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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/16994-8.txt b/16994-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5329e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/16994-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4469 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Year's Journey through France and Part of +Spain, Volume II (of 2), by Philip Thicknesse + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume II (of 2) + + +Author: Philip Thicknesse + + + +Release Date: November 4, 2005 [eBook #16994] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE +AND PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)*** + + +E-text prepared by Robert Connal, Leonard Johnson, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) from +page images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de +France (http://gallica.bnf.fr/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has Volume I of this work. + See https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/16485 + + Images of the original pages are available through the + Bibliothèque nationale de France. See + http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-102009 + + + + + +A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE, AND PART OF SPAIN. + +by + +PHILIP THICKNESSE. + +VOLUME II + + + + + + + +Dublin +Printed by J. Williams, (No. 21.) Skinner-Row. + +M,DCC,LXXVII. + + + + +A + +JOURNEY, &c. + + +LETTER XXXIV. + + +NISMES + +SIR, + +I am very certain that a man may travel twice through Spain, and half +through France, before he sees a woman of so much beauty, elegance, and +breeding, as the mistress of the house I lodge in near this city. I was +directed to the house, and recommended to the lady, as a lodger; but +both were so fine, and superior in all respects to any thing I had seen +out of Paris, that I began to suspect I had been imposed upon. The lady +who received me appeared to be (it was candle-light) about eighteen, a +tall, elegant figure, a beautiful face, and an address inferior to none: +I concluded she was the daughter, till she informed me, that _Mons. +Saigny_, her husband, was gone to _Avignon_. What added, perhaps, to +this lady's beauty in my eyes, or rather ears, was her misfortune,--she +could not speak louder than a gentle whisper. After seeing her sumptuous +apartments, I told her I would not ask what her price was, but tell her +what I could afford only to give; and observed, that as it was winter, +and the snow upon the ground, perhaps she had better take my price than +have none. She instantly took me by the hand and said, she had so much +respect for the English nation, that my price was her's; and with a +still softer whisper, and close to my ear, said, I might come in as soon +as I pleased--"_Quand vous voudrez, Monsieur_," said she. We accordingly +took possession of the finest apartments, and the best beds I ever lay +on. The next day, I saw a genteel stripling about the house, in a white +suit of cloaths, dressed _en militaire_, and began to suspect the virtue +of my fair hostess, not perceiving for some hours that it was my hostess +herself; in the afternoon she made us a visit in this horrid +dress,--(for horrid she appeared in my eyes)--her cloaths were white, +with red cuffs and scarlet _lappels_; and she held in her straddling lap +a large black muff, as big as a porridge-pot. By this visit she lost all +that respect her superlative beauty had so justly entitled her to, and I +determined she should visit me no more in man's apparel. When I went +into the town I mentioned this circumstance, and there I learnt, that +the real wife of _Mons. Saigny_ had parted from him, and that the lady, +my hostess, was his mistress. The next day, however, the master arrived; +and after being full and finely dressed, he made me a visit, and +proffers of every attention in his power: he told me he had injured his +fortune, and that he was not rich; but that he had served in the army, +and was a gentleman: he had been bred a protestant, but had just +embraced the true faith, in order to qualify himself for an employment +about the court of the Pope's _Legate_ at _Avignon_. After many +expressions of regard, he asked me to dine with him the next day; but I +observed that as he was not rich, and as I paid but a small rent in +proportion to his noble apartments, I begged to be excused; but he +pressed it so much, that I was obliged to give him some _other reasons_, +which did not prove very pleasing ones, to the lady below. This fine +lady, however, continued to sell us wood, wine, vinegar, sallad, milk, +and, in short, every thing we wanted, at a very unreasonable price. At +length, my servant, who by agreement made my soup in their kitchen, said +something rude to my landlord, who complained to me, and seemed +satisfied with the reprimand I had given the man; but upon a repetition +of his rudeness, _Mons. Saigny_ so far forgot himself as to speak +equally rude to me: this occasioned some warm words, and so much +ungovernable passion in him, that I was obliged to tell him I must fetch +down my pistols; this he construed into a direct challenge, and +therefore retired to his apartments, wrote a card, and sent it to me +while I was walking before the door with a priest, his friend and +visitor, and in sight of the _little female captain his second_, and all +the servants of the house; on this card was wrote, "_Sir, I accept your +proposition_;" and before I could even read it, he followed his man, who +brought it in the true stile of a butler, rather than a butcher, with a +white napkin under his arm. You may be sure, I was no more disposed to +fight than _Mons. Saigny_; indeed, I told him I would not; but if any +man attacked me on my way to or from the town, where I went every day, I +would certainly defend myself: and fortunately I never met _Mons. +Saigny_ in the fortnight I staid after in his house; for I could not +bear to leave a town where I had two or three very agreeable +acquaintance, and one (_Mons. Seguier_) whose house was filled as full +of natural and artificial curiosities, as his head is with learning and +knowledge. Here too I had an opportunity of often visiting the +Amphitheatre, _the Maison Carree_, (so Mons. Seguier writes it) and the +many remains of Roman monuments so common in and about _Nismes_. I +measured some of the stones under which I passed to make the _tout au +tour_ of the Amphitheatre, they were seventeen feet in length, and two +in thickness; and most of the stones on which the spectators sat within +the area, were twelve feet long, two feet ten inches wide, and one foot +five inches deep; except only those of the sixth row of seats from the +top, and they alone are one foot ten inches deep; probably it was on +that range the people of the highest rank took their seats, not only for +the elevation, but the best situation for sight and security; yet one of +these great stones cannot be considered more, in comparison to the +whole building, than a single brick would be in the construction of +Hampton-Court Palace. When I had the sole possession (and I had it +often) of this vast range of seats, where emperors, empresses, Roman +knights, and matrons, have been so often seated, to see men die wantonly +by the hands of other men, as well as beasts for their amusement, I +could not but with pleasure reflect, how much human nature is softened +since that time; for notwithstanding the powerful prevalency of custom +and fashion, I do not think the ladies of the present age would _plume_ +their towering heads, and curl their _borrowed_ hair, with that glee, to +see men murdered by missive weapons, as to die at their feet by deeper, +tho' less visible wounds. If, however, we have not those cruel sports, +we seem to be up with them in prodigality, and to exceed them in luxury +and licentiousness; for in Rome, not long before the final dissolution +of the state, the candidates for public employments, in spite of the +penal laws to restrain it, _bribed openly_, and were chosen sometimes +_by arms_ as well as money. In the senate, things were conducted no +better; decrees of great consequence were made when very few senators +were present; the laws were violated by private knaves, under the colour +of public necessity; till at length, _Cæsar_ seized the sovereign power, +and tho' he was slain, they omitted to recover their liberty, forgetting +that + + "A day, an hour, of virtuous Liberty + Is worth a whole eternity of bondage." + _Addison's_ CATO. + +I can almost think I read in the parallel, which I fear will soon be +drawn between the rise and fall of the British and Roman empire, +something like this;--"Rome had her CICERO; Britain her CAMDEN: Cicero, +who had preserved Rome from the conspiracy of _Catiline_, was banished: +CAMDEN, who would have preserved Britain from a bloody civil war, +removed." The historian will add, probably, that "those who brought +desolation upon their land, did not mean that there should be no +commonwealth, but that right or wrong, they should continue to controul +it: they did not mean to burn the capitol to ashes, but to bear absolute +sway in the capitol:--The result was, however, that though they did not +mean to overthrow the state, yet they risqued all, rather than be +overthrown themselves; and they rather promoted the massacre of their +fellow-citizens, than a reconciliation and union of parties,"--THUS FELL +ROME--Take heed, BRITAIN! + + + + +LETTER XXXV. + +ARLES. + + +I left _Nismes_ reluctantly, having formed there an agreeable and +friendly intimacy with Mr. _D'Oliere_, a young gentleman of Switzerland; +and an edifying, and entertaining acquaintance, with Mons. _Seguier_. I +left too, the best and most sumptuous lodgings I had seen in my whole +tour; but a desire to see _Arles_, _Aix_, and _Marseilles_, &c. got the +better of all. But I set out too soon after the snow and rains, and I +found part of the road so bad, that I wonder how my horse dragged us +through so much clay and dirt. When I gave you some account of the +antiquities of _Nismes_, I did not expect to find _Arles_ a town fraught +with ten times more matter and amusement for an antiquarian; but I found +it not only a fine town now, but that it abounds with an infinite number +of monuments which evince its having once been an almost second Rome. +There still remains enough of the Amphitheatre to convince the beholder +what a noble edifice it was, and to wonder why so little, of so large +and solid a building, remains. The town is built on the banks of the +Rhone, over which, on a bridge of barges, we entered it; but it is +evident, that in former days, the sea came quite up to it, and that it +was a haven for ships of burden; but the sea has retired some leagues +from it, many ages since; beside an hundred strong marks at _this_ day +of its having been a sea-port formerly, the following inscription found +a century or two ago, in the church of _St. Gabriel_, will clearly +confirm it: + + M. FRONTONI EVPOR + IIIIIIVIR AVG. COL. JVLIA. + AVG. AQVIS SEXTIIS NAVICVLAR. + MAR. AREL. CVRAT EJVSD. CORP. + PATRONA NAVTAR DRVENTICORVM. + ET VTRICVLARIORVM. + CORP. ERNAGINENSIUM. + JULIA NICE VXOR. + CONJVGI KARISSIMO. + +Indeed there are many substantial reasons to believe, that it was at +this town _Julius Cæsar_ built the twelve gallies, which, from the +cutting of the wood to the time they were employed on service, was but +thirty days.--That it was a very considerable city in the time of the +first Emperors, is past all doubt. _Constantine_ the Great held his +court, and resided at _Arles_, with all his family; and the Empress +_Faustina_ was delivered of a son here (_Constantine_ the younger) and +it was long before so celebrated for an annual fair held in the month of +August, that it was called _le Noble Marche de Gaules_. And _Strabo_, in +his dedication of his book to the Emperor, called it "_Galliarum +Emporium non Parvum_;" which is a proof that it was celebrated for its +rich commerce, &c. five hundred years before it became under the +dominion of the Romans. But were I capable of giving you a particular +description of all the monuments of antiquity in and near this town, it +would compose a little book, instead of a sheet or two of paper. I +shall therefore only pick out a few things which have afforded me the +most entertainment, and I hope may give you a little; but I shall begin +with mentioning what must first give you concern, in saying that in that +part of the town called _la Roquette_, I was shewn the place where +formerly stood an elevated Altar whereon, three young citizens were +sacrificed annually, and who were fattened at the public expence during +a whole year, for the horrid purpose! On the first of May their throats +were cut in the presence of a prodigious multitude of people assembled +from all parts; among whom the blood of the victims was thrown, as they +imagined all their sins were expiated by that barbarous sacrifice; which +horrid practice was put a stop to by the first Bishop of _Arles_, ST. +TROPHIME. The Jews, who had formerly a synagogue in _Arles_, were driven +out in the year 1493, when that and their celebrated School were +demolished. There were found about an hundred after, among the stones +of those buildings some Hebrew characters neatly cut, which were copied +and sent to the Rabbins of Avignon, to be translated, and who explained +them then thus: + + Chodesh: Elvl. Chamescheth, lamech, nav. Nislamv. Bedikoth. + Schradai. + +i.e. they say, + + "In the month of August five thousand and thirty--the Visitation + of God ceased." + +Perhaps the plague had visited them.--There was also another Hebrew +inscription, which was on the tomb of a famous Rabbin called Solomon, +surnamed the grandson of David. + +The Amphitheatre of _Arles_ was of an oval form, composed of three +stages; each stage containing sixty arches; the whole was built of hewn +stone of an immense size, without mortar, and of a prodigious thickness: +the circumference above, exclusive of the projection of the +architecture, was 194 toises three feet, the frontispiece 17 toises +high and the area 71 toises long and 52 wide; the walls were 17 toises +thick, which were pierced round and round with a gallery, for a +convenience of passing in and out of the seats, which would conveniently +contain 30,000 men, allowing each person three feet in depth and two in +width; and yet, there remain at this day only a few arches quite +complete from top to bottom, which are of themselves a noble monument. +Indeed one would be inclined to think that it never had been compleated, +did we not know that the Romans left nothing unfinished of that kind; +and read, that the Emperor _Gallus_ gave some superb spectacles in the +Amphiteatre of _Arles_, and that the same amusements were continued by +following Emperors. Nothing can be a stronger proof than these ruins, of +the certain destruction and corruption of all earthly things; for one +would think that the small parts which now remain of this once mighty +building would, endure as long as the earth itself; but what is very +singular is, that this very Amphitheatre was built upon the ruins of a +more mighty building, and perhaps one of a more substantial structure. +_Tempus edax rerum, tuque invidiosa vetustas omnia destruis_. In the +street called _St. Claude_, stood a triumphal arch which was called +_L'Arche admirable_; it is therefore natural to conclude, that the town +contained many others of less beauty. There are also within the walls +large remains of the palace of _Constantine_. A beautiful antique statue +of _Venus_ was found here also, about an hundred and twenty years +ago.--That a _veritable_ fine woman should set all the beaux and +_connoisseurs_ of a whole town in a flame, I do not much wonder; but you +will be surprized when I tell you that this cold trunk of marble, (for +the arms were never found) put the whole town of _Arles_ together by the +ears; one _Sçavant_ said it was the goddess _Diana_, and wrote a book to +prove it; another insisted upon it, that it was the true image of +_Venus_; then starts up an Ecclesiastic, who _you know has nothing to +do with women_, and he pronounced in dogmatical terms, it was neither +one nor the other; at length the wiser magistrates of the town agreed to +send it as a present to their august monarch Lewis the XIVth; and if you +have a mind to see an inanimate woman who has made such a noise in the +world, you will find her at _Versailles_, without any other notice taken +of her or the quarrels about her, than the following words written (I +think) upon her pedestal, _La Venus d'Arles_. This ended the dispute, as +I must my letter. + + + + +LETTER XXXVI. + + +I have not half done with _Arles_. The more I saw and heard in this +town, the more I found was to be seen. The remains of the Roman theatre +here would of itself be a sufficient proof that it was a town of great +riches and importance. Among the refuse of this building they found +several large vases of baked earth, which were open on one side, and +which were fixed properly near the seats of the audience to receive and +convey the sounds of the instruments and voices of the actors distinctly +throughout the theatre, which had forty-eight arches, eleven behind the +scenes of ten feet wide, three grand arches of fourteen feet wide, and +thirty-one of twelve feet; the diameter was thirty-one canes, and the +circumference seventy-nine; and from the infinite number of beautiful +pieces of sculpture, frizes, architraves, pillars of granite, &c. which +have been dug up, it is very evident that this theatre was a most +magnificent building, and perhaps would have stood firm to this day, had +not a Bishop of _Arles_, from a principle of more piety than wisdom, +stript it of the finest ornaments and marble pillars, to adorn the +churches. Near the theatre stood also the famous temple of _Diana_; and, +as the famous statue mentioned in my former letter was found beneath +some noble marble pillars near that spot, it is most likely _La Venus +d'Arles_ is nevertheless the Goddess _Diana_. + +I never wish more for your company than when I walk, (and I walk every +day) in the Elysian fields. The spot is beautiful, the prospect far and +near equally so: in the middle of this ancient _Cimetiere_ stands a +motly building, from the middle of which however rises a cupola, which +at the first view informs you it is the work of a Roman artist; and here +you must, as it were, thread the needle between an infinite number of +Pagan and Christian monuments, lying thick upon the surface in the +utmost disorder and confusion, insomuch, that one would think the Day of +Judgment was arrived and the dead were risen. Neither _Stepney_ +church-yard, nor any one in or near a great city, shew so many +headstones as this spot does stone coffins of an immense size, hewn out +of one piece; the covers of most of which have been broken or removed +sufficiently to search for such things as were usually buried with the +dead. Some of these monuments, and some of the handsomest too, are still +however unviolated. It is very easy to distinguish the Pagan from the +Christian monnments, without opening them, as all the former have the +Roman letters DM (_Diis Manibus_) cut upon them. It is situated, +according to their custom, near the high-way, the water, and the +marshes. You know the ancients preferred such spots for the interment of +the dead. + +The tombs of _Ajax_ and _Hector_, HOMER says, were near the sea, as well +as other heroes of antiquity; for as they considered man to be composed +of earth and water, his bones ought to be laid in one, and near the +other. + +I will now give you a few of the most curious inscriptions; but first I +will mention a noble marble monument, moved from this spot into the +_Cimetiere_ of the great Hospital. This tomb is ornamented with +Cornucopiæ, _Pateræ_, &c. and in a shield the following inscription: + + CABILIAE D.F. APPRVLLAE FLAM + D DESIGNATAE COL. DEA. AUG. VOC. M + O. ANNOS XIIII, MENS II. DIES V. + MARITVS VXORI PIENTISSIMAE. + POSUIT. + +This poor girl was not only too young to die, but too young to marry, +one would think; I wish therefore her afflicted husband had told us how +many years he had been married to a wife who died at the age of +fourteen, two months, and five days. The cornucopiæ, I suppose, were to +signify that this virtuous wife, I was going to say maid, was the source +of all his pleasure and happiness. The _Pateræ_ were vases destined to +receive the blood of the victims. + + Supponunt alij cultros, tepidumque cruorem + Suscipiunt Pateris,--_Says the Poet_. + +On each side of the tomb are the symbols of sacrifice. It is very +evident from the fine polish of this monument, that her husband had +obtained the Emperor's particular leave to finish it highly. + +Rogum _ascia ne Polito_ says the law of the twelve tables. + +On another tomb, which is of common stone, in the middle of a shield +supported by two Cupids, is the following inscription: + + M IVNIO MESSIANO + ----VTRICI. CORP. ARELAT. + D EIVS D. CORP. MAG. III. F M + QUI VIXIT ANN. XXVIII. + M. V. D. X. IVNIA VALERIA. + ALVMNO CLARISSIMO. + +The first word of the second line is much obliterated. + + +There are an infinite number of other monuments with inscriptions; but +those above, and this below, will be sufficient for me to convey to you, +and you to my friend at _Winchester_. + + L DOMIT. DOMITIANI + EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM. + D PECCOCEIA VALENTINA M + CONIUGI PIENTISSIMA. + +Before I leave _Arles_, and I leave it reluctantly, whatever you may do, +I must not omit to mention the principal monument, and pride of it, at +this day, i.e. their Obelisque. I will not tell you where nor when it +was dug up; it is sufficient to say, it was found here, that it is a +single piece of granite, sixty-one feet high, and seven feet square +below; yet it was elevated in the Market-place, upon a modern pedestal, +which bears four fulsome complimentary inscriptions to _Lewis_ the XIV. +neither of which will I copy. In elevating this monstrous single stone, +the inhabitants were very adroit: they set it upright in a quarter of an +hour, in the year 1676, just an hundred years ago, amidst an infinite +number of joyful spectators, who are now all laid in their lowly graves; +for though it weighed more than two thousand hundred weight, yet by the +help of capsterns, it was raised without any difficulty. The great King +_Harry_ the IVth had ordered the houses in the arena of the Amphitheatre +to be thrown down, and this obelisk to be fixed in the center of it; but +his death, and _Lewis_'s vanity, fixed it where it now stands; it has +no beauty however to boast of but its age and size, for it bears neither +polish, characters, nor hieroglyphicks, but, as it seems to have been an +Egyptian monument, the inhabitants of _Arles_ have, like those people, +consecrated it below to their King, and above to the sun: on the top is +fixed a globe of azure, sprinkled with _fleurs de lis d'or_, and crowned +with a radiant sun, that is to say, as the sun was made by GOD to +enlighten the world, so LEWIS LE GRAND was made to govern it. + + +I am sure now, you will excuse my mentioning what is said of this great +man _below_; but speaking of light, I must not omit to mention, that +there are men of veracity now living in this town, who affirm, that they +have seen, upon opening some of the ancient monuments here, the eternal +lamps burning. The number of testimonies we have of this kind puts the +matter past a doubt, that a flame has appeared at the lip of these +lamps when first the tombs have been opened; one was found, you know, on +the _Appian_ way, in the tomb of _Cicero_'s daughter, which had burnt +more than seventeen centuries; another at _Padua_, which had burnt eight +hundred years, and which was found hanging between two little phials, +one of gold, the other of silver, which were both quite full of liquor, +extremely clear, as well as many others; but as it is impossible to +believe that flame can exist, and not consume that which feeds it, is it +not more natural to conclude that those lamps, phials, &c. contained a +species of phosphorus, which became luminous upon the first opening of +the tombs and the sudden rushing in of fresh air; and that the reverse +of what is generally supposed is the fact, that they are not +extinguished, but illuminated by the fresh air they receive? I have seen +several of these lamps here and elsewhere, most of which are of baked +earth. It has been said, that there is an oil to be extracted from gold, +which will not consume, and that a wick of _asbestos_ has burnt many +years in this oil, without consumption to either. I have seen a book +written by a German Jesuit, to confirm this fact; so there is authority +for you, if not conviction. + + +As I know your keen appetite after antiquities, I will send you a few +other inscriptions, and leave you to make your own comments; and +_voila_. + + D M + L. HOSTIL. TER. + SILVANI. + ANN. XXIIII. M. II. D. + XV MATER FIL PIJSSIMI + MISERA ET IN LVCIV. + AETERNALI BENIFICI. + O NOVERCAE. + +The following inscription is cut upon a marble column, which stands near +the Jesuits' church: + + SALVIS D.D.N.N. THEODOSIO, ET VALENTINIANO. + P.F.V. AC TRIVM. SEMPER AUG. XV. + CONS. VIR. INL. AUXILIARIS PRÆ. + PRÆT, GALLIA. DE ARELATE MA, + MILLIARIA PONI. S. + M.P.S. + +In the ancient church of _St. Honore_, which stands in the center of all +these Heathen and Christian monuments, are to be seen nine Bacchanalians +of very ancient workmanship; where also is the tomb of _St. Honore_, +employed as the altar of the church; and beneath the church are +catacombs, where the first Christians retired to prayer during the +persecution by the Emperors, and where is still to be seen their altar +and seven ancient sepulchres, of beautiful marble, and exquisitely +worked; the first is the tomb of _St. Genet_; the second of _St. +Roland_, Archbishop of _Arles_; the third of _St. Concord_, with an +epitaph, and two doves with olive branches in their beaks, cut in bass +relief, and underneath are the two letters X and P; on this tomb is the +miraculous cross seen in the heavens by _Constantine_, who is +represented before it on his knees; and on the cover of this tomb are +the heads of _Constantine_, _Faustina_, and his son; and they say the +Emperor saw this miracle in the heaven from the very _Cimetiere_ in +which this monument stands, i.e. in the year 315; the fifth is the tomb +of _St. Dorothy_, Virgin and Martyr of _Arles_; the sixth _St. Virgil_, +and the seventh _St. Hiliare_, (both Archbishops of _Arles_,) who has +borrowed a Pagan sepulchre, for it is adorned with the principal +divinities of the ancients in bass relief.--It seems odd to see on a +Christian Bishop's tomb _Venus_, and the three Destinies. The people +here say, that this tomb represents human life, as the ancients believed +that each God contributed something towards the being. Be that as it +may, the tomb is a very curious one, and much admired by the +_Connoisseurs_, for its excellent workmanship; but what is more +extraordinary than all these, is, that this catacomb, standing in the +middle of the others, with its cover well and closely fixed, has always +water in it, and often is quite full, and nobody can tell (_but one of +the priests perhaps_) from what source it comes. There is also in this +church the tomb and a long Latin Epitaph of _St. Trophime_, their first +Bishop; but the characters are very Gothic, and the Cs are square, +[Image: E E with no mid bar]; he came here in the year 61, and preached +down that abominable practice of sacrificing three young men annually. +He died in the year 61, at 72 years of age. On the front of the +Metropolitan church of _Arles_, called _St. Trophime_, are the two +following lines, in Gothic characters, cut above a thousand years: + + Cernitur eximius vir Christi Discipulorum, + De Numero Trophimus, hic Septuaginta duorum. + + +This church was built in the year 625, by _St. Virgil_, and is a curious +piece of antiquity within, and particularly without; but I will not +omit to give you one of its singularities within; it is an ancient and +curious inscription in large Gothic letters, near the organ: + + Terrarum Roma Gemina de luce majistrA. + Ros Missus Semper Aderit: velut incola IoseP + Olim Contrito Letheo Contulit OrchO. + +To read this you will see you must take the first letter of each verse: +TRO, _Trophemus_; GAL, _Galliæorum_; and APO, _Apostolus_. The letter H, +belonging to the word _Joseph_, must be carried to the word _Orcho_, and +the P must stand by itself. + +_Trophimus Galliarum Apostolus, ut ros missus est, ex urbe Romæ rerum +Dominæ Gemina de luce, scilicet a Petro et Paulo, Ecclesiæ luminaribus; +Contrito orcho Letheo, nempe statim post Christi Passionem qua Dæmonis & +orchi caput contrivit, semper animos nostras nutriet, cibo illo, divinæ +fidei quem nobis contulit: ut alter Joseph qui olim Ægypti populum same +pereuntem liberavit._ + + + + +LETTER XXXVII. + +MARSEILLES. + + +Soon after we left the town of _Arles_, on our way to _Aix_, and this +city, we entered upon a most extraordinary and extensive plain; it is +called the _Crau_, and is a principal and singular domain, belonging to +and situated on the south side of that city; it is ten leagues in +diameter; on which vast extent, scarce a tree, shrub, or verdure is +visible; the whole spot being covered with flint stones of various +sizes, and of singular shapes. _Petrarch_ says, as _Strabo_, and others +have said before him, that those flint stones fell from Heaven like +hail, when _Hercules_ was fighting there against the giants, who, +finding he was likely to be overcome, invoked his father _Jupiter_, who +rained this hard shower of flint stones upon his enemies, which is +confirmed by _Æschylus_. + + "Jupiter Alcidem quando respexit inormem, + Illachrymans, Ligures saxoso perpluit imbre." + +But as this account may not be quite satisfactory to you, who I know +love truth more than fable, I am inclined to think you will consider +_Possidonius_'s manner of accounting for it more feasible: He says, that +it was once a great lake, and having a bed of gravel at the bottom, +those pebble stones, by a succession of ages, have grown to the size +they now appear; but whether stones grow which lie upon the surface of +the earth and out of their proper strata, I must leave you and other +naturalists to determine, without repeating to you what _Aristotle_, and +others, have said upon that subject; and therefore, instead of telling +you either what they say, or I think, I will tell you what I know, which +is, that barren as the _Crau_ appears to be, it not only feeds, but +fattens an infinite number of sheep and cattle, and produces such +excellent wine too in some parts of it, that it is called _Vin de +Crau_, by way of pre-eminence: it has a poignant quality, is very +bright, and is much esteemed for its delicious flavour. The herb which +fattens the sheep and feeds such quantities of cattle is a little plant +which grows between and under the flint stones, which the sheep and +other animals turn up with their feet, to come at the bite; beside +which, there grows a plant on this _Crau_ that bears a vermilion flower, +from which the finest scarlet dye is extracted; it is a little red +grain, about the size of pea, and is gathered in the month of May; it +has been sold for a crown a pound formerly; and a single crop has +produced eleven thousand weight. This berry is the harvest of the poor, +who are permitted to gather it on a certain day, but not till the Lord +of the Manor gives notice by the sound of a horn, according to an +ancient custom and privilege granted originally by King RENE.--On my way +over it, I _gathered_ only a great number of large larks by the help of +my gun, though I did not forget my _Montserrat_ vow: It was a fine day, +and therefore I did not find it so tedious as it must be in winter or +bad weather; for if any thing can be worse than sea, in bad weather, it +must be this vast plain, which is neither land or sea, though not very +distant from the latter, and in all probability was many ages since +covered by the ocean. + +The first town we came to after passing this vast plain, I have forgot +the name of; but it had nothing but its antiquity and a noble and +immense old castle to recommend it, except a transparent agate statue of +the Virgin in the church, as large as the life, with a _tin crown_ upon +her head. Neither the town nor the inhabitants had any thing of the +appearance of French about them; every thing and every body looked so +wild, and the place was in such a ruinous condition, that I could scarce +believe I was not among the Arabs in _Egypt_, or the ruins of +_Persepolis_. Without the town, in a fine beautiful lawn stands a most +irregular high and rude rock, perpendicular on all sides, and under one +side of it are ruins of a house, which I suppose was inhabited by the +first _Seigneur_ in the province. I looked in, and found the ruins full +of miserable inhabitants, I fancy many families; but it exhibited such a +scene of woe, that I was glad to get out again; and upon inquiry, I +found it had been in that state ever since it had been used as an +hospital during the last plague. + + + + +LETTER XXXVIII. + +MARSEILLES. + + +As the good and evil, which fall within the line of a road, as well as a +worldly traveller, are by comparison, I need not say what a heavenly +country _France_ (with all its untoward circumstances) appeared to us +_after_ having journeyed in _Spain_: what would have put me out of +temper before, became now a consolation. _How glad I should I have been, +and how perfectly content, had it been thus in Spain_, was always +uppermost, when things ran a little cross in France. + +Travellers and strangers in France, in a long journey perhaps, have no +connection with any people, but such who have a design upon their purse. +At every _Auberge_ some officious coxcomb lies in wait to ensnare them, +and under one pretence or other, introduces himself; he will offer to +shew you the town; if you accept it, you are saddled with an impertinent +visiter the whole time you stay; if you refuse it, he is affronted; so +let him; for no gentleman ever does that without an easy or natural +introduction; and then, if they are men of a certain age, their +acquaintance is agreeable and useful. An under-bred Frenchman is the +most offensive civil thing in the world: a well-bred Frenchman, quite +the reverse.--Having dined at the table of a person of fashion at _Aix_, +a pert priest, one the company, asked me many questions relative to the +customs and manners of the English nation; and among other things, I +explained to him the elegance in which the tables of people of the first +fashion were served; and told him, that when any one changed his dish, +that his plate, knife and fork, were changed also, and that they were as +perfectly bright and clean as the day they came from the silver-smith's +shop. After a little pause, and a significant sneer,--Pray Sir, (said +he) and do you not change your napkins also? I was piqued a little, and +told him we did not, but that indeed I had made a little mistake, which +I would rectify, which was, that though I had told him the plate, knife, +and fork, were so frequently changed at genteel tables in England, there +was one exception to it; for it sometimes happened that low under-bred +priests (especially on a Sunday) were necessarily admitted to the tables +of people of fashion, and that the butler sometimes left them to wipe +their knife upon their bread, as I had often seen _Lewis_ the Fifteenth +do, even after eating fish with it.--As it was on a Sunday I had met +with this fop of divinity, at a genteel table, I thought I had been even +with him, and I believe he thought so too, for he asked me no more +questions; yet he assured me at his going out, "_he had the honour to be +my most obedient humble servant_." This over-strained civility, so +unlike good-breeding, puts me in mind of what was said of poor Sir WM. +ST. Q----N, after his death, by an arch wag at _Bath_: Sir William, you +know, was a polite old gentleman, but had the manners and breeding +rather of the late, than the present age, and though a man deservedly +esteemed for his many virtues, was by some thought too ceremonious. +Somebody at the round table at _Morgan_'s Coffee-house happened to say, +alas! poor Sir William! he is gone; but he was a good man, and is surely +gone to Heaven, and I can tell you what he said when he first entered +the holy gates! the interrogation followed of course: Why, said he, +seeing a large concourse of departed souls, and not a soul that he knew, +he bowed to the right and left, said he begged pardon,--he feared he was +troublesome, and if so, he would instantly retire.--So the Frenchman, +when he says he would cut himself in four pieces to serve you, only +means to be very civil, and he will be so, if it does not put him to +any expence. + +_Aix_ is a well built city; the principal street called the _Course_, is +very long, very broad, and shaded by stately trees; in the middle of it +are four or five fountains, constantly running, one of which is of very +hot water, at which man and beast are constantly drinking. The city +abounds with a great deal of good company, drawn to it from all parts of +Europe by the efficacy of the waters, and to examine its antiquities, +for it has in and about it many Greek as well as Roman monuments. + +Some part of the country between _Aix_ and this populous city is very +beautiful, but near the town scarce any vegetation is seen; on all sides +high hills and broken rocks present themselves; and one wonders how a +city so large and so astonishingly populous is supported. When I first +approached the entrance gate, it opened a perspective view of the +_Course_, a street of great extent, where the heads of the people were +so thick together, that I concluded it was a FAIR day, and that the +whole country was collected together; but I found it was every day the +same. I saw a prodigious quantity of game and provisions of all kinds, +not only in the shops, but in the streets, and concluded it was not only +a cheap, but a plentiful country; but I soon found my mistake, it was +the evening before Lent commenced, and I could find no provisions of any +kind very easily afterwards, and every thing very dear. You may imagine +the price of provisions at _Marseilles_ when I tell you that they have +their poultry from _Lyons_; it is however a noble city, crouded with men +of all nations, walking in the streets in the proper habits of their +country. The harbour is the most secure sea-port in Europe, being +land-locked on all sides, except at a verry narrow entrance; and as +there is very little rise or fall of water, the vessels are always +afloat. Many of the galley slaves have little shops near the spot where +the galleys are moored, and appear happy and decently dressed; some of +them are rich, and make annual remittances to their friends. In the +_Hotel de Ville_ are two fine large pictures, which were taken lately +from the Jesuits' college; one represents the dreadful scenes which were +seen in the _Grand Course_ during the great plague at _Marseilles_; the +other, the same sad scene on the Quay, before the doors of the house in +which it now hangs. A person cannot look upon these pictures one minute +before he becomes enthralled in the woes which every way present +themselves. You see the good Bishop confessing the sick, the carts +carrying out the dead, children sucking at the breasts of their dead +mothers, wives and husbands bewailing, dead bodies lowering out of the +higher windows by cords, the slaves plundering, the Priests exhorting, +and such a variety of interesting and afflicting scenes so forcibly +struck out by the painter, that you seem to hear the groans, weepings, +and bewailings, from the dying, the sick and the sound; and the eye and +mind have no other repose on these pictures but by fixing it on a dead +body. The painter, who was upon the spot, has introduced his own figure, +but armed like a serjeant with a halberd. The pictures are indeed +dreadfully fine; one is much larger than the other; and it is said the +town Magistrates cut it to fit the place it is in; but it is impossible +to believe any body of men could be guilty of such an act of +_barbarism_! There is still standing in this town, the house of a Roman +senator, now inhabited by a shoe-maker. In the cathedral they have a +marble-stone, on which there is engraved, in Arabic characters, a +monumental inscription to the following effect: + + "GOD is alone permanent. + This is the Sepulchre of his servant and Martyr, + who having placed his confidence in the Most + High, he trusts that his sins will be forgiven." + + JOSEPH, son of ABDALLAH, of the town of _Metelin_, + died in the moon _Zilhage_. + + +I bought here an Egyptian household _God_, or _Lar_ of solid metal, +which was lately dug up near the city walls; it is about nine inches +high, and weighs about five pounds. Several of the hieroglyphic +characters are visible on the breast and back, and its form is that of +an embalmed mummy. By a wholesome law of this city, the richest citizen +must be buried like the poorest, in a coffin of nine livres value, and +that coffin must be bought at the general Hospital. The sale of these +coffins for the dead, goes a great way towards the support of the poor +and the sick. + +At this town I experienced the very reverse in every respect of what I +met with at _Barcelona_, though I had no better recommendation to Mr. +BIRBECK, his Britannick Majesty's Agent here, than I had to the Consul +of _Barcelona_; he took my word, at first sight, nay, he took my notes +and gave me money for them, and shewed me and my family many marks of +friendly attention: Such a man, at such a distance from ones own +country, is a cordial to a troubled breast, and an acquisition to every +Englishman who goes there either for health or curiosity. Mr. _Birbeck_ +took me with him to a noble Concert, to which he is an annual +subscriber, and which was performed in a room in every respect suitable +to so large a band, and so brilliant an assembly: He and his good wife +were the only two British faces I had seen for many months, who looked +like Britons. I shall, indeed I must, soon leave this town, and shall +take _Avignon_ on my way to _Lyons_, from whence you shall soon hear +from me again. + +I had forgot to mention, when I was speaking of _Montpellier_, that the +first gentry are strongly impressed with the notion of the superiority +of the English, in every part of philosophy, more especially in the +science of physic; and I found at _Montpellier_, that these sentiments +so favourable to our countrymen, had been much increased by the +extraordinary knowledge and abilities of Dr. MILMAN, an English +physician, who resided there during the winter 1775. This gentleman, who +is one of Doctor RADCLIFFE'S travelling physicians, had performed +several very astonishing cures, in cases which the French Physicians had +long treated without success: And indeed the French physicians, however +checked by interest or envy, were obliged to acknowledge this +gentleman's uncommon sagacity in the treatment of diseases. What I say +of this ingenious traveller, is for your sake more than his; for I know +nothing more of him than the fame he has left behind him at +_Montpellier_, and which I doubt not will soon be verified by his deeds +among his own countrymen. + + + + +LETTER XXXIX. + +AVIGNON. + + +There is no dependence on what travellers say of different towns and +places they have visited, and therefore you must not lay too much stress +upon what I say. A Lady of fashion, who had travelled all over France, +gave the preference to the town I wrote last to you from (_Marseilles_); +to me, the climate excepted, it is of all others the most disagreeable; +yet that Lady did not mean to deceive; but people often prefer the town +for the sake of the company they find, or some particular or local +circumstance that attended their residence in it; in that respect, I too +left it reluctantly, having met with much civility and some old friends +there; but surely, exclusive of its fine harbour, and favourable +situation for trade, it has little else to recommend it, but riot, mob, +and confusion; provisions are very dear, and not very good. + +On our road here we came again through _Aix_. The _Mule blanche_ without +the town, is better than any auberge within, and Mons. _L'Abbe Abrard +Prætor, de la ordre de St. Malta_, is not only a very agreeable, but a +very convenient acquaintance for a stranger, and who is always ready to +shew the English in particular, attention, and who had much attention +shewn him by Lord A. PERCY and his Lady. + +From _Aix_ we passed through _Lambresque_, _Orgon_, and _Sencage_, a +fine country, full of almond trees, and which were in full blossom on +the 7th of March. At _Orgon_ the post-house was so bad, that after my +horse was in the stable, I was obliged to put him to, and remove to the +_Soleil d'Or_, without the town, and made a good move too. The situation +of _Notre Dame de St. Piere_, a convent on a high hill, is worthy of +notice, and the antiquity of the town also.--Five leagues from _Orgon_ +we crossed a very aukward passage in a ferry-boat, and were landed in +the Pope's territories, about five miles from _Avignon_. The castle, and +higher part of the town, were visible, rising up in the middle of a vast +plain, fertile and beautiful as possible. If we were charmed with the +distant view, we were much more so upon a nearer approach; nothing can +be more pleasing than the well-planted, and consequently well-shaded +coach and foot roads all round this pretty little city; all shut in with +the most beautiful ancient fortification walls I ever beheld, and all in +perfect repair; nor were we asked any questions by the Pope's soldiers, +or Custom-house Officers. I had a letter to Dr. POWER, an English +Physician in this town, who received me with great civity, and made me +known to LORD MOUNTGARRET, and Mr. BUTLER, his son, with whom I had the +honour to spend some very agreeable hours: his Lordship has an +excellent house here, and keeps a table, truly characteristic of the +hospitality of his own country.--And now I cannot help telling you of a +singular disorder which attacked me the very day I arrived; and the +still more singular manner I got well: the day before I arrived, we had +been almost blown along the road to _Orgon_ by a most violent wind; but +I did not perceive that I had received any cold or injury from it, till +we arrived here, and then, I had such an external soreness from head to +foot, that I almost dreaded to walk or stir, and when I did, it was as +slow as my feet could move; after continuing so for some days, I was +much urged to dine with Lord MOUNTGARRET, on St. Patrick's day; I did +so, and by drinking a little more than ordinary, set nature to work, +who, without any other Doctor, did the business, by two or three nights' +copious sweats. I would not have mentioned this circumstance, but it may +be the _mal du pais_, and ought to be mentioned for the _method of +cure_. + +There was not quite so good an understanding between the Pope's +_Legate_ and the English residing here, as could be wished; some +untoward circumstance had happened, and there seemed to be faults on +both sides; it was carried, I think, to such a length, that when the +English met him, they did not pull off their hats; but as it happened +before I came, and as in our walks and rides we often met him airing in +his coach, we paid that respect which is everywhere due to a first +magistrate, and he took great pains to return it most graciously; his +livery, guards, &c. make a very splendid appearance: he holds a court, +and is levee'd every Sunday, though not liked by the French. At the +church of St. _Didier_, in a little chapel, of mean workmanship, is the +tomb of the celebrated _Laura_, whose name _Petrarch_ has rendered +immortal; the general opinion is, that she died a virgin; but it appears +by her tomb, that she was the wife of _Hugues de Sade_, and that she +had many children. About two hundred years after her death, some curious +people got permission to open her tomb, in which they found a little +box, containing some verses written by _Petrarch_, and a medallion of +lead, on one side of which was a Lady's head and on the reverse, the +four following letters, M.L.M.E. + +_Francis_ the First, passing thro' _Avignon_, visited this tomb, and +left upon it the following epitaph, of his own composition: + + "En petit lien compris vous pouvez voir + Ce qui comprend beaucoup par renommèe + Plume, labour le langue & le devoir + Furent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aimée + O gentille ame, etant tant estimée + Qui le pourra louer quen se laissant? + Car la parole est toujours reprimée + Quand le sujet surmonte le disant." + +This town is crowded with convents and churches. The convent of the +_Celestines_, founded by _Charles_ the VIth, is richly endowed, and has +noble gardens: there are not above fourteen or fifteen members, and +their revenue is near two thousand pounds sterling a year. In their +church is a very superb monument of Pope _Clement_ the VIIth, who died +here in the year 1394, as a long Latin inscription upon it announces. +They shew in this house a picture, painted by King _Renee_; it +represents the frightful remains of his beloved mistress, whose body he +took out of the grave, and painted it in the state he then found it, +i.e. with the worms crawling about it: it is a hideous figure, and +hideously painted; the stone coffin stands on a line with the figure, +but is above a foot too short for the body; and on the other side is a +long scrole of verses, written in Gothic characters, which begin thus: + + "_Une fois fus sur toutes femmes belle + Mais par la mort suis devenue telle + Machair estoit tres-belle fraische & tendre + O'r est elle toute tournee en cendre._" + +There follow at least forty other such lines. + +There is also in this convent, a fine monument, on which stands the +effigies of _St. Benezet_, a shepherd of _Avignon_, who built (they say) +the bridge from the town over the Rhone, in consequence of a dream, in +the year 1127: some of the noble arches are still standing, and part of +a very pretty chapel on it, nearly in the middle of the river; but a +great part of the bridge has been carried away, many years since, by the +violence of the river, which often not only overflows its banks, but the +lower part of the town. In 1755, it rose seventeen feet higher than its +usual flowing, and I saw marks in many of the streets, high above my +head, against the sides of houses, which it had risen to; but with all +my industry, I could find no _mark upon the house where Lady Mary +Wortley Montagu dwelt_, though she resided some time here, and though I +endeavoured to find it. + +I need not describe the celebrated fountain of _Vaucluse_, near this +town, where _Petrarque_ composed his works, and established Mount +Parnassus. This is the only part of France in which there is an +Inquisition, but the Officers seem content with their profits and +honours, without the power. + +One part of the town is allotted to the Jews, where about six or seven +hundred live peaceably and have their synagogue; and it was here the +famous rabbin _Joseph Meir_ was born; he died in the year 1554; he was +author, you know, of _Annals des Rois de France_, and _de la Maison +Ottomane_. + +Not far from _Avignon_, on the banks of the same rapid river, stands +_Beaucaire_, famous for its annual FAIR, where merchandize is brought +from all parts of Europe, free of all duties: it begins on the 22d of +July; and it is computed that eight million of livres are annually +expended there in eight days. _Avignon_ is remarkable for the No. Seven, +having seven ports, seven parishes, seven colleges, seven hospitals, +and seven monasteries; and I may add, I think, seven hundred bells, +which are always making a horrid jingle, for they have no idea of +ringing bells harmoniously in any part of France. + + + + +LETTER XL. + +LYONS. + + +After a month's residence at _Avignon_, where I waited till the weather +and roads amongst the high _Dauphine_ mountains were both improved, I +sat out for this city. I had, you know, outward bound, dropt down to +_Port St. Esprit_ by water, so it was a new scene to us by land, and I +assure you it was a fine one; the vast and extensive rich vales, adorned +on all sides with such romantic mountains, could not be otherwise, in +such a climate. Our first stage was only four leagues to _Orange_; this +is the last town in the Pope's territories; and within a quarter of a +mile of it stands, in a corn field, a beautiful Roman triumphal arch, so +great in _ruins_, that it would be an ornament even in Rome. The _Palais +Royal_ at this town, has nothing to recommend it, but that it affords a +prospect of this rich morsel of antiquity. + +From _Orange_ we passed through _Pierlaite, Donzeir_, and several +smaller towns, and we lay one night at a single house, but an excellent +auberge, called _Souce_, kept by an understanding sensible host. + +At a little village called _A'tang_, on the banks of the Rhone, we +stopped a day or two, to enjoy the sweet situation. Just opposite to it, +on the other side of the river, stands a large town, (_Tournau_,) which +added to the beauty of our village, over which hangs a very high +mountain, from whence the best Hermitage wine is collected: I suppose it +is called _Hermitage_, from a Hermit's cell on the top of it; but so +unlike the _Montserrat_ Hermitages, that I contented myself with only +tasting the Hermit's wine; it was so good indeed, that though I did not +see how it was possible to get it safe to the north side of France, I +could not withstand the temptation of buying a cask, for which I was to +pay twelve guineas, and did pay one as earnest, to a very sensible, and +I believe honest and opulent wine merchant, who, however, made me a +present of two bottles when I came away, almost worth my guinea; it is +three livres a bottle on the spot; and he shewed me orders he had +received from men of fashion in England, for wine; among which was one +from Mr. _Ryder_, Sir _Dudley Ryder_'s son I fancy, who, I found, was +well satisfied with his former dealings. Do you know that Claret is +greatly improved by a mixture of Hermitage, and that the best Claret we +have in England is generally so _adulterated_? + +The next towns we passed were _Pevige_ and _Vienne_, the latter only +five leagues from this city. It is a very ancient town, and was formerly +a Roman colony. The cathedral is a large and noble Gothic structure, and +in it is a fine tomb of Cardinal _Mountmoin_, said to be equal in +workmanship to _Richlieu_'s in the _Sorbonne_, but said to be so, by +people no ways qualified to judge properly; it is indeed an expensive +but a miserable performance, when put in competition with the works of +_Girrardeau_. About half a mile without the town is a noble pyramidal +Roman monument, said to have stood in the center of the Market-place, in +the time of the Romans. There is also to be seen in this town, a Mosaic +pavement discovered only a few years since, wonderfully beautiful +indeed, and near ten feet square, though not quite perfect, being broken +in the night by some malicious people, out of mere wantonness, soon +after it was discovered. + +At this town I was recommended to the _Table Round_; but as there are +two, the _grande_ and the _petit_, I must recommend you to the _petit_ +where I was obliged to move; for, of all the dreadful women I ever came +near, Madam _Rousillion_ has the _least mellifluous_ notes; her ill +behaviour, however, procured me the honour of a very agreeable +acquaintance, the _Marquis DeValan_, who made me ashamed, by shewing us +an attention we had no right to expect; but this is one, among many +other agreeable circumstances, which attend strangers travelling in +France. French gentlemen never see strangers ill treated, without +standing forth in their defence; and I hope English gentlemen will +follow their example, because it is a piece of justice due to strangers, +in whatever country they are, or whatever country they are from; it is +doing as one would be done by. That prejudice which prevails in England, +even among some people of fashion, against the French nation is +illiberal, in the highest degree; nay, it is more, it is a national +disgrace.--When I recollect with what ease and uninterruption I have +passed through so many great and little towns, and extensive provinces, +without a symptom of wanton rudeness being offered me, I blush to think +how a Frenchman, if he made no better figure than I did, would have +been treated in a tour through Britain.--My Monkey, with a pair of +French jack boots, and his hair _en queue_, rode postillion upon my +sturdy horse some hours every day; such a sight, you may be sure, +brought forth old and young, sick and lame, to look at him and his +master. _Jocko_ put whole towns in motion, but never brought any affront +on his master; they came to look and to laugh, but not to deride or +insult. The post-boys, it is true, did not like to see their fraternity +_taken off_, in my _little Theatre_; but they seldom discovered it, but +by a grave salutation; and sometimes a good humoured fellow called him +comrade, and made _Jocko_ a bow; they could not laugh at his bad seat, +for not one of them rode with more ease; or had a handsomer laced +jacket. Mr. _Buffon_ says, the Monkey or _Maggot_, (and mine is the +latter, for he has no tail) make their grimace or chattering equally to +shew their anger or to make known their appetite. With all due deference +to this great naturalist, I must beg leave to say, that his observation +is not quite just; there is as much difference between the grimace of my +_Jocko_, when he is angry or hungry, and when he grins to shew delight, +as there is in a man, when he gnashes his teeth in wrath, or laughs from +mirth. + +Between _Avignon_ and this town I met a dancing bear, mounted by a +_Maggot_: as it was upon the high road, I desired leave to present +_Jocko_ to his grandfather, for so he appeared both in age and size; the +interview, though they were both males, was very affecting; never did a +father receive a long-lost child with more seeming affection than the +_old gentleman_ did my _Jocko_; he embraced him with every degree of +tenderness imaginable, while the _young gentleman_ (like other young +gentlemen of the present age) betrayed a perfect indifference. In my +conscience I believe it, there was some consanguinity between them, or +the reception would have proved more mutual. Between you and me, I +fear, were I to return to England, I might find myself a sad party in +such an interview. It is a sad reflection; but perhaps Providence may +wisely ordain such things, in order as men grow older, to wean them from +the objects of their worldly affections, that they may resign more +readily to the decree of fate. That good man, Dr. ARBUTHNOT, did not +seem to dread the approach of death on his own account, so much as from +the grievous affliction HE had reason to fear it would bring upon his +children and family. + + + + +LETTER XLI. + +LYONS, + +_The Harangue of the_ Emperor CLAUDIUS, _in the_ SENATE. _Copied from +the original Bronze plate in the Hotel de Ville, of_ Lyons. + + +FIRST TABLE. + +MOERERUM . NOSTR ::::: SII ::::::::: Equidem · primam · omnium · illam +· cogitationem · hominum · quam · maxime · primam · occursuram · mihi · +provideo · deprecor · ne · quasi · novam · istam · rem · introduci · +exhorrescatis · sed · illa · potius · cogitetis · quam · multa · in · +hac · civitate · novata · sint · et · quidem · statim · ab · origine · +vrbis · nostræ · in · quod · formas · statusque · res · P · nostra · +diducta · sit. + +Quandam · reges · hanc · tenuere · vrbem · nec tamen · domesticis · +successoribus · eam · tradere · contigit · supervenere · alieni · et · +quidam · externi · vt · Numa · Romulo · successerit · ex. Sabinis · +veniens · vicinus · quidem · se · tunc. + +Sed · tunc · externus · ut · Anco · Marcio · Priscus · Tarquinius · +propter · temeratum · sanguinem · quod · Patre · Demaratho · Corinthio · +natus · erat · et · Tarquiniensi · Matre · generoso · sed · inopi · ut · +quæ · tali · marito · necesse · habuerit · succumbere · cum · domi · +repelleretur. A · gerendis · honoribus · postquam · Roman · migravit · +regnum · adeptus · est · huic · quoque · et · filio · nepotive · ejus · +nam · et · hoc · inter · auctores · discrepat · insertus · Servius · +Tullius · si · nostros · sequimur · captiva · natus · ocresia · si · +tuscos · coeli · quandam · vivennæ · sodalis · fidelissimus · omnisque +· ejus · casus · comes · post · quam · varia · fortuna · exactus · cum · +omnibus · reliquis · cæliani · exercitus · Etruria · excepit · mentem · +cælium · occupavit · et · a · duce · suo · cælio · ita · appellitatus · +mutatoque · nomine · nam · Tusce · mostrana · ei · nomen · erat · ita · +appellatus · est · ut · dixi · et · regnum · summa · cum · rei · p · +utilitate · optinuit · deinde · postquam · Tarquini · superbi · mores · +invisi · civitati · nostræ · esse · coeperunt · qua · ipsius · qua · +filiorum · ejus · nempe · pertæsum · est · mentes · regni · et · +ad·consules. + +Annuos · magistratus · administratio · rei · p · translata · est · quid +· nunc · commemorem · dictatu · valentius · repertum · apud · majores · +nostros · quo · in · asperioribus · bellis · aut · in · civili · motu · +difficiliore · uterentur · aut · in · auxilium · plebis · creatos · +tribunos · plebei · quid · a · latum · imperium · solutoque · postea · +Decemvirali · regno · ad · consules · rursus · reditum · quid · +indecoris · distributum · consulare · imperium · tribunosque · militum · +consulari · imperio · appellatos · qui · seni · et · sæpe · octoni · +crearentur · quid · communicatos · postremo · cum · plebe · honores · +non · imperi · solum · sed · sacerdotiorum · quoque · jam · si · narrem +· bella p · quibus · coeperint · majores · nostri · et · quo · +processerimus · vereor · ne · nimio · insolentior · esse · videar · et · +quæsisse · jactationem · gloria · prolati · imperi · ultra · oceanum · +sed · illoc · potius · revertor · civitatem. + + +SECOND TABLE. + +:::::::::::::::::: SANE ::: NOVO :: DIVVS :: AUG ::: LVS. et · Patruus · +Ti · Cæsar · omnem · florem · ubisque · coloniarum · ac · municipiorum +· bonorum · scilicet · virorum · et · locupletium · in · hac curia · +esse · voluit · quid · ergo · non · Italicus · senator · Provinciali · +potior · est · jam · vobis · cum · hanc · partem · censuræ · meæ · ad · +probare · coepero · quid · de · ea · re · sentiam · rebus · ostendam · +sed · ne · provinciales · quidem · si · modo · ornare · curiam · +poterint · rejiciendos · puto. + +Ornatissimæ · ecce · colonia · volentissimaque Viennensium · quam · +longo · jam · tempore · senatores · huic · curiæ · confert · ex · qua · +colonia · inter · paucas · equestris · ordinis · ornamentum L · vestinum +· familiarissime · diligo · et · hodieque · in · rebus · meis · detineo +· cujus · liberi · tiorum · gradu · post · modo · cum · annis · +promoturi · dignitatis · suæ · incrementa · ut · dirum · nomen · +latronis · taceam · et · odi · illud · palæstricum · prodigium · quod · +ante · in · domum · consulatum · intulit · quam · colonia · sua · +solidum civitatis · Romanæ · beneficium · consecuta · est idem · de · +patre · ejus · possum · dicere · miserabili · quidem · invtilis · +senator · esse · non · possit tempus · est · jam · ri · CÆSAR · +Germanice · detegere · te · patribus · conscriptis · quo · tendat · +oratio · tua · jam · enim · ad · extremos · fines · Galliæ · Narbonensis +· venisti. + +Tot · ecce · insignes · juvenes · quot · intuetor · non · magis · sunt · +poenitendi · senatores · quam · ænitet · Persicum · nobilissimum · +virum · amicum · meum · inter · imagines · majorum · suorum · +Allobrogici · nomen · legere · quod · SL · hæc · ita · esse · +consentitis · quid · ultra · desideratis · quam · ut · vobis · digito · +demonstrem · solum · ipsum · ultra · fines · provinciæ · Narbonensis · +jam · vobis · senatores · mittere · quando · ex · Luguduno · habere · +nos · nostri · ordinis · viros · non · poenitet · timide · quidem · P +· C · vobis · provinciarum · terminos · sum · sed · destricte · jam · +comatæ · Galliæ · causa · argenda · est · in · qua · si · quis · hoc · +intuetur · quod · bello · per · decem · anno · exercuerunt · divom · +Julium · diem · opponat · centum · armorum · immobilem · fidem · +obsequiumque · multis · trepidis · rebus · nostris · plusquam · expertum +· illi · patri · meo · druso · Germaniam · subi · genti · tutam · quiete +· sua · securamque · a · tergo · pacem · præstiterunt · et · quidem · +cum · AD · census · novo · tum · opere · et in · adsueto · gallis · ad · +bellum · avocatus · esset · quod · opus · quam · arduum · sit · nobis · +nunc · maxime · quam · vis · nihil · ultra · quam · ut · publice · notæ +· sint · facultates · nostræ · exquiratur · nimis · magno · experimento +· cognoscimus. + +The above harangue, made by CLAUDIUS, in favor of the LYONOISE, and +which he pronounced in the Senate, is the only remains of the works of +this Emperor, though he composed many. _Suetonius_ says he composed +forty-three books of a history, and left eight compleat of his own life; +and adds, that he wrote more elegantly than judiciously. + + + + +LETTER XLII. + +LYONS. + + +I have now spent a month in my second visit to this great and +flourishing city, and fortunately took lodgings in a _Hotel_, where I +found the lady and sister of _Mons. Le Marquis De Valan_, whose +politeness to us I mentioned in a former letter at _Vienne_, and by +whose favour I have had an opportunity of seeing more, and being better +informed, than I could have been without so respectable an acquaintance. +At _Vienne_ I only knew his rank, here I became acquainted with his good +character, and fortune, which is very considerable in _Dauphine_, where +he has two or three fine seats. His Lady came to _Lyons_ to lye-in, +attended by the Marquis's sister, a _Chanoinesse_, a most agreeable +sensible woman, of a certain age; but the Countess is young and +beautiful. + +You may imagine that, after what I said of _Lyons_, on my way _to_ +Spain, I did not associate much with my own country-folks. On my return, +indeed, my principal amusement was to see as much as I could, in a town +where so much is to be seen; and in relating to you what I have seen, I +will begin with the _Hotel De Ville_; if it had not that name, I should +have called it a Palace, for there are few palaces so large or so noble; +on the first entrance of which, in the vestibule, you see, fixed in the +wall, a large plate of Bronze, bearing stronger marks of fire than of +age; on which were engraven, seventeen hundred years ago, two harangues +made by the Emperor _Claudius_ in the senate, in favour of the +_Lyonoise_, and which are not only legible at this day, but all the +letters are sharp and well executed; the plate indeed is broke quite +through the middle, but fortunately the fraction runs between the first +and second harangues, so as to have done but little injury among the +the letters. As I do not know whether you ever saw a copy of it, I +inclose it to you, and desire you will send it as an agreeable exercise, +to be well translated by my friend at Oxford. + +On the other side of the vestibule is a noble stair-case, on which is +well painted the destruction of the city, by so dreadful a fire in the +time of the Romans, that _Seneca_, who gives an account of it in a +letter to his friend, says, + + "_Una nox fuit inter urbem maximam et nullum._" + + i.e. One night only intervened between a great city and nothing. + +There is something awful in this scene, to see on one side of the +stair-case the conflagration well executed; on the other, strong marks +of the very fire which burnt so many ages ago; for there can be no +doubt, but that the Bronze plate then stood in the _Roman Hotel de +Ville_, and was burnt down with it, because it was dug up among the +refuse of the old city on the mountain called _Fourvire_, on the other +side of the river, where the original city was built.--In cutting the +letters on this large plate of Bronze, they have, to gain room, made no +distance between the words, but shewn the division only by a little +touch thus < with the graver; and where a word eroded with a C, or G, +they have put the touch within the concavity of the letter, otherwise it +is admirably well executed. + +Upon entering into the long gallery above stairs, you are shewn the late +King and Queen's pictures at full length, surrounded with the heads of +some hundred citizens; and in one corner of the room an ancient altar, +the _Taurabolium_, dug up in 1704, near the same place where +_Claudius's_ harangue was found; it is of common stone, well executed, +about four feet high, and one foot and a half square; on the front of +it is the bull's head, in demi relief, adorned with a garland of corn; +on the right side is the _victimary_ knife[A] of a very singular form; +and on the left the head of a ram, adorned as the bull's; near the point +of the knife are the following words, _cujus factum est_; the top of the +altar is hollowed out into the form of a shallow bason, in which, I +suppose, incense was burnt and part of the victims. + + [A] The knife, which is cut in demi relief, on the _Taurobolium_, + is crooked upon the back, exactly in the same manner, and form, as + may be seen on some of the medals of the Kings of Macedonia. + +The Latin inscription under the bull's head, is very well cut, and very +legible, by which it appears, that by the express order of CYBELE, the +reputed mother of the Gods, for the honour and health of the Emperor +_Antoninus Pius_, father of his country, and for the preservation of his +children, children, _Lucius Æmilius Carpus_[B] received the horns of +the bull, by the ministration of _Quintus Samius Secundus_, transported +them to the Vatican, and consecrated, at his own expence, this altar and +the head of the bull[C]; but I will send the inscription, and a +model[D] of the altar, as soon as I can have it made, as I find here a +very ingenious sculptor and modeller; who, to my great serprize, says +no one has hitherto been taken from it. And here let me observe, lest I +forget it, to say, that _Augustus_ lived three years in this city. + + [B] _Lucius Æmilius Carpus_ was a Priest, and a man of great + riches: he was of the quality of _Sacrovir_, and probably one of + the six Priests of the temple of Angustus.--_Sextumvir Augustalii_. + + [C] Several inscriptions of this kind have been found both in Italy + and Spain, but by far the greater number among the Gauls; and as + the sacrifices to the Goddess Cybele were some of the least ancient + of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which were suppressed on + the establishment of Christianity. Since we find one of the + Taurobolian inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of the + Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of the Heathen writers + on this head is very wonderful; for the only one who makes any + mention of them is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation on + the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, in his elaborate + account of the Taurobolium, has remarked. + + The ceremony of the consecration of the High Priest of Cybele, + which many learned men have mistaken for the consecration of the + Roman Pontifex Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest + infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed to that of the + Emperor himself. + + The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, wore the same + vestments without washing out the bloody stains, as long as they + would hold together. + + By these rites and baptisms by blood, they thought themselves, as + it were re-born to a life eternal. Sextilius Agefilaus Ædesius + says, that he was born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the + Taurobolium and Criobolium. + + Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, but also + others, who were not of that order; in particular cases the + regenerations were only promised for twenty years. + + Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which were erected at the + expence of whole cities and provinces, there were others also, + which were founded by the bounty of private people. We often meet + with the names of magistrates and priests of other Gods, who were + admitted into these mysteries, and who erected Taurobolia as + offerings for the safety of the Emperor, or their own. The rites of + the Taurobolia lasted sometimes many days. + + The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is on the same side with + the head of the bull, we have endeavoured to explain by filling up + the abbreviations which are met with in the Roman character. + + TAUROBOLIO MATRIS DEUM MAGNÆ IDÆÆ + QUOD FACTUM EST EX IMPERIO + MATRIS IDÆÆ DEUM + PRO SALUTE IMPERATORIS CÆSARIS + TITI ÆLII + ADRIANI ANTONINI AUGUSTI PII PATRIS PATRIÆ + LIBERORUMQUE EJUS + ET STATUS COLONIÆ LUGDUNENSIS + LUCIUS ÆMILIUS CARPUS SEXTUMVIR + AUGUSTALIS ITEM DENDROPHORUS + VIRES EXCEPIT ET A VATICANO + TRANSTULIT ARAM ET BUCRANIUM + SUO IMPENDIO CONSECRAVIT + SACERDOTE + QUINTO SAMMIO SECUNDO AB QUINDECEMVIRIS + OCCABO ET CORONA EXORNATO + CUI SANCTISSIMUS ORDO LUGDUNENSIS + PERPETUITATEM SACERDOTIS DECREVIT + APPIO ANNIA ATILO BRADUA TITO + CLODIO VIBIO VARO CONSULIBUS + LOCUS DATUS DICRETO DECURIONUM. + + [D] _The Model is now in the possession of the ingenious_ Dr. + HARRINGTON _at Bath_. + +The _Taurobolium_ was one of the great mysteries, you know, of the +Roman religion, in the observance of which, I think, they dug a large +hole in the earth, and covered it with planks, laid at certain +distances, so as to give light into the subterranean temple. The person +who was to receive the _Taurobolio_ then descended into the theatre, and +received on his head and whole body, the smoaking hot blood of the bull, +which was there sacrificed for that purpose. If a single bull was only +sacrificed, I think they call it a simple _Taurabolio_, if a ram was +added to it, as was sometimes done, it was then called a _Torobolia_, +and _Criobolio_; sometimes too, I believe a goat was also slain. + +After all the blood of the victim animals was discharged, the Priests +and Cybils retired beneath the theatre, and he who had received the +bloody sacrifice, came forth and exposed himself, besmeared with blood, +to the people, who all prostrated themselves before him, with +reverential awe, as one who was thereby particularly sanctified, and +whose person ought to be regarded with the highest veneration, and +looked upon with holy horror; nor did this sanctification, I think, end +with the ceremony, but rendered the person of the sanctified holy for +twenty years. An inscription cited by _Gruter_, seems to confirm this +matter, who, after speaking of one _Nepius Egnatius Faventinus_, who +lived in the year of Christ 176, says, + +_"Percepto Taurobolio Criobolioque feliciter,_" + +Concludes with these words, + + _"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis, + Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes._" + +The _bis denus orbis_ seems to imply, the space of twice ten years. + +And here I cannot help making a little comparison between the honours +paid by the Roman citizens to their Emperors, and those of the present +times to the Princes of the Blood Royal. You must know that the present +King's brother, came to _Lyons_ in the year 1775, and thus it is +recorded in letters of gold upon their quay: + + LOUIS XVI. REGNANT. + EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ. + SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV. + OU + MONSIEUR FRERE DU ROI + ET MADAME + SONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLE + CE QUAI + DE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCE + ET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULAT + DU DOUZE DU MEME MOIS + A ETE NOMME A PERPETUITE + QUAI MONSIEUR. + +If the _Bourgeoise_ of _Lyons_, however, are not men of genius, they are +ingenious men, and they have a most delightful country to dwell in. I +think I may say, that from the high hills which hang about this city, +and taking in the rivers, fertile vales, rude rocks, vine-yards, and +country seats, far and near, that _Lyons_ and its environs, afford a +greater variety of natural and artificial beauties, than any spot in +Europe. It is, however, by no means a place for the winter residence of +a stranger. Most of the natives advanced in years, were carried off last +winter. The surly winds which come down the Rhone, with impetuous +blasts, are very disagreeable and dangerous. I found the cold +intolerable in the beginning of May, out of the sunshine, and the sun +intolerable in it. In England I never wore but one under waistcoat; in +Spain, and in the south of France, I found two necessary. The Spaniards +wear long cloaks, and we laugh at them; but the laugh would come more +properly from them. There is in those climates a _vifness_ in the air +that penetrates through and through; and I am sure that such who travel +to the southward for the recovery of their health, ought to be ten times +more upon their guard, to be well secured against the keen blasts the +south of France, than even against an easterly wind in England. + +The disorder which carried off so many last winter at _Lyons_, was +called the Gripe. In a large hotel only one person escaped it, an +English Lady. They called it the _Gripe_, from the fast hold it took of +the person it seized; nor did it let them go till April. + +On my way here, I found it sometimes extremely hot; it is now the first +of May, and I am shaking by the side of a good fire, and have had one +constantly every day for this fortnight. + + + + +LETTER XLIII. + +LYONS. + + +The _Lyonoise_ think their town was particularly honoured by the +_Taurobolium_; but it was a common practice to offer that sacrifice not +only for the Emperor's health, but for the preservation of a city. There +are two of these altars in the town of _Letoure_; one consecrated for +the preservation of the Emperor _Gordian_, on which is the following +inscription: + + PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL. + AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINÆ PROQVE STATV CIVIT. + LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANO + II ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS M + EROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD. + +And in a little village near _Marseilles_, called _Pennes_, there is a +stone, on which is engraven, + + MATRI DEVM MAGNÆ IDEÆ + +And on another, in the same town, + + MATRI DEVM TAVROPOLIVM. + +I must not omit to give you a copy of a singular inscription on the +tomb of a mint-master which was found in _Lyons_, and is preserved +entire: + + NOBILIS TIB. CÆSARIUS AVG. SER ÆQ. MONET HIC + AD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ET + PERPETUA FILIA D.S.D. + +The most ancient money which has been found in and about this city, is +the little coin of _Mark Antony_; on one side of which is represented +the Triumvirate; on the other, a Lion, with the word _Lugudani_ under +it; on each side of the Lion are the letters A and XL. The antiquarians +here think those letters marked the value of the piece, and that it was +about forty _sous_; but is it not more probable, that this was only the +mint-master's touch? + +Nothing can be a stronger proof of the importance of this city in the +time of the Romans, than the immense expence they were at in erecting +such a number of grand aquæducts, one of which was eighteen leagues in +length; many parts of them are still visible; and it appears that they +spent for the reparation of them at _one_ time, near one thousand +talents; and here it was that the four grand Roman highways divided; one +of which went directly to the sea, and another to the _Pyrenees_. + +_Agrippa_, who was the constructor of most of these noble monuments of +Roman grandeur, would not permit the _Lyonoise_ to erect any monument +among them to his memory; and yet, his memory is, in a very particular +manner, preserved to this day in the very heart of the city, for in the +front of a house on the quay _de Villeroy_, is a medallion of baked +earth, which, I think, perfectly resembles him; sure I am it is an +unquestionable antique; it is a little disfigured indeed, and disgraced +by his name being written upon it in modern characters. But there is +another monument of _Agrippa_ here; it is part of the epitaph of an +officer or soldier of the third cohort, whose duty it was to take an +account of the expence of each day for the subsistence of the troops +employed to work on the high-ways, and this officer was called _A. +Rationibus Agrippæ_. + +There are an infinite number of Roman inscriptions preserved at _Lyons_, +among which is the following singular one: + + DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAM + TVAM RAPVERVNT. + +I have already told you of a modern monument erected by the _Lyonoise_, +and now, with grief and concern, I must tell you of an ancient one which +they have demolished! it was a most beautiful structure, called the tomb +of the Two Lovers; that, however, was a mistake; it was the tomb of a +brother and sister named _Amandas_, or _Amans_, for near where it stood +was lately found the following monumental inscription: + + D M + + ET MEMORIAE ÆTERNÆ OLIÆ TRIBVTÆ + FEMINÆ SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVS + AMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMÆ + SIBIQVE AMANTISSIMÆ P.C. ET + SVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT. + +I have seen a beautiful drawing of this fine monument, which stood near +the high road, a little without the town; the barbarian _Bourgeoises_ +threw it down about seventy years ago, to search for treasure. + +But enough of antiquities; and therefore I will tell you truly my +sentiments with respect to the south of France, which is, that _Lyons_ +is quite southward enough for an Englishman, who will, if he goes +farther, have many wants which cannot be supplied. After quitting +_Lyons_, he will find neither good butter, milk, or cream. At _Lyons_, +every thing, which man can wish for, is in perfection; it is indeed a +rich, noble, and plentiful town, abounding with every thing that is +good, and more _finery_ than even in _Paris_ itself. They have a good +theatre, and some tolerable actors; among whom is the handsomest +Frenchman I ever beheld, and, a little stiffness excepted, a good actor. + +Any young gentleman traveller, particularly _of the English nation_, who +is desirous of _replenishing his purse_, cannot, even in _Paris_, find +more convenient occasions to throw himself in _fortune's way_, than at +the city of _Lyons_. + +An English Lady, and two or three gentlemen, have lately been so +_fortunate there_, as to find lodgings _at a great Hotel_, gratis; and I +desire you will particularly _recommend a long stay at_ Lyons _to my +Oxonian friend_; where he may _see the world_ without looking out at a +window. + + + + +LETTER XLIV. + + +I find I omitted to give you before I left _Nismes_, some account of +Monsieur _Seguier_'s cabinet, a gentleman whose name I have before +mentioned, and whose conversation and company were so very agreeable to +me. Among an infinite number of natural and artificial curiosities, are +many ancient Roman inscriptions, one of which is that of _T. Julius +Festus_, which _Spon_ mentions in his _Melanges D'Antiquite_. There are +also a great number of Roman utensils of bronze, glass, and +earthen-ware. The Romans were well acquainted with the dangerous +consequences of using copper vessels[E] in their kitchens, as may be +seen in this collection, where there are a great many for that purpose; +but all strongly gilt, not only within, but without, to prevent a +possibility of _verdigris_ arising. There is also a bronze head of a +Colossal statue, found not many years since near the fountain of +_Nismes_, which merits particular attention, as well as a great number +of Roman and Greek medals and medallions, well preserved, and some which +are very rare. The natural curiosities are chiefly composed of fossils +and petrifications; among the latter, are an infinite number of +petrified fish _embalmed_ in solid stones; and where one sees the finest +membranes of the fins, and every part of the fish, delineated by the +pencil of nature, in the most exquisite manner; the greater part of +these petrifications were collected by the hands of the possessor, some +from _Mount Bola_, others from _Mount Liban_, _Switzerland_, _&c._ + + [E] See Dr. FALCONER, of _Bath_, his Treatise on this subject. + +Mr. _Seguier_'s _Herbary_ consists of more than ten thousand plants; but +above all, Mr. _Seguier_ himself, is the first, and most valuable part +of his cabinet, having spent a long life in rational amusements; and +though turned of four-score, he has all the chearfulness of youth, +without any of the garrulity of old age. When he honoured me with a +visit, at my country lodgings, he came on foot, and as the waters were +out, I asked him how he _got at me_, so dry footed? He had walked upon +the wall, he said; a wall not above nine inches thick, and of a +considerable length! + +And here let me observe that a Frenchman eats his _soup_ and _bouille_ +at twelve o'clock, drinks only _with_, not _after_ his dinner, and then +mixes water with his _genuine_ wine; he lives in a fine climate, where +there is not as with us, for six weeks together, easterly winds, which +stop the pores, and obstruct perspiration. A Frenchman eats a great +deal, it is true, but it is not all _hard meat_, and they never sit and +drink after dinner or supper is over.--An Englishman, on the contrary, +drinks much stronger, and a variety of fermented liquors, and often much +worse, and sits _at it_ many hours after dinner, and always after +supper. How then can he expect such health, such spirits, and to enjoy a +long life, free from pain, as most Frenchmen do; When the negro servants +in the West-Indies find their masters call _after_ dinner for a bowl of +punch extraordinary they whisper them, (if company are present) and ask, +"_whether they drink for drunk_, or _drink for dry_?" A Frenchman never +drinks for _drunk_.--While the Englishman is earning disease and misery +at his bottle, the Frenchman is embroidering a gown, or knitting a +handkerchief for his mistress. I have seen a Lady's sacque finely +_tamboured_ by a Captain of horse, and a Lady's white bosom shewn +through mashes netted by the man who made the snare, in which he was +himself entangled; though he made it he did not perhaps know the powers +of it till she _set it_. + + + + +LETTER XLV. + + +I write to you just as things come into my head, having taken very few +notes, and those, as you must perceive, often without much regard to +_unison_ or _time_. It has this minute occurred to me, that I omitted to +tell you on my journey onwards, that I visited a little town in +_Picardie_, called _Ham_, where there is so strong a castle, that it may +be called a _petit Bastile_, and which was then and still is, full of +state prisoners and debtors. To this castle there is a monstrous tower, +the walls of which are thirty six feet thick, and the height and +circumference are proportionable thereto; it was built by the _Conetable +de St. Paul_, in order to shut up his master, _Charles_ the VIth, King +of France, and contemporary, I think, with our _Henry_ the Vth; but such +are the extraordinary turns of all human affairs, that _Mons. le +Conetable_ was shut up in it himself many years, and ended his days +there.--The fate of this constable brings to my mind a circumstance that +happened under my _administration_, at _Land-Guard Fort_, when the King +was pleased to trust me with the command of it. I had not been +twenty-four hours in possession of what I thought a small sovereignty, +before I received a letter in the following terms: + +"SIR, Having observed horses grazing on the covered way, that _hath_ +done apparent damage, and may do more, I think it my duty to inform you, +that his Majesty does not permit horses to feed thereon, &c. &c. +(Signed) + + "ANTHONY GOODE, + Overseer of the Works." + +I never was more surprized, than to find my wings were to be thus clipt, +by a civil officer of the board of ordnance; however wrong I or my +horses had acted, I could not let Mr. GOODE _graze_ so closely upon my +authority, without a reprimand; I therefore wrote him an answer in terms +as follow: "that having seen a fat impudent-looking strutting fellow +about the garrison, it was my order that when his duty led him to +communicate any thing to me relative to the works thereof, that he came +himself, instead of writing impertinent letters." Mr. _Goode_ sent a +copy of his letter and mine to Sir _Charles Frederick_; and the post +following, he received from the Office of Ordnance, several printed +papers in the King's name, forbidding horses grazing on the WORKS, and +_ordering Mr. Goode_ to nail those orders up in different parts of the +garrison! but as I had not then learnt that either he, or his _red +ribband master_, had any authority to give out, even the King's orders, +in a garrison I commanded, but through my hands, I took the liberty, +while Mr. _Goode_ and his assistant-son were nailing one up _opposite to +my parlour window_, to send for a file of men and put them both into the +Black-hold, an apartment Mr. _Goode_ had himself built, being a +Master-Mason. By the time he had been ten minutes _grazing_ under this +_covered way_, he sent me a message, that he was _asthmatic_, that the +place was too close, and that if he died within a _year and a day_, I +must be deemed accessary to his death. But as I thought Mr. _Goode_ +should have considered, that some of the poor invalids too might now and +then be as subject to the asthma as he, it was a proper punishment, and +I kept him there till he knew the duty of a soldier, as well as that of +a mason; and as I would _his betters_, had they come down and ventured +to have given out orders in a garrison under my command; but instead of +getting me punished as a _certain gentleman_ aimed at, that able General +_Lord Ligonier_ approved my conduct, and removed the man to another +garrison, and would have dismissed him the ordnance service, had I not +become a petitioner in his favour; for he was too fat and old to work, +too proud and arrogant to beg, and he and _his advisers_ too +contemptible to be angry with.--But I must return to the castle of +_Ham_, to tell you what a dreadful black-hold there is in that tower; it +is a trap called by the French _des Obliettes_, of so horrible a +contrivance, that when the prisoners are to suffer in it, the mechanical +powers are so constructed, as to render it impossible to be again +opened, nor would it signify, but to see the body _molue_, i.e. ground +to pieces. + +There were formerly two or three _Obliettes_ in this castle; one only +now remains; but there are still several in the _Bastile_.--When a +criminal suffers this frightful death, (for perhaps it is not very +painful) he has no previous notice, but being led into the apartment, is +overwhelmed in an instant. It is to be presumed, however, that none but +criminals guilty of high crimes, suffer in this manner; for the state +prisoners in the _Bastile_ are not only well lodged, but liberal tables +are kept for them. + +An Irish officer was lately enlarged from the _Bastile_, who had been +twenty-seven years confined there; and though he found a great sum of +money in the place he had concealed it in a little before his +confinement, he told Colonel C----, of Fitz-James's regiment, that +"having out-lived his acquaintance with the world, as well as with men, +he would willingly return there again." + +At _Ham_ the prisoners for debt are quite separated from the state +prisoners; the latter are in the castle, the former in the tower. + +The death of _Lewis_ the XVth gave liberty to an infinite number of +unhappy people, and to many who would have been enlarged before, but had +been forgotten. When one of these unhappy people (a woman of fashion) +was told she might go out; then, (said she) I am sure _Lewis_ the XVth +is dead; an event she knew nothing of, tho' it was a full year after the +King's death.--Things are otherwise conducted now than in his reign; a +wicked vain woman then commanded with unlimited power, both in war and +domestic concerns. In this reign, there are able, and I believe virtuous +ministers. + +I suppose you think as I did, that Madame _Pompadour_ governed by her +own powerful charms; but that was not the case; she governed as many +other women do, by borrowed charms; she had a correspondence all over +the kingdom, and offices of intelligence, where _youth_, _beauty_, and +_innocence_, were registered, which were sent to her according to order; +upon the arrival of the _goods_, they were dressed, and trained for +_use_, under her inspection, till they were fit to be _shewn up_. She +had no regard to birth, for a shoe-maker's daughter of great beauty, +belonging to one of the Irish brigades, being introduced to the King, +he asked her whether she knew him? No: she did not: But did you ever see +me before, or any body like me? She had not, but thought him very like +the face on the _gros Eccuis_ of France. Madame _Pompadour_ soon found +out which of these girls proved most agreeable to the King, and such +were retained, the others dismissed.--The expence of this traffick was +immense. I am assured where difficulties of birth or fashion fell in the +way, ten thousand pounds sterling have been given. Had _Lewis_ the XVth +lived a few years longer, he would have ruined his kingdom. _Lewis_ the +XVIth bids fair to aggrandize it. + + + + +LETTER XLVI. + +POST-HOUSE, ST GEORGE, six leagues from LYONS. + + +I am particular in dating this letter, in hopes that every English +traveller may avoid the place I write from, by either stopping short, or +going beyond it, as it is the only house of reception for travellers in +the village, and the worst I have met with in my whole journey. We had +been scurvily treated here as we went; but having arrived at it after +dark, and leaving it early, I did not recollect it again, till the +mistress by her sour face and sorry fare betrayed it; for she well +remembered _us_. As a specimen of French auberge cookery, I cannot help +serving up a dish of spinnage to you as it was served to me at this +house. We came in early in the afternoon, and while I was in the +court-yard, I saw a flat basket stand upon the ground, the bottom of +which was covered with boiled spinnage; and as my dog, and several +others in the yard, had often put their noses into it, I concluded it +was put down for _their_ food, not _mine_, till I saw a dirty girl +patting it up into round balls, and two children, the eldest of them not +above three years old, slavering in and playing with it, one of whom, +_to lose no time_, was performing _an office_ that none could _do for +her_. I asked the maid what she was about, and what it was she was so +preparing? for I began to think I had been mistaken, till she told me it +was spinnage;--not for me, I hope, said I,--'_oui, pour vous et le +monde_.' I then forbad her bringing any to my table, and putting the +little girl _off her center_, by an angry push, made her almost as dirty +as the spinnage; and I could perceive her mother, the hostess, and some +French travellers who were near, looked upon me as a brute, for +_disturbing la pauvre enfant_; nevertheless, with my _entree_ came up a +dish of this _delicate spinnage_, with which I made the girl a very +pretty _Chapeau Anglois_, for I turned it, dish and all, upon her head; +this set the house in such an uproar, that, if there had not come in an +old gentleman like _Bourgeois_ of _Paris_, at that instant, I verily +believe I should have been turned out; but he engaged warmly in my +defence, and insisted upon it that I had treated the girl just as he +would have done, had she brought such a dirty dish to him after being +cautioned not to do so; nor should I have got any supper, had I not +prevailed on this good-natured man, who never eat any, to order a supper +for himself, and transfer it to me. He was a native of _Lyons_, and had +been, for the first time after thirty years absence, to visit his +relations there. My entertainment at this house, _outward-bound_, was +half a second-hand roasted turkey, or, what the sailors call a +_twice-laid_ dish, i.e. one which is _done over_ a second time. + +I know the French in general will not like to see this dirty charge, +brought even against an _aubergiste_, and much less to hear it said, +that this disregard to cleanliness is almost general in the public inns; +but truth justifies it, and I hope the publication may amend it. + +A modern French anonymous traveller, who I conclude by the company he +kept in England, is a man of fashion, gives in general a just account of +the English nation, their customs and manners; and acknowledges, in +handsome terms, the manner he was received by some of the first families +in England. He owns, however, he does not understand English, yet he has +the temerity to say, that _Gulliver's_ travels are the _chef d'oeuvre_ +of _Dean Swift_; but observes, that those travels are greatly improved +by passing through the hands of _Desfontaines_.--This gentleman must +excuse me in saying, that _Desfontaines_ neither understood English, nor +_Dean Swift_, better than he does. He also concludes his first volume, +by observing, that what a French Ambassador to England said of that +nation, in the year 1523, constitutes their character at this day! +'Alas! poor England! thou _be'st_ so closely situated, and in such daily +conversation with the polite and polished nation of France, thou hast +gained nothing of their ease, breeding, and compliments, in the space of +two hundred and fifty years!'--What this gentleman alludes to, is the +Ambassador's letter to the _Conetable Montmorency_, previous to the +meeting of _Henry_ the Eighth and _Francis_ the First, near _Ardres_; +for, (says the Ambassador) _sur-tout je vous prie, que vous ostiez de la +Cour, ceux qui unt la reputation d'etre joyeux & gaudisseur, car c'est +bien en ce monde, la chose la plus haie de cette nation_. And in a few +lines after, he foists in an extract from a Scotchman, one _Barclay_, +who, in his _Examen of Nations_, says, _Jenenc connoit point de plus +aimable creature, qui un François chez qui l'enjoument est tempore par +le judgment, & par discretion_; to all which I subscribe: but such men +are seldom to be met with in any kingdom. + +This gentleman says, the most remarkable, or rather the only act of +gaiety he met with in _London_, was an harangue made for an hour in the +House of Lords, previous to the trial of Lord _Byron_; and that, as he +afterwards understood, it was made by a drunken member of parliament. He +says it made him and every body laugh exceedingly; but he laughed only +(I presume) because every body else did, and relates the story, I fear, +merely to make it a national laugh; for the harangue was certainly very +ill placed, and the mirth it produced, very indecent, at a time a Peer +of the realm was to be brought forth, accused of murder; and the +untimely death of a valuable and virtuous young man, revived in every +body's memory. + +This is the unfavourable side of what the gentleman says of the first +people in England. Of the peasants and lower order, he observes, that, +though they are well fed, well cloathed, and well lodged, yet they are +all of a melancholy turn.--The French have no idea of what we call _dry +humour_; and this gentleman, perhaps, thought the English clown +melancholy, while he was laughing in his sleeve at the foppery of his +_laquais_. + +These observations put me in mind of another modern traveller, a man of +sense and letters too, who observes, that the ballustrades at +_Westminster_ bridge are fixed very close together, to prevent the +English getting through to drown themselves: and of a Gentleman at +_Cambridge_, who, having cut a large pigeon-hole under his closet door, +on being asked the use of it, said, he had it cut for an old cat which +had kittens, to go in and out; but added, _that he must send for the +carpenter, to cut little holes for the young ones_. His _acute visitor_ +instantly set up a _horse_ laugh, and asked him whether the little cats +could not come out at the same hole the big one did? The other laughing +in his turn, said, he did not _think of that_. + +Though I have spoken with freedom of this French traveller's remarks, +yet I must own that, in general, he writes and thinks liberally, and +speaks highly of the English nation, and very gratefully of many +individuals to whom he was known; and, I dare say, a Frenchman will find +many more mistakes of mine, which I shall be happy to see pointed out, +or rectified: but were I to pick out the particular objects of laughter, +pity, and contempt, which have fallen in my way, in twice crossing this +great continent, I could make a second _Joe Miller_ of one, and a _Jane +Shore_ of the other. If this traveller could have understood the +_Beggars' Opera_, the _humour_ of _Sam. Foote_, or the pleasantry among +English sailors, watermen, and the lower order of the people, he would +have known, that, though the English nation have not so much vivacity +as the French, they are behind-hand with no nation whatever, where true +wit and genuine humour are to be displayed. What would he have said, +could he have seen and entered into the spirit of the procession of the +_miserable Scalds_, or Mr. _Garrick_ in _Scrub_; _Shuter_, _Woodward_, +Mrs. _Clive_, or even our little _Edwin_ at _Bath_? Had he seen any of +these things, he must have laughed with the multitude, as he did in the +House of Lords, though he had not understood it, and must have seen how +inimitably the talents of these men were formed, to excite so much mirth +and delight, even to a heavy _unpolished_ English audience. + + + + +LETTER XLVII. + + +From _St. George_ to _Macon_ is five leagues. Nothing on earth can be +more beautiful than the face of this country, far and near. The road +lies over a vast and fertile plain, not far distant from the banks of +the _Soane_ on one side, and adorned with mountains equally fertile, and +beautiful, on the other. It is very singular, that all the cows of this +part of the country are white, or of a light dun colour, and the dress +of all the _Maconoise_ peasants as different from any other province in +France, as that of the Turkish habit; I mean the women's dress, for I +perceived no difference among the men, but that they are greater clowns, +than any other French peasants. The women wear a broad bone lace ruff +about their necks, and a narrow edging of the same sort round their +caps, which are in the form of the charity girls' caps in England; but +as they must not bind them on with any kind of ribband, they look rather +_laid upon_ their heads, than _dressed upon them_; their gowns are of a +very coarse light brown woollen cloth, made extremely short-waisted, and +full of high and thick plaits over the hips, the sleeves are rather +large, and turned up with some gaudy coloured silk; upon the shoulders +are sewed several pieces of worsted livery lace, which seem to go quite +under their arms, in the same manner as is sometimes put to children to +strengthen their leading-strings; upon the whole, however, the dress is +becoming, and the very long petticoat and full plaits, have a graceful +appearance. + +At _Lyons_ I saw a _Macinoise_ girl of fashion, or fortune, in this +dress; her lace was fine, her gown silk, and her shoulder-straps of +silver; and, as her head had much more of the _bon gout_ than the _bon +ton_, I thought her the most inviting object I had seen in that city, +my delicate landlady at _Nismes_ always excepted. I think France cannot +produce such another woman _for beauty_ as _Madame Seigny_. + +I bought a large quantity of the _Macon_ lace, at about eight-pence +English a yard, which, at a little distance, cannot easily be +distinguished from fine old _pointe_. + +Between _St. George_ and _Macon_, at a time we wanted our breakfast, we +came to a spot where two high roads cross each other, and found there a +little _cabbin_, not unlike the Iron House, as to whim, but this was +built, sides, top, and bottom, with sawed boards; and as a little bit of +a board hung out at the door informed us they sold wine, I went in, and +asked the mistress permission to boil my tea-kettle, and to be permitted +to eat our breakfast in her pretty _cabbin_? The woman was knitting; she +laid down her work, rose up, and with the ease and address of a woman of +the first fashion, said we did her honour, that her house, such as it +was, and every thing in it, were at our service; she then sent a girl to +a farmer's hard by, for milk, and to a village a quarter of a league +distant, for hot bread; and while we breakfasted, her conversation and +good breeding made up a principal part of the _repas_; she had my horse +too brought to the back part of her _cabbin_, where he was well fed from +a portable manger. I bought of her two bottles of white wine, not much +inferior to, and much wholesomer than, Champaigne, and she charged me +for the whole, milk, bread, fire, _conversation_, and wine, thirty six +_sols_, about seventeen pence English! Though this gentlewoman, for so I +must call her, and so I believe she is, lived in such a small hut, she +seemed to be in good circumstances, and had _liqueurs_, tea, and a great +variety of _bons choses_ to sell. This was the only public house, (if it +maybe called by that name,) during my whole journey _out_ and _in_, +where I found perfect civility; not that the publicans in general have +not civility _in their possession_, but they will not, either from +_pride_ or _design_, _produce it_, particularly to strangers. My +_wooden-house landlady_ indeed, was a prodigy; and it must be confessed, +that no woman of the lower order in England, nor even of the middling +class, have any share of that ease and urbanity which is so common among +the lower order of the _people_ of this kingdom: but the woman I now +speak of, had not, you will perceive, the least design even upon my +purse; I made no previous agreement with her for my good fare, and she +scorned to take any advantage of my confidence; and I shewed my sense of +it, by giving her little maid eight times more than she ever received +for such services before--an English shilling. + +Let not this single, and singular woman, however, induce you to trust to +the confidence of a French _aubergiste_ especially a _female_; you may +as well trust to the conscience of an itinerant Jew. Frenchmen are so +aware of this, that have heard a traveller, on a _maigre_ day, make his +bargain for his _aumlet_ and the number of eggs to be put in it, with an +exactness scarce to be imagined; and yet the upshot was only two pence +English. + +The easy manner in which a French officer, or gentleman, can traverse +this mighty kingdom, either for pleasure or business, is extremely +agreeable, and worthy of imitation among young British officers.--In +England, if an Ensign of foot is going a journey, he must have two +horses, and a groom, though he has nothing but a regimental suit of +cloaths, and half a dozen shirts to carry; his horses too must _set both +ends well_ because he is a _Captain_ upon the road! and he travels at +about five times the expence of his pay. + +The French officer buys a little _biddet_, puts his shirts and best +regimental coat into a little _portmanteau_, buckles that behind his +saddle, and with his sword by his side, and his _croix_ at his +button-hole, travels at the expence of about three shillings a day, and +often less, through a kingdom where every order of people shew him +attention, and give him precedence. + +I blush, when I recollect that I have _rode_ the risque of being wet to +the skin because I would not _disgrace my saddle_, nor load my back with +a great coat; for I have _formerly_, as well as _latterly_, travelled +without a servant. + +I have a letter now before me, which I received a few days ago from a +French Captain of foot, who says, _sur le champ j'ay fait seller ma +petite Rossinante (car vous scavez que j'ay achete un petit cheval de 90 +livres selle et bride) et me voila a Epernay chez Monsieur Lechet_, &c. +This gentleman's whole pay does not amount to more than sixty pounds a +year, yet he has always five guineas in his pocket, and every +convenience, and some luxuries about him; he assists now and then an +extravagant brother, appears always well dressed; and last year I bought +him a ticket in the British lottery: he did not consider that he +employed an unfortunate man to buy it, and I _forgot_ to remind him of +it. + +After saying thus much of a virtuous young man (_though a Frenchman_) +there will be no harm in telling you his name is _Lalieu_, a Captain in +the regiment _du Maine_.--Before I took my last leave of him, talking +together of the horrors of war, I asked him what he would do if he were +to see me _vis-a-vis_ in an hostile manner? He embraced me, and said, +"turn the but end of my fusee towards you, my friend." I thank God that +neither his _but-end_, nor my _muzzle_ can ever meet in that manner, and +I shall be happy to meet him in any other. + +_P.S._ I omitted to say, that the _Maconoise_ female peasants wear +black hats, in the form of the English straw or chip hats; and when they +are tied on, under the chin, it gives them with the addition of their +round-eared laced cap, a decent, modest appearance which puts out of +countenance all the borrowed plumage, dead hair, black wool, lead, +grease, and yellow powder, which is now in motion between _Edinburgh_ +and _Paris_. + +It is a pity that pretty women, at least, do not know, that the +simplicity of a Quaker's head-dress, is superior to all that art can +contrive: and those who remember the elegant _Miss Fide_, a woman of +that persuasion, will subscribe to the truth of my assertion. And it is +still a greater pity, that plain women do not know, that the more they +adorn and _artify_ their heads, the more conspicuous they make their +natural defects. + + + + +LETTER XLVIII. + + +At _Challons sur la Soane_, (for there is another town of the same name +in _Champaigne_) I had the _honor_ of a visit from _Mons. le Baron +Shortall_, a gentleman of an ancient family, _rather in distress at this +time_, by being _kept out_ of six and thirty thousand a year, his legal +property in Ireland; but as the Baron made his visit _ala-mode de +capuchin Friar_, without knocking, and when only the female part of my +family were in the apartment, he was dismissed _rather abruptly_ for a +man of _his high rank_ and _great fortune in expectation_. This +dismission, however, did not dismay him; he rallied again, with the +reinforcement of _Madame la Baroness_, daughter, as he positively +affirmed, of _Mons. le Prince de Monaco_; but as I had forbad his being +_shewn up_, he desired me to _come down_, a summons curiosity induced +me to obey. Never, surely, were two people _of fashion_ in a more +pitiable plight! he was in a _russet brown black_ suit of cloaths; +Madame _la Baroness_ in much the same colour, wrapt up in a tattered +black silk capuchin; and I knew not which to admire most, their folly or +their impudence; for surely never did an _adventurer_ set out with less +_capabilities_ about him; his whole story was so flagrant a fib, that in +spite of the _very respectable certificates of My Lord Mayor, John +Wilkes, and Mr. Alderman Bull_, I was obliged to tell him plainly, that +I did not believe him to be a gentleman, nor his wife to be a relation +of the Prince of _Monaco_. All this he took in good part, and then +assured me they were both very hungry, and without meat or money; I +therefore ordered a dinner at twenty _sols_ a head; and, as I sat by +while they eat it, I had reason to believe that he told me _one plain +truth_, for in truth they eat as if they had never eaten before. After +dinner the Baron did me the honour to consult with me _how_ he should +get down to _Lyons_? I recommended to him to proceed by _water_; but, +said he, my dear Sir, I have no money;--an evil I did not chuse to +redress; and, after several unsuccessful attempts at my purse, and some +at my person,--he whispered me that even six livres would be acceptable; +but I held out, and got off, by proposing that the Baroness should write +a letter to the Prince her father, to whom I had the honour to be known, +and that I would carry him the letter, and enforce their prayer, by +making it my own. This measure she instantly complied with, and +addressed her father _adorable Prince_; but concluded it with a name +which could not belong to her either as maid, wife, or widow. I remarked +this to the _Baron_, who acknowledged at once _the mistake_, said she +had signed a false name, and she should write it over again; but when I +observed to him that, as the Prince knew the handwriting of his _own_ +dear child, and as the name of women is _often varying by marriage_, or +_miscarriage_, it was all one: to this he agreed; and I brought off the +letter, and my purse too, for forty _sols_; yet there was so much +falshood, folly, and simplicity in this _simple pair of adventurers_, +that I sorely repented I did not give them their passage in the _coche +d'eau_ to _Lyons_; for he could not speak a word of French, nor _Madame +la Baroness_ a word of English; and the only _insignia_ of distinction +between them, was, a vast clumsy brass-hilted sword which the Baron, +instead of wearing at his side, held up at his nose, like a Physician's +gold-headed cane.--When I took my leave of this _Sir James Shortall_, +(for he owned _at last_ he was _only a Baronet_) he promised to meet me +_next time_ dressed in his blue and silver. + +I verily believe my Irish _adventurer_ at _Perpignan_, is a gentleman, +and therefore I relieved him; I am thoroughly persuaded my _Challons_ +adventurer is not, yet perhaps he was a real object of charity, and his +true tale would have produced him better success than his _borrowed +story_. _Sir James_ was about sixty, _Lady Shortall_ about fifty.--_Sir +James_ too had a pretty large property in America, and would have +visited his estates on that continent, had I not informed him of the +present unhappy differences now subsisting between that and the mother +country, of which he had not heard a single syllable. + + +After having said thus much, I think I must treat you with a copy of +_Lady Shortall's_ letter, a name very applicable to their unhappy +situation, for they did indeed seem short of every thing;--so here it +is, _verbatim et literatim_: + +"_Monsieur Thickness gentilhomme anglaise_ + +"Adorable preince de monaco que tout mordonne deme, lise au de fus de +cette lette le non deun digne homme qui me randu ser visse, je suis +malade, le convan; serois preferable a mon bouneur je veux sepandant +sauve non marij mais je me meure tre seve mon derinier soupire, je ne le +doit qua vous. + + "JULIE BARONNE DE CHATTERRE. + _le 18 May 1776._" + +"_A sont altess ele preince de Monaco, dans sont hautelle rue de +Vareinne a Paris_." + + + + +LETTER XLIX. + + +From _Challons_ to _Bonne_, is five leagues. _Bonne_ is a good town, +well walled-in, pleasantly situated, and remarkable for an excellent and +well-conducted Hospital, where the poor sick are received _gratis_, +without distinction, and where the rich sick are accommodated with +nurses, physicians, medicines, food, and lodging, with every assistance +that can be wanted, for four livres a day. The apartments in which the +poor are received, are so perfectly clean and sweet, that they are fit +for people of any condition; but those provided for the better sort, are +indeed sumptuously furnished. The women who act as nurses, are of a +religious order, and wear a particular, decent, and uniform habit, to +which their modest deportment exactly coincides; yet most of them are +young, and many of them very beautiful. + +Between these two towns we met an English servant, in a rich laced +livery, conducting, behind a post-chaise, a large quantity of baggage; +and soon after, a second servant, in the same uniform; this excited our +curiosity, and we impatiently proceeded, in hopes of meeting the +equipage, which it was natural to expect would soon follow; instead of +which, it was an old English four-wheel chaise, the _contents_ of which +were buckled close up behind a pair of dirty leather curtains; and on +the coach-box sat, by the side of the driver, a man who had the +appearance of an English farmer. This contrast rather increased than +lessened our curiosity; and, therefore, at _Bonne_, I made some enquiry +about them of the post-master; who told me they came in, and set off, +separately, just as I had met them; but that one servant paid for the +horses to all the carriages, and that the woman _behind the curtain, +according to custom, did not chuse to shew herself_. Just as I was +returning with this blind account, an English servant, who I had not +perceived, but who stood near, told me, he was sure _as how_ it was +either the _Duchess_ of _Kingston_ or _Mrs Rudd_, for that he _seed_ her +very plain. I was much surprized at finding an Englishman so near me; +and the singularity of the man's observation had a very forcible effect +upon me. When the mirth which it unavoidably occasioned, was a little +subsided, I could not help correcting, in gentle terms, (though I was +otherwise glad to see even an English footman so far from _English +land_) a man in his station for speaking of people of high rank with so +much indecent levity, and then told him, that there was no such person +living as the _Duchess_ of _Kingston_, but that it was probable the Lady +he thought he had seen might be _Lady Bristol_; that there was not +however, the least resemblance between the person of her Ladyship and +the other Lady he had mentioned, the latter being young, thin, and +rather handsome; whereas _Lady Bristol_ was very fat, and advanced in +years; I therefore suspected, I told him, that he had confounded the +trials of those two Ladies, and fancied he saw a likeness in their +persons, by an association of ideas; but in reality, there was as much +difference in their crimes as in their persons. _Crimes_! did I say? +that is an improper expression, because I am informed _Mrs. Rudd_ has +been acquitted; but that, if the foreign papers might be relied on, +_Lady Bristol_ had been found guilty of BIGAMY: But as he seemed not to +understand what I meant by _Bigamy_, or the _association of ideas_, I +was unavoidably led into a conversation, and explanation, with this +young man; which nothing but my pride, and his ignorance, could justify; +but as the fellow was overjoyed to see me, I could not help giving him +something to drink, and with it a caution never to speak of people of +high rank and condition, even behind their backs, but under their proper +names or titles, and with decency and respect: he then begged my +pardon, and assured me, if he had known that either of the Ladies had +been a friend of mine, he would not have coupled them so improperly +together; and I am thoroughly convinced, the man left me with a +resolution, never to hazard a conjecture without a better foundation +than that he started to me, and which I rather believe he hit off +_extempore_, to speak to me, and shew himself my countryman, than from +really suspecting that the woman behind the curtain was either _Lady +Bristol_, or _Mrs. Rudd_; though I was inclined to think it very +probable, for I had seen _Lord Bristol_ on his way through _Lyons_ from +_Italy_ to _England_, and had been informed, _Lady Bristol_ was then on +her road to _Italy_; in which case, I, like the footman, had my +conjectures, and accounted for the leather curtains being so _closely +buckled to_. + +These are trifling remarks, you will say; but if a sign-painter can +paint only a bear, those who employ him must have a bear for their +sign; nevertheless, we have all a certain curiosity to know even the +most trifling actions, or movements of people, who by their virtues or +vices, especially if they are people of rank or condition, have +occasioned much talk in the world; and therefore, ridiculous as this +incident is, yet as we have long known one of the Ladies, and often +_admired_ both, I could not let either one or the other pass me +unnoticed, on a road too, where even an English Duchess (if she would +own the truth) would feel a secret delight in meeting of a +Hyde-park-corner groom. + +I have already mentioned what partiality and degree of notice, +countrymen take of each other when they meet far from home. That notice +is always in proportion to the distance. Had my _Bonne_ footman spoke of +_Lady Bristol_, or _Mrs. Rudd_, in such free terms as _how he seed 'em_, +&c. &c. at Hyde-park-corner, or in Tyburn-road, I should have knocked +him down with the but end of my whip; but at _Bonne_ (five hundred +miles from either of those places) he and I were _quatre cousins_; and I +could not help treating him with a bottle of _vin de pais_. + + + + +LETTER L. + + +From _Bonne_ we intended to have taken the high road to _Dijon_; but +being informed that there was another, though not much frequented, by +way of _Autun_, and that _that_ town, which was a Roman colony, still +contained many curious monuments worthy of notice, we pursued the +latter, which twisted in between a vast variety of small, but fertile +valleys, watered with brooks, bounded by romantic hills, and some high +mountains, most of which were covered with vines, which _did_ produce +the most delicious red wine in the world; I say _did produce_, for the +high _gout_ and flavour of the Burgundy grape has for many years failed, +and perhaps so as never to return again. We, however, missed the road to +_Autun_, and, after four leagues' journey through a most delightful +country, we arrived at a miserable auberge in a dirty village called +_Yozy_, which stands upon the margin of a large forest, in which, some +years since, the _diligence_ from _Lyons_ to _Paris_ was attacked by a +banditti, and the whole party of travellers were murdered: ever since +that fatal day, a guard of the _Marechaussee_ always escort the +_diligence_ through this deep and dreadful forest, (so they called it), +and we were persuaded it was right to take a couple of the +_Marechaussee_, and did so; but as we found the forest by no means so +long, deep, or dreadful, as it had been represented, we suspected that +the advice given us, was more for the sake of the men who _guarded us_, +than from any regard _to us_, two men could have made no great +resistance against a banditti; and a single man would hardly have +meddled with us. + +The next day we passed thro' _Arnay-le-Duc_, a pretty country village, +three leagues from _Yozy_, and it being their annual fair-day, we had an +opportunity of seeing all the peasantry, dressed in their best, and +much chearfulness, not only in the town, but upon the road before we +arrived, and after we passed it. Amongst the rest of the company, were a +bear and a monkey, or rather what _Buffon_ calls the _maggot_. I desired +the shew-man to permit my _maggot_, as he was the least, the youngest, +and the _stranger_, to pay a visit to _Mons. Maggot_, the elder, who +embraced the _young gentleman_ in a manner which astonished and +delighted every body, myself only excepted; but as _my young gentleman_ +seemed totally indifferent about the _old one_, I suspected he had +_really met his father_, and I could not help moralizing a little. + +From _Arnay-le-Duc_ we passed through _Maupas_, _Salou_, _Rouvray_, +_Quisse la forge_, and _Vermanton_ to _Auxerre_, the town where the +French nobleman _was said_ to live, whom Dr. _Smollett_ treated so very +roughly, and who, in return, was so _polite_ as to _help to tie_ the +Doctor's baggage behind his coach! + +About a quarter of a mile without this town, stands a royal convent, +richly endowed, and delightfully situated; the walls of which take in +near twenty acres of land, well planted on the banks of a river; and +here I left my two daughters, to perfect themselves in the French +language, as there was not one person within the convent, nor that I +could find, within the town, who could speak a word of English. And here +I must not omit to tell you, how much I was overcome with the generosity +of this virtuous, and I must add amiable, society of _religieux_. Upon +my first inquiry about their price for board, lodging, washing, cloaths, +and in short, every thing the children did, or might want, they required +a sum much beyond the limits of my scanty income to give; but before we +left them, they became acquainted with _some circumstances_, which +induced them to express their concern that the price I had offered (not +half what they had demanded) could not be taken. We therefore retired, +and had almost fixed the children in a cheaper convent, but much +inferior in all respects, within the town, when we received a polite +letter from the Lady Abbess, to say, that after consulting with her +sister-hood, they had come to a resolution to take the children at our +_own_ price, rather than not shew how much they wished to oblige us. +Upon this occasion, we were _all_ admitted within the walls of the +convent; and I had the pleasure of seeing my two daughters joined to an +elegant troop of about forty genteel children, and of leaving them under +the care of the same number of _religieux_. And yet these good people +knew nothing of us, but what we ourselves communicated to them, not +being known, nor knowing any person in the town.--The Lady-Abbess of +this convent is a woman of high rank, about twenty-four years of age, +and possesses as large a share of beauty as any reasonable woman, even +on the _outside_ of a convent, could wish for. + +_Auxerre_ is a good town, pleasantly situated, and in a plentiful and +cheap country. + +From _Auxerre_ to _Ioigni_ is five leagues. The _Petit bel Vue_ on the +banks of the river is very pleasantly situated, but a dreadful one +within side, in every respect, being a mixture of dirt, ignorance, and +imposition; but it is the only inn for travellers, and therefore +travellers should avoid it. In order to put my old hostess in good +humour, I called early for a bottle of Champaigne; and in order to put +me into a bad humour, she charged me the next day for two; but I +_charged her_ with _Mons. Le Connetable_, who behaved like a gentleman, +though I think he was only a _marchand de tonneau_: but then he was a +_wine_ not _beer_ cooper, who hooped the old Lady's barrel. + +Where-ever I was ill-used or imposed upon, I always sent a pretty heavy +packet by the post, after I had run down a hundred miles or two, by way +of _draw-back_, upon my host, and recompence to the King's high road; +for in France, + + _"Like the Quakers' by-way, + 'Tis plain without turnpikes, so + nothing to pay"_ + +An old witch, who had half starved us at _Montpellier_, for want of +provisions, when we went, and for want of fire to dry us, when we came +back, left a piece of candle in my budget, which I did not omit to +return by the post, _well packed up_, lest it should grease other +packets of more importance, by riding an hundred leagues; besides this +it was accompanied by a very civil _letter of advice_, under another +cover. + + + + +LETTER LI. + + +The next town of any note is _Sens_, a large, _ragged_, ancient city; +but adorned with a most noble Gothic cathedral, more magnificent than +even that of _Rheims_, and well worthy of the notice of strangers; it is +said to have been built by the English: With the relicks and +_custodiums_ of the host, are shewn the sacerdotal habits, in which +Archbishop _Becket_ (who resided there many years) said mass, for it was +his head-quarters, when he _left_ Britain, as well as _Julius Cæsar_'s +before he went there. The silver hasps, and some of the ornaments of +these garments, are still perfect, though it has undergone so many +darnings, as to be little else. + +_Becket_ was a very tall man; for though it has many tucks in it, yet it +is generally too long for the tallest priest in the town, who +constantly says mass in it on _St. Thomas_'s day. + +How times and men are changed! This town, which resisted the arms of +_Cæsar_ for a considerable time, was put in the utmost consternation by +_Dr. Smollett_'s causing his travelling blunderbuss to be only fired in +the air, a circumstance "which greatly terrified all the _petit monde!_" +It is very singular, that the Doctor should have frightened a French +nobleman of _Burgundy_, by shaking his cane at him, and even made him +assist in the most servile offices; and in the next town, terrify all +the common people, by only firing a blunderbuss in the air! + +I would not willingly arraign a dead man with telling two fibbs so close +upon the back of each other; but I am sure there was but that single +French nobleman, in this mighty kingdom, who would have submitted to +such insults as the Doctor _says_ he treated him with; nor any other +town but _Sens_, where the firing of a gun would have so terrified the +inhabitants; for, drums, guns, and noise of every sort, seem to afford +the common French people infinite pleasure. + +I spent in this town a day or two, and part of that time with a very +agreeable Scotch family, of the name of _Macdonald_, where Lieutenant +Colonel _Stuart_ was then upon a visit. + +I have some reason to think that _Sens_ is a very cheap town. Several +English, Scotch, and Irish families reside in it. + +From _Sens_ to _Port sur Yonne_ is three leagues, and from _Yonne_ to +_Foussart_ the same distance. + +At the three Kings at _Foussart_, suspecting there was a cat behind the +bed in wait for my bird, I found, instead thereof, a little _narrow +door_, which was artfully hid, and which opened into another room; and +as I am sure the man is a cheat, I suspect too, that upon a _good +occasion_, he would have made some _use_ of his little door. + +_Foussart_ is a small place, consisting only of three or four public +houses. From thence to _Morret_, is three leagues, on which road is +erected a noble pillar of oriental marble, in memory of the marriage of +_Lewis_ the XVth. Soon after we passed this monument, we entered into +the delightful forest of _Fontainbleau_; and passing three leagues to +the center of it, we arrived at that ancient royal palace: it stands +very low, and is surrounded by a great many fine pieces of water, which, +however, render the apartments very damp. The King and royal family had +been there six weeks, and were gone but ten days, and with them, all the +furniture of the palace was also gone, except glasses, and a few +pictures, of no great value. In a long, gallery are placed, on each +side of the wall, a great number of stags' heads, carved in wood, and +upon them are fixed the horns of stags and bucks, killed by the late, +and former Kings; some of which are very _outre_, others singularly +large and beautiful. + +_Fontainbleau_ is a good town, stands adjacent to the palace; and as the +gardens, park, &c. are always open, it is a delightful summer residence. +We staid a few days there, to enjoy the shady walks, and to see the +humours of a great annual fair, which commenced the day after we +arrived. All sorts of things are sold at this fair; but the principal +business is done in the _wine way_, many thousand pieces of the inferior +Burgundy wine being brought to this market. + +We made two little days' journey from _Fontainbleau_ to _Paris_, a town +I entered with concern, and shall leave with pleasure.--As I had +formerly been of some service to _Faucaut_ who keeps the _Hotel +d'York_, when he lived in _Rue de Mauvais Garçon_ I went to this +_famous Hotel_, which would have been more in character, if he had given +it the name of his former street, and called it, _L'Hotel de Mauvais +Garçon_ for it is an hospital of bugs and vermin: the fellow has got the +second-hand beds of _Madame Pompadour_, upon his first floor, which he +_modestly_ asks thirty _louis d'ors_ a month for! All the rest of the +apartments are pigeon-holes, filled with fleas, bugs, and dirt; and +should a fire happen, there is no way of escaping. Nothing should be +more particularly attended to in _Paris_ than the security from fire, +where so many, and such a variety of strangers, and their servants, are +shut up at night, within one _Porte Cochere_. + + + + +LETTER LII. + +PARIS. + + +I found no greater alteration in _Paris_, after ten years' absence from +it, than the prodigious difference of expence; most articles, I think, +are one-third dearer, and many double; a horse is not half so well fed +or lodged at _Paris_ as at _London_; but the expence is nearly a guinea +a week, and a stranger may drive half round the city before he can lodge +himself and his horses under the same roof.[F] + + [F] _Paul Gilladeau_ who lately left the Silver Lion, at _Calais_, + has, I am informed, opened a Livery Stable at _Paris_, upon the + _London_ plan, in partnership with _Dessein_, of the _Hotel + d'Angleterre_ at _Calais_: a convenience much wanted, and + undertaken by a man very likely to succeed. + +The beauties, the pleasures, and variety of amusements, which this city +abounds with, are, without doubt, the magnets which attract so many +people of rank and fortune of all nations to it; all which are too well +known to be pointed out by me.--To a person of great fortune in the +_hey-day_ of life, _Paris_ may be preferable even to _London_; but to +one of my age and walk in life, it is, and was ten years ago, the least +agreeable place I have seen in France.--Walking the streets is extremely +dangerous, riding in them very expensive; and when those things which +are worthy to be seen, (and much there is very worthy) have been seen, +the city of _Paris_ becomes a melancholy residence for a stranger, who +neither plays at cards, dice, or deals in the principal manufacture of +the city; i.e. _ready-made love_, a business which is carried on with +great success, and with more decency, I think, that even in _London_. +The English Ladies are _weak_ enough to attach themselves to, and to +love, one man. The gay part of the French women love none, but receive +all, _pour passer le tems_.--The _English_, unlike the _Parisian_ +Ladies, take pains to discover _who_ they love; the French women to +dissemble with those they hate. + +It is extremely difficult for even strangers of rank or fortune, to get +among the first people, so as to be admitted to their suppers; and +without that, it is impossible to have any idea of the luxury and stile +in which they live: quantity, variety, and show, are more attended to in +France, than neatness. It is in England alone, where tables are served +with real and uniform elegance; but the appetite meets with more +provocatives in France; and the French _cuisine_ in that respect, +certainly has the superiority. + +Ten years ago I had the honour to be admitted often to the table of a +Lady of the first rank. On _St. Ann's-day_, (that being her name-day) +she received the visits of her friends, who all brought either a +valuable present, a poesy, or a compliment in verse: when the dessert +came upon the table, which was very magnificent, the middle plate +seemed to be the finest and fairest fruit (_peaches_) and I was much +surprized, that none of the Ladies, were helped by the gentlemen from +_that_ plate: but my surprize was soon turned into astonishment! for the +peaches suddenly burst forth, and played up the Saint's name, (_St. +Ann_) in artificial fire-works! and many pretty devices of the same +kind, were whirled off, from behind the coaches of her visitors, to +which they were fixed, as the company left the house, which had a pretty +effect, and was no indelicate way of _taking a French leave_. + +There is certainly among the French people of fashion an ease and +good-breeding, which is very captivating, and not easily obtained, but +by being bred up with them, from an early age; the whole body must be +formed for it, as in dancing, while there is the pliability of youth; +and where there is, as in France, a constant, early, and intimate +correspondence between the two sexes. Men would be fierce and savage, +were it not for the society of the other sex, as may be seen among the +Turks and Moors, who must not visit their own wives, when other men's +wives are with them. In France, the Lady's bed-chamber is always open, +and she receives visits in bed, or up, with perfect ease. A noble Lord, +late ambassador to this country, told me, that when he visited a young +and beautiful woman of fashion, (I think too it was a first visit after +marriage) she received him sitting up in her bed; and before he went, +her _fille de chambre_ brought his Lordship _Madame le Comtesse_'s shift +elegantly festooned, which his Lordship had the honour to put over the +Lady's head, as she sat in bed!--nor was there, by that favour, the +least indecency meant; it was a compliment intended; and, as such only, +received. Marks of favour of _that_ sort, are not marks of _further +favours_ from a French Lady. + +In this vast city of amusements, among the _other arts_, I cannot help +pointing out to your particular notice, _Richlieu_'s monument in the +_Sorbonne_, as an inimitable piece of modern sculpture[G] by +_Girardeau_; and _Madame la Valliere's_ full-length portrait by _le +Brun_: She was, you know, mistress to _Lewis_ the XIVth, but retired to +the convent, in which the picture now is, and where she lived in +repentance and sorrow above thirty years.[H] + + [G] VOLTAIRE says, this monument is not sufficiently noticed by + strangers. + + [H] MADAME VALLIERE, during her retirement, being told of the death + of one of her sons, replied, "I should rather grieve for his birth, + than his death." + +The _connoisseurs_ surely can find no reasonable fault with the +monumental artist; but they do, I think, with _le Brun_; the drapery, +they say, is too full, and that she is overcharged with garments; but +fulness of dress, adds not only dignity, but decency, to the person of +a fine woman, who meant (or the painter for her) to hide, not to expose +her charms. + +If fulness be a fault, it is a fault that _Gainsborough_, _Hoare_, +_Pine_, _Reynolds_, and many other of our modern geniuses are _guilty +of_; and if it be _sin_, the best judges will acquit them for committing +it, where dignity is to be considered. + +_Madame Valliere_ appears to have been scattering about her jewels, is +tearing her hair, crying, and looking up to the heavens, which seem +bursting forth a tempest over her head. The picture is well imagined, +and finely executed. + +I found upon the bulk of a _portable shop_ in _Paris_, a most excellent +engraving from this picture,[I] and which carried me directly to visit +the original; it is indeed stained and dirty, but it is infinitely +superior to a later engraving which now hangs up in all the print shops, +and I suppose is from the first plate, which was done soon after the +picture was finished. Under it are written the following ingenious, tho' +I fear, rather impious lines: + + Magdala dam gemmas, baccisque monile coruscum + Projicit, ac formæ detrahit arma suæ: + Dum vultum lacrymis et lumina turbat; amoris + Mirare insidias! hac capit arte Deum. + + [I] In the possession of Mr. GAINSBOROUGH. + +Shall I attempt to unfold this writer's meaning? Yes, I will, that my +friend at _Oxford_ may laugh, and do it as it ought to be done. + + I. + + The pearls and gems, her beauty's arms, + See sad VALLIERE foregoes; + And now assumes far other charms + Superior still to those. + + II. + + The tears that flow adown her cheek, + Than gems are brighter things; + For these an earthly Monarch seek, + But those the KING of Kings. + +This seems to have been the author's thought, if he thought +_chastely_.--Shall I try again? + + The pearls and gems her beauty's arms, + See sad VALLIERE foregoes: + Yet still those tears have other charms, + Superior far to those: + With those she gained an earthly Monarch's love: + With these she wins the KING of Kings above. + +Yet, after all, I do suspect, that the author meant more than even _to +sneer_ a little at _poor Madam Valliere_; but, as I dislike common-place +poetry, (and poetry, as you see, dislikes _me_) I will endeavour to give +you the literal meaning, according to my conception, and then you will +see whether our _joint wits_ jump together. + +While MAGDALENE throws by her bracelets, adorned with gems and pearls, +and (thus) disarms her beauty: while tears confound her countenance and +eyes, + + With wonder mark the stratagems of love, + With this she captivates the GOD above. + +The impious insinuation of the Latin lines, is the reason, I suppose, +why they were omitted under the more modern impression of this fine +print, and very middling French poetry superseding them. + + + + +LETTER LIII. + + +PARIS. + +If you do not use _Herreis_' bills, I recommend to you at _Paris_, a +French, rather than an English banker; I have found the former more +profitable, and most convenient. I had, ten years since, a letter of +credit on _Sir John Lambert_, for £300, from _Mess. Hoares_. The +_Knight_ thought proper, however, to refuse the payment of a twenty +pound draft I gave upon him; though I had not drawn more than half my +credit out of his hands. _Mons. Mary_, on whom I had a draft from the +same respectable house, this year will not do _such things_; but on the +contrary, be ready to serve and oblige strangers to the utmost of his +power: he speaks and writes English very well, and will prove an +agreeable and useful acquaintance to a stranger in _Paris_. His sister +too, who lives with him, will be no less so to the female part of your +family. His house is in _Rue Saint Sauveur_. + +The English bankers pay in silver, and it is necessary to take a +wheel-barrow with you to bring it away; a small bag will do at the +French bankers'. + +There is as much difference between the bankers of _London_ and bankers +in _Paris_, as between a rotten apple and a sound one. You can hardly +get a word from a London banker, but you are sure of getting your money; +in _Paris_, you will get _words_ enough, and civil ones too. Remember, +however, I am speaking only of the treatment I have experienced. There +may be, and are, no doubt, English bankers at _Paris_ of great worth, +and respectable characters. + +It is not reckoned very decent to frequent coffee-houses at _Paris_; but +the politeness of _Monsieur_ and _Madame Felix, au caffe de Conti_, +opposite the _Pont neuf_, and the English news-papers, render their +house a pleasant circumstance to me; and it is by much the best, and +best situated, of any in _Paris, au vois le monde_. + +I am astonished, that where such an infinite number of people live in so +small a compass, (for _Paris_ is by no means so large as _London_) that +they should suffer the dead to be buried in the manner they do, or +within the city. There are several burial pits in _Paris_, of a +prodigious size and depth, in which the dead bodies are laid, side by +side, without any earth being put over them till the ground tier is +full; then, and not till then, a small layer of earth covers them, and +another layer of dead comes on, till by layer upon layer, and dead upon +dead, the hole is filled with a mass of human corruption, enough to +breed a plague; these places are enclosed, it is true, within high +walls; but nevertheless, the air cannot be _improved_ by it; and the +idea of such an assemblage of putrifying bodies, in one grave, so thinly +covered, is very disagreeable. The burials in churches too, often prove +fatal to the priests and people who attend; but every body, and every +thing in _Paris_, is so much alive, that not a soul thinks about the +dead. + +I wish I had been born a Frenchman.--Frenchmen live as if they were +never to die. Englishmen die all _their lives_; and yet as _Lewis_ the +XIVth said, "I don't think it is so difficult a matter to die, as men +generally imagine, when they try in earnest." + +I must tell you before I leave _Paris_, that I stept over to _Marli_, to +see the Queen; I had seen the King nine years ago; but he was not then a +King over eight millions of people, and the finest country under the +sun; yet he does not seem to lay so much stress upon his mighty power as +might be expected from so young a prince, but appears grave and +thoughtful. I am told he attends much to business, and endeavours to +make his subjects happy. His resolution to be inoculated, immediately +after succeeding to such a kingdom, is a proof of his having a great +share of fortitude. In England such a determination would have been +looked upon with indifference; but in France, where the bulk of the +people do not believe that it secures the patient from a second attack; +where the clergy in general consider it unfavourable, even in a +religious light; and where the physical people, for want of practice, do +not understand the management of the distemper, so as it is known in +England; I may venture to say, without being charged with flattery, that +it was an heroic resolution: add to this, the King knowing, that if his +subjects followed his example, it must be chiefly done by their own +surgeons and physicians, he put himself under their management alone, +though I think _Sutton_ was then at _Paris_. + +The Queen is a fine figure, handsome, and very sprightly, dresses in +the present _gout_ of head dress, and without a handkerchief, and +thereby displays a most lovely neck. + +I saw in a china shop at _Paris_, the figure of the King and Queen +finely executed, and very like, in china: the King is playing on the +harp, and the Queen dropping her work to listen to the harmony. The two +figures, about a foot high, were placed in an elegant apartment, and the +_toute ensemble_ was the prettiest toy I ever beheld: the price thirty +guineas. + +I shall leave this town in a few days, and take the well-known and +well-beaten _route Anglois_ for _Calais_, thro' _Chantilly_, _Amiens_, +and _Boulogne_, and then I shall have twice crossed this mighty kingdom. + + + + +LETTER LIV. + + +CALAIS. + +I am now returned to the point from whence I sat out, and rather within +the revolution of one year; which, upon the whole, though I met with +many untoward circumstances, has been the most interesting and +entertaining year of my whole life, and will afford me matter of +reflection for the little which remains unfinished of that journey we +must all take sooner or later, a journey from whence no traveller +returns.--And having said so much of myself, I am sure you will be glad +to change the subject from man to beast, especially to such a one as I +have now to speak of. + +I told you, when I set out, that I had bought a handsome-looking English +horse for seven guineas, but a little touched in his wind; I can now +inform you, that when I left this town, he was rather thin, and had a +sore back and shoulder; both which, by care and caution; were soon +healed, and that he is returned fair and fat, and not a hair out of its +place, though he drew two grown persons, two children, (one of thirteen +the other ten years old) a very heavy French cabriolet, and all our +baggage, nay, almost all my goods, chattels, and worldly property +whatever, outward and homeward, except between _Cette_ and _Barcelona_, +_going_, and _Lyons_ and this town _returning!_ I will point out to you +one of his day's work, by which you will be able to judge of his general +power of working: At _Perpignan_, I had, to save him, hired post-horses +to the first town in Spain, as I thought it might be too much for him to +ascend and descend the _Pyrenees_ in one day; beside sixteen miles to +the foot of them, on this side, and three to _Jonquire_ on the other; +but after the horses were put to, the post-master required me to take +two men to _Boulou_, in order to hold the chaise, and to prevent its +overturning in crossing the river near the village. Such a flagrant +attempt to impose, determined me to take neither horses nor men; and at +seven o'clock I set off with _Callee_ (that is my houyhnhnm's name) and +arrived in three hours at _Boulou_, a paltry village, but in a situation +fit for the palace of AUGUSTUS! + +So far from wanting men from _Perpignan_ to conduct my chaise over the +river, the whole village were, upon our arrival, in motion after the +JOB. We, however, passed it, without any assistance but our own weight +to keep the wheels down, and the horse's strength and sturdiness, to +drag us through it. In about three hours more we passed over the summit +of this great chain of the universe; and in two more, arrived at +_Jonquire_: near which village my horse had a little bait of fresh mown +hay, the first, and last, he eat in that kingdom. And when I tell you +that this faithful, and (for a great part of my journey) only servant I +had, never made a _faux pas_, never was so tired, but that upon a pinch, +he could have gone a league or two farther; nor ever was ill, lame, +physicked, or bled, since he was mine; you will agree, that either he is +an uncommon good horse, or that his master is a good groom! Indeed I +will say that, however fatigued, wet, hundry, or droughty I was, I never +partook of any refreshment till my horse had every comfort the inn could +afford. I carried a wooden bowl to give him water, and never passed a +brook without asking him to drink.--And, as he has been my faithful +servant, I am now his; for he lives under the same roof with me, and +does nothing but eat, drink, and sleep.--As he never sees me nor hears +my voice, without taking some affectionate notice of me, I ventured to +ask him _tenderly_, whether he thought he should be able to draw two of +the same party next year to _Rome?_ No tongue could more plainly express +his willingness! he answered me, _in French_, indeed, _we-we-we-we-we_, +said he; so perhaps he might not be sincere, tho' he never yet deceived +me. If, however, he should not go, or should out-live me, which, is very +probable, my dying request to you will be, to procure him a peaceful +walk for the remainder of his days, within the park-walls of some humane +private gentleman; though I flatter myself the following petition will +save _you_ that trouble, and _me_ the concern of leaving him without +that comfort which his faithful services merit. + + + + +_To_ SIR JAMES TYLNEY LONG, _Bart._ + +_A Faithful Servant's humble Petition_, + + +SHEWETH, + +That your petitioner entered into the service of his present master, at +an advanced age, and at a time too, that he laboured under a pulmonic +disorder, deemed incurable; yet by gentle exercise, wholesome food, and +kind usage, he has been enabled to accompany his master from _Calais_ to +_Artois_. _Cambray_, _Rheims_, _St. Dezier_, _Dijon_, _Challons_, +_Macon_, _Lyons_, _Pont St. Esprit_, _Pont du Garde_, _Nismes_, +_Montpellier_, _Cette_, _Narbonne_, _Perpignan_ the _Pyrenees_ +_Barcelona_, _Montserrat_, _Arles_, _Marseilles_, _Toulouse_, _Avignon_, +_Aix_, _Valence_, _Paris_, and back to _Calais_, in the course of one +year: And that your petitioner has acquitted himself so much to his +master's satisfaction, that he has promised to take him next year to +_Rome_; and upon his return, to get him a _sine-cure_ place for the +remainder of his days; and, as your petitioner can produce a certificate +of his honesty, sobriety, steadiness, and obedience to his master; and +wishes to throw himself under the protection of a man of fortune, honour +and humanity, he is encouraged by his said master to make this his +humble prayer to you, who says that to above three hundred letters he +has lately written, to ask a small boon for himself, he did not receive +above three answers that gave him the pleasure your's did though he had +twenty times better pretensions to an hundred and fifty. And as your +petitioner has _seen a great deal of the world, as well as his master_, +and has always observed, that such men who are kind to their +fellow-creatures, are kind also to brutes; permit an humble brute to +throw himself at your feet, and to ask upon his return from _Rome_ a +_lean-to_ shed, under your park-wall, that he may end his days in his +native country, and afford a _repas_, at his death, to the dogs of a +Man who feeds the poor, cloaths the naked, and who knows how to make use +of the noblest privilege which a large fortune can bestow,--that of +softening the calamities of mankind, and making glad the hearts of those +who are oppressed with misfortunes.--Your petitioner, therefore, who has +never, been upon his _knees before_ to any man living, humbly prays that +he may be admitted within your park-pail, and that he may partake of +that bounty which you bestow in common to your own servants, who, by age +or misfortunes are past their labour; in which request your petitioner's +master impowers him to use his name and joint prayer with + + CALLEE. + +I do hereby certify, that nothing is advanced in the above petition, but +what is strictly true, and that if the petitioner had been able to +express himself properly, his merits and good qualities would have +appeared to much greater advantage, as well as his services; as he has +omitted many towns he attended his master to, besides a variety of +smaller journies; that he is cautious, wary, spirited, diligent, +faithful, and honest; that he is not nice, but eats, with appetite, and +good temper, whatever is set before him; and that he is in all respects +worthy of that asylum he asks, and which his master laments more on his +account than his own, that he cannot give him. + + PHILIP THICKNESSE. + + _Calais, the 4th of Nov._ + 1776. + + + + +LETTER LV. + +CALAIS. + + +On our way here, we spent two or three days at _Chantilly_, one, of +fifty _Chatteaus_ belonging to the PRINCE OF CONDE: for, though we had +visited this delightful place, two or three times, some years ago, yet, +beside its natural beauties, there is always something new. One spot we +found particularly pleasing, nay flattering to an Englishman; it is +called _l'Isle d'Amour_, in which there are some thatched cottages, a +water-mill, a garden, shrubbery, &c. in the English taste, and the whole +is, in every respect, well executed. The dairy is neat, and the milkmaid +not ugly, who has her little villa, as well as the miller. There is also +a tea-house, a billiard-room, an eating-room, and some other little +buildings, all externally in the English village stile, which give the +lawn, and serpentine walks that surround them, a very pastoral +appearance. The eating-room is particularly well fancied, being covered +within, and so painted as to produce a good idea of a close arbor; the +several windows, which are pierced through the sides, have such forms, +as the fantastic turn of the bodies of the painted trees admit of; and +the building is in a manner surrounded with natural trees; the room, +when illuminated for the Prince's supper, has not only a very pleasing +effect, but is a well executed deception, for the real trees falling +into perspective with those which are painted, through the variety of +odd-shaped windows, has a very natural, and consequently a very pleasing +effect; but what adds greatly to the deception, is, that at each corner +of the room the floor is opened, and lumps of earth thrown up, which +bear, in full perfection, a great variety of flowers and flowering +shrubs. We had the honour to be admitted while the Prince of _Conde_, +the Duke and Duchess of _Bourbon_, the Princess of _Monaco_, and two or +three other ladies and gentlemen were at supper; a circumstance which +became rather painful to us, as it seemed to occasion some to the +company, and particularly to the Prince, who inquired who we were, and +took pains to shew every sort of politeness he could to strangers he +knew nothing of. The supper was elegantly served on plate; but there +seemed to me too many servants round the table. The conversation was +very little, and very reserved. I do not recollect that I saw scarce a +smile during the whole time of supper. + +The Prince is a sprightly, agreeable man, something in person like _Lord +Barrington_; and the _Duke_ of _Bourbon_ so like his father, that it was +difficult to know the son from the father. + +The _Duchess_ of _Bourbon_ is young, handsome, and a most accomplished +lady. + +During the supper, a good band of music played; but it was all wind +instruments. Mr. _Lejeune_, the first bassoon, is a most capital +performer indeed. + +After the dessert had been served up about ten minutes, the Princess of +_Monaco_ rose from the table, as did all the company, and suddenly +turning from it, each lady and gentleman's servant held them a water +glass, which they used with great delicacy, and then retired. + +The Princess of _Monaco_ is separated from the Prince her husband; yet +she has beauty enough for any Prince in Europe, and brought fortune +enough for two or three. + +The Duchess of _Bourbon_ had rather a low head-dress, and without any +feather, or, that I could perceive, _rouge_; the Princess of _Monaco's_ +head-dress was equally plain; the two other ladies, whose rank I do not +recollect, wore black caps, and hats high dressed. There were eight +persons sat down to table, and I think, about twenty-five servants, in +and out of livery, attended. + +The next day, we were admitted to see the Prince's cabinet of natural +and artificial curiosities; and as I intimated my design of publishing +some account of my journey, the Prince was pleased to allow me as much +time as I chose, to examine his very large and valuable collection; +among which is a case of gold medallions,(72) of the Kings of France, in +succession, a great variety of birds and beasts, ores, minerals, +petrifactions, gems, cameos, &c. There is also a curious cabinet, lately +presented to the Prince by the King of Denmark; and near it stood a most +striking representation, in wax, of a present said to be _served up_ to +a late unfortunate Queen; it is the head and right hand of _Count +Struensee_, as they were taken off after the execution; the head and +hand lie upon a silver dish, with the blood and blood vessels too, well +executed; never surely was any thing so _sadly_, yet so finely done. I +defy the nicest eye, however near, to distinguish it (suppose the head +laid upon a pillow in a bed) from nature; nor must Mrs. _Wright_, or any +of the workers in wax I have ever yet seen, pretend to a tythe of the +perfection in that art, with the man who made this head.--Sad as the +subject is, I could not withstand the temptation of asking permission to +take a copy of it; and fortunately, I found the man who made it was then +at _Paris_,--nor has he executed his work for me less perfect than that +he made for the Prince.--I have been thus particular in mentioning this +piece of art, because, of the kind, I will venture to say, it is not +only _deadly_ fine, but one of the most perfect deceptions ever seen. + +When you, or any of the ladies and gentlemen who have honoured this poor +performance of mine with their names, or their family or friends, pass +this way, I shall be happy to embrace that occasion, to shew, that I +have not said more of this inimitable piece of art, than it merits; nor +do I speak thus positively from my own judgment, but have the concurrent +opinion of many men of unquestionable judgment, that it is a +master-piece of art; and among the rest, our worthy and valuable friend +Mr. _Sharp_, of the _Old Jewry_. + +Before we left _Chantilly_, we had a little concert, to which _my train_ +added one performer; and as it was the only string instrument, it was no +small addition. + +The day we left this charming place, we found the Prince and all his +company under tents and pavilions on the road-side, from whence they +were preparing to follow the hounds. + +At _Amiens_, there is in the _Hotel de Ville_, a little antique god in +bronze, which was found, about four years ago, near a Roman urn, in the +earth, which is very well worthy of the notice of a _connoisseur_; but +it is such as cannot decently be described; the person in whose custody +it is, permitted me to take an impression from it in wax; but I am not +_quite so good_ a hand at waxwork as the artist mentioned above, and yet +my little houshold-god has some merit, a merit too that was not +discovered till three months after it had been fixed in the _Hotel de +Ville_; and the discovery was made by a female, not a male, +_connoisseur_. + +It is said, that a Hottentot cannot be so civilized, but that he has +always a hankering after his savage friends, and _dried chitterlins_; +and, that gypsies prefer their roving life, to any other, a circumstance +that once did, but now no longer surprizes me; for I feel such a desire +to wander again, that I am impatient till the winter is past, when I +intend to visit _Geneva_, and make the tour of Italy; and if you can +find me cut a sensible valetudinarian or two, of either sex, or any +age, who will travel as we do, to see what is to be seen, to make a +little stay, where _the place_, or _the people_ invite us to do so, who +can dine on a cold partridge, in a hot day, under a shady tree; and +travel in a _landau and one_, we will keep them a _table d'hote_, that +shall be more pleasant than expensive, and which will produce more +health and spirits, than half the drugs of Apothecary's Hall. + +If God delights so much in variety, as all things animate and inanimate +sufficiently prove, no wonder that man should do so too: and I have now +been so accustomed to move, though slowly, that I intend to creep on to +my _journey's end_, by which means I may live to have been an inhabitant +of every town almost in Europe, and die, as I have lately (and wish I +had always) lived, a free citizen of the whole world, slave to no sect, +nor subject to any King. Yet, I would not be considered as one wishing +to promote that disposition in others; for I must confess, that it is in +England alone, where an innocent and virtuous man can sit down and enjoy +the blessings of liberty and his own chearful hearth, in full confidence +that no earthly power can disturb it; and the best reason which can be +offered in favour of Englishmen visiting other kingdoms, is, to enable +them, upon their return, to know how to enjoy the inestimable blessings +of their own. + + + + +LETTER LVI. + + +For what should I cross the streight which divides us, though it were +but _half_ seven leagues? we should only meet to part again, and +purchase pleasure, as most pleasures are purchased, too dearly; I have +dropt some heavy tears, (ideally at least) over poor BUCKLE'S[J] grave, +and it is all one to a man, now with GOD! on what King's soil such a +_tribute as that_ is paid: had some men of all nations known the +goodness of his heart as we did, some men of all nations would grieve as +we do. When I frequented _Morgan's_[K] I used him as a touch-stone, to +try the hearts of other men upon; for, as he was not rich, he was out of +the walk of knaves and flatterers, and such men, who were moot +prejudiced in his favour at first sight, and coveted not his company +after a little acquaintance, I always avoided as beings made of base +metal. It was for this reason I despised that ****** ****, (you know who +I mean) for you too have seen him _snarl_, _and bite_, _and play the +dog_, even to BUCKLE! + + [J] WILLIAM BUCKLE, Esq. + + [K] MORGAN'S Coffee-House, Grove, BATH. + +Our Sunday night's tea club, round his chearful hearth, is now for ever +dissolved, and SHARPE and RYE have administered their last friendly +offices with a potion of sorrow. + +Were I the hermit of _St. Catharine_, I would chissel his name as deeply +into one of my pine-heads, as his virtues are impressed on my memory. +Though I have lost _his guinea_, I will not lose his name; he looked +down with pity upon me when here; who can say he may not do so still? I +should be an infidel, did not a few such men as he _keep me back_. + +And now, my dear Sir, after the many trifling subjects in this very long +correspondence with you, I will avail myself of this good one, to close +it, on the noblest work of GOD, AN HONEST MAN. The loss of such a +friend, is sufficient to induce one to lay aside all pursuits, but that +of following his example, and to prepare to follow him. + +If you should ever follow me _here_, I flatter myself you will find, +that I have, to the best of my poor abilities, made such a sketch of +_men and things_ on this side of the water, that you will be able to +discover some likeness to the originals. A bad painter often hits the +general features, though he fall ever so short of the graces of +_Titian_, or the _Morbidezza_ of _Guido_. I am sure, therefore, you and +every man of candour, will make allowances for the many inaccuracies, +defects, &c. which I am sensible these letters abound with, tho' I am +incapable of correcting them. My journey, you know was not made, as most +travellers' are, to indulge in luxury, or in pursuit of pleasures, but +to soften sorrow, and to recover from a blow, which came from a mighty +hand indeed; but a HAND still MORE MIGHTY, has enabled me to resist it, +and to return in health, spirits, and with that peace of mind which no +_earthly power_ can despoil me of, and with that friendship and regard +for you, which will only cease, when I cease to be + + PHILIP THICKNESSE. + + _Calais, Nov. 4, + 1776._ + +P.S. I found _Berwick's_ regiment on duty in this town: it is commanded +by _Mons. le Duc de Fitz-James_, and a number of Irish gentlemen, my +countrymen, (for so I will call them.) You may easily imagine, that men +who possess the natural hospitality of their own country, with the +politeness and good-breeding of this, must be very agreeable +acquaintance in general: But I am bound to go farther, and to say, that +I am endeared to them by marks of true friendship. The King of France, +nor any Prince in Europe, cannot boast of troops better disciplined; nor +is the King insensible of their merit, for I have lately seen a letter +written by the King's command from _Comte de St. Germain_, addressed to +the officers of one of these corps, whereby it appears, that the King is +truly sensible of their distinguished merit; for braver men there are +not in any service:--What an acquisition to France! what a loss to +Britain! + +As the _Marquis_ of _Grimaldi_ is retired from his public character, I +am tempted to send you a specimen of his private one, which flattering +as it is to me, and honourable to himself, I should have withheld, had +his Excellency continued first minister of Spain; by which you will see, +that while my own countrymen united to set me in a suspicious light, +(though they thought otherwise) the ministers politeness and humanity +made them tremble at the duplicity of their conduct; and had I been +disposed to have acted the same sinister part they did, some of them +might have been reminded of an old Spanish proverb, + + "_A las màlas lénguas tigéras_" + + "Muy S^or. mio. Por la carta de I^o del corr^te. veo su + feliz llegada a esta ciudad, en donde habia tomado una casa, y por + las cartas que me incluye, y debuelbo, reconosco los terminos + honrados y recomendables con que ha efectuado su salida de + Inglaterra, cosa que yo nunca podria dudar. + + "Deseo que a V.S. le va' ya muy bien en este Reyno, y espero que me + avifara el tiempo que se propusiere detener en Barcelona, y tambien + quando se verificara su yda a Valencia: cuyo Pais se ha creydo el mas + propio para su residencia estable, por la suavidad del clima y demas + circunstantias.--V.S. me hallara pronto a complacerle y sevirle en lo + que se le ofrezca: que es quendo en el dia puedo decirle, + referiendome ademas a mis cartas precedentes communicadas por medio + de ... Dios quiere a V.S. M^o c^o d^o S^r el 14 Nov^re. de 1775. + + "B L.M. en. S. + Su mayor fer^or. + El Marq^s de GRIMALDI, + _A Don Felipe Thickness_." + +_A Madame_ THICKNESSE. + +Voila, Madame, quelques amusemens de ma plume, vous avez paru les +desirer, mon empressement a vous obeir sera le merite de ces legeres +productions; la premiere a eu assez de succes en France, je doute +qu'elle puisse en avoir un pareil en Angleterre, parce que le mot n'a +peut-etre pas la meme signification ce que nous appellons Grelot est une +petite cochette fermee que l'on attache aux hochets des enfans pour les +amuser; dans le sens metaphysique on en fait un des attributs de la +folie: Ice je l'employe comme embleme de gaiete et d'enfance. Le Pritems +est une Epitre ecrite de la campagne a un de mes amis; j'etois sous le +charme de la creation, pour ainsi dire; les vers en font d'une +mesuretres difficile. + +La description de Courcelles est celle d'une terre qu'avoit ma mere, et +ou j'ai passe toute ma jeunesse; enchantee de son paysage, et de la vie +champetre que j'aime passion, je l'adressois a un honnete homme de +Rheims que j'appellois par plaisanterie mon Papa: ce que j'ai de +meilleur dans mon porte-feuille, ce sont des chansons pour mon mari; +comme je l'aime parfaitement mon coeur m'a servi de muse: mais cette +tendresse toujours si delicieuse aux interesses ne peut plaire a ceux +qui ne le sont pas. Quand j'auri l'honneur de vous revoir, Madame, je +vous communiquerai mon recueil, et vous jugerez. Recevez les hommages +respectueux de mon mari, et daignezfaire agreér nos voeux a Mons. +Tiennerse; je n'ai point encore reçu les jolies poches, je pars demain +pour la campagne, et j'y resterai quinze jours; nous avons des chaleurs +cruelles, Messrs. les Anglois qui sont ici en souffrent beaucoup, j'ai +l'honneur d'etre avec le plus inviolable attachement, + + Madame, + Votre tres humble + et tres obeissante servante, + _De Courcelles Desjardins._ + 28 Juillet, 1776. + + +_Epitre au Grelot._ + + De la folie aimable lot + Don plus brillant que la richesse, + Et que je nommerai sagesse + Si je ne craignois le fagot, + C'est toi que je chante ô Grelot! + Hochet heureux de tous les ages + L'homme est à toi dès le maillot, + Mais dans tes nombreux appanages + Jamais tu ne comptas le sot: + De tes sons mitigés le sage + En tapinois se rejouït + Tandis que l'insensé jouït + Du plaisir de faire tapage. + Plus envié que dédaigné + Par cette espece atrabilaire + Qui pense qu'un air refrogné + La met au dessus du vulgaire, + La privation de tes bienfaits + Seule fait naître sa satyre; + Charmante idole du François + Chez lui réside ton empire: + Tes détracteurs font les pedans, + Les avares et les amans + De cette gloire destructive + Qui peuple l'infernale rive, + Et remplit l'univers d'excès. + L'ambitieux dans son délire + N'eprouve que de noirs accès, + Le genre-humain seroit en paix, + Si les conquérans savoient rire. + Contre ce principe évident + C'est en vain qu'un censeur declame, + Le mal ne se fait en riant. + Si de toi provient l'epigrame, + Son tour heureux ne'est que plaisant + Et ne nuit jamais qu'au méchant + Que sa conscience décèle. + Nomme t-on la rose cruelle + Lorsqu'un mal-adroit la cueillant + Se blesse lui-même au tranchant + De l'epine qu'avec prudence + Nature fit pour sa défense. + Tes simples et faciles jeux + Prolongent dit-on notre enfance + Censeur, que te faut-il de mieux! + Des abus, le plus dangereux, + Le plus voisin de la démence + Est de donner trop d'importance + A ces chiméres dont les cieux + Ont composé notre existence + Notre devoir est d'être heureux + A moins de frais, à moins de voeux + De l'homme est toute la science. + Par tes sons toujours enchanteurs + Tu fais fuir la froide vieillesse + Ou plutôt la couvrant de fleurs + Tu lui rends l'air de la jeunesse. + Du temps tu trompes la lenteur, + Par toi chaque heure est une fête + _Démocrite_ fut ton Docteur + _Anacréon_ fut ton Prophête; + Tous deux pour sages reconnus, + L'un riant des humains abus + Te fit sonner dans sa retraite + L'autre chantant à la guingette + Te donna pour pomme à _Venus_ + Après eux ma simple musette + T'offre ses accens ingénus + Charmant Grelot, sur ta clochette + Je veux moduler tous mes vers, + Sois toujours la douce amusette + Source de mes plaisirs divers + Heureux qui te garde en cachette + Et se passe l'univers. + + +_Le Printems._ + +Epitre à Mons. D---- + + + Déjà dans la plaine + On ressent l'haleine + Du léger Zephir; + Déja la nature + Sourit au plaisir, + La jeune verdure + A l'eclat du jour + Oppose la teinte + Que cherit l'amour + Fuyant la contrainte, + Au pied des ormeaux; + Ma muse naïve + Reprend ses pipeaux; + Sur la verte rive + Aux tendres echos + Elle dit ces mots. + + Volupté sure + Bien sans pareil! + O doux réveil + De la nature! + Que l'ame pure + Dans nos guérets + Avec yvresse + Voit tes attraits; + De la tendresse + Et de la paix + Les doux bienfaits + Sur toute espéce + Vont s'epandant, + Et sont l'aimant + Dont la magie + Enchaîne et lie + Tout l'univers + L'homme pervers + Dans sa malice + Ferme son coeur + A ces delices, + Et de l'erreur + Des goûts factices + Fait son bonheur + La noire envie + Fille d'orgueil, + Chaque furie + Jusqu'au circueil, + Tisse sa vie. + Les vains désirs + Les vrais plaisirs + Sont antipodes; + A ces pagodes + Culte se rend, + L'oeil s'y méprend + Et perd de vuë + Felicité, + La Déité + La plus couruë + La moins connuë + Simple réduit + Et solitaire + Jadis construit + Par le mystére + Est aujourd'hui + Sa residencei + La bienveillance. + Au front serein + De la déesse + Est la Prêtresse; + Les ris badins + Sont sacristains, + Joyeux fidelles, + De fleurs nouvelles + Offrent les dons. + Tendres chansons + Tribut du Zele, + Jointes au sons + De Philoméle, + De son autel + Sont le rituel + Dans son empire + Telle est la loi, + "Aimer et rire + De bonne foy." + Cet Evangile + Peu difficile + Du vrai bonheur + Seroit auteur + Si pour apôtre + Il vous avoit; + En vain tout autre + Le prêcheroit. + La colonie + Du double mont + Du vraie génie + Vous a fait don, + Sans nul caprice + Entrez en lice, + Et de Passif + Venant actif + Pour la Déesse + Enchanteresse + Qui dans ces lieux + Nous rend heureux + Donnez moi rose + Nouvelle éclose: + Du doux Printems + Hâtez le tems + Il etincelle + En vos écrits, + Qu'il renouvelle + Mes Esprits. + Adieu beau Sire, + Pour ce délire + Le sentiment + Est mon excuse. + S'il vous amuse + Un seul moment, + Et vous rapelle + Un coeur fidelle + Depuis cent ans, + Comme le vôtre + En tous les tems + N'ai désir autre. + + + + +FABLE + + +_Les Aquilons et l'Oranger._ + + De fougeux Aquilons une troupe emportée + Contre un noble Oranger éxhaloit ses fureurs + Ils soufflerent en vain, leur rage mutinée + De l'arbre aux fruits dorés n'ôta que quelques fleurs. + + +MADRIGAL + + Du tumulte, du bruit, des vaines passions + Fuyons l'eclat trompeur: à leurs impressions + Préférons les douceurs de ce sejour paisible, + Disoit un jour _Ariste_ à la tendre _Délos_. + Soit, repart celle-ci; mais las! ce doux repos + N'est que le pis-aller d'une ame trop sensible. + + +QUATRAIN + + Telle que ce ruisseau qui promene son onde + Dans des lieux ecartés loin du bruit et du monde + Je veux pour peu d'amis éxister desormais + C'est loin des faux plaisirs que l'on trouve les vrais. + + +REVERIE SUR UNE LECTURE. + + Aux froids climats de l'ourse, et dans ceux du midi, + L'homme toujours le même est vain, foible, et crédule, + Sa devise est partout _Sottise et Ridicule_. + Le célébre Chinois, le François étourdi + De la raison encore n'ont que le crepuscule + Jadis au seul hazard donnant tout jugement, + Par les effets cuisans du fer rougi qui brule + On croyoit discerner le foible et l'innocent; + A Siam aujourd'hui pareille erreur circule, + Et l'on voit même esprit sous une autre formule: + Quand quelque fait obscur tient le juge en suspens + On fait aux yeux de tous à chaque contendant + D'Esculape avaler purgative pillule, + Celui dont l'estomac répugne à pareil mets + Est réputé coupable et paye tous les frais. + Du pauvre genre-humain telles sont les annales: + Rome porta le deuil de l'honneur des vestales, + Du Saint Pere à présent, elle baise l'ergot: + Plus gais, non plus sensés dans ce siécle falot + Nous choisissons au moins l'erreur la plus jolie: + De l'inquisition, le bal, la comédie + Remplacent parmi nous le terrible fagot; + Notre légéreté détruit la barbarie + Mais nous n'avons encore que changé de folie. + + +ENVOI A MON MARI. + + Tandis, mon cher, que tes travaux + Me procurent ce doux repos. + Et cette heureuse insouciance + But incertain de l'opulence; + Mon ame l'abeille imitant + Aux pays d'esprit élancée + Cueille les fleurs de la pensée + Et les remet aux sentiment. + Mais helas! dans ce vaste champ + En vain je cherche la sagesse, + Près de moi certain Dieu fripon + Me fait quitter l'école de _Zenon_ + Pour le charme de la tendresse; + "L'homme est crée pour être bon + Et non savant, dit il, qu'il aime, + Du bonheur c'est le vrai systême" + Je sens, ma foi, qu'il a raison. + + + + +DESCRIPTION + +_De la terre dans laquelle j'habitois, adressée à un homme très +respectable que j'appellois mon Papa._ + + +Que vous êtes aimable, mon cher Papa, de me demander une description de +ma solitude. Votre imagination est gênée de ne pouvoir se la peindre. +Vous voulez faire de _Courcelles_ une seconde étoile du matin, et y lier +avec moi un de ces commerces d'ames réservés aux favoris de Brama. Votre +idée ne me perdra plus de vue, j'en ferai mon génie tutélaire. Je +croirai à chaque instant sentir sa présence, ah! elle ne peut trop tôt +arriver, montrons lui donc le chemin. + + Quittant votre cité Rhémoise, + Ville si fertil en bons Vins, + En gras moutons, en bons humains, + Après huit fois trois mille toises + Toujours suivant le grand chemin, + On découvre enfin le village + Où se trouve notre hermitage. + Là rien aux yeux du voyageur + Ne presente objet de surprise, + Petit ruisseau, des maisons, une Eglise + Tout à côté la hutte du Pasteur; + Car ces Messieurs pour quelques Patenôtres. + Pour un surplis, pour un vêtement noir + En ce monde un peu plus qu'en l'autre + Ont droit près du bon dieu d'établir leur manoir. + +Ce début n'est pas fort seduisant; aussi ne vous ai-je rien promis de +merveilleux. Je pourrois cependant pour embellir ma narration me perdre +dans de brillantes descriptions, et commencer par celle de notre +clocher; mais malheureusement nous n'en avons point; car je ne crois pas +que l'on puisse appeller de ce nom l'endroit presque souterrain où +logent trois mauvaises cloches. Elles m'étourdissent par fois au point +que sans leur baptême, je les enverrois aux enfers sonner les diners de +_Pluton_ et de _Proserpine_. + +On apperçoit près de l'Eglise, entre elle et le curé, une petite fenêtre +grillée, ceci est une vraie curiosité; c'est un sépulcre bâti par +_Saladin d'Anglure_, ancien Seigneur de _Courcelles_ il vivoit du tems +des croisades, et donna comme les autres dans la manie du siécle. Il ne +fut pas plus heureux que ses confreres. Son sort fut d'être prisonnier +du vaillant Saladin dont il conserva le surnom. Sa captivité l'ennuyant, +il fit voeu, si elle finissoit bientôt, de bàtir dans sa Seigneurie un +sépulcre, et un calvaire à même distance l'un de l'autre qu'ils le sont +à Jérusalum. C'est aussi ce qu'il fit. + + Quand par une aventure heureuse, + Des fers du Vaillant _Saladin_ + Il revint chez lui sauf et sain; + Mais la chronique scandaleuse + Qui daube toujours le prochain, + Et ne se repâit que de blame + Pretend que trop tôt pour Madame, + Et trop tard pour le Pelerin + Dans son Châtel il s'en revint. + Ce fut, dit on, le lendemain, + La veille, ou le jour que la Dame, + Croyant son mari très benin + Parti pour la gloire éternelle + Venoit de contracter une hymenée nouvelle. + +La tradition étoit en balance sur ces trois dates; mais la malignité +humaine a donné la préférence à la derniére, ensorte qu'il paroit trés +sur que l'Epoux n'arriva que le lendemain. + + Quel affront pour un chef couronné de lauriers! + Tel est pourtant le sort des plus fameux guerriers; + Ceux d'aujourd'hui n'en font que rire + Mais ceux du tems passé mettoient la chose au pis, + Ils n'avoient pas l'esprit de dire + Nous sommes quitte, et bons amis. + +Pendant que vous êtes en train de visiter nos antiquités courcelloises, +il me prend envie de vous faire entrer dans notre réduit. + + Quoique du titre de château, + Pompeusement on le decore, + Ne vous figurez pas qu'il soit vaste ni beau. + Tel que ces Grands que l'on honore + Pour les vertus de leurs ayeux + Pour tout mérite il n'a comme eux + Qu'un nom qui se conserve encore. + +Ainsi pour vous en former une juste idée, ne cherchez votre modéle ni +dans les romans, ni dans les miracles de féerie. Ce n'est pas même un +vieux château fort, comme il en éxiste encore quelques uns dàns nos +entours. + + Point, on n'y voit fossé ni bastion + Ni demi-lune ni Dongeon, + Ni beaux dehors de structure nouvelle, + Mais bien une antique Tourelle + Flanquant d'assez, vieux bâtimens + Dont elle est l'unique ornement. + +Un Poëte de nos cantons a dit assez plaisamment en parlant de ceci. + + Sur les bords de la Vesle est un château charmant + N'allez pas chicaner, Lecteur impertinent) + (Le bâtiment à part, la Dame qui l'habite + Par ses rares vertus en fait tout le mérite. + Vous verrez tout-à l'heure s'il avoit raison. + +Je ne m'arrêterai point à vous peindre la ferme quoi qu'elle tienne au +château, ni l'attirail des animaux de toute espèce qu'elle renferme. + + Ces spectacles vraiment rustiques + Offrent pourtant plus de plaisirs + A des regards philosophiques, + Que ce que l'art et les desirs + De notre insatiable espèce + Inventent tous les jours aidés par la mollesse. + +Je vous ferai entrer tout de suite dans une grande cour de gazon où +effectivement je voudrois bien vous voir. Deux manieses de Perrons y +conduisent, l'un aux appartemens, l'autre à la cuisine. Commençons par +ce dernier quoique ce ne soit pas trop la coutume. + + Là chaque jour, tant bien que mal, + On apprete deux fois un repas très frugal, + Mais que l'appétit assaisonne. + Loin, bien loin, ces bruyans festins, + Toujours suivis des médecins + Où le poison dans cent ragoûts foisonne + Nous aimons mieux peu de mets bien choisis + De la Santé, moins de plats, plus de ris. + +Voilà notre devise, mon cher Papa, je crois qu'elle est aussi la vôtre; +notre réz de chaussée consiste en cuisine, office, salle à manger, +chambre et cabinets, rien de tout cela n'est ni élegant ni commode. + + Nos devanciers fort bonnes gens + N'entendoient rien aux ornemens + Et leurs désirs ne passoient guére + Les bornes du seul necessaire. + +Ils étoient plus heureux et plus sages que nous, car la vraie sagesse +n'est autre chose que la modération des desirs. D'après cette +definition on pourroit, je crois, loger tout notre siécle aux petites +maisons. Ce qu'il y a de plus agréable dans la notre est la vuë du grand +chemin. + + De ce chemin où chacun trotte + Où nous voyons soirs et matins + Passer toute espece d'humains; + Tantôt la gent portant calote, + Et tantôt de jeunes plumets, + Les rusés disciples d'Ignace + Puis ceux de la grace efficace, + Des piétons, des cabriolets + Tant d'Etres à deux pieds, sots, et colifichets, + Enfin cent sortes d'équipages + Et mille sortes de visages. + +Ce tableau mouvant est par fois fort récréatif, il me paroit assez +plaisant d'y juger les gens sur la mine, et de deviner leur motif, et le +sujet de leurs courses. + + Mais, Papa, qu'il est consolant + Voyant leurs soins et leur inquiétude + De jouir du repos constant + Qu'on goute dans la solitude. + +A dire vrai, le spectacle du grand chemin, est celui qui m'occupe le +moins; j'aime mille fois mieux nos promenades champêtres; avant de yous +y conduire, il faut en historien fidelle vous rendre compte de notre +chaumiére. + +Vous croyez peut-être trouver un premier étage au dessus de la façade +dont je vous ai parlé? Point du tout. Ne vous ai-je pas dit que nos +péres préferoient l'utile à l'agréable: aussi ont ils mieux aimé +construire de grands greniers que de jolis appartemens; mais en revanche +ils out jetté quantité de petites mansardes sur un autre côté du logis. +Ce dernier donne sur un verger qui fait mes délices, il est précédé d'un +petit parterre, et finit par un bois charmant. + + Une onde toujours claire et pure + Y vient accorder souo murmure + Au son mélodieux de mille et mille oiseaux + Que cachent en tous tems nos jeunes arbrisseaux. + +C'est là que votre fille se plait à rêver à vous, mon cher Papa, c'est +dans ce réduit agréable qu'elle s'occupe tour à tour de morale et de +tendresse. + + +_Epictete, Pope, Zénon._ + + Et _Socrate_, et surtout l'ingenieux _Platon_, + Viennent dans ces lieux solitaires + Me prêter le secours de leurs doctes lumiéres: + Mais plus souvent la soeur de l'enfant de Cypris + Ecartant sans respect cette foule de sages + + Occupe seule mes esprits + En y gravant de mes amis + Les trop séduisantes images. + +Je n'entreprendrai pas de vous peindre nos autres promenades, elles sont +toutes charmantes; un paysage coupé, quantité de petits bosquets, mille +jolis chemins, nous procurent naturellement des beautés auxquelles l'art +ne sauroit atteindre. + + La Vesle borde nos prairies + Sur sa rive toujours fleurie + Regne un doux air de bergerie + Dangereux pour les tendres coeurs. + Là, qui se sent l'ame attendrie + S'il craint de l'amour les erreurs + Doit vite quitter la partie. + +Quittons la donc, mon cher Papa; aussi bien ai-je seulement oublié de +vous montrer la plus piéce de l'hermitage. C'est un canal superbe. Il a +cent vingt toises de long sur douze de large, une eau courante et +crystalline en rend la surface toujours brillante, cest la digne embléme +d'un coeur ami, jugez si cette vuë me fait penser à vous. + +De grands potagers terminent l'enclos de la maison. Si j'étois méchante +je continuerois ma description, et ne vous ferois pas grace d'une +laitue, mais je me contenteraide vous dire que le ciel fit sans doute ce +canton pour des Etres broutans. Si les Israëlites en eussent mangé +jadis, ils n'auroient ni regretté l'Egypte ni desiré la terre promise. + +Voilà mon cher Papa une assez mauvaize esquisse du pays Courcellois. + + L'air m'en seroit plus doux et le ciel plus serein + Si quelque jour, moins intraitable + Et se laissant flechir, le farouche Destin + Y conduisoit ce _trio_ tant aimable + Que j'aime, et chérirai sans fin + Mais las! j'y perds tout mon latin, + Et ce que de mieux je puis faire + Est d'espérer et de me taire + + * * * * * + +I should have stopt here, and finished my present correspondence with +you by leaving your mind harmonized with the above sweet stanzas of +_Madame des Jardins_, but that it may seem strange, to give a specimen +of one French Lady's literary talents, without acknowledging, that this +kingdom abounds with many, of infinite merit.--While England can boast +only of about half a dozen women, who will immortalize their names by +their works, France can produce half an hundred, admired throughout +Europe, for their wit, genius, and elegant compositions.--Were I to +recite the names and writings only of female authors of eminence, which +France has produced, since the time of the first, and most unfortunate +_Heloise_, who died in 1079, down to _Madame Riccoboni_, now living, it +would fill a volume. We have, however, a CARTER, and a BARBAULD, not +less celebrated for their learning and genius than for their private +virtues; and I think it may, with more truth be said of women, than of +men, that the more knowledge, the more virtue; the more understanding, +the less courage. Why then is the _plume elevated to the head_? and what +must the present mode of female education and manners end in, but in +more ignorance, dissipation, debauchery and luxury? and, at length, in +national ruin. Thus it was at ROME, the mistress of the world; they +became fond of the most vicious men, and such as meant to enslave them, +who corrupted their hearts, by humouring and gratifying their follies, +and encouraging, on all sides, idleness and dissolute manners, blinded +by CÆSAR's complaisance; from his _almsmen_, they became his _bondmen_; +he charmed them in order to enslave them. When the tragedy of _Tereus_ +was acted at ROME, _Cicero_ observed, what plaudits the audience gave +with their hands at some severe strokes in it against tyranny; but he +very justly lamented, that they employed their hands, _only in the +Theatre_, not in defending that liberty which they seemed so fond of. + + + + +And now, as BAYES says, "let's have a Dance." ---- + + + + +GENERAL HINTS + +TO + +STRANGERS + +WHO + +TRAVEL IN FRANCE. + + + + +GENERAL HINTS, &c. + + +I. + +If you travel post, when you approach the town, or bourg where you +intend to lie, ask the post-boy, which house he recommends as the best? +and never go to that, if there is any other.--Be previously informed +what other inns there are in the same place. If you go according to the +post-boy's recommendation, the aubergiste gives him two or three livres, +which he makes you pay the next morning. I know but one auberge between +_Marseilles_ and _Paris_, where this is not a constant practice, and +that is at _Vermanton_, five leagues from _Auxerre_, where every English +traveller will find a decent landlord, _Monsieur Brunier_, _a St. +Nicolas_; good entertainment, and no imposition, and consequently an +inn where no post-boy will drive, if he can avoid it. + + +II. + +If you take your own horses, they must be provided with head-pieces, and +halters; the French stables never furnish any such things; and your +servant must take care that the _Garçon d'Ecurie_ does not buckle them +so tight, that the horses cannot take a full bite, this being a common +practice, to save hay. + + +III. + +If the _Garçon d'Ecurie_ does not bring the halters properly rolled up, +when he puts your horses to, he ought to have nothing given him, because +they are so constantly accustomed to do it, that they cannot forget it, +_but in hopes you may too_. + + +IV. + +Direct your servant, not only to see your horses watered, and corn given +them, but to _stand by_ while they eat it: this is often necessary in +England, and always in France. + + +V. + +If you eat at the _table d'Hote_, the price is fixed, and you cannot be +imposed upon. If you eat in your own chamber, and order your own dinner +or supper, it is as necessary to make a previous bargain with your host +for it, as it would be to bargain with an itinerant Jew for a gold +watch; the _conscience_ and _honour_ of a _French Aubergiste_, and a +travelling Jew, are always to be considered alike; and it is very +remarkable, that the publicans in France, are the only people who +receive strangers with a cool indifference! and where this indifference +is most shewn, there is most reason to be cautious. + + +VI. + +Be careful that your sheets are well aired, otherwise you will find them +often, not only damp, but perfectly wet.--Frenchmen in general do not +consider wet or damp sheets dangerous, I am sure French _Aubergistes_ +do not. + + +VII. + +Young men who travel into France with a view of gaining the language, +should always eat at the _table d'Hote_.--There is generally at these +tables, an officer, or a priest, and though there may be none but people +of a middling degree, they will shew every kind of attention and +preference to a stranger. + + +VIII. + +It is necessary to carry your own pillows with you; in some inns they +have them; but in villages, _bourgs_, &c. none are to be had. + + +IX. + +In the wine provinces, at all the _table d'Hotes_, they always provide +the common wine, as we do small beer; wine is never paid for separately, +unless it is of a quality above the _vin du Pays_; and when you call +for better, know the price _before_ you drink it. + + +X. + +When fine cambrick handkerchiefs, &c. are given to be washed, take care +they are not trimmed round two inches narrower, to make borders to +_Madame la Blanchisseuse's_ night caps: this is a little _douceur_ which +they think themselves entitled to, from my Lord _Anglois_, whom they are +sure is _tres riche_, and consequently ought to be plundered by the +poor. + + +XI. + +Whenever you want honest information, get it from a French officer, or a +priest, provided they are on the _wrong_ side of forty; but in general, +avoid all acquaintance with either, on the _right_ side of thirty. + + +XII. + +Where you propose to stay any time, be very cautious with whom you make +an acquaintance, as there are always a number of officious forward +Frenchmen, and English adventurers, ready to offer you their services, +from whom you will find it very difficult to disengage yourself, after +you have found more agreeable company.--Frenchmen of real fashion, are +very circumspect, and will not _fall in love with you_ at first sight; +but a designing knave will exercise every species of flattery, in order +to fix himself upon you for his dinner, or what else he can get, and +will be with you before you are up, and after you are in bed. + + +XIII. + +Wherever there is any cabinet of curiosities, medals, pictures, &c. to +be seen, never make any scruple to send a card, desiring permission to +view them; the request is flattering to a Frenchman, and you will never +be refused; and besides this you will in all probability thereby gain a +valuable acquaintance.--It is generally men of sense and philosophy, who +make such collections, and you will find the collector of them, +perhaps, the most pleasing part of the cabinet. + + +XIV. + +Take it as a maxim, unalterable as the laws of the Medes and Persians, +that whenever you are invited to a supper at _Paris_, _Lyons_, or any of +the great cities, where a _little_ trifling play commences before +supper, that GREAT PLAY is intended after supper; and that you are the +marked pigeon to be plucked. Always remember _Lord Chesterfield's_ +advice to his son: "If you play with men, know with _whom_ you play; if +with women, for _what_:" and don't think yourself the more secure, +because you see at the same table some of your own countrymen, though +they are Lords or Ladies; a _London_ gambler would have no chance in a +_Parisian_ party. + + +XV. + +Dress is an essential and most important consideration with every body +in France. A Frenchman never appears till his hair is well combed and +powdered, however slovenly he may be in other respects.--Not being able +to submit every day to this ceremony, the servant to a gentleman of +fashion at whose house I visited in _Marseilles_, having forgot my name +described me to his master, as the gentleman whose hair was _toujours +mal frise_.--Dress is a foolish thing, says _Lord Chesterfield_; yet it +is a foolish thing not to be well dressed. + + +XVI. + +You cannot dine, or visit after dinner, in an undress frock, or without +a bag to your hair; the hair _en queue_, or a little cape to your coat, +would be considered an unpardonable liberty. Military men have an +advantage above all others in point of dress, in France; a regimental or +military coat carries a man with a _bonne grace_ into all companies, +with or without a bag to his hair; it is of all others the properest +dress for a stranger in France, on many accounts. + + +XVII. + +In France it is not customary to drink to persons at table, nor to drink +wine after dinner: when the dessert is taken away, so is the wine;--an +excellent custom, and worthy of being observed by all nations. + + +XVIII. + +It is wrong to be led into any kind of conversation, but what is +absolutely necessary, with the common, or indeed the middling class of +people in France. They never fail availing themselves of the least +condescension in a stranger, to ask a number of impertinent questions, +and to conclude, you answer them civilly, that they are your +equals.--Sentiment and bashfulness are not to be met with, but among +people of rank in France: to be free and easy, is the etiquette of the +country; and some kinds of that free and easy manner, are highly +offensive to strangers, and particularly to a shy Englishman. + + +XIX. + +When well-bred people flatter strangers, they seldom direct their +flattery to the object they mean to compliment, but to one of their own +country:--As, what a _bonne grace_ the English have, says one to the +other, in a whisper loud enough to be heard by the whole company, who +all give a nod of consent; yet in their hearts they do not love the +English of all other nations, and therefore conclude, that the English +in their hearts do not love them. + + +XX. + +No gentleman, priest, or servant, male or female, ever gives any notice +by knocking before they enter the bed-chamber, or apartment of ladies or +gentlemen.--The post-man opens it, to bring your letters; the capuchin, +to ask alms; and the gentleman to make his visit. There is no privacy, +but by securing your door by a key or a bolt; and when any of the +middling class of people have got possession of your apartment, +particularly of a stranger, it is very difficult to get them out. + + +XXI. + +There is not on earth, perhaps, so curious and inquisitive a people as +the lower class of French: noise seems to be one of their greatest +delights. If a ragged boy does but beat a drum or sound a trumpet, he +brings all who hear it about him, with the utmost speed, and most +impatient curiosity.--As my monkey rode postillion, in a red jacket +laced with silver, I was obliged to make him dismount, when I passed +thro' a town of any size: the people gathered so rapidly about me at +_Moret_, three leagues from _Fontainbleau_, while I stopped only to buy +a loaf, that I verily believe every man, woman, and child, except the +sick and aged, were paying their respects to my little groom; all +infinitely delighted; for none offered the least degree of rudeness. + + +XXII. + +The French never give coffee, tea, or any refreshment, except upon +particular occasions, to their morning or evening visitors. + + +XXIII. + +When the weather is cold, the fire small, and a large company, some +young Frenchman shuts the whole circle from receiving any benefit from +it, by placing himself just before it, laying his sword genteely over +his left knee, and flattering himself, while all the company wish him at +the devil, that the ladies are admiring his legs: when he has gratified +his vanity, or is thoroughly warm, he sits down, or goes, and another +takes his place. I have seen this abominable ill-breeding kept up by a +set of _accomplished_ young fops for two hours together, in exceeding +cold weather. This custom has been transplanted lately into England. + + +XXIV. + +Jealousy is scarce known in France; by the time the first child is +born, an indifference generally takes place: the husband and wife have +their separate acquaintance, and pursue their separate _amusements_, +undisturbed by domestic squabbles: when they meet in the evening, it is +with perfect good humour, and in general, perfect good breeding.--When +an English wife plays truant, she soon becomes abandoned: it is not so +with the French; they preserve appearances and proper decorum, because +they are seldom attached to any particular man. While they are at their +toilet, they receive the visits of their male acquaintance, and he must +be a man of uncommon discernment, who finds out whom it is she prefers +at that time.--In the southern parts of France, the women are in general +very _free_ and _easy_ indeed. + + +XXV. + +It is seldom that virgins are seduced in France; the married women are +the objects of the men of gallantry. The seduction of a young girl is +punished with death; and when they fall, it is generally into the arms +of their confessor,--and that is seldom disclosed. Auricular confession +is big with many mischiefs, as well as much good. Where the penitent and +the confessor happen both to be young, he makes her confess not only all +her sins, but sinful thoughts, and then, I fear he knows more than his +prudence can absolve _decently_, and even when the confessor is old, the +penitent may not be out of danger. + + +XXVI. + +Never ask a Frenchman his age; no question whatever can be more +offensive to him, nor will he ever give you a direct, though he may a +civil answer.--_Lewis_ the XVth was always asking every man about him, +his age. A King may take that liberty, and even then, it always gives +pain.--_Lewis_ the XIVth said to _Comte de Grammont_, "_Je sais votre +age, l'Eveque de Senlis qui a 84 ans, m'a donne pour epoque, que vous +avez etudie ensemble dans la meme classe_." _Cet Eveque, Sire_, (replied +the _Comte,) n'accuse pas juste, car ni lui, ni moi n'avons jamais +Etudie_.--Before I knew how offensive this question was to a Frenchman, +I have had many equivocal answers,--such as, _O! mon dieu_, as old as +the town, or, I thank God, I am in good health, &c. + + +XXVII. + +A modern French author says, that the French language is not capable of +the _jeux de mots_. _Les jeux de mots_, are not, says he, in the genius +_de notre langue, qui est grave, de serieuse_. Perhaps it maybe so; but +the language, and the men, are then so different, that I thought quite +otherwise,--though the following beautiful specimen of the seriousness +of the language ought, in some measure; to justify his remark: + + Un seul est frappé, & tous sont delivrés, + Dieu frappe sons fils innocent, pour l'amour + Des hommes coupables, & pardonne aux hommes + Coupables, pour l'amour de son fils innocent. + + +XXVIII. + +All English women, as well as women of other nations, prefer France to +their own country; because in France there is much less restraint on +their actions, than there is, (should I not say, than there _was_?) in +England. All Englishmen, however, who have young and beautiful wives, +should, if they are not indifferent about their conduct, avoid a trip to +_Paris_, &c. tho' it be but for "_a six weeks tour_." She must be good +and wise too, if six weeks does not corrupt her mind and debauch her +morals, and that too by her own sex, which is infinitely the most +dangerous company. A French woman is as great an adept at laughing an +English-woman into all contempt of fidelity to her husband, as married +English-women are in general, in preparing them during their first +pregnancy, for the touch of a man-midwife,--and both from the same +motive; _i.e._ to do, as they have done, and bring all the sex upon a +level. + + +XXIX. + +The French will not allow their language to be so difficult to speak +properly, as the English language; and perhaps they are in the right; +for how often do we meet with Englishmen who speak French perfectly? how +seldom do we hear a Frenchman speak English without betraying his +country by his pronunciation? It is not so with the Spaniards; I +conversed with two Spaniards who were never twenty miles from +_Barcelona_, that spoke English perfectly well.--How, for instance, +shall a Frenchman who cannot pronounce the English, be able to +understand, (great as the difference is) what I mean when I say _the sun +is an hour high_? May he not equally suppose that I said _the sun is in +our eye_? + + +XXX. + +When you make an agreement with an _aubergiste_ where you intend to lie, +take care to include beds, rooms, &c. or he will charge separately for +these articles. + + +XXXI. + +After all, it must be confessed, that _Mons. Dessein's a l'Hotel +d'Angleterre_ at _Calais_, is not only the first inn strangers of +fashion generally go to, but that it is also the first and best inn in +France. _Dessein_ is the decoy-duck, and ought to have a salary from the +French government: he is always sure of a good one from the English. + + +XXXII. + +In frontier or garrison towns, where they have a right to examine your +baggage, a twenty-four _sols_ piece, and assuring the officer that you +are a gentleman, and not a merchant, will carry you through without +delay. + + +XXXIII. + +Those who travel post should, before they set out, put up in parcels the +money for the number of horses they use for one post, two posts, and a +post _et demi_, adding to each parcel, that which is intended to be +given to the driver, or drivers, who are intitled by the King's +ordinance to five _sols_ a post; and if they behave ill, they should be +given no more; when they are civil, ten or twelve _sols_ a post is +sufficient. If these packets are not prepared, and properly marked, the +traveller, especially if he is not well acquainted with the money, +cannot count it out while the horses are changing, from the number of +beggars which surround the carriage and who will take no denial. + + +XXXIV. + +People of rank and condition, either going to, or coming from the +continent, by writing to PETER FECTOR, Esq; at _Dover_, will find him a +man of property and character, on whom they may depend. + + +LASTLY, + +Valetudinarians, or men of a certain age, who travel into the southern +parts of France, Spain, or Italy, should never omit to wear either a +callico or fine flannel waistcoat under their shirts: strange as it may +seem to say so, this precaution is more necessary in the south of +France, than in England. In May last it was so hot at _Lyons_, on the +side of the streets the sun shone on, and so cold on the shady side, +that both were intolerable. The air is much more _vif_ and penetrating +in hot climates, than in cold. A dead dog, thrown into the streets of +Madrid at night, will not have a bit of flesh upon his bones after it +has been exposed to that keen air twenty-four hours. + +FINIS. + + + +[List of possible typos or transcriber changes:] + +Ltr. 34 para. 2: monnments [monuments?] + +Several inscriptions were blurred or missing in this source. Educated +guesses were made in a few cases. + +Ltr. 36: This is what was visible to the transcriber: + + L DOMIT. DOMITIANI + EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM. + D PECCO****A VALENTINA M + CO*****ENTISSIMA. + +Some characters blurred or missing. The full transcription was +entered from other sources. + +Some of this looks wrong--e.g. the third line should probably begin P F, +rather than PE--but it matches the text as printed. + +Ltr. 52 para. 2: Typo: that [than?] + +Ltr. 54 para. 3: Typo: hundry [hungry?] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND +PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)*** + + +******* This file should be named 16994-8.txt or 16994-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/9/9/16994 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume II (of 2)</p> +<p>Author: Philip Thicknesse</p> +<p>Release Date: November 4, 2005 [eBook #16994]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)***</p> +<p> </p> +<h4>E-text prepared by Robert Connal, Leonard Johnson,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (<a href="https://www.pgdp.net/">https://www.pgdp.net/</a>)<br /> + from page images generously made available by<br /> + the Bibliothèque nationale de France + (<a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/">http://gallica.bnf.fr/</a>)</h4> +<p> </p> +<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Project Gutenberg also has Volume I of this work. See + <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/16485"> + https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/16485</a><br /> + <br /> + Images of the original pages are available through the + Bibliothèque nationale de France. See + <a href="http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-102009"> + http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-102009</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<div class="toc"> +<p title="Generated; not in original book.">TABLE OF CONTENTS</p> +<ul class="off"> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXV">LETTER XXXV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXVI">LETTER XXXVI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXVII">LETTER XXXVII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXVIII">LETTER XXXVIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XXXIX">LETTER XXXIX.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XL">LETTER XL.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLI">LETTER XLI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLII">LETTER XLII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLIII">LETTER XLIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLIV">LETTER XLIV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLV">LETTER XLV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLVI">LETTER XLVI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLVII">LETTER XLVII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLVIII">LETTER XLVIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_XLIX">LETTER XLIX.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_L">LETTER L.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LI">LETTER LI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LII">LETTER LII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LIII">LETTER LIII.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LIV">LETTER LIV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LV">LETTER LV.</a></li> +<li><a href="#LETTER_LVI">LETTER LVI.</a></li> +<li><a href="#FABLE">FABLE</a></li> +<li><a href="#DESCRIPTION">DESCRIPTION</a></li> +<li><a href="#GENERAL_HINTS">GENERAL HINTS</a></li> +</ul> +</div> +<hr /> +<h1>A</h1> + +<h1>YEAR'S JOURNEY</h1> + +<h1>THROUGH</h1> + +<h1>FRANCE,</h1> + +<h1>AND</h1> + +<h1>PART OF SPAIN.</h1> + + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>PHILIP THICKNESSE.</h2> + + +<p class="center">VOLUME II</p> + + + +<p class="center">DUBLIN</p> + +<p class="center">Printed By J. Williams, (No. 21.) Skinner-Row.</p> + +<p class="center">M,DCC,LXXVII. +</p> + + +<hr /> +<h2>A</h2> + +<h2>JOURNEY, &c.</h2> + + +<h2>LETTER XXXIV.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Nismes</span></p> + +<p>SIR,</p> + +<p class="noindent">I am very certain that a man may travel +twice through Spain, and half through +France, before he sees a woman of so much +beauty, elegance, and breeding, as the mistress +of the house I lodge in near this city. +I was directed to the house, and recommended +to the lady, as a lodger; but both +were so fine, and superior in all respects to +any thing I had seen out of Paris, that I +began to suspect I had been imposed upon. +The lady who received me appeared to be +(it was candle-light) about eighteen, a +tall, elegant figure, a beautiful face, and an +address inferior to none: I concluded she +was the daughter, till she informed me, +that <i>Mons. Saigny</i>, her husband, was gone +to <i>Avignon</i>. What added, perhaps, to this +lady's beauty in my eyes, or rather ears, +was her misfortune,—she could not speak +louder than a gentle whisper. After seeing +her sumptuous apartments, I told her I +would not ask what her price was, but tell +her what I could afford only to give; and +observed, that as it was winter, and the +snow upon the ground, perhaps she had +better take my price than have none. She +instantly took me by the hand and said, +she had so much respect for the English +nation, that my price was her's; and with +a still softer whisper, and close to my ear, +said, I might come in as soon as I pleased—"<i>Quand +vous voudrez, Monsieur</i>," +said she. We accordingly took possession +of the finest apartments, and the best beds +I ever lay on. The next day, I saw a genteel +stripling about the house, in a white +suit of cloaths, dressed <i>en militaire</i>, and began +to suspect the virtue of my fair hostess, +not perceiving for some hours that it was +my hostess herself; in the afternoon she +made us a visit in this horrid dress,—(for +horrid she appeared in my eyes)—her +cloaths were white, with red cuffs and +scarlet <i>lappels</i>; and she held in her straddling +lap a large black muff, as big as a +porridge-pot. By this visit she lost all +that respect her superlative beauty had so +justly entitled her to, and I determined +she should visit me no more in man's apparel. +When I went into the town I mentioned +this circumstance, and there I learnt, +that the real wife of <i>Mons. Saigny</i> had +parted from him, and that the lady, my +hostess, was his mistress. The next day, +however, the master arrived; and after being +full and finely dressed, he made me a +visit, and proffers of every attention in his +power: he told me he had injured his fortune, +and that he was not rich; but that he +had served in the army, and was a gentleman: +he had been bred a protestant, but +had just embraced the true faith, in order +to qualify himself for an employment about +the court of the Pope's <i>Legate</i> at <i>Avignon</i>. +After many expressions of regard, he asked +me to dine with him the next day; +but I observed that as he was not rich, +and as I paid but a small rent in proportion +to his noble apartments, I begged to +be excused; but he pressed it so much, +that I was obliged to give him some <i>other +reasons</i>, which did not prove very pleasing +ones, to the lady below. This fine lady, +however, continued to sell us wood, wine, +vinegar, sallad, milk, and, in short, every +thing we wanted, at a very unreasonable +price. At length, my servant, who by agreement +made my soup in their kitchen, +said something rude to my landlord, who +complained to me, and seemed satisfied +with the reprimand I had given the man; +but upon a repetition of his rudeness, +<i>Mons. Saigny</i> so far forgot himself as to +speak equally rude to me: this occasioned +some warm words, and so much ungovernable +passion in him, that I was obliged +to tell him I must fetch down my +pistols; this he construed into a direct +challenge, and therefore retired to his apartments, +wrote a card, and sent it to me +while I was walking before the door with +a priest, his friend and visitor, and in sight +of the <i>little female captain his second</i>, and +all the servants of the house; on this card +was wrote, "<i>Sir, I accept your proposition</i>;" +and before I could even read it, he +followed his man, who brought it in the +true stile of a butler, rather than a butcher, +with a white napkin under his arm. You +may be sure, I was no more disposed to +fight than <i>Mons. Saigny</i>; indeed, I told +him I would not; but if any man attacked +me on my way to or from the town, where +I went every day, I would certainly defend +myself: and fortunately I never met +<i>Mons. Saigny</i> in the fortnight I staid after +in his house; for I could not bear to +leave a town where I had two or three very +agreeable acquaintance, and one (<i>Mons. +Seguier</i>) whose house was filled as full of +natural and artificial curiosities, as his head +is with learning and knowledge. Here too +I had an opportunity of often visiting the +Amphitheatre, <i>the Maison Carree</i>, (so Mons. +Seguier writes it) and the many remains +of Roman monuments so common in and +about <i>Nismes</i>. I measured some of the +stones under which I passed to make the +<i>tout au tour</i> of the Amphitheatre, they were +seventeen feet in length, and two in thickness; +and most of the stones on which the +spectators sat within the area, were twelve +feet long, two feet ten inches wide, and +one foot five inches deep; except only +those of the sixth row of seats from the +top, and they alone are one foot ten inches +deep; probably it was on that range the +people of the highest rank took their seats, +not only for the elevation, but the best situation +for sight and security; yet one of +these great stones cannot be considered +more, in comparison to the whole building, +than a single brick would be in the +construction of Hampton-Court Palace. +When I had the sole possession (and I had +it often) of this vast range of seats, where +emperors, empresses, Roman knights, and +matrons, have been so often seated, to see +men die wantonly by the hands of other +men, as well as beasts for their amusement, +I could not but with pleasure reflect, +how much human nature is softened since +that time; for notwithstanding the powerful +prevalency of custom and fashion, I +do not think the ladies of the present age +would <i>plume</i> their towering heads, and curl +their <i>borrowed</i> hair, with that glee, to see +men murdered by missive weapons, as to +die at their feet by deeper, tho' less visible +wounds. If, however, we have not those +cruel sports, we seem to be up with them +in prodigality, and to exceed them in luxury +and licentiousness; for in Rome, not +long before the final dissolution of the state, +the candidates for public employments, in +spite of the penal laws to restrain it, <i>bribed +openly</i>, and were chosen sometimes <i>by arms</i> +as well as money. In the senate, things +were conducted no better; decrees of great +consequence were made when very few +senators were present; the laws were violated +by private knaves, under the colour +of public necessity; till at length, <i>Cæsar</i> +seized the sovereign power, and tho' he +was slain, they omitted to recover their +liberty, forgetting that</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"A day, an hour, of virtuous Liberty</div> +<div class="i0">Is worth a whole eternity of bondage."</div> +<div class="i8"><i>Addison's</i> <span class="smcap">Cato</span>.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>I can almost think I read in the parallel, +which I fear will soon be drawn between +the rise and fall of the British and Roman +empire, something like this;—"Rome +had her <span class="smcap">Cicero</span>; Britain her <span class="smcap">Camden</span>: +Cicero, who had preserved Rome +from the conspiracy of <i>Catiline</i>, was +banished: <span class="smcap">Camden</span>, who would have +preserved Britain from a bloody civil +war, removed." The historian will +add, probably, that "those who brought +desolation upon their land, did not mean +that there should be no commonwealth, +but that right or wrong, they should +continue to controul it: they did not +mean to burn the capitol to ashes, but +to bear absolute sway in the capitol:—The +result was, however, that though +they did not mean to overthrow the +state, yet they risqued all, rather than +be overthrown themselves; and they rather +promoted the massacre of their fellow-citizens, +than a reconciliation and +union of parties,"—<span class="smcap">Thus fell Rome</span>—Take +heed, <span class="smcap">Britain</span>!</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXV" id="LETTER_XXXV"></a>LETTER XXXV.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Arles</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">I left <i>Nismes</i> reluctantly, having formed +there an agreeable and friendly intimacy +with Mr. <i>D'Oliere</i>, a young gentleman of +Switzerland; and an edifying, and entertaining +acquaintance, with Mons. <i>Seguier</i>. +I left too, the best and most sumptuous +lodgings I had seen in my whole tour; but +a desire to see <i>Arles</i>, <i>Aix</i>, and <i>Marseilles</i>, +&c. got the better of all. But I set out +too soon after the snow and rains, and I +found part of the road so bad, that I wonder +how my horse dragged us through so +much clay and dirt. When I gave you +some account of the antiquities of <i>Nismes</i>, +I did not expect to find <i>Arles</i> a town fraught +with ten times more matter and amusement +for an antiquarian; but I found it +not only a fine town now, but that it abounds +with an infinite number of monuments +which evince its having once been +an almost second Rome. There still remains +enough of the Amphitheatre to +convince the beholder what a noble edifice +it was, and to wonder why so little, +of so large and solid a building, remains. +The town is built on the banks of the +Rhone, over which, on a bridge of barges, +we entered it; but it is evident, that in +former days, the sea came quite up to it, +and that it was a haven for ships of burden; +but the sea has retired some leagues +from it, many ages since; beside an hundred +strong marks at <i>this</i> day of its having +been a sea-port formerly, the following +inscription found a century or two ago, in +the church of <i>St. Gabriel</i>, will clearly +confirm it:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i4">M. FRONTONI EVPOR</div> +<div class="i3">I<span class="smcap">iiii</span>IVIR AVG. COL. JVLIA.</div> +<div class="i1">AVG. AQVIS SEXTIIS NAVICVLAR.</div> +<div class="i1">MAR. AREL. CVRAT EJVSD. CORP.</div> +<div class="i0">PATRONA NAVTAR DRVENTICORVM.</div> +<div class="i4">ET VTRICVLARIORVM.</div> +<div class="i3">CORP. ERNAGINENSIUM.</div> +<div class="i5">JULIA NICE VXOR.</div> +<div class="i4">CONJVGI KARISSIMO.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Indeed there are many substantial reasons +to believe, that it was at this town <i>Julius +Cæsar</i> built the twelve gallies, which, +from the cutting of the wood to the time +they were employed on service, was but +thirty days.—That it was a very considerable +city in the time of the first Emperors, +is past all doubt. <i>Constantine</i> the Great +held his court, and resided at <i>Arles</i>, with +all his family; and the Empress <i>Faustina</i> +was delivered of a son here (<i>Constantine</i> +the younger) and it was long before so celebrated +for an annual fair held in the +month of August, that it was called <i>le +Noble Marche de Gaules</i>. And <i>Strabo</i>, in +his dedication of his book to the Emperor, +called it "<i>Galliarum Emporium +non Parvum</i>;" which is a proof that it was +celebrated for its rich commerce, &c. five +hundred years before it became under the +dominion of the Romans. But were I +capable of giving you a particular description +of all the monuments of antiquity +in and near this town, it would compose a +little book, instead of a sheet or two of +paper. I shall therefore only pick out a +few things which have afforded me the +most entertainment, and I hope may give +you a little; but I shall begin with mentioning +what must first give you concern, in +saying that in that part of the town called +<i>la Roquette</i>, I was shewn the place where +formerly stood an elevated Altar whereon, +three young citizens were sacrificed annually, +and who were fattened at the public +expence during a whole year, for the horrid +purpose! On the first of May their throats +were cut in the presence of a prodigious +multitude of people assembled from all +parts; among whom the blood of the victims +was thrown, as they imagined all their +sins were expiated by that barbarous sacrifice; +which horrid practice was put a stop +to by the first Bishop of <i>Arles</i>, <span class="smcap">St. Trophime</span>. +The Jews, who had formerly +a synagogue in <i>Arles</i>, were driven out in +the year 1493, when that and their celebrated +School were demolished. There +were found about an hundred after, among +the stones of those buildings some Hebrew +characters neatly cut, which were copied +and sent to the Rabbins of Avignon, to be +translated, and who explained them then +thus:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Chodesh: Elvl. Chamescheth, lamech, nav. Nislamv. +Bedikoth. Schradai.</p></div> + +<p>i.e. they say,</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"In the month of August five thousand and thirty—the +Visitation of God ceased."</p></div> + +<p>Perhaps the plague had visited them.—There +was also another Hebrew inscription, +which was on the tomb of a famous +Rabbin called Solomon, surnamed the +grandson of David.</p> + +<p>The Amphitheatre of <i>Arles</i> was of an +oval form, composed of three stages; each +stage containing sixty arches; the whole +was built of hewn stone of an immense size, +without mortar, and of a prodigious thickness: +the circumference above, exclusive +of the projection of the architecture, was +194 toises three feet, the frontispiece 17 +toises high and the area 71 toises long and +52 wide; the walls were 17 toises thick, +which were pierced round and round with +a gallery, for a convenience of passing in +and out of the seats, which would conveniently +contain 30,000 men, allowing +each person three feet in depth and two in +width; and yet, there remain at this day +only a few arches quite complete from +top to bottom, which are of themselves a +noble monument. Indeed one would be +inclined to think that it never had been +compleated, did we not know that the Romans +left nothing unfinished of that kind; +and read, that the Emperor <i>Gallus</i>gave +some superb spectacles in the Amphiteatre +of <i>Arles</i>, and that the same amusements +were continued by following Emperors. +Nothing can be a stronger proof than these +ruins, of the certain destruction and corruption +of all earthly things; for one would +think that the small parts which now remain +of this once mighty building would, +endure as long as the earth itself; but what +is very singular is, that this very Amphitheatre +was built upon the ruins of a more +mighty building, and perhaps one of a more +substantial structure. <i>Tempus edax rerum, +tuque invidiosa vetustas omnia destruis</i>. In +the street called <i>St. Claude</i>, stood a triumphal +arch which was called <i>L'Arche admirable</i>; +it is therefore natural to conclude, +that the town contained many others of +less beauty. There are also within the walls +large remains of the palace of <i>Constantine</i>. +A beautiful antique statue of <i>Venus</i> +was found here also, about an hundred and +twenty years ago.—That a <i>veritable</i> fine woman +should set all the beaux and <i>connoisseurs</i> +of a whole town in a flame, I do not much +wonder; but you will be surprized when I +tell you that this cold trunk of marble, (for +the arms were never found) put the whole +town of <i>Arles</i> together by the ears; one +<i>Sçavant</i> said it was the goddess <i>Diana</i>, +and wrote a book to prove it; another insisted +upon it, that it was the true image of +<i>Venus</i>; then starts up an Ecclesiastic, who +<i>you know has nothing to do with women</i>, and +he pronounced in dogmatical terms, it was +neither one nor the other; at length the +wiser magistrates of the town agreed to +send it as a present to their august monarch +Lewis the XIVth; and if you have +a mind to see an inanimate woman who +has made such a noise in the world, you +will find her at <i>Versailles</i>, without any +other notice taken of her or the quarrels +about her, than the following words written +(I think) upon her pedestal, <i>La Venus +d'Arles</i>. This ended the dispute, as I +must my letter.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXVI" id="LETTER_XXXVI"></a>LETTER XXXVI.</h2> + + +<p>I have not half done with <i>Arles</i>. The +more I saw and heard in this town, the +more I found was to be seen. The remains +of the Roman theatre here would of +itself be a sufficient proof that it was a +town of great riches and importance. +Among the refuse of this building they +found several large vases of baked earth, +which were open on one side, and which +were fixed properly near the seats of the +audience to receive and convey the sounds +of the instruments and voices of the actors +distinctly throughout the theatre, which +had forty-eight arches, eleven behind the +scenes of ten feet wide, three grand arches +of fourteen feet wide, and thirty-one of +twelve feet; the diameter was thirty-one +canes, and the circumference seventy-nine; +and from the infinite number of +beautiful pieces of sculpture, frizes, architraves, +pillars of granite, &c. which have +been dug up, it is very evident that this +theatre was a most magnificent building, +and perhaps would have stood firm to this +day, had not a Bishop of <i>Arles</i>, from a +principle of more piety than wisdom, stript +it of the finest ornaments and marble pillars, +to adorn the churches. Near the +theatre stood also the famous temple of +<i>Diana</i>; and, as the famous statue mentioned +in my former letter was found beneath +some noble marble pillars near that +spot, it is most likely <i>La Venus d'Arles</i> is +nevertheless the Goddess <i>Diana</i>.</p> + +<p>I never wish more for your company +than when I walk, (and I walk every day) +in the Elysian fields. The spot is beautiful, +the prospect far and near equally so: +in the middle of this ancient <i>Cimetiere</i> +stands a motly building, from the middle +of which however rises a cupola, which at +the first view informs you it is the work of +a Roman artist; and here you must, as it +were, thread the needle between an infinite +number of Pagan and Christian monuments, +lying thick upon the surface in the +utmost disorder and confusion, insomuch, +that one would think the Day of Judgment +was arrived and the dead were risen. +Neither <i>Stepney</i> church-yard, nor any one +in or near a great city, shew so many headstones +as this spot does stone coffins of an +immense size, hewn out of one piece; the +covers of most of which have been broken +or removed sufficiently to search for such +things as were usually buried with the +dead. Some of these monuments, and +some of the handsomest too, are still however +unviolated. It is very easy to distinguish +the Pagan from the Christian <ins class="correction" title="This should read 'monuments'.">monnments</ins>, +without opening them, as all the +former have the Roman letters DM (<i>Diis +Manibus</i>) cut upon them. It is situated, +according to their custom, near the high-way, +the water, and the marshes. You +know the ancients preferred such spots for +the interment of the dead.</p> + +<p>The tombs of <i>Ajax</i> and <i>Hector</i>, <span class="smcap">Homer</span> +says, were near the sea, as well as +other heroes of antiquity; for as they considered +man to be composed of earth and +water, his bones ought to be laid in one, +and near the other.</p> + +<p>I will now give you a few of the most +curious inscriptions; but first I will mention +a noble marble monument, moved +from this spot into the <i>Cimetiere</i> of the +great Hospital. This tomb is ornamented +with Cornucopiæ, <i>Pateræ</i>, &c. and in a +shield the following inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">CABILIAE D.F. APPRVLLAE FLAM</div> +<div class="i0">D DESIGNATAE COL. DEA. AUG. VOC. M</div> +<div class="i2">O. ANNOS XIIII, MENS II. DIES V.</div> +<div class="i2">MARITVS VXORI PIENTISSIMAE.</div> +<div class="i8"><span class="smcap">posuit</span>.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>This poor girl was not only too young +to die, but too young to marry, one would +think; I wish therefore her afflicted husband +had told us how many years he had +been married to a wife who died at the +age of fourteen, two months, and five +days. The cornucopiæ, I suppose, were +to signify that this virtuous wife, I was +going to say maid, was the source of all +his pleasure and happiness. The <i>Pateræ</i> +were vases destined to receive the blood of +the victims.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Supponunt alij cultros, tepidumque cruorem</div> +<div class="i0">Suscipiunt Pateris,—<i>Says the Poet</i>.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>On each side of the tomb are the symbols +of sacrifice. It is very evident from +the fine polish of this monument, that her +husband had obtained the Emperor's particular +leave to finish it highly.</p> + +<p>Rogum <i>ascia ne Polito</i> says the law of +the twelve tables.</p> + +<p>On another tomb, which is of common +stone, in the middle of a shield supported +by two Cupids, is the following inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">M IVNIO MESSIANO</div> +<div class="i0">——VTRICI. CORP. ARELAT.</div> +<div class="i0">D EIVS D. CORP. MAG. III. F M</div> +<div class="i2">QUI VIXIT ANN. XXVIII.</div> +<div class="i1">M. V. D. X. IVNIA VALERIA.</div> +<div class="i2">ALVMNO CLARISSIMO.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The first word of the second line is much +obliterated.</p> + + +<p>There are an infinite number of other +monuments with inscriptions; but those +above, and this below, will be sufficient +for me to convey to you, and you to my +friend at <i>Winchester</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2"><ins class="correction" title="See transcriber notes, end of document.">L DOMIT. DOMITIANI</ins></div> +<div class="i0">EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM.</div> +<div class="i0">D PECCOCEIA VALENTINA M</div> +<div class="i1">CONIUGI PIENTISSIMA.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Before I leave <i>Arles</i>, and I leave it reluctantly, +whatever you may do, I must +not omit to mention the principal monument, +and pride of it, at this day, i.e. +their Obelisque. I will not tell you where +nor when it was dug up; it is sufficient to +say, it was found here, that it is a single +piece of granite, sixty-one feet high, and +seven feet square below; yet it was elevated +in the Market-place, upon a modern +pedestal, which bears four fulsome complimentary +inscriptions to <i>Lewis</i> the XIV. +neither of which will I copy. In elevating +this monstrous single stone, the inhabitants +were very adroit: they set it upright +in a quarter of an hour, in the year +1676, just an hundred years ago, amidst +an infinite number of joyful spectators, +who are now all laid in their lowly graves; +for though it weighed more than two +thousand hundred weight, yet by the help +of capsterns, it was raised without any +difficulty. The great King <i>Harry</i> the +IVth had ordered the houses in the arena +of the Amphitheatre to be thrown down, +and this obelisk to be fixed in the center +of it; but his death, and <i>Lewis</i>'s vanity, +fixed it where it now stands; it has no +beauty however to boast of but its age and +size, for it bears neither polish, characters, +nor hieroglyphicks, but, as it seems to +have been an Egyptian monument, the +inhabitants of <i>Arles</i> have, like those people, +consecrated it below to their King, +and above to the sun: on the top is fixed +a globe of azure, sprinkled with <i>fleurs +de lis d'or</i>, and crowned with a radiant +sun, that is to say, as the sun was made +by GOD to enlighten the world, so <span class="smcap">Lewis +le Grand</span> was made to govern it.</p> + + +<p>I am sure now, you will excuse my +mentioning what is said of this great man +<i>below</i>; but speaking of light, I must not +omit to mention, that there are men of +veracity now living in this town, who affirm, +that they have seen, upon opening +some of the ancient monuments here, the +eternal lamps burning. The number of +testimonies we have of this kind puts the +matter past a doubt, that a flame has appeared +at the lip of these lamps when first +the tombs have been opened; one was +found, you know, on the <i>Appian</i> way, in +the tomb of <i>Cicero</i>'s daughter, which had +burnt more than seventeen centuries; another +at <i>Padua</i>, which had burnt eight hundred +years, and which was found hanging +between two little phials, one of gold, the +other of silver, which were both quite +full of liquor, extremely clear, as well as +many others; but as it is impossible to believe +that flame can exist, and not consume +that which feeds it, is it not more natural +to conclude that those lamps, phials, &c. +contained a species of phosphorus, which +became luminous upon the first opening of +the tombs and the sudden rushing in of +fresh air; and that the reverse of what +is generally supposed is the fact, that they +are not extinguished, but illuminated by +the fresh air they receive? I have seen several +of these lamps here and elsewhere, +most of which are of baked earth. It has +been said, that there is an oil to be extracted +from gold, which will not consume, +and that a wick of <i>asbestos</i> has burnt +many years in this oil, without consumption +to either. I have seen a book written +by a German Jesuit, to confirm this +fact; so there is authority for you, if not +conviction.</p> + + +<p>As I know your keen appetite after +antiquities, I will send you a few other +inscriptions, and leave you to make your +own comments; and <i>voila</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i3">D M</div> +<div class="i2">L. HOSTIL. TER.</div> +<div class="i4">SILVANI.</div> +<div class="i1">ANN. XXIIII. M. <span class="smcap">ii.</span> D.</div> +<div class="i0">XV MATER FIL PIJSSIMI</div> +<div class="i1">MISERA ET IN LVCIV.</div> +<div class="i1">AETERNALI BENIFICI.</div> +<div class="i2">O NOVERCAE.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The following inscription is cut upon +a marble column, which stands near the +Jesuits' church:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">SALVIS D.D.N.N. THEODOSIO, ET VALENTINIANO.</div> +<div class="i3">P.F.V. AC TRIVM. SEMPER AUG. XV.</div> +<div class="i3">CONS. VIR. INL. AUXILIARIS PRÆ.</div> +<div class="i3">PRÆT, GALLIA. DE ARELATE MA,</div> +<div class="i7">MILLIARIA PONI. S.</div> +<div class="i15">M.P.S.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>In the ancient church of <i>St. Honore</i>, +which stands in the center of all these +Heathen and Christian monuments, are to +be seen nine Bacchanalians of very ancient +workmanship; where also is the tomb of +<i>St. Honore</i>, employed as the altar of the +church; and beneath the church are catacombs, +where the first Christians retired +to prayer during the persecution by the +Emperors, and where is still to be seen +their altar and seven ancient sepulchres, of +beautiful marble, and exquisitely worked; +the first is the tomb of <i>St. Genet</i>; the second +of <i>St. Roland</i>, Archbishop of <i>Arles</i>; +the third of <i>St. Concord</i>, with an epitaph, +and two doves with olive branches in their +beaks, cut in bass relief, and underneath +are the two letters X and P; on this tomb +is the miraculous cross seen in the heavens +by <i>Constantine</i>, who is represented before +it on his knees; and on the cover of this +tomb are the heads of <i>Constantine</i>, <i>Faustina</i>, +and his son; and they say the Emperor +saw this miracle in the heaven from the +very <i>Cimetiere</i> in which this monument +stands, i.e. in the year 315; the fifth is +the tomb of <i>St. Dorothy</i>, Virgin and Martyr +of <i>Arles</i>; the sixth <i>St. Virgil</i>, and the +seventh <i>St. Hiliare</i>, (both Archbishops of +<i>Arles</i>,) who has borrowed a Pagan sepulchre, +for it is adorned with the principal +divinities of the ancients in bass relief.—It +seems odd to see on a Christian Bishop's +tomb <i>Venus</i>, and the three Destinies. The +people here say, that this tomb represents +human life, as the ancients believed that +each God contributed something towards +the being. Be that as it may, the tomb +is a very curious one, and much admired +by the <i>Connoisseurs</i>, for its excellent workmanship; +but what is more extraordinary +than all these, is, that this catacomb, standing +in the middle of the others, with its +cover well and closely fixed, has always +water in it, and often is quite full, +and nobody can tell (<i>but one of the priests +perhaps</i>) from what source it comes. There +is also in this church the tomb and a long +Latin Epitaph of <i>St. Trophime</i>, their first +Bishop; but the characters are very Gothic, +and the Cs are square, [Image: E E with no mid bar]; he +came here in the year 61, and preached +down that abominable practice of sacrificing +three young men annually. He +died in the year 61, at 72 years of age. +On the front of the Metropolitan church +of <i>Arles</i>, called <i>St. Trophime</i>, are the two +following lines, in Gothic characters, cut +above a thousand years:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Cernitur eximius vir Christi Discipulorum,</div> +<div class="i0">De Numero Trophimus, hic Septuaginta duorum.</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>This church was built in the year 625, +by <i>St. Virgil</i>, and is a curious piece of antiquity +within, and particularly without; +but I will not omit to give you one of its +singularities within; it is an ancient and +curious inscription in large Gothic letters, +near the organ:<br /><br /></p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="Gothic inscription in church, St Trophime."> +<tr><td>Terrarum Roma</td> <td>Gemina de luce majistrA.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ros Missus Semper</td> <td>Aderit: velut incola IoseP</td></tr> +<tr><td>Olim Contrito</td> <td>Letheo Contulit OrchO.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>To read this you will see you must take the +first letter of each verse: TRO, <i>Trophemus</i>; +GAL, <i>Galliæorum</i>; and APO, <i>Apostolus</i>. +The letter H, belonging to the +word <i>Joseph</i>, must be carried to the word +<i>Orcho</i>, and the P must stand by itself.</p> + +<p><i>Trophimus Galliarum Apostolus, ut ros +missus est, ex urbe Romæ rerum Dominæ +Gemina de luce, scilicet a Petro et Paulo, +Ecclesiæ luminaribus; Contrito orcho Letheo, +nempe statim post Christi Passionem qua Dæmonis +& orchi caput contrivit, semper animos +nostras nutriet, cibo illo, divinæ fidei quem +nobis contulit: ut alter Joseph qui olim +Ægypti populum same pereuntem liberavit.</i></p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXVII" id="LETTER_XXXVII"></a>LETTER XXXVII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Marseilles</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">Soon after we left the town of <i>Arles</i>, +on our way to <i>Aix</i>, and this city, we +entered upon a most extraordinary and extensive +plain; it is called the <i>Crau</i>, and is +a principal and singular domain, belonging +to and situated on the south side of that +city; it is ten leagues in diameter; on +which vast extent, scarce a tree, shrub, or +verdure is visible; the whole spot being +covered with flint stones of various sizes, +and of singular shapes. <i>Petrarch</i> says, as +<i>Strabo</i>, and others have said before him, +that those flint stones fell from Heaven +like hail, when <i>Hercules</i> was fighting there +against the giants, who, finding he was +likely to be overcome, invoked his father +<i>Jupiter</i>, who rained this hard shower of +flint stones upon his enemies, which is +confirmed by <i>Æschylus</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"Jupiter Alcidem quando respexit inormem,</div> +<div class="i0">Illachrymans, Ligures saxoso perpluit imbre."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>But as this account may not be quite +satisfactory to you, who I know love truth +more than fable, I am inclined to think +you will consider <i>Possidonius</i>'s manner of +accounting for it more feasible: He says, +that it was once a great lake, and having a +bed of gravel at the bottom, those pebble +stones, by a succession of ages, have grown +to the size they now appear; but whether +stones grow which lie upon the surface of +the earth and out of their proper strata, +I must leave you and other naturalists to +determine, without repeating to you what +<i>Aristotle</i>, and others, have said upon that +subject; and therefore, instead of telling +you either what they say, or I think, I will +tell you what I know, which is, that barren +as the <i>Crau</i> appears to be, it not only +feeds, but fattens an infinite number of +sheep and cattle, and produces such excellent +wine too in some parts of it, that it is +called <i>Vin de Crau</i>, by way of pre-eminence: +it has a poignant quality, is very +bright, and is much esteemed for its delicious +flavour. The herb which fattens +the sheep and feeds such quantities of cattle +is a little plant which grows between +and under the flint stones, which the sheep +and other animals turn up with their feet, +to come at the bite; beside which, there +grows a plant on this <i>Crau</i> that bears a +vermilion flower, from which the finest +scarlet dye is extracted; it is a little red +grain, about the size of pea, and is gathered +in the month of May; it has been +sold for a crown a pound formerly; and +a single crop has produced eleven thousand +weight. This berry is the harvest of +the poor, who are permitted to gather it +on a certain day, but not till the Lord of +the Manor gives notice by the sound of a +horn, according to an ancient custom and +privilege granted originally by King <span class="smcap">Rene</span>.—On +my way over it, I <i>gathered</i> only a +great number of large larks by the help +of my gun, though I did not forget my +<i>Montserrat</i> vow: It was a fine day, and +therefore I did not find it so tedious as it +must be in winter or bad weather; for if +any thing can be worse than sea, in bad +weather, it must be this vast plain, which +is neither land or sea, though not very +distant from the latter, and in all probability +was many ages since covered by the +ocean.</p> + +<p>The first town we came to after passing +this vast plain, I have forgot the name of; +but it had nothing but its antiquity and a +noble and immense old castle to recommend +it, except a transparent agate statue +of the Virgin in the church, as large as +the life, with a <i>tin crown</i> upon her head. +Neither the town nor the inhabitants had +any thing of the appearance of French +about them; every thing and every body +looked so wild, and the place was in such a +ruinous condition, that I could scarce believe +I was not among the Arabs in <i>Egypt</i>, +or the ruins of <i>Persepolis</i>. Without the +town, in a fine beautiful lawn stands a +most irregular high and rude rock, perpendicular +on all sides, and under one side +of it are ruins of a house, which I suppose +was inhabited by the first <i>Seigneur</i> in the +province. I looked in, and found the +ruins full of miserable inhabitants, I fancy +many families; but it exhibited such a +scene of woe, that I was glad to get out +again; and upon inquiry, I found it had +been in that state ever since it had been +used as an hospital during the last +plague.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXVIII" id="LETTER_XXXVIII"></a>LETTER XXXVIII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Marseilles</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">As the good and evil, which fall within +the line of a road, as well as a worldly +traveller, are by comparison, I need not +say what a heavenly country <i>France</i> (with +all its untoward circumstances) appeared +to us <i>after</i> having journeyed in <i>Spain</i>: +what would have put me out of temper +before, became now a consolation. <i>How +glad I should I have been, and how perfectly +content, had it been thus in Spain</i>, was always +uppermost, when things ran a little +cross in France.</p> + +<p>Travellers and strangers in France, in +a long journey perhaps, have no connection +with any people, but such who have +a design upon their purse. At every <i>Auberge</i> +some officious coxcomb lies in wait +to ensnare them, and under one pretence +or other, introduces himself; he will offer +to shew you the town; if you accept +it, you are saddled with an impertinent +visiter the whole time you stay; if you +refuse it, he is affronted; so let him; for +no gentleman ever does that without an +easy or natural introduction; and then, +if they are men of a certain age, their acquaintance +is agreeable and useful. An +under-bred Frenchman is the most offensive +civil thing in the world: a well-bred +Frenchman, quite the reverse.—Having +dined at the table of a person of fashion +at <i>Aix</i>, a pert priest, one the company, +asked me many questions relative +to the customs and manners of the English +nation; and among other things, I +explained to him the elegance in which +the tables of people of the first fashion +were served; and told him, that when +any one changed his dish, that his plate, +knife and fork, were changed also, and +that they were as perfectly bright and +clean as the day they came from the silver-smith's +shop. After a little pause, +and a significant sneer,—Pray Sir, (said +he) and do you not change your napkins +also? I was piqued a little, and told him +we did not, but that indeed I had made +a little mistake, which I would rectify, +which was, that though I had told him +the plate, knife, and fork, were so frequently +changed at genteel tables in England, +there was one exception to it; for +it sometimes happened that low under-bred +priests (especially on a Sunday) were +necessarily admitted to the tables of people +of fashion, and that the butler sometimes +left them to wipe their knife upon +their bread, as I had often seen <i>Lewis</i> the +Fifteenth do, even after eating fish with it.—As +it was on a Sunday I had met with +this fop of divinity, at a genteel table, I +thought I had been even with him, and I +believe he thought so too, for he asked +me no more questions; yet he assured me +at his going out, "<i>he had the honour to be +my most obedient humble servant</i>." This +over-strained civility, so unlike good-breeding, +puts me in mind of what was +said of poor Sir <span class="smcap">Wm. St. Q——n</span>, after +his death, by an arch wag at <i>Bath</i>: Sir +William, you know, was a polite old gentleman, +but had the manners and breeding +rather of the late, than the present age, +and though a man deservedly esteemed +for his many virtues, was by some thought +too ceremonious. Somebody at the round +table at <i>Morgan</i>'s Coffee-house happened +to say, alas! poor Sir William! he is gone; +but he was a good man, and is surely gone +to Heaven, and I can tell you what he +said when he first entered the holy gates! +the interrogation followed of course: +Why, said he, seeing a large concourse of +departed souls, and not a soul that he +knew, he bowed to the right and left, +said he begged pardon,—he feared he was +troublesome, and if so, he would instantly +retire.—So the Frenchman, when he says +he would cut himself in four pieces to +serve you, only means to be very civil, and +he will be so, if it does not put him to any +expence.</p> + +<p><i>Aix</i> is a well built city; the principal +street called the <i>Course</i>, is very long, very +broad, and shaded by stately trees; in the +middle of it are four or five fountains, +constantly running, one of which is of very +hot water, at which man and beast are +constantly drinking. The city abounds +with a great deal of good company, drawn +to it from all parts of Europe by the efficacy +of the waters, and to examine its +antiquities, for it has in and about it many +Greek as well as Roman monuments.</p> + +<p>Some part of the country between <i>Aix</i> +and this populous city is very beautiful, +but near the town scarce any vegetation +is seen; on all sides high hills and broken +rocks present themselves; and one wonders +how a city so large and so astonishingly +populous is supported. When I +first approached the entrance gate, it opened +a perspective view of the <i>Course</i>, a street +of great extent, where the heads of the +people were so thick together, that I concluded +it was a <span class="smcap">fair</span> day, and that the +whole country was collected together; +but I found it was every day the same. +I saw a prodigious quantity of game and +provisions of all kinds, not only in the +shops, but in the streets, and concluded +it was not only a cheap, but a plentiful +country; but I soon found my mistake, +it was the evening before Lent commenced, +and I could find no provisions of +any kind very easily afterwards, and every +thing very dear. You may imagine the +price of provisions at <i>Marseilles</i> when I +tell you that they have their poultry from +<i>Lyons</i>; it is however a noble city, crouded +with men of all nations, walking in the +streets in the proper habits of their country. +The harbour is the most secure sea-port +in Europe, being land-locked on all +sides, except at a verry narrow entrance; +and as there is very little rise or fall of +water, the vessels are always afloat. Many +of the galley slaves have little shops near +the spot where the galleys are moored, +and appear happy and decently dressed; +some of them are rich, and make annual +remittances to their friends. In the <i>Hotel +de Ville</i> are two fine large pictures, +which were taken lately from the Jesuits' +college; one represents the dreadful scenes +which were seen in the <i>Grand Course</i> during +the great plague at <i>Marseilles</i>; the other, +the same sad scene on the Quay, before the +doors of the house in which it now hangs. +A person cannot look upon these pictures +one minute before he becomes enthralled +in the woes which every way present +themselves. You see the good Bishop +confessing the sick, the carts carrying out +the dead, children sucking at the breasts +of their dead mothers, wives and husbands +bewailing, dead bodies lowering out of the +higher windows by cords, the slaves plundering, +the Priests exhorting, and such a +variety of interesting and afflicting scenes +so forcibly struck out by the painter, that +you seem to hear the groans, weepings, +and bewailings, from the dying, the sick +and the sound; and the eye and mind +have no other repose on these pictures but +by fixing it on a dead body. The painter, +who was upon the spot, has introduced his +own figure, but armed like a serjeant with +a halberd. The pictures are indeed dreadfully +fine; one is much larger than the other; +and it is said the town Magistrates +cut it to fit the place it is in; but it is impossible +to believe any body of men could +be guilty of such an act of <i>barbarism</i>! +There is still standing in this town, the +house of a Roman senator, now inhabited +by a shoe-maker. In the cathedral they +have a marble-stone, on which there is engraved, +in Arabic characters, a monumental +inscription to the following effect:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i1">"<span class="smcap">God</span> is alone permanent.</div> +<div class="i0">This is the Sepulchre of his servant and Martyr,</div> +<div class="i0">who having placed his confidence in the Most</div> +<div class="i0">High, he trusts that his sins will be forgiven."</div> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0"><span class="smcap">Joseph</span>, son of <span class="smcap">Abdallah</span>, of the town of <i>Metelin</i>,</div> +<div class="i7">died in the moon <i>Zilhage</i>.</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>I bought here an Egyptian household +<i>God</i>, or <i>Lar</i> of solid metal, which was +lately dug up near the city walls; it is about +nine inches high, and weighs about +five pounds. Several of the hieroglyphic +characters are visible on the breast and +back, and its form is that of an embalmed +mummy. By a wholesome law of this city, +the richest citizen must be buried like the +poorest, in a coffin of nine livres value, +and that coffin must be bought at the +general Hospital. The sale of these coffins +for the dead, goes a great way towards +the support of the poor and the sick.</p> + +<p>At this town I experienced the very reverse +in every respect of what I met with +at <i>Barcelona</i>, though I had no better recommendation +to Mr. <span class="smcap">Birbeck</span>, his Britannick +Majesty's Agent here, than I had +to the Consul of <i>Barcelona</i>; he took my +word, at first sight, nay, he took my notes +and gave me money for them, and shewed +me and my family many marks of friendly +attention: Such a man, at such a distance +from ones own country, is a cordial to a +troubled breast, and an acquisition to every +Englishman who goes there either for +health or curiosity. Mr. <i>Birbeck</i> took me +with him to a noble Concert, to which he +is an annual subscriber, and which was +performed in a room in every respect suitable +to so large a band, and so brilliant an +assembly: He and his good wife were the +only two British faces I had seen for many +months, who looked like Britons. I shall, +indeed I must, soon leave this town, and +shall take <i>Avignon</i> on my way to <i>Lyons</i>, +from whence you shall soon hear from me +again.</p> + +<p>I had forgot to mention, when I was +speaking of <i>Montpellier</i>, that the first gentry +are strongly impressed with the notion +of the superiority of the English, in +every part of philosophy, more especially +in the science of physic; and I found at +<i>Montpellier</i>, that these sentiments so favourable +to our countrymen, had been +much increased by the extraordinary knowledge +and abilities of Dr. <span class="smcap">Milman</span>, an +English physician, who resided there during +the winter 1775. This gentleman, +who is one of Doctor <span class="smcap">Radcliffe's</span> travelling +physicians, had performed several +very astonishing cures, in cases which the +French Physicians had long treated without +success: And indeed the French physicians, +however checked by interest or +envy, were obliged to acknowledge this +gentleman's uncommon sagacity in the +treatment of diseases. What I say of this +ingenious traveller, is for your sake more +than his; for I know nothing more of him +than the fame he has left behind him at +<i>Montpellier</i>, and which I doubt not will +soon be verified by his deeds among his +own countrymen.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXXIX" id="LETTER_XXXIX"></a>LETTER XXXIX.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Avignon.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">There is no dependence on what +travellers say of different towns and places +they have visited, and therefore you +must not lay too much stress upon what +I say. A Lady of fashion, who had travelled +all over France, gave the preference +to the town I wrote last to you from (<i>Marseilles</i>); +to me, the climate excepted, it is +of all others the most disagreeable; yet +that Lady did not mean to deceive; but +people often prefer the town for the sake +of the company they find, or some particular +or local circumstance that attended +their residence in it; in that respect, I too +left it reluctantly, having met with much +civility and some old friends there; but +surely, exclusive of its fine harbour, and +favourable situation for trade, it has little +else to recommend it, but riot, mob, and +confusion; provisions are very dear, and +not very good.</p> + +<p>On our road here we came again through +<i>Aix</i>. The <i>Mule blanche</i> without the town, +is better than any auberge within, and +Mons. <i>L'Abbe Abrard Prætor, de la ordre +de St. Malta</i>, is not only a very agreeable, +but a very convenient acquaintance +for a stranger, and who is always ready to +shew the English in particular, attention, +and who had much attention shewn him +by Lord A. <span class="smcap">Percy</span> and his Lady.</p> + +<p>From <i>Aix</i> we passed through <i>Lambresque</i>, +<i>Orgon</i>, and <i>Sencage</i>, a fine country, full of +almond trees, and which were in full blossom +on the 7th of March. At <i>Orgon</i> the +post-house was so bad, that after my horse +was in the stable, I was obliged to put him +to, and remove to the <i>Soleil d'Or</i>, without +the town, and made a good move too. +The situation of <i>Notre Dame de St. Piere</i>, +a convent on a high hill, is worthy of notice, +and the antiquity of the town also.—Five +leagues from <i>Orgon</i> we crossed a +very aukward passage in a ferry-boat, and +were landed in the Pope's territories, about +five miles from <i>Avignon</i>. The castle, and +higher part of the town, were visible, rising +up in the middle of a vast plain, fertile +and beautiful as possible. If we were +charmed with the distant view, we were +much more so upon a nearer approach; +nothing can be more pleasing than the +well-planted, and consequently well-shaded +coach and foot roads all round this pretty +little city; all shut in with the most beautiful +ancient fortification walls I ever beheld, +and all in perfect repair; nor were +we asked any questions by the Pope's soldiers, +or Custom-house Officers. I had a +letter to Dr. <span class="smcap">Power</span>, an English Physician +in this town, who received me with great +civity, and made me known to <span class="smcap">Lord +Mountgarret</span>, and Mr. <span class="smcap">Butler</span>, his +son, with whom I had the honour to spend +some very agreeable hours: his Lordship +has an excellent house here, and keeps a +table, truly characteristic of the hospitality +of his own country.—And now I cannot +help telling you of a singular disorder which +attacked me the very day I arrived; and +the still more singular manner I got well: +the day before I arrived, we had been almost +blown along the road to <i>Orgon</i> by a +most violent wind; but I did not perceive +that I had received any cold or injury from +it, till we arrived here, and then, I had +such an external soreness from head to +foot, that I almost dreaded to walk or stir, +and when I did, it was as slow as my feet +could move; after continuing so for some +days, I was much urged to dine with Lord +<span class="smcap">Mountgarret</span>, on St. Patrick's day; I +did so, and by drinking a little more than +ordinary, set nature to work, who, without +any other Doctor, did the business, by +two or three nights' copious sweats. I +would not have mentioned this circumstance, +but it may be the <i>mal du pais</i>, and +ought to be mentioned for the <i>method of +cure</i>.</p> + +<p>There was not quite so good an understanding +between the Pope's <i>Legate</i> and +the English residing here, as could be wished; +some untoward circumstance had happened, +and there seemed to be faults on +both sides; it was carried, I think, to such +a length, that when the English met him, +they did not pull off their hats; but as it +happened before I came, and as in our +walks and rides we often met him airing +in his coach, we paid that respect which is +everywhere due to a first magistrate, and +he took great pains to return it most graciously; +his livery, guards, &c. make a very +splendid appearance: he holds a court, and +is levee'd every Sunday, though not liked +by the French. At the church of St. <i>Didier</i>, +in a little chapel, of mean workmanship, +is the tomb of the celebrated <i>Laura</i>, +whose name <i>Petrarch</i> has rendered immortal; +the general opinion is, that she +died a virgin; but it appears by her tomb, +that she was the wife of <i>Hugues de Sade</i>, +and that she had many children. About +two hundred years after her death, some +curious people got permission to open her +tomb, in which they found a little box, +containing some verses written by <i>Petrarch</i>, +and a medallion of lead, on one side of +which was a Lady's head and on the reverse, +the four following letters, M.L.M.E.</p> + +<p><i>Francis</i> the First, passing thro' <i>Avignon</i>, +visited this tomb, and left upon it the following +epitaph, of his own composition:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"En petit lien compris vous pouvez voir</div> +<div class="i0">Ce qui comprend beaucoup par renommèe</div> +<div class="i0">Plume, labour le langue & le devoir</div> +<div class="i0">Furent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aimée</div> +<div class="i0">O gentille ame, etant tant estimée</div> +<div class="i0">Qui le pourra louer quen se laissant?</div> +<div class="i0">Car la parole est toujours reprimée</div> +<div class="i0">Quand le sujet surmonte le disant."</div> +</div></div> + +<p>This town is crowded with convents +and churches. The convent of the <i>Celestines</i>, +founded by <i>Charles</i> the VIth, is richly +endowed, and has noble gardens: there +are not above fourteen or fifteen members, +and their revenue is near two thousand +pounds sterling a year. In their church +is a very superb monument of Pope <i>Clement</i> +the VIIth, who died here in the year +1394, as a long Latin inscription upon it +announces. They shew in this house a +picture, painted by King <i>Renee</i>; it represents +the frightful remains of his beloved +mistress, whose body he took out of the +grave, and painted it in the state he then +found it, i.e. with the worms crawling about +it: it is a hideous figure, and hideously +painted; the stone coffin stands on a +line with the figure, but is above a foot +too short for the body; and on the other +side is a long scrole of verses, written in +Gothic characters, which begin thus:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">"<i>Une fois fus sur toutes femmes belle</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>Mais par la mort suis devenue telle</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>Machair estoit tres-belle fraische & tendre</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>O'r est elle toute tournee en cendre.</i>"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>There follow at least forty other such lines.</p> + +<p>There is also in this convent, a fine monument, +on which stands the effigies of <i>St. +Benezet</i>, a shepherd of <i>Avignon</i>, who built +(they say) the bridge from the town over +the Rhone, in consequence of a dream, in +the year 1127: some of the noble arches +are still standing, and part of a very pretty +chapel on it, nearly in the middle of the +river; but a great part of the bridge has +been carried away, many years since, by +the violence of the river, which often not +only overflows its banks, but the lower +part of the town. In 1755, it rose seventeen +feet higher than its usual flowing, and +I saw marks in many of the streets, high +above my head, against the sides of houses, +which it had risen to; but with all my industry, +I could find no <i>mark upon the house +where Lady Mary Wortley Montagu dwelt</i>, +though she resided some time here, and +though I endeavoured to find it.</p> + +<p>I need not describe the celebrated fountain +of <i>Vaucluse</i>, near this town, where +<i>Petrarque</i> composed his works, and established +Mount Parnassus. This is the only +part of France in which there is an Inquisition, +but the Officers seem content with +their profits and honours, without the +power.</p> + +<p>One part of the town is allotted to the +Jews, where about six or seven hundred +live peaceably and have their synagogue; +and it was here the famous rabbin <i>Joseph +Meir</i> was born; he died in the year 1554; +he was author, you know, of <i>Annals des +Rois de France</i>, and <i>de la Maison Ottomane</i>.</p> + +<p>Not far from <i>Avignon</i>, on the banks of +the same rapid river, stands <i>Beaucaire</i>, famous +for its annual <span class="smcap">fair</span>, where merchandize +is brought from all parts of Europe, +free of all duties: it begins on the +22d of July; and it is computed that eight +million of livres are annually expended +there in eight days. <i>Avignon</i> is remarkable +for the No. Seven, having seven ports, +seven parishes, seven colleges, seven hospitals, +and seven monasteries; and I may +add, I think, seven hundred bells, which +are always making a horrid jingle, for they +have no idea of ringing bells harmoniously +in any part of France.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XL" id="LETTER_XL"></a>LETTER XL.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">After a month's residence at <i>Avignon</i>, +where I waited till the weather +and roads amongst the high <i>Dauphine</i> +mountains were both improved, I sat out +for this city. I had, you know, outward +bound, dropt down to <i>Port St. Esprit</i> by +water, so it was a new scene to us by land, +and I assure you it was a fine one; the vast +and extensive rich vales, adorned on all +sides with such romantic mountains, could +not be otherwise, in such a climate. Our +first stage was only four leagues to <i>Orange</i>; +this is the last town in the Pope's territories; +and within a quarter of a mile of it +stands, in a corn field, a beautiful Roman +triumphal arch, so great in <i>ruins</i>, that it +would be an ornament even in Rome. The +<i>Palais Royal</i> at this town, has nothing to +recommend it, but that it affords a prospect +of this rich morsel of antiquity.</p> + +<p>From <i>Orange</i> we passed through <i>Pierlaite, +Donzeir</i>, and several smaller towns, +and we lay one night at a single house, +but an excellent auberge, called <i>Souce</i>, +kept by an understanding sensible host.</p> + +<p>At a little village called <i>A'tang</i>, on the +banks of the Rhone, we stopped a day or +two, to enjoy the sweet situation. Just +opposite to it, on the other side of the river, +stands a large town, (<i>Tournau</i>,) which +added to the beauty of our village, over +which hangs a very high mountain, from +whence the best Hermitage wine is collected: +I suppose it is called <i>Hermitage</i>, +from a Hermit's cell on the top of it; but +so unlike the <i>Montserrat</i> Hermitages, that +I contented myself with only tasting the +Hermit's wine; it was so good indeed, +that though I did not see how it was possible +to get it safe to the north side of +France, I could not withstand the temptation +of buying a cask, for which I was to +pay twelve guineas, and did pay one as earnest, +to a very sensible, and I believe honest +and opulent wine merchant, who, however, +made me a present of two bottles when +I came away, almost worth my guinea; it +is three livres a bottle on the spot; and he +shewed me orders he had received from +men of fashion in England, for wine; among +which was one from Mr. <i>Ryder</i>, Sir +<i>Dudley Ryder</i>'s son I fancy, who, I found, +was well satisfied with his former dealings. +Do you know that Claret is greatly improved +by a mixture of Hermitage, and +that the best Claret we have in England +is generally so <i>adulterated</i>?</p> + +<p>The next towns we passed were <i>Pevige</i> +and <i>Vienne</i>, the latter only five leagues +from this city. It is a very ancient town, +and was formerly a Roman colony. The +cathedral is a large and noble Gothic +structure, and in it is a fine tomb of Cardinal +<i>Mountmoin</i>, said to be equal in workmanship +to <i>Richlieu</i>'s in the <i>Sorbonne</i>, but +said to be so, by people no ways qualified +to judge properly; it is indeed an expensive +but a miserable performance, when +put in competition with the works of <i>Girrardeau</i>. +About half a mile without the +town is a noble pyramidal Roman monument, +said to have stood in the center of +the Market-place, in the time of the Romans. +There is also to be seen in this +town, a Mosaic pavement discovered only +a few years since, wonderfully beautiful +indeed, and near ten feet square, though +not quite perfect, being broken in the +night by some malicious people, out of mere +wantonness, soon after it was discovered.</p> + +<p>At this town I was recommended to the +<i>Table Round</i>; but as there are two, the +<i>grande</i> and the <i>petit</i>, I must recommend +you to the <i>petit</i> where I was obliged to +move; for, of all the dreadful women I +ever came near, Madam <i>Rousillion</i> has the +<i>least mellifluous</i> notes; her ill behaviour, +however, procured me the honour of a +very agreeable acquaintance, the <i>Marquis +DeValan</i>, who made me ashamed, by shewing +us an attention we had no right to expect; +but this is one, among many other +agreeable circumstances, which attend +strangers travelling in France. French +gentlemen never see strangers ill treated, +without standing forth in their defence; +and I hope English gentlemen will follow +their example, because it is a piece of justice +due to strangers, in whatever country +they are, or whatever country they are +from; it is doing as one would be done by. +That prejudice which prevails in England, +even among some people of fashion, against +the French nation is illiberal, in the highest +degree; nay, it is more, it is a national +disgrace.—When I recollect with what +ease and uninterruption I have passed +through so many great and little towns, +and extensive provinces, without a symptom +of wanton rudeness being offered me, +I blush to think how a Frenchman, if he +made no better figure than I did, would +have been treated in a tour through Britain.—My +Monkey, with a pair of French +jack boots, and his hair <i>en queue</i>, rode +postillion upon my sturdy horse some hours +every day; such a sight, you may be sure, +brought forth old and young, sick and +lame, to look at him and his master. <i>Jocko</i> +put whole towns in motion, but never +brought any affront on his master; they +came to look and to laugh, but not to deride +or insult. The post-boys, it is true, +did not like to see their fraternity <i>taken +off</i>, in my <i>little Theatre</i>; but they seldom +discovered it, but by a grave salutation; +and sometimes a good humoured fellow +called him comrade, and made <i>Jocko</i> a +bow; they could not laugh at his bad seat, +for not one of them rode with more ease; +or had a handsomer laced jacket. Mr. +<i>Buffon</i> says, the Monkey or <i>Maggot</i>, (and +mine is the latter, for he has no tail) make +their grimace or chattering equally to shew +their anger or to make known their appetite. +With all due deference to this great +naturalist, I must beg leave to say, that his +observation is not quite just; there is as +much difference between the grimace of +my <i>Jocko</i>, when he is angry or hungry, +and when he grins to shew delight, as there +is in a man, when he gnashes his teeth in +wrath, or laughs from mirth.</p> + +<p>Between <i>Avignon</i> and this town I met a +dancing bear, mounted by a <i>Maggot</i>: as it +was upon the high road, I desired leave to +present <i>Jocko</i> to his grandfather, for so +he appeared both in age and size; the interview, +though they were both males, was +very affecting; never did a father receive a +long-lost child with more seeming affection +than the <i>old gentleman</i> did my <i>Jocko</i>; he +embraced him with every degree of tenderness +imaginable, while the <i>young gentleman</i> +(like other young gentlemen of the +present age) betrayed a perfect indifference. +In my conscience I believe it, there was +some consanguinity between them, or the +reception would have proved more mutual. +Between you and me, I fear, were I +to return to England, I might find myself +a sad party in such an interview. It is a sad +reflection; but perhaps Providence may +wisely ordain such things, in order as men +grow older, to wean them from the objects +of their worldly affections, that they +may resign more readily to the decree of +fate. That good man, Dr. <span class="smcap">Arbuthnot</span>, +did not seem to dread the approach of +death on his own account, so much as +from the grievous affliction <span class="smcap">he</span> had reason +to fear it would bring upon his children +and family.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLI" id="LETTER_XLI"></a>LETTER XLI.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons</span>,</p> + +<p class="blockquot" style="text-indent:-2em;"><i>The Harangue of the</i> Emperor <span class="smcap">Claudius</span>, +<i>in the</i> <span class="smcap">Senate</span>. <i>Copied from the original +Bronze plate in the Hotel de Ville, of</i> +Lyons.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">First Table.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Mœrerum . nostr</span> ::::: <span class="smcap"> sii </span> ::::::::: +Equidem · primam · omnium · illam · cogitationem · +hominum · quam · maxime · primam · +occursuram · mihi · provideo · deprecor · ne · +quasi · novam · istam · rem · introduci · exhorrescatis · +sed · illa · potius · cogitetis · quam · multa · +in · hac · civitate · novata · sint · et · quidem · +statim · ab · origine · vrbis · nostræ · in · quod · +formas · statusque · res · P · nostra · diducta · sit.</p> + +<p>Quandam · reges · hanc · tenuere · vrbem · nec +tamen · domesticis · successoribus · eam · tradere · +contigit · supervenere · alieni · et · quidam · +externi · vt · Numa · Romulo · successerit · ex. +Sabinis · veniens · vicinus · quidem · se · tunc.</p> + +<p>Sed · tunc · externus · ut · Anco · Marcio · Priscus · +Tarquinius · propter · temeratum · sanguinem · +quod · Patre · Demaratho · Corinthio · +natus · erat · et · Tarquiniensi · Matre · generoso · +sed · inopi · ut · quæ · tali · marito · necesse · habuerit · +succumbere · cum · domi · repelleretur. A · +gerendis · honoribus · postquam · Roman · migravit · +regnum · adeptus · est · huic · quoque · et · +filio · nepotive · ejus · nam · et · hoc · inter · auctores · +discrepat · insertus · Servius · Tullius · si · +nostros · sequimur · captiva · natus · ocresia · si · +tuscos · cœli · quandam · vivennæ · sodalis · fidelissimus · +omnisque · ejus · casus · comes · post · +quam · varia · fortuna · exactus · cum · omnibus · +reliquis. cæliani · exercitus · Etruria · excepit · +mentem · cælium · occupavit · et · a · duce · suo · +cælio · ita · appellitatus · mutatoque · nomine · +nam · Tusce · mostrana · ei · nomen · erat · ita · appellatus · +est · ut · dixi · et · regnum · summa · cum · +rei · p · utilitate · optinuit · deinde · postquam · +Tarquini · superbi · mores · invisi · civitati · nostræ · +esse · cœperunt · qua · ipsius · qua · filiorum · +ejus · nempe · pertæsum · est · mentes · regni · et · +ad·consules.</p> + +<p>Annuos · magistratus · administratio · rei · p · +translata · est · quid · nunc · commemorem · dictatu · +valentius · repertum · apud · majores · +nostros · quo · in · asperioribus · bellis · aut · in · civili · +motu · difficiliore · uterentur · aut · in · auxilium · +plebis · creatos · tribunos · plebei · quid · a · +latum · imperium · solutoque · postea · Decemvirali · +regno · ad · consules · rursus · reditum · +quid · indecoris · distributum · consulare · imperium · +tribunosque · militum · consulari · imperio · +appellatos · qui · seni · et · sæpe · octoni · +crearentur · quid · communicatos · postremo · +cum · plebe · honores · non · imperi · solum · sed · +sacerdotiorum · quoque · jam · si · narrem · bella +p · quibus · cœperint · majores · nostri · et · quo · +processerimus · vereor · ne · nimio · insolentior · +esse · videar · et · quæsisse · jactationem · gloria · +prolati · imperi · ultra · oceanum · sed · illoc · potius · +revertor · civitatem.</p> + + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Second Table.</span></p> + +<p class="noindent">:::::::::::::::::: SANE +::: NOVO :: DIVVS :: AUG ::: LVS. +et · Patruus · Ti · Cæsar · omnem · florem · ubisque · +coloniarum · ac · municipiorum · bonorum · +scilicet · virorum · et · locupletium · in · hac +curia · esse · voluit · quid · ergo · non · Italicus · senator · +Provinciali · potior · est · jam · vobis · cum · +hanc · partem · censuræ · meæ · ad · probare · cœpero · +quid · de · ea · re · sentiam · rebus · ostendam · +sed · ne · provinciales · quidem · si · modo · +ornare · curiam · poterint · rejiciendos · puto.</p> + +<p>Ornatissimæ · ecce · colonia · volentissimaque +Viennensium · quam · longo · jam · tempore · senatores · +huic · curiæ · confert · ex · qua · colonia · +inter · paucas · equestris · ordinis · ornamentum +L · vestinum · familiarissime · diligo · et · hodieque · +in · rebus · meis · detineo · cujus · liberi · tiorum · +gradu · post · modo · cum · annis · promoturi · +dignitatis · suæ · incrementa · ut · dirum · nomen · +latronis · taceam · et · odi · illud · palæstricum · +prodigium · quod · ante · in · domum · consulatum · +intulit · quam · colonia · sua · solidum +civitatis · Romanæ · beneficium · consecuta · est +idem · de · patre · ejus · possum · dicere · miserabili · +quidem · invtilis · senator · esse · non · possit +tempus · est · jam · ri · <span class="smcap">Cæsar</span> · Germanice · detegere · +te · patribus · conscriptis · quo · tendat · oratio · +tua · jam · enim · ad · extremos · fines · Galliæ · +Narbonensis · venisti.</p> + +<p>Tot · ecce · insignes · juvenes · quot · intuetor · +non · magis · sunt · pœnitendi · senatores · quam · +ænitet · Persicum · nobilissimum · virum · amicum · +meum · inter · imagines · majorum · suorum · +Allobrogici · nomen · legere · quod · <span class="smcap">sl</span> · +hæc · ita · esse · consentitis · quid · ultra · desideratis · +quam · ut · vobis · digito · demonstrem · solum · +ipsum · ultra · fines · provinciæ · Narbonensis · +jam · vobis · senatores · mittere · quando · ex · +Luguduno · habere · nos · nostri · ordinis · viros · +non · pœnitet · timide · quidem · P · C · vobis · provinciarum · +terminos · sum · sed · destricte · jam · +comatæ · Galliæ · causa · argenda · est · in · qua. si. +quis · hoc · intuetur · quod · bello · per · decem · +anno · exercuerunt · divom · Julium · diem · opponat · +centum · armorum · immobilem · fidem · +obsequiumque · multis · trepidis · rebus · nostris · +plusquam · expertum · illi · patri · meo · druso · +Germaniam · subi · genti · tutam · quiete · sua · +securamque · a · tergo · pacem · præstiterunt · et · +quidem · cum · <span class="smcap">ad</span> · census · novo · tum · opere · et +in · adsueto · gallis · ad · bellum · avocatus · esset · +quod · opus · quam · arduum · sit · nobis · nunc · +maxime · quam · vis · nihil · ultra · quam · ut · publice · +notæ · sint · facultates · nostræ · exquiratur · +nimis · magno · experimento · cognoscimus.</p> + +<p>The above harangue, made by <span class="smcap">Claudius</span>, +in favor of the <span class="smcap">Lyonoise</span>, and +which he pronounced in the Senate, is the +only remains of the works of this Emperor, +though he composed many. <i>Suetonius</i> +says he composed forty-three books of a history, +and left eight compleat of his own +life; and adds, that he wrote more elegantly +than judiciously.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLII" id="LETTER_XLII"></a>LETTER XLII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">I have now spent a month in my second +visit to this great and flourishing city, and +fortunately took lodgings in a <i>Hotel</i>, where +I found the lady and sister of <i>Mons. Le +Marquis De Valan</i>, whose politeness to us I +mentioned in a former letter at <i>Vienne</i>, +and by whose favour I have had an opportunity +of seeing more, and being better +informed, than I could have been without +so respectable an acquaintance. At +<i>Vienne</i> I only knew his rank, here I became +acquainted with his good character, +and fortune, which is very considerable in +<i>Dauphine</i>, where he has two or three fine +seats. His Lady came to <i>Lyons</i> to lye-in, +attended by the Marquis's sister, a <i>Chanoinesse</i>, +a most agreeable sensible woman, +of a certain age; but the Countess is +young and beautiful.</p> + +<p>You may imagine that, after what I said +of <i>Lyons</i>, on my way <i>to</i> Spain, I did not +associate much with my own country-folks. +On my return, indeed, my principal amusement +was to see as much as I could, in a +town where so much is to be seen; and in +relating to you what I have seen, I will begin +with the <i>Hotel De Ville</i>; if it had not +that name, I should have called it a Palace, +for there are few palaces so large or so noble; +on the first entrance of which, in the +vestibule, you see, fixed in the wall, a large +plate of Bronze, bearing stronger marks of +fire than of age; on which were engraven, +seventeen hundred years ago, two harangues +made by the Emperor <i>Claudius</i> in +the senate, in favour of the <i>Lyonoise</i>, and +which are not only legible at this day, but +all the letters are sharp and well executed; +the plate indeed is broke quite through +the middle, but fortunately the fraction +runs between the first and second harangues, +so as to have done but little injury among the +the letters. As I do not know whether +you ever saw a copy of it, I inclose it to +you, and desire you will send it as an agreeable +exercise, to be well translated by +my friend at Oxford.</p> + +<p>On the other side of the vestibule is a +noble stair-case, on which is well painted +the destruction of the city, by so dreadful +a fire in the time of the Romans, that <i>Seneca</i>, +who gives an account of it in a letter to +his friend, says,</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"<i>Una nox fuit inter urbem maximam et +nullum.</i>"</p> + +<p>i.e. One night only intervened between +a great city and nothing.</p></div> + +<p>There is something awful in this scene, +to see on one side of the stair-case the conflagration +well executed; on the other, +strong marks of the very fire which burnt +so many ages ago; for there can be no +doubt, but that the Bronze plate then +stood in the <i>Roman Hotel de Ville</i>, and was +burnt down with it, because it was dug up +among the refuse of the old city on the +mountain called <i>Fourvire</i>, on the other +side of the river, where the original city +was built.—In cutting the letters on this +large plate of Bronze, they have, to gain +room, made no distance between the words, +but shewn the division only by a little +touch thus < with the graver; and where +a word eroded with a C, or G, they have +put the touch within the concavity of the +letter, otherwise it is admirably well executed.</p> + +<p>Upon entering into the long gallery above +stairs, you are shewn the late King +and Queen's pictures at full length, surrounded +with the heads of some hundred +citizens; and in one corner of the room +an ancient altar, the <i>Taurabolium</i>, dug up +in 1704, near the same place where <i>Claudius's</i> +harangue was found; it is of common +stone, well executed, about four feet +high, and one foot and a half square; on +the front of it is the bull's head, in demi +relief, adorned with a garland of corn; +on the right side is the <i>victimary</i> knife<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">A</a> of +a very singular form; and on the left the +head of a ram, adorned as the bull's; near +the point of the knife are the following +words, <i>cujus factum est</i>; the top of the altar +is hollowed out into the form of a +shallow bason, in which, I suppose, incense +was burnt and part of the victims.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">A</span></a> The knife, which is cut in demi relief, on the +<i>Taurobolium</i>, is crooked upon the back, exactly in the +same manner, and form, as may be seen on some of +the medals of the Kings of Macedonia.</p></div></div> + +<p>The Latin inscription under the bull's +head, is very well cut, and very legible, +by which it appears, that by the express +order of <span class="smcap">Cybele</span>, the reputed mother of +the Gods, for the honour and health of +the Emperor <i>Antoninus Pius</i>, father of his +country, and for the preservation of his children, +children, <i>Lucius Æmilius Carpus</i><a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">B</a> received +the horns of the bull, by the ministration +of <i>Quintus Samius Secundus</i>, transported +them to the Vatican, and consecrated, at +his own expence, this altar and the head +of the bull<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">C</a>; but I will send the inscription, +and a model<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4" class="fnanchor">D</a> of the altar, as soon as +I can have it made, as I find here a very +ingenious sculptor and modeller; who, to +my great serprize, says no one has hitherto +been taken from it. And here let me +observe, lest I forget it, to say, that <i>Augustus</i> +lived three years in this city.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">B</span></a> <i>Lucius Æmilius Carpus</i> was a Priest, and a man +of great riches: he was of the quality of <i>Sacrovir</i>, +and probably one of the six Priests of the temple of +Angustus.—<i>Sextumvir Augustalii</i>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">C</span></a> Several inscriptions of this kind have been +found both in Italy and Spain, but by far the greater +number among the Gauls; and as the sacrifices +to the Goddess Cybele were some of the least ancient +of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which +were suppressed on the establishment of Christianity. +Since we find one of the Taurobolian +inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of +the Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of +the Heathen writers on this head is very wonderful; +for the only one who makes any mention of them +is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation +on the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, +in his elaborate account of the Taurobolium, has +remarked. +</p><p> +The ceremony of the consecration of the High +Priest of Cybele, which many learned men have +mistaken for the consecration of the Roman Pontifex +Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest +infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed +to that of the Emperor himself. +</p><p> +The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, +wore the same vestments without washing out +the bloody stains, as long as they would hold together. +</p><p> +By these rites and baptisms by blood, they +thought themselves, as it were re-born to a life eternal. +Sextilius Agefilaus Ædesius says, that he was +born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the Taurobolium +and Criobolium. +</p><p> +Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, +but also others, who were not of that order; in +particular cases the regenerations were only promised +for twenty years. +</p><p> +Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which +were erected at the expence of whole cities and provinces, +there were others also, which were founded +by the bounty of private people. We often meet +with the names of magistrates and priests of other +Gods, who were admitted into these mysteries, and +who erected Taurobolia as offerings for the safety of +the Emperor, or their own. The rites of the Taurobolia +lasted sometimes many days. +</p><p> +The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is +on the same side with the head of the bull, we have +endeavoured to explain by filling up the abbreviations +which are met with in the Roman character. +</p> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">taurobolio matris deum magnæ idææ</span></div> +<div class="i3"><span class="smcap">quod factum est ex imperio</span></div> +<div class="i6"><span class="smcap">matris idææ deum</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">pro salute imperatoris cæsaris</span></div> +<div class="i7"><span class="smcap">titi ælii</span></div> +<div class="i0"><span class="smcap">adriani antonini augusti pii patris patriæ</span></div> +<div class="i5"><span class="smcap">liberorumque ejus</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">et status coloniæ lugdunensis</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">lucius æmilius carpus sextumvir</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">augustalis item dendrophorus</span></div> +<div class="i3"><span class="smcap">vires excepit et a vaticano</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">transtulit aram et bucranium</span></div> +<div class="i4"><span class="smcap">suo impendio consecravit</span></div> +<div class="i7"><span class="smcap">sacerdote</span></div> +<div class="i0"><span class="smcap">quinto sammio secundo ab quindecemviris</span></div> +<div class="i3"><span class="smcap">occabo et corona exornato</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">cui sanctissimus ordo lugdunensis</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">perpetuitatem sacerdotis decrevit</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">appio annia atilo bradua tito</span></div> +<div class="i2"><span class="smcap">clodio vibio varo consulibus</span></div> +<div class="i1"><span class="smcap">locus datus dicreto decurionum.</span></div> +</div></div></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4"><span class="label">D</span></a> <i>The Model is now in the possession of the ingenious</i> +Dr. <span class="smcap">Harrington</span> <i>at Bath</i>.</p></div> +</div> + +<p>The <i>Taurobolium</i> was one of the great +mysteries, you know, of the Roman religion, +in the observance of which, I think, +they dug a large hole in the earth, and +covered it with planks, laid at certain distances, +so as to give light into the subterranean +temple. The person who was to +receive the <i>Taurobolio</i> then descended into +the theatre, and received on his head and +whole body, the smoaking hot blood of +the bull, which was there sacrificed for that +purpose. If a single bull was only sacrificed, +I think they call it a simple <i>Taurabolio</i>, +if a ram was added to it, as was +sometimes done, it was then called a <i>Torobolia</i>, +and <i>Criobolio</i>; sometimes too, I believe +a goat was also slain.</p> + +<p>After all the blood of the victim animals +was discharged, the Priests and Cybils +retired beneath the theatre, and he +who had received the bloody sacrifice, +came forth and exposed himself, besmeared +with blood, to the people, who all prostrated +themselves before him, with reverential +awe, as one who was thereby particularly +sanctified, and whose person ought +to be regarded with the highest veneration, +and looked upon with holy horror; nor did +this sanctification, I think, end with the +ceremony, but rendered the person of the +sanctified holy for twenty years. An inscription +cited by <i>Gruter</i>, seems to confirm +this matter, who, after speaking of +one <i>Nepius Egnatius Faventinus</i>, who lived +in the year of Christ 176, says,</p> + +<p><i>"Percepto Taurobolio Criobolioque feliciter,</i>"</p> + +<p>Concludes with these words,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0"><i>"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis,</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes.</i>"</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The <i>bis denus orbis</i> seems to imply, the +space of twice ten years.</p> + +<p>And here I cannot help making a little +comparison between the honours paid by +the Roman citizens to their Emperors, +and those of the present times to the Princes +of the Blood Royal. You must know +that the present King's brother, came to +<i>Lyons</i> in the year 1775, and thus it is recorded +in letters of gold upon their quay:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i4">LOUIS XVI. REGNANT.</div> +<div class="i0">EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ.</div> +<div class="i3">SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV.</div> +<div class="i9">OU</div> +<div class="i3">MONSIEUR FRERE DU ROI</div> +<div class="i6">ET MADAME</div> +<div class="i1">SONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLE</div> +<div class="i7">CE QUAI</div> +<div class="i2">DE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCE</div> +<div class="i0">ET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULAT</div> +<div class="i3">DU DOUZE DU MEME MOIS</div> +<div class="i2">A ETE NOMME A PERPETUITE</div> +<div class="i6">QUAI MONSIEUR.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>If the <i>Bourgeoise</i> of <i>Lyons</i>, however, are +not men of genius, they are ingenious +men, and they have a most delightful +country to dwell in. I think I may say, +that from the high hills which hang about +this city, and taking in the rivers, fertile +vales, rude rocks, vine-yards, and country +seats, far and near, that <i>Lyons</i> and its environs, +afford a greater variety of natural +and artificial beauties, than any spot in +Europe. It is, however, by no means a +place for the winter residence of a stranger. +Most of the natives advanced in years, were +carried off last winter. The surly winds +which come down the Rhone, with impetuous +blasts, are very disagreeable and +dangerous. I found the cold intolerable +in the beginning of May, out of the sunshine, +and the sun intolerable in it. In +England I never wore but one under waistcoat; +in Spain, and in the south of France, +I found two necessary. The Spaniards +wear long cloaks, and we laugh at them; +but the laugh would come more properly +from them. There is in those climates a +<i>vifness</i> in the air that penetrates through +and through; and I am sure that such who +travel to the southward for the recovery +of their health, ought to be ten times more +upon their guard, to be well secured against +the keen blasts the south of France, than +even against an easterly wind in England.</p> + +<p>The disorder which carried off so many +last winter at <i>Lyons</i>, was called the Gripe. +In a large hotel only one person escaped +it, an English Lady. They called it the +<i>Gripe</i>, from the fast hold it took of the +person it seized; nor did it let them go till +April.</p> + +<p>On my way here, I found it sometimes +extremely hot; it is now the first of May, +and I am shaking by the side of a good +fire, and have had one constantly every +day for this fortnight.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLIII" id="LETTER_XLIII"></a>LETTER XLIII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Lyons.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">The <i>Lyonoise</i> think their town was +particularly honoured by the <i>Taurobolium</i>; +but it was a common practice to offer that +sacrifice not only for the Emperor's health, +but for the preservation of a city. There +are two of these altars in the town of <i>Letoure</i>; +one consecrated for the preservation +of the Emperor <i>Gordian</i>, on which is the +following inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i3">PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL.</div> +<div class="i1">AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINÆ PROQVE STATV CIVIT.</div> +<div class="i0">LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANO</div> +<div class="i4">II ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS M</div> +<div class="i6">EROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>And in a little village near <i>Marseilles</i>, +called <i>Pennes</i>, there is a stone, on which +is engraven,</p> + +<p> +MATRI DEVM MAGNÆ IDEÆ +</p> + +<p>And on another, in the same town,</p> + +<p> +MATRI DEVM TAVROPOLIVM. +</p> + +<p>I must not omit to give you a copy of a +singular inscription on the tomb of a mint-master +which was found in <i>Lyons</i>, and is +preserved entire:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">NOBILIS TIB. CÆSARIUS AVG. SER ÆQ. MONET HIC</div> +<div class="i2">AD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ET</div> +<div class="i6">PERPETUA FILIA D.S.D.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The most ancient money which has been +found in and about this city, is the little +coin of <i>Mark Antony</i>; on one side of +which is represented the Triumvirate; on +the other, a Lion, with the word <i>Lugudani</i> +under it; on each side of the Lion are +the letters A and XL. The antiquarians +here think those letters marked the value +of the piece, and that it was about forty +<i>sous</i>; but is it not more probable, that this +was only the mint-master's touch?</p> + +<p>Nothing can be a stronger proof of the +importance of this city in the time of the +Romans, than the immense expence +they were at in erecting such a number of +grand aquæducts, one of which was eighteen +leagues in length; many parts of +them are still visible; and it appears that +they spent for the reparation of them at +<i>one</i> time, near one thousand talents; +and here it was that the four grand Roman +highways divided; one of which +went directly to the sea, and another to +the <i>Pyrenees</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Agrippa</i>, who was the constructor of +most of these noble monuments of Roman +grandeur, would not permit the <i>Lyonoise</i> to +erect any monument among them to his +memory; and yet, his memory is, in a very +particular manner, preserved to this day in +the very heart of the city, for in the front +of a house on the quay <i>de Villeroy</i>, is a medallion +of baked earth, which, I think, +perfectly resembles him; sure I am it is an +unquestionable antique; it is a little disfigured +indeed, and disgraced by his name +being written upon it in modern characters. +But there is another monument of +<i>Agrippa</i> here; it is part of the epitaph of +an officer or soldier of the third cohort, +whose duty it was to take an account of +the expence of each day for the subsistence +of the troops employed to work on +the high-ways, and this officer was called +<i>A. Rationibus Agrippæ</i>.</p> + +<p>There are an infinite number of Roman +inscriptions preserved at <i>Lyons</i>, among +which is the following singular one:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAM</div> +<div class="i2">TVAM RAPVERVNT.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>I have already told you of a modern +monument erected by the <i>Lyonoise</i>, and +now, with grief and concern, I must tell +you of an ancient one which they have +demolished! it was a most beautiful structure, +called the tomb of the Two Lovers; +that, however, was a mistake; it was the +tomb of a brother and sister named <i>Amandas</i>, +or <i>Amans</i>, for near where it stood was +lately found the following monumental +inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i8">D M</div> +<div class="i0">ET MEMORIAE ÆTERNÆ OLIÆ TRIBVTÆ</div> +<div class="i2">FEMINÆ SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVS</div> +<div class="i1">AMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMÆ</div> +<div class="i3">SIBIQVE AMANTISSIMÆ P.C. ET</div> +<div class="i5">SVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>I have seen a beautiful drawing of this +fine monument, which stood near the high +road, a little without the town; the barbarian +<i>Bourgeoises</i> threw it down about seventy +years ago, to search for treasure.</p> + +<p>But enough of antiquities; and therefore +I will tell you truly my sentiments +with respect to the south of France, which +is, that <i>Lyons</i> is quite southward enough +for an Englishman, who will, if he goes +farther, have many wants which cannot be +supplied. After quitting <i>Lyons</i>, he will +find neither good butter, milk, or cream. +At <i>Lyons</i>, every thing, which man can +wish for, is in perfection; it is indeed a +rich, noble, and plentiful town, abounding +with every thing that is good, and +more <i>finery</i> than even in <i>Paris</i> itself. They +have a good theatre, and some tolerable +actors; among whom is the handsomest +Frenchman I ever beheld, and, a little +stiffness excepted, a good actor.</p> + +<p>Any young gentleman traveller, particularly +<i>of the English nation</i>, who is desirous +of <i>replenishing his purse</i>, cannot, even +in <i>Paris</i>, find more convenient occasions +to throw himself in <i>fortune's way</i>, than at +the city of <i>Lyons</i>.</p> + +<p>An English Lady, and two or three gentlemen, +have lately been so <i>fortunate there</i>, +as to find lodgings <i>at a great Hotel</i>, gratis; +and I desire you will particularly <i>recommend +a long stay at</i> Lyons <i>to my Oxonian +friend</i>; where he may <i>see the world</i> without +looking out at a window.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLIV" id="LETTER_XLIV"></a>LETTER XLIV.</h2> + + +<p>I find I omitted to give you before I +left <i>Nismes</i>, some account of Monsieur <i>Seguier</i>'s +cabinet, a gentleman whose name +I have before mentioned, and whose conversation +and company were so very agreeable +to me. Among an infinite number +of natural and artificial curiosities, are +many ancient Roman inscriptions, one of +which is that of <i>T. Julius Festus</i>, which +<i>Spon</i> mentions in his <i>Melanges D'Antiquite</i>. +There are also a great number of Roman +utensils of bronze, glass, and earthen-ware. +The Romans were well acquainted with +the dangerous consequences of using copper +vessels<a name="FNanchor_E_5" id="FNanchor_E_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_E_5" class="fnanchor">E</a> in their kitchens, as may be +seen in this collection, where there are a +great many for that purpose; but all strongly +gilt, not only within, but without, to +prevent a possibility of <i>verdigris</i> arising. +There is also a bronze head of a Colossal +statue, found not many years since near +the fountain of <i>Nismes</i>, which merits particular +attention, as well as a great number +of Roman and Greek medals and medallions, +well preserved, and some which +are very rare. The natural curiosities are +chiefly composed of fossils and petrifications; +among the latter, are an infinite +number of petrified fish <i>embalmed</i> in solid +stones; and where one sees the finest membranes +of the fins, and every part of the +fish, delineated by the pencil of nature, in +the most exquisite manner; the greater +part of these petrifications were collected +by the hands of the possessor, some from +<i>Mount Bola</i>, others from <i>Mount Liban</i>, +<i>Switzerland</i>, <i>&c.</i></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_E_5" id="Footnote_E_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_E_5"><span class="label">E</span></a> See Dr. <span class="smcap">Falconer</span>, of <i>Bath</i>, his Treatise on +this subject.</p></div></div> + +<p>Mr. <i>Seguier</i>'s <i>Herbary</i> consists of more +than ten thousand plants; but above all, +Mr. <i>Seguier</i> himself, is the first, and most +valuable part of his cabinet, having spent +a long life in rational amusements; and +though turned of four-score, he has all the +chearfulness of youth, without any of the +garrulity of old age. When he honoured +me with a visit, at my country lodgings, +he came on foot, and as the waters were +out, I asked him how he <i>got at me</i>, so dry +footed? He had walked upon the wall, he +said; a wall not above nine inches thick, +and of a considerable length!</p> + +<p>And here let me observe that a Frenchman +eats his <i>soup</i> and <i>bouille</i> at twelve +o'clock, drinks only <i>with</i>, not <i>after</i> his +dinner, and then mixes water with his <i>genuine</i> +wine; he lives in a fine climate, +where there is not as with us, for six weeks +together, easterly winds, which stop the +pores, and obstruct perspiration. A +Frenchman eats a great deal, it is true, but +it is not all <i>hard meat</i>, and they never sit +and drink after dinner or supper is over.—An +Englishman, on the contrary, drinks +much stronger, and a variety of fermented +liquors, and often much worse, and sits +<i>at it</i> many hours after dinner, and always +after supper. How then can he expect +such health, such spirits, and to enjoy a +long life, free from pain, as most Frenchmen +do; When the negro servants in the +West-Indies find their masters call <i>after</i> +dinner for a bowl of punch extraordinary +they whisper them, (if company are present) +and ask, "<i>whether they drink for +drunk</i>, or <i>drink for dry</i>?" A Frenchman +never drinks for <i>drunk</i>.—While the Englishman +is earning disease and misery at +his bottle, the Frenchman is embroidering +a gown, or knitting a handkerchief +for his mistress. I have seen a Lady's +sacque finely <i>tamboured</i> by a Captain of +horse, and a Lady's white bosom shewn +through mashes netted by the man who +made the snare, in which he was himself +entangled; though he made it he did not +perhaps know the powers of it till she <i>set +it</i>.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLV" id="LETTER_XLV"></a>LETTER XLV.</h2> + + +<p>I write to you just as things come into +my head, having taken very few notes, +and those, as you must perceive, often +without much regard to <i>unison</i> or <i>time</i>. It +has this minute occurred to me, that I omitted +to tell you on my journey onwards, +that I visited a little town in <i>Picardie</i>, +called <i>Ham</i>, where there is so strong a +castle, that it may be called a <i>petit Bastile</i>, +and which was then and still is, full of +state prisoners and debtors. To this castle +there is a monstrous tower, the walls +of which are thirty six feet thick, and the +height and circumference are proportionable +thereto; it was built by the <i>Conetable +de St. Paul</i>, in order to shut up his master, +<i>Charles</i> the VIth, King of France, and contemporary, +I think, with our <i>Henry</i> the +Vth; but such are the extraordinary turns +of all human affairs, that <i>Mons. le Conetable</i> +was shut up in it himself many years, and +ended his days there.—The fate of this +constable brings to my mind a circumstance +that happened under my <i>administration</i>, +at <i>Land-Guard Fort</i>, when the King +was pleased to trust me with the command +of it. I had not been twenty-four hours +in possession of what I thought a small +sovereignty, before I received a letter in +the following terms:</p> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">Sir</span>, Having observed horses grazing +on the covered way, that <i>hath</i> done apparent +damage, and may do more, I +think it my duty to inform you, that his +Majesty does not permit horses to feed +thereon, &c. &c. (Signed)</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">"Anthony Goode</span>,<br /> +Overseer of the Works." +</p> + +<p>I never was more surprized, than to find +my wings were to be thus clipt, by a civil +officer of the board of ordnance; however +wrong I or my horses had acted, I could +not let Mr. <span class="smcap">Goode</span> <i>graze</i> so closely upon +my authority, without a reprimand; I +therefore wrote him an answer in terms as +follow: "that having seen a fat impudent-looking +strutting fellow about the garrison, +it was my order that when his duty +led him to communicate any thing to +me relative to the works thereof, that +he came himself, instead of writing impertinent +letters." Mr. <i>Goode</i> sent a copy +of his letter and mine to Sir <i>Charles +Frederick</i>; and the post following, he received +from the Office of Ordnance, several +printed papers in the King's name, forbidding +horses grazing on the <span class="smcap">works</span>, and +<i>ordering Mr. Goode</i> to nail those orders up +in different parts of the garrison! but as I +had not then learnt that either he, or his +<i>red ribband master</i>, had any authority to +give out, even the King's orders, in a garrison +I commanded, but through my hands, +I took the liberty, while Mr. <i>Goode</i> and +his assistant-son were nailing one up <i>opposite +to my parlour window</i>, to send for a file +of men and put them both into the Black-hold, +an apartment Mr. <i>Goode</i> had himself +built, being a Master-Mason. By the time +he had been ten minutes <i>grazing</i> under +this <i>covered way</i>, he sent me a message, +that he was <i>asthmatic</i>, that the place was +too close, and that if he died within a <i>year +and a day</i>, I must be deemed accessary to +his death. But as I thought Mr. <i>Goode</i> +should have considered, that some of the +poor invalids too might now and then be +as subject to the asthma as he, it was a +proper punishment, and I kept him there +till he knew the duty of a soldier, as well +as that of a mason; and as I would <i>his +betters</i>, had they come down and ventured +to have given out orders in a garrison under +my command; but instead of getting +me punished as a <i>certain gentleman</i> aimed +at, that able General <i>Lord Ligonier</i> approved +my conduct, and removed the +man to another garrison, and would have +dismissed him the ordnance service, had I +not become a petitioner in his favour; for +he was too fat and old to work, too proud +and arrogant to beg, and he and <i>his advisers</i> +too contemptible to be angry with.—But +I must return to the castle of <i>Ham</i>, +to tell you what a dreadful black-hold there +is in that tower; it is a trap called by the +French <i>des Obliettes</i>, of so horrible a contrivance, +that when the prisoners are to +suffer in it, the mechanical powers are so +constructed, as to render it impossible to be +again opened, nor would it signify, but to +see the body <i>molue</i>, i.e. ground to pieces.</p> + +<p>There were formerly two or three <i>Obliettes</i> +in this castle; one only now remains; +but there are still several in the <i>Bastile</i>.—When +a criminal suffers this frightful +death, (for perhaps it is not very painful) +he has no previous notice, but being led +into the apartment, is overwhelmed in an +instant. It is to be presumed, however, +that none but criminals guilty of high +crimes, suffer in this manner; for the state +prisoners in the <i>Bastile</i> are not only well +lodged, but liberal tables are kept for them.</p> + +<p>An Irish officer was lately enlarged from +the <i>Bastile</i>, who had been twenty-seven +years confined there; and though he found +a great sum of money in the place he had +concealed it in a little before his confinement, +he told Colonel C——, of Fitz-James's +regiment, that "having out-lived +his acquaintance with the world, as well +as with men, he would willingly return +there again."</p> + +<p>At <i>Ham</i> the prisoners for debt are quite +separated from the state prisoners; the +latter are in the castle, the former in the +tower.</p> + +<p>The death of <i>Lewis</i> the XVth gave liberty +to an infinite number of unhappy +people, and to many who would have been +enlarged before, but had been forgotten. +When one of these unhappy people (a woman +of fashion) was told she might go +out; then, (said she) I am sure <i>Lewis</i> the +XVth is dead; an event she knew nothing +of, tho' it was a full year after the King's +death.—Things are otherwise conducted +now than in his reign; a wicked vain woman +then commanded with unlimited +power, both in war and domestic concerns. +In this reign, there are able, and +I believe virtuous ministers.</p> + +<p>I suppose you think as I did, that Madame +<i>Pompadour</i> governed by her own +powerful charms; but that was not the +case; she governed as many other women +do, by borrowed charms; she had a correspondence +all over the kingdom, and +offices of intelligence, where <i>youth</i>, <i>beauty</i>, +and <i>innocence</i>, were registered, which were +sent to her according to order; upon the +arrival of the <i>goods</i>, they were dressed, and +trained for <i>use</i>, under her inspection, till +they were fit to be <i>shewn up</i>. She had no +regard to birth, for a shoe-maker's daughter +of great beauty, belonging to one of +the Irish brigades, being introduced to +the King, he asked her whether she knew +him? No: she did not: But did you ever +see me before, or any body like me? She +had not, but thought him very like the +face on the <i>gros Eccuis</i> of France. Madame +<i>Pompadour</i> soon found out which of +these girls proved most agreeable to the +King, and such were retained, the others +dismissed.—The expence of this traffick +was immense. I am assured where difficulties +of birth or fashion fell in the way, ten +thousand pounds sterling have been given. +Had <i>Lewis</i> the XVth lived a few years +longer, he would have ruined his kingdom. +<i>Lewis</i> the XVIth bids fair to aggrandize +it.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLVI" id="LETTER_XLVI"></a>LETTER XLVI.</h2> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Post-house, St George</span>, six leagues from +<span class="smcap">Lyons</span>.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">I am particular in dating this letter, in +hopes that every English traveller may avoid +the place I write from, by either +stopping short, or going beyond it, as it is +the only house of reception for travellers +in the village, and the worst I have met +with in my whole journey. We had been +scurvily treated here as we went; but having +arrived at it after dark, and leaving +it early, I did not recollect it again, till +the mistress by her sour face and sorry +fare betrayed it; for she well remembered +<i>us</i>. As a specimen of French auberge +cookery, I cannot help serving up a dish +of spinnage to you as it was served to me +at this house. We came in early in the afternoon, +and while I was in the court-yard, +I saw a flat basket stand upon the ground, +the bottom of which was covered with +boiled spinnage; and as my dog, and several +others in the yard, had often put +their noses into it, I concluded it was put +down for <i>their</i> food, not <i>mine</i>, till I saw a +dirty girl patting it up into round balls, and +two children, the eldest of them not above +three years old, slavering in and playing +with it, one of whom, <i>to lose no time</i>, was +performing <i>an office</i> that none could <i>do for +her</i>. I asked the maid what she was about, +and what it was she was so preparing? for +I began to think I had been mistaken, till +she told me it was spinnage;—not for me, +I hope, said I,—'<i>oui, pour vous et le monde</i>.' +I then forbad her bringing any to my table, +and putting the little girl <i>off her center</i>, +by an angry push, made her almost as dirty +as the spinnage; and I could perceive +her mother, the hostess, and some French +travellers who were near, looked upon me +as a brute, for <i>disturbing la pauvre enfant</i>; +nevertheless, with my <i>entree</i> came up a +dish of this <i>delicate spinnage</i>, with which I +made the girl a very pretty <i>Chapeau Anglois</i>, +for I turned it, dish and all, upon her head; +this set the house in such an uproar, that, +if there had not come in an old gentleman +like <i>Bourgeois</i> of <i>Paris</i>, at that instant, +I verily believe I should have been turned +out; but he engaged warmly in my defence, +and insisted upon it that I had treated +the girl just as he would have done, had +she brought such a dirty dish to him after +being cautioned not to do so; nor should +I have got any supper, had I not prevailed +on this good-natured man, who never eat +any, to order a supper for himself, and transfer +it to me. He was a native of <i>Lyons</i>, and +had been, for the first time after thirty years +absence, to visit his relations there. My entertainment +at this house, <i>outward-bound</i>, +was half a second-hand roasted turkey, or, +what the sailors call a <i>twice-laid</i> dish, i.e. +one which is <i>done over</i> a second time.</p> + +<p>I know the French in general will not +like to see this dirty charge, brought even +against an <i>aubergiste</i>, and much less to +hear it said, that this disregard to cleanliness +is almost general in the public inns; +but truth justifies it, and I hope the publication +may amend it.</p> + +<p>A modern French anonymous traveller, +who I conclude by the company he kept +in England, is a man of fashion, gives in +general a just account of the English nation, +their customs and manners; and acknowledges, +in handsome terms, the manner +he was received by some of the first +families in England. He owns, however, +he does not understand English, yet he +has the temerity to say, that <i>Gulliver's</i> travels +are the <i>chef d'œuvre</i> of <i>Dean Swift</i>; +but observes, that those travels are greatly +improved by passing through the hands of +<i>Desfontaines</i>.—This gentleman must excuse +me in saying, that <i>Desfontaines</i> neither +understood English, nor <i>Dean Swift</i>, +better than he does. He also concludes +his first volume, by observing, that what a +French Ambassador to England said of +that nation, in the year 1523, constitutes +their character at this day! 'Alas! poor +England! thou <i>be'st</i> so closely situated, and +in such daily conversation with the polite +and polished nation of France, thou hast +gained nothing of their ease, breeding, +and compliments, in the space of two hundred +and fifty years!'—What this gentleman +alludes to, is the Ambassador's letter +to the <i>Conetable Montmorency</i>, previous +to the meeting of <i>Henry</i> the Eighth and +<i>Francis</i> the First, near <i>Ardres</i>; for, (says +the Ambassador) <i>sur-tout je vous prie, que +vous ostiez de la Cour, ceux qui unt la reputation +d'etre joyeux & gaudisseur, car c'est +bien en ce monde, la chose la plus haie de cette +nation</i>. And in a few lines after, he foists +in an extract from a Scotchman, one <i>Barclay</i>, +who, in his <i>Examen of Nations</i>, says, +<i>Jenenc connoit point de plus aimable creature, +qui un François chez qui l'enjoument est +tempore par le judgment, & par discretion</i>; +to all which I subscribe: but such men are +seldom to be met with in any kingdom.</p> + +<p>This gentleman says, the most remarkable, +or rather the only act of gaiety he +met with in <i>London</i>, was an harangue +made for an hour in the House of Lords, +previous to the trial of Lord <i>Byron</i>; and +that, as he afterwards understood, it was +made by a drunken member of parliament. +He says it made him and every body laugh +exceedingly; but he laughed only (I presume) +because every body else did, and +relates the story, I fear, merely to make +it a national laugh; for the harangue was +certainly very ill placed, and the mirth it +produced, very indecent, at a time a Peer +of the realm was to be brought forth, accused +of murder; and the untimely death +of a valuable and virtuous young man, +revived in every body's memory.</p> + +<p>This is the unfavourable side of what +the gentleman says of the first people in +England. Of the peasants and lower order, +he observes, that, though they are +well fed, well cloathed, and well lodged, +yet they are all of a melancholy turn.—The +French have no idea of what we call +<i>dry humour</i>; and this gentleman, perhaps, +thought the English clown melancholy, +while he was laughing in his sleeve at the +foppery of his <i>laquais</i>.</p> + +<p>These observations put me in mind of +another modern traveller, a man of sense +and letters too, who observes, that the ballustrades +at <i>Westminster</i> bridge are fixed +very close together, to prevent the English +getting through to drown themselves: and +of a Gentleman at <i>Cambridge</i>, who, having +cut a large pigeon-hole under his closet +door, on being asked the use of it, said, he +had it cut for an old cat which had kittens, +to go in and out; but added, <i>that he +must send for the carpenter, to cut little holes +for the young ones</i>. His <i>acute visitor</i> instantly +set up a <i>horse</i> laugh, and asked +him whether the little cats could not come +out at the same hole the big one did? The +other laughing in his turn, said, he did not +<i>think of that</i>.</p> + +<p>Though I have spoken with freedom of +this French traveller's remarks, yet I must +own that, in general, he writes and thinks +liberally, and speaks highly of the English +nation, and very gratefully of many individuals +to whom he was known; and, I +dare say, a Frenchman will find many more +mistakes of mine, which I shall be happy +to see pointed out, or rectified: but were I +to pick out the particular objects of laughter, +pity, and contempt, which have fallen +in my way, in twice crossing this great +continent, I could make a second <i>Joe +Miller</i> of one, and a <i>Jane Shore</i> of the other. +If this traveller could have understood +the <i>Beggars' Opera</i>, the <i>humour</i> of +<i>Sam. Foote</i>, or the pleasantry among English +sailors, watermen, and the lower order +of the people, he would have known, +that, though the English nation have not +so much vivacity as the French, they are +behind-hand with no nation whatever, +where true wit and genuine humour are +to be displayed. What would he have +said, could he have seen and entered into +the spirit of the procession of the <i>miserable +Scalds</i>, or Mr. <i>Garrick</i> in <i>Scrub</i>; <i>Shuter</i>, +<i>Woodward</i>, Mrs. <i>Clive</i>, or even our little +<i>Edwin</i> at <i>Bath</i>? Had he seen any of these +things, he must have laughed with the +multitude, as he did in the House of Lords, +though he had not understood it, and +must have seen how inimitably the talents +of these men were formed, to excite so +much mirth and delight, even to a heavy +<i>unpolished</i> English audience.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLVII" id="LETTER_XLVII"></a>LETTER XLVII.</h2> + + +<p>From <i>St. George</i> to <i>Macon</i> is five +leagues. Nothing on earth can be more +beautiful than the face of this country, +far and near. The road lies over a vast and +fertile plain, not far distant from the banks +of the <i>Soane</i> on one side, and adorned +with mountains equally fertile, and beautiful, +on the other. It is very singular, +that all the cows of this part of the country +are white, or of a light dun colour, +and the dress of all the <i>Maconoise</i> peasants +as different from any other province in +France, as that of the Turkish habit; I +mean the women's dress, for I perceived +no difference among the men, but that +they are greater clowns, than any other +French peasants. The women wear a +broad bone lace ruff about their necks, +and a narrow edging of the same sort +round their caps, which are in the form +of the charity girls' caps in England; but +as they must not bind them on with any +kind of ribband, they look rather <i>laid upon</i> +their heads, than <i>dressed upon them</i>; their +gowns are of a very coarse light brown +woollen cloth, made extremely short-waisted, +and full of high and thick plaits +over the hips, the sleeves are rather large, +and turned up with some gaudy coloured +silk; upon the shoulders are sewed several +pieces of worsted livery lace, which seem +to go quite under their arms, in the same +manner as is sometimes put to children to +strengthen their leading-strings; upon the +whole, however, the dress is becoming, +and the very long petticoat and full plaits, +have a graceful appearance.</p> + +<p>At <i>Lyons</i> I saw a <i>Macinoise</i> girl of fashion, +or fortune, in this dress; her lace was fine, +her gown silk, and her shoulder-straps of +silver; and, as her head had much more +of the <i>bon gout</i> than the <i>bon ton</i>, I thought +her the most inviting object I had seen in +that city, my delicate landlady at <i>Nismes</i> +always excepted. I think France cannot +produce such another woman <i>for beauty</i> as +<i>Madame Seigny</i>.</p> + +<p>I bought a large quantity of the <i>Macon</i> +lace, at about eight-pence English a yard, +which, at a little distance, cannot easily be +distinguished from fine old <i>pointe</i>.</p> + +<p>Between <i>St. George</i> and <i>Macon</i>, at a time +we wanted our breakfast, we came to a spot +where two high roads cross each other, +and found there a little <i>cabbin</i>, not unlike +the Iron House, as to whim, but this was +built, sides, top, and bottom, with sawed +boards; and as a little bit of a board hung +out at the door informed us they sold wine, +I went in, and asked the mistress permission +to boil my tea-kettle, and to be permitted +to eat our breakfast in her pretty <i>cabbin</i>? +The woman was knitting; she laid down +her work, rose up, and with the ease and +address of a woman of the first fashion, +said we did her honour, that her house, +such as it was, and every thing in it, were +at our service; she then sent a girl to a farmer's +hard by, for milk, and to a village a +quarter of a league distant, for hot bread; +and while we breakfasted, her conversation +and good breeding made up a principal +part of the <i>repas</i>; she had my horse too +brought to the back part of her <i>cabbin</i>, +where he was well fed from a portable +manger. I bought of her two bottles of +white wine, not much inferior to, and +much wholesomer than, Champaigne, and +she charged me for the whole, milk, bread, +fire, <i>conversation</i>, and wine, thirty six <i>sols</i>, +about seventeen pence English! Though +this gentlewoman, for so I must call her, +and so I believe she is, lived in such a small +hut, she seemed to be in good circumstances, +and had <i>liqueurs</i>, tea, and a great variety +of <i>bons choses</i> to sell. This was the +only public house, (if it maybe called by +that name,) during my whole journey <i>out</i> +and <i>in</i>, where I found perfect civility; not +that the publicans in general have not civility +<i>in their possession</i>, but they will not, +either from <i>pride</i> or <i>design</i>, <i>produce it</i>, particularly +to strangers. My <i>wooden-house +landlady</i> indeed, was a prodigy; and it +must be confessed, that no woman of the +lower order in England, nor even of the +middling class, have any share of that ease +and urbanity which is so common among +the lower order of the <i>people</i> of this kingdom: +but the woman I now speak of, had +not, you will perceive, the least design even +upon my purse; I made no previous agreement +with her for my good fare, and +she scorned to take any advantage of my +confidence; and I shewed my sense of it, +by giving her little maid eight times more +than she ever received for such services +before—an English shilling.</p> + +<p>Let not this single, and singular woman, +however, induce you to trust to the confidence +of a French <i>aubergiste</i> especially a +<i>female</i>; you may as well trust to the conscience +of an itinerant Jew. Frenchmen +are so aware of this, that have heard a +traveller, on a <i>maigre</i> day, make his bargain +for his <i>aumlet</i> and the number of +eggs to be put in it, with an exactness +scarce to be imagined; and yet the upshot +was only two pence English.</p> + +<p>The easy manner in which a French officer, +or gentleman, can traverse this mighty +kingdom, either for pleasure or business, is +extremely agreeable, and worthy of imitation +among young British officers.—In +England, if an Ensign of foot is going a +journey, he must have two horses, and a +groom, though he has nothing but a regimental +suit of cloaths, and half a dozen +shirts to carry; his horses too must <i>set both +ends well</i> because he is a <i>Captain</i> upon the +road! and he travels at about five times +the expence of his pay.</p> + +<p>The French officer buys a little <i>biddet</i>, +puts his shirts and best regimental coat +into a little <i>portmanteau</i>, buckles that behind +his saddle, and with his sword by his +side, and his <i>croix</i> at his button-hole, travels +at the expence of about three shillings +a day, and often less, through a kingdom +where every order of people shew +him attention, and give him precedence.</p> + +<p>I blush, when I recollect that I have <i>rode</i> +the risque of being wet to the skin because +I would not <i>disgrace my saddle</i>, nor load +my back with a great coat; for I have +<i>formerly</i>, as well as <i>latterly</i>, travelled without +a servant.</p> + +<p>I have a letter now before me, which I +received a few days ago from a French +Captain of foot, who says, <i>sur le champ j'ay +fait seller ma petite Rossinante (car vous +scavez que j'ay achete un petit cheval de 90 +livres selle et bride) et me voila a Epernay +chez Monsieur Lechet</i>, &c. This gentleman's +whole pay does not amount to more +than sixty pounds a year, yet he has always +five guineas in his pocket, and every +convenience, and some luxuries about him; +he assists now and then an extravagant +brother, appears always well dressed; and +last year I bought him a ticket in the British +lottery: he did not consider that he +employed an unfortunate man to buy it, +and I <i>forgot</i> to remind him of it.</p> + +<p>After saying thus much of a virtuous +young man (<i>though a Frenchman</i>) there +will be no harm in telling you his name is +<i>Lalieu</i>, a Captain in the regiment <i>du Maine</i>.—Before +I took my last leave of him, talking +together of the horrors of war, I asked +him what he would do if he were to see +me <i>vis-a-vis</i> in an hostile manner? He +embraced me, and said, "turn the but +end of my fusee towards you, my friend." +I thank God that neither his <i>but-end</i>, nor +my <i>muzzle</i> can ever meet in that manner, +and I shall be happy to meet him in any +other.</p> + +<p><i>P.S.</i> I omitted to say, that the <i>Maconoise</i> +female peasants wear black hats, in +the form of the English straw or chip hats; +and when they are tied on, under the chin, +it gives them with the addition of their +round-eared laced cap, a decent, modest +appearance which puts out of countenance +all the borrowed plumage, dead hair, +black wool, lead, grease, and yellow powder, +which is now in motion between <i>Edinburgh</i> +and <i>Paris</i>.</p> + +<p>It is a pity that pretty women, at least, +do not know, that the simplicity of a Quaker's +head-dress, is superior to all that art +can contrive: and those who remember +the elegant <i>Miss Fide</i>, a woman of that +persuasion, will subscribe to the truth of +my assertion. And it is still a greater pity, +that plain women do not know, that the +more they adorn and <i>artify</i> their heads, +the more conspicuous they make their natural +defects.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLVIII" id="LETTER_XLVIII"></a>LETTER XLVIII.</h2> + + +<p>At <i>Challons sur la Soane</i>, (for there is +another town of the same name in <i>Champaigne</i>) +I had the <i>honor</i> of a visit from +<i>Mons. le Baron Shortall</i>, a gentleman of an +ancient family, <i>rather in distress at this +time</i>, by being <i>kept out</i> of six and thirty +thousand a year, his legal property in Ireland; +but as the Baron made his visit<i>ala-mode +de capuchin Friar</i>, without knocking, +and when only the female part of my family +were in the apartment, he was dismissed +<i>rather abruptly</i> for a man of <i>his high +rank</i> and <i>great fortune in expectation</i>. This +dismission, however, did not dismay him; +he rallied again, with the reinforcement of +<i>Madame la Baroness</i>, daughter, as he positively +affirmed, of <i>Mons. le Prince de Monaco</i>; +but as I had forbad his being <i>shewn +up</i>, he desired me to <i>come down</i>, a summons +curiosity induced me to obey. Never, +surely, were two people <i>of fashion</i> in a +more pitiable plight! he was in a <i>russet +brown black</i> suit of cloaths; Madame <i>la +Baroness</i> in much the same colour, wrapt +up in a tattered black silk capuchin; and +I knew not which to admire most, their +folly or their impudence; for surely never +did an <i>adventurer</i> set out with less <i>capabilities</i> +about him; his whole story was so +flagrant a fib, that in spite of the <i>very respectable +certificates of My Lord Mayor, John +Wilkes, and Mr. Alderman Bull</i>, I was obliged +to tell him plainly, that I did not +believe him to be a gentleman, nor his wife +to be a relation of the Prince of <i>Monaco</i>. +All this he took in good part, and then assured +me they were both very hungry, +and without meat or money; I therefore +ordered a dinner at twenty <i>sols</i> a head; +and, as I sat by while they eat it, I had +reason to believe that he told me <i>one plain +truth</i>, for in truth they eat as if they had +never eaten before. After dinner the Baron +did me the honour to consult with me <i>how</i> +he should get down to <i>Lyons</i>? I recommended +to him to proceed by <i>water</i>; but, +said he, my dear Sir, I have no money;—an +evil I did not chuse to redress; and, +after several unsuccessful attempts at my +purse, and some at my person,—he whispered +me that even six livres would be acceptable; +but I held out, and got off, by +proposing that the Baroness should write a +letter to the Prince her father, to whom I +had the honour to be known, and that I +would carry him the letter, and enforce +their prayer, by making it my own. This +measure she instantly complied with, and +addressed her father <i>adorable Prince</i>; but +concluded it with a name which could not +belong to her either as maid, wife, or widow. +I remarked this to the <i>Baron</i>, who +acknowledged at once <i>the mistake</i>, said she +had signed a false name, and she should +write it over again; but when I observed to +him that, as the Prince knew the handwriting +of his <i>own</i> dear child, and as the +name of women is <i>often varying by marriage</i>, +or <i>miscarriage</i>, it was all one: to this +he agreed; and I brought off the letter, +and my purse too, for forty <i>sols</i>; yet there +was so much falshood, folly, and simplicity +in this <i>simple pair of adventurers</i>, that I +sorely repented I did not give them their +passage in the <i>coche d'eau</i> to <i>Lyons</i>; for he +could not speak a word of French, nor +<i>Madame la Baroness</i> a word of English; and +the only <i>insignia</i> of distinction between +them, was, a vast clumsy brass-hilted sword +which the Baron, instead of wearing at his +side, held up at his nose, like a Physician's +gold-headed cane.—When I took my +leave of this <i>Sir James Shortall</i>, (for he +owned <i>at last</i> he was <i>only a Baronet</i>) he +promised to meet me <i>next time</i> dressed in +his blue and silver.</p> + +<p>I verily believe my Irish <i>adventurer</i> at +<i>Perpignan</i>, is a gentleman, and therefore I +relieved him; I am thoroughly persuaded +my <i>Challons</i> adventurer is not, yet perhaps +he was a real object of charity, and his true +tale would have produced him better success +than his <i>borrowed story</i>. <i>Sir James</i> +was about sixty, <i>Lady Shortall</i> about fifty.—<i>Sir +James</i> too had a pretty large property +in America, and would have visited +his estates on that continent, had I not +informed him of the present unhappy differences +now subsisting between that and +the mother country, of which he had not +heard a single syllable.</p> + + +<p>After having said thus much, I think I +must treat you with a copy of <i>Lady Shortall's</i> +letter, a name very applicable to their +unhappy situation, for they did indeed +seem short of every thing;—so here it is, +<i>verbatim et literatim</i>:</p> +<p class="break"> </p> +<p class="noindent">"<i>Monsieur Thickness gentilhomme anglaise</i></p> + +<p>"Adorable preince de monaco que tout +mordonne deme, lise au de fus de cette +lette le non deun digne homme qui me +randu ser visse, je suis malade, le convan; +serois preferable a mon bouneur +je veux sepandant sauve non marij mais +je me meure tre seve mon derinier soupire, +je ne le doit qua vous.</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">"Julie Baronne de Chatterre.</span><br /> +<i>le 18 May 1776.</i>" +</p> + +<p>"<i>A sont altess ele preince de Monaco, dans +sont hautelle rue de Vareinne a Paris</i>."</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XLIX" id="LETTER_XLIX"></a>LETTER XLIX.</h2> + + +<p>From <i>Challons</i> to <i>Bonne</i>, is five leagues. +<i>Bonne</i> is a good town, well walled-in, pleasantly +situated, and remarkable for an excellent +and well-conducted Hospital, where +the poor sick are received <i>gratis</i>, without +distinction, and where the rich sick are accommodated +with nurses, physicians, medicines, +food, and lodging, with every assistance +that can be wanted, for four livres +a day. The apartments in which the poor +are received, are so perfectly clean and +sweet, that they are fit for people of any +condition; but those provided for the better +sort, are indeed sumptuously furnished. +The women who act as nurses, are of a religious +order, and wear a particular, decent, +and uniform habit, to which their +modest deportment exactly coincides; yet +most of them are young, and many of +them very beautiful.</p> + +<p>Between these two towns we met an +English servant, in a rich laced livery, conducting, +behind a post-chaise, a large quantity +of baggage; and soon after, a second +servant, in the same uniform; this excited +our curiosity, and we impatiently proceeded, +in hopes of meeting the equipage, +which it was natural to expect would soon +follow; instead of which, it was an old +English four-wheel chaise, the <i>contents</i> of +which were buckled close up behind a pair +of dirty leather curtains; and on the coach-box +sat, by the side of the driver, a man +who had the appearance of an English farmer. +This contrast rather increased than +lessened our curiosity; and, therefore, at +<i>Bonne</i>, I made some enquiry about them +of the post-master; who told me they came +in, and set off, separately, just as I had met +them; but that one servant paid for the +horses to all the carriages, and that the woman +<i>behind the curtain, according to custom, +did not chuse to shew herself</i>. Just as I was +returning with this blind account, an English +servant, who I had not perceived, but +who stood near, told me, he was sure <i>as +how</i> it was either the <i>Duchess</i> of <i>Kingston</i> +or <i>Mrs Rudd</i>, for that he <i>seed</i> her very +plain. I was much surprized at finding an +Englishman so near me; and the singularity +of the man's observation had a very +forcible effect upon me. When the +mirth which it unavoidably occasioned, +was a little subsided, I could not help correcting, +in gentle terms, (though I was otherwise +glad to see even an English footman +so far from <i>English land</i>) a man in his +station for speaking of people of high +rank with so much indecent levity, and +then told him, that there was no such person +living as the <i>Duchess</i> of <i>Kingston</i>, but +that it was probable the Lady he thought +he had seen might be <i>Lady Bristol</i>; that +there was not however, the least resemblance +between the person of her Ladyship +and the other Lady he had mentioned, +the latter being young, thin, and rather +handsome; whereas <i>Lady Bristol</i> was +very fat, and advanced in years; I therefore +suspected, I told him, that he had +confounded the trials of those two Ladies, +and fancied he saw a likeness in their persons, +by an association of ideas; but in reality, +there was as much difference in their +crimes as in their persons. <i>Crimes</i>! did I +say? that is an improper expression, because +I am informed <i>Mrs. Rudd</i> has been acquitted; +but that, if the foreign papers might +be relied on, <i>Lady Bristol</i> had been found +guilty of <span class="smcap">Bigamy</span>: But as he seemed not +to understand what I meant by <i>Bigamy</i>, or +the <i>association of ideas</i>, I was unavoidably +led into a conversation, and explanation, +with this young man; which nothing but +my pride, and his ignorance, could justify; +but as the fellow was overjoyed to see me, I +could not help giving him something to +drink, and with it a caution never to speak +of people of high rank and condition, even +behind their backs, but under their +proper names or titles, and with decency +and respect: he then begged my pardon, +and assured me, if he had known that either +of the Ladies had been a friend of +mine, he would not have coupled them so +improperly together; and I am thoroughly +convinced, the man left me with a resolution, +never to hazard a conjecture without +a better foundation than that he started to +me, and which I rather believe he hit off <i>extempore</i>, +to speak to me, and shew himself +my countryman, than from really suspecting +that the woman behind the curtain +was either <i>Lady Bristol</i>, or <i>Mrs. Rudd</i>; +though I was inclined to think it very probable, +for I had seen <i>Lord Bristol</i> on his +way through <i>Lyons</i> from <i>Italy</i> to <i>England</i>, +and had been informed, <i>Lady Bristol</i> was +then on her road to <i>Italy</i>; in which case, +I, like the footman, had my conjectures, +and accounted for the leather curtains being +so <i>closely buckled to</i>.</p> + +<p>These are trifling remarks, you will say; +but if a sign-painter can paint only a bear, +those who employ him must have a bear for +their sign; nevertheless, we have all a certain +curiosity to know even the most trifling +actions, or movements of people, who +by their virtues or vices, especially if they +are people of rank or condition, have occasioned +much talk in the world; and +therefore, ridiculous as this incident is, +yet as we have long known one of the Ladies, +and often <i>admired</i> both, I could not +let either one or the other pass me unnoticed, +on a road too, where even an English +Duchess (if she would own the truth) +would feel a secret delight in meeting of a +Hyde-park-corner groom.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned what partiality +and degree of notice, countrymen take of +each other when they meet far from home. +That notice is always in proportion to the +distance. Had my <i>Bonne</i> footman spoke +of <i>Lady Bristol</i>, or <i>Mrs. Rudd</i>, in such free +terms as <i>how he seed 'em</i>, &c. &c. at Hyde-park-corner, +or in Tyburn-road, I should +have knocked him down with the but end +of my whip; but at <i>Bonne</i> (five hundred +miles from either of those places) he and I +were <i>quatre cousins</i>; and I could not help +treating him with a bottle of <i>vin de pais</i>.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_L" id="LETTER_L"></a>LETTER L.</h2> + + +<p>From <i>Bonne</i> we intended to have taken +the high road to <i>Dijon</i>; but being informed +that there was another, though not +much frequented, by way of <i>Autun</i>, and +that <i>that</i> town, which was a Roman colony, +still contained many curious monuments +worthy of notice, we pursued the +latter, which twisted in between a vast +variety of small, but fertile valleys, watered +with brooks, bounded by romantic +hills, and some high mountains, most of +which were covered with vines, which +<i>did</i> produce the most delicious red wine in +the world; I say <i>did produce</i>, for the high +<i>gout</i> and flavour of the Burgundy grape +has for many years failed, and perhaps so +as never to return again. We, however, +missed the road to <i>Autun</i>, and, after four +leagues' journey through a most delightful +country, we arrived at a miserable auberge +in a dirty village called <i>Yozy</i>, which stands +upon the margin of a large forest, in which, +some years since, the <i>diligence</i> from <i>Lyons</i> +to <i>Paris</i> was attacked by a banditti, and +the whole party of travellers were murdered: +ever since that fatal day, a guard +of the <i>Marechaussee</i> always escort the <i>diligence</i> +through this deep and dreadful forest, +(so they called it), and we were persuaded +it was right to take a couple of the +<i>Marechaussee</i>, and did so; but as we found +the forest by no means so long, deep, or +dreadful, as it had been represented, we +suspected that the advice given us, was +more for the sake of the men who <i>guarded +us</i>, than from any regard <i>to us</i>, two men +could have made no great resistance against +a banditti; and a single man would hardly +have meddled with us.</p> + +<p>The next day we passed thro' <i>Arnay-le-Duc</i>, +a pretty country village, three leagues +from <i>Yozy</i>, and it being their annual fair-day, +we had an opportunity of seeing all +the peasantry, dressed in their best, and +much chearfulness, not only in the town, +but upon the road before we arrived, and +after we passed it. Amongst the rest of +the company, were a bear and a monkey, +or rather what <i>Buffon</i> calls the <i>maggot</i>. I +desired the shew-man to permit my <i>maggot</i>, +as he was the least, the youngest, and +the <i>stranger</i>, to pay a visit to <i>Mons. Maggot</i>, +the elder, who embraced the <i>young gentleman</i> +in a manner which astonished and +delighted every body, myself only excepted; +but as <i>my young gentleman</i> seemed totally +indifferent about the <i>old one</i>, I suspected +he had <i>really met his father</i>, and I +could not help moralizing a little.</p> + +<p>From <i>Arnay-le-Duc</i> we passed through +<i>Maupas</i>, <i>Salou</i>, <i>Rouvray</i>, <i>Quisse la forge</i>, +and <i>Vermanton</i> to <i>Auxerre</i>, the town where +the French nobleman <i>was said</i> to live, +whom Dr. <i>Smollett</i> treated so very roughly, +and who, in return, was so <i>polite</i> as to +<i>help to tie</i> the Doctor's baggage behind +his coach!</p> + +<p>About a quarter of a mile without this +town, stands a royal convent, richly endowed, +and delightfully situated; the walls +of which take in near twenty acres of land, +well planted on the banks of a river; and +here I left my two daughters, to perfect +themselves in the French language, as +there was not one person within the convent, +nor that I could find, within the +town, who could speak a word of English. +And here I must not omit to tell you, how +much I was overcome with the generosity +of this virtuous, and I must add amiable, +society of <i>religieux</i>. Upon my first inquiry +about their price for board, lodging, washing, +cloaths, and in short, every thing the +children did, or might want, they required +a sum much beyond the limits of my scanty +income to give; but before we left them, +they became acquainted with <i>some circumstances</i>, +which induced them to express +their concern that the price I had offered +(not half what they had demanded) could +not be taken. We therefore retired, and +had almost fixed the children in a cheaper +convent, but much inferior in all respects, +within the town, when we received a polite +letter from the Lady Abbess, to say, +that after consulting with her sister-hood, +they had come to a resolution to take the +children at our <i>own</i> price, rather than not +shew how much they wished to oblige us. +Upon this occasion, we were <i>all</i> admitted +within the walls of the convent; and I had +the pleasure of seeing my two daughters +joined to an elegant troop of about forty +genteel children, and of leaving them under +the care of the same number of <i>religieux</i>. +And yet these good people knew nothing +of us, but what we ourselves communicated +to them, not being known, nor knowing +any person in the town.—The Lady-Abbess +of this convent is a woman of high +rank, about twenty-four years of age, and +possesses as large a share of beauty as any +reasonable woman, even on the <i>outside</i> of +a convent, could wish for.</p> + +<p><i>Auxerre</i> is a good town, pleasantly situated, +and in a plentiful and cheap country.</p> + +<p>From <i>Auxerre</i> to <i>Ioigni</i> is five leagues. +The <i>Petit bel Vue</i> on the banks of the river +is very pleasantly situated, but a dreadful +one within side, in every respect, being a +mixture of dirt, ignorance, and imposition; +but it is the only inn for travellers, and +therefore travellers should avoid it. In order +to put my old hostess in good humour, +I called early for a bottle of Champaigne; +and in order to put me into a bad humour, +she charged me the next day for two; but +I <i>charged her</i> with <i>Mons. Le Connetable</i>, +who behaved like a gentleman, though I +think he was only a <i>marchand de tonneau</i>: +but then he was a <i>wine</i> not <i>beer</i> +cooper, who hooped the old Lady's barrel.</p> + +<p>Where-ever I was ill-used or imposed +upon, I always sent a pretty heavy packet +by the post, after I had run down a hundred +miles or two, by way of <i>draw-back</i>, +upon my host, and recompence to the +King's high road; for in France,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0"><i>"Like the Quakers' by-way,</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>'Tis plain without turnpikes, so</i></div> +<div class="i0"><i>nothing to pay"</i></div> +</div></div> + +<p>An old witch, who had half starved us +at <i>Montpellier</i>, for want of provisions, when +we went, and for want of fire to dry us, +when we came back, left a piece of candle +in my budget, which I did not omit to return +by the post, <i>well packed up</i>, lest it +should grease other packets of more importance, +by riding an hundred leagues; +besides this it was accompanied by a very +civil <i>letter of advice</i>, under another cover.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LI" id="LETTER_LI"></a>LETTER LI.</h2> + + +<p>The next town of any note is <i>Sens</i>, a +large, <i>ragged</i>, ancient city; but adorned +with a most noble Gothic cathedral, more +magnificent than even that of <i>Rheims</i>, and +well worthy of the notice of strangers; it +is said to have been built by the English: +With the relicks and <i>custodiums</i> of the host, +are shewn the sacerdotal habits, in which +Archbishop <i>Becket</i> (who resided there many +years) said mass, for it was his head-quarters, +when he <i>left</i> Britain, as well as <i>Julius +Cæsar</i>'s before he went there. The +silver hasps, and some of the ornaments +of these garments, are still perfect, though +it has undergone so many darnings, as to +be little else.</p> + +<p><i>Becket</i> was a very tall man; for though +it has many tucks in it, yet it is generally +too long for the tallest priest in the town, +who constantly says mass in it on <i>St. Thomas</i>'s +day.</p> + +<p>How times and men are changed! This +town, which resisted the arms of <i>Cæsar</i> +for a considerable time, was put in the utmost +consternation by <i>Dr. Smollett</i>'s causing +his travelling blunderbuss to be only +fired in the air, a circumstance "which +greatly terrified all the <i>petit monde!</i>" It +is very singular, that the Doctor should +have frightened a French nobleman of +<i>Burgundy</i>, by shaking his cane at him, +and even made him assist in the most servile +offices; and in the next town, terrify +all the common people, by only firing a +blunderbuss in the air!</p> + +<p>I would not willingly arraign a dead man +with telling two fibbs so close upon the +back of each other; but I am sure there +was but that single French nobleman, in +this mighty kingdom, who would have +submitted to such insults as the Doctor +<i>says</i> he treated him with; nor any other +town but <i>Sens</i>, where the firing of a gun +would have so terrified the inhabitants; +for, drums, guns, and noise of every sort, +seem to afford the common French people +infinite pleasure.</p> + +<p>I spent in this town a day or two, and +part of that time with a very agreeable +Scotch family, of the name of <i>Macdonald</i>, +where Lieutenant Colonel <i>Stuart</i> was then +upon a visit.</p> + +<p>I have some reason to think that <i>Sens</i> is a +very cheap town. Several English, Scotch, +and Irish families reside in it.</p> + +<p>From <i>Sens</i> to <i>Port sur Yonne</i> is three +leagues, and from <i>Yonne</i> to <i>Foussart</i> the +same distance.</p> + +<p>At the three Kings at <i>Foussart</i>, suspecting +there was a cat behind the bed in wait for +my bird, I found, instead thereof, a little +<i>narrow door</i>, which was artfully hid, and +which opened into another room; and as +I am sure the man is a cheat, I suspect too, +that upon a <i>good occasion</i>, he would have +made some <i>use</i> of his little door.</p> + +<p><i>Foussart</i> is a small place, consisting only +of three or four public houses. From +thence to <i>Morret</i>, is three leagues, on +which road is erected a noble pillar of oriental +marble, in memory of the marriage +of <i>Lewis</i> the XVth. Soon after we passed +this monument, we entered into the delightful +forest of <i>Fontainbleau</i>; and passing +three leagues to the center of it, we arrived +at that ancient royal palace: it stands +very low, and is surrounded by a great +many fine pieces of water, which, however, +render the apartments very damp. +The King and royal family had been there +six weeks, and were gone but ten days, and +with them, all the furniture of the palace +was also gone, except glasses, and a few +pictures, of no great value. In a long, gallery +are placed, on each side of the wall, a +great number of stags' heads, carved in +wood, and upon them are fixed the horns +of stags and bucks, killed by the late, and +former Kings; some of which are very +<i>outre</i>, others singularly large and beautiful.</p> + +<p><i>Fontainbleau</i> is a good town, stands adjacent +to the palace; and as the gardens, park, +&c. are always open, it is a delightful summer +residence. We staid a few days there, +to enjoy the shady walks, and to see the humours +of a great annual fair, which commenced +the day after we arrived. All sorts +of things are sold at this fair; but the principal +business is done in the <i>wine way</i>, many +thousand pieces of the inferior Burgundy +wine being brought to this market.</p> + +<p>We made two little days' journey from +<i>Fontainbleau</i> to <i>Paris</i>, a town I entered +with concern, and shall leave with pleasure.—As +I had formerly been of some service +to <i>Faucaut</i> who keeps the <i>Hotel d'York</i>, +when he lived in <i>Rue de Mauvais Garçon</i> +I went to this <i>famous Hotel</i>, which would +have been more in character, if he had +given it the name of his former street, +and called it, <i>L'Hotel de Mauvais Garçon</i> for +it is an hospital of bugs and vermin: the +fellow has got the second-hand beds of +<i>Madame Pompadour</i>, upon his first floor, +which he <i>modestly</i> asks thirty <i>louis d'ors</i> a +month for! All the rest of the apartments +are pigeon-holes, filled with fleas, bugs, +and dirt; and should a fire happen, there +is no way of escaping. Nothing should +be more particularly attended to in <i>Paris</i> +than the security from fire, where so many, +and such a variety of strangers, and +their servants, are shut up at night, within +one <i>Porte Cochere</i>.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LII" id="LETTER_LII"></a>LETTER LII.</h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + + +<p class="noindent">I found no greater alteration in <i>Paris</i>, +after ten years' absence from it, than the +prodigious difference of expence; most +articles, I think, are one-third dearer, and +many double; a horse is not half so well fed +or lodged at <i>Paris</i> as at <i>London</i>; but the +expence is nearly a guinea a week, and a +stranger may drive half round the city +before he can lodge himself and his horses +under the same roof.<a name="FNanchor_F_6" id="FNanchor_F_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_F_6" class="fnanchor">F</a></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_F_6" id="Footnote_F_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_F_6"><span class="label">F</span></a> <i>Paul Gilladeau</i> who lately left the Silver Lion, +at <i>Calais</i>, has, I am informed, opened a Livery Stable +at <i>Paris</i>, upon the <i>London</i> plan, in partnership +with <i>Dessein</i>, of the <i>Hotel d'Angleterre</i> at <i>Calais</i>: a +convenience much wanted, and undertaken by a +man very likely to succeed.</p></div></div> + +<p>The beauties, the pleasures, and variety +of amusements, which this city abounds +with, are, without doubt, the magnets +which attract so many people of rank and +fortune of all nations to it; all which are +too well known to be pointed out by me.—To +a person of great fortune in the <i>hey-day</i> +of life, <i>Paris</i> may be preferable even +to <i>London</i>; but to one of my age and walk +in life, it is, and was ten years ago, the least +agreeable place I have seen in France.—Walking +the streets is extremely dangerous, +riding in them very expensive; and +when those things which are worthy to be +seen, (and much there is very worthy) have +been seen, the city of <i>Paris</i> becomes a melancholy +residence for a stranger, who neither +plays at cards, dice, or deals in the principal +manufacture of the city; i.e. <i>ready-made +love</i>, a business which is carried on +with great success, and with more decency, +I think, <ins class="correction" title="This should read 'than'">that</ins> even in <i>London</i>. The +English Ladies are <i>weak</i> enough to attach +themselves to, and to love, one man. The +gay part of the French women love none, +but receive all, <i>pour passer le tems</i>.—The +<i>English</i>, unlike the <i>Parisian</i> Ladies, take +pains to discover <i>who</i> they love; the French +women to dissemble with those they hate.</p> + +<p>It is extremely difficult for even strangers +of rank or fortune, to get among the first +people, so as to be admitted to their suppers; +and without that, it is impossible to +have any idea of the luxury and stile in +which they live: quantity, variety, and +show, are more attended to in France, +than neatness. It is in England alone, +where tables are served with real and uniform +elegance; but the appetite meets with +more provocatives in France; and the +French <i>cuisine</i> in that respect, certainly has +the superiority.</p> + +<p>Ten years ago I had the honour to be +admitted often to the table of a Lady of the +first rank. On <i>St. Ann's-day</i>, (that being +her name-day) she received the visits of +her friends, who all brought either a valuable +present, a poesy, or a compliment in +verse: when the dessert came upon the table, +which was very magnificent, the middle +plate seemed to be the finest and fairest +fruit (<i>peaches</i>) and I was much surprized, +that none of the Ladies, were helped +by the gentlemen from <i>that</i> plate: but +my surprize was soon turned into astonishment! +for the peaches suddenly burst +forth, and played up the Saint's name, (<i>St. +Ann</i>) in artificial fire-works! and many +pretty devices of the same kind, were +whirled off, from behind the coaches of +her visitors, to which they were fixed, as +the company left the house, which had a +pretty effect, and was no indelicate way +of <i>taking a French leave</i>.</p> + +<p>There is certainly among the French +people of fashion an ease and good-breeding, +which is very captivating, and not easily +obtained, but by being bred up with +them, from an early age; the whole body +must be formed for it, as in dancing, while +there is the pliability of youth; and where +there is, as in France, a constant, early, +and intimate correspondence between the +two sexes. Men would be fierce and savage, +were it not for the society of the other +sex, as may be seen among the Turks +and Moors, who must not visit their own +wives, when other men's wives are with +them. In France, the Lady's bed-chamber +is always open, and she receives visits +in bed, or up, with perfect ease. A noble +Lord, late ambassador to this country, +told me, that when he visited a young and +beautiful woman of fashion, (I think too +it was a first visit after marriage) she received +him sitting up in her bed; and before +he went, her <i>fille de chambre</i> brought +his Lordship <i>Madame le Comtesse</i>'s shift elegantly +festooned, which his Lordship had +the honour to put over the Lady's head, +as she sat in bed!—nor was there, by that +favour, the least indecency meant; it was +a compliment intended; and, as such only, +received. Marks of favour of <i>that</i> sort, +are not marks of <i>further favours</i> from a +French Lady.</p> + +<p>In this vast city of amusements, among +the <i>other arts</i>, I cannot help pointing out +to your particular notice, <i>Richlieu</i>'s monument +in the <i>Sorbonne</i>, as an inimitable +piece of modern sculpture<a name="FNanchor_G_7" id="FNanchor_G_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_G_7" class="fnanchor">G</a> by <i>Girardeau</i>; +and <i>Madame la Valliere's</i> full-length +portrait by <i>le Brun</i>: She was, you know, +mistress to <i>Lewis</i> the XIVth, but retired +to the convent, in which the picture now +is, and where she lived in repentance and +sorrow above thirty years.<a name="FNanchor_H_8" id="FNanchor_H_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_H_8" class="fnanchor">H</a></p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_G_7" id="Footnote_G_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_G_7"><span class="label">G</span></a> <span class="smcap">Voltaire</span> says, this monument is not sufficiently +noticed by strangers.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_H_8" id="Footnote_H_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_H_8"><span class="label">H</span></a> <span class="smcap">Madame Valliere</span>, during her retirement, +being told of the death of one of her sons, replied, +"I should rather grieve for his birth, than his +death."</p></div></div> + +<p>The <i>connoisseurs</i> surely can find no reasonable +fault with the monumental artist; +but they do, I think, with <i>le Brun</i>; the +drapery, they say, is too full, and that she +is overcharged with garments; but fulness +of dress, adds not only dignity, but decency, +to the person of a fine woman, who +meant (or the painter for her) to hide, +not to expose her charms.</p> + +<p>If fulness be a fault, it is a fault that +<i>Gainsborough</i>, <i>Hoare</i>, <i>Pine</i>, <i>Reynolds</i>, and +many other of our modern geniuses are +<i>guilty of</i>; and if it be <i>sin</i>, the best judges +will acquit them for committing it, where +dignity is to be considered.</p> + +<p><i>Madame Valliere</i> appears to have been +scattering about her jewels, is tearing her +hair, crying, and looking up to the heavens, +which seem bursting forth a tempest +over her head. The picture is well imagined, +and finely executed.</p> + +<p>I found upon the bulk of a <i>portable shop</i> +in <i>Paris</i>, a most excellent engraving from +this picture,<a name="FNanchor_I_9" id="FNanchor_I_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_I_9" class="fnanchor">I</a> and which carried me directly +to visit the original; it is indeed +stained and dirty, but it is infinitely superior +to a later engraving which now hangs +up in all the print shops, and I suppose is +from the first plate, which was done soon +after the picture was finished. Under it +are written the following ingenious, tho' +I fear, rather impious lines:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Magdala dam gemmas, baccisque monile coruscum</div> +<div class="i1">Projicit, ac formæ detrahit arma suæ:</div> +<div class="i0">Dum vultum lacrymis et lumina turbat; amoris</div> +<div class="i1">Mirare insidias! hac capit arte Deum.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_I_9" id="Footnote_I_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_I_9"><span class="label">I</span></a> In the possession of Mr. <span class="smcap">Gainsborough</span>.</p></div> +</div> +<p>Shall I attempt to unfold this writer's +meaning? Yes, I will, that my friend at +<i>Oxford</i> may laugh, and do it as it ought to +be done.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>I.</h4> +<div class="i0">The pearls and gems, her beauty's arms,</div> +<div class="i1">See sad <span class="smcap">Valliere</span> foregoes;</div> +<div class="i0">And now assumes far other charms</div> +<div class="i1">Superior still to those.</div> +<h4>II.</h4> +<div class="i0">The tears that flow adown her cheek,</div> +<div class="i1">Than gems are brighter things;</div> +<div class="i0">For these an earthly Monarch seek,</div> +<div class="i1">But those the <span class="smcap">King</span> of Kings.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>This seems to have been the author's +thought, if he thought <i>chastely</i>.—Shall I +try again?</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">The pearls and gems her beauty's arms,</div> +<div class="i1">See sad <span class="smcap">Valliere</span> foregoes:</div> +<div class="i0">Yet still those tears have other charms,</div> +<div class="i1">Superior far to those:</div> +<div class="i0">With those she gained an earthly Monarch's love:</div> +<div class="i0">With these she wins the <span class="smcap">King</span> of Kings above.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Yet, after all, I do suspect, that the author +meant more than even <i>to sneer</i> a little +at <i>poor Madam Valliere</i>; but, as I dislike +common-place poetry, (and poetry, as +you see, dislikes <i>me</i>) I will endeavour to +give you the literal meaning, according to +my conception, and then you will see +whether our <i>joint wits</i> jump together.</p> + +<p>While <span class="smcap">Magdalene</span> throws by her bracelets, adorned +with gems and pearls, and (thus) disarms her +beauty: while tears confound her countenance and +eyes,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">With wonder mark the stratagems of love,</div> +<div class="i0">With this she captivates the <span class="smcap">God</span> above.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>The impious insinuation of the Latin +lines, is the reason, I suppose, why they +were omitted under the more modern impression +of this fine print, and very middling +French poetry superseding them.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LIII" id="LETTER_LIII"></a>LETTER LIII.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p> + +<p class="noindent">If you do not use <i>Herreis</i>' bills, I recommend +to you at <i>Paris</i>, a French, rather +than an English banker; I have found the +former more profitable, and most convenient. +I had, ten years since, a letter of +credit on <i>Sir John Lambert</i>, for £300, +from <i>Mess. Hoares</i>. The <i>Knight</i> thought +proper, however, to refuse the payment of +a twenty pound draft I gave upon him; +though I had not drawn more than half +my credit out of his hands. <i>Mons. Mary</i>, +on whom I had a draft from the same respectable +house, this year will not do <i>such +things</i>; but on the contrary, be ready to +serve and oblige strangers to the utmost +of his power: he speaks and writes English +very well, and will prove an agreeable and +useful acquaintance to a stranger in <i>Paris</i>. +His sister too, who lives with him, will be +no less so to the female part of your family. +His house is in <i>Rue Saint Sauveur</i>.</p> + +<p>The English bankers pay in silver, and +it is necessary to take a wheel-barrow with +you to bring it away; a small bag will do +at the French bankers'.</p> + +<p>There is as much difference between the +bankers of <i>London</i> and bankers in <i>Paris</i>, +as between a rotten apple and a sound one. +You can hardly get a word from a London +banker, but you are sure of getting your +money; in <i>Paris</i>, you will get <i>words</i> +enough, and civil ones too. Remember, +however, I am speaking only of the treatment +I have experienced. There may be, +and are, no doubt, English bankers at <i>Paris</i> +of great worth, and respectable characters.</p> + +<p>It is not reckoned very decent to frequent +coffee-houses at <i>Paris</i>; but the politeness +of <i>Monsieur</i> and <i>Madame Felix, au caffe de +Conti</i>, opposite the <i>Pont neuf</i>, and the English +news-papers, render their house a +pleasant circumstance to me; and it is by +much the best, and best situated, of any in +<i>Paris, au vois le monde</i>.</p> + +<p>I am astonished, that where such an infinite +number of people live in so small a +compass, (for <i>Paris</i> is by no means so large +as <i>London</i>) that they should suffer the +dead to be buried in the manner they do, +or within the city. There are several burial +pits in <i>Paris</i>, of a prodigious size and +depth, in which the dead bodies are laid, +side by side, without any earth being put +over them till the ground tier is full; then, +and not till then, a small layer of earth covers +them, and another layer of dead +comes on, till by layer upon layer, and +dead upon dead, the hole is filled with a +mass of human corruption, enough to +breed a plague; these places are enclosed, +it is true, within high walls; but nevertheless, +the air cannot be <i>improved</i> by it; and +the idea of such an assemblage of putrifying +bodies, in one grave, so thinly covered, +is very disagreeable. The burials in +churches too, often prove fatal to the priests +and people who attend; but every body, +and every thing in <i>Paris</i>, is so much alive, +that not a soul thinks about the dead.</p> + +<p>I wish I had been born a Frenchman.—Frenchmen +live as if they were never to +die. Englishmen die all <i>their lives</i>; and +yet as <i>Lewis</i> the XIVth said, "I don't +think it is so difficult a matter to die, as +men generally imagine, when they +try in earnest."</p> + +<p>I must tell you before I leave <i>Paris</i>, that +I stept over to <i>Marli</i>, to see the Queen; I +had seen the King nine years ago; but he +was not then a King over eight millions +of people, and the finest country under the +sun; yet he does not seem to lay so much +stress upon his mighty power as might be +expected from so young a prince, but appears +grave and thoughtful. I am told he +attends much to business, and endeavours +to make his subjects happy. His resolution +to be inoculated, immediately after +succeeding to such a kingdom, is a proof +of his having a great share of fortitude. +In England such a determination would +have been looked upon with indifference; +but in France, where the bulk of the people +do not believe that it secures the patient +from a second attack; where the clergy +in general consider it unfavourable, even +in a religious light; and where the +physical people, for want of practice, +do not understand the management of the +distemper, so as it is known in England; +I may venture to say, without being charged +with flattery, that it was an heroic resolution: +add to this, the King knowing, that +if his subjects followed his example, it +must be chiefly done by their own surgeons +and physicians, he put himself +under their management alone, though I +think <i>Sutton</i> was then at <i>Paris</i>.</p> + +<p>The Queen is a fine figure, handsome, +and very sprightly, dresses in the present +<i>gout</i> of head dress, and without a handkerchief, +and thereby displays a most lovely +neck.</p> + +<p>I saw in a china shop at <i>Paris</i>, the figure +of the King and Queen finely executed, +and very like, in china: the King is playing +on the harp, and the Queen dropping +her work to listen to the harmony. The +two figures, about a foot high, were placed +in an elegant apartment, and the <i>toute ensemble</i> +was the prettiest toy I ever beheld: +the price thirty guineas.</p> + +<p>I shall leave this town in a few days, and +take the well-known and well-beaten <i>route +Anglois</i> for <i>Calais</i>, thro' <i>Chantilly</i>, <i>Amiens</i>, +and <i>Boulogne</i>, and then I shall have twice +crossed this mighty kingdom.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LIV" id="LETTER_LIV"></a>LETTER LIV.</h2> + + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Calais.</span></p> + +<p class="noindent">I am now returned to the point from +whence I sat out, and rather within the +revolution of one year; which, upon the +whole, though I met with many untoward +circumstances, has been the most interesting +and entertaining year of my whole +life, and will afford me matter of reflection +for the little which remains unfinished of +that journey we must all take sooner or +later, a journey from whence no traveller +returns.—And having said so much of myself, +I am sure you will be glad to change +the subject from man to beast, especially to +such a one as I have now to speak of.</p> + +<p>I told you, when I set out, that I had +bought a handsome-looking English horse +for seven guineas, but a little touched in his +wind; I can now inform you, that when I +left this town, he was rather thin, and had +a sore back and shoulder; both which, by +care and caution; were soon healed, and +that he is returned fair and fat, and not a +hair out of its place, though he drew two +grown persons, two children, (one of thirteen +the other ten years old) a very heavy +French cabriolet, and all our baggage, nay, +almost all my goods, chattels, and worldly +property whatever, outward and homeward, +except between <i>Cette</i> and <i>Barcelona</i>, +<i>going</i>, and <i>Lyons</i> and this town <i>returning!</i> +I will point out to you one of his day's +work, by which you will be able to judge +of his general power of working: At <i>Perpignan</i>, +I had, to save him, hired post-horses +to the first town in Spain, as I thought it +might be too much for him to ascend and +descend the <i>Pyrenees</i> in one day; beside +sixteen miles to the foot of them, on this +side, and three to <i>Jonquire</i> on the other; +but after the horses were put to, the post-master +required me to take two men to +<i>Boulou</i>, in order to hold the chaise, and to +prevent its overturning in crossing the river +near the village. Such a flagrant attempt +to impose, determined me to take +neither horses nor men; and at seven +o'clock I set off with <i>Callee</i> (that is my +houyhnhnm's name) and arrived in three +hours at <i>Boulou</i>, a paltry village, but in a +situation fit for the palace of <span class="smcap">Augustus</span>!</p> + +<p>So far from wanting men from <i>Perpignan</i> +to conduct my chaise over the river, +the whole village were, upon our arrival, +in motion after the <span class="smcap">job</span>. We, however, +passed it, without any assistance but our +own weight to keep the wheels down, and +the horse's strength and sturdiness, to drag +us through it. In about three hours more +we passed over the summit of this great +chain of the universe; and in two more, +arrived at <i>Jonquire</i>: near which village my +horse had a little bait of fresh mown hay, +the first, and last, he eat in that kingdom. +And when I tell you that this faithful, and +(for a great part of my journey) only servant +I had, never made a <i>faux pas</i>, never +was so tired, but that upon a pinch, he +could have gone a league or two farther; +nor ever was ill, lame, physicked, or bled, +since he was mine; you will agree, that +either he is an uncommon good horse, or +that his master is a good groom! Indeed I +will say that, however fatigued, wet, <ins class="correction" title="Should be 'hungry'?">hundry</ins>, +or droughty I was, I never partook +of any refreshment till my horse had every +comfort the inn could afford. I carried a +wooden bowl to give him water, and never +passed a brook without asking him to +drink.—And, as he has been my faithful +servant, I am now his; for he lives under +the same roof with me, and does nothing +but eat, drink, and sleep.—As he never +sees me nor hears my voice, without taking +some affectionate notice of me, I ventured +to ask him <i>tenderly</i>, whether he +thought he should be able to draw two of +the same party next year to <i>Rome?</i> No +tongue could more plainly express his willingness! +he answered me, <i>in French</i>, indeed, +<i>we-we-we-we-we</i>, said he; so perhaps +he might not be sincere, tho' he never +yet deceived me. If, however, he +should not go, or should out-live me, +which, is very probable, my dying request +to you will be, to procure him a peaceful +walk for the remainder of his days, within +the park-walls of some humane private +gentleman; though I flatter myself the following +petition will save <i>you</i> that trouble, +and <i>me</i> the concern of leaving him without +that comfort which his faithful services +merit.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h3><i>To</i> <span class="smcap">Sir James Tylney Long</span>, <i>Bart.</i></h3> + +<p class="center"><i>A Faithful Servant's humble Petition</i>,</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sheweth,</span></p> + + +<p>That your petitioner entered into +the service of his present master, at an advanced +age, and at a time too, that he laboured +under a pulmonic disorder, deemed +incurable; yet by gentle exercise, wholesome +food, and kind usage, he has been +enabled to accompany his master from <i>Calais</i> +to <i>Artois</i>. <i>Cambray</i>, <i>Rheims</i>, <i>St. Dezier</i>, +<i>Dijon</i>, <i>Challons</i>, <i>Macon</i>, <i>Lyons</i>, <i>Pont St. Esprit</i>, +<i>Pont du Garde</i>, <i>Nismes</i>, <i>Montpellier</i>, +<i>Cette</i>, <i>Narbonne</i>, <i>Perpignan</i> the <i>Pyrenees</i> +<i>Barcelona</i>, <i>Montserrat</i>, <i>Arles</i>, <i>Marseilles</i>, +<i>Toulouse</i>, <i>Avignon</i>, <i>Aix</i>, <i>Valence</i>, <i>Paris</i>, and +back to <i>Calais</i>, in the course of one year: +And that your petitioner has acquitted +himself so much to his master's satisfaction, +that he has promised to take him next year +to <i>Rome</i>; and upon his return, to get him +a <i>sine-cure</i> place for the remainder of his +days; and, as your petitioner can produce +a certificate of his honesty, sobriety, steadiness, +and obedience to his master; and +wishes to throw himself under the protection +of a man of fortune, honour and humanity, +he is encouraged by his said master +to make this his humble prayer to you, +who says that to above three hundred +letters he has lately written, to ask a small +boon for himself, he did not receive above +three answers that gave him the pleasure +your's did though he had twenty times +better pretensions to an hundred and fifty. +And as your petitioner has <i>seen a great deal +of the world, as well as his master</i>, and has +always observed, that such men who are +kind to their fellow-creatures, are kind +also to brutes; permit an humble brute to +throw himself at your feet, and to ask upon +his return from <i>Rome</i> a <i>lean-to</i> shed, under +your park-wall, that he may end his days +in his native country, and afford a <i>repas</i>, +at his death, to the dogs of a Man who +feeds the poor, cloaths the naked, and +who knows how to make use of the noblest +privilege which a large fortune can bestow,—that +of softening the calamities of +mankind, and making glad the hearts of +those who are oppressed with misfortunes.—Your +petitioner, therefore, who has never, +been upon his <i>knees before</i> to any man +living, humbly prays that he may be admitted +within your park-pail, and that he +may partake of that bounty which you +bestow in common to your own servants, +who, by age or misfortunes are past their +labour; in which request your petitioner's +master impowers him to use his name and +joint prayer with</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Callee.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>I do hereby certify, that nothing is advanced +in the above petition, but what is +strictly true, and that if the petitioner had +been able to express himself properly, his +merits and good qualities would have appeared +to much greater advantage, as well +as his services; as he has omitted many +towns he attended his master to, besides a +variety of smaller journies; that he is cautious, +wary, spirited, diligent, faithful, and +honest; that he is not nice, but eats, with +appetite, and good temper, whatever is set +before him; and that he is in all respects +worthy of that asylum he asks, and which +his master laments more on his account +than his own, that he cannot give him.</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Philip Thicknesse.</span> +</p><p> +<i>Calais, the 4th of Nov.</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">1776.</span> +</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LV" id="LETTER_LV"></a>LETTER LV.</h2> + + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Calais</span>. +</p> + +<p class="noindent">On our way here, we spent two or three +days at <i>Chantilly</i>, one, of fifty <i>Chatteaus</i> +belonging to the <span class="smcap">Prince of Conde</span>: for, +though we had visited this delightful place, +two or three times, some years ago, yet, +beside its natural beauties, there is always +something new. One spot we found particularly +pleasing, nay flattering to an Englishman; +it is called <i>l'Isle d'Amour</i>, in which +there are some thatched cottages, a water-mill, +a garden, shrubbery, &c. in the English +taste, and the whole is, in every respect, +well executed. The dairy is neat, +and the milkmaid not ugly, who has her +little villa, as well as the miller. There is +also a tea-house, a billiard-room, an eating-room, +and some other little buildings, +all externally in the English village stile, +which give the lawn, and serpentine walks +that surround them, a very pastoral appearance. +The eating-room is particularly +well fancied, being covered within, +and so painted as to produce a good idea +of a close arbor; the several windows, +which are pierced through the sides, have +such forms, as the fantastic turn of the bodies +of the painted trees admit of; and the +building is in a manner surrounded with +natural trees; the room, when illuminated +for the Prince's supper, has not only a very +pleasing effect, but is a well executed +deception, for the real trees falling into +perspective with those which are painted, +through the variety of odd-shaped windows, +has a very natural, and consequently +a very pleasing effect; but what adds +greatly to the deception, is, that at each +corner of the room the floor is opened, +and lumps of earth thrown up, which bear, +in full perfection, a great variety of flowers +and flowering shrubs. We had the honour +to be admitted while the Prince of +<i>Conde</i>, the Duke and Duchess of <i>Bourbon</i>, +the Princess of <i>Monaco</i>, and two or three +other ladies and gentlemen were at supper; +a circumstance which became rather +painful to us, as it seemed to occasion some +to the company, and particularly to the +Prince, who inquired who we were, and +took pains to shew every sort of politeness +he could to strangers he knew nothing of. +The supper was elegantly served on plate; +but there seemed to me too many servants +round the table. The conversation was +very little, and very reserved. I do not +recollect that I saw scarce a smile during +the whole time of supper.</p> + +<p>The Prince is a sprightly, agreeable +man, something in person like <i>Lord Barrington</i>; +and the <i>Duke</i> of <i>Bourbon</i> so like +his father, that it was difficult to know the +son from the father.</p> + +<p>The <i>Duchess</i> of <i>Bourbon</i> is young, handsome, +and a most accomplished lady.</p> + +<p>During the supper, a good band of music +played; but it was all wind instruments. +Mr. <i>Lejeune</i>, the first bassoon, is a +most capital performer indeed.</p> + +<p>After the dessert had been served up about +ten minutes, the Princess of <i>Monaco</i> +rose from the table, as did all the company, +and suddenly turning from it, each +lady and gentleman's servant held them a +water glass, which they used with great +delicacy, and then retired.</p> + +<p>The Princess of <i>Monaco</i> is separated from +the Prince her husband; yet she has beauty +enough for any Prince in Europe, and +brought fortune enough for two or three.</p> + +<p>The Duchess of <i>Bourbon</i> had rather a +low head-dress, and without any feather, +or, that I could perceive, <i>rouge</i>; the Princess +of <i>Monaco's</i> head-dress was equally +plain; the two other ladies, whose rank I +do not recollect, wore black caps, and hats +high dressed. There were eight persons +sat down to table, and I think, about +twenty-five servants, in and out of livery, +attended.</p> + +<p>The next day, we were admitted to see +the Prince's cabinet of natural and artificial +curiosities; and as I intimated my design +of publishing some account of my journey, +the Prince was pleased to allow me as much +time as I chose, to examine his very large +and valuable collection; among which is a +case of gold medallions,(72) of the Kings +of France, in succession, a great variety of +birds and beasts, ores, minerals, petrifactions, +gems, cameos, &c. There is also a +curious cabinet, lately presented to the +Prince by the King of Denmark; and near +it stood a most striking representation, in +wax, of a present said to be <i>served up</i> to a +late unfortunate Queen; it is the head and +right hand of <i>Count Struensee</i>, as they were +taken off after the execution; the head and +hand lie upon a silver dish, with the blood +and blood vessels too, well executed; never +surely was any thing so <i>sadly</i>, yet so +finely done. I defy the nicest eye, however +near, to distinguish it (suppose the head +laid upon a pillow in a bed) from nature; +nor must Mrs. <i>Wright</i>, or any of the workers +in wax I have ever yet seen, pretend +to a tythe of the perfection in that art, +with the man who made this head.—Sad +as the subject is, I could not withstand the +temptation of asking permission to take a +copy of it; and fortunately, I found the +man who made it was then at <i>Paris</i>,—nor +has he executed his work for me less perfect +than that he made for the Prince.—I +have been thus particular in mentioning +this piece of art, because, of the kind, I +will venture to say, it is not only <i>deadly</i> +fine, but one of the most perfect deceptions +ever seen.</p> + +<p>When you, or any of the ladies and gentlemen +who have honoured this poor performance +of mine with their names, or +their family or friends, pass this way, I +shall be happy to embrace that occasion, +to shew, that I have not said more of this +inimitable piece of art, than it merits; nor +do I speak thus positively from my own +judgment, but have the concurrent opinion +of many men of unquestionable judgment, +that it is a master-piece of art; and +among the rest, our worthy and valuable +friend Mr. <i>Sharp</i>, of the <i>Old Jewry</i>.</p> + +<p>Before we left <i>Chantilly</i>, we had a little +concert, to which <i>my train</i> added one performer; +and as it was the only string instrument, +it was no small addition.</p> + +<p>The day we left this charming place, we +found the Prince and all his company under +tents and pavilions on the road-side, +from whence they were preparing to follow +the hounds.</p> + +<p>At <i>Amiens</i>, there is in the <i>Hotel de Ville</i>, +a little antique god in bronze, which was +found, about four years ago, near a Roman +urn, in the earth, which is very well +worthy of the notice of a <i>connoisseur</i>; but +it is such as cannot decently be described; +the person in whose custody it is, permitted +me to take an impression from it in wax; +but I am not <i>quite so good</i> a hand at waxwork +as the artist mentioned above, and +yet my little houshold-god has some merit, +a merit too that was not discovered till +three months after it had been fixed in the +<i>Hotel de Ville</i>; and the discovery was made +by a female, not a male, <i>connoisseur</i>.</p> + +<p>It is said, that a Hottentot cannot be so +civilized, but that he has always a hankering +after his savage friends, and <i>dried chitterlins</i>; +and, that gypsies prefer their roving +life, to any other, a circumstance that +once did, but now no longer surprizes me; +for I feel such a desire to wander again, +that I am impatient till the winter is past, +when I intend to visit <i>Geneva</i>, and make +the tour of Italy; and if you can find me +cut a sensible valetudinarian or two, of either +sex, or any age, who will travel as we +do, to see what is to be seen, to make a little +stay, where <i>the place</i>, or <i>the people</i> invite +us to do so, who can dine on a cold partridge, +in a hot day, under a shady tree; +and travel in a <i>landau and one</i>, we will +keep them a <i>table d'hote</i>, that shall be more +pleasant than expensive, and which will +produce more health and spirits, than half +the drugs of Apothecary's Hall.</p> + +<p>If God delights so much in variety, as +all things animate and inanimate sufficiently +prove, no wonder that man should do +so too: and I have now been so accustomed +to move, though slowly, that I intend +to creep on to my <i>journey's end</i>, by which +means I may live to have been an inhabitant +of every town almost in Europe, and +die, as I have lately (and wish I had always) +lived, a free citizen of the whole +world, slave to no sect, nor subject to any +King. Yet, I would not be considered as +one wishing to promote that disposition in +others; for I must confess, that it is in +England alone, where an innocent and +virtuous man can sit down and enjoy the +blessings of liberty and his own chearful +hearth, in full confidence that no earthly +power can disturb it; and the best reason +which can be offered in favour of Englishmen +visiting other kingdoms, is, to enable +them, upon their return, to know how +to enjoy the inestimable blessings of their +own.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_LVI" id="LETTER_LVI"></a>LETTER LVI.</h2> + + +<p>For what should I cross the streight +which divides us, though it were but <i>half</i> +seven leagues? we should only meet to part +again, and purchase pleasure, as most pleasures +are purchased, too dearly; I have +dropt some heavy tears, (ideally at least) +over poor <span class="smcap">Buckle's</span><a name="FNanchor_J_10" id="FNanchor_J_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_J_10" class="fnanchor">J</a> grave, and it is all +one to a man, now with <span class="smcap">God</span>! on what +King's soil such a <i>tribute as that</i> is paid: +had some men of all nations known the +goodness of his heart as we did, some men +of all nations would grieve as we do. +When I frequented <i>Morgan's</i><a name="FNanchor_K_11" id="FNanchor_K_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_K_11" class="fnanchor">K</a> I used him +as a touch-stone, to try the hearts of other +men upon; for, as he was not rich, he was +out of the walk of knaves and flatterers, +and such men, who were moot prejudiced in +his favour at first sight, and coveted not his +company after a little acquaintance, I always +avoided as beings made of base metal. +It was for this reason I despised that +****** ****, (you know who I mean) for +you too have seen him <i>snarl</i>, <i>and bite</i>, <i>and +play the dog</i>, even to <span class="smcap">Buckle</span>!</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_J_10" id="Footnote_J_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_J_10"><span class="label">J</span></a> <span class="smcap">William Buckle</span>, Esq.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_K_11" id="Footnote_K_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_K_11"><span class="label">K</span></a> <span class="smcap">Morgan's</span> Coffee-House, Grove, <span class="smcap">Bath</span>.</p></div> +</div> + +<p>Our Sunday night's tea club, round his +chearful hearth, is now for ever dissolved, +and <span class="smcap">Sharpe</span> and <span class="smcap">Rye</span> have administered +their last friendly offices with a potion of +sorrow.</p> + +<p>Were I the hermit of <i>St. Catharine</i>, I +would chissel his name as deeply into one +of my pine-heads, as his virtues are impressed +on my memory. Though I have +lost <i>his guinea</i>, I will not lose his name; he +looked down with pity upon me when +here; who can say he may not do so still? +I should be an infidel, did not a few such +men as he <i>keep me back</i>.</p> + +<p>And now, my dear Sir, after the many +trifling subjects in this very long correspondence +with you, I will avail myself of this +good one, to close it, on the noblest work +of GOD, <span class="smcap">an honest Man</span>. The loss of +such a friend, is sufficient to induce one +to lay aside all pursuits, but that of following +his example, and to prepare to follow +him.</p> + +<p>If you should ever follow me <i>here</i>, I +flatter myself you will find, that I have, to +the best of my poor abilities, made such a +sketch of <i>men and things</i> on this side of the +water, that you will be able to discover +some likeness to the originals. A bad +painter often hits the general features, +though he fall ever so short of the graces +of <i>Titian</i>, or the <i>Morbidezza</i> of <i>Guido</i>. I +am sure, therefore, you and every man of +candour, will make allowances for the +many inaccuracies, defects, &c. which I +am sensible these letters abound with, tho' +I am incapable of correcting them. My +journey, you know was not made, as most +travellers' are, to indulge in luxury, or in +pursuit of pleasures, but to soften sorrow, +and to recover from a blow, which came +from a mighty hand indeed; but a <span class="smcap">hand</span> +still <span class="smcap">more mighty</span>, has enabled me to +resist it, and to return in health, spirits, +and with that peace of mind which no +<i>earthly power</i> can despoil me of, and with +that friendship and regard for you, which +will only cease, when I cease to be</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span class="smcap">Philip Thicknesse</span>. +</p><p> +<i>Calais, Nov. 4,</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">1776.</span> +</p> + +<p>P.S. I found <i>Berwick's</i> regiment on +duty in this town: it is commanded by +<i>Mons. le Duc de Fitz-James</i>, and a number +of Irish gentlemen, my countrymen, (for +so I will call them.) You may easily imagine, +that men who possess the natural hospitality +of their own country, with the politeness +and good-breeding of this, must +be very agreeable acquaintance in general: +But I am bound to go farther, and to say, +that I am endeared to them by marks of +true friendship. The King of France, nor +any Prince in Europe, cannot boast of +troops better disciplined; nor is the King +insensible of their merit, for I have lately +seen a letter written by the King's command +from <i>Comte de St. Germain</i>, addressed +to the officers of one of these corps, +whereby it appears, that the King is truly +sensible of their distinguished merit; for +braver men there are not in any service:—What +an acquisition to France! what a +loss to Britain!</p> + +<p>As the <i>Marquis</i> of <i>Grimaldi</i> is retired +from his public character, I am tempted +to send you a specimen of his private one, +which flattering as it is to me, and honourable +to himself, I should have withheld, had +his Excellency continued first +minister of Spain; by which you will see, +that while my own countrymen united to +set me in a suspicious light, (though they +thought otherwise) the ministers politeness +and humanity made them tremble at +the duplicity of their conduct; and had I +been disposed to have acted the same sinister +part they did, some of them might +have been reminded of an old Spanish proverb,</p> + +<p class="center"> +"<i>A las màlas lénguas tigéras</i>"<br /> +</p> + +<p>"Muy S<sup>or</sup>. mio. Por la carta de <span class="smcap">i</span><sup>o</sup> del +corr<sup>te</sup>. veo su feliz llegada a esta ciudad, +en donde habia tomado una casa, y por +las cartas que me incluye, y debuelbo, +reconosco los terminos honrados y recomendables +con que ha efectuado su salida +de Inglaterra, cosa que yo nunca podria +dudar.</p> + +<p>"Deseo que a V.S. le va' ya muy bien en +este Reyno, y espero que me avifara el tiempo +que se propusiere detener en Barcelona, +y tambien quando se verificara +su yda a Valencia: cuyo Pais se ha creydo +el mas propio para su residencia estable, +por la suavidad del clima y demas +circunstantias.—V.S. me hallara pronto +a complacerle y sevirle en lo que se +le ofrezca: que es quendo en el dia puedo +decirle, referiendome ademas a mis +cartas precedentes communicadas por +medio de ... Dios quiere a V.S. M<sup>o</sup> c<sup>o</sup> +d<sup>o</sup> S<sup>r</sup> el 14 Nov<sup>re</sup>. de 1775.<br /><br /> + + +<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">"B L.M. en. S.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">Su mayor fer<sup>or</sup>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">El Marq<sup>s</sup> de</span> <span class="smcap">Grimaldi</span>,<br /> +<i>A Don Felipe Thickness</i>." +</p> + +<p class="center"><i>A Madame</i> <span class="smcap">THICKNESSE</span>.</p> + +<p>Voila, Madame, quelques amusemens de +ma plume, vous avez paru les desirer, mon +empressement a vous obeir sera le merite de +ces legeres productions; la premiere a eu +assez de succes en France, je doute qu'elle +puisse en avoir un pareil en Angleterre, +parce que le mot n'a peut-etre pas la meme +signification ce que nous appellons Grelot +est une petite cochette fermee que l'on attache +aux hochets des enfans pour les amuser; +dans le sens metaphysique on en fait +un des attributs de la folie: Ice je l'employe +comme embleme de gaiete et d'enfance. +Le Pritems est une Epitre ecrite +de la campagne a un de mes amis; j'etois +sous le charme de la creation, pour ainsi +dire; les vers en font d'une mesuretres difficile.</p> + +<p>La description de Courcelles est celle +d'une terre qu'avoit ma mere, et ou j'ai +passe toute ma jeunesse; enchantee de son +paysage, et de la vie champetre que j'aime +passion, je l'adressois a un honnete homme +de Rheims que j'appellois par plaisanterie +mon Papa: ce que j'ai de meilleur dans +mon porte-feuille, ce sont des chansons pour +mon mari; comme je l'aime parfaitement +mon cœur m'a servi de muse: mais cette +tendresse toujours si delicieuse aux interesses +ne peut plaire a ceux qui ne le sont pas. +Quand j'auri l'honneur de vous revoir, Madame, +je vous communiquerai mon recueil, +et vous jugerez. Recevez les hommages +respectueux de mon mari, et daignezfaire +agreér nos vœux a Mons. Tiennerse; je n'ai +point encore reçu les jolies poches, je pars +demain pour la campagne, et j'y resterai +quinze jours; nous avons des chaleurs +cruelles, Messrs. les Anglois qui sont ici en +souffrent beaucoup, j'ai l'honneur d'etre avec +le plus inviolable attachement,</p> + +<p> +Madame,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Votre tres humble</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">et tres obeissante servante,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;"><i>De Courcelles Desjardins.</i></span><br /> +28 Juillet, 1776. +</p> + + + +<hr /> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4><i>Epitre au Grelot.</i></h4> + +<div class="i0">De la folie aimable lot</div> +<div class="i0">Don plus brillant que la richesse,</div> +<div class="i0">Et que je nommerai sagesse</div> +<div class="i0">Si je ne craignois le fagot,</div> +<div class="i0">C'est toi que je chante ô Grelot!</div> +<div class="i0">Hochet heureux de tous les ages</div> +<div class="i0">L'homme est à toi dès le maillot,</div> +<div class="i0">Mais dans tes nombreux appanages</div> +<div class="i0">Jamais tu ne comptas le sot:</div> +<div class="i0">De tes sons mitigés le sage</div> +<div class="i0">En tapinois se rejouït</div> +<div class="i0">Tandis que l'insensé jouït</div> +<div class="i0">Du plaisir de faire tapage.</div> +<div class="i0">Plus envié que dédaigné</div> +<div class="i0">Par cette espece atrabilaire</div> +<div class="i0">Qui pense qu'un air refrogné</div> +<div class="i0">La met au dessus du vulgaire,</div> +<div class="i0">La privation de tes bienfaits</div> +<div class="i0">Seule fait naître sa satyre;</div> +<div class="i0">Charmante idole du François</div> +<div class="i0">Chez lui réside ton empire:</div> +<div class="i0">Tes détracteurs font les pedans,</div> +<div class="i0">Les avares et les amans</div> +<div class="i0">De cette gloire destructive</div> +<div class="i0">Qui peuple l'infernale rive,</div> +<div class="i0">Et remplit l'univers d'excès.</div> +<div class="i0">L'ambitieux dans son délire</div> +<div class="i0">N'eprouve que de noirs accès,</div> +<div class="i0">Le genre-humain seroit en paix,</div> +<div class="i0">Si les conquérans savoient rire.</div> +<div class="i0">Contre ce principe évident</div> +<div class="i0">C'est en vain qu'un censeur declame,</div> +<div class="i0">Le mal ne se fait en riant.</div> +<div class="i0">Si de toi provient l'epigrame,</div> +<div class="i0">Son tour heureux ne'est que plaisant</div> +<div class="i0">Et ne nuit jamais qu'au méchant</div> +<div class="i0">Que sa conscience décèle.</div> +<div class="i0">Nomme t-on la rose cruelle</div> +<div class="i0">Lorsqu'un mal-adroit la cueillant</div> +<div class="i0">Se blesse lui-même au tranchant</div> +<div class="i0">De l'epine qu'avec prudence</div> +<div class="i0">Nature fit pour sa défense.</div> +<div class="i0">Tes simples et faciles jeux</div> +<div class="i0">Prolongent dit-on notre enfance</div> +<div class="i0">Censeur, que te faut-il de mieux!</div> +<div class="i0">Des abus, le plus dangereux,</div> +<div class="i0">Le plus voisin de la démence</div> +<div class="i0">Est de donner trop d'importance</div> +<div class="i0">A ces chiméres dont les cieux</div> +<div class="i0">Ont composé notre existence</div> +<div class="i0">Notre devoir est d'être heureux</div> +<div class="i0">A moins de frais, à moins de vœux</div> +<div class="i0">De l'homme est toute la science.</div> +<div class="i0">Par tes sons toujours enchanteurs</div> +<div class="i0">Tu fais fuir la froide vieillesse</div> +<div class="i0">Ou plutôt la couvrant de fleurs</div> +<div class="i0">Tu lui rends l'air de la jeunesse.</div> +<div class="i0">Du temps tu trompes la lenteur,</div> +<div class="i0">Par toi chaque heure est une fête</div> +<div class="i0"><i>Démocrite</i> fut ton Docteur</div> +<div class="i0"><i>Anacréon</i> fut ton Prophête;</div> +<div class="i0">Tous deux pour sages reconnus,</div> +<div class="i0">L'un riant des humains abus</div> +<div class="i0">Te fit sonner dans sa retraite</div> +<div class="i0">L'autre chantant à la guingette</div> +<div class="i0">Te donna pour pomme à <i>Venus</i></div> +<div class="i0">Après eux ma simple musette</div> +<div class="i0">T'offre ses accens ingénus</div> +<div class="i0">Charmant Grelot, sur ta clochette</div> +<div class="i0">Je veux moduler tous mes vers,</div> +<div class="i0">Sois toujours la douce amusette</div> +<div class="i0">Source de mes plaisirs divers</div> +<div class="i0">Heureux qui te garde en cachette</div> +<div class="i0">Et se passe l'univers.</div> +</div></div> + + + +<hr /> +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4><i>Le Printems.</i></h4> + +<p>Epitre à Mons. D——</p> + + +<div class="i0">Déjà dans la plaine</div> +<div class="i0">On ressent l'haleine</div> +<div class="i0">Du léger Zephir;</div> +<div class="i0">Déja la nature</div> +<div class="i0">Sourit au plaisir,</div> +<div class="i0">La jeune verdure</div> +<div class="i0">A l'eclat du jour</div> +<div class="i0">Oppose la teinte</div> +<div class="i0">Que cherit l'amour</div> +<div class="i0">Fuyant la contrainte,</div> +<div class="i0">Au pied des ormeaux;</div> +<div class="i0">Ma muse naïve</div> +<div class="i0">Reprend ses pipeaux;</div> +<div class="i0">Sur la verte rive</div> +<div class="i0">Aux tendres echos</div> +<div class="i0">Elle dit ces mots.</div> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Volupté sure</div> +<div class="i0">Bien sans pareil!</div> +<div class="i0">O doux réveil</div> +<div class="i0">De la nature!</div> +<div class="i0">Que l'ame pure</div> +<div class="i0">Dans nos guérets</div> +<div class="i0">Avec yvresse</div> +<div class="i0">Voit tes attraits;</div> +<div class="i0">De la tendresse</div> +<div class="i0">Et de la paix</div> +<div class="i0">Les doux bienfaits</div> +<div class="i0">Sur toute espéce</div> +<div class="i0">Vont s'epandant,</div> +<div class="i0">Et sont l'aimant</div> +<div class="i0">Dont la magie</div> +<div class="i0">Enchaîne et lie</div> +<div class="i0">Tout l'univers</div> +<div class="i0">L'homme pervers</div> +<div class="i0">Dans sa malice</div> +<div class="i0">Ferme son cœur</div> +<div class="i0">A ces delices,</div> +<div class="i0">Et de l'erreur</div> +<div class="i0">Des goûts factices</div> +<div class="i0">Fait son bonheur</div> +<div class="i0">La noire envie</div> +<div class="i0">Fille d'orgueil,</div> +<div class="i0">Chaque furie</div> +<div class="i0">Jusqu'au circueil,</div> +<div class="i0">Tisse sa vie.</div> +<div class="i0">Les vains désirs</div> +<div class="i0">Les vrais plaisirs</div> +<div class="i0">Sont antipodes;</div> +<div class="i0">A ces pagodes</div> +<div class="i0">Culte se rend,</div> +<div class="i0">L'oeil s'y méprend</div> +<div class="i0">Et perd de vuë</div> +<div class="i0">Felicité,</div> +<div class="i0">La Déité</div> +<div class="i0">La plus couruë</div> +<div class="i0">La moins connuë</div> +<div class="i0">Simple réduit</div> +<div class="i0">Et solitaire</div> +<div class="i0">Jadis construit</div> +<div class="i0">Par le mystére</div> +<div class="i0">Est aujourd'hui</div> +<div class="i0">Sa residencei</div> +<div class="i0">La bienveillance.</div> +<div class="i0">Au front serein</div> +<div class="i0">De la déesse</div> +<div class="i0">Est la Prêtresse;</div> +<div class="i0">Les ris badins</div> +<div class="i0">Sont sacristains,</div> +<div class="i0">Joyeux fidelles,</div> +<div class="i0">De fleurs nouvelles</div> +<div class="i0">Offrent les dons.</div> +<div class="i0">Tendres chansons</div> +<div class="i0">Tribut du Zele,</div> +<div class="i0">Jointes au sons</div> +<div class="i0">De Philoméle,</div> +<div class="i0">De son autel</div> +<div class="i0">Sont le rituel</div> +<div class="i0">Dans son empire</div> +<div class="i0">Telle est la loi,</div> +<div class="i0">"Aimer et rire</div> +<div class="i0">De bonne foy."</div> +<div class="i0">Cet Evangile</div> +<div class="i0">Peu difficile</div> +<div class="i0">Du vrai bonheur</div> +<div class="i0">Seroit auteur</div> +<div class="i0">Si pour apôtre</div> +<div class="i0">Il vous avoit;</div> +<div class="i0">En vain tout autre</div> +<div class="i0">Le prêcheroit.</div> +<div class="i0">La colonie</div> +<div class="i0">Du double mont</div> +<div class="i0">Du vraie génie</div> +<div class="i0">Vous a fait don,</div> +<div class="i0">Sans nul caprice</div> +<div class="i0">Entrez en lice,</div> +<div class="i0">Et de Passif</div> +<div class="i0">Venant actif</div> +<div class="i0">Pour la Déesse</div> +<div class="i0">Enchanteresse</div> +<div class="i0">Qui dans ces lieux</div> +<div class="i0">Nous rend heureux</div> +<div class="i0">Donnez moi rose</div> +<div class="i0">Nouvelle éclose:</div> +<div class="i0">Du doux Printems</div> +<div class="i0">Hâtez le tems</div> +<div class="i0">Il etincelle</div> +<div class="i0">En vos écrits,</div> +<div class="i0">Qu'il renouvelle</div> +<div class="i0">Mes Esprits.</div> +<div class="i0">Adieu beau Sire,</div> +<div class="i0">Pour ce délire</div> +<div class="i0">Le sentiment</div> +<div class="i0">Est mon excuse.</div> +<div class="i0">S'il vous amuse</div> +<div class="i0">Un seul moment,</div> +<div class="i0">Et vous rapelle</div> +<div class="i0">Un cœur fidelle</div> +<div class="i0">Depuis cent ans,</div> +<div class="i0">Comme le vôtre</div> +<div class="i0">En tous les tems</div> +<div class="i0">N'ai désir autre.</div> +</div></div> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="FABLE" id="FABLE"></a>FABLE</h2> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4><i>Les Aquilons et l'Oranger.</i></h4> + + +<div class="i0">De fougeux Aquilons une troupe emportée</div> +<div class="i0">Contre un noble Oranger éxhaloit ses fureurs</div> +<div class="i0">Ils soufflerent en vain, leur rage mutinée</div> +<div class="i0">De l'arbre aux fruits dorés n'ôta que quelques fleurs.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>MADRIGAL</h4> + +<div class="i0">Du tumulte, du bruit, des vaines passions</div> +<div class="i0">Fuyons l'eclat trompeur: à leurs impressions</div> +<div class="i0">Préférons les douceurs de ce sejour paisible,</div> +<div class="i0">Disoit un jour <i>Ariste</i> à la tendre <i>Délos</i>.</div> +<div class="i0">Soit, repart celle-ci; mais las! ce doux repos</div> +<div class="i0">N'est que le pis-aller d'une ame trop sensible.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>QUATRAIN</h4> + +<div class="i0">Telle que ce ruisseau qui promene son onde</div> +<div class="i0">Dans des lieux ecartés loin du bruit et du monde</div> +<div class="i0">Je veux pour peu d'amis éxister desormais</div> +<div class="i0">C'est loin des faux plaisirs que l'on trouve les vrais.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>REVERIE SUR UNE LECTURE.</h4> + +<div class="i0">Aux froids climats de l'ourse, et dans ceux du midi,</div> +<div class="i0">L'homme toujours le même est vain, foible, et crédule,</div> +<div class="i0">Sa devise est partout <i>Sottise et Ridicule</i>.</div> +<div class="i0">Le célébre Chinois, le François étourdi</div> +<div class="i0">De la raison encore n'ont que le crepuscule</div> +<div class="i0">Jadis au seul hazard donnant tout jugement,</div> +<div class="i0">Par les effets cuisans du fer rougi qui brule</div> +<div class="i0">On croyoit discerner le foible et l'innocent;</div> +<div class="i0">A Siam aujourd'hui pareille erreur circule,</div> +<div class="i0">Et l'on voit même esprit sous une autre formule:</div> +<div class="i0">Quand quelque fait obscur tient le juge en suspens</div> +<div class="i0">On fait aux yeux de tous à chaque contendant</div> +<div class="i0">D'Esculape avaler purgative pillule,</div> +<div class="i0">Celui dont l'estomac répugne à pareil mets</div> +<div class="i0">Est réputé coupable et paye tous les frais.</div> +<div class="i0">Du pauvre genre-humain telles sont les annales:</div> +<div class="i0">Rome porta le deuil de l'honneur des vestales,</div> +<div class="i0">Du Saint Pere à présent, elle baise l'ergot:</div> +<div class="i0">Plus gais, non plus sensés dans ce siécle falot</div> +<div class="i0">Nous choisissons au moins l'erreur la plus jolie:</div> +<div class="i0">De l'inquisition, le bal, la comédie</div> +<div class="i0">Remplacent parmi nous le terrible fagot;</div> +<div class="i0">Notre légéreté détruit la barbarie</div> +<div class="i0">Mais nous n'avons encore que changé de folie.</div> +</div></div> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<h4>ENVOI A MON MARI.</h4> + +<div class="i0">Tandis, mon cher, que tes travaux</div> +<div class="i0">Me procurent ce doux repos.</div> +<div class="i0">Et cette heureuse insouciance</div> +<div class="i0">But incertain de l'opulence;</div> +<div class="i0">Mon ame l'abeille imitant</div> +<div class="i0">Aux pays d'esprit élancée</div> +<div class="i0">Cueille les fleurs de la pensée</div> +<div class="i0">Et les remet aux sentiment.</div> +<div class="i0">Mais helas! dans ce vaste champ</div> +<div class="i0">En vain je cherche la sagesse,</div> +<div class="i0">Près de moi certain Dieu fripon</div> +<div class="i0">Me fait quitter l'école de <i>Zenon</i></div> +<div class="i0">Pour le charme de la tendresse;</div> +<div class="i0">"L'homme est crée pour être bon</div> +<div class="i0">Et non savant, dit il, qu'il aime,</div> +<div class="i0">Du bonheur c'est le vrai systême"</div> +<div class="i0">Je sens, ma foi, qu'il a raison.</div> +</div></div> + + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="DESCRIPTION" id="DESCRIPTION"></a>DESCRIPTION</h2> + +<p class="center"><i>De la terre dans laquelle j'habitois, adressée à un +homme très respectable que j'appellois mon Papa.</i></p> + + +<p>Que vous êtes aimable, mon cher Papa, de +me demander une description de ma solitude. +Votre imagination est gênée de ne pouvoir se la +peindre. Vous voulez faire de <i>Courcelles</i> une seconde +étoile du matin, et y lier avec moi un de +ces commerces d'ames réservés aux favoris de +Brama. Votre idée ne me perdra plus de vue, +j'en ferai mon génie tutélaire. Je croirai à chaque +instant sentir sa présence, ah! elle ne peut +trop tôt arriver, montrons lui donc le chemin.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quittant votre cité Rhémoise,</div> +<div class="i0">Ville si fertil en bons Vins,</div> +<div class="i0">En gras moutons, en bons humains,</div> +<div class="i0">Après huit fois trois mille toises</div> +<div class="i0">Toujours suivant le grand chemin,</div> +<div class="i0">On découvre enfin le village</div> +<div class="i0">Où se trouve notre hermitage.</div> +<div class="i0">Là rien aux yeux du voyageur</div> +<div class="i0">Ne presente objet de surprise,</div> +<div class="i0">Petit ruisseau, des maisons, une Eglise</div> +<div class="i0">Tout à côté la hutte du Pasteur;</div> +<div class="i0">Car ces Messieurs pour quelques Patenôtres.</div> +<div class="i0">Pour un surplis, pour un vêtement noir</div> +<div class="i0">En ce monde un peu plus qu'en l'autre</div> +<div class="i0">Ont droit près du bon dieu d'établir leur manoir.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Ce début n'est pas fort seduisant; aussi ne vous +ai-je rien promis de merveilleux. Je pourrois +cependant pour embellir ma narration me perdre +dans de brillantes descriptions, et commencer par +celle de notre clocher; mais malheureusement +nous n'en avons point; car je ne crois pas que +l'on puisse appeller de ce nom l'endroit presque +souterrain où logent trois mauvaises cloches. +Elles m'étourdissent par fois au point que sans +leur baptême, je les enverrois aux enfers sonner +les diners de <i>Pluton</i> et de <i>Proserpine</i>.</p> + +<p>On apperçoit près de l'Eglise, entre elle et le +curé, une petite fenêtre grillée, ceci est une vraie +curiosité; c'est un sépulcre bâti par <i>Saladin d'Anglure</i>, +ancien Seigneur de <i>Courcelles</i> il vivoit du +tems des croisades, et donna comme les autres +dans la manie du siécle. Il ne fut pas plus heureux +que ses confreres. Son sort fut d'être prisonnier +du vaillant Saladin dont il conserva le +surnom. Sa captivité l'ennuyant, il fit vœu, si +elle finissoit bientôt, de bàtir dans sa Seigneurie +un sépulcre, et un calvaire à même distance l'un +de l'autre qu'ils le sont à Jérusalum. C'est aussi +ce qu'il fit.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quand par une aventure heureuse,</div> +<div class="i0">Des fers du Vaillant <i>Saladin</i></div> +<div class="i0">Il revint chez lui sauf et sain;</div> +<div class="i0">Mais la chronique scandaleuse</div> +<div class="i0">Qui daube toujours le prochain,</div> +<div class="i0">Et ne se repâit que de blame</div> +<div class="i0">Pretend que trop tôt pour Madame,</div> +<div class="i0">Et trop tard pour le Pelerin</div> +<div class="i0">Dans son Châtel il s'en revint.</div> +<div class="i0">Ce fut, dit on, le lendemain,</div> +<div class="i0">La veille, ou le jour que la Dame,</div> +<div class="i0">Croyant son mari très benin</div> +<div class="i0">Parti pour la gloire éternelle</div> +<div class="i0">Venoit de contracter une hymenée nouvelle.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">La tradition étoit en balance sur ces trois dates; +mais la malignité humaine a donné la préférence +à la derniére, ensorte qu'il paroit trés sur que +l'Epoux n'arriva que le lendemain.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quel affront pour un chef couronné de lauriers!</div> +<div class="i0">Tel est pourtant le sort des plus fameux guerriers;</div> +<div class="i0">Ceux d'aujourd'hui n'en font que rire</div> +<div class="i0">Mais ceux du tems passé mettoient la chose au pis,</div> +<div class="i0">Ils n'avoient pas l'esprit de dire</div> +<div class="i0">Nous sommes quitte, et bons amis.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Pendant que vous êtes en train de visiter nos antiquités +courcelloises, il me prend envie de vous +faire entrer dans notre réduit.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Quoique du titre de château,</div> +<div class="i0">Pompeusement on le decore,</div> +<div class="i0">Ne vous figurez pas qu'il soit vaste ni beau.</div> +<div class="i0">Tel que ces Grands que l'on honore</div> +<div class="i0">Pour les vertus de leurs ayeux</div> +<div class="i0">Pour tout mérite il n'a comme eux</div> +<div class="i0">Qu'un nom qui se conserve encore.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Ainsi pour vous en former une juste idée, ne cherchez +votre modéle ni dans les romans, ni dans les +miracles de féerie. Ce n'est pas même un vieux +château fort, comme il en éxiste encore quelques +uns dàns nos entours.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Point, on n'y voit fossé ni bastion</div> +<div class="i0">Ni demi-lune ni Dongeon,</div> +<div class="i0">Ni beaux dehors de structure nouvelle,</div> +<div class="i0">Mais bien une antique Tourelle</div> +<div class="i0">Flanquant d'assez, vieux bâtimens</div> +<div class="i0">Dont elle est l'unique ornement.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Un Poëte de nos cantons a dit assez plaisamment +en parlant de ceci.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Sur les bords de la Vesle est un château charmant</div> +<div class="i0">N'allez pas chicaner, Lecteur impertinent)</div> +<div class="i0">(Le bâtiment à part, la Dame qui l'habite</div> +<div class="i0">Par ses rares vertus en fait tout le mérite.</div> +<div class="i0">Vous verrez tout-à l'heure s'il avoit raison.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Je ne m'arrêterai point à vous peindre la ferme +quoi qu'elle tienne au château, ni l'attirail des animaux +de toute espèce qu'elle renferme.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Ces spectacles vraiment rustiques</div> +<div class="i0">Offrent pourtant plus de plaisirs</div> +<div class="i0">A des regards philosophiques,</div> +<div class="i0">Que ce que l'art et les desirs</div> +<div class="i0">De notre insatiable espèce</div> +<div class="i0">Inventent tous les jours aidés par la mollesse.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Je vous ferai entrer tout de suite dans une grande +cour de gazon où effectivement je voudrois bien +vous voir. Deux manieses de Perrons y conduisent, +l'un aux appartemens, l'autre à la cuisine. +Commençons par ce dernier quoique ce ne soit +pas trop la coutume.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Là chaque jour, tant bien que mal,</div> +<div class="i0">On apprete deux fois un repas très frugal,</div> +<div class="i0">Mais que l'appétit assaisonne.</div> +<div class="i0">Loin, bien loin, ces bruyans festins,</div> +<div class="i0">Toujours suivis des médecins</div> +<div class="i0">Où le poison dans cent ragoûts foisonne</div> +<div class="i0">Nous aimons mieux peu de mets bien choisis</div> +<div class="i0">De la Santé, moins de plats, plus de ris.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Voilà notre devise, mon cher Papa, je crois qu'elle +est aussi la vôtre; notre réz de chaussée consiste +en cuisine, office, salle à manger, chambre et cabinets, +rien de tout cela n'est ni élegant ni commode.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Nos devanciers fort bonnes gens</div> +<div class="i0">N'entendoient rien aux ornemens</div> +<div class="i0">Et leurs désirs ne passoient guére</div> +<div class="i0">Les bornes du seul necessaire.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Ils étoient plus heureux et plus sages que nous, +car la vraie sagesse n'est autre chose que la modération +des desirs. D'après cette definition on +pourroit, je crois, loger tout notre siécle aux petites +maisons. Ce qu'il y a de plus agréable dans +la notre est la vuë du grand chemin.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">De ce chemin où chacun trotte</div> +<div class="i0">Où nous voyons soirs et matins</div> +<div class="i0">Passer toute espece d'humains;</div> +<div class="i0">Tantôt la gent portant calote,</div> +<div class="i0">Et tantôt de jeunes plumets,</div> +<div class="i0">Les rusés disciples d'Ignace</div> +<div class="i0">Puis ceux de la grace efficace,</div> +<div class="i0">Des piétons, des cabriolets</div> +<div class="i0">Tant d'Etres à deux pieds, sots, et colifichets,</div> +<div class="i0">Enfin cent sortes d'équipages</div> +<div class="i0">Et mille sortes de visages.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Ce tableau mouvant est par fois fort récréatif, il +me paroit assez plaisant d'y juger les gens sur la +mine, et de deviner leur motif, et le sujet de leurs +courses.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Mais, Papa, qu'il est consolant</div> +<div class="i0">Voyant leurs soins et leur inquiétude</div> +<div class="i0">De jouir du repos constant</div> +<div class="i0">Qu'on goute dans la solitude.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">A dire vrai, le spectacle du grand chemin, est +celui qui m'occupe le moins; j'aime mille fois +mieux nos promenades champêtres; avant de +yous y conduire, il faut en historien fidelle vous +rendre compte de notre chaumiére.</p> + +<p>Vous croyez peut-être trouver un premier +étage au dessus de la façade dont je vous ai parlé? +Point du tout. Ne vous ai-je pas dit que nos +péres préferoient l'utile à l'agréable: aussi ont ils +mieux aimé construire de grands greniers que de +jolis appartemens; mais en revanche ils out jetté +quantité de petites mansardes sur un autre côté +du logis. Ce dernier donne sur un verger qui +fait mes délices, il est précédé d'un petit parterre, +et finit par un bois charmant.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Une onde toujours claire et pure</div> +<div class="i0">Y vient accorder souo murmure</div> +<div class="i0">Au son mélodieux de mille et mille oiseaux</div> +<div class="i0">Que cachent en tous tems nos jeunes arbrisseaux.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">C'est là que votre fille se plait à rêver à vous, +mon cher Papa, c'est dans ce réduit agréable +qu'elle s'occupe tour à tour de morale et de tendresse.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<p class="center"><i>Epictete, Pope, Zénon.</i></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Et <i>Socrate</i>, et surtout l'ingenieux <i>Platon</i>,</div> +<div class="i0">Viennent dans ces lieux solitaires</div> +<div class="i0">Me prêter le secours de leurs doctes lumiéres:</div> +<div class="i0">Mais plus souvent la sœur de l'enfant de Cypris</div> +<div class="i0">Ecartant sans respect cette foule de sages</div> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2">Occupe seule mes esprits</div> +<div class="i1">En y gravant de mes amis</div> +<div class="i1">Les trop séduisantes images.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Je n'entreprendrai pas de vous peindre nos autres +promenades, elles sont toutes charmantes; +un paysage coupé, quantité de petits bosquets, +mille jolis chemins, nous procurent naturellement +des beautés auxquelles l'art ne sauroit atteindre.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">La Vesle borde nos prairies</div> +<div class="i0">Sur sa rive toujours fleurie</div> +<div class="i0">Regne un doux air de bergerie</div> +<div class="i0">Dangereux pour les tendres cœurs.</div> +<div class="i0">Là, qui se sent l'ame attendrie</div> +<div class="i0">S'il craint de l'amour les erreurs</div> +<div class="i0">Doit vite quitter la partie.</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Quittons la donc, mon cher Papa; aussi bien +ai-je seulement oublié de vous montrer la plus +piéce de l'hermitage. C'est un canal superbe. +Il a cent vingt toises de long sur douze de large, +une eau courante et crystalline en rend la surface +toujours brillante, cest la digne embléme +d'un cœur ami, jugez si cette vuë me fait penser +à vous.</p> + +<p>De grands potagers terminent l'enclos de la +maison. Si j'étois méchante je continuerois ma +description, et ne vous ferois pas grace d'une +laitue, mais je me contenteraide vous dire que le +ciel fit sans doute ce canton pour des Etres broutans. +Si les Israëlites en eussent mangé jadis, ils +n'auroient ni regretté l'Egypte ni desiré la terre +promise.</p> + +<p>Voilà mon cher Papa une assez mauvaize esquisse +du pays Courcellois.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">L'air m'en seroit plus doux et le ciel plus serein</div> +<div class="i0">Si quelque jour, moins intraitable</div> +<div class="i0">Et se laissant flechir, le farouche Destin</div> +<div class="i0">Y conduisoit ce <i>trio</i> tant aimable</div> +<div class="i0">Que j'aime, et chérirai sans fin</div> +<div class="i0">Mais las! j'y perds tout mon latin,</div> +<div class="i0">Et ce que de mieux je puis faire</div> +<div class="i0">Est d'espérer et de me taire</div> +</div></div> + +<hr /> + +<p class="noindent">I should have stopt here, and finished +my present correspondence with you by +leaving your mind harmonized with the +above sweet stanzas of <i>Madame des Jardins</i>, +but that it may seem strange, to give a +specimen of one French Lady's literary +talents, without acknowledging, that this +kingdom abounds with many, of infinite +merit.—While England can boast only of +about half a dozen women, who will immortalize +their names by their works, +France can produce half an hundred, admired +throughout Europe, for their wit, +genius, and elegant compositions.—Were +I to recite the names and writings only of +female authors of eminence, which France +has produced, since the time of the first, +and most unfortunate <i>Heloise</i>, who died in +1079, down to <i>Madame Riccoboni</i>, now +living, it would fill a volume. We have, +however, a <span class="smcap">Carter</span>, and a <span class="smcap">Barbauld</span>, +not less celebrated for their learning and +genius than for their private virtues; and +I think it may, with more truth be said of +women, than of men, that the more knowledge, +the more virtue; the more understanding, +the less courage. Why then is +the <i>plume elevated to the head</i>? and what +must the present mode of female education +and manners end in, but in more ignorance, +dissipation, debauchery and luxury? +and, at length, in national ruin. Thus +it was at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, the mistress of the world; +they became fond of the most vicious men, +and such as meant to enslave them, who +corrupted their hearts, by humouring and +gratifying their follies, and encouraging, +on all sides, idleness and dissolute manners, +blinded by <span class="smcap">Cæsar</span>'s complaisance; +from his <i>almsmen</i>, they became his <i>bondmen</i>; +he charmed them in order to enslave +them. When the tragedy of <i>Tereus</i> was +acted at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, <i>Cicero</i> observed, what plaudits +the audience gave with their hands +at some severe strokes in it against tyranny; +but he very justly lamented, that they +employed their hands, <i>only in the Theatre</i>, +not in defending that liberty which they +seemed so fond of.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h3>And now, as <span class="smcap">Bayes</span> says, "let's have +a Dance." ——</h3> + + + +<hr /> +<h3><a name="GENERAL_HINTS" id="GENERAL_HINTS"></a>GENERAL HINTS</h3> + +<h4>TO</h4> + +<h2>STRANGERS</h2> + +<h4>WHO</h4> + +<h3>TRAVEL IN FRANCE.</h3> + + + +<hr /> +<h2>GENERAL HINTS, &c.</h2> + +<p class="center">I.</p> + + +<p>If you travel post, when you approach +the town, or bourg where you intend to +lie, ask the post-boy, which house he recommends +as the best? and never go to +that, if there is any other.—Be previously +informed what other inns there are in the +same place. If you go according to the +post-boy's recommendation, the aubergiste +gives him two or three livres, which he +makes you pay the next morning. I know +but one auberge between <i>Marseilles</i> and +<i>Paris</i>, where this is not a constant practice, +and that is at <i>Vermanton</i>, five leagues +from <i>Auxerre</i>, where every English traveller +will find a decent landlord, <i>Monsieur +Brunier</i>, <i>a St. Nicolas</i>; good entertainment, +and no imposition, and consequently +an inn where no post-boy will drive, if he +can avoid it.</p> + + +<p class="center">II.</p> + +<p>If you take your own horses, they must +be provided with head-pieces, and halters; +the French stables never furnish any +such things; and your servant must take +care that the <i>Garçon d'Ecurie</i> does not +buckle them so tight, that the horses cannot +take a full bite, this being a common +practice, to save hay.</p> + + +<p class="center">III.</p> + +<p>If the <i>Garçon d'Ecurie</i> does not bring +the halters properly rolled up, when he +puts your horses to, he ought to have nothing +given him, because they are so constantly +accustomed to do it, that they cannot +forget it, <i>but in hopes you may too</i>.</p> + + +<p class="center">IV.</p> + +<p>Direct your servant, not only to see +your horses watered, and corn given them, +but to <i>stand by</i> while they eat it: this is +often necessary in England, and always in +France.</p> + + +<p class="center">V.</p> + +<p>If you eat at the <i>table d'Hote</i>, the price +is fixed, and you cannot be imposed upon. +If you eat in your own chamber, and order +your own dinner or supper, it is as necessary +to make a previous bargain with +your host for it, as it would be to bargain +with an itinerant Jew for a gold watch; +the <i>conscience</i> and <i>honour</i> of a <i>French Aubergiste</i>, +and a travelling Jew, are always +to be considered alike; and it is very remarkable, +that the publicans in France, +are the only people who receive strangers +with a cool indifference! and where this +indifference is most shewn, there is most +reason to be cautious.</p> + + +<p class="center">VI.</p> + +<p>Be careful that your sheets are well +aired, otherwise you will find them often, +not only damp, but perfectly wet.—Frenchmen +in general do not consider +wet or damp sheets dangerous, I am sure +French <i>Aubergistes</i> do not.</p> + + +<p class="center">VII.</p> + +<p>Young men who travel into France with +a view of gaining the language, should always +eat at the <i>table d'Hote</i>.—There is +generally at these tables, an officer, or a +priest, and though there may be none but +people of a middling degree, they will shew +every kind of attention and preference to +a stranger.</p> + + +<p class="center">VIII.</p> + +<p>It is necessary to carry your own pillows +with you; in some inns they have them; +but in villages, <i>bourgs</i>, &c. none are to be +had.</p> + + +<p class="center">IX.</p> + +<p>In the wine provinces, at all the <i>table +d'Hotes</i>, they always provide the common +wine, as we do small beer; wine is never +paid for separately, unless it is of a quality +above the <i>vin du Pays</i>; and when you call +for better, know the price <i>before</i> you +drink it.</p> + + +<p class="center">X.</p> + +<p>When fine cambrick handkerchiefs, &c. +are given to be washed, take care they are +not trimmed round two inches narrower, +to make borders to <i>Madame la Blanchisseuse's</i> +night caps: this is a little <i>douceur</i> +which they think themselves entitled to, +from my Lord <i>Anglois</i>, whom they are sure +is <i>tres riche</i>, and consequently ought to be +plundered by the poor.</p> + + +<p class="center">XI.</p> + +<p>Whenever you want honest information, +get it from a French officer, or a priest, +provided they are on the <i>wrong</i> side of forty; +but in general, avoid all acquaintance +with either, on the <i>right</i> side of thirty.</p> + + +<p class="center">XII.</p> + +<p>Where you propose to stay any time, be +very cautious with whom you make an acquaintance, +as there are always a number +of officious forward Frenchmen, and English +adventurers, ready to offer you their +services, from whom you will find it very +difficult to disengage yourself, after you +have found more agreeable company.—Frenchmen +of real fashion, are very circumspect, +and will not <i>fall in love with you</i> +at first sight; but a designing knave will +exercise every species of flattery, in order +to fix himself upon you for his dinner, or +what else he can get, and will be with +you before you are up, and after you are +in bed.</p> + + +<p class="center">XIII.</p> + +<p>Wherever there is any cabinet of curiosities, +medals, pictures, &c. to be seen, +never make any scruple to send a card, desiring +permission to view them; the request +is flattering to a Frenchman, and you will +never be refused; and besides this you will +in all probability thereby gain a valuable +acquaintance.—It is generally men of +sense and philosophy, who make such collections, +and you will find the collector +of them, perhaps, the most pleasing part +of the cabinet.</p> + + +<p class="center">XIV.</p> + +<p>Take it as a maxim, unalterable as the +laws of the Medes and Persians, that whenever +you are invited to a supper at <i>Paris</i>, +<i>Lyons</i>, or any of the great cities, where a +<i>little</i> trifling play commences before supper, +that <span class="smcap">great play</span> is intended after +supper; and that you are the marked pigeon +to be plucked. Always remember +<i>Lord Chesterfield's</i> advice to his son: "If +you play with men, know with <i>whom</i> +you play; if with women, for <i>what</i>:" +and don't think yourself the more secure, +because you see at the same table some of +your own countrymen, though they are +Lords or Ladies; a <i>London</i> gambler would +have no chance in a <i>Parisian</i> party.</p> + + +<p class="center">XV.</p> + +<p>Dress is an essential and most important +consideration with every body in France. +A Frenchman never appears till his hair is +well combed and powdered, however slovenly +he may be in other respects.—Not +being able to submit every day to this ceremony, +the servant to a gentleman of fashion +at whose house I visited in <i>Marseilles</i>, +having forgot my name described me to +his master, as the gentleman whose hair +was <i>toujours mal frise</i>.—Dress is a foolish +thing, says <i>Lord Chesterfield</i>; yet it is a +foolish thing not to be well dressed.</p> + + +<p class="center">XVI.</p> + +<p>You cannot dine, or visit after dinner, +in an undress frock, or without a bag to +your hair; the hair <i>en queue</i>, or a little cape +to your coat, would be considered an unpardonable +liberty. Military men have an +advantage above all others in point of dress, +in France; a regimental or military coat +carries a man with a <i>bonne grace</i> into all +companies, with or without a bag to his +hair; it is of all others the properest dress +for a stranger in France, on many accounts.</p> + + +<p class="center">XVII.</p> + +<p>In France it is not customary to drink to +persons at table, nor to drink wine after +dinner: when the dessert is taken away, so +is the wine;—an excellent custom, and +worthy of being observed by all nations.</p> + + +<p class="center">XVIII.</p> + +<p>It is wrong to be led into any kind of +conversation, but what is absolutely necessary, +with the common, or indeed the +middling class of people in France. They +never fail availing themselves of the least +condescension in a stranger, to ask a number +of impertinent questions, and to conclude, +you answer them civilly, that they +are your equals.—Sentiment and bashfulness +are not to be met with, but among +people of rank in France: to be free and +easy, is the etiquette of the country; and +some kinds of that free and easy manner, +are highly offensive to strangers, and particularly +to a shy Englishman.</p> + + +<p class="center">XIX.</p> + +<p>When well-bred people flatter strangers, +they seldom direct their flattery to +the object they mean to compliment, but +to one of their own country:—As, what a +<i>bonne grace</i> the English have, says one to +the other, in a whisper loud enough to be +heard by the whole company, who all give +a nod of consent; yet in their hearts they +do not love the English of all other nations, +and therefore conclude, that the English +in their hearts do not love them.</p> + + +<p class="center">XX.</p> + +<p>No gentleman, priest, or servant, male +or female, ever gives any notice by knocking +before they enter the bed-chamber, +or apartment of ladies or gentlemen.—The +post-man opens it, to bring your letters; +the capuchin, to ask alms; and the +gentleman to make his visit. There is no +privacy, but by securing your door by a +key or a bolt; and when any of the middling +class of people have got possession of +your apartment, particularly of a stranger, +it is very difficult to get them out.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXI.</p> + +<p>There is not on earth, perhaps, so curious +and inquisitive a people as the lower +class of French: noise seems to be one of +their greatest delights. If a ragged boy +does but beat a drum or sound a trumpet, +he brings all who hear it about him, with +the utmost speed, and most impatient curiosity.—As +my monkey rode postillion, +in a red jacket laced with silver, I was obliged +to make him dismount, when I +passed thro' a town of any size: the people +gathered so rapidly about me at <i>Moret</i>, +three leagues from <i>Fontainbleau</i>, while I +stopped only to buy a loaf, that I verily believe +every man, woman, and child, except +the sick and aged, were paying their respects +to my little groom; all infinitely delighted; +for none offered the least degree +of rudeness.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXII.</p> + +<p>The French never give coffee, tea, or any +refreshment, except upon particular occasions, +to their morning or evening visitors.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXIII.</p> + +<p>When the weather is cold, the fire +small, and a large company, some young +Frenchman shuts the whole circle from receiving +any benefit from it, by placing +himself just before it, laying his sword +genteely over his left knee, and flattering +himself, while all the company wish him +at the devil, that the ladies are admiring +his legs: when he has gratified his vanity, +or is thoroughly warm, he sits down, or +goes, and another takes his place. I have +seen this abominable ill-breeding kept up +by a set of <i>accomplished</i> young fops for two +hours together, in exceeding cold weather. +This custom has been transplanted lately +into England.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXIV.</p> + +<p>Jealousy is scarce known in France; by +the time the first child is born, an indifference +generally takes place: the husband +and wife have their separate acquaintance, +and pursue their separate <i>amusements</i>, +undisturbed by domestic squabbles: when +they meet in the evening, it is with perfect +good humour, and in general, perfect good +breeding.—When an English wife plays +truant, she soon becomes abandoned: it is +not so with the French; they preserve appearances +and proper decorum, because +they are seldom attached to any particular +man. While they are at their toilet, they +receive the visits of their male acquaintance, +and he must be a man of uncommon +discernment, who finds out whom it +is she prefers at that time.—In the southern +parts of France, the women are in +general very <i>free</i> and <i>easy</i> indeed.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXV.</p> + +<p>It is seldom that virgins are seduced in +France; the married women are the objects +of the men of gallantry. The seduction +of a young girl is punished with +death; and when they fall, it is generally +into the arms of their confessor,—and that +is seldom disclosed. Auricular confession +is big with many mischiefs, as well as +much good. Where the penitent and the +confessor happen both to be young, he +makes her confess not only all her sins, +but sinful thoughts, and then, I fear he +knows more than his prudence can absolve +<i>decently</i>, and even when the confessor is old, +the penitent may not be out of danger.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXVI.</p> + +<p>Never ask a Frenchman his age; no +question whatever can be more offensive to +him, nor will he ever give you a direct, +though he may a civil answer.—<i>Lewis</i> +the XVth was always asking every man +about him, his age. A King may take +that liberty, and even then, it always gives +pain.—<i>Lewis</i> the XIVth said to <i>Comte de +Grammont</i>, "<i>Je sais votre age, l'Eveque de +Senlis qui a 84 ans, m'a donne pour epoque, +que vous avez etudie ensemble dans la meme +classe</i>." <i>Cet Eveque, Sire</i>, (replied the +<i>Comte,) n'accuse pas juste, car ni lui, ni moi +n'avons jamais Etudie</i>.—Before I knew +how offensive this question was to a +Frenchman, I have had many equivocal +answers,—such as, <i>O! mon dieu</i>, as old +as the town, or, I thank God, I am in +good health, &c.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXVII.</p> + +<p>A modern French author says, that the +French language is not capable of the <i>jeux +de mots</i>. <i>Les jeux de mots</i>, are not, says he, +in the genius <i>de notre langue, qui est grave, +de serieuse</i>. Perhaps it maybe so; but the +language, and the men, are then so different, +that I thought quite otherwise,—though +the following beautiful specimen +of the seriousness of the language ought, +in some measure; to justify his remark:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i0">Un seul est frappé, & tous sont delivrés,</div> +<div class="i0">Dieu frappe sons fils innocent, pour l'amour</div> +<div class="i0">Des hommes coupables, & pardonne aux hommes</div> +<div class="i0">Coupables, pour l'amour de son fils innocent.</div> +</div></div> + + +<p class="center">XXVIII.</p> + +<p>All English women, as well as women of +other nations, prefer France to their own +country; because in France there is much +less restraint on their actions, than there is, +(should I not say, than there <i>was</i>?) in England. +All Englishmen, however, who have +young and beautiful wives, should, if they +are not indifferent about their conduct, avoid +a trip to <i>Paris</i>, &c. tho' it be but for +"<i>a six weeks tour</i>." She must be good +and wise too, if six weeks does not corrupt +her mind and debauch her morals, and +that too by her own sex, which is infinitely +the most dangerous company. A French +woman is as great an adept at laughing an +English-woman into all contempt of fidelity +to her husband, as married English-women +are in general, in preparing them +during their first pregnancy, for the touch +of a man-midwife,—and both from the +same motive; <i>i.e.</i> to do, as they have done, +and bring all the sex upon a level.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXIX.</p> + +<p>The French will not allow their language +to be so difficult to speak properly, as the +English language; and perhaps they are in +the right; for how often do we meet with +Englishmen who speak French perfectly? +how seldom do we hear a Frenchman speak +English without betraying his country by +his pronunciation? It is not so with the +Spaniards; I conversed with two Spaniards +who were never twenty miles from <i>Barcelona</i>, +that spoke English perfectly well.—How, +for instance, shall a Frenchman who +cannot pronounce the English, be able to +understand, (great as the difference is) +what I mean when I say <i>the sun is an hour +high</i>? May he not equally suppose that I +said <i>the sun is in our eye</i>?</p> + + +<p class="center">XXX.</p> + +<p>When you make an agreement with an +<i>aubergiste</i> where you intend to lie, take +care to include beds, rooms, &c. or he will +charge separately for these articles.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXI.</p> + +<p>After all, it must be confessed, that <i>Mons. +Dessein's a l'Hotel d'Angleterre</i> at <i>Calais</i>, +is not only the first inn strangers of fashion +generally go to, but that it is also the first +and best inn in France. <i>Dessein</i> is the decoy-duck, +and ought to have a salary from +the French government: he is always sure +of a good one from the English.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXII.</p> + +<p>In frontier or garrison towns, where they +have a right to examine your baggage, a +twenty-four <i>sols</i> piece, and assuring the officer +that you are a gentleman, and not a +merchant, will carry you through without +delay.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXIII.</p> + +<p>Those who travel post should, before +they set out, put up in parcels the money +for the number of horses they use for one +post, two posts, and a post <i>et demi</i>, adding +to each parcel, that which is intended to +be given to the driver, or drivers, who are +intitled by the King's ordinance to five +<i>sols</i> a post; and if they behave ill, they +should be given no more; when they are +civil, ten or twelve <i>sols</i> a post is sufficient. +If these packets are not prepared, and +properly marked, the traveller, especially +if he is not well acquainted with the money, +cannot count it out while the horses +are changing, from the number of beggars +which surround the carriage and who will +take no denial.</p> + + +<p class="center">XXXIV.</p> + +<p>People of rank and condition, either going +to, or coming from the continent, by +writing to <span class="smcap">Peter Fector</span>, Esq; at <i>Dover</i>, +will find him a man of property and character, +on whom they may depend.</p> + + +<p class="center">LASTLY,</p> + +<p>Valetudinarians, or men of a certain +age, who travel into the southern parts of +France, Spain, or Italy, should never omit +to wear either a callico or fine flannel waistcoat +under their shirts: strange as it may +seem to say so, this precaution is more +necessary in the south of France, than in +England. In May last it was so hot at <i>Lyons</i>, +on the side of the streets the sun shone +on, and so cold on the shady side, that +both were intolerable. The air is much +more <i>vif</i> and penetrating in hot climates, +than in cold. A dead dog, thrown into +the streets of Madrid at night, will not +have a bit of flesh upon his bones after it +has been exposed to that keen air twenty-four +hours.</p> + +<p class="center">FINIS.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p class="center">List of possible typos and transcriber changes:</p> + +<p>Ltr. 34 para. 2: monnments [monuments?]</p> + +<p>Several inscriptions were blurred or missing in this source. Educated guesses were made in a few cases.</p> + + +<p>Ltr. 36: This is what was visible to the transcriber:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i2"> L DOMIT. DOMITIANI</div> +<div class="i0"> EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM.</div> +<div class="i0"> D PECCO****A VALENTINA M</div> +<div class="i2"> CO*****ENTISSIMA.</div> +</div></div> + +<p>Some characters blurred or missing. The full transcription was +entered from other sources.</p> + +<p>Some of this looks wrong--e.g. the third line should probably begin P F, +rather than PE--but it matches the text as printed.</p> + +<p>Ltr. 52 para. 2: Typo: that [than?]</p> + +<p>Ltr. 54 para. 3: Typo: hundry [hungry?]</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 16994-h.txt or 16994-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/9/9/16994">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/9/9/16994</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume II (of 2) + + +Author: Philip Thicknesse + + + +Release Date: November 4, 2005 [eBook #16994] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE +AND PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)*** + + +E-text prepared by Robert Connal, Leonard Johnson, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/) from +page images generously made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de +France (http://gallica.bnf.fr/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has Volume I of this work. + See https://www.gutenberg.org/etext/16485 + + Images of the original pages are available through the + Bibliotheque nationale de France. See + http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-102009 + + + + + +A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE, AND PART OF SPAIN. + +by + +PHILIP THICKNESSE. + +VOLUME II + + + + + + + +Dublin +Printed by J. Williams, (No. 21.) Skinner-Row. + +M,DCC,LXXVII. + + + + +A + +JOURNEY, &c. + + +LETTER XXXIV. + + +NISMES + +SIR, + +I am very certain that a man may travel twice through Spain, and half +through France, before he sees a woman of so much beauty, elegance, and +breeding, as the mistress of the house I lodge in near this city. I was +directed to the house, and recommended to the lady, as a lodger; but +both were so fine, and superior in all respects to any thing I had seen +out of Paris, that I began to suspect I had been imposed upon. The lady +who received me appeared to be (it was candle-light) about eighteen, a +tall, elegant figure, a beautiful face, and an address inferior to none: +I concluded she was the daughter, till she informed me, that _Mons. +Saigny_, her husband, was gone to _Avignon_. What added, perhaps, to +this lady's beauty in my eyes, or rather ears, was her misfortune,--she +could not speak louder than a gentle whisper. After seeing her sumptuous +apartments, I told her I would not ask what her price was, but tell her +what I could afford only to give; and observed, that as it was winter, +and the snow upon the ground, perhaps she had better take my price than +have none. She instantly took me by the hand and said, she had so much +respect for the English nation, that my price was her's; and with a +still softer whisper, and close to my ear, said, I might come in as soon +as I pleased--"_Quand vous voudrez, Monsieur_," said she. We accordingly +took possession of the finest apartments, and the best beds I ever lay +on. The next day, I saw a genteel stripling about the house, in a white +suit of cloaths, dressed _en militaire_, and began to suspect the virtue +of my fair hostess, not perceiving for some hours that it was my hostess +herself; in the afternoon she made us a visit in this horrid +dress,--(for horrid she appeared in my eyes)--her cloaths were white, +with red cuffs and scarlet _lappels_; and she held in her straddling lap +a large black muff, as big as a porridge-pot. By this visit she lost all +that respect her superlative beauty had so justly entitled her to, and I +determined she should visit me no more in man's apparel. When I went +into the town I mentioned this circumstance, and there I learnt, that +the real wife of _Mons. Saigny_ had parted from him, and that the lady, +my hostess, was his mistress. The next day, however, the master arrived; +and after being full and finely dressed, he made me a visit, and +proffers of every attention in his power: he told me he had injured his +fortune, and that he was not rich; but that he had served in the army, +and was a gentleman: he had been bred a protestant, but had just +embraced the true faith, in order to qualify himself for an employment +about the court of the Pope's _Legate_ at _Avignon_. After many +expressions of regard, he asked me to dine with him the next day; but I +observed that as he was not rich, and as I paid but a small rent in +proportion to his noble apartments, I begged to be excused; but he +pressed it so much, that I was obliged to give him some _other reasons_, +which did not prove very pleasing ones, to the lady below. This fine +lady, however, continued to sell us wood, wine, vinegar, sallad, milk, +and, in short, every thing we wanted, at a very unreasonable price. At +length, my servant, who by agreement made my soup in their kitchen, said +something rude to my landlord, who complained to me, and seemed +satisfied with the reprimand I had given the man; but upon a repetition +of his rudeness, _Mons. Saigny_ so far forgot himself as to speak +equally rude to me: this occasioned some warm words, and so much +ungovernable passion in him, that I was obliged to tell him I must fetch +down my pistols; this he construed into a direct challenge, and +therefore retired to his apartments, wrote a card, and sent it to me +while I was walking before the door with a priest, his friend and +visitor, and in sight of the _little female captain his second_, and all +the servants of the house; on this card was wrote, "_Sir, I accept your +proposition_;" and before I could even read it, he followed his man, who +brought it in the true stile of a butler, rather than a butcher, with a +white napkin under his arm. You may be sure, I was no more disposed to +fight than _Mons. Saigny_; indeed, I told him I would not; but if any +man attacked me on my way to or from the town, where I went every day, I +would certainly defend myself: and fortunately I never met _Mons. +Saigny_ in the fortnight I staid after in his house; for I could not +bear to leave a town where I had two or three very agreeable +acquaintance, and one (_Mons. Seguier_) whose house was filled as full +of natural and artificial curiosities, as his head is with learning and +knowledge. Here too I had an opportunity of often visiting the +Amphitheatre, _the Maison Carree_, (so Mons. Seguier writes it) and the +many remains of Roman monuments so common in and about _Nismes_. I +measured some of the stones under which I passed to make the _tout au +tour_ of the Amphitheatre, they were seventeen feet in length, and two +in thickness; and most of the stones on which the spectators sat within +the area, were twelve feet long, two feet ten inches wide, and one foot +five inches deep; except only those of the sixth row of seats from the +top, and they alone are one foot ten inches deep; probably it was on +that range the people of the highest rank took their seats, not only for +the elevation, but the best situation for sight and security; yet one of +these great stones cannot be considered more, in comparison to the +whole building, than a single brick would be in the construction of +Hampton-Court Palace. When I had the sole possession (and I had it +often) of this vast range of seats, where emperors, empresses, Roman +knights, and matrons, have been so often seated, to see men die wantonly +by the hands of other men, as well as beasts for their amusement, I +could not but with pleasure reflect, how much human nature is softened +since that time; for notwithstanding the powerful prevalency of custom +and fashion, I do not think the ladies of the present age would _plume_ +their towering heads, and curl their _borrowed_ hair, with that glee, to +see men murdered by missive weapons, as to die at their feet by deeper, +tho' less visible wounds. If, however, we have not those cruel sports, +we seem to be up with them in prodigality, and to exceed them in luxury +and licentiousness; for in Rome, not long before the final dissolution +of the state, the candidates for public employments, in spite of the +penal laws to restrain it, _bribed openly_, and were chosen sometimes +_by arms_ as well as money. In the senate, things were conducted no +better; decrees of great consequence were made when very few senators +were present; the laws were violated by private knaves, under the colour +of public necessity; till at length, _Caesar_ seized the sovereign power, +and tho' he was slain, they omitted to recover their liberty, forgetting +that + + "A day, an hour, of virtuous Liberty + Is worth a whole eternity of bondage." + _Addison's_ CATO. + +I can almost think I read in the parallel, which I fear will soon be +drawn between the rise and fall of the British and Roman empire, +something like this;--"Rome had her CICERO; Britain her CAMDEN: Cicero, +who had preserved Rome from the conspiracy of _Catiline_, was banished: +CAMDEN, who would have preserved Britain from a bloody civil war, +removed." The historian will add, probably, that "those who brought +desolation upon their land, did not mean that there should be no +commonwealth, but that right or wrong, they should continue to controul +it: they did not mean to burn the capitol to ashes, but to bear absolute +sway in the capitol:--The result was, however, that though they did not +mean to overthrow the state, yet they risqued all, rather than be +overthrown themselves; and they rather promoted the massacre of their +fellow-citizens, than a reconciliation and union of parties,"--THUS FELL +ROME--Take heed, BRITAIN! + + + + +LETTER XXXV. + +ARLES. + + +I left _Nismes_ reluctantly, having formed there an agreeable and +friendly intimacy with Mr. _D'Oliere_, a young gentleman of Switzerland; +and an edifying, and entertaining acquaintance, with Mons. _Seguier_. I +left too, the best and most sumptuous lodgings I had seen in my whole +tour; but a desire to see _Arles_, _Aix_, and _Marseilles_, &c. got the +better of all. But I set out too soon after the snow and rains, and I +found part of the road so bad, that I wonder how my horse dragged us +through so much clay and dirt. When I gave you some account of the +antiquities of _Nismes_, I did not expect to find _Arles_ a town fraught +with ten times more matter and amusement for an antiquarian; but I found +it not only a fine town now, but that it abounds with an infinite number +of monuments which evince its having once been an almost second Rome. +There still remains enough of the Amphitheatre to convince the beholder +what a noble edifice it was, and to wonder why so little, of so large +and solid a building, remains. The town is built on the banks of the +Rhone, over which, on a bridge of barges, we entered it; but it is +evident, that in former days, the sea came quite up to it, and that it +was a haven for ships of burden; but the sea has retired some leagues +from it, many ages since; beside an hundred strong marks at _this_ day +of its having been a sea-port formerly, the following inscription found +a century or two ago, in the church of _St. Gabriel_, will clearly +confirm it: + + M. FRONTONI EVPOR + IIIIIIVIR AVG. COL. JVLIA. + AVG. AQVIS SEXTIIS NAVICVLAR. + MAR. AREL. CVRAT EJVSD. CORP. + PATRONA NAVTAR DRVENTICORVM. + ET VTRICVLARIORVM. + CORP. ERNAGINENSIUM. + JULIA NICE VXOR. + CONJVGI KARISSIMO. + +Indeed there are many substantial reasons to believe, that it was at +this town _Julius Caesar_ built the twelve gallies, which, from the +cutting of the wood to the time they were employed on service, was but +thirty days.--That it was a very considerable city in the time of the +first Emperors, is past all doubt. _Constantine_ the Great held his +court, and resided at _Arles_, with all his family; and the Empress +_Faustina_ was delivered of a son here (_Constantine_ the younger) and +it was long before so celebrated for an annual fair held in the month of +August, that it was called _le Noble Marche de Gaules_. And _Strabo_, in +his dedication of his book to the Emperor, called it "_Galliarum +Emporium non Parvum_;" which is a proof that it was celebrated for its +rich commerce, &c. five hundred years before it became under the +dominion of the Romans. But were I capable of giving you a particular +description of all the monuments of antiquity in and near this town, it +would compose a little book, instead of a sheet or two of paper. I +shall therefore only pick out a few things which have afforded me the +most entertainment, and I hope may give you a little; but I shall begin +with mentioning what must first give you concern, in saying that in that +part of the town called _la Roquette_, I was shewn the place where +formerly stood an elevated Altar whereon, three young citizens were +sacrificed annually, and who were fattened at the public expence during +a whole year, for the horrid purpose! On the first of May their throats +were cut in the presence of a prodigious multitude of people assembled +from all parts; among whom the blood of the victims was thrown, as they +imagined all their sins were expiated by that barbarous sacrifice; which +horrid practice was put a stop to by the first Bishop of _Arles_, ST. +TROPHIME. The Jews, who had formerly a synagogue in _Arles_, were driven +out in the year 1493, when that and their celebrated School were +demolished. There were found about an hundred after, among the stones +of those buildings some Hebrew characters neatly cut, which were copied +and sent to the Rabbins of Avignon, to be translated, and who explained +them then thus: + + Chodesh: Elvl. Chamescheth, lamech, nav. Nislamv. Bedikoth. + Schradai. + +i.e. they say, + + "In the month of August five thousand and thirty--the Visitation + of God ceased." + +Perhaps the plague had visited them.--There was also another Hebrew +inscription, which was on the tomb of a famous Rabbin called Solomon, +surnamed the grandson of David. + +The Amphitheatre of _Arles_ was of an oval form, composed of three +stages; each stage containing sixty arches; the whole was built of hewn +stone of an immense size, without mortar, and of a prodigious thickness: +the circumference above, exclusive of the projection of the +architecture, was 194 toises three feet, the frontispiece 17 toises +high and the area 71 toises long and 52 wide; the walls were 17 toises +thick, which were pierced round and round with a gallery, for a +convenience of passing in and out of the seats, which would conveniently +contain 30,000 men, allowing each person three feet in depth and two in +width; and yet, there remain at this day only a few arches quite +complete from top to bottom, which are of themselves a noble monument. +Indeed one would be inclined to think that it never had been compleated, +did we not know that the Romans left nothing unfinished of that kind; +and read, that the Emperor _Gallus_ gave some superb spectacles in the +Amphiteatre of _Arles_, and that the same amusements were continued by +following Emperors. Nothing can be a stronger proof than these ruins, of +the certain destruction and corruption of all earthly things; for one +would think that the small parts which now remain of this once mighty +building would, endure as long as the earth itself; but what is very +singular is, that this very Amphitheatre was built upon the ruins of a +more mighty building, and perhaps one of a more substantial structure. +_Tempus edax rerum, tuque invidiosa vetustas omnia destruis_. In the +street called _St. Claude_, stood a triumphal arch which was called +_L'Arche admirable_; it is therefore natural to conclude, that the town +contained many others of less beauty. There are also within the walls +large remains of the palace of _Constantine_. A beautiful antique statue +of _Venus_ was found here also, about an hundred and twenty years +ago.--That a _veritable_ fine woman should set all the beaux and +_connoisseurs_ of a whole town in a flame, I do not much wonder; but you +will be surprized when I tell you that this cold trunk of marble, (for +the arms were never found) put the whole town of _Arles_ together by the +ears; one _Scavant_ said it was the goddess _Diana_, and wrote a book to +prove it; another insisted upon it, that it was the true image of +_Venus_; then starts up an Ecclesiastic, who _you know has nothing to +do with women_, and he pronounced in dogmatical terms, it was neither +one nor the other; at length the wiser magistrates of the town agreed to +send it as a present to their august monarch Lewis the XIVth; and if you +have a mind to see an inanimate woman who has made such a noise in the +world, you will find her at _Versailles_, without any other notice taken +of her or the quarrels about her, than the following words written (I +think) upon her pedestal, _La Venus d'Arles_. This ended the dispute, as +I must my letter. + + + + +LETTER XXXVI. + + +I have not half done with _Arles_. The more I saw and heard in this +town, the more I found was to be seen. The remains of the Roman theatre +here would of itself be a sufficient proof that it was a town of great +riches and importance. Among the refuse of this building they found +several large vases of baked earth, which were open on one side, and +which were fixed properly near the seats of the audience to receive and +convey the sounds of the instruments and voices of the actors distinctly +throughout the theatre, which had forty-eight arches, eleven behind the +scenes of ten feet wide, three grand arches of fourteen feet wide, and +thirty-one of twelve feet; the diameter was thirty-one canes, and the +circumference seventy-nine; and from the infinite number of beautiful +pieces of sculpture, frizes, architraves, pillars of granite, &c. which +have been dug up, it is very evident that this theatre was a most +magnificent building, and perhaps would have stood firm to this day, had +not a Bishop of _Arles_, from a principle of more piety than wisdom, +stript it of the finest ornaments and marble pillars, to adorn the +churches. Near the theatre stood also the famous temple of _Diana_; and, +as the famous statue mentioned in my former letter was found beneath +some noble marble pillars near that spot, it is most likely _La Venus +d'Arles_ is nevertheless the Goddess _Diana_. + +I never wish more for your company than when I walk, (and I walk every +day) in the Elysian fields. The spot is beautiful, the prospect far and +near equally so: in the middle of this ancient _Cimetiere_ stands a +motly building, from the middle of which however rises a cupola, which +at the first view informs you it is the work of a Roman artist; and here +you must, as it were, thread the needle between an infinite number of +Pagan and Christian monuments, lying thick upon the surface in the +utmost disorder and confusion, insomuch, that one would think the Day of +Judgment was arrived and the dead were risen. Neither _Stepney_ +church-yard, nor any one in or near a great city, shew so many +headstones as this spot does stone coffins of an immense size, hewn out +of one piece; the covers of most of which have been broken or removed +sufficiently to search for such things as were usually buried with the +dead. Some of these monuments, and some of the handsomest too, are still +however unviolated. It is very easy to distinguish the Pagan from the +Christian monnments, without opening them, as all the former have the +Roman letters DM (_Diis Manibus_) cut upon them. It is situated, +according to their custom, near the high-way, the water, and the +marshes. You know the ancients preferred such spots for the interment of +the dead. + +The tombs of _Ajax_ and _Hector_, HOMER says, were near the sea, as well +as other heroes of antiquity; for as they considered man to be composed +of earth and water, his bones ought to be laid in one, and near the +other. + +I will now give you a few of the most curious inscriptions; but first I +will mention a noble marble monument, moved from this spot into the +_Cimetiere_ of the great Hospital. This tomb is ornamented with +Cornucopiae, _Paterae_, &c. and in a shield the following inscription: + + CABILIAE D.F. APPRVLLAE FLAM + D DESIGNATAE COL. DEA. AUG. VOC. M + O. ANNOS XIIII, MENS II. DIES V. + MARITVS VXORI PIENTISSIMAE. + POSUIT. + +This poor girl was not only too young to die, but too young to marry, +one would think; I wish therefore her afflicted husband had told us how +many years he had been married to a wife who died at the age of +fourteen, two months, and five days. The cornucopiae, I suppose, were to +signify that this virtuous wife, I was going to say maid, was the source +of all his pleasure and happiness. The _Paterae_ were vases destined to +receive the blood of the victims. + + Supponunt alij cultros, tepidumque cruorem + Suscipiunt Pateris,--_Says the Poet_. + +On each side of the tomb are the symbols of sacrifice. It is very +evident from the fine polish of this monument, that her husband had +obtained the Emperor's particular leave to finish it highly. + +Rogum _ascia ne Polito_ says the law of the twelve tables. + +On another tomb, which is of common stone, in the middle of a shield +supported by two Cupids, is the following inscription: + + M IVNIO MESSIANO + ----VTRICI. CORP. ARELAT. + D EIVS D. CORP. MAG. III. F M + QUI VIXIT ANN. XXVIII. + M. V. D. X. IVNIA VALERIA. + ALVMNO CLARISSIMO. + +The first word of the second line is much obliterated. + + +There are an infinite number of other monuments with inscriptions; but +those above, and this below, will be sufficient for me to convey to you, +and you to my friend at _Winchester_. + + L DOMIT. DOMITIANI + EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM. + D PECCOCEIA VALENTINA M + CONIUGI PIENTISSIMA. + +Before I leave _Arles_, and I leave it reluctantly, whatever you may do, +I must not omit to mention the principal monument, and pride of it, at +this day, i.e. their Obelisque. I will not tell you where nor when it +was dug up; it is sufficient to say, it was found here, that it is a +single piece of granite, sixty-one feet high, and seven feet square +below; yet it was elevated in the Market-place, upon a modern pedestal, +which bears four fulsome complimentary inscriptions to _Lewis_ the XIV. +neither of which will I copy. In elevating this monstrous single stone, +the inhabitants were very adroit: they set it upright in a quarter of an +hour, in the year 1676, just an hundred years ago, amidst an infinite +number of joyful spectators, who are now all laid in their lowly graves; +for though it weighed more than two thousand hundred weight, yet by the +help of capsterns, it was raised without any difficulty. The great King +_Harry_ the IVth had ordered the houses in the arena of the Amphitheatre +to be thrown down, and this obelisk to be fixed in the center of it; but +his death, and _Lewis_'s vanity, fixed it where it now stands; it has +no beauty however to boast of but its age and size, for it bears neither +polish, characters, nor hieroglyphicks, but, as it seems to have been an +Egyptian monument, the inhabitants of _Arles_ have, like those people, +consecrated it below to their King, and above to the sun: on the top is +fixed a globe of azure, sprinkled with _fleurs de lis d'or_, and crowned +with a radiant sun, that is to say, as the sun was made by GOD to +enlighten the world, so LEWIS LE GRAND was made to govern it. + + +I am sure now, you will excuse my mentioning what is said of this great +man _below_; but speaking of light, I must not omit to mention, that +there are men of veracity now living in this town, who affirm, that they +have seen, upon opening some of the ancient monuments here, the eternal +lamps burning. The number of testimonies we have of this kind puts the +matter past a doubt, that a flame has appeared at the lip of these +lamps when first the tombs have been opened; one was found, you know, on +the _Appian_ way, in the tomb of _Cicero_'s daughter, which had burnt +more than seventeen centuries; another at _Padua_, which had burnt eight +hundred years, and which was found hanging between two little phials, +one of gold, the other of silver, which were both quite full of liquor, +extremely clear, as well as many others; but as it is impossible to +believe that flame can exist, and not consume that which feeds it, is it +not more natural to conclude that those lamps, phials, &c. contained a +species of phosphorus, which became luminous upon the first opening of +the tombs and the sudden rushing in of fresh air; and that the reverse +of what is generally supposed is the fact, that they are not +extinguished, but illuminated by the fresh air they receive? I have seen +several of these lamps here and elsewhere, most of which are of baked +earth. It has been said, that there is an oil to be extracted from gold, +which will not consume, and that a wick of _asbestos_ has burnt many +years in this oil, without consumption to either. I have seen a book +written by a German Jesuit, to confirm this fact; so there is authority +for you, if not conviction. + + +As I know your keen appetite after antiquities, I will send you a few +other inscriptions, and leave you to make your own comments; and +_voila_. + + D M + L. HOSTIL. TER. + SILVANI. + ANN. XXIIII. M. II. D. + XV MATER FIL PIJSSIMI + MISERA ET IN LVCIV. + AETERNALI BENIFICI. + O NOVERCAE. + +The following inscription is cut upon a marble column, which stands near +the Jesuits' church: + + SALVIS D.D.N.N. THEODOSIO, ET VALENTINIANO. + P.F.V. AC TRIVM. SEMPER AUG. XV. + CONS. VIR. INL. AUXILIARIS PRAE. + PRAET, GALLIA. DE ARELATE MA, + MILLIARIA PONI. S. + M.P.S. + +In the ancient church of _St. Honore_, which stands in the center of all +these Heathen and Christian monuments, are to be seen nine Bacchanalians +of very ancient workmanship; where also is the tomb of _St. Honore_, +employed as the altar of the church; and beneath the church are +catacombs, where the first Christians retired to prayer during the +persecution by the Emperors, and where is still to be seen their altar +and seven ancient sepulchres, of beautiful marble, and exquisitely +worked; the first is the tomb of _St. Genet_; the second of _St. +Roland_, Archbishop of _Arles_; the third of _St. Concord_, with an +epitaph, and two doves with olive branches in their beaks, cut in bass +relief, and underneath are the two letters X and P; on this tomb is the +miraculous cross seen in the heavens by _Constantine_, who is +represented before it on his knees; and on the cover of this tomb are +the heads of _Constantine_, _Faustina_, and his son; and they say the +Emperor saw this miracle in the heaven from the very _Cimetiere_ in +which this monument stands, i.e. in the year 315; the fifth is the tomb +of _St. Dorothy_, Virgin and Martyr of _Arles_; the sixth _St. Virgil_, +and the seventh _St. Hiliare_, (both Archbishops of _Arles_,) who has +borrowed a Pagan sepulchre, for it is adorned with the principal +divinities of the ancients in bass relief.--It seems odd to see on a +Christian Bishop's tomb _Venus_, and the three Destinies. The people +here say, that this tomb represents human life, as the ancients believed +that each God contributed something towards the being. Be that as it +may, the tomb is a very curious one, and much admired by the +_Connoisseurs_, for its excellent workmanship; but what is more +extraordinary than all these, is, that this catacomb, standing in the +middle of the others, with its cover well and closely fixed, has always +water in it, and often is quite full, and nobody can tell (_but one of +the priests perhaps_) from what source it comes. There is also in this +church the tomb and a long Latin Epitaph of _St. Trophime_, their first +Bishop; but the characters are very Gothic, and the Cs are square, +[Image: E E with no mid bar]; he came here in the year 61, and preached +down that abominable practice of sacrificing three young men annually. +He died in the year 61, at 72 years of age. On the front of the +Metropolitan church of _Arles_, called _St. Trophime_, are the two +following lines, in Gothic characters, cut above a thousand years: + + Cernitur eximius vir Christi Discipulorum, + De Numero Trophimus, hic Septuaginta duorum. + + +This church was built in the year 625, by _St. Virgil_, and is a curious +piece of antiquity within, and particularly without; but I will not +omit to give you one of its singularities within; it is an ancient and +curious inscription in large Gothic letters, near the organ: + + Terrarum Roma Gemina de luce majistrA. + Ros Missus Semper Aderit: velut incola IoseP + Olim Contrito Letheo Contulit OrchO. + +To read this you will see you must take the first letter of each verse: +TRO, _Trophemus_; GAL, _Galliaeorum_; and APO, _Apostolus_. The letter H, +belonging to the word _Joseph_, must be carried to the word _Orcho_, and +the P must stand by itself. + +_Trophimus Galliarum Apostolus, ut ros missus est, ex urbe Romae rerum +Dominae Gemina de luce, scilicet a Petro et Paulo, Ecclesiae luminaribus; +Contrito orcho Letheo, nempe statim post Christi Passionem qua Daemonis & +orchi caput contrivit, semper animos nostras nutriet, cibo illo, divinae +fidei quem nobis contulit: ut alter Joseph qui olim AEgypti populum same +pereuntem liberavit._ + + + + +LETTER XXXVII. + +MARSEILLES. + + +Soon after we left the town of _Arles_, on our way to _Aix_, and this +city, we entered upon a most extraordinary and extensive plain; it is +called the _Crau_, and is a principal and singular domain, belonging to +and situated on the south side of that city; it is ten leagues in +diameter; on which vast extent, scarce a tree, shrub, or verdure is +visible; the whole spot being covered with flint stones of various +sizes, and of singular shapes. _Petrarch_ says, as _Strabo_, and others +have said before him, that those flint stones fell from Heaven like +hail, when _Hercules_ was fighting there against the giants, who, +finding he was likely to be overcome, invoked his father _Jupiter_, who +rained this hard shower of flint stones upon his enemies, which is +confirmed by _AEschylus_. + + "Jupiter Alcidem quando respexit inormem, + Illachrymans, Ligures saxoso perpluit imbre." + +But as this account may not be quite satisfactory to you, who I know +love truth more than fable, I am inclined to think you will consider +_Possidonius_'s manner of accounting for it more feasible: He says, that +it was once a great lake, and having a bed of gravel at the bottom, +those pebble stones, by a succession of ages, have grown to the size +they now appear; but whether stones grow which lie upon the surface of +the earth and out of their proper strata, I must leave you and other +naturalists to determine, without repeating to you what _Aristotle_, and +others, have said upon that subject; and therefore, instead of telling +you either what they say, or I think, I will tell you what I know, which +is, that barren as the _Crau_ appears to be, it not only feeds, but +fattens an infinite number of sheep and cattle, and produces such +excellent wine too in some parts of it, that it is called _Vin de +Crau_, by way of pre-eminence: it has a poignant quality, is very +bright, and is much esteemed for its delicious flavour. The herb which +fattens the sheep and feeds such quantities of cattle is a little plant +which grows between and under the flint stones, which the sheep and +other animals turn up with their feet, to come at the bite; beside +which, there grows a plant on this _Crau_ that bears a vermilion flower, +from which the finest scarlet dye is extracted; it is a little red +grain, about the size of pea, and is gathered in the month of May; it +has been sold for a crown a pound formerly; and a single crop has +produced eleven thousand weight. This berry is the harvest of the poor, +who are permitted to gather it on a certain day, but not till the Lord +of the Manor gives notice by the sound of a horn, according to an +ancient custom and privilege granted originally by King RENE.--On my way +over it, I _gathered_ only a great number of large larks by the help of +my gun, though I did not forget my _Montserrat_ vow: It was a fine day, +and therefore I did not find it so tedious as it must be in winter or +bad weather; for if any thing can be worse than sea, in bad weather, it +must be this vast plain, which is neither land or sea, though not very +distant from the latter, and in all probability was many ages since +covered by the ocean. + +The first town we came to after passing this vast plain, I have forgot +the name of; but it had nothing but its antiquity and a noble and +immense old castle to recommend it, except a transparent agate statue of +the Virgin in the church, as large as the life, with a _tin crown_ upon +her head. Neither the town nor the inhabitants had any thing of the +appearance of French about them; every thing and every body looked so +wild, and the place was in such a ruinous condition, that I could scarce +believe I was not among the Arabs in _Egypt_, or the ruins of +_Persepolis_. Without the town, in a fine beautiful lawn stands a most +irregular high and rude rock, perpendicular on all sides, and under one +side of it are ruins of a house, which I suppose was inhabited by the +first _Seigneur_ in the province. I looked in, and found the ruins full +of miserable inhabitants, I fancy many families; but it exhibited such a +scene of woe, that I was glad to get out again; and upon inquiry, I +found it had been in that state ever since it had been used as an +hospital during the last plague. + + + + +LETTER XXXVIII. + +MARSEILLES. + + +As the good and evil, which fall within the line of a road, as well as a +worldly traveller, are by comparison, I need not say what a heavenly +country _France_ (with all its untoward circumstances) appeared to us +_after_ having journeyed in _Spain_: what would have put me out of +temper before, became now a consolation. _How glad I should I have been, +and how perfectly content, had it been thus in Spain_, was always +uppermost, when things ran a little cross in France. + +Travellers and strangers in France, in a long journey perhaps, have no +connection with any people, but such who have a design upon their purse. +At every _Auberge_ some officious coxcomb lies in wait to ensnare them, +and under one pretence or other, introduces himself; he will offer to +shew you the town; if you accept it, you are saddled with an impertinent +visiter the whole time you stay; if you refuse it, he is affronted; so +let him; for no gentleman ever does that without an easy or natural +introduction; and then, if they are men of a certain age, their +acquaintance is agreeable and useful. An under-bred Frenchman is the +most offensive civil thing in the world: a well-bred Frenchman, quite +the reverse.--Having dined at the table of a person of fashion at _Aix_, +a pert priest, one the company, asked me many questions relative to the +customs and manners of the English nation; and among other things, I +explained to him the elegance in which the tables of people of the first +fashion were served; and told him, that when any one changed his dish, +that his plate, knife and fork, were changed also, and that they were as +perfectly bright and clean as the day they came from the silver-smith's +shop. After a little pause, and a significant sneer,--Pray Sir, (said +he) and do you not change your napkins also? I was piqued a little, and +told him we did not, but that indeed I had made a little mistake, which +I would rectify, which was, that though I had told him the plate, knife, +and fork, were so frequently changed at genteel tables in England, there +was one exception to it; for it sometimes happened that low under-bred +priests (especially on a Sunday) were necessarily admitted to the tables +of people of fashion, and that the butler sometimes left them to wipe +their knife upon their bread, as I had often seen _Lewis_ the Fifteenth +do, even after eating fish with it.--As it was on a Sunday I had met +with this fop of divinity, at a genteel table, I thought I had been even +with him, and I believe he thought so too, for he asked me no more +questions; yet he assured me at his going out, "_he had the honour to be +my most obedient humble servant_." This over-strained civility, so +unlike good-breeding, puts me in mind of what was said of poor Sir WM. +ST. Q----N, after his death, by an arch wag at _Bath_: Sir William, you +know, was a polite old gentleman, but had the manners and breeding +rather of the late, than the present age, and though a man deservedly +esteemed for his many virtues, was by some thought too ceremonious. +Somebody at the round table at _Morgan_'s Coffee-house happened to say, +alas! poor Sir William! he is gone; but he was a good man, and is surely +gone to Heaven, and I can tell you what he said when he first entered +the holy gates! the interrogation followed of course: Why, said he, +seeing a large concourse of departed souls, and not a soul that he knew, +he bowed to the right and left, said he begged pardon,--he feared he was +troublesome, and if so, he would instantly retire.--So the Frenchman, +when he says he would cut himself in four pieces to serve you, only +means to be very civil, and he will be so, if it does not put him to +any expence. + +_Aix_ is a well built city; the principal street called the _Course_, is +very long, very broad, and shaded by stately trees; in the middle of it +are four or five fountains, constantly running, one of which is of very +hot water, at which man and beast are constantly drinking. The city +abounds with a great deal of good company, drawn to it from all parts of +Europe by the efficacy of the waters, and to examine its antiquities, +for it has in and about it many Greek as well as Roman monuments. + +Some part of the country between _Aix_ and this populous city is very +beautiful, but near the town scarce any vegetation is seen; on all sides +high hills and broken rocks present themselves; and one wonders how a +city so large and so astonishingly populous is supported. When I first +approached the entrance gate, it opened a perspective view of the +_Course_, a street of great extent, where the heads of the people were +so thick together, that I concluded it was a FAIR day, and that the +whole country was collected together; but I found it was every day the +same. I saw a prodigious quantity of game and provisions of all kinds, +not only in the shops, but in the streets, and concluded it was not only +a cheap, but a plentiful country; but I soon found my mistake, it was +the evening before Lent commenced, and I could find no provisions of any +kind very easily afterwards, and every thing very dear. You may imagine +the price of provisions at _Marseilles_ when I tell you that they have +their poultry from _Lyons_; it is however a noble city, crouded with men +of all nations, walking in the streets in the proper habits of their +country. The harbour is the most secure sea-port in Europe, being +land-locked on all sides, except at a verry narrow entrance; and as +there is very little rise or fall of water, the vessels are always +afloat. Many of the galley slaves have little shops near the spot where +the galleys are moored, and appear happy and decently dressed; some of +them are rich, and make annual remittances to their friends. In the +_Hotel de Ville_ are two fine large pictures, which were taken lately +from the Jesuits' college; one represents the dreadful scenes which were +seen in the _Grand Course_ during the great plague at _Marseilles_; the +other, the same sad scene on the Quay, before the doors of the house in +which it now hangs. A person cannot look upon these pictures one minute +before he becomes enthralled in the woes which every way present +themselves. You see the good Bishop confessing the sick, the carts +carrying out the dead, children sucking at the breasts of their dead +mothers, wives and husbands bewailing, dead bodies lowering out of the +higher windows by cords, the slaves plundering, the Priests exhorting, +and such a variety of interesting and afflicting scenes so forcibly +struck out by the painter, that you seem to hear the groans, weepings, +and bewailings, from the dying, the sick and the sound; and the eye and +mind have no other repose on these pictures but by fixing it on a dead +body. The painter, who was upon the spot, has introduced his own figure, +but armed like a serjeant with a halberd. The pictures are indeed +dreadfully fine; one is much larger than the other; and it is said the +town Magistrates cut it to fit the place it is in; but it is impossible +to believe any body of men could be guilty of such an act of +_barbarism_! There is still standing in this town, the house of a Roman +senator, now inhabited by a shoe-maker. In the cathedral they have a +marble-stone, on which there is engraved, in Arabic characters, a +monumental inscription to the following effect: + + "GOD is alone permanent. + This is the Sepulchre of his servant and Martyr, + who having placed his confidence in the Most + High, he trusts that his sins will be forgiven." + + JOSEPH, son of ABDALLAH, of the town of _Metelin_, + died in the moon _Zilhage_. + + +I bought here an Egyptian household _God_, or _Lar_ of solid metal, +which was lately dug up near the city walls; it is about nine inches +high, and weighs about five pounds. Several of the hieroglyphic +characters are visible on the breast and back, and its form is that of +an embalmed mummy. By a wholesome law of this city, the richest citizen +must be buried like the poorest, in a coffin of nine livres value, and +that coffin must be bought at the general Hospital. The sale of these +coffins for the dead, goes a great way towards the support of the poor +and the sick. + +At this town I experienced the very reverse in every respect of what I +met with at _Barcelona_, though I had no better recommendation to Mr. +BIRBECK, his Britannick Majesty's Agent here, than I had to the Consul +of _Barcelona_; he took my word, at first sight, nay, he took my notes +and gave me money for them, and shewed me and my family many marks of +friendly attention: Such a man, at such a distance from ones own +country, is a cordial to a troubled breast, and an acquisition to every +Englishman who goes there either for health or curiosity. Mr. _Birbeck_ +took me with him to a noble Concert, to which he is an annual +subscriber, and which was performed in a room in every respect suitable +to so large a band, and so brilliant an assembly: He and his good wife +were the only two British faces I had seen for many months, who looked +like Britons. I shall, indeed I must, soon leave this town, and shall +take _Avignon_ on my way to _Lyons_, from whence you shall soon hear +from me again. + +I had forgot to mention, when I was speaking of _Montpellier_, that the +first gentry are strongly impressed with the notion of the superiority +of the English, in every part of philosophy, more especially in the +science of physic; and I found at _Montpellier_, that these sentiments +so favourable to our countrymen, had been much increased by the +extraordinary knowledge and abilities of Dr. MILMAN, an English +physician, who resided there during the winter 1775. This gentleman, who +is one of Doctor RADCLIFFE'S travelling physicians, had performed +several very astonishing cures, in cases which the French Physicians had +long treated without success: And indeed the French physicians, however +checked by interest or envy, were obliged to acknowledge this +gentleman's uncommon sagacity in the treatment of diseases. What I say +of this ingenious traveller, is for your sake more than his; for I know +nothing more of him than the fame he has left behind him at +_Montpellier_, and which I doubt not will soon be verified by his deeds +among his own countrymen. + + + + +LETTER XXXIX. + +AVIGNON. + + +There is no dependence on what travellers say of different towns and +places they have visited, and therefore you must not lay too much stress +upon what I say. A Lady of fashion, who had travelled all over France, +gave the preference to the town I wrote last to you from (_Marseilles_); +to me, the climate excepted, it is of all others the most disagreeable; +yet that Lady did not mean to deceive; but people often prefer the town +for the sake of the company they find, or some particular or local +circumstance that attended their residence in it; in that respect, I too +left it reluctantly, having met with much civility and some old friends +there; but surely, exclusive of its fine harbour, and favourable +situation for trade, it has little else to recommend it, but riot, mob, +and confusion; provisions are very dear, and not very good. + +On our road here we came again through _Aix_. The _Mule blanche_ without +the town, is better than any auberge within, and Mons. _L'Abbe Abrard +Praetor, de la ordre de St. Malta_, is not only a very agreeable, but a +very convenient acquaintance for a stranger, and who is always ready to +shew the English in particular, attention, and who had much attention +shewn him by Lord A. PERCY and his Lady. + +From _Aix_ we passed through _Lambresque_, _Orgon_, and _Sencage_, a +fine country, full of almond trees, and which were in full blossom on +the 7th of March. At _Orgon_ the post-house was so bad, that after my +horse was in the stable, I was obliged to put him to, and remove to the +_Soleil d'Or_, without the town, and made a good move too. The situation +of _Notre Dame de St. Piere_, a convent on a high hill, is worthy of +notice, and the antiquity of the town also.--Five leagues from _Orgon_ +we crossed a very aukward passage in a ferry-boat, and were landed in +the Pope's territories, about five miles from _Avignon_. The castle, and +higher part of the town, were visible, rising up in the middle of a vast +plain, fertile and beautiful as possible. If we were charmed with the +distant view, we were much more so upon a nearer approach; nothing can +be more pleasing than the well-planted, and consequently well-shaded +coach and foot roads all round this pretty little city; all shut in with +the most beautiful ancient fortification walls I ever beheld, and all in +perfect repair; nor were we asked any questions by the Pope's soldiers, +or Custom-house Officers. I had a letter to Dr. POWER, an English +Physician in this town, who received me with great civity, and made me +known to LORD MOUNTGARRET, and Mr. BUTLER, his son, with whom I had the +honour to spend some very agreeable hours: his Lordship has an +excellent house here, and keeps a table, truly characteristic of the +hospitality of his own country.--And now I cannot help telling you of a +singular disorder which attacked me the very day I arrived; and the +still more singular manner I got well: the day before I arrived, we had +been almost blown along the road to _Orgon_ by a most violent wind; but +I did not perceive that I had received any cold or injury from it, till +we arrived here, and then, I had such an external soreness from head to +foot, that I almost dreaded to walk or stir, and when I did, it was as +slow as my feet could move; after continuing so for some days, I was +much urged to dine with Lord MOUNTGARRET, on St. Patrick's day; I did +so, and by drinking a little more than ordinary, set nature to work, +who, without any other Doctor, did the business, by two or three nights' +copious sweats. I would not have mentioned this circumstance, but it may +be the _mal du pais_, and ought to be mentioned for the _method of +cure_. + +There was not quite so good an understanding between the Pope's +_Legate_ and the English residing here, as could be wished; some +untoward circumstance had happened, and there seemed to be faults on +both sides; it was carried, I think, to such a length, that when the +English met him, they did not pull off their hats; but as it happened +before I came, and as in our walks and rides we often met him airing in +his coach, we paid that respect which is everywhere due to a first +magistrate, and he took great pains to return it most graciously; his +livery, guards, &c. make a very splendid appearance: he holds a court, +and is levee'd every Sunday, though not liked by the French. At the +church of St. _Didier_, in a little chapel, of mean workmanship, is the +tomb of the celebrated _Laura_, whose name _Petrarch_ has rendered +immortal; the general opinion is, that she died a virgin; but it appears +by her tomb, that she was the wife of _Hugues de Sade_, and that she +had many children. About two hundred years after her death, some curious +people got permission to open her tomb, in which they found a little +box, containing some verses written by _Petrarch_, and a medallion of +lead, on one side of which was a Lady's head and on the reverse, the +four following letters, M.L.M.E. + +_Francis_ the First, passing thro' _Avignon_, visited this tomb, and +left upon it the following epitaph, of his own composition: + + "En petit lien compris vous pouvez voir + Ce qui comprend beaucoup par renommee + Plume, labour le langue & le devoir + Furent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aimee + O gentille ame, etant tant estimee + Qui le pourra louer quen se laissant? + Car la parole est toujours reprimee + Quand le sujet surmonte le disant." + +This town is crowded with convents and churches. The convent of the +_Celestines_, founded by _Charles_ the VIth, is richly endowed, and has +noble gardens: there are not above fourteen or fifteen members, and +their revenue is near two thousand pounds sterling a year. In their +church is a very superb monument of Pope _Clement_ the VIIth, who died +here in the year 1394, as a long Latin inscription upon it announces. +They shew in this house a picture, painted by King _Renee_; it +represents the frightful remains of his beloved mistress, whose body he +took out of the grave, and painted it in the state he then found it, +i.e. with the worms crawling about it: it is a hideous figure, and +hideously painted; the stone coffin stands on a line with the figure, +but is above a foot too short for the body; and on the other side is a +long scrole of verses, written in Gothic characters, which begin thus: + + "_Une fois fus sur toutes femmes belle + Mais par la mort suis devenue telle + Machair estoit tres-belle fraische & tendre + O'r est elle toute tournee en cendre._" + +There follow at least forty other such lines. + +There is also in this convent, a fine monument, on which stands the +effigies of _St. Benezet_, a shepherd of _Avignon_, who built (they say) +the bridge from the town over the Rhone, in consequence of a dream, in +the year 1127: some of the noble arches are still standing, and part of +a very pretty chapel on it, nearly in the middle of the river; but a +great part of the bridge has been carried away, many years since, by the +violence of the river, which often not only overflows its banks, but the +lower part of the town. In 1755, it rose seventeen feet higher than its +usual flowing, and I saw marks in many of the streets, high above my +head, against the sides of houses, which it had risen to; but with all +my industry, I could find no _mark upon the house where Lady Mary +Wortley Montagu dwelt_, though she resided some time here, and though I +endeavoured to find it. + +I need not describe the celebrated fountain of _Vaucluse_, near this +town, where _Petrarque_ composed his works, and established Mount +Parnassus. This is the only part of France in which there is an +Inquisition, but the Officers seem content with their profits and +honours, without the power. + +One part of the town is allotted to the Jews, where about six or seven +hundred live peaceably and have their synagogue; and it was here the +famous rabbin _Joseph Meir_ was born; he died in the year 1554; he was +author, you know, of _Annals des Rois de France_, and _de la Maison +Ottomane_. + +Not far from _Avignon_, on the banks of the same rapid river, stands +_Beaucaire_, famous for its annual FAIR, where merchandize is brought +from all parts of Europe, free of all duties: it begins on the 22d of +July; and it is computed that eight million of livres are annually +expended there in eight days. _Avignon_ is remarkable for the No. Seven, +having seven ports, seven parishes, seven colleges, seven hospitals, +and seven monasteries; and I may add, I think, seven hundred bells, +which are always making a horrid jingle, for they have no idea of +ringing bells harmoniously in any part of France. + + + + +LETTER XL. + +LYONS. + + +After a month's residence at _Avignon_, where I waited till the weather +and roads amongst the high _Dauphine_ mountains were both improved, I +sat out for this city. I had, you know, outward bound, dropt down to +_Port St. Esprit_ by water, so it was a new scene to us by land, and I +assure you it was a fine one; the vast and extensive rich vales, adorned +on all sides with such romantic mountains, could not be otherwise, in +such a climate. Our first stage was only four leagues to _Orange_; this +is the last town in the Pope's territories; and within a quarter of a +mile of it stands, in a corn field, a beautiful Roman triumphal arch, so +great in _ruins_, that it would be an ornament even in Rome. The _Palais +Royal_ at this town, has nothing to recommend it, but that it affords a +prospect of this rich morsel of antiquity. + +From _Orange_ we passed through _Pierlaite, Donzeir_, and several +smaller towns, and we lay one night at a single house, but an excellent +auberge, called _Souce_, kept by an understanding sensible host. + +At a little village called _A'tang_, on the banks of the Rhone, we +stopped a day or two, to enjoy the sweet situation. Just opposite to it, +on the other side of the river, stands a large town, (_Tournau_,) which +added to the beauty of our village, over which hangs a very high +mountain, from whence the best Hermitage wine is collected: I suppose it +is called _Hermitage_, from a Hermit's cell on the top of it; but so +unlike the _Montserrat_ Hermitages, that I contented myself with only +tasting the Hermit's wine; it was so good indeed, that though I did not +see how it was possible to get it safe to the north side of France, I +could not withstand the temptation of buying a cask, for which I was to +pay twelve guineas, and did pay one as earnest, to a very sensible, and +I believe honest and opulent wine merchant, who, however, made me a +present of two bottles when I came away, almost worth my guinea; it is +three livres a bottle on the spot; and he shewed me orders he had +received from men of fashion in England, for wine; among which was one +from Mr. _Ryder_, Sir _Dudley Ryder_'s son I fancy, who, I found, was +well satisfied with his former dealings. Do you know that Claret is +greatly improved by a mixture of Hermitage, and that the best Claret we +have in England is generally so _adulterated_? + +The next towns we passed were _Pevige_ and _Vienne_, the latter only +five leagues from this city. It is a very ancient town, and was formerly +a Roman colony. The cathedral is a large and noble Gothic structure, and +in it is a fine tomb of Cardinal _Mountmoin_, said to be equal in +workmanship to _Richlieu_'s in the _Sorbonne_, but said to be so, by +people no ways qualified to judge properly; it is indeed an expensive +but a miserable performance, when put in competition with the works of +_Girrardeau_. About half a mile without the town is a noble pyramidal +Roman monument, said to have stood in the center of the Market-place, in +the time of the Romans. There is also to be seen in this town, a Mosaic +pavement discovered only a few years since, wonderfully beautiful +indeed, and near ten feet square, though not quite perfect, being broken +in the night by some malicious people, out of mere wantonness, soon +after it was discovered. + +At this town I was recommended to the _Table Round_; but as there are +two, the _grande_ and the _petit_, I must recommend you to the _petit_ +where I was obliged to move; for, of all the dreadful women I ever came +near, Madam _Rousillion_ has the _least mellifluous_ notes; her ill +behaviour, however, procured me the honour of a very agreeable +acquaintance, the _Marquis DeValan_, who made me ashamed, by shewing us +an attention we had no right to expect; but this is one, among many +other agreeable circumstances, which attend strangers travelling in +France. French gentlemen never see strangers ill treated, without +standing forth in their defence; and I hope English gentlemen will +follow their example, because it is a piece of justice due to strangers, +in whatever country they are, or whatever country they are from; it is +doing as one would be done by. That prejudice which prevails in England, +even among some people of fashion, against the French nation is +illiberal, in the highest degree; nay, it is more, it is a national +disgrace.--When I recollect with what ease and uninterruption I have +passed through so many great and little towns, and extensive provinces, +without a symptom of wanton rudeness being offered me, I blush to think +how a Frenchman, if he made no better figure than I did, would have +been treated in a tour through Britain.--My Monkey, with a pair of +French jack boots, and his hair _en queue_, rode postillion upon my +sturdy horse some hours every day; such a sight, you may be sure, +brought forth old and young, sick and lame, to look at him and his +master. _Jocko_ put whole towns in motion, but never brought any affront +on his master; they came to look and to laugh, but not to deride or +insult. The post-boys, it is true, did not like to see their fraternity +_taken off_, in my _little Theatre_; but they seldom discovered it, but +by a grave salutation; and sometimes a good humoured fellow called him +comrade, and made _Jocko_ a bow; they could not laugh at his bad seat, +for not one of them rode with more ease; or had a handsomer laced +jacket. Mr. _Buffon_ says, the Monkey or _Maggot_, (and mine is the +latter, for he has no tail) make their grimace or chattering equally to +shew their anger or to make known their appetite. With all due deference +to this great naturalist, I must beg leave to say, that his observation +is not quite just; there is as much difference between the grimace of my +_Jocko_, when he is angry or hungry, and when he grins to shew delight, +as there is in a man, when he gnashes his teeth in wrath, or laughs from +mirth. + +Between _Avignon_ and this town I met a dancing bear, mounted by a +_Maggot_: as it was upon the high road, I desired leave to present +_Jocko_ to his grandfather, for so he appeared both in age and size; the +interview, though they were both males, was very affecting; never did a +father receive a long-lost child with more seeming affection than the +_old gentleman_ did my _Jocko_; he embraced him with every degree of +tenderness imaginable, while the _young gentleman_ (like other young +gentlemen of the present age) betrayed a perfect indifference. In my +conscience I believe it, there was some consanguinity between them, or +the reception would have proved more mutual. Between you and me, I +fear, were I to return to England, I might find myself a sad party in +such an interview. It is a sad reflection; but perhaps Providence may +wisely ordain such things, in order as men grow older, to wean them from +the objects of their worldly affections, that they may resign more +readily to the decree of fate. That good man, Dr. ARBUTHNOT, did not +seem to dread the approach of death on his own account, so much as from +the grievous affliction HE had reason to fear it would bring upon his +children and family. + + + + +LETTER XLI. + +LYONS, + +_The Harangue of the_ Emperor CLAUDIUS, _in the_ SENATE. _Copied from +the original Bronze plate in the Hotel de Ville, of_ Lyons. + + +FIRST TABLE. + +MOERERUM . NOSTR ::::: SII ::::::::: Equidem . primam . omnium . illam +. cogitationem . hominum . quam . maxime . primam . occursuram . mihi . +provideo . deprecor . ne . quasi . novam . istam . rem . introduci . +exhorrescatis . sed . illa . potius . cogitetis . quam . multa . in . +hac . civitate . novata . sint . et . quidem . statim . ab . origine . +vrbis . nostrae . in . quod . formas . statusque . res . P . nostra . +diducta . sit. + +Quandam . reges . hanc . tenuere . vrbem . nec tamen . domesticis . +successoribus . eam . tradere . contigit . supervenere . alieni . et . +quidam . externi . vt . Numa . Romulo . successerit . ex. Sabinis . +veniens . vicinus . quidem . se . tunc. + +Sed . tunc . externus . ut . Anco . Marcio . Priscus . Tarquinius . +propter . temeratum . sanguinem . quod . Patre . Demaratho . Corinthio . +natus . erat . et . Tarquiniensi . Matre . generoso . sed . inopi . ut . +quae . tali . marito . necesse . habuerit . succumbere . cum . domi . +repelleretur. A . gerendis . honoribus . postquam . Roman . migravit . +regnum . adeptus . est . huic . quoque . et . filio . nepotive . ejus . +nam . et . hoc . inter . auctores . discrepat . insertus . Servius . +Tullius . si . nostros . sequimur . captiva . natus . ocresia . si . +tuscos . coeli . quandam . vivennae . sodalis . fidelissimus . omnisque +. ejus . casus . comes . post . quam . varia . fortuna . exactus . cum . +omnibus . reliquis . caeliani . exercitus . Etruria . excepit . mentem . +caelium . occupavit . et . a . duce . suo . caelio . ita . appellitatus . +mutatoque . nomine . nam . Tusce . mostrana . ei . nomen . erat . ita . +appellatus . est . ut . dixi . et . regnum . summa . cum . rei . p . +utilitate . optinuit . deinde . postquam . Tarquini . superbi . mores . +invisi . civitati . nostrae . esse . coeperunt . qua . ipsius . qua . +filiorum . ejus . nempe . pertaesum . est . mentes . regni . et . +ad.consules. + +Annuos . magistratus . administratio . rei . p . translata . est . quid +. nunc . commemorem . dictatu . valentius . repertum . apud . majores . +nostros . quo . in . asperioribus . bellis . aut . in . civili . motu . +difficiliore . uterentur . aut . in . auxilium . plebis . creatos . +tribunos . plebei . quid . a . latum . imperium . solutoque . postea . +Decemvirali . regno . ad . consules . rursus . reditum . quid . +indecoris . distributum . consulare . imperium . tribunosque . militum . +consulari . imperio . appellatos . qui . seni . et . saepe . octoni . +crearentur . quid . communicatos . postremo . cum . plebe . honores . +non . imperi . solum . sed . sacerdotiorum . quoque . jam . si . narrem +. bella p . quibus . coeperint . majores . nostri . et . quo . +processerimus . vereor . ne . nimio . insolentior . esse . videar . et . +quaesisse . jactationem . gloria . prolati . imperi . ultra . oceanum . +sed . illoc . potius . revertor . civitatem. + + +SECOND TABLE. + +:::::::::::::::::: SANE ::: NOVO :: DIVVS :: AUG ::: LVS. et . Patruus . +Ti . Caesar . omnem . florem . ubisque . coloniarum . ac . municipiorum +. bonorum . scilicet . virorum . et . locupletium . in . hac curia . +esse . voluit . quid . ergo . non . Italicus . senator . Provinciali . +potior . est . jam . vobis . cum . hanc . partem . censurae . meae . ad . +probare . coepero . quid . de . ea . re . sentiam . rebus . ostendam . +sed . ne . provinciales . quidem . si . modo . ornare . curiam . +poterint . rejiciendos . puto. + +Ornatissimae . ecce . colonia . volentissimaque Viennensium . quam . +longo . jam . tempore . senatores . huic . curiae . confert . ex . qua . +colonia . inter . paucas . equestris . ordinis . ornamentum L . vestinum +. familiarissime . diligo . et . hodieque . in . rebus . meis . detineo +. cujus . liberi . tiorum . gradu . post . modo . cum . annis . +promoturi . dignitatis . suae . incrementa . ut . dirum . nomen . +latronis . taceam . et . odi . illud . palaestricum . prodigium . quod . +ante . in . domum . consulatum . intulit . quam . colonia . sua . +solidum civitatis . Romanae . beneficium . consecuta . est idem . de . +patre . ejus . possum . dicere . miserabili . quidem . invtilis . +senator . esse . non . possit tempus . est . jam . ri . CAESAR . +Germanice . detegere . te . patribus . conscriptis . quo . tendat . +oratio . tua . jam . enim . ad . extremos . fines . Galliae . Narbonensis +. venisti. + +Tot . ecce . insignes . juvenes . quot . intuetor . non . magis . sunt . +poenitendi . senatores . quam . aenitet . Persicum . nobilissimum . +virum . amicum . meum . inter . imagines . majorum . suorum . +Allobrogici . nomen . legere . quod . SL . haec . ita . esse . +consentitis . quid . ultra . desideratis . quam . ut . vobis . digito . +demonstrem . solum . ipsum . ultra . fines . provinciae . Narbonensis . +jam . vobis . senatores . mittere . quando . ex . Luguduno . habere . +nos . nostri . ordinis . viros . non . poenitet . timide . quidem . P +. C . vobis . provinciarum . terminos . sum . sed . destricte . jam . +comatae . Galliae . causa . argenda . est . in . qua . si . quis . hoc . +intuetur . quod . bello . per . decem . anno . exercuerunt . divom . +Julium . diem . opponat . centum . armorum . immobilem . fidem . +obsequiumque . multis . trepidis . rebus . nostris . plusquam . expertum +. illi . patri . meo . druso . Germaniam . subi . genti . tutam . quiete +. sua . securamque . a . tergo . pacem . praestiterunt . et . quidem . +cum . AD . census . novo . tum . opere . et in . adsueto . gallis . ad . +bellum . avocatus . esset . quod . opus . quam . arduum . sit . nobis . +nunc . maxime . quam . vis . nihil . ultra . quam . ut . publice . notae +. sint . facultates . nostrae . exquiratur . nimis . magno . experimento +. cognoscimus. + +The above harangue, made by CLAUDIUS, in favor of the LYONOISE, and +which he pronounced in the Senate, is the only remains of the works of +this Emperor, though he composed many. _Suetonius_ says he composed +forty-three books of a history, and left eight compleat of his own life; +and adds, that he wrote more elegantly than judiciously. + + + + +LETTER XLII. + +LYONS. + + +I have now spent a month in my second visit to this great and +flourishing city, and fortunately took lodgings in a _Hotel_, where I +found the lady and sister of _Mons. Le Marquis De Valan_, whose +politeness to us I mentioned in a former letter at _Vienne_, and by +whose favour I have had an opportunity of seeing more, and being better +informed, than I could have been without so respectable an acquaintance. +At _Vienne_ I only knew his rank, here I became acquainted with his good +character, and fortune, which is very considerable in _Dauphine_, where +he has two or three fine seats. His Lady came to _Lyons_ to lye-in, +attended by the Marquis's sister, a _Chanoinesse_, a most agreeable +sensible woman, of a certain age; but the Countess is young and +beautiful. + +You may imagine that, after what I said of _Lyons_, on my way _to_ +Spain, I did not associate much with my own country-folks. On my return, +indeed, my principal amusement was to see as much as I could, in a town +where so much is to be seen; and in relating to you what I have seen, I +will begin with the _Hotel De Ville_; if it had not that name, I should +have called it a Palace, for there are few palaces so large or so noble; +on the first entrance of which, in the vestibule, you see, fixed in the +wall, a large plate of Bronze, bearing stronger marks of fire than of +age; on which were engraven, seventeen hundred years ago, two harangues +made by the Emperor _Claudius_ in the senate, in favour of the +_Lyonoise_, and which are not only legible at this day, but all the +letters are sharp and well executed; the plate indeed is broke quite +through the middle, but fortunately the fraction runs between the first +and second harangues, so as to have done but little injury among the +the letters. As I do not know whether you ever saw a copy of it, I +inclose it to you, and desire you will send it as an agreeable exercise, +to be well translated by my friend at Oxford. + +On the other side of the vestibule is a noble stair-case, on which is +well painted the destruction of the city, by so dreadful a fire in the +time of the Romans, that _Seneca_, who gives an account of it in a +letter to his friend, says, + + "_Una nox fuit inter urbem maximam et nullum._" + + i.e. One night only intervened between a great city and nothing. + +There is something awful in this scene, to see on one side of the +stair-case the conflagration well executed; on the other, strong marks +of the very fire which burnt so many ages ago; for there can be no +doubt, but that the Bronze plate then stood in the _Roman Hotel de +Ville_, and was burnt down with it, because it was dug up among the +refuse of the old city on the mountain called _Fourvire_, on the other +side of the river, where the original city was built.--In cutting the +letters on this large plate of Bronze, they have, to gain room, made no +distance between the words, but shewn the division only by a little +touch thus < with the graver; and where a word eroded with a C, or G, +they have put the touch within the concavity of the letter, otherwise it +is admirably well executed. + +Upon entering into the long gallery above stairs, you are shewn the late +King and Queen's pictures at full length, surrounded with the heads of +some hundred citizens; and in one corner of the room an ancient altar, +the _Taurabolium_, dug up in 1704, near the same place where +_Claudius's_ harangue was found; it is of common stone, well executed, +about four feet high, and one foot and a half square; on the front of +it is the bull's head, in demi relief, adorned with a garland of corn; +on the right side is the _victimary_ knife[A] of a very singular form; +and on the left the head of a ram, adorned as the bull's; near the point +of the knife are the following words, _cujus factum est_; the top of the +altar is hollowed out into the form of a shallow bason, in which, I +suppose, incense was burnt and part of the victims. + + [A] The knife, which is cut in demi relief, on the _Taurobolium_, + is crooked upon the back, exactly in the same manner, and form, as + may be seen on some of the medals of the Kings of Macedonia. + +The Latin inscription under the bull's head, is very well cut, and very +legible, by which it appears, that by the express order of CYBELE, the +reputed mother of the Gods, for the honour and health of the Emperor +_Antoninus Pius_, father of his country, and for the preservation of his +children, children, _Lucius AEmilius Carpus_[B] received the horns of +the bull, by the ministration of _Quintus Samius Secundus_, transported +them to the Vatican, and consecrated, at his own expence, this altar and +the head of the bull[C]; but I will send the inscription, and a +model[D] of the altar, as soon as I can have it made, as I find here a +very ingenious sculptor and modeller; who, to my great serprize, says +no one has hitherto been taken from it. And here let me observe, lest I +forget it, to say, that _Augustus_ lived three years in this city. + + [B] _Lucius AEmilius Carpus_ was a Priest, and a man of great + riches: he was of the quality of _Sacrovir_, and probably one of + the six Priests of the temple of Angustus.--_Sextumvir Augustalii_. + + [C] Several inscriptions of this kind have been found both in Italy + and Spain, but by far the greater number among the Gauls; and as + the sacrifices to the Goddess Cybele were some of the least ancient + of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which were suppressed on + the establishment of Christianity. Since we find one of the + Taurobolian inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of the + Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of the Heathen writers + on this head is very wonderful; for the only one who makes any + mention of them is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation on + the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, in his elaborate + account of the Taurobolium, has remarked. + + The ceremony of the consecration of the High Priest of Cybele, + which many learned men have mistaken for the consecration of the + Roman Pontifex Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest + infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed to that of the + Emperor himself. + + The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, wore the same + vestments without washing out the bloody stains, as long as they + would hold together. + + By these rites and baptisms by blood, they thought themselves, as + it were re-born to a life eternal. Sextilius Agefilaus AEdesius + says, that he was born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the + Taurobolium and Criobolium. + + Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, but also + others, who were not of that order; in particular cases the + regenerations were only promised for twenty years. + + Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which were erected at the + expence of whole cities and provinces, there were others also, + which were founded by the bounty of private people. We often meet + with the names of magistrates and priests of other Gods, who were + admitted into these mysteries, and who erected Taurobolia as + offerings for the safety of the Emperor, or their own. The rites of + the Taurobolia lasted sometimes many days. + + The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is on the same side with + the head of the bull, we have endeavoured to explain by filling up + the abbreviations which are met with in the Roman character. + + TAUROBOLIO MATRIS DEUM MAGNAE IDAEAE + QUOD FACTUM EST EX IMPERIO + MATRIS IDAEAE DEUM + PRO SALUTE IMPERATORIS CAESARIS + TITI AELII + ADRIANI ANTONINI AUGUSTI PII PATRIS PATRIAE + LIBERORUMQUE EJUS + ET STATUS COLONIAE LUGDUNENSIS + LUCIUS AEMILIUS CARPUS SEXTUMVIR + AUGUSTALIS ITEM DENDROPHORUS + VIRES EXCEPIT ET A VATICANO + TRANSTULIT ARAM ET BUCRANIUM + SUO IMPENDIO CONSECRAVIT + SACERDOTE + QUINTO SAMMIO SECUNDO AB QUINDECEMVIRIS + OCCABO ET CORONA EXORNATO + CUI SANCTISSIMUS ORDO LUGDUNENSIS + PERPETUITATEM SACERDOTIS DECREVIT + APPIO ANNIA ATILO BRADUA TITO + CLODIO VIBIO VARO CONSULIBUS + LOCUS DATUS DICRETO DECURIONUM. + + [D] _The Model is now in the possession of the ingenious_ Dr. + HARRINGTON _at Bath_. + +The _Taurobolium_ was one of the great mysteries, you know, of the +Roman religion, in the observance of which, I think, they dug a large +hole in the earth, and covered it with planks, laid at certain +distances, so as to give light into the subterranean temple. The person +who was to receive the _Taurobolio_ then descended into the theatre, and +received on his head and whole body, the smoaking hot blood of the bull, +which was there sacrificed for that purpose. If a single bull was only +sacrificed, I think they call it a simple _Taurabolio_, if a ram was +added to it, as was sometimes done, it was then called a _Torobolia_, +and _Criobolio_; sometimes too, I believe a goat was also slain. + +After all the blood of the victim animals was discharged, the Priests +and Cybils retired beneath the theatre, and he who had received the +bloody sacrifice, came forth and exposed himself, besmeared with blood, +to the people, who all prostrated themselves before him, with +reverential awe, as one who was thereby particularly sanctified, and +whose person ought to be regarded with the highest veneration, and +looked upon with holy horror; nor did this sanctification, I think, end +with the ceremony, but rendered the person of the sanctified holy for +twenty years. An inscription cited by _Gruter_, seems to confirm this +matter, who, after speaking of one _Nepius Egnatius Faventinus_, who +lived in the year of Christ 176, says, + +_"Percepto Taurobolio Criobolioque feliciter,_" + +Concludes with these words, + + _"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis, + Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes._" + +The _bis denus orbis_ seems to imply, the space of twice ten years. + +And here I cannot help making a little comparison between the honours +paid by the Roman citizens to their Emperors, and those of the present +times to the Princes of the Blood Royal. You must know that the present +King's brother, came to _Lyons_ in the year 1775, and thus it is +recorded in letters of gold upon their quay: + + LOUIS XVI. REGNANT. + EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ. + SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV. + OU + MONSIEUR FRERE DU ROI + ET MADAME + SONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLE + CE QUAI + DE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCE + ET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULAT + DU DOUZE DU MEME MOIS + A ETE NOMME A PERPETUITE + QUAI MONSIEUR. + +If the _Bourgeoise_ of _Lyons_, however, are not men of genius, they are +ingenious men, and they have a most delightful country to dwell in. I +think I may say, that from the high hills which hang about this city, +and taking in the rivers, fertile vales, rude rocks, vine-yards, and +country seats, far and near, that _Lyons_ and its environs, afford a +greater variety of natural and artificial beauties, than any spot in +Europe. It is, however, by no means a place for the winter residence of +a stranger. Most of the natives advanced in years, were carried off last +winter. The surly winds which come down the Rhone, with impetuous +blasts, are very disagreeable and dangerous. I found the cold +intolerable in the beginning of May, out of the sunshine, and the sun +intolerable in it. In England I never wore but one under waistcoat; in +Spain, and in the south of France, I found two necessary. The Spaniards +wear long cloaks, and we laugh at them; but the laugh would come more +properly from them. There is in those climates a _vifness_ in the air +that penetrates through and through; and I am sure that such who travel +to the southward for the recovery of their health, ought to be ten times +more upon their guard, to be well secured against the keen blasts the +south of France, than even against an easterly wind in England. + +The disorder which carried off so many last winter at _Lyons_, was +called the Gripe. In a large hotel only one person escaped it, an +English Lady. They called it the _Gripe_, from the fast hold it took of +the person it seized; nor did it let them go till April. + +On my way here, I found it sometimes extremely hot; it is now the first +of May, and I am shaking by the side of a good fire, and have had one +constantly every day for this fortnight. + + + + +LETTER XLIII. + +LYONS. + + +The _Lyonoise_ think their town was particularly honoured by the +_Taurobolium_; but it was a common practice to offer that sacrifice not +only for the Emperor's health, but for the preservation of a city. There +are two of these altars in the town of _Letoure_; one consecrated for +the preservation of the Emperor _Gordian_, on which is the following +inscription: + + PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL. + AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINAE PROQVE STATV CIVIT. + LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANO + II ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS M + EROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD. + +And in a little village near _Marseilles_, called _Pennes_, there is a +stone, on which is engraven, + + MATRI DEVM MAGNAE IDEAE + +And on another, in the same town, + + MATRI DEVM TAVROPOLIVM. + +I must not omit to give you a copy of a singular inscription on the +tomb of a mint-master which was found in _Lyons_, and is preserved +entire: + + NOBILIS TIB. CAESARIUS AVG. SER AEQ. MONET HIC + AD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ET + PERPETUA FILIA D.S.D. + +The most ancient money which has been found in and about this city, is +the little coin of _Mark Antony_; on one side of which is represented +the Triumvirate; on the other, a Lion, with the word _Lugudani_ under +it; on each side of the Lion are the letters A and XL. The antiquarians +here think those letters marked the value of the piece, and that it was +about forty _sous_; but is it not more probable, that this was only the +mint-master's touch? + +Nothing can be a stronger proof of the importance of this city in the +time of the Romans, than the immense expence they were at in erecting +such a number of grand aquaeducts, one of which was eighteen leagues in +length; many parts of them are still visible; and it appears that they +spent for the reparation of them at _one_ time, near one thousand +talents; and here it was that the four grand Roman highways divided; one +of which went directly to the sea, and another to the _Pyrenees_. + +_Agrippa_, who was the constructor of most of these noble monuments of +Roman grandeur, would not permit the _Lyonoise_ to erect any monument +among them to his memory; and yet, his memory is, in a very particular +manner, preserved to this day in the very heart of the city, for in the +front of a house on the quay _de Villeroy_, is a medallion of baked +earth, which, I think, perfectly resembles him; sure I am it is an +unquestionable antique; it is a little disfigured indeed, and disgraced +by his name being written upon it in modern characters. But there is +another monument of _Agrippa_ here; it is part of the epitaph of an +officer or soldier of the third cohort, whose duty it was to take an +account of the expence of each day for the subsistence of the troops +employed to work on the high-ways, and this officer was called _A. +Rationibus Agrippae_. + +There are an infinite number of Roman inscriptions preserved at _Lyons_, +among which is the following singular one: + + DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAM + TVAM RAPVERVNT. + +I have already told you of a modern monument erected by the _Lyonoise_, +and now, with grief and concern, I must tell you of an ancient one which +they have demolished! it was a most beautiful structure, called the tomb +of the Two Lovers; that, however, was a mistake; it was the tomb of a +brother and sister named _Amandas_, or _Amans_, for near where it stood +was lately found the following monumental inscription: + + D M + + ET MEMORIAE AETERNAE OLIAE TRIBVTAE + FEMINAE SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVS + AMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMAE + SIBIQVE AMANTISSIMAE P.C. ET + SVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT. + +I have seen a beautiful drawing of this fine monument, which stood near +the high road, a little without the town; the barbarian _Bourgeoises_ +threw it down about seventy years ago, to search for treasure. + +But enough of antiquities; and therefore I will tell you truly my +sentiments with respect to the south of France, which is, that _Lyons_ +is quite southward enough for an Englishman, who will, if he goes +farther, have many wants which cannot be supplied. After quitting +_Lyons_, he will find neither good butter, milk, or cream. At _Lyons_, +every thing, which man can wish for, is in perfection; it is indeed a +rich, noble, and plentiful town, abounding with every thing that is +good, and more _finery_ than even in _Paris_ itself. They have a good +theatre, and some tolerable actors; among whom is the handsomest +Frenchman I ever beheld, and, a little stiffness excepted, a good actor. + +Any young gentleman traveller, particularly _of the English nation_, who +is desirous of _replenishing his purse_, cannot, even in _Paris_, find +more convenient occasions to throw himself in _fortune's way_, than at +the city of _Lyons_. + +An English Lady, and two or three gentlemen, have lately been so +_fortunate there_, as to find lodgings _at a great Hotel_, gratis; and I +desire you will particularly _recommend a long stay at_ Lyons _to my +Oxonian friend_; where he may _see the world_ without looking out at a +window. + + + + +LETTER XLIV. + + +I find I omitted to give you before I left _Nismes_, some account of +Monsieur _Seguier_'s cabinet, a gentleman whose name I have before +mentioned, and whose conversation and company were so very agreeable to +me. Among an infinite number of natural and artificial curiosities, are +many ancient Roman inscriptions, one of which is that of _T. Julius +Festus_, which _Spon_ mentions in his _Melanges D'Antiquite_. There are +also a great number of Roman utensils of bronze, glass, and +earthen-ware. The Romans were well acquainted with the dangerous +consequences of using copper vessels[E] in their kitchens, as may be +seen in this collection, where there are a great many for that purpose; +but all strongly gilt, not only within, but without, to prevent a +possibility of _verdigris_ arising. There is also a bronze head of a +Colossal statue, found not many years since near the fountain of +_Nismes_, which merits particular attention, as well as a great number +of Roman and Greek medals and medallions, well preserved, and some which +are very rare. The natural curiosities are chiefly composed of fossils +and petrifications; among the latter, are an infinite number of +petrified fish _embalmed_ in solid stones; and where one sees the finest +membranes of the fins, and every part of the fish, delineated by the +pencil of nature, in the most exquisite manner; the greater part of +these petrifications were collected by the hands of the possessor, some +from _Mount Bola_, others from _Mount Liban_, _Switzerland_, _&c._ + + [E] See Dr. FALCONER, of _Bath_, his Treatise on this subject. + +Mr. _Seguier_'s _Herbary_ consists of more than ten thousand plants; but +above all, Mr. _Seguier_ himself, is the first, and most valuable part +of his cabinet, having spent a long life in rational amusements; and +though turned of four-score, he has all the chearfulness of youth, +without any of the garrulity of old age. When he honoured me with a +visit, at my country lodgings, he came on foot, and as the waters were +out, I asked him how he _got at me_, so dry footed? He had walked upon +the wall, he said; a wall not above nine inches thick, and of a +considerable length! + +And here let me observe that a Frenchman eats his _soup_ and _bouille_ +at twelve o'clock, drinks only _with_, not _after_ his dinner, and then +mixes water with his _genuine_ wine; he lives in a fine climate, where +there is not as with us, for six weeks together, easterly winds, which +stop the pores, and obstruct perspiration. A Frenchman eats a great +deal, it is true, but it is not all _hard meat_, and they never sit and +drink after dinner or supper is over.--An Englishman, on the contrary, +drinks much stronger, and a variety of fermented liquors, and often much +worse, and sits _at it_ many hours after dinner, and always after +supper. How then can he expect such health, such spirits, and to enjoy a +long life, free from pain, as most Frenchmen do; When the negro servants +in the West-Indies find their masters call _after_ dinner for a bowl of +punch extraordinary they whisper them, (if company are present) and ask, +"_whether they drink for drunk_, or _drink for dry_?" A Frenchman never +drinks for _drunk_.--While the Englishman is earning disease and misery +at his bottle, the Frenchman is embroidering a gown, or knitting a +handkerchief for his mistress. I have seen a Lady's sacque finely +_tamboured_ by a Captain of horse, and a Lady's white bosom shewn +through mashes netted by the man who made the snare, in which he was +himself entangled; though he made it he did not perhaps know the powers +of it till she _set it_. + + + + +LETTER XLV. + + +I write to you just as things come into my head, having taken very few +notes, and those, as you must perceive, often without much regard to +_unison_ or _time_. It has this minute occurred to me, that I omitted to +tell you on my journey onwards, that I visited a little town in +_Picardie_, called _Ham_, where there is so strong a castle, that it may +be called a _petit Bastile_, and which was then and still is, full of +state prisoners and debtors. To this castle there is a monstrous tower, +the walls of which are thirty six feet thick, and the height and +circumference are proportionable thereto; it was built by the _Conetable +de St. Paul_, in order to shut up his master, _Charles_ the VIth, King +of France, and contemporary, I think, with our _Henry_ the Vth; but such +are the extraordinary turns of all human affairs, that _Mons. le +Conetable_ was shut up in it himself many years, and ended his days +there.--The fate of this constable brings to my mind a circumstance that +happened under my _administration_, at _Land-Guard Fort_, when the King +was pleased to trust me with the command of it. I had not been +twenty-four hours in possession of what I thought a small sovereignty, +before I received a letter in the following terms: + +"SIR, Having observed horses grazing on the covered way, that _hath_ +done apparent damage, and may do more, I think it my duty to inform you, +that his Majesty does not permit horses to feed thereon, &c. &c. +(Signed) + + "ANTHONY GOODE, + Overseer of the Works." + +I never was more surprized, than to find my wings were to be thus clipt, +by a civil officer of the board of ordnance; however wrong I or my +horses had acted, I could not let Mr. GOODE _graze_ so closely upon my +authority, without a reprimand; I therefore wrote him an answer in terms +as follow: "that having seen a fat impudent-looking strutting fellow +about the garrison, it was my order that when his duty led him to +communicate any thing to me relative to the works thereof, that he came +himself, instead of writing impertinent letters." Mr. _Goode_ sent a +copy of his letter and mine to Sir _Charles Frederick_; and the post +following, he received from the Office of Ordnance, several printed +papers in the King's name, forbidding horses grazing on the WORKS, and +_ordering Mr. Goode_ to nail those orders up in different parts of the +garrison! but as I had not then learnt that either he, or his _red +ribband master_, had any authority to give out, even the King's orders, +in a garrison I commanded, but through my hands, I took the liberty, +while Mr. _Goode_ and his assistant-son were nailing one up _opposite to +my parlour window_, to send for a file of men and put them both into the +Black-hold, an apartment Mr. _Goode_ had himself built, being a +Master-Mason. By the time he had been ten minutes _grazing_ under this +_covered way_, he sent me a message, that he was _asthmatic_, that the +place was too close, and that if he died within a _year and a day_, I +must be deemed accessary to his death. But as I thought Mr. _Goode_ +should have considered, that some of the poor invalids too might now and +then be as subject to the asthma as he, it was a proper punishment, and +I kept him there till he knew the duty of a soldier, as well as that of +a mason; and as I would _his betters_, had they come down and ventured +to have given out orders in a garrison under my command; but instead of +getting me punished as a _certain gentleman_ aimed at, that able General +_Lord Ligonier_ approved my conduct, and removed the man to another +garrison, and would have dismissed him the ordnance service, had I not +become a petitioner in his favour; for he was too fat and old to work, +too proud and arrogant to beg, and he and _his advisers_ too +contemptible to be angry with.--But I must return to the castle of +_Ham_, to tell you what a dreadful black-hold there is in that tower; it +is a trap called by the French _des Obliettes_, of so horrible a +contrivance, that when the prisoners are to suffer in it, the mechanical +powers are so constructed, as to render it impossible to be again +opened, nor would it signify, but to see the body _molue_, i.e. ground +to pieces. + +There were formerly two or three _Obliettes_ in this castle; one only +now remains; but there are still several in the _Bastile_.--When a +criminal suffers this frightful death, (for perhaps it is not very +painful) he has no previous notice, but being led into the apartment, is +overwhelmed in an instant. It is to be presumed, however, that none but +criminals guilty of high crimes, suffer in this manner; for the state +prisoners in the _Bastile_ are not only well lodged, but liberal tables +are kept for them. + +An Irish officer was lately enlarged from the _Bastile_, who had been +twenty-seven years confined there; and though he found a great sum of +money in the place he had concealed it in a little before his +confinement, he told Colonel C----, of Fitz-James's regiment, that +"having out-lived his acquaintance with the world, as well as with men, +he would willingly return there again." + +At _Ham_ the prisoners for debt are quite separated from the state +prisoners; the latter are in the castle, the former in the tower. + +The death of _Lewis_ the XVth gave liberty to an infinite number of +unhappy people, and to many who would have been enlarged before, but had +been forgotten. When one of these unhappy people (a woman of fashion) +was told she might go out; then, (said she) I am sure _Lewis_ the XVth +is dead; an event she knew nothing of, tho' it was a full year after the +King's death.--Things are otherwise conducted now than in his reign; a +wicked vain woman then commanded with unlimited power, both in war and +domestic concerns. In this reign, there are able, and I believe virtuous +ministers. + +I suppose you think as I did, that Madame _Pompadour_ governed by her +own powerful charms; but that was not the case; she governed as many +other women do, by borrowed charms; she had a correspondence all over +the kingdom, and offices of intelligence, where _youth_, _beauty_, and +_innocence_, were registered, which were sent to her according to order; +upon the arrival of the _goods_, they were dressed, and trained for +_use_, under her inspection, till they were fit to be _shewn up_. She +had no regard to birth, for a shoe-maker's daughter of great beauty, +belonging to one of the Irish brigades, being introduced to the King, +he asked her whether she knew him? No: she did not: But did you ever see +me before, or any body like me? She had not, but thought him very like +the face on the _gros Eccuis_ of France. Madame _Pompadour_ soon found +out which of these girls proved most agreeable to the King, and such +were retained, the others dismissed.--The expence of this traffick was +immense. I am assured where difficulties of birth or fashion fell in the +way, ten thousand pounds sterling have been given. Had _Lewis_ the XVth +lived a few years longer, he would have ruined his kingdom. _Lewis_ the +XVIth bids fair to aggrandize it. + + + + +LETTER XLVI. + +POST-HOUSE, ST GEORGE, six leagues from LYONS. + + +I am particular in dating this letter, in hopes that every English +traveller may avoid the place I write from, by either stopping short, or +going beyond it, as it is the only house of reception for travellers in +the village, and the worst I have met with in my whole journey. We had +been scurvily treated here as we went; but having arrived at it after +dark, and leaving it early, I did not recollect it again, till the +mistress by her sour face and sorry fare betrayed it; for she well +remembered _us_. As a specimen of French auberge cookery, I cannot help +serving up a dish of spinnage to you as it was served to me at this +house. We came in early in the afternoon, and while I was in the +court-yard, I saw a flat basket stand upon the ground, the bottom of +which was covered with boiled spinnage; and as my dog, and several +others in the yard, had often put their noses into it, I concluded it +was put down for _their_ food, not _mine_, till I saw a dirty girl +patting it up into round balls, and two children, the eldest of them not +above three years old, slavering in and playing with it, one of whom, +_to lose no time_, was performing _an office_ that none could _do for +her_. I asked the maid what she was about, and what it was she was so +preparing? for I began to think I had been mistaken, till she told me it +was spinnage;--not for me, I hope, said I,--'_oui, pour vous et le +monde_.' I then forbad her bringing any to my table, and putting the +little girl _off her center_, by an angry push, made her almost as dirty +as the spinnage; and I could perceive her mother, the hostess, and some +French travellers who were near, looked upon me as a brute, for +_disturbing la pauvre enfant_; nevertheless, with my _entree_ came up a +dish of this _delicate spinnage_, with which I made the girl a very +pretty _Chapeau Anglois_, for I turned it, dish and all, upon her head; +this set the house in such an uproar, that, if there had not come in an +old gentleman like _Bourgeois_ of _Paris_, at that instant, I verily +believe I should have been turned out; but he engaged warmly in my +defence, and insisted upon it that I had treated the girl just as he +would have done, had she brought such a dirty dish to him after being +cautioned not to do so; nor should I have got any supper, had I not +prevailed on this good-natured man, who never eat any, to order a supper +for himself, and transfer it to me. He was a native of _Lyons_, and had +been, for the first time after thirty years absence, to visit his +relations there. My entertainment at this house, _outward-bound_, was +half a second-hand roasted turkey, or, what the sailors call a +_twice-laid_ dish, i.e. one which is _done over_ a second time. + +I know the French in general will not like to see this dirty charge, +brought even against an _aubergiste_, and much less to hear it said, +that this disregard to cleanliness is almost general in the public inns; +but truth justifies it, and I hope the publication may amend it. + +A modern French anonymous traveller, who I conclude by the company he +kept in England, is a man of fashion, gives in general a just account of +the English nation, their customs and manners; and acknowledges, in +handsome terms, the manner he was received by some of the first families +in England. He owns, however, he does not understand English, yet he has +the temerity to say, that _Gulliver's_ travels are the _chef d'oeuvre_ +of _Dean Swift_; but observes, that those travels are greatly improved +by passing through the hands of _Desfontaines_.--This gentleman must +excuse me in saying, that _Desfontaines_ neither understood English, nor +_Dean Swift_, better than he does. He also concludes his first volume, +by observing, that what a French Ambassador to England said of that +nation, in the year 1523, constitutes their character at this day! +'Alas! poor England! thou _be'st_ so closely situated, and in such daily +conversation with the polite and polished nation of France, thou hast +gained nothing of their ease, breeding, and compliments, in the space of +two hundred and fifty years!'--What this gentleman alludes to, is the +Ambassador's letter to the _Conetable Montmorency_, previous to the +meeting of _Henry_ the Eighth and _Francis_ the First, near _Ardres_; +for, (says the Ambassador) _sur-tout je vous prie, que vous ostiez de la +Cour, ceux qui unt la reputation d'etre joyeux & gaudisseur, car c'est +bien en ce monde, la chose la plus haie de cette nation_. And in a few +lines after, he foists in an extract from a Scotchman, one _Barclay_, +who, in his _Examen of Nations_, says, _Jenenc connoit point de plus +aimable creature, qui un Francois chez qui l'enjoument est tempore par +le judgment, & par discretion_; to all which I subscribe: but such men +are seldom to be met with in any kingdom. + +This gentleman says, the most remarkable, or rather the only act of +gaiety he met with in _London_, was an harangue made for an hour in the +House of Lords, previous to the trial of Lord _Byron_; and that, as he +afterwards understood, it was made by a drunken member of parliament. He +says it made him and every body laugh exceedingly; but he laughed only +(I presume) because every body else did, and relates the story, I fear, +merely to make it a national laugh; for the harangue was certainly very +ill placed, and the mirth it produced, very indecent, at a time a Peer +of the realm was to be brought forth, accused of murder; and the +untimely death of a valuable and virtuous young man, revived in every +body's memory. + +This is the unfavourable side of what the gentleman says of the first +people in England. Of the peasants and lower order, he observes, that, +though they are well fed, well cloathed, and well lodged, yet they are +all of a melancholy turn.--The French have no idea of what we call _dry +humour_; and this gentleman, perhaps, thought the English clown +melancholy, while he was laughing in his sleeve at the foppery of his +_laquais_. + +These observations put me in mind of another modern traveller, a man of +sense and letters too, who observes, that the ballustrades at +_Westminster_ bridge are fixed very close together, to prevent the +English getting through to drown themselves: and of a Gentleman at +_Cambridge_, who, having cut a large pigeon-hole under his closet door, +on being asked the use of it, said, he had it cut for an old cat which +had kittens, to go in and out; but added, _that he must send for the +carpenter, to cut little holes for the young ones_. His _acute visitor_ +instantly set up a _horse_ laugh, and asked him whether the little cats +could not come out at the same hole the big one did? The other laughing +in his turn, said, he did not _think of that_. + +Though I have spoken with freedom of this French traveller's remarks, +yet I must own that, in general, he writes and thinks liberally, and +speaks highly of the English nation, and very gratefully of many +individuals to whom he was known; and, I dare say, a Frenchman will find +many more mistakes of mine, which I shall be happy to see pointed out, +or rectified: but were I to pick out the particular objects of laughter, +pity, and contempt, which have fallen in my way, in twice crossing this +great continent, I could make a second _Joe Miller_ of one, and a _Jane +Shore_ of the other. If this traveller could have understood the +_Beggars' Opera_, the _humour_ of _Sam. Foote_, or the pleasantry among +English sailors, watermen, and the lower order of the people, he would +have known, that, though the English nation have not so much vivacity +as the French, they are behind-hand with no nation whatever, where true +wit and genuine humour are to be displayed. What would he have said, +could he have seen and entered into the spirit of the procession of the +_miserable Scalds_, or Mr. _Garrick_ in _Scrub_; _Shuter_, _Woodward_, +Mrs. _Clive_, or even our little _Edwin_ at _Bath_? Had he seen any of +these things, he must have laughed with the multitude, as he did in the +House of Lords, though he had not understood it, and must have seen how +inimitably the talents of these men were formed, to excite so much mirth +and delight, even to a heavy _unpolished_ English audience. + + + + +LETTER XLVII. + + +From _St. George_ to _Macon_ is five leagues. Nothing on earth can be +more beautiful than the face of this country, far and near. The road +lies over a vast and fertile plain, not far distant from the banks of +the _Soane_ on one side, and adorned with mountains equally fertile, and +beautiful, on the other. It is very singular, that all the cows of this +part of the country are white, or of a light dun colour, and the dress +of all the _Maconoise_ peasants as different from any other province in +France, as that of the Turkish habit; I mean the women's dress, for I +perceived no difference among the men, but that they are greater clowns, +than any other French peasants. The women wear a broad bone lace ruff +about their necks, and a narrow edging of the same sort round their +caps, which are in the form of the charity girls' caps in England; but +as they must not bind them on with any kind of ribband, they look rather +_laid upon_ their heads, than _dressed upon them_; their gowns are of a +very coarse light brown woollen cloth, made extremely short-waisted, and +full of high and thick plaits over the hips, the sleeves are rather +large, and turned up with some gaudy coloured silk; upon the shoulders +are sewed several pieces of worsted livery lace, which seem to go quite +under their arms, in the same manner as is sometimes put to children to +strengthen their leading-strings; upon the whole, however, the dress is +becoming, and the very long petticoat and full plaits, have a graceful +appearance. + +At _Lyons_ I saw a _Macinoise_ girl of fashion, or fortune, in this +dress; her lace was fine, her gown silk, and her shoulder-straps of +silver; and, as her head had much more of the _bon gout_ than the _bon +ton_, I thought her the most inviting object I had seen in that city, +my delicate landlady at _Nismes_ always excepted. I think France cannot +produce such another woman _for beauty_ as _Madame Seigny_. + +I bought a large quantity of the _Macon_ lace, at about eight-pence +English a yard, which, at a little distance, cannot easily be +distinguished from fine old _pointe_. + +Between _St. George_ and _Macon_, at a time we wanted our breakfast, we +came to a spot where two high roads cross each other, and found there a +little _cabbin_, not unlike the Iron House, as to whim, but this was +built, sides, top, and bottom, with sawed boards; and as a little bit of +a board hung out at the door informed us they sold wine, I went in, and +asked the mistress permission to boil my tea-kettle, and to be permitted +to eat our breakfast in her pretty _cabbin_? The woman was knitting; she +laid down her work, rose up, and with the ease and address of a woman of +the first fashion, said we did her honour, that her house, such as it +was, and every thing in it, were at our service; she then sent a girl to +a farmer's hard by, for milk, and to a village a quarter of a league +distant, for hot bread; and while we breakfasted, her conversation and +good breeding made up a principal part of the _repas_; she had my horse +too brought to the back part of her _cabbin_, where he was well fed from +a portable manger. I bought of her two bottles of white wine, not much +inferior to, and much wholesomer than, Champaigne, and she charged me +for the whole, milk, bread, fire, _conversation_, and wine, thirty six +_sols_, about seventeen pence English! Though this gentlewoman, for so I +must call her, and so I believe she is, lived in such a small hut, she +seemed to be in good circumstances, and had _liqueurs_, tea, and a great +variety of _bons choses_ to sell. This was the only public house, (if it +maybe called by that name,) during my whole journey _out_ and _in_, +where I found perfect civility; not that the publicans in general have +not civility _in their possession_, but they will not, either from +_pride_ or _design_, _produce it_, particularly to strangers. My +_wooden-house landlady_ indeed, was a prodigy; and it must be confessed, +that no woman of the lower order in England, nor even of the middling +class, have any share of that ease and urbanity which is so common among +the lower order of the _people_ of this kingdom: but the woman I now +speak of, had not, you will perceive, the least design even upon my +purse; I made no previous agreement with her for my good fare, and she +scorned to take any advantage of my confidence; and I shewed my sense of +it, by giving her little maid eight times more than she ever received +for such services before--an English shilling. + +Let not this single, and singular woman, however, induce you to trust to +the confidence of a French _aubergiste_ especially a _female_; you may +as well trust to the conscience of an itinerant Jew. Frenchmen are so +aware of this, that have heard a traveller, on a _maigre_ day, make his +bargain for his _aumlet_ and the number of eggs to be put in it, with an +exactness scarce to be imagined; and yet the upshot was only two pence +English. + +The easy manner in which a French officer, or gentleman, can traverse +this mighty kingdom, either for pleasure or business, is extremely +agreeable, and worthy of imitation among young British officers.--In +England, if an Ensign of foot is going a journey, he must have two +horses, and a groom, though he has nothing but a regimental suit of +cloaths, and half a dozen shirts to carry; his horses too must _set both +ends well_ because he is a _Captain_ upon the road! and he travels at +about five times the expence of his pay. + +The French officer buys a little _biddet_, puts his shirts and best +regimental coat into a little _portmanteau_, buckles that behind his +saddle, and with his sword by his side, and his _croix_ at his +button-hole, travels at the expence of about three shillings a day, and +often less, through a kingdom where every order of people shew him +attention, and give him precedence. + +I blush, when I recollect that I have _rode_ the risque of being wet to +the skin because I would not _disgrace my saddle_, nor load my back with +a great coat; for I have _formerly_, as well as _latterly_, travelled +without a servant. + +I have a letter now before me, which I received a few days ago from a +French Captain of foot, who says, _sur le champ j'ay fait seller ma +petite Rossinante (car vous scavez que j'ay achete un petit cheval de 90 +livres selle et bride) et me voila a Epernay chez Monsieur Lechet_, &c. +This gentleman's whole pay does not amount to more than sixty pounds a +year, yet he has always five guineas in his pocket, and every +convenience, and some luxuries about him; he assists now and then an +extravagant brother, appears always well dressed; and last year I bought +him a ticket in the British lottery: he did not consider that he +employed an unfortunate man to buy it, and I _forgot_ to remind him of +it. + +After saying thus much of a virtuous young man (_though a Frenchman_) +there will be no harm in telling you his name is _Lalieu_, a Captain in +the regiment _du Maine_.--Before I took my last leave of him, talking +together of the horrors of war, I asked him what he would do if he were +to see me _vis-a-vis_ in an hostile manner? He embraced me, and said, +"turn the but end of my fusee towards you, my friend." I thank God that +neither his _but-end_, nor my _muzzle_ can ever meet in that manner, and +I shall be happy to meet him in any other. + +_P.S._ I omitted to say, that the _Maconoise_ female peasants wear +black hats, in the form of the English straw or chip hats; and when they +are tied on, under the chin, it gives them with the addition of their +round-eared laced cap, a decent, modest appearance which puts out of +countenance all the borrowed plumage, dead hair, black wool, lead, +grease, and yellow powder, which is now in motion between _Edinburgh_ +and _Paris_. + +It is a pity that pretty women, at least, do not know, that the +simplicity of a Quaker's head-dress, is superior to all that art can +contrive: and those who remember the elegant _Miss Fide_, a woman of +that persuasion, will subscribe to the truth of my assertion. And it is +still a greater pity, that plain women do not know, that the more they +adorn and _artify_ their heads, the more conspicuous they make their +natural defects. + + + + +LETTER XLVIII. + + +At _Challons sur la Soane_, (for there is another town of the same name +in _Champaigne_) I had the _honor_ of a visit from _Mons. le Baron +Shortall_, a gentleman of an ancient family, _rather in distress at this +time_, by being _kept out_ of six and thirty thousand a year, his legal +property in Ireland; but as the Baron made his visit _ala-mode de +capuchin Friar_, without knocking, and when only the female part of my +family were in the apartment, he was dismissed _rather abruptly_ for a +man of _his high rank_ and _great fortune in expectation_. This +dismission, however, did not dismay him; he rallied again, with the +reinforcement of _Madame la Baroness_, daughter, as he positively +affirmed, of _Mons. le Prince de Monaco_; but as I had forbad his being +_shewn up_, he desired me to _come down_, a summons curiosity induced +me to obey. Never, surely, were two people _of fashion_ in a more +pitiable plight! he was in a _russet brown black_ suit of cloaths; +Madame _la Baroness_ in much the same colour, wrapt up in a tattered +black silk capuchin; and I knew not which to admire most, their folly or +their impudence; for surely never did an _adventurer_ set out with less +_capabilities_ about him; his whole story was so flagrant a fib, that in +spite of the _very respectable certificates of My Lord Mayor, John +Wilkes, and Mr. Alderman Bull_, I was obliged to tell him plainly, that +I did not believe him to be a gentleman, nor his wife to be a relation +of the Prince of _Monaco_. All this he took in good part, and then +assured me they were both very hungry, and without meat or money; I +therefore ordered a dinner at twenty _sols_ a head; and, as I sat by +while they eat it, I had reason to believe that he told me _one plain +truth_, for in truth they eat as if they had never eaten before. After +dinner the Baron did me the honour to consult with me _how_ he should +get down to _Lyons_? I recommended to him to proceed by _water_; but, +said he, my dear Sir, I have no money;--an evil I did not chuse to +redress; and, after several unsuccessful attempts at my purse, and some +at my person,--he whispered me that even six livres would be acceptable; +but I held out, and got off, by proposing that the Baroness should write +a letter to the Prince her father, to whom I had the honour to be known, +and that I would carry him the letter, and enforce their prayer, by +making it my own. This measure she instantly complied with, and +addressed her father _adorable Prince_; but concluded it with a name +which could not belong to her either as maid, wife, or widow. I remarked +this to the _Baron_, who acknowledged at once _the mistake_, said she +had signed a false name, and she should write it over again; but when I +observed to him that, as the Prince knew the handwriting of his _own_ +dear child, and as the name of women is _often varying by marriage_, or +_miscarriage_, it was all one: to this he agreed; and I brought off the +letter, and my purse too, for forty _sols_; yet there was so much +falshood, folly, and simplicity in this _simple pair of adventurers_, +that I sorely repented I did not give them their passage in the _coche +d'eau_ to _Lyons_; for he could not speak a word of French, nor _Madame +la Baroness_ a word of English; and the only _insignia_ of distinction +between them, was, a vast clumsy brass-hilted sword which the Baron, +instead of wearing at his side, held up at his nose, like a Physician's +gold-headed cane.--When I took my leave of this _Sir James Shortall_, +(for he owned _at last_ he was _only a Baronet_) he promised to meet me +_next time_ dressed in his blue and silver. + +I verily believe my Irish _adventurer_ at _Perpignan_, is a gentleman, +and therefore I relieved him; I am thoroughly persuaded my _Challons_ +adventurer is not, yet perhaps he was a real object of charity, and his +true tale would have produced him better success than his _borrowed +story_. _Sir James_ was about sixty, _Lady Shortall_ about fifty.--_Sir +James_ too had a pretty large property in America, and would have +visited his estates on that continent, had I not informed him of the +present unhappy differences now subsisting between that and the mother +country, of which he had not heard a single syllable. + + +After having said thus much, I think I must treat you with a copy of +_Lady Shortall's_ letter, a name very applicable to their unhappy +situation, for they did indeed seem short of every thing;--so here it +is, _verbatim et literatim_: + +"_Monsieur Thickness gentilhomme anglaise_ + +"Adorable preince de monaco que tout mordonne deme, lise au de fus de +cette lette le non deun digne homme qui me randu ser visse, je suis +malade, le convan; serois preferable a mon bouneur je veux sepandant +sauve non marij mais je me meure tre seve mon derinier soupire, je ne le +doit qua vous. + + "JULIE BARONNE DE CHATTERRE. + _le 18 May 1776._" + +"_A sont altess ele preince de Monaco, dans sont hautelle rue de +Vareinne a Paris_." + + + + +LETTER XLIX. + + +From _Challons_ to _Bonne_, is five leagues. _Bonne_ is a good town, +well walled-in, pleasantly situated, and remarkable for an excellent and +well-conducted Hospital, where the poor sick are received _gratis_, +without distinction, and where the rich sick are accommodated with +nurses, physicians, medicines, food, and lodging, with every assistance +that can be wanted, for four livres a day. The apartments in which the +poor are received, are so perfectly clean and sweet, that they are fit +for people of any condition; but those provided for the better sort, are +indeed sumptuously furnished. The women who act as nurses, are of a +religious order, and wear a particular, decent, and uniform habit, to +which their modest deportment exactly coincides; yet most of them are +young, and many of them very beautiful. + +Between these two towns we met an English servant, in a rich laced +livery, conducting, behind a post-chaise, a large quantity of baggage; +and soon after, a second servant, in the same uniform; this excited our +curiosity, and we impatiently proceeded, in hopes of meeting the +equipage, which it was natural to expect would soon follow; instead of +which, it was an old English four-wheel chaise, the _contents_ of which +were buckled close up behind a pair of dirty leather curtains; and on +the coach-box sat, by the side of the driver, a man who had the +appearance of an English farmer. This contrast rather increased than +lessened our curiosity; and, therefore, at _Bonne_, I made some enquiry +about them of the post-master; who told me they came in, and set off, +separately, just as I had met them; but that one servant paid for the +horses to all the carriages, and that the woman _behind the curtain, +according to custom, did not chuse to shew herself_. Just as I was +returning with this blind account, an English servant, who I had not +perceived, but who stood near, told me, he was sure _as how_ it was +either the _Duchess_ of _Kingston_ or _Mrs Rudd_, for that he _seed_ her +very plain. I was much surprized at finding an Englishman so near me; +and the singularity of the man's observation had a very forcible effect +upon me. When the mirth which it unavoidably occasioned, was a little +subsided, I could not help correcting, in gentle terms, (though I was +otherwise glad to see even an English footman so far from _English +land_) a man in his station for speaking of people of high rank with so +much indecent levity, and then told him, that there was no such person +living as the _Duchess_ of _Kingston_, but that it was probable the Lady +he thought he had seen might be _Lady Bristol_; that there was not +however, the least resemblance between the person of her Ladyship and +the other Lady he had mentioned, the latter being young, thin, and +rather handsome; whereas _Lady Bristol_ was very fat, and advanced in +years; I therefore suspected, I told him, that he had confounded the +trials of those two Ladies, and fancied he saw a likeness in their +persons, by an association of ideas; but in reality, there was as much +difference in their crimes as in their persons. _Crimes_! did I say? +that is an improper expression, because I am informed _Mrs. Rudd_ has +been acquitted; but that, if the foreign papers might be relied on, +_Lady Bristol_ had been found guilty of BIGAMY: But as he seemed not to +understand what I meant by _Bigamy_, or the _association of ideas_, I +was unavoidably led into a conversation, and explanation, with this +young man; which nothing but my pride, and his ignorance, could justify; +but as the fellow was overjoyed to see me, I could not help giving him +something to drink, and with it a caution never to speak of people of +high rank and condition, even behind their backs, but under their proper +names or titles, and with decency and respect: he then begged my +pardon, and assured me, if he had known that either of the Ladies had +been a friend of mine, he would not have coupled them so improperly +together; and I am thoroughly convinced, the man left me with a +resolution, never to hazard a conjecture without a better foundation +than that he started to me, and which I rather believe he hit off +_extempore_, to speak to me, and shew himself my countryman, than from +really suspecting that the woman behind the curtain was either _Lady +Bristol_, or _Mrs. Rudd_; though I was inclined to think it very +probable, for I had seen _Lord Bristol_ on his way through _Lyons_ from +_Italy_ to _England_, and had been informed, _Lady Bristol_ was then on +her road to _Italy_; in which case, I, like the footman, had my +conjectures, and accounted for the leather curtains being so _closely +buckled to_. + +These are trifling remarks, you will say; but if a sign-painter can +paint only a bear, those who employ him must have a bear for their +sign; nevertheless, we have all a certain curiosity to know even the +most trifling actions, or movements of people, who by their virtues or +vices, especially if they are people of rank or condition, have +occasioned much talk in the world; and therefore, ridiculous as this +incident is, yet as we have long known one of the Ladies, and often +_admired_ both, I could not let either one or the other pass me +unnoticed, on a road too, where even an English Duchess (if she would +own the truth) would feel a secret delight in meeting of a +Hyde-park-corner groom. + +I have already mentioned what partiality and degree of notice, +countrymen take of each other when they meet far from home. That notice +is always in proportion to the distance. Had my _Bonne_ footman spoke of +_Lady Bristol_, or _Mrs. Rudd_, in such free terms as _how he seed 'em_, +&c. &c. at Hyde-park-corner, or in Tyburn-road, I should have knocked +him down with the but end of my whip; but at _Bonne_ (five hundred +miles from either of those places) he and I were _quatre cousins_; and I +could not help treating him with a bottle of _vin de pais_. + + + + +LETTER L. + + +From _Bonne_ we intended to have taken the high road to _Dijon_; but +being informed that there was another, though not much frequented, by +way of _Autun_, and that _that_ town, which was a Roman colony, still +contained many curious monuments worthy of notice, we pursued the +latter, which twisted in between a vast variety of small, but fertile +valleys, watered with brooks, bounded by romantic hills, and some high +mountains, most of which were covered with vines, which _did_ produce +the most delicious red wine in the world; I say _did produce_, for the +high _gout_ and flavour of the Burgundy grape has for many years failed, +and perhaps so as never to return again. We, however, missed the road to +_Autun_, and, after four leagues' journey through a most delightful +country, we arrived at a miserable auberge in a dirty village called +_Yozy_, which stands upon the margin of a large forest, in which, some +years since, the _diligence_ from _Lyons_ to _Paris_ was attacked by a +banditti, and the whole party of travellers were murdered: ever since +that fatal day, a guard of the _Marechaussee_ always escort the +_diligence_ through this deep and dreadful forest, (so they called it), +and we were persuaded it was right to take a couple of the +_Marechaussee_, and did so; but as we found the forest by no means so +long, deep, or dreadful, as it had been represented, we suspected that +the advice given us, was more for the sake of the men who _guarded us_, +than from any regard _to us_, two men could have made no great +resistance against a banditti; and a single man would hardly have +meddled with us. + +The next day we passed thro' _Arnay-le-Duc_, a pretty country village, +three leagues from _Yozy_, and it being their annual fair-day, we had an +opportunity of seeing all the peasantry, dressed in their best, and +much chearfulness, not only in the town, but upon the road before we +arrived, and after we passed it. Amongst the rest of the company, were a +bear and a monkey, or rather what _Buffon_ calls the _maggot_. I desired +the shew-man to permit my _maggot_, as he was the least, the youngest, +and the _stranger_, to pay a visit to _Mons. Maggot_, the elder, who +embraced the _young gentleman_ in a manner which astonished and +delighted every body, myself only excepted; but as _my young gentleman_ +seemed totally indifferent about the _old one_, I suspected he had +_really met his father_, and I could not help moralizing a little. + +From _Arnay-le-Duc_ we passed through _Maupas_, _Salou_, _Rouvray_, +_Quisse la forge_, and _Vermanton_ to _Auxerre_, the town where the +French nobleman _was said_ to live, whom Dr. _Smollett_ treated so very +roughly, and who, in return, was so _polite_ as to _help to tie_ the +Doctor's baggage behind his coach! + +About a quarter of a mile without this town, stands a royal convent, +richly endowed, and delightfully situated; the walls of which take in +near twenty acres of land, well planted on the banks of a river; and +here I left my two daughters, to perfect themselves in the French +language, as there was not one person within the convent, nor that I +could find, within the town, who could speak a word of English. And here +I must not omit to tell you, how much I was overcome with the generosity +of this virtuous, and I must add amiable, society of _religieux_. Upon +my first inquiry about their price for board, lodging, washing, cloaths, +and in short, every thing the children did, or might want, they required +a sum much beyond the limits of my scanty income to give; but before we +left them, they became acquainted with _some circumstances_, which +induced them to express their concern that the price I had offered (not +half what they had demanded) could not be taken. We therefore retired, +and had almost fixed the children in a cheaper convent, but much +inferior in all respects, within the town, when we received a polite +letter from the Lady Abbess, to say, that after consulting with her +sister-hood, they had come to a resolution to take the children at our +_own_ price, rather than not shew how much they wished to oblige us. +Upon this occasion, we were _all_ admitted within the walls of the +convent; and I had the pleasure of seeing my two daughters joined to an +elegant troop of about forty genteel children, and of leaving them under +the care of the same number of _religieux_. And yet these good people +knew nothing of us, but what we ourselves communicated to them, not +being known, nor knowing any person in the town.--The Lady-Abbess of +this convent is a woman of high rank, about twenty-four years of age, +and possesses as large a share of beauty as any reasonable woman, even +on the _outside_ of a convent, could wish for. + +_Auxerre_ is a good town, pleasantly situated, and in a plentiful and +cheap country. + +From _Auxerre_ to _Ioigni_ is five leagues. The _Petit bel Vue_ on the +banks of the river is very pleasantly situated, but a dreadful one +within side, in every respect, being a mixture of dirt, ignorance, and +imposition; but it is the only inn for travellers, and therefore +travellers should avoid it. In order to put my old hostess in good +humour, I called early for a bottle of Champaigne; and in order to put +me into a bad humour, she charged me the next day for two; but I +_charged her_ with _Mons. Le Connetable_, who behaved like a gentleman, +though I think he was only a _marchand de tonneau_: but then he was a +_wine_ not _beer_ cooper, who hooped the old Lady's barrel. + +Where-ever I was ill-used or imposed upon, I always sent a pretty heavy +packet by the post, after I had run down a hundred miles or two, by way +of _draw-back_, upon my host, and recompence to the King's high road; +for in France, + + _"Like the Quakers' by-way, + 'Tis plain without turnpikes, so + nothing to pay"_ + +An old witch, who had half starved us at _Montpellier_, for want of +provisions, when we went, and for want of fire to dry us, when we came +back, left a piece of candle in my budget, which I did not omit to +return by the post, _well packed up_, lest it should grease other +packets of more importance, by riding an hundred leagues; besides this +it was accompanied by a very civil _letter of advice_, under another +cover. + + + + +LETTER LI. + + +The next town of any note is _Sens_, a large, _ragged_, ancient city; +but adorned with a most noble Gothic cathedral, more magnificent than +even that of _Rheims_, and well worthy of the notice of strangers; it is +said to have been built by the English: With the relicks and +_custodiums_ of the host, are shewn the sacerdotal habits, in which +Archbishop _Becket_ (who resided there many years) said mass, for it was +his head-quarters, when he _left_ Britain, as well as _Julius Caesar_'s +before he went there. The silver hasps, and some of the ornaments of +these garments, are still perfect, though it has undergone so many +darnings, as to be little else. + +_Becket_ was a very tall man; for though it has many tucks in it, yet it +is generally too long for the tallest priest in the town, who +constantly says mass in it on _St. Thomas_'s day. + +How times and men are changed! This town, which resisted the arms of +_Caesar_ for a considerable time, was put in the utmost consternation by +_Dr. Smollett_'s causing his travelling blunderbuss to be only fired in +the air, a circumstance "which greatly terrified all the _petit monde!_" +It is very singular, that the Doctor should have frightened a French +nobleman of _Burgundy_, by shaking his cane at him, and even made him +assist in the most servile offices; and in the next town, terrify all +the common people, by only firing a blunderbuss in the air! + +I would not willingly arraign a dead man with telling two fibbs so close +upon the back of each other; but I am sure there was but that single +French nobleman, in this mighty kingdom, who would have submitted to +such insults as the Doctor _says_ he treated him with; nor any other +town but _Sens_, where the firing of a gun would have so terrified the +inhabitants; for, drums, guns, and noise of every sort, seem to afford +the common French people infinite pleasure. + +I spent in this town a day or two, and part of that time with a very +agreeable Scotch family, of the name of _Macdonald_, where Lieutenant +Colonel _Stuart_ was then upon a visit. + +I have some reason to think that _Sens_ is a very cheap town. Several +English, Scotch, and Irish families reside in it. + +From _Sens_ to _Port sur Yonne_ is three leagues, and from _Yonne_ to +_Foussart_ the same distance. + +At the three Kings at _Foussart_, suspecting there was a cat behind the +bed in wait for my bird, I found, instead thereof, a little _narrow +door_, which was artfully hid, and which opened into another room; and +as I am sure the man is a cheat, I suspect too, that upon a _good +occasion_, he would have made some _use_ of his little door. + +_Foussart_ is a small place, consisting only of three or four public +houses. From thence to _Morret_, is three leagues, on which road is +erected a noble pillar of oriental marble, in memory of the marriage of +_Lewis_ the XVth. Soon after we passed this monument, we entered into +the delightful forest of _Fontainbleau_; and passing three leagues to +the center of it, we arrived at that ancient royal palace: it stands +very low, and is surrounded by a great many fine pieces of water, which, +however, render the apartments very damp. The King and royal family had +been there six weeks, and were gone but ten days, and with them, all the +furniture of the palace was also gone, except glasses, and a few +pictures, of no great value. In a long, gallery are placed, on each +side of the wall, a great number of stags' heads, carved in wood, and +upon them are fixed the horns of stags and bucks, killed by the late, +and former Kings; some of which are very _outre_, others singularly +large and beautiful. + +_Fontainbleau_ is a good town, stands adjacent to the palace; and as the +gardens, park, &c. are always open, it is a delightful summer residence. +We staid a few days there, to enjoy the shady walks, and to see the +humours of a great annual fair, which commenced the day after we +arrived. All sorts of things are sold at this fair; but the principal +business is done in the _wine way_, many thousand pieces of the inferior +Burgundy wine being brought to this market. + +We made two little days' journey from _Fontainbleau_ to _Paris_, a town +I entered with concern, and shall leave with pleasure.--As I had +formerly been of some service to _Faucaut_ who keeps the _Hotel +d'York_, when he lived in _Rue de Mauvais Garcon_ I went to this +_famous Hotel_, which would have been more in character, if he had given +it the name of his former street, and called it, _L'Hotel de Mauvais +Garcon_ for it is an hospital of bugs and vermin: the fellow has got the +second-hand beds of _Madame Pompadour_, upon his first floor, which he +_modestly_ asks thirty _louis d'ors_ a month for! All the rest of the +apartments are pigeon-holes, filled with fleas, bugs, and dirt; and +should a fire happen, there is no way of escaping. Nothing should be +more particularly attended to in _Paris_ than the security from fire, +where so many, and such a variety of strangers, and their servants, are +shut up at night, within one _Porte Cochere_. + + + + +LETTER LII. + +PARIS. + + +I found no greater alteration in _Paris_, after ten years' absence from +it, than the prodigious difference of expence; most articles, I think, +are one-third dearer, and many double; a horse is not half so well fed +or lodged at _Paris_ as at _London_; but the expence is nearly a guinea +a week, and a stranger may drive half round the city before he can lodge +himself and his horses under the same roof.[F] + + [F] _Paul Gilladeau_ who lately left the Silver Lion, at _Calais_, + has, I am informed, opened a Livery Stable at _Paris_, upon the + _London_ plan, in partnership with _Dessein_, of the _Hotel + d'Angleterre_ at _Calais_: a convenience much wanted, and + undertaken by a man very likely to succeed. + +The beauties, the pleasures, and variety of amusements, which this city +abounds with, are, without doubt, the magnets which attract so many +people of rank and fortune of all nations to it; all which are too well +known to be pointed out by me.--To a person of great fortune in the +_hey-day_ of life, _Paris_ may be preferable even to _London_; but to +one of my age and walk in life, it is, and was ten years ago, the least +agreeable place I have seen in France.--Walking the streets is extremely +dangerous, riding in them very expensive; and when those things which +are worthy to be seen, (and much there is very worthy) have been seen, +the city of _Paris_ becomes a melancholy residence for a stranger, who +neither plays at cards, dice, or deals in the principal manufacture of +the city; i.e. _ready-made love_, a business which is carried on with +great success, and with more decency, I think, that even in _London_. +The English Ladies are _weak_ enough to attach themselves to, and to +love, one man. The gay part of the French women love none, but receive +all, _pour passer le tems_.--The _English_, unlike the _Parisian_ +Ladies, take pains to discover _who_ they love; the French women to +dissemble with those they hate. + +It is extremely difficult for even strangers of rank or fortune, to get +among the first people, so as to be admitted to their suppers; and +without that, it is impossible to have any idea of the luxury and stile +in which they live: quantity, variety, and show, are more attended to in +France, than neatness. It is in England alone, where tables are served +with real and uniform elegance; but the appetite meets with more +provocatives in France; and the French _cuisine_ in that respect, +certainly has the superiority. + +Ten years ago I had the honour to be admitted often to the table of a +Lady of the first rank. On _St. Ann's-day_, (that being her name-day) +she received the visits of her friends, who all brought either a +valuable present, a poesy, or a compliment in verse: when the dessert +came upon the table, which was very magnificent, the middle plate +seemed to be the finest and fairest fruit (_peaches_) and I was much +surprized, that none of the Ladies, were helped by the gentlemen from +_that_ plate: but my surprize was soon turned into astonishment! for the +peaches suddenly burst forth, and played up the Saint's name, (_St. +Ann_) in artificial fire-works! and many pretty devices of the same +kind, were whirled off, from behind the coaches of her visitors, to +which they were fixed, as the company left the house, which had a pretty +effect, and was no indelicate way of _taking a French leave_. + +There is certainly among the French people of fashion an ease and +good-breeding, which is very captivating, and not easily obtained, but +by being bred up with them, from an early age; the whole body must be +formed for it, as in dancing, while there is the pliability of youth; +and where there is, as in France, a constant, early, and intimate +correspondence between the two sexes. Men would be fierce and savage, +were it not for the society of the other sex, as may be seen among the +Turks and Moors, who must not visit their own wives, when other men's +wives are with them. In France, the Lady's bed-chamber is always open, +and she receives visits in bed, or up, with perfect ease. A noble Lord, +late ambassador to this country, told me, that when he visited a young +and beautiful woman of fashion, (I think too it was a first visit after +marriage) she received him sitting up in her bed; and before he went, +her _fille de chambre_ brought his Lordship _Madame le Comtesse_'s shift +elegantly festooned, which his Lordship had the honour to put over the +Lady's head, as she sat in bed!--nor was there, by that favour, the +least indecency meant; it was a compliment intended; and, as such only, +received. Marks of favour of _that_ sort, are not marks of _further +favours_ from a French Lady. + +In this vast city of amusements, among the _other arts_, I cannot help +pointing out to your particular notice, _Richlieu_'s monument in the +_Sorbonne_, as an inimitable piece of modern sculpture[G] by +_Girardeau_; and _Madame la Valliere's_ full-length portrait by _le +Brun_: She was, you know, mistress to _Lewis_ the XIVth, but retired to +the convent, in which the picture now is, and where she lived in +repentance and sorrow above thirty years.[H] + + [G] VOLTAIRE says, this monument is not sufficiently noticed by + strangers. + + [H] MADAME VALLIERE, during her retirement, being told of the death + of one of her sons, replied, "I should rather grieve for his birth, + than his death." + +The _connoisseurs_ surely can find no reasonable fault with the +monumental artist; but they do, I think, with _le Brun_; the drapery, +they say, is too full, and that she is overcharged with garments; but +fulness of dress, adds not only dignity, but decency, to the person of +a fine woman, who meant (or the painter for her) to hide, not to expose +her charms. + +If fulness be a fault, it is a fault that _Gainsborough_, _Hoare_, +_Pine_, _Reynolds_, and many other of our modern geniuses are _guilty +of_; and if it be _sin_, the best judges will acquit them for committing +it, where dignity is to be considered. + +_Madame Valliere_ appears to have been scattering about her jewels, is +tearing her hair, crying, and looking up to the heavens, which seem +bursting forth a tempest over her head. The picture is well imagined, +and finely executed. + +I found upon the bulk of a _portable shop_ in _Paris_, a most excellent +engraving from this picture,[I] and which carried me directly to visit +the original; it is indeed stained and dirty, but it is infinitely +superior to a later engraving which now hangs up in all the print shops, +and I suppose is from the first plate, which was done soon after the +picture was finished. Under it are written the following ingenious, tho' +I fear, rather impious lines: + + Magdala dam gemmas, baccisque monile coruscum + Projicit, ac formae detrahit arma suae: + Dum vultum lacrymis et lumina turbat; amoris + Mirare insidias! hac capit arte Deum. + + [I] In the possession of Mr. GAINSBOROUGH. + +Shall I attempt to unfold this writer's meaning? Yes, I will, that my +friend at _Oxford_ may laugh, and do it as it ought to be done. + + I. + + The pearls and gems, her beauty's arms, + See sad VALLIERE foregoes; + And now assumes far other charms + Superior still to those. + + II. + + The tears that flow adown her cheek, + Than gems are brighter things; + For these an earthly Monarch seek, + But those the KING of Kings. + +This seems to have been the author's thought, if he thought +_chastely_.--Shall I try again? + + The pearls and gems her beauty's arms, + See sad VALLIERE foregoes: + Yet still those tears have other charms, + Superior far to those: + With those she gained an earthly Monarch's love: + With these she wins the KING of Kings above. + +Yet, after all, I do suspect, that the author meant more than even _to +sneer_ a little at _poor Madam Valliere_; but, as I dislike common-place +poetry, (and poetry, as you see, dislikes _me_) I will endeavour to give +you the literal meaning, according to my conception, and then you will +see whether our _joint wits_ jump together. + +While MAGDALENE throws by her bracelets, adorned with gems and pearls, +and (thus) disarms her beauty: while tears confound her countenance and +eyes, + + With wonder mark the stratagems of love, + With this she captivates the GOD above. + +The impious insinuation of the Latin lines, is the reason, I suppose, +why they were omitted under the more modern impression of this fine +print, and very middling French poetry superseding them. + + + + +LETTER LIII. + + +PARIS. + +If you do not use _Herreis_' bills, I recommend to you at _Paris_, a +French, rather than an English banker; I have found the former more +profitable, and most convenient. I had, ten years since, a letter of +credit on _Sir John Lambert_, for L300, from _Mess. Hoares_. The +_Knight_ thought proper, however, to refuse the payment of a twenty +pound draft I gave upon him; though I had not drawn more than half my +credit out of his hands. _Mons. Mary_, on whom I had a draft from the +same respectable house, this year will not do _such things_; but on the +contrary, be ready to serve and oblige strangers to the utmost of his +power: he speaks and writes English very well, and will prove an +agreeable and useful acquaintance to a stranger in _Paris_. His sister +too, who lives with him, will be no less so to the female part of your +family. His house is in _Rue Saint Sauveur_. + +The English bankers pay in silver, and it is necessary to take a +wheel-barrow with you to bring it away; a small bag will do at the +French bankers'. + +There is as much difference between the bankers of _London_ and bankers +in _Paris_, as between a rotten apple and a sound one. You can hardly +get a word from a London banker, but you are sure of getting your money; +in _Paris_, you will get _words_ enough, and civil ones too. Remember, +however, I am speaking only of the treatment I have experienced. There +may be, and are, no doubt, English bankers at _Paris_ of great worth, +and respectable characters. + +It is not reckoned very decent to frequent coffee-houses at _Paris_; but +the politeness of _Monsieur_ and _Madame Felix, au caffe de Conti_, +opposite the _Pont neuf_, and the English news-papers, render their +house a pleasant circumstance to me; and it is by much the best, and +best situated, of any in _Paris, au vois le monde_. + +I am astonished, that where such an infinite number of people live in so +small a compass, (for _Paris_ is by no means so large as _London_) that +they should suffer the dead to be buried in the manner they do, or +within the city. There are several burial pits in _Paris_, of a +prodigious size and depth, in which the dead bodies are laid, side by +side, without any earth being put over them till the ground tier is +full; then, and not till then, a small layer of earth covers them, and +another layer of dead comes on, till by layer upon layer, and dead upon +dead, the hole is filled with a mass of human corruption, enough to +breed a plague; these places are enclosed, it is true, within high +walls; but nevertheless, the air cannot be _improved_ by it; and the +idea of such an assemblage of putrifying bodies, in one grave, so thinly +covered, is very disagreeable. The burials in churches too, often prove +fatal to the priests and people who attend; but every body, and every +thing in _Paris_, is so much alive, that not a soul thinks about the +dead. + +I wish I had been born a Frenchman.--Frenchmen live as if they were +never to die. Englishmen die all _their lives_; and yet as _Lewis_ the +XIVth said, "I don't think it is so difficult a matter to die, as men +generally imagine, when they try in earnest." + +I must tell you before I leave _Paris_, that I stept over to _Marli_, to +see the Queen; I had seen the King nine years ago; but he was not then a +King over eight millions of people, and the finest country under the +sun; yet he does not seem to lay so much stress upon his mighty power as +might be expected from so young a prince, but appears grave and +thoughtful. I am told he attends much to business, and endeavours to +make his subjects happy. His resolution to be inoculated, immediately +after succeeding to such a kingdom, is a proof of his having a great +share of fortitude. In England such a determination would have been +looked upon with indifference; but in France, where the bulk of the +people do not believe that it secures the patient from a second attack; +where the clergy in general consider it unfavourable, even in a +religious light; and where the physical people, for want of practice, do +not understand the management of the distemper, so as it is known in +England; I may venture to say, without being charged with flattery, that +it was an heroic resolution: add to this, the King knowing, that if his +subjects followed his example, it must be chiefly done by their own +surgeons and physicians, he put himself under their management alone, +though I think _Sutton_ was then at _Paris_. + +The Queen is a fine figure, handsome, and very sprightly, dresses in +the present _gout_ of head dress, and without a handkerchief, and +thereby displays a most lovely neck. + +I saw in a china shop at _Paris_, the figure of the King and Queen +finely executed, and very like, in china: the King is playing on the +harp, and the Queen dropping her work to listen to the harmony. The two +figures, about a foot high, were placed in an elegant apartment, and the +_toute ensemble_ was the prettiest toy I ever beheld: the price thirty +guineas. + +I shall leave this town in a few days, and take the well-known and +well-beaten _route Anglois_ for _Calais_, thro' _Chantilly_, _Amiens_, +and _Boulogne_, and then I shall have twice crossed this mighty kingdom. + + + + +LETTER LIV. + + +CALAIS. + +I am now returned to the point from whence I sat out, and rather within +the revolution of one year; which, upon the whole, though I met with +many untoward circumstances, has been the most interesting and +entertaining year of my whole life, and will afford me matter of +reflection for the little which remains unfinished of that journey we +must all take sooner or later, a journey from whence no traveller +returns.--And having said so much of myself, I am sure you will be glad +to change the subject from man to beast, especially to such a one as I +have now to speak of. + +I told you, when I set out, that I had bought a handsome-looking English +horse for seven guineas, but a little touched in his wind; I can now +inform you, that when I left this town, he was rather thin, and had a +sore back and shoulder; both which, by care and caution; were soon +healed, and that he is returned fair and fat, and not a hair out of its +place, though he drew two grown persons, two children, (one of thirteen +the other ten years old) a very heavy French cabriolet, and all our +baggage, nay, almost all my goods, chattels, and worldly property +whatever, outward and homeward, except between _Cette_ and _Barcelona_, +_going_, and _Lyons_ and this town _returning!_ I will point out to you +one of his day's work, by which you will be able to judge of his general +power of working: At _Perpignan_, I had, to save him, hired post-horses +to the first town in Spain, as I thought it might be too much for him to +ascend and descend the _Pyrenees_ in one day; beside sixteen miles to +the foot of them, on this side, and three to _Jonquire_ on the other; +but after the horses were put to, the post-master required me to take +two men to _Boulou_, in order to hold the chaise, and to prevent its +overturning in crossing the river near the village. Such a flagrant +attempt to impose, determined me to take neither horses nor men; and at +seven o'clock I set off with _Callee_ (that is my houyhnhnm's name) and +arrived in three hours at _Boulou_, a paltry village, but in a situation +fit for the palace of AUGUSTUS! + +So far from wanting men from _Perpignan_ to conduct my chaise over the +river, the whole village were, upon our arrival, in motion after the +JOB. We, however, passed it, without any assistance but our own weight +to keep the wheels down, and the horse's strength and sturdiness, to +drag us through it. In about three hours more we passed over the summit +of this great chain of the universe; and in two more, arrived at +_Jonquire_: near which village my horse had a little bait of fresh mown +hay, the first, and last, he eat in that kingdom. And when I tell you +that this faithful, and (for a great part of my journey) only servant I +had, never made a _faux pas_, never was so tired, but that upon a pinch, +he could have gone a league or two farther; nor ever was ill, lame, +physicked, or bled, since he was mine; you will agree, that either he is +an uncommon good horse, or that his master is a good groom! Indeed I +will say that, however fatigued, wet, hundry, or droughty I was, I never +partook of any refreshment till my horse had every comfort the inn could +afford. I carried a wooden bowl to give him water, and never passed a +brook without asking him to drink.--And, as he has been my faithful +servant, I am now his; for he lives under the same roof with me, and +does nothing but eat, drink, and sleep.--As he never sees me nor hears +my voice, without taking some affectionate notice of me, I ventured to +ask him _tenderly_, whether he thought he should be able to draw two of +the same party next year to _Rome?_ No tongue could more plainly express +his willingness! he answered me, _in French_, indeed, _we-we-we-we-we_, +said he; so perhaps he might not be sincere, tho' he never yet deceived +me. If, however, he should not go, or should out-live me, which, is very +probable, my dying request to you will be, to procure him a peaceful +walk for the remainder of his days, within the park-walls of some humane +private gentleman; though I flatter myself the following petition will +save _you_ that trouble, and _me_ the concern of leaving him without +that comfort which his faithful services merit. + + + + +_To_ SIR JAMES TYLNEY LONG, _Bart._ + +_A Faithful Servant's humble Petition_, + + +SHEWETH, + +That your petitioner entered into the service of his present master, at +an advanced age, and at a time too, that he laboured under a pulmonic +disorder, deemed incurable; yet by gentle exercise, wholesome food, and +kind usage, he has been enabled to accompany his master from _Calais_ to +_Artois_. _Cambray_, _Rheims_, _St. Dezier_, _Dijon_, _Challons_, +_Macon_, _Lyons_, _Pont St. Esprit_, _Pont du Garde_, _Nismes_, +_Montpellier_, _Cette_, _Narbonne_, _Perpignan_ the _Pyrenees_ +_Barcelona_, _Montserrat_, _Arles_, _Marseilles_, _Toulouse_, _Avignon_, +_Aix_, _Valence_, _Paris_, and back to _Calais_, in the course of one +year: And that your petitioner has acquitted himself so much to his +master's satisfaction, that he has promised to take him next year to +_Rome_; and upon his return, to get him a _sine-cure_ place for the +remainder of his days; and, as your petitioner can produce a certificate +of his honesty, sobriety, steadiness, and obedience to his master; and +wishes to throw himself under the protection of a man of fortune, honour +and humanity, he is encouraged by his said master to make this his +humble prayer to you, who says that to above three hundred letters he +has lately written, to ask a small boon for himself, he did not receive +above three answers that gave him the pleasure your's did though he had +twenty times better pretensions to an hundred and fifty. And as your +petitioner has _seen a great deal of the world, as well as his master_, +and has always observed, that such men who are kind to their +fellow-creatures, are kind also to brutes; permit an humble brute to +throw himself at your feet, and to ask upon his return from _Rome_ a +_lean-to_ shed, under your park-wall, that he may end his days in his +native country, and afford a _repas_, at his death, to the dogs of a +Man who feeds the poor, cloaths the naked, and who knows how to make use +of the noblest privilege which a large fortune can bestow,--that of +softening the calamities of mankind, and making glad the hearts of those +who are oppressed with misfortunes.--Your petitioner, therefore, who has +never, been upon his _knees before_ to any man living, humbly prays that +he may be admitted within your park-pail, and that he may partake of +that bounty which you bestow in common to your own servants, who, by age +or misfortunes are past their labour; in which request your petitioner's +master impowers him to use his name and joint prayer with + + CALLEE. + +I do hereby certify, that nothing is advanced in the above petition, but +what is strictly true, and that if the petitioner had been able to +express himself properly, his merits and good qualities would have +appeared to much greater advantage, as well as his services; as he has +omitted many towns he attended his master to, besides a variety of +smaller journies; that he is cautious, wary, spirited, diligent, +faithful, and honest; that he is not nice, but eats, with appetite, and +good temper, whatever is set before him; and that he is in all respects +worthy of that asylum he asks, and which his master laments more on his +account than his own, that he cannot give him. + + PHILIP THICKNESSE. + + _Calais, the 4th of Nov._ + 1776. + + + + +LETTER LV. + +CALAIS. + + +On our way here, we spent two or three days at _Chantilly_, one, of +fifty _Chatteaus_ belonging to the PRINCE OF CONDE: for, though we had +visited this delightful place, two or three times, some years ago, yet, +beside its natural beauties, there is always something new. One spot we +found particularly pleasing, nay flattering to an Englishman; it is +called _l'Isle d'Amour_, in which there are some thatched cottages, a +water-mill, a garden, shrubbery, &c. in the English taste, and the whole +is, in every respect, well executed. The dairy is neat, and the milkmaid +not ugly, who has her little villa, as well as the miller. There is also +a tea-house, a billiard-room, an eating-room, and some other little +buildings, all externally in the English village stile, which give the +lawn, and serpentine walks that surround them, a very pastoral +appearance. The eating-room is particularly well fancied, being covered +within, and so painted as to produce a good idea of a close arbor; the +several windows, which are pierced through the sides, have such forms, +as the fantastic turn of the bodies of the painted trees admit of; and +the building is in a manner surrounded with natural trees; the room, +when illuminated for the Prince's supper, has not only a very pleasing +effect, but is a well executed deception, for the real trees falling +into perspective with those which are painted, through the variety of +odd-shaped windows, has a very natural, and consequently a very pleasing +effect; but what adds greatly to the deception, is, that at each corner +of the room the floor is opened, and lumps of earth thrown up, which +bear, in full perfection, a great variety of flowers and flowering +shrubs. We had the honour to be admitted while the Prince of _Conde_, +the Duke and Duchess of _Bourbon_, the Princess of _Monaco_, and two or +three other ladies and gentlemen were at supper; a circumstance which +became rather painful to us, as it seemed to occasion some to the +company, and particularly to the Prince, who inquired who we were, and +took pains to shew every sort of politeness he could to strangers he +knew nothing of. The supper was elegantly served on plate; but there +seemed to me too many servants round the table. The conversation was +very little, and very reserved. I do not recollect that I saw scarce a +smile during the whole time of supper. + +The Prince is a sprightly, agreeable man, something in person like _Lord +Barrington_; and the _Duke_ of _Bourbon_ so like his father, that it was +difficult to know the son from the father. + +The _Duchess_ of _Bourbon_ is young, handsome, and a most accomplished +lady. + +During the supper, a good band of music played; but it was all wind +instruments. Mr. _Lejeune_, the first bassoon, is a most capital +performer indeed. + +After the dessert had been served up about ten minutes, the Princess of +_Monaco_ rose from the table, as did all the company, and suddenly +turning from it, each lady and gentleman's servant held them a water +glass, which they used with great delicacy, and then retired. + +The Princess of _Monaco_ is separated from the Prince her husband; yet +she has beauty enough for any Prince in Europe, and brought fortune +enough for two or three. + +The Duchess of _Bourbon_ had rather a low head-dress, and without any +feather, or, that I could perceive, _rouge_; the Princess of _Monaco's_ +head-dress was equally plain; the two other ladies, whose rank I do not +recollect, wore black caps, and hats high dressed. There were eight +persons sat down to table, and I think, about twenty-five servants, in +and out of livery, attended. + +The next day, we were admitted to see the Prince's cabinet of natural +and artificial curiosities; and as I intimated my design of publishing +some account of my journey, the Prince was pleased to allow me as much +time as I chose, to examine his very large and valuable collection; +among which is a case of gold medallions,(72) of the Kings of France, in +succession, a great variety of birds and beasts, ores, minerals, +petrifactions, gems, cameos, &c. There is also a curious cabinet, lately +presented to the Prince by the King of Denmark; and near it stood a most +striking representation, in wax, of a present said to be _served up_ to +a late unfortunate Queen; it is the head and right hand of _Count +Struensee_, as they were taken off after the execution; the head and +hand lie upon a silver dish, with the blood and blood vessels too, well +executed; never surely was any thing so _sadly_, yet so finely done. I +defy the nicest eye, however near, to distinguish it (suppose the head +laid upon a pillow in a bed) from nature; nor must Mrs. _Wright_, or any +of the workers in wax I have ever yet seen, pretend to a tythe of the +perfection in that art, with the man who made this head.--Sad as the +subject is, I could not withstand the temptation of asking permission to +take a copy of it; and fortunately, I found the man who made it was then +at _Paris_,--nor has he executed his work for me less perfect than that +he made for the Prince.--I have been thus particular in mentioning this +piece of art, because, of the kind, I will venture to say, it is not +only _deadly_ fine, but one of the most perfect deceptions ever seen. + +When you, or any of the ladies and gentlemen who have honoured this poor +performance of mine with their names, or their family or friends, pass +this way, I shall be happy to embrace that occasion, to shew, that I +have not said more of this inimitable piece of art, than it merits; nor +do I speak thus positively from my own judgment, but have the concurrent +opinion of many men of unquestionable judgment, that it is a +master-piece of art; and among the rest, our worthy and valuable friend +Mr. _Sharp_, of the _Old Jewry_. + +Before we left _Chantilly_, we had a little concert, to which _my train_ +added one performer; and as it was the only string instrument, it was no +small addition. + +The day we left this charming place, we found the Prince and all his +company under tents and pavilions on the road-side, from whence they +were preparing to follow the hounds. + +At _Amiens_, there is in the _Hotel de Ville_, a little antique god in +bronze, which was found, about four years ago, near a Roman urn, in the +earth, which is very well worthy of the notice of a _connoisseur_; but +it is such as cannot decently be described; the person in whose custody +it is, permitted me to take an impression from it in wax; but I am not +_quite so good_ a hand at waxwork as the artist mentioned above, and yet +my little houshold-god has some merit, a merit too that was not +discovered till three months after it had been fixed in the _Hotel de +Ville_; and the discovery was made by a female, not a male, +_connoisseur_. + +It is said, that a Hottentot cannot be so civilized, but that he has +always a hankering after his savage friends, and _dried chitterlins_; +and, that gypsies prefer their roving life, to any other, a circumstance +that once did, but now no longer surprizes me; for I feel such a desire +to wander again, that I am impatient till the winter is past, when I +intend to visit _Geneva_, and make the tour of Italy; and if you can +find me cut a sensible valetudinarian or two, of either sex, or any +age, who will travel as we do, to see what is to be seen, to make a +little stay, where _the place_, or _the people_ invite us to do so, who +can dine on a cold partridge, in a hot day, under a shady tree; and +travel in a _landau and one_, we will keep them a _table d'hote_, that +shall be more pleasant than expensive, and which will produce more +health and spirits, than half the drugs of Apothecary's Hall. + +If God delights so much in variety, as all things animate and inanimate +sufficiently prove, no wonder that man should do so too: and I have now +been so accustomed to move, though slowly, that I intend to creep on to +my _journey's end_, by which means I may live to have been an inhabitant +of every town almost in Europe, and die, as I have lately (and wish I +had always) lived, a free citizen of the whole world, slave to no sect, +nor subject to any King. Yet, I would not be considered as one wishing +to promote that disposition in others; for I must confess, that it is in +England alone, where an innocent and virtuous man can sit down and enjoy +the blessings of liberty and his own chearful hearth, in full confidence +that no earthly power can disturb it; and the best reason which can be +offered in favour of Englishmen visiting other kingdoms, is, to enable +them, upon their return, to know how to enjoy the inestimable blessings +of their own. + + + + +LETTER LVI. + + +For what should I cross the streight which divides us, though it were +but _half_ seven leagues? we should only meet to part again, and +purchase pleasure, as most pleasures are purchased, too dearly; I have +dropt some heavy tears, (ideally at least) over poor BUCKLE'S[J] grave, +and it is all one to a man, now with GOD! on what King's soil such a +_tribute as that_ is paid: had some men of all nations known the +goodness of his heart as we did, some men of all nations would grieve as +we do. When I frequented _Morgan's_[K] I used him as a touch-stone, to +try the hearts of other men upon; for, as he was not rich, he was out of +the walk of knaves and flatterers, and such men, who were moot +prejudiced in his favour at first sight, and coveted not his company +after a little acquaintance, I always avoided as beings made of base +metal. It was for this reason I despised that ****** ****, (you know who +I mean) for you too have seen him _snarl_, _and bite_, _and play the +dog_, even to BUCKLE! + + [J] WILLIAM BUCKLE, Esq. + + [K] MORGAN'S Coffee-House, Grove, BATH. + +Our Sunday night's tea club, round his chearful hearth, is now for ever +dissolved, and SHARPE and RYE have administered their last friendly +offices with a potion of sorrow. + +Were I the hermit of _St. Catharine_, I would chissel his name as deeply +into one of my pine-heads, as his virtues are impressed on my memory. +Though I have lost _his guinea_, I will not lose his name; he looked +down with pity upon me when here; who can say he may not do so still? I +should be an infidel, did not a few such men as he _keep me back_. + +And now, my dear Sir, after the many trifling subjects in this very long +correspondence with you, I will avail myself of this good one, to close +it, on the noblest work of GOD, AN HONEST MAN. The loss of such a +friend, is sufficient to induce one to lay aside all pursuits, but that +of following his example, and to prepare to follow him. + +If you should ever follow me _here_, I flatter myself you will find, +that I have, to the best of my poor abilities, made such a sketch of +_men and things_ on this side of the water, that you will be able to +discover some likeness to the originals. A bad painter often hits the +general features, though he fall ever so short of the graces of +_Titian_, or the _Morbidezza_ of _Guido_. I am sure, therefore, you and +every man of candour, will make allowances for the many inaccuracies, +defects, &c. which I am sensible these letters abound with, tho' I am +incapable of correcting them. My journey, you know was not made, as most +travellers' are, to indulge in luxury, or in pursuit of pleasures, but +to soften sorrow, and to recover from a blow, which came from a mighty +hand indeed; but a HAND still MORE MIGHTY, has enabled me to resist it, +and to return in health, spirits, and with that peace of mind which no +_earthly power_ can despoil me of, and with that friendship and regard +for you, which will only cease, when I cease to be + + PHILIP THICKNESSE. + + _Calais, Nov. 4, + 1776._ + +P.S. I found _Berwick's_ regiment on duty in this town: it is commanded +by _Mons. le Duc de Fitz-James_, and a number of Irish gentlemen, my +countrymen, (for so I will call them.) You may easily imagine, that men +who possess the natural hospitality of their own country, with the +politeness and good-breeding of this, must be very agreeable +acquaintance in general: But I am bound to go farther, and to say, that +I am endeared to them by marks of true friendship. The King of France, +nor any Prince in Europe, cannot boast of troops better disciplined; nor +is the King insensible of their merit, for I have lately seen a letter +written by the King's command from _Comte de St. Germain_, addressed to +the officers of one of these corps, whereby it appears, that the King is +truly sensible of their distinguished merit; for braver men there are +not in any service:--What an acquisition to France! what a loss to +Britain! + +As the _Marquis_ of _Grimaldi_ is retired from his public character, I +am tempted to send you a specimen of his private one, which flattering +as it is to me, and honourable to himself, I should have withheld, had +his Excellency continued first minister of Spain; by which you will see, +that while my own countrymen united to set me in a suspicious light, +(though they thought otherwise) the ministers politeness and humanity +made them tremble at the duplicity of their conduct; and had I been +disposed to have acted the same sinister part they did, some of them +might have been reminded of an old Spanish proverb, + + "_A las malas lenguas tigeras_" + + "Muy S^or. mio. Por la carta de I^o del corr^te. veo su + feliz llegada a esta ciudad, en donde habia tomado una casa, y por + las cartas que me incluye, y debuelbo, reconosco los terminos + honrados y recomendables con que ha efectuado su salida de + Inglaterra, cosa que yo nunca podria dudar. + + "Deseo que a V.S. le va' ya muy bien en este Reyno, y espero que me + avifara el tiempo que se propusiere detener en Barcelona, y tambien + quando se verificara su yda a Valencia: cuyo Pais se ha creydo el mas + propio para su residencia estable, por la suavidad del clima y demas + circunstantias.--V.S. me hallara pronto a complacerle y sevirle en lo + que se le ofrezca: que es quendo en el dia puedo decirle, + referiendome ademas a mis cartas precedentes communicadas por medio + de ... Dios quiere a V.S. M^o c^o d^o S^r el 14 Nov^re. de 1775. + + "B L.M. en. S. + Su mayor fer^or. + El Marq^s de GRIMALDI, + _A Don Felipe Thickness_." + +_A Madame_ THICKNESSE. + +Voila, Madame, quelques amusemens de ma plume, vous avez paru les +desirer, mon empressement a vous obeir sera le merite de ces legeres +productions; la premiere a eu assez de succes en France, je doute +qu'elle puisse en avoir un pareil en Angleterre, parce que le mot n'a +peut-etre pas la meme signification ce que nous appellons Grelot est une +petite cochette fermee que l'on attache aux hochets des enfans pour les +amuser; dans le sens metaphysique on en fait un des attributs de la +folie: Ice je l'employe comme embleme de gaiete et d'enfance. Le Pritems +est une Epitre ecrite de la campagne a un de mes amis; j'etois sous le +charme de la creation, pour ainsi dire; les vers en font d'une +mesuretres difficile. + +La description de Courcelles est celle d'une terre qu'avoit ma mere, et +ou j'ai passe toute ma jeunesse; enchantee de son paysage, et de la vie +champetre que j'aime passion, je l'adressois a un honnete homme de +Rheims que j'appellois par plaisanterie mon Papa: ce que j'ai de +meilleur dans mon porte-feuille, ce sont des chansons pour mon mari; +comme je l'aime parfaitement mon coeur m'a servi de muse: mais cette +tendresse toujours si delicieuse aux interesses ne peut plaire a ceux +qui ne le sont pas. Quand j'auri l'honneur de vous revoir, Madame, je +vous communiquerai mon recueil, et vous jugerez. Recevez les hommages +respectueux de mon mari, et daignezfaire agreer nos voeux a Mons. +Tiennerse; je n'ai point encore recu les jolies poches, je pars demain +pour la campagne, et j'y resterai quinze jours; nous avons des chaleurs +cruelles, Messrs. les Anglois qui sont ici en souffrent beaucoup, j'ai +l'honneur d'etre avec le plus inviolable attachement, + + Madame, + Votre tres humble + et tres obeissante servante, + _De Courcelles Desjardins._ + 28 Juillet, 1776. + + +_Epitre au Grelot._ + + De la folie aimable lot + Don plus brillant que la richesse, + Et que je nommerai sagesse + Si je ne craignois le fagot, + C'est toi que je chante o Grelot! + Hochet heureux de tous les ages + L'homme est a toi des le maillot, + Mais dans tes nombreux appanages + Jamais tu ne comptas le sot: + De tes sons mitiges le sage + En tapinois se rejouit + Tandis que l'insense jouit + Du plaisir de faire tapage. + Plus envie que dedaigne + Par cette espece atrabilaire + Qui pense qu'un air refrogne + La met au dessus du vulgaire, + La privation de tes bienfaits + Seule fait naitre sa satyre; + Charmante idole du Francois + Chez lui reside ton empire: + Tes detracteurs font les pedans, + Les avares et les amans + De cette gloire destructive + Qui peuple l'infernale rive, + Et remplit l'univers d'exces. + L'ambitieux dans son delire + N'eprouve que de noirs acces, + Le genre-humain seroit en paix, + Si les conquerans savoient rire. + Contre ce principe evident + C'est en vain qu'un censeur declame, + Le mal ne se fait en riant. + Si de toi provient l'epigrame, + Son tour heureux ne'est que plaisant + Et ne nuit jamais qu'au mechant + Que sa conscience decele. + Nomme t-on la rose cruelle + Lorsqu'un mal-adroit la cueillant + Se blesse lui-meme au tranchant + De l'epine qu'avec prudence + Nature fit pour sa defense. + Tes simples et faciles jeux + Prolongent dit-on notre enfance + Censeur, que te faut-il de mieux! + Des abus, le plus dangereux, + Le plus voisin de la demence + Est de donner trop d'importance + A ces chimeres dont les cieux + Ont compose notre existence + Notre devoir est d'etre heureux + A moins de frais, a moins de voeux + De l'homme est toute la science. + Par tes sons toujours enchanteurs + Tu fais fuir la froide vieillesse + Ou plutot la couvrant de fleurs + Tu lui rends l'air de la jeunesse. + Du temps tu trompes la lenteur, + Par toi chaque heure est une fete + _Democrite_ fut ton Docteur + _Anacreon_ fut ton Prophete; + Tous deux pour sages reconnus, + L'un riant des humains abus + Te fit sonner dans sa retraite + L'autre chantant a la guingette + Te donna pour pomme a _Venus_ + Apres eux ma simple musette + T'offre ses accens ingenus + Charmant Grelot, sur ta clochette + Je veux moduler tous mes vers, + Sois toujours la douce amusette + Source de mes plaisirs divers + Heureux qui te garde en cachette + Et se passe l'univers. + + +_Le Printems._ + +Epitre a Mons. D---- + + + Deja dans la plaine + On ressent l'haleine + Du leger Zephir; + Deja la nature + Sourit au plaisir, + La jeune verdure + A l'eclat du jour + Oppose la teinte + Que cherit l'amour + Fuyant la contrainte, + Au pied des ormeaux; + Ma muse naive + Reprend ses pipeaux; + Sur la verte rive + Aux tendres echos + Elle dit ces mots. + + Volupte sure + Bien sans pareil! + O doux reveil + De la nature! + Que l'ame pure + Dans nos guerets + Avec yvresse + Voit tes attraits; + De la tendresse + Et de la paix + Les doux bienfaits + Sur toute espece + Vont s'epandant, + Et sont l'aimant + Dont la magie + Enchaine et lie + Tout l'univers + L'homme pervers + Dans sa malice + Ferme son coeur + A ces delices, + Et de l'erreur + Des gouts factices + Fait son bonheur + La noire envie + Fille d'orgueil, + Chaque furie + Jusqu'au circueil, + Tisse sa vie. + Les vains desirs + Les vrais plaisirs + Sont antipodes; + A ces pagodes + Culte se rend, + L'oeil s'y meprend + Et perd de vue + Felicite, + La Deite + La plus courue + La moins connue + Simple reduit + Et solitaire + Jadis construit + Par le mystere + Est aujourd'hui + Sa residencei + La bienveillance. + Au front serein + De la deesse + Est la Pretresse; + Les ris badins + Sont sacristains, + Joyeux fidelles, + De fleurs nouvelles + Offrent les dons. + Tendres chansons + Tribut du Zele, + Jointes au sons + De Philomele, + De son autel + Sont le rituel + Dans son empire + Telle est la loi, + "Aimer et rire + De bonne foy." + Cet Evangile + Peu difficile + Du vrai bonheur + Seroit auteur + Si pour apotre + Il vous avoit; + En vain tout autre + Le precheroit. + La colonie + Du double mont + Du vraie genie + Vous a fait don, + Sans nul caprice + Entrez en lice, + Et de Passif + Venant actif + Pour la Deesse + Enchanteresse + Qui dans ces lieux + Nous rend heureux + Donnez moi rose + Nouvelle eclose: + Du doux Printems + Hatez le tems + Il etincelle + En vos ecrits, + Qu'il renouvelle + Mes Esprits. + Adieu beau Sire, + Pour ce delire + Le sentiment + Est mon excuse. + S'il vous amuse + Un seul moment, + Et vous rapelle + Un coeur fidelle + Depuis cent ans, + Comme le votre + En tous les tems + N'ai desir autre. + + + + +FABLE + + +_Les Aquilons et l'Oranger._ + + De fougeux Aquilons une troupe emportee + Contre un noble Oranger exhaloit ses fureurs + Ils soufflerent en vain, leur rage mutinee + De l'arbre aux fruits dores n'ota que quelques fleurs. + + +MADRIGAL + + Du tumulte, du bruit, des vaines passions + Fuyons l'eclat trompeur: a leurs impressions + Preferons les douceurs de ce sejour paisible, + Disoit un jour _Ariste_ a la tendre _Delos_. + Soit, repart celle-ci; mais las! ce doux repos + N'est que le pis-aller d'une ame trop sensible. + + +QUATRAIN + + Telle que ce ruisseau qui promene son onde + Dans des lieux ecartes loin du bruit et du monde + Je veux pour peu d'amis exister desormais + C'est loin des faux plaisirs que l'on trouve les vrais. + + +REVERIE SUR UNE LECTURE. + + Aux froids climats de l'ourse, et dans ceux du midi, + L'homme toujours le meme est vain, foible, et credule, + Sa devise est partout _Sottise et Ridicule_. + Le celebre Chinois, le Francois etourdi + De la raison encore n'ont que le crepuscule + Jadis au seul hazard donnant tout jugement, + Par les effets cuisans du fer rougi qui brule + On croyoit discerner le foible et l'innocent; + A Siam aujourd'hui pareille erreur circule, + Et l'on voit meme esprit sous une autre formule: + Quand quelque fait obscur tient le juge en suspens + On fait aux yeux de tous a chaque contendant + D'Esculape avaler purgative pillule, + Celui dont l'estomac repugne a pareil mets + Est repute coupable et paye tous les frais. + Du pauvre genre-humain telles sont les annales: + Rome porta le deuil de l'honneur des vestales, + Du Saint Pere a present, elle baise l'ergot: + Plus gais, non plus senses dans ce siecle falot + Nous choisissons au moins l'erreur la plus jolie: + De l'inquisition, le bal, la comedie + Remplacent parmi nous le terrible fagot; + Notre legerete detruit la barbarie + Mais nous n'avons encore que change de folie. + + +ENVOI A MON MARI. + + Tandis, mon cher, que tes travaux + Me procurent ce doux repos. + Et cette heureuse insouciance + But incertain de l'opulence; + Mon ame l'abeille imitant + Aux pays d'esprit elancee + Cueille les fleurs de la pensee + Et les remet aux sentiment. + Mais helas! dans ce vaste champ + En vain je cherche la sagesse, + Pres de moi certain Dieu fripon + Me fait quitter l'ecole de _Zenon_ + Pour le charme de la tendresse; + "L'homme est cree pour etre bon + Et non savant, dit il, qu'il aime, + Du bonheur c'est le vrai systeme" + Je sens, ma foi, qu'il a raison. + + + + +DESCRIPTION + +_De la terre dans laquelle j'habitois, adressee a un homme tres +respectable que j'appellois mon Papa._ + + +Que vous etes aimable, mon cher Papa, de me demander une description de +ma solitude. Votre imagination est genee de ne pouvoir se la peindre. +Vous voulez faire de _Courcelles_ une seconde etoile du matin, et y lier +avec moi un de ces commerces d'ames reserves aux favoris de Brama. Votre +idee ne me perdra plus de vue, j'en ferai mon genie tutelaire. Je +croirai a chaque instant sentir sa presence, ah! elle ne peut trop tot +arriver, montrons lui donc le chemin. + + Quittant votre cite Rhemoise, + Ville si fertil en bons Vins, + En gras moutons, en bons humains, + Apres huit fois trois mille toises + Toujours suivant le grand chemin, + On decouvre enfin le village + Ou se trouve notre hermitage. + La rien aux yeux du voyageur + Ne presente objet de surprise, + Petit ruisseau, des maisons, une Eglise + Tout a cote la hutte du Pasteur; + Car ces Messieurs pour quelques Patenotres. + Pour un surplis, pour un vetement noir + En ce monde un peu plus qu'en l'autre + Ont droit pres du bon dieu d'etablir leur manoir. + +Ce debut n'est pas fort seduisant; aussi ne vous ai-je rien promis de +merveilleux. Je pourrois cependant pour embellir ma narration me perdre +dans de brillantes descriptions, et commencer par celle de notre +clocher; mais malheureusement nous n'en avons point; car je ne crois pas +que l'on puisse appeller de ce nom l'endroit presque souterrain ou +logent trois mauvaises cloches. Elles m'etourdissent par fois au point +que sans leur bapteme, je les enverrois aux enfers sonner les diners de +_Pluton_ et de _Proserpine_. + +On appercoit pres de l'Eglise, entre elle et le cure, une petite fenetre +grillee, ceci est une vraie curiosite; c'est un sepulcre bati par +_Saladin d'Anglure_, ancien Seigneur de _Courcelles_ il vivoit du tems +des croisades, et donna comme les autres dans la manie du siecle. Il ne +fut pas plus heureux que ses confreres. Son sort fut d'etre prisonnier +du vaillant Saladin dont il conserva le surnom. Sa captivite l'ennuyant, +il fit voeu, si elle finissoit bientot, de batir dans sa Seigneurie un +sepulcre, et un calvaire a meme distance l'un de l'autre qu'ils le sont +a Jerusalum. C'est aussi ce qu'il fit. + + Quand par une aventure heureuse, + Des fers du Vaillant _Saladin_ + Il revint chez lui sauf et sain; + Mais la chronique scandaleuse + Qui daube toujours le prochain, + Et ne se repait que de blame + Pretend que trop tot pour Madame, + Et trop tard pour le Pelerin + Dans son Chatel il s'en revint. + Ce fut, dit on, le lendemain, + La veille, ou le jour que la Dame, + Croyant son mari tres benin + Parti pour la gloire eternelle + Venoit de contracter une hymenee nouvelle. + +La tradition etoit en balance sur ces trois dates; mais la malignite +humaine a donne la preference a la derniere, ensorte qu'il paroit tres +sur que l'Epoux n'arriva que le lendemain. + + Quel affront pour un chef couronne de lauriers! + Tel est pourtant le sort des plus fameux guerriers; + Ceux d'aujourd'hui n'en font que rire + Mais ceux du tems passe mettoient la chose au pis, + Ils n'avoient pas l'esprit de dire + Nous sommes quitte, et bons amis. + +Pendant que vous etes en train de visiter nos antiquites courcelloises, +il me prend envie de vous faire entrer dans notre reduit. + + Quoique du titre de chateau, + Pompeusement on le decore, + Ne vous figurez pas qu'il soit vaste ni beau. + Tel que ces Grands que l'on honore + Pour les vertus de leurs ayeux + Pour tout merite il n'a comme eux + Qu'un nom qui se conserve encore. + +Ainsi pour vous en former une juste idee, ne cherchez votre modele ni +dans les romans, ni dans les miracles de feerie. Ce n'est pas meme un +vieux chateau fort, comme il en existe encore quelques uns dans nos +entours. + + Point, on n'y voit fosse ni bastion + Ni demi-lune ni Dongeon, + Ni beaux dehors de structure nouvelle, + Mais bien une antique Tourelle + Flanquant d'assez, vieux batimens + Dont elle est l'unique ornement. + +Un Poete de nos cantons a dit assez plaisamment en parlant de ceci. + + Sur les bords de la Vesle est un chateau charmant + N'allez pas chicaner, Lecteur impertinent) + (Le batiment a part, la Dame qui l'habite + Par ses rares vertus en fait tout le merite. + Vous verrez tout-a l'heure s'il avoit raison. + +Je ne m'arreterai point a vous peindre la ferme quoi qu'elle tienne au +chateau, ni l'attirail des animaux de toute espece qu'elle renferme. + + Ces spectacles vraiment rustiques + Offrent pourtant plus de plaisirs + A des regards philosophiques, + Que ce que l'art et les desirs + De notre insatiable espece + Inventent tous les jours aides par la mollesse. + +Je vous ferai entrer tout de suite dans une grande cour de gazon ou +effectivement je voudrois bien vous voir. Deux manieses de Perrons y +conduisent, l'un aux appartemens, l'autre a la cuisine. Commencons par +ce dernier quoique ce ne soit pas trop la coutume. + + La chaque jour, tant bien que mal, + On apprete deux fois un repas tres frugal, + Mais que l'appetit assaisonne. + Loin, bien loin, ces bruyans festins, + Toujours suivis des medecins + Ou le poison dans cent ragouts foisonne + Nous aimons mieux peu de mets bien choisis + De la Sante, moins de plats, plus de ris. + +Voila notre devise, mon cher Papa, je crois qu'elle est aussi la votre; +notre rez de chaussee consiste en cuisine, office, salle a manger, +chambre et cabinets, rien de tout cela n'est ni elegant ni commode. + + Nos devanciers fort bonnes gens + N'entendoient rien aux ornemens + Et leurs desirs ne passoient guere + Les bornes du seul necessaire. + +Ils etoient plus heureux et plus sages que nous, car la vraie sagesse +n'est autre chose que la moderation des desirs. D'apres cette +definition on pourroit, je crois, loger tout notre siecle aux petites +maisons. Ce qu'il y a de plus agreable dans la notre est la vue du grand +chemin. + + De ce chemin ou chacun trotte + Ou nous voyons soirs et matins + Passer toute espece d'humains; + Tantot la gent portant calote, + Et tantot de jeunes plumets, + Les ruses disciples d'Ignace + Puis ceux de la grace efficace, + Des pietons, des cabriolets + Tant d'Etres a deux pieds, sots, et colifichets, + Enfin cent sortes d'equipages + Et mille sortes de visages. + +Ce tableau mouvant est par fois fort recreatif, il me paroit assez +plaisant d'y juger les gens sur la mine, et de deviner leur motif, et le +sujet de leurs courses. + + Mais, Papa, qu'il est consolant + Voyant leurs soins et leur inquietude + De jouir du repos constant + Qu'on goute dans la solitude. + +A dire vrai, le spectacle du grand chemin, est celui qui m'occupe le +moins; j'aime mille fois mieux nos promenades champetres; avant de yous +y conduire, il faut en historien fidelle vous rendre compte de notre +chaumiere. + +Vous croyez peut-etre trouver un premier etage au dessus de la facade +dont je vous ai parle? Point du tout. Ne vous ai-je pas dit que nos +peres preferoient l'utile a l'agreable: aussi ont ils mieux aime +construire de grands greniers que de jolis appartemens; mais en revanche +ils out jette quantite de petites mansardes sur un autre cote du logis. +Ce dernier donne sur un verger qui fait mes delices, il est precede d'un +petit parterre, et finit par un bois charmant. + + Une onde toujours claire et pure + Y vient accorder souo murmure + Au son melodieux de mille et mille oiseaux + Que cachent en tous tems nos jeunes arbrisseaux. + +C'est la que votre fille se plait a rever a vous, mon cher Papa, c'est +dans ce reduit agreable qu'elle s'occupe tour a tour de morale et de +tendresse. + + +_Epictete, Pope, Zenon._ + + Et _Socrate_, et surtout l'ingenieux _Platon_, + Viennent dans ces lieux solitaires + Me preter le secours de leurs doctes lumieres: + Mais plus souvent la soeur de l'enfant de Cypris + Ecartant sans respect cette foule de sages + + Occupe seule mes esprits + En y gravant de mes amis + Les trop seduisantes images. + +Je n'entreprendrai pas de vous peindre nos autres promenades, elles sont +toutes charmantes; un paysage coupe, quantite de petits bosquets, mille +jolis chemins, nous procurent naturellement des beautes auxquelles l'art +ne sauroit atteindre. + + La Vesle borde nos prairies + Sur sa rive toujours fleurie + Regne un doux air de bergerie + Dangereux pour les tendres coeurs. + La, qui se sent l'ame attendrie + S'il craint de l'amour les erreurs + Doit vite quitter la partie. + +Quittons la donc, mon cher Papa; aussi bien ai-je seulement oublie de +vous montrer la plus piece de l'hermitage. C'est un canal superbe. Il a +cent vingt toises de long sur douze de large, une eau courante et +crystalline en rend la surface toujours brillante, cest la digne embleme +d'un coeur ami, jugez si cette vue me fait penser a vous. + +De grands potagers terminent l'enclos de la maison. Si j'etois mechante +je continuerois ma description, et ne vous ferois pas grace d'une +laitue, mais je me contenteraide vous dire que le ciel fit sans doute ce +canton pour des Etres broutans. Si les Israelites en eussent mange +jadis, ils n'auroient ni regrette l'Egypte ni desire la terre promise. + +Voila mon cher Papa une assez mauvaize esquisse du pays Courcellois. + + L'air m'en seroit plus doux et le ciel plus serein + Si quelque jour, moins intraitable + Et se laissant flechir, le farouche Destin + Y conduisoit ce _trio_ tant aimable + Que j'aime, et cherirai sans fin + Mais las! j'y perds tout mon latin, + Et ce que de mieux je puis faire + Est d'esperer et de me taire + + * * * * * + +I should have stopt here, and finished my present correspondence with +you by leaving your mind harmonized with the above sweet stanzas of +_Madame des Jardins_, but that it may seem strange, to give a specimen +of one French Lady's literary talents, without acknowledging, that this +kingdom abounds with many, of infinite merit.--While England can boast +only of about half a dozen women, who will immortalize their names by +their works, France can produce half an hundred, admired throughout +Europe, for their wit, genius, and elegant compositions.--Were I to +recite the names and writings only of female authors of eminence, which +France has produced, since the time of the first, and most unfortunate +_Heloise_, who died in 1079, down to _Madame Riccoboni_, now living, it +would fill a volume. We have, however, a CARTER, and a BARBAULD, not +less celebrated for their learning and genius than for their private +virtues; and I think it may, with more truth be said of women, than of +men, that the more knowledge, the more virtue; the more understanding, +the less courage. Why then is the _plume elevated to the head_? and what +must the present mode of female education and manners end in, but in +more ignorance, dissipation, debauchery and luxury? and, at length, in +national ruin. Thus it was at ROME, the mistress of the world; they +became fond of the most vicious men, and such as meant to enslave them, +who corrupted their hearts, by humouring and gratifying their follies, +and encouraging, on all sides, idleness and dissolute manners, blinded +by CAESAR's complaisance; from his _almsmen_, they became his _bondmen_; +he charmed them in order to enslave them. When the tragedy of _Tereus_ +was acted at ROME, _Cicero_ observed, what plaudits the audience gave +with their hands at some severe strokes in it against tyranny; but he +very justly lamented, that they employed their hands, _only in the +Theatre_, not in defending that liberty which they seemed so fond of. + + + + +And now, as BAYES says, "let's have a Dance." ---- + + + + +GENERAL HINTS + +TO + +STRANGERS + +WHO + +TRAVEL IN FRANCE. + + + + +GENERAL HINTS, &c. + + +I. + +If you travel post, when you approach the town, or bourg where you +intend to lie, ask the post-boy, which house he recommends as the best? +and never go to that, if there is any other.--Be previously informed +what other inns there are in the same place. If you go according to the +post-boy's recommendation, the aubergiste gives him two or three livres, +which he makes you pay the next morning. I know but one auberge between +_Marseilles_ and _Paris_, where this is not a constant practice, and +that is at _Vermanton_, five leagues from _Auxerre_, where every English +traveller will find a decent landlord, _Monsieur Brunier_, _a St. +Nicolas_; good entertainment, and no imposition, and consequently an +inn where no post-boy will drive, if he can avoid it. + + +II. + +If you take your own horses, they must be provided with head-pieces, and +halters; the French stables never furnish any such things; and your +servant must take care that the _Garcon d'Ecurie_ does not buckle them +so tight, that the horses cannot take a full bite, this being a common +practice, to save hay. + + +III. + +If the _Garcon d'Ecurie_ does not bring the halters properly rolled up, +when he puts your horses to, he ought to have nothing given him, because +they are so constantly accustomed to do it, that they cannot forget it, +_but in hopes you may too_. + + +IV. + +Direct your servant, not only to see your horses watered, and corn given +them, but to _stand by_ while they eat it: this is often necessary in +England, and always in France. + + +V. + +If you eat at the _table d'Hote_, the price is fixed, and you cannot be +imposed upon. If you eat in your own chamber, and order your own dinner +or supper, it is as necessary to make a previous bargain with your host +for it, as it would be to bargain with an itinerant Jew for a gold +watch; the _conscience_ and _honour_ of a _French Aubergiste_, and a +travelling Jew, are always to be considered alike; and it is very +remarkable, that the publicans in France, are the only people who +receive strangers with a cool indifference! and where this indifference +is most shewn, there is most reason to be cautious. + + +VI. + +Be careful that your sheets are well aired, otherwise you will find them +often, not only damp, but perfectly wet.--Frenchmen in general do not +consider wet or damp sheets dangerous, I am sure French _Aubergistes_ +do not. + + +VII. + +Young men who travel into France with a view of gaining the language, +should always eat at the _table d'Hote_.--There is generally at these +tables, an officer, or a priest, and though there may be none but people +of a middling degree, they will shew every kind of attention and +preference to a stranger. + + +VIII. + +It is necessary to carry your own pillows with you; in some inns they +have them; but in villages, _bourgs_, &c. none are to be had. + + +IX. + +In the wine provinces, at all the _table d'Hotes_, they always provide +the common wine, as we do small beer; wine is never paid for separately, +unless it is of a quality above the _vin du Pays_; and when you call +for better, know the price _before_ you drink it. + + +X. + +When fine cambrick handkerchiefs, &c. are given to be washed, take care +they are not trimmed round two inches narrower, to make borders to +_Madame la Blanchisseuse's_ night caps: this is a little _douceur_ which +they think themselves entitled to, from my Lord _Anglois_, whom they are +sure is _tres riche_, and consequently ought to be plundered by the +poor. + + +XI. + +Whenever you want honest information, get it from a French officer, or a +priest, provided they are on the _wrong_ side of forty; but in general, +avoid all acquaintance with either, on the _right_ side of thirty. + + +XII. + +Where you propose to stay any time, be very cautious with whom you make +an acquaintance, as there are always a number of officious forward +Frenchmen, and English adventurers, ready to offer you their services, +from whom you will find it very difficult to disengage yourself, after +you have found more agreeable company.--Frenchmen of real fashion, are +very circumspect, and will not _fall in love with you_ at first sight; +but a designing knave will exercise every species of flattery, in order +to fix himself upon you for his dinner, or what else he can get, and +will be with you before you are up, and after you are in bed. + + +XIII. + +Wherever there is any cabinet of curiosities, medals, pictures, &c. to +be seen, never make any scruple to send a card, desiring permission to +view them; the request is flattering to a Frenchman, and you will never +be refused; and besides this you will in all probability thereby gain a +valuable acquaintance.--It is generally men of sense and philosophy, who +make such collections, and you will find the collector of them, +perhaps, the most pleasing part of the cabinet. + + +XIV. + +Take it as a maxim, unalterable as the laws of the Medes and Persians, +that whenever you are invited to a supper at _Paris_, _Lyons_, or any of +the great cities, where a _little_ trifling play commences before +supper, that GREAT PLAY is intended after supper; and that you are the +marked pigeon to be plucked. Always remember _Lord Chesterfield's_ +advice to his son: "If you play with men, know with _whom_ you play; if +with women, for _what_:" and don't think yourself the more secure, +because you see at the same table some of your own countrymen, though +they are Lords or Ladies; a _London_ gambler would have no chance in a +_Parisian_ party. + + +XV. + +Dress is an essential and most important consideration with every body +in France. A Frenchman never appears till his hair is well combed and +powdered, however slovenly he may be in other respects.--Not being able +to submit every day to this ceremony, the servant to a gentleman of +fashion at whose house I visited in _Marseilles_, having forgot my name +described me to his master, as the gentleman whose hair was _toujours +mal frise_.--Dress is a foolish thing, says _Lord Chesterfield_; yet it +is a foolish thing not to be well dressed. + + +XVI. + +You cannot dine, or visit after dinner, in an undress frock, or without +a bag to your hair; the hair _en queue_, or a little cape to your coat, +would be considered an unpardonable liberty. Military men have an +advantage above all others in point of dress, in France; a regimental or +military coat carries a man with a _bonne grace_ into all companies, +with or without a bag to his hair; it is of all others the properest +dress for a stranger in France, on many accounts. + + +XVII. + +In France it is not customary to drink to persons at table, nor to drink +wine after dinner: when the dessert is taken away, so is the wine;--an +excellent custom, and worthy of being observed by all nations. + + +XVIII. + +It is wrong to be led into any kind of conversation, but what is +absolutely necessary, with the common, or indeed the middling class of +people in France. They never fail availing themselves of the least +condescension in a stranger, to ask a number of impertinent questions, +and to conclude, you answer them civilly, that they are your +equals.--Sentiment and bashfulness are not to be met with, but among +people of rank in France: to be free and easy, is the etiquette of the +country; and some kinds of that free and easy manner, are highly +offensive to strangers, and particularly to a shy Englishman. + + +XIX. + +When well-bred people flatter strangers, they seldom direct their +flattery to the object they mean to compliment, but to one of their own +country:--As, what a _bonne grace_ the English have, says one to the +other, in a whisper loud enough to be heard by the whole company, who +all give a nod of consent; yet in their hearts they do not love the +English of all other nations, and therefore conclude, that the English +in their hearts do not love them. + + +XX. + +No gentleman, priest, or servant, male or female, ever gives any notice +by knocking before they enter the bed-chamber, or apartment of ladies or +gentlemen.--The post-man opens it, to bring your letters; the capuchin, +to ask alms; and the gentleman to make his visit. There is no privacy, +but by securing your door by a key or a bolt; and when any of the +middling class of people have got possession of your apartment, +particularly of a stranger, it is very difficult to get them out. + + +XXI. + +There is not on earth, perhaps, so curious and inquisitive a people as +the lower class of French: noise seems to be one of their greatest +delights. If a ragged boy does but beat a drum or sound a trumpet, he +brings all who hear it about him, with the utmost speed, and most +impatient curiosity.--As my monkey rode postillion, in a red jacket +laced with silver, I was obliged to make him dismount, when I passed +thro' a town of any size: the people gathered so rapidly about me at +_Moret_, three leagues from _Fontainbleau_, while I stopped only to buy +a loaf, that I verily believe every man, woman, and child, except the +sick and aged, were paying their respects to my little groom; all +infinitely delighted; for none offered the least degree of rudeness. + + +XXII. + +The French never give coffee, tea, or any refreshment, except upon +particular occasions, to their morning or evening visitors. + + +XXIII. + +When the weather is cold, the fire small, and a large company, some +young Frenchman shuts the whole circle from receiving any benefit from +it, by placing himself just before it, laying his sword genteely over +his left knee, and flattering himself, while all the company wish him at +the devil, that the ladies are admiring his legs: when he has gratified +his vanity, or is thoroughly warm, he sits down, or goes, and another +takes his place. I have seen this abominable ill-breeding kept up by a +set of _accomplished_ young fops for two hours together, in exceeding +cold weather. This custom has been transplanted lately into England. + + +XXIV. + +Jealousy is scarce known in France; by the time the first child is +born, an indifference generally takes place: the husband and wife have +their separate acquaintance, and pursue their separate _amusements_, +undisturbed by domestic squabbles: when they meet in the evening, it is +with perfect good humour, and in general, perfect good breeding.--When +an English wife plays truant, she soon becomes abandoned: it is not so +with the French; they preserve appearances and proper decorum, because +they are seldom attached to any particular man. While they are at their +toilet, they receive the visits of their male acquaintance, and he must +be a man of uncommon discernment, who finds out whom it is she prefers +at that time.--In the southern parts of France, the women are in general +very _free_ and _easy_ indeed. + + +XXV. + +It is seldom that virgins are seduced in France; the married women are +the objects of the men of gallantry. The seduction of a young girl is +punished with death; and when they fall, it is generally into the arms +of their confessor,--and that is seldom disclosed. Auricular confession +is big with many mischiefs, as well as much good. Where the penitent and +the confessor happen both to be young, he makes her confess not only all +her sins, but sinful thoughts, and then, I fear he knows more than his +prudence can absolve _decently_, and even when the confessor is old, the +penitent may not be out of danger. + + +XXVI. + +Never ask a Frenchman his age; no question whatever can be more +offensive to him, nor will he ever give you a direct, though he may a +civil answer.--_Lewis_ the XVth was always asking every man about him, +his age. A King may take that liberty, and even then, it always gives +pain.--_Lewis_ the XIVth said to _Comte de Grammont_, "_Je sais votre +age, l'Eveque de Senlis qui a 84 ans, m'a donne pour epoque, que vous +avez etudie ensemble dans la meme classe_." _Cet Eveque, Sire_, (replied +the _Comte,) n'accuse pas juste, car ni lui, ni moi n'avons jamais +Etudie_.--Before I knew how offensive this question was to a Frenchman, +I have had many equivocal answers,--such as, _O! mon dieu_, as old as +the town, or, I thank God, I am in good health, &c. + + +XXVII. + +A modern French author says, that the French language is not capable of +the _jeux de mots_. _Les jeux de mots_, are not, says he, in the genius +_de notre langue, qui est grave, de serieuse_. Perhaps it maybe so; but +the language, and the men, are then so different, that I thought quite +otherwise,--though the following beautiful specimen of the seriousness +of the language ought, in some measure; to justify his remark: + + Un seul est frappe, & tous sont delivres, + Dieu frappe sons fils innocent, pour l'amour + Des hommes coupables, & pardonne aux hommes + Coupables, pour l'amour de son fils innocent. + + +XXVIII. + +All English women, as well as women of other nations, prefer France to +their own country; because in France there is much less restraint on +their actions, than there is, (should I not say, than there _was_?) in +England. All Englishmen, however, who have young and beautiful wives, +should, if they are not indifferent about their conduct, avoid a trip to +_Paris_, &c. tho' it be but for "_a six weeks tour_." She must be good +and wise too, if six weeks does not corrupt her mind and debauch her +morals, and that too by her own sex, which is infinitely the most +dangerous company. A French woman is as great an adept at laughing an +English-woman into all contempt of fidelity to her husband, as married +English-women are in general, in preparing them during their first +pregnancy, for the touch of a man-midwife,--and both from the same +motive; _i.e._ to do, as they have done, and bring all the sex upon a +level. + + +XXIX. + +The French will not allow their language to be so difficult to speak +properly, as the English language; and perhaps they are in the right; +for how often do we meet with Englishmen who speak French perfectly? how +seldom do we hear a Frenchman speak English without betraying his +country by his pronunciation? It is not so with the Spaniards; I +conversed with two Spaniards who were never twenty miles from +_Barcelona_, that spoke English perfectly well.--How, for instance, +shall a Frenchman who cannot pronounce the English, be able to +understand, (great as the difference is) what I mean when I say _the sun +is an hour high_? May he not equally suppose that I said _the sun is in +our eye_? + + +XXX. + +When you make an agreement with an _aubergiste_ where you intend to lie, +take care to include beds, rooms, &c. or he will charge separately for +these articles. + + +XXXI. + +After all, it must be confessed, that _Mons. Dessein's a l'Hotel +d'Angleterre_ at _Calais_, is not only the first inn strangers of +fashion generally go to, but that it is also the first and best inn in +France. _Dessein_ is the decoy-duck, and ought to have a salary from the +French government: he is always sure of a good one from the English. + + +XXXII. + +In frontier or garrison towns, where they have a right to examine your +baggage, a twenty-four _sols_ piece, and assuring the officer that you +are a gentleman, and not a merchant, will carry you through without +delay. + + +XXXIII. + +Those who travel post should, before they set out, put up in parcels the +money for the number of horses they use for one post, two posts, and a +post _et demi_, adding to each parcel, that which is intended to be +given to the driver, or drivers, who are intitled by the King's +ordinance to five _sols_ a post; and if they behave ill, they should be +given no more; when they are civil, ten or twelve _sols_ a post is +sufficient. If these packets are not prepared, and properly marked, the +traveller, especially if he is not well acquainted with the money, +cannot count it out while the horses are changing, from the number of +beggars which surround the carriage and who will take no denial. + + +XXXIV. + +People of rank and condition, either going to, or coming from the +continent, by writing to PETER FECTOR, Esq; at _Dover_, will find him a +man of property and character, on whom they may depend. + + +LASTLY, + +Valetudinarians, or men of a certain age, who travel into the southern +parts of France, Spain, or Italy, should never omit to wear either a +callico or fine flannel waistcoat under their shirts: strange as it may +seem to say so, this precaution is more necessary in the south of +France, than in England. In May last it was so hot at _Lyons_, on the +side of the streets the sun shone on, and so cold on the shady side, +that both were intolerable. The air is much more _vif_ and penetrating +in hot climates, than in cold. A dead dog, thrown into the streets of +Madrid at night, will not have a bit of flesh upon his bones after it +has been exposed to that keen air twenty-four hours. + +FINIS. + + + +[List of possible typos or transcriber changes:] + +Ltr. 34 para. 2: monnments [monuments?] + +Several inscriptions were blurred or missing in this source. Educated +guesses were made in a few cases. + +Ltr. 36: This is what was visible to the transcriber: + + L DOMIT. DOMITIANI + EX TRIERARCHI CLASS. GERM. + D PECCO****A VALENTINA M + CO*****ENTISSIMA. + +Some characters blurred or missing. The full transcription was +entered from other sources. + +Some of this looks wrong--e.g. the third line should probably begin P F, +rather than PE--but it matches the text as printed. + +Ltr. 52 para. 2: Typo: that [than?] + +Ltr. 54 para. 3: Typo: hundry [hungry?] + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND +PART OF SPAIN, VOLUME II (OF 2)*** + + +******* This file should be named 16994.txt or 16994.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/9/9/16994 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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