
+marshy-looking piece of water, where we camp, after a march of 1-1/2
+hour; still S. by W.
+
+_29th August, 1872._--On through level forest without water. Trees
+present a dry, wintry aspect; grass dry, but some flowers shoot out, and
+fresh grass where the old growth has been burnt off.
+
+_30th August, 1872._--The two Nassickers lost all the cows yesterday,
+from sheer laziness. They were found a long way off, and one cow
+missing. Susi gave them ten cuts each with a switch. Engaging pagazi and
+rest.
+
+_31st August, 1872._--The Baganda boy Kassa was followed to Gunda, and I
+delivered him to his countrymen. He escaped from Mayol� village this
+morning, and came at 3 P.M., his clothes in rags by running through the
+forest eleven hours, say twenty-two miles, and is determined not to
+leave us. Pass Kisari's village, one and a half mile distant, and on to
+Penta or Phint� to sleep, through perfectly flat forest. 3 hours S. by
+W.
+
+_1st September, 1872._--The same flat forest to Chikulu, S. and by W., 4
+hours 25 m. Manyara called, and is going with us to-morrow. Jangiang�
+presented a leg of Kongolo or Taghets�, having a bunch of white hair
+beneath the orbital sinus. Bought food and served out rations to the men
+for ten days, as water is scarce, and but little food can be obtained at
+the villages. The country is very dry and wintry-looking, but flowers
+shoot out. First clouds all over to-day. It is hot now. A flock of small
+swallows now appears: they seem tailless and with white bellies.
+
+_2nd September, 1872._--The people are preparing their ten days' food.
+Two pagazi ran away with 24 dotis of the men's calico. Sent after them,
+but with small hopes of capturing them.
+
+_3rd September, 1872._--Unsuccessful search.
+
+_4th September, 1872._--Leave Chikulu's, and pass a large puff-adder in
+the way. A single blow on the head killed it, so that it did not stir.
+About 3 feet long, and as thick as a man's arm, a short tail, and flat
+broad head. The men say this is a very good sign for our journey, though
+it would have been a bad sign, and suffering and death, had one trodden
+on it. Come to Liwan�; large tree and waters. S.S.W. 4-1/2 hours.
+
+_5th September, 1872._--A long hot tramp to Manyara's. He is a kind old
+man. Many of the men very tired and sick. S.S.W. 5-3/4 hours.
+
+_6th September, 1872._--Rest the caravan, as we shall have to make
+forced marches on account of tsetse fly.
+
+_7th September, 1872._--Obliged to remain, as several are ill with
+fever.
+
+_8th September, 1872._--On to N'gombo nullah. Very hot and people ill.
+Tsetse. A poor woman of Ujiji followed one of Stanley's men to the
+coast. He cast her off here, and she was taken by another; but her
+temper seems too excitable. She set fire to her hut by accident, and in
+the excitement quarrelled all round; she is a somebody's bairn
+nevertheless, a tall, strapping young woman, she must have been the
+pride of her parents.
+
+_9th September, 1872._--Telek�za[24] at broad part of the nullah, then
+went on two hours and passed the night in the forest.
+
+_10th September, 1872._--On to Mw�ras, and spent one night there by a
+pool in the forest. Village two miles off.
+
+_11th September, 1872._--On 8-1/2 hours to Telek�za. Sun very hot, and
+marching fatiguing to all.
+
+Majwara has an insect in the aqueous chamber of his eye. It moves about
+and is painful.
+
+We found that an old path from Mwaro has water, and must go early
+to-morrow morning, and so avoid the roundabout by Morefu. We shall thus
+save two days, which in this hot weather is much for us. We hear that
+Simba has gone to fight with Fipa. Two Banyamwezi volunteer. _12th
+September, 1872._--We went by this water till 2 P.M., then made a march,
+and to-morrow get to villages. Got a buffalo and remain overnight. Water
+is in h�matite. I engaged four pagazi here, named Motepatonz�, Nsakusi,
+Muanamazungu, and Mayombo.
+
+_15th September, 1872._--On to near range of hills. Much large game
+here. Ill.
+
+_16th September, 1872._--Climbed over range about 200 feet high; then on
+westward to stockaded villages of Kamirambo. His land begins at the
+M'toni.
+
+_17th September, 1872._--To Metambo River: 1-1/4 broad, and marshy. Here
+begins the land of M�r�ra. Through forest with many strychnus trees,
+3-1/4 hours, and arrive at M�r�ra's.
+
+_18th September, 1872._--Remain at M�r�ra's to prepare food.
+
+[There is a significant entry here: the old enemy was upon him. It would
+seem that his peculiar liability during these travels to one prostrating
+form of disease was now redoubled. The men speak of few periods of even
+comparative health from this date.]
+
+_19th September, 1872._--Ditto, ditto, because I am ill with bowels,
+having eaten nothing for eight days. Simba wants us to pass by his
+village, and not by the straight path.
+
+_20th September, 1872._--Went to Simba's; 3-1/2 hours. About north-west.
+Simba sent a handsome present of food, a goat, eggs, and a fowl, beans,
+split rice, dura, and sesame. I gave him three dotis of superior cloth.
+
+_21st September, 1872._--Rest here, as the complaint does not yield to
+medicine or time; but I begin to eat now, which is a favourable symptom.
+Under a lofty tree at Simba's, a kite, the common brown one, had two
+pure white eggs in its nest, larger than a fowl's, and very spherical.
+The Banyamwesi women are in general very coarse, not a beautiful woman
+amongst them, as is so common among the Batusi; squat, thick-set
+figures, and features too; a race of pagazi. On coming inland from
+sea-coast, the tradition says, they cut the end of a cone shell, so as
+to make it a little of the half-moon shape; this is their chief
+ornament. They are generally respectful in deportment, but not very
+generous; they have learned the Arab adage, "Nothing for nothing," and
+are keen slave-traders. The gingerbread palm of Speke is the _Hyphene_;
+the Borassus has a large seed, very like the Coco-de-mer of the
+Seychelle Islands, in being double, but it is very small compared to it.
+
+_22nd September, 1872._--Preparing food, and one man pretends inability
+to walk; send for some pagazi to carry loads of those who carry him.
+Simba sends copious libations of pombe.
+
+_23rd September, 1872._--The pagazi, after demanding enormous pay,
+walked off. We went on along rocky banks of a stream, and, crossing it,
+camped, because the next water is far off.
+
+_24th September, 1872._--Recovering and thankful, but weak; cross broad
+sedgy stream, and so on to Boma Misonghi, W. and by S.
+
+_25th September, 1872._--Got a buffalo and M'jur�, and remain to eat
+them. I am getting better slowly. The M'jur�, or water hog, was all
+eaten by hy�nas during night; but the buffalo is safe.
+
+_26th September, 1872._--Through forest, along the side of a sedgy
+valley. Cross its head water, which has rust of iron in it, then W.
+and by S. The forest has very much tsetse. Zebras calling loudly, and
+Senegal long claw in our camp at dawn, with its cry,
+"O-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o."
+
+_27th September, 1872._--On at dawn. No water expected, but we crossed
+three abundant supplies before we came to hill of our camp. Much game
+about here. Getting well again--thanks. About W. 3-3/4 hours. No people,
+or marks of them. Flowers sprouting in expectation of rains; much land
+burned off, but grass short yet.
+
+_28th September, 1872._--At two hills with mushroom-topped trees on
+west side. Crossed a good stream 12 feet broad and knee deep.
+
+Buffaloes grazing. Many of the men sick. Whilst camping, a large musk
+cat broke forth among us and was killed. (Ya bude--musk). Musk cat
+(N'gawa), black with white stripes; from point of nose to tip of tail, 4
+feet; height at withers, 1 foot 6 inches.
+
+_29th September, 1872._--Through much bamboo and low hills to M'pokwa
+ruins and river. The latter in a deep rent in alluvial soil. Very hot,
+and many sick in consequence. Sombala fish abundant. Course W.
+
+_30th September, 1872._--Away among low tree-covered hills of granite
+and sandstone. Found that Bangala had assaulted the village to which we
+went a few days ago, and all were fugitives. Our people found plenty of
+Batatas[25] in the deserted gardens. A great help, for all were hungry.
+
+_1st October, 1872, Friday_--On through much deserted cultivation in
+rich damp soil. Surrounded with low tree-covered ranges. We saw a few
+people, but all are in terror.
+
+_2nd October, 1872._--Obtained M'tama in abundance for brass wire, and
+remained to grind it. The people have been without any for some days,
+and now rejoice in plenty. A slight shower fell at 5 A.M., but not
+enough to lay the dust.
+
+_3rd October, 1872._--Southwards, and down a steep descent into a rich
+valley with much green maize in ear; people friendly; but it was but one
+hour's march, so we went on through hilly country S.W. Men firing off
+ammunition, had to be punished. We crossed the Katuma River in the
+bottom of a valley; it is 12 feet broad, and knee deep; camped in a
+forest. Farjella shot a fine buffalo. The weather disagreeably hot and
+sultry.
+
+_4th October, 1872._--Over the same hilly country; the grass is burnt
+off, but the stalks are disagreeable. Came to a fine valley with a large
+herd of zebras feeding quietly; pretty animals. We went only an hour and
+a half to-day, as one sick man is carried, and it is hot and trying for
+all. I feel it much internally, and am glad to more slowly.
+
+_5th October, 1872._--Up and down mountains, very sore on legs and
+lungs. Trying to save donkey's strength I climbed and descended, and as
+soon as I mounted, off he set as hard as he could run, and he felt not
+the bridle; the saddle was loose, but I stuck on till we reached water
+in a bamboo hollow with spring.
+
+_6th October, 1872._--A long bamboo valley with giraffes in it. Range on
+our right stretches away from us, and that on the left dwindled down;
+all covered with bamboos, in tufts like other grasses; elephants eat
+them. Travelled W. and by S. 2-3/4 hours. Short marches on account of
+carrying one sick man.
+
+_7th October, 1872._--Over fine park-like country, with large belts of
+bamboo and fine broad shady trees. Went westwards to the end of the
+left-hand range. Went four hours over a level forest with much h�matite.
+Trees large and open. Large game evidently abounds, and waters generally
+are not far apart. Our neighbour got a zebra, a rhinoceros, and two
+young elephants.
+
+_8th October, 1872._--Came on early as sun is hot, and in two hours saw
+the Tanganyika from a gentle hill. The land is rough, with angular
+fragments of quartz; the rocks of mica schist are tilted up as if away
+from the Lake's longer axis. Some are upright, and some have basalt
+melted into the layers, and crystallized in irregular polygons. All are
+very tired, and in coming to a stockade we were refused admittance,
+because Malongwana had attacked them lately, and we might seize them
+when in this stronghold. Very true; so we sit ontside in the shade of a
+single palm (Borassus).
+
+_9th October, 1872._--Rest, because all are tired, and several sick.
+This heat makes me useless, and constrains me to lie like a log.
+Inwardly I feel tired too. Jangeang� leaves us to-morrow, having found
+canoes going to Ujiji.
+
+_10th October, 1872._--People very tired, and it being moreover Sunday
+we rest. Gave each a keta of beads. Usowa chief Ponda.
+
+_11th October, 1872._--Reach Kalema district after 2-3/4 hours over
+black mud all deeply cracked, and many deep torrents now dry. Kalema is
+a stockade. We see Tanganyika, but a range of low hills intervenes. A
+rumour of war to-morrow.
+
+_12th October, 1872._--We wait till 2 P.M., and then make a forced march
+towards Fipa. The people cultivate but little, for fear of enemies; so
+we can buy few provisions. We left a broad valley with a sand river in
+it, where we have been two days, and climbed a range of hills parallel
+to Tanganyika, of mica schist and gneiss, tilted away from the Lake. We
+met a buffalo on the top of one ridge, it was shot into and lay down,
+but we lost it. Course S.W. to brink of Tanganyika water.
+
+_13th October, 1872._--Our course went along the top of a range of hills
+lying parallel with the Lake. A great part of yesterday was on the same
+range. It is a thousand feet above the water, and is covered with trees
+rather scraggy. At sunset the red glare on the surface made the water
+look like a sea of reddish gold; it seemed so near that many went off to
+drink, but were three or four hours in doing so. One cannot see the
+other side on account of the smokes in the air, but this morning three
+capes jut out, and the last bearing S.E. from our camp seems to go near
+the other side. Very hot weather. To the town of Fipa to-morrow. Course
+about S. Though we suffer much from the heat by travelling at this
+season, we escape a vast number of running and often muddy rills, also
+muddy paths which would soon knock the donkey up. A milk-and-water sky
+portends rain. Tipo Tipo is reported to be carrying it with a high hand
+in Nsama's country, Itawa, insisting that all the ivory must be brought
+as his tribute--the conqueror of Nsama. Our drum is the greatest object
+of curiosity we have to the Banyamwezi. A very great deal of cotton is
+cultivated all along the shores of Lake Tanganyika; it is the Pernambuco
+kind, with the seeds clinging together, but of good and long fibre, and
+the trees are left standing all the year to enable them to become large;
+grain and ground-nuts are cultivated between them. The cotton is
+manufactured into coarse cloth, which is the general clothing of all.
+
+_14th October, 1872._--Crossed two deep gullies with sluggish water in
+them, and one surrounding an old stockade. Camp on a knoll, overlooking
+modern stockade and Tanganyika very pleasantly. Saw two beautiful
+sultanas with azure blue necks. We might have come here yesterday, but
+were too tired. Mukemb� land is ruled by chief Kariaria; village,
+Mokaria. Mount M'Pumbw� goes into the Lake. N'Tambw� Mount; village,
+Kafumfw�. Kapufi is the chief of Fipa.
+
+Noon, and about fifty feet above Lake; clouded over. Temperature 91�
+noon; 94� 3 P.M.
+
+_15th October, 1872._--Rest, and kill an ox. The dry heat is
+distressing, and all feel it sorely. I am right glad of the rest, but
+keep on as constantly as I can. By giving dura and maize to the donkeys,
+and riding on alternate days, they hold on; but I feel the sun more than
+if walking. The chief Kariaria is civil.
+
+_16th October, 1872._--Leave Mokaia and go south. We crossed several
+bays of Tanganyika, the path winding considerably. The people set fire
+to our camp as soon as we started.
+
+_17th October, 1872._--Leave a bay of Tanganyika, and go on to Mpimbw�;
+two lions growled savagely as we passed. Game is swarming here, but my
+men cannot shoot except to make a noise. We found many lepidosirens in a
+muddy pool, which a group of vultures were catching and eating. The men
+speared one of them, which had scales on; its tail had been bitten off
+by a cannibal brother: in length it was about two feet: there were
+curious roe-like portions near its backbone, yellow in colour; the flesh
+was good. We climbed up a pass at the east end of Mpimbw� mountain, and
+at a rounded mass of it found water.
+
+_18th October, 1872._--Went on about south among mountains all day till
+we came down, by a little westing, to the Lake again, where there were
+some large villages, well stockaded, with a deep gully half round them.
+Ill with my old complaint again. Bubw� is the chief here. Food dear,
+because Simba made a raid lately. The country is Kilando.
+
+_19th October, 1872._--Remained to prepare food and rest the people. Two
+islets, Nkoma and Kaleng�, are here, the latter in front of us.
+
+_20th October, 1872._--We got a water-buck and a large buffalo, and
+remained during the forenoon to cut up the meat, and started at 2 P.M.
+
+Went on and passed a large arm of Tanganyika, having a bar of hills on
+its outer border. Country swarming with large game. Passed two bomas,
+and spent the night near one of them. Course east and then south.
+
+_21st October, 1872._--Mokassa, a Moganda boy, has a swelling of the
+ankle, which prevents his walking. We went one hour to find wood to make
+a litter for him. The bomas round the villages are plastered with mud,
+so as to intercept balls or arrows. The trees are all cut down for these
+stockades, and the flats are cut up with deep gullies. A great deal of
+cotton is cultivated, of which the people make their cloth. There is an
+arm of Tanganyika here called Kafungia.
+
+I sent a doti to the headman of the village, where we made the litter,
+to ask for a guide to take us straight south instead of going east to
+Fipa, which is four days off and out of our course. Tipo Tipo is said
+to be at Morero, west of Tanganyika.
+
+_22nd October, 1872._--Turned back westwards, and went through the hills
+down to some large islets in the Lake, and camped in villages destroyed
+by Simba. A great deal of cotton is cultivated here, about thirty feet
+above the Lake.
+
+_23rd October, 1872._--First east, and then passed two deep bays, at one
+of which we put up, as they had food to sell. The sides of the
+Tanganyika Lake are a succession of rounded bays, answering to the
+valleys which trend down to the shore between the numerous ranges of
+hills. In Lake Nyassa they seem made by the prevailing winds. We only
+get about one hour and a half south and by east. Rain probably fell last
+night, for the opposite shore is visible to-day. The mountain range of
+Banda slopes down as it goes south. This is the district of Motoshi.
+Wherever buffaloes are to be caught, falling traps are suspended over
+the path in the trees near the water.
+
+_24th October, 1872._--There are many rounded bays in mountainous Fipa.
+We rested two hours in a deep shady dell, and then came along a very
+slippery mountain-side to a village in a stockade. It is very hot
+to-day, and the first thunderstorm away in the east. The name of this
+village is Lind�.
+
+_25th October, 1872._--The coast runs south-south-east to a cape. We
+went up south-east, then over a high steep hill to turn to south again,
+then down into a valley of Tanganyika, over another stony side, and down
+to a dell with a village in it. The west coast is very plain to-day;
+rain must have fallen there.
+
+_26th October, 1872._--Over hills and mountains again, past two deep
+bays, and on to a large bay with a prominent islet on the south side of
+it, called Kitanda, from the chiefs name. There is also a rivulet of
+fine water of the same name here.
+
+_27th October, 1872._--Remained to buy food, which is very dear. We
+slaughtered a tired cow to exchange for provisions.
+
+_28th October, 1872._--Left Kitanda, and came round the cape, going
+south. The cape furthest north bore north-north-west. We came to three
+villages and some large spreading trees, where we were invited by the
+headman to remain, as the next stage along the shore is long. Morilo
+islet is on the other or western side, at the crossing-place. The people
+brought in a leopard in great triumph. Its mouth and all its claws were
+bound with grass and bands of bark, as if to make it quite safe, and its
+tail was curled round: drumming and lullilooing in plenty.
+
+The chief Mosirwa, or Kasaman�, paid us a visit, and is preparing a
+present of food. One of his men was bitten by the leopard in the arm
+before he killed it. Molilo or Morilo islet is the crossing-place of
+Banyamwezi when bound for Casembe's country, and is near to the Lofuko
+River, on the western shore of the Lake. The Lake is about twelve or
+fifteen miles broad, at latitude 7� 52' south. Tipo Tipo is ruling in
+Itawa, and bound a chief in chains, but loosed him on being requested to
+do so by Syde bin Ali. It takes about three hours to cross at Morilo.
+
+_29th October, 1872._--Crossed the Thembwa Rivulet, twenty feet broad
+and knee deep, and sleep on its eastern bank. Fine cold water over stony
+bottom. The mountains now close in on Tanganyika, so there is no path
+but one, over which luggage cannot be carried. The stage after this is
+six hours up hill before we come to water. This forced me to stop after
+only a short crooked march of two and a quarter hours. We are now on the
+confines of Fipa. The next march takes us into Burungu.
+
+_30th October, 1872._--The highest parts of the mountains are from 500
+feet to 700 feet higher than the passes, say from 1300 feet to 1500 feet
+above the Lake. A very rough march to-day; one cow fell, and was
+disabled. The stones are collected in little heaps and rows, which
+shows that all these rough mountains were cultivated. We arrive at a
+village on the Lake shore. Kirila islet is about a quarter of a mile
+from the shore. The Megunda people cultivated these hills in former
+times. Thunder all the morning, and a few drops of rain fell. It will
+ease the men's feet when it does fall. They call out earnestly for it,
+"Come, come with hail!" and prepare their huts for it.
+
+_31st October, 1872._--Through a long pass after we had climbed over
+Winelao. Came to an islet one and a half mile long, called Kapessa, and
+then into a long pass. The population of Megunda must have been
+prodigious, for all the stones have been cleared, and every available
+inch of soil cultivated.
+
+The population are said to have been all swept away by the Matuta.
+
+Going south we came to a very large arm of the Lake, with a village at
+the end of it in a stockade. This arm is seven or eight miles long and
+about two broad. We killed a cow to-day, and found peculiar flat worms
+in the substance of the liver, and some that were rounded.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] Without entering into the merits of a disputed point as to
+whether the men on their return journey would have been brought to a
+standstill at Unyanyemb� but for the opportune presence of Lieutenant
+Cameron and his party, it will be seen nevertheless that this entry
+fully bears out the assertion of the men that they had cloth laid by
+in store here for the journey to the coast.
+
+It seems that by an unfortunate mistake a box of desiccated milk, of
+which the Doctor was subsequently in great need, was left behind
+amongst these goods. The last words written by him will remind one of
+the circumstance. On their return the unlucky box was the first thing
+that met Susi's eye!--ED.
+
+[24] Midday halt.
+
+[25] Sweet potatoes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chitu�ku�'s. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country.
+
+
+_1st November, 1872._--We hear that an eruption of Babemba, on the
+Baulungu, destroyed all the food. We tried to buy food here, but
+everything is hidden in the mountains, so we have to wait to-day till
+they fetch it. If in time, we shall make an afternoon's march. Raining
+to-day. The Eiver Mulu from Chingolao gave us much trouble in crossing
+from being filled with vegetation: it goes into Tanganyika. Our course
+south and east.
+
+_2nd November, 1872._--Deceived by a guide, who probably feared his
+countrymen in front. Went round a stony cape, and then to a land-locked
+harbour, three miles long by two broad. Here was a stockade, where our
+guide absconded. They told us that if we continued our march we should
+not get water for four hours, so we rested, having marched four and a
+quarter hours.
+
+_3rd November, 1872._--We marched this morning to a village where food
+was reported. I had to punish two useless men for calling out, "Posho!
+posho! posho!" (rations) as soon as I came near. One is a confirmed
+bang�-smoker;[26]the blows were given slightly, but I promised that the
+next should be severe. The people of Liemba village having a cow or two,
+and some sheep and goats, eagerly advised us to go on to the next
+village, as being just behind a hill, and well provisioned. Four very
+rough hills were the penalty of our credulity, taking four hours of
+incessant toil in these mountain fastnesses. They hide their food, and
+the paths are the most difficult that can be found, in order to wear out
+their enemies. To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five and
+a half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice.
+
+_4th November, 1872._--All very tired. We tried to get food, but it is
+very dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably brought from
+Fipa. A rest will be beneficial to us.
+
+_5th November, 1872._--We went up a high mountain, but found that one of
+the cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to be
+slaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the people went
+down for water.
+
+_6th November, 1872._--Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steep
+mountain. Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb we look
+down on the Lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare floats over it.
+Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and looked sheer down 500 feet
+or 600 feet into its dark green waters. We saw three zebras and a young
+python here, and fine flowers.
+
+_7th November, 1872, Sunday._--Remained, but the headman forbade his
+people to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him to a parley,
+which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in defiance, as if he were
+inclined to fighting. At last, seeing that we took no notice of him, he
+sent us a present; I returned three times its value.
+
+_8th November, 1872._--The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climb
+the high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and they did
+it well. I then sent some to find a path out from the Lake mountains,
+for they will kill us all; others were despatched to buy food, but the
+Lake folks are poor except in fish.
+
+Swifts in flocks were found on the Lake when we came to it, and there
+are small migrations of swallows ever since. Though this is the very
+hottest time of year, and all the plants are burnt off or quite dried,
+the flowers persist in bursting out of the hot dry surface, generally
+without leaves. A purple ginger, with two yellow patches inside, is very
+lovely to behold, and it is alternated with one of a bright canary
+yellow; many trees, too, put on their blossoms. The sun makes the soil
+so hot that the radiation is as if it came from a furnace. It burns the
+feet of the people, and knocks them up. Subcutaneous inflammation is
+frequent in the legs, and makes some of my most hardy men useless. We
+have been compelled to slowness very much against my will. I too was
+ill, and became better only by marching on foot. Riding exposes one to
+the bad influence of the sun, while by walking the perspiration modifies
+beneficially the excessive heat. It is like the difference in effect of
+cold if one is in activity or sitting, and falling asleep on a
+stage-coach. I know ten hot fountains north of the Orange River; the
+further north the more hot and numerous they become.
+
+[Just here we find a note, which does not bear reference to anything
+that occurred at this time. Men, in the midst of their hard earnest
+toil, perceive great truths with a sharpness of outline and a depth of
+conviction which is denied to the mere idle theorist: he says:--]
+
+The spirit of Missions is the spirit of our Master: the very genius of
+His religion. A diffusive philanthropy is Christianity itself. It
+requires perpetual propagation to attest its genuineness.
+
+_9th November, 1872._--We got very little food, and kill a calf to fill
+our mouths a little. A path east seems to lead out from these mountains
+of Tanganyika. We went on east this morning in highland open forest,
+then descended by a long slope to a valley in which there is water. Many
+Milenga gardens, but the people keep out of sight. The highlands are of
+a purple colour from the new leaves coming out. The donkey began to eat
+to my great joy. Men sent off to search for a village return
+empty-handed, and we must halt. I am ill and losing much blood.
+
+_10th November, 1872._--Out from the Lake mountains, and along high
+ridges of sandstone and dolomite. Our guide volunteered to take the men
+on to a place where food can be bought--a very acceptable offer. The
+donkey is recovering; it was distinctly the effects of tsetse, for the
+eyes and all the mouth and nostrils swelled. Another died at Kwihara
+with every symptom of tsetse poison fully developed.
+
+[The above remarks on the susceptibility of the donkey to the bite of
+the tsetse fly are exceedingly important. Hitherto Dr. Livingstone had
+always maintained, as the result of his own observations, that this
+animal, at all events, could be taken through districts in which horses,
+mules, dogs, and oxen would perish to a certainty. With the keen
+perception and perseverance of one who was exploring Africa with a view
+to open it up for Europeans, he laid great stress on these experiments,
+and there is no doubt that the distinct result which he here arrived at
+must have a very significant bearing on the question of travel and
+transport.
+
+Still passing through the same desolate country, we see that he makes a
+note on the forsaken fields and the watch-towers in them. Cucumbers are
+cultivated in large quantities by the natives of Inner Africa, and the
+reader will no doubt call to mind the simile adopted by Isaiah some 2500
+years ago, as he pictured the coming desolation of Zion, likening her to
+a "lodge in a garden of cucumbers."[27]]
+
+_11th November, 1872._--Over
+gently undulating country, with many old gardens and watch-houses, some
+of great height, we reached the River Kalambo, which I know as falling
+into Tanganyika. A branch joins it at the village of Mosapasi; it is
+deep, and has to be crossed by a bridge, whilst the Kalambo is shallow,
+and say twenty yards wide, but it spreads out a good deal.
+
+[Their journey of the _12th_ and _13th_ led them over low ranges of
+sandstone and h�matite, and past several strongly stockaded villages.
+The weather was cloudy and showery--a relief, no doubt, after the
+burning heat of the last few weeks. They struck the Haloch�ch� River, a
+rapid stream fifteen yards wide and thigh deep, on its way to the Lake,
+and arrived at Zomb�'s town, which is built in such a manner that the
+river runs through it, whilst a stiff palisade surrounds it. He says:--]
+
+It was entirely surrounded by M'toka's camp, and a constant fight
+maintained at the point where the line of stakes was weakened by the
+river running through. He killed four of the enemy, and then Chitimbwa
+and Kasonso coming to help him, the siege was raised.
+
+M'toka compelled some Malongwana to join him, and plundered many
+villages; he has been a great scourge. He also seems to have made an
+attack upon an Arab caravan, plundering it of six bales of cloth and one
+load of beads, telling them that if they wanted to get their things back
+they must come and help him conquer Zomb�. The siege lasted three
+months, till the two brothers of Zomb�, before-mentioned, came, and then
+a complete rout ensued. M'toka left nearly all his guns behind him; his
+allies, the Malongwana, had previously made their escape. It is two
+months since this rout, so we have been prevented by a kind Providence
+from coming soon enough. He was impudent and extortionate before, and
+much more now that he has been emboldened by success in plundering.
+
+_16th November, 1872._--After waiting some time for the men I sent men
+back yesterday to look after the sick donkey, they arrived, but the
+donkey died this morning. Its death was evidently caused by tsetse bite
+and bad usage by one of the men, who kept it forty-eight hours without
+water. The rain, no doubt, helped to a fatal end; it is a great loss to
+me.
+
+_17th November, 1872._--We went on along the bottom of a high ridge that
+flanks the Lake on the west, and then turned up south-east to a village
+hung on the edge of a deep chasm in which flows the Aeezy.
+
+_18th November, 1872._--We were soon overwhelmed in a pouring rain, and
+had to climb up the slippery red path which is parallel and near to
+Mb�tt�'s. One of the men picked up a little girl who had been deserted
+by her mother. As she was benumbed by cold and wet he carried her; but
+when I came up he threw her into the grass. I ordered a man to carry
+her, and we gave her to one of the childless women; she is about four
+years old, and not at all negro-looking. Our march took us about S.W. to
+Kampamba's, the son of Kasonso, who is dead.
+
+_19th November, 1872._--I visited Kampamba. He is still as agreeable as
+he was before when he went with us to Liemba. I gave him two cloths as a
+present. He has a good-sized village. There are heavy rains now and then
+every day.
+
+_20th, 21st, and 23rd November, 1872._--The men turn to stringing beads
+for future use, and to all except defaulters I give a present of 2
+dotis, and a handful of beads each. I have diminished the loads
+considerably, which pleases them much. We have now 3-1/2 loads of
+calico, and 120 bags of beads. Several go idle, but have to do any odd
+work, such as helping the sick or anything they are ordered to do. I
+gave the two Nassickers who lost the cow and calf only 1 doti, they were
+worth 14 dotis. One of our men is behind, sick with dysentery. I am
+obliged to leave him, but have sent for him twice, and have given him
+cloth and beads.
+
+_24th November, 1872._--Left Kampamba's to-day, and cross a meadow S.E.
+of the village in which the River Muanani rises. It flows into the
+Kapondosi and so on to the Lake. We made good way with Kiteneka as our
+guide, who formerly accompanied Kampamba and ourselves to Liemba. We
+went over a flat country once covered with trees, but now these have all
+been cut down, say 4 to 5 feet from the ground, most likely for
+clearing, as the reddish soil is very fertile. Long lines of hills of
+denudation are in the distance, all directed to the Lake.
+
+We came at last to Kasonso's successor's village on the River Molulw�,
+which is, say, thirty yards wide, and thigh deep. It goes to the Lofu.
+The chief here gave a sheep--a welcome present, for I was out of flesh
+for four days. Kampamba is stingy as compared with his father.
+
+_25th November, 1872._--We came in an hour's march to a rivulet called
+the Casembe--the departed Kasonso lived here. The stream is very deep,
+and flows slowly to the Lofu. Our path lay through much pollarded
+forest, troublesome to walk in, as the stumps send out leafy shoots.
+
+_26th November, 1872._--Started at daybreak. The grass was loaded with
+dew, and a heavy mist hung over everything. Passed two villages of
+people come out to cultivate this very fertile soil, which they manure
+by burning branches of trees. The Rivulet Loela flows here, and is also
+a tributary of the Lofu.
+
+_27th November, 1872._--As it is Sunday we stay here at N'dari's
+village, for we shall be in an uninhabited track to-morrow, beyond the
+Lofu. The headman cooked six messes for us and begged us to remain for
+more food, which we buy. He gave us a handsome present of flour and a
+fowl, for which I return him a present of a doti. Very heavy rain and
+high gusts of wind, which wet us all.
+
+_28th November, 1872._--We came to the River Lofu in a mile. It is
+sixty feet across and very deep. We made a bridge, and cut the banks
+down, so that the donkey and cattle could pass over. It took us two
+hours, during which time we hauled them all across with a rope. We were
+here misled by our guide, who took us across a marsh covered with tufts
+of grass, but with deep water between that never dries; there is a path
+which goes round it. We came to another village with a river which must
+be crossed--no stockade here, and the chief allowed us to camp in his
+town. There are long low lines of hills all about. A man came to the
+bridge to ask for toll-fee: as it was composed of one stick only, and
+unfit for our use because rotten, I agreed to pay provided he made it
+fit for our large company; but if I re-made and enlarged it, I said he
+ought to give me a goat for the labour. He slunk away, and we laid large
+trees across, where previously there was but one rotten pole.
+
+_29th November, 1872._--Crossed the Loozi in two branches, and climbed
+up the gentle ascent of Malemb� to the village of Chiw�, whom I formerly
+called Chibw�, being misled by the Yao tongue. Ilamba is the name of the
+rill at his place. The Loozi's two branches were waist deep. The first
+was crossed by a natural bridge of a fig-tree growing across. It runs
+into the Lofu, which river rises in Isunga country at a mountain called
+Kwitett�. The Chambez� rises east of this, and at the same place as
+Louzua.
+
+Chiw� presented a small goat with crooked legs and some millet flour,
+but he grumbled at the size of the fathom cloth I gave. I offered
+another fathom, and a bundle of needles, but he grumbled at this too,
+and sent it back. On this I returned his goat and marched.
+
+[The road lay through the same country among low hills, for several
+miles, till they came on the _1st December_ to a rivulet called Lovu
+Katanta, where curiously enough they found a nutmeg-tree in full
+bearing. A wild species is found at Angola on the West Coast and it was
+probably of this description, and not the same species as that which is
+cultivated in the East. In two places he says:--]
+
+Who planted the nutmeg-tree on the Katanta?
+
+[Passing on with heavy rain pouring down, they now found themselves in
+the Wemba country, the low tree-covered hills exhibiting here and there
+"fine-grained schist and igneous rocks of red, white, and green
+colour."]
+
+_3rd December, 1872._--No food to be got on account of M'toka's and Tipo
+Tipo's raids.
+
+A stupid or perverse guide took us away to-day N.W. or W.N.W. The
+villagers refused to lead us to Chipwit�'s, where food was to be had; he
+is S.W. 1-1/2 day off. The guide had us at his mercy, for he said, "If
+you go S.W. you will be five days without food or people." We crossed
+the Ka�omba, fifteen yards wide, and knee deep. Here our guide
+disappeared, and so did the path. We crossed the Lampussi twice; it is
+forty yards wide, and knee deep; our course is W.N.W. for about 4-1/2
+hours to-day. We camped and sent men to search for a village that has
+food. My third barometer (aneroid) is incurably injured by a fall, the
+man who carried it slipped upon a clayey path.
+
+_4th December, 1872._--Waiting for the return of our men in a green
+wooded valley on the Lampussi River. Those who were sent yesterday
+return without anything; they were directed falsely by the country
+people, where nought could be bought. The people themselves are living
+on grubs, roots, and fruits. The young plasterer Sphex is very fat on
+coming out of its clay house, and a good relish for food. A man came to
+us demanding his wife and child; they are probably in hiding; the slaves
+of Tipo Tipo have been capturing people. One sinner destroyeth much
+good!
+
+_5th December, 1872._--The people eat mushrooms and leaves. My men
+returned about 5 P.M. with two of Kafimb�'s men bringing a present of
+food to me. A little was bought, and we go on to-morrow to sleep two
+nights on the way, and so to Kafimb�, who is a brother of Nsama's, and
+fights him.
+
+_6th December, 1872._--We cross the Lampussi again, and up to a mountain
+along which we go, and then down to some ruins. This took us five hours,
+and then with 2-1/4 more hours we reach Sintila. We hasten along as fast
+as hungry men (four of them sick) can go to get food.
+
+_1th December, 1872._--Off at 6.15 A.M. A leopard broke in upon us last
+night and bit a woman. She screamed, and so did the donkey, and it ran
+off. Our course lay along between two ranges of low hills, then, where
+they ended, we went by a good-sized stream thirty yards or so across,
+and then down into a valley to Kafimb�'s.
+
+_8th December, 1872._--Very heavy rains. I visited Kafimb�. He is an
+intelligent and pleasant young man, who has been attacked several times
+by Kitandula, the successor of Nsama of Itawa, and compelled to shift
+from Motononga to this rivulet Motosi, which flows into the Kisi and
+thence into Lake Moero.
+
+_9th December, 1872._--Send off men to a distance for food, and wait of
+course. Here there is none for either love or money. To-day a man came
+from the Arab party at Kumba-Kumba's with a present of M'chel� and a
+goat. He reports that they have killed Casembe, whose people concealed
+from him the approach of the enemy till they were quite near. Having no
+stockade, he fell an easy prey to them. The conquerors put his head and
+all his ornaments on poles. His pretty wife escaped over Mofw�, and the
+slaves of the Arabs ran riot everywhere. We sent a return present of two
+dotis of cloth, one jorah of Kanik�, one doti of coloured cloth, three
+pounds of beads, and a paper of needles.
+
+_10th December, 1872._--Left Kafimb�'s. He gave us three men to take us
+into Chama's village, and came a mile along the road with us. Our road
+took us by a winding course from one little deserted village to another.
+
+_11th December, 1872._--Being far from water we went two hours across a
+plain dotted with villages to a muddy rivulet called the Mukubw� (it
+runs to Moero), where we found the village of a nephew of Nsama. This
+young fellow was very liberal in gifts of food, and in return I gave him
+two cloths. An Arab, Juma bin Seff, sent a goat to-day. They have been
+riding it roughshod over all the inhabitants, and confess it.
+
+_12th December, 1872._--Marenza sent a present of dura flour and a fowl,
+and asked for a little butter as a charm. He seems unwilling to give us
+a guide, though told by Kafimb� to do so. Many Garaganza about: they
+trade in leglets, ivory, and slaves. We went on half-an-hour to the
+River Moko�, which is thirty yards wide, and carries off much water into
+Malunda, and so to Lake Moero.
+
+When palm-oil palms are cut down for toddy, they are allowed to lie
+three days, then the top shoot is cut off smoothly, and the toddy begins
+to flow; and it flows for a month, or a month and a half or so, lying on
+the soil.
+
+[The note made on the following day is written with a feeble hand, and
+scarce one pencilled word tallies with its neighbour in form or
+distinctness--in fact, it is seen at a glance what exertion it cost him
+to write at all. He says no more than "Ill" in one place, but this is
+the evident explanation; yet with the same painstaking determination of
+old, the three rivers which they crossed have their names recorded, and
+the hours of marching and the direction are all entered in his pocket
+book.]
+
+_13th December, 1872._--Westward about by south, and crossed a river,
+Mokobw�, thirty-five yards. Ill, and after going S.W. camped in a
+deserted village, S.W. travelling five hours. River Mekanda 2nd. Me�omba
+3, where we camp.
+
+_14th December, 1872._--Guides turned N.W. to take us to a son of
+Nsama, and so play the usual present into his hands. I objected when I
+saw their direction, but they said, "The path turns round in front."
+After going a mile along the bank of the Me�omba, which has much water,
+Susi broke through and ran south, till he got a S. by W. path, which we
+followed, and came to a village having plenty of food. As we have now
+camped in village, we sent the men off to recall the fugitive women, who
+took us for Komba-Komba's men. Crossed the Luper�, which runs into the
+Makobw�.
+
+A leech crawling towards me in the village this morning elicited the
+Bemba idea that they fall from the clouds or sky--"mulu." It is called
+here "Mosunda a maluz�," or leech of the rivers; "Luba" is the Zanzibar
+name. In one place I counted nineteen leeches in our path, in about a
+mile; rain had fallen, and their appearance out of their hiding-places
+suddenly after heavy rain may have given rise to the idea of their fall
+with it as fishes do, and the thunder frog is supposed to do. Always too
+cloudy and rainy for observations of stars.
+
+_15th December, 1872._--The country is now level, covered with trees
+pollarded for clothing, and to make ashes of for manure. There are many
+deserted villages, few birds. Cross the Eiver Lithabo, thirty yards wide
+and thigh deep, running fast to the S.W., joined by a small one near.
+Reached village of Chipala, on the Rivulet Chikatula, which goes to
+Moipanza. The Lithabo goes to Kalongwesi by a S.W. course.
+
+_16th December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. across the Chikatula, and in
+three-quarters of an hour crossed the Lopanza, twelve yards wide and
+waist deep, being now in flood. The Lolela was before us in
+half-an-hour, eight yards wide and thigh deep, both streams perennial
+and embowered in tall umbrageous trees that love wet; both flow to the
+Kalongwesi.
+
+We came to quite a group of villages having food, and remain, as we got
+only driblets in the last two camps. Met two Banyamwezi carrying salt to
+Lobemba, of Moambu. They went to Kabuir� for it, and now retail it on
+the way back.
+
+At noon we got to the village of Kasian�, which is close to two
+rivulets, named Lopanza and Lolela. The headman, a relative of Nsama,
+brought me a large present of flour of dura, and I gave him two fathoms
+of calico.
+
+Floods by these sporadic rainfalls have discoloured waters, as seen in
+Lopanza and Lolela to-day. The grass is all springing up quickly, and
+the Maleza growing fast. The trees generally in full foliage. Different
+shades of green, the dark prevailing; especially along rivulets, and the
+hills in the distance are covered with dark blue haze. Here, in Lobemba,
+they are gentle slopes of about 200 or 300 feet, and sandstone crops out
+over their tops. In some parts clay schists appear, which look as if
+they had been fused or were baked by intense heat.
+
+The pugnacious spirit is one of the necessities of life. When people
+have little or none of it, they are subjected to indignity and loss. My
+own men walk into houses where we pass the nights without asking any
+leave, and steal cassava without shame. I have to threaten and thrash to
+keep them honest, while if we are at a village where the natives are a
+little pugnacious they are as meek as sucking doves. The peace plan
+involves indignity and wrong. I give little presents to the headmen, and
+to some extent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is indeed much
+appreciated, and produces profound hand-clapping.
+
+_17th December, 1872._--It looked rainy, but we waited half-an-hour, and
+then went on one hour and a half, when it set in and forced us to seek
+shelter in a village. The head of it was very civil, and gave us two
+baskets of cassava, and one of dura. I gave a small present first. The
+district is called Kisinga, and flanks the Kalongwez�.
+
+_18th December, 1872._--Over same flat pollarded forest until we
+reached the Kalongwes� Kiver on the right bank, and about a quarter of a
+mile east of the confluence of the Lu�na or Kisaka. This side of the
+river is called Kisinga, the other is Chama's and Kisinga too. The Luena
+comes from Jang� in Casembe's land, or W.S.W. of this. The Kalongwes�
+comes from the S.E. of this, and goes away N.W. The donkey sends a foot
+every now and then through the roof of cavities made apparently by ants,
+and sinks down 18 inches or more and nearly falls. These covered hollows
+are right in the paths.
+
+_19th December, 1872._--So cloudy and wet that no observations can be
+taken for latitude and longitude at this real geographical point. The
+Kalongwes� is sixty or eighty yards wide and four yards deep, about a
+mile above the confluence of the Lu�na. We crossed it in very small
+canoes, and swamped one twice, but no one was lost. Marched S. about
+1-1/4 hour.
+
+_20th December, 1872._--Shut in by heavy clouds. Wait to see if it will
+clear up. Went on at 7.15, drizzling as we came near the Mozumba or
+chiefs stockade. A son of Chama tried to mislead us by setting out west,
+but the path being grass-covered I objected, and soon came on to the
+large clear path. The guide ran off to report to the son, but we kept on
+our course, and he and the son followed us. We were met by a party, one
+of whom tried to regale us by vociferous singing and trumpeting on an
+antelope's horn, but I declined the deafening honour. Had we suffered
+the misleading we should have come here to-morrow afternoon.
+
+A wet bed last night, for it was in the canoe that was upset. It was so
+rainy that there was no drying it.
+
+_21st December, 1872._--Arrived at Chama's. Heavy clouds drifting past,
+and falling drizzle. Chama's brother tried to mislead us yesterday, in
+hopes of making us wander hopelessly and helplessly. Failing in this,
+from my refusal to follow a grass-covered path, he ran before us to the
+chief's stockade, and made all the women flee, which they did, leaving
+their chickens damless. We gave him two handsome cloths, one for himself
+and one for Chama, and said we wanted food only, and would buy it. They
+are accustomed to the bullying of half-castes, who take what they like
+for nothing. They are alarmed at our behaviour to-day, so we took quiet
+possession of the stockade, as the place that they put us in was on the
+open defenceless plain. Seventeen human skulls ornament the stockade.
+They left their fowls, and pigeons. There was no bullying. Our women
+went in to grind food, and came out without any noise. This flight seems
+to be caused by the foolish brother of the chief, and it is difficult to
+prevent stealing by my horde. The brother came drunk, and was taking off
+a large sheaf of arrows, when we scolded and prevented him.
+
+_22nd December, 1872._--We crossed a rivulet at Chama's village ten
+yards wide and thigh deep, and afterwards in an hour and a half came to
+a sedgy stream which we could barely cross. We hauled a cow across
+bodily. Went on mainly south, and through much bracken.
+
+_23rd December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. in a mist, and in an hour and a
+quarter came to three large villages by three rills called Misangwa, and
+much sponge; went on to other villages south, and a stockade.
+
+_24th December, 1872._--Cloud in sky with drifting clouds from S. and
+S.W. Very wet and drizzling. Sent back Chama's arrows, as his foolish
+brother cannot use them against us now; there are 215 in the bundle.
+Passed the Lopopussi running west to the Lofubu about seven yards wide,
+it flows fast over rocks with heavy aquatic plants. The people are not
+afraid of us here as they were so distressingly elsewhere: we hope to
+buy food here.
+
+_25th December, 1872, Christmas Day._--I thank the good Lord for the
+good gift of His Son Christ Jesus our Lord. Slaughtered an ox, and gave
+a fundo and a half to each of the party. This is our great day, so we
+rest. It is cold and wet, day and night. The headman is gracious and
+generous, which is very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing to
+sell, or stop to speak, or show the way.
+
+The White Nile carrying forward its large quasi-tidal wave presents a
+mass of water to the Blue Nile, which acts as a buffer to its rapid
+flood. The White Nile being at a considerable height when the Blue
+rushes down its steep slopes, presents its brother Nile with a soft
+cushion into which it plunges, and is restrained by the _vis inerti�_ of
+the more slowly moving river, and, both united, pass on to form the
+great inundation of the year in Lower Egypt. The Blue River brings down
+the heavier portion of the Nile deposit, while the White River comes
+down with the black finely divided matter from thousands of square miles
+of forest in Manyuema, which probably gave the Nile its name, and is in
+fact the real fertilizing ingredient in the mud that is annually left.
+Some of the rivers in Manyuema, as the Luia and Machila, are of inky
+blackness, and make the whole main stream of a very Nilotic hue. An
+acquaintance with these dark flowing rivers, and scores of rills of
+water tinged as dark as strong tea, was all my reward for plunging
+through the terrible Manyuema mud or "glaur."
+
+_26th December, 1872._--Along among the usual low tree-covered hills of
+red and yellow and green schists--paths wet and slippery. Came to the
+Lofubu, fifteen yards broad and very deep, water clear, flowing
+north-west to join Lu�na or Kisaka, as the Lopopussi goes west too into
+Lofubu it becomes large as we saw. We crossed by a bridge, and the
+donkey swam with men on each side of him. We came to three villages on
+the other side with many iron furnaces. Wet and drizzling weather made
+us stop soon. A herd of buffaloes, scared by our party, rushed off and
+broke the trees in their hurry, otherwise there is no game or marks of
+game visible.
+
+_27th December, 1872._--Leave the villages on the Lofubu. A cascade
+comes down on our left. The country undulating deeply, the hills, rising
+at times 300 to 400 feet, are covered with stunted wood. There is much
+of the common bracken fern and hart's-tongue. We cross one rivulet
+running to the Lofubu, and camp by a blacksmith's rill in the jungle. No
+rain fell to-day for a wonder, but the lower tier of clouds still drifts
+past from N.W.
+
+I killed a Naia Hadje snake seven feet long here, he reared up before me
+and turned to fight. The under north-west stratum of clouds is composed
+of fluffy cottony masses, the edges spread out as if on an electrical
+machine--the upper or south-east is of broad fields like striated cat's
+hair. The N.W. flies quickly, the S.E. slowly away where the others come
+from. No observations have been possible through most of this month.
+People assert that the new moon will bring drier weather, and the clouds
+are preparing to change the N.W. lower stratum into S.E., ditto, ditto,
+and the N.W. will be the upper tier.
+
+A man, ill and unable to come on, was left all night in the rain,
+without fire. We sent men back to carry him. Wet and cold. We are
+evidently ascending as we come near the Chambez�. The N.E. clouds came
+up this morning to meet the N.W. and thence the S.E. came across as if
+combating the N.W. So as the new moon comes soon, it may be a real
+change to drier weather.
+
+4 P.M.--The man carried in here is very ill; we must carry him
+to-morrow.
+
+_29th December, 1872._--Our man Chipangawazi died last night and was
+buried this morning. He was a quiet good man, his disease began at
+Kampamba's. New moon last night.
+
+_29th, or 1st January, 1873._--I am wrong two days.
+
+_29th December, 1872._--After the burial and planting four branches of
+Mori�ga at the corners of the grave we went on southwards 3-1/4 hours to
+a river, the Luongo, running strongly west and south to the Luapula,
+then after one hour crossed it, twelve yards wide and waist deep. We met
+a man with four of his kindred stripping off bark to make bark-cloth: he
+gives me the above information about the Luongo.
+
+_1st January, 1873. (30th.)_--Came on at 6 A.M. very cold. The rains
+have ceased for a time. Arrive at the village of the man who met us
+yesterday. As we have been unable to buy food, through the illness and
+death of Chipangawazi, I camp here.
+
+_2nd January, 1873._--Thursday--Wednesday was the 1st, I was two days
+wrong.
+
+_3rd January, 1873._--The villagers very anxious to take us to the west
+to Chikumbi's, but I refused to follow them, and we made our course to
+the Luongo. Went into the forest south without a path for 1-1/2 hour,
+then through a flat forest, much fern and no game. We camped in the
+forest at the Situngula Rivulet. A little quiet rain through the night.
+A damp climate this--lichens on all the trees, even on those of 2 inches
+diameter. Our last cow died of injuries received in crossing the Lofubu.
+People buy it for food, so it is not an entire loss.
+
+_4th January, 1873._--March south one hour to the Lopoposi or Lopopozi
+stream of 25 or 30 feet, and now breast deep, flowing fast southwards to
+join the Chambez�. Camped at Keteb�'s at 2 P.M. on the Rivulet Kizima
+after very heavy rain.
+
+_5th January, 1873._--A woman of our party is very ill; she will require
+to be carried to-morrow.
+
+_6th January, 1873._--Keteb� or Kapesha very civil and generous. He sent
+three men to guide us to his elder brother Chungu. The men drum and sing
+harshly for him continually. I gave him half-a-pound of powder, and he
+lay on his back rolling and clapping his hands, and all his men
+lulliloed; then he turned on his front, and did the same. The men are
+very timid--no wonder, the Arab slaves do as they choose with them. The
+women burst out through, the stockade in terror when my men broke into
+a chorus as they were pitching my tent. Cold, cloudy, and drizzling.
+Much cultivation far from the stockades.
+
+The sponges here are now full and overflowing, from the continuous and
+heavy rains. Crops of mileza, maize, cassava, dura, tobacco, beans,
+ground-nuts, are growing finely. A border is made round each patch,
+manured by burning the hedge, and castor-oil plants, pumpkins,
+calabashes, are planted in it to spread out over the grass.
+
+_7th January, 1873._--A cold rainy day keeps us in a poor village very
+unwillingly. 3 P.M. Fair, after rain all the morning--on to the Rivulet
+Kamalopa, which runs to Kamolozzi and into Kapopozi.
+
+_8th January, 1873._--Detained by heavy continuous rains in the village
+Moenje. We are near Lake Bangweolo and in a damp region. Got off in the
+afternoon in a drizzle; crossed a rill six feet wide, but now very deep,
+and with large running sponges on each side; it is called the Kamalopa,
+then one hour beyond came to a sponge, and a sluggish rivulet 100 yards
+broad with broad sponges on either bank waist deep, and many leeches.
+Came on through flat forest as usual S.W. and S.
+
+[We may here call attention to the alteration of the face of the country
+and the prominent notice of "sponges." His men speak of the march from
+this point as one continual plunge in and out of morass, and through
+rivers which were only distinguishable from the surrounding waters by
+their deep currents and the necessity for using canoes. To a man reduced
+in strength and chronically affected with dysenteric symptoms ever
+likely to be aggravated by exposure, the effect may be well conceived!
+It is probable that had Dr. Livingstone been at the head of a hundred
+picked Europeans, every man would have been down within the next
+fortnight. As it is, we cannot help thinking of his company of
+followers, who must have been well led and under the most thorough
+control to endure these marches at all, for nothing cows the African so
+much as rain. The next day's journey may be taken as a specimen of the
+hardships every one had to endure:--]
+
+_9th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. After an hour we crossed the
+rivulet and sponge of Nkulumuna, 100 feet of rivulet and 200 yards of
+flood, besides some 200 yards of sponge full and running off; we then,
+after another hour, crossed the large rivulet Lopopozi by a bridge which
+was 45 feet long, and showed the deep water; then 100 yards of flood
+thigh deep, and 200 or 300 yards of sponge. After this we crossed two
+rills called Li�kanda and their sponges, the rills in flood 10 or 12
+feet broad and thigh deep. After crossing the last we came near the
+Mosumba, and received a message to build our sheds in the forest, which
+we did.
+
+Chungu knows what a nuisance a Safari (caravan) makes itself. Cloudy
+day, and at noon heavy rain from N.W. The headman on receiving two
+cloths said he would converse about our food and show it to-morrow. No
+observations can be made, from clouds and rain.
+
+_10th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. Rest to-day and get an insight
+into the ford: cold rainy weather. When we prepared to visit Chungu, we
+received a message that he had gone to his plantations to get millet. He
+then sent for us at 1 P.M. to come, but on reaching the stockade we
+heard a great Kel�l�, or uproar, and found it being shut from terror. We
+spoke to the inmates but in vain, so we returned. Chungu says that we
+should put his head on a pole like Casembe's! We shall go on without him
+to-morrow. The terror guns have inspired is extreme.
+
+_11th January, 1873._--Chungu sent a goat and big basket of flour, and
+excused his fears because guns had routed Casembe and his head was put
+on a pole; it was his young men that raised the noise. We remain to buy
+food, as there is scarcity at Mombo, in front. Cold and rainy weather,
+never saw the like; but this is among the sponges of the Nile and near
+the northern shores of Bangweolo.
+
+_12th January, 1873._--A dry day enabled us to move forward an hour to a
+rivulet and sponge, but by ascending it we came to its head and walked
+over dryshod, then one hour to another broad rivulet--Pinda, sluggish,
+and having 100 yards of sponge on each side. This had a stockaded
+village, and the men in terror shut the gates. Our men climbed over and
+opened them, but I gave the order to move forward through flat forest
+till we came to a running rivulet of about twenty feet, but with 100
+yards of sponge on each side. The white sand had come out as usual and
+formed the bottom. Here we entered a village to pass the night. We
+passed mines of fine black iron ore ("motapo"); it is magnetic.
+
+_13th January, 1873._--Storm-stayed by rain and cold at the village on
+the Rivulet Kalambosi, near the Chambez�. Never was in such a spell of
+cold rainy weather except in going to Loanda in 1853. Sent back for
+food.
+
+_14th January, 1873._--Went on dry S.E. and then S. two hours to River
+Mozinga, and marched parallel to it till we came to the confluence of
+Kasi�. Mosinga, 25 feet, waist deep, with 150 yards of sponge on right
+bank and about 50 yards on left. There are many plots of cassava, maize,
+millet, dura, ground-nuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded with
+strong high hedges skilfully built, and manured with wood ashes. The
+villagers are much afraid of us. After 4-1/2 hours we were brought up by
+the deep rivulet Mpanda, to be crossed to-morrow in canoes. There are
+many flowers in the forest: marigolds, a white jonquil-looking flower
+without smell, many orchids, white, yellow, and pink Asclepias, with
+bunches of French-white flowers, clematis--_Methonica gloriosa_,
+gladiolus, and blue and deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starry
+seed-vessels, and spikelets of brownish red and yellow. Besides these
+there are beautiful blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of pretty
+delicate form and but little scent. To this list may be added balsams,
+composit� of blood-red colour and of purple; other flowers of liver
+colour, bright canary yellow, pink orchids on spikes thickly covered all
+round, and of three inches in length; spiderworts of fine blue or yellow
+or even pink. Different coloured asclepedials; beautiful yellow and red
+umbelliferous flowering plants; dill and wild parsnips; pretty flowery
+aloes, yellow and red, in one whorl of blossoms; peas, and many other
+flowering plants which I do not know. Very few birds or any kind of
+game. The people are Babisa, who have fled from the west and are busy
+catching fish in basket traps.
+
+_15th January, 1873._--Found that Chungu had let us go astray towards
+the Lake, and into an angle formed by the Mpand� and Lopopussi, and the
+Lake-full of rivulets which are crossed with canoes. Chisupa, a headman
+on the other side of the Mpanda, sent a present and denounced Chungu for
+heartlessness. We explained to one man our change of route and went
+first N.E., then E. to the Monsinga, which we forded again at a deep
+place full of holes and rust-of-iron water, in which we floundered over
+300 yards. We crossed a sponge thigh deep before we came to the Mosinga,
+then on in flat forest to a stockaded village; the whole march about
+east for six hours.
+
+_16th January, 1873._--Away north-east and north to get out of the many
+rivulets near the Lake back to the River Lopopussi, which now looms
+large, and must be crossed in canoes. We have to wait in a village till
+these are brought, and have only got 1-3/4 hour nearly north.
+
+We were treated scurvily by Chungu. He knew that we were near the
+Chambez�, but hid the knowledge and himself too. It is terror of guns.
+
+_17th January, 1873._--We are troubled for want of canoes, but have to
+treat gently with the owners, otherwise they would all run away, as
+they have around Chungu's, in the belief that we should return to punish
+their silly headman. By waiting patiently yesterday, we drew about
+twenty canoes towards us this morning, but all too small for the donkey,
+so we had to turn away back north-west to the bridge above Chungu's. If
+we had tried to swim the donkey across alongside a canoe it would have
+been terribly strained, as the Lopopussi is here quite two miles wide
+and full of rushes, except in the main stream. It is all deep, and the
+country being very level as the rivulets come near to the Lake, they
+become very broad. Crossed two sponges with rivulets in their centre.
+
+Much cultivation in the forest. In the second year the mileza and maize
+are sickly and yellow white; in the first year, with fresh wood ashes,
+they are dark green and strong. Very much of the forest falls for
+manure. The people seem very eager cultivators. Possibly mounds have the
+potash brought up in forming.
+
+_18th January, 1873._--We lost a week by going to Chungu (a worthless
+terrified headman), and came back to the ford of Lopopussi, which we
+crossed, only from believing him to be an influential man who would
+explain the country to us. We came up the Lopopussi three hours
+yesterday, after spending two hours in going down to examine the canoes.
+We hear that Sayde bin Ali is returning from Katanga with much ivory.
+
+_19th January, 1873._--After prayers we went on to a fine village, and
+on from it to the Monons�, which, though only ten feet of deep stream
+flowing S., had some 400 yards of most fatiguing, plunging, deep sponge,
+which lay in a mass of dark-coloured rushes, that looked as if burnt
+off: many leeches plagued us. We were now two hours out. We went on two
+miles to another sponge and village, but went round its head dryshod,
+then two hours more to sponge Lovu. Flat forest as usual.
+
+_20th January, 1873._--Tried to observe lunars in vain; clouded over
+all, thick and muggy. Came on disappointed and along the Lovu 1-1/2
+mile. Crossed it by a felled tree lying over it. It is about six feet
+deep, with 150 yards of sponge. Marched about 2-1/2 hours: very
+unsatisfactory progress.
+
+[In answer to a question as to whether Dr. Livingstone could possibly
+manage to wade so much, Susi says that he was carried across these
+sponges and the rivulets on the shoulders of Chowp�r� or Chumah.]
+
+_21st January, 1873._--Fundi lost himself yesterday, and we looked out
+for him. He came at noon, having wandered in the eager pursuit of two
+herds of eland; having seen no game for a long time, he lost himself in
+the eager hope of getting one. We went on 2-1/2 hours, and were brought
+up by the River Malalanzi, which is about 15 feet wide, waist deep, and
+has 300 yards or more of sponge. Guides refused to come as Chitu�k�e,
+their headman, did not own them. We started alone: a man came after us
+and tried to mislead us in vain.
+
+_22nd January, 1873._--We pushed on through many deserted gardens and
+villages, the man evidently sent to lead us astray from our S.E. course;
+he turned back when he saw that we refused his artifice. Crossed another
+rivulet, possibly the Lofu, now broad and deep, and then came to another
+of several deep streams but sponge, not more than fifty feet in all.
+Here we remained, having travelled in fine drizzling rain all the
+morning. Population all gone from the war of Chitoka with this
+Chitu�k�e.
+
+No astronomical observations worth naming during December and January;
+impossible to take any, owing to clouds and rain.
+
+It is trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives lying and
+misleading us wherever they can. They fear us very, greatly, and with a
+terror that would gratify an anthropologist's heart. Their
+unfriendliness is made more trying by our being totally unable to
+observe for our position. It is either densely clouded, or continually
+raining day and night. The country is covered with brackens, and
+rivulets occur at least one every hour of the march. These are now deep,
+and have a broad selvage of sponge. The lower stratum of clouds moves
+quickly from the N.W.; the upper move slowly from S.E., and tell of rain
+near.
+
+_23rd January, 1873._--We have to send back to villages of Chitu�k�e to
+buy food. It was not reported to me that the country in front was
+depopulated for three days, so I send a day back. I don't know where we
+are, and the people are deceitful in their statements; unaccountably so,
+though we deal fairly and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tired
+on this watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keep
+everything and every place wet and sloppy.
+
+Our people return with a wretched present from Chitu�k�e; bad flour and
+a fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. He sent also an exorbitant
+demand for gunpowder, and payment of guides. I refused his present, and
+must plod on without guides, and this is very difficult from the
+numerous streams.
+
+_24th January, 1873._--Went on E. and N.E. to avoid the deep part of a
+large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chief
+would certainly hide them. Went 1-3/4 hour's journey to a large stream
+through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water, amongst sedges
+and sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for fifty yards, and
+the water cold. We plunged in elephants' footprints 1-1/2 hour, then
+came on one hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep,
+bridge covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad deep
+sedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was at
+least 2000 feet broad, or more than 300 yards. The first part, the main
+stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held
+up my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and when he
+sank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, so
+as to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Others
+went on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the side of
+the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear
+stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong current
+came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had the
+first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab-looking man, then
+Amoda, then Chanda, then Wad� Sal�, and each time I was lifted off
+bodily, and put on another pair of stout willing shoulders, and fifty
+yards put them out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folk
+of our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross over,
+and several came over turn to help me and their friends. The water was
+cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued us. We had to hasten
+on the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rain
+threatened us. After 4 P.M. it came on a pouring cold rain, when we were
+all under cover. We are anxious about food. The Lake is near, but we are
+not sure of provisions, as there have been changes of population. Our
+progress is distressingly slow. Wet, wet, wet; sloppy weather, truly,
+and no observations, except that the land near the Lake being very
+level, the rivers spread out into broad friths and sponges. The streams
+are so numerous that there has been a scarcity of names. Here we have
+Loon and Lu�na. We had two Loous before, and another Luena.
+
+_25th January, 1873._--Kept in by rain. A man from Unyanyemb� joined us
+this morning. He says that he was left sick. Rivulets and sponges again,
+and through flat forest, where, as usual, we can see the slope of the
+land by the leaves being washed into heaps in the direction which the
+water in the paths wished to take. One and a half hours more, and then
+to the River Loou, a large stream with bridge destroyed. Sent to make
+repairs before we go over it, and then passed. The river is deep, and
+flows fast to the S.W., having about 200 yards of safe flood flowing in
+long grass--clear water. The men built their huts, and had their camp
+ready by 3 P.M. A good day's work, not hindered by rain. The country all
+depopulated, so we can buy nothing. Elephants and antelopes have been
+here lately.
+
+_26th January, 1873._--I arranged to go to our next River Luena, and
+ascend it till we found it small enough for crossing, as it has much
+"Tinga-tinga," or yielding spongy soil; but another plan was formed by
+night, and we were requested to go down the Loou. Not wishing to appear
+overbearing, I consented until we were, after two hours' southing,
+brought up by several miles of Tinga-tinga. The people in a fishing
+village ran away from us, and we had to wait for some sick ones. The
+women are collecting mushrooms. A man came near us, but positively
+refused to guide us to Matipa, or anywhere else.
+
+The sick people compelled us to make an early halt.
+
+_27th January, 1873._--On again through streams, over sponges and
+rivulets thigh deep. There are marks of gnu and buffalo. I lose much
+blood, but it is a safety-valve for me, and I have no fever or other
+ailments.
+
+_28th January, 1873._--A dreary wet morning, and no food that we know of
+near. It is drop, drop, drop, and drizzling from the north-west. We
+killed our last calf but one last night to give each a mouthful. At 9.30
+we were allowed by the rain to leave our camp, and march S.E. for two
+hours to a strong deep rivulet ten feet broad only, but waist deep, and
+150 yards of flood all deep too. Sponge about forty yards in all, and
+running fast out. Camped by a broad prairie or Bouga.
+
+_29th January, 1873._--No rain in the night, for a wonder. We tramped
+1-1/4 hour to a broad sponge, having at least 300 yards of flood, and
+clear water flowing S.W., but no usual stream. All was stream flowing
+through the rushes, knee and thigh deep. On still with the same,
+repeated again and again, till we came to broad branching sponges, at
+which I resolved to send out scouts S., S.E., and S.W. The music of the
+singing birds, the music of the turtle doves, the screaming of the
+frankolin proclaim man to be near.
+
+_30th January, 1873._--Remain waiting for the scouts. Manuasera returned
+at dark, having gone about eight hours south, and seen the Lake and two
+islets. Smoke now appeared in the distance, so he turned, and the rest
+went on to buy food where the smoke was. Wet evening.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[26] Bang� or hemp in time produces partial idiotcy if smoked in
+excess. It is used amongst all the Interior tribes.
+
+[27] Isaiah i. 8.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chitu�ku�'s. At the chief's mercy.
+    Agreeably surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very
+    difficult march. Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends
+    scouts out to find villages. Message to Chirubw�. An ant raid.
+    Awaits news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of
+    Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and
+    Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at
+    Matipa's islet. Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit.
+    Tries to go on to Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a
+    demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and
+    detachment sent to Kabinga's. Extraordinary extent of flood.
+    Reaches Kabinga's. An upset. Crosses the Chambez�. The River
+    Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and water. A
+    disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations on fish.
+    Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous
+    state of Dr. Livingstone.
+
+
+_1st February, 1873._--Waiting for the scouts. They return
+unsuccessful--forced to do so by hunger. They saw a very large river
+flowing into the Lake, but did not come across a single soul. Killed our
+last calf, and turn back for four hard days' travel to Chitu�ku�'s. I
+send men on before us to bring food back towards us.
+
+_2nd February, 1873._--March smartly back to our camp of 28th ult. The
+people bear their hunger well. They collect mushrooms and plants, and
+often get lost in this flat featureless country.
+
+_3rd February, 1873._--Return march to our bridge on the Lofu, five
+hours. In going we went astray, and took six hours to do the work of
+five. Tried lunars in vain. Either sun or moon in clouds. On the Lu�na.
+
+_4th February, 1873._--Return to camp on the rivulet with much
+_Methonica gloriosa_ on its banks. Our camp being on its left bank of
+26th. It took long to cross the next river, probably the Kwal�, though
+the elephants' footprints are all filled up now. Camp among deserted
+gardens, which afford a welcome supply of cassava and sweet potatoes.
+The men who were sent on before us slept here last night, and have
+deceived us by going more slowly without loads than we who are loaded.
+
+_5th February, 1873._--Arrived at Chitu�ku�'s, crossing two broad deep
+brooks, and on to the Malalenzi, now swollen, having at least 200 yards
+of flood and more than 300 yards of sponge. Saluted by a drizzling
+shower. We are now at Chitu�ku�'s mercy.
+
+We find the chief more civil than we expected. He said each chief had
+his own land and his own peculiarities. He was not responsible for
+others. We were told that we had been near to Matipa and other chiefs:
+he would give us guides if we gave him a cloth and some powder.
+
+We returned over these forty-one miles in fifteen hours, through much
+deep water. Our scouts played us false both in time and beads: the
+headmen punished them. I got lunars, for a wonder. Visited Chitunkubw�,
+as his name properly is. He is a fine jolly-looking man, of a European
+cast of countenance, and very sensible and friendly. I gave him two
+cloths, for which he seemed thankful, and promised good guides to
+Matipa's. He showed me two of Matipa's men who had heard us firing guns
+to attract one of our men who had strayed; these men followed us. It
+seems we had been close to human habitations, but did not know it. We
+have lost half a month by this wandering, but it was all owing to the
+unfriendliness of some and the fears of all. I begged for a more
+northerly path, where the water is low. It is impossible to describe
+the amount of water near the Lake. Rivulets without number. They are so
+deep as to damp all ardour. I passed a very large striped spider in
+going to visit Chitunkubw�. The stripes were of yellowish green, and it
+had two most formidable reddish mandibles, the same shape as those of
+the redheaded white ant. It seemed to be eating a kind of ant with a
+light-coloured head, not seen elsewhere. A man killed it, and all the
+natives said that it was most dangerous. We passed gardens of dura;
+leaves all split up with hail, and forest leaves all punctured.
+
+_6th February, 1873._--Chitunkubw� gave a small goat and a large basket
+of flour as a return present. I gave him three-quarters of a pound of
+powder, in addition to the cloth.
+
+_7th February, 1873._--This chief showed his leanings by demanding
+prepayment for his guides. This being a preparatory step to their
+desertion I resisted, and sent men to demand what he meant by his words;
+he denied all, and said that his people lied, not he. We take this for
+what it is worth. He gives two guides to-morrow morning, and visits us
+this afternoon.
+
+_8th February, 1873._--The chief dawdles, although he promised great
+things yesterday. He places the blame on his people, who did not prepare
+food on account of the rain. Time is of no value to them. We have to
+remain over to-day. It is most trying to have to wait on frivolous
+pretences. I have endured such vexatious delays. The guides came at last
+with quantities of food, which they intend to bargain with my people on
+the way. A Nassicker who carried my saddle was found asleep near my
+camp.
+
+_9th February, 1873._--Slept in a most unwholesome, ruined village. Rank
+vegetation had run over all, and the soil smelled offensively. Crossed a
+sponge, then a rivulet, and sponge running into the Miwal� Eiver, then
+by a rocky passage we crossed the Mofiri, or great Tinga-tinga, a water
+running strongly waist and breast deep, above thirty feet broad here,
+but very much broader below. After this we passed two more rills and the
+River Methonua, but we build a camp above our former one. The human
+ticks called "papasi" by the Suaheli, and "karapatos" by the Portuguese,
+made even the natives call out against their numbers and ferocity.
+
+_10th February, 1873._--Back again to our old camp on the Lovu or Lofu
+by the bridge. We left in a drizzle, which continued from 4 A.M. to 1
+P.M. We were three hours in it, and all wetted, just on reaching camp by
+200 yards, of flood mid-deep; but we have food.
+
+_11th February, 1873._--Our guides took us across country, where we saw
+tracks of buffaloes, and in a meadow, the head of a sponge, we saw a
+herd of Hartebeests. A drizzly night was followed by a morning of cold
+wet fog, but in three hours we reached our old camp: it took us six
+hours to do this distance before, and five on our return. We camped on a
+deep bridged stream, called the Kiachibw�.
+
+_12th February, 1873._--We crossed the Kasoso, which joins the Mokisya,
+a river we afterwards crossed: it flows N.W., then over the Mofungw�.
+The same sponges everywhere.
+
+_13th February, 1873._--In four hours we came within sight of the Lu�na
+and Lake, and saw plenty of elephants and other game, but very shy. The
+forest trees are larger. The guides are more at a loss than we are, as
+they always go in canoes in the flat rivers and rivulets. Went E., then
+S.E. round to S.
+
+_14th February, 1873._--Public punishment to Chirango for stealing
+beads, fifteen cuts; diminished his load to 40 lbs., giving him blue and
+white beads to be strung. The water stands so high in the paths that I
+cannot walk dryshod, and I found in the large bougas or prairies in
+front, that it lay knee deep, so I sent on two men to go to the first
+villages of Matipa for large canoes to navigate the Lake, or give us a
+guide to go east to the Chambez�, to go round on foot. It was Halima
+who informed on Chirango, as he offered her beads for a cloth of a kind
+which she knew had not hitherto been taken out of the baggage. This was
+so far faithful in her, but she has an outrageous tongue. I remain
+because of an excessive h�morrhagic discharge.
+
+[We cannot but believe Livingstone saw great danger in these constant
+recurrences of his old disorder: we find a trace of it in the solemn
+reflections which he wrote in his pocket-book, immediately under the
+above words:--]
+
+If the good Lord gives me favour, and permits me to finish my work, I
+shall thank and bless Him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain, and
+travel; this trip has made my hair all grey.
+
+_15th February, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Killed our last goat while
+waiting for messengers to return from Matipa's. Evening: the messenger
+came back, having been foiled by deep tinga-tinga and bouga. He fired
+his gun three times, but no answer came, so as he had slept one night
+away he turned, but found some men hunting, whom he brought with him.
+They say that Matipa is on Chirub� islet, a good man too, but far off
+from this.
+
+_16th February, 1873._--Sent men by the hunter's canoe to Chirub�, with
+a request to Matipa to convey us west if he has canoes, but, if not, to
+tell us truly, and we will go east and cross the Chambez� where it is
+small. Chitunkubw�'s men ran away, refusing to wait till we had
+communicated with Matipa. Here the water stands underground about
+eighteen inches from the surface. The guides played us false, and this
+is why they escaped.
+
+_17th February, 1873._--The men will return to-morrow, but they have to
+go all the way out to the islet of Chirub� to Matipa's.
+
+Suffered a furious attack at midnight from the red Sirafu or Driver
+ants. Our cook fled first at their onset. I lighted a candle, and
+remembering Dr. Van der Kemp's idea that no animal will attack man
+unprovoked, I lay still. The first came on my foot quietly, then some
+began to bite between the toes, then the larger ones swarmed over the
+foot and bit furiously, and made the blood start out. I then went out of
+the tent, and my whole person was instantly covered as close as
+small-pox (not confluent) on a patient. Grass fires were lighted, and my
+men picked some off my limbs and tried to save me. After battling for an
+hour or two they took me into a hut not yet invaded, and I rested till
+they came, the pests, and routed me out there too! Then came on a steady
+pour of rain, which held on till noon, as if trying to make us
+miserable. At 9 A.M. I got back into my tent. The large Sirafu have
+mandibles curved like reaping-sickles, and very sharp--as fine at the
+point as the finest needle or a bee's sting. Their office is to remove
+all animal refuse, cockroaches, &c., and they took all my fat. Their
+appearance sets every cockroach in a flurry, and all ants, white and
+black, get into a panic. On man they insert the sharp curved mandibles,
+and then with six legs push their bodies round so as to force the points
+by lever power. They collect in masses in their runs and stand with
+mandibles extended, as if defying attack. The large ones stand thus at
+bay whilst the youngsters hollow out a run half an inch wide, and about
+an inch deep. They remained with us till late in the afternoon, and we
+put hot ashes on the defiant hordes. They retire to enjoy the fruits of
+their raid, and come out fresh another day.
+
+_18th February, 1873._--We wait hungry and cold for the return of the
+men who have gone to Matipa, and hope the good Lord will grant us
+influence with this man.
+
+Our men have returned to-day, having obeyed the native who told them to
+sleep instead of going to Matipa. They bought food, and then believed
+that the islet Chirub� was too far off, and returned with a most lame
+story. We shall make the best of it by going N.W., to be near the islets
+and buy food, till we can communicate with Matipa. If he fails us by
+fair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The men say fear of me
+makes them act very cowardly. I have gone amongst the whole population
+kindly and fairly, but I fear I must now act rigidly, for when they hear
+that we have submitted to injustice, they at once conclude that we are
+fair game for all, and they go to lengths in dealing falsely that they
+would never otherwise attempt. It is, I can declare, not my nature, nor
+has it been my practice, to go as if "my back were up."
+
+_19th February, 1873._--A cold wet morning keeps us in this
+uncomfortable spot. When it clears up we go to an old stockade, to be
+near an islet to buy food. The people, knowing our need, are
+extortionate. We went on at 9 A.M. over an extensive water-covered
+plain. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and then in it we went
+westward, in branches of the Luena, very deep and flowing W. for three
+hours. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and we were then near
+enough to hear Bangweolo bellowing. The water on the plain is four,
+five, and seven feet deep. There are rushes, ferns, papyrus, and two
+lotuses, in abundance. Many dark grey caterpillars clung to the grass
+and were knocked off as we paddled or poled. Camped in an old village of
+Matipa's, where, in the west, we see the Luena enter Lake Bangweolo; but
+all is flat prairie or buga, filled with fast-flowing water, save a few
+islets covered with palms and trees. Rain continued sprinkling us from
+the N.W. all the morning. Elephants had run riot over the ruins, eating
+a species of grass now in seed. It resembles millet, and the donkey is
+fond of it. I have only seen this and one other species of grass in seed
+eaten by the African elephant. Trees, bulbs, and fruits are his
+dainties, although ants, whose hills he overturns, are relished. A large
+party in canoes came with food as soon as we reached our new quarters:
+they had heard that we were in search of Matipa. All are eager for
+calico, though they have only raw cassava to offer. They are clothed in
+bark-cloth and skins. Without canoes no movement can be made in any
+direction, for it is water everywhere, water above and water below.
+
+_20th February, 1873._--I sent a request to a friendly man to give me
+men, and a large canoe to go myself to Matipa; he says that he will let
+me know to-day if he can. Heavy rain by night and drizzling by day. No
+definite answer yet, but we are getting food, and Matipa will soon hear
+of us as he did when we came and returned back for food. I engaged
+another man to send a canoe to Matipa, and I showed him his payment, but
+retain it here till he comes back.
+
+_21st February, 1873._--The men engaged refuse to go to Matipa's, they
+have no honour. It is so wet we can do nothing. Another man spoken to
+about going, says that they run the risk of being killed by some hostile
+people on another island between this and Matipa's.
+
+_22nd February, 1873._--A wet morning. I was ill all yesterday, but
+escape fever by h�morrhage. A heavy mantle of N.W. clouds came floating
+over us daily. No astronomical observation can possibly be taken. I was
+never in such misty cloudy weather in Africa. A man turned up at 9 A.M.
+to carry our message to Matipa; Susi and Chumah went with him. The good
+Lord go with them, and lend me influence and grant me help.
+
+_23rd February, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Rainy.
+
+_24th February, 1873._--Tried hard for a lunar, but the moon was lost in
+the glare of the sun.
+
+_25th February, 1873._--For a wonder it did not rain till 4 P.M. The
+people bring food, but hold out for cloth, which is inconvenient.
+
+Susi and Chumah not appearing may mean that the men are preparing canoes
+and food to transport us.
+
+_25th February, 1873._--Susi returned this morning with good news from
+Matipa, who declares his willingness to carry us to Kabend� for the five
+bundles of brass wire I offered. It is not on Chirub�, but amid the
+swamps of the mainland on the Lake's north side. Immense swampy plains
+all around except at Kabend�. Matipa is at variance with his brothers on
+the subject of the lordship of the lands and the produce of the
+elephants, which are very numerous. I am devoutly thankful to the Giver
+of all for favouring me so far, and hope that He may continue His kind
+aid.
+
+No mosquitoes here, though Speke, at the Victoria Nyanza, said they
+covered the bushes and grass in myriads, and struck against the hands
+and face most disagreeably.
+
+_27th February, 1873._--Waiting for other canoes to be sent by Matipa.
+His men say that there is but one large river on the south of Lake
+Bangweolo, and called Luomba. They know the mountains on the south-east
+as I do, and on the west, but say they don't know any on the middle of
+the watershed. They plead their youth as an excuse for knowing so
+little.
+
+Matipa's men proposed to take half our men, but I refused to divide our
+force; they say that Matipa is truthful.
+
+_28th February, 1873._--No night rain after 8 P.M., for a wonder. Baker
+had 1500 men in health on 15th June, 1870, at lat. 9� 26' N., and 160 on
+sick list; many dead. Liberated 305 slaves. His fleet was thirty-two
+vessels; wife and he well. I wish that I met him. Matipa's men not
+having come, it is said they are employed bringing the carcase of an
+elephant to him. I propose to go near to him to-morrow, some in canoes
+and some on foot. The good Lord help me. New moon this evening.
+
+_1st March, 1873._--Embarked women and goods in canoes, and went three
+hours S.E. to Bangweolo. Stopped on an island where people were drying
+fish over fires. Heavy rain wetted us all as we came near the islet, the
+drops were as large as half-crowns by the marks they made. We went over
+flooded prairie four feet deep, and covered with rushes, and two
+varieties of lotus or sacred lily; both are eaten, and so are papyrus.
+The buffaloes are at a loss in the water. Three canoes are behind. The
+men are great cowards. I took possession of all the paddles and punting
+poles, as the men showed an inclination to move off from our islet. The
+water in the country is prodigiously large: plains extending further
+than the eye can reach have four or five feet of clear water, and the
+Lake and adjacent lands for twenty or thirty miles are level. We are on
+a miserable dirty fishy island called Motovinza; all are damp. We are
+surrounded by scores of miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotus
+plants, but no mosquitoes.
+
+_2nd March, 1873._--It took us 7-1/2 hours' punting to bring us to an
+island, and then the miserable weather rained constantly on our landing
+into the Boma (stockade), which is well peopled. The prairie is ten
+hours long, or about thirty miles by punting. Matipa is on an island
+too, with four bomas on it. A river, the Molonga, runs past it, and is a
+protection.[28]
+
+The men wear a curious head-dress of skin or hair, and large upright
+ears.
+
+_3rd March, 1873._--Matipa paid off the men who brought us here. He says
+that five Sangos or coils (which brought us here) will do to take us to
+Kabend�, and I sincerely hope that they will. His canoes are off,
+bringing the meat of an elephant. There are many dogs in the village,
+which they use in hunting to bring elephants to bay. I visited Matipa at
+noon. He is an old man, slow of tongue, and self-possessed; he
+recommended our crossing to the south bank of the Lake to his brother,
+who has plenty of cattle, and to goalong that side where there are few
+rivers and plenty to eat. Kabend�'s land was lately overrun by
+Banyamwezi, who now inhabit that country, but as yet have no food to
+sell. Moanzabamba was the founder of the Babisa tribe, and used the
+curious plaits of hair which form such a singular head-dress here like
+large ears. I am rather in a difficulty, as I fear I must give the five
+coils for a much shorter task; but it is best not to appear unfair,
+although I will be the loser. He sent a man to catch a Sampa for me, it
+is the largest fish in the Lake, and he promised to have men ready to
+take my men over to-morrow. Matipa never heard from any of the elders of
+his people that any of his forefathers ever saw a European. He knew
+perfectly about Pereira, Lacerda, and Monteiro, going to Casembe, and my
+coming to the islet Mpabala. No trace seems to exist of Captain
+Singleton's march.[29] The native name of Pereira is "Moenda Mondo:" of
+Lacerda, "Charlie:" of Monteiro's party, "Makabalw�," or the donkey men,
+but no other name is heard. The following is a small snatch of Babisa
+lore. It was told by an old man who came to try for some beads, and
+seemed much interested about printing. He was asked if there were any
+marks made on the rocks in any part of the country, and this led to his
+story. Lukerenga came from the west a long time ago to the River
+Lualaba. He had with him a little dog. When he wanted to pass over he
+threw his mat on the water, and this served as a raft, and they crossed
+the stream. When he reached the other side there were rocks at the
+landing place, and the mark is still to be seen on the stone, not only
+of his foot, but of a stick which he cut with his hatchet, and of his
+dog's feet; the name of the place is Uch�wa.
+
+_4th March, 1873._--Sent canoes off to bring our men over tothe island
+of Matipa. They brought ten, but the donkey could not come as far
+through the "tinga-tinga" as they, so they took it back for fear that it
+should perish. I spoke to Matipa this morning to send more canoes, and
+he consented. We move outside, as the town swarms with mice, and is very
+closely built and disagreeable. I found mosquitoes in the town.
+
+_5th March, 1873._--Time runs on quickly. The real name of this island
+is Masumbo, and the position may be probably long. 31� 3'; lat. 10� 11'
+S. Men not arrived yet. Matipa very slow.
+
+_6th March, 1873._--Building a camp outside the town for quiet and
+cleanliness, and no mice to run over us at night. This islet is some
+twenty or thirty feet above the general flat country and adjacent water.
+
+At 3 P.M. we moved up to the highest part of the island where we can see
+around us and have the fresh breeze from the Lake. Rainy as we went up,
+as usual.
+
+_7th March, 1873._--We expect our men to-day. I tremble for the donkey!
+Camp sweet and clean, but it, too, has mosquitoes, from which a curtain
+protects me completely--a great luxury, but unknown to the Arabs, to
+whom I have spoken about it. Abed was overjoyed by one I made for him;
+others are used to their bites, as was the man who said that he would
+get used to a nail through the heel of his shoe. The men came at 3 P.M.,
+but eight had to remain, the canoes being too small. The donkey had to
+be tied down, as he rolled about on his legs and would have forced his
+way out. He bit Mabruki Speke's lame hand, and came in stiff from lying
+tied all day. We had him shampooed all over, but he could not eat
+dura--he feels sore. Susi did well under the circumstances, and we had
+plenty of flour ready for all. Chanza is near Kabinga, and this last
+chief is coming to visit me in a day or two.
+
+_8th March, 1873._--I press Matipa to get a fleet of canoes equal to
+our number, but he complains of their being stolen by rebel subjects. He
+tells me his brother Kabinga would have been here some days ago but for
+having lost a son, who was killed by an elephant: he is mourning for him
+but will come soon. Kabinga is on the other side of the Chambez�. A
+party of male and female drummers and dancers is sure to turn up at
+every village; the first here had a leader that used such violent antics
+perspiration ran off his whole frame. I gave a few strings of beads, and
+the performance is repeated to-day by another lot, but I rebel and allow
+them to dance unheeded. We got a sheep for a wonder for a doti; fowls
+and fish alone could be bought, but Kabinga has plenty of cattle.
+
+[Illustration: Dr. Livingstone's Mosquito Curtain.]
+
+There is a species of carp with red ventral fin, which is caught and
+used in very large quantities: it is called "pumbo." The people dry it
+over fires as preserved provisions. Sampa is the largest fish in the
+Lake, it is caught by a hook. The Lu�na goes into Bangweolo at
+Molandangao. A male Msob� had faint white stripes across the back and
+one well-marked yellow stripe along the spine. The hip had a few faint
+white spots, which showed by having longer hair than the rest; a kid of
+the same species had a white belly.
+
+The eight men came from Motovinza this afternoon, and now all our party
+is united. The donkey shows many sores inflicted by the careless people,
+who think that force alone can be used to inferior animals.
+
+_11th March, 1873._--Matipa says "Wait; Kabinga is coming, and he has
+canoes." Time is of no value to him. His wife is making him pombe, and
+will drown all his cares, but mine increase and plague me. Matipa and
+his wife each sent me a huge calabash of pombe; I wanted only a little
+to make bread with.
+
+By putting leaven in a bottle and keeping it from one baking to another
+(or three days) good bread is made, and the dough being surrounded by
+banana leaves or maize leaves (or even forest leaves of hard texture and
+no taste, or simply by broad leafy grass), is preserved from burning in
+an iron pot. The inside of the pot is greased, then the leaves put in
+all round, and the dough poured in to stand and rise in the sun.
+
+Better news comes: the son of Kabinga is to be here to-night, and we
+shall concoct plans together.
+
+_12th March, 1873._--The news was false, no one came from Kabinga. The
+men strung beads to-day, and I wrote part of my despatch for Earl
+Granville.
+
+_13th March, 1873._--- I went to Matipa, and proposed to begin the
+embarkation of my men at once, as they are many, and the canoes are only
+sufficient to take a few at a time. He has sent off a big canoe to reap
+his millet, when it returns he will send us over to see for ourselves
+where we can go. I explained the danger of setting my men astray.
+
+_14th March, 1873._--Rains have ceased for a few days. Went down to
+Matipa and tried to take his likeness for the sake of the curious hat he
+wears.
+
+_15th March, 1873._--Finish my despatch so far.
+
+_16th March, 1873, Sunday._--Service. I spoke sharply to Matipa for his
+duplicity. He promises everything and does nothing: he has in fact no
+power over his people. Matipa says that a large canoe will come
+to-morrow, and next day men will go to Kabinga to reconnoitre. There may
+be a hitch there which we did not take into account; Kabinga's son,
+killed by an elephant, may have raised complications: blame may be
+attached to Matipa, and in their dark minds it may appear all important
+to settle the affair before having communication with him. Ill all day
+with my old complaint.
+
+[Illustration: Matipa and his Wife.]
+
+_17th March, 1873._--The delay is most trying. So many detentions have
+occurred they ought to have made me of a patient spirit.
+
+As I thought, Matipa told us to-day that it is reported he has some
+Arabs with him who will attack all the Lake people forthwith, and he is
+anxious that we shall go over to show them that we are peaceful.
+
+_18th March, 1873._--Sent off men to reconnoitre at Kabinga's and to
+make a camp there. Rain began again after nine days' dry weather, N.W.
+wind, but in the morning fleecy clouds came from S.E. in patches. Matipa
+is acting the villain, and my men are afraid of him: they are all
+cowards, and say that they are afraid of me, but this is only an excuse
+for their cowardice.
+
+_19th March, 1873._--Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for sparing
+me thus far on the journey of life. Can I hope for ultimate success? So
+many obstacles have arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, Oh! my good
+Lord Jesus.[30]
+
+8 A.M. Got about twenty people off to canoes. Matipa not friendly. They
+go over to Kabinga on S.W. side of the Chambez�, and thence we go
+overland. 9 A.M. Men came back and reported Matipa false again; only one
+canoe had come. I made a demonstration by taking quiet possession of his
+village and house; fired a pistol through the roof and called my men,
+ten being left to guard the camp; Matipa fled to another village. The
+people sent off at once and brought three canoes, so at 11 A.M. my men
+embarked quietly. They go across the Chambez� and build a camp on its
+left bank. All Kabinga's cattle are kept on an island called Kalilo,
+near the mouth of the Chambez�, and are perfectly wild: they are driven
+into the water like buffaloes, and pursued when one is wanted for meat.
+No milk is ever obtained of course.
+
+_20th March, 1873._--Cold N.W. weather, but the rainfall is small, as
+the S.E. stratum comes down below the N.W. by day. Matipa sent two large
+baskets of flour (cassava), a sheep, and a cock. He hoped that we should
+remain with him till the water of the over-flood dried, and help him to
+fight his enemies, but I explained our delays, and our desire to
+complete our work and meet Baker.
+
+_21st March, 1873._--Very heavy N.W. rain and thunder by night, and by
+morning. I gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire, and his wife a string
+of large neck beads, and explained my hurry to be off. He is now all
+fair, and promises largely: he has been much frightened by our warlike
+demonstration. I am glad I had to do nothing but make a show of force.
+
+_22nd March, 1873._--Susi not returned from Kabinga. I hope that he is
+getting canoes, and men also, to transport us all at one voyage. It is
+flood as far as the eye can reach; flood four and six feet deep, and
+more, with three species of rushes, two kinds of lotus, or sacred lily,
+papyrus, arum, &c. One does not know where land ends, and Lake begins:
+the presence of land-grass proves that this is not always overflowed.
+
+_23rd March, 1873._--Men returned at noon. Kabinga is mourning for his
+son killed by an elephant, and keeps in seclusion. The camp is formed on
+the left bank of the Chambez�.
+
+_24th March._--The people took the canoes away, but in fear sent for
+them. I got four, and started with all our goods, first giving a present
+that no blame should follow me. We punted six hours to a little islet
+without a tree, and no sooner did we land than a pitiless pelting rain
+came on. We turned up a canoe to get shelter. We shall reach the
+Chambez� to-morrow. The wind tore the tent out of our hands, and damaged
+it too; the loads are all soaked, and with the cold it is bitterly
+uncomfortable. A man put my bed into the bilge, and never said "Bale
+out," so I was for a wet night, but it turned out better than I
+expected. No grass, but we made a bed of the loads, and a blanket
+fortunately put into a bag.
+
+_25th March, 1873._--Nothing earthly will make me give up my work in
+despair. I encourage myself in the Lord my God, and go forward.
+
+We got off from our miserably small islet of ten yards at 7 A.M., a
+grassy sea on all sides, with a few islets in the far distance. Four
+varieties of rushes around us, triangular and fluted, rise from eighteen
+inches to two feet above the water. The caterpillars seem to eat each
+other, and a web is made round others; the numerous spiders may have
+been the workmen of the nest. The wind on the rushes makes a sound like
+the waves of the sea. The flood extends out in slightly depressed arms
+of the Lake for twenty or thirty miles, and far too broad to be seen
+across; fish abound, and ant-hills alone lift up their heads; they have
+trees on them. Lukutu flows from E. to W. to the Chambez�, as does the
+Lubanseusi also. After another six hours' punting, over the same
+wearisome prairie or Bouga, we heard the merry voices of children. It
+was a large village, on a flat, which seems flooded at times, but much
+cassava is planted on mounds, made to protect the plants from the water,
+which stood in places in the village, but we got a dry spot for the
+tent. The people offered us huts. We had as usual a smart shower on the
+way to Kasenga, where we slept. We passed the Islet Luangwa.
+
+_26th March, 1873._--We started at 7.30, and got into a large stream out
+of the Chambez�, called Mabziwa. One canoe sank in it, and we lost a
+slave girl of Amoda. Fished up three boxes, and two guns, but the boxes
+being full of cartridges were much injured; we lost the donkey's saddle
+too. After this mishap we crossed the Lubanseusi, near its confluence
+with the Chambez�, 300 yards wide and three fathoms deep, and a slow
+current. We crossed the Chambez�. It is about 400 yards wide, with a
+quick clear current of two knots, and three fathoms deep, like the
+Lubanseus�; but that was slow in current, but clear also. There is one
+great lock after another, with thick mats of hedges, formed of aquatic
+plants between. The volume of water is enormous. We punted five hours,
+and then camped.
+
+_27th March, 1873._--I sent canoes and men back to Matipa's to bring all
+the men that remained, telling them to ship them at once on arriving,
+and not to make any talk about it. Kabinga keeps his distance from us,
+and food is scarce; at noon he sent a man to salute me in his name.
+
+_28th March, 1873._--Making a pad for a donkey, to serve instead of a
+saddle. Kabinga attempts to sell a sheep at an exorbitant price, and
+says that he is weeping over his dead child. Mabruki Speke's hut caught
+fire at night, and his cartridge box was burned.
+
+_29th March, 1873._--I bought a sheep for 100 strings of beads. I wished
+to begin the exchange by being generous, and told his messenger so; then
+a small quantity of maize was brought, and I grumbled at the meanness of
+the present: there is no use in being bashful, as they are not ashamed
+to grumble too. The man said that Kabinga would send more when he had
+collected it.
+
+_30th March, 1873, Sunday._--A lion roars mightily. The fish-hawk utters
+his weird voice in the morning, as if he lifted up to a friend at a
+great distance, in a sort of falsetto key.
+
+5 P.M. Men returned, but the large canoe having been broken by the
+donkey, we have to go back and pay for it, and take away about twenty
+men now left. Matipa kept all the payment from his own people, and so
+left us in the lurch; thus another five days is lost.
+
+_31st March, 1873._--I sent the men back to Matipa's for all our party.
+I give two dotis to repair the canoe. Islanders are always troublesome,
+from a sense of security in their fastnesses. Made stirrups of thick
+brass wire four-fold; they promise to do well. Sent Kabinga a cloth, and
+a message, but he is evidently a niggard, like Matipa: we must take him
+as we find him, there is no use in growling. Seven of our men returned,
+having got a canoe from one of Matipa's men. Kabinga, it seems, was
+pleased with the cloth, and says that he will ask for maize from his
+people, and buy it for me; he has rice growing. He will send a canoe to
+carry me over the next river.
+
+_3rd April, 1873._--Very heavy rain last night. Six inches fell in a
+short time. The men at last have come from Matipa's.
+
+_4th April, 1873._--Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, and got a fat one
+for 2-1/2 dotis, to give the party a feast ere we start. The kambari
+fish of the Chambez� is three feet three inches in length.
+
+Two others, the "polw�" and "lopatakwao," all go up the Chambez� to
+spawn when the rains begin. Casembe's people make caviare of the spawn
+of the "pumbo."
+
+[The next entry is made in a new pocket-book, numbered XVII. For the
+first few days pen and ink were used, afterwards a well-worn stump of
+pencil, stuck into a steel penholder and attached to a piece of bamboo,
+served his purpose.]
+
+_5th April, 1873._--March from Kabinga's on the Chambez�, our luggage in
+canoes, and men on land. We punted on flood six feet deep, with many
+ant-hills all about, covered with trees. Course S.S.E. for five miles,
+across the River Lobingela, sluggish, and about 300 yards wide.
+
+_6th April, 1873._--Leave in the same way, but men were sent from
+Kabinga to steal the canoes, which we paid his brother Mateysa
+handsomely for. A stupid drummer, beating the alarm in the distance,
+called us inland; we found the main body of our people had gone on, and
+so by this, our party got separated,[31] and we pulled and punted six or
+seven hours S.W. in great difficulty, as the fishermen we saw refused to
+show us where the deep water lay. The whole country S. of the Lake was
+covered with water, thickly dotted over with lotus-leaves and rushes. It
+has a greenish appearance, and it might be well on a map to show the
+spaces annually flooded by a broad wavy band, twenty, thirty, and even,
+forty miles out from the permanent banks of the Lake: it might be
+coloured light green. The broad estuaries fifty or more miles, into
+which the rivers form themselves, might be coloured blue, but it is
+quite impossible at present to tell where land ends, and Lake begins; it
+is all water, water everywhere, which seems to be kept from flowing
+quickly off by the narrow bed of the Luapula, which has perpendicular
+banks, worn deep down in new red sandstone. It is the Nile apparently
+enacting its inundations, even at its sources. The amount of water
+spread out over the country constantly excites my wonder; it is
+prodigious. Many of the ant-hills are cultivated and covered with dura,
+pumpkins, beans, maize, but the waters yield food plenteously in fish
+and lotus-roots. A species of wild rice grows, but the people neither
+need it nor know it. A party of fishermen fled from us, but by coaxing
+we got them to show us deep water. They then showed us an islet, about
+thirty yards square, without wood, and desired us to sleep there. We
+went on, and then they decamped.
+
+Pitiless pelting showers wetted everything; but near sunset we saw two
+fishermen paddling quickly off from an ant-hill, where we found a hut,
+plenty of fish, and some firewood. There we spent the night, and watched
+by turns, lest thieves should come and haul away our canoes and
+goods. Heavy rain. One canoe sank, wetting everything in her. The leaks
+in her had been stopped with clay, and a man sleeping near the stern had
+displaced this frail caulking. We did not touch the fish, and I cannot
+conjecture who has inspired fear in all the inhabitants.
+
+_7th April, 1873._--Went on S.W., and saw two men, who guided us to the
+River Muanakazi, which forms a connecting link between the River
+Lotingila and the Lolotikila, about the southern borders of the flood.
+Men were hunting, and we passed near large herds of antelopes, which
+made a rushing, plunging sound as they ran and sprang away among the
+waters. A lion had wandered into this world of water and ant-hills, and
+roared night and morning, as if very much disgusted: we could sympathise
+with him! Near to the Muanakazi, at a broad bank in shallow water near
+the river, we had to unload and haul. Our guides left us, well pleased
+with the payment we had given them. The natives beating a drum on our
+east made us believe them to be our party, and some thought that they
+heard two shots. This misled us, and we went towards the sound through
+papyrus, tall rushes, arums, and grass, till tired out, and took refuge
+on an ant-hill for the night. Lion roaring. We were lost in stiff grassy
+prairies, from three to four feet deep in water, for five hours. We
+fired a gun in the stillness of the night, but received no answer; so on
+the _8th_ we sent a small canoe at daybreak to ask for information and
+guides from the village where the drums had been beaten. Two men came,
+and they thought likewise that our party was south-east; but in that
+direction the water was about fifteen inches in spots and three feet in
+others, which caused constant dragging of the large canoe all day, and
+at last we unloaded at another branch of the Muanakazi with a village of
+friendly people. We slept there.
+
+All hands at the large canoe could move her only a few feet. Putting
+all their strength to her, she stopped at every haul with a jerk, as if
+in a bank of adhesive plaister. I measured the crown of a papyrus plant
+or palm, it was three feet across horizontally, its stalk eight feet in
+height. Hundreds of a large dark-grey hairy caterpillar have nearly
+cleared off the rushes in spots, and now live on each other. They can
+make only the smallest progress by swimming or rather wriggling in the
+water: their motion is that of a watch-spring thrown down, dilating and
+contracting.
+
+_9th April, 1873._--After two hours' threading the very winding, deep
+channel of this southern branch of the Muanakazi, we came to where our
+land party had crossed it and gone on to Gandochit�, a chief on the
+Lolotikila. My men were all done up, so I hired a man to call some of
+his friends to take the loads; but he was stopped by his relations in
+the way, saying, "You ought to have one of the traveller's own people
+with you." He returned, but did not tell us plainly or truly till this
+morning.
+
+[The recent heavy exertions, coupled with constant exposure and extreme
+anxiety and annoyance, no doubt brought on the severe attack which is
+noticed, as we see in the words of the next few days.]
+
+_10th April, 1873._--The headman of the village explained, and we sent
+two of our men, who had a night's rest with the turnagain fellow of
+yesterday. I am pale, bloodless, and; weak from bleeding profusely ever
+since the 31st of March last: an artery gives off a copious stream, and
+takes away my strength. Oh, how I long to be permitted by the Over Power
+to finish my work.
+
+_12th April, 1873._--Cross the Muanakazi. It is about 100 or 130 yards
+broad, and deep. Great loss of _a��a_ made me so weak I could hardly
+walk, but tottered along nearly two hours, and then lay down quite
+done. Cooked coffee--our last--and went on, but in an hour I was
+compelled to lie down. Very unwilling to be carried, but on being
+pressed I allowed the men to help me along by relays to Chinama, where
+there is much cultivation. We camped in a garden of dura.
+
+_13th April, 1873._--Found that we had slept on the right bank of the
+Lolotikila, a sluggish, marshy-looking river, very winding, but here
+going about south-west. The country is all so very flat that the rivers
+down here are of necessity tortuous. Fish and other food abundant, and
+the people civil and reasonable. They usually partake largely of the
+character of the chief, and this one, Gondochit�, is polite. The sky is
+clearing, and the S.E. wind is the lower stratum now. It is the dry
+season well begun. Seventy-three inches is a higher rainfall than has
+been observed anywhere else, even in northern Manyuema; it was lower by
+inches than here far south on the watershed. In fact, this is the very
+heaviest rainfall known in these latitudes; between fifty and sixty is
+the maximum.
+
+One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees, occupying
+quarters of miles in breadth, and these give way to bouga or prairie
+again. The bouga is flooded annually, but its vegetation consists of dry
+land grasses. Other bouga extend out from the Lake up to forty miles,
+and are known by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums,
+rushes of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic subaqueous
+plants which send up their flowers only to fructify in the sun, and then
+sink to ripen one bunch after another. Others, with great
+cabbage-looking leaves, seem to remain always at the bottom. The young
+of fish swarm, and bob in and out from the leaves. A species of soft
+moss grows on most plants, and seems to be good fodder for fishes,
+fitted by hooked or turned-up noses to guide it into their maws.
+
+One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a hook, which
+enables the animal to hold its mouth close to the plant, as it glides up
+or down, sucking in all the soft pulpy food. The superabundance of
+gelatinous nutriment makes these swarmers increase in bulk with
+extraordinary rapidity, and the food supply of the people is plenteous
+in consequence. The number of fish caught by weirs, baskets, and nets
+now, as the waters decline, is prodigious. The fish feel their element
+becoming insufficient for comfort, and retire from one bouga to another
+towards the Lake; the narrower parts are duly prepared by weirs to take
+advantage of their necessities; the sun heat seems to oppress them and
+force them to flee. With the south-east aerial current comes heat and
+sultriness. A blanket is scarcely needed till the early hours of the
+morning, and here, after the turtle doves and cocks give out their
+warning calls to the watchful, the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkable
+voice. It is pitched in a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as if
+he were calling to some one in the other world. Once heard, his weird
+unearthly voice can never be forgotten--it sticks to one through life.
+
+We were four hours in being ferried over the Loitikila, or Lolotikila,
+in four small canoes, and then two hours south-west down its left bank
+to another river, where our camp has been formed. I sent over a present
+to the headman, and a man returned with the information that he was ill
+at another village, but his wife would send canoes to-morrow to transport
+us over and set us on our way to Muanazambamba, south-west, and over
+Lolotikila again.
+
+_14th April, 1873._--At a branch of the Lolotikila.
+
+_15th April, 1873._--Cross Lolotikila again (where it is only fifty
+yards) by canoes, and went south-west an hour. I, being very weak, had
+to be carried part of the way. Am glad of resting; _a��a_ flow
+copiously last night. A woman, the wife of the chief, gave a present of
+a goat and maize.
+
+_16th April, 1873._--Went south-west two and a half hours, and crossed
+the Lombatwa River of 100 yards in width, rush deep, and flowing fast in
+aquatic vegetation, papyrus, &c., into the Loitikila. In all about three
+hours south-west.
+
+_17th April, 1873._--A tremendous rain after dark burst all our now
+rotten tents to shreds. Went on at 6.35 A.M. for three hours, and I, who
+was suffering severely all night, had to rest. We got water near the
+surface by digging in yellow sand. Three hills now appear in the
+distance. Our course, S.W. three and three-quarter hours to a village on
+the Kazya River. A Nyassa man declared that his father had brought the
+heavy rain of the 16th on us. We crossed three sponges.
+
+_18th April, 1873._--On leaving the village on the Kazya, we forded it
+and found it seventy yards broad, waist to breast deep all over. A large
+weir spanned it, and we went on the lower side of that. Much papyrus and
+other aquatic plants in it. Fish are returning now with the falling
+waters, and are guided into the rush-cones set for them. Crossed two
+large sponges, and I was forced to stop at a village after travelling
+S.W. for two hours: very ill all night, but remembered that the bleeding
+and most other ailments in this land are forms of fever. Took two
+scruple doses of quinine, and stopped it quite.
+
+_19th April, 1873._--A fine bracing S.E. breeze kept me on the donkey
+across a broad sponge and over flats of white sandy soil and much
+cultivation for an hour and a half, when we stopped at a large village
+on the right bank of,[32] and men went over to the chief Muanzambamba to
+ask canoes to cross to-morrow. I am excessively weak, and but for the
+donkey could not move a hundred yards. It is not all pleasure this
+exploration. The Lavusi hills are a relief tothe eye in this flat
+upland. Their forms show an igneous origin. The river Kazya comes from
+them and goes direct into the Lake. No observations now, owing to great
+weakness; I can scarcely hold the pencil, and my stick is a burden. Tent
+gone; the men build a good hut for me and the luggage. S.W. one and a
+half hour.
+
+_20th April, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Cross over the sponge, Moenda, for
+food and to be near the headman of these parts, Moanzambamba. I am
+excessively weak. Village on Moenda sponge, 7 A.M. Cross Lokulu in a
+canoe. The river is about thirty yards broad, very deep, and flowing in
+marshes two knots from S.S.B. to N.N.W. into Lake.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[28] It will be observed that these islets were in reality slight
+eminences standing above water on the flooded plains which border on
+Lake Bangweolo. The men say that the actual deep-water Lake lay away
+to their right, and on being asked why Dr. Livingstone did not make a
+short cut across to the southern shore, they explain that the canoes
+could not live for an hour on the Lake, but were merely suited for
+punting about over the flooded land.--Ed.
+
+[29] Defoe's book, 'Adventures of Captain Singleton,' is alluded to.
+It would almost appear as if Defoe must have come across some unknown
+African traveller who gave him materials for this work.--Ed.
+
+[30] This was written on his last birthday.--ED.
+
+[31] Dr. Livingstone's object was to keep the land party marching
+parallel to him whilst he kept nearer to the Lake in a canoe.--ED.
+
+[32] He leaves room for a name which perhaps in his exhausted state he
+forgot to ascertain.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chumah's additional details. Great agony in his last
+    illness. Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for
+    the Hill of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses
+    the Mohlamo into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at
+    Chitambo's village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller.
+    The last night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The
+    account of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of
+    the men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is
+    dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the
+    men wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation
+    of the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot.
+
+
+[We have now arrived at the last words written in Dr. Livingstone's
+diary: a copy of the two pages in his pocket-book which contains them is,
+by the help of photography, set before the reader. It is evident that he
+was unable to do more than make the shortest memoranda, and to mark on
+the map which he was making the streams which enter the Lake as he
+crossed them. From the _22nd_ to the _27th_ April he had not strength to
+write down anything but the several dates. Fortunately Susi and Chumah
+give a very clear and circumstantial account of every incident which
+occurred on these days, and we shall therefore add what they say, after
+each of the Doctor's entries. He writes:--]
+
+_21st April, 1873._--Tried to ride, but was forced to lie down, and they
+carried me back to vil. exhausted.
+
+[The men explain this entry thus:--This morning the Doctor tried if he
+were strong enough to ride on the donkey, but he had only gone a short
+distance when he fell to the ground utterly exhausted and faint. Susi
+immediately undid his belt and pistol, and picked up his cap which had
+dropped off, while Chumah threw down his gun and ran to stop the men on
+ahead. When he got back the Doctor said, "Chumah, I have lost so much
+blood, there is no more strength left in my legs: you must carry me." He
+was then assisted gently to his shoulders, and, holding the man's head
+to steady himself, was borne back to the village and placed in the hut
+he had so recently left. It was necessary to let the Chief Muanazawamba
+know what had happened, and for this purpose Dr. Livingstone despatched
+a messenger. He was directed to ask him to supply a guide for the next
+day, as he trusted then to have recovered so far as to be able to march:
+the answer was, "Stay as long as you wish, and when you want guides to
+Kalunganjovu's you shall have them."]
+
+_22nd April, 1873._--Carried on kitanda over Buga S.W. 2-1/4.[33]
+
+[His servants say that instead of rallying, they saw that his strength
+was becoming less and less, and in order to carry him they made a
+kitanda of wood, consisting of two side pieces of seven feet in length,
+crossed with rails three feet long, and about four inches apart, the
+whole lashed strongly together. This framework was covered with grass,
+and a blanket laid on it. Slung from a pole, and borne between two
+strong men, it made a tolerable palanquin, and on this the exhausted
+traveller was conveyed to the next village through a flooded grass
+plain. To render the kitanda more comfortable another blanket was
+suspended across the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and allow
+the air to pass under whilst the sun's rays were fended off fromthe
+sick man. The start was deferred this morning until the dew was off the
+heads of the long grass sufficiently to ensure his being kept tolerably
+dry.
+
+The excruciating pains of his dysenteric malady caused him the greatest
+exhaustion as they marched, and they were glad enough to reach another
+village in 2-1/4 hours, having travelled S.W. from the last point. Here
+another hut was built. The name of the halting-place is not remembered
+by the men, for the villagers fled at their approach; indeed the noise
+made by the drums sounding the alarm had been caught by the Doctor some
+time before, and he exclaimed with thankfulness on hearing it, "Ah, now
+we are near!" Throughout this day the following men acted as bearers of
+the kitanda: Chowp�r�, Songolo, Chumah, and Adiamberi. Sowf�r�, too,
+joined in at one time.]
+
+_23rd April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[They advanced another hour and a half through the same expanse of
+flooded treeless waste, passing numbers of small fish-weirs set in such
+a manner as to catch the fish on their way back to the Lake, but seeing
+nothing of the owners, who had either hidden themselves or taken to
+flight on the approach of the caravan. Another village afforded them a
+night's shelter, but it seems not to be known by any particular name.]
+
+_24th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[But one hour's march was accomplished to-day, and again they halted
+amongst some huts--place unknown. His great prostration made progress
+exceedingly painful, and frequently when it was necessary to stop the
+bearers of the kitanda, Chumah had to support the Doctor from falling.]
+
+_25th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[In an hour's course S.W. they arrived at a village in which they found
+a few people. Whilst his servants were busy completing the hut for the
+night's encampment, the Doctor, who was lying in a shady place on the
+kitanda, ordered them to fetch one of the villagers. The chief of the
+place had disappeared, but the rest of his people seemed quite at their
+ease, and drew near to hear what was going to be said. They were asked
+whether they knew of a hill on which four rivers took their rise. The
+spokesman answered that they had no knowledge of it; they themselves,
+said he, were not travellers, and all those who used to go on trading
+expeditions were now dead. In former years Malenga's town, Kutchinyama,
+was the assembling place of the Wabisa traders, but these had been swept
+off by the Mazitu. Such as survived had to exist as best they could
+amongst the swamps and inundated districts around the Lake. Whenever an
+expedition was organised to go to the coast, or in any other direction,
+travellers met at Malenga's town to talk over the route to be taken:
+then would have been the time, said they, to get information about every
+part. Dr. Livingstone was here obliged to dismiss them, and explained
+that he was too ill to continue talking, but he begged them to bring as
+much food as they could for sale to Kalunganjovu's.]
+
+_26th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[They proceeded as far as Kalunganjovu's town, the chief himself coming
+to meet them on the way dressed in Arab costume and wearing a red fez.
+Whilst waiting here Susi was instructed to count over the bags of beads,
+and, on reporting that twelve still remained in stock, Dr. Livingstone
+told him to buy two large tusks if an opportunity occurred, as he might
+run short of goods by the time they got to Ujiji, and could then
+exchange them with the Arabs there for cloth, to spend on their way to
+Zanzibar.]
+
+To-day, the _27th April, 1873,_ he seems to have been almost dying. No
+entry at all was made in his diary after that which follows, and it must
+have taxed him to the utmost to write:--
+
+"Knocked up quite, and remain--recover--sent to buy milch goats. We are
+on the banks of the Molilamo."
+
+They are the last words that David Livingstone wrote.
+
+From this point we have to trust entirely to the narrative of the men.
+They explain the above sentence as follows: Saliman�, Amisi, Hamsani,
+and Laed�, accompanied by a guide, were sent off to endeavour if
+possible to buy some milch goats on the upper part of the Molilamo.[34]
+They could not, however, succeed; it was always the same story--the
+Mazitu had taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, sent a substantial
+present of a kid and three baskets of ground-nuts, and the people were
+willing enough to exchange food for beads. Thinking he could eat some
+Mapira corn pounded up with ground-nuts, the Doctor gave instructions to
+the two women M'sozi and M'toweka, to prepare it for him, but he was not
+able to take it when they brought it to him.
+
+_28th April, 1873._--Men were now despatched in an opposite direction,
+that is to visit the villages on the right bank of the Molilamo as it
+flows to the Lake; unfortunately they met with no better result, and
+returned empty handed.
+
+On the _29th April_, Kalunganjovu and most of his people came early to
+the village. The chief wished to assist his guest to the utmost, and
+stated that as he could not be sure that a sufficient number of canoes
+would be forthcoming unless he took charge of matters himself, he should
+accompany the caravan to the crossing place, which was about an hour's
+march from the spot. "Everything should be done for his friend," he
+said.
+
+They were ready to set out. On Susi's going to the hut, Dr. Livingstone
+told him that he was quite unable to walk to the door to reach the
+kitanda, and he wished the men to break down one side of the little
+house, as the entrance was too narrow to admit it, and in this manner to
+bring it to him where he was: this was done, and he was gently placed
+upon it, and borne out of the village.
+
+Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they followed it
+till they came to a reach where the current was uninterrupted by the
+numerous little islands which stood partly in the river and partly in
+the flood on the upper waters. Kalunganjovu was seated on a knoll, and
+actively superintended the embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone told his
+bearers to take him to a tree at a little distance off, that he might
+rest in the shade till most of the men were on the other side. A good
+deal of care was required, for the river, by no means a large one in
+ordinary times, spread its waters in all directions, so that a false
+step, or a stumble in any unseen hole, would have drenched the invalid
+and the bed also on which he was carried.
+
+The passage occupied some time, and then came the difficult task of
+conveying the Doctor across, for the canoes were not wide enough to
+allow the kitanda to be deposited in the bottom of either of them.
+Hitherto, no matter how weak, Livingstone had always been able to sit in
+the various canoes they had used on like occasions, but now he had no
+power to do so. Taking his bed off the kitanda, they laid it in the
+bottom of the strongest canoe, and tried to lift him; but he could not
+bear the pain of a hand being passed under his back. Beckoning to
+Chumah, in a faint voice he asked him to stoop down over him as low as
+possible, so that he might clasp his hands together behind his head,
+directing him at the same how to avoid putting any pressure on the
+lumbar region of the back; in this way he was deposited in the bottom of
+the canoe, and quickly ferried across the Mulilamo by Chowp�r�, Susi,
+Farijala, and Chumah. The same precautions were used on the other side:
+the kitanda was brought close to the canoe, so as to prevent any
+unnecessary pain in disembarking.
+
+Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo's village, and superintend
+the building of another house. For the first mile or two they had to
+carry the Doctor through swamps and plashes, glad to reach something
+like a dry plain at last.
+
+It would seem that his strength was here at its very lowest ebb. Chumah,
+one of his bearers on these the last weary miles the great traveller was
+destined to accomplish, says that they were every now and then implored
+to stop and place their burden on the ground. So great were the pangs of
+his disease during this day that he could make no attempt to stand, and
+if lifted for a few yards a drowsiness came over him, which alarmed them
+all excessively. This was specially the case at one spot where a tree
+stood in the path. Here one of his attendants was called to him, and, on
+stooping down, he found him unable to speak from faintness. They
+replaced him in the kitanda, and made the best of their way on the
+journey. Some distance further on great thirst oppressed him; he asked
+them if they had any water, but, unfortunately for once, not a drop was
+to be procured. Hastening on for fear of getting too far separated from
+the party in advance, to their great comfort they now saw Farijala
+approaching with some which Susi had thoughtfully sent off from
+Chitambo's village.
+
+Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would not complete
+their task, for again at a clearing the sick man entreated them to place
+him on the ground, and to let him stay where he was. Fortunately at this
+moment some of the outlying huts of the village came in sight, and they
+tried to rally him by telling him that he would quickly be in the house
+that the others had gone on to build, but they were obliged as it was to
+allow him to remain for an hour in the native gardens outside the town.
+
+On reaching their companions it was found that the work was not quite
+finished, and it became necessary therefore to lay him under the broad
+eaves of a native hut till things were ready.
+
+Chitambo's village at this time was almost empty. When the crops are
+growing it is the custom to erect little temporary houses in the fields,
+and the inhabitants, leaving their more substantial huts, pass the time
+in watching their crops, which are scarcely more safe by day than by
+night; thus it was that the men found plenty of room and shelter ready
+to their hand. Many of the people approached the spot where he lay whose
+praises had reached them in previous years, and in silent wonder they
+stood round him resting on their bows. Slight drizzling showers were
+falling, and as soon as possible his house was made ready and banked
+round with earth.
+
+Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and grass,
+occuping a position across and near to the bay-shaped end of the hut: in
+the bay itself bales and boxes were deposited, one of the latter doing
+duty for a table, on which the medicine chest and sundry other things
+were placed. A fire was lighted outside, nearly opposite the door,
+whilst the boy Majwara slept just within to attend to his master's wants
+in the night.
+
+On the _30th April, 1873,_ Chitambo came early to pay a visit of
+courtesy, and was shown into the Doctor's presence, but he was obliged
+to send him away, telling him to come again on the morrow, when he hoped
+to have more strength to talk to him, and he was not again disturbed. In
+the afternoon he asked Susi to bring his watch to the bedside, and
+explained to him the position in which to hold his hand, that it might
+lie in the palm whilst he slowly turned the key.
+
+So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently took to their
+huts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep watch, sat round the
+fires, all feeling that the end could not be far off. About 11 P.M.
+Susi, whose hut was close by, was told to go to his master. At the time
+there were loud shouts in the distance, and, on entering, Dr.
+Livingstone said, "Are our men making that noise?" "No," replied Susi;
+"I can hear from the cries that the people are scaring away a buffalo
+from their dura fields." A few minutes afterwards he said slowly, and
+evidently wandering, "Is this the Luapula?" Susi told him they were in
+Chitambo's village, near the Mulilamo, when he was silent for a while.
+Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he said, "Sikun'gapi
+kuenda Luapula?" (How many days is it to the Luapula?)
+
+"Na zani zikutatu, Bwana" (I think it is three days, master), replied
+Susi.
+
+A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed, half said, "Oh
+dear, dear!" and then dozed off again.
+
+It was about an hour later that Susi heard Majwara again outside the
+door, "Bwana wants you, Susi." On reaching the bed the Doctor told him
+he wished him to boil some water, and for this purpose he went to the
+fire outside, and soon returned with the copper kettle full. Calling him
+close, he asked him to bring his medicine-chest and to hold the candle
+near him, for the man noticed he could hardly see. With great difficulty
+Dr. Livingstone selected the calomel, which he told him to place by his
+side; then, directing him to pour a little water into a cup, and to put
+another empty one by it, he said in a low feeble voice, "All right; you
+can go out now." These were the last words he was ever heard to speak.
+
+It must have been about 4 A.M. when Susi heard Majwara's step once
+more. "Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don't know if he is alive." The
+lad's evident alarm made Susi run to arouse Chumah, Chowper�, Matthew,
+and Muanyas�r�, and the six men went immediately to the hut.
+
+Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Livingstone was not
+lying on it, but appeared to be engaged in prayer, and they
+instinctively drew backwards for the instant. Pointing to him, Majwara
+said, "When I lay down he was just as he is now, and it is because I
+find that he does not move that I fear he is dead." They asked the lad
+how long he had slept? Majwara said he could not tell, but he was sure
+that it was some considerable time: the men drew nearer.
+
+A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box, shed a light
+sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Livingstone was kneeling by the
+side of his bed, his body stretched forward, his head buried in his
+hands upon the pillow. For a minute they watched him: he did not stir,
+there was no sign of breathing; then one of them, Matthew, advanced
+softly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was sufficient;
+life had been extinct some time, and the body was almost cold:
+Livingstone was dead.
+
+His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up, and laid him full
+length on the bed, then, carefully covering him, they went out into the
+damp night air to consult together. It was not long before the cocks
+crew, and it is from this circumstance--coupled with the fact that Susi
+spoke to him some time shortly before midnight--that we are able to
+state with tolerable certainty that he expired early on the 1st of May.
+
+It has been thought best to give the narrative of these closing hours as
+nearly as possible in the words of the two men who attended him
+constantly, both here and in the many illnesses of like character which
+he endured in his last six years' wanderings; in fact from the first
+moment of the news arriving in England, it was felt to be indispensable
+that they should come home to state what occurred.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The men have much to consider as they cower around the watch-fire, and
+little time for deliberation. They are at their furthest point from home
+and their leader has fallen at their head; we shall see presently how
+they faced their difficulties.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Several inquiries will naturally arise on reading this distressing
+history; the foremost, perhaps, will be with regard to the entire
+absence of everything like a parting word to those immediately about
+him, or a farewell line to his family and friends at home. It must be
+very evident to the reader that Livingstone entertained very grave
+forebodings about his health during the last two years of his life, but
+it is not clear that he realized the near approach of death when his
+malady suddenly passed into a more dangerous stage.
+
+It may be said, "Why did he not take some precautions or give some
+strict injunctions to his men to preserve his note-books and maps, at
+all hazards, in the event of his decease? Did not his great ruling
+passion suggest some such precaution?"
+
+Fair questions, but, reader, you have all--every word written, spoken,
+or implied.
+
+Is there, then, no explanation? Yes; we think past experience affords
+it, and it is offered to you by one who remembers moreover how
+Livingstone himself used to point out to him in Africa the peculiar
+features of death by malarial poisoning.
+
+In full recollection of eight deaths in the Zambesi and Shir� districts,
+not a single parting word or direction in any instance can be recalled.
+Neither hope nor courage give way as death approaches. In most cases a
+comatose state of exhaustion supervenes, which, if it be not quickly
+arrested by active measures, passes into complete insensibility: this is
+almost invariably the closing scene.
+
+In Dr. Livingstone's case we find some departure from the ordinary
+symptoms.[35] He, as we have seen by the entry of the 18th April was
+alive to the conviction that malarial poison is the basis of every
+disorder in Tropical Africa, and he did not doubt but that he was fully
+under its influence whilst suffering so severely. As we have said, a man
+of less endurance in all probability would have perished in the first
+week of the terrible approach to the Lake, through the flooded country
+and under the continual downpour that he describes. It tried every
+constitution, saturated every man with fever poison, and destroyed
+several, as we shall see a little further on. The greater vitality in
+his iron system very likely staved off for a few days the last state of
+coma to which we refer, but there is quite sufficient to show us that
+only a thin margin lay between the heavy drowsiness of the last few days
+before reaching Chitambo's and the final and usual symptom that brings
+on unconsciousness and inability to speak.
+
+On more closely questioning the men one only elicits that they imagine
+he hoped to recover as he had so often done before, and if this really
+was the case it will in a measure account for the absence of anything
+like a dying statement, but still they speak again and again of his
+drowsiness, which in itself would take away all ability to realize
+vividly the seriousness of the situation. It may be that at the last a
+flash of conviction for a moment lit up the mind--if so, what greater
+consolation can those have who mourn his loss, than the account that the
+men give of what they saw when they entered the hut?
+
+Livingstone had not merely turned himself, he had risento pray; he
+still rested on his knees, his hands were clasped under his head: when
+they approached him he seemed to live. He had not fallen to right or
+left when he rendered up his spirit to God. Death required no change of
+limb or position; there was merely the gentle settling forwards of the
+frame unstrung by pain, for the Traveller's perfect rest had come. Will
+not time show that the men were scarcely wrong when they thought "he yet
+speaketh"--aye, perhaps far more clearly to us than he could have done
+by word or pen or any other means!
+
+Is it, then, presumptuous to think that the long-used fervent prayer of
+the wanderer sped forth once more--that the constant supplication became
+more perfect in weakness, and that from his "loneliness" David
+Livingstone, with a dying effort, yet again besought Him for whom He
+laboured to break down the oppression and woe of the land?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Before daylight the men were quietly told in each hut what had happened,
+and that they were to assemble. Coming together as soon as it was light
+enough to see, Susi and Chumah said that they wished everybody to be
+present whilst the boxes were opened, so that in case money or valuables
+were in them, all might be responsible. Jacob Wainwright (who could
+write, they knew) was asked to make some notes which should serve as an
+inventory, and then the boxes were brought out from the hut.
+
+Before he left England in 1865, Dr. Livingstone arranged that his
+travelling equipment should be as compact as possible. An old friend
+gave him some exceedingly well-made tin-boxes, two of which lasted out
+the whole of his travels. In these his papers and instruments were safe
+from wet and from white ants, which have to be guarded against more than
+anything else. Besides the articles mentioned below, a number of letters
+and despatches in various stages were likewise enclosed, and one can
+never sufficiently extol the good feeling which after his death
+invested all these writings with something like a sacred care in the
+estimation of his men. It was the Doctor's custom to carry a small
+metallic note-book in his pocket: a quantity of these have come to hand
+filled from end to end, and as the men preserved every one that they
+found, we have a daily entry to fall back upon. Nor was less care shown
+for his rifles, sextants, his Bible and Church-service, and the medicine
+chest.
+
+Jacob's entry is as follows, and it was thoughtfully made at the back
+end of the same note-book that was in use by the Doctor when he died. It
+runs as follows:--
+
+"11 o'clock night, 28th April.
+
+"In the chest was found about a shilling and half, and in other chest
+his hat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of measuring instrument, and in each
+box there was one. 1 compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument. 4
+other kind of measuring instrument. And in other chest 3 drachmas and
+half half scrople."
+
+A word is necessary concerning the first part of this. It will be
+observed that Dr. Livingstone made his last note on the 27th April.
+Jacob, referring to it as the only indication of the day of the month,
+and fancying, moreover, that it was written on the _preceding day,_
+wrote down "28th April." Had he observed that the few words opposite the
+27th in the pocket-book related to the stay at Kalunganjovu's village,
+and not to any portion of the time at Chitambo's, the error would have
+been avoided. Again, with respect to the time. It was about 11 o'clock
+P.M. when Susi last saw his master alive, and therefore this time is
+noted, but both he and Chumah feel quite sure, from what Majwara said,
+that death did not take place till some hours after.
+
+It was not without some alarm that the men realised their more
+immediate difficulties: none could see better than they what
+complications might arise in an hour.
+
+They knew the superstitious horror connected with the dead to be
+prevalent in the tribes around them, for the departed spirits of men are
+universally believed to have vengeance and mischief at heart as their
+ruling idea in the land beyond the grave. All rites turn on this belief.
+The religion of the African is a weary attempt to propitiate those who
+show themselves to be still able to haunt and destroy, as war comes or
+an accident happens.
+
+On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief and people make
+common cause against those who wander through their territory, and have
+the misfortune to lose one of their party by death. Who is to tell the
+consequences? Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences,
+and the men regarded their position with no small apprehension.
+
+Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chumah placed the state of
+affairs before them, and asked what should be done. They received a
+reply from those whom Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, which
+was hearty and unanimous. "You," said they, "are old men in travelling
+and in hardships; you must act as our chiefs, and we will promise to
+obey whatever you order us to do." From this moment we may look on Susi
+and Chumah as the Captains of the caravan. To their knowledge of the
+country, of the tribes through which they were to pass, but, above all,
+to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was maintained throughout,
+their safe return to Zanzibar at the head of their men must, under God's
+good guidance, be mainly attributed.
+
+All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance of Dr.
+Livingstone's decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy would be inflicted
+upon them as compensation for damage done that their means would be
+crippled, and they could hardly expect to pay their way to the coast. It
+was decided that, come what might, the body _must be borne to Zanzibar._
+It was also arranged to take it secretly, if possible, to a hut at some
+distance off, where the necessary preparations could be carried out, and
+for this purpose some men were now despatched with axes to cut wood,
+whilst others went to collect grass. Chumah set off to see Chitambo, and
+said that they wanted to build a place outside the village, if he would
+allow it, for they did not like living amongst the huts. His consent was
+willingly given.
+
+Later on in the day two of the men went to the people to buy food, and
+divulged the secret: the chief was at once informed of what had
+happened, and started for the spot on which the new buildings were being
+set up. Appealing to Chumah, he said, "Why did you not tell me the
+truth? I know that your master died last night. You were afraid to let
+me know, but do not fear any longer. I, too, have travelled, and more
+than once have been to Bwani (the Coast), before the country on the road
+was destroyed by the Mazitu. I know that you have no bad motives in
+coming to our land, and death often happens to travellers in their
+journeys." Reassured by this speech, they told him of their intention to
+prepare the body and to take it with them. He, however, said it would be
+far better to bury it there, for they were undertaking an impossible
+task; but they held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to the
+new hut the same day on the kitanda carefully covered with cloth and a
+blanket.
+
+_2nd May, 1873._--The next morning Susi paid a visit to Chitambo, making
+him a handsome present and receiving in return a kind welcome. It is
+only right to add, that the men speak on all occasions with gratitude of
+Chitambo's conduct throughout, and say that he is a fine generous
+fellow. Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all honours
+should be shown to the dead, and the customary mourning was arranged
+forthwith.
+
+At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people, and accompanied by his
+wives, came to the new settlement. He was clad in a broad red cloth,
+which covered the shoulders, whilst the wrapping of native cotton cloth,
+worn round the waist, fell as low as his ankles. All carried bows,
+arrows, and spears, but no guns were seen. Two drummers joined in the
+loud wailing lamentation, which so indelibly impresses itself on the
+memories of people who have heard it in the East, whilst the band of
+servants fired volley after volley in the air, according to the strict
+rule of Portuguese and Arabs on such occasions.
+
+As yet nothing had been done to the corpse.
+
+A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the principal one.
+It was constructed in such a manner that it should be open to the air at
+the top, and sufficiently strong to defy the attempts of any wild beast
+to break through it. Firmly driven boughs and saplings were planted side
+by side and bound together, so as to make a regular stockade. Close to
+this building the men constructed their huts, and, finally, the whole
+settlement had another high stockade carried completely around it.
+
+Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse on the following
+morning. One of the men, Saf�n�, whilst in Kalunganjovu's district,
+bought a large quantity of salt: this was purchased of him for sixteen
+strings of beads, there was besides some brandy in the Doctor's stores,
+and with these few materials they hoped to succeed in their object.
+
+Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had picked up some
+knowledge of the method pursued in making _post-mortem_ examinations,
+whilst a servant to a doctor at Zanzibar, and at his request, Carras,
+one of the Nassick boys, was told off to assist him. Previous to this,
+however, early on the 3rd May, a special mourner arrived. He came with
+the anklets which are worn on these occasions, composed of rows of
+hollow seed-vessels, fitted with rattling pebbles, and in low monotonous
+chant sang, whilst he danced, as follows:
+
+    L�lo kwa Eng�r�s�,
+    Muana sisi oa konda:
+    Tu kamb' tamb' Eng�r�s�.
+
+    which translated is--
+
+    To-day the Englishman is dead,
+    Who has different hair from ours:
+    Come round to see the Englishman.
+
+His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied him in the
+ceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads.
+
+The emaciated remains of the deceased traveller were soon afterwards
+taken to the place prepared. Over the heads of Farijala and
+Carras--Susi, Chumah, and Muanyas�r� held a thick blanket as a kind of
+screen, under which the men performed their duties. Tofik� and John
+Wainwright were present. Jacob Wainwright had been asked to bring his
+Prayer Book with him, and stood apart against the wall of the enclosure.
+
+In reading about the lingering sufferings of Dr. Livingstone as
+described by himself, and subsequently by these faithful fellows, one is
+quite prepared to understand their explanation, and to see why it was
+possible to defer these operations so long after death: they say that
+his frame was little more than skin and bone. Through an incision
+carefully made, the viscera were removed, and a quantity of salt was
+placed in the trunk. All noticed one very significant circumstance in
+the autopsy. A clot of coagulated blood, as large as a man's hand, lay
+in the left side,[36] whilst Farijalapointed to the state of the lungs,
+which they describe as dried up, and covered with black and white
+patches.
+
+The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed in a tin box, which
+had formerly contained flour, and decently and reverently buried in a
+hole dug some four feet deep on the spot where they stood. Jacob was
+then asked to read the Burial Service, which he did in the presence of
+all. The body was left to be fully exposed to the sun. No other means
+were taken to preserve it, beyond placing some brandy in the mouth and
+some on the hair; nor can one imagine for an instant that any other
+process would have been available either for Europeans or natives,
+considering the rude appliances at their disposal. The men kept watch
+day and night to see that no harm came to their sacred charge. Their
+huts surrounded the building, and had force been used to enter its
+strongly-barred door, the whole camp would have turned out in a moment.
+Once a day the position of the body was changed, but at no other time
+was any one allowed to approach it.
+
+No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen days'
+exposure. At the end of this period preparations were made for retracing
+their steps. The corpse, by this time tolerably dried, was wrapped round
+in some calico, the leg being bent inwards at the knees to shorten the
+package. The next thing was to plan something in which to carry it, and,
+in the absence of planking or tools, an admirable substitute was found
+by stripping from a Myonga tree enough of the bark in one piece to form
+a cylinder, and in it their master was laid. Over this case a piece of
+sailcloth was sewn, and the whole package was lashed securely to a pole,
+so as to be carried by two men.
+
+Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription on the large Mvula
+tree which stands by the place where the body rested, stating the name
+of Dr. Livingstone and the date of his death, and, before leaving, the
+men gave strict injunctions to Chitambo to keep the grass cleared away,
+so as to save it from the bush-fires which annually sweep over the
+country and destroy so many trees. Besides this, they erected close to
+the spot two high thick posts, with an equally strong cross-piece, like
+a lintel and door-posts in form, which they painted thoroughly with the
+tar that was intended for the boat: this sign they think will remain for
+a long time from the solidity of the timber. Before parting with
+Chitambo, they gave him a large tin biscuit-box and some newspapers,
+which would serve as evidence to all future travellers that a white man
+had been at his village.
+
+The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the tree and the
+timber sign-posts from being touched, but added, that he hoped the
+English would not be long in coming to see him, because there was always
+the risk of an invasion of Mazitu, when he would have to fly, and the
+tree might be cut down for a canoe by some one, and then all trace would
+be lost. All was now ready for starting.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[33] Two hours and a quarter in a south-westerly direction.
+
+[34] The name Molilamo is allowed to stand, but in Dr. Livingstone's
+Map we find it Lulimala, and the men confirm, this pronunciation.--ED.
+
+[35] The great loss of blood may have had a bearing on the case.
+
+[36] It has been suggested by one who attended Dr. Livingstone
+professionally in several dangerous illnesses in Africa, that the
+ultimate cause of death was acute splenitis.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'Kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyemb�. Chumah
+    meets Lieutenant Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding
+    remarks.
+
+
+The homeward march was then begun. Throughout its length we shall
+content ourselves with giving the approximate number of days occupied in
+travelling and halting. Although the memories of both men are
+excellent--standing the severest test when they are tried by the light
+of Dr. Livingstone's journals, or "set on" at any passage of his
+travels--they kept no precise record of the time spent at villages where
+they were detained by sickness, and so the exactness of a diary can no
+longer be sustained.
+
+To return to the caravan. They found on this the first day's journey
+that some other precautions were necessary to enable the bearers of the
+mournful burden to keep to their task. Sending to Chitambo's village,
+they brought thence the cask of tar which they had deposited with the
+chief, and gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This answered
+all purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, with orders
+to send it back to head-quarters, and then continued their course
+through Ilala, led by their guides in the direction of the Luapula.
+
+A moment's inspection of the map will explain the line of country to be
+traversed. Susi and Chumah had travelled with Dr. Livingstone in the
+neighbourhood of the north-west shores of Bangweolo in previous years.
+The last fatal road from the north might be struck by a march in a due
+N.E. direction, if they could but hold out so far without any serious
+misfortune; but in order to do this they must first strike northwards so
+as to reach the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part not
+necessarily far from its exit from the Lake, they could at once lay
+their course for the south end of Tanganyika.
+
+There were, however, serious indications amongst them. First one and
+then the other dropped out of the file, and by the time they reached a
+town belonging to Chitambo's brother--and on the third day only since
+they set out--half their number were _hors de combat_. It was impossible
+to go on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The symptoms were
+intense pain in the limbs and face, great prostration, and, in the bad
+cases, inability to move. The men attributed it to the continual wading
+through water before the Doctor's death. They think that illness had
+been waiting for some further slight provocation, and that the previous
+days' tramp, which was almost entirely through plashy Bougas or swamps,
+turned the scale against them.
+
+Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one leg, and then
+quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly died. Kaniki and Bahati,
+two of the women, expired in a few days, and all looked at its worst. It
+took them a good month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey.
+
+Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and the natives
+day by day brought an abundance of food to the sick men. From them they
+heard that the districts they were now in were notoriously unhealthy,
+and that many an Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave his
+bones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an excursion to
+the westward, and on their return reported a large deep river flowing
+into the Luapula on the left bank. Unfortunately no notice was taken of
+its name, for it would be of considerable geographical interest.
+
+At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of the border
+villages in Ilala the same night, but the next day several fell ill for
+the second time, Susi being quite unable to move.
+
+Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, was fully aware of
+everything that had taken place at Chitambo's, and showed the men the
+greatest kindness. Not a day passed without his bringing them some
+present or other, but there was a great disinclination amongst the
+people to listen to any details connected with Dr. Livingstone's death.
+Some return for their kindness was made by Farijala shooting three
+buffaloes near the town: meat and goodwill go together all over Africa,
+and the liberal sportsman scores points at many a turn. A cow was
+purchased here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twentieth
+day all were sufficiently strong on their legs to push forwards.
+
+The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon hove in sight.
+Putting themselves under a guide, they were conducted to the village of
+Chisalamalama, who willingly offered them canoes for the passage across
+the next day.[37]
+
+As one listens to the report that the men give of this mighty river, he
+instinctively bends his eyes on a dark burden laid in the canoe! How
+ardently would he have scanned it whose body thus passes across these
+waters, and whose spirit, in its last hours' sojourn in this world,
+wandered in thought and imagination to its stream!
+
+It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the width of the
+Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of fully four miles. A man
+could not be seen on the opposite bank: trees looked small: a gun could
+be heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across the
+river--such is the description given by men who were well able to
+compare the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they were
+able to use the "m'phondo," or punting pole, for a distance through
+reeds, then came clear deep water for some four hundred yards, again a
+broad reedy expanse, followed by another deep part, succeeded in turn by
+another current not so broad as those previously paddled across, and
+then, as on the starting side, gradually shoaling water, abounding in
+reeds. Two islands lay just above the crossing-place. Using pole and
+paddle alternately, the passage took them fully two hours across this
+enormous torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo towards the
+north.
+
+A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping beyond the
+Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant was doomed to end
+his career at this spot!
+
+According to custom, a special stable was built for him close to the
+men. In the middle of the night a great disturbance, coupled with the
+shouting of Amoda, aroused the camp. The men rushed out and found the
+stable broken down and the donkey gone. Snatching, some logs, they set
+fire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a lion
+close to the body of the poor animal, which was quite dead. Those who
+had caught up their guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and the
+lion made off. It was evident that the donkey had been seized by the
+nose, and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the guns
+had taken effect. The lion's blood lay in a broad track (for he was
+apparently injured in the back, and could only drag himself along); but
+the footprints of a second lion were too plain to make it advisable to
+track him far in the thick cover he had reached, and so the search was
+abandoned. The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes
+remained near the village, and it is most probable that it went to make
+a feast at Chisalamalama's.
+
+[Illustration: An old Servant destroyed.]
+
+Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were fain to make
+their next stopping-place in a spot where an enormous ant-hill spread
+itself out,--a small island in the waters. A fire was lit, and by
+employing hoes, most of them dug something like a form to sleep in on
+the hard earth.
+
+Thankful to leave such a place, their guide led them next day to the
+village of Kawinga, whom they describe as a tall man, of singularly
+light colour, and the owner of a gun, a unique weapon in these parts,
+but one already made useless by wear and tear. The next village,
+N'kossu's, was much more important. The people, called Kawend�, formerly
+owned plenty of cattle, but now they are reduced: the Banyamwesi have
+put them under the harrow, and but few herds remain. We may call
+attention to the somewhat singular fact, that the hump quite disappears
+in the Lake breed; the cows would pass for respectable shorthorns.[38]
+
+A present was made to the caravan of a cow; but it seems that the rule,
+"first catch your hare," is in full force in N'kossu's pastures. The
+animals are exceedingly wild, and a hunt has to be set on foot whenever
+beef is wanted; it was so in this case. Saf�n� and Muanyas�r� with their
+guns essayed to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old hunter as we
+have seen, was not likely to do much harm; but Saf�n�, firing wildly at
+the cow, hit one of the villagers, and smashed the bone of the poor
+fellow's thigh. Although it was clearly an accident, such things do not
+readily settle themselves down on this assumption in Africa. The chief,
+however, behaved very well. He told them a fine would have to be paid on
+the return of the wounded man's father, and it had better be handed to
+him, for by law the blame would fall on him, as the entertainer of the
+man who had brought about the injury. He admitted that he had ordered
+all his people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred,
+but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been heard.
+They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond to the demand; the
+process adopted to set the broken limb is a sample of native surgery,
+which must not be passed over.
+
+[Illustration: Kawend� Surgery.]
+
+First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in length, in
+such a manner that the patient could sit in it with his legs out before
+him. A large leaf was then bound round the fractured thigh, and earth
+thrown in, so that the patient was buried up to the chest. The next act
+was to cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick layer
+of mud; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire lit
+on the top directly over the fracture. To prevent the smoke smothering
+the sufferer, they held a tall mat as a screen before his face, and the
+operation went on. After some time the heat reached the limbs
+underground. Bellowing with fear and covered with perspiration, the man
+implored them to let him out. The authorities concluding that he had
+been under treatment a sufficient time, quickly burrowed down and lifted
+him from the hole. He was now held perfectly fast, whilst two strong men
+stretched the wounded limb with all their might! Splints, duly prepared
+were afterwards bound round it, and we must hope that in due time
+benefit accrued, but as the ball had passed through the limb, we must
+have our doubts on the subject. The villagers told Chuma that after the
+Wanyamwesi engagements they constantly treated bad gunshot-wounds in
+this way with perfect success.
+
+Leaving N'kossu's, they rested one night at another village belonging to
+him, and then made for the territory of the Wa Ussi. Here they met with
+a surly welcome, and were told they must pass on. No doubt the
+intelligence that they were carrying their master's body had a great
+deal to do with it, for the news seemed to spread with the greatest
+rapidity in all directions. Three times they camped in the forest, and
+for a wonder began to find some dry ground. The path lay in the direct
+line of Chawend�'s town, parallel to the north shore of the Lake, and at
+no great distance from it.
+
+Some time previously a solitary Unyamwesi had attached himself to the
+party at Chitankooi's, where he had been left sick by a passing caravan
+of traders: this man now assured them the country before them was well
+known to him.
+
+Approaching Chawend�'s, according to native etiquette, Amoda and Sabouri
+went on in front to inform the chief, and to ask leave to enter his
+town. As they did not come back, Muanyas�r� and Chuma set off after
+them to ascertain the reason of the delay. No better success seemed to
+attend this second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all went
+forward in the track of the four messengers.
+
+In the mean time, Chuma and Muanyas�r� met Amoda and Sabouri coming back
+towards them with five men. They reported that they had entered the
+town, but found it a very large stockaded place; moreover, two other
+villages of equal size were close to it. Much pombe drinking was going
+on. On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his gun against the
+principal hut innocently enough. Chawend�'s son, drunk and quarrelsome,
+made this a cause of offence, and swaggering up, he insolently asked
+them how they dared to do such a thing. Chawend� interfered, and for the
+moment prevented further disagreeables; in fact, he himself seems to
+have been inclined to grant the favour which was asked: however, there
+was danger brewing, and the men retired.
+
+When the main body met them returning, tired with their fruitless
+errand, a consultation took place. Wood there was none. To scatter about
+and find materials with which to build shelter for the night, would only
+offer a great temptation to these drunken excited people to plunder the
+baggage. It was resolved to make for the town.
+
+When they reached the gate of the stockade they were flatly refused
+admittance, those inside telling them to go down to the river and camp
+on the bank. They replied that this was impossible: that they were
+tired, it was very late, and nothing could be found there to give them
+shelter. Meeting with no different answer, Saf�n� said, "Why stand
+talking to them? let us get in somehow or other;" and, suiting the
+action to the word, they pushed the men back who stood in the gateway.
+Saf�n� got through, and Muanyas�r� climbed over the top of the stockade,
+followed by Chuma, who instantly opened the gate wide and let his
+companions through. Hostilities might still have been averted had
+better counsel prevailed.
+
+The men began to look about for huts in which to deposit their things,
+when the same drunken fellow drew a bow and fired at Muanyas�r�. The man
+called out to the others to seize him, which was done in an instant. A
+loud cry now burst forth that the chief's son was in danger, and one of
+the people, hurling a spear, wounded Sabouri slightly in the thigh: this
+was the signal for a general scrimmage.
+
+Chawend�'s men fled from the town; the drums beat the assembly in all
+directions, and an immense number flocked to the spot from the two
+neighbouring villages, armed with their bows, arrows, and spears. An
+assault instantly began from the outside. N'chis� was shot with an arrow
+in the shoulder through the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. Things
+were becoming desperate. Putting the body of Dr. Livingstone and all
+their goods and chattels in one hut, they charged out of the town, and
+fired on the assailants, killing two and wounding several others.
+Fearing that they would only gather together in the other remaining
+villages and renew the attack at night, the men carried these quickly
+one by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built on the
+same side of the river, then crossing over, they fired on the canoes
+which were speeding towards the deep water of Bangweolo, through the
+channel of the Lopupussi, with disastrous results to the fugitive
+people.
+
+Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. By the fortunes
+of war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense quantity of food fell into
+their hands; and they remained for a week to recruit. Once or twice they
+found men approaching at night to throw fire on the roofs of the huts
+from outside, but with this exception they were not interfered with. On
+the last day but one a man approached and called to them at the top of
+his voice not to set fire to the chief's town (it was his that they
+occupied); for the bad son had brought all this upon them; he added that
+the old man had been overruled, and they were sorry enough for his bad
+conduct.
+
+Listening to the account given of this occurrence, one cannot but lament
+the loss of life and the whole circumstances of the fight. Whilst on the
+one hand we may imagine that the loss of a cool, conciliatory, brave
+leader was here felt in a grave degree, we must also see that it was
+known far and wide that this very loss was now a great weakness to his
+followers. There is no surer sign of mischief in Africa than these
+trumpery charges of bewitching houses by placing things on them: some
+such over-strained accusation is generally set in the front rank when
+other difficulties are to come: drunkenness is pretty much the same
+thing in all parts of the world, and gathers misery around it as easily
+in an African village as in an English city. Had the cort�ge submitted
+to extortion and insult, they felt that their night by the river would
+have been a precarious one--even if they had been in a humour to sleep
+in a swamp when a town was at hand. These things gave occasion to them
+to resort to force. The desperate nature of their whole enterprise in
+starting for Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own stock of
+determination, and now it found vent under evil provocation. If there is
+room for any other feeling than regret, it lies in the fact that, on
+mature consideration and in sober moments, the people who suffered, cast
+the real blame on the right shoulders.
+
+For the next three days after leaving Chawend�'s they were still in the
+same inundated fringe of Bouga, which surrounds the Lake, and on each
+occasion had to camp at nightfall wherever a resting-place could be
+found in the jungle, reaching Chama's village on the fourth day. A delay
+of forty-eight hours was necessary, as Susi's wife fell ill; and for
+the next few marches she was carried in a kitanda. They met an Unyamwesi
+man here, who had come from Kumbakumba's town in the Wa Ussi district.
+He related to them how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried to
+carry Chawend�'s town by assault, but had been repulsed both times. It
+would seem that, with the strong footing these invaders have in the
+country, armed as they are besides with the much-dreaded guns, it can
+only be a matter of time before the whole rule, such as it is, passes
+into the hands of the new-comers.
+
+The next night was spent in the open, before coming to the scattered
+huts of Ngumbu's, where a motley group of stragglers, for the most part
+Wabisa, were busy felling the trees and clearing the land for
+cultivation. However, the little community gave them a welcome, in spite
+of the widespread report of the fighting at Chawend�'s, and dancing and
+drumming were kept up till morning.
+
+One more night was passed in the plain, and they reached a tributary of
+the Lopupussi River, called the M'Pamba; it is a considerable stream,
+and takes one up to the chest in crossing. They now drew near to
+Chiwaie's town, which they describe as a very strong place, fortified
+with a stockade and ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagers
+tried to pick a quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was their
+invariable custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, march at their head,
+whilst the Union Jack and the red colours of Zanzibar were carried in a
+foremost place in the line. Fortunately a chief of some importance came
+up and stopped the discussion, or there might have been more mischief,
+for the men were in no temper to lower their flag, knowing their own
+strength pretty well by this time. Making their settlement close to
+Chiwaie's, they met with much kindness, and were visited by crowds of
+the inhabitants.
+
+Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's village; sleeping
+two nights in the jungle they made Chungu's, and in another day's march
+found themselves, to their great delight, at Kapesha's. They knew their
+road from this point, for on the southern route with Dr. Livingstone
+they had stopped here, and could therefore take up the path that leads
+to Tanganyika. Hitherto their course had been easterly, with a little
+northing, but now they turned their backs to the Lake, which they had
+held on the right-hand since crossing the Luapula, and struck almost
+north.
+
+From Kapesha's to Lake Bangweolo is a three days' march as the crow
+flies, for a man carrying a burden. They saw a large quantity of iron
+and copper wire being made here by a party of Wanyamwesi. The process is
+as follows:--A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped hole in it, is
+firmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is then thrust into it,
+and a line attached to the first few inches which can be coaxed through.
+A number of men haul on this line, singing and dancing in tune, and thus
+it is drawn through the first drill; it is subsequently passed through
+others to render it still finer, and excellent wire is the result.
+Leaving Kapesha they went through many of the villages already
+enumerated in Dr. Livingstone's Diary. Chama's people came to see them
+as they passed by him, and after some mutterings and growlings Casongo
+gave them leave to buy food at his town. Reaching Chama's head-quarters
+they camped outside, and received a civil message, telling them to
+convey his orders to the people on the banks of the Kalongwesi that the
+travellers must be ferried safely across. They found great fear and
+misery prevailing in the neighbourhood from the constant raids made by
+Kumbakumba's men.
+
+Leaving the Kalangw�s� behind them they made for M'sama's son's town,
+meeting four men on the way who were going from Kumbakumba to Chama to
+beat up recruits for an attack on the Katanga people. The request was
+sure to be met with alarm and refusal, but it served very well to act
+the part taken by the wolf in the fable. A grievance would immediately
+be made of it, and Chama "eaten up" in due course for daring to gainsay
+the stronger man. Such is too frequently the course of native
+oppression. At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight. Already the large
+district of Itawa has tacitly allowed itself to be put under the harrow
+by this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab. Black-mail is levied in all directions,
+and the petty chiefs, although really under tribute to Nsama, are
+sagacious enough to keep in with the powers that be. Kumbakumba showed
+the men a storehouse full of elephants' tusks. A small detachment was
+sent off to try and gain tidings of one of the Nassick boys, John, who
+had mysteriously disappeared a day or two previously on the march. At
+the time no great apprehensions were felt, but as he did not turn up the
+grass was set on fire in order that he might see the smoke if he had
+wandered, and guns were fired. Some think he purposely went off rather
+than carry a load any further; whilst others fear he may have been
+killed. Certain it is that after a five days' search in all directions
+no tidings could be gained either here or at Chama's, and nothing more
+was heard of the poor fellow.
+
+Numbers of slaves were collected here. On one occasion they saw five
+gangs bound neck to neck by chains, and working in the gardens outside
+the towns.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The talk was still about the break up of Casembe's power, for it will be
+recollected that Kumbakumba and Pemba Motu had killed him a short time
+before; but by far the most interesting news that reached them was that
+a party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on their way to
+relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio some months previously.
+
+The chief showed them every kindness during their five days' rest, and
+was most anxious that no mishap should by any chance occur to their
+principal charge. He warned them to beware of hy�nas, at night more
+especially, as the quarter in which they had camped had no stockade
+round it as yet.
+
+Marching was now much easier, and the men quickly found they had crossed
+the watershed. The Lovu ran in front of them on its way to Tanganyika.
+The Kalongwes�, we have seen, flows to Lake Moero in the opposite
+direction. More to their purpose it was perhaps to find the terror of
+Kumbakumba dying away as they travelled in a north-easterly direction,
+and came amongst the Mwambi. As yet no invasion had taken place. A young
+chief, Chungu, did all he could for them, for when the Doctor explored
+these regions before, Chungu had been much impressed with him: and now,
+throwing off all the native superstition, he looked on the arrival of
+the dead body as a cause of real sorrow.
+
+Asoumani had some luck in hunting, and a fine buffalo was killed near
+the town. According to native game laws (which in some respects are
+exceedingly strict in Africa), Chungu had a right to a fore leg--had it
+been an elephant the tusk next the ground would have been his, past all
+doubt--in this instance, however, the men sent in a plea that theirs was
+no ordinary case, and that hunger had laws of its own; they begged to be
+allowed to keep the whole carcase, and Chungu not only listened to their
+story, but willingly waived his claim to the chief's share.
+
+It is to be hoped that these sons of Tafuna, the head and father of the
+Amambwi a lungu, may hold their own. They seem a superior race, and this
+man is described as a worthy leader. His brothers Kasonso, Chitimbwa,
+Somb�, and their sister Mombo, are all notorious for their reverence for
+Tafuna. In their villages an abundance of coloured homespun cloth speaks
+for their industry; whilst from the numbers of dogs and elephant-spears
+no further testimony is needed to show that the character they bear as
+great hunters is well deserved.
+
+The steep descent to the Lake now lay before them, and they came to
+Kasakalaw�'s. Here it was that the Doctor had passed weary months of
+illness on his first approach to Tanganyika in previous years. The
+village contained but few of its old inhabitants, but those few received
+them hospitably enough and mourned the loss of him who had been so well
+appreciated when alive. So they journeyed on day by day till the
+southern end of the Lake was rounded.
+
+The previous experience of the difficult route along the heights
+bordering on Tanganyika made them determine to give the Lake a wide
+berth this time, and for this purpose they held well to the eastward,
+passing a number of small deserted villages, in one of which they camped
+nearly every night. It was necessary to go through the Fipa country, but
+they learnt from one man and another that the chief, Kafoofi, was very
+anxious that the body should not be brought near to his town--indeed, a
+guide was purposely thrown in their way who led them past it by a
+considerable d�tour. Kafoofi stands well with the coast Arabs. One,
+Ngombesassi by name, was at the time living with him, accompanied by his
+retinue of slaves. He had collected a very large quantity of ivory
+further in the interior, but dared not approach nearer at present to
+Unyanyemb� with it to risk the chance of meeting one of Mirambo's
+hordes.
+
+This road across the plain seems incomparably the best, No difficulty
+whatever was experienced, and one cannot but lament the toil and
+weariness which Dr. Livingstone endured whilst holding a course close to
+Tanganyika, although one must bear in mind that by no other means at the
+time could he complete his survey of this great inland sea, or acquaint
+us with its harbours, its bays, and the rivers which find their way
+into it on the east; these are details which will prove of value when
+small vessels come to navigate it in the future.
+
+The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days' march over
+Lambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which crosses the country east
+and west, and attains, it would seem, an altitude of some 4000 feet.
+Looking down on the plain from its highest passes a vast lake appears to
+stretch away in front towards the north, but on descending this resolves
+itself into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with saline
+incrustations. The path lay directly across this. The difficulties they
+anticipated had no real existence, for small villages were found, and
+water was not scarce, although brackish. The first demand for toll was
+made near here, but the headman allowed them to pass for fourteen
+strings of beads. Susi says that this plain literally swarms with herds
+of game of all kinds: giraffe and zebra were particularly abundant, and
+lions revelled in such good quarters. The settlements they came to
+belonged chiefly to elephant hunters. Farijala and Muanyas�r� did well
+with the buffalo, and plenty of beef came into camp.
+
+They gained some particulars concerning a salt-water lake on their
+right, at no very considerable distance. It was reported to them to be
+smaller than Tanganyika, and goes by the name Bahari ya Muarooli--the
+sea of Muarooli--for such is the name of the paramount chief who lives
+on its shore, and if we mistake not the very Mer�r�, or his successor,
+about whom Dr. Livingstone from time to time showed such interest. They
+now approached the Likwa River, which flows to this inland sea: they
+describe it as a stream running breast high, with brackish water; little
+satisfaction was got by drinking from it.
+
+Just as they came to the Likwa, a long string of men was seen on the
+opposite side filing down to the water, and being uncertain of their
+intentions, precautions were quickly taken to ensure the safety of the
+baggage. Dividing themselves into three parties, the first detachment
+went across to meet the strangers, carrying the Arab flag in front.
+Chuma headed another band at a little distance in the rear of these,
+whilst Susi and a few more crouched in the jungle, with the body
+concealed in a roughly-made hut. Their fears, however, were needless: it
+turned out to be a caravan bound for Fipa to hunt elephants and buy
+ivory and slaves. The new arrivals told them that they had come straight
+through Unyanyemb� from Bagamoio, on the coast, and that the Doctor's
+death had already been reported there by natives of Fipa.
+
+As we notice with what rapidity the evil tidings spread (for the men
+found that it had preceded them in all directions), one of the great
+anxieties connected with African travel and exploration seems to be
+rather increased than diminished. It shows us that it is never wise to
+turn an entirely deaf ear when the report of a disaster comes to hand,
+because in this instance the main facts were conveyed across country,
+striking the great arterial caravan route at Unyanyemb�, and getting at
+once into a channel that would ensure the intelligence reaching
+Zanzibar. On the other hand, false reports never lag on their
+journey:--how often has Livingstone been killed in former years! Nor is
+one's perplexity lessened by past experience, for we find the oldest and
+most sagacious travellers when consulted are, as a rule, no more to be
+depended on than the merest tyro in guessing.
+
+With no small satisfaction, the men learnt from the outward-bound
+caravan that the previous story was a true one, and they were assured
+that Dr. Livingstone's son with two Englishmen and a quantity of goods
+had already reached Unyanyemb�.
+
+The country here showed all the appearance of a salt-pan: indeed a
+quantity of very good salt was collected by one of the men, who thought
+he could turn an honest bunch of beads with it at Unyanyemb�.
+
+Petty tolls were levied on them. Kampama's deputy required four dotis,
+and an additional tax of six was paid to the chief of the Kanongo when
+his town was reached.
+
+The Lungwa River bowls away here towards Tanganyika. It is a quick
+tumbling stream, leaping amongst the rocks and boulders, and in its
+deeper pools it affords cool delight to schools of hippopotami. The men,
+who had hardly tasted good water since crossing Lambalamfipa, are loud
+in its praise. Muanyasere improved relations with the people at the next
+town by opportunely killing another buffalo, and all took a three days'
+rest. Yet another caravan met them, bound likewise for the interior, and
+adding further particulars about the Englishmen at Unyanyemb�. This
+quickened the pace till they found at one stage they were melting two
+days of the previous outward journey into one.
+
+Arriving at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of the party, was
+commissioned to write an account of the distressing circumstances of the
+Doctor's death, and Chuma, taking three men with him, pressed on to
+deliver it to the English party in person. The rest of the cort�ge
+followed them through the jungle to Chilunda's village. On the outskirts
+they came across a number of Wagogo hunting elephants with dogs and
+spears, but although they were well treated by them, and received
+presents of honey and food, they thought it better to keep these men in
+ignorance of the fact that they were in charge of the dead body of their
+master.
+
+The Manyara River was crossed on its way to Tanganyika before they got
+to Chikooloo, Leaving this village behind them, they advanced to the
+Ugunda district, now ruled by Kalimangombi, the son of Mb�r�k�, the
+former chief, and so on to Kasek�ra, which, it will be remembered, is
+not far from Unyanyemb�.
+
+_20th October, 1873._--We will here run on ahead with Chuma on his way
+to communicate with the new arrivals. He reached the Arab settlement
+without let or hindrance. Lieut. Cameron was quickly put in possession
+of the main facts of Dr. Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter,
+and Chuma was questioned concerning it in the presence of Dr. Dillon and
+Lieut. Murphy. It was a disappointment to find that the reported arrival
+of Mr. Oswell Livingstone was entirely erroneous; but Lieut. Cameron
+showed the wayworn men every kindness. Chuma rested one day before
+setting out to relieve his comrades to whom he had arranged to make his
+way as soon as possible. Lieut. Cameron expressed a fear that it would
+not be safe for him to carry the cloth he was willing to furnish them
+with if he had not a stronger convoy, as he himself had suffered too
+sorely from terrified bearers on his way thither; but the young fellows
+were pretty well acquainted with native marauders by this time, and set
+off without apprehension.
+
+And now the greater part of their task is over. The weather-beaten
+company wind their way into the old well-known settlement of Kwihara. A
+host of Arabs and their attendant slaves meet them as they sorrowfully
+take their charge to the same Temb� in which the "weary waiting" was
+endured before, and then they submit to the systematic questioning which
+the native traveller is so well able to sustain.
+
+News in abundance was offered in return. The porters of the Livingstone
+East-Coast Aid Expedition had plenty to relate to the porters sent by
+Mr. Stanley. Mirambo's war dragged on its length, and matters had
+changed very little since they were there before, either for better or
+for worse. They found the English officers extremely short of goods; but
+Lieut. Cameron, no doubt with the object of his Expedition full in view,
+very properly felt it a first duty to relieve the wants of the party
+that had performed this Herculean feat of bringing the body of the
+traveller he had been sent to relieve, together with every article
+belonging to him at the time of his death, as far as this main road to
+the coast.
+
+In talking to the men about their intentions, Lieut. Cameron had serious
+doubts whether the risk of taking the body of Dr. Livingstone through
+the Ugogo country ought to be run. It very naturally occurred to him
+that Dr. Livingstone might have felt a wish during life to be buried in
+the same land in which the remains of his wife lay, for it will be
+remembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shupanga, on the
+Zambesi. All this was put before the men, but they steadily adhered to
+their first conviction--that it was right at all risks to attempt to
+bear their master home, and therefore they were no longer urged to bury
+him at Kwihara.
+
+To the new comers it was of great interest to examine the boxes which
+the men had conveyed from Bangweolo. As we have seen, they had carefully
+packed up everything at Chitambo's--books, instruments, clothes, and all
+which would bear special interest in time to come from having been
+associated with Livingstone in his last hours.
+
+It cannot be conceded for a moment that these poor fellows would have
+been right in forbidding this examination, when we consider the relative
+position in which natives and English officers must always stand to each
+other; but it is a source of regret to relate that the chief part of
+Livingstone's instruments were taken out of the packages and
+appropriated for future purposes. The instruments with which all his
+observations had been made throughout a series of discoveries extending
+over seven years--aneroid barometers, compasses, thermometers, the
+sextant and other things, have gone on a new series of travels, to incur
+innumerable risks of loss, whilst one only of his thermometers comes to
+hand.
+
+We could well have wished these instruments safe in England with the
+small remnant of Livingstone's personal property, which was allowed to
+be shipped from Zanzibar.
+
+The Doctor had deposited four bales of cloth as a reserve stock with the
+Arabs, and these were immediately forthcoming for the march down.
+
+The termination here of the ill-fated Expedition need not be commented
+upon. One can only trust that Lieut. Cameron may be at liberty to pursue
+his separate investigations in the interior under more favourable
+auspices. The men seemed to anticipate his success, for he is generous
+and brave in the presence of the natives, and likely to win his way
+where others undoubtedly would have failed.
+
+Ill-health had stuck persistently to the party, and all the officers
+were suffering from the various forms of fever. Lieut. Cameron gave the
+men to understand that it was agreed Lieut. Murphy should return to
+Zanzibar, and asked if they could attach his party to their march; if
+so, the men who acted as carriers should receive 6 dollars a man for
+their services. This was agreed to. Susi had arranged that they should
+avoid the main path of the Wagogo; inasmuch, as if difficulty was to be
+encountered anywhere, it would arise amongst these lawless pugnacious
+people.
+
+By making a ten days' d�tour at "Jua Singa," and travelling by a path
+well known to one of their party through the jungle of Poli ya vengi,
+they hoped to keep out of harm's way, and to be able to make the cloth
+hold out with which they were supplied. At length the start was
+effected, and Dr. Dillon likewise quitted the Expedition to return to
+the coast. It was necessary to stop after the first day's march, for a
+long halt; for one of the women was unable to travel, they found, and
+progress was delayed till she, the wife of Chowp�r�h, could resume the
+journey. There seem to have been some serious misunderstandings between
+the leaders of Dr. Livingstone's party and Lieut. Murphy soon after
+setting out, which turned mainly on the subject of beginning the day's
+march. The former, trained in the old discipline of their master, laid
+stress on the necessity of very early rising to avoid the heat of the
+day, and perhaps pointed out more bluntly than pleasantly that if the
+Englishmen wanted to improve their health, they had better do so too.
+However, to a certain extent, this was avoided by the two companies
+pleasing themselves.
+
+Making an early start, the body was carried to Kasek�ra, by Susi's party
+where, from an evident disinclination to receive it into the village, an
+encampment was made outside. A consultation now became necessary. There
+was no disguising the fact that, if they kept along the main road,
+intelligence would precede them concerning that in which they were
+engaged, stirring up certain hostility and jeopardising the most
+precious charge they had. A plan was quickly hit upon. Unobserved, the
+men removed the corpse of the deceased explorer from the package in
+which it had hitherto been conveyed, and buried the bark case in the hut
+in the thicket around the village in which they had placed it. The
+object now was to throw the villagers off their guard, by making believe
+that they had relinquished the attempt to carry the body to Zanzibar.
+They feigned that they had abandoned their task, having changed their
+minds, and that it must be sent back to Unyanyemb� to be buried there.
+In the mean time the corpse of necessity had to be concealed in the
+smallest space possible, if they were actually to convey it secretly for
+the future; this was quickly managed.
+
+Susi and Chuma went into the wood and stripped off a fresh length of
+bark from an N'gombe tree; in this the remains, conveniently prepared as
+to length, were placed, the whole being surrounded with calico in such
+a manner as to appear like an ordinary travelling bale, which was then
+deposited with the rest of the goods. They next proceeded to gather a
+faggot of mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of six feet or so, and
+swathing them round with cloth to imitate a dead body about to be
+buried. This done, a paper, folded so as to represent a letter, was duly
+placed in a cleft stick, according to the native letter-carrier's
+custom, and six trustworthy men were told off ostensibly to go with the
+corpse to Unyanyemb�. With due solemnity the men set out; the villagers
+were only too thankful to see it, and no one suspected the ruse. It was
+near sundown. The bearers of the package held on their way, till fairly
+beyond all chance of detection, and then began to dispose of their load.
+The mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the jungle, and
+when all were disposed of, the wrappings were cunningly got rid of in
+the same way. Going further on, first one man, and then another, sprung
+clear from the path into the long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps,
+and the whole party returned by different ways to their companions, who
+had been anxiously awaiting them during the night. No one could detect
+the real nature of the ordinary-looking bale which, henceforth, was
+guarded with no relaxed vigilance, and eventually disclosed the bark
+coffin and wrappings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrival
+at Bagamoio. And now, devoid of fear, the people of Kasek�ra asked them
+all to come and take up their quarters in the town; a privilege which
+was denied them so long as it was known that they had the remains of the
+dead with them.
+
+But a dreadful event was about to recall to their minds how many fall
+victims to African disease!
+
+Dr. Dillon now came on to Kasek�ra suffering much from dysentery--a few
+hours more, and he shot himself in his tent by means of a loaded rifle.
+
+Those who knew the brave and generous spirit in which this hard-working
+volunteer set out with Lieut. Cameron, fully hoping to relieve Dr.
+Livingstone, will feel that he ended his life by an act alien indeed to
+his whole nature. The malaria imbibed during their stay at Unyanyemb�
+laid upon him the severest form of fever, accompanied by delirium, under
+which he at length succumbed in one of its violent paroxysms. His
+remains are interred at Kasek�ra.
+
+We must follow Susi's troop through a not altogether eventless journey
+to the sea. Some days afterwards, as they wended their way through a
+rocky place, a little girl in their train, named Losi, met her death in
+a shocking way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a water-jar
+on her head in the file of people, when an enormous snake dashed across
+the path, deliberately struck her in the thigh, and made for a hole in
+the jungle close at hand. This work of a moment was sufficient, for the
+poor girl fell mortally wounded. She was carried forward, and all means
+at hand were applied, but in less than ten minutes the last symptom
+(foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe.
+
+Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to prove the truth
+of an assertion made to travellers in many parts of Africa. The natives
+protest that one species of snake will deliberately chase and overtake
+his victim with lightning speed, and so dreadfully dangerous is it, both
+from the activity of its poison and its vicious propensities, that it is
+perilous to approach its quarters. Most singular to relate, an Arab came
+to some of the men after their arrival at Zanzibar and told them that he
+had just come by the Unyanyemb� road, and that, whilst passing the
+identical spot where this disaster occurred, one of the men was attacked
+by the same snake, with precisely the same results; in fact, when
+looking for a place in which to bury him they saw the grave of Losi, and
+the two lie side by side.
+
+Natal colonists will probably recognise the Mamba in this snake; it is
+much to be desired that specimens should be procured for purposes of
+comparison. In Southern Africa so great is the dread it inspires that
+the Kaffirs will break up a Kraal and forsake the place if a Mamba takes
+up his quarters in the vicinity, and, from what we have seen above, with
+no undue caution.
+
+Susi, to whom this snake is known in the Shupanga tongue as "Bubu,"
+describes it as about twelve feet long, dark in colour, of a dirty blue
+under the belly, with red markings like the wattles of a cock on the
+head. The Arabs go so far as to say that it is known to oppose the
+passage of a caravan at times. Twisting its tail round a branch, it will
+strike one man after another in the head with fatal certainty. Their
+remedy is to fill a pot with boiling water, which is put on the head and
+carried under the tree! The snake dashes his head into this and is
+killed--the story is given for what it is worth.
+
+It would seem that at Ujiji the natives, as in other places, cannot bear
+to have snakes killed. The "Chatu," a species of python, is common, and,
+from being highly favoured, becomes so tame as to enter houses at night.
+A little meal is placed on the stool, which the uncanny visitor laps up,
+and then takes its departure--the men significantly say they never saw
+it with their own eyes. Another species utters a cry, much like the
+crowing of a young cock; this is well authenticated. Yet another black
+variety has a spine like a blackthorn at the end of the tail, and its
+bite is extremely deadly.
+
+At the same time it must be added that, considering the enormous number
+of reptiles in Africa, it rarely occurs that anyone is bitten, and a few
+months' residence suffices to dispel the dread which most travellers
+feel at the outset.
+
+_February, 1874._--No further incident occurred worthy of special
+notice. At last the coast town of Bagamoio came in sight, and before
+many hours were over, one of Her Majesty's cruisers conveyed the Acting
+Consul, Captain Prideaux, from Zanzibar to the spot which the cort�ge
+had reached. Arrangements were quickly made for transporting the remains
+of Dr. Livingstone to the Island some thirty miles distant, and then it
+became perhaps rather too painfully plain to the men that their task was
+finished.
+
+One word on a subject which will commend itself to most before we close
+this long eventful history.
+
+We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, Nassick boys, and
+Shupanga canoemen, accompanied Dr. Livingstone when he started from
+Zanzibar in 1866 to enter upon his last discoveries: of all these, five
+only could answer to the roll-call as they handed over the dead body of
+their leader to his countrymen on the shore whither they had returned,
+and this after eight years' desperate service.
+
+Once more we repeat the names of these men. Susi and James Chuma have
+been sufficiently prominent throughout--hardly so perhaps has Amoda,
+their comrade ever since the Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abram
+and Mabruki, each with service to show from the time he left the Nassiok
+College with the Doctor in 1865. Nor must we forget Ntoa�ka and Halima,
+the two native girls of whom we have heard such a good character: they
+cast in their lot with the wanderers in Manyuema. It does seem strange
+to hear the men say that no sooner did they arrive at their journey's
+end than they were so far frowned out of notice, that not so much as a
+passage to the Island was offered them when their burden was borne away.
+We must hope that it is not too late--even for the sake of
+consistency--to put it on record that _whoever_ assisted Livingstone,
+whether white or black, has not been overlooked in England. Surely those
+with whom he spent his last years must not pass away into Africa again
+unrewarded, and lost to sight.
+
+Yes, a very great deal is owing to these five men, and we say it
+emphatically. If the nation has gratified a reasonable wish in learning
+all that concerns the last days on earth of a truly noble countryman and
+his wonderful enterprise, the means of doing so could never have been
+placed at our disposal but for the ready willingness which made Susi and
+Chuma determine, if possible, to render an account to some of those whom
+they had known as their master's old companions. If the Geographer finds
+before him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as Livingstone
+alone could record them, it is right and proper that he should feel the
+part these men have played in furnishing him with such valuable matter.
+For we repeat that nothing but such leadership and staunchness as that
+which organized the march home from Ilala, and distinguished it
+throughout, could have brought Livingstone's bones to our land or his
+last notes and maps to the outer world. To none does the feat seem so
+marvellous as to those who know Africa and the difficulties which must
+have beset both the first and the last in the enterprise. Thus in his
+death, not less than in his life, David Livingstone bore testimony to
+that goodwill and kindliness which exists in the heart of the African.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[37] The men consider it five days' march "only carrying a gun" from
+the Molilamo to the bank of the Luapula--this in rough reckoning, at
+the rate of native travelling, would give a distance of say 120 to 150
+miles.--ED.
+
+[38] This comparison was got at from the remarks made by Susi and
+Chuma at an agricultural show; they pointed out the resemblance borne
+by the shorthorns and by the Alderney bulls to several breeds near
+Lake Bemba.--ED.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David
+Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
+
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, vol II, edited by Horace Waller.
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873
+       Continued By A Narrative Of His Last Moments And Sufferings,
+              Obtained From His Faithful Servants Chuma And Susi
+
+Author: David Livingstone
+
+Editor: Horace Waller
+
+Release Date: November 8, 2005 [EBook #17024]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DAVID LIVINGSTON, II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+  <h2><a name="Page_-7" id="Page_-7"></a>THE LAST JOURNALS</h2>
+
+  <h3>OF</h3>
+
+  <h1>DAVID LIVINGSTONE,</h1>
+
+  <h3>IN CENTRAL AFRICA,</h3>
+
+  <h4>FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.</h4>
+
+  <h5>CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OF</h5>
+
+  <h3>HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS,</h3>
+
+  <h5>OBTAINED FROM</h5>
+
+  <h4>HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI,</h4>
+
+  <h2>BY HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,<br />
+  <span style="font-size: smaller">RECTOR OF TWYWELL,
+  NORTHAMPTON.</span></h2>
+
+  <h4>IN TWO VOLUMES.&mdash;VOL. II.<br />
+  <span style="font-size: smaller">[1869&ndash;1873]</span></h4>
+
+  <h5>WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS.</h5>
+
+  <h4>LONDON:<br />
+  JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br />
+  1874.</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece" />
+<img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="600" height="311" alt="Evening Ilala. 29 April, 1873." title="Evening Ilala. 29 April, 1873." />
+<b>Evening Ilala. 29 April, 1873.</b>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2><a name="Page_-5" id="Page_-5" />CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<p><a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS"><b>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</b></a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Reaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumb&eacute;. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moen&eacute;kuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumb&eacute;'s ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resum&eacute; of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a name="Page_-4" id="Page_-4" href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. &quot;A drop of
+    comfort.&quot; Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The &quot;Sassassa bird.&quot; The disease
+    &quot;Safura.&quot;</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Mer&eacute;r&eacute;. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarr&eacute;. Go&icirc;tre.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Part at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They &quot;want to
+    eat a white one.&quot; Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute;. Reaches the Lualaba</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute; on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomam&eacute;.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm, of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a name="Page_-3" id="Page_-3" href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusiz&eacute;. No outlet. &quot;Theoretical discovery&quot; of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyemb&eacute; with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game.
+    Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness
+    at reaching Unyanyemb&eacute;</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient Geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyamyembe. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir Samuel Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    Missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Short years in Buganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    <a name="Page_-2" id="Page_-2" />waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and Vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. High
+    mountains. Large Bay</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chitu&ntilde;ku&eacute;'s. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chitu&ntilde;ku&eacute;'s. At the chiefs mercy. Agreeably
+    surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march.
+    Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out to
+    find villages. Message to Chirubw&eacute;. An ant raid. Awaits news
+    from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of Bangweolo.
+    Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and Chuma sent as
+    envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at Matipa's islet.
+    Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit. Tries to go on to
+    Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a demonstration. Solution of
+    the transport difficulty. Susi and detachment sent to Kabinga's.
+    Extraordinary extent of flood. Reaches Kabinga's. An upset.
+    Crosses the Chambez&eacute;. The River Muanakazi. They separate into
+    companies by land and water. A disconsolate lion. Singular
+    caterpillars. Observations on fish. Coasting along the southern
+    flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER XII.</b></a>.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chuma's additional details. Great agony in his last illness.
+    Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill
+    of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses the Mohlamo
+    into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo's
+    village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last
+    night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account
+    <a name="Page_-1" id="Page_-1" />of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the men.
+    Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is dead.
+    Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the men
+    wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation of
+    the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyemb&eacute;. Chuma
+    meets Lieut. Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks</p></div>
+
+
+<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS" />ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+
+<h4 style="text-align: left">Full-page Illustrations.</h4>
+
+<p><a href="#frontispiece">1.</a> EVENING. ILALA. 29TH APRIL, 1873</p>
+<p><a href="#fp020">2.</a> UGUHA HEAD-DRESSES</p>
+<p><a href="#fp045">3.</a> CHUMA AND SUSI. (From a Photograph by MAULL &amp; Co.)</p>
+<p><a href="#fp052">4.</a> MANYUEMA HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS</p>
+<p><a href="#fp055">5.</a> PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG SOKO</p>
+<p><a href="#fp095">6.</a> A DANGEROUS PRIZE</p>
+<p><a href="#fp114">7.</a> FACSIMILE OF A PORTION OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNAL</p>
+<p><a href="#fp133">8.</a> THE MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEMA WOMEN AT NYANGWE</p>
+<p><a href="#fp146">9.</a> THE MANYUEMA AMBUSH</p>
+<p><a href="#fp268">10.</a> &quot;THE MAIN STREAM CAME UP TO SUSI'S MOUTH&quot;</p>
+<p><a href="#fp295">11.</a> THE LAST MILES OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S TRAVELS</p>
+<p><a href="#fp296">12.</a> FISH EAGLE ON HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP</p>
+<p><a href="#fp299">13.</a> THE LAST ENTRY IN DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNALS</p>
+<p><a href="#fp315">14.</a> TEMPORARY VILLAGE IN WHICH DR. LIVINGSTONE'S BODY WAS PREPARED</p>
+
+<h4 style="text-align: left">Smaller Illustrations.</h4>
+
+<p><a href="#p013">1.</a> LINES OF GREEN SCUM ON LAKE TANGANYIKA</p>
+<p><a href="#p030">2.</a> MODE OF CATCHING ANTS</p>
+<p><a href="#p284">3.</a> DR. LIVINGSTONE'S MOSQUITO CURTAIN</p>
+<p><a href="#p286">4.</a> MATIPA AND HIS WIFE</p>
+<p><a href="#p323">5.</a> AN OLD SERVANT DESTROYED</p>
+<p><a href="#p325">6.</a> KAWEND&Eacute; SURGERY</p>
+<p><a href="#map">MAP</a> OF CONJECTURAL GEOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM DR. LIVINGSTONE'S NOTES</p>
+<p>[<a href="images/map-fr.jpg">Full-resolution</a> image of this map]</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I" /><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1" />CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Beaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumb&eacute;. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moen&eacute;kuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>[The new year opened badly enough, and from letters he wrote
+subsequently concerning the illness which now attacked him, we gather
+that it left evils behind, from which he never quite recovered. The
+following entries were made after he regained sufficient strength, but
+we see how short they necessarily were, and what labour it was to make
+the jottings which relate to his progress towards the western shore of
+Lake Tanganyika. He was not able at any time during this seizure to
+continue the minute maps of the country in his pocket-books, which for
+the first time fail here.]</p>
+
+<p><i>1st January, 1869.</i>&mdash;I have been wet times without number, but the
+wetting of yesterday was once too often: I felt <a name="Page_2" id="Page_2" />very ill, but fearing
+that the Lofuko might flood, I resolved to cross it. Cold up to the
+waist, which made me worse, but I went on for 2-1/2 hours E.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd January, 1869.</i>&mdash;I marched one hour, but found I was too ill to go
+further. Moving is always good in fever; now I had a pain in the chest,
+and rust of iron sputa: my lungs, my strongest part, were thus affected.
+We crossed a rill and built sheds, but I lost count of the days of the
+week and month after this. Very ill all over.</p>
+
+<p><i>About 7th January, 1869.</i>&mdash;Cannot walk: Pneumonia of right lung, and I
+cough all day and all night: sputa rust of iron and bloody: distressing
+weakness. Ideas flow through the mind with great rapidity and vividness,
+in groups of twos and threes: if I look at any piece of wood, the bark
+seems covered over with figures and faces of men, and they remain,
+though I look away and turn to the same spot again. I saw myself lying
+dead in the way to Ujiji, and all the letters I expected there useless.
+When I think of my children and friends, the lines ring through my head
+perpetually:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;I shall look into your faces,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And listen to what you say,<br /></span>
+<span>And be often very near you<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">When you think I'm far away.&quot;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Mohamad Bogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who cupped my chest.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th and 9th January, 1869.</i>&mdash;Mohamad Bogharib offered to carry me. I am
+so weak I can scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper now&mdash;a pretty but
+steeply-undulating country. This is the first time in my life I have
+been carried in illness, but I cannot raise myself to the sitting
+posture. No food except a little gruel. Great distress in coughing all
+night long; feet swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on a
+kitanda or frame, like a cot; carried eight hours one day. Then sleep in
+a deep ravine. Next day six hours, over volcanic tufa; very rough. We
+<a name="Page_3" id="Page_3" />seem near the brim of Tanganyika. Sixteen days of illness. May be 23rd
+of January; it is 5th of lunar month. Country very undulating; it is
+perpetually up and down. Soil red, and rich knolls of every size and
+form. Trees few. Erythrinas abound; so do elephants. Carried eight hours
+yesterday to a chief's village. Small sharp thorns hurt the men's feet,
+and so does the roughness of the ground. Though there is so much slope,
+water does not run quickly off Marungu. A compact mountain-range flanks
+the undulating country through which we passed, and may stop the water
+flowing. Mohamad Bogharib is very kind to me in my extreme weakness; but
+carriage is painful; head down and feet up alternates with feet down and
+head up; jolted up and down and sideways&mdash;changing shoulders involves a
+toss from one side to the other of the kitanda. The sun is vertical,
+blistering any part of the skin exposed, and I try to shelter my face
+and head as well as I can with a bunch of leaves, but it is dreadfully
+fatiguing in my weakness.</p>
+
+<p>I had a severe relapse after a very hot day. Mohamad gave me medicines;
+one was a sharp purgative, the others intended for the cure of the
+cough.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th February, 1869.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Tanganyika. Parra is the name of the
+land at the confluence of the River Lofuko: Syde bin Habib had two or
+three large canoes at this place, our beads were nearly done, so I sent
+to Syde to say that all the Arabs had served me except himself. Thani
+bin Suellim by his letter was anxious to send a canoe as soon as I
+reached the Lake, and the only service I wanted of Syde was to inform
+Thani, by one of his canoes, that I was here very ill, and if I did not
+get to Ujiji to get proper food and medicine I should die. Thani would
+send a canoe as soon as he knew of my arrival I was sure: he replied
+that he too would serve me: and sent some flour and two fowls: he would
+come in two days and see what he could do as to canoes.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4" /><i>15th February, 1869.</i>&mdash;The cough and chest pain diminished, and I feel
+thankful; my body is greatly emaciated. Syde came to-day, and is
+favourable to sending me up to Ujiji. Thanks to the Great Father in
+Heaven.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th February, 1869.</i>&mdash;We had remarkably little rain these two months.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th February, 1869.</i>&mdash;I extracted twenty <i>Funy&eacute;s</i>, an insect like a
+maggot, whose eggs had been inserted on my having been put into an old
+house infested by them; as they enlarge they stir about and impart a
+stinging sensation; if disturbed, the head is drawn in a little. When a
+poultice is put on they seem obliged to come out possibly from want of
+air: they can be pressed out, but the large pimple in which they live is
+painful; they were chiefly in my limbs.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th February, 1869.</i>&mdash;Embark, and sleep at Katonga after seven hours'
+paddling.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th February, 1869.</i>&mdash;Went 1-3/4 hour to Bondo or Thembw&eacute; to buy food.
+Shore very rough, like shores near Capr&eacute;ra, but here all is covered with
+vegetation. We were to cross to Kabogo, a large mass of mountains on the
+eastern side, but the wind was too high.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th February, 1869.</i>&mdash;Syde sent food back to his slaves.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd March, 1869.</i>&mdash;Waves still high, so we got off only on <i>3rd</i> at 1h.
+30m. A.M. 6-1/2 hours, and came to M. Bogharib, who cooked bountifully.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;5 P.M. Off to Toloka Bay&mdash;three hours; left at 6
+A.M., and came, in four hours, to Uguha, which is on the west side of
+Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;Left at 6 P.M., and went on till two canoes ran on
+rocks in the way to Kasanga islet. Rounded a point of land, and made for
+Kasanga with a storm in our teeth; fourteen hours in all. We were
+received by a young Arab Muscat, who dined us sumptuously at noon: there
+are seventeen islets in the Kasanga group.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5" /><i>8th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;On Kasanga islet. Cochin-China fowls<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1" /><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and Muscovy
+ducks appear, and plenty of a small milkless breed of goats. Tanganyika
+has many deep bays running in four or five miles; they are choked up
+with aquatic vegetation, through which canoes can scarcely be propelled.
+When the bay has a small rivulet at its head, the water in the bay is
+decidedly brackish, though the rivulet be fresh, it made the Zanzibar
+people remark on the Lake water, &quot;It is like that we get near the
+sea-shore&mdash;a little salt;&quot; but as soon as we get out of the shut-in bay
+or lagoon into the Lake proper the water is quite sweet, and shows that
+a current flows through the middle of the Lake lengthways.</p>
+
+<p>Patience was never more needed than now: I am near Ujiji, but the slaves
+who paddle are tired, and no wonder; they keep up a roaring song all
+through their work, night and day. I expect to get medicine, food, and
+milk at Ujiji, but dawdle and do nothing. I have a good appetite, and
+sleep well; these are the favourable symptoms; but am dreadfully thin,
+bowels irregular, and I have no medicine. Sputa increases; hope to hold
+out to Ujiji. Cough worse. Hope to go to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;The Whydah birds have at present light breasts and
+dark necks. Zahor is the name of our young Arab host.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;Go over to Kibiz&eacute; islet, 1-1/2 hour from Kasanga.
+Great care is taken not to encounter foul weather; we go a little way,
+then wait for fair wind in crossing to east side of Lake.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;People of Kibiz&eacute; dress like those in Rua, with
+cloth made of the Muab&eacute; or wild-date leaves; the <a name="Page_6" id="Page_6" />same is used in
+Madagascar for the &quot;lamba.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2" /><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Their hair is collected up to the top of
+the head.</p>
+
+<p>From Kibiz&eacute; islet to Kabogo River on east side of Lake ten hours; sleep
+there. Syde slipped past us at night, but we made up to him in four
+hours next morning.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;At Rombol&eacute;; we sleep, then on.</p>
+
+<p>[At last he reached the great Arab settlement at Ujiji, on the eastern
+shore of Tanganyika. It was his first visit, but he had arranged that
+supplies should be forwarded thither by caravans bound inland from
+Zanzibar. Most unfortunately his goods were made away with in all
+directions&mdash;not only on this, but on several other occasions. The
+disappointment to a man shattered in health, and craving for letters and
+stores, must have been severe indeed.]</p>
+
+<p><i>14th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;Go past Malagarasi River, and reach Ujiji in 3-1/2
+hours. Found Haji Thani's agent in charge of my remaining goods.
+Medicines, wine, and cheese had been left at Unyanyemb&eacute;, thirteen days
+east of this. Milk not to be had, as the cows had not calved, but a
+present of Assam tea from Mr. Black, the Inspector of the Peninsular and
+Oriental Company's affairs, had come from Calcutta, besides my own
+coffee and a little sugar. I bought butter; two large pots are sold for
+two fathoms of blue calico, and four-year-old flour, with which we made
+bread. I found great benefit from the tea and coffee, and still more
+from flannel to the skin.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;Took account of all the goods left by the
+plunderer; sixty-two out of eighty pieces of cloth (each of twenty-four
+yards) were stolen, and most of my best beads. The road to Unyemb&eacute;<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3" /><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> is
+blocked up by a Mazitu or <a name="Page_7" id="Page_7" />Watuta war, so I must wait till the Governor
+there gets an opportunity to send them. The Musa sent with the buffaloes
+is a genuine specimen of the ill-conditioned, English-hating Arab. I was
+accosted on arriving by, &quot;You must give me five dollars a month for all
+my time;&quot; this though he had brought nothing&mdash;the buffaloes all
+died&mdash;and did nothing but receive stolen goods. I tried to make use of
+him to go a mile every second day for milk, but he shammed sickness so
+often on that day I had to get another to go; then he made a regular
+practice of coming into my house, watching what my two attendants were
+doing, and going about the village with distorted statements against
+them.</p>
+
+<p>I clothed him, but he tried to make bad blood between the respectable
+Arab who supplied me with milk and myself, telling him that I abused
+him, and then he would come back, saying that he abused me! I can
+account for his conduct only by attributing it to that which we call
+ill-conditioned: I had to expel him from the house.</p>
+
+<p>I repaired a house to keep out the rain, and on the <i>23rd</i> moved into
+it. I gave our Kasanga host a cloth and blanket; he is ill of pneumonia
+of both lungs.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th March, 1869.</i>&mdash;Flannel to the skin and tea very beneficial in the
+cure of my disease; my cough has ceased, and I walk half a mile. I am
+writing letters for home.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th April, 1869.</i>&mdash;Visited Moen&eacute; Mokaia, who sent me two fowls and
+rice; gave him two cloths. He added a sheep.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th April, 1869.</i>&mdash;Employed Suleyman to write notes to Governor of
+Unyemb&eacute;, Syde bin Salem Burashid, to make inquiries about the theft of
+my goods, as I meant to apply to Syed Majid, and wished to speak truly
+about his man Musa bin Salum, the chief depredator.</p>
+
+<p>Wrote also to Thani for boat and crew to go down Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>Syde bin Habib refused to allow his men to carry my <a name="Page_8" id="Page_8" />letters to the
+coast; as he suspected that I would write about his doings in Rua.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th April, 1869.</i>&mdash;Syde had three canoes smashed in coming up past
+Thembw&eacute;; the wind and waves drove them on the rocks, and two were
+totally destroyed: they are heavy unmanageable craft, and at the mercy
+of any storm if they cannot get into a shut bay, behind the reeds and
+aquatic vegetation. One of the wrecks is said to have been worth 200
+dollars (40<i>l.</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The season called Masika commenced this month with the usual rolling
+thunder, and more rain than in the month preceding.</p>
+
+<p>I have been busy writing letters home, and finished forty-two, which in
+some measure will make up for my long silence. The Ujijians are
+unwilling to carry my letters, because, they say, Seyed Majid will order
+the bearer to return with others: he may say, &quot;You know where he is, go
+back to him,&quot; but I suspect they fear my exposure of their ways more
+than anything else.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4" /><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>16th May, 1869.</i>&mdash;Thani bin Suellim sent me a note yesterday to say
+that he would be here in two days, or say three; he seems the most
+active of the Ujijians, and I trust will help me to get a canoe and men.</p>
+
+<p>The malachite at Kata&ntilde;ga is loosened by fire, then dug out of four
+hills: four manehs of the ore yield one maneh of copper, but those who
+cultivate the soil get more wealth than those who mine the copper.</p>
+
+<p>[No change of purpose was allowed to grow out of sickness and
+disappointment. Here and there, as in the words written on the next day,
+we find Livingstone again with his back turned to the coast and gazing
+towards the land of the Manyuema and the great rivers reported there.]
+<a name="Page_9" id="Page_9" /><i>17th May, 1869.</i>&mdash;Syde bin Habib arrived to-day with his cargo of
+copper and slaves. I have to change house again, and wish I were away,
+now that I am getting stronger. Attendants arrive from Parra or Mparra.</p>
+
+<p>[The old slave-dealer, whom he met at Casembe's, and who seems to have
+been set at liberty through Livingstone's instrumentality, arrives at
+Ujiji at last.]</p>
+
+<p><i>18th May, 1869.</i>&mdash;Mohamad bin Saleh arrived to-day. He left this when
+comparatively young, and is now well advanced in years.</p>
+
+<p>The Bakatala at Lualaba West killed Salem bin Habib. <i>Mem.</i>&mdash;Keep clear
+of them. Makwamba is one of the chiefs of the rock-dwellers, Ngulu is
+another, and Masika-Kitobw&eacute; on to Baluba. Sef attached Kilolo N'tambw&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th May, 1869.</i>&mdash;The emancipation of our West-Indian slaves was the
+work of but a small number of the people of England&mdash;the philanthropists
+and all the more advanced thinkers of the age. Numerically they were a
+very small minority of the population, and powerful only from the
+superior abilities of the leading men, and from having the right, the
+true, and just on their side. Of the rest of the population an immense
+number were the indifferent, who had no sympathies to spare for any
+beyond their own fireside circles. In the course of time sensation
+writers came up on the surface of society, and by way of originality
+they condemned almost every measure and person of the past.
+&quot;Emancipation was a mistake;&quot; and these fast writers drew along with
+them a large body, who would fain be slaveholders themselves. We must
+never lose sight of the fact that though the majority perhaps are on the
+side of freedom, large numbers of Englishmen are not slaveholders only
+because the law forbids the practice. In this proclivity we see a great
+part of the reason of the frantic sympathy of thousands with the rebels
+in the great Black war in America. <a name="Page_10" id="Page_10" />It is true that we do sympathize
+with brave men, though we may not approve of the objects for which they
+fight. We admired Stonewall Jackson as a modern type of Cromwell's
+Ironsides; and we praised Lee for his generalship, which, after all, was
+chiefly conspicuous by the absence of commanding abilities in his
+opponents, but, unquestionably, there existed besides an eager desire
+that slaveocracy might prosper, and the Negro go to the wall. The
+would-be slaveholders showed their leanings unmistakably in reference to
+the Jamaica outbreak; and many a would-be Colonel Hobbs, in lack of
+revolvers, dipped his pen in gall and railed against all Niggers who
+could not be made slaves. We wonder what they thought of their hero,
+when informed that, for very shame at what he had done and written, he
+had rushed unbidden out of the world.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th May, 1869.</i>&mdash;Thani bin Suellim came from Unyanyemb&eacute; on the 20th.
+He is a slave who has risen to freedom and influence; he has a
+disagreeable outward squint of the right eye, teeth protruding from the
+averted lips, is light-coloured, and of the nervous type of African. He
+brought two light boxes from Unyemb&eacute;, and charged six fathoms for one
+and eight fathoms for the other, though the carriage of both had been
+paid for at Zanzibar. When I paid him he tried to steal, and succeeded
+with one cloth by slipping it into the hands of a slave. I gave him two
+cloths and a double blanket as a present. He discovered afterwards what
+he knew before, that all had been injured by the wet on the way here,
+and sent two back openly, which all saw to be an insult. He asked a
+little coffee, and I gave a plateful; and he even sent again for more
+coffee after I had seen reason to resent his sending back my present. I
+replied, &quot;He won't send coffee back, for I shall give him none.&quot; In
+revenge he sends round to warn all the Ujijians against taking my
+letters to the coast; this is in accordance with their previous conduct,
+for, like the Kilwa <a name="Page_11" id="Page_11" />people on the road to Nyassa, they have refused to
+carry my correspondence.</p>
+
+<p>This is a den of the worst kind of slave-traders; those whom I met in
+Urungu and Itawa were gentlemen slavers: the Ujiji slavers, like the
+Kilwa and Portuguese, are the vilest of the vile. It is not a trade, but
+a system of consecutive murders; they go to plunder and kidnap, and
+every trading trip is nothing but a foray. Moen&eacute; Mokaia, the headman of
+this place, sent canoes through to Nzig&eacute;, and his people, feeling their
+prowess among men ignorant of guns, made a regular assault but were
+repulsed, and the whole, twenty in number, were killed. Moen&eacute; Mokaia is
+now negotiating with Syde bin Habib to go and revenge this, for so much
+ivory, and all he can get besides. Syde, by trying to revenge the death
+of Salem bin Habib, his brother, on the Bakatala, has blocked up one
+part of the country against me, and will probably block Nzig&eacute;, for I
+cannot get a message sent to Chowamb&eacute; by anyone, and may have to go to
+Karagw&eacute; on foot, and then from Rumanyika down to this water.</p>
+
+<p>[In reference to the above we may add that there is a vocabulary of
+Masai words at the end of a memorandum-book. Livingstone compiled this
+with the idea that it would prove useful on his way towards the coast,
+should he eventually pass through the Masai country. No doubt some of
+the Arabs or their slaves knew the language, and assisted him at his
+work.]</p>
+
+<p><i>29th May, 1869.</i>&mdash;Many people went off to Unyemb&eacute;, and their houses
+were untenanted; I wished one, as I was in a lean-to of Zahor's, but the
+two headmen tried to secure the rent for themselves, and were defeated
+by Mohamad bin Saleh. I took my packet of letters to Thani, and gave two
+cloths and four bunches of beads to the man who was to take them to
+Unyanyemb&eacute;; an hour afterwards, letters, <a name="Page_12" id="Page_12" />cloths, and beads were
+returned: Thani said he was afraid of English letters; he did not know
+what was inside. I had sewed them up in a piece of canvas, that was
+suspicious, and he would call all the great men of Ujiji and ask them if
+it would be safe to take them; if they assented he would call for the
+letters, if not he would not send them. I told Mohamad bin Saleh, and he
+said to Thani that he and I were men of the Government, and orders had
+come from Syed Majid to treat me with all respect: was this conduct
+respectful? Thani then sent for the packet, but whether it will reach
+Zanzibar I am doubtful. I gave the rent to the owner of the house and
+went into it on 31st May. They are nearly all miserable Suaheli at
+Ujiji, and have neither the manners nor the sense of Arabs.</p>
+
+<p>[We see in the next few lines how satisfied Livingstone was concerning
+the current in the Lake: he almost wishes to call Tanganyika <i>a river</i>.
+Here then is a problem left for the future explorer to determine.
+Although the Doctor proved by experiments during his lengthy stay at
+Ujiji that the set is towards the north, his two men get over the
+difficulty thus: &quot;If you blow upon the surface of a basin of water on
+one side, you will cause the water at last to revolve round and round;
+so with Tanganyika, the prevailing winds produce a similar
+circulation.&quot;. They feel certain there is no outlet, because at one time
+or another they virtually completed the survey of the coast line and
+listened to native testimony besides. How the phenomenon of sweet water
+is to be accounted for we do not pretend to say. The reader will see
+further on that Livingstone grapples with the difficulty which this Lake
+affords, and propounds an exceedingly clever theory.]</p>
+
+<p>Tanganyika has encroached on the Ujiji side upwards of a mile, and the
+bank, which was in the memory of men now living, garden ground, is
+covered with about two fathoms of <a name="Page_13" id="Page_13" />water: in this Tanganyika resembles
+most other rivers in this country, as the Upper Zambesi for instance,
+which in the Barots&eacute; country has been wearing eastwards for the last
+thirty years: this Lake, or river, has worn eastwards too.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st June, 1869.</i>&mdash;I am thankful to feel getting strong again, and wish
+to go down Tanganyika, but cannot get men: two months must elapse ere we
+can face the long grass and superabundant water in the way to Manyuema.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 314px;"><a name="p013" id="p013" />
+<img src="images/p013.png" width="314" height="216" alt="Lines of Green Scum" title="Lines of Green Scum" />
+<b>Lines of Green Scum</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>The green scum which forms on still water in this country is of
+vegetable origin&mdash;conferv&aelig;. When the rains fall they swell the lagoons,
+and the scum is swept into the Lake; here it is borne along by the
+current from south to north, and arranged in long lines, which bend from
+side to side as the water flows, but always N.N.W. or N.N.E., and not
+driven, as here, by the winds, as plants floating above the level of the
+water would be.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th June, 1869.</i>&mdash;It is remarkable that all the Ujiji Arabs who have
+any opinion on the subject, believe that all the water in the north, and
+all the water in the south, too, flows into Tanganyika, but where it
+then goes they have no conjecture. They assert, as a matter of fact,
+that Tanganyika, Usig&eacute; water, and Loanda, are one and the same piece of
+river.</p>
+
+<p>Thani, on being applied to for men and a canoe to take me down this line
+of drainage, consented, but let me know that his people would go no
+further than Uvira, and then return. He subsequently said Usig&eacute;, but I
+wished to know what I was to do when left at the very point where I
+should be most in need. He replied, in his silly way, &quot;My people are
+afraid; they won't go further; get country people,&quot; &amp;c. Moenegher&eacute; sent
+men to Loanda to force a passage through, but his people were repulsed
+and twenty killed.</p>
+
+<p>Three men came yesterday from Mokamba, the greatest <a name="Page_14" id="Page_14" />chief in Usig&eacute;,
+with four tusks as a present to his friend Moenegher&eacute;, and asking for
+canoes to be sent down to the end of Urundi country to bring butter and
+other things, which the three men could not bring: this seems an
+opening, for Mokamba being Moenegher&eacute;'s friend I shall prefer paying
+Moenegher&eacute; for a canoe to being dependent on Thani's skulkers. If the
+way beyond Mokamba is blocked up by the fatal skirmish referred to, I
+can go from Mokamba to Rumanyika, three or four or more days distant,
+and get guides from him to lead me back to the main river beyond Loanda,
+and by this plan only three days of the stream will be passed over
+unvisited. Thani would evidently like to receive the payment, but
+without securing to me the object for which I pay. He is a poor thing, a
+slaveling: Syed Majid, Sheikh Suleiman, and Koroj&eacute;, have all written to
+him, urging an assisting deportment in vain: I never see him but he begs
+something, and gives nothing, I suppose he expects me to beg from him. I
+shall be guided by Moenegher&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot find anyone who knows where the outflow of the unvisited Lake
+S.W. of this goes; some think that it goes to the Western Ocean, or, I
+should say, the Congo. Mohamad Bogharib goes in a month to Manyuema, but
+if matters turn out as I wish, I may explore this Tanganyika line first.
+One who has been in Manyuema three times, and was of the first party
+that ever went there, says that the Manyuema are not cannibals, but a
+tribe west of them eats some parts of the bodies of those slain in war.
+Some people south of Moen&eacute;kuss<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5" /><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>, chief of Manyuema, build strong clay
+houses.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd June, 1869.</i>&mdash;After listening to a great deal of talk I have come
+to the conclusion that I had better not go with Moenegher&eacute;'s people to
+Mokamba. I see that it is to be a mulcting, <a name="Page_15" id="Page_15" />as in Speke's case: I am to
+give largely, though I am not thereby assured of getting down the river.
+They say, &quot;You must give much, because you are a great man: Mokamba will
+say so&quot;&mdash;though Mokamba knows nothing about me! It is uncertain whether
+I can get down through by Loanda, and great risk would be run in going
+to those who cut off the party of Moenegher&eacute;, so I have come to the
+conclusion that it will be better for me to go to Manyuema about a
+fortnight hence, and, if possible, trace down the western arm of the
+Nile to the north&mdash;if this arm is indeed that of the Nile, and not of
+the Congo. Nobody here knows anything about it, or, indeed, about the
+eastern or Tanganyika line either; they all confess that they have but
+one question in their minds in going anywhere, they ask for ivory and
+for nothing else, and each trip ends as a foray. Moenegher&eacute;'s last trip
+ended disastrously, twenty-six of his men being cut off; in extenuation
+he says that it was not his war but Mokamba's: he wished to be allowed
+to go down through Loanda, and as the people in front of Mokamba and
+Usig&eacute; own his supremacy, he said, &quot;Send your force with mine and let us
+open the way,&quot; so they went on land and were killed. An attempt was made
+to induce Syde bin Habib to clear the way, and be paid in ivory, but
+Syde likes to battle with those who will soon run away and leave the
+spoil to him.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyuema are said to be friendly where they have not been attacked
+by Arabs: a great chief is reported as living on a large river flowing
+northwards, I hope to make my way to him, and I feel exhilarated at the
+thought of getting among people not spoiled by contact with Arab
+traders. I would not hesitate to run the risk of getting through Loanda,
+the continuation of Usig&eacute; beyond Mokamba's, had blood not been shed so
+very recently there; but it would at present be a great danger, and to
+explore some sixty miles of the Tanganyika line only. If I return
+<a name="Page_16" id="Page_16" />hither from Manyuema my goods and fresh men from Zanzibar will have
+arrived, and I shall be better able to judge as to the course to be
+pursued after that. Mokamba is about twenty, miles beyond Uvira; the
+scene of Moenegher&eacute;'s defeat, is ten miles beyond Mokamba; so the
+unexplored part cannot be over sixty miles, say thirty if we take
+Baker's estimate of the southing of his water to be near the truth.</p>
+
+<p>Salem or Palamotto told me that he was sent for by a headman near to
+this to fight his brother for him: he went and demanded prepayment; then
+the brother sent him three tusks to refrain: Salem took them and came
+home. The Africans have had hard measures meted out to them in the
+world's history!</p>
+
+<p><i>28th June, 1869.</i>&mdash;The current in Tanganyika is well marked when the
+lighter-coloured water of a river flows in and does not at once mix&mdash;the
+Luish&eacute; at Ujiji is a good example, and it shows by large light greenish
+patches on the surface a current of nearly a mile an hour north. It
+begins to flow about February, and continues running north till November
+or December. Evaporation on 300 miles of the south is then at its
+strongest, and water begins to flow gently south till arrested by the
+flood of the great rains there, which takes place in February and March.
+There is, it seems, a reflux for about three months in each year, flow
+and reflow being the effect of the rains and evaporation on a lacustrine
+river of some three hundred miles in length lying south of the equator.
+The flow northwards I have myself observed, that again southwards rests
+on native testimony, and it was elicited from the Arabs by pointing out
+the northern current: they attributed the southern current to the effect
+of the wind, which they say then blows south. Being cooled by the rains,
+it comes south into the hot valley of this great Riverein Lake, or
+lacustrine river.</p>
+
+<p>In going to Moen&eacute;kuss, the paramount chief of the Man<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17" />yuema, forty days
+are required. The headmen of trading parties remain with this chief (who
+is said by all to be a very good man), and send their people out in all
+directions to trade. Moenemogaia says that in going due north from
+Moen&eacute;kuss they come to a large river, the Robumba, which flows into and
+is the Luama, and that this again joins the Lualaba, which retains its
+name after flowing with the Lufira and Lofu into the still unvisited
+Lake S.S.W. of this: it goes thence due north, probably into Mr. Baker's
+part of the eastern branch of the Nile. When I have gone as far north
+along Lualaba as I can this year, I shall be able to judge as to the
+course I ought to take after receiving my goods and men from Zanzibar,
+and may the Highest direct me, so that I may finish creditably the work
+I have undertaken. I propose to start for Manyuema on the 3rd July.</p>
+
+<p>The dagala or nsip&eacute;, a small fish caught in great numbers in every
+flowing water, and very like whitebait, is said to emit its eggs by the
+mouth, and these immediately burst and the young fish manages for
+itself. The dagala never becomes larger than two or three inches in
+length. Some, putrefied, are bitter, as if the bile were in them in a
+good quantity. I have eaten them in Lunda of a pungent bitter taste,
+probably arising from the food on which the fish feeds. Men say that
+they have seen the eggs kept in the sides of the mouth till ready to go
+off as independent fishes. The ngh&eacute;d&eacute;-d&eacute;g&eacute;, a species of perch, and
+another, the ndusi, are said to do the same. The Arabs imagine that fish
+in general fall from the skies, but they except the shark, because they
+can see the young when it is cut open.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th July, 1869.</i>&mdash;After a great deal of delay and trouble about a
+canoe, we got one from Habee for ten dotis or forty yards of calico, and
+a doti or four yards to each of nine paddlers to bring the vessel back.
+Thani and Zahor blamed me for not taking their canoes for nothing; but
+they took good care not to give them, but made vague offers, which
+<a name="Page_18" id="Page_18" />meant, &quot;We want much higher pay for our dhows than Arabs generally
+get:&quot; they showed such an intention to fleece me that I was glad to get
+out of their power, and save the few goods I had. I went a few miles,
+when two strangers I had allowed to embark (from being under obligations
+to their masters), worked against each other: so I had to let one land,
+and but for his master would have dismissed the other: I had to send an
+apology to the landed man's master for politeness' sake.</p>
+
+<p>[It is necessary to say a few words here, so unostentatiously does
+Livingstone introduce this new series of explorations to the reader. The
+Manyuema country, for which he set out on the 12th of July, 1869, was
+hitherto unknown. As we follow him we shall see that in almost every
+respect both the face of the country and the people differ from other
+regions lying nearer to the East Coast. It appears that the Arabs had an
+inkling of the vast quantities of ivory which might be procured there,
+and Livingstone went into the new field with the foremost of those
+hordes of Ujijian traders who, in all probability, will eventually
+destroy tribe after tribe by slave-trading and pillage, as they have
+done in so many other regions.]</p>
+
+<p>Off at 6 A.M., and passed the mouth of the Luish&eacute;, in Kibw&eacute; Bay; 3 1/2
+hours took us to Rombola or Lombola, where all the building wood of
+Ujiji is cut.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th July, 1869.</i>&mdash;Left at 1.30 A.M., and pulled 7 1/2 hours to the
+left bank of the Malagarasi River. We cannot go by day, because about 11
+A.M. a south-west wind commences to blow, which the heavy canoes cannot
+face; it often begins earlier or later, according to the phases of the
+moon. An east wind blows from sunrise till 10 or 11 A.M., and the
+south-west begins. The Malagarasi is of considerable size at its
+confluence, and has a large islet covered with eschinomena, or pith hat
+material, growing in its way.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19" />Were it not for the current Tanganyika would be covered with green scum
+now rolling away in miles of length and breadth to the north; it would
+also be salt like its shut-in bays. The water has now fallen two feet
+perpendicularly. It took us twelve hours to ascend to the Malagarasi
+River from Ujiji, and only seven to go down that distance. Prodigious
+quantities of conferv&aelig; pass us day and night in slow majestic flow. It
+is called Shuar&eacute;. But for the current Tanganyika would be covered with
+&quot;Tikatika&quot; too, like Victoria Nyanza.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th July, 1869.</i>&mdash;Off at 3.15 A.M., and in five hours reached Kabogo
+Eiver; from this point the crossing is always accomplished: it is about
+thirty miles broad. Tried to get off at 6 P.M., but after two miles the
+south wind blew, and as it is a dangerous wind and the usual one in
+storms, the men insisted on coming back, for the wind, having free
+scope along the entire southern length of Tanganyika, raises waves
+perilous to their heavy craft; after this the clouds cleared all away,
+and the wind died off too; the full moon shone brightly, and this is
+usually accompanied by calm weather here. Storms occur at new moon most
+frequently.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th July, 1869.</i>&mdash;Sounded in dark water opposite the high fountain
+Kabogo, 326 fathoms, but my line broke in coming up, and we did not see
+the armed end of the sounding lead with sand or mud on it: this is 1965
+feet.</p>
+
+<p>People awaking in fright utter most unearthly yells, and they are joined
+in them by all who sleep near. The first imagines himself seized by a
+wild beast, the rest roar because they hear him doing it: this indicates
+the extreme of helpless terror.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th July, 1869.</i>&mdash;After pulling all night we arrived at some islands
+and cooked breakfast, then we went on to Kaseng&euml; islet on their south,
+and came up to Mohamad Bogharib, who had come from Tongw&eacute;, and intended
+to go to Manyuema. We cross over to the mainland, that is, to the
+western shore <a name="Page_20" id="Page_20" />of the Lake, about 300 yards off, to begin our journey on
+the 21st. Lunars on 20th. Delay to prepare food for journey. Lunars
+again 22nd.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fp020" id="fp020" />
+<img src="images/fp020.jpg" width="400" height="660" alt="Uguha Head-dresses" title="Uguha Head-dresses" />
+<b>Uguha Head-dresses</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>A strong wind from the East to-day. A current sweeps round this islet
+Kis&eacute;ng&eacute; from N.E. to S.E., and carries trees and duckweed at more than
+a mile an hour in spite of the breeze blowing across it to the West. The
+wind blowing along the Lake either way raises up water, and in a calm it
+returns, off the shore. Sometimes it causes the current to go
+southwards. Tanganyika narrows at Uvira or Vira, and goes out of sight
+among the mountains there; then it appears as a waterfall into the Lake
+of Quando seen by Banyamwezi.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd July, 1869.</i>&mdash;I gave a cloth to be kept for Kasanga, the chief of
+Kaseng&eacute;, who has gone to fight with the people of Goma.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st August, 1869.</i>&mdash;Mohamad killed a kid as a sort of sacrifice, and
+they pray to Hadrajee before eating it. The cookery is of their very
+best, and I always get a share; I tell them that I like the cookery, but
+not the prayers, and it is taken in good part.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd August, 1869.</i>&mdash;We embarked from the islet and got over to the
+mainland, and slept in a hooked-thorn copse, with a species of black
+pepper plant, which we found near the top of Mount Zomba, in the
+Manganja country,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6" /><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> in our vicinity; it shows humidity of climate.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd August, 1869.</i>&mdash;Marched 3-1/4 hours south, along Tanganyika, in a
+very undulating country; very fatiguing in my weakness. Passed many
+screw-palms, and slept at Lobamba village.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;A relative of Kasanga engaged to act as our guide,
+so we remained waiting for him, and employed a Banyamwezi smith to make
+copper balls with some bars of that metal presented by Syde bin Habib. A
+lamb was<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21" />stolen, and all declared that the deed must have been done by
+Banyamwezi. &quot;At Guha people never steal,&quot; and I believe this is true.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;The guide having arrived, we marched 2-1/4 hours
+west and crossed the River Logumba, about forty yards broad and knee
+deep, with a rapid current between deep cut banks; it rises in the
+western Kabogo range, and flows about S.W. into Tanganyika. Much dura or
+<i>Holcus sorghum</i> is cultivated on the rich alluvial soil on its banks by
+the Guha people.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;West through open forest; very undulating, and the
+path full of angular fragments of quartz. We see mountains in the
+distance.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th-10th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;Westwards to Makhato's village, and met a
+company of natives beating a drum as they came near; this is the peace
+signal; if war is meant the attack is quiet and stealthy. There are
+plenty of Masuko trees laden with fruit, but unripe. It is cold at
+night, but dry, and the people sleep with only a fence at their heads,
+but I have a shed built at every camp as a protection for the loads, and
+sleep in it.</p>
+
+<p>Any ascent, though gentle, makes me blow since the attack of pneumonia;
+if it is inclined to an angle of 45&deg;, 100 or 150 yards make me stop to
+pant in distress.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;Came to a village of Ba Rua, surrounded by hills
+of some 200 feet above the plain; trees sparse.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th-13th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;At villages of Mekh&eacute;to. Guha people. Remain
+to buy and prepare food, and because many are sick.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;West and by north through much forest reach
+Kalalib&eacute;b&eacute;; buffalo killed.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;To a high mountain, Golu or Gulu, and sleep at its
+base.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;Cross two rills flowing into River Mgoluy&eacute;. Kagoya
+and Moish&eacute; flow into Lobumba.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22" /><i>19th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;To the River Lobumba, forty-five yards Avide,
+thigh deep, and rapid current. Logumba and Lobumba are both from Kabogo
+Mounts: one goes into Tanganyika, and the other, or Lobumba, into and is
+the Luamo: prawns are found in this river. The country east of the
+Lobumba is called Lobanda, that west of it, Kitwa.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st August, 1869.</i>&mdash;Went on to the River Loungwa, which has worn for
+itself a rut in new red sandstone twenty feet deep, and only three or
+four feet wide at the lips.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th August, 1869.</i>&mdash;We rest because all are tired; travelling at this
+season is excessively fatiguing. It is very hot at even 10 A.M., and 2&frac12;
+or 3 hours tires the strongest&mdash;carriers especially so: during the rains
+five hours would not have fatigued so much as three do now. We are now
+on the same level as Tanganyika. The dense mass of black smoke rising
+from the burning grass and reeds on the Lobumba, or Robumba, obscures
+the sun, and very sensibly lowers the temperature of the sultriest day;
+it looks like the smoke in Martin's pictures. The Manyuema arrows here
+are very small, and made of strong grass stalks, but poisoned, the large
+ones, for elephants and buffaloes, are poisoned also.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st August, 1869.</i>&mdash;Course N.W. among Palmyras and Hyphen&eacute; Palms, and
+many villages swarming with people. Crossed Kibila, a hot fountain about
+120&deg;, to sleep at Kolokolo River, five yards wide, and knee deep: midway
+we passed the River Kanzazala. On asking the name of a mountain on our
+right I got three names for it&mdash;Kaloba, Chingedi, and Kihomba, a fair
+specimen of the superabundance of names in this country!</p>
+
+<p><i>1st September, 1869.</i>&mdash;West in flat forest, then cross Kishila River,
+and go on to Kund&eacute;'s villages. The Katamba is a fine rivulet. Kund&eacute; is
+an old man without dignity or honour: he came to beg, but offered
+nothing.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd September, 1869.</i>&mdash;We remained at Katamba to hunt buffaloes and
+rest, as I am still weak. A young elephant was <a name="Page_23" id="Page_23" />killed, and I got the
+heart: the Arabs do not eat it, but that part is nice if well cooked.</p>
+
+<p>A Lunda slave, for whom I interceded to be freed of the yoke, ran away,
+and as he is near the Barna, his countrymen, he will be hidden. He told
+his plan to our guide, and asked to accompany him back to Tanganyika,
+but he is eager to deliver him up for a reward: all are eager to press
+each other down in the mire into which they are already sunk.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Kund&eacute;'s people refused the tusks of an elephant
+killed by our hunter, asserting that they had killed it themselves with
+a hoe: they have no honour here, as some have elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;W. and N.W., through forest and immense fields
+of cassava, some three years old, with roots as thick as a stout man's
+leg.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Across five rivers and through many villages.
+The country is covered with ferns and gingers, and miles and miles of
+cassava. On to village of Karun-gamagao.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Rest again to shoot meat, as elephants and
+buffaloes are very abundant: the Suaheli think that adultery is an
+obstacle to success in killing this animal: no harm can happen to him
+who is faithful to his wife, and has the proper charms inserted under
+the skin of his forearms.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;North and north-west, over four rivers, and.
+past the village of Makala, to near that of Pyana-mosind&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;We had wandered, and now came back to our path
+on hilly ground. The days are sultry and smoking. We came to some
+villages of Pyana-mosind&eacute;; the population prodigiously large. A sword
+was left at the camp, and at once picked up; though the man was traced
+to a village it was refused, till he accidentally cut his foot <a name="Page_24" id="Page_24" />with it,
+and became afraid that worse would follow, elsewhere it would have been
+given up at once: Pyana-mosind&eacute; came out and talked very sensibly.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Along towards the Moloni or Mononi; cross seven
+rills. The people seized three slaves who lagged behind, but hearing a
+gun fired at guinea-fowls let them go. Route N.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Up and down hills perpetually. We went down
+into some deep dells, filled with gigantic trees, and I measured one
+twenty feet in circumference, and sixty or seventy feet high to the
+first branches; others seemed fit to be ship's spars. Large lichens
+covered many and numerous new plants appeared on the ground.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Got clear of the mountains after 1-1/2 hour, and
+then the vast valley of Mamba opened out before us; very beautiful, and
+much of it cleared of trees. Met Dugumb&eacute; carrying 18,000 lbs. of ivory,
+purchased in this new field very cheaply, because no traders had ever
+gone into the country beyond Bambarr&eacute;, or Moen&eacute;kuss's district before.
+We were now in the large bend of the Lualaba, which is here much larger
+than at Mpw&eacute;to's, near Moero Lake. River Kesingw&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;To Kasangangazi's. We now came to the first
+palm-oil trees (<i>Elais Guineensis</i>) in our way since we left Tanganyika.
+They had evidently been planted at villages. Light-grey parrots, with
+red tails, also became common, whose name, Kuss or Koos, gives the chief
+his name, Moen&eacute;kuss (&quot;Lord of the Parrot&quot;); but the Manyuema
+pronunciation is Monanjoos&eacute;. Much reedy grass, fully half an inch in
+diameter in the stalk on our route, and over the top of the range
+Moloni, which we ascended: the valleys are impassable.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Remain to buy food at Kasanga's, and rest the
+carriers. The country is full of pahn-oil palms, and very beautiful. Our
+people are all afraid to go out of sight <a name="Page_25" id="Page_25" />of the camp for necessary
+purposes, lest the Manyuema should kill them. Here was the barrier to
+traders going north, for the very people among whom we now are, murdered
+anyone carrying a tusk, till last year, when Moene-mokaia, or Katomba,
+got into friendship with Moen&eacute;kuss, who protected his people, and always
+behaved in a generous sensible manner. Dilongo, now a chief here, came
+to visit us: his elder brother died, and he was elected; he does not
+wash in consequence, and is very dirty.</p>
+
+<p>Two buffaloes were killed yesterday. The people have their bodies
+tattooed with new and full moons, stars, crocodiles, and Egyptian
+gardens.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;We crossed several rivulets three yards to
+twelve yards, and calf deep. The mountain where we camped is called
+Sangom&eacute;lamb&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Up to a broad range of high mountains of light
+grey granite; there are deep dells on the top filled with gigantic
+trees, and having running rills in them. Some trees appear with enormous
+roots, buttresses in fact like mangroves in the coast swamps, six feet
+high at the trunk and flattened from side to side to about three inches
+in diameter. There are many villages dotted over the slopes which we
+climbed; one had been destroyed, and revealed the hard clay walls and
+square forms of Manyuema houses. Our path lay partly along a ridge, with
+a deep valley on each side: one on the left had a valley filled with
+primeval forests, into which elephants when wounded escape completely.
+The forest was a dense mass, without a bit of ground to be seen except a
+patch on the S.W., the bottom of this great valley was 2000 feet below
+us, then ranges of mountains with villages on their bases rose as far as
+they could reach. On our right there was another deep but narrow gorge,
+and mountains much higher than on our ridge close adjacent. Our ridge
+looked like a glacier, and it wound from side to side, and took us to
+the edge <a name="Page_26" id="Page_26" />of deep precipices, first on the right, then on the left, till
+down below we came to the villages of Chief Monandenda. The houses here
+are all well filled with firewood on shelves, and each has a bed on a
+raised platform in an inner room.</p>
+
+<p>The paths are very skilfully placed on the tops of the ridges of hills,
+and all gullies are avoided. If the highest level were not in general
+made the ground for passing through the country the distances would at
+least be doubled, and the fatigue greatly increased. The paths seem to
+have been used for ages: they are worn deep on the heights; and in
+hollows a little mound rises on each side, formed by the feet tossing a
+little soil on one side.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Cross five or six rivulets, and as many
+villages, some burned and deserted, or inhabited. Very many people come
+running to see the strangers. Gigantic trees all about the villages.
+Arrive at Bambarr&eacute; or Moen&eacute;kuss.</p>
+
+<p>About eighty hours of actual travelling, say at 2' per hour = say 160'
+or 140'. Westing from 3rd August to 21st September. My strength
+increased as I persevered. From Tanganyika west bank say =</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">29&deg; 30' east - 140' = 2&deg; 20,'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">2&nbsp; 20</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">27&deg; 10' Long.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Chief village of Moen&eacute;kuss.</p>
+
+<p>Observations show a little lower altitude than Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd September, 1869.</i>&mdash;Moen&eacute;kuss died lately, and left his two sons to
+fill his place. Moenembagg is the elder of the two, and the most
+sensible, and the spokesman on all important occasions, but his younger
+brother, Moenemgoi, is the chief, the centre of authority. They showed
+symptoms of suspicion, and Mohamad performed the ceremony of <a name="Page_27" id="Page_27" />mixing
+blood, which is simply making a small incision on the forearm of each
+person, and then mixing the bloods, and making declarations of
+friendship. Moenembagg said, &quot;Your people must not steal, we never do,&quot;
+which is true: blood in a small quantity was then conveyed from one to
+the other by a fig-leaf. &quot;No stealing of fowls or of men,&quot; said the
+chief: &quot;Catch the thief and bring him to me, one who steals a person is
+a pig,&quot; said Mohamad. Stealing, however, began on our side, a slave
+purloining a fowl, so they had good reason to enjoin honesty on us! They
+think that we have come to kill them: we light on them as if from
+another world: no letters come to tell who we are, or what we want. We
+cannot conceive their state of isolation and helplessness, with nothing
+to trust to but their charms and idols&mdash;both being bits of wood. I got a
+large beetle hung up before an idol in the idol house of a deserted and
+burned village; the guardian was there, but the village destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>I presented the two brothers with two table cloths, four bunches of
+beads, and one string of neck-beads; they were well satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>A wood here when burned emits a horrid f&aelig;cal smell, and one would think
+the camp polluted if one fire was made of it. I had a house built for me
+because the village huts are inconvenient, low in roof, and low
+doorways; the men build them, and help to cultivate the soil, but the
+women have to keep them well filled with firewood and supplied with
+water. They carry the wood, and almost everything else in large baskets,
+hung to the shoulders, like the Edinburgh fishwives. A man made a long
+loud prayer to Mulungu last night after dark for rain.</p>
+
+<p>The sons of Moen&eacute;kuss have but little of their father's power, but they
+try to behave to strangers as he did. All our people are in terror of
+the Many&eacute;ma, or Manyuema, man-<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28" />eating fame: a woman's child had crept
+into a quiet corner of the hut to eat a banana&mdash;she could not find him,
+and at once concluded that the Manyuema had kidnapped him to eat him,
+and with a yell she ran through the camp and screamed at the top of her
+shrill voice, &quot;Oh, the Manyuema have stolen my child to make meat of
+him! Oh, my child eaten&mdash;oh, oh!&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>26th-28th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;A Lunda slave-girl was sent off to be sold
+for a tusk, but the Manyuema don't want slaves, as we were told in
+Lunda, for they are generally thieves, and otherwise bad characters. It
+is now clouded over and preparing for rain, when sun comes overhead.
+Small-pox comes every three or four years, and kills many of the people.
+A soko alive was believed to be a good charm for rain; so one was
+caught, and the captor had the ends of two fingers and toes bitten off.
+The soko or gorillah always tries to bite off these parts, and has been
+known to overpower a young man and leave him without the ends of fingers
+and toes. I saw the nest of one: it is a poor contrivance; no more
+architectural skill shown than in the nest of our Cushat dove.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th September, 1869.</i>&mdash;I visited a hot fountain, an hour west of our
+camp, which has five eyes, temperature 150&deg;, slightly saline taste, and
+steam issues constantly. It is called Kasugw&eacute; Colambu. Earthquakes are
+well known, and to the Manyuema they seem to come from the east to west;
+pots rattle and fowls cackle on these occasions.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd October, 1869.</i>&mdash;A rhinoceros was shot, and party sent off to the
+River Luamo to buy ivory.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th October, 1869.</i>&mdash;An elephant was killed, and the entire population
+went off to get meat, which was given freely at first, but after it was
+known how eagerly the Manyuema sought it, six or eight goats were
+demanded for a carcase and given.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29" /><i>9th October, 1869.</i>&mdash;The rite of circumcision is general among all the
+Manyuema; it is performed on the young. If a headman's son is to be
+operated on, it is tried on a slave first; certain times of the year are
+unpropitious, as during a drought for instance; but having by this
+experiment ascertained the proper time, they go into the forest, beat
+drums, and feast as elsewhere: contrary to all African custom they are
+not ashamed to speak about the rite, even before women.</p>
+
+<p>Two very fine young men came to visit me to-day. After putting several
+preparatory inquiries as to where our country lay, &amp;c., they asked
+whether people died with us, and where they went to after death. &quot;Who
+kills them?&quot; &quot;Have you no charm (Buanga) against death?&quot; It is not
+necessary to answer such questions save in a land never visited by
+strangers. Both had the &quot;organs of intelligence&quot; largely developed. I
+told them that we prayed to the Great Father, &quot;Mulungu,&quot; and He hears us
+all; they thought this to be natural.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th October, 1869.</i>&mdash;An elephant killed was of the small variety, and
+only 5 feet 8 inches high at the withers. The forefoot was in
+circumference 3 feet 9 inches, which doubled gives 7 feet 6 inches; this
+shows a deviation from the usual rule &quot;twice round the forefoot = the
+height of the animal.&quot; Heart 1-1/2 foot long, tusks 6 feet 8 inches in
+length.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th October, 1869.</i>&mdash;Fever better, and thankful. Very cold and rainy.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th October, 1869.</i>&mdash;Our Hassani returned from Moen&eacute; Kirumbo's; then
+one of Dugumb&eacute;'s party (also called Hassani) seized ten goats and ten
+slaves before leaving, though great kindness had been shown: this is
+genuine Suaheli or Nigger-Moslem tactics&mdash;four of his people were killed
+in revenge.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30" />A whole regiment of Soldier ants in my hut were put into a panic by a
+detachment of Driver ants called Sirufu. The Chungu or black soldiers
+rushed out with their eggs and young, putting them down and running for
+more. A dozen Sirafu pitched on one Chungu and killed him. The Chungu
+made new quarters for themselves. When the white ants cast off their
+colony of winged emigrants a canopy is erected like an umbrella over the
+ant-hill. As soon as the ants fly against the roof they tumble down in a
+shower and their wings instantly become detached from their bodies. They
+are then helpless, and are swept up in baskets to be fried, when they
+make a very palatable food.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="p030" id="p030" />
+<img src="images/p030.jpg" width="400" height="340" alt="Catching Ants." title="Catching Ants." />
+<b>Catching Ants.</b>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31" /><i>24th-25th October, 1869.</i>&mdash;Making copper rings, as these are highly
+prized by Manyuema. Mohamad's Temb&eacute; fell. It had been begun on an
+unlucky day, the 26th of the moon; and on another occasion on the same
+day, he had fifty slaves swept away by a sudden flood of a dry river in
+the Obena country: they are great observers of lucky and unlucky days.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1" /><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> On showing Chuma and Susi some immense Cochin-China fowls
+at a poultry show, they said that they were not larger than those which
+they saw when with Dr. Livingstone on these islands. Muscovy ducks
+abound throughout Central Africa.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2" /><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The natural dress of the Malagash.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3" /><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The same as Unyanyemb&eacute;, the half-way settlement on the
+great caravan road from the coast to the interior.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4" /><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> These letters must have been destroyed purposely by the
+Arabs, for they never arrived at Zanzibar.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5" /><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> It is curious that this name occurs amongst the Zulu tribes
+south of the Zambesi, and, as it has no vowel at the end, appears to be
+of altogether foreign origin.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6" /><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> In 1859.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II" /><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32" />CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumb&eacute;'s ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resum&eacute; of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><i>1st November, 1869.</i>&mdash;Being now well rested, I resolved to go west to
+Lualaba and buy a canoe for its exploration. Our course was west and
+south-west, through a country surpassingly beautiful, mountainous, and
+villages perched on the talus of each great mass for the sake of quick
+drainage. The streets often run east and west, in order that the bright
+blazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from off them. The dwelling
+houses are generally in line, with public meeting houses at each end,
+opposite the middle of the street, the roofs are low, but well thatched
+with a leaf resembling the banana leaf, but more tough; it seems from
+its fruit to be a species of Euphorbia. The leaf-stack has a notch made
+in it of two or three inches lengthways, and this hooks on to the
+rafters, which are often of the leaf-stalks of palms, split up so as to
+be thin; the water runs quickly off this roof, and the walls, which are
+of well-beaten clay, are <a name="Page_33" id="Page_33" />screened from the weather. Inside, the
+dwellings are clean and comfortable, and before the Arabs came bugs were
+unknown&mdash;as I have before observed, one may know where these people have
+come by the presence or absence of these nasty vermin: the human tick,
+which infests all Arab and Suaheli houses, is to the Manyuema unknown.</p>
+
+<p>In some cases, where the south-east rains are abundant, the Manyuema
+place the back side of the houses to this quarter, and prolong the low
+roof down, so that the rain does not reach the walls. These clay walls
+stand for ages, and men often return to the villages they left in
+infancy and build again the portions that many rains have washed away.
+The country generally is of clayey soil, and suitable for building. Each
+housewife has from twenty-five to thirty earthen pots slung to the
+ceiling by very neat cord-swinging tressels; and often as many neatly
+made baskets hung up in the same fashion, and much firewood.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th November, 1869.</i>&mdash;In going we crossed the River Luela, of twenty
+yards in width, five times, in a dense dripping forest. The men of one
+village always refused to accompany us to the next set of hamlets, &quot;They
+were at war, and afraid of being killed and eaten.&quot; They often came five
+or six miles through the forests that separate the districts, but when
+we drew near to the cleared spaces cultivated by their enemies they
+parted civilly, and invited us to come the same way back, and they would
+sell us all the food we required.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyuema country is all surpassingly beautiful. Palms crown the
+highest heights of the mountains, and their gracefully bended fronds
+wave beautifully in the wind; and the forests, usually about five miles
+broad, between groups of villages, are indescribable. Climbers of cable
+size in great numbers are hung among the gigantic trees, many unknown
+wild fruits abound, some the size of a child's head, and strange birds
+and monkeys are everywhere. The soil is excessively rich, and the
+people, although isolated by old <a name="Page_34" id="Page_34" />feuds that are never settled,
+cultivate largely. They have selected a kind of maize that bends its
+fruit-stalk round into a hook, and hedges some eighteen feet high are
+made by inserting poles, which sprout like Robinson Crusoe's hedge, and
+never decay. Lines of climbing plants are tied so as to go along from
+pole to pole, and the maize cobs are suspended to these by their own
+hooked fruit-stalk. As the corn cob is forming, the hook is turned
+round, so that the fruit-leaves of it hang down and form a thatch for
+the grain beneath, or inside it. This upright granary forms a
+solid-looking, wall round the villages, and the people are not stingy,
+but take down maize and hand it to the men freely.</p>
+
+<p>The women are very naked. They bring loads of provisions to sell,
+through the rain, and are eager traders for beads. Plantains, cassava,
+and maize, are the chief food. The first rains had now begun, and the
+white ants took the hint to swarm and colonize.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th, 7th, and 8th November, 1869.</i>&mdash;We came to many large villages, and
+were variously treated; one headman presented me with a parrot, and on
+my declining it, gave it to one of my people; some ordered us off, but
+were coaxed to allow us to remain over night. They have no restraint;
+some came and pushed off the door of my hut with a stick while I was
+resting, as we should do with a wild-beast cage.</p>
+
+<p>Though reasonably willing to gratify curiosity, it becomes tiresome to
+be the victim of unlimited staring by the ugly, as well as by the
+good-looking. I can bear the women, but ugly males are uninteresting,
+and it is as much as I can stand when a crowd will follow me wherever I
+move. They have heard of Dugumb&eacute; Hassani's deeds, and are evidently
+suspicious of our intentions: they say, &quot;If you have food at home, why
+come so far and spend your beads to buy it here?&quot; If it is replied, on
+the strength of some of Mohamad's people being present, &quot;We want to buy
+ivory <a name="Page_35" id="Page_35" />too;&quot; not knowing its value they think that this is a mere
+subterfuge to plunder them. Much palm-wine to-day at different parts
+made them incapable of reasoning further; they seemed inclined to fight,
+but after a great deal of talk we departed without collision.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th November, 1869.</i>&mdash;We came to villages where all were civil, but
+afterwards arrived where there were other palm-trees and palm-toddy, and
+people low and disagreeable in consequence. The mountains all around are
+grand, and tree-covered. I saw a man with two great great toes: the
+double toe is usually a little one.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th November, 1869.</i>&mdash;We had heard that the Manyuema were eager to buy
+slaves, but that meant females only to make wives of them: they prefer
+goats to men. Mohamad had bought slaves in Lunda in order to get ivory
+from these Manyuema, but inquiry here and elsewhere brought it out
+plainly that they would rather let the ivory lie unused or rot than
+invest in male slaves, who are generally criminals&mdash;at least in Lunda. I
+advised my friend to desist from buying slaves who would all &quot;eat off
+their own heads,&quot; but he knew better than to buy copper, and on our
+return he acknowledged that I was right.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th November, 1869.</i>&mdash;We came into a country where Dugumb&eacute;'s slaves
+had maltreated the people greatly, and they looked on us as of the same
+tribe, and we had much trouble in consequence. The country is swarming
+with villages. Hassani of Dugumb&eacute; got the chief into debt, and then
+robbed him of ten men and ten goats to clear off the debt: The Dutch did
+the same in the south of Africa.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th November, 1869.</i>&mdash;Copious rains brought us to a halt at Muana
+Balang&eacute;'s, on the banks of the Luamo River. Moerekurambo had died
+lately, and his substitute took seven goats to the chiefs on the other
+side in order to induce them to come in a strong party and attack us for
+Hassani's affair.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36" /><i>20th to 25th November, 1869.</i>&mdash;We were now only about ten miles from
+the confluence of the Luamo and Lualaba, but all the people had been
+plundered, and some killed by the slaves of Dugumb&eacute;. The Luamo is here
+some 200 yards broad and deep; the chiefs everywhere were begged to
+refuse us a passage. The women were particularly outspoken in asserting
+our identity with the cruel strangers, and when one lady was asked in
+the midst of her vociferation just to look if I were of the same colour
+with Dugumb&eacute;, she replied with a bitter little laugh, &quot;Then you must be
+his father!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It was of no use to try to buy a canoe, for all were our enemies. It was
+now the rainy season, and I had to move with great caution. The worst
+our enemies did, after trying to get up a war in vain, was to collect as
+we went by in force fully armed with their large spears and huge wooden
+shields, and show us out of their districts. All are kind except those
+who have been abused by the Arab slaves. While waiting at Luamo a man,
+whom we sent over to buy food, got into a panic and fled he knew not
+whither; all concluded that he had been murdered, but some Manyuema whom
+we had never seen found him, fed him, and brought him home unscathed: I
+was very glad that no collision had taken place. We returned to Bambarr&eacute;
+19th December, 1869.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th December, 1869.</i>&mdash;While we were away a large horde of Ujijians
+came to Bambarr&eacute;, all eager to reach the cheap ivory, of which a rumour
+had spread far and wide; they numbered 500 guns, and invited Mohamad to
+go with them, but he preferred waiting for my return from the west. We
+now resolved to go due north; he to buy ivory, and I to reach another
+part of the Lualaba and buy a canoe.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever the dense primeval forest has been cleared off by man, gigantic
+grasses usurp the clearances. None of the sylvan vegetation can stand
+the annual grass-burnings except a species of Bauhinia, and occasionally
+a large tree which sends out new wood below the burned places. The
+<a name="Page_37" id="Page_37" />parrots build thereon, and the men make a stair up 150 feet by tying
+climbing plants (called Binayoba) around, at about four feet distance,
+as steps: near the confluence of the Luamo, men build huts on this same
+species of tree for safety against the arrows of their enemies.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st December, 1869.</i>&mdash;The strong thick grass of the clearances dries
+down to the roots at the surface of the soil, and fire does it no harm.
+Though a few of the great old burly giants brave the fires, none of the
+climbers do: they disappear, but the plants themselves are brought out
+of the forests and ranged along the plantations like wire fences to keep
+wild beasts off; the poles of these vegetable wire hedges often take
+root, as also those in stages for maize.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd, 23rd, and 24th December, 1869.</i>&mdash;Mohamad presented a goat to be
+eaten on our Christmas. I got large copper bracelets made of my copper
+by Manyuema smiths, for they are considered very valuable, and have
+driven iron bracelets quite out of fashion.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th December, 1869.</i>&mdash;We start immediately after Christmas: I must try
+with all my might to finish my exploration before next Christmas.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th December, 1869.</i>&mdash;I get fever severely, and was down all day, but
+we march, as I have always found that moving is the best remedy for
+fever: I have, however, no medicine whatever. We passed over the neck of
+Mount Kinyima, north-west of Moen&eacute;kuss, through very slippery forest,
+and encamped on the banks of the Lulwa Rivulet.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th December, 1869.</i>&mdash;Away to Monangoi's village, near the Luamo
+River, here 150 or more yards wide and deep. A man passed us, bearing a
+human finger wrapped in a leaf; it was to be used as a charm, and
+belonged to a man killed in revenge: the Arabs all took this as clear
+evidence of cannibalism: I hesitated, however, to believe it.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th, 30th, and 31st December, 1869.</i>&mdash;Heavy rains. The Luamo is called
+the Luass&eacute; above this. We crossed in canoes.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38" /><i>1st January, 1870.</i>&mdash;May the Almighty help me to finish, the work in
+hand, and retire through the Basango before the year is out. Thanks for
+all last year's loving kindness.</p>
+
+<p>Our course was due north, with the Luass&eacute; flowing in a gently undulating
+green country on our right, and rounded mountains in Mbongo's country on
+our left.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd January, 1870.</i>&mdash;Rested a day at Mbongo's, as the people were
+honest.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd January, 1870.</i>&mdash;Reached a village at the edge of a great forest,
+where the people were excited and uproarious, but not ill-bred, they ran
+alongside the path with us shouting and making energetic remarks to each
+other about us. A newly-married couple stood in a village where we
+stopped to inquire the way, with arms around each other very lovingly,
+and no one joked or poked fun at them. We marched five hours through
+forest and crossed three rivulets and much stagnant water which the sun
+by the few rays he darts in cannot evaporate. We passed several huge
+traps for elephants: they are constructed thus&mdash;a log of heavy wood,
+about 20 feet long, has a hole at one end for a climbing plant to pass
+through and suspend it, at the lower end a mortice is cut out of the
+side, and a wooden lance about 2 inches broad by 1-1/2 thick, and about
+4 feet long, is inserted firmly in the mortice; a latch down on the
+ground, when touched by the animal's foot, lets the beam run down on to
+his body, and the great weight of the wood drives in the lance and kills
+the animal. I saw one lance which had accidentally fallen, and it had
+gone into the stiff clay soil two feet.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th January, 1870.</i>&mdash;- The villagers we passed were civil, but like
+noisy children, all talked and gazed. When surrounded by 300 or 400,
+some who have not been accustomed to the ways of wild men think that a
+fight is imminent; but, poor things, no attack is thought of, if it does
+not begin on our side. Many of Mohamad's people were dread<a name="Page_39" id="Page_39" />fully afraid
+of being killed and eaten; one man out in search of ivory seemed to have
+lost sight of his companions, for they saw him running with all his
+might to a forest with no path in it; he was searched for for several
+days, and was given up as a murdered man, a victim of the cannibal
+Manyuema! On the seventh day after he lost his head, he was led into
+camp by a headman, who not only found him wandering but fed and lodged
+and restored him to his people.</p>
+
+<p>[With reference to the above we may add that nothing can exceed the
+terror in which cannibal nations are held by other African tribes. It
+was common on the River Shir&eacute; to hear Manganja and Ajawa people speak of
+tribes far away to the north who eat human bodies, and on every occasion
+the fact was related with the utmost horror and disgust.]</p>
+
+<p>The women here plait the hair into the form of a basket behind; it is
+first rolled into a very long coil, then wound round something till it
+is about 8 or 10 inches long, projecting from the back of the head.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th, 6th, and 7th January, 1870.</i>&mdash;Wettings by rain and grass
+overhanging our paths, with bad water, brought on choleraic symptoms;
+and opium from Mohamad had no effect in stopping it: he, too, had
+rheumatism. On suspecting the water as the cause, I had all I used
+boiled, and this was effectual, but I was greatly reduced in flesh, and
+so were many of our party.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded nearly due north, through wilderness and many villages and
+running rills; the paths are often left to be choked up by the
+overbearing vegetation, and then the course of the rill is adopted as
+the only clear passage; it has also this advantage, it prevents
+footmarks being followed by enemies: in fact the object is always to
+make approaches to human dwellings as difficult as possible, even the
+hedges around villages sprout out and grow a living fence, and this is
+covered by a great mass of a species <a name="Page_40" id="Page_40" />of calabash with its broad leaves,
+so that nothing appears of the fence outside.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th January, 1870.</i>&mdash;The people are civil, but uproarious from the
+excitement of having never seen strangers before; all visitors from a
+distance came with their large wooden shields; many of the men are
+handsome and tall but the women are plainer than at Bambarr&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th January, 1870.</i>&mdash;Cross the Lolind&eacute;, 35 yards and knee deep,
+flowing to join Luamo far down: dark water. (<i>13th.</i>) Through the hills
+Chimun&eacute;mun&eacute;; we see many albinos and partial lepers and syphilis is
+prevalent. It is too trying to travel during the rains.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th January, 1870.</i>&mdash;The Muab&eacute; palm had taken possession of a broad
+valley, and the leaf-stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm and 20 feet
+long, had fallen off and blocked up all passage except by one path made
+and mixed up by the feet of buffaloes and elephants. In places like this
+the leg goes into elephants' holes up to the thigh and it is grievous;
+three hours of this slough tired the strongest: a brown stream ran
+through the centre, waist deep, and washed off a little of the adhesive
+mud. Our path now lay through a river covered with tikatika, a living
+vegetable bridge made by a species of glossy leafed grass which felts
+itself into a mat capable of bearing a man's weight, but it bends in a
+foot or fifteen inches every step; a stick six feet long could not reach
+the bottom in certain holes we passed. The lotus, or sacred lily, which
+grows in nearly all the shallow waters of this country, sometimes
+spreads its broad leaves over the bridge so as to lead careless
+observers to think that it is the bridge builder, but the grass
+mentioned is the real agent. Here it is called Kint&eacute;fw&eacute;t&eacute;fw&eacute;; on
+Victoria Nyanza Titatika.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th January, 1870.</i>&mdash;Choleraic purging again came on till all the
+water used was boiled, but I was laid up by sheer weakness near the hill
+Chanza.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41" /><i>20th and 21st January. 1870.</i>&mdash;Weakness and illness goes on because we
+get wet so often; the whole party suffers, and they say that they will
+never come here again. The Manyango Rivulet has fine sweet water, but
+the whole country is smothered with luxuriant vegetation.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th, 29th, and 30th January, 1870.</i>&mdash;Rest from sickness in camp. The
+country is indescribable from rank jungle of grass, but the rounded
+hills are still pretty; an elephant alone can pass through it&mdash;these are
+his head-quarters. The stalks are from half an inch to an inch and a
+half in diameter, reeds clog the feet, and the leaves rub sorely on the
+face and eyes: the view is generally shut in by this megatherium grass,
+except when we come to a slope down to a valley or the bed of a rill.</p>
+
+<p>We came to a village among fine gardens of maize, bananas, ground-nuts,
+and cassava, but the villagers said, &quot;Go on to next village;&quot; and this
+meant, &quot;We don't want you here.&quot; The main body of Mohamad's people was
+about three miles before us, but I was so weak I sat down in the next
+hamlet and asked for a hut to rest in. A woman with leprous hands gave
+me hers, a nice clean one, and very heavy rain came on: of her own
+accord she prepared dumplings of green maize, pounded and boiled; which
+are sweet, for she said that she saw I was hungry. It was excessive
+weakness from purging, and seeing that I did not eat for fear of the
+leprosy, she kindly pressed me: &quot;Eat, you are weak only from hunger;
+this will strengthen you.&quot; I put it out of her sight, and blessed her
+motherly heart.</p>
+
+<p>I had ere this come to the conclusion that I ought not to risk myself
+further in the rains in my present weakness, for it may result in
+something worse, as in Marungu and Liemba.</p>
+
+<p>The horde mentioned as having passed Bambarr&eacute; was now somewhere in our
+vicinity, and it was impossible to ascertain from the Manyuema where the
+Lualaba lay.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42" />In going north on 1st February we came to some of this horde belonging
+to Katomba or Moene-mokaia, who stated that the leader was anxious for
+advice as to crossing Lualaba and future movements. He supposed that
+this river was seven days in front of him, and twelve days in front of
+us. It is a puzzle from its north-westing and low level: it is possibly
+Petherick's Bahr Ghazal. Could get no latitude.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd February, 1870.</i>&mdash;I propose to cross it, and buy an exploring
+canoe, because I am recovering my strength; but we now climb over the
+bold hills Bininango, and turn south-west towards Katomba to take
+counsel: he knows more than anyone else about the country, and his
+people being now scattered everywhere seeking ivory, I do not relish
+their company.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd February, 1870.</i>&mdash;Caught in a drenching rain, which made me fain to
+sit, exhausted as I was, under an umbrella for an hour trying to keep
+the trunk dry. As I sat in the rain a little tree-frog, about half an
+inch long, leaped on to a grassy leaf, and began a tune as loud as that
+of many birds, and very sweet; it was surprising to hear so much music
+out of so small a musician. I drank some rain-water as I felt faint&mdash;in
+the paths it is now calf deep. I crossed a hundred yards of slush waist
+deep in mid channel, and full of holes made by elephants' feet, the path
+hedged in by reedy grass, often intertwined and very tripping. I
+stripped off my clothes on reaching my hut in a village, and a fire
+during night nearly dried them. At the same time I rubbed my legs with
+palm oil, and in the morning had a delicious breakfast of sour goat's
+milk and porridge.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th February, 1870.</i>&mdash;The drenching told on me sorely, and it was
+repeated after we had crossed the good-sized rivulets Mulunkula and many
+villages, and I lay on an enormous boulder under a Muab&eacute; palm, and slept
+during the worst <a name="Page_43" id="Page_43" />of the pelting. I was seven days southing to Mamohela,
+Katomba's camp, and quite knocked up and exhausted. I went into winter
+quarters on 7th February, 1870.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th February, 1870.</i>&mdash;This was the camp of the headman of the ivory
+horde now away for ivory. Katomba, as Moene-mokaia is called, was now all
+kindness. We were away from his Ujijian associates, and he seemed to
+follow his natural bent without fear of the other slave-traders, who all
+hate to see me as a spy on their proceedings. Rest, shelter, and boiling
+all the water I used, and above all the new species of potato called
+Nyumbo, much famed among the natives as restorative, soon put me all to
+rights. Katomba supplied me liberally with nyumbo; and, but for a
+slightly medicinal taste, which is got rid of by boiling in two waters,
+this vegetable would be equal to English potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th February, 1870.</i>&mdash;First of all it was proposed to go off to the
+Lualaba in the north-west, in order to procure <i>Holcus sorghum</i> or dura
+flour, that being, in Arab opinion, nearly equal to wheat, or as they
+say &quot;heating,&quot; while the maize flour we were obliged to use was cold or
+cooling.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th February, 1870.</i>&mdash;I was too ill to go through mud waist deep, so I
+allowed Mohamad (who was suffering much) to go away alone in search of
+ivory. As stated above, shelter and nyumbo proved beneficial.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd February, 1870.</i>&mdash;Falls between Vira and Baker's Water seen by
+Wanyamwezi. This confirms my conjecture on finding Lualaba at a lower
+level than Tanganyika. Bin Habib went to fight the Batusi, but they were
+too strong, and he turned.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st March, 1870.</i>&mdash;Visited my Arab friends in their camp for the first
+time to-day. This is Kasessa's country, and the camp is situated between
+two strong rivulets, while Mamohela is the native name, Mount Bombola
+stands two miles from it north, and Mount Bolunkela is north-east the
+same distance. Wood, water, and grass, the requisites of a camp <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44" />abound,
+and the Manyuema bring large supplies of food every day; forty large
+baskets of maize for a goat; fowls and bananas and nyumbo very cheap.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th March, 1870.</i>&mdash;Iron bracelets are the common medium of exchange,
+and coarse beads and cowries: for a copper bracelet three large fowls
+are given, and three and a half baskets of maize; one basket three feet
+high is a woman's load, and they are very strong.</p>
+
+<p>The Wachiogon&eacute; are a scattered tribe among the Maarabo or Suaheli, but
+they retain their distinct identity as a people.</p>
+
+<p>The Mamba fish has breasts with milk, and utters a cry; its flesh is
+very white, it is not the crocodile which goes by the same name, but is
+probably the Dugong or Peixe Mulher of the Portuguese(?). Full-grown
+leeches come on the surface in this wet country.</p>
+
+<p>Some of Katomba's men returned with forty-three tusks. An animal with
+short horns and of a reddish colour is in the north; it is not known to
+the Arabs(?).</p>
+
+<p>Joseph, an Arab from Oman, says that the Simoom is worse in Sham
+(Yemen?) than in Oman: it blows for three or four hours. Butter eaten
+largely is the remedy against its ill effects, and this is also smeared
+on the body: in Oman a wetted cloth is put over the head, body, and
+legs, while this wind blows.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st May, 1870.</i>&mdash;An elephant was killed which had three tusks; all of
+good size.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7" /><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+
+<p>Rains continued; and mud and mire from the clayey soil of Manyuema were
+too awful to be attempted.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th May, 1870.</i>&mdash;I sent to Bambarr&eacute; for the cloth and beads I left
+there. A party of Thani's people came south and said that they had
+killed forty Manyuema, and lost four of their<a name="Page_45" id="Page_45" />own number; nine villages
+were burned, and all this about a single string of beads which a man
+tried to steal!</p>
+
+<p><i>June, 1870.</i>&mdash;Mohamad bin Nassur and Akila's men brought 116 tusks from
+the north, where the people are said to be all good and obliging:
+Akila's chief man had a large deep ulcer on the foot from the mud. When
+we had the people here, Kassessa gave ten goats and one tusk to hire
+them to avenge a feud in which his elder brother was killed, and they
+went; the spoils secured were 31 captives, 60 goats, and about 40
+Manyuema killed: one slave of the attacking party was killed, and two
+badly wounded. Thani's man, Yahood, who was leader in the other case of
+40 killed, boasted before me of the deed. I said, &quot;You were sent here
+not to murder, but to trade;&quot; he replied, &quot;We are sent to murder.&quot; Bin
+Nassur said, &quot;The English are always killing people;&quot; I replied, &quot;Yes,
+but only slavers who do the deeds that were done yesterday.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Various other tribes sent large presents to the Arabs to avert assaults,
+and tusks too were offered.</p>
+
+<p>The rains had continued into June, and fifty-eight inches fell.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fp045" id="fp045" />
+<img src="images/fp045.jpg" width="400" height="565" alt="Chuma and Susi" title="Chuma and Susi" />
+<b>Chuma and Susi</b>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>26th June, 1870.</i>&mdash;Now my people failed me; so, with only three
+attendants, Susi, Chuma, and Gardner, I started off to the north-west
+for the Lualaba. The numbers of running rivulets to be crossed were
+surprising, and at each, for some forty yards, the path had been worked
+by the feet of passengers into adhesive mud: we crossed fourteen in one
+day&mdash;some thigh deep; most of them run into the Liya, which we crossed,
+and it flows to the Lualaba. We passed through many villages, for the
+paths all lead through human dwellings. Many people presented bananas,
+and seemed surprised when I made a small return gift; one man ran after
+me with a sugar-cane; I paid for lodgings too: here the Arabs never do.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th June, 1870.</i>&mdash;The driver ants were in millions in some part <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46" />of
+the way; on this side of the continent they seem less fierce than I have
+found them in the west.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th June, 1870.</i>&mdash;At one village musicians with calabashes, having
+holes in them, flute-fashion, tried to please me by their vigorous
+acting, and by beating drums in time.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th June, 1870.</i>&mdash;We passed through the nine villages burned for a
+single string of beads, and slept in the village of Malola.</p>
+
+<p><i>July, 1870.</i>&mdash;While I was sleeping quietly here, some trading Arabs
+camped at Nasangwa's, and at dead of night one was pinned to the earth
+by a spear; no doubt this was in revenge for relations slain in the
+forty mentioned: the survivors now wished to run a muck in all
+directions against the Manyuema.</p>
+
+<p>When I came up I proposed to ask the chief if he knew the assassin, and
+he replied that he was not sure of him, for he could only conjecture who
+it was; but death to all Manyuemas glared from the eyes of half-castes
+and slaves. Fortunately, before this affair was settled in their way, I
+met Mohamad Bogharib coming back from Kasonga's, and he joined in
+enforcing peace: the traders went off, but let my three people know,
+what I knew long before, that they hated having a spy in me on their
+deeds. I told some of them who were civil tongued that ivory obtained by
+bloodshed was unclean evil&mdash;&quot;unlucky&quot; as they say: my advice to them
+was, &quot;Don't shed human blood, my friends; it has guilt not to be wiped
+off by water.&quot; Off they went; and afterwards the bloodthirsty party got
+only one tusk and a half, while another party, which avoided shooting
+men, got fifty-four tusks!</p>
+
+<p>From Mohamad's people I learned that the Lualaba was not in the N.W.
+course I had pursued, for in fact it flows W.S.W. in another great bend,
+and they had gone far to the north without seeing it, but the country
+was exceedingly difficult from forest and water. As I had already <a name="Page_47" id="Page_47" />seen,
+trees fallen across the path formed a breast-high wall which had to be
+climbed over: flooded rivers, breast and neck deep, had to be crossed,
+the mud was awful, and nothing but villages eight or ten miles apart.</p>
+
+<p>In the clearances around these villages alone could the sun be seen. For
+the first time in my life my feet failed me, and now having but three
+attendants it would have been unwise to go further in that direction.
+Instead of healing quietly as heretofore, when torn by hard travel,
+irritable-eating ulcers fastened on both feet; and I limped back to
+Bambarr&eacute; on 22nd.</p>
+
+<p>The accounts of Ramad&acirc;n (who was desired by me to take notes as he went
+in the forest) were discouraging, and made me glad I did not go. At one
+part, where the tortuous river was flooded, they were five hours in the
+water, and a man in a small canoe went before them sounding for places
+not too deep for them, breast and chin deep, and Hassani fell and hurt
+himself sorely in a hole. The people have goats and sheep, and love them
+as they do children.</p>
+
+<p>[Fairly baffled by the difficulties in his way, and sorely troubled by
+the demoralised state of his men, who appear not to have been proof
+against the contaminating presence of the Arabs, the Doctor turns back
+at this point.]</p>
+
+<p><i>6th July, 1870.</i>&mdash;Back to Mamohela, and welcomed by the Arabs, who all
+approved of my turning back. Katomba presented abundant provisions for
+all the way to Bambarr&eacute;. Before we reached this, Mohamad made a forced
+march, and Moene-mokaia's people came out drunk: the Arabs assaulted
+them, and they ran off.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd July, 1870.</i>&mdash;The sores on my feet now laid me up as
+irritable-eating ulcers. If the foot were put to the ground, a discharge
+of bloody ichor flowed, and the same discharge happened every night with
+considerable pain, that prevented sleep: the wailing of the slaves
+tortured with <a name="Page_48" id="Page_48" />these sores is one of the night sounds of a slave-camp:
+they eat through everything&mdash;muscle, tendon, and bone, and often lame
+permanently if they do not kill the poor things. Medicines have very
+little effect on such wounds: their periodicity seems to say that they
+are allied to fever. The Arabs make a salve of bees'-wax and sulphate of
+copper, and this applied hot, and held on by a bandage affords support,
+but the necessity of letting the ichor escape renders it a painful
+remedy: I had three ulcers, and no medicine. The native plan of support
+by means of a stiff leaf or bit of calabash was too irritating, and so
+they continued to eat in and enlarge in spite of everything: the
+vicinity was hot, and the pain increased with the size of the wound.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd August, 1870.</i>&mdash;An eclipse at midnight: the Moslems called loudly
+on Moses. Very cold.</p>
+
+<p>On <i>17th August, 1870,</i> Monanyemb&eacute;, the chief who was punished by
+Mohamad Bogharib, lately came bringing two goats; one he gave to
+Mohamad, the other to Moen&eacute;kuss' son, acknowledging that he had killed
+his elder brother: he had killed eleven persons over at Linamo in our
+absence, in addition to those killed in villages on our S.E. when we
+were away. It transpired that Kandahara, brother of old Moen&eacute;kuss, whose
+village is near this, killed three women and a child, and that a trading
+man came over from Kasangangay&eacute;, and was murdered too, for no reason but
+to eat his body. Mohamad ordered old Kandahara to bring ten goats and
+take them over to Kasangangay&eacute; to pay for the murdered man. When they
+tell of each other's deeds they disclose a horrid state of bloodthirsty
+callousness. The people over a hill N.N.E. of this killed a person out
+hoeing; if a cultivator is alone, he is almost sure of being slain. Some
+said that people in the vicinity, or hy&aelig;nas, stole the buried dead; but
+Posho's wife died, and in Wanyamesi fashion was thrown out of camp
+unburied. Mohamad threatened an attack if Manyuema did not cease
+exhuming <a name="Page_49" id="Page_49" />the dead; it was effectual, neither men nor hy&aelig;nas touched
+her, though exposed now for seven days.</p>
+
+<p>The head of Moen&eacute;kuss is said to be preserved in a pot in his house, and
+all public matters are gravely communicated to it, as if his spirit
+dwelt therein: his body was eaten, the flesh was removed from the head
+and eaten too; his father's head is said to be kept also: the foregoing
+refers to Bambarr&eacute; alone. In other districts graves show that sepulture
+is customary, but here no grave appears: some admit the existence of the
+practice here; others deny it. In the Metamba country adjacent to the
+Lualaba, a quarrel with a wife often ends in the husband killing her and
+eating her heart, mixed up in a huge mess of goat's flesh: this has the
+charm character. Fingers are taken as charms in other parts, but in
+Bambarr&eacute; alone is the depraved taste the motive for cannibalism.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bambarr&eacute;, 18th August, 1870.</i>&mdash;I learn from Josut and Moenepemb&eacute;, who
+have been to Kata&ntilde;ga and beyond, that there is a Lake N.N.W. of the
+copper mines, and twelve days distant; it is called Chibungo, and is
+said to be large. Seven days west of Kata&ntilde;ga flows another Lualaba,
+the dividing line between Rua and Lunda or Londa; it is very large,
+and as the Lufira flows into Chibungo, it is probable that the Lualaba
+West and the Lufira form the Lake. Lualaba West and Lufira rise by
+fountains south of Kata&ntilde;ga, three or four days off. Luambai and Lunga
+fountains are only about ten miles distant from Lualaba West and
+Lufira fountains: a mound rises between them, the most remarkable in
+Africa. Were this spot in Armenia it would serve exactly the
+description of the garden of Eden in Genesis, with its four rivers,
+the Gihon, Pison, Hiddekel, and Euphrates; as it is, it possibly gave
+occasion to the story told to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva in
+the City of Sa&iuml;s, about two hills with conical tops, Crophi and Mophi.
+&quot;Midway between them,&quot; said he, &quot;are the fountains of the Nile,
+fountains <a name="Page_50" id="Page_50" />which it is impossible to fathom: half the water runs
+northward into Egypt; half to the south towards Ethiopia.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Four fountains rising so near to each other would readily be supposed to
+have one source, and half the water flowing into the Nile and the other
+half to the Zambesi, required but little imagination to originate,
+seeing the actual visitor would not feel bound to say how the division
+was effected. He could only know the fact of waters rising at one spot,
+and separating to flow north and south. The conical tops to the mound
+look like invention, as also do the names.</p>
+
+<p>A slave, bought on Lualaba East, came from Lualaba West in about twelve
+days: these two Lualabas may form the loop depicted by Ptolemy, and
+upper and lower Tanganyika be a third arm of the Nile.</p>
+
+<p>Patience is all I can exercise: these irritable ulcers hedge me in now,
+as did my attendants in June, but all will be for the best, for it is in
+Providence and not in me.</p>
+
+<p>The watershed is between 700 and 800 miles long from west to east, or
+say from 22&deg; or 23&deg; to 34&deg; or 35&deg; East longitude. Parts of it are
+enormous sponges; in other parts innumerable rills unite into rivulets,
+which again form rivers&mdash;Lufira, for instance, has nine rivulets, and
+Lekulw&eacute; other nine. The convex surface of the rose of a garden
+watering-can is a tolerably apt similitude, as the rills do not spring
+off the face of it, and it is 700 miles across the circle; but in the
+numbers of rills coming out at different heights on the slope, there is
+a faint resemblance, and I can at present think of no other example.</p>
+
+<p>I am a little thankful to old Nile for so hiding his head that all
+&quot;theoretical discoverers&quot; are left out in the cold. With all real
+explorers I have a hearty sympathy, and I have some regret at being
+obliged, in a manner compelled, to speak somewhat disparagingly of the
+opinions formed by my predecessors. The work of Speke and Grant is part
+of the history of this region, and since the discovery of the <a name="Page_51" id="Page_51" />sources
+of the Nile was asserted so positively, it seems necessary to explain,
+not offensively, I hope, wherein their mistake lay, in making a somewhat
+similar claim. My opinions may yet be shown to be mistaken too, but at
+present I cannot conceive how. When Speke discovered Victoria Nyanza in
+1858, he at once concluded that therein lay the sources of the Nile. His
+work after that was simply following a foregone conclusion, and as soon
+as he and Grant looked towards the Victoria Nyanza, they turned their
+backs on the Nile fountains; so every step of their splendid achievement
+of following the river down took them further and further away from the
+Caput Nili. When it was perceived that the little river that leaves the
+Nyanza, though they called it the White Nile, would not account for that
+great river, they might have gone west and found headwaters (as the
+Lualaba) to which it can bear no comparison. Taking their White Nile at
+80 or 90 yards, or say 100 yards broad, the Lualaba, far south of the
+latitude of its point of departure, shows an average breadth of from
+4000 to 6000 yards, and always deep.</p>
+
+<p>Considering that more than sixteen hundred years have elapsed since
+Ptolemy put down the results of early explorers, and emperors, kings,
+philosophers&mdash;all the great men of antiquity in short longed to know the
+fountains whence flowed the famous river, and longed in
+vain&mdash;exploration does not seem to have been very becoming to the other
+sex either. Madame Tinn&eacute; came further up the river than the centurions
+sent by Nero C&aelig;sar, and showed such indomitable pluck as to reflect
+honour on her race. I know nothing about her save what has appeared in
+the public papers, but taking her exploration along with what was done
+by Mrs. Baker, no long time could have elapsed before the laurels for
+the modern re-discovery of the sources of the Nile should have been
+plucked by the ladies. In 1841 the Egyptian Expedition under D'Arnauld
+and Sabatier reached lat. 4&deg; 42': <a name="Page_52" id="Page_52" />this was a great advance into the
+interior as compared with Linant in 1827, 13&deg; 30' N., and even on the
+explorations of Jomard(?); but it turned when nearly a thousand miles
+from the sources.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp052" id="fp052" />
+<img src="images/fp052.jpg" width="550" height="298" alt="Manuema Hunters killing Sokos" title="Manuema Hunters killing Sokos" />
+<b>Manuema Hunters killing Sokos</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>[The subjoined account of the soko&mdash;which is in all probability an
+entirely new species of chimpanzee, and <i>not</i> the gorilla, is
+exceedingly interesting, and no doubt Livingstone had plenty of stories
+from which to select. Neither Susi nor Chuma can identify the soko of
+Manyuema with the gorilla, as we have it stuffed in the British Museum.
+They think, however, that the soko is quite as large and as strong as
+the gorilla, judging by the specimens shown to them, although they could
+have decided with greater certainty, if the natives had not invariably
+brought in the dead sokos disembowelled; as they point out, and as we
+imagine from Dr. Livingstone's description, the carcase would then
+appear much less bulky. Livingstone gives an animated sketch of a soko
+hunt.]</p>
+
+<p><i>24th August, 1870.</i>&mdash;Four gorillas or sokos were killed yesterday: an
+extensive grass-burning forced them out of their usual haunt, and coming
+on the plain they were speared. They often go erect, but place the hand
+on the head, as if to steady the body. When seen thus, the soko is an
+ungainly beast. The most sentimental young lady would not call him a
+&quot;dear,&quot; but a bandy-legged, pot-bellied, low-looking villain, without a
+particle of the gentleman in him. Other animals, especially the
+antelopes, are graceful, and it is pleasant to see them, either at rest
+or in motion: the natives also are well made, lithe and comely to
+behold, but the soko, if large, would do well to stand for a picture of
+the Devil.</p>
+
+<p>He takes away my appetite by his disgusting bestiality of appearance.
+His light-yellow face shows off his ugly whiskers, and faint apology for
+a beard; the forehead <a name="Page_53" id="Page_53" />villainously low, with high ears, is well in the
+back-ground of the great dog-mouth; the teeth are slightly human, but
+the canines show the beast by their large development. The hands, or
+rather the fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh of the feet
+is yellow, and the eagerness with which the Manyuema devour it leaves
+the impression that eating sokos was the first stage by which they
+arrived at being cannibals; they say the flesh is delicious. The soko is
+represented by some to be extremely knowing, successfully stalking men
+and women while at their work, kidnapping children, and running up trees
+with them&mdash;he seems to be amused by the sight of the young native in his
+arms, but comes down when tempted by a bunch of bananas, and as he lifts
+that, drops the child: the young soko in such a case would cling closely
+to the armpit of the elder. One man was cutting out honey from a tree,
+and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared and caught him, then let him
+go: another man was hunting, and missed in his attempt to stab a soko:
+it seized the spear and broke it, then grappled with the man, who called
+to his companions, &quot;Soko has caught me,&quot; the soko bit off the ends of
+his fingers and escaped unharmed. Both men are now alive at Bambarr&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>The soko is so cunning, and has such sharp eyes, that no one can stalk
+him in front without being seen, hence, when shot, it is always in the
+back; when surrounded by men and nets, he is generally speared in the
+back too, otherwise he is not a very formidable beast: he is nothing, as
+compared in power of damaging his assailant, to a leopard or lion, but
+is more like a man unarmed, for it does not occur to him to use his
+canine teeth, which are long and formidable. Numbers of them come down
+in the forest, within a hundred yards of our camp, and would be unknown
+but for giving tongue like fox-hounds: this is their nearest approach to
+speech. A man hoeing was stalked by a soko, <a name="Page_54" id="Page_54" />and seized; he roared out,
+but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him as if he had done it in
+play. A child caught up by a soko is often abused by being pinched and
+scratched, and let fall.</p>
+
+<p>The soko kills the leopard occasionally, by seizing both paws, and
+biting them so as to disable them, he then goes up a tree, groans over
+his wounds, and sometimes recovers, while the leopard dies: at other
+times, both soko and leopard die. The lion kills him at once, and
+sometimes tears his limbs off, but does not eat him. The soko eats no
+flesh&mdash;small bananas are his dainties, but not maize. His food consists
+of wild fruits, which abound: one, Staf&eacute;n&eacute;, or Manyuema Mamwa, is like
+large sweet sop but indifferent in taste and flesh. The soko brings
+forth at times twins. A very large soko was seen by Mohamad's hunters
+sitting picking his nails; they tried to stalk him, but he vanished.
+Some Manyuema think that their buried dead rise as sokos, and one was
+killed with holes in his ears, as if he had been a man. He is very
+strong and fears guns but not spears: he never catches women.</p>
+
+<p>Sokos collect together, and make a drumming noise, some say with hollow
+trees, then burst forth into loud yells which are well imitated by the
+natives' embryotic music. If a man has no spear the soko goes away
+satisfied, but if wounded he seizes the wrist, lops off the fingers, and
+spits them out, slaps the cheeks of his victim, and bites without
+breaking the skin: he draws out a spear (but never uses it), and takes
+some leaves and stuffs them into his wound to staunch the blood; he does
+not wish an encounter with an armed man. He sees women do him no harm,
+and never molests them; a man without a spear is nearly safe from him.
+They beat hollow trees as drums with hands, and then scream as music to
+it; when men hear them, they go to the sokos; but sokos never go to men
+with hostility. Manyuema say, &quot;Soko is a man, and nothing bad in him.&quot;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="fp055" id="fp055" />
+<img src="images/fp055.jpg" width="400" height="679" alt="Portrait of a Young Soko" title="Portrait of a Young Soko" />
+<b>Portrait of a Young Soko</b>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55" />They live in communities of about ten, each having his own female; an
+intruder from another camp is beaten off with their fists and loud
+yells. If one tries to seize the female of another, he is caught on the
+ground, and all unite in boxing and biting the offender. A male often
+carries a child, especially if they are passing from one patch of forest
+to another over a grassy space; he then gives it to the mother.</p>
+
+<p>I now spoke with my friend Mohamad, and he offered to go with me to see
+Lualaba from Luamo, but I explained that merely to see and measure its
+depth would not do, I must see whither it went. This would require a
+number of his people in lieu of my deserters, and to take them away from
+his ivory trade, which at present is like gold digging, I must make
+amends, and I offered him 2000 rupees, and a gun worth 700 rupees, R.
+2700 in all, or 270<i>l.</i> He agreed, and should he enable me to finish up
+my work in one trip down Lualaba, and round to Lualaba West, it would be
+a great favour.</p>
+
+<p>[How severely he felt the effects of the terrible illnesses of the last
+two years may be imagined by some few words here, and it must ever be
+regretted that the conviction which he speaks of was not acted up to.]</p>
+
+<p>The severe pneumonia in Marunga, the choleraic complaint in Manyuema,
+and now irritable ulcers warn me to retire while life lasts. Mohamad's
+people went north, and east, and west, from Kasonga's: sixteen marches
+north, ten ditto west, and four ditto E. and S.E. The average march was
+6-1/2 hours, say 12' about 200' N. and W., lat. of Kasongo, say 4&deg;
+south. They may have reached 1&deg;, 2&deg; S. They were now in the Bal&eacute;gg&eacute;
+country, and turned. It was all dense forest, they never saw the sun
+except when at a village, and then the villages were too far apart. The
+people were very fond of sheep, which they call ngomb&eacute;, or ox, and tusks
+are <a name="Page_56" id="Page_56" />never used. They went off to where an elephant had formerly been
+killed, and brought the tusks rotted and eaten or gnawed by &quot;D&eacute;r&eacute;&quot; (?)&mdash;a
+Rodent, probably the <i>Aulocaudatus Swindermanus</i>. Three large rivers
+were crossed, breast and chin deep; in one they were five hours, and a
+man in a small canoe went ahead sounding for water capable of being
+waded. Much water and mud in the forest. This report makes me thankful I
+did not go, for I should have seen nothing, and been worn out by fatigue
+and mud. They tell me that the River Metunda had black water, and took
+two hours to cross it, breast deep. They crossed about forty smaller
+rivers over the River Mohunga, breast deep. The River of Mbit&eacute; also is
+large. All along Lualaba and Metumb&eacute; the sheep have hairy dew-laps, no
+wool, Tartar breed (?), small thin tails.</p>
+
+<p>A broad belt of meadow-land, with no trees, lies along Lualaba, beyond
+that it is all dense forest, and trees so large, that one lying across
+the path is breast high: clearances exist only around the villages. The
+people are very expert smiths and weavers of the &quot;Lamba,&quot; and make fine
+large spears, knives, and needles. Market-places, called &quot;Tokos,&quot; are
+numerous all along Lualaba; to these the Barua of the other bank come
+daily in large canoes, bringing grass-cloth, salt, flour, cassava,
+fowls, goats, pigs, and slaves. The women are beautiful, with straight
+noses, and well-clothed; when the men of the districts are at war, the
+women take their goods to market as if at peace and are never molested:
+all are very keen traders, buying one thing with another, and changing
+back again, and any profit made is one of the enjoyments of life.</p>
+
+<p>I knew that my deserters hoped to be fed by Mohamad Bogharib when we
+left the camp at Mamohela, but he told them that he would not have them;
+this took them aback, but they went and lifted his ivory for him, and
+when a parley was thus brought about, talked him over, saying <a name="Page_57" id="Page_57" />that they
+would go to me, and do all I desired: they never came, but, as no one
+else would take them, I gave them three loads to go to Bambarr&eacute;; there
+they told Mohamad that I would not give them beads, and they did not
+like to steal; they were now trying to get his food by lies. I invited
+them three times to come and take beads, but having supplies of food
+from the camp women, they hoped to get the upper hand with me, and take
+what they liked by refusing to carry or work. Mohamad spoke long to
+them, but speaking mildly makes them imagine that the spokesman is
+afraid of them. They kept away from my work and would fain join
+Mohamad's, but he won't have them. I gave beads to all but the
+ringleaders. Their conduct looks as if a quarrel had taken place between
+us, but no such excuse have they.</p>
+
+<p>I am powerless, as they have left me, and think that they may do as they
+like, and the &quot;Manyuema are bad&quot; is the song. Their badness consists in
+being dreadfully afraid of guns, and the Arabs can do just as they like
+with them and their goods. If spears alone were used the Manyuema would
+be considered brave, for they fear no one, though he has many spears.
+They tell us truly &quot;that were it not for our guns not one of us would
+return to our own country.&quot; Moene-mokaia killed two Arab agents, and took
+their guns; this success led to their asserting, in answer to the
+remonstrances of the women, &quot;We shall take their goats, guns, and women
+from them.&quot; The chief, in reporting the matter to Moenemger(?) at Luamo,
+said, &quot;The Englishman told my people to go away as he did not like
+fighting, but my men were filled with 'malofu,' or palm-toddy, and
+refused to their own hurt.&quot; Elsewhere they made regular preparation to
+have a fight with Dugumb&eacute;'s people, just to see who was strongest&mdash;they
+with their spears and wooden shields, and the Arabs with what in
+derision they called tobacco-pipes (guns). They killed eight or nine
+Arabs.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58" />No traders seem ever to have come in before this. Banna brought copper
+and skins for tusks, and the Babisa and Baguha coarse beads. The Bavira
+are now enraged at seeing Ujijians pass into their ivory field, and no
+wonder; they took the tusks which cost them a few strings of beads, and
+received weight for weight in beads, thick brass wire, and loads of
+calico.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7" /><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Susi and Chuma say that the third tusk grew out from the
+base of the trunk, that is, midway between the other two.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III" /><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59" />CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. &quot;A drop of
+    comfort.&quot; Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The &quot;Sassassa bird.&quot; The disease
+    &quot;Safura.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<p>Bambarr&eacute;, <i>25th August, 1870.</i>&mdash;One of my waking dreams is that the
+legendary tales about Moses coming up into Inner Ethiopia with Merr his
+foster-mother, and founding a city which he called in her honour
+&quot;Meroe,&quot; may have a substratum of fact. He was evidently a man of
+transcendent genius, and we learn from the speech of St. Stephen that
+&quot;he was learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians, and was mighty in
+words and in deeds.&quot; His deeds must have been well known in Egypt, for
+&quot;he supposed that his brethren would have understood how that God by His
+hand would deliver them, but they understood not.&quot; His supposition could
+not be founded on his success in smiting a single Egyptian; he was too
+great a man to be elated by a single act of prowess, but his success on
+a large scale in Ethiopia afforded reasonable grounds for believing that
+his brethren would be proud of their countryman, and disposed to follow
+his leadership, but they were slaves. The notice <a name="Page_60" id="Page_60" />taken of the matter by
+Pharaoh showed that he was eyed by the great as a dangerous, if not
+powerful, man. He &quot;dwelt&quot; in Midian for some time before his gallant
+bearing towards the shepherds by the well, commended him to the priest
+or prince of the country. An uninteresting wife, and the want of
+intercourse with kindred spirits during the long forty years' solitude
+of a herdsman's life, seem to have acted injuriously on his spirits, and
+it was not till he had with Aaron struck terror into the Egyptian mind,
+that the &quot;man Moses&quot; again became &quot;very great in the eyes of Pharaoh and
+his servants.&quot; The Ethiopian woman whom he married could scarcely be the
+daughter of Renel or Jethro, for Midian was descended from Keturah,
+Abraham's concubine, and they were never considered Cushite or
+Ethiopian. If he left his wife in Egypt she would now be some fifty or
+sixty years old, and all the more likely to be despised by the proud
+prophetess Miriam as a daughter of Ham.</p>
+
+<p>I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, and if anything
+confirmatory of sacred history does remain, I pray to be guided
+thereunto. If the sacred chronology would thereby be confirmed, I would
+not grudge the toil and hardships, hunger and pain, I have endured&mdash;the
+irritable ulcers would only be discipline.</p>
+
+<p>Above the fine yellow clay schist of Manyuema the banks of Tanganyika
+reveal 50 feet of shingle mixed with red earth; above this at some parts
+great boulders lie; after this 60 feet of fine clay schist, then 5
+strata of gravel underneath, with a foot stratum of schist between them.
+The first seam of gravel is about 2 feet, the second 4 feet, and the
+lowest of all about 30 feet thick. The fine schist was formed in still
+water, but the shingle must have been produced in stormy troubled seas
+if not carried hither and thither by ice and at different epochs.</p>
+
+<p>This Manyuema country is unhealthy, not so much from <a name="Page_61" id="Page_61" />fever as from
+debility of the whole system, induced by damp, cold, and indigestion:
+this general weakness is ascribed by some to maize being the common
+food, it shows itself in weakness of bowels and choleraic purging. This
+may be owing to bad water, of which there is no scarcity, but it is so
+impregnated with dead vegetable matter as to have the colour of tea.
+Irritable ulcers fasten on any part abraded by accident, and it seems to
+be a spreading fungus, for the matter settling on any part near becomes
+a fresh centre of propagation. The vicinity of the ulcer is very tender,
+and it eats in frightfully if not allowed rest. Many slaves die of it,
+and its periodical discharges of bloody ichor makes me suspect it to be
+a development of fever. I have found lunar caustic useful: a plaister of
+wax, and a little finely-ground sulphate of copper is used by the Arabs,
+and so is cocoa-nut oil and butter. These ulcers are excessively
+intractable, there is no healing them before they eat into the bone,
+especially on the shins.</p>
+
+<p>Rheumatism is also common, and it cuts the natives off. The traders fear
+these diseases, and come to a stand if attacked, in order to use rest in
+the cure. &quot;Taema,&quot; or Tape-worm, is frequently met with, and no remedy
+is known among the Arabs and natives for it.</p>
+
+<p>[Searching in his closely-written pocket-books we find many little
+mementoes of his travels; such, for instance, as two or three tsetse
+flies pressed between the leaves of one book; some bees, some leaves and
+moths in another, but, hidden away in the pocket of the note-book which
+Livingstone used during the longest and most painful illness he ever
+underwent lies a small scrap of printed paper which tells a tale in its
+own simple way. On one side there is written in his well-known hand:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>&quot;Turn over and see a drop of comfort found when suffering<a name="Page_62" id="Page_62" />
+    from irritable eating ulcers on the feet in Manyuema,
+    August, 1870.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<p>[On the reverse we see that the scrap was evidently snipped off a list
+of books advertised at the end of some volume which, with the tea and
+other things sent to Ujiji, had reached him before setting out on this
+perilous journey. The &quot;drop of comfort&quot; is as follows:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>&quot;A NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESI AND ITS
+    TRIBUTARIES,</p>
+
+<p>    &quot;And the discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa.</p>
+
+<p>    &quot;<i>Fifth Thousand. With Map and Illustrations</i>. 8vo. 21s.</p>
+
+<p>    &quot;'Few achievements in our day have made a greater impression
+    than that of the adventurous missionary who unaided crossed the
+    Continent of Equatorial Africa. His unassuming simplicity, his
+    varied intelligence, his indomitable pluck, his steady religious
+    purpose, form a combination of qualities rarely found in one
+    man. By common consent, Dr. Livingstone has come to be regarded
+    as one of the most remarkable travellers of his own or of any
+    other age.'&mdash;<i>British Quarterly Review</i>.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<p>[The kindly pen of the reviewer served a good turn when there was &quot;no
+medicine&quot; but the following:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p>I was at last advised to try malachite, rubbed down with water on a
+stone, and applied with a feather: this is the only thing that has any
+beneficial effect.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th September, 1870.</i>&mdash;A Londa slave stole ten goats from the Manyuema;
+he was bound, but broke loose, and killed two goats yesterday. He was
+given to the Manyuema. The Balonda evidently sold their criminals only.
+He was shorn <a name="Page_63" id="Page_63" />of his ears and would have been killed, but Monangoi said:
+&quot;Don't let the blood of a freeman touch our soil.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>26th September, 1870.</i>&mdash;I am able now to report the ulcers healing. For
+eighty days I have been completely laid up by them, and it will be long
+ere the lost substance will be replaced. They kill many slaves; and an
+epidemic came to us which carried off thirty in our small camp.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8" /><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p>
+
+<p>[We come to a very important note under the next date. It may be
+necessary to remind the reader that when Livingstone left the
+neighbourhood of Lake Nyassa and bent his steps northwards, he believed
+that the &quot;Chambez&eacute;&quot; River, which the natives reported to be ahead of
+him, was in reality the Zambezi, for he held in his hand a map
+manufactured at home, and so conveniently manipulated as to clear up a
+great difficulty by simply inserting &quot;New Zambezi&quot; in the place of the
+Chambez&eacute;. As we now see, Livingstone handed back this addled
+geographical egg to its progenitor, who, we regret to say, has not only
+smashed it in wrath, but has treated us to so much of its savour in a
+pamphlet written against the deceased explorer, that few will care to
+turn over its leaves.</p>
+
+<p>However, the African traveller has a warning held up before him which
+may be briefly summed up in a caution to be on the look out for constant
+repetitions in one form or another of the same name. Endless confusion
+has arisen from Nyassas and Nyanzas, from Chiroas and Kiroas and
+Shirwas, to say nothing of Zambesis and Ohambez&eacute;s. <a name="Page_64" id="Page_64" />The natives are just
+as prone to perpetuate Zambezi or Lufira in Africa as we are to multiply
+our Avons and Ouses in England.]</p>
+
+<p><i>4th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;A trading party from Ujiji reports an epidemic
+raging between the coast and Ujiji, and very fatal. Syde bin Habib and
+Dugumb&eacute; are coming, and they have letters and perhaps people for me, so
+I remain, though the irritable ulcers are well-nigh healed. I fear that
+my packet for the coast may have fared badly, for the Lewal&eacute; has kept
+Musa Kamaal by him, so that no evidence against himself or the dishonest
+man Musa bin Saloom should be given: my box and guns, with despatches, I
+fear will never be sent. Zahor, to whom I gave calico to pay carriers,
+has been sent off to Lobemba.</p>
+
+<p>Mohamad sowed rice yesterday, and has to send his people (who were
+unsuccessful among the Bal&eacute;gga) away to the Metamb&eacute;, where they got
+ivory before.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot understand very well what a &quot;Theoretical Discoverer&quot; is. If
+anyone got up and declared in a public meeting that he was the
+theoretical discoverer of the philosopher's stone, or of perpetual
+motion for watches, should we not mark him as a little wrong in the
+head? So of the Nile sources. The Portuguese crossed the Chambez&eacute; some
+seventy years before I did, but to them it was a branch of the Zambezi
+and nothing more. Cooley put it down as the New Zambesi, and made it run
+backwards, up-hill, between 3000 and 4000 feet! I was misled by the
+similarity of names and a map, to think it the eastern branch of the
+Zambezi. I was told that it formed a large water in the south-west, this
+I readily believed to be the Liambai, in the Barots&eacute; Valley, and it took
+me eighteen months of toil to come back again to the Chambez&eacute; in Lake
+Bangweolo, and work out the error into which I was led&mdash;twenty-two
+months elapsed ere I got back to the point whence I set out <a name="Page_65" id="Page_65" />to explore
+Chambez&eacute;, Bangweolo, Luapula, Moero, and Lualaba. I spent two full years
+at this work, and the Chief Casembe was the first to throw light on the
+subject by saying, &quot;It is the same water here as in the Chambez&eacute;, the
+same in Moero and Lualaba, and one piece of water is just like another.
+Will you draw out calico from it that you wish to see it? As your chief
+desired you to see Bangweolo, go to it, and if in going north you see a
+travelling party, join it; if not, come back to me, and I will send you
+safely by my path along Moero.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The central Lualaba I would fain call the Lake River Webb; the western,
+the Lake River Young. The Lufira and Lualaba West form a Lake, the
+native name of which, &quot;Chibungo,&quot; must give way to Lake Lincoln. I wish
+to name the fountain of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, Palmerston
+Fountain, and adding that of Sir Bartle Frere to the fountain of Lufira,
+three names of men who have done more to abolish slavery and the
+slave-trade than any of their contemporaries.</p>
+
+<p>[Through the courtesy of the Earl of Derby we are able to insert a
+paragraph here which occurs in a despatch written to Her Majesty's
+Foreign Office by Dr. Livingstone a few weeks before his death. He
+treats more fully in it upon the different names that he gave to the
+most important rivers and lakes which he discovered, and we see how he
+cherished to the last the fond memory of old well-tried friendships, and
+the great examples of men like President Lincoln and Lord Palmerston.]</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I have tried to honour the name of the good Lord Palmerston, in fond
+remembrance of his long and unwearied labour for the abolition of the
+Slave Trade; and I venture to place the name of the good and noble
+Lincoln on the Lake, in gratitude to him who gave freedom to 4,000,000
+of slaves. These two great men are no longer among us; but <a name="Page_66" id="Page_66" />it pleases
+me, here in the wilds, to place, as it were, my poor little garland of
+love on their tombs. Sir Bartle Frere having accomplished the grand work
+of abolishing slavery in Scindiah, Upper India, deserves the gratitude
+of every lover of human kind.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Private friendship guided me in the selection of other names where
+distinctive epithets were urgently needed. 'Paraffin' Young, one of my
+teachers in chemistry, raised himself to be a merchant prince by his
+science and art, and has shed pure white light in many lowly cottages,
+and in some rich palaces. Leaving him and chemistry, I went away to try
+and bless others. I, too, have shed light of another kind, and am fain
+to believe that I have performed a small part in the grand revolution
+which our Maker has been for ages carrying on, by multitudes of
+conscious, and many unconscious agents, all over the world. Young's
+friendship never faltered.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Oswell and Webb were fellow-travellers, and mighty hunters. Too much
+engrossed myself with mission-work to hunt, except for the children's
+larder, when going to visit distant tribes, I relished the sight of fair
+stand-up fights by my friends with the large denizens of the forest, and
+admired the true Nimrod class for their great courage, truthfulness, and
+honour. Being a warm lover of natural history, the entire butcher tribe,
+bent only on making 'a bag,' without regard to animal suffering, have
+not a single kindly word from me. An Ambonda man, named Mokantju, told
+Oswell and me in 1851 that the Liambai and Kafu&eacute; rose as one fountain
+and then separated, but after a long course came together again in the
+Zambezi above Zumbo.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>8th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;Mbarawa and party came yesterday from Katomba at
+Mamohela. He reports that Jangeong&eacute; (?) with Moeneokela's men had been
+killing people of the Metamba or forest, and four of his people were
+slain. He intended <a name="Page_67" id="Page_67" />fighting, hence his desire to get rid of me when I
+went north: he got one and a half tusks, but little ivory, but Katomba's
+party got fifty tusks; Abdullah had got two tusks, and had also been
+fighting, and Katomba had sent a fighting party down to Lolind&eacute;; plunder
+and murder is Ujijian trading. Mbarawa got his ivory on the Lindi, or as
+he says, &quot;Urindi,&quot; which has black water, and is very large: an arrow
+could not be shot across its stream, 400 or 500 yards wide, it had to be
+crossed by canoes, and goes into Lualaba. It is curious that all think
+it necessary to say to me, &quot;The Manyuema are bad, very bad;&quot; the Bal&eacute;gga
+will be let alone, because they can fight, and we shall hear nothing of
+their badness.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;I came out of my hut to-day, after being confined
+to it since the 22nd July, or eighty days, by irritable ulcers on the
+feet. The last twenty days I suffered from fever, which reduced my
+strength, taking away my voice, and purging me. My appetite was good,
+but the third mouthful of any food caused nausea and vomiting&mdash;purging
+took place and profuse sweating; it was choleraic, and how many Manyuema
+died of it we could not ascertain. While this epidemic raged here, we
+heard of cholera terribly severe on the way to the coast. I am thankful
+to feel myself well.</p>
+
+<p>Only one ulcer is open, the size of a split pea: malachite was the
+remedy most useful, but the beginning of the rains may have helped the
+cure, as it does to others; copper rubbed down is used when malachite
+cannot be had. We expect Syde bin Habib soon: he will take to the river,
+and I hope so shall I. The native traders reached people who had horns
+of oxen, got from the left bank of the Lualaba. Katomba's people got
+most ivory, namely, fifty tusks; the others only four. The Metamba or
+forest is of immense extent, and there is room for much ivory to be
+picked up at five or seven bracelets of copper per tusk, if the slaves
+sent will only be merciful. The nine villages destroyed, <a name="Page_68" id="Page_68" />and 100 men
+killed, by Katomba's slaves at Nasangwa's, were all about a string of
+beads fastened to a powder horn, which a Manyuema man tried in vain to
+steal!</p>
+
+<p>Katomba gets twenty-five of the fifty tusks brought by his people. We
+expect letters, and perhaps men by Syde bin Habib. No news from the
+coast had come to Ujiji, save a rumour that some one was building a
+large house at Bagamoio, but whether French or English no one can say:
+possibly the erection of a huge establishment on the mainland may be a
+way of laboriously proving that it is more healthy than the island. It
+will take a long time to prove by stone and lime that the higher lands,
+200 miles inland, are better still, both for longevity and work.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9" /><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> I am
+in agony for news from home; all I feel sure of now is that my friends
+will all wish me to complete my task. I join in the wish now, as better
+than doing it in vain afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyuema hoeing is little better than scraping the soil, and cutting
+through the roots of grass and weeds, by a horizontal motion of the hoe
+or knife; they leave the roots of maize, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes,
+and dura, to find their way into the rich soft soil, and well they
+succeed, so there is no need for deep ploughing: the ground-nuts and
+cassava hold their own against grass for years, and bananas, if cleared
+of weeds, yield abundantly. Mohamad sowed rice just outside the camp
+without any advantage being secured by the vicinity of a rivulet, and it
+yielded for<a name="Page_69" id="Page_69" />one measure of seed one hundred and twenty measures of
+increase. This season he plants along the rivulet called &quot;Bond&eacute;,&quot; and on
+the damp soil.</p>
+
+<p>The rain-water does not percolate far, for the clay retains it about two
+feet beneath the surface: this is a cause of unhealthiness to man. Fowls
+and goats have been cut off this year in large numbers by an epidemic.</p>
+
+<p>The visits of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Manyuema to be a
+severe infliction, for the huts are appropriated, and no leave asked:
+firewood, pots, baskets, and food are used without scruple, and anything
+that pleases is taken away; usually the women flee into the forest, and
+return to find the whole place a litter of broken food. I tried to pay
+the owners of the huts in which I slept, but often in vain, for they hid
+in the forest, and feared to come near. It was common for old men to
+come forward to me with a present of bananas as I passed, uttering with
+trembling accents, &quot;Bolongo, Bolongo!&quot; (&quot;Friendship, Friendship!&quot;), and
+if I stopped to make a little return present, others ran for plantains
+or palm-toddy. The Arabs' men ate up what they demanded, without one
+word of thanks, and turned round to me and said, &quot;They are bad, don't
+give them anything.&quot; &quot;Why, what badness is there in giving food?&quot; I
+replied. &quot;Oh! they like you, but hate us.&quot; One man gave me an iron ring,
+and all seemed inclined to be friendly, yet they are undoubtedly
+bloodthirsty to other Manyuema, and kill each other.</p>
+
+<p>I am told that journeying inland the safe way to avoid tsetse in going
+to Mer&eacute;r&eacute;'s is to go to Mdong&eacute;, Makind&eacute;, Zungom&eacute;ro, Masapi, Irundu,
+Nyangor&eacute;, then turn north to the Nyannugams, and thence to Ny&eacute;mb&eacute;, and
+so on south to Mer&eacute;r&eacute;'s. A woman chief lies in the straight way to
+Mer&eacute;r&eacute;, but no cattle live in the land. Another insect lights on the
+animals, and when licked off bites the tongue, or breeds, and is fatal
+as well as tsetse: it is larger in size. Tipo Tipo <a name="Page_70" id="Page_70" />and Syde bin Ali
+come to Ny&eacute;mb&eacute;, thence to Nsama's, cross Lualaba at Mpw&eacute;to's, follow
+left bank of that river till they cross the next Lualaba, and so into
+Lunda of Matiamvo. Much ivory may be obtained by this course, and it
+shows enterprise. Syde bin Habib and Dugumb&eacute; will open up the Lualaba
+this year, and I am hoping to enter the West Lualaba, or Young's River,
+and if possible go up to Katanga. The Lord be my guide and helper. I
+feel the want of medicine strongly, almost as much as the want of men.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;Moenemgoi, the chief, came to tell me that
+Monamyembo had sent five goats to Lohombo to get a charm to kill him.
+&quot;Would the English and Kolokolo (Mohamad) allow him to be killed while
+they were here?&quot; I said that it was a false report, but he believes it
+firmly: Monamyembo sent his son to assure us that he was slandered, but
+thus quarrels and bloodshed feuds arise!</p>
+
+<p>The great want of the Manyuema is national life, of this they have none:
+each headman is independent of every other. Of industry they have no
+lack, and the villagers are orderly towards each other, but they go no
+further. If a man of another district ventures among them, it is at his
+peril; he is not regarded with more favour as a Manyuema than one of a
+herd of buffaloes is by the rest: and he is almost sure to be killed.</p>
+
+<p>Moen&eacute;kuss had more wisdom than his countrymen: his eldest son went over
+to Monamyembo (one of his subjects) and was there murdered by five spear
+wounds. The old chief went and asked who had slain his son. All
+professed ignorance, whilst some suggested &quot;perhaps the Bahombo did it,&quot;
+so he went off to them, but they also denied it and laid it at the door
+of Monamdenda, from whom he got the same reply when he arrived at his
+place&mdash;no one knew, and so the old man died. This, though he was
+heartbroken, was called witchcraft by Monamyembo. Eleven people were
+murdered, and after this cruel man was punished he sent a goat with <a name="Page_71" id="Page_71" />the
+confession that he had killed Moen&eacute;kuss' son. This son had some of the
+father's wisdom: the others he never could get to act like men of sense.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;Bambarr&eacute;. The ringleading deserters sent Chuma to
+say that they were going with the people of Mohamad (who left to-day),
+to the Metamba, but I said that I had nought to say to them. They would
+go now to the Metamba, whom, on deserting, they said they so much
+feared, and they think nothing of having left me to go with only three
+attendants, and get my feet torn to pieces in mud and sand. They
+probably meant to go back to the women at Mamohela, who fed them in the
+absence of their husbands. They were told by Mohamad that they must not
+follow his people, and he gave orders to bind them, and send them back
+if they did. They think that no punishment will reach them whatever they
+do: they are freemen, and need not work or do anything but beg.
+&quot;English,&quot; they call themselves, and the Arabs fear them, though the
+eagerness with which they engaged in slave-hunting showed them to be
+genuine niggers.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;The first heavy rain of this season fell
+yesterday afternoon. It is observable that the permanent halt to which
+the Manyuema have come is not affected by the appearance of superior men
+among them: they are stationary, and improvement is unknown. Moen&eacute;kuss
+paid smiths to teach his sons, and they learned to work in copper and
+iron, but he never could get them to imitate his own generous and
+obliging deportment to others; he had to reprove them perpetually for
+mean shortsightedness, and when he died he virtually left no successor,
+for his sons are both narrowminded, mean, shortsighted creatures,
+without dignity or honour. All they can say of their forefathers is that
+they came from Lualaba up Luamo, then to Luelo, and thence here. The
+name seems to mean &quot;forest people&quot;&mdash;<i>Manyuema</i>.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72" />The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at Kanying&eacute;r&eacute;'s, and went
+N. and N.N.E. They found the country becoming more and more mountainous,
+till at last, approaching Morer&eacute;, it was perpetually up and down. They
+slept at a village on the top, and could send for water to the bottom
+only once, it took so much time to descend and ascend. The rivers all
+flowed into Kerer&eacute; or Lower Tanganyika. There is a hot fountain whose
+water could not be touched nor stones stood upon. The Bal&eacute;gga were very
+unfriendly, and collected in thousands. &quot;We come to buy ivory,&quot; said
+Hassani, &quot;and if there is none we go away.&quot; &quot;Nay,&quot; shouted they, &quot;you
+come to die here!&quot; and then they shot with arrows; when musket-balls
+were returned they fled, and would not come to receive the captives.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;Bambarr&eacute;. In this journey I have endeavoured to
+follow with unswerving fidelity the line of duty. My course has been an
+even one, turning neither to the right hand nor to the left, though my
+route has been tortuous enough. All the hardship, hunger, and toil were
+met with the full conviction that I was right in persevering to make a
+complete work of the exploration of the sources of the Nile. Mine has
+been a calm, hopeful endeavour to do the work that has been given me to
+do, whether I succeed or whether I fail. The prospect of death in
+pursuing what I knew to be right did not make me veer to one side or the
+other. I had a strong presentiment during the first three years that I
+should never live through the enterprise, but it weakened as I came near
+to the end of the journey, and an eager desire to discover any evidence
+of the great Moses having visited these parts bound me, spell-bound me,
+I may say, for if I could bring to light anything to confirm the Sacred
+Oracles, I should not grudge one whit all the labour expended. I have to
+go down the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake River, then up the Western or
+Young's <a name="Page_73" id="Page_73" />Lake River to Katanga head waters and then retire. I pray that
+it may be to my native home.</p>
+
+<p>Syde bin Habib, Dugumb&eacute;, Juma Merikano, Abdullah Masendi are coming in
+with 700 muskets, and an immense store of beads, copper, &amp;c. They will
+cross Lualaba and trade west of it: I wait for them because they may
+have letters for me.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;Moenemokata, who has travelled further than most
+Arabs, said to me, &quot;If a man goes with a good-natured, civil tongue, he
+may pass through the worst people in Africa unharmed:&quot; this is true, but
+time also is required: one must not run through a country, but give the
+people time to become acquainted with you, and let their first fears
+subside.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th October, 1870.</i>&mdash;The Manyuema buy their wives from each other; a
+pretty girl brings ten goats. I saw one brought home to-day; she came
+jauntily with but one attendant, and her husband walking behind. They
+stop five days, then go back and remain other five days at home: then
+the husband fetches her again. Many are pretty, and have perfect forms
+and limbs.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st October, 1870.</i>&mdash;Monangoi, of Luamo, married to the sister of
+Moen&eacute;kuss, came some time ago to beg that Kanyinger&eacute; might be attacked
+by Mohamad's people: no fault has he, &quot;but he is bad.&quot; Monangoi, the
+chief here, offered two tusks to effect the same thing; on refusal, he
+sends the tusks to Katomba, and may get his countryman spoiled by him.
+&quot;He is bad,&quot; is all they can allege as a reason. Meantime this chief
+here caught a slave who escaped, a prisoner from Moene-mokia's, and sold
+him or her to Moene-mokia for thirty spears and some knives; when asked
+about this captive, he said, &quot;She died:&quot; it was simply theft, but he
+does not consider himself bad.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd November, 1870.</i>&mdash;The plain without trees that flanks the Lualaba
+on the right bank, called Mbuga, is densely <a name="Page_74" id="Page_74" />peopled, and the
+inhabitants are all civil and friendly. From fifty to sixty large canoes
+come over from the left bank daily to hold markets; these people too
+&quot;are good,&quot; but the dwellers in the Metamba or dense forest are
+treacherous and murder a single person without scruple: the dead body is
+easily concealed, while on the plain all would become aware of it.</p>
+
+<p>I long with intense desire to move on and finish my work, I have also an
+excessive wish to find anything that may exist proving the visit of the
+great Moses and the ancient kingdom of Tirhaka, but I pray give me just
+what pleases Thee my Lord, and make me submissive to Thy will in all
+things.</p>
+
+<p>I received information about Mr. Young's search trip up the Shir&eacute; and
+Nyassa only in February 1870, and now take the first opportunity of
+offering hearty thanks in a despatch to Her Majesty's Government, and
+all concerned in kindly inquiring after my fate.</p>
+
+<p>Musa and his companions were fair average specimens for heartlessness
+and falsehood of the lower classes of Mohamadans in East Africa. When we
+were on the Shir&eacute; we used to swing the ship into mid-stream every night,
+in order to let the air which was put in motion by the water, pass from
+end to end. Musa's brother-in-law stepped into the water one morning, in
+order to swim off for a boat, and was seized by a crocodile, the poor
+fellow held up his hand imploringly, but Musa and the rest allowed him
+to perish. On my denouncing his heartlessness, Musa-replied, &quot;Well, no
+one tell him go in there.&quot; When at Senna a slave woman was seized by a
+crocodile: four Makololo rushed in unbidden, and rescued her, though
+they knew nothing about her: from long intercourse with both Johanna men
+and Makololo I take these incidents as typical of the two races. Those
+of mixed blood possess the vices of both races, and the virtues of
+neither.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75" />A gentleman of superior abilities<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10" /><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> has devoted life and fortune to
+elevate the Johanna men, but fears that they are &quot;an unimprovable race.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan of Zanzibar, who knows his people better than any stranger,
+cannot entrust any branch of his revenue to even the better class of his
+subjects, but places all his customs, income, and money affairs, in the
+hands of Banians from India, and his father did before him.</p>
+
+<p>When the Mohamadan gentlemen of Zanzibar are asked &quot;why their sovereign
+places all his pecuniary affairs and fortune in the hands of aliens?&quot;
+they frankly avow that if he allowed any Arab to farm his customs, he
+would receive nothing but a crop of lies.</p>
+
+<p>Burton had to dismiss most of his people at Ujiji for dishonesty:
+Speke's followers deserted at the first approach of danger. Musa fled in
+terror on hearing a false report from a half-caste Arab about the
+Mazitu, 150 miles distant, though I promised to go due west, and not
+turn to the north till far past the beat of that tribe. The few
+liberated slaves with whom I went on had the misfortune to be Mohamadan
+slaves in boyhood, but did fairly till we came into close contact with
+Moslems again. A black Arab was released from a twelve years' bondage by
+Casembe, through my own influence and that of the Sultan's letter: we
+travelled together for a time, and he sold the favours of his female
+slaves to my people for goods which he perfectly well knew were stolen
+from me. He received my four deserters, and when I had gone off to Lake
+Bangweolo with only four attendants, the rest wished to follow, but he
+dissuaded them by saying that I had gone into a country where there was
+war: he was the direct cause of all my difficulties with these liberated
+slaves, but judged by the East African Moslem standard, as he ought to
+be, and not by ours, he is<a name="Page_76" id="Page_76" />a very good man, and I did not think it
+prudent to come to a rupture with the old blackguard.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Laba&quot; means in the Manyuema dialect &quot;medicine;&quot; a charm, &quot;boganga:&quot;
+this would make Lualaba mean the River of Medicine or charms. Hassani
+thought that it meant &quot;great,&quot; because it seemed to mean flowing greatly
+or grandly.</p>
+
+<p>Casembe caught all the slaves that escaped from Mohamad, and placed them
+in charge of Fungafunga; so there is little hope for fugitive slaves so
+long as Casembe lives: this act is to the Arabs very good: he is very
+sensible, and upright besides.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd November, 1870.</i>&mdash;Got a Kondohondo, the large double-billed
+Hornbill (the <i>Buceros cristata</i>), Kakomira, of the Shir&eacute;, and the
+Sassassa of Bambarr&eacute;. It is good eating, and has fat of an orange tinge,
+like that of the zebra; I keep the bill to make a spoon of it.</p>
+
+<p>An ambassador at Stamboul or Constantinople was shown a hornbill spoon,
+and asked if it were really the bill of the Phoenix. He replied that he
+did not know, but he had a friend in London who knew all these sort of
+things, so the Turkish ambassador in London brought the spoon to
+Professor Owen. He observed something in the divergences of the fibres
+of the horn which he knew before, and went off into the Museum of the
+College of Surgeons, and brought a preserved specimen of this very bird.
+&quot;God is great&mdash;God is great,&quot; said the Turk, &quot;this is the Phoenix of
+which we have heard so often.&quot; I heard the Professor tell this at a
+dinner of the London Hunterian Society in 1857.</p>
+
+<p>There is no great chief in Manyuema or Bal&eacute;gga; all are petty headmen,
+each of whom considers himself a chief: it is the ethnic state, with no
+cohesion between the different portions of the tribe. Murder cannot be
+punished except by a war, in which many fall, and the feud is made
+worse, and transmitted to their descendants.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77" />The heathen philosophers were content with mere guesses at the future
+of the soul. The elder prophets were content with the Divine support in
+life and in death. The later prophets advance further, as Isaiah: &quot;Thy
+dead men shall live, together with my dead body shall they arise. Awake,
+and sing, ye that dwell in the dust: for thy dew is as the dew of herbs.
+The earth also shall cast out her dead.&quot; This, taken with the sublime
+spectacle of Hades in the fourteenth chapter, seems a forecast of the
+future, but Jesus instructed Mary and her sister and Lazarus; and Martha
+without hesitation spoke of the resurrection at the last day as a
+familiar doctrine, far in advance of the Mosaic law in which she had
+been reared.</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs tell me that Monyungo, a chief, was sent for five years among
+the Watuta to learn their language and ways, and he sent his two sons
+and a daughter to Zanzibar to school. He kills many of his people, and
+says they are so bad that if not killed they would murder strangers.
+Once they were unruly, when he ordered some of them to give their huts
+to Mohamad; on refusing, he put fire to them, and they soon called out,
+&quot;Let them alone; we will retire.&quot; He dresses like an Arab, and has ten
+loaded guns at his sitting-place, four pistols, two swords, several
+spears, and two bundles of the Batuta spears: he laments that his father
+filed his teeth when he was young. The name of his very numerous people
+is Bawungu, country Urungu: his other names are Ironga, Mohamu.</p>
+
+<p>The Basango, on the other hand, consider their chief as a deity, and
+fear to say aught wrong, lest he should hear them: they fear both before
+him and when out of sight.</p>
+
+<p>The father of Mer&eacute;r&eacute; never drank pombe or beer, and assigned as a reason
+that a great man who had charge of people's lives should never become
+intoxicated so as to do evil. Bang&eacute; he never smoked, but in council
+smelled at a bunch of it, in order to make his people believe that it
+had a great <a name="Page_78" id="Page_78" />effect on him. Mer&eacute;r&eacute; drinks pombe freely, but never uses
+bang&eacute;: he alone kills sheep; he is a lover of mutton and beef, but
+neither goats nor fowls are touched by him.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th November, 1870.</i>&mdash;I sent to Lohombo for dura, and planted some
+Nyumbo. I long excessively to be away and finish my work by the two
+Lacustrine rivers, Lualaba of Webb and Young, but wait only for Syde and
+Dugumb&eacute;, who may have letters, and as I do not intend to return hither,
+but go through Karagw&eacute; homewards, I should miss them altogether. I groan
+and am in bitterness at the delay, but thus it is: I pray for help to do
+what is right, but sorely am I perplexed, and grieved and mourn: I
+cannot give up making a complete work of the exploration.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th November, 1870.</i>&mdash;A party of Katomba's men arrived on their way to
+Ujiji for carriers, they report that a foray was made S.W. of Mamohela
+to recover four guns, which were captured from Katomba; three were
+recovered, and ten of the Arab party slain. The people of Manyuema
+fought very fiercely with arrows, and not till many were killed and
+others mutilated would they give up the guns; they probably expected
+this foray, and intended to fight till the last. They had not gone in
+search of ivory while this was enacting, consequently Mohamad's men have
+got the start of them completely, by going along Lualaba to Kasongo's,
+and then along the western verge of the Metamba or forest to Loind&eacute; or
+Rindi River. The last men sent took to fighting instead of trading, and
+returned empty; the experience gained thus, and at the south-west, will
+probably lead them to conclude that the Manyuema are not to be shot down
+without reasonable cause. They have sown rice and maize at Mamohela, but
+cannot trade now where they got so much ivory before. Five men were
+killed at Rindi or Loind&eacute;, and one escaped: the reason of this outbreak
+by men who have been so peaceable is not divulged, but anyone seeing the
+wholesale plunder to which the houses and gardens were <a name="Page_79" id="Page_79" />subject can
+easily guess the rest. Mamohela's camp had several times been set on
+fire at night by the tribes which suffered assault, but did not effect
+all that was intended. The Arabs say that the Manyuema now understand
+that every gunshot does not kill; the next thing they will learn will
+be to grapple in close quarters in the forest, where their spears will
+outmatch the guns in the hands of slaves, it will follow, too, that no
+one will be able to pass through this country; this is the usual course
+of Suaheli trading; it is murder and plunder, and each slave as he rises
+in his owner's favour is eager to show himself a mighty man of valour,
+by cold-blooded killing of his countrymen: if they can kill a
+fellow-nigger, their pride boils up. The conscience is not enlightened
+enough to cause uneasiness, and Islam gives less than the light of
+nature.</p>
+
+<p>I am grievously tired of living here. Mohamad is as kind as he can be,
+but to sit idle or give up before I finish my work are both intolerable;
+I cannot bear either, yet I am forced to remain by want of people.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th November, 1870.</i>&mdash;I wrote to Mohamad bin Saleh at Ujiji for
+letters and medicines to be sent in a box of China tea, which is half
+empty: if he cannot get carriers for the long box itself, then he is to
+send these, the articles of which I stand in greatest need.</p>
+
+<p>The relatives of a boy captured at Monanyemb&eacute; brought three goats to
+redeem him: he is sick and emaciated; one goat was rejected. The boy
+shed tears when he saw his grandmother, and the father too, when his
+goat was rejected. &quot;So I returned, and considered all the oppressions
+that are done under the sun: and behold the tears of such as were
+oppressed, and they had no comforter; and on the side of their
+oppressors there was power; but they had no comforter.&quot;&mdash;Eccles. iv. 1.
+The relations were told either to bring the goat, or let the boy die;
+this was hard-hearted. At Mamohela ten goats are demanded for a captive,
+and <a name="Page_80" id="Page_80" />given too; here three are demanded. &quot;He that is higher than the
+highest regardeth, and there be higher than they. Marvel not at the
+matter.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I did not write to the coast, for I suspect that the Lewal&eacute; Syde bin
+Salem Buraschid destroys my letters in order to quash the affair of
+robbery by his man Saloom, he kept the other thief, Kamaels, by him for
+the same purpose. Mohamad writes to Bin Saleh to say that I am here and
+well; that I sent a large packet of letters in June 1869, with money,
+and received neither an answer, nor my box from Unyanyemb&eacute;, and this is
+to be communicated to the Consul by a friend at Zanzibar. If I wrote, it
+would only be to be burned; this is as far as I can see at present: the
+friend who will communicate with the Consul is Mohamad bin Abdullah the
+Wuzeer, Seyd Suleiman is the Lewal&eacute; of the Governor of Zanzibar,
+Suleiman bin Ali or <i>Sheikh</i> Suleiman the Secretary.</p>
+
+<p>The Mamohela horde is becoming terrified, for every party going to trade
+has lost three or four men, and in the last foray they saw that the
+Manyuema can fight, for they killed ten men: they will soon refuse to go
+among those whom they have forced to become enemies.</p>
+
+<p>One of the Bazula invited a man to go with him to buy ivory; he went
+with him, and on getting into the Zulas country the stranger was asked
+by the guide if his gun killed men, and how it did it: whilst he was
+explaining the matter he was stabbed to death. No one knows the reason
+of this, but the man probably lost some of his relations elsewhere: this
+is called murder without cause. When Syde and Dugumb&eacute; come, I hope to
+get men and a canoe to finish my work among those who have not been
+abused by Ujijians, and still retain their natural kindness of
+disposition; none of the people are ferocious without cause; and the
+sore experience which they gain from slaves with guns in their hands
+usually ends in sullen hatred of all strangers.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81" />The education of the world is a terrible one, and it has come down with
+relentless rigour on Africa from the most remote times! What the African
+will become after this awfully hard lesson is learned, is among the
+future developments of Providence. When He, who is higher than the
+highest, accomplishes His purposes, this will be a wonderful country,
+and again something like what it was of old, when Zerah and Tirhaka
+flourished, and were great.</p>
+
+<p>The soil of Manyuema is clayey and remarkably fertile, the maize sown in
+it rushes up to seed, and everything is in rank profusion if only it be
+kept clear of weeds, but the Bambarr&eacute; people are indifferent
+cultivators, planting maize, bananas and plantains, and ground-nuts
+only&mdash;no dura, a little cassava, no pennisetum, meleza, pumpkins,
+melons, or nyumbo, though they all flourish in other districts: a few
+sweet potatoes appear, but elsewhere all these native grains and roots
+are abundant and cheap. No one would choose this as a residence, except
+for the sake of Moen&eacute;kuss. Oil is very dear, while at Lualaba a gallon
+may be got for a single string of beads, and beans, ground-nuts,
+cassava, maize, plantains in rank profusion. The Bal&eacute;gga, like the
+Bambarr&eacute; people, trust chiefly to plantains and ground-nuts; to play
+with parrots is their great amusement.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th November, 1870.</i>&mdash;The men sent over to Lohombo, about thirty miles
+off, got two and a half loads of dura for a small goat, but the people
+were unwilling to trade. &quot;If we encourage Arabs to trade, they will come
+and kill us with their guns,&quot; so they said, and it is true: the slaves
+are overbearing, and when this is resented, then slaughter ensues. I got
+some sweet plantains and a little oil, which is useful in cooking, and
+with salt, passes for butter on bread, but all were unwilling to trade.
+Monangoi was over near Lohombo, and heard of a large trading party
+coming, and not far off; this may be Syde and Dugumb&eacute;, but reports are
+often false. When Katomba's men were on the late foray, they <a name="Page_82" id="Page_82" />were
+completely overpowered, and compelled by the Manyuema to lay down their
+guns and powder-horns, on pain of being instantly despatched by bow-shot:
+they were mostly slaves, who could only draw the trigger and make a
+noise. Katomba had to rouse out all the Arabs who could shoot, and when
+they came they killed many, and gained the lost day; the Manyuema did
+not kill anyone who laid down his gun and powder-horn. This is the
+beginning of an end which was easily perceived when it became not a
+trading, but a foray of a murdering horde of savages.</p>
+
+<p>The foray above mentioned was undertaken by Katomba for twenty goats
+from Kassessa!&mdash;ten men lost for twenty goats, but they will think twice
+before they try another foray.</p>
+
+<p>A small bird follows the &quot;Sassassa&quot; or <i>Buceros cristata</i>. It screams
+and pecks at his tail till he discharges the contents of his bowels, and
+then leaves him; it is called &quot;play&quot; by the natives, and by the Suaheli
+&quot;Utan&eacute;&quot; or &quot;Msaha&quot;&mdash;fun or wit; he follows other birds in the same
+merciless way, screaming and pecking to produce purging; Manyuema call
+this bird &quot;Mambambwa.&quot; The buffalo bird warns its big friend of danger,
+by calling &quot;Chachacha,&quot; and the rhinoceros bird cries out, &quot;Tye, tye,
+tye, tye,&quot; for the same purpose. The Manyuema call the buffalo bird
+&quot;Mojela,&quot; and the Suaheli, &quot;Chassa.&quot; A climbing plant in Africa is known
+as &quot;Ntulungop&eacute;,&quot; which mixed with flour of dura kills mice; they swarm
+in our camp and destroy everything, but Ntulungop&eacute; is not near this.</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs tell me that one dollar a day is ample for provisions for a
+large family at Zanzibar; the food consists of wheat, rice, flesh of
+goats or ox, fowls, bananas, milk, butter, sugar, eggs, mangoes, and
+potatoes. Ambergris is boiled in milk and sugar, and used by the Hindoos
+as a means of increasing blood in their systems; a small quantity is a
+dose; it is found along the shore of the sea at Barawa or <a name="Page_83" id="Page_83" />Brava, and at
+Madagascar, as if the sperm whale got rid of it while alive. Lamoo or
+Amu is wealthy, and well supplied with everything, as grapes, peaches,
+wheat, cattle, camels, &amp;c. The trade is chiefly with Madagascar: the
+houses are richly furnished with furniture, dishes from India, &amp;c. At
+Garaganza there are hundreds of Arab traders, there too all fruits
+abound, and the climate is healthy, from its elevation. Why cannot we
+missionaries imitate these Arabs in living on heights?</p>
+
+<p><i>24th November, 1870.</i>&mdash;Herpes is common at the plantations in Zanzibar,
+but the close crowding of the houses in the town they think prevents it;
+the lips and mouth are affected, and constipation sets in for three
+days, all this is cured by going over to the mainland. Affections of the
+lungs are healed by residence at Bariwa or Brava, and also on the
+mainland. The Tafori of Halfani took my letters from Ujiji, but who the
+person employed is I do not know.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th November, 1870.</i>&mdash;<i>Safura</i> is the name of the disease of clay or
+earth eating, at Zanzibar; it often affects slaves, and the clay is said
+to have a pleasant odour to the eaters, but it is not confined to
+slaves, nor do slaves eat in order to kill themselves; it is a diseased
+appetite, and rich men who have plenty to eat are often subject to it.
+The feet swell, flesh is lost, and the face looks haggard; the patient
+can scarcely walk for shortness of breath and weakness, and he continues
+eating till he dies. Here many slaves are now diseased with safura; the
+clay built in walls is preferred, and Manyuema women when pregnant often
+eat it. The cure is effected by drastic purges composed as follows: old
+vinegar of cocoa-trees is put into a large basin, and old slag red-hot
+cast into it, then &quot;Money&eacute;,&quot; asafoetida, half a rupee in weight,
+copperas, sulph. ditto: a small glass of this, fasting morning and
+evening, produces vomiting and purging of black dejections, this is
+continued for seven days; no meat is to be eaten, but only old rice or
+dura and <a name="Page_84" id="Page_84" />water; a fowl in course of time: no fish, butter, eggs, or
+beef for two years on pain of death. Mohamad's father had skill in the
+cure, and the above is his prescription. Safura is thus a disease <i>per
+se</i>; it is common in Manyuema, and makes me in a measure content to wait
+for my medicines; from the description, inspissated bile seems to be the
+agent of blocking up the gall-duct and duodenum and the clay or earth
+may be nature trying to clear it away: the clay appears unchanged in the
+stools, and in large quantity. A Banyamwezi carrier, who bore an
+enormous load of copper, is now by safura scarcely able to walk; he took
+it at Lualaba where food is abundant, and he is contented with his lot.
+Squeeze a finger-nail, and if no blood appears beneath it, safura is the
+cause of the bloodlessness.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8" /><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> A precisely similar epidemic broke out at the settlement at
+Magomero, in which fifty-four of the slaves liberated by Dr. Livingstone
+and Bishop Mackenzie died. This disease is by far the most fatal scourge
+the natives suffer from, not even excepting small-pox. It is common
+throughout Tropical Africa. We believe that some important facts have
+recently been brought to light regarding it, and we can only trust
+sincerely that the true nature of the disorder will be known in time, so
+that it may be successfully treated: at present change of air and high
+feeding on a meat diet are the best remedies we know.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9" /><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Dr. Livingstone never ceased to impress upon Europeans the
+utter necessity of living on the high table-lands of the interior,
+rather than on the sea-board or the banks of the great arterial rivers.
+Men may escape death in an unhealthy place, but the system is enfeebled
+and energy reduced to the lowest ebb. Under such circumstances life
+becomes a misery, and important results can hardly be looked for when
+one's vitality is preoccupied in wrestling with the unhealthiness of the
+situation, day and night.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10" /><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Mr. John Sunley, of Pomon&eacute;, Johanna, an island in the
+Comoro group.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV" /><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85" />CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Mer&eacute;r&eacute;. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarr&eacute;. Go&icirc;tre.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Parts at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They &quot;want to
+    eat a white one.&quot; Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nyangw&eacute;. Reaches the Lualaba.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><i>6th December, 1870.</i>&mdash;Oh, for Dugumb&eacute; or Syde to come! but this delay
+may be all for the best. The parrots all seize their food, and hold it
+with the left hand, the lion, too, is left-handed; he strikes with the
+left, so are all animals left-handed save man.</p>
+
+<p>I noticed a very pretty woman come past this quite jauntily about a
+month ago, on marriage with Monasimba. Ten goats were given; her friends
+came and asked another goat, which being refused, she was enticed away,
+became sick of rheumatic fever two days afterwards, and died yesterday.
+Not a syllable of regret for the beautiful young creature does one hear,
+but for the goats: &quot;Oh, our ten goats!&quot;&mdash;they cannot grieve too
+much&mdash;&quot;Our ten goats&mdash;oh! oh!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Basanga wail over those who die in bed, but not over those who die in
+battle: the cattle are a salve for all sores. <a name="Page_86" id="Page_86" />Another man was killed
+within half a mile of this: they quarrelled, and there is virtually no
+chief. The man was stabbed, the village burned, and the people all fled:
+they are truly a bloody people!</p>
+
+<p>A man died near this, Monasimba went to his wife, and after washing he
+may appear among men. If no widow can be obtained, he must sit naked
+behind his house till some one happens to die, all the clothes he wore
+are thrown away. They are the lowest of the low, and especially in
+bloodiness: the man who killed a woman without cause goes free, he
+offered his grandmother to be killed in his stead, and after a great
+deal of talk nothing was done to him!</p>
+
+<p><i>8th December, 1870.</i>&mdash;Suleiman-bin-Juma lived on the mainland,
+Mosessam&eacute;, opposite Zanzibar: it is impossible to deny his power of
+foresight, except by rejecting all evidence, for he frequently foretold
+the deaths of great men among Arabs, and he was pre-eminently a good
+man, upright and sincere: &quot;Thirti,&quot; none like him now for goodness and
+skill. He said that two middle-sized white men, with straight noses and
+flowing hair down to the girdle behind, came at times, and told him
+things to come. He died twelve years ago, and left no successor; he
+foretold his own decease three days beforehand by cholera. &quot;Heresi,&quot; a
+ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, is a grand charm to the
+animal and to Arabs. Mohamad has one.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th December, 1870.</i>&mdash;I am sorely let and hindered in this Manyuema.
+Rain every day, and often at night; I could not travel now, even if I
+had men, but I could make some progress; this is the sorest delay I ever
+had. I look above for help and mercy.</p>
+
+<p>[The wearied man tried to while away the time by gaining little scraps
+of information from the Arabs and the natives, but we cannot fail to see
+what a serious stress was all the time put upon his constitution under
+these cir<a name="Page_87" id="Page_87" />cumstances; the reader will pardon the disjointed nature of
+his narrative, written as it was under the greatest disadvantage.]</p>
+
+
+<p>Lion's fat is regarded as a sure preventive of tsetse or bungo. This was
+noted before, but I add now that it is smeared on the ox's tail, and
+preserves hundreds of the Banyamwesi cattle in safety while going to the
+coast; it is also used to keep pigs and hippopotami away from gardens:
+the smell is probably the efficacious part in &quot;Heresi,&quot; as they call it.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th December, 1870.</i>&mdash;It may be all for the best that I am so
+hindered, and compelled to inactivity.</p>
+
+<p>An advance to Lohombo was the furthest point of traders for many a day,
+for the slaves returning with ivory were speared mercilessly by
+Manyuema, because they did not know guns could kill, and their spears
+could. Katomba coming to Moen&eacute;kuss was a great feat three or four years
+ago; then Dugumb&eacute; went on to Lualaba, and fought his way, so I may be
+restrained now in mercy till men come.</p>
+
+<p>The Neggeri, an African animal, attacks the tenderest parts of man and
+beast, cuts them off, and retires contented: buffaloes are often
+castrated by him. Men who know it, squat down, and kill him with knife
+or gun. The Zibu or mbuid&eacute; flies at the tendon Achilles; it is most
+likely the Ratel.</p>
+
+<p>The Fisi ea bahari, probably the seal, is abundant in the seas, but the
+ratel or badger probably furnished the skins for the Tabernacle: bees
+escape from his urine, and he eats their honey in safety; lions and all
+other animals fear his attacks of the heel.</p>
+
+<p>The Babemba mix a handful (about twenty-five to a measure) of castor-oil
+seeds with the dura and meleza they grind, and usage makes them like it,
+the nauseous taste is not perceptible in porridge; the oil is needed
+where so <a name="Page_88" id="Page_88" />much farinaceous or starchy matter exists, and the bowels are
+regulated by the mixture: experience has taught them the need of a fatty
+ingredient.</p>
+
+<p>[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been anxious to procure all the
+information possible from the Arabs respecting the powerful chief
+Mer&eacute;r&eacute;, who is reported to live on the borders of the Salt Water Lake,
+which lies between Lake Tanganyika and the East Coast. It would seem as
+if Mer&eacute;r&eacute; held the most available road for travellers passing to the
+south-west from Zanzibar, and although the Doctor did not go through his
+country, he felt an interest no doubt in ascertaining as much as he
+could for the benefit of others.]</p>
+
+<p>Goambari is a prisoner at Mer&eacute;r&eacute;'s, guarded by a thousand or more men,
+to prevent him intriguing with Monyungo, who is known as bloodthirsty.
+In the third generation Charura's descendants numbered sixty able-bodied
+spearmen, Garahenga or Kimamur&eacute; killed many of them. Charura had six
+white attendants with him, but all died before he did, and on becoming
+chief he got all his predecessor's wives. Mer&eacute;r&eacute; is the son of a woman
+of the royal stock, and of a common man, hence he is a shade or two
+darker than Charura's descendants, who are very light coloured, and have
+straight noses. They shave the head, and straight hair is all cut off;
+they drink much milk, warm, from the teats of the cows, and think that
+it is strengthening by its heat.</p>
+
+<p><i>December 23rd, 1870.</i>&mdash;Bambarr&eacute; people suffer hunger now because they
+will not plant cassava; this trading party eats all the maize, and sends
+to a distance for more, and the Manyuema buy from them with malofu, or
+palm-toddy. Rice is all coming into ear, but the Manyuema planted none:
+maize is ripening, and mice are a pest. A strong man among the Manyuema
+does what he pleases, and no chief <a name="Page_89" id="Page_89" />interferes: for instance, a man's
+wife for ten goats was given off to a Men&eacute; man, and his child, now
+grown, is given away, too; he comes to Mohamad for redress! Two
+elephants killed were very large, but have only small tusks: they come
+from the south in the rains. All animals, as elephants, buffaloes, and
+zebras, are very large in the Basango country; tusks are full in the
+hollows, and weigh very heavy, and animals are fat and good in flesh:
+eleven goats are the exchange for the flesh of an elephant.</p>
+
+<p>[The following details respecting ivory cannot fail to be interesting
+here: they are very kindly furnished by Mr. F.D. Blyth, whose long
+experience enables him to speak with authority upon the subject. He
+says, England imports about 550 tons of ivory annually,&mdash;of this 280
+tons pass away to other countries, whilst the remainder is used by our
+manufacturers, of whom the Sheffield cutlers alone require about 170
+tons. The whole annual importation is derived from the following
+countries, and in the quantities given below, as near as one can
+approach to actual figures:</p>
+
+<pre>
+    Bombay and Zanzibar export      160 tons.
+    Alexandria and Malta            180 "
+    West Coast of Africa            140 "
+    Cape of Good Hope                50 "
+    Mozambique                       20 "
+</pre>
+
+<p>The Bombay merchants collect ivory from all the southern countries of
+Asia, and the East Coast of Africa, and after selecting that which is
+most suited to the wants of the Indian and Chinese markets, ship the
+remainder to Europe.</p>
+
+<p>From Alexandria and Malta we receive ivory collected from Northern and
+Central Africa, from Egypt, and the countries through which the Nile
+flows.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after the Franco-German war the value of <a name="Page_90" id="Page_90" />ivory increased
+considerably; and when we look at the prices realized on large Zanzibar
+tusks at the public sales, we can well understand the motive power which
+drove the Arab ivory hunters further and further into the country from
+which the chief supply was derived when Dr. Livingstone met them.</p>
+
+<pre>
+    In 1867 their price varied from �39 to �42.
+     " 1868    "   "     "      "    39  "  42.
+     " 1869    "   "     "      "    41  "  44.
+     " 1870    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1871    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1872    "   "     "      "    58  "  61.
+     " 1873    "   "     "      "    68  "  72.
+     " 1874    "   "     "      "    53  "  58.
+</pre>
+
+<p>Single tusks vary in weight from 1 lb. to 165 lbs.: the average of a
+pair of tusks may be put at 28 lbs., and therefore 44,000 elephants,
+large and small, must be killed yearly to supply the ivory which <i>comes
+to England alone</i>, and when we remember that an enormous quantity goes
+to America, to India and China, for consumption there, and of which we
+have no account, some faint notion may be formed of the destruction that
+goes on amongst the herds of elephants.</p>
+
+<p>Although naturalists distinguish only two living species of elephants,
+viz. the African and the Asiatic, nevertheless there is a great
+difference in the size, character, and colour of their tusks, which may
+arise from variations in climate, soil, and food. The largest tusks are
+yielded by the African elephant, and find their way hither from the port
+of Zanzibar: they are noted for being opaque, soft or &quot;mellow&quot; to work,
+and free from cracks or defects.</p>
+
+<p>The tusks from India, Ceylon, &amp;c, are smaller in size, partly of an
+opaque character, and partly translucent (or, as it is technically
+called &quot;bright&quot;), and harder and more <a name="Page_91" id="Page_91" />cracked, but those from Siam and
+the neighbouring countries are very &quot;bright,&quot; soft, and fine grained;
+they are much sought after for carvings and ornamental work. Tusks from
+Mozambique and the Cape of Good Hope seldom exceed 70 lbs. in weight
+each: they are similar in character to the Zanzibar kind.</p>
+
+<p>Tusks which come through Alexandria and Malta differ considerably in
+quality: some resemble those from Zanzibar, whilst others are white and
+opaque, harder to work, and more cracked at the points; and others again
+are very translucent and hard, besides being liable to crack: this
+latter description fetches a much lower price in the market.</p>
+
+<p>From the West Coast of Africa we get ivory which is always translucent,
+with a dark outside or coating, but partly hard and partly soft.</p>
+
+<p>The soft ivory which comes from Ambriz, the Gaboon River, and the ports
+south of the equator, is more highly valued than any other, and is
+called &quot;silver grey&quot;: this sort retains its whiteness when exposed to
+the air, and is free from that tendency to become yellowish in time
+which characterises Asiatic and East African ivory.</p>
+
+<p>Hard tusks, as a rule, are proportionately smaller in diameter, sharper,
+and less worn than soft ones, and they come to market much more cracked,
+fetching in consequence a lower price.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the above a few tons of Mammoth ivory are received from
+time to time from the Arctic regions and Siberia, and although of
+unknown antiquity, some tusks are equal in every respect to ivory which
+is obtained in the present day from elephants newly killed; this, no
+doubt, is owing to the preservative effects of the ice in which the
+animals have been imbedded for many thousands of years. In the year 1799
+the entire carcase of a mammoth was taken from the ice, and the skeleton
+and portions of the skin, still covered with reddish hair, are preserved
+in the Museum of <a name="Page_92" id="Page_92" />St. Petersburg: it is said that portions of the flesh
+were eaten by the men who dug it out of the ice.]</p>
+
+
+<p><i>24th December, 1870.</i>&mdash;Between twenty-five and thirty slaves have died
+in the present epidemic, and many Manyuema; two yesterday at Kandawara.
+The feet swell, then the hands and face, and in a day or two they drop
+dead; it came from the East, and is very fatal, for few escape who take
+it.</p>
+
+<p>A woman was accused of stealing maize, and the chief here sent all his
+people yesterday, plundered all she had in her house and garden, and
+brought her husband bound in thongs till he shall pay a goat: she is
+said to be innocent.</p>
+
+<p>Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here; and, as the people tell
+him, as soon as they are gone the vengeance he is earning by injustice
+on all sides will be taken: I told the chief that his head would be cut
+off as soon as the traders leave, and so it will be; and Kasessa's also.</p>
+
+<p>Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo's to buy Viramba, and a man was
+speared belonging to Kasongo, these three then fired into a mass of men
+who collected, one killed two, another three, and so on; so now that
+place is shut up from traders, and all this country will be closed as
+soon as the Manyuema learn that guns are limited in their power of
+killing, and especially in the hands of slaves, who cannot shoot, but
+only make a noise. These Suaheli are the most cruel and bloodthirsty
+missionaries in existence, and withal so impure in talk and acts,
+spreading disease everywhere. The Lord sees it.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th December, 1870.</i>&mdash;Moenembegg, the most intelligent of the two sons
+of Moen&eacute;kuss, in power, told us that a man was killed and eaten a few
+miles from this yesterday: hunger was the reason assigned. On speaking
+of tainted meat, he said that the Manyuema put meat in water for two
+days to make it putrid and smell high. The love of high meat is the only
+reason I know for their cannibalism, but the practice is <a name="Page_93" id="Page_93" />now hidden on
+account of the disgust that the traders expressed against open
+man-eating when they first arrived.</p>
+
+<p>Lightning was very near us last night. The Manyuema say that when it is
+so loud fishes of large size fall with it, an opinion shared by the
+Arabs, but the large fish is really the <i>Clarias Capensis</i> of Smith, and
+it is often seen migrating in single file along the wet grass for miles:
+it is probably this that the Manyuema think falls from the lightning.</p>
+
+<p>The strangest disease I have seen in this country seems really to be
+broken-heartedness, and it attacks free men who have been captured and
+made slaves. My attention was drawn to it when the elder brother of Syde
+bin Habib was killed in Rua by a night attack, from a spear being
+pitched through his tent into his side. Syde then vowed vengeance for
+the blood of his brother, and assaulted all he could find, killing the
+elders, and making the young men captives. He had secured a very large
+number, and they endured the chains until they saw the broad River
+Lualaba roll between them and their free homes; they then lost heart.
+Twenty-one were unchained as being now safe; however, all ran away at
+once, but eight, with many others still in chains, died in three days
+after crossing. They ascribed their only pain to the heart, and placed
+the hand correctly on the spot, though many think that the organ stands
+high up under the breast bone. Some slavers expressed surprise to me
+that they should die, seeing they had plenty to eat and no work. One
+fine boy of about twelve years was carried, and when about to expire,
+was kindly laid down on the side of the path, and a hole dug to deposit
+the body in. He, too, said he had nothing the matter with him, except
+pain in his heart: as it attacks only the free (who are captured and
+never slaves), it seems to be really broken-hearts of which they die.</p>
+
+<p>[Livingstone's servants give some additional particulars <a name="Page_94" id="Page_94" />in answer to
+questions put to them about this dreadful history. The sufferings
+endured by these unfortunate captives, whilst they were hawked about in
+different directions, must have been shocking indeed; many died because
+it was impossible for them to carry a burden on the head whilst marching
+in the heavy yoke or &quot;taming stick,&quot; which weighs from 30 lbs. to 40
+lbs. as a rule, and the Arabs knew that if once the stick were taken
+off, the captive would escape on the first opportunity. Children for a
+time would keep up with wonderful endurance, but it happened sometimes
+that the sound of dancing and the merry tinkle of the small drums would
+fall on their ears in passing near to a village; then the memory of home
+and happy days proved too much for them; they cried and sobbed, the
+&quot;broken-heart&quot; came on, and they rapidly sank.</p>
+
+<p>The adults as a rule came into the slave-sticks from treachery, and had
+never been slaves before. Very often the Arabs would promise a present
+of dried fish to villagers if they would act as guides to some distant
+point, and as soon as they were far enough away from their friends they
+were seized and pinned into the yoke from which there is no escape.
+These poor fellows would expire in the way the Doctor mentions, talking
+to the last of their wives and children who would never know what had
+become of them. On one occasion twenty captives succeeded in escaping as
+follows. Chained together by the neck, and in the custody of an Arab
+armed with a gun, they were sent off to collect wood; at a given signal,
+one of them called the guard to look at something which he pretended he
+had found: when he stooped down they threw themselves upon him and
+overpowered him, and after he was dead managed to break the chain and
+make off in all directions.]</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"><a name="fp095" id="fp095" />
+<img src="images/fp095.jpg" width="650" height="378" alt="A dangerous Prize" title="A dangerous Prize" />
+<b>A dangerous Prize</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rice sown on 19th October was in ear in seventy days. A leopard killed
+my goat, and a gun set for him went off at <a name="Page_95" id="Page_95" />10 P.M.&mdash;the ball broke both
+hind legs and one fore leg, yet he had power to spring up and bite a man
+badly afterwards; he was a male, 2 feet 4 inches at withers, and 6 feet
+8 inches from tip of nose to end of tail.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st January, 1871.</i>&mdash;O Father! help me to finish this work to Thy
+honour.</p>
+
+<p>Still detained at Bambarr&eacute;, but a caravan of 500 muskets is reported
+from the coast: it may bring me other men and goods.</p>
+
+<p>Rain daily. A woman was murdered without cause close by the camp; the
+murderer said she was a witch and speared her: the body is exposed till
+the affair is settled, probably by a fine of goats.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyuema are the most bloody, callous savages I know; one puts a
+scarlet feather from a parrot's tail on the ground, and challenges those
+near to stick it in the hair: he who does so must kill a man or woman!</p>
+
+<p>Another custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk cat, Ngawa,
+unless he has murdered somebody: guns alone prevent them from killing us
+all, and for no reason either.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th January, 1871.</i>&mdash;Ramad&acirc;n ended last night, and it is probable my
+people and others from the coast will begin to travel after three days
+of feasting. It has been so rainy I could have done little though I had
+had people.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd January, 1871.</i>&mdash;A party is reported to be on the way hither. This
+is likely enough, but reports are so often false that doubts arise.
+Mohamad says he will give men when the party of Hassani comes, or when
+Dugumb&eacute; arrives.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th January, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mohamad mentioned this morning that Moene-mokaia,
+and Moeneghera his brother, brought about thirty slaves from Kata&ntilde;ga to
+Ujiji, affected with swelled thyroid glands or &quot;<i>Go&icirc;tre</i>,&quot; and that
+drinking the water of Tanganyika proved a perfect cure to all in a very
+few days. Sometimes the swelling went down in two days after they <a name="Page_96" id="Page_96" />began
+to use the water, in their ordinary way of cooking, washing, and
+drinking: possibly some ingredient of the hot fountain that flows into
+it affects the cure, for the people on the Lofubu, in Nsama's country,
+had the swelling. The water in bays is decidedly brackish, while the
+body of Tanganyika is quite fresh.</p>
+
+<p>The odour of putrid elephant's meat in a house kills parrots: the
+Manyuema keep it till quite rotten, but know its fatal effects on their
+favourite birds.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th January, 1871.</i>&mdash;Safari or caravan reported to be near, and my men
+and goods at Ujiji.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th January, 1871.</i>&mdash;A safari, under Hassani and Ebed, arrived with
+news of great mortality by cholera (<i>Towny</i>), at Zanzibar, and my
+&quot;brother,&quot; whom I conjecture to be Dr. Kirk, has fallen. The men I wrote
+for have come to Ujiji, but did not know my whereabouts; when told by
+Katomba's men they will come here, and bring my much longed for letters
+and goods. 70,000 victims in Zanzibar alone from cholera, and it spread
+inland to the Masoi and Ugogo! Cattle shivered, and fell dead: the
+fishes in the sea died in great numbers; here the fowls were first
+seized and died, but not from cholera, only from its companion. Thirty
+men perished in our small camp, made still smaller by all the able men
+being off trading at the Metamba, and how many Manyuema died we do not
+know; the survivors became afraid of eating the dead.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly the Cholera kept along the sea-shore, now it goes far inland,
+and will spread all over Africa; this we get from Mecca filth, for
+nothing was done to prevent the place being made a perfect cesspool of
+animals' guts and ordure of men.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11" /><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> A piece of skin bound round the
+chest of a man, and <a name="Page_97" id="Page_97" />half of it hanging down, prevents waste of strength,
+and he forgets and fattens.</p>
+
+<p>Ebed's party bring 200 frasilahs of all sorts of beads; they will cross
+Lualaba, and open a new field on the other, or Young's Lualaba: all
+Central Africa will soon be known: the evils inflicted by these Arabs
+are enormous, but probably not greater than the people inflict on each
+other. Mer&eacute;r&eacute; has turned against the Arabs, and killed one; robbing
+several others of all they had, though he has ivory sufficient to send
+down 7000 lbs. to the coast, and receive loads of goods for 500 men in
+return. He looks as if insane, and probably is so, and will soon be
+killed. His insanity may be the effect of pombe, of which he drinks
+largely, and his people may have told him that the Arabs were plotting
+with Goambari. He restored Mohamad's ivory and slaves, and sent for the
+other traders who had fled, saying his people had spoken badly, and he
+would repay all losses.</p>
+
+<p>The Watuta (who are the same as the Mazitu) came stealing Banyamwezi
+cattle, and Mt&eacute;za's men went out to them, and twenty-two were killed,
+but the Lewale's people did nothing. The Governor's sole anxiety is to
+obtain ivory, and no aid is rendered to traders. Seyed Suleiman the
+Wazeer is the author of the do-nothing policy, and sent away all the
+sepoys as too expensive, consequently the Wagogo plunder traders
+unchecked. It is reported that Egyptian Turks came up and attacked
+Mt&eacute;za, but lost many people, and fled. The report of a Moslem Mission to
+his country was a falsehood, though the details given were
+circumstantial: falsehood is so common, one can believe nothing the
+Arabs say, unless confirmed by other evidence: they are the followers of
+the Prince of lies&mdash;Mohamad, whose cool appropriation of the knowledge
+gained at Damascus, and from the Jews, is perfectly disgusting. All his
+deeds were done when unseen by any witnesses. It is <a name="Page_98" id="Page_98" />worth noticing that
+all admit the decadence of the Moslem power, and they ask how it is so
+fallen? They seem sincere in their devotion and in teaching the Koran,
+but its meaning is comparatively hid from most of the Suaheli. The
+Persian Arabs are said to be gross idolators, and awfully impure. Earth
+from a grave at Kurbelow (?) is put in the turban and worshipped: some
+of the sects won't say &quot;Amen.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Moenyegumb&eacute; never drank more than a mouthful of pombe. When young, he
+could make his spear pass right through an elephant, and stick in the
+ground on the other side. He was a large man, and all his members were
+largely developed, his hands and fingers were all in proportion to his
+great height; and he lived to old age with strength unimpaired: Goambari
+inherits his white colour and sharp nose, but not his wisdom or courage.
+Mer&eacute;r&eacute; killed five of his own people for exciting him against the Arabs.
+The half-caste is the murderer of many of Charura's descendants. His
+father got a daughter of Moenyegumb&eacute; for courage in fighting the Babema
+of Ubena.</p>
+
+<p>Cold-blooded murders are frightfully common here. Some kill people in
+order to be allowed to wear the red tail feathers of a parrot in their
+hair, and yet they are not ugly like the West Coast Negroes, for many
+men have as finely formed heads as could be found in London. We English,
+if naked, would make but poor figures beside the strapping forms and
+finely shaped limbs of Manyuema men and women. Their cannibalism is
+doubtful, but my observations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch jury
+would say, &quot;Not proven.&quot; The women are not guilty.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;Ten of my men from the coast have come near to
+Bambarr&eacute;, and will arrive to-day. I am extremely thankful to hear it,
+for it assures me that my packet of letters was not destroyed; they know
+at home <a name="Page_99" id="Page_99" />by this time what has detained me, and the end to which I
+strain.</p>
+
+<p>Only one letter reached, and forty are missing! James was killed to-day
+by an arrow: the assassin was hid in the forest till my men going to buy
+food came up.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12" /><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> I propose to leave on the 12th. I have sent Dr. Kirk a
+cheque for Rs. 4000: great havoc was made by cholera, and in the midst
+of it my friend exerted himself greatly to get men off to me with goods;
+the first gang of porters all died.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;The ten men refusing to go north are influenced
+probably by Shereef, and my two ringleaders, who try this means to
+compel me to take them.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;The man who contrived the murder of James came
+here, drawn by the pretence that he was needed to lead a party against
+the villages, which he led to commit the outrage. His thirst for blood
+is awful: he was bound, and word sent to bring the actual murderers
+within three days, or he suffers death. He brought five goats, thinking
+that would smooth the matter over.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;Men struck work for higher wages: I consented to
+give them six dollars a month if they behaved well; if ill I diminish
+it, so we hope to start to-morrow. Another hunting quelled by Mohamad
+and me.</p>
+
+<p>The ten men sent are all slaves of the Banians, who are English
+subjects, and they come with a lie in their mouth: they will not help
+me, and swear that the Consul told them not to go forward, but to force
+me back, and they spread the tale all over the country that a certain
+letter has been sent to me with orders to return forthwith. They swore
+so positively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk's letter to see
+if his orders had been rightly understood by me. But for Mohamad
+Bogharib and fear of pistol-shot they <a name="Page_100" id="Page_100" />would gain their own and their
+Banian masters' end to baffle me completely; they demand an advance of
+one dollar, or six dollars a month, though this is double freeman's pay
+at Zanzibar. Their two headmen, Shereef and Awath&eacute;, refused to come past
+Ujiji, and are revelling on my goods there.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mabruki being seized with choleraic purging
+detains us to-day. I gave Mohamad five pieces Americano, five ditto
+Kanik&eacute;,<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13" /><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> and two frasilahs samisami beads. He gives me a note to
+Hassani for twenty thick copper bracelets. Yesterday crowds came to eat
+the meat of the man who misled James to his death spot: but we want the
+men who set the Mbanga men to shoot him: they were much disappointed
+when they found that no one was killed, and are undoubtedly cannibals.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th, February, 1871.</i>&mdash;Started to-day. Mabruki making himself out very ill, Mohamad roused him out by telling him I
+travelled when much worse. The chief gave me a goat, and Mohamad
+another, but in coming through the forest on the neck of the mountain
+the men lost three, and have to go back for them, and return to-morrow.
+Simon and Ibram were bundled out of the camp, and impudently followed
+me: when they came up, I told them to be off.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;Waiting at a village on the Western slope for
+the men to come up with the goats, if they have gone back to the camp.
+Mohamad would not allow the deserters to remain among his people, nor
+would I. It would only be to imbue the minds of my men with their want
+of respect for all English, and total disregard of honesty and honour:
+they came after me with inimitable effrontery, believing that though I
+said I would not take them, they were so valuable, I was only saying
+what I knew to be false. The goats were brought by a Manyuema man, <a name="Page_101" id="Page_101" />who
+found one fallen into a pitfall and dead; he ate it, and brought one of
+his own in lieu of it. I gave him ten strings of beads, and he presented
+a fowl in token of goodwill.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;Went on to a village on the Lulwa, and on the
+19th reached Moenemgoi, who dissuaded me so earnestly against going to
+Moenekurumbo for the cause of Molembalemba that I agreed not to venture.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;To the ford with only one canoe now, as two men
+of Katomba were swept away in the other, and drowned. They would not
+sell the remaining canoe, so I go N.W. on foot to Moen&eacute; Lualaba, where
+fine large canoes are abundant. The grass and mud are grievous, but my
+men lift me over the waters.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st February, 1871.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Monandewa's village, situated on a
+high ridge between two deep and difficult gullies. These people are
+obliging and kind: the chief's wife made a fire for me in the evening
+unbidden.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd February, 1871.</i>&mdash;On N.W. to a high hill called Chiband&eacute; a Yund&eacute;,
+with a spring of white water at the village on the top. Famine from some
+unknown cause here, but the people are cultivating now on the plain
+below with a will.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd February, 1871.</i>&mdash;On to two large villages with many banana plants
+around, but the men said they were in fear of the traders, and shifted
+their villages to avoid them: we then went on to the village
+Kahombogola, with a feeble old man as chief. The country is beautiful
+and undulating: light-green grass covers it all, save at the brooks,
+where the eye is relieved by the dark-green lines of trees. Grass tears
+the hands and wets the extremities constantly. The soil is formed of the
+d&eacute;bris of granitic rocks; rough and stony, but everywhere fertile. One
+can rarely get a bare spot to sit down and rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;To a village near Loland&eacute; River. Then <a name="Page_102" id="Page_102" />across
+the Loengady&eacute;, sleeping on the bank of the Luha, and so to Mamohela,
+where we were welcomed by all the Arabs, and I got a letter from Dr.
+Kirk and another from the Sultan, and from Mohamad bin Nassib who was
+going to Karagw&eacute;: all anxious to be kind. Katomba gave flour, nuts,
+fowls, and goat. A new way is opened to Kasongo's, much shorter than
+that I followed. I rest a few days, and then go on.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th February, 1871.</i>&mdash;So we went on, and found that it was now known
+that the Lualaba flowed west-south-west, and that our course was to be
+west across this other great bend of the mighty river. I had to suspend
+my judgment, so as to be prepared to find it after all perhaps the
+Congo. No one knew anything about it except that when at Kasongo's nine
+days west, and by south it came sweeping round and flowed north and
+north and by east.</p>
+
+<p>Katomba presented a young soko or gorillah that had been caught while
+its mother was killed; she sits eighteen inches high, has fine long
+black hair all over, which was pretty so long as it was kept in order by
+her dam. She is the least mischievous of all the monkey tribe I have
+seen, and seems to know that in me she has a friend, and sits quietly on
+the mat beside me. In walking, the first thing observed is that she does
+not tread on the palms of her hands, but on the backs of the second line
+of bones of the hands: in doing this the nails do not touch the ground,
+nor do the knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported crutch fashion,
+and hitches herself along between them; occasionally one hand is put
+down before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she walks
+upright and holds up a hand to any one to carry her. If refused, she
+turns her face down, and makes grimaces of the most bitter human
+weeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes adding a fourth hand or foot
+to make the appeal more touching. Grass or leaves she draws around her
+to make a nest, and <a name="Page_103" id="Page_103" />resents anyone meddling with her property. She is a
+most friendly little beast, and came up to me at once, making her
+chirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, and held out her hand to be
+shaken. I slapped her palm without offence, though she winced. She began
+to untie the cord with which she was afterwards bound, with fingers and
+thumbs, in quite a systematic way, and on being interfered with by a man
+looked daggers, and screaming tried to beat him with her hands: she was
+afraid of his stick, and faced him, putting her back to me as a friend.
+She holds out her hand for people to lift her up and carry her, quite
+like a spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry, somewhat like
+that of a kite, wrings her hands quite naturally, as if in despair. She
+eats everything, covers herself with a mat to sleep, and makes a nest of
+grass or leaves, and wipes her face with a leaf.</p>
+
+<p>I presented my double-barrelled gun which is at Ujiji to Katomba, as he
+has been very kind when away from Ujiji: I pay him thus for all his
+services. He gave me the soko, and will carry it to Ujiji for me; I have
+tried to refund all that the Arabs expended on me.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st March, 1871.</i>&mdash;I was to start this morning, but the Arabs asked me
+to take seven of their people going to buy biramba, as they know the new
+way: the offer was gladly accepted.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd to 5th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Left Mamohela, and travelled over fine grassy
+plains, crossing in six hours fourteen running rills, from three to ten
+or fifteen feet broad, and from calf to thigh deep. Tree-covered
+mountains on both sides. The natives know the rills by names, and
+readily tell their courses, and which falls into which, before all go
+into the great Lualaba; but without one as a guide, no one can put them
+in a map. We came to Monanbunda's villages, and spent the night. Our
+next stage was at Monangongo's. A small present of a few strings of
+beads satisfies, but is not asked: I give it <a name="Page_104" id="Page_104" />invariably as
+acknowledgment for lodgings. The headman of our next stage hid himself
+in fear, as we were near to the scene of Bin Juma's unprovoked slaughter
+of five men, for tusks that were not stolen, but thrown down. Our path
+lay through dense forest, and again, on 5th, our march was in the same
+dense jungle of lofty trees and vegetation that touch our arms on each
+side. We came to some villages among beautiful tree-covered hills,
+called Basila&ntilde;g&eacute; or Mobasilang&eacute;. The villages are very pretty, standing
+on slopes. The main street generally lies east and west, to allow the
+bright sun to stream his clear hot rays from one end to the other, and
+lick up quickly the moisture from the frequent showers which is not
+drained off by the slopes. A little verandah is often made in front of
+the door, and here at dawn the family gathers round a fire, and, while
+enjoying the heat needed in the cold that always accompanies the first
+darting of the light or sun's rays across the atmosphere, inhale the
+delicious air, and talk over their little domestic affairs. The various
+shaped leaves of the forest all around their village and near their
+nestlings are bespangled with myriads of dewdrops. The cocks crow
+vigorously, and strut and ogle; the kids gambol and leap on the backs of
+their dams quietly chewing the cud; other goats make believe fighting.
+Thrifty wives often bake their new clay pots in a fire, made by lighting
+a heap of grass roots: the next morning they extract salt from the
+ashes, and so two birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of this
+morning scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable. Infancy gilds the
+fairy picture with its own lines, and it is probably never forgotten,
+for the young, taken up from slavers, and treated with all philanthropic
+missionary care and kindness, still revert to the period of infancy as
+the finest and fairest they have known. They would go back to freedom
+and enjoyment as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be heedless
+to the charms of hard <a name="Page_105" id="Page_105" />work and no play which we think so much better
+for them if not for us.</p>
+
+<p>In some cases we found all the villages deserted; the people had fled at
+our approach, in dread of repetitions of the outrages of Arab slaves.
+The doors were all shut: a bunch of the leaves of reeds or of green
+reeds placed across them, means &quot;no entrance here.&quot; A few stray chickens
+wander about wailing, having hid themselves while the rest were caught
+and carried off into the deep forest, and the still smoking fires tell
+the same tale of recent flight from the slave-traders.</p>
+
+<p>Many have found out that I am not one of their number, so in various
+cases they stand up and call out loudly, &quot;Bolongo, Bolongo!&quot;
+&quot;Friendship, Friendship!&quot; They sell their fine iron bracelets eagerly
+for a few beads; for (bracelets seem out of fashion since beads came
+in), but they are of the finest quality of iron, and were they nearer
+Europe would be as eagerly sought and bought as horse-shoe nails are for
+the best gun-barrels. I overhear the Manyuema telling each other that I
+am the &quot;good one.&quot; I have no slaves, and I owe this character to the
+propagation of a good name by the slaves of Zanzibar, who are anything
+but good themselves. I have seen slaves belonging to the seven men now
+with us slap the cheeks of grown men who had offered food for sale; it
+was done in sheer wantonness, till I threatened to thrash them if I saw
+it again; but out of my sight they did it still, and when I complained
+to the masters they confessed that all the mischief was done by slaves;
+for the Manyuema, on being insulted, lose temper and use their spears on
+the nasty curs, and then vengeance is taken with guns. Free men behave
+better than slaves; the bondmen are not responsible. The Manyuema are
+far more beautiful than either the bond or free of Zanzibar; I overhear
+the remark often, &quot;If we had Manyuema wives what beautiful children we
+should beget.&quot; The men are usually handsome, <a name="Page_106" id="Page_106" />and many of the women are
+very pretty; hands, feet, limbs, and forms perfect in shape and the
+colour light-brown, but the orifices of the nose are widened by
+snuff-takers, who ram it up as far as they can with the finger and
+thumb: the teeth are not filed, except a small space between the two
+upper front teeth.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;We heard to-day that Mohamad's people passed us on
+the west, with much ivory. I lose thus twenty copper rings I was to take
+from them, and all the notes they were to make for me of the rivers they
+crossed.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Passed through very large villages, with many forges
+in active work; some men followed us, as if to fight, but we got them to
+turn peaceably: we don't know who are enemies, so many have been
+maltreated and had relatives killed. The rain of yesterday made the
+paths so slippery that the feet of all were sorely fatigued, and on
+coming to Manyara's, I resolved to rest on 7th near Mount Kimazi. I gave
+a cloth and beads in lieu of a fine fat goat from the chief, a clever,
+good man.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;We marched about five hours across a grassy plain
+without trees&mdash;buga or prairie. The torrid sun, nearly vertical, sent
+his fierce rays down, and fatigued us all: we crossed two Sokoy&eacute; streams
+by bridges, and slept at a village on a ridge of woodland overlooking
+Kasonga. After two hours this morning, we came to villages of this
+chief, and at one were welcomed by the Safari of Salem Mokadam, and I
+was given a house. Kasonga is a very fine young man, with European
+features, and &quot;very clever and good.&quot; He is clever, and is pronounced
+good, because he eagerly joins the Arabs in marauding! Seeing the
+advantage of firearms, he has bought four muskets. Mohamad's people were
+led by his, and spent all their copper for some fifty frasilahs of good
+ivory. From this party men have been sent over Lualaba, and about fifty
+frasilahs obtained: all praise Kasonga. We were now only six miles from
+Lualaba, and <a name="Page_107" id="Page_107" />yet south of Mamohela; this great river, in fact, makes a
+second great sweep to the west of some 130 miles, and there are at least
+30' of southing; but now it comes rolling majestically to the north, and
+again makes even easting. It is a mighty stream, with many islands in
+it, and is never wadeable at any point or at any time of the year.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mohamad's people are said to have gone to Luapanya,
+a powerful chief, who told them they were to buy all their ivory from
+him: he had not enough, and they wanted to go on to a people who have
+ivory door-posts; but he said, &quot;You shall go neither forward nor
+backwards, but remain here,&quot; and he then called an immense body of
+archers, and said, &quot;You must fight these.&quot; The consequence was they
+killed Luapanya and many of his people, called Bahika, then crossed a
+very large river, the Morombya or Morombw&eacute;, and again the Pembo River,
+but don't seem to have gone very far north. I wished to go from this in
+canoes, but Kasonga has none, so I must tramp for five or six days to
+Moen&eacute; Lualaba to buy one, if I have credit with Abed.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;I had a long, fierce oration from Amur, in which I
+was told again and again that I should be killed and eaten&mdash;the people
+wanted a &quot;white one&quot; to eat! I needed 200 guns; and &quot;must not go to
+die.&quot; I told him that I was thankful for advice, if given by one who had
+knowledge, but his vehement threats were dreams of one who had never
+gone anywhere, but sent his slaves to kill people. He was only
+frightening my people, and doing me an injury. I told him that Baker had
+only twelve people, and came near to this: to this he replied &quot;Were the
+people cannibals?&quot; &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>I left this noisy demagogue, after saying I thanked him for his
+warnings, but saw he knew not what he was saying. The traders from Ujiji
+are simply marauders, and their people worse than themselves, they
+thirst for blood more <a name="Page_108" id="Page_108" />than for ivory, each longs to be able to tell a
+tale of blood, and the Manyuema are an easy prey. Hassani assaulted the
+people at Moen&eacute; Lualaba's, and now they keep to the other bank, and I am
+forced to bargain with Kasonga for a canoe, and he sends to a friend for
+one to be seen on the 13th. This Hassani declared to me that he would
+not begin hostilities, but he began nothing else; the prospect of
+getting slaves overpowers all else, and blood flows in horrid streams.
+The Lord look on it! Hassani will have some tale to tell Mohamad
+Bogharib.</p>
+
+<p>[At the outset of his explorations Livingstone fancied that there were
+degrees in the sufferings of slaves, and that the horrors perpetrated by
+the Portuguese of Tette were unknown in the system of slave hunting
+which the Arabs pursue: we now see that a further acquaintance with the
+slave-trade of the Interior has restored the balance of infamy, and that
+the same tale of murder and destruction is common wherever the traffic
+extends, no matter by whom it is carried on.]</p>
+
+<p><i>15th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Falsehood seems ingrained in their constitutions:
+no wonder that in all this region they have never tried to propagate
+Islamism; the natives soon learn to hate them, and slaving, as carried
+on by the Kilwans and Ujijians, is so bloody, as to prove an effectual
+barrier against proselytism.</p>
+
+<p>My men are not come back: I fear they are engaged in some broil. In
+confirmation of what I write, some of the party here assaulted a village
+of Kasonga's, killed three men and captured women and children; they
+pretended that they did not know them to be his people, but they did not
+return the captives.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;I am heartsore, and sick of human blood.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Kasongo's brother's child died, and he asked me to
+remain to-day while he buried the dead, and he would <a name="Page_109" id="Page_109" />give me a guide
+to-morrow; being rainy I stop willingly. Dugumb&eacute; is said to purpose
+going down the river to Kanagumb&eacute; River to build on the land Kanagumb&eacute;,
+which is a loop formed by the river, and is large. He is believed to
+possess great power of divination, even of killing unfaithful women.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd March, 1871.</i>&mdash;I am detained another day by the sickness of one of
+the party. Very cold rain yesterday from the north-west. I hope to go
+to-morrow towards the Lakoni, or great market of this region.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Left Kasongo, who gave me a goat and a guide. The
+country is gently undulating, showing green slopes fringed with wood,
+with grass from four to six feet. We reached Katenga's, about five miles
+off. There are many villages, and people passed us carrying loads of
+provisions, and cassava, from the chitoka or market.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Great rain in the night and morning, and sickness
+of the men prevented our march.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Went to Mazimw&eacute;, 7-1/2 miles off.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Went four miles and crossed the Kabwimaji; then a
+mile beyond Kahembai, which flows into the Kunda, and it into the
+Lualaba; the country is open, and low hills appear in the north. We met
+a party from the traders at Kasenga, chiefly Mater&eacute;ka's people under
+Salem and Syde bin Sultan; they had eighty-two captives, and say they
+fought ten days to secure them and two of the Malongwana, and two of the
+Banyamwezi. They had about twenty tusks, and carried one of their men
+who broke his leg in fighting; we shall be safe only when past the
+bloodshed and murder.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;We went along a ridge of land overhanging a fine
+valley of denudation, with well-cultivated hills in the distance (N.),
+where Hassani's feat of bloodshed was performed. There are many villages
+on the ridge, some rather tumbledown ones, which always indicate some
+misrule. Our <a name="Page_110" id="Page_110" />march was about seven miles. A headman who went with us
+plagued another chief to give me a goat; I refused to take what was not
+given willingly, but the slaves secured it; and I threatened our
+companion, Kama, with dismissal from our party if he became a tool in
+slave hands. The arum is common.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;The Banian slaves are again trying compulsion&mdash;I
+don't know what for. They refused to take their bead rations, and made
+Chakanga spokesman: I could not listen to it, as he has been concocting
+a mutiny against me. It is excessively trying, and so many difficulties
+have been put in my way I doubt whether the Divine favour and will is on
+my side.</p>
+
+<p>We came six miles to-day, crossing many rivulets running to the Kunda,
+which also we crossed in a canoe; it is almost thirty yards wide and
+deep: afterwards, near the village where we slept, we crossed the Luja
+about twenty yards wide, going into the Kunda and Lualaba. I am greatly
+distressed because there is no law here; they probably mean to create a
+disturbance at Abed's place, to which we are near: the Lord look on it.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th March, 1871.</i>&mdash;Crossed the Liya, and next day the Moangoi, by two
+well-made wattle bridges at an island in its bed: it is twenty yards,
+and has a very strong current, which makes all the market people fear
+it. We then crossed the Molemb&eacute; in a canoe, which is fifteen yards, but
+swelled by rains and many rills. Came 7 1/2 miles to sleep at one of the
+outlying villages of Nyangw&eacute;: about sixty market people came past us
+from the Chitoka or marketplace, on the banks of Lualaba; they go
+thither at night, and come away about mid-day, having disposed of most of
+their goods by barter. The country is open, and dotted over with trees,
+chiefly a species of Bauhinia, that resists the annual grass burnings;
+there are trees along the watercourses, and many villages, each with a
+host of pigs. <a name="Page_111" id="Page_111" />This region is low as compared with Tanganyika; about
+2000 feet above the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The headman's house, in which I was lodged, contained the housewife's
+little conveniences, in the shape of forty pots, dishes, baskets,
+knives, mats, all of which she removed to another house: I gave her four
+strings of beads, and go on to-morrow. Crossed the Kunda River and seven
+miles more brought us to Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute;, where we found Abed and Hassani had
+erected their dwellings, and sent their people over Lualaba, and as far
+west as the Lo&eacute;ki or Lomam&eacute;. Abed said that my words against
+bloodshedding had stuck into him, and he had given orders to his people
+to give presents to the chiefs, but never fight unless actually
+attacked.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st March, 1871.</i>&mdash;I went down to take a good look at the Lualaba
+here. It is narrower than it is higher up, but still a mighty river, at
+least 3000 yards broad, and always deep: it can never be waded at any
+point, or at any time of the year; the people unhesitatingly declare
+that if any one tried to ford it, he would assuredly be lost. It has
+many large islands, and at these it is about 2000 yards or one mile. The
+banks are steep and deep: there is clay, and a yellow-clay schist in
+their structure; the other rivers, as the Luya and Kunda, have gravelly
+banks. The current is about two miles an hour away to the north.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11" /><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> The epidemic here mentioned reached Zanzibar Island from
+the interior of Africa by way of the Masai caravan route and Pangani.
+Dr. Kirk says it again entered Africa from Zanzibar, and followed the
+course of the caravans to Ujiji and Manyuema.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12" /><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The men give indisputable proof that his body was eaten by
+the Manyuema who lay in ambush.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13" /><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Kanik&eacute; is a blue calico.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V" /><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112" />CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute; on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomam&eacute;.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><i>1st April, 1871.</i>&mdash;The banks are well peopled, but one must see the
+gathering at the market, of about 3000, chiefly women, to judge of their
+numbers. They hold market one day, and then omit attendance here for
+three days, going to other markets at other points in the intervals. It
+is a great institution in Manyuema: numbers seem to inspire confidence,
+and they enforce justice for each other. As a rule, all prefer to buy
+and sell in the market, to doing business anywhere else; if one says,
+&quot;Come, sell me that fowl or cloth,&quot; the reply is, &quot;Come to the
+'Chitoka,' or marketplace.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd April, 1871.</i>&mdash;To-day the market contained over a thousand people,
+carrying earthen pots and cassava, grass cloth, fishes, and fowls; they
+were alarmed at my coming among them and were ready to flee, many stood
+afar off in suspicion; some came from the other side of the river with
+their goods. To-morrow market is held up river.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd April, 1871.</i>&mdash;I tried to secure a longitude by fixing a <a name="Page_113" id="Page_113" />weight on
+the key of the watch, and so helping it on: I will try this in a quiet
+place to-morrow. The people all fear us, and they have good reason for
+it in the villainous conduct of many of the blackguard half-castes which
+alarms them: I cannot get a canoe, so I wait to see what will turn up.
+The river is said to overflow all its banks annually, as the Nile does
+further down. I sounded across yesterday. Near the bank it is 9 feet,
+the rest 15 feet, and one cast in the middle was 20 feet: between the
+islands 12 feet, and 9 feet again in shore: it is a mighty river truly.
+I took distances and altitudes alternately with a bullet for a weight on
+the key of the chronometer, taking successive altitudes of the sun and
+distances of the moon. Possibly the first and last altitudes may give
+the rate of going, and the frequent distances between may give
+approximate longitude.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Moon, the fourth of the Arabs, will appear in three
+or four days. This will be a guide in ascertaining the day of observing
+the lunars, with the weight.</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs ask many questions about the Bible, and want to know how many
+prophets have appeared, and probably say that they believe in them all;
+while we believe all but reject Mohamad. It is easy to drive them into a
+corner by questioning, as they don't know whither the inquiries lead,
+and they are not offended when their knowledge is, as it were, admitted.
+When asked how many false prophets are known, they appeal to my
+knowledge, and evidently never heard of Balaam, the son of Beor, or of
+the 250 false prophets of Jezebel and Ahab, or of the many lying
+prophets referred to in the Bible.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Ill from drinking two cups of very sweet malofu, or
+beer, made from bananas: I shall touch it no more.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp114" id="fp114" />
+<img src="images/fp114.jpg" width="550" height="391" alt="Facsimile of a Portion of Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Journal, when Writing-paper &amp; Ink had failed." title="Facsimile of a Portion of Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Journal, when Writing-paper &amp; Ink had failed." />
+<b>Facsimile of a Portion of Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Journal,</b><br />when Writing-paper &amp; Ink had failed.
+</div>
+
+<p><i>7th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Made this ink with the seeds of a plant, called by
+the Arabs Zugifar&eacute;; it is known in India, and is <a name="Page_114" id="Page_114" />used here by the
+Manyuema to dye virambos and ornament faces and heads.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14" /><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> I sent my
+people over to the other side to cut wood to build a house for me; the
+borrowed one has mud walls and floors, which are damp, foul, smelling,
+and unwholesome. I shall have grass walls, and grass and reeds on the
+floor of my own house; the free ventilation will keep it sweet. This is
+the season called Masika, the finishing rains, which we have in large
+quantities almost every night, and I could scarcely travel even if I had
+a canoe; still it is trying to be kept back by suspicion, and by the
+wickedness of the wicked.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the Arabs try to be kind, and send cooked food every day: Abed
+is the chief donor. I taught him to make a mosquito-curtain of thin
+printed calico, for he had endured the persecution of these insects
+helplessly, except by sleeping on a high stage, when they were unusually
+bad. The Manyuema often bring evil on themselves by being untrustworthy.
+For instance, I paid one to bring a large canoe to cross the Lualaba, he
+brought a small one, capable of carrying three only, and after wasting
+some hours we had to put off crossing till next day.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Every headman of four or five huts is a mologhw&eacute;, or
+chief, and glories in being called so. There is no political cohesion.
+The Ujijian slavery is an accursed system; but it must be admitted that
+the Manyuema, too, have faults, the result of ignorance of other people:
+their isolation has made them as unconscious of danger in dealing with
+the cruel stranger, as little dogs in the <a name="Page_115" id="Page_115" />presence of lions. Their
+refusal to sell or lend canoes for fear of blame by each other will be
+ended by the party of Dugumb&eacute;, which has ten headmen, taking them by
+force; they are unreasonable and bloody-minded towards each other: every
+Manyuema would like every other headman slain; they are subjected to
+bitter lessons and sore experience. Abed went over to Mologhw&eacute; Kahemb&eacute;
+and mixed blood with him; he was told that two large canoes were
+hollowed out, and nearly ready to be brought for sale; if this can be
+managed peaceably it is a great point gained, and I may get one at our
+Arabs' price, which may be three or four times the native price. There
+is no love lost among the three Arabs here.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Cut wood for my house. The Lo&eacute;ki is said by slaves
+who have come thence to be much larger than the Lualaba, but on the
+return of Abed's people from the west we shall obtain better
+information.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Chitoka, or market, to-day. I counted upwards of
+700 passing my door. With market women it seems to be a pleasure of life
+to haggle and joke, and laugh and cheat: many come eagerly, and retire
+with careworn faces; many are beautiful, and many old; all carry very
+heavy loads of dried cassava and earthen pots, which they dispose of
+very cheaply for palm-oil, fish, salt, pepper, and relishes for their
+food. The men appear in gaudy lambas, and carry little save their iron
+wares, fowls, grass cloth, and pigs.</p>
+
+<p>Bought the fish with the long snouts: very good eating.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;New moon last night; fourth Arab month: I am at a
+loss for the day of the month. My new house is finished; a great
+comfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin: bugs (Tapazi, or
+ticks), that follow wherever Arabs go, made me miserable, but the Arabs
+are insensible to them; Abed alone had a mosquito-curtain, and he never
+could praise it enough. One of his remarks is, &quot;If slaves <a name="Page_116" id="Page_116" />think you
+fear them, they will climb over you.&quot; I clothed mine for nothing, and
+ever after they have tried to ride roughshod over me, and mutiny on
+every occasion!</p>
+
+<p><i>14th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Kahemb&eacute; came over, and promises to bring a canoe;
+but he is not to be trusted; he presented Abed with two slaves, and is
+full of fair promises about the canoe, which he sees I am anxious to
+get. They all think that my buying a canoe means carrying war to the
+left bank; and now my Banian slaves encourage the idea: &quot;He does not
+wish slaves nor ivory,&quot; say they, &quot;but a canoe, in order to kill
+Manyuema.&quot; Need it be wondered at that people, who had never heard of
+strangers or white men before I popped down among them, believed the
+slander? The slaves were aided in propagating the false accusation by
+the half-caste Ujijian slaves at the camp. Hassani fed them every day;
+and, seeing that he was a bigoted Moslem, they equalled him in prayers
+in his sitting-place seven or eight times a day! They were adepts at
+lying, and the first Manyuema words they learned were used to propagate
+falsehood.</p>
+
+<p>I have been writing part of a despatch, in case of meeting people from
+the French settlement on the Gaboon at Lo&eacute;ki, but the canoe affair is
+slow and tedious: the people think only of war: they are a bloody-minded
+race.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;The Manyuema tribe, called Bagenya, occupy the left
+bank, opposite Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute;. A spring of brine rises in the bed of a river,
+named Lofubu, and this the Bayenga inspissate by boiling, and sell the
+salt at market. The Lomam&eacute; is about ten days west of Lualaba, and very
+large; the confluence of Lomam&eacute;, or Lo&eacute;ki, is about six days down below
+Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute; by canoe; the river Nyanz&eacute; is still less distant.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;On the Nyanz&eacute; stands the principal town and market
+of the chief, Zurampela. Rashid visited him, and got two slaves on
+promising to bring a war-party from <a name="Page_117" id="Page_117" />Abed against Chipang&eacute;, who by
+similar means obtained the help of Salem Mokadam to secure eighty-two
+captives: Rashid will leave this as soon as possible, sell the slaves,
+and leave Zurampela to find out the fraud! This deceit, which is an
+average specimen of the beginning of half-caste dealings, vitiates his
+evidence of a specimen of cannibalism which he witnessed; but it was
+after a fight that the victims were cut up, and this agrees with the
+fact that the Manyuema eat only those who are killed in war. Some have
+averred that captives, too, are eaten, and a slave is bought with a goat
+to be eaten; but this I very strongly doubt.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Rainy.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;I found that the Lepidosiren is brought to market
+in pots with water in them, also white ants roasted, and the large
+snail, achetina, and a common snail: the Lepidosiren is called
+&quot;<i>semb&eacute;</i>.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Abed went a long way to examine a canoe, but it was still further, and
+he turned back.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Dreary waiting, but Abed proposes to join and trade
+along with me: this will render our party stronger, and he will not
+shoot people in my company; we shall hear Katomba's people's story too.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Katomba a chief was to visit us yesterday, but
+failed, probably through fear.</p>
+
+<p>The chief Mokandira says that Lo&eacute;ki is small where it joins Lualaba, but
+another, which they call Lomam&eacute;, is very much larger, and joins Lualaba
+too: rapids are reported on it.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st April, 1871.</i>&mdash;A common salutation reminds me of the Bechuana's &quot;U
+le hatsi&quot; (thou art on earth); &quot;Ua tala&quot; (thou lookest); &quot;Ua boka,&quot; or
+byoka (thou awakest); &quot;U ri ho&quot; (thou art here); &quot;U li koni&quot; (thou art
+here)&mdash;about pure &quot;Sichuana,&quot; and &quot;Nya,&quot; No, is identical. The men here
+deny that cannibalism is common: they eat only those killed in war, and,
+it seems, in revenge, for, said Mokandira, &quot;the meat <a name="Page_118" id="Page_118" />is not nice; it
+makes one dream of the dead man.&quot; Some west of Lualaba eat even those
+bought for the purpose of a feast; but I am not quite positive on this
+point: all agree in saying that human flesh is saltish, and needs but
+little condiment. And yet they are a fine-looking race; I would back a
+company of Manyuema men to be far superior in shape of head and
+generally in physical form too against the whole Anthropological
+Society. Many of the women are very light-coloured and very pretty; they
+dress in a kilt of many folds of gaudy lambas.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd April, 1871.</i>&mdash;In Manyuema, here Kusi, Kunzi, is north; Mhuru,
+south; Nkanda, west, or other side Lualaba; Mazimba, east. The people
+are sometimes confused in name by the directions; thus Bankanda is only
+&quot;the other side folk.&quot; The Bagenya Chimburu came to visit me, but I did
+not see him, nor did I know Moen&eacute; Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute; till too late to do him
+honour; in fact, every effort was made to keep me in the dark while the
+slavers of Ujiji made all smooth for themselves to get canoes. All
+chiefs claim the privilege of shaking hands, that is, they touch the
+hand held out with their palm, then clap two hands together, then touch
+again, and clap again, and the ceremony concludes: this frequency of
+shaking hands misled me when the great man came.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Old feuds lead the Manyuema to entrap the traders
+to fight: they invite them to go to trade, and tell them that at such a
+village plenty of ivory lies; then when the trader goes with his people,
+word is sent that he is coming to fight, and he is met by enemies, who
+compel him to defend himself by their onslaught. We were nearly
+entrapped in this way by a chief pretending to guide us through the
+country near Basila&ntilde;g&eacute;; he would have landed us in a fight, but we
+detected his drift, changed our course so as to mislead any messengers
+he might have sent, and dismissed him with some sharp words.</p>
+
+<p>Lake Kamolondo is about twenty-five miles broad. The <a name="Page_119" id="Page_119" />Lufira at Katanga
+is a full bow-shot wide; it goes into Kamolondo. Chakomo is east of
+Lufira Junction. Kikonz&eacute; Kalanza is on the west of it, and Mkana, or the
+underground dwellings, still further west: some are only two days from
+Katanga. The Chorw&eacute; people are friendly. Kamolondo is about ten days
+distant from Katanga.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;News came that four men sent by Abed to buy ivory
+had been entrapped, and two killed. The rest sent for aid to punish the
+murderers, and Abed wished me to send my people to bring the remaining
+two men back. I declined; because, no matter what charges I gave, my
+Banian slaves would be sure to shed human blood. We can go nowhere but
+the people of the country ask us to kill their fellow-men, nor can they
+be induced to go to villages three miles off, because there, in all
+probability, live the murderers of fathers, uncles, or grandfathers&mdash;a
+dreadful state truly. The traders are as bloodthirsty every whit as the
+Manyuema, where no danger exists, but in most cases where the people can
+fight they are as civil as possible. At Moer&eacute; Mpanda's, the son of
+Casembe, Mohamad Bogharib left a debt of twenty-eight slaves and eight
+bars of copper, each seventy pounds, and did not dare to fire a shot
+because they saw they had met their match: here his headmen are said to
+have bound the headmen of villages till a ransom was paid in tusks! Had
+they only gone three days further to the Babisa, to whom Moene-mokaia's
+men went, they would have got fine ivory at two rings a tusk, while they
+had paid from ten to eighteen. Here it is as sad a tale to tell as was
+that of the Manganja scattered and peeled by the Waiyau agents of the
+Portuguese of T&eacute;tte. The good Lord look on it.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Chitovu called nine slaves bought by Abed's people
+from the Kuss country, west of the Lualaba, and asked them about their
+tribes and country for me. One, with his upper front teeth extracted,
+was of the tribe Maloba, on the <a name="Page_120" id="Page_120" />other side of the Lo&eacute;ki, another comes
+from the River Lombadzo, or Lombazo, which is west of Lo&eacute;ki (this may be
+another name for the Lomam&eacute;), the country is called Nanga, and the tribe
+No&ntilde;go, chief Mpunzo. The Malobo tribe is under the chiefs Yunga and
+Lomadyo. Another toothless boy said that he came from the Lomam&eacute;: the
+upper teeth extracted seem to say that the tribe have cattle; the
+knocking out the teeth is in imitation of the animals they almost
+worship. No traders had ever visited them; this promises ivory to the
+present visitors: all that is now done with the ivory there is to make
+rude blowing horns and bracelets.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Waiting wearily and anxiously; we cannot move
+people who are far off and make them come near with news. Even the
+owners of canoes say, &quot;Yes, yes; we shall bring them,&quot; but do not stir;
+they doubt us, and my slaves increase the distrust by their lies to the
+Manyuema.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th April, 1871.</i>&mdash;Abed sent over Manyuema to buy slaves for him and
+got a pretty woman for 300 cowries and a hundred strings of beads; she
+can be sold again to an Arab for much more in ivory. Abed himself gave
+$130 for a woman-cook, and she fled to me when put in chains for some
+crime: I interceded, and she was loosed: I advised her not to offend
+again, because I could not beg for her twice.</p>
+
+<p>Hassani with ten slaves dug at the malachite mines of Katanga for three
+months, and gained a hundred frasilahs of copper, or 3500 lbs. We hear
+of a half-caste reaching the other side of Lomam&eacute;, probably from Congo
+or Ambriz, but the messengers had not seen him.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st May, 1871.</i>&mdash;Katomba's people arrived from the Babisa, where they
+sold all their copper at two rings for a tusk, and then found that
+abundance of ivory still remained: door-posts and house-pillars had been
+made of ivory which now was rotten. The people of Babisa kill elephants
+now and bring tusks by the dozen, till the traders get so many that <a name="Page_121" id="Page_121" />in
+this case they carried them by three relays. They dress their hair like
+the Bashukulompo, plaited into upright basket helmets: no quarrel
+occurred, and great kindness was shown to the strangers. A river having
+very black water, the Nyenger&eacute;, flows into Lualaba from the west, and it
+becomes itself very large: another river or water, Shamikwa, falls into
+it from the south-west, and it becomes still larger: this is probably
+the Lomam&eacute;. A short-horned antelope is common.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd May, 1871.</i>&mdash;Abed informs me that a canoe will come in five days.
+Word was sent after me by the traders south of us not to aid me, as I
+was sure to die where I was going: the wish is father to the thought!
+Abed was naturally very anxious to get first into the Babisa ivory
+market, yet he tried to secure a canoe for me before he went, but he was
+too eager, and a Manyuema man took advantage of his desire, and came
+over the river and said that he had one hollowed out, and he wanted
+goats and beads to hire people to drag it down to the water. Abed on my
+account advanced five goats, a thousand cowries, and many beads, and
+said that he would tell me what he wished in return: this was debt, but
+I was so anxious to get away I was content to take the canoe on any
+terms. However, it turned out that the matter on the part of the headman
+whom Abed trusted was all deception: he had no canoe at all, but knew of
+one belonging to another man, and wished to get Abed and me to send men
+to see it&mdash;in fact, to go with their guns, and he would manage to
+embroil them with the real owner, so that some old feud should be
+settled to his satisfaction. On finding that I declined to be led into
+his trap, he took a female slave to the owner, and on his refusal to
+sell the canoe for her, it came out that he had adopted a system of
+fraud to Abed. He had victimized Abed, who was naturally inclined to
+believe his false statements, and get off to the ivory market. His
+people came from the Kuss <a name="Page_122" id="Page_122" />country in the west with sixteen tusks, and a
+great many slaves bought and not murdered for. The river is rising fast,
+and bringing down large quantities of aquatic grass, duckweed, &amp;c. The
+water is a little darker in colour than at Cairo. People remove and
+build their huts on the higher forest lands adjacent. Many white birds
+(the paddy bird) appear, and one Ibis religiosa; they pass north.</p>
+
+<p>The Bakuss live near Lomam&eacute;; they were very civil and kind to the
+strangers, but refused passage into the country. At my suggestion, the
+effect of a musket-shot was shown on a goat: they thought it
+supernatural, looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to buy
+the charm that could draw lightning down. When it was afterwards
+attempted to force a path, they darted aside on seeing the Banyamwezi's
+followers putting the arrows into the bowstrings, but stood in mute
+amazement looking at the guns, which mowed them down in large numbers.
+They thought that muskets were the insignia of chieftainship. Their
+chiefs all go with a long straight staff of rattan, having a quantity of
+black medicine smeared on each end, and no weapons in their hands: they
+imagined that the guns were carried as insignia of the same kind; some,
+jeering in the south, called them big tobacco-pipes; they have no fear
+on seeing a gun levelled at them.</p>
+
+<p>They use large and very long spears very expertly in the long grass and
+forest of their country, and are terrible fellows among themselves, and
+when they become acquainted with firearms will be terrible to the
+strangers who now murder them. The Manyuema say truly, &quot;If it were not
+for your guns, not one of you would ever return to your country.&quot; The
+Bakuss cultivate more than the southern Manyuema, especially Pennisetum
+and dura, or <i>Holeus sorghum;</i> common coffee is abundant, and they use
+it, highly scented with vanilla, which must be fertilized by <a name="Page_123" id="Page_123" />insects;
+they hand round cups of it after meals. Pineapples too are abundant.
+They bathe regularly twice a day: their houses are of two storeys. The
+women have rather compressed heads, but very pleasant countenances; and
+ancient Egyptian, round, wide-awake eyes. Their numbers are prodigious;
+the country literally swarms with people, and a chief's town extends
+upwards of a mile. But little of the primeval forest remains. Many large
+pools of standing water have to be crossed, but markets are held every
+eight or ten miles from each other, and to these the people come from
+far, for the market is as great an institution as shopping is with the
+civilized. Illicit intercourse is punished by the whole of the
+offender's family being enslaved.</p>
+
+<p>The Bakuss smelt copper from the ore and sell it very cheaply to the
+traders for beads. The project of going in canoes now appeared to the
+half-castes so plausible, that they all tried to get the Bagenya on the
+west bank to lend them, and all went over to mix blood and make friends
+with the owners, then all slandered me as not to be trusted, as they
+their blood-relations were; and my slaves mutinied and would go no
+further. They mutinied three times here, and Hassani harboured them till
+I told him that, if an English officer harboured an Arab slave he would
+be compelled by the Consul to refund the price, and I certainly would
+not let him escape; this frightened him; but I was at the mercy of
+slaves who had no honour, and no interest in going into danger.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th May, 1871.</i>&mdash;Abed gave me a frasilah of Matunda beads, and I
+returned fourteen fathoms of fine American sheeting, but it was an
+obligation to get beads from one whose wealth depended on exchanging
+beads for ivory.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th May, 1871.</i>&mdash;At least 3000 people at market to-day, and my going
+among them has taken away the fear engendered by the slanders of slaves
+and traders, for all are pleased to <a name="Page_124" id="Page_124" />tell me the names of the fishes and
+other things. Lepidosirens are caught by the neck and lifted out of the
+pot to show their fatness. Camwood ground and made into flat cakes for
+sale and earthen balls, such as are eaten in the disease safura or
+earth-eating, are offered and there is quite a roar of voices in the
+multitude, haggling. It was pleasant to be among them compared to being
+with the slaves, who were all eager to go back to Zanzibar: some told me
+that they were slaves, and required a free man to thrash them, and
+proposed to go back to Ujiji for one. I saw no hope of getting on with
+them, and anxiously longed for the arrival of Dugumb&eacute;; and at last Abed
+overheard them plotting my destruction. &quot;If forced to go on, they would
+watch till the first difficulty arose with the Manyuema, then fire off
+their guns, run away, and as I could not run as fast as they, leave me
+to perish.&quot; Abed overheard them speaking loudly, and advised me strongly
+not to trust myself to them any more, as they would be sure to cause my
+death. He was all along a sincere friend, and I could not but take his
+words as well-meant and true.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th May, 1871.</i>&mdash;Abed gave me 200 cowries and some green beads. I was
+at the point of disarming my slaves and driving them away, when they
+relented, and professed to be willing to go anywhere; so, being eager to
+finish my geographical work, I said I would run the risk of their
+desertion, and gave beads to buy provisions for a start north. I cannot
+state how much I was worried by these wretched slaves, who did much to
+annoy me, with the sympathy of all the slaving crew. When baffled by
+untoward circumstances the bowels plague me too, and discharges of blood
+relieve the headache, and are as safety-valves to the system. I was
+nearly persuaded to allow Mr. Syme to operate on me when last in
+England, but an old friend told me that his own father had been operated
+on by the famous John Hunter, and died in consequence at the <a name="Page_125" id="Page_125" />early age
+of forty. His advice saved me, for this complaint has been my
+safety-valve.</p>
+
+<p>The Zingifur&eacute;, or red pigment, is said to be a cure for itch common
+among both natives and Arab slaves and Arab children.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th May, 1871.</i>&mdash;Abed called Kalonga the headman, who beguiled him as
+I soon found, and delivered the canoe he had bought formally to me, and
+went off down the Lualaba on foot to buy the Babisa ivory. I was to
+follow in the canoe and wait for him in the River Lu&eacute;ra, but soon I
+ascertained that the canoe was still in the forest, and did not belong
+to Kalonga. On demanding back the price he said, &quot;Let Abed come and I
+will give it to him;&quot; then when I sent to force him to give up the
+goods, all his village fled into the forest: I now tried to buy one
+myself from the Bagenya, but there was no chance; so long as the
+half-caste traders needed any they got all&mdash;nine large canoes, and I
+could not secure one.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th May, 1871.</i>&mdash;The market is a busy scene&mdash;everyone is in dead
+earnest&mdash;little time is lost in friendly greetings; vendors of fish run
+about with potsherds full of snails or small fishes or young <i>Clarias
+capensis</i> smoke-dried and spitted on twigs, or other relishes to
+exchange for cassava roots dried after being steeped about three days in
+water&mdash;potatoes, vegetables, or grain, bananas, flour, palm-oil, fowls,
+salt, pepper; each is intensely eager to barter food for relishes, and
+makes strong assertions as to the goodness or badness of everything: the
+sweat stands in beads on their faces&mdash;cocks crow briskly, even when
+slung over the shoulder with their heads hanging down, and pigs squeal.
+Iron knobs, drawn out at each end to show the goodness of the metal, are
+exchanged for cloth of the Muab&eacute; palm. They have a large funnel of
+basket-work below the vessel holding the wares, and slip the goods down
+if they are not to be seen. They deal fairly, and when differences arise
+they are <a name="Page_126" id="Page_126" />easily settled by the men interfering or pointing to me: they
+appeal to each other, and have a strong sense of natural justice. With
+so much food changing hands amongst the three thousand attendants much
+benefit is derived; some come from twenty to twenty-five miles. The men
+flaunt about in gaudy-coloured lambas of many folded kilts&mdash;the women
+work hardest&mdash;the potters slap and ring their earthenware all round, to
+show that there is not a single flaw in them. I bought two finely shaped
+earthen bottles of porous earthenware, to hold a gallon each, for one
+string of beads, the women carry huge loads of them in their funnels
+above the baskets, strapped to the shoulders and forehead, and their
+hands are full besides; the roundness of the vessels is wonderful,
+seeing no machine is used: no slaves could be induced to carry half as
+much as they do willingly. It is a scene of the finest natural acting
+imaginable. The eagerness with which all sorts of assertions are
+made&mdash;the eager earnestness with which apparently all creation, above,
+around, and beneath, is called on to attest the truth of what they
+allege&mdash;and then the intense surprise and withering scorn cast on those
+who despise their goods: but they show no concern when the buyers turn
+up their noses at them. Little girls run about selling cups of water for
+a few small fishes to the half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it was
+an amusing scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off their
+glib tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to need
+interpretation.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th May, 1871.</i>&mdash;Hassani told me that since he had come, no Manyuema
+had ever presented him with a single mouthful of food, not even a potato
+or banana, and he had made many presents. Going from him into the market
+I noticed that one man presented a few small fishes, another a sweet
+potato and a piece of cassava, and a third two small fishes, but the
+Manyuema are not a liberal people. Old men and women who remained in the
+half-deserted villages we passed <a name="Page_127" id="Page_127" />through in coming north, often ran
+forth to present me with bananas, but it seemed through fear; when I sat
+down and ate the bananas they brought beer of bananas, and I paid for
+all. A stranger in the market had ten human under jaw-bones hung by a
+string over his shoulder: on inquiry he professed to have killed and
+eaten the owners, and showed with his knife how he cut up his victim.
+When I expressed disgust he and others laughed. I see new faces every
+market-day. Two nice girls were trying to sell their venture, which was
+roasted white ants, called &quot;Gumb&eacute;.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>30th May, 1871.</i>&mdash;The river fell four inches during the last four days;
+the colour is very dark brown, and large quantities of aquatic plants
+and trees float down. Mologhw&eacute;, or chief Ndambo, came and mixed blood
+with the intensely bigoted Moslem, Hassani: this is to secure the nine
+canoes. He next went over to have more palaver about them, and they do
+not hesitate to play me false by detraction. The Manyuema, too, are
+untruthful, but very honest; we never lose an article by them: fowls and
+goats are untouched, and if a fowl is lost, we know that it has been
+stolen by an Arab slave. When with Mohamad Bogharib, we had all to keep
+our fowls at the Manyuema villages to prevent them being stolen by our
+own slaves, and it is so here. Hassani denies complicity with them, but
+it is quite apparent that he and others encourage them in mutiny.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;The river rose again six inches and fell three. Rain
+nearly ceased, and large masses of fleecy clouds float down here from
+the north-west, with accompanying cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;I fear that I must march on foot, but the mud is
+forbidding.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;New moon last night, and I believe Dugumb&eacute; will
+leave Kasonga's to-day. River down three inches.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;Hassani got nine canoes, and put sixty-three persons
+in three; I cannot get one. Dugumb&eacute; reported near, but detained by his
+divination, at which he is <a name="Page_128" id="Page_128" />an expert; hence his native name is
+&quot;Molembalemba&quot;&mdash;&quot;writer, writing.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>16th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;The high winds and drying of soap and sugar tell
+that the rains are now over in this part.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;Dugumb&eacute; arrived, but passed to Moen&eacute; Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute;'s, and
+found that provisions were so scarce, and dear there, as compared with
+our market, that he was fain to come back to us. He has a large party
+and 500 guns. He is determined to go into new fields of trade, and has
+all his family with him, and intends to remain six or seven years,
+sending regularly to Ujiji for supplies of goods.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;Two of Dugumb&eacute;'s party brought presents of four
+large fundos of beads each. All know that my goods are unrighteously
+detained by Shereef and they show me kindness, which I return by some
+fine calico which I have. Among the first words Dugumb&eacute; said to me were,
+&quot;Why your own slaves are your greatest enemies: I will buy you a canoe,
+but the Banian slaves' slanders have put all the Manyuema against you.&quot;
+I knew that this was true, and that they were conscious of the sympathy
+of the Ujijian traders, who hate to have me here.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;Hassani's canoe party in the river were foiled by
+narrows, after they had gone down four days. Rocks jut out on both
+sides, not opposite, but alternate to each other; and the vast mass of
+water of the great river jammed in, rushes round one promontory on to
+another, and a frightful whirlpool is formed in which the first canoe
+went and was overturned, and five lives lost. Had I been there, mine
+would have been the first canoe, for the traders would have made it a
+point of honour to give me the precedence (although actually to make a
+feeler of me), while they looked on in safety. The men in charge of
+Hassani's canoes were so frightened by this accident that they at once
+resolved to return, though they had arrived in the country of the ivory:
+they never looked to see whether the canoes <a name="Page_129" id="Page_129" />could be dragged past the
+narrows, as anyone else would have done. No better luck could be
+expected after all their fraud and duplicity in getting the canoes; no
+harm lay in obtaining them, but why try to prevent me getting one?</p>
+
+<p><i>27th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;In answer to my prayers for preservation, I was
+prevented going down to the narrows, formed by a dyke of mountains
+cutting across country, and jutting a little ajar, which makes the water
+in an enormous mass wheel round behind it helplessly, and if the canoes
+reach the rock against which the water dashes, they are almost certainly
+overturned. As this same dyke probably cuts across country to Lomam&eacute;, my
+plan of going to the confluence and then up won't do, for I should have
+to go up rapids there. Again, I was prevented from going down Luamo, and
+on the north of its confluence another cataract mars navigation in the
+Lualaba, and my safety is thereby secured. We don't always know the
+dangers that we are guided past.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;The river has fallen two feet: dark brown water, and
+still much wreck floating down.</p>
+
+<p>Eight villages are in flames, set fire to by a slave of Syde bin Habib,
+called Manilla, who thus shows his blood friends of the Bagenya how well
+he can fight against the Mohombo, whose country the Bagenya want! The
+stragglers of this camp are over on the other side helping Manilla, and
+catching fugitives and goats. The Bagenya are fishermen by taste and
+profession, and sell the produce of their nets and weirs to those who
+cultivate the soil, at the different markets. Manilla's foray is for an
+alleged debt of three slaves, and ten villages are burned.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th June, 1871.</i>&mdash;Hassani pretended that he was not aware of Manilla's
+foray, and when I denounced it to Manilla himself, he showed that he was
+a slave, by cringing and saying nothing except something about the debt
+of three slaves.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130" /><i>1st July, 1871.</i>&mdash;I made known my plan to Dugumb&eacute;, which was to go
+west with his men to Lomam&eacute;, then by his aid buy a canoe and go up Lake
+Lincoln to Katanga and the fountains, examine the inhabited caves, and
+return here, if he would let his people bring me goods from Ujiji; he
+again referred to all the people being poisoned in mind against me, but
+was ready to do everything in his power for my success. My own people
+persuaded the Bagenya not to sell a canoe: Hassani knows it all, but
+swears that he did not join in the slander, and even points up to Heaven
+in attestation of innocence of all, even of Manilla's foray. Mohamadans
+are certainly famous as liars, and the falsehood of Mohamad has been
+transmitted to his followers in a measure unknown in other religions.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd July, 1871.</i>&mdash;The upper stratum of clouds is from the north-west,
+the lower from the south-east; when they mix or change places the
+temperature is much lowered, and fever ensues. The air evidently comes
+from the Atlantic, over the low swampy lands of the West Coast. Morning
+fogs show that the river is warmer than the air.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;Hassani off down river in high dudgeon at the cowards
+who turned after reaching the ivory country. He leaves them here and
+goes himself, entirely on land. I gave him hints to report himself and
+me to Baker, should he meet any of his headmen.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;The river has fallen three feet in all, that is one
+foot since 27th June.</p>
+
+<p>I offer Dugumb&eacute; $2000, or 400<i>l.</i>, for ten men to replace the Banian
+slaves, and enable me to go up the Lomam&eacute; to Katanga and the underground
+dwellings, then return and go up by Tanganyika to Ujiji, and I added
+that I would give all the goods I had at Ujiji besides: he took a few
+days to consult with his associates.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mokandira, and other headmen, came with a present of
+a pig and a goat on my being about to <a name="Page_131" id="Page_131" />depart west. I refused to receive
+them till my return, and protested against the slander of my wishing to
+kill people, which they all knew, but did not report to me: this refusal
+and protest will ring all over the country.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;I was annoyed by a woman frequently beating a slave
+near my house, but on my reproving her she came and apologized. I told
+her to speak softly to her slave, as she was now the only mother the
+girl had; the slave came from beyond Lomam&eacute;, and was evidently a lady in
+her own land; she calls her son Mologw&eacute;, or chief, because his father
+was a headman.</p>
+
+<p>Dugumb&eacute; advised my explaining my plan of procedure to the slaves, and he
+evidently thinks that I wish to carry it towards them with a high hand.
+I did explain all the exploration I intended to do: for instance, the
+fountains of Herodotus&mdash;beyond Katanga&mdash;Katanga itself, and the
+underground dwellings, and then return. They made no remarks, for they
+are evidently pleased to have me knuckling down to them; when pressed on
+the point of proceeding, they say they will only go with Dugumb&eacute;'s men
+to the Lomam&eacute;, and then return. River fallen three inches since the 5th.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;Manyuema children do not creep, as European children
+do, on their knees, but begin by putting forward one foot and using one
+knee. Generally a Manyuema child uses both feet and both hands, but
+never both knees: one Arab child did the same; he never crept, but got
+up on both feet, holding on till he could walk.</p>
+
+<p>New moon last night of seventh Arab month.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;I bought the different species of fish brought to
+market, in order to sketch eight of them, and compare them with those of
+the Nile lower down: most are the same as in Nyassa. A very active
+species of Glanis, of dark olive-brown, was not sketched, but a spotted
+one, armed with offensive spikes in the dorsal and pectoral fins, was
+taken. <a name="Page_132" id="Page_132" />Sesamum seed is abundant just now and cakes are made of
+ground-nuts, as on the West Coast. Dugumb&eacute;'s horde tried to deal in the
+market in a domineering way. &quot;I shall buy that,&quot; said one. &quot;These are
+mine,&quot; said another; &quot;no one must touch them but me,&quot; but the
+market-women taught them that they could not monopolize, but deal
+fairly. They are certainly clever traders, and keep each other in
+countenance, they stand by each other, and will not allow overreaching,
+and they give food astonishingly cheap: once in the market they have no
+fear.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th and 13th July 1871.</i>&mdash;The Banian slaves declared before Dugumb&eacute;
+that they would go to the River Lomam&eacute;, but no further: he spoke long to
+them, but they will not consent to go further. When told that they would
+thereby lose all their pay, they replied, &quot;Yes, but not our lives,&quot; and
+they walked off from him muttering, which is insulting to one of his
+rank. I then added, &quot;I have goods at Ujiji; I don't know how many, but
+they are considerable, take them all, and give me men to finish my work;
+if not enough, I will add to them, only do not let me be forced to
+return now I am so near the end of my undertaking.&quot; He said he would
+make a plan in conjunction with his associates, and report to me.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;I am distressed and perplexed what to do so as not
+to be foiled, but all seems against me.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;The reports of guns on the other side of the Lualaba
+all the morning tell of the people of Dugumb&eacute; murdering those of Kimburu
+and others who mixed blood with Manilla. &quot;Manilla is a slave, and how
+dares he to mix blood with chiefs who ought only to make friends with
+free men like us&quot;&mdash;this is their complaint. Kimburu gave Manilla three
+slaves, and he sacked ten villages in token of friendship; he proposed
+to give Dugumb&eacute; nine slaves in the same operation, but Dugumb&eacute;'s people
+destroy his villages, and shoot and make his people captives to <a name="Page_133" id="Page_133" />punish
+Manilla; to make an impression, in fact, in the country that they alone
+are to be dealt with&mdash;&quot;make friends with us, and not with Manilla or
+anyone else&quot;&mdash;such is what they insist upon.</p>
+
+<p>About 1500 people came to market, though many villages of those that
+usually come from the other side were now in flames, and every now and
+then a number of shots were fired on the fugitives.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp133" id="fp133" />
+<img src="images/fp133.jpg" width="550" height="312" alt="The Massacre of the Manyuema Women at Nyangwe" title="The Massacre of the Manyuema Women at Nyangwe" />
+<b>The Massacre of the Manyuema Women at Nyangwe</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the market I saw Adie and
+Manilla, and three of the men who had lately come with Dugumb&eacute;. I was
+surprised to see these three with their guns, and felt inclined to
+reprove them, as one of my men did, for bringing weapons into the
+market, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being very hot,
+I was walking away to go out of the market, when I saw one of the
+fellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before I had got
+thirty yards out, the discharge of two guns in the middle of the crowd
+told me that slaughter had begun: crowds dashed off from the place, and
+threw down their wares in confusion, and ran. At the same time that the
+three opened fire on the mass of people near the upper end of the
+marketplace volleys were discharged from a party down near the creek on
+the panic-stricken women, who dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty or
+more, were jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in the
+terror that seized all. The canoes were not to be got out, for the creek
+was too small for so many; men and women, wounded by the balls, poured
+into them, and leaped and scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long
+line of heads in the river showed that great numbers struck out for an
+island a full mile off: in going towards it they had to put the left
+shoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if they had struck
+away diagonally to the opposite bank, the current would have aided them,
+and, though nearly three miles off, some would have gained land: as it
+was, the heads <a name="Page_134" id="Page_134" />above water showed the long line of those that would
+inevitably perish.</p>
+
+<p>Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and perishing.
+Some of the long line of heads disappeared quietly; whilst other poor
+creatures threw their arms high, as if appealing to the great Father
+above, and sank. One canoe took in as many as it could hold, and all
+paddled with hands and arms: three canoes, got out in haste, picked up
+sinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared. One man
+in a long canoe, which could have held forty or fifty, had clearly lost
+his head; he had been out in the stream before the massacre began, and
+now paddled up the river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning.
+By-and-bye all the heads disappeared; some had turned down stream
+towards the bank, and escaped. Dugumb&eacute; put people into one of the
+deserted vessels to save those in the water, and saved twenty-one, but
+one woman refused to be taken on board from thinking that she was to be
+made a slave of; she preferred the chance of life by swimming, to the
+lot of a slave: the Bagenya women are expert in the water, as they are
+accustomed to dive for oysters, and those who went down stream may have
+escaped, but the Arabs themselves estimated the loss of life at between
+330 and 400 souls. The shooting-party near the canoes were so reckless,
+they killed two of their own people; and a Banyamwezi follower, who got
+into a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water, went down, then
+came up again, and down to rise no more.</p>
+
+<p>My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumb&eacute; protested
+against my getting into a blood-feud, and I was thankful afterwards that
+I took his advice. Two wretched Moslems asserted &quot;that the firing was
+done by the people of the English;&quot; I asked one of them why he lied so,
+and he could utter no excuse: no other falsehood came to his aid as he
+stood abashed, before me, and so telling him not to tell palpable
+falsehoods, I left him gaping.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135" />After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Tagamoio, who was
+the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on the people there and fire
+their villages. As I write I hear the loud wails on the left bank over
+those who are there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the
+depths of Lualaba. Oh, let Thy kingdom come! No one will ever know the
+exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning, it gave me the
+impression of being in Hell. All the slaves in the camp rushed at the
+fugitives on land, and plundered them: women were for hours collecting
+and carrying loads of what had been thrown down in terror.</p>
+
+<p>Some escaped to me, and were protected: Dugumb&eacute; saved twenty-one, and of
+his own accord liberated them, they were brought to me, and remained
+over night near my house. One woman of the saved had a musket-ball
+through the thigh, another in the arm. I sent men with our flag to save
+some, for without a flag they might have been victims, for Tagamoio's
+people were shooting right and left like fiends. I counted twelve
+villages burning this morning. I asked the question of Dugumb&eacute; and
+others, &quot;Now for what is all this murder?&quot; All blamed Manilla as its cause, and in one sense he was the
+cause; but it is hardly credible that they repeat it is in order to be
+avenged on Manilla for making friends with headmen, he being a slave. I
+cannot believe it fully. The wish to make an impression in the country
+as to the importance and greatness of the new comers was the most potent
+motive; but it was terrible that the murdering of so many should be
+contemplated at all. It made me sick at heart. Who could accompany the
+people of Dugumb&eacute; and Tagamoio to Lomam&eacute; and be free from
+blood-guiltiness?</p>
+
+<p>I proposed to Dugumb&eacute; to catch the murderers, and hang them up in the
+marketplace, as our protest against the bloody deeds before the
+Manyuema. If, as he and others added, the massacre was committed by
+Manilla's people, he would have consented; but it was done by
+<a name="Page_136" id="Page_136" />Tagamoio's people, and others of this party, headed by Dugumb&eacute;. This
+slaughter was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we have always heard
+that women coming to or from market have never been known to be
+molested: even when two districts are engaged in actual hostilities,
+&quot;the women,&quot; say they, &quot;pass among us to market unmolested,&quot; nor has one
+ever been known to be plundered by the men. These Nigger Moslems are
+inferior to the Manyuema in justice and right. The people under Hassani
+began the superwickedness of capture and pillage of all
+indiscriminately. Dugumb&eacute; promised to send over men to order Tagamoio's
+men to cease firing and burning villages; they remained over among the
+ruins, feasting on goats and fowls all night, and next day (16th)
+continued their infamous work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;I restored upwards of thirty of the rescued to their
+friends: Dugumb&eacute; seemed to act in good faith, and kept none of them; it
+was his own free will that guided him. Women are delivered to their
+husbands, and about thirty-three canoes left in the creek are to be kept
+for the owners too.</p>
+
+<p>12 A.M.&mdash;Shooting still going on on the other side, and many captives
+caught. At 1 P.M. Tagamoio's people began to cross over in canoes,
+beating their drums, firing their guns, and shouting, as if to say, &quot;See
+the conquering heroes come;&quot; they are answered by the women of Dugumba's
+camp lullilooing, and friends then fire off their guns in joy. I count
+seventeen villages in flames, and the smoke goes straight up and forms
+clouds at the top of the pillar, showing great heat evolved, for the
+houses are full of carefully-prepared firewood. Dugumb&eacute; denies having
+sent Tagamoio on this foray, and Tagamoio repeats that he went to punish
+the friends made by Manilla, who, being a slave, had no right to make
+war and burn villages, that could only be done by free men. Manilla
+confesses to me privately that <a name="Page_137" id="Page_137" />he did wrong in that, and loses all his
+beads and many friends in consequence.</p>
+
+<p>2 P.M.&mdash;An old man, called Kabobo, came for his old wife; I asked her if
+this were her husband, she went to him, and put her arm lovingly around
+him, and said &quot;Yes.&quot; I gave her five strings of beads to buy food, all
+her stores being destroyed with her house; she bowed down, and put her
+forehead to the ground as thanks, and old Kabobo did the same: the tears
+stood in her eyes as she went off. Tagamoio caught 17 women, and other
+Arabs of his party, 27; dead by gunshot, 25. The heads of two headmen
+were brought over to be redeemed by their friends with slaves.</p>
+
+<p>3 P.M.&mdash;Many of the headmen who have been burned out by the foray came
+over to me, and begged me to come back with them, and appoint new
+localities for them to settle in again, but I told them that I was so
+ashamed of the company in which I found myself, that I could scarcely
+look the Manyuema in the face. They had believed that I wished to kill
+them&mdash;what did they think now? I could not remain among bloody
+companions, and would flee away, I said, but they begged me hard not to
+leave until they were again settled.</p>
+
+<p>The open murder perpetrated on hundreds of unsuspecting women fills me
+with unspeakable horror: I cannot think of going anywhere with the
+Tagamoio crew; I must either go down or up Lualaba, whichever the Banian
+slaves choose.</p>
+
+<p>4 P.M.&mdash;Dugumb&eacute; saw that by killing the market people he had committed a
+great error, and speedily got the chiefs who had come over to me to meet
+him at his house, and forthwith mix blood: they were in bad case. I
+could not remain to see to their protection, and Dugumb&eacute;, being the best
+of the whole horde, I advised them to make friends, and then appeal to
+him as able to restrain to some extent his infamous underlings. One
+chief asked to have his wife and daughter restored to him first, but
+generally they were <a name="Page_138" id="Page_138" />cowed, and the fear of death was on them. Dugumb&eacute;
+said to me, &quot;I shall do my utmost to get all the captives, but he must
+make friends now, in order that the market may not be given up.&quot; Blood
+was mixed, and an essential condition was, &quot;You must give us chitoka,&quot;
+or market. He and most others saw that in theoretically punishing
+Manilla, they had slaughtered the very best friends that strangers had.
+The Banian slaves openly declare that they will go only to Lomam&eacute;, and
+no further. Whatever the Ujijian slavers may pretend, they all hate to
+have me as a witness of their cold-blooded atrocities. The Banian slaves
+would like to go with Tagamoio, and share in his rapine and get slaves.
+I tried to go down Lualaba, then up it, and west, but with bloodhounds
+it is out of the question. I see nothing for it but to go back to Ujiji
+for other men, though it will throw me out of the chance of discovering
+the fourth great Lake in the Lualaba line of drainage, and other things
+of great value.</p>
+
+<p>At last I said that I would start for Ujiji, in three days, on foot. I
+wished to speak to Tagamoio about the captive relations of the chiefs,
+but he always ran away when he saw me coming.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;All the rest of Dugumb&eacute;'s party offered me a share
+of every kind of goods they had, and pressed me not to be ashamed to
+tell them what I needed. I declined everything save a little gunpowder,
+but they all made presents of beads, and I was glad to return
+equivalents in cloth. It is a sore affliction, at least forty-five days
+in a straight line&mdash;equal to 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings
+600 English miles, and all after feeding and clothing the Banian slaves
+for twenty-one months! But it is for the best though; if I do not trust
+to the riffraff of Ujiji, I must wait for other men at least ten months
+there. With help from above I shall yet go through Rua, see the
+underground excavations first, then on to Katanga, and the four ancient
+fountains eight days beyond, and after that Lake Lincoln.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139" /><i>18th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;The murderous assault on the market people felt
+to me like Gehenna, without the fire and brimstone; but the heat was
+oppressive, and the firearms pouring their iron bullets on the
+fugitives, was not an inapt representative of burning in the bottomless
+pit.</p>
+
+<p>The terrible scenes of man's inhumanity to man brought on severe
+headache, which might have been serious had it not been relieved by a
+copious discharge of blood; I was laid up all yesterday afternoon, with
+the depression the bloodshed made,&mdash;it filled me with unspeakable
+horror. &quot;Don't go away,&quot; say the Manyuema chiefs to me; but I cannot
+stay here in agony.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;Dugumb&eacute; sent me a fine goat, a maneh of gunpowder, a
+maneh of fine blue beads, and 230 cowries, to buy provisions in the way.
+I proposed to leave a doti Merikano and one of Kanik&eacute; to buy specimens
+of workmanship. He sent me two very fine large Manyuema swords, and two
+equally fine spears, and said that I must not leave anything; he would
+buy others with his own goods, and divide them equally with me: he is
+very friendly.</p>
+
+<p>River fallen 4-1/2 feet since the 5th ult.</p>
+
+<p>A few market people appear to-day, formerly they came in crowds: a very
+few from the west bank bring salt to buy back the baskets from the camp
+slaves, which they threw away in panic, others carried a little food for
+sale, about 200 in all, chiefly those who have not lost relatives: one
+very beautiful woman had a gunshot wound in her upper arm tied round
+with leaves. Seven canoes came instead of fifty; but they have great
+tenacity and hopefulness, an old established custom has great charms for
+them, and the market will again be attended if no fresh outrage is
+committed. No canoes now come into the creek of death, but land above,
+at Ntambw&eacute;'s village: this creek, at the bottom of the long gentle slope
+on which the market was held, probably led to its selection.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140" />A young Manyuema man worked for one of Dugumb&eacute;'s people preparing a
+space to build on; when tired, he refused to commence to dig a pit, and
+was struck on the loins with an axe, and soon died: he was drawn out of
+the way, and his relations came, wailed over him, and buried him: they
+are too much awed to complain to Dugumb&eacute;!!</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI" /><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141" />CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusiz&eacute;. No outlet. &quot;Theoretical discovery&quot; of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyemb&eacute; with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of
+    game.&mdash;Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley.
+    Thankfulness at reaching Unyatiyemb&eacute;.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><i>20th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumb&eacute;'s people came to
+say good bye, and convoy me a little way. I made a short march, for
+being long inactive it is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it
+is then difficult to get over the effects.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st July, 1871.</i>&mdash;One of the slaves was sick, and the rest falsely
+reported him to be seriously ill, to give them time to negotiate for
+women with whom they had cohabited: Dugumb&eacute; saw through the fraud, and
+said &quot;Leave him to me: if he lives, I will feed him; if he dies, we
+will bury him: do not delay for any one, but travel in a compact body,
+as stragglers now are sure to be cut off.&quot; He lost a woman of his party,
+who lagged behind, and seven others were killed besides, and the forest
+hid the murderers. I was only too anxious to get away quickly, and on
+the 22nd started off at <a name="Page_142" id="Page_142" />daylight, and went about six miles to the
+village of Ma&ntilde;kwara, where I spent the night when coming this way. The
+chief Mokandira convoyed us hither: I promised him a cloth if I came
+across from Lomam&eacute;. He wonders much at the underground houses, and never
+heard of them till I told him about them. Many of the gullies which were
+running fast when we came were now dry. Thunder began, and a few drops
+of rain fell.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd-24th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;We crossed the River Kunda, of fifty yards, in
+two canoes, and then ascended from the valley of denudation, in which it
+flows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds followed, all anxious to carry loads
+for a few beads. Several market people came to salute, who knew that we
+had no hand in the massacre, as we are a different people from the
+Arabs. In going and coming they must have a march of 25 miles with loads
+so heavy no slave would carry them. They speak of us as &quot;good:&quot; the
+anthropologists think that to be spoken of as wicked is better. Ezekiel
+says that the Most High put His comeliness upon Jerusalem: if He does
+not impart of His goodness to me I shall never be good: if He does not
+put of His comeliness on me I shall never be comely in soul, but be like
+these Arabs in whom Satan has full sway&mdash;the god of this world having
+blinded their eyes.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;We came over a beautiful country yesterday, a vast
+hollow of denudation, with much cultivation, intersected by a ridge some
+300 feet high, on which the villages are built: this is Lobango. The
+path runs along the top of the ridge, and we see the fine country below
+all spread out with different shades of green, as on a map. The colours
+show the shapes of the different plantations in the great hollow drained
+by the Kunda. After crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, which flows into
+the Kunda, and it into Lualaba, we rose on to another intersecting
+ridge, having a great many villages burned by Matereka or Salem
+Mokadam's people, since we passed them <a name="Page_143" id="Page_143" />in our course N.W. They had
+slept on the ridge after we saw them, and next morning, in sheer
+wantonness, fired their lodgings,&mdash;their slaves had evidently carried
+the fire along from their lodgings, and set fire to houses of villages
+in their route as a sort of horrid Moslem Nigger joke; it was done only
+because they could do it without danger of punishment: it was such fun
+to make the Mashens&eacute;, as they call all natives, houseless. Men are worse
+than beasts of prey, if indeed it is lawful to call Zanzibar slaves men.
+It is monstrous injustice to compare free Africans living under their
+own chiefs and laws, and cultivating their own free lands, with what
+slaves afterwards become at Zanzibar and elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;Came up out of the last valley of denudation&mdash;that
+drained by Kahembai, and then along a level land with open forest. Four
+men passed us in hot haste to announce the death of a woman at their
+village to her relations living at another. I heard of several deaths
+lately of dysentery. Pleurisy is common from cold winds from N.W.
+Twenty-two men with large square black shields, capable of completely
+hiding the whole person, came next in a trot to receive the body of
+their relative and all her gear to carry her to her own home for burial:
+about twenty women followed them, and the men waited under the trees
+till they should have wound the body up and wept over her. They smeared
+their bodies with clay, and their faces with soot. Reached our friend
+Kama.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;Left Kama's group of villages and went through many
+others before we reached Kasongo's, and were welcomed by all the Arabs
+of the camp at this place. Bought two milk goats reasonably, and rest
+over Sunday. (<i>28th and 29th</i>). They asked permission to send a party
+with me for goods to Ujiji; this will increase our numbers, and perhaps
+safety too, among the justly irritated people between this and Bambarr&eacute;.
+All are enjoined to help me, <a name="Page_144" id="Page_144" />and of course I must do the same to them.
+It is colder here than at Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute;. Kasongo is off guiding an ivory or
+slaving party, and doing what business he can on his own account; he has
+four guns, and will be the first to maraud on his own account.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th July, 1871.</i>&mdash;They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seventeen
+Manyuema volunteers to carry thither and back: these are the very first
+who in modern times have ventured fifty miles from the place of their
+birth. I came only three miles to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoy&eacute;,
+and slept at village on a hill beyond it.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st July, 1871.</i>&mdash;Passed through the defile between Mount Kimazi and
+Mount Kijila. Below the cave with stalactite pillar in its door a fine
+echo answers those who feel inclined to shout to it. Come to Mangala's
+numerous villages, and two slaves being ill, rest on Wednesday.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st August, 1871.</i>&mdash;A large market assembles close to us.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Left Mangala's, and came through a great many
+villages all deserted on our approach on account of the vengeance taken
+by Dugumb&eacute;'s party for the murder of some of their people. Kasongo's men
+appeared eager to plunder their own countrymen: I had to scold and
+threaten them, and set men to watch their deeds. Plantains are here very
+abundant, good, and cheap. Came to Kittett&eacute;, and lodge in a village of
+Loembo. About thirty foundries were passed; they are very high in the
+roof, and thatched with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sand
+would. Rain runs off equally well.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon ivory we
+wait a day, Kasongo came up and filled their places.</p>
+
+<p>I have often observed effigies of men made of wood in Manyuema; some of
+clay are simply cones with a small hole in the top; on asking about them
+here, I for the first time obtained reliable information. They are
+called <a name="Page_145" id="Page_145" />Bathata&mdash;fathers or ancients&mdash;and the name of each is carefully
+preserved. Those here at Kittett&eacute; were evidently the names of chiefs,
+Molenda being the most ancient, whilst Mbayo Yamba, Kamoanga, Kitambw&eacute;,
+No&ntilde;go, Aulumba, Yeng&eacute; Yeng&eacute;, Simba Maya&ntilde;ga, Loembw&eacute;, are more recently
+dead. They were careful to have the exact pronunciation of the names.
+The old men told me that on certain occasions they offer goat's flesh to
+them: men eat it, and allow no young person or women to partake. The
+flesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old men. They say that if
+eaten by young men their children will have the waddling gait of the
+bird. They say that originally those who preceded Molenda came from
+Kongolakokwa, which conveys no idea to my mind. It was interesting to
+get even this little bit of history here. (Nko&ntilde;golo = Deity; Nko&ntilde;golokwa
+as the Deity.)</p>
+
+<p><i>4th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Came through miles of villages all burned because
+the people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings! The men had begun to
+re-thatch the huts, and kept out of our way, but a goat was speared by
+some one in hiding, and we knew danger was near. Abdullah admitted that
+he had no other reason for burning them than the unwillingness of the
+people to lodge him and his slaves without payment, with the certainty
+of getting their food stolen and utensils destroyed.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th and 6th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Through many miles of palm-trees and
+plantains to a Boma or stockaded village, where we slept, though the
+people were evidently suspicious and unfriendly.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;To a village, ill and almost every step in pain.
+The people all ran away, and appeared in the distance armed, and refused
+to come near&mdash;then came and threw stones at us, and afterwards tried to
+kill those who went for water. We sleep uncomfortably, the natives
+watching us all round. Sent men to see if the way was clear.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146" /><i>8th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;They would come to no parley. They knew their
+advantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from Bin Juma and Mohamad's
+men when they threw down the ivory in the forest. In passing along the
+narrow path with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand, we came
+to a point where an ambush had been placed, and trees cut down to
+obstruct us while they speared us; but for some reason it was abandoned.
+Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down to the earth and peering
+up towards the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen: this was an
+infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation meant a
+spear. A large spear from my right lunged past and almost grazed my
+back, and stuck firmly into the soil. The two men from whom it came
+appeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards off and bolted, one
+looking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they are expert with the
+spear I don't know how it missed, except that he was too sure of his aim
+and the good hand of God was upon me.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp146" id="fp146" />
+<img src="images/fp146.jpg" width="550" height="307" alt="The Manuema Ambush" title="The Manuema Ambush" />
+<b>The Manuema Ambush</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>I was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass till I, the
+leader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib, or Kolokolo himself,
+came up to the point where they lay. A red jacket they had formerly seen
+me wearing was proof to them, that I was the same that sent Bin Juma to
+kill five of their men, capture eleven women and children, and
+twenty-five goats. Another spear was thrown at me by an unseen
+assailant, and it missed me by about a foot in front. Guns were fired
+into the dense mass of forest, but with no effect, for nothing could be
+seen; but we heard the men jeering and denouncing us close by: two of
+our party were slain.</p>
+
+<p>Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation I noticed a
+gigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an ant-hill 20 feet high;
+it had fire applied near its roots, I heard a crack which told that the
+fire had done <a name="Page_147" id="Page_147" />its work, but felt no alarm till I saw it come straight
+towards me: I ran a few paces back, and down it came to the ground one
+yard behind me, and breaking into several lengths, it covered me with a
+cloud of dust. Had the branches not previously been rotted off, I could
+scarcely have escaped.</p>
+
+<p>Three times in one day was I delivered from impending death.</p>
+
+<p>My attendants, who were scattered in all directions, came running back
+to me, calling out, &quot;Peace! peace! you will finish all your work in
+spite of these people, and in spite of everything.&quot; Like them, I took it
+as an omen of good success to crown me yet, thanks to the &quot;Almighty
+Preserver of men.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by spearmen, who all
+felt that if they killed me they would be revenging the death of
+relations. From each hole in the tangled mass we looked for a spear; and
+each moment expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weapons
+hurled at us. I became weary with the constant strain of danger,
+and&mdash;as, I suppose, happens with soldiers on the field of battle&mdash;not
+courageous, but perfectly indifferent whether I were killed or not.</p>
+
+<p>When at last we got out of the forest and crossed the Liya on to the
+cleared lands near the villages of Monan-bundwa, we lay down to rest,
+and soon saw Muanampunda coming, walking up in a stately manner unarmed
+to meet us. He had heard the vain firing of my men into the bush, and
+came to ask what was the matter. I explained the mistake that Munangonga
+had made in supposing that I was Kolokolo, the deeds of whose men he
+knew, and then we went on to his village together.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening he sent to say that if I would give him all my people who
+had guns, he would call his people together, burn off all the vegetation
+they could fire, and <a name="Page_148" id="Page_148" />punish our enemies, bringing me ten goats instead
+of the three milch goats I had lost. I again explained that the attack
+was made by a mistake in thinking I was Mohamad Bogharib, and that I had
+no wish to kill men: to join in his old feud would only make matters
+worse. This he could perfectly understand.</p>
+
+<p>I lost all my remaining calico, a telescope, umbrella, and five spears,
+by one of the slaves throwing down the load and taking up his own bundle
+of country cloth.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Went on towards Mamohela, now deserted by the
+Arabs. Monanponda convoyed me a long way, and at one spot, with grass
+all trodden down, he said, &quot;Here we killed a man of Moezia and ate his
+body.&quot; The meat cut up had been seen by Dugumb&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;In connection with this affair the party that came
+through from Mamalulu found that a great fight had taken place at
+Muanampunda's, and they saw the meat cut up to be cooked with bananas.
+They did not like the strangers to look at their meat, but said, &quot;Go on,
+and let our feast alone,&quot; they did not want to be sneered at. The same
+Muanampunda or Monambonda told me frankly that they ate the man of
+Moezia: they seem to eat their foes to inspire courage, or in revenge.
+One point is very remarkable; it is not want that has led to the custom,
+for the country is full of food: nobody is starved of farinaceous food;
+they have maize, dura, pennisetum, cassava and sweet potatoes, and for
+fatty ingredients of diet, the palm-oil, ground-nuts, sessamum, and a
+tree whose fruit yields a fine sweet oil: the saccharine materials
+needed are found in the sugar-cane, bananas, and plantains.</p>
+
+<p>Goats, sheep, fowls, dogs, pigs, abound in the villages, whilst the
+forest affords elephants, zebras, buffaloes, antelopes, and in the
+streams there are many varieties of fish. The nitrogenous ingredients
+are abundant, and they have dainties in palm-toddy, and tobacco or
+Bang&eacute;: the soil is so fruitful that <a name="Page_149" id="Page_149" />mere scraping off the weeds is as
+good as ploughing, so that the reason for cannibalism does not lie in
+starvation or in want of animal matter, as was said to be the case with
+the New Zealanders. The only feasible reason I can discover is a
+depraved appetite, giving an extraordinary craving for meat which we
+call &quot;high.&quot; They are said to bury a dead body for a couple of days in
+the soil in a forest, and in that time, owing to the climate, it soon
+becomes putrid enough for the strongest stomachs.</p>
+
+<p>The Lualaba has many oysters in it with very thick shells. They are
+called <i>Makessi</i>, and at certain seasons are dived for by the Bagenya
+women: pearls are said to be found in them, but boring to string them
+has never been thought of. <i>Kanone</i>, Ibis religiosa. <i>Uruko</i>, Kuss name
+of coffee.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyuema are so afraid of guns, that a man borrows one to settle any
+dispute or claim: he goes with it over his shoulder, and quickly
+arranges the matter by the pressure it brings, though they all know that
+he could not use it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gulu</i>, Deity above, or heaven. <i>Mamvu</i>, earth or below. <i>Gulu</i> is a
+person, and men, on death, go to him. <i>Nkoba,</i> lightning. <i>Nkongolo</i>,
+Deity (?). <i>Kula</i> or <i>Nkula</i>, salt spring west of Nyangw&eacute;. <i>Kalunda</i>,
+ditto. <i>Kiria</i>, rapid down river. <i>Kirila</i>, islet in sight of Nyangw&eacute;.
+<i>Magoya</i>, ditto.</p>
+
+<p><i>Note</i>.&mdash;The chief Zurampela is about N.W. of Nyangw&eacute;, and three days
+off. The Luiv&eacute; River, of very red water, is crossed, and the larger
+Mabila River receives it into its very dark water before Mabila enters
+Lualaba.</p>
+
+<p>A ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, as calculi are, is a
+great charm among the Arabs: it scares away other animals, they say.</p>
+
+<p>Lion's fat smeared on the tails of oxen taken through a country
+abounding in tsetse, or bungo, is a sure preventive; when I heard of
+this, I thought that lion's fat would be as difficult of collection as
+gnat's brains or mosquito <a name="Page_150" id="Page_150" />tongues, but I was assured that many lions
+are killed on the Basango highland, and they, in common with all beasts
+there, are extremely fat: so it is not at all difficult to buy a
+calabash of the preventive, and Banyamwezi, desirous of taking cattle to
+the coast for sale, know the substance, and use it successfully (?).</p>
+
+<p><i>11th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Came on by a long march of six hours across plains
+of grass and watercourses, lined with beautiful trees, to Kassessa's,
+the chief of Mamohela, who has helped the Arabs to scourge several of
+his countrymen for old feuds: he gave them goats, and then guided them
+by night to the villages, where they got more goats and many captives,
+each to be redeemed with ten goats more. During the last foray, however,
+the people learned that every shot does not kill, and they came up to
+the party with bows and arrows, and compelled the slaves to throw down
+their guns and powder-horns. They would have shown no mercy had Manyuema
+been thus in slave power; but this is a beginning of the end, which will
+exclude Arab traders from the country. I rested half a day, as I am
+still ill. I do most devoutly thank the Lord for sparing my life three
+times in one day. The Lord is good, a stronghold in the day of trouble,
+and He knows them that trust in Him.</p>
+
+<p>[The brevity of the following notes is fully accounted for: Livingstone
+was evidently suffering too severely to write more.]</p>
+
+<p><i>12th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mamohela camp all burned off. We sleep at Mamohela
+village.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;At a village on the bank of River Lolindi, I am
+suffering greatly. A man brought a young, nearly full-fledged, kite from
+a nest on a tree: this is the first case of their breeding, that I am
+sure of, in this country: they are migratory into these intertropical
+lands from the south, probably.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151" /><i>14th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Across many brisk burns to a village on the side
+of a mountain range. First rains 12th and 14th, gentle; but near Luamo,
+it ran on the paths, and caused dew.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;To Muanambonyo's. Golungo, a bush buck, with
+stripes across body, and two rows of spots along the sides (?)</p>
+
+<p><i>16th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;To Luamo River. Very ill with bowels.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Cross river, and sent a message to my friend.
+Katomba sent a bountiful supply of food back.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Reached Katomba, at Moenemgoi's, and was welcomed
+by all the heavily-laden Arab traders. They carry their trade spoil in
+three relays. Kenyenger&eacute; attacked before I came, and 150 captives were
+taken and about 100 slain; this is an old feud of Moenemgoi, which the
+Arabs took up for their own gain. No news whatever from Ujiji, and M.
+Bogharib is still at Bambarr&eacute;, with all my letters.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th-20th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Rest from weakness. (<i>21st August, 1871.</i>) Up
+to the palms on the west of Mount Kanyima Pass. (<i>22nd August, 1871.</i>)
+Bambarr&eacute;. (<i>28th August, 1871.</i>) Better and thankful. Katomba's party
+has nearly a thousand frasilahs of ivory, and Mohamad's has 300
+frasilahs.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Ill all night, and remain. (<i>30th August, 1871.</i>)
+Ditto, ditto; but go on to Monandenda's on River Lombonda.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st August, 1871.</i>&mdash;Up and half over the mountain range, (<i>1st
+September, 1871</i>) and sleep in dense forest, with several fine running
+streams.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd September, 1871.</i>&mdash;Over the range, and down on to a marble-capped
+hill, with a village on top.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd September, 1871.</i>&mdash;Equinoctial gales. On to Lohombo.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;To Kasangangazi's. (<i>6th September, 1871.</i>)
+Rest. (<i>7th September, 1871.</i>) Mamba's. Rest on 8th. (<i>9th September,
+1871.</i>) Ditto ditto. People falsely accused of stealing; but I disproved
+it to the confusion of the Arabs, who wish to be <a name="Page_152" id="Page_152" />able to say, &quot;the
+people of the English steal too.&quot; A very rough road from Kasangangazi's
+hither, and several running rivulets crossed.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;Manyuema boy followed us, but I insisted on his
+father's consent, which was freely given: marching proved too hard for
+him, however, and in a few days he left.</p>
+
+<p>Down into the valley of the Kapemba through beautiful undulating
+country, and came to village of Amru: this is a common name, and is used
+as &quot;man,&quot; or &quot;comrade,&quot; or &quot;mate.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>11th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;Up a very steep high mountain range, Moloni or
+Mononi, and down to a village at the bottom on the other side, of a man
+called Molembu.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;Two men sick. Wait, though I am now
+comparatively sound and well. Dura flour, which we can now procure,
+helps to strengthen me: it is nearest to wheaten flour; maize meal is
+called &quot;cold,&quot; and not so wholesome as the <i>Holeus sorghum</i> or dura. A
+lengthy march through a level country, with high mountain ranges on each
+hand; along that on the left our first path lay, and it was very
+fatiguing. We came to the Rivulet Kalangai. I had hinted to Mohamad that
+if he harboured my deserters, it might go hard with him; and he came
+after me for two marches, and begged me not to think that he did
+encourage them. They came impudently into the village, and I had to
+drive them out: I suspected that he had sent them. I explained, and he
+gave me a goat, which I sent back for.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;This march back completely used up the Manyuema
+boy: he could not speak, or tell what he wanted cooked, when he arrived.
+I did not see him go back, and felt sorry for the poor boy, who left us
+by night. People here would sell nothing, so I was glad of the goat.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;To Pyanamosind&eacute;'s. <i>(15th September, 1871.)</i> To
+Karungamagao's; very fine undulating green country. <a name="Page_153" id="Page_153" /><i>(16th and 17th
+September, 1871.)</i> Rest, as we could get food to buy.</p>
+
+<p><i>(18th September, 1871.)</i> To a stockaded village, where the people ordered us to leave. We
+complied, and went out half a mile and built our sheds in the forest: I
+like sheds in the forest much better than huts in the villages, for we
+have no mice or vermin, and incur no obligation.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;Found that Barua are destroying all the
+Manyuema villages not stockaded.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th September, 1871.</i>&mdash;We came to Kunda's on the River Katemba,
+through great plantations of cassava, and then to a woman chief's, and
+now regularly built our own huts apart from the villages, near the hot
+fountain called Kabila which is about blood-heat, and flows across the
+path. Crossing this we came to Mokwaniwa's, on the River Gombez&eacute;, and
+met a caravan, under Nassur Masudi, of 200 guns. He presented a fine
+sheep, and reported that Seyed Majid was dead&mdash;he had been ailing and
+fell from some part of his new house at Darsalam, and in three days
+afterwards expired. He was a true and warm friend to me and did all he
+could to aid me with his subjects, giving me two Sultan's letters for
+the purpose. Seyed Burghash succeeds him; this change causes anxiety.
+Will Seyed Burghash's goodness endure now that he has the Sultanate?
+Small-pox raged lately at Ujiji.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd September, 1871.</i>&mdash;Caravan goes northwards, and we rest, and eat
+the sheep kindly presented.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd September, 1871.</i>&mdash;We now passed through the country of mixed
+Barua and Baguha, crossed the River Lo&ntilde;gumba twice and then came near
+the great mountain mass on west of Tanganyika. From Mokwaniwa's to
+Tanganyika is about ten good marches through open forest. The Guha
+people are not very friendly; they know strangers too well to show
+kindness: like Manyuema, they are also keen traders. I was sorely
+knocked up by this march from Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute; back to Ujiji. In the latter part
+of it, I felt as if dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain, the
+appetite failed, <a name="Page_154" id="Page_154" />and a little bit of meat caused violent diarrhoea,
+whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the body. All the traders
+were returning successful: I alone had failed and experienced worry,
+thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of the end towards which I
+strained.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd October, 1871.</i>&mdash;I read the whole Bible through four times whilst I
+was in Manyuema.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th October, 1871.</i>&mdash;The road covered with angular fragments of quartz
+was very sore to my feet, which are crammed into ill-made French shoes.
+How the bare feet of the men and women stood out, I don't know; it was
+hard enough on mine though protected by the shoes. We marched in the
+afternoons where water at this season was scarce. The dust of the march
+caused ophthalmia, like that which afflicted Speke: this was my first
+touch of it in Africa. We now came to the Lobumba River, which flows
+into Tanganyika, and then to the village Loanda and sent to Kasanga, the
+Guha chief, for canoes. The Lo&ntilde;gumba rises, like the Lobumba, in the
+mountains called Kabogo West. We heard great noises, as if thunder, as
+far as twelve days off, which were ascribed to Kabogo, as if it had
+subterranean caves into which the waves rushed with great noise, and it
+may be that the Lo&ntilde;gumba is the outlet of Tanganyika: it becomes the
+Luass&eacute; further down, and then the Luamo before it joins the Lualaba: the
+country slopes that way, but I was too ill to examine its source.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th October, 1871.</i>&mdash;On to islet Kaseng&eacute;. After much delay got a good
+canoe for three dotis, and on <i>15th October, 1871</i> went to the islet
+Kabiziwa.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th October, 1871.</i>&mdash;Start for Kabogo East, and <i>19th</i> reach it 8 A.M.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th October, 1871.</i>&mdash;Rest men.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd October, 1871.</i>&mdash;To Rombola.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd October, 1871.</i>&mdash;At dawn, off and go to Ujiji. Welcomed by all the
+Arabs, particularly by Moenyegher&eacute;. I was <a name="Page_155" id="Page_155" />now reduced to a skeleton,
+but the market being held daily, and all kinds of native food brought to
+it, I hoped that food and rest would soon restore me, but in the evening
+my people came and told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods, and
+Moenyegher&eacute; confirmed it by saying, &quot;We protested, but he did not leave
+a single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a string of beads out of 700
+lbs.&quot; This was distressing. I had made up my mind, if I could not get
+people at Ujiji, to wait till men should come from the coast, but to
+wait in beggary was what I never contemplated, and I now felt miserable.
+Shereef was evidently a moral idiot, for he came without shame to shake
+hands with me, and when I refused, assumed an air of displeasure, as
+having been badly treated; and afterwards came with his &quot;Balghere,&quot;
+good-luck salutation, twice a day, and on leaving said, &quot;I am going to
+pray,&quot; till I told him that were I an Arab, his hand and both ears would
+be cut off for thieving, as he knew, and I wanted no salutations from
+him. In my distress it was annoying to see Shereef's slaves passing from
+the market with all the good things that my goods had bought.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th October, 1871.</i>&mdash;My property had been sold to Shereef's friends at
+merely nominal prices. Syed bin Majid, a good man, proposed that they
+should be returned, and the ivory be taken from Shereef; but they would
+not restore stolen property, though they knew it to be stolen.
+Christians would have acted differently, even those of the lowest
+classes. I felt in my destitution as if I were the man who went down
+from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves; but I could not hope
+for Priest, Levite, or good Samaritan to come by on either side, but one
+morning Syed bin Majid said to me, &quot;Now this is the first time we have
+been alone together; I have no goods, but I have ivory; let me, I pray
+you, sell some ivory, and give the goods to you.&quot; This was encouraging;
+but I said, &quot;Not yet, but by-and-bye.&quot; I had <a name="Page_156" id="Page_156" />still a few barter goods
+left, which I had taken the precaution to deposit with Mohamad bin Saleh
+before going to Manyuema, in case of returning in extreme need. But when
+my spirits were at their lowest ebb, the good Samaritan was close at
+hand, for one morning Susi came running at the top of his speed and
+gasped out, &quot;An Englishman! I see him!&quot; and off he darted to meet him.
+The American flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality of
+the stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge kettles, cooking pots,
+tents, &amp;c, made me think &quot;This must be a luxurious traveller, and not
+one at his wits' end like me.&quot; <i>(28th October, 1871.)</i> It was Henry
+Moreland Stanley, the travelling correspondent of the <i>New York Herald,</i>
+sent by James Gordon Bennett, junior, at an expense of more than
+4000<i>l.</i>, to obtain accurate information about Dr. Livingstone if
+living, and if dead to bring home my bones. The news he had to tell to
+one who had been two full years without any tidings from Europe made my
+whole frame thrill. The terrible fate that had befallen France, the
+telegraphic cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election of
+General Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon&mdash;my constant friend, the
+proof that Her Majesty's Government had not forgotten me in voting
+1000<i>l</i>. for supplies, and many other points of interest, revived
+emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema. Appetite returned, and
+instead of the spare, tasteless, two meals a day, I ate four times
+daily, and in a week began to feel strong. I am not of a demonstrative
+turn; as cold, indeed, as we islanders are usually reputed to be, but
+this disinterested kindness of Mr. Bennett, so nobly carried into effect
+by Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming. I really do feel extremely
+grateful, and at the same time I am a little ashamed at not being more
+worthy of the generosity. Mr. Stanley has done his part with untiring
+energy; good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. His
+helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who, by their <a name="Page_157" id="Page_157" />excesses at
+Zanzibar and elsewhere, had ruined their constitutions, and prepared
+their systems to be fit provender for the grave. They had used up their
+strength by wickedness, and were of next to no service, but rather
+downdrafts and unbearable drags to progress.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;As Tanganyika explorations are said by Mr.
+Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, we go at his
+expense and by his men to the north of the Lake.</p>
+
+<p>[Dr. Livingstone on a previous occasion wrote from the interior of
+Africa to the effect that Lake Tanganyika poured its waters into the
+Albert Nyanza Lake of Baker. At the time perhaps he hardly realized the
+interest that such an announcement was likely to occasion. He was now
+shown the importance of ascertaining by actual observation whether the
+junction really existed, and for this purpose he started with Mr.
+Stanley to explore the region of the supposed connecting link in the
+North, so as to verify the statements of the Arabs.]</p>
+
+<p><i>16th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;Four hours to Chigoma.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th and 21st November, 1871.</i>&mdash;Passed a very crowded population, the
+men calling to us to land to be fleeced and insulted by way of Mahonga
+or Mutuari: they threw stones in rage, and one, apparently slung,
+lighted close to the canoe. We came on until after dark, and landed
+under a cliff to rest and cook, but a crowd came and made inquiries,
+then a few more came as if to investigate more perfectly: they told us
+to sleep, and to-morrow friendship should be made. We put our luggage on
+board and set a watch on the cliff. A number of men came along, cowering
+behind rocks, which then aroused suspicion, and we slipped off quietly;
+they called after us, as men baulked of their prey. We went on five
+hours and slept, and then this morning came on to Magala, <a name="Page_158" id="Page_158" />where the
+people are civil, but Mukamba had war with some one. The Lake narrows to
+about ten miles, as the western mountains come towards the eastern
+range, that being about N.N.W. magnetic. Many stumps of trees killed by
+water show an encroachment by the Lake on the east side. A transverse
+range seems to shut in the north end, but there is open country to the
+east and west of its ends.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;To Point Kizuka in Mukamba's country. A
+Molongwana came to us from Mukamba and asserted most positively that all
+the water of Tanganyika flowed into the River Lusiz&eacute;, and then on to
+Ukerew&eacute; of Mt&eacute;za; nothing could be more clear than his statements.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;We came on about two hours to some villages on a
+high bank where Mukamba is living. The chief, a young good-looking man
+like Mugala, came and welcomed us. Our friend of yesterday now declared
+as positively as before that the water of Lusiz&eacute; flowed into Tanganyika,
+and not the way he said yesterday! I have not the smallest doubt but
+Tanganyika discharges somewhere, though we may be unable to find it.
+Lusiz&eacute; goes to or comes from Luanda and Karagw&eacute;. This is hopeful, but I
+suspend my judgment. War rages between Mukamba and Wasmashanga or
+Uasmasan&eacute;, a chief between this and Lusiz&eacute;: ten men were killed of
+Mukamba's people a few days ago. Vast numbers of fishermen ply their
+calling night and day as far as we can see. Tanganyika closes in except
+at one point N. and by W. of us. The highest point of the western range,
+about 7000 feet above the sea, is Sumburuza. We are to go to-morrow to
+Luhinga, elder brother of Mukamba, near Lusiz&eacute;, and the chief follows us
+next day.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;Sunday. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. I gave
+Mukamba 9 dotis and 9 fundos. The end of Tanganyika seen clearly is
+rounded off about 4' broad from east to west.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159" /><i>27th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley is better. We started at sunset
+westwards, then northwards for seven hours, and at 4 A.M. reached
+Lohinga, at the mouth of the Lusiz&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;Shot an <i>Ibis religiosa.</i> In the afternoon
+Luhinga, the superior of Mukamb&eacute;, came and showed himself very
+intelligent. He named eighteen rivers, four of which enter Tanganyika,
+and the rest Lusiz&eacute;: all come into, none leave Tanganyika.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15" /><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> Lusiz&eacute; is
+said to rise in Kwangereg&eacute;r&eacute; in the Kivo lagoon, between Mutumb&eacute; and
+Luanda. Nyabungu is chief of Mutumb&eacute;. Luhinga is the most intelligent
+and the frankest chief we have seen here.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;We go to see the Lusiz&eacute; Eiver in a canoe. The
+mouth is filled with large reedy sedgy islets: there are three branches,
+about twelve to fifteen yards broad, and one fathom deep, with a strong
+current of 2' per hour: water discoloured. The outlet of the Lake is
+probably by the Lo&ntilde;gumba River into Lualaba as the Luamo, but this as
+yet must be set down as a &quot;theoretical discovery.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>30th November, 1871.</i>&mdash;A large present of eggs, flour, and a sheep came
+from Mukamba. Mr. Stanley went round to a bay in the west, to which the
+mountains come sheer down.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st December, 1871, Friday.</i>&mdash;Latitude last night 3&deg; 18' 3&quot; S. I gave
+fifteen cloths to Lohinga, which pleased him highly. Kuansibura is the
+chief who lives near Kivo, the lagoon from which the Lusiz&eacute; rises: they
+say it flows under a rock.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Ill from bilious attack.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Better and thankful. Men went off to bring
+Mukamba, whose wife brought us a handsome present of milk, beer, and
+cassava. She is a good-looking young woman, of light colour and full
+lips, with two children of eight or ten years of age. We gave them
+cloths, and she<a name="Page_160" id="Page_160" />asked beads, so we made them a present of two fundos. By
+lunars I was one day wrong to-day.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Very heavy rain from north all night. Baker's
+Lake cannot be as near as he puts it in his map, for it is unknown to
+Lohing&eacute;. He thinks that he is a hundred years old, but he is really
+about forty-five! Namataranga is the name of birds which float high in
+air in large flocks.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;We go over to a point on our east. The bay is
+about 12' broad: the mountains here are very beautiful. We visited the
+chief Mukamba, at his village five miles north of Lohinga's; he wanted
+us to remain a few days, but I declined. We saw two flocks of <i>Ibis
+religiosa,</i> numbering in all fifty birds, feeding like geese.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Remain at Luhinga's.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Start and go S.W. to Lohanga: passed the point
+where Speke turned, then breakfasted at the marketplace.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Go on to Mukamba; near the boundary of Babemb&eacute;
+and Bavira. We pulled six hours to a rocky islet, with two rocks covered
+with trees on its western side. The Babemb&eacute; are said to be dangerous, on
+account of having been slaughtered by the Malongwana. The Lat. of these
+islands is 3&deg; 41' S.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Leave New York Herald Islet and go S. to Lubumba
+Cape. The people now are the Basansas along the coast. Some men here
+were drunk and troublesome: we gave them a present and left them about 4
+1/2 in afternoon and went to an islet at the north end in about three
+hours, good pulling, and afterwards in eight hours to the eastern shore;
+this makes the Lake, say, 28 or 30 miles broad. We coasted along to
+Mokungos and rested.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Kisessa is chief of all the islet Mozima. His
+son was maltreated at Ujiji and died in consequence; this stopped the
+dura trade, and we were not assaulted because not Malongwana.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161" /><i>11th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Leave Mokungo at 6 A.M. and coast along 6 1/2
+hours to Sazzi.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley ill with fever. Off, and after three
+hours, stop at Masambo village.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley better. Go on to Ujiji. Mr. Stanley
+received a letter from Consul Webb (American) of 11th June last, and
+telegrams from Aden up to 29th April.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Many people off to fight Mirambo at Unyanyemb&eacute;:
+their wives promenade and weave green leaves for victory.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;At Ujiji. Getting ready to march east for my
+goods.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Engage paddlers to Tongw&eacute; and a guide.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;S. <i>18th.</i>&mdash;Writing. <i>19th-20th.</i>&mdash;Still
+writing despatches. Packed up the large tin box with Manyuema swords and
+spear heads, for transmission home by Mr. Stanley. Two chronometers and two
+watches&mdash;anklets of Nzig&eacute; and of Manyuema. Leave with Mohamad bin Saleh
+a box with books, shirts, paper, &amp;c.; also large and small beads, tea,
+coffee and sugar.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Heavy rains for planting now.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Stanley ill of fever.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Do. very ill. Rainy and uncomfortable.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;S. <i>25th.&mdash;Christmas</i>. I leave here one bag of
+beads in a skin, 2 bags of Sungo mazi 746 and 756 blue. Gardner's bag of
+beads, soap 2 bars in 3 boxes (wood). 1st, tea and matunda; 2nd, wooden
+box, paper and shirts; 3rd, iron box, shoes, quinine, 1 bag of coffee,
+sextant stand, one long wooden box empty. These are left with Mohamad
+bin Saleh at Ujiji, Christmas Day, 1871. Two bags of beads are already
+here and table cloths.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Had but a sorry Christmas yesterday.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th December, 1871.&mdash;Mem</i>. To send Moenyegher&eacute; some coffee and tell
+his wishes to Masudi.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162" /><i>27th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Left Ujiji 9 A.M., and crossed goats, donkeys,
+and men over Luich&eacute;. Sleep at the Malagarasi.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Crossed over the broad bay of the Malagarasi to
+Kagonga and sleep.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Pass Viga Point, red sandstone, and cross the
+bay of the River Lugufu and Nkala village, and transport the people and
+goats: sleep.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st December, 1871.</i>&mdash;Send for beans, as there are no provisions in
+front of this. Brown water of the Lugufu bent away north: the high wind
+is S.W. and W. Having provisions we went round Munkalu Point. The water
+is slightly discoloured for a mile south of it, but brown water is seen
+on the north side of bay bent north by a current.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st January, 1872.</i>&mdash;May the Almighty help me to finish my work this
+year for Christ's sake! We slept in Mosehezi Bay. I was storm-stayed in
+Kifw&eacute; Bay, which is very beautiful&mdash;still as a millpond. We found 12 or
+13 hippopotami near a high bank, but did not kill any, for our balls are
+not hardened. It is high rocky tree-covered shore, with rocks bent and
+twisted wonderfully; large slices are worn off the land with hillsides
+clad with robes of living green, yet very, very steep.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd January, 1872.</i>&mdash;A very broad Belt of large tussocks of reeds lines
+the shore near Mount Kibanga or Boumba. We had to coast along to the
+south. Saw a village nearly afloat, the people having there taken refuge
+from their enemies. There are many hippopotami and crocodiles in
+Tanganyika. A river 30 yards wide, the Kibanga, flows in strongly. We
+encamped on an open space on a knoll and put up flags to guide our land
+party to us.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd January, 1872.</i>&mdash;We send off to buy food. Mr. Stanley shot a fat
+zebra, its meat was very good.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;The Ujijians left last night with their canoes. I
+gave them 14 fundos of beads to buy food on the way. We are now waiting
+for our land party. I gave <a name="Page_163" id="Page_163" />headmen here at Burimba 2 dotis and a
+Kitamba. Men arrived yesterday or 4 1/2 days from the Lugufu.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley is ill of fever. I am engaged in
+copying notes into my journal. All men and goats arrived safely.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley better, and we prepare to go.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley shot a buffalo at the end of our first
+march up. East and across the hills. The River Luajer&eacute; is in front. We
+spend the night at the carcase of the buffalo.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;We crossed the river, which is 30 yards wide and
+rapid. It is now knee and waist deep. The country is rich and beautiful,
+hilly and tree-covered, reddish soil, and game abundant.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rainy, but we went on E. and N.N.E. through a
+shut-in valley to an opening full of all kinds of game. Buffalo cows
+have calves now: one was wounded. Rain came down abundantly.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Across a very lovely green country of open forest
+all fresh, and like an English gentleman's park. Game plentiful.
+Tree-covered mountains right and left, and much brown h&aelig;matite on the
+levels. Course E. A range of mountains appears about three miles off on
+our right.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Off through open forest for three hours east,
+then cook, and go on east another three hours, over very rough rocky,
+hilly country. River Mtambahu.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Off early, and pouring rain came down; as we
+advance the country is undulating. We cross a rivulet 15 yards wide
+going north, and at another of 3 yards came to a halt; all wet and
+uncomfortable.</p>
+
+<p>The people pick up many mushrooms and manendinga roots, like turnips.
+There are buffaloes near us in great numbers.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Fine morning. Went through an undulating hilly
+country clothed with upland trees for three <a name="Page_164" id="Page_164" />hours, then breakfast in an
+open glade, with bottom of rocks of brown h&aelig;matite, and a hole with
+rain-water in it. We are over 1000 feet higher than Tanganyika. It
+became cloudy, and we finished our march in a pouring rain, at a rivulet
+thickly clad with aquatic trees on banks. Course E.S.E.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Another fine morning, but miserably wet
+afternoon. We went almost 4' E.S.E., and crossed a strong rivulet 8 or
+10 yards wide: then on and up to a ridge and along the top of it, going
+about south. We had breakfast on the edge of the plateau, looking down
+into a broad lovely valley. We now descended, and saw many reddish
+monkeys, which made a loud outcry: there was much game, but scattered,
+and we got none. Miserably wet crossing another stream, then up a valley
+to see a deserted Boma or fenced village.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Along a valley with high mountains on each hand,
+then up over that range on our left or south. At the top some lions
+roared. We then went on on high land, and saw many hartebeests and
+zebra, but did not get one, though a buffalo was knocked over. We
+crossed a rivulet, and away over beautiful and undulating hills and
+vales, covered with many trees and jambros fruit. Sleep at a running
+rill.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;A very cold night after long-continued and heavy
+rain. Our camp was among brakens. Went E. and by S. along the high land,
+then we saw a village down in a deep valley into which we descended.
+Then up another ridge in a valley and along to a village well
+cultivated&mdash;up again 700 feet at least, and down to Mer&eacute;ra's village,
+hid in a mountainous nook, about 140 huts with doors on one side. The
+valleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the people being eagerly
+engaged in weeding and hoeing to take advantage of the abundant rains
+which have drenched us every afternoon.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165" /><i>17th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;We remain at Mer&eacute;ra's to buy food for our men
+and ourselves.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;March, but the Mirongosi wandered and led us
+round about instead of S.S.E. We came near some tree-covered hills, and
+a river Monya Mazi&mdash;Mtamba River in front. I have very sore feet from
+bad shoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Went about S.E. for four hours, and crossed the
+Mbamba River and passed through open forest. There is a large rock in
+the river, and hills thickly tree-covered, 2' East and West, down a
+steep descent and camp. Came down River Mpokwa over rough country with
+sore feet, to ruins of a village Basivira and sleep. <i>21st.</i>&mdash;Rest.
+<i>22nd.</i>&mdash;Rest. Mr. Stanley shot two zebras yesterday, and a she giraffe
+to-day, the meat of the giraffe was 1000 lbs. weight, the two zebras
+about 800 lbs.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rest. Mr. Stanley has fever. <i>24th.</i>&mdash;Ditto.
+<i>25th</i>.&mdash;Stanley ill. <i>26th</i>.&mdash;Stanley better and off.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Through low hills N.E. and among bamboos to open
+forest&mdash;on in undulating bushy tract to a river with two rounded hills
+east, one having three mushroom-shaped trees on it.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;On across long land waves and the only bamboos
+east of Mpokwa Rill to breakfast. In going on a swarm of bees attacked a
+donkey Mr. Stanley bought for me, and instead of galloping off, as did
+the other, the fool of a beast rolled down, and over and over. I did the
+same, then ran, dashed into a bush like an ostrich pursued, then ran
+whisking a bush round my head. They gave me a sore head and face, before
+I got rid of the angry insects: I never saw men attacked before: the
+donkey was completely knocked up by the stings on head, face, and lips,
+and died in two days, in consequence. We slept in the stockade of
+Misonghi.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;We crossed the river and then away E. to near a
+hill. Crossed two rivers, broad and marshy, and <a name="Page_166" id="Page_166" />deep with elephants
+plunging. Rain almost daily, but less in amount now. Bombay says his
+greatest desire is to visit Speke's grave ere he dies: he has a square
+head with the top depressed in the centre.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;We ascended a ridge, the edge of a flat basin
+with ledges of dark brown sandstone, the brim of ponds in which were
+deposited great masses of brown h&aelig;matite, disintegrated into gravel,
+flat open forest with short grass. We crossed a rill of light-coloured
+water three times and reached a village. After this in 1-1/2 hour we
+came to Mer&eacute;ra's.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th January, 1872.</i>&mdash;At Mer&eacute;ra's, the second of the name. Much rain
+and very heavy; food abundant. Baniayamwezi and Yukonongo people here.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st January, 1872.</i>&mdash;Through scraggy bush, then open forest with short
+grass, over a broad rill and on good path to village Mwaro; chief
+Kamirambo.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st February, 1872.</i>&mdash;We met a caravan of Syde bin Habib's people
+yesterday who reported that Mirambo has offered to repay all the goods
+he has robbed the Arabs of, all the ivory, powder, blood, &amp;c., but his
+offer was rejected. The country all around is devastated, and Arab force
+is at Simba's. Mr. Stanley's man Shaw is dead. There is very great
+mortality by small-pox amongst the Arabs and at the coast. We went over
+flat upland forest, open and bushy, then down a deep descent and along
+N.E. to a large tree at a deserted stockade.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Away over ridges of cultivation and elephant's
+footsteps. Cultivators all swept away by Basavira. Very many elephants
+feed here. We lost our trail and sent men to seek it, then came to the
+camp in the forest. Lunched at rill running into Ngomb&eacute; Nullah.</p>
+
+<p>Ukamba is the name of the Tsetse fly here.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley has severe fever, with great pains in
+the back and loins: an emetic helped him a <a name="Page_167" id="Page_167" />little, but resin of jalap
+would have cured him quickly. Rainy all day.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley so ill that we carried him in a cot
+across flat forest and land covered with short grass for three hours,
+about north-east, and at last found a path, which was a great help. As
+soon as the men got under cover continued rains began. There is a camp
+of Malongwana here.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Off at 6 A.M. Mr. Stanley a little better, but
+still carried across same level forest; we pass water in pools, and one
+in h&aelig;matite. Saw a black rhinoceros, and come near people.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Drizzly morning, but we went on, and in two hours
+got drenched with cold N.W. rain: the paths full of water we splashed
+along to our camp in a wood. Met a party of native traders going to
+Mwara.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Along level plains, and clumps of forest, and
+hollows filled at present with water, about N.E., to a large pool of
+Ngomb&eacute; Nullah. Send off two men to Unyanyemb&eacute; for letters and medicine.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Removed from the large pool of the nullah, about
+an hour north, to where game abounds. Saw giraffes and zebras on our
+way. The nullah is covered with lotus-plants, and swarms with
+crocodiles.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Remained for game, but we were unsuccessful. An
+eland was shot by Mr. Stanley, but it was lost. Departed at 2 P.M., and
+reached Manyara, a kind old chief. The country is flat, and covered with
+detached masses of forest, with open glades and flats.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Leave Manyara and pass along the same park-like
+country, with but little water. The rain sinks into the sandy soil at
+once, and the collection is seldom seen. After a hard tramp we came to a
+pool by a sycamore-tree, 28 feet 9 inches in circumference, with broad
+fruit-laden branches. Ziwan&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168" /><i>11th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rain nearly all night. Scarcely a day has
+passed without rain and thunder since we left Tanganyika Across a flat
+forest again, meeting a caravan for Ujiji. The grass is three feet high,
+and in seed. Reach Chikuru, a stockaded village, with dura plantations
+around it and pools of rain-water.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Leave Chikuru, and wade across an open flat with
+much standing-water. They plant rice on the wet land round the villages.
+Our path lies through an open forest, where many trees are killed for
+the sake of the bark, which is used as cloth, and for roofing and beds.
+Mr. Stanley has severe fever.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Across the same flat open forest, with scraggy
+trees and grass three feet long in tufts. Came to a Boma. N.E. Gunda.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Over the same kind of country, where the water
+was stagnant, to camp in the forest.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Camp near Kigando, in a rolling country with
+granite knolls.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Over a country, chiefly level, with stagnant
+water; rounded hills were seen. Cross a rain torrent and encamp in a new
+Boma, Magonda.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Go through low tree-covered hills of granite,
+with blocks of rock sticking out: much land cultivated, and many
+villages. The country now opens out and we come to the Temb&eacute;,<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16" /><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> in the
+midst of many straggling villages. Unyanyemb&eacute;. Thanks to the Almighty.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14" /><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> The reader will best judge of the success of the
+experiment by looking at a specimen of the writing. An old sheet of the
+<i>Standard</i> newspaper, made into rough copy-books, sufficed for paper in
+the absence of all other material, and by writing across the print no
+doubt the notes were tolerably legible at the time. The colour of the
+decoction used instead of ink has faded so much that if Dr.
+Livingstone's handwriting had not at all times been beautifully clear
+and distinct it would have been impossible to decipher this part of his
+diary.&mdash;Ed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15" /><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Thus the question of the Lusiz&eacute; was settled at once: the
+previous notion of its outflow to the north proved a myth.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16" /><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Temb&eacute;, a flat-roofed Arab house.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII" /><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169" />CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyanyemb&eacute;. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir S. Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>By the arrival of the fast Ramad&acirc;n on the 14th November, and a Nautical
+Almanac, I discovered that I was on that date twenty-one days too fast
+in my reckoning. Mr. Stanley used some very strong arguments in favour
+of my going home, recruiting my strength, getting artificial teeth, and
+then returning to finish my task; but my judgment said, &quot;All your
+friends will wish you to make a complete work of the exploration of the
+sources of the Nile before you retire.&quot; My daughter Agnes says, &quot;Much as
+I wish you to come home, I would rather that you finished your work to
+your own satisfaction than return merely to gratify me.&quot; Rightly and
+nobly said, my darling Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty loudly, &quot;She is a
+chip of the old block.&quot; My blessing on her and all the rest.</p>
+
+<p>It is all but certain that four full-grown gushing fountains rise on the
+watershed eight days south of Katanga, each of which at no great
+distance off becomes a large river; and two rivers thus formed flow
+north to Egypt, the other two to Inner Ethiopia; that is, Lufira or
+Bartle Frere's <a name="Page_170" id="Page_170" />River, flows into Kamolondo, and that into Webb's
+Lualaba, the main line of drainage. Another, on the north side of the
+sources, Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba, flows through Lake Lincoln,
+otherwise named Chibungo and Lomam&eacute;, and that too into Webb's Lualaba.
+Then Liambai Fountain, Palmerston's, forms the Upper Zambesi; and the
+Lunga (Lunga), Oswell's Fountain, is the Kafu&eacute;; both flowing into Inner
+Ethiopia. It may be that these are not the fountains of the Nile
+mentioned to Herodotus by the secretary of Minerva, in Sais, in Egypt;
+but they are worth discovery, as in the last hundred of the seven
+hundred miles of the watershed, from which nearly all the Nile springs
+do unquestionably arise.</p>
+
+<p>I propose to go from Unyanyemb&eacute; to Fipa; then round the south end of
+Tanganyika, Tambet&eacute;, or Mbet&eacute;; then across the Chambez&eacute;, and round south
+of Lake Bangweolo, and due west to the ancient fountains; leaving the
+underground excavations till after visiting Katanga. This route will
+serve to certify that no other sources of the Nile can come from the
+south without being seen by me. No one will cut me out after this
+exploration is accomplished; and may the good Lord of all help me to
+show myself one of His stout-hearted servants, an honour to my children,
+and, perhaps, to my country and race.</p>
+
+<p>Our march extended from 26th December, 1871, till 18th February, 1872,
+or fifty-four days. This was over 300 miles, and thankful I am to reach
+Unyanyemb&eacute;, and the Temb&eacute; Kwikuru.</p>
+
+<p>I find, also, that the two headmen selected by the notorious, but covert
+slave-trader, Ludha Damji, have been plundering my stores from the 20th
+October, 1870, to 18th February, 1872, or nearly sixteen months. One has
+died of small-pox, and the other not only plundered my stores, but has
+broken open the lock of Mr. Stanley's storeroom, and plundered his
+goods. He declared that all my goods were <a name="Page_171" id="Page_171" />safe, but when the list was
+referred to, and the goods counted, and he was questioned as to the
+serious loss, he at last remembered a bale of seven pieces of merikano,
+and three kanik&eacute;&mdash;or 304 yards, that he evidently had hidden. On
+questioning him about the boxes brought, he was equally ignorant, but at
+last said, &quot;Oh! I remember a box of brandy where it went, and every one
+knows as well as I.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>18th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;This, and Mr. Stanley's goods being found in his
+possession, make me resolve to have done with him. My losses by the
+robberies of the Banian employed slaves are more than made up by Mr.
+Stanley, who has given me twelve bales of calico; nine loads = fourteen
+and a half bags of beads; thirty-eight coils of brass wire; a tent;
+boat; bath; cooking pots; twelve copper sheets; air beds; trowsers;
+jackets, &amp;c. Indeed, I am again quite set up, and as soon as he can send
+men, not slaves, from the coast I go to my work, with a fair prospect of
+finishing it.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rest. Receive 38 coils of brass wire from Mr.
+Stanley, 14-1/2 bags of beads, 12 copper sheets, a strong canvas tent,
+boat-trowsers, nine loads of calico, a bath, cooking pots, a medicine
+chest, a good lot of tools, tacks, screw nails, copper nails, books,
+medicines, paper, tar, many cartridges, and some shot.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;To my great joy I got four flannel shirt from
+Agnes, and I was delighted to find that two pairs of fine English boots
+had most considerately been sent by my friend Mr. Waller. Mr. Stanley
+and I measured the calico and found that 733-3/4 yards were wanting,
+also two frasilahs of samsam, and one case of brandy. Othman pretended
+sickness, and blamed the dead men, but produced a bale of calico hidden
+in Thani's goods; this reduced the missing quantity to 436-1/2 yards.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Heavy rains. I am glad we are in shelter. Masudi
+is an Arab, near to Ali bin Salem at Bagamoio. Bushir is an Arab, for
+whose slave he took a <a name="Page_172" id="Page_172" />bale of calico. Masudi took this Chirongozi, who
+is not a slave, as a pagazi or porter. Robbed by Bushir at the 5th camp
+from Bagamoio. Othman confessed that he knew of the sale of the box of
+brandy, and brought also a shawl which he had forgotten: I searched him,
+and found Mr. Stanley's stores which he had stolen.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Service this morning, and thanked God for safety
+thus far. Got a packet of letters from an Arab.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Send to Governor for a box which he has kept for
+four years: it is all eaten by white ants: two fine guns and a pistol
+are quite destroyed, all the wood-work being eaten. The brandy bottles
+were broken to make it appear as if by an accident, but the corks being
+driven in, and corks of maize cobs used in their place, show that a
+thief has drunk the brandy and then broken the bottles. The tea was
+spoiled, but the china was safe, and the cheese good.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Writing a despatch to Lord Granville against
+Banian slaving, and in favour of an English native settlement transfer.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;A number of Batusi women came to-day asking for
+presents. They are tall and graceful in form, with well-shaped small
+heads, noses, and mouths. They are the chief owners of cattle here. The
+war with Mirambo is still going on. The Governor is ashamed to visit me.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Writing journal and despatch.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Moene-mokaia is ill of heart disease and liver
+abscess. I sent him some blistering fluid. To-day we hold a Christmas
+feast.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th February, 1872.</i>&mdash;Writing journal. Syde bin Salem called; he is a
+China-looking man, and tried to be civil to us.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;My friend Moene-mokaia came yesterday; he is very
+ill of abscess in liver, which has burst internally. I gave him some
+calomel and jalap to open his <a name="Page_173" id="Page_173" />bowels. He is very weak; his legs are
+swollen, but body emaciated.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Repairing tent, and receiving sundry stores,
+Moenem-okaia died.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Received a machine for filling cartridges.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th and 9th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Writing.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Writing. Gave Mr. Stanley a cheque for 5000 rupees
+on Stewart and Co., Bombay. This 500<i>l.</i> is to be drawn if Dr. Kirk has
+expended the rest of the 1000<i>l.</i> If not, then the cheque is to be
+destroyed by Mr. Stanley.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Writing.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Finished my letter to Mr. Bennett of the <i>New York
+Herald</i>, and Despatch No. 3 to Lord Granville.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to his care my journal
+sealed with five seals: the impressions on them are those of an American
+gold coin, anna, and half anna, and cake of paint with royal arms.
+Positively not to be opened.</p>
+
+
+<p>[We must leave each heart to know its own bitterness, as the old
+explorer retraces his steps to the Temb&eacute; at Kwihara, there to hope and
+pray that good fortune may attend his companion of the last few months
+on his journey to the coast; whilst Stanley, duly impressed with the
+importance of that which he can reveal to the outer world, and laden
+with a responsibility which by this time can be fully comprehended,
+thrusts on through every difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing for it now but to give Mr. Stanley time to get to
+Zanzibar, and to shorten by any means at hand the anxious period which
+must elapse before evidence can arrive that he has carried out the
+commission entrusted to him.</p>
+
+<p>As we shall see, Livingstone was not without some material to afford him
+occupation. Distances were calculated from native report; preparations
+were pushed on for <a name="Page_174" id="Page_174" />the coming journey to Lake Bangweolo; apparatus was
+set in order. Travellers from all quarters dropped in from time to time:
+each contributed something about his own land; whilst waifs and strays
+of news from the expedition sent by the Arabs against Mirambo kept the
+settlement alive. To return to his Diary.</p>
+
+<p>How much seems to lie in their separating, when we remember that with
+the last shake of the hand, and the last adieu, came the final parting
+between Livingstone and all that could represent the interest felt by
+the world in his travels, or the sympathy of the white man!]</p>
+
+<p><i>15th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Writing to send after Mr. Stanley by two of his
+men, who wait here for the purpose. Copied line of route, observations
+from Kabuir&eacute; to Casembe's, the second visit, and on to Lake Bangweolo;
+then the experiment of weight on watch-key at Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute; and Lusiz&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, and two of mine to
+bring his last words, if any.</p>
+
+<p>[Sunday was kept in the quiet of the Temb&eacute;, on the 17th March. Two days
+after, and his birthday again comes round&mdash;that day which seems always
+to have carried with it such a special solemnity. He has yet time to
+look back on his marvellous deliverances, and the venture he is about to
+launch forth upon.]</p>
+
+<p><i>19th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Birthday. My Jesus, my king, my life, my all; I
+again dedicate my whole self to Thee. Accept me, and grant, Gracious
+Father, that ere this year is gone I may finish my task. In Jesus' name
+I ask it. Amen, so let it be.</p>
+
+<p>DAVID LIVINGSTONE.</p>
+
+<p>[Many of his astronomical observations were copied out at this time, and
+minute records taken of the rainfall. Books saved up against a rainy day
+were read in the middle of the &quot;Masika&quot; and its heavy showers.]</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175" /><i>21st March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Read Baker's book.
+It is artistic and clever. He does good service in exploring the Nile slave-trade;
+I hope he may be successful in suppressing it.</p>
+
+<p>The Batusi are the cattle herds of all this Unyanyemb&eacute; region. They are
+very polite in address. The women have small compact, well-shaped heads
+and pretty faces; colour, brown; very pleasant to speak to; well-shaped
+figures, with small hands and feet; the last with high insteps, and
+springy altogether. Plants and grass are collected every day, and a fire
+with much smoke made to fumigate the cattle and keep off flies: the
+cattle like it, and the valleys are filled with smoke in the evening in
+consequence. The Baganda are slaves in comparison; black, with a tinge
+of copper-colour sometimes; bridgeless noses, large nostrils and lips,
+but well-made limbs and feet.</p>
+
+<p>[We see that the thread by which he still draws back a lingering word or
+two from Stanley has not parted yet.]</p>
+
+<p><i>25th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Susi brought a letter back from Mr. Stanley. He had
+a little fever, but I hope he will go on safely.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rain of Masika chiefly by night. The Masika of 1871
+began on 23rd of March, and ended 30th of April.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Reading. Very heavy rains.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Moenyembegu asked for the loan of a &quot;doti.&quot; He is
+starving, and so is the war-party at M'Futu; chaining their slaves
+together to keep them from running away to get food anywhere.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th, 30th, 31st March, 1872.</i>&mdash;Very rainy weather. Am reading 'Mungo
+Park's Travels;' they look so truthful.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Read Young's 'Search after Livingstone;' thankful
+for many kind words about me. He writes like a gentleman.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Making a sounding-line out of lint left by <a name="Page_176" id="Page_176" />Mr.
+Stanley. Whydah birds are now building their nests. The cock-bird brings
+fine grass seed-stalks off the top of my Temb&eacute;. He takes the end inside
+the nest and pulls it all in, save the ear. The hen keeps inside,
+constantly arranging the grass with all her might, sometimes making the
+whole nest move by her efforts. Feathers are laid in after the grass.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;We hear that Dugumb&eacute;'s men have come to Ujiji with
+fifty tusks. He went down Lualaba with three canoes a long way and
+bought much ivory. They were not molested by Monangungo as we were.</p>
+
+<p>My men whom I had sent to look for a book left by accident in a hut some
+days' journey off came back stopped by a flood in their track. Copying
+observations for Sir T. Maclear.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;An Arab called Seyed bin Mohamad Magibb&eacute; called. He
+proposes to go west to the country west of Katanga (Urang&eacute;).</p>
+
+<p>[It is very interesting to find that the results of the visit paid by
+Speke and Grant to Mt&eacute;za, King of Uganda, have already become well
+marked. As we see, Livingstone was at Unyanyemb&eacute; when a large trading
+party dropped in on their way back to the king, who, it will be
+remembered, lives on the north-western shores of the Victoria Nyassa.]</p>
+
+<p><i>9th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;About 150 Waganga of Mt&eacute;za carried a present to
+Seyed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, consisting of ivory and a young
+elephant.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17" /><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> He spent all the ivory in buying return presents of
+gunpowder, guns, soap, brandy, gin, &amp;c., and they have stowed it all in
+this Temb&eacute;. <a name="Page_177" id="Page_177" />This morning they have taken everything out to see if
+anything is spoilt. They have hundreds of packages.</p>
+
+<p>One of the Baganda told me yesterday that the name of the Deity is
+Dubal&eacute; in his tongue.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Hung up the sounding-line on poles 1 fathom apart
+and tarred it. 375 fathoms of 5 strands.</p>
+
+<p>Ptolemy's geography of Central Africa seems to say that the science was
+then (second century A.D.) in a state of decadence from what was known
+to the ancient Egyptian priests as revealed to Herodotus 600 years
+before his day (or say B.C. 440). They seem to have been well aware by
+the accounts of travellers or traders that a great number of springs
+contributed to the origin of the Nile, but none could be pointed at
+distinctly as the &quot;Fountains,&quot; except those I long to discover, or
+rather rediscover. Ptolemy seems to have gathered up the threads of
+ancient explorations, and made many springs (six) flow into two Lakes
+situated East and West of each other&mdash;the space above them being
+unknown. If the Victoria Lake were large, then it and the Albert would
+probably be the Lakes which Ptolemy meant, and it would be pleasant to
+call them Ptolemy's sources, rediscovered by the toil and enterprise of
+our countrymen Speke, Grant, and Baker&mdash;but unfortunately Ptolemy has
+inserted the small Lake &quot;Coloe,&quot; nearly where the Victoria Lake stands,
+and one cannot say where his two Lakes are. Of Lakes Victoria,
+Bangweolo, Moero, Kamolondo&mdash;Lake Lincoln and Lake Albert, which two did
+he mean? The science in his time was in a state of decadence. Were two
+Lakes not the relics of a greater number previously known? What says the
+most ancient map known of Sethos II.'s time?</p>
+
+<p><i>16th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Went over to visit Sultan bin Ali near
+Tabora&mdash;country open, plains sloping very gently down from low rounded
+granite hills covered with trees. Rounded masses of the light grey
+granite crop out all over them, but many are hidden by the trees: Tabora
+slopes down from <a name="Page_178" id="Page_178" />some of the same hills that overlook Kwihara, where I
+live. At the bottom of the slope swampy land lies, and during the Masika
+it is flooded and runs westwards. The sloping plain on the North of the
+central drain is called Kaz&eacute;&mdash;that on the South is Tabora, and
+this is often applied to the whole space between the hills north and
+south. Sultan bin Ali is very hospitable. He is of the Bedawee Arabs,
+and a famous marksman with his long Arab gun or matchlock. He often
+killed hares with it, always hitting them in the head. He is about
+sixty-five years of age, black eyed, six feet high and inclined to
+stoutness, and his long beard is nearly all grey. He provided two
+bountiful meals for self and attendants.</p>
+
+<p>Called on Mohamad bin Nassur&mdash;recovering from sickness. He presented a
+goat and a large quantity of guavas. He gave the news that came from
+Dugumb&eacute;'s underling Nser&eacute;r&eacute;, and men now at Ujiji; they went S.W. to
+country called Nomb&eacute;, it is near Rua, and where copper is smelted. After
+I left them on account of the massacre at Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute;, they bought much
+ivory, but acting in the usual Arab way, plundering and killing, they
+aroused the Bakuss' ire, and as they are very numerous, about 200 were
+killed, and none of Dugumb&eacute;'s party. They brought fifty tusks to Ujiji.
+We dare not pronounce positively on any event in life, but this looks
+like prompt retribution on the perpetrators of the horrible and
+senseless massacre of Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute;. It was not vengeance by the relations of
+the murdered ones we saw shot and sunk in the Lualaba, for there is no
+communication between the people of Nya&ntilde;gw&eacute; and the Bakuss or people of
+Nomb&eacute; of Lomam&eacute;&mdash;that massacre turned my heart completely against
+Dugumb&eacute;'s people. To go with them to Lomam&eacute; as my slaves were willing to
+do, was so repugnant I preferred to return that weary 400 or 600 miles
+to Ujiji. I mourned over my being baffled and thwarted all the way, but
+tried to believe that it was all for the best&mdash;this news <a name="Page_179" id="Page_179" />shows that had
+I gone with these people to Lomam&eacute;, I could not have escaped the Bakuss
+spears, for I could not have run like the routed fugitives. I was
+prevented from going in order to save me from death. Many escapes from
+danger I am aware of: some make me shudder, as I think how near to
+death's door I came. But how many more instances of Providential
+protecting there may be of which I know nothing! But I thank most
+sincerely the good Lord of all for His goodness to me.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;I pray the good Lord of all to favour me so as to
+allow me to discover the ancient fountains of Herodotus, and if there is
+anything in the underground excavations to confirm the precious old
+documents (&#964;&#7937; &#946;&#953;&#946;&#955;&#7985;&#945;), the Scriptures of truth, may He permit me to
+bring it to light, and give me wisdom to make a proper use of it.</p>
+
+<p>Some seem to feel that their own importance in the community is enhanced
+by an imaginary connection with a discovery or discoverer of the Nile
+sources, and are only too happy to figure, if only in a minor part, as
+theoretical discoverers&mdash;a theoretical discovery being a contradiction
+in terms.</p>
+
+<p>The cross has been used&mdash;not as a Christian emblem certainly, but from
+time immemorial as the form in which the copper ingot of Kata&ntilde;ga is
+moulded&mdash;this is met with quite commonly, and is called Handipl&eacute;
+Mahandi. Our capital letter I (called Vigera) is the large form of the
+bars of copper, each about 60 or 70 lbs. weight, seen all over Central
+Africa and from Kata&ntilde;ga.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;A roll of letters and newspapers, apparently, came
+to-day for Mr. Stanley. The messenger says he passed Mr. Stanley on the
+way, who said, &quot;Take this to the Doctor;&quot; this is erroneous. The Prince
+of Wales is reported to be dying of typhoid fever: the Princess Louise
+has hastened to his bedside.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180" /><i>20th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Opened it on 20th, and found nine 'New York
+Heralds' of December 1-9, 1871, and one letter for Mr. Stanley, which. I
+shall forward, and one stick of tobacco.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Tarred the tent presented by Mr. Stanley.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Visited Kwikuru, and saw the chief of all the
+Banyamwezi (around whose Boma it is), about sixty years old, and
+partially paralytic. He told me that he had gone as far as Kata&ntilde;ga by
+the same Fipa route I now propose to take, when a little boy following
+his father, who was a great trader.</p>
+
+<p>The name Banyamwezi arose from an ivory ornament of the shape of the new
+moon hung to the neck, with a horn reaching round over either shoulder.
+They believe that they came from the sea-coast, Mombas (?) of old, and
+when people inquired for them they said, &quot;We mean the men of the moon
+ornament.&quot; It is very popular even now, and a large amount of ivory is
+cut down in its manufacture; some are made of the curved tusks of
+hippopotami. The Banyamwezi have turned out good porters, and they do
+most of the carrying work of the trade to and from the East Coast; they
+are strong and trustworthy. One I saw carried six frasilahs, or 200
+lbs., of ivory from Unyanyemb&eacute; to the sea-coast.</p>
+
+<p>The prefix &quot;<i>Nya</i>&quot; in Nyamwezi seems to mean place or locality, as Mya
+does on the Zambesi. If the name referred to the &quot;moon ornament,&quot; as the
+people believe, the name would be Ba or Wamwezi, but Banyamwezi means
+probably the Ba&mdash;they or people&mdash;Nya, place&mdash;Mwezi, moon, people of the
+moon locality or moon-land.</p>
+
+<p><i>Unyanyemb&eacute;</i>, place of hoes.</p>
+
+<p>Unyamb&eacute;wa.</p>
+
+<p>Unyangoma, place of drums.</p>
+
+<p>Nyanguru&eacute;, place of pigs.</p>
+
+<p>Nyangkondo.</p>
+
+<p>Nyarukw&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>It must be a sore affliction to be bereft of one's reason, and <a name="Page_181" id="Page_181" />the more
+so if the insanity takes the form of uttering thoughts which in a sound
+state we drive from us as impure.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th and 26th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;A touch of fever from exposure.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th April, 1872.</i>&mdash;Better, and thankful. Zahor died of small-pox here,
+after collecting much ivory at Fipa and Urungu. It is all taken up by
+Lewal&eacute;.<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18" /><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></p>
+
+<p>The rains seem nearly over, and are succeeded by very cold easterly
+winds; these cause fever by checking the perspiration, and are well
+known as eminently febrile. The Arabs put the cause of the fever to the
+rains drying up. In my experience it is most unhealthy during the rains
+if one gets wet; the chill is brought on, the bowels cease to act, and
+fever sets in. Now it is the cold wind that operates, and possibly this
+is intensified by the malaria of the drying-up surface. A chill from
+bathing on the 25th in cold water gave me a slight attack.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Unyanyemb&eacute;: bought a cow for 11 dotis of merikano (and
+2 kanik&eacute; for calf), she gives milk, and this makes me independent.</p>
+
+<p>Headman of the Baganda from whom I bought it said, &quot;I go off to pray.&quot;
+He has been taught by Arabs, and is the first proselyte they have
+gained. Baker thinks that the first want of Africans is to teach them to
+<i>want</i>. Interesting, seeing he was bored almost to death by Kamrasi
+wanting everything he had.</p>
+
+<p>Bought three more cows and calves for milk, they give good quantity
+enough for me and mine, and are small shorthorns: one has a hump&mdash;two
+black with white spots and one white&mdash;one black with white face: the
+Baganda were well pleased with the prices given, and so am I. Finished a
+letter for the <i>New York Herald,</i> trying to enlist American zeal to stop
+the East Coast slave-trade: I pray for a blessing on it from the
+All-Gracious. <a name="Page_182" id="Page_182" />[Through a coincidence a singular interest attaches to
+this entry. The concluding words of the letter he refers to are as
+follows:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All I can add in my loneliness is, may Heaven's rich blessing come down
+on everyone, American, English, or Turk, who will help to heal the open
+sore of the world.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>[It was felt that nothing could more palpably represent the man, and
+this quotation has consequently been inscribed upon the tablet erected
+to his memory near his grave in Westminster Abbey. It was noticed some
+time after selecting it that Livingstone wrote these words exactly one
+year before his death, which, as we shall see, took place on the 1st
+May, 1873.]</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd May, 1872.</i>&mdash;The entire population of Unyanyemb&eacute; called Arab is
+eighty males, many of these are country born, and are known by the
+paucity of beard and bridgeless noses, as compared with men from Muscat;
+the Muscatees are more honourable than the mainlanders, and more
+brave&mdash;altogether better looking and better everyway.</p>
+
+<p>If we say that the eighty so-called Arabs here have twenty dependants
+each, 1500 or 1600 is the outside population of Unyanyemb&eacute; in connection
+with the Arabs. It is called an ivory station, that means simply that
+elephant's tusks are the chief articles of trade. But little ivory comes
+to market, every Arab who is able sends bands of his people to different
+parts to trade: the land being free they cultivate patches of maize,
+dura, rice, beans, &amp;c., and after one or two seasons, return with what
+ivory they may have secured. Ujiji is the only mart in the country, and
+it is chiefly for oil, grain, goats, salt, fish, beef, native produce of
+all sorts, and is held daily. A few tusks are sometimes brought, but it
+can scarcely be called an ivory mart for that. It is an institution
+begun and carried on by the natives in <a name="Page_183" id="Page_183" />spite of great drawbacks from
+unjust Arabs. It resembles the markets of Manyuema, but is attended
+every day by about 300 people. No dura has been brought lately to Ujiji,
+because a Belooch man found the son of the chief of Mbwara Island
+peeping in at his women, and beat the young man, so that on returning
+home he died. The Mbwara people always brought much grain before that,
+but since that affair never come.</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs send a few freemen as heads of a party of slaves to trade.
+These select a friendly chief, and spend at least half these goods
+brought in presents on him, and in buying the best food the country
+affords for themselves. It happens frequently that the party comes back
+nearly empty handed, but it is the Banians that lose, and the Arabs are
+not much displeased. This point is not again occupied if it has been a
+dead loss.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Many palavers about Mirambu's death having taken place
+and being concealed. Arabs say that he is a brave man, and the war is
+not near its end. Some northern natives called Bagoy&eacute; get a keg of
+powder and a piece of cloth, go and attack a village, then wait a month
+or so eating the food of the captured place, and come back for stores
+again: thus the war goes on. Prepared tracing paper to draw a map for
+Sir Thomas Maclear. Lewal&eacute; invites me to a feast.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;New moon last night. Went to breakfast with Lewal&eacute;. He
+says that the Mirambo war is virtually against himself as a Seyed Majid
+man. They wish to have him removed, and this would be a benefit.</p>
+
+<p>The Banyamwezi told the Arabs that they did not want them to go to
+fight, because when one Arab was killed all the rest ran away and the
+army got frightened.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Give us your slaves only and we will fight,&quot; say they.</p>
+
+<p>A Magoh&eacute; man gave charms, and they pressed Mirambo sorely. His brother
+sent four tusks as a peace-offering, and <a name="Page_184" id="Page_184" />it is thought that the end is
+near. His mother was plundered, and lost all her cattle.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;No fight, though it was threatened yesterday: they all
+like to talk a great deal before striking a blow. They believe that in
+the multitude of counsellors there is safety. Women singing as they
+pound their grain into meal,&mdash;&quot;Oh, the march of Bwanamokolu to Kata&ntilde;ga!
+Oh, the march to Kata&ntilde;ga and back to Ujiji!&mdash;Oh, oh, oh!&quot; Bwanamokolu
+means the great or old gentleman. Batusi women are very keen traders,
+and very polite and pleasing in their address and pretty way of
+speaking.</p>
+
+<p>I don't know how the great loving Father will bring all out right at
+last, but He knows and will do it.</p>
+
+<p>The African's idea seems to be that they are within the power of a power
+superior to themselves&mdash;apart from and invisible: good; but frequently
+evil and dangerous. This may have been the earliest religious feeling of
+dependence on a Divine power without any conscious feeling of its
+nature. Idols may have come in to give a definite idea of superior
+power, and the primitive faith or impression obtained by Revelation
+seems to have mingled with their idolatry without any sense of
+incongruity. (See Micah in Judges.)<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19" /><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p>
+
+<p>The origin of the primitive faith in Africans and others, seems always
+to have been a divine influence on their dark minds, which has proved
+persistent in all ages. One portion of primitive belief&mdash;the continued
+existence of departed spirits&mdash;seems to have no connection whatever with
+dreams, or, as we should say, with &quot;ghost seeing,&quot; for great agony is
+felt in prospect of bodily mutilation or burning of the body after
+death, as that is believed to render return to one's native land
+impossible. They feel as if it would shut them off from all intercourse
+with relatives after death. They would lose the power of doing good to
+those once<a name="Page_185" id="Page_185" />loved, and evil to those who deserved their revenge. Take the
+case of the slaves in the yoke, singing songs of hate and revenge
+against those who sold them into slavery. They thought it right so to
+harbour hatred, though most of the party had been sold for
+crimes&mdash;adultery, stealing, &amp;c.&mdash;which they knew to be sins.</p>
+
+<p>If Baker's expedition should succeed in annexing the valley of the Nile
+to Egypt, the question arises,&mdash;Would not the miserable condition of the
+natives, when subjected to all the atrocities of the White Nile
+slave-traders, be worse under Egyptian dominion? The villages would be
+farmed out to tax-collectors, the women, children and boys carried off
+into slavery, and the free thought and feeling of the population placed
+under the dead weight of Islam. Bad as the situation now is, if Baker
+leaves it matters will grow worse. It is probable that actual experience
+will correct the fancies he now puts forth as to the proper mode of
+dealing with Africans.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Hamees Wodin Tagh, my friend, is reported slain by
+the Makoa of a large village he went to fight. Other influential Arabs
+are killed, but full information has not yet arrived. He was in youth a
+slave, but by energy and good conduct in trading with the Masai and far
+south of Nyassa, and elsewhere, he rose to freedom and wealth. He had
+good taste in all his domestic arrangements, and seemed to be a good
+man. He showed great kindness to me on my arrival at Chitimbwa's.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;A serpent of dark olive colour was found dead at my
+door this morning, probably killed by a cat. Puss approaches very
+cautiously, and strikes her claws into the head with a blow delivered as
+quick as lightning; then holds the head down with both paws, heedless of
+the wriggling mass of coils behind it; she then bites the neck and
+leaves it, looking with interest to the disfigured head, as if she knew
+that therein had lain the hidden power of mis<a name="Page_186" id="Page_186" />chief. She seems to
+possess a little of the nature of the <i>Ichneumon</i>, which was sacred in
+Egypt from its destroying serpents. The serpent is in pursuit of mice
+when killed by puss.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Singeri, the headman of the Baganda here, offered me
+a cow and calf yesterday, but I declined, as we were strangers both, and
+this is too much for me to take. I said that I would take ten cows at
+Mt&eacute;sa's if he offered them. I gave him a little medicine (arnica) for
+his wife, whose face was burned by smoking over gunpowder. Again he
+pressed the cow and calf in vain.</p>
+
+<p>The reported death of Hamees Wodin Tagh is contradicted. It was so
+circumstantial that I gave it credit, though the false reports in this
+land are one of its most marked characteristics. They are &quot;enough to
+spear a sow.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>13th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;He will keep His word&mdash;the gracious One, full of
+grace and truth&mdash;no doubt of it. He said, &quot;Him that cometh unto me, I
+will in nowise cast out,&quot; and &quot;Whatsoever ye shall ask in my name I will
+give it.&quot; He WILL keep His word: then I can come and humbly present my
+petition, and it will be all right. Doubt is here inadmissible, surely.&mdash;D.L.</p>
+
+<p>Ajala's people, sent to buy ivory in Uganda, were coming back with some
+ten tusks and were attacked at Ugalla by robbers, and one free man
+slain: the rest threw everything down and fled. They came here with
+their doleful tale to-day.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;People came from Ujiji to-day, and report that many
+of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves have died of small-pox&mdash;Fundi and Suliman
+amongst them. Others sent out to get firewood have been captured by the
+Waha. Mohamad's chief slave, Othman, went to see the cause of their
+losses received a spear in the back, the point coming out at <a name="Page_187" id="Page_187" />his
+breast. It is scarcely possible to tell how many of the slaves have
+perished since they were bought or captured, but the loss has been
+grievous.</p>
+
+<p>Lewal&eacute; off to Mfutu to loiter and not to fight. The Bagoy&eacute; don't wish
+Arabs to come near the scene of action, because, say they, &quot;When one
+Arab is killed all the rest ran away, and they frighten us thereby. Stay
+at M'futu; we will do all the fighting.&quot; This is very acceptable advice.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;A man came from Ujiji to say one of the party at
+Kasongo's reports that a marauding party went thence to the island of
+Bazula north of them. They ferried them to an island, and in coming back
+they were assaulted by the islanders in turn. They speared two in canoes
+shoving off, and the rest, panic-struck, took to the water, and
+thirty-five were slain. It was a just punishment, and shows what the
+Manyuema can do, if aroused to right their wrongs. No news of Baker's
+party; but Abed and Hassani are said to be well, and far down the
+Lualaba. Nassur Masudi is at Kasongo's, probably afraid by the Zula
+slaughter to go further. They will shut their own market against
+themselves. Lewal&eacute; sends off letters to the Sultan to-day. I have no
+news to send, but am waiting wearily.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Ailing. Making cheeses for the journey: good, but
+sour rather, as the milk soon turns in this climate, and we don't use
+rennet, but allow the milk to coagulate of itself, and it does thicken
+in half a day.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th-19th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;One of Dugumb&eacute;'s men came to-day from Ujiji. He
+confirms the slaughter of Matereka's people, but denies that of
+Dugumb&eacute;'s men. They went to Lomam&eacute; about eleven days west, and found it
+to be about the size of Luamo; it comes from a Lake, and goes to
+Lualaba, near the Kisingit&eacute;, a cataract. Dugumb&eacute; then sent his people
+down Lualaba, where much ivory is to be obtained. They secured a great
+deal of copper&mdash;1000 thick bracelets&mdash;on <a name="Page_188" id="Page_188" />the south-west of Nyangw&eacute;, and
+some ivory, but not so much as they desired. No news of Abed. Lomam&eacute;
+water is black, and black scum comes up in it.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Better. Very cold winds. The cattle of the Batusi
+were captured by the Arabs to prevent them going off with the Baganda:
+my four amongst them. I sent over for them and they were returned this
+morning. Thirty-five of Mohamad's slaves died of small-pox.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st May, 1872.</i>&mdash;The genuine Africans of this region have flattened
+nose-bridges; the higher grades of the tribes have prominent
+nose-bridges, and are on this account greatly admired by the Arabs. The
+Batusi here, the Balunda of Casembe, and Itawa of Nsama, and many
+Manyuema have straight noses, but every now and then you come to
+districts in which the bridgeless noses give the air of the low English
+bruiser class, or faces inclining to King Charles the Second's spaniels.
+The Arab progeny here have scanty beards, and many grow to a very great
+height&mdash;tall, gaunt savages; while the Muscatees have prominent
+nose-bridges, good beards, and are polite and hospitable.</p>
+
+<p>I wish I had some of the assurance possessed by others, but I am
+oppressed with the apprehension that after all it may turn out that I
+have been following the Congo; and who would risk being put into a
+cannibal pot, and converted into black man for it?</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Baganga are very black, with a tinge of copper colour
+in some. Bridgeless noses all.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd May, 1872.</i>&mdash;There seems but little prospect of Christianity
+spreading by ordinary means among Mohamadans. Their pride is a great
+obstacle, and is very industriously nurtured by its votaries. No new
+invention or increase of power on the part of Christians seems to
+disturb the self-complacent belief that ultimately all power and
+dominion in this world will fall into the hands of Moslems. Mohamad will
+appear at last in glory, with all his followers saved by him. <a name="Page_189" id="Page_189" />When Mr.
+Stanley's Arab boy from Jerusalem told the Arab bin Saleh that he was a
+Christian, he was asked, &quot;Why so, don't you know that all the world will
+soon be Mohamadan? Jerusalem is ours; all the world is ours, and in a
+short time we shall overcome all.&quot; Theirs are great expectations!</p>
+
+<p>A family of ten Whydah birds <i>(Vidua purpurea)</i> come to the
+pomegranate-trees in our yard. The eight young ones, full-fledged, are
+fed by the dam, as young pigeons are. The food is brought up from the
+crop without the bowing and bending of the pigeon. They chirrup briskly
+for food: the dam gives most, while the redbreasted cock gives one or
+two, and then knocks the rest away.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Speke at Kaseng&eacute; islet inadvertently made a general
+statement thus: &quot;The mothers of these savage people have infinitely less
+affection than many savage beasts of my acquaintance. I have seen a
+mother bear, galled by frequent shots, obstinately meet her death by
+repeatedly returning under fire whilst endeavouring to rescue her young
+from the grasp of intruding men. But here, for a simple loin-cloth or
+two, human mothers eagerly exchanged their little offspring, delivering
+them into perpetual bondage to my Beluch soldiers.&quot;&mdash;<i>Speke</i>, pp. 234,5.
+For the sake of the little story of &quot;a bear mother,&quot; Speke made a
+general assertion on a very small and exceptional foundation. Frequent
+inquiries among the most intelligent and far-travelled Arabs failed to
+find confirmation of this child-selling, except in the very rare case of
+a child cutting the upper front teeth before the under, and because this
+child is believed to be &quot;moiko&quot; (<i>unlucky</i>), and certain to bring death
+into the family. It is called an Arab child, and sold to the first Arab,
+or even left at his door. This is the only case the Arabs know of
+child-selling. Speke had only two Beluch soldiers with him, and the idea
+that they loaded themselves with infants, at once stamps the tale as
+fabulous. He may <a name="Page_190" id="Page_190" />have seen one sold, an extremely rare and exceptional
+case; but the inferences drawn are just like that of the Frenchman who
+thought the English so partial to suicide in November, that they might
+be seen suspended from trees in the common highways.</p>
+
+<p>In crossing Tanganyika three several times I was detained at the islet
+Kaseng&eacute; about ten weeks in all. On each occasion Arab traders were
+present, all eager to buy slaves, but none were offered, and they
+assured me that they had never seen the habit alleged to exist by Speke,
+though they had heard of the &quot;unlucky&quot; cases referred to. Everyone has
+known of poor little foundlings in England, but our mothers are not
+credited with less affection than she-bears.</p>
+
+<p>I would say to missionaries, Come on, brethren, to the real heathen. You
+have no idea how brave you are till you try. Leaving the coast tribes,
+and devoting yourselves heartily to the savages, as they are called, you
+will find, with some drawbacks and wickednesses, a very great deal to
+admire and love. Many statements made about them require confirmation.
+You will never see women selling their infants: the Arabs never did, nor
+have I. An assertion of the kind was made by mistake.</p>
+
+<p>Captive children are often sold, but not by their mothers. Famine
+sometimes reduces fathers to part with them, but the selling of
+children, as a general practice, is quite unknown, and, as Speke put it,
+quite a mistake.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th and 26th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Cold weather. Lewal&eacute; sends for all Arabs to
+make a grand assault, as it is now believed that Mirambo is dead, and
+only his son, with few people, remains.</p>
+
+<p>Two Whydah birds, after their nest was destroyed several times, now try
+again in another pomegranate-tree in the yard. They put back their eggs,
+as they have the power to do, and build again.</p>
+
+<p>The trout has the power of keeping back the ova when circumstances are
+unfavourable to their deposit. She can <a name="Page_191" id="Page_191" />quite absorb the whole, but
+occasionally the absorbents have too much to do; the ovarium, and
+eventually the whole abdomen, seems in a state of inflammation, as when
+they are trying to remove a mortified human limb; and the poor fish,
+feeling its strength leaving it, true to instinct, goes to the entrance
+to the burn where it ought to have spawned, and, unable to ascend, dies.
+The defect is probably the want of the aid of a milter.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Another pair of the kind (in which the cock is
+redbreasted) had ten chickens, also rebuilds afresh. The red cock-bird
+feeds all the brood. Each little one puts his head on one side as he
+inserts his bill, chirruping briskly, and bothering him. The young ones
+lift up a feather as a child would a doll, and invite others to do the
+same, in play. So, too, with another pair. The cock skips from side to
+side with a feather in his bill, and the hen is pleased: nature is full
+of enjoyment. Near Kasanganga's I saw boys shooting locusts that settled
+on the ground with little bows and arrows.</p>
+
+<p>Cock Whydah bird died in the night. The brood came and chirruped to it
+for food, and tried to make it feed them, as if not knowing death!</p>
+
+<p>A wagtail dam refused its young a caterpillar till it had been
+killed&mdash;she ran away from it, but then gave it when ready to be
+swallowed. The first smile of an infant with its toothless gums is one
+of the pleasantest sights in nature. It is innocence claiming kinship,
+and asking to be loved in its helplessness.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Many parts of this interior land present most
+inviting prospects for well-sustained efforts of private benevolence.
+Karagu&eacute;, for instance, with its intelligent friendly chief Rumainyika
+(Speke's Rumanika), and Bouganda, with its teeming population, rain, and
+friendly chief, who could easily be swayed by an energetic prudent
+missionary. The evangelist must not depend on foreign support <a name="Page_192" id="Page_192" />other
+than an occasional supply of beads and calico; coffee is indigenous, and
+so is sugar-cane. When detained by ulcerated feet in Manyuema I made
+sugar by pounding the cane in the common wooden mortar of the country,
+squeezing out the juice very hard and boiling it till thick; the defect
+it had was a latent acidity, for which I had no lime, and it soon all
+fermented. I saw sugar afterwards at Ujiji made in the same way, and
+that kept for months. Wheat and rice are cultivated by the Arabs in all
+this upland region; the only thing a missionary needs in order to secure
+an abundant supply is to follow the Arab advice as to the proper season
+for sowing. Pomegranates, guavas, lemons and oranges are abundant in
+Unyanyemb&eacute;; mangoes flourish, and grape vines are beginning to be
+cultivated; papaws grow everywhere. Onions, radishes, pumpkins and
+watermelons prosper, and so would most European vegetables, if the
+proper seasons were selected for planting, and the most important point
+attended to in bringing the seeds. These must never be soldered in tins
+or put in close boxes; a process of sweating takes place when they are
+confined, as in a box or hold of the ship, and the power of vegetating
+is destroyed, but garden seeds put up in common brown paper, and hung in
+the cabin on the voyage, and not exposed to the direct rays of the sun
+afterwards, I have found to be as good as in England.</p>
+
+<p>It would be a sort of Robinson Crusoe life, but with abundant materials
+for surrounding oneself with comforts, and improving the improvable
+among the natives. Clothing would require but small expense: four suits
+of strong tweed served me comfortably for five years. Woollen clothing
+is the best; if all wool, it wears long and prevents chills. The
+temperature here in the beginning of winter ranges from 62&deg; to 75&deg; Fahr.
+In summer it seldom goes above 84&deg;, as the country generally is from
+3600 to 4000 feet high. Gently undulating plains with outcropping
+<a name="Page_193" id="Page_193" />tree-covered granite hills on the ridges and springs in valleys will
+serve as a description of the country.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th May, 1872.</i>&mdash;Halima ran away in a quarrel with Ntao&eacute;ka: I went
+over to Sultan bin Ali and sent a note after her, but she came back of
+her own accord, and only wanted me to come outside and tell her to
+enter. I did so, and added, &quot;You must not quarrel again.&quot; She has been
+extremely good ever since I got her from Katombo or Moene-mokaia: I
+never had to reprove her once. She is always very attentive and clever,
+and never stole, nor would she allow her husband to steal. She is the
+best spoke in the wheel; this her only escapade is easily forgiven, and
+I gave her a warm cloth for the cold, by way of assuring her that I had
+no grudge against her. I shall free her, and buy her a house and garden
+at Zanzibar, when we get there.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20" /><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> Smokes or haze begins, and birds,
+stimulated by the cold, build briskly.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th May, 1872, Sunday.</i>&mdash;Sent over to Sultan bin Ali, to write another
+note to Lewal&eacute;, to say first note not needed.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st May, 1872.</i>&mdash;The so-called Arab war with Mirambo drags its slow
+length along most wearily. After it is over then we shall get Banyamwezi
+pagazi in abundance. It is not now known whether Mirambo is alive or
+not: some say that he died long ago, and his son keeps up his state
+instead.</p>
+
+<p>In reference to this Nile source I have been kept in perpetual doubt and
+perplexity. I know too much to be positive. Great Lualaba, or Lualubba,
+as Manyuema say, may turn out to be the Congo and Nile, a shorter river
+after all&mdash;the fountains flowing north and south seem in favour of its
+being the Nile. Great westing is in favour of the Congo. It would be
+comfortable to be positive like Baker. &quot;Every drop from the passing
+shower to the roaring moun<a name="Page_194" id="Page_194" />tain torrent must fall into Albert Lake, a
+giant at its birth.&quot; How soothing to be positive.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Visited by Jemadar Hamees from Katanga, who gives the
+following information.</p>
+
+<p>UNYANYEMB&Eacute;, <i>Tuesday</i>.&mdash;Hamees bin Jumaadarsabel, a Beluch, came here
+from Katanga to-day. He reports that the three Portuguese traders, J&atilde;o,
+Domasiko, and Domasho, came to Katanga from Matiamvo. They bought
+quantities of ivory and returned: they were carried in Mashilahs<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21" /><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> by
+slaves. This Hamees gave them pieces of gold from the rivulet there
+between the two copper or malachite hills from which copper is dug. He
+says that Tipo Tipo is now at Katanga, and has purchased much ivory from
+Kayomba or Kayombo in Rua. He offers to guide me thither, going first to
+Mer&eacute;r&eacute;'s, where Amran Masudi has now the upper hand, and Mer&eacute;r&eacute; offers
+to pay all the losses he has caused to Arabs and others. Two letters
+were sent by the Portuguese to the East Coast, one is in Amran's hands.
+Hamees Wodin Tagh is alive and well. These Portuguese went nowhere from
+Katanga, so that they have not touched the sources of the Nile, for
+which I am thankful.</p>
+
+<p>Tipo Tipo has made friends with Merosi, the Monyamwez&eacute; headman at
+Katanga, by marrying his daughter, and has formed the plan of assaulting
+Casembe in conjunction with him because Casembe put six of Tipo Tipo's
+men to death. He will now be digging gold at Katanga till this man
+returns with gunpowder.</p>
+
+<p>[Many busy calculations are met with here which are too involved to be
+given in detail. At one point we see a rough conjecture as to the length
+of the road through Fipa.]</p>
+
+<p>On looking at the projected route by Mer&eacute;r&eacute;'s I see<a name="Page_195" id="Page_195" />that it will be a
+saving of a large angle into Fipa = 350 into Basango country S.S.W. or
+S. and by W., this comes into Lat. 10' S., and from this W.S.W. 400' to
+Long. of Katanga, skirting Bangweolo S. shore in 12&deg; S. = the whole
+distance = 750', say 900'.</p>
+
+<p>[Further on we see that he reckoned on his work occupying him till
+1874.]</p>
+
+<p>If Stanley arrived the 1st of May at Zanzibar:&mdash;allow = 20 days to get
+men and settle with them = May 20th, men leave Zanzibar 22nd of May =
+now 1st of June.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">On the road may be&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 10 days</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Still to come 30 days, June&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  30&nbsp;  &quot;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 22em;">&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ought to arrive 10th or 15th of July&nbsp; &nbsp; 40&nbsp;  &quot;</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>14th of June = Stanley being away now 3 months; say he left Zanzibar
+24th of May = at Aden 1st of June = Suez 8th of June, near Malta 14th of
+June.</p>
+
+<p>Stanley's men may arrive in July next. Then engage pagazi half a month =
+August, 5 months of this year will remain for journey, the whole of 1873
+will be swallowed up in work, but in February or March, 1874, please the
+Almighty Disposer of events, I shall complete my task and retire.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd June, 1872.</i>&mdash;A second crop here, as in Angola. The lemons and
+pomegranates are flowering and putting out young fruits anew, though the
+crops of each have just been gathered. Wheat planted a month ago is now
+a foot high, and in three months will be harvested. The rice and dura
+are being reaped, and the hoes are busy getting virgin land ready.
+Beans, and Madagascar underground beans, voandzeia and ground-nuts are
+ripe now. Mangoes are formed; the weather feels cold, min. 62&deg;, max.
+74&deg;, and <a name="Page_196" id="Page_196" />stimulates the birds to pair and build, though they are of
+broods scarcely weaned from being fed by their parents. Bees swarm and
+pass over us. Sky clear, with fleecy clouds here and there.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Sultan bin Ali called. He says that the path by Fipa
+is the best, it has plenty of game, and people are friendly.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22" /><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> By
+going to Amran I should get into the vicinity of Mer&eacute;r&eacute;, and possibly be
+detained, as the country is in a state of war. The Beluch would
+naturally wish to make a good thing of me, as he did of Speke. I gave
+him a cloth and arranged the Sungomaz&eacute; beads, but the box and beads
+weigh 140 lbs., or two men's loads. I visited Lewal&eacute;. Heard of Baker
+going to Unyoro Water, Lake Albert. Lewal&eacute; praises the road by
+Moeneyungo and Mer&eacute;r&eacute;, and says he will give a guide, but he never went
+that way.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Othman, our guide from Ujiji hither, called to-day,
+and says positively that the way by Fipa is decidedly the shortest and
+easiest: there is plenty of game, and the people are all friendly. He
+reports that Mirambo's headman, Merungw&eacute;, was assaulted and killed, and
+all his food, cattle, and grain used. Mirambo remains alone. He has, it
+seems, inspired terror in the Arab and Banyamwezi mind by his charms,
+and he will probably be allowed to retreat north by flight, and the war
+for a season close; if so, we shall get plenty of Banyamwezi pagazi, and
+be off, for which I earnestly long and pray.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Sangara, one of Mr. Stanley's men, returned from
+Bagamoio, and reports that my caravan is at Ugogo. He arrived to-day,
+and reports that Stanley and the American Consul acted like good
+fellows, and soon got a party of over fifty off, as he heard while at
+Bagamoio, and he left. The main body, he thinks, are in Ugogo. He<a name="Page_197" id="Page_197" />came
+on with the news, but the letters were not delivered to him. I do most
+fervently thank the good Lord of all for His kindness to me through
+these gentlemen. The men will come here about the end of this month.
+Bombay happily pleaded sickness as an excuse for not re-engaging, as
+several others have done. He saw that I got a clear view of his
+failings, and he could not hope to hoodwink me.</p>
+
+<p>After Sangara came, I went over to Kukuru to see what the Lewal&eacute; had
+received, but he was absent at Tabora. A great deal of shouting, firing
+of guns, and circumgyration by the men who had come from the war just
+outside the stockade of Nkisiwa (which is surrounded by a hedge of dark
+euphorbia and stands in a level hollow) was going on as we descended the
+gentle slope towards it. Two heads had been put up as trophies in the
+village, and it was asserted that Marukw&eacute;, a chief man of Mirambo, had
+been captured at Uvinza, and his head would soon come too. It actually
+did come, and was put up on a pole.</p>
+
+<p>I am most unfeignedly thankful that Stanley and Webb have acted nobly.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;On 22nd June Stanley was 100 days gone: he must be
+in London now.</p>
+
+<p>Seyed bin Mohamad Margibb&eacute; called to say that he was going off towards
+Katanga to-morrow by way of Amran. I feel inclined to go by way of Fipa
+rather, though I should much like to visit Mer&eacute;r&eacute;. By the bye, he says
+too that the so-called Portuguese had filed teeth, and are therefore
+Mambarr&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Lewal&eacute; doubts Sangara on account of having brought
+no letters. Nothing can be believed in this land unless it is in black
+and white, and but little even then; the most circumstantial details are
+often mere figments of the brain. The one half one hears may safely be
+called false, and the other half doubtful or <i>not proven.</i></p>
+
+<p>Sultan bin Ali doubts Sangara's statements also, but says, &quot;<a name="Page_198" id="Page_198" />Let us wait
+and see the men arrive, to confirm or reject them.&quot; I incline to belief,
+because he says that he did not see the men, but heard of them at
+Bagamoio.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Nsar&eacute; chief, Msalala, came selling from Sakuma on
+the north&mdash;a jocular man, always a favourite with the ladies. He offered
+a hoe as a token of friendship, but I bought it, as we are, I hope, soon
+going off, and it clears the tent floor and ditch round it in wet
+weather.</p>
+
+<p>Mirambo made a sortie against a headman in alliance with the Arabs, and
+was quite successful, which shows that he is not so much reduced as
+reports said.</p>
+
+<p>Boiling points to-day about 9 A.M. There is a full degree of difference
+between boiling in an open pot and in Casella's apparatus.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">205&deg;.1 open pot&nbsp; }</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 10.5em;">}&nbsp; 69&deg; air.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">206&deg;.1 Casella&nbsp;  }</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>About 200 Baguha came here, bringing much ivory and palm oil for sale
+because there is no market nor goods at Ujiji for the produce. A few
+people came also from Buganda, bringing four tusks and an invitation to
+Seyed Burghash to send for two housefuls of ivory which Mt&eacute;za has
+collected.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Sent over a little quinine to Sultan bin Ali&mdash;he is
+ailing of fever&mdash;and a glass of &quot;Moiko&quot; the shameful!</p>
+
+<p>The Ptolemaic map defines people according to their food. The
+Elephantophagi, the Struthiophagi, the Ichthyophagi, and Anthropophagi.
+If we followed the same sort of classification our definition would be
+the drink, thus:&mdash;the tribe of stout-guzzlers, the roaring
+potheen-fuddlers, the whisky-fishoid-drinkers, the vin-ordinaire
+bibbers, the lager-beer-swillers, and an outlying tribe of the brandy
+cocktail persuasion.</p>
+
+<p>[His keen enjoyment in noticing the habits of animals <a name="Page_199" id="Page_199" />and birds serves
+a good purpose whilst waiting wearily and listening to disputed rumours
+concerning the Zanzibar porters. The little orphan birds seem to get on
+somehow or other; perhaps the Englishman's eye was no bad protection,
+and his pity towards the fledglings was a good lesson, we will hope, to
+the children around the Temb&eacute; at Kwihara&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p><i>19th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Whydahs, though full fledged, still gladly take a
+feed from their dam, putting down the breast to the ground and cocking
+up the bill and chirruping in the most engaging manner and winning way
+they know. She still gives them a little, but administers a friendly
+shove off too. They all pick up feathers or grass, and hop from side to
+side of their mates, as if saying, &quot;Come, let us play at making little
+houses.&quot; The wagtail has shaken her young quite off, and has a new nest.
+She warbles prettily, very much like a canary, and is extremely active
+in catching flies, but eats crumbs of bread-and-milk too. Sun-birds
+visit the pomegranate flowers and eat insects therein too, as well as
+nectar. The young whydah birds crouch closely together at night for
+heat. They look like a woolly ball on a branch. By day they engage in
+pairing and coaxing each other. They come to the same twig every night.
+Like children they try and lift heavy weights of feathers above their
+strength.</p>
+
+<p>[How fully he hoped to reach the hill from which he supposed the Nile to
+flow is shown in the following words written at this time:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p>I trust in Providence still to help me. I know the four rivers Zambesi,
+Kafu&eacute;, Luapula, and Lomam&eacute;, their fountains must exist in one region.</p>
+
+<p>An influential Muganda is dead of dysentery: no medicine had any effect
+in stopping the progress of the disease. <a name="Page_200" id="Page_200" />This is much colder than his
+country. Another is blind from ophthalmia.</p>
+
+<p>Great hopes are held that the war which has lasted a full year will now
+be brought to a close, and Mirambo either be killed or flee. As he is
+undoubtedly an able man, his flight may involve much trouble and
+guerilla warfare.</p>
+
+<p>Clear cold weather, and sickly for those who have only thin clothing,
+and not all covered.</p>
+
+<p>The women work very hard in providing for their husbands' kitchens. The
+rice is the most easily prepared grain: three women stand round a huge
+wooden mortar with pestles in their hands, a gallon or so of the
+unhusked rice&mdash;called Mopunga here and paddy in India&mdash;is poured in, and
+the three heavy pestles worked in exact time; each jerks up her body as
+she lifts the pestle and strikes it into the mortar with all her might,
+lightening the labour with some wild ditty the while, though one hears
+by the strained voice that she is nearly out of breath. When the husks
+are pretty well loosened, the grain is put into a large plate-shaped
+basket and tossed so as to bring the chaff to one side, the vessel is
+then heaved downwards and a little horizontal motion given to it which
+throws the refuse out; the partially cleared grain is now returned to
+the mortar, again pounded and cleared of husks, and a semicircular toss
+of the vessel sends all the remaining unhusked grain to one side, which
+is lifted out with the hand, leaving the chief part quite clean: they
+certainly work hard and well. The maize requires more labour by far: it
+is first pounded to remove the outer scales from the grain, then steeped
+for three days in water, then pounded, the scales again separated by the
+shallow-basket tossings, then pounded fine, and the fine white flour
+separated by the basket from certain hard rounded particles, which are
+cooked as a sort of granular porridge&mdash;&quot;Mty&eacute;ll&eacute;.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>When Ntao&eacute;ka chose to follow us rather than go to the <a name="Page_201" id="Page_201" />coast, I did not
+like to have a fine-looking woman among us unattached, and proposed that
+she should marry one of my three worthies, Chuma, Gardner, or Mabruki,
+but she smiled at the idea. Chuma was evidently too lazy ever to get a
+wife; the other two were contemptible in appearance, and she has a good
+presence and is buxom. Chuma promised reform: &quot;he had been lazy, he
+admitted, because he had no wife.&quot; Circumstances led to the other women
+wishing Ntao&eacute;ka married, and on my speaking to her again she consented.
+I have noticed her ever since working hard from morning to night: the
+first up in the cold mornings, making fire and hot water, pounding,
+carrying water, wood, sweeping, cooking.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st June, 1872.</i>&mdash;No jugglery or sleight-of-hand, as was recommended
+to Napoleon III., would have any effect in the civilization of the
+Africans; they have too much good sense for that. Nothing brings them to
+place thorough confidence in Europeans but a long course of well-doing.
+They believe readily in the supernatural as effecting any new process or
+feat of skill, for it is part of their original faith to ascribe
+everything above human agency to unseen spirits. Goodness or
+unselfishness impresses their minds more than any kind of skill or
+power. They say, &quot;You have different hearts from ours; all black men's
+hearts are bad, but yours are good.&quot; The prayer to Jesus for a new heart
+and right spirit at once commends itself as appropriate. Music has great
+influence on those who have musical ears, and often leads to conversion.</p>
+
+<p>[Here and there he gives more items of intelligence from the war which
+afford a perfect representation of the rumours and contradictions which
+harass the listener in Africa, especially if he is interested, as
+Livingstone was, in the re-establishment of peace between the
+combatants.]</p>
+
+<p>Lewal&eacute; is off to the war with Mirambo; he is to finish <a name="Page_202" id="Page_202" />it now! A
+continuous fusilade along his line of march west will expend much
+powder, but possibly get the spirits up. If successful, we shall get
+Banyamwezi pagazi in numbers.</p>
+
+<p>Mirambo is reported to have sent 100 tusks and 100 slaves towards the
+coast to buy gunpowder. If true, the war is still far from being
+finished; but falsehood is fashionable.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Went over to Kwikuru and engaged Mohamad bin Seyde
+to speak to Nkasiwa for pagazi; he wishes to go himself. The people sent
+by Mirambo to buy gunpowder in Ugogo came to Kitambi, he reported the
+matter to Nkasiwa that they had come, and gave them pombe. When Lewal&eacute;
+heard it, he said, &quot;Why did Kitambi not kill them; he is a partaker in
+Mirambo's guilt?&quot; A large gathering yesterday at M'futu to make an
+assault on the last stockade in hostility.</p>
+
+<p>[A few notes in another pocket-book are placed under this date. Thus:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p><i>24th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;A continuous covering of forests is a sign of a
+virgin country. The earlier seats of civilization are bare and treeless
+according to Humboldt. The civilization of the human race sets bounds to
+the increase of forests. It is but recently that sylvan decorations
+rejoice the eyes of the Northern Europeans. The old forests attest the
+youthfulness of our civilization. The aboriginal woods of Scotland are
+but recently cut down. (Hugh Miller's <i>Sketches</i>, p. 7.)</p>
+
+<p>Mosses often evidence the primitive state of things at the time of the
+Roman invasion. Roman axe like African, a narrow chisel-shaped tool,
+left sticking in the stumps.</p>
+
+<p>The medical education has led me to a continual tendency to suspend the
+judgment. What a state of blessedness it would have been had I possessed
+the dead certainty of the homoeopathic persuasion, and as soon as I
+found the Lakes Bangweolo, Moero, and Kamolondo pouring out their waters
+<a name="Page_203" id="Page_203" />down the great central valley, bellowed out, &quot;Hurrah! Eureka!&quot; and gone
+home in firm and honest belief that I had settled it, and no mistake.
+Instead of that I am even now not at all &quot;cock-sure&quot; that I have not
+been following down what may after all be the Congo.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Send over to Tabora to try and buy a cow from
+Basakuma, or northern people, who have brought about 100 for sale. I got
+two oxen for a coil of brass wire and seven dotis of cloth.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17" /><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> This elephant was subsequently sent by Dr. Kirk to Sir
+Philip Wodehouse, Governor of Bombay. When in Zanzibar it was perfectly
+tame. We understand it is now in the possession of Sir Solar Jung, to
+whom it was presented by Sir Philip Wodehouse.&mdash;Ed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18" /><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Lewal&eacute; appears to be the title by which the Governor of
+the town is called.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19" /><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Judges xviii.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20" /><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Halima followed the Doctor's remains to Zanzibar. It does
+seem hard that his death leaves her long services entirely
+unrequited.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21" /><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The Portuguese name for palanquin.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22" /><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> It will be seen that this was fully confirmed afterwards
+by Livingstone's men: the fact may be of importance to future
+travellers.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII" /><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204" />CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>[And now the long-looked for letters came in by various hands, but with
+little regularity. It is not here necessary to refer to the withdrawal
+of the Livingstone Relief Expedition which took place as soon as Mr.
+Stanley confronted Lieutenant Dawson on his way inland. Suffice it to
+say that the various members of this Expedition, of which his second
+son, Mr. Oswell Livingstone, was one, had already quitted Africa for
+England when these communications reached Unyanyemb&eacute;.]</p>
+
+<p><i>27th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Received a letter from Oswell yesterday, dated
+Bagamoio, 14th May, which awakened thankfulness, anxiety, and deep
+sorrow.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Went over to Kwikuru yesterday to speak about
+pagazi. Nkasiwa was off at M'futu to help in the great assault on
+Mirambo, which is hoped to be the last. But Mohamad bin Seyed promised
+to arrange with the chief on his return. I was told that Nkasiwa has the
+<a name="Page_205" id="Page_205" />head of Morukw&eacute; in a kirindo or band-box, made of the inner bark of a
+tree, and when Morukw&eacute;'s people have recovered they will come and redeem
+it with ivory and slaves, and bury it in his grave, as they did the head
+of Ishbosheth in Abner's grave in Hebron.</p>
+
+<p>Dugumb&eacute;'s man, who went off to Ujiji to bring ivory, returned to-day,
+having been attacked by robbers of Mirambo. The pagazi threw down all
+their loads and ran; none were killed, but they lost all.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th June, 1872.</i>&mdash;Received a packet from Sheikh bin Nasib containing a
+letter for him and one 'Pall Mall Gazette,' one Overland Mail and four
+Punches. Provision has been made for my daughter by Her Majesty's
+Government of 300<i>l.</i>, but I don't understand the matter clearly.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Make up a packet for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Webb, of
+Zanzibar: explain to Kirk, and beg him to investigate and punish, and
+put blame on right persons. Write Sir Bartle Frere and Agnes: send large
+packet of astronomical observations and sketch map to Sir Thomas Maclear
+by a native, Suleiman.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Received a note from Oswell, written in April last,
+containing the sad intelligence of Sir Roderick's departure from among
+us. Alas! alas! this is the only time in my life I ever felt inclined to
+use the word, and it bespeaks a sore heart: the best friend I ever
+had&mdash;true, warm, and abiding&mdash;he loved me more than I deserved: he looks
+down on me still. I must feel resigned to the loss by the Divine Will,
+but still I regret and mourn.</p>
+
+<p>Wearisome waiting, this; and yet the men cannot be here before the
+middle or end of this month. I have been sorely let and hindered in this
+journey, but it may have been all for the best. I will trust in Him to
+whom I commit my way.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Weary! weary!</p>
+
+<p><i>7th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Waiting wearily here, and hoping that the <a name="Page_206" id="Page_206" />good and
+loving Father of all may favour me, and help me to finish my work
+quickly and well.</p>
+
+<p>Temperature at 6 A.M. 61&deg;; feels cold. Winds blow regularly from the
+east; if it changes to N.W. brings a thick mantle of cold grey clouds. A
+typhoon did great damage at Zanzibar, wrecking ships and destroying
+cocoa-nuts, carafu, and all fruits: happened five days after Seyed
+Burghash's return from Mecca.</p>
+
+<p>At the Loangwa of Zumbo we came to a party of hereditary hippopotamus
+hunters, called Makembw&eacute; or Akombw&eacute;. They follow no other occupation,
+but when their game is getting scanty at one spot they remove to some
+other part of the Loangwa, Zambesi, or Shir&eacute;, and build temporary huts
+on an island, where their women cultivate patches: the flesh of the
+animals they kill is eagerly exchanged by the more settled people for
+grain. They are not stingy, and are everywhere welcome guests. I never
+heard of any fraud in dealing, or that they had been guilty of an
+outrage on the poorest: their chief characteristic is their courage.
+Their hunting is the bravest thing I ever saw. Each canoe is manned by
+two men; they are long light craft, scarcely half an inch in thickness,
+about eighteen inches beam, and from eighteen to twenty feet long. They
+are formed for speed, and shaped somewhat like our racing boats. Each
+man uses a broad short paddle, and as they guide the canoe slowly down
+stream to a sleeping hippopotamus not a single ripple is raised on the
+smooth water; they look as if holding in their breath, and communicate
+by signs only. As they come near the prey the harpooner in the bow lays
+down his paddle and rises slowly up, and there he stands erect,
+motionless, and eager, with the long-handled weapon poised at arm's
+length above his head, till coming close to the beast he plunges it with
+all his might in towards the heart. During this exciting feat he has to
+keep his balance exactly. His neighbour in the stern at once backs his
+paddle, the <a name="Page_207" id="Page_207" />harpooner sits down, seizes his paddle, and backs too to
+escape: the animal surprised and wounded seldom returns the attack at
+this stage of the hunt. The next stage, however, is full of danger.</p>
+
+<p>The barbed blade of the harpoon is secured by a long and very strong
+rope wound round the handle: it is intended to come out of its socket,
+and while the iron head is firmly fixed in the animal's body the rope
+unwinds and the handle floats on the surface. The hunter next goes to
+the handle and hauls on the rope till he knows that he is right over the
+beast: when he feels the line suddenly slacken he is prepared to deliver
+another harpoon the instant that hippo.'s enormous jaws appear with a
+terrible grunt above the water. The backing by the paddles is again
+repeated, but hippo. often assaults the canoe, crunches it with his
+great jaws as easily as a pig would a bunch of asparagus, or shivers it
+with a kick by his hind foot. Deprived of their canoe the gallant
+comrades instantly dive and swim to the shore under water: they say that
+the infuriated beast looks for them on the surface, and being below they
+escape his sight. When caught by many harpoons the crews of several
+canoes seize the handles and drag him hither and thither till, weakened
+by loss of blood, he succumbs.</p>
+
+<p>This hunting requires the greatest skill, courage, and nerve that can be
+conceived&mdash;double armed and threefold brass, or whatever the &AElig;neid says.
+The Makombw&eacute; are certainly a magnificent race of men, hardy and active
+in their habits, and well fed, as the result of their brave exploits;
+every muscle is well developed, and though not so tall as some tribes,
+their figures are compact and finely proportioned: being a family
+occupation it has no doubt helped in the production of fine physical
+development. Though all the people among whom they sojourn would like
+the profits they secure by the flesh and curved tusks, and no game is
+preserved, I have met with no competitors <a name="Page_208" id="Page_208" />to them except the Wayeiye of
+Lake Ngami and adjacent rivers.</p>
+
+<p>I have seen our dragoon officers perform fencing and managing their
+horses so dexterously that every muscle seemed trained to its fullest
+power and efficiency, and perhaps had they been brought up as Makombw&eacute;
+they might have equalled their daring and consummate skill: but we have
+no sport, except perhaps Indian tiger shooting, requiring the courage
+and coolness this enterprise demands. The danger may be appreciated if
+one remembers that no sooner is blood shed in the water than all the
+crocodiles below are immediately drawn up stream by the scent, and are
+ready to act the part of thieves in a London crowd, or worse.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;At noon, wet bulb 66&deg;, dry 74&deg;. These observations
+are taken from thermometers hung four feet from the ground on the cool
+side (south) of the house, and beneath an earthen roof with complete
+protection from wind and radiation. Noon known by the shadows being
+nearly perpendicular. To show what is endured by a traveller, the
+following register is given of the heat on a spot, four feet from the
+ground, protected from the wind by a reed fence, but exposed to the
+sun's rays, slanting a little.</p>
+
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Noon.&nbsp;  Wet Bulb 78&deg;&nbsp;  Dry Bulb 102&deg;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">2 P.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  77&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  99&deg;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">3 P.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  78&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 102&deg;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">4 P.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  72&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  88&deg; (Agreeable marching now.)</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">6 P.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  66&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  77&deg;</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><i>9th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Clear and cold the general weather: cold is
+penetrating. War forces have gone out of M'futu and built a camp. Fear
+of Mirambo rules them all: each one is nervously anxious not to die, and
+in no way ashamed to own it. The Arabs keep out of danger: &quot;Better to
+sleep in a whole skin&quot; is their motto.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209" /><i>Noon</i>.&mdash;Spoke to Singeri about the missionary reported to be coming:
+he seems to like the idea of being taught and opening up the country by
+way of the Nile. I told him that all the Arabs confirmed Mtesa's
+cruelties, and that his people were more to blame than he: it was guilt
+before God. In this he agreed fully, but said, &quot;What Arab was killed?&quot;
+meaning, if they did not suffer how can they complain?</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">6 A.M.&nbsp; Wet Bulb 55&deg;&nbsp;  Dry Bulb&nbsp; 57&deg; min. 55&deg;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">9 A.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  74&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  82&deg;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Noon.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 74&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  98&deg; (Now becomes too hot to march.)</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">3.30 P.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 75&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  90&deg;</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><i>10th July, 1872.</i></p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">6 A.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  59&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  65&deg; min. 55&deg;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Noon.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 67&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  77&deg; shady.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">3 P.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  69&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  81&deg; cloudy.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">5 P.M.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  65&deg;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  75&deg; cloudy.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><i>10th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;No great difficulty would be encountered in
+establishing a Christian Mission a hundred miles or so from the East
+Coast. The permission of the Sultan of Zanzibar would be necessary,
+because all the tribes of any intelligence claim relationship, or have
+relations with him; the Banyamwezi even call themselves his subjects,
+and so do others. His permission would be readily granted, if
+respectfully applied for through the English Consul. The Suaheli, with
+their present apathy on religious matters, would be no obstacle. Care to
+speak politely, and to show kindness to them, would not be lost labour
+in the general effect of the Mission on the country, but all discussion
+on the belief of the Moslems should be avoided; they know little about
+it. Emigrants from Muscat, Persia, and India, who at present possess
+neither influence nor wealth, would eagerly seize any formal or
+offensive denial of the authority of their Prophet to fan their own
+bigotry, and arouse that of the Suaheli. A few now assume an air of
+superiority in matters of worship, <a name="Page_210" id="Page_210" />and would fain take the place of
+Mullams or doctors of the law, by giving authoritative dicta as to the
+times of prayer; positions to be observed; lucky and unlucky days; using
+cabalistic signs; telling fortunes; finding from the Koran when an
+attack may be made on any enemy, &amp;c.; but this is done only in the field
+with trading parties. At Zanzibar, the regular Mullams supersede them.</p>
+
+<p>No objection would be made to teaching the natives of the country to
+read their own languages in the Roman character. No Arab has ever
+attempted to teach them the Arabic-Koran, they are called <i>guma</i>, hard,
+or difficult as to religion. This is not wonderful, since the Koran is
+never translated, and a very extraordinary desire for knowledge would be
+required to sustain a man in committing to memory pages and chapters of,
+to him, unmeaning gibberish. One only of all the native chiefs,
+Monyumgo, has sent his children to Zanzibar to be taught to read and
+write the Koran; and he is said to possess an unusual admiration of such
+civilization as he has seen among the Arabs. To the natives, the chief
+attention of the Mission should be directed. It would not be desirable,
+or advisable, to refuse explanation to others; but I have avoided giving
+offence to intelligent Arabs, who have pressed me, asking if I believed
+in Mohamad by saying, &quot;No I do not: I am a child of Jesus bin Miriam,&quot;
+avoiding anything offensive in my tone, and often adding that Mohamad
+found their forefathers bowing down to trees and stones, and did good to
+them by forbidding idolatry, and teaching the worship of the only One
+God. This, they all know, and it pleases them to have it recognised.</p>
+
+<p>It might be good policy to hire a respectable Arab to engage free
+porters, and conduct the Mission to the country chosen, and obtain
+permission from the chief to build temporary houses. If this Arab were
+well paid, it might pave the way for employing others to bring supplies
+of goods and stores not produced in the country, as tea, coffee, sugar.
+<a name="Page_211" id="Page_211" />The first porters had better all go back, save a couple or so, who have
+behaved especially well. Trust to the people among whom you live for
+general services, as bringing wood, water, cultivation, reaping, smith's
+work, carpenter's work, pottery, baskets, &amp;c. Educated free blacks from
+a distance are to be avoided: they are expensive, and are too much of
+gentlemen for your work. You may in a few months raise natives who will
+teach reading to others better than they can, and teach you also much
+that the liberated never know. A cloth and some beads occasionally will
+satisfy them, while neither the food, the wages, nor the work will
+please those who, being brought from a distance, naturally consider
+themselves missionaries. Slaves also have undergone a process which has
+spoiled them for life; though liberated young, everything of childhood
+and opening life possesses an indescribable charm. It is so with our own
+offspring, and nothing effaces the fairy scenes then printed on the
+memory. Some of my liberados eagerly bought green calabashes and
+tasteless squash, with fine fat beef, because this trash was their early
+food; and an ounce of meat never entered their mouths. It seems
+indispensable that each Mission should raise its own native agency. A
+couple of Europeans beginning, and carrying on a Mission without a staff
+of foreign attendants, implies coarse country fare, it is true, but this
+would be nothing to those who, at home amuse themselves with fastings,
+vigils, &amp;c. A great deal of power is thus lost in the Church. Fastings
+and vigils, without a special object in view, are time run to waste.
+They are made to minister to a sort of self-gratification, instead of
+being turned to account for the good of others. They are like groaning
+in sickness. Some people amuse themselves when ill with continuous
+moaning. The forty days of Lent might be annually spent in visiting
+adjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable hunger and thirst with a good
+grace. Considering the greatness of the object <a name="Page_212" id="Page_212" />to be attained, men
+might go without sugar, coffee, tea, &amp;c. I went from September 1866 to
+December 1868 without either. A trader, at Casembe's, gave me a dish
+cooked with honey, and it nauseated from its horrible sweetness, but at
+100 miles inland, supplies could be easily obtained.</p>
+
+<p>The expenses need not be large. Intelligent Arabs inform me that, in
+going from Zanzibar to Casembe's, only 3000 dollars' worth are required
+by a trader, say between 600<i>l.</i> or 700<i>l.</i>, and he may be away three or
+more years; paying his way, giving presents to the chiefs, and filling
+200 or 300 mouths. He has paid for, say fifty muskets, ammunition,
+flints, and may return with 4000 lbs. of ivory, and a number of slaves
+for sale; all at an outlay of 600<i>l.</i> or 700<i>l.</i> With the experience I
+have gained now, I could do all I shall do in this expedition for a like
+sum, or at least for 1000<i>l.</i> less than it will actually cost me.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Two men come from Syde bin Habib report fighting as
+going on at discreet distances against Mirambo.</p>
+
+<p>Sheikh But, son of Mohamad bin Saleh, is found guilty of stealing a tusk
+of 2-1/2 frasilahs from the Lewal&eacute;. He has gone in disgrace to fight
+Mirambo: his father is disconsolate, naturally. Lewal&eacute; has been
+merciful.</p>
+
+<p>When endeavouring to give some account of the slave-trade of East
+Africa, it was necessary to keep far within the truth, in order not to
+be thought guilty of exaggeration; but in sober seriousness the subject
+does not admit of exaggeration. To overdraw its evils is a simple
+impossibility. The sights I have seen, though common incidents of the
+traffic, are so nauseous that I always strive to drive them from memory.
+In the case of most disagreeable recollections I can succeed, in time,
+in consigning them to oblivion, but the slaving scenes come back
+unbidden, and make me start up at dead of night horrified by their
+vividness. To some this may appear weak and unphilosophical, since it is
+alleged that the whole human race has passed <a name="Page_213" id="Page_213" />through the process of
+development. We may compare cannibalism to the stone age, and the times
+of slavery to the iron and bronze epochs&mdash;slavery is as natural a step
+in human development as from bronze to iron.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst speaking of the stone age I may add that in Africa I have never
+been fortunate enough to find one flint arrowhead or any other flint
+implement, though I had my eyes about me as diligently as any of my
+neighbours. No roads are made; no lands levelled; no drains digged; no
+quarries worked, nor any of the changes made on the earth's surface that
+might reveal fragments of the primitive manufacture of stone. Yet but
+little could be inferred from the negative evidence, were it not
+accompanied by the fact that flint does not exist in any part south of
+the equator. Quartz might have been used, but no remains exist, except
+the half-worn millstones, and stones about the size of oranges, used for
+chipping and making rough the nether millstone. Glazed pipes and
+earthenware used in smelting iron, show that iron was smelted in the
+remotest ages in Africa. These earthenware vessels, and fragments of
+others of a finer texture, were found in the delta of the Zambesi and in
+other parts in close association with fossil bones, which, on being
+touched by the tongue, showed as complete an absence of animal matter as
+the most ancient fossils known in Europe. They were the bones of
+animals, as hippopotami, water hogs, antelopes, crocodiles, identical
+with those now living in the country. These were the primitive fauna of
+Africa, and if vitrified iron from the prodigious number of broken
+smelting furnaces all over the country was known from the remotest
+times, the Africans seem to have had a start in the race, at a time when
+our progenitors were grubbing up flints to save a miserable existence by
+the game they might kill. Slave-trading seems to have been coeval with
+the knowledge of iron. The monuments of Egypt show that this curse has
+venerable antiquity. Some people say, &quot;If so ancient, why <a name="Page_214" id="Page_214" />try to stop
+an old established usage now?&quot; Well, some believe that the affliction
+that befel the most ancient of all the patriarchs, Job, was small-pox.
+Why then stop the ravages of this venerable disease in London and New
+York by vaccination?</p>
+
+<p>But no one expects any benevolent efforts from those who cavil and carp
+at efforts made by governments and peoples to heal the enormous open
+sore of the world. Some profess that they would rather give &quot;their mite&quot;
+for the degraded of our own countrymen than to &quot;niggers&quot;! Verily it is
+&quot;a mite,&quot; and they most often forget, and make a gift of it to
+themselves. It is almost an axiom that those who do most for the heathen
+abroad are most liberal for the heathen at home. It is to this class we
+turn with hope. With others arguments are useless, and the only answer I
+care to give is the remark of an English sailor, who, on seeing
+slave-traders actually at their occupation, said to his companion,
+&quot;Shiver my timbers, mate, if the devil don't catch these fellows, we
+might as well have no devil at all.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In conversing with a prince at Johanna, one of the Comoro islands lying
+off the north end of Madagascar, he took occasion to extol the wisdom of
+the Arabs in keeping strict watch over their wives. On suggesting that
+their extreme jealousy made them more like jailers than friends of their
+wives, or, indeed, that they thus reduced themselves to the level of the
+inferior animals, and each was like the bull of a herd and not like a
+reasonable man&mdash;&quot;fuguswa&quot;&mdash;and that they gave themselves a vast deal of
+trouble for very small profit; he asserted that the jealousy was
+reasonable because all women were bad, they could not avoid going
+astray. And on remarking that this might be the case with Arab women,
+but certainly did not apply to English women, for though a number were
+untrustworthy, the majority deserved all the confidence their husbands
+could place in them, he reiterated that women were universally <a name="Page_215" id="Page_215" />bad. He
+did not believe that women ever would be good; and the English allowing
+their wives to gad about with faces uncovered, only showed their
+weakness, ignorance, and unwisdom.</p>
+
+<p>The tendency and spirit of the age are more and more towards the
+undertaking of industrial enterprises of such magnitude and skill as to
+require the capital of the world for their support and execution&mdash;as the
+Pacific Railroad, Suez Canal, Mont Cenis Tunnel, and railways in India
+and Western Asia, Euphrates Railroad, &amp;c. The extension and use of
+railroads, steamships, telegraphs, break down nationalities and bring
+peoples geographically remote into close connection commercially and
+politically. They make the world one, and capital, like water, tends to
+a common level.</p>
+
+<p>[Geologists will be glad to find that the Doctor took pains to arrange
+his observations at this time in the following form.]</p>
+
+<p>A really enormous area of South Central Africa is covered with volcanic
+rocks, in which are imbedded angular fragments of older strata, possibly
+sandstone, converted into schist, which, though carried along in the
+molten mass, still retain impressions of plants of a low order, probably
+the lowest&mdash;Silurian&mdash;and distinct ripple marks and raindrops in which
+no animal markings have yet been observed. The fewness of the organic
+remains observed is owing to the fact that here no quarries are worked,
+no roads are made, and as we advance north the rank vegetation covers up
+everything. The only stone buildings in the country north of the Cape
+colony are the church and mission houses at Kuruman. In the walls there
+the fragments, with impressions of fossil leaves, have been broken
+through in the matrix, once a molten mass of lava. The <a name="Page_216" id="Page_216" />area which this
+basalt covers extends from near the Vaal River in the south, to a point
+some sixty miles beyond the Victoria Falls, and the average breadth is
+about 150 miles. The space is at least 100,000 square miles. Sandstone
+rocks stand up in it at various points like islands, but all are
+metamorphosed, and branches have flowed off from the igneous sea into
+valleys and defiles, and one can easily trace the hardening process of
+the fire as less and less, till at the outer end of the stream the rocks
+are merely hardened. These branches equal in size all the rocks and
+hills that stand like islands, so that we are justified in assuming the
+area as at least 100,000 square miles of this basaltic sea.</p>
+
+<p>The molten mass seems to have flowed over in successive waves, and the
+top of each wave was covered with a dark vitreous scum carrying scori&aelig;
+with angular fragments. This scum marks each successive overflow, as a
+stratum from twelve to eighteen inches or more in thickness. In one part
+sixty-two strata are revealed, but at the Victoria Falls (which are
+simply a rent) the basaltic rock is stratified as far as our eyes could
+see down the depth of 310 feet. This extensive sea of lava was probably
+sub-aerial, because bubbles often appear as coming out of the rock into
+the vitreous scum on the surface of each wave: in some cases they have
+broken and left circular rings with raised edges, peculiar to any
+boiling viscous fluid. In many cases they have cooled as round pustules,
+as if a bullet were enclosed; on breaking them the internal surface is
+covered with a crop of beautiful crystals of silver with their heads all
+directed to the centre of the bubble, which otherwise is empty.</p>
+
+<p>These bubbles in stone may be observed in the bed of the Kuruman River,
+eight or ten miles north of the village; and the mountain called
+&quot;Amhan,&quot; west-north-west of the village, has all the appearance of
+having been an orifice through which the basalt boiled up as water or
+mud does in a geyser.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217" />The black basaltic mountains on the east of the Bamangwato, formerly
+called the Bakaa, furnish further evidence of the igneous eruptions
+being sub-aerial, for the basalt itself is columnar at many points, and
+at other points the tops of the huge crystals appear in groups, and the
+apices not flattened, as would have been the case had they been
+developed under the enormous pressure of an ocean. A few miles on their
+south a hot salt fountain boils forth and tells of interior heat.
+Another, far to the south-east, and of fresh water, tells the same tale.</p>
+
+<p>Subsequently to the period of gigantic volcanic action, the outflow of
+fresh lime-water from the bowels of the earth seems to have been
+extremely large. The land now so dry that one might wander in various
+directions (especially westwards, to the Kalahari), and perish for lack
+of the precious fluid as certainly as if he were in the interior of
+Australia, was once bisected in all directions by flowing streams and
+great rivers, whose course was mainly to the south. These river beds are
+still called by the natives &quot;<i>melapo</i>&quot; in the south, but in the north
+&quot;<i>wadys</i>,&quot; both words meaning the same thing, &quot;river beds in which no
+water ever now flows.&quot; To feed these a vast number of gushing fountains
+poured forth for ages a perennial supply. When the eye of the fountain
+is seen it is an oval or oblong orifice, the lower portion distinctly
+water worn, and there, by diminished size, showing that as ages elapsed
+the smaller water supply had a manifestly lesser erosive power. In the
+sides of the mountain Amhan, already mentioned, good specimens of these
+water-worn orifices still exist, and are inhabited by swarms of bees,
+whose hives are quite protected from robbers by the hardness of the
+basaltic rocks. The points on which the streams of water fell are
+hollowed by its action, and the space around which the water splashed is
+covered by calcareous tufa, deposited there by the evaporation of the
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>Another good specimen of the ancient fountains is in a <a name="Page_218" id="Page_218" />cave near
+Kolobeng, called &quot;<i>Lep&eacute;lol&eacute;</i>,&quot; a word by which the natives there
+sometimes designate the sea. The wearing power of the primeval waters is
+here easily traced in two branches&mdash;the upper or more ancient ending in
+the characteristic oval orifice, in which I deposited a Father Mathew's
+leaden temperance token: the lower branch is much the largest, as that
+by which the greatest amount of water flowed for a much longer period
+than the other. The cave Lep&eacute;lol&eacute; was believed to be haunted, and no one
+dared to enter till I explored it as a relief from more serious labour.
+The entrance is some eight or more feet high, and five or six wide, in
+reddish grey sandstone rock, containing in its substance banks of well
+rounded shingle. The whole range, with many of the adjacent hills on the
+south, bear evidence of the scorching to which the contiguity of the
+lava subjected them. In the hardening process the silica was sometimes
+sweated out of this rock, and it exists now as pretty efflorescences of
+well-shaped crystals. But not only does this range, which stands eight
+or ten miles north of Kolobeng, exhibit the effects of igneous action,
+it shows on its eastern slope the effects of flowing water, in a large
+pot-hole called L&ouml;e, which has the reputation of having given exit to all
+the animals in South Africa, and also to the first progenitors of the
+whole Bechuana race. Their footsteps attest the truth of this belief. I
+was profane enough to be sceptical, because the large footstep of the
+first man Matsieng was directed as if going into instead of out of this
+famous pot-hole. Other huge pot-holes are met with all over the country,
+and at heights on the slopes of the mountains far above the levels of
+the ancient rivers.</p>
+
+<p>Many fountains rose in the courses of the ancient river beds, and the
+outflow was always in the direction of the current of the parent stream.
+Many of these ancient fountains still contain water, and form the stages
+on a journey, but the primitive waters seem generally to have been laden
+with lime in <a name="Page_219" id="Page_219" />solution: this lime was deposited in vast lakes, which are
+now covered with calcareous tufa. One enormous fresh-water lake, in
+which probably sported the Dyconodon, was let off when the remarkable
+rent was made in the basalt which now constitutes the Victoria Falls.
+Another seems to have gone to the sea when a similar fissure was made at
+the falls of the Orange River. It is in this calcareous tufa alone that
+fossil animal remains have yet been found. There are no marine
+limestones except in friths which the elevation of the west and east
+coasts have placed far inland in the Coanza and Somauli country, and
+these contain the same shells as now live in the adjacent seas.</p>
+
+<p>Antecedently to the river system, which seems to have been a great
+southern Nile flowing from the sources of the Zambesi away south to the
+Orange River, there existed a state of fluvial action of greater
+activity than any we see now: it produced prodigious beds of
+well-rounded shingle and gravel. It is impossible to form an idea of
+their extent. The Loangwa flows through the bed of an ancient lake,
+whose banks are sixty feet thick, of well-rounded shingle. The Zambesi
+flows above the Kebrabasa, through great beds of the same formation, and
+generally they are of hard crystalline rocks; and it is impossible to
+conjecture what the condition of the country was when the large
+pot-holes were formed up the hillsides, and the prodigious attrition
+that rounded the shingle was going on. The land does not seem to have
+been submerged, because marine limestones (save in the exceptional cases
+noted) are wanting; and torrents cutting across the ancient river beds
+reveal fresh-water shells identical with those that now inhabit its
+fresh waters. The calcareous tufa seems to be the most recent rock
+formed. At the point of junction of the great southern prehistoric Nile
+with an ancient fresh-water lake near Buchap, and a few miles from
+Likatlong, a mound was formed in an eddy caused by some conical lias
+towards the east bank of this rent within its bed, and the dead animals
+were floated <a name="Page_220" id="Page_220" />into the eddy and sank; their bones crop out of the white
+tufa, and they are so well preserved that even the black tartar on
+buffalo and zebra's teeth remain: they are of the present species of
+animals that now inhabit Africa. This is the only case of fossils of
+these animals being found <i>in situ</i>. In 1855 I observed similar fossils
+in banks of gravel in transitu all down the Zambesi above Kebrabasa; and
+about 1862 a bed of gravel was found in the delta with many of the same
+fossils that had come to rest in the great deposit of that river, but
+where the Zambesi digs them out is not known. In its course below the
+Victoria Falls I observed tufaceous rocks: these must contain the bones,
+for were they carried away from the great tufa Lake bottom of Sesh&eacute;k&eacute;,
+down the Victoria Falls, they would all be ground into fine silt. The
+bones in the river and in the delta were all associated with pieces of
+coarse pottery, exactly the same as the natives make and use at the
+present day: with it we found fragments of a fine grain, only
+occasionally seen among Africans, and closely resembling ancient
+cinerary urns: none were better baked than is customary in the country
+now. The most ancient relics are deeply worn granite, mica-schist, and
+sandstone millstones; the balls used for chipping and roughing them, of
+about the shape and size of an orange, are found lying near them. No
+stone weapons or tools ever met my eyes, though I was anxious to find
+them, and looked carefully over every ancient village we came to for
+many years. There is no flint to make celts, but quartz and rocks having
+a slaty cleavage are abundant. It is only for the finer work that they
+use iron tongs, hammers, and anvils and with these they turn out work
+which makes English blacksmiths declare Africans never did. They are
+very careful of their tools: indeed, the very opposites to the flint
+implement men, who seem sometimes to have made celts just for the
+pleasure of throwing them away: even the Romans did not seem to know the
+value of their money.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient Africans seem to have been at least as <a name="Page_221" id="Page_221" />early as the
+Asiatics in the art of taming elephants. The Egyptian monuments show
+them bringing tame elephants and lions into Egypt; and very ancient
+sculptures show the real African species, which the artist must have
+seen. They refused to sell elephants, which cost them months of hard
+labour to catch and tame, to a Greek commander of Egyptian troops for a
+few brass pots: they were quite right. Two or three tons of fine fat
+butcher-meat were far better than the price, seeing their wives could
+make any number of cooking pots for nothing.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Reported to-day that twenty wounded men have been
+brought into M'futu from the field of fighting. About 2000 are said to
+be engaged on the Arab side, and the side of Mirambo would seem to be
+strong, but the assailants have the disadvantage of firing against a
+stockade, and are unprotected, except by ant-hills, bushes, and ditches
+in the field. I saw the first kites to-day: one had spots of white
+feathers on the body below, as if it were a young one&mdash;probably come
+from the north.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Went over to Sultan bin Ali yesterday. Very kind, as
+usual; he gave me guavas and a melon&mdash;called &quot;matanga.&quot; It is reported
+that one of Mirambo's chief men, Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealed
+holes, which acted like Bruce's &quot;craw-taes&quot; at Bannockburn, and wounded
+several, probably the twenty reported. This has induced the Arabs to
+send for a cannon they have, with which to batter Mirambo at a distance.
+The gun is borne past us this morning: a brass 7-pounder, dated 1679.
+Carried by the Portuguese Commander-in-Chief to China 1679, or 193 years
+ago&mdash;and now to beat Mirambo, by Arabs who have very little interest in
+the war.</p>
+
+<p>Some of his people, out prowling two days ago, killed a slave. The war
+is not so near an end as many hoped.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>[Mtesa's people on their way back to Uganda were stuck <a name="Page_222" id="Page_222" />fast at
+Unyanyemb&eacute; the whole of this time: it does not appear at all who the
+missionary was to whom he refers.]</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Lewal&eacute; sends off the Baganda in a great hurry, after detaining them for
+six months or more till the war ended, and he now gets pagazi of
+Banyamwezi for them. This haste (though war is not ended) is probably
+because Lewal&eacute; has heard of a missionary through me.</p>
+
+<p>Mirambo fires now from inside the stockade alone.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Visited Salim bin Seff, and was very hospitably
+entertained. He was disappointed that I could not eat largely. They live
+very comfortably: grow wheat, whilst flour and fruits grace their board.
+Salim says that goat's flesh at Zanzibar is better than beef, but here
+beef is better than goat's flesh. He is a stout, jolly fellow.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;High cold winds prevail. Temperature, 6 A.M., 57&deg;;
+noon, on the ground, 122&deg;. It may be higher, but I am afraid to risk the
+thermometer, which is graduated to 140&deg; only.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Bought two milch cows (from a Motusi), which, with
+their calves, were 17 dotis or 34 fathoms. The Baganda are packing up to
+leave for home. They take a good deal of brandy and gin for Mtesa from
+the Moslems. Temperature at noon, 96&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>Another nest of wagtails flown. They eat bread crumbs. The whydahs are
+busy pairing. Lewal&eacute; returns to-day from M'futu on his own private
+business at Kwikuru. The success of the war is a minor consideration
+with all. I wish my men would come, and let me off from this weary
+waiting.</p>
+
+<p>Some philosophising is curious. It represents our Maker forming the
+machine of the universe: setting it a-going, and able to do nothing more
+outside certain of His own laws. He, as it were, laid the egg of the
+whole, and, like an ostrich, left it to be hatched by the sun. We can
+control laws, but He cannot! A fire set to this house would con<a name="Page_223" id="Page_223" />sume it,
+but we can throw on water and consume the fire. We control the elements,
+fire and water: is He debarred from doing the same, and more, who has
+infinite wisdom and knowledge? He surely is greater than His own laws.
+Civilization is only what has been done with natural laws. Some foolish
+speculations in morals resemble the idea of a Muganda, who said last
+night, that if Mtesa didn't kill people now and then, his subjects would
+suppose that he was dead!</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd July, 1872.</i>&mdash;The departure of the Baganda is countermanded, for
+fear of Mirambo capturing their gunpowder.</p>
+
+<p>Lewal&eacute; interdicts them from going; he says, &quot;You may go, but leave all
+the gunpowder here, because Mirambo will follow and take it all to fight
+with us.&quot; This is an afterthought, for he hurried them to go off. A few
+will go and take the news and some goods to Mtesa, and probably a lot of
+Lewal&eacute;'s goods to trade at Karagw&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>The Baganda are angry, for now their cattle and much of their property
+are expended here; but they say, &quot;We are strangers, and what can we do
+but submit?&quot; The Banyamwesi carriers would all have run away on the
+least appearance of danger. No troops are sent by Seyed Burghash, though
+they were confidently reported long ago. All trade is at a standstill.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;The Bagoh&eacute; retire from the war. This month is
+unlucky. I visited Lewal&eacute; and Nkasiwa, putting a blister on the latter,
+for paralytic arm, to please him. Lewal&eacute; says that a general flight from
+the war has taken place. The excuse is hunger.</p>
+
+<p>He confirms the great damage done by a cyclone at Zanzibar to shipping,
+houses, cocoa-nut palms, mango-trees, and clove-trees, also houses and
+dhows, five days after Burghash returned. Sofeu volunteers to go with
+us, because Mohamad Bogharib never gave him anything, and Bwana Mohinna
+has asked him to go with him. I have <a name="Page_224" id="Page_224" />accepted his offer, and will
+explain to Mohamad, when I see him, that this is what he promised me in
+the way of giving men, but never performed.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;At dawn a loud rumbling in the east as if of
+thunder, possibly a slight earthquake; no thunder-clouds visible.</p>
+
+<p>Bin Nassib came last night and visited me before going home to his own
+house; a tall, brown, polite Arab. He says that he lately received a
+packet for Mr. Stanley from the American Consul, sealed in tin, and sent
+it back: this is the eleventh that came to Stanley. A party of native
+traders who went with the Baganda were attacked by Mirambo's people, and
+driven back with the loss of all their goods and one killed. The
+fugitives returned this morning sorely downcast. A party of twenty-three
+loads left for Karagw&eacute; a few days ago, and the leader alone has
+returned; he does not know more than that one was killed. Another was
+slain on this side of M'futu by Mirambo's people yesterday, the country
+thus is still in a terribly disturbed state. Sheikh bin Nassib says that
+the Arabs have rooted out fifty-two headmen who were Mirambo's allies.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;To Nkasiwa; blistered him, as the first relieved the
+pain and pleased him greatly; hope he may derive benefit.</p>
+
+<p>Cold east winds, and clouded thickly over all the sky.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Making flour of rice for the journey. Visited Sheikh
+bin Nassib, who has a severe attack of fever; he cannot avoid going to
+the war. He bought a donkey with the tusk he stole from Lewal&eacute;, and it
+died yesterday; now Lewal&eacute; says, &quot;Give me back my tusk;&quot; and the Arab
+replies, &quot;Give me back my donkey.&quot; The father must pay, but his son's
+character is lost as well as the donkey. Bin Nassib gave me a present of
+wheaten bread and cakes.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th July, 1872.</i>&mdash;Weary waiting this, and the best time for travelling
+passes over unused. High winds from the east <a name="Page_225" id="Page_225" />every day bring cold, and,
+to the thinly-clad Arabs, fever. Bin Omari called: goes to Katanga with
+another man's goods to trade there.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st July, 1872.</i>&mdash;We heard yesterday from Sahib bin Nassib that the
+caravan of his brother Kisessa was at a spot in Ugogo, twelve days off.
+My party had gone by another route. Thankful for even this in my
+wearisome waiting.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX" /><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226" />CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Short years in Baganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. Higher
+    mountains. Large bay.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><i>1st August, 1872.</i>&mdash;A large party of Baganda have come to see what is
+stopping the way to Mtesa, about ten headmen and their followers; but
+they were told by an Arab in Usui that the war with Mirambo was over.
+About seventy of them come on here to-morrow, only to be despatched back
+to fetch all the Baganda in Usui, to aid in fighting Mirambo. It is
+proposed to take a stockade near the central one, and therein build a
+battery for the cannon, which seems a wise measure. These arrivals are a
+poor, slave-looking people, clad in bark-cloth, &quot;Mbuzu,&quot; and having
+shields with a boss in the centre, round, and about the size of the
+ancient Highlanders' targe, but made of reeds. The Baganda already here
+said that most of the new-comers were slaves, and would be sold for
+cloths. Extolling the size of Mtesa's country, they say it would take a
+year to go across it. When I joked them about it, they explained that a
+year meant five months, three of rain, two of dry, then rain again. Went
+over to apply medicine to Nkasiwa's neck to heal the <a name="Page_227" id="Page_227" />outside; the
+inside is benefited somewhat, but the power will probably remain
+incomplete, as it now is.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Visited Salem bin Seff, who is ill of fever. They
+are hospitable men. Called on Sultan bin Ali and home. It is he who
+effected the flight of all the Baganda pagazi, by giving ten strings of
+beads to Motusi to go and spread a panic among them by night; all
+bolted.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Wearisome waiting, and the sun is now rainy at
+mid-day, and will become hotter right on to the hot season in November,
+but this delay may be all for the best.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Visited Nkasiwa, and recommended shampooing the
+disabled limbs with oil or flour. He says that the pain is removed. More
+Baganda have come to Kwihara, and will be used for the Mirambo war.</p>
+
+<p>In many parts one is struck by the fact of the children having so few
+games. Life is a serious business, and amusement is derived from
+imitating the vocations of the parents&mdash;hut building, making little
+gardens, bows and arrows, shields and spears. Elsewhere boys are very
+ingenious little fellows, and have several games; they also shoot birds
+with bows, and teach captured linnets to sing. They are expert in making
+guns and traps for small birds, and in making and using bird-lime. They
+make play guns of reed, which go off with a trigger and spring, with a
+cloud of ashes for smoke. Sometimes they make double-barrelled guns of
+clay, and have cotton-fluff as smoke. The boys shoot locusts with small
+toy guns very cleverly. A couple of rufous, brown-headed, and dirty
+speckle-breasted swallows appeared to-day for the first time this
+season, and lighted on the ground. This is the kind that builds here in
+houses, and as far south as Shupanga, on the Zambesi, and at Kuraman.
+Sun-birds visit a mass of spiders' web to-day; they pick out the young
+spiders. Nectar is but part of their food. The insects in or at the
+nectar could not be separated, and hence have been <a name="Page_228" id="Page_228" />made an essential
+part of their diet. On closer inspection, however, I see that whilst
+seeming to pick out young spiders&mdash;and they probably do so&mdash;they end in
+detaching the outer coating of spiders' web from the inner stiff paper
+web, in order to make a nest between the two. The outer part is a thin
+coating of loose threads: the inner is tough paper, impervious web, just
+like that which forms the wasps' hive, but stronger. The hen brings fine
+fibres and places them round a hole 1-1/2 inch in diameter, then works
+herself in between the two webs and brings cotton to line the inside
+formed by her body.</p>
+
+<p>&mdash;What is the atonement of Christ? It is Himself: it is the inherent
+and everlasting mercy of God made apparent to human eyes and ears. The
+everlasting love was disclosed by our Lord's life and death. It showed
+that God forgives, because He loves to forgive. He works by smiles if
+possible, if not by frowns; pain is only a means of enforcing love.</p>
+
+<p>If we speak of strength, lo! He is strong. The Almighty; the Over Power;
+the Mind of the Universe. The heart thrills at the idea of His
+greatness.</p>
+
+<p>&mdash;All the great among men have been remarkable at once for the grasp
+and minuteness of their knowledge. Great astronomers seem to know every
+iota of the Knowable. The Great Duke, when at the head of armies, could
+give all the particulars to be observed in a cavalry charge, and took
+care to have food ready for all his troops. Men think that greatness
+consists in lofty indifference to all trivial things. The Grand Llama,
+sitting in immovable contemplation of nothing, is a good example of what
+a human mind would regard as majesty; but the Gospels reveal Jesus, the
+manifestation of the blessed God over all as minute in His care of all.
+He exercises a vigilance more constant, complete, and comprehensive,
+every hour and every minute, over each of His people than their utmost
+self<a name="Page_229" id="Page_229" />love could ever attain. His tender love is more exquisite than a
+mother's heart can feel.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Wagtails begin to discard their young, which feed
+themselves. I can think of nothing but &quot;when will these men come?&quot; Sixty
+days was the period named, now it is eighty-four. It may be all for the
+best, in the good Providence of the Most High.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;I do most devoutly thank the Lord for His goodness
+in bringing my men near to this. Three came to-day, and how thankful I
+am I cannot express. It is well&mdash;the men who went with Mr. Stanley came
+again to me. &quot;Bless the Lord, my soul, and all that is within me, bless
+His holy name.&quot; Amen.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Sent back the three men who came from the Safari,
+with 4 dotis and 3 lbs. of powder. Called on the Lewal&eacute; to give the news
+as a bit of politeness; found that the old chief Nksiwa had been bumped
+by an ox, and a bruise on the ribs may be serious at his age: this is
+another delay from the war. It is only half-heartedly that anyone goes.</p>
+
+<p>[At last this trying suspense was put an end to by the arrival of a
+troop of fifty-seven men and boys, made up of porters hired by Mr.
+Stanley on the coast, and some more Nassick pupils sent from Bombay to
+join Lieut. Dawson. We find the names of John and Jacob Wainwright
+amongst the latter on Mr. Stanley's list.</p>
+
+<p>Before we incorporate these new recruits on the muster-roll of Dr.
+Livingstone's servants, it seems right to point to five names which
+alone represented at this time the list of his original followers; these
+were Susi, Chuma, and Amoda, who joined him in 1864 on the Zambesi, that
+is eight years previously, and Mabruki and Gardner, Nassick boys hired
+in 1866. We shall see that the new comers by degrees became accustomed
+to the hardships of travel, and shared <a name="Page_230" id="Page_230" />with the old servants all the
+danger of the last heroic march home. Nor must we forget that it was to
+the intelligence and superior education of Jacob Wainwright (whom we now
+meet with for the first time) that we were indebted for the earliest
+account of the eventful eighteen months during which he was attached to
+the party.</p>
+
+<p>And now all is pounding, packing, bargaining, weighing, and disputing
+amongst the porters. Amidst the inseparable difficulties of an African
+start, one thankful heart gathers, comfort and courage:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p><i>15th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;The men came yesterday (14th), having been
+seventy-four days from Bagamoio. Most thankful to the Giver of all good
+I am. I have to give them a rest of a few days, and then start.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;An earthquake&mdash;&quot;Kiti-ki-sha!&quot;&mdash;about 7.0 P.M.
+shook me in my katanda with quick vibrations. They gradually became
+fainter: it lasted some 50 seconds, and was observed by many.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Preparing things.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Fando to be avoided as extortionate. Went to bid
+adieu to Sultan bin Ali, and left goods with him for the return journey,
+and many cartridges full and empty, nails for boat, two iron pillars,
+&amp;c.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23" /><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>19th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Waiting for pagazi. Sultan bin Ali called; is
+going off to M'futu.<a name="Page_231" id="Page_231" /><i>20th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Weighed all the loads again,
+and gave an equal load of 50 lbs. to each, and half loads to the
+Nassickers. Mabruki Speke is left at Taborah with Sultan bin Ali. He has
+long been sick, and is unable to go with us.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Gave people an ox, and to a discarded wife a
+cloth, to avoid exposure by her husband stripping her. She is somebody's
+child!</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Sunday. All ready, but ten pagazi lacking.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Cannot get pagasi. Most are sent off to the war.</p>
+
+<p>[At last the start took place. It is necessary to mention that Dr.
+Livingstone's plan in all his travels was to make one short stage the
+first day, and generally late in the afternoon. This, although nothing
+in point of distance, acted like the drill-sergeant's &quot;Attention!&quot; The
+next morning everyone was ready for the road, clear of the town,
+unencumbered with parting words, and by those parting pipes, of terrible
+memory to all hurrying Englishmen in Africa!]</p>
+
+<p><i>25th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Started and went one hour to village of Manga or
+Yuba by a granite ridge; the weather clear, and a fine breeze from the
+east refreshes. It is important to give short marches at first. Marched
+1-1/4 hour.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Two Nassickers lost a cow out of ten head of
+cattle. Marched to Borna of Mayonda. Sent back five men to look after
+the cow. Cow not found: she was our best milker.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Started for Ebulua and Kasek&eacute;ra of Mamba. Cross
+torrent, now dry, and through forest to village of Ebulua; thence to
+village of Kasek&eacute;ra, 3-1/2 hours. Direction, S. by W.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;Reached Mayol&eacute; village in 2 hours and rested; S.
+and by W. Water is scarce in front. Through <a name="Page_232" id="Page_232" />flat forest to a
+marshy-looking piece of water, where we camp, after a march of 1-1/2
+hour; still S. by W.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;On through level forest without water. Trees
+present a dry, wintry aspect; grass dry, but some flowers shoot out, and
+fresh grass where the old growth has been burnt off.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th August, 1872.</i>&mdash;The two Nassickers lost all the cows yesterday,
+from sheer laziness. They were found a long way off, and one cow
+missing. Susi gave them ten cuts each with a switch. Engaging pagazi and
+rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st August, 1872.</i>&mdash;The Baganda boy Kassa was followed to Gunda, and I
+delivered him to his countrymen. He escaped from Mayol&eacute; village this
+morning, and came at 3 P.M., his clothes in rags by running through the
+forest eleven hours, say twenty-two miles, and is determined not to
+leave us. Pass Kisari's village, one and a half mile distant, and on to
+Penta or Phint&aacute; to sleep, through perfectly flat forest. 3 hours S. by
+W.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st September, 1872.</i>&mdash;The same flat forest to Chikulu, S. and by W., 4
+hours 25 m. Manyara called, and is going with us to-morrow. Jangiang&eacute;
+presented a leg of Kongolo or Taghets&eacute;, having a bunch of white hair
+beneath the orbital sinus. Bought food and served out rations to the men
+for ten days, as water is scarce, and but little food can be obtained at
+the villages. The country is very dry and wintry-looking, but flowers
+shoot out. First clouds all over to-day. It is hot now. A flock of small
+swallows now appears: they seem tailless and with white bellies.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd September, 1872.</i>&mdash;The people are preparing their ten days' food.
+Two pagazi ran away with 24 dotis of the men's calico. Sent after them,
+but with small hopes of capturing them.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Unsuccessful search.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Leave Chikulu's, and pass a large puff-adder in
+the way. A single blow on the head killed it, so that it did not stir.
+About 3 feet long, and as thick as a <a name="Page_233" id="Page_233" />man's arm, a short tail, and flat
+broad head. The men say this is a very good sign for our journey, though
+it would have been a bad sign, and suffering and death, had one trodden
+on it. Come to Liwan&eacute;; large tree and waters. S.S.W. 4-1/2 hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;A long hot tramp to Manyara's. He is a kind old
+man. Many of the men very tired and sick. S.S.W. 5-3/4 hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rest the caravan, as we shall have to make
+forced marches on account of tsetse fly.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Obliged to remain, as several are ill with
+fever.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;On to N'gombo nullah. Very hot and people ill.
+Tsetse. A poor woman of Ujiji followed one of Stanley's men to the
+coast. He cast her off here, and she was taken by another; but her
+temper seems too excitable. She set fire to her hut by accident, and in
+the excitement quarrelled all round; she is a somebody's bairn
+nevertheless, a tall, strapping young woman, she must have been the
+pride of her parents.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Telek&eacute;za<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24" /><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> at broad part of the nullah, then
+went on two hours and passed the night in the forest.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;On to Mw&eacute;ras, and spent one night there by a
+pool in the forest. Village two miles off.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;On 8-1/2 hours to Telek&eacute;za. Sun very hot, and
+marching fatiguing to all.</p>
+
+<p>Majwara has an insect in the aqueous chamber of his eye. It moves about
+and is painful.</p>
+
+<p>We found that an old path from Mwaro has water, and must go early
+to-morrow morning, and so avoid the roundabout by Morefu. We shall thus
+save two days, which in this hot weather is much for us. We hear that
+Simba has gone to fight with Fipa. Two Banyamwezi volunteer. <a name="Page_234" id="Page_234" /><i>12th
+September, 1872.</i>&mdash;We went by this water till 2 P.M., then made a march,
+and to-morrow get to villages. Got a buffalo and remain overnight. Water
+is in h&aelig;matite. I engaged four pagazi here, named Motepatonz&eacute;, Nsakusi,
+Muanamazungu, and Mayombo.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;On to near range of hills. Much large game
+here. Ill.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Climbed over range about 200 feet high; then on
+westward to stockaded villages of Kamirambo. His land begins at the
+M'toni.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;To Metambo River: 1-1/4 broad, and marshy. Here
+begins the land of M&eacute;r&eacute;ra. Through forest with many strychnus trees,
+3-1/4 hours, and arrive at M&eacute;r&eacute;ra's.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Remain at M&eacute;r&eacute;ra's to prepare food.</p>
+
+<p>[There is a significant entry here: the old enemy was upon him. It would
+seem that his peculiar liability during these travels to one prostrating
+form of disease was now redoubled. The men speak of few periods of even
+comparative health from this date.]</p>
+
+<p><i>19th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Ditto, ditto, because I am ill with bowels,
+having eaten nothing for eight days. Simba wants us to pass by his
+village, and not by the straight path.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Went to Simba's; 3-1/2 hours. About north-west.
+Simba sent a handsome present of food, a goat, eggs, and a fowl, beans,
+split rice, dura, and sesame. I gave him three dotis of superior cloth.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rest here, as the complaint does not yield to
+medicine or time; but I begin to eat now, which is a favourable symptom.
+Under a lofty tree at Simba's, a kite, the common brown one, had two
+pure white eggs in its nest, larger than a fowl's, and very spherical.
+The Banyamwesi women are in general very coarse, not a beautiful woman
+amongst them, as is so common among the Batusi; squat, thick-set
+figures, and features too; a race of pagazi. <a name="Page_235" id="Page_235" />On coming inland from
+sea-coast, the tradition says, they cut the end of a cone shell, so as
+to make it a little of the half-moon shape; this is their chief
+ornament. They are generally respectful in deportment, but not very
+generous; they have learned the Arab adage, &quot;Nothing for nothing,&quot; and
+are keen slave-traders. The gingerbread palm of Speke is the <i>Hyphene</i>;
+the Borassus has a large seed, very like the Coco-de-mer of the
+Seychelle Islands, in being double, but it is very small compared to it.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Preparing food, and one man pretends inability
+to walk; send for some pagazi to carry loads of those who carry him.
+Simba sends copious libations of pombe.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd September, 1872.</i>&mdash;The pagazi, after demanding enormous pay,
+walked off. We went on along rocky banks of a stream, and, crossing it,
+camped, because the next water is far off.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Recovering and thankful, but weak; cross broad
+sedgy stream, and so on to Boma Misonghi, W. and by S.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Got a buffalo and M'jur&eacute;, and remain to eat
+them. I am getting better slowly. The M'jur&eacute;, or water hog, was all
+eaten by hy&aelig;nas during night; but the buffalo is safe.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Through forest, along the side of a sedgy
+valley. Cross its head water, which has rust of iron in it, then W.
+and by S. The forest has very much tsetse. Zebras calling loudly, and
+Senegal long claw in our camp at dawn, with its cry,
+&quot;O-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>27th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;On at dawn. No water expected, but we crossed
+three abundant supplies before we came to hill of our camp. Much game
+about here. Getting well again&mdash;thanks. About W. 3-3/4 hours. No people,
+or marks of them. Flowers sprouting in expectation of rains; much land
+burned off, but grass short yet.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;At two hills with mushroom-topped <a name="Page_236" id="Page_236" />trees on
+west side. Crossed a good stream 12 feet broad and knee deep.</p>
+
+<p>Buffaloes grazing. Many of the men sick. Whilst camping, a large musk
+cat broke forth among us and was killed. (Ya bude&mdash;musk). Musk cat
+(N'gawa), black with white stripes; from point of nose to tip of tail, 4
+feet; height at withers, 1 foot 6 inches.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Through much bamboo and low hills to M'pokwa
+ruins and river. The latter in a deep rent in alluvial soil. Very hot,
+and many sick in consequence. Sombala fish abundant. Course W.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th September, 1872.</i>&mdash;Away among low tree-covered hills of granite
+and sandstone. Found that Bangala had assaulted the village to which we
+went a few days ago, and all were fugitives. Our people found plenty of
+Batatas<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25" /><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> in the deserted gardens. A great help, for all were hungry.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st October, 1872, Friday</i>&mdash;On through much deserted cultivation in
+rich damp soil. Surrounded with low tree-covered ranges. We saw a few
+people, but all are in terror.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Obtained M'tama in abundance for brass wire, and
+remained to grind it. The people have been without any for some days,
+and now rejoice in plenty. A slight shower fell at 5 A.M., but not
+enough to lay the dust.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Southwards, and down a steep descent into a rich
+valley with much green maize in ear; people friendly; but it was but one
+hour's march, so we went on through hilly country S.W. Men firing off
+ammunition, had to be punished. We crossed the Katuma River in the
+bottom of a valley; it is 12 feet broad, and knee deep; camped in a
+forest. Farjella shot a fine buffalo. The weather disagreeably hot and
+sultry.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Over the same hilly country; the grass is burnt
+off, but the stalks are disagreeable. Came to a fine <a name="Page_237" id="Page_237" />valley with a large
+herd of zebras feeding quietly; pretty animals. We went only an hour and
+a half to-day, as one sick man is carried, and it is hot and trying for
+all. I feel it much internally, and am glad to more slowly.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Up and down mountains, very sore on legs and
+lungs. Trying to save donkey's strength I climbed and descended, and as
+soon as I mounted, off he set as hard as he could run, and he felt not
+the bridle; the saddle was loose, but I stuck on till we reached water
+in a bamboo hollow with spring.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;A long bamboo valley with giraffes in it. Range on
+our right stretches away from us, and that on the left dwindled down;
+all covered with bamboos, in tufts like other grasses; elephants eat
+them. Travelled W. and by S. 2-3/4 hours. Short marches on account of
+carrying one sick man.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Over fine park-like country, with large belts of
+bamboo and fine broad shady trees. Went westwards to the end of the
+left-hand range. Went four hours over a level forest with much h&aelig;matite.
+Trees large and open. Large game evidently abounds, and waters generally
+are not far apart. Our neighbour got a zebra, a rhinoceros, and two
+young elephants.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Came on early as sun is hot, and in two hours saw
+the Tanganyika from a gentle hill. The land is rough, with angular
+fragments of quartz; the rocks of mica schist are tilted up as if away
+from the Lake's longer axis. Some are upright, and some have basalt
+melted into the layers, and crystallized in irregular polygons. All are
+very tired, and in coming to a stockade we were refused admittance,
+because Malongwana had attacked them lately, and we might seize them
+when in this stronghold. Very true; so we sit ontside in the shade of a
+single palm (Borassus).</p>
+
+<p><i>9th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rest, because all are tired, and several <a name="Page_238" id="Page_238" />sick.
+This heat makes me useless, and constrains me to lie like a log.
+Inwardly I feel tired too. Jangeang&eacute; leaves us to-morrow, having found
+canoes going to Ujiji.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;People very tired, and it being moreover Sunday
+we rest. Gave each a keta of beads. Usowa chief Ponda.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Reach Kalema district after 2-3/4 hours over
+black mud all deeply cracked, and many deep torrents now dry. Kalema is
+a stockade. We see Tanganyika, but a range of low hills intervenes. A
+rumour of war to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;We wait till 2 P.M., and then make a forced march
+towards Fipa. The people cultivate but little, for fear of enemies; so
+we can buy few provisions. We left a broad valley with a sand river in
+it, where we have been two days, and climbed a range of hills parallel
+to Tanganyika, of mica schist and gneiss, tilted away from the Lake. We
+met a buffalo on the top of one ridge, it was shot into and lay down,
+but we lost it. Course S.W. to brink of Tanganyika water.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Our course went along the top of a range of hills
+lying parallel with the Lake. A great part of yesterday was on the same
+range. It is a thousand feet above the water, and is covered with trees
+rather scraggy. At sunset the red glare on the surface made the water
+look like a sea of reddish gold; it seemed so near that many went off to
+drink, but were three or four hours in doing so. One cannot see the
+other side on account of the smokes in the air, but this morning three
+capes jut out, and the last bearing S.E. from our camp seems to go near
+the other side. Very hot weather. To the town of Fipa to-morrow. Course
+about S. Though we suffer much from the heat by travelling at this
+season, we escape a vast number of running and often muddy rills, also
+muddy paths which would soon knock the donkey up. A milk-and-water sky
+portends rain. Tipo <a name="Page_239" id="Page_239" />Tipo is reported to be carrying it with a high hand
+in Nsama's country, Itawa, insisting that all the ivory must be brought
+as his tribute&mdash;the conqueror of Nsama. Our drum is the greatest object
+of curiosity we have to the Banyamwezi. A very great deal of cotton is
+cultivated all along the shores of Lake Tanganyika; it is the Pernambuco
+kind, with the seeds clinging together, but of good and long fibre, and
+the trees are left standing all the year to enable them to become large;
+grain and ground-nuts are cultivated between them. The cotton is
+manufactured into coarse cloth, which is the general clothing of all.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Crossed two deep gullies with sluggish water in
+them, and one surrounding an old stockade. Camp on a knoll, overlooking
+modern stockade and Tanganyika very pleasantly. Saw two beautiful
+sultanas with azure blue necks. We might have come here yesterday, but
+were too tired. Mukemb&eacute; land is ruled by chief Kariaria; village,
+Mokaria. Mount M'Pumbw&eacute; goes into the Lake. N'Tambw&eacute; Mount; village,
+Kafumfw&eacute;. Kapufi is the chief of Fipa.</p>
+
+<p>Noon, and about fifty feet above Lake; clouded over. Temperature 91&deg;
+noon; 94&deg; 3 P.M.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Rest, and kill an ox. The dry heat is
+distressing, and all feel it sorely. I am right glad of the rest, but
+keep on as constantly as I can. By giving dura and maize to the donkeys,
+and riding on alternate days, they hold on; but I feel the sun more than
+if walking. The chief Kariaria is civil.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Leave Mokaia and go south. We crossed several
+bays of Tanganyika, the path winding considerably. The people set fire
+to our camp as soon as we started.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Leave a bay of Tanganyika, and go on to Mpimbw&eacute;;
+two lions growled savagely as we passed. Game is swarming here, but my
+men cannot shoot except to make a noise. We found many lepidosirens in a
+muddy pool, which a group of vultures were catching and eating. The <a name="Page_240" id="Page_240" />men
+speared one of them, which had scales on; its tail had been bitten off
+by a cannibal brother: in length it was about two feet: there were
+curious roe-like portions near its backbone, yellow in colour; the flesh
+was good. We climbed up a pass at the east end of Mpimbw&eacute; mountain, and
+at a rounded mass of it found water.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Went on about south among mountains all day till
+we came down, by a little westing, to the Lake again, where there were
+some large villages, well stockaded, with a deep gully half round them.
+Ill with my old complaint again. Bubw&eacute; is the chief here. Food dear,
+because Simba made a raid lately. The country is Kilando.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Remained to prepare food and rest the people. Two
+islets, Nkoma and Kaleng&eacute;, are here, the latter in front of us.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;We got a water-buck and a large buffalo, and
+remained during the forenoon to cut up the meat, and started at 2 P.M.</p>
+
+<p>Went on and passed a large arm of Tanganyika, having a bar of hills on
+its outer border. Country swarming with large game. Passed two bomas,
+and spent the night near one of them. Course east and then south.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Mokassa, a Moganda boy, has a swelling of the
+ankle, which prevents his walking. We went one hour to find wood to make
+a litter for him. The bomas round the villages are plastered with mud,
+so as to intercept balls or arrows. The trees are all cut down for these
+stockades, and the flats are cut up with deep gullies. A great deal of
+cotton is cultivated, of which the people make their cloth. There is an
+arm of Tanganyika here called Kafungia.</p>
+
+<p>I sent a doti to the headman of the village, where we made the litter,
+to ask for a guide to take us straight south instead of going east to
+Fipa, which is four days off and out <a name="Page_241" id="Page_241" />of our course. Tipo Tipo is said
+to be at Morero, west of Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Turned back westwards, and went through the hills
+down to some large islets in the Lake, and camped in villages destroyed
+by Simba. A great deal of cotton is cultivated here, about thirty feet
+above the Lake.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd October, 1872.</i>&mdash;First east, and then passed two deep bays, at one
+of which we put up, as they had food to sell. The sides of the
+Tanganyika Lake are a succession of rounded bays, answering to the
+valleys which trend down to the shore between the numerous ranges of
+hills. In Lake Nyassa they seem made by the prevailing winds. We only
+get about one hour and a half south and by east. Rain probably fell last
+night, for the opposite shore is visible to-day. The mountain range of
+Banda slopes down as it goes south. This is the district of Motoshi.
+Wherever buffaloes are to be caught, falling traps are suspended over
+the path in the trees near the water.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;There are many rounded bays in mountainous Fipa.
+We rested two hours in a deep shady dell, and then came along a very
+slippery mountain-side to a village in a stockade. It is very hot
+to-day, and the first thunderstorm away in the east. The name of this
+village is Lind&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;The coast runs south-south-east to a cape. We
+went up south-east, then over a high steep hill to turn to south again,
+then down into a valley of Tanganyika, over another stony side, and down
+to a dell with a village in it. The west coast is very plain to-day;
+rain must have fallen there.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Over hills and mountains again, past two deep
+bays, and on to a large bay with a prominent islet on the south side of
+it, called Kitanda, from the chiefs name. There is also a rivulet of
+fine water of the same name here.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242" /><i>27th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Remained to buy food, which is very dear. We
+slaughtered a tired cow to exchange for provisions.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Left Kitanda, and came round the cape, going
+south. The cape furthest north bore north-north-west. We came to three
+villages and some large spreading trees, where we were invited by the
+headman to remain, as the next stage along the shore is long. Morilo
+islet is on the other or western side, at the crossing-place. The people
+brought in a leopard in great triumph. Its mouth and all its claws were
+bound with grass and bands of bark, as if to make it quite safe, and its
+tail was curled round: drumming and lullilooing in plenty.</p>
+
+<p>The chief Mosirwa, or Kasaman&eacute;, paid us a visit, and is preparing a
+present of food. One of his men was bitten by the leopard in the arm
+before he killed it. Molilo or Morilo islet is the crossing-place of
+Banyamwezi when bound for Casembe's country, and is near to the Lofuko
+River, on the western shore of the Lake. The Lake is about twelve or
+fifteen miles broad, at latitude 7&deg; 52' south. Tipo Tipo is ruling in
+Itawa, and bound a chief in chains, but loosed him on being requested to
+do so by Syde bin Ali. It takes about three hours to cross at Morilo.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Crossed the Thembwa Rivulet, twenty feet broad
+and knee deep, and sleep on its eastern bank. Fine cold water over stony
+bottom. The mountains now close in on Tanganyika, so there is no path
+but one, over which luggage cannot be carried. The stage after this is
+six hours up hill before we come to water. This forced me to stop after
+only a short crooked march of two and a quarter hours. We are now on the
+confines of Fipa. The next march takes us into Burungu.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th October, 1872.</i>&mdash;The highest parts of the mountains are from 500
+feet to 700 feet higher than the passes, say from 1300 feet to 1500 feet
+above the Lake. A very rough march to-day; one cow fell, and was
+disabled. The stones <a name="Page_243" id="Page_243" />are collected in little heaps and rows, which
+shows that all these rough mountains were cultivated. We arrive at a
+village on the Lake shore. Kirila islet is about a quarter of a mile
+from the shore. The Megunda people cultivated these hills in former
+times. Thunder all the morning, and a few drops of rain fell. It will
+ease the men's feet when it does fall. They call out earnestly for it,
+&quot;Come, come with hail!&quot; and prepare their huts for it.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st October, 1872.</i>&mdash;Through a long pass after we had climbed over
+Winelao. Came to an islet one and a half mile long, called Kapessa, and
+then into a long pass. The population of Megunda must have been
+prodigious, for all the stones have been cleared, and every available
+inch of soil cultivated.</p>
+
+<p>The population are said to have been all swept away by the Matuta.</p>
+
+<p>Going south we came to a very large arm of the Lake, with a village at
+the end of it in a stockade. This arm is seven or eight miles long and
+about two broad. We killed a cow to-day, and found peculiar flat worms
+in the substance of the liver, and some that were rounded.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23" /><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Without entering into the merits of a disputed point as to
+whether the men on their return journey would have been brought to a
+standstill at Unyanyemb&eacute; but for the opportune presence of Lieutenant
+Cameron and his party, it will be seen nevertheless that this entry
+fully bears out the assertion of the men that they had cloth laid by in
+store here for the journey to the coast.
+</p><p>
+It seems that by an unfortunate mistake a box of desiccated milk, of
+which the Doctor was subsequently in great need, was left behind amongst
+these goods. The last words written by him will remind one of the
+circumstance. On their return the unlucky box was the first thing that
+met Susi's eye!&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24" /><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Midday halt.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25" /><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Sweet potatoes.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X" /><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244" />CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chitu&ntilde;ku&eacute;'s. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><i>1st November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We hear that an eruption of Babemba, on the
+Baulungu, destroyed all the food. We tried to buy food here, but
+everything is hidden in the mountains, so we have to wait to-day till
+they fetch it. If in time, we shall make an afternoon's march. Raining
+to-day. The Eiver Mulu from Chingolao gave us much trouble in crossing
+from being filled with vegetation: it goes into Tanganyika. Our course
+south and east.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd November, 1872.</i>&mdash;Deceived by a guide, who probably feared his
+countrymen in front. Went round a stony cape, and then to a land-locked
+harbour, three miles long by two broad. Here was a stockade, where our
+guide absconded. They told us that if we continued our march we should
+not get water for four hours, so we rested, having marched four and a
+quarter hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We marched this morning to a village where food
+was reported. I had to punish two useless men for calling out, &quot;Posho!
+posho! posho!&quot; (rations) as soon as I came near. One is a confirmed
+bang&eacute;-smoker;<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26" /><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245" />the blows were given slightly, but I promised that the
+next should be severe. The people of Liemba village having a cow or two,
+and some sheep and goats, eagerly advised us to go on to the next
+village, as being just behind a hill, and well provisioned. Four very
+rough hills were the penalty of our credulity, taking four hours of
+incessant toil in these mountain fastnesses. They hide their food, and
+the paths are the most difficult that can be found, in order to wear out
+their enemies. To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five and
+a half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;All very tired. We tried to get food, but it is
+very dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably brought from
+Fipa. A rest will be beneficial to us.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We went up a high mountain, but found that one of
+the cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to be
+slaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the people went
+down for water.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steep
+mountain. Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb we look
+down on the Lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare floats over it.
+Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and looked sheer down 500 feet
+or 600 feet into its dark green waters. We saw three zebras and a young
+python here, and fine flowers.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th November, 1872, Sunday.</i>&mdash;Remained, but the headman forbade his
+people to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him to a parley,
+which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in defiance, as if he were
+inclined to fighting. At last, seeing that we took no notice of him, he
+sent us a present; I returned three times its value.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climb
+the high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and they did
+it well. I then sent some to find a path out from the Lake mountains,
+for they will kill us all; <a name="Page_246" id="Page_246" />others were despatched to buy food, but the
+Lake folks are poor except in fish.</p>
+
+<p>Swifts in flocks were found on the Lake when we came to it, and there
+are small migrations of swallows ever since. Though this is the very
+hottest time of year, and all the plants are burnt off or quite dried,
+the flowers persist in bursting out of the hot dry surface, generally
+without leaves. A purple ginger, with two yellow patches inside, is very
+lovely to behold, and it is alternated with one of a bright canary
+yellow; many trees, too, put on their blossoms. The sun makes the soil
+so hot that the radiation is as if it came from a furnace. It burns the
+feet of the people, and knocks them up. Subcutaneous inflammation is
+frequent in the legs, and makes some of my most hardy men useless. We
+have been compelled to slowness very much against my will. I too was
+ill, and became better only by marching on foot. Riding exposes one to
+the bad influence of the sun, while by walking the perspiration modifies
+beneficially the excessive heat. It is like the difference in effect of
+cold if one is in activity or sitting, and falling asleep on a
+stage-coach. I know ten hot fountains north of the Orange River; the
+further north the more hot and numerous they become.</p>
+
+<p>[Just here we find a note, which does not bear reference to anything
+that occurred at this time. Men, in the midst of their hard earnest
+toil, perceive great truths with a sharpness of outline and a depth of
+conviction which is denied to the mere idle theorist: he says:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p>The spirit of Missions is the spirit of our Master: the very genius of
+His religion. A diffusive philanthropy is Christianity itself. It
+requires perpetual propagation to attest its genuineness.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We got very little food, and kill a calf to fill
+our mouths a little. A path east seems to lead out from these mountains
+of Tanganyika. We went on east <a name="Page_247" id="Page_247" />this morning in highland open forest,
+then descended by a long slope to a valley in which there is water. Many
+Milenga gardens, but the people keep out of sight. The highlands are of
+a purple colour from the new leaves coming out. The donkey began to eat
+to my great joy. Men sent off to search for a village return
+empty-handed, and we must halt. I am ill and losing much blood.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;Out from the Lake mountains, and along high
+ridges of sandstone and dolomite. Our guide volunteered to take the men
+on to a place where food can be bought&mdash;a very acceptable offer. The
+donkey is recovering; it was distinctly the effects of tsetse, for the
+eyes and all the mouth and nostrils swelled. Another died at Kwihara
+with every symptom of tsetse poison fully developed.</p>
+
+<p>[The above remarks on the susceptibility of the donkey to the bite of
+the tsetse fly are exceedingly important. Hitherto Dr. Livingstone had
+always maintained, as the result of his own observations, that this
+animal, at all events, could be taken through districts in which horses,
+mules, dogs, and oxen would perish to a certainty. With the keen
+perception and perseverance of one who was exploring Africa with a view
+to open it up for Europeans, he laid great stress on these experiments,
+and there is no doubt that the distinct result which he here arrived at
+must have a very significant bearing on the question of travel and
+transport.</p>
+
+<p>Still passing through the same desolate country, we see that he makes a
+note on the forsaken fields and the watch-towers in them. Cucumbers are
+cultivated in large quantities by the natives of Inner Africa, and the
+reader will no doubt call to mind the simile adopted by Isaiah some 2500
+years ago, as he pictured the coming desolation of Zion, likening her to
+a &quot;lodge in a garden of cucumbers.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27" /><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>]</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248" /><i>11th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;Over
+gently undulating country, with many old gardens and watch-houses, some
+of great height, we reached the River Kalambo, which I know as falling
+into Tanganyika. A branch joins it at the village of Mosapasi; it is
+deep, and has to be crossed by a bridge, whilst the Kalambo is shallow,
+and say twenty yards wide, but it spreads out a good deal.</p>
+
+<p>[Their journey of the <i>12th</i> and <i>13th</i> led them over low ranges of
+sandstone and h&aelig;matite, and past several strongly stockaded villages.
+The weather was cloudy and showery&mdash;a relief, no doubt, after the
+burning heat of the last few weeks. They struck the Haloch&eacute;ch&eacute; River, a
+rapid stream fifteen yards wide and thigh deep, on its way to the Lake,
+and arrived at Zomb&eacute;'s town, which is built in such a manner that the
+river runs through it, whilst a stiff palisade surrounds it. He says:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p>It was entirely surrounded by M'toka's camp, and a constant fight
+maintained at the point where the line of stakes was weakened by the
+river running through. He killed four of the enemy, and then Chitimbwa
+and Kasonso coming to help him, the siege was raised.</p>
+
+<p>M'toka compelled some Malongwana to join him, and plundered many
+villages; he has been a great scourge. He also seems to have made an
+attack upon an Arab caravan, plundering it of six bales of cloth and one
+load of beads, telling them that if they wanted to get their things back
+they must come and help him conquer Zomb&eacute;. The siege lasted three
+months, till the two brothers of Zomb&eacute;, before-mentioned, came, and then
+a complete rout ensued. M'toka left nearly all his guns behind him; his
+allies, the Malongwana, had previously made their escape. It is two
+months since this rout, so we have been prevented by a kind Providence
+from coming soon enough. He was impudent and <a name="Page_249" id="Page_249" />extortionate before, and
+much more now that he has been emboldened by success in plundering.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;After waiting some time for the men I sent men
+back yesterday to look after the sick donkey, they arrived, but the
+donkey died this morning. Its death was evidently caused by tsetse bite
+and bad usage by one of the men, who kept it forty-eight hours without
+water. The rain, no doubt, helped to a fatal end; it is a great loss to
+me.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We went on along the bottom of a high ridge that
+flanks the Lake on the west, and then turned up south-east to a village
+hung on the edge of a deep chasm in which flows the Aeezy.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We were soon overwhelmed in a pouring rain, and
+had to climb up the slippery red path which is parallel and near to
+Mb&eacute;tt&eacute;'s. One of the men picked up a little girl who had been deserted
+by her mother. As she was benumbed by cold and wet he carried her; but
+when I came up he threw her into the grass. I ordered a man to carry
+her, and we gave her to one of the childless women; she is about four
+years old, and not at all negro-looking. Our march took us about S.W. to
+Kampamba's, the son of Kasonso, who is dead.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;I visited Kampamba. He is still as agreeable as
+he was before when he went with us to Liemba. I gave him two cloths as a
+present. He has a good-sized village. There are heavy rains now and then
+every day.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th, 21st, and 23rd November, 1872.</i>&mdash;The men turn to stringing beads
+for future use, and to all except defaulters I give a present of 2
+dotis, and a handful of beads each. I have diminished the loads
+considerably, which pleases them much. We have now 3-1/2 loads of
+calico, and 120 bags of beads. Several go idle, but have to do any odd
+work, such as helping the sick or anything they are ordered to do. I
+gave the two Nassickers who lost the cow and calf only 1 doti, they were
+worth 14 <a name="Page_250" id="Page_250" />dotis. One of our men is behind, sick with dysentery. I am
+obliged to leave him, but have sent for him twice, and have given him
+cloth and beads.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;Left Kampamba's to-day, and cross a meadow S.E.
+of the village in which the River Muanani rises. It flows into the
+Kapondosi and so on to the Lake. We made good way with Kiteneka as our
+guide, who formerly accompanied Kampamba and ourselves to Liemba. We
+went over a flat country once covered with trees, but now these have all
+been cut down, say 4 to 5 feet from the ground, most likely for
+clearing, as the reddish soil is very fertile. Long lines of hills of
+denudation are in the distance, all directed to the Lake.</p>
+
+<p>We came at last to Kasonso's successor's village on the River Molulw&eacute;,
+which is, say, thirty yards wide, and thigh deep. It goes to the Lofu.
+The chief here gave a sheep&mdash;a welcome present, for I was out of flesh
+for four days. Kampamba is stingy as compared with his father.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We came in an hour's march to a rivulet called
+the Casembe&mdash;the departed Kasonso lived here. The stream is very deep,
+and flows slowly to the Lofu. Our path lay through much pollarded
+forest, troublesome to walk in, as the stumps send out leafy shoots.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;Started at daybreak. The grass was loaded with
+dew, and a heavy mist hung over everything. Passed two villages of
+people come out to cultivate this very fertile soil, which they manure
+by burning branches of trees. The Rivulet Loela flows here, and is also
+a tributary of the Lofu.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;As it is Sunday we stay here at N'dari's
+village, for we shall be in an uninhabited track to-morrow, beyond the
+Lofu. The headman cooked six messes for us and begged us to remain for
+more food, which we buy. He gave us a handsome present of flour and a
+fowl, for which I return him a present of a doti. Very heavy rain and
+high gusts of wind, which wet us all.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251" /><i>28th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;We came to the River Lofu in a mile. It is
+sixty feet across and very deep. We made a bridge, and cut the banks
+down, so that the donkey and cattle could pass over. It took us two
+hours, during which time we hauled them all across with a rope. We were
+here misled by our guide, who took us across a marsh covered with tufts
+of grass, but with deep water between that never dries; there is a path
+which goes round it. We came to another village with a river which must
+be crossed&mdash;no stockade here, and the chief allowed us to camp in his
+town. There are long low lines of hills all about. A man came to the
+bridge to ask for toll-fee: as it was composed of one stick only, and
+unfit for our use because rotten, I agreed to pay provided he made it
+fit for our large company; but if I re-made and enlarged it, I said he
+ought to give me a goat for the labour. He slunk away, and we laid large
+trees across, where previously there was but one rotten pole.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th November, 1872.</i>&mdash;Crossed the Loozi in two branches, and climbed
+up the gentle ascent of Malemb&eacute; to the village of Chiw&eacute;, whom I formerly
+called Chibw&eacute;, being misled by the Yao tongue. Ilamba is the name of the
+rill at his place. The Loozi's two branches were waist deep. The first
+was crossed by a natural bridge of a fig-tree growing across. It runs
+into the Lofu, which river rises in Isunga country at a mountain called
+Kwitett&eacute;. The Chambez&eacute; rises east of this, and at the same place as
+Louzua.</p>
+
+<p>Chiw&eacute; presented a small goat with crooked legs and some millet flour,
+but he grumbled at the size of the fathom cloth I gave. I offered
+another fathom, and a bundle of needles, but he grumbled at this too,
+and sent it back. On this I returned his goat and marched.</p>
+
+<p>[The road lay through the same country among low hills, for several
+miles, till they came on the <i>1st December</i> to a rivulet called Lovu
+Katanta, where curiously enough they <a name="Page_252" id="Page_252" />found a nutmeg-tree in full
+bearing. A wild species is found at Angola on the West Coast and it was
+probably of this description, and not the same species as that which is
+cultivated in the East. In two places he says:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p>Who planted the nutmeg-tree on the Katanta?</p>
+
+<p>[Passing on with heavy rain pouring down, they now found themselves in
+the Wemba country, the low tree-covered hills exhibiting here and there
+&quot;fine-grained schist and igneous rocks of red, white, and green
+colour.&quot;]</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd December, 1872.</i>&mdash;No food to be got on account of M'toka's and Tipo
+Tipo's raids.</p>
+
+<p>A stupid or perverse guide took us away to-day N.W. or W.N.W. The
+villagers refused to lead us to Chipwit&eacute;'s, where food was to be had; he
+is S.W. 1-1/2 day off. The guide had us at his mercy, for he said, &quot;If
+you go S.W. you will be five days without food or people.&quot; We crossed
+the Ka&ntilde;omba, fifteen yards wide, and knee deep. Here our guide
+disappeared, and so did the path. We crossed the Lampussi twice; it is
+forty yards wide, and knee deep; our course is W.N.W. for about 4-1/2
+hours to-day. We camped and sent men to search for a village that has
+food. My third barometer (aneroid) is incurably injured by a fall, the
+man who carried it slipped upon a clayey path.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Waiting for the return of our men in a green
+wooded valley on the Lampussi River. Those who were sent yesterday
+return without anything; they were directed falsely by the country
+people, where nought could be bought. The people themselves are living
+on grubs, roots, and fruits. The young plasterer Sphex is very fat on
+coming out of its clay house, and a good relish for food. A man came to
+us demanding his wife and child; they are probably in hiding; the slaves
+of Tipo Tipo have been capturing people. One sinner destroyeth much
+good!</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253" /><i>5th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;The people eat mushrooms and leaves. My men
+returned about 5 P.M. with two of Kafimb&eacute;'s men bringing a present of
+food to me. A little was bought, and we go on to-morrow to sleep two
+nights on the way, and so to Kafimb&eacute;, who is a brother of Nsama's, and
+fights him.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;We cross the Lampussi again, and up to a mountain
+along which we go, and then down to some ruins. This took us five hours,
+and then with 2-1/4 more hours we reach Sintila. We hasten along as fast
+as hungry men (four of them sick) can go to get food.</p>
+
+<p><i>1th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Off at 6.15 A.M. A leopard broke in upon us last
+night and bit a woman. She screamed, and so did the donkey, and it ran
+off. Our course lay along between two ranges of low hills, then, where
+they ended, we went by a good-sized stream thirty yards or so across,
+and then down into a valley to Kafimb&eacute;'s.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Very heavy rains. I visited Kafimb&eacute;. He is an
+intelligent and pleasant young man, who has been attacked several times
+by Kitandula, the successor of Nsama of Itawa, and compelled to shift
+from Motononga to this rivulet Motosi, which flows into the Kisi and
+thence into Lake Moero.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Send off men to a distance for food, and wait of
+course. Here there is none for either love or money. To-day a man came
+from the Arab party at Kumba-Kumba's with a present of M'chel&eacute; and a
+goat. He reports that they have killed Casembe, whose people concealed
+from him the approach of the enemy till they were quite near. Having no
+stockade, he fell an easy prey to them. The conquerors put his head and
+all his ornaments on poles. His pretty wife escaped over Mofw&eacute;, and the
+slaves of the Arabs ran riot everywhere. We sent a return present of two
+dotis of cloth, one jorah of Kanik&eacute;, one doti of coloured cloth, three
+pounds of beads, and a paper of needles.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Left Kafimb&eacute;'s. He gave us three men <a name="Page_254" id="Page_254" />to take us
+into Chama's village, and came a mile along the road with us. Our road
+took us by a winding course from one little deserted village to another.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Being far from water we went two hours across a
+plain dotted with villages to a muddy rivulet called the Mukubw&eacute; (it
+runs to Moero), where we found the village of a nephew of Nsama. This
+young fellow was very liberal in gifts of food, and in return I gave him
+two cloths. An Arab, Juma bin Seff, sent a goat to-day. They have been
+riding it roughshod over all the inhabitants, and confess it.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Marenza sent a present of dura flour and a fowl,
+and asked for a little butter as a charm. He seems unwilling to give us
+a guide, though told by Kafimb&eacute; to do so. Many Garaganza about: they
+trade in leglets, ivory, and slaves. We went on half-an-hour to the
+River Moko&eacute;, which is thirty yards wide, and carries off much water into
+Malunda, and so to Lake Moero.</p>
+
+<p>When palm-oil palms are cut down for toddy, they are allowed to lie
+three days, then the top shoot is cut off smoothly, and the toddy begins
+to flow; and it flows for a month, or a month and a half or so, lying on
+the soil.</p>
+
+<p>[The note made on the following day is written with a feeble hand, and
+scarce one pencilled word tallies with its neighbour in form or
+distinctness&mdash;in fact, it is seen at a glance what exertion it cost him
+to write at all. He says no more than &quot;Ill&quot; in one place, but this is
+the evident explanation; yet with the same painstaking determination of
+old, the three rivers which they crossed have their names recorded, and
+the hours of marching and the direction are all entered in his pocket
+book.]</p>
+
+<p><i>13th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Westward about by south, and crossed a river,
+Mokobw&eacute;, thirty-five yards. Ill, and after going S.W. camped in a
+deserted village, S.W. travelling five hours. River Mekanda 2nd. Me&ntilde;omba
+3, where we camp.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255" /><i>14th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Guides turned N.W. to take us to a son of
+Nsama, and so play the usual present into his hands. I objected when I
+saw their direction, but they said, &quot;The path turns round in front.&quot;
+After going a mile along the bank of the Me&ntilde;omba, which has much water,
+Susi broke through and ran south, till he got a S. by W. path, which we
+followed, and came to a village having plenty of food. As we have now
+camped in village, we sent the men off to recall the fugitive women, who
+took us for Komba-Komba's men. Crossed the Luper&eacute;, which runs into the
+Makobw&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>A leech crawling towards me in the village this morning elicited the
+Bemba idea that they fall from the clouds or sky&mdash;&quot;mulu.&quot; It is called
+here &quot;Mosunda a maluz&eacute;,&quot; or leech of the rivers; &quot;Luba&quot; is the Zanzibar
+name. In one place I counted nineteen leeches in our path, in about a
+mile; rain had fallen, and their appearance out of their hiding-places
+suddenly after heavy rain may have given rise to the idea of their fall
+with it as fishes do, and the thunder frog is supposed to do. Always too
+cloudy and rainy for observations of stars.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;The country is now level, covered with trees
+pollarded for clothing, and to make ashes of for manure. There are many
+deserted villages, few birds. Cross the Eiver Lithabo, thirty yards wide
+and thigh deep, running fast to the S.W., joined by a small one near.
+Reached village of Chipala, on the Rivulet Chikatula, which goes to
+Moipanza. The Lithabo goes to Kalongwesi by a S.W. course.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Off at 6 A.M. across the Chikatula, and in
+three-quarters of an hour crossed the Lopanza, twelve yards wide and
+waist deep, being now in flood. The Lolela was before us in
+half-an-hour, eight yards wide and thigh deep, both streams perennial
+and embowered in tall umbrageous trees that love wet; both flow to the
+Kalongwesi.</p>
+
+<p>We came to quite a group of villages having food, and <a name="Page_256" id="Page_256" />remain, as we got
+only driblets in the last two camps. Met two Banyamwezi carrying salt to
+Lobemba, of Moambu. They went to Kabuir&eacute; for it, and now retail it on
+the way back.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we got to the village of Kasian&eacute;, which is close to two
+rivulets, named Lopanza and Lolela. The headman, a relative of Nsama,
+brought me a large present of flour of dura, and I gave him two fathoms
+of calico.</p>
+
+<p>Floods by these sporadic rainfalls have discoloured waters, as seen in
+Lopanza and Lolela to-day. The grass is all springing up quickly, and
+the Maleza growing fast. The trees generally in full foliage. Different
+shades of green, the dark prevailing; especially along rivulets, and the
+hills in the distance are covered with dark blue haze. Here, in Lobemba,
+they are gentle slopes of about 200 or 300 feet, and sandstone crops out
+over their tops. In some parts clay schists appear, which look as if
+they had been fused or were baked by intense heat.</p>
+
+<p>The pugnacious spirit is one of the necessities of life. When people
+have little or none of it, they are subjected to indignity and loss. My
+own men walk into houses where we pass the nights without asking any
+leave, and steal cassava without shame. I have to threaten and thrash to
+keep them honest, while if we are at a village where the natives are a
+little pugnacious they are as meek as sucking doves. The peace plan
+involves indignity and wrong. I give little presents to the headmen, and
+to some extent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is indeed much
+appreciated, and produces profound hand-clapping.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;It looked rainy, but we waited half-an-hour, and
+then went on one hour and a half, when it set in and forced us to seek
+shelter in a village. The head of it was very civil, and gave us two
+baskets of cassava, and one of dura. I gave a small present first. The
+district is called Kisinga, and flanks the Kalongwez&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257" /><i>18th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Over same flat pollarded forest until we
+reached the Kalongwes&eacute; Kiver on the right bank, and about a quarter of a
+mile east of the confluence of the Lu&eacute;na or Kisaka. This side of the
+river is called Kisinga, the other is Chama's and Kisinga too. The Luena
+comes from Jang&eacute; in Casembe's land, or W.S.W. of this. The Kalongwes&eacute;
+comes from the S.E. of this, and goes away N.W. The donkey sends a foot
+every now and then through the roof of cavities made apparently by ants,
+and sinks down 18 inches or more and nearly falls. These covered hollows
+are right in the paths.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;So cloudy and wet that no observations can be
+taken for latitude and longitude at this real geographical point. The
+Kalongwes&eacute; is sixty or eighty yards wide and four yards deep, about a
+mile above the confluence of the Lu&eacute;na. We crossed it in very small
+canoes, and swamped one twice, but no one was lost. Marched S. about
+1-1/4 hour.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Shut in by heavy clouds. Wait to see if it will
+clear up. Went on at 7.15, drizzling as we came near the Mozumba or
+chiefs stockade. A son of Chama tried to mislead us by setting out west,
+but the path being grass-covered I objected, and soon came on to the
+large clear path. The guide ran off to report to the son, but we kept on
+our course, and he and the son followed us. We were met by a party, one
+of whom tried to regale us by vociferous singing and trumpeting on an
+antelope's horn, but I declined the deafening honour. Had we suffered
+the misleading we should have come here to-morrow afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>A wet bed last night, for it was in the canoe that was upset. It was so
+rainy that there was no drying it.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Chama's. Heavy clouds drifting past,
+and falling drizzle. Chama's brother tried to mislead us yesterday, in
+hopes of making us wander hopelessly and helplessly. Failing in this,
+from my refusal to <a name="Page_258" id="Page_258" />follow a grass-covered path, he ran before us to the
+chief's stockade, and made all the women flee, which they did, leaving
+their chickens damless. We gave him two handsome cloths, one for himself
+and one for Chama, and said we wanted food only, and would buy it. They
+are accustomed to the bullying of half-castes, who take what they like
+for nothing. They are alarmed at our behaviour to-day, so we took quiet
+possession of the stockade, as the place that they put us in was on the
+open defenceless plain. Seventeen human skulls ornament the stockade.
+They left their fowls, and pigeons. There was no bullying. Our women
+went in to grind food, and came out without any noise. This flight seems
+to be caused by the foolish brother of the chief, and it is difficult to
+prevent stealing by my horde. The brother came drunk, and was taking off
+a large sheaf of arrows, when we scolded and prevented him.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd December, 1872.</i>&mdash;We crossed a rivulet at Chama's village ten
+yards wide and thigh deep, and afterwards in an hour and a half came to
+a sedgy stream which we could barely cross. We hauled a cow across
+bodily. Went on mainly south, and through much bracken.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Off at 6 A.M. in a mist, and in an hour and a
+quarter came to three large villages by three rills called Misangwa, and
+much sponge; went on to other villages south, and a stockade.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Cloud in sky with drifting clouds from S. and
+S.W. Very wet and drizzling. Sent back Chama's arrows, as his foolish
+brother cannot use them against us now; there are 215 in the bundle.
+Passed the Lopopussi running west to the Lofubu about seven yards wide,
+it flows fast over rocks with heavy aquatic plants. The people are not
+afraid of us here as they were so distressingly elsewhere: we hope to
+buy food here.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th December, 1872, Christmas Day.</i>&mdash;I thank the good Lord for the
+good gift of His Son Christ Jesus our Lord. Slaughtered <a name="Page_259" id="Page_259" />an ox, and gave
+a fundo and a half to each of the party. This is our great day, so we
+rest. It is cold and wet, day and night. The headman is gracious and
+generous, which is very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing to
+sell, or stop to speak, or show the way.</p>
+
+<p>The White Nile carrying forward its large quasi-tidal wave presents a
+mass of water to the Blue Nile, which acts as a buffer to its rapid
+flood. The White Nile being at a considerable height when the Blue
+rushes down its steep slopes, presents its brother Nile with a soft
+cushion into which it plunges, and is restrained by the <i>vis inerti&aelig;</i> of
+the more slowly moving river, and, both united, pass on to form the
+great inundation of the year in Lower Egypt. The Blue River brings down
+the heavier portion of the Nile deposit, while the White River comes
+down with the black finely divided matter from thousands of square miles
+of forest in Manyuema, which probably gave the Nile its name, and is in
+fact the real fertilizing ingredient in the mud that is annually left.
+Some of the rivers in Manyuema, as the Luia and Machila, are of inky
+blackness, and make the whole main stream of a very Nilotic hue. An
+acquaintance with these dark flowing rivers, and scores of rills of
+water tinged as dark as strong tea, was all my reward for plunging
+through the terrible Manyuema mud or &quot;glaur.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>26th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Along among the usual low tree-covered hills of
+red and yellow and green schists&mdash;paths wet and slippery. Came to the
+Lofubu, fifteen yards broad and very deep, water clear, flowing
+north-west to join Lu&eacute;na or Kisaka, as the Lopopussi goes west too into
+Lofubu it becomes large as we saw. We crossed by a bridge, and the
+donkey swam with men on each side of him. We came to three villages on
+the other side with many iron furnaces. Wet and drizzling weather made
+us stop soon. A herd of buffaloes, scared by our party, rushed off and
+broke the trees in their hurry, otherwise there is no game or marks of
+game visible.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260" /><i>27th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Leave the villages on the Lofubu. A cascade
+comes down on our left. The country undulating deeply, the hills, rising
+at times 300 to 400 feet, are covered with stunted wood. There is much
+of the common bracken fern and hart's-tongue. We cross one rivulet
+running to the Lofubu, and camp by a blacksmith's rill in the jungle. No
+rain fell to-day for a wonder, but the lower tier of clouds still drifts
+past from N.W.</p>
+
+<p>I killed a Naia Hadje snake seven feet long here, he reared up before me
+and turned to fight. The under north-west stratum of clouds is composed
+of fluffy cottony masses, the edges spread out as if on an electrical
+machine&mdash;the upper or south-east is of broad fields like striated cat's
+hair. The N.W. flies quickly, the S.E. slowly away where the others come
+from. No observations have been possible through most of this month.
+People assert that the new moon will bring drier weather, and the clouds
+are preparing to change the N.W. lower stratum into S.E., ditto, ditto,
+and the N.W. will be the upper tier.</p>
+
+<p>A man, ill and unable to come on, was left all night in the rain,
+without fire. We sent men back to carry him. Wet and cold. We are
+evidently ascending as we come near the Chambez&eacute;. The N.E. clouds came
+up this morning to meet the N.W. and thence the S.E. came across as if
+combating the N.W. So as the new moon comes soon, it may be a real
+change to drier weather.</p>
+
+<p>4 P.M.&mdash;The man carried in here is very ill; we must carry him
+to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;Our man Chipangawazi died last night and was
+buried this morning. He was a quiet good man, his disease began at
+Kampamba's. New moon last night.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th, or 1st January, 1873.</i>&mdash;I am wrong two days.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th December, 1872.</i>&mdash;After the burial and planting four branches of
+Mori&ntilde;ga at the corners of the grave we went on southwards 3-1/4 hours to
+a river, the Luongo, running strongly <a name="Page_261" id="Page_261" />west and south to the Luapula,
+then after one hour crossed it, twelve yards wide and waist deep. We met
+a man with four of his kindred stripping off bark to make bark-cloth: he
+gives me the above information about the Luongo.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st January, 1873. (30th.)</i>&mdash;Came on at 6 A.M. very cold. The rains
+have ceased for a time. Arrive at the village of the man who met us
+yesterday. As we have been unable to buy food, through the illness and
+death of Chipangawazi, I camp here.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Thursday&mdash;Wednesday was the 1st, I was two days
+wrong.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd January, 1873.</i>&mdash;The villagers very anxious to take us to the west
+to Chikumbi's, but I refused to follow them, and we made our course to
+the Luongo. Went into the forest south without a path for 1-1/2 hour,
+then through a flat forest, much fern and no game. We camped in the
+forest at the Situngula Rivulet. A little quiet rain through the night.
+A damp climate this&mdash;lichens on all the trees, even on those of 2 inches
+diameter. Our last cow died of injuries received in crossing the Lofubu.
+People buy it for food, so it is not an entire loss.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;March south one hour to the Lopoposi or Lopopozi
+stream of 25 or 30 feet, and now breast deep, flowing fast southwards to
+join the Chambez&eacute;. Camped at Keteb&eacute;'s at 2 P.M. on the Rivulet Kizima
+after very heavy rain.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;A woman of our party is very ill; she will require
+to be carried to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Keteb&eacute; or Kapesha very civil and generous. He sent
+three men to guide us to his elder brother Chungu. The men drum and sing
+harshly for him continually. I gave him half-a-pound of powder, and he
+lay on his back rolling and clapping his hands, and all his men
+lulliloed; then he turned on his front, and did the same. The men are
+very timid&mdash;no wonder, the Arab slaves do as they choose with them. The
+women burst out <a name="Page_262" id="Page_262" />through, the stockade in terror when my men broke into
+a chorus as they were pitching my tent. Cold, cloudy, and drizzling.
+Much cultivation far from the stockades.</p>
+
+<p>The sponges here are now full and overflowing, from the continuous and
+heavy rains. Crops of mileza, maize, cassava, dura, tobacco, beans,
+ground-nuts, are growing finely. A border is made round each patch,
+manured by burning the hedge, and castor-oil plants, pumpkins,
+calabashes, are planted in it to spread out over the grass.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;A cold rainy day keeps us in a poor village very
+unwillingly. 3 P.M. Fair, after rain all the morning&mdash;on to the Rivulet
+Kamalopa, which runs to Kamolozzi and into Kapopozi.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Detained by heavy continuous rains in the village
+Moenje. We are near Lake Bangweolo and in a damp region. Got off in the
+afternoon in a drizzle; crossed a rill six feet wide, but now very deep,
+and with large running sponges on each side; it is called the Kamalopa,
+then one hour beyond came to a sponge, and a sluggish rivulet 100 yards
+broad with broad sponges on either bank waist deep, and many leeches.
+Came on through flat forest as usual S.W. and S.</p>
+
+<p>[We may here call attention to the alteration of the face of the country
+and the prominent notice of &quot;sponges.&quot; His men speak of the march from
+this point as one continual plunge in and out of morass, and through
+rivers which were only distinguishable from the surrounding waters by
+their deep currents and the necessity for using canoes. To a man reduced
+in strength and chronically affected with dysenteric symptoms ever
+likely to be aggravated by exposure, the effect may be well conceived!
+It is probable that had Dr. Livingstone been at the head of a hundred
+picked Europeans, every man would have been down within the next
+fortnight. As it is, we cannot help thinking of his company of
+followers, who must have been well led and under the <a name="Page_263" id="Page_263" />most thorough
+control to endure these marches at all, for nothing cows the African so
+much as rain. The next day's journey may be taken as a specimen of the
+hardships every one had to endure:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p><i>9th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Mosumba of Chungu. After an hour we crossed the
+rivulet and sponge of Nkulumuna, 100 feet of rivulet and 200 yards of
+flood, besides some 200 yards of sponge full and running off; we then,
+after another hour, crossed the large rivulet Lopopozi by a bridge which
+was 45 feet long, and showed the deep water; then 100 yards of flood
+thigh deep, and 200 or 300 yards of sponge. After this we crossed two
+rills called Li&ntilde;kanda and their sponges, the rills in flood 10 or 12
+feet broad and thigh deep. After crossing the last we came near the
+Mosumba, and received a message to build our sheds in the forest, which
+we did.</p>
+
+<p>Chungu knows what a nuisance a Safari (caravan) makes itself. Cloudy
+day, and at noon heavy rain from N.W. The headman on receiving two
+cloths said he would converse about our food and show it to-morrow. No
+observations can be made, from clouds and rain.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Mosumba of Chungu. Rest to-day and get an insight
+into the ford: cold rainy weather. When we prepared to visit Chungu, we
+received a message that he had gone to his plantations to get millet. He
+then sent for us at 1 P.M. to come, but on reaching the stockade we
+heard a great Kel&eacute;l&eacute;, or uproar, and found it being shut from terror. We
+spoke to the inmates but in vain, so we returned. Chungu says that we
+should put his head on a pole like Casembe's! We shall go on without him
+to-morrow. The terror guns have inspired is extreme.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Chungu sent a goat and big basket of flour, and
+excused his fears because guns had routed Casembe and his head was put
+on a pole; it was his young men that raised the noise. We remain to buy
+food, as there is scarcity <a name="Page_264" id="Page_264" />at Mombo, in front. Cold and rainy weather,
+never saw the like; but this is among the sponges of the Nile and near
+the northern shores of Bangweolo.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;A dry day enabled us to move forward an hour to a
+rivulet and sponge, but by ascending it we came to its head and walked
+over dryshod, then one hour to another broad rivulet&mdash;Pinda, sluggish,
+and having 100 yards of sponge on each side. This had a stockaded
+village, and the men in terror shut the gates. Our men climbed over and
+opened them, but I gave the order to move forward through flat forest
+till we came to a running rivulet of about twenty feet, but with 100
+yards of sponge on each side. The white sand had come out as usual and
+formed the bottom. Here we entered a village to pass the night. We
+passed mines of fine black iron ore (&quot;motapo&quot;); it is magnetic.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Storm-stayed by rain and cold at the village on
+the Rivulet Kalambosi, near the Chambez&eacute;. Never was in such a spell of
+cold rainy weather except in going to Loanda in 1853. Sent back for
+food.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Went on dry S.E. and then S. two hours to River
+Mozinga, and marched parallel to it till we came to the confluence of
+Kasi&eacute;. Mosinga, 25 feet, waist deep, with 150 yards of sponge on right
+bank and about 50 yards on left. There are many plots of cassava, maize,
+millet, dura, ground-nuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded with
+strong high hedges skilfully built, and manured with wood ashes. The
+villagers are much afraid of us. After 4-1/2 hours we were brought up by
+the deep rivulet Mpanda, to be crossed to-morrow in canoes. There are
+many flowers in the forest: marigolds, a white jonquil-looking flower
+without smell, many orchids, white, yellow, and pink Asclepias, with
+bunches of French-white flowers, clematis&mdash;<i>Methonica gloriosa</i>,
+gladiolus, and blue and deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starry
+seed-vessels, and spikelets of brownish red and yellow. Besides these
+there are beautiful <a name="Page_265" id="Page_265" />blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of pretty
+delicate form and but little scent. To this list may be added balsams,
+composit&aelig; of blood-red colour and of purple; other flowers of liver
+colour, bright canary yellow, pink orchids on spikes thickly covered all
+round, and of three inches in length; spiderworts of fine blue or yellow
+or even pink. Different coloured asclepedials; beautiful yellow and red
+umbelliferous flowering plants; dill and wild parsnips; pretty flowery
+aloes, yellow and red, in one whorl of blossoms; peas, and many other
+flowering plants which I do not know. Very few birds or any kind of
+game. The people are Babisa, who have fled from the west and are busy
+catching fish in basket traps.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Found that Chungu had let us go astray towards
+the Lake, and into an angle formed by the Mpand&eacute; and Lopopussi, and the
+Lake-full of rivulets which are crossed with canoes. Chisupa, a headman
+on the other side of the Mpanda, sent a present and denounced Chungu for
+heartlessness. We explained to one man our change of route and went
+first N.E., then E. to the Monsinga, which we forded again at a deep
+place full of holes and rust-of-iron water, in which we floundered over
+300 yards. We crossed a sponge thigh deep before we came to the Mosinga,
+then on in flat forest to a stockaded village; the whole march about
+east for six hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Away north-east and north to get out of the many
+rivulets near the Lake back to the River Lopopussi, which now looms
+large, and must be crossed in canoes. We have to wait in a village till
+these are brought, and have only got 1-3/4 hour nearly north.</p>
+
+<p>We were treated scurvily by Chungu. He knew that we were near the
+Chambez&eacute;, but hid the knowledge and himself too. It is terror of guns.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;We are troubled for want of canoes, but have to
+treat gently with the owners, otherwise they would <a name="Page_266" id="Page_266" />all run away, as
+they have around Chungu's, in the belief that we should return to punish
+their silly headman. By waiting patiently yesterday, we drew about
+twenty canoes towards us this morning, but all too small for the donkey,
+so we had to turn away back north-west to the bridge above Chungu's. If
+we had tried to swim the donkey across alongside a canoe it would have
+been terribly strained, as the Lopopussi is here quite two miles wide
+and full of rushes, except in the main stream. It is all deep, and the
+country being very level as the rivulets come near to the Lake, they
+become very broad. Crossed two sponges with rivulets in their centre.</p>
+
+<p>Much cultivation in the forest. In the second year the mileza and maize
+are sickly and yellow white; in the first year, with fresh wood ashes,
+they are dark green and strong. Very much of the forest falls for
+manure. The people seem very eager cultivators. Possibly mounds have the
+potash brought up in forming.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;We lost a week by going to Chungu (a worthless
+terrified headman), and came back to the ford of Lopopussi, which we
+crossed, only from believing him to be an influential man who would
+explain the country to us. We came up the Lopopussi three hours
+yesterday, after spending two hours in going down to examine the canoes.
+We hear that Sayde bin Ali is returning from Katanga with much ivory.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;After prayers we went on to a fine village, and
+on from it to the Monons&eacute;, which, though only ten feet of deep stream
+flowing S., had some 400 yards of most fatiguing, plunging, deep sponge,
+which lay in a mass of dark-coloured rushes, that looked as if burnt
+off: many leeches plagued us. We were now two hours out. We went on two
+miles to another sponge and village, but went round its head dryshod,
+then two hours more to sponge Lovu. Flat forest as usual.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267" /><i>20th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Tried to observe lunars in vain; clouded over
+all, thick and muggy. Came on disappointed and along the Lovu 1-1/2
+mile. Crossed it by a felled tree lying over it. It is about six feet
+deep, with 150 yards of sponge. Marched about 2-1/2 hours: very
+unsatisfactory progress.</p>
+
+<p>[In answer to a question as to whether Dr. Livingstone could possibly
+manage to wade so much, Susi says that he was carried across these
+sponges and the rivulets on the shoulders of Chowp&eacute;r&eacute; or Chumah.]</p>
+
+<p><i>21st January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Fundi lost himself yesterday, and we looked out
+for him. He came at noon, having wandered in the eager pursuit of two
+herds of eland; having seen no game for a long time, he lost himself in
+the eager hope of getting one. We went on 2-1/2 hours, and were brought
+up by the River Malalanzi, which is about 15 feet wide, waist deep, and
+has 300 yards or more of sponge. Guides refused to come as Chitu&ntilde;k&ugrave;e,
+their headman, did not own them. We started alone: a man came after us
+and tried to mislead us in vain.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd January, 1873.</i>&mdash;We pushed on through many deserted gardens and
+villages, the man evidently sent to lead us astray from our S.E. course;
+he turned back when he saw that we refused his artifice. Crossed another
+rivulet, possibly the Lofu, now broad and deep, and then came to another
+of several deep streams but sponge, not more than fifty feet in all.
+Here we remained, having travelled in fine drizzling rain all the
+morning. Population all gone from the war of Chitoka with this
+Chitu&ntilde;k&ugrave;e.</p>
+
+<p>No astronomical observations worth naming during December and January;
+impossible to take any, owing to clouds and rain.</p>
+
+<p>It is trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives lying and
+misleading us wherever they can. They fear us <a name="Page_268" id="Page_268" />very, greatly, and with a
+terror that would gratify an anthropologist's heart. Their
+unfriendliness is made more trying by our being totally unable to
+observe for our position. It is either densely clouded, or continually
+raining day and night. The country is covered with brackens, and
+rivulets occur at least one every hour of the march. These are now deep,
+and have a broad selvage of sponge. The lower stratum of clouds moves
+quickly from the N.W.; the upper move slowly from S.E., and tell of rain
+near.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd January, 1873.</i>&mdash;We have to send back to villages of Chitu&ntilde;k&ugrave;e to
+buy food. It was not reported to me that the country in front was
+depopulated for three days, so I send a day back. I don't know where we
+are, and the people are deceitful in their statements; unaccountably so,
+though we deal fairly and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tired
+on this watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keep
+everything and every place wet and sloppy.</p>
+
+<p>Our people return with a wretched present from Chitu&ntilde;k&ugrave;e; bad flour and
+a fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. He sent also an exorbitant
+demand for gunpowder, and payment of guides. I refused his present, and
+must plod on without guides, and this is very difficult from the
+numerous streams.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp268" id="fp268" />
+<img src="images/fp268.jpg" width="550" height="301" alt="&quot;The Main Stream came up to Susi&#39;s Mouth&quot;" title="&quot;The Main Stream came up to Susi&#39;s Mouth&quot;" />
+<b>&quot;The Main Stream came up to Susi&#39;s Mouth&quot;</b>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>24th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Went on E. and N.E. to avoid the deep part of a
+large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chief
+would certainly hide them. Went 1-3/4 hour's journey to a large stream
+through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water, amongst sedges
+and sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for fifty yards, and
+the water cold. We plunged in elephants' footprints 1-1/2 hour, then
+came on one hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep,
+bridge covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad deep
+sedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was at
+least 2000 feet broad, or more than 300 <a name="Page_269" id="Page_269" />yards. The first part, the main
+stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held
+up my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and when he
+sank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, so
+as to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Others
+went on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the side of
+the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear
+stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong current
+came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had the
+first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab-looking man, then
+Amoda, then Chanda, then Wad&eacute; Sal&eacute;, and each time I was lifted off
+bodily, and put on another pair of stout willing shoulders, and fifty
+yards put them out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folk
+of our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross over,
+and several came over turn to help me and their friends. The water was
+cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued us. We had to hasten
+on the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rain
+threatened us. After 4 P.M. it came on a pouring cold rain, when we were
+all under cover. We are anxious about food. The Lake is near, but we are
+not sure of provisions, as there have been changes of population. Our
+progress is distressingly slow. Wet, wet, wet; sloppy weather, truly,
+and no observations, except that the land near the Lake being very
+level, the rivers spread out into broad friths and sponges. The streams
+are so numerous that there has been a scarcity of names. Here we have
+Loon and Lu&eacute;na. We had two Loous before, and another Luena.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Kept in by rain. A man from Unyanyemb&eacute; joined us
+this morning. He says that he was left sick. Rivulets and sponges again,
+and through flat forest, where, as usual, we can see the slope of the
+land by the leaves being washed into heaps in the direction which the
+<a name="Page_270" id="Page_270" />water in the paths wished to take. One and a half hours more, and then
+to the River Loou, a large stream with bridge destroyed. Sent to make
+repairs before we go over it, and then passed. The river is deep, and
+flows fast to the S.W., having about 200 yards of safe flood flowing in
+long grass&mdash;clear water. The men built their huts, and had their camp
+ready by 3 P.M. A good day's work, not hindered by rain. The country all
+depopulated, so we can buy nothing. Elephants and antelopes have been
+here lately.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;I arranged to go to our next River Luena, and
+ascend it till we found it small enough for crossing, as it has much
+&quot;Tinga-tinga,&quot; or yielding spongy soil; but another plan was formed by
+night, and we were requested to go down the Loou. Not wishing to appear
+overbearing, I consented until we were, after two hours' southing,
+brought up by several miles of Tinga-tinga. The people in a fishing
+village ran away from us, and we had to wait for some sick ones. The
+women are collecting mushrooms. A man came near us, but positively
+refused to guide us to Matipa, or anywhere else.</p>
+
+<p>The sick people compelled us to make an early halt.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;On again through streams, over sponges and
+rivulets thigh deep. There are marks of gnu and buffalo. I lose much
+blood, but it is a safety-valve for me, and I have no fever or other
+ailments.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;A dreary wet morning, and no food that we know of
+near. It is drop, drop, drop, and drizzling from the north-west. We
+killed our last calf but one last night to give each a mouthful. At 9.30
+we were allowed by the rain to leave our camp, and march S.E. for two
+hours to a strong deep rivulet ten feet broad only, but waist deep, and
+150 yards of flood all deep too. Sponge about forty yards in all, and
+running fast out. Camped by a broad prairie or Bouga.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;No rain in the night, for a wonder. We <a name="Page_271" id="Page_271" />tramped
+1-1/4 hour to a broad sponge, having at least 300 yards of flood, and
+clear water flowing S.W., but no usual stream. All was stream flowing
+through the rushes, knee and thigh deep. On still with the same,
+repeated again and again, till we came to broad branching sponges, at
+which I resolved to send out scouts S., S.E., and S.W. The music of the
+singing birds, the music of the turtle doves, the screaming of the
+frankolin proclaim man to be near.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th January, 1873.</i>&mdash;Remain waiting for the scouts. Manuasera returned
+at dark, having gone about eight hours south, and seen the Lake and two
+islets. Smoke now appeared in the distance, so he turned, and the rest
+went on to buy food where the smoke was. Wet evening.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26" /><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Bang&eacute; or hemp in time produces partial idiotcy if smoked
+in excess. It is used amongst all the Interior tribes.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27" /><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Isaiah i. 8.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI" /><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272" />CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chitu&ntilde;ku&egrave;'s. At the chief's mercy.
+    Agreeably surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very
+    difficult march. Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends
+    scouts out to find villages. Message to Chirubw&eacute;. An ant raid.
+    Awaits news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of
+    Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and
+    Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at
+    Matipa's islet. Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit.
+    Tries to go on to Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a
+    demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and
+    detachment sent to Kabinga's. Extraordinary extent of flood.
+    Reaches Kabinga's. An upset. Crosses the Chambez&eacute;. The River
+    Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and water. A
+    disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations on fish.
+    Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous
+    state of Dr. Livingstone.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><i>1st February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Waiting for the scouts. They return
+unsuccessful&mdash;forced to do so by hunger. They saw a very large river
+flowing into the Lake, but did not come across a single soul. Killed our
+last calf, and turn back for four hard days' travel to Chitu&ntilde;ku&egrave;'s. I
+send men on before us to bring food back towards us.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd February, 1873.</i>&mdash;March smartly back to our camp of 28th ult. The
+people bear their hunger well. They collect mushrooms and plants, and
+often get lost in this flat featureless country.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Return march to our bridge on the Lofu, five
+hours. In going we went astray, and took six hours to <a name="Page_273" id="Page_273" />do the work of
+five. Tried lunars in vain. Either sun or moon in clouds. On the Lu&eacute;na.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Return to camp on the rivulet with much
+<i>Methonica gloriosa</i> on its banks. Our camp being on its left bank of
+26th. It took long to cross the next river, probably the Kwal&eacute;, though
+the elephants' footprints are all filled up now. Camp among deserted
+gardens, which afford a welcome supply of cassava and sweet potatoes.
+The men who were sent on before us slept here last night, and have
+deceived us by going more slowly without loads than we who are loaded.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Chitu&ntilde;ku&egrave;'s, crossing two broad deep
+brooks, and on to the Malalenzi, now swollen, having at least 200 yards
+of flood and more than 300 yards of sponge. Saluted by a drizzling
+shower. We are now at Chitu&ntilde;ku&egrave;'s mercy.</p>
+
+<p>We find the chief more civil than we expected. He said each chief had
+his own land and his own peculiarities. He was not responsible for
+others. We were told that we had been near to Matipa and other chiefs:
+he would give us guides if we gave him a cloth and some powder.</p>
+
+<p>We returned over these forty-one miles in fifteen hours, through much
+deep water. Our scouts played us false both in time and beads: the
+headmen punished them. I got lunars, for a wonder. Visited Chitunkubw&eacute;,
+as his name properly is. He is a fine jolly-looking man, of a European
+cast of countenance, and very sensible and friendly. I gave him two
+cloths, for which he seemed thankful, and promised good guides to
+Matipa's. He showed me two of Matipa's men who had heard us firing guns
+to attract one of our men who had strayed; these men followed us. It
+seems we had been close to human habitations, but did not know it. We
+have lost half a month by this wandering, but it was all owing to the
+unfriendliness of some and the fears of all. I begged for a more
+northerly path, where the <a name="Page_274" id="Page_274" />water is low. It is impossible to describe
+the amount of water near the Lake. Rivulets without number. They are so
+deep as to damp all ardour. I passed a very large striped spider in
+going to visit Chitunkubw&eacute;. The stripes were of yellowish green, and it
+had two most formidable reddish mandibles, the same shape as those of
+the redheaded white ant. It seemed to be eating a kind of ant with a
+light-coloured head, not seen elsewhere. A man killed it, and all the
+natives said that it was most dangerous. We passed gardens of dura;
+leaves all split up with hail, and forest leaves all punctured.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Chitunkubw&eacute; gave a small goat and a large basket
+of flour as a return present. I gave him three-quarters of a pound of
+powder, in addition to the cloth.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;This chief showed his leanings by demanding
+prepayment for his guides. This being a preparatory step to their
+desertion I resisted, and sent men to demand what he meant by his words;
+he denied all, and said that his people lied, not he. We take this for
+what it is worth. He gives two guides to-morrow morning, and visits us
+this afternoon.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;The chief dawdles, although he promised great
+things yesterday. He places the blame on his people, who did not prepare
+food on account of the rain. Time is of no value to them. We have to
+remain over to-day. It is most trying to have to wait on frivolous
+pretences. I have endured such vexatious delays. The guides came at last
+with quantities of food, which they intend to bargain with my people on
+the way. A Nassicker who carried my saddle was found asleep near my
+camp.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Slept in a most unwholesome, ruined village. Rank
+vegetation had run over all, and the soil smelled offensively. Crossed a
+sponge, then a rivulet, and sponge running into the Miwal&eacute; Eiver, then
+by a rocky passage we crossed the Mofiri, or great Tinga-tinga, a water
+<a name="Page_275" id="Page_275" />running strongly waist and breast deep, above thirty feet broad here,
+but very much broader below. After this we passed two more rills and the
+River Methonua, but we build a camp above our former one. The human
+ticks called &quot;papasi&quot; by the Suaheli, and &quot;karapatos&quot; by the Portuguese,
+made even the natives call out against their numbers and ferocity.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Back again to our old camp on the Lovu or Lofu
+by the bridge. We left in a drizzle, which continued from 4 A.M. to 1
+P.M. We were three hours in it, and all wetted, just on reaching camp by
+200 yards, of flood mid-deep; but we have food.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Our guides took us across country, where we saw
+tracks of buffaloes, and in a meadow, the head of a sponge, we saw a
+herd of Hartebeests. A drizzly night was followed by a morning of cold
+wet fog, but in three hours we reached our old camp: it took us six
+hours to do this distance before, and five on our return. We camped on a
+deep bridged stream, called the Kiachibw&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;We crossed the Kasoso, which joins the Mokisya,
+a river we afterwards crossed: it flows N.W., then over the Mofungw&eacute;.
+The same sponges everywhere.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;In four hours we came within sight of the Lu&eacute;na
+and Lake, and saw plenty of elephants and other game, but very shy. The
+forest trees are larger. The guides are more at a loss than we are, as
+they always go in canoes in the flat rivers and rivulets. Went E., then
+S.E. round to S.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Public punishment to Chirango for stealing
+beads, fifteen cuts; diminished his load to 40 lbs., giving him blue and
+white beads to be strung. The water stands so high in the paths that I
+cannot walk dryshod, and I found in the large bougas or prairies in
+front, that it lay knee deep, so I sent on two men to go to the first
+villages of Matipa for large canoes to navigate the Lake, or give us a
+guide to go east to the Chambez&eacute;, to go round on foot. It <a name="Page_276" id="Page_276" />was Halima
+who informed on Chirango, as he offered her beads for a cloth of a kind
+which she knew had not hitherto been taken out of the baggage. This was
+so far faithful in her, but she has an outrageous tongue. I remain
+because of an excessive h&aelig;morrhagic discharge.</p>
+
+<p>[We cannot but believe Livingstone saw great danger in these constant
+recurrences of his old disorder: we find a trace of it in the solemn
+reflections which he wrote in his pocket-book, immediately under the
+above words:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p>If the good Lord gives me favour, and permits me to finish my work, I
+shall thank and bless Him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain, and
+travel; this trip has made my hair all grey.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th February, 1873, Sunday.</i>&mdash;Service. Killed our last goat while
+waiting for messengers to return from Matipa's. Evening: the messenger
+came back, having been foiled by deep tinga-tinga and bouga. He fired
+his gun three times, but no answer came, so as he had slept one night
+away he turned, but found some men hunting, whom he brought with him.
+They say that Matipa is on Chirub&eacute; islet, a good man too, but far off
+from this.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Sent men by the hunter's canoe to Chirub&eacute;, with
+a request to Matipa to convey us west if he has canoes, but, if not, to
+tell us truly, and we will go east and cross the Chambez&eacute; where it is
+small. Chitunkubw&eacute;'s men ran away, refusing to wait till we had
+communicated with Matipa. Here the water stands underground about
+eighteen inches from the surface. The guides played us false, and this
+is why they escaped.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;The men will return to-morrow, but they have to
+go all the way out to the islet of Chirub&eacute; to Matipa's.</p>
+
+<p>Suffered a furious attack at midnight from the red Sirafu or Driver
+ants. Our cook fled first at their onset. I lighted a candle, and
+remembering Dr. Van der Kemp's idea that no <a name="Page_277" id="Page_277" />animal will attack man
+unprovoked, I lay still. The first came on my foot quietly, then some
+began to bite between the toes, then the larger ones swarmed over the
+foot and bit furiously, and made the blood start out. I then went out of
+the tent, and my whole person was instantly covered as close as
+small-pox (not confluent) on a patient. Grass fires were lighted, and my
+men picked some off my limbs and tried to save me. After battling for an
+hour or two they took me into a hut not yet invaded, and I rested till
+they came, the pests, and routed me out there too! Then came on a steady
+pour of rain, which held on till noon, as if trying to make us
+miserable. At 9 A.M. I got back into my tent. The large Sirafu have
+mandibles curved like reaping-sickles, and very sharp&mdash;as fine at the
+point as the finest needle or a bee's sting. Their office is to remove
+all animal refuse, cockroaches, &amp;c., and they took all my fat. Their
+appearance sets every cockroach in a flurry, and all ants, white and
+black, get into a panic. On man they insert the sharp curved mandibles,
+and then with six legs push their bodies round so as to force the points
+by lever power. They collect in masses in their runs and stand with
+mandibles extended, as if defying attack. The large ones stand thus at
+bay whilst the youngsters hollow out a run half an inch wide, and about
+an inch deep. They remained with us till late in the afternoon, and we
+put hot ashes on the defiant hordes. They retire to enjoy the fruits of
+their raid, and come out fresh another day.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;We wait hungry and cold for the return of the
+men who have gone to Matipa, and hope the good Lord will grant us
+influence with this man.</p>
+
+<p>Our men have returned to-day, having obeyed the native who told them to
+sleep instead of going to Matipa. They bought food, and then believed
+that the islet Chirub&eacute; was too far off, and returned with a most lame
+story. We shall make the best of it by going N.W., to be near the islets
+and <a name="Page_278" id="Page_278" />buy food, till we can communicate with Matipa. If he fails us by
+fair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The men say fear of me
+makes them act very cowardly. I have gone amongst the whole population
+kindly and fairly, but I fear I must now act rigidly, for when they hear
+that we have submitted to injustice, they at once conclude that we are
+fair game for all, and they go to lengths in dealing falsely that they
+would never otherwise attempt. It is, I can declare, not my nature, nor
+has it been my practice, to go as if &quot;my back were up.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>19th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;A cold wet morning keeps us in this
+uncomfortable spot. When it clears up we go to an old stockade, to be
+near an islet to buy food. The people, knowing our need, are
+extortionate. We went on at 9 A.M. over an extensive water-covered
+plain. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and then in it we went
+westward, in branches of the Luena, very deep and flowing W. for three
+hours. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and we were then near
+enough to hear Bangweolo bellowing. The water on the plain is four,
+five, and seven feet deep. There are rushes, ferns, papyrus, and two
+lotuses, in abundance. Many dark grey caterpillars clung to the grass
+and were knocked off as we paddled or poled. Camped in an old village of
+Matipa's, where, in the west, we see the Luena enter Lake Bangweolo; but
+all is flat prairie or buga, filled with fast-flowing water, save a few
+islets covered with palms and trees. Rain continued sprinkling us from
+the N.W. all the morning. Elephants had run riot over the ruins, eating
+a species of grass now in seed. It resembles millet, and the donkey is
+fond of it. I have only seen this and one other species of grass in seed
+eaten by the African elephant. Trees, bulbs, and fruits are his
+dainties, although ants, whose hills he overturns, are relished. A large
+party in canoes came with food as soon as we reached our new quarters:
+they had heard that we were in search of Matipa. All are eager for
+calico, though they have only <a name="Page_279" id="Page_279" />raw cassava to offer. They are clothed in
+bark-cloth and skins. Without canoes no movement can be made in any
+direction, for it is water everywhere, water above and water below.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;I sent a request to a friendly man to give me
+men, and a large canoe to go myself to Matipa; he says that he will let
+me know to-day if he can. Heavy rain by night and drizzling by day. No
+definite answer yet, but we are getting food, and Matipa will soon hear
+of us as he did when we came and returned back for food. I engaged
+another man to send a canoe to Matipa, and I showed him his payment, but
+retain it here till he comes back.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st February, 1873.</i>&mdash;The men engaged refuse to go to Matipa's, they
+have no honour. It is so wet we can do nothing. Another man spoken to
+about going, says that they run the risk of being killed by some hostile
+people on another island between this and Matipa's.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd February, 1873.</i>&mdash;A wet morning. I was ill all yesterday, but
+escape fever by h&aelig;morrhage. A heavy mantle of N.W. clouds came floating
+over us daily. No astronomical observation can possibly be taken. I was
+never in such misty cloudy weather in Africa. A man turned up at 9 A.M.
+to carry our message to Matipa; Susi and Chumah went with him. The good
+Lord go with them, and lend me influence and grant me help.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd February, 1873, Sunday.</i>&mdash;Service. Rainy.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Tried hard for a lunar, but the moon was lost in
+the glare of the sun.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;For a wonder it did not rain till 4 P.M. The
+people bring food, but hold out for cloth, which is inconvenient.</p>
+
+<p>Susi and Chumah not appearing may mean that the men are preparing canoes
+and food to transport us.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Susi returned this morning with good news from
+Matipa, who declares his willingness to carry us to Kabend&eacute; for the five
+bundles of brass wire I offered. It is not on <a name="Page_280" id="Page_280" />Chirub&eacute;, but amid the
+swamps of the mainland on the Lake's north side. Immense swampy plains
+all around except at Kabend&eacute;. Matipa is at variance with his brothers on
+the subject of the lordship of the lands and the produce of the
+elephants, which are very numerous. I am devoutly thankful to the Giver
+of all for favouring me so far, and hope that He may continue His kind
+aid.</p>
+
+<p>No mosquitoes here, though Speke, at the Victoria Nyanza, said they
+covered the bushes and grass in myriads, and struck against the hands
+and face most disagreeably.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;Waiting for other canoes to be sent by Matipa.
+His men say that there is but one large river on the south of Lake
+Bangweolo, and called Luomba. They know the mountains on the south-east
+as I do, and on the west, but say they don't know any on the middle of
+the watershed. They plead their youth as an excuse for knowing so
+little.</p>
+
+<p>Matipa's men proposed to take half our men, but I refused to divide our
+force; they say that Matipa is truthful.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th February, 1873.</i>&mdash;No night rain after 8 P.M., for a wonder. Baker
+had 1500 men in health on 15th June, 1870, at lat. 9&deg; 26' N., and 160 on
+sick list; many dead. Liberated 305 slaves. His fleet was thirty-two
+vessels; wife and he well. I wish that I met him. Matipa's men not
+having come, it is said they are employed bringing the carcase of an
+elephant to him. I propose to go near to him to-morrow, some in canoes
+and some on foot. The good Lord help me. New moon this evening.</p>
+
+<p><i>1st March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Embarked women and goods in canoes, and went three
+hours S.E. to Bangweolo. Stopped on an island where people were drying
+fish over fires. Heavy rain wetted us all as we came near the islet, the
+drops were as large as half-crowns by the marks they made. We went over
+flooded prairie four feet deep, and covered with rushes, and two
+varieties of lotus or sacred lily; both are eaten, and <a name="Page_281" id="Page_281" />so are papyrus.
+The buffaloes are at a loss in the water. Three canoes are behind. The
+men are great cowards. I took possession of all the paddles and punting
+poles, as the men showed an inclination to move off from our islet. The
+water in the country is prodigiously large: plains extending further
+than the eye can reach have four or five feet of clear water, and the
+Lake and adjacent lands for twenty or thirty miles are level. We are on
+a miserable dirty fishy island called Motovinza; all are damp. We are
+surrounded by scores of miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotus
+plants, but no mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd March, 1873.</i>&mdash;It took us 7-1/2 hours' punting to bring us to an
+island, and then the miserable weather rained constantly on our landing
+into the Boma (stockade), which is well peopled. The prairie is ten
+hours long, or about thirty miles by punting. Matipa is on an island
+too, with four bomas on it. A river, the Molonga, runs past it, and is a
+protection.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28" /><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a></p>
+
+<p>The men wear a curious head-dress of skin or hair, and large upright
+ears.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Matipa paid off the men who brought us here. He says
+that five Sangos or coils (which brought us here) will do to take us to
+Kabend&eacute;, and I sincerely hope that they will. His canoes are off,
+bringing the meat of an elephant. There are many dogs in the village,
+which they use in hunting to bring elephants to bay. I visited Matipa at
+noon. He is an old man, slow of tongue, and self-possessed; he
+recommended our crossing to the south bank of the Lake to his brother,
+who has plenty of cattle, and to go<a name="Page_282" id="Page_282" />along that side where there are few
+rivers and plenty to eat. Kabend&eacute;'s land was lately overrun by
+Banyamwezi, who now inhabit that country, but as yet have no food to
+sell. Moanzabamba was the founder of the Babisa tribe, and used the
+curious plaits of hair which form such a singular head-dress here like
+large ears. I am rather in a difficulty, as I fear I must give the five
+coils for a much shorter task; but it is best not to appear unfair,
+although I will be the loser. He sent a man to catch a Sampa for me, it
+is the largest fish in the Lake, and he promised to have men ready to
+take my men over to-morrow. Matipa never heard from any of the elders of
+his people that any of his forefathers ever saw a European. He knew
+perfectly about Pereira, Lacerda, and Monteiro, going to Casembe, and my
+coming to the islet Mpabala. No trace seems to exist of Captain
+Singleton's march.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29" /><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> The native name of Pereira is &quot;Moenda Mondo:&quot; of
+Lacerda, &quot;Charlie:&quot; of Monteiro's party, &quot;Makabalw&eacute;,&quot; or the donkey men,
+but no other name is heard. The following is a small snatch of Babisa
+lore. It was told by an old man who came to try for some beads, and
+seemed much interested about printing. He was asked if there were any
+marks made on the rocks in any part of the country, and this led to his
+story. Lukerenga came from the west a long time ago to the River
+Lualaba. He had with him a little dog. When he wanted to pass over he
+threw his mat on the water, and this served as a raft, and they crossed
+the stream. When he reached the other side there were rocks at the
+landing place, and the mark is still to be seen on the stone, not only
+of his foot, but of a stick which he cut with his hatchet, and of his
+dog's feet; the name of the place is Uch&eacute;wa.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Sent canoes off to bring our men over to<a name="Page_283" id="Page_283" />the island
+of Matipa. They brought ten, but the donkey could not come as far
+through the &quot;tinga-tinga&quot; as they, so they took it back for fear that it
+should perish. I spoke to Matipa this morning to send more canoes, and
+he consented. We move outside, as the town swarms with mice, and is very
+closely built and disagreeable. I found mosquitoes in the town.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Time runs on quickly. The real name of this island
+is Masumbo, and the position may be probably long. 31&deg; 3'; lat. 10&deg; 11'
+S. Men not arrived yet. Matipa very slow.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Building a camp outside the town for quiet and
+cleanliness, and no mice to run over us at night. This islet is some
+twenty or thirty feet above the general flat country and adjacent water.</p>
+
+<p>At 3 P.M. we moved up to the highest part of the island where we can see
+around us and have the fresh breeze from the Lake. Rainy as we went up,
+as usual.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;We expect our men to-day. I tremble for the donkey!
+Camp sweet and clean, but it, too, has mosquitoes, from which a curtain
+protects me completely&mdash;a great luxury, but unknown to the Arabs, to
+whom I have spoken about it. Abed was overjoyed by one I made for him;
+others are used to their bites, as was the man who said that he would
+get used to a nail through the heel of his shoe. The men came at 3 P.M.,
+but eight had to remain, the canoes being too small. The donkey had to
+be tied down, as he rolled about on his legs and would have forced his
+way out. He bit Mabruki Speke's lame hand, and came in stiff from lying
+tied all day. We had him shampooed all over, but he could not eat
+dura&mdash;he feels sore. Susi did well under the circumstances, and we had
+plenty of flour ready for all. Chanza is near Kabinga, and this last
+chief is coming to visit me in a day or two.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;I press Matipa to get a fleet of canoes equal <a name="Page_284" id="Page_284" />to
+our number, but he complains of their being stolen by rebel subjects. He
+tells me his brother Kabinga would have been here some days ago but for
+having lost a son, who was killed by an elephant: he is mourning for him
+but will come soon. Kabinga is on the other side of the Chambez&eacute;. A
+party of male and female drummers and dancers is sure to turn up at
+every village; the first here had a leader that used such violent antics
+perspiration ran off his whole frame. I gave a few strings of beads, and
+the performance is repeated to-day by another lot, but I rebel and allow
+them to dance unheeded. We got a sheep for a wonder for a doti; fowls
+and fish alone could be bought, but Kabinga has plenty of cattle.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="p284" id="p284" />
+<img src="images/p284.jpg" width="400" height="271" alt="Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Mosquito Curtain." title="Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Mosquito Curtain." />
+<b>Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Mosquito Curtain.</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is a species of carp with red ventral fin, which is caught and
+used in very large quantities: it is called &quot;pumbo.&quot; The people dry it
+over fires as preserved provisions. Sampa is the largest fish in the
+Lake, it is caught by a hook. The Lu&eacute;na goes into Bangweolo at
+Molan<a name="Page_285" id="Page_285" />dangao. A male Msob&eacute; had faint white stripes across the back and
+one well-marked yellow stripe along the spine. The hip had a few faint
+white spots, which showed by having longer hair than the rest; a kid of
+the same species had a white belly.</p>
+
+<p>The eight men came from Motovinza this afternoon, and now all our party
+is united. The donkey shows many sores inflicted by the careless people,
+who think that force alone can be used to inferior animals.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Matipa says &quot;Wait; Kabinga is coming, and he has
+canoes.&quot; Time is of no value to him. His wife is making him pombe, and
+will drown all his cares, but mine increase and plague me. Matipa and
+his wife each sent me a huge calabash of pombe; I wanted only a little
+to make bread with.</p>
+
+<p>By putting leaven in a bottle and keeping it from one baking to another
+(or three days) good bread is made, and the dough being surrounded by
+banana leaves or maize leaves (or even forest leaves of hard texture and
+no taste, or simply by broad leafy grass), is preserved from burning in
+an iron pot. The inside of the pot is greased, then the leaves put in
+all round, and the dough poured in to stand and rise in the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Better news comes: the son of Kabinga is to be here to-night, and we
+shall concoct plans together.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;The news was false, no one came from Kabinga. The
+men strung beads to-day, and I wrote part of my despatch for Earl
+Granville.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;- I went to Matipa, and proposed to begin the
+embarkation of my men at once, as they are many, and the canoes are only
+sufficient to take a few at a time. He has sent off a big canoe to reap
+his millet, when it returns he will send us over to see for ourselves
+where we can go. I explained the danger of setting my men astray.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Rains have ceased for a few days. Went <a name="Page_286" id="Page_286" />down to
+Matipa and tried to take his likeness for the sake of the curious hat he
+wears.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Finish my despatch so far.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th March, 1873, Sunday.</i>&mdash;Service. I spoke sharply to Matipa for his
+duplicity. He promises everything and does nothing: he has in fact no
+power over his people. Matipa says that a large canoe will come
+to-morrow, and next day men will go to Kabinga to reconnoitre. There may
+be a hitch there which we did not take into account; Kabinga's son,
+killed by an elephant, may have raised complications: blame may be
+attached to Matipa, and in their dark minds it may appear all important
+to settle the affair before having communication with him. Ill all day
+with my old complaint.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="p286" id="p286" />
+<img src="images/p286.jpg" width="400" height="312" alt="Matipa and his Wife." title="Matipa and his Wife." />
+<b>Matipa and his Wife.</b>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>17th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;The delay is most trying. So many deten<a name="Page_287" id="Page_287" />tions have
+occurred they ought to have made me of a patient spirit.</p>
+
+<p>As I thought, Matipa told us to-day that it is reported he has some
+Arabs with him who will attack all the Lake people forthwith, and he is
+anxious that we shall go over to show them that we are peaceful.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Sent off men to reconnoitre at Kabinga's and to
+make a camp there. Rain began again after nine days' dry weather, N.W.
+wind, but in the morning fleecy clouds came from S.E. in patches. Matipa
+is acting the villain, and my men are afraid of him: they are all
+cowards, and say that they are afraid of me, but this is only an excuse
+for their cowardice.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for sparing
+me thus far on the journey of life. Can I hope for ultimate success? So
+many obstacles have arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, Oh! my good
+Lord Jesus.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30" /><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a></p>
+
+<p>8 A.M. Got about twenty people off to canoes. Matipa not friendly. They
+go over to Kabinga on S.W. side of the Chambez&eacute;, and thence we go
+overland. 9 A.M. Men came back and reported Matipa false again; only one
+canoe had come. I made a demonstration by taking quiet possession of his
+village and house; fired a pistol through the roof and called my men,
+ten being left to guard the camp; Matipa fled to another village. The
+people sent off at once and brought three canoes, so at 11 A.M. my men
+embarked quietly. They go across the Chambez&eacute; and build a camp on its
+left bank. All Kabinga's cattle are kept on an island called Kalilo,
+near the mouth of the Chambez&eacute;, and are perfectly wild: they are driven
+into the water like buffaloes, and pursued when one is wanted for meat.
+No milk is ever obtained of course.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Cold N.W. weather, but the rainfall is small, <a name="Page_288" id="Page_288" />as
+the S.E. stratum comes down below the N.W. by day. Matipa sent two large
+baskets of flour (cassava), a sheep, and a cock. He hoped that we should
+remain with him till the water of the over-flood dried, and help him to
+fight his enemies, but I explained our delays, and our desire to
+complete our work and meet Baker.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Very heavy N.W. rain and thunder by night, and by
+morning. I gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire, and his wife a string
+of large neck beads, and explained my hurry to be off. He is now all
+fair, and promises largely: he has been much frightened by our warlike
+demonstration. I am glad I had to do nothing but make a show of force.</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Susi not returned from Kabinga. I hope that he is
+getting canoes, and men also, to transport us all at one voyage. It is
+flood as far as the eye can reach; flood four and six feet deep, and
+more, with three species of rushes, two kinds of lotus, or sacred lily,
+papyrus, arum, &amp;c. One does not know where land ends, and Lake begins:
+the presence of land-grass proves that this is not always overflowed.</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Men returned at noon. Kabinga is mourning for his
+son killed by an elephant, and keeps in seclusion. The camp is formed on
+the left bank of the Chambez&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th March.</i>&mdash;The people took the canoes away, but in fear sent for
+them. I got four, and started with all our goods, first giving a present
+that no blame should follow me. We punted six hours to a little islet
+without a tree, and no sooner did we land than a pitiless pelting rain
+came on. We turned up a canoe to get shelter. We shall reach the
+Chambez&eacute; to-morrow. The wind tore the tent out of our hands, and damaged
+it too; the loads are all soaked, and with the cold it is bitterly
+uncomfortable. A man put my bed into the bilge, and never said &quot;Bale
+out,&quot; so I was for a wet night, but it turned out better than I
+ex<a name="Page_289" id="Page_289" />pected. No grass, but we made a bed of the loads, and a blanket
+fortunately put into a bag.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Nothing earthly will make me give up my work in
+despair. I encourage myself in the Lord my God, and go forward.</p>
+
+<p>We got off from our miserably small islet of ten yards at 7 A.M., a
+grassy sea on all sides, with a few islets in the far distance. Four
+varieties of rushes around us, triangular and fluted, rise from eighteen
+inches to two feet above the water. The caterpillars seem to eat each
+other, and a web is made round others; the numerous spiders may have
+been the workmen of the nest. The wind on the rushes makes a sound like
+the waves of the sea. The flood extends out in slightly depressed arms
+of the Lake for twenty or thirty miles, and far too broad to be seen
+across; fish abound, and ant-hills alone lift up their heads; they have
+trees on them. Lukutu flows from E. to W. to the Chambez&eacute;, as does the
+Lubanseusi also. After another six hours' punting, over the same
+wearisome prairie or Bouga, we heard the merry voices of children. It
+was a large village, on a flat, which seems flooded at times, but much
+cassava is planted on mounds, made to protect the plants from the water,
+which stood in places in the village, but we got a dry spot for the
+tent. The people offered us huts. We had as usual a smart shower on the
+way to Kasenga, where we slept. We passed the Islet Luangwa.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;We started at 7.30, and got into a large stream out
+of the Chambez&eacute;, called Mabziwa. One canoe sank in it, and we lost a
+slave girl of Amoda. Fished up three boxes, and two guns, but the boxes
+being full of cartridges were much injured; we lost the donkey's saddle
+too. After this mishap we crossed the Lubanseusi, near its confluence
+with the Chambez&eacute;, 300 yards wide and three fathoms deep, and a slow
+current. We crossed the Chambez&eacute;. It is about 400 yards wide, with a
+quick clear <a name="Page_290" id="Page_290" />current of two knots, and three fathoms deep, like the
+Lubanseus&eacute;; but that was slow in current, but clear also. There is one
+great lock after another, with thick mats of hedges, formed of aquatic
+plants between. The volume of water is enormous. We punted five hours,
+and then camped.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;I sent canoes and men back to Matipa's to bring all
+the men that remained, telling them to ship them at once on arriving,
+and not to make any talk about it. Kabinga keeps his distance from us,
+and food is scarce; at noon he sent a man to salute me in his name.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;Making a pad for a donkey, to serve instead of a
+saddle. Kabinga attempts to sell a sheep at an exorbitant price, and
+says that he is weeping over his dead child. Mabruki Speke's hut caught
+fire at night, and his cartridge box was burned.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th March, 1873.</i>&mdash;I bought a sheep for 100 strings of beads. I wished
+to begin the exchange by being generous, and told his messenger so; then
+a small quantity of maize was brought, and I grumbled at the meanness of
+the present: there is no use in being bashful, as they are not ashamed
+to grumble too. The man said that Kabinga would send more when he had
+collected it.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th March, 1873, Sunday.</i>&mdash;A lion roars mightily. The fish-hawk utters
+his weird voice in the morning, as if he lifted up to a friend at a
+great distance, in a sort of falsetto key.</p>
+
+<p>5 P.M. Men returned, but the large canoe having been broken by the
+donkey, we have to go back and pay for it, and take away about twenty
+men now left. Matipa kept all the payment from his own people, and so
+left us in the lurch; thus another five days is lost.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st March, 1873.</i>&mdash;I sent the men back to Matipa's for all our party.
+I give two dotis to repair the canoe. Islanders are always troublesome,
+from a sense of security in their fast<a name="Page_291" id="Page_291" />nesses. Made stirrups of thick
+brass wire four-fold; they promise to do well. Sent Kabinga a cloth, and
+a message, but he is evidently a niggard, like Matipa: we must take him
+as we find him, there is no use in growling. Seven of our men returned,
+having got a canoe from one of Matipa's men. Kabinga, it seems, was
+pleased with the cloth, and says that he will ask for maize from his
+people, and buy it for me; he has rice growing. He will send a canoe to
+carry me over the next river.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Very heavy rain last night. Six inches fell in a
+short time. The men at last have come from Matipa's.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, and got a fat one
+for 2-1/2 dotis, to give the party a feast ere we start. The kambari
+fish of the Chambez&eacute; is three feet three inches in length.</p>
+
+<p>Two others, the &quot;polw&eacute;&quot; and &quot;lopatakwao,&quot; all go up the Chambez&eacute; to
+spawn when the rains begin. Casembe's people make caviare of the spawn
+of the &quot;pumbo.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>[The next entry is made in a new pocket-book, numbered XVII. For the
+first few days pen and ink were used, afterwards a well-worn stump of
+pencil, stuck into a steel penholder and attached to a piece of bamboo,
+served his purpose.]</p>
+
+<p><i>5th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;March from Kabinga's on the Chambez&eacute;, our luggage in
+canoes, and men on land. We punted on flood six feet deep, with many
+ant-hills all about, covered with trees. Course S.S.E. for five miles,
+across the River Lobingela, sluggish, and about 300 yards wide.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Leave in the same way, but men were sent from
+Kabinga to steal the canoes, which we paid his brother Mateysa
+handsomely for. A stupid drummer, beating the alarm in the distance,
+called us inland; we found the main <a name="Page_292" id="Page_292" />body of our people had gone on, and
+so by this, our party got separated,<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31" /><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> and we pulled and punted six or
+seven hours S.W. in great difficulty, as the fishermen we saw refused to
+show us where the deep water lay. The whole country S. of the Lake was
+covered with water, thickly dotted over with lotus-leaves and rushes. It
+has a greenish appearance, and it might be well on a map to show the
+spaces annually flooded by a broad wavy band, twenty, thirty, and even,
+forty miles out from the permanent banks of the Lake: it might be
+coloured light green. The broad estuaries fifty or more miles, into
+which the rivers form themselves, might be coloured blue, but it is
+quite impossible at present to tell where land ends, and Lake begins; it
+is all water, water everywhere, which seems to be kept from flowing
+quickly off by the narrow bed of the Luapula, which has perpendicular
+banks, worn deep down in new red sandstone. It is the Nile apparently
+enacting its inundations, even at its sources. The amount of water
+spread out over the country constantly excites my wonder; it is
+prodigious. Many of the ant-hills are cultivated and covered with dura,
+pumpkins, beans, maize, but the waters yield food plenteously in fish
+and lotus-roots. A species of wild rice grows, but the people neither
+need it nor know it. A party of fishermen fled from us, but by coaxing
+we got them to show us deep water. They then showed us an islet, about
+thirty yards square, without wood, and desired us to sleep there. We
+went on, and then they decamped.</p>
+
+<p>Pitiless pelting showers wetted everything; but near sunset we saw two
+fishermen paddling quickly off from an ant-hill, where we found a hut,
+plenty of fish, and some firewood. There we spent the night, and watched
+by turns, lest thieves should come and haul away our canoes and
+goods. <a name="Page_293" id="Page_293" />Heavy rain. One canoe sank, wetting everything in her. The leaks
+in her had been stopped with clay, and a man sleeping near the stern had
+displaced this frail caulking. We did not touch the fish, and I cannot
+conjecture who has inspired fear in all the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Went on S.W., and saw two men, who guided us to the
+River Muanakazi, which forms a connecting link between the River
+Lotingila and the Lolotikila, about the southern borders of the flood.
+Men were hunting, and we passed near large herds of antelopes, which
+made a rushing, plunging sound as they ran and sprang away among the
+waters. A lion had wandered into this world of water and ant-hills, and
+roared night and morning, as if very much disgusted: we could sympathise
+with him! Near to the Muanakazi, at a broad bank in shallow water near
+the river, we had to unload and haul. Our guides left us, well pleased
+with the payment we had given them. The natives beating a drum on our
+east made us believe them to be our party, and some thought that they
+heard two shots. This misled us, and we went towards the sound through
+papyrus, tall rushes, arums, and grass, till tired out, and took refuge
+on an ant-hill for the night. Lion roaring. We were lost in stiff grassy
+prairies, from three to four feet deep in water, for five hours. We
+fired a gun in the stillness of the night, but received no answer; so on
+the <i>8th</i> we sent a small canoe at daybreak to ask for information and
+guides from the village where the drums had been beaten. Two men came,
+and they thought likewise that our party was south-east; but in that
+direction the water was about fifteen inches in spots and three feet in
+others, which caused constant dragging of the large canoe all day, and
+at last we unloaded at another branch of the Muanakazi with a village of
+friendly people. We slept there.</p>
+
+<p>All hands at the large canoe could move her only a <a name="Page_294" id="Page_294" />few feet. Putting
+all their strength to her, she stopped at every haul with a jerk, as if
+in a bank of adhesive plaister. I measured the crown of a papyrus plant
+or palm, it was three feet across horizontally, its stalk eight feet in
+height. Hundreds of a large dark-grey hairy caterpillar have nearly
+cleared off the rushes in spots, and now live on each other. They can
+make only the smallest progress by swimming or rather wriggling in the
+water: their motion is that of a watch-spring thrown down, dilating and
+contracting.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;After two hours' threading the very winding, deep
+channel of this southern branch of the Muanakazi, we came to where our
+land party had crossed it and gone on to Gandochit&eacute;, a chief on the
+Lolotikila. My men were all done up, so I hired a man to call some of
+his friends to take the loads; but he was stopped by his relations in
+the way, saying, &quot;You ought to have one of the traveller's own people
+with you.&quot; He returned, but did not tell us plainly or truly till this
+morning.</p>
+
+<p>[The recent heavy exertions, coupled with constant exposure and extreme
+anxiety and annoyance, no doubt brought on the severe attack which is
+noticed, as we see in the words of the next few days.]</p>
+
+<p><i>10th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;The headman of the village explained, and we sent
+two of our men, who had a night's rest with the turnagain fellow of
+yesterday. I am pale, bloodless, and; weak from bleeding profusely ever
+since the 31st of March last: an artery gives off a copious stream, and
+takes away my strength. Oh, how I long to be permitted by the Over Power
+to finish my work.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Cross the Muanakazi. It is about 100 or 130 yards
+broad, and deep. Great loss of <i>a&iacute;&micro;a</i> made me so weak I could hardly
+walk, but tottered along nearly two <a name="Page_295" id="Page_295" />hours, and then lay down quite
+done. Cooked coffee&mdash;our last&mdash;and went on, but in an hour I was
+compelled to lie down. Very unwilling to be carried, but on being
+pressed I allowed the men to help me along by relays to Chinama, where
+there is much cultivation. We camped in a garden of dura.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp295" id="fp295" />
+<img src="images/fp295.jpg" width="550" height="317" alt="The Last Miles of Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Travels" title="The Last Miles of Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Travels" />
+<b>The Last Miles of Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Travels</b>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>13th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Found that we had slept on the right bank of the
+Lolotikila, a sluggish, marshy-looking river, very winding, but here
+going about south-west. The country is all so very flat that the rivers
+down here are of necessity tortuous. Fish and other food abundant, and
+the people civil and reasonable. They usually partake largely of the
+character of the chief, and this one, Gondochit&eacute;, is polite. The sky is
+clearing, and the S.E. wind is the lower stratum now. It is the dry
+season well begun. Seventy-three inches is a higher rainfall than has
+been observed anywhere else, even in northern Manyuema; it was lower by
+inches than here far south on the watershed. In fact, this is the very
+heaviest rainfall known in these latitudes; between fifty and sixty is
+the maximum.</p>
+
+<p>One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees, occupying
+quarters of miles in breadth, and these give way to bouga or prairie
+again. The bouga is flooded annually, but its vegetation consists of dry
+land grasses. Other bouga extend out from the Lake up to forty miles,
+and are known by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums,
+rushes of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic subaqueous
+plants which send up their flowers only to fructify in the sun, and then
+sink to ripen one bunch after another. Others, with great
+cabbage-looking leaves, seem to remain always at the bottom. The young
+of fish swarm, and bob in and out from the leaves. A species of soft
+moss grows on most plants, and seems to be good fodder for fishes,
+fitted by hooked or turned-up noses to guide it into their maws.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp296" id="fp296" />
+<img src="images/fp296.jpg" width="550" height="349" alt="Fish Eagle on Hippopotamus Trap" title="Fish Eagle on Hippopotamus Trap" />
+<b>Fish Eagle on Hippopotamus Trap</b>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296" />One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a hook, which
+enables the animal to hold its mouth close to the plant, as it glides up
+or down, sucking in all the soft pulpy food. The superabundance of
+gelatinous nutriment makes these swarmers increase in bulk with
+extraordinary rapidity, and the food supply of the people is plenteous
+in consequence. The number of fish caught by weirs, baskets, and nets
+now, as the waters decline, is prodigious. The fish feel their element
+becoming insufficient for comfort, and retire from one bouga to another
+towards the Lake; the narrower parts are duly prepared by weirs to take
+advantage of their necessities; the sun heat seems to oppress them and
+force them to flee. With the south-east aerial current comes heat and
+sultriness. A blanket is scarcely needed till the early hours of the
+morning, and here, after the turtle doves and cocks give out their
+warning calls to the watchful, the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkable
+voice. It is pitched in a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as if
+he were calling to some one in the other world. Once heard, his weird
+unearthly voice can never be forgotten&mdash;it sticks to one through life.</p>
+
+<p>We were four hours in being ferried over the Loitikila, or Lolotikila,
+in four small canoes, and then two hours south-west down its left bank
+to another river, where our camp has been formed. I sent over a present
+to the headman, and a man returned with the information that he was ill
+at another village, but his wife would send canoes to-morrow to transport
+us over and set us on our way to Muanazambamba, south-west, and over
+Lolotikila again.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;At a branch of the Lolotikila.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Cross Lolotikila again (where it is only fifty
+yards) by canoes, and went south-west an hour. I, being very weak, had
+to be carried part of the way. Am glad of resting; <i>a&iacute;&micro;a</i> flow
+copiously last night. A woman, the wife of the chief, gave a present of
+a goat and maize.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297" /><i>16th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Went south-west two and a half hours, and crossed
+the Lombatwa River of 100 yards in width, rush deep, and flowing fast in
+aquatic vegetation, papyrus, &amp;c., into the Loitikila. In all about three
+hours south-west.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;A tremendous rain after dark burst all our now
+rotten tents to shreds. Went on at 6.35 A.M. for three hours, and I, who
+was suffering severely all night, had to rest. We got water near the
+surface by digging in yellow sand. Three hills now appear in the
+distance. Our course, S.W. three and three-quarter hours to a village on
+the Kazya River. A Nyassa man declared that his father had brought the
+heavy rain of the 16th on us. We crossed three sponges.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;On leaving the village on the Kazya, we forded it
+and found it seventy yards broad, waist to breast deep all over. A large
+weir spanned it, and we went on the lower side of that. Much papyrus and
+other aquatic plants in it. Fish are returning now with the falling
+waters, and are guided into the rush-cones set for them. Crossed two
+large sponges, and I was forced to stop at a village after travelling
+S.W. for two hours: very ill all night, but remembered that the bleeding
+and most other ailments in this land are forms of fever. Took two
+scruple doses of quinine, and stopped it quite.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;A fine bracing S.E. breeze kept me on the donkey
+across a broad sponge and over flats of white sandy soil and much
+cultivation for an hour and a half, when we stopped at a large village
+on the right bank of,<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32" /><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> and men went over to the chief Muanzambamba to
+ask canoes to cross to-morrow. I am excessively weak, and but for the
+donkey could not move a hundred yards. It is not all pleasure this
+exploration. The Lavusi hills are a relief to<a name="Page_298" id="Page_298" />the eye in this flat
+upland. Their forms show an igneous origin. The river Kazya comes from
+them and goes direct into the Lake. No observations now, owing to great
+weakness; I can scarcely hold the pencil, and my stick is a burden. Tent
+gone; the men build a good hut for me and the luggage. S.W. one and a
+half hour.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th April, 1873, Sunday.</i>&mdash;Service. Cross over the sponge, Moenda, for
+food and to be near the headman of these parts, Moanzambamba. I am
+excessively weak. Village on Moenda sponge, 7 A.M. Cross Lokulu in a
+canoe. The river is about thirty yards broad, very deep, and flowing in
+marshes two knots from S.S.B. to N.N.W. into Lake.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28" /><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> It will be observed that these islets were in reality
+slight eminences standing above water on the flooded plains which border
+on Lake Bangweolo. The men say that the actual deep-water Lake lay away
+to their right, and on being asked why Dr. Livingstone did not make a
+short cut across to the southern shore, they explain that the canoes
+could not live for an hour on the Lake, but were merely suited for
+punting about over the flooded land.&mdash;Ed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29" /><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Defoe's book, 'Adventures of Captain Singleton,' is
+alluded to. It would almost appear as if Defoe must have come across
+some unknown African traveller who gave him materials for this
+work.&mdash;Ed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30" /><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> This was written on his last birthday.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31" /><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Dr. Livingstone's object was to keep the land party
+marching parallel to him whilst he kept nearer to the Lake in a
+canoe.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32" /><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> He leaves room for a name which perhaps in his exhausted
+state he forgot to ascertain.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 487px;"><a name="fp299" id="fp299" />
+<img src="images/fp299.jpg" width="487" height="430" alt="The Last Entry in Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Journals" title="The Last Entry in Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Journals" />
+<b>The Last Entry in Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Journals</b>
+</div>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII" /><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299" />CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chumah's additional details. Great agony in his last
+    illness. Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for
+    the Hill of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses
+    the Mohlamo into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at
+    Chitambo's village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller.
+    The last night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The
+    account of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of
+    the men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is
+    dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the
+    men wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation
+    of the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>[We have now arrived at the last words written in Dr. Livingstone's
+diary: a copy of the two pages in his pocket-book which contains them is,
+by the help of photography, set before the reader. It is evident that he
+was unable to do more than make the shortest memoranda, and to mark on
+the map which he was making the streams which enter the Lake as he
+crossed them. From the <i>22nd</i> to the <i>27th</i> April he had not strength to
+write down anything but the several dates. Fortunately Susi and Chumah
+give a very clear and circumstantial account of every incident which
+occurred on these days, and we shall therefore add what they say, after
+each of the Doctor's entries. He writes:&mdash;]</p>
+
+<p><i>21st April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Tried to ride, but was forced to lie down, and they
+carried me back to vil. exhausted.</p>
+
+<p>[The men explain this entry thus:&mdash;This morning the Doctor tried if he
+were strong enough to ride on the <a name="Page_300" id="Page_300" />donkey, but he had only gone a short
+distance when he fell to the ground utterly exhausted and faint. Susi
+immediately undid his belt and pistol, and picked up his cap which had
+dropped off, while Chumah threw down his gun and ran to stop the men on
+ahead. When he got back the Doctor said, &quot;Chumah, I have lost so much
+blood, there is no more strength left in my legs: you must carry me.&quot; He
+was then assisted gently to his shoulders, and, holding the man's head
+to steady himself, was borne back to the village and placed in the hut
+he had so recently left. It was necessary to let the Chief Muanazawamba
+know what had happened, and for this purpose Dr. Livingstone despatched
+a messenger. He was directed to ask him to supply a guide for the next
+day, as he trusted then to have recovered so far as to be able to march:
+the answer was, &quot;Stay as long as you wish, and when you want guides to
+Kalunganjovu's you shall have them.&quot;]</p>
+
+<p><i>22nd April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Carried on kitanda over Buga S.W. 2-1/4.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33" /><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a></p>
+
+<p>[His servants say that instead of rallying, they saw that his strength
+was becoming less and less, and in order to carry him they made a
+kitanda of wood, consisting of two side pieces of seven feet in length,
+crossed with rails three feet long, and about four inches apart, the
+whole lashed strongly together. This framework was covered with grass,
+and a blanket laid on it. Slung from a pole, and borne between two
+strong men, it made a tolerable palanquin, and on this the exhausted
+traveller was conveyed to the next village through a flooded grass
+plain. To render the kitanda more comfortable another blanket was
+suspended across the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and allow
+the air to pass under whilst the sun's rays were fended off from<a name="Page_301" id="Page_301" />the
+sick man. The start was deferred this morning until the dew was off the
+heads of the long grass sufficiently to ensure his being kept tolerably
+dry.</p>
+
+<p>The excruciating pains of his dysenteric malady caused him the greatest
+exhaustion as they marched, and they were glad enough to reach another
+village in 2-1/4 hours, having travelled S.W. from the last point. Here
+another hut was built. The name of the halting-place is not remembered
+by the men, for the villagers fled at their approach; indeed the noise
+made by the drums sounding the alarm had been caught by the Doctor some
+time before, and he exclaimed with thankfulness on hearing it, &quot;Ah, now
+we are near!&quot; Throughout this day the following men acted as bearers of
+the kitanda: Chowp&eacute;r&eacute;, Songolo, Chumah, and Adiamberi. Sowf&eacute;r&eacute;, too,
+joined in at one time.]</p>
+
+<p><i>23rd April, 1873.</i>&mdash;(No entry except the date.)</p>
+
+<p>[They advanced another hour and a half through the same expanse of
+flooded treeless waste, passing numbers of small fish-weirs set in such
+a manner as to catch the fish on their way back to the Lake, but seeing
+nothing of the owners, who had either hidden themselves or taken to
+flight on the approach of the caravan. Another village afforded them a
+night's shelter, but it seems not to be known by any particular name.]</p>
+
+<p><i>24th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;(No entry except the date.)</p>
+
+<p>[But one hour's march was accomplished to-day, and again they halted
+amongst some huts&mdash;place unknown. His great prostration made progress
+exceedingly painful, and frequently when it was necessary to stop the
+bearers of the kitanda, Chumah had to support the Doctor from falling.]</p>
+
+<p><i>25th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;(No entry except the date.)</p>
+
+<p>[In an hour's course S.W. they arrived at a village in <a name="Page_302" id="Page_302" />which they found
+a few people. Whilst his servants were busy completing the hut for the
+night's encampment, the Doctor, who was lying in a shady place on the
+kitanda, ordered them to fetch one of the villagers. The chief of the
+place had disappeared, but the rest of his people seemed quite at their
+ease, and drew near to hear what was going to be said. They were asked
+whether they knew of a hill on which four rivers took their rise. The
+spokesman answered that they had no knowledge of it; they themselves,
+said he, were not travellers, and all those who used to go on trading
+expeditions were now dead. In former years Malenga's town, Kutchinyama,
+was the assembling place of the Wabisa traders, but these had been swept
+off by the Mazitu. Such as survived had to exist as best they could
+amongst the swamps and inundated districts around the Lake. Whenever an
+expedition was organised to go to the coast, or in any other direction,
+travellers met at Malenga's town to talk over the route to be taken:
+then would have been the time, said they, to get information about every
+part. Dr. Livingstone was here obliged to dismiss them, and explained
+that he was too ill to continue talking, but he begged them to bring as
+much food as they could for sale to Kalunganjovu's.]</p>
+
+<p><i>26th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;(No entry except the date.)</p>
+
+<p>[They proceeded as far as Kalunganjovu's town, the chief himself coming
+to meet them on the way dressed in Arab costume and wearing a red fez.
+Whilst waiting here Susi was instructed to count over the bags of beads,
+and, on reporting that twelve still remained in stock, Dr. Livingstone
+told him to buy two large tusks if an opportunity occurred, as he might
+run short of goods by the time they got to Ujiji, and could then
+exchange them with the Arabs there for cloth, to spend on their way to
+Zanzibar.]</p>
+
+<p>To-day, the <i>27th April, 1873,</i> he seems to have been almost <a name="Page_303" id="Page_303" />dying. No
+entry at all was made in his diary after that which follows, and it must
+have taxed him to the utmost to write:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Knocked up quite, and remain&mdash;recover&mdash;sent to buy milch goats. We are
+on the banks of the Molilamo.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>They are the last words that David Livingstone wrote.</p>
+
+<p>From this point we have to trust entirely to the narrative of the men.
+They explain the above sentence as follows: Saliman&eacute;, Amisi, Hamsani,
+and Laed&eacute;, accompanied by a guide, were sent off to endeavour if
+possible to buy some milch goats on the upper part of the Molilamo.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34" /><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>
+They could not, however, succeed; it was always the same story&mdash;the
+Mazitu had taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, sent a substantial
+present of a kid and three baskets of ground-nuts, and the people were
+willing enough to exchange food for beads. Thinking he could eat some
+Mapira corn pounded up with ground-nuts, the Doctor gave instructions to
+the two women M'sozi and M'toweka, to prepare it for him, but he was not
+able to take it when they brought it to him.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th April, 1873.</i>&mdash;Men were now despatched in an opposite direction,
+that is to visit the villages on the right bank of the Molilamo as it
+flows to the Lake; unfortunately they met with no better result, and
+returned empty handed.</p>
+
+<p>On the <i>29th April</i>, Kalunganjovu and most of his people came early to
+the village. The chief wished to assist his guest to the utmost, and
+stated that as he could not be sure that a sufficient number of canoes
+would be forthcoming unless he took charge of matters himself, he should
+accompany the caravan to the crossing place, which was about an <a name="Page_304" id="Page_304" />hour's
+march from the spot. &quot;Everything should be done for his friend,&quot; he
+said.</p>
+
+<p>They were ready to set out. On Susi's going to the hut, Dr. Livingstone
+told him that he was quite unable to walk to the door to reach the
+kitanda, and he wished the men to break down one side of the little
+house, as the entrance was too narrow to admit it, and in this manner to
+bring it to him where he was: this was done, and he was gently placed
+upon it, and borne out of the village.</p>
+
+<p>Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they followed it
+till they came to a reach where the current was uninterrupted by the
+numerous little islands which stood partly in the river and partly in
+the flood on the upper waters. Kalunganjovu was seated on a knoll, and
+actively superintended the embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone told his
+bearers to take him to a tree at a little distance off, that he might
+rest in the shade till most of the men were on the other side. A good
+deal of care was required, for the river, by no means a large one in
+ordinary times, spread its waters in all directions, so that a false
+step, or a stumble in any unseen hole, would have drenched the invalid
+and the bed also on which he was carried.</p>
+
+<p>The passage occupied some time, and then came the difficult task of
+conveying the Doctor across, for the canoes were not wide enough to
+allow the kitanda to be deposited in the bottom of either of them.
+Hitherto, no matter how weak, Livingstone had always been able to sit in
+the various canoes they had used on like occasions, but now he had no
+power to do so. Taking his bed off the kitanda, they laid it in the
+bottom of the strongest canoe, and tried to lift him; but he could not
+bear the pain of a hand being passed under his back. Beckoning to
+Chumah, in a faint voice he asked him to stoop down over him as low as
+possible, so that he might clasp his hands together behind his head,
+directing him at the same how to avoid <a name="Page_305" id="Page_305" />putting any pressure on the
+lumbar region of the back; in this way he was deposited in the bottom of
+the canoe, and quickly ferried across the Mulilamo by Chowp&eacute;r&eacute;, Susi,
+Farijala, and Chumah. The same precautions were used on the other side:
+the kitanda was brought close to the canoe, so as to prevent any
+unnecessary pain in disembarking.</p>
+
+<p>Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo's village, and superintend
+the building of another house. For the first mile or two they had to
+carry the Doctor through swamps and plashes, glad to reach something
+like a dry plain at last.</p>
+
+<p>It would seem that his strength was here at its very lowest ebb. Chumah,
+one of his bearers on these the last weary miles the great traveller was
+destined to accomplish, says that they were every now and then implored
+to stop and place their burden on the ground. So great were the pangs of
+his disease during this day that he could make no attempt to stand, and
+if lifted for a few yards a drowsiness came over him, which alarmed them
+all excessively. This was specially the case at one spot where a tree
+stood in the path. Here one of his attendants was called to him, and, on
+stooping down, he found him unable to speak from faintness. They
+replaced him in the kitanda, and made the best of their way on the
+journey. Some distance further on great thirst oppressed him; he asked
+them if they had any water, but, unfortunately for once, not a drop was
+to be procured. Hastening on for fear of getting too far separated from
+the party in advance, to their great comfort they now saw Farijala
+approaching with some which Susi had thoughtfully sent off from
+Chitambo's village.</p>
+
+<p>Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would not complete
+their task, for again at a clearing the sick man entreated them to place
+him on the ground, and to let him stay where he was. Fortunately at this
+moment some <a name="Page_306" id="Page_306" />of the outlying huts of the village came in sight, and they
+tried to rally him by telling him that he would quickly be in the house
+that the others had gone on to build, but they were obliged as it was to
+allow him to remain for an hour in the native gardens outside the town.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching their companions it was found that the work was not quite
+finished, and it became necessary therefore to lay him under the broad
+eaves of a native hut till things were ready.</p>
+
+<p>Chitambo's village at this time was almost empty. When the crops are
+growing it is the custom to erect little temporary houses in the fields,
+and the inhabitants, leaving their more substantial huts, pass the time
+in watching their crops, which are scarcely more safe by day than by
+night; thus it was that the men found plenty of room and shelter ready
+to their hand. Many of the people approached the spot where he lay whose
+praises had reached them in previous years, and in silent wonder they
+stood round him resting on their bows. Slight drizzling showers were
+falling, and as soon as possible his house was made ready and banked
+round with earth.</p>
+
+<p>Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and grass,
+occuping a position across and near to the bay-shaped end of the hut: in
+the bay itself bales and boxes were deposited, one of the latter doing
+duty for a table, on which the medicine chest and sundry other things
+were placed. A fire was lighted outside, nearly opposite the door,
+whilst the boy Majwara slept just within to attend to his master's wants
+in the night.</p>
+
+<p>On the <i>30th April, 1873,</i> Chitambo came early to pay a visit of
+courtesy, and was shown into the Doctor's presence, but he was obliged
+to send him away, telling him to come again on the morrow, when he hoped
+to have more strength to talk to him, and he was not again disturbed. In
+the afternoon he asked Susi to bring his watch to the bedside, <a name="Page_307" id="Page_307" />and
+explained to him the position in which to hold his hand, that it might
+lie in the palm whilst he slowly turned the key.</p>
+
+<p>So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently took to their
+huts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep watch, sat round the
+fires, all feeling that the end could not be far off. About 11 P.M.
+Susi, whose hut was close by, was told to go to his master. At the time
+there were loud shouts in the distance, and, on entering, Dr.
+Livingstone said, &quot;Are our men making that noise?&quot; &quot;No,&quot; replied Susi;
+&quot;I can hear from the cries that the people are scaring away a buffalo
+from their dura fields.&quot; A few minutes afterwards he said slowly, and
+evidently wandering, &quot;Is this the Luapula?&quot; Susi told him they were in
+Chitambo's village, near the Mulilamo, when he was silent for a while.
+Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he said, &quot;Sikun'gapi
+kuenda Luapula?&quot; (How many days is it to the Luapula?)</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Na zani zikutatu, Bwana&quot; (I think it is three days, master), replied
+Susi.</p>
+
+<p>A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed, half said, &quot;Oh
+dear, dear!&quot; and then dozed off again.</p>
+
+<p>It was about an hour later that Susi heard Majwara again outside the
+door, &quot;Bwana wants you, Susi.&quot; On reaching the bed the Doctor told him
+he wished him to boil some water, and for this purpose he went to the
+fire outside, and soon returned with the copper kettle full. Calling him
+close, he asked him to bring his medicine-chest and to hold the candle
+near him, for the man noticed he could hardly see. With great difficulty
+Dr. Livingstone selected the calomel, which he told him to place by his
+side; then, directing him to pour a little water into a cup, and to put
+another empty one by it, he said in a low feeble voice, &quot;All right; you
+can go out now.&quot; These were the last words he was ever heard to speak.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308" />It must have been about 4 A.M. when Susi heard Majwara's step once
+more. &quot;Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don't know if he is alive.&quot; The
+lad's evident alarm made Susi run to arouse Chumah, Chowper&eacute;, Matthew,
+and Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute;, and the six men went immediately to the hut.</p>
+
+<p>Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Livingstone was not
+lying on it, but appeared to be engaged in prayer, and they
+instinctively drew backwards for the instant. Pointing to him, Majwara
+said, &quot;When I lay down he was just as he is now, and it is because I
+find that he does not move that I fear he is dead.&quot; They asked the lad
+how long he had slept? Majwara said he could not tell, but he was sure
+that it was some considerable time: the men drew nearer.</p>
+
+<p>A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box, shed a light
+sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Livingstone was kneeling by the
+side of his bed, his body stretched forward, his head buried in his
+hands upon the pillow. For a minute they watched him: he did not stir,
+there was no sign of breathing; then one of them, Matthew, advanced
+softly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was sufficient;
+life had been extinct some time, and the body was almost cold:
+Livingstone was dead.</p>
+
+<p>His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up, and laid him full
+length on the bed, then, carefully covering him, they went out into the
+damp night air to consult together. It was not long before the cocks
+crew, and it is from this circumstance&mdash;coupled with the fact that Susi
+spoke to him some time shortly before midnight&mdash;that we are able to
+state with tolerable certainty that he expired early on the 1st of May.</p>
+
+<p>It has been thought best to give the narrative of these closing hours as
+nearly as possible in the words of the two men who attended him
+constantly, both here and in the many illnesses of like character which
+he endured in <a name="Page_309" id="Page_309" />his last six years' wanderings; in fact from the first
+moment of the news arriving in England, it was felt to be indispensable
+that they should come home to state what occurred.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The men have much to consider as they cower around the watch-fire, and
+little time for deliberation. They are at their furthest point from home
+and their leader has fallen at their head; we shall see presently how
+they faced their difficulties.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Several inquiries will naturally arise on reading this distressing
+history; the foremost, perhaps, will be with regard to the entire
+absence of everything like a parting word to those immediately about
+him, or a farewell line to his family and friends at home. It must be
+very evident to the reader that Livingstone entertained very grave
+forebodings about his health during the last two years of his life, but
+it is not clear that he realized the near approach of death when his
+malady suddenly passed into a more dangerous stage.</p>
+
+<p>It may be said, &quot;Why did he not take some precautions or give some
+strict injunctions to his men to preserve his note-books and maps, at
+all hazards, in the event of his decease? Did not his great ruling
+passion suggest some such precaution?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Fair questions, but, reader, you have all&mdash;every word written, spoken,
+or implied.</p>
+
+<p>Is there, then, no explanation? Yes; we think past experience affords
+it, and it is offered to you by one who remembers moreover how
+Livingstone himself used to point out to him in Africa the peculiar
+features of death by malarial poisoning.</p>
+
+<p>In full recollection of eight deaths in the Zambesi and Shir&eacute; districts,
+not a single parting word or direction in any instance can be recalled.
+Neither hope nor courage give way as death approaches. In most cases a
+comatose state of <a name="Page_310" id="Page_310" />exhaustion supervenes, which, if it be not quickly
+arrested by active measures, passes into complete insensibility: this is
+almost invariably the closing scene.</p>
+
+<p>In Dr. Livingstone's case we find some departure from the ordinary
+symptoms.<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35" /><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> He, as we have seen by the entry of the 18th April was
+alive to the conviction that malarial poison is the basis of every
+disorder in Tropical Africa, and he did not doubt but that he was fully
+under its influence whilst suffering so severely. As we have said, a man
+of less endurance in all probability would have perished in the first
+week of the terrible approach to the Lake, through the flooded country
+and under the continual downpour that he describes. It tried every
+constitution, saturated every man with fever poison, and destroyed
+several, as we shall see a little further on. The greater vitality in
+his iron system very likely staved off for a few days the last state of
+coma to which we refer, but there is quite sufficient to show us that
+only a thin margin lay between the heavy drowsiness of the last few days
+before reaching Chitambo's and the final and usual symptom that brings
+on unconsciousness and inability to speak.</p>
+
+<p>On more closely questioning the men one only elicits that they imagine
+he hoped to recover as he had so often done before, and if this really
+was the case it will in a measure account for the absence of anything
+like a dying statement, but still they speak again and again of his
+drowsiness, which in itself would take away all ability to realize
+vividly the seriousness of the situation. It may be that at the last a
+flash of conviction for a moment lit up the mind&mdash;if so, what greater
+consolation can those have who mourn his loss, than the account that the
+men give of what they saw when they entered the hut?</p>
+
+<p>Livingstone had not merely turned himself, he had risen<a name="Page_311" id="Page_311" />to pray; he
+still rested on his knees, his hands were clasped under his head: when
+they approached him he seemed to live. He had not fallen to right or
+left when he rendered up his spirit to God. Death required no change of
+limb or position; there was merely the gentle settling forwards of the
+frame unstrung by pain, for the Traveller's perfect rest had come. Will
+not time show that the men were scarcely wrong when they thought &quot;he yet
+speaketh&quot;&mdash;aye, perhaps far more clearly to us than he could have done
+by word or pen or any other means!</p>
+
+<p>Is it, then, presumptuous to think that the long-used fervent prayer of
+the wanderer sped forth once more&mdash;that the constant supplication became
+more perfect in weakness, and that from his &quot;loneliness&quot; David
+Livingstone, with a dying effort, yet again besought Him for whom He
+laboured to break down the oppression and woe of the land?</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Before daylight the men were quietly told in each hut what had happened,
+and that they were to assemble. Coming together as soon as it was light
+enough to see, Susi and Chumah said that they wished everybody to be
+present whilst the boxes were opened, so that in case money or valuables
+were in them, all might be responsible. Jacob Wainwright (who could
+write, they knew) was asked to make some notes which should serve as an
+inventory, and then the boxes were brought out from the hut.</p>
+
+<p>Before he left England in 1865, Dr. Livingstone arranged that his
+travelling equipment should be as compact as possible. An old friend
+gave him some exceedingly well-made tin-boxes, two of which lasted out
+the whole of his travels. In these his papers and instruments were safe
+from wet and from white ants, which have to be guarded against more than
+anything else. Besides the articles mentioned below, a number of letters
+and despatches in various stages were likewise enclosed, and one can
+never sufficiently extol <a name="Page_312" id="Page_312" />the good feeling which after his death
+invested all these writings with something like a sacred care in the
+estimation of his men. It was the Doctor's custom to carry a small
+metallic note-book in his pocket: a quantity of these have come to hand
+filled from end to end, and as the men preserved every one that they
+found, we have a daily entry to fall back upon. Nor was less care shown
+for his rifles, sextants, his Bible and Church-service, and the medicine
+chest.</p>
+
+<p>Jacob's entry is as follows, and it was thoughtfully made at the back
+end of the same note-book that was in use by the Doctor when he died. It
+runs as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;11 o'clock night, 28th April.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;In the chest was found about a shilling and half, and in other chest
+his hat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of measuring instrument, and in each
+box there was one. 1 compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument. 4
+other kind of measuring instrument. And in other chest 3 drachmas and
+half half scrople.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A word is necessary concerning the first part of this. It will be
+observed that Dr. Livingstone made his last note on the 27th April.
+Jacob, referring to it as the only indication of the day of the month,
+and fancying, moreover, that it was written on the <i>preceding day,</i>
+wrote down &quot;28th April.&quot; Had he observed that the few words opposite the
+27th in the pocket-book related to the stay at Kalunganjovu's village,
+and not to any portion of the time at Chitambo's, the error would have
+been avoided. Again, with respect to the time. It was about 11 o'clock
+P.M. when Susi last saw his master alive, and therefore this time is
+noted, but both he and Chumah feel quite sure, from what Majwara said,
+that death did not take place till some hours after.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313" />It was not without some alarm that the men realised their more
+immediate difficulties: none could see better than they what
+complications might arise in an hour.</p>
+
+<p>They knew the superstitious horror connected with the dead to be
+prevalent in the tribes around them, for the departed spirits of men are
+universally believed to have vengeance and mischief at heart as their
+ruling idea in the land beyond the grave. All rites turn on this belief.
+The religion of the African is a weary attempt to propitiate those who
+show themselves to be still able to haunt and destroy, as war comes or
+an accident happens.</p>
+
+<p>On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief and people make
+common cause against those who wander through their territory, and have
+the misfortune to lose one of their party by death. Who is to tell the
+consequences? Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences,
+and the men regarded their position with no small apprehension.</p>
+
+<p>Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chumah placed the state of
+affairs before them, and asked what should be done. They received a
+reply from those whom Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, which
+was hearty and unanimous. &quot;You,&quot; said they, &quot;are old men in travelling
+and in hardships; you must act as our chiefs, and we will promise to
+obey whatever you order us to do.&quot; From this moment we may look on Susi
+and Chumah as the Captains of the caravan. To their knowledge of the
+country, of the tribes through which they were to pass, but, above all,
+to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was maintained throughout,
+their safe return to Zanzibar at the head of their men must, under God's
+good guidance, be mainly attributed.</p>
+
+<p>All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance of Dr.
+Livingstone's decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy would be inflicted
+upon them as compensation for damage <a name="Page_314" id="Page_314" />done that their means would be
+crippled, and they could hardly expect to pay their way to the coast. It
+was decided that, come what might, the body <i>must be borne to Zanzibar.</i>
+It was also arranged to take it secretly, if possible, to a hut at some
+distance off, where the necessary preparations could be carried out, and
+for this purpose some men were now despatched with axes to cut wood,
+whilst others went to collect grass. Chumah set off to see Chitambo, and
+said that they wanted to build a place outside the village, if he would
+allow it, for they did not like living amongst the huts. His consent was
+willingly given.</p>
+
+<p>Later on in the day two of the men went to the people to buy food, and
+divulged the secret: the chief was at once informed of what had
+happened, and started for the spot on which the new buildings were being
+set up. Appealing to Chumah, he said, &quot;Why did you not tell me the
+truth? I know that your master died last night. You were afraid to let
+me know, but do not fear any longer. I, too, have travelled, and more
+than once have been to Bwani (the Coast), before the country on the road
+was destroyed by the Mazitu. I know that you have no bad motives in
+coming to our land, and death often happens to travellers in their
+journeys.&quot; Reassured by this speech, they told him of their intention to
+prepare the body and to take it with them. He, however, said it would be
+far better to bury it there, for they were undertaking an impossible
+task; but they held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to the
+new hut the same day on the kitanda carefully covered with cloth and a
+blanket.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd May, 1873.</i>&mdash;The next morning Susi paid a visit to Chitambo, making
+him a handsome present and receiving in return a kind welcome. It is
+only right to add, that the men speak on all occasions with gratitude of
+Chitambo's conduct throughout, and say that he is a fine generous
+fellow. Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all <a name="Page_315" id="Page_315" />honours
+should be shown to the dead, and the customary mourning was arranged
+forthwith.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a name="fp315" id="fp315" />
+<img src="images/fp315.jpg" width="550" height="317" alt="Temporary Village in which Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Body was prepared" title="Temporary Village in which Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Body was prepared" />
+<b>Temporary Village in which Dr. Livingstone&#39;s Body was prepared</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people, and accompanied by his
+wives, came to the new settlement. He was clad in a broad red cloth,
+which covered the shoulders, whilst the wrapping of native cotton cloth,
+worn round the waist, fell as low as his ankles. All carried bows,
+arrows, and spears, but no guns were seen. Two drummers joined in the
+loud wailing lamentation, which so indelibly impresses itself on the
+memories of people who have heard it in the East, whilst the band of
+servants fired volley after volley in the air, according to the strict
+rule of Portuguese and Arabs on such occasions.</p>
+
+<p>As yet nothing had been done to the corpse.</p>
+
+<p>A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the principal one.
+It was constructed in such a manner that it should be open to the air at
+the top, and sufficiently strong to defy the attempts of any wild beast
+to break through it. Firmly driven boughs and saplings were planted side
+by side and bound together, so as to make a regular stockade. Close to
+this building the men constructed their huts, and, finally, the whole
+settlement had another high stockade carried completely around it.</p>
+
+<p>Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse on the following
+morning. One of the men, Saf&eacute;n&eacute;, whilst in Kalunganjovu's district,
+bought a large quantity of salt: this was purchased of him for sixteen
+strings of beads, there was besides some brandy in the Doctor's stores,
+and with these few materials they hoped to succeed in their object.</p>
+
+<p>Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had picked up some
+knowledge of the method pursued in making <i>post-mortem</i> examinations,
+whilst a servant to a doctor at Zanzibar, and at his request, Carras,
+one of the Nassick boys, was told off to assist him. Previous to this,
+<a name="Page_316" id="Page_316" />however, early on the 3rd May, a special mourner arrived. He came with
+the anklets which are worn on these occasions, composed of rows of
+hollow seed-vessels, fitted with rattling pebbles, and in low monotonous
+chant sang, whilst he danced, as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>L&eacute;lo kwa Eng&eacute;r&eacute;s&eacute;,<br /></span>
+<span>Muana sisi oa konda:<br /></span>
+<span>Tu kamb' tamb' Eng&eacute;r&eacute;s&eacute;.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span>which translated is&mdash;<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span>To-day the Englishman is dead,<br /></span>
+<span>Who has different hair from ours:<br /></span>
+<span>Come round to see the Englishman.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied him in the
+ceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads.</p>
+
+<p>The emaciated remains of the deceased traveller were soon afterwards
+taken to the place prepared. Over the heads of Farijala and
+Carras&mdash;Susi, Chumah, and Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute; held a thick blanket as a kind of
+screen, under which the men performed their duties. Tofik&eacute; and John
+Wainwright were present. Jacob Wainwright had been asked to bring his
+Prayer Book with him, and stood apart against the wall of the enclosure.</p>
+
+<p>In reading about the lingering sufferings of Dr. Livingstone as
+described by himself, and subsequently by these faithful fellows, one is
+quite prepared to understand their explanation, and to see why it was
+possible to defer these operations so long after death: they say that
+his frame was little more than skin and bone. Through an incision
+carefully made, the viscera were removed, and a quantity of salt was
+placed in the trunk. All noticed one very significant circumstance in
+the autopsy. A clot of coagulated blood, as large as a man's hand, lay
+in the left side,<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36" /><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> whilst Farijala<a name="Page_317" id="Page_317" />pointed to the state of the lungs,
+which they describe as dried up, and covered with black and white
+patches.</p>
+
+<p>The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed in a tin box, which
+had formerly contained flour, and decently and reverently buried in a
+hole dug some four feet deep on the spot where they stood. Jacob was
+then asked to read the Burial Service, which he did in the presence of
+all. The body was left to be fully exposed to the sun. No other means
+were taken to preserve it, beyond placing some brandy in the mouth and
+some on the hair; nor can one imagine for an instant that any other
+process would have been available either for Europeans or natives,
+considering the rude appliances at their disposal. The men kept watch
+day and night to see that no harm came to their sacred charge. Their
+huts surrounded the building, and had force been used to enter its
+strongly-barred door, the whole camp would have turned out in a moment.
+Once a day the position of the body was changed, but at no other time
+was any one allowed to approach it.</p>
+
+<p>No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen days'
+exposure. At the end of this period preparations were made for retracing
+their steps. The corpse, by this time tolerably dried, was wrapped round
+in some calico, the leg being bent inwards at the knees to shorten the
+package. The next thing was to plan something in which to carry it, and,
+in the absence of planking or tools, an admirable substitute was found
+by stripping from a Myonga tree enough of the bark in one piece to form
+a cylinder, and in it their master was laid. Over this case a piece of
+sailcloth was sewn, and the whole package was lashed securely to a pole,
+so as to be carried by two men.</p>
+
+<p>Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription on the large Mvula
+tree which stands by the place where the body rested, stating the name
+of Dr. Livingstone and the date of his death, and, before leaving, the
+men gave <a name="Page_318" id="Page_318" />strict injunctions to Chitambo to keep the grass cleared away,
+so as to save it from the bush-fires which annually sweep over the
+country and destroy so many trees. Besides this, they erected close to
+the spot two high thick posts, with an equally strong cross-piece, like
+a lintel and door-posts in form, which they painted thoroughly with the
+tar that was intended for the boat: this sign they think will remain for
+a long time from the solidity of the timber. Before parting with
+Chitambo, they gave him a large tin biscuit-box and some newspapers,
+which would serve as evidence to all future travellers that a white man
+had been at his village.</p>
+
+<p>The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the tree and the
+timber sign-posts from being touched, but added, that he hoped the
+English would not be long in coming to see him, because there was always
+the risk of an invasion of Mazitu, when he would have to fly, and the
+tree might be cut down for a canoe by some one, and then all trace would
+be lost. All was now ready for starting.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33" /><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Two hours and a quarter in a south-westerly direction.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34" /><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> The name Molilamo is allowed to stand, but in Dr.
+Livingstone's Map we find it Lulimala, and the men confirm, this
+pronunciation.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35" /><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> The great loss of blood may have had a bearing on the
+case.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36" /><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> It has been suggested by one who attended Dr. Livingstone
+professionally in several dangerous illnesses in Africa, that the
+ultimate cause of death was acute splenitis.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII" /><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319" />CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'Kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyemb&eacute;. Chumah
+    meets Lieutenant Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding
+    remarks.</p></div>
+
+
+<p>The homeward march was then begun. Throughout its length we shall
+content ourselves with giving the approximate number of days occupied in
+travelling and halting. Although the memories of both men are
+excellent&mdash;standing the severest test when they are tried by the light
+of Dr. Livingstone's journals, or &quot;set on&quot; at any passage of his
+travels&mdash;they kept no precise record of the time spent at villages where
+they were detained by sickness, and so the exactness of a diary can no
+longer be sustained.</p>
+
+<p>To return to the caravan. They found on this the first day's journey
+that some other precautions were necessary to enable the bearers of the
+mournful burden to keep to their task. Sending to Chitambo's village,
+they brought thence the cask of tar which they had deposited with the
+chief, and gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This <a name="Page_320" id="Page_320" />answered
+all purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, with orders
+to send it back to head-quarters, and then continued their course
+through Ilala, led by their guides in the direction of the Luapula.</p>
+
+<p>A moment's inspection of the map will explain the line of country to be
+traversed. Susi and Chumah had travelled with Dr. Livingstone in the
+neighbourhood of the north-west shores of Bangweolo in previous years.
+The last fatal road from the north might be struck by a march in a due
+N.E. direction, if they could but hold out so far without any serious
+misfortune; but in order to do this they must first strike northwards so
+as to reach the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part not
+necessarily far from its exit from the Lake, they could at once lay
+their course for the south end of Tanganyika.</p>
+
+<p>There were, however, serious indications amongst them. First one and
+then the other dropped out of the file, and by the time they reached a
+town belonging to Chitambo's brother&mdash;and on the third day only since
+they set out&mdash;half their number were <i>hors de combat</i>. It was impossible
+to go on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The symptoms were
+intense pain in the limbs and face, great prostration, and, in the bad
+cases, inability to move. The men attributed it to the continual wading
+through water before the Doctor's death. They think that illness had
+been waiting for some further slight provocation, and that the previous
+days' tramp, which was almost entirely through plashy Bougas or swamps,
+turned the scale against them.</p>
+
+<p>Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one leg, and then
+quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly died. Kaniki and Bahati,
+two of the women, expired in a few days, and all looked at its worst. It
+took them a good month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and the natives
+day by day brought an abundance of food to the <a name="Page_321" id="Page_321" />sick men. From them they
+heard that the districts they were now in were notoriously unhealthy,
+and that many an Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave his
+bones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an excursion to
+the westward, and on their return reported a large deep river flowing
+into the Luapula on the left bank. Unfortunately no notice was taken of
+its name, for it would be of considerable geographical interest.</p>
+
+<p>At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of the border
+villages in Ilala the same night, but the next day several fell ill for
+the second time, Susi being quite unable to move.</p>
+
+<p>Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, was fully aware of
+everything that had taken place at Chitambo's, and showed the men the
+greatest kindness. Not a day passed without his bringing them some
+present or other, but there was a great disinclination amongst the
+people to listen to any details connected with Dr. Livingstone's death.
+Some return for their kindness was made by Farijala shooting three
+buffaloes near the town: meat and goodwill go together all over Africa,
+and the liberal sportsman scores points at many a turn. A cow was
+purchased here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twentieth
+day all were sufficiently strong on their legs to push forwards.</p>
+
+<p>The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon hove in sight.
+Putting themselves under a guide, they were conducted to the village of
+Chisalamalama, who willingly offered them canoes for the passage across
+the next day.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37" /><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a></p>
+
+<p>As one listens to the report that the men give of this <a name="Page_322" id="Page_322" />mighty river, he
+instinctively bends his eyes on a dark burden laid in the canoe! How
+ardently would he have scanned it whose body thus passes across these
+waters, and whose spirit, in its last hours' sojourn in this world,
+wandered in thought and imagination to its stream!</p>
+
+<p>It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the width of the
+Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of fully four miles. A man
+could not be seen on the opposite bank: trees looked small: a gun could
+be heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across the
+river&mdash;such is the description given by men who were well able to
+compare the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they were
+able to use the &quot;m'phondo,&quot; or punting pole, for a distance through
+reeds, then came clear deep water for some four hundred yards, again a
+broad reedy expanse, followed by another deep part, succeeded in turn by
+another current not so broad as those previously paddled across, and
+then, as on the starting side, gradually shoaling water, abounding in
+reeds. Two islands lay just above the crossing-place. Using pole and
+paddle alternately, the passage took them fully two hours across this
+enormous torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo towards the
+north.</p>
+
+<p>A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping beyond the
+Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant was doomed to end
+his career at this spot!</p>
+
+<p>According to custom, a special stable was built for him close to the
+men. In the middle of the night a great disturbance, coupled with the
+shouting of Amoda, aroused the camp. The men rushed out and found the
+stable broken down and the donkey gone. Snatching, some logs, they set
+fire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a lion
+close to the body of the poor animal, which was quite dead. Those who
+had caught up their guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and the
+lion made off. <a name="Page_323" id="Page_323" />It was evident that the donkey had been seized by the
+nose, and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the guns
+had taken effect. The lion's blood lay in a broad track (for he was
+apparently injured in the back, and could only drag himself along); but
+the footprints of a second lion were too plain to make it advisable to
+track him far in the thick cover he had reached, and so the search was
+abandoned. The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes
+remained near the village, and it is most probable that it went to make
+a feast at Chisalamalama's.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="p323" id="p323" />
+<img src="images/p323.jpg" width="400" height="334" alt="An old Servant destroyed." title="An old Servant destroyed." />
+<b>An old Servant destroyed.</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were fain to make
+their next stopping-place in a spot where an enormous ant-hill spread
+itself out,&mdash;a small island in the waters. A fire was lit, and by
+employing hoes, most of <a name="Page_324" id="Page_324" />them dug something like a form to sleep in on
+the hard earth.</p>
+
+<p>Thankful to leave such a place, their guide led them next day to the
+village of Kawinga, whom they describe as a tall man, of singularly
+light colour, and the owner of a gun, a unique weapon in these parts,
+but one already made useless by wear and tear. The next village,
+N'kossu's, was much more important. The people, called Kawend&eacute;, formerly
+owned plenty of cattle, but now they are reduced: the Banyamwesi have
+put them under the harrow, and but few herds remain. We may call
+attention to the somewhat singular fact, that the hump quite disappears
+in the Lake breed; the cows would pass for respectable shorthorns.<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38" /><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a></p>
+
+<p>A present was made to the caravan of a cow; but it seems that the rule,
+&quot;first catch your hare,&quot; is in full force in N'kossu's pastures. The
+animals are exceedingly wild, and a hunt has to be set on foot whenever
+beef is wanted; it was so in this case. Saf&eacute;n&eacute; and Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute; with their
+guns essayed to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old hunter as we
+have seen, was not likely to do much harm; but Saf&eacute;n&eacute;, firing wildly at
+the cow, hit one of the villagers, and smashed the bone of the poor
+fellow's thigh. Although it was clearly an accident, such things do not
+readily settle themselves down on this assumption in Africa. The chief,
+however, behaved very well. He told them a fine would have to be paid on
+the return of the wounded man's father, and it had better be handed to
+him, for by law the blame would fall on him, as the entertainer of the
+man who had brought about the injury. He admitted that he had <a name="Page_325" id="Page_325" />ordered
+all his people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred,
+but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been heard.
+They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond to the demand; the
+process adopted to set the broken limb is a sample of native surgery,
+which must not be passed over.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="p325" id="p325" />
+<img src="images/p325.jpg" width="400" height="365" alt="Kawend&eacute; Surgery." title="Kawend&eacute; Surgery." />
+<b>Kawend&eacute; Surgery.</b>
+</div>
+
+<p>First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in length, in
+such a manner that the patient could sit in it with his legs out before
+him. A large leaf was then bound round the fractured thigh, and earth
+thrown in, so that the patient was buried up to the chest. The next act
+was to cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick <a name="Page_326" id="Page_326" />layer
+of mud; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire lit
+on the top directly over the fracture. To prevent the smoke smothering
+the sufferer, they held a tall mat as a screen before his face, and the
+operation went on. After some time the heat reached the limbs
+underground. Bellowing with fear and covered with perspiration, the man
+implored them to let him out. The authorities concluding that he had
+been under treatment a sufficient time, quickly burrowed down and lifted
+him from the hole. He was now held perfectly fast, whilst two strong men
+stretched the wounded limb with all their might! Splints, duly prepared
+were afterwards bound round it, and we must hope that in due time
+benefit accrued, but as the ball had passed through the limb, we must
+have our doubts on the subject. The villagers told Chuma that after the
+Wanyamwesi engagements they constantly treated bad gunshot-wounds in
+this way with perfect success.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving N'kossu's, they rested one night at another village belonging to
+him, and then made for the territory of the Wa Ussi. Here they met with
+a surly welcome, and were told they must pass on. No doubt the
+intelligence that they were carrying their master's body had a great
+deal to do with it, for the news seemed to spread with the greatest
+rapidity in all directions. Three times they camped in the forest, and
+for a wonder began to find some dry ground. The path lay in the direct
+line of Chawend&eacute;'s town, parallel to the north shore of the Lake, and at
+no great distance from it.</p>
+
+<p>Some time previously a solitary Unyamwesi had attached himself to the
+party at Chitankooi's, where he had been left sick by a passing caravan
+of traders: this man now assured them the country before them was well
+known to him.</p>
+
+<p>Approaching Chawend&eacute;'s, according to native etiquette, Amoda and Sabouri
+went on in front to inform the chief, and to ask leave to enter his
+town. As they did not come <a name="Page_327" id="Page_327" />back, Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute; and Chuma set off after
+them to ascertain the reason of the delay. No better success seemed to
+attend this second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all went
+forward in the track of the four messengers.</p>
+
+<p>In the mean time, Chuma and Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute; met Amoda and Sabouri coming back
+towards them with five men. They reported that they had entered the
+town, but found it a very large stockaded place; moreover, two other
+villages of equal size were close to it. Much pombe drinking was going
+on. On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his gun against the
+principal hut innocently enough. Chawend&eacute;'s son, drunk and quarrelsome,
+made this a cause of offence, and swaggering up, he insolently asked
+them how they dared to do such a thing. Chawend&eacute; interfered, and for the
+moment prevented further disagreeables; in fact, he himself seems to
+have been inclined to grant the favour which was asked: however, there
+was danger brewing, and the men retired.</p>
+
+<p>When the main body met them returning, tired with their fruitless
+errand, a consultation took place. Wood there was none. To scatter about
+and find materials with which to build shelter for the night, would only
+offer a great temptation to these drunken excited people to plunder the
+baggage. It was resolved to make for the town.</p>
+
+<p>When they reached the gate of the stockade they were flatly refused
+admittance, those inside telling them to go down to the river and camp
+on the bank. They replied that this was impossible: that they were
+tired, it was very late, and nothing could be found there to give them
+shelter. Meeting with no different answer, Saf&eacute;n&eacute; said, &quot;Why stand
+talking to them? let us get in somehow or other;&quot; and, suiting the
+action to the word, they pushed the men back who stood in the gateway.
+Saf&eacute;n&eacute; got through, and Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute; climbed over the top of the stockade,
+followed by Chuma, who instantly opened the gate wide and let his
+<a name="Page_328" id="Page_328" />companions through. Hostilities might still have been averted had
+better counsel prevailed.</p>
+
+<p>The men began to look about for huts in which to deposit their things,
+when the same drunken fellow drew a bow and fired at Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute;. The man
+called out to the others to seize him, which was done in an instant. A
+loud cry now burst forth that the chief's son was in danger, and one of
+the people, hurling a spear, wounded Sabouri slightly in the thigh: this
+was the signal for a general scrimmage.</p>
+
+<p>Chawend&eacute;'s men fled from the town; the drums beat the assembly in all
+directions, and an immense number flocked to the spot from the two
+neighbouring villages, armed with their bows, arrows, and spears. An
+assault instantly began from the outside. N'chis&eacute; was shot with an arrow
+in the shoulder through the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. Things
+were becoming desperate. Putting the body of Dr. Livingstone and all
+their goods and chattels in one hut, they charged out of the town, and
+fired on the assailants, killing two and wounding several others.
+Fearing that they would only gather together in the other remaining
+villages and renew the attack at night, the men carried these quickly
+one by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built on the
+same side of the river, then crossing over, they fired on the canoes
+which were speeding towards the deep water of Bangweolo, through the
+channel of the Lopupussi, with disastrous results to the fugitive
+people.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. By the fortunes
+of war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense quantity of food fell into
+their hands; and they remained for a week to recruit. Once or twice they
+found men approaching at night to throw fire on the roofs of the huts
+from outside, but with this exception they were not interfered with. On
+the last day but one a man approached and called to them at the top of
+his voice not to set fire to the <a name="Page_329" id="Page_329" />chief's town (it was his that they
+occupied); for the bad son had brought all this upon them; he added that
+the old man had been overruled, and they were sorry enough for his bad
+conduct.</p>
+
+<p>Listening to the account given of this occurrence, one cannot but lament
+the loss of life and the whole circumstances of the fight. Whilst on the
+one hand we may imagine that the loss of a cool, conciliatory, brave
+leader was here felt in a grave degree, we must also see that it was
+known far and wide that this very loss was now a great weakness to his
+followers. There is no surer sign of mischief in Africa than these
+trumpery charges of bewitching houses by placing things on them: some
+such over-strained accusation is generally set in the front rank when
+other difficulties are to come: drunkenness is pretty much the same
+thing in all parts of the world, and gathers misery around it as easily
+in an African village as in an English city. Had the cort&eacute;ge submitted
+to extortion and insult, they felt that their night by the river would
+have been a precarious one&mdash;even if they had been in a humour to sleep
+in a swamp when a town was at hand. These things gave occasion to them
+to resort to force. The desperate nature of their whole enterprise in
+starting for Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own stock of
+determination, and now it found vent under evil provocation. If there is
+room for any other feeling than regret, it lies in the fact that, on
+mature consideration and in sober moments, the people who suffered, cast
+the real blame on the right shoulders.</p>
+
+<p>For the next three days after leaving Chawend&eacute;'s they were still in the
+same inundated fringe of Bouga, which surrounds the Lake, and on each
+occasion had to camp at nightfall wherever a resting-place could be
+found in the jungle, reaching Chama's village on the fourth day. A delay
+of forty-eight hours was necessary, as Susi's wife <a name="Page_330" id="Page_330" />fell ill; and for
+the next few marches she was carried in a kitanda. They met an Unyamwesi
+man here, who had come from Kumbakumba's town in the Wa Ussi district.
+He related to them how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried to
+carry Chawend&eacute;'s town by assault, but had been repulsed both times. It
+would seem that, with the strong footing these invaders have in the
+country, armed as they are besides with the much-dreaded guns, it can
+only be a matter of time before the whole rule, such as it is, passes
+into the hands of the new-comers.</p>
+
+<p>The next night was spent in the open, before coming to the scattered
+huts of Ngumbu's, where a motley group of stragglers, for the most part
+Wabisa, were busy felling the trees and clearing the land for
+cultivation. However, the little community gave them a welcome, in spite
+of the widespread report of the fighting at Chawend&eacute;'s, and dancing and
+drumming were kept up till morning.</p>
+
+<p>One more night was passed in the plain, and they reached a tributary of
+the Lopupussi River, called the M'Pamba; it is a considerable stream,
+and takes one up to the chest in crossing. They now drew near to
+Chiwaie's town, which they describe as a very strong place, fortified
+with a stockade and ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagers
+tried to pick a quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was their
+invariable custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, march at their head,
+whilst the Union Jack and the red colours of Zanzibar were carried in a
+foremost place in the line. Fortunately a chief of some importance came
+up and stopped the discussion, or there might have been more mischief,
+for the men were in no temper to lower their flag, knowing their own
+strength pretty well by this time. Making their settlement close to
+Chiwaie's, they met with much kindness, and were visited by crowds of
+the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's <a name="Page_331" id="Page_331" />village; sleeping
+two nights in the jungle they made Chungu's, and in another day's march
+found themselves, to their great delight, at Kapesha's. They knew their
+road from this point, for on the southern route with Dr. Livingstone
+they had stopped here, and could therefore take up the path that leads
+to Tanganyika. Hitherto their course had been easterly, with a little
+northing, but now they turned their backs to the Lake, which they had
+held on the right-hand since crossing the Luapula, and struck almost
+north.</p>
+
+<p>From Kapesha's to Lake Bangweolo is a three days' march as the crow
+flies, for a man carrying a burden. They saw a large quantity of iron
+and copper wire being made here by a party of Wanyamwesi. The process is
+as follows:&mdash;A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped hole in it, is
+firmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is then thrust into it,
+and a line attached to the first few inches which can be coaxed through.
+A number of men haul on this line, singing and dancing in tune, and thus
+it is drawn through the first drill; it is subsequently passed through
+others to render it still finer, and excellent wire is the result.
+Leaving Kapesha they went through many of the villages already
+enumerated in Dr. Livingstone's Diary. Chama's people came to see them
+as they passed by him, and after some mutterings and growlings Casongo
+gave them leave to buy food at his town. Reaching Chama's head-quarters
+they camped outside, and received a civil message, telling them to
+convey his orders to the people on the banks of the Kalongwesi that the
+travellers must be ferried safely across. They found great fear and
+misery prevailing in the neighbourhood from the constant raids made by
+Kumbakumba's men.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the Kalangw&eacute;s&eacute; behind them they made for M'sama's son's town,
+meeting four men on the way who were going from Kumbakumba to Chama to
+beat up recruits for an attack on the Katanga people. The request was
+sure to <a name="Page_332" id="Page_332" />be met with alarm and refusal, but it served very well to act
+the part taken by the wolf in the fable. A grievance would immediately
+be made of it, and Chama &quot;eaten up&quot; in due course for daring to gainsay
+the stronger man. Such is too frequently the course of native
+oppression. At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight. Already the large
+district of Itawa has tacitly allowed itself to be put under the harrow
+by this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab. Black-mail is levied in all directions,
+and the petty chiefs, although really under tribute to Nsama, are
+sagacious enough to keep in with the powers that be. Kumbakumba showed
+the men a storehouse full of elephants' tusks. A small detachment was
+sent off to try and gain tidings of one of the Nassick boys, John, who
+had mysteriously disappeared a day or two previously on the march. At
+the time no great apprehensions were felt, but as he did not turn up the
+grass was set on fire in order that he might see the smoke if he had
+wandered, and guns were fired. Some think he purposely went off rather
+than carry a load any further; whilst others fear he may have been
+killed. Certain it is that after a five days' search in all directions
+no tidings could be gained either here or at Chama's, and nothing more
+was heard of the poor fellow.</p>
+
+<p>Numbers of slaves were collected here. On one occasion they saw five
+gangs bound neck to neck by chains, and working in the gardens outside
+the towns.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The talk was still about the break up of Casembe's power, for it will be
+recollected that Kumbakumba and Pemba Motu had killed him a short time
+before; but by far the most interesting news that reached them was that
+a party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on their way to
+relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio some months previously.</p>
+
+<p>The chief showed them every kindness during their five <a name="Page_333" id="Page_333" />days' rest, and
+was most anxious that no mishap should by any chance occur to their
+principal charge. He warned them to beware of hy&aelig;nas, at night more
+especially, as the quarter in which they had camped had no stockade
+round it as yet.</p>
+
+<p>Marching was now much easier, and the men quickly found they had crossed
+the watershed. The Lovu ran in front of them on its way to Tanganyika.
+The Kalongwes&eacute;, we have seen, flows to Lake Moero in the opposite
+direction. More to their purpose it was perhaps to find the terror of
+Kumbakumba dying away as they travelled in a north-easterly direction,
+and came amongst the Mwambi. As yet no invasion had taken place. A young
+chief, Chungu, did all he could for them, for when the Doctor explored
+these regions before, Chungu had been much impressed with him: and now,
+throwing off all the native superstition, he looked on the arrival of
+the dead body as a cause of real sorrow.</p>
+
+<p>Asoumani had some luck in hunting, and a fine buffalo was killed near
+the town. According to native game laws (which in some respects are
+exceedingly strict in Africa), Chungu had a right to a fore leg&mdash;had it
+been an elephant the tusk next the ground would have been his, past all
+doubt&mdash;in this instance, however, the men sent in a plea that theirs was
+no ordinary case, and that hunger had laws of its own; they begged to be
+allowed to keep the whole carcase, and Chungu not only listened to their
+story, but willingly waived his claim to the chief's share.</p>
+
+<p>It is to be hoped that these sons of Tafuna, the head and father of the
+Amambwi a lungu, may hold their own. They seem a superior race, and this
+man is described as a worthy leader. His brothers Kasonso, Chitimbwa,
+Somb&eacute;, and their sister Mombo, are all notorious for their reverence for
+Tafuna. In their villages an abundance of coloured homespun cloth speaks
+for their industry; whilst from the numbers of dogs and elephant-spears
+no further testimony is <a name="Page_334" id="Page_334" />needed to show that the character they bear as
+great hunters is well deserved.</p>
+
+<p>The steep descent to the Lake now lay before them, and they came to
+Kasakalaw&eacute;'s. Here it was that the Doctor had passed weary months of
+illness on his first approach to Tanganyika in previous years. The
+village contained but few of its old inhabitants, but those few received
+them hospitably enough and mourned the loss of him who had been so well
+appreciated when alive. So they journeyed on day by day till the
+southern end of the Lake was rounded.</p>
+
+<p>The previous experience of the difficult route along the heights
+bordering on Tanganyika made them determine to give the Lake a wide
+berth this time, and for this purpose they held well to the eastward,
+passing a number of small deserted villages, in one of which they camped
+nearly every night. It was necessary to go through the Fipa country, but
+they learnt from one man and another that the chief, Kafoofi, was very
+anxious that the body should not be brought near to his town&mdash;indeed, a
+guide was purposely thrown in their way who led them past it by a
+considerable d&eacute;tour. Kafoofi stands well with the coast Arabs. One,
+Ngombesassi by name, was at the time living with him, accompanied by his
+retinue of slaves. He had collected a very large quantity of ivory
+further in the interior, but dared not approach nearer at present to
+Unyanyemb&eacute; with it to risk the chance of meeting one of Mirambo's
+hordes.</p>
+
+<p>This road across the plain seems incomparably the best, No difficulty
+whatever was experienced, and one cannot but lament the toil and
+weariness which Dr. Livingstone endured whilst holding a course close to
+Tanganyika, although one must bear in mind that by no other means at the
+time could he complete his survey of this great inland sea, or acquaint
+us with its harbours, its bays, and the rivers which <a name="Page_335" id="Page_335" />find their way
+into it on the east; these are details which will prove of value when
+small vessels come to navigate it in the future.</p>
+
+<p>The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days' march over
+Lambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which crosses the country east
+and west, and attains, it would seem, an altitude of some 4000 feet.
+Looking down on the plain from its highest passes a vast lake appears to
+stretch away in front towards the north, but on descending this resolves
+itself into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with saline
+incrustations. The path lay directly across this. The difficulties they
+anticipated had no real existence, for small villages were found, and
+water was not scarce, although brackish. The first demand for toll was
+made near here, but the headman allowed them to pass for fourteen
+strings of beads. Susi says that this plain literally swarms with herds
+of game of all kinds: giraffe and zebra were particularly abundant, and
+lions revelled in such good quarters. The settlements they came to
+belonged chiefly to elephant hunters. Farijala and Muanyas&eacute;r&eacute; did well
+with the buffalo, and plenty of beef came into camp.</p>
+
+<p>They gained some particulars concerning a salt-water lake on their
+right, at no very considerable distance. It was reported to them to be
+smaller than Tanganyika, and goes by the name Bahari ya Muarooli&mdash;the
+sea of Muarooli&mdash;for such is the name of the paramount chief who lives
+on its shore, and if we mistake not the very Mer&eacute;r&eacute;, or his successor,
+about whom Dr. Livingstone from time to time showed such interest. They
+now approached the Likwa River, which flows to this inland sea: they
+describe it as a stream running breast high, with brackish water; little
+satisfaction was got by drinking from it.</p>
+
+<p>Just as they came to the Likwa, a long string of men was seen on the
+opposite side filing down to the water, and being uncertain of their
+intentions, precautions were quickly taken <a name="Page_336" id="Page_336" />to ensure the safety of the
+baggage. Dividing themselves into three parties, the first detachment
+went across to meet the strangers, carrying the Arab flag in front.
+Chuma headed another band at a little distance in the rear of these,
+whilst Susi and a few more crouched in the jungle, with the body
+concealed in a roughly-made hut. Their fears, however, were needless: it
+turned out to be a caravan bound for Fipa to hunt elephants and buy
+ivory and slaves. The new arrivals told them that they had come straight
+through Unyanyemb&eacute; from Bagamoio, on the coast, and that the Doctor's
+death had already been reported there by natives of Fipa.</p>
+
+<p>As we notice with what rapidity the evil tidings spread (for the men
+found that it had preceded them in all directions), one of the great
+anxieties connected with African travel and exploration seems to be
+rather increased than diminished. It shows us that it is never wise to
+turn an entirely deaf ear when the report of a disaster comes to hand,
+because in this instance the main facts were conveyed across country,
+striking the great arterial caravan route at Unyanyemb&eacute;, and getting at
+once into a channel that would ensure the intelligence reaching
+Zanzibar. On the other hand, false reports never lag on their
+journey:&mdash;how often has Livingstone been killed in former years! Nor is
+one's perplexity lessened by past experience, for we find the oldest and
+most sagacious travellers when consulted are, as a rule, no more to be
+depended on than the merest tyro in guessing.</p>
+
+<p>With no small satisfaction, the men learnt from the outward-bound
+caravan that the previous story was a true one, and they were assured
+that Dr. Livingstone's son with two Englishmen and a quantity of goods
+had already reached Unyanyemb&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>The country here showed all the appearance of a salt-pan: indeed a
+quantity of very good salt was collected by <a name="Page_337" id="Page_337" />one of the men, who thought
+he could turn an honest bunch of beads with it at Unyanyemb&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p>Petty tolls were levied on them. Kampama's deputy required four dotis,
+and an additional tax of six was paid to the chief of the Kanongo when
+his town was reached.</p>
+
+<p>The Lungwa River bowls away here towards Tanganyika. It is a quick
+tumbling stream, leaping amongst the rocks and boulders, and in its
+deeper pools it affords cool delight to schools of hippopotami. The men,
+who had hardly tasted good water since crossing Lambalamfipa, are loud
+in its praise. Muanyasere improved relations with the people at the next
+town by opportunely killing another buffalo, and all took a three days'
+rest. Yet another caravan met them, bound likewise for the interior, and
+adding further particulars about the Englishmen at Unyanyemb&eacute;. This
+quickened the pace till they found at one stage they were melting two
+days of the previous outward journey into one.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of the party, was
+commissioned to write an account of the distressing circumstances of the
+Doctor's death, and Chuma, taking three men with him, pressed on to
+deliver it to the English party in person. The rest of the cort&eacute;ge
+followed them through the jungle to Chilunda's village. On the outskirts
+they came across a number of Wagogo hunting elephants with dogs and
+spears, but although they were well treated by them, and received
+presents of honey and food, they thought it better to keep these men in
+ignorance of the fact that they were in charge of the dead body of their
+master.</p>
+
+<p>The Manyara River was crossed on its way to Tanganyika before they got
+to Chikooloo, Leaving this village behind them, they advanced to the
+Ugunda district, now ruled by Kalimangombi, the son of Mb&eacute;r&eacute;k&eacute;, the
+former chief, and so on to Kasek&eacute;ra, which, it will be remembered, is
+not far from Unyanyemb&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338" /><i>20th October, 1873.</i>&mdash;We will here run on ahead with Chuma on his way
+to communicate with the new arrivals. He reached the Arab settlement
+without let or hindrance. Lieut. Cameron was quickly put in possession
+of the main facts of Dr. Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter,
+and Chuma was questioned concerning it in the presence of Dr. Dillon and
+Lieut. Murphy. It was a disappointment to find that the reported arrival
+of Mr. Oswell Livingstone was entirely erroneous; but Lieut. Cameron
+showed the wayworn men every kindness. Chuma rested one day before
+setting out to relieve his comrades to whom he had arranged to make his
+way as soon as possible. Lieut. Cameron expressed a fear that it would
+not be safe for him to carry the cloth he was willing to furnish them
+with if he had not a stronger convoy, as he himself had suffered too
+sorely from terrified bearers on his way thither; but the young fellows
+were pretty well acquainted with native marauders by this time, and set
+off without apprehension.</p>
+
+<p>And now the greater part of their task is over. The weather-beaten
+company wind their way into the old well-known settlement of Kwihara. A
+host of Arabs and their attendant slaves meet them as they sorrowfully
+take their charge to the same Temb&eacute; in which the &quot;weary waiting&quot; was
+endured before, and then they submit to the systematic questioning which
+the native traveller is so well able to sustain.</p>
+
+<p>News in abundance was offered in return. The porters of the Livingstone
+East-Coast Aid Expedition had plenty to relate to the porters sent by
+Mr. Stanley. Mirambo's war dragged on its length, and matters had
+changed very little since they were there before, either for better or
+for worse. They found the English officers extremely short of goods; but
+Lieut. Cameron, no doubt with the object of his Expedition full in view,
+very properly felt it a first duty to relieve the wants of the party
+that had performed this <a name="Page_339" id="Page_339" />Herculean feat of bringing the body of the
+traveller he had been sent to relieve, together with every article
+belonging to him at the time of his death, as far as this main road to
+the coast.</p>
+
+<p>In talking to the men about their intentions, Lieut. Cameron had serious
+doubts whether the risk of taking the body of Dr. Livingstone through
+the Ugogo country ought to be run. It very naturally occurred to him
+that Dr. Livingstone might have felt a wish during life to be buried in
+the same land in which the remains of his wife lay, for it will be
+remembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shupanga, on the
+Zambesi. All this was put before the men, but they steadily adhered to
+their first conviction&mdash;that it was right at all risks to attempt to
+bear their master home, and therefore they were no longer urged to bury
+him at Kwihara.</p>
+
+<p>To the new comers it was of great interest to examine the boxes which
+the men had conveyed from Bangweolo. As we have seen, they had carefully
+packed up everything at Chitambo's&mdash;books, instruments, clothes, and all
+which would bear special interest in time to come from having been
+associated with Livingstone in his last hours.</p>
+
+<p>It cannot be conceded for a moment that these poor fellows would have
+been right in forbidding this examination, when we consider the relative
+position in which natives and English officers must always stand to each
+other; but it is a source of regret to relate that the chief part of
+Livingstone's instruments were taken out of the packages and
+appropriated for future purposes. The instruments with which all his
+observations had been made throughout a series of discoveries extending
+over seven years&mdash;aneroid barometers, compasses, thermometers, the
+sextant and other things, have gone on a new series of travels, to incur
+innumerable risks of loss, whilst one only of his thermometers comes to
+hand.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340" />We could well have wished these instruments safe in England with the
+small remnant of Livingstone's personal property, which was allowed to
+be shipped from Zanzibar.</p>
+
+<p>The Doctor had deposited four bales of cloth as a reserve stock with the
+Arabs, and these were immediately forthcoming for the march down.</p>
+
+<p>The termination here of the ill-fated Expedition need not be commented
+upon. One can only trust that Lieut. Cameron may be at liberty to pursue
+his separate investigations in the interior under more favourable
+auspices. The men seemed to anticipate his success, for he is generous
+and brave in the presence of the natives, and likely to win his way
+where others undoubtedly would have failed.</p>
+
+<p>Ill-health had stuck persistently to the party, and all the officers
+were suffering from the various forms of fever. Lieut. Cameron gave the
+men to understand that it was agreed Lieut. Murphy should return to
+Zanzibar, and asked if they could attach his party to their march; if
+so, the men who acted as carriers should receive 6 dollars a man for
+their services. This was agreed to. Susi had arranged that they should
+avoid the main path of the Wagogo; inasmuch, as if difficulty was to be
+encountered anywhere, it would arise amongst these lawless pugnacious
+people.</p>
+
+<p>By making a ten days' d&eacute;tour at &quot;Jua Singa,&quot; and travelling by a path
+well known to one of their party through the jungle of Poli ya vengi,
+they hoped to keep out of harm's way, and to be able to make the cloth
+hold out with which they were supplied. At length the start was
+effected, and Dr. Dillon likewise quitted the Expedition to return to
+the coast. It was necessary to stop after the first day's march, for a
+long halt; for one of the women was unable to travel, they found, and
+progress was delayed till she, the wife of Chowp&eacute;r&eacute;h, could resume the
+journey. There seem to have been some serious mis<a name="Page_341" id="Page_341" />understandings between
+the leaders of Dr. Livingstone's party and Lieut. Murphy soon after
+setting out, which turned mainly on the subject of beginning the day's
+march. The former, trained in the old discipline of their master, laid
+stress on the necessity of very early rising to avoid the heat of the
+day, and perhaps pointed out more bluntly than pleasantly that if the
+Englishmen wanted to improve their health, they had better do so too.
+However, to a certain extent, this was avoided by the two companies
+pleasing themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Making an early start, the body was carried to Kasek&eacute;ra, by Susi's party
+where, from an evident disinclination to receive it into the village, an
+encampment was made outside. A consultation now became necessary. There
+was no disguising the fact that, if they kept along the main road,
+intelligence would precede them concerning that in which they were
+engaged, stirring up certain hostility and jeopardising the most
+precious charge they had. A plan was quickly hit upon. Unobserved, the
+men removed the corpse of the deceased explorer from the package in
+which it had hitherto been conveyed, and buried the bark case in the hut
+in the thicket around the village in which they had placed it. The
+object now was to throw the villagers off their guard, by making believe
+that they had relinquished the attempt to carry the body to Zanzibar.
+They feigned that they had abandoned their task, having changed their
+minds, and that it must be sent back to Unyanyemb&eacute; to be buried there.
+In the mean time the corpse of necessity had to be concealed in the
+smallest space possible, if they were actually to convey it secretly for
+the future; this was quickly managed.</p>
+
+<p>Susi and Chuma went into the wood and stripped off a fresh length of
+bark from an N'gombe tree; in this the remains, conveniently prepared as
+to length, were placed, the whole being surrounded with calico in such
+<a name="Page_342" id="Page_342" />a manner as to appear like an ordinary travelling bale, which was then
+deposited with the rest of the goods. They next proceeded to gather a
+faggot of mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of six feet or so, and
+swathing them round with cloth to imitate a dead body about to be
+buried. This done, a paper, folded so as to represent a letter, was duly
+placed in a cleft stick, according to the native letter-carrier's
+custom, and six trustworthy men were told off ostensibly to go with the
+corpse to Unyanyemb&eacute;. With due solemnity the men set out; the villagers
+were only too thankful to see it, and no one suspected the ruse. It was
+near sundown. The bearers of the package held on their way, till fairly
+beyond all chance of detection, and then began to dispose of their load.
+The mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the jungle, and
+when all were disposed of, the wrappings were cunningly got rid of in
+the same way. Going further on, first one man, and then another, sprung
+clear from the path into the long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps,
+and the whole party returned by different ways to their companions, who
+had been anxiously awaiting them during the night. No one could detect
+the real nature of the ordinary-looking bale which, henceforth, was
+guarded with no relaxed vigilance, and eventually disclosed the bark
+coffin and wrappings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrival
+at Bagamoio. And now, devoid of fear, the people of Kasek&eacute;ra asked them
+all to come and take up their quarters in the town; a privilege which
+was denied them so long as it was known that they had the remains of the
+dead with them.</p>
+
+<p>But a dreadful event was about to recall to their minds how many fall
+victims to African disease!</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Dillon now came on to Kasek&eacute;ra suffering much from dysentery&mdash;a few
+hours more, and he shot himself in his tent by means of a loaded rifle.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343" />Those who knew the brave and generous spirit in which this hard-working
+volunteer set out with Lieut. Cameron, fully hoping to relieve Dr.
+Livingstone, will feel that he ended his life by an act alien indeed to
+his whole nature. The malaria imbibed during their stay at Unyanyemb&eacute;
+laid upon him the severest form of fever, accompanied by delirium, under
+which he at length succumbed in one of its violent paroxysms. His
+remains are interred at Kasek&eacute;ra.</p>
+
+<p>We must follow Susi's troop through a not altogether eventless journey
+to the sea. Some days afterwards, as they wended their way through a
+rocky place, a little girl in their train, named Losi, met her death in
+a shocking way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a water-jar
+on her head in the file of people, when an enormous snake dashed across
+the path, deliberately struck her in the thigh, and made for a hole in
+the jungle close at hand. This work of a moment was sufficient, for the
+poor girl fell mortally wounded. She was carried forward, and all means
+at hand were applied, but in less than ten minutes the last symptom
+(foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe.</p>
+
+<p>Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to prove the truth
+of an assertion made to travellers in many parts of Africa. The natives
+protest that one species of snake will deliberately chase and overtake
+his victim with lightning speed, and so dreadfully dangerous is it, both
+from the activity of its poison and its vicious propensities, that it is
+perilous to approach its quarters. Most singular to relate, an Arab came
+to some of the men after their arrival at Zanzibar and told them that he
+had just come by the Unyanyemb&eacute; road, and that, whilst passing the
+identical spot where this disaster occurred, one of the men was attacked
+by the same snake, with precisely the same results; in fact, when
+looking for a place in which to bury him they saw the grave of Losi, and
+the two lie side by side.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344" />Natal colonists will probably recognise the Mamba in this snake; it is
+much to be desired that specimens should be procured for purposes of
+comparison. In Southern Africa so great is the dread it inspires that
+the Kaffirs will break up a Kraal and forsake the place if a Mamba takes
+up his quarters in the vicinity, and, from what we have seen above, with
+no undue caution.</p>
+
+<p>Susi, to whom this snake is known in the Shupanga tongue as &quot;Bubu,&quot;
+describes it as about twelve feet long, dark in colour, of a dirty blue
+under the belly, with red markings like the wattles of a cock on the
+head. The Arabs go so far as to say that it is known to oppose the
+passage of a caravan at times. Twisting its tail round a branch, it will
+strike one man after another in the head with fatal certainty. Their
+remedy is to fill a pot with boiling water, which is put on the head and
+carried under the tree! The snake dashes his head into this and is
+killed&mdash;the story is given for what it is worth.</p>
+
+<p>It would seem that at Ujiji the natives, as in other places, cannot bear
+to have snakes killed. The &quot;Chatu,&quot; a species of python, is common, and,
+from being highly favoured, becomes so tame as to enter houses at night.
+A little meal is placed on the stool, which the uncanny visitor laps up,
+and then takes its departure&mdash;the men significantly say they never saw
+it with their own eyes. Another species utters a cry, much like the
+crowing of a young cock; this is well authenticated. Yet another black
+variety has a spine like a blackthorn at the end of the tail, and its
+bite is extremely deadly.</p>
+
+<p>At the same time it must be added that, considering the enormous number
+of reptiles in Africa, it rarely occurs that anyone is bitten, and a few
+months' residence suffices to dispel the dread which most travellers
+feel at the outset.</p>
+
+<p><i>February, 1874.</i>&mdash;No further incident occurred worthy of special
+notice. At last the coast town of Bagamoio came in sight, and before
+many hours were over, one of Her Majesty's <a name="Page_345" id="Page_345" />cruisers conveyed the Acting
+Consul, Captain Prideaux, from Zanzibar to the spot which the cort&eacute;ge
+had reached. Arrangements were quickly made for transporting the remains
+of Dr. Livingstone to the Island some thirty miles distant, and then it
+became perhaps rather too painfully plain to the men that their task was
+finished.</p>
+
+<p>One word on a subject which will commend itself to most before we close
+this long eventful history.</p>
+
+<p>We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, Nassick boys, and
+Shupanga canoemen, accompanied Dr. Livingstone when he started from
+Zanzibar in 1866 to enter upon his last discoveries: of all these, five
+only could answer to the roll-call as they handed over the dead body of
+their leader to his countrymen on the shore whither they had returned,
+and this after eight years' desperate service.</p>
+
+<p>Once more we repeat the names of these men. Susi and James Chuma have
+been sufficiently prominent throughout&mdash;hardly so perhaps has Amoda,
+their comrade ever since the Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abram
+and Mabruki, each with service to show from the time he left the Nassiok
+College with the Doctor in 1865. Nor must we forget Ntoa&eacute;ka and Halima,
+the two native girls of whom we have heard such a good character: they
+cast in their lot with the wanderers in Manyuema. It does seem strange
+to hear the men say that no sooner did they arrive at their journey's
+end than they were so far frowned out of notice, that not so much as a
+passage to the Island was offered them when their burden was borne away.
+We must hope that it is not too late&mdash;even for the sake of
+consistency&mdash;to put it on record that <i>whoever</i> assisted Livingstone,
+whether white or black, has not been overlooked in England. Surely those
+with whom he spent his last years must not pass away into Africa again
+unrewarded, and lost to sight.</p>
+
+<p>Yes, a very great deal is owing to these five men, and <a name="Page_346" id="Page_346" />we say it
+emphatically. If the nation has gratified a reasonable wish in learning
+all that concerns the last days on earth of a truly noble countryman and
+his wonderful enterprise, the means of doing so could never have been
+placed at our disposal but for the ready willingness which made Susi and
+Chuma determine, if possible, to render an account to some of those whom
+they had known as their master's old companions. If the Geographer finds
+before him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as Livingstone
+alone could record them, it is right and proper that he should feel the
+part these men have played in furnishing him with such valuable matter.
+For we repeat that nothing but such leadership and staunchness as that
+which organized the march home from Ilala, and distinguished it
+throughout, could have brought Livingstone's bones to our land or his
+last notes and maps to the outer world. To none does the feat seem so
+marvellous as to those who know Africa and the difficulties which must
+have beset both the first and the last in the enterprise. Thus in his
+death, not less than in his life, David Livingstone bore testimony to
+that goodwill and kindliness which exists in the heart of the African.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37" /><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> The men consider it five days' march &quot;only carrying a gun&quot;
+from the Molilamo to the bank of the Luapula&mdash;this in rough reckoning,
+at the rate of native travelling, would give a distance of say 120 to
+150 miles.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38" /><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> This comparison was got at from the remarks made by Susi
+and Chuma at an agricultural show; they pointed out the resemblance
+borne by the shorthorns and by the Alderney bulls to several breeds
+near Lake Bemba.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<h4>THE END.</h4>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="map" id="map" />
+<img src="images/map.jpg" width="600" height="501" alt="[Click to see full-resolution scan]" title="[Click to see full-resolution scan]" />
+<b>A Map of the Forest Plateau of Africa</b><br />[<a href="images/map-fr.jpg">Click</a> to see a full-resolution scan]
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David
+Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,11832 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in
+Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873
+       Continued By A Narrative Of His Last Moments And Sufferings,
+       Obtained From His Faithful Servants Chuma And Susi
+
+Author: David Livingstone
+
+Editor: Horace Waller
+
+Release Date: November 8, 2005 [EBook #17024]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DAVID LIVINGSTON, II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST JOURNALS
+
+OF
+
+DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
+
+IN CENTRAL AFRICA,
+FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH.
+
+CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OF
+HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS,
+OBTAINED FROM
+HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI
+
+BY HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.,
+RECTOR OF TWYWELL, NORTHAMPTON.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. II.
+[1869-1873]
+
+WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+LONDON:
+JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
+1874.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Reaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumbe. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moenekuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbe's ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resume of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of
+    comfort." Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird." The disease
+    "Safura."
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Merere. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarre. Goitre.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Part at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to
+    eat a white one." Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nyangwe. Reaches the Lualaba
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nyangwe on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomame.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm, of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusize. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyembe with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game.
+    Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness
+    at reaching Unyanyembe
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient Geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyamyembe. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir Samuel Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    Missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Short years in Buganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and Vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. High
+    mountains. Large Bay
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chitunkue's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chitunkue's. At the chiefs mercy. Agreeably
+    surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march.
+    Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out to
+    find villages. Message to Chirubwe. An ant raid. Awaits news
+    from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of Bangweolo.
+    Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and Chuma sent as
+    envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at Matipa's islet.
+    Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit. Tries to go on to
+    Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a demonstration. Solution of
+    the transport difficulty. Susi and detachment sent to Kabinga's.
+    Extraordinary extent of flood. Reaches Kabinga's. An upset.
+    Crosses the Chambeze. The River Muanakazi. They separate into
+    companies by land and water. A disconsolate lion. Singular
+    caterpillars. Observations on fish. Coasting along the southern
+    flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chuma's additional details. Great agony in his last illness.
+    Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill
+    of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses the Mohlamo
+    into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo's
+    village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last
+    night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account
+    of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the men.
+    Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is dead.
+    Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the men
+    wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation of
+    the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembe. Chuma
+    meets Lieut. Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks
+
+
+
+
+    ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+    Full-page Illustrations.
+
+     1. EVENING. ILALA. 29TH APRIL, 1873
+     2. UGUHA HEAD-DRESSES
+     3. CHUMA AND SUSI. (From a Photograph by MAULL & Co.)
+     4. MANYUEMA HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS
+     5. PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG SOKO
+     6. A DANGEROUS PRIZE
+     7. FACSIMILE OF A PORTION OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNAL
+     8. THE MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEMA WOMEN AT NYANGWE
+     9. THE MANYUEMA AMBUSH
+    10. "THE MAIN STREAM CAME UP TO SUSI'S MOUTH"
+    11. THE LAST MILES OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S TRAVELS
+    12. FISH EAGLE ON HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP
+    13. THE LAST ENTRY IN DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNALS
+    14. TEMPORARY VILLAGE IN WHICH DR. LIVINGSTONE'S BODY
+        WAS PREPARED
+
+
+    Smaller Illustrations.
+
+     1. LINES OF GREEN SCUM ON LAKE TANGANYIKA
+     2. MODE OF CATCHING ANTS
+     3. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S MOSQUITO CURTAIN
+     4. MATIPA AND HIS WIFE
+     5. AN OLD SERVANT DESTROYED
+     6. KAWENDE SURGERY
+
+
+    MAP OF CONJECTURAL GEOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL AFRICA,
+    FROM DR. LIVINGSTONE'S NOTES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of
+    Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor
+    is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls.
+    Beaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow
+    recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters.
+    Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake
+    Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the
+    Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in
+    Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East.
+    Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant
+    hunter's superstition. Dugumbe. The Lualaba reaches the
+    Manyuema. Sons of Moenekuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema
+    customs. Illness.
+
+
+[The new year opened badly enough, and from letters he wrote
+subsequently concerning the illness which now attacked him, we gather
+that it left evils behind, from which he never quite recovered. The
+following entries were made after he regained sufficient strength, but
+we see how short they necessarily were, and what labour it was to make
+the jottings which relate to his progress towards the western shore of
+Lake Tanganyika. He was not able at any time during this seizure to
+continue the minute maps of the country in his pocket-books, which for
+the first time fail here.]
+
+_1st January, 1869._--I have been wet times without number, but the
+wetting of yesterday was once too often: I felt very ill, but fearing
+that the Lofuko might flood, I resolved to cross it. Cold up to the
+waist, which made me worse, but I went on for 2-1/2 hours E.
+
+_3rd January, 1869._--I marched one hour, but found I was too ill to go
+further. Moving is always good in fever; now I had a pain in the chest,
+and rust of iron sputa: my lungs, my strongest part, were thus affected.
+We crossed a rill and built sheds, but I lost count of the days of the
+week and month after this. Very ill all over.
+
+_About 7th January, 1869._--Cannot walk: Pneumonia of right lung, and I
+cough all day and all night: sputa rust of iron and bloody: distressing
+weakness. Ideas flow through the mind with great rapidity and vividness,
+in groups of twos and threes: if I look at any piece of wood, the bark
+seems covered over with figures and faces of men, and they remain,
+though I look away and turn to the same spot again. I saw myself lying
+dead in the way to Ujiji, and all the letters I expected there useless.
+When I think of my children and friends, the lines ring through my head
+perpetually:
+
+    "I shall look into your faces,
+      And listen to what you say,
+    And be often very near you
+      When you think I'm far away."
+
+Mohamad Bogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who cupped my chest.
+
+_8th and 9th January, 1869._--Mohamad Bogharib offered to carry me. I am
+so weak I can scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper now--a pretty but
+steeply-undulating country. This is the first time in my life I have
+been carried in illness, but I cannot raise myself to the sitting
+posture. No food except a little gruel. Great distress in coughing all
+night long; feet swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on a
+kitanda or frame, like a cot; carried eight hours one day. Then sleep in
+a deep ravine. Next day six hours, over volcanic tufa; very rough. We
+seem near the brim of Tanganyika. Sixteen days of illness. May be 23rd
+of January; it is 5th of lunar month. Country very undulating; it is
+perpetually up and down. Soil red, and rich knolls of every size and
+form. Trees few. Erythrinas abound; so do elephants. Carried eight hours
+yesterday to a chief's village. Small sharp thorns hurt the men's feet,
+and so does the roughness of the ground. Though there is so much slope,
+water does not run quickly off Marungu. A compact mountain-range flanks
+the undulating country through which we passed, and may stop the water
+flowing. Mohamad Bogharib is very kind to me in my extreme weakness; but
+carriage is painful; head down and feet up alternates with feet down and
+head up; jolted up and down and sideways--changing shoulders involves a
+toss from one side to the other of the kitanda. The sun is vertical,
+blistering any part of the skin exposed, and I try to shelter my face
+and head as well as I can with a bunch of leaves, but it is dreadfully
+fatiguing in my weakness.
+
+I had a severe relapse after a very hot day. Mohamad gave me medicines;
+one was a sharp purgative, the others intended for the cure of the
+cough.
+
+_14th February, 1869._--Arrived at Tanganyika. Parra is the name of the
+land at the confluence of the River Lofuko: Syde bin Habib had two or
+three large canoes at this place, our beads were nearly done, so I sent
+to Syde to say that all the Arabs had served me except himself. Thani
+bin Suellim by his letter was anxious to send a canoe as soon as I
+reached the Lake, and the only service I wanted of Syde was to inform
+Thani, by one of his canoes, that I was here very ill, and if I did not
+get to Ujiji to get proper food and medicine I should die. Thani would
+send a canoe as soon as he knew of my arrival I was sure: he replied
+that he too would serve me: and sent some flour and two fowls: he would
+come in two days and see what he could do as to canoes.
+
+_15th February, 1869._--The cough and chest pain diminished, and I feel
+thankful; my body is greatly emaciated. Syde came to-day, and is
+favourable to sending me up to Ujiji. Thanks to the Great Father in
+Heaven.
+
+_24th February, 1869._--We had remarkably little rain these two months.
+
+_25th February, 1869._--I extracted twenty _Funyes_, an insect like a
+maggot, whose eggs had been inserted on my having been put into an old
+house infested by them; as they enlarge they stir about and impart a
+stinging sensation; if disturbed, the head is drawn in a little. When a
+poultice is put on they seem obliged to come out possibly from want of
+air: they can be pressed out, but the large pimple in which they live is
+painful; they were chiefly in my limbs.
+
+_26th February, 1869._--Embark, and sleep at Katonga after seven hours'
+paddling.
+
+_27th February, 1869._--Went 1-3/4 hour to Bondo or Thembwe to buy food.
+Shore very rough, like shores near Caprera, but here all is covered with
+vegetation. We were to cross to Kabogo, a large mass of mountains on the
+eastern side, but the wind was too high.
+
+_28th February, 1869._--Syde sent food back to his slaves.
+
+_2nd March, 1869._--Waves still high, so we got off only on _3rd_ at 1h.
+30m. A.M. 6-1/2 hours, and came to M. Bogharib, who cooked bountifully.
+
+_6th March, 1869._--5 P.M. Off to Toloka Bay--three hours; left at 6
+A.M., and came, in four hours, to Uguha, which is on the west side of
+Tanganyika.
+
+_7th March, 1869._--Left at 6 P.M., and went on till two canoes ran on
+rocks in the way to Kasanga islet. Rounded a point of land, and made for
+Kasanga with a storm in our teeth; fourteen hours in all. We were
+received by a young Arab Muscat, who dined us sumptuously at noon: there
+are seventeen islets in the Kasanga group.
+
+_8th March, 1869._--On Kasanga islet. Cochin-China fowls[1] and Muscovy
+ducks appear, and plenty of a small milkless breed of goats. Tanganyika
+has many deep bays running in four or five miles; they are choked up
+with aquatic vegetation, through which canoes can scarcely be propelled.
+When the bay has a small rivulet at its head, the water in the bay is
+decidedly brackish, though the rivulet be fresh, it made the Zanzibar
+people remark on the Lake water, "It is like that we get near the
+sea-shore--a little salt;" but as soon as we get out of the shut-in bay
+or lagoon into the Lake proper the water is quite sweet, and shows that
+a current flows through the middle of the Lake lengthways.
+
+Patience was never more needed than now: I am near Ujiji, but the slaves
+who paddle are tired, and no wonder; they keep up a roaring song all
+through their work, night and day. I expect to get medicine, food, and
+milk at Ujiji, but dawdle and do nothing. I have a good appetite, and
+sleep well; these are the favourable symptoms; but am dreadfully thin,
+bowels irregular, and I have no medicine. Sputa increases; hope to hold
+out to Ujiji. Cough worse. Hope to go to-morrow.
+
+_9th March, 1869._--The Whydah birds have at present light breasts and
+dark necks. Zahor is the name of our young Arab host.
+
+_11th March, 1869._--Go over to Kibize islet, 1-1/2 hour from Kasanga.
+Great care is taken not to encounter foul weather; we go a little way,
+then wait for fair wind in crossing to east side of Lake.
+
+_12th March, 1869._--People of Kibize dress like those in Rua, with
+cloth made of the Muabe or wild-date leaves; the same is used in
+Madagascar for the "lamba."[2] Their hair is collected up to the top of
+the head.
+
+From Kibize islet to Kabogo River on east side of Lake ten hours; sleep
+there. Syde slipped past us at night, but we made up to him in four
+hours next morning.
+
+_13th March, 1869._--At Rombole; we sleep, then on.
+
+[At last he reached the great Arab settlement at Ujiji, on the eastern
+shore of Tanganyika. It was his first visit, but he had arranged that
+supplies should be forwarded thither by caravans bound inland from
+Zanzibar. Most unfortunately his goods were made away with in all
+directions--not only on this, but on several other occasions. The
+disappointment to a man shattered in health, and craving for letters and
+stores, must have been severe indeed.]
+
+_14th March, 1869._--Go past Malagarasi River, and reach Ujiji in 3-1/2
+hours. Found Haji Thani's agent in charge of my remaining goods.
+Medicines, wine, and cheese had been left at Unyanyembe, thirteen days
+east of this. Milk not to be had, as the cows had not calved, but a
+present of Assam tea from Mr. Black, the Inspector of the Peninsular and
+Oriental Company's affairs, had come from Calcutta, besides my own
+coffee and a little sugar. I bought butter; two large pots are sold for
+two fathoms of blue calico, and four-year-old flour, with which we made
+bread. I found great benefit from the tea and coffee, and still more
+from flannel to the skin.
+
+_15th March, 1869._--Took account of all the goods left by the
+plunderer; sixty-two out of eighty pieces of cloth (each of twenty-four
+yards) were stolen, and most of my best beads. The road to Unyembe[3] is
+blocked up by a Mazitu or Watuta war, so I must wait till the Governor
+there gets an opportunity to send them. The Musa sent with the buffaloes
+is a genuine specimen of the ill-conditioned, English-hating Arab. I was
+accosted on arriving by, "You must give me five dollars a month for all
+my time;" this though he had brought nothing--the buffaloes all
+died--and did nothing but receive stolen goods. I tried to make use of
+him to go a mile every second day for milk, but he shammed sickness so
+often on that day I had to get another to go; then he made a regular
+practice of coming into my house, watching what my two attendants were
+doing, and going about the village with distorted statements against
+them.
+
+I clothed him, but he tried to make bad blood between the respectable
+Arab who supplied me with milk and myself, telling him that I abused
+him, and then he would come back, saying that he abused me! I can
+account for his conduct only by attributing it to that which we call
+ill-conditioned: I had to expel him from the house.
+
+I repaired a house to keep out the rain, and on the _23rd_ moved into
+it. I gave our Kasanga host a cloth and blanket; he is ill of pneumonia
+of both lungs.
+
+_28th March, 1869._--Flannel to the skin and tea very beneficial in the
+cure of my disease; my cough has ceased, and I walk half a mile. I am
+writing letters for home.
+
+_8th April, 1869._--Visited Moene Mokaia, who sent me two fowls and
+rice; gave him two cloths. He added a sheep.
+
+_13th April, 1869._--Employed Suleyman to write notes to Governor of
+Unyembe, Syde bin Salem Burashid, to make inquiries about the theft of
+my goods, as I meant to apply to Syed Majid, and wished to speak truly
+about his man Musa bin Salum, the chief depredator.
+
+Wrote also to Thani for boat and crew to go down Tanganyika.
+
+Syde bin Habib refused to allow his men to carry my letters to the
+coast; as he suspected that I would write about his doings in Rua.
+
+_27th April, 1869._--Syde had three canoes smashed in coming up past
+Thembwe; the wind and waves drove them on the rocks, and two were
+totally destroyed: they are heavy unmanageable craft, and at the mercy
+of any storm if they cannot get into a shut bay, behind the reeds and
+aquatic vegetation. One of the wrecks is said to have been worth 200
+dollars (40_l._).
+
+The season called Masika commenced this month with the usual rolling
+thunder, and more rain than in the month preceding.
+
+I have been busy writing letters home, and finished forty-two, which in
+some measure will make up for my long silence. The Ujijians are
+unwilling to carry my letters, because, they say, Seyed Majid will order
+the bearer to return with others: he may say, "You know where he is, go
+back to him," but I suspect they fear my exposure of their ways more
+than anything else.[4]
+
+_16th May, 1869._--Thani bin Suellim sent me a note yesterday to say
+that he would be here in two days, or say three; he seems the most
+active of the Ujijians, and I trust will help me to get a canoe and men.
+
+The malachite at Katanga is loosened by fire, then dug out of four
+hills: four manehs of the ore yield one maneh of copper, but those who
+cultivate the soil get more wealth than those who mine the copper.
+
+[No change of purpose was allowed to grow out of sickness and
+disappointment. Here and there, as in the words written on the next day,
+we find Livingstone again with his back turned to the coast and gazing
+towards the land of the Manyuema and the great rivers reported there.]
+_17th May, 1869._--Syde bin Habib arrived to-day with his cargo of
+copper and slaves. I have to change house again, and wish I were away,
+now that I am getting stronger. Attendants arrive from Parra or Mparra.
+
+[The old slave-dealer, whom he met at Casembe's, and who seems to have
+been set at liberty through Livingstone's instrumentality, arrives at
+Ujiji at last.]
+
+_18th May, 1869._--Mohamad bin Saleh arrived to-day. He left this when
+comparatively young, and is now well advanced in years.
+
+The Bakatala at Lualaba West killed Salem bin Habib. _Mem._--Keep clear
+of them. Makwamba is one of the chiefs of the rock-dwellers, Ngulu is
+another, and Masika-Kitobwe on to Baluba. Sef attached Kilolo N'tambwe.
+
+_19th May, 1869._--The emancipation of our West-Indian slaves was the
+work of but a small number of the people of England--the philanthropists
+and all the more advanced thinkers of the age. Numerically they were a
+very small minority of the population, and powerful only from the
+superior abilities of the leading men, and from having the right, the
+true, and just on their side. Of the rest of the population an immense
+number were the indifferent, who had no sympathies to spare for any
+beyond their own fireside circles. In the course of time sensation
+writers came up on the surface of society, and by way of originality
+they condemned almost every measure and person of the past.
+"Emancipation was a mistake;" and these fast writers drew along with
+them a large body, who would fain be slaveholders themselves. We must
+never lose sight of the fact that though the majority perhaps are on the
+side of freedom, large numbers of Englishmen are not slaveholders only
+because the law forbids the practice. In this proclivity we see a great
+part of the reason of the frantic sympathy of thousands with the rebels
+in the great Black war in America. It is true that we do sympathize
+with brave men, though we may not approve of the objects for which they
+fight. We admired Stonewall Jackson as a modern type of Cromwell's
+Ironsides; and we praised Lee for his generalship, which, after all, was
+chiefly conspicuous by the absence of commanding abilities in his
+opponents, but, unquestionably, there existed besides an eager desire
+that slaveocracy might prosper, and the Negro go to the wall. The
+would-be slaveholders showed their leanings unmistakably in reference to
+the Jamaica outbreak; and many a would-be Colonel Hobbs, in lack of
+revolvers, dipped his pen in gall and railed against all Niggers who
+could not be made slaves. We wonder what they thought of their hero,
+when informed that, for very shame at what he had done and written, he
+had rushed unbidden out of the world.
+
+_26th May, 1869._--Thani bin Suellim came from Unyanyembe on the 20th.
+He is a slave who has risen to freedom and influence; he has a
+disagreeable outward squint of the right eye, teeth protruding from the
+averted lips, is light-coloured, and of the nervous type of African. He
+brought two light boxes from Unyembe, and charged six fathoms for one
+and eight fathoms for the other, though the carriage of both had been
+paid for at Zanzibar. When I paid him he tried to steal, and succeeded
+with one cloth by slipping it into the hands of a slave. I gave him two
+cloths and a double blanket as a present. He discovered afterwards what
+he knew before, that all had been injured by the wet on the way here,
+and sent two back openly, which all saw to be an insult. He asked a
+little coffee, and I gave a plateful; and he even sent again for more
+coffee after I had seen reason to resent his sending back my present. I
+replied, "He won't send coffee back, for I shall give him none." In
+revenge he sends round to warn all the Ujijians against taking my
+letters to the coast; this is in accordance with their previous conduct,
+for, like the Kilwa people on the road to Nyassa, they have refused to
+carry my correspondence.
+
+This is a den of the worst kind of slave-traders; those whom I met in
+Urungu and Itawa were gentlemen slavers: the Ujiji slavers, like the
+Kilwa and Portuguese, are the vilest of the vile. It is not a trade, but
+a system of consecutive murders; they go to plunder and kidnap, and
+every trading trip is nothing but a foray. Moene Mokaia, the headman of
+this place, sent canoes through to Nzige, and his people, feeling their
+prowess among men ignorant of guns, made a regular assault but were
+repulsed, and the whole, twenty in number, were killed. Moene Mokaia is
+now negotiating with Syde bin Habib to go and revenge this, for so much
+ivory, and all he can get besides. Syde, by trying to revenge the death
+of Salem bin Habib, his brother, on the Bakatala, has blocked up one
+part of the country against me, and will probably block Nzige, for I
+cannot get a message sent to Chowambe by anyone, and may have to go to
+Karagwe on foot, and then from Rumanyika down to this water.
+
+[In reference to the above we may add that there is a vocabulary of
+Masai words at the end of a memorandum-book. Livingstone compiled this
+with the idea that it would prove useful on his way towards the coast,
+should he eventually pass through the Masai country. No doubt some of
+the Arabs or their slaves knew the language, and assisted him at his
+work.]
+
+_29th May, 1869._--Many people went off to Unyembe, and their houses
+were untenanted; I wished one, as I was in a lean-to of Zahor's, but the
+two headmen tried to secure the rent for themselves, and were defeated
+by Mohamad bin Saleh. I took my packet of letters to Thani, and gave two
+cloths and four bunches of beads to the man who was to take them to
+Unyanyembe; an hour afterwards, letters, cloths, and beads were
+returned: Thani said he was afraid of English letters; he did not know
+what was inside. I had sewed them up in a piece of canvas, that was
+suspicious, and he would call all the great men of Ujiji and ask them if
+it would be safe to take them; if they assented he would call for the
+letters, if not he would not send them. I told Mohamad bin Saleh, and he
+said to Thani that he and I were men of the Government, and orders had
+come from Syed Majid to treat me with all respect: was this conduct
+respectful? Thani then sent for the packet, but whether it will reach
+Zanzibar I am doubtful. I gave the rent to the owner of the house and
+went into it on 31st May. They are nearly all miserable Suaheli at
+Ujiji, and have neither the manners nor the sense of Arabs.
+
+[We see in the next few lines how satisfied Livingstone was concerning
+the current in the Lake: he almost wishes to call Tanganyika _a river_.
+Here then is a problem left for the future explorer to determine.
+Although the Doctor proved by experiments during his lengthy stay at
+Ujiji that the set is towards the north, his two men get over the
+difficulty thus: "If you blow upon the surface of a basin of water on
+one side, you will cause the water at last to revolve round and round;
+so with Tanganyika, the prevailing winds produce a similar
+circulation.". They feel certain there is no outlet, because at one time
+or another they virtually completed the survey of the coast line and
+listened to native testimony besides. How the phenomenon of sweet water
+is to be accounted for we do not pretend to say. The reader will see
+further on that Livingstone grapples with the difficulty which this Lake
+affords, and propounds an exceedingly clever theory.]
+
+Tanganyika has encroached on the Ujiji side upwards of a mile, and the
+bank, which was in the memory of men now living, garden ground, is
+covered with about two fathoms of water: in this Tanganyika resembles
+most other rivers in this country, as the Upper Zambesi for instance,
+which in the Barotse country has been wearing eastwards for the last
+thirty years: this Lake, or river, has worn eastwards too.
+
+_1st June, 1869._--I am thankful to feel getting strong again, and wish
+to go down Tanganyika, but cannot get men: two months must elapse ere we
+can face the long grass and superabundant water in the way to Manyuema.
+
+[Illustration: Lines of Green Scum]
+
+The green scum which forms on still water in this country is of
+vegetable origin--confervae. When the rains fall they swell the lagoons,
+and the scum is swept into the Lake; here it is borne along by the
+current from south to north, and arranged in long lines, which bend from
+side to side as the water flows, but always N.N.W. or N.N.E., and not
+driven, as here, by the winds, as plants floating above the level of the
+water would be.
+
+_7th June, 1869._--It is remarkable that all the Ujiji Arabs who have
+any opinion on the subject, believe that all the water in the north, and
+all the water in the south, too, flows into Tanganyika, but where it
+then goes they have no conjecture. They assert, as a matter of fact,
+that Tanganyika, Usige water, and Loanda, are one and the same piece of
+river.
+
+Thani, on being applied to for men and a canoe to take me down this line
+of drainage, consented, but let me know that his people would go no
+further than Uvira, and then return. He subsequently said Usige, but I
+wished to know what I was to do when left at the very point where I
+should be most in need. He replied, in his silly way, "My people are
+afraid; they won't go further; get country people," &c. Moeneghere sent
+men to Loanda to force a passage through, but his people were repulsed
+and twenty killed.
+
+Three men came yesterday from Mokamba, the greatest chief in Usige,
+with four tusks as a present to his friend Moeneghere, and asking for
+canoes to be sent down to the end of Urundi country to bring butter and
+other things, which the three men could not bring: this seems an
+opening, for Mokamba being Moeneghere's friend I shall prefer paying
+Moeneghere for a canoe to being dependent on Thani's skulkers. If the
+way beyond Mokamba is blocked up by the fatal skirmish referred to, I
+can go from Mokamba to Rumanyika, three or four or more days distant,
+and get guides from him to lead me back to the main river beyond Loanda,
+and by this plan only three days of the stream will be passed over
+unvisited. Thani would evidently like to receive the payment, but
+without securing to me the object for which I pay. He is a poor thing, a
+slaveling: Syed Majid, Sheikh Suleiman, and Koroje, have all written to
+him, urging an assisting deportment in vain: I never see him but he begs
+something, and gives nothing, I suppose he expects me to beg from him. I
+shall be guided by Moeneghere.
+
+I cannot find anyone who knows where the outflow of the unvisited Lake
+S.W. of this goes; some think that it goes to the Western Ocean, or, I
+should say, the Congo. Mohamad Bogharib goes in a month to Manyuema, but
+if matters turn out as I wish, I may explore this Tanganyika line first.
+One who has been in Manyuema three times, and was of the first party
+that ever went there, says that the Manyuema are not cannibals, but a
+tribe west of them eats some parts of the bodies of those slain in war.
+Some people south of Moenekuss[5], chief of Manyuema, build strong clay
+houses.
+
+_22nd June, 1869._--After listening to a great deal of talk I have come
+to the conclusion that I had better not go with Moeneghere's people to
+Mokamba. I see that it is to be a mulcting, as in Speke's case: I am to
+give largely, though I am not thereby assured of getting down the river.
+They say, "You must give much, because you are a great man: Mokamba will
+say so"--though Mokamba knows nothing about me! It is uncertain whether
+I can get down through by Loanda, and great risk would be run in going
+to those who cut off the party of Moeneghere, so I have come to the
+conclusion that it will be better for me to go to Manyuema about a
+fortnight hence, and, if possible, trace down the western arm of the
+Nile to the north--if this arm is indeed that of the Nile, and not of
+the Congo. Nobody here knows anything about it, or, indeed, about the
+eastern or Tanganyika line either; they all confess that they have but
+one question in their minds in going anywhere, they ask for ivory and
+for nothing else, and each trip ends as a foray. Moeneghere's last trip
+ended disastrously, twenty-six of his men being cut off; in extenuation
+he says that it was not his war but Mokamba's: he wished to be allowed
+to go down through Loanda, and as the people in front of Mokamba and
+Usige own his supremacy, he said, "Send your force with mine and let us
+open the way," so they went on land and were killed. An attempt was made
+to induce Syde bin Habib to clear the way, and be paid in ivory, but
+Syde likes to battle with those who will soon run away and leave the
+spoil to him.
+
+The Manyuema are said to be friendly where they have not been attacked
+by Arabs: a great chief is reported as living on a large river flowing
+northwards, I hope to make my way to him, and I feel exhilarated at the
+thought of getting among people not spoiled by contact with Arab
+traders. I would not hesitate to run the risk of getting through Loanda,
+the continuation of Usige beyond Mokamba's, had blood not been shed so
+very recently there; but it would at present be a great danger, and to
+explore some sixty miles of the Tanganyika line only. If I return
+hither from Manyuema my goods and fresh men from Zanzibar will have
+arrived, and I shall be better able to judge as to the course to be
+pursued after that. Mokamba is about twenty, miles beyond Uvira; the
+scene of Moeneghere's defeat, is ten miles beyond Mokamba; so the
+unexplored part cannot be over sixty miles, say thirty if we take
+Baker's estimate of the southing of his water to be near the truth.
+
+Salem or Palamotto told me that he was sent for by a headman near to
+this to fight his brother for him: he went and demanded prepayment; then
+the brother sent him three tusks to refrain: Salem took them and came
+home. The Africans have had hard measures meted out to them in the
+world's history!
+
+_28th June, 1869._--The current in Tanganyika is well marked when the
+lighter-coloured water of a river flows in and does not at once mix--the
+Luishe at Ujiji is a good example, and it shows by large light greenish
+patches on the surface a current of nearly a mile an hour north. It
+begins to flow about February, and continues running north till November
+or December. Evaporation on 300 miles of the south is then at its
+strongest, and water begins to flow gently south till arrested by the
+flood of the great rains there, which takes place in February and March.
+There is, it seems, a reflux for about three months in each year, flow
+and reflow being the effect of the rains and evaporation on a lacustrine
+river of some three hundred miles in length lying south of the equator.
+The flow northwards I have myself observed, that again southwards rests
+on native testimony, and it was elicited from the Arabs by pointing out
+the northern current: they attributed the southern current to the effect
+of the wind, which they say then blows south. Being cooled by the rains,
+it comes south into the hot valley of this great Riverein Lake, or
+lacustrine river.
+
+In going to Moenekuss, the paramount chief of the Manyuema, forty days
+are required. The headmen of trading parties remain with this chief (who
+is said by all to be a very good man), and send their people out in all
+directions to trade. Moenemogaia says that in going due north from
+Moenekuss they come to a large river, the Robumba, which flows into and
+is the Luama, and that this again joins the Lualaba, which retains its
+name after flowing with the Lufira and Lofu into the still unvisited
+Lake S.S.W. of this: it goes thence due north, probably into Mr. Baker's
+part of the eastern branch of the Nile. When I have gone as far north
+along Lualaba as I can this year, I shall be able to judge as to the
+course I ought to take after receiving my goods and men from Zanzibar,
+and may the Highest direct me, so that I may finish creditably the work
+I have undertaken. I propose to start for Manyuema on the 3rd July.
+
+The dagala or nsipe, a small fish caught in great numbers in every
+flowing water, and very like whitebait, is said to emit its eggs by the
+mouth, and these immediately burst and the young fish manages for
+itself. The dagala never becomes larger than two or three inches in
+length. Some, putrefied, are bitter, as if the bile were in them in a
+good quantity. I have eaten them in Lunda of a pungent bitter taste,
+probably arising from the food on which the fish feeds. Men say that
+they have seen the eggs kept in the sides of the mouth till ready to go
+off as independent fishes. The nghede-dege, a species of perch, and
+another, the ndusi, are said to do the same. The Arabs imagine that fish
+in general fall from the skies, but they except the shark, because they
+can see the young when it is cut open.
+
+_10th July, 1869._--After a great deal of delay and trouble about a
+canoe, we got one from Habee for ten dotis or forty yards of calico, and
+a doti or four yards to each of nine paddlers to bring the vessel back.
+Thani and Zahor blamed me for not taking their canoes for nothing; but
+they took good care not to give them, but made vague offers, which
+meant, "We want much higher pay for our dhows than Arabs generally
+get:" they showed such an intention to fleece me that I was glad to get
+out of their power, and save the few goods I had. I went a few miles,
+when two strangers I had allowed to embark (from being under obligations
+to their masters), worked against each other: so I had to let one land,
+and but for his master would have dismissed the other: I had to send an
+apology to the landed man's master for politeness' sake.
+
+[It is necessary to say a few words here, so unostentatiously does
+Livingstone introduce this new series of explorations to the reader. The
+Manyuema country, for which he set out on the 12th of July, 1869, was
+hitherto unknown. As we follow him we shall see that in almost every
+respect both the face of the country and the people differ from other
+regions lying nearer to the East Coast. It appears that the Arabs had an
+inkling of the vast quantities of ivory which might be procured there,
+and Livingstone went into the new field with the foremost of those
+hordes of Ujijian traders who, in all probability, will eventually
+destroy tribe after tribe by slave-trading and pillage, as they have
+done in so many other regions.]
+
+Off at 6 A.M., and passed the mouth of the Luishe, in Kibwe Bay; 3-1/2
+hours took us to Rombola or Lombola, where all the building wood of
+Ujiji is cut.
+
+_12th July, 1869._--Left at 1.30 A.M., and pulled 7-1/2 hours to the
+left bank of the Malagarasi River. We cannot go by day, because about 11
+A.M. a south-west wind commences to blow, which the heavy canoes cannot
+face; it often begins earlier or later, according to the phases of the
+moon. An east wind blows from sunrise till 10 or 11 A.M., and the
+south-west begins. The Malagarasi is of considerable size at its
+confluence, and has a large islet covered with eschinomena, or pith hat
+material, growing in its way.
+
+Were it not for the current Tanganyika would be covered with green scum
+now rolling away in miles of length and breadth to the north; it would
+also be salt like its shut-in bays. The water has now fallen two feet
+perpendicularly. It took us twelve hours to ascend to the Malagarasi
+River from Ujiji, and only seven to go down that distance. Prodigious
+quantities of confervae pass us day and night in slow majestic flow. It
+is called Shuare. But for the current Tanganyika would be covered with
+"Tikatika" too, like Victoria Nyanza.
+
+_13th July, 1869._--Off at 3.15 A.M., and in five hours reached Kabogo
+Eiver; from this point the crossing is always accomplished: it is about
+thirty miles broad. Tried to get off at 6 P.M., but after two miles the
+south wind blew, and as it is a dangerous wind and the usual one in
+storms, the men insisted on coming back, for the wind, having free
+scope along the entire southern length of Tanganyika, raises waves
+perilous to their heavy craft; after this the clouds cleared all away,
+and the wind died off too; the full moon shone brightly, and this is
+usually accompanied by calm weather here. Storms occur at new moon most
+frequently.
+
+_14th July, 1869._--Sounded in dark water opposite the high fountain
+Kabogo, 326 fathoms, but my line broke in coming up, and we did not see
+the armed end of the sounding lead with sand or mud on it: this is 1965
+feet.
+
+People awaking in fright utter most unearthly yells, and they are joined
+in them by all who sleep near. The first imagines himself seized by a
+wild beast, the rest roar because they hear him doing it: this indicates
+the extreme of helpless terror.
+
+_15th July, 1869._--After pulling all night we arrived at some islands
+and cooked breakfast, then we went on to Kasenge islet on their south,
+and came up to Mohamad Bogharib, who had come from Tongwe, and intended
+to go to Manyuema. We cross over to the mainland, that is, to the
+western shore of the Lake, about 300 yards off, to begin our journey on
+the 21st. Lunars on 20th. Delay to prepare food for journey. Lunars
+again 22nd.
+
+A strong wind from the East to-day. A current sweeps round this islet
+Kisenge from N.E. to S.E., and carries trees and duckweed at more than
+a mile an hour in spite of the breeze blowing across it to the West. The
+wind blowing along the Lake either way raises up water, and in a calm it
+returns, off the shore. Sometimes it causes the current to go
+southwards. Tanganyika narrows at Uvira or Vira, and goes out of sight
+among the mountains there; then it appears as a waterfall into the Lake
+of Quando seen by Banyamwezi.
+
+_23rd July, 1869._--I gave a cloth to be kept for Kasanga, the chief of
+Kasenge, who has gone to fight with the people of Goma.
+
+_1st August, 1869._--Mohamad killed a kid as a sort of sacrifice, and
+they pray to Hadrajee before eating it. The cookery is of their very
+best, and I always get a share; I tell them that I like the cookery, but
+not the prayers, and it is taken in good part.
+
+_2nd August, 1869._--We embarked from the islet and got over to the
+mainland, and slept in a hooked-thorn copse, with a species of black
+pepper plant, which we found near the top of Mount Zomba, in the
+Manganja country,[6] in our vicinity; it shows humidity of climate.
+
+_3rd August, 1869._--Marched 3-1/4 hours south, along Tanganyika, in a
+very undulating country; very fatiguing in my weakness. Passed many
+screw-palms, and slept at Lobamba village.
+
+_4th August, 1869._--A relative of Kasanga engaged to act as our guide,
+so we remained waiting for him, and employed a Banyamwezi smith to make
+copper balls with some bars of that metal presented by Syde bin Habib. A
+lamb wasstolen, and all declared that the deed must have been done by
+Banyamwezi. "At Guha people never steal," and I believe this is true.
+
+_7th August, 1869._--The guide having arrived, we marched 2-1/4 hours
+west and crossed the River Logumba, about forty yards broad and knee
+deep, with a rapid current between deep cut banks; it rises in the
+western Kabogo range, and flows about S.W. into Tanganyika. Much dura or
+_Holcus sorghum_ is cultivated on the rich alluvial soil on its banks by
+the Guha people.
+
+_8th August, 1869._--West through open forest; very undulating, and the
+path full of angular fragments of quartz. We see mountains in the
+distance.
+
+_9th-10th August, 1869._--Westwards to Makhato's village, and met a
+company of natives beating a drum as they came near; this is the peace
+signal; if war is meant the attack is quiet and stealthy. There are
+plenty of Masuko trees laden with fruit, but unripe. It is cold at
+night, but dry, and the people sleep with only a fence at their heads,
+but I have a shed built at every camp as a protection for the loads, and
+sleep in it.
+
+Any ascent, though gentle, makes me blow since the attack of pneumonia;
+if it is inclined to an angle of 45 deg., 100 or 150 yards make me stop to
+pant in distress.
+
+_11th August, 1869._--Came to a village of Ba Rua, surrounded by hills
+of some 200 feet above the plain; trees sparse.
+
+_12th-13th August, 1869._--At villages of Mekheto. Guha people. Remain
+to buy and prepare food, and because many are sick.
+
+_16th August, 1869._--West and by north through much forest reach
+Kalalibebe; buffalo killed.
+
+_17th August, 1869._--To a high mountain, Golu or Gulu, and sleep at its
+base.
+
+_18th August, 1869._--Cross two rills flowing into River Mgoluye. Kagoya
+and Moishe flow into Lobumba.
+
+_19th August, 1869._--To the River Lobumba, forty-five yards Avide,
+thigh deep, and rapid current. Logumba and Lobumba are both from Kabogo
+Mounts: one goes into Tanganyika, and the other, or Lobumba, into and is
+the Luamo: prawns are found in this river. The country east of the
+Lobumba is called Lobanda, that west of it, Kitwa.
+
+_21st August, 1869._--Went on to the River Loungwa, which has worn for
+itself a rut in new red sandstone twenty feet deep, and only three or
+four feet wide at the lips.
+
+_25th August, 1869._--We rest because all are tired; travelling at this
+season is excessively fatiguing. It is very hot at even 10 A.M., and 21/2
+or 3 hours tires the strongest--carriers especially so: during the rains
+five hours would not have fatigued so much as three do now. We are now
+on the same level as Tanganyika. The dense mass of black smoke rising
+from the burning grass and reeds on the Lobumba, or Robumba, obscures
+the sun, and very sensibly lowers the temperature of the sultriest day;
+it looks like the smoke in Martin's pictures. The Manyuema arrows here
+are very small, and made of strong grass stalks, but poisoned, the large
+ones, for elephants and buffaloes, are poisoned also.
+
+_31st August, 1869._--Course N.W. among Palmyras and Hyphene Palms, and
+many villages swarming with people. Crossed Kibila, a hot fountain about
+120 deg., to sleep at Kolokolo River, five yards wide, and knee deep: midway
+we passed the River Kanzazala. On asking the name of a mountain on our
+right I got three names for it--Kaloba, Chingedi, and Kihomba, a fair
+specimen of the superabundance of names in this country!
+
+_1st September, 1869._--West in flat forest, then cross Kishila River,
+and go on to Kunde's villages. The Katamba is a fine rivulet. Kunde is
+an old man without dignity or honour: he came to beg, but offered
+nothing.
+
+_2nd September, 1869._--We remained at Katamba to hunt buffaloes and
+rest, as I am still weak. A young elephant was killed, and I got the
+heart: the Arabs do not eat it, but that part is nice if well cooked.
+
+A Lunda slave, for whom I interceded to be freed of the yoke, ran away,
+and as he is near the Barna, his countrymen, he will be hidden. He told
+his plan to our guide, and asked to accompany him back to Tanganyika,
+but he is eager to deliver him up for a reward: all are eager to press
+each other down in the mire into which they are already sunk.
+
+_5th September, 1869._--Kunde's people refused the tusks of an elephant
+killed by our hunter, asserting that they had killed it themselves with
+a hoe: they have no honour here, as some have elsewhere.
+
+_7th September, 1869._--W. and N.W., through forest and immense fields
+of cassava, some three years old, with roots as thick as a stout man's
+leg.
+
+_8th September, 1869._--Across five rivers and through many villages.
+The country is covered with ferns and gingers, and miles and miles of
+cassava. On to village of Karun-gamagao.
+
+_9th September, 1869._--Rest again to shoot meat, as elephants and
+buffaloes are very abundant: the Suaheli think that adultery is an
+obstacle to success in killing this animal: no harm can happen to him
+who is faithful to his wife, and has the proper charms inserted under
+the skin of his forearms.
+
+_10th September, 1869._--North and north-west, over four rivers, and.
+past the village of Makala, to near that of Pyana-mosinde.
+
+_12th September, 1869._--We had wandered, and now came back to our path
+on hilly ground. The days are sultry and smoking. We came to some
+villages of Pyana-mosinde; the population prodigiously large. A sword
+was left at the camp, and at once picked up; though the man was traced
+to a village it was refused, till he accidentally cut his foot with it,
+and became afraid that worse would follow, elsewhere it would have been
+given up at once: Pyana-mosinde came out and talked very sensibly.
+
+_13th September, 1869._--Along towards the Moloni or Mononi; cross seven
+rills. The people seized three slaves who lagged behind, but hearing a
+gun fired at guinea-fowls let them go. Route N.
+
+_14th September, 1869._--Up and down hills perpetually. We went down
+into some deep dells, filled with gigantic trees, and I measured one
+twenty feet in circumference, and sixty or seventy feet high to the
+first branches; others seemed fit to be ship's spars. Large lichens
+covered many and numerous new plants appeared on the ground.
+
+_15th September, 1869._--Got clear of the mountains after 1-1/2 hour, and
+then the vast valley of Mamba opened out before us; very beautiful, and
+much of it cleared of trees. Met Dugumbe carrying 18,000 lbs. of ivory,
+purchased in this new field very cheaply, because no traders had ever
+gone into the country beyond Bambarre, or Moenekuss's district before.
+We were now in the large bend of the Lualaba, which is here much larger
+than at Mpweto's, near Moero Lake. River Kesingwe.
+
+_16th September, 1869._--To Kasangangazi's. We now came to the first
+palm-oil trees (_Elais Guineensis_) in our way since we left Tanganyika.
+They had evidently been planted at villages. Light-grey parrots, with
+red tails, also became common, whose name, Kuss or Koos, gives the chief
+his name, Moenekuss ("Lord of the Parrot"); but the Manyuema
+pronunciation is Monanjoose. Much reedy grass, fully half an inch in
+diameter in the stalk on our route, and over the top of the range
+Moloni, which we ascended: the valleys are impassable.
+
+_17th September, 1869._--Remain to buy food at Kasanga's, and rest the
+carriers. The country is full of pahn-oil palms, and very beautiful. Our
+people are all afraid to go out of sight of the camp for necessary
+purposes, lest the Manyuema should kill them. Here was the barrier to
+traders going north, for the very people among whom we now are, murdered
+anyone carrying a tusk, till last year, when Moene-mokaia, or Katomba,
+got into friendship with Moenekuss, who protected his people, and always
+behaved in a generous sensible manner. Dilongo, now a chief here, came
+to visit us: his elder brother died, and he was elected; he does not
+wash in consequence, and is very dirty.
+
+Two buffaloes were killed yesterday. The people have their bodies
+tattooed with new and full moons, stars, crocodiles, and Egyptian
+gardens.
+
+_19th September, 1869._--We crossed several rivulets three yards to
+twelve yards, and calf deep. The mountain where we camped is called
+Sangomelambe.
+
+_20th September, 1869._--Up to a broad range of high mountains of light
+grey granite; there are deep dells on the top filled with gigantic
+trees, and having running rills in them. Some trees appear with enormous
+roots, buttresses in fact like mangroves in the coast swamps, six feet
+high at the trunk and flattened from side to side to about three inches
+in diameter. There are many villages dotted over the slopes which we
+climbed; one had been destroyed, and revealed the hard clay walls and
+square forms of Manyuema houses. Our path lay partly along a ridge, with
+a deep valley on each side: one on the left had a valley filled with
+primeval forests, into which elephants when wounded escape completely.
+The forest was a dense mass, without a bit of ground to be seen except a
+patch on the S.W., the bottom of this great valley was 2000 feet below
+us, then ranges of mountains with villages on their bases rose as far as
+they could reach. On our right there was another deep but narrow gorge,
+and mountains much higher than on our ridge close adjacent. Our ridge
+looked like a glacier, and it wound from side to side, and took us to
+the edge of deep precipices, first on the right, then on the left, till
+down below we came to the villages of Chief Monandenda. The houses here
+are all well filled with firewood on shelves, and each has a bed on a
+raised platform in an inner room.
+
+The paths are very skilfully placed on the tops of the ridges of hills,
+and all gullies are avoided. If the highest level were not in general
+made the ground for passing through the country the distances would at
+least be doubled, and the fatigue greatly increased. The paths seem to
+have been used for ages: they are worn deep on the heights; and in
+hollows a little mound rises on each side, formed by the feet tossing a
+little soil on one side.
+
+_21st September, 1869._--Cross five or six rivulets, and as many
+villages, some burned and deserted, or inhabited. Very many people come
+running to see the strangers. Gigantic trees all about the villages.
+Arrive at Bambarre or Moenekuss.
+
+About eighty hours of actual travelling, say at 2' per hour = say 160'
+or 140'. Westing from 3rd August to 21st September. My strength
+increased as I persevered. From Tanganyika west bank say =
+
+    29 deg. 30' east - 140' = 2 deg. 20,'
+     2  20
+    -------
+    27 deg. 10' Long.
+
+Chief village of Moenekuss.
+
+Observations show a little lower altitude than Tanganyika.
+
+_22nd September, 1869._--Moenekuss died lately, and left his two sons to
+fill his place. Moenembagg is the elder of the two, and the most
+sensible, and the spokesman on all important occasions, but his younger
+brother, Moenemgoi, is the chief, the centre of authority. They showed
+symptoms of suspicion, and Mohamad performed the ceremony of mixing
+blood, which is simply making a small incision on the forearm of each
+person, and then mixing the bloods, and making declarations of
+friendship. Moenembagg said, "Your people must not steal, we never do,"
+which is true: blood in a small quantity was then conveyed from one to
+the other by a fig-leaf. "No stealing of fowls or of men," said the
+chief: "Catch the thief and bring him to me, one who steals a person is
+a pig," said Mohamad. Stealing, however, began on our side, a slave
+purloining a fowl, so they had good reason to enjoin honesty on us! They
+think that we have come to kill them: we light on them as if from
+another world: no letters come to tell who we are, or what we want. We
+cannot conceive their state of isolation and helplessness, with nothing
+to trust to but their charms and idols--both being bits of wood. I got a
+large beetle hung up before an idol in the idol house of a deserted and
+burned village; the guardian was there, but the village destroyed.
+
+I presented the two brothers with two table cloths, four bunches of
+beads, and one string of neck-beads; they were well satisfied.
+
+A wood here when burned emits a horrid faecal smell, and one would think
+the camp polluted if one fire was made of it. I had a house built for me
+because the village huts are inconvenient, low in roof, and low
+doorways; the men build them, and help to cultivate the soil, but the
+women have to keep them well filled with firewood and supplied with
+water. They carry the wood, and almost everything else in large baskets,
+hung to the shoulders, like the Edinburgh fishwives. A man made a long
+loud prayer to Mulungu last night after dark for rain.
+
+The sons of Moenekuss have but little of their father's power, but they
+try to behave to strangers as he did. All our people are in terror of
+the Manyema, or Manyuema, man-eating fame: a woman's child had crept
+into a quiet corner of the hut to eat a banana--she could not find him,
+and at once concluded that the Manyuema had kidnapped him to eat him,
+and with a yell she ran through the camp and screamed at the top of her
+shrill voice, "Oh, the Manyuema have stolen my child to make meat of
+him! Oh, my child eaten--oh, oh!"
+
+_26th-28th September, 1869._--A Lunda slave-girl was sent off to be sold
+for a tusk, but the Manyuema don't want slaves, as we were told in
+Lunda, for they are generally thieves, and otherwise bad characters. It
+is now clouded over and preparing for rain, when sun comes overhead.
+Small-pox comes every three or four years, and kills many of the people.
+A soko alive was believed to be a good charm for rain; so one was
+caught, and the captor had the ends of two fingers and toes bitten off.
+The soko or gorillah always tries to bite off these parts, and has been
+known to overpower a young man and leave him without the ends of fingers
+and toes. I saw the nest of one: it is a poor contrivance; no more
+architectural skill shown than in the nest of our Cushat dove.
+
+_29th September, 1869._--I visited a hot fountain, an hour west of our
+camp, which has five eyes, temperature 150 deg., slightly saline taste, and
+steam issues constantly. It is called Kasugwe Colambu. Earthquakes are
+well known, and to the Manyuema they seem to come from the east to west;
+pots rattle and fowls cackle on these occasions.
+
+_2nd October, 1869._--A rhinoceros was shot, and party sent off to the
+River Luamo to buy ivory.
+
+_5th October, 1869._--An elephant was killed, and the entire population
+went off to get meat, which was given freely at first, but after it was
+known how eagerly the Manyuema sought it, six or eight goats were
+demanded for a carcase and given.
+
+_9th October, 1869._--The rite of circumcision is general among all the
+Manyuema; it is performed on the young. If a headman's son is to be
+operated on, it is tried on a slave first; certain times of the year are
+unpropitious, as during a drought for instance; but having by this
+experiment ascertained the proper time, they go into the forest, beat
+drums, and feast as elsewhere: contrary to all African custom they are
+not ashamed to speak about the rite, even before women.
+
+Two very fine young men came to visit me to-day. After putting several
+preparatory inquiries as to where our country lay, &c., they asked
+whether people died with us, and where they went to after death. "Who
+kills them?" "Have you no charm (Buanga) against death?" It is not
+necessary to answer such questions save in a land never visited by
+strangers. Both had the "organs of intelligence" largely developed. I
+told them that we prayed to the Great Father, "Mulungu," and He hears us
+all; they thought this to be natural.
+
+_14th October, 1869._--An elephant killed was of the small variety, and
+only 5 feet 8 inches high at the withers. The forefoot was in
+circumference 3 feet 9 inches, which doubled gives 7 feet 6 inches; this
+shows a deviation from the usual rule "twice round the forefoot = the
+height of the animal." Heart 1-1/2 foot long, tusks 6 feet 8 inches in
+length.
+
+_15th October, 1869._--Fever better, and thankful. Very cold and rainy.
+
+_18th October, 1869._--Our Hassani returned from Moene Kirumbo's; then
+one of Dugumbe's party (also called Hassani) seized ten goats and ten
+slaves before leaving, though great kindness had been shown: this is
+genuine Suaheli or Nigger-Moslem tactics--four of his people were killed
+in revenge.
+
+A whole regiment of Soldier ants in my hut were put into a panic by a
+detachment of Driver ants called Sirufu. The Chungu or black soldiers
+rushed out with their eggs and young, putting them down and running for
+more. A dozen Sirafu pitched on one Chungu and killed him. The Chungu
+made new quarters for themselves. When the white ants cast off their
+colony of winged emigrants a canopy is erected like an umbrella over the
+ant-hill. As soon as the ants fly against the roof they tumble down in a
+shower and their wings instantly become detached from their bodies. They
+are then helpless, and are swept up in baskets to be fried, when they
+make a very palatable food.
+
+[Illustration: Catching Ants.]
+
+_24th-25th October, 1869._--Making copper rings, as these are highly
+prized by Manyuema. Mohamad's Tembe fell. It had been begun on an
+unlucky day, the 26th of the moon; and on another occasion on the same
+day, he had fifty slaves swept away by a sudden flood of a dry river in
+the Obena country: they are great observers of lucky and unlucky days.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] On showing Chuma and Susi some immense Cochin-China fowls at a
+poultry show, they said that they were not larger than those which
+they saw when with Dr. Livingstone on these islands. Muscovy ducks
+abound throughout Central Africa.--ED.
+
+[2] The natural dress of the Malagash.
+
+[3] The same as Unyanyembe, the half-way settlement on the great
+caravan road from the coast to the interior.
+
+[4] These letters must have been destroyed purposely by the Arabs, for
+they never arrived at Zanzibar.--ED.
+
+[5] It is curious that this name occurs amongst the Zulu tribes south
+of the Zambesi, and, as it has no vowel at the end, appears to be of
+altogether foreign origin.--ED.
+
+[6] In 1859.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema
+    country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbe's ravages.
+    Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness
+    in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated.
+    Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of
+    three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner.
+    Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged
+    Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful
+    suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears
+    of four river sources close together. Resume of discoveries.
+    Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr.
+    Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters.
+
+
+_1st November, 1869._--Being now well rested, I resolved to go west to
+Lualaba and buy a canoe for its exploration. Our course was west and
+south-west, through a country surpassingly beautiful, mountainous, and
+villages perched on the talus of each great mass for the sake of quick
+drainage. The streets often run east and west, in order that the bright
+blazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from off them. The dwelling
+houses are generally in line, with public meeting houses at each end,
+opposite the middle of the street, the roofs are low, but well thatched
+with a leaf resembling the banana leaf, but more tough; it seems from
+its fruit to be a species of Euphorbia. The leaf-stack has a notch made
+in it of two or three inches lengthways, and this hooks on to the
+rafters, which are often of the leaf-stalks of palms, split up so as to
+be thin; the water runs quickly off this roof, and the walls, which are
+of well-beaten clay, are screened from the weather. Inside, the
+dwellings are clean and comfortable, and before the Arabs came bugs were
+unknown--as I have before observed, one may know where these people have
+come by the presence or absence of these nasty vermin: the human tick,
+which infests all Arab and Suaheli houses, is to the Manyuema unknown.
+
+In some cases, where the south-east rains are abundant, the Manyuema
+place the back side of the houses to this quarter, and prolong the low
+roof down, so that the rain does not reach the walls. These clay walls
+stand for ages, and men often return to the villages they left in
+infancy and build again the portions that many rains have washed away.
+The country generally is of clayey soil, and suitable for building. Each
+housewife has from twenty-five to thirty earthen pots slung to the
+ceiling by very neat cord-swinging tressels; and often as many neatly
+made baskets hung up in the same fashion, and much firewood.
+
+_5th November, 1869._--In going we crossed the River Luela, of twenty
+yards in width, five times, in a dense dripping forest. The men of one
+village always refused to accompany us to the next set of hamlets, "They
+were at war, and afraid of being killed and eaten." They often came five
+or six miles through the forests that separate the districts, but when
+we drew near to the cleared spaces cultivated by their enemies they
+parted civilly, and invited us to come the same way back, and they would
+sell us all the food we required.
+
+The Manyuema country is all surpassingly beautiful. Palms crown the
+highest heights of the mountains, and their gracefully bended fronds
+wave beautifully in the wind; and the forests, usually about five miles
+broad, between groups of villages, are indescribable. Climbers of cable
+size in great numbers are hung among the gigantic trees, many unknown
+wild fruits abound, some the size of a child's head, and strange birds
+and monkeys are everywhere. The soil is excessively rich, and the
+people, although isolated by old feuds that are never settled,
+cultivate largely. They have selected a kind of maize that bends its
+fruit-stalk round into a hook, and hedges some eighteen feet high are
+made by inserting poles, which sprout like Robinson Crusoe's hedge, and
+never decay. Lines of climbing plants are tied so as to go along from
+pole to pole, and the maize cobs are suspended to these by their own
+hooked fruit-stalk. As the corn cob is forming, the hook is turned
+round, so that the fruit-leaves of it hang down and form a thatch for
+the grain beneath, or inside it. This upright granary forms a
+solid-looking, wall round the villages, and the people are not stingy,
+but take down maize and hand it to the men freely.
+
+The women are very naked. They bring loads of provisions to sell,
+through the rain, and are eager traders for beads. Plantains, cassava,
+and maize, are the chief food. The first rains had now begun, and the
+white ants took the hint to swarm and colonize.
+
+_6th, 7th, and 8th November, 1869._--We came to many large villages, and
+were variously treated; one headman presented me with a parrot, and on
+my declining it, gave it to one of my people; some ordered us off, but
+were coaxed to allow us to remain over night. They have no restraint;
+some came and pushed off the door of my hut with a stick while I was
+resting, as we should do with a wild-beast cage.
+
+Though reasonably willing to gratify curiosity, it becomes tiresome to
+be the victim of unlimited staring by the ugly, as well as by the
+good-looking. I can bear the women, but ugly males are uninteresting,
+and it is as much as I can stand when a crowd will follow me wherever I
+move. They have heard of Dugumbe Hassani's deeds, and are evidently
+suspicious of our intentions: they say, "If you have food at home, why
+come so far and spend your beads to buy it here?" If it is replied, on
+the strength of some of Mohamad's people being present, "We want to buy
+ivory too;" not knowing its value they think that this is a mere
+subterfuge to plunder them. Much palm-wine to-day at different parts
+made them incapable of reasoning further; they seemed inclined to fight,
+but after a great deal of talk we departed without collision.
+
+_9th November, 1869._--We came to villages where all were civil, but
+afterwards arrived where there were other palm-trees and palm-toddy, and
+people low and disagreeable in consequence. The mountains all around are
+grand, and tree-covered. I saw a man with two great great toes: the
+double toe is usually a little one.
+
+_11th November, 1869._--We had heard that the Manyuema were eager to buy
+slaves, but that meant females only to make wives of them: they prefer
+goats to men. Mohamad had bought slaves in Lunda in order to get ivory
+from these Manyuema, but inquiry here and elsewhere brought it out
+plainly that they would rather let the ivory lie unused or rot than
+invest in male slaves, who are generally criminals--at least in Lunda. I
+advised my friend to desist from buying slaves who would all "eat off
+their own heads," but he knew better than to buy copper, and on our
+return he acknowledged that I was right.
+
+_15th November, 1869._--We came into a country where Dugumbe's slaves
+had maltreated the people greatly, and they looked on us as of the same
+tribe, and we had much trouble in consequence. The country is swarming
+with villages. Hassani of Dugumbe got the chief into debt, and then
+robbed him of ten men and ten goats to clear off the debt: The Dutch did
+the same in the south of Africa.
+
+_17th November, 1869._--Copious rains brought us to a halt at Muana
+Balange's, on the banks of the Luamo River. Moerekurambo had died
+lately, and his substitute took seven goats to the chiefs on the other
+side in order to induce them to come in a strong party and attack us for
+Hassani's affair.
+
+_20th to 25th November, 1869._--We were now only about ten miles from
+the confluence of the Luamo and Lualaba, but all the people had been
+plundered, and some killed by the slaves of Dugumbe. The Luamo is here
+some 200 yards broad and deep; the chiefs everywhere were begged to
+refuse us a passage. The women were particularly outspoken in asserting
+our identity with the cruel strangers, and when one lady was asked in
+the midst of her vociferation just to look if I were of the same colour
+with Dugumbe, she replied with a bitter little laugh, "Then you must be
+his father!"
+
+It was of no use to try to buy a canoe, for all were our enemies. It was
+now the rainy season, and I had to move with great caution. The worst
+our enemies did, after trying to get up a war in vain, was to collect as
+we went by in force fully armed with their large spears and huge wooden
+shields, and show us out of their districts. All are kind except those
+who have been abused by the Arab slaves. While waiting at Luamo a man,
+whom we sent over to buy food, got into a panic and fled he knew not
+whither; all concluded that he had been murdered, but some Manyuema whom
+we had never seen found him, fed him, and brought him home unscathed: I
+was very glad that no collision had taken place. We returned to Bambarre
+19th December, 1869.
+
+_20th December, 1869._--While we were away a large horde of Ujijians
+came to Bambarre, all eager to reach the cheap ivory, of which a rumour
+had spread far and wide; they numbered 500 guns, and invited Mohamad to
+go with them, but he preferred waiting for my return from the west. We
+now resolved to go due north; he to buy ivory, and I to reach another
+part of the Lualaba and buy a canoe.
+
+Wherever the dense primeval forest has been cleared off by man, gigantic
+grasses usurp the clearances. None of the sylvan vegetation can stand
+the annual grass-burnings except a species of Bauhinia, and occasionally
+a large tree which sends out new wood below the burned places. The
+parrots build thereon, and the men make a stair up 150 feet by tying
+climbing plants (called Binayoba) around, at about four feet distance,
+as steps: near the confluence of the Luamo, men build huts on this same
+species of tree for safety against the arrows of their enemies.
+
+_21st December, 1869._--The strong thick grass of the clearances dries
+down to the roots at the surface of the soil, and fire does it no harm.
+Though a few of the great old burly giants brave the fires, none of the
+climbers do: they disappear, but the plants themselves are brought out
+of the forests and ranged along the plantations like wire fences to keep
+wild beasts off; the poles of these vegetable wire hedges often take
+root, as also those in stages for maize.
+
+_22nd, 23rd, and 24th December, 1869._--Mohamad presented a goat to be
+eaten on our Christmas. I got large copper bracelets made of my copper
+by Manyuema smiths, for they are considered very valuable, and have
+driven iron bracelets quite out of fashion.
+
+_25th December, 1869._--We start immediately after Christmas: I must try
+with all my might to finish my exploration before next Christmas.
+
+_26th December, 1869._--I get fever severely, and was down all day, but
+we march, as I have always found that moving is the best remedy for
+fever: I have, however, no medicine whatever. We passed over the neck of
+Mount Kinyima, north-west of Moenekuss, through very slippery forest,
+and encamped on the banks of the Lulwa Rivulet.
+
+_28th December, 1869._--Away to Monangoi's village, near the Luamo
+River, here 150 or more yards wide and deep. A man passed us, bearing a
+human finger wrapped in a leaf; it was to be used as a charm, and
+belonged to a man killed in revenge: the Arabs all took this as clear
+evidence of cannibalism: I hesitated, however, to believe it.
+
+_29th, 30th, and 31st December, 1869._--Heavy rains. The Luamo is called
+the Luasse above this. We crossed in canoes.
+
+_1st January, 1870._--May the Almighty help me to finish, the work in
+hand, and retire through the Basango before the year is out. Thanks for
+all last year's loving kindness.
+
+Our course was due north, with the Luasse flowing in a gently undulating
+green country on our right, and rounded mountains in Mbongo's country on
+our left.
+
+_2nd January, 1870._--Rested a day at Mbongo's, as the people were
+honest.
+
+_3rd January, 1870._--Reached a village at the edge of a great forest,
+where the people were excited and uproarious, but not ill-bred, they ran
+alongside the path with us shouting and making energetic remarks to each
+other about us. A newly-married couple stood in a village where we
+stopped to inquire the way, with arms around each other very lovingly,
+and no one joked or poked fun at them. We marched five hours through
+forest and crossed three rivulets and much stagnant water which the sun
+by the few rays he darts in cannot evaporate. We passed several huge
+traps for elephants: they are constructed thus--a log of heavy wood,
+about 20 feet long, has a hole at one end for a climbing plant to pass
+through and suspend it, at the lower end a mortice is cut out of the
+side, and a wooden lance about 2 inches broad by 1-1/2 thick, and about
+4 feet long, is inserted firmly in the mortice; a latch down on the
+ground, when touched by the animal's foot, lets the beam run down on to
+his body, and the great weight of the wood drives in the lance and kills
+the animal. I saw one lance which had accidentally fallen, and it had
+gone into the stiff clay soil two feet.
+
+_4th January, 1870._--- The villagers we passed were civil, but like
+noisy children, all talked and gazed. When surrounded by 300 or 400,
+some who have not been accustomed to the ways of wild men think that a
+fight is imminent; but, poor things, no attack is thought of, if it does
+not begin on our side. Many of Mohamad's people were dreadfully afraid
+of being killed and eaten; one man out in search of ivory seemed to have
+lost sight of his companions, for they saw him running with all his
+might to a forest with no path in it; he was searched for for several
+days, and was given up as a murdered man, a victim of the cannibal
+Manyuema! On the seventh day after he lost his head, he was led into
+camp by a headman, who not only found him wandering but fed and lodged
+and restored him to his people.
+
+[With reference to the above we may add that nothing can exceed the
+terror in which cannibal nations are held by other African tribes. It
+was common on the River Shire to hear Manganja and Ajawa people speak of
+tribes far away to the north who eat human bodies, and on every occasion
+the fact was related with the utmost horror and disgust.]
+
+The women here plait the hair into the form of a basket behind; it is
+first rolled into a very long coil, then wound round something till it
+is about 8 or 10 inches long, projecting from the back of the head.
+
+_5th, 6th, and 7th January, 1870._--Wettings by rain and grass
+overhanging our paths, with bad water, brought on choleraic symptoms;
+and opium from Mohamad had no effect in stopping it: he, too, had
+rheumatism. On suspecting the water as the cause, I had all I used
+boiled, and this was effectual, but I was greatly reduced in flesh, and
+so were many of our party.
+
+We proceeded nearly due north, through wilderness and many villages and
+running rills; the paths are often left to be choked up by the
+overbearing vegetation, and then the course of the rill is adopted as
+the only clear passage; it has also this advantage, it prevents
+footmarks being followed by enemies: in fact the object is always to
+make approaches to human dwellings as difficult as possible, even the
+hedges around villages sprout out and grow a living fence, and this is
+covered by a great mass of a species of calabash with its broad leaves,
+so that nothing appears of the fence outside.
+
+_11th January, 1870._--The people are civil, but uproarious from the
+excitement of having never seen strangers before; all visitors from a
+distance came with their large wooden shields; many of the men are
+handsome and tall but the women are plainer than at Bambarre.
+
+_12th January, 1870._--Cross the Lolinde, 35 yards and knee deep,
+flowing to join Luamo far down: dark water. (_13th._) Through the hills
+Chimunemune; we see many albinos and partial lepers and syphilis is
+prevalent. It is too trying to travel during the rains.
+
+_14th January, 1870._--The Muabe palm had taken possession of a broad
+valley, and the leaf-stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm and 20 feet
+long, had fallen off and blocked up all passage except by one path made
+and mixed up by the feet of buffaloes and elephants. In places like this
+the leg goes into elephants' holes up to the thigh and it is grievous;
+three hours of this slough tired the strongest: a brown stream ran
+through the centre, waist deep, and washed off a little of the adhesive
+mud. Our path now lay through a river covered with tikatika, a living
+vegetable bridge made by a species of glossy leafed grass which felts
+itself into a mat capable of bearing a man's weight, but it bends in a
+foot or fifteen inches every step; a stick six feet long could not reach
+the bottom in certain holes we passed. The lotus, or sacred lily, which
+grows in nearly all the shallow waters of this country, sometimes
+spreads its broad leaves over the bridge so as to lead careless
+observers to think that it is the bridge builder, but the grass
+mentioned is the real agent. Here it is called Kintefwetefwe; on
+Victoria Nyanza Titatika.
+
+_15th January, 1870._--Choleraic purging again came on till all the
+water used was boiled, but I was laid up by sheer weakness near the hill
+Chanza.
+
+_20th and 21st January. 1870._--Weakness and illness goes on because we
+get wet so often; the whole party suffers, and they say that they will
+never come here again. The Manyango Rivulet has fine sweet water, but
+the whole country is smothered with luxuriant vegetation.
+
+_27th, 29th, and 30th January, 1870._--Rest from sickness in camp. The
+country is indescribable from rank jungle of grass, but the rounded
+hills are still pretty; an elephant alone can pass through it--these are
+his head-quarters. The stalks are from half an inch to an inch and a
+half in diameter, reeds clog the feet, and the leaves rub sorely on the
+face and eyes: the view is generally shut in by this megatherium grass,
+except when we come to a slope down to a valley or the bed of a rill.
+
+We came to a village among fine gardens of maize, bananas, ground-nuts,
+and cassava, but the villagers said, "Go on to next village;" and this
+meant, "We don't want you here." The main body of Mohamad's people was
+about three miles before us, but I was so weak I sat down in the next
+hamlet and asked for a hut to rest in. A woman with leprous hands gave
+me hers, a nice clean one, and very heavy rain came on: of her own
+accord she prepared dumplings of green maize, pounded and boiled; which
+are sweet, for she said that she saw I was hungry. It was excessive
+weakness from purging, and seeing that I did not eat for fear of the
+leprosy, she kindly pressed me: "Eat, you are weak only from hunger;
+this will strengthen you." I put it out of her sight, and blessed her
+motherly heart.
+
+I had ere this come to the conclusion that I ought not to risk myself
+further in the rains in my present weakness, for it may result in
+something worse, as in Marungu and Liemba.
+
+The horde mentioned as having passed Bambarre was now somewhere in our
+vicinity, and it was impossible to ascertain from the Manyuema where the
+Lualaba lay.
+
+In going north on 1st February we came to some of this horde belonging
+to Katomba or Moene-mokaia, who stated that the leader was anxious for
+advice as to crossing Lualaba and future movements. He supposed that
+this river was seven days in front of him, and twelve days in front of
+us. It is a puzzle from its north-westing and low level: it is possibly
+Petherick's Bahr Ghazal. Could get no latitude.
+
+_2nd February, 1870._--I propose to cross it, and buy an exploring
+canoe, because I am recovering my strength; but we now climb over the
+bold hills Bininango, and turn south-west towards Katomba to take
+counsel: he knows more than anyone else about the country, and his
+people being now scattered everywhere seeking ivory, I do not relish
+their company.
+
+_3rd February, 1870._--Caught in a drenching rain, which made me fain to
+sit, exhausted as I was, under an umbrella for an hour trying to keep
+the trunk dry. As I sat in the rain a little tree-frog, about half an
+inch long, leaped on to a grassy leaf, and began a tune as loud as that
+of many birds, and very sweet; it was surprising to hear so much music
+out of so small a musician. I drank some rain-water as I felt faint--in
+the paths it is now calf deep. I crossed a hundred yards of slush waist
+deep in mid channel, and full of holes made by elephants' feet, the path
+hedged in by reedy grass, often intertwined and very tripping. I
+stripped off my clothes on reaching my hut in a village, and a fire
+during night nearly dried them. At the same time I rubbed my legs with
+palm oil, and in the morning had a delicious breakfast of sour goat's
+milk and porridge.
+
+_5th February, 1870._--The drenching told on me sorely, and it was
+repeated after we had crossed the good-sized rivulets Mulunkula and many
+villages, and I lay on an enormous boulder under a Muabe palm, and slept
+during the worst of the pelting. I was seven days southing to Mamohela,
+Katomba's camp, and quite knocked up and exhausted. I went into winter
+quarters on 7th February, 1870.
+
+_7th February, 1870._--This was the camp of the headman of the ivory
+horde now away for ivory. Katomba, as Moene-mokaia is called, was now all
+kindness. We were away from his Ujijian associates, and he seemed to
+follow his natural bent without fear of the other slave-traders, who all
+hate to see me as a spy on their proceedings. Rest, shelter, and boiling
+all the water I used, and above all the new species of potato called
+Nyumbo, much famed among the natives as restorative, soon put me all to
+rights. Katomba supplied me liberally with nyumbo; and, but for a
+slightly medicinal taste, which is got rid of by boiling in two waters,
+this vegetable would be equal to English potatoes.
+
+_11th February, 1870._--First of all it was proposed to go off to the
+Lualaba in the north-west, in order to procure _Holcus sorghum_ or dura
+flour, that being, in Arab opinion, nearly equal to wheat, or as they
+say "heating," while the maize flour we were obliged to use was cold or
+cooling.
+
+_13th February, 1870._--I was too ill to go through mud waist deep, so I
+allowed Mohamad (who was suffering much) to go away alone in search of
+ivory. As stated above, shelter and nyumbo proved beneficial.
+
+_22nd February, 1870._--Falls between Vira and Baker's Water seen by
+Wanyamwezi. This confirms my conjecture on finding Lualaba at a lower
+level than Tanganyika. Bin Habib went to fight the Batusi, but they were
+too strong, and he turned.
+
+_1st March, 1870._--Visited my Arab friends in their camp for the first
+time to-day. This is Kasessa's country, and the camp is situated between
+two strong rivulets, while Mamohela is the native name, Mount Bombola
+stands two miles from it north, and Mount Bolunkela is north-east the
+same distance. Wood, water, and grass, the requisites of a camp abound,
+and the Manyuema bring large supplies of food every day; forty large
+baskets of maize for a goat; fowls and bananas and nyumbo very cheap.
+
+_25th March, 1870._--Iron bracelets are the common medium of exchange,
+and coarse beads and cowries: for a copper bracelet three large fowls
+are given, and three and a half baskets of maize; one basket three feet
+high is a woman's load, and they are very strong.
+
+The Wachiogone are a scattered tribe among the Maarabo or Suaheli, but
+they retain their distinct identity as a people.
+
+The Mamba fish has breasts with milk, and utters a cry; its flesh is
+very white, it is not the crocodile which goes by the same name, but is
+probably the Dugong or Peixe Mulher of the Portuguese(?). Full-grown
+leeches come on the surface in this wet country.
+
+Some of Katomba's men returned with forty-three tusks. An animal with
+short horns and of a reddish colour is in the north; it is not known to
+the Arabs(?).
+
+Joseph, an Arab from Oman, says that the Simoom is worse in Sham
+(Yemen?) than in Oman: it blows for three or four hours. Butter eaten
+largely is the remedy against its ill effects, and this is also smeared
+on the body: in Oman a wetted cloth is put over the head, body, and
+legs, while this wind blows.
+
+_1st May, 1870._--An elephant was killed which had three tusks; all of
+good size.[7]
+
+Rains continued; and mud and mire from the clayey soil of Manyuema were
+too awful to be attempted.
+
+_24th May, 1870._--I sent to Bambarre for the cloth and beads I left
+there. A party of Thani's people came south and said that they had
+killed forty Manyuema, and lost four of theirown number; nine villages
+were burned, and all this about a single string of beads which a man
+tried to steal!
+
+_June, 1870._--Mohamad bin Nassur and Akila's men brought 116 tusks from
+the north, where the people are said to be all good and obliging:
+Akila's chief man had a large deep ulcer on the foot from the mud. When
+we had the people here, Kassessa gave ten goats and one tusk to hire
+them to avenge a feud in which his elder brother was killed, and they
+went; the spoils secured were 31 captives, 60 goats, and about 40
+Manyuema killed: one slave of the attacking party was killed, and two
+badly wounded. Thani's man, Yahood, who was leader in the other case of
+40 killed, boasted before me of the deed. I said, "You were sent here
+not to murder, but to trade;" he replied, "We are sent to murder." Bin
+Nassur said, "The English are always killing people;" I replied, "Yes,
+but only slavers who do the deeds that were done yesterday."
+
+Various other tribes sent large presents to the Arabs to avert assaults,
+and tusks too were offered.
+
+The rains had continued into June, and fifty-eight inches fell.
+
+_26th June, 1870._--Now my people failed me; so, with only three
+attendants, Susi, Chuma, and Gardner, I started off to the north-west
+for the Lualaba. The numbers of running rivulets to be crossed were
+surprising, and at each, for some forty yards, the path had been worked
+by the feet of passengers into adhesive mud: we crossed fourteen in one
+day--some thigh deep; most of them run into the Liya, which we crossed,
+and it flows to the Lualaba. We passed through many villages, for the
+paths all lead through human dwellings. Many people presented bananas,
+and seemed surprised when I made a small return gift; one man ran after
+me with a sugar-cane; I paid for lodgings too: here the Arabs never do.
+
+_28th June, 1870._--The driver ants were in millions in some part of
+the way; on this side of the continent they seem less fierce than I have
+found them in the west.
+
+_29th June, 1870._--At one village musicians with calabashes, having
+holes in them, flute-fashion, tried to please me by their vigorous
+acting, and by beating drums in time.
+
+_30th June, 1870._--We passed through the nine villages burned for a
+single string of beads, and slept in the village of Malola.
+
+_July, 1870._--While I was sleeping quietly here, some trading Arabs
+camped at Nasangwa's, and at dead of night one was pinned to the earth
+by a spear; no doubt this was in revenge for relations slain in the
+forty mentioned: the survivors now wished to run a muck in all
+directions against the Manyuema.
+
+When I came up I proposed to ask the chief if he knew the assassin, and
+he replied that he was not sure of him, for he could only conjecture who
+it was; but death to all Manyuemas glared from the eyes of half-castes
+and slaves. Fortunately, before this affair was settled in their way, I
+met Mohamad Bogharib coming back from Kasonga's, and he joined in
+enforcing peace: the traders went off, but let my three people know,
+what I knew long before, that they hated having a spy in me on their
+deeds. I told some of them who were civil tongued that ivory obtained by
+bloodshed was unclean evil--"unlucky" as they say: my advice to them
+was, "Don't shed human blood, my friends; it has guilt not to be wiped
+off by water." Off they went; and afterwards the bloodthirsty party got
+only one tusk and a half, while another party, which avoided shooting
+men, got fifty-four tusks!
+
+From Mohamad's people I learned that the Lualaba was not in the N.W.
+course I had pursued, for in fact it flows W.S.W. in another great bend,
+and they had gone far to the north without seeing it, but the country
+was exceedingly difficult from forest and water. As I had already seen,
+trees fallen across the path formed a breast-high wall which had to be
+climbed over: flooded rivers, breast and neck deep, had to be crossed,
+the mud was awful, and nothing but villages eight or ten miles apart.
+
+In the clearances around these villages alone could the sun be seen. For
+the first time in my life my feet failed me, and now having but three
+attendants it would have been unwise to go further in that direction.
+Instead of healing quietly as heretofore, when torn by hard travel,
+irritable-eating ulcers fastened on both feet; and I limped back to
+Bambarre on 22nd.
+
+The accounts of Ramadan (who was desired by me to take notes as he went
+in the forest) were discouraging, and made me glad I did not go. At one
+part, where the tortuous river was flooded, they were five hours in the
+water, and a man in a small canoe went before them sounding for places
+not too deep for them, breast and chin deep, and Hassani fell and hurt
+himself sorely in a hole. The people have goats and sheep, and love them
+as they do children.
+
+[Fairly baffled by the difficulties in his way, and sorely troubled by
+the demoralised state of his men, who appear not to have been proof
+against the contaminating presence of the Arabs, the Doctor turns back
+at this point.]
+
+_6th July, 1870._--Back to Mamohela, and welcomed by the Arabs, who all
+approved of my turning back. Katomba presented abundant provisions for
+all the way to Bambarre. Before we reached this, Mohamad made a forced
+march, and Moene-mokaia's people came out drunk: the Arabs assaulted
+them, and they ran off.
+
+_23rd July, 1870._--The sores on my feet now laid me up as
+irritable-eating ulcers. If the foot were put to the ground, a discharge
+of bloody ichor flowed, and the same discharge happened every night with
+considerable pain, that prevented sleep: the wailing of the slaves
+tortured with these sores is one of the night sounds of a slave-camp:
+they eat through everything--muscle, tendon, and bone, and often lame
+permanently if they do not kill the poor things. Medicines have very
+little effect on such wounds: their periodicity seems to say that they
+are allied to fever. The Arabs make a salve of bees'-wax and sulphate of
+copper, and this applied hot, and held on by a bandage affords support,
+but the necessity of letting the ichor escape renders it a painful
+remedy: I had three ulcers, and no medicine. The native plan of support
+by means of a stiff leaf or bit of calabash was too irritating, and so
+they continued to eat in and enlarge in spite of everything: the
+vicinity was hot, and the pain increased with the size of the wound.
+
+_2nd August, 1870._--An eclipse at midnight: the Moslems called loudly
+on Moses. Very cold.
+
+On _17th August, 1870,_ Monanyembe, the chief who was punished by
+Mohamad Bogharib, lately came bringing two goats; one he gave to
+Mohamad, the other to Moenekuss' son, acknowledging that he had killed
+his elder brother: he had killed eleven persons over at Linamo in our
+absence, in addition to those killed in villages on our S.E. when we
+were away. It transpired that Kandahara, brother of old Moenekuss, whose
+village is near this, killed three women and a child, and that a trading
+man came over from Kasangangaye, and was murdered too, for no reason but
+to eat his body. Mohamad ordered old Kandahara to bring ten goats and
+take them over to Kasangangaye to pay for the murdered man. When they
+tell of each other's deeds they disclose a horrid state of bloodthirsty
+callousness. The people over a hill N.N.E. of this killed a person out
+hoeing; if a cultivator is alone, he is almost sure of being slain. Some
+said that people in the vicinity, or hyaenas, stole the buried dead; but
+Posho's wife died, and in Wanyamesi fashion was thrown out of camp
+unburied. Mohamad threatened an attack if Manyuema did not cease
+exhuming the dead; it was effectual, neither men nor hyaenas touched
+her, though exposed now for seven days.
+
+The head of Moenekuss is said to be preserved in a pot in his house, and
+all public matters are gravely communicated to it, as if his spirit
+dwelt therein: his body was eaten, the flesh was removed from the head
+and eaten too; his father's head is said to be kept also: the foregoing
+refers to Bambarre alone. In other districts graves show that sepulture
+is customary, but here no grave appears: some admit the existence of the
+practice here; others deny it. In the Metamba country adjacent to the
+Lualaba, a quarrel with a wife often ends in the husband killing her and
+eating her heart, mixed up in a huge mess of goat's flesh: this has the
+charm character. Fingers are taken as charms in other parts, but in
+Bambarre alone is the depraved taste the motive for cannibalism.
+
+_Bambarre, 18th August, 1870._--I learn from Josut and Moenepembe, who
+have been to Katanga and beyond, that there is a Lake N.N.W. of the
+copper mines, and twelve days distant; it is called Chibungo, and is
+said to be large. Seven days west of Katanga flows another Lualaba,
+the dividing line between Rua and Lunda or Londa; it is very large,
+and as the Lufira flows into Chibungo, it is probable that the Lualaba
+West and the Lufira form the Lake. Lualaba West and Lufira rise by
+fountains south of Katanga, three or four days off. Luambai and Lunga
+fountains are only about ten miles distant from Lualaba West and
+Lufira fountains: a mound rises between them, the most remarkable in
+Africa. Were this spot in Armenia it would serve exactly the
+description of the garden of Eden in Genesis, with its four rivers,
+the Gihon, Pison, Hiddekel, and Euphrates; as it is, it possibly gave
+occasion to the story told to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva in
+the City of Sais, about two hills with conical tops, Crophi and Mophi.
+"Midway between them," said he, "are the fountains of the Nile,
+fountains which it is impossible to fathom: half the water runs
+northward into Egypt; half to the south towards Ethiopia."
+
+Four fountains rising so near to each other would readily be supposed to
+have one source, and half the water flowing into the Nile and the other
+half to the Zambesi, required but little imagination to originate,
+seeing the actual visitor would not feel bound to say how the division
+was effected. He could only know the fact of waters rising at one spot,
+and separating to flow north and south. The conical tops to the mound
+look like invention, as also do the names.
+
+A slave, bought on Lualaba East, came from Lualaba West in about twelve
+days: these two Lualabas may form the loop depicted by Ptolemy, and
+upper and lower Tanganyika be a third arm of the Nile.
+
+Patience is all I can exercise: these irritable ulcers hedge me in now,
+as did my attendants in June, but all will be for the best, for it is in
+Providence and not in me.
+
+The watershed is between 700 and 800 miles long from west to east, or
+say from 22 deg. or 23 deg. to 34 deg. or 35 deg. East longitude. Parts of it are
+enormous sponges; in other parts innumerable rills unite into rivulets,
+which again form rivers--Lufira, for instance, has nine rivulets, and
+Lekulwe other nine. The convex surface of the rose of a garden
+watering-can is a tolerably apt similitude, as the rills do not spring
+off the face of it, and it is 700 miles across the circle; but in the
+numbers of rills coming out at different heights on the slope, there is
+a faint resemblance, and I can at present think of no other example.
+
+I am a little thankful to old Nile for so hiding his head that all
+"theoretical discoverers" are left out in the cold. With all real
+explorers I have a hearty sympathy, and I have some regret at being
+obliged, in a manner compelled, to speak somewhat disparagingly of the
+opinions formed by my predecessors. The work of Speke and Grant is part
+of the history of this region, and since the discovery of the sources
+of the Nile was asserted so positively, it seems necessary to explain,
+not offensively, I hope, wherein their mistake lay, in making a somewhat
+similar claim. My opinions may yet be shown to be mistaken too, but at
+present I cannot conceive how. When Speke discovered Victoria Nyanza in
+1858, he at once concluded that therein lay the sources of the Nile. His
+work after that was simply following a foregone conclusion, and as soon
+as he and Grant looked towards the Victoria Nyanza, they turned their
+backs on the Nile fountains; so every step of their splendid achievement
+of following the river down took them further and further away from the
+Caput Nili. When it was perceived that the little river that leaves the
+Nyanza, though they called it the White Nile, would not account for that
+great river, they might have gone west and found headwaters (as the
+Lualaba) to which it can bear no comparison. Taking their White Nile at
+80 or 90 yards, or say 100 yards broad, the Lualaba, far south of the
+latitude of its point of departure, shows an average breadth of from
+4000 to 6000 yards, and always deep.
+
+Considering that more than sixteen hundred years have elapsed since
+Ptolemy put down the results of early explorers, and emperors, kings,
+philosophers--all the great men of antiquity in short longed to know the
+fountains whence flowed the famous river, and longed in
+vain--exploration does not seem to have been very becoming to the other
+sex either. Madame Tinne came further up the river than the centurions
+sent by Nero Caesar, and showed such indomitable pluck as to reflect
+honour on her race. I know nothing about her save what has appeared in
+the public papers, but taking her exploration along with what was done
+by Mrs. Baker, no long time could have elapsed before the laurels for
+the modern re-discovery of the sources of the Nile should have been
+plucked by the ladies. In 1841 the Egyptian Expedition under D'Arnauld
+and Sabatier reached lat. 4 deg. 42': this was a great advance into the
+interior as compared with Linant in 1827, 13 deg. 30' N., and even on the
+explorations of Jomard(?); but it turned when nearly a thousand miles
+from the sources.
+
+[The subjoined account of the soko--which is in all probability an
+entirely new species of chimpanzee, and _not_ the gorilla, is
+exceedingly interesting, and no doubt Livingstone had plenty of stories
+from which to select. Neither Susi nor Chuma can identify the soko of
+Manyuema with the gorilla, as we have it stuffed in the British Museum.
+They think, however, that the soko is quite as large and as strong as
+the gorilla, judging by the specimens shown to them, although they could
+have decided with greater certainty, if the natives had not invariably
+brought in the dead sokos disembowelled; as they point out, and as we
+imagine from Dr. Livingstone's description, the carcase would then
+appear much less bulky. Livingstone gives an animated sketch of a soko
+hunt.]
+
+_24th August, 1870._--Four gorillas or sokos were killed yesterday: an
+extensive grass-burning forced them out of their usual haunt, and coming
+on the plain they were speared. They often go erect, but place the hand
+on the head, as if to steady the body. When seen thus, the soko is an
+ungainly beast. The most sentimental young lady would not call him a
+"dear," but a bandy-legged, pot-bellied, low-looking villain, without a
+particle of the gentleman in him. Other animals, especially the
+antelopes, are graceful, and it is pleasant to see them, either at rest
+or in motion: the natives also are well made, lithe and comely to
+behold, but the soko, if large, would do well to stand for a picture of
+the Devil.
+
+He takes away my appetite by his disgusting bestiality of appearance.
+His light-yellow face shows off his ugly whiskers, and faint apology for
+a beard; the forehead villainously low, with high ears, is well in the
+back-ground of the great dog-mouth; the teeth are slightly human, but
+the canines show the beast by their large development. The hands, or
+rather the fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh of the feet
+is yellow, and the eagerness with which the Manyuema devour it leaves
+the impression that eating sokos was the first stage by which they
+arrived at being cannibals; they say the flesh is delicious. The soko is
+represented by some to be extremely knowing, successfully stalking men
+and women while at their work, kidnapping children, and running up trees
+with them--he seems to be amused by the sight of the young native in his
+arms, but comes down when tempted by a bunch of bananas, and as he lifts
+that, drops the child: the young soko in such a case would cling closely
+to the armpit of the elder. One man was cutting out honey from a tree,
+and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared and caught him, then let him
+go: another man was hunting, and missed in his attempt to stab a soko:
+it seized the spear and broke it, then grappled with the man, who called
+to his companions, "Soko has caught me," the soko bit off the ends of
+his fingers and escaped unharmed. Both men are now alive at Bambarre.
+
+The soko is so cunning, and has such sharp eyes, that no one can stalk
+him in front without being seen, hence, when shot, it is always in the
+back; when surrounded by men and nets, he is generally speared in the
+back too, otherwise he is not a very formidable beast: he is nothing, as
+compared in power of damaging his assailant, to a leopard or lion, but
+is more like a man unarmed, for it does not occur to him to use his
+canine teeth, which are long and formidable. Numbers of them come down
+in the forest, within a hundred yards of our camp, and would be unknown
+but for giving tongue like fox-hounds: this is their nearest approach to
+speech. A man hoeing was stalked by a soko, and seized; he roared out,
+but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him as if he had done it in
+play. A child caught up by a soko is often abused by being pinched and
+scratched, and let fall.
+
+The soko kills the leopard occasionally, by seizing both paws, and
+biting them so as to disable them, he then goes up a tree, groans over
+his wounds, and sometimes recovers, while the leopard dies: at other
+times, both soko and leopard die. The lion kills him at once, and
+sometimes tears his limbs off, but does not eat him. The soko eats no
+flesh--small bananas are his dainties, but not maize. His food consists
+of wild fruits, which abound: one, Stafene, or Manyuema Mamwa, is like
+large sweet sop but indifferent in taste and flesh. The soko brings
+forth at times twins. A very large soko was seen by Mohamad's hunters
+sitting picking his nails; they tried to stalk him, but he vanished.
+Some Manyuema think that their buried dead rise as sokos, and one was
+killed with holes in his ears, as if he had been a man. He is very
+strong and fears guns but not spears: he never catches women.
+
+Sokos collect together, and make a drumming noise, some say with hollow
+trees, then burst forth into loud yells which are well imitated by the
+natives' embryotic music. If a man has no spear the soko goes away
+satisfied, but if wounded he seizes the wrist, lops off the fingers, and
+spits them out, slaps the cheeks of his victim, and bites without
+breaking the skin: he draws out a spear (but never uses it), and takes
+some leaves and stuffs them into his wound to staunch the blood; he does
+not wish an encounter with an armed man. He sees women do him no harm,
+and never molests them; a man without a spear is nearly safe from him.
+They beat hollow trees as drums with hands, and then scream as music to
+it; when men hear them, they go to the sokos; but sokos never go to men
+with hostility. Manyuema say, "Soko is a man, and nothing bad in him."
+
+They live in communities of about ten, each having his own female; an
+intruder from another camp is beaten off with their fists and loud
+yells. If one tries to seize the female of another, he is caught on the
+ground, and all unite in boxing and biting the offender. A male often
+carries a child, especially if they are passing from one patch of forest
+to another over a grassy space; he then gives it to the mother.
+
+I now spoke with my friend Mohamad, and he offered to go with me to see
+Lualaba from Luamo, but I explained that merely to see and measure its
+depth would not do, I must see whither it went. This would require a
+number of his people in lieu of my deserters, and to take them away from
+his ivory trade, which at present is like gold digging, I must make
+amends, and I offered him 2000 rupees, and a gun worth 700 rupees, R.
+2700 in all, or 270_l._ He agreed, and should he enable me to finish up
+my work in one trip down Lualaba, and round to Lualaba West, it would be
+a great favour.
+
+[How severely he felt the effects of the terrible illnesses of the last
+two years may be imagined by some few words here, and it must ever be
+regretted that the conviction which he speaks of was not acted up to.]
+
+The severe pneumonia in Marunga, the choleraic complaint in Manyuema,
+and now irritable ulcers warn me to retire while life lasts. Mohamad's
+people went north, and east, and west, from Kasonga's: sixteen marches
+north, ten ditto west, and four ditto E. and S.E. The average march was
+6-1/2 hours, say 12' about 200' N. and W., lat. of Kasongo, say 4 deg.
+south. They may have reached 1 deg., 2 deg. S. They were now in the Balegge
+country, and turned. It was all dense forest, they never saw the sun
+except when at a village, and then the villages were too far apart. The
+people were very fond of sheep, which they call ngombe, or ox, and tusks
+are never used. They went off to where an elephant had formerly been
+killed, and brought the tusks rotted and eaten or gnawed by "Dere" (?)--a
+Rodent, probably the _Aulocaudatus Swindermanus_. Three large rivers
+were crossed, breast and chin deep; in one they were five hours, and a
+man in a small canoe went ahead sounding for water capable of being
+waded. Much water and mud in the forest. This report makes me thankful I
+did not go, for I should have seen nothing, and been worn out by fatigue
+and mud. They tell me that the River Metunda had black water, and took
+two hours to cross it, breast deep. They crossed about forty smaller
+rivers over the River Mohunga, breast deep. The River of Mbite also is
+large. All along Lualaba and Metumbe the sheep have hairy dew-laps, no
+wool, Tartar breed (?), small thin tails.
+
+A broad belt of meadow-land, with no trees, lies along Lualaba, beyond
+that it is all dense forest, and trees so large, that one lying across
+the path is breast high: clearances exist only around the villages. The
+people are very expert smiths and weavers of the "Lamba," and make fine
+large spears, knives, and needles. Market-places, called "Tokos," are
+numerous all along Lualaba; to these the Barua of the other bank come
+daily in large canoes, bringing grass-cloth, salt, flour, cassava,
+fowls, goats, pigs, and slaves. The women are beautiful, with straight
+noses, and well-clothed; when the men of the districts are at war, the
+women take their goods to market as if at peace and are never molested:
+all are very keen traders, buying one thing with another, and changing
+back again, and any profit made is one of the enjoyments of life.
+
+I knew that my deserters hoped to be fed by Mohamad Bogharib when we
+left the camp at Mamohela, but he told them that he would not have them;
+this took them aback, but they went and lifted his ivory for him, and
+when a parley was thus brought about, talked him over, saying that they
+would go to me, and do all I desired: they never came, but, as no one
+else would take them, I gave them three loads to go to Bambarre; there
+they told Mohamad that I would not give them beads, and they did not
+like to steal; they were now trying to get his food by lies. I invited
+them three times to come and take beads, but having supplies of food
+from the camp women, they hoped to get the upper hand with me, and take
+what they liked by refusing to carry or work. Mohamad spoke long to
+them, but speaking mildly makes them imagine that the spokesman is
+afraid of them. They kept away from my work and would fain join
+Mohamad's, but he won't have them. I gave beads to all but the
+ringleaders. Their conduct looks as if a quarrel had taken place between
+us, but no such excuse have they.
+
+I am powerless, as they have left me, and think that they may do as they
+like, and the "Manyuema are bad" is the song. Their badness consists in
+being dreadfully afraid of guns, and the Arabs can do just as they like
+with them and their goods. If spears alone were used the Manyuema would
+be considered brave, for they fear no one, though he has many spears.
+They tell us truly "that were it not for our guns not one of us would
+return to our own country." Moene-mokaia killed two Arab agents, and took
+their guns; this success led to their asserting, in answer to the
+remonstrances of the women, "We shall take their goats, guns, and women
+from them." The chief, in reporting the matter to Moenemger(?) at Luamo,
+said, "The Englishman told my people to go away as he did not like
+fighting, but my men were filled with 'malofu,' or palm-toddy, and
+refused to their own hurt." Elsewhere they made regular preparation to
+have a fight with Dugumbe's people, just to see who was strongest--they
+with their spears and wooden shields, and the Arabs with what in
+derision they called tobacco-pipes (guns). They killed eight or nine
+Arabs.
+
+No traders seem ever to have come in before this. Banna brought copper
+and skins for tusks, and the Babisa and Baguha coarse beads. The Bavira
+are now enraged at seeing Ujijians pass into their ivory field, and no
+wonder; they took the tusks which cost them a few strings of beads, and
+received weight for weight in beads, thick brass wire, and loads of
+calico.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] Susi and Chuma say that the third tusk grew out from the base of
+the trunk, that is, midway between the other two.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of
+    comfort." Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer.
+    Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and
+    Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut
+    for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for
+    ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a
+    great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory
+    traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's
+    Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The
+    bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of
+    Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird." The disease
+    "Safura."
+
+Bambarre, _25th August, 1870._--One of my waking dreams is that the
+legendary tales about Moses coming up into Inner Ethiopia with Merr his
+foster-mother, and founding a city which he called in her honour
+"Meroe," may have a substratum of fact. He was evidently a man of
+transcendent genius, and we learn from the speech of St. Stephen that
+"he was learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians, and was mighty in
+words and in deeds." His deeds must have been well known in Egypt, for
+"he supposed that his brethren would have understood how that God by His
+hand would deliver them, but they understood not." His supposition could
+not be founded on his success in smiting a single Egyptian; he was too
+great a man to be elated by a single act of prowess, but his success on
+a large scale in Ethiopia afforded reasonable grounds for believing that
+his brethren would be proud of their countryman, and disposed to follow
+his leadership, but they were slaves. The notice taken of the matter by
+Pharaoh showed that he was eyed by the great as a dangerous, if not
+powerful, man. He "dwelt" in Midian for some time before his gallant
+bearing towards the shepherds by the well, commended him to the priest
+or prince of the country. An uninteresting wife, and the want of
+intercourse with kindred spirits during the long forty years' solitude
+of a herdsman's life, seem to have acted injuriously on his spirits, and
+it was not till he had with Aaron struck terror into the Egyptian mind,
+that the "man Moses" again became "very great in the eyes of Pharaoh and
+his servants." The Ethiopian woman whom he married could scarcely be the
+daughter of Renel or Jethro, for Midian was descended from Keturah,
+Abraham's concubine, and they were never considered Cushite or
+Ethiopian. If he left his wife in Egypt she would now be some fifty or
+sixty years old, and all the more likely to be despised by the proud
+prophetess Miriam as a daughter of Ham.
+
+I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, and if anything
+confirmatory of sacred history does remain, I pray to be guided
+thereunto. If the sacred chronology would thereby be confirmed, I would
+not grudge the toil and hardships, hunger and pain, I have endured--the
+irritable ulcers would only be discipline.
+
+Above the fine yellow clay schist of Manyuema the banks of Tanganyika
+reveal 50 feet of shingle mixed with red earth; above this at some parts
+great boulders lie; after this 60 feet of fine clay schist, then 5
+strata of gravel underneath, with a foot stratum of schist between them.
+The first seam of gravel is about 2 feet, the second 4 feet, and the
+lowest of all about 30 feet thick. The fine schist was formed in still
+water, but the shingle must have been produced in stormy troubled seas
+if not carried hither and thither by ice and at different epochs.
+
+This Manyuema country is unhealthy, not so much from fever as from
+debility of the whole system, induced by damp, cold, and indigestion:
+this general weakness is ascribed by some to maize being the common
+food, it shows itself in weakness of bowels and choleraic purging. This
+may be owing to bad water, of which there is no scarcity, but it is so
+impregnated with dead vegetable matter as to have the colour of tea.
+Irritable ulcers fasten on any part abraded by accident, and it seems to
+be a spreading fungus, for the matter settling on any part near becomes
+a fresh centre of propagation. The vicinity of the ulcer is very tender,
+and it eats in frightfully if not allowed rest. Many slaves die of it,
+and its periodical discharges of bloody ichor makes me suspect it to be
+a development of fever. I have found lunar caustic useful: a plaister of
+wax, and a little finely-ground sulphate of copper is used by the Arabs,
+and so is cocoa-nut oil and butter. These ulcers are excessively
+intractable, there is no healing them before they eat into the bone,
+especially on the shins.
+
+Rheumatism is also common, and it cuts the natives off. The traders fear
+these diseases, and come to a stand if attacked, in order to use rest in
+the cure. "Taema," or Tape-worm, is frequently met with, and no remedy
+is known among the Arabs and natives for it.
+
+[Searching in his closely-written pocket-books we find many little
+mementoes of his travels; such, for instance, as two or three tsetse
+flies pressed between the leaves of one book; some bees, some leaves and
+moths in another, but, hidden away in the pocket of the note-book which
+Livingstone used during the longest and most painful illness he ever
+underwent lies a small scrap of printed paper which tells a tale in its
+own simple way. On one side there is written in his well-known hand:--]
+
+    "Turn over and see a drop of comfort found when suffering
+    from irritable eating ulcers on the feet in Manyuema,
+    August, 1870."
+
+[On the reverse we see that the scrap was evidently snipped off a list
+of books advertised at the end of some volume which, with the tea and
+other things sent to Ujiji, had reached him before setting out on this
+perilous journey. The "drop of comfort" is as follows:--]
+
+    "A NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESI AND ITS
+    TRIBUTARIES,
+
+    "And the discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa.
+
+    "_Fifth Thousand. With Map and Illustrations_. 8vo. 21s.
+
+    "'Few achievements in our day have made a greater impression
+    than that of the adventurous missionary who unaided crossed the
+    Continent of Equatorial Africa. His unassuming simplicity, his
+    varied intelligence, his indomitable pluck, his steady religious
+    purpose, form a combination of qualities rarely found in one
+    man. By common consent, Dr. Livingstone has come to be regarded
+    as one of the most remarkable travellers of his own or of any
+    other age.'--_British Quarterly Review_."
+
+[The kindly pen of the reviewer served a good turn when there was "no
+medicine" but the following:--]
+
+I was at last advised to try malachite, rubbed down with water on a
+stone, and applied with a feather: this is the only thing that has any
+beneficial effect.
+
+_9th September, 1870._--A Londa slave stole ten goats from the Manyuema;
+he was bound, but broke loose, and killed two goats yesterday. He was
+given to the Manyuema. The Balonda evidently sold their criminals only.
+He was shorn of his ears and would have been killed, but Monangoi said:
+"Don't let the blood of a freeman touch our soil."
+
+_26th September, 1870._--I am able now to report the ulcers healing. For
+eighty days I have been completely laid up by them, and it will be long
+ere the lost substance will be replaced. They kill many slaves; and an
+epidemic came to us which carried off thirty in our small camp.[8]
+
+[We come to a very important note under the next date. It may be
+necessary to remind the reader that when Livingstone left the
+neighbourhood of Lake Nyassa and bent his steps northwards, he believed
+that the "Chambeze" River, which the natives reported to be ahead of
+him, was in reality the Zambezi, for he held in his hand a map
+manufactured at home, and so conveniently manipulated as to clear up a
+great difficulty by simply inserting "New Zambezi" in the place of the
+Chambeze. As we now see, Livingstone handed back this addled
+geographical egg to its progenitor, who, we regret to say, has not only
+smashed it in wrath, but has treated us to so much of its savour in a
+pamphlet written against the deceased explorer, that few will care to
+turn over its leaves.
+
+However, the African traveller has a warning held up before him which
+may be briefly summed up in a caution to be on the look out for constant
+repetitions in one form or another of the same name. Endless confusion
+has arisen from Nyassas and Nyanzas, from Chiroas and Kiroas and
+Shirwas, to say nothing of Zambesis and Ohambezes. The natives are just
+as prone to perpetuate Zambezi or Lufira in Africa as we are to multiply
+our Avons and Ouses in England.]
+
+_4th October, 1870._--A trading party from Ujiji reports an epidemic
+raging between the coast and Ujiji, and very fatal. Syde bin Habib and
+Dugumbe are coming, and they have letters and perhaps people for me, so
+I remain, though the irritable ulcers are well-nigh healed. I fear that
+my packet for the coast may have fared badly, for the Lewale has kept
+Musa Kamaal by him, so that no evidence against himself or the dishonest
+man Musa bin Saloom should be given: my box and guns, with despatches, I
+fear will never be sent. Zahor, to whom I gave calico to pay carriers,
+has been sent off to Lobemba.
+
+Mohamad sowed rice yesterday, and has to send his people (who were
+unsuccessful among the Balegga) away to the Metambe, where they got
+ivory before.
+
+I cannot understand very well what a "Theoretical Discoverer" is. If
+anyone got up and declared in a public meeting that he was the
+theoretical discoverer of the philosopher's stone, or of perpetual
+motion for watches, should we not mark him as a little wrong in the
+head? So of the Nile sources. The Portuguese crossed the Chambeze some
+seventy years before I did, but to them it was a branch of the Zambezi
+and nothing more. Cooley put it down as the New Zambesi, and made it run
+backwards, up-hill, between 3000 and 4000 feet! I was misled by the
+similarity of names and a map, to think it the eastern branch of the
+Zambezi. I was told that it formed a large water in the south-west, this
+I readily believed to be the Liambai, in the Barotse Valley, and it took
+me eighteen months of toil to come back again to the Chambeze in Lake
+Bangweolo, and work out the error into which I was led--twenty-two
+months elapsed ere I got back to the point whence I set out to explore
+Chambeze, Bangweolo, Luapula, Moero, and Lualaba. I spent two full years
+at this work, and the Chief Casembe was the first to throw light on the
+subject by saying, "It is the same water here as in the Chambeze, the
+same in Moero and Lualaba, and one piece of water is just like another.
+Will you draw out calico from it that you wish to see it? As your chief
+desired you to see Bangweolo, go to it, and if in going north you see a
+travelling party, join it; if not, come back to me, and I will send you
+safely by my path along Moero."
+
+The central Lualaba I would fain call the Lake River Webb; the western,
+the Lake River Young. The Lufira and Lualaba West form a Lake, the
+native name of which, "Chibungo," must give way to Lake Lincoln. I wish
+to name the fountain of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, Palmerston
+Fountain, and adding that of Sir Bartle Frere to the fountain of Lufira,
+three names of men who have done more to abolish slavery and the
+slave-trade than any of their contemporaries.
+
+[Through the courtesy of the Earl of Derby we are able to insert a
+paragraph here which occurs in a despatch written to Her Majesty's
+Foreign Office by Dr. Livingstone a few weeks before his death. He
+treats more fully in it upon the different names that he gave to the
+most important rivers and lakes which he discovered, and we see how he
+cherished to the last the fond memory of old well-tried friendships, and
+the great examples of men like President Lincoln and Lord Palmerston.]
+
+"I have tried to honour the name of the good Lord Palmerston, in fond
+remembrance of his long and unwearied labour for the abolition of the
+Slave Trade; and I venture to place the name of the good and noble
+Lincoln on the Lake, in gratitude to him who gave freedom to 4,000,000
+of slaves. These two great men are no longer among us; but it pleases
+me, here in the wilds, to place, as it were, my poor little garland of
+love on their tombs. Sir Bartle Frere having accomplished the grand work
+of abolishing slavery in Scindiah, Upper India, deserves the gratitude
+of every lover of human kind.
+
+"Private friendship guided me in the selection of other names where
+distinctive epithets were urgently needed. 'Paraffin' Young, one of my
+teachers in chemistry, raised himself to be a merchant prince by his
+science and art, and has shed pure white light in many lowly cottages,
+and in some rich palaces. Leaving him and chemistry, I went away to try
+and bless others. I, too, have shed light of another kind, and am fain
+to believe that I have performed a small part in the grand revolution
+which our Maker has been for ages carrying on, by multitudes of
+conscious, and many unconscious agents, all over the world. Young's
+friendship never faltered.
+
+"Oswell and Webb were fellow-travellers, and mighty hunters. Too much
+engrossed myself with mission-work to hunt, except for the children's
+larder, when going to visit distant tribes, I relished the sight of fair
+stand-up fights by my friends with the large denizens of the forest, and
+admired the true Nimrod class for their great courage, truthfulness, and
+honour. Being a warm lover of natural history, the entire butcher tribe,
+bent only on making 'a bag,' without regard to animal suffering, have
+not a single kindly word from me. An Ambonda man, named Mokantju, told
+Oswell and me in 1851 that the Liambai and Kafue rose as one fountain
+and then separated, but after a long course came together again in the
+Zambezi above Zumbo."
+
+_8th October, 1870._--Mbarawa and party came yesterday from Katomba at
+Mamohela. He reports that Jangeonge (?) with Moeneokela's men had been
+killing people of the Metamba or forest, and four of his people were
+slain. He intended fighting, hence his desire to get rid of me when I
+went north: he got one and a half tusks, but little ivory, but Katomba's
+party got fifty tusks; Abdullah had got two tusks, and had also been
+fighting, and Katomba had sent a fighting party down to Lolinde; plunder
+and murder is Ujijian trading. Mbarawa got his ivory on the Lindi, or as
+he says, "Urindi," which has black water, and is very large: an arrow
+could not be shot across its stream, 400 or 500 yards wide, it had to be
+crossed by canoes, and goes into Lualaba. It is curious that all think
+it necessary to say to me, "The Manyuema are bad, very bad;" the Balegga
+will be let alone, because they can fight, and we shall hear nothing of
+their badness.
+
+_10th October, 1870._--I came out of my hut to-day, after being confined
+to it since the 22nd July, or eighty days, by irritable ulcers on the
+feet. The last twenty days I suffered from fever, which reduced my
+strength, taking away my voice, and purging me. My appetite was good,
+but the third mouthful of any food caused nausea and vomiting--purging
+took place and profuse sweating; it was choleraic, and how many Manyuema
+died of it we could not ascertain. While this epidemic raged here, we
+heard of cholera terribly severe on the way to the coast. I am thankful
+to feel myself well.
+
+Only one ulcer is open, the size of a split pea: malachite was the
+remedy most useful, but the beginning of the rains may have helped the
+cure, as it does to others; copper rubbed down is used when malachite
+cannot be had. We expect Syde bin Habib soon: he will take to the river,
+and I hope so shall I. The native traders reached people who had horns
+of oxen, got from the left bank of the Lualaba. Katomba's people got
+most ivory, namely, fifty tusks; the others only four. The Metamba or
+forest is of immense extent, and there is room for much ivory to be
+picked up at five or seven bracelets of copper per tusk, if the slaves
+sent will only be merciful. The nine villages destroyed, and 100 men
+killed, by Katomba's slaves at Nasangwa's, were all about a string of
+beads fastened to a powder horn, which a Manyuema man tried in vain to
+steal!
+
+Katomba gets twenty-five of the fifty tusks brought by his people. We
+expect letters, and perhaps men by Syde bin Habib. No news from the
+coast had come to Ujiji, save a rumour that some one was building a
+large house at Bagamoio, but whether French or English no one can say:
+possibly the erection of a huge establishment on the mainland may be a
+way of laboriously proving that it is more healthy than the island. It
+will take a long time to prove by stone and lime that the higher lands,
+200 miles inland, are better still, both for longevity and work.[9] I am
+in agony for news from home; all I feel sure of now is that my friends
+will all wish me to complete my task. I join in the wish now, as better
+than doing it in vain afterwards.
+
+The Manyuema hoeing is little better than scraping the soil, and cutting
+through the roots of grass and weeds, by a horizontal motion of the hoe
+or knife; they leave the roots of maize, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes,
+and dura, to find their way into the rich soft soil, and well they
+succeed, so there is no need for deep ploughing: the ground-nuts and
+cassava hold their own against grass for years, and bananas, if cleared
+of weeds, yield abundantly. Mohamad sowed rice just outside the camp
+without any advantage being secured by the vicinity of a rivulet, and it
+yielded forone measure of seed one hundred and twenty measures of
+increase. This season he plants along the rivulet called "Bonde," and on
+the damp soil.
+
+The rain-water does not percolate far, for the clay retains it about two
+feet beneath the surface: this is a cause of unhealthiness to man. Fowls
+and goats have been cut off this year in large numbers by an epidemic.
+
+The visits of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Manyuema to be a
+severe infliction, for the huts are appropriated, and no leave asked:
+firewood, pots, baskets, and food are used without scruple, and anything
+that pleases is taken away; usually the women flee into the forest, and
+return to find the whole place a litter of broken food. I tried to pay
+the owners of the huts in which I slept, but often in vain, for they hid
+in the forest, and feared to come near. It was common for old men to
+come forward to me with a present of bananas as I passed, uttering with
+trembling accents, "Bolongo, Bolongo!" ("Friendship, Friendship!"), and
+if I stopped to make a little return present, others ran for plantains
+or palm-toddy. The Arabs' men ate up what they demanded, without one
+word of thanks, and turned round to me and said, "They are bad, don't
+give them anything." "Why, what badness is there in giving food?" I
+replied. "Oh! they like you, but hate us." One man gave me an iron ring,
+and all seemed inclined to be friendly, yet they are undoubtedly
+bloodthirsty to other Manyuema, and kill each other.
+
+I am told that journeying inland the safe way to avoid tsetse in going
+to Merere's is to go to Mdonge, Makinde, Zungomero, Masapi, Irundu,
+Nyangore, then turn north to the Nyannugams, and thence to Nyembe, and
+so on south to Merere's. A woman chief lies in the straight way to
+Merere, but no cattle live in the land. Another insect lights on the
+animals, and when licked off bites the tongue, or breeds, and is fatal
+as well as tsetse: it is larger in size. Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Ali
+come to Nyembe, thence to Nsama's, cross Lualaba at Mpweto's, follow
+left bank of that river till they cross the next Lualaba, and so into
+Lunda of Matiamvo. Much ivory may be obtained by this course, and it
+shows enterprise. Syde bin Habib and Dugumbe will open up the Lualaba
+this year, and I am hoping to enter the West Lualaba, or Young's River,
+and if possible go up to Katanga. The Lord be my guide and helper. I
+feel the want of medicine strongly, almost as much as the want of men.
+
+_16th October, 1870._--Moenemgoi, the chief, came to tell me that
+Monamyembo had sent five goats to Lohombo to get a charm to kill him.
+"Would the English and Kolokolo (Mohamad) allow him to be killed while
+they were here?" I said that it was a false report, but he believes it
+firmly: Monamyembo sent his son to assure us that he was slandered, but
+thus quarrels and bloodshed feuds arise!
+
+The great want of the Manyuema is national life, of this they have none:
+each headman is independent of every other. Of industry they have no
+lack, and the villagers are orderly towards each other, but they go no
+further. If a man of another district ventures among them, it is at his
+peril; he is not regarded with more favour as a Manyuema than one of a
+herd of buffaloes is by the rest: and he is almost sure to be killed.
+
+Moenekuss had more wisdom than his countrymen: his eldest son went over
+to Monamyembo (one of his subjects) and was there murdered by five spear
+wounds. The old chief went and asked who had slain his son. All
+professed ignorance, whilst some suggested "perhaps the Bahombo did it,"
+so he went off to them, but they also denied it and laid it at the door
+of Monamdenda, from whom he got the same reply when he arrived at his
+place--no one knew, and so the old man died. This, though he was
+heartbroken, was called witchcraft by Monamyembo. Eleven people were
+murdered, and after this cruel man was punished he sent a goat with the
+confession that he had killed Moenekuss' son. This son had some of the
+father's wisdom: the others he never could get to act like men of sense.
+
+_19th October, 1870._--Bambarre. The ringleading deserters sent Chuma to
+say that they were going with the people of Mohamad (who left to-day),
+to the Metamba, but I said that I had nought to say to them. They would
+go now to the Metamba, whom, on deserting, they said they so much
+feared, and they think nothing of having left me to go with only three
+attendants, and get my feet torn to pieces in mud and sand. They
+probably meant to go back to the women at Mamohela, who fed them in the
+absence of their husbands. They were told by Mohamad that they must not
+follow his people, and he gave orders to bind them, and send them back
+if they did. They think that no punishment will reach them whatever they
+do: they are freemen, and need not work or do anything but beg.
+"English," they call themselves, and the Arabs fear them, though the
+eagerness with which they engaged in slave-hunting showed them to be
+genuine niggers.
+
+_20th October, 1870._--The first heavy rain of this season fell
+yesterday afternoon. It is observable that the permanent halt to which
+the Manyuema have come is not affected by the appearance of superior men
+among them: they are stationary, and improvement is unknown. Moenekuss
+paid smiths to teach his sons, and they learned to work in copper and
+iron, but he never could get them to imitate his own generous and
+obliging deportment to others; he had to reprove them perpetually for
+mean shortsightedness, and when he died he virtually left no successor,
+for his sons are both narrowminded, mean, shortsighted creatures,
+without dignity or honour. All they can say of their forefathers is that
+they came from Lualaba up Luamo, then to Luelo, and thence here. The
+name seems to mean "forest people"--_Manyuema_.
+
+The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at Kanyingere's, and went
+N. and N.N.E. They found the country becoming more and more mountainous,
+till at last, approaching Morere, it was perpetually up and down. They
+slept at a village on the top, and could send for water to the bottom
+only once, it took so much time to descend and ascend. The rivers all
+flowed into Kerere or Lower Tanganyika. There is a hot fountain whose
+water could not be touched nor stones stood upon. The Balegga were very
+unfriendly, and collected in thousands. "We come to buy ivory," said
+Hassani, "and if there is none we go away." "Nay," shouted they, "you
+come to die here!" and then they shot with arrows; when musket-balls
+were returned they fled, and would not come to receive the captives.
+
+_25th October, 1870._--Bambarre. In this journey I have endeavoured to
+follow with unswerving fidelity the line of duty. My course has been an
+even one, turning neither to the right hand nor to the left, though my
+route has been tortuous enough. All the hardship, hunger, and toil were
+met with the full conviction that I was right in persevering to make a
+complete work of the exploration of the sources of the Nile. Mine has
+been a calm, hopeful endeavour to do the work that has been given me to
+do, whether I succeed or whether I fail. The prospect of death in
+pursuing what I knew to be right did not make me veer to one side or the
+other. I had a strong presentiment during the first three years that I
+should never live through the enterprise, but it weakened as I came near
+to the end of the journey, and an eager desire to discover any evidence
+of the great Moses having visited these parts bound me, spell-bound me,
+I may say, for if I could bring to light anything to confirm the Sacred
+Oracles, I should not grudge one whit all the labour expended. I have to
+go down the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake River, then up the Western or
+Young's Lake River to Katanga head waters and then retire. I pray that
+it may be to my native home.
+
+Syde bin Habib, Dugumbe, Juma Merikano, Abdullah Masendi are coming in
+with 700 muskets, and an immense store of beads, copper, &c. They will
+cross Lualaba and trade west of it: I wait for them because they may
+have letters for me.
+
+_28th October, 1870._--Moenemokata, who has travelled further than most
+Arabs, said to me, "If a man goes with a good-natured, civil tongue, he
+may pass through the worst people in Africa unharmed:" this is true, but
+time also is required: one must not run through a country, but give the
+people time to become acquainted with you, and let their first fears
+subside.
+
+_29th October, 1870._--The Manyuema buy their wives from each other; a
+pretty girl brings ten goats. I saw one brought home to-day; she came
+jauntily with but one attendant, and her husband walking behind. They
+stop five days, then go back and remain other five days at home: then
+the husband fetches her again. Many are pretty, and have perfect forms
+and limbs.
+
+_31st October, 1870._--Monangoi, of Luamo, married to the sister of
+Moenekuss, came some time ago to beg that Kanyingere might be attacked
+by Mohamad's people: no fault has he, "but he is bad." Monangoi, the
+chief here, offered two tusks to effect the same thing; on refusal, he
+sends the tusks to Katomba, and may get his countryman spoiled by him.
+"He is bad," is all they can allege as a reason. Meantime this chief
+here caught a slave who escaped, a prisoner from Moene-mokia's, and sold
+him or her to Moene-mokia for thirty spears and some knives; when asked
+about this captive, he said, "She died:" it was simply theft, but he
+does not consider himself bad.
+
+_2nd November, 1870._--The plain without trees that flanks the Lualaba
+on the right bank, called Mbuga, is densely peopled, and the
+inhabitants are all civil and friendly. From fifty to sixty large canoes
+come over from the left bank daily to hold markets; these people too
+"are good," but the dwellers in the Metamba or dense forest are
+treacherous and murder a single person without scruple: the dead body is
+easily concealed, while on the plain all would become aware of it.
+
+I long with intense desire to move on and finish my work, I have also an
+excessive wish to find anything that may exist proving the visit of the
+great Moses and the ancient kingdom of Tirhaka, but I pray give me just
+what pleases Thee my Lord, and make me submissive to Thy will in all
+things.
+
+I received information about Mr. Young's search trip up the Shire and
+Nyassa only in February 1870, and now take the first opportunity of
+offering hearty thanks in a despatch to Her Majesty's Government, and
+all concerned in kindly inquiring after my fate.
+
+Musa and his companions were fair average specimens for heartlessness
+and falsehood of the lower classes of Mohamadans in East Africa. When we
+were on the Shire we used to swing the ship into mid-stream every night,
+in order to let the air which was put in motion by the water, pass from
+end to end. Musa's brother-in-law stepped into the water one morning, in
+order to swim off for a boat, and was seized by a crocodile, the poor
+fellow held up his hand imploringly, but Musa and the rest allowed him
+to perish. On my denouncing his heartlessness, Musa-replied, "Well, no
+one tell him go in there." When at Senna a slave woman was seized by a
+crocodile: four Makololo rushed in unbidden, and rescued her, though
+they knew nothing about her: from long intercourse with both Johanna men
+and Makololo I take these incidents as typical of the two races. Those
+of mixed blood possess the vices of both races, and the virtues of
+neither.
+
+A gentleman of superior abilities[10] has devoted life and fortune to
+elevate the Johanna men, but fears that they are "an unimprovable race."
+
+The Sultan of Zanzibar, who knows his people better than any stranger,
+cannot entrust any branch of his revenue to even the better class of his
+subjects, but places all his customs, income, and money affairs, in the
+hands of Banians from India, and his father did before him.
+
+When the Mohamadan gentlemen of Zanzibar are asked "why their sovereign
+places all his pecuniary affairs and fortune in the hands of aliens?"
+they frankly avow that if he allowed any Arab to farm his customs, he
+would receive nothing but a crop of lies.
+
+Burton had to dismiss most of his people at Ujiji for dishonesty:
+Speke's followers deserted at the first approach of danger. Musa fled in
+terror on hearing a false report from a half-caste Arab about the
+Mazitu, 150 miles distant, though I promised to go due west, and not
+turn to the north till far past the beat of that tribe. The few
+liberated slaves with whom I went on had the misfortune to be Mohamadan
+slaves in boyhood, but did fairly till we came into close contact with
+Moslems again. A black Arab was released from a twelve years' bondage by
+Casembe, through my own influence and that of the Sultan's letter: we
+travelled together for a time, and he sold the favours of his female
+slaves to my people for goods which he perfectly well knew were stolen
+from me. He received my four deserters, and when I had gone off to Lake
+Bangweolo with only four attendants, the rest wished to follow, but he
+dissuaded them by saying that I had gone into a country where there was
+war: he was the direct cause of all my difficulties with these liberated
+slaves, but judged by the East African Moslem standard, as he ought to
+be, and not by ours, he isa very good man, and I did not think it
+prudent to come to a rupture with the old blackguard.
+
+"Laba" means in the Manyuema dialect "medicine;" a charm, "boganga:"
+this would make Lualaba mean the River of Medicine or charms. Hassani
+thought that it meant "great," because it seemed to mean flowing greatly
+or grandly.
+
+Casembe caught all the slaves that escaped from Mohamad, and placed them
+in charge of Fungafunga; so there is little hope for fugitive slaves so
+long as Casembe lives: this act is to the Arabs very good: he is very
+sensible, and upright besides.
+
+_3rd November, 1870._--Got a Kondohondo, the large double-billed
+Hornbill (the _Buceros cristata_), Kakomira, of the Shire, and the
+Sassassa of Bambarre. It is good eating, and has fat of an orange tinge,
+like that of the zebra; I keep the bill to make a spoon of it.
+
+An ambassador at Stamboul or Constantinople was shown a hornbill spoon,
+and asked if it were really the bill of the Phoenix. He replied that he
+did not know, but he had a friend in London who knew all these sort of
+things, so the Turkish ambassador in London brought the spoon to
+Professor Owen. He observed something in the divergences of the fibres
+of the horn which he knew before, and went off into the Museum of the
+College of Surgeons, and brought a preserved specimen of this very bird.
+"God is great--God is great," said the Turk, "this is the Phoenix of
+which we have heard so often." I heard the Professor tell this at a
+dinner of the London Hunterian Society in 1857.
+
+There is no great chief in Manyuema or Balegga; all are petty headmen,
+each of whom considers himself a chief: it is the ethnic state, with no
+cohesion between the different portions of the tribe. Murder cannot be
+punished except by a war, in which many fall, and the feud is made
+worse, and transmitted to their descendants.
+
+The heathen philosophers were content with mere guesses at the future
+of the soul. The elder prophets were content with the Divine support in
+life and in death. The later prophets advance further, as Isaiah: "Thy
+dead men shall live, together with my dead body shall they arise. Awake,
+and sing, ye that dwell in the dust: for thy dew is as the dew of herbs.
+The earth also shall cast out her dead." This, taken with the sublime
+spectacle of Hades in the fourteenth chapter, seems a forecast of the
+future, but Jesus instructed Mary and her sister and Lazarus; and Martha
+without hesitation spoke of the resurrection at the last day as a
+familiar doctrine, far in advance of the Mosaic law in which she had
+been reared.
+
+The Arabs tell me that Monyungo, a chief, was sent for five years among
+the Watuta to learn their language and ways, and he sent his two sons
+and a daughter to Zanzibar to school. He kills many of his people, and
+says they are so bad that if not killed they would murder strangers.
+Once they were unruly, when he ordered some of them to give their huts
+to Mohamad; on refusing, he put fire to them, and they soon called out,
+"Let them alone; we will retire." He dresses like an Arab, and has ten
+loaded guns at his sitting-place, four pistols, two swords, several
+spears, and two bundles of the Batuta spears: he laments that his father
+filed his teeth when he was young. The name of his very numerous people
+is Bawungu, country Urungu: his other names are Ironga, Mohamu.
+
+The Basango, on the other hand, consider their chief as a deity, and
+fear to say aught wrong, lest he should hear them: they fear both before
+him and when out of sight.
+
+The father of Merere never drank pombe or beer, and assigned as a reason
+that a great man who had charge of people's lives should never become
+intoxicated so as to do evil. Bange he never smoked, but in council
+smelled at a bunch of it, in order to make his people believe that it
+had a great effect on him. Merere drinks pombe freely, but never uses
+bange: he alone kills sheep; he is a lover of mutton and beef, but
+neither goats nor fowls are touched by him.
+
+_9th November, 1870._--I sent to Lohombo for dura, and planted some
+Nyumbo. I long excessively to be away and finish my work by the two
+Lacustrine rivers, Lualaba of Webb and Young, but wait only for Syde and
+Dugumbe, who may have letters, and as I do not intend to return hither,
+but go through Karagwe homewards, I should miss them altogether. I groan
+and am in bitterness at the delay, but thus it is: I pray for help to do
+what is right, but sorely am I perplexed, and grieved and mourn: I
+cannot give up making a complete work of the exploration.
+
+_10th November, 1870._--A party of Katomba's men arrived on their way to
+Ujiji for carriers, they report that a foray was made S.W. of Mamohela
+to recover four guns, which were captured from Katomba; three were
+recovered, and ten of the Arab party slain. The people of Manyuema
+fought very fiercely with arrows, and not till many were killed and
+others mutilated would they give up the guns; they probably expected
+this foray, and intended to fight till the last. They had not gone in
+search of ivory while this was enacting, consequently Mohamad's men have
+got the start of them completely, by going along Lualaba to Kasongo's,
+and then along the western verge of the Metamba or forest to Loinde or
+Rindi River. The last men sent took to fighting instead of trading, and
+returned empty; the experience gained thus, and at the south-west, will
+probably lead them to conclude that the Manyuema are not to be shot down
+without reasonable cause. They have sown rice and maize at Mamohela, but
+cannot trade now where they got so much ivory before. Five men were
+killed at Rindi or Loinde, and one escaped: the reason of this outbreak
+by men who have been so peaceable is not divulged, but anyone seeing the
+wholesale plunder to which the houses and gardens were subject can
+easily guess the rest. Mamohela's camp had several times been set on
+fire at night by the tribes which suffered assault, but did not effect
+all that was intended. The Arabs say that the Manyuema now understand
+that every gunshot does not kill; the next thing they will learn will
+be to grapple in close quarters in the forest, where their spears will
+outmatch the guns in the hands of slaves, it will follow, too, that no
+one will be able to pass through this country; this is the usual course
+of Suaheli trading; it is murder and plunder, and each slave as he rises
+in his owner's favour is eager to show himself a mighty man of valour,
+by cold-blooded killing of his countrymen: if they can kill a
+fellow-nigger, their pride boils up. The conscience is not enlightened
+enough to cause uneasiness, and Islam gives less than the light of
+nature.
+
+I am grievously tired of living here. Mohamad is as kind as he can be,
+but to sit idle or give up before I finish my work are both intolerable;
+I cannot bear either, yet I am forced to remain by want of people.
+
+_11th November, 1870._--I wrote to Mohamad bin Saleh at Ujiji for
+letters and medicines to be sent in a box of China tea, which is half
+empty: if he cannot get carriers for the long box itself, then he is to
+send these, the articles of which I stand in greatest need.
+
+The relatives of a boy captured at Monanyembe brought three goats to
+redeem him: he is sick and emaciated; one goat was rejected. The boy
+shed tears when he saw his grandmother, and the father too, when his
+goat was rejected. "So I returned, and considered all the oppressions
+that are done under the sun: and behold the tears of such as were
+oppressed, and they had no comforter; and on the side of their
+oppressors there was power; but they had no comforter."--Eccles. iv. 1.
+The relations were told either to bring the goat, or let the boy die;
+this was hard-hearted. At Mamohela ten goats are demanded for a captive,
+and given too; here three are demanded. "He that is higher than the
+highest regardeth, and there be higher than they. Marvel not at the
+matter."
+
+I did not write to the coast, for I suspect that the Lewale Syde bin
+Salem Buraschid destroys my letters in order to quash the affair of
+robbery by his man Saloom, he kept the other thief, Kamaels, by him for
+the same purpose. Mohamad writes to Bin Saleh to say that I am here and
+well; that I sent a large packet of letters in June 1869, with money,
+and received neither an answer, nor my box from Unyanyembe, and this is
+to be communicated to the Consul by a friend at Zanzibar. If I wrote, it
+would only be to be burned; this is as far as I can see at present: the
+friend who will communicate with the Consul is Mohamad bin Abdullah the
+Wuzeer, Seyd Suleiman is the Lewale of the Governor of Zanzibar,
+Suleiman bin Ali or _Sheikh_ Suleiman the Secretary.
+
+The Mamohela horde is becoming terrified, for every party going to trade
+has lost three or four men, and in the last foray they saw that the
+Manyuema can fight, for they killed ten men: they will soon refuse to go
+among those whom they have forced to become enemies.
+
+One of the Bazula invited a man to go with him to buy ivory; he went
+with him, and on getting into the Zulas country the stranger was asked
+by the guide if his gun killed men, and how it did it: whilst he was
+explaining the matter he was stabbed to death. No one knows the reason
+of this, but the man probably lost some of his relations elsewhere: this
+is called murder without cause. When Syde and Dugumbe come, I hope to
+get men and a canoe to finish my work among those who have not been
+abused by Ujijians, and still retain their natural kindness of
+disposition; none of the people are ferocious without cause; and the
+sore experience which they gain from slaves with guns in their hands
+usually ends in sullen hatred of all strangers.
+
+The education of the world is a terrible one, and it has come down with
+relentless rigour on Africa from the most remote times! What the African
+will become after this awfully hard lesson is learned, is among the
+future developments of Providence. When He, who is higher than the
+highest, accomplishes His purposes, this will be a wonderful country,
+and again something like what it was of old, when Zerah and Tirhaka
+flourished, and were great.
+
+The soil of Manyuema is clayey and remarkably fertile, the maize sown in
+it rushes up to seed, and everything is in rank profusion if only it be
+kept clear of weeds, but the Bambarre people are indifferent
+cultivators, planting maize, bananas and plantains, and ground-nuts
+only--no dura, a little cassava, no pennisetum, meleza, pumpkins,
+melons, or nyumbo, though they all flourish in other districts: a few
+sweet potatoes appear, but elsewhere all these native grains and roots
+are abundant and cheap. No one would choose this as a residence, except
+for the sake of Moenekuss. Oil is very dear, while at Lualaba a gallon
+may be got for a single string of beads, and beans, ground-nuts,
+cassava, maize, plantains in rank profusion. The Balegga, like the
+Bambarre people, trust chiefly to plantains and ground-nuts; to play
+with parrots is their great amusement.
+
+_13th November, 1870._--The men sent over to Lohombo, about thirty miles
+off, got two and a half loads of dura for a small goat, but the people
+were unwilling to trade. "If we encourage Arabs to trade, they will come
+and kill us with their guns," so they said, and it is true: the slaves
+are overbearing, and when this is resented, then slaughter ensues. I got
+some sweet plantains and a little oil, which is useful in cooking, and
+with salt, passes for butter on bread, but all were unwilling to trade.
+Monangoi was over near Lohombo, and heard of a large trading party
+coming, and not far off; this may be Syde and Dugumbe, but reports are
+often false. When Katomba's men were on the late foray, they were
+completely overpowered, and compelled by the Manyuema to lay down their
+guns and powder-horns, on pain of being instantly despatched by bow-shot:
+they were mostly slaves, who could only draw the trigger and make a
+noise. Katomba had to rouse out all the Arabs who could shoot, and when
+they came they killed many, and gained the lost day; the Manyuema did
+not kill anyone who laid down his gun and powder-horn. This is the
+beginning of an end which was easily perceived when it became not a
+trading, but a foray of a murdering horde of savages.
+
+The foray above mentioned was undertaken by Katomba for twenty goats
+from Kassessa!--ten men lost for twenty goats, but they will think twice
+before they try another foray.
+
+A small bird follows the "Sassassa" or _Buceros cristata_. It screams
+and pecks at his tail till he discharges the contents of his bowels, and
+then leaves him; it is called "play" by the natives, and by the Suaheli
+"Utane" or "Msaha"--fun or wit; he follows other birds in the same
+merciless way, screaming and pecking to produce purging; Manyuema call
+this bird "Mambambwa." The buffalo bird warns its big friend of danger,
+by calling "Chachacha," and the rhinoceros bird cries out, "Tye, tye,
+tye, tye," for the same purpose. The Manyuema call the buffalo bird
+"Mojela," and the Suaheli, "Chassa." A climbing plant in Africa is known
+as "Ntulungope," which mixed with flour of dura kills mice; they swarm
+in our camp and destroy everything, but Ntulungope is not near this.
+
+The Arabs tell me that one dollar a day is ample for provisions for a
+large family at Zanzibar; the food consists of wheat, rice, flesh of
+goats or ox, fowls, bananas, milk, butter, sugar, eggs, mangoes, and
+potatoes. Ambergris is boiled in milk and sugar, and used by the Hindoos
+as a means of increasing blood in their systems; a small quantity is a
+dose; it is found along the shore of the sea at Barawa or Brava, and at
+Madagascar, as if the sperm whale got rid of it while alive. Lamoo or
+Amu is wealthy, and well supplied with everything, as grapes, peaches,
+wheat, cattle, camels, &c. The trade is chiefly with Madagascar: the
+houses are richly furnished with furniture, dishes from India, &c. At
+Garaganza there are hundreds of Arab traders, there too all fruits
+abound, and the climate is healthy, from its elevation. Why cannot we
+missionaries imitate these Arabs in living on heights?
+
+_24th November, 1870._--Herpes is common at the plantations in Zanzibar,
+but the close crowding of the houses in the town they think prevents it;
+the lips and mouth are affected, and constipation sets in for three
+days, all this is cured by going over to the mainland. Affections of the
+lungs are healed by residence at Bariwa or Brava, and also on the
+mainland. The Tafori of Halfani took my letters from Ujiji, but who the
+person employed is I do not know.
+
+_29th November, 1870._--_Safura_ is the name of the disease of clay or
+earth eating, at Zanzibar; it often affects slaves, and the clay is said
+to have a pleasant odour to the eaters, but it is not confined to
+slaves, nor do slaves eat in order to kill themselves; it is a diseased
+appetite, and rich men who have plenty to eat are often subject to it.
+The feet swell, flesh is lost, and the face looks haggard; the patient
+can scarcely walk for shortness of breath and weakness, and he continues
+eating till he dies. Here many slaves are now diseased with safura; the
+clay built in walls is preferred, and Manyuema women when pregnant often
+eat it. The cure is effected by drastic purges composed as follows: old
+vinegar of cocoa-trees is put into a large basin, and old slag red-hot
+cast into it, then "Moneye," asafoetida, half a rupee in weight,
+copperas, sulph. ditto: a small glass of this, fasting morning and
+evening, produces vomiting and purging of black dejections, this is
+continued for seven days; no meat is to be eaten, but only old rice or
+dura and water; a fowl in course of time: no fish, butter, eggs, or
+beef for two years on pain of death. Mohamad's father had skill in the
+cure, and the above is his prescription. Safura is thus a disease _per
+se_; it is common in Manyuema, and makes me in a measure content to wait
+for my medicines; from the description, inspissated bile seems to be the
+agent of blocking up the gall-duct and duodenum and the clay or earth
+may be nature trying to clear it away: the clay appears unchanged in the
+stools, and in large quantity. A Banyamwezi carrier, who bore an
+enormous load of copper, is now by safura scarcely able to walk; he took
+it at Lualaba where food is abundant, and he is contented with his lot.
+Squeeze a finger-nail, and if no blood appears beneath it, safura is the
+cause of the bloodlessness.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] A precisely similar epidemic broke out at the settlement at
+Magomero, in which fifty-four of the slaves liberated by Dr.
+Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie died. This disease is by far the most
+fatal scourge the natives suffer from, not even excepting small-pox.
+It is common throughout Tropical Africa. We believe that some
+important facts have recently been brought to light regarding it, and
+we can only trust sincerely that the true nature of the disorder will
+be known in time, so that it may be successfully treated: at present
+change of air and high feeding on a meat diet are the best remedies we
+know.--ED.
+
+[9] Dr. Livingstone never ceased to impress upon Europeans the utter
+necessity of living on the high table-lands of the interior, rather
+than on the sea-board or the banks of the great arterial rivers. Men
+may escape death in an unhealthy place, but the system is enfeebled
+and energy reduced to the lowest ebb. Under such circumstances life
+becomes a misery, and important results can hardly be looked for when
+one's vitality is preoccupied in wrestling with the unhealthiness of
+the situation, day and night.--ED.
+
+[10] Mr. John Sunley, of Pomone, Johanna, an island in the Comoro
+group.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials.
+    Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings
+    about Merere. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest
+    disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarre. Goitre.
+    News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The
+    parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as
+    servants. They refuse to go north. Parts at last with
+    malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan.
+    Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko.
+    Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to
+    eat a white one." Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore
+    and sick of blood. Approach Nyangwe. Reaches the Lualaba.
+
+
+_6th December, 1870._--Oh, for Dugumbe or Syde to come! but this delay
+may be all for the best. The parrots all seize their food, and hold it
+with the left hand, the lion, too, is left-handed; he strikes with the
+left, so are all animals left-handed save man.
+
+I noticed a very pretty woman come past this quite jauntily about a
+month ago, on marriage with Monasimba. Ten goats were given; her friends
+came and asked another goat, which being refused, she was enticed away,
+became sick of rheumatic fever two days afterwards, and died yesterday.
+Not a syllable of regret for the beautiful young creature does one hear,
+but for the goats: "Oh, our ten goats!"--they cannot grieve too
+much--"Our ten goats--oh! oh!"
+
+Basanga wail over those who die in bed, but not over those who die in
+battle: the cattle are a salve for all sores. Another man was killed
+within half a mile of this: they quarrelled, and there is virtually no
+chief. The man was stabbed, the village burned, and the people all fled:
+they are truly a bloody people!
+
+A man died near this, Monasimba went to his wife, and after washing he
+may appear among men. If no widow can be obtained, he must sit naked
+behind his house till some one happens to die, all the clothes he wore
+are thrown away. They are the lowest of the low, and especially in
+bloodiness: the man who killed a woman without cause goes free, he
+offered his grandmother to be killed in his stead, and after a great
+deal of talk nothing was done to him!
+
+_8th December, 1870._--Suleiman-bin-Juma lived on the mainland,
+Mosessame, opposite Zanzibar: it is impossible to deny his power of
+foresight, except by rejecting all evidence, for he frequently foretold
+the deaths of great men among Arabs, and he was pre-eminently a good
+man, upright and sincere: "Thirti," none like him now for goodness and
+skill. He said that two middle-sized white men, with straight noses and
+flowing hair down to the girdle behind, came at times, and told him
+things to come. He died twelve years ago, and left no successor; he
+foretold his own decease three days beforehand by cholera. "Heresi," a
+ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, is a grand charm to the
+animal and to Arabs. Mohamad has one.
+
+_10th December, 1870._--I am sorely let and hindered in this Manyuema.
+Rain every day, and often at night; I could not travel now, even if I
+had men, but I could make some progress; this is the sorest delay I ever
+had. I look above for help and mercy.
+
+[The wearied man tried to while away the time by gaining little scraps
+of information from the Arabs and the natives, but we cannot fail to see
+what a serious stress was all the time put upon his constitution under
+these circumstances; the reader will pardon the disjointed nature of
+his narrative, written as it was under the greatest disadvantage.]
+
+
+Lion's fat is regarded as a sure preventive of tsetse or bungo. This was
+noted before, but I add now that it is smeared on the ox's tail, and
+preserves hundreds of the Banyamwesi cattle in safety while going to the
+coast; it is also used to keep pigs and hippopotami away from gardens:
+the smell is probably the efficacious part in "Heresi," as they call it.
+
+_12th December, 1870._--It may be all for the best that I am so
+hindered, and compelled to inactivity.
+
+An advance to Lohombo was the furthest point of traders for many a day,
+for the slaves returning with ivory were speared mercilessly by
+Manyuema, because they did not know guns could kill, and their spears
+could. Katomba coming to Moenekuss was a great feat three or four years
+ago; then Dugumbe went on to Lualaba, and fought his way, so I may be
+restrained now in mercy till men come.
+
+The Neggeri, an African animal, attacks the tenderest parts of man and
+beast, cuts them off, and retires contented: buffaloes are often
+castrated by him. Men who know it, squat down, and kill him with knife
+or gun. The Zibu or mbuide flies at the tendon Achilles; it is most
+likely the Ratel.
+
+The Fisi ea bahari, probably the seal, is abundant in the seas, but the
+ratel or badger probably furnished the skins for the Tabernacle: bees
+escape from his urine, and he eats their honey in safety; lions and all
+other animals fear his attacks of the heel.
+
+The Babemba mix a handful (about twenty-five to a measure) of castor-oil
+seeds with the dura and meleza they grind, and usage makes them like it,
+the nauseous taste is not perceptible in porridge; the oil is needed
+where so much farinaceous or starchy matter exists, and the bowels are
+regulated by the mixture: experience has taught them the need of a fatty
+ingredient.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been anxious to procure all the
+information possible from the Arabs respecting the powerful chief
+Merere, who is reported to live on the borders of the Salt Water Lake,
+which lies between Lake Tanganyika and the East Coast. It would seem as
+if Merere held the most available road for travellers passing to the
+south-west from Zanzibar, and although the Doctor did not go through his
+country, he felt an interest no doubt in ascertaining as much as he
+could for the benefit of others.]
+
+Goambari is a prisoner at Merere's, guarded by a thousand or more men,
+to prevent him intriguing with Monyungo, who is known as bloodthirsty.
+In the third generation Charura's descendants numbered sixty able-bodied
+spearmen, Garahenga or Kimamure killed many of them. Charura had six
+white attendants with him, but all died before he did, and on becoming
+chief he got all his predecessor's wives. Merere is the son of a woman
+of the royal stock, and of a common man, hence he is a shade or two
+darker than Charura's descendants, who are very light coloured, and have
+straight noses. They shave the head, and straight hair is all cut off;
+they drink much milk, warm, from the teats of the cows, and think that
+it is strengthening by its heat.
+
+_December 23rd, 1870._--Bambarre people suffer hunger now because they
+will not plant cassava; this trading party eats all the maize, and sends
+to a distance for more, and the Manyuema buy from them with malofu, or
+palm-toddy. Rice is all coming into ear, but the Manyuema planted none:
+maize is ripening, and mice are a pest. A strong man among the Manyuema
+does what he pleases, and no chief interferes: for instance, a man's
+wife for ten goats was given off to a Mene man, and his child, now
+grown, is given away, too; he comes to Mohamad for redress! Two
+elephants killed were very large, but have only small tusks: they come
+from the south in the rains. All animals, as elephants, buffaloes, and
+zebras, are very large in the Basango country; tusks are full in the
+hollows, and weigh very heavy, and animals are fat and good in flesh:
+eleven goats are the exchange for the flesh of an elephant.
+
+[The following details respecting ivory cannot fail to be interesting
+here: they are very kindly furnished by Mr. F.D. Blyth, whose long
+experience enables him to speak with authority upon the subject. He
+says, England imports about 550 tons of ivory annually,--of this 280
+tons pass away to other countries, whilst the remainder is used by our
+manufacturers, of whom the Sheffield cutlers alone require about 170
+tons. The whole annual importation is derived from the following
+countries, and in the quantities given below, as near as one can
+approach to actual figures:
+
+    Bombay and Zanzibar export      160 tons.
+    Alexandria and Malta            180 "
+    West Coast of Africa            140 "
+    Cape of Good Hope                50 "
+    Mozambique                       20 "
+
+The Bombay merchants collect ivory from all the southern countries of
+Asia, and the East Coast of Africa, and after selecting that which is
+most suited to the wants of the Indian and Chinese markets, ship the
+remainder to Europe.
+
+From Alexandria and Malta we receive ivory collected from Northern and
+Central Africa, from Egypt, and the countries through which the Nile
+flows.
+
+Immediately after the Franco-German war the value of ivory increased
+considerably; and when we look at the prices realized on large Zanzibar
+tusks at the public sales, we can well understand the motive power which
+drove the Arab ivory hunters further and further into the country from
+which the chief supply was derived when Dr. Livingstone met them.
+
+    In 1867 their price varied from L39 to L42.
+     " 1868    "   "     "      "    39  "  42.
+     " 1869    "   "     "      "    41  "  44.
+     " 1870    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1871    "   "     "      "    do. "  do.
+     " 1872    "   "     "      "    58  "  61.
+     " 1873    "   "     "      "    68  "  72.
+     " 1874    "   "     "      "    53  "  58.
+
+Single tusks vary in weight from 1 lb. to 165 lbs.: the average of a
+pair of tusks may be put at 28 lbs., and therefore 44,000 elephants,
+large and small, must be killed yearly to supply the ivory which _comes
+to England alone_, and when we remember that an enormous quantity goes
+to America, to India and China, for consumption there, and of which we
+have no account, some faint notion may be formed of the destruction that
+goes on amongst the herds of elephants.
+
+Although naturalists distinguish only two living species of elephants,
+viz. the African and the Asiatic, nevertheless there is a great
+difference in the size, character, and colour of their tusks, which may
+arise from variations in climate, soil, and food. The largest tusks are
+yielded by the African elephant, and find their way hither from the port
+of Zanzibar: they are noted for being opaque, soft or "mellow" to work,
+and free from cracks or defects.
+
+The tusks from India, Ceylon, &c, are smaller in size, partly of an
+opaque character, and partly translucent (or, as it is technically
+called "bright"), and harder and more cracked, but those from Siam and
+the neighbouring countries are very "bright," soft, and fine grained;
+they are much sought after for carvings and ornamental work. Tusks from
+Mozambique and the Cape of Good Hope seldom exceed 70 lbs. in weight
+each: they are similar in character to the Zanzibar kind.
+
+Tusks which come through Alexandria and Malta differ considerably in
+quality: some resemble those from Zanzibar, whilst others are white and
+opaque, harder to work, and more cracked at the points; and others again
+are very translucent and hard, besides being liable to crack: this
+latter description fetches a much lower price in the market.
+
+From the West Coast of Africa we get ivory which is always translucent,
+with a dark outside or coating, but partly hard and partly soft.
+
+The soft ivory which comes from Ambriz, the Gaboon River, and the ports
+south of the equator, is more highly valued than any other, and is
+called "silver grey": this sort retains its whiteness when exposed to
+the air, and is free from that tendency to become yellowish in time
+which characterises Asiatic and East African ivory.
+
+Hard tusks, as a rule, are proportionately smaller in diameter, sharper,
+and less worn than soft ones, and they come to market much more cracked,
+fetching in consequence a lower price.
+
+In addition to the above a few tons of Mammoth ivory are received from
+time to time from the Arctic regions and Siberia, and although of
+unknown antiquity, some tusks are equal in every respect to ivory which
+is obtained in the present day from elephants newly killed; this, no
+doubt, is owing to the preservative effects of the ice in which the
+animals have been imbedded for many thousands of years. In the year 1799
+the entire carcase of a mammoth was taken from the ice, and the skeleton
+and portions of the skin, still covered with reddish hair, are preserved
+in the Museum of St. Petersburg: it is said that portions of the flesh
+were eaten by the men who dug it out of the ice.]
+
+
+_24th December, 1870._--Between twenty-five and thirty slaves have died
+in the present epidemic, and many Manyuema; two yesterday at Kandawara.
+The feet swell, then the hands and face, and in a day or two they drop
+dead; it came from the East, and is very fatal, for few escape who take
+it.
+
+A woman was accused of stealing maize, and the chief here sent all his
+people yesterday, plundered all she had in her house and garden, and
+brought her husband bound in thongs till he shall pay a goat: she is
+said to be innocent.
+
+Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here; and, as the people tell
+him, as soon as they are gone the vengeance he is earning by injustice
+on all sides will be taken: I told the chief that his head would be cut
+off as soon as the traders leave, and so it will be; and Kasessa's also.
+
+Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo's to buy Viramba, and a man was
+speared belonging to Kasongo, these three then fired into a mass of men
+who collected, one killed two, another three, and so on; so now that
+place is shut up from traders, and all this country will be closed as
+soon as the Manyuema learn that guns are limited in their power of
+killing, and especially in the hands of slaves, who cannot shoot, but
+only make a noise. These Suaheli are the most cruel and bloodthirsty
+missionaries in existence, and withal so impure in talk and acts,
+spreading disease everywhere. The Lord sees it.
+
+_28th December, 1870._--Moenembegg, the most intelligent of the two sons
+of Moenekuss, in power, told us that a man was killed and eaten a few
+miles from this yesterday: hunger was the reason assigned. On speaking
+of tainted meat, he said that the Manyuema put meat in water for two
+days to make it putrid and smell high. The love of high meat is the only
+reason I know for their cannibalism, but the practice is now hidden on
+account of the disgust that the traders expressed against open
+man-eating when they first arrived.
+
+Lightning was very near us last night. The Manyuema say that when it is
+so loud fishes of large size fall with it, an opinion shared by the
+Arabs, but the large fish is really the _Clarias Capensis_ of Smith, and
+it is often seen migrating in single file along the wet grass for miles:
+it is probably this that the Manyuema think falls from the lightning.
+
+The strangest disease I have seen in this country seems really to be
+broken-heartedness, and it attacks free men who have been captured and
+made slaves. My attention was drawn to it when the elder brother of Syde
+bin Habib was killed in Rua by a night attack, from a spear being
+pitched through his tent into his side. Syde then vowed vengeance for
+the blood of his brother, and assaulted all he could find, killing the
+elders, and making the young men captives. He had secured a very large
+number, and they endured the chains until they saw the broad River
+Lualaba roll between them and their free homes; they then lost heart.
+Twenty-one were unchained as being now safe; however, all ran away at
+once, but eight, with many others still in chains, died in three days
+after crossing. They ascribed their only pain to the heart, and placed
+the hand correctly on the spot, though many think that the organ stands
+high up under the breast bone. Some slavers expressed surprise to me
+that they should die, seeing they had plenty to eat and no work. One
+fine boy of about twelve years was carried, and when about to expire,
+was kindly laid down on the side of the path, and a hole dug to deposit
+the body in. He, too, said he had nothing the matter with him, except
+pain in his heart: as it attacks only the free (who are captured and
+never slaves), it seems to be really broken-hearts of which they die.
+
+[Livingstone's servants give some additional particulars in answer to
+questions put to them about this dreadful history. The sufferings
+endured by these unfortunate captives, whilst they were hawked about in
+different directions, must have been shocking indeed; many died because
+it was impossible for them to carry a burden on the head whilst marching
+in the heavy yoke or "taming stick," which weighs from 30 lbs. to 40
+lbs. as a rule, and the Arabs knew that if once the stick were taken
+off, the captive would escape on the first opportunity. Children for a
+time would keep up with wonderful endurance, but it happened sometimes
+that the sound of dancing and the merry tinkle of the small drums would
+fall on their ears in passing near to a village; then the memory of home
+and happy days proved too much for them; they cried and sobbed, the
+"broken-heart" came on, and they rapidly sank.
+
+The adults as a rule came into the slave-sticks from treachery, and had
+never been slaves before. Very often the Arabs would promise a present
+of dried fish to villagers if they would act as guides to some distant
+point, and as soon as they were far enough away from their friends they
+were seized and pinned into the yoke from which there is no escape.
+These poor fellows would expire in the way the Doctor mentions, talking
+to the last of their wives and children who would never know what had
+become of them. On one occasion twenty captives succeeded in escaping as
+follows. Chained together by the neck, and in the custody of an Arab
+armed with a gun, they were sent off to collect wood; at a given signal,
+one of them called the guard to look at something which he pretended he
+had found: when he stooped down they threw themselves upon him and
+overpowered him, and after he was dead managed to break the chain and
+make off in all directions.]
+
+Rice sown on 19th October was in ear in seventy days. A leopard killed
+my goat, and a gun set for him went off at 10 P.M.--the ball broke both
+hind legs and one fore leg, yet he had power to spring up and bite a man
+badly afterwards; he was a male, 2 feet 4 inches at withers, and 6 feet
+8 inches from tip of nose to end of tail.
+
+_1st January, 1871._--O Father! help me to finish this work to Thy
+honour.
+
+Still detained at Bambarre, but a caravan of 500 muskets is reported
+from the coast: it may bring me other men and goods.
+
+Rain daily. A woman was murdered without cause close by the camp; the
+murderer said she was a witch and speared her: the body is exposed till
+the affair is settled, probably by a fine of goats.
+
+The Manyuema are the most bloody, callous savages I know; one puts a
+scarlet feather from a parrot's tail on the ground, and challenges those
+near to stick it in the hair: he who does so must kill a man or woman!
+
+Another custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk cat, Ngawa,
+unless he has murdered somebody: guns alone prevent them from killing us
+all, and for no reason either.
+
+_16th January, 1871._--Ramadan ended last night, and it is probable my
+people and others from the coast will begin to travel after three days
+of feasting. It has been so rainy I could have done little though I had
+had people.
+
+_22nd January, 1871._--A party is reported to be on the way hither. This
+is likely enough, but reports are so often false that doubts arise.
+Mohamad says he will give men when the party of Hassani comes, or when
+Dugumbe arrives.
+
+_24th January, 1871._--Mohamad mentioned this morning that Moene-mokaia,
+and Moeneghera his brother, brought about thirty slaves from Katanga to
+Ujiji, affected with swelled thyroid glands or "_Goitre_," and that
+drinking the water of Tanganyika proved a perfect cure to all in a very
+few days. Sometimes the swelling went down in two days after they began
+to use the water, in their ordinary way of cooking, washing, and
+drinking: possibly some ingredient of the hot fountain that flows into
+it affects the cure, for the people on the Lofubu, in Nsama's country,
+had the swelling. The water in bays is decidedly brackish, while the
+body of Tanganyika is quite fresh.
+
+The odour of putrid elephant's meat in a house kills parrots: the
+Manyuema keep it till quite rotten, but know its fatal effects on their
+favourite birds.
+
+_27th January, 1871._--Safari or caravan reported to be near, and my men
+and goods at Ujiji.
+
+_28th January, 1871._--A safari, under Hassani and Ebed, arrived with
+news of great mortality by cholera (_Towny_), at Zanzibar, and my
+"brother," whom I conjecture to be Dr. Kirk, has fallen. The men I wrote
+for have come to Ujiji, but did not know my whereabouts; when told by
+Katomba's men they will come here, and bring my much longed for letters
+and goods. 70,000 victims in Zanzibar alone from cholera, and it spread
+inland to the Masoi and Ugogo! Cattle shivered, and fell dead: the
+fishes in the sea died in great numbers; here the fowls were first
+seized and died, but not from cholera, only from its companion. Thirty
+men perished in our small camp, made still smaller by all the able men
+being off trading at the Metamba, and how many Manyuema died we do not
+know; the survivors became afraid of eating the dead.
+
+Formerly the Cholera kept along the sea-shore, now it goes far inland,
+and will spread all over Africa; this we get from Mecca filth, for
+nothing was done to prevent the place being made a perfect cesspool of
+animals' guts and ordure of men.[11] A piece of skin bound round the
+chest of a man, and half of it hanging down, prevents waste of strength,
+and he forgets and fattens.
+
+Ebed's party bring 200 frasilahs of all sorts of beads; they will cross
+Lualaba, and open a new field on the other, or Young's Lualaba: all
+Central Africa will soon be known: the evils inflicted by these Arabs
+are enormous, but probably not greater than the people inflict on each
+other. Merere has turned against the Arabs, and killed one; robbing
+several others of all they had, though he has ivory sufficient to send
+down 7000 lbs. to the coast, and receive loads of goods for 500 men in
+return. He looks as if insane, and probably is so, and will soon be
+killed. His insanity may be the effect of pombe, of which he drinks
+largely, and his people may have told him that the Arabs were plotting
+with Goambari. He restored Mohamad's ivory and slaves, and sent for the
+other traders who had fled, saying his people had spoken badly, and he
+would repay all losses.
+
+The Watuta (who are the same as the Mazitu) came stealing Banyamwezi
+cattle, and Mteza's men went out to them, and twenty-two were killed,
+but the Lewale's people did nothing. The Governor's sole anxiety is to
+obtain ivory, and no aid is rendered to traders. Seyed Suleiman the
+Wazeer is the author of the do-nothing policy, and sent away all the
+sepoys as too expensive, consequently the Wagogo plunder traders
+unchecked. It is reported that Egyptian Turks came up and attacked
+Mteza, but lost many people, and fled. The report of a Moslem Mission to
+his country was a falsehood, though the details given were
+circumstantial: falsehood is so common, one can believe nothing the
+Arabs say, unless confirmed by other evidence: they are the followers of
+the Prince of lies--Mohamad, whose cool appropriation of the knowledge
+gained at Damascus, and from the Jews, is perfectly disgusting. All his
+deeds were done when unseen by any witnesses. It is worth noticing that
+all admit the decadence of the Moslem power, and they ask how it is so
+fallen? They seem sincere in their devotion and in teaching the Koran,
+but its meaning is comparatively hid from most of the Suaheli. The
+Persian Arabs are said to be gross idolators, and awfully impure. Earth
+from a grave at Kurbelow (?) is put in the turban and worshipped: some
+of the sects won't say "Amen."
+
+Moenyegumbe never drank more than a mouthful of pombe. When young, he
+could make his spear pass right through an elephant, and stick in the
+ground on the other side. He was a large man, and all his members were
+largely developed, his hands and fingers were all in proportion to his
+great height; and he lived to old age with strength unimpaired: Goambari
+inherits his white colour and sharp nose, but not his wisdom or courage.
+Merere killed five of his own people for exciting him against the Arabs.
+The half-caste is the murderer of many of Charura's descendants. His
+father got a daughter of Moenyegumbe for courage in fighting the Babema
+of Ubena.
+
+Cold-blooded murders are frightfully common here. Some kill people in
+order to be allowed to wear the red tail feathers of a parrot in their
+hair, and yet they are not ugly like the West Coast Negroes, for many
+men have as finely formed heads as could be found in London. We English,
+if naked, would make but poor figures beside the strapping forms and
+finely shaped limbs of Manyuema men and women. Their cannibalism is
+doubtful, but my observations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch jury
+would say, "Not proven." The women are not guilty.
+
+_4th February, 1871._--Ten of my men from the coast have come near to
+Bambarre, and will arrive to-day. I am extremely thankful to hear it,
+for it assures me that my packet of letters was not destroyed; they know
+at home by this time what has detained me, and the end to which I
+strain.
+
+Only one letter reached, and forty are missing! James was killed to-day
+by an arrow: the assassin was hid in the forest till my men going to buy
+food came up.[12] I propose to leave on the 12th. I have sent Dr. Kirk a
+cheque for Rs. 4000: great havoc was made by cholera, and in the midst
+of it my friend exerted himself greatly to get men off to me with goods;
+the first gang of porters all died.
+
+_8th February, 1871._--The ten men refusing to go north are influenced
+probably by Shereef, and my two ringleaders, who try this means to
+compel me to take them.
+
+_9th February, 1871._--The man who contrived the murder of James came
+here, drawn by the pretence that he was needed to lead a party against
+the villages, which he led to commit the outrage. His thirst for blood
+is awful: he was bound, and word sent to bring the actual murderers
+within three days, or he suffers death. He brought five goats, thinking
+that would smooth the matter over.
+
+_11th February, 1871._--Men struck work for higher wages: I consented to
+give them six dollars a month if they behaved well; if ill I diminish
+it, so we hope to start to-morrow. Another hunting quelled by Mohamad
+and me.
+
+The ten men sent are all slaves of the Banians, who are English
+subjects, and they come with a lie in their mouth: they will not help
+me, and swear that the Consul told them not to go forward, but to force
+me back, and they spread the tale all over the country that a certain
+letter has been sent to me with orders to return forthwith. They swore
+so positively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk's letter to see
+if his orders had been rightly understood by me. But for Mohamad
+Bogharib and fear of pistol-shot they would gain their own and their
+Banian masters' end to baffle me completely; they demand an advance of
+one dollar, or six dollars a month, though this is double freeman's pay
+at Zanzibar. Their two headmen, Shereef and Awathe, refused to come past
+Ujiji, and are revelling on my goods there.
+
+_13th February, 1871._--Mabruki being seized with choleraic purging
+detains us to-day. I gave Mohamad five pieces Americano, five ditto
+Kanike,[13] and two frasilahs samisami beads. He gives me a note to
+Hassani for twenty thick copper bracelets. Yesterday crowds came to eat
+the meat of the man who misled James to his death spot: but we want the
+men who set the Mbanga men to shoot him: they were much disappointed
+when they found that no one was killed, and are undoubtedly cannibals.
+
+_16th, February, 1871._--Started to-day. Mabruki making himself out
+very ill, Mohamad roused him out by telling him I travelled when much
+worse. The chief gave me a goat, and Mohamad another, but in coming
+through the forest on the neck of the mountain the men lost three, and
+have to go back for them, and return to-morrow. Simon and Ibram were
+bundled out of the camp, and impudently followed me: when they came
+up, I told them to be off.
+
+_17th February, 1871._--Waiting at a village on the Western slope for
+the men to come up with the goats, if they have gone back to the camp.
+Mohamad would not allow the deserters to remain among his people, nor
+would I. It would only be to imbue the minds of my men with their want
+of respect for all English, and total disregard of honesty and honour:
+they came after me with inimitable effrontery, believing that though I
+said I would not take them, they were so valuable, I was only saying
+what I knew to be false. The goats were brought by a Manyuema man, who
+found one fallen into a pitfall and dead; he ate it, and brought one of
+his own in lieu of it. I gave him ten strings of beads, and he presented
+a fowl in token of goodwill.
+
+_18th February, 1871._--Went on to a village on the Lulwa, and on the
+19th reached Moenemgoi, who dissuaded me so earnestly against going to
+Moenekurumbo for the cause of Molembalemba that I agreed not to venture.
+
+_20th February, 1871._--To the ford with only one canoe now, as two men
+of Katomba were swept away in the other, and drowned. They would not
+sell the remaining canoe, so I go N.W. on foot to Moene Lualaba, where
+fine large canoes are abundant. The grass and mud are grievous, but my
+men lift me over the waters.
+
+_21st February, 1871._--Arrived at Monandewa's village, situated on a
+high ridge between two deep and difficult gullies. These people are
+obliging and kind: the chief's wife made a fire for me in the evening
+unbidden.
+
+_22nd February, 1871._--On N.W. to a high hill called Chibande a Yunde,
+with a spring of white water at the village on the top. Famine from some
+unknown cause here, but the people are cultivating now on the plain
+below with a will.
+
+_23rd February, 1871._--On to two large villages with many banana plants
+around, but the men said they were in fear of the traders, and shifted
+their villages to avoid them: we then went on to the village
+Kahombogola, with a feeble old man as chief. The country is beautiful
+and undulating: light-green grass covers it all, save at the brooks,
+where the eye is relieved by the dark-green lines of trees. Grass tears
+the hands and wets the extremities constantly. The soil is formed of the
+debris of granitic rocks; rough and stony, but everywhere fertile. One
+can rarely get a bare spot to sit down and rest.
+
+_24th February, 1871._--To a village near Lolande River. Then across
+the Loengadye, sleeping on the bank of the Luha, and so to Mamohela,
+where we were welcomed by all the Arabs, and I got a letter from Dr.
+Kirk and another from the Sultan, and from Mohamad bin Nassib who was
+going to Karagwe: all anxious to be kind. Katomba gave flour, nuts,
+fowls, and goat. A new way is opened to Kasongo's, much shorter than
+that I followed. I rest a few days, and then go on.
+
+_25th February, 1871._--So we went on, and found that it was now known
+that the Lualaba flowed west-south-west, and that our course was to be
+west across this other great bend of the mighty river. I had to suspend
+my judgment, so as to be prepared to find it after all perhaps the
+Congo. No one knew anything about it except that when at Kasongo's nine
+days west, and by south it came sweeping round and flowed north and
+north and by east.
+
+Katomba presented a young soko or gorillah that had been caught while
+its mother was killed; she sits eighteen inches high, has fine long
+black hair all over, which was pretty so long as it was kept in order by
+her dam. She is the least mischievous of all the monkey tribe I have
+seen, and seems to know that in me she has a friend, and sits quietly on
+the mat beside me. In walking, the first thing observed is that she does
+not tread on the palms of her hands, but on the backs of the second line
+of bones of the hands: in doing this the nails do not touch the ground,
+nor do the knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported crutch fashion,
+and hitches herself along between them; occasionally one hand is put
+down before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she walks
+upright and holds up a hand to any one to carry her. If refused, she
+turns her face down, and makes grimaces of the most bitter human
+weeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes adding a fourth hand or foot
+to make the appeal more touching. Grass or leaves she draws around her
+to make a nest, and resents anyone meddling with her property. She is a
+most friendly little beast, and came up to me at once, making her
+chirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, and held out her hand to be
+shaken. I slapped her palm without offence, though she winced. She began
+to untie the cord with which she was afterwards bound, with fingers and
+thumbs, in quite a systematic way, and on being interfered with by a man
+looked daggers, and screaming tried to beat him with her hands: she was
+afraid of his stick, and faced him, putting her back to me as a friend.
+She holds out her hand for people to lift her up and carry her, quite
+like a spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry, somewhat like
+that of a kite, wrings her hands quite naturally, as if in despair. She
+eats everything, covers herself with a mat to sleep, and makes a nest of
+grass or leaves, and wipes her face with a leaf.
+
+I presented my double-barrelled gun which is at Ujiji to Katomba, as he
+has been very kind when away from Ujiji: I pay him thus for all his
+services. He gave me the soko, and will carry it to Ujiji for me; I have
+tried to refund all that the Arabs expended on me.
+
+_1st March, 1871._--I was to start this morning, but the Arabs asked me
+to take seven of their people going to buy biramba, as they know the new
+way: the offer was gladly accepted.
+
+_2nd to 5th March, 1871._--Left Mamohela, and travelled over fine grassy
+plains, crossing in six hours fourteen running rills, from three to ten
+or fifteen feet broad, and from calf to thigh deep. Tree-covered
+mountains on both sides. The natives know the rills by names, and
+readily tell their courses, and which falls into which, before all go
+into the great Lualaba; but without one as a guide, no one can put them
+in a map. We came to Monanbunda's villages, and spent the night. Our
+next stage was at Monangongo's. A small present of a few strings of
+beads satisfies, but is not asked: I give it invariably as
+acknowledgment for lodgings. The headman of our next stage hid himself
+in fear, as we were near to the scene of Bin Juma's unprovoked slaughter
+of five men, for tusks that were not stolen, but thrown down. Our path
+lay through dense forest, and again, on 5th, our march was in the same
+dense jungle of lofty trees and vegetation that touch our arms on each
+side. We came to some villages among beautiful tree-covered hills,
+called Basilange or Mobasilange. The villages are very pretty, standing
+on slopes. The main street generally lies east and west, to allow the
+bright sun to stream his clear hot rays from one end to the other, and
+lick up quickly the moisture from the frequent showers which is not
+drained off by the slopes. A little verandah is often made in front of
+the door, and here at dawn the family gathers round a fire, and, while
+enjoying the heat needed in the cold that always accompanies the first
+darting of the light or sun's rays across the atmosphere, inhale the
+delicious air, and talk over their little domestic affairs. The various
+shaped leaves of the forest all around their village and near their
+nestlings are bespangled with myriads of dewdrops. The cocks crow
+vigorously, and strut and ogle; the kids gambol and leap on the backs of
+their dams quietly chewing the cud; other goats make believe fighting.
+Thrifty wives often bake their new clay pots in a fire, made by lighting
+a heap of grass roots: the next morning they extract salt from the
+ashes, and so two birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of this
+morning scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable. Infancy gilds the
+fairy picture with its own lines, and it is probably never forgotten,
+for the young, taken up from slavers, and treated with all philanthropic
+missionary care and kindness, still revert to the period of infancy as
+the finest and fairest they have known. They would go back to freedom
+and enjoyment as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be heedless
+to the charms of hard work and no play which we think so much better
+for them if not for us.
+
+In some cases we found all the villages deserted; the people had fled at
+our approach, in dread of repetitions of the outrages of Arab slaves.
+The doors were all shut: a bunch of the leaves of reeds or of green
+reeds placed across them, means "no entrance here." A few stray chickens
+wander about wailing, having hid themselves while the rest were caught
+and carried off into the deep forest, and the still smoking fires tell
+the same tale of recent flight from the slave-traders.
+
+Many have found out that I am not one of their number, so in various
+cases they stand up and call out loudly, "Bolongo, Bolongo!"
+"Friendship, Friendship!" They sell their fine iron bracelets eagerly
+for a few beads; for (bracelets seem out of fashion since beads came
+in), but they are of the finest quality of iron, and were they nearer
+Europe would be as eagerly sought and bought as horse-shoe nails are for
+the best gun-barrels. I overhear the Manyuema telling each other that I
+am the "good one." I have no slaves, and I owe this character to the
+propagation of a good name by the slaves of Zanzibar, who are anything
+but good themselves. I have seen slaves belonging to the seven men now
+with us slap the cheeks of grown men who had offered food for sale; it
+was done in sheer wantonness, till I threatened to thrash them if I saw
+it again; but out of my sight they did it still, and when I complained
+to the masters they confessed that all the mischief was done by slaves;
+for the Manyuema, on being insulted, lose temper and use their spears on
+the nasty curs, and then vengeance is taken with guns. Free men behave
+better than slaves; the bondmen are not responsible. The Manyuema are
+far more beautiful than either the bond or free of Zanzibar; I overhear
+the remark often, "If we had Manyuema wives what beautiful children we
+should beget." The men are usually handsome, and many of the women are
+very pretty; hands, feet, limbs, and forms perfect in shape and the
+colour light-brown, but the orifices of the nose are widened by
+snuff-takers, who ram it up as far as they can with the finger and
+thumb: the teeth are not filed, except a small space between the two
+upper front teeth.
+
+_5th March, 1871._--We heard to-day that Mohamad's people passed us on
+the west, with much ivory. I lose thus twenty copper rings I was to take
+from them, and all the notes they were to make for me of the rivers they
+crossed.
+
+_6th March, 1871._--Passed through very large villages, with many forges
+in active work; some men followed us, as if to fight, but we got them to
+turn peaceably: we don't know who are enemies, so many have been
+maltreated and had relatives killed. The rain of yesterday made the
+paths so slippery that the feet of all were sorely fatigued, and on
+coming to Manyara's, I resolved to rest on 7th near Mount Kimazi. I gave
+a cloth and beads in lieu of a fine fat goat from the chief, a clever,
+good man.
+
+_9th March, 1871._--We marched about five hours across a grassy plain
+without trees--buga or prairie. The torrid sun, nearly vertical, sent
+his fierce rays down, and fatigued us all: we crossed two Sokoye streams
+by bridges, and slept at a village on a ridge of woodland overlooking
+Kasonga. After two hours this morning, we came to villages of this
+chief, and at one were welcomed by the Safari of Salem Mokadam, and I
+was given a house. Kasonga is a very fine young man, with European
+features, and "very clever and good." He is clever, and is pronounced
+good, because he eagerly joins the Arabs in marauding! Seeing the
+advantage of firearms, he has bought four muskets. Mohamad's people were
+led by his, and spent all their copper for some fifty frasilahs of good
+ivory. From this party men have been sent over Lualaba, and about fifty
+frasilahs obtained: all praise Kasonga. We were now only six miles from
+Lualaba, and yet south of Mamohela; this great river, in fact, makes a
+second great sweep to the west of some 130 miles, and there are at least
+30' of southing; but now it comes rolling majestically to the north, and
+again makes even easting. It is a mighty stream, with many islands in
+it, and is never wadeable at any point or at any time of the year.
+
+_10th March, 1871._--Mohamad's people are said to have gone to Luapanya,
+a powerful chief, who told them they were to buy all their ivory from
+him: he had not enough, and they wanted to go on to a people who have
+ivory door-posts; but he said, "You shall go neither forward nor
+backwards, but remain here," and he then called an immense body of
+archers, and said, "You must fight these." The consequence was they
+killed Luapanya and many of his people, called Bahika, then crossed a
+very large river, the Morombya or Morombwe, and again the Pembo River,
+but don't seem to have gone very far north. I wished to go from this in
+canoes, but Kasonga has none, so I must tramp for five or six days to
+Moene Lualaba to buy one, if I have credit with Abed.
+
+_11th March, 1871._--I had a long, fierce oration from Amur, in which I
+was told again and again that I should be killed and eaten--the people
+wanted a "white one" to eat! I needed 200 guns; and "must not go to
+die." I told him that I was thankful for advice, if given by one who had
+knowledge, but his vehement threats were dreams of one who had never
+gone anywhere, but sent his slaves to kill people. He was only
+frightening my people, and doing me an injury. I told him that Baker had
+only twelve people, and came near to this: to this he replied "Were the
+people cannibals?" &c. &c.
+
+I left this noisy demagogue, after saying I thanked him for his
+warnings, but saw he knew not what he was saying. The traders from Ujiji
+are simply marauders, and their people worse than themselves, they
+thirst for blood more than for ivory, each longs to be able to tell a
+tale of blood, and the Manyuema are an easy prey. Hassani assaulted the
+people at Moene Lualaba's, and now they keep to the other bank, and I am
+forced to bargain with Kasonga for a canoe, and he sends to a friend for
+one to be seen on the 13th. This Hassani declared to me that he would
+not begin hostilities, but he began nothing else; the prospect of
+getting slaves overpowers all else, and blood flows in horrid streams.
+The Lord look on it! Hassani will have some tale to tell Mohamad
+Bogharib.
+
+[At the outset of his explorations Livingstone fancied that there were
+degrees in the sufferings of slaves, and that the horrors perpetrated by
+the Portuguese of Tette were unknown in the system of slave hunting
+which the Arabs pursue: we now see that a further acquaintance with the
+slave-trade of the Interior has restored the balance of infamy, and that
+the same tale of murder and destruction is common wherever the traffic
+extends, no matter by whom it is carried on.]
+
+_15th March, 1871._--Falsehood seems ingrained in their constitutions:
+no wonder that in all this region they have never tried to propagate
+Islamism; the natives soon learn to hate them, and slaving, as carried
+on by the Kilwans and Ujijians, is so bloody, as to prove an effectual
+barrier against proselytism.
+
+My men are not come back: I fear they are engaged in some broil. In
+confirmation of what I write, some of the party here assaulted a village
+of Kasonga's, killed three men and captured women and children; they
+pretended that they did not know them to be his people, but they did not
+return the captives.
+
+_20th March, 1871._--I am heartsore, and sick of human blood.
+
+_21st March, 1871._--Kasongo's brother's child died, and he asked me to
+remain to-day while he buried the dead, and he would give me a guide
+to-morrow; being rainy I stop willingly. Dugumbe is said to purpose
+going down the river to Kanagumbe River to build on the land Kanagumbe,
+which is a loop formed by the river, and is large. He is believed to
+possess great power of divination, even of killing unfaithful women.
+
+_22nd March, 1871._--I am detained another day by the sickness of one of
+the party. Very cold rain yesterday from the north-west. I hope to go
+to-morrow towards the Lakoni, or great market of this region.
+
+_23rd March, 1871._--Left Kasongo, who gave me a goat and a guide. The
+country is gently undulating, showing green slopes fringed with wood,
+with grass from four to six feet. We reached Katenga's, about five miles
+off. There are many villages, and people passed us carrying loads of
+provisions, and cassava, from the chitoka or market.
+
+_24th March, 1871._--Great rain in the night and morning, and sickness
+of the men prevented our march.
+
+_25th March, 1871._--Went to Mazimwe, 7-1/2 miles off.
+
+_26th March, 1871._--Went four miles and crossed the Kabwimaji; then a
+mile beyond Kahembai, which flows into the Kunda, and it into the
+Lualaba; the country is open, and low hills appear in the north. We met
+a party from the traders at Kasenga, chiefly Matereka's people under
+Salem and Syde bin Sultan; they had eighty-two captives, and say they
+fought ten days to secure them and two of the Malongwana, and two of the
+Banyamwezi. They had about twenty tusks, and carried one of their men
+who broke his leg in fighting; we shall be safe only when past the
+bloodshed and murder.
+
+_27th March, 1871._--We went along a ridge of land overhanging a fine
+valley of denudation, with well-cultivated hills in the distance (N.),
+where Hassani's feat of bloodshed was performed. There are many villages
+on the ridge, some rather tumbledown ones, which always indicate some
+misrule. Our march was about seven miles. A headman who went with us
+plagued another chief to give me a goat; I refused to take what was not
+given willingly, but the slaves secured it; and I threatened our
+companion, Kama, with dismissal from our party if he became a tool in
+slave hands. The arum is common.
+
+_28th March, 1871._--The Banian slaves are again trying compulsion--I
+don't know what for. They refused to take their bead rations, and made
+Chakanga spokesman: I could not listen to it, as he has been concocting
+a mutiny against me. It is excessively trying, and so many difficulties
+have been put in my way I doubt whether the Divine favour and will is on
+my side.
+
+We came six miles to-day, crossing many rivulets running to the Kunda,
+which also we crossed in a canoe; it is almost thirty yards wide and
+deep: afterwards, near the village where we slept, we crossed the Luja
+about twenty yards wide, going into the Kunda and Lualaba. I am greatly
+distressed because there is no law here; they probably mean to create a
+disturbance at Abed's place, to which we are near: the Lord look on it.
+
+_29th March, 1871._--Crossed the Liya, and next day the Moangoi, by two
+well-made wattle bridges at an island in its bed: it is twenty yards,
+and has a very strong current, which makes all the market people fear
+it. We then crossed the Molembe in a canoe, which is fifteen yards, but
+swelled by rains and many rills. Came 7-1/2 miles to sleep at one of the
+outlying villages of Nyangwe: about sixty market people came past us
+from the Chitoka or marketplace, on the banks of Lualaba; they go
+thither at night, and come away about mid-day, having disposed of most of
+their goods by barter. The country is open, and dotted over with trees,
+chiefly a species of Bauhinia, that resists the annual grass burnings;
+there are trees along the watercourses, and many villages, each with a
+host of pigs. This region is low as compared with Tanganyika; about
+2000 feet above the sea.
+
+The headman's house, in which I was lodged, contained the housewife's
+little conveniences, in the shape of forty pots, dishes, baskets,
+knives, mats, all of which she removed to another house: I gave her four
+strings of beads, and go on to-morrow. Crossed the Kunda River and seven
+miles more brought us to Nyangwe, where we found Abed and Hassani had
+erected their dwellings, and sent their people over Lualaba, and as far
+west as the Loeki or Lomame. Abed said that my words against
+bloodshedding had stuck into him, and he had given orders to his people
+to give presents to the chiefs, but never fight unless actually
+attacked.
+
+_31st March, 1871._--I went down to take a good look at the Lualaba
+here. It is narrower than it is higher up, but still a mighty river, at
+least 3000 yards broad, and always deep: it can never be waded at any
+point, or at any time of the year; the people unhesitatingly declare
+that if any one tried to ford it, he would assuredly be lost. It has
+many large islands, and at these it is about 2000 yards or one mile. The
+banks are steep and deep: there is clay, and a yellow-clay schist in
+their structure; the other rivers, as the Luya and Kunda, have gravelly
+banks. The current is about two miles an hour away to the north.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[11] The epidemic here mentioned reached Zanzibar Island from the
+interior of Africa by way of the Masai caravan route and Pangani. Dr.
+Kirk says it again entered Africa from Zanzibar, and followed the
+course of the caravans to Ujiji and Manyuema.--ED.
+
+[12] The men give indisputable proof that his body was eaten by the
+Manyuema who lay in ambush.--ED.
+
+[13] Kanike is a blue calico.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises
+    ink. Builds a new house at Nyangwe on the bank of the Lualaba.
+    Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of
+    slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome
+    frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market.
+    Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in
+    Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomame.
+    Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress.
+    Alarm of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by
+    Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river.
+    Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river.
+    Livingstone becomes desponding.
+
+
+_1st April, 1871._--The banks are well peopled, but one must see the
+gathering at the market, of about 3000, chiefly women, to judge of their
+numbers. They hold market one day, and then omit attendance here for
+three days, going to other markets at other points in the intervals. It
+is a great institution in Manyuema: numbers seem to inspire confidence,
+and they enforce justice for each other. As a rule, all prefer to buy
+and sell in the market, to doing business anywhere else; if one says,
+"Come, sell me that fowl or cloth," the reply is, "Come to the
+'Chitoka,' or marketplace."
+
+_2nd April, 1871._--To-day the market contained over a thousand people,
+carrying earthen pots and cassava, grass cloth, fishes, and fowls; they
+were alarmed at my coming among them and were ready to flee, many stood
+afar off in suspicion; some came from the other side of the river with
+their goods. To-morrow market is held up river.
+
+_3rd April, 1871._--I tried to secure a longitude by fixing a weight on
+the key of the watch, and so helping it on: I will try this in a quiet
+place to-morrow. The people all fear us, and they have good reason for
+it in the villainous conduct of many of the blackguard half-castes which
+alarms them: I cannot get a canoe, so I wait to see what will turn up.
+The river is said to overflow all its banks annually, as the Nile does
+further down. I sounded across yesterday. Near the bank it is 9 feet,
+the rest 15 feet, and one cast in the middle was 20 feet: between the
+islands 12 feet, and 9 feet again in shore: it is a mighty river truly.
+I took distances and altitudes alternately with a bullet for a weight on
+the key of the chronometer, taking successive altitudes of the sun and
+distances of the moon. Possibly the first and last altitudes may give
+the rate of going, and the frequent distances between may give
+approximate longitude.
+
+_4th April, 1871._--Moon, the fourth of the Arabs, will appear in three
+or four days. This will be a guide in ascertaining the day of observing
+the lunars, with the weight.
+
+The Arabs ask many questions about the Bible, and want to know how many
+prophets have appeared, and probably say that they believe in them all;
+while we believe all but reject Mohamad. It is easy to drive them into a
+corner by questioning, as they don't know whither the inquiries lead,
+and they are not offended when their knowledge is, as it were, admitted.
+When asked how many false prophets are known, they appeal to my
+knowledge, and evidently never heard of Balaam, the son of Beor, or of
+the 250 false prophets of Jezebel and Ahab, or of the many lying
+prophets referred to in the Bible.
+
+_6th April, 1871._--Ill from drinking two cups of very sweet malofu, or
+beer, made from bananas: I shall touch it no more.
+
+_7th April, 1871._--Made this ink with the seeds of a plant, called by
+the Arabs Zugifare; it is known in India, and is used here by the
+Manyuema to dye virambos and ornament faces and heads.[14] I sent my
+people over to the other side to cut wood to build a house for me; the
+borrowed one has mud walls and floors, which are damp, foul, smelling,
+and unwholesome. I shall have grass walls, and grass and reeds on the
+floor of my own house; the free ventilation will keep it sweet. This is
+the season called Masika, the finishing rains, which we have in large
+quantities almost every night, and I could scarcely travel even if I had
+a canoe; still it is trying to be kept back by suspicion, and by the
+wickedness of the wicked.
+
+Some of the Arabs try to be kind, and send cooked food every day: Abed
+is the chief donor. I taught him to make a mosquito-curtain of thin
+printed calico, for he had endured the persecution of these insects
+helplessly, except by sleeping on a high stage, when they were unusually
+bad. The Manyuema often bring evil on themselves by being untrustworthy.
+For instance, I paid one to bring a large canoe to cross the Lualaba, he
+brought a small one, capable of carrying three only, and after wasting
+some hours we had to put off crossing till next day.
+
+_8th April, 1871._--Every headman of four or five huts is a mologhwe, or
+chief, and glories in being called so. There is no political cohesion.
+The Ujijian slavery is an accursed system; but it must be admitted that
+the Manyuema, too, have faults, the result of ignorance of other people:
+their isolation has made them as unconscious of danger in dealing with
+the cruel stranger, as little dogs in the presence of lions. Their
+refusal to sell or lend canoes for fear of blame by each other will be
+ended by the party of Dugumbe, which has ten headmen, taking them by
+force; they are unreasonable and bloody-minded towards each other: every
+Manyuema would like every other headman slain; they are subjected to
+bitter lessons and sore experience. Abed went over to Mologhwe Kahembe
+and mixed blood with him; he was told that two large canoes were
+hollowed out, and nearly ready to be brought for sale; if this can be
+managed peaceably it is a great point gained, and I may get one at our
+Arabs' price, which may be three or four times the native price. There
+is no love lost among the three Arabs here.
+
+_9th April, 1871._--Cut wood for my house. The Loeki is said by slaves
+who have come thence to be much larger than the Lualaba, but on the
+return of Abed's people from the west we shall obtain better
+information.
+
+_10th April, 1871._--Chitoka, or market, to-day. I counted upwards of
+700 passing my door. With market women it seems to be a pleasure of life
+to haggle and joke, and laugh and cheat: many come eagerly, and retire
+with careworn faces; many are beautiful, and many old; all carry very
+heavy loads of dried cassava and earthen pots, which they dispose of
+very cheaply for palm-oil, fish, salt, pepper, and relishes for their
+food. The men appear in gaudy lambas, and carry little save their iron
+wares, fowls, grass cloth, and pigs.
+
+Bought the fish with the long snouts: very good eating.
+
+_12th April, 1871._--New moon last night; fourth Arab month: I am at a
+loss for the day of the month. My new house is finished; a great
+comfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin: bugs (Tapazi, or
+ticks), that follow wherever Arabs go, made me miserable, but the Arabs
+are insensible to them; Abed alone had a mosquito-curtain, and he never
+could praise it enough. One of his remarks is, "If slaves think you
+fear them, they will climb over you." I clothed mine for nothing, and
+ever after they have tried to ride roughshod over me, and mutiny on
+every occasion!
+
+_14th April, 1871._--Kahembe came over, and promises to bring a canoe;
+but he is not to be trusted; he presented Abed with two slaves, and is
+full of fair promises about the canoe, which he sees I am anxious to
+get. They all think that my buying a canoe means carrying war to the
+left bank; and now my Banian slaves encourage the idea: "He does not
+wish slaves nor ivory," say they, "but a canoe, in order to kill
+Manyuema." Need it be wondered at that people, who had never heard of
+strangers or white men before I popped down among them, believed the
+slander? The slaves were aided in propagating the false accusation by
+the half-caste Ujijian slaves at the camp. Hassani fed them every day;
+and, seeing that he was a bigoted Moslem, they equalled him in prayers
+in his sitting-place seven or eight times a day! They were adepts at
+lying, and the first Manyuema words they learned were used to propagate
+falsehood.
+
+I have been writing part of a despatch, in case of meeting people from
+the French settlement on the Gaboon at Loeki, but the canoe affair is
+slow and tedious: the people think only of war: they are a bloody-minded
+race.
+
+_15th April, 1871._--The Manyuema tribe, called Bagenya, occupy the left
+bank, opposite Nyangwe. A spring of brine rises in the bed of a river,
+named Lofubu, and this the Bayenga inspissate by boiling, and sell the
+salt at market. The Lomame is about ten days west of Lualaba, and very
+large; the confluence of Lomame, or Loeki, is about six days down below
+Nyangwe by canoe; the river Nyanze is still less distant.
+
+_16th April, 1871._--On the Nyanze stands the principal town and market
+of the chief, Zurampela. Rashid visited him, and got two slaves on
+promising to bring a war-party from Abed against Chipange, who by
+similar means obtained the help of Salem Mokadam to secure eighty-two
+captives: Rashid will leave this as soon as possible, sell the slaves,
+and leave Zurampela to find out the fraud! This deceit, which is an
+average specimen of the beginning of half-caste dealings, vitiates his
+evidence of a specimen of cannibalism which he witnessed; but it was
+after a fight that the victims were cut up, and this agrees with the
+fact that the Manyuema eat only those who are killed in war. Some have
+averred that captives, too, are eaten, and a slave is bought with a goat
+to be eaten; but this I very strongly doubt.
+
+_17th April, 1871._--Rainy.
+
+_18th April, 1871._--I found that the Lepidosiren is brought to market
+in pots with water in them, also white ants roasted, and the large
+snail, achetina, and a common snail: the Lepidosiren is called
+"_sembe_."
+
+Abed went a long way to examine a canoe, but it was still further, and
+he turned back.
+
+_19th April, 1871._--Dreary waiting, but Abed proposes to join and trade
+along with me: this will render our party stronger, and he will not
+shoot people in my company; we shall hear Katomba's people's story too.
+
+_20th April, 1871._--Katomba a chief was to visit us yesterday, but
+failed, probably through fear.
+
+The chief Mokandira says that Loeki is small where it joins Lualaba, but
+another, which they call Lomame, is very much larger, and joins Lualaba
+too: rapids are reported on it.
+
+_21st April, 1871._--A common salutation reminds me of the Bechuana's "U
+le hatsi" (thou art on earth); "Ua tala" (thou lookest); "Ua boka," or
+byoka (thou awakest); "U ri ho" (thou art here); "U li koni" (thou art
+here)--about pure "Sichuana," and "Nya," No, is identical. The men here
+deny that cannibalism is common: they eat only those killed in war, and,
+it seems, in revenge, for, said Mokandira, "the meat is not nice; it
+makes one dream of the dead man." Some west of Lualaba eat even those
+bought for the purpose of a feast; but I am not quite positive on this
+point: all agree in saying that human flesh is saltish, and needs but
+little condiment. And yet they are a fine-looking race; I would back a
+company of Manyuema men to be far superior in shape of head and
+generally in physical form too against the whole Anthropological
+Society. Many of the women are very light-coloured and very pretty; they
+dress in a kilt of many folds of gaudy lambas.
+
+_22nd April, 1871._--In Manyuema, here Kusi, Kunzi, is north; Mhuru,
+south; Nkanda, west, or other side Lualaba; Mazimba, east. The people
+are sometimes confused in name by the directions; thus Bankanda is only
+"the other side folk." The Bagenya Chimburu came to visit me, but I did
+not see him, nor did I know Moene Nyangwe till too late to do him
+honour; in fact, every effort was made to keep me in the dark while the
+slavers of Ujiji made all smooth for themselves to get canoes. All
+chiefs claim the privilege of shaking hands, that is, they touch the
+hand held out with their palm, then clap two hands together, then touch
+again, and clap again, and the ceremony concludes: this frequency of
+shaking hands misled me when the great man came.
+
+_24th April, 1871._--Old feuds lead the Manyuema to entrap the traders
+to fight: they invite them to go to trade, and tell them that at such a
+village plenty of ivory lies; then when the trader goes with his people,
+word is sent that he is coming to fight, and he is met by enemies, who
+compel him to defend himself by their onslaught. We were nearly
+entrapped in this way by a chief pretending to guide us through the
+country near Basilange; he would have landed us in a fight, but we
+detected his drift, changed our course so as to mislead any messengers
+he might have sent, and dismissed him with some sharp words.
+
+Lake Kamolondo is about twenty-five miles broad. The Lufira at Katanga
+is a full bow-shot wide; it goes into Kamolondo. Chakomo is east of
+Lufira Junction. Kikonze Kalanza is on the west of it, and Mkana, or the
+underground dwellings, still further west: some are only two days from
+Katanga. The Chorwe people are friendly. Kamolondo is about ten days
+distant from Katanga.
+
+_25th April, 1871._--News came that four men sent by Abed to buy ivory
+had been entrapped, and two killed. The rest sent for aid to punish the
+murderers, and Abed wished me to send my people to bring the remaining
+two men back. I declined; because, no matter what charges I gave, my
+Banian slaves would be sure to shed human blood. We can go nowhere but
+the people of the country ask us to kill their fellow-men, nor can they
+be induced to go to villages three miles off, because there, in all
+probability, live the murderers of fathers, uncles, or grandfathers--a
+dreadful state truly. The traders are as bloodthirsty every whit as the
+Manyuema, where no danger exists, but in most cases where the people can
+fight they are as civil as possible. At Moere Mpanda's, the son of
+Casembe, Mohamad Bogharib left a debt of twenty-eight slaves and eight
+bars of copper, each seventy pounds, and did not dare to fire a shot
+because they saw they had met their match: here his headmen are said to
+have bound the headmen of villages till a ransom was paid in tusks! Had
+they only gone three days further to the Babisa, to whom Moene-mokaia's
+men went, they would have got fine ivory at two rings a tusk, while they
+had paid from ten to eighteen. Here it is as sad a tale to tell as was
+that of the Manganja scattered and peeled by the Waiyau agents of the
+Portuguese of Tette. The good Lord look on it.
+
+_26th April, 1871._--Chitovu called nine slaves bought by Abed's people
+from the Kuss country, west of the Lualaba, and asked them about their
+tribes and country for me. One, with his upper front teeth extracted,
+was of the tribe Maloba, on the other side of the Loeki, another comes
+from the River Lombadzo, or Lombazo, which is west of Loeki (this may be
+another name for the Lomame), the country is called Nanga, and the tribe
+Nongo, chief Mpunzo. The Malobo tribe is under the chiefs Yunga and
+Lomadyo. Another toothless boy said that he came from the Lomame: the
+upper teeth extracted seem to say that the tribe have cattle; the
+knocking out the teeth is in imitation of the animals they almost
+worship. No traders had ever visited them; this promises ivory to the
+present visitors: all that is now done with the ivory there is to make
+rude blowing horns and bracelets.
+
+_27th April, 1871._--Waiting wearily and anxiously; we cannot move
+people who are far off and make them come near with news. Even the
+owners of canoes say, "Yes, yes; we shall bring them," but do not stir;
+they doubt us, and my slaves increase the distrust by their lies to the
+Manyuema.
+
+_28th April, 1871._--Abed sent over Manyuema to buy slaves for him and
+got a pretty woman for 300 cowries and a hundred strings of beads; she
+can be sold again to an Arab for much more in ivory. Abed himself gave
+$130 for a woman-cook, and she fled to me when put in chains for some
+crime: I interceded, and she was loosed: I advised her not to offend
+again, because I could not beg for her twice.
+
+Hassani with ten slaves dug at the malachite mines of Katanga for three
+months, and gained a hundred frasilahs of copper, or 3500 lbs. We hear
+of a half-caste reaching the other side of Lomame, probably from Congo
+or Ambriz, but the messengers had not seen him.
+
+_1st May, 1871._--Katomba's people arrived from the Babisa, where they
+sold all their copper at two rings for a tusk, and then found that
+abundance of ivory still remained: door-posts and house-pillars had been
+made of ivory which now was rotten. The people of Babisa kill elephants
+now and bring tusks by the dozen, till the traders get so many that in
+this case they carried them by three relays. They dress their hair like
+the Bashukulompo, plaited into upright basket helmets: no quarrel
+occurred, and great kindness was shown to the strangers. A river having
+very black water, the Nyengere, flows into Lualaba from the west, and it
+becomes itself very large: another river or water, Shamikwa, falls into
+it from the south-west, and it becomes still larger: this is probably
+the Lomame. A short-horned antelope is common.
+
+_3rd May, 1871._--Abed informs me that a canoe will come in five days.
+Word was sent after me by the traders south of us not to aid me, as I
+was sure to die where I was going: the wish is father to the thought!
+Abed was naturally very anxious to get first into the Babisa ivory
+market, yet he tried to secure a canoe for me before he went, but he was
+too eager, and a Manyuema man took advantage of his desire, and came
+over the river and said that he had one hollowed out, and he wanted
+goats and beads to hire people to drag it down to the water. Abed on my
+account advanced five goats, a thousand cowries, and many beads, and
+said that he would tell me what he wished in return: this was debt, but
+I was so anxious to get away I was content to take the canoe on any
+terms. However, it turned out that the matter on the part of the headman
+whom Abed trusted was all deception: he had no canoe at all, but knew of
+one belonging to another man, and wished to get Abed and me to send men
+to see it--in fact, to go with their guns, and he would manage to
+embroil them with the real owner, so that some old feud should be
+settled to his satisfaction. On finding that I declined to be led into
+his trap, he took a female slave to the owner, and on his refusal to
+sell the canoe for her, it came out that he had adopted a system of
+fraud to Abed. He had victimized Abed, who was naturally inclined to
+believe his false statements, and get off to the ivory market. His
+people came from the Kuss country in the west with sixteen tusks, and a
+great many slaves bought and not murdered for. The river is rising fast,
+and bringing down large quantities of aquatic grass, duckweed, &c. The
+water is a little darker in colour than at Cairo. People remove and
+build their huts on the higher forest lands adjacent. Many white birds
+(the paddy bird) appear, and one Ibis religiosa; they pass north.
+
+The Bakuss live near Lomame; they were very civil and kind to the
+strangers, but refused passage into the country. At my suggestion, the
+effect of a musket-shot was shown on a goat: they thought it
+supernatural, looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to buy
+the charm that could draw lightning down. When it was afterwards
+attempted to force a path, they darted aside on seeing the Banyamwezi's
+followers putting the arrows into the bowstrings, but stood in mute
+amazement looking at the guns, which mowed them down in large numbers.
+They thought that muskets were the insignia of chieftainship. Their
+chiefs all go with a long straight staff of rattan, having a quantity of
+black medicine smeared on each end, and no weapons in their hands: they
+imagined that the guns were carried as insignia of the same kind; some,
+jeering in the south, called them big tobacco-pipes; they have no fear
+on seeing a gun levelled at them.
+
+They use large and very long spears very expertly in the long grass and
+forest of their country, and are terrible fellows among themselves, and
+when they become acquainted with firearms will be terrible to the
+strangers who now murder them. The Manyuema say truly, "If it were not
+for your guns, not one of you would ever return to your country." The
+Bakuss cultivate more than the southern Manyuema, especially Pennisetum
+and dura, or _Holeus sorghum;_ common coffee is abundant, and they use
+it, highly scented with vanilla, which must be fertilized by insects;
+they hand round cups of it after meals. Pineapples too are abundant.
+They bathe regularly twice a day: their houses are of two storeys. The
+women have rather compressed heads, but very pleasant countenances; and
+ancient Egyptian, round, wide-awake eyes. Their numbers are prodigious;
+the country literally swarms with people, and a chief's town extends
+upwards of a mile. But little of the primeval forest remains. Many large
+pools of standing water have to be crossed, but markets are held every
+eight or ten miles from each other, and to these the people come from
+far, for the market is as great an institution as shopping is with the
+civilized. Illicit intercourse is punished by the whole of the
+offender's family being enslaved.
+
+The Bakuss smelt copper from the ore and sell it very cheaply to the
+traders for beads. The project of going in canoes now appeared to the
+half-castes so plausible, that they all tried to get the Bagenya on the
+west bank to lend them, and all went over to mix blood and make friends
+with the owners, then all slandered me as not to be trusted, as they
+their blood-relations were; and my slaves mutinied and would go no
+further. They mutinied three times here, and Hassani harboured them till
+I told him that, if an English officer harboured an Arab slave he would
+be compelled by the Consul to refund the price, and I certainly would
+not let him escape; this frightened him; but I was at the mercy of
+slaves who had no honour, and no interest in going into danger.
+
+_16th May, 1871._--Abed gave me a frasilah of Matunda beads, and I
+returned fourteen fathoms of fine American sheeting, but it was an
+obligation to get beads from one whose wealth depended on exchanging
+beads for ivory.
+
+_16th May, 1871._--At least 3000 people at market to-day, and my going
+among them has taken away the fear engendered by the slanders of slaves
+and traders, for all are pleased to tell me the names of the fishes and
+other things. Lepidosirens are caught by the neck and lifted out of the
+pot to show their fatness. Camwood ground and made into flat cakes for
+sale and earthen balls, such as are eaten in the disease safura or
+earth-eating, are offered and there is quite a roar of voices in the
+multitude, haggling. It was pleasant to be among them compared to being
+with the slaves, who were all eager to go back to Zanzibar: some told me
+that they were slaves, and required a free man to thrash them, and
+proposed to go back to Ujiji for one. I saw no hope of getting on with
+them, and anxiously longed for the arrival of Dugumbe; and at last Abed
+overheard them plotting my destruction. "If forced to go on, they would
+watch till the first difficulty arose with the Manyuema, then fire off
+their guns, run away, and as I could not run as fast as they, leave me
+to perish." Abed overheard them speaking loudly, and advised me strongly
+not to trust myself to them any more, as they would be sure to cause my
+death. He was all along a sincere friend, and I could not but take his
+words as well-meant and true.
+
+_18th May, 1871._--Abed gave me 200 cowries and some green beads. I was
+at the point of disarming my slaves and driving them away, when they
+relented, and professed to be willing to go anywhere; so, being eager to
+finish my geographical work, I said I would run the risk of their
+desertion, and gave beads to buy provisions for a start north. I cannot
+state how much I was worried by these wretched slaves, who did much to
+annoy me, with the sympathy of all the slaving crew. When baffled by
+untoward circumstances the bowels plague me too, and discharges of blood
+relieve the headache, and are as safety-valves to the system. I was
+nearly persuaded to allow Mr. Syme to operate on me when last in
+England, but an old friend told me that his own father had been operated
+on by the famous John Hunter, and died in consequence at the early age
+of forty. His advice saved me, for this complaint has been my
+safety-valve.
+
+The Zingifure, or red pigment, is said to be a cure for itch common
+among both natives and Arab slaves and Arab children.
+
+_20th May, 1871._--Abed called Kalonga the headman, who beguiled him as
+I soon found, and delivered the canoe he had bought formally to me, and
+went off down the Lualaba on foot to buy the Babisa ivory. I was to
+follow in the canoe and wait for him in the River Luera, but soon I
+ascertained that the canoe was still in the forest, and did not belong
+to Kalonga. On demanding back the price he said, "Let Abed come and I
+will give it to him;" then when I sent to force him to give up the
+goods, all his village fled into the forest: I now tried to buy one
+myself from the Bagenya, but there was no chance; so long as the
+half-caste traders needed any they got all--nine large canoes, and I
+could not secure one.
+
+_24th May, 1871._--The market is a busy scene--everyone is in dead
+earnest--little time is lost in friendly greetings; vendors of fish run
+about with potsherds full of snails or small fishes or young _Clarias
+capensis_ smoke-dried and spitted on twigs, or other relishes to
+exchange for cassava roots dried after being steeped about three days in
+water--potatoes, vegetables, or grain, bananas, flour, palm-oil, fowls,
+salt, pepper; each is intensely eager to barter food for relishes, and
+makes strong assertions as to the goodness or badness of everything: the
+sweat stands in beads on their faces--cocks crow briskly, even when
+slung over the shoulder with their heads hanging down, and pigs squeal.
+Iron knobs, drawn out at each end to show the goodness of the metal, are
+exchanged for cloth of the Muabe palm. They have a large funnel of
+basket-work below the vessel holding the wares, and slip the goods down
+if they are not to be seen. They deal fairly, and when differences arise
+they are easily settled by the men interfering or pointing to me: they
+appeal to each other, and have a strong sense of natural justice. With
+so much food changing hands amongst the three thousand attendants much
+benefit is derived; some come from twenty to twenty-five miles. The men
+flaunt about in gaudy-coloured lambas of many folded kilts--the women
+work hardest--the potters slap and ring their earthenware all round, to
+show that there is not a single flaw in them. I bought two finely shaped
+earthen bottles of porous earthenware, to hold a gallon each, for one
+string of beads, the women carry huge loads of them in their funnels
+above the baskets, strapped to the shoulders and forehead, and their
+hands are full besides; the roundness of the vessels is wonderful,
+seeing no machine is used: no slaves could be induced to carry half as
+much as they do willingly. It is a scene of the finest natural acting
+imaginable. The eagerness with which all sorts of assertions are
+made--the eager earnestness with which apparently all creation, above,
+around, and beneath, is called on to attest the truth of what they
+allege--and then the intense surprise and withering scorn cast on those
+who despise their goods: but they show no concern when the buyers turn
+up their noses at them. Little girls run about selling cups of water for
+a few small fishes to the half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it was
+an amusing scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off their
+glib tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to need
+interpretation.
+
+_27th May, 1871._--Hassani told me that since he had come, no Manyuema
+had ever presented him with a single mouthful of food, not even a potato
+or banana, and he had made many presents. Going from him into the market
+I noticed that one man presented a few small fishes, another a sweet
+potato and a piece of cassava, and a third two small fishes, but the
+Manyuema are not a liberal people. Old men and women who remained in the
+half-deserted villages we passed through in coming north, often ran
+forth to present me with bananas, but it seemed through fear; when I sat
+down and ate the bananas they brought beer of bananas, and I paid for
+all. A stranger in the market had ten human under jaw-bones hung by a
+string over his shoulder: on inquiry he professed to have killed and
+eaten the owners, and showed with his knife how he cut up his victim.
+When I expressed disgust he and others laughed. I see new faces every
+market-day. Two nice girls were trying to sell their venture, which was
+roasted white ants, called "Gumbe."
+
+_30th May, 1871._--The river fell four inches during the last four days;
+the colour is very dark brown, and large quantities of aquatic plants
+and trees float down. Mologhwe, or chief Ndambo, came and mixed blood
+with the intensely bigoted Moslem, Hassani: this is to secure the nine
+canoes. He next went over to have more palaver about them, and they do
+not hesitate to play me false by detraction. The Manyuema, too, are
+untruthful, but very honest; we never lose an article by them: fowls and
+goats are untouched, and if a fowl is lost, we know that it has been
+stolen by an Arab slave. When with Mohamad Bogharib, we had all to keep
+our fowls at the Manyuema villages to prevent them being stolen by our
+own slaves, and it is so here. Hassani denies complicity with them, but
+it is quite apparent that he and others encourage them in mutiny.
+
+_5th June, 1871._--The river rose again six inches and fell three. Rain
+nearly ceased, and large masses of fleecy clouds float down here from
+the north-west, with accompanying cold.
+
+_7th June, 1871._--I fear that I must march on foot, but the mud is
+forbidding.
+
+_11th June, 1871._--New moon last night, and I believe Dugumbe will
+leave Kasonga's to-day. River down three inches.
+
+_14th June, 1871._--Hassani got nine canoes, and put sixty-three persons
+in three; I cannot get one. Dugumbe reported near, but detained by his
+divination, at which he is an expert; hence his native name is
+"Molembalemba"--"writer, writing."
+
+_16th June, 1871._--The high winds and drying of soap and sugar tell
+that the rains are now over in this part.
+
+_18th June, 1871._--Dugumbe arrived, but passed to Moene Nyangwe's, and
+found that provisions were so scarce, and dear there, as compared with
+our market, that he was fain to come back to us. He has a large party
+and 500 guns. He is determined to go into new fields of trade, and has
+all his family with him, and intends to remain six or seven years,
+sending regularly to Ujiji for supplies of goods.
+
+_20th June, 1871._--Two of Dugumbe's party brought presents of four
+large fundos of beads each. All know that my goods are unrighteously
+detained by Shereef and they show me kindness, which I return by some
+fine calico which I have. Among the first words Dugumbe said to me were,
+"Why your own slaves are your greatest enemies: I will buy you a canoe,
+but the Banian slaves' slanders have put all the Manyuema against you."
+I knew that this was true, and that they were conscious of the sympathy
+of the Ujijian traders, who hate to have me here.
+
+_24th June, 1871._--Hassani's canoe party in the river were foiled by
+narrows, after they had gone down four days. Rocks jut out on both
+sides, not opposite, but alternate to each other; and the vast mass of
+water of the great river jammed in, rushes round one promontory on to
+another, and a frightful whirlpool is formed in which the first canoe
+went and was overturned, and five lives lost. Had I been there, mine
+would have been the first canoe, for the traders would have made it a
+point of honour to give me the precedence (although actually to make a
+feeler of me), while they looked on in safety. The men in charge of
+Hassani's canoes were so frightened by this accident that they at once
+resolved to return, though they had arrived in the country of the ivory:
+they never looked to see whether the canoes could be dragged past the
+narrows, as anyone else would have done. No better luck could be
+expected after all their fraud and duplicity in getting the canoes; no
+harm lay in obtaining them, but why try to prevent me getting one?
+
+_27th June, 1871._--In answer to my prayers for preservation, I was
+prevented going down to the narrows, formed by a dyke of mountains
+cutting across country, and jutting a little ajar, which makes the water
+in an enormous mass wheel round behind it helplessly, and if the canoes
+reach the rock against which the water dashes, they are almost certainly
+overturned. As this same dyke probably cuts across country to Lomame, my
+plan of going to the confluence and then up won't do, for I should have
+to go up rapids there. Again, I was prevented from going down Luamo, and
+on the north of its confluence another cataract mars navigation in the
+Lualaba, and my safety is thereby secured. We don't always know the
+dangers that we are guided past.
+
+_28th June, 1871._--The river has fallen two feet: dark brown water, and
+still much wreck floating down.
+
+Eight villages are in flames, set fire to by a slave of Syde bin Habib,
+called Manilla, who thus shows his blood friends of the Bagenya how well
+he can fight against the Mohombo, whose country the Bagenya want! The
+stragglers of this camp are over on the other side helping Manilla, and
+catching fugitives and goats. The Bagenya are fishermen by taste and
+profession, and sell the produce of their nets and weirs to those who
+cultivate the soil, at the different markets. Manilla's foray is for an
+alleged debt of three slaves, and ten villages are burned.
+
+_30th June, 1871._--Hassani pretended that he was not aware of Manilla's
+foray, and when I denounced it to Manilla himself, he showed that he was
+a slave, by cringing and saying nothing except something about the debt
+of three slaves.
+
+_1st July, 1871._--I made known my plan to Dugumbe, which was to go
+west with his men to Lomame, then by his aid buy a canoe and go up Lake
+Lincoln to Katanga and the fountains, examine the inhabited caves, and
+return here, if he would let his people bring me goods from Ujiji; he
+again referred to all the people being poisoned in mind against me, but
+was ready to do everything in his power for my success. My own people
+persuaded the Bagenya not to sell a canoe: Hassani knows it all, but
+swears that he did not join in the slander, and even points up to Heaven
+in attestation of innocence of all, even of Manilla's foray. Mohamadans
+are certainly famous as liars, and the falsehood of Mohamad has been
+transmitted to his followers in a measure unknown in other religions.
+
+_2nd July, 1871._--The upper stratum of clouds is from the north-west,
+the lower from the south-east; when they mix or change places the
+temperature is much lowered, and fever ensues. The air evidently comes
+from the Atlantic, over the low swampy lands of the West Coast. Morning
+fogs show that the river is warmer than the air.
+
+_4th July, 1871._--Hassani off down river in high dudgeon at the cowards
+who turned after reaching the ivory country. He leaves them here and
+goes himself, entirely on land. I gave him hints to report himself and
+me to Baker, should he meet any of his headmen.
+
+_5th July, 1871._--The river has fallen three feet in all, that is one
+foot since 27th June.
+
+I offer Dugumbe $2000, or 400_l._, for ten men to replace the Banian
+slaves, and enable me to go up the Lomame to Katanga and the underground
+dwellings, then return and go up by Tanganyika to Ujiji, and I added
+that I would give all the goods I had at Ujiji besides: he took a few
+days to consult with his associates.
+
+_6th July, 1871._--Mokandira, and other headmen, came with a present of
+a pig and a goat on my being about to depart west. I refused to receive
+them till my return, and protested against the slander of my wishing to
+kill people, which they all knew, but did not report to me: this refusal
+and protest will ring all over the country.
+
+_7th July, 1871._--I was annoyed by a woman frequently beating a slave
+near my house, but on my reproving her she came and apologized. I told
+her to speak softly to her slave, as she was now the only mother the
+girl had; the slave came from beyond Lomame, and was evidently a lady in
+her own land; she calls her son Mologwe, or chief, because his father
+was a headman.
+
+Dugumbe advised my explaining my plan of procedure to the slaves, and he
+evidently thinks that I wish to carry it towards them with a high hand.
+I did explain all the exploration I intended to do: for instance, the
+fountains of Herodotus--beyond Katanga--Katanga itself, and the
+underground dwellings, and then return. They made no remarks, for they
+are evidently pleased to have me knuckling down to them; when pressed on
+the point of proceeding, they say they will only go with Dugumbe's men
+to the Lomame, and then return. River fallen three inches since the 5th.
+
+_10th July, 1871._--Manyuema children do not creep, as European children
+do, on their knees, but begin by putting forward one foot and using one
+knee. Generally a Manyuema child uses both feet and both hands, but
+never both knees: one Arab child did the same; he never crept, but got
+up on both feet, holding on till he could walk.
+
+New moon last night of seventh Arab month.
+
+_11th July, 1871._--I bought the different species of fish brought to
+market, in order to sketch eight of them, and compare them with those of
+the Nile lower down: most are the same as in Nyassa. A very active
+species of Glanis, of dark olive-brown, was not sketched, but a spotted
+one, armed with offensive spikes in the dorsal and pectoral fins, was
+taken. Sesamum seed is abundant just now and cakes are made of
+ground-nuts, as on the West Coast. Dugumbe's horde tried to deal in the
+market in a domineering way. "I shall buy that," said one. "These are
+mine," said another; "no one must touch them but me," but the
+market-women taught them that they could not monopolize, but deal
+fairly. They are certainly clever traders, and keep each other in
+countenance, they stand by each other, and will not allow overreaching,
+and they give food astonishingly cheap: once in the market they have no
+fear.
+
+_12th and 13th July 1871._--The Banian slaves declared before Dugumbe
+that they would go to the River Lomame, but no further: he spoke long to
+them, but they will not consent to go further. When told that they would
+thereby lose all their pay, they replied, "Yes, but not our lives," and
+they walked off from him muttering, which is insulting to one of his
+rank. I then added, "I have goods at Ujiji; I don't know how many, but
+they are considerable, take them all, and give me men to finish my work;
+if not enough, I will add to them, only do not let me be forced to
+return now I am so near the end of my undertaking." He said he would
+make a plan in conjunction with his associates, and report to me.
+
+_14th July, 1871._--I am distressed and perplexed what to do so as not
+to be foiled, but all seems against me.
+
+_15th July, 1871._--The reports of guns on the other side of the Lualaba
+all the morning tell of the people of Dugumbe murdering those of Kimburu
+and others who mixed blood with Manilla. "Manilla is a slave, and how
+dares he to mix blood with chiefs who ought only to make friends with
+free men like us"--this is their complaint. Kimburu gave Manilla three
+slaves, and he sacked ten villages in token of friendship; he proposed
+to give Dugumbe nine slaves in the same operation, but Dugumbe's people
+destroy his villages, and shoot and make his people captives to punish
+Manilla; to make an impression, in fact, in the country that they alone
+are to be dealt with--"make friends with us, and not with Manilla or
+anyone else"--such is what they insist upon.
+
+About 1500 people came to market, though many villages of those that
+usually come from the other side were now in flames, and every now and
+then a number of shots were fired on the fugitives.
+
+It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the market I saw Adie and
+Manilla, and three of the men who had lately come with Dugumbe. I was
+surprised to see these three with their guns, and felt inclined to
+reprove them, as one of my men did, for bringing weapons into the
+market, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being very hot,
+I was walking away to go out of the market, when I saw one of the
+fellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before I had got
+thirty yards out, the discharge of two guns in the middle of the crowd
+told me that slaughter had begun: crowds dashed off from the place, and
+threw down their wares in confusion, and ran. At the same time that the
+three opened fire on the mass of people near the upper end of the
+marketplace volleys were discharged from a party down near the creek on
+the panic-stricken women, who dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty or
+more, were jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in the
+terror that seized all. The canoes were not to be got out, for the creek
+was too small for so many; men and women, wounded by the balls, poured
+into them, and leaped and scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long
+line of heads in the river showed that great numbers struck out for an
+island a full mile off: in going towards it they had to put the left
+shoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if they had struck
+away diagonally to the opposite bank, the current would have aided them,
+and, though nearly three miles off, some would have gained land: as it
+was, the heads above water showed the long line of those that would
+inevitably perish.
+
+Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and perishing.
+Some of the long line of heads disappeared quietly; whilst other poor
+creatures threw their arms high, as if appealing to the great Father
+above, and sank. One canoe took in as many as it could hold, and all
+paddled with hands and arms: three canoes, got out in haste, picked up
+sinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared. One man
+in a long canoe, which could have held forty or fifty, had clearly lost
+his head; he had been out in the stream before the massacre began, and
+now paddled up the river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning.
+By-and-bye all the heads disappeared; some had turned down stream
+towards the bank, and escaped. Dugumbe put people into one of the
+deserted vessels to save those in the water, and saved twenty-one, but
+one woman refused to be taken on board from thinking that she was to be
+made a slave of; she preferred the chance of life by swimming, to the
+lot of a slave: the Bagenya women are expert in the water, as they are
+accustomed to dive for oysters, and those who went down stream may have
+escaped, but the Arabs themselves estimated the loss of life at between
+330 and 400 souls. The shooting-party near the canoes were so reckless,
+they killed two of their own people; and a Banyamwezi follower, who got
+into a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water, went down, then
+came up again, and down to rise no more.
+
+My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumbe protested
+against my getting into a blood-feud, and I was thankful afterwards that
+I took his advice. Two wretched Moslems asserted "that the firing was
+done by the people of the English;" I asked one of them why he lied so,
+and he could utter no excuse: no other falsehood came to his aid as he
+stood abashed, before me, and so telling him not to tell palpable
+falsehoods, I left him gaping.
+
+After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Tagamoio, who was
+the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on the people there and fire
+their villages. As I write I hear the loud wails on the left bank over
+those who are there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in the
+depths of Lualaba. Oh, let Thy kingdom come! No one will ever know the
+exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning, it gave me the
+impression of being in Hell. All the slaves in the camp rushed at the
+fugitives on land, and plundered them: women were for hours collecting
+and carrying loads of what had been thrown down in terror.
+
+Some escaped to me, and were protected: Dugumbe saved twenty-one, and
+of his own accord liberated them, they were brought to me, and
+remained over night near my house. One woman of the saved had a
+musket-ball through the thigh, another in the arm. I sent men with our
+flag to save some, for without a flag they might have been victims,
+for Tagamoio's people were shooting right and left like fiends. I
+counted twelve villages burning this morning. I asked the question of
+Dugumbe and others, "Now for what is all this murder?" All blamed
+Manilla as its cause, and in one sense he was the cause; but it is
+hardly credible that they repeat it is in order to be avenged on
+Manilla for making friends with headmen, he being a slave. I cannot
+believe it fully. The wish to make an impression in the country as to
+the importance and greatness of the new comers was the most potent
+motive; but it was terrible that the murdering of so many should be
+contemplated at all. It made me sick at heart. Who could accompany the
+people of Dugumbe and Tagamoio to Lomame and be free from
+blood-guiltiness?
+
+I proposed to Dugumbe to catch the murderers, and hang them up in the
+marketplace, as our protest against the bloody deeds before the
+Manyuema. If, as he and others added, the massacre was committed by
+Manilla's people, he would have consented; but it was done by
+Tagamoio's people, and others of this party, headed by Dugumbe. This
+slaughter was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we have always heard
+that women coming to or from market have never been known to be
+molested: even when two districts are engaged in actual hostilities,
+"the women," say they, "pass among us to market unmolested," nor has one
+ever been known to be plundered by the men. These Nigger Moslems are
+inferior to the Manyuema in justice and right. The people under Hassani
+began the superwickedness of capture and pillage of all
+indiscriminately. Dugumbe promised to send over men to order Tagamoio's
+men to cease firing and burning villages; they remained over among the
+ruins, feasting on goats and fowls all night, and next day (16th)
+continued their infamous work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed.
+
+_16th July, 1871._--I restored upwards of thirty of the rescued to their
+friends: Dugumbe seemed to act in good faith, and kept none of them; it
+was his own free will that guided him. Women are delivered to their
+husbands, and about thirty-three canoes left in the creek are to be kept
+for the owners too.
+
+12 A.M.--Shooting still going on on the other side, and many captives
+caught. At 1 P.M. Tagamoio's people began to cross over in canoes,
+beating their drums, firing their guns, and shouting, as if to say, "See
+the conquering heroes come;" they are answered by the women of Dugumba's
+camp lullilooing, and friends then fire off their guns in joy. I count
+seventeen villages in flames, and the smoke goes straight up and forms
+clouds at the top of the pillar, showing great heat evolved, for the
+houses are full of carefully-prepared firewood. Dugumbe denies having
+sent Tagamoio on this foray, and Tagamoio repeats that he went to punish
+the friends made by Manilla, who, being a slave, had no right to make
+war and burn villages, that could only be done by free men. Manilla
+confesses to me privately that he did wrong in that, and loses all his
+beads and many friends in consequence.
+
+2 P.M.--An old man, called Kabobo, came for his old wife; I asked her if
+this were her husband, she went to him, and put her arm lovingly around
+him, and said "Yes." I gave her five strings of beads to buy food, all
+her stores being destroyed with her house; she bowed down, and put her
+forehead to the ground as thanks, and old Kabobo did the same: the tears
+stood in her eyes as she went off. Tagamoio caught 17 women, and other
+Arabs of his party, 27; dead by gunshot, 25. The heads of two headmen
+were brought over to be redeemed by their friends with slaves.
+
+3 P.M.--Many of the headmen who have been burned out by the foray came
+over to me, and begged me to come back with them, and appoint new
+localities for them to settle in again, but I told them that I was so
+ashamed of the company in which I found myself, that I could scarcely
+look the Manyuema in the face. They had believed that I wished to kill
+them--what did they think now? I could not remain among bloody
+companions, and would flee away, I said, but they begged me hard not to
+leave until they were again settled.
+
+The open murder perpetrated on hundreds of unsuspecting women fills me
+with unspeakable horror: I cannot think of going anywhere with the
+Tagamoio crew; I must either go down or up Lualaba, whichever the Banian
+slaves choose.
+
+4 P.M.--Dugumbe saw that by killing the market people he had committed a
+great error, and speedily got the chiefs who had come over to me to meet
+him at his house, and forthwith mix blood: they were in bad case. I
+could not remain to see to their protection, and Dugumbe, being the best
+of the whole horde, I advised them to make friends, and then appeal to
+him as able to restrain to some extent his infamous underlings. One
+chief asked to have his wife and daughter restored to him first, but
+generally they were cowed, and the fear of death was on them. Dugumbe
+said to me, "I shall do my utmost to get all the captives, but he must
+make friends now, in order that the market may not be given up." Blood
+was mixed, and an essential condition was, "You must give us chitoka,"
+or market. He and most others saw that in theoretically punishing
+Manilla, they had slaughtered the very best friends that strangers had.
+The Banian slaves openly declare that they will go only to Lomame, and
+no further. Whatever the Ujijian slavers may pretend, they all hate to
+have me as a witness of their cold-blooded atrocities. The Banian slaves
+would like to go with Tagamoio, and share in his rapine and get slaves.
+I tried to go down Lualaba, then up it, and west, but with bloodhounds
+it is out of the question. I see nothing for it but to go back to Ujiji
+for other men, though it will throw me out of the chance of discovering
+the fourth great Lake in the Lualaba line of drainage, and other things
+of great value.
+
+At last I said that I would start for Ujiji, in three days, on foot. I
+wished to speak to Tagamoio about the captive relations of the chiefs,
+but he always ran away when he saw me coming.
+
+_17th July, 1871._--All the rest of Dugumbe's party offered me a share
+of every kind of goods they had, and pressed me not to be ashamed to
+tell them what I needed. I declined everything save a little gunpowder,
+but they all made presents of beads, and I was glad to return
+equivalents in cloth. It is a sore affliction, at least forty-five days
+in a straight line--equal to 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings
+600 English miles, and all after feeding and clothing the Banian slaves
+for twenty-one months! But it is for the best though; if I do not trust
+to the riffraff of Ujiji, I must wait for other men at least ten months
+there. With help from above I shall yet go through Rua, see the
+underground excavations first, then on to Katanga, and the four ancient
+fountains eight days beyond, and after that Lake Lincoln.
+
+_18th July, 1871._--The murderous assault on the market people felt
+to me like Gehenna, without the fire and brimstone; but the heat was
+oppressive, and the firearms pouring their iron bullets on the
+fugitives, was not an inapt representative of burning in the bottomless
+pit.
+
+The terrible scenes of man's inhumanity to man brought on severe
+headache, which might have been serious had it not been relieved by a
+copious discharge of blood; I was laid up all yesterday afternoon, with
+the depression the bloodshed made,--it filled me with unspeakable
+horror. "Don't go away," say the Manyuema chiefs to me; but I cannot
+stay here in agony.
+
+_19th July, 1871._--Dugumbe sent me a fine goat, a maneh of gunpowder, a
+maneh of fine blue beads, and 230 cowries, to buy provisions in the way.
+I proposed to leave a doti Merikano and one of Kanike to buy specimens
+of workmanship. He sent me two very fine large Manyuema swords, and two
+equally fine spears, and said that I must not leave anything; he would
+buy others with his own goods, and divide them equally with me: he is
+very friendly.
+
+River fallen 4-1/2 feet since the 5th ult.
+
+A few market people appear to-day, formerly they came in crowds: a very
+few from the west bank bring salt to buy back the baskets from the camp
+slaves, which they threw away in panic, others carried a little food for
+sale, about 200 in all, chiefly those who have not lost relatives: one
+very beautiful woman had a gunshot wound in her upper arm tied round
+with leaves. Seven canoes came instead of fifty; but they have great
+tenacity and hopefulness, an old established custom has great charms for
+them, and the market will again be attended if no fresh outrage is
+committed. No canoes now come into the creek of death, but land above,
+at Ntambwe's village: this creek, at the bottom of the long gentle slope
+on which the market was held, probably led to its selection.
+
+A young Manyuema man worked for one of Dugumbe's people preparing a
+space to build on; when tired, he refused to commence to dig a pit, and
+was struck on the loins with an axe, and soon died: he was drawn out of
+the way, and his relations came, wailed over him, and buried him: they
+are too much awed to complain to Dugumbe!!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema
+    understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's.
+    Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked
+    in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary
+    escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for
+    five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill.
+    Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe
+    marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr.
+    Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines
+    to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the
+    Lusize. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet.
+    Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there.
+    Departure for Unyanyembe with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of
+    game.--Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley.
+    Thankfulness at reaching Unyatiyembe.
+
+
+_20th July, 1871._--I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbe's people came to
+say good bye, and convoy me a little way. I made a short march, for
+being long inactive it is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it
+is then difficult to get over the effects.
+
+_21st July, 1871._--One of the slaves was sick, and the rest falsely
+reported him to be seriously ill, to give them time to negotiate for
+women with whom they had cohabited: Dugumbe saw through the fraud, and
+said "Leave him to me: if he lives, I will feed him; if he dies, we
+will bury him: do not delay for any one, but travel in a compact body,
+as stragglers now are sure to be cut off." He lost a woman of his party,
+who lagged behind, and seven others were killed besides, and the forest
+hid the murderers. I was only too anxious to get away quickly, and on
+the 22nd started off at daylight, and went about six miles to the
+village of Mankwara, where I spent the night when coming this way. The
+chief Mokandira convoyed us hither: I promised him a cloth if I came
+across from Lomame. He wonders much at the underground houses, and never
+heard of them till I told him about them. Many of the gullies which were
+running fast when we came were now dry. Thunder began, and a few drops
+of rain fell.
+
+_23rd-24th July, 1871._--We crossed the River Kunda, of fifty yards, in
+two canoes, and then ascended from the valley of denudation, in which it
+flows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds followed, all anxious to carry loads
+for a few beads. Several market people came to salute, who knew that we
+had no hand in the massacre, as we are a different people from the
+Arabs. In going and coming they must have a march of 25 miles with loads
+so heavy no slave would carry them. They speak of us as "good:" the
+anthropologists think that to be spoken of as wicked is better. Ezekiel
+says that the Most High put His comeliness upon Jerusalem: if He does
+not impart of His goodness to me I shall never be good: if He does not
+put of His comeliness on me I shall never be comely in soul, but be like
+these Arabs in whom Satan has full sway--the god of this world having
+blinded their eyes.
+
+_25th July, 1871._--We came over a beautiful country yesterday, a vast
+hollow of denudation, with much cultivation, intersected by a ridge some
+300 feet high, on which the villages are built: this is Lobango. The
+path runs along the top of the ridge, and we see the fine country below
+all spread out with different shades of green, as on a map. The colours
+show the shapes of the different plantations in the great hollow drained
+by the Kunda. After crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, which flows into
+the Kunda, and it into Lualaba, we rose on to another intersecting
+ridge, having a great many villages burned by Matereka or Salem
+Mokadam's people, since we passed them in our course N.W. They had
+slept on the ridge after we saw them, and next morning, in sheer
+wantonness, fired their lodgings,--their slaves had evidently carried
+the fire along from their lodgings, and set fire to houses of villages
+in their route as a sort of horrid Moslem Nigger joke; it was done only
+because they could do it without danger of punishment: it was such fun
+to make the Mashense, as they call all natives, houseless. Men are worse
+than beasts of prey, if indeed it is lawful to call Zanzibar slaves men.
+It is monstrous injustice to compare free Africans living under their
+own chiefs and laws, and cultivating their own free lands, with what
+slaves afterwards become at Zanzibar and elsewhere.
+
+_26th July, 1871._--Came up out of the last valley of denudation--that
+drained by Kahembai, and then along a level land with open forest. Four
+men passed us in hot haste to announce the death of a woman at their
+village to her relations living at another. I heard of several deaths
+lately of dysentery. Pleurisy is common from cold winds from N.W.
+Twenty-two men with large square black shields, capable of completely
+hiding the whole person, came next in a trot to receive the body of
+their relative and all her gear to carry her to her own home for burial:
+about twenty women followed them, and the men waited under the trees
+till they should have wound the body up and wept over her. They smeared
+their bodies with clay, and their faces with soot. Reached our friend
+Kama.
+
+_27th July, 1871._--Left Kama's group of villages and went through many
+others before we reached Kasongo's, and were welcomed by all the Arabs
+of the camp at this place. Bought two milk goats reasonably, and rest
+over Sunday. (_28th and 29th_). They asked permission to send a party
+with me for goods to Ujiji; this will increase our numbers, and perhaps
+safety too, among the justly irritated people between this and Bambarre.
+All are enjoined to help me, and of course I must do the same to them.
+It is colder here than at Nyangwe. Kasongo is off guiding an ivory or
+slaving party, and doing what business he can on his own account; he has
+four guns, and will be the first to maraud on his own account.
+
+_30th July, 1871._--They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seventeen
+Manyuema volunteers to carry thither and back: these are the very first
+who in modern times have ventured fifty miles from the place of their
+birth. I came only three miles to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoye,
+and slept at village on a hill beyond it.
+
+_31st July, 1871._--Passed through the defile between Mount Kimazi and
+Mount Kijila. Below the cave with stalactite pillar in its door a fine
+echo answers those who feel inclined to shout to it. Come to Mangala's
+numerous villages, and two slaves being ill, rest on Wednesday.
+
+_1st August, 1871._--A large market assembles close to us.
+
+_2nd August, 1871._--Left Mangala's, and came through a great many
+villages all deserted on our approach on account of the vengeance taken
+by Dugumbe's party for the murder of some of their people. Kasongo's men
+appeared eager to plunder their own countrymen: I had to scold and
+threaten them, and set men to watch their deeds. Plantains are here very
+abundant, good, and cheap. Came to Kittette, and lodge in a village of
+Loembo. About thirty foundries were passed; they are very high in the
+roof, and thatched with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sand
+would. Rain runs off equally well.
+
+_3rd August, 1871._--Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon ivory we
+wait a day, Kasongo came up and filled their places.
+
+I have often observed effigies of men made of wood in Manyuema; some of
+clay are simply cones with a small hole in the top; on asking about them
+here, I for the first time obtained reliable information. They are
+called Bathata--fathers or ancients--and the name of each is carefully
+preserved. Those here at Kittette were evidently the names of chiefs,
+Molenda being the most ancient, whilst Mbayo Yamba, Kamoanga, Kitambwe,
+Nongo, Aulumba, Yenge Yenge, Simba Mayanga, Loembwe, are more recently
+dead. They were careful to have the exact pronunciation of the names.
+The old men told me that on certain occasions they offer goat's flesh to
+them: men eat it, and allow no young person or women to partake. The
+flesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old men. They say that if
+eaten by young men their children will have the waddling gait of the
+bird. They say that originally those who preceded Molenda came from
+Kongolakokwa, which conveys no idea to my mind. It was interesting to
+get even this little bit of history here. (Nkongolo = Deity; Nkongolokwa
+as the Deity.)
+
+_4th August, 1871._--Came through miles of villages all burned because
+the people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings! The men had begun to
+re-thatch the huts, and kept out of our way, but a goat was speared by
+some one in hiding, and we knew danger was near. Abdullah admitted that
+he had no other reason for burning them than the unwillingness of the
+people to lodge him and his slaves without payment, with the certainty
+of getting their food stolen and utensils destroyed.
+
+_5th and 6th August, 1871._--Through many miles of palm-trees and
+plantains to a Boma or stockaded village, where we slept, though the
+people were evidently suspicious and unfriendly.
+
+_7th August, 1871._--To a village, ill and almost every step in pain.
+The people all ran away, and appeared in the distance armed, and refused
+to come near--then came and threw stones at us, and afterwards tried to
+kill those who went for water. We sleep uncomfortably, the natives
+watching us all round. Sent men to see if the way was clear.
+
+_8th August, 1871._--They would come to no parley. They knew their
+advantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from Bin Juma and Mohamad's
+men when they threw down the ivory in the forest. In passing along the
+narrow path with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand, we came
+to a point where an ambush had been placed, and trees cut down to
+obstruct us while they speared us; but for some reason it was abandoned.
+Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down to the earth and peering
+up towards the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen: this was an
+infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation meant a
+spear. A large spear from my right lunged past and almost grazed my
+back, and stuck firmly into the soil. The two men from whom it came
+appeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards off and bolted, one
+looking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they are expert with the
+spear I don't know how it missed, except that he was too sure of his aim
+and the good hand of God was upon me.
+
+I was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass till I, the
+leader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib, or Kolokolo himself,
+came up to the point where they lay. A red jacket they had formerly seen
+me wearing was proof to them, that I was the same that sent Bin Juma to
+kill five of their men, capture eleven women and children, and
+twenty-five goats. Another spear was thrown at me by an unseen
+assailant, and it missed me by about a foot in front. Guns were fired
+into the dense mass of forest, but with no effect, for nothing could be
+seen; but we heard the men jeering and denouncing us close by: two of
+our party were slain.
+
+Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation I noticed a
+gigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an ant-hill 20 feet high;
+it had fire applied near its roots, I heard a crack which told that the
+fire had done its work, but felt no alarm till I saw it come straight
+towards me: I ran a few paces back, and down it came to the ground one
+yard behind me, and breaking into several lengths, it covered me with a
+cloud of dust. Had the branches not previously been rotted off, I could
+scarcely have escaped.
+
+Three times in one day was I delivered from impending death.
+
+My attendants, who were scattered in all directions, came running back
+to me, calling out, "Peace! peace! you will finish all your work in
+spite of these people, and in spite of everything." Like them, I took it
+as an omen of good success to crown me yet, thanks to the "Almighty
+Preserver of men."
+
+We had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by spearmen, who all
+felt that if they killed me they would be revenging the death of
+relations. From each hole in the tangled mass we looked for a spear; and
+each moment expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weapons
+hurled at us. I became weary with the constant strain of danger,
+and--as, I suppose, happens with soldiers on the field of battle--not
+courageous, but perfectly indifferent whether I were killed or not.
+
+When at last we got out of the forest and crossed the Liya on to the
+cleared lands near the villages of Monan-bundwa, we lay down to rest,
+and soon saw Muanampunda coming, walking up in a stately manner unarmed
+to meet us. He had heard the vain firing of my men into the bush, and
+came to ask what was the matter. I explained the mistake that Munangonga
+had made in supposing that I was Kolokolo, the deeds of whose men he
+knew, and then we went on to his village together.
+
+In the evening he sent to say that if I would give him all my people who
+had guns, he would call his people together, burn off all the vegetation
+they could fire, and punish our enemies, bringing me ten goats instead
+of the three milch goats I had lost. I again explained that the attack
+was made by a mistake in thinking I was Mohamad Bogharib, and that I had
+no wish to kill men: to join in his old feud would only make matters
+worse. This he could perfectly understand.
+
+I lost all my remaining calico, a telescope, umbrella, and five spears,
+by one of the slaves throwing down the load and taking up his own bundle
+of country cloth.
+
+_9th August, 1871._--Went on towards Mamohela, now deserted by the
+Arabs. Monanponda convoyed me a long way, and at one spot, with grass
+all trodden down, he said, "Here we killed a man of Moezia and ate his
+body." The meat cut up had been seen by Dugumbe.
+
+_10th August, 1871._--In connection with this affair the party that came
+through from Mamalulu found that a great fight had taken place at
+Muanampunda's, and they saw the meat cut up to be cooked with bananas.
+They did not like the strangers to look at their meat, but said, "Go on,
+and let our feast alone," they did not want to be sneered at. The same
+Muanampunda or Monambonda told me frankly that they ate the man of
+Moezia: they seem to eat their foes to inspire courage, or in revenge.
+One point is very remarkable; it is not want that has led to the custom,
+for the country is full of food: nobody is starved of farinaceous food;
+they have maize, dura, pennisetum, cassava and sweet potatoes, and for
+fatty ingredients of diet, the palm-oil, ground-nuts, sessamum, and a
+tree whose fruit yields a fine sweet oil: the saccharine materials
+needed are found in the sugar-cane, bananas, and plantains.
+
+Goats, sheep, fowls, dogs, pigs, abound in the villages, whilst the
+forest affords elephants, zebras, buffaloes, antelopes, and in the
+streams there are many varieties of fish. The nitrogenous ingredients
+are abundant, and they have dainties in palm-toddy, and tobacco or
+Bange: the soil is so fruitful that mere scraping off the weeds is as
+good as ploughing, so that the reason for cannibalism does not lie in
+starvation or in want of animal matter, as was said to be the case with
+the New Zealanders. The only feasible reason I can discover is a
+depraved appetite, giving an extraordinary craving for meat which we
+call "high." They are said to bury a dead body for a couple of days in
+the soil in a forest, and in that time, owing to the climate, it soon
+becomes putrid enough for the strongest stomachs.
+
+The Lualaba has many oysters in it with very thick shells. They are
+called _Makessi_, and at certain seasons are dived for by the Bagenya
+women: pearls are said to be found in them, but boring to string them
+has never been thought of. _Kanone_, Ibis religiosa. _Uruko_, Kuss name
+of coffee.
+
+The Manyuema are so afraid of guns, that a man borrows one to settle any
+dispute or claim: he goes with it over his shoulder, and quickly
+arranges the matter by the pressure it brings, though they all know that
+he could not use it.
+
+_Gulu_, Deity above, or heaven. _Mamvu_, earth or below. _Gulu_ is a
+person, and men, on death, go to him. _Nkoba,_ lightning. _Nkongolo_,
+Deity (?). _Kula_ or _Nkula_, salt spring west of Nyangwe. _Kalunda_,
+ditto. _Kiria_, rapid down river. _Kirila_, islet in sight of Nyangwe.
+_Magoya_, ditto.
+
+_Note_.--The chief Zurampela is about N.W. of Nyangwe, and three days
+off. The Luive River, of very red water, is crossed, and the larger
+Mabila River receives it into its very dark water before Mabila enters
+Lualaba.
+
+A ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, as calculi are, is a
+great charm among the Arabs: it scares away other animals, they say.
+
+Lion's fat smeared on the tails of oxen taken through a country
+abounding in tsetse, or bungo, is a sure preventive; when I heard of
+this, I thought that lion's fat would be as difficult of collection as
+gnat's brains or mosquito tongues, but I was assured that many lions
+are killed on the Basango highland, and they, in common with all beasts
+there, are extremely fat: so it is not at all difficult to buy a
+calabash of the preventive, and Banyamwezi, desirous of taking cattle to
+the coast for sale, know the substance, and use it successfully (?).
+
+_11th August, 1871._--Came on by a long march of six hours across plains
+of grass and watercourses, lined with beautiful trees, to Kassessa's,
+the chief of Mamohela, who has helped the Arabs to scourge several of
+his countrymen for old feuds: he gave them goats, and then guided them
+by night to the villages, where they got more goats and many captives,
+each to be redeemed with ten goats more. During the last foray, however,
+the people learned that every shot does not kill, and they came up to
+the party with bows and arrows, and compelled the slaves to throw down
+their guns and powder-horns. They would have shown no mercy had Manyuema
+been thus in slave power; but this is a beginning of the end, which will
+exclude Arab traders from the country. I rested half a day, as I am
+still ill. I do most devoutly thank the Lord for sparing my life three
+times in one day. The Lord is good, a stronghold in the day of trouble,
+and He knows them that trust in Him.
+
+[The brevity of the following notes is fully accounted for: Livingstone
+was evidently suffering too severely to write more.]
+
+_12th August, 1871._--Mamohela camp all burned off. We sleep at Mamohela
+village.
+
+_13th August, 1871._--At a village on the bank of River Lolindi, I am
+suffering greatly. A man brought a young, nearly full-fledged, kite from
+a nest on a tree: this is the first case of their breeding, that I am
+sure of, in this country: they are migratory into these intertropical
+lands from the south, probably.
+
+_14th August, 1871._--Across many brisk burns to a village on the side
+of a mountain range. First rains 12th and 14th, gentle; but near Luamo,
+it ran on the paths, and caused dew.
+
+_15th August, 1871._--To Muanambonyo's. Golungo, a bush buck, with
+stripes across body, and two rows of spots along the sides (?)
+
+_16th August, 1871._--To Luamo River. Very ill with bowels.
+
+_17th August, 1871._--Cross river, and sent a message to my friend.
+Katomba sent a bountiful supply of food back.
+
+_18th August, 1871._--Reached Katomba, at Moenemgoi's, and was welcomed
+by all the heavily-laden Arab traders. They carry their trade spoil in
+three relays. Kenyengere attacked before I came, and 150 captives were
+taken and about 100 slain; this is an old feud of Moenemgoi, which the
+Arabs took up for their own gain. No news whatever from Ujiji, and M.
+Bogharib is still at Bambarre, with all my letters.
+
+_19th-20th August, 1871._--Rest from weakness. (_21st August, 1871._) Up
+to the palms on the west of Mount Kanyima Pass. (_22nd August, 1871._)
+Bambarre. (_28th August, 1871._) Better and thankful. Katomba's party
+has nearly a thousand frasilahs of ivory, and Mohamad's has 300
+frasilahs.
+
+_29th August, 1871._--Ill all night, and remain. (_30th August, 1871._)
+Ditto, ditto; but go on to Monandenda's on River Lombonda.
+
+_31st August, 1871._--Up and half over the mountain range, (_1st
+September, 1871_) and sleep in dense forest, with several fine running
+streams.
+
+_2nd September, 1871._--Over the range, and down on to a marble-capped
+hill, with a village on top.
+
+_3rd September, 1871._--Equinoctial gales. On to Lohombo.
+
+_5th September, 1871._--To Kasangangazi's. (_6th September, 1871._)
+Rest. (_7th September, 1871._) Mamba's. Rest on 8th. (_9th September,
+1871._) Ditto ditto. People falsely accused of stealing; but I disproved
+it to the confusion of the Arabs, who wish to be able to say, "the
+people of the English steal too." A very rough road from Kasangangazi's
+hither, and several running rivulets crossed.
+
+_10th September, 1871._--Manyuema boy followed us, but I insisted on his
+father's consent, which was freely given: marching proved too hard for
+him, however, and in a few days he left.
+
+Down into the valley of the Kapemba through beautiful undulating
+country, and came to village of Amru: this is a common name, and is used
+as "man," or "comrade," or "mate."
+
+_11th September, 1871._--Up a very steep high mountain range, Moloni or
+Mononi, and down to a village at the bottom on the other side, of a man
+called Molembu.
+
+_12th September, 1871._--Two men sick. Wait, though I am now
+comparatively sound and well. Dura flour, which we can now procure,
+helps to strengthen me: it is nearest to wheaten flour; maize meal is
+called "cold," and not so wholesome as the _Holeus sorghum_ or dura. A
+lengthy march through a level country, with high mountain ranges on each
+hand; along that on the left our first path lay, and it was very
+fatiguing. We came to the Rivulet Kalangai. I had hinted to Mohamad that
+if he harboured my deserters, it might go hard with him; and he came
+after me for two marches, and begged me not to think that he did
+encourage them. They came impudently into the village, and I had to
+drive them out: I suspected that he had sent them. I explained, and he
+gave me a goat, which I sent back for.
+
+_13th September, 1871._--This march back completely used up the Manyuema
+boy: he could not speak, or tell what he wanted cooked, when he arrived.
+I did not see him go back, and felt sorry for the poor boy, who left us
+by night. People here would sell nothing, so I was glad of the goat.
+
+_14th September, 1871._--To Pyanamosinde's. _(15th September, 1871.)_ To
+Karungamagao's; very fine undulating green country. _(16th and 17th
+September, 1871.)_ Rest, as we could get food to buy.
+
+_(18th September, 1871.)_ To a stockaded village, where the people
+ordered us to leave. We complied, and went out half a mile and built
+our sheds in the forest: I like sheds in the forest much better than
+huts in the villages, for we have no mice or vermin, and incur no
+obligation.
+
+_19th September, 1871._--Found that Barua are destroying all the
+Manyuema villages not stockaded.
+
+_20th September, 1871._--We came to Kunda's on the River Katemba,
+through great plantations of cassava, and then to a woman chief's, and
+now regularly built our own huts apart from the villages, near the hot
+fountain called Kabila which is about blood-heat, and flows across the
+path. Crossing this we came to Mokwaniwa's, on the River Gombeze, and
+met a caravan, under Nassur Masudi, of 200 guns. He presented a fine
+sheep, and reported that Seyed Majid was dead--he had been ailing and
+fell from some part of his new house at Darsalam, and in three days
+afterwards expired. He was a true and warm friend to me and did all he
+could to aid me with his subjects, giving me two Sultan's letters for
+the purpose. Seyed Burghash succeeds him; this change causes anxiety.
+Will Seyed Burghash's goodness endure now that he has the Sultanate?
+Small-pox raged lately at Ujiji.
+
+_22nd September, 1871._--Caravan goes northwards, and we rest, and eat
+the sheep kindly presented.
+
+_23rd September, 1871._--We now passed through the country of mixed
+Barua and Baguha, crossed the River Longumba twice and then came near
+the great mountain mass on west of Tanganyika. From Mokwaniwa's to
+Tanganyika is about ten good marches through open forest. The Guha
+people are not very friendly; they know strangers too well to show
+kindness: like Manyuema, they are also keen traders. I was sorely
+knocked up by this march from Nyangwe back to Ujiji. In the latter part
+of it, I felt as if dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain, the
+appetite failed, and a little bit of meat caused violent diarrhoea,
+whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the body. All the traders
+were returning successful: I alone had failed and experienced worry,
+thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of the end towards which I
+strained.
+
+_3rd October, 1871._--I read the whole Bible through four times whilst I
+was in Manyuema.
+
+_8th October, 1871._--The road covered with angular fragments of quartz
+was very sore to my feet, which are crammed into ill-made French shoes.
+How the bare feet of the men and women stood out, I don't know; it was
+hard enough on mine though protected by the shoes. We marched in the
+afternoons where water at this season was scarce. The dust of the march
+caused ophthalmia, like that which afflicted Speke: this was my first
+touch of it in Africa. We now came to the Lobumba River, which flows
+into Tanganyika, and then to the village Loanda and sent to Kasanga, the
+Guha chief, for canoes. The Longumba rises, like the Lobumba, in the
+mountains called Kabogo West. We heard great noises, as if thunder, as
+far as twelve days off, which were ascribed to Kabogo, as if it had
+subterranean caves into which the waves rushed with great noise, and it
+may be that the Longumba is the outlet of Tanganyika: it becomes the
+Luasse further down, and then the Luamo before it joins the Lualaba: the
+country slopes that way, but I was too ill to examine its source.
+
+_9th October, 1871._--On to islet Kasenge. After much delay got a good
+canoe for three dotis, and on _15th October, 1871_ went to the islet
+Kabiziwa.
+
+_18th October, 1871._--Start for Kabogo East, and _19th_ reach it 8 A.M.
+
+_20th October, 1871._--Rest men.
+
+_22nd October, 1871._--To Rombola.
+
+_23rd October, 1871._--At dawn, off and go to Ujiji. Welcomed by all the
+Arabs, particularly by Moenyeghere. I was now reduced to a skeleton,
+but the market being held daily, and all kinds of native food brought to
+it, I hoped that food and rest would soon restore me, but in the evening
+my people came and told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods, and
+Moenyeghere confirmed it by saying, "We protested, but he did not leave
+a single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a string of beads out of 700
+lbs." This was distressing. I had made up my mind, if I could not get
+people at Ujiji, to wait till men should come from the coast, but to
+wait in beggary was what I never contemplated, and I now felt miserable.
+Shereef was evidently a moral idiot, for he came without shame to shake
+hands with me, and when I refused, assumed an air of displeasure, as
+having been badly treated; and afterwards came with his "Balghere,"
+good-luck salutation, twice a day, and on leaving said, "I am going to
+pray," till I told him that were I an Arab, his hand and both ears would
+be cut off for thieving, as he knew, and I wanted no salutations from
+him. In my distress it was annoying to see Shereef's slaves passing from
+the market with all the good things that my goods had bought.
+
+_24th October, 1871._--My property had been sold to Shereef's friends at
+merely nominal prices. Syed bin Majid, a good man, proposed that they
+should be returned, and the ivory be taken from Shereef; but they would
+not restore stolen property, though they knew it to be stolen.
+Christians would have acted differently, even those of the lowest
+classes. I felt in my destitution as if I were the man who went down
+from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves; but I could not hope
+for Priest, Levite, or good Samaritan to come by on either side, but one
+morning Syed bin Majid said to me, "Now this is the first time we have
+been alone together; I have no goods, but I have ivory; let me, I pray
+you, sell some ivory, and give the goods to you." This was encouraging;
+but I said, "Not yet, but by-and-bye." I had still a few barter goods
+left, which I had taken the precaution to deposit with Mohamad bin Saleh
+before going to Manyuema, in case of returning in extreme need. But when
+my spirits were at their lowest ebb, the good Samaritan was close at
+hand, for one morning Susi came running at the top of his speed and
+gasped out, "An Englishman! I see him!" and off he darted to meet him.
+The American flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality of
+the stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge kettles, cooking pots,
+tents, &c, made me think "This must be a luxurious traveller, and not
+one at his wits' end like me." _(28th October, 1871.)_ It was Henry
+Moreland Stanley, the travelling correspondent of the _New York Herald,_
+sent by James Gordon Bennett, junior, at an expense of more than
+4000_l._, to obtain accurate information about Dr. Livingstone if
+living, and if dead to bring home my bones. The news he had to tell to
+one who had been two full years without any tidings from Europe made my
+whole frame thrill. The terrible fate that had befallen France, the
+telegraphic cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election of
+General Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon--my constant friend, the
+proof that Her Majesty's Government had not forgotten me in voting
+1000_l_. for supplies, and many other points of interest, revived
+emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema. Appetite returned, and
+instead of the spare, tasteless, two meals a day, I ate four times
+daily, and in a week began to feel strong. I am not of a demonstrative
+turn; as cold, indeed, as we islanders are usually reputed to be, but
+this disinterested kindness of Mr. Bennett, so nobly carried into effect
+by Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming. I really do feel extremely
+grateful, and at the same time I am a little ashamed at not being more
+worthy of the generosity. Mr. Stanley has done his part with untiring
+energy; good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. His
+helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who, by their excesses at
+Zanzibar and elsewhere, had ruined their constitutions, and prepared
+their systems to be fit provender for the grave. They had used up their
+strength by wickedness, and were of next to no service, but rather
+downdrafts and unbearable drags to progress.
+
+_16th November, 1871._--As Tanganyika explorations are said by Mr.
+Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, we go at his
+expense and by his men to the north of the Lake.
+
+[Dr. Livingstone on a previous occasion wrote from the interior of
+Africa to the effect that Lake Tanganyika poured its waters into the
+Albert Nyanza Lake of Baker. At the time perhaps he hardly realized the
+interest that such an announcement was likely to occasion. He was now
+shown the importance of ascertaining by actual observation whether the
+junction really existed, and for this purpose he started with Mr.
+Stanley to explore the region of the supposed connecting link in the
+North, so as to verify the statements of the Arabs.]
+
+_16th November, 1871._--Four hours to Chigoma.
+
+_20th and 21st November, 1871._--Passed a very crowded population, the
+men calling to us to land to be fleeced and insulted by way of Mahonga
+or Mutuari: they threw stones in rage, and one, apparently slung,
+lighted close to the canoe. We came on until after dark, and landed
+under a cliff to rest and cook, but a crowd came and made inquiries,
+then a few more came as if to investigate more perfectly: they told us
+to sleep, and to-morrow friendship should be made. We put our luggage on
+board and set a watch on the cliff. A number of men came along, cowering
+behind rocks, which then aroused suspicion, and we slipped off quietly;
+they called after us, as men baulked of their prey. We went on five
+hours and slept, and then this morning came on to Magala, where the
+people are civil, but Mukamba had war with some one. The Lake narrows to
+about ten miles, as the western mountains come towards the eastern
+range, that being about N.N.W. magnetic. Many stumps of trees killed by
+water show an encroachment by the Lake on the east side. A transverse
+range seems to shut in the north end, but there is open country to the
+east and west of its ends.
+
+_24th November, 1871._--To Point Kizuka in Mukamba's country. A
+Molongwana came to us from Mukamba and asserted most positively that all
+the water of Tanganyika flowed into the River Lusize, and then on to
+Ukerewe of Mteza; nothing could be more clear than his statements.
+
+_25th November, 1871._--We came on about two hours to some villages on a
+high bank where Mukamba is living. The chief, a young good-looking man
+like Mugala, came and welcomed us. Our friend of yesterday now declared
+as positively as before that the water of Lusize flowed into Tanganyika,
+and not the way he said yesterday! I have not the smallest doubt but
+Tanganyika discharges somewhere, though we may be unable to find it.
+Lusize goes to or comes from Luanda and Karagwe. This is hopeful, but I
+suspend my judgment. War rages between Mukamba and Wasmashanga or
+Uasmasane, a chief between this and Lusize: ten men were killed of
+Mukamba's people a few days ago. Vast numbers of fishermen ply their
+calling night and day as far as we can see. Tanganyika closes in except
+at one point N. and by W. of us. The highest point of the western range,
+about 7000 feet above the sea, is Sumburuza. We are to go to-morrow to
+Luhinga, elder brother of Mukamba, near Lusize, and the chief follows us
+next day.
+
+_26th November, 1871._--Sunday. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. I gave
+Mukamba 9 dotis and 9 fundos. The end of Tanganyika seen clearly is
+rounded off about 4' broad from east to west.
+
+_27th November, 1871._--Mr. Stanley is better. We started at sunset
+westwards, then northwards for seven hours, and at 4 A.M. reached
+Lohinga, at the mouth of the Lusize.
+
+_28th November, 1871._--Shot an _Ibis religiosa._ In the afternoon
+Luhinga, the superior of Mukambe, came and showed himself very
+intelligent. He named eighteen rivers, four of which enter Tanganyika,
+and the rest Lusize: all come into, none leave Tanganyika.[15] Lusize is
+said to rise in Kwangeregere in the Kivo lagoon, between Mutumbe and
+Luanda. Nyabungu is chief of Mutumbe. Luhinga is the most intelligent
+and the frankest chief we have seen here.
+
+_29th November, 1871._--We go to see the Lusize Eiver in a canoe. The
+mouth is filled with large reedy sedgy islets: there are three branches,
+about twelve to fifteen yards broad, and one fathom deep, with a strong
+current of 2' per hour: water discoloured. The outlet of the Lake is
+probably by the Longumba River into Lualaba as the Luamo, but this as
+yet must be set down as a "theoretical discovery."
+
+_30th November, 1871._--A large present of eggs, flour, and a sheep came
+from Mukamba. Mr. Stanley went round to a bay in the west, to which the
+mountains come sheer down.
+
+_1st December, 1871, Friday._--Latitude last night 3 deg. 18' 3" S. I gave
+fifteen cloths to Lohinga, which pleased him highly. Kuansibura is the
+chief who lives near Kivo, the lagoon from which the Lusize rises: they
+say it flows under a rock.
+
+_2nd December, 1871._--Ill from bilious attack.
+
+_3rd December, 1871._--Better and thankful. Men went off to bring
+Mukamba, whose wife brought us a handsome present of milk, beer, and
+cassava. She is a good-looking young woman, of light colour and full
+lips, with two children of eight or ten years of age. We gave them
+cloths, and sheasked beads, so we made them a present of two fundos. By
+lunars I was one day wrong to-day.
+
+_4th December, 1871._--Very heavy rain from north all night. Baker's
+Lake cannot be as near as he puts it in his map, for it is unknown to
+Lohinge. He thinks that he is a hundred years old, but he is really
+about forty-five! Namataranga is the name of birds which float high in
+air in large flocks.
+
+_5th December, 1871._--We go over to a point on our east. The bay is
+about 12' broad: the mountains here are very beautiful. We visited the
+chief Mukamba, at his village five miles north of Lohinga's; he wanted
+us to remain a few days, but I declined. We saw two flocks of _Ibis
+religiosa,_ numbering in all fifty birds, feeding like geese.
+
+_6th December, 1871._--Remain at Luhinga's.
+
+_7th December, 1871._--Start and go S.W. to Lohanga: passed the point
+where Speke turned, then breakfasted at the marketplace.
+
+_8th December, 1871._--Go on to Mukamba; near the boundary of Babembe
+and Bavira. We pulled six hours to a rocky islet, with two rocks covered
+with trees on its western side. The Babembe are said to be dangerous, on
+account of having been slaughtered by the Malongwana. The Lat. of these
+islands is 3 deg. 41' S.
+
+_9th December, 1871._--Leave New York Herald Islet and go S. to Lubumba
+Cape. The people now are the Basansas along the coast. Some men here
+were drunk and troublesome: we gave them a present and left them about
+4-1/2 in afternoon and went to an islet at the north end in about three
+hours, good pulling, and afterwards in eight hours to the eastern shore;
+this makes the Lake, say, 28 or 30 miles broad. We coasted along to
+Mokungos and rested.
+
+_10th December, 1871._--Kisessa is chief of all the islet Mozima. His
+son was maltreated at Ujiji and died in consequence; this stopped the
+dura trade, and we were not assaulted because not Malongwana.
+
+_11th December, 1871._--Leave Mokungo at 6 A.M. and coast along 6-1/2
+hours to Sazzi.
+
+_12th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley ill with fever. Off, and after three
+hours, stop at Masambo village.
+
+_13th December, 1871._--Mr. Stanley better. Go on to Ujiji. Mr. Stanley
+received a letter from Consul Webb (American) of 11th June last, and
+telegrams from Aden up to 29th April.
+
+_14th December, 1871._--Many people off to fight Mirambo at Unyanyembe:
+their wives promenade and weave green leaves for victory.
+
+_15th December, 1871._--At Ujiji. Getting ready to march east for my
+goods.
+
+_16th December, 1871._--Engage paddlers to Tongwe and a guide.
+
+_17th December, 1871._--S. _18th._--Writing. _19th-20th._--Still
+writing despatches. Packed up the large tin box with Manyuema swords and
+spear heads, for transmission home by Mr. Stanley. Two chronometers and two
+watches--anklets of Nzige and of Manyuema. Leave with Mohamad bin Saleh
+a box with books, shirts, paper, &c.; also large and small beads, tea,
+coffee and sugar.
+
+_21st December, 1871._--Heavy rains for planting now.
+
+_22nd December, 1871._--Stanley ill of fever.
+
+_23rd December, 1871._--Do. very ill. Rainy and uncomfortable.
+
+_24th December, 1871._--S. _25th.--Christmas_. I leave here one bag of
+beads in a skin, 2 bags of Sungo mazi 746 and 756 blue. Gardner's bag of
+beads, soap 2 bars in 3 boxes (wood). 1st, tea and matunda; 2nd, wooden
+box, paper and shirts; 3rd, iron box, shoes, quinine, 1 bag of coffee,
+sextant stand, one long wooden box empty. These are left with Mohamad
+bin Saleh at Ujiji, Christmas Day, 1871. Two bags of beads are already
+here and table cloths.
+
+_26th December, 1871._--Had but a sorry Christmas yesterday.
+
+_27th December, 1871.--Mem_. To send Moenyeghere some coffee and tell
+his wishes to Masudi.
+
+_27th December, 1871._--Left Ujiji 9 A.M., and crossed goats, donkeys,
+and men over Luiche. Sleep at the Malagarasi.
+
+_29th December, 1871._--Crossed over the broad bay of the Malagarasi to
+Kagonga and sleep.
+
+_30th December, 1871._--Pass Viga Point, red sandstone, and cross the
+bay of the River Lugufu and Nkala village, and transport the people and
+goats: sleep.
+
+_31st December, 1871._--Send for beans, as there are no provisions in
+front of this. Brown water of the Lugufu bent away north: the high wind
+is S.W. and W. Having provisions we went round Munkalu Point. The water
+is slightly discoloured for a mile south of it, but brown water is seen
+on the north side of bay bent north by a current.
+
+_1st January, 1872._--May the Almighty help me to finish my work this
+year for Christ's sake! We slept in Mosehezi Bay. I was storm-stayed in
+Kifwe Bay, which is very beautiful--still as a millpond. We found 12 or
+13 hippopotami near a high bank, but did not kill any, for our balls are
+not hardened. It is high rocky tree-covered shore, with rocks bent and
+twisted wonderfully; large slices are worn off the land with hillsides
+clad with robes of living green, yet very, very steep.
+
+_2nd January, 1872._--A very broad Belt of large tussocks of reeds lines
+the shore near Mount Kibanga or Boumba. We had to coast along to the
+south. Saw a village nearly afloat, the people having there taken refuge
+from their enemies. There are many hippopotami and crocodiles in
+Tanganyika. A river 30 yards wide, the Kibanga, flows in strongly. We
+encamped on an open space on a knoll and put up flags to guide our land
+party to us.
+
+_3rd January, 1872._--We send off to buy food. Mr. Stanley shot a fat
+zebra, its meat was very good.
+
+_4th January, 1872._--The Ujijians left last night with their canoes. I
+gave them 14 fundos of beads to buy food on the way. We are now waiting
+for our land party. I gave headmen here at Burimba 2 dotis and a
+Kitamba. Men arrived yesterday or 4-1/2 days from the Lugufu.
+
+_5th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley is ill of fever. I am engaged in
+copying notes into my journal. All men and goats arrived safely.
+
+_6th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley better, and we prepare to go.
+
+_7th January, 1872._--Mr. Stanley shot a buffalo at the end of our first
+march up. East and across the hills. The River Luajere is in front. We
+spend the night at the carcase of the buffalo.
+
+_8th January, 1872._--We crossed the river, which is 30 yards wide and
+rapid. It is now knee and waist deep. The country is rich and beautiful,
+hilly and tree-covered, reddish soil, and game abundant.
+
+_9th January, 1872._--Rainy, but we went on E. and N.N.E. through a
+shut-in valley to an opening full of all kinds of game. Buffalo cows
+have calves now: one was wounded. Rain came down abundantly.
+
+_10th January, 1872._--Across a very lovely green country of open forest
+all fresh, and like an English gentleman's park. Game plentiful.
+Tree-covered mountains right and left, and much brown haematite on the
+levels. Course E. A range of mountains appears about three miles off on
+our right.
+
+_11th January, 1872._--Off through open forest for three hours east,
+then cook, and go on east another three hours, over very rough rocky,
+hilly country. River Mtambahu.
+
+_12th January, 1872._--Off early, and pouring rain came down; as we
+advance the country is undulating. We cross a rivulet 15 yards wide
+going north, and at another of 3 yards came to a halt; all wet and
+uncomfortable.
+
+The people pick up many mushrooms and manendinga roots, like turnips.
+There are buffaloes near us in great numbers.
+
+_13th January, 1872._--Fine morning. Went through an undulating hilly
+country clothed with upland trees for three hours, then breakfast in an
+open glade, with bottom of rocks of brown haematite, and a hole with
+rain-water in it. We are over 1000 feet higher than Tanganyika. It
+became cloudy, and we finished our march in a pouring rain, at a rivulet
+thickly clad with aquatic trees on banks. Course E.S.E.
+
+_14th January, 1872._--Another fine morning, but miserably wet
+afternoon. We went almost 4' E.S.E., and crossed a strong rivulet 8 or
+10 yards wide: then on and up to a ridge and along the top of it, going
+about south. We had breakfast on the edge of the plateau, looking down
+into a broad lovely valley. We now descended, and saw many reddish
+monkeys, which made a loud outcry: there was much game, but scattered,
+and we got none. Miserably wet crossing another stream, then up a valley
+to see a deserted Boma or fenced village.
+
+_15th January, 1872._--Along a valley with high mountains on each hand,
+then up over that range on our left or south. At the top some lions
+roared. We then went on on high land, and saw many hartebeests and
+zebra, but did not get one, though a buffalo was knocked over. We
+crossed a rivulet, and away over beautiful and undulating hills and
+vales, covered with many trees and jambros fruit. Sleep at a running
+rill.
+
+_16th January, 1872._--A very cold night after long-continued and heavy
+rain. Our camp was among brakens. Went E. and by S. along the high land,
+then we saw a village down in a deep valley into which we descended.
+Then up another ridge in a valley and along to a village well
+cultivated--up again 700 feet at least, and down to Merera's village,
+hid in a mountainous nook, about 140 huts with doors on one side. The
+valleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the people being eagerly
+engaged in weeding and hoeing to take advantage of the abundant rains
+which have drenched us every afternoon.
+
+_17th January, 1872._--We remain at Merera's to buy food for our men
+and ourselves.
+
+_18th January, 1872._--March, but the Mirongosi wandered and led us
+round about instead of S.S.E. We came near some tree-covered hills, and
+a river Monya Mazi--Mtamba River in front. I have very sore feet from
+bad shoes.
+
+_19th January, 1872._--Went about S.E. for four hours, and crossed the
+Mbamba River and passed through open forest. There is a large rock in
+the river, and hills thickly tree-covered, 2' East and West, down a
+steep descent and camp. Came down River Mpokwa over rough country with
+sore feet, to ruins of a village Basivira and sleep. _21st._--Rest.
+_22nd._--Rest. Mr. Stanley shot two zebras yesterday, and a she giraffe
+to-day, the meat of the giraffe was 1000 lbs. weight, the two zebras
+about 800 lbs.
+
+_23rd January, 1872._--Rest. Mr. Stanley has fever. _24th._--Ditto.
+_25th_.--Stanley ill. _26th_.--Stanley better and off.
+
+_26th January, 1872._--Through low hills N.E. and among bamboos to open
+forest--on in undulating bushy tract to a river with two rounded hills
+east, one having three mushroom-shaped trees on it.
+
+_27th January, 1872._--On across long land waves and the only bamboos
+east of Mpokwa Rill to breakfast. In going on a swarm of bees attacked a
+donkey Mr. Stanley bought for me, and instead of galloping off, as did
+the other, the fool of a beast rolled down, and over and over. I did the
+same, then ran, dashed into a bush like an ostrich pursued, then ran
+whisking a bush round my head. They gave me a sore head and face, before
+I got rid of the angry insects: I never saw men attacked before: the
+donkey was completely knocked up by the stings on head, face, and lips,
+and died in two days, in consequence. We slept in the stockade of
+Misonghi.
+
+_28th January, 1872._--We crossed the river and then away E. to near a
+hill. Crossed two rivers, broad and marshy, and deep with elephants
+plunging. Rain almost daily, but less in amount now. Bombay says his
+greatest desire is to visit Speke's grave ere he dies: he has a square
+head with the top depressed in the centre.
+
+_29th January, 1872._--We ascended a ridge, the edge of a flat basin
+with ledges of dark brown sandstone, the brim of ponds in which were
+deposited great masses of brown haematite, disintegrated into gravel,
+flat open forest with short grass. We crossed a rill of light-coloured
+water three times and reached a village. After this in 1-1/2 hour we
+came to Merera's.
+
+_30th January, 1872._--At Merera's, the second of the name. Much rain
+and very heavy; food abundant. Baniayamwezi and Yukonongo people here.
+
+_31st January, 1872._--Through scraggy bush, then open forest with short
+grass, over a broad rill and on good path to village Mwaro; chief
+Kamirambo.
+
+_1st February, 1872._--We met a caravan of Syde bin Habib's people
+yesterday who reported that Mirambo has offered to repay all the goods
+he has robbed the Arabs of, all the ivory, powder, blood, &c., but his
+offer was rejected. The country all around is devastated, and Arab force
+is at Simba's. Mr. Stanley's man Shaw is dead. There is very great
+mortality by small-pox amongst the Arabs and at the coast. We went over
+flat upland forest, open and bushy, then down a deep descent and along
+N.E. to a large tree at a deserted stockade.
+
+_2nd February, 1872._--Away over ridges of cultivation and elephant's
+footsteps. Cultivators all swept away by Basavira. Very many elephants
+feed here. We lost our trail and sent men to seek it, then came to the
+camp in the forest. Lunched at rill running into Ngombe Nullah.
+
+Ukamba is the name of the Tsetse fly here.
+
+_3rd February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley has severe fever, with great pains in
+the back and loins: an emetic helped him a little, but resin of jalap
+would have cured him quickly. Rainy all day.
+
+_4th February, 1872._--Mr. Stanley so ill that we carried him in a cot
+across flat forest and land covered with short grass for three hours,
+about north-east, and at last found a path, which was a great help. As
+soon as the men got under cover continued rains began. There is a camp
+of Malongwana here.
+
+_5th February, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. Mr. Stanley a little better, but
+still carried across same level forest; we pass water in pools, and one
+in haematite. Saw a black rhinoceros, and come near people.
+
+_6th February, 1872._--Drizzly morning, but we went on, and in two hours
+got drenched with cold N.W. rain: the paths full of water we splashed
+along to our camp in a wood. Met a party of native traders going to
+Mwara.
+
+_7th February, 1872._--Along level plains, and clumps of forest, and
+hollows filled at present with water, about N.E., to a large pool of
+Ngombe Nullah. Send off two men to Unyanyembe for letters and medicine.
+
+_8th February, 1872._--Removed from the large pool of the nullah, about
+an hour north, to where game abounds. Saw giraffes and zebras on our
+way. The nullah is covered with lotus-plants, and swarms with
+crocodiles.
+
+_9th February, 1872._--Remained for game, but we were unsuccessful. An
+eland was shot by Mr. Stanley, but it was lost. Departed at 2 P.M., and
+reached Manyara, a kind old chief. The country is flat, and covered with
+detached masses of forest, with open glades and flats.
+
+_10th February, 1872._--Leave Manyara and pass along the same park-like
+country, with but little water. The rain sinks into the sandy soil at
+once, and the collection is seldom seen. After a hard tramp we came to a
+pool by a sycamore-tree, 28 feet 9 inches in circumference, with broad
+fruit-laden branches. Ziwane.
+
+_11th February, 1872._--Rain nearly all night. Scarcely a day has
+passed without rain and thunder since we left Tanganyika Across a flat
+forest again, meeting a caravan for Ujiji. The grass is three feet high,
+and in seed. Reach Chikuru, a stockaded village, with dura plantations
+around it and pools of rain-water.
+
+_12th February, 1872._--Rest.
+
+_13th February, 1872._--Leave Chikuru, and wade across an open flat with
+much standing-water. They plant rice on the wet land round the villages.
+Our path lies through an open forest, where many trees are killed for
+the sake of the bark, which is used as cloth, and for roofing and beds.
+Mr. Stanley has severe fever.
+
+_14th February, 1872._--Across the same flat open forest, with scraggy
+trees and grass three feet long in tufts. Came to a Boma. N.E. Gunda.
+
+_15th February, 1872._--Over the same kind of country, where the water
+was stagnant, to camp in the forest.
+
+_16th February, 1872._--Camp near Kigando, in a rolling country with
+granite knolls.
+
+_17th February, 1872._--Over a country, chiefly level, with stagnant
+water; rounded hills were seen. Cross a rain torrent and encamp in a new
+Boma, Magonda.
+
+_18th February, 1872._--Go through low tree-covered hills of granite,
+with blocks of rock sticking out: much land cultivated, and many
+villages. The country now opens out and we come to the Tembe,[16] in the
+midst of many straggling villages. Unyanyembe. Thanks to the Almighty.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] The reader will best judge of the success of the experiment by
+looking at a specimen of the writing. An old sheet of the _Standard_
+newspaper, made into rough copy-books, sufficed for paper in the
+absence of all other material, and by writing across the print no
+doubt the notes were tolerably legible at the time. The colour of the
+decoction used instead of ink has faded so much that if Dr.
+Livingstone's handwriting had not at all times been beautifully clear
+and distinct it would have been impossible to decipher this part of
+his diary.--Ed.
+
+[15] Thus the question of the Lusize was settled at once: the previous
+notion of its outflow to the north proved a myth.--ED.
+
+[16] Tembe, a flat-roofed Arab house.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits.
+    Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages.
+    Mteza's people arrive. Ancient geography. Tabora. Description of
+    the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population
+    of Unyanyembe. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir S. Baker's
+    policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours.
+    Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries.
+    Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married.
+
+
+By the arrival of the fast Ramadan on the 14th November, and a Nautical
+Almanac, I discovered that I was on that date twenty-one days too fast
+in my reckoning. Mr. Stanley used some very strong arguments in favour
+of my going home, recruiting my strength, getting artificial teeth, and
+then returning to finish my task; but my judgment said, "All your
+friends will wish you to make a complete work of the exploration of the
+sources of the Nile before you retire." My daughter Agnes says, "Much as
+I wish you to come home, I would rather that you finished your work to
+your own satisfaction than return merely to gratify me." Rightly and
+nobly said, my darling Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty loudly, "She is a
+chip of the old block." My blessing on her and all the rest.
+
+It is all but certain that four full-grown gushing fountains rise on the
+watershed eight days south of Katanga, each of which at no great
+distance off becomes a large river; and two rivers thus formed flow
+north to Egypt, the other two to Inner Ethiopia; that is, Lufira or
+Bartle Frere's River, flows into Kamolondo, and that into Webb's
+Lualaba, the main line of drainage. Another, on the north side of the
+sources, Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba, flows through Lake Lincoln,
+otherwise named Chibungo and Lomame, and that too into Webb's Lualaba.
+Then Liambai Fountain, Palmerston's, forms the Upper Zambesi; and the
+Lunga (Lunga), Oswell's Fountain, is the Kafue; both flowing into Inner
+Ethiopia. It may be that these are not the fountains of the Nile
+mentioned to Herodotus by the secretary of Minerva, in Sais, in Egypt;
+but they are worth discovery, as in the last hundred of the seven
+hundred miles of the watershed, from which nearly all the Nile springs
+do unquestionably arise.
+
+I propose to go from Unyanyembe to Fipa; then round the south end of
+Tanganyika, Tambete, or Mbete; then across the Chambeze, and round south
+of Lake Bangweolo, and due west to the ancient fountains; leaving the
+underground excavations till after visiting Katanga. This route will
+serve to certify that no other sources of the Nile can come from the
+south without being seen by me. No one will cut me out after this
+exploration is accomplished; and may the good Lord of all help me to
+show myself one of His stout-hearted servants, an honour to my children,
+and, perhaps, to my country and race.
+
+Our march extended from 26th December, 1871, till 18th February, 1872,
+or fifty-four days. This was over 300 miles, and thankful I am to reach
+Unyanyembe, and the Tembe Kwikuru.
+
+I find, also, that the two headmen selected by the notorious, but covert
+slave-trader, Ludha Damji, have been plundering my stores from the 20th
+October, 1870, to 18th February, 1872, or nearly sixteen months. One has
+died of small-pox, and the other not only plundered my stores, but has
+broken open the lock of Mr. Stanley's storeroom, and plundered his
+goods. He declared that all my goods were safe, but when the list was
+referred to, and the goods counted, and he was questioned as to the
+serious loss, he at last remembered a bale of seven pieces of merikano,
+and three kanike--or 304 yards, that he evidently had hidden. On
+questioning him about the boxes brought, he was equally ignorant, but at
+last said, "Oh! I remember a box of brandy where it went, and every one
+knows as well as I."
+
+_18th February, 1872._--This, and Mr. Stanley's goods being found in his
+possession, make me resolve to have done with him. My losses by the
+robberies of the Banian employed slaves are more than made up by Mr.
+Stanley, who has given me twelve bales of calico; nine loads = fourteen
+and a half bags of beads; thirty-eight coils of brass wire; a tent;
+boat; bath; cooking pots; twelve copper sheets; air beds; trowsers;
+jackets, &c. Indeed, I am again quite set up, and as soon as he can send
+men, not slaves, from the coast I go to my work, with a fair prospect of
+finishing it.
+
+_19th February, 1872._--Rest. Receive 38 coils of brass wire from Mr.
+Stanley, 14-1/2 bags of beads, 12 copper sheets, a strong canvas tent,
+boat-trowsers, nine loads of calico, a bath, cooking pots, a medicine
+chest, a good lot of tools, tacks, screw nails, copper nails, books,
+medicines, paper, tar, many cartridges, and some shot.
+
+_20th February, 1872._--To my great joy I got four flannel shirt from
+Agnes, and I was delighted to find that two pairs of fine English boots
+had most considerately been sent by my friend Mr. Waller. Mr. Stanley
+and I measured the calico and found that 733-3/4 yards were wanting,
+also two frasilahs of samsam, and one case of brandy. Othman pretended
+sickness, and blamed the dead men, but produced a bale of calico hidden
+in Thani's goods; this reduced the missing quantity to 436-1/2 yards.
+
+_21st February, 1872._--Heavy rains. I am glad we are in shelter. Masudi
+is an Arab, near to Ali bin Salem at Bagamoio. Bushir is an Arab, for
+whose slave he took a bale of calico. Masudi took this Chirongozi, who
+is not a slave, as a pagazi or porter. Robbed by Bushir at the 5th camp
+from Bagamoio. Othman confessed that he knew of the sale of the box of
+brandy, and brought also a shawl which he had forgotten: I searched him,
+and found Mr. Stanley's stores which he had stolen.
+
+_22nd February, 1872._--Service this morning, and thanked God for safety
+thus far. Got a packet of letters from an Arab.
+
+_23rd February, 1872._--Send to Governor for a box which he has kept for
+four years: it is all eaten by white ants: two fine guns and a pistol
+are quite destroyed, all the wood-work being eaten. The brandy bottles
+were broken to make it appear as if by an accident, but the corks being
+driven in, and corks of maize cobs used in their place, show that a
+thief has drunk the brandy and then broken the bottles. The tea was
+spoiled, but the china was safe, and the cheese good.
+
+_24th February, 1872._--Writing a despatch to Lord Granville against
+Banian slaving, and in favour of an English native settlement transfer.
+
+_25th February, 1872._--A number of Batusi women came to-day asking for
+presents. They are tall and graceful in form, with well-shaped small
+heads, noses, and mouths. They are the chief owners of cattle here. The
+war with Mirambo is still going on. The Governor is ashamed to visit me.
+
+_26th February, 1872._--Writing journal and despatch.
+
+_27th February, 1872._--Moene-mokaia is ill of heart disease and liver
+abscess. I sent him some blistering fluid. To-day we hold a Christmas
+feast.
+
+_28th February, 1872._--Writing journal. Syde bin Salem called; he is a
+China-looking man, and tried to be civil to us.
+
+_5th March, 1872._--My friend Moene-mokaia came yesterday; he is very
+ill of abscess in liver, which has burst internally. I gave him some
+calomel and jalap to open his bowels. He is very weak; his legs are
+swollen, but body emaciated.
+
+_6th March, 1872._--Repairing tent, and receiving sundry stores,
+Moenem-okaia died.
+
+_7th March, 1872._--Received a machine for filling cartridges.
+
+_8th and 9th March, 1872._--Writing.
+
+_10th March, 1872._--Writing. Gave Mr. Stanley a cheque for 5000 rupees
+on Stewart and Co., Bombay. This 500_l._ is to be drawn if Dr. Kirk has
+expended the rest of the 1000_l._ If not, then the cheque is to be
+destroyed by Mr. Stanley.
+
+_12th March, 1872._--Writing.
+
+_13th March, 1872._--Finished my letter to Mr. Bennett of the _New York
+Herald_, and Despatch No. 3 to Lord Granville.
+
+_14th March, 1872._--Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to his care my journal
+sealed with five seals: the impressions on them are those of an American
+gold coin, anna, and half anna, and cake of paint with royal arms.
+Positively not to be opened.
+
+
+[We must leave each heart to know its own bitterness, as the old
+explorer retraces his steps to the Tembe at Kwihara, there to hope and
+pray that good fortune may attend his companion of the last few months
+on his journey to the coast; whilst Stanley, duly impressed with the
+importance of that which he can reveal to the outer world, and laden
+with a responsibility which by this time can be fully comprehended,
+thrusts on through every difficulty.
+
+There is nothing for it now but to give Mr. Stanley time to get to
+Zanzibar, and to shorten by any means at hand the anxious period which
+must elapse before evidence can arrive that he has carried out the
+commission entrusted to him.
+
+As we shall see, Livingstone was not without some material to afford him
+occupation. Distances were calculated from native report; preparations
+were pushed on for the coming journey to Lake Bangweolo; apparatus was
+set in order. Travellers from all quarters dropped in from time to time:
+each contributed something about his own land; whilst waifs and strays
+of news from the expedition sent by the Arabs against Mirambo kept the
+settlement alive. To return to his Diary.
+
+How much seems to lie in their separating, when we remember that with
+the last shake of the hand, and the last adieu, came the final parting
+between Livingstone and all that could represent the interest felt by
+the world in his travels, or the sympathy of the white man!]
+
+_15th March, 1872._--Writing to send after Mr. Stanley by two of his
+men, who wait here for the purpose. Copied line of route, observations
+from Kabuire to Casembe's, the second visit, and on to Lake Bangweolo;
+then the experiment of weight on watch-key at Nyangwe and Lusize.
+
+_16th March, 1872._--Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, and two of mine to
+bring his last words, if any.
+
+[Sunday was kept in the quiet of the Tembe, on the 17th March. Two days
+after, and his birthday again comes round--that day which seems always
+to have carried with it such a special solemnity. He has yet time to
+look back on his marvellous deliverances, and the venture he is about to
+launch forth upon.]
+
+_19th March, 1872._--Birthday. My Jesus, my king, my life, my all; I
+again dedicate my whole self to Thee. Accept me, and grant, Gracious
+Father, that ere this year is gone I may finish my task. In Jesus' name
+I ask it. Amen, so let it be.
+
+DAVID LIVINGSTONE.
+
+[Many of his astronomical observations were copied out at this time, and
+minute records taken of the rainfall. Books saved up against a rainy day
+were read in the middle of the "Masika" and its heavy showers.]
+
+_21st March, 1872._--Read Baker's book. It is artistic and clever.
+He does good service in exploring the Nile slave-trade; I hope he may be
+successful in suppressing it.
+
+The Batusi are the cattle herds of all this Unyanyembe region. They are
+very polite in address. The women have small compact, well-shaped heads
+and pretty faces; colour, brown; very pleasant to speak to; well-shaped
+figures, with small hands and feet; the last with high insteps, and
+springy altogether. Plants and grass are collected every day, and a fire
+with much smoke made to fumigate the cattle and keep off flies: the
+cattle like it, and the valleys are filled with smoke in the evening in
+consequence. The Baganda are slaves in comparison; black, with a tinge
+of copper-colour sometimes; bridgeless noses, large nostrils and lips,
+but well-made limbs and feet.
+
+[We see that the thread by which he still draws back a lingering word or
+two from Stanley has not parted yet.]
+
+_25th March, 1872._--Susi brought a letter back from Mr. Stanley. He had
+a little fever, but I hope he will go on safely.
+
+_26th March, 1872._--Rain of Masika chiefly by night. The Masika of 1871
+began on 23rd of March, and ended 30th of April.
+
+_27th March, 1872._--Reading. Very heavy rains.
+
+_28th March, 1872._--Moenyembegu asked for the loan of a "doti." He is
+starving, and so is the war-party at M'Futu; chaining their slaves
+together to keep them from running away to get food anywhere.
+
+_29th, 30th, 31st March, 1872._--Very rainy weather. Am reading 'Mungo
+Park's Travels;' they look so truthful.
+
+_1st April, 1872._--Read Young's 'Search after Livingstone;' thankful
+for many kind words about me. He writes like a gentleman.
+
+_2nd April, 1872._--Making a sounding-line out of lint left by Mr.
+Stanley. Whydah birds are now building their nests. The cock-bird brings
+fine grass seed-stalks off the top of my Tembe. He takes the end inside
+the nest and pulls it all in, save the ear. The hen keeps inside,
+constantly arranging the grass with all her might, sometimes making the
+whole nest move by her efforts. Feathers are laid in after the grass.
+
+_4th April, 1872._--We hear that Dugumbe's men have come to Ujiji with
+fifty tusks. He went down Lualaba with three canoes a long way and
+bought much ivory. They were not molested by Monangungo as we were.
+
+My men whom I had sent to look for a book left by accident in a hut some
+days' journey off came back stopped by a flood in their track. Copying
+observations for Sir T. Maclear.
+
+_8th April, 1872._--An Arab called Seyed bin Mohamad Magibbe called. He
+proposes to go west to the country west of Katanga (Urange).
+
+[It is very interesting to find that the results of the visit paid by
+Speke and Grant to Mteza, King of Uganda, have already become well
+marked. As we see, Livingstone was at Unyanyembe when a large trading
+party dropped in on their way back to the king, who, it will be
+remembered, lives on the north-western shores of the Victoria Nyassa.]
+
+_9th April, 1872._--About 150 Waganga of Mteza carried a present to
+Seyed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, consisting of ivory and a young
+elephant.[17] He spent all the ivory in buying return presents of
+gunpowder, guns, soap, brandy, gin, &c., and they have stowed it all in
+this Tembe. This morning they have taken everything out to see if
+anything is spoilt. They have hundreds of packages.
+
+One of the Baganda told me yesterday that the name of the Deity is
+Dubale in his tongue.
+
+_15th April, 1872._--Hung up the sounding-line on poles 1 fathom apart
+and tarred it. 375 fathoms of 5 strands.
+
+Ptolemy's geography of Central Africa seems to say that the science was
+then (second century A.D.) in a state of decadence from what was known
+to the ancient Egyptian priests as revealed to Herodotus 600 years
+before his day (or say B.C. 440). They seem to have been well aware by
+the accounts of travellers or traders that a great number of springs
+contributed to the origin of the Nile, but none could be pointed at
+distinctly as the "Fountains," except those I long to discover, or
+rather rediscover. Ptolemy seems to have gathered up the threads of
+ancient explorations, and made many springs (six) flow into two Lakes
+situated East and West of each other--the space above them being
+unknown. If the Victoria Lake were large, then it and the Albert would
+probably be the Lakes which Ptolemy meant, and it would be pleasant to
+call them Ptolemy's sources, rediscovered by the toil and enterprise of
+our countrymen Speke, Grant, and Baker--but unfortunately Ptolemy has
+inserted the small Lake "Coloe," nearly where the Victoria Lake stands,
+and one cannot say where his two Lakes are. Of Lakes Victoria,
+Bangweolo, Moero, Kamolondo--Lake Lincoln and Lake Albert, which two did
+he mean? The science in his time was in a state of decadence. Were two
+Lakes not the relics of a greater number previously known? What says the
+most ancient map known of Sethos II.'s time?
+
+_16th April, 1872._--Went over to visit Sultan bin Ali near
+Tabora--country open, plains sloping very gently down from low rounded
+granite hills covered with trees. Rounded masses of the light grey
+granite crop out all over them, but many are hidden by the trees: Tabora
+slopes down from some of the same hills that overlook Kwihara, where I
+live. At the bottom of the slope swampy land lies, and during the Masika
+it is flooded and runs westwards. The sloping plain on the North of the
+central drain is called Kaze--that on the South is Tabora, and
+this is often applied to the whole space between the hills north and
+south. Sultan bin Ali is very hospitable. He is of the Bedawee Arabs,
+and a famous marksman with his long Arab gun or matchlock. He often
+killed hares with it, always hitting them in the head. He is about
+sixty-five years of age, black eyed, six feet high and inclined to
+stoutness, and his long beard is nearly all grey. He provided two
+bountiful meals for self and attendants.
+
+Called on Mohamad bin Nassur--recovering from sickness. He presented a
+goat and a large quantity of guavas. He gave the news that came from
+Dugumbe's underling Nserere, and men now at Ujiji; they went S.W. to
+country called Nombe, it is near Rua, and where copper is smelted. After
+I left them on account of the massacre at Nyangwe, they bought much
+ivory, but acting in the usual Arab way, plundering and killing, they
+aroused the Bakuss' ire, and as they are very numerous, about 200 were
+killed, and none of Dugumbe's party. They brought fifty tusks to Ujiji.
+We dare not pronounce positively on any event in life, but this looks
+like prompt retribution on the perpetrators of the horrible and
+senseless massacre of Nyangwe. It was not vengeance by the relations of
+the murdered ones we saw shot and sunk in the Lualaba, for there is no
+communication between the people of Nyangwe and the Bakuss or people of
+Nombe of Lomame--that massacre turned my heart completely against
+Dugumbe's people. To go with them to Lomame as my slaves were willing to
+do, was so repugnant I preferred to return that weary 400 or 600 miles
+to Ujiji. I mourned over my being baffled and thwarted all the way, but
+tried to believe that it was all for the best--this news shows that had
+I gone with these people to Lomame, I could not have escaped the Bakuss
+spears, for I could not have run like the routed fugitives. I was
+prevented from going in order to save me from death. Many escapes from
+danger I am aware of: some make me shudder, as I think how near to
+death's door I came. But how many more instances of Providential
+protecting there may be of which I know nothing! But I thank most
+sincerely the good Lord of all for His goodness to me.
+
+_18th April, 1872._--I pray the good Lord of all to favour me so as to
+allow me to discover the ancient fountains of Herodotus, and if there is
+anything in the underground excavations to confirm the precious old
+documents ({~GREEK SMALL LETTER TAU~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER ALPHA WITH
+DASIA~} {~GREEK SMALL LETTER BETA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER IOTA~}{~GREEK
+SMALL LETTER BETA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER LAMDA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER IOTA
+WITH DASIA~}{~GREEK SMALL LETTER ALPHA~}), the Scriptures of truth, may
+He permit me to bring it to light, and give me wisdom to make a proper
+use of it.
+
+Some seem to feel that their own importance in the community is enhanced
+by an imaginary connection with a discovery or discoverer of the Nile
+sources, and are only too happy to figure, if only in a minor part, as
+theoretical discoverers--a theoretical discovery being a contradiction
+in terms.
+
+The cross has been used--not as a Christian emblem certainly, but from
+time immemorial as the form in which the copper ingot of Katanga is
+moulded--this is met with quite commonly, and is called Handiple
+Mahandi. Our capital letter I (called Vigera) is the large form of the
+bars of copper, each about 60 or 70 lbs. weight, seen all over Central
+Africa and from Katanga.
+
+_19th April, 1872._--A roll of letters and newspapers, apparently, came
+to-day for Mr. Stanley. The messenger says he passed Mr. Stanley on the
+way, who said, "Take this to the Doctor;" this is erroneous. The Prince
+of Wales is reported to be dying of typhoid fever: the Princess Louise
+has hastened to his bedside.
+
+_20th April, 1872._--Opened it on 20th, and found nine 'New York
+Heralds' of December 1-9, 1871, and one letter for Mr. Stanley, which. I
+shall forward, and one stick of tobacco.
+
+_21st April, 1872._--Tarred the tent presented by Mr. Stanley.
+
+_23rd April, 1872._--Visited Kwikuru, and saw the chief of all the
+Banyamwezi (around whose Boma it is), about sixty years old, and
+partially paralytic. He told me that he had gone as far as Katanga by
+the same Fipa route I now propose to take, when a little boy following
+his father, who was a great trader.
+
+The name Banyamwezi arose from an ivory ornament of the shape of the new
+moon hung to the neck, with a horn reaching round over either shoulder.
+They believe that they came from the sea-coast, Mombas (?) of old, and
+when people inquired for them they said, "We mean the men of the moon
+ornament." It is very popular even now, and a large amount of ivory is
+cut down in its manufacture; some are made of the curved tusks of
+hippopotami. The Banyamwezi have turned out good porters, and they do
+most of the carrying work of the trade to and from the East Coast; they
+are strong and trustworthy. One I saw carried six frasilahs, or 200
+lbs., of ivory from Unyanyembe to the sea-coast.
+
+The prefix "_Nya_" in Nyamwezi seems to mean place or locality, as Mya
+does on the Zambesi. If the name referred to the "moon ornament," as the
+people believe, the name would be Ba or Wamwezi, but Banyamwezi means
+probably the Ba--they or people--Nya, place--Mwezi, moon, people of the
+moon locality or moon-land.
+
+_Unyanyembe_, place of hoes.
+
+Unyambewa.
+
+Unyangoma, place of drums.
+
+Nyangurue, place of pigs.
+
+Nyangkondo.
+
+Nyarukwe.
+
+It must be a sore affliction to be bereft of one's reason, and the more
+so if the insanity takes the form of uttering thoughts which in a sound
+state we drive from us as impure.
+
+_25th and 26th April, 1872._--A touch of fever from exposure.
+
+_27th April, 1872._--Better, and thankful. Zahor died of small-pox here,
+after collecting much ivory at Fipa and Urungu. It is all taken up by
+Lewale.[18]
+
+The rains seem nearly over, and are succeeded by very cold easterly
+winds; these cause fever by checking the perspiration, and are well
+known as eminently febrile. The Arabs put the cause of the fever to the
+rains drying up. In my experience it is most unhealthy during the rains
+if one gets wet; the chill is brought on, the bowels cease to act, and
+fever sets in. Now it is the cold wind that operates, and possibly this
+is intensified by the malaria of the drying-up surface. A chill from
+bathing on the 25th in cold water gave me a slight attack.
+
+_1st May, 1872._--Unyanyembe: bought a cow for 11 dotis of merikano (and
+2 kanike for calf), she gives milk, and this makes me independent.
+
+Headman of the Baganda from whom I bought it said, "I go off to pray."
+He has been taught by Arabs, and is the first proselyte they have
+gained. Baker thinks that the first want of Africans is to teach them to
+_want_. Interesting, seeing he was bored almost to death by Kamrasi
+wanting everything he had.
+
+Bought three more cows and calves for milk, they give good quantity
+enough for me and mine, and are small shorthorns: one has a hump--two
+black with white spots and one white--one black with white face: the
+Baganda were well pleased with the prices given, and so am I. Finished a
+letter for the _New York Herald,_ trying to enlist American zeal to stop
+the East Coast slave-trade: I pray for a blessing on it from the
+All-Gracious. [Through a coincidence a singular interest attaches to
+this entry. The concluding words of the letter he refers to are as
+follows:--]
+
+"All I can add in my loneliness is, may Heaven's rich blessing come down
+on everyone, American, English, or Turk, who will help to heal the open
+sore of the world."
+
+[It was felt that nothing could more palpably represent the man, and
+this quotation has consequently been inscribed upon the tablet erected
+to his memory near his grave in Westminster Abbey. It was noticed some
+time after selecting it that Livingstone wrote these words exactly one
+year before his death, which, as we shall see, took place on the 1st
+May, 1873.]
+
+_3rd May, 1872._--The entire population of Unyanyembe called Arab is
+eighty males, many of these are country born, and are known by the
+paucity of beard and bridgeless noses, as compared with men from Muscat;
+the Muscatees are more honourable than the mainlanders, and more
+brave--altogether better looking and better everyway.
+
+If we say that the eighty so-called Arabs here have twenty dependants
+each, 1500 or 1600 is the outside population of Unyanyembe in connection
+with the Arabs. It is called an ivory station, that means simply that
+elephant's tusks are the chief articles of trade. But little ivory comes
+to market, every Arab who is able sends bands of his people to different
+parts to trade: the land being free they cultivate patches of maize,
+dura, rice, beans, &c., and after one or two seasons, return with what
+ivory they may have secured. Ujiji is the only mart in the country, and
+it is chiefly for oil, grain, goats, salt, fish, beef, native produce of
+all sorts, and is held daily. A few tusks are sometimes brought, but it
+can scarcely be called an ivory mart for that. It is an institution
+begun and carried on by the natives in spite of great drawbacks from
+unjust Arabs. It resembles the markets of Manyuema, but is attended
+every day by about 300 people. No dura has been brought lately to Ujiji,
+because a Belooch man found the son of the chief of Mbwara Island
+peeping in at his women, and beat the young man, so that on returning
+home he died. The Mbwara people always brought much grain before that,
+but since that affair never come.
+
+The Arabs send a few freemen as heads of a party of slaves to trade.
+These select a friendly chief, and spend at least half these goods
+brought in presents on him, and in buying the best food the country
+affords for themselves. It happens frequently that the party comes back
+nearly empty handed, but it is the Banians that lose, and the Arabs are
+not much displeased. This point is not again occupied if it has been a
+dead loss.
+
+_4th May, 1872._--Many palavers about Mirambu's death having taken place
+and being concealed. Arabs say that he is a brave man, and the war is
+not near its end. Some northern natives called Bagoye get a keg of
+powder and a piece of cloth, go and attack a village, then wait a month
+or so eating the food of the captured place, and come back for stores
+again: thus the war goes on. Prepared tracing paper to draw a map for
+Sir Thomas Maclear. Lewale invites me to a feast.
+
+_7th May, 1872._--New moon last night. Went to breakfast with Lewale. He
+says that the Mirambo war is virtually against himself as a Seyed Majid
+man. They wish to have him removed, and this would be a benefit.
+
+The Banyamwezi told the Arabs that they did not want them to go to
+fight, because when one Arab was killed all the rest ran away and the
+army got frightened.
+
+"Give us your slaves only and we will fight," say they.
+
+A Magohe man gave charms, and they pressed Mirambo sorely. His brother
+sent four tusks as a peace-offering, and it is thought that the end is
+near. His mother was plundered, and lost all her cattle.
+
+_9th May, 1872._--No fight, though it was threatened yesterday: they all
+like to talk a great deal before striking a blow. They believe that in
+the multitude of counsellors there is safety. Women singing as they
+pound their grain into meal,--"Oh, the march of Bwanamokolu to Katanga!
+Oh, the march to Katanga and back to Ujiji!--Oh, oh, oh!" Bwanamokolu
+means the great or old gentleman. Batusi women are very keen traders,
+and very polite and pleasing in their address and pretty way of
+speaking.
+
+I don't know how the great loving Father will bring all out right at
+last, but He knows and will do it.
+
+The African's idea seems to be that they are within the power of a power
+superior to themselves--apart from and invisible: good; but frequently
+evil and dangerous. This may have been the earliest religious feeling of
+dependence on a Divine power without any conscious feeling of its
+nature. Idols may have come in to give a definite idea of superior
+power, and the primitive faith or impression obtained by Revelation
+seems to have mingled with their idolatry without any sense of
+incongruity. (See Micah in Judges.)[19]
+
+The origin of the primitive faith in Africans and others, seems always
+to have been a divine influence on their dark minds, which has proved
+persistent in all ages. One portion of primitive belief--the continued
+existence of departed spirits--seems to have no connection whatever with
+dreams, or, as we should say, with "ghost seeing," for great agony is
+felt in prospect of bodily mutilation or burning of the body after
+death, as that is believed to render return to one's native land
+impossible. They feel as if it would shut them off from all intercourse
+with relatives after death. They would lose the power of doing good to
+those onceloved, and evil to those who deserved their revenge. Take the
+case of the slaves in the yoke, singing songs of hate and revenge
+against those who sold them into slavery. They thought it right so to
+harbour hatred, though most of the party had been sold for
+crimes--adultery, stealing, &c.--which they knew to be sins.
+
+If Baker's expedition should succeed in annexing the valley of the Nile
+to Egypt, the question arises,--Would not the miserable condition of the
+natives, when subjected to all the atrocities of the White Nile
+slave-traders, be worse under Egyptian dominion? The villages would be
+farmed out to tax-collectors, the women, children and boys carried off
+into slavery, and the free thought and feeling of the population placed
+under the dead weight of Islam. Bad as the situation now is, if Baker
+leaves it matters will grow worse. It is probable that actual experience
+will correct the fancies he now puts forth as to the proper mode of
+dealing with Africans.
+
+_10th May, 1872._--Hamees Wodin Tagh, my friend, is reported slain by
+the Makoa of a large village he went to fight. Other influential Arabs
+are killed, but full information has not yet arrived. He was in youth a
+slave, but by energy and good conduct in trading with the Masai and far
+south of Nyassa, and elsewhere, he rose to freedom and wealth. He had
+good taste in all his domestic arrangements, and seemed to be a good
+man. He showed great kindness to me on my arrival at Chitimbwa's.
+
+_11th May, 1872._--A serpent of dark olive colour was found dead at my
+door this morning, probably killed by a cat. Puss approaches very
+cautiously, and strikes her claws into the head with a blow delivered as
+quick as lightning; then holds the head down with both paws, heedless of
+the wriggling mass of coils behind it; she then bites the neck and
+leaves it, looking with interest to the disfigured head, as if she knew
+that therein had lain the hidden power of mischief. She seems to
+possess a little of the nature of the _Ichneumon_, which was sacred in
+Egypt from its destroying serpents. The serpent is in pursuit of mice
+when killed by puss.
+
+_12th May, 1872._--Singeri, the headman of the Baganda here, offered me
+a cow and calf yesterday, but I declined, as we were strangers both, and
+this is too much for me to take. I said that I would take ten cows at
+Mtesa's if he offered them. I gave him a little medicine (arnica) for
+his wife, whose face was burned by smoking over gunpowder. Again he
+pressed the cow and calf in vain.
+
+The reported death of Hamees Wodin Tagh is contradicted. It was so
+circumstantial that I gave it credit, though the false reports in this
+land are one of its most marked characteristics. They are "enough to
+spear a sow."
+
+_13th May, 1872._--He will keep His word--the gracious One, full of
+grace and truth--no doubt of it. He said, "Him that cometh unto me, I
+will in nowise cast out," and "Whatsoever ye shall ask in my name I
+will give it." He WILL keep His word: then I can come and humbly
+present my petition, and it will be all right. Doubt is here
+inadmissible, surely.--D.L.
+
+Ajala's people, sent to buy ivory in Uganda, were coming back with some
+ten tusks and were attacked at Ugalla by robbers, and one free man
+slain: the rest threw everything down and fled. They came here with
+their doleful tale to-day.
+
+_14th May, 1872._--People came from Ujiji to-day, and report that many
+of Mohamad Bogharib's slaves have died of small-pox--Fundi and Suliman
+amongst them. Others sent out to get firewood have been captured by the
+Waha. Mohamad's chief slave, Othman, went to see the cause of their
+losses received a spear in the back, the point coming out at his
+breast. It is scarcely possible to tell how many of the slaves have
+perished since they were bought or captured, but the loss has been
+grievous.
+
+Lewale off to Mfutu to loiter and not to fight. The Bagoye don't wish
+Arabs to come near the scene of action, because, say they, "When one
+Arab is killed all the rest ran away, and they frighten us thereby. Stay
+at M'futu; we will do all the fighting." This is very acceptable advice.
+
+_16th May, 1872._--A man came from Ujiji to say one of the party at
+Kasongo's reports that a marauding party went thence to the island of
+Bazula north of them. They ferried them to an island, and in coming back
+they were assaulted by the islanders in turn. They speared two in canoes
+shoving off, and the rest, panic-struck, took to the water, and
+thirty-five were slain. It was a just punishment, and shows what the
+Manyuema can do, if aroused to right their wrongs. No news of Baker's
+party; but Abed and Hassani are said to be well, and far down the
+Lualaba. Nassur Masudi is at Kasongo's, probably afraid by the Zula
+slaughter to go further. They will shut their own market against
+themselves. Lewale sends off letters to the Sultan to-day. I have no
+news to send, but am waiting wearily.
+
+_17th May, 1872._--Ailing. Making cheeses for the journey: good, but
+sour rather, as the milk soon turns in this climate, and we don't use
+rennet, but allow the milk to coagulate of itself, and it does thicken
+in half a day.
+
+_18th-19th May, 1872._--One of Dugumbe's men came to-day from Ujiji. He
+confirms the slaughter of Matereka's people, but denies that of
+Dugumbe's men. They went to Lomame about eleven days west, and found it
+to be about the size of Luamo; it comes from a Lake, and goes to
+Lualaba, near the Kisingite, a cataract. Dugumbe then sent his people
+down Lualaba, where much ivory is to be obtained. They secured a great
+deal of copper--1000 thick bracelets--on the south-west of Nyangwe, and
+some ivory, but not so much as they desired. No news of Abed. Lomame
+water is black, and black scum comes up in it.
+
+_20th May, 1872._--Better. Very cold winds. The cattle of the Batusi
+were captured by the Arabs to prevent them going off with the Baganda:
+my four amongst them. I sent over for them and they were returned this
+morning. Thirty-five of Mohamad's slaves died of small-pox.
+
+_21st May, 1872._--The genuine Africans of this region have flattened
+nose-bridges; the higher grades of the tribes have prominent
+nose-bridges, and are on this account greatly admired by the Arabs. The
+Batusi here, the Balunda of Casembe, and Itawa of Nsama, and many
+Manyuema have straight noses, but every now and then you come to
+districts in which the bridgeless noses give the air of the low English
+bruiser class, or faces inclining to King Charles the Second's spaniels.
+The Arab progeny here have scanty beards, and many grow to a very great
+height--tall, gaunt savages; while the Muscatees have prominent
+nose-bridges, good beards, and are polite and hospitable.
+
+I wish I had some of the assurance possessed by others, but I am
+oppressed with the apprehension that after all it may turn out that I
+have been following the Congo; and who would risk being put into a
+cannibal pot, and converted into black man for it?
+
+_22nd May, 1872._--Baganga are very black, with a tinge of copper colour
+in some. Bridgeless noses all.
+
+_23rd May, 1872._--There seems but little prospect of Christianity
+spreading by ordinary means among Mohamadans. Their pride is a great
+obstacle, and is very industriously nurtured by its votaries. No new
+invention or increase of power on the part of Christians seems to
+disturb the self-complacent belief that ultimately all power and
+dominion in this world will fall into the hands of Moslems. Mohamad will
+appear at last in glory, with all his followers saved by him. When Mr.
+Stanley's Arab boy from Jerusalem told the Arab bin Saleh that he was a
+Christian, he was asked, "Why so, don't you know that all the world will
+soon be Mohamadan? Jerusalem is ours; all the world is ours, and in a
+short time we shall overcome all." Theirs are great expectations!
+
+A family of ten Whydah birds _(Vidua purpurea)_ come to the
+pomegranate-trees in our yard. The eight young ones, full-fledged, are
+fed by the dam, as young pigeons are. The food is brought up from the
+crop without the bowing and bending of the pigeon. They chirrup briskly
+for food: the dam gives most, while the redbreasted cock gives one or
+two, and then knocks the rest away.
+
+_24th May, 1872._--Speke at Kasenge islet inadvertently made a general
+statement thus: "The mothers of these savage people have infinitely less
+affection than many savage beasts of my acquaintance. I have seen a
+mother bear, galled by frequent shots, obstinately meet her death by
+repeatedly returning under fire whilst endeavouring to rescue her young
+from the grasp of intruding men. But here, for a simple loin-cloth or
+two, human mothers eagerly exchanged their little offspring, delivering
+them into perpetual bondage to my Beluch soldiers."--_Speke_, pp. 234,5.
+For the sake of the little story of "a bear mother," Speke made a
+general assertion on a very small and exceptional foundation. Frequent
+inquiries among the most intelligent and far-travelled Arabs failed to
+find confirmation of this child-selling, except in the very rare case of
+a child cutting the upper front teeth before the under, and because this
+child is believed to be "moiko" (_unlucky_), and certain to bring death
+into the family. It is called an Arab child, and sold to the first Arab,
+or even left at his door. This is the only case the Arabs know of
+child-selling. Speke had only two Beluch soldiers with him, and the idea
+that they loaded themselves with infants, at once stamps the tale as
+fabulous. He may have seen one sold, an extremely rare and exceptional
+case; but the inferences drawn are just like that of the Frenchman who
+thought the English so partial to suicide in November, that they might
+be seen suspended from trees in the common highways.
+
+In crossing Tanganyika three several times I was detained at the islet
+Kasenge about ten weeks in all. On each occasion Arab traders were
+present, all eager to buy slaves, but none were offered, and they
+assured me that they had never seen the habit alleged to exist by Speke,
+though they had heard of the "unlucky" cases referred to. Everyone has
+known of poor little foundlings in England, but our mothers are not
+credited with less affection than she-bears.
+
+I would say to missionaries, Come on, brethren, to the real heathen. You
+have no idea how brave you are till you try. Leaving the coast tribes,
+and devoting yourselves heartily to the savages, as they are called, you
+will find, with some drawbacks and wickednesses, a very great deal to
+admire and love. Many statements made about them require confirmation.
+You will never see women selling their infants: the Arabs never did, nor
+have I. An assertion of the kind was made by mistake.
+
+Captive children are often sold, but not by their mothers. Famine
+sometimes reduces fathers to part with them, but the selling of
+children, as a general practice, is quite unknown, and, as Speke put it,
+quite a mistake.
+
+_25th and 26th May, 1872._--Cold weather. Lewale sends for all Arabs to
+make a grand assault, as it is now believed that Mirambo is dead, and
+only his son, with few people, remains.
+
+Two Whydah birds, after their nest was destroyed several times, now try
+again in another pomegranate-tree in the yard. They put back their eggs,
+as they have the power to do, and build again.
+
+The trout has the power of keeping back the ova when circumstances are
+unfavourable to their deposit. She can quite absorb the whole, but
+occasionally the absorbents have too much to do; the ovarium, and
+eventually the whole abdomen, seems in a state of inflammation, as when
+they are trying to remove a mortified human limb; and the poor fish,
+feeling its strength leaving it, true to instinct, goes to the entrance
+to the burn where it ought to have spawned, and, unable to ascend, dies.
+The defect is probably the want of the aid of a milter.
+
+_27th May, 1872._--Another pair of the kind (in which the cock is
+redbreasted) had ten chickens, also rebuilds afresh. The red cock-bird
+feeds all the brood. Each little one puts his head on one side as he
+inserts his bill, chirruping briskly, and bothering him. The young ones
+lift up a feather as a child would a doll, and invite others to do the
+same, in play. So, too, with another pair. The cock skips from side to
+side with a feather in his bill, and the hen is pleased: nature is full
+of enjoyment. Near Kasanganga's I saw boys shooting locusts that settled
+on the ground with little bows and arrows.
+
+Cock Whydah bird died in the night. The brood came and chirruped to it
+for food, and tried to make it feed them, as if not knowing death!
+
+A wagtail dam refused its young a caterpillar till it had been
+killed--she ran away from it, but then gave it when ready to be
+swallowed. The first smile of an infant with its toothless gums is one
+of the pleasantest sights in nature. It is innocence claiming kinship,
+and asking to be loved in its helplessness.
+
+_28th May, 1872._--Many parts of this interior land present most
+inviting prospects for well-sustained efforts of private benevolence.
+Karague, for instance, with its intelligent friendly chief Rumainyika
+(Speke's Rumanika), and Bouganda, with its teeming population, rain, and
+friendly chief, who could easily be swayed by an energetic prudent
+missionary. The evangelist must not depend on foreign support other
+than an occasional supply of beads and calico; coffee is indigenous, and
+so is sugar-cane. When detained by ulcerated feet in Manyuema I made
+sugar by pounding the cane in the common wooden mortar of the country,
+squeezing out the juice very hard and boiling it till thick; the defect
+it had was a latent acidity, for which I had no lime, and it soon all
+fermented. I saw sugar afterwards at Ujiji made in the same way, and
+that kept for months. Wheat and rice are cultivated by the Arabs in all
+this upland region; the only thing a missionary needs in order to secure
+an abundant supply is to follow the Arab advice as to the proper season
+for sowing. Pomegranates, guavas, lemons and oranges are abundant in
+Unyanyembe; mangoes flourish, and grape vines are beginning to be
+cultivated; papaws grow everywhere. Onions, radishes, pumpkins and
+watermelons prosper, and so would most European vegetables, if the
+proper seasons were selected for planting, and the most important point
+attended to in bringing the seeds. These must never be soldered in tins
+or put in close boxes; a process of sweating takes place when they are
+confined, as in a box or hold of the ship, and the power of vegetating
+is destroyed, but garden seeds put up in common brown paper, and hung in
+the cabin on the voyage, and not exposed to the direct rays of the sun
+afterwards, I have found to be as good as in England.
+
+It would be a sort of Robinson Crusoe life, but with abundant materials
+for surrounding oneself with comforts, and improving the improvable
+among the natives. Clothing would require but small expense: four suits
+of strong tweed served me comfortably for five years. Woollen clothing
+is the best; if all wool, it wears long and prevents chills. The
+temperature here in the beginning of winter ranges from 62 deg. to 75 deg. Fahr.
+In summer it seldom goes above 84 deg., as the country generally is from
+3600 to 4000 feet high. Gently undulating plains with outcropping
+tree-covered granite hills on the ridges and springs in valleys will
+serve as a description of the country.
+
+_29th May, 1872._--Halima ran away in a quarrel with Ntaoeka: I went
+over to Sultan bin Ali and sent a note after her, but she came back of
+her own accord, and only wanted me to come outside and tell her to
+enter. I did so, and added, "You must not quarrel again." She has been
+extremely good ever since I got her from Katombo or Moene-mokaia: I
+never had to reprove her once. She is always very attentive and clever,
+and never stole, nor would she allow her husband to steal. She is the
+best spoke in the wheel; this her only escapade is easily forgiven, and
+I gave her a warm cloth for the cold, by way of assuring her that I had
+no grudge against her. I shall free her, and buy her a house and garden
+at Zanzibar, when we get there.[20] Smokes or haze begins, and birds,
+stimulated by the cold, build briskly.
+
+_30th May, 1872, Sunday._--Sent over to Sultan bin Ali, to write another
+note to Lewale, to say first note not needed.
+
+_31st May, 1872._--The so-called Arab war with Mirambo drags its slow
+length along most wearily. After it is over then we shall get Banyamwezi
+pagazi in abundance. It is not now known whether Mirambo is alive or
+not: some say that he died long ago, and his son keeps up his state
+instead.
+
+In reference to this Nile source I have been kept in perpetual doubt and
+perplexity. I know too much to be positive. Great Lualaba, or Lualubba,
+as Manyuema say, may turn out to be the Congo and Nile, a shorter river
+after all--the fountains flowing north and south seem in favour of its
+being the Nile. Great westing is in favour of the Congo. It would be
+comfortable to be positive like Baker. "Every drop from the passing
+shower to the roaring mountain torrent must fall into Albert Lake, a
+giant at its birth." How soothing to be positive.
+
+_1st June, 1872._--Visited by Jemadar Hamees from Katanga, who gives the
+following information.
+
+UNYANYEMBE, _Tuesday_.--Hamees bin Jumaadarsabel, a Beluch, came here
+from Katanga to-day. He reports that the three Portuguese traders, Jao,
+Domasiko, and Domasho, came to Katanga from Matiamvo. They bought
+quantities of ivory and returned: they were carried in Mashilahs[21] by
+slaves. This Hamees gave them pieces of gold from the rivulet there
+between the two copper or malachite hills from which copper is dug. He
+says that Tipo Tipo is now at Katanga, and has purchased much ivory from
+Kayomba or Kayombo in Rua. He offers to guide me thither, going first to
+Merere's, where Amran Masudi has now the upper hand, and Merere offers
+to pay all the losses he has caused to Arabs and others. Two letters
+were sent by the Portuguese to the East Coast, one is in Amran's hands.
+Hamees Wodin Tagh is alive and well. These Portuguese went nowhere from
+Katanga, so that they have not touched the sources of the Nile, for
+which I am thankful.
+
+Tipo Tipo has made friends with Merosi, the Monyamweze headman at
+Katanga, by marrying his daughter, and has formed the plan of assaulting
+Casembe in conjunction with him because Casembe put six of Tipo Tipo's
+men to death. He will now be digging gold at Katanga till this man
+returns with gunpowder.
+
+[Many busy calculations are met with here which are too involved to be
+given in detail. At one point we see a rough conjecture as to the length
+of the road through Fipa.]
+
+On looking at the projected route by Merere's I seethat it will be a
+saving of a large angle into Fipa = 350 into Basango country S.S.W. or
+S. and by W., this comes into Lat. 10' S., and from this W.S.W. 400' to
+Long. of Katanga, skirting Bangweolo S. shore in 12 deg. S. = the whole
+distance = 750', say 900'.
+
+[Further on we see that he reckoned on his work occupying him till
+1874.]
+
+If Stanley arrived the 1st of May at Zanzibar:--allow = 20 days to get
+men and settle with them = May 20th, men leave Zanzibar 22nd of May =
+now 1st of June.
+
+    On the road may be                      10 days
+    Still to come 30 days, June             30   "
+                                            --
+    Ought to arrive 10th or 15th of July    40   "
+
+14th of June = Stanley being away now 3 months; say he left Zanzibar
+24th of May = at Aden 1st of June = Suez 8th of June, near Malta 14th of
+June.
+
+Stanley's men may arrive in July next. Then engage pagazi half a month =
+August, 5 months of this year will remain for journey, the whole of 1873
+will be swallowed up in work, but in February or March, 1874, please the
+Almighty Disposer of events, I shall complete my task and retire.
+
+_2nd June, 1872._--A second crop here, as in Angola. The lemons and
+pomegranates are flowering and putting out young fruits anew, though the
+crops of each have just been gathered. Wheat planted a month ago is now
+a foot high, and in three months will be harvested. The rice and dura
+are being reaped, and the hoes are busy getting virgin land ready.
+Beans, and Madagascar underground beans, voandzeia and ground-nuts are
+ripe now. Mangoes are formed; the weather feels cold, min. 62 deg., max.
+74 deg., and stimulates the birds to pair and build, though they are of
+broods scarcely weaned from being fed by their parents. Bees swarm and
+pass over us. Sky clear, with fleecy clouds here and there.
+
+_7th June, 1872._--Sultan bin Ali called. He says that the path by Fipa
+is the best, it has plenty of game, and people are friendly.[22] By
+going to Amran I should get into the vicinity of Merere, and possibly be
+detained, as the country is in a state of war. The Beluch would
+naturally wish to make a good thing of me, as he did of Speke. I gave
+him a cloth and arranged the Sungomaze beads, but the box and beads
+weigh 140 lbs., or two men's loads. I visited Lewale. Heard of Baker
+going to Unyoro Water, Lake Albert. Lewale praises the road by
+Moeneyungo and Merere, and says he will give a guide, but he never went
+that way.
+
+_10th June, 1872._--Othman, our guide from Ujiji hither, called to-day,
+and says positively that the way by Fipa is decidedly the shortest and
+easiest: there is plenty of game, and the people are all friendly. He
+reports that Mirambo's headman, Merungwe, was assaulted and killed, and
+all his food, cattle, and grain used. Mirambo remains alone. He has, it
+seems, inspired terror in the Arab and Banyamwezi mind by his charms,
+and he will probably be allowed to retreat north by flight, and the war
+for a season close; if so, we shall get plenty of Banyamwezi pagazi, and
+be off, for which I earnestly long and pray.
+
+_13th June, 1872._--Sangara, one of Mr. Stanley's men, returned from
+Bagamoio, and reports that my caravan is at Ugogo. He arrived to-day,
+and reports that Stanley and the American Consul acted like good
+fellows, and soon got a party of over fifty off, as he heard while at
+Bagamoio, and he left. The main body, he thinks, are in Ugogo. Hecame
+on with the news, but the letters were not delivered to him. I do most
+fervently thank the good Lord of all for His kindness to me through
+these gentlemen. The men will come here about the end of this month.
+Bombay happily pleaded sickness as an excuse for not re-engaging, as
+several others have done. He saw that I got a clear view of his
+failings, and he could not hope to hoodwink me.
+
+After Sangara came, I went over to Kukuru to see what the Lewale had
+received, but he was absent at Tabora. A great deal of shouting, firing
+of guns, and circumgyration by the men who had come from the war just
+outside the stockade of Nkisiwa (which is surrounded by a hedge of dark
+euphorbia and stands in a level hollow) was going on as we descended the
+gentle slope towards it. Two heads had been put up as trophies in the
+village, and it was asserted that Marukwe, a chief man of Mirambo, had
+been captured at Uvinza, and his head would soon come too. It actually
+did come, and was put up on a pole.
+
+I am most unfeignedly thankful that Stanley and Webb have acted nobly.
+
+_14th June, 1872._--On 22nd June Stanley was 100 days gone: he must be
+in London now.
+
+Seyed bin Mohamad Margibbe called to say that he was going off towards
+Katanga to-morrow by way of Amran. I feel inclined to go by way of Fipa
+rather, though I should much like to visit Merere. By the bye, he says
+too that the so-called Portuguese had filed teeth, and are therefore
+Mambarre.
+
+_15th June, 1872._--Lewale doubts Sangara on account of having brought
+no letters. Nothing can be believed in this land unless it is in black
+and white, and but little even then; the most circumstantial details are
+often mere figments of the brain. The one half one hears may safely be
+called false, and the other half doubtful or _not proven._
+
+Sultan bin Ali doubts Sangara's statements also, but says, "Let us wait
+and see the men arrive, to confirm or reject them." I incline to belief,
+because he says that he did not see the men, but heard of them at
+Bagamoio.
+
+_16th June, 1872._--Nsare chief, Msalala, came selling from Sakuma on
+the north--a jocular man, always a favourite with the ladies. He offered
+a hoe as a token of friendship, but I bought it, as we are, I hope, soon
+going off, and it clears the tent floor and ditch round it in wet
+weather.
+
+Mirambo made a sortie against a headman in alliance with the Arabs, and
+was quite successful, which shows that he is not so much reduced as
+reports said.
+
+Boiling points to-day about 9 A.M. There is a full degree of difference
+between boiling in an open pot and in Casella's apparatus.
+
+    205 deg..1 open pot  }
+                     }  69 deg. air.
+    206 deg..1 Casella   }
+
+About 200 Baguha came here, bringing much ivory and palm oil for sale
+because there is no market nor goods at Ujiji for the produce. A few
+people came also from Buganda, bringing four tusks and an invitation to
+Seyed Burghash to send for two housefuls of ivory which Mteza has
+collected.
+
+_18th June, 1872._--Sent over a little quinine to Sultan bin Ali--he is
+ailing of fever--and a glass of "Moiko" the shameful!
+
+The Ptolemaic map defines people according to their food. The
+Elephantophagi, the Struthiophagi, the Ichthyophagi, and Anthropophagi.
+If we followed the same sort of classification our definition would be
+the drink, thus:--the tribe of stout-guzzlers, the roaring
+potheen-fuddlers, the whisky-fishoid-drinkers, the vin-ordinaire
+bibbers, the lager-beer-swillers, and an outlying tribe of the brandy
+cocktail persuasion.
+
+[His keen enjoyment in noticing the habits of animals and birds serves
+a good purpose whilst waiting wearily and listening to disputed rumours
+concerning the Zanzibar porters. The little orphan birds seem to get on
+somehow or other; perhaps the Englishman's eye was no bad protection,
+and his pity towards the fledglings was a good lesson, we will hope, to
+the children around the Tembe at Kwihara--]
+
+_19th June, 1872._--Whydahs, though full fledged, still gladly take a
+feed from their dam, putting down the breast to the ground and cocking
+up the bill and chirruping in the most engaging manner and winning way
+they know. She still gives them a little, but administers a friendly
+shove off too. They all pick up feathers or grass, and hop from side to
+side of their mates, as if saying, "Come, let us play at making little
+houses." The wagtail has shaken her young quite off, and has a new nest.
+She warbles prettily, very much like a canary, and is extremely active
+in catching flies, but eats crumbs of bread-and-milk too. Sun-birds
+visit the pomegranate flowers and eat insects therein too, as well as
+nectar. The young whydah birds crouch closely together at night for
+heat. They look like a woolly ball on a branch. By day they engage in
+pairing and coaxing each other. They come to the same twig every night.
+Like children they try and lift heavy weights of feathers above their
+strength.
+
+[How fully he hoped to reach the hill from which he supposed the Nile to
+flow is shown in the following words written at this time:--]
+
+I trust in Providence still to help me. I know the four rivers Zambesi,
+Kafue, Luapula, and Lomame, their fountains must exist in one region.
+
+An influential Muganda is dead of dysentery: no medicine had any effect
+in stopping the progress of the disease. This is much colder than his
+country. Another is blind from ophthalmia.
+
+Great hopes are held that the war which has lasted a full year will now
+be brought to a close, and Mirambo either be killed or flee. As he is
+undoubtedly an able man, his flight may involve much trouble and
+guerilla warfare.
+
+Clear cold weather, and sickly for those who have only thin clothing,
+and not all covered.
+
+The women work very hard in providing for their husbands' kitchens. The
+rice is the most easily prepared grain: three women stand round a huge
+wooden mortar with pestles in their hands, a gallon or so of the
+unhusked rice--called Mopunga here and paddy in India--is poured in, and
+the three heavy pestles worked in exact time; each jerks up her body as
+she lifts the pestle and strikes it into the mortar with all her might,
+lightening the labour with some wild ditty the while, though one hears
+by the strained voice that she is nearly out of breath. When the husks
+are pretty well loosened, the grain is put into a large plate-shaped
+basket and tossed so as to bring the chaff to one side, the vessel is
+then heaved downwards and a little horizontal motion given to it which
+throws the refuse out; the partially cleared grain is now returned to
+the mortar, again pounded and cleared of husks, and a semicircular toss
+of the vessel sends all the remaining unhusked grain to one side, which
+is lifted out with the hand, leaving the chief part quite clean: they
+certainly work hard and well. The maize requires more labour by far: it
+is first pounded to remove the outer scales from the grain, then steeped
+for three days in water, then pounded, the scales again separated by the
+shallow-basket tossings, then pounded fine, and the fine white flour
+separated by the basket from certain hard rounded particles, which are
+cooked as a sort of granular porridge--"Mtyelle."
+
+When Ntaoeka chose to follow us rather than go to the coast, I did not
+like to have a fine-looking woman among us unattached, and proposed that
+she should marry one of my three worthies, Chuma, Gardner, or Mabruki,
+but she smiled at the idea. Chuma was evidently too lazy ever to get a
+wife; the other two were contemptible in appearance, and she has a good
+presence and is buxom. Chuma promised reform: "he had been lazy, he
+admitted, because he had no wife." Circumstances led to the other women
+wishing Ntaoeka married, and on my speaking to her again she consented.
+I have noticed her ever since working hard from morning to night: the
+first up in the cold mornings, making fire and hot water, pounding,
+carrying water, wood, sweeping, cooking.
+
+_21st June, 1872._--No jugglery or sleight-of-hand, as was recommended
+to Napoleon III., would have any effect in the civilization of the
+Africans; they have too much good sense for that. Nothing brings them to
+place thorough confidence in Europeans but a long course of well-doing.
+They believe readily in the supernatural as effecting any new process or
+feat of skill, for it is part of their original faith to ascribe
+everything above human agency to unseen spirits. Goodness or
+unselfishness impresses their minds more than any kind of skill or
+power. They say, "You have different hearts from ours; all black men's
+hearts are bad, but yours are good." The prayer to Jesus for a new heart
+and right spirit at once commends itself as appropriate. Music has great
+influence on those who have musical ears, and often leads to conversion.
+
+[Here and there he gives more items of intelligence from the war which
+afford a perfect representation of the rumours and contradictions which
+harass the listener in Africa, especially if he is interested, as
+Livingstone was, in the re-establishment of peace between the
+combatants.]
+
+Lewale is off to the war with Mirambo; he is to finish it now! A
+continuous fusilade along his line of march west will expend much
+powder, but possibly get the spirits up. If successful, we shall get
+Banyamwezi pagazi in numbers.
+
+Mirambo is reported to have sent 100 tusks and 100 slaves towards the
+coast to buy gunpowder. If true, the war is still far from being
+finished; but falsehood is fashionable.
+
+_26th June, 1872._--Went over to Kwikuru and engaged Mohamad bin Seyde
+to speak to Nkasiwa for pagazi; he wishes to go himself. The people sent
+by Mirambo to buy gunpowder in Ugogo came to Kitambi, he reported the
+matter to Nkasiwa that they had come, and gave them pombe. When Lewale
+heard it, he said, "Why did Kitambi not kill them; he is a partaker in
+Mirambo's guilt?" A large gathering yesterday at M'futu to make an
+assault on the last stockade in hostility.
+
+[A few notes in another pocket-book are placed under this date. Thus:--]
+
+_24th June, 1872._--A continuous covering of forests is a sign of a
+virgin country. The earlier seats of civilization are bare and treeless
+according to Humboldt. The civilization of the human race sets bounds to
+the increase of forests. It is but recently that sylvan decorations
+rejoice the eyes of the Northern Europeans. The old forests attest the
+youthfulness of our civilization. The aboriginal woods of Scotland are
+but recently cut down. (Hugh Miller's _Sketches_, p. 7.)
+
+Mosses often evidence the primitive state of things at the time of the
+Roman invasion. Roman axe like African, a narrow chisel-shaped tool,
+left sticking in the stumps.
+
+The medical education has led me to a continual tendency to suspend the
+judgment. What a state of blessedness it would have been had I possessed
+the dead certainty of the homoeopathic persuasion, and as soon as I
+found the Lakes Bangweolo, Moero, and Kamolondo pouring out their waters
+down the great central valley, bellowed out, "Hurrah! Eureka!" and gone
+home in firm and honest belief that I had settled it, and no mistake.
+Instead of that I am even now not at all "cock-sure" that I have not
+been following down what may after all be the Congo.
+
+_25th June, 1872._--Send over to Tabora to try and buy a cow from
+Basakuma, or northern people, who have brought about 100 for sale. I got
+two oxen for a coil of brass wire and seven dotis of cloth.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[17] This elephant was subsequently sent by Dr. Kirk to Sir Philip
+Wodehouse, Governor of Bombay. When in Zanzibar it was perfectly tame.
+We understand it is now in the possession of Sir Solar Jung, to whom
+it was presented by Sir Philip Wodehouse.--Ed.
+
+[18] Lewale appears to be the title by which the Governor of the town
+is called.
+
+[19] Judges xviii.
+
+[20] Halima followed the Doctor's remains to Zanzibar. It does seem
+hard that his death leaves her long services entirely unrequited.--ED.
+
+[21] The Portuguese name for palanquin.
+
+[22] It will be seen that this was fully confirmed afterwards by
+Livingstone's men: the fact may be of importance to future
+travellers.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old
+    friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of
+    missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors.
+    Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern
+    Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable
+    piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The
+    Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower.
+
+
+[And now the long-looked for letters came in by various hands, but with
+little regularity. It is not here necessary to refer to the withdrawal
+of the Livingstone Relief Expedition which took place as soon as Mr.
+Stanley confronted Lieutenant Dawson on his way inland. Suffice it to
+say that the various members of this Expedition, of which his second
+son, Mr. Oswell Livingstone, was one, had already quitted Africa for
+England when these communications reached Unyanyembe.]
+
+_27th June, 1872._--Received a letter from Oswell yesterday, dated
+Bagamoio, 14th May, which awakened thankfulness, anxiety, and deep
+sorrow.
+
+_28th June, 1872._--Went over to Kwikuru yesterday to speak about
+pagazi. Nkasiwa was off at M'futu to help in the great assault on
+Mirambo, which is hoped to be the last. But Mohamad bin Seyed promised
+to arrange with the chief on his return. I was told that Nkasiwa has the
+head of Morukwe in a kirindo or band-box, made of the inner bark of a
+tree, and when Morukwe's people have recovered they will come and redeem
+it with ivory and slaves, and bury it in his grave, as they did the head
+of Ishbosheth in Abner's grave in Hebron.
+
+Dugumbe's man, who went off to Ujiji to bring ivory, returned to-day,
+having been attacked by robbers of Mirambo. The pagazi threw down all
+their loads and ran; none were killed, but they lost all.
+
+_29th June, 1872._--Received a packet from Sheikh bin Nasib containing a
+letter for him and one 'Pall Mall Gazette,' one Overland Mail and four
+Punches. Provision has been made for my daughter by Her Majesty's
+Government of 300_l._, but I don't understand the matter clearly.
+
+_2nd July, 1872._--Make up a packet for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Webb, of
+Zanzibar: explain to Kirk, and beg him to investigate and punish, and
+put blame on right persons. Write Sir Bartle Frere and Agnes: send large
+packet of astronomical observations and sketch map to Sir Thomas Maclear
+by a native, Suleiman.
+
+_3rd July, 1872._--Received a note from Oswell, written in April last,
+containing the sad intelligence of Sir Roderick's departure from among
+us. Alas! alas! this is the only time in my life I ever felt inclined to
+use the word, and it bespeaks a sore heart: the best friend I ever
+had--true, warm, and abiding--he loved me more than I deserved: he looks
+down on me still. I must feel resigned to the loss by the Divine Will,
+but still I regret and mourn.
+
+Wearisome waiting, this; and yet the men cannot be here before the
+middle or end of this month. I have been sorely let and hindered in this
+journey, but it may have been all for the best. I will trust in Him to
+whom I commit my way.
+
+_5th July, 1872._--Weary! weary!
+
+_7th July, 1872._--Waiting wearily here, and hoping that the good and
+loving Father of all may favour me, and help me to finish my work
+quickly and well.
+
+Temperature at 6 A.M. 61 deg.; feels cold. Winds blow regularly from the
+east; if it changes to N.W. brings a thick mantle of cold grey clouds. A
+typhoon did great damage at Zanzibar, wrecking ships and destroying
+cocoa-nuts, carafu, and all fruits: happened five days after Seyed
+Burghash's return from Mecca.
+
+At the Loangwa of Zumbo we came to a party of hereditary hippopotamus
+hunters, called Makembwe or Akombwe. They follow no other occupation,
+but when their game is getting scanty at one spot they remove to some
+other part of the Loangwa, Zambesi, or Shire, and build temporary huts
+on an island, where their women cultivate patches: the flesh of the
+animals they kill is eagerly exchanged by the more settled people for
+grain. They are not stingy, and are everywhere welcome guests. I never
+heard of any fraud in dealing, or that they had been guilty of an
+outrage on the poorest: their chief characteristic is their courage.
+Their hunting is the bravest thing I ever saw. Each canoe is manned by
+two men; they are long light craft, scarcely half an inch in thickness,
+about eighteen inches beam, and from eighteen to twenty feet long. They
+are formed for speed, and shaped somewhat like our racing boats. Each
+man uses a broad short paddle, and as they guide the canoe slowly down
+stream to a sleeping hippopotamus not a single ripple is raised on the
+smooth water; they look as if holding in their breath, and communicate
+by signs only. As they come near the prey the harpooner in the bow lays
+down his paddle and rises slowly up, and there he stands erect,
+motionless, and eager, with the long-handled weapon poised at arm's
+length above his head, till coming close to the beast he plunges it with
+all his might in towards the heart. During this exciting feat he has to
+keep his balance exactly. His neighbour in the stern at once backs his
+paddle, the harpooner sits down, seizes his paddle, and backs too to
+escape: the animal surprised and wounded seldom returns the attack at
+this stage of the hunt. The next stage, however, is full of danger.
+
+The barbed blade of the harpoon is secured by a long and very strong
+rope wound round the handle: it is intended to come out of its socket,
+and while the iron head is firmly fixed in the animal's body the rope
+unwinds and the handle floats on the surface. The hunter next goes to
+the handle and hauls on the rope till he knows that he is right over the
+beast: when he feels the line suddenly slacken he is prepared to deliver
+another harpoon the instant that hippo.'s enormous jaws appear with a
+terrible grunt above the water. The backing by the paddles is again
+repeated, but hippo. often assaults the canoe, crunches it with his
+great jaws as easily as a pig would a bunch of asparagus, or shivers it
+with a kick by his hind foot. Deprived of their canoe the gallant
+comrades instantly dive and swim to the shore under water: they say that
+the infuriated beast looks for them on the surface, and being below they
+escape his sight. When caught by many harpoons the crews of several
+canoes seize the handles and drag him hither and thither till, weakened
+by loss of blood, he succumbs.
+
+This hunting requires the greatest skill, courage, and nerve that can be
+conceived--double armed and threefold brass, or whatever the AEneid says.
+The Makombwe are certainly a magnificent race of men, hardy and active
+in their habits, and well fed, as the result of their brave exploits;
+every muscle is well developed, and though not so tall as some tribes,
+their figures are compact and finely proportioned: being a family
+occupation it has no doubt helped in the production of fine physical
+development. Though all the people among whom they sojourn would like
+the profits they secure by the flesh and curved tusks, and no game is
+preserved, I have met with no competitors to them except the Wayeiye of
+Lake Ngami and adjacent rivers.
+
+I have seen our dragoon officers perform fencing and managing their
+horses so dexterously that every muscle seemed trained to its fullest
+power and efficiency, and perhaps had they been brought up as Makombwe
+they might have equalled their daring and consummate skill: but we have
+no sport, except perhaps Indian tiger shooting, requiring the courage
+and coolness this enterprise demands. The danger may be appreciated if
+one remembers that no sooner is blood shed in the water than all the
+crocodiles below are immediately drawn up stream by the scent, and are
+ready to act the part of thieves in a London crowd, or worse.
+
+_8th July, 1872._--At noon, wet bulb 66 deg., dry 74 deg.. These observations
+are taken from thermometers hung four feet from the ground on the cool
+side (south) of the house, and beneath an earthen roof with complete
+protection from wind and radiation. Noon known by the shadows being
+nearly perpendicular. To show what is endured by a traveller, the
+following register is given of the heat on a spot, four feet from the
+ground, protected from the wind by a reed fence, but exposed to the
+sun's rays, slanting a little.
+
+
+    Noon.   Wet Bulb 78 deg.   Dry Bulb 102 deg.
+    2 P.M.           77 deg.             99 deg.
+    3 P.M.           78 deg.            102 deg.
+    4 P.M.           72 deg.             88 deg. (Agreeable marching now.)
+    6 P.M.           66 deg.             77 deg.
+
+_9th July, 1872._--Clear and cold the general weather: cold is
+penetrating. War forces have gone out of M'futu and built a camp. Fear
+of Mirambo rules them all: each one is nervously anxious not to die, and
+in no way ashamed to own it. The Arabs keep out of danger: "Better to
+sleep in a whole skin" is their motto.
+
+_Noon_.--Spoke to Singeri about the missionary reported to be coming:
+he seems to like the idea of being taught and opening up the country by
+way of the Nile. I told him that all the Arabs confirmed Mtesa's
+cruelties, and that his people were more to blame than he: it was guilt
+before God. In this he agreed fully, but said, "What Arab was killed?"
+meaning, if they did not suffer how can they complain?
+
+    6 A.M.  Wet Bulb 55 deg.   Dry Bulb  57 deg. min. 55 deg.
+    9 A.M.           74 deg.             82 deg.
+    Noon.            74 deg.             98 deg. (Now becomes too hot to march.)
+    3.30 P.M.        75 deg.             90 deg.
+
+_10th July, 1872._
+
+    6 A.M.           59 deg.             65 deg. min. 55 deg.
+    Noon.            67 deg.             77 deg. shady.
+    3 P.M.           69 deg.             81 deg. cloudy.
+    5 P.M.           65 deg.             75 deg. cloudy.
+
+_10th July, 1872._--No great difficulty would be encountered in
+establishing a Christian Mission a hundred miles or so from the East
+Coast. The permission of the Sultan of Zanzibar would be necessary,
+because all the tribes of any intelligence claim relationship, or have
+relations with him; the Banyamwezi even call themselves his subjects,
+and so do others. His permission would be readily granted, if
+respectfully applied for through the English Consul. The Suaheli, with
+their present apathy on religious matters, would be no obstacle. Care to
+speak politely, and to show kindness to them, would not be lost labour
+in the general effect of the Mission on the country, but all discussion
+on the belief of the Moslems should be avoided; they know little about
+it. Emigrants from Muscat, Persia, and India, who at present possess
+neither influence nor wealth, would eagerly seize any formal or
+offensive denial of the authority of their Prophet to fan their own
+bigotry, and arouse that of the Suaheli. A few now assume an air of
+superiority in matters of worship, and would fain take the place of
+Mullams or doctors of the law, by giving authoritative dicta as to the
+times of prayer; positions to be observed; lucky and unlucky days; using
+cabalistic signs; telling fortunes; finding from the Koran when an
+attack may be made on any enemy, &c.; but this is done only in the field
+with trading parties. At Zanzibar, the regular Mullams supersede them.
+
+No objection would be made to teaching the natives of the country to
+read their own languages in the Roman character. No Arab has ever
+attempted to teach them the Arabic-Koran, they are called _guma_, hard,
+or difficult as to religion. This is not wonderful, since the Koran is
+never translated, and a very extraordinary desire for knowledge would be
+required to sustain a man in committing to memory pages and chapters of,
+to him, unmeaning gibberish. One only of all the native chiefs,
+Monyumgo, has sent his children to Zanzibar to be taught to read and
+write the Koran; and he is said to possess an unusual admiration of such
+civilization as he has seen among the Arabs. To the natives, the chief
+attention of the Mission should be directed. It would not be desirable,
+or advisable, to refuse explanation to others; but I have avoided giving
+offence to intelligent Arabs, who have pressed me, asking if I believed
+in Mohamad by saying, "No I do not: I am a child of Jesus bin Miriam,"
+avoiding anything offensive in my tone, and often adding that Mohamad
+found their forefathers bowing down to trees and stones, and did good to
+them by forbidding idolatry, and teaching the worship of the only One
+God. This, they all know, and it pleases them to have it recognised.
+
+It might be good policy to hire a respectable Arab to engage free
+porters, and conduct the Mission to the country chosen, and obtain
+permission from the chief to build temporary houses. If this Arab were
+well paid, it might pave the way for employing others to bring supplies
+of goods and stores not produced in the country, as tea, coffee, sugar.
+The first porters had better all go back, save a couple or so, who have
+behaved especially well. Trust to the people among whom you live for
+general services, as bringing wood, water, cultivation, reaping, smith's
+work, carpenter's work, pottery, baskets, &c. Educated free blacks from
+a distance are to be avoided: they are expensive, and are too much of
+gentlemen for your work. You may in a few months raise natives who will
+teach reading to others better than they can, and teach you also much
+that the liberated never know. A cloth and some beads occasionally will
+satisfy them, while neither the food, the wages, nor the work will
+please those who, being brought from a distance, naturally consider
+themselves missionaries. Slaves also have undergone a process which has
+spoiled them for life; though liberated young, everything of childhood
+and opening life possesses an indescribable charm. It is so with our own
+offspring, and nothing effaces the fairy scenes then printed on the
+memory. Some of my liberados eagerly bought green calabashes and
+tasteless squash, with fine fat beef, because this trash was their early
+food; and an ounce of meat never entered their mouths. It seems
+indispensable that each Mission should raise its own native agency. A
+couple of Europeans beginning, and carrying on a Mission without a staff
+of foreign attendants, implies coarse country fare, it is true, but this
+would be nothing to those who, at home amuse themselves with fastings,
+vigils, &c. A great deal of power is thus lost in the Church. Fastings
+and vigils, without a special object in view, are time run to waste.
+They are made to minister to a sort of self-gratification, instead of
+being turned to account for the good of others. They are like groaning
+in sickness. Some people amuse themselves when ill with continuous
+moaning. The forty days of Lent might be annually spent in visiting
+adjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable hunger and thirst with a good
+grace. Considering the greatness of the object to be attained, men
+might go without sugar, coffee, tea, &c. I went from September 1866 to
+December 1868 without either. A trader, at Casembe's, gave me a dish
+cooked with honey, and it nauseated from its horrible sweetness, but at
+100 miles inland, supplies could be easily obtained.
+
+The expenses need not be large. Intelligent Arabs inform me that, in
+going from Zanzibar to Casembe's, only 3000 dollars' worth are required
+by a trader, say between 600_l._ or 700_l._, and he may be away three or
+more years; paying his way, giving presents to the chiefs, and filling
+200 or 300 mouths. He has paid for, say fifty muskets, ammunition,
+flints, and may return with 4000 lbs. of ivory, and a number of slaves
+for sale; all at an outlay of 600_l._ or 700_l._ With the experience I
+have gained now, I could do all I shall do in this expedition for a like
+sum, or at least for 1000_l._ less than it will actually cost me.
+
+_12th July, 1872._--Two men come from Syde bin Habib report fighting as
+going on at discreet distances against Mirambo.
+
+Sheikh But, son of Mohamad bin Saleh, is found guilty of stealing a tusk
+of 2-1/2 frasilahs from the Lewale. He has gone in disgrace to fight
+Mirambo: his father is disconsolate, naturally. Lewale has been
+merciful.
+
+When endeavouring to give some account of the slave-trade of East
+Africa, it was necessary to keep far within the truth, in order not to
+be thought guilty of exaggeration; but in sober seriousness the subject
+does not admit of exaggeration. To overdraw its evils is a simple
+impossibility. The sights I have seen, though common incidents of the
+traffic, are so nauseous that I always strive to drive them from memory.
+In the case of most disagreeable recollections I can succeed, in time,
+in consigning them to oblivion, but the slaving scenes come back
+unbidden, and make me start up at dead of night horrified by their
+vividness. To some this may appear weak and unphilosophical, since it is
+alleged that the whole human race has passed through the process of
+development. We may compare cannibalism to the stone age, and the times
+of slavery to the iron and bronze epochs--slavery is as natural a step
+in human development as from bronze to iron.
+
+Whilst speaking of the stone age I may add that in Africa I have never
+been fortunate enough to find one flint arrowhead or any other flint
+implement, though I had my eyes about me as diligently as any of my
+neighbours. No roads are made; no lands levelled; no drains digged; no
+quarries worked, nor any of the changes made on the earth's surface that
+might reveal fragments of the primitive manufacture of stone. Yet but
+little could be inferred from the negative evidence, were it not
+accompanied by the fact that flint does not exist in any part south of
+the equator. Quartz might have been used, but no remains exist, except
+the half-worn millstones, and stones about the size of oranges, used for
+chipping and making rough the nether millstone. Glazed pipes and
+earthenware used in smelting iron, show that iron was smelted in the
+remotest ages in Africa. These earthenware vessels, and fragments of
+others of a finer texture, were found in the delta of the Zambesi and in
+other parts in close association with fossil bones, which, on being
+touched by the tongue, showed as complete an absence of animal matter as
+the most ancient fossils known in Europe. They were the bones of
+animals, as hippopotami, water hogs, antelopes, crocodiles, identical
+with those now living in the country. These were the primitive fauna of
+Africa, and if vitrified iron from the prodigious number of broken
+smelting furnaces all over the country was known from the remotest
+times, the Africans seem to have had a start in the race, at a time when
+our progenitors were grubbing up flints to save a miserable existence by
+the game they might kill. Slave-trading seems to have been coeval with
+the knowledge of iron. The monuments of Egypt show that this curse has
+venerable antiquity. Some people say, "If so ancient, why try to stop
+an old established usage now?" Well, some believe that the affliction
+that befel the most ancient of all the patriarchs, Job, was small-pox.
+Why then stop the ravages of this venerable disease in London and New
+York by vaccination?
+
+But no one expects any benevolent efforts from those who cavil and carp
+at efforts made by governments and peoples to heal the enormous open
+sore of the world. Some profess that they would rather give "their mite"
+for the degraded of our own countrymen than to "niggers"! Verily it is
+"a mite," and they most often forget, and make a gift of it to
+themselves. It is almost an axiom that those who do most for the heathen
+abroad are most liberal for the heathen at home. It is to this class we
+turn with hope. With others arguments are useless, and the only answer I
+care to give is the remark of an English sailor, who, on seeing
+slave-traders actually at their occupation, said to his companion,
+"Shiver my timbers, mate, if the devil don't catch these fellows, we
+might as well have no devil at all."
+
+In conversing with a prince at Johanna, one of the Comoro islands lying
+off the north end of Madagascar, he took occasion to extol the wisdom of
+the Arabs in keeping strict watch over their wives. On suggesting that
+their extreme jealousy made them more like jailers than friends of their
+wives, or, indeed, that they thus reduced themselves to the level of the
+inferior animals, and each was like the bull of a herd and not like a
+reasonable man--"fuguswa"--and that they gave themselves a vast deal of
+trouble for very small profit; he asserted that the jealousy was
+reasonable because all women were bad, they could not avoid going
+astray. And on remarking that this might be the case with Arab women,
+but certainly did not apply to English women, for though a number were
+untrustworthy, the majority deserved all the confidence their husbands
+could place in them, he reiterated that women were universally bad. He
+did not believe that women ever would be good; and the English allowing
+their wives to gad about with faces uncovered, only showed their
+weakness, ignorance, and unwisdom.
+
+The tendency and spirit of the age are more and more towards the
+undertaking of industrial enterprises of such magnitude and skill as to
+require the capital of the world for their support and execution--as the
+Pacific Railroad, Suez Canal, Mont Cenis Tunnel, and railways in India
+and Western Asia, Euphrates Railroad, &c. The extension and use of
+railroads, steamships, telegraphs, break down nationalities and bring
+peoples geographically remote into close connection commercially and
+politically. They make the world one, and capital, like water, tends to
+a common level.
+
+[Geologists will be glad to find that the Doctor took pains to arrange
+his observations at this time in the following form.]
+
+A really enormous area of South Central Africa is covered with volcanic
+rocks, in which are imbedded angular fragments of older strata, possibly
+sandstone, converted into schist, which, though carried along in the
+molten mass, still retain impressions of plants of a low order, probably
+the lowest--Silurian--and distinct ripple marks and raindrops in which
+no animal markings have yet been observed. The fewness of the organic
+remains observed is owing to the fact that here no quarries are worked,
+no roads are made, and as we advance north the rank vegetation covers up
+everything. The only stone buildings in the country north of the Cape
+colony are the church and mission houses at Kuruman. In the walls there
+the fragments, with impressions of fossil leaves, have been broken
+through in the matrix, once a molten mass of lava. The area which this
+basalt covers extends from near the Vaal River in the south, to a point
+some sixty miles beyond the Victoria Falls, and the average breadth is
+about 150 miles. The space is at least 100,000 square miles. Sandstone
+rocks stand up in it at various points like islands, but all are
+metamorphosed, and branches have flowed off from the igneous sea into
+valleys and defiles, and one can easily trace the hardening process of
+the fire as less and less, till at the outer end of the stream the rocks
+are merely hardened. These branches equal in size all the rocks and
+hills that stand like islands, so that we are justified in assuming the
+area as at least 100,000 square miles of this basaltic sea.
+
+The molten mass seems to have flowed over in successive waves, and the
+top of each wave was covered with a dark vitreous scum carrying scoriae
+with angular fragments. This scum marks each successive overflow, as a
+stratum from twelve to eighteen inches or more in thickness. In one part
+sixty-two strata are revealed, but at the Victoria Falls (which are
+simply a rent) the basaltic rock is stratified as far as our eyes could
+see down the depth of 310 feet. This extensive sea of lava was probably
+sub-aerial, because bubbles often appear as coming out of the rock into
+the vitreous scum on the surface of each wave: in some cases they have
+broken and left circular rings with raised edges, peculiar to any
+boiling viscous fluid. In many cases they have cooled as round pustules,
+as if a bullet were enclosed; on breaking them the internal surface is
+covered with a crop of beautiful crystals of silver with their heads all
+directed to the centre of the bubble, which otherwise is empty.
+
+These bubbles in stone may be observed in the bed of the Kuruman River,
+eight or ten miles north of the village; and the mountain called
+"Amhan," west-north-west of the village, has all the appearance of
+having been an orifice through which the basalt boiled up as water or
+mud does in a geyser.
+
+The black basaltic mountains on the east of the Bamangwato, formerly
+called the Bakaa, furnish further evidence of the igneous eruptions
+being sub-aerial, for the basalt itself is columnar at many points, and
+at other points the tops of the huge crystals appear in groups, and the
+apices not flattened, as would have been the case had they been
+developed under the enormous pressure of an ocean. A few miles on their
+south a hot salt fountain boils forth and tells of interior heat.
+Another, far to the south-east, and of fresh water, tells the same tale.
+
+Subsequently to the period of gigantic volcanic action, the outflow of
+fresh lime-water from the bowels of the earth seems to have been
+extremely large. The land now so dry that one might wander in various
+directions (especially westwards, to the Kalahari), and perish for lack
+of the precious fluid as certainly as if he were in the interior of
+Australia, was once bisected in all directions by flowing streams and
+great rivers, whose course was mainly to the south. These river beds are
+still called by the natives "_melapo_" in the south, but in the north
+"_wadys_," both words meaning the same thing, "river beds in which no
+water ever now flows." To feed these a vast number of gushing fountains
+poured forth for ages a perennial supply. When the eye of the fountain
+is seen it is an oval or oblong orifice, the lower portion distinctly
+water worn, and there, by diminished size, showing that as ages elapsed
+the smaller water supply had a manifestly lesser erosive power. In the
+sides of the mountain Amhan, already mentioned, good specimens of these
+water-worn orifices still exist, and are inhabited by swarms of bees,
+whose hives are quite protected from robbers by the hardness of the
+basaltic rocks. The points on which the streams of water fell are
+hollowed by its action, and the space around which the water splashed is
+covered by calcareous tufa, deposited there by the evaporation of the
+sun.
+
+Another good specimen of the ancient fountains is in a cave near
+Kolobeng, called "_Lepelole_," a word by which the natives there
+sometimes designate the sea. The wearing power of the primeval waters is
+here easily traced in two branches--the upper or more ancient ending in
+the characteristic oval orifice, in which I deposited a Father Mathew's
+leaden temperance token: the lower branch is much the largest, as that
+by which the greatest amount of water flowed for a much longer period
+than the other. The cave Lepelole was believed to be haunted, and no one
+dared to enter till I explored it as a relief from more serious labour.
+The entrance is some eight or more feet high, and five or six wide, in
+reddish grey sandstone rock, containing in its substance banks of well
+rounded shingle. The whole range, with many of the adjacent hills on the
+south, bear evidence of the scorching to which the contiguity of the
+lava subjected them. In the hardening process the silica was sometimes
+sweated out of this rock, and it exists now as pretty efflorescences of
+well-shaped crystals. But not only does this range, which stands eight
+or ten miles north of Kolobeng, exhibit the effects of igneous action,
+it shows on its eastern slope the effects of flowing water, in a large
+pot-hole called Loee, which has the reputation of having given exit to all
+the animals in South Africa, and also to the first progenitors of the
+whole Bechuana race. Their footsteps attest the truth of this belief. I
+was profane enough to be sceptical, because the large footstep of the
+first man Matsieng was directed as if going into instead of out of this
+famous pot-hole. Other huge pot-holes are met with all over the country,
+and at heights on the slopes of the mountains far above the levels of
+the ancient rivers.
+
+Many fountains rose in the courses of the ancient river beds, and the
+outflow was always in the direction of the current of the parent stream.
+Many of these ancient fountains still contain water, and form the stages
+on a journey, but the primitive waters seem generally to have been laden
+with lime in solution: this lime was deposited in vast lakes, which are
+now covered with calcareous tufa. One enormous fresh-water lake, in
+which probably sported the Dyconodon, was let off when the remarkable
+rent was made in the basalt which now constitutes the Victoria Falls.
+Another seems to have gone to the sea when a similar fissure was made at
+the falls of the Orange River. It is in this calcareous tufa alone that
+fossil animal remains have yet been found. There are no marine
+limestones except in friths which the elevation of the west and east
+coasts have placed far inland in the Coanza and Somauli country, and
+these contain the same shells as now live in the adjacent seas.
+
+Antecedently to the river system, which seems to have been a great
+southern Nile flowing from the sources of the Zambesi away south to the
+Orange River, there existed a state of fluvial action of greater
+activity than any we see now: it produced prodigious beds of
+well-rounded shingle and gravel. It is impossible to form an idea of
+their extent. The Loangwa flows through the bed of an ancient lake,
+whose banks are sixty feet thick, of well-rounded shingle. The Zambesi
+flows above the Kebrabasa, through great beds of the same formation, and
+generally they are of hard crystalline rocks; and it is impossible to
+conjecture what the condition of the country was when the large
+pot-holes were formed up the hillsides, and the prodigious attrition
+that rounded the shingle was going on. The land does not seem to have
+been submerged, because marine limestones (save in the exceptional cases
+noted) are wanting; and torrents cutting across the ancient river beds
+reveal fresh-water shells identical with those that now inhabit its
+fresh waters. The calcareous tufa seems to be the most recent rock
+formed. At the point of junction of the great southern prehistoric Nile
+with an ancient fresh-water lake near Buchap, and a few miles from
+Likatlong, a mound was formed in an eddy caused by some conical lias
+towards the east bank of this rent within its bed, and the dead animals
+were floated into the eddy and sank; their bones crop out of the white
+tufa, and they are so well preserved that even the black tartar on
+buffalo and zebra's teeth remain: they are of the present species of
+animals that now inhabit Africa. This is the only case of fossils of
+these animals being found _in situ_. In 1855 I observed similar fossils
+in banks of gravel in transitu all down the Zambesi above Kebrabasa; and
+about 1862 a bed of gravel was found in the delta with many of the same
+fossils that had come to rest in the great deposit of that river, but
+where the Zambesi digs them out is not known. In its course below the
+Victoria Falls I observed tufaceous rocks: these must contain the bones,
+for were they carried away from the great tufa Lake bottom of Sesheke,
+down the Victoria Falls, they would all be ground into fine silt. The
+bones in the river and in the delta were all associated with pieces of
+coarse pottery, exactly the same as the natives make and use at the
+present day: with it we found fragments of a fine grain, only
+occasionally seen among Africans, and closely resembling ancient
+cinerary urns: none were better baked than is customary in the country
+now. The most ancient relics are deeply worn granite, mica-schist, and
+sandstone millstones; the balls used for chipping and roughing them, of
+about the shape and size of an orange, are found lying near them. No
+stone weapons or tools ever met my eyes, though I was anxious to find
+them, and looked carefully over every ancient village we came to for
+many years. There is no flint to make celts, but quartz and rocks having
+a slaty cleavage are abundant. It is only for the finer work that they
+use iron tongs, hammers, and anvils and with these they turn out work
+which makes English blacksmiths declare Africans never did. They are
+very careful of their tools: indeed, the very opposites to the flint
+implement men, who seem sometimes to have made celts just for the
+pleasure of throwing them away: even the Romans did not seem to know the
+value of their money.
+
+The ancient Africans seem to have been at least as early as the
+Asiatics in the art of taming elephants. The Egyptian monuments show
+them bringing tame elephants and lions into Egypt; and very ancient
+sculptures show the real African species, which the artist must have
+seen. They refused to sell elephants, which cost them months of hard
+labour to catch and tame, to a Greek commander of Egyptian troops for a
+few brass pots: they were quite right. Two or three tons of fine fat
+butcher-meat were far better than the price, seeing their wives could
+make any number of cooking pots for nothing.
+
+_15th July, 1872._--Reported to-day that twenty wounded men have been
+brought into M'futu from the field of fighting. About 2000 are said to
+be engaged on the Arab side, and the side of Mirambo would seem to be
+strong, but the assailants have the disadvantage of firing against a
+stockade, and are unprotected, except by ant-hills, bushes, and ditches
+in the field. I saw the first kites to-day: one had spots of white
+feathers on the body below, as if it were a young one--probably come
+from the north.
+
+_17th July, 1872._--Went over to Sultan bin Ali yesterday. Very kind, as
+usual; he gave me guavas and a melon--called "matanga." It is reported
+that one of Mirambo's chief men, Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealed
+holes, which acted like Bruce's "craw-taes" at Bannockburn, and wounded
+several, probably the twenty reported. This has induced the Arabs to
+send for a cannon they have, with which to batter Mirambo at a distance.
+The gun is borne past us this morning: a brass 7-pounder, dated 1679.
+Carried by the Portuguese Commander-in-Chief to China 1679, or 193 years
+ago--and now to beat Mirambo, by Arabs who have very little interest in
+the war.
+
+Some of his people, out prowling two days ago, killed a slave. The war
+is not so near an end as many hoped.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Mtesa's people on their way back to Uganda were stuck fast at
+Unyanyembe the whole of this time: it does not appear at all who the
+missionary was to whom he refers.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Lewale sends off the Baganda in a great hurry, after detaining them for
+six months or more till the war ended, and he now gets pagazi of
+Banyamwezi for them. This haste (though war is not ended) is probably
+because Lewale has heard of a missionary through me.
+
+Mirambo fires now from inside the stockade alone.
+
+_19th July, 1872._--Visited Salim bin Seff, and was very hospitably
+entertained. He was disappointed that I could not eat largely. They live
+very comfortably: grow wheat, whilst flour and fruits grace their board.
+Salim says that goat's flesh at Zanzibar is better than beef, but here
+beef is better than goat's flesh. He is a stout, jolly fellow.
+
+_20th July, 1872._--High cold winds prevail. Temperature, 6 A.M., 57 deg.;
+noon, on the ground, 122 deg.. It may be higher, but I am afraid to risk the
+thermometer, which is graduated to 140 deg. only.
+
+_21st July, 1872._--Bought two milch cows (from a Motusi), which, with
+their calves, were 17 dotis or 34 fathoms. The Baganda are packing up to
+leave for home. They take a good deal of brandy and gin for Mtesa from
+the Moslems. Temperature at noon, 96 deg..
+
+Another nest of wagtails flown. They eat bread crumbs. The whydahs are
+busy pairing. Lewale returns to-day from M'futu on his own private
+business at Kwikuru. The success of the war is a minor consideration
+with all. I wish my men would come, and let me off from this weary
+waiting.
+
+Some philosophising is curious. It represents our Maker forming the
+machine of the universe: setting it a-going, and able to do nothing more
+outside certain of His own laws. He, as it were, laid the egg of the
+whole, and, like an ostrich, left it to be hatched by the sun. We can
+control laws, but He cannot! A fire set to this house would consume it,
+but we can throw on water and consume the fire. We control the elements,
+fire and water: is He debarred from doing the same, and more, who has
+infinite wisdom and knowledge? He surely is greater than His own laws.
+Civilization is only what has been done with natural laws. Some foolish
+speculations in morals resemble the idea of a Muganda, who said last
+night, that if Mtesa didn't kill people now and then, his subjects would
+suppose that he was dead!
+
+_23rd July, 1872._--The departure of the Baganda is countermanded, for
+fear of Mirambo capturing their gunpowder.
+
+Lewale interdicts them from going; he says, "You may go, but leave all
+the gunpowder here, because Mirambo will follow and take it all to fight
+with us." This is an afterthought, for he hurried them to go off. A few
+will go and take the news and some goods to Mtesa, and probably a lot of
+Lewale's goods to trade at Karagwe.
+
+The Baganda are angry, for now their cattle and much of their property
+are expended here; but they say, "We are strangers, and what can we do
+but submit?" The Banyamwesi carriers would all have run away on the
+least appearance of danger. No troops are sent by Seyed Burghash, though
+they were confidently reported long ago. All trade is at a standstill.
+
+_24th July, 1872._--The Bagohe retire from the war. This month is
+unlucky. I visited Lewale and Nkasiwa, putting a blister on the latter,
+for paralytic arm, to please him. Lewale says that a general flight from
+the war has taken place. The excuse is hunger.
+
+He confirms the great damage done by a cyclone at Zanzibar to shipping,
+houses, cocoa-nut palms, mango-trees, and clove-trees, also houses and
+dhows, five days after Burghash returned. Sofeu volunteers to go with
+us, because Mohamad Bogharib never gave him anything, and Bwana Mohinna
+has asked him to go with him. I have accepted his offer, and will
+explain to Mohamad, when I see him, that this is what he promised me in
+the way of giving men, but never performed.
+
+_27th July, 1872._--At dawn a loud rumbling in the east as if of
+thunder, possibly a slight earthquake; no thunder-clouds visible.
+
+Bin Nassib came last night and visited me before going home to his own
+house; a tall, brown, polite Arab. He says that he lately received a
+packet for Mr. Stanley from the American Consul, sealed in tin, and sent
+it back: this is the eleventh that came to Stanley. A party of native
+traders who went with the Baganda were attacked by Mirambo's people, and
+driven back with the loss of all their goods and one killed. The
+fugitives returned this morning sorely downcast. A party of twenty-three
+loads left for Karagwe a few days ago, and the leader alone has
+returned; he does not know more than that one was killed. Another was
+slain on this side of M'futu by Mirambo's people yesterday, the country
+thus is still in a terribly disturbed state. Sheikh bin Nassib says that
+the Arabs have rooted out fifty-two headmen who were Mirambo's allies.
+
+_28th July, 1872._--To Nkasiwa; blistered him, as the first relieved the
+pain and pleased him greatly; hope he may derive benefit.
+
+Cold east winds, and clouded thickly over all the sky.
+
+_29th July, 1872._--Making flour of rice for the journey. Visited Sheikh
+bin Nassib, who has a severe attack of fever; he cannot avoid going to
+the war. He bought a donkey with the tusk he stole from Lewale, and it
+died yesterday; now Lewale says, "Give me back my tusk;" and the Arab
+replies, "Give me back my donkey." The father must pay, but his son's
+character is lost as well as the donkey. Bin Nassib gave me a present of
+wheaten bread and cakes.
+
+_30th July, 1872._--Weary waiting this, and the best time for travelling
+passes over unused. High winds from the east every day bring cold, and,
+to the thinly-clad Arabs, fever. Bin Omari called: goes to Katanga with
+another man's goods to trade there.
+
+_31st July, 1872._--We heard yesterday from Sahib bin Nassib that the
+caravan of his brother Kisessa was at a spot in Ugogo, twelve days off.
+My party had gone by another route. Thankful for even this in my
+wearisome waiting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    Short years in Baganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections.
+    Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary
+    waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor.
+    Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat.
+    Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens
+    and vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. Higher
+    mountains. Large bay.
+
+
+_1st August, 1872._--A large party of Baganda have come to see what is
+stopping the way to Mtesa, about ten headmen and their followers; but
+they were told by an Arab in Usui that the war with Mirambo was over.
+About seventy of them come on here to-morrow, only to be despatched back
+to fetch all the Baganda in Usui, to aid in fighting Mirambo. It is
+proposed to take a stockade near the central one, and therein build a
+battery for the cannon, which seems a wise measure. These arrivals are a
+poor, slave-looking people, clad in bark-cloth, "Mbuzu," and having
+shields with a boss in the centre, round, and about the size of the
+ancient Highlanders' targe, but made of reeds. The Baganda already here
+said that most of the new-comers were slaves, and would be sold for
+cloths. Extolling the size of Mtesa's country, they say it would take a
+year to go across it. When I joked them about it, they explained that a
+year meant five months, three of rain, two of dry, then rain again. Went
+over to apply medicine to Nkasiwa's neck to heal the outside; the
+inside is benefited somewhat, but the power will probably remain
+incomplete, as it now is.
+
+_3rd August, 1872._--Visited Salem bin Seff, who is ill of fever. They
+are hospitable men. Called on Sultan bin Ali and home. It is he who
+effected the flight of all the Baganda pagazi, by giving ten strings of
+beads to Motusi to go and spread a panic among them by night; all
+bolted.
+
+_4th August, 1872._--Wearisome waiting, and the sun is now rainy at
+mid-day, and will become hotter right on to the hot season in November,
+but this delay may be all for the best.
+
+_5th August, 1872._--Visited Nkasiwa, and recommended shampooing the
+disabled limbs with oil or flour. He says that the pain is removed. More
+Baganda have come to Kwihara, and will be used for the Mirambo war.
+
+In many parts one is struck by the fact of the children having so few
+games. Life is a serious business, and amusement is derived from
+imitating the vocations of the parents--hut building, making little
+gardens, bows and arrows, shields and spears. Elsewhere boys are very
+ingenious little fellows, and have several games; they also shoot birds
+with bows, and teach captured linnets to sing. They are expert in making
+guns and traps for small birds, and in making and using bird-lime. They
+make play guns of reed, which go off with a trigger and spring, with a
+cloud of ashes for smoke. Sometimes they make double-barrelled guns of
+clay, and have cotton-fluff as smoke. The boys shoot locusts with small
+toy guns very cleverly. A couple of rufous, brown-headed, and dirty
+speckle-breasted swallows appeared to-day for the first time this
+season, and lighted on the ground. This is the kind that builds here in
+houses, and as far south as Shupanga, on the Zambesi, and at Kuraman.
+Sun-birds visit a mass of spiders' web to-day; they pick out the young
+spiders. Nectar is but part of their food. The insects in or at the
+nectar could not be separated, and hence have been made an essential
+part of their diet. On closer inspection, however, I see that whilst
+seeming to pick out young spiders--and they probably do so--they end in
+detaching the outer coating of spiders' web from the inner stiff paper
+web, in order to make a nest between the two. The outer part is a thin
+coating of loose threads: the inner is tough paper, impervious web, just
+like that which forms the wasps' hive, but stronger. The hen brings fine
+fibres and places them round a hole 1-1/2 inch in diameter, then works
+herself in between the two webs and brings cotton to line the inside
+formed by her body.
+
+--What is the atonement of Christ? It is Himself: it is the inherent
+and everlasting mercy of God made apparent to human eyes and ears. The
+everlasting love was disclosed by our Lord's life and death. It showed
+that God forgives, because He loves to forgive. He works by smiles if
+possible, if not by frowns; pain is only a means of enforcing love.
+
+If we speak of strength, lo! He is strong. The Almighty; the Over Power;
+the Mind of the Universe. The heart thrills at the idea of His
+greatness.
+
+--All the great among men have been remarkable at once for the grasp
+and minuteness of their knowledge. Great astronomers seem to know every
+iota of the Knowable. The Great Duke, when at the head of armies, could
+give all the particulars to be observed in a cavalry charge, and took
+care to have food ready for all his troops. Men think that greatness
+consists in lofty indifference to all trivial things. The Grand Llama,
+sitting in immovable contemplation of nothing, is a good example of what
+a human mind would regard as majesty; but the Gospels reveal Jesus, the
+manifestation of the blessed God over all as minute in His care of all.
+He exercises a vigilance more constant, complete, and comprehensive,
+every hour and every minute, over each of His people than their utmost
+selflove could ever attain. His tender love is more exquisite than a
+mother's heart can feel.
+
+_6th August, 1872._--Wagtails begin to discard their young, which feed
+themselves. I can think of nothing but "when will these men come?" Sixty
+days was the period named, now it is eighty-four. It may be all for the
+best, in the good Providence of the Most High.
+
+_9th August, 1872._--I do most devoutly thank the Lord for His goodness
+in bringing my men near to this. Three came to-day, and how thankful I
+am I cannot express. It is well--the men who went with Mr. Stanley came
+again to me. "Bless the Lord, my soul, and all that is within me, bless
+His holy name." Amen.
+
+_10th August, 1872._--Sent back the three men who came from the Safari,
+with 4 dotis and 3 lbs. of powder. Called on the Lewale to give the news
+as a bit of politeness; found that the old chief Nksiwa had been bumped
+by an ox, and a bruise on the ribs may be serious at his age: this is
+another delay from the war. It is only half-heartedly that anyone goes.
+
+[At last this trying suspense was put an end to by the arrival of a
+troop of fifty-seven men and boys, made up of porters hired by Mr.
+Stanley on the coast, and some more Nassick pupils sent from Bombay to
+join Lieut. Dawson. We find the names of John and Jacob Wainwright
+amongst the latter on Mr. Stanley's list.
+
+Before we incorporate these new recruits on the muster-roll of Dr.
+Livingstone's servants, it seems right to point to five names which
+alone represented at this time the list of his original followers; these
+were Susi, Chuma, and Amoda, who joined him in 1864 on the Zambesi, that
+is eight years previously, and Mabruki and Gardner, Nassick boys hired
+in 1866. We shall see that the new comers by degrees became accustomed
+to the hardships of travel, and shared with the old servants all the
+danger of the last heroic march home. Nor must we forget that it was to
+the intelligence and superior education of Jacob Wainwright (whom we now
+meet with for the first time) that we were indebted for the earliest
+account of the eventful eighteen months during which he was attached to
+the party.
+
+And now all is pounding, packing, bargaining, weighing, and disputing
+amongst the porters. Amidst the inseparable difficulties of an African
+start, one thankful heart gathers, comfort and courage:--]
+
+_15th August, 1872._--The men came yesterday (14th), having been
+seventy-four days from Bagamoio. Most thankful to the Giver of all good
+I am. I have to give them a rest of a few days, and then start.
+
+_16th August, 1872._--An earthquake--"Kiti-ki-sha!"--about 7.0 P.M.
+shook me in my katanda with quick vibrations. They gradually became
+fainter: it lasted some 50 seconds, and was observed by many.
+
+_17th August, 1872._--Preparing things.
+
+_18th August, 1872._--Fando to be avoided as extortionate. Went to bid
+adieu to Sultan bin Ali, and left goods with him for the return journey,
+and many cartridges full and empty, nails for boat, two iron pillars,
+&c.[23]
+
+_19th August, 1872._--Waiting for pagazi. Sultan bin Ali called; is
+going off to M'futu._20th August, 1872._--Weighed all the loads again,
+and gave an equal load of 50 lbs. to each, and half loads to the
+Nassickers. Mabruki Speke is left at Taborah with Sultan bin Ali. He has
+long been sick, and is unable to go with us.
+
+_21st August, 1872._--Gave people an ox, and to a discarded wife a
+cloth, to avoid exposure by her husband stripping her. She is somebody's
+child!
+
+_22nd August, 1872._--Sunday. All ready, but ten pagazi lacking.
+
+_23rd August, 1872._--Cannot get pagasi. Most are sent off to the war.
+
+[At last the start took place. It is necessary to mention that Dr.
+Livingstone's plan in all his travels was to make one short stage the
+first day, and generally late in the afternoon. This, although nothing
+in point of distance, acted like the drill-sergeant's "Attention!" The
+next morning everyone was ready for the road, clear of the town,
+unencumbered with parting words, and by those parting pipes, of terrible
+memory to all hurrying Englishmen in Africa!]
+
+_25th August, 1872._--Started and went one hour to village of Manga or
+Yuba by a granite ridge; the weather clear, and a fine breeze from the
+east refreshes. It is important to give short marches at first. Marched
+1-1/4 hour.
+
+_26th August, 1872._--Two Nassickers lost a cow out of ten head of
+cattle. Marched to Borna of Mayonda. Sent back five men to look after
+the cow. Cow not found: she was our best milker.
+
+_27th August, 1872._--Started for Ebulua and Kasekera of Mamba. Cross
+torrent, now dry, and through forest to village of Ebulua; thence to
+village of Kasekera, 3-1/2 hours. Direction, S. by W.
+
+_28th August, 1872._--Reached Mayole village in 2 hours and rested; S.
+and by W. Water is scarce in front. Through flat forest to a
+marshy-looking piece of water, where we camp, after a march of 1-1/2
+hour; still S. by W.
+
+_29th August, 1872._--On through level forest without water. Trees
+present a dry, wintry aspect; grass dry, but some flowers shoot out, and
+fresh grass where the old growth has been burnt off.
+
+_30th August, 1872._--The two Nassickers lost all the cows yesterday,
+from sheer laziness. They were found a long way off, and one cow
+missing. Susi gave them ten cuts each with a switch. Engaging pagazi and
+rest.
+
+_31st August, 1872._--The Baganda boy Kassa was followed to Gunda, and I
+delivered him to his countrymen. He escaped from Mayole village this
+morning, and came at 3 P.M., his clothes in rags by running through the
+forest eleven hours, say twenty-two miles, and is determined not to
+leave us. Pass Kisari's village, one and a half mile distant, and on to
+Penta or Phinta to sleep, through perfectly flat forest. 3 hours S. by
+W.
+
+_1st September, 1872._--The same flat forest to Chikulu, S. and by W., 4
+hours 25 m. Manyara called, and is going with us to-morrow. Jangiange
+presented a leg of Kongolo or Taghetse, having a bunch of white hair
+beneath the orbital sinus. Bought food and served out rations to the men
+for ten days, as water is scarce, and but little food can be obtained at
+the villages. The country is very dry and wintry-looking, but flowers
+shoot out. First clouds all over to-day. It is hot now. A flock of small
+swallows now appears: they seem tailless and with white bellies.
+
+_2nd September, 1872._--The people are preparing their ten days' food.
+Two pagazi ran away with 24 dotis of the men's calico. Sent after them,
+but with small hopes of capturing them.
+
+_3rd September, 1872._--Unsuccessful search.
+
+_4th September, 1872._--Leave Chikulu's, and pass a large puff-adder in
+the way. A single blow on the head killed it, so that it did not stir.
+About 3 feet long, and as thick as a man's arm, a short tail, and flat
+broad head. The men say this is a very good sign for our journey, though
+it would have been a bad sign, and suffering and death, had one trodden
+on it. Come to Liwane; large tree and waters. S.S.W. 4-1/2 hours.
+
+_5th September, 1872._--A long hot tramp to Manyara's. He is a kind old
+man. Many of the men very tired and sick. S.S.W. 5-3/4 hours.
+
+_6th September, 1872._--Rest the caravan, as we shall have to make
+forced marches on account of tsetse fly.
+
+_7th September, 1872._--Obliged to remain, as several are ill with
+fever.
+
+_8th September, 1872._--On to N'gombo nullah. Very hot and people ill.
+Tsetse. A poor woman of Ujiji followed one of Stanley's men to the
+coast. He cast her off here, and she was taken by another; but her
+temper seems too excitable. She set fire to her hut by accident, and in
+the excitement quarrelled all round; she is a somebody's bairn
+nevertheless, a tall, strapping young woman, she must have been the
+pride of her parents.
+
+_9th September, 1872._--Telekeza[24] at broad part of the nullah, then
+went on two hours and passed the night in the forest.
+
+_10th September, 1872._--On to Mweras, and spent one night there by a
+pool in the forest. Village two miles off.
+
+_11th September, 1872._--On 8-1/2 hours to Telekeza. Sun very hot, and
+marching fatiguing to all.
+
+Majwara has an insect in the aqueous chamber of his eye. It moves about
+and is painful.
+
+We found that an old path from Mwaro has water, and must go early
+to-morrow morning, and so avoid the roundabout by Morefu. We shall thus
+save two days, which in this hot weather is much for us. We hear that
+Simba has gone to fight with Fipa. Two Banyamwezi volunteer. _12th
+September, 1872._--We went by this water till 2 P.M., then made a march,
+and to-morrow get to villages. Got a buffalo and remain overnight. Water
+is in haematite. I engaged four pagazi here, named Motepatonze, Nsakusi,
+Muanamazungu, and Mayombo.
+
+_15th September, 1872._--On to near range of hills. Much large game
+here. Ill.
+
+_16th September, 1872._--Climbed over range about 200 feet high; then on
+westward to stockaded villages of Kamirambo. His land begins at the
+M'toni.
+
+_17th September, 1872._--To Metambo River: 1-1/4 broad, and marshy. Here
+begins the land of Merera. Through forest with many strychnus trees,
+3-1/4 hours, and arrive at Merera's.
+
+_18th September, 1872._--Remain at Merera's to prepare food.
+
+[There is a significant entry here: the old enemy was upon him. It would
+seem that his peculiar liability during these travels to one prostrating
+form of disease was now redoubled. The men speak of few periods of even
+comparative health from this date.]
+
+_19th September, 1872._--Ditto, ditto, because I am ill with bowels,
+having eaten nothing for eight days. Simba wants us to pass by his
+village, and not by the straight path.
+
+_20th September, 1872._--Went to Simba's; 3-1/2 hours. About north-west.
+Simba sent a handsome present of food, a goat, eggs, and a fowl, beans,
+split rice, dura, and sesame. I gave him three dotis of superior cloth.
+
+_21st September, 1872._--Rest here, as the complaint does not yield to
+medicine or time; but I begin to eat now, which is a favourable symptom.
+Under a lofty tree at Simba's, a kite, the common brown one, had two
+pure white eggs in its nest, larger than a fowl's, and very spherical.
+The Banyamwesi women are in general very coarse, not a beautiful woman
+amongst them, as is so common among the Batusi; squat, thick-set
+figures, and features too; a race of pagazi. On coming inland from
+sea-coast, the tradition says, they cut the end of a cone shell, so as
+to make it a little of the half-moon shape; this is their chief
+ornament. They are generally respectful in deportment, but not very
+generous; they have learned the Arab adage, "Nothing for nothing," and
+are keen slave-traders. The gingerbread palm of Speke is the _Hyphene_;
+the Borassus has a large seed, very like the Coco-de-mer of the
+Seychelle Islands, in being double, but it is very small compared to it.
+
+_22nd September, 1872._--Preparing food, and one man pretends inability
+to walk; send for some pagazi to carry loads of those who carry him.
+Simba sends copious libations of pombe.
+
+_23rd September, 1872._--The pagazi, after demanding enormous pay,
+walked off. We went on along rocky banks of a stream, and, crossing it,
+camped, because the next water is far off.
+
+_24th September, 1872._--Recovering and thankful, but weak; cross broad
+sedgy stream, and so on to Boma Misonghi, W. and by S.
+
+_25th September, 1872._--Got a buffalo and M'jure, and remain to eat
+them. I am getting better slowly. The M'jure, or water hog, was all
+eaten by hyaenas during night; but the buffalo is safe.
+
+_26th September, 1872._--Through forest, along the side of a sedgy
+valley. Cross its head water, which has rust of iron in it, then W.
+and by S. The forest has very much tsetse. Zebras calling loudly, and
+Senegal long claw in our camp at dawn, with its cry,
+"O-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o."
+
+_27th September, 1872._--On at dawn. No water expected, but we crossed
+three abundant supplies before we came to hill of our camp. Much game
+about here. Getting well again--thanks. About W. 3-3/4 hours. No people,
+or marks of them. Flowers sprouting in expectation of rains; much land
+burned off, but grass short yet.
+
+_28th September, 1872._--At two hills with mushroom-topped trees on
+west side. Crossed a good stream 12 feet broad and knee deep.
+
+Buffaloes grazing. Many of the men sick. Whilst camping, a large musk
+cat broke forth among us and was killed. (Ya bude--musk). Musk cat
+(N'gawa), black with white stripes; from point of nose to tip of tail, 4
+feet; height at withers, 1 foot 6 inches.
+
+_29th September, 1872._--Through much bamboo and low hills to M'pokwa
+ruins and river. The latter in a deep rent in alluvial soil. Very hot,
+and many sick in consequence. Sombala fish abundant. Course W.
+
+_30th September, 1872._--Away among low tree-covered hills of granite
+and sandstone. Found that Bangala had assaulted the village to which we
+went a few days ago, and all were fugitives. Our people found plenty of
+Batatas[25] in the deserted gardens. A great help, for all were hungry.
+
+_1st October, 1872, Friday_--On through much deserted cultivation in
+rich damp soil. Surrounded with low tree-covered ranges. We saw a few
+people, but all are in terror.
+
+_2nd October, 1872._--Obtained M'tama in abundance for brass wire, and
+remained to grind it. The people have been without any for some days,
+and now rejoice in plenty. A slight shower fell at 5 A.M., but not
+enough to lay the dust.
+
+_3rd October, 1872._--Southwards, and down a steep descent into a rich
+valley with much green maize in ear; people friendly; but it was but one
+hour's march, so we went on through hilly country S.W. Men firing off
+ammunition, had to be punished. We crossed the Katuma River in the
+bottom of a valley; it is 12 feet broad, and knee deep; camped in a
+forest. Farjella shot a fine buffalo. The weather disagreeably hot and
+sultry.
+
+_4th October, 1872._--Over the same hilly country; the grass is burnt
+off, but the stalks are disagreeable. Came to a fine valley with a large
+herd of zebras feeding quietly; pretty animals. We went only an hour and
+a half to-day, as one sick man is carried, and it is hot and trying for
+all. I feel it much internally, and am glad to more slowly.
+
+_5th October, 1872._--Up and down mountains, very sore on legs and
+lungs. Trying to save donkey's strength I climbed and descended, and as
+soon as I mounted, off he set as hard as he could run, and he felt not
+the bridle; the saddle was loose, but I stuck on till we reached water
+in a bamboo hollow with spring.
+
+_6th October, 1872._--A long bamboo valley with giraffes in it. Range on
+our right stretches away from us, and that on the left dwindled down;
+all covered with bamboos, in tufts like other grasses; elephants eat
+them. Travelled W. and by S. 2-3/4 hours. Short marches on account of
+carrying one sick man.
+
+_7th October, 1872._--Over fine park-like country, with large belts of
+bamboo and fine broad shady trees. Went westwards to the end of the
+left-hand range. Went four hours over a level forest with much haematite.
+Trees large and open. Large game evidently abounds, and waters generally
+are not far apart. Our neighbour got a zebra, a rhinoceros, and two
+young elephants.
+
+_8th October, 1872._--Came on early as sun is hot, and in two hours saw
+the Tanganyika from a gentle hill. The land is rough, with angular
+fragments of quartz; the rocks of mica schist are tilted up as if away
+from the Lake's longer axis. Some are upright, and some have basalt
+melted into the layers, and crystallized in irregular polygons. All are
+very tired, and in coming to a stockade we were refused admittance,
+because Malongwana had attacked them lately, and we might seize them
+when in this stronghold. Very true; so we sit ontside in the shade of a
+single palm (Borassus).
+
+_9th October, 1872._--Rest, because all are tired, and several sick.
+This heat makes me useless, and constrains me to lie like a log.
+Inwardly I feel tired too. Jangeange leaves us to-morrow, having found
+canoes going to Ujiji.
+
+_10th October, 1872._--People very tired, and it being moreover Sunday
+we rest. Gave each a keta of beads. Usowa chief Ponda.
+
+_11th October, 1872._--Reach Kalema district after 2-3/4 hours over
+black mud all deeply cracked, and many deep torrents now dry. Kalema is
+a stockade. We see Tanganyika, but a range of low hills intervenes. A
+rumour of war to-morrow.
+
+_12th October, 1872._--We wait till 2 P.M., and then make a forced march
+towards Fipa. The people cultivate but little, for fear of enemies; so
+we can buy few provisions. We left a broad valley with a sand river in
+it, where we have been two days, and climbed a range of hills parallel
+to Tanganyika, of mica schist and gneiss, tilted away from the Lake. We
+met a buffalo on the top of one ridge, it was shot into and lay down,
+but we lost it. Course S.W. to brink of Tanganyika water.
+
+_13th October, 1872._--Our course went along the top of a range of hills
+lying parallel with the Lake. A great part of yesterday was on the same
+range. It is a thousand feet above the water, and is covered with trees
+rather scraggy. At sunset the red glare on the surface made the water
+look like a sea of reddish gold; it seemed so near that many went off to
+drink, but were three or four hours in doing so. One cannot see the
+other side on account of the smokes in the air, but this morning three
+capes jut out, and the last bearing S.E. from our camp seems to go near
+the other side. Very hot weather. To the town of Fipa to-morrow. Course
+about S. Though we suffer much from the heat by travelling at this
+season, we escape a vast number of running and often muddy rills, also
+muddy paths which would soon knock the donkey up. A milk-and-water sky
+portends rain. Tipo Tipo is reported to be carrying it with a high hand
+in Nsama's country, Itawa, insisting that all the ivory must be brought
+as his tribute--the conqueror of Nsama. Our drum is the greatest object
+of curiosity we have to the Banyamwezi. A very great deal of cotton is
+cultivated all along the shores of Lake Tanganyika; it is the Pernambuco
+kind, with the seeds clinging together, but of good and long fibre, and
+the trees are left standing all the year to enable them to become large;
+grain and ground-nuts are cultivated between them. The cotton is
+manufactured into coarse cloth, which is the general clothing of all.
+
+_14th October, 1872._--Crossed two deep gullies with sluggish water in
+them, and one surrounding an old stockade. Camp on a knoll, overlooking
+modern stockade and Tanganyika very pleasantly. Saw two beautiful
+sultanas with azure blue necks. We might have come here yesterday, but
+were too tired. Mukembe land is ruled by chief Kariaria; village,
+Mokaria. Mount M'Pumbwe goes into the Lake. N'Tambwe Mount; village,
+Kafumfwe. Kapufi is the chief of Fipa.
+
+Noon, and about fifty feet above Lake; clouded over. Temperature 91 deg.
+noon; 94 deg. 3 P.M.
+
+_15th October, 1872._--Rest, and kill an ox. The dry heat is
+distressing, and all feel it sorely. I am right glad of the rest, but
+keep on as constantly as I can. By giving dura and maize to the donkeys,
+and riding on alternate days, they hold on; but I feel the sun more than
+if walking. The chief Kariaria is civil.
+
+_16th October, 1872._--Leave Mokaia and go south. We crossed several
+bays of Tanganyika, the path winding considerably. The people set fire
+to our camp as soon as we started.
+
+_17th October, 1872._--Leave a bay of Tanganyika, and go on to Mpimbwe;
+two lions growled savagely as we passed. Game is swarming here, but my
+men cannot shoot except to make a noise. We found many lepidosirens in a
+muddy pool, which a group of vultures were catching and eating. The men
+speared one of them, which had scales on; its tail had been bitten off
+by a cannibal brother: in length it was about two feet: there were
+curious roe-like portions near its backbone, yellow in colour; the flesh
+was good. We climbed up a pass at the east end of Mpimbwe mountain, and
+at a rounded mass of it found water.
+
+_18th October, 1872._--Went on about south among mountains all day till
+we came down, by a little westing, to the Lake again, where there were
+some large villages, well stockaded, with a deep gully half round them.
+Ill with my old complaint again. Bubwe is the chief here. Food dear,
+because Simba made a raid lately. The country is Kilando.
+
+_19th October, 1872._--Remained to prepare food and rest the people. Two
+islets, Nkoma and Kalenge, are here, the latter in front of us.
+
+_20th October, 1872._--We got a water-buck and a large buffalo, and
+remained during the forenoon to cut up the meat, and started at 2 P.M.
+
+Went on and passed a large arm of Tanganyika, having a bar of hills on
+its outer border. Country swarming with large game. Passed two bomas,
+and spent the night near one of them. Course east and then south.
+
+_21st October, 1872._--Mokassa, a Moganda boy, has a swelling of the
+ankle, which prevents his walking. We went one hour to find wood to make
+a litter for him. The bomas round the villages are plastered with mud,
+so as to intercept balls or arrows. The trees are all cut down for these
+stockades, and the flats are cut up with deep gullies. A great deal of
+cotton is cultivated, of which the people make their cloth. There is an
+arm of Tanganyika here called Kafungia.
+
+I sent a doti to the headman of the village, where we made the litter,
+to ask for a guide to take us straight south instead of going east to
+Fipa, which is four days off and out of our course. Tipo Tipo is said
+to be at Morero, west of Tanganyika.
+
+_22nd October, 1872._--Turned back westwards, and went through the hills
+down to some large islets in the Lake, and camped in villages destroyed
+by Simba. A great deal of cotton is cultivated here, about thirty feet
+above the Lake.
+
+_23rd October, 1872._--First east, and then passed two deep bays, at one
+of which we put up, as they had food to sell. The sides of the
+Tanganyika Lake are a succession of rounded bays, answering to the
+valleys which trend down to the shore between the numerous ranges of
+hills. In Lake Nyassa they seem made by the prevailing winds. We only
+get about one hour and a half south and by east. Rain probably fell last
+night, for the opposite shore is visible to-day. The mountain range of
+Banda slopes down as it goes south. This is the district of Motoshi.
+Wherever buffaloes are to be caught, falling traps are suspended over
+the path in the trees near the water.
+
+_24th October, 1872._--There are many rounded bays in mountainous Fipa.
+We rested two hours in a deep shady dell, and then came along a very
+slippery mountain-side to a village in a stockade. It is very hot
+to-day, and the first thunderstorm away in the east. The name of this
+village is Linde.
+
+_25th October, 1872._--The coast runs south-south-east to a cape. We
+went up south-east, then over a high steep hill to turn to south again,
+then down into a valley of Tanganyika, over another stony side, and down
+to a dell with a village in it. The west coast is very plain to-day;
+rain must have fallen there.
+
+_26th October, 1872._--Over hills and mountains again, past two deep
+bays, and on to a large bay with a prominent islet on the south side of
+it, called Kitanda, from the chiefs name. There is also a rivulet of
+fine water of the same name here.
+
+_27th October, 1872._--Remained to buy food, which is very dear. We
+slaughtered a tired cow to exchange for provisions.
+
+_28th October, 1872._--Left Kitanda, and came round the cape, going
+south. The cape furthest north bore north-north-west. We came to three
+villages and some large spreading trees, where we were invited by the
+headman to remain, as the next stage along the shore is long. Morilo
+islet is on the other or western side, at the crossing-place. The people
+brought in a leopard in great triumph. Its mouth and all its claws were
+bound with grass and bands of bark, as if to make it quite safe, and its
+tail was curled round: drumming and lullilooing in plenty.
+
+The chief Mosirwa, or Kasamane, paid us a visit, and is preparing a
+present of food. One of his men was bitten by the leopard in the arm
+before he killed it. Molilo or Morilo islet is the crossing-place of
+Banyamwezi when bound for Casembe's country, and is near to the Lofuko
+River, on the western shore of the Lake. The Lake is about twelve or
+fifteen miles broad, at latitude 7 deg. 52' south. Tipo Tipo is ruling in
+Itawa, and bound a chief in chains, but loosed him on being requested to
+do so by Syde bin Ali. It takes about three hours to cross at Morilo.
+
+_29th October, 1872._--Crossed the Thembwa Rivulet, twenty feet broad
+and knee deep, and sleep on its eastern bank. Fine cold water over stony
+bottom. The mountains now close in on Tanganyika, so there is no path
+but one, over which luggage cannot be carried. The stage after this is
+six hours up hill before we come to water. This forced me to stop after
+only a short crooked march of two and a quarter hours. We are now on the
+confines of Fipa. The next march takes us into Burungu.
+
+_30th October, 1872._--The highest parts of the mountains are from 500
+feet to 700 feet higher than the passes, say from 1300 feet to 1500 feet
+above the Lake. A very rough march to-day; one cow fell, and was
+disabled. The stones are collected in little heaps and rows, which
+shows that all these rough mountains were cultivated. We arrive at a
+village on the Lake shore. Kirila islet is about a quarter of a mile
+from the shore. The Megunda people cultivated these hills in former
+times. Thunder all the morning, and a few drops of rain fell. It will
+ease the men's feet when it does fall. They call out earnestly for it,
+"Come, come with hail!" and prepare their huts for it.
+
+_31st October, 1872._--Through a long pass after we had climbed over
+Winelao. Came to an islet one and a half mile long, called Kapessa, and
+then into a long pass. The population of Megunda must have been
+prodigious, for all the stones have been cleared, and every available
+inch of soil cultivated.
+
+The population are said to have been all swept away by the Matuta.
+
+Going south we came to a very large arm of the Lake, with a village at
+the end of it in a stockade. This arm is seven or eight miles long and
+about two broad. We killed a cow to-day, and found peculiar flat worms
+in the substance of the liver, and some that were rounded.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] Without entering into the merits of a disputed point as to
+whether the men on their return journey would have been brought to a
+standstill at Unyanyembe but for the opportune presence of Lieutenant
+Cameron and his party, it will be seen nevertheless that this entry
+fully bears out the assertion of the men that they had cloth laid by
+in store here for the journey to the coast.
+
+It seems that by an unfortunate mistake a box of desiccated milk, of
+which the Doctor was subsequently in great need, was left behind
+amongst these goods. The last words written by him will remind one of
+the circumstance. On their return the unlucky box was the first thing
+that met Susi's eye!--ED.
+
+[24] Midday halt.
+
+[25] Sweet potatoes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse
+    bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu.
+    The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A
+    difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The
+    flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi.
+    Arrives at Chitunkue's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne
+    through the flooded country.
+
+
+_1st November, 1872._--We hear that an eruption of Babemba, on the
+Baulungu, destroyed all the food. We tried to buy food here, but
+everything is hidden in the mountains, so we have to wait to-day till
+they fetch it. If in time, we shall make an afternoon's march. Raining
+to-day. The Eiver Mulu from Chingolao gave us much trouble in crossing
+from being filled with vegetation: it goes into Tanganyika. Our course
+south and east.
+
+_2nd November, 1872._--Deceived by a guide, who probably feared his
+countrymen in front. Went round a stony cape, and then to a land-locked
+harbour, three miles long by two broad. Here was a stockade, where our
+guide absconded. They told us that if we continued our march we should
+not get water for four hours, so we rested, having marched four and a
+quarter hours.
+
+_3rd November, 1872._--We marched this morning to a village where food
+was reported. I had to punish two useless men for calling out, "Posho!
+posho! posho!" (rations) as soon as I came near. One is a confirmed
+bange-smoker;[26]the blows were given slightly, but I promised that the
+next should be severe. The people of Liemba village having a cow or two,
+and some sheep and goats, eagerly advised us to go on to the next
+village, as being just behind a hill, and well provisioned. Four very
+rough hills were the penalty of our credulity, taking four hours of
+incessant toil in these mountain fastnesses. They hide their food, and
+the paths are the most difficult that can be found, in order to wear out
+their enemies. To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five and
+a half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice.
+
+_4th November, 1872._--All very tired. We tried to get food, but it is
+very dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably brought from
+Fipa. A rest will be beneficial to us.
+
+_5th November, 1872._--We went up a high mountain, but found that one of
+the cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to be
+slaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the people went
+down for water.
+
+_6th November, 1872._--Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steep
+mountain. Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb we look
+down on the Lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare floats over it.
+Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and looked sheer down 500 feet
+or 600 feet into its dark green waters. We saw three zebras and a young
+python here, and fine flowers.
+
+_7th November, 1872, Sunday._--Remained, but the headman forbade his
+people to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him to a parley,
+which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in defiance, as if he were
+inclined to fighting. At last, seeing that we took no notice of him, he
+sent us a present; I returned three times its value.
+
+_8th November, 1872._--The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climb
+the high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and they did
+it well. I then sent some to find a path out from the Lake mountains,
+for they will kill us all; others were despatched to buy food, but the
+Lake folks are poor except in fish.
+
+Swifts in flocks were found on the Lake when we came to it, and there
+are small migrations of swallows ever since. Though this is the very
+hottest time of year, and all the plants are burnt off or quite dried,
+the flowers persist in bursting out of the hot dry surface, generally
+without leaves. A purple ginger, with two yellow patches inside, is very
+lovely to behold, and it is alternated with one of a bright canary
+yellow; many trees, too, put on their blossoms. The sun makes the soil
+so hot that the radiation is as if it came from a furnace. It burns the
+feet of the people, and knocks them up. Subcutaneous inflammation is
+frequent in the legs, and makes some of my most hardy men useless. We
+have been compelled to slowness very much against my will. I too was
+ill, and became better only by marching on foot. Riding exposes one to
+the bad influence of the sun, while by walking the perspiration modifies
+beneficially the excessive heat. It is like the difference in effect of
+cold if one is in activity or sitting, and falling asleep on a
+stage-coach. I know ten hot fountains north of the Orange River; the
+further north the more hot and numerous they become.
+
+[Just here we find a note, which does not bear reference to anything
+that occurred at this time. Men, in the midst of their hard earnest
+toil, perceive great truths with a sharpness of outline and a depth of
+conviction which is denied to the mere idle theorist: he says:--]
+
+The spirit of Missions is the spirit of our Master: the very genius of
+His religion. A diffusive philanthropy is Christianity itself. It
+requires perpetual propagation to attest its genuineness.
+
+_9th November, 1872._--We got very little food, and kill a calf to fill
+our mouths a little. A path east seems to lead out from these mountains
+of Tanganyika. We went on east this morning in highland open forest,
+then descended by a long slope to a valley in which there is water. Many
+Milenga gardens, but the people keep out of sight. The highlands are of
+a purple colour from the new leaves coming out. The donkey began to eat
+to my great joy. Men sent off to search for a village return
+empty-handed, and we must halt. I am ill and losing much blood.
+
+_10th November, 1872._--Out from the Lake mountains, and along high
+ridges of sandstone and dolomite. Our guide volunteered to take the men
+on to a place where food can be bought--a very acceptable offer. The
+donkey is recovering; it was distinctly the effects of tsetse, for the
+eyes and all the mouth and nostrils swelled. Another died at Kwihara
+with every symptom of tsetse poison fully developed.
+
+[The above remarks on the susceptibility of the donkey to the bite of
+the tsetse fly are exceedingly important. Hitherto Dr. Livingstone had
+always maintained, as the result of his own observations, that this
+animal, at all events, could be taken through districts in which horses,
+mules, dogs, and oxen would perish to a certainty. With the keen
+perception and perseverance of one who was exploring Africa with a view
+to open it up for Europeans, he laid great stress on these experiments,
+and there is no doubt that the distinct result which he here arrived at
+must have a very significant bearing on the question of travel and
+transport.
+
+Still passing through the same desolate country, we see that he makes a
+note on the forsaken fields and the watch-towers in them. Cucumbers are
+cultivated in large quantities by the natives of Inner Africa, and the
+reader will no doubt call to mind the simile adopted by Isaiah some 2500
+years ago, as he pictured the coming desolation of Zion, likening her to
+a "lodge in a garden of cucumbers."[27]]
+
+_11th November, 1872._--Over
+gently undulating country, with many old gardens and watch-houses, some
+of great height, we reached the River Kalambo, which I know as falling
+into Tanganyika. A branch joins it at the village of Mosapasi; it is
+deep, and has to be crossed by a bridge, whilst the Kalambo is shallow,
+and say twenty yards wide, but it spreads out a good deal.
+
+[Their journey of the _12th_ and _13th_ led them over low ranges of
+sandstone and haematite, and past several strongly stockaded villages.
+The weather was cloudy and showery--a relief, no doubt, after the
+burning heat of the last few weeks. They struck the Halocheche River, a
+rapid stream fifteen yards wide and thigh deep, on its way to the Lake,
+and arrived at Zombe's town, which is built in such a manner that the
+river runs through it, whilst a stiff palisade surrounds it. He says:--]
+
+It was entirely surrounded by M'toka's camp, and a constant fight
+maintained at the point where the line of stakes was weakened by the
+river running through. He killed four of the enemy, and then Chitimbwa
+and Kasonso coming to help him, the siege was raised.
+
+M'toka compelled some Malongwana to join him, and plundered many
+villages; he has been a great scourge. He also seems to have made an
+attack upon an Arab caravan, plundering it of six bales of cloth and one
+load of beads, telling them that if they wanted to get their things back
+they must come and help him conquer Zombe. The siege lasted three
+months, till the two brothers of Zombe, before-mentioned, came, and then
+a complete rout ensued. M'toka left nearly all his guns behind him; his
+allies, the Malongwana, had previously made their escape. It is two
+months since this rout, so we have been prevented by a kind Providence
+from coming soon enough. He was impudent and extortionate before, and
+much more now that he has been emboldened by success in plundering.
+
+_16th November, 1872._--After waiting some time for the men I sent men
+back yesterday to look after the sick donkey, they arrived, but the
+donkey died this morning. Its death was evidently caused by tsetse bite
+and bad usage by one of the men, who kept it forty-eight hours without
+water. The rain, no doubt, helped to a fatal end; it is a great loss to
+me.
+
+_17th November, 1872._--We went on along the bottom of a high ridge that
+flanks the Lake on the west, and then turned up south-east to a village
+hung on the edge of a deep chasm in which flows the Aeezy.
+
+_18th November, 1872._--We were soon overwhelmed in a pouring rain, and
+had to climb up the slippery red path which is parallel and near to
+Mbette's. One of the men picked up a little girl who had been deserted
+by her mother. As she was benumbed by cold and wet he carried her; but
+when I came up he threw her into the grass. I ordered a man to carry
+her, and we gave her to one of the childless women; she is about four
+years old, and not at all negro-looking. Our march took us about S.W. to
+Kampamba's, the son of Kasonso, who is dead.
+
+_19th November, 1872._--I visited Kampamba. He is still as agreeable as
+he was before when he went with us to Liemba. I gave him two cloths as a
+present. He has a good-sized village. There are heavy rains now and then
+every day.
+
+_20th, 21st, and 23rd November, 1872._--The men turn to stringing beads
+for future use, and to all except defaulters I give a present of 2
+dotis, and a handful of beads each. I have diminished the loads
+considerably, which pleases them much. We have now 3-1/2 loads of
+calico, and 120 bags of beads. Several go idle, but have to do any odd
+work, such as helping the sick or anything they are ordered to do. I
+gave the two Nassickers who lost the cow and calf only 1 doti, they were
+worth 14 dotis. One of our men is behind, sick with dysentery. I am
+obliged to leave him, but have sent for him twice, and have given him
+cloth and beads.
+
+_24th November, 1872._--Left Kampamba's to-day, and cross a meadow S.E.
+of the village in which the River Muanani rises. It flows into the
+Kapondosi and so on to the Lake. We made good way with Kiteneka as our
+guide, who formerly accompanied Kampamba and ourselves to Liemba. We
+went over a flat country once covered with trees, but now these have all
+been cut down, say 4 to 5 feet from the ground, most likely for
+clearing, as the reddish soil is very fertile. Long lines of hills of
+denudation are in the distance, all directed to the Lake.
+
+We came at last to Kasonso's successor's village on the River Molulwe,
+which is, say, thirty yards wide, and thigh deep. It goes to the Lofu.
+The chief here gave a sheep--a welcome present, for I was out of flesh
+for four days. Kampamba is stingy as compared with his father.
+
+_25th November, 1872._--We came in an hour's march to a rivulet called
+the Casembe--the departed Kasonso lived here. The stream is very deep,
+and flows slowly to the Lofu. Our path lay through much pollarded
+forest, troublesome to walk in, as the stumps send out leafy shoots.
+
+_26th November, 1872._--Started at daybreak. The grass was loaded with
+dew, and a heavy mist hung over everything. Passed two villages of
+people come out to cultivate this very fertile soil, which they manure
+by burning branches of trees. The Rivulet Loela flows here, and is also
+a tributary of the Lofu.
+
+_27th November, 1872._--As it is Sunday we stay here at N'dari's
+village, for we shall be in an uninhabited track to-morrow, beyond the
+Lofu. The headman cooked six messes for us and begged us to remain for
+more food, which we buy. He gave us a handsome present of flour and a
+fowl, for which I return him a present of a doti. Very heavy rain and
+high gusts of wind, which wet us all.
+
+_28th November, 1872._--We came to the River Lofu in a mile. It is
+sixty feet across and very deep. We made a bridge, and cut the banks
+down, so that the donkey and cattle could pass over. It took us two
+hours, during which time we hauled them all across with a rope. We were
+here misled by our guide, who took us across a marsh covered with tufts
+of grass, but with deep water between that never dries; there is a path
+which goes round it. We came to another village with a river which must
+be crossed--no stockade here, and the chief allowed us to camp in his
+town. There are long low lines of hills all about. A man came to the
+bridge to ask for toll-fee: as it was composed of one stick only, and
+unfit for our use because rotten, I agreed to pay provided he made it
+fit for our large company; but if I re-made and enlarged it, I said he
+ought to give me a goat for the labour. He slunk away, and we laid large
+trees across, where previously there was but one rotten pole.
+
+_29th November, 1872._--Crossed the Loozi in two branches, and climbed
+up the gentle ascent of Malembe to the village of Chiwe, whom I formerly
+called Chibwe, being misled by the Yao tongue. Ilamba is the name of the
+rill at his place. The Loozi's two branches were waist deep. The first
+was crossed by a natural bridge of a fig-tree growing across. It runs
+into the Lofu, which river rises in Isunga country at a mountain called
+Kwitette. The Chambeze rises east of this, and at the same place as
+Louzua.
+
+Chiwe presented a small goat with crooked legs and some millet flour,
+but he grumbled at the size of the fathom cloth I gave. I offered
+another fathom, and a bundle of needles, but he grumbled at this too,
+and sent it back. On this I returned his goat and marched.
+
+[The road lay through the same country among low hills, for several
+miles, till they came on the _1st December_ to a rivulet called Lovu
+Katanta, where curiously enough they found a nutmeg-tree in full
+bearing. A wild species is found at Angola on the West Coast and it was
+probably of this description, and not the same species as that which is
+cultivated in the East. In two places he says:--]
+
+Who planted the nutmeg-tree on the Katanta?
+
+[Passing on with heavy rain pouring down, they now found themselves in
+the Wemba country, the low tree-covered hills exhibiting here and there
+"fine-grained schist and igneous rocks of red, white, and green
+colour."]
+
+_3rd December, 1872._--No food to be got on account of M'toka's and Tipo
+Tipo's raids.
+
+A stupid or perverse guide took us away to-day N.W. or W.N.W. The
+villagers refused to lead us to Chipwite's, where food was to be had; he
+is S.W. 1-1/2 day off. The guide had us at his mercy, for he said, "If
+you go S.W. you will be five days without food or people." We crossed
+the Kanomba, fifteen yards wide, and knee deep. Here our guide
+disappeared, and so did the path. We crossed the Lampussi twice; it is
+forty yards wide, and knee deep; our course is W.N.W. for about 4-1/2
+hours to-day. We camped and sent men to search for a village that has
+food. My third barometer (aneroid) is incurably injured by a fall, the
+man who carried it slipped upon a clayey path.
+
+_4th December, 1872._--Waiting for the return of our men in a green
+wooded valley on the Lampussi River. Those who were sent yesterday
+return without anything; they were directed falsely by the country
+people, where nought could be bought. The people themselves are living
+on grubs, roots, and fruits. The young plasterer Sphex is very fat on
+coming out of its clay house, and a good relish for food. A man came to
+us demanding his wife and child; they are probably in hiding; the slaves
+of Tipo Tipo have been capturing people. One sinner destroyeth much
+good!
+
+_5th December, 1872._--The people eat mushrooms and leaves. My men
+returned about 5 P.M. with two of Kafimbe's men bringing a present of
+food to me. A little was bought, and we go on to-morrow to sleep two
+nights on the way, and so to Kafimbe, who is a brother of Nsama's, and
+fights him.
+
+_6th December, 1872._--We cross the Lampussi again, and up to a mountain
+along which we go, and then down to some ruins. This took us five hours,
+and then with 2-1/4 more hours we reach Sintila. We hasten along as fast
+as hungry men (four of them sick) can go to get food.
+
+_1th December, 1872._--Off at 6.15 A.M. A leopard broke in upon us last
+night and bit a woman. She screamed, and so did the donkey, and it ran
+off. Our course lay along between two ranges of low hills, then, where
+they ended, we went by a good-sized stream thirty yards or so across,
+and then down into a valley to Kafimbe's.
+
+_8th December, 1872._--Very heavy rains. I visited Kafimbe. He is an
+intelligent and pleasant young man, who has been attacked several times
+by Kitandula, the successor of Nsama of Itawa, and compelled to shift
+from Motononga to this rivulet Motosi, which flows into the Kisi and
+thence into Lake Moero.
+
+_9th December, 1872._--Send off men to a distance for food, and wait of
+course. Here there is none for either love or money. To-day a man came
+from the Arab party at Kumba-Kumba's with a present of M'chele and a
+goat. He reports that they have killed Casembe, whose people concealed
+from him the approach of the enemy till they were quite near. Having no
+stockade, he fell an easy prey to them. The conquerors put his head and
+all his ornaments on poles. His pretty wife escaped over Mofwe, and the
+slaves of the Arabs ran riot everywhere. We sent a return present of two
+dotis of cloth, one jorah of Kanike, one doti of coloured cloth, three
+pounds of beads, and a paper of needles.
+
+_10th December, 1872._--Left Kafimbe's. He gave us three men to take us
+into Chama's village, and came a mile along the road with us. Our road
+took us by a winding course from one little deserted village to another.
+
+_11th December, 1872._--Being far from water we went two hours across a
+plain dotted with villages to a muddy rivulet called the Mukubwe (it
+runs to Moero), where we found the village of a nephew of Nsama. This
+young fellow was very liberal in gifts of food, and in return I gave him
+two cloths. An Arab, Juma bin Seff, sent a goat to-day. They have been
+riding it roughshod over all the inhabitants, and confess it.
+
+_12th December, 1872._--Marenza sent a present of dura flour and a fowl,
+and asked for a little butter as a charm. He seems unwilling to give us
+a guide, though told by Kafimbe to do so. Many Garaganza about: they
+trade in leglets, ivory, and slaves. We went on half-an-hour to the
+River Mokoe, which is thirty yards wide, and carries off much water into
+Malunda, and so to Lake Moero.
+
+When palm-oil palms are cut down for toddy, they are allowed to lie
+three days, then the top shoot is cut off smoothly, and the toddy begins
+to flow; and it flows for a month, or a month and a half or so, lying on
+the soil.
+
+[The note made on the following day is written with a feeble hand, and
+scarce one pencilled word tallies with its neighbour in form or
+distinctness--in fact, it is seen at a glance what exertion it cost him
+to write at all. He says no more than "Ill" in one place, but this is
+the evident explanation; yet with the same painstaking determination of
+old, the three rivers which they crossed have their names recorded, and
+the hours of marching and the direction are all entered in his pocket
+book.]
+
+_13th December, 1872._--Westward about by south, and crossed a river,
+Mokobwe, thirty-five yards. Ill, and after going S.W. camped in a
+deserted village, S.W. travelling five hours. River Mekanda 2nd. Menomba
+3, where we camp.
+
+_14th December, 1872._--Guides turned N.W. to take us to a son of
+Nsama, and so play the usual present into his hands. I objected when I
+saw their direction, but they said, "The path turns round in front."
+After going a mile along the bank of the Menomba, which has much water,
+Susi broke through and ran south, till he got a S. by W. path, which we
+followed, and came to a village having plenty of food. As we have now
+camped in village, we sent the men off to recall the fugitive women, who
+took us for Komba-Komba's men. Crossed the Lupere, which runs into the
+Makobwe.
+
+A leech crawling towards me in the village this morning elicited the
+Bemba idea that they fall from the clouds or sky--"mulu." It is called
+here "Mosunda a maluze," or leech of the rivers; "Luba" is the Zanzibar
+name. In one place I counted nineteen leeches in our path, in about a
+mile; rain had fallen, and their appearance out of their hiding-places
+suddenly after heavy rain may have given rise to the idea of their fall
+with it as fishes do, and the thunder frog is supposed to do. Always too
+cloudy and rainy for observations of stars.
+
+_15th December, 1872._--The country is now level, covered with trees
+pollarded for clothing, and to make ashes of for manure. There are many
+deserted villages, few birds. Cross the Eiver Lithabo, thirty yards wide
+and thigh deep, running fast to the S.W., joined by a small one near.
+Reached village of Chipala, on the Rivulet Chikatula, which goes to
+Moipanza. The Lithabo goes to Kalongwesi by a S.W. course.
+
+_16th December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. across the Chikatula, and in
+three-quarters of an hour crossed the Lopanza, twelve yards wide and
+waist deep, being now in flood. The Lolela was before us in
+half-an-hour, eight yards wide and thigh deep, both streams perennial
+and embowered in tall umbrageous trees that love wet; both flow to the
+Kalongwesi.
+
+We came to quite a group of villages having food, and remain, as we got
+only driblets in the last two camps. Met two Banyamwezi carrying salt to
+Lobemba, of Moambu. They went to Kabuire for it, and now retail it on
+the way back.
+
+At noon we got to the village of Kasiane, which is close to two
+rivulets, named Lopanza and Lolela. The headman, a relative of Nsama,
+brought me a large present of flour of dura, and I gave him two fathoms
+of calico.
+
+Floods by these sporadic rainfalls have discoloured waters, as seen in
+Lopanza and Lolela to-day. The grass is all springing up quickly, and
+the Maleza growing fast. The trees generally in full foliage. Different
+shades of green, the dark prevailing; especially along rivulets, and the
+hills in the distance are covered with dark blue haze. Here, in Lobemba,
+they are gentle slopes of about 200 or 300 feet, and sandstone crops out
+over their tops. In some parts clay schists appear, which look as if
+they had been fused or were baked by intense heat.
+
+The pugnacious spirit is one of the necessities of life. When people
+have little or none of it, they are subjected to indignity and loss. My
+own men walk into houses where we pass the nights without asking any
+leave, and steal cassava without shame. I have to threaten and thrash to
+keep them honest, while if we are at a village where the natives are a
+little pugnacious they are as meek as sucking doves. The peace plan
+involves indignity and wrong. I give little presents to the headmen, and
+to some extent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is indeed much
+appreciated, and produces profound hand-clapping.
+
+_17th December, 1872._--It looked rainy, but we waited half-an-hour, and
+then went on one hour and a half, when it set in and forced us to seek
+shelter in a village. The head of it was very civil, and gave us two
+baskets of cassava, and one of dura. I gave a small present first. The
+district is called Kisinga, and flanks the Kalongweze.
+
+_18th December, 1872._--Over same flat pollarded forest until we
+reached the Kalongwese Kiver on the right bank, and about a quarter of a
+mile east of the confluence of the Luena or Kisaka. This side of the
+river is called Kisinga, the other is Chama's and Kisinga too. The Luena
+comes from Jange in Casembe's land, or W.S.W. of this. The Kalongwese
+comes from the S.E. of this, and goes away N.W. The donkey sends a foot
+every now and then through the roof of cavities made apparently by ants,
+and sinks down 18 inches or more and nearly falls. These covered hollows
+are right in the paths.
+
+_19th December, 1872._--So cloudy and wet that no observations can be
+taken for latitude and longitude at this real geographical point. The
+Kalongwese is sixty or eighty yards wide and four yards deep, about a
+mile above the confluence of the Luena. We crossed it in very small
+canoes, and swamped one twice, but no one was lost. Marched S. about
+1-1/4 hour.
+
+_20th December, 1872._--Shut in by heavy clouds. Wait to see if it will
+clear up. Went on at 7.15, drizzling as we came near the Mozumba or
+chiefs stockade. A son of Chama tried to mislead us by setting out west,
+but the path being grass-covered I objected, and soon came on to the
+large clear path. The guide ran off to report to the son, but we kept on
+our course, and he and the son followed us. We were met by a party, one
+of whom tried to regale us by vociferous singing and trumpeting on an
+antelope's horn, but I declined the deafening honour. Had we suffered
+the misleading we should have come here to-morrow afternoon.
+
+A wet bed last night, for it was in the canoe that was upset. It was so
+rainy that there was no drying it.
+
+_21st December, 1872._--Arrived at Chama's. Heavy clouds drifting past,
+and falling drizzle. Chama's brother tried to mislead us yesterday, in
+hopes of making us wander hopelessly and helplessly. Failing in this,
+from my refusal to follow a grass-covered path, he ran before us to the
+chief's stockade, and made all the women flee, which they did, leaving
+their chickens damless. We gave him two handsome cloths, one for himself
+and one for Chama, and said we wanted food only, and would buy it. They
+are accustomed to the bullying of half-castes, who take what they like
+for nothing. They are alarmed at our behaviour to-day, so we took quiet
+possession of the stockade, as the place that they put us in was on the
+open defenceless plain. Seventeen human skulls ornament the stockade.
+They left their fowls, and pigeons. There was no bullying. Our women
+went in to grind food, and came out without any noise. This flight seems
+to be caused by the foolish brother of the chief, and it is difficult to
+prevent stealing by my horde. The brother came drunk, and was taking off
+a large sheaf of arrows, when we scolded and prevented him.
+
+_22nd December, 1872._--We crossed a rivulet at Chama's village ten
+yards wide and thigh deep, and afterwards in an hour and a half came to
+a sedgy stream which we could barely cross. We hauled a cow across
+bodily. Went on mainly south, and through much bracken.
+
+_23rd December, 1872._--Off at 6 A.M. in a mist, and in an hour and a
+quarter came to three large villages by three rills called Misangwa, and
+much sponge; went on to other villages south, and a stockade.
+
+_24th December, 1872._--Cloud in sky with drifting clouds from S. and
+S.W. Very wet and drizzling. Sent back Chama's arrows, as his foolish
+brother cannot use them against us now; there are 215 in the bundle.
+Passed the Lopopussi running west to the Lofubu about seven yards wide,
+it flows fast over rocks with heavy aquatic plants. The people are not
+afraid of us here as they were so distressingly elsewhere: we hope to
+buy food here.
+
+_25th December, 1872, Christmas Day._--I thank the good Lord for the
+good gift of His Son Christ Jesus our Lord. Slaughtered an ox, and gave
+a fundo and a half to each of the party. This is our great day, so we
+rest. It is cold and wet, day and night. The headman is gracious and
+generous, which is very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing to
+sell, or stop to speak, or show the way.
+
+The White Nile carrying forward its large quasi-tidal wave presents a
+mass of water to the Blue Nile, which acts as a buffer to its rapid
+flood. The White Nile being at a considerable height when the Blue
+rushes down its steep slopes, presents its brother Nile with a soft
+cushion into which it plunges, and is restrained by the _vis inertiae_ of
+the more slowly moving river, and, both united, pass on to form the
+great inundation of the year in Lower Egypt. The Blue River brings down
+the heavier portion of the Nile deposit, while the White River comes
+down with the black finely divided matter from thousands of square miles
+of forest in Manyuema, which probably gave the Nile its name, and is in
+fact the real fertilizing ingredient in the mud that is annually left.
+Some of the rivers in Manyuema, as the Luia and Machila, are of inky
+blackness, and make the whole main stream of a very Nilotic hue. An
+acquaintance with these dark flowing rivers, and scores of rills of
+water tinged as dark as strong tea, was all my reward for plunging
+through the terrible Manyuema mud or "glaur."
+
+_26th December, 1872._--Along among the usual low tree-covered hills of
+red and yellow and green schists--paths wet and slippery. Came to the
+Lofubu, fifteen yards broad and very deep, water clear, flowing
+north-west to join Luena or Kisaka, as the Lopopussi goes west too into
+Lofubu it becomes large as we saw. We crossed by a bridge, and the
+donkey swam with men on each side of him. We came to three villages on
+the other side with many iron furnaces. Wet and drizzling weather made
+us stop soon. A herd of buffaloes, scared by our party, rushed off and
+broke the trees in their hurry, otherwise there is no game or marks of
+game visible.
+
+_27th December, 1872._--Leave the villages on the Lofubu. A cascade
+comes down on our left. The country undulating deeply, the hills, rising
+at times 300 to 400 feet, are covered with stunted wood. There is much
+of the common bracken fern and hart's-tongue. We cross one rivulet
+running to the Lofubu, and camp by a blacksmith's rill in the jungle. No
+rain fell to-day for a wonder, but the lower tier of clouds still drifts
+past from N.W.
+
+I killed a Naia Hadje snake seven feet long here, he reared up before me
+and turned to fight. The under north-west stratum of clouds is composed
+of fluffy cottony masses, the edges spread out as if on an electrical
+machine--the upper or south-east is of broad fields like striated cat's
+hair. The N.W. flies quickly, the S.E. slowly away where the others come
+from. No observations have been possible through most of this month.
+People assert that the new moon will bring drier weather, and the clouds
+are preparing to change the N.W. lower stratum into S.E., ditto, ditto,
+and the N.W. will be the upper tier.
+
+A man, ill and unable to come on, was left all night in the rain,
+without fire. We sent men back to carry him. Wet and cold. We are
+evidently ascending as we come near the Chambeze. The N.E. clouds came
+up this morning to meet the N.W. and thence the S.E. came across as if
+combating the N.W. So as the new moon comes soon, it may be a real
+change to drier weather.
+
+4 P.M.--The man carried in here is very ill; we must carry him
+to-morrow.
+
+_29th December, 1872._--Our man Chipangawazi died last night and was
+buried this morning. He was a quiet good man, his disease began at
+Kampamba's. New moon last night.
+
+_29th, or 1st January, 1873._--I am wrong two days.
+
+_29th December, 1872._--After the burial and planting four branches of
+Moringa at the corners of the grave we went on southwards 3-1/4 hours to
+a river, the Luongo, running strongly west and south to the Luapula,
+then after one hour crossed it, twelve yards wide and waist deep. We met
+a man with four of his kindred stripping off bark to make bark-cloth: he
+gives me the above information about the Luongo.
+
+_1st January, 1873. (30th.)_--Came on at 6 A.M. very cold. The rains
+have ceased for a time. Arrive at the village of the man who met us
+yesterday. As we have been unable to buy food, through the illness and
+death of Chipangawazi, I camp here.
+
+_2nd January, 1873._--Thursday--Wednesday was the 1st, I was two days
+wrong.
+
+_3rd January, 1873._--The villagers very anxious to take us to the west
+to Chikumbi's, but I refused to follow them, and we made our course to
+the Luongo. Went into the forest south without a path for 1-1/2 hour,
+then through a flat forest, much fern and no game. We camped in the
+forest at the Situngula Rivulet. A little quiet rain through the night.
+A damp climate this--lichens on all the trees, even on those of 2 inches
+diameter. Our last cow died of injuries received in crossing the Lofubu.
+People buy it for food, so it is not an entire loss.
+
+_4th January, 1873._--March south one hour to the Lopoposi or Lopopozi
+stream of 25 or 30 feet, and now breast deep, flowing fast southwards to
+join the Chambeze. Camped at Ketebe's at 2 P.M. on the Rivulet Kizima
+after very heavy rain.
+
+_5th January, 1873._--A woman of our party is very ill; she will require
+to be carried to-morrow.
+
+_6th January, 1873._--Ketebe or Kapesha very civil and generous. He sent
+three men to guide us to his elder brother Chungu. The men drum and sing
+harshly for him continually. I gave him half-a-pound of powder, and he
+lay on his back rolling and clapping his hands, and all his men
+lulliloed; then he turned on his front, and did the same. The men are
+very timid--no wonder, the Arab slaves do as they choose with them. The
+women burst out through, the stockade in terror when my men broke into
+a chorus as they were pitching my tent. Cold, cloudy, and drizzling.
+Much cultivation far from the stockades.
+
+The sponges here are now full and overflowing, from the continuous and
+heavy rains. Crops of mileza, maize, cassava, dura, tobacco, beans,
+ground-nuts, are growing finely. A border is made round each patch,
+manured by burning the hedge, and castor-oil plants, pumpkins,
+calabashes, are planted in it to spread out over the grass.
+
+_7th January, 1873._--A cold rainy day keeps us in a poor village very
+unwillingly. 3 P.M. Fair, after rain all the morning--on to the Rivulet
+Kamalopa, which runs to Kamolozzi and into Kapopozi.
+
+_8th January, 1873._--Detained by heavy continuous rains in the village
+Moenje. We are near Lake Bangweolo and in a damp region. Got off in the
+afternoon in a drizzle; crossed a rill six feet wide, but now very deep,
+and with large running sponges on each side; it is called the Kamalopa,
+then one hour beyond came to a sponge, and a sluggish rivulet 100 yards
+broad with broad sponges on either bank waist deep, and many leeches.
+Came on through flat forest as usual S.W. and S.
+
+[We may here call attention to the alteration of the face of the country
+and the prominent notice of "sponges." His men speak of the march from
+this point as one continual plunge in and out of morass, and through
+rivers which were only distinguishable from the surrounding waters by
+their deep currents and the necessity for using canoes. To a man reduced
+in strength and chronically affected with dysenteric symptoms ever
+likely to be aggravated by exposure, the effect may be well conceived!
+It is probable that had Dr. Livingstone been at the head of a hundred
+picked Europeans, every man would have been down within the next
+fortnight. As it is, we cannot help thinking of his company of
+followers, who must have been well led and under the most thorough
+control to endure these marches at all, for nothing cows the African so
+much as rain. The next day's journey may be taken as a specimen of the
+hardships every one had to endure:--]
+
+_9th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. After an hour we crossed the
+rivulet and sponge of Nkulumuna, 100 feet of rivulet and 200 yards of
+flood, besides some 200 yards of sponge full and running off; we then,
+after another hour, crossed the large rivulet Lopopozi by a bridge which
+was 45 feet long, and showed the deep water; then 100 yards of flood
+thigh deep, and 200 or 300 yards of sponge. After this we crossed two
+rills called Linkanda and their sponges, the rills in flood 10 or 12
+feet broad and thigh deep. After crossing the last we came near the
+Mosumba, and received a message to build our sheds in the forest, which
+we did.
+
+Chungu knows what a nuisance a Safari (caravan) makes itself. Cloudy
+day, and at noon heavy rain from N.W. The headman on receiving two
+cloths said he would converse about our food and show it to-morrow. No
+observations can be made, from clouds and rain.
+
+_10th January, 1873._--Mosumba of Chungu. Rest to-day and get an insight
+into the ford: cold rainy weather. When we prepared to visit Chungu, we
+received a message that he had gone to his plantations to get millet. He
+then sent for us at 1 P.M. to come, but on reaching the stockade we
+heard a great Kelele, or uproar, and found it being shut from terror. We
+spoke to the inmates but in vain, so we returned. Chungu says that we
+should put his head on a pole like Casembe's! We shall go on without him
+to-morrow. The terror guns have inspired is extreme.
+
+_11th January, 1873._--Chungu sent a goat and big basket of flour, and
+excused his fears because guns had routed Casembe and his head was put
+on a pole; it was his young men that raised the noise. We remain to buy
+food, as there is scarcity at Mombo, in front. Cold and rainy weather,
+never saw the like; but this is among the sponges of the Nile and near
+the northern shores of Bangweolo.
+
+_12th January, 1873._--A dry day enabled us to move forward an hour to a
+rivulet and sponge, but by ascending it we came to its head and walked
+over dryshod, then one hour to another broad rivulet--Pinda, sluggish,
+and having 100 yards of sponge on each side. This had a stockaded
+village, and the men in terror shut the gates. Our men climbed over and
+opened them, but I gave the order to move forward through flat forest
+till we came to a running rivulet of about twenty feet, but with 100
+yards of sponge on each side. The white sand had come out as usual and
+formed the bottom. Here we entered a village to pass the night. We
+passed mines of fine black iron ore ("motapo"); it is magnetic.
+
+_13th January, 1873._--Storm-stayed by rain and cold at the village on
+the Rivulet Kalambosi, near the Chambeze. Never was in such a spell of
+cold rainy weather except in going to Loanda in 1853. Sent back for
+food.
+
+_14th January, 1873._--Went on dry S.E. and then S. two hours to River
+Mozinga, and marched parallel to it till we came to the confluence of
+Kasie. Mosinga, 25 feet, waist deep, with 150 yards of sponge on right
+bank and about 50 yards on left. There are many plots of cassava, maize,
+millet, dura, ground-nuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded with
+strong high hedges skilfully built, and manured with wood ashes. The
+villagers are much afraid of us. After 4-1/2 hours we were brought up by
+the deep rivulet Mpanda, to be crossed to-morrow in canoes. There are
+many flowers in the forest: marigolds, a white jonquil-looking flower
+without smell, many orchids, white, yellow, and pink Asclepias, with
+bunches of French-white flowers, clematis--_Methonica gloriosa_,
+gladiolus, and blue and deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starry
+seed-vessels, and spikelets of brownish red and yellow. Besides these
+there are beautiful blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of pretty
+delicate form and but little scent. To this list may be added balsams,
+compositae of blood-red colour and of purple; other flowers of liver
+colour, bright canary yellow, pink orchids on spikes thickly covered all
+round, and of three inches in length; spiderworts of fine blue or yellow
+or even pink. Different coloured asclepedials; beautiful yellow and red
+umbelliferous flowering plants; dill and wild parsnips; pretty flowery
+aloes, yellow and red, in one whorl of blossoms; peas, and many other
+flowering plants which I do not know. Very few birds or any kind of
+game. The people are Babisa, who have fled from the west and are busy
+catching fish in basket traps.
+
+_15th January, 1873._--Found that Chungu had let us go astray towards
+the Lake, and into an angle formed by the Mpande and Lopopussi, and the
+Lake-full of rivulets which are crossed with canoes. Chisupa, a headman
+on the other side of the Mpanda, sent a present and denounced Chungu for
+heartlessness. We explained to one man our change of route and went
+first N.E., then E. to the Monsinga, which we forded again at a deep
+place full of holes and rust-of-iron water, in which we floundered over
+300 yards. We crossed a sponge thigh deep before we came to the Mosinga,
+then on in flat forest to a stockaded village; the whole march about
+east for six hours.
+
+_16th January, 1873._--Away north-east and north to get out of the many
+rivulets near the Lake back to the River Lopopussi, which now looms
+large, and must be crossed in canoes. We have to wait in a village till
+these are brought, and have only got 1-3/4 hour nearly north.
+
+We were treated scurvily by Chungu. He knew that we were near the
+Chambeze, but hid the knowledge and himself too. It is terror of guns.
+
+_17th January, 1873._--We are troubled for want of canoes, but have to
+treat gently with the owners, otherwise they would all run away, as
+they have around Chungu's, in the belief that we should return to punish
+their silly headman. By waiting patiently yesterday, we drew about
+twenty canoes towards us this morning, but all too small for the donkey,
+so we had to turn away back north-west to the bridge above Chungu's. If
+we had tried to swim the donkey across alongside a canoe it would have
+been terribly strained, as the Lopopussi is here quite two miles wide
+and full of rushes, except in the main stream. It is all deep, and the
+country being very level as the rivulets come near to the Lake, they
+become very broad. Crossed two sponges with rivulets in their centre.
+
+Much cultivation in the forest. In the second year the mileza and maize
+are sickly and yellow white; in the first year, with fresh wood ashes,
+they are dark green and strong. Very much of the forest falls for
+manure. The people seem very eager cultivators. Possibly mounds have the
+potash brought up in forming.
+
+_18th January, 1873._--We lost a week by going to Chungu (a worthless
+terrified headman), and came back to the ford of Lopopussi, which we
+crossed, only from believing him to be an influential man who would
+explain the country to us. We came up the Lopopussi three hours
+yesterday, after spending two hours in going down to examine the canoes.
+We hear that Sayde bin Ali is returning from Katanga with much ivory.
+
+_19th January, 1873._--After prayers we went on to a fine village, and
+on from it to the Mononse, which, though only ten feet of deep stream
+flowing S., had some 400 yards of most fatiguing, plunging, deep sponge,
+which lay in a mass of dark-coloured rushes, that looked as if burnt
+off: many leeches plagued us. We were now two hours out. We went on two
+miles to another sponge and village, but went round its head dryshod,
+then two hours more to sponge Lovu. Flat forest as usual.
+
+_20th January, 1873._--Tried to observe lunars in vain; clouded over
+all, thick and muggy. Came on disappointed and along the Lovu 1-1/2
+mile. Crossed it by a felled tree lying over it. It is about six feet
+deep, with 150 yards of sponge. Marched about 2-1/2 hours: very
+unsatisfactory progress.
+
+[In answer to a question as to whether Dr. Livingstone could possibly
+manage to wade so much, Susi says that he was carried across these
+sponges and the rivulets on the shoulders of Chowpere or Chumah.]
+
+_21st January, 1873._--Fundi lost himself yesterday, and we looked out
+for him. He came at noon, having wandered in the eager pursuit of two
+herds of eland; having seen no game for a long time, he lost himself in
+the eager hope of getting one. We went on 2-1/2 hours, and were brought
+up by the River Malalanzi, which is about 15 feet wide, waist deep, and
+has 300 yards or more of sponge. Guides refused to come as Chitunkue,
+their headman, did not own them. We started alone: a man came after us
+and tried to mislead us in vain.
+
+_22nd January, 1873._--We pushed on through many deserted gardens and
+villages, the man evidently sent to lead us astray from our S.E. course;
+he turned back when he saw that we refused his artifice. Crossed another
+rivulet, possibly the Lofu, now broad and deep, and then came to another
+of several deep streams but sponge, not more than fifty feet in all.
+Here we remained, having travelled in fine drizzling rain all the
+morning. Population all gone from the war of Chitoka with this
+Chitunkue.
+
+No astronomical observations worth naming during December and January;
+impossible to take any, owing to clouds and rain.
+
+It is trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives lying and
+misleading us wherever they can. They fear us very, greatly, and with a
+terror that would gratify an anthropologist's heart. Their
+unfriendliness is made more trying by our being totally unable to
+observe for our position. It is either densely clouded, or continually
+raining day and night. The country is covered with brackens, and
+rivulets occur at least one every hour of the march. These are now deep,
+and have a broad selvage of sponge. The lower stratum of clouds moves
+quickly from the N.W.; the upper move slowly from S.E., and tell of rain
+near.
+
+_23rd January, 1873._--We have to send back to villages of Chitunkue to
+buy food. It was not reported to me that the country in front was
+depopulated for three days, so I send a day back. I don't know where we
+are, and the people are deceitful in their statements; unaccountably so,
+though we deal fairly and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tired
+on this watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keep
+everything and every place wet and sloppy.
+
+Our people return with a wretched present from Chitunkue; bad flour and
+a fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. He sent also an exorbitant
+demand for gunpowder, and payment of guides. I refused his present, and
+must plod on without guides, and this is very difficult from the
+numerous streams.
+
+_24th January, 1873._--Went on E. and N.E. to avoid the deep part of a
+large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chief
+would certainly hide them. Went 1-3/4 hour's journey to a large stream
+through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water, amongst sedges
+and sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for fifty yards, and
+the water cold. We plunged in elephants' footprints 1-1/2 hour, then
+came on one hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep,
+bridge covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad deep
+sedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was at
+least 2000 feet broad, or more than 300 yards. The first part, the main
+stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held
+up my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and when he
+sank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, so
+as to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Others
+went on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the side of
+the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear
+stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong current
+came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had the
+first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab-looking man, then
+Amoda, then Chanda, then Wade Sale, and each time I was lifted off
+bodily, and put on another pair of stout willing shoulders, and fifty
+yards put them out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folk
+of our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross over,
+and several came over turn to help me and their friends. The water was
+cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued us. We had to hasten
+on the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rain
+threatened us. After 4 P.M. it came on a pouring cold rain, when we were
+all under cover. We are anxious about food. The Lake is near, but we are
+not sure of provisions, as there have been changes of population. Our
+progress is distressingly slow. Wet, wet, wet; sloppy weather, truly,
+and no observations, except that the land near the Lake being very
+level, the rivers spread out into broad friths and sponges. The streams
+are so numerous that there has been a scarcity of names. Here we have
+Loon and Luena. We had two Loous before, and another Luena.
+
+_25th January, 1873._--Kept in by rain. A man from Unyanyembe joined us
+this morning. He says that he was left sick. Rivulets and sponges again,
+and through flat forest, where, as usual, we can see the slope of the
+land by the leaves being washed into heaps in the direction which the
+water in the paths wished to take. One and a half hours more, and then
+to the River Loou, a large stream with bridge destroyed. Sent to make
+repairs before we go over it, and then passed. The river is deep, and
+flows fast to the S.W., having about 200 yards of safe flood flowing in
+long grass--clear water. The men built their huts, and had their camp
+ready by 3 P.M. A good day's work, not hindered by rain. The country all
+depopulated, so we can buy nothing. Elephants and antelopes have been
+here lately.
+
+_26th January, 1873._--I arranged to go to our next River Luena, and
+ascend it till we found it small enough for crossing, as it has much
+"Tinga-tinga," or yielding spongy soil; but another plan was formed by
+night, and we were requested to go down the Loou. Not wishing to appear
+overbearing, I consented until we were, after two hours' southing,
+brought up by several miles of Tinga-tinga. The people in a fishing
+village ran away from us, and we had to wait for some sick ones. The
+women are collecting mushrooms. A man came near us, but positively
+refused to guide us to Matipa, or anywhere else.
+
+The sick people compelled us to make an early halt.
+
+_27th January, 1873._--On again through streams, over sponges and
+rivulets thigh deep. There are marks of gnu and buffalo. I lose much
+blood, but it is a safety-valve for me, and I have no fever or other
+ailments.
+
+_28th January, 1873._--A dreary wet morning, and no food that we know of
+near. It is drop, drop, drop, and drizzling from the north-west. We
+killed our last calf but one last night to give each a mouthful. At 9.30
+we were allowed by the rain to leave our camp, and march S.E. for two
+hours to a strong deep rivulet ten feet broad only, but waist deep, and
+150 yards of flood all deep too. Sponge about forty yards in all, and
+running fast out. Camped by a broad prairie or Bouga.
+
+_29th January, 1873._--No rain in the night, for a wonder. We tramped
+1-1/4 hour to a broad sponge, having at least 300 yards of flood, and
+clear water flowing S.W., but no usual stream. All was stream flowing
+through the rushes, knee and thigh deep. On still with the same,
+repeated again and again, till we came to broad branching sponges, at
+which I resolved to send out scouts S., S.E., and S.W. The music of the
+singing birds, the music of the turtle doves, the screaming of the
+frankolin proclaim man to be near.
+
+_30th January, 1873._--Remain waiting for the scouts. Manuasera returned
+at dark, having gone about eight hours south, and seen the Lake and two
+islets. Smoke now appeared in the distance, so he turned, and the rest
+went on to buy food where the smoke was. Wet evening.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[26] Bange or hemp in time produces partial idiotcy if smoked in
+excess. It is used amongst all the Interior tribes.
+
+[27] Isaiah i. 8.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations.
+    Obliged to return to Chitunkue's. At the chief's mercy.
+    Agreeably surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very
+    difficult march. Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends
+    scouts out to find villages. Message to Chirubwe. An ant raid.
+    Awaits news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of
+    Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and
+    Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at
+    Matipa's islet. Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit.
+    Tries to go on to Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a
+    demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and
+    detachment sent to Kabinga's. Extraordinary extent of flood.
+    Reaches Kabinga's. An upset. Crosses the Chambeze. The River
+    Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and water. A
+    disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations on fish.
+    Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous
+    state of Dr. Livingstone.
+
+
+_1st February, 1873._--Waiting for the scouts. They return
+unsuccessful--forced to do so by hunger. They saw a very large river
+flowing into the Lake, but did not come across a single soul. Killed our
+last calf, and turn back for four hard days' travel to Chitunkue's. I
+send men on before us to bring food back towards us.
+
+_2nd February, 1873._--March smartly back to our camp of 28th ult. The
+people bear their hunger well. They collect mushrooms and plants, and
+often get lost in this flat featureless country.
+
+_3rd February, 1873._--Return march to our bridge on the Lofu, five
+hours. In going we went astray, and took six hours to do the work of
+five. Tried lunars in vain. Either sun or moon in clouds. On the Luena.
+
+_4th February, 1873._--Return to camp on the rivulet with much
+_Methonica gloriosa_ on its banks. Our camp being on its left bank of
+26th. It took long to cross the next river, probably the Kwale, though
+the elephants' footprints are all filled up now. Camp among deserted
+gardens, which afford a welcome supply of cassava and sweet potatoes.
+The men who were sent on before us slept here last night, and have
+deceived us by going more slowly without loads than we who are loaded.
+
+_5th February, 1873._--Arrived at Chitunkue's, crossing two broad deep
+brooks, and on to the Malalenzi, now swollen, having at least 200 yards
+of flood and more than 300 yards of sponge. Saluted by a drizzling
+shower. We are now at Chitunkue's mercy.
+
+We find the chief more civil than we expected. He said each chief had
+his own land and his own peculiarities. He was not responsible for
+others. We were told that we had been near to Matipa and other chiefs:
+he would give us guides if we gave him a cloth and some powder.
+
+We returned over these forty-one miles in fifteen hours, through much
+deep water. Our scouts played us false both in time and beads: the
+headmen punished them. I got lunars, for a wonder. Visited Chitunkubwe,
+as his name properly is. He is a fine jolly-looking man, of a European
+cast of countenance, and very sensible and friendly. I gave him two
+cloths, for which he seemed thankful, and promised good guides to
+Matipa's. He showed me two of Matipa's men who had heard us firing guns
+to attract one of our men who had strayed; these men followed us. It
+seems we had been close to human habitations, but did not know it. We
+have lost half a month by this wandering, but it was all owing to the
+unfriendliness of some and the fears of all. I begged for a more
+northerly path, where the water is low. It is impossible to describe
+the amount of water near the Lake. Rivulets without number. They are so
+deep as to damp all ardour. I passed a very large striped spider in
+going to visit Chitunkubwe. The stripes were of yellowish green, and it
+had two most formidable reddish mandibles, the same shape as those of
+the redheaded white ant. It seemed to be eating a kind of ant with a
+light-coloured head, not seen elsewhere. A man killed it, and all the
+natives said that it was most dangerous. We passed gardens of dura;
+leaves all split up with hail, and forest leaves all punctured.
+
+_6th February, 1873._--Chitunkubwe gave a small goat and a large basket
+of flour as a return present. I gave him three-quarters of a pound of
+powder, in addition to the cloth.
+
+_7th February, 1873._--This chief showed his leanings by demanding
+prepayment for his guides. This being a preparatory step to their
+desertion I resisted, and sent men to demand what he meant by his words;
+he denied all, and said that his people lied, not he. We take this for
+what it is worth. He gives two guides to-morrow morning, and visits us
+this afternoon.
+
+_8th February, 1873._--The chief dawdles, although he promised great
+things yesterday. He places the blame on his people, who did not prepare
+food on account of the rain. Time is of no value to them. We have to
+remain over to-day. It is most trying to have to wait on frivolous
+pretences. I have endured such vexatious delays. The guides came at last
+with quantities of food, which they intend to bargain with my people on
+the way. A Nassicker who carried my saddle was found asleep near my
+camp.
+
+_9th February, 1873._--Slept in a most unwholesome, ruined village. Rank
+vegetation had run over all, and the soil smelled offensively. Crossed a
+sponge, then a rivulet, and sponge running into the Miwale Eiver, then
+by a rocky passage we crossed the Mofiri, or great Tinga-tinga, a water
+running strongly waist and breast deep, above thirty feet broad here,
+but very much broader below. After this we passed two more rills and the
+River Methonua, but we build a camp above our former one. The human
+ticks called "papasi" by the Suaheli, and "karapatos" by the Portuguese,
+made even the natives call out against their numbers and ferocity.
+
+_10th February, 1873._--Back again to our old camp on the Lovu or Lofu
+by the bridge. We left in a drizzle, which continued from 4 A.M. to 1
+P.M. We were three hours in it, and all wetted, just on reaching camp by
+200 yards, of flood mid-deep; but we have food.
+
+_11th February, 1873._--Our guides took us across country, where we saw
+tracks of buffaloes, and in a meadow, the head of a sponge, we saw a
+herd of Hartebeests. A drizzly night was followed by a morning of cold
+wet fog, but in three hours we reached our old camp: it took us six
+hours to do this distance before, and five on our return. We camped on a
+deep bridged stream, called the Kiachibwe.
+
+_12th February, 1873._--We crossed the Kasoso, which joins the Mokisya,
+a river we afterwards crossed: it flows N.W., then over the Mofungwe.
+The same sponges everywhere.
+
+_13th February, 1873._--In four hours we came within sight of the Luena
+and Lake, and saw plenty of elephants and other game, but very shy. The
+forest trees are larger. The guides are more at a loss than we are, as
+they always go in canoes in the flat rivers and rivulets. Went E., then
+S.E. round to S.
+
+_14th February, 1873._--Public punishment to Chirango for stealing
+beads, fifteen cuts; diminished his load to 40 lbs., giving him blue and
+white beads to be strung. The water stands so high in the paths that I
+cannot walk dryshod, and I found in the large bougas or prairies in
+front, that it lay knee deep, so I sent on two men to go to the first
+villages of Matipa for large canoes to navigate the Lake, or give us a
+guide to go east to the Chambeze, to go round on foot. It was Halima
+who informed on Chirango, as he offered her beads for a cloth of a kind
+which she knew had not hitherto been taken out of the baggage. This was
+so far faithful in her, but she has an outrageous tongue. I remain
+because of an excessive haemorrhagic discharge.
+
+[We cannot but believe Livingstone saw great danger in these constant
+recurrences of his old disorder: we find a trace of it in the solemn
+reflections which he wrote in his pocket-book, immediately under the
+above words:--]
+
+If the good Lord gives me favour, and permits me to finish my work, I
+shall thank and bless Him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain, and
+travel; this trip has made my hair all grey.
+
+_15th February, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Killed our last goat while
+waiting for messengers to return from Matipa's. Evening: the messenger
+came back, having been foiled by deep tinga-tinga and bouga. He fired
+his gun three times, but no answer came, so as he had slept one night
+away he turned, but found some men hunting, whom he brought with him.
+They say that Matipa is on Chirube islet, a good man too, but far off
+from this.
+
+_16th February, 1873._--Sent men by the hunter's canoe to Chirube, with
+a request to Matipa to convey us west if he has canoes, but, if not, to
+tell us truly, and we will go east and cross the Chambeze where it is
+small. Chitunkubwe's men ran away, refusing to wait till we had
+communicated with Matipa. Here the water stands underground about
+eighteen inches from the surface. The guides played us false, and this
+is why they escaped.
+
+_17th February, 1873._--The men will return to-morrow, but they have to
+go all the way out to the islet of Chirube to Matipa's.
+
+Suffered a furious attack at midnight from the red Sirafu or Driver
+ants. Our cook fled first at their onset. I lighted a candle, and
+remembering Dr. Van der Kemp's idea that no animal will attack man
+unprovoked, I lay still. The first came on my foot quietly, then some
+began to bite between the toes, then the larger ones swarmed over the
+foot and bit furiously, and made the blood start out. I then went out of
+the tent, and my whole person was instantly covered as close as
+small-pox (not confluent) on a patient. Grass fires were lighted, and my
+men picked some off my limbs and tried to save me. After battling for an
+hour or two they took me into a hut not yet invaded, and I rested till
+they came, the pests, and routed me out there too! Then came on a steady
+pour of rain, which held on till noon, as if trying to make us
+miserable. At 9 A.M. I got back into my tent. The large Sirafu have
+mandibles curved like reaping-sickles, and very sharp--as fine at the
+point as the finest needle or a bee's sting. Their office is to remove
+all animal refuse, cockroaches, &c., and they took all my fat. Their
+appearance sets every cockroach in a flurry, and all ants, white and
+black, get into a panic. On man they insert the sharp curved mandibles,
+and then with six legs push their bodies round so as to force the points
+by lever power. They collect in masses in their runs and stand with
+mandibles extended, as if defying attack. The large ones stand thus at
+bay whilst the youngsters hollow out a run half an inch wide, and about
+an inch deep. They remained with us till late in the afternoon, and we
+put hot ashes on the defiant hordes. They retire to enjoy the fruits of
+their raid, and come out fresh another day.
+
+_18th February, 1873._--We wait hungry and cold for the return of the
+men who have gone to Matipa, and hope the good Lord will grant us
+influence with this man.
+
+Our men have returned to-day, having obeyed the native who told them to
+sleep instead of going to Matipa. They bought food, and then believed
+that the islet Chirube was too far off, and returned with a most lame
+story. We shall make the best of it by going N.W., to be near the islets
+and buy food, till we can communicate with Matipa. If he fails us by
+fair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The men say fear of me
+makes them act very cowardly. I have gone amongst the whole population
+kindly and fairly, but I fear I must now act rigidly, for when they hear
+that we have submitted to injustice, they at once conclude that we are
+fair game for all, and they go to lengths in dealing falsely that they
+would never otherwise attempt. It is, I can declare, not my nature, nor
+has it been my practice, to go as if "my back were up."
+
+_19th February, 1873._--A cold wet morning keeps us in this
+uncomfortable spot. When it clears up we go to an old stockade, to be
+near an islet to buy food. The people, knowing our need, are
+extortionate. We went on at 9 A.M. over an extensive water-covered
+plain. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and then in it we went
+westward, in branches of the Luena, very deep and flowing W. for three
+hours. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and we were then near
+enough to hear Bangweolo bellowing. The water on the plain is four,
+five, and seven feet deep. There are rushes, ferns, papyrus, and two
+lotuses, in abundance. Many dark grey caterpillars clung to the grass
+and were knocked off as we paddled or poled. Camped in an old village of
+Matipa's, where, in the west, we see the Luena enter Lake Bangweolo; but
+all is flat prairie or buga, filled with fast-flowing water, save a few
+islets covered with palms and trees. Rain continued sprinkling us from
+the N.W. all the morning. Elephants had run riot over the ruins, eating
+a species of grass now in seed. It resembles millet, and the donkey is
+fond of it. I have only seen this and one other species of grass in seed
+eaten by the African elephant. Trees, bulbs, and fruits are his
+dainties, although ants, whose hills he overturns, are relished. A large
+party in canoes came with food as soon as we reached our new quarters:
+they had heard that we were in search of Matipa. All are eager for
+calico, though they have only raw cassava to offer. They are clothed in
+bark-cloth and skins. Without canoes no movement can be made in any
+direction, for it is water everywhere, water above and water below.
+
+_20th February, 1873._--I sent a request to a friendly man to give me
+men, and a large canoe to go myself to Matipa; he says that he will let
+me know to-day if he can. Heavy rain by night and drizzling by day. No
+definite answer yet, but we are getting food, and Matipa will soon hear
+of us as he did when we came and returned back for food. I engaged
+another man to send a canoe to Matipa, and I showed him his payment, but
+retain it here till he comes back.
+
+_21st February, 1873._--The men engaged refuse to go to Matipa's, they
+have no honour. It is so wet we can do nothing. Another man spoken to
+about going, says that they run the risk of being killed by some hostile
+people on another island between this and Matipa's.
+
+_22nd February, 1873._--A wet morning. I was ill all yesterday, but
+escape fever by haemorrhage. A heavy mantle of N.W. clouds came floating
+over us daily. No astronomical observation can possibly be taken. I was
+never in such misty cloudy weather in Africa. A man turned up at 9 A.M.
+to carry our message to Matipa; Susi and Chumah went with him. The good
+Lord go with them, and lend me influence and grant me help.
+
+_23rd February, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Rainy.
+
+_24th February, 1873._--Tried hard for a lunar, but the moon was lost in
+the glare of the sun.
+
+_25th February, 1873._--For a wonder it did not rain till 4 P.M. The
+people bring food, but hold out for cloth, which is inconvenient.
+
+Susi and Chumah not appearing may mean that the men are preparing canoes
+and food to transport us.
+
+_25th February, 1873._--Susi returned this morning with good news from
+Matipa, who declares his willingness to carry us to Kabende for the five
+bundles of brass wire I offered. It is not on Chirube, but amid the
+swamps of the mainland on the Lake's north side. Immense swampy plains
+all around except at Kabende. Matipa is at variance with his brothers on
+the subject of the lordship of the lands and the produce of the
+elephants, which are very numerous. I am devoutly thankful to the Giver
+of all for favouring me so far, and hope that He may continue His kind
+aid.
+
+No mosquitoes here, though Speke, at the Victoria Nyanza, said they
+covered the bushes and grass in myriads, and struck against the hands
+and face most disagreeably.
+
+_27th February, 1873._--Waiting for other canoes to be sent by Matipa.
+His men say that there is but one large river on the south of Lake
+Bangweolo, and called Luomba. They know the mountains on the south-east
+as I do, and on the west, but say they don't know any on the middle of
+the watershed. They plead their youth as an excuse for knowing so
+little.
+
+Matipa's men proposed to take half our men, but I refused to divide our
+force; they say that Matipa is truthful.
+
+_28th February, 1873._--No night rain after 8 P.M., for a wonder. Baker
+had 1500 men in health on 15th June, 1870, at lat. 9 deg. 26' N., and 160 on
+sick list; many dead. Liberated 305 slaves. His fleet was thirty-two
+vessels; wife and he well. I wish that I met him. Matipa's men not
+having come, it is said they are employed bringing the carcase of an
+elephant to him. I propose to go near to him to-morrow, some in canoes
+and some on foot. The good Lord help me. New moon this evening.
+
+_1st March, 1873._--Embarked women and goods in canoes, and went three
+hours S.E. to Bangweolo. Stopped on an island where people were drying
+fish over fires. Heavy rain wetted us all as we came near the islet, the
+drops were as large as half-crowns by the marks they made. We went over
+flooded prairie four feet deep, and covered with rushes, and two
+varieties of lotus or sacred lily; both are eaten, and so are papyrus.
+The buffaloes are at a loss in the water. Three canoes are behind. The
+men are great cowards. I took possession of all the paddles and punting
+poles, as the men showed an inclination to move off from our islet. The
+water in the country is prodigiously large: plains extending further
+than the eye can reach have four or five feet of clear water, and the
+Lake and adjacent lands for twenty or thirty miles are level. We are on
+a miserable dirty fishy island called Motovinza; all are damp. We are
+surrounded by scores of miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotus
+plants, but no mosquitoes.
+
+_2nd March, 1873._--It took us 7-1/2 hours' punting to bring us to an
+island, and then the miserable weather rained constantly on our landing
+into the Boma (stockade), which is well peopled. The prairie is ten
+hours long, or about thirty miles by punting. Matipa is on an island
+too, with four bomas on it. A river, the Molonga, runs past it, and is a
+protection.[28]
+
+The men wear a curious head-dress of skin or hair, and large upright
+ears.
+
+_3rd March, 1873._--Matipa paid off the men who brought us here. He says
+that five Sangos or coils (which brought us here) will do to take us to
+Kabende, and I sincerely hope that they will. His canoes are off,
+bringing the meat of an elephant. There are many dogs in the village,
+which they use in hunting to bring elephants to bay. I visited Matipa at
+noon. He is an old man, slow of tongue, and self-possessed; he
+recommended our crossing to the south bank of the Lake to his brother,
+who has plenty of cattle, and to goalong that side where there are few
+rivers and plenty to eat. Kabende's land was lately overrun by
+Banyamwezi, who now inhabit that country, but as yet have no food to
+sell. Moanzabamba was the founder of the Babisa tribe, and used the
+curious plaits of hair which form such a singular head-dress here like
+large ears. I am rather in a difficulty, as I fear I must give the five
+coils for a much shorter task; but it is best not to appear unfair,
+although I will be the loser. He sent a man to catch a Sampa for me, it
+is the largest fish in the Lake, and he promised to have men ready to
+take my men over to-morrow. Matipa never heard from any of the elders of
+his people that any of his forefathers ever saw a European. He knew
+perfectly about Pereira, Lacerda, and Monteiro, going to Casembe, and my
+coming to the islet Mpabala. No trace seems to exist of Captain
+Singleton's march.[29] The native name of Pereira is "Moenda Mondo:" of
+Lacerda, "Charlie:" of Monteiro's party, "Makabalwe," or the donkey men,
+but no other name is heard. The following is a small snatch of Babisa
+lore. It was told by an old man who came to try for some beads, and
+seemed much interested about printing. He was asked if there were any
+marks made on the rocks in any part of the country, and this led to his
+story. Lukerenga came from the west a long time ago to the River
+Lualaba. He had with him a little dog. When he wanted to pass over he
+threw his mat on the water, and this served as a raft, and they crossed
+the stream. When he reached the other side there were rocks at the
+landing place, and the mark is still to be seen on the stone, not only
+of his foot, but of a stick which he cut with his hatchet, and of his
+dog's feet; the name of the place is Uchewa.
+
+_4th March, 1873._--Sent canoes off to bring our men over tothe island
+of Matipa. They brought ten, but the donkey could not come as far
+through the "tinga-tinga" as they, so they took it back for fear that it
+should perish. I spoke to Matipa this morning to send more canoes, and
+he consented. We move outside, as the town swarms with mice, and is very
+closely built and disagreeable. I found mosquitoes in the town.
+
+_5th March, 1873._--Time runs on quickly. The real name of this island
+is Masumbo, and the position may be probably long. 31 deg. 3'; lat. 10 deg. 11'
+S. Men not arrived yet. Matipa very slow.
+
+_6th March, 1873._--Building a camp outside the town for quiet and
+cleanliness, and no mice to run over us at night. This islet is some
+twenty or thirty feet above the general flat country and adjacent water.
+
+At 3 P.M. we moved up to the highest part of the island where we can see
+around us and have the fresh breeze from the Lake. Rainy as we went up,
+as usual.
+
+_7th March, 1873._--We expect our men to-day. I tremble for the donkey!
+Camp sweet and clean, but it, too, has mosquitoes, from which a curtain
+protects me completely--a great luxury, but unknown to the Arabs, to
+whom I have spoken about it. Abed was overjoyed by one I made for him;
+others are used to their bites, as was the man who said that he would
+get used to a nail through the heel of his shoe. The men came at 3 P.M.,
+but eight had to remain, the canoes being too small. The donkey had to
+be tied down, as he rolled about on his legs and would have forced his
+way out. He bit Mabruki Speke's lame hand, and came in stiff from lying
+tied all day. We had him shampooed all over, but he could not eat
+dura--he feels sore. Susi did well under the circumstances, and we had
+plenty of flour ready for all. Chanza is near Kabinga, and this last
+chief is coming to visit me in a day or two.
+
+_8th March, 1873._--I press Matipa to get a fleet of canoes equal to
+our number, but he complains of their being stolen by rebel subjects. He
+tells me his brother Kabinga would have been here some days ago but for
+having lost a son, who was killed by an elephant: he is mourning for him
+but will come soon. Kabinga is on the other side of the Chambeze. A
+party of male and female drummers and dancers is sure to turn up at
+every village; the first here had a leader that used such violent antics
+perspiration ran off his whole frame. I gave a few strings of beads, and
+the performance is repeated to-day by another lot, but I rebel and allow
+them to dance unheeded. We got a sheep for a wonder for a doti; fowls
+and fish alone could be bought, but Kabinga has plenty of cattle.
+
+[Illustration: Dr. Livingstone's Mosquito Curtain.]
+
+There is a species of carp with red ventral fin, which is caught and
+used in very large quantities: it is called "pumbo." The people dry it
+over fires as preserved provisions. Sampa is the largest fish in the
+Lake, it is caught by a hook. The Luena goes into Bangweolo at
+Molandangao. A male Msobe had faint white stripes across the back and
+one well-marked yellow stripe along the spine. The hip had a few faint
+white spots, which showed by having longer hair than the rest; a kid of
+the same species had a white belly.
+
+The eight men came from Motovinza this afternoon, and now all our party
+is united. The donkey shows many sores inflicted by the careless people,
+who think that force alone can be used to inferior animals.
+
+_11th March, 1873._--Matipa says "Wait; Kabinga is coming, and he has
+canoes." Time is of no value to him. His wife is making him pombe, and
+will drown all his cares, but mine increase and plague me. Matipa and
+his wife each sent me a huge calabash of pombe; I wanted only a little
+to make bread with.
+
+By putting leaven in a bottle and keeping it from one baking to another
+(or three days) good bread is made, and the dough being surrounded by
+banana leaves or maize leaves (or even forest leaves of hard texture and
+no taste, or simply by broad leafy grass), is preserved from burning in
+an iron pot. The inside of the pot is greased, then the leaves put in
+all round, and the dough poured in to stand and rise in the sun.
+
+Better news comes: the son of Kabinga is to be here to-night, and we
+shall concoct plans together.
+
+_12th March, 1873._--The news was false, no one came from Kabinga. The
+men strung beads to-day, and I wrote part of my despatch for Earl
+Granville.
+
+_13th March, 1873._--- I went to Matipa, and proposed to begin the
+embarkation of my men at once, as they are many, and the canoes are only
+sufficient to take a few at a time. He has sent off a big canoe to reap
+his millet, when it returns he will send us over to see for ourselves
+where we can go. I explained the danger of setting my men astray.
+
+_14th March, 1873._--Rains have ceased for a few days. Went down to
+Matipa and tried to take his likeness for the sake of the curious hat he
+wears.
+
+_15th March, 1873._--Finish my despatch so far.
+
+_16th March, 1873, Sunday._--Service. I spoke sharply to Matipa for his
+duplicity. He promises everything and does nothing: he has in fact no
+power over his people. Matipa says that a large canoe will come
+to-morrow, and next day men will go to Kabinga to reconnoitre. There may
+be a hitch there which we did not take into account; Kabinga's son,
+killed by an elephant, may have raised complications: blame may be
+attached to Matipa, and in their dark minds it may appear all important
+to settle the affair before having communication with him. Ill all day
+with my old complaint.
+
+[Illustration: Matipa and his Wife.]
+
+_17th March, 1873._--The delay is most trying. So many detentions have
+occurred they ought to have made me of a patient spirit.
+
+As I thought, Matipa told us to-day that it is reported he has some
+Arabs with him who will attack all the Lake people forthwith, and he is
+anxious that we shall go over to show them that we are peaceful.
+
+_18th March, 1873._--Sent off men to reconnoitre at Kabinga's and to
+make a camp there. Rain began again after nine days' dry weather, N.W.
+wind, but in the morning fleecy clouds came from S.E. in patches. Matipa
+is acting the villain, and my men are afraid of him: they are all
+cowards, and say that they are afraid of me, but this is only an excuse
+for their cowardice.
+
+_19th March, 1873._--Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for sparing
+me thus far on the journey of life. Can I hope for ultimate success? So
+many obstacles have arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, Oh! my good
+Lord Jesus.[30]
+
+8 A.M. Got about twenty people off to canoes. Matipa not friendly. They
+go over to Kabinga on S.W. side of the Chambeze, and thence we go
+overland. 9 A.M. Men came back and reported Matipa false again; only one
+canoe had come. I made a demonstration by taking quiet possession of his
+village and house; fired a pistol through the roof and called my men,
+ten being left to guard the camp; Matipa fled to another village. The
+people sent off at once and brought three canoes, so at 11 A.M. my men
+embarked quietly. They go across the Chambeze and build a camp on its
+left bank. All Kabinga's cattle are kept on an island called Kalilo,
+near the mouth of the Chambeze, and are perfectly wild: they are driven
+into the water like buffaloes, and pursued when one is wanted for meat.
+No milk is ever obtained of course.
+
+_20th March, 1873._--Cold N.W. weather, but the rainfall is small, as
+the S.E. stratum comes down below the N.W. by day. Matipa sent two large
+baskets of flour (cassava), a sheep, and a cock. He hoped that we should
+remain with him till the water of the over-flood dried, and help him to
+fight his enemies, but I explained our delays, and our desire to
+complete our work and meet Baker.
+
+_21st March, 1873._--Very heavy N.W. rain and thunder by night, and by
+morning. I gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire, and his wife a string
+of large neck beads, and explained my hurry to be off. He is now all
+fair, and promises largely: he has been much frightened by our warlike
+demonstration. I am glad I had to do nothing but make a show of force.
+
+_22nd March, 1873._--Susi not returned from Kabinga. I hope that he is
+getting canoes, and men also, to transport us all at one voyage. It is
+flood as far as the eye can reach; flood four and six feet deep, and
+more, with three species of rushes, two kinds of lotus, or sacred lily,
+papyrus, arum, &c. One does not know where land ends, and Lake begins:
+the presence of land-grass proves that this is not always overflowed.
+
+_23rd March, 1873._--Men returned at noon. Kabinga is mourning for his
+son killed by an elephant, and keeps in seclusion. The camp is formed on
+the left bank of the Chambeze.
+
+_24th March._--The people took the canoes away, but in fear sent for
+them. I got four, and started with all our goods, first giving a present
+that no blame should follow me. We punted six hours to a little islet
+without a tree, and no sooner did we land than a pitiless pelting rain
+came on. We turned up a canoe to get shelter. We shall reach the
+Chambeze to-morrow. The wind tore the tent out of our hands, and damaged
+it too; the loads are all soaked, and with the cold it is bitterly
+uncomfortable. A man put my bed into the bilge, and never said "Bale
+out," so I was for a wet night, but it turned out better than I
+expected. No grass, but we made a bed of the loads, and a blanket
+fortunately put into a bag.
+
+_25th March, 1873._--Nothing earthly will make me give up my work in
+despair. I encourage myself in the Lord my God, and go forward.
+
+We got off from our miserably small islet of ten yards at 7 A.M., a
+grassy sea on all sides, with a few islets in the far distance. Four
+varieties of rushes around us, triangular and fluted, rise from eighteen
+inches to two feet above the water. The caterpillars seem to eat each
+other, and a web is made round others; the numerous spiders may have
+been the workmen of the nest. The wind on the rushes makes a sound like
+the waves of the sea. The flood extends out in slightly depressed arms
+of the Lake for twenty or thirty miles, and far too broad to be seen
+across; fish abound, and ant-hills alone lift up their heads; they have
+trees on them. Lukutu flows from E. to W. to the Chambeze, as does the
+Lubanseusi also. After another six hours' punting, over the same
+wearisome prairie or Bouga, we heard the merry voices of children. It
+was a large village, on a flat, which seems flooded at times, but much
+cassava is planted on mounds, made to protect the plants from the water,
+which stood in places in the village, but we got a dry spot for the
+tent. The people offered us huts. We had as usual a smart shower on the
+way to Kasenga, where we slept. We passed the Islet Luangwa.
+
+_26th March, 1873._--We started at 7.30, and got into a large stream out
+of the Chambeze, called Mabziwa. One canoe sank in it, and we lost a
+slave girl of Amoda. Fished up three boxes, and two guns, but the boxes
+being full of cartridges were much injured; we lost the donkey's saddle
+too. After this mishap we crossed the Lubanseusi, near its confluence
+with the Chambeze, 300 yards wide and three fathoms deep, and a slow
+current. We crossed the Chambeze. It is about 400 yards wide, with a
+quick clear current of two knots, and three fathoms deep, like the
+Lubanseuse; but that was slow in current, but clear also. There is one
+great lock after another, with thick mats of hedges, formed of aquatic
+plants between. The volume of water is enormous. We punted five hours,
+and then camped.
+
+_27th March, 1873._--I sent canoes and men back to Matipa's to bring all
+the men that remained, telling them to ship them at once on arriving,
+and not to make any talk about it. Kabinga keeps his distance from us,
+and food is scarce; at noon he sent a man to salute me in his name.
+
+_28th March, 1873._--Making a pad for a donkey, to serve instead of a
+saddle. Kabinga attempts to sell a sheep at an exorbitant price, and
+says that he is weeping over his dead child. Mabruki Speke's hut caught
+fire at night, and his cartridge box was burned.
+
+_29th March, 1873._--I bought a sheep for 100 strings of beads. I wished
+to begin the exchange by being generous, and told his messenger so; then
+a small quantity of maize was brought, and I grumbled at the meanness of
+the present: there is no use in being bashful, as they are not ashamed
+to grumble too. The man said that Kabinga would send more when he had
+collected it.
+
+_30th March, 1873, Sunday._--A lion roars mightily. The fish-hawk utters
+his weird voice in the morning, as if he lifted up to a friend at a
+great distance, in a sort of falsetto key.
+
+5 P.M. Men returned, but the large canoe having been broken by the
+donkey, we have to go back and pay for it, and take away about twenty
+men now left. Matipa kept all the payment from his own people, and so
+left us in the lurch; thus another five days is lost.
+
+_31st March, 1873._--I sent the men back to Matipa's for all our party.
+I give two dotis to repair the canoe. Islanders are always troublesome,
+from a sense of security in their fastnesses. Made stirrups of thick
+brass wire four-fold; they promise to do well. Sent Kabinga a cloth, and
+a message, but he is evidently a niggard, like Matipa: we must take him
+as we find him, there is no use in growling. Seven of our men returned,
+having got a canoe from one of Matipa's men. Kabinga, it seems, was
+pleased with the cloth, and says that he will ask for maize from his
+people, and buy it for me; he has rice growing. He will send a canoe to
+carry me over the next river.
+
+_3rd April, 1873._--Very heavy rain last night. Six inches fell in a
+short time. The men at last have come from Matipa's.
+
+_4th April, 1873._--Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, and got a fat one
+for 2-1/2 dotis, to give the party a feast ere we start. The kambari
+fish of the Chambeze is three feet three inches in length.
+
+Two others, the "polwe" and "lopatakwao," all go up the Chambeze to
+spawn when the rains begin. Casembe's people make caviare of the spawn
+of the "pumbo."
+
+[The next entry is made in a new pocket-book, numbered XVII. For the
+first few days pen and ink were used, afterwards a well-worn stump of
+pencil, stuck into a steel penholder and attached to a piece of bamboo,
+served his purpose.]
+
+_5th April, 1873._--March from Kabinga's on the Chambeze, our luggage in
+canoes, and men on land. We punted on flood six feet deep, with many
+ant-hills all about, covered with trees. Course S.S.E. for five miles,
+across the River Lobingela, sluggish, and about 300 yards wide.
+
+_6th April, 1873._--Leave in the same way, but men were sent from
+Kabinga to steal the canoes, which we paid his brother Mateysa
+handsomely for. A stupid drummer, beating the alarm in the distance,
+called us inland; we found the main body of our people had gone on, and
+so by this, our party got separated,[31] and we pulled and punted six or
+seven hours S.W. in great difficulty, as the fishermen we saw refused to
+show us where the deep water lay. The whole country S. of the Lake was
+covered with water, thickly dotted over with lotus-leaves and rushes. It
+has a greenish appearance, and it might be well on a map to show the
+spaces annually flooded by a broad wavy band, twenty, thirty, and even,
+forty miles out from the permanent banks of the Lake: it might be
+coloured light green. The broad estuaries fifty or more miles, into
+which the rivers form themselves, might be coloured blue, but it is
+quite impossible at present to tell where land ends, and Lake begins; it
+is all water, water everywhere, which seems to be kept from flowing
+quickly off by the narrow bed of the Luapula, which has perpendicular
+banks, worn deep down in new red sandstone. It is the Nile apparently
+enacting its inundations, even at its sources. The amount of water
+spread out over the country constantly excites my wonder; it is
+prodigious. Many of the ant-hills are cultivated and covered with dura,
+pumpkins, beans, maize, but the waters yield food plenteously in fish
+and lotus-roots. A species of wild rice grows, but the people neither
+need it nor know it. A party of fishermen fled from us, but by coaxing
+we got them to show us deep water. They then showed us an islet, about
+thirty yards square, without wood, and desired us to sleep there. We
+went on, and then they decamped.
+
+Pitiless pelting showers wetted everything; but near sunset we saw two
+fishermen paddling quickly off from an ant-hill, where we found a hut,
+plenty of fish, and some firewood. There we spent the night, and watched
+by turns, lest thieves should come and haul away our canoes and
+goods. Heavy rain. One canoe sank, wetting everything in her. The leaks
+in her had been stopped with clay, and a man sleeping near the stern had
+displaced this frail caulking. We did not touch the fish, and I cannot
+conjecture who has inspired fear in all the inhabitants.
+
+_7th April, 1873._--Went on S.W., and saw two men, who guided us to the
+River Muanakazi, which forms a connecting link between the River
+Lotingila and the Lolotikila, about the southern borders of the flood.
+Men were hunting, and we passed near large herds of antelopes, which
+made a rushing, plunging sound as they ran and sprang away among the
+waters. A lion had wandered into this world of water and ant-hills, and
+roared night and morning, as if very much disgusted: we could sympathise
+with him! Near to the Muanakazi, at a broad bank in shallow water near
+the river, we had to unload and haul. Our guides left us, well pleased
+with the payment we had given them. The natives beating a drum on our
+east made us believe them to be our party, and some thought that they
+heard two shots. This misled us, and we went towards the sound through
+papyrus, tall rushes, arums, and grass, till tired out, and took refuge
+on an ant-hill for the night. Lion roaring. We were lost in stiff grassy
+prairies, from three to four feet deep in water, for five hours. We
+fired a gun in the stillness of the night, but received no answer; so on
+the _8th_ we sent a small canoe at daybreak to ask for information and
+guides from the village where the drums had been beaten. Two men came,
+and they thought likewise that our party was south-east; but in that
+direction the water was about fifteen inches in spots and three feet in
+others, which caused constant dragging of the large canoe all day, and
+at last we unloaded at another branch of the Muanakazi with a village of
+friendly people. We slept there.
+
+All hands at the large canoe could move her only a few feet. Putting
+all their strength to her, she stopped at every haul with a jerk, as if
+in a bank of adhesive plaister. I measured the crown of a papyrus plant
+or palm, it was three feet across horizontally, its stalk eight feet in
+height. Hundreds of a large dark-grey hairy caterpillar have nearly
+cleared off the rushes in spots, and now live on each other. They can
+make only the smallest progress by swimming or rather wriggling in the
+water: their motion is that of a watch-spring thrown down, dilating and
+contracting.
+
+_9th April, 1873._--After two hours' threading the very winding, deep
+channel of this southern branch of the Muanakazi, we came to where our
+land party had crossed it and gone on to Gandochite, a chief on the
+Lolotikila. My men were all done up, so I hired a man to call some of
+his friends to take the loads; but he was stopped by his relations in
+the way, saying, "You ought to have one of the traveller's own people
+with you." He returned, but did not tell us plainly or truly till this
+morning.
+
+[The recent heavy exertions, coupled with constant exposure and extreme
+anxiety and annoyance, no doubt brought on the severe attack which is
+noticed, as we see in the words of the next few days.]
+
+_10th April, 1873._--The headman of the village explained, and we sent
+two of our men, who had a night's rest with the turnagain fellow of
+yesterday. I am pale, bloodless, and; weak from bleeding profusely ever
+since the 31st of March last: an artery gives off a copious stream, and
+takes away my strength. Oh, how I long to be permitted by the Over Power
+to finish my work.
+
+_12th April, 1873._--Cross the Muanakazi. It is about 100 or 130 yards
+broad, and deep. Great loss of _ai mua_ made me so weak I could hardly
+walk, but tottered along nearly two hours, and then lay down quite
+done. Cooked coffee--our last--and went on, but in an hour I was
+compelled to lie down. Very unwilling to be carried, but on being
+pressed I allowed the men to help me along by relays to Chinama, where
+there is much cultivation. We camped in a garden of dura.
+
+_13th April, 1873._--Found that we had slept on the right bank of the
+Lolotikila, a sluggish, marshy-looking river, very winding, but here
+going about south-west. The country is all so very flat that the rivers
+down here are of necessity tortuous. Fish and other food abundant, and
+the people civil and reasonable. They usually partake largely of the
+character of the chief, and this one, Gondochite, is polite. The sky is
+clearing, and the S.E. wind is the lower stratum now. It is the dry
+season well begun. Seventy-three inches is a higher rainfall than has
+been observed anywhere else, even in northern Manyuema; it was lower by
+inches than here far south on the watershed. In fact, this is the very
+heaviest rainfall known in these latitudes; between fifty and sixty is
+the maximum.
+
+One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees, occupying
+quarters of miles in breadth, and these give way to bouga or prairie
+again. The bouga is flooded annually, but its vegetation consists of dry
+land grasses. Other bouga extend out from the Lake up to forty miles,
+and are known by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums,
+rushes of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic subaqueous
+plants which send up their flowers only to fructify in the sun, and then
+sink to ripen one bunch after another. Others, with great
+cabbage-looking leaves, seem to remain always at the bottom. The young
+of fish swarm, and bob in and out from the leaves. A species of soft
+moss grows on most plants, and seems to be good fodder for fishes,
+fitted by hooked or turned-up noses to guide it into their maws.
+
+One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a hook, which
+enables the animal to hold its mouth close to the plant, as it glides up
+or down, sucking in all the soft pulpy food. The superabundance of
+gelatinous nutriment makes these swarmers increase in bulk with
+extraordinary rapidity, and the food supply of the people is plenteous
+in consequence. The number of fish caught by weirs, baskets, and nets
+now, as the waters decline, is prodigious. The fish feel their element
+becoming insufficient for comfort, and retire from one bouga to another
+towards the Lake; the narrower parts are duly prepared by weirs to take
+advantage of their necessities; the sun heat seems to oppress them and
+force them to flee. With the south-east aerial current comes heat and
+sultriness. A blanket is scarcely needed till the early hours of the
+morning, and here, after the turtle doves and cocks give out their
+warning calls to the watchful, the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkable
+voice. It is pitched in a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as if
+he were calling to some one in the other world. Once heard, his weird
+unearthly voice can never be forgotten--it sticks to one through life.
+
+We were four hours in being ferried over the Loitikila, or Lolotikila,
+in four small canoes, and then two hours south-west down its left bank
+to another river, where our camp has been formed. I sent over a present
+to the headman, and a man returned with the information that he was ill
+at another village, but his wife would send canoes to-morrow to transport
+us over and set us on our way to Muanazambamba, south-west, and over
+Lolotikila again.
+
+_14th April, 1873._--At a branch of the Lolotikila.
+
+_15th April, 1873._--Cross Lolotikila again (where it is only fifty
+yards) by canoes, and went south-west an hour. I, being very weak, had
+to be carried part of the way. Am glad of resting; _ai mua_ flow
+copiously last night. A woman, the wife of the chief, gave a present of
+a goat and maize.
+
+_16th April, 1873._--Went south-west two and a half hours, and crossed
+the Lombatwa River of 100 yards in width, rush deep, and flowing fast in
+aquatic vegetation, papyrus, &c., into the Loitikila. In all about three
+hours south-west.
+
+_17th April, 1873._--A tremendous rain after dark burst all our now
+rotten tents to shreds. Went on at 6.35 A.M. for three hours, and I, who
+was suffering severely all night, had to rest. We got water near the
+surface by digging in yellow sand. Three hills now appear in the
+distance. Our course, S.W. three and three-quarter hours to a village on
+the Kazya River. A Nyassa man declared that his father had brought the
+heavy rain of the 16th on us. We crossed three sponges.
+
+_18th April, 1873._--On leaving the village on the Kazya, we forded it
+and found it seventy yards broad, waist to breast deep all over. A large
+weir spanned it, and we went on the lower side of that. Much papyrus and
+other aquatic plants in it. Fish are returning now with the falling
+waters, and are guided into the rush-cones set for them. Crossed two
+large sponges, and I was forced to stop at a village after travelling
+S.W. for two hours: very ill all night, but remembered that the bleeding
+and most other ailments in this land are forms of fever. Took two
+scruple doses of quinine, and stopped it quite.
+
+_19th April, 1873._--A fine bracing S.E. breeze kept me on the donkey
+across a broad sponge and over flats of white sandy soil and much
+cultivation for an hour and a half, when we stopped at a large village
+on the right bank of,[32] and men went over to the chief Muanzambamba to
+ask canoes to cross to-morrow. I am excessively weak, and but for the
+donkey could not move a hundred yards. It is not all pleasure this
+exploration. The Lavusi hills are a relief tothe eye in this flat
+upland. Their forms show an igneous origin. The river Kazya comes from
+them and goes direct into the Lake. No observations now, owing to great
+weakness; I can scarcely hold the pencil, and my stick is a burden. Tent
+gone; the men build a good hut for me and the luggage. S.W. one and a
+half hour.
+
+_20th April, 1873, Sunday._--Service. Cross over the sponge, Moenda, for
+food and to be near the headman of these parts, Moanzambamba. I am
+excessively weak. Village on Moenda sponge, 7 A.M. Cross Lokulu in a
+canoe. The river is about thirty yards broad, very deep, and flowing in
+marshes two knots from S.S.B. to N.N.W. into Lake.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[28] It will be observed that these islets were in reality slight
+eminences standing above water on the flooded plains which border on
+Lake Bangweolo. The men say that the actual deep-water Lake lay away
+to their right, and on being asked why Dr. Livingstone did not make a
+short cut across to the southern shore, they explain that the canoes
+could not live for an hour on the Lake, but were merely suited for
+punting about over the flooded land.--Ed.
+
+[29] Defoe's book, 'Adventures of Captain Singleton,' is alluded to.
+It would almost appear as if Defoe must have come across some unknown
+African traveller who gave him materials for this work.--Ed.
+
+[30] This was written on his last birthday.--ED.
+
+[31] Dr. Livingstone's object was to keep the land party marching
+parallel to him whilst he kept nearer to the Lake in a canoe.--ED.
+
+[32] He leaves room for a name which perhaps in his exhausted state he
+forgot to ascertain.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi
+    and Chumah's additional details. Great agony in his last
+    illness. Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for
+    the Hill of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses
+    the Mohlamo into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at
+    Chitambo's village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller.
+    The last night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The
+    account of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of
+    the men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is
+    dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the
+    men wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation
+    of the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone.
+    Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart
+    at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and
+    memorial sign-posts left to denote spot.
+
+
+[We have now arrived at the last words written in Dr. Livingstone's
+diary: a copy of the two pages in his pocket-book which contains them is,
+by the help of photography, set before the reader. It is evident that he
+was unable to do more than make the shortest memoranda, and to mark on
+the map which he was making the streams which enter the Lake as he
+crossed them. From the _22nd_ to the _27th_ April he had not strength to
+write down anything but the several dates. Fortunately Susi and Chumah
+give a very clear and circumstantial account of every incident which
+occurred on these days, and we shall therefore add what they say, after
+each of the Doctor's entries. He writes:--]
+
+_21st April, 1873._--Tried to ride, but was forced to lie down, and they
+carried me back to vil. exhausted.
+
+[The men explain this entry thus:--This morning the Doctor tried if he
+were strong enough to ride on the donkey, but he had only gone a short
+distance when he fell to the ground utterly exhausted and faint. Susi
+immediately undid his belt and pistol, and picked up his cap which had
+dropped off, while Chumah threw down his gun and ran to stop the men on
+ahead. When he got back the Doctor said, "Chumah, I have lost so much
+blood, there is no more strength left in my legs: you must carry me." He
+was then assisted gently to his shoulders, and, holding the man's head
+to steady himself, was borne back to the village and placed in the hut
+he had so recently left. It was necessary to let the Chief Muanazawamba
+know what had happened, and for this purpose Dr. Livingstone despatched
+a messenger. He was directed to ask him to supply a guide for the next
+day, as he trusted then to have recovered so far as to be able to march:
+the answer was, "Stay as long as you wish, and when you want guides to
+Kalunganjovu's you shall have them."]
+
+_22nd April, 1873._--Carried on kitanda over Buga S.W. 2-1/4.[33]
+
+[His servants say that instead of rallying, they saw that his strength
+was becoming less and less, and in order to carry him they made a
+kitanda of wood, consisting of two side pieces of seven feet in length,
+crossed with rails three feet long, and about four inches apart, the
+whole lashed strongly together. This framework was covered with grass,
+and a blanket laid on it. Slung from a pole, and borne between two
+strong men, it made a tolerable palanquin, and on this the exhausted
+traveller was conveyed to the next village through a flooded grass
+plain. To render the kitanda more comfortable another blanket was
+suspended across the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and allow
+the air to pass under whilst the sun's rays were fended off fromthe
+sick man. The start was deferred this morning until the dew was off the
+heads of the long grass sufficiently to ensure his being kept tolerably
+dry.
+
+The excruciating pains of his dysenteric malady caused him the greatest
+exhaustion as they marched, and they were glad enough to reach another
+village in 2-1/4 hours, having travelled S.W. from the last point. Here
+another hut was built. The name of the halting-place is not remembered
+by the men, for the villagers fled at their approach; indeed the noise
+made by the drums sounding the alarm had been caught by the Doctor some
+time before, and he exclaimed with thankfulness on hearing it, "Ah, now
+we are near!" Throughout this day the following men acted as bearers of
+the kitanda: Chowpere, Songolo, Chumah, and Adiamberi. Sowfere, too,
+joined in at one time.]
+
+_23rd April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[They advanced another hour and a half through the same expanse of
+flooded treeless waste, passing numbers of small fish-weirs set in such
+a manner as to catch the fish on their way back to the Lake, but seeing
+nothing of the owners, who had either hidden themselves or taken to
+flight on the approach of the caravan. Another village afforded them a
+night's shelter, but it seems not to be known by any particular name.]
+
+_24th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[But one hour's march was accomplished to-day, and again they halted
+amongst some huts--place unknown. His great prostration made progress
+exceedingly painful, and frequently when it was necessary to stop the
+bearers of the kitanda, Chumah had to support the Doctor from falling.]
+
+_25th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[In an hour's course S.W. they arrived at a village in which they found
+a few people. Whilst his servants were busy completing the hut for the
+night's encampment, the Doctor, who was lying in a shady place on the
+kitanda, ordered them to fetch one of the villagers. The chief of the
+place had disappeared, but the rest of his people seemed quite at their
+ease, and drew near to hear what was going to be said. They were asked
+whether they knew of a hill on which four rivers took their rise. The
+spokesman answered that they had no knowledge of it; they themselves,
+said he, were not travellers, and all those who used to go on trading
+expeditions were now dead. In former years Malenga's town, Kutchinyama,
+was the assembling place of the Wabisa traders, but these had been swept
+off by the Mazitu. Such as survived had to exist as best they could
+amongst the swamps and inundated districts around the Lake. Whenever an
+expedition was organised to go to the coast, or in any other direction,
+travellers met at Malenga's town to talk over the route to be taken:
+then would have been the time, said they, to get information about every
+part. Dr. Livingstone was here obliged to dismiss them, and explained
+that he was too ill to continue talking, but he begged them to bring as
+much food as they could for sale to Kalunganjovu's.]
+
+_26th April, 1873._--(No entry except the date.)
+
+[They proceeded as far as Kalunganjovu's town, the chief himself coming
+to meet them on the way dressed in Arab costume and wearing a red fez.
+Whilst waiting here Susi was instructed to count over the bags of beads,
+and, on reporting that twelve still remained in stock, Dr. Livingstone
+told him to buy two large tusks if an opportunity occurred, as he might
+run short of goods by the time they got to Ujiji, and could then
+exchange them with the Arabs there for cloth, to spend on their way to
+Zanzibar.]
+
+To-day, the _27th April, 1873,_ he seems to have been almost dying. No
+entry at all was made in his diary after that which follows, and it must
+have taxed him to the utmost to write:--
+
+"Knocked up quite, and remain--recover--sent to buy milch goats. We are
+on the banks of the Molilamo."
+
+They are the last words that David Livingstone wrote.
+
+From this point we have to trust entirely to the narrative of the men.
+They explain the above sentence as follows: Salimane, Amisi, Hamsani,
+and Laede, accompanied by a guide, were sent off to endeavour if
+possible to buy some milch goats on the upper part of the Molilamo.[34]
+They could not, however, succeed; it was always the same story--the
+Mazitu had taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, sent a substantial
+present of a kid and three baskets of ground-nuts, and the people were
+willing enough to exchange food for beads. Thinking he could eat some
+Mapira corn pounded up with ground-nuts, the Doctor gave instructions to
+the two women M'sozi and M'toweka, to prepare it for him, but he was not
+able to take it when they brought it to him.
+
+_28th April, 1873._--Men were now despatched in an opposite direction,
+that is to visit the villages on the right bank of the Molilamo as it
+flows to the Lake; unfortunately they met with no better result, and
+returned empty handed.
+
+On the _29th April_, Kalunganjovu and most of his people came early to
+the village. The chief wished to assist his guest to the utmost, and
+stated that as he could not be sure that a sufficient number of canoes
+would be forthcoming unless he took charge of matters himself, he should
+accompany the caravan to the crossing place, which was about an hour's
+march from the spot. "Everything should be done for his friend," he
+said.
+
+They were ready to set out. On Susi's going to the hut, Dr. Livingstone
+told him that he was quite unable to walk to the door to reach the
+kitanda, and he wished the men to break down one side of the little
+house, as the entrance was too narrow to admit it, and in this manner to
+bring it to him where he was: this was done, and he was gently placed
+upon it, and borne out of the village.
+
+Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they followed it
+till they came to a reach where the current was uninterrupted by the
+numerous little islands which stood partly in the river and partly in
+the flood on the upper waters. Kalunganjovu was seated on a knoll, and
+actively superintended the embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone told his
+bearers to take him to a tree at a little distance off, that he might
+rest in the shade till most of the men were on the other side. A good
+deal of care was required, for the river, by no means a large one in
+ordinary times, spread its waters in all directions, so that a false
+step, or a stumble in any unseen hole, would have drenched the invalid
+and the bed also on which he was carried.
+
+The passage occupied some time, and then came the difficult task of
+conveying the Doctor across, for the canoes were not wide enough to
+allow the kitanda to be deposited in the bottom of either of them.
+Hitherto, no matter how weak, Livingstone had always been able to sit in
+the various canoes they had used on like occasions, but now he had no
+power to do so. Taking his bed off the kitanda, they laid it in the
+bottom of the strongest canoe, and tried to lift him; but he could not
+bear the pain of a hand being passed under his back. Beckoning to
+Chumah, in a faint voice he asked him to stoop down over him as low as
+possible, so that he might clasp his hands together behind his head,
+directing him at the same how to avoid putting any pressure on the
+lumbar region of the back; in this way he was deposited in the bottom of
+the canoe, and quickly ferried across the Mulilamo by Chowpere, Susi,
+Farijala, and Chumah. The same precautions were used on the other side:
+the kitanda was brought close to the canoe, so as to prevent any
+unnecessary pain in disembarking.
+
+Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo's village, and superintend
+the building of another house. For the first mile or two they had to
+carry the Doctor through swamps and plashes, glad to reach something
+like a dry plain at last.
+
+It would seem that his strength was here at its very lowest ebb. Chumah,
+one of his bearers on these the last weary miles the great traveller was
+destined to accomplish, says that they were every now and then implored
+to stop and place their burden on the ground. So great were the pangs of
+his disease during this day that he could make no attempt to stand, and
+if lifted for a few yards a drowsiness came over him, which alarmed them
+all excessively. This was specially the case at one spot where a tree
+stood in the path. Here one of his attendants was called to him, and, on
+stooping down, he found him unable to speak from faintness. They
+replaced him in the kitanda, and made the best of their way on the
+journey. Some distance further on great thirst oppressed him; he asked
+them if they had any water, but, unfortunately for once, not a drop was
+to be procured. Hastening on for fear of getting too far separated from
+the party in advance, to their great comfort they now saw Farijala
+approaching with some which Susi had thoughtfully sent off from
+Chitambo's village.
+
+Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would not complete
+their task, for again at a clearing the sick man entreated them to place
+him on the ground, and to let him stay where he was. Fortunately at this
+moment some of the outlying huts of the village came in sight, and they
+tried to rally him by telling him that he would quickly be in the house
+that the others had gone on to build, but they were obliged as it was to
+allow him to remain for an hour in the native gardens outside the town.
+
+On reaching their companions it was found that the work was not quite
+finished, and it became necessary therefore to lay him under the broad
+eaves of a native hut till things were ready.
+
+Chitambo's village at this time was almost empty. When the crops are
+growing it is the custom to erect little temporary houses in the fields,
+and the inhabitants, leaving their more substantial huts, pass the time
+in watching their crops, which are scarcely more safe by day than by
+night; thus it was that the men found plenty of room and shelter ready
+to their hand. Many of the people approached the spot where he lay whose
+praises had reached them in previous years, and in silent wonder they
+stood round him resting on their bows. Slight drizzling showers were
+falling, and as soon as possible his house was made ready and banked
+round with earth.
+
+Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and grass,
+occuping a position across and near to the bay-shaped end of the hut: in
+the bay itself bales and boxes were deposited, one of the latter doing
+duty for a table, on which the medicine chest and sundry other things
+were placed. A fire was lighted outside, nearly opposite the door,
+whilst the boy Majwara slept just within to attend to his master's wants
+in the night.
+
+On the _30th April, 1873,_ Chitambo came early to pay a visit of
+courtesy, and was shown into the Doctor's presence, but he was obliged
+to send him away, telling him to come again on the morrow, when he hoped
+to have more strength to talk to him, and he was not again disturbed. In
+the afternoon he asked Susi to bring his watch to the bedside, and
+explained to him the position in which to hold his hand, that it might
+lie in the palm whilst he slowly turned the key.
+
+So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently took to their
+huts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep watch, sat round the
+fires, all feeling that the end could not be far off. About 11 P.M.
+Susi, whose hut was close by, was told to go to his master. At the time
+there were loud shouts in the distance, and, on entering, Dr.
+Livingstone said, "Are our men making that noise?" "No," replied Susi;
+"I can hear from the cries that the people are scaring away a buffalo
+from their dura fields." A few minutes afterwards he said slowly, and
+evidently wandering, "Is this the Luapula?" Susi told him they were in
+Chitambo's village, near the Mulilamo, when he was silent for a while.
+Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he said, "Sikun'gapi
+kuenda Luapula?" (How many days is it to the Luapula?)
+
+"Na zani zikutatu, Bwana" (I think it is three days, master), replied
+Susi.
+
+A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed, half said, "Oh
+dear, dear!" and then dozed off again.
+
+It was about an hour later that Susi heard Majwara again outside the
+door, "Bwana wants you, Susi." On reaching the bed the Doctor told him
+he wished him to boil some water, and for this purpose he went to the
+fire outside, and soon returned with the copper kettle full. Calling him
+close, he asked him to bring his medicine-chest and to hold the candle
+near him, for the man noticed he could hardly see. With great difficulty
+Dr. Livingstone selected the calomel, which he told him to place by his
+side; then, directing him to pour a little water into a cup, and to put
+another empty one by it, he said in a low feeble voice, "All right; you
+can go out now." These were the last words he was ever heard to speak.
+
+It must have been about 4 A.M. when Susi heard Majwara's step once
+more. "Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don't know if he is alive." The
+lad's evident alarm made Susi run to arouse Chumah, Chowpere, Matthew,
+and Muanyasere, and the six men went immediately to the hut.
+
+Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Livingstone was not
+lying on it, but appeared to be engaged in prayer, and they
+instinctively drew backwards for the instant. Pointing to him, Majwara
+said, "When I lay down he was just as he is now, and it is because I
+find that he does not move that I fear he is dead." They asked the lad
+how long he had slept? Majwara said he could not tell, but he was sure
+that it was some considerable time: the men drew nearer.
+
+A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box, shed a light
+sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Livingstone was kneeling by the
+side of his bed, his body stretched forward, his head buried in his
+hands upon the pillow. For a minute they watched him: he did not stir,
+there was no sign of breathing; then one of them, Matthew, advanced
+softly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was sufficient;
+life had been extinct some time, and the body was almost cold:
+Livingstone was dead.
+
+His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up, and laid him full
+length on the bed, then, carefully covering him, they went out into the
+damp night air to consult together. It was not long before the cocks
+crew, and it is from this circumstance--coupled with the fact that Susi
+spoke to him some time shortly before midnight--that we are able to
+state with tolerable certainty that he expired early on the 1st of May.
+
+It has been thought best to give the narrative of these closing hours as
+nearly as possible in the words of the two men who attended him
+constantly, both here and in the many illnesses of like character which
+he endured in his last six years' wanderings; in fact from the first
+moment of the news arriving in England, it was felt to be indispensable
+that they should come home to state what occurred.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The men have much to consider as they cower around the watch-fire, and
+little time for deliberation. They are at their furthest point from home
+and their leader has fallen at their head; we shall see presently how
+they faced their difficulties.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Several inquiries will naturally arise on reading this distressing
+history; the foremost, perhaps, will be with regard to the entire
+absence of everything like a parting word to those immediately about
+him, or a farewell line to his family and friends at home. It must be
+very evident to the reader that Livingstone entertained very grave
+forebodings about his health during the last two years of his life, but
+it is not clear that he realized the near approach of death when his
+malady suddenly passed into a more dangerous stage.
+
+It may be said, "Why did he not take some precautions or give some
+strict injunctions to his men to preserve his note-books and maps, at
+all hazards, in the event of his decease? Did not his great ruling
+passion suggest some such precaution?"
+
+Fair questions, but, reader, you have all--every word written, spoken,
+or implied.
+
+Is there, then, no explanation? Yes; we think past experience affords
+it, and it is offered to you by one who remembers moreover how
+Livingstone himself used to point out to him in Africa the peculiar
+features of death by malarial poisoning.
+
+In full recollection of eight deaths in the Zambesi and Shire districts,
+not a single parting word or direction in any instance can be recalled.
+Neither hope nor courage give way as death approaches. In most cases a
+comatose state of exhaustion supervenes, which, if it be not quickly
+arrested by active measures, passes into complete insensibility: this is
+almost invariably the closing scene.
+
+In Dr. Livingstone's case we find some departure from the ordinary
+symptoms.[35] He, as we have seen by the entry of the 18th April was
+alive to the conviction that malarial poison is the basis of every
+disorder in Tropical Africa, and he did not doubt but that he was fully
+under its influence whilst suffering so severely. As we have said, a man
+of less endurance in all probability would have perished in the first
+week of the terrible approach to the Lake, through the flooded country
+and under the continual downpour that he describes. It tried every
+constitution, saturated every man with fever poison, and destroyed
+several, as we shall see a little further on. The greater vitality in
+his iron system very likely staved off for a few days the last state of
+coma to which we refer, but there is quite sufficient to show us that
+only a thin margin lay between the heavy drowsiness of the last few days
+before reaching Chitambo's and the final and usual symptom that brings
+on unconsciousness and inability to speak.
+
+On more closely questioning the men one only elicits that they imagine
+he hoped to recover as he had so often done before, and if this really
+was the case it will in a measure account for the absence of anything
+like a dying statement, but still they speak again and again of his
+drowsiness, which in itself would take away all ability to realize
+vividly the seriousness of the situation. It may be that at the last a
+flash of conviction for a moment lit up the mind--if so, what greater
+consolation can those have who mourn his loss, than the account that the
+men give of what they saw when they entered the hut?
+
+Livingstone had not merely turned himself, he had risento pray; he
+still rested on his knees, his hands were clasped under his head: when
+they approached him he seemed to live. He had not fallen to right or
+left when he rendered up his spirit to God. Death required no change of
+limb or position; there was merely the gentle settling forwards of the
+frame unstrung by pain, for the Traveller's perfect rest had come. Will
+not time show that the men were scarcely wrong when they thought "he yet
+speaketh"--aye, perhaps far more clearly to us than he could have done
+by word or pen or any other means!
+
+Is it, then, presumptuous to think that the long-used fervent prayer of
+the wanderer sped forth once more--that the constant supplication became
+more perfect in weakness, and that from his "loneliness" David
+Livingstone, with a dying effort, yet again besought Him for whom He
+laboured to break down the oppression and woe of the land?
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Before daylight the men were quietly told in each hut what had happened,
+and that they were to assemble. Coming together as soon as it was light
+enough to see, Susi and Chumah said that they wished everybody to be
+present whilst the boxes were opened, so that in case money or valuables
+were in them, all might be responsible. Jacob Wainwright (who could
+write, they knew) was asked to make some notes which should serve as an
+inventory, and then the boxes were brought out from the hut.
+
+Before he left England in 1865, Dr. Livingstone arranged that his
+travelling equipment should be as compact as possible. An old friend
+gave him some exceedingly well-made tin-boxes, two of which lasted out
+the whole of his travels. In these his papers and instruments were safe
+from wet and from white ants, which have to be guarded against more than
+anything else. Besides the articles mentioned below, a number of letters
+and despatches in various stages were likewise enclosed, and one can
+never sufficiently extol the good feeling which after his death
+invested all these writings with something like a sacred care in the
+estimation of his men. It was the Doctor's custom to carry a small
+metallic note-book in his pocket: a quantity of these have come to hand
+filled from end to end, and as the men preserved every one that they
+found, we have a daily entry to fall back upon. Nor was less care shown
+for his rifles, sextants, his Bible and Church-service, and the medicine
+chest.
+
+Jacob's entry is as follows, and it was thoughtfully made at the back
+end of the same note-book that was in use by the Doctor when he died. It
+runs as follows:--
+
+"11 o'clock night, 28th April.
+
+"In the chest was found about a shilling and half, and in other chest
+his hat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of measuring instrument, and in each
+box there was one. 1 compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument. 4
+other kind of measuring instrument. And in other chest 3 drachmas and
+half half scrople."
+
+A word is necessary concerning the first part of this. It will be
+observed that Dr. Livingstone made his last note on the 27th April.
+Jacob, referring to it as the only indication of the day of the month,
+and fancying, moreover, that it was written on the _preceding day,_
+wrote down "28th April." Had he observed that the few words opposite the
+27th in the pocket-book related to the stay at Kalunganjovu's village,
+and not to any portion of the time at Chitambo's, the error would have
+been avoided. Again, with respect to the time. It was about 11 o'clock
+P.M. when Susi last saw his master alive, and therefore this time is
+noted, but both he and Chumah feel quite sure, from what Majwara said,
+that death did not take place till some hours after.
+
+It was not without some alarm that the men realised their more
+immediate difficulties: none could see better than they what
+complications might arise in an hour.
+
+They knew the superstitious horror connected with the dead to be
+prevalent in the tribes around them, for the departed spirits of men are
+universally believed to have vengeance and mischief at heart as their
+ruling idea in the land beyond the grave. All rites turn on this belief.
+The religion of the African is a weary attempt to propitiate those who
+show themselves to be still able to haunt and destroy, as war comes or
+an accident happens.
+
+On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief and people make
+common cause against those who wander through their territory, and have
+the misfortune to lose one of their party by death. Who is to tell the
+consequences? Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences,
+and the men regarded their position with no small apprehension.
+
+Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chumah placed the state of
+affairs before them, and asked what should be done. They received a
+reply from those whom Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, which
+was hearty and unanimous. "You," said they, "are old men in travelling
+and in hardships; you must act as our chiefs, and we will promise to
+obey whatever you order us to do." From this moment we may look on Susi
+and Chumah as the Captains of the caravan. To their knowledge of the
+country, of the tribes through which they were to pass, but, above all,
+to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was maintained throughout,
+their safe return to Zanzibar at the head of their men must, under God's
+good guidance, be mainly attributed.
+
+All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance of Dr.
+Livingstone's decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy would be inflicted
+upon them as compensation for damage done that their means would be
+crippled, and they could hardly expect to pay their way to the coast. It
+was decided that, come what might, the body _must be borne to Zanzibar._
+It was also arranged to take it secretly, if possible, to a hut at some
+distance off, where the necessary preparations could be carried out, and
+for this purpose some men were now despatched with axes to cut wood,
+whilst others went to collect grass. Chumah set off to see Chitambo, and
+said that they wanted to build a place outside the village, if he would
+allow it, for they did not like living amongst the huts. His consent was
+willingly given.
+
+Later on in the day two of the men went to the people to buy food, and
+divulged the secret: the chief was at once informed of what had
+happened, and started for the spot on which the new buildings were being
+set up. Appealing to Chumah, he said, "Why did you not tell me the
+truth? I know that your master died last night. You were afraid to let
+me know, but do not fear any longer. I, too, have travelled, and more
+than once have been to Bwani (the Coast), before the country on the road
+was destroyed by the Mazitu. I know that you have no bad motives in
+coming to our land, and death often happens to travellers in their
+journeys." Reassured by this speech, they told him of their intention to
+prepare the body and to take it with them. He, however, said it would be
+far better to bury it there, for they were undertaking an impossible
+task; but they held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to the
+new hut the same day on the kitanda carefully covered with cloth and a
+blanket.
+
+_2nd May, 1873._--The next morning Susi paid a visit to Chitambo, making
+him a handsome present and receiving in return a kind welcome. It is
+only right to add, that the men speak on all occasions with gratitude of
+Chitambo's conduct throughout, and say that he is a fine generous
+fellow. Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all honours
+should be shown to the dead, and the customary mourning was arranged
+forthwith.
+
+At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people, and accompanied by his
+wives, came to the new settlement. He was clad in a broad red cloth,
+which covered the shoulders, whilst the wrapping of native cotton cloth,
+worn round the waist, fell as low as his ankles. All carried bows,
+arrows, and spears, but no guns were seen. Two drummers joined in the
+loud wailing lamentation, which so indelibly impresses itself on the
+memories of people who have heard it in the East, whilst the band of
+servants fired volley after volley in the air, according to the strict
+rule of Portuguese and Arabs on such occasions.
+
+As yet nothing had been done to the corpse.
+
+A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the principal one.
+It was constructed in such a manner that it should be open to the air at
+the top, and sufficiently strong to defy the attempts of any wild beast
+to break through it. Firmly driven boughs and saplings were planted side
+by side and bound together, so as to make a regular stockade. Close to
+this building the men constructed their huts, and, finally, the whole
+settlement had another high stockade carried completely around it.
+
+Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse on the following
+morning. One of the men, Safene, whilst in Kalunganjovu's district,
+bought a large quantity of salt: this was purchased of him for sixteen
+strings of beads, there was besides some brandy in the Doctor's stores,
+and with these few materials they hoped to succeed in their object.
+
+Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had picked up some
+knowledge of the method pursued in making _post-mortem_ examinations,
+whilst a servant to a doctor at Zanzibar, and at his request, Carras,
+one of the Nassick boys, was told off to assist him. Previous to this,
+however, early on the 3rd May, a special mourner arrived. He came with
+the anklets which are worn on these occasions, composed of rows of
+hollow seed-vessels, fitted with rattling pebbles, and in low monotonous
+chant sang, whilst he danced, as follows:
+
+    Lelo kwa Engerese,
+    Muana sisi oa konda:
+    Tu kamb' tamb' Engerese.
+
+    which translated is--
+
+    To-day the Englishman is dead,
+    Who has different hair from ours:
+    Come round to see the Englishman.
+
+His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied him in the
+ceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads.
+
+The emaciated remains of the deceased traveller were soon afterwards
+taken to the place prepared. Over the heads of Farijala and
+Carras--Susi, Chumah, and Muanyasere held a thick blanket as a kind of
+screen, under which the men performed their duties. Tofike and John
+Wainwright were present. Jacob Wainwright had been asked to bring his
+Prayer Book with him, and stood apart against the wall of the enclosure.
+
+In reading about the lingering sufferings of Dr. Livingstone as
+described by himself, and subsequently by these faithful fellows, one is
+quite prepared to understand their explanation, and to see why it was
+possible to defer these operations so long after death: they say that
+his frame was little more than skin and bone. Through an incision
+carefully made, the viscera were removed, and a quantity of salt was
+placed in the trunk. All noticed one very significant circumstance in
+the autopsy. A clot of coagulated blood, as large as a man's hand, lay
+in the left side,[36] whilst Farijalapointed to the state of the lungs,
+which they describe as dried up, and covered with black and white
+patches.
+
+The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed in a tin box, which
+had formerly contained flour, and decently and reverently buried in a
+hole dug some four feet deep on the spot where they stood. Jacob was
+then asked to read the Burial Service, which he did in the presence of
+all. The body was left to be fully exposed to the sun. No other means
+were taken to preserve it, beyond placing some brandy in the mouth and
+some on the hair; nor can one imagine for an instant that any other
+process would have been available either for Europeans or natives,
+considering the rude appliances at their disposal. The men kept watch
+day and night to see that no harm came to their sacred charge. Their
+huts surrounded the building, and had force been used to enter its
+strongly-barred door, the whole camp would have turned out in a moment.
+Once a day the position of the body was changed, but at no other time
+was any one allowed to approach it.
+
+No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen days'
+exposure. At the end of this period preparations were made for retracing
+their steps. The corpse, by this time tolerably dried, was wrapped round
+in some calico, the leg being bent inwards at the knees to shorten the
+package. The next thing was to plan something in which to carry it, and,
+in the absence of planking or tools, an admirable substitute was found
+by stripping from a Myonga tree enough of the bark in one piece to form
+a cylinder, and in it their master was laid. Over this case a piece of
+sailcloth was sewn, and the whole package was lashed securely to a pole,
+so as to be carried by two men.
+
+Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription on the large Mvula
+tree which stands by the place where the body rested, stating the name
+of Dr. Livingstone and the date of his death, and, before leaving, the
+men gave strict injunctions to Chitambo to keep the grass cleared away,
+so as to save it from the bush-fires which annually sweep over the
+country and destroy so many trees. Besides this, they erected close to
+the spot two high thick posts, with an equally strong cross-piece, like
+a lintel and door-posts in form, which they painted thoroughly with the
+tar that was intended for the boat: this sign they think will remain for
+a long time from the solidity of the timber. Before parting with
+Chitambo, they gave him a large tin biscuit-box and some newspapers,
+which would serve as evidence to all future travellers that a white man
+had been at his village.
+
+The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the tree and the
+timber sign-posts from being touched, but added, that he hoped the
+English would not be long in coming to see him, because there was always
+the risk of an invasion of Mazitu, when he would have to fly, and the
+tree might be cut down for a canoe by some one, and then all trace would
+be lost. All was now ready for starting.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[33] Two hours and a quarter in a south-westerly direction.
+
+[34] The name Molilamo is allowed to stand, but in Dr. Livingstone's
+Map we find it Lulimala, and the men confirm, this pronunciation.--ED.
+
+[35] The great loss of blood may have had a bearing on the case.
+
+[36] It has been suggested by one who attended Dr. Livingstone
+professionally in several dangerous illnesses in Africa, that the
+ultimate cause of death was acute splenitis.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the
+    men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a
+    lion. A disaster at N'Kossu's. Native surgery. Approach
+    Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take
+    the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old
+    road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright
+    disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the
+    Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News
+    of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They
+    reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembe. Chumah
+    meets Lieutenant Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr.
+    Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed.
+    Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding
+    remarks.
+
+
+The homeward march was then begun. Throughout its length we shall
+content ourselves with giving the approximate number of days occupied in
+travelling and halting. Although the memories of both men are
+excellent--standing the severest test when they are tried by the light
+of Dr. Livingstone's journals, or "set on" at any passage of his
+travels--they kept no precise record of the time spent at villages where
+they were detained by sickness, and so the exactness of a diary can no
+longer be sustained.
+
+To return to the caravan. They found on this the first day's journey
+that some other precautions were necessary to enable the bearers of the
+mournful burden to keep to their task. Sending to Chitambo's village,
+they brought thence the cask of tar which they had deposited with the
+chief, and gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This answered
+all purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, with orders
+to send it back to head-quarters, and then continued their course
+through Ilala, led by their guides in the direction of the Luapula.
+
+A moment's inspection of the map will explain the line of country to be
+traversed. Susi and Chumah had travelled with Dr. Livingstone in the
+neighbourhood of the north-west shores of Bangweolo in previous years.
+The last fatal road from the north might be struck by a march in a due
+N.E. direction, if they could but hold out so far without any serious
+misfortune; but in order to do this they must first strike northwards so
+as to reach the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part not
+necessarily far from its exit from the Lake, they could at once lay
+their course for the south end of Tanganyika.
+
+There were, however, serious indications amongst them. First one and
+then the other dropped out of the file, and by the time they reached a
+town belonging to Chitambo's brother--and on the third day only since
+they set out--half their number were _hors de combat_. It was impossible
+to go on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The symptoms were
+intense pain in the limbs and face, great prostration, and, in the bad
+cases, inability to move. The men attributed it to the continual wading
+through water before the Doctor's death. They think that illness had
+been waiting for some further slight provocation, and that the previous
+days' tramp, which was almost entirely through plashy Bougas or swamps,
+turned the scale against them.
+
+Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one leg, and then
+quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly died. Kaniki and Bahati,
+two of the women, expired in a few days, and all looked at its worst. It
+took them a good month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey.
+
+Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and the natives
+day by day brought an abundance of food to the sick men. From them they
+heard that the districts they were now in were notoriously unhealthy,
+and that many an Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave his
+bones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an excursion to
+the westward, and on their return reported a large deep river flowing
+into the Luapula on the left bank. Unfortunately no notice was taken of
+its name, for it would be of considerable geographical interest.
+
+At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of the border
+villages in Ilala the same night, but the next day several fell ill for
+the second time, Susi being quite unable to move.
+
+Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, was fully aware of
+everything that had taken place at Chitambo's, and showed the men the
+greatest kindness. Not a day passed without his bringing them some
+present or other, but there was a great disinclination amongst the
+people to listen to any details connected with Dr. Livingstone's death.
+Some return for their kindness was made by Farijala shooting three
+buffaloes near the town: meat and goodwill go together all over Africa,
+and the liberal sportsman scores points at many a turn. A cow was
+purchased here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twentieth
+day all were sufficiently strong on their legs to push forwards.
+
+The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon hove in sight.
+Putting themselves under a guide, they were conducted to the village of
+Chisalamalama, who willingly offered them canoes for the passage across
+the next day.[37]
+
+As one listens to the report that the men give of this mighty river, he
+instinctively bends his eyes on a dark burden laid in the canoe! How
+ardently would he have scanned it whose body thus passes across these
+waters, and whose spirit, in its last hours' sojourn in this world,
+wandered in thought and imagination to its stream!
+
+It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the width of the
+Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of fully four miles. A man
+could not be seen on the opposite bank: trees looked small: a gun could
+be heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across the
+river--such is the description given by men who were well able to
+compare the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they were
+able to use the "m'phondo," or punting pole, for a distance through
+reeds, then came clear deep water for some four hundred yards, again a
+broad reedy expanse, followed by another deep part, succeeded in turn by
+another current not so broad as those previously paddled across, and
+then, as on the starting side, gradually shoaling water, abounding in
+reeds. Two islands lay just above the crossing-place. Using pole and
+paddle alternately, the passage took them fully two hours across this
+enormous torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo towards the
+north.
+
+A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping beyond the
+Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant was doomed to end
+his career at this spot!
+
+According to custom, a special stable was built for him close to the
+men. In the middle of the night a great disturbance, coupled with the
+shouting of Amoda, aroused the camp. The men rushed out and found the
+stable broken down and the donkey gone. Snatching, some logs, they set
+fire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a lion
+close to the body of the poor animal, which was quite dead. Those who
+had caught up their guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and the
+lion made off. It was evident that the donkey had been seized by the
+nose, and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the guns
+had taken effect. The lion's blood lay in a broad track (for he was
+apparently injured in the back, and could only drag himself along); but
+the footprints of a second lion were too plain to make it advisable to
+track him far in the thick cover he had reached, and so the search was
+abandoned. The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes
+remained near the village, and it is most probable that it went to make
+a feast at Chisalamalama's.
+
+[Illustration: An old Servant destroyed.]
+
+Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were fain to make
+their next stopping-place in a spot where an enormous ant-hill spread
+itself out,--a small island in the waters. A fire was lit, and by
+employing hoes, most of them dug something like a form to sleep in on
+the hard earth.
+
+Thankful to leave such a place, their guide led them next day to the
+village of Kawinga, whom they describe as a tall man, of singularly
+light colour, and the owner of a gun, a unique weapon in these parts,
+but one already made useless by wear and tear. The next village,
+N'kossu's, was much more important. The people, called Kawende, formerly
+owned plenty of cattle, but now they are reduced: the Banyamwesi have
+put them under the harrow, and but few herds remain. We may call
+attention to the somewhat singular fact, that the hump quite disappears
+in the Lake breed; the cows would pass for respectable shorthorns.[38]
+
+A present was made to the caravan of a cow; but it seems that the rule,
+"first catch your hare," is in full force in N'kossu's pastures. The
+animals are exceedingly wild, and a hunt has to be set on foot whenever
+beef is wanted; it was so in this case. Safene and Muanyasere with their
+guns essayed to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old hunter as we
+have seen, was not likely to do much harm; but Safene, firing wildly at
+the cow, hit one of the villagers, and smashed the bone of the poor
+fellow's thigh. Although it was clearly an accident, such things do not
+readily settle themselves down on this assumption in Africa. The chief,
+however, behaved very well. He told them a fine would have to be paid on
+the return of the wounded man's father, and it had better be handed to
+him, for by law the blame would fall on him, as the entertainer of the
+man who had brought about the injury. He admitted that he had ordered
+all his people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred,
+but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been heard.
+They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond to the demand; the
+process adopted to set the broken limb is a sample of native surgery,
+which must not be passed over.
+
+[Illustration: Kawende Surgery.]
+
+First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in length, in
+such a manner that the patient could sit in it with his legs out before
+him. A large leaf was then bound round the fractured thigh, and earth
+thrown in, so that the patient was buried up to the chest. The next act
+was to cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick layer
+of mud; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire lit
+on the top directly over the fracture. To prevent the smoke smothering
+the sufferer, they held a tall mat as a screen before his face, and the
+operation went on. After some time the heat reached the limbs
+underground. Bellowing with fear and covered with perspiration, the man
+implored them to let him out. The authorities concluding that he had
+been under treatment a sufficient time, quickly burrowed down and lifted
+him from the hole. He was now held perfectly fast, whilst two strong men
+stretched the wounded limb with all their might! Splints, duly prepared
+were afterwards bound round it, and we must hope that in due time
+benefit accrued, but as the ball had passed through the limb, we must
+have our doubts on the subject. The villagers told Chuma that after the
+Wanyamwesi engagements they constantly treated bad gunshot-wounds in
+this way with perfect success.
+
+Leaving N'kossu's, they rested one night at another village belonging to
+him, and then made for the territory of the Wa Ussi. Here they met with
+a surly welcome, and were told they must pass on. No doubt the
+intelligence that they were carrying their master's body had a great
+deal to do with it, for the news seemed to spread with the greatest
+rapidity in all directions. Three times they camped in the forest, and
+for a wonder began to find some dry ground. The path lay in the direct
+line of Chawende's town, parallel to the north shore of the Lake, and at
+no great distance from it.
+
+Some time previously a solitary Unyamwesi had attached himself to the
+party at Chitankooi's, where he had been left sick by a passing caravan
+of traders: this man now assured them the country before them was well
+known to him.
+
+Approaching Chawende's, according to native etiquette, Amoda and Sabouri
+went on in front to inform the chief, and to ask leave to enter his
+town. As they did not come back, Muanyasere and Chuma set off after
+them to ascertain the reason of the delay. No better success seemed to
+attend this second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all went
+forward in the track of the four messengers.
+
+In the mean time, Chuma and Muanyasere met Amoda and Sabouri coming back
+towards them with five men. They reported that they had entered the
+town, but found it a very large stockaded place; moreover, two other
+villages of equal size were close to it. Much pombe drinking was going
+on. On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his gun against the
+principal hut innocently enough. Chawende's son, drunk and quarrelsome,
+made this a cause of offence, and swaggering up, he insolently asked
+them how they dared to do such a thing. Chawende interfered, and for the
+moment prevented further disagreeables; in fact, he himself seems to
+have been inclined to grant the favour which was asked: however, there
+was danger brewing, and the men retired.
+
+When the main body met them returning, tired with their fruitless
+errand, a consultation took place. Wood there was none. To scatter about
+and find materials with which to build shelter for the night, would only
+offer a great temptation to these drunken excited people to plunder the
+baggage. It was resolved to make for the town.
+
+When they reached the gate of the stockade they were flatly refused
+admittance, those inside telling them to go down to the river and camp
+on the bank. They replied that this was impossible: that they were
+tired, it was very late, and nothing could be found there to give them
+shelter. Meeting with no different answer, Safene said, "Why stand
+talking to them? let us get in somehow or other;" and, suiting the
+action to the word, they pushed the men back who stood in the gateway.
+Safene got through, and Muanyasere climbed over the top of the stockade,
+followed by Chuma, who instantly opened the gate wide and let his
+companions through. Hostilities might still have been averted had
+better counsel prevailed.
+
+The men began to look about for huts in which to deposit their things,
+when the same drunken fellow drew a bow and fired at Muanyasere. The man
+called out to the others to seize him, which was done in an instant. A
+loud cry now burst forth that the chief's son was in danger, and one of
+the people, hurling a spear, wounded Sabouri slightly in the thigh: this
+was the signal for a general scrimmage.
+
+Chawende's men fled from the town; the drums beat the assembly in all
+directions, and an immense number flocked to the spot from the two
+neighbouring villages, armed with their bows, arrows, and spears. An
+assault instantly began from the outside. N'chise was shot with an arrow
+in the shoulder through the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. Things
+were becoming desperate. Putting the body of Dr. Livingstone and all
+their goods and chattels in one hut, they charged out of the town, and
+fired on the assailants, killing two and wounding several others.
+Fearing that they would only gather together in the other remaining
+villages and renew the attack at night, the men carried these quickly
+one by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built on the
+same side of the river, then crossing over, they fired on the canoes
+which were speeding towards the deep water of Bangweolo, through the
+channel of the Lopupussi, with disastrous results to the fugitive
+people.
+
+Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. By the fortunes
+of war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense quantity of food fell into
+their hands; and they remained for a week to recruit. Once or twice they
+found men approaching at night to throw fire on the roofs of the huts
+from outside, but with this exception they were not interfered with. On
+the last day but one a man approached and called to them at the top of
+his voice not to set fire to the chief's town (it was his that they
+occupied); for the bad son had brought all this upon them; he added that
+the old man had been overruled, and they were sorry enough for his bad
+conduct.
+
+Listening to the account given of this occurrence, one cannot but lament
+the loss of life and the whole circumstances of the fight. Whilst on the
+one hand we may imagine that the loss of a cool, conciliatory, brave
+leader was here felt in a grave degree, we must also see that it was
+known far and wide that this very loss was now a great weakness to his
+followers. There is no surer sign of mischief in Africa than these
+trumpery charges of bewitching houses by placing things on them: some
+such over-strained accusation is generally set in the front rank when
+other difficulties are to come: drunkenness is pretty much the same
+thing in all parts of the world, and gathers misery around it as easily
+in an African village as in an English city. Had the cortege submitted
+to extortion and insult, they felt that their night by the river would
+have been a precarious one--even if they had been in a humour to sleep
+in a swamp when a town was at hand. These things gave occasion to them
+to resort to force. The desperate nature of their whole enterprise in
+starting for Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own stock of
+determination, and now it found vent under evil provocation. If there is
+room for any other feeling than regret, it lies in the fact that, on
+mature consideration and in sober moments, the people who suffered, cast
+the real blame on the right shoulders.
+
+For the next three days after leaving Chawende's they were still in the
+same inundated fringe of Bouga, which surrounds the Lake, and on each
+occasion had to camp at nightfall wherever a resting-place could be
+found in the jungle, reaching Chama's village on the fourth day. A delay
+of forty-eight hours was necessary, as Susi's wife fell ill; and for
+the next few marches she was carried in a kitanda. They met an Unyamwesi
+man here, who had come from Kumbakumba's town in the Wa Ussi district.
+He related to them how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried to
+carry Chawende's town by assault, but had been repulsed both times. It
+would seem that, with the strong footing these invaders have in the
+country, armed as they are besides with the much-dreaded guns, it can
+only be a matter of time before the whole rule, such as it is, passes
+into the hands of the new-comers.
+
+The next night was spent in the open, before coming to the scattered
+huts of Ngumbu's, where a motley group of stragglers, for the most part
+Wabisa, were busy felling the trees and clearing the land for
+cultivation. However, the little community gave them a welcome, in spite
+of the widespread report of the fighting at Chawende's, and dancing and
+drumming were kept up till morning.
+
+One more night was passed in the plain, and they reached a tributary of
+the Lopupussi River, called the M'Pamba; it is a considerable stream,
+and takes one up to the chest in crossing. They now drew near to
+Chiwaie's town, which they describe as a very strong place, fortified
+with a stockade and ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagers
+tried to pick a quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was their
+invariable custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, march at their head,
+whilst the Union Jack and the red colours of Zanzibar were carried in a
+foremost place in the line. Fortunately a chief of some importance came
+up and stopped the discussion, or there might have been more mischief,
+for the men were in no temper to lower their flag, knowing their own
+strength pretty well by this time. Making their settlement close to
+Chiwaie's, they met with much kindness, and were visited by crowds of
+the inhabitants.
+
+Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's village; sleeping
+two nights in the jungle they made Chungu's, and in another day's march
+found themselves, to their great delight, at Kapesha's. They knew their
+road from this point, for on the southern route with Dr. Livingstone
+they had stopped here, and could therefore take up the path that leads
+to Tanganyika. Hitherto their course had been easterly, with a little
+northing, but now they turned their backs to the Lake, which they had
+held on the right-hand since crossing the Luapula, and struck almost
+north.
+
+From Kapesha's to Lake Bangweolo is a three days' march as the crow
+flies, for a man carrying a burden. They saw a large quantity of iron
+and copper wire being made here by a party of Wanyamwesi. The process is
+as follows:--A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped hole in it, is
+firmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is then thrust into it,
+and a line attached to the first few inches which can be coaxed through.
+A number of men haul on this line, singing and dancing in tune, and thus
+it is drawn through the first drill; it is subsequently passed through
+others to render it still finer, and excellent wire is the result.
+Leaving Kapesha they went through many of the villages already
+enumerated in Dr. Livingstone's Diary. Chama's people came to see them
+as they passed by him, and after some mutterings and growlings Casongo
+gave them leave to buy food at his town. Reaching Chama's head-quarters
+they camped outside, and received a civil message, telling them to
+convey his orders to the people on the banks of the Kalongwesi that the
+travellers must be ferried safely across. They found great fear and
+misery prevailing in the neighbourhood from the constant raids made by
+Kumbakumba's men.
+
+Leaving the Kalangwese behind them they made for M'sama's son's town,
+meeting four men on the way who were going from Kumbakumba to Chama to
+beat up recruits for an attack on the Katanga people. The request was
+sure to be met with alarm and refusal, but it served very well to act
+the part taken by the wolf in the fable. A grievance would immediately
+be made of it, and Chama "eaten up" in due course for daring to gainsay
+the stronger man. Such is too frequently the course of native
+oppression. At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight. Already the large
+district of Itawa has tacitly allowed itself to be put under the harrow
+by this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab. Black-mail is levied in all directions,
+and the petty chiefs, although really under tribute to Nsama, are
+sagacious enough to keep in with the powers that be. Kumbakumba showed
+the men a storehouse full of elephants' tusks. A small detachment was
+sent off to try and gain tidings of one of the Nassick boys, John, who
+had mysteriously disappeared a day or two previously on the march. At
+the time no great apprehensions were felt, but as he did not turn up the
+grass was set on fire in order that he might see the smoke if he had
+wandered, and guns were fired. Some think he purposely went off rather
+than carry a load any further; whilst others fear he may have been
+killed. Certain it is that after a five days' search in all directions
+no tidings could be gained either here or at Chama's, and nothing more
+was heard of the poor fellow.
+
+Numbers of slaves were collected here. On one occasion they saw five
+gangs bound neck to neck by chains, and working in the gardens outside
+the towns.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The talk was still about the break up of Casembe's power, for it will be
+recollected that Kumbakumba and Pemba Motu had killed him a short time
+before; but by far the most interesting news that reached them was that
+a party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on their way to
+relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio some months previously.
+
+The chief showed them every kindness during their five days' rest, and
+was most anxious that no mishap should by any chance occur to their
+principal charge. He warned them to beware of hyaenas, at night more
+especially, as the quarter in which they had camped had no stockade
+round it as yet.
+
+Marching was now much easier, and the men quickly found they had crossed
+the watershed. The Lovu ran in front of them on its way to Tanganyika.
+The Kalongwese, we have seen, flows to Lake Moero in the opposite
+direction. More to their purpose it was perhaps to find the terror of
+Kumbakumba dying away as they travelled in a north-easterly direction,
+and came amongst the Mwambi. As yet no invasion had taken place. A young
+chief, Chungu, did all he could for them, for when the Doctor explored
+these regions before, Chungu had been much impressed with him: and now,
+throwing off all the native superstition, he looked on the arrival of
+the dead body as a cause of real sorrow.
+
+Asoumani had some luck in hunting, and a fine buffalo was killed near
+the town. According to native game laws (which in some respects are
+exceedingly strict in Africa), Chungu had a right to a fore leg--had it
+been an elephant the tusk next the ground would have been his, past all
+doubt--in this instance, however, the men sent in a plea that theirs was
+no ordinary case, and that hunger had laws of its own; they begged to be
+allowed to keep the whole carcase, and Chungu not only listened to their
+story, but willingly waived his claim to the chief's share.
+
+It is to be hoped that these sons of Tafuna, the head and father of the
+Amambwi a lungu, may hold their own. They seem a superior race, and this
+man is described as a worthy leader. His brothers Kasonso, Chitimbwa,
+Sombe, and their sister Mombo, are all notorious for their reverence for
+Tafuna. In their villages an abundance of coloured homespun cloth speaks
+for their industry; whilst from the numbers of dogs and elephant-spears
+no further testimony is needed to show that the character they bear as
+great hunters is well deserved.
+
+The steep descent to the Lake now lay before them, and they came to
+Kasakalawe's. Here it was that the Doctor had passed weary months of
+illness on his first approach to Tanganyika in previous years. The
+village contained but few of its old inhabitants, but those few received
+them hospitably enough and mourned the loss of him who had been so well
+appreciated when alive. So they journeyed on day by day till the
+southern end of the Lake was rounded.
+
+The previous experience of the difficult route along the heights
+bordering on Tanganyika made them determine to give the Lake a wide
+berth this time, and for this purpose they held well to the eastward,
+passing a number of small deserted villages, in one of which they camped
+nearly every night. It was necessary to go through the Fipa country, but
+they learnt from one man and another that the chief, Kafoofi, was very
+anxious that the body should not be brought near to his town--indeed, a
+guide was purposely thrown in their way who led them past it by a
+considerable detour. Kafoofi stands well with the coast Arabs. One,
+Ngombesassi by name, was at the time living with him, accompanied by his
+retinue of slaves. He had collected a very large quantity of ivory
+further in the interior, but dared not approach nearer at present to
+Unyanyembe with it to risk the chance of meeting one of Mirambo's
+hordes.
+
+This road across the plain seems incomparably the best, No difficulty
+whatever was experienced, and one cannot but lament the toil and
+weariness which Dr. Livingstone endured whilst holding a course close to
+Tanganyika, although one must bear in mind that by no other means at the
+time could he complete his survey of this great inland sea, or acquaint
+us with its harbours, its bays, and the rivers which find their way
+into it on the east; these are details which will prove of value when
+small vessels come to navigate it in the future.
+
+The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days' march over
+Lambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which crosses the country east
+and west, and attains, it would seem, an altitude of some 4000 feet.
+Looking down on the plain from its highest passes a vast lake appears to
+stretch away in front towards the north, but on descending this resolves
+itself into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with saline
+incrustations. The path lay directly across this. The difficulties they
+anticipated had no real existence, for small villages were found, and
+water was not scarce, although brackish. The first demand for toll was
+made near here, but the headman allowed them to pass for fourteen
+strings of beads. Susi says that this plain literally swarms with herds
+of game of all kinds: giraffe and zebra were particularly abundant, and
+lions revelled in such good quarters. The settlements they came to
+belonged chiefly to elephant hunters. Farijala and Muanyasere did well
+with the buffalo, and plenty of beef came into camp.
+
+They gained some particulars concerning a salt-water lake on their
+right, at no very considerable distance. It was reported to them to be
+smaller than Tanganyika, and goes by the name Bahari ya Muarooli--the
+sea of Muarooli--for such is the name of the paramount chief who lives
+on its shore, and if we mistake not the very Merere, or his successor,
+about whom Dr. Livingstone from time to time showed such interest. They
+now approached the Likwa River, which flows to this inland sea: they
+describe it as a stream running breast high, with brackish water; little
+satisfaction was got by drinking from it.
+
+Just as they came to the Likwa, a long string of men was seen on the
+opposite side filing down to the water, and being uncertain of their
+intentions, precautions were quickly taken to ensure the safety of the
+baggage. Dividing themselves into three parties, the first detachment
+went across to meet the strangers, carrying the Arab flag in front.
+Chuma headed another band at a little distance in the rear of these,
+whilst Susi and a few more crouched in the jungle, with the body
+concealed in a roughly-made hut. Their fears, however, were needless: it
+turned out to be a caravan bound for Fipa to hunt elephants and buy
+ivory and slaves. The new arrivals told them that they had come straight
+through Unyanyembe from Bagamoio, on the coast, and that the Doctor's
+death had already been reported there by natives of Fipa.
+
+As we notice with what rapidity the evil tidings spread (for the men
+found that it had preceded them in all directions), one of the great
+anxieties connected with African travel and exploration seems to be
+rather increased than diminished. It shows us that it is never wise to
+turn an entirely deaf ear when the report of a disaster comes to hand,
+because in this instance the main facts were conveyed across country,
+striking the great arterial caravan route at Unyanyembe, and getting at
+once into a channel that would ensure the intelligence reaching
+Zanzibar. On the other hand, false reports never lag on their
+journey:--how often has Livingstone been killed in former years! Nor is
+one's perplexity lessened by past experience, for we find the oldest and
+most sagacious travellers when consulted are, as a rule, no more to be
+depended on than the merest tyro in guessing.
+
+With no small satisfaction, the men learnt from the outward-bound
+caravan that the previous story was a true one, and they were assured
+that Dr. Livingstone's son with two Englishmen and a quantity of goods
+had already reached Unyanyembe.
+
+The country here showed all the appearance of a salt-pan: indeed a
+quantity of very good salt was collected by one of the men, who thought
+he could turn an honest bunch of beads with it at Unyanyembe.
+
+Petty tolls were levied on them. Kampama's deputy required four dotis,
+and an additional tax of six was paid to the chief of the Kanongo when
+his town was reached.
+
+The Lungwa River bowls away here towards Tanganyika. It is a quick
+tumbling stream, leaping amongst the rocks and boulders, and in its
+deeper pools it affords cool delight to schools of hippopotami. The men,
+who had hardly tasted good water since crossing Lambalamfipa, are loud
+in its praise. Muanyasere improved relations with the people at the next
+town by opportunely killing another buffalo, and all took a three days'
+rest. Yet another caravan met them, bound likewise for the interior, and
+adding further particulars about the Englishmen at Unyanyembe. This
+quickened the pace till they found at one stage they were melting two
+days of the previous outward journey into one.
+
+Arriving at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of the party, was
+commissioned to write an account of the distressing circumstances of the
+Doctor's death, and Chuma, taking three men with him, pressed on to
+deliver it to the English party in person. The rest of the cortege
+followed them through the jungle to Chilunda's village. On the outskirts
+they came across a number of Wagogo hunting elephants with dogs and
+spears, but although they were well treated by them, and received
+presents of honey and food, they thought it better to keep these men in
+ignorance of the fact that they were in charge of the dead body of their
+master.
+
+The Manyara River was crossed on its way to Tanganyika before they got
+to Chikooloo, Leaving this village behind them, they advanced to the
+Ugunda district, now ruled by Kalimangombi, the son of Mbereke, the
+former chief, and so on to Kasekera, which, it will be remembered, is
+not far from Unyanyembe.
+
+_20th October, 1873._--We will here run on ahead with Chuma on his way
+to communicate with the new arrivals. He reached the Arab settlement
+without let or hindrance. Lieut. Cameron was quickly put in possession
+of the main facts of Dr. Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter,
+and Chuma was questioned concerning it in the presence of Dr. Dillon and
+Lieut. Murphy. It was a disappointment to find that the reported arrival
+of Mr. Oswell Livingstone was entirely erroneous; but Lieut. Cameron
+showed the wayworn men every kindness. Chuma rested one day before
+setting out to relieve his comrades to whom he had arranged to make his
+way as soon as possible. Lieut. Cameron expressed a fear that it would
+not be safe for him to carry the cloth he was willing to furnish them
+with if he had not a stronger convoy, as he himself had suffered too
+sorely from terrified bearers on his way thither; but the young fellows
+were pretty well acquainted with native marauders by this time, and set
+off without apprehension.
+
+And now the greater part of their task is over. The weather-beaten
+company wind their way into the old well-known settlement of Kwihara. A
+host of Arabs and their attendant slaves meet them as they sorrowfully
+take their charge to the same Tembe in which the "weary waiting" was
+endured before, and then they submit to the systematic questioning which
+the native traveller is so well able to sustain.
+
+News in abundance was offered in return. The porters of the Livingstone
+East-Coast Aid Expedition had plenty to relate to the porters sent by
+Mr. Stanley. Mirambo's war dragged on its length, and matters had
+changed very little since they were there before, either for better or
+for worse. They found the English officers extremely short of goods; but
+Lieut. Cameron, no doubt with the object of his Expedition full in view,
+very properly felt it a first duty to relieve the wants of the party
+that had performed this Herculean feat of bringing the body of the
+traveller he had been sent to relieve, together with every article
+belonging to him at the time of his death, as far as this main road to
+the coast.
+
+In talking to the men about their intentions, Lieut. Cameron had serious
+doubts whether the risk of taking the body of Dr. Livingstone through
+the Ugogo country ought to be run. It very naturally occurred to him
+that Dr. Livingstone might have felt a wish during life to be buried in
+the same land in which the remains of his wife lay, for it will be
+remembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shupanga, on the
+Zambesi. All this was put before the men, but they steadily adhered to
+their first conviction--that it was right at all risks to attempt to
+bear their master home, and therefore they were no longer urged to bury
+him at Kwihara.
+
+To the new comers it was of great interest to examine the boxes which
+the men had conveyed from Bangweolo. As we have seen, they had carefully
+packed up everything at Chitambo's--books, instruments, clothes, and all
+which would bear special interest in time to come from having been
+associated with Livingstone in his last hours.
+
+It cannot be conceded for a moment that these poor fellows would have
+been right in forbidding this examination, when we consider the relative
+position in which natives and English officers must always stand to each
+other; but it is a source of regret to relate that the chief part of
+Livingstone's instruments were taken out of the packages and
+appropriated for future purposes. The instruments with which all his
+observations had been made throughout a series of discoveries extending
+over seven years--aneroid barometers, compasses, thermometers, the
+sextant and other things, have gone on a new series of travels, to incur
+innumerable risks of loss, whilst one only of his thermometers comes to
+hand.
+
+We could well have wished these instruments safe in England with the
+small remnant of Livingstone's personal property, which was allowed to
+be shipped from Zanzibar.
+
+The Doctor had deposited four bales of cloth as a reserve stock with the
+Arabs, and these were immediately forthcoming for the march down.
+
+The termination here of the ill-fated Expedition need not be commented
+upon. One can only trust that Lieut. Cameron may be at liberty to pursue
+his separate investigations in the interior under more favourable
+auspices. The men seemed to anticipate his success, for he is generous
+and brave in the presence of the natives, and likely to win his way
+where others undoubtedly would have failed.
+
+Ill-health had stuck persistently to the party, and all the officers
+were suffering from the various forms of fever. Lieut. Cameron gave the
+men to understand that it was agreed Lieut. Murphy should return to
+Zanzibar, and asked if they could attach his party to their march; if
+so, the men who acted as carriers should receive 6 dollars a man for
+their services. This was agreed to. Susi had arranged that they should
+avoid the main path of the Wagogo; inasmuch, as if difficulty was to be
+encountered anywhere, it would arise amongst these lawless pugnacious
+people.
+
+By making a ten days' detour at "Jua Singa," and travelling by a path
+well known to one of their party through the jungle of Poli ya vengi,
+they hoped to keep out of harm's way, and to be able to make the cloth
+hold out with which they were supplied. At length the start was
+effected, and Dr. Dillon likewise quitted the Expedition to return to
+the coast. It was necessary to stop after the first day's march, for a
+long halt; for one of the women was unable to travel, they found, and
+progress was delayed till she, the wife of Chowpereh, could resume the
+journey. There seem to have been some serious misunderstandings between
+the leaders of Dr. Livingstone's party and Lieut. Murphy soon after
+setting out, which turned mainly on the subject of beginning the day's
+march. The former, trained in the old discipline of their master, laid
+stress on the necessity of very early rising to avoid the heat of the
+day, and perhaps pointed out more bluntly than pleasantly that if the
+Englishmen wanted to improve their health, they had better do so too.
+However, to a certain extent, this was avoided by the two companies
+pleasing themselves.
+
+Making an early start, the body was carried to Kasekera, by Susi's party
+where, from an evident disinclination to receive it into the village, an
+encampment was made outside. A consultation now became necessary. There
+was no disguising the fact that, if they kept along the main road,
+intelligence would precede them concerning that in which they were
+engaged, stirring up certain hostility and jeopardising the most
+precious charge they had. A plan was quickly hit upon. Unobserved, the
+men removed the corpse of the deceased explorer from the package in
+which it had hitherto been conveyed, and buried the bark case in the hut
+in the thicket around the village in which they had placed it. The
+object now was to throw the villagers off their guard, by making believe
+that they had relinquished the attempt to carry the body to Zanzibar.
+They feigned that they had abandoned their task, having changed their
+minds, and that it must be sent back to Unyanyembe to be buried there.
+In the mean time the corpse of necessity had to be concealed in the
+smallest space possible, if they were actually to convey it secretly for
+the future; this was quickly managed.
+
+Susi and Chuma went into the wood and stripped off a fresh length of
+bark from an N'gombe tree; in this the remains, conveniently prepared as
+to length, were placed, the whole being surrounded with calico in such
+a manner as to appear like an ordinary travelling bale, which was then
+deposited with the rest of the goods. They next proceeded to gather a
+faggot of mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of six feet or so, and
+swathing them round with cloth to imitate a dead body about to be
+buried. This done, a paper, folded so as to represent a letter, was duly
+placed in a cleft stick, according to the native letter-carrier's
+custom, and six trustworthy men were told off ostensibly to go with the
+corpse to Unyanyembe. With due solemnity the men set out; the villagers
+were only too thankful to see it, and no one suspected the ruse. It was
+near sundown. The bearers of the package held on their way, till fairly
+beyond all chance of detection, and then began to dispose of their load.
+The mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the jungle, and
+when all were disposed of, the wrappings were cunningly got rid of in
+the same way. Going further on, first one man, and then another, sprung
+clear from the path into the long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps,
+and the whole party returned by different ways to their companions, who
+had been anxiously awaiting them during the night. No one could detect
+the real nature of the ordinary-looking bale which, henceforth, was
+guarded with no relaxed vigilance, and eventually disclosed the bark
+coffin and wrappings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrival
+at Bagamoio. And now, devoid of fear, the people of Kasekera asked them
+all to come and take up their quarters in the town; a privilege which
+was denied them so long as it was known that they had the remains of the
+dead with them.
+
+But a dreadful event was about to recall to their minds how many fall
+victims to African disease!
+
+Dr. Dillon now came on to Kasekera suffering much from dysentery--a few
+hours more, and he shot himself in his tent by means of a loaded rifle.
+
+Those who knew the brave and generous spirit in which this hard-working
+volunteer set out with Lieut. Cameron, fully hoping to relieve Dr.
+Livingstone, will feel that he ended his life by an act alien indeed to
+his whole nature. The malaria imbibed during their stay at Unyanyembe
+laid upon him the severest form of fever, accompanied by delirium, under
+which he at length succumbed in one of its violent paroxysms. His
+remains are interred at Kasekera.
+
+We must follow Susi's troop through a not altogether eventless journey
+to the sea. Some days afterwards, as they wended their way through a
+rocky place, a little girl in their train, named Losi, met her death in
+a shocking way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a water-jar
+on her head in the file of people, when an enormous snake dashed across
+the path, deliberately struck her in the thigh, and made for a hole in
+the jungle close at hand. This work of a moment was sufficient, for the
+poor girl fell mortally wounded. She was carried forward, and all means
+at hand were applied, but in less than ten minutes the last symptom
+(foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe.
+
+Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to prove the truth
+of an assertion made to travellers in many parts of Africa. The natives
+protest that one species of snake will deliberately chase and overtake
+his victim with lightning speed, and so dreadfully dangerous is it, both
+from the activity of its poison and its vicious propensities, that it is
+perilous to approach its quarters. Most singular to relate, an Arab came
+to some of the men after their arrival at Zanzibar and told them that he
+had just come by the Unyanyembe road, and that, whilst passing the
+identical spot where this disaster occurred, one of the men was attacked
+by the same snake, with precisely the same results; in fact, when
+looking for a place in which to bury him they saw the grave of Losi, and
+the two lie side by side.
+
+Natal colonists will probably recognise the Mamba in this snake; it is
+much to be desired that specimens should be procured for purposes of
+comparison. In Southern Africa so great is the dread it inspires that
+the Kaffirs will break up a Kraal and forsake the place if a Mamba takes
+up his quarters in the vicinity, and, from what we have seen above, with
+no undue caution.
+
+Susi, to whom this snake is known in the Shupanga tongue as "Bubu,"
+describes it as about twelve feet long, dark in colour, of a dirty blue
+under the belly, with red markings like the wattles of a cock on the
+head. The Arabs go so far as to say that it is known to oppose the
+passage of a caravan at times. Twisting its tail round a branch, it will
+strike one man after another in the head with fatal certainty. Their
+remedy is to fill a pot with boiling water, which is put on the head and
+carried under the tree! The snake dashes his head into this and is
+killed--the story is given for what it is worth.
+
+It would seem that at Ujiji the natives, as in other places, cannot bear
+to have snakes killed. The "Chatu," a species of python, is common, and,
+from being highly favoured, becomes so tame as to enter houses at night.
+A little meal is placed on the stool, which the uncanny visitor laps up,
+and then takes its departure--the men significantly say they never saw
+it with their own eyes. Another species utters a cry, much like the
+crowing of a young cock; this is well authenticated. Yet another black
+variety has a spine like a blackthorn at the end of the tail, and its
+bite is extremely deadly.
+
+At the same time it must be added that, considering the enormous number
+of reptiles in Africa, it rarely occurs that anyone is bitten, and a few
+months' residence suffices to dispel the dread which most travellers
+feel at the outset.
+
+_February, 1874._--No further incident occurred worthy of special
+notice. At last the coast town of Bagamoio came in sight, and before
+many hours were over, one of Her Majesty's cruisers conveyed the Acting
+Consul, Captain Prideaux, from Zanzibar to the spot which the cortege
+had reached. Arrangements were quickly made for transporting the remains
+of Dr. Livingstone to the Island some thirty miles distant, and then it
+became perhaps rather too painfully plain to the men that their task was
+finished.
+
+One word on a subject which will commend itself to most before we close
+this long eventful history.
+
+We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, Nassick boys, and
+Shupanga canoemen, accompanied Dr. Livingstone when he started from
+Zanzibar in 1866 to enter upon his last discoveries: of all these, five
+only could answer to the roll-call as they handed over the dead body of
+their leader to his countrymen on the shore whither they had returned,
+and this after eight years' desperate service.
+
+Once more we repeat the names of these men. Susi and James Chuma have
+been sufficiently prominent throughout--hardly so perhaps has Amoda,
+their comrade ever since the Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abram
+and Mabruki, each with service to show from the time he left the Nassiok
+College with the Doctor in 1865. Nor must we forget Ntoaeka and Halima,
+the two native girls of whom we have heard such a good character: they
+cast in their lot with the wanderers in Manyuema. It does seem strange
+to hear the men say that no sooner did they arrive at their journey's
+end than they were so far frowned out of notice, that not so much as a
+passage to the Island was offered them when their burden was borne away.
+We must hope that it is not too late--even for the sake of
+consistency--to put it on record that _whoever_ assisted Livingstone,
+whether white or black, has not been overlooked in England. Surely those
+with whom he spent his last years must not pass away into Africa again
+unrewarded, and lost to sight.
+
+Yes, a very great deal is owing to these five men, and we say it
+emphatically. If the nation has gratified a reasonable wish in learning
+all that concerns the last days on earth of a truly noble countryman and
+his wonderful enterprise, the means of doing so could never have been
+placed at our disposal but for the ready willingness which made Susi and
+Chuma determine, if possible, to render an account to some of those whom
+they had known as their master's old companions. If the Geographer finds
+before him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as Livingstone
+alone could record them, it is right and proper that he should feel the
+part these men have played in furnishing him with such valuable matter.
+For we repeat that nothing but such leadership and staunchness as that
+which organized the march home from Ilala, and distinguished it
+throughout, could have brought Livingstone's bones to our land or his
+last notes and maps to the outer world. To none does the feat seem so
+marvellous as to those who know Africa and the difficulties which must
+have beset both the first and the last in the enterprise. Thus in his
+death, not less than in his life, David Livingstone bore testimony to
+that goodwill and kindliness which exists in the heart of the African.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[37] The men consider it five days' march "only carrying a gun" from
+the Molilamo to the bank of the Luapula--this in rough reckoning, at
+the rate of native travelling, would give a distance of say 120 to 150
+miles.--ED.
+
+[38] This comparison was got at from the remarks made by Susi and
+Chuma at an agricultural show; they pointed out the resemblance borne
+by the shorthorns and by the Alderney bulls to several breeds near
+Lake Bemba.--ED.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Last Journals of David
+Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to His Death, Volume II (of  2), 1869-1873, by David Livingstone
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
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author	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-15 04:50:10 -0700
committer	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-15 04:50:10 -0700
commit	8f8f8910a4b62c7d9a635dcbf463529f9864c346 (patch)
tree	82b1994355bc6b83decce932936380f57ebabd6a